MATKA AND KOTIK Eale of tlje DAVID STARR JORDAN^ President of Leland Stanford Jr. University, and of the California Academy of Sciences; United States Commissioner in Charge of Fur Seal Investigations. SAN FRANCISCO THE WHITAK.ER & RAY COMPANY (INCORPORATED) 1903 COPYRIGHT, 1897, To MY ASSOCIATES OF THE BERING SEA COMMISSIONS FOR 1896, WITH PLEASANT MEMORIES OF THE TWIN MlST-IsLANDS AND THE ICY SEA. D'ARCY WENTWORTH THOMPSON, LEONHARD STEJNEGER, FREDERFC AUGUSTUS LUCAS, JAMES MELVILLE MACOUN, JEFFERSON FRANKLIN MOSER, GERALD EDWIN H. BARRETT-HAMILTON, CHARLES HASKINS TOWNSEND, GEORGE ARCHIBALD CLARK, JOSEPH MURRAY, ANDREW HALKETT. 1284620 PREFACE. In the illustration of this little book, I am indebted to Assistant Secretary Charles S. Hamlin, of the United States Treasury, and to Hon. John J. Brice, United States Fish Com- missioner, for the use of photographs taken, for the various Bering Sea Commissions, by Mr. Charles H. Townsend, Dr. Barton W. Evermann, Dr. Leonhard Stejneger, and Mr. N. B. Miller. For certain photographs taken by Mr. Harry Chichester, I am indebted to the courtesy of Mr. Joseph Stanley-Brown. The drawings show- ing the life of the beach-masters were made by Miss Chloe Frances Lesley, a student in Zoology in Leland Stanford Jr. University. By the courtesy of Prof. D'Arcy W. Thompson and Mr. James M. Macoun, I have used certain photo- graphs taken by the Commissioners of Great Britain and of Canada. To the author of " The Beaches of Lukannon," I gratefully make any acknowledgment the reader may deem proper. DAVID STARR JORDAN. Palo Alto, California, January 19, 1897. LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. PHOTOGRAPHS. PAGE Matka, ~. . '' j .''/" Frontiece (The Reef Rookery, photograph by Charles H. Townsend, 1892 ) " Blue with harebells and spring violets, to the black Tolstoi Head," 15 (Tolstoi Head, seen across the mouth of the Salt Lagoon, from Asascardano, Zapadni Head in the distance.) "Old Atagh had come back with the rest," .... 17 (Palata Rookery, Medni Island, 1892, B. W. Evermann.) "When he had roared, he sat down on the snow and groaned," 18 (Lukanin Rookery, C. H. Townsend.} "They slept on Zoltoi sands when they were bachelors," 19 (Zoltoi Sands, C. H. Townsend. ) "Pretending not to see Atagh any more," .... 20 (Zapadni of St. George. ) "They lounged about him in pretty attitudes," ... 21 (Zoltoi Bluffs, Harry Chichester.} "The silken-haired ones," 22 (Zoltoi Bluffs, Harry Chichester.) "'Oh, what a beach-master he is!'" 25 (Vostochni, N. B. Miller.} " It is always afternoon," 26 (Lukanin, Harry Chicliester.} 8 List of Ilhistrations. "One sleeps much on the Mist-Islands," 20 (Polovina, C. H. Towiisend.) t- Islands. When Matka was ready, she crowded Atagh out of the way, and lay down on the smoothest rock on Tolstoi, first pushing off all the little ones who had gathered there to play, and had gone to sleep before the game was finished. She thrust them rudely down the bank, while their mothers sleepily complained to Atagh. But Atagh knew that Matka was always right. So he groaned and shook his head, while she went to sleep on the rocks, with Kotik by her side. And when Kotik had taken all that she had brought for him from the Sign of the Four Kotik went over with a splash." The Voice of the Beach- Master. 4' Mountains, he lay down on his back under a rock, where no beach-master could step on him, and slept for a whole day, his flat, brown hands crossed on his breast, and his flappy little feet moving like a fan. And Atagh thought how pretty Matka was, and what a noble little fellow Kotik was coming to be. Then he leaned back, and shook his head three times, and groaned very Eichkao, the blue fox. loud. But that did not wake up Matka nor Kotik, for their sleep was all the sounder the more loudly he roared. " His voice is like the surf of the sea," Matka said, " and it does one good to hear it." Then Atagh laid his bushy head on the rock and stretched out his limbs just as far as they would reach. Soon he, too, was fast asleep. 42 Matka and Kotik. One day little Holostiak was playing with Kotik by the water's edge, and for mischief he pushed the little fellow down the bank into the sea. Kotik went over with a splash. He was very niuch scared. He held up his head as high as he could, and then, before he knew it, his nose went under. Then he came up snorting and gasping, and if he had not paddled for dear life with both his flappy, brown hands, he would have gone to the bottom. Then he would have drowned, and the waves would have washed him up on the beach for Eichkao, the blue fox, to carry home to his children, as he had carried off little Annak the day before. Then Holostiak showed him how to swim. He showed him that the way to keep his head up was to hold it low, so that only his nose was in the air, and to throw the water back with his hands. And then he learned the dolphin leap, when one swims partly under \ ' ""^5^@?^^fe^^^fe- ' 1* 58* ^ 'And then he learned the dolphin leap." Learning the Dolphin Leap. 43 water and partly in the air, and breathes only when he is jumping. When Kotik could do this, he was very happy. And as he splashed about, the water washed away all his black hairs, leav- ing him all over a soft, silvery gray "just like Atagh," he said in his little boyish pride. But Matka laughed, for she knew better. She knew that Kotik must shed his hair many times be- fore it would be a full velvet brown, whitened by silvery bristles. Besides, Atagh had mus- taches a foot long, and great teeth to bite with, instead of the little pin points around Kotik's mouth. And when Kotik could swim very well, and could go all alone from Tolstoi to Zoltoi, Matka was very proud of him. One day he swam around to the island where Sivutch, the gray sea-lion, lives, and he found the brown sea-lion babies asleep on the rocks off the shore. So he climbed up there with them, and began to play with them, just as he played with his fellows at Tolstoi. But the others said: "Go away, little boy. We can't play. We