593 J63 JOURNAL. in ottering this journal to the public, the writer makes no pretension* :o authorship, but believes that, although it be written in plain, off-hand style, nevertheless, some portions of it may be interesting to the public and that if any who may chance to read it are about to "start for "Eldo- rado," they may derive some benefit from it. whether they - the knowledge of making it to us, before we got through with our trip. Ve traveled this day 24 miles down Rock river weather pleasant, < and roads good. 2 * miles. 7th. Sunday traveled about 25 miles, pleasant weather, but some bad roads. 25 m i les - 8th. Traveled about 25 miles to Rock Island. Pleasant weather ; bc- mnninp- to get into th* track of California teams. Took in some hard bread, visited Rock Islfnd Lodge, of I. O. O. F., where I found a cordial welcome as befitted brothers. -5 miles. April 9tk. Crossed the Mississippi to Davenport, Iowa; took in 25 bushels of corn paid for shelled corn 38 cts. per bushel, in the ear 30 cts. Purchased also most of our other necessaries, excepting meat and flour. 1 was surprised to find Davenport and Rock Island such large places. They lie opposite each other on the Mississippi, and about three miles above the mouth of Rock river. They are surrounded by a country of fertile soil on each side of the river, and bid fair in a few more years to become very important cities. We left Davenport at noon, and traveled to Hickory Grove, Scott co. roads very bad, with a snow storm towards night, 14 mile9 -. 10th. Left Hickory Grove in the morning and made 25 miles to Tip- ton, the county seat of Cedar county. Roads very bad, mud deep, mostly prairie, but o-ood land. We got sloughed once to-day, and had to carry our loads onour backs. We found Tipton full of California teams, and had to let our horses stand out for the first time, although it was a cold disagreeable night, 25 miles - 1 1th. Left Tipton in the morning and reached Cedar River about noon found the road bad enough, but better than it had been for a couple of days past We ferried across the Cedar river and drove a few miles, and put up with a crowd of California emigrants at the log house of an Irishman by the name of Nolan, a clever man, who did the best his slen- der means permitted to make us comfortable. During the night it rained and snowed, and our horses had an uncomfortable time of it, and we did not fare much better, as there were eleven of us camped on the floor of a log shanty, with the chinking pretty well knocked out, so that the wind, rain and snow had a free sweep amongst us. 15 miles. l'2th. Very windy and cold started on account of our horses, and drove twelve miles, to Iowa City, where we arrived about noon, after one of the most disagreeable day's drive I ever experienced. We laid over the rest of the day on account of the wind. We here found quite a num ber of our Lake co. friends,who had got here in advance of us. 1 2 miles. 13th. Remained in Iowa City; the wind still high and the weather very cold. Iowa City is quite a" place, with a population, as I am told, of about 2500. It is the scat of p-overnment for the State of Iowa, which JOCRNAL, APRIL 1850. ^ is its only recommendation. It is situated on the Iowa river, which is nav- igable at high water for steamboats of a small class. The' State House will be a very handsome building when finished; it is built of hewed stone, on the bank of the Iowa river, and when the work is properly fin- ished will do honor to the State. This is a gathering point for California teams, and the town is now full of them lying bye on account of bad , weather. It is supposed there are 100 wagons here now, and they keep >ming; besides, there are numbers wind bound at the Cedar river We are stopping at Swan's Hotel, the best house in the city, the re- gister of which shows the names of great numbers of our town and county people who started before us and more are coming after. This afternoon another team, or the advance guard of it, from our town came up. We' now begin to find every thing higher as we get farther advanced towards the frontiers. Corn is worth here fifty cents a bushel, and report says that towards Council Buffs there is no feed for horses and cattle of any ' kind or at any price. 14th. Sunday. We sttt lie over; the weather has become more mod- orate, though it is still colP, the wind has gone down, so that it is more comfortable travelling, consequently most of the teams have left town m their route. They stretclfroff across the prairie this morning as far as the eye can reach, quite an army of themselves; what we shall find when we get to the Missouri riyer, it is impossible to tell; judo-ino- from present appearances there will be one of the largest armies cono-r^gated that were ever got together at one time on this continent. Most of the the teams that go to-day head /for St. Joseph, the prospect beino- bet- ter on the road that way, and after they get there, for feed for teams than on the Council Bluffs route. We are all in too much of a hurry, for there is no probability of our being able to leave the frontiers before the I Oth of May, for want of feed, consequently we shall have to tarry two weeks at some point, and we think it best lie" bye at several different points than all at once. April 15th. Monday. Left Iowa City this morning, for Washington, Bounty seat of Washington co. Country mostly roling prairie for the' first 15 miles; soil very good, and good road, being the military road built by Government. Streams all bridged with the best bridges that I have seen in Iowa. The balance of the road to Washington having left the military road is very bad; no bridges ; got sloughed in a creek,occasioned by our hindmost evener breaking; after unloading we got our wagon out with one span of horses. This creek was within about a mile and a half >f Washington. I think there is no better evidence of the want of enter- prise in the inhabitants, than to find such places unbridged on main roads near villages. We went on with one span of horses, but it beino- very ark we got sloughed again, and had to leave our wagon and go onto the Jilage, where we arrived cross and hungry about eight o'clock, having 5 miles, and had the hardest day's work since we left home. How- ever, we found an obliging landlord, which made up somewhat fo- our trouble. The country for the last part is flat prairie and very wet. I should think it worthless. 28 miles. 16. Unloaded our wagon and got it out of the mud again this morning A:, Carted for Brighton, Washington co. 1 1 miles. Country rolling, the best .HHK.\AI APRIL 1850. land on the cast .side of the Skunk river, that I had seen in Juwa, being rolling openings. Crossed the Skunk river on a, ferry. Arrived at Brigh- ton about 2 o'clock, P. M. ; commenced snowing soon after, and we had oue of the hardest snow storms of the season. Continued snowing until midnight. The town is full of California teams, some going to Council Bluffs, and some to St. Joseph. 11 mile 5 17th. Laid over at. Brighton. Snow this morning about two inches deep; the day pleasant but cool; the wind in the North A r est. Brighton is quite a small village, has three or four stores, one steam saw mill, be- sides a fair share of mechanics and other business men. We found good accommodations, with the worthy landlord, Mr. Yates, and. spent a pleas- ant day. The snow went off by noon, but left the roads muddy. 18th. Left Brighton this morning for Fairrield, Jefferson co., where we arrived without accident, but found the roads muddy ; weather warm and showery, most like spring of any day this month. 15 miles. 