Londo7iLo^ UCSB LIBRARY X-'/^scsi:; .:^TJi:jnA]LiPS -=:ri::^==L ^ Balls Alpine Guides STYEIAN, CAENIO AND JULIAN ALPS BY JOHN BALL, F.E.S., M.E.I.A., F.L.S, &c. lATE PRESIDENT OF THE ALPINE CLUB LONDON LONGMANS, GREEN, AND CO, 1873 LIST OF MAPS. Key Maj» .... To he pasted inside the cover at the beginning The Eastebn Alps — General Map .... To face title-page The Terglou District To face page 557 ABBREVIATIONS AND EXPLANATIONS. The following are tlie chief abbrenations used in this work : — hrs., m. — for hours and minutes. When used as a measure of distance, one hour is meant to indicate the distance which a tolerably good walker will traverse in an hour, clear of halts, and having regard to the difficulty of the ground. In cases where there is a considerable difference of height, the measure given is intended as a mean between the time employed in ascending and descending, being greater in the one case and less in the other. ft., yds. — for feet and j'ards. The heights of mountains, &c., are given in English feet above the level of the sea, and are generally indicated in the manner usual in scientific books, by the figures being enclosed in brackets, •with a short stroke. m. — for mile. Unless otherwise expressed, distances are given in English statute miles. rt., 1. — for right and left. The right side of a valley, stream, or glacier, is that lying on the right hand of a person following the downward course of the stream. The points of the compass are indicated in the usual way. Names of places are referred in the Index to the pages where some useful information respecting them is to be found. Throughout this work the reader is frequently referred for further information to the Section and Route where this is to be found. When the reference is made to a passage occurring in the same Section, the Route alone is mentioned. 315 CHAPTER XV. STYRIAN ALPS. Section 53. lesser tauern district, Route A. — Tamsweg to Bruck an der Mnr Route B.— Schladming to Tamsweg— As- cent of the Hoch Gelling . Route C— Grbbining to Murau, by the Sblk Route D. — Irdning in the Ennsthal to Unzmarkt, by the Donners- bafherthal .... Route E.— Lietzen in the Ennsthal to Leo- ben, by the Paltenthal Route P. — Rottenmaun to Judenburg, by the Rottenmanner Tauern . Route G.— Znittelfeld to the Paltenthal, by the Sekkauer Alps Route H. — Leoben to Hieflau, byEisenerz Route I. — Eisenerz toAdmont, by Johns- bach Section 54. mariazell district. Route A.— Bruck an der Mur to Vienna, by railway .... Route B.— Murzzuschlag to Eisenerz, by Mariazell and Hieflau Route C— Vienna to Bruck, by St. Pblteii and Mariazell Route D. — Eisenerz to Bruck, by the Frauenmauerhbhle Route E.— Eisenerz to Bruck. Tour on foot by the Hochschwab . Route F.— Waidhof en on the Ips to Ma- liazell. The Oetscher Eout€ G.— Pechlarn to Mariazell, by the Erlafthal .... 318 326 328 344 353 367 by Route H.— Payerbach to Mariazell. the Hbllenthal . . . 362 Route I.— Wiener Neustadt to Mariazell. The Schneeberg . . .366 Section 55. VALLEY of the NORTHERN GURK. Route A. — Villach to Marburg by railway — Valley of the Drave Route B.— Klagenf art to Bruck an der Mur 374 Route C. — Klagenf iirt to Tamsweg, by Tnrrach. The Eisenhut . Route D.— Gmiind to Friesach, by Tur- rach and Fladnitz Route E.— Priesach to Murau, or Stadl, in the Murthal Route F.— Spittal on the Drave to Friesach, by tlie ilillstadter See, and the Gurkthal Route G.— Villach to Feldkirchen . Route H.— Vblkennarkt to Neumarkt, by Hiittenberg 371 377 381 386 Section 56. lavantthal district. Route A. — Bruck to Marbirrg, by railway 388 Route B. — Marburg to Judenburg, by the Lavantthal . . . 391 Route C— Gratz to Judenburg, by Kbflach 393 Route D.— Gratz to Wolfsberg, by Kbflach 395 Route E. — Gratz to Wolfsberg, by Schwan- berg and the Koralp . . 395 Route F.—Peggau to Knittelfeld, or St. Michael, by Uebelbach . 397 In the last chapter we have described the great central backbone of the Eastern Alps, from the sources of the Adige to those of the Mur, and it has been seen that eastward of that limit it is no longer possible to speak of a single central chain either in a geological or orographic sense. Erom its source at the base of the Markkahrspitz to the town of Bruck the Mur flows for more than 100 miles, in a direction somewhat N. of E., between ranges coneisting of crys- [X] 316 STYRIAN ALPS. talline and metamorphic rocks which diverge from the above-named peak. The region including both these ranges was anciently comprehended within the limits of the Noric Alps, but as that designation was usually held to embrace the whole of the central chain eastward of the Brenner, it is unsuited to the more restricted limits now contemplated. The writer willingly follows the au- thority of Sonklar in adopting for the region described in the present chapter the title ' Styrian Alps ; ' although, for the purposes of the present work, some modification is made in the boundaries fixed by that eminent writer. On the S. side, the valley of the Drave, from Spittal to Marburg, is obviously the natural boundary, as on the N. side is the valley of the Enns from Eadstadt to Hieflau. It is towards the NE. that the limits must be fixed in a some- what arbitrary manner. The geologist would throw the greater part of the country lying between the Enns and the sources of the Leitha into the same main division as the Salzburg Alps de- scribed in Chapter XIII. ; but the oro- graphy of the district in question, which determines the course of the principal roads, does not favour that division, and makes it more expedient to include it within the limits of the Styrian Alps. It is known that at its eastern ex- tremity the Alpine chain subsides very gradually, and some geographers see in the tertiary ranges that extend eastward from near Grratz into Hungary, passing N. of Lake Balaton, and thence NE., by Buda, towards the Northern Carpathians, a connection between two of the great mountain regions of Europe; but for the purposes of tliis work we hold that the Alps cease where the mountains do not rise beyond the limit of coniferous trees. The utmost limit of the Styrian Alps are therefore fixed at the Schnee- berg to the NE., and the eastern bound- ary is traced by the railway from Wiener Neustadt to Marburg. It may be well to remark, that although the boundaries above laid down include a great portion of Styria, they take in parts of the adjoining provinces of the Austrian Empire. The district called Lungau, at the head of the Mur val- ley, partly described in § 62, belongs to Salzburg ; a considerable part of the district lying between the Mur and the Drave appertains to Carinthia ; while the summits of the Oetscher and Schneeberg lie in Lower Austria. Although the district here described is far from being deficient in natural attractions, it is not likely that it will ever be very much resorted to by Eng- lish travellers. The mountaineer, whose conceptions of moimtain beauty are un- satisfied where the background shows no snowy peak, and the inner recesses reveal no more the ethereal blue of the glacier crevasse, must turn his footsteps elsewhere. The traveller of less exclu- sive tastes, who demands the contrast aflforded by bold masses of rock of co- lossal proportions, rising steeply above an Alpine valley, may find several spots that will notdisappointhis expectations ; and the more moderate demands of one whose eye is formed to the scale of petty elevations, such as those of the British Islands, will be more than satis- fied by scenery which unites much variety with many elements of natural beauty. It is just, however, to say that other deficiencies are found in the region here described. If the Englishman travelling in Germany is constantly liable to severe trials of temper from the phlegmatic humour of a people to whose slow apprehension time seems to be absolutely valueless, he must yet re- cognise many amiable qualities that go far to reconcile him to their defects. Speaking generally of the Austrian population, the stranger, of whatever country, finds good-will and a friendly greeting, and not rarely active kindness. This observation does not, however, generally hold good in the valleys of Upper Styria. Speaking a rude dialect, ill understood even by their German neighbours, their manners are coarse, and their temper, except when cheered by incipient drunkenness, is morose. Not over-kindly amongst themselves, LESSER TAUERN DISTRICT. 