:s'.v, : > jo P^c^F * ^ THE UNIVERSITY OF CUIFORNU LIBRARY OF THE UHIYERSITY OF CALIFORN THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORN! ^^^<>^^g THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNi ^^5vC^^^ F THE UNIVERSITY OF CAllFORNIt IIBRJIRV OF THE UHiyERSITr OF CUIFBRI MMM&y^^^ ' THE UmVERSnY OF CUIFORKIt UBRtRy OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CUIFORI ^^5vC^^^ THE aiYERSiTY OF CUIFORNU LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORN /R) Digitized by the Internet Arcinive in 2007 witin funding from IVIicrosoft Corporation littp://www.archive.org/details/cliamoishuntinginOObonerich / # CHAMOIS HUNTING MOUNTAINS OF BAVARIA BY CHARLES BONER, TOitJ Illustrations, By THEODORE HOESCHELT, OF MUKICH. LONDON : CHAPMAN AND HALL, 193, PICCADILLY. 1853. ^ k^ PRINTED BY JOnK EDWABB TATLOU, LITTLB QUEEN STREET, LINCOLN'S INN FIELDS. PREFACE. I In the following pages will be found several German words often repeated ; for much as I dislike the ad- mixture of one language with another, the present case left me without an alternative, the words in ques- tion not having an equivalent in my own tongue. I have therefore employed " Laane," " Latschen," etc., each time any mention is made of these objects, think- ing it was better to do so, than adhere pedantically to some English explicative, which would fail, after all, in conveying the exact meaning. The compositions from the pencil of Mr. Horschelt need no praise of mine. The happy arrangement of each small picture speaks for itself; and we both may esteem ourselves fortunate in having found so m skilful a hand as Mr. Hohe's to transfer them to the ■ stone. IV PREFACE. With regard to the scenes represented, I would observe, that they were chosen as giving a general notion of the mountains, rather than of the difficult and dangerous places met with by the Chamois Hunter. Indeed not one of the views shows a po- sition of any peril. I was anxious to avoid every- thing that might appear like exaggeration ; and for this reason a sketch ("Descending the Mountain,") which Mr. Horschelt had made was omitted, lest the daring hardihood displayed therein might excite doubts as to its truth. In the descriptions, also, it was equally my aim to keep rather within the limits to which I might have gone. Some forms, perhaps, appeared to me more grand, and certain bright effects more beautiful, than they might have done to another : however I am not aware of having given to either an undue importance or a too heightened colouring. What I saw is de- scribed as / saw it. My wish has been to reflect back on the page those pictures which, as they passed, my memory had retained ; to impart to others the same vivid impressions which my own mind had received. Charles Boner. St. Emeran, Eatisbon, January 10, 1852. CONTENTS. fart i\t lirst. CHAPTER I. Page INTEODUCTOEY CHAPTEE .... .1 CHAPTER II. APPEOACHINO THE MOUNTAINS 10 CHAPTER III. AFTEE THE GOOD STAG 28 CHAPTER IV. THE STAG IN THE EUTTING SEASON .... 34 CHAPTER V. WALK TO FISCHBACHAU 41 CHAPTER VI. TTP THE MIESING 53 VI CONTENTS. CHAPTER VII. Page AFTER THE CHASE. THE SOLACHERS .... 78 CHAPTER VIII. THE CHAMOIS 89 CHAPTER IX. KEEUTH 106 CHAPTER X. THE ALM HtJTTE 122 CHAPTER XI. AN UNLUCKY DAY ....... 140 CHAPTER XII. THE EISS 154 CHAPTER Xm. A day's SPOET on THE KEAMMETS BEEG . . . 169 CHAPTER XIV. THE FALL. TO HOHENBUEG AND KEEUTH . . . 192 CHAPTER XV. BAIEEISCH ZELL 211 CHAPTER XVI. ON THE MOUNTAIN 220 CHAPTER XVII. MEETING WITH POACHEES 235 CONTENTS. t^^^P Vll CHAPTER XVIII. Page THE PEEPARATION . . . , . . .251 CHAPTER XIX. TO PAETENKIECHEN 257 CHAPTER XX. UP THE MOUNTAIN . * 264 CHAPTER XXI. HOMEWARDS 291 CHAPTER XXII. THE OESTER BERG 302 CHAPTER XXIII. MIST ON THE MOUNTAIN 313 CHAPTER XXIV. OLD BUCK 326 CHAPTER XXV. A STROLL WITHOUT MY RIFLE 342 CHAPTER XXVI. THE KROTENKOPP AND THE KRAMER .... 352 Vlll CONTENTS. CHAPTER XXVII. A CHAPTER ABOUT SCHNADAHUPFLN Page 3(59 CHAPTER XXVIII. CHAPTER THE LAST 879 fist 0f |lto$ttati0ns. FRONTISPIECE. — CHAMOIS. RETURNING FROM THE CHASE SENNERINN ON THE MOUNTAIN — VIGNETTE . GETTING A SHOT A "GRABEN" COTTAGE IN THE BAVARIAN HIGHLANDS — VIGNETTE TARGET SHOOTING VIGNETTE AFTER THE WOUNDED CHAMOIS A SENN HUTTE — VIGNETTE .... CHAMOIS — VIGNETTE VIEW OVER "das STEINENE MEER" A DIFFICULT PLACE — VIGNETTE Page 19 27 69 187 210 219 289 325 366 399 410 CHAMOIS HUNTING THE MOUNTAINS OF BAVARIA. INTEODUCTOEY CHAPTER. BOUT twelve years ago I went out for the first time in my life to shoot deer. It was winter, and every attendant circumstance had the delightftd ex- citement of novelty. As the woods whither we were going were some distance ofi", the whole party assem- bled betimes to a substantial breakfast. Then came the departure in the light sledges ; each of us packing himself up in furs, and his feet and legs in coverings of sheepskin, to bid defiance to the sharp dry air, that was piercing enough to penetrate through every covering. Once off, the merry jingle of the bells on the horses' heads, the flying snow-fiakes as the light-limbed Hungarian horses dashed on over the C frozen surface — the benumbed passers through ■ I CHAMOIS HUNTING. the streets shuffling along still half asleep, stopping however as we swept by — the partly hidden faces peeping from the windows, as the mingled melody of the many bells told what was coming — all afforded me amusement and gave me intense pleasure. There was then the arrival at the place of our destination, the forester's house, where all his men and under- gamekeepers drawn up in order were awaiting our arrival- — the troop of beaters, uncouth, wild-looking peasants, clothed in every description of dress it is possible to imagine — the conversation with the head- keeper about the game, and the questions as to the day's sport — anxious inquiries too from one of the party, whether a deer that he had wounded some days before had been found or not — in short the whole scene in which I had become an actor was totally new and strange to me, and I looked on, curious to see what novelty would happen next. Each little incident that has so often since seemed like an every-day occurrence, was full of interest then. We went out at last into the forest, where all was frost-bound, and every branch and twig inclosed in a crystal covering; where not a sound was heard, except the distant tramp of the beaters on the crack- ling snow, as they wound upwards through a hollow. Presently I was left alone at my appointed stand. By-and-bye the sharp sound of a rifle came tingling through the clear air, and soon after a troop of deer would come stepping along quite scared and wonder- ing over the snow. It was a new world to me, all INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER. t this, and every incident gave me fresh dehght. Later came the chase of the boar ; and in summer-time I H was on the hills, or moving amid the deep stillness of the woods at noon after the majestic stag. T/iat, I thought, surpassed everything in enjoyment: the beautiful scenes into which it led me, the exciting circumstances that were constantly occurring, the gallant bearing of the magnificent creature that my rifle had at last brought down — all this caused my whole being to thrill with longing and with joy. After such a day in the forest, there was the sweet pleasure of going over every incident again in thought; I saw the mighty stag as he moved over the green sward f in stately pride, I felt anew the hope and the fear and the breathless longing, and I once more stood over him as his vast form lay stretched upon the earth in the sunny beech-forest. At that time I lived in such sweet absorbing memories, or in anticipation of what was to come. For a day in the woods, with my rifle over my shoulder and the hope of meeting the red deer, I should have given up anything. ■ At last, however, as a matter of course I grew somewhat calmer. My delight was not diminished — it was as great as ever ; but the flutter, and the pal- pitation, and the burning impatience, were subdued. And indeed there was much need they should be. Then too I became initiated in the mysteries of the noble art, and by degrees learned to look on what belonged to it with a more tranquil eye. And when C^ht how new and strange all had once appeared B 2 4 CHAMOIS HUNTING. to me, how delighted I had been on first stalking through the forest, and how many there were inEngland to whom such exquisite pastime was quite unknown, it seemed that if I attempted to describe what had afforded me so much pleasure, the subject was one that could not fail to interest others also. I carried this idea long about with me, indolently delaying to execute what I had planned, when behold ! another did what I had only thought of doing, and Mr. Scrope's book on Deer Stalking appeared. At the moment I was about to preach myself a sermon for my indo- lence, with a wise moral about the evils of delay, etc., but after a time I began to think the evil was not so great after all, and that it was very well as it was ; much better indeed than had two works on the same subject appeared simultaneously. Year after year passed away thus, and, thanks to the great kindness of the noble possessor of the extensive forests where I shot my first red deer, I afterwards enjoyed the privilege of always joining his party when the season began. Overlooking the Danube the woods through which we ranged extended on every side for many miles. Right pleasant days were those, when we were met in the morning by the young foresters bringing their report of where the deer were to be found. The young fellows had been abroad since the dawn, and had crossed the furthest hill-top and skirted many a wood to be ready by the time of our arrival. They now came pouring in from all sides to the trysting-place, bringing with them the ex- INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER. pected intelligence. In Stein Seigen were two stags, one of ten and the other of twelve*; indeed he might have fourteen, so large was his shot. Another had been round Hell Berg and Schopf Loh, but had seen nothing. He had seen tracks of deer, it is true, but they were old ones ; and where the deuce they had gone to he could not think. They must have been disturbed, for " he had had them there" for four suc- cessive days, and they were there yesterday. Sud- denly perhaps a messenger would arrive, all breath- less with haste, with such speed had he come down the steep path that leads through the forest to the village. He brought the news that the stag which had disappeared so suddenly was come back again. "The same that Count H. missed lately ?" " Yes, the very same :" he was now in a small wood on the hill-side in the next forest, and a young peasant who was quick of foot had been despatched immediately to inform His Highness of the event. Such was the information contained in the head-forester's hastily written note. What excite- ment was there then, and what hopes and question- ings ! As I look back on these days, I can hardly beheve that all is now over, that the forests are as deserts, no longer peopled by their red inhabitants — that these, like the Red Indian of the prairie, have been * An expression made use of above may need explanation. The points on the antlers of a stag increase in number with his years ; to them therefore reference is always made when denoting the age and size of the animal. " A stag of twelve " is one with twelve points op branches to his antlers. O CHAMOIS HUNTING. hunted down and exterminated, and their haunts, once so full of life, become silent and lonely. I think it would be quite impossible for me to describe the sensations, the exquisite delight of that delicious time. The freshness of the morning, the deep stillness of the woods at noon, the green and golden pageantry as the sunbeams pierced through a thousand crevices in the leafy roof, the breathless expectation when a light foot-fall told me the forest king was approaching — everything, in short, that belonged to the hunter's life was full of pleasurable sensations. But soon even these delights were to give way to others still more exciting. Our party during the shooting season was usually joined by two gentlemen, who went regularly to the mountains to hunt chamois. Often of an evening, after a day in the forest, and while we all were sitting over our coffee after dinner, they would relate some adventure that had befallen them while watching for a strong buck high up among the snowy fastnesses of Berchtes- gaden, or tell of the merry life they led on the less formidable mountains and in the Senn Hiitten* of Baierisch Zell; while on another occasion our very blood would almost curdle, as we Hstened and heard how one of them had crept along the narrow ridge of a precipice near the Ober See, to fetch a chamois he had shot ; and how, had his foot slipped * Senn Hiltte, the same as " Chalet." The hut inhabited