'lOth. Stopped last night at the Eagle Hotel, and I must say it was the nastiest hole I ever got into, and everyth^ig else was in perfect keep- ing, and to make matters even worse, the Widlord charged the highest bill that we had paid on the road. Started this morning for lowaville, sixteen miles, where we arrived .about four o'clock, P. M., and put up for the night. (By the way, I found an old townsman and school mate in Fairlield, that I had not seen for thir- teen years, Ezra Brown, Esq., District Attorney for that judicial dis- trict, and editor of a paper there. Of course I stopped to visited him an hour or two, and then passed on on this journey of time. Shall we ever meet again ?) 20th7 Crossed the Desmoines river this morning. This, as the Hosiers say, is a right smart chance of a river, between two and three hundred yards wide, and would be navigable for steamboats one hundred miles above here, if it were not for the dams below, of which I understand there arc nine. lowaville is situated on the bank, and is only a hamlet of log huts, with a grocery or two, but has a steam mill building, and one in operation on the other bank. We crossed on a ferry charge 75 cts. Most of our route to-day lay through the timber, and the best timber too, I have seen in Iowa, but we have had dreadful road?, the worst, in fact, on the journey. We arrived at Drakesville about four o'clock and put up for the night, although we could get no"roughnes"for our team, (as they call hay here ;) in fact we are getting where we find but little hay or grain. Matters look squally ahead, no hay, and grass not an ell high, and growing downwards at that. Grain we care nothing about as we have twenty days feed on bread, which will be more than we can consume before we reach St. Joseph. 20th. Drakesville is a small village of log houses,with a storc.blacksmith shop, Ve call ail lianas it 4 o'clock A. M. now, and start about past 6. Had some rain last lio-ht, when the wind shifted to the north-west, very cold, and we hare iad one of the best roads to-day that I ever saw ; plank roads are no omparison to it, and have passed" over the most beautiful prairie country a the world, with little timber, and that dwarf burr oak, but the soil is >qual to the best in Illinois. We turned cff from the road about one mile 2d camped on a branch, about 3 o'clock, P. M. The grass is still impro- vinf We have about 75 men in our company, which is too many, so many cannot agree. While I am writing, two of them are very near fight- ing, and the captain, Wm. Soublett stands between them, as this is the onlr means of keeping them apart. We cannot go on long with so many, I think Passed some more graves, and dead horses to-day ; m fact we we expect to every day. It looks bad to see so many at this end of the route 25 mlles> llth Drove 22 miles to-day. Passed a Chicago wagon broken down ' at a creek; Hurrunin, of Waukegan, belonged to the party. The coun- try is prairie, without timber, excepting a few scattering trees on the creeks. We were delayed some time by a train of ox teams at a creek ; 1 while we were watering I fell asleep, and came very near being left behind the team. Ford, came back and sroused me. I stood guard last 1 night, which was the cause of my being so sleepy; passed several dead horses, and the graves of many buried last year. 22 miles. 1 2th. Sunday! Not having a good camping spot we concluded to trav- el and made 30 miles, and reached Blue river. Here we found a large city of tents, and preaching. There were probably 2000 men camped within two miles of the crossing; and here we found wagons broken down : last year, with irons of those burnt. Voted two teams out of the tram ' this morning for disobedience of orders. The night was cold, but the 1 day was warm. We found some last year's graves, besides the usual .' amount of dead horses. This point is called 120 miles from St. Joseph, | but I think it is more. Roads good. Blue River, or as it is commonly called, tho Big Blue, is a beautifu. 1 clear stream, about eight rods wide, and at this time about three feel deep. It is a favorite camping ground for California emigrants. It has a skirt of timber, mostly cotton wood, from 8 to 100 rods wide along its west bank, and generally plenty of grass may be found, ever the emigrant is detained here for two or three weeks by 1 e higii water, when his only consolation is in hunting antelope and wild tur- JOURNAL, MAY 1850. kies, of which game there is an abundant supply on this river, and m fashing. We caught a few small cat fish after we had camped, but did not hare time to try the qualities of the stream for fish to any great extent This stream is in the Pawnee country, and consequently I would advise all emigrants whfhunt remote from the road and their trains, to be on their guard,for the Pawnees are a very treacherous,hostile race, and would not be likely to omit of an opportunity offered to strip a solitary hunter and send him in minus his gun, clothes, and perfectly na- ked, for they seem to be a people much given to such practical jokes, aa some who have traveled this road can testify. 30 miles'. 13th. Made about 25 miles to-day, but found but little grass. Have had a good road, and a very hot day. Litwiler and myself scouted to- day for a good camping ground, and found one where there was good grass and water, but no wood except a few dry willows, which we made answer our wants for the night. We had the misfortune to burst one of our inside hub bands whilst wedging up the boxes this evening, which al- though a small matter in the States, jr.et may prove a very serious one out here on the plains, two hundred miles from a blacksmith's shop, as it may be the means of losing our wagon. 25 miies. 14th. Made an early start and traveled 28 miles; passed a new made grave (made this morping) of a young man who accidentally shot him- .hrough the head, whilst in the act of taking a rifle out of the wag- on with the muzzle towards him. He was from Illinois. We have had a dry, hot day, and the dust has been very annoying to us. Litwiler and myself scoured the creek bottoms to-day again in search of irons of wag- ons that had been burnt, and succeeded in finding some hub bands, with which I repaired our wagon so that it answered as well as before it was broken. We turned off from the road this evening about a mile, and camped by a branch of the Little Blue river, where we found a plentiful supply of grass, wood and water. Litwiler killed a wild turkey this eve- ning, which was very fat We have a beautiful camping ground as the heart could desire; our wagons are circled, with the tents on the out- side hke a Tartar village, on the side of a gen tie sloping knoll, at the base f which stretches off to the river, a beautiful grove of timber through which runs a clear sparkling brook made by a copious spring which arises from the ground only a few rods from our encampment. Our horses are feeding about in sight on the side hills, cropping the rich grass, an abund- ance of which they have not had before since we started on this long jour- ney. Indeed we look, if we except the wagons, more like a wandering band of Tartars than a company of christians bound on a business excur- ion; and the appearance of our men does not tend to destroy the illu- 5ion, as sunburnt and bearded with their belts stuck full of bowie knives and revolvers, they lounge about in groups on the ground around the nres, or busy themselves amongst the horses, or in the various sports which are got up by the travelers on the plains to while away the time. But it requires a more able pen than mine to describe, vividly, a e like this. To sec it and feel it in all its beauty, one must be hund- reds of miles from civilization, out ou those