LIBRARY 
 
 UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA. 
 
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 JAM 1895 
 
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 S8I! 8X 
 
CALIFORNIA: 
 
 AN HISTORICAL POEM 
 
 BY 
 
 ALFRED ROBINSON, 
 
 AUTHOR OF "LIFE IN CALIFORNIA." 
 
 SAN FRANCISCO 
 WILLIAM DOXEY. 
 
 1889. 
 
COPYRIGHT, 1889, 
 BY WILLIAM DOXEY. 
 
To 
 THE PIONEERS OF CALIFORNIA 
 
 THIS WORK 
 IS RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED BY 
 
 THE AUTHOR. 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 The following Poem is an attempt to delin 
 eate and expose the eccentricities of a country 
 whose sudden rise and progress have no par 
 allel in the world s history ; and, in the many 
 allusions to them, the author would remark 
 that none are intended as personal, but, on 
 the contrary, mere outlines of events, transpir 
 ing during the first period of California, under 
 a new and alien system of government. 
 
 SAN FRANCISCO, 1 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 When Roman zeal had forced its way and gained 
 A footing on the western shore, and when 
 Brave souls to raise the cross and spread their faith 
 Within a savage land had risked their lives 
 T was then a place was sought their patron saint 
 To dedicate. A spacious bay inclosed 
 By fertile lands, whose hills and vales were stored 
 With wondrous wealth, through which bright 
 
 rivers roll d 
 
 And spread their golden sands o er all the plains 
 Around. The woods and glens were rife with 
 
 game, 
 
 And there the wily Indian roamed, to chase 
 The deer, or there the grizzly bear to hunt 
 And fearless slay. Oft to some rude steep he 
 Climb d, and ling ring on the lofty height, hailed 
 There with joy the scene that lay beneath. But 
 
8 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 Ah ! a frown his swarthy brow did cross, when 
 On a gentle mound his piercing eye did 
 Rest, near which at work some zealous priests the 
 Pathless woods were felling, and where clusters 
 Of the savage tribes were busy too, a 
 Place to clear, that there they might a Christian 
 Temple build and elevate the cross. For 
 Rapid strides the Fathers made, and daily 
 To their righteous fold did many converts 
 Gain. Along the hills and neighb ring shores 
 
 were 
 
 Other stations, and at every one, they 
 Prospered well ; whilst here and there, the 
 
 gardens 
 Green and cultured fields that might be seen, 
 
 gave 
 
 Ample proof of how the Fathers lived. The 
 Warrior too, gave sterling aid, and arm d 
 With buckler, pike and blade, protection gave, 
 As briskly on, the conquest went, for Priest 
 And Soldier, both, would save the savage soul. 
 
PREAMBLE I. 
 
 One eve, as I rambled, not far 
 
 from the city, 
 A poor woman I happened 
 
 to meet ; 
 Who said to me sadly, Good sir, 
 
 pray have pity, 
 And quick give me relief I 
 entreat. 
 
 UHIVERSIT7 
 
io CALIFORNIA. 
 
 " Since the morn s early dawn, in vain I ve 
 
 sought food, 
 To keep my starved children from 
 
 crying, 
 A trifle from you sir, will do 
 
 the babes good, 
 
 And save them most surely from 
 dying." 
 
 "Then haste thee, good mother," I said, 
 
 "and be fleet," 
 As I pressed in her hand a 
 
 gold coin ; 
 With this ye can buy them abundance 
 
 to eat, 
 
 So away, thy young starvelings 
 to join." 
 
CALIFORNIA. 1 1 
 
 Resuming my ramble, so sadly 
 
 suspended, 
 She said, "Stay, I have something 
 
 for thee ; 
 For kindness like thine to those thus 
 
 befriended, 
 
 A requital should have, sir, 
 from me. 
 
 Accept then this optic, its 
 
 mystical sight, 
 Will the past like the present 
 
 display, 
 And things that have perished will bring 
 
 back to light, 
 
 Though to mem ry long faded 
 away. 
 
12 CALIFORNIA. 
 
 So homeward I hurried, o erjoyed 
 
 at the thought 
 That now I could fathom my 
 
 neighbor ; 
 A test was soon made on a knave 
 
 whom I sought 
 
 Whose faults were exposed without 
 labor. 
 
 And bound now to visit the great 
 
 growing North, 
 Where the sages had built a large 
 
 village ; 
 I packed up my treasure with which 
 
 I set forth, 
 
 To discover their scheming and 
 pillage. 
 
CALIFORNIA. 13 
 
 A few days at sea brings us close 
 
 to the scene 
 Where swift up the bay we are 
 
 gliding ; 
 The current moves rapid, the wind 
 
 it blows keen, 
 
 And soon, we at anchor are 
 riding. 
 
 Now, Ho ! for a peep at the great 
 
 golden city, 
 And I raise the charmed gift to 
 
 my eye ; 
 But what do I see? Oh, great God, 
 
 in thy pity, 
 
 Pray forgive all the faults I 
 descry ! 
 
i 4 CALIFORNIA. 
 
 Aloft, e en above the high 
 
 telegraph peak, 
 Amid clouds of bright silver 
 
 and gold ; 
 An eaglet doth soar, with this scroll 
 
 in her beak: 
 
 Here both Justice and Conscience 
 are sold. 
 
 More central is seen the fair Goddess 
 
 of Fame, 
 Her eyes glaring wild and 
 
 in ire ; 
 A book lies before her she points 
 
 to its name, 
 T is written in letters 
 of fire 
 
SAN FRANCISCO. 
 
CANTO I. 
 
 Two rapid streams from ages known, r 
 That in their course conjoined had grown, 
 
 The legends tell ; 
 
 And flowing on, o er vast domains, 
 Through flowery meads and grassy plains, 
 
 A lake did swell. 
 
 Whence bursting o er its rocky bound, 
 Their ceaseless flow bold egress found, 
 
 Thus fresh and fair ; 
 To sportive join the briny deep, 
 Therein to rage, or there to sleep 
 
 With waveless care. 
 
1 8 CALIFORNIA. 
 
 And flowing on, still swift they ran, 
 
 E er deep ning where their breach began 
 
 Its shallow strait; 
 Till by their flow was oped a way, 
 Disclosing now a spacious bay, 
 
 In pristine state. 
 
 Where twas that came in after years, 2 
 That holy band of Pioneers, 
 
 Of whom we read; 
 
 Whose active zeal did thousands win 
 From Pagan rites and Pagan sin 
 
 To Rome s fair creed. 
 
 And once a year a gallant sail, 
 
 From Castile s shore, with Royal mail, 
 
 Then cheered the port; 
 Where safely moored, for months she lay, 
 Dispensing out, from day to day, 
 
 The aid she brought. 
 
CALIFORNIA. 19 
 
 But not till Spain s proud sway was o er, 3 
 Did other ships these wilds explore, 
 
 Or traffic here ; 
 
 And then so rare that they appeared, 
 Whene er one came, twas gladly cheered, 
 
 E en far and near. 
 
 When in a nook that sheltered lay, 
 Called Yerba Buena, in its day, 
 
 The anch rage ground ; 
 Were bartered off the wares she brought, 
 In change for product found in port, 
 
 At posts around. 
 
 And thus it was, those early days, 
 Gave little else of note to praise, 
 
 From year to year ; 
 
 Unless, perchance, some new-raised cot, 
 Or rustic cross, on some lone spot, 
 
 The way to cheer. 
 
20 CALIFORNIA. 
 
 Yet many an inroad had been made, 
 Ere progress dared to lift the shade 
 
 Where darkness lay ; 
 And then the task a hero braved, 
 As step by step, he boldly paved 
 
 The cultured way. 
 
 A gallant Swiss, whose love of fame, 4 
 Bestowed " Helvetia s" classic name 
 
 On those broad lands ; 
 Where he, so long, had chieftain been, 
 And where e en now, his home is seen, 
 
 And sightly stands. 
 
 At length a war with neighb ring foes, 5 
 Brought with it all the ills and woes 
 
 That cause dismay ; 
 
 When changed the scene before so bright, 
 For all its charms of old took flight, 
 
 And passed away. 
 
CALIFORNIA. 21 
 
 But haply here the strife was short, 
 For ships of war besieged the fort, 
 
 Within the bay ; 
 
 When all its posts, on either side, 
 Submissive bowed, with humbled pride, 
 
 To alien sway. 
 
 And so, the foe, now sovereign here, 
 His laws proclaimed, afar and near, 
 
 Throughout the land ; 
 O er which waved free, from many a height, 
 The emblem of his country s right, 
 
 Long there to stand. 
 
 From which events we justly date, 
 The magic rise of this our State, 
 
 To rank and name ; 
 That in this bold, progressive age, 
 Takes signal part on history s page, 
 
 Indeed, of fame. 
 
 U1TI7ERSITF 
 
22 CALIFORNIA. 
 
 For as progression forced its way, 
 
 To lands yet rude, o er which held sway, 
 
 A supine race ; 
 
 Its active march to light revealed 
 A golden tract, till now concealed, 
 
 Of wondrous space. 
 
 Which news soon spread afar and wide, 
 Till freely told on every side, 
 
 In statements rare, 
 
 That as they went, so wild they grew, 
 Their glowing tales the eager drew, 
 
 To grasp a share. 
 
 For thus allured with hope of gain, 
 Their thousands formed a living chain, 
 
 O er land and sea ; 
 
 Whose thoughts by day, and dreams by night, 
 Of " El Dorado visions bright, 
 
 Gave joy and glee. 
 
CALIFORNIA. 23 
 
 For gold it was, they frantic sought, 
 And t was for gold the seas they fought, 
 
 And tempests scorned ; 
 God only knows the victims dead, 
 Whose forms bestrew the ocean bed, 
 
 Perchance unmourned ! 
 
 Yet many a ship in triumph brought 
 Her living cargo safe to port, 
 
 For transit here , 
 And truly twas a treat to see, 
 These Argonauts on shore, set free, 
 
 So full of cheer. 
 
 Indeed, in fleets they crossed our Gate, 
 Each gallant bark replete with freight, 
 
 Of product rare ; 
 
 More prized than gems of precious gold, 
 For freights they were of freemen bold, 
 
 And matrons fair. 
 
24 CALIFORNIA. 
 
 That soon the barren hills made gay, 
 With thousands there, at work or play, 
 
 From morn till night ; 
 Whose armed display and tents around, 
 Had semblance to some battle-ground, 
 
 Or fortress height. 
 
 Whence now embarked they went in bands, 
 To seek, betimes, the golden lands, 
 
 Yet far away ; 
 
 And twas indeed a merry sight, 
 To see them off, with hopes so bright, 
 
 And hearts so gay. 
 