by the herdsmen and the dairy -maids during their summer sojourn on the mountain. prl INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER. or his head grown dizzy, he must have dropped per- pendicularly through the air into the lake far far below him. And to these tales of adventure I listened with as much eagerness and curiosity as I had done, when a boy, to tales of shipwreck and of sailor life ; and with the same feeling too, — an ardent longing to share in such adventurous pastime. The other, more susceptible perhaps than his companion to the glories around him, would describe the scene that presented itself to his astonished gaze, when, having gained the summit of the mountain, the mists suddenly parting let in the golden Hght of the rising sun, and showed huge rocks and precipices, and green herbage, and high-up valleys all lying close before him at his feet. There was genuine enthusiasm in all these descriptions, and, hke all genuine feehng, it did not fail of its effect. I could no longer resist the desire to move with rifle at my back amid such scenes ; to step along those narrow ledges of rock, or creep up through the steep ravines which had become almost like well-known places to me, so much had I heard about them and so particular had been my questionings; and at last the wish I had cherished for years was reahzed, and I stood upon the moun- tain-top and saw the chamois among the rocks. Deer-stalking in the forest, with all its pleasures and excitement, was but tame sport to this. I could now well understand how with some it could become a passion so strong and irresistible that not even all the hazards of a poacher's life prevented its gratification. O CHAMOIS HUNTING. The magnificent scenery, the daring and the danger, the vigour and elasticity of limb which the pure mountain air imparted, the glorious sunrise over- flooding gradually the plains of snow, the loud cry of joy of the peasant-girl ringing upwards to the very sky, — all this sent a thrill through my whole frame, and my blood seemed to feel the thrill and tingled with exultation. What would I not have often given could hearty old Christopher North have been with me to enjoy the sight, — to have watched the driving mists coming upwards from the valley, and have listened for a sound amid that silence and solitude. He rather paints than describes ; his words are colour, with which he fills a canvas, and so presents you with a picture of the scene. And then, too, that other master of his art, Edwin Landseer — ^what a new field was here for his truthful pencil ! Hardly a day ever passed but some grand effect, some picturesque group, or some striking incident reminded me of him, and made me wish that he could be there, to catch the happy moment and give it a permanent existence. The peculiar tone of that mountain scenery, the expressive features and bold characteristic bearing of the chamois, the occa- sionally perilous positions of the hunter, — all this, and much more beside, would, with his poetic mind and wonderfully skilful handling, afford such pictures as even his hand has not yet produced. I had given up my intention of describing the red- deer and the forest as soon as Mr. Scrope's book INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER. appeared; but when the new world that mountain life presents opened upon me, the former wish arose I again, and I determined that chamois -hunting should now be my theme. It was a subject of which nothing was known in England, and I felt sure that if I were able to impart to what I wrote but a tithe of the charm which the scenes described really possess, it could not fail to interest. Should it not do so, the fault is solely mine. 10 CHAPTER II. APPROACHING THE MOUNTAINS. He only who has dwelt in the mountains, or has wan- dered for a time over their sides and through their valleys, — ^who has entered the simple but comfortable cottages, and chatted familiarly with the peasantry in their own pecuUar dialect about their occupations and their pastimes ; — such a one only can form a notion of the feeling of delight which is experienced when at length a sudden turn in the road shows him the mighty forms striving upwards to the sky, their peaks, may be, gleaming brightly with a covering of snow, or, if the air be clear and it still be summer weather, appearing with that beautiful deep blue tint which forms the distance in the South. There is something so cheering and gladdening in the sight ! It calls to mind familiar greetings and rough but hearty welcomings, — pleasant returnings homeward from the chase, and song and the merry dance. Already with the mind's eye is seen the wide view from the momitain-top ; you again snuiff the I I APPROACHING THE MOUNTAINS. pure bracing air; and the shout and the Jodler* of the shepherd-boy or Sennerinn\ abeady resound in your ears. As we approach the now near horizon all wears a different character. The houses are built otherwise, and have altogether another look than those we passed before ; the roofs project over the sides and are bordered with some simple ornaments ; a light wooden balcony is before the windows of the first story, and the walls are of snowy whiteness, and the trellis-work and doors and shutters are neatly and even tastefully painted. It looks gay, and green, and cheerful, jfnd on the roofs we now see a bell, which, swinging between its cross-beams, calls home those who are in the fields to dinner or to supper. It is a sign that the wealth of the peasant here consists in pasture-land ; and indeed no corn is seen, but the slopes and plain are covered with rich grass and with lowing kine. And then, too, the passers-by ! The green pointed hat, worn alike by both sexes, with its golden tassel and gay flowers on the brim ; the grey joppel and short leathern breeches of the men ; the gold-embroidered boddice and striped petticoat of the women are now not only more frequent, but are almost exclusively seen ; and if we stop at a village, all that meets the eye tells us at once we are * Jodler. The peculiar song of all mountaineers, the high notes being always a falsetto. The Brothers Rainer, now in England, sing it in perfection. t Senner — Sennerinn. Dairy-man — dairy-maid. X Joppe is the loose short coat worn by the mountaineer of Bava^ ria, and by the Tyrolian peasantry. 12 CHAMOIS HUNTING. among another race than those we left behind in the flat country. It sounds pleasantly too — gratefully fall- ing on the heart rather than on the ear — ^that friendly *' Grus8 di GottT (God greet ye!) with which each one salutes you as he enters the inn or place where you may be. There is a heartiness and simplicity, an absence of all conventional formality in the salutation and the manner of it, very characteristic of, and ac- cording well with, a mountain people. And how clean the village looks, how neat and healthy its in- habitants ! They live better and work less hard than the peasanlry of the more northern provinces; they are not exposed to a burning sun during the harvest season, nor to the wet and cold attendant on field labour. They are up on the mountain pasturages in summer, and in autumn and winter are comfortably housed in their snug cottages in the valley. Their corn they buy, and from their herds on the mountain they derive milk and butter and cheese in abundance ; and thus may be said to live literally on the very fat of the land. But how distinct the blue peaks become ! We shall soon be at their base, nor will it be very long, we hope, before we are mounting their sides, and stepping care- fully along yonder ridge that cuts the sky so sharply ! For that is the Plan Berg, and some chamois are still there, and it is the place where we hope, with the forester's permission, to get a few days' stalking. How clear the air is ! The outline of every distant object is seen with wonderful distinctness: there is not a APPROACHING THE MOUNTAINS. 13 cloud in the sky, and the sun hghts up the woodland slopes, and makes their sober brown and gold look quite gay and festal on this lovely autumnal morning. And there is Tegernsee, its broad expanse of water as waveless as the air, and as clear and lucid too. A single boat is moving lazily across from a cottage on P the opposite shore, and you wonder how so young a girl as she who is rowing can get such a cumbrous craft to move along even thus quickly. The broad brim of her green hat shades the upper part of her face ; but that only makes the brightness of her black eyes the more apparent, and round her head are twined the braids of her long thick hair, just as it is worn by ■ the women of the Tyrol. The silken kerchief crossed over her full bosom is tucked in her boddice ; and if the mieder* does seem too tight, it is rather from the swelling luxuriance of eighteen summers, than from any effort made in plying her rude pair of oars. She always had a friendly smile for you on entering her boat ; though, as it seemed, she was not without her little stock of sorrow; for as I one day rowed by a H * Mieder is the stiff boddice of silk or velvet worn by the women. It is either richly embroidered, or, in some parts, a silver chain is passed like a lace from one side to the other, and fastened with hooks of silver. Indeed much luxury is often displayed in the dress of ^ these country lasses. The cap {Riegel Hauhe) of the Munich girls, ■ for example, contains a considerable quantity of the precious metal. ^ The men too, in the low-lands especially, are given to display in their buttons. A rich peasant may often be seen with a long row of these down the front of his coat, one overlapping the other, each being formed of a broad sUver coin of two groats value ; on his waistcoat B the same. On the frieze joppe of the mountaineer, however, there is 14 CHAMOIS HUNTING. country-house whose garden was reflected in the lake, she looked up wistfully at the closed windows ; and I learned afterwards that the Jager of the family, who had now left their villa for the town, was her lover, and that he had not yet written to her since they parted. " He has not forgotten me, I know," said Marie, with her usual pretty smile; "I shall soon get a letter, I am sure.'' And I am sure I hope with all my heart she may, for it were a pity so young a face should wear a look of sorrow. And were no letter to arrive, how oppressively sad to have that deserted house constantly before her as she rowed daily across the lake ! But I have forgotten the mountains and the au- tumnal morning, with talking of the pretty maiden of the ferry ; however, she and her skiff, with its train of dancing light behind it, belong to the scene, and form a pleasing and even necessary feature in the landscape. As if all was to be festive on this exquisite October morning, here comes a gay procession. What a noise of deep, hollow-sounding bells is heard coming up the road that winds along the lake ! There in front a stately cow advances, her horns adorned with a large wreath of beautiful flowers, — roses, dahlias, erica, and evergreens. Above her head towers a pile of fes- toons and garlands; and within an arch of flowers and foliage is a bright crown of tinsel, and below it in the same shining material a large C. It is the cattle of His Royal Highness Prince Charles of Bavaria re- turning for the winter from the mountain pasturage. APPROACHING THE MOUNTAINS. They are splendid animals of the Altgau breed ; short legged, full uddered, and with dewlaps like the Col- chian bulls. Many are the bells they wear, — long, broad bells, of sweetly sonorous metal, fastened round their strong necks by a thick strap of leather. But the foremost one has alone the coronal: she is to walk first, nor would she let one of the others pass her on any account whatever. She maintains her place in front as resolutely as I have known une Dame dupalais insist upon having the pas when other ladies were present ; and she heads the procession with a sturdy air, and a look of ineffable contempt for all going on around. Nor is it mere fancy that she is proud of her pre-eminence ; she knows as well as you do that she is to be first; and she deserves her rank, for in truth she is a splendid creature. And behind comes the tall herdsman, his hat more than usually gay with flowers, and with a tuft of fine yellow feathery grass, that looks not unlike the plumage of the bird of para- dise. How proudly he walks behind his troop, while the gardens that border the road are filled with gazers ; and further on, the Queen and her ladies are waiting to see the cattle returning home to the valley. He looks calmly about him, but greets no one : he feels that to-day he is the principal personage ; he is cele- brating his trimnph. I would fain wager though, when he sees the sweet friendly face of the young Queen yonder, his countenance will relax somewhat, and that it will soften and suddenly grow bright like a cloud when a sunbeam falls upon it. Follow- 16 CHAMOIS HUNTING. ing him is a troop of goats, all unadorned save one in front; and after them comes the maiden who tends them, smart in her holiday attire. Bringing up the rear, like the baggage-train of an army, a waggon is lumbering on with household necessaries piled high upon it, and drawn by two sturdy oxen, whom a little peasant boy, with face as cheerful as the morn, guides along. The merry scene pleases him; he does not regret to leave the mountain, for what child ever yet grieved at change of place ? But gay and festal as " the return from the Aim " always is, it is by far not so pleasing an event to the Senner and Sennerinn as the departure for "the mountain" in spring. Then, as the forester's young wife told me, who stood looking at them with her baby laughing on her arm, then if you meet them, and, wishing them good day, ask whither they are going, the reply, " Auf die Aim* !" is quite musical with pleasure, and their faces are radiant with thoughts of the life awaiting them on the green mountain slopes. But when meet- ing them in autumn, on their downward path, you put the same question, the answer, " Home !" tells at once by its tone how reluctant they are to leave their summer dwelling-place. And indeed it is not to be wondered at. On some high spot, sheltered perhaps by perpendicular walls of rock a thousand feet, closed in, in a sort of "happy valley " up among the mountains, or else may be on a verdant piece of table-land, free and unbounded * « To the pastures on the mountain !" APPROACHING THE MOUNTAINS. 