:,„eE-fitREET ; AND TO BE HAD OF ALL BOOKSELLBRSe 1821. W. Uwh, Primer. 21, F>Bch«laM«| ^L«lldo1l. ADVERTISEMENT. After having visited France and Italy, I was de- sirous of speculating on the social progress of man in the cold regions of the North ; for what more in- teresting field of reflection can present itself, than is afforded by the instructive travels of a philosopher ? '^ The proper study of mankind, is man/* He is, every where, in a state of mutation ; and, from the various political progressions or declensions which perpetually happen, arise a vast portion of useful observation. The present enthralled condition of the Southern part of Europe, and its ruined state of trade, evince, at once, the necessity of frequently comparing nations^ apparently of principles as opposite as their climates, and exhibit a moral portraiture as premoni- tory as their original features in remote and barbarous times were gloomy. IV advertisemen^t. These results arc to be attributed to the enslaving objects of the Congress at Vienna ; results, in which the fall of even the imperial, immortal eagle, alone offers a world of reflection ! Setting out on my intended tour from Bonn, such were my preliminary medita- tions. I shall not detain the reader by amplifying or vindicating them, but submit my little portfolio to his own ideas ! 'T' '^V .»f A JOURNAL KEPT THROC6H THE NORTH OF GERMANY, &c. &c. BONN. xSoNN, once the seat of the archbishops and electors of Cologne, is a city situated on the Rhine, and which deserves attention, from its being peculiarly adapted, by its position and by its people, for becoming the chief school of the Rhe- nish provinces. Affording the charms of nature to the eye of fancy, other qualities, associated with our ideas of mind, dis- play themselves to our view, in the pleasing prospect which it exhibits of the Muses dwelling- there, arrayed in their most festive garments. Living is cheap, and the inhabitants are a very well-disposed people. Both the exterior and interior of Bonn are replete with interesting objects, and it requires not the pen of an enthusiast to describe its capabilities for form- ing, in every respect, a most important establishment for youth to cultivate the sciences in. In a moral sense, the place ex- hibits great purity of character, a mode of life at once pleas- ing and profitable, that is to say, regular politeness of beha- viour and unassuming courtesy ; and over the whole of these recommendations, a certain elevation of mind prevails, with high notions of honour. "Void of sense, thankless and sidlen must be the observer, that could not be cheered with the soft or sublime picture, the rich, ever shifting varieties on the face of surrounding nature, presented in different points of view, A clear sky, various walks or rides, land and water which blend commanding scenery with what is beautiful, an endless diversity of colouring in the mountains, such as not only to afford amusement, but to supply trains of reflection, or even kindle the influence of the poetic passion. Such are the leading features of this city and its prospects, which attrac* Voyages antl Travels, JSTo. I. Vol, V, B 10 Tour through the J^orth of Germany, ^c. notice and examinatipn, as well calculated by nature, &c. for a seat of learning and place of theology. COLOGNF. Cologne, formerly termed the holy city, reckoned nearly 50,000 inhabitants, and among them 11,000 buried virgins! There must have been a great scarcity of young women, when such a number left the world, to enlist under the banners of St. Ursula ! Cologne being now a garrison -town, and the seat of government, will not again experience, in that way, the loss of so many of her fair maidens, of whom indeed that place may yet be justly proud. The cathedral is the triumph of gothic architecture, in the thirteenth century. After-ages, as if they felt asharaed, sur- rounded this master-piece of building with barracks, to ob- scure its beauty, by a monument of a different kind ; but the enterprize was unattainable. This vast work of art, confident of superiority, ascends above the other crippled figures; and the spectator of sensibility will turn away from the trash in dis- gust. Much has been said and written about perfecting the works of the cathedral, but what presumptuous mortal would put his hand to a poem, begun by a Lycophron or a Persius? It must then, for ever, remain in its present incomplete state. DUSSELDORF. Dusseldorf is a busy, cheerful place, and the cast of its landscapes will raise pleasing sensations. The part called the Charles-stadt exhibits large broad streets, without much magnificence, but consisting* of good houses, that belong to substantial citizens ; and tnere is an English garden, that charms, that enchants with its beauty ; it might be taken for the park of a princely villa. In other respects, it does not realise that appearance of striking grandeur which public walks in cities seem to imply. Dusseldorf was once the seat of government for the Duchy of Juliers and Berg, the chief city of the province, and (he residence of the duke. Five garrison-regiments, and the assemblages of the states, were there ; all this importance has now disappeared. Nothing remains to its inhabitants but their recollection of times past, and the interesting topics they teemed with. MUNSTER. To Munster, the road leads through heaths and sand-wastes ; the people are robust, but with little distinction of character, and cultivation is generally neglected. Munster was the chi«f city of ancient Saxony, which is now compressed into a Bremvn, — Hamburg. 