 The Sharp, howe er, saw golden cheer, 
 In daily schemes of profit here, 
 
 For him to rule ; 
 
 And soon to work his wits he set, 
 That he might draw within his net, 
 
 Some pliant tool. 
 
CALIFORNIA. 25 
 
 The Merchant, too, remained behind, 
 A shelter for his wares to find, 
 
 And give them care ; 
 For merchandise that came to hand, 
 And lay exposed upon the strand, 
 
 Had perished there ! 
 
 The Landlord, too, thought best to stay, 
 And in his own peculiar way, 
 
 Do service here ; 
 
 Preparing homes with special care, 
 For those who sought his humble fare, 
 
 And promised cheer. 
 
 The Lawyer, though, bright visions saw, 
 In counsel fees, and suits at law, 
 
 That promised pay ; 
 And so to anchor quickly came, 
 To reap his share of all such game, 
 
 That came in play. 
 
26 CALIFORNIA. 
 
 The Court House then on "Portsmouth Square 
 Was oft the scene of judgments rare, 
 
 And quaint decrees ; 
 And who doth not recall the way 
 The merchant service had to pay, 
 
 Its fines and fees ? 
 
 For scarce a ship that reached the port, 
 
 But brought some knave who soon was sought 
 
 A claim to make ; 
 And then divide the plunder got, 
 With him, who was the wily sot, 
 
 The suit to take. 
 
 That tiny, dingy, loathsome Court ! 
 
 T was there the steamships first were sought, 
 
 As legal prey ; 
 
 And dearly did their agent bleed, 
 To pay the sums the Court decreed 
 
 To give away. 
 
CALIFORNIA. 27 
 
 The Gamester, too, from choice remained, 
 Whose moral scruples ne er restrained, 
 
 His love for play ; 
 Nor luring to some modern hell, 
 The simple youth, who ever fell, 
 
 An easy prey. 
 
 For all such dens, now served with care, 
 Adorned with gaudy trappings rare, 
 
 The weak allured ; 
 And he, who ventured there to look, 
 Was trolled along to take the hook, 
 
 And then secured. 
 
 What glaring sights were seen around, 
 When, in each street, the idler found 
 
 A place like this ! 
 
 When games of chance, and music too, 
 So charmed the crowds that thither drew, 
 
 They thought it bliss. 
 
28 CALIFORNIA. 
 
 At night, as one the streets did pace, 
 He saw, what seemed in every place, 
 
 Some magic spell ; 
 
 Where there the charms of song and dance, 
 That so the joys of life enhance, 
 
 Did freely dwell. 
 
 And other scenes were blithe and gay, 
 Where tipplers passed their time away, 
 
 Like sots of old ; 
 
 And sat and talked morn, noon and night, 
 Of startling deeds, and bloody fight, 
 
 For lust of gold. 
 
 The Parson, too, resolved to stay, 
 But not fair maid to give away, 
 
 Oh, no indeed ! 
 
 For maidens then were scarce, I ween, 
 And, in the town, too rarely seen, 
 
 Such aid to need. 
 
CALIFORNIA. 29 
 
 He tarried here, in hope, forsooth, 
 To lure some stray d and fallen youth, 
 
 From sin to prayer ; 
 And carry back to other days 
 His thoughts of home and early ways, 
 
 When bright and fair. 
 
 The Doctor, too, attractions saw, 
 And, like the trickster of the law, 
 
 Beheld his prey ; 
 
 For soon the miner, sore displeased, 
 Came limping from the mines, diseased, 
 
 With means to pay. 
 
 And thus, a harvest, rich indeed, 
 
 Came pouring in, whilst hearts did bleed 
 
 For friends of old ; 
 For brothers, or some other kin, 
 Who victims fell, to worldly sin 
 
 Of lust for gold. 
 
30 CALIFORNIA. 
 
 The graveyard then, o er North Beach hill, 
 Betrayed the march of many an ill, 
 
 From day to day ; 
 
 Whose grassy mounds the numbers told, 
 Of those, alas ! both young and old, 
 
 That pass d away. 
 
 Thus hoary Time, his transit sped, 
 
 And though fond hearts too oft had bled 
 
 At scenes like these, 
 The State at large had much to cheer, 
 For Mammon cast his treasure here, 
 
 The world to please. 
 
 And though its millions passed away 
 To other shores, from day to day, 
 
 In virgin gold ; 
 
 They did not drain these staunch domains, 
 So rich were all the hills and plains 
 
 With wealth untold. 
 
CALIFORNIA. 31 
 
 The Sages, wild at these extremes, 
 Began reform in all their schemes, 
 
 Without delay ; 
 
 And soon proposed their acts to crown, 
 By special change from chartered town 
 
 To city sway. 
 
 When they, who held the public weal, 
 Did from the public eye conceal 
 
 Their knavish plans ; 
 By sales of lands and contracts, too, 
 Mong those ycleped the chosen few 
 
 Of favored clans. 
 
 But this, howe er, was nothing new, 
 For oft the town had done so, too, 
 
 In early days ; 
 
 Though then esteemed of minor spoil, 
 And did not friends and foes embroil 
 
 In wrangling frays. 
 
32 CALIFORNIA. 
 
 But where bold peculation laid, 
 Was in the sales by Sheriff made, 
 
 Of public land ; 
 
 To pay a judgment gained in law 
 By Peter Smith, who quickly saw 
 
 The game on hand. 
 
 In sorry truth, sin grew apace, 
 And sowed its seeds in every place, 
 
 To feast thereon ; 
 The city seeming all fair game, 
 For every one of vicious fame 
 
 To prey upon. 
 
 It was, indeed, a "Botany Bay" 
 Of convict rogues, skilled every way 
 
 In fearful crime ; 
 
 Whose hellish scenes of dreadful fire, 
 And murder, too, that did transpire, 
 
 Gave test in time. 
 
CALIFORNIA. 33 
 
 The people roused at length, to ire, 6 
 Resolved these fiends should hence retire, 
 
 By force of arms ; 
 
 And formed at once, a gallant band, 
 Each member sworn to rid the land 
 
 Of all such harms. 
 
 And well they kept their oaths, forsooth, 
 For prompt the rogues in every booth 
 
 Were made secure ; 
 
 When one bold stroke on * Portsmouth Square, 
 A hanging matter, did declare 
 
 Their vengeance sure. 
 
 But, truly, twas a sight most sad, 
 To thus behold a crowd, half-mad 
 
 Gloat o er its foe; 
 
 But who can say the course pursued 
 Had not at least its moral good, 
 
 Though crowned with woe ! 
 
34 CALIFORNIA. 
 
 A few such chast nings spread alarm. 
 For soon the culprits fled from harm 
 
 By land and sea ; 
 
 And through the State, the issue proved 
 A sovereign check, where treason moved, 
 
 That left it free. 
 
 And now, triumphant over crime, 
 These guardsmen brave have left to time 
 
 To solve their acts ; 
 And, in disbanding, each has placed 
 The part he took, to be retraced, 
 
 And judged from facts. 
 
PREAMBLE II. 
 
 A boat was now waiting, to take 
 
 us on shore, 
 With our luggage already 
 
 therein ; 
 So quickly we followed, the town 
 
 to explore, 
 
 And in haste the grand work 
 to begin. 
 
36 CALIFORNIA. 
 
 On landing we rode to the nearest 
 
 hotel, 
 O er a sadly conditioned, 
 
 rude pier; 
 Whose planking was such though we passed 
 
 o er it well, 
 
 As to cause us, with reason, 
 much fear. 
 
 For every few paces a hole 
 
 was passed by, 
 Yawning wide to the waters 
 
 below, 
 Where many a victim had drawn 
 
 his last sigh, 
 As o er him the current 
 did flow. 
 
CALIFORNIA. 37 
 
 The avenues, too, were quite out 
 
 of repair, 
 So that jolting, we went all 
 
 the way ; 
 Till reaching our lodgings, we paid 
 
 the coach fare, 
 And alighted without more 
 delay. 
 
 The famous Tehama ! Yes, this 
 
 was the place, 
 Whose lessee, Master Frink, at 
 
 the door, 
 A welcome there gave us, with smiling 
 
 good grace, 
 
 And a room on the second 
 flight floor. 
 
3 8 CALIFORNIA. 
 
 This earthquake proof mansion as oft 
 
 it was named, 
 Had escaped all the ravage 
 
 of fire , 
 Whose model was such as to make 
 
 it most famed 
 
 Of all others, when one did 
 retire. 
 
 Its windows were low, and a fine 
 
 balustrade 
 Encircled the building 
 
 around ; 
 From whence one with ease, o er a light 
 
 palisade, 
 
 Could escape by a leap to 
 the ground. 
 
CALIFORNIA. 39 
 
 But the time has gone by for this 
 
 kind of fear 
 No longer such clangers 
 
 alarm ; 
 The fireman is prompt, and treats 
 
 with a jeer 
 
 Every risk, so he saves us 
 from harm. 
 
 In fact, this Department, effective 
 
 and true, 
 Was made up from the bloods of 
 
 the town ; 
 
 Who for boldness of tact, and clev 
 erness, too, 
 
 Have maintained far and near a 
 renown. 
 
40 CALIFORNIA. 
 
 With this just admission, we pensive 
 
 lay down, 
 To reflect on the whims of 
 
 the day ; 
 And wondered if strangers that visit 
 
 the town, 
 
 Have observed, as we have, its 
 decay. 
 
 Its growth was too rapid, it merged 
 
 in a day, 
 As it spread o er the hillocks 
 
 around, 
 And so will it vanish as quickly 
 
 away, 
 
 Until naught shall be left but 
 a mound. 
 
CALIFORNIA. 41 
 
 Which fate the rude Indian doth sadly 
 
 foreshow, 
 When relating his legend 
 
 of old; 
 How a city would rise from regions 
 
 below, 
 
 And a sacrifice fall to 
 its gold. 
 
 Five times has it happened, the omen 
 
 tis plain, 
 When destruction by fire 
 
 ensued ; 
 But, Phoenix-like, rising to power 
 
 again, 
 
 The calamity may be 
 renewed. 
 
42 CALIFORNIA. 
 
 Come when it will come, there is hope 
 
 for it left, 
 And a chance the sad presage 
 
 to foil ; 
 Though deep are the wounds which disaster 
 
 has cleft, 
 
 Yet it still may long prosper 
 by toil. 
 
 Then courage, Franciscans ! On ye 
 
 it depends, 
 Let misfortune come oft as 
 
 it will ; 
 Be honesty thine, howsoe er 
 
 the tide wends 
 So that thus ye may yet 
 triumph still. 
 