great ocean like prairies, vJiere the sight of a tree is welcome to the traveler as the sight of a sail .0 the mariner when he has been for a long time traversing an unknown JOURNAL, MAY 188 He m 5l bethc re .o n abatay ur ^e, sings of grass, : the plains holds essenl scene of this kind, but beauties of nature in wVld rive a life-like picture of such fl? Remained at the same camp to-d make some repairs on the wa-- have been hunting ~ report having seen have brought in noth, in with a back loa ing any other mea - very necessary garment an Perhaps by night they may succeed change I have been busy repairing the hub t equally busy, shoeing ^ *^ cam Me. e t of the men >eing noon, and wives, &c. ; but who has just come is shirt, he not hav- ed himself of that hileotc t f ending to other t and S* tea, ( I went 16th. Traveled zo ""^A w ith sandy and rocky K face of the country is pramc di^ed wit ^ ^ s no water fit for man to drink, althoxign tner de8 ttorte- of timber the horses may drink as a last resort. Ihe co y yolcanoes and and has every appearance of having been JJJ drive that we h taking it altogether, ^^^ Syi and the dust has been We found a company camped *nc Ac ^^ ^ .^j :r vom falls m that time to turn throuch, 01 r Bended with greater respon JOURNAL, MAY 1850. . ^l: H WeVCr there no he] P for * thc <"Pr - lie voice "anT g r 7 ac( } uiescence ' ~ I was forced to yield to the "p We struck on T rd ; n ^ e , nt f re d upon the discharge of my duties. where we becal f. " , half paSt ** A " M " and miles. 24th. Continue still up the Plane bottom. We i'ov.nd some excellent springs of cool water, which were a treat to us, as wo ha\e had a very hot day, and our water has all along been muddy river water. We ue.re compelled to use buffalo chips to-day for fuel, there being no wood, i suppose many of my lady readers vould rather ii;r:i up their no.-es at a hoe cake baked on buffalo chips,but I assure them I s.aw ladies, who were genteel, that seemed to eat cakes baked with this fuel with great apparent relish. The buffalo chips used are drop] ings < f buffalo the year previ- ous. They become entirely dry, and make \eryp.od fuel, and are the main depeudancc for cooking Y..>r tl:e next 800 miles. MM! ur.til we get into the sage country. One of our men waded day while we were baiting. The water was about three feet deep, except on the sand bars, where it was often not over six inches deep. The width of the river is about one mile. We began to lind alkali on t!;o surlacc of the ground to-day. In some places it was half an i::<-h i.i depth, and tastes like air slacked sabvratus. We found but little grass on this day' s travel, but a very good, level road, and saw some antelope. 25 miles. 25th. Weather still hot, with cold nights. The wind changes about midnight, and blows cold from the west until noon of the next day, in the afternoon it dies away, leaving the atmosphere hot and sultry The wind suddenly changed this evening, and blew a perfect tornado. It would have made a 'parson splithis sides with laughter if he could have refrained from holding the hair on his own head long enough to laugh to have seen the the perfect confusion and lurmoil which our camp was thrown into when it struck us. Tents were Hying in the air, men chasing their lint, with the most persevering energy ; some were holding down their tents to keep them from tumbling down, while others were tumbling them down to keep them from being torn into ribbons, and others in the greatest ex- citement were securing the covers of their wagons to prevent their being blown away; in truth it was one of the most dolighti'ui scenes of confu- sion, turmoil and dismay that could be imagined. For our part, we had noticed the coming change a few moments before it came about, and had secured our tent to our wagon, so that it weathered the gale; ours and one other were the only ones in the camp that remained standing when the blow passed over. The tornado lasted about thirty minutes, but during that time it leveled every tent in every encampment in sight of us, (but the two in our camp.) This is the second time we have had such a blow out, but we expect to find more of them before we get through. The grass is poor to-day, and no wood except willows on the islands and buf- falo chips, of the latter of which there are a great plenty. 28 miles. 26th. Sunday. A part of our train concluded to lie over to-day, but the majority being against it, produced a split in the train,owing to which 10 wagons left us and drove on, leaving seven wagons behind This w JOtTRNAl, -V onsid f >r no detriment, although the men belonging to those wagons that left us are all of them whole-hearted, noble-souled companions. Small trains travel faster than lar^-r ones, and the difficulty of finding good c pin..- grounds for a smalltrain is not so great as for alarge one. NN ' \MT iorry"to part with tlu-in, but we parted in friendship and peace, as f ought t-> do on this journey. Some of them wish to travel \ mie, which is 330 miles from Fort Kcarncy.before stopping, but we wish to rest our horses one day in every seven, and are determined whenever we can find o- r ass to make that day the Sabbath. We are all very busy keeping the Sabbath., which is dune here after this fashion : xerci of the morniag, shaving and cleaning \\ith a plunge bath in the Flatte river. Forenoon, setting wagon tire, repairing wagons. Afternoon, si incr hors-:s, washing clothes' .fee. Arc. K veiling, rest which is ad the tun we "ct to rest. Our stopping days are no resting days to us, but our hor- ses need it, they look well now, and we mean to keep them looking wel. if we c'iii. Wo have throe blacksmiths in our train, and one wagon ma leer. We set the tire on Ainsly's wagon this morning in a manner that would be now 10 blacksmiths in the States. Not having any means weldia" tin-, we took them off from the wheels, took all the felloes oil, and then put leather cottrells or rings on the spokes thereby raising the shou - der of the spoke and enlarging the -circle of the wheel, then put the ft Iocs on ao-ain, and then heated the tire, and set it as tignt as blacksmith could do, with a forge and bellows to cut and weld the ties This valley is lined with buffalo bones and carcasses, their skulls he about in every direction. One. of our men found 18 yesterday in one spot at tb foot of a hi'rh bluff. They were probably driven over the blurt by t Indians. We saw no buffalo to-day, although there were plenty ot signs thev ann.-ar to come down to the river at night to get water, and go back to the plains in the morning. The bottom is about two miles wide here.and on tht> 'bluffs may be found some few scattering cedars. Litwiler killed a noble- bu.-k to-dav. Itsh-.'.rns were in the velvet, and the meat good. H made us plenty of meat for the whole company, and some to spare. beaver dam at this place. "7th We stvuck our tents again this morning and started. A\ e_ have had a very cold duv, so mu.