317 they evidently feel a dislike for strangers, which is sometimes shown even by the village innkeeper, whose trade is supposed to require at least the aiFectation of the contrary feeling. It is scarcely neces- sary to say that these remarks do not apply to persons of education, nor to the landlords of the inns in the chief towns, who may fairly be reckoned in that class. Nowhere in the Eastern Alps does the traveller risk encoTintering the re- pulsive filth of Dauphin e and of some parts of Savoy ; yet in the village inns of Styria he often finds cause for dis- comfort. The common practice, even in inns of the better class, is for four or five travellers to sleep in the same room ; so that he must make it clearly under- stood that he expects to hold undivided possession of his chamber ; and he must look sharp to secure having clean sheets upon his bed. As a general nde, let the traveller in Styria never rely upon any native for doing anything within thrice the time that has been agreed upon. In spite of these drawbacks, the traveller, armed with patience and good humour, may pass some time very pleasantly among the Styrian valleys. A moderate mountaineer may usually count on finding his way without the encumbrance of a guide, and will rarely encounter difl&culties that he cannot easily overcome without assist- ance. There is, to many persons, a pleasure in treading unbeaten tracks, and getting aside from the stream of tourists that annually flows into new channels of the Alpine region; and this taste may long be gratified in the district here described. The na- turalist will feel a lively interest in the Fauna and Flora — intermediate between those of Switzerland and the Carpa- thians — with not a few species peculiar to this region. SECTION 5S. LESSER TAUERN DISTRICT. UxDER a designation not familiar to English readers we include a remarkably well defined district which includes the highest portion of the Styrian Alps. It is that lying between the Enns and the Mur, bounded on the W. by the road over the Kadstadter Tauern (§ 52, Ete. E), and on the E. by the so-called Ei- senstrasse between Hieflau and Leoben. In the absence of any mountain, or cen- tral place, generally known to travellers, the writer has adhered to the name given by many German writers to the range extending from the Eadstadter Tauern to near Leoben. As the name High Tauern is now generally adopted for the much higher chain extending from the Dreihermspitz to the Markkarspitz, the term Lesser Tauern may well be applied to the loftier of the two eastern branches of the main chain, which stiU exhibits, though on a reduced scaJe, somewhat of the stem character of the scenery of the higher range. The true eastern limit of the Lesser Tauern range is doubtless to be found in the deep transverse vaUey of the Pal- ten and Liesing, connecting Leoben with I the Enns at Lietzen. In the triangle lying between that valley, the Enns, and the Eisenstrasse, is the small but very interesting group of the Johnsbacher Alps, intermediate in geological struc- rure, as in position, between the Lesser Tauern and the district described in the next §, but on grounds of convenience best included in the present district. The most interesting valleys of this district are, with few exceptions, best visited from the Ennsthal, where good quarters are found at Schladming, Lie- tzen, Admont, and Hieflau. Johnsbach, which may become a favourite haunt of travellers, is, as yet, ill provided with accommodation. Tamsweg in Lungau is a good station for several excursions, but the other chief places on the Mur are rather distant from the higher sum- mits. 318 STYRIAN ALPS. §53. LESSER TAUERN DISTRICT. In the main range of t1ie Lesser Taucrn gneiss and mica schist are the prevailing rocks, but metamorphic slates, traverses the head of the Mttr valley, entering it on the N. side by the Kad- stadter Tauem, and quitting it by the probably ofpalfeozoic age, appear in many i Katschberg S. of St. Michael. For a places. In the Johnsbacher Alps the [ distance of nearly 30 m. from its source, latter strata are surmounted by the trias, and the higher summits are formed of limestone (referred by some geologists to the infra-lias), probably of the same age as the higher peaks of the Dachstein group. The most prominent peaks in the main range are the Hoch Gelling (9,383'), the Predigtstuhl (8,834'), and the Bosenstein (8.01 S'). In the Johns- bacher group the Hoch Thor (7,478') is the highest summit. KouTii A. T^MSWEG TO BBUCK AX DER MI'R. Post- Englisli stiinden miles Predlitz . 4 ^h Mnrau . . 5 ]1| Unzmarkt . 7 16i Jndenburg . . 6 14 Knittelfeld . . 4 9i Kraubath . . 4 9i Leoben . . ^ Hi Brnck an der ilur . 4 9h 383 9U Carriage-road from Tamsweg to Unzmarkt. Railway recently opened from Brack to the latter place, and thence by St. Veit to Villach, with a branch to Klagenfurt. It has been seen in § 52, Rto. K. that the high-road from Salzbui'g to Villach ! the Prebergraben ; turning northward the Mur and its tributary glens form a separate district, called i/wn^aw, belong- ing to the Salzburg territory. The chief place of this district is Tamsweg (3,108'), a pretty litde town (Inns : Post ; Platz-Brau), with a very fine mediaeval church of St. Leonhard, standing on an eminence 400 ft. in height. The traveller who enters the Murthal from Spittal on the Drave, or by the mountain passes at the head of theZederhauswinkel orMurwinkel (§ 52, Rte. I), will reach Tamsweg by the road from St. Michael, about 10 m. distant. Those who enter the valley by the Eadstadter Tauem need not pass by St. jMichael, as there is a road leading from Mauterndorf direct to Tamsweg, a distance of about 9 m. Mountaineers planning excursions from Tamsweg may with advantage con- sult Dr. Hatheyer, a physician well ac- quainted with the neighbouring valleys. The district of Lungau, whose popu- lation from an early period has kept it- self much apart from its Styrian neigh- bours, has an inclementclimate, andbut little of the mineral wealth that enriches the adjoining valleys of Styria. The almost universal use of palings for fences and the prevalence of the mountain-ash, whose bright-red fruit adorns the road- sides in autumn, are characteristic fea- tures in the scenery of the lower valleys of Lungau. The population appear dull and morose, and their personal habits are dirty in the extreme. The most in- teresting excursions from Tamsweg through the chief tributary valleys of the Mur are noticed in Rte. B. One ex- cursion, which is of special interest to the naturalist, and also offers the attrac- tion of a fine view, is the ascent of the Prcherspitz (8,977'), a detached summit lying SSE. of the Hoch Golling, and very much easier of access. The way is NE. from Tamsweg to the opening of ROUTE A. — LUNG ALT. 319 through whi.ih a road, practicable for light vehicle'^, goes as far as the Prcber See (4,897'), about 3hrs.fromTams»-eg. A foot-path cutting off the angle at the opening of the Prebergraben saves some time. Those who wish to reach the summit early sleep at the Prodinger- hiitte, \ hr. above the lake. The ascent from that point is moderately steep, but free from all real difficulty. 