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ROASTING, - - vi 4 69 BAKING, BOILING, STEWING, BRAISING, 60 FRYING, . . . . . . . , , . .' . . 61 SAUTEING, 62 BROILING, . ,. : ... 63 SAUCES, . . . -".. . v * ., .... .64 SOUPS, 76 FISH, . .V- .-. -* ': r - \ . - *V- ->' -* . 93 FISH SAUCES, . . . V *" * " *. HI CONTENTS. PAGE REMOVES, 117 LETTER NO. XII., 120 POULTRY, 143 FLANCS, 158 ENTREES, OR MADE DISHES, 158 LETTER NO. X11I., 178 LETTER NO. XIV., 181 DISHES WITH THE REMAINS Of LAMB, 184 EGGS, 216 GARNITURE FOR OMELETTES, 219 ENTREES OF GAME, 220 ROASTS SECOND COURSE, 227 SAVORY DISHES . . . 234 LETTER NO. XV., 244 SHELL-FISH, 250 VEGETABLES, 253 OF DIFFERENT SORTS OF PASTRY, 268 JELLIES, 286 PUDDINGS IN MOULDS, 291 PUDDINGS BOILED IN CLOTHS, 293 PLAIN BAKED PUDDINGS IN DISHES, 294 REMOVES SECOND COURSE, 296 SOUFFLE, 299 DESSERT, 305 LETTER NO. XVI., lb. COMPOTE, 307 COMPOTES Of FRUIT SIMPLIFIED, 310 SALADS OF VARIOUS FRUITS, 321 LETTER NO. XVIL, 327 LETTER NO. XVIII., 332 BEVERAGES FOR EVENING PARTIES, ib- LETTER NO. XIX., ,i ."'., 334 CONVERSATION ON HOUSEHOLD AFFAIRS, . ,....' -336 BILLS OF FARE, . ,. ..' * . ' 339 LETTER NO. XX. A NEW ALIMENT, . > "'' . 345 CARVING, . . ;: . ,. " .,*'' 346 LETTER NO. XXI. THE SEPTUAGENARIAN EPICURE, .... 348 INDEX, 351 INTRODUCTION. IN the following gossipping conversation between Mrs. B and Mrs. L , and in the two letters which follow, M. Soyer explains the motive of the work ; and, in a natural manner introduces the subject. ED. DIALOGUE BETWEEN MRS. B AND MRS. L , HER FRIEND AND VISITOR. Mrs. L. I have now, my dear Mrs. B., been nearly a fort- night at your delightful Villa, and I must say, with all truth, that I never fared better in my life, yet I am considered some- what of an epicure, as is likewise my husband ; but, of course, our means being rather limited, we are obliged to live accord- ingly. Mrs. B. Well, so must we ; and I assure you that, during the first few years of our marriage, our pecuniary resources were but small, but even then I managed my kitchen and housekeeping at so moderate an expense compared with some of our neighbors, who lived more expensively, but not so well as we did, that, when any of them dined with us, they flat- tered me with the appellation of the " Model Housekeeper," and admired the comforts of our table, but would leave with the impression that I must be the most extravagant of wives. Now, believe me, I have always prided myself, .whether having to provide for a ceremonious party or dining by ourselves, to have everything properly done and served, that, if any friends 1 INTRODUCTION. should come in by accident or on business, they were generally well pleased with our humble hospitality, and that without ex- travagance, as my husband is well convinced ; for when we dine with any acquaintance of ours he is very eager to persuade them to adopt my system of management ; for though he is no great judge of what is called the highest style of cookery, yet he does not like to live badly at any time ; as he very justly says, it matters not how simple the food, a chop, steak, or a plain boiled or roast joint, but let it be of good quality and properly cooked, and every one who partakes of it will enjoy it. Mrs. L. Nothing more true ! Mrs. B. But since you talk of limited income and economy, let me relate to you a conversation which occurred a few years ago between Mr. B. and a friend of his, who declared to him that his income would never allow him to live in such luxury, which he called a comfortable extravagance. " Extravagance !" exclaimed Mr. B., " if you have a few min- utes to spare, I will convince you of the contrary, and prove to you that such an expression is very unjust, if applied to my wife's management. Now, to begin ; what sum should you sup- pose would cover our annual housekeeping expenditure, living as we do, in a style of which you so much approve, but consider so extravagant ? there are ten of us in family, viz., myself and wife, three children, two female servants, and three young men em- ployed in my business, and including our usual Christmas party, which, of course you know, (having participated in the last two), besides two separate birthday parties of twenty each, and three juvenile petits-soupers and dances for the children upon their natal anniversaries, also a friend dropping in occasionally, which is never less than once or twice a-week." " Well, I do not know," answered our friend ; " but having nearly the same number to provide for, and in a more humble way, my ex- penses for housekeeping are never less than per annum." " Less than what ?" exclaimed Mr. B. ; " why, my INTRODUCTION. dear friend, you must be mistaken ;" at the same time ringing the bell. " I wish I were, with all my heart," was the reply, as the servant entered the room ; " Jane," said Mr. B., " ask your mistress to step this way for a few minutes ; I wish to look at her housekeeping book." But being busy at the time in the kitchen, I sent up a key for him to get it, which happened to be a wrong one, but, upon discovering the mistake, sent up the right one with an apology for not coming myself, as I was superintending the cooking of some veal broth, which the doc- tor had ordered for our poor little Henry, who was ill at the time. " Well," said his friend, " there is a wife for you ; I must confess mine can hardly find the way to the kitchen stairs." " Now !" said my husband, opening my desk, and, taking up my book, he showed him the last year's expenditure, which was . " No ! no ! that is impossible," replied the other. " But," said Mr B., " there it is in black and white." " Why, good heavens !" exclaimed he, " without giving so many parties, and also two less in family, my expenditure is certainly greater." To which Mr. B. replied, " So I should imagine from the style in which I saw your table provided the few days when we were on a visit to your house ; therefore I am not in the least astonished. Here, however, is the ac- count for the closing year just made up to the 28th December, 1848. Let us see what it amounts to, probably to 50 or 60 more." " So, so," replied the other, " that is an increase ;" " Let it be so," said Mr. B. ; " but you must remember that we are twelve months older, and as our business increases, so do we increase our comforts ; and this year Mrs. B., with the children, had a pretty little house at Ramsgate for two months, which will account for the greater part of it." Mrs. L. But, my dear Mrs. B., I am as much astonished as your friend could possibly have been. I should, however, have liked you to explain the matter ; but here comes your hus- band, who will probably initiate me in your culinary secrets. INTRODUCTION. Good morning, my dear Mr. B. I have been talking to Mrs. B. about her system of housekeeping, who was relating to me a conversation you had with a gentleman, who was surprised with its economy. I am also surprised, and should like to take a few leaves out of your most excellent book, if you will allow me. Mr. B. Certainly, my dear madam ; in my wife, without flattering her too much, you see almost an accomplished woman (in hearing such praise, Mrs. B. retired, saying, " How foolish you talk, Richard") ; she speaks two or three different languages tolerably well, and, as an amateur, is rather profi- cient in music, but her parents, very wisely considering house- hold knowledge to be of the greater importance, made her first acquainted with the keys of the store-room before those of the piano ; that is the only secret, dear madam ; and this is the explanation that I gave to my friend, who thought it a good jest and one of truth. I told him to do the same by his two daughters, which would not tfnly make them more happy through life, but transmit that happiness to their posterity, by setting an example worthy of being followed. I always say, give me a domesticated wife, and with my industry I would not change my position for a kingdom ; " Very true, very true," was my friend's answer, and we then parted. I have never seen him since nor his wife, who was probably offended at the economical propositions of her husband ; for nothing, you are well aware, is more common than for people to be offended when told the truth respecting themselves ; or perhaps she was too advanced in years to think of changing her ideas of housekeeping. I see, my dear Mrs. L., the Brougham is waiting at the gate to convey you to the railway ; allow me to see you safe to the station ; you will not have many minutes to spare, for the train will shortly be up. About an hour after the above conversation, Mrs. L. was INTRODUCTION. seen entering her cottage at Oatlands, fully resolved to follow as closely as possible the economic management of Mrs. B. ; but a little reflection soon made her perceive that she possessed only the theory, and was sadly deficient in the practice : she then determined to beg of her friend a few receipts in writing, and immediately dispatched the following letter : From Mrs. L to Mrs. B . Oatlands Cottage ; Jan. 1st, 1849. MY DEAR HORTENSE, Upon my arrival at home, I am happy to say that I found all quite well, and delighted to see me, after (to them) so long au absence as a fortnight, which my husband was gallant enough to say appeared months ; but to myself the time appeared to pass very swiftly ; for, indeed, every day I felt so much more interested in watch- ing closely how well you managed your household affairs, that, believe me, you have quite spoiled me, especially with your recherche style of cookery, which even now I cannot make out how you could do it at such moderate expense : and, apropos of cooking, Mr. L., expecting me home to dinner, had, I have no doubt, a long interview and discussion with Cook respecting the bill of fare. " Well, sir," I will suppose she said, " what can be better than a fine fat goose, stuffed with sage and ingyons ; we have a very fine 'un hanging in the larder." (You must observe, dear, that my cook is plain in every way.) " A very excellent notion that, Cook ; nothing can be better than a good goose ;" was no doubt, my husband's answer, who, although very fond of a good dinner, cannot endure the trouble of ordering it. Well, then, here I am in my little drawing-room (the window slightly open), enjoying the fresh country air, which seems to have been amal- gamated with a strong aroma from the aforesaid goose, especially the sage and onions ; and I am almost certain that the inseparable apple- sauce is burnt or upset on the stove, from the brown smoke now ascend- ing from the grating over the kitchen window. This style is now to me quite unbearable, and I mean to have quite a reform in my little estab- lishment, and first of all to bring up my daughter in the way recom- mended by Mr. B. to his friend, to make her more domesticated than I am myself, as I begin to perceive that a knowledge of household affairs is as much required as intellectual education ; and, for my part, I have INTRODUCTION. come to the determination of adopting your system of management as closely as possible ; but first, you must know, that, without your scientific advice, it will be totally impossible ; therefore I beg to pro- pose (if you can afford the time) that you will, by writing, give me the description how you lay out your breakfast-table, with the addition of a few receipts for the making of rolls and the other breakfast bread, which I so much enjoyed while with you ; even how to make toast, and more especially how you make coffee, chocolate, cocoa (tea, of course, I know). And should this meet your approbation, I mean to make a little journal, which may some day or other be useful to our families and friends. Until I hear from you I shall be waiting with anxiety for your de- cision upon this important and domestic subject. Yours very sincerely, ELOISE. From Mrs. B , in reply. Bifrons Villa ; Jan. 3d, 1849. MY DEAR ELOISE, In answer to yours, I agree, with the greatest pleasure, to contribute towards your domesticated idea, which, I must say, is very original, and ntay, as you observe, prove useful ; but why should we confine our culinary journal to breakfast only ? why not go through the different meals of the day ? that is, after breakfast, the luncheon ; then the nursery-dinner at One ; and here it strikes me that, in that series, we might introduce some receipts, to be called Comforts for Invalids ; even our servants' dinners and teas ; then the early din- ner at two or three for people in business, the parlor-dinner at six, the coffee after dinner, and even suppers for a small ball or evening party ; but all on a moderate scale, leaving the aristocratic style entirely to its proper sphere. To show my approbation of your idea, I enclose herewith the first receipt, How to make Toast. BREAKFASTS. WHEN we first commenced housekeeping, we were six in family, five of whom breakfasted together, the three young men in the shop, Mr. B , and myself. The cloth was laid by the servant girl at half-past seven precisely ; at ten minutes to eight I used to make tea, and at eight o'clock we were seated at breakfast, which was composed merely of bread and butter at discretion, fresh water cresses when plentiful, or sometimes boiled eggs, and for variation, once a week, coffee, and if in the winter, we had toast, which I never suffered any servant to prepare more than five minutes before we were seated, for, if standing any time, the dry toast becomes tough, and the buttered very greasy, and consequently unpalatable, as well as indigestible. Twenty minutes only was the time allowed for breakfast, after which the table was cleared, the cloth carefully folded and put by for the next morning, for we kept a separate one for dinner, and imposed the fine of a half- penny upon any one who should spill their tea or coffee over the cloth by