11 moderate compass. The Anabaptists, in 1531, excited great tumults in this place; but at last their king, and certain nigh officers about his court, were some of them pinched to death with red-hot tongs; and others hanged, in three iron-hoops, on St. Lambert's steeple. A circumstantial narrative of the whole plot, and its catastrophe, may be read, in a book entitled, ^* History of the Original Acts of the Munster Anabaptists." The city is well-built, very quiet, and appears unlikely to ex- perience a revival of such infatuations. The neighbouring districts and country, in general, have nothing attractive ; to a traveller from the Rhine, it seems as if he were advancing into Siberia. This unfavourable condition of things reaches as far as Hamburg, proceeding by the way of Osnaburg. Fine horses are seen in these parts, and, in the population of the lower orders, we find stout vigorous men, and blooming maidens, generally of the old German race, with blue eyes and light hair. I went thither in the stage-coach, but it would be a prefer- able plan to travel on foot, as it would be going quicker, and less painfully. The vehiele is one of the most horrid that can be imagined, and so many mendicants were craving money to drink my health, that there seemed to be little economy in continuing my journey in such a mode. BREMEN. At Bremen, I took leave of that travelling ale-house, but only to drawl on still more tediously, by the extra-post. The fine high-road which Napoleon caused to be made through all this poor district, but which was not completed, and will now remain for a century as it is, presents a great monument to his memory. Posterity will have reason to remember him for it, when the vexations he occasioned to these countries are forgotten ; as they will likewise the name even of Davoust, for the bridges he raised over the swamps of the Elbe, in the line from Harburg to Hamburg. In peaceable times, it should be the work of government to prosecute undertakings of public utility, without however bearing too heavily on individuals for that purpose. HAMBURG. Hamburg is distinguished above all other German cities, by its character of trade. It exceeds Paris for expensiveness of living, and indeed the throng is greater. In the time of the revolutionary wars, Hamburg engrossed the whole of the trade with England ; its merchants there- B2 12 Journal through the North of Germany , ^c, fore must now feel a considerable reduction in tfieir per centag-e. April 8th, 1817, the first steam-boat arrived at Hamburg from Berlin, in five-and-thirty hours ; this is a circumstance well worthy of attention. Passengers go by it for four gold Frederics; to me, however, travelling by water has always been a tedious affair; it formed one of those difficulties which Plato regretted, when he had such considerable voyages to undertake. In America, steam-boats have been in use for some years, as is now well understood. I shall here give it as my opinion, that every great city ought to have travellers abroad in other countries, to explore and transmit, occasionally, what they may discover of the useful and interesting. The Hamburg Correspondent, No. 59, published the follow- ing account, as sent from London, dating it April 5th, 1817: — " Yesterday morning, the steam-boat from Norwich to Yar- mouth, with twenty passengers on-board, exploded. The bursting of the boiler was the occasion of this fatal misfortune. The vessel was entirely shattered to pieces." It is undoubtedly the king's wish that his public agents abroad should be as serviceable as possible to his subjects, in ministering to their concerns. Our Prussian envoy referred me for my passport to another end of the town, without sufl^ering me to say a word, and, on going thither, the secretary was i)ot to be found, so that f was obliged to wait in suspence, till the next day, which completed my ill-luck. The envoys of the Kings of Denmark and Sweden re- ceived me with the most marked attention. Sieveral other Prussians were then at Hamburg, who complained of the dis- obliging behaviour of their envoy, who, nevertheless, styled himself the chnrr/e d*affairesy on behalf of his sovereign and countrymen. The dwellings of the country people, throughout West- plialia to Hamburg, are exactly adapted to their purposes. The entrance to their houses leads through a great long threshing-floor; on both sides, the horses and cows are kept; at the extremity is the kitchen ; the dwelling-rooms lie behmd the hearth and on the side ; thus, the whole household eco- nomy is superintended from the kitchen. The country people are cleanly and well clothed ; but, with so little taste in matters of costume, that the handsomest among them look frightful, from the uncouth cut of their garments. In Ham- burg I saw two country-women, enlirely in black, with short petticoats, folded in a thousand plaits, asstifl'asa Mall. Theif ugly caps had greaf top-knots, more than n foot long, so that, altogether, they appeared like a couple of furies. Every The Elbe. --AlUma. 