3 hrs. more — or 6 hrs. from Tamsweg — are required to reach the summit, which may be at- tained in less time by 2 hrs. from Les- sach (Rte. B). The botanist, not al- ready familiar with the Flora of the Styrian Alps, will be interested in find- ing here Valeriana celtica, Campanula alpina, and Primula mini/na, which are characteristic species of the higher sum- mits in the ranges N. and S. of the Mur, and besides these and other local species, will gather Aira suhspicata near the summit, and Swertia pcrennis by the lake. The valley of the Mur, for a distance of 25 m. E. of Tamsweg, presents to the physical geographer some singular features. A broad depression, which appears to be the ancient valley, whose origin is connected with that of the main ranges on either side, extends due E. of the town. The Mur, instead of follow- ing what must be called the natural course, flows southward through a com- paratively narrow cleft, till, about 5 m. from Tamsweg, it t\irns eastward through an equally narrow and sinuous valley parallel to the main depres- sion, from which it is separated by a ridge of some height, broken through at intervals by gaps, tlirough which the chief torrents from the valleys on the N. side flow towards the main stream. Several large villages and smaller places stand on the N. side of the ridge that borders the 1. bank of the Mur, in what we here call the main ancient valley of the Styrian Alps, and a rather hilly road runs in that direction from Tams- weg, passing Atzmannsdorf, Seebach, St. Peter, and Ober-Wolz ; s(^ that it is not necessary to rejoin the Mur until a point a few miles above Unzmarkt, more than 30 m. by road from Tamsweg. Following the southward course of the Mur, the main road, about 5 m. from Tamsweg, reaches Ramingstein (2,945'), with a fair inn (bei Miihlhau- ser). Three tributary glens pour their torrents into the Mur near this village. A little above it is the opening of the Thomathal, which mounts gently due W. for 2 hrs., until it approaches within a short distance of the Mur, and then turns abruptly to the S., assiiming the name Bundschuhthal. By that way a traveller may go nearly in a straight line from Eamingstein to St. Michael, avoiding Tamsweg. At the head of the Bundschuhthal (where the botanist may gather BiUda nana), a track leads over the dividing ridge to Kremsbruck in Carinthia. A little below Ramingstein is the opening of the Mieslitz-Graben, a short glen originating at the N. side of the Schilchirhbhe (7,055'). This summit is sometimes ascended for the sake of its fine panoramic ^•iew, and re- wards the botanist with many of the rare plants of this district. It may also be reached from the Bundschuhthal, or from the Hiiiteralpenthal — a third glen, which remains to be noticed. This joins the Murthal about 1 hr. below Ramingstein, at Kendelbruck, the last village in Lungau, with an inn kept by Plank, a civil and friendly host. The ironworks at this place derive the ore from the Hinteralpenthal, which origi- nates on the E. side of the Schilcher- hohe. The ridge on the E. side, along which runs the boundary between Salz- burg and St}Tna, divides the Hinter- alpenthal from theTurrach G-raben(§ 65, Rte. C). About a mile below Kendelbruck, the Mur, which since Ramingstein has re- sumed its easterly direction, reaches the frontier of Salzburg, and immediately the road passes opposite Prec^^tY^ (2,818'), the first place in Styria, standing at the junction of the Turrach. A few miles farther is Stadl, at the opening of a wider glen to which it gives its name, which drains the N. side of the Eisen- 890 STYRTAN ALPS. § 53. LESSER TAUERN DISTRICT. hut range, ami a considerable portion of theFladnitzer Alps(§ oS.Eto. D). The road, now keeping to the 1. bank of the Mur, passes several villages before reaching the small town of Murait (2,6 1 2'), at the junction of the Eantenbach (Rte. C), which flows from WNW. after uniting the torrents from several Alpine glens in the range of the Lesser Tauern. . Three old churches here deserve a visit, especially that of St. Anna, which has a rich carved and gilt altar, some old stained glass, and a curious picture, attributed to Israel of Mechlin. The castle of Ober-Murau, over the town, commanding a fine view, is the residence of the director of the important iron and steel works, from which Prince Schwarzenberg derives a portion of his vast revenues. The most important are at this place, at Turrach, and at Stadl. Opposite the junction of the Eantenbach is that of the Lasnitzthal (§ 55, Ete. E). After passing Triebendorf, to which an un- authorised tradition refers the place of Seneca's banishment in the Noric Alps, the road returns to the rt. bank of the Mur, and soon passes opposite the junc- tion of the Katschthal, through which an old road mounts to St. Peter {RtQ. C). A few miles farther the road from St. Lambrecht (§ 55, Ete. E), descends from the S. side through the Taja Graben to reach the Miir valley. Henceforward, for about 7 m., the road and the river follow a NE. course. Amongr several old castles that are seen in this part of the valley, that of Sehrattcnberg is memorable as having afforded, in 1797, head-quarters to Napoleon Buonaparte, and two years later to Suwarow. Nearly opposite is the opening of the Wolzer- thal, through which the road and the torrent from Ober-Wolz (Ete. D) reach the Mur. At Scheifling, which, like nearly all the villages of this valley, resounds with the din of iron-forges, tlie far more important post-road from Klagenfurt to Vienna (§ 55, Rte. B), enters the valley of the Mur, and is henceforth followed by the traveller bound for Bruck. The next place is I Unzmarkt (2,410'), a large village I with a fair inn (Hirsch). Here the ; traveller joins the Eudolfsbahn— the j important railway destined to connect I the iron district of Upper Styria with Lombardy and Trieste — and may follow the Mur to Bruck, or turn southward towards Carinthia. On the opposite side of the river the very ancient castle of Frauenburg rises above the forest that covers the slope of the valley. The scenery is throughout picturesque and pleasing, though it can make no pre- tensions to grandeur. About 1 m. be- yond Unzmarkt the valley resumes its I primitive direction, and gradually opens j out into the broad and fertile tract i locally called Eichsfeld, which extends eastward beyond Knittelfeld. About 8 m. from Unzmarkt the road passes op- posite a deep gap in the hills that bound the 1. bank of the