are big and all that, but we don't know anything. Let us alone." And they opened their mouths as wide 44 Matka and Kotik. as they could, and cried, and cried, whenever Kotik looked at them. And Kagua, the great, foolish, white-skinned mother, plunged into the water, and put out her head, and called piti- fully in a deep, anxious voice, so that huge old Sivutch himself was disturbed, and raised the great mountain of flesh he called his head, and roared sleepily. And his voice was like the deep, full "Old Sivutch himself was disturbed, and roared sleepily." bass note of a mighty organ. You might go around the world before you would hear the like again. But Sivutch meant nothing when he roared, for he was not even awake. Then Kotik saw that he was not wanted by the Sivutch family, so he swam away home and found old Atagh groaning and shaking his head. He said: "I have stood here on this rock all Atagh Goes off to Dine. 45 summer and have not eaten once, nor washed my face. You and Matka do not need me any more. I am going away. Good-by. Take care of yourselves. I will come back after dinner." So, without any more ceremony, Atagh shuffled down to the beach, not once looking back at Matka. Unga followed him, and old Imnak came, too, and they went off together in high spirits, rollicking away like the jolly old boys they were. For they were all great friends always when they were off duty. And they swam away together with great, dolphin leaps to the Storm King's gate, where the pollock-fish could always be found in plenty. For Atagh was easily suited when he had enough to eat, and he had no taste for the creamy squid and the clear-skinned dream-fishes which the silken- haired ones delight in. The pollock-fish. 46 Matka and Kotik. Then Polsi, who had sat alone on the rock- above for a whole month, waiting for Atagh to leave, shuffled down to his place, and pulled his mustaches, and fanned himself unconcernedly, as he tried to look very strong and braye. He shook his head, and groaned, and blew out his breath in a little cloud. But whenever he heard any one coming, he trembled all over, and more than once he was scared out of his wits. Then he left the silken-haired ones and threw himself into the sea because he thought he heard Atagh growl. But Polsi had good reason to be afraid, for one day Atagh came back all unexpectedly. He gave one great growl as he landed on the beach, and Unga, who was with him, roared and blew out his breath just as he had done .when they came for the first time. And when Polsi and the rest of them heard it, they put their heads low and shuffled off just as fast as they cor.Kl. Then Atagh and Unga, who were very fat, and strong, and wide-awake, came back to their places rollicking and roaring, and they called the silken-haired ones around them, and every- thing went on just as before. When Matka saw When Bachelors are Happy. 47 Atagh, she was very glad, but she pretended not to notice him. She was busy looking for Kotik, and did not stay very long in one place, and went from Atagh to Unga, and anywhere she pleased, just as Kotik did, And everybody began to do that, so that Atagh could not keep trace of his family. But he was rather glad to be free, and he went off one day to sleep on Tolstoi sands and get well ready for the Long Swim. Then Polsi, who had been watching all the time, came down and took his place. When the beach-masters are away comes the hap- piest time of* all the year for those who are bachelors. When Matka saw Polsi, she laughed. " So here the boys are coming to Tolstoi again. It is time for us to take the Long Swim, Kotik. See, the Mist-Islands are white and not green; the sun does not look at us any more, and soon the spray will all grow hard and slippery, and we canno.t climb upon the rocks." So Matka and Kotik swam off with dolphin leaps, and when they were well out at sea, they looked back and saw Polsi all alone on Atagh's rock. All of the silken-haired ones 48 Matka and Kotik. had left him, and all their silvery-gray children with them. There was no more life and bustle on the cold, bleak Tolstoi cliffs. For Atagh and Unga had already gone again. This time they went to the Fairweather grounds, where they would stay all winter, to come back early in the spring. For they dared not go too far, because they knew, that if they were not back early, someone else would take their places, and they might never .get back into society again. But Polsi ' stayed on Tolstoi till everyone else was gone, and was very happy, because he was now as good as Atagh. And little Holostiak, who was Kotik's older brother, crept down to Unga's place, and the Storm King brought the snow back again, and the two stood alone upon it, and felt very proud and manly. All at once Polsi said: " I feel very hungry. Why, I have n't eaten a thing for a month. Let us go and get some pollock-fish." "Just what I was thinking of," says Holostiak; " they can all see now that we are real beach-masters; now the thing for us to do is to have a good dinner." So they went down to the sea, and . I Taking the Long Swim. 49 washed their faces, and then swam right away to the Storm King's gate, where the pollock lives, and is soft and tender. When they had eaten all they could, and had a long sleep on the waves, they swam across to the Fairweather grounds, where they found Atagh and Unga. But they were afraid of them no more, and they went on farther, and farther, a thousand miles to the south. They dodged the Great Killer, Orca, who would have stained the sea with their blood. For he hates the sons of the beach-masters, and destroys them whenever he can; and often he lies in wait for them as they pass through the Storm King's gate. They passed Kotik and Matka, and all the rest of the silken-haired ones, till they came to the Gray-Islands in the Blue Seas. At the "Orca, the Great Killer." 