CALIFORNIA. 43 
 
 The night passing o er, we made haste 
 
 now to test 
 The effect of our glass from 
 
 the street ; 
 And took for our station, the point 
 
 judged the best, 
 
 Where Montgom ry with Jackson 
 doth meet. 
 
CANTO II. 
 
 Behold the Past! There where you stand 
 The water rose at God s command, 
 
 And bathed the shore. 
 Whence gentle springs, and streamlets fair 
 From out the gathered sand dunes there, 
 
 Did freely pour. 
 
 And on your right, where yet is seen 
 The drama s once grand palace queen, 
 
 A lakelet stood, 
 
 In which the wild-fowl oft did play, 
 When blustering winds swept o er the bay, 
 
 In angry mood. 
 
46 CALIFORNIA. 
 
 And where Commercial cuts your street 7 
 A mansion stood of frame complete 
 
 And model fit ; 
 
 Whose halls oft rang with music s strain, 
 In love-told song, or sweet refrain, 
 
 With frequent wit. 
 
 Its mistress then, a charming dame 
 Had far and near, reputed fame 
 
 For grace and pride ; 
 Who, queen-like, at the festive board, 
 Oft joined her friends and true liege lord, 
 
 To there preside. 
 
 It was the primal fabric then, 
 To cheer this lonely sea-side glen, 
 
 So famed of yore ; 
 And mem ry dear must first decay, 
 E er charms so prized shall pass away. 
 
 To charm no more. 
 
CALIFORNIA. 47 
 
 And further on, a square, we 11 say, 8 
 Where California spans the way 
 
 Was Leidesdorff s pride; 
 A tiny cottage, plain and neat, 
 And fairest gem that one could meet 
 
 Then, far and wide. 
 
 With garden-plot of flowers rare, 
 Kept ever bright and ever fair 
 
 By clever skill ; 
 
 From whence, abruptly, shooting rose 
 And brought Montgom ry to its close, 
 
 A sandy hill. 
 
 And when the rich discovered ore, 
 So many lured to seek the shore, 
 
 Then Leidesdorff died. 
 But soon a kind successor came, 
 Whose friendly acts endeared his name 
 
 On every side. 
 
48 CALIFORNIA. 
 
 For who did not regard the man, 9 
 When first the tidal wave began 
 
 Its influx here ; 
 
 Who unto all, that sought his aid 
 A kind and generous hand displayed, 
 
 With friendly cheer. 
 
 And when a project was begun 
 
 To build a church, and have it done 
 
 Without delay ; 
 
 A school, or lodge, for any good, 
 Twas he, who ever foremost stood, 
 
 To aid the way. 
 
 This tribute then, we deem in place, 
 For in the city s weal, we trace, 
 
 His helping hand ; 
 
 That in the State s grand progress, too, 
 The part it took, and had to do, 
 
 Will brightly stand. 
 
CALIFORNIA. 49 
 
 And now, that bold aggressive war, 
 No longer vexed this western shore, 
 
 By sea or land ; 
 
 The powers at home, proposed a scheme, 
 To have each month, a mail by steam 
 
 At their command. 
 
 But hard it was, to find the man 
 Of soul so great, to risk a plan, 
 
 That naught assured ; 
 And not till Gotham s son came forth, 10 
 The princely merchant of the North, 
 
 Was it secured. 
 
 When, thro his zeal, prompt means were wrought, 
 Whereby, to reach this idol Port 
 
 And golden land ; 
 
 Where thousands now are here to-day, 
 Who d not been here, but for the way 
 Oped by his hand. 
 
5 o CALIFORNIA. 
 
 For which they laud him as their friend, 
 For which the world will e er commend 
 
 His vent rous act ; 
 And when we praise him for it here, 
 We 11 hail him as the Pioneer 
 
 In truth and fact. 
 
 But let us turn to other scenes 
 
 Where progress now has scarce left means 
 
 Amidst our rise, 
 
 To trace the lines of by-gone days 
 With all their charms, and social ways, 
 
 Save memory s ties. 
 / 
 
 There, on your left, upon the strand 
 Amid the piles of drifted sand, 
 
 That strewed the shore . 
 A warehouse stood, that in its day, 
 Was justly called, we well may say, 
 
 A model store. 
 
CALIFORNIA. 51 
 
 Where rolled the tides, so near its base 
 They scarcely left a foot-path space 
 
 Along its side ; 
 
 Which, when blocked up, as often seen. 
 Gave no spare room to pass between 
 
 The house and tide. 
 
 Oft then a launch lay near the shore, 
 In hailing distance from the store 
 
 The flood to wait ; 
 And when enabled by the tide 
 She, from the very warehouse side, 
 
 Embarked her freight. 
 
 For then the Steamship s Agent, made 
 This famous spot, for truck and trade 
 
 His business place ; 
 Where now, upon the very spot 
 An iron warehouse fills the lot 
 
 With comely grace. 
 
52 CALIFORNIA. 
 
 Twas oft the scene of many a strife 
 Twixt parties, who, with rudeness rife 
 
 Enforced their way ; 
 To be the first to make secure 
 A homeward passage doubly sure 
 
 For steamer day 
 
 And though it stood upon the shore 
 A lone attraction, as before 
 
 The rapid change ; 
 T is now the centre of the town, 
 And hid by structures of renown 
 
 That round it range. 
 
 Still further on, a space beyond 
 Where once was seen a shallow pond, 
 
 Stood LeidesdorfTs store ; 
 From whence ran out a puny pier, 
 The first that graced the landing here 
 
 Before the war 
 
CALIFORNIA. 53 
 
 The searching eye" met nothing more 
 Along this unfrequented shore, 
 
 So bleak and bare ; 
 Till " Rincon Point" its craggy bluff 
 Projected out with boldness rough, 
 
 And visage rare. 
 
 Unless it were the "Happy Vale" 
 That sheltered from the frequent gale, 
 
 Was Cupid s pride ; 
 
 Whose groves and walks from day to day, 
 Were ever thronged with lovers gay 
 
 From far and wide. 
 
 For there, the trees and shrubs so green 
 With foliage rich as e er was seen 
 
 In Paradise ; 
 
 And flowers, too, of brilliant hue 
 That fostered by the morning dew, 
 
 Did odors rise. 
 
 UII7ERSITY 
 
54 CALIFORNIA. 
 
 And made it thus a haunt for love, 
 Whilst Nature there, the cooing dove 
 
 In pairs had sent ; 
 
 That by their plaintive notes so rare 
 They might the hallowed place declare 
 
 When Love there went. 
 
 It was for festive sports the spot, 
 Where many a crowd its surfeit got, 
 
 Of joy and glee ; 
 
 As there they chased dull care away, 
 From early morn till close of day, 
 
 So light and free. 
 
 And now, behold, upon your right, 
 
 Near " Simes s Bank" friend Nathan s site, 
 
 A grassy mound ; 
 
 Where stood his house, his mill and store, 
 With little garden, too, before, 
 
 All fenced around. 
 
CALIFORNIA. 55 
 
 And further on, where now doth run 
 
 The street called " Clay" then just begun, 
 
 Lived Vioget; 12 
 
 Whose fancy cottage and saloon 
 Were ever crowded, morn and noon, 
 
 For billiard play. 
 
 The "Custom House 1 and " Toum Hotel" 
 Remain for us to state how well 
 
 Their fate they bore ; 
 And how they stood, preserved with care, 
 For years the pride of Portsmouth Square, 
 
 As gems of yore. 
 
 A few more buildings scattered round, 
 Upon this " Yerba Buena" ground, 
 
 Made up the town ; 
 
 And near North Beach we yet may find, 
 The last memento of its kind, 
 
 In lone renown/ 3 
 
PREAMBLE III. 
 
 With a parting adieu to the bright 
 
 golden town, 
 And its fetes that so endless 
 
 abound ; 
 We embark on a steamer, whose name 
 
 and renown, 
 
 Have extended indeed the 
 world round. 
 
58 CALIFORNIA. 
 
 For who but remembers the " Senator s 1 
 
 fame, 
 And 6clat for the fortune 
 
 she won 
 When, with crowded saloon, and deck 
 
 too, the same, 
 
 She up toward the gold region 
 run. 
 
 The harvests she gathered were bright 
 
 yellow gold, 
 Quite enriching her owners 
 
 indeed ; 
 As o er the broad basin she 
 
 gallantly roll d, 
 And traversed the river 
 with speed. 
 
CALIFORNIA. 59 
 
 And now, though no longer the river 
 
 she plies, 
 But o er the blue waters 
 
 doth run ; 
 Yet still her rich harvests continue 
 
 to rise, 
 
 And add to the piles she 
 has won. 
 
 So, steaming away, we soon traverse 
 
 the bar, 
 Gliding on o er the billows 
 
 so gay ; 
 Till point after point receding 
 
 afar, 
 
 Brings us close to the end of 
 the day. 
 
60 CALIFORNIA. 
 
 At length the green hills of Point Pinos 
 
 appear, 
 Rising up like a cloud from 
 
 the deep ; 
 And ere the sun setting, we hail 
 
 with a cheer, 
 
 Its blanch dunes, where the wild 
 surges leap. 
 
MONTEREY. 
 
CANTO III. 
 
 The pine clad hills of Monterey, 
 Behold them in their vestment gay, 
 
 Of beauty rare ; 
 
 There soaring upward toward the skies, 
 In matchless grandeur as they rise, 
 
 So bright and fair ! 
 
 Yet ah ! how sad to see them harmed, 
 And so despoiled of all that charmed 
 
 The raptured gaze ; 
 
 When forests dense their summits crown d, 
 And spread their foliage thick around, 
 
 In one dark maze. 
 
64 CALIFORNIA. 
 
 Not e en their beauty could them save, 
 Nor all the prayers true homage gave, 
 
 To have them spared ; 
 Nor threats of law, nor Lynch alarm, 
 Could have effect to stay the harm 
 
 The spoiler dared. 
 
 -* 
 
 He hearkened not, he heeded not, 
 But hewed away from spot to spot, 
 
 With laughing scorn ; 
 Proclaiming as he bent his way, 
 For this our Government did pay 
 Ye Greasers born ! 
 
 And so, good Uncle Sam became 
 A cloak for crime, though not to blame 
 
 For such misdeed ; 
 
 Whilst here and there, the squatter, too, 
 Did chuckling sneer, and pay his due, 
 
 With self-same plead. 
 
CALIFORNIA. 65 
 
 In truth t was thus throughout the State, 
 With waggish rogues, who caught the bait, 
 
 As " Sam s true kin /" 
 As on they went, these rightful heirs, 
 Whate er they craved, proclaiming theirs, 
 
 For twas no sin. 
 