-.h so that we needed great coats and mittens. and I have suffered more with cold than on any day since I started had a smart shower in the morning, which was welcome. Hie country o this day's drive looks like a huge buffalo pasture, the ground being cov- ered with buffalo chips like a farm-yard. The emigrants before us have been slaughtering them without mercy. We counted eight fresh L slaugh- tered ones within one mile distance. We were informed to-day that * Pike & Strother's train lost 25 mules and horses in a stampede last night We crossed the south fork of the Plattc this afternoon. It is about thr* fourths of a mile wide here, whl h is the south or lower ford, but we had to travel in the river at least a mile and a half, the wind and current swee- pimr us dow;i the river, so that our course lay in the form of a half circle. Th* water was about up to our wagon boies, one ol th-rn taking water , ruling is one oi the exciting scenes of this journey, i we crossed, tb :th wagon?, men, mules and horses, ev tonding quite across thr river One -f Out wHorjns got Stuck in th * (J JOURNAL, MAY 18.M/. sand which frightened the horses, but frightened the driver more. 1 on horse back myself, I rode back to assist the driver, but in our endeav- ors to start the wagon we had our doubletree broken, owing to which ac- cident I had to go ashore and send back a spare team to help thorn out.but before the team reached the wagon, and within a few minutes after I had reached the shore, the driver came ashore, bearing in hand a tin lantern, that being (in his fright) the only thing which he could find of value, to save out of the drowned wagon, which, us he supposed, would be soon buried in the quick-sand. However, after awhile, the wagon came safely ashore, when the driver had the satisfaction of depositing his tin lantern in a place of safety again in o:ic of the boxes in the wagon. He did not rehsh much being said after that about crossing the Platte, it was a disa greeable subject, decidedly. Some of the teams were towed through the river with long ropes, with 20 or 30 men dragging at them ahead of the mules and horses, up to their middles in the water. One man was riding horseback when his horse stumbled off from a sand bar into deep water] and horse and rider both went out of sight; a dozen of us started immedi- ately for him, but before we had got to him, horse and rider both came up, the horse making for the shore, and the man fur the nearest sand bar. The man lost his rifle and hat, which grieved him a great deal; the horse lost his rider, which he did not seem to tak,> to heart at all. We drove about two miles after crossing and camped on the bottom, with no fuel but buffalo chips. A stampede took place about sunset, of 150 head of hor- ses, mules and oxen, which was the largest stampede that we have seen or heard of. We were just cooking our supper. Our horses were qui- etly grazing around the camp; the men gathering buffalo chips for th<> night, or idly lounging about the fires, talking and smoking, and taking as much comfort as possible after our hard day's work, when down the river came a sound.as of distant thunder,yet more terrible to the ears of the prac- ticed emigrant on the plains ; instantly every man was on his feet listening to the approaching sounds faintly above the ncise could be heard the cry of stampede! stampede! and a dark mass enveloped in the dust could be seen moving down upon us with the speed of the Avind. Instantly eve- ry man sprang for the horses, knowing too well that if they were not got inside of the correll of wagons, before that moving mr.ss of terror and phrenzy came up to them they were lost. The cooks threw down their frying pans, the men their pipes, and bags of buffalo chips, and the whole plain looked more like bedlam broke loose than a quiet camping ground : some shouted and belabored the poor beasts, who already began to feel the infection, others lugged away at the longlariets of their mules who dog- ged and sullen, threw themselves on their reserved rights, and braced back on all fours with their long ears turned back and their eyes half closed, seemed to say to the unhappy knights who were so energetically tugging them along, no you don't you can't come it, if you do, just let us know, but in they had to go, in spite of their resolution and firmness. During this time, which occupied less space than I have been in recording it, the infuriated mass kept rushing down towards us, sweeping everything of stock kind .along with them that came in their way. The matter be- gan to look serious for us, although we had succeeded in getting all of our stock within the circle of our wagons, when suddenly, when within a quar- ter of a mile of us they took a turn and went dashing over the hills like a torrent, and a few minutes after them went 30 or 40 men on horses wni they had secured, riding madly en to keep in sight of the terrified ani- mals; on went the mass, and on went the riders, over hill and gul through the darkness of night in their "break-neck" career, until 1 cametothe North Fork of the Platte, when fortune favored the riders, for the stampede took down the river towards the forks of the two nvi Excitement reigned through evory camp that night. Many had their stock, their sole dependence for the prosecution of their J urn . e y> O1 even their safe return to the States. Families, men, women and child thrown out in the wilderness hundreds of miles from civilized beings, ^and their main hope ^ne. "Would those in pursuit recover the horses would thev dash on over those boundless plains in the frenzy of fear grow- ino- more frantic as they proceeded, as many had before them, until ni tare could stand no more, and then drop dead in their tracks . questions were often asked, and many were the tearful eyes that night that sought without avail rest and sleep. All night long the darkness was rendered hideous bv the blowing of horns, firing of guns, and the shout- ing of men to warn", if perchance any straggler from the pursuing party should be on his return, of the whereabouts of the camp and few were the eyes in those camps through which the stampede had taken i course that closed in sleep that night. The stampede continued down the river until it was stopped by the two rivers coming together, wnict oncchavino- checked their mad career, they were soon surrounded by t* pursuers ami safely secured, with the exception of one horse, which had broken his neck. "Reader, if you wish to realize all the anxiety and hor- ror of a stamoode, go out. in the plains hundreds of miles from help where ouf h^s ? are 'as necessary I your safety as the ^ *"** at sea See amovino- body of stock coming down towards your horses snortino-. neighing, bellowing and braying, enveloped in a perfect cloud of dust making thecarth tremble under their feet: witness the distended nostril the o-listenino- eye, and the fierce snort and neigh of your own horse as you cling to him L dear life, and as he kicks and stampede approaches, and the madness grows upon him to beak from you and join them in their mad rareer-go out and see and feel all these things, when perhaps your life hangs upon the result, and then yo have some idea of a stampede; but otherwise you cannot 20 miles 28th. We traveled up the south Fork about eight miles, when we left the river and crossed the dividing ridge between the two forks t< north branch of the Platte. The country is barren be baf a few miles from its, but after travclm- about twelve milos they thofct it looked quite ES far as when they started, and they turned back ; hey got into the camp about eleven o'clock at night * 3d Drove twenty-nve miles, und passed the_ Chimney Rock. \V e camped about two miles back from the river on 4he bottom, and about four miles from a hr^e bluff resembling the formation which we named Fort Whiter, from its white appearance. Seven/of the boys went ou on a wild goose chase to the bluffs for wood, there being af ew ceda-s in sight which appeared to be not over Iwo miles distant; hey started about four P. M. andgot back atten o'clo^t n.ght P r f ^ v f fa ' tirrued with no fuel, being unable to reach the cedars. % * Had a heav'y raiuVt night, and got a late start but drove thirty miles and caught up with the rest of our company who left us on Sunda We passed Robadove's trading post, at Scott'*, bluffs and camped about two miles from it at a spring of clear cold wattr gfebing ** This ought to be called the Rock of Horeb, situjted as it is m ad land. Our road to-day led back from the mer.ajl we have had a scarcity of water for our horses. /\ . We have had a dry, hot day, with great seafcif.of grass. The country is crettingmore barren. Found an indifteren^camying ground. 