carelessness. Such was always my plan when in business ; for you must know as well as myself, it is - not only the expense of the washing, but the continual wear and tear of the linen, which make such frequent washings so ruinous, but my cloth used always to look clean, and I am confident that not less than five pounds a-year were saved on that very trifling matter, and you know we thought as much then of five pounds as we perhaps now do of twenty. Before partaking of a breakfast, you must provide the mate- rials (which I always select of the best quality), and require to know how to prepare them. I shall, therefore, give you a series of every description of articles which may properly be partaken of at the breakfast-table. BREAKFASTS. FIRST SERIES OF RECEIPTS. Perhaps some housekeepers may laugh at the presumption of M. Soyer in attempting to give a formal receipt for so trifling a matter as making a piece of toast. But, in Cookery, there are no trifles. Every preparation of food, however simple, requires thought, care, and expe- rience. Among the unpleasantnesses of our breakfast-tables, there are none more common than poor toast. ED. 1. Toast. Procure a nice square loaf of bread that has been baked one or two days previously (for new bread cannot be cut, and would eat very heavy), then with a sharp knife cut off the bottom crust very evenly, and then as many slices as you require, about a quarter of an inch in thickness (I gen- erally use a carving-knife for cutting bread for toast, being lon- ger in the blade, it is more handy, and less liable to waste the bread) ; contrive to have rather a clear fire ; place a slice of the bread upon a toasting-fork, about an inch from one of the sides, hold it a minute before the fire, then turn it, hold it before the fire another minute, by which time the bread will be thor- oughly hot, then begin to move it gradually to and fro until the whole surface has assumed a yellowish-brown color, when again turn it, toasting "the other side in the same manner ; then lay it upon a hot plate, have some fresh or salt butter (which must not be too hard, as pressing it upon the toast would make it heavy), spread a piece, rather less than an ounce, over, and cut into four or six pieces ; should you require six such slices for a numerous family, about a quarter of a pound of butter would suffice for the whole ; but cut each slice into pieces as soon as buttered, and pile them lightly upon the plate or dish you intend to serve it. This way you will find a great im- provement upon the old system, as often in cutting through four or five slices with a bad knife, you squeeze all the butter out of the upper one, and discover the under one, at the peril of its life, swimming in an ocean of butter at the bottom of the dish. N.B. The warming of the bread gradually through, on both sides, is a very great improvement upon the quality of the BREAKFASTS. 9 toast ; it may give a trifle more trouble, but still it is quicker done, and much lighter. All kinds of toast require to be done the same way, but if to be served under a bird, eggs, or kidneys, it requires to be toasted drier. Being in every way an economist, I have generally saved the remnants of the loaf that have become too dry to be eaten as bread, and by just dipping them in warm water, toasting them gradually, and buttering them, I have generally found that they have been eaten in preference, but their being stale is a secret of my own, which, if divulged, would prevent their ever being eaten after. 2. Dry Toast. Ought not to be toasted until quite ready to serve ; when done, place it in a toast-rack, or standing upon its edges, one piece resting against another ; any kind of toast that has been made half an hour is not worth eating. 3. To toast Muffins (for Receipt, see No. 6.) Just open, half an inch deep, the sides of the muffins, exactly in the cen- tre, with a knife, then put your toasting-fork in the middle of the bottom, hold it a little distance from the fire, until partly warmed through, when turn it and put it again to the fire until it becomes lightly toasted, when again turn it to toast the other side ; when done, pull it open, spread a thin layer of but- ter on each side, close them together ; lay them upon a plate, then with a sharp knife divide them across the middle, and serve very hot. If more than one muffin is required, cut them all separately, and pile them lightly one upon another, on the plate; when well prepared, they are, in my opinion, a very great luxury, obtainable at a trifling expense. 4. To toast Crumpets. Crumpets stand lower in the gen- eral estimation of the public, probably from not being so dis- tingue, and having the misfortune to be cheaper than their sister muffins ; but, for all that, the poor ought never to be for- gotten, and a crumpet toasted as follows is not to be despised. Choose your crumpets fresh if possible, though they are not 1* 10 BREAKFASTS. bad after having been made three or four days ; toast them by- warming both sides first, like muffins, then give them a nice light brown color on each side, lay them in a plate, and spread some rather soft butter lightly upon each side ; cut in halves with a sharp knife, and serve ; half a pat of butter to each crumpet is quite sufficient. If you have several to serve, lay them separately upon a large hot dish ; some people lay them one upon the other, which is a very bad plan, as it causes the under ones to eat like a piece of dough, and such food cannot be wholesome. Crumpets require to be toasted rather quick. 5. To make Rolls and other Breakfast Bread. Put four pounds of flour into an earthen pan, make a hole in the cen- tre, in which put three parts of a pint of warm water, to which you add a gill of white brewer's yeast, free from bitter, mix a little flour to form a leaven, which set in a warm place to rise (it must be allowed to remain until the leaven has risen and begun to fall), then add a little salt and a pint of warm milk, form the whole into a flexible dough, which keep in a warm place for another hour ; it is then ready, and may be moulded into the form of rolls, twists, little crusty loaves, or any shapes most pleasing for the breakfast-table. 6. To make Muffins. Mix a quart of warm water in which you have dissolved a quarter of a pound of German yeast, with sufficient flour to form a stiffish batter, which let remain in a warm place four hours, then stir the mixture down, and break it into pieces weighing a quarter of a pound each, which mould round with your hands, and put into wooden trays containing a round bed of flour for each ; let them remain in a warm place two hours to prove, when have your muffin-stove hot ; have a round piece of iron ; place on the fire to get hot ; set the muffins upon it, and when nicely risen, turn them gently over, baking them upon the stove until sufficiently set, when they are done ; they will take about ten minutes baking if the stove is at the proper heat, which is known by throwing a little flour on it and becoming brown. Muffins may also be made of brewer's yeast, but then they would require longer proving, and great care must be taken that the yeast be not bitter. BREAKFASTS. 11 7. To make Crumpets. Mix a gill of brewer's yeast, free from bitter, with two quarts of water, just lukewarm, to which add sufficient flour to make a thinnish batter, and let it stand six hours in a warm place, when stir it well with a wooden spoon, and let it remain four hours longer ; have the muffin- stove hot, upon which lay a number of tin hoops, the size of crumpets, pour a small ladleful of the batter into each hoop, and when the top is covered with small bladders, turn them quickly over (hoops and all) with a large palate knife, and hi about five minutes afterwards they will be sufficiently baked. 8. Rusks. Put three pounds of flour upon a dresser, make a hole in the middle, into which put two ounces of German yeast, dissolved in a pint of warm water, mix a little of the flour in, and leave it half an hour in a warm place to rise, then add two ounces of powdered sugar, and a quarter of a pound of butter, dissolved in half a pint of warm water ; mix the whole into a dough, and let it remain in a warm place until well risen, when work it down with the hands, divide it in three pieces, each of which form into a long roll about two inches in thickness, place them upon a buttered baking-sheet, four inches apart, and put them in a warm place to prove, oc- casionally moistening the tops with milk ; bake them in a mod- erate oven ; when cold, cut them in slices the thickness of a penny piece, which lay upon a clean baking-sheet, and put into a warm oven, when well browned upon one side, turn them over, put them again into the oven until the other side is browned, when they are done and ready for use. 9. Tops and Bottoms. Make a dough exactly as described in the last, but using only half the butter ; have a deep- edged baking-sheet well buttered, and when the dough is ready, turn it on to a dresser, well floured ; divide into small pieces the size of walnuts, which mould into round balls, and place close together upon the baking-sheet ; put them in a warm place to prove, and bake well in a moderate oven ; when cold, divide and cut each one in halves (making a top and bottom) which brown in the oven as directed for rusks. 12 BREAKFASTS. 10. Buns. Put three pounds of flour in an earthen pan, make a hole in the middle, in which put two ounces of German yeast, dissolved in three parts of a pint of warm water, and stir in a little of the flour, forming a thinnish batter, let it remain in a warm place nearly an hour, until well fermented, when add half a pound of sugar, a few currants, and half a pound of butter, dissolved in nearly a pint of warm milk, mix the whole well together, making a soft but dry dough ; let it remain in a warm place until it rises very light, when turn it out of the pan on to a board ; work it well with the hands, shaking flour over lightly, then mould it into small round balls, double the size of walnuts, which place upon a buttered baking-sheet, four inches apart ; moisten the tops with milk ; put them in a warm place to prove, not, however, permitting them to crack, and bake them in a hot oven. 11. Brioche Rolls. Put four pounds of flour upon a dres- ser, one pound of which put on one side, make a hole in the middle into which pour nearly three parts of a pint of warm water, in which you have dissolved an ounce of German yeast ; mix it into a stiff but delicate paste, which roll up into a ball : cut an incision across it, and lay it in a basin well floured, in a warm place, until becoming very light, then make a large hole in the centre of the three pounds of flour, into which put half an ounce of salt, two pounds of fresh butter, half a gill of water, and sixteen eggs, mix it into a rather softish flexible paste, which press out flat, lay the leaven upon it, folding it over and working with the hands until well amalgamated, flour a clean cloth, fold the paste in it and let remain all night. In the morning mould them into small rolls; put them upon a baking-sheet, and bake in a moderate oven. Unless your breakfast party is very large, half the above quantity would be sufficient ; but these rolls being quite a luxury, I only make them upon very especial occasions. 12. How to choose Eggs. New-laid eggs should not be used until they have been laid about eight or ten hours, for that part which constitutes the white is not properly set before that time, and does not until then obtain their delicate flavor ; BREAKFASTS. 13 that which is termed milk in eggs being, according to my opin- ion, very insipid ; but that entirely depends upon fancy. Nothing being more offensive than eggs in a state of decom- position, it is very important that every person should know how to detect them (especially in the winter), if, by shaking them, they sound hollow, you may be certain they are not new-laid, and not fit to be boiled for breakfast : but, if broken, they may prove fit for any other culinary purpose, except for souffles, for which eggs must be very fresh. The safest way to try them is to hold them to the light, forming a focus with your hand ; should the shell be covered with small dark spots, they are veiy doubtful, and should be broken separately in a cup, and each egg smelt previous to using ; if, however, in looking at them, you see no transparency in the shells, you may be sure they are rotten and only fit to be thrown away ; the most precise way is, to look at them by the light of a can- dle ; if quite fresh, there are no spots upon the shells, and they have a brilliant light yellow tint ; in the spring of the year, it would be scarcely excusable to use any eggs that are not quite fresh. 13. Eggs for Breakfast, plain boiled. Put about a pint of water to boil in any kind of small stewpan (or saucepan) over the fire ; when boiling, put in two or three fresh eggs, gently, with a spoon, being particular not to crack them or allow them to boil too fast, or the interior of the eggs would partly escape before they were set, giving them an unsightly appearance, and entirely prevent their cooking regularly : three minutes is sufficient to cook a full-sized egg, but if below the average size, two minutes and a half will suffice. 14. Eggs au Beurre : a new method. Let the eggs boil six minutes instead of three, then take them out, dip them for two seconds in cold water, crack and peel off the shells, and lay them in a hot plate (they will remain -quite whole if properly done), cut each egg in halves lengthwise, spread a little fresh butter and sprinkle a little salt over the interior, and eat them very hot. Eggs done in this manner are delicate and digestible. 14 BREAKFASTS. 