17 on every side, are built the rough wooden habitations — mere log-houses — of the Sennerinnen. Far, far below them the world lies extended. With the sun they rise, and are on the mountain- tops watching the brightness as it gradually diffuses itself over earth and sky. There, with the dawn, while the day is bursting forth in magnificent array, stands the peasant-girl all radiant and effulgent on some peak, the sun's ■ rays glowing around her. Above her, in the distance, the snowy summits are growing rosy with the light ; while the lesser mountains and the valleys below her have not yet seen the sun. And soon the w^hole face ^ of the stupendous wall of grey rock is flushing in gratulation ; all is teeming with sunbeams and bril- liancy; the haze over the lake and river divides and evaporates ; and shore and village, upland and hamlet I He before her eyes clear and distinct in the dewy fresh- ness of an early summer morning. All is still on the mountain. She gazes on the coming glory, and is silent ; she watches the gradual development in mute deUght ; but when the sun himself has at length come forth the spell is broken, and as she turns to look after her herd, proclaims her sense of freedom by a loud burst of song ; and if ever content, joy, and light- heartedness were expressed in sounds, they are to be found in the simple melody of such mountain carol. II know nothing like it. How loud, how high, some of the notes ! how rapidly they change ! w^hat glad- ness is in that jodler, and how boundingly the song retm-ns from the high shrill tone, descending note by L 18 CHAMOIS HUNTING. note to the more sober ones, as though the heart were gradually recovering from its sudden fit of ecstasy. But it is only for a moment; and again it is heard mounting higher, heard louder than before, and faintly echoed back from the opposite mountain. No, that was not an echo, — it was a Sennerinn from those dis- tant huts yonder answering the other. It may be thought that the rough uncultivated na- ture of these peasants, placed as they are year after year amid the same scenes, and following the same unvarying occupations, will not be much influenced by the appearances of external nature; and that to suppose them to be so is rather a poetic fancy than plain sober fact. But I am not of this opinion : I believe that, unconsciously, they are impressed by the sublime scenery around them : they enjoy it dif- ferently from the man of more refined mind, but the result is perhaps nearly the same, only different in degree and quality ; in both the principal feature being enjoyment, though more sensuous in the one than in the other. And that they do enjoy it to the full — to the full according to their capacity — is evident from their manner, their looks, and their con- versation. They live surrounded by grandeur, and glory, and magnificence. Wonders happen around them ; nor do they pass unheeded, for it is these that break the monotony of their life. We too are encom- passed by wonders, but in the strife and turmoil we have no time to stop and marvel ; while they, separated for months from the world and its w earing cares, keep ^PROACHING THE MOUNTAINS. their minds fresher and more susceptible to outward impressions. Knowing nothing of conventions, nor hardened or pressed down by want, they are, both mentally and bodily, more healthy and more vigorous. The purity of the air gives elasticity to the heart as well as to the limbs, and their simple diet is most surely not without a happy influence. Meat they never taste, and their sole drink is milk or water. Their pleasures are of the simplest kind : song is for them at once an occupation and a pastime, and when on the mountains, you are sure to hear some solitary watcher over his herd beguiling the lonesome hours with a mouth harmonicon, or filling the air with one of their happy songs, quite as full of happiness in its way as the carolling of the lark. Occasionally the chamois-hunter descends to their dwelling, to cook a warm meal or to pass the night under shelter of their roof. From him they get the latest news of what is going on in the vale ; they give him a hearty welcome, and the evening is passed merrily, and concluded, may be, with a dance ; for the Jager is sure to find favour with the sex, and no young knight-errant was ever better received by the fair dames of a castle where he craved hospitality, than the trim and merry young hunter by the Sennerinn on the mountain. But to return to the high-road. There was no boat to be had at the moment to take me across the lake to the little village of Egern; so, putting my portmanteau, on the cart of a young peasant who was just driving by, with rifle in hand up I jumped, and 20 CHAMOIS HUNTING. in less than a quarter of an hour we were at Rottach, five minutes' walk from the place of my destination. A little urchin offered to '' radeln^'' (trundle) my things to the inn ; so helping the little fellow to put the luggage on his barrow, off we set together. But he soon stopped to rest, and when he saw me waiting for him, he told me "to go on : there was no need whatever for me to stay, he would be sure and come ;" and as I saw he wished to have the glory of perform- ing his piece of work quite alone, I left him to follow at his leisure. I am always glad to employ a child when circum- stances make it possible ; first because I like children's company and to hear their talk, and also because I wish that they should know how comely a thing it is to be employed usefully, and how sweet the earnings of one's own labour are. I have a habit, when walk- ing, of scattering crumbs for the birds, who are almost sure to find them ; and just so, I fancy, a chance in- centive to industry, or a little reward for some kindly- meant attention, may not be wholly lost, but, being remembered long afterwards, may incite to a love of * The siglit of the green fields and hedgerows is not more pleasant to him who has been " long in populous cities pent," than is to my ear the sound of a genuine provincialism, uttered in a broad dialect, giving earnest as it does of being really beyond the influence of the town. Once in Somersetshire I remember a peasant point- ing out to me a place in the distance, and telling me it was near where yonder "housen" were; giving the word "house" its old Saxon plural. That one word seemed at once to remove me from the haunts of over-civilization, and I felt sure I had really got into the country. It was the same with the ''radeln' of my little peasant- boy, and I welcomed it accordingly. I APPROACHING THE MOUNTAINS. occupation, and encourage to acts of friendliness and to good behaviour. Most children arc delighted to be employed, and the consciousness that they are of use makes them quite elate : it is the germ of a feeling which, if properly nurtured, ripens into self-respect. Having made my arrangements at the village inn overlooking the lake, I went to the forester's house to present my credentials. Ha ! there are the antlers over the gable, denoting who is the inmate. Eight — ten — twelve ! a good stag must he have been that once bore them. It always gives me pleasiu-e to see this trophy over the doorway or on the pointed roof, for it is a sign of freemasonry, and tells me that, in case of need, there is a comrade near. The letter presented, and my story told, I heard exactly what I was prepared for. " Things look very bad just now. Sir, I fear there is not much to be done. The chamois have no peace — the peasants are always out in the mountains, and what they do not shoot they scare away. However, if I can oblige you, I shall be very happy to do so. I '11 speak to the under-keeper, and hear if he has seen any chamois lately." When he came up, "Well, Meier," inquired the forester, "what chance is there, think you, of doing something on the mountains ? All looks very bad, I fear. Do you think you might get a shot or two ?" Meier's countenance wore no encouraging look, and he only repeated what I had already heard, of the scarcity of the chamois, and of the depredations the poachers were constantly committing. "All about 22 CHAMOIS HUNTING. here, «as you know," the forester added, "were cha- mois and red-deer in abundance, and now it is a chance if a single head of game is seen in a day's stalking. However," turning to Meier, " the Peissen- berg would be the likeliest place — there perhaps might be a chance." " It is the only place where there are any now," Meier said. " Chamois are there, but the mountain is large, and there being so few perhaps we might not see them. And then too a single gun only ! it is difficult to guess where they will come for one per- son to get a shot : with two it were easier. However we can try. I will place you," he said, turning to me, " where the chamois are most likely to pass, and then I will go through the wood and drive them out. But I cannot say for certain you will get a shot." " Never mind," I answered, " let us try ; if we see nothing it cannot be helped." So it was arranged that on the day after the morrow we should try our luck on the Peissenberg. I was just going away when the forester said, " There is a good stag on the Ring Berg; Meier has heard him for some days past, if you would like to try for him." A stag in the rutting season ! I pricked my ears at the announcement. " A ^oo<^ stag ?" I asked. " Oh yes, a very good one." " Of how many, think you?" " Of twelve certainly. Meier saw him yesterday, about two hundred yards off, but the ground was un- favourable, and he did not fire." I APPROACHING THE MOUNTAINS. 23 ''' Yes," said Meier, " he is a capital stag ; he is one that would please you, if you could get him. I have often heard hini of a morning, but yesterday only I was able to get near enough to see him. He is worth going after, I assure you." " But," said the forester, " delay in this case is not advisable, for at the top of the mountain is the boun- dary Hne between the royal chase and that which the peasants now have. At this season the stag will be always on the move, and as the limits are so near, he might very likely cross over into that part which is not ours ; if so, we can do nothing." " Has he any hinds with him ?" I asked. " No ; but there must be a few on the mountain." "Well, that's the grand thing; if that is the case he will hardly go away. However we'll try for him tomorrow\ Can you go, Meier?" "The best way," said the forester, "would be to start this afternoon, and sleep at a farm-house at the foot of the mountain. They can perhaps make you up a bed ; and something to eat and drink you are sure to get. Then start the next morning early, so as to be on the mountain when day breaks. By leaving about half-past three today, you will get to the farm in good time this evening, and can sit out a little and listen if you hear the stag. And take the shell with you," he said, turning to Meier; "perhaps you may want it, if you hear him near." And so matters were settled. At the appointed time I saw Meier from my window 24 CHAMOIS HUNTING. coming to fetch me, and we presently set off for the hills. It was a delicious afternoon. We ascended by a path which had been made for the cattle ; and as it had been raining lately, and the cows had just been driven down, the road was none of the best. The scene below was very lovely, as seen from om- gentle eminence. Repose, and peace, and calm, were im- pressed on the landscape. The bright quiet afternoon was just fitted for the placid lake and the undulating woodland. There are some spots with which only certain effects accord, which demand a particular sky to suit their marked character. Now to me Tegernsee seems one of these. Sun and gladness belong to it, nor would grand masses of shade and a strong effect become it so well. Art would no doubt make even such appearances harmonize with the scene, for what cannot Art accomplish? But what I mean is, its features being of a placid stamp, a stern expression would be more difficult for us to reconcile with it. With the human countenance it is the same. We came at last to a spot surrounded by high woods, and here we seated ourselves to listen for the stag. The evening was calm, and all was very still, yet we lis- tened in vain for the much wished-for voice from the woods above. After waiting some time we were about to go, when from a turn in the road before us three men emerged. Quick as lightning out flew Meier's telescope, as he said, " They all have guns !" He looked at them for awhile, and muttering, " The ras- cals !" put up his glass, but still continued watching APPROACHING THE MOUNTAINS. 