Mur, over which passes the road leading to the Eottenmanner Tauern (Rte.F). As the valley expands, the traveller will observe the develop- ment of wide alluvial terraces on either side, through which the Mur has cut a deep channel. After a rather long as- cent the road gains the level of a terrace on the rt. bank, over which it passes for 2 m. before reaching Judenhurg (Inns : Post, bei Eeisig ; Blaue Adler; and several others; the first is the best), an ancient town, once of commercial importance, and still the chief place in this part of the valley of the Mur. A portion of the an- cient walli^ and some old houses still remain ; but a great fire in 1807, and another less considerable in 1840, de- stroyed a great part of the earlier build- ings. The alluvial terrace on which the chief buildings stand, 2,425 ft. above the sea, is cut away on one side by the Miir, on the other by a stream issuing from a short glen to the S,, and the main street descends steeply some 200 ft., and finally reaches the bridge over the Mur where great iron-works use the current for motive power. The tradi- tion which attributes the name of the town to the massacre of its Je^^nsh in- habitants by their Christian fellow- ROUTE A. LEOBEX. 321 to"vrnsmen at Christmns 1312, does not appear to be supported by any reliable testimony. In this neighboiirhood the botanist will observe Geranium 'pratens'\ Scahiosa ochroleuca, and other plants of Germanic type not often seen in the Alps. The group of the Seethaler or Judenburger Alps, extending SSW. from the town, are most conveniently visited from Xeuraarkt or Obdach ; but the Wejizelafj) (7,023'), the northernmost ! summit of the range, may be ascended ' through the short glen that extends , hence to the foot of the mountain. A ' fine view over the EichsfdJ, where the > Mur flows through a broad A-alley teem- i ins; with populous villages, is gained ' from the Kalvarienberg near the town. | Close at hand is the ancient castle ' of Lichtenstein, that has given its name | to the powerful princely family, which, I besides hereditary dominion on the Swiss I frontier, owns no less than 72 other strongholds in the Austrian states. The road to Weisskirchen and the Lavanthal is described in § 56, Rte, B. The post- road to Bruck crosses the bridge over the Mur, and then ascends to cross the ; alluvial terrace that here forms a long ' narrow promontory between the Mur \ and the Pols. The stranger ■nill re- | mark that most of the iron- works in this district are carried on fur the benefit of the proprietors, either noblemen of an- ! cient family, or manufacturers who have purchased the soil along with the works. ' One of the largest establishments is that ; of Zeltv:cg, important enough to have a separate rly. station. It belongs to ■ Count Henkel, a Prussian nobleman i who has large estates in Styria, and is I not surpassed in extent by many simi- lar works in England. About -i m. farther is Knittelfeld (2,115'), a small towri with a tolerable inn at the Post, wliere the diligence stops for refreshments. It stands at the junction of the Ingering- bach with the Mur. A little farther on a } road turns NW. to S-kkau (Rte. Gr), near \ the rly. station of St. Loren::c7i. Here ' the Mur bends to ENE., and the valley narrows between gently sloping moun- s. c, J, y tains, of which those above the rt. bank belong to the group of the Glein Alps, and those on the opposite side are out- liers from the Sekkauer Alps, forming the eastern extremity of the range of the Lesser Tauern. The village and post-station of Krav.hath (2,010') is prettily situated, and the scenery is of the gentle and pleasing order. On ser- pentine rocks near at hand the botanist may gather Sempervvmra Fittonii. About 6 m. farther, at St. Michael rly. station, is the junction of the Liesing- thal with the valley of the Mur (see Rte. E), where the range of the Lesser Tauern comes to an end in the xevy acute angle formed by those valleys. The main valley widens out below the junction, and there is something stately in the approach to the very pretty town of Leohen (Inns : Strauss, Weinkindler's, old-fastioned but good, Adler, Mohr), 1,881 ft. above the sea. Though the population is small, the style of the buildings, and the general air of the place, are worthy of a provincial capi- tal. It has a theatre, Rathhaus, and various public buildings, a fine old church called Maria Waasen, and a new one, finished in 1856, worth visit- ing for its picturesque position near the river, which encompasses the town on three sides. The botanist may find Artemisia pontica on rocks near the town. In the ancient Benedictine mo- nastery of Gross, which -served as his head-quarters. Napoleon Buonaparte took the first step to the betrayal of Venice, by drawing up the prelimi- naries of the peace that was soon after- wards signed at Campo-Formio. The Eisenstrasse, leading from the Enns- thal through Eisenerz to the Mur, en- ters the latter valley close to the town, and long trains of waggons laden with ironware are constantly moving towards the rly. station. The line to Bruck keeps mainly along the rt. bank oi the Mur. The valley is here naiTow, and resumes somewhat of its Alpine charac- ter, which it had lost in approaching Leoben. At o22 STVniAN ALPS. LESSER TAUERN DISTRICT. Bruck an dcr Mur (1,. ^25'), described in § 54, Rte.A, the traveller who wishes to halt finds comfortable quarters at the Kailway Station. EorTE B. SCHLADMING TO TAMSWEG ASCENT OF THE HOCH GOIXING. The highest part of the range of the Lesser Taueni is that lying near the boundary between Salzburg and Styria. Here rises the Hoch GoUing (9,383'), the highest Bummit of this range, and the valleys that descend on the one hand towards the Ems, on the other to- wards the Mur, are more thoroughly Alpine in character than any others in this district. Hence it follows, that the mountaineer approaching the Mur val- ley from the N., will prefer to the car- riage road over the Eadstadter Tauern one or other of the passes leading to Tainsweg from Schladming. We briefly notice the chief valleys that may be visited ou the way. 1. By the Unter Schladmijigthal and Lcssachu'inkcl. The way to Tamsweg by the Waldhornthorl, which is con- sidered the easiest pass, is a long day's walk from Schladming — counted 14 hrs. (rather slow walking?). By enquiry- at the good inn (Post) at Schladming, the traveller may hear of Johann Bach- ler, or Mathias Lechner, who are the best guides for this part of the range. The shooting of the Unter-Schladming- thal belongs to a resident gentleman, Herr v. Vernouillier, wlio has two shoot- ing-lodges in the valley ; and a traveller wishing to make the ascent of the Hoch Golling, or the Hoehwildstelle, should ask permission to pass the night at one or other of. them. The opening of the Schladmingthal is very similar to that of most of the valleys that descend from the High Tauern chain towards the Salza — a narrow ravine through which the tor- rent rushes down a steep slope in rapids and cataracts. In about | hr. from the village the traveller has left this cleft behind, him, and, after ascending about 400 ft. above the Ennsthal, r*>aches the house of the Bruckerwirth, above which two considerable torrents from the Ober- and Unter-Schladmingthal unite their waters. The former glen is noticed below ; the latter, which offers the more interesting scenerj', will be preferred by most travellers. The path through the Unter- Srhladmingthal does not at first follow the floor of the valley, l>ut is carried at a height of about 200 ft. along the slope on the W. side. At intervals some of the peaks of the Dachstein group come into view, and present a striking contrast to the nearer summits, in which gneiss and mica schist are the prevailing rocks. About 1 hr. from the partition of the valley is a large farm-house — beim Detter (3,391') — standing just beluw a barrier of gravel and debris that stretches across the valley, and partly dams the course of the stream. The ascent is now very gentle for about 1 hr., and, after passing the Weisswand Alp, where good beer is sold to passing travel- lers, we reach the second fork of the valley, where it divides into two Alpine glens, either of which aiFords a pas- sage across tlie main chain. Leaving to the rt. the Steinriesenthal, which mounts to the very base of the Hoch ROUTE B. SCHLADilING TO TAMSWEG. 