15. To boil Eggs hard. Never boil eggs for salads, sauces, or any other purposes, more than ten minutes, and when done place them in a basin of cold water for five minutes to cool : take off their shells, and use them when required. Nothing is more indigestible than an egg too hard-boiled. 16. Poached Eggs. Put a pint of water in a stewpan, with four teaspoonfuls of vinegar and half a teaspoonful of salt, place it over the fire, and when boiling, break your eggs into it as near the surface of the water as possible, let them boil gently about three minutes ; have rather a thin piece of toast, as de- scribed (No. l), upon a dish, take the eggs out carefully with a small slice, lay the slice with the eggs upon a cloth for a second to drain the water from them, set them carefully upon the toast, and serve very hot. If the eggs are fresh they will look most inviting, but the way of breaking and boiling them must be most carefully attended to, and care should be taken not to boil too many together ; if the yolks separate from the white it may be presumed that the egg is not fresh, but it may be eatable, for the same thing may happen through awkward- ness in poaching. Again, the toast upon which they are served may be but- tered either with plain or maitre d'hotel butter, or two small pats of butter may be melted, without boiling it, and poured over, or a little melted butter sauce, or the same with the ad- dition of a little maitre d'hotel butter poured over when just upon the point of boiling, or a little anchovy butter instead of the other ; thus you may be able to indulge in nice little luxu- ries at a trifling expense. 17. Toast and Eggs. Break three eggs into a small stew- pan, add a saltspoonful of salt, a quarter of that quantity of pepper, and two ounces of fresh butter (the fresher the better), set the stewpan over a moderate fire, and stir the eggs round with a wooden spoon, being careful to keep every particle in motion, until the whole has become a smooth and delicate thickish substance ; have ready a convenient-sized crisp piece of toast, pour the eggs upon it, and serve immediately. 18. Eggs sur le Plat. Lightly butter a small oval dish, BREAKFASTS. 15 upon which break two, three, or more eggs without breaking the yolks, season lightly with a little white pepper and salt, put a few small pieces of butter here and there upon them, and then set the dish in a small oven, where let it remain until the whites become set, but by no means hard, and serve hot ; if the oven is moderately hot, they will take about ten minutes ; if no oven, put the dish before the fire, turning it round now and then until the eggs are set regular. This is a most ex- cellent dish. 19. Omelettes may also be served for breakfast with great advantage, being very relishing, especially the omelettes aux fines herbes, au lard, and aux champignons, but as they are considered to belong to the dinner, they will be given in that series of receipts. 20. Herring Toast Sandwich. Choose a bloater for this purpose not too dry, which split in two, cutting it down the back ; lay them upon a plate and pour a pint of boiling water over ; let them soak five minutes, when lay them upon a cloth to dry ; then broil them very gradually upon a gridiron ; when well done, which will be in about four or five minutes, have ready two thin slices of toast, made very crisp, butter them lightly, then take away all the bones from the herrings, lay the fleshy parts equally upon one piece of toast and cover with the other : serve very hot. 21. Toast and Eggs with Herring. Prepare your toast and eggs as directed (No. 17), but previous to pouring the eggs over, lay the flesh of a herring as directed in the last, and pour the eggs over that. Herrings upon toast, with a layer of mashed potatoes over, is also very good. Dried haddock may also be served the same, as also may sardines, but they being ready-cooked, are laid over cold with- out splitting them ; they are very delicious ; if wanted hot, set them a few minutes before the fire. 22. Fish for Breakfast, Bloated Herrings. They require to be freshly salted, for if dry they are quite rank and unpala- 16 BREAKFASTS. table ; scrape them lightly with a knife, and wipe them well with a cloth ; pass the point of a knife down the back from head to tail, making an incision about a quarter of an inch in depth ; place them upon the gridiron over a sharp fire ; they will take about six minutes to cook, of course turning them occasionally ; when done, put them upon a hot dish, open the backs, and place half a small pat of butter in each ; again close them : cooked this way they are delicious, especially if they are real bloaters. Another way is to cut them quite open and broil them flat upon the gridiron, and serve quite plain ; this way they are done much more quickly. Or, if nice and fresh, oil half a sheet of white paper for every fish, in which fold them and broil fifteen minutes over a slow fire, turning them over three or four times, and serve in the papers. Should you have any that have become dry, soak them about twenty minutes in lukewarm water, and proceed as first directed. (Same process will do for red herrings.) 23. Dried Haddock. A very excellent thing for breakfast, but they never ought to be cooked whole, for one side being thinner than the other is of course dried up before the other is much more than half done, especially the larger ones ; the bet- ter plan is to cut them in halves lengthwise, put them upon the gridiron over a moderate fire, keeping them frequently turned, and taking the thinnest half off first ; the thickest will require about ten minutes to cook it thoroughly ; when done, spread a pat of fresh butter over, and serve upon a very hot dish. Haddocks may also be skinned and broiled in oiled paper, but of course would take rather more time in cooking. 24. Whitings. Of all the modes of preparing and dressing whitings for breakfast I cannot but admire and prize the system pursued by the Scotch, which renders them the most light, wholesome, and delicious food that could possibly be served for breakfast : their method is, to obtain the fish as fresh as possi- ble, clean and skin them, take out the eyes, cover the fish over with salt, immediately after which take them out and shake off the superfluous salt, pass a string through the eye-holes, and hang them up to dry in a passage or some place where there BREAKFASTS. 17 is a current of air ; the next morning take them off, just roll them lightly in a little flour, broil them gently over a slov fire, and serve very hot, with a small piece of fresh butter rubbed over each, or serve quite dry if preferable. 25. Slips or Small Soles. When cleaned, season them with a little pepper and salt, dip lightly into flour, and broil them slowly over a moderate fire about ten minutes, or accord- ing to the size ; when done, place them upon a hot dish, pour two tablespoonfuls of cream over and serve immediately. They may of course be served dry, but pouring the cream over is a new and very good idea. Nothing but small white fish could be tolerated for breakfast. 26. Sprats when nicely cooked are very commendable. Dip them lightly into flour, and place them upon a gridiron over a slow fire ; when about half done, turn them ; when done (which would be in about five minutes from the time you put them on), serve dry in a veiy hot dish. 27. Meat for Breakfast, Sheep's Kidneys. Procure as many as you may require for your party, about one each is generally sufficient; be sure that they are fresh, which any person can ascertain by smelling, if not able to judge by their appearance ; cut them open very evenly lengthwise, down to the root, but not to separate them ; then have some small iron or wooden skewers, upon which thread the kidneys quite flat, by running the skewer twice through each kidney, that is, under the white part ; season them rather highly with pepper and salt, and place them upon a gridiron (the inside downwards), over a sharp fire ; in three minutes turn them over, and in about six they will be sufficiently done ; then take them off the skewers, place them in a very hot dish, and serve immediately. In open- ing them be careful to cut them in the centre, for should one half be thicker than the other, one would be dried before the other was sufficiently cooked. 28. Kidneys on Toast. Prepare tho kidneys precisely as in 18 BREAKFASTS. the last, but when done have ready a piece of hot toast, which butter lightly ; lay the kidneys upon it ; have ready a small piece of butter, to which you have added a little pepper, salt, and the juice of half a lemon ; place a small piece in the centre of each kidney, and when melted serve. 29. Kidney bread-crumbed, a la Maitre d 1 Hotel. Prepare the kidneys as before, and when upon the skewer, have ready upon a plate an egg well beat up with a fork ; season the kid- neys with a little salt and pepper, dip them into the egg, then lightly cover them with bread-crumbs, put them upon the grid- iron, which place over a moderate fire, broil them about ten minutes, turning them when half done, have ready a little maitre d'hdtel butter, put about half an ounce in each kidney, and serve immediately upon a very hot dish ; by the time it gets upon the table the butter will be melted, and they eat very relishing ; dressed this way they may also be served upon toast. 30. Sauted Kidneys. Should you not have a fire fit for broiling, put an ounce of butter into a saute-pan (which of course must be very clean), cut the kidney in halves lengthwise ; and when the butter is melted, lay them in, the flat side downwards, having previously well seasoned them with pepper and salt ; set the pan on a moderate fire three minutes, then turn them, place them again upon the fire until done ; when have ready a piece of dry toast, which place upon a hot dish, pour the kidneys with the butter and gravy over and serve very hot, care must be taken in sauteing that the butter does not become burnt. Another way is to sprinkle about a teaspoonful of chopped eschalots, or onions, over them whilst being sauted ; this mate- rially changes the flavor, and meets the approbation of many. For the cooking of mutton chops, steaks, cutlets, broiled fowl, broiled bones, or remnants of poultry or game, I must refer you to where they are given as receipts for the dinner-table. 31. Bacon and Ham, how to choose both Jit for broiling. Ham for broiling ought not to be too old or too dry, it would perhaps eat rank : nothing requires more care than broiling. BREAKFASTS. 19 Either get a slice of ham weighing a quarter of a pound or two ounces, which lay on your gridiron ; put them over the fire ; it will take perhaps fiv^ minutes, if the fire is good, and more, of course, if slow, but in that short space of time turn them three or four times, and it is done. Proceed the same if you want to serve it with poached eggs, but be careful that the eggs be ready at the same time as the bacon or ham, or both would eat badly. If you happen to have a whole ham by you for that purpose only, begin to cut the slices in a slanting direction and the same thickness, and proceed to the end of the ham with the remainder ; it will prove more profitable to broil with greens, peas, broad beans, &c., &c. To saute it, put a little butter or good fat in the pan ; set it on the fire with your slice in it, saute very gently, turning very often, and serve it on very thin toast. 32. Ham and Eggs. While your ham is doing, break two fresh eggs in the pan, season slightly with salt and pepper, set it before the fire till the eggs are delicately done, and slip them whole carefully into your dish, without breaking the yolk. 33. Bacon. The streaky part of a thick flank of bacon is to be preferred ; cut nice slices not above a quarter of an inch thick, take off the rind, put to broil on the gridiron over a clear fire, turn it three or four times in the space of five minutes ; this will be all the cooking required : serve it very hot. Though this is the best part, the whole of the bacon is still good, especially if not rank, which can be easily detected by its yellowish color : if too dry or salt, after it has been cut in slices, dip it into a little vinegar and water three or four times, and saute as usual, it will make it softer and less salt : serve as usual. If any remain after a dinner of boiled bacon, it is also very good broiled or fried for next day's breakfast. 34. Sausages. Sausages are very frequently esteemed for breakfast. By all means, never use them, except you are con- fident that they are fresh. The skin must be transparent, that the meat should be seen through ; they keep good two or three 20 BREAKFASTS. days in a cold place in summer, nearly a week in winter (with care). For the receipt how to make them in the homely way, see future letter. 35. Sausages, how to cook them. Prick them with a pin all round about twenty times, put them on the gridiron over a gentle fire, turn three or four times, by doing which you will have them a very nice yellow color ; dish them, and serve them very hot. 36. Sauted Sausages. If your fire smokes, it is preferable to saute them ; put some butter in the pan, with four sausages ; after you have pricked them as before mentioned, saute gently, a few minutes will do them, turn them often ; in many in- stances a thin slice of bread sauted in the fat they have pro- duced is a great improvement ; save the fat, as it is always useful in a kitchen. In case you are in a hurry to do them, throw them into hot water for one minute previously to their being broiled or sauted ; they will then be the sooner cooked, and even eat rather more relishing to a delicate stomach, having extracted the oil from the skin ; they may also be fried in the frying-pan. 37. Black Puddings, broiled. Make about six or eight in- cisions through the skin with a knife, in a slanting way, on each side of the pudding ; put it on the gridiron for about eight minutes, on rather a brisk fire, turn it four times in that space of time, and serve it broiling hot. I should recommend those who are fond of black puddings to partake of no other beverage than tea or coffee, as cocoa or chocolate would be a clog to the stomach. In France they partake of white wine for breakfast, which accounts for the great consumption of black pudding. Now really this is a very favorite dish with epicures, but I never should recommend it to a delicate stomach. ON COFFEE. Coffee, which has now come so generally into use, originally came from Arabia, where it has been known from time im- BREAKFASTS. 