6th. Passed another French trading pSst to-day with its .usual accon paniment of Indian wigwams. Litwiler swaped/horses with an o d In^ dian who took a fancy^to his horse because \lfy white, and Ins squaw wanted it, he said. We reached Fort Laramie'.atfout four o clod i P. M., forded thi Laramie rjver, and camped about two piles from th fort or i the bluff, the authorities at the Fort prohibiting emigrants from camping ioe, th 7th alle Rema5ned this day at the camping ground to write home, tbag ; ; ' being a post office at the Forfe. There are a great many wagons this 8 point by many taking to packing. Thousands of dollars wo^d t, property being thrown away, but anything w,e wish to buy, we , h deep pay P double price for. Fort Laramie is situated^ the junction of hMiles. amie and Platte rivers, and surrounded.by high bluffs, being ^f"*** of the Black Hills. It is 630 miles from St Joseph, and 500 from a i no cil Bluffs. The fort is built mostly of adobies,or un burnt brick and res<. Huge Fort Kearney. The garrison consists of about 300 men at this triers the The CouncilBluffs road comes in at this place and the soldiers 1 rv across the Platte by which they make conftderable money ouUid to r> funs, n road and JOLKNAL, JUM; ib.M'. Illl'll I M n/),l !-(., ../I rm^.. :,, ,. r.-_,l t 1 > buy a library fur the ; ,.,, ^vv-iuill near the fort, aUhough the fort lack Hllls > sotne 10 miles distant from 8th. Struck our tents this morning anigtartcd on the Black Hills road The majority of the teams have gone upWhe Piatte bottoms iVp h-uv found CtnnA ^-oco tn.A-.lv ige hen is excellent cavory eating We are now in the sage country ; it resembles our cultivated sao- C) but is more bitter and grows about two feet high; also great abundance of prickly pear the' ground being sometimes covered for acres in one bed. ' The prickly pear covers the ground here* to that extent that we are frequently compelled to lear away with our spades space to erect our tents, it not bein- particu- larly agreeable to the seat of honor to sit down ou the long sharp thorns Inis must be a healthy country.although a barren cold one, being constaut- 7 mi? lg ^ T' T hl>h <*" be seen ut a11 times in the y^r. 26 miles. ETti Th Y ad m rQing l ed U P thc valk T of the creek about sk mles, then struck across to another creek eight .miles; after bavin* the creek we found a spnng of good water; five miles from this spring we came to Horse Creek. Here' were great numbers camped, beino- just seventeen miles to the next water, with but little -rass on the route The latter part of the day's 'drive has been rough and .sandy. We passed two men on the creek makiiw pack saddles. They had given away their wa*. ons and thrown away tlfeir other pn-nerty. Wagons, harness, stoves an & d all kinds of property we find strewn along the road now. We had a tre- nendous hail storm this afternoon. The hail fell two inches deep some of the pieces of which were an inch in diameter. Many who were exposed had their lips and cheeks cut through by the hail. The storm beat our tents down, and we Bad to 'crawl under the wagons for shelter from its fury. ^ We got up our tents again after the storm passed over, but had to sleep m three inches depth of mud through the nic/ht. 20 mile* the- 1( 7Vn W f W6 C ^ mped Iast r "S ht opposite Laramie's Peak, distant 'he i? Ut miles ' We first saw the Peak at a distance ^ ^0 miles. It K the^^ r OV n e - d Wi ? Sn W> Wbich m;ikes ifc a Pr^incnt object We grass. eek ab Ut Doon - Have had a ]iill y road to-day. and one hui th ' p am Pf d , last ni S ht at t he ^ed Stone Quarries. Here we found as BunJu beautl j u1 ' P ure specimens of white free stone. It was soft and /an be Ut y Wlth a kcife - The real free stone is e( l" all y soft when and a 1- C ,? meS Ut f the ^ uarr y- We have had muddy roads to-day, and is said ? n i 6n country to travel through, with but little grass. Passed but is w j,!' , f c we had another severe hail storm. Saw a fine horse House i Jen ft behind to ' da y- His feet had Become injured for want to-night. 66 ' 22 mils - JOURNAL, JUNE 1850. 25 12th. We saw a good vein of coal to-day, about ten inches thick. It was on the bank of the Platte river, where the water had washed the bank away. I examined it, and found it of good quality. A camp near us lost twenty-six horses anjft one mule last night, by a stampede. We have heard to-day that they Imve found sixteen of the horses, and mule. Country barren, and grass poor. Passed the Deer Creek to-day, which is a beautiful stream, with cotton wood trees growing on its banks. Fuller and Ingalls caught a mess of small fish out of it. 22 miles. 13th. Reached the Upper Platte ferry about noon. We found four boats, two belonging to the Mormons, and two to a St. Louis company. The charge for crossing is four dollars per wagon, and 50 cents for ahorse or mule. The celebrated Kit Carson is here with a drove of horses and mules for sale. I did not see him, he being out on the hills with stock. The country is very barren here, the Black Hills reaching down within a few miles of the river, and covered with snow. Crossed the river and camped on a barren hill-side without grass, which was the best spot that we could find. 15 miles. 14th. To-day's drive has been over a desert bearing nothing but wild sage, and crickets which cover the ground, and seem to get as fat as it if they had something to eat. They were so nu- merous that we could -not step without crushing some of them. Passed an alkali spring and pond 12 miles from the ferry ; also the Willow Springs, 28 miles from the river. Found good water at the Willow Springs, but no grass. Camped on Prospect Hill in full v Peaks of the Rocky Mountains, and have hi drive, with san dy road. 30 mile . s - 15th. Very cold day; have to wear our overcoats and mittens. Rained all night and forenoon, with a right smart chance of a snow storm. After the snow storm had blown out we had one of the most splendid views of the Rocky Mountains that the mind could conceive. They were clothed with pure white snow from base to summit, gigantic specimens of Nature's monuments. Passed some small creeks to-day furnishing some good water ; also several alkali lakes and swamps. Thousands of wagon loads of pure saleratus and pearlash could be got here. The crusting over some of the swamps readily supported a man walking upon it We gathered some for use and found it much stronger than the manufactured article, but think it contains some poisonous property, as the bread made of it af- fected us disagreeably. I should advise all to observe caution in using it Passed the Independence Rock, which is a huge mass of granite covered with the names of thousands who have gone before us. Crossed the Sweet Water river, which is about 10 rods wide, and three feet deep at the ford, and camped one mile from the crossing. Sunday. 16th. Moved our camp up to the foot of the mountain where we found a good spring of water and some grass. We are now fairly in the Rocky Mountains, and a ragged looking country it re. Huge piles of granite reared upon each other, covered with snow renders the prospect picturesque, but cheerless. Weather cold and windy. 