25 them till they were out of sight behind the rising ground where we stood. As we rose to go we saw Khem again among the bushes : they now perceived LS too ; and, as if to show that they did not care for Laving been seen, began whistling and making all sorts of jeering noises till we were out of sight. " They will be out betimes tomorrow, no doubt," said Meier ; "they will try for the stag, too, I dare say." ^L We came to the farm. It was a large building on a pleasant meadow, surrounded by the mountains. On entering, the cheerful blaze of a fire burst upon us, at which the supper for the maids and labourers was being prepared. Now a cow-herd, now a dairy- maid dropped in, and exchanged a word with my companion, or stopped and chatted with us both and asked about our plans for the morrow. A savoury omelet was soon frying on the kitchen-fire, and this, with a sHce of bread and a glass or two of beer, formed an excellent supper. An elderly woman was our cook, who, it seemed, had to provide for and superintend the others, and was in fact a sort of housekeeper. Knowing I had come from Munich, she asked if I knew Professor von Kobell*, — " he who * Franz von Kobell is well known as the author of some volumes of poems in the Bavarian dialects. Being my friend, I might be deemed partial were I to speak of him as I would wish. It fre- quently amused me, during my stay in the mountains, to find there were three names which were like familiar household words in every part I came to — that of H.E.H. Duke Max in Bavaria, Professor von Kobell, and Count Max Arco-Hohenburg. Whenever these were mentioned, and I said I had the honour of being acquainted with the Duke, and that the two others were my intimate friends, it 26 CHAMOIS HUNTING. had written the books, and made poems and Schnada- hiipfln." She was quite pleased to hear that I did ; and, seeming to think that on this account I must be better worth speaking to, began chatting with me. " A merry comrade that," said I. " Merry !" she exclaimed, " Merry ! 'faith, that he is indeed ; and how he can touch the cithern, and sing Schnadahiipfln*! There are not many such as he !" And then turning to my neighbour, — "And you, Meier, you can't sing?" " No." " Nor play the cithern ?" " No." " Nor whistle a merry tune ?" "No." " A pretty fellow, truly ! a Jager and not sing ! But where 's Max gone? He could do everything, and he was right merry too, and full of jokes !" "And who is this Max?" I asked. "A young forester, very different to Meier there, who can do nothing !" she answered, laughing. " He covdd play the cithern, and sing songs, one merrier than the other, and whistle too — 'twas like a blackbird to hear him ! And then he danced, and how he would make us all laugh with his stories ! and he was such a good-looking young fellow too — much better-looking seemed to be a passport to their good opinion, and the heartiest grew still more hearty than before. Especially among the foresters the latter name had a mighty influence ; and when they heard that we had often shot a good stag or wild boar together, they looked on me as being " a good man and a true," and drew nearer and talked more familiarly. * See a later Chapter. APPROACHING THE MOUNTAINS. 27 than you, Meier — and what teeth he had — white as I" ivory I Though all this was said half laughingly, there was still some seriousness in the old housekeeper's manner, and I could not help smiling at the praises bestowed on this mountain Adonis. Meier took all her jokes very quietly — more so perhaps than he would have done had they come from one not quite so elderly. We still chatted around the fire for a time, and then went upstairs to rest, where to my surprise I found two excellent beds in readiness, instead of clean hay, as I had expected. One look at the night, to see what promise for the morning, and then to sleep. 2S CHAPTER III. AFTER THE GOOD STAG. The next morning we were up and ready by four o'clock. The moon and stars were still shining brightly ; the air was fresh, but not cold. I went to the door of the house and looked out into the night. Nothing stirred : there was no sign of a single living creature being abroad : not even the murmur of a rivulet was to be heard, descending from the mountains to the plain, — a sound which among the hills seldom fails to greet the ear, either near or in the distance. But there rose around me that low hum, that indescribable rustle, which is never heard but in the silence of the night, and which seems to make the stillness palpable. From the depth of the forests before, behind me, and on every side, came that low deep murmur tingling on the ear, as when the myriad buzzings of the invisible insect world in summer unite in one drowsy hollow tone at noon. It was not loud, but it was distinct and very audible, even to an ear not quickly sensitive l AFTER THE GOOD STAG. 29' it came from out of the earth, and from the woods, and from the sides of the mountains, and rising upwards filled all the air, even up to the very hill-tops lying in the cold light of the stars. Was this low sound perchance the breathing of Nature in her trance-like sleep ? We took our rifles and set out. Until we came to the woods it was easy enough to proceed ; but here, it being steep and slippery, and as we were unable to see the path and the obstacles it presented, our pro- gress was rather slow. This however I should say of myself only ; for my companion was always in advance, nimbly mounting before me, and waiting till I reached him. The logs of wood left to rot on the ground are sadly inconvenient on such occasions : you knock your shins almost to pieces against them, or treading on shppery surface of the humid branches, go down the earthwards with your nose as pioneer. We presently came to a clearing, where we stopped and seated our- selves on a felled tree to Hsten for the stag. Twice we had heard his hoarse rumbling roar from afar, as we ascended the hill-side, but now again all was hushed, and we listened and listened in vain. Taking a large sea-shell out of his rucksack^, Meier put it to his * JRucksack. A square bag or sack of coarse green canvas, used as a knapsack by the peasant generally, and by the hunter to carry his game. A cord runs round the mouth or opening, by which it can be drawn together. From this part a strap passes over each shoulder, and is attached to the corners below. The capaciousness of such a riicksack is something quite marvellous; there is really no end to what may be stuflfed into it. 30 CHAMOIS HUNTING. mouth, and began to imitate that pecuhar sound be- tokening ardour, impatience, and anger, which the stag makes at this season when seeking the hind. It was really a pretty sight ; it had even something classical in it. There the young fellow lay, reclining on the fallen trunk, his hat off, his throat bare, and the coming light playing about the upturned shell, as, Triton-like, he blew into his ocean-horn, and made the air vibrate with the hoarse bellowing. Below, in a vast chasm, were floating thin mists, gently rising upwards to meet and to be dispersed by the sun. On they came like waves ; and it needed no very brilliant imagination to behold an ocean before you, and he with the spotted shell lying on its shore. But no answer came. Once before we had heard, just as the shadows were beginning to leave the top of the opposite mountain, a hollow sound come mur- muring across the valley before us. It was scarcely audible; it was a low muttering, as though it pro- ceeded from out of the mountain itself. "Did you hear it?" exclaimed Meier. "That's the stag, but he is a great way ofi*. He will go, I am afraid, on the other side of the mountain, and then we may not follow him, for there the royal forests end." "How vexatious! he probably has no deer with him, or he would hardly go away." And again through his shell sounded the deep hoarse tones ; but it was all in vain. " He must be far off, quite out of hearing, or he would come for certain ; AFTER THE GOOD STAG. 31 he would be sure to answer the challenge. But since we heard him last, he has gone no doubt over the brow of the mountain, on the other side where the sound can- not reach him. It is of no use to wait any longer." So up we got and went further. We stopped at a spot that overlooked the whole dell and gave a good view of the steep mountain-side facing us. "We may perhaps see a roebuck — it is not at all unlikely — the underwood there is a good covert for them," said Meier ; and jumping on the stump of a felled tree, which overhung the precipitous declivity, he gazed carefully around and below. But nothing was to be seen. The new laws which had been in force since the Revolution effectually prevented the chance of our seeing any game whatever: all was destroyed or driven away. Some goats only with tinkling bells round their necks were browsing here, and came near to look at us ; then on a sudden they sprang away, with a troop of white kids after them. As the young Jager stood on the block of wood, leaning on his staff, I could not but think how pic- turesque a group he and his dog made. The moun- tain stick was thrust forwards, forming one leg of a triangle, and his body the other, and on the top of it both hands were crossed, on which his chin rested. The ^^yjoppe hung loosely about him, his bare knees showed beneath the short leathern breeches, the rifle was slung at his back, and his dog sat at his feet watch- ing as steadily as he. As he leaned forward, supported by the firmly-planted pole, he was quite hanging over 32 CHAMOIS HUNTING. the depth below. The whole figure was motionless ; the eyes only turned from side to side, exploring every bush and prying into each shadowy nook, or running over those green patches among the trees where it was likely a roe might come to graze. I remember to have seen, when a child, a print in the Bible, of Jacob thus leaning on his staff; and I quite well remember too how much the figure pleased me, and how in the atti- tude there was for me a charm which I could not then account for*. And in some strange wise or other this picture was always associated in my mind with a sentence in 'Murray's Exercises:' "And Jacob wor- shiped his Creator leaning on the top of his stafi"." The Bible picture and the well-known words recurred at once to my mind ; and here I saw before me what my childish imagination had often dwelt on with in- definable, inexpUcable dehght. Since those days of childhood the boy had himself leant upon his staff" just as Jacob had done ; and thus too had, like him, worshiped his Creator amid the mighty works of His hands. We now went to the top of the hill. Below us was the lake, in all the freshness and brightness of early morning, and behind rose the rocky ridge of the Plan Berg, and behind this again other peaks covered * Nor am I much better able to do so now. In a figure tlius lean- ing there is an air of perfect repose, united however with power and strength; for you see the whole man before you standing at nearly full height; and though the attitude impresses one with rest, it indi- cates at the same time a readiness for action, which takes from it all appearance of slothful ease or of fatigue. AFTER THE GOOD STAG. with eternal snow. A look around, and then down- wards, and home. After having reported ourselves to the forester, it was arranged that on Monday we should start at five and try for a chamois. However, on Monday the weather was unfavourable, and other cir- cumstances also prevented me from stalking on that day. So packing a few things in my rucksack, I set >if across the mountains for Eischbachau. 