= i tr ~ ^ CAIIF(% fu 4? A I tO>S ^- J n s . \VU DNIVERS/A $\ J? CP C3 .^EUNIVERS/A <^v X^'& ^ >^^ CXT T C and its productions Remarks re [petting thefouth eafl part of Terra del Fuego, and the Streight of Le Maire Directions for the paffage weftward round this part of America, into the South Seas The paffage of the Endeavour from Cape Horn to the newly dif covered iflands-r-An account of their figure and appearance The inhabitants defer ibed; with a nar- rative of the various incidents during the courfe, and on the Endeavour s arrival among them. ON the 8th of December, 1768, having procured all neceffary fupplies, we took our departure from Rio de Janeiro ; and on the pth an amazing number of atoms were taken out of the fea. Thefc were of a yellowifh colour, and few of them were more than the 5th part of an inch long; nor could the beft microfcope on board the Endeavour difcover whether they belonged to the vegetable or animal .creation. The fea was tinged in fuch a manner with thefe equivocal fubftances, as to exhibit broad ftreaks of a fimilar colour, for near the fpace of a mile in, Jength, and for feveral hundred yards in breadth. Whence they came, or for what defigned, neither Mr. Banks nor Dr. Solander could determine. Per- haps they might be the fpawn of fome marine ani-^ mal, unknown to either antient or modern philo- fophers. On the i ith we hooked a mark. It proved to be a female. When opened we took fix young ones out q 2 it. 30 C O K *S FIRST VOYAGE it, five of which were alive, and fwam brilkly in a tub of water, but the lixth appeared to have been dead feme time. From this time we met with no material occurrence till the 2 2d, when we difcovered numerous birds of the prolillaria kind, in latitude 39 deg. 37 min. fouth, and longitude 49 deg. 16 min. weft; we alfo difcovered great numbers of porpoifes of a fingular fpecies, of about 15 feet in length, and of an am co- lour. On the 23d we obferved an eclipfe of the moon , and about feven o'clock in the morning, a fmall white cloud appeared in the weft, from which a train of fire iflued, extending itfelf wefterly : about two minutes after, we heard two diftincl loud explo- iions, immediately fucceeding each other, like thofe of cannon, after which the cloud difappeared. On the 24th we caught a large loggerhead tortoife, weighing one hundred and fifty pounds. We like- wife mot feveral birds, one an albetrofs, which mea- fured between the tips of its wings nine feet and an inch, and from its beak to the tail two feet one inch and an half. On the ^oth we ran upwards of fifty leagues, through vaft numbers of land infects; fome in the air, and others upon the water ; they appeared to referable exactly the flies that are feen in England, though they were thirty leagues from land, and fome of thefe infects are known not to quit it beyond three yards. At this time we judged ourfelves to be nearly pppofite to the bay called Sans Fond (without bottom) where it is fuppofed by fome writers, that the conti- nent of America is divided by a paffage; but it was the opinion of our circumnavigators, that there might be a large river, which probably had occafioned an inundation. On the gift we had much thunder, lightning and rain. This day and the three following, we faw feveral whales; likewife a number of birds about the fize of a pigeon, with white bellies and grey beaks. Un the 3d of January, 1769, we faw the appear* ance of land, in latitude 47 cleg. 17 min. fouth, and longitude ROUND THE WORLD. 31 longitude 61 deg. 29 min. 45 fee. weft, which we miftook for Pepy's ifland* In appearance it fo much refembled land, that we bore away for it ; and it was near two hours and an half before we were convinced, that it was one of thofe deceptions which failors call a Fog-bank. At this time our feamen beginning to complain of cold, they were furnifhed with a pair of trovvfers, and a Magellanic jacket, made of a thick woollen ftuff called Fearnought. On the i ith, after having paffed Falkland's Ifland, we faw the coaft of Terra del Fuego, at the diftance of about four leagues from the weft to fouth-eaft by fouth. As we ranged along the ihore to the fouth-eaft, fmoke was perceived, made, probably, by the natives as a fignal, for it was not to be feen after we had paffed by. On the 1 4th we entered the Streight of Le Maire, but were afterwards driven out again with fuch vio- lence (the tide being againft us) that the fhip's bow- fprit was frequently under water. At length, how- ever, we got anchorage in a fmall cove, on the eaft of Cape St. Vincent, the entrance to which our cap- tain named St. Vincent's Bay. The weeds which grow here upon rocky ground are very remarkable ; they appear above the furface in eight and nine fathoms water. The leaves are four feet in length ; and many of the ftalks, though not more than an inch and a half in circumference, above one hundred. Dr. Solander and Mr. Banks went on ftiore, where, having continued fourhours, they returned about nine in the evening, with upwards of an hundred different plants and flowers, of which none of the European botanifts had taken any notice near this bay. The country in general was flat, and the bottom, in par- ticular, was a g^affy plain. Here was plenty of wood, water, and fowl, and winter bark was found in great plenty. The trees appeared to be a fpecies of the birch, but neither large nor lofty. The wood was white, and they bore a fmall leaf. White and red cranberries were found in thefe parts. On 2 COOK'S FIRST On the 1 8th we came to an anchor in twelve fathom water, upon coral rocks, before a fmall cove, at the diflance of about a mile from the ihore. At this time two of the natives came down upon the beach, as if they expected that the ftrangers would land 5 but as there was no flicker hefc, the fhip was got under fail again, and the Indians retired difappointed. The fame afternoon about two o'clock, we came into the bay of Good Succefs, and the veflel coming to an anchor, the captain went on fhore, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, in order to fearch for a watering place, and difcourfe with the Indians, Thefe gentlemen had not proceeded above one hun- dred yards before the captain, when two of the In* dians that had feated themfelves rofe up, and threw away the fmall fticks which they held in their hands, as a token of amity. They afterwards returned to their companions, who had remained at fome diftance behind them, and made figns to their guefts to ad- vance, whom they received in a friendly, though un- couth manner. In return for their civility, lome ribbands and beads were diftributed among them* Thus a fort of mutual confidence was eftabiifhed, and the reft of the Engliih joined the party, the Indians con verfmg with them in their way, in an amicable man- ner. Capt. Cook and his friends took three of them to the fhip, drefled them in jackets, and gave them bread and other provifions, part of which they carried on Ihore with them ; but they refufed to drink rum or brandy, making figns that it burned their throats, as their proper drink was water. One of thefe people made feveral long and loud fpeeches, but no part of them was intelligible to any of us. Another ftole the covering of a globe, which he concealed under his garment that was made of fkin. After having re- in .ined on board about two hours, they returned on fhore, Mr. Banks accompanying them. He conducted tac-m to their companions, who feemed no way curious to know what their friends had ieen, and the latter \vere RoutfD THE WORLD. 33 Were as little difpofed to relate, as the former were to enquire. None of thefe people exceeded five feet ten inches in height, but their bodies appeared large and robult, though their limbs were fmall. They had broad flat faces, high cheeks, nofes inclining to flatnefs, wide -noftrils, fmall black eyes, large mouths, fmall, but in- different teeth, and ftraight black hair, falling down over their ears and foreheads, the latter being generally fmeared with brown and red paints, and like all the original natives of America, they were beardlefs. Their garments were the &ins of feals and guanicoes, which they wrapped round their flioulders. The men like- wife wore on their heads a bunch of yarn, which ftll over their foreheads, and was tied behind with the finews or tendons of fome animals. Many of both fexes were painted on different parts of their bodies with red, white, and brown colours, and had alfo three or four perpendicular lines pricked acrofs their cheeks and nofes. The women had a fmall ftring tied round each ancle, and each wore a flap of ikin fattened round the middle. They carried their children upon their backs, and were generally employed in domeftic labour and drudgery. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, attended by their fer- vants, fet out from the Clip on the i6th, with a delign of going into the country as far as they could that day, and returning in the evening. Having entered a wood, they afcended a hill through a pathleis wilder- nefs till the afternoon. After they had reached what they took for a plain, they were greatly clifappointed to find it a fvvamp, covered with birch, the bumes in- terwoven and fo inflexible that they could not be di- vided : however, as they were not above three feet high, they ftepped over them, but were up to the an- cles in boggy ground. The morning had been very fine, but now the weather became cold and difagree- able ; the blafts of wind were very piercing, and the fnow fell thick ; neverthelefs they puriued their route in hope of finding a better road. Before they had got No. i. E over 34 Coex's FIRST VOYAGE over this fwamp, an accident happened that greatly difconcerted them : Mr. Buchan, one of the draughtf- men whom Mr. Banks had taken with him, fell into a fit. It was abfolutely necefiary to ftop and kindle a fire, and fuch as were moft fatigued remained to aflift him ; but Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and Mr. Monk- houfe proceeded, and attained the fpot they had in view, where they found a great variety of plants tha gratified their curioiity and repaid their toil. On re- turning to the company amidft the mow which now fell in great abundance, they found Mr. Buchan much recovered. They had previoufly fent Mr. Monkhoufe and Mr. Green back to him and thofe that remained -with him, in order to bring them to a hill which was conjeclure'd to lie in a better track for returning to the wood, and which was accordingly fixed on as a place of rendezvous. They refolved from this hill to p^fs through the fwamp, which this way did not appear to be more than half a mile in extent, into the covert of the wood, in which they propofed building a hut, and kindling a fire, to defend themfelves from the leverity of the weather. Accordingly, the whole party met at the place appointed, about eight in the even- ing, whilft it was ftill day-light, and proceeded to- wards the next valley. Dr. Solander having often paffed over mountains in cold countries, was ienlible, that extreme cold, when joined with fatigue, occafions a drowfinefs that is not eafily refifted ; he therefore intreated his friends to keep in motion, however difagreeable it might be to them . His words were Whoever fits down will fleep, and whoever ileeps will wake no more. Every one feemed accordingly armed with refolution ; but, on a fudden, the cold became fo very intenfe as to threaten the moft dreadful effects. Itwas now very remarkable, that the Doctor himfelf who had fo forcibly admo- nifhed and alarmed his party, was the firft that infifted to be fiiffered to repofe. In fpite of the moft earneft intreaties of his friends, he lay down amidft the mow, 4 and ROUND THE WORLD. $ 5 and it was with difficulty that they kept him awake. One of the black fervants alfo became weak and faint, and was on the point of following this bad example^ Mr. Buchan was therefore detached with a party to make a fire at the firft commodious fpot they could find. Mr. Banks and four more remained with the Doctor and Richmond the black, who with the utmoft difficulty were perfuaded to come on ; and when they had traverfed the greateft part of the fwamp, they ex- prefled their inability of going any farther. When the black was told that if he remained there he would foon be frozen to death, his reply was, That he was fo much exhaufted with fatigue, that death would be a relief to him. Doctor Solander faid, he was not un- willing to go, but that he muft firit take fome fleep, ilill perfifting in acting contrary to the opinion which he himfelf had delivered to the company. Thus re- folved, they both fat down, fupported by fome bufhes, and in a ihort time fell afleep. Intelligence now came from the advanced party, that a fire was kindled about a quarter of a mile farther on the way. Mr. Banks then awakened the Doctor, who had already almoft loft the ufe of his limbs, though it was but a few minutes fince he fat down ; neverthelefs, he confented to go on, but every meafure taken to relieve the black proved ineffectual. He remained motionlefs, and they were obliged to leave him to the care of a failor, and the other black fervant, who appeared to be the leaft hurt by the cold, and they were to be relieved as foon as two others were fufficiently warmed, to fill their places. The Doctor, with much difficulty, was got to the fire ; and as to thofe who were fent to relieve the companions of Richmond, they returned without having been able to find them. What rendered the mortification ftill greater was, that a bottle of rum (the whole ftock of the party) could not be found, and was judged to have been left with one of the three that were miffing. A fall of fnow continuing for near two hours, there now remained no hopes of feeing the three ablent per- E 2 fons %6 COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE fons again. At twelve o'clock, however, a great fhout- ing was heard at a diftance, which gave inexpreflible iatisfacbon to every one prefent. iMr. Banks and four others went forward and met the failor, who had juft ilrength enough left to walk. He was immediately fent to the lire, and they proceeded to feek for the other two. They found Richmond upon his legs, but in- capable of moving them ; the other black was lying fenielefs upon the ground. All endeavours to bring them to the fire were fruitlefs ; nor was it poffible to kindle one upon the fpot ? on account of the fnow that had fallen, and was falling; fo that there remained no alternative, and they were compelled to leave the two unfortunate negroes to their fate, after they had made them a bed of the boughs of fome trees, and covered them over thick with the fame. As all hands had been employed in endeavouring to move thefe poor blacks to the fire, and had been expofed to the cold for near an hourandan half in the attempt, fomeof them began to be afflicted in the fame manner as thofe whom they were to relieve. Brifcoe, another fervant of Mr. Banks, in particular, began to lofe his fenfibility. At laft they reached the fire, and palled the night in a very dif- agreeable manner. The party that fet out from the fhip had confifted of twelve ; two of thefe were already judged to be dead, it was doubtful whether the third would be able to re- turn on board, and Mr. Buchan, a fourth, feemed to be threatened with a return of his fits. The fhip they reckoned to be at the diftance of a long day's journey, through an unfrequented wood, in which they might probably be bewildered till night, and having been equipped only for a journey of a few hours, they had not a fufficiency of provifions left to afford the com- pany a {ingle meal. Atday-breakon the lyth, nothing prefented itfelf to the view all around but fnow, which covered alike the trees and the ground ; and theblafts of wind were fo frequent and violent, that their journey feemed to be rendered Itettfc; '.*'< S,'^ '*{&* RotfND THE WORLD. 37 rendered im practicable, and they had reafon to dread perilling with cold and famine. However, about fix in the morning, they were flattered with a dawn of hope of being delivered, bydifcoveringthefun through the clouds, which gradually diminimed. Before their fetting out, mefTengers were difpatched to the un- happy negroes ; but thefe returned with the melan- choly news of their death. Though the Iky had flat- tered the hopes of the furvivors, the mow continued falling very faft, a circumftance which impeded their journey; but a breeze fpringingup about eight o'clock, added to the influence of the fun, began to clear the air, and the fnow falling in large flakes from the trees, gave tokens of a thaw. Hun ger prevailing over every other consideration, induced our travellers to divide the fmall remainder of their provifions, and to fet forward on their journey about ten in the morning. To their great aftonimment and fatisfaction, in about three hgurs they found themfelves on the more, and much nearer to the fhipthan their moftfanguine expectations could have fuggefted. When they looked back upon their former route from the fea, they found, that inftead of afcending the hill in a direct line, they had made a circle almoft round the country. On their return, thefe wanderers received fuch congratulations from thofe on board, as can more eafily be imagined than exprefied. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander went on more again on the 2oth of this month, landing in the bottom of the bay, where.they collected a numberof fhells and plants, hitherto unknown. After having returned toclinner, they went to vifit an Indian town, about two miles up the country, the accefs to which, on account of the mud, was difficult. When they approached the town, two of the natives came out to meet them, who began to fhout in their ufual manner. They afterwards con- dueled Mr. Banks and the Doctor to their town. It was iituate on a fmall hill, over-fhaded with wood, and confided of about a dozen huts, conftructed without art 3& C o o K 's E i n 9 T VOYAGE art or regularity. They were compofed of a few poles inclining to each other in the {hape of a fugar-loaf, which were covered on the weather fide with grafs and boughs, and on the other lide a fpace was left open, which ferved at once for a fire-place and a door. They were of the fame nature of the huts that had been feen at St. Vincent's Bay. A little grafs ferved for beds and chairs, and their utenfils were a balketfor the hand, a fatchel to hang upon the back, and a bladder for water, out of which they drank through a hole near the top. This town was inhabited by a tribe of about fifty men, women, and children. Their bows and arrows were conftru&ed with neatnefs and ingenuity, being made of wood highly poliftied; and the point, which was either glafs or flint, very fkilfully fitted. Thefe latter fubftances were obferved among them un- wrought, as alfo cloth, rings, buttons, &c. from whence it was concluded that they fometimes tra- velled to the northward, as no fhip, for years paft, had touched at this part of Terra del Fuego. The natives here did not JEhew any furprife at the iight of fire arms, but appeared to be well acquainted with their ufe. It is likely that the fpot on which the Dodor and Mr. Banks met them, was not a fixed habitation, as their houfes did not feem as if they were erected to ftand for any long time, and they had no boats or canoes among them. They did not appear to have any form of government, or any ideas of fubordination. They feerned to be the very out- eafts of men, and a people that palfed their lives in wandering in a forlorn manner over dreary waftes ; their dwelling being a thatched hovel, and their cloathing fcarccly fufficient to keep them from pe- riihing with cold, even in thefe climates. Their only food was meli-fiih, which on any one fpot muft foon be exhaufted ; nor had they the rudeft imple- ment of art, not even fo much as was neceffary to drefs their food ; yet amidft all this, we are told, that they appeared to enjoy that content, which is ieldom found JF3 n ? ROUND THE WORLD. %y found in great and populous cities ; a fpecies of con- tent, which if they really enjoyed, it muft have arifen from ftupidity, a fatisfacrion the offspring of the greateft ignorance. Such is the ftate of uncultivated nature ; fuch the rude form which uncivilized man puts on. The wants of thefe people feemed to be few ; but fome wants all mankind muft have, and even the moft fimple of them, thefe poor favages ap- peared fcarcely in a condition to gratify. The calls of hunger and thirft muft be obeyed, or man muft perifh ; yet the people in queftion feemed to depend on chance for the means of anfwering them. Thofe \vho can be happy in fuch a fituation, can only be fo, becaufe they have not a due feeling of their mifery. We know that there have been admirers of fimple nature amongft the philofophers of all ages and na- tions ; and certainly fimple nature has her beauties. In regard to the vegetative and brute creation, ihe operates with refiftlefs energy ; her power is prevalent, as her pencil is inimitable ; but when we afcend in, the fcale of beings, and come to examine the human race, what {hall we find them, without cultivation ? It is here that inftincl ends, and reafon begins ; and without entering into the queftion, Whether a ftate of nature is a ftate of war ? when we obferve the in- numerable inconveniences to which thofe are fubjecl: on whom the light of fcience never dawned, we may eafily determine in the favour of thofe arts which have civilized mankind, formed them into focieties, refined their manners, and taught the nations where they have prevailed, to protect thofe rights whicfy the untutored favages have ever been obliged to yield to the fuper'or abilities of their better inftructed invaders, and have thus faUen a prey to European tyranny. We obferved in this place feals, fea-lions, and dogs, and no other quadrupeds ; neverthelefs it is probable there are other kinds of animals in the country ; for Mr. Banks remarked, from a hill, an impreffion of the foot- 4# Coox's FIRST VOYAGE .foot-fteps of a large animal on the furface of a bog, but of what kind it was he could not determine. N ot any land-birds were feen larger than an Englifli black- bird, hawks and vultures excepted. Ducks and other water fowls we faw in abundance; alfomell-fifh, clams, and limpets. The country, though uncleared, had nei- ther gnat, mufquito, nor any other noxious or trouble- fome animals. A great variety of plants were found by the Doctor and Mr. Banks. The wild celery and fcurvy-gra-fs arefuppofed to contain antifcorbutic qua- lities, which will therefore be of fervice to the crews of fuch (hips as hereafter may touch at this place, after a long voyage. The latter is found in abundance near fprings and in damp places, particularly at the water- ing place in the bay of Good Succefs, and it refembles the Englifli cuckow flower, or ladyVfmock. The wild celery is like what grows in our gardens in Eng- land, but the leaves are of a deeper green. This plant may be found in plenty near the beach, and upon the land above the fpring tides. In tafte it is between that of celery and parfley. The grateful feaman, long con- fined to fait provisions, enjoy this healing vegetable diet, as a fpecial blefling of an all gracious Provi* dence, particularly vifible in providing in different climates different food and nourifhment, fuitable to his nature, wants and necefiities. On Sunday, Jan. 22, having got in our wood and water, we failed out of the bay, and continued our courfe through the Streight ; and in paffing this, tiot- \vithftanding thedefcription which fome voyagers have given of Terra del Fuego, we did not find that it had, agreeable to their reprefentations, fuch a forbidding afpect. On the contrary, we found the fea coafts and the fides of the hills cloathcd with verdure. Indeed the fummits of the hills were barren, but the valleys appeared rich, and a brook was generally found at the foot of almolt every hill; and though the water had a redclifh tinge, yet it was far from being ill taftecl. U[. i the whole it was the beil we took on board during our voyage. ROUND t H E W o R L D 41 voyage. Nine miles weftward of cape St. Diego, the low point that forms the north entrance of the Streight of Lc Maire, are three hills, called the Three Bro- thers; and on Terra del Fuego is another hill, in the form of a fugar-loaf, which Hands on the wed fide not far from the lea* We had not that difficulty mentioned in the hiftbry of Lord Anfon's voyage, in finding where the ftreight of Le Maire lies* No fliip can well mil's the ftreight that keeps Terra del Fuego in fight, for it will then be eafily difcovered ; and Staten ifland which lies on the eaft fide will be itill more plainly perceived, for there is no land on Terra del Fuego like it. And let it be further particularly obierved, that the entrance of the ftreight fhould be attempted only with a fair- wind, when the weather too is moderate, and likewife, upon the beginning of the tide of flood, which here falls out upon the full and change of the moon, about one or two o'clock ; let it alfo be remembered, to keep as near the Ihore of Terra del Fuego as the winds will permit. The ftreight of Le Maire is bounded on the weft by Terra del Fuego, and on the eaft by the weft end of Staten ifland, and is nearly five leagues in length, nor lefs in breadth. The bay of Good Succefs is feated about the middle of it, on the fide of Terra del Fuego, which prefents itfelf at the entrance of the ftreighfr from the northward , and the fouth end of it may be diftinguifhed by a land mark, refernbling a road from the fea to the country. It affords good anchorage, and plenty of wood and water. Staten land did not ap- pear to Captain Cook in the fame manner as it did to Commodore Anfon. That horror and wildnefs, men- tioned by the Commodore, were not obferved by our gentlemen ; on the contrary, the land appeared to be neither deftitute of wood nor verdure, nor was it co- vered with fnow ; and on the north fide we faw the ap- pearances of bays and harbours. It is probable, that the fcafon of the year and other ciroumftances might concur to occadon fuch different reprefemations of a No. 2. ? land, 4i C o o -K-'S > i R s t V o Y A G'E land, which all our circumnavigators muft own to be unfriendly and difagreeably fituated. On the weft fide of the cape of Good Succefs, whereby is formed the ibuth weft entrance of the ftreight, we faw the mouth cf Valentine's bay ; from whence the land lies in a di- rection weft fcuth-weft for more than twenty leagues, appearing high and mountainous, with fevcral inlets arid bays. Fourteen leagues from the bay of Good Succefs, fouth- weft half- weft, and nearly three leagues from the more, is New Ifland; terminating to the north-caft in a remarkable hillock j and feven leagues from hence, fouth-weft, lies Event's ifle; a little to the weft of the fouth of which are two fmall low iflands, near to each other, called Barnevelt's. Thefe are partly lurrounded with rocks, which rife to different heights above the water, and are twenty-four leagues from the ftreight of Le Maire. Three leagues fouth weft by fouth, from Barnevelt's iilands, is the fouth-eaft point of Hermit's iilands, which lie fouth-eaft and north- weft. They appeared to us in different points of view, fometimcs as one ifland, and at others as part of the main. From the fouth-eaft point of thefe iflands to Cape Horn, the courfe is fouth-weft by fouth, diftant three leagues. Hermit, who commanded the Dutch fouadron in 1624, certainly put into fome of them, Chapenham, vice admiral of this fquadron, firft 3ifcovered that Cape Horn was formed by a clufter of iilands. Between the ftreight Le Maire and Cape Horn we found, when near the more, the current fettingge* nerally ftrong to the north-eaft; but we loft it at the diftance of fifteen or twenty leagues from land. January the 2 6th we took our departure from Cape Horn, aiid the fartheft fouthern latitude we made was 60 deg. 10 min. and our longitude was then 74 deg, 30 min. weft. Cape Horn is iituated in 55 deg. 53 min. fouth latitude, and 68 deg. 13 min. weft longi- tude. The weather being very calm, Mr. Banks failed in a fmall boat to moot birds, when he killed fome fheer* waters 3 and albatrofles. The latter were larger than ROUND THE WORLD. 43 than tliofe which had been taken to the northward of the ftreight, and proved to be very good food. At this time we found ourfelves to be 12 deg. to the weft- ward, and three and a half to the northward of the ftreight of Magellan, having, from the eaft entrance of the ftreight, been three and thirty days in failing round Cape Horn. Notwithftanding the doubling of Cape Horn is reprefented as a very dangerous courie, and that it is generally thought palling through the ftreight of Magellan is Icfs perilous, yet the Endea- vour doubled it with as little danger as ihe would the north Foreland on the Kentifli coaft j the heavens were ierenely fair, the wind temperate, the weather ple.i- fant, and, being near fliore, we had a very diftincb view of the coalt. The Dolphin, in her latl voyage, Hvhich was performed at the famefeafon with ours, was. not lefs than three months in patting through the ftreight of Magellan, not including the time that me lay in Port Famine; and it was the opinion of Captain Cook, that if we had come through the ftreight, we fhould not at this time have bee^t in thefe leas ; and mould have fuffered many inconveniences which we have not experienced. It is a queftion, Whe- ther it is better to go through the ftreight of Le Maire, or to ftand to the ealtward, and go round Staten land ? This can only be determined according to particular circumftances, which may make one or the other more eligible. The ftreight may be parled with fafety by at- tending to the directions already given ; but if the land is fallen in with to the eaftvvard of the ftreight, and the wind mould prove tempeftuous, it would be beft, in our opinion, to go round Staten land. In any cafe, however, we cannot approve of running into the latitude of 61 or 62, before any attempt is made to ftand to the weftward. March the ift we found ourfelves, both by obferva- tion and the log, in latitude 38 deg. 44 min. fouth, and no deg. 33 min. weft longitude, a concurrence very fingular in a run of 660 leagues j and -which F 2 proved, 44 COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE proved, that no current had affected the {hip in her courfe ; and it was likewife concluded, that we had not corne near land of any confide! able extent ; for currents are always found at no great diftance from the fliore. Mr. Banks killed above fixty birds in one day ; alfo two foreft flies, fuch as had never yet been dcfcribed; he alfo found a cuttle-fifti of a fpecies dif- ferent from thofe generally known in Europe. This fifh had a double row of talons, refembling thofe of a cat, which it could put forth or withdraw at plea- fure. When drefled it made excellent foup. On the 24th our latitude was 22 deg. 1 1 min. fouth, and 127 deg. 55 min. weft longitude. On the 25th a young marine about twenty threw himfelf overboard, on ac- count of a quarrel about a piece of feal fkin, which he took byway of frolic ; but being charged with it as a theft, he took the accufation fo much to heart, that in the dufk of the evening he threw himfelf into the fea and was drowned. On the 4th of April about 10 o'clock, A. M. Peter Brifcoe, fervant to Mr. Banks, difcovered land to the fouth, at the diftance of about three or four leagues, Capt. Cook immediately gave orders to haul for it, when we found an ifland of an oval form, having a lagoon or lake in the center, that extended over the greater part of it. The furrounding border of land was low and narrow in many places, efpecially towards the fouth, where the beach confifted of a reef of rocks. Three places on the north fide had the fame appearance, fo that on the whole the land feemed to refemble feveral woody iflands. To the weft was a large clump of trees, and iii the center two cocoa-nut trees. When within a mile of the north fide, though we caft out a line, no bottom could be found at 1 30 fathom, nor any good anchorage. This ifland was covered with trees, but we could difcern no other fpecies than the palm and the cocoa-nut. Several of the natives were difcovered on more; they appeared to be tall, with heads remark- able large, which probably fome bandage might have increafecU HOUND THE WORLD. 45 mcreafed. Their complexion was of the copper colour, and their hair was black. Some of thefe people were ieen abreaft of the fhip, holding poles or pikes of twice their own height, They appeared alfo naked ; but when they retired, on the fliip's pailing by the iflands, they put on a light-coloured covering. Some clumps of palm-trees ferved them for habitations, which at a diftance appeared like hilly ground, and the view of the groves was a very agreeable one. Our captain called this place Lagoon Ifland. It lay in 18 degrees ibuth latitude, and 139 weft longitude. In the after- noon we again faw land to the north-weft ; by fun-fet we reached it, when it appeared to be a low ifland of a circular form, and about a mile in circumference. The land was covered with verdure of various kinds, but no inhabitants were vifible, nor any cocoa-nut trees. This ifland is diltant from that of Lagoon about feven leagues north, and 62 weft, which our gentlemen on board named Thumb Cap. On the 5th we continued our courfe with a favour- able wind, and about three o'clock difcovered land to the weft ward. It was low, in form refembling a bow, and in circumference feemed to be ten or twelve leagues. Its length is about three or four leagues, and its width about two hundred yards. The beach was flat, and feemed to have no other herbage upon it than fea- weeds. The refemblance of a bow was preferved in the arch and cord forming the land, while the inter- mediate fpace was taken up by water. The arch, in general, was covered with trees of various verdure and different heights. This ifland, from the fmoke that was difcovered, appeared to be inhabited, and we gave it the name of Bow Ifland. On the 6th about noon, we again faw land to the weft, and at three o'clock we came up with it. This land feemed to be divided into two parts, or rather a collec- tion of iflands (to which we gave the name of the Groups) to the extent of about nine leagues. The two Jargeft were dividetj from the others by a ftreight, the 2 breadth. ^6 COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE breadth of which was about half a mile. Sonic of thefe iflands were ten miles or more in length, but ap* peared like long narrow firings of land, not above a quarter of a mile in breadth ; but they produced trees, however, of different kinds, among which was the cocoa-nut tree. Several of the inhabitants came out in their canoes, and two of them mewed an intention of coming on board ; but thefe, like the reft, Hopped at the reef. From the obfervations made, thefe people appeared to be about our fize, and well made. Their complexion was brown, and they were naked. In ge-t neral, they had two weapons ; one was a long pole, fpear pointed, and the other refembled a paddle. Se- veral of their canoes were conftructed in fuch a manner, as not to carry more than three perfons ; others were fitted up for fix or feven j and one of thefe boats hoiftecl a fail, which was converted into an awning when a {hower of rain fell. Capt. Cook would not ftay for any of them, neither could we determine, whether the fignals made were meant for defiance, or for invitation ; one party waving their hats, and another anfwering by ihouting. In this refpect it was not judged prudent to try the experiment, in order to be convinced, as the ifland appeared of no importance, and the crqw not being in want pf any thing it could produce. Thi puriofity was therefore laid afide, in expectation of foon, difcovering the ifland, where we had been directed to make our aftronomical obfervations, the natives of which, it was reafonable to conjecture, would make no refiftance, having already experienced the danger of oppofing an European force. On the 7th we difcovered another ifland, judged to t>e in compafs about five miles, being very low, and having a piece of water in the center. It appeared to abound in wood, and to be covered with verdure, but we faw no^inhabitants upon it. It was named Bird Jfland, from the number of birds that were feen flying about. This lies in latitude 17 deg. 48 min. fouth, and 143 deg. 35 ruin, weft longitude ; diftant tea ROUND THE Wok LD* 47 leagues, in the direction weft half north from the weft end of the Groups. On the 8th in the afternoon we faw land to the north- ward, and came abreaft of it in the evening, at about five miles diftance. This land feemed to be a chain of low iflands, of an oval figure, and confifted of coral and fand. with a few clumps of fmall trees, and in the middle of it was a lagoon. On account of its appearance, it was called Chain Ifland. On the loth, after a tempeftuous night, we came in fight of Ofnaburgh ifland, called by the natives Maitea. This ifland is circular, about four miles in circumference, partly rocky, and partly covered with trees. COOK'S tiRST VOYAGE c ii A P. in. arrives at Otaheite t or George the Third's Ijland Rules ejlab'ujhcd by dipt. Cook for conducing a trc.de with the natives An account of fever al incidents during his ft ay in this ijland An obfervatory and fort tretted-~-Excur/ions into the woods Vijits from federal of the chiefs 'The mufic of the natives, and their manner of burying their dead t defcnbed Other excurjions and inci- dents , both on board and on Jhore Firft interview with- Qberea, the fiippofcd >ueen of the ijland The fort de- fcribed The quadrant jMen t and the confequences~^-A vifit to Tootahah t an Indian chief A wreftling match dc- fcribed European feeds are fown 'The Indians give our people names. ON the ii tli we made Otsheite, or, as captain Wallis had named it, king George the Third's lliand. The calms prevented our approaching it titt the morning of the i2th, when a breeze fprung up, and feveral canoes were feen making towards the ihip. Few of them, however, would come near, and thole \vho did could not be perfuadcd to come on board. They had brought with them young plantains and branches of trees, which were handed up the fhip's iide, and, by their defire, were ftuck in confpicuous parts of the rigging as tokens of peace and friendfliip, We then purchafed their commodities, confifting of cocoa-nuts, bananas, bread-fruit, apples and figs, which were very acceptable to the crew. On the evening of the fame day we opened the north-weft point of the ifle, to which the Dolphin's people had given the name of York Uland. We lay off and on all night, and in the morning of the 1301 we entered Port Royal Har- bour in the ifland of Otaheite, and anchored within half a mile of the more. Many of the natives came off immediately in their canoes, and brought with them Jxread-fruit; cocoa-nuts, apples, and lome hogs, which they ROUND THE \V o R t D. 49 they bartered for beads and other trinkets with the ihip's company. The tree which bears the bread-fruit is about the fize of a horfe-chefrmt : its leaves are near a foot and a half in length, in fliape oblong, and very much referable thofe of the fig-tree. The fruiLis not unlike the cantaloupe melon : it is inclofed in a Chin (kin, and its core is as large as a man's thumb. The fubftance of this fruit is ibmewhat like that of new bread, and as white as the blanched almond. It muft be roafted, and when eaten it has the tafle of a flight fweetnefs. Among thofe who came on board the Endeavour, was an elderly man, named Owhaw, known to Mr. Gore and others who had vifited this ifland with cap- tain Wallis. Owhaw being confidered by our gentle- men as a very uieful man, they fludied to pleafe him, and to gratify all his wifhes. As our continuance in George's Ifland was not likely to be very fliort, certain rules were drawn up to be obferved by every perfon on, board his majefty's bark the Endeavour, for the better eftablifhing a regular trade with the natives. The fub- ftance of thefe rules were, " That in order to prevent quarrels and confufion, every one of the fhip's crew fhould endeavour to treat the inhabitants of Otaheite with humanity, and by all fair means to cultivate a friendship with them. That no officer, feaman, or other perfon, belonging to the fhip, excepting fuch only who were appointed _to barter with the natives, mould trade, or otter to trade, for any kinds of provi- iion, fruit, or other produce of the ifland, without hav- ing exprefs leave fo to do. That no perfon mould em- bezzle, trade, or offer to trade with any part of the fhip's ftores : and, that no fort of iron, or any thing made of iron, nor any fort of cloth, or other ufeful ar- ticles in the ihip, mould be given in exchange for any thing but provision." Thefe neceffary rules were fign- ed by Capt. Cook, and, being his orders, to the non- bbfervance of them were annexed certain penalties, befides the punilhmeht according to the ufual cuftom of the navy. No. 2. G When $o COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE When the bark was properly fecured, Capt. Cook, Mr. Banks, and Dr. Solander, went on fliore, with a jarty under arms, and their friend the old Indian, 'jhey were received by fome hundreds of the natives vit'i awe and reverence, who exchanged the tokens of pt ace, and offered to conduct them to a fpot of ground, which would be more convenient for them to occupy, than that where they had landed. On their way, the Englifli made the Indians fome prefents, which the latter very thankfully received. They now took a cir- cuit of about four miles through groves of the bread- fruit and cocoa-trees. Intermingled with thefe were the dwellings of the natives, which con fitted of huts without walls. In the courfe of their journey they found but few fowls or hogs, and under!! ood, that none of their conductors, nor any of the people they had hitherto feen, were perfons of rank in the ifland. Thofe of our crew, who had before been at Otaheite in the Dolphin, 'were likewife of opinion, that the queen's refidence had been removed, as no traces of it were now to be difcovered. Next day, in the morning, before they could leave the Ihip, feveral canoes came about her filled with peo- ple, whofe drefs denoted them to be of the fuperior clafs. Two of thefe came on board, and each of them fixed upon a friend : one of them chofe Mr. Banks, and the other Captain Cook. The ceremonials conlifted of taking off their cloaths in great part, and putting them upon their adopted friends. This compliment was returned by our gentlemen prefenting them with fome trinkets. They then made figns for their new friends to go with them to the place of their abode ; and the latter being defirous of being acquainted with the people, and finding out a more convenient harbour, accepted the invitation, and went with them, accom- panied by Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, Captain Cook, and others. We all landed in two boats at the diftance of about three miles, among a great number of the na- tives, who conducted us to a large habitation, where we were introduced to a middle-aged man, named Tootahah. ROUND T H E W o R L D, 5t Tootahah. When we \vere--feated, he prefented to Mr. Banks a cock, a hen, and a piece of perfumed cloth, which compliment was returned by a prefent from Mr. Banks. We were then conducted to feveral other large dwellings, wherein we walked about with great freedom. The ladies, fo far from munning, invited, and even preffed us to be feated. By fre- quently pointing to the mats upon the ground, and fometimes drawing us down upon them, we had no doubt of their being lefs jealous of obfervation than we were ; but the huts that are all open, except a roof, afforded no place of requifite retirement. Walking afterwards along the more, we met, accompanied by a great number of natives, another chief, named Tu- bourai Tamaide, with whom we fettled a treaty of peace, in the manner before defcribed, This chief gave us to underftand, that he had proviiions at our fervice, if we chofe to eat, which he produced, and we dined heartily upon bread-fruit, plantains, and fifh. During this vifit, Tomio, the chief's wife, placed herfelf upon the fame mat with Mr. Banks, clofe by him ; but as me was not young, nor appeared ever to have poffeffed many charms, this gentleman paid little attention to her ; and Tomio received an addi- tional mortification, when Mr. Banks beckoned to a pretty girl, who, with fome reluctance, came and placed herielf by him. The princefs was fomewhat chagrined at this preference given to her rival ; never- thelefs me continued her afliduities to her gueft. This \vhimfical i'cene was interrupted by an event of a more ferious nature ; Dr. Solander having miffed his opera glafs, a complaint was made to the chief, which inter- rupted the convivial party. The complaint was inforced by Mr. Banks's ftarting up and ftriking the butt- end of his mufquet againft the ground, which ftruck the In- dians with fuch a panic," that all of them ran precipi- tately out of the houfe, except the chief and a few others of the fuperior clafs. That no difadvantageous notions might be entertained of them on account of this circumtlance, the chief obferved, with an air of G 2 great 52 COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE great probity, That the place which the Doctor had mentioned on this occafion, was not within his diftricr., but that he would fend to the chief of it, and endea- vour to recover it, adding, that if this could not be done, he would make the Doctor compensation, by giving him as much new cloth (of which he produced large quantities) as mould be thought equal to the va- lue. The cafe however was brought in a little time, and the glafs itfelf foon after, which deprived us of the merit we mould otherwife have had in refufing the cloth which had been offered us. But it afforded an opportunity of convincing the natives of our gene- rofity, by lavifhing rewards upon them for an action, to which felf-interefl had been the motive, rather than any fentiment of probity ; to which, from numerous tranfactions, they appeared to be abfolutely ftrangers. After this adventure was amicably terminated, we re- turned to the mip about fix o'clock in the evening. On Saturday the i5th, in the morning, feveral of the chiefs, one of whom was very corpulent, came on board from the other point, bringing with them hogs, bread-fruit, and other refrefliments, in exchange for which they received linen, beads, and other trinkets; but fomc of them took the liberty of ftealing the lightening chain. This day the captain, attended by Mr. Banks, and fome of the other gentlemen, went on more, to fix on a proper fpot to erect a fort for their de- fence, during their ftay on the ifland, and the ground was accordingly marked out for that purpofe ; a great number of the natives looking on all the while, and be- having in the mofl peaceable and friendly manner. Mr. Banks and his friends having feen few hogs and poultry in their walks, they fufpected that they had been driven up the country ; for wh'ich reafon they determined to penetrate into the woods, the tent be- ing guarded by a petty officer and a party of marines. On this excurfion feveral of the natives accompanied the Englim. While the party were on their march, they were alarmed by the difcharge of two pieces fired by the guard of the tent. Owhaw having now called together H O U N D T H E W O R L D. 53 together the captain's party, difperfed all the Indians, except three, who in token of their fidelity broke branches of trees, according to their cuftom, and whom it was thought proper to retain. When they re- turned to the tent, they found that an Indian having fnatched away one of the centinel's mufquets, a young midfhipman, who commanded the party, was fo im- prudent as to give the marines orders to fire, which were obeyed, and many of the natives were wounded; but this did not fatisfy them, as 'the offender had not fallen, they therefore purfued him and revenged the theft by his death. This action, which was equally in- confiftent with policy and humanity, could not but be very difpleaiing to Mr. Banks ; but as what had paffed could not be recalled, nothing remained but to endea- vour to accommodate matters with the Indians. Ac- cordingly he crofled the river, where he met an old man, through whofe mediation feveral of the natives w r ere prevailed to come over to them, and to give the ufual tokens of friendfhip. The next morning, how- ever, they faw but few of the natives on the banks, and none came on board, from whence it was con- cluded that the treatment they had received the former day was not yet forgotten, and the Englifli were con- firmed in this opinion by Owhaw's having left them. In confequence of thefe circumftances, the captain brought the fhip nearer to the fliore, and moored her in fuch a manner as to make her broad-fide bear on the fpot which they had marked out for erecting their little fortification. But in the evening the captain and fome of the gentlemen going on fliore, the Indians came round them, and trafficked with them as ufual. Mr. Banks on the i;th, had the misfortune to lofe Mr. Buchan. The fame day they received a vifit from Tubourai Tamaide, and Tootahah. They brought with them fome plantain branches, and till thefe were re- ceived, they would not venture on board. They bar- tered forae bread-fruit and a hog, which was ready drcfied, for nails, with the Englim. The fort began to be erected on the 1 8th. And now fome 54 C O O K ' S F I R S T V Y A C E fome of the company were employed in throwing up intrenchments, whilit others were buiied in cutting fafcines and pickets, in which work the Indians affifted them. They fortified three fides of the place, with in- trenchments and pallifadoes, and upon the other which was flanked by a river, where a breaft-work was formed by the water-calks. The natives brought down fuch quantities of bread fruit and cocoa-nuts this day, that it was neceflfary to, refufe them, and to let them know that none would be wanting for two days. Mr. Banks flept for the firft time on fhore this night. None of the Indians attempted to approach his tent, he had how- ever taken the precaution of placing centinels about it, for its defence, in cafe any attack mould be meditated. Tubourai Tamaide vifited Mr. Banks at his tent on Wednefday the ipth, and brought with him his wife and family with the materials for ertAing a houfe, in- tending to build it near the fort. He afterwards afked that gentleman to accompany him to the woods. On their arrival at a place where he fometimes refided, he prefentedhis guefts with two garments, one of which was of red cloth, and the other was made of fine mat- ting ; having thus clothed Mr. Banks, he conducted him to the Imp, and ft aid to dinner with his wife and fon. They had a dim ferved up that day, which was prepared by the attendants of Tubourai Tamaide, which feemed like wheat flour, and being mixed with cocoa-, nut liquor, it was ftirred about till it became a jelly. Its flavour was fomething like blanc mange. A fort of market was now eftablimecl without the lines of the fort, which was tolerably well fupplied, and Tubourai Ta- maide was a frequent gueft to Mr. Banks, and the other Englifh gentlemen. He was the only native that attempted to uie a knife and fork, being fond of adopt- ing European manners. Mr. Monkhoufe the furgeon being abroad on his evening walk, reported that he had Teen the body of a man who had been mot from the tent, of which he gave the following account " The corpfe was depofited in a fhed, cloCe to the houfe where the deceafed had refided when he was alive. . LUTE ,/rtwn ///,) Nos ROUND THE \V o R L D. 55 alive, and others were within ten yards of it. It was about fifteen feet in length, and eleven in breadth, and the height was proportionable. The fides rmd one end- were inclofed with a fort of wicker work ; the other end was entirely open. The body lay on a bier, the frame of which was of wood, fupported by pofts about five feet high, and was covered with a mat, over which, lay a white cloth : by the fide of it lay a wooden mace, and towards the head two cocoa fliells ; towards the feet was a bunch of green leaves, and fmall dried boughs tied together, and ftuck in the ground, near which was a ftone about the fize of a cocoa-nut; here were alfo placed a young plantain tree, and a ftone axe. A great many palm nuts were hung in firings at the open end of the fhed; and the ftem of a palm- tree was fluck up on the outlide of it, upon which was placed a cocoa-mell filled with water. At the fide of one of the pofts there hung a little bag with fome roafted pieces of bread-fruit." The natives were not pleafed at his approaching the body, their jealoufy ap- pearing plainly in their countenances and geftures. On the 2 2d we were entertained by fome of the mu- ficians of the country, who performed on an inftru- mcnt fomewhat refembling a German flute, but the performer blew through his noftril infteacl of his mouth, and others accompanied this inftrument, fing- ing only one tune. Some of the Indians brought their axes to grind and repair, moft of which they had ob- tained from Captain \Vallis and his people in the Dol- phin ; but a French one occafioned a little fpeculation, and at length upon enquiry, it appeared to have been left here by M. de Bougainville. On the 24th Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander made an excurfion into the country, and found it level and fer- tile along the fliore, for about two miles to the eafl- ward ; after which the hills reached quite to the wa- ter's edge; and farther on they ran out into the fea. Having pafTed thefe hills, which continued about three miles, we came to an extenfive plain, aboynding with good habitations, and the people feemed to enjoy a confiderable fhare of property. The place was ren- dered 56 COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE dered ftill more agreeable by a wide river ifluing from a valley, and which watered it. We crofled this river, when perceiving the country to be barren, we refolved to return. Juft as we were about fo to do, we were of- fered fome refrefhment by a man, which fome writers have cxprefled to be a mixture of many nations, but different from all, his Ikin being of a dead white, though fome parts of his body were not fo white as others; and his hair, eye-brows and beard were as white as his Ikin. His eyes appeared like thofe that are blood mot, and he. ieemed as if he was near- fighted. Upon our return, the cxccffive joy of Tu- bourai Tamaide and his women is not to be ex- pre/Ted. On the 25th, in the evening, feveral of the gentle- mens knives being miffing, Mr. Banks, who had loft his among the reft, accufed Tubourai Tamaide of hav* in" taken it, which as he was innocent, occafioned him t/ , a great deal of unmerited anxiety. He made figns, while the tears ftarted from his eyes, that if he had ever been guilty of fuch a theft as was imputed to him, he would fufFer his throat to be cut. But though he was innocent, it was plain from many inftances, that the natives of this iflancl were very much addicted to thieving : though Mr. Banks's fervant had miflaid the knife in queftion, yet the reft were produced in a rag, by one of the natives. When the guns on the 26th, which \vere fix fwivels, had been mounted on the fort, the Indians feemcd to be in great trouble, and fevenil of the fifhermen re- moved, fearing, notwithfta-nding all the marks of friend- fhip which had been fhewn to them by our people, they fhould, within a few days, be fired at from the fort : yet the next day, being the 27th, Tubourai Tamaide came with three women, and a friend of his, who was a remarkable glutton, into the fort to dine with us, and after dinner returned to his own houfe in the wood. In a fhort time after he came back to complain to Mr. Banks, of a butcher, who had threatened to cut his wife's throat, becaufe Ihe would not barter a (tone hatchet for a nail. It appealing clearly that the offen- der ROUND THE WOH,LD. 57 dcr had infringed one of the rules enjoined by the Captain for trading with the natives, he was flogged on board in their fight. When the firft ftroke had been given they were humane enough to interfere, and intreated earneftly that the culprit might be untied ; but when this favour was denied them, they me wed ftrong flgns of concern, and burft into tears. On the 28th, Terapo, one of Tubourai Tamaide's female attendants, came down to the fort in thegreateft affliction, the tears gufhing from her eyes. Mr. Banks feeing her full of lamentation and forrow, infifted upon knowing the caufe, but inftead of anfwering, Ihe ftruck herfelf feveral times with a mark's tooth upon her head, till an effufion of blood followed, while her diftrefs was difregarded by feveral other Indians, who continued laughing and talking with the utmoft un- concern. After this, me gathered up fome pieces of cloth, which ihe had thrown down to catch the blood, and threw them into the fea, as if Ihe wiffced to pre- vent the leaft trace and mark of her abfurd behaviour. She then bathed in the river, and with remarkable chearfulnefs returned to the tent, as if nothing extraor- dinary had happened. During the forenoon of this day the Indian canoes were continually coming in, and people of both fexes filled the tents of the fort. Mr. Ivlolineux, m after of the Endeavour, feeing a woman, whole name was Obcrca, he declared fhe was the fame perfon, whom he judged to be the queen of the ifland when he was there with Capt. Wallis. The eyes of every one were now fixed on her, of whom fo much had been faid by the crew of the Dolphin, and in the account given of her by the captain. With regard tp her perfon, fhe was tall and rather large made ; fhe was about forty years of age, her fkin white, and her eyes had great expreflion in them : me had been handfome, but her beauty was now upon the decline. It was not long before an offer was made to conduct her on board the fhip, which fhe accepted. Many prefents were made her, particularly a child's doll, which fhe viewed very attentively, dipt. Cook accompanied her on No. 2. H fliore, 5 $ COOK. 's FIRST VOYAGE fhore, and when we landed, flie prefented bim wirh a hog and fome plantains, in return for his prefents, which were carried to the fort in procefiion, Oberea and the Captain bringing up the rear. In the way they met Tootahah, who, though not king, feemed to be at this time inverted with fovereign authority. Envy is found among thole who are fuppofed to be the children of Cm pie nature. Her influence was plainly vifible in a matter which to us was rather n. fubjcct of laughter han of ferious consideration. Tootahah no fooner faw the doll, than he discovered ftrong fymptoms of jea- loufy, nor could any method be found of -conciliating his fnendftiip, but that of complimenting him with a paby alfo. A doll was now preferable to a hatchet ; but a very ihort time taught the Indians the fuperior value of iron, which, on account of its ufefulnefs, pre- vailed over every other conlideration. To fuch of the rnen who came from time to time on board, the fhip's provilioos feemed to be very acceptable, but the women did not chufe to tafte them j and though they were courted to dine with our gentlemen, yet, for reafons. known only to themfelves, they preferred the eating of plantains with the fervants. On the 29th, near noon, Mr. Banks paid a vifit to Oberea, but was informed that {he was afleep under the awning of her canoe; and, going to call her up, ivas furprized at finding her in bed with a young fellov/ of about twenty-five years of age, a difcovery which caufed him to retire rather difconcerted ; but he ff on understood that a commerce of this kind was by no means confidered as fcandalous, the lar.ies frequently courting the men to amorous dalliance, of which they made no fecret; and as to Obadee, found in bed with the queen, he w.is 'well known by every one to be the objtct of her lafcivipus hours. 