17th. Passed the Devil's gate, a narrow chasm in the rock, said to about four hundred feet deep, through which the Sweet Water runs, resembles the dells on the Wisconsin river. Have had a sandy road JOURNAL, JUNK 1850. poor grass. Bought a light wagon and harness this evening for 10 dollar* baw several heavy wagon* that had been left on the road, owing to the 18th, Crossed the Sweet Water three times to-day. Got in with a train of ox wagons which hindered us so much that we turned out and camped at 3 o'clock, P. M. Found good grass at camp, but have had sandy roads and no grass on the drive. Left our heavy wagon, for the good of other comers, who will probably burn it. Ice made last night half an inch in thickness. 19th. Started at half past three o'clock this morning, and passed all the 01 trains in their camp ground.the Sweet Water, four miles from can from which crossing we will have 16 miles to travel without water or grass Saw several dead oxen along the 16 miles, which were killed by alkali. Crossed the Sweet Water again passed one tent on the river of a man and his wife, the man down with the mountain fever. Roads sandy and grass poor. We overtook the balance of our company, who left us last Sunday, again to-day. This is the second time they have left us, and we have overtaken them within three days afterwards, which shows pretty conclusively,! think, that nothing is gained by driving Sundays. 2 8 miles. 20th. Got up into the region of snow to-day, and have passed several snow banks alongside of the road in the ravines. Road better, but no grass to speak of. We passed the 10 wagons to-day which left us on the down with the mountain fever. Crossed a branch of the Sweet Water and the Willow Creek, and camped about a mile from the latter. We passed to-day a grave made yesterday of a man found with his throat cut He had in his hand when found, a jack knife, and near him was found a scanty supply of provisions. He had committed suicide. It was evident that he was a foot packer, and had probably become depressed by his jour- ney and the gloomy prospect of his not being able to get through his long journey with his slender supply of provisions. Poor fellow; he had become discouraged in prosecuting one long journey, and had entered up- on another longer journey, with, perhaps, less preparation than upon the hrst His name was not known. 20 miles. 21st. We lost pur horses this morning, which hindered us some time, for the last time; 10 miles from the crossing is the summit of the Rocky mountains at the South Pass, which we reached at noon. It /s known by t*o conical shaped mounds or hills, about 60 feet high. N o one would ver suspect this to be the summit, the country is so level, and the as :ent of the whole distance is so gradual. Three miles from the summit we reached the Pacific Springs, on of the heads of the Colorado river of the CrUlf of California. Camped at the springs over night, found plenty of grass, but the swamps are very miry. At this place the California impress mail stops to take letters back to the States for the emigrants. Ihe DHCP. nfamrKn~ v.o/,1,. !*< ,_ :_ r/- _ _ mi *i -., .. to . & " ^^"bo. JLUI> vbu^j AW neuruiJB oaiiie p to-night and camped with us. They have two more men down with ever, making 16 in all. They intend going the Salt Lake route from here,but we shall go the Sublett cut-off. 1 7 miles. JOURNAL, JUKE 1850. 22cl Left early this morning and reached the Big Sandy river at night. We had no water the first 25 miles excepting from one small brackish creek. Passed the forks of the Salt Lake and Sublett cut-off, roads 14 miles from the Springs. The right hand road, the Sublett cut-off, the left, Fort Bridges and Salt Lake. The road along this day's drive has shown plenty of the evil effects of want of grass, water, &c., in the numerous skeletons of stock left last year along the road. The country is barren deserts, destitute of grass, and covered with wild sage. We found^ plenty of grass towards the mountains about three miles from the river. ' We have had a hot day, although the mountains, as far as we can see are covered with snow. 31 miles. 23d. Sunday. Remained on the Big Sandy to-day. Great numbers are camped here intending to cross the Big Sandy and Green River des- ert to-night. One of our company Thos.~Trimble, was taken sick yester- day with mountain fever; by my advice he was brought along by his part- ner, Col. Sublett, who ha' intended to remain back with him. He is very much better to-day, which inclines me to think that it would be better in most cases to travel with the patient in that fever than to lie bye. The Big Sandy is about 10 rods wide, and 18 inches deep at this time, and is a branch of the Colorado of the West. 24th. Started last night at five o'clock, P. M., to cross the desert, which is not so much a desert as a great deal of the country over which we have already traveled. It is destitute of water, but we found considerable grass. Arrived at the Green River about noon, having traveled all night. only stopping occasionally to rest our teams. The distance, as measured by a roadometer belonging to Dr. Reed's Pennsylvania train, was 41 miles, but I was told that a road turned off 25 miles from the Sandy which shortened the distance to Green River, to 30 miles. It was but little traveled, owing to which we missed it, being in th e night when we passed it. Five miles from the river we had a bluff to descend which was 300 feet high, and almost perpendicular,but we got down without accident by locking both hind wheels and sliding. Last year the emigrants were obliged to take their wagons to pieces and let them down with ropes. We had a beautiful moonlight last night for traveling. Our road led in sight of the snow mantled peaks of the Rocky Mountains, which looked with the moon beaming upon them, like mountains of molten silver. It was one of the most magnificent views that I have ever witnessed, and richly repaid me for the loss of rest in crossing the desert in the night to attain it. We brought a packer across the desert in our wagon who was una- ble to travel on horse back,from sickness ; he was so much better when we reached Green River that he concluded to try his horse again. Our com- pany is peculiarly fortunate, for we not only escape sickness ourselves, but are often able to relieve others who are suffering. We crossed Green River in a ferry boat and drove seven miles, passing a creek six miles from the river, and camped for the night. Found the grass poor, but good wa- ter. We paid $5 a wagon for crossing, and swam our stock. Green Riv- er is abut 15 rods wide at the ferry, with a very swift current, and gener ally deep. Some few ford above the ferry, but it is attended with great danger. One wagon went rolling down the stream, while we were there. One horse belonging to it was drowned, but the men were sated by the JoimxAr,. JUNE 1850. ferryboat. One went down yesterday in the same manr stand that 14 men have been drowned'here this season S crc sin, is worth here $50 per hundred Ibs. Green River presents the mantie scenery m the world ; it is deep set in the midst of Waft tha the shapes O f towers, castles, cities, and of every imaginable work of art The bottom is smooth at intervals, lookin^ like a kwn -if h t viewed from the summit of the bluffs mfa^erin^firo^ lot','? 8 silver thread winding through .green lanlTpf, whilst "a diSt snnJf ^T- K S6en tie .P eaksof the Rock .Mountains covered with snow, from their bases to their summits, roaring their heads far into * 2L O^thT f, hln - m UP n ? em Cau - 8in S th " m to S^ten like burnished sili , er. On tne other side are Green River mountains^ which, though let lofty, are quite as p.cturesque, having their valleys relieved by groves of Dine, the green contrasting agreeably with the "naked brown rocks com Dosing the mountains. It is out of mv no, t. ^ * C m " in summer, and than its beauty r rises int " c ww R V .ce we left the Pacific Springs, bit cold night, ' ^ ^3^ a ml K lm 1! ! amp r t0 - da y to recruit our horses. A man died ab r ek his enn r o e mou o !S lE eV S?"