34 CHAPTER IV. THE STAG IN THE RUTTING SEASON. Having alluded to the stag during the rutting season, it is as well perhaps to add a few words on this subject for the information of those uninitiated in the mysteries of woodcraft. On the Feast of St. Egidius, 1st of September, the rutting season is said to begin. Thus it is, at least, ac- cording to the old sayings of those practised in the noble art of Venerie. The stag leaves the deep re- cesses of the forest and comes forth to the skirts of the woods, and is seen even by day in the glades and cop- pices. The good pasture of the summer months has made him sleek, and the blood begins to flow through his full veins with a more impetuous current. Like the youth who has bloomed into manhood, and who looks around him with a brighter eye than hereto- fore, the stag now gazes dauntlessly in all the pride of vigorous strength, and his bold front seems almost to challenge to the attack. He who ere this has THE STAG IN THE RUTTING SEASON. dwelt like a recluse in the forest solitudes, now comes forth into the noonday world ; away he bounds, and before the morning dawns he is in another territory : he has traversed the valleys and has toiled up the steep mountain-sides, and, bearing away for the well- known open glade in the beech-forest, has reached it before the hinds have brushed the dew from the grass in retreating to their covert*. ML And thus, year after year perhaps, will a stag be seen at a certain spot at this particular season, al- though he is absent the whole year beside. Not only is the distance he travels, but the speed also with which he traverses the ground, astonishing. His pace is a sort of ambling trot, nor does he skim over the ground at full speed except when the foe is nigh ; in- deed at this season a stag could not maintain such pace long, he being too well-conditioned, and his broad back and sides too heavy, for the exertion of a stride like the courser's when careering over the plain ; and though the poet may, with undisputed license, describe him as galloping along, he never does so except when suddenly scared and when hotly pursued. And indeed in his other pace there is beauty too, and more of * Since these words were written I have met with a very graceful allusion to the deer being out at early morning, in the poems of M. t^bievius, translated by E. C. Coxe. " Friendly dews ! with faithful guiding Show where roving, feeding, loving, Sought the stag at last his hiding. Cautious through the covert moving ! Show your king the cloven horn. Gentle dews of early mom!" d2 36 CHAMOIS HUNTING. majesty. Though retreating before some danger, there is no ignoble haste or precipitancy in his flight. With front erect and steady eye he moves over the ground, seeming hardly to touch the earth, so lightly does he step along ; and in his vi^hole mien and bearing he is " every inch a king." At the usual time he suddenly appears amid his old haunts and his former loves. Until now a troop of hinds only vrere to be seen by the hunter who watched for them at morning or at evening, with the calves of this, and the fawns of last year ; but now on the skirts of the herd he sees — or at first thinks he sees — a pair of branching antlers towering in the air ; and behold ! the monarch is indeed returned. He has added another embattlement to his crown since he was last seen ; in stature too he is changed, and well indeed may he claim, irrespective of his diadem, to be called " a royal hart.'* But how difierent now his look from that time when he disappeared in the wilderness ; like the prodigal, who, with wasted strength and but a wreck of his former self, skulks away that he may be seen by none. How worn and broken down did he leave the scenes of all his pleasures, and how vigorous and in what gal- lant trim does he i-eturn ! Should a rival dare to loiter about the spot, he goes forth to meet him, to do battle for his rights ; to maintain them or be vanquished in the encounter. No knight, burning to achieve a deed of chivalry, ever charged down upon a foe with more valiant daring than will he, when he &ees approach- ing the antlers of some new wooer tossing in the air THE STAG IN THE RUTTING SEASON. 37 and seeming to defy him to combat. Nor does the challenge remain unanswered: with his brow-antlers lowered like a lance in the rest, he rushes on the foe, and lucky is the intruder if he can ward the thrust ; for should it penetrate his ribs or shoulders he would —most surely pay for his temerity with his life*. " When once the stag has joined the hinds he does not quit them. He walks continually round and round the herd, keeping them together and preventing even a single one from leaving him. A stag will some- times have twelve, jGifteen, twenty, or even more hinds with him, and proudly but despotically he moves among them, Hke a sultan in his serail. His blood is boiling in his full veins; his passion consumes him, and he flies to the pool, not to assuage his thirst, but to cool the fire that is burning within him. He rolls in the shallow water and lays himself in the slimy bed ; and when he rises reeking from the mire, his back and sides and throat are covered with it, and the long hair of his neck is matted together like a thick and tangled mane. He eats little or nothing now. Ever and anon he stands still, and by a low, deep, hollow sound, * It is not more than three weeks since the day on which I write this (December 5th), that a young stag, one of six only, rushed upon another, and striking his brow-antlers into his side killed him on the spot. It was a strange occurrence, on account of its being late in the season ; had it been a month earlier there would have been nothing surprising in it. During the rutting season however the weaker stags are kept away from the herd by the stronger ones ; and when these go, the younger ones then take their place, and are in their turn as fierce and as jealous of an intruder as their more potent rivals were before them. 38 CHAMOIS HUNTING. that seems to come from his very inmost being, and tells of consuming pain and longing, will he give vent to the feelings that goad and torture him. I know no sound to which I could liken it, though I can imi- tate it well. It is not a roar, nor a bellowing, but a rumbling sound, approaching perhaps nearer to a deep long-drawn-out groan than aught else, which at last is, as it were, hurled forth two or three times, in a short, quick, impatient manner. At early morning, while the stars are still watching, you may hear the hollow tone from the hill-side, and, if you do not know what it is, might perchance fancy it came from the bowels of the earth, and that the mountain was in- wardly convulsed by elements at strife with each other. Indeed I imagine that an incipient volcano would make some such noise. The throat of the stag swells now to an unusual size. Week after week goes by, and his appearance at last gives tokens of his spendthrift waste of strength and of wild excess. His once sleek sides are sunken in, his broad back has dwindled into narrowness, and a sharp ridge is visible along its length. The haunches that were so full and rounded have hollows in them, the head is no longer stately and erect, nor in the creature's whole mien and bearing is there more of pride and majesty. The voice has grown thick and husky, and a hoarse sound, void of strength or full- ness, is uttered at distant intervals. Senility has taken the place of youth; and of strength, decrepi- tude. At such time it is comparatively easy to get THE STAG IN THE RUTTING SEASON. 39 near the stag, for he sees and hears nothing, and, if I may use the expression, is reduced almost to a state of imbeciUty. I have myself crept along the ground, and got from bush to bush until I was near enough to have brought him down with a pistol-shot. It is in truth astonishing that the stag should be so long-lived as he is ; for the whole year through, with the exception of at most two months, he is either taxing his nature to the utmost, or striving to recruit his strength through an inclement and unpropitious season. The rutting is over ; and now, with lantern body and but the ghost of his former self, he has the raw winter months before him. There is no green pastm*age where he may appease the cravings of his hunger ; the ground is covered with deep snow ; nor can he get at the young corn, which, were it not thus hidden, would furnish a most dainty banquet. He is obliged to have recourse to the rind of the young trees, and to nibble the tips of the last shoots and twigs. Poor nourishment this for a famished worn- out creature ! yet till the spring-time comes it is all he has to feed on. And hardly has he recovered himself a little, when nature demands of him an immense exertion: his antlers fall off close to his head, and another pair, even higher and stronger than those just lost, are to supply their place. And this opera- tion is not a work of time, proceeding slowly and with gradual development ; but, by a strong effort, of rapid, nay almost sudden, growth. In three months the stag has put forth his branching antlers again ; 40 CHAMOIS HUNTING. and this time too the stems are thicker than before, and on each is one point more than the preceding year. When we think of the comparatively slow rate at which a hothouse plant, with all possible care and forcing, expands in growth, or a child or other young animal increases in stature, we can hardly comprehend the productive power that, in so short a time, should be able to force into existence an excrescence of such size and weight, demanding too for its nourishment the noblest juices — the sap and very marrow of the body. Yet so it is. Erom the stag's head, " shorn of his beam," the young shoot springs up, and like a sapling buds and puts forth a branch, and then another and another. Upwards still it rises ; and the thick stem divides on high into more taper branchings, forming as they cluster together a rude mural crown. At the extremities all is soft and tender, porous, and with much blood. Over the whole, to preserve it from injury until it has grown firm and hard, is a thick velvet covering; and not until all beneath can bear expo- sure to the air does this fall off. When first got rid of, the antlers are as white as ivory, but they soon acquire their usual darker hue. It is now summer, and the stag revels in abundance. He roams through the woods and enjoys the glorious time in quiet luxury. But as was said before, this is of short duration : the Feast of St. Egidius is at hand, and his life of slothful ease is at an end. 41 OHAPTEE V. A WALK TO FISCHBACHAU. The young forester Meier was going to see his father, who lived at the foot of the Peissenberg ; and as my road over the Kiihzagel Alp passed his house, we set off together. " Well, Meier," I asked at parting, " are you sure I shall find the way ?" "You can't miss it. To the top of the mountain 'goes a road; a little way up is a bridge; do not cross it, but keep straight on. Higher up you will [eome to a place where there are three roads — take the middle one, it leads downwards, and then you have the mountain stream beside you all the way.'' " Well, adieu ! and by the time I come back look out for the chamois." I Now it is a very easy matter for one who knows a road by heart, to tell another of paths to the right and to the left, and that he is not to choose this, but is to take that ; and as you listen you at last get 42 CHAMOIS HUNTING. inoculated with a notion of its easiness, and allow yourself to commit the folly of starting off alone. But once in the wood the pathway is hardly discernible, and across the mountain-top there is no trace of foot- steps to be seen ; so at last you come to a stand, fully convinced of having done a very foolish thing. Por years I flattered myself with the belief of possessing in a superlative degree the organ of locality ; and it is only after having more than once missed my way in the forest and on the mountain, and discovered my reckoning to be almost always wrong, that this crotchet of mine has been given up, and the acknow- ledgment forced from me that there is as much chance of my going astray in this physical world, as in the one where we are apt to take our passions for guide- posts. Once, when lagging behind my companions, I lost my way on the mountains ; and after having traversed a space which no one would have credited but for my description of some peculiar features of a remote spot reached while thus wandering, I was at length fortunate enough to see afar ofi" an old human being who, on my forcing him to go with me, put me on the right track. Had I not found that poor weather-beaten creature just then, my bones would now be lying up amongst those heights. In the mountains all is on so large a scale, the stranger is constantly deceiving himself as to distance. A trifling change of position, too, makes everything look quite different. In descending from an eminence the forms selected as landmarks are at once lost sight A WALK TO FISCHBACHAU. 