50 Matka and Kotik. Gray-Islands the mist was all gone, the sun- shine was hot, and they could see the moon overhead at night. Then they knew that it was time to go back. So they swam around all the islands, not forgetting the last one with the tall, ragged, brown cliffs, and the caves where the brown sea-wolves yelp day and night, in their silly, puppy fashion. Then they went straight back to the north, taking always the coldest current, going through the gates of the Storm King, and past the black cape, called Cheerful, and by the line of the great floes they found their way to the Icy Seas, to the Mist-Islands. And on the flat columns of Tol- stoi Head, Polsi and Holostiak climbed first of all, and they found the snow bank there just, as it was the year before. When Unga and Atagh came back again and saw them, they blew out their breath in great white clouds. Holostiak ran away with all his might, but Polsi was not frightened at all. For he could roar and blow a cloud, and his teeth were long and sharp. So Atagh had the hardest fight of his., life before he could drive away Matka's brother. When the struggle was over, o If ViW ^ wi Good Friends after Battle. 5 1 and each one had a bloody, shoulder, they were all good friends again, and pretended not to see each other. But there were three of them on the snow bank instead of two, and Polsi was in the middle, and could groan and shake his head just as well as Atagh could. When the silken-haired ones came back, it was very hard for them to choose, for, though Polsi's mustaches were not quite so long, his hair was very black, and he shook his head proudly, and could -blow out his musky breath in great white clouds across the snow. And on Tolstoi again it was as though a great city had risen from the sea. Matka and Kotik, too, had gone far out into the broad, blue sea, careless of storm or sunshine, so long as they moved on, day by day, in their southward course. . They found many fishes on their way white-fish and rose-fish, but the yellow Atka-fish of the Icy Sea tasted better than any. "Now," says Matka at last, "let us go back home." And they swam back strongly and swiftly, for Kotik was almost as large as his mother now, and his feet and hands were bigger. Every day, as they came nearer and nearer to the Mist-Islands, they grew 52 Matka and Kotik. more and more merry. One morning, they saw a great cone-shaped mountain with smoke coming out of the top; " That is Shishaldin," said Matka; "there the Storm King has his kitchen; from that you will know your way home. Now you see the thick mists rushing through the snow mountains. That is Akutan and the gate of the Storm King, through which you go to the Icy Sea. Then you come to the great Moss-Island, where the white volcano steams and puffs. There the mountain is cleft in twain, and a white cascade leaps from the midst of it straight out into the sea. Now the gray mists draw their curtain before the scorching sun. Where you see the water falling, it is the Cape called Cheerful, and you know you are almost home. Two days more, and we will see the Mist- Islands, and old Atagh waiting for me at Tolstoi." " Waiting for you, Matka," said Kotik; "can- not I go to Tolstoi, too? " " No, you foolish boy," says Matka, "you must not come to Tolstoi. Atagh would be very angry, and all the silken-haired ones would bite you. You must go off with Holostiak, and Kamnin, and The Duties of Bachelors. 53 all the rest of them, to the sands of Ungeskelligh. There you may swim in the water every day, and you may sleep on the sands when it is warm, and on the grass when it is wet. And you may swim to Lukanin when the surf is high, and to Zoltoi when the wind is in the east; and you may swim and eat, and play and sleep, as you will. But you must never come to me. And when you swim past Tolstoi, you may call to me, but I shall never answer; and Atagh will groan and shake his head because you are such a foolish boy. And when the chief, Apollon, comes to drive you up, you must go right along and make no fuss, for it is the way on the Mist-Islands." And Kotik was sad, for he wanted to stay with Matka. He loved the black rocks of Tol- stoi, and he didn't want to be driven up. But then a great wave swept over the reef, and the silken-haired ones came up rustling and bustling to Tolstoi, and climbed over the rocks to where Atagh, and Polsi, and Unga were waiting, each with his nose in the air, and pretending not to see them. "Good-by," said Matka, and Atagh roared so loudly that Kotik was terribly 54 J/<7//'<7 ami Kotik. frightened, and swam away so hastily that ho did not stop till he reached the long, curving stretch of sands beyond Tolstoi they called Ungeskelligh, which means the place for bachelors. Here he found Holostiak, and his mustaches were growing, arid he could already blow a little cloud. And there were many more of the bachelors, little and big, and they had a joyous time together. Sometimes they would pretend to fight, to groan, and to blow out their breath. But this was only play, for they never hurt each other. Then they would bound down the sands into the sea, and swim around to Zoltoi and back again with long, dolphin leaps. And they liked above all to creep under the crest of a breaking wave, so that they The Drive from Tolstoi. 