* Md cau S ht f fiuc me ^ of salmon, one of which weighed They are an excellent kind offish, and very well flavored? the ^W^ ^ W ^rt t ^U St 7i! edagain ] hi u m0rnin " ear ^ Raveled up the creek about " We h aCC Untof the dust which ^"^suftbcati, gS "^ thin ffr VeS at the foot of the T 1K doth h;,, ! mb , ed ne Snow bank 20 feet h %b. "otwithsta, h Sf to aWnV D m , 6 f the da - V JS S intcnae - We have had ^eep We croS" d : 8 ' ain .^ da 7; but the ""-st "f it is in descending tbeaJ- cwLSffin^T^TS 8 StTeam ' " ame UnknOWn ' Fuller an ^ I Jonathan of ifd hns In?,? trou i,. whlle we e Wng about it. W, have had plenty ^ Gr< HH ?;- T u y "^oshonees or Snakes. Camped this n./t tI, at th Bear Hrd -nrampinenf, on the summit betv^n JOURS AI., JUSE 1850. Green River and Bear River. We are above snow yet. and have found rrass and water. Ve had some very bad hills to descend to-df *u* *i, mirks. around the mountain I ever saw, sometimes raising pendicular rocks threo feet high, sometimes jumping off sirn We broke the bolster to our wagon-others experienced other Some in advance of us had been still more unfortunate, as ^ wagons along the road plainly proved. We drove about 12 mil JOURNAL, JUtY 1850. e " m ' W " ere " C 'o" 1 " 1 */ * gras,, . cauht This afternoon we bad some tremendous hills to cl !' h ?^, over combs of rock, but at ^ ot as tiresome as the descent /v. . , " Kicuisui.il r** sufficiently tiresome, though nigh, We -snsrS^*2as = ?-E l ted at the point where he B^ K ,2^^ / he S P rin * s are 4th. Not havi - - - *wt'v iaiitres 01 s with vegetation. The Springs plain covered with cedars through liver. To the west may be seen iow a barren plain, covered with wild sane n account of the numerous chasms of uV , /awning mouths on its surface. Probablv sities m the world than the Soda Springs se springs is equal to the best soda. We 'tried it a most pleasant beverage. One of then j, is a great curiosity of itself. It has a com 2 cavity of which may be six or eight inches in * and recedes in this shaft every few minutes steam on a steamboat, hence its name. There and springs containing other minerals, and five urLake. Wo J> av \, J u n-tops are covered with snow. \V e have or the first time since we crossed the fs, with d very JOURNAL JULY 1850. concluded to travel to-day. The Fort Hall road here t b n e ff ars o ^ th k e ee ^[' which is also the Oregon route; the Soda Springs cut-off route keeps rectiY across the old crater. We concluded to go the alter route. About lollesTaveltook us over the cratar, and six mfe. ^ -ore over the hills to a branch of the Lewis or Snake River, a branch of the Colum ba River where we found another Indian village, with some :Mcx- fcans, and about th?ee hundred of the most beautifnl -ky Mo- ,-rr --j *u~ .,;u n ,. onH tfnrmpd to bait on tue siae few rods from our camp, to celebrate our Nation drank our punch, and given three cheers for 01 surned our march. Soon after starting we came broken down, who were about to take to packing. 25 miles. I- ever traveled in; stupei snow, rearin* ild wheat, clover and and recover their manhood. 6th. Drove about 11 mil 23 miles. ires any. We called i ., . i- i this the Emigrant's Pass. It seems as if nature construct, "" plain expressly for the benefit of us poor mortals but ,f dame moved by any such kindly feelings towards us when sho was enga ed on this excellent natural road, she must have got sadl y "iffed when^ got it completed to the top of the mountain, for we bad one o the most tre mendous descents to make on the other s.de, that we have had on tho journey. The descent was probably one thousan d fe et within the first mile, steeper than the roof of a house. It is said of an aneie ^^; that he commenced by lifting a kid, and by continuing to ^^w got so that he could lift an ox. This is somewhat the JJ^'1 we commenced the journey, trifling hills were considered gre but now we lock our hind wheels and slide down a *^*** rocks, and through gullies, with m-*-*"** "SBtSff JOURNAL, JULY I860. & tunied up lo thc fwt of the u 7th. Sunday. We concluded to lie over to-dav althn i. ot so good a camping ground as we could desire ' On o& oyd, of Mineral Point, Wig, had a horse sZ This afternoon, we entered another canon, similar to the only that maead of havin a s ' * )arrcn, burning sage plain, had to cross, since leaving the Missouri ^Dcev**^ 1 " ^ , have had to pack all of our load across it on our baSs, On? ^ ddy ' abundance of i " I fy h.gh granite peaks standing about in thc greatest . JOURKAL, JULY 1850. confusion, called the Steeple Rocks. They are quite a curiosity at a dis- tance, looking like steeples rising up from the plains, some of them' many hundred feet high, and coTering more than an acre or two at the base. The road has been good. 25 miles. llth. Got an early start this morning. We had a very cold night, quite cold enough for December, but have had a very warm day. Passed the Junction of the Salt Lake and Ft. Hall roads this morning; saw some wagons coming that road, the men said they had been seven days coming from Salt Lake; that it was about 170 miles, and that they had some bad streams to cross, one of them (the Webber) 19 times. Passed a new grave at noon. We saw the team to which the person be- longed who died, go along while we were baiting; he was then alive; when we came up two hours afterwards, he was buried. He was from Missouri, and had been left sick on the road by his comrades. The team that had him in charge had picked him up and brought him along over 1000 miles and attended him until he died. Humanity sickens at such selfishness as that manifested by his comrades. They were three in number he owned one fourth of the craft in common with them, but becoming sick, the brutes left him to the mercy of Indians, wolves, or such strangers as chance might throw in his way. The scroundrels should serve 10 years in the penitentiary if they ever get back to Missouri. We find many sick on the road now, and some deaths, but three-fourths of all that are sick are from Missouri. I do not know why it is, but such, ap- pears to be the fact. This afternoon we had a long bad hill to descend, when we reached Goose Creek, and traveled up a few miles and camped for the night We have had an abundance of grass and water to-day. A singular look- ing gigantic bluff of rocks lies directly opposite from us, whicfc we call the castle, and it looks like an ancient castle, with its mossy battlements and sturdy towers. I saw some of the most beautiful specimens of white mar- ble to-day that it hast been my fortune to examine. There was a quarry of it filling a mountain. It was as pure as alabaster, and probably has not a rival in the world. Horse shoe nails sold to-day for 25 cents a piece. 25 miles. 12th. Followed up theGoose creek 13 milcs,thcn up a spring branch thro* a gorge in the mountains and across some barren ridges without water, about 12 miles, when we entered the Thousand Spring Valley. The ridge that we crossed is composed almost entirely of lava, or melted stone, and is very rough and sharp to travel over. We did not camp until after dark, their being no grass at the first springs, and then we camped in the wild sage without grass, but vre could go no farther that night Four- teen horses ran away whilst we were getting our supplies. Some of them were found during the night, and the rest in the morning ; they had found good grass up in the hills. Most of our men were out all night, so that this night seems but a continuation for the morrow. 