'The qi. on got up, and dreiTcd herfelf to ^ait upon 1 ^anks, and, after having, as a token of her particu- lar regard, put on him a firit of fine cloth, they pro- ceeded together to the tents. In the evening Mr. - maide.' He was aftonilhed to HOUND T H E W O R L D. 9 to find this chief and his family in tears, and not being able to difcover the caufe, he foon took leave of them. Upon his return the officers told him, that Owhaw had foretold, that the guns would be fired within four days, and as this was the eve of the third day, they were alarmed at the fituation they judged themfelves to be in. As we were apprehenfive of ill confequences from this prepofleffion, the centinels were doubled at the fort, and we thought it neceffary to keep under arms; but Mr. Banks walking round the point, at two in the morning, and finding nothing that might tend to encourage his fufpicions, he dropped them, and refted fecure in the fort. This our little fortification was now complete. A bank of earth four feet and an half high on the infide, and a ditch without ten feet broad and fix deep, formed the north and fouth fides* On the weft, oppofite the bay, was another bank (with pallifadoes upon it) four feet high; but a ditch was unneceiTary, the works being at high-water mark. Upon the river's bank, on the eaft-fide, was a range of water cafks, filled with water. This being thought the weakeft fide, we planted two four pounders, and mounted fix fwivel guns, which commanded the only- two avenues from the woods. "We had about forty- five men in this fort, including the officers, and other gentlemen who refided on ihore. On the goth Tomio came in gre.it hafte to our tent?, and taking Mr. Banks by the arm, told him that Tu- bourai Tamaide was dying, owing to fomewhat that had been given him by our people, and intreated him inftantly to go to him. Accordingly Mr. Banks went, and found the Indian very fick. He had been vomit- ing, and had thrown up a leaf which they faid con- tained fome of the poifon. Mr. Banks having exa- mined the leaf, found it was nothing but tobaccr, which the Indian had begged of fome of the fiiip's company. The matter, however, appeared in a very ferious light to Tubourai Tamaide, who really concluded from the violent ficknefc he fuffered, that he had fwallowe.i II 2 ibme 9 COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE f >me deadly drug, the terror of which no doubt con- tributed to make him yet more fick. While Mr. Banks was examining the leaf, he looked up to him, as if he had been juft on the point of death . But when the na- ture of this dreadful poifon was found out, he only or- dered him to drink of cocoa-nut milk, which foon re- ftored him to health, and he was as chearful as before the accident happened. Thefe people feemed in par- ticular inftances to be fometimes ftrangely afflicted from flight caufes. On the iflof May, Captain Cook having produced an iron adze, which was made in imitation of the ftone ones ufed by the natives, fliewed it to Tootahah, as a curiofity. The latter fnatched it up and infifted on having it ; and though he was offered the choice of any of the articles in the cherts which were opened before him, yet he would not accept of any thing in its (lead. A chief dined with us that day, who had been on board fome time before, accompanied by fome of his women that ufed to feed him. He now came alone; and when all things were fet ready for dinner, the captain helped him to fome victuals, fuppofmg that he would have difpenfed with the ceremony of be- ing fed; but he was deceived; for the chief never at- tempted to eat, and would have gone without his din- ner, if one of the fervants had not fed him. The 'next morning, May 2, we took the aftronomical qua- drant and fome of the iuftrunients on more that after- 'noon ; and to our great furprife when we wanted to make ufe of the quadrant, the next day, it was not to be found; a matter which was looked upon as the more extraordinary, as a centinel had been placed for the whole night within a few yards of the place where it was depolited. Our own people, at firft, were fufpecl- tol of being concerned in this theft, and, as the in- ilrumcnt had never been taken out of the cafe, it was tufpccted that fome perfon might have carried it off, under the fuppofition that its contents were articles ulod in traftic. A ft rid icarch was made in and about the fort, and a confidei able reward offered in order to 2 obtain R U tf D T H E XV O R L 1>. tfl obtain it ggain. But all this proving fruitlefe, Mr, Banks, accompanied by Mr. Green and fome other gentlemen, fet out for the woods, where they thought they might probably get fome tidings of what was ftolen. In their way, they met with Tubourai Ta- maide and fome of the natives. This chief was made to underftand by ligns, that they had loft the quadrant, and that as fome of his countrymen muft have taken it, they infifted upon being fhewn the place where it was concealed. Having proceeded a few miles to- gether, after fome enquiry, Tubourai Tamaide was in- formed who the thief was, and it was found that he was then at a place about four miles diftant. As they had no arms but a brace of piftols, not caring to truft them- felves fo far from the fort, a meflage was difpatched to Captain Cook, requefting him to fend out a party to fupport them. The captain accordingly fet out with a party properly armed, after having laid an embargo upon all the canoes in the bay. In the mean time, Mr. Banks and Mr. Green pro- ceeded on their way, and at the place which had been mentioned, were met by one of Tubourai Tamaide's own people, bringing with him part of the quadrant; the cafe and the other parts of the inftrument were recovered foon afterwards, when it was found that it had received no real injury, though it had been takea to pieces. When they returned in the evening, they were much furprifed to find Tootahah under confinement in the fort, while a croud of the natives furrounded the gate, difcovering marks of the greateft anxiety for the fate of their chief. The occaiion of his detention originated from the conduct of the Indians: alarmed at Capt. Cook's having gone up the country with an armed party, moft of the natives left the fort that evening, and one of the canoes attempted to quit the bay. The lieutenant who commanded on board the mip, having it in charge not to fuller any canoe to depart, fent a boat to detain her, but ihe no fooner approached, than the Indians jumped into the fea. Tootahah being of rf 2 COOK'S FIRST Vo Y A GE the number, was taken up, and fent by. the lieutenant to the officer that commanded at the fort, who conclud- ed he fhould do right to detain him prifoner, while the poor chief thought of nothing but being put to death, till Capt. Cook caufed him to be returned, to the great joy of his countrymen. But the natives were ftill in- clined to bear this affair in their minds ; and as a proof of it, they neglected to fupply the market with provi- fions. Mr. Banks walking into the woods, heard great murmurings concerning the treatment of Toota- hah, who, as they laid, had been ill ufed and beaten, though Mr. Banks declared he was quite ignorant of his having received fuch treatment. The chief now fent for fuch hogs to be reftored as he had left behind him, at firft intending them as a prefent, which by this time, perhaps, he did not think the Englilh had merited ; but they refufed to fend them unlefs he would comehimfelf, thinking by an interview to promote a reconciliation ; and this they were the mor* deiious of, as they were told it would be a fort- night before he would pay them a vifit. On the gd provifions were extremely fcarce, as the markets continued to be ill fupplied on the account already mentioned; and it was not without fome dif- ficulty, that Mr. Banks got a few bafkets of bread-fruit from Tubourai Tamaide. Tootahah on the 4th fent tor an axe and a fhirt in return for the hogs, which \vere accordingly promifed to be brought him the next day. He fent again early in the morning of the 5th, and Mr. Banks and the Doclor fet out in the pin- nace, taking with them one of Tootahah's people, and foon reached Eparre, where he redded, which was a few miles to the weft ward. When they arrived there, they found a great number of the natives waiting for them on the ihore, and were conducted directly to the chief, the people notwithftanding the oflt:nce they had fo lately taken, fronting out in their language, " Too tahah is your friend."' He was fitting under a tree, and fome old men were {landing about him. Having made figns for them to be feated, he alked for the ax and occurrences during this expedition A burymg-place> and a Morai, or place of worfoip defcribedAn inland expedition of Mr. flanks Preparations made by the crew of the Endeavour to leave the ijland ofOtaheiie An account of the departure of the Endeavour, and the behaviour of the natives, parti- cularly of'Tupid, on this occajion. ON the 1 2th of this month (May) an uncommon ceremony was performed by fome of the natives. As Mr. Banks was fitting in his boat, trading with them as ufual, fome ladies, who were ftrangers, ad- vanced in proceffton towards him. The reit of the Indians on each fide gave way, and formed a lane for the vifitors to pals, who coming up to Mr. Banks, pre- fcntcd him with fome parrots feathers, and various kinds* of plants. Tupid, who Hood by Mr. Banks, afted as his matter of the ceremonies, and receiving the, branches, which were brought at fix different times, laid them down in the boat. After this fome large bundles of cloth were brought, coniifting of nine pieces, which being divided into three parcels, one of the women, called Oorattooa, who appeared to be the principal, llepping upon one of them, pulled up her iToalhs as high as her \vaift, and then, with an air of undJcctcd Simplicity, turned round three times, fhis ceremony R O U N D T H E W O R L D. 6j ceremony die repeated, with fimilar circumftances, on the other two parcels of cloth ; and the whole being then prefented to Mr. Banks, the ladies went and ialuted him ; in return for which extraordinary favours, he made them fuch prefents as he thought would beft pleafe them. In the evening the gentlemen of the fort were vifited by Oberca, and Otheorea, her fa- vourite female attendant, who was a very agreeable girl, and whom we were the more pleafed to fee, be- caufe it had been reported that me was either fick or dead. On the 1 3th Tubourai Tamaide offended Mr. Banks, by matching his gun out of his hand, and firing it in the air; an acHon which a.lfo much furprized that gen- tleman, as he imagined him totally ignorant of the ufe of it. And as the ignorance of the people of thofe countries in regard to this particular, muft always caufe them to fear their guefts, Mr. Banks therefore made a ferious matter of what, probably, the other meant only as a joke, and, not without threats, gave him to underftand, that for him but to touch the piece was a high infult. The offender made no reply, but fet out immediately, with his family, fur Eparre. Great incon- venience being apprehended from this man, and as in many inftances he had been particularly ufeful, Mr. Banks determined to follow him. He fet out the fame evening from the fort, accompanied by Mr. Molineux, and found him in the middle of a large circle of people, ithe picture of extreme grief, which was alfo viiible in the countenances of his attendants. One of the women expreffed her trouble in the fame manner as Terapo had clone, upon another occafion. Mr. Banks loft no time in endeavouring to put an end to all animofity, The chief was foothed into confidence, and, a double canoe being got ready, they all returned together to the fort before (upper : and as a pledge of (incere re^ conciliation, both he and his wife palled the night in the tent of Mr. Banks. That very night, notwithftand- ing their prefence, one of the natives attempted tofcale i 2 the 68 COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE thcbarricadoesof the fort-, but, being difcovercd by one of our ccntinels, he ran away much falter than any of our people could follow him! The temptation which caufed him to attempt what might have coft him hig life, \ras> doubtlefs tnc iron and iron tools which were in ufe at the armourer's forge i incitements to theft which none of the Indians could refift, On Sunday the i^th, in the morning divine fervice \vas performed at the fort. We hoped to have had the piefence of fome of the Indians, but before the time fixed on for beginning the fervice, moft of them were gone home. Tubourai TamaJde and his wife were prefent, but though they behaved with much decency, they made no cruqxiiries with refpect to the ceremonies, and their brethren were as little inquifitive upon their return. The day thus begun with acts of devotion, was concluded with thofe of lewdnefs exhibited among the natives by way of entertainment. Among the reft a young fellow lay publickly with a girl about twelve years of age, in the prelence of many of our people, and a great number of the Indians, without the leail icnfe of impro- priety or indecency. Oberea, and fome women of the firft rank in the country were fpectators, who even gave inuructions to the girl how to perform her part, vhich, young as ihe was, feemed ur.neccfiary. Qn Monday the ijth, Tubourai Tamaide was de- tected in having committed a theft. Mr. Banks had a good opinion of this chief, but, when his honefty was put to the teft, a baiket of nails, left in the corner of the tent proved irrefiftible. He confefied the fa ft of having ftolen four nails, but when reftihj.tiori was demanded, Tamaide laid the nails were at Kparre, High words pRfied on the occafion, and, in the end, the Indian produced one of the Rails, and was to be for- given on refloring the reft; but hisvirtijewas not equal to the ta(k, and 'he withdrew himfelf, as ufnal, when had committed any oHence. At this time our long, it was lo much eaten with worms, that it was found Harv to give her a new bottom. On examining R O U X D T H E \V O R L D. 6} the pinnace, thinking flie might be in the fame flate, we had the fatisfaction to perceive, that not a worm had touched her. This difference in the condition of the two boats we attributed to the different ingredients with which their bottoms were paid; the long-boat had been paid with varnim of pine, and the pinnace painted with white lead and oil; which laft coating we think to be the moil: eligible for the bottoms of all boats intended for this part of the world. On the 24th, Mr. Hicks was fent to Tootahah, who had removed from Eparre to a place called Tettahah. The chief having fent ieveral times to requeft a vilit from the captain, promifing, at the fame time, that he would acknowledge the favour by a prefent of fome hogs, the bufinefs of Mr. Hicks was, to obtain, if poflible, the hogs, upon eafier terms than the required vifit. He was received in a friendly manner by Too- tahah, who, upon his arrival, produced one hog only, but promised three more that were at a diftance the next morning. Mr. Hicks waited patiently till the ap- pointed time; but when the morning came, he was obliged to depart with the fingle hog that had been pre- (en ted to him. On the 2 jth, Mr. Banks feeing Tubourai Tamaide and his wife Tornio at the tent for the firft time iince the former had been detected in ftealing the nails,- he endeavoured to perfuade him to reftore them, but in vain. As oiir gentlemen treated him with a referve and coolnefs which he could not but perceive, his ilay was fhort, and he departed in a very abrupt manner ; nor could our f urge on the next morning perfuade to effect a reconciliation bv bringing down the nails. On the 2-th, Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, Captain Cook, and fome others, fet put in the pinnace to vifit Tootahah, who had again removed to a place called Atabourou, fix miles from bis laft abode; and not be?- ing able to go half way thither in a boat, it was almoft .evening before we arrived. We found the chief, as fifual, fitting under a tree \yith a great crowd about 2 him. 70 COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE him. Having made our prefents in due form, con- fifting of a yellow ftuff petticoat, and other trifling ar- ticles, we were invited to iupper, and to pafs the night there. Our party confifted of fix only ; but the place was crowded with a greater number than the houfes and canoes could contain. Among other guefts were Oberea with her train of attendants. Mr. Banks having ac- cepted of a lodging in Oberea's canoe, left his compa- nions in order to retire to reft. Oberea had the charge of his cloaths; but notwithstanding her care, they were ftolen, as were alfo his piftols, his powder horn, and feveral other things out of his waiftcoat pockets. An alarm was given to Tootajiah, in the next canoe, who went with ^Oberea in fearch of the thief, leaving Mr. Banks with only his breeches and v. aiftcoat on, and his mufket uncharged. They foon returned, but with- out fuccefs. Mr. Banks thought proper to put up with the lofs at prefent, and retired a fecond time to reft ; juft as he had compofed himfelf to fleep, he was rouzed by fome mufic, ai}d obferved lights at a little diftance from the more. He then rofe to go and find his companions. As foon as he approached the lights, he found the hut where Captain Cook and three others of the gentlemen lay, when he began to relate his mif-r adventure to them ; they told him in return, that they had loft their ftockings and jackets. In effect Dr. So-? lander, who joined them the next morning, was the only one that efcaped being robbed, and he had flept at a houfe that was a mile diilant. This accident, how-r ever, did not prevent Captain Cook, Mr. Banks, and the reft that were at the hut, from attending to the mufic, which was a fort of concert called Helva, and confifted of drums, flutes, and feveral voices. They retired again to their repofe, after this entertainment was over. Their cloaths, and the other things which had been ftolen, were never heard of afterwards, but Mr. Banks got fome cloaths from Oberea, in which he made a whimfical appearance. On ROUN& THE WORLD. 71 On the 28th, we fet out for the boat, having ob- tained only one hog, which had been intended for our fupper the preceding night ; fo that all things con- fidered, we had little reafort to be fatisfied with our ex- curikm. On our return to the boat, we had a fpeci- men of the agility of the Indian fwimmers, fome o whom, merely for divei fion, fwam in a furf where no European boat could have lived, and where our beft fwimmers mull have periihed, had they accidentally fallen in with it. At this time the preparations were made for viewing the tranfit of Venus, and two parties were fent out to make obfervations from different fpots, that in cafe of failing in one place they might fucceed in another. They employed themfelves for fome time in preparing their inftruments, and inftructing thofe gentlemen who were to go out, in the ufe of them; and on Thurf- day the firfl: of June, they fent the long-boat with Mr. Gore, Mr. Monkhoufe (the two obfervers) and Mr. Sporing, the latter of whom was a friend of Mr. Banks, with proper inttruments to Emayo. Others were fent to find out a fpot that might anfwer the purpofe, at a convenient diftance from their principal itation. The party that went towards Emayo, after rowing the greater part of the night, having hailed a canoe, were informed of a place by the Indians on board, which was judged proper for their obfervatory, where they accordingly fixed their tents. It was a rock that rofe out of the water about 140 yards from the ftiore. Saturday the 3d (the day of the tranJit) Mr. Banks, as foon as it was light, left them, in order to go and get frefli proviiions on the ifland. This gentleman had the fatisfaclion to fee the fun-rife without a cloud. The king, whofe name was Tarrao, came to pay him a vifit, as he was trading with the natives, and brought with him Ntina his lifter. As it was cuftomary for the people in thefe parts to be feated at their confer- ences, ?t COOK'S FIRST VOYAGS ences, Mr. Banks fpread his turban of Indian cloth, which he wore as a hat, ilport the ground, on which they all fet down. Then a hog and a dog, fome cocoa- nuts, and bread-fruit were brought, being the king's piefent, and Mr. Banks lent for an adze, a fhirt, and fome beads, which Were prefented to his majefty, who received them with apparent fatisfe&ion. Tubourai Tamaide, and Tomio, who had gone with Mr. Banks, came from the obfervatory, when Tomio, who was laid to be related to Tarrao, gave him a long nail, and left a fhirt as a prefent for Nuna. Afterwards the king, his fitter, and three beautiful young women their at- tcndants, returned with Mr. Banks to the obfervatory, where he mewed them the tranfit of Venus, when that planet was upon the fun, and acquainted them, that to view it in that fituation was the caufe of his under- taking a voyage to thofc remoter parts. According to this gentleman's account, the produce of this ifland is nearly the fame with that of Otaheite ; the people alfo reiembled thofe of that ifland : he had feen many of them upon it who were acquainted with the nature of trading articles. The parties that were Cent out to make their obfervations on the tranfit, had good fue- cefs in the undertaking: though they differed rather more than might have been expected in their account of the contact. Mr. Green's account was as follows : Hours. Mm. Sec* The firft external contact 9 25 The firft internal contact, or total emcrfion - 9 44 The fccond internal contact, or beginning of the cmer- ~, fl n 3 14 The fecond external contact, or total cmerfion - o j 3 "" Latitude / MAX /O TAKE ITE,///< /M ROUND THE WORLD. ^3 Latitude of the obfervatory 17 deg. 29 min. 15 fee* foiith ; longitude, 149 deg. 32 min. 30 fee. weft from Greenwich. While the gentlemen and officers were bufied in viewing the tranfit, fome of the (hip's company hav- ing broke into the ftore-room, took the liberty of fteal- ing a quantity of fpike-nails. After a ftricr. fearch the thief was found out; he had, however, but few of the nails in his pofleffion; but he was ordered to receive two dozeli of lalhes, by way of example. On the 4th, the two parties fent out to obferve the tranfit were abfent ; on which account we deferred keeping his majefty's birth-day to the next day, the 5th, when we celebrated the feme ; feveral of the Indian chiefs partook of our entertainment, and in turn drank his majefty's health by the name of Kihiargo, the neareft imitation they could produce of king George. About this time an old female of fome diftinclion dy- ing, gave the Englifh an opportunity of obferving the Ceremonies ufed by thefe iflanders in difpofing of the dead bodies of their people ; which, as we have ob- ferved, they do not direclly bury. The reader has al- ready feen the defcription of the bier, the placing the bread-fruit, &c. which, according to Tubourai Ta- maide's account, was a kind of offering to their gods. In the front of the fquare fpace, a fort of ftile was placed where the relations of the decealed ftood to give token of their grief. There were under the awning fome pieces of cloth, whereon were the tears and blood of the mourners, who ufed to wound themfelves with a mark's tooth upon thefe occafions. Four temporary houfes were erected at a fmall diftance, in one of which remained fome of the relations of the deceafed; the chief mourner relided in another ; and was drefled in a particular manner, in order to perform a certain teremony. When the ccrpfe is rotten, the bones are buried near the fpot, and thefe places were found to anfwer the purpofes of religious w r orfliip, though Cap- tain Wallis could not perceive the traces of any fuch No, 3. K worfhip 74 COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE worfhip among them. Concerning the ceremony we are about to Ipeak of, the following is the account we have of it, which may not be unentertaining to the cu- rious reader. It was performed on the loth, and Mr. Banks was fo defirous of being prefent, that he agreed to take a part in it, when he was informed that he could not be a fpeftator on any other condition. He went accordingly in the evening, to the place where the body \vas depolited, where he was met by the relations of the deceafed, and was afterwards joined by feveral other perfons. Tubourai Tamaide was the principal mourner* whofe drefs was whimlical, though not altogether un- graceful. Mr. Banks was obliged to quit his European drefs, and had no other covering than a fmall piece ot cloth that was tied round his middle; his body was blacked over with charcoal and water, as wei e the bo- dies of feveral others, and among them fome females, who were no more covered than himfelf. The proccf- fion then began, and the chief mourner uttered fome \vords which were judged to be a prayer, when he approached the body, and he repeated thefe words as he came up to his own houfe. They afterwards went on, by permiflion, towards the fort. It is ufual for the reft of the Indians to fhun thefe proceflions as much as pofiible; they accordingly ran into the woods in great hafte, as foon as this came in view. From the fort the mourners proceeded along the fliore, crofled the river, then entered the woods, palling feveral houfes, which became immediately uninhabited, and during the reft of the proceilion, which continued for half an hour, not an Indian was vifible. Mr. Banks filled an office that they called Niniveh, and there were two ethers in the fame character. \Vhen none of the other natives were to be feen, they approached the chief mourner, faying Imatata ; then thoie who had aflifted at the ceremony bathed in the river, and refumed their former drefs. Such was this uncommon ceremony, in which Mr. Banks performed a principal part, and re- ived applaufe from Tubourai Tamaide, the chief mourner. What can have introduced un:or-- thefe In- Q ROUN D TH E Wo R LD. 75 dians fo ftrange^cuftom as that of expoiing their dead above ground, till the ftefh is confumed by putrefac- tion, and then burying the bones, it is perhaps impof- fible to guefe; nor is it lefs difficult to determine, why the repofitories of their dead mould be alfo places of worfhip. On the 1 2th, the Indians having loft fome of their bows and arrows, and ftrings of plaited hair, a com- plaint was made to the captain. The affair was en- quired into, and the fact being well atteftcd, the of- fenders received each t\vo dozen of lames. The fame clay Tubourai Tamaide brought his bow and arrows, in order to decide a challenge of mooting between him and Mr. Gore; but it appeared they had miftaken each other, Mr. Gore intending to difcharge his arrow at a mark, while the Indian meant only to try who could moot fartheft. The challenge was dropped in confe- quence of the miftake being difcovered; but Tubou- rai Tamaide, in order to difplay kis fkill, kneeling down, fhot an arrow, unfeathered (as they all are) near the fixth part of a mile, dropping the bow the inftant the arrow was difcharged. Mr. Banks having this morning met feveral of the natives, and being in- formed, that a mufical entertainment was expected in the evening, he, and the reft of the Engliih gentle- men refolved to be prefent at the fame. They went accordingly, and heard a performance on drums and flutes by a kind of itinerant muficians. The drum- mers fung to the mulic, and the Englifh were much furprized when they found that they were the fubject of their lays. The fongs they therefore concluded to be extemporary efFufions, the rewards whereof were iuch neceflaries as they required. On the 1 4th, in the night, an iron coal rake for the oven was ftole; and many other things having at dif- ferent times been conveyed away, Capt. Cook judged it of fome confequence, to put an end, if poffible, to fuch practices, by making it their common intereft to prevent it. He had already given ftrict orders, that the centinels fhould not fire upon the Indians, even if K 2 they 7 6 COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE they were detefted in the fact; but many repeated de t predations determined him to make reprizals. About twenty rfeven of their double canoes with fails were juft arrived, containing cargoes of fifh; thefe the cap- tain feized, and then gave notice, that unlefs the rake, and all the other things that had been ftolen, were re- rurned, the veffels mould be burnt. The menace pro- duced no pther effect than the reftitution. of the rake, all the other things remaining in their poffeffion. The captain, however, thought fit to give up the car- goes, as the innocent natives were in great diftrefs for want of them, and in order to prevent the confufion arifmg from difputes concerning the property of the different lots of goods which they had on board. About this time another incident had nearly, notwith- standing all our caution, embroiled us with the In- dians. The captain having fent a boat on ihore to get b.illaft, the officer not meeting immediately with whac he wanted, began to pull down one of the fepulchral mar.iions of the dead ; which facrilegious act of vio- lence was immediately oppofed by the enraged iflanders. Intelligence of this difpute being received by Mr. Banks, he went to the place, and a reconciliation was, ioon effected, which put an end to the difpute, by lending the boat's crew to the river's fide, where a fuf- ficient quantity of Hones were to be had without a pof- fibility of giving offence. This was the only inftance in \\hjch they offered to oppofe us ; and (except the affair of the fort, which has been related) the only in- ililt offered to an individual, was, when Mr. Monk- houfe, the furgeon, took a flower from a tree which grew in one of their fepulchral inclofures. Upon this occafion, an Indian came fuddenly behind him and ftruck him ; Mr. Monkhoufe laid hold of the affailant, but two of his countrymen refcuedhim, and then they all ran off as faft as they could. On the i pth in the evening, while the canoes were ftill detained, Oberea and feveral of her attendants paid us a vifit. She came from Tootahah's palace, in a double canoe, and brought with her a hog, bread- fniit, ROUND THE WORLD. 77 fruit, and other prefents, among which was a dog; but not a finale article of the thiners that had been t jtolen : thefe fhe faid had been taken away by her fa- vourite Obadee, whom fhe had beaten and difmiffed. She feemed however confcious that her ftory did not jileferve credit, and appeared at firft much terrified ; though Ihe furaiounted her fears with great fortitude, and was defirous of ileeping with her attendants in Mr. Banks' s tent ; but this being refufed, fhe was obliged to pafs the night in her canoe. A whole tribe of Indians would have flept in the ball tent, but were not permitted. The next morning Oberea returned, putting herfelf wholly in our power, when we accepted of her prefents, which Ihe doubtlefs thought, and juftly too, the moft effectual means to bring about a recon- ciliation. Two of her attendants were very affiduous in getting themfelves hufbands, in which they fucceed- ed, by means of the furgeon and one of the lieutenants; they feemed very agreeable till bed -time, and deter- mined to lie in Mr. Banks's tent, which they accord- ingly did, till the furgeon having fome words with one of them Mr. Banks thruft her out, and fhe was follow- ed by the reft, except Otea-Tea, who cried fome time, and then he turned her out alfo. This had like to have become a ferious affair, a duel being talked of between Mr. Banks and Mr. Monkhoufe, but it was Jiappily avoided. We had been informed that in this Ifland dogs were efteemed more delicate food than pork, as thofe bred by the natives to be eaten, fed en- tirely upon vegetables. The experiment was tried. Tupia undertook to kill and dreis the dog, which he did, by making a hole in the ground, and baking it. We all agreed it was a very good difh. On the 2 ift we were vifited by many of the natives, who brought with them various prefents. Among the reft was a chief, named Oamo, whom we had not yet feen. He had a boy and a young woman with him, The former was carried on a man's back, which we confidered as a piece of ftate, for he was well able to \valk. Oberca and fome of the Indians went from the 7 S Cook's FIRST VOYAGE the fort to meet them, being bareheaded, and un- covered as low as the waift ; circumftances we had noticed before, and judged them marks of refpeft, which was ufually (hewn to perfons of high rank. \Vhen Oamo entered the tent, the young woman, though feerningly very curious, could not be prevailed upon to accompany him. The youth was introduced by Dr. Solander, but as foon as the Indians within faw him, they took care to have him very foon fent out. Our curiofity being raifed by thefe circumftances, we made enquiry concerning the ftrangers, and were in- formed, that Oamo was the huiband of Obcrea, but that by mutual confent they had been for a con- fiderable timefeparated, and the boy and girl were their children. The former was called Terridiri : he was heir apparent to the fovereignty of the iflands, and when he had attained the proper age, was to marry his filler. The prefent fovereign Outou, was a minor, and the fon of a prince, called Whappai. Whappai, Oamo, and Tootahah, were all brothers ; Whappai was the eldcft, and Oamo the fecond ; wherefore Whappai having no child but Outou, Terridiri was heir to the fovereignty. To us it appeared fingular, that a boy fhouM reign during the life of his father , but in the ifland of Ouheite, a boy fucceeds to his father's autho- rity and title as foon as he is born ; but a regent being iicceflhry, that ofiice, though elective, generally falls upon the father, who holds the reins of government till the child is of age. The reafon that the election had fallen upon Tootahah was on account of his warlike exploits among his brethren. Oamo was very inquifi- tive, alking a number of queftions concerning the En- glifh, by which he appeared to be a man of under- ftanding and penetration. At this time, a woman named Teetee, who came from the weft of the ifland, prefentcd to the captain an elegant garment. The ground was a bright yellow, it was bordered with red, and there were feveral crofles in the middle of it, which they had probably learned from the French. On the 2.jd in the morning, one of our hands be- ing ROUND THE WORLD. 79 ing miffing, we enquired for him among the natives, and were told he was at Eparre, Tootahah's refidence in the wood, and one of the Indians offered to fetch him back, which he did that evening. On his return he informed us, that he had been taken from the fort, and carried to the top of the bay by three men, who forced him into a canoe, after having ftripped him, and con- dueled him to Eparre, where he received fome cloaths from Tootahah, who endeavoured to prevail on him to continue there. We had reafon to conclude this account true, for the natives were no fooner acquainted with his return , than they left the fort with precipitation . On June the 2 6th, early in the morning, Capt. Cook fetting out in the pinnace with Mr. Banks, failed to the eaftward with a clefign of circum-navigating the ifland. They went onfhore in the forenoon, in a dif- trict in the government of Ahio, a young chief, who at the tents had frequently been their viiitant. And here alfo they faw feveral other natives whom they knew. Afterwards they proceeded to the harbour where M. Bougainville's veffel lay, when he came to Otaheite, and were ihewn the watering place, and the fpot where he pitched his tent. Coming to a large bay, when the Englifh gentlemen mentioned their defign of going to the other fide, their Indian guide, whofe name was Titubaola, faid he would not accompany them, and alfo endeavoured to difluade the captain and his people from going ; obferving, " That country was inhabited by people who were not fubjeft to Tootahah, and who would deftroy them all." Notwithftanding, they refolved to put their de- fign in execution, loading their pieces with ball ; and ,at laft Titubaola ventured to go with them. Having rowed till it was dark, they reached a narrow ifthmus which fevered the ifland in two parts, and thefe formed dillinct governments. However, as they had not yet got into the hoftiie part of the country, it was thought proper to go onlhoretofpendthe night where Ooratova, the lady who had paid her compliments in fo extraoi- diriar'y a manner at the fort, provided them with -a fup- i per, 80 COOK'S FIRST VOY Ad per, and they proceeded for the other government iti the morning. They afterwards landed in the diftricl of a chief called Maraitata, and his father was called Pahairede. The former of thefe names fignifies the burying place of men, and the other the Jlealer of boats. Thefe people gave the captain a very good reception, fold them a hog for a hatchet, and furnifhed them with provifions. A crowd of the natives came round the En- trlifh gentlemen, amongft whom however they met only two with whom they were acquainted ; but they faw feveral European commodities, yet they perceived none that came out of the Endeavour. Here they faw two twelve pound Ihot, one of which had the king's broad arrow upon it, yet the natives faid they had them from M. Bougainville. They afterwards advanced till they reached that diftrid which was under the government of Waheatua, who had a ion : it was not known in whofe hands the fovereign power was depofited. There they found a fpacious plain with a river which they were obliged to pafs over in a canoe, though the Indians that followed them fwam over without any difficulty. They proceeded on their journey for A confiderableway along the more, till at latt they were met by the chief, whd had with him an agreeable woman, of about twenty-twd years of age, who was called Toudidde. Her name was not unknown to the Englifti, who had often heard of it and me was fuppofed to bear the fame rank here as Obei ea bore in the other part of the ifhnd. The parts through which they now pafied, appeared to be better cultivated than any of the reft, and the burial places were more in number. They were neat, and ornament- ed with carvings ; and in one n cock was feen, which V.MS painted with the various colours of the bird. Though the country was apparently fertile, very little bread-fruit was to be found here, a nut called Ahee^ furniming the principal fubilftance of the inhabi- tants. Being fatigued with their journey, they went on board their boat, and landed in the evening on aniiland which was called Otooareite, to feek for refrefliment. Mr. Banks ROUND THE WORLD 81 Banks going into the woods for this ptlrpofe, when it 'was dark could difcover only one houfe, wherein he found fome of the nuts before mentioned, and a little bread-fruit. There was a good harbour in the foutherit part of this ifland, and the furrounding country ap- peared to be extremely fruitful. Landing at about three miles diftance they found fome of the natives v/hom they well knew, yet it was not without difficulty that they obtained a few cocoa-nuts before they de- parted. When they came a little farther to the eaft- \vard, they landed again, and here they were met by Mathiabo, the chief, with whom they were not at all acquainted. He fupplied them with bread-fruit and cocoa-nuts, and they purchafed a hog of him for a glals bottle, which he chofe in preference to all the other articles prciented before him. A turkey-cock and a goofe were feen here, which were much admired by the natives, and were fuppofcd to have been left there by GjpU Wallis's people. They obfervcd in a houfe near the fame place feveral human jaw-bones, which feem- ed frefh, and had not loft any of the teeth> and were faftened to a board, of a fernicircular figure; but they could not get any information of the caufe of this ex- traordinary appearance. When they left the place, the chief piloted them over the fhoals. In the evening they opened the bay on the north-weft fide of the iiland, which anfwered to that on the fouth-eaft in luch a manner as to inter- feet it at the ifthmus. Several canoes came off here> and fome beautiful women giving tokens that they flioukl be glad to fee them on fliore, they readily ac- cepted the invitation. -They met with a very friendly reception from the chief whofe name was Wiverou, who gave directions to fome of his people to afiift them. in dreiling their provifions, which were now very plen- tiful, and they flipped at Wiverou's houfe in company with Mathiabo. Part of the houfe was allotted for them -to fleep in, and foon after fupper they retired to reft. Mathiabo having borrowed a c'oak of Mr. Banks, under the notion of ufing it as a coverlet \v<;cn lie iay No. 3. 1^ down, 82 COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE down, made off with it without being perceived either by that gentleman or his companions. However, news of the robbery being prefently brought them by one of the natives, they fet out in purfuit of Mathiabo, but had proceeded only a very little way before they were met by a perfon bringing back the cloak which this chief had given up rather through fear than from any principle of honeily. On their return they found the "houfe entirely deferted ; and, about four in the morn- ing, the centinel gave the alarm that the boat was mi/ling. Captain Cook and Mr. Banks were greatly aftonimed at this account, and ran to the water-fide ; but though it was a clear flar-lio-ht morninsr, no boat ^ O O 7 was to be ieen. Their fituation was now, cxtrtflnely dif- agreeable. The party confifted of no more than four, having with them only one mufquet and two pocket piftols, without a fpare ball or a charge of powder. After having remained fome time in a ftate of anxiety, arifing from thefe circumfcances, of which they feared the Indians might take advantage, the boat which had been driven away by the tide, returned ; and Mr. Banks and his companions had no fooner breakfafted than 'they departed. This place is fituated on the north fide of Tiarrabou, the fouth eaft peninfula of the ifhnd, about five miles eaft from the ifthmus, with a harbour equal to any in thofe parts, It was fertile and populous, and the inhabitants every where behaved 'with great civility. The hft difti icl in Tiarrabou, in which they land- ed, was governed by a chief named Omoe. He Was then building a houfe, and was very earneft to pur- chafe a hatchet, but the gentlemen had not one left. He would not trade for nails, and they embarked, the chief, however, following them in his canoe with his wife. They were afterwards taken on board, but when they had failed about a league, defired to be put on Ihorei Their requeft was complied with, when the 1 captain met with fome of Omoe's people, who brought with them a very large hog. The chief agreed to eX- d^iir^e the hog for an axe and a nail, and to bring the ROUND THE WORLD. 83 beaft to the fort. As the hog was a very fine one, Mr. Banks accepted the offer. They faw at this place one of the Indian Eatuas, a fort of image, made of wicker- work, which refembled a man in figure ; it was near feven feet in height, and was covered with black and white feathers ; on the head were four protuberances, called by the natives Tata ete, that is, little men. Having taken their leave of Omoe, the gentlemen fet out on their return. They went on more again, after they had rowed a few miles, but faw nothing, except a lepulchral building, which was ornamented in an ex- traordinary manner. The pavement, on which was erected a pyramid, was very neat ; at a fmall diftance there was a ftone image, very uncouthly carved, but which the natives feemed to hold in high eftimation. They pafled through the harbour, which was the only one fit for fliipping, on thefouth'of Opoureonou, fituate about five miles to the weftward of the iilhmus, be- tween two fmall iflands, not far from the iliore, anci within a mile of each other. They were now near the <.liftric"t called Paparra, which was that where Oamo and Obcrea governed, and where the travellers intended to fpend the night. But when Mr. Banks and his com- pany landed, about an hour before it was dark, it ap- peared they were both fet out to pay them a vifit at the fort. However, they flept at Oberea's houfe, which was neat, though not large, and of which there was no inhabitant but her father, who Ihewed them much civility. They took this opportunity of walking out upon .a point upon which they had obferved at a diftance fome trees called Etoa, which ufually grow upon the burial places of thefe iflanders. They call thofe burying grounds Morai. And here Mr. Banks faw a vaft build- ing, which he found to be the Morai of Oamo and Oberea, which was the moft confiderable piece of ar- chitecture in the ifland. It confifted of an enormous pile of ftone work, raifed in the form of a pyramid, with a flight of fteps on each lide. It was near 270 feet long, about one third as wide, and between 40 and L 2 50 feet 84 COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE 50 feet high. The foundation confided of rock ftones j the iteps were of coral, and the upper part was of round pebbles, all of the fame fhape and fize. The rock and coral-ftones were fquared with the utmofl jieatnefs and regularity, and the whole building ap- peared as compact and firm as if it had been erected by the beft workmen in Europe. What rendered this hit circumftance the more extraordinary was the confider ration that when this pile was raifed, the Indians mult have been totally deftitute of iron tools, either to fhape their {tones or for any other neceffary purpofe, nor had they mortar to cement them when made fit for ufe ; fo that a ftructure of fuch height and magnitude muft liave been a work of infinite labour and fatigue. In the centre of the fummit was the reprefentation of a bird carved in wood; clofe to this was the figure of a fim in ftone. The pyramid conflituted part of one fide of a court or fquare, the fides of which were nearly equal ; and the whole was walled in, and paved with flat itones, notwithstanding which pavement, feveral plan- tains, and trees which the natives callEtoa, grew with- in the inclofure. At a fmall diftance to the weftward of this edifice was another paved (quare that contained feveral fmall Itages, called Ewattas by the natives ; which appeared to be altars, whereon they placed the (Offerings to their gods. Mr. Banks afterwards obferved whole hogs placed upon thefe Mages or altars. On Friday the goth, they arrived at Otahoi on, where they found their old acquaintance Tootahah, who re- ceived them with great civility, and provided them a good iupper, and convenient lodging; and though they had been fo fhameful'.y plundered the laft time they flept with this chief, they'fpejit the night in the greatel Security, none of their cloaths nor any other article be- ing miffing the next morning. They returned to the fort at Port Royal Harbour qn the firft of July, having dilcovered the iiland, including both peninfulas, to be jjibjiit 100 miles in circumference. After their return from, this tour, they were very much in w-ant of bread-fruit, none of which they hacj ' KOUND THE WORLD. 85 been able to provide themfelves with, as they had feca but little in the courfe of their journey ; but their In- tlun friends coming round them, foon fupplied their want of provifions. On the 3d, Mr. Banks made an excurfion, in order to trace the river up the valley to its fource, and to re- mark how far the country was inhabited along the banks of it. He took fome Indian guides with him, and after having feen houfes for about fix miles, they came to one which was faid to be the laft that could be met with. The mafter prefented them with cocoa- nuts and other fruits, and they proceeded on their walk, after a fliort ftay. They often pafled through vaults formed by rocky fragments in the courfe of their journey, in which, as they were told, benighted tra- vellers fometimes took fhelter. Purfuing the courfe of the river about fix miles farther, they found it banked on both fides by rocks almoft 100 feet in height, and nearly perpendicular ; a way, however, might be traced up thefe precipices, along which their Indian guides would have conducted them, but they declined the of- fer, as there did not appear to be any thing at the fummit which could repay them for the toil and dan- gers of afcending it. Mr. Banks fought in vain for minerals among the rocks, which were naked almoft pn all fide$, but no mineral fubftances were found. The (tones every where exhibited figns of having been burnt, which xvas the cafe of all the ftones that were found while they ftaid at Qtaheite, and both there and jn the neighbouring iflands the traces of fire were evi- dent in the clay upon the hills. On the 4th, a great quantity of the feeds of water-melons, oranges, limes, and other plants, brought from Puo de Janeiro were planted on each fide of the fort, by Mr. Banks, who alfo plentifully fupplied the Indians with them, and planted many of them in the woods. Some melons, the feeds of which had been fown on the firft arrival pf the Engjifh at the ifland, grew up and flouriflied before they left it, By this time they began to think of making prepi- fatjons 6 COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE rations to depart ; but Oamo, Oberea, and their fon and daughter viiited them before they were ready to fail. As to the young woman (whofe name was Toimata) fhe was curious to fee the fort, but Oamo would not permit her to enter. The fon of Waheatua, chief of the fouth-eaft peninfula, was alfo here at the fame time ; and they were favoured with the company of the Indian who had been fo dextrous as to fteal the quadrant, as above related. The carpenters being ordered to take down the gates and palifadoes of the fort, to be con- verted into firewood for the Endeavour, one of the na- tives ftole the ftaple and hook of the gate ; he was pur- iiied in vain, but the property was afterwards reco- vered, and returned to the owners by Tubourai Ta- ipaide. Before their departure, two circumftances happened vrhich gave Capt. Cook fome uneafinefs. The firft was, that two foreign failors having been abroad, one of them was robbed of his knife, which as he was en- deavouring to recover, he was dangeroufly hurt with a ftone by the natives, and his companion alfo re- ceived a flight wound in the head. The offenders efcaped, and the captain was not anxious to have them taken, as he did not want to have any difputes with the Indians. Between the 8th and pth, two young marines one night withdrew themfelves from the fort, and in the morning were not to be met with. Notice having been given the next day that the fhip would fail that or the cnfuing day; as they did not return, Capt. Cook began to be apprehenfive that they defigned to remain on fliore; but as he was apprifed in fuch a cafe no effectual means could be taken to recover them without running a rifque of deftroying the harmony fubfifcing between the Englifh and the natives, he refoived to wait a day, in hopes of their returning of their own accord. But as they were ftill miffing on the tenth in the morn- ing, an enquiry was made after them, when the Indians declared, that they did not propofe-to return, having taken refuge among the mountains, where it was im- poffibie ROUND THE WORLD. 87 pofllble for them to be difcovered ; and added, that each of them had taken a wife. In confequence of this, it was intimated to feveral of the chiefs that were in the fort with the women, among whom were Tu- bourai Tamaide, Tomio, and Oberea, that they would not be fuffered to quit it till the deferters were pro- duced. They did not mew any figns of fear or difcon- tent, but allured the captain that the marines Ihould be ent back. In the mean time Mr. Hicks was dif- patched in the pinnace to bring Tootahah on board the mip, and he executed his commiflion without giving any alarm. Night coming on, Capt. Cook thought it not prudent to let the people, whom he had detained as hoftages, remain at the fort ; he therefore gave orders to remove them on board, which greatly alarmed them all, efpecially the females, who teftified the moft gloomy apprehenfions by floods of tears, Capt. Cook efcorted Oberea and others to the mip ; but Mr. Banks remained on more with fome Indians, whom he thought it of lefs importance to detain. la the evening one of the marines was brought back by fome of the natives, who reported, that the other and two of our men who went to recover them, would be detained while Tootahah was confined. Upon this Mr. Hicks was immediately fent off in the long boat, with a ftrong body of men to refcue the prifoners ; at the fame time the captain told Tootahah, that it was incumbent on him to allift them with fome of his peo- ple, and to give orders in his name, that the men mould be .fet at liberty; for that he would be expected to anfv/er for the event, Tootahah immediately com* plied, and this party rcleafed the men without any op- pofition. On the nth, about fevcn in the morning, they re- turned, but without the arms that had been taken from them when they were made prifoners ; thefe, however, being reiiored foon after, the chiefs on board were al- lowed to return, and thofe who had been detained on fliore were alfo fet at liberty. On examining the de- ferters it appeared, that the Indians had told the Jttuth, they *r 88 BOOK'S FIRSt VOYAGE""! they having chofen two girls, w-'th whom they have remained in the ifland. At this time the power of Oberea was not fo great as it was when the Dolphin firft difcovered the ifland. Tupia, whofe name has been often mentioned in this voyage, had been her prime minifter. He was alfo the chief prieft, confe- quently, well acquainted with the religion of the coun- try. He had a knowledge of navigation, and was tho- roughly acquainted with the number, fhuation, and inhabitants of the adjacent iflands. This chief had often exprefied a defire to go with us when we conti- nued our voyage. On the 1 2th in the morning he came on board, with a boy about twelve years of age, his fervant, named Taiyota, and requefled the gentlemen on board, to let him go with him. As we thought he might be ufeful to us in many particulars, we unanimoufly agreed to comply with his requeft. Tupia then went on fliore for the laft time to bid farewell to his friends, to whom he gave feveral baubles as parting tokens of remem- brance. Mr. Banks, after dinner, being willing to obtain a drawing of the Morai, which Tootahah had in his pofTeflion at Eparre, Capt. Cook accompanied him thither in the pinnace, together with Dr. Solancler. They immediately upon landing repaired to Tootahah's houfe, where they were met by Oberea and feveral others. A general good underftanding prevailed. Tupia came back with them, and they promiied to vifit the gentlemen early the next day, as they were told the Clip would then fail. On the 1 3th thefe friendly people came very early on board, and the fhip was furrounded with a vait number of canoes, filled \tith Indians of the lower fort. Between eleven and twelve we weighed anchor ; and notwithftanding all the little mifunderftandings be- tween the Englifh and the natives, the latter, whd poflerTed a great fund of good nature and much fen- fibility, took their leave, weeping in an affectionate manner. As to Tupia he fupported himfelf through this LoncLm ; Published as the Act directs , IryAlejd'Uoag, at tfw Kings Anns , N?i6, Paternoster r /FLY FLAP #^ Hland OHITEROA,^Y//TW< X / Handles /err we fame IrdlruirieTit,>v?'/7^ wt Otakeile . - ROUND THE WORLD. 891 this fcene with a becoming fortitude. Tears flowed from his eyes, it is true, but the effort that he made to conceal them did him an additional honour. He went with Mr. Banks to the maft head, and waging his hand took a laft farewell of his country. Thus we departed from Otaheite, after a ftay of juft three months. CHAP. V.* An biftorical and defcriptive Account of OtahciicOf the I/land and its Productions Of the Inhabitants their Drefs Dwellings Manner of living Diver/ions Manufactures -Arts Sciences Language Difeafes Religious Ceremonies- and Government. PORT Royal bay, in the Jfland of Otaheite, as fettled by captain Wallis, we found to be within half a degree of its real fituation ; and point Venus, the northern extremity of this ifland, and the eaftern part of the bay, lies in 149 deg. 30 min. longitude. A * We here beg leave to remark to oiir very NUMEROUS SUB- SCRIBERS, that this much admired Work is not only far preferable to any it'-:cr publication of the kind whatever, on account of its Elegance, ( heap- x'fs, Authenticity, and its including a full acceunt of all Capt. Cook's Voyages Complete, written in an admirably pleafmg and elegant ftyle, but alfo becaufe every Jingle Sheet of cur Letttr-prrjs comprehends at leaft double the quantity of Matter given in other Works of the kind, which, \*yfpin- tting out the fubjecl to an unnecejjary length, is offered to the public at mure than double the Price. Publications of this kind, which contain c/tfy z. fitigle V'tyage of the celebrated CAPT* COOK, we find are alfo uni- iN of ALL Capt. COOK's VOYAGES, &c. COM- PLETE, the public at large will be agreeably accommodated, not only by being poflelied at an eafy Rate of fuch a vaji Quantity of Matter included by our CLOSE Melbodof Printing, but likewife by acquiring at the fame Time all the SPLKNDID COPTER-PLATES, carefully, eifgnn'.ly and accu- rately take* from the ORIGINALS, in Numcc:-;, price s/&ij Sixpence tacb. No. 3. M reef 9 O COOK'S FIRST V Cf Y A G E reef of coral rocks furround the iiland, forming fe- veral excellent bays, among which, and equal to the beft of them, is Port Royal. This bay, called by the natives Matavai, may eafily be difcovered by a remark-' able high mountain in the center of the iiland, bearing due fouth from Point Venus. To fail into it, either keep the \veft point of the reef that lies before Point Venus, clofe on board, or give it a birth of near half a mile, in order to avoid a fmall flioal of coral rocks, whereon there is but two fathom and a half of wa- ter. The moft proper ground for anchoring is on the eaftern fide of the bay. The fhore is a fine fandy beach, behind which runs a river of freih water, very conve- nient for a fleet of mips. The only wood for firing upon the whole ifland is that of fruit trees, which muft be purchafed of the natives, or it is impoflible to live on friendly terms with them. The face of the coun- try is very uneven. It rifes in ridges that run up into the middle of the ifland, where they form mountains which may be feen at the diftance of fixty miles. Be- tween theie ridges and the fea is a border of low land of different breadths in different parts, but not exceed- ing any where a mile and a half. The foil being wa- tered by a number of excellent rivulets, is extremely fertile, and covered with various kinds of fruit trees, which form almoft one continued wood. Even the tops of the ridges are not without their produce in ibme parts. The only parts of the ifland that are in- habited, are the low lands, lying between the foot of the ridges and the fea. The houfes do not form vil- lages, but are ranged along the whole border, at about fifty yards difUnt from each other. Before them are little groups of the plantain trees, which furnifli them with cloth. According to Tupia's account, this ifland could furnifli above fix thoufand fighting men. The produce is bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, bananas, fweet po- tatoes, yam*, jumbu, a delicious fruit, lugar-canej the paper mulberry, feveral forts of figs, with many other plants and trees, all which the earth produces fponta- neoufly, ROUND THE WORLD. 