21 memorial, but was brought into use in England in the year 1653 ; as it is not generally known how it was introduced, I will give you the ac- count of it from "Houghton's Collection," 1698. "It appears that a Mr. Daniel Edwards, an English Merchant of Smyrna, brought with him to this country a Greek of the name of Pasqua, in 1652, who made his coffee ; this Mr. Edwards married one Alderman Hodges's daughter, who lived in Walbrook, and set up Pasqua for a coffee-man in a shed in the churchyard in St. Michael, Cornhill, which is now a scrivener's brave-house, when, having great custom, the ale-sellers peti- tioned the Lord Mayor against him, as being no freeman. This made Alderman Hodges join his coachman. Bowman, who was free, as Pasqua's partner ; but Pasqua, for some misdemeanor, was forced to run the coun- try, and Bowman, by his trade and a contribution of 1000 sixpences, turned the shed to a house. Bowman's apprentices were first, John Painter, then Humphrey, from whose wife I had this account." Having examined the renter churchwarden's book of St. Michael, Cornhill, I find that the house or shed Bowman built is now part of the Jamaica Coffee-House; it was rebuilt by Bowman, after the fire, in 1667. It is a very remarkable fact that but few persons in England know how to make good coffee, although so well supplied with the first qual- ity of that delicious berry ; but, by way of contrast, I must say that the middle classes of France are quite as ignorant of the method of making tea. I remember, upon one occasion, whilst staying at Havre with Mr. B., where we were upon a visit at the house of one of his agents, who in- vited a few of his friends to meet us at a tea-party d PAnglaise, as they used to call it, about an hour previous to tea, and previous to the arri- val of the guests, I was walking upon the lawn before the house, when my attention was attracted by a cloud of steam issuing from the kitchen- window, smelling most powerfully of tea : my curiosity led me to the kitchen, where I found the cook busily engaged making cocoa and most delicious coffee, but preparing the tea in a ridiculous fashion, the leaves of which were in an awful state of agitation, attempting as it were to escape from an earthen pot at the side of the fire, in which the deli- cious soup we had for dinner was made a few hours previously. (See Pot-au-Feu.) " My dear girl," said I (in French), " what process do you call that of making tea ? it never ought to be boiled." " I beg your pardon, Madame," says she, " master and mistress like it well done, and it will be another short half-hour before it is properly cooked (ce sera alors copieux)." " You are decidedly wrong," said I, " and I shall be most happy to show you the way we make it in England." " Yes, I know what you mean, Madame," replied she ; " I used to make it that way before, but no one liked it, that is, to boil it one hour in a copper-pan over a charcoal fire." Upon which I retired, making a most comical grimace, to refrain from laugliing at her still more ridicu- lous fashion. You must, however, observe that this occurred nearly twelve years ago, and I have no doubt but a reform has taken place since then by 22 BREAKFASTS. the continual traffic of the English through that part of the country. I must say, with respect to ourselves, we do not make quite such a blunder respecting coffee, but still our middle classes very seldom enjoy the aroma of that delicious beverage, which should be made as follows : Choose the coffee of a very nice brown color, but not black (which would denote that it was burnt, and impart a bitter flavor) ; grind it at home if possible, as you may then depend upon the quality ; if ground in any quantity, keep it in a jar hermetically sealed. To make a pint, put two ounces into a stewpan, or small iron or tin saucepan, which set dry upon a moderate fire, stirring the coffee round with a wooden spoon continually until it is quite hot through, but not in the least burnt ; should the fire be very fierce, warm it by degrees, taking it off every now and then until hot (which would not be more than two min- utes), when pour over a pint of boiling water, cover close, and let it stand by the side of the tire (but not to boil) for five minutes, when strain it through a cloth or a piece of thick gauze, rinse out the stew- pan, pour the coffee (which will be quite clear) back into it, place it upon the fire, and, when nearly boiling, serve with hot milk if for breakfast, but with a drop of cold milk or cream if for dinner. To prove the simplicity of this mode of making coffee, I shall here give a repetition of the receipt as it actually is : 38. Put two ounces of ground coffee into a stewpan, which set upon the fire, stirring the powder round with a spoon until quite hot, when pour over a pint of boiling water ; cover over closely for five minutes, when pass it through a cloth, warm again, and serve.* * This entirely new system of making coffee has never yet been introduced to the public, and was found out by the author of this work through the following circumstance: Whilst travelling by night in a railway train, and arriving in due time at the station, where positively no less than five minutes are allowed to restore exhausted nature, after a long and tedious journey, and then, by using a certain portion of manual strength, to push through the crowd to get at what is called the refreshment room, after waiting for nearly two minutes for my turn to be served with some of the boiling liquid which they called coffee, being as bad as any human being could possibly make it, having probably waited patiently by the side of a winter's fire until the last train made its appearance, it tasted anything but palata- ble ; but having a long journey before me, and requiring something to eat and drink, I was obliged to put up with it; but before I could even partake of half, or finish masticating some stale toast or over-buttered muffin, the unsociable bell vio- lently rung to acquaint the passengers that their appetites were perfectly satisfied, though that incredulous organ would not let us believe it ; and every one being perfectly aware that railway trains, like time, wait for no one, the hurry of which event, though unpleasant, made me escape the swallowing the thick part which was deposited at the bottom of the cup ; rushing out of the refreshment room, I jumped into the wrong carriage, the fidgetty train having changed its place, and the time being too short to rectify the mistake, I was obliged to make fresh ac- quaintance with my new compagnons de voyage, who happened to be as much dissatisfied with the stearaing-hot refreshment as myself, who had patronized the steaming Mocha. I was at last much pleased to find a wise man among my new travelling friends, who said, " I never travel at night without being provided with a spirited companion ;" and pulling out of his carpet-bag a small bottle and gutta- BREAKFASTS. 23 The foregoing proportions would make coffee good enough for any person, but more or less coffee could be used, if required ; the cloth through which it is passed should be immediately washed and put by for the next occasion. A hundred cups of coffee could be made as here directed in half an hour, by procuring a pan sufficiently large, and using the proper proportions of coffee and water, passing it afterwards through a large cloth or jelly- bag. 39. Coffee, French fashion. To a pint of coffee, made as before directed, add a pint of boiling inilk, warm both together until nearly boiling, and serve. The French never use it any other way for breakfast. 40. White Coffee, a new style. Put two ounces of un- ground coffee, slightly roasted, into a clean stewpan, which set upon a moderate fire, slowly warming the coffee through, shaking the stewpan round every half-minute ; when very hot, which you will perceive by the smoke arising from it, pour over half a pint of boiling water, cover the stewpan well, and let it infuse by the side of the fire for fifteen minutes, then add half a pint of boiling-hot milk, pass the coffee through a small fine sieve into the coffee-pot or jug, and serve with white sugar- candy or crystallized sugar ; it is, as you will perceive, a great novelty, and an agreeable change ; but if by neglect you let the coffee get black, or the least burnt, do not attempt to make use of it ; it should only be sufficiently charred to break easily hi a mortar if required. percha goblet of new invention, we partook of a drop of the best eau de vie I had ever tasted, which produced -on me the pleasant sensation of being relieved of a very annoying pain. Grateful for his kindness, and always desirous to improve the do- mestic comfort, I told him, in making myself known, that, as soon as I arrived at the Reform Club, I would try several experiments to simplify the present method of making coffee ; and should I be successful in my researches, I would forward him the receipt on my arrival in London. I tried to find my first travelling friends, who, more unfortunate than myself, got in their proper place, and, consequently, did not meet with the "spirited" friend 1 did, vowing they would never take any more coffee at night, especially in a railway train. Having forwarded the receipt to my friend, he, after having tried it, wrote me the following note : " MY DEAR SIR, -I have made an experiment of your new receipt for coffee, which you have kindly forwarded to me, and beg to acquaint you that I never re- collect having tasted better. Yours, &c. W. C." I do strongly advise my readers to give it a trial, and recommend all providers of refreshment at railway stations not to make the coffee boiling hot, but to keep the cafetiere in a bain-marie, which would avoid all the above inconvenience, both as regards quality and heat. 24 BREAKFASTS. 41. Coffee, made with a filter. To make a quart ; first put a pint of boiling water through the filter to warm it, which again pour away, then put a quarter of a pound of ground coffee upon the filter, upon which put the presser lightly, and the grating, pour over half a pint of boiling water, let it drain three or four minutes, then pour over a pint and a half more boiling water ; when well passed through, pour it into a clean stewpan, which set at the corner of the fire until a light scum arises, but not boiling ; pour it again through the filter, and when well drained through, pour into the coffee-pot, and serve with hot milk, or a little cream, separately. 42. Another way, more economical. Proceed as in the last, but draining the coffee through once only, and serve, after which pour another quart of boiling water over the coffee- grounds, which, when drained through, reserve, and boil up for the next coffee you make, using it instead of water, and an ounce less coffee. TEA is, without doubt, one of the most useful herbs ever introduced into England, which was in the year of the fire of London, 1666 : it has replaced an unwholesome and heavy drink (ale) which used to be partaken of previously, and has created habits of sobriety. It is indi- genous to China, Japan, and Siam, and consists of many varieties, the proper mixing of which constitutes the great art of a tea-dealer. It is exceedingly useful in many cases of sickness, and particularly after having partaken of any liquor to excess, or after extraordinary fatigue. When new, it is a narcotic ; but when old it has a different effect,* and in its native country is never partaken of until a year old, and not then, unless exceedingly desiccated. I cannot recommend you any one in particular, as that depends on taste ; but this I advise, that when you have a kind to your liking, to keep to it. And now, my dear friend, without wishing in the least to offend you, or attempting to aggravate your good nature, I must beg to contradict your assertion made at the commencement of our undertaking, where you say, respecting tea, of course I know how to make it ; you made it whilst staying at our house occasionally, and Mr. B. found there was a great difference between it and mine. But to tell you the truth respecting tea, I have a little secret of my own, being a discovery which I made a * Some few years since, having a great deal of writing to do within a certain time, and which could not be done wi'hout employing the night as well as ihe day, I partook of weak green tea, with a little brandy, sugar, and lemon-juice in i r , as a beverage, and, with light food, I was enabled to do with but eighteen hours' sleep from 8 o'clock on Monday morning to 5 o'clock on the following Sunday morning. BREAKFASTS. 