13 one (said the Danish officer^s servant, who was crossing the Elbe with me,) traces the features and marks the differences of beauty, according- to his own opinion and inclination, for which others may see no manner of reason, THE ELBE. The Hamburg steeples are finer than those of Paris ; but, persons who have travelled a great deal, entertain doubts as to this. The mass of things they have seen may fill their heads with large folio lineaments of objects, without exhibiting correct copies of the archetypes. The raw Westphalia bacon and hams were not congenial with my palate; I was for having them dressed. Such as may travel this road after me should be on their guard, or they will find themselves cheated in their money-transactions, as I have been. That the assemblage of powers then in Frankfort may bestir a golden foot, every where, is a consummation devoutly to be wished, but much to be doubted ! ALTONA, This place is the inlet to the King of Denmark's territories in Holstein. Out of these parts went the Cimbri, the Angles, and ancient Normans, who conquered Neustria in France, and penetrated into England, Naples, and Sicily ; once they m ere considered as the nurseries of heroes and the ablest champions of the continent. Altona looked very tranquil ; like Hamburg, under the scourge of France: and a shocking scene occurred here, when, on the 9th of January, 1713, this place was burnt by Steinbeck. He has survived those calamities, and Altona begins to flourish again, under the Danish sceptre, with ifs former rights and ordinances. The German states of the King of Denmark comprehend the Duchy of Holstein, the Cimbrian Chersonesus, the Barony of Pinnenburg, the Earldom of Ranzau, Lauenburg, and the city of Altona. The Eyder marks the political frontier between Germany and the Danish dominions. Holstein is subdivided into four ancient provinces, Holstein, Stormarn, Ditmarschen, and Wagrien ; the three first formed the old north, or Trans-Elbian district. Wagrien was anciently the refuge of formidable pirates; known, however, under various climates and in different parts of Europe. Holstein contains about 318,940 individuals. The high-road, through the Hol- stinian territory, from Hamburg to Renzburg, as in the adja- cent tracts, is environed by heaths and sandy wastes ; but, on the sea-coast, there is an amazing difference, the soil being very fertile. Several thousands of young oxen are fatted in the meadows of this district ; and afterwards sent to supply Ham- 14 Tour through the North of Germany, ^c. burg with beef. We met many thousands pfoing in droves, from Jutland to the markets of Itzehoe. These poor beasts were followed by their owners, who came riding, as in a ca- valcade, already reckoning with joy on the price of blood. With motives, somewhat similar, the Swiss suffer themselves to be bought and sold ; and princes sell whole bodies of their subjects, when men are driven to the markets of despotism, ready to adopt the impious conclusion that it is an honour to die for their rulers. HOLSTEIN. Holstein and Sleswick are esteemed the most populous parts of the kingdom of Denmark; they are, in dimensions, about 309 square miles. The two duchies enumerate 251 noblemen's estates, twenty-six cities, twenty-nine boroughs or market- towns, and 4,000 villages. Their stock of cattle is computed at 355,392 cows and oxen. Population near 600,000 indivi- duals. Of horses, in 1797, 16,000 lots were exported out of the Danish states, of which Holstein furnished 6,386, and Sleswick 3,546. UCK. Near Uck, in the division of Tunderen, lies the mountain Dingberg, where the states are reported to have formerly as- sembled. A mole, built of stone, and of a considerable length, is still a prominent object, and there are remains of an ancient fortress, a vestige of the wars between the Kings of Denmark and the Counts of Holstein. The church was burnt, during an invasion of the Imperialists, by the Danes, in 1027. Near Feldstedt and Holebeel are several Pagan tumuli, or grave- hillocks. Ju some of the adjoining territories are families of Frieslanders, who live apart from the rest of the community, and have a language of their own, which is spoken in its purity at StedestancT. In the neighbourhood of that place, there are also remains of an ancient fortress. Wear Bulderup are more Pagan tumuli. The high state of cultivation, the fine race of norses, their choice herds of horned cattle and abundance offish, render these parts, to all appearance, com- fortable and even wealthy. A degree of prosperity is here observable ; neat and tasty habitations, with excellent clothing, for both sexes. The women bear a striking resemblance to those of England. FORA. In the island of Fora, also, I remarked a great numlier of tumuli. This was one of the original nurseries of the whale- Angeln. — Sleswick, '" 15 fishery. In the judicial administration of several districts, and their mode of raising taxes, many traces of remote antiquity are discernable. In the province of Eiderstedt, near Olders- wort, was