91 fieoufly, or with little culture. But here are no Eu- ropean fruit, garden-fluff, pulfe, nor grain of any kind. The tame animals are hogs, dogs, and poultry , the wild, ducks, pigeons, parroquets, and a few other birds. The only quadrupeds are rats, and not a ferpent is to be found. In the fea is a great variety of excellent fiflj, which conftitutes their chief luxury, and to catch it their chief employment. Tfre people in general are of a larger make than the Europeans. The males are moftly tall, robuft, and finely fhaped ; the women of the higher clafs above -the fize of our Englifh ladies, but thofe of inferior rank are below our ftandard, and fpme of them very fhort. Their natural complexion is a fine clear olive, or what we call a brunette, their Ikin delicately fmooth, and agreeably foft. Their faces in general are hand- fome, and their eyes full of fenfibility. Their teeth are remarkably white and regular, their hair for the moft part black, and their breath is entirely free from any difagreeable fmell. The mem, unlike the original Inhabitants of America, have long beards, which they wear in vaiious fhapes. Circumcifion is generally prac? tifed among them from a motive of cleanlinefs, and they have a term of reproach with which they upbraid thofe who do not adopt this cuftom. Both fexes al- ways eradicate the hair from their arm-pits, and they reproached our gentlemen with want of cleanlinefs : their motions are eafy and graceful, and their beha- viour, when unprovoked, affable and courteous. Con<- trary to the cuftom of moft other nations, the women of this country cut their hair fhort, whereas the men wear it long, fometimes hanging loole upon th'-ir moulders, at other times tied in a knot on the crown of the head, in which they ftick the feathers of birds of various colours. A piece of cloth, of the manu- facture of the country, is frequently tied round the head of both fexes in the manner of a turban, and the wo- men plait very curioufly human hair into long firings,, feeing folded into branches, are tied on their M 2 foreheads $2 COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE foreheads by way of ornament. They have a cuftofij praclifed in many hot countries, of anointing their hair with cocoa-nut oil, the fmell of which is not very agreeable. Having, among their various inventions r.o forts of combs, they were infefted with vermin, which they quickly got rid of when furniihed with thofe convenient inrtruments. They ftain their bodies by indenting or pricking the fled with a fmall inftrumeht made of bone, cut into ihort teeth, which indentures they fill with a dark blue OP blackifh mixture, prepared from the fmoke of an ,oily nut (burnt by them inftead of candles) and wa^ ter. This operation, called by the natives Tattaowing, is exceedingly painful, and leaves an indelible mark on the (kin. It is ufually performed when they are about ten or twelve years of age, and on different parts of the body ; but thofe which fuffer moft fevercly are the breech and the loins, which are marked with arches, carried one above another a confiderable way up the back. Mr. Banks was prefenc at an operation of tat- taowing, performed upon the pofteriors of a girl about twelve years old. It was executed with an inftrument that had twenty teeth, and at each ftroke, which was repeated every moment, ferum mixed with blood iffued. She bore the pain with great refolution for feveral mi- nutes ; but at length it became fo intolerable, that foe murmured and burft into moft violent lamentations j but her operator was inexorable, whilft fome feTnales prefent both chid and beat her. Mr. Banks was a fpectator for near an hour, during which time one iide .only was tattaowed, the other having undergone the ce- remony fome tim.e before, and the arches upon the loins, which are the moft painful, but which they moft -value, were yet to be made. They cloath themfelves in cloth and matting of va- rious kinds : the fu'-ft they wear in fine, the latter in .wet .weather. Thefe are in different forms, no fhape feeing preferved in the pieces, nor are they fewed to- gether. The women of a fupcrior cUfs wear three PF R U N D T H E W R L D. JJ or four pieces. One, which is of confiderable length, they wrap feveral times round their waift, and it falls down to the middle of the leg. Two or three other fhort pieces, with a hole cut in the middle of each, are placed on one another, and their heads coming through the holes, the long ends hang before and behind, both fides being open, by which means they have the free life of their arms. The mens drefs is very fimilar, differing only in this mftance, that one part of the garment inftead of falling below the knees is brought between the legs. This drefs is worn by all ranks of people, the only diiiinction being quantity in the fuperior clafs. At noon both fexes appear almoft naked, wearing only a piece of .cloth that is tied round the waift. Their faces arc (haded from the fun with fmall bonnets, made of cocoa- nut leaves, or matting, which are conftructed in a few minutes. The men fometime wear a fort of wig of human or dog's hair, or of cocoa-nut firings, woven on a fingle thread, faftened under the hair, and hanging down behind. Both men and women wore ear-rings on one fide, confifting of fliells, ftones, berries, or fmall pearls ; but they foon gave the preference to the beads brought by the Endeavour's company. The boys and girls go quite naked ; the firft till they are fevcn or eight years old j the latter till they are about five. The natives of Otaheite feldom ufe their houfes but to fleep in, or to avoid the rain, as they eat in the open air, under the made of a tree. In thofe there are no divifions or apartments. Their cloaths fervethem for covering in the night. The mafter and his wife repofe in the middle ; then the married people ; next the un- married females ; then the unmarried men ; and in fair weather the fervants fieep in the open air. The houfes of the chiefs, however, differ in fome particulars. There are thofe that are very fmall, and fo conftructed as to be carried in canoes : all fides of them are inclofed yith the leaves of the cocoa-nut ; the air nevertheleft. .penetrates. In thefe the chief and his wife only fleep. We 94 COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE We likewife faw houfes that are general receptacles for the inhabitants of a diftricr, many of them being more than 200 feet in length, 40 in breath, and 70 or 80 feet high. They are conftructed at the common ex- pence, and have an area on one fide, furrounded with low palifadoes ; but like the others without walls. Their cookery confifts chiefly in baking, the manner of doing which has been before noticed. When a chief kills a hog, which is but feldom, he divides it equally amonghis vaflals. Dogs and fowls are more common food. When the bread-fruit is not in feafon, cocoa- nuts, bananas, plantains, &c. are fubftituted in its ftead. They bake their bread-fruit in a manner which i enders it fomewhat like a mealy potatoe. Of this three dimes are made, by beating them up with bananas, plantains, or four pafte, which is called by them Mahie. Sour pafte is made by taking bread-fruit not thoroughly ripe, and laying it in heaps covered with leaves, by which means it ferments. The core is then taken out, and the fruit put into a hole lined with grafs : it is then again covered with leaves, upon which large flones are placed; this produces afecond fermentation ; after which it grows four, without any other change for a long time. They take it from this hole as they have occafion for it, and make it into balls. It is then rolled up in plantain leaves and baked. As it will keep for fome weeks, they eat it both hot and cold. Such is the food of this people, their fauce to which is only fait water. As to their drink it is generally confined to water, or the milk of the cocoa-nut, though fome of them would drink fo freely of our Englifh liquors as to become quite intoxicated, fuch inftances, however, were occafioned more by ignorance than defign, as they were never known to practice a debauch of this kind a fecond time. We were told, it is true, that their chiefs fome- times became inebriated by drinking the juice of a plant called Ava, but of this we faw not a iingle in- ftance during the time we remained on the ifland. The chief eats generally alone, unlefs when vifited bv ROUND THE WORLD. 95 by a ftranger, who is permitted fometimes to be his mefs-mate. Net having known the life of a table, they fit on the ground, and leaves of trees fpread before them ferve as a table-cloth. Their attendants, who are numerous, having placed a balket by the chiefs, con- taining their provifions, and cocoa-nut fhells of freih and fait water, fet themielves down around them. They then begin their meals with the ceremony of wafiiing their mouths and hands; after which they eat a handful of bread-fruit and fifh, dipt in fait water alternately, till the whole is confumed, taking a fipof fait water between almofl every morfel. The bread- fruit and filh is fucceeded by a fecond courfe, confifting of either plantains or apples, which they never eat without being pared. During this time a foft fluid of pafte is prepared from the bread-fruit, which they drink out of cocoa-nut fhells: this concludes the meal; and their hands and mouths are again warned as at the beginning. Thefe people eat an aftonifhing quantity of food at a meal. Mr. Banks and others faw one of them devour three fifh of the lize of a fmall carp, four bread-fruits, as large as a common melon, thirteen or fourteen plantains feven inches long, and above half as big round; to all which was added a quart of the pafte by way of drink, to digeft the whole. The inhabitants of this ifland, though apparently fond of the pleafures of fociety, have yet an averlion to holding any intercourfe with each other at their meals; and they are fo rigid in the obfervation of this cuftom, that even brothers and fitters have their feparate bafkets of provilions, and generally fit at the diftance of fome yards when they eat, with their backs to each other, and not exchanging a word during the whole time of their repaft. The middle aged of fu- perior rank go ufually to fleep after dinner; but, which is fomewhat remarkable, older people are not fo indolent. Mulic, dancing, wreftling, and mooting with the bow, conftitute the greatelt part cf their diverfions. Flutes 56 COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE Flutes and drums are the only mufical inftruments among them. Their drums are formed of a circular" piece of wood, hollow at one end only. Thefe are co- vered with the Ikin of a mark, and beaten with the land inflead of a flick. Their fongs are extempore, and frequently in rhime, but they conlifl only of two lines; thefe couplets are often fung by way of evening aumfements, between fun-fet and bed-time; during which interval they burn candles made of an oily nut, fixing them one above another upon a fmall flick that Is run through the middle: fome of thefe candles will burn a long time, and afford a pretty good light. Among other amufements, they have a dance called Timorodee, which is generally performed by ten or a dozen young females, who put themfelves into the mod wanton attitudes, keeping time during the per- formance with the greateft nicety and exadnels. Pregnant women are excluded from thefe dances. One of the worft cuftoms of the people of Otaheite, is that which feveral of the principal people of the ifland have adopted of uniting in an ailbciation, wherein no woman confines herfelf to any particular man, by which means they obtain a perpetual fociety. Thele focieues are called Arreoy. The members have meet- ings where the men amufe themfelves with wreftling, and the women dance the Timorodee in fuch a man- ner as is moft likely to excite the defires of the other fex, and which were frequently gratified in the ailem- bly. A much worfe practice is the confequence of this. If any of the women prove with child, the in- fant is deftroyed, unlefs the mother's natural affection ihould prevail with her to preferve its life, which, however, is forfeited unlefs fhe can procure a man to adopt it. And where fhe fuccccds in this, fhe is expelled from the fociety, being called Whan- nownow,, which fignifies a bearer of children, by way of reproach. Perfonal cleanlinefs is much cfteemed among thefe Indians. Both fexes are particular in wafhing three times ROUND THE WORLD. 97 times a clay, viz. when they rife in the morning, at noon, and before they go to reft. They are alfo very cleanly in their cloaths, fo that no difagreeable effluvia are found to arife in the largeft communities. Cloth is the chief manufacture of Otaheite, and of this there are three forts, all which are made out of the bark of different trees, namely, the mulberry, the bread- fruit, and a tree which bears fome refemblance to the Weft-Indian wild fig-tree. The firft of thefe produces the fined cloth, which is feldom worn but by thofc of the firft rank. The next fort is made of the bread- fruit tree, and the laft of that which refembles the wild fig-tree. But this laft fort, though the coarfeft, is fcarcer than the other two, which are manufactured only in fmall quantities, as the fame manner is ufed in manufacturing all thefe cloths. The following defcrip- tion will fuffice for the reader's information. The bark of the tree being ftripped off, is foaked in water for two or three days ; they then take it out, and feparate the inner bark from the external coat, by fcraping it with a mell, after which it is fpread out on plantain leaves, placing two or three layers over one another, care being taken to make it of an equal thicknefs in every part. In this ftate it continues till it is almoft dry, when it adheres fo firmly that it may be taken from the ground without breaking. After this procefs, it is laid on a finooth board, and beaten with an inftrument made for that purpofe, of the com- pact heavy wood called Etoa. The inftrument is about fourteen inches long, and about feven in cir- cumference-, is of a quadrangular Ihape, and each of the four fides is marked with longitudinal grooves or furrows, differing in this inftance, that there is a regular gradation in the width and depth of the grooves on each of the fides; the coarfer fide not containing more than ten of thefe furrows, while the fined is furnimed with above fifty. It is with that fide of the malkt where the grooves are deepeft and wideft that they be- gin to beat their cloth, and proceeding regularly, finiili No. 3. N with 98 COOK'S FIRST VOYACTE with that which has the greatefi number. By this beat- ing, the cloth is extended in a manner fimilar to the gold that is formed into leaves by the hammer ; and it is alfo marked with fmall channels refembling thofe which are vifible on paper, but rather deeper ; it is in general beat very thin ; when they want it thicker than common, they take two or three pieces and pafte them together with a kind of glue prepared from a root called Pea. This cloth becomes exceedingly white by bleach- ing, and is dyed of a red, yellow, brown, or black co- lour; the firft is exceeding beautiful, and equal, if not jiiperior to any in Europe. They make the red colour from a mixture of the juices of two vegetables, neither of which uied feparately has this effect : matting of various kinds is another confiderable manufacture, in which, they excel, in many reipects, the Europeans. They make ufe of the coarfer fort to fleep on, and in wet weather they wear the finer. They excel in the bafket and wicker-work; both men and women em- ploy themfelves at it, and can make a great number of different patterns. They make ropes and lines of ail iizes of the bark of the Poerou, and their nets for filhing are made of thefe lines; the fibres of the cocoa- nut they make thread of, liich as they ufe to faften to- gether the feveral parts of their canoes; the forms of which are various, according to the ufe to which they are applied. Their fiming lines are efteemed the beft in the world, made of the bark of the Erowa, a kind of nettle which grows on the mountains ; they are ftrong enough to hold the heavieft and moft vigorous fifli, inch as bonettas and albicores ; in fliort, they are ex- tremely ingenious in every expedient for taking all kinds of fifli, The tools which thefe people make ufe of for build- ing houfes, conftrucling canoes, hewing Hones, and for felling, cleaving, carving, and polifliing timber, con- iilts of nothing more than an adze of ftone, and a chif- fel of bone, moft commonly that of a man's arm ; and for a file or polifher, they make ufe of a rafp of coral and R o tr N D T H E W o R L D. 99 and coral fand. The blades of their adzes are ex- tremely tough, but not very hard ; they make them of various fizes, thofe for felling wood weigh iix or feven pounds, and others which are ufed for carving, only a few ounces: they are obliged every minute to fharpen them on a ftone, which is always kept near them for that purpofe. The moft difficult talk they meet with in the ufe of thefe tools, is the felling of a tree, which em- ploys a great number of hands for feveral days together. The tree which is in general ufe is called Aoie, the ftem of which is ftraight and tall. Some of their fmaller boats are made of the bread-fruit tree, which is wrought without much difficulty, being of a light fpongy nature. Inftead of planes they ufe their adzes with great dexterity. Their canoes are all fhaped with the hand, the Indians not being acquainted with thq method of warping a plank. Of thefe they have two kinds, one they call Ivahahs, the other Pahies ; the former is ufed for fhort voyages at fea, and the latter for long ones. Thefe boats do not differ either in fhape or fize, but they are in no degree proportionate, being from fixty to feventy feet in length, and not more than the thirtieth part in breadth. Some are employed in going from one ifland to another, and others ufed for fiming. There is allb the Ivahah, which ferves for war ; thefe are by far the 1 longed, and the head and ftern are considerably above the body. Thefe Ivahahs are fattened together, fide by fide, when they go to fea, at the diftance of a fewfeet* by ftrong wooden poles, which are laid acrofs them and joined to each fide. A ftage or platform is raifed on the fore part, about ten or twelve feet long, upon which ftand the fighting men, whofe miffile weapons are flings and fpears. Beneath thefe ftagcs the rowers fit, who fupply the place of thofe who are wounded. The fiming Ivahahs are from thirty or forty to ten feet in length, and thofe for travelling have a fmall houfe fixed on board, which is fattened upon the fore- part, for the better accommodation of perfons of rank, who N 2 occupy loo COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE occupy them both day and night. The Pahies differ al(b in iize, being from fixty to feventy feet long, they are alfo very narrow, and are fometimes ufed for fight- ing, but chiefly for long voyages. In going from one iiiancl to another, they are out ibmetimes a month, and often at fea a fortnight or twenty days, and if they had convenience to flow more proviiions, they could flay out much longer. Thefe veffels are very ufeful in land- ing, and putting off from the more in a furf, for -by their great length and high ftern they landed diy, v hen the Endeavour's boats could fcarcely land at all. They are very curious in the construction of thefe boats, the chief parts or pieces whereof are formed fe- parately without either faw, plane, chiffel, or any other iron tool, which renders their fabrication more furprif- ing and worthy obfervation. Thefe parts being pre- pared, the keel is fixed upon blocks, and the planks are fupported with props, till they are fewed or joined together with ftrong plaited thongs, which are paffed Several times through holes bored with a chiffel or bone fuch as they commonly make uie of, and when finifhed, they are fufficiently tight without caulking. They keep thefe boats with great care in a kind of ftied, built on pui~pofe to contain them. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander were at a lofs to find out their method of dividing time, they always madeufe of the term Malama, which fignifies the moon ; when- ever they fpoke of time, either paft or to come, they reckon thirteen of thefe moons, beginning again when they are expired. This proves that they have fome idea of the folar year ; but thefe gentlemen could not dif- c.over how they computed their months, to make thir- teen equal to the year, as they faid thefe months confift- ed of twenty-nine days, one day in which the moon was invifible being included. They, however, knew the prevailing weather that was to be expecled, as well as the fruits that would be in feafon. As to the day, they divide it into twelve equal parts, fix of which be- long ROUND THE WORLD. 101 long to the day, and the other fix to the night. When they enumerate, they reckon from one to ten, making ufe of their fingers, and changing hands, till they come to the number which they intended to exprefs ; and joining exprefiive figns to their words, in the courfe of their converfation. But they are not fo expert in meafuring diftances, for when they attempt defcribing the fpace between one place and another, they are dliged to exprefs it by the time that would be taken in pafiing it. With regard to their language, it is foft, as it a- bounds with vowels, and eafy to be pronounced ; but very few of their nouns or verbs being declineable, it muft confequently be rather imperfect. However, we found means to be mutually underftood without much difficulty. The following fpecimen will poflibly enable the reader to form fome notion of the language of thofe iilanders. Aheine, a woman Aihoo, a garment Ainao, take care Aree, a chief Aouna, to-day Aoy, water Eahoo, the nofe Eawow, tofcold Eei, to eat Eeyo, look you Emoto, to box Epanoo, a drum Epeenei, an echo Epehe, a fong Erowroo, the head Huaheinc, a -wife Itopa, to fall Kipoo a meemhee, a cham- ber-pet M ah an a, a day MaiTOOvvhai, dry Matau, the eyes Matte roah, to die Mayneenee, to tickle Meyoooo, the nails Midee, a child Mutee, a k\ iHIiermen, as it feemed to be barren, and Bare Ifland j * was the name given to it, and to a head-land in latitude 40 deg. ;4 min. fouth, and longitude 182 deg. 55 min. weft, becaule the Endeavour turned, he gave the name of Cape Turnagain. It was never certainly known whether New /ealand was an ifland before this veflel touched there : on this account, the lords of the admi-- ralty had inftructcd Capt. Cook to fail along the coaits as far as 40 degrees fouth, and if the land extended farther, to return to the northward again. It was for this reafon that the captain altered his con rfc, when he arrived at the cape above-mentioned : the wind having likcwilc veered about to theibuth, he returned, failing along the coaft nearly in his former track. Between this and CapeKidnappers Bay, the land is unequal, and ioinewlr.it rcfemblo our downs and Imall villages, an4 many, ir.habitanu were cbfcrved. The fliip came abreaft ROUND T H E WOULD. 125 abroad of a peninfula, in Portland Ifland, named Tera- kako, on Wednefday the 191!!. At this time a canoe with five Indians came up to the vefTel. There were two chiefs among them, who came on board, and ftaid all night. One of thefe was a very comely perfon, and had an open and agreeable countenance. They were extremely grateful for the prefents which they received, and dii'played no fmall degree of curioiity. They would not eat or drink, but the iervants devoured the victuals fet before them with a moft voracious appetite. We gave the name of Gable End Foreland to a re- markable head-land, which we pafled on the i9th. Three canoes appeared here, and one Indian came on board to whom we gave fmall prefents before he with- dre\v. Many of thefe Indians wore pieces of green-done round their necks which were tranfparent, and refem- bled an emerald. Thefe being examined, appeared to be a fpecies of the nephritic ftone. Several pieces of it were procured by Mr. Banks, and it appeared that this furniihed the iflanders with their principal ornaments. The form of fome of their faces was agreeable ; their nofes were rather prominent than flat. Their dialecV was not fo guttural as that of others, and their language nearly refembled that of Otaheite. On Friday the 2oth we anchored in a bay two leagues to the north of the Foreland. To this bay we were in- vited by the natives in canoes, who behaved very ami- cably, and pointed to a place where they laid we mould find plenty of frem water. We determined here to get fome knowledge of the country, though the harbour was not fo good a ihelter from the weather as we expected. Two chiefs, whom we faw in the canoes, came on board, they were drcflcd in jackets, the one ornamented with tufts of red feathers, the other with dogs-lkin. We prefentcd to them linen and fome fpike nails, but they did not value the laft fo much as the inhabitants of the other iflands. The reft of the Indians traded with us w/thout the lead impofition, and we directed Tupia to acquaint them of our views in coining thither ; and promife, 126 COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE promife, that they mould receive no injury, if they offered none to us. In the afternoon the chief return- ed ; and towards the evening we went on more, accom- panied by the Captain, Dr. Solander, and Mr. Banks. We were courteoufly received by the inhabitants, who did not appear in numerous bodies, and in other in- ftances were fcrupuloufly attentive not to give offence. We made them ieveral fmall prefents, and in this agreeable tour round the bay, we had the plcafure of finding two Streams of frefk water. We remained on fliore all night, and the next day Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander discovered feveral birds,, among which were quails and large pigeons. Many ftages for drying fiili \vereobferved near where we landed, and fome houfes with fences. We fa\v dogs with pointed ears, and very ugly. Sweet potatoes, like thofe which grow in Ame- lica were found. The cloth plant grew Spontaneous. In the neighbouring valleys the lands were laid out in regular plantations ; and in the bay we caught plenty of crabs, cray-fim, and horfe-mackarel, larger than thofe upon the linglim coafts. The low lands were planted with cacoes; the hollows with gourds ; but as to the woods they were almoft impaffable, on account of the number of fupple- jacks which grew there. We went into feveral of the houfes belonging to the natives, and met with a very civil reception ; and, without the leaft referve, they mewed us whatever we defired to lee. At times we found them at their meals, which our prefence never interrupted. At this feafon fiili conftituted their chief food ; with which they eat, in- ftead of bread, roots of a kind of fern ; thcfe when roafted upon a fire are fweet and clammy : in taile not difagreeable, though rather unpleafant from the num- ber of their fibres. They have doubtlefs in other Sea- Jbns of the year an abundance of excellent vege- tables. The women of this place paint their faces with a mix- ture of reel ocre and oil, which, as they are very plain, renders them in appearance more homely. This kind of daubing being generally wet upon their cheeks and foreheads, ROUND T H E W o R L D. 127 foreheads, was eafily transferred to thofe who fainted them, as was frequently viiibie upon the nofcs of our people. The young ones, who were complete coquets, wore a petticoat, under which was a girdle, made of the blades of grafs ftrongly perfumed, to which was pendant a fmall bunch of the leaves of tome fragrant plant. The faces of the men were not in general painted ; but they were daubed with dry red ocre from head to foot, their apparel not excepteci. Though in peribnal cleanlinefs they were not equal to our friends at Otaheite, yet in fome particulars they iurpaffed them ; for their dwellings were furnimed with privies, and they had dunghills upon which their oftals and filth were deposited. Among the females chaftity was light- ly efteemed. They reforted frequently to the watering place, where they freely beftowed every favour that was requefted. An officer meeting with an elderly woman, he accompanied her to her houfc, and having prefented her with fome cloth and beads, a young girl was tingled out, with whom he was given to underiland he might retire. Soon after an elderly man, with two women came in as viiitors, who with much formality faluted the whole company, after the cuftom of the place, which is by gently joining the tips of their nofes together. On his return, which was on Saturday the 2 lit, he was furnimed with a guide, who whenever they came to a brook or rivulet took him on his back to prevent his being wet. Many of the natives were cu- rioufly tataowed, an old man in particular, was marked on the bread with curious figures. One of them had an axe made of the green Hone, which we could not purchafe, though functry things were offered in exchange. Thefe Indians at night dance in a very uncouth manner, with antic geftures, lolling out their tongues and making ftrange grimaces. In their dances old men as well as the young ones are capital performers. In the evening, Mr. Banks, being apprehenflve that we might be left on more after it was dark, applied to the Indians for one of their canoes to convey us on board the ihip. This they granted with an obliging manner, 128 COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE manner. We were eight in number, and not being ufcd to a veflel that required a nice balance, we overict her in the furf. No one however was drowned, but it was concluded, to prevent a fimilar accident, that half our number mould go at one time. Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, Tupia, and Taiyota, were the lirft party who embarked again, and arrived fafe at the iliip, as did the remainder of our company, all not a little plealed with the good nature of our Indian friends, who chear- fully contributed their afliftance, upon our fecond trip. During our ftay on more, fcveral of them went out in their canoes and trafficked with the {hip's company. At lirft they preferred the cloth of Otaheite to that of Europe, but in the courfe of a day it decreafed in its value five hundred per cent. Thefe people exprefTcd itrong marks of aftonifhment when me\vn the bark and her apparatus. This bay, which we now determined to quit, the natives call Tegadoo, and it is fituated in 38 cleg. 10 min.ibiithjatitude. On thesp-cfin the evening* being Sun day, we weighed anchor antl put to fea, but the wind being contrary we flood for another bay a little to the fouth, called by the natives Tolaga, in order to complete our wood and water, and to extend our correfpondence with the natives. In this bay we came to an anchor, in about eleven fathom water, with a good fandy bottom, the north point of the bay bearing north by eaft, and the fouth point fouth eaft. We found a watering-place in a fmall cove a little within the fouth-point of the bay, which bore fouth by eaft, diftant about a mile. Se- veral canoes with Indians on board, trafficked with us very fairly for glafs bottles. : (5n Monday the 2gd in the afternoon, we went on fhore accompanied by Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and the .captain. We examined and found the water ex- tremely good; all.b plenty of wood; and the natives fhewexl us as much civility as tliofc from whom we had lately departed. At this watering-place we let up an agronomical quadrant, and took feveral folar and lu- mrv observations. In the morning of the 24th. Mr. / . & , . Gore ROUND THE WORLD. 1257 Gore and the marines were fent on fliore to guard the people employed in cutting wood and filling the calks with water. Capt. Cook, Mr. Banks, and the doclor alfo went on ihore : the latter were employed in collecting plants. In our walks through the vales we faw many houfes uninhabited, the natives refiding chiefly in iheds, on the ridges of the hills, which are very fteep. In a valley between two veiy high hills, we faw a curious rock that formed a large arch, oppofite the fea. This cavern was in length about feventy feet, in breadth thirty, and near fifty in height, command- ing a view of the bay and hills on the other fide, which had a very pleafing effect,, Indeed the whole country about the bay is agreeable beyond defcription, and, if properly cultivated, would be a moft fertile fpot. The hills are cloathed with beautiiul flowering ihrubs, in- termixed with a number of tall, ftately palms, which perfume the air, making it perfectly odoriferous. Mr. Banks and the doctor, among other trees that yielded a fine tranfparent gum, difcovered the cabbage-tree, the produce whereof when boiled, was very good. We met with various kinds of edible herbage in great abundance, and many trees that produced fruit fit to eat. The plant from which the cloth is made, is a kind of Hemerocallis ; its leaves afford a ftrong glofly flax, equally adapted to cloathing, and making of ropes. Sweet potatoes and plantains are cultivated near the houfes. On our return we met an old man who entertained us with the military exercifes of the natives, which are performed with the Patoo-Patoo and the lance. The former has been already mentioned, and is ufed as a battle-axe: the latter is eighteen or twenty feet in length, made of extreme hard wood, and Sharpened at each end. A ftake was fubftituted fora fuppofed ene- my. The old warrior firft attacked him with his lance, advancing with a moft furious afpect. Having pierced him, the patoo-patoo was ufed to demolifh his head, at which he ftruck with a force which would at one blow have fplit any man's fkull; from whence we No. 4. R concluded C O O K *S F I R S T V O Y A G E concluded no quarter was given by thefe people to their foes in time of action. The natives in this part are not very numerous. They are tolerably well fhaped, but lean and tall. Their faces referable thofe of the Europeans. Their nofea are aquiline, their eyes dark coloured, their hair black, which is tied upon the top of their heads, and the mens beards are of a moderate length. Their tataowing is done very curioufly, in various figures, which makes their fkin referable carving; it is confined to the prin- cipal men, the females and fervants uiing only red paint, with which they daub their faces, that otherwile would not be difagreeable. Their cloth is white, glofl'y, and very even; it is worn principally by the men, though it is wrought by the women, who, indeed, are condemned to all drudgery and labour. On the 2 5th we fet up the armourers forge on more for neceflary ufes, and got our wood and water with- out the leaft moleftation from the natives, with whom we exchanged glafs bottles and beads for different forts of fifh. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander went again in fearch of plants. Tupia, who was with them, engaged in a converfation with one of the prices, and they feemed to agree in their opinions upon the fubject of religion, Tupia, in the courfe of this conference, en- quired whether the report of their eating men \vas founded in truth, to which the prieft anfwered, it was, but that they eat none but declared foes, after they were killed in war. This idea fo favage and barbie rous, proved, however, that they carried their refent- ment even beyond death. On the 1 7th, Capt. Cook and Dr. Solander went to infpect the bay, when the doctor was not a little fur- prifed to find the natives in the poffefiion of a boy's top, which they knew how to fpin by whipping it, and he purchafed it out of curiofity. Mr. Banks was du- ring this time employed in attaining the fummit of a fleep hill, that had previoufly engaged their attention, and near it he found many inhabited houfes. There were two rows of poles about fourteen or fifteen feet high, ROUND THE WORLD. high, covered over with fticks, which made an avenue of about five feet in width, extending near a hundred yards down the hill, in an irregular line: the intent cf this erection was not difcovered. When the gentlemen met at the watering place, the Indians fang their war fong, which was a ftrange medley of fhouting, fighing, and grimace, at which the women affifted* The next day Capt. Cook and other gentlemen went upon the ifland at the entrance of the bay, and met with a canoe that was 67 feet in length, fix in breadth, and four in height ; her bottom, which was (harp, confided of three trunks of trees, and the fides and head were cu- riouily carved. We alfo came to a large unfinished houfe. The pofts which fupported it were ornamented with carv- ings, that did not appear to be done upon the fpot, and as the inhabitants feemed to fet great value upon works of this kind, future navigators might find their advan- tage in carrying fuch articles to trade with* Though the pofts of this houfe were judged to be brought here, the people feemed to have a taftefor carving; as their boats, paddles, and tops of walking fticks evince* Their favourite figure is a volute or fpiral, which is fometimes fingle, double, and triple, and is done with great exactnefs, though the only mftruments we faw were an axe made of ftone, and a chhTel. Their tafte, however, is extremely whimfical and extravagant* fcarcely ever imitating nature. Their huts are built un- der trees, their form is an oblong fquare : the door low on the fide, and the windows are at the ends ; reeds covered with thatch compofe the walls; the beams of the eaves, which come to the ground, are covered with thatch ; moft of the houfes had been deferted, through fear of the Englifh, upon their landing. There are many beautiful parrots, and great numbers of birds of different kinds, particularly one whofe note refem- bles the European black-bird;, but here is no ground fowl or poultry, nor any quadrupedes, excepts rats and dogs, and thefe were not numerous. The dogs are confidered as delicate food, and their ikins ferve for R 2 ornaments 132 COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ornaments to their apparel. There is a great variety of fiQi in the bay, fhell and cray fifli are very plentiful, fome of the latter weigh near 12 pounds. Sunday, October the 29th, we fet fail from this bay. It is iituate in latitude 38 deg. 22 min. ibuth, four leagues to the north of Gable End Foreland ; there are two high rocks at the entrance of the bay, which form a cove very good for procuring wood and water. There is a high rocky ifland off" the north point of the bay, which affords good anchorage, having a fine fandy bottom, and from feven to thirteen fathom water, and is likewife flickered from all but the north-eaft wind. We obtained nothing here in trade but fome fweet pota- toes, and a little fim. This is a very hilly country, though it prefents the eye with an agreeable verdure, various woods and many fmall plantations. Mr. Banks found a great number of trees in the woods, quite un- known to Europeans, the fire wood reiembled the ma- ple-tree, and produced a gum of whitifli colour -, other trees yielded a gum of a deep yellow green. The only roots were yams and fweet potatoes, though the foil appears very proper for producing every fpecies of vegetables. On Monday the ^oth, failing to the northward, we fell in with a imall ifland about a mile diilant from the north-eaft point of the main, and this being the moft eaftern part of it, the captain named it Eaft Cape, and the ifland Eaft Ifland ; it was but fmall, and appeared barren. The cape is in latitude 37 deg. 42 min. go fee. fouth. There are many fmall bays from Tolaga Bay to Eaft Cape. Having doubled the cape, many villages prefented themfelves to view, and the adja- cent land appeared cultivated. In the evening of the 3oth, Lieutenant Hicks difcovered a bay to which his name was given. Next morning, about nine, feveral canoes came off from more with a number of armed men, who appeared to have hoftile intentions. Before tftefe had reached the fhip, another canoe, larger than any that had yet been feen, full of armed Indians, came off, and made towards the Endeavour with great ex- pedition. ROUND THE WORLD. 133 pedition. The captain now judging it expedient to prevent, if pofiible, their attacking him, ordered a gun to be fired over their heads. This not producing the defired effecl:, another gun was fired with ball, which threw them into fuch confternation that th^y immediately returned much fafter than they came. This precipitate retreat, induced the captain to give the cape, off which it happened, the name of Cape Runaway; it lies in latitude 37deg. 32 min.fouth, and longitude 181 deg. 48 min. weft. On the gift, we found that the land, which during this day's run appeared like an ifland, was one, and we named the fame White Ifland. On the ift of November, at day-break, not lefs than between 40 and 50 canoes were feen, feveral of which came off as before, threatening to attack the Engliih. 0ne of their chiefs flourifhed his pike, and made fe- veral harangues, feeming to bid defiance to thofe on board the veffel. At laft, after repeated invitations, they came clofe along-fide ; but inftead of mewing a difpofition to trade, the haranguing chief uttered a fentence, and took up a ftone which he threw againft theihip, and immediately after theyfeized their arms. They were informed by Tupia, of the dreadful confe- quences of commencing hoftilities; but this admoni- tion they feemed little to regard. A piece of cloth, however, happening to attract their eyes, they began to be more mild and reafonable. A quantity of cray filh, mufcles, and conger eels was now purchafed. No fraud was attempted by this company of Indians, but fome others that came after them, took goods from the veffel without making proper returns. As one of them that had rendered himfelf remarkable for thefe prac- tices, and feemed proud of his fkill in them, was put- ting off with his canoe, a mufquet was fired over his head, which circumftance produced good order for the prefent. Yet when thefe favages began to traffic with the failors, they renewed their frauds ; and one of them was bold enough to feize fome linen that was hung to dry, and run away with it. In order to induce him to return, 134 COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE return, a mufquet was firft fired over his head, but this not anfwering the end, he was Ihot in the back \vith feall mot, yet he, itill perfevered in his defign. This being perceived by Jus countrymen, they dropped a-ftern, and fet up the tong of defiance. In confe- quence of their behaviour, though they made no pre* parations to attack the veflel, the captain gave orders to fire a four pounder, which palled over them ; but its effecl on the water terrified them fo much, that they retreated with precipitation to the more. In the afternoon, about two o'clock, we difcovered a pretty high ifland to the weftvvard. Some ,time after perceiving other rocks and iflands in the fame quarter, but not being able to weather them before night came on, we bore up between them and the main land. In the evening a double canoe, built after the fame fafhion as thofe of Otaheite, came up, when Tupia entered into a friendly convention with the Indians, and was told that the ifland, clofe to which we lay, was called Mowtohora. It was but a few miles from the main land, pretty high, but of no great extent. We ima- gined the difpofition of the Indians, from their talk with Tupia, to be in our favour, but, when it was dark they began their ufual falute, by pouring a voiley of ftones into the iliip and then retreated. South-welt by weft of this ifland, upon the main land, and in the center of a large plain, is a high circular mountain, to which we gave the name of Mount Edgecombe. It is very confpicuous, and is feated in latitude 37 deg. 59 miu. longitude 193 dg. 7 min. The next morning, being the 2nd, a number of ca- noes appeared, and one, which proved to be the fame that had pelted us the night before, came up. After converfing with Tupia, and behaving peaceably about an hour, they complimented us with another volley of flones. We returned the falute by firing a mulket, which made them inftantly take to their paddles. Be- tween ten and eleven we failed between a low flat ifland and the main land. The laft appeared to be of a mo* derate height, but level, full of plantations and vil- lages. ROUND TH5 WORLD. 135 lages. The villages were upon the high land next the lea, more extenfive than any we hadfeen, and fur- rounded by a ditch, and a bank with rails on the top of it. There were fome inclofures> that refembled forts, and the whole had the appearance of places calculated for defence. On the 3d, we paffed the night near a fmall ifland, which Capt. Cook named the Mayor ; and at feven in the morning, diftant from hence about fix leagues, we difcovered a clufter of fmall iilands, which we called the Court of Aldermen. Thefe were twelve miles from the main, between which were other fmall iflands, moftly barren, but very high. The afpecl of the main land was now much changed, the foil appearing to be barren, and the country very thinly inhabited. The chief who governed the diftricl from Cape Turnagain to this coaft was named Teratu. In the afternoon three canoes, built differently from thofe already men- tioned, came along-fid? the Endeavour. They were formed of the trunks of whole trees, rendered hollow by burning ; but they were not carved, nor in any man- ner ornamented. We now failed towards an inlet that had been difcovered, and having anchored in feven fa- thom water, the ; fhip was foon furrounded by a num- ber of canoes, and the people on board them did not feem difpofed for fome time to commit any acl:s of hof- tility. A bird being fhot by one of our crew, fome In- dians, without fhewing any furprife brought it on board , and for their civility the captain gave them a piece of cloth. But this favour operated upon them in a different manner than was expected ; for when it was dark, they begun a fong of defiance, and endea- voured to carry off the buoy of the anchor ; and not- withftanding fome mufquets were fired at them, they feemed rather to be irritated than frightened, They even threatened to return the next morning ; but on Sunday night eleven of them were to be feen, and thefe retired when they found the {hip's crew were upon their guard. On the 4th at day break no lefs than twelve c inoes 3 made 136 COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE made their appearance, containing near two hundred men, armed with fpears, lances, and Hones, who feemed determined to attack the fhip, and would have board- ed her, had they known on what quarter they could beft have made their attack. While they were padd- ling round her, which kept the crew upon the watch in the rain, Tupia, at the requeft of the captain, ufed a number of diffuafive arguments, to prevent their carrying their apparent deiigns into execution ; but we could not pacify them by the fire of our mufquets : they then laid alide their hoftile intentions, and began to trade ; yet they could not refrain from their fraudu- lent practices ; for after they had fairly bartered two of their weapons, they would not deliver up a third, for which they had received cloth, and only laughed at thofe who demanded an equivalent. The offender was wounded with fmall fhot; but his countrymen took not the leaf! notice of him, and continued to trade without any difcompofure. When another canoe was ftruck for their mal-praclices, the natives behaved in the fame manner; but if a round was fired over or near them, they all paddled away. Thus we found, that theft and chicane, were as prevalent among the inha- bitants of New Zealand, as thofe of Otaheite. In fearching for an anchoring place, the captain faw a fortified village upon a high point, and having fixed upon a proper fpot, he returned ; upon which we weighed, run in nearer to the more, and caft anchor upon a fandy bottom, in four fathom and a half water. The fouth point of the bay bore due eaft, diftant one mile, and a river which the boats can enter at low wa* ter fouth fouth-eaft, diftant a mile and an half. On the 5th, in the morning, the Indians came off to the fhip again, who behaved much better than they had done the preceding day. An old man in particular named Tojava, teftified his prudence and honefty, to whom and a friend with him, the captain prefented fome narls, and two pieces of Englifh cloth. Tojava informed us, that they were often vifited by free-boot ers from the north, who ftripped them of all they could lay their ROUND THE WORLD* their hands on, and at times made captives of* their Cv'ives and children ; and that being ignorant who the Englifh were upon their firft arrival, the natives had been much alarmed, but were now fatisfied of their good intentions. He added, that for their fecurity againft thofe plunderers, their houfes were built conti- guous to the tops of- the rocks, where they could bet- ter defend themfelves. Probably their poverty and mi- fery may be afcribed to the ravages of thofe who fre- quently ftript them of every neceflary of life. Having difpatched the long-boat and pinnace into the bay to haul and dredge for fifh, but with little fuccefs, the In- dians on the banks teftified their friendship by every pofllble means. They brought us great quantities of iifli dreffed and dried, which though indifferent, we purchafed, that trade might not be difcouraged. They alfo fupplied us with wood and good water. While \\ r e were out with our guns, the people who ftaid by the boats faw two of the natives fight. The battle was begun with their lances; but fome old men taking thefe away, they were obliged to decide the quarrel, like Englimmen, with their fifts. For fome time they boxed with great vigour and perfeverance, but at length they all retired behind a little hill, fo that our people were prevented from feeing the iluie of the combat. At this time the Endeavour being very foul, fhe was heeled, and her bottom fcrubbed in the bay. On the 8th, we were vifited by feveral canoes, in one of which was Tojava, who, defcrying two canoes, haftened back again to the more, apprehending they were freebooters ; but finding his miftake, he foon re- turned ; and the Indians fupplied us with as much ex- cellent fifh as ferved the whole fhip's company. This day a variety of plants were collected by Mr. Banks and Doctor Solander, who had never obfervcd any of the kind before. They ft aid on fhore till near dark, when they obferved how the natives difpofed of themfelves during the night. They had no flicker but a few Ihrubs. The men lay neareft the fea in a femicircular form ; and the women and children mod di ft ant from it. They had no king whofe fovereignty they acknov/- No. . S lcd?ed, 138 COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ledged, a circumftance not to be paralleled on any other parts of the coaft. Early in the morning of the pth the Indians brought in their canoes a prodigious quantity of mackarel, of which one fort were exactly the fame with thofe caught in England. They fold them at a low rate, and they were not lefs welcome to us on that account. Thefe canoes were fucceeded by others equally loaded with the fame fort of ftfli ; and the cargoes purchafed were ib great, that every one of the ihip's company who could get fait, cured as many as would ferve him for a month's provision. The Indians frequently refort to the bay in parties to gather mell-fifh, of which it af- fords an incredible plenty. Indeed wherever we went, whether on the hills, or through the vales, in the woods or on the plains, we faw many waggon loads of {hells in heaps, fome of which appeared frefh, others very- old. This being a very clear day, Mr. Green, the aftro- noiner, landed with other gentlemen to obferve the trahfit of Mercury. The obfervation of the ingrefs ^ as made by Mr. Green alone, and Capt. Cook took the fun's altitude to afcertain the time. While the ob- fervation was making, a canoe, with various commo- dities on board, came along-fide the ihip ; and Mr. Gore, the officer who had then the command, being delirous of encouraging them to traiKc, produced a piece of Otaheitean cloth, of more value than any they had yet fecn, which was immediately feizecl by one of the Indians, who obftinately refufed either to return it, or give any thing in exchange : he paid dearly however for his temerity, being mot dead upon the ibot. The death of this young Indian alarmed all the reil ; they fled with great precipitancy, and, for the prefent, could not be induced to renew their traffic with the Englifh. But when the Indians onfhore had heard the particulars related by Tojava, who greatly condemned the conduct of the cleceafed, theyfeemed to think that he had me- rited his fate. His name was Otirreeonooe. This tranf- aclion happened, as has been mentioned, whilft the observation was making of the transit of Mercury, when the ROUND THE WORLD. the weather was fo favourable, that the whole tranfit was viewed, without a cloud intervening. The tranfit commenced feven hours, 20 min. 58 fee. By Mr. Green's obfervation the internal contacl was at 1 2 hours, eight mm. $7 ice. the external at 12 hours nine min. 55 fee. the latitude 30 deg. 48 min. five fee. In con- fequence of this obfervation having been made here, this bay was called Mercury Bay. On the ioth,Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and the captain went in boats to infpcct a large river that runs into the bay. They found it broader fome miles within than at the mouth, and interfered into a number of ftreams, by feveral fmall iflands, which were covered with trees. On the eaft fide of the river, the gentlemen mot fomc lhags, which proved very good eating. The more abounded with fifh of various kinds, fuch as cockles, clams, and oyfters ; and here were alfo ducks, mags, and curlieus, with other wild fowl in great plenty. At the mouth of the river there was good anchorage in five fathom water. The gentlemen were received with great hofpitality by the inhabitants of a little village on the eaft fide of the river. There are there the remains of a fort called Eppah, on a peninfula that projects into the river, and it was calculated for defending a fmall num- ber againft a greater force. From the remains, it never- thelefs feemed to have been taken and partly deftroyed. The Indians fup before fun-fet, when they eat fifh and birds baked or roafled ; they roaft them upon a flick, ftuck in the ground near the fire, and bake them in the manner the dog was baked, which the gentlemen eat at George's liland. A female mourner was prefent at one of their fuppers ; me was feated upon the ground j and wept incelTantly, at the fame time repeating forne fentences in a doleful manner, but which Tupia could not explain ; at the termination of each period me cut herfelf with a fhell upon her breaft, her hands, or, her face ; notwithftanding this bloody fpectacle greatly af- fected the gentlemen prefent, yet all the Indians who fat by her, except one, were quite unmoved. The gen- tlemen faw fome, who from the depth of their fears S 2 muft, 140 COOK'S FIRST "VOYAGE muft, upon thefe occafions, have wounded themfelves more violently. Great plenty of oyflers were procured from a bed which had been difcovered, and they proved exceed- ingly good. Next day the Ihip was viiited by two canoes, with unknown Indians ; after fome invitation they came on board, and they all trafficked without any fraud. Two fortified villages being deferted, the Captain, with Mr. Bank, and Dr. Solander, went to examine them. The fmalleft was romantically fituatcd upon a rock, which was arched; this village did not confift of above five orlixhoufes, fenced round. There was but one path, which was very narrow, that con- dueled to it. The gentlemen were invited by the in- habitants to pay them a vifit, but not having time to fpare, took another route, after having made prefents to the females. A body of men, women, and children now approached the gentlemen ; thefe proved to be the in- habitants of another town, which they propofed vifiting. They gave many teftimonies of their friendly difpofi- tions ; among others they uttered the word Heromai, which according to Tupia's interpretation, implied peace, and appeared much fatisfied, when informed the gentlemen intended vifiting their habitations. Their town was named Wharretouwa. It is feated on a point of land over the fea, on the north iide of the bay, and was pailed round, and defended by a double ditch, Within the ditch a ftage is erected for defend- ing tiie place in cafe of an attack ; near this ftage, quantities of darts and ftones are depofited that they may always be in readineis to repel the aflailants'. There is another ftage to command the path that leads to the town; and there were fome out-works. The place feerned calculated to hold out a confiderable time againft an enemy armed with no other weapons than thofe of the Indians. It appeared however deficient in water for holding out. a fiege. Inftead of bread, they had fern root, which was here in great plenty, with dried fiili. Very little of the land was cultivated, and iweet potatoes and yams were the only vegetables to be found, TJierc are t\vp roclis near the fort of this fortification, ROUND THE WORLD. 