43 ^of; on getting nearer to the foot of the mountains the seemingly narrow valley opens into breadth : hill, mound, dell, all unperceived till now, start into sight ; you become confused by a multitude of objects not calculated on before, and, having already perhaps de- viated from the straight line to evade a precipice or to cross a torrent, are wholly at a loss what direction to take. You look back to reconnoitre the ground and find your starting-point. But it is not to be found : all is changed; other forms are seen up against the sky; no single feature that was there before is now to be recognized. You turn round and ask yourself if in coming downwards yonder peak with snow was not on your right, and you are not sure of the answer, for there is another very Hke it where snow is also lying: — how then distinguish between them? And if you determine to go straight on toward the dis- tant ridge, on getting there at last after two hours' desperate chmbing, all again is like an unknown land, and not a single mountain-top that forms part of the new horizon have you ever beheld before. Landmark you have none — the few you had are now irrecoverably lost. There you stand in vast space, utterly helpless. Far, far around you rise those sharp lines against the sky which bounds your present world. How gladly would you look into the space beyond, and strive to catch at hope ! But this "beyond" is shut out from you as impenetrably as that vague unknown which is beyond the grave. And you still keep your look fixed on those impassable barriers : a strange irresistible 44 CHAMOIS HUNTING. power seems to rivet your staring eyes upon them, and you gaze on with awe, and dread, and longing ! Ay, with awe ! for they stand before you, those huge forms, in overpowering, unparticipating stillness. All is motionless. Nothing stirs that forms a part of them. A shadow may flit across their face, but that is an extra- neous thing, and when it has swept by, there they are, still in the same cold, rigid imperturbability. If only a tree were there, with its softer outline, and its boughs, though not moving, at least conveying the feeling that they might move, as being a thing with life ! But no, the hard lines of those fixed features are unrelieved by one milder form ; stillness, unwaning stillness, sits on them everlastingly, like Death ! And yet you gaze on them with longing ; — the longing that with yoiu* vision you could penetrate what is beyond. It is a yearning such as the soul feels to know of that "other side" which will be seen only after death. On the finest day too the mists will suddenly arise, wrapping all in their flowing cloud-like folds. When thus overtaken in the mountains by dense fog, if it last you may look upon it as your shroud. In crossing the barren heights of the Valtelline, I remember to have met, on the summit, a little altar raised by friendly hands from the stones which lay strewn around, in a niche of which shone a human skuU and a heap of bones. They had belonged to a contrabandista, who, while smuggling his wares across this scene of desolation, had been overtaken by the mists sweeping upward from the valley, and, unable A WALK TO FISCHBACHAU. 45 to proceed, had sat down and been frozen to death. m* On such occasions," said my guide, " nothing is to be done but to He down and die." Long after having passed the monument I could see, on looking back, the white bones gleaming in the sun-light, for the ele- —jnents had bleached them to a snowy whiteness. P In going to Fischbachau, however, there was no fear of my becoming the hero of a " lamentable occur- rence" in the columns of a newspaper, or of having an eiv voto erected to my memory. I lost my way however, as might very well have been expected ; but I regained it after awhile, and came upon the road that leads from Schher See. The rain had now ceased, and the sun looked out cheerily and with his very brightest smile, as if determined to make amends for not having shown himself earher. Schlier See was before me, a little island in the middle of its clear waters, and which, from its glittering brightness, might, for aught I know, have risen out of the lake just before I came. I looked at it a long time, for its beauty and freshness reminded me of England. The forester's house at Fischbachau had once been a cloister; and the clergyman of the parish still inhabited one half the building. The corridor was filled with rows of antlers, and the sitting-room of the family was decorated in the same appropriate manner. All round the top were ranged the bent horns of the chamois; below these the more majestic antlers of the stag; and lower down, interspersed also at in- tervals among the others, were those of the roebuck. 46 CHAMOIS HUNTING. The windows were filled with ivy and creeping plants, and these trailed along from antler to antler and hung down in careless festoons, or they were twined round the frames hanging on the walls with engraved por- traits in them, among which I recognized some well- known faces. At the further end of the room was a row of rifles and fowling-pieces, with here a strangely- fashioned powder-flask or cramping-irons for the feet in winter; on a nail hung the riicksack, the green hat above it with a gay flower on its brim ; while a guitar in a corner, and a cithern on a table, gave evidence of gentler pastime than the chase affords. But the neatness and the creeping evergreens had already told of feminine care that presided here. All was as simple as possible, but the place looked com- fortable, and everything was deliciously clean. Having changed my wet clothes, I returned and talked with the forester. " It is no pleasure now," he said, " to have to do with the chase. I do not like even to think about it. The mountains opposite — those you see from the windows — were full of chamois, the Mie- sing especially. Erom this room you might often with a telescope see thirty or forty together ; and now on the whole mountain there are perhaps not twenty." " And there were stags, too ?" I asked. " Stags and roes in abundance. But now all are shot. The peasants shoot everything. There," said he, pointing to the antlers between the windows, " is the last stag that Berger, my assistant forester, shot. It was a good one, as you see, and I have put up the A WALK TO FISCHBACHAU. 47 antlers in remembrance, for I dare say he will never rhoot another — it will be his last." "It is hardly credible/' I observed, "that in so short a time almost every head of game should have been exterminated. It is very sad, for it would take I a long time to have all again as it once was." " No, it is not surprising when you think that the game had never any rest. Day after day it was dis- turbed, shot at, scared and driven from place to place. The peasants did not get much, for if they wounded a stag or chamois they had no good dog to follow it with, and so it was generally lost. And all game must have quiet, — that is as indispensable as food. A great part therefore went across to the Tyrol ; and the gamekeepers too shot all they could, rather than let the peasants get it." And then he told me how he used to go into the mountains, and would sit for hours and watch the chamois and the young kids as they disported them- selves on the green slopes, or stood upon the rocks and leaped from crag to crag ; but now, he said, he would go up there no more, for all his pleasure in doing so I was gone, and his occupation rejoiced him no longer*. I * In a letter received from the worthy forester since this was [written, he says : — " Although late in the autumn, after you were bone many chamois collected here again. I much doubt if we shall «ee any next summer, for the poor creatures that are now looking for their winter haunts are so scared and hunted about, that their utter extermination must be the consequence. No one can possibly teU. the pain aU this causes me ; and I therefore never express what I feel to any one but a hunter, and one who loves the chase, and of whom I am persuaded beforehand that he will understand and sym- pathize with what I suffer." 48 CHAMOIS HUNTING. I already knew what excellent hunting-grounds all this neighbourhood afforded; for though it belonged to the Crown the whole mountain range had been rented by one of my friends, who, by carefully pre- serving the game for a year or two, and by the excellent order he maintained, had greatly enhanced the value of the chase. He had his own foresters stationed in all parts; young active fellows, and moreover excel- lent chamois-hunters, who understood their duty well, and did it. Just as all was in high perfection and the game abundant, those political changes took place which gave the right of shooting to every individual of the community. In order somewhat to diminish his pecuniary losses, my friend Count Arco, to whom the chase belonged, ordered that the game should be shot by his own people rather than by the poachers; and venison became so plentiful that it fetched but three- pence, twopence, and even a penny a pound*. But in the plain it was exactly the same. In the exten- sive forests of the Prince of Tour and Taxis, with whom * The circumference of the chase was about sixty English miles. The Count calculated that in a few years he w^ould be able to shoot there every year three hundred roebucks, eighty (warrantable) stags, and one hundred chamois. It must however be said, that there is not a better sportsman to be found than Count Arco, and that such a state of things could only be brought about in so short a time by his excellent management. He had twenty-four gamekeepers, all picked men, fellows as fearless and daring as they were excellent hunters. In the short time that the chase was in the Count's hands, they had shot seven poachers in conflicts with them. One of the keepers, he who had killed four, was himself shot soon afterwards at Berchtesgaden. The neighbourhood of the Tyrol was the cause of this influx of poachers. They would come across the frontier at the Kaiser Klause and Fallep, and were at once on Bavarian territory. A WALK TO FISCHBACHAU. 4§ I have enjoyed the privilege of shooting for the last ten years, all the red-deer have been destroyed. From forty-five to fifty-two or fifty-three good stags were shot every season, and now there are not half-a-dozen in the whole forest range. Although the peasantry may occasionally have had to complain of the super- abundance of game in the lowlands, there could be ^no excuse for this total destruction of the chamois, which from its habits could do no possible injury to the crops of the husbandman. The higher mountains were their dwelling-place, and the herbs they found on their green sides, with the young sprouts of the latschen*, afforded them nourishment. But the in- toxication caused by the possession of a new right blinded the peasantry even to their own profit and advantage; and rather than let a chase for a good price, as is done with the moors in Scotland, they harried the game, and, having depopulated the moun- tains, find at last that what might have proved a con- stant source of profit and pleasure is now thoroughly exhausted. But excess characterizes every social revo- lution. It is, too, the very spirit all proscriptions that they be carried on unrelentingly, and with a view * Latschen — Pinus Pumilio — is a sort of pine found on the moun- tains, growing on their barren sides or ou,t of the crevices of the rocks. It does not at once grow upwards, but creeps along the ground for some distance before its branches rise perpendicularly. Its foliage is dense and bushy, and forms a good covert for the game. This shrub might be called " The Hunter's Friend," for on its boughs he may always rely, as they never break with the strongest pull. He must only be careful not to bend them, for then they snap at once. E 50 CHAMOIS HUNTING. to extermination; and the red-deer and chamois be- came suddenly a proscribed race; a ban was upon them, and none escaped but those that fled into the deepest recesses of the forest, or sought an asylum among the inaccessible fastnesses of the mountains. Their names stood first on the dread list of the victims who were to fall ; and so the people rose with a shout to take their life indiscriminately wherever they might find them. The assistant forester was not at home; nothing therefore was to be learned about the probability of getting a shot. He had been out on the mountains for several days, but was expected home that evening. While at supper we learnt that he was returned, and a little later, after having changed his dress, he made his appearance. *'Well, Berger, good evening!" said the kind old head forester, as he entered ; " you have had bad wea- ther — eh? Now, sit down. What have you seen?" " On the Wendelstein yesterday I saw a good cha- mois buck at about two