 But let us leave this brigand scene, 
 For one more staid and pure, I ween, 
 
 Of days gone by ; 
 
 When peace and plenty bless d the land, 
 And hearts content went hand in hand, 
 
 With scarce a sigh. 
 
 For in those days it was that came, 
 Those goodly men of pious fame, 
 
 To teach the way ; 
 
 When yet the woods and hills around, 
 With wild beasts howl did loud resound, 
 
 Both night and day. 
 
66 CALIFORNIA. 
 
 When oft-times then, old grizzly made 
 His seaside stroll, to dauntless wade 
 
 Within the sea ; 
 
 Or feast upon some carcass there, 
 Of stranded whale, or some such fare, 
 
 That there might be. 
 
 When at noonday he d plunge the wave, 
 The stormy billows fierce to brave, 
 
 The old folks say ; 
 
 And dashing through them gain the shore, 
 Where habit led him, oft before, 
 
 In quest of prey. 
 
 Beyond these scenes we thus portray, 
 Which form the outskirts of the bay, 
 
 A ruin lies ; 
 
 Of rough-hewn stone, whose relics tell 
 Its once proud state, and also, well 
 
 The spot descries. 
 
CALIFORNIA. 67 
 
 It is a charming place, and proves 
 That he who lived there liked its groves, 
 
 And had good taste ; 
 For search the region all around, 
 Another spot could scarce be found 
 
 So truly chaste. 
 
 Twas there progression first appeared. 
 That paved the way which culture cheered 
 
 In after age ; 
 
 And many a relic must decay, 
 Ere all its charms be swept away, 
 
 From Nature s page. 
 
 The little Church, so lonely left, 
 Though now, by Time, of much bereft, 
 
 That gave it life ; 
 Yet proudly stands a monument 
 To those whose lives were freely lent 
 
 In days of strife. 
 
68 CALIFORNIA. 
 
 In primal times a martial square 
 
 Did shield its shrine from outward care 
 
 And hostile fear ; 
 
 When clank of arms and rolling drum, 
 With piercing fife and warriors hum, 
 
 Gave constant cheer. 
 
 For many a Spanish hero, then, 
 With half a thousand loyal men, 
 
 Did guard its walls ; 
 When scarce a day, but joy and glee, 
 Its hours would end, with hearts so free, 
 
 In routs and balls. 
 
 With music too ! the light guitar, 
 That gently touched, was dearer far, 
 
 By maiden s hand ; 
 Whose silvered voice, in alto clear, 
 Revealed sweet love in strains most dear, 
 
 From Castile s land. 
 
CALIFORNIA. 69 
 
 Thus briskly time did pass away, 
 Forever free and ever gay, 
 
 With song and dance ; 
 For naught but pleasure then did reign, 
 Whilst love of home, and faith to Spain, 
 
 Did joy enhance. 
 
 And though but slow the town progressed, 
 It here and there, at length possessed 
 
 Some thriving spots ; 
 Yet scattered so upon the green, 
 Their cosy huts were faintly seen, 
 
 Like little dots. 
 
 But, strange to say, not one betrayed 
 The slightest taste for floral aid, 
 
 Their grounds to charm ; 
 For scarce a tree or shrub was there, 
 Save nature s growth, that void of care, 
 
 Had scaped from harm. 
 
7 o CALIFORNIA. 
 
 And so it was, till other hands 
 Had come afar, from distant lands, 
 
 These dearths to share ; 
 When soon a thriving garden plot, 
 Made bright each comer s homestead lot, 
 
 With flowers rare. 
 
 But see where now so sightly stands 
 Yon rustic mound, whose site commands 
 
 The town and bay ; 
 
 Where once the Royal Standard waved, 
 And where bold valor fearless braved, 
 
 The savage fray. 
 
 For twas the fortress in its day, 
 Erected there to guard the way, 
 
 To Christian light ; 
 And long it did a shelter yield, 
 To those who then the cross did wield 
 
 For ends so bright. 
 
CALIFORNIA. 7 1 
 
 But more remote its cannon drove, 
 A private squadron from the cove, 14 
 
 Where they would land ; 
 Repelling prompt their bold attack, 
 With such effect that forced them back, 
 
 To join their band. 
 
 And though their bark seemed much impaired, 
 They put to sea, and boldly dared, 
 
 To risk the main ; 
 Full eager, too, to leave to spot, 
 Where pluck and skill had foiled their plot, 
 
 And hope for gain. 
 
 Since which grand feat, so val rous won, 
 Its rampart scarce has fired a gun, 
 
 Save when for sport ; 
 Or sign to guide some lonely bark, 
 That sought at night, when late and dark, 
 
 To gain the port. 
 
72 CALIFORNIA. 
 
 Unless we cite rebellion s feat, 
 When fierce incensed to warlike heat 
 
 The Creole rose ; 
 
 And ere the town its slumbers raised, 
 The fortress seized, and from it blazed 
 
 Upon their foes. 
 
 A spacious lawn that cheers the bank, 
 Reveals the spot where many a prank 
 
 Full pleasure won ; 
 Where oft the merienda bade 
 Both old and young, of every grade, 
 
 To join its fun. 
 
 At which they danced and sang away, 
 With mirthful glee and sportive play, 
 
 Till day had ceased ; 
 While not a soul of social heart, 
 Who in the merry fete took part, 
 
 But seemed well pleased. 
 
CALIFORNIA. 73 
 
 E en now, as then, the grounds remain, 
 With many a wreck that long hath lain 
 
 Strewed o er the shore ; 
 Of odds and ends of divers kind, 
 Which all so freely bring to mind, 
 
 Those freaks of yore. 
 
 Bat ah ! there s yet a dearer spot, 
 Which no true hearts hath yet forgot, 
 
 That claims our pen ; 
 To tell how there a Patriarch 
 Doth lie entomb d, without a mark, 
 
 The place to ken. 
 
 It is the one o er yonder hill, 
 Where many a trace remaineth still 
 
 Of auld lang syne ; 
 Where once the jolly Friar laughed 
 With full content, as pleased he quaffed 
 
 His ruby wine. 
 
74 CALIFORNIA. 
 
 This ancient site, or Mission post, 
 So long attractive on the coast, 
 
 Still holds its spell ; 
 For there the sainted Serra lies, IS 
 And many a Father, good and wise, 
 
 Of whom they tell ; 
 
 Whom oft historic pages praise 
 As men who did their voices raise 
 
 In holy pride ; 
 
 Whose works and acts the critic ne er, 
 We hope, will dare to treat unfair 
 
 Or aught deride. 
 
 Go ask the aged Creole now 
 
 How fared he, when, with lowly bow, 
 
 He craved their aid ; 
 And hear him say, with downcast look, 
 "Though richer now, P d rather brook 
 
 The needy jade /" 
 
CALIFORNIA. 
 
 75 
 
 Go ask the voyager how he bore 
 The rugged pastime then on shore, 
 
 And hear his voice : 
 
 " Though now there s comfort all around, 
 To have it, as it then was found, 
 Would be my choice ! 
 
 *^i5^ 
 
PREAMBLE IV. 
 
 Resounding aloud from the hills 
 
 that arise 
 O er the scene which encircles 
 
 the bay, 
 Booms the peal of a cannon, whose 
 
 re-echo dies, 
 
 Like a thunder-clap rolling 
 its way. 
 
7 8 CALIFORNIA. 
 
 Tis the signal for parting our 
 
 labor is done ; 
 The ship s anchor hangs fast to 
 
 her side ; 
 So it s ho ! for the ocean again 
 
 now to run, 
 
 And on its proud billows 
 to ride. 
 
 Swift onward we journey, enjoying 
 
 the night, 
 Now so placid, so gentle 
 
 and free, 
 That scarce a white ripple appears 
 
 to the sight, 
 
 So smooth is the beauteous 
 sea. 
 
CALIFORNIA. 79 
 
 When morning appears, we are close 
 
 to the shore, 
 Rolling swiftly along, blithe 
 
 and gay ; 
 Till at length Point Conception abaft 
 
 us soon bore, 
 And its vision fast fading 
 away. 
 
 Anon, we beheld o er the caps 
 
 of the land, 
 That precede the first glimpse of 
 
 a town, 
 Two lofty church towers, whose aspect, 
 
 so grand, 
 
 Quite betokened a place of 
 renown. 
 
8o CALIFORNIA. 
 
 But distance, we find, on arriving, 
 
 had given 
 An enchantment indeed to 
 
 the view ; 
 For, instead of a city, with kirks to 
 
 enliven, 
 
 E en the houses were scattered 
 and few. 
 
SANTA BARBARA. 
 
CANTO IV. 
 
 Yon mountain range that soars on high, 16 
 Whose towering peaks salute the sky 
 
 In Alps-like form ; 
 
 Did Fremont pass, one darksome night, 
 And brave the dangers of its height 
 
 Mid howling storm. 
 
 When down the bold and cragged steep 
 His gallant steeds did wildly leap 
 
 O er cleft and rock ; 
 
 And crushed to death were piled up found 
 A frightful heap and ghastly mound, 
 
 The sight to shock. 
 
84 CALIFORNIA. 
 
 And oh ! what tales of blood are told, 
 Of murder there, most foul and bold, 
 
 By villain done, 
 
 For vengeance, or for paltry gain, 
 That, to recount, would render pain 
 
 To more than one. 
 
 For many a victim there doth lay, 
 Now mould ring in his home of clay, 
 
 Whose fate is hid ; 
 Whilst here, within the very town, 
 His slayer stalks with fearless frown, 
 
 The crowd amid. 
 
 Yet brighter scenes the landscape shows, 
 More genial, too, good Heaven knows, 
 
 The heart to cheer ; 
 That bring to mind those blissful days, 
 Of by-gone times and guileless ways, 
 
 To memory dear. 
 
CALIFORNIA. 85 
 
 Behold, where yon lone Mission stands, 
 Amidst its hills and rolling lands, 
 
 So stately seen ; 
 
 Whose crumbling relics, scattered round, 
 Evince that once twas thriving found, 
 
 And rich hath been. 
 
 And see its thrifty gardens, too, 
 With flowing fountains, pure as dew, 
 
 And works of art ; 
 
 And stony church, whose walls within, 
 So hang with scenes depicting sin, 
 
 They daunt the heart. 
 
 Fit scenes, indeed, the savage mind 
 To tantalize, and firmly bind 
 
 To moral acts ; 
 
 For clearly thus, it sees portrayed 
 The end of sin, by art displayed, 
 
 Like glaring facts. 
 
86 CALIFORNIA. 
 
 And now, behold, all bright to view, 
 The little town, and fortress, too, 
 
 Half hid by trees ; 
 
 With here and there a gaysome spot, 
 Of garden fair, or verdant plot, 
 
 To cheer and please. 
 