fought, in the thirteenth century, that memorable battle which gave freedom to the north, and occasioned the death of king Abel, who, having murdered his brother Erie Plog'pennig, was, in requital, assassinated by a carpenter, named Wesselhummer, On the way from Nordstapel to Ervdt, I met with places of ancient sacrifices, near which, from time to time, have been found urns, falchions, sharp-pointed stones used in the old Pagan rites, and various massive clubs, ANGELN. The province of Angeln, or Anglen, was the region of the Anglo-Saxons, that conquered the southern provinces of Britain, and who occupied considerable districts in this country. Among the various German tribes, those people, known by the JLatin name of Angli, appear to have been a distinguished race, as the nation they subdued derived its name from them. The commencement of the issuing forth of the Angles seems to have been in or near the year 449; the Frieslanders suc- ceeded them in their country, and took possession of the lands they had abandoned. Angeln is a beautiful province, well cultivated, pleasingly varied by fields, meadows, woods, farm- houses and villages; and, in addition to this grateful variety, the soil is likewise exceedingly fruitful. SLESWICK. Sleswick lies at the extremity of a considerable bay, called Sley, formed by nature in a demi-circle. The town has a pe- culiar appearance, consisting of merely one street, which, how- ever, extends to a very considerable length, and contains a number of good houses. Numerous observations on the subject conspired to prove that this was the seat of prosperity. My entrance into it seemed to be ushered in by the sound of a trumpet, which proceeded, however, from a detachment of cavalry accompanying a judge, who caused it to be proclaimed that the Eastern country court would speedily commence its sitting. A printed list specified the causes which were to be tried. Among the consistorial cases, I read the following ar- ticle, "First, on Monday, 14th of April, 1817, Bernard Fre- deric Naive, of Eschelsmark, against Anne Meos, of Burg- wedel, pro inhibitorio in puncto promissi consummandi niatri' monii" To both these persons judgment was given *' dis- solvendi matrimonii. The civil matters followed, and the parties interested could read, in print, the time when their 16 Journal through the North of Get many ^ ^c, process would be undertaken. The pleadin<^s were in public, and no one was refase4 Journal through j\''orway, ables they possess. Here we saw some silrer watch^ kn4 good clothes. Their doors stood open, night and day. We next proceeded toFaemundsheetan, where we passed the great Faemund Lake, stopped one night at Elion, and next morning reached the confines of Sweden and Norway, which on both sides exhibit a mere desert. At Idre we changed horses and went on to Serma; we were obliged to advance at leas* a league by water, on the river Osterthal, and had the raoa luck to meet with a small boat by the shore. We came to a minis- ter's, or parson's house, whose son's wedding was then celebrat- ing. It was full of people of all descriptions, forming a droll caricature scene, to which we merrily contributed. Our effects were brought in by the multitude, without our paying any at- tention to them ; the parson's silver-plate was lying about in all directions ; his watches hung in every room ; a hundred persons, at least, were present, most of them of the poorest sort, eating and drinking in every corner of the house, and yet, all was safe. Our parson, who was a good open-hearted character, received us most generously, and would accept of no recom- pence ; he was even displeased that we presented his daughter with a couple of ducats, because she would load us with bread and other provisions. The wedding attendants were very jovial, all the company shook hands with us, and welcomed us into Sweden. We spent the night in the utmost conviviality ; and next day proceeded, over waste mountains and marshes, partly riding, but chiefly on foot, till we came to Serma. SERMA. The parochial extent of the church at Serma is greater than the whole kingdom of Wirtemberg, and there are parts in it to which the population have not yet penetrated. The minister here informed me, that he was unacquainted with many of his f parishioners, as the district embraced so wide a sphere. The itile colony at Serma inhabit a very agreeable valley, throu-rh which the river Thai flows, forming a small island. The rector was a friendly and worthy old man, freely sharing what he enjoyed with all about him. His house stood on the banks of the river. They caught fish on my account, and enough at one time to serve the family eight days. The soil is good in Serma ; and in the parson's garden, I noticed some fine sallads, peas, broad-beans, &c. &c. From thence we journeyed on, through wastes and difliculties, to Elfthal, where, as there Mas no inn, we went, as usual, to the parsonage, into which we were kindly received, and shortly afier our arrival, were visited by the curate and the former vicar's widow ; each of these entreated us to stop a day longer, and spend with them. We FtilJiun. — Hedemora* ^ *weirt to view the porphyry- works near Aassen, accompanied by the curate. The