323 Golling, a path to the 1. is taken by which to mount to the liksachthal. This is the easternmost and longest branch, •whose floor is much higher than that of the main valley, so that the toiTent in descending furms a fine waterfall. The EiemchfalU declared by Professor Simony to be one of the most picturesque in the Austrian Alps, is approached by a good path, which involves a very little detour. A short distance above the waterfall the traveller attains the level of the upper valley, and soon reaches the Bicsax^h See (4,444:'), a pretty Alpine lake, beside which is a comfortable shooting-lodge of Herr v. Vernouilher. Those who would ascend the Hochwildstelie may either sleep here (with permission from the owner;, or push on 2 hrs. farther to the hiitten of the Waldhorn Alp. The Hochwild- stelie (8,998') appears to be the second in height of the summits of the Lesser Tauern. It is neai-ly as precipitous as the Hoch GoUing, and, as snow lies in steep couloirs, may recjuire the aid of rope and ice-axe. The -view is in one respect superior to that from the higher peak, as this overlooks a long reach of the Ennsthal, which contrasts finely with the bold range of the Dachstein rising behind it. The scenery of the interior valleys of this part of the range is of a ver}' wild and somewhat savage character. They divide into numerous short branches, mere recesses in the mountains, in each of which a small tarn is usually found, while peaks of dark and menacing aspect rise above them with extreme steepness. The general effect more resembles that of the valleys of the Northern Carpathians than any scenery familiar to the travel- ler in Switzerland or Tyrol. The Eiesachthal mounts SE. for some distance from the lake till, after approaching the SW. base of the Wild- stelle, the glen turns to the rt, and the path ascends in succession two high steps (Thalstufe) before reaching the upper end, where two small lakes, Ka- puziner Seen (6,990'), lie immediately below the ridge di%-iding the Ennsthal from Lungau. The path, which is rather frequented in summer, passes between the lakes, and mounts the ridge to the Waldhornthdrl (7,437'), the lowest pass over this part of the Tauern range. On the S. side this overlooks a group of three tarns, called ZwcrcJien- herg Secii, h'iug in a hollow a little on one side of the head of the J^ssach- Vj'mkel or Lessachthal. not to be con- founded with the Lessachthal (§ 62, Rte. A). A steep descent leads down to the head of the main branch of this glen. Another short branch diverges from the peak of the Hoch GroUing, which rises with extreme steepness, and is said to be now inaccessible from this side. The Lessachwinkel descends due S., towards Tamsweg, where it poiirs its torrent into the ZMur. About 2 hrs. distant from that place is the village oi Lcssach, wherL- the traveller who has come in one day from Schladming may be glad to find night-quarters. The parish-priest, Herr Kurz, is well ac- quainted with the mountains, and may be consulted with advantage by anyone planning excursions in this neighbour- hood. Although the ridges enclosing the valleys of this district are steep, they are passable, -n-ith more or less difli- culty, in most directions, -.ma very pleasant excursions may be made, keep- ing along or near to the crests uf the ridges surrounding the Eiesachthal. Thus, one may go, ^vith a good local guide, from the E. side of the Hoch Golling to the Waldhornthorl, and from the latter farther eastward, descending into the valley of the Kleiu Solk, Ete. C. 2. By the Gollingscharte, and the Gbriachv:inkel. This way from Schlad- ming to Tamsweg is rather shorter, but rougher and steeper, than that above described. Sleeping at the highest hiitten on either side of the pass, the traveller may ascend the Hoch Golling on the way between those places. The upper end of the Unter-Sohlatlmingthal, above the junction of tlie Eiesachthal, is called Steinriescnthal, and well deserves that name, as it is in great part ocou- T2 624 STVIUAN ALPS. ^6. LESSER TAUERN DISTRICT. pied Vjy debris fallpn from the surround- ing heights, which invades the Alpine pastures, and the slopes once covered with pine forest. After surmounting a first step in the ascent, the traveller for the first time gains a near view of the poak of the Hoch Golling (9,383'). It is a rugged mass of dark rock, rifted with snow, rising almost vertically above the head of the valley, but to- wards the summit sloping (though very steeply), so as to form a pyramidal peak. The valley mounts towaids the base of the peak in a series of lofty steps, each of which is occupied by a small Alp, Having passed in suc- cession the Stegerhiitte (4,717'), and the Ober-Eibelalp, the extreme head of the valley is reached at the Oher-Steinwdii- deralp (5,564'). Beside the hut of the herdsman is a small cottage belonging to Herr v. Vernouillier, and intended to afford shelter to his keepers. Here may be found good shelter for the night, though there is no space to spare. A moderately steep, continuous ascent from the Alp leads up to the Golling- scharte (7,586'), a depression in the ridge on the "W. side, but close to the peak. From the summit the traveller on one side looks back on the head of the Steinriesenthal, and on the other down a steep snow-slope that extends to the head (;f the Gbriachwinkel, one of the lateral valleys of Lungau. The traveller who has started early from the Steinwander- alp may make the ascent of the Hoch Golling from the summit of the pass, and have ample time to reach Tamsweg ou the same evening. Though the ap- pearance of the peak is forbiddingly steep, it is not very difficult to any one used to crag-climbing, l^ut should not be attempted by those in the least liable to giddiness. The way lies at first along the slope that descends towards the Goriachwinkel, but before long begins to mount in a tolerably direct course towards the sxunmit. Here and there a notch cut into the rock, at the in- stance of the Archduke John, who made t'ne ascent in 1817, is found useful. The highest peak is a narrow ridge of shat- tered rock, whereo'n a sort of shed ha9 l')een constructed of loose stones, covered by a few boards, which affords partial shelter from rain or wind to two or three persons at a time. The view is very- extensive, including in the panorama the chief summits of