 The buildings, few and far between, 
 Though low, present a comely mien, 
 
 When seen aloof; 
 
 Whose milk-white walls made still more fair, 
 In contrast with the ruddy glare 
 
 Of each tiled roof. 
 
 And on the strand what sights we see, 
 In rompish scenes of joy and glee, 
 
 With mirthful play ; 
 Where boatmen toil with jolly song, 
 And lift their voices loud and strong, 
 
 So blithe and gay. 
 
CALIFORNIA. 87 
 
 Indeed, twas once a merry sight 
 
 To watch their pranks from morn till night, 
 
 So full of charm ; 
 
 As through the surf they burdens bore, 
 And placed them safe upon the shore, 
 
 E er free from harm. 
 
 This busy spot the Indian sought, 
 And often here his offspring brought, 
 
 In days when free ; 
 To brave the waves in sportive play, 
 Or boldly dare, with hearts e er gay, 
 
 The ruffled sea. 
 
 And often, too, he would resort 
 
 To where then stood the barrack fort, 
 
 To play at ball ; 
 
 And wager deep, to thus enhance, 
 As e er the case, in games of chance, 
 
 The zeal of all. 
 
88 CALIFORNIA. 
 
 The barracks formed a spacious square, 
 And then a guard was stationed there, 
 
 To check surprise ; 
 For yet the Indian, wild and bold, 
 Sought oftentimes, we have been told, 
 
 In vain to rise. 
 
 For records of the Mission tell 
 How once he boldly did rebel 
 
 Against the Crown ; 
 And, fearless, sought to drive away 
 The royal corps which then held sway 
 
 Within the town; 
 
 When all the troop of mounted horse 
 Was prompt despatched, in ample force, 
 
 And valiant led ; 
 
 That marching up the Mission hill, 
 So charged, with truly martial skill, 
 
 The Indians fled. 
 
CALIFORNIA. 89 
 
 Just then, howe er, in merry peals, 
 The Parish bell loud toll d for meals, 
 
 When ceased the fight ; 
 And special orders to retreat 
 Were followed up with zeal replete 
 
 And eager flight. 
 
 The dinner o er, the troop returned, 
 To find the Mission sacked and burned, 
 
 And Indians gone ; 
 And so with this a victory claimed, 
 With ne er a horse or soldier maimed 
 
 Throughout the morn. 
 
 In these rude times, when fearless came 
 Those gallant knights of brilliant fame, 
 
 From Castile s lands; 
 When Christian conquest yet was young, 
 And converts rare were made among 
 
 The savage bands 
 
9 o CALIFORNIA. 
 
 Came one, who vowed to faithful serve/ 7 
 With holy zeal and steadfast nerve, 
 
 The righteous cause ; 
 And ever constant to fulfill 
 The mandate of his monarch s will, 
 
 His creed and laws. 
 
 Which vow, with firmness he observed, 
 And from it ne er had even swerved, 
 
 In thought or way ; 
 And faithful to his liege command, 
 Amidst the trials of the land, 
 
 He did not stray. 
 
 As chieftain, friend or private cit. , 
 In grand concourse, or scenes of wit, 
 
 His talent shone ; 
 And bounteous to the needy poor, 
 To all he gave, who sought his door 
 
 Their wants to moan. 
 
CALIFORNIA. 91 
 
 As Christian, sure the church can claim 
 But few who bore so fair a name 
 
 Within its fold ; 
 
 And long her prayers will cease to flow 
 Ere she forgets to justly show 
 
 These facts of old. 
 
 And as he lived, he calmly died, 
 
 His country s friend his people s pride, 
 
 And is no more ; 
 
 Yet " GuerrcC s" name shall lasting stand, 
 A record of his long-loved land, 
 
 Till Time is o er. 
 
 Among the isles that skirt the shore, 13 
 Was one oft sought in days of yore 
 
 For pelts and oil ; 
 
 Till constant raids of hunters there 
 Quite left them stripp d and almost bare 
 
 Of all such spoil. 
 
92 CALIFORNIA. 
 
 T is said that once a feud they made, 
 And gainst the native bared the blade 
 
 In bloody fight ; 
 
 When death s destruction proved the end 
 Of nearly all who would defend 
 
 Their homes and right. 
 
 Indeed, the Russian Codiack 
 
 An onslaught made that long did rack 
 
 The public mind ; 
 As sadly told, the tidings went, 
 And o er the wide-spread world were sent 
 
 To tell mankind. 
 
 In modern times, some sportsmen sought 
 This self-same spot for rural sport 
 
 And hunting cheer ; 
 When, strolling o er the dreary shore, 
 They spied a group, which fled before 
 
 With haste and fear. 
 
CALIFORNIA. 93 
 
 Amazed, the sportsmen gave it chase, 
 And followed up a toilsome race 
 
 Along the strand ; 
 Until, within a half-hid nook, 
 The fugitives were overtook, 
 
 And bade to stand. 
 
 One aged chief of humble mien, 
 
 With three rude dames, one, scarce sixteen, 
 
 The group combined ; 
 Who, crouching low upon the sand, 
 Obeyed at once the stern command, 
 
 With hearts resigned. 
 
 Their fears howe er were quickly quelled, 
 And dread of harm was soon dispelled 
 
 By change to glee ; 
 For, uncontrolled, they did consent 
 Their home to leave, with heart s content, 
 
 And cross the sea. 
 
94 CALIFORNIA. 
 
 So anxious now to reach the main, 
 The party sought the launch to gain 
 
 Ere closed the day ; 
 But on the way, as blithe they went, 
 The elder matron did relent 
 
 And stole away. 
 
 They sailed howe er, and left her there 
 Alone, her gloomy fate to bear, 
 
 Though twas unkind; 
 And rolling o er the swelling sea 
 Their little bark sped onward free 
 
 Before the wind. 
 
 Unharmed, they passed the channel o er 
 And reached e er morn, their destined shore, 
 
 San Pedro bay; 
 
 When landed safe, upon the beach 
 They soon set off, the town to reach 
 
 Without delay. 
 
CALIFORNIA. 95 
 
 T is quite enough for us to say, 
 
 They reached the town, and spent each day 
 
 In festal glee ; 
 
 But rash excess, and change of fare, 
 For these rude dames so free to share, 
 
 Did not agree. 
 
 Alas ! they died and left behind 
 
 The poor old chief, whose care-worn mind 
 
 Ne er ceased to mourn ; 
 Who, wandering sad from place to place, 
 At length was missed, without a trace, 
 
 To tell where gone. 
 
 -As time went by, he was forgot, 
 Till accident revealed the spot 
 
 Beside the shore ; 
 
 Where, crush d with sorrow, he had strayed, 
 And there, a maniac, betrayed 
 
 The grief he bore. 
 
96 CALIFORNIA. 
 
 Lo ! there he sat from day to day, 
 E er gazing o er the channel way, 
 
 Perchance to gain 
 
 A glimpse of home beyond the sea 
 Of that lone isle, where once so free, 
 
 He lord did reign. 
 
 But fate decreed he never more, 
 Should know again that cherished shore 
 
 His heart did crave ; 
 For on the deep one morn was found 
 His floating corse, with sea-birds crown d, 
 
 That told his grave. 
 
 T was thought, whilst gazing on the deep, 
 Stretch d on the cliff, he went to sleep 
 
 Too near its side ; 
 
 And dreaming of that long-loved isle, 
 With on his lips perhaps a smile, 
 
 He fell and died. 
 
CALIFORNIA. 97 
 
 The end was thus of poor "Black Hawk" 
 Of whom the tourists oft may talk, 
 
 And tell a tale ; 
 
 And drop a tear, in memory, too, 
 For him and those who e er did rue 
 
 Their vent rous sail. 
 
 Some eighteen years had rolled away, 
 Since that eventful, doleful day 
 
 We here recall ; 
 
 When she, who on the isle remained, 
 Was hither brought, and entertained 
 
 With warmth by all. 
 
 The change, howe er its mischief wrought, 
 And soon twas known she here was brought 
 
 To sink and die ; 
 
 For human kindness could not save 
 This lone and last one from the grave 
 
 Where she doth lie. 
 
PREAMBLE V. 
 
 With a parting salute, we are soon 
 
 underway, 
 O er the ocean again, now 
 
 to roam ; 
 Where its frolicsome billows unceasingly 
 
 play, 
 
 As they scatter around us 
 their foam. 
 
ioo CALIFORNIA. 
 
 And as we steam onward, we view 
 
 with delight, 
 Where the mountains recede from 
 
 the shore, 
 The evergreen gardens fresh, blooming 
 
 and bright, 
 
 With their little blanch d cabins 
 before. 
 
 Tis "La Carpenteria" and the famous 
 
 " Rincon" 
 Both a nice little drive from 
 
 the town ; 
 Where many a fete hath imparted 
 
 a tone, 
 
 And success to their name and 
 renown. 
 
CALIFORNIA. 101 
 
 So that parties oft visit their shores 
 
 to obtain 
 When the waters flow back from 
 
 the land, 
 A repast from the mussels its shallows 
 
 contain, 
 
 And that cling to the rocks on 
 the sand. 
 
 A few leagues beyond this, we see 
 
 near the shore, 
 What remains of a once thrifty 
 
 Mission ; 
 Disclosing now ruins, where grand 
 
 structures before, 
 Paraded in fine 
 exhibition. 
 
102 CALIFORNIA. 
 
 Alas ! all such stations are fading 
 
 away, 
 As their wealth and their power 
 
 have gone ; 
 And sad is the picture their relics 
 
 portray, 
 
 Now crumbling to dust, and 
 forlorn. 
 
 On our right stands the island called 
 
 " Anacapap" 
 A mere cluster of rocks, and 
 
 no more ; 
 Where the "Scott" laid her timbers, within 
 
 a deep gap, 
 
 As she went with a crash on 
 the shore. 
 
CALIFORNIA. 103 
 
 Anon, like a cloud, rising up 
 
 from the mist, 
 Far away in the distance 
 
 appear, 
 San Pedro s rude hillocks, whose features 
 
 enlist 
 
 A distrust in their shelter 
 and cheer. 
 
 But gliding along we soon enter 
 
 the bay, 
 Running close within hail of 
 
 the land, 
 And ere the ship s anchor rests fast 
 
 in the clay, 
 
 Her freight agent from shore, is 
 on hand. 
 
io 4 CALIFORNIA. 
 
 Who, ever efficient, is ever 
 
 prepared 
 For his patrons, whenever 
 
 they call ; 
 And his coaches are decent and nicely 
 
 repaired, 
 
 With comfort and roomage 
 for all. 
 