models are but indifferent, and this branch of business is but little attended to, in Sweden ; though they tDiight make it a source of emoluments In fact, they are paying* for foreign articles, at a rate which exceeds the expences of cultivating the several arts in their own power. The porphyry is of various colours, and truly beautiful. Italy does not possess finer. On the following day, we pursued our journey through Dalecarlia to Mora, where we crossed the river Thai. The situation about Mora, on the Lake Siljan, is lovely ; several villages cover the hills, and the lake-prospect is very gratifying. Here Gustavus Vasa addressed himself to the brave Dalecar- jians; to his exertions, Sweden owes her emancipation from Denmark, We failed not to visit the cellar in which he con- cealed himself, when the myrmidons of Christiern were in pur- suit of him. The Dalecarlians are a handsome^ vigorous race, and justly pride themselves on having been the saviours of their country. The land is fruitful up to Fahlun ; their habi- tations are good, as are also their apparel and living; I must, however, except their bread, often made of the rind of trees, ^nd miserable. FALHUN. Falhun lies in a hollow, in a fruitful and hilly neighbour- hood, affording pleasant views. About the city, i\ow three lakes, at a small distance, the Waelen, Varpar, and Nun Lakes; and from these proceed the streams that drive the machinery of the copper-mines. The population is about five thousand souls; under Queen Christina, they amounted to twelve thousand. The copper-mines were very considerable in 1650, when they yielded twenty thousand ship-pounds of metal ; now, they give out, at most, between four and five thousand. They belong to a company consisting of twelve hundred persons. A share in it is purchased for nine hundred, or a thousand rix-dollars, {banco) and yields an annual net income of about a hundred rix-dollars banco. In these mines, to a lively imagination, all wear a poetic appearance; tfee traveller, who descends into these subterraneous caverns, finds the miners an industrious and obliging people, whose complaisance to foreign visitors will make them forget the smoke of their atmosphere, and the xopper-dust that envelopes their clothes. We left Fahlun, with some reluctance; the descent into their mines is by machines. «EDE»lORA. The way from thence to Hedemora is truly agreeable, th« whole country presenting the face of a cultivated garden. The Voyages and Travels, JVo. 1. Vol F. I dfi Jourjiul ihrouyh Sweden* situation of the town on the Hofra Lake 18 delightful ; it h but small, and may contain about nine hundred inhabitantv^ Close to the adjacent village Gaether, is the rich iron-mine of Bisberget. The whole province of Dalecarlia, though a 6ne country, is thinly spread with inhabitantf>, who do not amount to more than four and twenty thousand. Their dia« lect and physiognomy announce affinity with the old German stock. This is more particularly evident in the parts about Mora. At Gradae, we crossed the river Thai, on a bridge a quarter of a mile in length. At Avestadt, the river has a fall which serves the copper and iron-works. The position of this place appears highly romantic to a stranger. To Sala, the road leads through beautiful woods, where, by one of Nature's diversities, the soil produces some of the finest of fruits. SALA^ Sala may contain about two thousand inhabitants. The mines are not so productive as some voyagers have represented. The director did not seem to be well-informed or intelligent. The whole establishment had not the appearance of being judiciously conducted. Ifs product is stated at a hundred ship-pounds of lead, and fifteen hundred marks of silver. But I thought these returns exaggerated. The peasants of the disr trict must furnish coals and wood to the mines ; this calls for great labour, and it proves unfortunate for them, that nature nas entombed her rich metals here. In the director's apart- ment, hung a knout, with which the miners are flogged, M'hen in fault, at the orders of the director. In 1544, the pit yielded one and twenty thousand marks of silver. At the inns, here, as throughout Sweden, knackbrod, butter, and coffee, were all the viands we could procure, and this among a population of two thousand ! But the Swede is ever a circumscribed being, in his means of living, &c. ; his ultramarine friends furnish him with every thing, even to the very hay for his horses. VPSAL. Upsal, (the next place we reached,) on the river Firisae, is the seat and central point of Swedish learning: the Muses have selected this for their northern settlement. The environs are agreeable. The city has good broad streets, and on the whole is well-built. The population amounts to upwards of four thousand. The university is a rich treasury of materials for every science, and strangers of all countries will concur in ad- miring them. There are two great coffers in this place, of Gustavus the Third, sealed and fastened with iron chains, which were opened fifty years after his death. Several of the SioMiolm, fi7 profeasors have acquired celebrity ia Germany, France^ &c. by their excellent writings. In the university, are about 600 students ; the youngest