the Eastern Alps, but it shows but little of the valleys, even of those nearest to the mountain, excepting the Groriachwinkel and the Lessachthal. In descenc*ng, care is re- quisite, as the slope is steep (50° accord- ing to Prof. Simony), but there is usually good hold for feet and hands. It is no^ necessary to return to the summit of the pass, as the descent may be effected directly to the head of the Gormch- whikel. Soon after quitting the course leading from the Gollingscharte, the tra- veller passes through a singularly wild scene on a part of the mountain where the rocks are rifted into the boldest and strangest forms, and huge fragments en- cumber the intermediate space. Below this the descent lies for 1 hr, (2 hrs, as- cending") over a moderately steep slope, in a SW. direction, to the Zfiriglhutten. These lie in a recess at the head of the Gorlachwinkel, and are sought as afford- ing shelter for the night by those ascend- ing the mountain from Lungau, About half-way, in descending the valley, are the hamlets of Hinter Goriach, and Vor- der Goriach, lying near together. About 4 hrs. from the Zgriglhiitten is St. Andrd, where th*^* Goriach torrent joins the Tau- rach, and presently after their united waters are poured into the Mur nearly at the same point as the Lessach. In 5^ hrs. from the Gollingscharte the tra- veller may reach Tamsweg. 3. Bf/ the Oher-Schladmingthal. It has been already seen that this valley unites its torrent with that of Unter- SchUdming abovit J hr. from the point where both enter the Enns. This branch of the valley has attractions fur the mineralogist, as it produces various ores of cobalt, bismuth, nickel, associated with other metals. The shafts, but one of which is now worked, are at a high level, and not very easy of access. Though the scenery is not equal to that of the ROUTE B. WEISSBRIACHWINKKL. 01^5 Dnter-Schladmingthal, it has much the same general character. Numerous tarns, some uf rather large size, lie in recesses jn either side of the main valley. Through one of these short lateral giens, called Iseualpcnthal, lies a path to Tamsweg over the Liegnitzscloarte, a pass overlook- ing the head of the Liegnitzthal. This is one of the four nearly parallel Alpine glens that descend into the valley of the Mur between the Eadstadter Tauern road and the frontier of St\-ria. A path, said to be difficult, and even dangerous, goes eastward by the Gramsriuue from the head of this valley to that of Go- riach. It is said that there is another path direct from the head of the Ober- Schladraingtlial to the Goriachwinkel , but of this the writer has no authentic information. 4. B;^ the Prmneggthd and Weiss- briachwijikcL It has been seen in the preceding pages, that the three upper branches of the Sehladmingthal, all approached from the Ennsthal through the same narrow gorge, lead to three di fife rent lateral valleys of Lungau — Lessach, Groriach, and Liegnitz — through each of which the traveller may, without any great detour, reach Tamsweg, There is another more cir- cuitous way, through two vaUeys, which rarely see the passage of a stranger, and which have not very much of interest, as compared with those above-men- tioned, except to the geologist, who will here be enabled to trace the eastern limit of the zone of triassic rocks that extend on the S. side of the Salza and the Enns, along the X. border of the main chain, through the valleys of Kauris, Gastein, Grossarl, Kleinarl, and actimUy cross the chain and descend into Lungau on either side of the Radstadter Tauern. About m. W. of Schladming, at the hamlet of Pichl, is the op^-ning of the Preuneggtkal, through which lies Lhe way t« Lujigau here noticed. Near the opening are abandoned smelting- houses, connected with a mine, from which copper, with small qimntities of gold and silver, were formerly extracted. The entrance of the glen is a narrow cleft, and the path winds up the steep slope above it by the W. side, and finally reaches the upper level of the Preuneggthal in 1 lir. from Pichl. The valley is well wooded, with open patches of meadow and scattered farm-houses. The chief object of interest is theKalks- pitz (7,499'), a bold Deak of triassic limestone rising above the head of the valley. The forest, composed mainly of pine, with scattered clumps of Pinus Cerabra, extends nearly to the head of the valley. This, at its upper end, opens into a broad basin of Alpine pas- I ture — the Ursprimgalp — with several sennhiitten, in some of which very fair quarters for the night may be found. As above mentioned, this valley, and I that of AVeissbriach, which is reached I by an easy pass from the Ursprxmgalp, j nearly coincide with the eastern limit i of the trias. \ [To trace this in detail, it would pro- ! bably be expedient to traverse a pass I east of the Ursprungalp, which leads to one of the lateral branches of the Ober-Schladmingthal, in which lie two I lakes. The lower of these, called Unter- GigJar-ksee, is one of the largest in this neighbourhood, being nearly 2 m. in 1 length. By that way the traveller may j return to Schladming, or reaeh Tams- I weg by one or other of the passes abeady described.] The Weissbriachtvinkcl is nearly pa- 1 rallel to the other tributary valleys of the Mur above-mentioned, but bears more nearly SE., as does the next ad- joining glen OR the W. side through which the post-road from Tweng de- scends to Mauterndorf. If bound for Tamsweg, the traveller should take the path by the 1. bank of the Weissbriach, which will lead him to the road about half-way between Mauterndorf and Tamsweg, [The Weissbriachwinkel divides, near its upper end, into two branches, and the pedestrian going from Tams- weg to Eadstadt may follow the AV. branch, and so reach the Eadstadter Tauern road near the summit of the pass (§ 52, Ete, E). It is also pos- S'2G STYRIAN ALPS. § 53. LESSER TAUEEN DLSTRICT sible to reach the valley of the Enns on the S. side of the defile of Handling (§ 47, Ete. A), through the Forstau glen, which enters the main valley about 5 m. E. of Eadstadt. Forstau belongs to Salzburg, as the boundary between that province and Styria runs southward from the Enns along the ridge dividing this from the adjoining glen of Preunegg, then turning east- ward, and following the main range of the Lesser Tauern, as far as the sum- mits that enclose the head of the Les- sachwinkel.] EOUTE C. GEOBMIXG TO MUBAU, BY THE SOLK. It has been seen in the last Ete. that a considerable portion of the main range of the Lesser Tauern is drained by three valleys that unite their waters in the Schladmingbach, corresponding to which, on the E. side, three indepen- dent, nearly parallel, valleys descend towards the Mur. In a similar manner a still larger tract on the N. side of the chain is drained through live Alpine glens which unite in one main valley called Solkthal, or, more commonly. Die Solk\ whose torrent enters the Ennsthal below Grobming. Though there is Imt one frequented pass leading this wav from the Enns to the Mur, several others may be found by a moun- taineer wiishing to explore the recesses of this part of the range. The scenery appears to be of a wilder character than that of the district lying farther E., and there are many summits in this part of the range much surpassing 8,000 ft. in height. The sennhutten of the Solk are said to be unusually clean and