141 fortification, both feparatcd from the main land^ they are very fmall, neverthelefs they are not without dwel- ling-houfes and little fortifications. In their engage- ments, thefe Indians throw ftones with their hands, being deftitute of a fling, and thofe and lances are their only mifUble weapons; they have, befides the patoo- patoo, already defcribed, a ftaff about five feet in length and another ihorter. We failed from this bay, after having taken poffeffion of it in the name of the king of Great Britain, on the I5th of November, Tojava, who viiited us in his canoe juft before our departure, faid, he mould prepare to retire to his fort as foon as the Englifh were gone, as the relations of Otirreonooe had threatened to take his life, as a forfeit for that of the deceafed, Tojava being judged partial in this affair to the Englifh. Towards the north-weft, a number of iflands of dif- ferent fizes appeared, which were named Mercury Iflands; Mercury Bay lies in latitude 36 deg. 47 min. fouth; longitude 184 deg. 4 min. weft, and has a fmall entrance at its mouth. On account of the number of oyfters found in the river, the captain gave it the name of Oyfter River: Mangrove River (which the captain fo called from the great number of thofe trees that grew near it) is the moft fecure place for mipping, being at the head of the bay. The north-weft fide of this bay and river appeared much more fertile than the eaft fide* The inhabitants, though numerous, have no plantations. Their canoes are very indifferently conftrucled, and are not ornamented at all. They lie under continual ap- prehenflons of Terratu, being confidered by him as rebels. Shore iron fand is to be found in plenty on this coaft, which proves that there arc mines of metal up the country, it being brought down from thence by a rivulet. On the 1 8th in the morning, we fteered between the main, and an ifland which feemed very fertile, and as extenfive as Ulietea. Several canoes filled with In- dians, came along-fide here, and the Indians fang their war fong, but the Endeavour's people paying them no Attention, they threw a volley of ftones, and then pad- dled 142 COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE died away ; however they prefently returned their infults. Tupia fpoke to them, making ufe of his old arguments, that inevitable deftruction would enfueif they perlifted ; they anfwered by brandifhing their weapons, intima- ting, that if the Englifh durft come on fhore, they would deflroy them all. Tupia ftill continued in ex- poftulating with them, but to no purpofe : and they ibon gave another volley of ftones ; but upon a muf- quet being fired at one of their boats, they made a pre- cipitate retreat. We caft anchor in 23 fathom water in the evening, and early the next mcrning failed up an inlet. Soon after two canoes came off, and fome of the Indians came on board : they knew T ojava very well, and called Tupia by his name. Having received from us fome prefents, they retired peaceably, and apparently highly gratified. On Monday the 2oth, after having ran five leagues from the place where we had anchored the night be- fore, we came to an anchor in a bay called by the natives Ooahaouragee. Capt. Cook, Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and others fet off in the pinnace to examine the bottom of the bay, and found the inlet end of a river, about nine miles above the fhip. We entered into the fame with the firft of the flood, and before we had proceeded three miles, the water was perfectly frem. Here we faw an Indian town, built upon a frnall dry fand-bank, and entirely furrounded by a deep mud ; the inhabitants of which with much cordiality invited us to land, and gave us a moft friendly reception. We were now fourteen miles up the river, and finding little alteration in the face of the country, we landed on the weft fide to examine the lofty trees which adorned its banks, and were of a kind that we had not feen before. At the entrance of a wood we met with one ninety- eight feet high from the ground, quite ftrait, and nine- teen feet in circumference ; and as we advanced we found others ftill larger. The wood of thele trees is very heavy, not fit for mafts but would make exceeding fine planks. Our carpenter, who was with us, obferv- ed, th.it the timber refembled that of the pitch pine which is lightened by tapping. There were alfo trees of ROUND THE WORLD. 143 of other kinds, all unknown to us, fpecimens of which we brought away. We reimbarked about three o'clock with the firft of the ebb, and Capt. Cook gave to the river the name of the Thames, it having a refemblance to the river of that name in Enghnd. It is not fo deep, but it is as broad as the Thames is at Greenwich, and the tide of flood is as ftrong. On the evening of the 2 1 ft we reached the fhip, all extremely tired, but happy at being on board. On the 22d, early in the morning, we made fail, and kept plying till the flood obliged us once more to come to an anchor. The captain and Dr. Solander went on fliore to the weft, but made no obfervations worth relating. After thefe gentlemen departed, the fliip was furrounded with canoes, which kept Mr. Banks on board, that he might trade with the Indians, who bartered their arms and cloaths for paper, taking no unfair advantages. But though they were in ge- neral honeft in their dealings, one of them took a fancy to a half minute glafs, and being detected in fe- creting the fame, it was refolved to give him a fmatch of the cat-o'nine-tails. The Indians interfered to flop the current of juftice ; but being oppofed they got their arms from their canoes, and fome of the people in them attempted to get on board. Mr. Banks and Tupia now coming upon deck, the Indians applied to Tupia, who informed them of the nature of the of- fender's intended punifhment, and that he had no in- fluence over Mr. Hicks, the commanding officer. They appeared pacified, and the criminal received not only a dozen, but afterwards a good drubbing from an old man, who was thought to be his father. The canoes immediately went off', the Indians faying, they ihould be afraid to return again on board. Tupia, however, brought them back, but they feemed to have loft that confidence which they before repofed in us. Their ftay was Ihort, and after their departure \ve faw them not again, though they had promifed to return with fome fim. On the 2 gel, the weather ftill continuing unfavour- able, and the wind contrary, we kept plying down the river, COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE river, anchoring between the tides ; and at the nortlf weft extremity of the Thames, we palled a point of land which the captain called Point Rodney ; and ano- ther, at the north eaft extremity, when we entered the bay, he named Cape Colville, in honour of Lord Col- ville. Not being able to approach land, we had but a diftant view of the main for a courfe of near thirty miles. Under the name of the river Thames, the cap- tain comprehended the whole bay. Cape Colville is to be diftinguifhed by a high rock, and lies in 36 deg. 26 ir.in. of louth latitude, and 194 deg. 27 min. weft lon- gitude. The Thames runs fouth by eaft from the fou- thern point of the cape. In fome parts it is three leagues over, for about fourteen leagues, after which it becomes narrow. In fome parts of the bay the water is 26 fathoms deep; the depth diminishes gra* dually, and in general the anchorage is good. To fome iflands that fhelter it from the fea Captain Cook gave the name of Barrier Iflands ; they ftretch north-weft and fouth-eaft ten leagues. The country feemed to be thinly inhabited ; the natives are well made, ftrong, and active ; their bodies are painted with red ocre, and their canoes, which are well conftrucled, were orna- mented with carved work. On the 24th, we continued {leering along the more between the iilands and the main ; and in the evening anchored in an open bay, in about fourteen fathom water. Here we caught a large number of fifli of the fcienne, or bream kind, enough to fupply the whole ihip's company with provifion for two days. From our fuccefs Capt. Cook named this place Bream Bay, and the extreme points at the north end of the bay he called Bream Head. Several pointed rocks (land in a range upon the top of it, and ibme fmall iflands which lie before it were called the Hen and Chickens. It is fituated in latitude 35 deg. 46 min. feventeen leagues north-weft of Cape Colville. There is an extent of land, of about thirty miles, between Point Rodney and Bream Head, woody and low. No inhabitants were vi- fible ; but from the fires perceived at night, we con- cluded it was inhabited* I On ROUND THE WORLD* On the 25th, early in the morning, we left the bay $ and continued our courfe flowly to the northward ; at noon our latitude was 36 deg. 36 min.fouth, and we faw fome iflands which we named the Poor Knights, at north- eaft by north, diftant three leagues; the norther- mod land in fight bore N. N. W. we were now at the diftance of two miles from the more, and had twenty-fix fathom water. Upon the iflands were a few towns that appeared fortified, and the land round them feemed well inhabited. On the 26th, towards night, feven large canoes came off to us, with about two hundred men. Some of the Indians came on board, and let us know, that they had an account of our arrival. Thefe were followed by two larger canoes, adorned with carving. The In- dians, after having held a conference, came a-long fide of the veflel. They were armed with various weapons^ and feemed to be of the higher order. Their patoo-pa- toos were made of ftcne and whale-bone, ornamented with dog's hair, and were held in high eflirnation. Their complexion was darker than that of thofe to the fouth, and their faces were flamed with amoco. They were given to .pilfering, of which one of them gave an inilance pretending to barter a piece of talc, wrought into the fhape of an axe, for a piece of cloth ; nor was he difpofed to fulfil his agreement, till we compelled him to do it, by firing a mufquet over his head, which brought him back ten the fhip, and he returned the cloth. At three in the afternoon we paired a remark- able high point of land, bearing weft, and it was called Cape Brett, in honour of Sir Piercy Brett. At the point of this cape is a round high hillock, and north- eaft by north, diftant about a mile, is a curious arched rock, like that which has been already defcribecl. This cape, or at leaft part of it, is called by the natives Mo- tugogo, and lies in 35 deg. lomin. 30 fee. fouth lati- tude, and in 185 deg. 23 min. weft longitude. To the fouth-weft by weft is a bay, in which is many firiail iflands, and the point at the north-weft entrance the captain named Point Pococke. There are many villages on the main as well as on the iflands, which appeared No. 5. T well 146 COOK'S FIRST VOYAGfc well inhabited, and feveral canoes filled with Indians made to the ftiip, and in the courfe of bartering mewed the fame inclination to defraud as their neighbours. Thefe Indians were ftrong and well proportioned ; their hair black, and tied up in a bunch {tuck with feathers i their chiefs had garments made of fine cloth, decorated with dog's fkin ; and they were tataowed like thofe who had laft appeared. On the 27th, at eight in the morning, we found our- felves within a mile of many fmall ifiands, laying clofe under the main, at the diftance of twenty-two miles from Cape Brett. Here we lay about t\vo hours, du- ring which time feveral canoes came off from the iflands, which we called Cavalles, the name of fome fifh which we purchafed of the Indians. Thefe peo- ple were very infolent, ufing many frantic geftures, and pelting us with ftones. Nor did they give over their infults, till fome fmall fhot hit one who had a ftone in his hand. A general terror was now ipread among them, and they all made a veiy precipitate retreat. For feveral days the wind was fo very unfavourable, that the veflel rather loft than gained ground. On the 29th, having weathered Cape Brett, we bore away to leeward, and got into a Urge bay, where we an- chored on the fouth-weit fide of feveral iflands, and fuddenly came into four fathoms and a half water. Upon founding, we found we had got upon a bank, and accordingly weighed and dropped over it, and anchoreti again in ten fathoms and a half, after \vhich we were fin rounded by thirty-three large canoes, con- taining near three hundred Indians ail armed. Some of them were admitted on board, and Captain Cook gave a piece of broad cloth to one of the chiefs, and fome fmall prefents to the other. They traded peace- ably for fome time, being terrified at the fire-arms, with the effects of which they were not unacquainted ; but whilft the captain was at dinner, on a fignal given by one of the chiefs, all the Indians quitted the fhip, and attempted to tow away the buoy ; a mufquet was now fired over them, but it produced no effect ; fmall dot was then fired at them, but it did not reach them. A mufquet ROUND THE WORLD. 147 nwfquet loaded with ball, was therefore ordered to be fired, and Otegoowgoow (fon of one of the chiefs) was wounded'in the thigh by it, which induced them imme- diately to throw the buoy overboard. To complete their confuiion, a round fhot was fired, which reached the more, and as foon as they landed, they ran in fearch of it. If thefe Indians had been under any kind of mi- litary difcipline, they might have proved a much more formidable enemy ; but acting thus, without any plan or regulation, they only expofed themfelves to the an- noyance of the fire-arms, whilft they could not pof- fibly fucceed in any of their defigns. The Captain, Mr. Banks, and Dr. Solander, landed upon the ifland, and the Indians in the canoes foon after came on more. The gentlemen were in a fmall cove, and were prefently furrounded by near 400 armed Indians ; but the cap- tain not fufpecling any hoftile defign on the part of the natives, remained peaceably difpofed. The gentle- men, marching towards them, drew a line, intimating that they were not to pafs it : they did not infringe upon this boundary for fome time; but at length, they fang the fong of defiance, and began to dance, whilft a party attempted to draw the Endeavour's boat on more ; thefe fignals for an attack being immediately followed by the Indians breaking in upon the line, the gentlemen judged it time to defend themfelves, and ac- cordingly the captain fired his mufquet, loaded with fmall mot, which was feconded by Mr. Banks's dif- charging his piece, and two of the men followed his ex- ample. This threw the Indians into confufion,and they retreated, but were rallied again by one of the chiefs, who fhouted and waved his patoo-patoo. The Doctor now pointed his mufquet at this hero, and hit him : this flopped his career, and he. took to flight with the other Indians. They retired to an eminence in a col- letted body, and feemed dubious whether they mould return to the charge. They were now at too great a diftance for a ball to reach them, but thefe operations being obferved from the fhip, me brought her broad- fide to bear, and by firing over them, foon difperfed them. The Indians had in their fkirmifh two of their T 2 people '148 COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE people wounded, but none killed : peace being thus re- itored, the gentlemen began to gather celery and other herbs, but lufpecling that fome of the natives were lurking about with evil deCgns,they repaired to a cave, which was at a fmall diftance. Here they found the chief, who had that day received a prefent from the captain ; he came forth with his wife and brother, and fo'icited their clemency. It appeared, that one of the * -wounded Indians was a brother of this chief, who was under great anxiety left the wound mould prove mortal, "but his grief was in a great degree alleviated, when he was made acquainted with the different effecls of fmall fliot and ball ; he was at the fame time allured, that upon any farther hoftilities being committed, ball would "be uied. This interview terminated very cordially, af- ter fome trifling prefents were made to the chief and his companions. The prudence of the gentlemen can- not be much commended : for had thefe 400 Indians bodly rufhed in upon them at once with their weapons, the mufquetry could have done very little execution ; but fuppofing twenty or thirty of the Indians had been wounded, as it does not appear their pieces were loaded with ball, but only fmall mot, there would have re- mained a iufficent number to have mafTacred them, as it appears they do not give any quarter, and none could have been expected upon this occasion. It is true, when the (hip brought herbroadfide to bear, me might have made invat havock amon < i . this 158 COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE this man did not pay the leaft attention to the people in the pinnace, but continued to purfue his employ- meat even when we came along-fide of him, without once looking at us. Some of the Endeavour's people being on more, found three human hip bones, cloie to an oven ; thefe were brought on board, as well as the hair of a man's head, which was found in a tree. The next day a forge was fet up to repair the iron-work ; and fome Indians vifited the fliip with plenty of fifh which they bartered very fairly for nails. On the 2oth, in the morning, Mr. Banks purchafed of the old Indian a man's head, which hefeemed very unwilling to part with ; the ikull had been fradured by a blow, and the brains were extracted, and like the others, it was preferved from putrefaction. From the care with which they kept thefe Ikulls, and the reluct- ance with which they bartered any, it was imagined they were confidered as trophies of war, and teilimo- nials-of their valour. In this day's excurfion, we did not meet with a lingle native ; the ground on every fide was quite uncultivated ; but we difcovered a very good harbour. The fucceeding day the fhip's company were allowed to go on fliore for their amufement, and the gentlemen employed themfelves in fifhing, in which they were very fuccefsful Some of the company in their excurfion met with fortifications that had not the advantage of an elevated fituation, but were furround- ed by two or three wide ditches, with a draw- bridge, iuch as, though fimple in its flructure, was capable of anfwering every purpoie againft the arms of the na- ives. Within thefe ditches is a fence, made with ftakes, fixed in the earth. A decifive conqu eft or vic- tory over the beiieged, occafions an entire depopula- tion of that cliftrift, as the vanquifhed, not only thofe who are killed, but the prifoners like wife are devoured by the victors. The 22d was employed by Mr. Banks and Dr. So- lander, in collecting of plants, whilft Capt. Cook made fome obfervations on the main land on the fouth.- eaft fide of the inlet, which confilled of a chain of high hills, ,and formed p^rt of the fouth-weft fide of the ROUND THE WORLD. '5* the (Ireight ; the oppofite fide extended far to the eaft. He alfo difcovered a village, and many houfes that had been deferted, and another village that appeared to be inhabited. There were many fmall iilands round the coaft, that feemed intirely barren, and what few inha- bitants were upon them lived principally upon fifli. On the 24th, we vifited a hippah, which was fituated on a very high rock, hollow underneath, forming a fine natural arch, one fide of which joined to the land, and the other rofe out of the fea. The inhabitants re- ceived us with great civility, and very readily {hewed us every thing that was curious. This hippah was partly furrounded with palifadoes, and it had a fighting ftage, like that already defcribed. Here we met with a crofs reiembling a crucifix, which was erected as a monu- ment for a deceafed perfon j but could not learn how his body was difpofed of. From a converfation that Tupia had with thefe people, a difcovery was made that an officer being in a boat near this village, and iome canoes coming off, made him imagine they had hoftile deiigns, and he fired upon them with ball, which made them retire with much precipitation, but they could not effect their retreat, before one of them was wounded. What made this ram action the moro to be lamented was, that the Indians gave afterwards every pofllble ailurance that their intentions upon this occafioa were entirely friendly. On the 25th, the Captain, Mr. Banks, and Dr. So- lander, went on more to (hoot, when they met with a numerous family, who were among the creeks catching Sfh : they behaved very civil, and received fome tri- fling preients from the gentlemen, who were loaded by way of return with the kifles and embraces of both, fexes, young and old. The next day, being the 26th, they made another excnrfion in the boat, in order to take a view of the ftreight, that paffes between the eaftern and wefternr feas. To this end they attained^ the fumfnit of a hill, but it being hazy in the horiibn, they could fee but to a fmall diftancc to the eaft ; how- ever, it was rclolved to explore the pafTage in the {hip when they Ihould put to fea. Before their departure from CdOK-'S FIRST VOYAGfe from this hill, they erected a pyramid with ftones, and left fome mufket balls, fmall mot and beads, that were likely to Hand the teft of time, and would be memo- rials, that this place had been vifited by Europeans. On our return, having defcended the hill, we made a hearty meal of the fhaggs. and iifh, procured by our guns and lines ; and which were drefled by the boat's crew in the place we had appointed. Here we were re- fpectfully received by another Indian family, who added to their civilities ftrong expreflions of kindnefs and pleafure. They mewed us where to get water, with every other office as was in their power. From hence we vifited another hippah, feated on a rock al- irtoft inacceflible : it confided of about one hundred houfes and a fighting ftage. We made the friendly in- habitants fome fmall prefents of paper, beads, and nails, and they in return furnifhed us with dried fifh. On the 27th and 28th our company were engaged in making neceflary repairs, catching fifh, and getting the Endeavour ready to continue her voyage. On Monday the 29th, we were vifited by our old friend Topoa in company with other Indians, frdm whom we heard, that the man who had received a wound near the hippah, was dead ; but this report proved afterwards groundlefs j and we found that To- poa's difcourfes were not always to be taken literally. During the time the bark was preparing for fea, Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander often went on fhore ; but their .walks were circumfcribed by the luxuriant climbers' which filled up the fpace between the trees, and ren- dered the woods impaffable. Capt. Cook alfo made feveral obfervations on thecoaft to the north-weft, and perceived many iflands, forming bays, in which there appeared to be good anchorage for {hipping-. He alfo created another pyramid of ftones, in which he put fome bullets, &c. as before, with the addition of a piece of our filver coin, and placed part of an old pendant on the top, to diftinguifn it. Returning to the fliip he met with many of the natives, of whom lie jHirchafed a fmall quantity of fifli. On Tuefday, the aoth/fomc of our people, who 2 were ROUND THE WORLD. were fcnt out early in the morning to gather celery, met with about twenty Indians, among whom were five or fix women, whofe huibands had lately been made captives. They fat down upon the ground together, and cut many parts of their bodies in a moft mocking man- lier, with (hells, and fharp pieces of talc orjafper,in tefti- mony of their exceffive grief. But what made the horrid fpeclacle more terrible, was, that the male Indians who were with them, paid not the leaft attention to it, but with the greateft unconcern imaginable, employed them- felves in repairing their huts. This day the ccrpenter having prepared two pofts, they were fet up as memo- rials, being infcribed with the elate of the year, the month, and the (hip's name. One of them we erefted at the watering place, with the union-flag hoifted upon the top ; and the other in the ifland that lies neareft the fea, called by the natives Motuara ; and the inhabitants being informed, that thofe pofts were fet up to acquaint other adventurers that the Endeavour had touched at this place, they promifed never td de- ftroy them. Capt. Cook then gave fomething to every one prefent, and to Topoa our old friend, he prefented a lilver three-pence, dated 1736, and fome fpike nails which had the king's broad arrow cut deep upon them. After which he honoured this inlet with the name of Queen Charlotte's Sound ; and at the fame time ook pofTefiion of it in the name and for the ufe of his pre- fent majefty. The whole of this day's bufinefs con- cluded with drinking a bottle of wine to the queen's health. The bottle was given to the old man, who received the prefent with ftrong figns of joy. We rnuft not omit here to obferve, that Topoa being quef- tioned concerning a paflage into the eaftern-fca, an- fwered, that there was certainly fuch a paffage. He alfo (aid, that the land to the fouth-weft of the itreight, where we then were, confrfted of two whcnnuas or iflands, named Tovy Poenamoo, which (ignifies " the water of green talc ;" which might probably be the name of a place where the Indians got their green talc, or (lone, of which they make their orna- ments and cutting tools. He alfo told us, there was No. 5. X a third COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE a third whennua, eaftward of the ftreight, called Ea- heinomauwee, of confiderable extent ; the circumnavi- gation of which would take up many moons: he added, that the land on the borders of the ftreight, contiguous to this inlet, was called TieraWitte. Having procured this intelligence, and concluded the ceremonies at fixing 1 up the monumental memorial, we returned to the fhip. The old man attended us in his canoe, and returned home after dinner. Wednefday the gift, having taken in our wood and water, we difpatched one party to make brooms, and another to catch fifh. Toward the clofe of the evening we had a ftrong gaie from the north-weft, with fuch heavy mowers, that our fweet little \varblers on more fufpended their wild notes, with which till now they had conftnntiy ferenaded us during the night, affording us a plcafure not to be expreffed, and the lofs of which we could not at this time refrain from regretting. On the ift of February the gale increaied to aftorm, with heavy gulls from the main land, which obliged us to let go another anchor. Towards night they became more moderate, but the rain poured down with im- petuolity, that the brook at our watering place over- flowed its banks, and carried away to our lofs ten calks full of water. On Saturday the 3d, we went over to the hippah on the eaft-fide of Charlotte's Sound, and procured a confiderable quantity of fifh. The people here con- firmed all thatTopoa had told us refpefting the ftreight, and the unknown country. At noon when we took leave of them, fome fhewed figns of forrow, others of joy that xv e were going. When returning to the fhip fome wf our company made an excurfion alons^ the more northward, to traffic for a further fupply of fifh, but without fuccefs. Sunday the 4th, Mr. Banks and Dr. Sounder were engaged in collecting {hells, and dif- fered t kinds of feeds. m On the 5th we got under fail, but the wind foon fall- ing, we came again to anchor a little above Motuara. i opoa here paid us a viiit to bid us farewell. Being tjueihoned whether he had ever heard, that fuch a vei- iel ROUND THE WORLD. felas ours had evervifited the country, he replied in the negative ; but faid, there was a tradition of a fmall vellel having come from Ulimora, a diftant country in the north, in which were, only four men, who on their landing, were all put to death. The people, of the Bay of lilands and Tupia had fome confufed tra- ditionary notions about Ulimora, but from their ac- counts we could draw no certain conciufion. This day Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander went again on more iiv fearch of natural curiolities, and by accident met with a very amiable Indian family, among whom was a widow, arid a pretty youth about ten years of age. The woman mourned for her hufband, according to the cuftom of the country, with tears of blood , and the child, by the death of his father, was the proprietor of the land where we had cut our wood. The mother and fon were fitting upon matts, the reft of the family of both fexes, about feveriteen in number, fac round them. They behaved with the utmoft hofpitality and courtefy, and endeavoured to prevail with us to ftay all night ; but expecting the ftiip to fail, we could not accept of their prelling invitation. This family feem- cd the moft intelligent of any Indians we had hitherto coverfed with, which made us regret our late ac- quaintance with them ; for had we fallen into their company before, we mould probably have gained more information from them in one day, than we had been able to acquire during our whole ftay upon the coaft. Monday the 6th, in the morning the Endeavour failed out of the bay, which, from the favage cullom of eating human flefli, we called Cannibal Bay. We bent our courfe to an opening in the eaft ; and when in the mouth of the ftreight were becalmed in latitude 410 fouth, and 1 84 cleg. ^ 5 min. weft longitude. The two points that form the entrance we called Cape Koamaro, and Point jackfon. The land forming the harbour or covein which we lay is called by the Indians Totarranue ; the harbour itfelf, named by the captain Ship Cove, is very convenient and fafe. It is fitinted on the weft- fide of the cove, and is the fouthermoft of the three coves within the illand of Motuara, between which X 2 and Cook's FIRST VOYAGE and the ifland of Hamote, or between Motuara of weftern-fhore is the entrance. In the laft of thefe inlets are two ledges of rocks, three fa thorn under water, which may eafily be known by the fea- weed that grows upon them. Attention muft alfo be paid to the tides, \vhich, when there is little wind, flow about nine or ten o'clock at the full and change of the moon, and rife and fall about feven feet and a half, palling through the flreight from the fouth-eaft. The land about this found, which we faw at the diftance of twenty leagues, confifts entirely of high hills, and deep valleys, well ftored with a variety of excellent timber, fit for all purpofes except mails, for which it is two hard and heavy. On the Ihore we found plenty of fhags, and a few other fpecies of wild fowl, that are very acceptable food to thofe who have lived long upon fait provifions. The number of inhabitants is not greater than four hundred, who are fcattered along the coaft, and upon any appearance of danger retire to their Hippahs or forts, in which fitua- tion we found them. They are poor, and their canoes without ornaments. The traffic we had with them was wholly for fifli ; but they had fome knowledge of iron,, which the natives of other parts had not. On our ar- rival they were much pleafed with our paper; but when they knew it would befpoiled by the wet, they would not have it. Englifh broad-cloth, and red Kerfey they highly efteemed. Leaving the found we ftood over to the eaftward, and were carried by the rapidity of the current very clofe to one of the two iflands that lieofFCape Koamaroo, at the entrance of Queen Charlotte's Sound. At this time we were every moment in danger of being darned, to pieces againft the rocks, but after having veered out 1 50 fathoms of cable, the fhip was brought up, when the rocks were not more than two cables length from us. Thus we remained, being obliged to wait for the tide's ebbing, which did .not take place till after mid- night. On the yth, at eight o'clock in the morning we weighed anchor, and a frefli breeze with a tide of ebb hurried us through the {freight with great fwiftnefs. The R0UND THE WORLD. 165 The narroweft part of this ftraight lies between Cape Tierrawitte and Cape Koamaroo, the diftance between which we judged to be five leagues. The length of the ftraight we could not determine. In paffing it, we think it fafeft to keep to the north-eaft fhore, for on this fide we faw nothing to fear. Cape Tierrawitte lies in 41 deg. 44min. of fouth latitude, and 183 deg. 45 min. of weft longitude. And Cape Koamaroo is 41 deg. 34 min. fouth, and in 1 1 3 deg. 30 min. weft longitude. About nine leagues from the former cape, and under the fame more north, is a high ifland, which the captain called Entry Ifle. We were now facing a deep bay which we called Cloudy Bay. Some of our gentlemen doubting whether Eahienomauwee was an ifUnd, we fleered fouth-eaft, in order to clear up this doubt ; but the wind mifting we flood eaftward, and (leered north- caft by eaft all night. The next morning they were off Cape Pallifer, and found that the land ftretched away to the north-eaftward of Cape Turnagain. In the afternoon, three canoes came off, having ieveral Indians on board. Thefe made a good appearance, and were ornamented like thofe on the northern coaft. There was no difficulty in perfuading them to come on board, where they demeaned them (elves very civilly, and a mutual exchange of prcfents took place. As they afked for nails it was concluded that they heard of the Eng- lifli, by means of the inhabitants of fome of the other places at which we had touched. Their drefs re- fembled that of the natives of Hudfon's Bay. One old man was tataowed in a very particular manner, ^ie had likewife a red ftreak acrofs his nofe ; and his hair and beard were- remarkable for their whitenefs. The upper garment that he wore was made of flax, and had a wrought border : under this was a fort of petticoat of a cloth called Aooree Wao.w. Teeth aud green ftoncs decorated his ears : he fpoke in a foft and low key, and it was concluded, from his deportment, that he was a perfon of diftinguifhed rank among his countrymen, and thefe people withdrew greatly fatisfied with the prefcnts that they had received. On the 9th, in the morning, we difcovered that Kahienomauwce 166 COOL'S FIRST VOYAGE Eahienomauwee was really an ifland. About fixty Indians in four double canoes came within a ftone's throw of the fhip, on the I4th of February. As they furveyed her with furprize, Tupia endeavoured to per- fuade them to come nearer, but this they could not be prevailed on to do. On this account the ifland was de- nominated the Ifland of Lookers-on. Five leagues diftant from the coaft of Tovy Poenamoo, we faw an ifland which Xvas called after Mr. Banks's name ; a few Indians appeared on it, and in one place they dif- covered a fmoke, fo that it was plain the place was in- habited. Mr. Banks going out in his boat for the pur- pofe of fliooting, killed fome of the Port Egmont hens, which were like thofe found on the ifle of Fare, and the firft that they had feen upon this coaft. A point of land was obferved on Sunday the 25th, in latitude 45 deg. 35 min. fouth, to which Capt. Cook gave the name of Cape Saunders, in honour of Admiral Saun- ders. We kept off from the more, which appeared to be interfperfed with trees, and covered with green hills, but no inhabitants were difcovered. On the 4th of March, feveral whales and feals were feen ; and on the 9th we faw a ledge of rocks, and foon after another ledge at three leagues diftance from the more, which we palled in the night to the northward, and at day -break obferved the others under our bows, \vhich was a fortunate efcape; and in confideration of their having been fo nearly caught among thefe, they were denominated the Traps. We called the fouthern- mo(t point of land, the South Cape, and found it to be the fouthern extremity of the whole coaft. Pro- ceeding northward, the next day we fell in with a bar- ren rock about fifteen miles from the main land, which was very high, and appeared to be about a mile in circumference ; and this was named Solander's Ifland. On the 1 3th, we difcovered a bay containing feveral iflands, where \ve concluded if there was depth of water, Clipping might find fhelter from all winds. Dufky Bay was the appellation given to it by the captain, and Sve high peaked rocks, for which it was remarkable, caufed ROUND THE WORLD* caufed the point to be called Five Fingers. The wef- termoft point of land upon the whole coaft, to the fouthward of Dufky Bay, we called Weft Cape. The next day we paffed a fmall narrow opening, where there feemed to be a good harbour formed by an ifland, the land behind which exhibited a profpect of moun tains covered with fnow. On the 1 6th, we paffed a point which confifted of high red cliffs, and received the name of Cafcade Point, on account of feveral fmall ftreams which fell down it. In the morning of the i8th the valleys were obferved covered with fnow as well as the mountains, which feemed to have fallen the night before, when we had rain at fea. Thus we paffed the whole north- weft coaft of Tovy Poenamoo, which had nothing worth our ob- fervation but a ridge of naked and barren rocks covered with fnow, fome of which we conjectured might pro- bably Inve remained there ever iince the creation. As far as the eye could reach, the profpe&s were in general wild, craggy, and defolate; fcarcely anything but rocks to be feen, the moft of which Dr. Hawkefworth def- cribes as having nothing but a kind of hollows, and dreadful fiffures inftead of valleys between them. From, this uncomfortable country we determined to depart, having failed round the whole country by the 2yth of this month. Capt. Cook therefore went on more in the long-boat, and having found a place proper for mooring the fhip, and a good watering place, the crew 1 began to fill their cafks, while the carpenter was em- ployed in cutting wood. The captain, Mr. Banks, and Dr. Solander, went in the pinnace to examine the bay, and the neighbouring country. Landing there they found feveral plants of a fpecies which was before un- known to them ; no inhabitants appeared ; but they iliw feveral huts which feemed to have been deferted a long time before : all the wood and water being taken on board, the veffel was ready to fail by the time that they returned in the evening, and it was now rcfolved .it a council of war to fteer for the coaft of New Hol- land, in the couiie of their return by the way of the Kail-Indies. i On COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE On the sift, we took our departure from an eaftern point of land, to which we gave the name of Cape Farewel, calling the bay out of which we failed, Admi- ralty Bay ; and two capes, Cape Stephens, and Cape Jackfon, (the names of the two Secretaries of the Admi- ralty board.) We called a bay between the ifland and Cape Farewell, Blind Bay, which was fuppolecl to ha ye teen the* lame that was called Murderers Bay, by Taf- jnan, the firft difcoverer of New Zealand, but though he named it Staten Ifland, wiming to take pofleflion of it for the States General, yet being attacked here by the Indians he never went on more to effect his purpofe. This coaft, now more accurately examined, is discovered to confift of two iflands, which were before thought to be a part of the fouthern continent fo much fought after. They are fituated between the 34th and 48th deg. of fouth latitude, and between 1 8 1 deg. and 1 94 deg. weft longitude. The northern ifland is called Eahienomau- w ec, and the fouthern is named Tovy Poenamoo by the natives. The former, though mountainous in fome places, is ftored with wood, and in every valley there is a rivulet. The foil in thofe valleys is light, but fer- tile and well adapted for the plentiful production of all the fruits, plants and corn of Europe. The fummer, though not hotter, is in general of a more equal tem- perature than in England ; and from the vegetables that were found here it was concluded, that the winters were rot fo fevere. The only quadrupeds that were difcovered were dogs and rats, and of the latter very few, but the former the inhabitants (like thofe of Otaheite) breed for food. There are feals and whales on the coafts, and we once faw a fea-lion. The birds are hawks, owls, quails, and fome melodious fong birds. There are ducks, and fhags of feveral forts, like thofe of Europe, and the gannet, which is of the fame fort. AlbetroiTes, Iheerwaters, penguins, and pintados, alfo vifit the coaft. The infects found here are, butterflies, flelh-flies, beetles, fand flies, and mufquitos. Tovy Poenamoo is barren and mountainous, and appeared to be almoft deftitute of inhabitants. -The ROUND THE WORLD. 1-69 The fea that wafhes thefe iflands abounds with delicate and wholefome filh. Whenever the vefiel came to an anchor, enough were caught with hook and line only, to fupply the whole fliip's company ; and when we fiflied with nets, every mefs in the fliip, where the people were induftrious, falted as much as fupplied them for feveral weeks. There were many forts of fifli here which we had never before feen, and which the failors named according to their fancies. They were fold on moderate terms to the crew : among the reft, fifli like the fkate, eels, congers, oyfters, flat-fifh refem- bling foles and flounders, cockles and various forts of mackarel were found in abundance upon the coaft. Here are forefts abounding with trees, producing large, ftrait and clean timber. One tree about the fize of our oak, was diftinguifhed by a fcarlet flower, compofed of feveral fibres, and another which grows in fwampy ground, very ftrait and tall, bearing fmall bun- ches of berries, and a leaf refembling that of the yew- tree. About 400 fpecies of plants were found, all of which are unknown in England, except garden night- made, fow thiftle, two or three kinds of fern, and one or two forts of grafs. We found wild celery, and a kind of creffes, in great abundance, on the fea-fhore ; and of eatable plants raifed by cultivation, only cocoas, yams, and fweet potatoes. There are plantations of many acres of thefe yams and potatoes. The inhabitants likewife cultivate the gourd ; and the Chinefe paper mulberry-tree is to. be found, but in no abundance. In New Zealand is only one fhrub or tree, which pro- duces fruit, which is a kind of berry almoft taftelefs ; but they have a plant which anlwers all the ufes of hemp and flax. There are two kinds .of this plant, the leaves of one of which are yellow, and the other a deep red, and both of them referable the leaves of flags. Of thefe leaves they make lines and cordage, and much ilronger than any thing of the kind in Europe. Thefe leaves they likewife fplit into breadths, and tying the flips together, form their fifliing nets. Their common apparel, by a fimple procefs, is made from the leaves, and their finer, by another preparation, is made from , Y the iyo COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE the fibres. This plant is found both in high and low ground, in dry mould and in deep bogs ; but as it grows largeft in the latter, that feems to be its proper foil, The natives are as large as the largeft Europeans. Their complexion is brown, but little more fo than that of a Spaniard. They are full of flelh, but not lazy and luxurious; and are (tout and well fhaped. The women poffefs not that delicacy, which diflinguifhes the European ladies ; but their voice chiefly diftinguifhes them from the men. The men are active in a high degree ; their hair is black, and their teeth are white and even. The features of both fexes are regular ; they enjoy perfect health, and live to an advanced age. They appeared to be of a gentle difpofition, and treat each other with the utmoft kindnefs ; but they are per- petually at war, every little diftrift being at enmity with all the reft. This is owing, moft probably, to the want of food in fufficient quantities at certain times. As they have neither black cattle, meep, hogs, nor goats j fo their chief food was fifh, which being not always to be had, they are in danger of dying through hunger. They have a few dogs ; and when no fim is to be gotten, they have only vegetables, fuch as yarns and potatoes, to feed on : and if by any accident thefe fail them, their lituation muft be deplorable. Not- withftanding the cuftom of eating their enemies, the circumftances and temper of thefe people is in fa- vour of thofe who might fettle among them as a co- lony. The inhabitants of New Zealand are as modeft and referved in their behaviour and converfation as the moft polite nations of Europe. The women, indeed, were not dead to the fofter impreflions ; but their mode of confent was in their idea as harmless as the confent to marriage vith us, and equally binding for the ftipu- lated time. If any of the Englifh addrefled one of their women, he was informed, that the confent of her friends inuft be obtained, which ufually followed, on his ma- king a prefent. This done he was obliged to treat his temporary wife as delicately as we dq in England. A gentleman w i i W V HOUND THE WORLD* 171 gentleman who failed in the Endeavour, having ad- drefifcd a family of fome rank, received an anfvver, of which the following is an exact tranflation. " Any of *' thefe young ladies will think themfelves honoured by Ci your addrefles, but you muft firft make me a prefentj " and ycu muft then come and fleep with us on fhore, " for day- light muft by no means be a witnefs of what " pafles between you." Thefe Indians anoint their hair with oil melted from the fat of fifh or birds. The poor people ufe that which is rancid, fo that they fmell very difagreeable ; but thofe of fuperior rank make ufe of that which is frefh. They wear combs both of bone and wood, which is conlidered as an ornament when ftuck upright in the hair. The men tie their hair in a bunch on the crown of the head, and adorn it with feathers of birds, which they likewife fometimes place on each fide of the temples. They commonly wear fhort beards. The hair of the women fometimes flows over their ftiouiders, and fometimes is cut fhort. Both fexes, but the men more than the women, mai k their bodies with black ftains, called amoco. In general the women ftain only the lips, but fometimes mark otherparts with black patches : the men on the contrary put on addi- tional marks from year to year, fo that thofe who are very ancient are almoft covered. Exclufive of the amoco, they mark themfelves with furrows. Thofe furrows made a hideous appearance, the edges being indented, and the whole quite black. The ornaments of the face are drawn in the fpiral form with equal ele- gance and correchiefs, both cheeks being marked ex- actly alike ; while paintings on their bodies refemble fillagree work, and the foliage in old chafed ornaments ; but no two faces or bodies are painted exactly after the fame model. The people of New Zealand, frequently left the breech free from thefe marks, which the inha- bitants of Otaheite adorned beyond any other. Thefe Indians likewife paint their bodies by rubbing them with red ocre, either dry or mixed with oil. Their drefs is formed of the leaves of the flag fplit into flips, which are interwoven and made into a kind y 2 of 172 COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE of matting, the ends, which are feven or eight inches in length, hanging out on the upper fide. One piece of this matting being tied over the fhoulders, reaches to the knees : the other piece being wrapped round the waift falls almoft to the ground. Theie two pieces are fattened to a ftring, which by means of a bodkin of bone is pailed through, and tacks them together. The men wear the lower garment only at particular times. They have two kinds of cloth befides the coarfe matting or lhag above-mentioned ; one of which is as coarfe, but beyond all proportion ftronger than the Englifh canvas ; the other which is formed of the fibres of a plant, drawn into threads which crofs and bind each other, refembles the matting on which we place our difhes at table. They make boarders of different colours to both thefe forts of cloth, refembling girls famplers, and finifhed with great neatnefs and elegance. What they confider as the moft ornamental part of their drefs is the fur of dogs, which they cut into ftripes, and few on diffe- rent parts of their apparel. As dogs are not plenty, they difpofe their ftripes with ceconomy. They have a few dreffes ornamented with feathers j and one man was fecn covered wholly with thofe of the red parrot. The women never tie their hair on the top of their head, nor adorn it with feathers ; and are lefs anxious about drefs than the men. Their lower garment is bound tight round them, except when they go out fifhing, and then they are careful that the men {hall not fee them. It once happened that fome of the Clip's crew furprifed them in this fituation, when fome of them hid themfelves among the rocks, and the reft kept their bodies under water till they had formed a girdle and apron of weeds ; and their whole behaviour manifefted the moft refined ideas of female modefty. The ears of both fexes were bored, and the holes ftretched fo as to admit a man's finger. The orna- ments of their ears are feathers, cloth, bones, and fome- times bits of wood ; a great many of them made ufe of the nails which were given them by the Englifh, for this purpofe, and the women fometimes adorned their ROUND THE WORLD* their ears with white down of the albetrofs, \vliich they fpread before and behind the whole in a large bunch. They likewife hung to their ears by firings, duffels, bodkins, the teeth of dogs, and the teeth and nails of their deceafed friends. The arms and ancles of the women are adorned withfhells and bones, or any thing elfe through which they can pafs a firing. The men wear a piece of green talc or whalebone, with the refemblanceof a man carved on it, hanging to a firing round the neck. We faw one man who had the griftle of his nofe perforated, and a feather paffcd through it, projecting over each cheek. Thefe people mew lefs ingenuity in the ftruflure of their houfes, than in any thing elfe belonging to them ; they are from fixteen to twenty-four feet long, ten or twelve wide, and fix or eight in height. The frame is of flight fticks of wood, and the walls and roof are made of dry grafs pretty firmly compacted. Some of them are lined with bark of trees, and the ridge of the houfe is formed by a pole which runs from one end to the other. The door is only high enough to admit a perfon crawling on hands and knees, and the roof is iloping. There is a fquare hole near the door, ferving both for window and chimney, near which is the fire place. A plank is placed over the door, adorned with a fort of carving, and this they confider as an orna- mental piece of furniture. The fide-walls and roof projecting two or three feet beyond the walls at each end form a fort of portico where benches are placed to fit on. The fire is made in the middle of a hollow fquare in the floor, wftich is inclofed with wood or flone. They fleep near the walls, where the ground is covered with flraw for their beds. Some who can afford it, whofe families are large, have three or four houfes, in- clofed in their court yard. Their clothes, arms, fea- thers, fome ill made tools, and a chefl, in which all thefe are depofited, form all the furniture of the infide of the houfe Their hammers to beat fern-root, gourds to hold water, and bafkets to contain provifions, are placed without the houfe. One houfe was found near 40 feet long, 20 wide, and 14 high. Its fides were adorned 174 COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE adorned with carved planks of workmanlhip (aperitif to the reft ; but the building appeared to have been left unfinimed. Though the people fleepwarm enough at home, they feem to defpife the inclemency of the weather, when they go in fearch of fifh or fern roots. Sometimes, indeed, they place a fmall defence to wind- ward, but frequently ileep undrefled with their arms placed round them, without the leaft (helter whatever. Belidcs the fern-root, which ferves them for breadj they feed on albetrofies, penguins, and fome other birds. Whatever they eat is either roafted or baked, as they have no veffel in which water can be boiled. We faw no plantations of cocoas, potatoes, and yams, to the fouthward, though there were many in the northern parts. The natives drink no other liquor than water, and enjoy perfect and uninterrupted health. When wounded in battle, the wound heals in a veryfhort time without the application of medicine ; and the very old people carry no other marks of decay about them thafi the lofs of their hair 4 and teeth, and a failure of their mufcular ftrength : but enjoy an equal (hare of health and chearfulnefs with the youngeih The canoes of this country are not unlike the whale- boats of New England, being long and narrow. The larger fort feem to be built for war, and will hold from 30 to 100 men. One of thefe at Tolaga meafured near 70 feet in length, fix in width, and four in depth. It was (harp at the bottom, and confided of three lengths, about two or three inches thick, and tied firmly toge- ther with ftrong plaiting ; each fide was found of one entire plank, about twelve inches broad, and about an inch and a half thick, whkh was fitted to the bottom fart with equal ftrength and ingenuity. Several thwarts were laid from one iide to the other, to which they were fecurely fattened, in order to itrengthen the canoes. Some few of their canoes at Mercury Bay and Opoorage, are all made entirely of one trunk of wood, which is made hollow by fire ; but by far the greater part are built after the plan above defcribed. The fmaller boats which are ufed chiefly in liming, are adorned at head and ftern with the figure of a man, the 3 eyes ROUND THE WORLD. 175 eyes of which are compofed of white fhells : a tongue of enormous fize is thruft out of the mouth, ancTthq whole face a picture of the moft abfolute deformity. The grander canoes, which are intended for war, are ornamented with open work, and covered with fringes of black feathers, which gives the whole an air of per- fect: elegance , the lide-boards which are carved in a rude manner, are embellifhed with tufts of white fea- thers. Thefe veflels are rowed with a kind of paddles, between five and fix feet in length, the blade of which is a long oval, gradually decreafing till it reaches the handle ; and the velocity with which they row with thefe paddles is very furprifing. Their fails are com- pofed of a kind of mat or netting, which is extended between two upright poles, one of which is fixed on each fide. Two ropes, fattened to the top of each pole, ferve inftead of meets. The veflels are fleered by two men having fuch a paddle, and fitting in the Hern ; but they can only fail before the wind, in which direction they move with confiderable fwiftnefs. The Indians ufe axes, adzes, and chiflels, with which lafl they likewife bore holes. The chiflels are made of jafper, or of the bone of a man's arm , their axes and adzes of a hard black, ftone. They ufe their fmall jafper tools till they areblunted^ and then throw them away, having no inftrument tofharpen them with. The Indians at Tolaga having been prefented with a piece of glafs, drilled a hole through it, and hung it round the neck. A fmall bit of jafper was thought to have been the tool they ufed in drilling it. Their tillage is excellent, owing to the neceflity they are under of cultivating or running the rifque of ftarv- ing. At Tegadoo their crops were juft put into the ground, and the furface of the field was as fmooth as a garden, the roots were ranged in regular lines, and to every root there remained a hillock. A long narrow flake, Sharpened to an edge at bottom, with a piece fixed acrofs a little above it, for the convenience of driving it into the ground with the foot, fupplies the phce both of plough and fpade. The foil being light, their work is not very laboriqus, and with this inftru- ment 176 COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ment alone they will turn up ground of fix or fevcn acres in extent. The feine, the large net wMch has been already no- ticed, is produced by the united labour, and is proba- bly the joint property of a whole town. Their fifli- hooks are of Ihell or bone ; and they have bafkets of wicker-work to hold the frm. Their warlike weapons are fpears, darts, battle-axes, and the patoo-patoo. The fpear, which is pointed at each end, is about fix- teen feet in length, and they hold it in the middle, fo that it is difficult to parry a pufh from it. Whether they fight in boats or on fhore the battle is hand to hand, fo that they muft make bloody work of it. They truft chiefly in the patoo-patoo, which is fattened to their wrifts, by means of a flrong flrap, that it may not be wrefted out of their hands. Thefe are worn in the girdles of people of a fuperior rank, as a military ornament. They have a kind of flafF of diflinction, which is carried by the principal warriors. It is formed of a whale's rib, is quite white, and adorned with carving, feathers, and the hair of their dogs. Some- times they had a flick fix feet long, inlaid with fhells, and otherwife ornamented like a military ftafF. This honourable mark of diftinction was commonly in the hands of the aged, who were alfo more daubed with the amoco. When they came to attack us, one or more of thefe old men thus diftinguifhed, were ufually in each canoe. It is their cuflom to flop about 50 or 60 yards from a {hip, when the chiefs rifmg from their feat, put on a dog's fkin garment, and, holding out their decorated ftafF, direct, them how to proceed. When they were too far from the fhip to reach it with their miflile wea- pons, then the defiance was given, and the words ufually were Karomai haromai, harre uta a patoo-pa- too, " Come on fhore, come on more, and we will kill you all with our patoo-patoos." While they thus threatened us, they approached gradually the bark, till clofe along- fide ; yet talking at intervals in a peaceable manner, and anfwering whatever queftions we alked them. Then again their menaces were renewed, till encouraged ROUND THE WORL'D. 177 encouraged by our fuppofed timidity, they began the war-fong and dance, the fure prelude of an attack, which always followed, and fometimes continued until the firing of fmall fhot repulfed them ; but at others, they vented their paflion, by throwing a few Hones at the fhip, in the way of infulting us. The contortions of thefe favage Indians are nume- rous.; their limbs are diftorted, and their faces are agitated with ftrange convulfive motions. Their tongue hangs out of their mouths to an amazing length, and their eye-lids are drawn fo as to form a circle round the eye. At the fame time they make their darts, brandifh their fpears, and wave their patoo- patoos to and fro in the air. There is an admirable vigour and activity in their dancing ; and in their fong they keep time with fuch exactnefs, that 60 or 100 paddles when ftruck againft the fides of their boats at once, make only a fingle report. In times of peace they fometimes fing in a manner refembling the war- fong, but the dance is omitted. The women, whofe voices are exceeding melodious and foft, fing likewife in a mufical, but mournful manner. One ot their in- flruments of mufic is a fhell, from which they produce a found not unlike that made with a common horn ; the other is a fmall wooden pipe, refembling a child's nine-pin, not fuperior in found to a child's wliiftle.. We never heard them attempt to fing to them, or to produce any meafured notes like what we call a tune. As to the horrid cuftom of eating human flefh, pre- valent among them, to what has been already faid on this head, we mail only add, that in molt of the coves, upon landing, we found near the places where fires had been made, flefh bones of men-, and among the heads that were brought on board, fomc of them had a kind of falfe eyes, and ornaments in their ears, ^ '^ alive. The head purchafed by Mr. Banks, and told with great reluctance, was that of a young perfon, and, by the cont.ulions on one fide, appeared to have received many violent blows. There had been lately a ikinniih, and we fuppofed the young man had been killed with the reft. No. 6. 1 The COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE The hippahs or villages of thefe people, of which there are feveral between the bay of Plenty and Queen Charlotte's found, are all fortified. In thefe they con- ftantly refide ; but nearTolaga, Hawk's Bay, and Po- verty Bay, only fingle houfes are to be feen, at a con- fklerable diftance from each other. On the fides of the .hills were erected long ftages, fupplied with darts and itones, thought by us to be retreats in time of aclion ; as it appeared that from fuch places they could combat with their enemies to great advantage. A magazine of provifions, confuting of dried fifh, and fern roots, was alfo discovered in thefe fortifications. The inhabitants of this part of the country were all fubjects of Teratu, who reiided near the Bay of Plenty ; and to their being thus united under one chief, they owed a fecurity unknown to thofe of other parts. Se- veral inferior governors are in the dominions of Teratu, to whom the moil implicit obedience is paid. One of the inhabitants having robbed afailor belonging to the Endeavour, complaint was made to a chief, who chaf- tizcd the thief by kicking and {hiking him, which correction he bore with unrefifting humility. The in- habitants of the fouthern parts formed little focieties, who had all things in common, particularly fiming nets and fine apparel. The latter, probably obtained in war, were kept in a little hut, deftined for that ufe, in the center of the town, and the feveral parts of the nets, being made by different families, were after- wards joined together for public ufe. Lefs account, in the opinion ofTupia, is made of the women here than in the South Sea iflands. Both fexes eat together; but how they divide their labour, we cannot determine with certainty, though we are inclined to believe that the jnen cultivate the ground, make nets, catch birds, and go out in their canoes to fifh; while the women are em- ployed in weaving cloth, collecting fhell-fim, and in drefling food. A^to the religion of thefe people, they acknowledge one Supreme Being, and f cvei al fubordinate deities, n.eu- mode of worfliip we could not learn, nor was iny place proper for that pui pofe fcen. There was in- deed ROUND THE WORLD. 