55 could look out on either side as it fell over them. And when he went around Tolstoi Head, Kotik would call out to Matka, and Atagh would shake his head at him and groan. But Matka was busy with little Minda, and she never answered back. One night they were all asleep on the Unge- skelligh sands when they heard some one moving about in the mist. Holostiak awoke, sniffed, and raised his head. " That is Apollon," he said. " There is going to be a drive." Then he ran down to the sea and plunged in, and never stopped till he came to Tolstoi, so fright- ened was he. Here he climbed up the rocks and rushed right in among the silken-haired ones, scarcely knowing what he was doing. " The drive, the drive," he screamed. " What do you want here?" growled Polsi; and he and Unga seized Holostiak by the shoulders and threw him off from the rocks into the sea in half the time it takes to tell it. And Matka looked up sleepily and said: "Dear, dear, how foolish these boys' are! I thought Holostiak had been killed in a drive by this time. I hope Kotik will never be so silly. I am glad that Minda is not a boy." 5 6 Matka and Kotik. So the drive went on, and the bachelors were all awakened from their sleep, and men stood between them and the water, so that they had to climb up the sands and over the hill. It was hard work to go up hill in the sands, and they stepped on each other's feet, and tumbled about in confusion. But it was good fun for Kotik. Every minute something new would happen. Some of them would stop and shake their heads, snorting and groaning. Then Kotik would laugh at them and pretend to bite them in the throat or ribs. When they came up from the sand over the rocks, they went along much more easily. And it was pleasant on the wet grass where the yellow poppies grow, and the great, blue violets. But Kotik did not care for these; he liked the cool dew, and it was such a joke to be driven along in a crowd. But when they came to go down hill, they would slip, and step on each other's feet, and roll heels over head in funny con- fusion. When they came to a little pond, they all plunged into it and made a great splashing. The drive came to its end at the old killing ground, Asascardano, beside the salt lagoon, where the purple monk's-hood waves its poisoned IV hy the Rye- Grass is Tall 57 flowers, and the rye-grass is tall, because the bones lie thick about its roots. There were many others there from Lukanin and Zoltoi, and they all lay down in the grass, panting and pretending to bite each other. Then Kotik saw a little "pod" of thirty, that the chief had driven up apart from the rest, and the men closed in about them in a moment, and only the biggest and smallest ones were left; for all those who were three years old, and whose skins had no scars, lay dead on the grass. It is not pleasant to tell the story of Asascardano. If killing must be done, one does not like to hear about it. So, if my lady wishes to know where her rich fur cloak comes from, she must ask some one else. Kotik did not mind it much till his " pod " from Tolstoi was driven up. But when he saw the blows falling on his companions' heads, he was furious with wrath, and the big tears ran all over his face. He rushed at Apollon and struck at him with all his might, just as he had seen Atagh strike at old Unga. But the chief kept him off with his club, and Kotik could not reach him anywhere. 58 Matka and Koiik. When the killing was over, and those who were left were creeping disconsolately through the grass on their way down to the salt lagoon, Kotik would not go. He groaned, and shook his head, and showed all his white teeth. " He 's a fine fellow; hear him growl," said the chief. " When he grows up, then look out." But the chief went away and left him. They drove up another pod a little way off, and Kotik was left in the grass all alone with his wrath. When he found that he could not get at the chief, Kotik shuffled off to the lagoon and swam back as straight as he could to Un- geskelligh sands. And he forgot to call to Matka as he went around Tolstoi Head, for his little heart was full of anger. I should like, if I could, to tell ho\v Kotik resolved that there shouid be no more drives, and how he led all the silken-haired ones and all the beach-masters in a great revolt, and swam away to the twin Storm-Islands in the thicker mist, where the green foam curls about the hollowed-out cliffs of Zapalata, and the black reefs close the way to all intruders. But The Twin Storm- Islands. 59 this is a true story, and I can tell only the truth. He did nothing of the kind. When he came to Ungeskelligh, Kotik found the strand so quiet and the sand so cool, the surf-beat so soothing and the mist so pleasant, that he lay down and went to sleep. For it is the way of the Mist-Islands, that when one is unhappy he sleeps well, and when he awakes all is forgotten. Kotik awoke, full of the joy of the great sands and the sea, and his anger had all faded away. Ten days later, when Apollon came around again, Kotik followed in the drive, doing just what was expected of him from start to finish. And so did Holostiak, for he had less fear of the drive than of Atagh's terrible groan and Polsi's sharp teeth. " For there have always been drives," every one said, " and drives there will always be." And it is well for them that it is so, else the whole Mist-Islands would be covered with struggling beach-masters, and the silken -haired ones would have no peace of mind or body, and their little ones would all be trampled under foot. Even now, when the beach-masters fight on Tolstoi Sands, many little ones are killed, 6o Matka and Kotik. because there are no rocks to hide under, and they cannot get out of the way. But Kotik did not forget Matka, and one day he went over to Tolstoi Head and climbed right up among the silken-haired ones, taking always good care to be on the other side of the rocks from Atagh. And Matka looked at him sleepily and said, "You foolish boy." But she did not drive him away. Atagh looked over at him and growled. But he knew it was only Kotik. Besides, Atagh was very sleepy. So he lay down and pretended not to see him. After a while, Matka said, "Now, be a good boy; go away, and when the Great Ice comes down from the north we will all swim off together." So Kotik went down to the shore. Unga and Polsi growled at him all the way down, but no one did more than growl. On the shore he found little Minda, and he spent the whole afternoon teaching her to swim. Then he went around to Lukanin, for he liked to lie on the level rocks that face the long curve of the beach. The soft sand made his short legs tired, so when he wished to rest he climbed upon the rocks. But to the rocks of Tolstoi he Playing Beach-Master. 