comfortable, and the people to be superior to those of Lungau. Grobming (§ 47, Ete. A) stands on a height above the 1. bant of the Enns, so that time is lost in crossing the valley, in order to reach the oppning of the Solkthal. A trfiveller appro-acliing from the side of Si.'hladming should quit the high-road at Aich, where it crosses the Enns, and follow the track by the rt. bank. A i-ough road mounts to the village of Gross-SUk, by the E. side of the Solkbach, but a steep foot- path is shorter by nearly | hr. The village has a line church, an old castle,, and an inn, a large grim b>ai]dinj: of considerable antiquity. al>out which lo- cal tradition tells some tragical tales. Erom Grof^s-Solk the traveller may make in 5 hrs. the ascent of the Gum- jpeneck (7,292'), a green pointed summit rising to SE., which commands an ad- mirable view, highly spoken of by the few travellers who have visited this valley. A short way above the village the valley divides into two main branches — Klein-Solk and Gross-Solk. The most direct way to the valley of the Mur is through the latter. A track, passable for country carts, is carried up it for a considerable distance. In 2 hrs. this reaches a e<5untry inn, '/» (ler Oed' and in another hotir the hamlet of Mossna. Here the valley again di- vides. Through the E. branch the traveller may find his way across the main range, through one of the tributary glens of the Wolzerthal, to Ober-AVolz (Ete. D). Eollowing the main branch of the valley nearly due S., the track leads, in 1 hr. from Mossna, to the village of St. Nicolai, the chifef place in the upper valley. A frequented bridle- ROUTE C. — THE SOLK« 327 track mounts thence in 2 hrs. to the Sblkerschorte (5,767'), one of the easiest and lowest passes in the range of the Lesser Tauern, 6 hrs. from Solk. From the pass the path descends a little E. of S., through one of the chief branches of the Katschthal. The tor- rent from this glen, uniting with those of two other parallel glens, fiows about due E. to St. Peter (2,85 1'j, and then turns ESE. to join the Mur between Murau and Unzmarkt. The road, which for some distance follows the Katschbach, does not, however, keep along that stream to its junction with the Mur, but passes eastward from St. Peter, crossing the low ridge that di- vides the Katschthal from the Wolzer- thal, to Ohcr-Wolz (Rte. D), whence a good road descends through that valley to the Mur, nearly opposite the point where the post-road from Klagenfurt enters the Xurthal. The shortest way from Gross-Solk to Murau does not, however, pass by St. Peter. On reach- ing the road at the village of Schodcr (2,937')) 'which has a picturesque me- diaeval church, the coxirse lies at first S., and then SW., across the low ridge that divides the upper part of the Katschthal from the Rimtinthal, and reaches the latter at the village of Ban- ten (3,1-i-i'). From that place, where the traveller may probably find a country carriage, a road follows the course of the Rantenbach to Murau (Rte. A), about 6 m. distant. From the village of Solk to Schoder is count^-d 9 hrs., exclusive of halts : about 4 hrs. more, on foot, are required to reach Murau. The soenery of Klein-Solk is decidedly superior to that of the other branch of the valley. It divides into several branches, from which at least two paths lead across the main range to the upper part of the Rantenthal ; but it is a more circuitous way to the Murthal, and the traveller should arrange to sleep at one of the clean sen7ihutten in the upper part of the valley. Starting from Gross-Solk it is necessary to de- scend, and then reascend by a steep path, in order to cross the main stream and gain the slope above the 1. bank of the Klein-Solk torrent. In little more than 1 hr. from the former village he reaches Wald, the chief place in Klein-Solk, with a church containing one or two good pictures, and an inn. For 2 hours the path ascends gently amid very pleasing scener}-, till it enters a gorge between the base of the Kes- selberg on the AY. side, and the fine peak of the Knallstein (8,511') to the E. Here Klein-Solk divides into two branches — locally known as Oberthal and Unterthal — the former being the western, the latter the eastern division of the valley. The ridge dividing them culminates at its S. end, where it joins the main range of the Lesser Tauern, in the Fredigtstuhl (8,834'). Other measures give a greater residt, and it is certainly one of the highest summits of this district. Numeroiis small lakes lie in the upper recesses of this valley, and of these the Sckwarzensee is said to be especially picturesque. It is impossible to reconcile the brief notices which the writer has obtained in regard to the upper branches of the Klein-Solk with each other, or with the best maps. The roost frequented way to the valley of the Mur is by the Neualpinscharte, a pass lying at the head of the Neualpenthal ; but there is another way, probably offering bolder scenery, that crosses the main range closer to the Predigt- stuhl. On the S. side these passes lead to the Krakauthal, which is the upper- most XW. branch of the Rantenthal. From the Putzenthal, which is the highest SW. branch of the Oberthal, a fine pass leads over the ridge dividing this from the Lessachthal, passing near the Lansitzer Seen, a group of Alpine tarns whose drainage runs to the latter valley ; and by that way the traveller may reach Tamsweg from the lower Ennsthal in less time than by Schlad- ming. The Oberthal is sometimes called Lassachthal, and care must be taken not to confound this with the Lessachthal on the opposite side of the main range. The very rare Saxifraga hieraciifolia has been foimd somewhere 328 STVRIAN ALPS. § 53. LESSER TAUEKN DISTRICT. on the rocks above the head of the Putzenthal. EOUTE D. lEDXIXG IN- THE EXySTHAT. TO UN-ZMAEKT, BY THE DOX>rEESBACHERTHAL. Schaubach, Euthner, Schleicher, and other authors who have described in detail the Styrian Alps, are almost com- pletely silent respecting the portion of the lesser Tauern ransre, lying between the Bbsensteiii (Ete. E), and the Pre- digtstuhl, mentioned in the last Ete., and the present writer is unable to supply the deficiency by personal ob- servation. This pai't of the range is considerably lower than that described in Etfts. B and C, and, except to a botanist, there does not appear to be any special inducement to take the course here indicated. It is, however, the most direct way to the valley of the Mur for a pedestrian who has entered the Enns- thal by the road from Ischl (§ 46, Ete. D) at Xeuhaus, close to Irchiing (^2,197'). This place stands on the S. side of the Eniis, close to the opening of the Bon- nershacherthal. through which lies the way to the Murthal. This is a long valley, and it would be scarcely possible to reach Ober-Wolz in one day's walk, -^-specially if the traveller make the ascent of the Hohenwart (7,732'). This summit, rising on the E. side of the pass to Ober-Wolz, has produced a number of rare Alpine plants which would scarcely be expected at such a moderate height. Amongst these may be mentioned Thalictnim alpinum, Oxy- tropis triflora, Saxifraga Kochii and S. Eudolphicma, Gentiana frigida, Fedicu- laris versicolor and P. incarnata. From the Hohenwart the traveller descends in a nearly direct line through the glen of the Schottlbach to Ober-Wolz (2,660'), a small ancient town, kept alive, like most places in the Murthal, by iron and steel works. A road runs along the 1. bank of the Wolz- erbach for about 6 m. from that place to Nieder-Wolz in the Murthal, nearly opposite the point where the high-road from Klagenfurt enters the valley. EorTE E. XIETZEN IN THE EXXSTH.