 So, taking our leave of the captain, 
 
 we pass 
 To the lighter, which takes us 
 
 away ; 
 Yet not, till together, we join 
 
 in a glass, 
 
 And first drink to his health, as 
 they say. 
 
CALIFORNIA. 105 
 
 For who did not fancy Tom Seely 
 
 as skip, 
 Or as friend and companion 
 
 on shore ; 
 For a more genial sailor ne er handled 
 
 a ship, 
 
 Nor traversed the ocean 
 before. 
 
 At length, having landed, we scale 
 
 the bluff- way, 
 Excavated adroitly with 
 
 care; 
 When a Postal politely invites 
 
 us to pay 
 
 At a station, near by, the 
 coach fare. 
 
106 CALIFORNIA. 
 
 But time will permit us without 
 
 much delay, 
 A slight glance at the neighboring 
 
 shore ; 
 So we ll glean what we can of its charms, 
 
 while we may, 
 To append to the Past, as 
 before. 
 
SAN PEDRO. 
 
CANTO V. 
 
 Lone, cheerless spot, and desert shore, 
 Where surges roll, and ceaseless roar, 
 
 So dull and drear ; 
 
 Whose hills reach far beyond the sight, 
 Till fading, like the evening light, 
 
 They disappear. 
 
 Lo ! there San Juan s tall peaks arise, 
 Upheaving toward the lofty skies, 
 
 And crown d with snow ; 
 Whilst prairies green that intervene, 
 Make up the grandeur of the scene, 
 
 Which lies below. 
 
[io CALIFORNIA. 
 
 The time was once, when o er this space, 
 Like little dots, the eye might trace, 
 
 O er vale and mound 
 The countless herds of grazing stock, 
 Upon a soil, where ne er a rock 
 
 Disturbed the ground. 
 
 And roaming wild, might then be seen, 
 In playful mood, and lively mien, 
 
 The gallant steed ; 
 
 Who, o er the plains would swiftly bound, 
 And sniff the air, as o er the ground 
 
 He pranced with speed. 
 
 And then the creek within the bay, 
 A sight revealed, from day to day, 
 
 The eye to please ; 
 Of drowsy seals, in scattered bands, 
 Whose thousands basked upon the sands 
 
 In tranquil ease. 
 
CALIFORNIA. 1 1 1 
 
 A rugged ridge called " Dead Man s Isle," 
 Was oft the spot where they did pile 
 
 E en to its top ; 
 
 And lying there, stretched in the sun, 
 Till thorough dried, they one by one 
 
 Would downward drop. 
 
 When quite alive would be the sea, 
 As round the isle unchecked and free 
 
 They sportive bayed ; 
 Whose barking sounds did loud resound 
 Within the Port, for miles around, 
 
 As there they played. 
 
 For then, as monarchs of the bay, 
 These creatures held unbroken sway 
 
 With naught to fear ; 
 Till came a roving, murd rous band, 
 Whose galley, coasting near the land, 
 
 Sought shelter here. 
 
 UNIVERSITY 
 
ii2 CALIFORNIA. 
 
 When fierce destruction then began, 
 That ended not till savage man 
 
 Had laid them waste ; 
 And now t is rare that one appears, 
 Unless compelled by modern fears 
 
 From harm to haste. 
 
 At length some zealous trader sought 
 To barter here, the goods he brought 
 
 With wonted cheer ; 
 And oped a trade for after age 
 To follow up, and duly wage 
 
 From year to year. 
 
 For then throughout this far-famed coast 
 San Pedro s Port could proudly boast 
 
 The largest trade ; 
 And greatest share of exports, too , 
 Of hides and pelts, with furs a few, 
 
 That then were made. 
 
PREAMBLE VI. 
 
 Now the coaches were waiting for 
 
 orders to start, 
 With their horses quite prancing 
 
 and gay ; 
 So we scarcely get seated, ere bounding 
 
 we part 
 
 And are racing along the 
 highway. 
 
ii 4 CALIFORNIA. 
 
 The reason for haste is, the public 
 
 well know, 
 They re running a strong 
 
 competition ; 
 And speed is their maxim, wherever 
 
 they go, 
 
 To outrival and beat 
 opposition. 
 
 So fleet do we travel, we soon 
 
 reach the plains, 
 More or less than ten leagues from 
 
 the sea ; 
 When the distance before us most cheerfully 
 
 wanes, 
 
 As we chit-chat so friendly 
 and free. 
 
CALIFORNIA. 115 
 
 A loquacious gent, half reclined 
 
 on his seat, 
 Ever anxious the Yankees 
 
 to bore, 
 Related the tale of an ill-timed 
 
 retreat, 
 
 Which occurred in the Mexican 
 War. 
 
 T was the one that recounts how the 
 
 Yankees, one day, 
 In their zeal and fresh hope for 
 
 renown, 
 From their war-ship fierce landed in battle 
 
 array, 
 
 And set off to lay siege to 
 the town. 
 
n6 CALIFORNIA. 
 
 Their forces, he told us, were met 
 
 on the way, 
 By a squadron of native 
 
 dragoons, 
 Who, well mounted on chargers both 
 
 prancing and gay, 
 Were advancing in gallant 
 platoons. 
 
 A little brass cannon much glory 
 
 did gain 
 As it mowed down the ranks of 
 
 their foe ; 
 And forced it to turn and fall back 
 
 on the plain 
 Far away from disaster 
 and woe. 
 
CALIFORNIA. 1 1 7 
 
 The gist of the tale is, when the 
 
 Yankees retired, 
 In disordered retreat from 
 
 the field ; 
 The natives down-hearted, their last 
 
 shot had fired, 
 And were only just ready 
 to yield. 
 
 The story so given, spread laughter 
 
 around, 
 As the gent it with mirth did 
 
 unfold ; 
 And we thought, if twere truthful, it 
 
 certainly crown d 
 All the feats of the war that 
 are told. 
 
n8 CALIFORNIA. 
 
 Had the Yankees continued their march 
 
 for the town, 
 Without care for any 
 
 collision, 
 They might have succeeded and gained 
 
 a renown, 
 
 Instead of this slur of 
 derision. 
 
 Ascending a rising, distinctly 
 
 we saw, 
 For some leagues the fine country 
 
 around, 
 With its lofty dark mountains that shoot 
 
 up before, 
 
 And its prairies where cattle 
 abound. 
 
CALIFORNIA. 119 
 
 A glimpse, too, we had, of the nice 
 
 little town, 
 Though partially hid by 
 
 the trees, 
 
 Where its gardens and vineyards of well- 
 known renown, 
 So adorn it, and charmingly 
 please. 
 
 The summit descended, we race 
 
 o er the ground, 
 Now so level and smooth as 
 
 it lay ; 
 On each side the bright flowers, fresh 
 
 blooming around, 
 Adding charm to the scenes on 
 the way. 
 
120 CALIFORNIA. 
 
 In the Spring of the year the whole country 
 
 abounds 
 In its flowers, the choicest 
 
 of hue, 
 When scarce then a spot can be found 
 
 o er its grounds, 
 But a garden presents to 
 to the view. 
 
 A short distance further, brings us safe 
 
 into town, 
 Where we halt at the house of 
 
 a friend, 
 And alighting, rejoice, as we quickly 
 
 leap down, 
 
 That we ve got to our long journey s 
 end. 
 
LOS ANGELES. 
 
CANTO VI. 
 
 " El Pueblo de los Angeles, 
 Indeed the town of Angels is, 
 
 Of beauty rare ; 
 
 And t is a spot that gives delight, 
 That fills the soul with rapture bright 
 
 And visions fair ! 
 
 Its walks, its rides, its hills and dales, 
 Its grassy plains, and fertile vales, 
 
 With flowers bloom, 
 
 Whose blossoms bright, sweet odors rise, 
 And fragrant greet the fost ring skies 
 
 In rich perfume. 
 
i2 4 CALIFORNIA. 
 
 What joy ! what gay content was here, 
 With scenes so chaste, and charms so dear, 
 
 Mong hearts so free ; 
 When irksome toil, and gloomy care 
 Gave place to pleasure everywhere 
 
 In mirth and glee ! 
 
 With homes thus blest, their wants were few, 
 Of things abroad, they scarcely knew, 
 
 Or gave a thought ; 
 But well content with what they had, 
 They ask d no more their hearts to glad, 
 
 Nor wished for aught. 
 
 For with a clime so soft and mild 
 They lived along, from care beguiled, 
 
 In constant health ; 
 Their grazing flocks on every side. 
 Enhancing e er their worldly pride, 
 
 And source of wealth. 
 
CALIFORNIA. 125 
 
 Thus time went by, from day to day, 
 In social sport and constant play, 
 
 With song and dance ; 
 From twilight eve till early dawn, 
 Within the cot, or on the lawn, 
 
 In blissful trance. 
 
 And on some special gala day, 
 Then hundreds came from far away 
 
 To join its cheer ; 
 
 When old and young would, mounted, dare 
 To taunt the bull, or savage bear, 
 
 Devoid of fear. 
 
 So, deck d in all their gayest pride, 
 Each horseman bold did gallant ride 
 
 With dext rous skill; 
 And there before his love display 
 Such feats that naught could him repay, 
 
 Save her good-will. 
 
26 CALIFORNIA. 
 
 But woe to him, from his adored 
 If by mischance his horse got gored, 
 
 Or he got thrown ; 
 For either fault would quite suffice 
 To cause dismissal in a trice 
 
 With scornful frown. 
 
 Twas rare howe er, or scarce was heard, 
 That such mishap had e er occurred 
 
 To man or horse ; 
 
 For o er the world from East to West, 
 As riders they were deemed the best, 
 
 On turf or course. 
 
 The children, too, could famous ride, 
 And three or four would sometimes stride 
 
 A gallant steed ; 
 
 The youngest in the middle placed, 
 When o er the town they wildly raced, 
 
 With scarce a heed. 
 
CALIFORNIA. 127 
 
 But ah ! alas, such times have fled, 
 
 And though grand wealth now reigns instead 
 
 To comfort life ; 
 
 Yet, with the change, untimely came 
 A host of rogues, whose vicious fame 
 
 Brought constant strife. 
 
 For here they found a home for vice 
 Wherein to sow with cards and dice 
 
 Their venomed deeds ; 
 Among a race who rude withal 
 Too easy bent to mischief s call 
 
 And grasped its seeds. 
 
 But later, theft and murder came, 
 Both followed up with equal fame 
 
 From time to time ; 
 Till scarce a day, but three or four 
 Were murdered found, and sometimes more, 
 
 By growth of crime. 
 
128 CALIFORNIA. 
 
 For such a vile and noxious set 
 Of midnight thieves, was never met 
 
 The world around ; 
 
 And cut-throats, too, who dealt in blood, 
 Whose fiendish acts, alas, did flood 
 
 And steep the ground. 
 