30 miles. 13th. Crossed the ridge from the Thousand Spring Valley to the Cold Creek Valley about 12 miles, no grass or water. Cold Creek is a dry creek where we struck it, but- furnishes some water for stock. Our course lay up the creek, which we followed up to near its head, where we camped it some good springs impregnated with sulphur. We found plenty of ^,r;i- > M JOURNAL, JULY 1850. at night, and have seen considerable quantities of alkali through the day. We passed the grave of a man drowned July 1st, [1850] but cannot im- agine where it happened, as there is not water enough in the creek to drown a man, if if he should lie down expressly for that purpose. The dust has been very oppressive to-day. 23 miles. 14th. Sunday. Laid over to-day. Weather very warm,but cold last ni^ht Jonathan killed a sage hen to-day ; we found it good, delicate flavored meat, much better than prairie hen. A packer had a horse shot last night with an arrow about 10 miles below us; another man lost two horses and four oxen which were stolen by the Indians. loth. Got an early start this morning, traveled about four miles and came to the hot springs. They are curiosities worth visiting. They boil up like water iu a kettle, and are hot enough to cook eggs. I attempted to put my hand into one of them to the wrist,bnt could not get it in to the knuckles without scalding. An amusing story is told of some Dutchmen who came to it, and stopped their teams by its side, when one of them went to the spring.and seeing it boiling up clear and limpid, threw himself down on the ground and thrust his face into the water, but instantly sprang to his feet with his eyes staring, and brushing the hot water from his face with both hands, he screamed out, " Trive on, Honce, trive on ; hell ishno more dan five milsh from here!" The springs smell strong of sulphur, and discharge a large quantity of water. Near them are some good cold springs. Four miles from these springs we left the Mormon trace which leads over to Kanyon Creek, and passed through a valley to a branch of the Humbolt River. Road good but dusty, not much grass. At the point where we left the Mormon trace, we found an excel- lent spring of pure cold water, as cold as ice water. We passeed a natu- ral well near the place -where we struck a branch of the Humboldt, and camped two miles below at some sulphur springs, strongly impregnated with alkali. This well has no soundings that have ever been reached, there are also some of the same in Thousand Spring Valley. The whole coun- try hereabouts has been at some day past a great volcanic crater, and its distinctive features at this day will remind one of that place spoken of above by the honest Dutchman, rather than pertaining to earth. We have passed springs gushing out of the rocks to-day so poisonous that a wine glass full would kill a man as soon as so much arsenic. They can be told by the smell for 40 rods before reaching them. We found good grass to-night, although there was considerable alkali mixed with it 33 miles. 1C. About 10 miles drive brought us to the Humboldt, which is about '20 yards wide and three feet deep. We crossed it and followed down it on its west bank. The valley here is wide and filled with abundance of excellent grass, clover, wild oats, wheat and red top. The day has been very hot and dusty, yet on both sides of us, but a few miles distant, the tops of the mountains are covered with snow. We passed two new graves to-day ; one of them was of a man who was shot by an Indian whilst on ^uard on the night of the 2d of July, and died on the fifth. His name was was Oliver; he was from Waukesha, Wis. The Indians are rather troublesome of late, as the Diggers always are when they dare to be. We tind a great maw- dead horses now, and some that are left alive, the ef- JOURNAL, JULY 1850. fectsof hard drivino- and alkali. The most of the dead, stock heretofore has been oxen, but it seems now that oxen stand this part of the trip the , 25 miles. JC l7th. Course still down the river crossed a considerable branch of the Humboldt, probably the Kanyon creek. The Humboldt here is very swampy. Had some of our horses mired general complaint of like i ture. The road last year followed down the bottoms, but this year water is so hi"h, that the bottoms are one complete swamp, and as a c< sequence we have to keep on the sage plains and cross ridges, making t road longer and worse to travel, and also to wade in the mud and cut o-rass for our stock. Passed another grave this evening of a man I an Indian; also some men digging a grave for one of their comrad had died. There is an abundance of red clover along this drive in ti low grounds. , 32 llles ' 18th. Continued down the river stopped and set the tire >r o wagon. This afternoon we entered a canon leading across a spur ol mountain, distance about 12 miles, and without water. Camped on a small creek, with but little grass. A horse was shot afhort distance fn us by the Indians. 1 9th. About five miles from our last night's camp we crossed a moun- tain brook of excellent water, then entered a canon which we followed for 26 miles, the first U without water. After turning the summit, ai descending about two miles we came to a spring of pure cold water by U road side. We camped this night on the Humboldt and swam our stock across the river. Our camp presents the appearance of a populous village. There are probably not far from five hundred men m it, besides many women and children. Found good grass .*>n the opposite side of the oo miles. "loth Our road to-day led mostly away from the river, crossing some ridges in the forenoon; in the afternoon left the river and crossed a level sacfe plain to the base of the mountains, where we found some poor wa and some grass. We followed along at the base of the hills until we reached within a few miles of the river again and camped on a bottom ered with heavy grass, and slough water. This is the best point to stop at to recruit on the Humboldt, as there are miles of good grass equal to the less cultivated meadows, and but little alkali, and by taking some pains, water may be had. It will be known by the emigrant by this descnptio The road leaves the river and runs directly to the hills, the river b ing to the left. The hills which you approach also bear to the left, until they approach the river, which takes a short turn around its base, it] road when it reaches the hills turns to the left and follows the base of them until it strikes the river, then passes around the rocky rugged point o mountain next to the river. After you pass this point you come into < tensive salt and alkali plains. You will find good looking grass m s( places, but it is so much impregnated with salt and alkali that your stock will run down on it all the time. The best place to stop here miles before you reach the point of the mountain, towards the river. . , Q . , The day has been hot and the dust oppressive. No person m the ates can have an idea of the dust in this country until he has been here. JOURNAL, JULY I860. man will settle to the ankles at every step, and his eyes and nostrils are lied with it throughout the day; and when the wind blows it is suffoca- ting. The country is volcanic, the mountains being composed entirely of lava and cinders. We found a new variety of currants here yellow va- riety, which are very good. Fuller picked a large quantity of them ** ~ - 30 miles, ove about eight miles to-< cd near the river in a clover" patch. "There arc a number of warm springs near the road by the point of the moun- 22d. Left the river this morning and traveled down the second bank of the river, a nearly level plain covered with alkali and wild sa