of them have stated vacations, when they g"o home to their parents. The mode of living here is after the German fashion. Of ancient Upsal there are no remains; but we were shewn the spot on which, according to tradition, Edin's house once stood. From Sala to Upsal, the whole ex- tent is a fine plain, in high cultivation, with fields abounding in fruits of all sorts, just as in the best parts of Germany. The road from hence to Stockholm is somewhat mountainous. Woods of fir last to the very suburbs of that capitalj our entrance into which had the appearance of a parry of pleasure, as crowds of people, in coaches and on horseback, were returning to the city, from the fine gardens of Haga^ in the plenitude of parade and fashion. StOCKHOLMi The first view of this metropolis is so singularly pleasing, that other places are forgotten — or Naples alone can vie with it. The morning after our arrival, we were serenaded by the city musicians, a compliment ever paid to foreigners, and de- rived from an ancient custom. The streets are noble, and the houses magnificent; the fort, public buildings, libraries, arsenal, military-schools, in short, all the national establishments bear marks of grandeur, power, and taste. Like ancient Rome, Sweden may assert her claim to several public memorabilia. Here stand names of huntsmen-king*<: there patricians mur- dered Goertz : and Patkul was beheaded, for vindicating bis country's rights. Here the people committed homicide on Fersen, accused of poisoning the crown-prince, by Christiern Augustus Charles, Duke of Holstein-Sleswick. There stand statues of those models of heroism, Gustavus Vasa and Adol- phus. From this spot, Charles XII. sset out to vanquish kings and give away kingdoms. On another, Christiern caused the best of the citizens to be slaughtered 1 The ci»y stands on islands which have both sweet and salt-water about them ; ge- nerally it is situated on the lake Maclaren, which communicates with the Baltic sea. Out of the fine harbour of Kristepheit, ships are seen to sail in all directions. This is a separate view, and forms a contrast with the islands and houses, exhibiting another city upon the water. Here lay to the value of four millions of iron, with various other merchandize, the produc- tions of Sweden's soil and industry, and destined for other na- tions. The shops are full of the stuff-i (often iudiHTerent) of other countries : the Swede is ever unmindful of his owa copious I 2 6S Jovrnal ihrov^h Sweden, resources. The national pride of the peasant*, clothes them iir their native products; but here all is d-la^mode de Paris !-^ French faylors, shoemakers, perfumers, Sec. &c. flock to Stock- Lolm, and the Swedish nobility prefer them to tradesmen of their own country. No city has finer public promenades. The park, which extends to the castle of the crown-prince, seems like a world of enchantment. The bay is enlivened with the colours of different nations. Turkish music accompanies par- ties of pleasure. The shores are covered with elegant country- houses, and the varieties of green in the gardens and walks, present a striking" contrast to the grey clifts that rise above the water's surface, in a thousand whimsical forms. The inhabi- tants have an air of satisfaction and cheerfulness which is gra- tifying for the traveller to witness. Equipages of all sort?, even lo the little Swedish trilla, vary the scene; music, coffee, and confectionary-shops, lemonade, punch, beer, wine, provi- sions, all abound, and every Sunday displays a scene of festi- vity at Stockholm. No capital on the Continent possesses a finer situation, or has such promenades for recreation and exer- cise ; the Linden at Berlin, the Prater and Augarlen at Vienna, even Shoenbrunn itself, will never stand the test of compa- rison. Stockholm contains about 80,()00 inhabitants. On the whole, for its picturesque scenery, &c. no spectator of refined feelings and fancy can quit the country but with reluctance. On the road to Norknoeping, are several places where little rock«, interspersed with woods, alternate as in an English gar- den.* The little town of Nykioeping has a brisk trade, is pret- tily built, and contains aboiit 2,000 inhabitants. Here the me- lodious Swedish language is spoken in its greatest purity. On the way to Norkioeping, near Wreta, at StaflTsioe, we stopped to visit one of the cyclop's forges, alias, a foundry for cannon and balls. The hills here rise gradually, until a fine lool^ over Norkioeping displays another kind of objects in the plain. NORKIOEPING Is built on both sides of the river Matra; over it, handsome bridges, both of wood and stone, afford ready communication. The population amounts to about 9,000. A number of trades and manufactures give it an air of animation and wealth. The Mota here has a very fine waterfall. There were several Spa- nish ships in the port in 1817. At the distance of a mile from Norkioeping, stands Fort Laefsta, upon a hill, which exhibits, as usual, another beautiful prospect. * (The title was forgotten here) Nyfdoqting. Lindfeioeping.