25 short time ago by accident. Whilst in the act of making tea, I had just put the dry tea in the pot, when I heard a fearful scream up-stairs in the drawing-room ; rushing there, I found my little girl had had a severe fall in reaching something from the chimney-piece, the stool upon which she stood having upset : twenty minutes at least had elapsed be- fore I returned to my tea (which, being alone, I was in no particular hurry for), when I found that the servant, tliinking there was water in the pot, and fearing the tea would be spoiled, put it into the oven, which was rather hot ; when she brought it to me, I was rather annoyed, when all at once it struck me that the leaves being hot through, the tea would not require so long to draw ; I then filled the teapot with boiling water, and in a minute afterwards had a most delicious cup of tea, since which I have adopted the system upon all occasions, and am now having made a small spirit-lamp to warm the pot and leaves, as the oven is not al- ways hot : it may, however, be made hot in front of the fire, but not too close of course. I gave the receipt to one of our neighbors, who actually laughed at the idea, but never tried it, saying, " We cannot teach anything to our grandmothers, and that what did for them would do for us." Now what could you say to such people ? why nothing, but let them alone, as I shall do for the future. But you, my dear, I know have better sense ; proceed as I have directed, and you will find it a great improvement. Put your tea in the pot a quarter of an hour be- fore ready for it, warming both tea and pot, fill with boiling water, and leave it from three to five minutes to draw, when it is quite ready. CACAO was first known in Europe after the discovery of America, and it retains its Indian name ; of course, it was first used in Spain, and did not come into use in England until much later ; and we find that there was imported into England, in the year 1694, about 13,000 Ibs. weight of it ; at the present day there was, in 1848, 410,000 Ibs. It is a long fruit, about five to eight inches, and three or four thick, which contains about thirty nuts : the tree grows to only a few feet in height. In the course of my experiments, I have found that the shell is al- most as nutritious as the kernel, with less oily particles in it, which, to many, are unpleasant. 43. Chocolate. Scrape two ounces of the cake, which put into a stew or saucepan, with a gill of water, upon the fire, keeping it stirred with a wooden spoon until rather thick, when work it quickly with the spoon, stirring in half a pint of boiling milk by degrees ; serve very hot, with sugar separate. 44. Chocolate made in the Italian method. Procure a regu- lar chocolate-pot with a muller, the handle of which comes through the lid, one might be procured at any brazier's, put hi 2 26 BREAKFASTS. two ounces of chocolate (scraped), over which by degrees pour a pint of boiling milk, put on the lid, with the muller inside, which keep well moving, setting the pot upon the fire, and when very hot and frothy, serve. 45. Cocoa. Put a teaspoonful and a half of canistered co- coa into a cup, which fill by degrees with boiling milk, stir it until dissolved, when it is ready to serve ; sugar separately. LETTER No. III. Oatlands Cottage, Jan. 20, 1849. DEAR HORTENSE, I have inclosed the whole of the receipts which you have sent me for the breakfasts, properly classified, having omitted the cold meats (as you desired me) from this series, thinking, as you do, they are more suited for the luncheon. To save useless repetition, I have placed the receipts in numbers, by which references can be easily made, and any dish appearing in the dinner or luncheon series, but available for breakfast, can be directly found. But one tiling I remember when at your house was, that when the remains of a joint were rather large, you used to put it upon a side table, and let any one help themselves from it there ; your idea being, I believe, that very few persons liked to have a large dish of meat be- fore their eyes almost immediately after rising from their beds, or at the first meal of the morning. Respecting the way your table was laid out, to the best of my recollection, it was as follows : First the large table-cloth, over which was laid a small napkin before each person, with cups and saucers for tea or coffee, at choice, small plates for rolls, and a size larger for meat, sausages, eggs, Office, or Confectioner's Paste. Weigh half a pound of flour, which put upon your slab, make a hole in the centre, in which put six ounces of sifted sugar, mix it well with four eggs into a stiffish paste, having first well dissolved the sugar with the eggs, work it well, it is then ready for use. This paste was very much used when pieces montes were so much in vogue, but in the several receipts in which it is referred to, it is used upon quite a new principle, and very much sim- plified ; this paste, with the above proportions, ought to be very stiff, but still pliable enough to be worked without breaking ; should it be too stiff add more eggs, or too soft more flour ; the half or quarter of the above quantity may of course be made. 690. Vols-au- Vent of all things in pastry require the most care and precision; they that can make a good vol-au-vent may be stamped as good pastrycooks, although many variations in working puff paste, all others are of secondary importance. Make a pound of puff paste, giving it seven rolls and a half, leave it an inch in thickness, make a mark upon the top either round or oval, and according to the size of your dish ; then, with a sharp-pointed knife, cut it out from the paste, holding the knife with the point slanting outwards ; turn it over, mark the edges with the back of your knife, and place it upon a baking-sheet, which you have sprinkled with water ; egg over the top, then dip the point of the knife 1 into hot water, and cut a ring upon the top a quarter of an inch deep, and half an inch from the edge of the vol-au-vent, set in a rather hot oven, if getting too much color, cover over with a sheet of paper, do not take it out before done, or it would fall, but when quite set, cut off the lid, and empty it with a knife ; be careful to make no hole in the side or bottom ; if for first course it is ready, but if for second sift sugar all over, which glaze with the salaman- PASTRY. 271 der. Regulate the thickness of the paste from which you cut the vol-au-vent, according to the size you require it, the smaller ones of course requiring thinner paste. A vol-au-vent for en- trees will take about half an hour to bake, and as the common iron ovens often throw out more heat upon one side than the other, it will require turning two or three times to cause it to rise equal ; it ought to be when baked of a light gold color. 691. Vol-au-Vent of Peaches. Put half a pound of sugar in a sugar-pan, with the juice of a lemon and about half a pint of water, place it upon the fire and boil till becoming a thickish syrup ; then have eight peaches not quite ripe, which cut in halves, break their stones and blanch the kernels, throw six halves with the kernels into the syrup, boil three minutes, take them out with a skimmer, lay them upon a dish and take off their skins, stew the rest in syrup in like manner, four at a time ; when all done pour what liquor runs from them again into the syrup, which reduce to a good thickness, pass it through a tammy into a basin, when cold pour a little over the peaches and leave until ready to serve ; dress the peaches in your vol- au-vent with the syrup over. This is a receipt I learnt in France, where I got peaches for a sou each. 692. Vol-au-Vent with Fruit. These are generally used for the second course, and do not require to be so high as the other, especially as the fruit ought to be dressed in the form of a pyramid, if they are cut about three quarters of an inch in thickness it will be enough ; when nearly done, sift some pow- dered sugar over them, and put it back in the oven to glaze well, if not hot enough use the salamander ; remove the inte- rior, taking care not to make a hole in the bottom or sides, and fill with any kind of fruit you like, but never mix two kinds together, except currant and raspberry. 693. Sweet Vol-au- Vent with Rhubarb. In the spring of the year, this makes a very inviting and wholesome dish, and its qualities purify the blood, which the winter's food has ren- dered gross ; cut about twelve sticks of rhubarb into lengths of 272 PASTRY. one inch, put it in a stewpan holding about two quarts, put over it a quarter of a pound of sugar, and a tablespoonful of water, set it on a sharp fire, stirring it, do not let it get brown, or it would spoil and lose its flavor ; it will take but a few minutes to do ; when tender, put it in a basin to cool ; a few minutes before serving, fill the vol-au-vent with it, and serve cold. 694. Ditto, with green Gooseberries. A quart of green gooseberries, a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, the juice of half a lemon, and a tablespoonful of water, put on the fire and move it about for ten minutes, or till tender, and forming a thick green marmalade, put it in a basin till cold, serve in pyramid in the vol-au-vent; a little thick syrup, if handy, poured over, improves the appearance. 695. Ditto, with Orange. Well peel six oranges, removing all the pith, divide each into six or eight pieces, put them in a pan, with a quarter of a pound of sugar, and the juice of one orange, set it on a slow fire, with the cover on, stir it now and then ; ten minutes will be sufficient time for it, take out the pieces one after the other, lay them in a basin, reduce your syrup to a proper thickness, when ready to serve, dish your pieces of orange in it, and pour over the syrup. 696. Another method. Make a thick syrup with half a pound of sugar, put in your pieces by a dozen at a time, just give them a boiling, remove them on a sieve, then add the other pieces, when all done, add the juice, which pass through a sieve, and back again to the pan, boil till a proper thickness, dish up and serve the syrup over. 697. Ditto, a still plainer method. Have the pieces of orange ready, and put in a stewpan a quarter of a pound of sugar, a wineglass of brandy or rum, stir it well a few minutes, and serve with the liquor poured over. 698. Ditto, with Cherries. Stone one pound of cherries, PASTRY. 273 and put in a pan, with a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, stew for five minutes, take them down, drain, then reduce the syrup till thick, and pour over at the moment of serving. 699. Ditto, with Strawberries. Pick two pottles of very fresh strawberries, not too ripe, put them in with two ounces of powdered sugar, a teaspoonful of powdered cinnamon, toss them gently in a basin, and serve immediately in your vol-au-vent. 700. Ditto, with Apples. This fruit being procurable all the year renders it one of very great convenience ; Ribstone pippins are the best : cut in four, peel them, put a pint of syrup, when boiling, put in your apples, with the peel of half a lemon, and the juice of a whole one, let simmer till tender, put it in a basin, boil the syrup to a white jelly, let it stand till cold, put the apple in the vol-au-vent, and pour the syrup (cold) or jelly over ; serve a few ornaments made with very green angelica. 701. Another method. Cut any kind of apple, rather thin, put over a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, the rind of a lemon chopped, the juice of the same, one ounce of butter, and a glass of sherry, put on the fire, toss till tender, but keep it very white, put it in a basin, when cold dish in your vol-au- vent ; whip a gill of good cream, add ten drops of orange- flower water in it, cover over carefully and serve. Apple saute with butter, in this way may be served hot in the vol-au-vent. Any kind of plums or apricots, when plenti- ful, may be done the same as cherries, and served the same way. 702. Little Fruit Rissolettes. I also make with the trim- mings of puff paste the following little cakes : if you have about a quarter of a pound of puff paste left, roll it out very thin, about the thickness of half a crown, put half a spoonful of any mar- malade on it, about one inch distance from each other, wet lightly round them with a paste-brush, and place a piece of paste over all, take a cutter of the size of a crown piece, and press round the part where the marmalade or jam is, with the 12* 274 PASTRY. thick part of the cutter, to make the paste stick, then cut them out with one a size larger, lay them on a baking-tin, egg over, then cut a little ring in paste, the size of a shilling, put it on them, egg over again, place in a nice hot oven for twenty min- utes, then sugar over with finely sifted sugar, so as to make it quite white all over, then put back into the oven to glaze : should the oven not be sufficiently hot, take a salamander, or, for the want of one, a red-hot shovel, full of live coals, may be used ; serve in the form of a pyramid. A little currant jelly in the ring looks well. 703. Flanc of Fruit. This requires a mould the same as No. 602 ; it must be well wiped with a cloth, butter it, then take the remains of puff paste, and roll it well so as to deaden it, then roll it out a size larger than your mould, and about a quarter of an inch thick, place your mould on a baking-tin, put the paste carefully in the mould and shape it well, to obtain all the form of the mould, without making a hole in it ; put a piece of paper at the bottom, fill with flour to the top, and bake a nice color ; it will take about half an hour, then take out the flour and paper, open the mould, and fill it. 704. Flancs, with any kind of fruit, like a vol-au-vent, are more easily made, and are equally as good a side dish. This may be made of half-puff or short paste, and fill with raw cherries and some pounded sugar over : bake together. Greengages, apri- cots, or any kind of plums, will require a hotter oven than for flour only in it, the fruit giving moisture to the paste ; if baked in a slow oven will be heavy, and consequently indigestible. 