hundred yards distant. I could only just see the haunch, but still I would have fired, only I had not set the hair-trigger." " And you met nobody ?" " No, all is quiet. It was terribly cold up on the Wendelstein, and the weather has been as bad as it could be." " Well, Berger, do you think there is any likelihood of getting a shot at a chamois when the weather clears I ^ISCHBAC] " Yes ; chamois are there, that 's certain ; and on the Miesing is the best place/' he said, turning to me. " We '11 go up the Steinberg, and then stalk up the steep part near the latschen. I think we are pretty sure of a shot, — if only all has been quiet, and no poachers have been there to disturb them." " Well, if the rain ceases and the weather clears, we will start tomorrow early. When you are ready, call me." At least twenty times that day I had been to the window, peering, or rather trying to peer, through the clouds of mist, to see if no blue sky were visible. Sometimes the heads of the opposite mountains — the Klein Miesing, the Jager Kamm, and others — would show themselves just above the gloomy mantle whose undulating folds floated around them; but then the spirit of the storm would come sweeping on to recover his supremacy, bringing up an array of dim clouds from the chasms that divided the mountains, and soon all was again enveloped in impenetrable gloom. It had rained the whole of that day and the preceding night in sullen perseverance, and there seemed no hope of change ; when in the afternoon the wind gave sign of his approach, for fragments of mist like flying banners came hurrying past, and bearing down on the cohorts of clouds that had, till now, in sturdy masses defied the sun, tore great rents through them, and sent them flying in all directions. How glad we were of his victory, and how we rejoiced to see the scattered rem- nants of that vast army of clouds trying in vain to E 2 52 CHAMOIS HUNTING. re-assemble ! The strong wind put them utterly to the rout. We now saw that snow had fallen on the tops of the mountains. Over the flat land the sun was again visible, and there was every prospect of fine weather on the morrow. We looked out again at night, and the firmament was strewn with stars. What more could we desire ? CHAPTER VI. UP THE MIESUSTG. The morning was clear and bright, and not a breath of wind was stirring, — an essential thing for the cha- mois hunter ; for if the air be not calm, all his skill, perseverance, and daring will avail him nothing. At best even it is difficult to calculate on the gusts that will sometimes come suddenly rushing up a chasm, or sweeping downwards just as he gets round the shoulder of a mountain. Thus, when he thinks all is won, and he rejoices in his panting heart at the suc- cess which is about to crown his labour, the taint of his presence will be borne along on the rippling air, and the herd on whom for the last hour his longing eye has been so intently fixed looks round affrighted, conscious of the neighbourhood of an enemy, utters a shrill whistle, and, mounting over the sharp ridge of an opposite mountain, is seen for one moment in bold relief against the sky, and then disappears on the other side. But we had no cause to fear that our hopes would be marred by such a circumstance. 54 CHAMOIS HUNTING. Whilst I breakfasted Berger got ready the rifles ; for not having calculated on being able to go out here, I had not brought mine with me. We went past the little chapel of Birkenstein, whither many a pilgrim resorts, and on through pleasant meadows shut in by gentle slopes covered with wood. And now we emerge into a broad valley, and before us is the Miesing, and to the left the Wendelstein, with its high conical summit, whence, according to the song, may be seen the two tall church towers* "of the great city where the King dwells." It is a striking feature in the mountain-chain, for, though not the highest of the peaks, it seems to be so, rising as it does abruptly and and alone. A few cottages were clustered together beside a stream at no great distance from our path, and cattle were grazing in the several fields, while a little peasant boy poured forth his orisons, for such I took his gladsome song to be, in that fair temple not built by human hands. As we went along, the neighbouring mountains suggested many a tale of interest to the hunter. "There," said Berger, pointing to a wood on our right half-way down the hill-side, — " there, two years ago, was a stag of sixteen. Such a stag ! his antlers were splendid ; and what a size he was !" "And who shot him?" I asked. " That I don't know. The foresters saw him often, and could have shot him many a morning had they liked; but Count Arco had given strict orders to * Of the cliui'cli of Our Lady in Municli. I UP THE MIESING. 55 forbid them, and at last he was seen no more. He disappeared suddenly, — most likely the poachers got him. It was such a hart as will not often be seen." And some distance further on : — " Up yonder to the left, quite at the top of the mountain, I one day shot three chamois." " How did you manage that ?" " Why, first I shot two, right and left ; and then, knowing where the others would cross the mountain, I ran forward to meet them, and sure enough they came as I expected, and just as I was re-loading too. I was ready with one barrel, and shot a third. Had I thought of my pistol I might have brought down a fourth, for one stood not twenty paces from me." " What !" I asked, " do you carry a pistol with you?" "Yes, always," he replied, drawing a double-bar- relled revolver (with four barrels) out of his pocket : "one must always be prepared for whatever may happen; and with that, if I only have a place to lean against, I should not mind one or two." "But do the poachers attack you if you do not begin with them ?" " Their hearts are set on the Jagers' guns : their own are not good for much, and they know that ours are, and they would rather get one of them than al- most anything. And they 'd give us a good thrashing too, if they could," he added, laughing; "and you know to be half beaten to death is not so very agree- able. Besides, if you meet with such fellows in a 56 CHA.MOIS HUNTING. hut, where everything is so close together, and there is httle room to move, you cannot do much with a rifle, it 's too long — in close quarters like that a pistol may do good service." "But how did you bring down your three cha- mois r " One I put in my riicksack, and the other two, as there was snow on the ground, I dragged down. On the Wendelstein' once I shot a chamois, and after- wards a roebuck. The chamois I put in the sack, and the buck across it over my shoulders. One can carry almost anything so, and capitally too." We now came to the broad path or mountain way that leads up the Miesing, made to enable the wood- cutters to bring down the wood in winter, as well as for the cattle which in the summer months are driven up to the high pasturages. Beside us, on our left, a clear stream was falling over the blocks of stone that had tumbled into its channel, and beyond it rose, a wall of rock, well-nigh perpendicular, eight hundred feet or more. This was the Gems Wand, a famous place in other days ere the new laws had been put in force, and where, on ledges so narrow that it seemed a bird only might cling there for some moments, the chamois were always to be seen, standing at gaze or stepping carelessly along. But now the rock was indeed desolate. Over the face of this high wall of stone were scattered the friendly latschen, with here and there a pine that had been able to twist its roots into some gaping crevice. It was as nearly perpendi- UP THE MIESING. cular as might be, and, except that the strata of rock formed projecting ridges, there was hardly a footing to be obtained. However, if there are latschen one may cKmb almost anywhere. We stopped occasion- ally to look across with our glasses and scan its rocky face, in order to see if perchance a solitary buck were loitering there alone. But not a thing, animate or inanimate, was stirring. As I looked up at the preci- pice I observed to Berger, " To get along there would be no easy matter — eh ? What think you, could you manage it?" " I went along there some time ago, when out with Mr. * * *. He wounded a chamois, and it climbed upwards along the wall. It was difficult work, for there was nothing to hold on by ; and what grass I found was not firm, and gave way in my grasp. Once I was rather uncomfortable, for while hanging to the rock with both arms raised my rifle swung for- ward over my arm." " Ay, that is a horrid situation ; let go your hold Hyou dare not; and how to get the rifle back again one does not know either. When it swings down and knocks against the rock, it almost makes one lose all balance. The rifle is sadly in the way in such diffi- cult places. Without it " f "Oh, without it," said Berger, interrupting me, " one could go any and everywhere. Without it I could climb through the world. The rifle makes an immense difference. But, as I was saying, at last I got up and reached the chamois. The coming down. 58 CHAMOIS HUNTING. was the worst part. However, I took another way than in going up. I pulled off my shoes, for you can then feel your ground better, and take hold of every little projection vdth your toes." " But that must have hurt you terribly ?" " No ; I was then accustomed to go barefoot, and would formerly much rather have climbed so than down with thick nailed shoes on. Once before I came down yonder wall from over the ridge : it was ugly work, I can tell you. We drove the game that day, and I had to go over the top and roll down stones to make the chamois cross to the other side." We had now wound upwards for about an hour, when we left the path and turned off to our right among some latschen and huge blocks of stone. We had not gone many yards when Berger dropped to the earth, as though a shot had passed through his heart. He raised his finger to indicate silence, his eyes were opened wide with expectation, and his lips drawn apart as if uttering a " Hush !" though not a breath passed over them. We cowered behind the stones, and he whispered, "There are chamois!" We crept on a little further; the end of my pole shod with iron touched a stone and made the metal slightly ring. Berger turned round with a reproving look, and made me a sign to exchange mine for his, which was not shod. We advanced and lay behind a bush, and drew out our glasses. Five chamois were there, graz- ing on the slope, skirted by a wood. Berger's whole frame was alive with expectation ; his face wore quite UP THE MIESING. 59 a different expression to what it had before ; his eyes seemed larger, his body more supple, his powers of [motion other than in everyday Hfe — the whole crea- ture was changed. " Now then," he said, " come along, quick und schon stadT (quickly and nicely quiet). We moved on, but a breath of air stirred, and they must have got wind of us, for they began to move towards the wood, and soon disappeared within it. There was now nothing to be done but to go round and get above them, for it was late, and the current of air had alreafly set in from below. Just as we had reached the top I heard a shght rustle, and stopped to listen ; when in an instant there was a rushing down the steep and over the broken ground as of an animal in full flight. By the step I was sure it was deer (hinds), and said so to Berger. " They were not chamois — they made too much noise; nor was it the rush of a stag. It must have been a hind." " You are right," he cried ; " there they go ! I see them dovm below — ^two hinds — they heard us moving along above them." "Do you think they will take the chamois along with them?" "No, I think not. We shall most likely meet them further on; if not, we will sit and watch for them." This is one of the great difficulties of stalking in the mountains, — to do so almost unheard. Fragments of stone are lying about, latschen with their long trailing branches and dense foliage, or steep beds of 60 CHAMOIS HUNTING. GeroU*, cross your path, which the Hghtest step will set in motion, and yet you must advance quickly, and pick your way quite noiselessly. I always found the exertion and attention this required fatigued me more than climbing for a longer time when such cau- tion was unnecessary. As nothing more was to be seen of the five chamois we had met with on the Steinberg, we sat down and peered into the vast hollow that lay before us. Rising upwards to our left was barren rock, sharp and broken, grey, bare, and weather-beaten : it looked hoary with age. Where the rocks ceased to be perpendicular the geroll began, and continued far downwards, till here and there latschen began to show themselves. We sat in silence, examining with strained eyes every inch of ground, and looking down among the stunted bushes, and upwards among the crags, in hopes of seeing a chamois that might be lured forth by the cheering sun. From time to time, as one of us fancied that some spot at a distance looked like the object of his search, suddenly out flew the glass, and the other, full of hope and expectation, with eyes turned from the mountain-side to his comrade's face, would watch his countenance as he looked through the telescope, to learn, before he spoke, if a chamois * Geroll. Loose rolling stones on the side of a mountain, like the lava on the sides of a volcano. At every step the whole mass gives way beneath your tread, and sHdes downwards, carrying you with it. The difficulty therefore of crossing such Geroll without noise may be conceived. UP THE MIESING. 