-^ Wadsfcna, 68^ LINDKIOEPING. Lindkioeping' is a neat little town, containing- about 2fi0(f inhabitants. The cathedral possesses several antiquities that were coeval with the reigfn of Catholic superstition. Throu^fhout Sweden, one can scarce fancy one's-self in a Protestant country. We remarked in the church of Stockholm, and in other places, pictures and saints, with their histories, expressed in painting-s and sculpture, and the priests using* ceremonies at the altar similar to those of the Catholics. They wear silk chasubles and mitres, with lace, velvet and gold-embroidered ornaments, as the latter do. Among the common people, traditional tales keep up the belief in' sprites, g-hosls, magic, &c. In the castle at Stockholm, a white woman appears (they say) as at Cleves, on occasion of the death of any member of the royal family. Be- yond Lindkioeping, we traversed a fruitful plain ; and, at Motala, saw a multitude of hands at work on the Goetha canal. This is a national undertaking that, when completed, will re- flect lustre on the Swedish name and country. Most of the labourers were soldiers, who, like those of ancient Rome, are thus useful to the state, both in peace and war. Count Platin is the superintendaat ; he is a German by birth ; but what can a German do in Germany ? — In a couple of miles' travelling, we arrived at a village where the habitations lay scattered upon fine turf, and walks led to swinging-lines, temples, and places of popular assemblage ; but, advancing onwards through the streets, we could find no inhabitants. We wished to know where the inn was: there was no one to tell us. This place has the name of Medevi, and is the most famous for mineral- waters of any in Sweden. The inhabitants, however, had all deserted it, since the beginning of August, 1817. It being then autumn and cold, the waters had lost their efficacy. Se- veral crutches were hung up, like the ancient votive tablets, in testimony of the cures of that year. WADSTENA. Wadstena is an ancient city, and has a ruinous castle, one of the works of Gustavus Vasa. In an old church, the traveller beholds here many antiquities belonging to the Catholic times. The land of the adjoining country is very well cultivated. Skennige and Ekesioe are pretty little villages. In the neigh- bourhood, stands Redelfors, with its gold-mine, the annual pro- duct of which is nearly a hundred ducats. Several handsome country-houses, belonging to opulent individuals, as in the environs of all the towns in Sweden, served to beguile the at- tention, by their neatness and newnes». I do not recollect in any of the old towns, a single instance of either spires or tombs. 70 Journal through Sweden, CARLSKRONA. Carliifkrona, which covers five bare rocky islands, \#a* founded by Charles XI. in 1680. He compelled the citizen* of Nonneby to abandon their habitations, and settle here. This city was afterwards burnt down, but is now rebuilt, and ap- pears the handsomer for it. The number of inhabitants is rated at 10,000. The streets are regular, and there are some fine buildings in them ; but the grass is growing in the streets, while thistles and other weeds are to be seen in a noxious abundance : the place appears flat and dull ! Flocks of geese were running about the streets, just as in an open meadow. It is, never- theless, the grand arsenal and workshop of the Swedish ma- rine. The hand of power has here erected one monument of its greatness. The bent and aims of a people, and of their government, are illustriously shewn in their national works; this the ancient histories of Greece and Rome, in their bright periods, eminently evince. To Gustavus III. Sweden is in- debted for various arts and liberal endowments ; a monument is raised to his memory on the newly-made docks. Every pub- lic work in Sweden inspires ideas of grandeur. The Swedes are heroes in war, and, under a skilful management, would be true citizens at home. BLECKINGEN. The province of Bleckingen contains a number of pretty little towns ; but the whole territory through which the roads lead, may again be likened to a chaos — the ruins of a fallen world ! The province of Schoonen is a perfect contract. Em- bellished nature teems here with large and fruitful plains, full of horned cattle. Christianstadt has a good fort, founded by Chrisliern IV. King of Denmark, in 1614; it contains about 2,000 inhabitants. The province of Schoonen had for ages its own kings ; afterwards it became subject to Denmark, and, in 1658, with Bleckingen and Halland, was finally ceded to the crown of vSweden. Their houses, clothing, and dialect are very different from the other provinces, to which they also bear but little resemblance in point of cleanliness ! ISTADT. From Istadt, a post-yacht goes twice a week to Stralsund; on arriving at this place, I had to wait two days for my passage; a circumstance which becomes irksome in a poor town, where there is not a thing worth seeing! Travelling in Norway and Sweden is uncommonly cheap. I had been advancing upwards of a thousand leagues, required the use of more than six hun- dred horses, and my charges did not rise to more than five* and- twenty louis^d'ors, in gratitioation-money to postillions, waiters, lielnni to Germany. 