179 deed a fmall fquare area, encompaffed with flones, in the middle of which hung a bafket of fern-roots on one of their fpades. This they faid was an offering to their gods, to obtain from them a plentiful crop of pro- vilions. They gave the fame account of the origin of the world, and the production of mankind, as our friends in Otaheite. Tupia, however, feemed to have much more deep and extenfive knowledge of thefe fub- jects than any of the people of this ifland, and when he ibmetimes delivered a long difcourfe, he was fure of a numerous audience, who heard with remarkable re- verence and attention. With regard to the manner of difpofing of their dead, we could form no certain opinion. The fouthern cliftricl: faid, they difpofed of their dead by throwing them into the fea ; but thofe of the north buried them in the ground. We faw, however, not the leait fign of any grave or monument ; but the body of many among the living, bore the marks of wounds, in token of grief for the lofs of their friends and relations. Seme of their fears were ne\vly made, a proof that their friends had died while we were there ; yet no one faw any thing like a funeral ceremony or proceffion, the rca- fon is, becaufe they affected to conceal every thing rc- fpecling the dead with the utmoft fecrecy. We pbferved a great fimilitude between the drcfs, furniture, boats, and nets of the New Zealanders, and the natives of the South Sea iflands, which evidently demonftrates that the common anceilors of both were ab origins natives of the fame country. Indeed the in- habitants of thefe different places have a tradition, that their anceftors fprangfrom another country many years fmce, and they both agree that this country was called Heawige. This is alib certain, that Tupia when he accofted the people here in the language of his own country, was perfectly umlerftood ; but perhaps a yet ftronger proof that their origin was the fame, will a rile from a fpe,cimen of their language, which we fhnll evince by a lift of words in both languages, according to the dialed of the northern and fouthern iilands of which New Zealand confifts ; whence it will appear, Z 2 that i8o COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE that the language of Otzheite does not differ more from that of New Zealand, than the language of the two illands from each other. THE LANGUAGE OF NEW ZEALAND. OTAHEITE. ENGLISH. Northern. Southern. Eareete Eareete Earee A chief. Taata Taata Taata A man. Whahine Whahine Ivahine A 'woman. Eupo Heaowpoho Eupo The head. Macau we Heoo-oo Roourou The hair. Terringa Hetaheyei Terrea The ear. Erai Hcai Erai Theforehead. Mata Hemata Mata The eyes. Paparinga Hepapaeh Paparea The cheeks. Ahewh Heeih Ahew The nofe. Hangoutou Hegaowai Outou The mouth. Ecouwai Hakaoewai The chin. Haringaringu Rema The arm. Maticara Hermaigawh Maneow The finder. Ateraboo , Oboo The belly. Apeto Heeapeto Peto The navel. Haromai Heromai Harromai Come hither. Heica Heica Eyea Fijh. Kooura Kooura Tooura A lob/ler. Taro Taro Taro Cocoas. Cumala Cumala Cumala Potatoes. Tuphwhe Tuphwhe Tuphwhe Tarns. Mannu Mannu Mannu Birds. Kaoura Kaoura Oure No. Tahai . Tahai One. Rua . . Rua Two. Torou .. Torou Three. Ha Hea Four. Rema Rema Five, Ono Ono Six. Etu , Hetu Seven. Warou T,, , . Warou Eight. Iva H ' ' Heva Nine. Angahourou ROUND THE WORLD. 181 NEW ZEALAND. Northern. Southern. Angahourou Hennihew Heneaho Mehow Amootoo > Mataketake Kheara Keno Eratou OTAHEITE. ENGLISH. Toubouna Owy Terra Keno Eratou Toubouna Ahourou Nihio Mattai Tcto Mataitai Heiva Eno Eraou Trees. Toubouna Grandfather. C What do Owy Terra < you call t this or that. Ten. The teeth. The wind. A thief. To examine. Tofing. Hence it appears evidently that the language of New Zealand and Otaheitc, is radically one and the fame. The dialect indeed is different as in England, where the word is pronounced gate in Middlefex, and geate in Yorkfhire ; and as the northern and fouthern words were taken down by two different perfons, one might poflibly ufe more words than the other to exprefs the fame found. Befides, in the fouthern parts they put the articles ke or ko before a noun, as we do thofe of the or a : it is alfo common to add the word ocia after another word, as we fay certainly r , or yes indeed ; and by not attending fufiiciently to this, our gentlemen fome- times, judging by the ear only, formed words of an enormous length : for example, one of them afking a native the name of the ifland, called Matuaro, he re- plied, with the particle ke prefixed Kt-matuaro ; and upon the queftion being repeated, the Indian added oeia, which made the word Ke-matuaro-oeia ; and upon infpeding the log book, Capt. Cook found Matuaro transformed into Gumettiwarrowtia. Now a fimilar or- thographical difference might happen, or a like mif- take might be made by a foreigner in writing anEnglifh word. Suppofe a New Zealander to enquire, when near to afk, What village is this? The anfwer might be, It is Hackney indeed. The Indian then for the informa- tion of his countrymen, had he the ufe of letters, might record, i8s COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE record, that he had parTed through, or been at a place called by the Englifti I tljjsackney indeed. We were ourfelves at firft led into many ridiculous miftakes, from not knowing that the article ufed in the South- Sea Iflands, is to or ta, inflead of ke or ko. We have fuppofed, that the original inhabitants of thefe iflands, and thofe in the South-Seas, came from the fame country; but what country that is, or where fituated, remains ftill a fubjecl: of enquiry. In this \ve all agreed, that the original natives were not of America, which lies to the eaftward ; and unlefs there mould be a continent to the fouthward, in a temperate latitude, we cannot but conclude that they emigrated from the- weftward. Before we clofe this account of New Zealand, we beg leave farther to obferve, that hitherto our navigation has been very unfavourable to the fuppofition of a Southern Continent. The navigators who have fup- ported the politions upon wjiich this is founded, arc Tafman, Juan Fernandes, Hermite, Quiros, and Rog- gewein ; but the track of the Endeavour has totally fub- verted all their theoretical arguments. Upon a view of the chart it will appear, that a large fpace extends quite to the tropics, which has not been explored by us nor any other navigators ; yet we believe there is no cape of any Southern Continent, and no Southern Con- tinent to the northward of 40 deg. fouth. Of what may lie farther to the fouthward of 40 deg. we can give- no opinion -, yet are far from difcouraging any future attempts after new difcoveries : for a voyage like this may be of public utility. Should no continent be found, new iilands within the tropics may bedifcovered. Tupia in a rough chart of his own drawing laid down no lefs than fevcnty-four ; and he gave us an account of above one hundred and thirty, which no European veiTel has ever yet vifrted. CHAP. CHAP. VIII. Paffage from New Zealand to Botany Bay, in New Hol- land Various Incidents related A Description of the Country and its Inhabitants The Endeavour fails front Botany Bay to Trinity Bay With a further Account of the Country Her dangerous Situation in her Pajfage from Trinity Bay to Endeavour River. ON Saturday the gift of March, 1770, we failed from Cape Farewell, having fine weather and a fair wind. This cape lies in latitude 4odeg. 33 min. S. and in 1 86 deg. W. longitude. The fame day we fteered weft ward, with a frefh gale till the 2nd of April, when by obfervation we found our latitude to be 40 deg. and our longitude from Cape Farewell, 2 deg. 3 i min. Weft. On the ninth in the morning, when in latitude 3 8 deg. 2 9 min. S. wefaw a tropic bird, a fight very unufual in fo high a latitude. On the 1 5th we faw an egg bird, and a gannet. As thefe birds never go far from land we founded all night, but had no ground at 1 30 fathom water. The day following a fmall land bird perched on the rigging, but we had no ground at 120 fathom. Tuefday the I7th, we had frefh gales with fqualls and dark weather in the morning ; and in the afternoon a hard gale and a great fea from the fouthward, which obliged us to run under our fore-fail and mizen all night. On the 1 8th in the morning, we were vifited by a pintado bird, and fome Port- Egmont hens, an infallible fign that land was near, which we difcovered at fix o'clock in the morning of the 1 9th, four or five leagues diftant. To the fouthermoft point in fight, \ve gave the name of Point Hicks, the name of our firft lieutenant who difcovered it. At noon, in latitude 37 deg. 5 min. and 210 deg. 29 min. W. longitude, another remarkable point or the fame land bore N. 20 E. difhnt about four leagues. This point rifing in a round hillock, extremely like the Ham 4 Head COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE Head at the entrance of Plymouth Sound, Capt. Cook therefore gave it the fame name. What we had yet ieen of the land was low and level ; the ihore white and fandy ; and the inland parts covered with wood and verdure. At this time we faw three water- fpouts at once ; two between us and the more, and the third at fome diftance upon our larboard quarter. In the evening, at fix o'clock, the northermoft point of land was diftant about two leagues, which we named Cape Howe. On the following day we had a diftant view of the country, which was in general covered with wood, and interfperfed with feveral fmall lawns. It appeared to be inhabited, as fmoke was feen in feveral places. At four o'clock the next morning, we faw a high moun- tain, Avhich from its fhape, was called Mount Drome- dary, under which there is a point which received the name of Point Dromedary. In the evening we were oppolite a point of land which rofe perpendicular, and was called Point Upright. On Sunday the 22d, we were fo near the fhore, as to fee feveral of the inhabi- tants on the coaft, who were of a very dark complexion, if not perfect negroes. At noon we faw a remarkable peeked hill, to which the captain gave the name of the Pigeon Houfe, from its refemblance of fuch a building. The trees on this illand were both tall and large, but we faw no place fit to give ihelter even to a boat. The captain gave the name of Cape George to a point of land difcovered on St. George's-day, two leagues to the north of which the fea formed a bay, which, from its fhape, was called Long Nofe ; eight leagues from which lies Red Point, fo called from the colour of the foil in its neighbourhood. On the 27th, we faw feveral inhabitants walking along the iiiore, four of them carrying a canoe on their fliouklcrs, but as they did not attempt to come off to the Ihip, the captain took Meflrs. Banks and Solander, and Tupia in the yawl, and employed four men to row them to that part of the fhore where they faw the natives, near which four fmall canoes lay clofe in land. The Indians fat on the rocks till the yawl was a quarter of a mile from the ihore, and then they ran away into the woods. The ' furf ROUNr) THE WORLD. 185 furf beating violently on the beech, prevented the boat from landing; the gentlemen were therefore obliged to make what obfervations they could at a diftance. The canoes refembled generally the fmaller fort of thofe of New Zealand. They faw a great number of cabbage trees on fhore ; the other trees were of the palm kind, and there was no underwood among them. At five in the evening they returned to the fhip,and a light breeze fpringing up, we failed to the northward, where we dif- covered feveral people on fhore, who, on our approach, retired to an eminence, foon after which two canoes ar- rived on the more, and four men, who came in them, joined the others. The pinnace having been fent a- head to found, arrived near the fpot where the Indians had ftationed themfelves, on which one of them hid himfelf among the rocks near the landing place, and the others retreated farther up the hill. The pinnace keeping along more, the Indians walked near in a line with her ; they were armed with long pikes, and a weapon refembling a fcymitar, and, by various figns and words, invited the boat's crew to land ; thofe who did not follow the boat, having obferved the approach of the fliip, brandifhed their weapons, and threw them- felves into threatening attitudes. The bodies, thighs, and legs of two of thefe, were painted with white ftreaks, and their faces were almoft covered with a white powder. They talked together with great emo- tion, and each of them held one of the above mention- ed weapons. The fhip having come to an anchor, we obferved a few huts, in which were fome of the natives ; and faw fome canoes, in each of which was a man em- ployed in ftriking fim with a kind of fpcar. We had anchored oppoiite a village of about eight houfes, and obferved an old woman and three children come out of a wood, laden with fuel for a fire ; they were met by three fmallcr children, all of whom, as well as the wo- man, were quite naked. The old woman frequently looked at the fhip with the utmoft indifference, and, as foon as me had made a fire, the fiihermen brought their canoes on fhore, and they fct abeut drefling their dinner with as much compofure, as: if a fhip had been No. 6. A a no r86 . COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE no extraordinary fight Having formed a defigfi of landing, we manned the boats, and took Tupia with us, and we had no fooner come near the more, than two men advanced, as if to difpute our fetting foot on land. They were each of them armed with different kinds of weapons. They called out aloud in a harm tone, warra warra wai ! the meaning of which Tupia did not under- ftand. The captain threw them beads, nails, and other trifles, which they took up, and feemed very well pleafed with. He then made lignals that he wanted water, and ufed every poflible means to convince them that no injury was intended. They made ligns to* the boat's crew to land, on which we put the boat in, but we had no fooner done fo, than the two Indians came again to oppofe us. A mufquet was now fired between them, on the report of which, one of them dropped a bundle of lances, which he immediately matched up again in great haile. One of them then threw a ftone at the boat, on which the captain ordered a mufquet loaded with fmall mot to be fired, which wounding the eldeft of them on the legs, he retired haftily to one of the houfes that flood at fome little diftance. The people in the boats now landed, imagining that the wound which this man had received would put an end to the conteft. In this, however, we were miftaken,for he immediately returned with a kind of thick!, of an oval figure, painted white in the middle, with two holes in it to fee through. They now advanced with great intrepidity, and both difcharged their lances at the boat's crew, but did not wound any of them. Another mufquet was fired at them, on which they threw another lance, and then took to their heels. We now went up to the huts, in one of which we found the children, who had fecreted themfelves behind fome bark. We looked at them, but left them without its being known we had feen them, and having thrown feveral pieces of cloth, rib- bands, beads, and other things into the hut, we took leveral of their lances, and then reimbarked in the boat. The canoes on this coaft were about 13 feet in length, each made of the bark of a fingle tree, tied up at the ends, and kept open in the middle by the means of flicks ROUND THE WORLD. 187 (ticks placed acrofs them ; their paddles were very fmall, and two were ufed at a time. We now failed to the north point of the bay, and found plenty of frefh water. On taking a view of the hut where we had feen the children, \ve had the morti- fication to find that every Indian was fled, and that they had left all the prefents behind them. The cap- tain now went in the pinnace to infpect the bay, and faw feveral of the natives, who all fled as he approached them. Some of the men having been fent to get wood and water, they no fooner went on board to dinner, than the natives came down to the place, and examined the calks with great attention, but did not offer to re- move them. When the people were on more in the afternoon, about twenty of the natives, all armed, ad- vanced within a trifling diftance of them, and then flopped, while two of their number approached dill nearer. Mr. Hicks, the commanding officer on more, went towards them, with prefents in his hands, and endeavoured, by every poflible means, to affure them of his friendly intentions, but to no purpofe, for they re- tired before he came up to them. In the evening, Meflrs. Banks and Solander, went with the captain to a cove north of the bay, where they caught between three and four hundred weight of fifh, at four hauls. On Monday the goth, the natives came clown to the huts before it was light, and were repeatedly heard to fhout very loud, and foon after day-break they were feen on the beach, but quickly retired about a mile, and kindled feveral fires in the woods. This day fome of the fliip's crew being employed in cutting grafs at a diftance from the main body, while the natives pur- fued them, but flopping within fifty or fixty yards of them, they Ihouted feveral times, and retreated to the woods. In the evening they behaved exactly in the fame manner, when the captain followed them alone and unarmed for fome time, but they Hill retired as he approached. On Tuefday, May the firft, the fouth point of the bay was named Sutherland Point, one of the feamen of the name of Sutherland, having died that day, was A a 2 buried i88 COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE buried on fhore ; and more prefents were left in the huts, fuch as looking-glaffes, combs, c. but the for-, mer ones had not been taken away. Making an ex- curfion about the country, we found it agreeably varie- gated with wood and lawn, the trees being ftrait and tall, and without underwood. The country might be cultivated without cutting down one of them. The grafs grows in large tufts, almoft clofe to each other, and there is a great plenty of it. In this excurfion, we met with many places where the inhabitants had flept without fhelter, and one man, who ran away the moment he beheld us. More prefents were left in their huts, and at their fleeping-places, in hopes of producing a friendly intercourfe. We faw the dung of an animal which fed on grafs, and traced the foot-fteps of another, which had claws like a dog, and was about the fize of a wolf: alfo the track of a fmall animal, whofe foot was like that of a pole-cat ; and faw one animal alive, about the lize of a ra^b t it. We found fomewood that had been felled, and the bark ftript off by the natives, and feveral growing trees, in which fteps had been cut, for the convenience of afcending them. The woods abound with avaft variety of beautiful birds, among which were cockatooes, and parroquets, which flew in large flocks. The fecond lieutenant, Mr. Gore, having been with a boat in order to drudge for oyflcrs, faw fome Indians, who made figns for him to come on fhore, which he declined : having finifhed his bufmefs, he fent the boat away, and went by land with a midfhipman, to join the party that was getting water. In their way they met with more than 20 of the natives, who followed them fo clofe as to come with- in a few yards of them ; Mr. Gore flopped and facecj them, on which the Indians flopped alfo, and \vhen he proceeded again, they followed him j but they did not attack him though they had each man a lance. The Indians coming in fight of the water-cafks, flood at the diftance of a quarter of a mile, while Mr. Gore and his companion reached their ihip-mates in fafety. T\vo or three of thewaterers now advanced towards the Indians, but obferving they did not retire, they very imprudently RUND THE WORLB. 189 imprudently turned about, and retreated haftily : this apparent fign of cowardice infpired the favages, who discharged four of their lances at the fugitives, which flying beyond them, they efcaped unhurt. They now flopped to pick up the lances-; on which the Indians retired in their turn. At this inftant the captain came up with MeiTrs. Banks and Solander, and Tupia ad- vancing made figns of friendlhip ; but the poor na- tives would not flay their coming up to them. On the following day they went again on more, where many plants were collected by Dr. Solander, and Mr. Banks. They faw feveral parties of the Indians, who all ran, away on their approach. Tupia having learnt to flioot, frequently ftayed alone to flioot parrots, and the Indi- ans conftantly fled away from .him with as much pre- cipitation as from the Englifli. On the gd of May, fourteen or fifteen Indians, in the fame number of ca- noes, were engaged in ftriking fifh within half a mile of the watering-place. At this time a party of the fliip's crew were mooting near the fimermen, one of whom Mr. Banks obferved to haul up his canoe on the beach, and approach the people who were mooting. He watched their motions unobferved by them, for more than a quarter of an hour, then put off his boat and re- turned to his filhing. At this time the captain, with Dr. Solander and another gentleman, went to the head of the bay to try to form iome connection with the In- dians. On their firlt landing they found feveral of the Indians on fhore, who immediately retreated to their canoes, and rowed off. They went up the coun- try, where they found the foil to be a deep black mould, which appeared to be calculated for the production of any kind of grain. They faw fome of the fineft mea- dows that were ever beheld, and met with a few rocky places, the ftorie of which is fandy, and feemed to be admirably adapted for building. In the woods they found a tree bearing cherries, iffhape and colour may intitlc them to that name, the juice of which was a- greeably tart. They now returned to their boat, and feeing a fire at a dittance, rowed towards it ; but the Indians fled at their coming near them. Nuir the beach 190 COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE beach they found feven canoes, and as many fires, from which they judged that each fifherman had drefled his own dinner. There were oyfters lying on the fpot, and fome mufcles roafting on the fire. They ate of thefe fifh, and left them fome beads and other trifles in return. They now returned to the ihip, and in the evening Mr. Banks went out with his gun, and faw a great number of quails, fome of which he mot, and they proved to be the fame kind as thofe of England. On the following day a midfhipman having ftayed from his companions, came fuddenly to an old man and wo- man, and fome children, who were fitting naked under a tree together: they feemed afraid of him, but did not run away. The man wore a long beard, and both he and the woman were grey-headed ; but the woman's hair was cut fhort. This day iikewife, two of another party met with fix Indians on the border of a wood, one of whom calling out very loud, a lance was thrown from a wood, which narrowly miffed them. The In- dians now ran off, and, in looking round they faw a youth defcend from a tree, who had doubtlefs been placed there for the purpofe of throwing the lance at them. This day the captain went up the country on the north fide of the bay, which he found to refemble the moory grounds of England ; but the land was thinly covered with plants about 16 inches high. The hills rife gradually behind each other, for a coniiderable diftance, and between them is marfhy ground. Thofe who had been fcnt out to fifh this day, met with great fuccels, and the fecond lieutenant ftruck a fifh called the Stingray, which weighed near two hundred and fifty pounds. The next morning a fifh of the fame kind was taken, which weighed three hundred and fifty pounds. The name of Botany Bay was given to this place from the large number of plants collected by Meffrs. Banks and Solander. This country pro- duces two kinds of wood which may be deemed tim- ber, one of which is tall and ftrait like the pine, and the other is hard, heavy, and dark-coloured, like lig- num vitae ; it yields a red gum, like dragon's blood, and bears fome rcfemblance of the Englifh'oak. There are ROUND THE WORLD. are mangroves in abundance, feveral kinds of palm, and a few flirubs. Among other kinds of birds, crows were found here, exactly like thofe of England. There is great plenty of water-fowls, among the flats of fand and mud ; one of which is fliaped like a pelican, is larger than a f\van, and has black and white feathers. Thefe banks of mud abound with cockles, mufcles, oyfters, and other fhell-fifh, which greatly contribute towards the fupport of the natives, who fometimes drefs them on fliore, and at other times in their canoes. They likewife caught many other kinds of fifli with hooks and line. While the captain remained in the harbour, the En- glifh colours were difplayed on fliore, daily, and the name of the fliip, with the date of the year, was carved on a tree near the place where we took in our water. On Sunday the 6th of May, we failed from Botany Bay, and at noon were oft" a harbour, which was called Port Jackfon, and in the evening, near a bay, to which we gave the name of Broken Bay. The next day at noon, the northermoft land in fight pro- jected fo as to juftify the calling it Cape Three Points. On Wednefday the pth, we faw two exceeding beauti- ful rainbows, the colours of which were ftrong and lively, and thofe of the inner one fo bright, as to reflect its fhadow on the water. They formed a complete (f- micircle, and the fpace between them was much darker than the reft of the fky. On Thurfday we pafled a rocky point, which was named Point Ste- phens. Next day faw fmoke in feveral places on fhore, and in the evening difcovered three remarkable high hills near each other, which the captain named the Three Brothers. They lie in latitude 31 deg. 40 min. and may be feen thirteen or fourteen leagues from the fliore. Sunday, the I3th, we faw the fmokc of fires, on a point of land, which -was there/ore called Cape Smokey. As we proceeded from Botany Bay, north- ward, the land appeared high and well covered with wood. In the afternoon, we difcovered fome rocky iflancU COOK'S FIRST VdYAGfi iflands between us and the land, the fouthcrmoft df which is in latitude 30 deg. 10 min. and the norther- moft in 29 cleg. 58 min. On Tuefday morning, by the affiftance of our glaffes, we difcerned about a fcore of Indians, each loaded with a bundle, which we ima- gined to be palm leaves for covering their houfes. We traced them for more than an hour, during which time they took not the leaft notice of themip; at length they left the beach, and were loft behind a hill, which they gained by a gentle afcent. At noon, in latitude 28 deg. 37 min. 30 fee. fouth, and in 206 deg. 30 min. weft longitude, the captain. difcovered a high point of land, and named it Cape Byron. We continued to fleer along the fhore with a frefli gale, and in the even- ing we discovered breakers at a conliderable diftance from the fhore, fo that we were obliged to tack, and get into deeper water; which having done, we lay with the head of the vcfTel to the land till the next morning, when we were furprized to find ourfetves far- ther to the fouthward than we had been the preceding evening, notwithftanding we had a foutherly wind all night. The breakers lie in latitude 28 deg. 2 2 min. fouth. In the morning we paffed the breakers, near a peaked mountain, which we named Mount Warning, fituated in 2 8 deg. 22 min. fouth latitude. The point off which thefe ihoals lie, Capt. Cook named Point Danger. We purfued our courfe, and the next day fay more breakers, near a point, which we diftin- guifhed by the name of Point Look-out ; to the north of which the more forms a wide open bay, which we called Moreton's Bay, and the north point thereof Cape Moreton. Near this are three hills, which we called the Glafs Houfes, from the very ftrong refemblance they bore to fuch buildings. On Friday, the i8th, at two in the morning, we de- fcried a point fo unequal, that it looks like two fmall iflands under the land, and it was therefore called Double Ifland Point. At noon, by the help of glafies, we difcovcred fome fcnds, which lay in patches of fe- veral acres. We obferved they were moveable, and that they had not been long in their preient fituation ; for for we faw trees half buried, and the tops of others Hill green. At this time two beautiful water-fnakes fwam by the fhip, in every refpecl refembling land fnakes, except that their tails were flat and broad, probably to ferve them inflead of fins in fwirnming. Saturday, the I9th at noon, we failed about four leagues from the land, and at one o'clock faw a point, whereon a number of Indians were aflembled, from Whence it was called Indian Head. Soon afterwards we faw many more of the natives ; alfo fmoke in the day time, and fires by night. The next day we faw a point, which was named Sandy Point, from two large tracts of white fand that were on it. Soon after we paffed a fhoal, which we called Break Sea Spit, be- caufe we had now fmooth water, after having long en- countered a high fea. For fome days paft we had feen the fea birds, called boobies, none of which we had met with before ; and which, from half an hour after, were continually palling the fhip in large flights : from which it was conjectured, that there was an inlet or river of mallow water to thefouthward, where they went to feed in the day time, returning in the evening to fome iflands to the northward. In honour of Capt. Hervey we named this bay, Hervey's Bay. On Tuefday, the 22nd, at fix in the morning, by the help of our glaffes, when a-breaft of the fouth point of a large bay, in which the captain intended to an- chor, we difcovered, that the l?.nd was covered '.vitii palm-nut-trees, none of which we had feen fince we had quitted the ilhncls within the tropic. On the 2gd, early in the morning, Capt, Cook attended by feveral gentlemen, and Tupia, went on fhore to exa- mine the country. The wind blew fo frefli, and we found it fo cold, that being at fome diftance from the fliore, we took with us our cloaks. We landed u lit- tle within the point of a bay, which led into a Luge lagoon, by the fides of which grows the true mangrove, fuch as is found in the Weft-Indies, as it docs alfo on fome bogs, and fwamps of fait water which we difco- vered. In thefe mangroves were many nefts of ants of a fingular kind, being as green as grafs. When the 6. B b brandies COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE branches were moved, they came forth in great num- bers, and bit the difturber moft feverely. Thefe trees Hkewife afforded fhelter for immenfe numbers of green caterpillars, whofe bodies were covered with hairs, which, on the touch, occafioned a pain fimilar to the Iting of a nettle, but much more acute. Thefe infects were ranged fide by fide on the leaves, thirty or forty together, in a regular manner. Among thefand-banks we faw birds larger than fwans, which we imagined were pelicans; and fhot a kind of buflard, which weighed feventeen pounds. This bird proved very de- licate food, on which account we named this bay, Buf- tard Bay. We Hkewife fhot a duck of a moft beautiful plumage, with a white beak. "We found an abundance of oyfters, of various forts, and among the reft fome ham- mer oyfters of a curious kind. The country here is much worfe than that about Botany Bay, the foil being dry and fandy,but the fides of the hills are covered with trees, which grow feparately without underwood. We law the tree that yields a gum like thefangitis draconis, but the leaves are longer than the fame kind of trees in other parts, and hang down like thofe of a weeping willow. While we wft-e in the woods, feveral of the natives took a furvey of the fhip and then departed. We faw on more fires in many places, and repairing to one of them, found a dozen burning near them. The people were gone, but had left fome fliclls and bones of iifh they had juft eaten. We perceived likewife feve- ral pieces of foft bark about the length and breadth of a man, which we judged had been ufed as beds. The M'hole was in a thicket of clofe trees, which afforded good fhelter from the wind. This kind of encamp- ment was in a thicket well defended from the wind. The place feemed to be much trodden, and as there was no appearance of a houfe, it was" imagined that they fpent their nights, as well as their days, in the open air: even Tupia fhook his head and exclaimed, Taata Enos ! " Poor Wretches i" On Thin fday, the 24th, we made fail out of the bay, and on the day following were a-breaft of a point, which being immediately under the tropic, the captain named ROUND THE WORLD. named Cape Capricorn, on the weft fide whereof we faw an amazing number of large birds refembling the pelican, fome of which were near live feet high. We now anchored in twelve fathom water, having the main land and barren iflands in a manner all round us. Sunday, the 27th, we ftood between the range of almoft barren iflands, and the main land, which ap- peared mountainous. We had here very mallow wa- ter, and anchored in fixteen feet, which was not more than the fhip drew. Mr. Banks tried to fifh from the cabin windows, but the water was too mallow. The ground indeed was covered with crabs, which greedily feized the bait, and held it till they were above water. Thefe crabs were of two kinds, one of a very fine blue, with a white belly , and the other marked with blue on the joints, and having three brown fpots on the back. On Monday, the 28th, in the morning, we failed to the.northward, and to the northermoft point of land we gave the name of Cape Manifold, from the num- ber of high hills appearing above it. Between this cape and the more is a bay which we called Keppel's, and to feveral iflands, we gave the name of the fame admiral. This day being determined to keep the main land clofe aboard, which continued to trend away to the weft, we got among another duller of iflands. Here we were greatly alarmed, having on a fudden but three fathom water, in a ripling tide; we immediately pvt the Ihip about, and hoilted out the boat in fearch of deeper water; after which we ftood to the weft with an eafy fail, and in the evening came to the entrance of a bay. In the afternoon, having founded round the ihip, and found that there was water fuflicicnt to carry her over the flioal, we weighed, and ftood to the weft- ward, having fent a boat a-head to found, and at fix in the evening we anchored in ten fathom, withafancly bottom, at about two miles diftant from the main. On Tuefday, the 2pth, we had thoughts "of laying the fliip afliore, and cleaning her bottom, and therefore Janded with the mafter in fearch of a convenient place for that purpofe. In this excurfion Dr. Solander and Mr. Banks accompanied us ; we found walking cx- B b 2 treiuely COOK'S FIRST' VOYAGE tremely incommodious, the ground being covered wi;h graft, the feeds of which were {harp and bearded, fo that they were continually flicking in our cloaths, whence they worked forwards to the flefh. by means of the beard. We were alfo perpetually tormented with the flings of mufquetos. Several places were found convenient to lay down the fhip afhore, but to our great difappointment, we could meet with no frefh water. We proceeded, however, up the country, and in the interior part, we found gum trees, on the branches whereof were white ants nefts formed of clay, as big as a bufliel. On another tree we faw black ants,, which perforated all the twigs, and after they had eaten out the puli, formed their lodging in the hol- lows which contained it ; yet the trees were in a flou- riffling condition. We alfo faw in the air many thou- fands of butterflies, which ever way we looked ; and every bough was covered with incredible numbers. On the dry ground we difcovered, fuppofed to have been left by the tide, a fifli about the fize of a min- now, having two ftrong breaft fins, with which it leaped away as nimbly as a frog : it did not appear to be weakened by being out of the water, nor even to pre- fer that element to the land, for when feen in the water it leaped on fhore, and purfued its way. It was like- \vife remarked, that where there were fmall ftones pro- jgfting above the water, it chofe rather to leap from one ftone to another, than to pafs through the water. On Wednefday, the 3oth, Capt. Cook, and other gen- tlemen, went afhore, and having gained the fummit of a hill, took a furvey of the coaft, and the adjacent iilands, which being done, the captain proceeded with Dr. Solander up an inlet, that had been difcovered the preceding day ; but the weather proving unfa- vourable, and from a fear of being bewildered among the fhoals in the night, they returned to the fhip, hav- ing fecn the whole day, only two Indians, who followed the boat a confiderable way along fhore; but the tide running ftrong, the captain thought it not prudent to wait for them. While thefe gentlemen were tracing the inlet, Mr. Banks, with a party, endeavoured to penetrate ROUND T^E WoRLp. 797 penetrate into the country, and having met with a piece of fvvampy ground, we refolved to pals it ; but before we got half way, we found the mud almolt knee deep. The bottom was covered with branches of trees, interwoven on the furface of the fwamp, on which we fometimes kept our footing ; fometimes our feet ilipt through ; and fometimes we were fo entangled among them, as not to be able to free ourfelves but by groping in the mud and flime with our hands. However, we crofTed it in about an hour, and judged it might be about a quarter of a mile over. Having performed this difagreeable tafk, we came to a fpot, where had been four fmall fires, near which were fome bones of fifh that had been roafted ; alfo grafs laid in heaps, whereon four or five perfons probably had ilept. Our fecond lieutenant, Mr. Gore, at another place, fawthe track of a large animal, near a gully of water ; he alfo heard the founds of human voices, but did not fee the people. At this place two turtles, fome water fowl^ and a few fmall birds, were feen. As no. water was to be found in our different excurfions, for feveral of our crew were alfo rambling about, the captain called the inlet where the fhip lay, Thirfty Sound. It lies in la- titude 22deg. lomin. fouth, and in 210 cleg. iSmin. weft longitude, and may be known by agroup of iflands that lie right before it, between three and four leagues out at fea. We had not a fingle inducement to Hay longer in a place, where we could not be fupplied with frefli water, nor with provifion of any kind. We caught neither fiih nor wild fowl ; nor could we get a mot at the fame kind of water-fowl, which we had fcen in Bo- tany Bay. Therefore on the 3 i ft at fix o'clock, A. M. we weighed anchor, and put to fea. We kept without the iilands that lie in more, and to the N. W. of Thirfty Sound, as there appeared to be no fafe pallage between them and the main, at the fame time we had a number of iilands without us, extending as far as we could fee. Pier Head, the N. W. point of Thirfty Sound, bore S. E. diftant fix leagues, being half way between the iflands which are off the caft point of the weftern in- let, and three imall iilands Uiat lie directly without them. COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE them. Having failed round thefe laft, wecame to an an- chor in fifteen fathom water, and the weather being dark, hazy, and rainy, we remained under the lee of them till feven o'clock of the next morning. On the i ft of June, we got under fail, and our lati- tude by obfervation was 2 i cleg. 29 min. fouth. We had now quite open the weftern inlet, which we have cliftinguimed by the name of Bfead Sound. A point of land which forms its N. W. entrance, we named Cape Palmerfton, lying in 21 deg. 30 min. S. latitude, and in 2 10 deg. 54 min. W. longitude. Between this cape and Cape Townfhend is the bay, which we have called the Bay of Inlets. At eight in the evening, we an- chored in eleven fathom, with a fandy bottom, about two leagues from the main land. Saturday the 2nd, we got under fail, and at noon, in latitude 20 cleg. 56 min. wefaw a high promontory, which we named Cape Hilfborough. It bore W. half N. ciiftant feven miles. The land appeared to abound in wood and herbage, and is diverfified with hills, plains, and valleys. A chain of iflands large and fmali are lituated at a diftance from the coaft and under the land, from fome of which we faw fmoke afcending in different places. On Sunday, the 3d, we difcovered a point of land, which we called Cape Conway, and between that and Cape Hilfborough, a bay to which we gave the name of llepulfe Bay. The land about Cape Conway forms a moft beautiful landfcape, being diverfified with hills, dales, woods, and verdant lawns. By the help of our glaflcs we difcovered two men and a woman on one of the iflands, and a canoe with an outrigger like thole of Otaheite. This day we named the iflands Cumberland Klands, in honour of the duke; and a paffage which \vc had difcovered, was called Whitfunday paffage, from the day on which it was feen. At day-break, on Mon- day the 4th, we were abrcaft of a point, which we called Cape Gloucefter. Names were alfo given this clay to three other places, namely, Holborne'lfle, Edg- cinnbe Bay, and Cape Upftart, which laft was fo called becauie it rifes abruptly from the low lands that fur^ round ROUND THE WORLD. 199 round it. Inland are fome hills or mountains, which, like the cape, afford but a barren profpecl. On Tuefday the 5th, we were about four leagues from land, and our latitude by obfervation was 19 deg. 12 mift. S. We faw very large columns of fmoke ii~ fmg from the low lands. We continued to fteer W. N. W. as the land lay, till noon on the 6th, when our latitude by obfervation was 19 deg. i min. S. at which time we had the mouth of a bay all open, diftant two leagues. This we named Cleveland Bay ; and the eaft point Cape Cleveland. The weft, which had the ap- pearance of an ifland, we called Magnetical jfland, be- caufe the compafs did not traverfe well when we were near it : they are both high, as is the main land be- tween them, the whole forming a furface the moft rugged, rocky, and barren of any we had feen upon the coaft : yet it was not without inhabitants, for we law fmoke in feveral parts of the bottom of the bay. Thurfday the 7th, at day-break we were a-breaft of the eaftern part of this land, and in the afternoon faw feveral large columns of fmoke upon the main ; alfo canoes, and fome trees, which we thought were thofe of the cocoa-nut ; in fearch of which, as they would have been at this time very acceptable, Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander went afhore with lieutenant Hicks; but in the evening they returned with only a few plants, ga- thered from the cabbage-palm, and which had. been miftaken for the cocoa-tree. On Friday, the 8th, we flood away for the norther- moft point in fight, to which we gave the name of Point Hillock. Between this and Magnetical llle the more forms Halifax Bay, which affords fhelter from all winds. At fix in the evening we were a-breaft of a point of land, which we named Cape Sandwich. From hence the land trends W. and afterwards N. forming a fine large bay, which was named llockingham Bay. We now ranged northward along the more, towards a, clufter of iflands, on one of which about forty or fifty jnen, women, and children wcrc-ftandin" together, all fhirk naked, and looking at the fhip with a curiofity never obicrvcd among thcfc people before. At noon our 00 COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE our latitude, by obfervation, was 17 deg. 59111111. and we were a-breaft of the north point of llockingbam Bay, which bore from us W. diftant about Ijwo miles. This boundary of the bay is formed by an ifland of con-' ftderable height, which we diftinguifhed by the name of Dunk Hie* On Saturday, the as the tide fell, the water poured in fo rapidly, that we could fcurce keep her free by the conftant working of two pumps. Our only hope now depended on the mid- night tide, and preparations were accordingly made for another effort to get the fhip off. The tide began to rife at five o'clock, when the leak likcwife increafed to fuch a degree, that two pumps more were manned, but only one of them would work; three, therefore, were kept going till nine o'clock, at which time the fhip righted ; but fo much water had been admitted by the leak, that we expeded me would fink as foon as the wa- ter mould bear her off the rock. Our fituation was now deplorable, beyond defcription, almoft all hope being at an end. We knew that when the fatal moment fhould arrive, all authority would be at an end. The boats were incapable of conveying ail on fhore, and we i dreaded ROUND THE WORLD. dreaded a conteft for the preference, as more mocking than the ihipwreck itfelf : yet it was confidered, that thofe who might be left on board, would eventually meet with a milder fate than thofe who, by gaining the ihore, would have no chance but to linger out the re- mains of life among the rudeft favages in the univerfe, and in a country, where fire-arms would barely e*nable them to fupport themfelves in a mcft wretched fitua- tion. At twenty minutes after ten thefhip floated, and was heaved into deep water, when we were happy to find that me did not admit more water than me had done before : yet as the leak had for a coniiderable time gained on the pumps, there was now three feet nine inches water in the hold. By this time the men were fo worn by fatigue of mind and body, that none of them could pump more than five or fix minutes at a time, and then threw themfelves, quite fpent, on the deck, nmidft a dream of water which came from the pumps. The fncceeding man being fatigued in his turn, threw himfelf down in the fame manner, while the former jumped up and renewed his labour, thus mutually ftruggling for life, till the following accident had like to have given them up a prey to abfolute defpair, and thereby infured our deftruclion. Between the infide lining of the fhip's bottom, which is called the cieling, and the outfide planking, there is a fpace of about feventeen or eighteen inches. The man who had hitherto taken the depth of water at the well, had taken it no farther than the cieling, but being now relieved by another perfon, who took the depth of the outfide plank, it appeared by this miftake, that the leak had fuddenly gained upon the pumps, the whole difference between the two planks. This circumftance deprived us of all hopes, and fcarce any one thought it worth while to labour, for the longer prefervation of a life which muft fo foon have a period : but the miftake was foon difcovered ; and the joy arifing from fuch un- expert ed good news infpired the men with fo much vigour, that before eight o'clock in the morning, they had pumped out confiderably more water than they had {hipped. We now talked of nothing but getting the C c 2 Ihip 204 COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ihip into fome harbour, and fet heartily to work to get in the anchors ; one of which, and the cable of another, we loft ; but thefe were now confidered as trifles. Hav- ing a good breeze from fea, we got under fail at eleven o'clock, and fleered for land. As we could not dif- cover the exacl: lituation of the leak, we had no profped of flopping it within fide of the veffel, but on Tuefday the 1 2th, the following expedient, which one of the midfhipmen had formerly feen tried with fuccefs, was adopted. We took an old ftudding fail, and having mixed a large quantity of oakham and wool, chopped 1m all, it was flitched down in handfuls on the fail, as lightly as poflible, the dung of fheep and other filth being fpread over it. Thus prepared, the fail was hauled under the fliip, by ropes, which kept it extended till it came under the leak, when the faction carried in the oakham and wool from the furface of the fail. This experiment fucceeded fo well, that inflead of three pumps, the water was eafily kept under with one. We had hitherto no farther view than to run the fhip into fome harbour, and build a veffel from her mate- rials, in which we might reach the Eafl-Indies ; but we now began to think of finding a proper place to re- pair her damage, and then to purfue her voyage on its original plan. At fix in the evening we anchored feven leagues from the fhorc ; and found that the fhip made 15 inches water an hour during the night ; but as thepumps could clear this quantity, we were not uneafy. At nine in the morning we paffed two iflands, which were called Hope Iflands, becaufe the reaching of them had been the objecl of our wifhes, at the time of the fhipwreck. In the afternoon, the mafler was fent out with two boats to found and fearch for a harbour where the fhip might be repaired, and we anchored at fun-fet, in four fathoms water, two miles from the fhore. One of the mates being fent out in the pinnace, returned at; nine o'clock, reporting, that he had found fuch a har^ bour as was wanted, at the diflance of two leagues. Wednefday the i 3th, at fix o'clock we failed, having previoufly lent two boats a-head, to point out the fhoals that we law in our way. We loon anchored about a mile HOUND THE WORLD. 205 mile from the fliore, when tLc captain went out, and found the channel very narrow, but the harbour was better adapted to our prefent purpofe, than any place we had feen in the whole courfe of the voyage. As it blew very frefh this day and the following night, we could not venture to run into the harbour, but re- mained at anchor during the t\vo fucceeding days, in the courfe of which we obferved four Indians on the hills, who flopped and made two fires. Our men, by this time, began to be afflicled with the fcurvey ; and our Indian friend Tupia was fo ill with it, that he had livid fpots on both his legs. Mr. Green the aftronomer was likewife ill of the fame diforder ; fo that our being detained from landing was every way difagreeable. The wind continued frem till the lyth, and then we refolved to pufh in for the harbour, and twice ran the fhip a-ground j the fecond time fhe fluck faft, on which we took down the booms, fore-yard, and fore-top mails, and made a raft on the fide of thefhip ; and, as the tide happened to be rifing, me floated at one o'clock. We foon got her into the harbour, where me was moored along the fide of a beach, and the anchors, cables, c. immediately taken out of her. CHAP. IX. The Ship is refitted in Endeavour River Tranfaclions dur- ing that 'Time The Country, its Inhabitants and Pro- dudions defcribed A Description cf the Harbour, the adjacent Country, and fever al I/lands near the Coaft The Range from Endeavour River to the northern Ex- tremity of the Country And the Dangers of that Na- vigation The Endeavour departs from South Wales- That Country, its Product and People defcribcd y with a Specimen of the Language. ON Monday, the i8th, in the morning, we creeled a tent for the lick, who were brought on fhore as foon as it was ready for their reception. We likewife built 2c6 COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE built a flage from the fhip to the fhore, and fet up a tent to hold the provifions and {lores, that were landed the fame day. The boat was now difpatched in fearch of fifli for the refrefhment of the fick, but fhe returned without getting any ; but Tupia employed himfelf in angling, and living entirely upon what he caught, recovered his health very faft. In an excurfion Mr. Banks made up the country, he faw the frames of feve- ral huts, and Ca^ . Cook having afcended one of the highefl hills, obferved the land to be ftoney and barren, and the low land near the river over-run with mangroves, among which the falt-water flowed every tide. Tuefday, the ipth, the fmith's forge was fet up, and the armourer prepared the neceffary iron-work for the repair of the veffel. The officers ftores, ballaft, water, &c. were likewife ordered out, in order to lighten the ftiip. This day Mr. Banks crofTed the river t view the country, which he obferved to be little elfe than fand hills. He faw vaft flocks of pigeons, moft beautiful birds, of which he fhot feveral. On Wed- nefday the aoth, as we were removing the coals, the water rufhed in, near the forem aft, about three feet from the keel ; fo that it was refolved to clear the hold entirely; which being done on Friday the 22nd, we warped the fhip higher up the harbour, to a fla- tion more proper for laying her afhore, in order to flop the leak. Early in the morning, the tide having left her, we proceeded to examine the leak, when it appear- ed that the rocks had cut through four planks into the timbers, and that three other planks were damaged. In thefe breaches not a fplinter was to be feen, the whole being fmooth as if cut away by an inftrument : but it was the will of an omnipotent being, that the vefiei ihould be preferved by a very iingular circum- flancc : for though one of the holes was large enough to have funk her, even with eight pumps conflantly at work, yet this inlet to our destruction was partly flopped up, by a fragment of the rock being left fticking therein. We likewife found fome pieces of the oak- ham, wool, &c. which had got between the timbers, and .\iiiiiial/Y////Av/ /#/ Coast y 'NEW HOLLAND O . . HOUND THE WORLD, 207 and flopped thofe parts of the leak that the (lone had left open. Exclufive of the leak, great damage was done to various parts of the {hip's bottom. While the fmiths were employed in making nails and bolts, the Car- penters began to work on the vefTel ; and fome of the people were fent on the other fide of the river to fhoot pigeons for the fick. They found a ftream of frefh water, feveral inhabitants of the Indians, and faw a moufe-coloured animal, exceeding fwift, and about the lize of a greyhound. On Saturday the 2^d, a boat was difpatched to haul the feine, and returned at noon with only three fifh, and yet we faw them in plenty leaping about the harbour. This day many of the crew faw the animal above- mentioned ; and one of the feamen declared he hadfeen the devil, which John thus defcribed, " He was, fays he, as large as a one gallon keg, and very like it : he had horns and wings, yet he crept fo flowly through the grafs, that if I had not been afeard, I might have touched him." This formidable apparition we after- wards difcovered to have been a batt, which we muft acknowledge has a frightful appearance, it being black, and full as large as a partridge ; but the man's own ap- prehenfions had furnifhed his devil with horns. Sunday, Mr. Gore and a party of men fent out with him, procured a bunch or two of wild plantains, and a few palm cabbages, for the refreshment of the fick : and this day the Captain and Mr. Banks faw the animal already mentioned. It had a long- tail that it carried like a greyhound, leaped like a deer, and the point of its foot rcfembied that of a goat. The repairs of the fhip on the {larboard iicie having been finifhed the pre- ceding day, the carpenters now began to work under her larboard bow j and being examined abnft it appear- ed flie had received very little injury in that quarter. Mr. Banks having removed his whole collection of plants into the bread room, they were this day under water, by which fome of them were totally deilroycd ; however by great care moft of them were reftorcd to a ftate of prefcrvation. A plant was found this day, the 25th, the leaves of which were almofl as good as fpinnage ; 20$ COOK'S FIRST VOYAG.E fpinnage ; alfo a fruit of a deep purple colour, and die fize of a golden pippin, which after having been kept a few days tafted like a damfon. On Tuefday, the 26th, the carpenter was engaged in caulking the fhip, and the men in other neceflary bulinefs ; and on the 2yth the armourer continued to work at the forge, and the carpenter on the fhip ; while the captain made fe- veral hauls with the large net, but caught only between twenty and thirty fifh, which were diftributed among the fick, and thofe who were not yet quite recovered. We began this day to move fome of the weight from the after-part of the fhip forward, to eafe her. On the 28th, Mr. Banks with fome fcamen went up into the country, to whom he fhewed a plant which fcrved them for greens, and which the inhabitants of the Weft-In- dies call Indian Kale. Here we faw a tree notched for climbing ; alfo nefls of white ants from a few inches to five feet in height ; prints of mens feet, and the tracks of three or four animals were likewife clifcovered. On Friday the 29th, at two o'clock in the morning, Capt. Cook with Mr. Green, obferved an emerfion of Jupiter's firft fatellite : the time here was 2 hours 18 min. 53 fee. which makes the longitude of this place 214 deg. 42 min. 30 fee. W. and the latitude 15 deg. 26 min. S. At dawn of day the boat was fent out to haul for fifh, and took what made an allowance of one pound and a half to each man. One of our midfhip- men, this day abroad with his gun, reported, that he had feen a wolf, refembling exactly the fame fpecies in America, at which he mot, but could not kill it. The next morning, being the ;oth, the captain aiccncled a hill to take a view of the fea, when he obferved innu- merable land banks and fhoals, in every direction ; but to the northward there was an appearance of a paflage, which feemed the only way to fleer clear of the fur- rounding dangers, efpecialfy as the wind blows con- fhntly from the S. E. Mr. Gore faw this day two ftraw coloured animals of the fixe of a hare, but fhapecl like a dog. In the afternoon the people returned v.ith fuch a quantity of fifh, that two pounds and a half were diftributed to each man ; and plenty of greens had ROUND THE WORLD. -209 had been gathered, which when boiled with peas made an excellent mefs, and we all thought this day's fare an unfpeakable rcfrefhment. On Sunday, the ift of July, all the crew had permif- fion to go on fhore, except one from each mefs, part of whom were again fent out with the feine, and were ag~ain equally fuccefsful. Some of our people who went up in the country, gave an account of their Hav- ing feen feveral animals, and a fire about a mile up the river. On Tuefday the gd, the mafter, who had been fent in the pinnace, returned, and reported, that he had found a paflage out to fea, between Ihoals which con- iifted of coral rocks, many whereof were dry at low water. He found fome cockles fo large, that one of them was more than fufficient for two men j like- wife plenty of other fhell-fifh, of which he brought a fupply to the fhip, in his return to which he had landed in a bay where fome Indians were at fupper ; but they inftantly retired, leaving fome fea eggs by a lire for drefling them. This day we made another attempt to float the fhip, and happily fucceeded at high water ; when we found, that by the pofition me had lain in, one of her planks was fprung, fo that it was again ne- ceifary to lay her afhore. An alligator fwam by her fe- veral times at high water. Wednefday the 4th w r as employed in trimming her upon an even keel, warping her over, and laying her down on a fand-bank, on the fouth fide of the river ; and on the next day, the 5th, fhe was again floated, and moored off the beach, in order to receive the ftores on board. This day we croffed the harbour, and found on a fandy beach a great number of fruits, not difcovered before ; among others a cocoa-nut, which Tupia faid had been opened by a crab, and was judged to be what the Dutch call Beurs Krabbe. The vege- table fubftances which Mr. Banks picked up were en- crufted with marine productions, and covered with barnacles, a proof of their having been transplanted, probably from Terra del Efperito Santo. This gentle- man with a party having failed up the river on the 6th, to make an excursion up the country, returned on the No. 7. D d 8th. 2io COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE 8th. Having followed the courfe of the river, they found it at length contracted into a narrow channel, bounded by deep banks, adorned with trees of a moft beautiful appearance, among which was the bark tree. The land was low and covered with grafs, and feemed capable of being cultivated to great advantage. The night, though we had made a fire on the banks of the river, was rendered extremely difagreeable by the ftings of the mufquitos, that caufe an almoft intolera- ble torment. Going in purfuit of game, we faw four animals, two of which were chafed by Mr. Banks's greyhound, but they greatly outftripped him in fpeed, by leaping over the long thick grafs, which incom- moded the dog in running. It was obferved of the animals, that they bounded forward on two legs inftead of running on four. Having returned to the boat weprd- ceeded up the river, till it contracted to a brook of frefh water, but in which the tide rofe confiderably. Having Hopped to pafs the night, with hope of fome reft, we faw a fmoke at a diftance, on which three of us ap- proached it, but the Indians "were gone. We faw the impreffions of feet on the fand, below high-water mark, and found a fire ftill burning in the hollow of an old tree. At a fmall difhince were feveral huts, and we obferved ovens dug in the ground : the remains of a recent meal were like wife apparent. We now retired to our refting-place, and flept on plantain leaves, with a bunch of grafs for our pillows, on the fide of a fand- bank, under the Ihelter of a bulh. The tide favour- ing our return in the morning, we loft no time in get- ting back to the fhip. The mafter, who had been feven leagues at lea, returned foon after Mr. Banks, bringing with him three turtles, which he took with a boat- hook, and which together weighed near eight hundred pounds. He was fent out next morning, and Mr. Banks accompanied him with proper inftruments for catching turtle : but not being fuccefsful, he would not go back that night, fo that Mr. Banks, after collecting fome fliells and marine productions, returned in his own fmall boat. In the morning the fecond lieutenant was fent to bring the mafterback, foon after which four In- dians, ROUND THE WORLD. 