 They were " Sonera s" vilest fruits, 
 And direst pests, that, like fierce brutes, 
 
 On blood would feast ; 
 Whose dreadful crimes have scarcely left 
 A home extant, that s not bereft 
 
 Of friends, at least. 
 
 But, as the time at length progressed, 
 Such fiendish acts were prompt suppressed 
 
 By strength of arm ; 
 When "Sonorensic" malice fled 
 And left its haunts with anxious dread 
 
 And wild alarm. 
 
CALIFORNIA. 129 
 
 Since which these lands, thus purg d of crime, 
 Have merit gained from time to time 
 
 As culture came ; 
 
 And now, indeed, for leagues around, 
 With labor rife, are thriving found 
 
 And have great fame. 
 
 Far o er the hills, we may behold, 
 Still central in its open wold 
 
 A remnant yet 
 
 Of olden time, whose blighted fame 
 And sad decline must surely claim 
 
 The world s regret. 
 
 For there once stood a grand domain I9 
 Within its wide-spread fertile plain 
 
 Like some proud queen ; 
 With garden groves and vineyards fair 
 Whose varied fruits, both choice and rare, 
 
 Were charming seen. 
 
1 3 o CALIFORNIA. 
 
 But like its consorts in the State, 
 She too, has shared the grievous fate 
 
 They sadly bore ; 
 And thus her Indian convert here, 
 Compelled by want to disappear, 
 
 Is seen no more. 
 
 An index sad, of modern days, 
 Which serves to prove in many ways 
 
 The maxim true ; 
 
 That where the Saxon foot doth go, 
 It carries with it waste and woe 
 
 For them to rue. 
 
 But ah! indeed, tis Nature s course 
 The ever-certain, willful source 
 
 Whence comes the blow ; 
 And is the destined fate they bear 
 Which human aid can ne er repair 
 
 Nor stay its woe. 
 
CALIFORNIA. 131 
 
 For culture must enforce its way, 
 With onward march from day to day 
 
 Where rudeness lies ; 
 And so the Red Man, here to-day, 
 To modern progress must give way, 
 
 Though thus he dies ! 
 
PREAMBLE VII. 
 
 But let us return to the town s 
 
 merry haunts 
 And its scenes ever happy 
 
 and gay ; 
 Where there s comfort and pastime to 
 
 gladden the wants 
 Of the trav ler who ventures 
 this way. 
 
i 34 CALIFORNIA. 
 
 Beside the bright eye of the native 
 
 brunette, 
 That out-dazzles the gems she 
 
 may wear, 
 There is love in the Pike s to tease 
 
 and to fret, 
 
 And a mildness to soften 
 dull care. 
 
 There are vineyards and orchards and 
 
 gardens and fields 
 That embellish the village 
 
 around ; 
 With the sweetest of grape that abundantly 
 
 yields 
 
 And other choice fruits that 
 abound. 
 
CALIFORNIA. 135 
 
 The roads through the suburbs are 
 
 charming indeed, 
 With their little scant streams on 
 
 each side, 
 Where the bright verdant hedges though 
 
 covered with weed, 
 Add much to their fame far 
 and wide. 
 
 The country surrounding has greatly 
 
 progressed, 
 Giving life to its precincts 
 
 around ; 
 And the Mormon intrusion, so lately 
 
 suppressed 
 
 Doth now with attraction 
 abound. 
 
136 CALIFORNIA. 
 
 There s the range of Santana, and vale 
 
 of San Juan, 
 Far away from the skirts of 
 
 the town, 
 So thriving with plenty, they must 
 
 be anon 
 
 Grand places of wealth and 
 renown. 
 
 In fact, the whole country is blessed 
 
 with success, 
 And its people are happy 
 
 and gay, 
 For, without molestations to grieve 
 
 and oppress, 
 
 They have nothing to hamper 
 their way. 
 
CALIFORNIA. 137 
 
 So thus we will leave them and haste 
 
 to the strand, 
 Once again to resume from 
 
 the sea 
 A view of the sights which encompass 
 
 the land 
 
 And give vim to their charms, gay 
 and free. 
 
 Suffice it, that safe we arrive 
 
 at the bay, 
 Where the steamer lies ready 
 
 to part ; 
 So quickly embarking*, we are prompt 
 
 under way, 
 
 With a speed that gives joy to 
 the heart. 
 
138 CALIFORNIA. 
 
 For soon, the bold bluff of Point 
 
 Loma appears, 
 As the hill of " San Pedro" 
 
 grows dim, 
 With the coast line so near us, that 
 
 often with cheers, 
 We are hailed by the groups on 
 its brim. 
 
 These greetings so cheerful, were all 
 
 that we met, 
 To attract and divert on 
 
 the way ; 
 And yet their dull sameness gave naught 
 
 to regret, 
 
 For with music, we pass d off 
 the day. 
 
CALIFORNIA. 139 
 
 At length a bell warned us of something 
 
 at hand, 
 And the steamer soon slackened 
 
 her way ; 
 So we hied to the deck, whence we saw 
 
 twas the land, 
 
 Whose surroundings we came to 
 survey. 
 
SAN DIEGO. 
 
CANTO VII. 
 
 All hail, most blest and sacred spot, 20 
 On which it was famed Serra s lot, 
 
 Rome s cross to raise ; 
 And on a lonesome, dreary strand, 
 To consecrate, with hallowed hand, 
 
 The Host we praise ! 
 
 For there, his first "Grand Mass " was said, 
 In offering to the great God-head, 
 
 His work to bless, 
 That by God s holy will decreed 
 The Christian conquest might proceed 
 
 With true success. 
 
i 4 4 CALIFORNIA. 
 
 And there it was, he first began 
 To soothe the ways of Pagan man, 
 
 A savage race ; 
 
 Yet ah ! what dangers did he dare 
 Their hearts to tame, so they might share 
 
 The convert s grace. 
 
 What wants, what cares and risks he bore ! 
 An exile to this heathen shore 
 
 Where darkness lay ; 
 With naught to cheer or charm the mind, 
 Nor e en a shelter from the wind, 
 
 To smooth his way. 
 
 And yet, withal, he faltered not, 
 But with a will that s not forgot, 
 
 Urged on his way ; 
 
 By smiles and gifts and friendly bribes, 
 That gained him ground among the tribes 
 
 From day to day. 
 
CALIFORNIA. 145 
 
 Till, by degrees, his station grew, 
 As eager round it, converts drew 
 
 To join his creed ; 
 
 And with it learn, though rudely taught, 
 Such useful arts, as he best thought 
 
 They most did need. 
 
 By which their huts were better framed, 
 Their lands were tilled and flocks were tamed 
 
 O er vale and hill ; 
 And many a fabric yet doth stand 
 A leading wonder in the land 
 
 To prove their skill. 
 
 As time elapsed and years passed o er, 
 At length arose upon the shore 
 
 A little town ; 
 
 Whose modest structures scattered round 
 Were sheltered neath a fortress mound 
 
 Of old renown. 
 
146 CALIFORNIA. 
 
 And one, the most imposing seen, 1 
 Of plain design and humble mien, 
 
 We will portray ; 
 
 For there a wealthy Don did dwell 
 Whose heart, the living town can tell, 
 
 Was kind and gay. 
 
 Where scarce a night, but dance and song 
 The fleeting hours did chase along 
 
 In mirth and glee ; 
 
 When old and young, from far and wide, 
 E er gathered round, on every side, 
 
 The sport to see. 
 
 For always free these pastimes were 
 To rich and poor, who chose to share 
 
 The social call ; 
 
 When gaily dressed, both prompt would hie 
 Each other s grace and charms to vie 
 
 At every ball. 
 
CALIFORNIA. 147 
 
 And there would grace and beauty meet 
 Their nets to spread, some swain to cheat 
 
 Whose heart was bland ; 
 And gaily lead him on to love, 
 As round the hall they brisk did move, 
 
 Joined hand in hand. 
 
 But of the beauty then in town, 
 
 None could compare, we sure must own, 
 
 Throughout the land, 
 
 With that which graced our friend s domain, 
 Whose gentle sweetness e er did gain 
 
 All hearts command. 
 
 And who that now recalls those nights, 
 Those ever-charming, joyous sights, 
 
 The peasants balm, 
 But feels a sadness on his brow, 
 That such delights no longer now 
 
 Are here to charm. 
 
148 CALIFORNIA. 
 
 They have dispersed ! A stranger s sway 
 Such rural treats has swept away 
 
 And left behind 
 
 A blank instead, with naught to please, 
 A gloomy scene, to chill and freeze 
 
 The gaysome mind. 
 
 Two humble dwellings, side by side 22 
 That stood for years the village pride 
 
 Are standing now, 
 In which two gallant sailors dwelt 
 Whose hearts in friendship ever felt 
 
 A kindred glow. 
 
 Like brothers they were bound in love, 
 And in their acts each zealous strove 
 
 His love to vie, 
 
 That bated not, nor even waived 
 Through all the changes they had braved 
 
 Till both did die. 
 
CALIFORNIA. 149 
 
 And as they lived, so since they died 
 They have been neighbors side by side, 
 
 And tenants are 
 
 Within a ruin d church-yard laid 
 Where many a kith and kin have strayed 
 
 To lisp a prayer. 
 
 Two simple slabs, their names impart 
 That tell the day they did depart 
 
 This world s career ; 
 And he who stops to read the fact 
 Will breathe a sigh while in the act, 
 
 And drop a tear. 
 
 Not far beyond, upon a green, 
 A simple structure may be seen, 
 
 With latticed fence, 
 Where lie reposed, those valiant men 
 Who lost their lives within a glen 
 
 Some leagues from hence. 
 
150 CALIFORNIA. 
 
 Poor victims of an oversight 
 
 Which history claims as something bright 
 
 And worthy fame, 
 
 Though here twas deemed a foul defeat, 
 And caused by leaders incomplete, 
 
 Who were to blame. 
 
 At least, tis said by those who know 
 That ere was struck the fatal blow, 
 
 Had order reigned, 
 
 The battle lost, might have been won, 
 And they, the victors, made to run 
 
 The field so stained. 
 
 But let this pass ! Come view the strand 
 On which the Pioneers did land 
 
 In days of yore ; 
 
 That modern progress scarce has changed 
 In aught that then around it ranged 
 
 And cheered the shore. 
 
CALIFORNIA. 151 
 
 A row of wooden shanties stand 
 Upon the margin of the land 
 
 Along the beach ; 
 
 Where here and there, some launch or hulk 
 Makes up the vision seen in bulk, 
 
 Within our reach. 
 