7l € said to constitute the merry circle of those accustomed to the /*ar niente. In the mornings, th« elegantes go in handsome equipages and in parties, to the sea- bath, which lies about a mile out of Doberan. The Grand Duke has effected considerable improvements in this place al«o, and has done every thing for it that art and taste could «ugg-est. WISMER, Wismer is a pretty little town, with a population of five thousand inhabitants^ It formerly belonged to Sweden, whose arms are still to be seen here in more places thau ooe» SCHWERIN* Scfawerin i« the residence of the Grand Duke, and chiefly tfueritfi attention for its handsome female*. The castle is very I Wittemberg, — Lauenburg, — ZelL '73l< ancient, but in a ruinous condition. One part of it is reported to have been built by Wallenslein. Tiie city, as such, has little in it worthy of notice. The gardens of the castle serve for a public promenade, and thereby furnish an expedient for people to see and to be seen. WITTEMBERG. Wittemberg and Beizenberg are both small towns. Writers on the statistics of Germany thus describe Mecklenburg : " It was the country of the Heruli and Vandals; it is two hundred and seventy-four square miles in extent; reckons three hundred and fifty thousand inhabitants, and pays a million eight hundred thousand guilders in contributions. It has many rivers and forests; is flat or level, and no part of Europe has worse roads* The once-celebrated race of the Mecklenburg fine horses is almost extinct. Those of the country-people are now but in- different," LAUENBURG. In Lauenburg, everyone eulogises, with enthusiasm, the good character of the King of Denmark. His government has made these people as happy as his own Danes. The Norwegians, too, all wish for his paternal regimen. Fortunate those countries which can shew such rulers ! The soil or land of Lauenburg up to Zell is but indifferent, being mostly heaths, and the roads are terrible. In them, we merely travel at a walking pace, and the postillions halt at every tippling-house ; so that many hours are thereby lost. If a traveller complains, they retort upon him, with a full share of insolence, so that the only remedy is patience. Moreover, for these shocking roads, there are fre- quent barriers where you stop and pay ; two post-horses here, for five miles only, cost seven rix-doliars of our money. ZELL. Zell is a pretty town, containing eight, or, as some say, nine thousand innabitants. The only object remarkable in it is the castle where the unfortunate Caroline-Matilda, Queen of Denmark, mother of the reigning sovereign of that country, and sister of the late King of England, terminated her life. In the church are her remains, whereon sensibility will not fail to drop a tear. She died in the bloom of youth, being only twenty-four years of age. At the last station before we reach Hanover, we had a sight of the post-regulations, which were hung up ; but the miles here are lengthened, and the post- money is thereby increased; there being no tariff for the dif- ferent coins, the post-keepers never take according to the course Voyages and Travf.ls, No» 1. Vol. V, K 74 Journal through Germany, of exchange, and the traveller is sure to be cheated, as well as detained a full couple of hours, though the post-ordinances allow only a quarter of an hour. In many other countries, similar regulations are framed to be talked of only by the fire- side. In Sweden, however, they take care that the laws shall be duly enforced. HANOVER. Hanover is an agreeable place, where every thing, with the exception of opulence, wears the features of England. The city may boast of very fine public walks, but people, alas! are wanting to frequent them. Almost all the houses are of wood, and in general very old. Most of the streets are destitute of decorations. Sixteen thousand individuals form the computed population, which declined greatly under the French govern- ment. In the best shops, appear various articles of English industry, for sale, not as patterns for German imitation. GOTTINGEN. The land all the way to Gottingen is fruitful; it affords fine prospects, formed by the chain of hills. The little town shews signs of prosperity; but their wooden houses place them a hundred years in arrears, in respect of taste and elegance. The university is respectable, and has not less than 1200 students. MINDEN. The road is good, the country fertile, and the situation of ]^inden delightful. It is situated on the united rivers of the Warra and Fulda, which change their names to the Weser. A Norwegian, or a Swede, might here fancy himself in his native Country, CASSEL. Cassel is tolerably handsome, and an agreeable sort of bustle seems to prevail here. The elector, to the great joy of his brave Hessians, has made every thing German here again. The neighbourhood has its attractions, in a continued series, to the positions of Marburg. Here is a university, which may contain about 200 students. An ancient casile recalls to memory the great achievements of their ancestors. OIBSEN. Giesen is a lively little town, with about 300 students in its university, which has furnished many great men in every branch of science. The situation is pleasant, and the whole of the surrounding country may be considered as attractive. Here are good roads, pretty richly studded with lofty trees. ^arrat omnis homo ! ir^i^f