211 dians, in a fmall canoe, were within fight. The cap- tain now determined to take no notice of thefe people, as the moft likely way to be noticed by them. This project anfwered; two of them came within mufquet ihot of the veflel, where they converfed very loud ; in, return, the people on board fhouted, and made figns of invitation. The Indians gradually approached, with their lances held up ; not in a menacing manner, but as if they meant to intimate that they were capable of defending themfelves. They came almoft along-fide, when the captain threw them cloth, nails, paper, &c. which did not feem to attrad: their notice, at length one of the failors threw a fmall fim, which fo pleafed them, that they hinted their clefigns of bringing their com- panions, and immediately rowed for the more. In the interim, Tupia and fome of the crew landed on the op- pofite more. The four Indians now came quite along- lide the fhip, and having received farther prefents, landed where Tupia and the failors had gone. They had each two lances, and a flick with which they threw them. Advancing towards the Englifh, Tupia per- fuacled them to lay down their arms, and fit by him, which they readily did. Others of the crew now going on more, the Indians feemed jealous, left they mould get between them and their arms, but care was taken to convince them that no fuch thing was intended, and more trifles were prefentecl to them. The crew ftaid with them till dinner- time, and then made figns of in- vitation for them to go to the fhip and eat ; but this they declined, and retired in their canoe. Thefe men were of the common flature, with very fmall limbs ; their complexion was of a deep chocolate ; their hair black, either lank or curled, but not of the woolly kind ; the breails and upper lip of one of them were painted with ftreaks of white, which he called carbanda, and fome part of their bodies had been painted red. Their teeth were white and even, their eyes bright, and their features rather pleafmg ; their voices mufical, and they repeated feveral Englifh words with great readinefs. The next morning, the vifit of three of thefe In- dians was renewed, and they brought with them a. D d 2 fourth. 212 COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE fourth, whom they called Yaparico, who appeared to be a perfon of fome confequence. The bone of a bird, about fix inches long, was thruft through the gviftle of his nofe; and indeed all the inhabitants of this place had their nofes bored, for the reception of fuch an or- nament. Thefe people being all naked, the captain gave one of them an old ftiirt, which he bound round his head like a turban, inftead of ufingit to cover any part of his body. They brought a fifli to the fhip, which was fuppofed to be in payment for that given them the day before : after ftaying fome time with ap- parent fatisfaclion, they fuddenly leaped into their ca- noe, and rowed off, from a jealoufy of fome of the gentlemen who were examining it. On the 1 2th of July, three Indians vifited Tupia's tent, and after remaining fome time, went for two others, whom they introduced by name. Some fifh was offered them, but they feemed not much to regard it , after eating a little, they gave the remainder to Mr. Banks's dog. Some ribbands which had been given them, to which medals were fufpended round their necks, were fo changed by fmoke, that it was difficult to judge what colour they had been, and the imoke had made their fkins look darker than their na- tural colour, from whence it was thought that they had flept clofe to their fires, as a preventative againft the iling of the mufquitos. Both the ftrangers had bones through their nofes, and a piece of bark tied over their foreheads ; and one of them had an ornament of firings round his arm ; and an elegant necklace made of fhells. Their canoe was about ten feet long, and calculated to hold four perfons, and when it was in mallow water they moved it by the help of poles. Their lances had only a 'fingle point, and fome of them were barbed with fifh-bones. On the i4th Mr. Gore mot one of the moufe-coloured animals above-mentioned. It chanced to be a young one, weighing more than 38 pounds ; but when they are full grown, they are as large as a fheep. The fkin of this beaft which is called kanga- roo, is covered with ftiqrt fur, and is of a dark moufe colour j the head and ears are fome. what like thofe of a hare; ROUND THE WORLD. 212 hare ; this animal was dreffed for dinner, and proved fine eating. The fhip's crew fed on turtle almoft every d:iy, which were finer than thofe eaten in England, owing to their being killed before their natural fat was waited, and their juices changed. On the iyth, Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander went with the captain into the woods, and faw four Indians in a canoe, who went on fhore, and walked up without figa of fear. They accepted fome beads, and departed, intimating that they did not chufe to be followed. The natives being now become familiar with the fhip's crew, one of them wasdefired to throw his lance, which he did with fuch dexterity and force, that though it was not above four feet from the ground at the higheft, it penetrated deeply into a tree at the diftance of fifty yards. The natives now came on board the fhip, and were well pleafed with their entertainment. On the i pth, we faw feveral of the women, who, as well as the men, were quite naked. We were this day vifited by ten Indians, who feemed refolved to have one of the turtles that was on board, which they re- peatedly made figns for, and being as repeatedly re- fufed, they exprefTed the utmoft rage and relentment, one of them in particular, having received a denial from Mr. Banks, he ftamped, and pufhed him away in a moft violent manner. At length they laid hands on two of the turtles, and drew them to the fide of the fhip where the canoe lay, but the failors took them away. They made feveral fimilar attempts, but being equally unfuccefsful, they leaped fuddenly into their canoe, and rowed oft. At this inilant the captain, with Mr Banks, and five or fix of the feamen, went on fhore, where they arrived before the Indians, and where many of the crew were already employed. As foon as the Indians landed, one of them fnatched a fire brand from under a pitch-kettle, and running to the windward of what effects were left on fhore, fet fine to the dry grafs, which burned rapidly, fcorched a pig to death, burned part of the fmith's forge, and would have deftroyed a tent of Mr. Banks, but that fome peo- ple came from the dip juft in time to get it out of the way 214 COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE way of the flames. In the mean while the Indians went to a place where the fifhing-nets lay, and a quan- tity of linen was kid out to dry, and there again fet fire to the grafs, in fpite of all perfuafion, and even of threats. A mufquet loaded with fmali as fired, and one of them being wounded, they ran away, and this fecond fire was extinguilhed : but the other burned far into the woods. The Indians itill continued in fight, a mufquet charged with ball was fired, the report only of which fent them out of fight ; but their voices being heard in the woods, the captain with a few people went to meet them. Both parties ilopped when in fight of each other; at which time an old Indian advanced before the reft a little way, but foon halted, and after having fpoke fome words, which we could not underftand, he retreated to his companions, and they all retired flowly in a body. Having found means to feize fome of their darts, we continued following them about a mile, and then fat down upon fome rocks, the Indians fitting down alfo about an hundred yards from us. The old man again came forward, having a lance without a point in his hand ; he flopped feveral times at dif- .ferent diftances, and fpoke, whereupon the captain made figns of friendfhip, which they anfwered. The old man now returned, and fpoke aloud to his compa- nions, who placed their lances againft a tree, and came forward in a friendly manner. When they came up to us, we returned the darts we had taken, and we per- ceived with great fatisfaction, that this rendered the re- conciliation complete. In this party were four perfons whom we had not feen before, who, as ufual, were in- troduced to us by name, but the man who had been wounded in the attempt to burn our nets, was not a- mong them. Having received from us fome trinkets, they walked amicably towards the coaft, intimating by figns, that they would not fire the grafs again. When we came oppofite the (hip they fat down, but we could not prevail with them to go on board. They accepted a few mufquet balls, the ufe and effect of which the captain endeavoured to explain. We then left them, 3 and ROUND THE WORLD. and when arrived at the (hip, we faw the woods burning at the diftance of two miles. We had no conception of the fury with which grafs would burn in this hot cli- mate, nor of the difficulty of extinguifliing it ; but we determined, that if it mould ever again be neceflary for us to pitch our tents in fuch a fituation, our firlt work mould be to clear the ground round us. Friday the 2oth, our {hip being ready for fea, the matter was fent in fearch of a paffage to the north- ward, but could not find any; while the captain found- ed and buoyed the bar. This day we faw not any In- dians ; but the hills for many miles were on fire, which at night made an appearance truly fublime. On the 22nd, we killed a turtle, through both moulders of which ftuck a wooden harpoon, near fifteen inches long, bearded at the end, and about the thicknefs of a man's finger, refembling fuch as we had feen among the na- tives. The turtle appeared to have been ftruck a con- fid erable time, for the wound was perfectly healed. On the 24th, one of the failors, who with others had been fent to gather kale, having ftrayed from the reft, fell in with four Indians at dinner. He was at firrt much alarmed, but had prudence enough to conceal his apprehenfions ; and fitting down by them gave them- his knife, which having examined, they returned. He would then have left them ; but they feemed difpofed to detain him, till, by feeling his hands and face, they were convinced he was made of flefh and blood like themfelves. They treated him with great civility, and having kept him about half an hour, they made figns that he might depart. When he left' them, not taking the direct way to the fhip, they came from the fire and mewed him the neareft way ; from whence we conclud- ed, that they well knew from whence he came. We may here obferve, that the language of thefe people feemed to us more harfh than that of the iflanders in the South-Sea. They were continually repeating the word chercau, a term as we imagined of admiration. They alfo cried out, when they faw any thing new, cher, tut, tut, tut, tut ! which probably was a fimilar expreflion. Mr. Banks having gone on more in fearch of plants, found 216 COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE found the doth which had been diftributed among the natives, lying in a heap, as ufelefs lumber. Indeed they feemed to fet very little value upon any thing ^we had except our turtle, a commodity we were leaft inclined and able to fpare. Tuefday the 24th, Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander re- turning from the woods, through a deep valley, found lying on the ground feveral marking nuts, theAnacar- dmm orientale: but they fought in vain for the tree that bore them. On the 26th, as Mr. Banks was again fearching the country to enrich his natural hiftory, he took an animal of the opoffurn kind, with two young ones. On the 27th, Mr. Gore mot a Kanguroo, which weighed eighty- four pounds, though not at its full growth. When drefTed on the 28th, we found it had a much worfe flavour than that we had eaten before. Sunday the 29th, \ve got the anchor up, and made all ready to put to fea. A boat was fent out to afcertain what water was upon the bar; when returned, the officer reported, that there was only thirteen feet, which was fix inches lefs than the ihip drew. We therefore this day gave up all hopes of failing. Monday the ^oth, we had frefh gales with hazy weather and rain, till Tuefday the gift, at two in the morning, when the weather be- came more moderate. During all this time the pin- nace and yawl continued to ply the net and hook with tolerable good fuccefs, bringing in at different times a turtle, and from two to three hundred weight of fim, On Wednefday the id of Augufl, the pumps were examined by the carpenter, who found them all in a ilate of decay, and fome quite rotten, owing, as he faid, to the fap having been left in the wood : but as the fhip* admitted only an inch of water in an hour, we hoped me was ftout enough, and trufted to her foundnefs. On Saturday the 4th, at feven o'clock in the morning, we once more got under fail, and put to fea. We {rood off E. by N. with the pinnace a-head to keep founding. About noon we came to an anchor, when the harbour from whence we had failed bore S. 70 W. diftant about five leagues. The captain here named the northermoft point ROUND THE WORLD. 217 point of land in fight Cape Bedford, and the harbour \ve had quitted Endeavour River* Our latitude by ob* fervation was now 15 deg. 32 min. S. Endeavour Ri- ver is only a fmall bar harbour, or creek, which runs in a winding channel three or four leagues inland. The depth of water for Ihipping is not more than a mile within the bar, and only on the north-fide. At the new and full of the moon, it is high-water between nine and ten o'clock. It mutt al-fo be remembered, that this part of the coaft is fo barricaded with fhoals, as to make the harbour very difficult of accefs : the fafeft approach is fi om the fouthward, keeping the main land clofe upon the board all the way. Over the fouth point is fome high land, but the north point is formed by a low iandy beach. The proviiions we procured in this har- bour confided of turtle, oyfters of different forts, cavalhe or fcomber, fiat fifli, fkate or ray fifh, purflain, wild beans, and cabbage-palms. Of quadrupedes, there are goats, wolves, pole-cats, a fpotted animal of the viverra kind, andfcveral kinds of ferpents, fome of which only arc venomous. Dogs are the only tame animals. The land fowls are kites, crows, hawks, loriquets, cockatoos,, parrots, pigeons, and fmall birds of various forts, the names of which we could not learn. The water fowls are wild geefe, curlieus, hens, whittling ducks that perch on trees, and fome few others. The foil of the hills, though ftoney, produces coarfe grafs betides wood, that of the valleys is in general well cloathed, and has the appearance of fertility. The trees here are of va- rious forts, of which the gum trees are the moft com- mon. On each lids of the river ar-j mangroves, which in fome parts extend a mile within the coaft. The country is well watered, and ant-hills are every where in great number:!. On Saturday the 4th, Capt. Cook went up to the maft-head to look at fome dangerous moa's, feveral of xvhich he law above the water. Tlib day fuch a quan- tity of fi(h was caught, as allowed a dividend of two pounds to each man. During the fix following days \vc attempted to fail between the ihoals and breakers, by which we were every way fuiTOumlrd. On the No. 7. 'Ee 218 COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE we were between a head land and three iilands, which had been difcovered the preceding day. We now entertained hopes of being out of danger ; but this not proving to be the cafe, \ve called the head land Cape Flattery. Some land was now difcovered, and was ge- nerally taken for the main ; but in the captain's opinion a clufter of iilands. Upon this diverfity of fentiments it was refolved to bring the fhip to an anchor. This done, the captain landed, and from a high point took a fnrvey of thefea-coaft, by which he was confirmed in his conjecture. On the point where he flood were feen the prints of human feet, in white fand of an exquifite fmenefs; and the pi ace was named Point Lookout. To the northward of this the court appeared to be Ihoal and flat, for a confiderablediflance, which did not en- courage our hope, that the channel we had hitherto found in with the land would continue. On Saturday the nth, early in the morning, Mr. Banks and Capt. Cook went to viiit the largeft of the three iflands, and having gained the fummit of the higher! hill, they beheld a reef of rocks, whereon the lea broke in a frightful manner ; but the hazy weather preventing a perfect view, they lodged under a bufh during the night, and next day feeing what had the appearance of a channel between the reefs, one of the mates on the 12th, was fent out in the pinnace to ex- amine it ; and at noon returned, having found between fifteen and twenty-eight fathom of water ; but it blew fo hard, that the mate did not dare to venture into one 'of the channels, which he faid appeared to be very nar- row ; but the captain judged he had feen them to a dif- advantage. While bufy in his furvey, Mr. Banks was attentive to his favourite purfuit, and collected many plants he had not before feen. This ifland, vifible at t \vclve leagues diftance, and in general barren, we found to be about eight leagues in circumference. There arc foinc fandy bays and low-land on the N. W. fide, \vhich is covered with long grafs, and trees of the fame kind with thofe on the main ; lizards of a very large fize alfo abounded, fome of which we took. We found alfo freih water in two places ; one running ftream, elofe to the ROUND THE WORLD. 219 the fca, was a little brackifh ; the other \vas a flandino- ^& pool perfectly fweet. We were furprized to fee, that, notwithstanding the diftance of this ifland from the main, it was fometimes vilited by the Indians from thence ; as was plain from feven or eight frames of their huts which we found. All thefe were built on eminences, and from their fituation, we judged, that the \veather here, at certain feafons, is invariably calm and mild. On our return to thefhip, the captain named this place the Lizard Ifland, on account of our hav- ing feen no other animals but lizards. When return- ing, we landed on alow fandy ifland, upon which were birds of various kinds. We tookaneftof young eagles, and therefore called the place Eagle Ifland. We found alfo a neft of fome other bird, of a moft enormous fize: it was made with fticks upon the ground, and was not lefs than fix and twenty feet in circumference, and two feet eight inches high. We perceived that this place alfo had been vifited by the Indians. During our- abfence from the fliip, the mafter had landed on feveral low iflands, where he had feen great heaps of turtle fhells, and found the fins of them, which the Indians had left hanging on the trees, fo frclh, that they were drefled and eaten by the boat's crew. On Sunday the i2th, the officers held a confutation, and we were unanimous in opinion, that it would be beft to quit the coaft altogether, till we could approach it with lefs danger ; in confequence of which concur- rent opinion, we failed on Monday the ijth, and got through one of the channels in the reef, happy at find- ing ourfelves once more in the open fe.i, after having been furrounded by dreadful fhouls and rocks for near three months. We had now failed above 1000 miles, during which run we had been obliged to keep founding, without the intermiflion of a fingle minute ; a circum (lance which, it is fuppoied, never happened to any fhip but the Endeavour. The paflage through which we paflcd into the open fc.i beyond the reef, is in latitude 14 dcg. 32 min. S. uncl may always be known by the three high iflands witiiin it, which Capt. Copk called the Iflands of Direction, becaufc by thele E e 2 a ftrangor 220 COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE a ftranger may find a fafe channel through the reef quite to the main. The channel lies from Lizard liland N. E. half N, diftant three leagues, and is about one third of a mile broad, and much the fame in length. The iflands abound in turtle and other lifh, and on the beach we found bamboos, cocoa-nuts, pumice-ftone, and the feeds of planes, fuppofed to be wafted thither by the trade winds, as the plants themfelves are no: natives of the country. OnTuefday the 14^, we anchored, and by obferva- tion, our latitude was 13 cleg. 46 min. S. and at this time we had no land in fight. On the 1 5th we fleered a wefterly courfe, in order to get fight of land, that we might not overfhoot the pafTage, if a pafTage there was between this land and New Guinea. Early in the after- noon we had fight of land, which had the appearance of hilly iflands, but it was judged to be part of the main, and we faw breakers between the veflel and the land, in which jhere was an opening; to get clear, -\ve fet all our fails, and ftood to the northward :ill midnight, ami then went on a fouthward tack for about two miles, when the breeze died away to a dead calm. When, day-light came on we law a dreadful furf break at a vail height, within a mile of the fhip, towards which the rolling waves carried her with great rapidity. Thus diftreiled, the boats were fent a-head to tow, and the head of the veffel was brought about, but not till me was within a hundred yards of the rock, between which and her there was nothing left but the chafm, and which had rifen and broke to a wonderful height on the rock ^ but in the moment we expected infbnt dcilruclion, a breeze, hardly difcernablc, aided the boats in getting the veilel in an oblique direction from the rock. The hopes, however, afforded by this providential circum- ftance, were deftroycd by a perfect calm, which iiicceed- ed in a few minutes ; yet the breeze once more return- ed, before we had lofi the little ground v.hich had been : ieih<-, butth-.it there; \^s fmopth water on the other ROUND THE WORLD. 221 other fide of the rocks. Animated by the defire of preferring life, \venow attempted topafs the opening; but this was impoflible , for it having become high- water in the interim, the ebb tide ruihed through it with amazing impetuofity, carrying the fliip about a quarter of a mile from the reef, and fhe foon reached the diftance of near two miles, by the help of the boats. When the ebb tide was fpent, the tide of flood ao-ain drove the veflel very near the rocks, fo that our prof pcct of deftruclion was renewed, when we difcovered another opening, and a light breeze fpringing up, we entered it, and were driven through it, with a rapidity that pre- vented the fliip from ftriking againft either lidc of the channel. The fliip now came to an anchor, and our crew were grateful for having regained a ftation, which they had been very lately mod anxious to quit. The name of Providence Channel M'as given to the opening jthrough which the fhip had thus efcapcd the moft im- minent dangers. A high promontory on the main land in fight, was denominated Cape Weymouth, and a bay near it Weymouth Bay. This day the boats went out to fifh, and met with great fuccefs, particularly in catching cockles, fome of which were of fuch an ama- zing fize, as to require the ftrength of two men to move them. Mr. Banks likewife fuccecded in his fearch for rare fhells, and different kinds of coral. On the 1 8th, we difcovered fevertilfmall i (lands, whicfy were called Forbes's Iflands, and had a fight of a high point of land on the main, which was named the Bolt Head. On the ipth, we difcovered fcvcral other i'mall jflands, the land of which was low, barren, and fandy. A point was feen, and called Cape Grenville, and a bay which took the name of Temple Bay. In the afternoon many other iflands were fcen, which were denominated Bird Iflcs, from their being frequented by numerous flocks of birds. On the soth, many more fmall ifunds were fcen, on one of which were a few trees, and fcveral Indian huts, fuppofecl to have been eretlcd by the natives of the main land, as temporary habitations during their vifit to thefe iflands. On the 2 ift we failed hiough a channel, in which was a number of fhoala ; and 222 COOK'S FIRST and gave the name of York Cape to a point of the main land which forms the fide of the channel. A large bay is formed to the fouth of the cape, which was called Newcaftle Bay, and in which are feveral little iflands ; on the north-fide of the cape the land is rather mountainous, but the low parts of the country abound with trees; the iflands difcovered in the morning of this day, were called York Ifles. In the afternoon we an- chored between fome iflands, and obferved, that the channel now began to grow wider ; we perceived two diftant points, between which no land could be feen, fo> that the hope of having at length explored a paflage into the Indian Sea, began to animate every brcaft ; but, to bring the matter to a certainty, the captain took a party, and being accompanied by Meffrs. Solander and Banks, they landed on an ifland, on which they had feen a number of Indians, ten of whom were on a hill, one of them carrying a bow and a bundle of arrows, the reft armed with lances ; and round the necks of two of them hung firings of mother of pearl. Three of thefe Indians ftood on more, as if to oppofe the landing of the boat, but they retired before it reached the beach. The captain and his company now afcended a hill, from whence they had a view of near forty miles, in which fpace there was nothing that threatened to oppofe their paflage, fo that the certainty of a channel feemed to be almoft indubitable. Previous to their leaving the ifland, Capt. Cook difplayed the Englifh colours, and tookpof- feflion of all the eaftern coaft of the country, from the 3 8th deg. of S. latitude to the prefcnt fpot, by the name of New South Wales, for his fovereign the King of Great Britain: and three volleys of fmall arms being fired, and anfwered by an equal number from the En- deavour, the place received the name of Pofleflion Ifland. The next morning we fa\v three naked women collecting fliell-fifh on the beach ; and weighing anchor, gave the name of Cape Cornwall to the extreme point of the largeft ifland on the north-weft fide of the paf- fage : fomc low iflands near the middle of the channel receiving the name of Waliis's Iflc ; fcon after which the fhip came to an anchor, and the long-boat was fent out HOUND THE WORLD. 223 out to found. Towards evening we failed again, and the captain landed with Mr. Banks, on a fmall ifland which was frequented by immenfe numbers of birds, die majority of which being boobies, the place received the name of Booby Ifland, We were now advanced to the northern extremity of New Holland, and had the fatisfaclion of viewing the open fea to the weftward. The N. E. entrance of the paflage is formed by the main land of New Holland, and by a number of iflands, which took the name of the Prince of Wales's Iflands, and which Capt. Cook imagines may reach to New Guinea ; thefe iflands abound with trees and grajfs, and were tnown to be inhabited, from the fmoke that was feen afcencling in many places. To the paffage we had failed through, Capt. Cook gave the came of Endeavour Streights. New South Wales is a much larger country than any hitherto known, and not deemed a continent, being larger than all Europe, which is proved by the Endeavour's having coafted more than 2000 miles, even if her tracl: were re- duced to a ftrait.line. Northward of the latitude of 33 deg. the country is hilly, yet not mountainous ; but to thefouthward of that latitude, it is moftly low and even ground. The hills in general are diverfified by lawns and woods, and many of the valleys abound with her* bage, though, on the whole, it cannot be deemed a fertile country. To the northward the grafs is not fa rich, nor the trees fo high as in the fouthern parts, and almoft every where, even the largeft trees grow at a diftance of not lefs than thirteen yards afunder. In all thefe places where the land forms a bay, the fliore is covered with mangroves, that grow about a mile inland, in a fwampy ground, which the fpring tides always overflow ; in fome parts there are bogs, covered with thick grafs, and plenty of under-wood in the valleys ; the foil in general fccms unfit for cultivation, though there arc many fpots where the arts of tillage might be attended with fuccefs. There are fcvcral fait creeks, running in many directions through the country, where there are alfo brooks of frefli water, but there are no ri- vers of anyconfiderablc extent; yet it fccmcd to be well watered, 224 COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE watered, as the time when the (hip was on the coaft was reckoned the 'dried feafon of tlie year. The gum- 'tree yields a refin like the dragons blood. Here are three kinds of palm-trees, two of which are found only in the northern diftrict. Nuts fomc what refemb- ling chefnuts are produced by one of thefe, which were fuppofed to be eatable, yet fome of the feamen having made free with them were taken very ill ^ two of whom died within a week, and it was not without difficulty -that the third was recovered. The fccond fort of palm is much like the Weft Indian cabbage-tree, which yields a cabbage of an agreeable tafte. The third fort abounds in the fouthern part, and produces a (mall cab- bage of a very agreeable fiavour, with many nuts, which furnifh food for hogs. There is likewife a tree on which grows a purple apple that taftes like a damofcene, as we have before obfervcd. B elides thefe there is a fig-tree, producing figs, but not of the fined fort, and they have another which bears a fort of plumb that is flat on the fides like a cheefe. A plant was found here, the leaves of which were like thofe of the bulrufh ; it yields a bright yellow refin, that refembles gumbouge, but does not ftain it had a very agreeable fmell. We found two forts of yams, the one round and covered with ftringy fibres, the other in fhape like a radiih ; both of which are of a pleafant tafte. A fruit of a difagreeable flavour was found, in mape refembling a pine-apple $ and another that was much like a cherry, but had a foft. kernel. The country produces purflain and wild parfly. We faw here, befides the beaft already mentioned, one that was called a quail, the belly of this animal was quite white, its back WAS brown with white fpots ; and it was like a pole-cat. Vail: numbers of beautiful pi- geons were obferved, and the feamen (hot many of them, allb eagles, hawks, cranes, herons, buftards, crows, par- rots, parroquets, cockatoos, and fome other birds of fine plumage, befides quails and doves. In this country there are but few infects, and the ants arul mufquitos arc the chief among them. There are fdntkitidsof the former which dele; ve particular notice. The tlrft of thefe arc entirely preen, and live- on trees, 2 -^ It ere ROUND THE W o R L D. 2 25. where they build their nefts in a very curious manner, bending down the leaves, and gluing them together with an animal juice, fuppofed to proceed from their own bodies. While feveral of thefe animals were bufied in this employ, thoufands were joined to keep the leaf iu its proper fltuation, which, when they were difturbedin their work, flew back with a force that any one would have imagined to be fuperior to their united ftrength; at the fame time they avenged themfelves by feverely flinging their diftuibers. The fecond fpecies of ants here are black, and live in the infide of the branches, after they have worked out the pith. The third fort lodged themfelves in the root of a plant that twines round the trunks of other trees. This they made hol- low, and cut into a great number of paflages that ran acrofs each other, yet there was no appearance of the plants having been injured. They are not above half the fize of the red ants of this country. As to the fourth fort they are like the Eaft-Indian white ants, and had one fort of nefts as big as a half-peck loaf which hung from the boughs of trees, and were compofed of feveral minute parts of vegetables, which appeared tobeftuck together by the glutinous juice before mentioned. There was a communication between the cells, and pallages to other nefts upon the fame tree ; they had alfo a hollow covered paflage to another neft on the ground, at the root of a different tree. The height of the ground-neft was found to be about fix feet, and the breadth nearly the fame : and the outfide was plaif- tcred with clay almoft two inches thick. Thefe had a fub- terraneous paflage leading to the roots of the, trees near which they were conftructed, from whence thefe crea- tures afcended the trunk and branches by covered ways, calculated for the purpofe. It was concluded, that the ants refoi tecl to thefe ground-netts during the wet fca- fon, as they were water proof. Variety of fifli is fupplied by the feas in thefe parts, among which are mullets, cray-fifh and crabs. Upon the flioals are found the rock, pearl, and other oyfters, as well as the moft delicate green turtle, bcficles thofe enormous cockles which have been already mentioned. Mo. 7. F f Alligators 226 COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE Alligators are found in the rivers and fait creeks. The country does not appear to be inhabited by numbers any way proportioned to its great extent ; not above thirty being ever feen together but once, which was when thofe of both fexes, and all ages got together on a rock off Botany Bay, to view the {hip. None of their vil- lages confided of more huts than would afford fhelter for fourteen or fifteen men, and thefe were the largeft numbers that were affembled with a view to attack us. No part of the country appeared to be cultivated, whence there mufl neceffanly be fewer inhabitants on the inland parts than on the fea-coaft. The men are well made, of the middle fize, and active, in a high degree ; but their voices are foft, even to effeminacy. Their colour is chocolate ; but they were fo covered with dirt, as to look almoft as black as negroes. Their hair is naturally long and black, but they commonly cropped it more ; in fome few inftances it is flightly curled, but in common quite ftrait ; it is always matted with dirt, yet wholly free from lice , their beards are thick and buflry, but kept fhort by fingeing. The wo- men were feen only at a diftance, as the men con- itantly left them behind when they croffed the river. The chief ornament of thefe people is the bone that is thruft through the nofe, which the failors whimiically called their fprit-fail yard ; but belides this they wore necklaces formed of mells, a fmall cord tied twice or thrice round the arm between the elbow and moulder, and a fcring of plaited human hair round the waift. Some few of them had an ornament of {hells hanging acrofs the breaft. Beiides thefe ornaments they painted their bodies and limbs white and red, in ftripes of dif- ferent dimenfions ; and they had a circle of white round each eye, and fpots of it on the face. Their C3.rs were bored, but they did not wear ear-rings. They accepted whatever was given them, but feemed to have no idea of making an adequate return ; and they would not part with their ornaments for any thing that was offered in exchange. Their bodies were marked with fears, which they fignified were in remembrance of the deceaied. Their huts were built with fmall rods, the ROUND THE WORLD. 227 the two ends of which were fixed into the ground, fo as to form the figure of an oven ; they are "covered with pieces of bark and palm-leaves. The door of this building, which is only high enough to fit upright in, is oppofite to the fire-places. They fleep with their heels turned up toward their heads ; and even in this pofture the hut will not hold more than four people. In the northern parts, where the weather was warmer, one fide of the houfes was left open, and the other op- pofed to whatever wind might blow at the time there ; huts were only built for temporary ufe, and left behind when they removed to other parts of the country ; but if their ftay was only for a night or two, they had no other protection from the weather than what the grafs and bufhes afforded. While the huts on the main land were turned from the wind, thofe on the iflands were towards it : a kind of proof that they vifit the iflands in fine weather, and enjoy the refreshing breeze while they flept. Thefe huts are furnifhed with a kind of bucket for fetching water, made of an oblong piece of bark tied up at each end with the twig of a tree ; and this is the only furniture of the houfe. On their backs they have a kind of bag, of the fize and form of a cabbage-net, in which they carry their fifli-hooks and lines, of the fhells of which they make thefe hooks ; the ornaments which they wear confift of fome points of darts, and two or three bits of paint ; and in this narrow compafs lie all their riches. They fee.l on the kanguroo, and feveral kinds of birds when they can catch them ; they likewife eat yams, and various kinds of fruit ; but the principal article of their cxiftence is fifti. They were frequently obferved with the leaves of a tree in their mouths, but whether it had the qua- lities of either tobacco or beetle could not be known; but it was obferved not to difcolour the teeth or lips. From the notches that were fcen in a great number of trees, for the purpofe of climbing them, it \v.\s imagined that their method of taking the k.inguroo, was' by ftriking it with their lances as it palled under the tree. In thefe likewife, it is probable, that they took birds, while they were roofting, as they iecmcd too F f 2 ihy 28 COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE fhy to be otherwife catchcd. Their method of pro- ducing fire, and extending the flames of it, is very fin- gular : having wrought one end of a flick into an ob- tufe point, they place this point upon a piece of dry wood, and turning the upright ftick very faft back* ward and forward between their hands, fire is foon pro- duced, nor is it increafed with lefs celerity. One of the natives was frequently obferved to run along the fea coaft, leaving fire in various places. The method taken to do this was as follows : before he fet off, he wrapped up a little fpark of fire in dry grafs, and the quicknefs of his motion foon fanning it into a flame, he then placed it on the ground, and putting a fpark of it in another bit of grafs ran on again, and increafed the number of his fires at pleafure. Thefe fires were fuppofecl to be intended for the taking of the kangu- roo, as that animal was fo very fhy of fire, that when purfued by the dogs, it would not crofs places which had been newly burnt, even when the fire was extin- guifhed. The natives of New South Wales makeufe of fpears or lances, but thefe are very differently conflructed ; thofc that were feen in the fouthcrn parts of the coun- try had four prongs, pointed with bone, and barbed, and the points were rubbed with a kind of wax, the fmoothnefs of which made an eafier paffage into what was ftruck by them. On the contrary, the lances in the northern parts have only one point ; the {hafts of them are of different lengths, from eight to fourteen feet 1 , are made of the (talk of a plant not unlike abul- rufh, and confifts of fevcral joints let into each other, aud tied together. The points of thefe lances are fome- times made of fifh-bone, and fometimes of a hard heavy wood ; they are barbed with other pieces of wood or ftone, fr> that when they have entered any depth in tke body, they cannot be drawn out without tearing the ileih in a mocking manner, or leaving fplinters behind them. \Vhcn the natives intend to wound at a confi- dciMble diftance, they difcharge this intfrumcnt with a throwing frick, but if the object be near them, it is thrown from the hand only. The thro wing-flick is a 4 piece ROUND THE WORLD. 229 piece of fmooth, hard, red wood, half an inch thick, two inches broad, and about three feet in length, hav- ing a crofs piece near four inches long at one end, aod a fmall knob at the other. A fmall hollow is made in the fhaft of the lance, near the point, and in this hol- low the knob is received, but, on being forced forward, it will eafily flip from it. The lance being placed on this throwing-ftick, the Indian holds it over his ihoulder, makes it, and then throws both lance and ilick with his utmoft power * but as the crofs-piece ftrikes the moulder the fudden jerk ftops the iHck, while the lance is driven forward with amazing rapi- dity, and is generally fo well aimed, that a mark ut the clifhnce of fifty yards is more certainly ftruck with it than by a bullet from a gnn. Thefe people make life of fhields made of the bark of trees, of about eigh- teen inches broad, and three feet long. Many trees were feen from whence the bark had been taken, and others on which the fhields were cut out but not taken away. In the northern parts of this country, the ca- noes are formed by hollowing the trunk of a tree, and it was conjectured", that this operation muft have been performed by fire, as the natives did not appear to have any inftruments proper for that purpofe. The canoes are in length about fourteen feet, and fo narrow, that they would be frequently overfet, but that they are pro- vided with an out-rigger. The natives row them with paddles, ufing both hands in that employment. The canoes in the fouthern parts are formed only of a piece of b.ark four yards long, fattened together at each end, and the middle kept open by pieces of wood, pafling from fide to fide. lu deep "water thefe are rowed by paddles, of about a foot and a half in length, the rower having one in eiich hand, but in (hallow water they are puflicd forward by means of a long flick. ^ A* thefe veffcls are extremely' light, and draw very little water, the Indians run them on the mud banks infcnrch of fhcll-iifh, fome of which, it is probable, they broil and eat as foon as they are taken, as it was remarked that in the centre of thcfc vcflcls there was ufually a fire burning on a quantity of lea- weed. The natives have COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE have no tools but a wooden mallet, a kind of wedge, and an adze, made of ftone, with fome pieces of coral and fliells, which may pofiibly be applied to the pur- pofes of cutting. They polifli the points of their lances, and their throwing-fticks, with the leaves of a tree that appears to be the wild fig, which bites with a fliarpnefs, almoft equal to that of a rafp. Four peo- ple are the greateft number that a canoe will contain : and when more than this number were to pafs a river, three were landed out of the firft freight, and one man went back for the reft. The following may 'guage, NEW HOLLAND. Aco, Aibudje, Bam ma, Bonjoo, Boota, Chucula, Cotta, Coyor, Doomboo,- Dunjo, Eboorbalga, Edamal, Eiyamoae, Eya & ba, Galan, Garbar, Gippa, Kere, Koike, Mailelel, Maianang, Marra, Mangal, Meul, Melca, Mingoore, ferve as a fpecimen of their lan- ENGLISH. The arms. To yawn. A man. The nofe. To eat. To drink. A dog. The The neck. A father. The thumbs. Thefeet. The crown of the head. That or this. The fun. The eye-bwws. The belly. Thejky. The nails. Tofwim. Fire. To go. The hands-. The eyes. The cars. TG dante. ROUND THE'WORLD. 231 NEW HOLLAND. Mocoo, Morcol, Moree, Mootjel, Mulere, Nakil, Peegoorga, Peete, Poapoa, Pongo, Poona, Poorai, Poteea, Putai Tabugga, Tacal, Te, Tennapuke, Tocaya, Tumurre, Unjar, Wageegee, Walloo, Waller, Walboolbool, Wonananio, Wulgar, Yembe, Zoocoo, ENGLISH. The back. The throat. The hear of the bead. A woman. The teeth. The little finger. The legs. The forehead. Earth. The knees. Toflecp. Water. Fijh. A turtle. Afly. The chin. A) or the. The hole made in the nojlrik for the bone ornament. Sit down. A fun. The tongue. The head. The temples. The beard. A butterfly. Afleep. The clouds. The lips. Wood. Though it appeared evident, that the natives of thefe iflands waged war with each other, by the wea- pons they poffefled, yet not a wound received from their enemies appeared on any part of their bodies. CHAP. 232 COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE CHAP. X. The Endeavour continues her Vcy age from South Wales t9 New Guinea An Account of incidents upon landing there She proceeds from New Guinea to the I/land of Savu Trap/actions at this Jflc Its Produce and Inha- bitants ', icit/j a Specimen of their Language linn from Savu to Batavia Tranjafljons ivhil-e the Endeavonr was refitting at this Place. ON the 2 3d of Auguft, 1770, in the afternoon, after leaving Booby Jfland, we had light airs till five o'clock, when it fell calm, and we came to an anchor in eight fathom water, with a foft fandy bottom. OH Fridiy, the 24th, loon after the anchor was weighed, we got under fail, fteering N. W. and in a few hours one of the boats a-head made the iignal for ihoal-wa- ter. We inftandy brought the (hip to, with all her fails (landing, and a furvey being taken of the fea around her, it was found that me had met with ano- ther narrow efcape, as fhe was almoft encompafled with ihoals, and was likewife fo fituated between them, that fhe muft have ftruck before the boat's crew had made the iignal, if (he had been half the length of a cable on either fide. In the afternoon we made fail with the ebb tide, and got out of danger before fun-fet, when we brought to for the night. On Sunday, the 26th, it vras the Captain's inten- tion to fteer N. W. bat having met with thofe ihoals, we altered our courfe, and foon got into deep water. On the 27th we purfued our voyage, fhortening fail at night, and tacking till day-break of the 2 8th, when we fleered due N. in fearch of New Guinea. At this time our latitude by obfervation was 8 deg. 52 rain. S. We hc?re oblerved many parts of the fea co- vered with a kind of brown fcuin, to which our fai- lors gave the name of fpawn. It is formed of an in- credible numb>; of minute particles, each of which, jvhen iecn through the microfcope, was found to con- fill oi i conficlcrable number of tubes, and thefe tubes wire ROUND THE WORLD. 233 >vcrc flilxHvided into little cells. The fcum being burnt, and yielding no fmell like what is produced by nnimul fubitances, we concluded it was of the vege- table kind. This has often been feen on the coaft of Brazil, and generr.il y makes its appearance near the land. A bird called the Noddy was found this even- ing among the rigging of thefliip. Land having been this day difcovered from the maft head, we flood off and on all night, and at day-break we failed towards it with a brilk gale. Between fix and feven in the morn- ing we had fight of a fmall low ifland, at about a league from the main, in latitude 80 cleg. 13 min.' S. and in longitude 221 deg. 25 min. W. and it has already been diftinguilhed by the names of Bartholomew and Whermoyfen. It appeared a very level ifland, clothed with trees, among which is the cocoa-nut ; and we judged it to be inhabited by the fmoke of the fires which were feen in different parts of it. The boats were now fent out to found, as the water was (hallow t but as the fliip, in failing two leagues, had found no increafe in its depth, fignals were made for the boats to return on board. We then ftood out to fea till mid- night, tacked j and ftood in for land till the morning. On Thurfday, the goth, when about four leagues diftant, we had fight of it, and its appearance was ftil! flat and woody. Abundance of the brown fcura was ftill feen on the furface of the fea, and thefailors, convinced that it was not fpawn, gave it the whimfical name of fea-faw-duft. We now held a northward courfe, fcarcely within fight of land, and as the wa- ter was but juft deep enough to navigate the veflel, many unfucceisful attempts were made to bring her near enough to get on fhore : it was therefore deter- mined to land in one of the boats, while the fhipkept plying off and on. In confequence of this refolution, On Monday, Sept. the 3 d, Capt. Cook, Mr. Banks, and Dr. SoJancler, attended by the boat's crew, and Mr. Banks's fervant, fet off from the {hip in the pinnace, being in all twelve perfons well armed. We rowed di- rectly to the {hoi e, but when come within two hundred yards 9f it, we found the water fo {hallow, that we No. 8. G g 34 COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE were obliged to leave the boat, in the care of two of the failors, and wade to land. We had no fooner reached the fhore, than we law feveral prints of human feet on the fand, below high-water mark, from whence it was evident, that the natives had been there. We concluded they could be at no great diflance, and as a thick wood came down within a hundred yards of the water, \ve proceeded with caution, that our retreat to the boat might not be cut off. We walked by the fide of the wood, and came to a grove of cocoa-nut trees, not far from which was a feed, or hut, which had been covered with leaves, and near it lay a number of frefh fhells of the fruit. At a fnrall diitance of from this place we found plantains ; and having now advanced about a quarter of a mile from the boat, three Indians rufhcd out of the wood with a hideous fliout, at about the dift mce of a hundred yards ; and as they ran to- wards us, the forcmoft threw fbmething out of his Jiand, which flew on one iide of him, and burnt ex- actly like gun-powder, but made no report ; and the other two threw their lances at us. No time was to be loft ; we difcharged our pieces, loaded with fmall ihot only; which we imagine they did not feel ; for, with- out retreating, they caft a third dart : we therefore now loaded with ball, and fired a fecond time. It is pro- bable tome of them were wounded, as they all took to their heels with great agility. We improved this in- terval, in which the deftruclion of the natives was no longer neceffary to our own defence, and with all ex- pedition returned to our boat. In the way we per- ceived lignals on board, that more Indians were coming down in a body ; and before we got into the water, we perceived feveral of them coming round a point at the diftance of about five hundred yards. When they faw us they halted., and feemed to wait till their main body fhould join them. They continued in this ftation, with- out giving us any interruption, while we entered the wa- ter, and waded toward the boat. We now took a view of them at our leifure. They made much the fame ap- pearance as the New Hollanders, being nearly of the le ftature, ajid having their hair Ihort cropped. Tl. ROUND THE WORLD, 235 They xvcre alfo tike them ftark naked. During this lime they were ftuuung at a alliance, and letting off their fires, which feemcd to be difcharged by a ihort piece of ftick, probably a hollow cane, this being fwung Zideways, produced fire and fmoke like that occafioned by a nmfquet. The crew on board the fhip faw this ftrange appearance, and thought the natives had fire arms. Thofe who wentout in the boat, and had rowed a-breaft of them, fired fome mufquets above their heads, the balls of which being heard by the natives rattling among the trees, they retired very deliberately^ and our people in the boat returned to the fhip. Upon examining the lances that had been thrown at us, we found they were made of a reed, or bamboo cane, the points of which uere of hard wood, and barbed in, many places. They were light, ill made, and about four feet long. Such was the force with which they were difcharged, that they went beyond us, though we were at fixty yards diftance, but in what manner they were difcharged we could not determine; probably they might be thrown with a Hick, in the manner practiced by the New Hollanders. This plaqe is in latitude 6 deg. 15 min. S. The whole coaft of this country is low land, but covered with a luxuriance of wood and herbage beyond defcription beautiful . The cocoa-nut, bread-fruit, and plantain tree, all flourifhed here in the higheft perfection, befides moft of the trees, fhrubs, and plants, that are common to the South Sea iflands. This day, Monday, Sept. the 3d, we mack fail to the weft ward, being refolved to fpend no more time upon this coaft; but before we got under fail, fome of the officers ftrongly urged the Captain to fent a party of men on ihore, to cut down the cocoa-nut trees, for the fake of the fruit. This Capt. Cook, with equal wifclom and humanity, peremptorily refufed, as unjutt and cruel ; fenfible that the poor Indians, who could not brook even the landing of a fmall party on their coaft, would have made a vigorous cfibrt to defend their property had it been invaded , confequently many muft have fallen a facrifice on their lide, and perhaps ibme of our own people. " I mould, '/ays Gapt. Cook) G g 2 hive 236 GOOK*S tiRST VOYAGE have regretted the ncceflity of fuch a meafure, if I had been in want of the neceffaries of life ; and cer- tainly itwould have been highly criminal when nothing was to be obtained but two or three hundred green cocoa-nuts ; which would at moft have procured us a mere tranfient gratification. I might indeed have pro- ceeded farther along the coaft to the northward, or weftward, in fearch of a place where the fhip might have lain fq near the more, as to cover the people with her guns when they landed ; but this would have ob- viated only part of the mifchief, and though it might have feeured us, it would probably in the very act have been fatal to the natives. Befides, we had reafon to think that before fuch a place could have been found, we Ihould have been carried fo far to the weftward as to have been obliged to go to Batavia, on the north fide of Java, through the ftrei^hts of Sunday : the 'Clip alfo was fo very leaky that I doubted whether it would not be neceffary to heave her down at Batavia, which was another reafon for making the beft of our way to that place, efpecially as no difcoveries could be expeded in feas which had already been navigated, and where every coaft had been laid down by the Dutch geographers.' 