61 would not go again, for he would not be likely to find Atagh another time in such gentle mood. Holostiak and Kotik were good friends, and went about together a good deal, climbing the rocks or swimming about the Mist-Islands in dolphin leaps, looking like spectres in the great rollers. But one day Holostiak stepped on Kotik's foot. He did it on purpose, just to see the little fellow sprawl on the sand. Then Kotik growled and blew out his breath, and Holostiak groaned and held his head low, striking Kotik a quick blow on the shoulder. Then Kotik raised his head, looking the other way, and pre- tended not to notice it. So they were good friends again, and Kotik was very proud of the scar, for it showed that he was big enough to fight, even if Apollon had turned him off four times from the drive. When Unga and Atagh left Tolstoi again and went off to sleep on the rocks, Holostiak and Kotik climbed to the place where they had been, and pretended to groan over the responsibilities of life, to blow out their breath, and to push about the silken-haired ones, just 62 Matka and Kotik. as they had seen the beach-masters do. But the silken-haired ones only laughed at them, and said to their children, " It is time for us to be gone, for the boys are playing beach-master." But Matka waited to the last for Kotik, just as she had promised. Then came another year, and Kotik had to go away again to Ungeskelligh with the others. But Apollon turned him back from every drive, because he was still too small. Holostiak would not stay on the sands any longer with Kotik. He climbed up over the rocks at Tol- stoi, and sat there all summer long, looking down at Atagh and Polsi, just as Polsi had done the years before. The next year Kotik was a splendid fellow, with skin as soft as Matka's, and his mustaches were plainly to be seen. He went into the drive again, and he thought himself the best of them, for he was now three years old. But Apollon turned him back just the same, because he had a scar on his shoulder, and would only make a second-grade skin at the best, for all he was so brave. And Kotik felt ashamed of his scar and himself. Then, whenever the time came ' Watching from the Old Fox- Walk. 63 or the drive, and he heard the chief coming, he plunged right into the sea. So, when the others were driven, he was always out of reach, on the sands, or the cliffs, or the waves, so that he never went to Asascardano any more. And the fourth year, and the fifth, he left the sands and watched all summer long on the rocks over- looking Tolstoi. Sometimes he stood on the cliffs, above his mother, like a sentinel, nose in the air. By his side, day and night, was old Epatka, the sea-parrot, who sits on one egg and never speaks, and who has no friends among the other birds. His bill is made of red sealing wax, and he covers his face with a white mask, so that no one knows what he is really like. He is a fantastic creature, and his tem- per is as bad as his looks, and he has many quarrels with the little blue fox, for the bones of his fathers lie bleaching by Eichkao's den. 1 Old Epatka, the sea-parrot." 64 Matka and Kotik. But Kotik liked him, and Epatka did not tear Kotik, and they spent many days together on the rocks beside the old fox-walk. Kotik's face was always turned toward Matka and Atagh. Sometimes he would climb up from below and stretch himself, like a great lizard, along the boulders over which the surf was breaking. But when Atagh would roar and blow out his breath, he would run away as fast as he could, plumping into the water with a great splash, and looking back at Matka by the sea. And then at last came the sad summer, when the ships of the Pirate Kings found their way into the Icy Sea. It was then that we picked up Matka, with a spearhead in her throat, dead on the shining sands they call Zoltoi, the golden. And Lakutha, her little one, who had been so . o 8 S c 8 3 . O Dead on the Shining Sands. 65 plump and joyous, grew faint and thin, until she died at last. Atagh was sore at heart, though he pretended not to notice it. But he groaned and shook his head with all his might when the blue thief, Eichkao, tried to steal away her little body, and great white Gavarushka tried to take away her eyes as playthings for his children. * And "Gavarushka tried to take her eyes." he slept a great deal on the rocks, letting the silken -haired ones come and go as they would, not caring where they were, or who might seize them. He went away from Tolstoi very early in the fall, long before the ground was white, and Kotik, who had been watching all the time from the rocks above, crept down and took his place. Atagh swam out slowly around Tolstoi Head and across to the Great Reef. Then he turned to the north, to the soft resting' place on Zoltoi 66 Matka and Kotik. Sands, where he had often slept in the after- noons when he was a bachelor. Then he crept slowly out of the water, his broad feet sinking deep in the shining sands. Then he shook himself, and looked backward toward Tolstoi, and groaned again over all the cares of life, and the tears made wet strips across his cheeks. Then he shuffled back over Zoltc i sands to the Great Dunes, where the sands lie in smooth banks between tufts of tall rye-grass. Here Atagh lay down and went to sleep. And when Kotik came back in the spring and climbed over the broken ice-floes to take his place at Tolstoi, Atagh was sleeping yet. And now the dreary days have come to the twin Mist-Islands. The ships of the Pirate Kings swarm in islands of the have found the /'\\ \ way. The great has ceased to roar, cannot keep the Icy Sea. To the v Four Mountains they Smoke-Island because it The decks of the schooners, smeared with their milk and their blood." T/ie Silken- Haired that Never Come. 67 them back. The blood of the silken-haired ones, thousand by thousand, stains the waves as they rise and fall. The decks of the schooners are smeared with their milk and their blood, while their little o nes are left on the rocks the islands of the Four Mountains they have found their way to wail and starve. The cries of the little ones go up day and night from all the deserted homes, from Tolstoi and Zoltoi, from Lukanin and Vostochni, and from the sister island on Staraya Artil. Meanwhile, Kotik and Unga, Polsi and Holostia-k, stand in their places, roaring and groaning, waiting for the ' /.