705. Another. If you have no mould, make a quarter of a pound of paste (No. 688), roll it round or oval to your fancy, a quarter of an inch thick, wet the edge all round about half an inch, raise that part and pinch it round with your thumbs and fingers, making a border all round, put on a baking-sheet, fill with fruit one row, if large two ; remove the stones, and sift sugar over according to the acidity of the fruit ; it will take less time, too, than if in a mould : you see what variation can be made with very little trouble or expense. PASTRY. 2*75 706. Flanc of Apples. I just perceive that I had forgot to give you a few receipts in this way of cake, which I make very pretty when we have a party. Take eight Ripstone pippins, cut in four, peel a nice shape, rub with lemon, put half a pound of sugar in a pan, cover with cold water, juice of a lemon ; boil till rather thick, then add half the apples, simmer till tender, put them on a plate, do the remainder the same way, reduce the syrup a little, put the apples in a basin, pour syrup over : when cold, dish in pyramid in the crust, which you have prepared as No. 703, pour over the syrup, which should be a jelly. I often cut in fine strips the rind of a lemon or orange, boil with the apples, and ornament also with pieces of young angelica pre- served, cut in diamond, placing a piece between each apple. Flancs of pears may be made precisely the same way, but with good ripe eating pears cut in two lengthwise, leaving the stalk cut in half. 707. A plainer way. Peel and cut eight apples in thin slices in a pan, with two ounces of pounded sugar, the rind and juice of a lemon, the rind well chopped, put on fire, stir till forming a thick marmalade, and tender, melt a little currant jelly, pour over and serve. 708. Small Fruit Tarts. The next in order to sweet vol- au-vents, and which are easier to make, are tartlets, their ap- pearance being inviting, and their expense limited, and very easy to serve. They may be made from the trimmings of any putf paste which remains, should be enveloped in paper, and kept in a cold place, or in the flour tub. Make them as fol- lows : Have ready twelve or more small tartlet pans, which but- ter, line each with a bit of puff paste cut with a cutter the size of a crown piece, force up the edges with your thumb and finger, put a small ball (made of flour and water) in each, bake them nicely in a very hot oven ; when done take out the ball (which may be kept for other occasions), the tartlets, and shake powdered sugar over the bottom of each, and glaze with a salamander, turn them over, and shake sugar in the interior, which also salamander ; fill with any kind of preserve, marmalade, or fruit, for sweet vol-au-vents. They may be made with cream as fol- lows : Make your tartlets as before, placing cream instead of 276 PASTRY. the ball of flour, made thus : put half a pint of milk in a stew- pan, when boiling, add half a stick of vanilla, reduce the milk to half in another stewpan, have the yolks of two eggs and a quarter of an ounce of powdered sugar, and one ounce of sifted flour, with a grain of salt, pour in the milk, taking out the va- nilla, place over a slow fire, keep stirring till it thickens ; when cold, fill the tartlets, and bake nicely in a moderate oven ; when cold, add a little jam, have ready a meringue of four eggs (see ISTo. 711), lay a teaspoonful of each upon them, spreading it quite flat with a knife, ornament the top with some of the mix- ture, put into a paper cornet, sift sugar over, place in a slow oven till a light brown color, and the meringue quite crisp; if the oven is too hot, cover with a sheet of paper, dress, and serve in pyramid upon your dish. They ought to be of a light color. 709. Rissole Fourree. This is made as the rissole for en- trees ; it is a very simple receipt, and I vary it continually without the slightest difficulty ; instead of making it with orange I substitute apricot marmalade, apple, raspberry, strawberry, or greengage jam ; but no jelly, as currant or apple, as it would run through the paste and look bad. To vary the appearance at table, instead of egging, dust them lightly over with some coarse powdered sifted sugar, then bake them white instead of brown ; if the oven is too hot cover with a sheet of paper, put a little marmalade or jam in a ring which you have selected, and serve. By blanching and chopping a few pistachios, and mix- ing with the sugar, makes them look very inviting, or even chopped sweet almonds changes the flavor ; they may also be filled with any preparation of cream, rice, or vermicelli, prepared as for croquets. I also change them by sauteing, as they are much quicker done, and make a very nice dish. To remove the roast of the second course, I put six at a time in the saute -pan (see page 62), which must be hot, and saute a few minutes un- til a nice pale yellow color, serve with sifted sugar over, or egg and bread-crumb ; serve very hot ; if any left cold, warm in the oven. 710. Flanc Meringue of Apple. Sometimes I make a meringue of three eggs, as No. 711 ; when it is hard I cover the apples with it half an inch thick, keeping the pyramid ; then I put the remainder in a paper cornet ; cut the point so that PASTRY. 277 by pressing it the mixture may go out by degrees, with which I make various designs, according to fancy, sugar over, and put for half an hour to bake in a very slow oven ; the color ought to be pale yellow ; they are equally good hot or cold. If you would keep it quite white, bake it in a still slower oven, and give it a quarter of an hour longer. When I do it so, I merely make dots all over, about a quarter of an inch distant from each other, of the size of small nuts, sugar over, and put a Corinth raisin in each knob, which gives it a good appearance, and bake as directed ; when the eggs are just set, you may cover it with a sheet of paper, to prevent it taking too much color. 711. Meringues a la Cuilleree. Pound and sift one pound of lump sugar, whisk the whites of twelve eggs very stiff, throw the sugar lightly over, and with a wooden spoon stir gently, perfectly mixing the sugar, then with a table or dessert-spoon lay them out upon white paper in the shape of eggs, sift pow- dered sugar thickly over, let them remain ten minutes, then shake off the superfluous sugar, place upon boards which you have wetted, and put them in a slow oven, just hot enough to cause them to be light and slightly tinged ; when the outside becomes quite crisp, take off the papers, by turning them topsy- turvy and lifting the papers from them, dip your spoon into hot water, and with it clear out the best part of the interior, dust them with powdered sugar, lay them upon a baking-sheet, and put into the screen to dry ; they may be made a day or two before they are required, if put away in a dry place; to serve, fill them with whipped cream flavored either with vanilla or orange-flower (but do not make it too sweet), stick two to- gether, dress in pyramid upon a napkin, and serve. Should they happen to stick to the papers, moisten the papers with a paste-brush and water underneath. 712. Gateau Fourre. This style of cake is exceedingly simple, and admits of great variation. You must make a half pound of puff paste (No. 684), take one third of it and roll it out several times so as to deaden it, then mould it round with your hands to the shape of a ball, then roll it out flat to the thickness of half a crown, lay it on a baking-sheet, put on it 278 PASTRY. marmalade a quarter of an inch thick, reserving about one inch all round of paste to fix the cover on, then roll out the remain- der of the paste to the same shape, it will of course be thicker, wet the edges of the bottom and lay the cover on it, press it so that it sticks, cut neatly round the edges, and make a mark with the back of a knife about a quarter of an inch deep and half an inch apart all round, egg over, and lightly mark any fanciful design with the point of a knife on the cover, bake in a very hot oven for twenty minutes ; when nearly done sprinkle some sugar over and salamander, and serve cold. It may be made with frangipane and cream and apple marmalade, and then can be served hot. 713. Dartoise Fourree. The former one must be made in proportion to the dish you intend to serve on, but the following is simple, and looks as well : prepare the paste as before, but roll the bottom piece square, put it on a baking-sheet, cover with jam, marmalade or frangipane, leaving one inch at the edge, roll the cover the same size, wet the edges, place it over, trim the edges, mark it down every three inches, and then crosswise every inch ; bake in hot oven, sugar over, and sala- mander. When nearly cold, cut it where you have marked it ; thus, a piece twelve inches square will give you forty-eight pieces ; dish as a crown or pyramid, twelve pieces make a nice dish for a party. They may be made of any puff paste which is left, but will not be so light as if made on purpose ; can be cut to any fanciful shape you please. 714. Nougat of Apricot. Proceed as above, but lay apricot marmalade all over a quarter of an inch thick, blanched almonds, cut into fillets, mixed with two ounces of sugar, and the white of an egg added to it, bake in a moderate oven, and cut in true lozenge shapes (I do not mean those things called lozenges, but a diamond shape), dish up on a napkin in crown or pyramid ; they ought to be of a nice transparent color. Orange, apple, or quince marmalade may be used instead of apricot. Red fruit preserve does not cook well. 715. Crusts of Fruit. Put a quarter of a pound of butter PASTRY. 279 in a saute- or frying-pan, sprinkle a little sugar over, cut four or five slices of bread a quarter of an inch thick, three inches long, and one and a half wide, lay in your pan ; take one dozen of greengages, open them in two, they must not be too ripe, lay the skin part on your bread, put a pinch of sugar in each, put it in a hot oven for twenty minutes ; have ready a salamander or a hot shovel, and hold it over it for a few minutes, dish and serve hot or cold ; the oven ought to be hot enough to give a nice yellow color to the bottom, which will eat crisp. 716. Crusts with Madeira. Cut a French penny roll length- wise in four or five slices, put the yolks of two eggs, with four spoonfuls of milk, mix it in a plate, dip quickly each piece in it, and saute in a quarter of a pound of butter which you have pre- viously melted in a pan, leave them on the fire until they have obtained a nice gold color on both sides, put a spoonful of apricot marmalade in a stewpan, with two glasses of Madeira, and place on the fire ; when on the point of boiling, pour over the bread, which you have previously put in a plate, and serve very hot. Any preserve may be used, also any white wine ; and should you have no French rolls, any fancy roll will do, or stale brioche (No. 11) is excellent for them. 717. Cheesecakes. Under this head, in English Cookery Books, are a variety of Receipts, but in fact, there is only one ; the others may all be denominated tartlets of one kind or the other, and require but little skill on the part of the cook to vary in an innumerable number of ways. The following is the plan in use in the farm-houses in the midland coun- ties ; some which I have received from Stilton, and also from Tuxford, in Nottinghamshire, are excellent. Take four quarts of milk and turn it with some fresh rennet; when dry, crumble it and sift it through a coarse sieve into a bowl, beat it well up with a quarter of a pound of butter until it is quite smooth (it may require a little more butter, depend- ing on the quality of the milk) ; mix in another bowl the yolks of four eggs and a quarter of a pound of very fine sifted biscuit powder, the rind of four lemons, the juice of two, a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar (some add a little grated nutmeg or cinnamon), beat these all well up together until forming a stiff cream, then put it by degrees into the bowl with curd, and mix them well together ; line some tartlet-pans, previously buttered, 280 PASTRY. with some paste (No. 686), and place some of the above mix- ture in, and bake quick. In some places milk is used instead of eggs. Should you not have rennet, procure some good milk, and turn it with the juice of a lemon or a teaspoonful of soda or culinary alkali to a quart of milk : drain the curd, and pro- ceed as before. 718. Richmond Maids of Honor. These delicious little cakes, which every inhabitant of London who pays a visit to the most pictur- esque part of its environs knows so well, derive their name from a period when cookery was not thought to be a degrading occupation for those honored with that title. It is stated that they originated with the maids of honor of Queen Elizabeth, who had a palace at Richmond. I have a little work now before me, called ' The Queen's Delight,' in which are several receipts invented by the wives of the first nobles of the land, which I think is an excellent example for those housewives who honor this book by their perusal, to imitate. They are made as follows : Sift half a pound of dry curd, mix it well with six ounces of good butter, break the yolks of four eggs into another basin, and a glass of brandy ; add to it six ounces of powdered lump sugar, and beat well together one very flowery baked potato, cold, one ounce of sweet almonds, one ounce of bitter ditto pounded, the grated rind of three lemons, the juice of one, and half a nutmeg grated, mix these well together and add to the curds and butter ; stir well up, and proceed as before, filling the tartlet pans. 719. Lemon Cheesecakes. Take two large lemons, and rub the rind with one pound of loaf sugar, so that all the yellow part is removed ; place the sugar in a basin, squeeze the juice of the lemons over, then add the yolks of six eggs, and beat it all well up, and put it by in a jar for use. It will keep for years. Any flavor, such as vanilla or cinnamon, may be added, if liked, when required for use. Having made the paste and lined the tins, mix one tablespoonful of the mixture with a teacupful of good milk, and place a little in each tartlet. 