1 On Saturday the 8th, we paffed two fmall iflands, on one of which Capt. Cook would have landed, but hav- ing only ten fathom water, the ground being alfo rocky, and the wind blowing frefh, we might have endangered the iafety of the fliip. We now failed at a moderate rate till next morning at three o'clock ; after which we had no ground with 120 fathoms. Before noon we had fight of land, which was conjectured to be either the Arrou Iflands, or Timor Laoct. We were now in latitude 9 deg. 37 min. S. and in longitude 233 deg. 54 min. W. We flood off and on during the night, and on Wednefday the izth, we faw a number of fires and fmoke in feveral places, from whence it was con- jectured that the place was well peopled. The land near the fhore was covered with high trees, not unlike pines ; farther back were cocoa-trees and mangroves ; there were many f alt-water creeks, and feveral ipots of around ROUND THE WORLD. ground which appeared to have been cleared by art ; and the whole country rofe, by gradual flopes, into hills of a very corifiderable height. The land and fea breezes being now very flight, we continued in light of the ifland for two days, when it was obferved that the hills reached in many places quite to the fea-coaft, and where that was not the cafe, there were large and noble groves of the cocoa-nut tree, which ran about a mile up the county, at which diftance great numbers of houfes and plantations werefeen ; the plantations were furrounded with fences, and extended nearly to the fummits of the moft lofty hills, yet neither the natives nor cattle were feen on any of them, which was thought a very extraordinary circumftance. Finegroves of the fan palm Ihaded the houfes from the rays of the fun. On the 1 6th, we had fight of the little ifland called Rotte ; and the fame day faw the ifland Semau, at a clillance to tne fouthward of Timor. The ifland of Rotte is chiefly covered with bufhy wood without leaves; but there are a number of fan palm trees on it, grow- ing near the fandy beaches ; and the whole confiils of alternate hills and valleys. The ifland of Semau is not ib hilly as Timor, but refembles it greatly in other re- fpecls. At ten o'clock this night a dull reddifli light was feen in the air, many parts of which emitted rays of a brighter colour, which foon vaniflied, and were fucceeded by others of the fame kind. This phceno- menon, which reached about ten degrees above the horizon, bore a coniiderable refemblance to the Aurora Borealis, only that the rays of light which it emitted had no tremulous motion : it was furveyed for two hours, during which time its brightnefs continued un- diminifhed. As the fliip was now clear of all the ifl-mds which had been laid down in fuch maps as were on board, we made fail during the night, and were furprifed the next morning at the fight of an ifland to the W. S. W. which we flattered ourfelves was a new difcovcry. Before noon we had light of houfes, groves of cocoa-nut trees, and large flocks of Ihcep. This was a welcome fight to people \vhofc health 238 COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE health was declining for want of refremment, and it was inftantly refolved to attempt the purchase of what we ftood fo much in need of. The fecond lieutenant was immediately difpatched in the pinnace, in fearch of a landing-place ; and he took with him fuch things as it was thought might be acceptable to the natives. During Mr. Gore's abfence, the people on board faw two men on horfeback upon the hills, who frequently flopped to take a view of the vefiel. The lieutenant foon returned with an account that he had entered a little cove, near which ftood a few houfes ; that feveral men advanced and invited him to land ; and that they converted together fo well as they could by figns, He reported that thefe people were very like the Malays, both in perfon^and clrefs ; and faid they had no other arms but a knife which each of them wore in his girdle. The lieutenant not being able to find any place in which the fhip might come to anchor, he was difpatch- ed again wkh money and goods to buy fuch necefla- ries as were immediately wanted for the fick. Dr. Solander attended the lieutenant, and during their ab- fence, the fhip ftood on and off the fliore. Soon after the boat had put off, two other horfemen were feen from the fhip, one of whom had a laced hat on, and was drefled in a coat and waiftcoat, of the fafhion of Europe. Thefe men rode about on fhore taking little notice of the boat, but regarding the Ihip with theut- moft attention. As foon as the boat reached the fhore, fome other perfons on horfeback, and many on foot haftened to the fpot, and it was obferved that fome co- coa-nuts were put into the boat, from whence it was concluded, that a traffickhad commenced with the na- tives. A fignal being made from the boat that the fhip might anchor in a bay at fome drftance, fhe im- mediately bore away for it. When the lieutenant came on board, he reported, that he could not purchafe any cocoa-nuts, as the owner of them was abfent, and that what he had brought were given him, in return for which he had preffed the natives with fome linen. The method by which he learned that there was a harbour in the neighbourhood, was by the natives drawing a kind ROUND THE WORLD. 239 kind of rude map on the fand, in which the harbour, and a town near it, was reprefented ; it was likewife hinted to him, that fruit, fowls, hogs, andfheep might be there obtained in great abundance. He faw ieveral of the principal inhabitants of the ifland, who had chains of gold about their necks, and wore fine linen. The word Portuguefe being frequently repeated by the In Hans, it was conjectured that fome natives of Portu- gal were in the ifland, and one of the boat's crew being of that kingdom, he fpoke to the iflanders in his own language, but foon found that they had only learned a few words, of which they did not know the meaning. While the natives were endeavouring to reprefent the fituation of the town near the harbour, one of them, in order to be more particular indirections, informed the Englifh that they would fee fomething which he endea- voured to defcribe by placing his fingers acrofs each other ; and the Portuguefe i'ailor took it for granted, that he could mean nothing but a crofs. When the boat's crew were on the point of returning to thefliip, the gentleman who had been feen on horfeback in the drefs of Europe, came down to the beach ; but the lieutenant did not think it proper to hold a conference with him, becaufe he had left his commifiion on board the fliip. When the (hip had entered the bay, in the evening,, according to the directions received, an Indian, town was feen at a diftance ; upon which a jack was hoifted on the fore-top-maft head, prefcntly afterwards three guns were fired, and Dutch colours were hoifted in the town ; the fliip, however, held on her way, and came to an anchor at feven in the evening. The co- lours being feen hoifted on the beach the next morning, the captain concluded, that the Dutch had afettlement on the ifland, he therefore difpatched the fecond lieu- tenant to acquaint the governor, or other principal re- fident, who they were, and that the ftiip had put in for neceflary refremments. The lieutenant having landed, he was received by a kind of guard of fomething more than twenty Indians, armed with mufquets, who after they had taken down tbcir colours from the beach, pro- ceedcd COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ceeded without the leaft military order ; and thus ef corted him to the town, where the colours had been hoifted the preceding evening. The lieutenant was now conducted to the Raja, or king of the ifland, to whom, by means of a Portuguefe interpreter, he made known his bufmefs; The Raja faid, he was ready to iupply the fhip with the neceflary refrefliments, but that he could not trade with any other people than the Dutch, with whom he was in alliance, without having firft obtained their confent ; he addedi howeverj that he would make application to the Dutch agent, who was the only white man among them. To this agent, whofe name was Lange, and who proved to be the per- fon that was feen from the fhip in the European drefs, a letter was difpatched, and in a few hours he came to the towri, behaved politely to the lieutenant, and told him he might buy what he thought proper of the inha- bitants of the ifland* This offer being freely made, and readily accepted, the Raja and Mr. Lange intimated their \vifhes to go on board the fhip, and that two of the boat's crew might be left as hoflages for their fafe return. The lieutenant gratified them in both thefe requens, and took them on board juft before din- ner was ferved. It was thought that they would have fat down without ceremony ; but now the Raja in- timated his doubts, whether being a black, they would permit him to fit down with them. The politenefs of the officers foon removed his fcruples, and the greatefl good humour and feftivity prevailed among them. As Dr. Solander and another gentleman on board, were to- lerable proficients in Dutch, they acled as interpreters between Mr. Lange and the officers, while fame of the failors, who underflood Portuguefe, converfed with fuch of tlie Raja's attendants as fpoke that language. Oar dinner confifted chiefly of mutton, which when the llaja had tafted, he requefted of us an Englifh fheep, and the only one we had left was prefented to him. Our complaifance in this particular, encouraged the king to afkfor an Englifh dog, and Mr. Banks politely gave him his greyhound. A fpying-glafs was alfo put into his hand, Mr. Johan Chriftopher Lange having in- timatedj KOUND THE WORLD. timated, that fiich a prefent would be very acceptable. Our vifitors now informed us, that the ifland abound- ed with buffaloes, fheep, hogs, and fowls, plenty of which fhould be driven down to the more the next day. This put. us all in high fpirits, and the liquor circu- lated rather fafler than either the Indians or the Saxon could bear; but they had, however, the refolution to exprefs a delire to depart, before they were quite in^ toxicated. When they came upon deck, they were re- ceived in the fame manner as when they came aboard, by the marines under arms ; and the Raja exprefling a defire to fee them exercife, his curiofity was gratified. They fired three rounds. The king obferved them with great attention, and appeared much furprized at the regularity and expedition of their manoeuvres. When they cocked their firelocks, he ftruck the fide of the fliip with his flick, exclaiming at the fame time violently, " That all the locks made but one click." They were difmiffed with many prefcnts, and on thrir departure were faluted with nine guns. Mr. Banks with Dr. Solander accompanied them, and when they put off returned our compliments with three cheers. Our gentlemen on their arrival at the town, tafted their palm-wine, which was the frcfli juice of the trees, tin- fermented. It had a fweet, but not difagreeable tafle, and hopes were entertained, that it might contribute to recover our fick from the fcurvy. The houfes of the natives confifted of only a thatched roof, fupported over a boarded floor, by pillars about four feet high. Wednefday the i9th, in the morning, Capt. Cook, attended by feveral gentlemen, went on more to return the Raja's vifit; but their principal intention was to pur- chafe the cattle and fowls, which they had been afiurcd the preceding day fhould be driven down to the beach. We were greatly chagrined at finding no fteps had been taken to fulfil this promifc: however, we pro- ceeded to the houfe of aflcmbly, which, with a few other houfes, built by the Dutch Eaft-lndia Company, are diftinguifhed from the reft, by having two pieces of wood, reiembling a pair of cows horns, fixed at each end of the roof j and thefe we concluded to be what the No. 8. Hh Portugud'c 54* COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE Portuguefe failorconftrued into croffes, from the Indian (laving croffed his fingers when he was defcribing the town. At the houfc of affembly we faw Mr. Lange and the Raja, whofe name was A Ivladocho Lomi Djara, furroundedbymanyof the principal people; Capt.Cook having informed them, that he had loaded his boat with goods, which he wifhed to exchange for neceffary re- frefhments, permiffion was given him to land them, We now endeavoured to make an agreement for the hogs, fheep, and buffaloes, which were to be paid for in cam; but this bufinefs was no fooner hinted than Mr, JLange took his leave, having firft told the captain, that he had received a letter from the governor of Con- cordia, in Timor, the contents of which fhould be dif- clofed at his return. As the morning was now far ad- vanced, and we had no frefh provifions on board, we requeued the Raja's permiiTion to buy a irnall hog and fome rice, and to order his people to drefs the dinner for us, He very obligingly replied, that if we could eat victuals drefTed by his Cub] eels, which he could fcarcely fuppofe, he would do himfelf the honour of entertain- ing us, A dinner being thus procured, the captain lent off his boat 'to bring liquors from the {hip. It was ready about five o'clock, arid after we were feated on mats, which were fpread on the floor, it was ferved in fix and thirty bafkets. We were then conducted by turns to a hole in the floor, 'near which flood a man with water in a veffel, made of the leaves of the fan- palm, \vho affifted us in wafhing our hands. This done we ; returned to our places arid expected the king. Having wajttd fome time," we enquired the reafon of his abfencc, arid' were informed that the perfon who gave the entertainment never partook of it witlvkis guefts ; but tliat the Raja was ready to 'come and tafte of what xvas 'provided, if \ve entertained a thought that the vic- tuals were poifohed." XVe declared that we did not harbour any ; fuch illfpicibn, and defu eel 'that the cufioni of the country mi^ht- hot be violated on 'our account. When dinner was elided, the \v v ine paffe'd brifkly, and we invited the Raja'to' drink with us, thinking if he Wnld not cat' with' us, he might at leaft fhare in tHe ' jollity ROUND THE WORLD* 343 jollity of tlie bottle ; but he again excufed himfelf, fay- ing, the man who entertained his guefts fhould never get drunk with them, and that theYurefi way to avoid tiiis was to refrain from tailing the liquor. The piimtf minifter and Mr. Lange were of our party, and wi made a moft luxurious meal. The pork and rice were excellent,' and the broth not to be defpifed , but the fpopns, made of leaves, were fo imall, that few of us had patience to ufe them. We did not drink our wine at the place where we had dined ; and the remains of the dinner we left to the feamen and fervants, who im- mediately took our places. They could not difpatch all we had left; but the Raja's female fervants, who came to take away the utenfils, obliged them to carry away what they had not eaten. When we thought thd wine had fo far operated as to open the heart, we took an opportunity to enquire after the buffaloes and Iheep, of which we had not in all this time heard a fyllable, though they were to have been at the beach early in the morning. Mr. Langc, the Saxon Dutchman, now be- gan to communicate to us the contents of the letter, which he pretended to have received from the gover- nor of Concordia, and wherein hefaid, inftruclionswere given, that if the mip mould touch at this ifland, and be in want of provilions, me mould be fupplied j but he was not to permit her to remain longer than was necef- fary; nor were any large prefents to be made to the na- tives of low rank, nor to be even left with their fuperi- ors to be divided among them after the mip had failed ; but he added, any trifling civilities received from the In- dians might be acknowledged by a prefent of beads, or other articles of very fmall value. It is probable that the whole of this itory was a fiftion ; and that by precluding our liberality to the natives, the Saxon Dutchman hoped more eafily to draw all the prcfents of any value into his own pocket. In the evening we were informed, that only a few fhcep had been brought to the beach, which had been driven away before our people could procure money from the mip to pay for them. Some fowls however were bought, and a large quantity of a kind of fyrup made of the juice of the H h a palm- 244 COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE palm-tree. This, though infinitely fuperior to molaffes tfr treacle, fold at a very low price. Vexed at being thus difappointed in purchafing the chief articles moft wanted, we remonftrated with Mr. Lange, who now found another fubterfuge. He faid, had we gone down to the beach onrfeives, we might have purchafed what we pleafed ; but that the natives were afraid of being jmpofed on by our feamen with counterfeit money, We could not but feel fome indignation againft a marl -who had concealed this, being true ; or alledged it, being falfe; and Capt. Cook repaired immediately to the beach, but no cattle were to be feeri, nor \vere any at hand to be bought. During his abfence, Lange told Mr. Banks, that the Indians were offended at ournot having offered them gold for what we had to fell, and without which nothing could be bought. Mr. Banks did not think it worth his while to hold farther conver- fation with a man who had been guilty of fuch repeat- ed fallities ; but rofe up fuddcnly, and we all returned on board much difllitisfied with our fruitlefs negotia- tions* The Raja had indeed given a more plauiible reafon for our difappointment : he faid, the buffaloes being far up in the country, there had not been time to bring them down to the beach. On Thurfday the 2oth, Dr. Solander went again afiiore with Capt. Cook, and while the former went up to the town to fpeak to Lange, the captain remained on the beach with a view of purchafing provisions. Here he met with the old Indian, who, as he appeared to have fome authority, we had among ourfelves diftin- guifhed by the name of the Prime Minifter. In order to engage this man in our intereft, the captain prefented him with a fpying-glafs ; but only a fmall buffalo was offered to be fold. The price was five guineas, nearly twice its real value. Three, however, were offered, which the dealerthought agood price; but faid, hemuft acquaint the king with what had been bid before he could ftrike the bargain. A meffenger was immediate- ly diijpatched to the Baja, and on his return brought void, that not lefs than live guineas would be taken Yor the buffalo.. The captain absolutely rculed to give the fum ROUND THE WOULD* fum demanded, which occafioned the fending away a (econd meffenger, and during his abfence, Dr. Solander was feen coming from the town, followed by above a hundred men, fome of whom were armed with muf- quets, and others with lances. Upon enquiring into the meaning of this hoftile appearance, the doctor in* formed us, the purport of a meffage from the king was, according to Mr. Lange's interpretation, that the peo- ple would not trade with us becaufe we had refufed to give them more than half the value for their commo- dities ; and that we were not to expect permiflion to trade upon any terms longer than this day. A native of Timor, whofe parents were Portuguefe, en me down with this party, and delivered to the cap- tain what was pretended to be the order of the Raja, and which was in fubftance the fame that Lange had told Dr. Solander; but it was afterwards difcovered that this man was a confident of Lange's in the fcheme of extortion. The Englifh gentlemen had at the fame time no doubt, but that the fuppofed order of the Haja was a contrivance of thefe men, and while they were debating how to act in this critical conjuncture, anxious to bring the affair to a fpeedy iffue, the Portuguefe be- gan to drive away fuch of the natives as had brought paim-fyrup and fowls to fell, and others who were now bringing fheep and buffaloes to the market. At this juncture Capt. Cook happening to look at the old man who had been diftinguimed by the name of prime mi- nifter, imagined that he faw in his features a difappro- bation of the prefent proceedings ; and, willing to im- prove the advantage, he grafped the Indian's hand, and gave him an old broad-fword. This well- timed prefent produced all the good effects that could be wifhed -, the prime minifter was enraptured at fo honourable a mark of diftinction, and brandifhing his fword over the head of the impertinent Portuguefe, he made both him and a man who commanded the party, fit down behind him on the ground. The whole bnfincfs was now accom- piifhed ; the natives, eager to fupply whatever was wanted, brought their cattle in for fale, and the market was &on flocked. For the full two buffaloes, C.ipt. 2. * Cook 24* COOK'S FIRST V o Y A Cook gave ten guineas : but he afterwards them by way of exchange, giving a mufquet for each, and at this rate he might have bought any number he thought proper. There remained no doubt but that Lange had a profit out of the two that were fold ; and that his reafon for having faid the natives would take nothing but gold for their cattle, was, that he might the more eafily ihare in the produce. Capt. Cook pur- thafed of the natives of this ifland fome hundred gal- lons of palm-fyrup, a finall quantity of garlick, a large number of eggs, fome limes and cocoa-nuts, thirty dozen of fowls, three hogs, iixlheep, and nine buffaloes; We having obtained thefe neceffary articles, now pre- pared for failing from this place. . The ifland of Savu is fituated in 10 cleg. 35 min. S. latitude, and 237 deg. 30 min. W. longitude. Its length is between twenty and thirty miles. But its breadth Capt. Cook could not afcertain, as he only faw the north fide of it. The harbour in which the fhip lay, was called Seba, from a cliftricl of the country fo denominated : and there are two other bays on different parts of the ifland, At the time the Endeavour lay there it was near the end of the dry feafon, when it had not rained for almoft feven months, nor was there a run-. ning ftream of frefli water to be feen, and the natives, were fupplied only by fmall fprings, fituated at a dif- tance up the country, yet even in this dry feafon the appearance of the ifland was beautiful. Near the coait the land lies level, and well cloathed with palm, called arecao, and cocoa-nut trees. Farther off, the ground rifes in the moft gradual afcent, and is covered with fair palm-trees even to the tops of the hills, fo as to prefent a regular grove to the view. The rains in this country ceafe in March or April, and fall again in Oclo* ber or November, and thefe rains produce abundance of indico, millett, and maize, which grow beneath the fineft trees in the country. Befides thefe articles, the ifland produces tobacco, cotton, betel, tamarinds, limes, oranges, mangoes, guinea corn, rice, callevances, and water-melons. A fmall quantity of cinnamon was feen, and fome European herbs, fuch as garlick, fennel, celery, and ROUND THE WORLD. 247 find marjoram, befides which, there are fruits of various kinds, and particularly the blimbi, which has a ftiarp tafte, and is a fine pickle, but it is not eaten raw ; its length is from 3 to 4 inches j it is nearly as thick as a man's thumb, of an oval form, covered with a very thin Ikin, of a very light green, and contains a number of feeds ranged in the fhape of a ftar. Several buffaloes were feen on this ifland which were almoft as large as an ox ; and from a pair of enormous horns of this ani- mal, which Mr. Banks faw, it was fuppofed that fomc of them were much larger; yet they did not weigh more than half as much as an ox of the fame fize ; having loft the greater part of their flefh through the late dry weather : the meat however was juicy, and of a delicate flavour. The horns of thefe animals bend backwards ; they had no dew-laps, and fcarce any hair on their fkins, and their ears were remarkably large. The other tame animals on the ifland are dogs, cats, pigeons, fowls, hogs, goats, fhecp, afTcs, and horfes. Few of the horfes are above twelve hands high, yet they are full of mettle, and pace naturally in an expediti- ous manner : the natives ride them with a halter only. The hogs of this country are fed on the hulks of rice and palm-fyrup mixed with water, and are remarkably fine and fat. The fheep is not unlike a goat, and are therefore called cabaritos ; their ears, which are long, hang down under their horns ; their nofes are arched, and their bodies covered with hair. The fowls are of the game kind, and though they are rather large, the hen lays a very fmall egg. The fea-coaft furniflies the inhabitants with turtle, but not in any great abundance. The people of this ifland are rather below the mid- dle ftature ; their hair is black and ftrait, and perfons of all ranks, as well thofe that are expofcd to the wea- ther, asthofe that are not, have one general complexion, wh'ch is the dark brown. The men are well formed and fprightly, and their features differ much from each other ; the women, on the contrary, have all one fct of features, are veiy ihort, and broad built. The men have ill ver" pincers hanging by ftrmgi round their Bttcks 248 COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE necks, with which they pluck out the hair of their beards ; and both men and women root out the hair that grows under their arms ; the hair of the vvomens heads is tied in a club behind, while the men wear a kind of turban on their heads, formed of muflin, cotton, or even with lilk handkerchiefs, but the heads of the wo- men have no covering. The drefs of the men coniifts of two pieces of cotton cloth, one of which is bound round the middle, and the lower edge of it being drawn pretty tight between the legs, the upper edge is left loofe, lo as to form a kind of pocket, in which they carry knives and other things : the other piece being paft under the former on the back of the wearer, the ends of it are carried over the moulders, and tucked into the pocket before. The women drew the upper edge of the piece round the waift tight, while the lower edge dropping to the knees, make a kind of petticoat : the other piece of cloth is fattened acrofs the bread, and under the arms, This cloth, which is manufactured by the natives, is dyed blue while in the yarn ; and as it is of various Shades, its look, when it comes to be worn, is very beautiful. Their ornaments are very numerous, and conlift of rings, beads worn round the neck and on the wrifts, and chains of plaited gold wire, are like wife worn by both fexes ; but the women had likewife girdles of beads round their wards, which ferved to keep up their petticoats. Both fexes had their ears bored without a fingle exception, that we faw, but we never obferved an ornament in any of them, Nor did we perceive either man or woman in any thing but what appeared to be their ordinary drefs, except the king and his mi- nifter, who in general wore a kind of night-gown of coarfe chintz, and the latter once received us in a black robe, which appeared to be made of prince's fluff. One perfon, in the way of finery, had a lilver-headed cane, marked with a kind of cypher, confiding of the Roman letters V.O. C. which might have been a prefent from tl,ie Dutch Eaft-India Company, whole mark it is. "We alfo faw boys about t\yelve or fourteen years old, having fpiral circles of thick brafs wire pafied three or four ROUND THE WOULD. four times round their arms, above the elbow; and upon the fame part of the arm, fome of the men had rings of ivory, two inches broad, and about one in thicknefs } thefe we were informed were the fons of the Raja's or chiefs, whofe high births were diftinguifhed by thefe cumbrous ornaments. Moft of the men had their names marked on their arms, and the women had a fquare ornament of flourifhed lines imprinted juil under the bend of the elbow. On enquiry it was found that this practice had been common among the Indians long before they were vilited by any Europeans ; and in the neighbouring illands, it was faid, the inhabitants were marked with circles upon their necks and breafts. We were ilruck with the fimilitude between thefe marks, and thofe made by tattaowing in the South Sea iflands } and M. BofTu's account of fome Indians who dwell on the banks of Akanza, a river in North America, which falls into the Mifiiflippi, will afford a probable con- jecture how the operation is performed. " The Al- kanzas, fays he, have adopted me, and as a mark of my privilege, have imprinted the figure of a roe-buck upon my thigh, which was done in this manner : an Indian having burnt fome ftraw, diluted the afhes with wa- ter, and with this mixture, drew the figure upon my Ikin ; he then retraced it, by pricking the lines with needles, foas at every puncture juft to draw the blood, and the blood mixing with the afhes of the draw, forms a figure which can never be effaced." The houfes of Savu arc all built upon the fame phn, but differ in lize, according to the rank and wealth of the proprietors, being from twenty feet to four hun- dred, and they are fixed on pofts of about four or five feet from the ground. One end of thefe is driven into the ground, and upon the other is laid a floor of wood, which makes a vacant fpaceof four feet between the floor of the honfc and the ground. On this floor are raifed other pillars that fupport a roof of floping fides, which meet in a ridge at the top, like thofe of our barns; the caves of this roof, which is thatched with palm-leaves, reach within two feet of the floor, and over-hang it as much. The fpace within is gene- No. 8. Ii ' all y COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE rally divided lengthwife into three equal parts ; the mid- dle part, or center, is inclofed by a partition of four fides, reaching about fix feet above the floor, and one or two fmall rooms are alfo fometimes taken off from the fides ; the reft of the fpace under the roof is open, ib as freely to admit the air and the light. The parti- cular ufes of thefe apartments we could not, during our fhort ft ay, learn, except that the clofe room in thecen- cer was appropriated to the women. As to the food of thefe people, they eat all the tame animals to be found in the ifland ; but they prefer the hog to all others ; next to this they admire horfe-flefh ; to which fucceecis the buffalo, then poultry ; and they prefef cats and dogs to goats and flieep. Fiih, we be- lieve, is not eaten but by the poor, nor by them, except when their duty or bufinefs requires them to be upon the beach, and then each man has a light cafting net, which is girt round his body, and with this he takes any fmall fifh which may come in his way. The moft remarkable and ufeful tree that grows on the ifland is the fan palm. Its ufes are fo various, that it requires particular notice. At certain times it is a fuccedaneum for all other food both to man and beaft. A kind of wine, called toddy, is extracted from this tree, by cutting the buds, and tying under them fmall bafkets, made of the leaves. The juice which trickles into thefe veffels is collected morning and evening, and is the common drink of all the inhabitants. The na- tives call this liquor dua or duac, and both the- fyrup and fugar, gula. The fyrup is not unlike treacle, but is. fomewhat thicker, and has a more agreeable tafle. The fugar is of a redifh brown, probably the fame with the Jtigata fugar upon the continent of India, and to our tafte it was more agreeable than any cane fu- gar, unrefined. We at firft apprehended that the fy- rup, of which fome of our people eat great quantities, would have occafioned fluxes, but what effect it pro- duced was rather falutary than hurtful. This fyrup is ufed to fatten hogs, dogs, and fowls; and the inhabi- tants thcmielves have fubfifted upon this alone for fe- veral months, when other crops have failed, and ani- mal ROUND THE WORLD. 251 mal food has been fcarce. With the leaves of this tree the natives thatch their houfes, and make balkets, cups, umbrellas and tobacco-pipes. They make leaft account of the fruit, and as the buds are wounded for the tuac or toddy, there is very little produced. It is nearly of the fize of a full grown turnip ; and the kernels muft be eaten before it is ripe, otherwife they are fo hard, that the teeth will not penetrate them. As fire-wood is very fcarce, the natives, by the fol- lowing method, make a very little anfwer the ends of cookery and diftillation. A hollow is dugunder ground, like a rabbit burrow, in a horizontal direction, about two yards long, with a hole at each end, one of which is large, and the other fmail. The fire is put in at the large hole, and the fmall one fcrvcs for a draught. Cir- cular holes aremade through the earth which covers this cavity, on which are fet earthen pots, large in the middle, and fmaller towards the bottom, fo that the fire adls upon a large part of the furface. They con- tain generally about eight or ten gallons each, and it is furprifing to fee with what a fmall quantity of fuel they are kept boiling. In this manner they boil all their victuals, and make all their fyrup and fugar. The Pe- ruvian Indians have a contrivance of the fame kind ; and perhaps by the poor in other countries it might be adopted with advantage. In this ifland both fexes are enflaved by the perni- cious cuftom of chewing beetle and areca, contracted even while they are children. With thefc they mix a fort of white lime, compofed of coral ftoncs and fhells, to which is added frequently a fmall quantity of to- bacco, whereby their mouths are rendered difguftful both to the fight and the fmell ; for the tobacco in- fects their breath, and the beetle and lime make the teeth both black and rotten. We faw many of both fexes whofe fore teeth were confumcd, irregularly, al- moft down to the gums, and corroded like iron by ruft. This lofs of teeth has generally been attributed to the tough ftringy coat of the areca nut ; but our gentlemen imputed it wholly to the lime ; for the teeth are not loofened or broken, as might be the cafcby chewing of 1 i 2 hard 8-5* COOK'S FIKST VOYAGE hard and rough fubftances, but they are gradually' wafted, as even metals are by powerful acids ; and they may not be miftaken who fuppofe that fugar has a bad effect upon the teeth of Europeans, feeing refined fu- gar contains a confiderabie quantity of lime, and it is well known, that lime will deftroy bone of any kind. When the natives are at any time not chewing beetle and areca, they then are fmoking. The manner of doing this is by roiling up a fmall quantity of tobacco, and putting it into one end of a tube, about fix inches long, as thick as a goofe quill, and made of a palm-* leaf. The women in particular were obferved to fwal* low the fmokc. The ifland is divided into five diftric~ts or nigrees, each of which is governed by a Raja, Thefe are called Laai, Seba, Regeeua, Timo, and Maflara. We went afhore at Seba, and found a Raja that governed with abfolute authority. He was about five and thirty, and the moft corpulent man we had feen upon the whole jfland. But though he governed with an unlimited authority, he took very little regal pomp upon him, He was directed almoft implicitly by Mannu Djarme, the old man, his prime minifter, already men* tioned ; yet notuithftanding the power with which he was inverted, he was univerfally beloved, a fure proof that he did not abufe it. Mr-. Lange informed Capt, Cook, that the chiefs who had fucceflively prefided over the five principalities of this ifland, had lived for time immemorial in the moft cordial frienclfliip with each other ; yet, he faid, the people were of a warlike dif- pofition, ^and had always courageoufly defended them- ielveK agai nil foreign invaders. We were told alfo, tha-f the inhabitants of the ifland could raife, on a fbort no- tice, 7,300 fighting men armed with mufquets; pf which number L;iai was faid to furnifh 2/100, Seba 2000, Regeeua 1,500, Thno Koo, and Maflara 400. Befjdfs the arms alrtady mentioned, each man is fur- niihed >vkh a large mafl'y pple-ax, M'hjeh, in the hands, of people who have courage, muft be a formidable weapon. In the ufe of their lances thefe people are faid to be fp expert, that they can pierce a man through the ROUND THE WORLD. the heart at fixty or feventy yards diftance : yet the Raja had always lived at peace with his neighbours. This account of the martial prowefs of the inhabi- tants of Savu may be true ; but during our flay we faw no appearance of it. Before the town houfe indeed, we faw about one hundred fpears and targets, which ferved to arm thofe who were lent down to intimidate us at the trading place, but they feemed to be the refufe of old armories, no two being of the fame make or length, for fome were fix, others fixteen feet long. Not one lance was among them, and though the mufquets were clean on the outfide, within they were eaten by the ruft into holes; and the people themfelves appeared to be fo little acquainted with military difcipline, that they came down like a diforderly rabble, every one having a cock, fome tobacco, or other merchandife, and few or none of their cartouch boxes were furnifhed with either powder or ball, but a piece of paper was thruft into the holes to fave appearances. We likewife faw before the houfe of aflembly a great gun, fome fwivcls, and patararoes : but the great gun lay with the touch- hole to the ground, and the fwivcls and patararoes were not in their carriages. The inhabitants of Savu are divided into five ranks, namely, the Rajas, the land owners, the manufacturers, the fervants, and the flaves. The llajas are chief; the land owners are refpecUd in proportion to their eftates, and the number of their flaves, which laft are bought and fold with their eftates ; but a fat hog is the price of one if purchafcd feparately. Notwithftanding a man may thus fell his flave, or convey him with his lands, yet his power does not extend farther, as he may not even ftrike him without the Raja's permiflion. The eftates of thefe land-holders are of very different ex- tent: fome of them not poflefling above five flaves, whilft others have 500. When a man of rank goes abroad, one of his flaves follows him with a fllver- Jiilted fword or hanger, ornamented with horfc hair tafiels, and another carries a little bag containing to- bacco, beetle, areca, and lime. This is all the Itate that even the Rajas themfelves take upon them. Thefe COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE Thefe people have a great veneration for antiquity. Their principal boaft is of a long line of venerable an- ceftors. Thole -houfes that have been well tenanted for iucceflive generations, are held in the high eft efteem ; even the ftones which are worn fmooth by having been fat upon for ages, derive a certain value from that circumftance. He whofe progenitors have be- queathed him any of thefe ftones, or whole wealth has enabled him to purchafe them, caufes them to be ranged round his habitation, for his fervants and Haves to lit upon. The Raja caufes a large ftone to be fet up in the chief town of each diftrict as a monument of his reign. In the province of Seba, thirteen fuch ftones were feen as well as the remains of feveral others which were much worn. Thefe ftones were all placed on the top of a hill, and fome of them were of fuch an enormous fize that it was amazing by what means they could have been brought thither ; nor could any infor- mation on this head be obtained from the natives : thefe monuments however, indicated that for a feries of generations, the ifland had been regularly govern ed . W 7 hen a Raja dies, proclamation is made that all thofe who have been his Iubjects mall hold a folemn feftival. On this they proceed to the hill where thefe ftones are creeled, and feaft for feveral weeks, killing all the ani- mals that fuit their purpofe, wherever they can be found, in order to furnifh the treat, which is daily ferved up on the monumental ftones. When they have thus exhaufted their whole flock, they are com- pelled to keep a faft ; and when the feaft happens to end in the dry feafon, when they cannot get vegetables to eat, they have no other fubfiftance than the palm fyrup and water, till the few animals which have efcaped the general mafiacre have bred a iuflicient number for a frelh fupply, except the adjacent diftrict happens to be in a condition to relieve them. The natives of Savu have an inftrument with which they clearthe cotton of its feeds; it is about feven inches in height and fourteen in length. They have alfo a machine with which they fpin by hand, as was the cuftom before the invention of fpinning wheels in Europe. The ROUND THE WO&LD. 255 The inhabitants of this ifland were in general robuft and healthy, and had every mark of longevity. The ihiall pox, however, is a diftemper with which they are acquainted, and which they dread as much as a peftilence. \Vhen any perfon is attacked by it, he is carried to a fpot at a diftance from the houfes, where his food is conveyed to him by means of a long ftick, as no one dares to venture near him. Abandoned by- all his friends, he is there left to live or die as it may- happen, without being admitted to any comforts of the community. The Portuguefe veiy early vifited this ifland, on which they eftablifhed a fettlement, but foon after they were fucceeded by the Dutch, who without for- mally taking pofleflion of the place, fent a number of trading veflels in order to eftablifli a commerce with. the natives. Moft of the Dutch purchafes, it is fup- pofed, are confined to a fupply of provifions for the Spice-Iflands, the inhabitants of which breed but a fmall number of cattle. The Dutch Eaft India Com- pany made an agreement with the feveral Rajas of the illands, that a quantity of rice, maize, and callavances mould be annually furniflied to their people, who, ia return, were to fupply the Rajas with filk, linen, cut- lery wares, and arrack. Certain fmall veflels, each having on board ten Indians, are fent from Timor to bring away the maize and callavances, and a fhip that brings the articles furnifhed by the Dutch, receives the rice on board once a year ; and as there are three bays on this coaft, this veflel anchors in each of them in turn. The Dutch articles of commerce are accepted by the Rajas as a prefent ; and they and their chief at- tendants drink of the arrack without intermiiiion till it is exhaufted. It was in tne agreement above-mentioned that the Rajas ftipulated, that a Dutch refident mould be con- ilantly on the ifland. Accordingly this Langc, whom we have mentioned, was fent thither in that capacity, and a fort of afliftant with him, whofc father was a Portuguefe, and his mother a native of Timor, with one Frederic Craig, whole father was a Dutchman, ami 2 Ws 256 COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE his mother an Indian. Mr. Lange vifits the ftaja iri ftate, attended by fifty flaves on horfe-back, and if the crops are ripe, orders veffels to convey them immedi- ately to Timor, fo that they are not even houfed upon the ifland. It is likewife part of his bufinefs to perfuade the landholders to plant, if he perceives that they are backward in that particular. This refident had been ten years on the ifland, when the Endeavour touched there, during all which time he had not feen any\phite perfons, except thofe who came annually in the Dutch veflel, to carry off the rice, as above-mentioned. He \vas married to a native of Timor, and lived in the iame manner as the natives of Savu, whofe language he fpoke better than any other. He fat on the ground like the Indians, and chewed beetle, and feemed in every* thing to refemble them, except in his complexion and the drefs of his conntry. As to Mr. Craig, his af- fiftant, he was employed in teaching the natives to \vrite and read, and inftructing them in the principles of Chriftianity. Though there was neither clergyman nor church to be feen upon the ifland, yet this Mr* Craig averred, that in the townmip of Seba only, there Were 600 Chriftians : as to the religion of thofe who have not embraced Chriftianity, it is a peculiar f'pecies of Paganifm, every one having a god of his own, fome- Tvhat after the manner of the Cemies heretofore men- tioned. Their morality, however, is much purer than could be expected from fuch a people. Robberies are fcarcely ever committed. Murder is unknown among them ; and though no man is allowed more than one wife, they areftrangers to adultery, and almoft fo to the crime of fimple fornication. When any difputes arife between the natives, the determination of the Raja is decifive and fatisfaclory. Some obfervations were made upon the language of the natives, by the gentlemen, weile the vefiel lay here ; and a kind of vocabulary formed, a Iketch of which we have here inferted : Momonne, - A man* Mobunne, A woman. Catoo, . - T/:f head. ROUXD THE WORLD. R.OW catoo, Matta, Rowna matta, "Swan^a, Cavarancfa, \j * Wodcele, Vaio, Lacoco, Soofoo, * Caboo foofoo )ul loo, Aflbo, Tooga, Rootoo, Baibo, Dunceala, Kifibvei yilla, Cumacoo, Wulaba, Cabaou, Djara, Vavee, Dooraba, Kcfavoo, Guaca, ?vlaio, Man nu, Carovv, Pangoutoo, lea, Unjoo, Jslicu, Boaceree, Calella, Canana, Aou, Maanadoo, Tata, Lodo, Warroo, AidafTee, No. 8. The hair. The eye*. The eye-la foes. The nofe. The cheeks. - The ears. The tongue. The neck. The breajls. The nipples. - The belly. The navel. - The thighs. Tfe knees. - The legs. The feet. The toes. The arms. The hand. A buffalo. A horfe. A hog. Afieep. A goat. A dog. A cat. Afoivl. The tail. The beak. - Afjb. - A turtle. A cocoa-nut. Fan -palm. 'Areca, Beetle. Lime. Afijh-book. Tatou^ or marks on - The fun. The moon. Thefea. Kk Aliea, COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE Ailea, Aoe, Maate, Tabudge, Tatee too, Ufle, Lima, Tullu, Uppah, Lumme, Unna, Pedu, Arm, Saou, Singooroo, Singurungufle, Lhuangooroo, Singaflu, Setuppah, Selacufla, Serata, Sercboo, Wafer. Fire. To die. To rie. One. Two. Three. Four. Five. Six. Seven. Eight. Nine. Ten. Eleven. 20. IOO. IOOO. 10,000. 100,000, 1,000,000. It is here necefHiry to obferve, that this ifland has not been laid down in any of the charts hitherto pub- lifhed, and as to our account of it, let it be remem- bered, that except the fafts in which we were par- ties, and the account of the objects which we had an opportunity to examine, the whole is founded merely upon the report of Mr. Lange, upon whofe authority- it muft therefore reft. Of the iflands in the neighbourhood of Savu, the principal is Timor, which is annually viflted by the Dutch relidents on the other iflands, in order to make np their accounts. Some of the towns on the north fide of Timor are in the hands of the Portuguefe ; but the Dutch poflefs a far greater proportion of the ifland, on which they have built a fort, and erected feveral ftore-houfes. There are three fmall iflands, called the Solars, which produce great abundance of the various neceiTaries of life, that'are carried in fmall veffels to the ROUND THE WORLD. 250 the Dutch fettlements on the ifland of Timor. Thefe ifhnds are low and flat, and one of them has a commo- dious harbour. To the weftward of the Solars lies the little ifland of Ende, in the pofTeffion of the Portuguefe, who have built a confiderable town on the N. E.'point of it ; and clofe to the town is an harbour where {hips may ride in fafety. The ifland of Rotte has a Dutch refident, whofe bufinefs is fimilar to that of Mr. Lange on the ifland of Savu. Rotte produces, befides fuch things as are common to other iflands, a confiderable quantity of fugar, which is made to a great degree of perfection. There is likewife a fmall ifland lying to the weft of Savu, the chief produce of which is the areca nut, of which the Dutch receive in exchange for European commodities, as large a quantity every year as load two vefTels. About two years before the Endeavour was in thefe feas, a French fhip was wrecked on the coaft of Timor : fhe had been lodged on the rocks feveral days, when the wind tore her to pieces in an inftant, and the Cap- tain, with the greater part of the feamen were drown- ed ; but the lieutenant and about eighty men, having reached the fhore, travelled acrofs the countiy of Con- cordia, where their immediate wants were relieved, and they afterwards returned to the wreck, in company with fome Dutchmen and Indians, who aflifted them in recovering all their cheils of bullion, and other ef- fects. This done they returned to Concordia, where they remained feveral weeks-, but in this interval death made fuch havock among them, that not above half their number remained to return to their native coun- try, which they did as foon as a veflel could be fitted out for them. On Friday, the 21 ft of September, in thje morning, we got under fail, and bent our courfe weft ward, along the north fide of the ifland of Savu, and of another lying to the weftward of it, which at noon boreS. S.E. diftant two leagues. At four in the afternoon, in la- titude 10 deg. 38 min. S. and longitude 238 deg. 28 min. W. we difcovered a fmall low ifland. In the evening of the 23d, we got clear of the ifUactej and Kk 2 on -e6o COOK'S FiR'ST VOYAGE on the 26th, our latitude by obfervation was lodeg, 51 rnin. S. and our longitude 252 deg. n min. W. On the 28th, we fteered all day N. W. with a view of making the land of Java, and on the 3oth, Capt. Cook took into his pofleffion the log-book and journals, at leaft all he could find of the officers, petty officers, and feamen, whom he ftrictly enjoined fecrecy with refpec"b to where they had been. At feven in the even-, ing we had thunder and lightning, and about twelve by the light of the flames we faw the weft end of Java. On Monday, October the ift, at fix o'clock in the morning, Java Head bore S. E. by E. diftant five leagues. Soon after we faw Prince's Ifland, and at ten Cracatoa, a remarkable high peaked ifland. At noon it bore N. 40 E. diftant feven leagues. On the 2nd, we were clofe in with the coaft of Java, in fifteen fathom water, along which we ftood. In the forenoon a boat was fent afhore, in order to procure fome fruit for Tupia, who was at this time extremely ill. Our people returned with four cocoa-nuts, and a irnall bunch of plantains, for which they had paid a, {hilling ; but fome herbage for the cattle the Indians gave our feamen, and ailifted them to cut it. The coun- try had a delightful appearance, being every where co- vered with trees, which looked like one continued wood. About eleven o'clock we faw two Dutch Eaft Indiamen, from whom we heard with great pleafure, that the Swallow had reached the Englifh channel in, fafety, having been at Batavia about two years before. We alfo lea'rnt, that there. was ftationed here a fly boat or packet, to carry letters, as was faid, from the Dutch mips, that came hither from Batavia, but the Captain thought it was appointed to examine all fhips, that ihould have pafled the ftreight. We had now beer^ fome hours at anchor, but in the evening a light breeze fpringing up, we got under fail, yet having little wind, and a ftrong current againft us, we reached no further by eight in the morning, of the gd, than Bantam Point. We now perceived the Dutch packet ftanding after us, but the wind fhifting to the N. E. me bore away. We vrcre now obliged to anchor j which we did in twenty- two ROUND THE WORLD. two fathom water, at about two miles from the more. At fix o'clock in the evening, the country boats came alon fide of us, on board one of which was the maf- ter of the packet. They brought in them fowls, ducks, parrots, turtle, rice, birds, monkeys, and other arti- cles, with an intention to fell them, but having fixed very high prices on their commodities, and our Savn ftock being not yet expended, very few articles were purchafed. The captain indeed gave two dollars for twenty-five fowls, and a Spanifli dollar for a turtle, which weighed about fix and thirty pounds. We might alfo for a dollar have bought two monkeys, or 3, whole cage of rice-birds. The mafter of the packet brought with him two books, in one of which he de- fired of our officers, that one of them would write down the name of our Ihip and commander ; the place from whence we came ; to what port bound ; with fuch other particulars relating to ourfelves, as we might think proper, for the information of any of our countrymen who might come after us. In the other book the mat- ter himfelf entered the names of our fhip and its cap- tain, in order to tranfmit them to the governor and council of the Indies. We perceived, that in the firft book many (hips, particularly Portuguefe, had made enteries of the fame kind with that for which it was prefented to us. Mr. Hicks, our lieutenant, however, having written the name of the Ihip, only added "from Europe." The mafter of the packet took notice of this, but faid, that he was faiisfied with any thing we thought fit to write, it being intended folcly for the in- formation of our friends. Friday the fifth, we made feveral attempts to fail with a wind that would not ftem the current, and as often came to an anchor. In the morning a proa, with a Dutch officer, came along-fide of us, and fent to Cap- tain Cook a printed paper in exceeding bad Englifh, duplicates of which he had in other languages, all re- gularly figned, in the name of the governor and council of the Indies, by their feci ettry ; the contents whereof were the following enquiries, contained in nine quef- tions. i. The 262 COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE 1. The {hip's name, and to what nation fhe be- longed ? 2. If fhe came from Europe, or any other place r 3. From what place fhe had laft departed ? 4. Whercunto defigned to go ? 5. What and how many mips of the Dutch com- pany by departure from the lafl more there layed, and their names ? 6. If one or more of thefe mips, in company with the Endeavour, is departed for this or any other place ? 7. If during the voyage any particularities is hap- pened, or feen ? 8. If not any mips in fea, or the flreights of Sunda, have feen, or hailed in, and which ? 9. If any other news worth of attention, at the place from whence the fliip laftly departed, or during the voyage, is happened ? BATAVIA in the Caftle- By order of the Governor General, and the Counfellors of India, J. BRANDER BUNGL. Sec. The officer obferving, that the captain did not chufe to anfxver any of the above queflions, except the firft and fourth, he faid that the reft were not material, though it was remarked that juft afterwards he affirmed he m'u ft difpatch the paper to Batavia, at which place it would arrive by the next day. This examination was rather extraordinary, and the more fo, as it does not ieem to have been of any long ftanding. As foon as the Dutch oilicer departed, the anchor was weighed, but in four hours the fliip was forced to come to an anchor again, till a breeze fprang up ; fhe then held on her courfe till the next morning, when on .account of the rapidity of the current, the anchor was dropped again. At laft we weighed on the 8th, and ftood clear of a large ledge of rocks, which we had al- moft ran upon the preceding day. But in the fore- noon we were once more obliged to anchor near a little ifland that was not laid down in any chart on board. It ROUND THE WORLD. 263 It was found to be one of thofe called the Milles Ifles.' Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander having landed upon it, collected a few plants, and mot a bat which was a yard long, being meafured from the extreme points of the wings ; they alfo killed a few plovers on this ifland, the breadth of which does not exceed one hundred yard?, and the length five hundred; they found a houieand a little fpot of cultivated ground, and on it grew the Palma Chrifti, from which the Weft Indians make their caftor oil. In a little time after the gentlemen returned to the fhip, feme Malays came along-fide in a boat, bring- ing with them pompions, dried fim, and turtle, for fale ; one of the turtles, which weighed near one hun- dred and fifty pounds, they fold for a dollar, and feemed to expect the fame piece of money for their fruit; but itbeing hinted to them that a dollar was too much, they defired that one might be cut, and a piece of it given to them, but this not being complied with, they at length fold twenty- fix pompions for a Portugucfe pe- tacka. When they departed, they intimated their wilhes, that this tranfadtion might not be mentioned at Batavia. We now made but little way till night, when the land-breeze fpringing up, we failed to the E. S. E. and on the following day, by the afliftance of the fea-breeze, came to an anchor in the road of Batavia. At this place we found a number of large Dutch vefleis, the Harcourt Eaft-Indiaman from England, which had loft her pafTage to China, and two mips belonging to the private trade of our India company. The Endea- vour had no fooner anchored, than a ihip was oblcrvcd, with a broad pendant flying, from which a boat v\;i* difpatched to demand the name of the veflel, with that of the commander, &c. To thcfe enquiries Cap- tain Cook gave fuch anfwers as he thought proper, and the officer who commanded the boat departed. This gentleman, and the crew that attended him, were fo worn out with the unhealthinefs of the climate, that it was apparent many deaths would follow : yet at prcfcnt there was not one invalid on board of our fhip, except the COOK'S FIRST V O Y A he fpot. While Captain Cook was at Batavia, a perfon, ROUND THE WORLD. 289 perfon, whofe circumftances in life were independent, being jealous of his brother, intoxicated himfelf with opium, and then murdered his brother, and two other men who endeavoured to feize him. This man, con- trary to the ufual cuftom, did not leave his own houfe, but made his reliftance from within it ; yet he had ta- ken fiich a quantity of the opium, that he was delirious, which appeared from his attempting to fire three mut- quets, neither of which had been loaded, nor even primed. Jealoufy of the women is the ufual reafon of thefe poor creatures running amock [or a-rauck] and the firft object of their vengeance is the perfons whom they fuppofe to have injured them. The officer, whofe bufinefs it is to apprehend thefe unhappy wretches, is furnifhed with a long pair of tongs, in order to take hold of them without coming within the reach of the point of their weapon. Thofe who may be taken alive, which is not often the cafe, are generally wounded ; but they are always broken upon the wheel ; and if the pliyfician, who is appointed to examine their wounds, thinks them likely to be mortal, the punifhmcnt is in- flicted immediately, and the place of execution is gene- rally the fpot where the firft murder was committed. A number of abfurd cuftoms prevailed among thefe people, and opinions no lefs ridiculous. They believe that the devil, whom they call Satan, is the author ot ikknefs and adverfity ; therefore, when fick,orin diftrds, jthey offer meat, money, and other things, as propitia- tory facrifices. Should one among them be reitlcfs, or fhould he dream for two or three nights fuccefiively, he imagines the devil has laid his commands upon him, when, upon neglect to fulfil, he concludes his puni fo- ment will certainly be fickncfs or death, though fuch commands may not be revealed with fufficicnt pcr- -fpicuity. To interpret his dream therefore, he ftrain; his wits to the uttermoft, and if, by taking it literally, or figuratively directly, or by contraries, he can put no explanation that fati.sfics hkn, he applies to tLc Oivvin or pricft, who unravels the myfterious fuggeliionsof the night, by a comment, in which it gene: ally appears, that Satan wants viduals or money. Thcic arc nhccd No. ?. O o en 290 COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE on a little plate of cocoa-nut leaves, and hung upon the branch of a tree near the river, to that it feems not to be the opinion of thefe people, that in prowling the earth the devil " walketh through dry places." Mr. Banks once afked, whether they thought Satan fpent the money, or eat the victuals ; they faid, that as to the money it was confidered rather as a mulet upon an of- fender, than a gift to him who had enjoined it ; and that therefore if it was devoted by the dreamer, it did not fignify into whole hands it came, and they fuppofed it was generally the prize of ibme ftranger who wandered that way; but refpecling the meat, they were clearly of opinion, that, although the devil did not eat the grofs parts, yet by bringing his mouth near it, he fucked out all its favour without changing its poiition, fo that afterwards it was as infipid as water. Another fuperftitious notion of this people is ftill more unaccountable. They imagine that women, when delivered of children, are at the fame time de- livered of a young crocodile ; and that thofe animals being received carefully by the midwifes, are immedi- ately carried down to the river, and put into the writer. The family in which fuch a birth is fuppofed to have happened, conftantly puts victuals into the river for their amphibious relation, cfpecially the twin, who as long as he lives, goes down to the river at ftated times, to fulfil his fraternal duty ; for an omiflion of which, according to the general opinion, he will be vifited with ficknefs or death. We are at a lofs to account for an opinion fo extravagant and abfurd, efpecially as it feems to be unconnected with any religious myftery,and how it fliould be pretended to happen by thofe who cannot be deceived into a belief of it by appearances, nor have any apparent intereft in the fraud, is a problem ftill more difficult to folve. The ftrange belief of this ab- furdity, however, is certain, for which we had the con- current teftimony of every Indian who was queftioncd about it ; and as to its origin, it feems to have taken its rile in the iilands of Celebes and Boutou, at which places many of the inhabitants keep crocodiles in their iiies ; but however that be, this opinion has fprea.d over ROUND THE WORLD. 