^ f , silken-haired ones that never come. Their call comes 10 me across the ^SsSSSf^" " The dreary days have come." 68 Matka and Kotik. green waves as I write. I turn my eyes away from Tolstoi Head and put aside my pen. It is growing very chill. The mist is rising from the Salt Lagoon, and there is no brightness on the Zoltoi sands. Written on St. Paul, The Pribilof Islands, Bering Sea, July 28, 1896. I CALENDAR OF THE MIST-ISLANDS. (Dates approximate and variable.) Matka turns back from the Farallones, January i. Holostiak turns back from Cape Flattery, February i. Atagh leaves the Fairweather grounds, March 20. Atagh passes Cape Cheerful, April 20. Atagh reaches Tolstoi, May i. The beach-masters follow, May 15. Arrival of Polsi, May 10. Arrival of Holostiak, July i. Arrival of Matka, June 15. Arrival of silken-haired ones, June 10 to July 20. Height of responsibilities of life, July 10 to July 20. Birth of Kotik, June 20. Birth cf majority of young, July 5. Trampling of young in battle, June 20 to July 20. The drives, July i to July 25. Minda returns (yearling), August i. Kotik learns to swim, August i. Atagh grows hungry, sleepy, and gentle, August 5. Atagh goes away to feed, August 10. Polsi takes his place, August 10. Atagh returns fat and lively, September 15. The pirate ships enter the Icy Sea, August i. Lakutha starves to death on the rocks, August 15. The Storm King drives the pirates from the Icy Sea, Sep- tember 15. Kotik is weaned, November 10. The long swim begins, November 15. APPENDIX TO MATKA AND KOTK. j* THE MIST ISLANDS AND THEIR NEIGHBORS. St. Paul Island, the scene of the Story of Matka and Kotik, is one of a group of five rocky islands lying in the southeastern portion of Bering Sea, in Lat. 57 N. and Long. 170 W. This island and its companion, St. George, each about a township in area, are the only important ones in the group. The islands were first dis- covered by the Russian navigator Gerassim Pribilof in 1786 and bear his name today. In summer they are all but constantly enveloped in fog occasioned by the meeting of the warm Japan current with the icy current from the Arctic. Hence they are appropriately called the "Mist Islands." They are volcanic in origin, treeless and without possibilities of cultivation. Yet their plains are covered with wild flowers (p. 15) and their valleys with luxuriant grasses. In winter the skies are clear and the weather coid. Snow falls and late in the winter the drift ice from the Arctic packs (p. 50) in for a time about them. There are no harbors or safe anchorage against the storms of winter and the islands are therefore absolutely cut off from one another and from the rest of the world during the greater part of the year. (69) ;o Appendix. Cape Newenham on the mainland of Alaska is the nearest land to the eastward, three hundred miles away. To the south, two hundred miles distant, is Unalaska Island, in the Aleutian archipelago. This island contains the rugged old mountain Makushin (p. 53). It con- tains also the harbor ol Unalaska, now familiar as a way- station for vessels bound for St. Michaels and the Yukon. The twin passes of Akutan and Unalaga separate Una- laska Island from Akutan Island, on which is the volcano (p. 52) of the same name. The next island to the east- ward is the "Moss Island," Unimak, on which is the beautiful snow-clad cone of Shishaldin, (p. 52) rising nearly ten thousand feet in height. This is "where the Storm King has his kitchen." There are probably branch kitchens at Akutan and Makushin, for all three volcanos ' 'steam and puff. ' ' Near Unalaska Island, and between it and the Pribilof Islands are the "Twin Smoke Islands," Old and New Bogoslof. The first of these (p. 36) rose a red hot mountain peak trom the sea in 1795. Beside it for a long time stood a single shaft of stone known as Sail Rock. This disappeared in 1883 and a second burning mountain (p. 64) rose from the sea to the accompaniment of sub- terranean thunders and earthquake shocks. This second island has now too ceased to ' 'sputter day and night, though it is still warm. The "Twin Storm Islands" (p. 58) lie at the other side of Bering Sea, near the coast of Kamchatka. These are the islands of Bering and Medni, the Komamltn^ki. or islands of the Commander, so named in honor of their discoverer, Vitus Bering. While returning from his Appendix. 7 1 momentous voyage of 1741, in which he found the main- land of the American continent in the vicinity of Mt. St. Elias, his vessel was wrecked on the island which bears his name, and there Bering and most of his company died. The survivors escaped the following spring, taking with them knowledge of the immense herds of fur-bear- ing animals which made their homes on the new islands. These islands are intimately connected in history with the Pribilof Islands because it was the search for new island homes and new herds of ' 'sea bears' ' or fur seals that led forty-five years later to Pribilof 's discovery. THE FUR SEALS AND THEIR NEIGHBORS. The fur seals of the southern hemisphere are widely scattered among the islands of the South Seas. Those of the north are confined to the islands of the North Pacific Ocean, and chiefly to the Pribilof and Commander groups, with certain islands in the Kuril chain to the north of Japan. We are indebted to Georg Wilhelm Steller, a German naturalist connected with Bering's expedition of 1741, for our first knowledge of the fur seals of Bering Sea. The hair seal, Isogh, and Sivutch, the sea lion, share with the fur seals the shores of St. Paul and all three live in neighborly relations. The hair seal (p. 25) is the true seal. The fur seals are more properly what their dis- coverer called them, "sea bears." The sea lion (p. 44) of the Pribilofs is the same animal that makes its home on Ano Nuevo Island and the Farallones and has made the Seal Rocks of San Francisco famous. He was one of the ' 'four beasts of the sea' ' which Steller studied in the Commander Islands in 1741. 