720. Sweet Omelettes. Break six eggs in a basin, into which put a teaspoonful of sugar, three of cream, or a few small pieces of butter ; put two ounces of butter in an omelette pan ; when PASTRY. 281 quite hot, pour in the eggs and proceed as for Omelettes of Herbs, turn over on your dish, sift some powdered sugar over, sala- mander, and serve. 721. Omelettes of Preserved Fruits, viz. Currant Jelly, Rasp- berry and Strawberry Jam, Apricots, Peaches, Cherries, &c., are made the same as the last, but, just before turning on your dish, put two spoonfuls of preserves in the centre, sugar over, salaman- der, and serve. 722. Macedoine of Omelettes. Instead of making one with eight eggs, make four, with two eggs each, of different kinds of preserves ; serve on the same dish, sugar over, ' . '" 39 Larded 241 Jelly Water . 40 44 Roasted Round of, Salted 119 121 Broth 34 cold . 121 Artichokes. . , Jerusalem 259 81,259 Rump Steak, Stewed Half-round of, silver side 164 121 Asparagus , ~ . with Eggs . Aspic of Meat . 253 217 240 Salt, remains of . Salt, Bubble and Squeak Sirloin of Stewed Rump of 169 163 119 120 Spiced . 242 Bacon, to choose . 18,140 Tea ... 36 to boil 141 Beignet Souffle 281 to broil 19 Beet-root . 258 Baking, on . Barley Lemonade . 60 42 Beurre Noir, or Black Butter Beverage, Refreshing 98 43,44 Barley Orangeade . 43 Bills of Fare 339 352 INDEX. Biscuit Souffle Cocoa-Nut PAGE 301 325 Calf's Brains, to prepare Ears, stewed PAGE 128 174 Cream 326 Feet . 53, 214, 240 Moss . 325 Feet Jelly 286 Rout . 325 Head . 28, 130 Blackberry Pudding 294 Curry 213 Black-Pudding, broiled 20 Hollandaise 130 Blancmange 290 with Mushrooms 130 Bloaters 15 with Tomatoa 130 Boiling, on 60 Heart, roasted 172 Boudins of Fowl . 197 Liver, English fashio 172 Turkey 197 fried . 175 Bottoms and Tops, to ma Braising, on e 11 60 sauted . stewed . 172 175 Braise-Roast 147 Sweetbreads . 173 Boil . 148 au Grati 174 Bread, to make 10 another r ay 173 and Milk 30 Caper Sauce 113 and Apple Breakfast Table . 284 7,26 Capillaire . Capon, boiled 330 151 Brocoli 257 and Cresses . 227 Broiling . 63 a 1'Estragon . 157 Broth, Arrow-root . 34 Pie . 236 Chicken 37,53 Roast . 150 Eel . 38 Roast braised 147 Mutton 33 Stewed 151 Rice . French Herb . 34 44 Capilotade of Poultry Carp, baked 193 106 Seasoned 33 Sauce Matelote 106 Semoulina 34 Carrot Pudding . 292 Turkey 147 with Poulards 152 Various 34 Soup . 89 Vermicelli 34 White 89 Veal . 35 Sauce . 73 Brown Stock 77 Carving 346 Browning . 78 Cauliflower 257 Brioche Rolls, to make 12 Gratin, with Cheese 257 Brussels Sprouts . 259 Puree, Soup . 71,89 Bubble and Squeak 163 Celery 256 Buns, to make 12 Cheesecakes 229 Butter 334 Lemon . 280 Anchovy 117 Maids of Honor 280 Burnt . , , . 7 217 Puff . 303 Lobster 117 Cheese Souffle 304 Melted 112 Raminole . 303 Maitre d'Hdtel Ravigote 117 117 Charlotte, Apple . Russe . 282 289 Cheese, to make . 384 Cacao Cake, Almond 25 325 Charlotte, Strawberry Chartreuse of Fruit 289 290 Cinnamon 326 Cherry Draught . 44 Ginger Pound 326 324 Compote Cherry Marmalade 309, 311 319 Queen's 324 Omelette 281 Rout . 325 Vol-au-Vent . 271 Savoy, in Moulds 322 Pudding . 295 Cake, Savoy, or Ladies' I Shrewsbury . ingers 323 326 Chestnut Pudding . Chicken, Boiled . 296 53, 193 Sponge 323 Braised 192 small 324 Broth . 37,53 St. James's 327 Curry . . 210 Royal Iceing for Calf's Brains, a la Maitre d'Hdte 312 1 175 Italian way Pie . 153 203 fried . . 175 Roast Braised . 192 INDEX. 353 PAGE Chicken, Roast, for Invalids . 53 PAGE Currant Jelly, with Omelette . 281 Spring . 228 Red, White & Black for Puddings 294 Stewed 150 and Raspberry Pie . . 295 Chicoree Sauce 72 Compote '. 311 Choice of Pork . 139 Salad 322 Choca 345, 346 Sweetmeat of . 320 Chocolate . 25 Curry, Beef 212 Italian 25 Calf's Head, Feet, an Tail 213, 214 Iceing for Cakes 312 Chicken 210 Ice Cream ' ', , ? 316 with Paste 210 Choice of Meat 118 Crab . 215 Chopping of Herbs 267 Fillets of Haddock 216 Chump of Veal Clear Soup 125, 127 79 Sole Whiting 216 216 Clarify Stock, to . 79 Game . 221 Cock-a-leekie Soup Cocoa 83 . 25,26 Lamb . Lamb's Head . 212, 213 . 214 Nut Biscuits . 325 Lobster 214 Cod, Boiled 95 Mutton 212 with Oysters . 95 Ox Tail 214 Coffee, on . 20 Oyster 215 to choose 22 Pork 212 where first used in L ndon . 21 Prawn 215 to make 22 Rabbit 211 French 23 Salmon 215 White . 23 Skate . 216 made with a filter 24 Sauce 69 another way . Cold Ham . 24 141, 240 Tripe Turbot . 214 . 216 Conger Eel, Stewed Confectioner's Paste 110 270 Veal Breast of . 211 212 Conversation on Househo d Affairs 336 Custard Pudding . . 47, 364 Compote of Pigeons of Fruits 200 310 Damson Pie ' . 295 Cooling Drink Lemonade 42 45 Pudding Dartoise Fourree . . 294 . 273 Cow Heels . 169 Demi-Plum Pudding . 292 Crab Curry % . 215 Dessert 305 Cranberry Pie 296 Dewberry and Raspberry Pie . 295 Cresses with Pullet 227 Diablotins . 304 Cream, Bohemian Jelly 288 Dinner, Nursery . 28 Clouted 335 Table . N 327 Coffee Souffle . . 302 D'Office, Paste 270 Coffee Ice 316 Dried Haddock . 16 Pastry Saute . 1 . . 286 Mackerel 97 Omelette Souffle 301 Sprats . 17 Rice 299 Draught, Cherry . 44 Sauce . . 116 Drink, Cooling 42 with Spinach . . . 260 New . 41 Crecy Soup 89 Strengthening . 43 Croquettes of Fowl Macaroni 195 285 Dry Toast . Ducks, on . 9 156 Rice . 285 a 1'Aubergiste 157 Crumpets, to make 11 to choose 156 to toast . " 9 Roasted 156 to serve . 10 Stewed with Peas 156, 198 Crusts of Fruit 278 Turnips 157, 199 Madeira . 279 Varieties of . 156 Cucumbers 258 Ducklings . - . 228 Brown Sauce . 67 Pie 236 White Sauce . . 71,73 Stewed with Peas . 156 with Poulards . . 152 Turnips 157 Curacao Jelly 287 Remains of . 157 Currant Jelly 320 Duck, Wild 230 354 INDEX. PAGE PAGE Duck, Hashed 225 Fish Pike . 105 with Orange Sauce 225 Red Mullet, or Sur Mullet . 99 Salmon 94 Ears, Calf's, Stewed 174 Sauces . 111 Ecarlate of Fowl . 153 Salad . 247 Eels, on 109 Salt . 95 to kill 109 Skate . 104 Broth 38 Smelts . 101 Fried 109 Soles . 103 Pie 205 Sturgeon 96,97 Spitchcocked . 110 Tench . 108 Skinned 109 Trout . 107 Stewed 109 Turbot . 102 a la Tartare . 110 White Bait . 101 Effects of Fish 93 Whiting 99 Eggs au Beurre 13 Fish, Shell Escalops 250 Baked . 216 Oysters 250 with Asparagus 217 Razor or Solen 250 with burnt Butter 217 Prawns 250 Hard . 14 Shrimps 251 in Cases with Cheese . 218 218 Fisherman's Soup . Fillet of Beef, broiled 86 165 to choose 12 Veal, cold 241 with Green Peas 217 roast 125 with Ham 19 Flancs 274 plain Boiled . Poached 13 14 Flanc of Apple Fruit . 275 274 Mashed 217 Meringue 274 Meagre 217 what they are . 158 with Mushrooms 217 Flounders, on 104 Sauce . 112 Water Souchet 104 Snow . 217 Fried . 104 with Sprue Grass sur Ie plat 217 14 Food, light, for invalids Forcemeat, on 33 251 and Toast 14 to make 251 a la Tripe 217 of Fish . 252 Endive Sauce or Puree 72 Panada for 252 Entrees, or Made Dishes 158 of Veal 253 of Game . 220 of Whitings . 252 Epicure, the Septuagenar Escalops Escaloped Oysters Eschalot Sauce an 348 250 250 66 Fondu, Parmesan . Neapolitan simple . Stilton Cheese 302 302 302 303 Essence of Beef . 36 Fourree, Dartoise . 278 Gateau 277 Fennel Sauce 112 Rissole 276 Feet, Lamb's 52, 185 Fowls, on . 149 Ox Calfs . 169 53 Blanquettes of Boiled . 194 194 Fish, on 93 Braised 194 French-Anglais way o for Breakfast . fstewi og no Broiled Boudins of 194, 195 197 Carp . Cod . 106 95 Croquettes of . Fricassee of . 195 195 Conger Eel 110 Fried . 193 Eels . 109 Hashed, Indian 193 Effects of 93 Italian way 153 Forcemeat of . 252 a 1'Ecarlate . 153 Flounders 104 a la Marengo . 196 Haddock 96 Minced 194 Herrings 100 Pie 235 Mackerel 97 Pillau . 209 Maids . 104 Pulled, for invalids 54 Perch . 108 Roast braised . 148 INDEX. 355 PAGE PAGE Fowls, Saute 194, 196, 197, 199 Game Whim . . <* 231 Salad . 249 Whewer . 231 to truss 150 Widgeons . 231 Fowl, Guinea 229 Great Headed . 231 Pea 229 Woodcock . 231 French Beans 259 Garlic Sauce 68 Coffee . 23 Garniture for Omelettes . 219 Herb Broth 44 Garum Sauce . - . 111 Panada 41, 252 Sociorum ; 111 Remedy for Colds 38 Gateau Fourre 277 Plums Compote 309 Galantine, to cook 238 Fritadella 190 Jelly . 287 Fritters, Apple Apricot 282 282 Turkey . Veal . . 238 241 Orange 282 how got 117 Peach 282 Gibelote of Rabbit . 200 Souffle 282 Giblets . 85, 155 Fruit* Chartreuse of 298 78 Crusts . 278 Gold Jelly . 287 Flanc of 274 Goose 153 Rissolettes 273 to choose 153 Puddings 294 Giblets. 155 Pies . 296 Hashed 199 Salads of 21, 322 Pie 236 Vol-au-Vent . 271 Preserved 155 Wall . 295 Stewed 155 Fricandeau of Veal 170 Stuffing 154 to carve 171 Roasted 154, 155 to dress 171 Trussed 154 Various ways . Fritadella . 171 190 Gooseberry, Green, Compote Pie 311 295 Frying, on . 61 Pudding 294 Fry, Lamb's 138 Vol-au-Vent . * j 272 Fumet de Gibier Sauce 233 with Rhubarb . v 297 Gosling, Roast . 228 Game, choice of . to keep 229 229 Grass, Sprue Gratin of Lobster . . 255 245 Made-dishes of 220 Gravy, Brown 77 Salad of 248 Spinach and . 260 Soup . 92 Turkey . 145 Tureen of 237 Greengage Compote 308, 311 Entrees of 220 Greengage Pudding . 294 Dunbird 231 Groats, Scotch, Gruel 40 Garganey 231 Grouse Pie . 204, 236 Gorcock . s 230 Scotch Plan of Cooking 222 Grouse . 230 Gruel 40 Red 230 Sago . 40 White . 230 Guinea Fowls, Roasted . . 229 Half Birds 231 Lark . 232 Haddocks, Baked . 96 Moorcock, or Gorcoc! 230 Dried . 16 Moor-game . Partridge 230 230 Fillets of Ham, Cold . 216 141, 240 Red-legged 230 and Eggs 19 Pea Fowl 229 Hot 141 Pheasant 229 Hamburgh Beef . 122 Hybrid 229 Hard Eggs . 14 Plovers . 'if3 231 Hare, Jugged 226, 227 Pochard . , 231 Roasted . . . 233 Ptarmigan 230 Haricot Beans . 260 Quails . 232 Hartshorn Jelly. . 287 Red Heads . 231 Haunch of Mutton . 130 Snipes . 232 Venison . 142 Teal . 231 Head, Calf's 128, 130 356 INDEX. PAGE PAGE Head, Calf's, Hollandaise . 130 Jelly, Punch 287 with Mushrooms 130 Quince 287, 320 Tomatos 130 Rum . 237 Curry 213 Silver . 287 Lamb's 138 Whipped 288 Pig's . Pig's, Sauce for Pig's, to braise Heart, Calf's, Roasted Lamb's 243 243 243 172 185 of Meat, to clarify Jesuits, Turkeys, so calle Julienne Soup Kidneys, Bread-crumbed 239 144 81 18 Sheep's 184 Maitre d'H6tel 18 Herbs with Omelette 219 on Toast 17 Minced, Sauce 67 Ox . 168 Italian Sauce . 67 Omelette of . 220 Chopping Herrings, Boiled . Broiled 267 100 100 Pudding Sauted . Sheep's 168, 207 18 .17, 176 Toast . 15 Kidney Beans . 259 Hotch Potch 87 Knuckle of Veal . 127, 240 Ice, Almond, White 297 Lait de Poule 38 Apricot 317 Sweet 38 Chocolate 316 Lamb 136 Coffee . 316 Breast of, Broiled 138 Lemon 316 Curried 212 Orange 317 Chop 52, 166, 186 Pine Apple 316 Curry 212 Strawberry 317 Cutlets 185 Vanilla 315 to cut up 136 Iced Almond Cake 304 Feet 52, J85 Imperial 46 Fry . 138 Indian Hash 193 Head 138, 139, 213 Invalids, Comforts for 33 Heart 185 Fish for 49 Leg of 137 Food . 33 Loin of 136 Meat . 33,51 Neck of 136 Partridges 54 Pie 201, 203 Pigeons 54 Papillote . 186 Poultry 53 Pudding 206 Puddings 47 Quarter of 136 Irish Stew . . 178 Quality of 136 Soup . 82 Remains of . 184 Isinglass Jelly Italian Drops 287 327 Ribs of Saddle of, Russian fa 136 lion . 137 Sauted . . . 186 Jam, Apricot Quince 318 318 Shoulder of . Larks a la Minute . 137 226 Raspberry . 319 Pie 226 Strawberry 319 Laver 263 Jardiniere, Neck of Lamb 136 Lentils . 262 Sauce . . 137 Soup . 90 Jelly, Apple 320 Letters i, 5 ; n, 6 ; in, 26 iv, 27; v, 28; Arrow-root 40 vi, 55 ; vii, 56 ; vm, 57 ix, 58 ;x, 58; Bohemian Cream Calf's Foot . 288 286 xi, 58; XH, 120; xm xv, 244 ; xvi, 305 ; x 178 ; xiv, 181 ; i, 327 ; xvin, Curacao Currant 287 320 332; xix, 334; xx, 345 Leveret xxi, 348. . 233 Gelatine 287 Lemonade, Barley 42 Gold . 287 Cooling 45, 332 Hartshorn 287 Lemon Cheesecakes 280 Isinglass 287 Jelly . . 288 Marasquino . 287 Souffle . 299, 300 Lemon 288 Leg of Pork 139, 142 Orange 288 Lamb . 137 INDEX. 357 Liaison of Eggs . PAGE 68 Milk and Rice PAGE . 38, 39 Liver, Calf's . , 172, 175 Semoulina . 39 Lobster Butter . 116 Tapioca 39 Curry . 214 Vermicelli . 39 a la Creme . 114 Minced Beef 166 Gratin of 245 Fowl . 194 Miroton of 245 Meat . 295 Omelette 220 Pie . 295 Plain . 246 Pudding . . 292 Salad . 246 Pheasant . 222 Sauce . 13, 114 Mint Sauce 68 Loin of Mutton 134 Minute, Snipes a la 224 Pork . 140 Miroton of Beef . 159, 160 Veal . 125 Lobster . 245 Braised . 127 Lobster Salad 246 Luncheon . 27 Moorgame Pie 236 Mould Pudding . 291 Mackerel a la Maitre d'H tel 98 Mock Turtle, Brown 85 au Beurre Noir 98 White 84 Boiled . 97 Muffins, to make . 10 Dried . 97 toast 9 Pickled 107 Mulberry Pie 295 Stewed Soft Roe Sauce 98 111 Mulligatawny Soup Muria Sauce 85 111 Macaroons . . Macaroni . 326 265 Mullet, or Sur Mullet, to Papillote ook . 99 Croquettes 285 Saut6 . ! 100 a 1'Estoufade . 266 Mussel Sauce 115 au Gratin 266 Mushrooms, Blanched 74 a 1'Italienne . 266 with Eggs . . 220 a la Napolitaine 266 Omelette of . 220 Pudding 47 Sauce . 66, 68, 73, 261 Soup . 82 Mutton, on 130 to blanch 265 Boiled 132 Macedoine Omelette 281 Broth 33, 34, 82 Madeira Crusts 279 Chop 51, 178 Made Dishes of Beef 158 Soyer's 180, 182 Game 220 Saute . . ^ . 180 Remains of \ eal 175 Breast of, Curry 212 Maitre d'Hotel Sauce 73 Curry . 212 Maids of Honor 280 Cutlet, various ways 182, 183, 184 Marasquino Jelly . Marinade of Salmon 287 248 Plain . French Ragout of 51 177 Marrow, Vegetable Pudding Matelote 257 294 116 Haunch of Leg of, Roasted Boiled 130 132 . 132 Marmalade with Pancake 282 a la Bretonne . 133 of Apple 318 Braised 134 of Apricot 318 Stewed 134 of Cherries . 319 Loin of, Roasted 134 of Pine Apple. Mashed Eggs 322 217 Loin of, a la Bretonn Neck of, Roasted 133 134 Meagre Eggs 217 Boiled . 135 Soup . Puree . 88, 91 91 Pie Pillau . 202 . 210 Meat, Aspic of 240 Pudding 206 for Breakfast . 17 Saddle of 131 for Invalids 33 a la Polonaise . 