61 were there or not. He needed not to say, " 'T is no- thing !" the other saw this at once, by his expression. But when the glass remained up to the eye some seconds longer than usual, and the Jager, as he still looked, said, "'Tis chamois! there are three to- gether!" how exciting was the expectation. The glass of each would then instantly be turned in the same direction, to find the spot on which the hopes of both were now centred. " I have them ! One is at rest ; the one to the right is a yearhng, I think. Now it 's among the latschen ; now — now he has come forward again. What high horns that other one has !" Such are the remarks to be heard on these occa- sions, made in a subdued voice, uttered quickly, and broken into short sentences — mere ejaculations called forth by the stir of the emotion, by the feelings of the moment, and leaving no time for them to be fashioned into a connected form. But neither of us heard from the other such pleasant tidings ; and after having eaten a slice of brown bread and a morsel of goat's- milk cheese, we slung our* rifles over our shoulders, and each taking his staff went down the mountain. We looked around on all sides, but not a chamois was to be seen. Before us rose the Roth Wand, now (October 10th) covered with snow ; on a verdant patch of pasture-land where we stood was a solitary hut, long deserted ; and on the mountain-side, to our right, it seemed as if some fiend had dug his nails into the ground, and torn away from top to bottom all the earth that he could clutch. Right through the green 62 CHAMOIS HUNTING. latschen came a long broad strip of loose stones, some hundred feet in width. On going along at the foot of this geroU, Berger suddenly stopped ; and dropping behind a large block of stone, whispered, " There's a chamois !" High up among the debris a black spot was visible, and this was the chamois. We saw by our glasses that it was a yearling buck, and for a time watched him at our ease, as we lay on the ground protected by the frag- ment of fallen rock. It stood at gaze for a moment. "Does it see us?" I asked; "does it look this way r " No," said Berger ; " but the thing is, how to get near it. Up the stones we can't go — it will make too much noise; and if we cross over the crest of the mountain, and so work down towards him, it will be too far to fire. If we could only get up through the latschen I but I fear it is impossible, he would be sure to see us. However, let us try : be still, very stm." We were just on the point of making the attempt, when, on looking round to scan the sides of the Uoth Wand, I saw a chamois about five hundred feet below the summit, on a green spot quite free from snow, and at the foot of a wall of rock. "Hist, Berger! there are chamois!" "Where?" " Look up yonder ; don t you see them ?" " No." " Look, don't you see a black spot, right across UP THE MIESING. 63 to the right of the geroll and the snow. Now it moves ! There is another ! — one, two, three !" Mk "I see them now! Confound it, they see us! Let us ^nove on — don't stop or look ; keep away from them, up to the right." And up we went, keeping in a contrary direction, and then stopped among some large loose stones. " Look, Berger ! now you can see them well ; they are crossing the snow, but not quickly. What ! don't you see them ? Why now they are moving round the wall of rock that goes down quite perpendicularly; yet now I see but two, — ^where can the third be?" " Now I see them. Give me your glass : make haste and reach those latschen yonder; when once among them, all's right. I'll He here and watch them, and come after you directly. But for heaven's sake get up the geroll quietly, for if a stone move they'll surely hear it, though so far off; and be quick, and get among the latschen." Giving him my telescope, which was much the better one, I moved on over the slanting mass of loose stones. With body bent as low as possible I tried to creep noiselessly upwards. I dared not use my pole to steady myself, for the weight would have forced it among the loose rubble, and made as much or more noise than my footsteps occasioned. Taking it in my left hand, on which side also my rifle was slung, I steadied myseK with the right, and so at last reached some larger fragments of stone, which were firmer to the tread, and over which I could consequently get 64 CHAMOIS HUNTING. along more rapidly. The sheltering latschen were at length gained, and I flung myself down behind them, quite out of breath with excitement and from moving thus doubled up together. In this safe haven Berger soon joined me. " They are at rest," he said. " Now all 's right ! we have them now ! But how shall we get across ?" he asked, as he looked around to reconnoitre our position. " Yonder they'll see us ; we must pass over the ridge above, and go round and see if there is a way." This we did, and, once on the other side, kept just sufficiently low down to prevent oiu* heads being seen above the sky-line. But after advancing some hundred yards, we came to a spot where the ridge swept sud- denly downwards, forming a gap between us and the chamois. To proceed without being seen was impos- sible. On our right it was rather steep, but we were obliged to descend a good way, and then the same distance up again further on, in order to reach the Roth Wand unobserved. " Here we are at last ! Are they still at rest, Ber- ger? just look across through the branches of yonder latschen above you." " Yes, they are still there ! Now then, we must get to the pinnacle right over our heads, and then along the ridge, and so have a shot at them from above." The shoulder of the mountain where we stood was steep enough certainly, but it still presented sufficient inequalities to enable us to clamber up it. Elsewhere, UP THE MIESING. 65 except on this projecting buttress-like shoulder, the piieclivity was so steep as to be not many degrees from the perpendicular. I proposed therefore that we should choose this less steep ridge to reach the broken rocks above us, on whose jagged forms we might ob- tain a firm hold, and so creep upwards to the very crest of the mountain. ''Oh no," answered Berger ; fe' we dare not venture that : they would be sure to see us, for we should be quite unsheltered, and our bodies being thrown against the sky would be dis- tinctly visible. No, we must try yonder — up that lahne^J' pointing to the steep declivity before us, to see the summit of w^hich it was necessary to fling the head quite backwards. I confess it was not with the pleasantest feelings that I saw what we had un- dertaken ; for the slope was covered with snow, making the ascent doubly difficult, and upwards of two thousand feet below was a huge rocky chasm, into which I could look and calculate where I might at last stop, if my foot slipped and I happened to go sliding down. Where the lahne ended beds of loose stones began ; and, as if to remind one of their in- »stability, and how hopeless it would be to think of * Lahnen are smooth steep declivities covered with long grass. In the summer, when this rank h6rbage has been dried by the sun and air, it is so slippery that a firm footing is almost impossible ; and in winter such an ascent is not made more practicable by its covering of snow. When sUpping on such a lahne you shoot downwards as on one of those artificial mountains or sHdes which form a favourite amusement in Russia. They not unfrequently rise above a preci- pice ; a false step here, therefore, and a miracle only can save you from going over into the abyss. F 66 CHAMOIS HUNTING. holding fast even for a moment on their moving sur- face, there rose from minute to minute a low dull sound, made by some rolling stone, Avhich, set in motion by its own weight, went pattering downwards into the melancholy hollow. However, to stand looking upwards at the steep snowy surface of the mountain, or gazing at the depth below, was not the way to get a shot at the chamois ; so giving my rifle a jerk to send it well up behind my back, and leave the left arm free, I began to mount, keeping in an oblique direction in order to lessen the steepness of the ascent. Berger was before me, some- times on his hands and knees, sometimes on his feet, and looking every now and then anxiously behind to see what progress I made. Neither of us got on very fast, for a firm footing was impossible. If you slipped, down you came on your face, with both feet nowhere, and the rifle swinging over the left arm into the snow, most inconveniently. Once, when I was quite unable to plant either foot firmly, Berger, who was just above me, and had, as it seemed, a safe spot on which to stand, was obliged to let down his long pole that I might hold on by it, and, with his heels well dug into the ground, gave me a helping pull. We had mounted half-way when suddenly both my feet lost their hold on the snow, and somehow or other down I went over the steep declivity on my back, like an arrow sent from a strongly-drawn bow. It was disagreeable, for I knew how difficult it is to stop when once gliding at full speed down a lahne ; and all my en- UP THE MIESING. 67 deavours to do so, with help of my heels or my hands, were ineffectual. But I remembered the advice my friend Kobell had once given me : '' Should you ever be unlucky enough to slip when upon a lahne, tiu"n round so as to get on your stomach as quickly as possible, or else you are lost." While shooting down- wards therefore I turned, and grasping my stick, which was well shod with an iron point, I dashed it with all my force into the ground. It stuck fast ; I held on by it, and was stopped in my career. While gliding down, my eyes were turned upwards to Berger. I saw fright expressed on his countenance : our eyes met, but neither uttered a word. Only when I had ar- rested my farther progress, and was cautiously pre- paring to find a sure footing, he called out, " It was lucky you were able to stop — for heaven's sake be careful, it is dreadfully slippery." At last, by making a zigzag line, we reached the top of the lahne. Here were rocks by which we could hold, and getting amongst them came to a perpendicular wall about seven feet high. Its face was as straight as a plummet-line, but it was rough, so that some crevices were to be found which might serve as steps in passing over it. At its base was a small ledge, on which one person could stand, holding on with his own face and the face of the rock close against each other, and behind, below, was — what was not quite pleasant to think about. Berger got over first, having previously with one hand laid his rifle and pole on a ledge of rock above him to have both hands free. Handing up my L 68 CHAMOIS HUNTING. rifle to him, I followed ; and though the place seemed rather formidable, in reality it was easy enough to climb. As I stood on the ledge face to face with the perpendicular rock, I debated within myself whether I should look behind me or not. I knew that below and behind was nothing but air, and I decided on pro- ceeding without turning round; so I looked for the most favourable crack or roughness in the rock to make a first step, which moment of delay Berger at- tributed to indecision and to fear ; and stretching out his hand to me, he cried roughly, " Come, what are you thinking of? give me your hand, — that 's right. Now then !" He was wrong in his supposition, for I was neither undecided nor afraid, but he feared that if I grew alarmed I might let go my hold; and as the moment was critical he thought to rouse and reassure me by his manner, and by holding my hand firmly in his grasp. " Patience, Berger ! patience ! I shall be up in a second ; I am only looking for a place to put my foot on; don't think I am giddy. There, now I am up." And then one of us, lying down at full length, reached with one arm over the ledge of rock, to the spot below where the rifles and poles were lying- With bended bodies we now stole along the crest of the mountain as noiselessly as possible, for the cha- mois were below us on our left, just over the ridge. We presently looked over. I could not see them, on account of a projecting rock, but Berger whispered, "There they are! Quick! they are moving." Still . X y] oTTip v. TK . B or s c>i elt . &e