72 Appendix. The sea otter (p. 37) Chignotto or Bobrik, a timid creature whose fur is now of exceeding great value, once lived in the kelp beds about the Pribilof Islands, particu- larly Otter Island, which has its name from this fact. The Russians called it ' 'Bobrik." But Bobrik has aband- onded these shores as well as most other haunts accessible to man, and his race is well nigh extinct. Amogada, (p. 37) the Pacific Walrus, was once well known to the shores of St. Paul, and great areas on Morjovi beach are still covered with his bones. Until within very recent years a herd of three hundred or more of these beasts made Walrus Island, just off the shore of St. Paul, a summer resting place ; but the sportsman' s rifle has driven them back to their fastnesses in the Arctic. The picture of Amogada is taken from a mounted specimen, in the National Museum at Washington, captured on Walrus Island. Eichkao, (p. 41) the blue fox, is and always has been an interesting inhabitant of the Pribilof Islands. Steller found him on the Commander Islands also, and Bering's men had difficulty in keeping their dead and dying com- rades from his teeth. His "fox walks" today on St. Paul radiate in all directions, from his dens in the castle-like rock piles, to the cliffs where Epatka, the sea parrot (p. 63) and his associates the guilemots and chutchkis, (p. 17) have their nests. His long silken fur is scarcely less valu- able than that of the fur seal itself. There were no native people on the Pribilof Islands when found. This is a characteristic of islands occu- pied by the fur seals as breeding homes. The Russians, however, early in the present century brought over Appendix. 73 Aleuts from Attu and Unalaska islands to work the fur seal industry and the descendants of these now look upon the islands as their home. They live in two very comfort- able villages, the one on St. Paul numbering about two hundred souls, that on St. George, about half as many. Each village has its ' 'company' ' store, its church of the Greek-Russian faith and its English school. Agents of the Government and agents of the Company leasing the fur seal industry, care for the welfare of the Aleuts, for the seals and the various interests involved. THE NATURAL HISTORY OF THE FUR SEALS. The animals spend only the summer on the islands. The adult males land early in May (pp. 17 and 49) and are followed in June and July by the females. Each 1 'beachmaster" (p. 18), in accordance with the polygamous habit of the animals gets about him as many females as he can control. These family groups are called "harems" (p. 22). A group of harems, defined usually by the con- figuration of the coast, is known as a "rookery" (p.5i). There are about fifteen of these rookeries covering about eight miles of shore line. The young are born in June and July. By the first of August the rigid discipline of the harem system relaxes. The beachmasters, which have fasted since their arrival, go away to feed and during the rest of the summer the mothers come and go between the fishing banks far out in Bering Sea and their young on shore. The young learn to swim (p. 35) at the age of six weeks and afterwards spend most of their time in the water. In November, when the severe storms of winter begin, mothers and young leave the 74 Appendix. islands. The latter are soon left to their own resources and the former make a rapid and direct journey down through the Pacific Ocean to the latitude of Southern California, where they are found in and about Santa Barbara Channel early in December. The females jour- ney slowly back along the coasts of California, Oregon, and Washington gradually picking up the other classes of animals which do not go so far south, past Vancou- ver Island, across the Gulf of Alaska, by Kadiak and the Shumagins and through the Aleutian passes to their island homes in Bering Sea, where they arrive in June. The adult males spend the winter in the Gulf of Alaska, on the Fairweather grounds, and return earlier to the islands. THE FUR SEAL INDUSTRY. Owing to the polygamous habit of the fur seals the greater part of the males born are superfluous. The principle of killing therefore, as worked out by the Russians and followed by our Government in its man- agement of the fur seal industry, is to confining the killing to the young males of three years of age. These younger males herd by themselves (p. 54) at a distance from the breeding grounds. The Aleuts surround them while asleep at night and drive them up (p. 55) in great droves to " Asascardano " (p. 57), to be killed and skinned. The pelts, cured in salt, are shipped to San Francisco and thence to London to be dressed and dyed. From London they are distributed to furriers the world over to bemade into garments. The Russian government managed its fur seal industry Appendix. 75 through a corporation to which exclusive privileges were granted. When the fur seal islands, together with the territory of Alaska, came in 1867 into the control of the United States by treaty with Russia, our Government at once leased the industry to a commercial company, re- serving to itself a royalty or tax on each skin taken. For twenty years one hundred thousand skins were taken annually and the tax, together with import duties on dressed skins brought back for consumption in the United States, yielded a revenue to our Government of about thirteen and one-half millions of dollars. The cost o the entire territory of Alaska was only seven million two hundred thousand dollars. About the year 1889 the fur seal herd was found to be decreasing. In 1890 it was little more than one-half its normal size and the quota of skins fell to twenty thou- sand. Since that time the herd has steadily declined. There was in 1880 doubtless two million and a half of animals of all classes. Today there are probably not more than three hundred and fifty thousand. PELAGIC