131 Remains of 175 Shoulder of, Roasted . 133 Melted Butter 112 Boiled . . 133 Mephistopheleian Sauce Meringues a la Cuillerfce Flanc . ' : '- 75 277 276 Baked, with Apples 133 Provincial . 134 Stuffed and Baked 133 Milk and Bread . 30 358 INDEX. PAGE PAGE Neapolitan Fondue 302 Oysters 250 Neck of Lamb 136 Escaloped 250 Pork 140 Curry . 215 Veal 126 Omelette 219 Venison 143 Soup . 86 Nectarine Pudding 297 Sauce . 115 New Drink . 41 Stewed 251 Nursery Dinner 28 Panada, French . 41, 252 Omelettes . 15, 219 Pancake, with Marmalade 282 Asparagus 219 Pap .... i* *"* 1 s uo Bacon . 220 Parmesan Fondue . 302 Cherry . 281 Parsnips, with Salt Fish . 95 Currant Jelly 281 Partridge, Roasted 230 Garniture for 219 Hashed 223 Ham . 219 for Invalids . 54 Herb . 219 Pie . 204, 236 Kidney 220 Salmi . 223 Lobster 220 Sauted with Mushrooms 223 Mushroom Macedoine of 220 281 Stewed with Cabbage Palates of Beef 222 160 Oyster . 219 a la Bretonne . 161 Parmesan 219 a la Maitre d'H6tel . 161 Peach . 281 a la Poulette . 161 Peas . Preserved Apr cot 219 281 Papillote Lamb Chops Sauce . 186 69 Raspberry Jaa 281 Paste, Beef Suet . 269 Rum . 28J different sorts of 268 Saute Souffle 301 D'Office, or Confectioners' 270 Sauted in Cre m 301 Puff . 268 Strawberry 281 Half 269 Sweet . 281 Short, or Pate a foncer 269 Onion, Button, Sau ce 72 for Fruit Tarts 269 Puree . 71 Pastry Cream Saute 286 Soup . 91 Turban of 304 Stuffed . 74 Peach Compote 307 Orangeade . 46 Fritters 282 Orange Compote Fritters 09, 310 282 Omelette Salad . 281 321 Salad . 321 Vol-au-Vent . 271 Vol-au-Vent 272 Pea -Fowl . 229 Jelly . 288 Pear Compote 307 Ice, Souffle 298 with Rice 284 Sauce . 68 Pie 296 Osmazome . Oxen, to judge how cut 37, 118 118 118 Peas and Sprue-grass Sauce and Bacon French way . 72 74 254 Ox-beef, to hang Brains . 118 164 Green . with Eggs 254 217 Cheek . 84 Soup 89, 90 Feet . 169 Stewed . 73 Heart . 162 Winter 90 Kidneys Remains 168 169 Pease Pudding Perch, Sauted" in Butter . 209 108 Tail Curry 214 Hampton Court fashion 108 au Gratin 162 Pheasant, Broiled . 220 a la Jardin ere 161 Hashed 221 Sauce piq ante 162 Joe Miller's . 221 Soup 82 Minced 222 Tongue, cold 240 Pie, raised 236 hot 240 Roasted 229 fresh 123 Salmi . 222 pickled Remains of 4 123 23, 169 Stewed with Cabbage Pickle a la Garrick 221 242 INDEX. 359 PAGE PAGE Pickled Fish 248 Plum Beverage . 45 Mackerel 107 Compote . 309 Pork . 142 Stewed . * 45 Salmon 107 Vol-au-Vent . 273 Trout . 107 Poached Eggs 14 Pie, Capon . Chicken 236 203 Pork, to cut up Best . 139 139 Duckling 236 to choose 139 Eel . 205 Neck of Salted 140 142 Goose . . 236 Pickled* 142 Grouse 204, 236 Chine of 140 Hare . . 236 Cutlets . 187, 183 Lamb . 201, 203 Hashed 189 Lark . 226 Hand of 142 in Mould 234 Leg of, Roasted 139 Mutton 202 Boiled 142 Moorfowl 236 Loin of, a la Piemont ise 140 Partridge Pigeon . 204, 236 204, 236 Normandy fashio Pudding n 140 207 Pheasant 236 Sparerib of . 140 Poulard 236 Porridge . . 30 Rabbit . 203 Potatoes . 263 Rump-steak . 202 Varieties of . 263 Sea . 205 Baked . 264 Veal and Ham 202, 234 Boiled . 263 Fruit . 296 Fried . 264 Apple . 296 Mashed . 267 Cherry . 295 Irish way of Boiling 265 Cranberry 295 a la Lyonnaise 265 Currant 295 a la Maitre d'Hdtel 264 Damson 295 Mashed 265 Dewberry and Raspberry Gooseberry Minced Meat . . 295 295 . 295 Sandwiches . Poultry, on . . described 163 143 143 Mulberry . . 295 for Invalids . 53 Pear . 296 to draw 144 Plum . 296 to kill . 143 Quince 296 to pluck 144 Raspberry . 296 en Capillotade 193 Rhubarb . 296 Poulards, Braised . 150 Whortleberry . . 296 Boiled . 151 Pies, simple plan of making 236 with Carrots . 152 Various . 201 with Cucumbers 152 Pigeons en Compote for Invalids 200 54 Poulard Pie with duenelles 236 151 Pie 204, 236 with Rice 151 Stewed with Peas . 201 Roasted 150 Pig, Sacking . ,;, . 141 Stewed 151 Hind-quarter of Pig's Cheek . 141 142 Poults, Turkey Prawn Curry 227 215 Feet a la Ste. Menehould 189 Preserved Goose . 155 Stuffed . 188 Prussian Cutlets . 191 Kidneys 189 Pudding, Meat 205 Head, like Wild Boar's . 243 Black . 20 to braise 243 Beefsteak 205 Pike, to cook 105 Kidney 207 Sauce Matelote . 106 Ox-Kidney . 207 Pillau, Fowl 209 Lamb . 206 Mutton . 210 Mutton 206 Pine- Apple . . . 322 Pease 209 Piquante Sauce Plovers Sauted with Truffles . 66, 186 224 Pork Rabbit 207 208 Pie . 236 Suet 2oa 360 INDEX. PAGE PAGE Pudding, Toad-in-Hole . Veal . 208 207 Rabbit Pie . Pudding 203 208 Yorkshire 208 Raised Pies 235, 236 for Invalids and Children 47 Ramifolle . 190 Apple and Rice Bread . 47 48 Raminole, Cheese . Raspberry Jam 303 319 Bread and Butter 48 Omelette 281 Small 48 Pie 296 Cabinet 47 Pudding 295 Custard 47 Vinegar 43 Macaroni 47 Ratafias 327 Rice . 47 Ravigote Sauce . 67, 117 Tapioca Vermicelli . 47 47 Refreshing Beverage Removes . 43 117, 296 in Moulds 291 Remains of Meat . 175 a 1'Eloise 291 Lamb 184 a la Koine 292 Duck . 157 Carrot . Chestnut 292 296 Rhubarb Compote Pie . . 311 296 Demi-Plum . 292 Pudding 295 Iced Cabinet . 297 Vol-au-Vent . . 273 Minced Meat . Nesselrode 292 296 Rice with Apples . to boil . 283 267 Trifle . 292 Broth . 34 in Cloths 293 Croquettes . 285 Apple . 294 Milk . . 38, 39 Apricot 294 with Pears 284 Blackberry 294 Pudding 47 Currant, Red and White Custard 294 294 with Apple Poulard with . 47 . 151 Damson 294 Soup . . 82 Fruit . 294 Water . 41 Gooseberry 294 Rissole Fourree . 276 Greengage 294 Rissolettes, little Fruit . 273 Nectarine 294 Ribs of Beef, Roasted 119 Marrow 294 Braised 119 Peach . 294 Roasting, on 59 Plum . 293 Roasts, Second Course 227 Plain Baked . 293 Robert Sauce 67 Plain Bolster . 294 Root, Beet . . 258 Plum Bolster . . 293 Rolls, to make 10 Raspberry and Cherry Rowley Powley 295 293 Brioche Roux 12 65 Rhubarb 295 Rump Steak . 52, 124 Whorts 295 Rum, Omelette with . 2S1 Puff Cheesecakes . 303 Jelly . 287 Paste . 268 Russe, Charlotte . 289 Pulled Fowl for Invalids . 54 Rusks, to make 11 Pullets, on . 228 Roasting 228 Saddle of Lamb . 137 Roasted, with Cresses Punch Jelly 227 287 Sago Gruel . Salad, Beef. 40 167 Cold . 333 and Potatoes 167 Fish . 247 Quails 232 Fowl . 249 Quenelles. Ragout Sauoe 73 Game . 248 with Tongue . 151 Lobster 246 Quince Pie . 296 Miroton 245 Plain . 246 Rabbit, on . 232 Tartar . 7" 246 Roasted 232 Salads of Fruit 321, 322 Curry . 211 Salmon, Boiled 94 Fricassee of . 199 Broiled 95 Gibelotte of . 200 Curry . 215 INDEX. 361 PAGE PAGE Salmon, Marinade . 248 Sauce, Soft Roe . 111 Matelote 94 Sorrel . . . 71 Pickled 107 Soyer's . 69 Salmi of Partridge 223 Spinach 72, 260 Pheasant . . 22-2 Tomato 69,75 Salsify 256 Tartar . 75,248 Sandwiches 333 Turnip . . 71,72 Sauces, on . 64 Tarragon 67 Sauce, Anchovy . 112 White . 64,71 Anchovy Butter .69, 117 Wild Boar's Head 244 Beans, French, 72 Wild Fowl . 233 Beyrout 114 Sardines and Toast 15 for Meat 115 Salt Pork . 142 Brown . . 65,66 Sorrel Sauce 71 Cucumber Mushroom Beurre Noir . 67 . 66,68 98 Sauteing, on Sausage Cake Sausages, to cook . 62 146, 188 20 Button Onion . 72 to choose 19 Caper . 113 Cambridge . 20 Carrot . 73 to saute . 20,146 Cream . . 116 Atherstone 20 Chicoree 72 with Turkey * ' '"' d 146 Cauliflower . 71 Savory Dishes 234 Cucumber 67, 71, 73 Seakale 255 Curry . . 69 Semoulina Broth . 34 Demi-glaze 65 Milk . 39 Egg . 112 Soup . 82 Endive Eschalot 72 66 Shrimp Sauce Sheep s Brains . '* 12, 113 35, 176 Fumet de Gibier 233 Feet, or Trotters '176 Fennel . . . 112 Stock from 177 Fish . . Ill Head . 135 Garum . . ' ' ' 111 Heart . 184 Garurn Sociorum 111 Kidneys 17, 176 Garlic . 68 Tongue 184 Italian Herb . 67 Sheep, how to cut up 130 Jardiniere 136 which are best 130 Jerusalem Artichoke . 71, 72 Shell Fish . 250 Liaison of Eggs 68 Silver Jelly . 287 Lobster 113 Skate, to cook 104 New , 113 au Beurre Noir 105 a la Creme 114 Curry . 216 simplified 114 Soup, on . 75 Maitre d'Hdtel 73, 117, 186 Autumn 87 Matelote . 116 Artichoke 81,88 . Simple . 116 Cabbage 87 Mayonnaise . . 247 Clear . 79 Melted Butter . 112 Carrot, White . 89 Mephistophelean Minced Herb . 75 67 Cauliflower Crab . 89 92 Mint . 68 Crecy . 89 Muria .. . ; _ 111 Fisherman's . 86 Mushroom ' . 66, 68, 73, 74 Game . 92 Mussel . . . 115 Giblet . 85 Onion .. . 71, 74 Hare . 91 Orange . ' 68 Hotch Potch . 87 Oyster . . 74, 115 Italian Paste . 81 Papillote 69 Irish . 82 Peas . . 72, 73, 74 Julienne 81 Piquante . 66, 186 Lamb's Head . 84 Quenelles . 73 Lentil . 90 Ravigote . 67, 117 Macaroni 82 Robert . 67 Mock Turtle, Brown 85 Shrimp , t " . 112 White 84 t 362 INDEX. PAGE PAGE Soup, Maigre Mulligatawny . 88,91 85 Steak, Rump Stewing, on 54, 164 60 Mutton Broth . 82 76 Onion . 91 for all kinds of Soup 76 Ox Cheek 84 Brown . 77 Ox Tail 83 to Clarify 79 Oyster . 86 Economical . 76 Palestine 88 Sheep's Feet . 177 Pea . 89,90 Strawberry Jam . 319 Pot-au-Feu 92 Omelette 281 Printaniere . 80 Salad . 321 Puree of Vegetable 88 Charlotte 289 Rice . 82 Vol-au-Vent . 273 Scotch Cock-a-leekie 83 Strengthening Drink 43 Semoulina 82 Stuffing, Turkey . 148 Spring . 81 Veal . 253 Sole . Sheep's Head . 86 84 Sturgeon . Sucking Pig 96,97 141 Turnip 81,89 Hind-quarter of 141 Vermicelli 81 Sugar, to boil 313 Wild Fowl . 92 color 312 Souffle 299 clear 313 Beignet 281 in Grains 312 Biscuit . 301 of Lemon 313 Coffee . 302 Spring . 313 Cream, Whipped 301 Silk Thread . 315 Cheese . 304 Vanilla. 313 Fritters 282 Sweetbreads 173 Lemon 99, 300 Sautfe . 173 Omelette 300 au Gratin 173 Saute . 301 Sweet Lait de Poule 38 Cream . Orange Flower 301 299 Sweetmeat of Currant Jel y 320 Orange Iced . 298 Table, Breakfast . 7 Punch Cake . 298 Tapioca Milk 39 Rice Cream . 300 Pudding 48 Vanilla 302 Tarragon Sauce 67 Smelts, Broiled . 50 Tartar Sauce 75 Fried . 101 Tarts, small Fruit . 275 for Invalids . 50 Tartlets, little Fruit 275 Water Souchet 51 24 Soles, small, or Slips 17 how made in France 21 Boiled . 104 Beef . 36 Fried . 103 new way to make 25 Fillets of Curried 216 Teal, a new method of co king 225 aux Fines Herbes 104 a la sans facon 226 a la Meuniere . 103 Tench, Stewed 108 Saute in Oil . Snow Eggs . 103 217 with Anchovy Butter Toast, Plain 109 8 Snipes a la Minute Soyer's Chop Sauce . 224 180 69 and Eggs Haddock . 9 14 15 Sourcrout, to cook 262 Herring . 15 Bavarian way . SpareribofPork . 263 140 Kidneys . Sardines . 17 15 Spinach . . 260 Water . 46 with Gravy . with Cream . 260 260 Crumpets, to . Muffins 9 9 Sprouts, Brussels . 259 to serve 9 Spring Chickens . 228 Toad in a Hole 208 Sprats, to cook Dried . : . 17 17 Tongue, cold Ox . 24( Sprue-grass 255 Remains of . 124, 16S with Eggs . 217 Sheep's ^ . . 184 INDEX. 363 PAGE PAGE Tomato Sauce 69 Veal, Fillet of . . 241 Tops and Bottoms . 11 Roasted . . 125 Trout a la Bretonne 107 Braised . .241 Pickled 107 Forcemeat of . . 253 River . 107 Galantine of 241 a la Twickenham 107 and Ham Pie . 202,234,236 Trifles 290 Knuckle of . 127, 240 Trifle Pudding 292 Loin of . 125, 127 Tripe Curry 214 Neck of, Braised . . 126 Truffles, Saute of . 262 with Peas . . 126 Turbot, to cook . 102 with Haricots . . 126 French way 102 with new Potatoes . 126 a la Creme Turban of Almond Cake 102 304 Shoulder of, Stewed . . 127 with Sauce piquante 126 of Boudins of Fowl 198 Stuffed and Braised 126 of Pastry 304 Cold ... 241 Turkey, Boiled 146 Roasted . . 126 Braised 147 Braised . . 126 Broth from 147 Remains of . . 175 Blanquette of . 197 Vegetables, to cook . . 253 Boudins of 197 Artichokes . 259 with Celery Sauce 147 Jerusalem . . 259 to choose 144 Asparagus . . . 253 where from . 144 Beans, French . . 259 Giblets. . . 155 a la Maitre d'Hdtel 259 Gravy for 145 Gabanza . . . 262 Jerusalem Sauce 147 Haricot, White . . 260 called Jesuits . 144 a la Bretonue . 261 Galantine 238 Kidney ... 259 to dress . 238 Windsor ... 259 with Oysters . 147 Beetroot . 258 Parsley and Butte Sausages . Sausage-cake Roasted r 147 146 146 144 Brocoli. ... 257 Brussels Sprouts . . 259 Cauliflower ... 257 gratinfe with Cheese 257 Braised 148 Celery . . . .256 Stuffing for . 148 Cucumbers ... 258 to truss . 145 Laver .... 263 with Tomatos . 147 Lentils. ... 261 Stewed 149 Vegetable Marrow . . 257 Poults . 227 Mushrooms . . . 261 Tureen of Game . 237 large . . .261 Potatoes, their Introduction . 263 Vanilla Cream . 315 Baked . . 264 Souffte . 302 Boiled . . 263 Veal, on . 124 Irish way . 265 Breast of . 126 Fried. . . 264 Stuffed . 127 Fried, Mashed . 267 Stewed . 127 a la Lyonnaise . 265 Curried . 212 a la Maitre d'Hdtel . 264 Broth . 35 Peas, Green . 254 Strengthening 35 French way . 254 French fashion 35 Salsifls .... 256 Curry . 211 Seakale ... 255 Cutlets . 174 Sourcrout ... 262 aux Fines Herbes 174 Bavarian . . 263 en Papillote 174 Spinach ... 260 Saute 166 with Gravy . . 260 Chump of 125 with Cream . . 260 Fricandeau of. 170 Sprue Grass . 255 to dress 171 Truffles, English . . 262 to prepar e 170 Saute of . . 262 to carve 171 Venison . . . 142 with all Sauces 171 where to keep . . 142 364 INDEX. PAGE PAGE Venison, how to choose 142 Water, Smelts 51 Haunch of 142 Cresses with Steak 124 Neck of 143 Whitings, Boiled . 49 Vermicelli Broth . 34 Broiled 16,49 Milk . 39 Fried . 50,99 Pudding 48 au Gratin 99 Soup . 81 Forcemeat of . 252 Victimized Cutlets 191 Sauted . 50 Vinegar, Raspberry Vol-au-Vent 43 270 Fillets of White Bait, to cook 216 10J of ApptoB 273 Sauce . 64,70 Cherries 271 Whipped Jelly . 288 Fruit. 271 WhortsPie. 296 Gooseberries 272 Pudding 295 Oranges 272 Woodcock, Hashed 224 another . 272 a la Lucullus . 223 still plainer Peaches 272 271 Sportsman's fashion Widgeon, Hashed . 223 225 Plums 273 Roasted 225 Rhubarb 273 Wild Boar's Head . 243 Strawberries 273 Sauce . 244 Wild Duck, with Orange Sauce 225 Water, Barley 41 Hashed 225 Fresh Fruit . 43 Wine, Port, Negus 333 Jelly . 44 White, Fillip . 333 Rice . 41 Toast and 46 Yorkshire Pudding . . 208 Souchet 104 THE END, D. Appleton fy Co.'s Publications. ILLUSTRATED STANDARD POETS. HALLECK'S COMPLETE POETICAL WORKS. 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