291 wver dl the eaftern iflands, even to Timor and Cream, and weftward as far as Java and Sumatra. The cro- .codile twins are called fudaras, and we mail here re- late one of the innumerable and incredible ftories, in proof of their exiftence, as was confidently affirmed, from ocular demonftrations ; yet for the credibility of this relation we will not vouch. At Bencoolen was born and bred among the Englifh a young female flave, who had learnt a little of the lan- guage. This girl told Mr. Banks that her father, when on his death bed, informed her that he had a crocodile for his fudara, and in a folemn manner charged her to give him meat when he ftiould be dead, telling her in what part of the river he was to be found, and by what name he was to be called up. That in confc- quence of her father's injunctions, fhe repaired to that part of the river he had defcribed, and ftanding upon the bank, called out Radja Pouti, "white king;" where- upon the crocodile came to her out of the water, and eat from her hand the provifions me had brought him. Being defired to defcribe this paternal uncle, ihc laid, that he was not like other crocodiles, but much hand- fomer, that his body was fpottcd and his nofe red ; that he had bracelets of gold upon his feet, and ear- rings of the fame metal in his ears. This ridiculous tale was heard by Mr. Banks patiently to the end, and he then difmified the girl, without reminding her, that a crocodile with ears was as ftrange a monftcr as a clog with a cloven, foot. Not long after this a fervant whom Mr. Banks had hired at Batavia, a fon of a Dutchman by a Javanefe women, told his mafter, that he had feen a crocodile of the fame kind, and it had been feen by feveral others both Dutchmen and Malays. This crocodile the fervant faid was very young, two feet long, and its feet were ornamented with bracelets of gold. I cannot credit thefe idle ftories, faid Mr. Banks. The other day a perfon aflerted that crocodiles had ear- rings, and you know that cannot be true, becaufe cro- codiles have not ears. Ah, Sir, replied the man, thefo fudara oran are unlike other crocodiles ; for they have five toes upon each foot, a large tongue that fills their O o "t mouth, 2 of human nature, in 294 COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE transferring a regard for the living to the dead, and making that an object of folicitude and expence, which cannot receive the leaft benefit from either. Under the influence f this univerfal prejudice, they take an uncommon method to preferve the body entire, and t prevent the remains of it from mixing with the earth that furrounds it. To this end they enclofe it in a large thick wooden coffin, hollowed out of folid timber like a canoe. This when covered and let down into the grave, is furrounded \vith a coat of mortar, called chinam, about eight or ten inches thick, which in a Ihort time cements, and becomes as hard as ftone. The relatives of the deceafed attend the funeral ceremony, with a confiderable number of female mourners, hired to weep. In Batavia, the law requires, that every man ihould be interred according to his rank, which is in no cafe to be difpenfed with ; fo that if the deceafed has not left fufficient to pay his debts, an officer takes an inventory of what was in his pofleffion when he died, and out of the produce buries him in the man- ner prefcribed, leaving only the overplus to his creditors. The loweft clafs of people in this country are the flaves, by whom the Dutch, Portuguefe, and Indians, whatever their rank or lituation , are conftantly attended . They are bought in Sumatra, Malacca, and almoft all the Eaftern Iflands: but'the natives of Java, very few of whom live in Batavia, are exempted from flavery, under the fanclion of very fevere penal laws, fcldom we believe violated. Thefe flaves are fold from ten to twenty pounds ilerling each ; but girls, if handfome, will fetch fome times a hundred. Being of an indolent difpofition, they will not do much work, and are there- fore content with a little victuals, fubfifting altogether upon boiled rice, and a fhvall quantity of the cheapeft fifh. They are natives of different countries, on which account they differ from each other extremely both in perfon and temper. The Papua, as they are here called, or the African negroes are the worft, moft of them thieves and all incorrigible ; coniequently they may be purchafed for the Icaic money. The next clafs to thefe are the Bougis and Macaffars, both from the ifland of Celebes; ROUND THE WORLD. Celebes ; who, in the higheft degree are lazy, though not fo much addicted to theft as the negroes ; yet they are of a cruel and vindictive fpirit, whereby they are rendered exceeding dangerous, efpecially as to gratify their refentment, they make no fcruple of any means, nor of facrificing life itfelf. Befides thefe there are Malays and flaves of other denominations: but the beft, and of courfe the deareft, are thole brought from the ifland of Bali; and the moft beautiful women from Nias, a fmall ifland on the coaft of Sumatra ; but being _of a tender and delicate conftitution, they quickly fall a facrifice to the unwholefome air of Batavia. All thefe Haves are wholly in the power of their mafters, who may inflict upon them any punimment that does not take away life ; and mould one die in confequence of punifh- ment, though his death may be proved not to have been intended, yet the matter is called to a fevere ac- count, and generally fentenced to fuffer capitally. For this reafon a matter feldom corrects a flave with his own hands, but by an officer called a marineu, one of whom is ftationed is every diftricl:. The duty of this oflicer is to quell riots, and take offenders into cuftody ; but more particularly to apprehend runaway flaves, and punifti them for fuch crimes as the matter has fupport- ed by proper evidence ; thepunifliment, however, is not inflicted by the marineu in perfon, but by flaves who arc appointed to the bufmefs. The punifhment is ftripes, the number being proportioned to the nature of the of- fence ; and the'inftruments are rods made of rattans, which are fplit into tender twigs for the purpofc, und every ftrokc draws blood. A common punilhment coils the matter a rixdollar, and a fevere one a ducatoon, about fix fhillings and eight-pence. The matter is alfo obliged to allow a flave, as an encouragement, three dubbelcheys, equal to about fevcn-pcnce half-penny a week j this is alfo done to prevent his indulging his ftrong temptations to fteal. Refpecting the government of this place we can fay but little. We observed a remarkable fubordinatiun among the people. Every hout'c-kecpcr has a certain fpccific rank, according to the Ungth of time lie has fervcd COOK'S -f i R 'S T VOYAGE fervecl the company. The different ranks thus acquired are diiiinguiihed by the ornaments of the coaches, and the dreffes of the coachmen : fome ride in plain coaches, feme ure allowed to paint them with different devices, and fome to gild them. The coachmen alfo are obliged to appear in clothes quite plain, or ornamented in va- rious manners and degrees. The chief officer in this place has the title of go- vernor-general of the Indies, to whom the Dutch go- vernors of all other fettlements are fubordinate ; and they are obliged to repair to Batavia in order to have their accounts pafled by him. Should they appear to have been criminal, or even negligent, he detains them during pleafure ; fometimes three years ; for -they can- not without his permiilion quit the place. The mem- bers of the council, called by the natives Eclele Heeren, and by the Englifh, Idoleers, are next in rank to the governor-general. Theie affume fo much ftate, that whoever meets them in a carriage, are expecled to rife up and bow, and after this compliment, they drive to one fide of the road and ftop, till the members of the council arc pad : their wives and children expect alfo the fame homage, and it is commonly paid them by the inhabitants. Some Englifh Captains have thought this a flavifh mark of rcfpedt, derogatory to their dig- nity as fervants of his Britannic majcfty, and for this reaibn have refufed to pay it ; neverthelefs, when in a hired coach, nothing but a menace of immediate death could prevent the coachman from honouring the Dutch grandee, at the expence of their mortification. With refpecl to the diftribution of juftice, it is ad- minifteredin Batavia by the lawyers, who have peculiar ranks of diftimfHon among themfelves. Their deci- fion-s in criminal cafts feem to be fevere with refpecl: to the natives, but lenient in a partial degree to their own people. A chriftian is always indulged with an op- portunity of efcaping before he is brought to trial, whatever may be his offence, and when convicted, he is feldom punimed with death. On the contrary, the poor Indians are hanged, broken upon the wheel, and even impaled alive. As -to. the Malays and Chincfc, thcv ROUND THE WORLD. 297 they have judicial officers of their own, named captains and lieutenants, who determine in civil cafes, fubject to an appeal to the Dutch tribunal. The taxes laid upon thefe people by the company are very con fiderable, among which, that exacted for liberty to wear their hair is not the leaft. The time of payment is monthly, and to fave the charge and trouble of collecting- them, notice is given of this by hoifting a flag upon the top of a houfe in the middle of the town, and the Chinefe find that it is their intereft to repair thither when a pay- ment is due without delay. At Batavia the current moneyconfifts of ducates, va- lued at one hundred and thirty- two ftivers ; ducatoons, eighty ftivers : imperial rix-dollars, fixty ; rupees, thirty j fchellings, fix; double cheys, two {livers and a half; and doits one fourth of a ftiver. During our flay here Spanifli dollars were at five and five-pence ; and \ve were told they were never lower than five millings and four- pence, even at the company's warehoufe. ForEnglifli guineas the exchange upon an average was nineteen fhillings j for though the Chinefe would give twenty Ihillings for fome of the brighteft, thofe that were much worn were valued at only feventeen millings. There are two forts of coin current here of the fame denomination ; thefe are milled and unmilled ; the former of which is of moft value. A milled ducatoon is valued at eighty ftivers; and an unmilled one at no more than feventy-two. A rix-dollaris equal to forty-eight ftivers, about four fliillings and fix-pence Englifh cur- rency. All accounts are kept in rix-dollars and ftivers, which here, at leaft, are nominal, like our pound fter- ling. On Thurfday, the 27th of December, early in the morning, we weighed, left the harbour of Batavia, and ftood out to fea. On the zpth, after much delay by- contrary winds, we weathered Pulo Pare, and ftood for the main. On the fame day parted a fmall ifhnd between Batavia and Bantam, called Maneater's ifland. On Sunday the 3oth, we weathered Wappingand Pub Babi iflands, and the next day, being the 3 ift. we ftood over to the Sumatra more. No. 10. P P On 298 COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE On the morning of this new year's day, being Tnef- y, ^^ day, January the ifl, we fteerecl for the * ' ' I 77 I - "Java fhore, and continued our courfe, as the wind permitted us, till three o'clock in the after- noon of the 5th, when we caft anchor on the fouth- eaft fide of Prince's Iflandf, in eighteen fathom Ma- ter, in order to recruit our ftores, and procure refrefh- merrts for the fick, many of whom were much worfe than they were at our departure from Batavia. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solandar, accompanied by the captain and other gentlemen, went afliore. We met upon th beach fome Indians, by whom we were conducted to one, who, they faid, was their king. Having ex- changed a few compliments with this perfon,we entered upon bufinefs, but in fettling the price of turtle could not agree. Upon this we took leave, the Indians dif- perfed ; and we proceeded along fhore in fearch of a watering-place. We happily fucceeded in finding a very convenient one, and had no reafon to believe, with care in filling, it would prove agreeable to- our wifhcs. On our return, fome Indians, who remained with a canoe upon the beach, fold us three turtle, but we were obliged to promife, that \ve would not tell the king. On Sunday the 6th, we renewed with better fuccefs our traffic for turtle. About noon the Indians lowered their demands flowTy, infomuch, that before the even- ing they accented our ftipulated price, and we had tur- tle in plenty. In the mean time, the three we Jaad pur- chafed were ferved to the fhip's company, who, tiM yefterday, had not fed on fait provisions from the time of our arrival at Savti, which was now near three months. Mr. Banks, in the evening, paid a vifit to the king, by whom he was received very gracroully at his palace, in the middle of a rice field, notwithftanding his niajefty was bufily employed in drefling his own fuppcr. The day following, Monday the 7th, the In- dians reforted to the trading place with fowls, Mm, monkeys, fmal'l deer, and fome vegetables; but no tur* tic appeared till next day, Tuefday the 8th, after which fome were brought to market every day , while we ftaicl, bus ROUND THE W r , R L D, , :# frnt the whole quantity together was not equal to that we bought the clay after our arrival. Friday the i ith, Mr. Banks having received intelli- gence from a fervant he had hired at Batavia, that the Indians of this ifland had a town fituated near thefhorc, to the weftward, he determined to go in fearch of the lame. With this view he fet out in the morning, ac- companied by the fecond lieutenant ; and apprehend- ing his vifit might not be agreeable to the natives, he told fiich of them as he met, that he was in fearch of plants, which was indeed alfo true. Having come to a place where there were three or four houfes, they met with an old man, of whom they ventured to make a few enquiries concerning the town. He would have perfuaded them, that it was at a great diftancc ; but perceiving they proceeded forward, he joined company, and went on with them. The old man attemped fe- veral times to lead them out of the way, though with- out fuccefs ; but when at length they came within fight of the houfes, he entered cordially into their party, and conducted them into the town, the name of which is Samadaag. It confifts of about four hundred houfes, and is divided by a brackim river into two parts, one calkd the old, and the other the new town. When they had entered the former, they were accorted by fe- veral Indians whom they had feen at the trading place, and one of them undertook to carry them over to the cew town, at two-pence per head. The bargain be- ing made, they embarked in two fmall canoes, placed along-fide of each other, and lafhed together, to pre- vent their over-fetting. They fended fafely, though not without fome difficulty ; and when they came to the new town, the people ihewcd them every mark of a cordial friendlhip, ihewing them the houfes of their king and principal people. Few of the houfes were open at this time, the inhabitants having taken up their reficlence in the rice-grounds, to defend their crops againft the birds and monkeys, who without this neceflary precaution would deftroy them. When their curiofity was fatisfied, they hired a large failing boat P p 2 for too COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE for two rupees, value four {hillings, which conveyed them to the bark time enough to dine upon one of the fmall deer, weighing only forty pounds, which proved to be exceeding good and favory food. In the evening we aga'in went on fhore, to fee how our people went on, who were employed in wooding and watering, when we were told, that an axe had been ftolen. Application was immediately made to the king, who, after fbme altercation, promifed, that the axe fhould be reftored in the morning ; and it was accordingly brought to us by a man, who pretended, that the thief, afraid of a difcovery, had left it at his houfe in the night. On Sunday, the i^th, having nearly compleated our wood and water, Mr. Banks took leave of his majefty, to whom he had made ieveral trifling prefents* and at parting gave him two quires of paper, which he gra^ cioufly accepted. During their converfation, the king enquired, why the Englilh did not touch at the ifland as they had ufed to do. Mr. Banks replied, that the reafon was, he fuppofed, becaufe they found a deficiency of turtle, of which there not being enough to fupply pne fhip, many could not be expected ; and to fupply this defect, Mr. Banks advifed his majefty to breed cat- tle, buffaloes, and fheep ; but he did not feem difpofed to adopt this prudent meafure, On Monday, the i^th, we had got on board a good ftock of frefh provifions, confiding of turtle, fowl, fim, two fpecies of deer, one about the fize of a ftieep, the other not bigger than a rabbit ; alfo cocoa-nuts, plantains, limes, and other vegetables. The deer, however, ferved only for prefent ufe, for we could fel- dom .keep one of them alive more than twenty-four hours. The trade on our parts, was carried on chiefly with Spanifh dollars, the natives feeming not to fet value upon any thing elfe ; fo that our people who had a ge- neral permiilion to trade, parted with old fhirts and other articles, which they were obliged to fubflitute for money to great difadvantage. On Tuefday, the ijth, in the morning, we weighed, with a light breeze at N. E. ROUND THE WORLD. 3Ol N. E. and flood out to fea. We took our departure from Java Head, which is in latitude 6 deg. 49 min. S. and in longitude 253 deg. 12 min. Weft. Prince's Ifland, where we were flationed about ten days, in the Malay language, called Pulo Selan, and in that of the inhabitants, Pulo Paneitan, is a fmall ifland, fituated in the weftern mouth of the ftreight of Sunda. It is woody, a very fmall part of it having been cleared. We could perceive no remarkable hill upon it ; but a fmall eminence, juft over the landing place, has been named, by the Englifh, the Pike. For- merly this place was much frequented by India mips belonging to various nations, efpecially from England ; but of late they have forfaken it, becaufe the water is bad, and touch either at North Ifland, or at New Bay, afevv leagues diftant from Prince's Ifland, at neither of which places any considerable quantity of other pro- vifions can be procured ; and, upon the whole, we muft give it as our opinion, that Prince's Ifland is more eligible than either of them ; for though, as we have already obferved, the water is brackifh, if filled at the lower part of the brook, yet higher up we found it excellent. The firft, fecond, and perhaps the third fhip, that arrives here in the feafon, may be well fupplied with turtle ; but fuch as come afterwards muft be content with fmall ones. What we purchafed were of the green kind, and coft us, at an average, about three fir- things a pound. They were neither fat nor well fla- voured, which circumftance we imputed to their being long kept in pens of brackifh water, without food. The fowls are large, and we bought a dozen of them for a Spanim dollar, which is about five pence a piece. The fmall deer coft us two-pence a piece, and the larger, two only of which were brought to market, a rupee. The natives fell many kinds wf fifh by hand, and we found them tolerably cheap. Cocoa-nuts, if they were picked, we bought at the rate of a hundred for a dollar ; and if taken promifcuoufly, one hundred and thirty. Plantains we found in abundance ; alfo pine- *02 Cook's FIRST VOYAGE -i pine-apples, water-melons, jaccas, and pompions, be- iicles rice, yams, and feveral other vegetables, all which we purchafed at reafonable rates. In this ifland the inhabitants are Javanefe, and their Raja is fubject to the Sultan of Bantam. In their man- ners and cuftoms they reiemble the Indians about Bata- via ; but they are more jealous- of their women, for all the time we were there, we faw not any of them, except one by chance in the woods, as me was running away to hide herfelf. They profefs the Mahomedan religion ; but not a mofque did we difcover in the whole illand. While we were among them, they kept the faft called by the Turks Ramadan, with extreme rigour, not one of them touching: a morfel of victuals, nor would they O * chew their beetle till fun fet. Their food is likewife the fame with that of the Batavian Indians, except the ad- dition of the nuts of the palm, by eating of which, upon the coaft of New Holland, ibme of our people were made lick, and fome of our hogs poifoned. We enquired by what means thefe nuts were deprived of their noxious deleterious quality, and were informed, that they firft cut them into thin flices, and dried them in the fun, then fteeped them in frefh water for three months, and afterwards, preffing out the water, dried them afecond time in the fun ; but after all, we found they are eaten only in times of fcarcity, when they mix them with their rice to make it go farther. The houfes of thcfe people are built upon piles, or pillars, and elevated about four or live feet above the ground. Upon thefe is laid a floor of bamboo canes, at Inch a diftance from dach other, as to leave a free paf- fage, for the air from below. The walls alfo are of bam- boo, interwoven hurdlewife, with fmall lucks, and faf- tcned perpendicularly to the beams which form the frame of the building ; it has a Hoping roof, fo well thatched with palm-leaves, that neither the fun, nor rain can find entrance. The ground plot, upon which the building is creeled, is an oblong i'quare. On the lide is the door, and in the fpace between that and the pther end of the houfe, in the center, towards the left hand, ROUND THE WORLD. hand, is a window. A partition runs out from eack end of the houfc, which continues fo far as to leave an opening oppofite the door. Euch end of the houie, therefore, to the right and left of the door, is divided into two apartments, all open towards the paflage from the door to the wall on the oppofite fide. In that on the left hand, next to the door, the children fleep , that oppofite to it is for the ufe of ftrangers 5. in the inner room, n the left hand, the mailer and his wife fleep; and that oppofite to it is the kitchen. The only diffe- rence between the poor and the rich, with refpecl to thefe houfes, confiflsin their fize : but we rauft except the royal palace, and the houfe of one Gundang, the next man in riches and influence to the king , for thofc inftead of being wattled with fticks and bamboos, arc enclofed with boards. Thefe people have occafional houfes in the rice fields, at the feafon when they are in- fefted with the birds and monkeys. They differ only from their town houfes, by being raifed ten feet inilead of four from the ground. The inhabitants of this ifland are of a good difpo- fition ; and dealt with us very honeftly ; only like other Indians, and the retailers of fifh in London, they would afk twice, and fometimes thrice as much for their com- modities as they would take. As what they brought to market belonged, in different proportions, to a con- iiderable number of the natives, they put all that was bought of one kind, as cocoas or plantains together, and when we had purchafed a lot, they divided the mo- ney that was paid for it among the proprietors, in a proportion correfponding with their contributions. Sometimes, indeed, they would change our money, giving us 240 doits, amounting to five {hillings, for a Spanifh dollar, and ninety-fix, amounting to two fliil- lings, for a Bengal rupee. The natives of Prince's Jfland have a language of their own, yet they all fpeak the Malay language. Their own tongue they callCatuGunung, the hn^uaj/e of the mountains. They fay, that their tribe originally migrated from the mountains of Java to New Bay, and COOK'S FIRST VoYAGfc then to their prefent ftation, being driven from their firft fettlement by tygers, which they found too nume- rous to fubdue. Several languages are fpoken by the native Javanefe, in different parts of their ifland ; but the language of thefe people is different from that fpoken at Samarang, though diftant only one day's journey from the refidence of the Emperor of Java. The following lift contains feveral correfponding words in the languages of Prince's Ifland, Java, and Ma- lacca. PRINCE'S ISLAND. ENGLISH. JAVANESE. MALAY. Jalma, A man. Oong Lanang, Oran Lacki Laki. Becang, A ivoirwn. QongWadong, Parampuan, Oroculatacke, A child. Lari, Anack. Holo, The head. TJndaft, Capalla. Erung, - The nofe. Ening, Edung. Mata, The eyes. Moto', Mata. Chole, The ears. Cuping, * Cuping. Cutock, - The teeth. Untu, Ghigi. Beatung, - The belly. Wuttong, - Prot. Serit, Thebackjlde. Celit, Pantat. Pimping, - The thigh. Poopoo, Paha. Hullodtoor, The knee. Duncul, - Lontour* Metis, The legs. Sickil, Kauki. Cucu, A nail. Cucu, Cucu. Langan, - A hand. Tangan, Tangan* RamoLangan, Aji?;gei\ Jari, - Jaring. In this fpecimen the "different parts of the body are cho(en,becaufe they are eafily obtained from thofe whofe language is unknown; and it is worthy of obfervation, that the Malay, the Javanefe, and the language in Prince's Ifland, have words, which if not exactly fimilar to thofe ufed in the South-Sea Iflands, are manifeftly derived from the fame fource, as will appear from the following lift. SOUTH- HOUND THE WORLD. MALAY. JAVANESE. Mata, Moto, Macan Mangan, Menum, Gnumbe, Matte, Matte, Coutou, Udian, CJdan, SOUTH- SEA. Mata, Maa, Einu, Matte, Outou, Euwa, Owhe, Eu, Mannu, Eyea, Tapao, Tooura, Udang, Eufwhe, Ubi, Etannou, Tannam, Enammou, Gnammuck, Hearu, Garru, Taro, Tallas, Uta, Utan, PRINCE'S ISLAND. Mata, Awe, 335 ENGLISH. An eye. The ear. To drink. To kill. Aloufe. Rain. Bamboo- cane. Soufou, ^ A beajl. Manny, Mannuck,^ bird. I\va * n~ _. , from which they fcarce ever deviate. Murder, adul- tery, and robbery, they conftantly pum'fh with ileath ; and, if a perfon is fufpecled of anyrof thele crime*, the whole kraal join in feizing and fecuring him ; buc the guilty perfon fometimes makes his efeape to the mountains,- where robbers and criminals like himfelf, fecure themfelves from juftice, and frequently plunder the neighbouring country; for no other kraal or nation of Hottentots will entertain a ftrangcr, unlefs he is known to them, and can give a good reafon for leaving his own kraal. If the offender is apprehended, the cap- tain affembles the people of his kraal in a day or two j who, making a ring, and fitting down upon their heels, the criminal is placed in the center of them : the witneiTes on both fides are heard, and the party fuffered to make his defence : after which, the cafe being con- fidered, the captain collects the fuffrages of the judges ; and, if a majority condemn him, the prifoner is exe- cuted on the fpot. The captain firft flrikes him with a truncheon he carries in his hand, and then the reft ok the judges fall upon him and drub him to death : then wrapping up the corpfe in his krofle or mantle, it is carried to fome place diftant from the kraal, where they bury it. In civil cafes alfo, the caufe is determined by a majority of voices, and fatisfaction immediately or- dered to the injured perfon, out of the goods of the perfon that appears to be in the wrong. There is no appeal to any other court : the king and hi* council, confifling of the captains of the kraals, never intcrpoic unlefs in matters that concern the public, or \\hcic the kraals are at variance. To which we m.iy add, that the Hottentots cattle and perfonal elhtc dciccnd to his eldeil fon : he cannot dilinheiit him, or give his effects to his other children ; but, as tor property in lands, or anv certain real eftatc, no man h- >-he wi COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE , whole country is but one common, where they feed their cattle promifcuoufly, moving from place to place, to find water or frefh pafture as necefiity requires. Even the feveral nations have no ftated bounds ; but ufe fuch tracts Of land as their anceftors did before them : it is true, their refpective limits fometimes create great dif- ferences between the feveral nations, and occafion bloody wars ; which brings us now to treat of their arms, and the arts and ftratagems they ufe in war. The arms of a Hottentot are, i. His lance, which refembles a half-pike, fometimes thrown, and ufed as a miflive weapon ; and at others, fervcs to puili with in clofe fight, the head or fpear whereof is poifoned. 2. His bow and arrows, the arrows bearded and poi- foned likewife, when they engage an enemy or wild beaft they do not intend for food. Their bows are made of iron, or olive-wood ; the firing, of the finews or guts of fome animal : the quiver is a long narrow cafe, made of the fkin of an elephant, elk, or ox, and flung at their backs, as foldiers fling their knapfacks. 3. A dart of a foot long, which they throw exceeding true, fcarce ever miffing the mark they aim at, though it is not above the breadth of half a crown ; thefe alfo are poifoned, when they engage an enemy or a wild beaft that is not to be eaten: and laftly, when they have fpent the reft of their miflive weapons, they have re- courfe to ftones, feldom making a difcharge in vain ; and, what is moil remarkable in their mooting or throwing arrows, darts, or ftones, they never ftand ftill, but are all the while (kipping and jumping from one iide to the other, poiftbly to avoid the ftones and darts of the enemy. They are all foot, and never engage on horfeback ; but have difciplined bulls or oxen taught to run upon the enemy, and to tofs and diforder them ; which thefe creatures will do with the utmoft fury on the word of command, not regarding the weapons that are thrown at them : for though the Hottentots have number of large elephants in their country, they have not yet learned the art of taming them, or training them up to war, as the military men in the Eaft Indies do. ROUND THE WORLD. do. Every able bodied man is a foldier, and poffcffed wt a let of fuch arms as has been defcribcd } and on the iummons of his prince, appears at the rendezvous with all imaginable alacrity and contempt of danger, and every man maintains himfelf while the expedition lafts. As their officers, civil and military, have no pay, fo neither do the private men expect any ; a fenfeof ho- nour,- and the public good, are the fole motives for ha- zarding their lives in their country's fervice. The Hottentots, in war, have very little conception of difcipline, nor indeed is it poffible they mould ; for the only method of railing an army, is, for the kraal captains to order the people to follow them ; the only method of maintaining one, is by hunting as they march : and the only way of deciding a difpute between two nations, is, by fighting one battle ; the fuccefs of which determines the whole affair. In an engagement, they attack with an hideous yell, fight in great confu- fion, and put more confidence in their war oxen than their own Ikill : for, as we have hinted above, thefe animals, when trained to the bufinefs, are better difci- plined and much more formidable, than the Hotten- tots themfelves. The principal inducements to their entering into a war at any time, is the prefervation of their territories. As they have no land marks or writ- ten treaties to adjuft the exact bounds of every nation, they frequently difagree about the limits of their re- fpective countries ; and, when any neighbouring nation grazes their cattle upon a fpotof ground anotherclaims, fatisfaction is immediately demanded j and, if it be not given, they make reprifals, and have recourfe to arms. But this is not the only occafion of wars amongft the Hottentots : they are not always that chafte and vir- tuous people Mr. Kolben has reprefentcd them; fomc tempting Helen (for Hottentots poflibly may appear amiable in one another's eyes, with all the greafe and carrion they are cloathed with) has fmittcn a neigh- bouring chief, perhaps, who prevails on his people to aifift him in the rape of the defired female ; and this frequently fets their tribes together by the ears. The No. ii. Vu dealing 338 COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE """^ *a^ f " * P f * * t 1 ' * T " Stealing each others cattle is another caufe of deadly ftrife ; for though each kraal punimes theft among themfelves with death, yet it is looked upon as an he- roic act to rob thofe of another nation ; at leaft the body of the people are fo backward in giving up the offender, that they frequently come to blows upon it. When they march into the field, every man follows his particular captain, the chief of his kraal: they obferve little order ; neither do they take the precau- tion of throwing up trenches to defend themfelves : and what is frill more furpiifing, have no fliields to defend themielvcs againft miffive weapons, though fbme fay they will ward off a lance or dart, and even a ftone, with a little truncheon about a foot long, which they carry in their hand. The feveral companies ad- vance to the charge, at the command of their chief ; and, when thofe in the front have fhot one flight of arrows, they retreat and make room for thofe in the rear ; and, when they have difcharged, the former ad- vance again, and thus alternately they continue till they have fpent all their miflive weapons, and then they have recourfe toftones, unlefs they are firft broken and difperfed by a troop of bulls: for the wife chiefs and ge- nerals of each fide, according to the European practice, remaining on an eminence in the rear, to obferve the fortune of the day, when they obferve their people are hard prefTed, give the word of command to their corps de referve of bulls, who break into the body of the enemy, and generally bring all intoxonfufion ; and that fide that preferves their order beft, on this furious attack of thefe bulls of Bafan, are fure to be victo- rious. The flcill of the general feems to be chiefly in managing his bulls ; who never charge each other, but fpend their whole rage upon the men. who h.ive, it feems, no clogs of Englifh breed to play againft them, or this ftratagem would be of little fervice : but we fhould have obfervcd, that as the battle always begins with horrid cries and noife, which perhaps fupplies the place of drums and trumpets ; Ib the victors infult with no lefs noife over the conquered enemy, killing all thac tali ROUND THE WORLD. fall into their hands : but they feldom fight more than one battle, fome neighbouring power ufually.intcrpoiing to make up the quarrel ; and of late the Dutch per- form this good office, between fuch nations as lie near their ietdements. From their wars with each other, \vc naturally proceed to their wars with wild beads, with which their country abounds more than any other ; thefe people, it feems, efteem it a much greater honour to have killed one of thefe foes to mankind, than an enemy of their own fpecies. Inftances are not wanting of a Hottentot's engaging fingly with the fiercefl wild beafts, and killing them ; but ufually the whole kraal Or village alTemble, when a wild beaft is difcovered in their neighbourhood, and, dividing themfelves in fmall parties, endeavour to fur- round him. Having found their enemy, they ufually fet up a great cry, at which the frighted animal endea- vours to break through and efcape them : if it prove to be a rhinoceros, an elk, or elephant, they throw their lances at him, darts and arrows being tqo weak to pierce through their thick hides : if the beaft be not killed at the firlt difcharge, they repeat the attack, and load him with their fpeai s ; and, as he runs with all his rage at the perfons who wound him, thofe in his rear follow him clofe, and ply him with their fpears, on whom he turns again, but is overpowered by his enemies, who conftantly return to the charge, when his back is to- wards them, and fcarce ever fail of bringing the crea- ture down, before he has taken his revenge on any of them. How hazardous foever fuch an engagement may appear to an European, thcfc people make it their fport; and have this advantage, that they are exceed- ing fwift of foot, and fcarce ever mils the mark they aim at with their fpears : it one of th,em is hard prcfled by the brute, he is lure to be relieved by his compa- nions, who never quit the field till the bcaft is killed, or makes his eicape : though they fornetimcs dcxte- roufly avoid the adverfary, they immediately return ty the charge, fubduing the fiercelt either by itratagcm or force. When attacking a lion, a leopard, or a tyger, U u 2 their COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE their darts and arrows are of fervice to them ; and therefore they begin the engagement at a greater dii- tance, than when they charge an elephant or rhino-> ceros ; and the creature has a wood of darts and arr rows upon his back, before he can approach his ene-r mies, which make him fret and rage and fly at them with the greateft fury; but thofe he attacks, nimbly avoid his paws, while others purfue him, and fininfli the conqueft with their fpears. Sometimes a lion takes to his heels, with abundance of poifoned darts and arrows in his flefti : but, the poifon beginning to operate, he foon falls, and becomes a prey to thofe he would have preyed upon. The elephant, the rhino- ceros, and the elk, are frequently taken in traps and pitfalls, without any manner of hazard. The ele- phants are obferved to go in great companies to water, following in a file one after another, and ufually take the fame road till they are difturbed: the Hottentots there- fore dig pits in their paths, about eight feet deep, and four and five over ; in which they fix fharp ftakes pointed with iron, and then cover the pit with fmall fticks and turf, fo as it is not difcernable and as thefe animals ufually keep in one track, frequently one or other of them falls in with his fore feet into the pit, and the ftake pierces his body ; the more he ftruggles, the deeper the weight of his monftrons body fixes him on the ftake. When the reft of the herd obferve the mis- fortune of their companion, and find he cannot difen- gage himfelf, they immediately abandon him : where- upon the Hottentots, who lie concealed, in expectation of the fuccefs of their ftratagem, approach the wound- ed beaft, flab him with their fpears, and cut his largeft veins, fo that he foon expires ; whereupon they cut him to pieces, and, carrying the flefh home, feaft upon it as long as it lafts. His teeth they make into rings for their arms, and, when they have any ivory to fpare, difpofe of it to the Europeans. The rhinoceros and elk are frequently taken in pitfalls, as the elephants are. Tl>e Hottentot, who kills any of thefe, or a lion, leo- pard, or kyger, fingly, has the higheft honour conferred upon ROUND- THE WORLD. upon him, and feveral privileges, which belong only to fiich intrepid heroes. At his return from his hazard- ous and important fervice, the men of the kraal depute one of the feniors to congratulate him on his viclory, and defire that he will honour them with his prefence- whereupon he follows the old deputy to the afiembly* whom he finds, according to cuftom, fitting upon their heels in a circle ; and, a mat of diftinction being laid for him in the center, he fets himfclf down upon it : after which the old deputy urines plentifully upon him, which the hero rubs in with great eagernefs, having firlt fcratched the greafe off his fkin with his nails ; the de- puty all this while pronouncing fome words unintelli- gible to any but themfelves. After this, they light a pipe of tobacco, which they fmoke and hand one to another till there remain nothing but afhes in the pipe, and thefe the old deputy ftrews over the gallant man, who rubs them in as they fall upon him, not fuffering the leaft duft to be loft, After which the neighbours having feverally congratulated him on his advancement to the high honour, they difperfe, and go to their re- fpeclive tents. The conqueror, afterwards, faftens the bladder of the furious beaft he has killed to his hair, which he ever after wears as a badge of his knight- hood ; and is from that time efteemed by every one a brave man, and a benefactor to his country. When retired to his tent, his neighbours feem to vie which of them mail oblige him moil, and are, for the next three days, continually fending him one delicious morfel or other ; nor do they call upon him to perform duty du- ring that time, but fuffer him to indulge his cafe : but, what is ftill more unaccountable, his wife, or wives, (for he may have more than one) are not allowed to come near him for three days after this honour is conferred on him ; but they are forced to ramble about the fields, and to keep to a fpare diet, left they ihoukl, as Mr. Kolben furmifes, tempt the hufbands to their embraces: but on the third day in the evening, we are told the wo- men return to the tent, are received with the utmoft joy and tenderneis j mutual congratulations pafs be- tween 342 COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE tween them ; a fat fheep is killed, and their neighbours invited to thefeaft, where the prowefs of the hero, and the honour he has obtained, are the chief fubjee time fix men, armed with imif- quets, paraded upon the beach. The commanding ofiicer in the boat did not think it prudent to rilk the lives of his men, on account of a few cabbages, and therefore returned without them to themip. To this ifland the Dutch at the Cape banifli fucii criminal are not thought worthy of death, for a certain number of years, according to the nature of their crimes. They are employed as Haves in digging JinuMlone, which though Icarcc upon the continent is here in grc.it abun- dance. A Danifli ihip touched at this iihml, h.uin^ been rcfufcd afliftance at the c.ipc, and fending IKT boat on more, ovcrr-owen-d (hc-iurd, uiiii then took Z 2 364 C o o K *s FIRST VOYAGE as many of the criminals as were neceilary to navigate her home ; for me had loft great part of her crew by iicknefs. To this incident we attributed our repulfe ^ concluding, that the Dutch, to prevent a fimila.' reicue of their prifoners, had ordered their garrifon at this place, not to fuffer any boat of foreign nations to land the crew, and come afhore. On Thurfday the ajth, we put to fea, and about four o'clock in the afternoon died our mafter, Mr. Ro- bert Mollineux, a youth of good parts, but unhap- pily for his own felf prefervation too much addicted to intemperance, a habit we would caution all thofe whq undertake long voyages to avoid, if they have any re- gard to th*ir perfonal fafety. We now continued our voyage without any other remarkable incident ; and oil Monday the 29th, we croffed our firft meridian, hav- ing circumnavigated the globe from K. to W. and con- iequently loft a day, for which upon correcting our rec- koning at Batavia, we made an allowance. On Monday the lit of May, we came to anchor at break of day, be- fore James's fort in the iiland of St. Helena ; and as we propofed to refrefh here, Mr. Banks employed his time in viliting the moil remarkable places, and in furvey- ing every object worthy of notice. St. Helena is fituated in the Atlantic ocean, in fix degrees W. longitude, and iixteen S. latitude, almoit in the midway between Africa and America, being twelve hundred miles diftant from the former, and eighteen hundred from the latter. It was fo named by the Portuguefe, who difcovered it on St. Helenas-day. This iiland is 36 miles long, 18 broad, and about 6 i in circumference. It is the iummit of an immenfe moun- tain rifingout of the fea, and of a depth unfathormble at a fmall diftance round it. It may be difccrned at fea, at above twenty leagues diftance, and looks like a caftle in the middle of the ocean, whole natural walls are of that height, that there is no icaling them. The fmall valley called Chapel-valley, in a bay on the eait iide of it, is defended by a battery of forty or fifty great suns, KOUND THE WORLI. 365 guns, planted even with the water; and the waves dafli- mg perpetually on the ihore, make it difficult laiidiiio- even here. There is alfo one littlecreek befides, where two or three men may land at a time ; but this is now defended by a battery of five or fix guns, and rendered inaccefiible. , No anchorage is to be found any where about the ifland, but at Chapel-valley bay, and a* the wind always lets from the S. E. if a fliip overftioots the ifland ever fo little, me cannot recover it again. The feat of volcanoes has been found to be the higbeft part of the countries in which they are found. Hecla is the higheft hill in Iceland ; and the Peak of Teneriffe is known to be the covering of fubterraneous fire. Thefe arc ihll burning : but there are other mountains which bear evident marks of fire that is now extinct .- among thefe is St. Helena, where the inequalities of the ground, and its external furface, are evidently the effects of the finking of the earth ; and that this was caufed by futerraneous fire, is equally manifeft from the ftones, for fome of them, efpecially thofe in the bottom of the valleys, are burnt almoft to cinders. This ifland, as the Endeavour approached it on the windward fide, appeared like a rude heap of rocks, bounded by pre- cipices of an amazing height, and confiding of a kind of {lone, which mews not the leaft fign of vegetation : norisit more promifing upon a nearer view. Sailing along fhore, we came near the huge cliffs, that feemed to overhang the (hip, At length we opened Chapel-valley, which refembles a trench, and in this valley wedifcovered the town. The fides of it are as naked as the chits next the fea ; but the bottom is flightly cloathed with her- bage. In its prefent cultivated Rate, fuch appeared the ifland to us ; and the firft hills muft be pafil-d, before the country difplays its verdure, or any other marks of fertility* In Chapel-valley, a little beyond the landing place, is a fort where the governor rcfidcs with the garrifon ; and the town ftands juft by the fea- fide. The greater part of the houfcs are ill built. The church, which WM COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE was originally a mean ftrudure, is in ruins ; and the market-place nearly in the fame condition. The town confifts of about forty or fifty buildings, conftructed after the Englifh fafhion, whither the people of the iiland refort when any mipping appears, as well to aflift in the defence of the illand, as to entertain the teamen if they are friends : for the governor has always fentinels, on the higheft part of the ifland, to the wind- ward, who give notice of the approach of all {hipping, and guns are thereupon fired, that every man may rer fort to his poft. It is impofiible for an enemy to ap- proach by fea in the night time, and if difcovered the day before, preparations arc fpecdily made for his re- ception. Notwithftanding the ifland appears a barren rock on every fide, yet on the top it is covered with a fine layer of earth, producing grain, fruits, and herbs of various kinds ; and the country after we afcended the rock, is diverlified with rifing hills and plains, plantations of fruit trees and kitchen gardens, amo^g which the houfes of the natives are interfperfed, and in the open fields are herds of cattle grazing, fome of which are fatted to fupply the mipping, and the reft furnifli the dairies with milk, butter, and cheefe. Hogs, goats, turkeys, and all manner of poultry alfo abound, and thefeasare well ftored with fifli. But amidft all this affluence, the people have neither bread nor wine of their own growth ; for though the foil is proper for wheat, yet the rats that harbour in the rocks, and cannot be deftroyed, eat up all the feed, before the grain is well out of the ground ; and though their vines flourifli and produce them grapes enough, yet the latitude is too hot for making vine. This they have therefore from the Canaries, the Madeiras, or the Cape, as well as their flour and malt. Their very houfes are fome of them brought from Europe ready framed, there being no timber on the ifland, trees not taking deep root here on account of the rock that lies fo near the furface : however, they have underwood enough for neceffary ufes. RotTKD THE WORLD. ufes. Befides grapes, they have plantains, bananas, figs, lemons, and fuch other fruits as hot countries ufually produce. They alfo raife kidney beans, and fome other kinds of pulfe in their gardens -, and the want of bread they fupply with potatoes and yams. In the year 1701, there were upon the ifland about two hundred families, moft of them Englifh, or de- fcended from Englifh parents. Every family has a houfe and plantation on the higher part of the ifland, where they look after their cattle, fruits, and kitchen garden. They fcarce ever come down to the town, unlefs it be to church, or when the fhipping arrives, when moft of the houfesin the valley are converted into punch-houfes, or lodgings for their guefts, to whom they fell their poultry x and other commodities; but they are not fufiered to purchafe any merchandize of the mips that touch here. Whatever they want of foreign growth or manufacture, they are obliged to buj at the company's warehoufe, where twice every month, they may furnifh themfelves with brandy, European or Cape wines, Batavia arrack, malt, beer, fugar, tea, coffee, china, and japan-ware, linen, calicoes, chintz, muflins, ribbands, woollen-cloth and fluffs, and ail manner of cloathing, for which they are allowed fix months credit. Among the very few native produc- tions of this ifland muft be reckoned ebony, though the trees are now nearly extinft. Pieces of this wood aie frequently found in the valleys of a fine black colour, and a Inrdnefs almoft equal to iron ; thefe pieces, how- ever, are fo fhort and crooked, that no ufe can be made of them. There are few infecis here, but upon the tops gf the higheft ridges a fpecies of fnail is found, which has probably been there fmce the original creation of their kind. It is indeed very difficult to conceive how any thing not formed here, or brought hither by the diligence of man, could find its way to a place fo fevered from the reft of the world, by fcas of immenfc extent. The Portuguefe, who difcovered this ifland in 1502, fturcd COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE ftored it with hogs, goats, and poultry, and ufed to touch at it for water and freili provifions in their re- turn from India ; but we do not find they ever planted a colony here ; or, if they did, having deferted it after- wards, the Englifh Eaft-lndia Company took pofTeffion of the iiland A. D. 1600, and held it till 1673, without interruption, when the Dutch took it by furprize. How- ever, the Engliih, commanded by Capt. Munden, re- covered it again within the fpace of a year, and took three Dutch Eaft India mips that lay in the road at the fame time. The Hollanders had fortified the land- ing place, and planted batteries of great guns to pre- vent a defcent ; but the Englifh being acquainted with a fmall creek where only two men could go abreaft, climbed up to the top of the rocks in the night time, and appearing next morning at the backs of the Dutch, they threw down their arms, and furrendered theifland without ftriking a ftroke : but, as we have before obferved, this creek has been fince fortified : fo that there is now no place where an enemy can make a defcent with any probability of fuccefs. The affairs of the Eaft-lndia Company are managed here by a governor, deputy-governor, and ftorehoufe- keeper, who have certain fettled falaries allowed, be- iides a public table, well furnifhed, to which all com- manders, matters of mips, and eminent pailengers are welcome. The natives fometimes call the refult of their deliberations fevere impofitions ; and though re- lief might perhaps be had from the company in Eng- land, yet the unavoidable delays in returning anfwers to addrefles at that diftance puts the aggrieved under great hardlhips ; and on the other hand, was not the iituation of this ifland very ferviceable to our home- ward-bound Eaft-lndia {hips, the conftant trouble and expence would induce the company to abandon the ifland; for though it is furnimed with theconveniencies of life, the merchants find no other profitable com-^ modities there. The matters of the plantations keep a great many blacks, who, upon fevere treatment, hide themfelves ROUND THE WORLD. themfelves for two or three months together, keeping among the rocks by day, and roving at night for provi lions : but they are generally difcovered and taken. The children and defcendants of white people have not the lead red in their cheeks, in all other places near the tropics ; but the natives of St. Helena are re- markable for their ruddy complexions and robuft con- ftitutions. Their healthfulnefs may, in general, be afcribed to the following caules. They live on the top of a mountain always open to the fea breezes that con- ilantly blow here : they ace ufually employed in the mod healthful exerciies of gardening and huibandry ; the iQand is frequently refrethed with moderate cooling mowers ; and no noxious fens, nor fait marines annoy them. They are ufed alfo to climb the fteep hill be- tween the town in Chapel-valley and their plantation ; which hill is fo fteep, that, having a ladder in the middle of it, they call it Ladder-hill , and this cannot be avoided without going three or four miles about; fo that they feldom want air or exercife, the great pre- iervers of health. As to the genius and temper of thefe people, they feemed to us the moil honeil, the moft inoffenfive, and the moft hofpitable people we ever met with of Englifh extraction, having Icarce any tincture of avarice or ambition. We alked fome of them, if they had no curiofity to fee the reft of the world, and how they could confine themfeives to fo finall a fpot of earth, fepanited at fuch a diihncc from the reft of mankind ? They replied, that they enjoyed the neceflaries of life in great plenty : they were nei- ther parched with exccffive heat, or pinched with cold 3 they lived in perfect lecurity ; in no danger of enemies, of robbers, wild bealts, or rigorous feaions ; and were happy in the enjoyment of a continued ftate of health : that as there were no rich men among them k.ircb planter being worth marc thin a thouiand dollars) la there were no poor io theifUnd, Qg man being wurth No, 12. 2 A 3?o COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE lefs than four hundred dollars, and confequently not obliged to undergo more labour than was neceffaVy to keep him in health. Our thoughts were now employed on returning to our native fhore ; and halving fufficiently recruited our ftores, on Saturday the 4th of May, we weighed, and failed out of the road in company with the Portland man of war, and his convoy, coniifling of twelve fail of Eaft Indiamen. . With this fleet we continued our courfe for England until Friday the loth, when per- ceiving they out-failed us, and confequently might make their port before us, Capt. Cook, for this reafon, made thefignal to fpeakwith the Portland, upon which dipt. Elliot came on board the Endeavour; to whom a letter for the admiralty was delivered, with a box, con- taining the common log books of the fhip, and the journals of fome of the officers. We did not lofe fight of the fleet till Thurfday the 2gd, when they parted from us ; and about one o'clock in the afternoon, we tail: our firft lieutenant, Mr. Hicks, an active, fkilful, judicious, and ufcful officer. He died of a confump- tion, of which lingering diforcler he difcovcred fomc iymptoms when he left England; fo that it maybe truly faid, that he was dying the whole voyage ; and his decline was very gradual till we arrived at Bata- via, from whence to the time of his diflblution, the flow confuming clifeafe gained ftrength daily. The whole Ihip's company attended the funeral rites, and in the evening we committed his body to the fea with the uiual ceremonies.. The next day the captain .ap- pointed Mr. Charles Clerk, a young man, to act in the room of jVIr,-. Hicks. We now every day drew nearer our defired haven ; but what mull be the condition of our once good fhip, the Endeavour, may eafily be imagined, from a flight recollection of the harclihips fhe had furmounted, and the dangers ihe had providentially efcaped. At this time our rigging and tails were fo weather-beaten, that ROUND THE WORLD. 371 that cveiy day fomething was giving way. However, we held on our courfb, without any material occur- rence that might endanger our fafety, till Monday the loth dF June, when, to our great joy, Nicholas Young, the boy who firft difcovered New Zealand, called out land from the maft head, which proved to be the Li- zard. The next day, being Tuefday, the eleventh, we proceeded up the channel. On Wcdnefday the i:th, with the pleafing hopes of feeing our relatives and friends, exciting fenfations not t be defcribcd by the pen of the moil able writer, we patted Beachy licad. At noon, to our inexprefliblc joy we were a-breaft of Dover; and about three o'clock, P. M. we came to an anchor in the Downs. When we landed at Deal, our mip's company indulged freely that mirth, and fociablc jollity, common to all Englifh failors upon their return from a long voyage, who as readily forget hardihips and dangers, as with alacrity and bravery they en- counter them. We cannot clofe this book \vithout joining in that general cenfure, which has becnjuflly beftowedon Dr. Hawkefworth, the late compiler of a former account of this voyage of the Endeavour. An infidel may imbibe what deiltical chimeras may be beft adapted to the gloomy temper of his mind ; but we cannot but think him highly culpable in forcing them into a work of this kind ; for though it may be faid, that, with i cfpcct to efficient and final caufes, the opinion of a general and particular Providence will form one and the fame conclufion, yet we think it is of great comfort to all men, particularly to thofe who can trace the wonders- of an almighty hand in the deep, to be fenfible ot a merciful interpofition, concerned, and ever attentive to their fupport, prefervation, and deliverance in times of danger, tefides, this fentiment of a divine agent furrrmtending, and correcting the diiordm introduced by natural and moral evil, is, undoubtedly a Icrip'urr- doftrme ; and from the deductions of the mere light 3 A 2 of 372 COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE, &c. of nature, it mufl appear unreafonable to fuppofe, that the firft Great Caufe who planned the whole grand fcheme of creation, fhould not be allowed to interfere with refpect to particular parts, or individuals," as oc- cafion, circumftances, or times may require. And .whoever has duly conlidered the wonderful protection of the Endeavour in cafes of danger the moil imminent, particularly when encircled, in the wide oqean, with j-ocks of coral, her fheathing beaten off, and her falfe- keel floating by her fide, a hole in her bottom, and the men by turns fainting at the pumps, cannot but ac- knowledge the exiftence of a Particular Providence. The hiftory of Jofeph can only afford a more linking inftance of the interpofition of a divine invifible hand. This our countrymen experienced ; and we have good authority to aflert, that our company in the Endea- vour do acknowledge, notwithflanding the private opinion of the above mentioned compiler, that the. hand of fuperior power was particularly concerned in their protection and deliverance. This omr.ifcient and omnipotent power it is the incumbent duty ot every chriftian to believe, confide in, and adore. A New g