SEALING. The decline of the herd was due to the development of a rival sealing industry at sea (pp. 66 and 67). This had been carried on from the earliest times by the Indians of Cape Flattery and Vancouver Island. These Indians went out in their open canoes a day's journey and hunted with the spear stragglers from the herd as it passed north- ward on the spring migration. White man's ingenuity soon found a way to increase this irregular supply of seal- skins. Schooners (p. 66) were employed to carry the In- 76 Appendix. clians and their canoes out to the main body of the herd, to move with them day by day and to provide a refuge for them at night and in times of storm. The plan was marvel- lously successful. From two or three vessels in 1879 the fleet of the ' ' Pirate Kings ' ' (p. 67) grew to a maximum of 122, in 1892 each vessel carrying from five to twenty canoes and hunting crews. The field of its operations gradually extended over the whole migration route of the animals. The catch of skins rose from a few thousand a year to a maximum of one hundred and forty thousand. The effect of land killing had been to keep the males at a low point. The killing at sea, necessarily indiscriminate, fell most heavily upon the females. The investigations of the Commission of 1896 proved that fully three-fourths of the animals taken at sea were of this class. With the mother seal, killed in the spring off the Northwest Coast, her unborn offspring died; in Bering Sea her death involved that of her dependent offspring on the rookeries by starvation. By actual count in the autumn of 1896 at least sixteen thousand young seals were found to have suffered the fate of little "Lakutha" (p. 64). It was to emphasize these facts that the story of Matka and Kotik was written. THE FUR SEAL QUESTION. The effect of pelagic sealing was foreseen from the first though not fully understood. While it was confined to the open waters of the Pacific Ocean no action seemed possible. But when the pelagic fleet entered Bering Sea, in 1886, and attacked the herd on its summer feeding grounds, the United States sent revenue cutters to warn Appendix. 77 the schooners out of Bering Sea and to seize and confiscate those persisting in taking seals. This action was based upon the right claimed by Russia in 1821 to seize and confiscate vessels caught killing seals in the waters of Bering Sea. Among the vessels seized by United States officers in 1887 (p. 66) were Canadian vessels. A diplomatic discussion with Great Britain followed which finally resulted in a Treaty of Arbitration, agreed upon in February, 1892, by which the questions of jurisdiction in Bering 1 Sea, claimed by the United States in the inter- ests of her fur seal herd, were left to a court of arbitration for decision. This Arbitration Tribunal met in Paris in the spring of 1893, reaching its decision in August of that year. The decision was adverse to the contention of the United States and, in accordance with the stipulations of the treaty covering this event, the Tribunal formulated a set of regulations governing pelagic sealing by which the two governments might jointly accomplish ' ' the protection and preservation" of the fur seal herd when on the high seas. These regulations followed the analogy of our common game laws. A close season in May, June, and July was established during which the mother seal might bring forth her young unmolested. This was supplemented by a protected zone of sixty miles radius about the islands in which she might feed in safety when pelagic sealing was resumed in August and September. These regulations failed utterly of their purpose be- cause the mother seals feed not within the protected area but far beyond it. Hence they were slaughtered 7 8 Appendix, without mercy in August and September and their help- less young died of starvation on the rookeries. The result was most disastrous and the season of 1894, the first un- der the regulations, saw the largest catch in the history of pelagic sealing and was consequently the most des- tructive to the herd. The failure of the regulations was at once apparent and our Government made efforts to secure their imme- diate reconsideration. To this Great Britain, standing for the interests of the pelagic sealers, would not consent, at least till the expiration of the five-year trial period. In preparation for such reconsideration the two nations agreed in 1896 to submit the whole question of seal life to a new investigation. The investigations for the United States were under the direction of President Jordan of Stanford University, with associates from the Scientific Bureaus at Washington. Professor Thompson of Dun- dee, Scotland, with a number of associates, represented Great Britain. At the close of the investigations in November, 1897, the two commissions, known as the Conference of Fur Seal Experts, came together in Washington and after a discussion of the results of their labors reached a substan- tial agreement as to the facts in the case. These facts had prior to this time been, for the most part, in dispute. By the joint agreement pelagic sealing was designated as the cause of the decline in the herd, and it was further shown that pelagic sealing in any form was incompatible with the protection and preservation of the herd. Upon the basis of this agreement the fur seal question passed into the hands of the Joint High Commission Appendix. 79 which was called together at Quebec in September, 1898, to consider and act upon a number of questions, among them the fur seal question, at issue between the United States and Canada. There it has rested without result since. The tragedy of the "Mist Islands" was reenacted during the summers of 1898 and 1899 and for aught we can now see, it will be repeated in 1900. GEORGE ARCHIBALD CLARK. Secretary to Bering Sea Fur Seal Commission of 1896-97. Stanford University, March 31, 1900. K UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY Los Aneles IlllflllUlI* L 005 489 256 7 "3 y&y % IITYD-J