 Twas here the early trader brought 
 The produce he with patience sought 
 
 From mart to mart, 
 That long lay stored with zealous care, 
 Until for home he did prepare. 
 
 With gladsome heart. 
 
 Then truly twas a busy sight 
 
 To see the strand from morn till night 
 
 Alive with cheer ! 
 
 For when a ship was homeward bound, 
 What merry shouts did then resound 
 
 Afar and near ! 
 
152 CALIFORNIA. 
 
 Beyond these sights we thus portray 
 A rustic fort preserves the bay 
 
 Secure and free, 
 
 From outward foes and contraband, 
 That oftentimes disturb the land 
 
 And neighboring sea. 
 
 And so with this the past is told 
 Whose early days and times of gold 
 
 Have had their charm; 
 Yet ere we part we fain would crave 
 The Critic s friendly aid to save 
 
 Our Muse from harm. 
 
NOTES. 
 
 (1) The rivers of Sacramento and San Joaquin, whose twin- 
 like streams, side by side, uniting at their mouths, created 
 Suisun Bay, and passing through the Straits of Carquinez into 
 the magnificent basin of San Pablo formed a copartnership 
 with that of San Francisco, and finally passed out through the 
 Golden Gate into the deep bosom of the Pacific Ocean. It has 
 been said by the early historical writers that the bay of San 
 Francisco originally extended far south over the valley of San 
 Jose toward the Tulares, hence the legend of the aborigines 
 describing a lake of grand dimensions, whose waters escaped 
 through an opening created by some unknown revulsion of 
 nature. 
 
 (2) The writer alludes to that band of holy missionaries, 
 headed by their venerated president, Friar Junipero Serra, 
 who, under the auspices and protection of the Spanish Govern 
 ment, in 1775, commenced their great work of Christianizing 
 and civilizing the numerous tribes of Indians then inhabiting 
 the northern portion of California, that is, from San Diego 
 north at this period a region almost entirely unknown to the 
 civilized world. 
 
 (3) Foreign trade was almost exclusively American, con 
 fined to trading ships from Boston, Mass., principally by the 
 mercantile houses of Bryant & Sturgis and William Apple- 
 ton & Co., who, for twenty years, engrossed the entire trade, 
 with the exception of a few outside adventurers, with an occa 
 sional ship, also, from Lima, and now and then an expedition 
 from the Sandwich Islands. 
 
 (4) General John A. Sutter, a Swiss gentleman, came to 
 this country in 1839, and soon after his arrival, by permission 
 
154 CALIFORNIA. 
 
 of the local authorities at Monterey, he established a trading 
 post not far from the present city of Sacramento, which served 
 as a kind of frontier protection to the newly acquired ranchos 
 of the north, which had suffered much from depredations of 
 the unfriendly Indians. By his activity and good manage 
 ment he drew around him a sufficient force of the friendly 
 natives to enable him to erect his grand stronghold, called 
 Suiter s Fort, which held quite a formidable position at the 
 commencement of the war between Mexico and the United 
 States. At this period he made himself serviceable on many 
 occasions to the United States Government, which was duly 
 acknowledged by the authorities in Washington. 
 
 (5) The war alluded to was the one between Mexico and the 
 United States, which culminated by the acquisition and annex 
 ation of California to the latter, by right of conquest and 
 purchase. 
 
 (6) It was the wide-famed Vigilance Committee, so talked 
 of, pro and con, whose acts, though illegal, were successful in 
 ridding the land of a pest of scoundrels and villains who in 
 fested it and bade defiance to its laws and authorities. 
 
 (7) The residence of Jacob P. Leese, who came to this coun 
 try overland, via New Mexico, and reached Los Angeles De 
 cember, 1833, where he took up his residence for a short time, 
 and then proceeded north to San Francisco, where he married 
 Miss Rosalia Vallejo. After the change of government, in 
 1849, he went to Monterey, since which his family has made 
 that place its permanent home. 
 
 (8) Captain William A. LeidesdorfF came to this country as 
 Master of the schooner Juliana, owned by John Coffin Jones, 
 Esq., a resident of Santa Barbara, and reached here in June, 
 1841. Some time afterward he resigned his commission and 
 took up his residence in San Francisco, where he remained 
 until his death, in 1848. 
 
 (9) William D. M. Howard arrived here in 1839 on board the 
 ship California (Captain Arthur), and soon after, by permis 
 sion, he left the ship at San Pedro and took up his residence 
 
CALIFORNIA. 155 
 
 with Don Abel Stearns, then a merchant in Los Angeles. He 
 went home to the United States, via Mexico, in 1840, and re 
 turned again to this coast in 1842 as assistant supercargo with 
 Captain Arthur on board the ship California, under the patron 
 age of the house of B. T. Read & Co., of Boston. He con 
 tinued to receive occasional consignments for several years 
 from his friends in Boston, making San Francisco his head 
 quarters, when, in 1849, he made a visit East to his native land, 
 where he became sick, and soon returned to California to die 
 iu his princely residence at San Mateo, and was buried in the 
 little stone chapel to which he had so liberally contributed 
 toward its construction. 
 
 (10) William H. Aspinwall, who was the first to introduce 
 steam navigation on the Northern Pacific Coast, having con 
 tracted with the Government at Washington for the trans 
 portation of the U. S. mail across the Isthmus of Panama, 
 thence by water to San Francisco by a line of steamers, the 
 first of which, the California, reached her destination in Feb 
 ruary, 1849. 
 
 (11) Nathan Spear first visited this coast from the Sandwich 
 Islands in 1823, and some years afterward he came to Monterey, 
 where he remained but a short time, and then proceeded to San 
 Francisco, where he located permanently. His place of busi 
 ness was on the corner of Montgomery and Clay streets. 
 
 (12) John Vioget came to this country in 1837 and located in 
 San Francisco, where he kept a billiard and drinking saloon 
 on Clay street, about half way between Montgomery and 
 Kearny streets. He was a surveyor by profession, and laid 
 out the original plan of San Francisco, extending to Market 
 street. He was from one of the old towns in Switzerland, 
 which probably accounts for the narrow and contracted char 
 acter of many of the streets so common here. 
 
 (13) This was the residence of La Seriora Briones, who, in 
 olden times, as a favor did all the washing required by the 
 numerous vessels that visited la Yerba Buena, for which, at 
 that period, the now called North Beach bore the cognomen of 
 " Washerwoman s Bay." 
 
i 5 6 CALIFORNIA. 
 
 (14) This was a patriot vessel-of-war, under command of one 
 Buchard, who, after his departure from Monterey, proceeded 
 southward and anchored off the Refugio Rancho, located about 
 half way between Point Concepcion and the Presidio of Santa 
 Barbara, where a force landed and destroyed almost entirely 
 the little settlement which they found there, and then contin 
 ued on their course south, until they reached La Mission de San 
 Juan Capistrano. Here they disembarked a force which, after 
 ransacking and damaging to some considerable extent, and 
 consuming the wine and little niceties of the old Friars, they re 
 turned to their ship in good time to escape being made prison 
 ers by an armed force, which had been sent up from San 
 Diego to protect the Mission. 
 
 (15) Padre Junipero Serra, President of the Missionary De 
 partment, who died in Monterey and was buried at Carmelo, 
 where, for a long period, the place of his interment was un 
 known. Recently, however, proofs were ascertained of its 
 locality, and means were taken to substantiate the fact by 
 further investigations, which were successful. 
 
 (16) Gen. John C. Fremont came to this country in 1846 as the 
 "Pathfinder, "and his first movement was in favor of declar 
 ing California independent, and took part in what was called 
 the raising of the Bear Flag in Sonoma. He was prominent 
 in many of the subsequent difficulties which occurred here, 
 until at length they subsided from the entire subjection of the 
 country to the American forces. After the declaration of 
 peace and the admission of California into the Union as a 
 State, he and the Hon. William M. Gwin were elected the 
 first representatives to the Government at Washington. In 
 his intercourse with the native Californians he made himself 
 popular, and they would have been glad to have had him 
 successful in his attempt at Sonoma to establish a free and in 
 dependent government. 
 
 (17) Don Jose de la Guerra, an native of Novales, Spain, who 
 came to the City of Mexico, and there entered the service of 
 the Government of Spain as a lieutenant, and came to this 
 country in 1802. He was stationed at Monterey, and afterward 
 
CALIFORNIA. 157 
 
 appointed Comandante of the Presidio at Santa Barbara. 
 Subsequently he was elected to represent California in the 
 Congress of Mexico, to which place he repaired, where he ar 
 rived too late to take his seat, as it had already been taken by 
 his suplente, so he returned and resumed his position as Com 
 andante, which he retained for some years, when he retired 
 to private life. 
 
 (18) The Island of San Nicholas, which, like its neighboring 
 isles, was once populated, until, from frequent disturbances 
 by the hordes of Russian Codiacks, the islanders were induced 
 to abandon their homes and seek protection on the mainland. 
 
 (19) The Mission of San Gabriel that stands in the center of 
 the grand valley of Santa Anita, and the most fertile portion 
 of Los Angeles county. 
 
 (20) The reverend Friar, Junipero Serra, who headed a band 
 of missionaries to this coast in the year 1769, when he com 
 menced his grand work of subjecting and Christianizing the 
 rude Indian race of California. He located his first Mission 
 at this place, afterward increased by a chain of missionary 
 posts, twenty in number, extending to the northern shores of 
 San Pablo Bay, gathering around them a crude population of 
 from fifteen to twenty thousand Indians, which, under the di 
 rection and guidance of their spiritual fathers, were taught 
 the most useful requirements. Some were carpenters, some 
 were blacksmiths, others saddlers and shoemakers, and herd 
 ers of the vast numbers of cattle, which, in course of time, 
 accumulated to hundreds of thousands. The female depart 
 ment was taught spinning and weaviner, and all the necessary 
 requirements of household economy, so that they lived along 
 a life of contentment and ease, with rarely a case of insubord 
 ination. 
 
 (21) Don Juan Bandini, who came to this country from 
 Lima, with his father, who was an Italian by birth, and who 
 had commanded a Spanish ship-of-war in early days. Don 
 Juan, from his urbanity and pleasing manners, was very pop 
 ular, and had always taken an active part in the interests of 
 California, having represented her in the halls of the Monte- 
 
158 
 
 CALIFORNIA. 
 
 zumas. His descendants were numerous, and were celebrated 
 everywhere for their beauty and attractive manners. 
 
 (22) Captain Henry D. Fitch and Joseph Snooks, both were 
 captains of ships plying between this coast and Lima. The 
 former was an American, who came here in early days, a na 
 tive of New Hampshire, and the latter was a European, who 
 had resided many years on the South American coast. 
 
Robinson f 
 
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