\I. TO LEOBEN, BY THE PAT.TF.XTHAT,. Austrian English miles miles Rottenmann . 2 n Gaishom . 2 9i Kallwang . 3 14 Zimmersdorf . 3 14 Leoben . 2 9i 12 56^ In the preceding Etes. the reader has found notices of secluded Alpine valleys, rarely traversed by a stranger ; and the only frequented road hitherto described ROUTE E. — RUDOLFSBAHN RAILWAY. 329 ill this section serves, at least in its upper portion between Tamsweg and Unzmarkt, mainly for local traffic. The road now to be described forms, on the contrary, one link in an important line of communication between tlie SW. of Germany and the Adriatic. To English travellers it is not a matter of much importance that there should be a direct road from Salzburg to Brack, on the railway from Vienna to Trieste. Those who travel for business make the detour by Vienna, and the tourist does not hurry through such a district as the Salzkammergut without halting ; but it is worthy of notice that there should be a very direct road through the Eastern Alps, by which a traveller may go from the centre of Germany to the Adriatic without rising much, if at all, above the level of 3,000 ft., and without encountering a single steep slope of any importance, unless it be in crossing the Karst between Laybach and Trieste. The Semmering Pass, between Vienna and the basin of the Mur, is not only higher (3,256 ft. above the sea, not speaking of the railway tunnel, which is lower by 365 ft.), but it differs still more in the steepness of the slope on either side, and the necessity of ascend- ing, within a comparatively short dis- tance, a vertical height of 1,900 ft. While the construction of the railway over the Semmering was an enterprise of great difficulty, and the maintenance of the line since its completion has en- countered still greater obstacles, the making of a railway from Salzburg to Trieste would have been comparatively a light matter, and the obstacles of a secondary kind that would have been encountered in going from Salzburg to Lietzen through the Salzkammergut might have been avoided by making the not long detour by "Werfen and Eadstadt. But although the valley drained by the Patten and Liesing streams, which cuts diagonally through the range of the Styrian Alps N. of the Mur, seems to invite the construction of a railway, it never could have been supposed that when, in the fulness of time, the railway did appear, it would be the realisation of a colossal blunder. When the Eudolfsbahn Eailway was devised, with the main object of con- necting the iron districts of Styria on the one hand with the trunk line that leads from Vienna to Western Germany, and on the other with the Southern provinces of Austria and Northern j Italy, it was seen that the line must I approach the Alps by the valley of the Enns. and that it must traverse that of I the Mur between Leoben and Unzmarkt. I Between Hieflau, on the Enns, and Leoben (only 29 m.) is Eisenerz, the j main centre of mining activity, to whose inexhaustible wealth in ore of the finest quality this region mainly owes its celebrity; and the so-called Eisenstrasse between the places above named (see Ete. H), is one of the greatest thorough- fares for traffic in the Austrian domi- nions. It is true that a steep ridge divides Eisenerz from the Murthal, and that to carry a railway that way would require the construction of a tunnel of moderate length, but, unlike every other tunnel yet proposed, this would have paid very nearly the cost of its own con- struction, as it would have been driven through a portion of the vast mass of solid iron ore which forms a great part of the ridge in question. It seems hardly credible that engineers should have seriously proposed to turn aside i from such places as Eisenerz and j Vordernberg, and to mount through the j romantic scenery of the Gesaixse, a dis- ! tance of 26 m. nearly to Lietzen, in j order to turn round at a very acute I angle, and reach Leoben by a detour of I 50 m., through a district all but abso- ! lutely devoid of local traffic. It ap- 1 peared that at the last moment there was some chance of avoiding this mon- ' strous blunder, but in 1867 the earth- works were coramenoed in the Liesing- thal, and the line is now near completion. The distances along the road between Salzburg and Bruck are as follows : — Salzburg to Ischl ( § 46.Rte. A),34im.; Ischl to Steinach i 46. Rte. D). 3.5^ m. ; Steinach to Lietzen (§47, Rte. A),9"^m. ; 830 STYRIAN ALPS. § 58. LESSER TAUERX DISTRICT. Lietzen to Leoben (described here) 56| m. ; Leoben to Bnick, 9^ m. : in all 14o m. The mallepost is a very slow conveyance, employing 32 hrs. to ac- complish the journey. Liet:en (§47, Kte. A) stand? on the N. side of the Ennsthal, here a level marshy tract 2 m. in width. The road to Leoben crosses the valley (where peat is extracted for burning), and then turns eastward, parallel to theEnns, till it reaches the opening of the Valtcnthal. It is obvious to the common observer that this is utterly unlike the ordinary lateral valleys of the Alps, fashioned, if not formed, by erosion. It is a nearly straight trough of considerable breadth, ; sloping upwards, a little S. of E., so gently that in many places a stranger might doubt in which direction the drainage flows. The Palte-nhach, which 1 is no torrent, but a sluggish stream, flows in a direction nearly opposite to that of the Enns, so that its source is only a few miles distant from the defile \ of G-esause. Although the level of the valley is as nearly as possible the same as that of the Enns — the opening is \ confined by a projecting ridge of rock. The road at that point crosses the Pal- tenbach, but soon returns to the 1. bank, and passes below the ancient castle of Strechau, a very picturesque object, es- ' pecially as seen from ' Bottenmann (2, 215'), an ancient little town, with iron-works and an inn ('post'), the best on the road between Lietzen and Leoben. [The pedestrian approaching Eotten- mann from the upper part of the Enns- thal, or vice versa, may with little or no : loss of time take in preference to the road a way which affords a variety of ; charming views. This lies through the Gollingthal, a short open valley that ' enters "the Ennsthal a little way E. of Irdning, just opposite Steinach. At : first the path ascends SSE., but after ' about 1 hr. the main branch of the val- ley turns eastward, and this is followed as far as Op-penherg. Here one path turns southward to follow the Golling- bach to its sources, and another mounts slightly to NE., towards a deep opening in the hills that divide the G-ollingthal from the Paltenthal. The latter path follows a strf-amlet through a little glen j in the S. side of the castle of Strechau ' to join the road near Rottenmann.] I The post-road keeps to the S. side of the valley between Rottenmann and Trichen, where the branch road to the Eottenmanner Tauern (Rte. E) turns oif to the rt. For the greater part of its length the Paltenthal is an almost con- tinuous morass. A\-ith several small lakes, partly choked by marsh plants, such as Scnicio pahulosv.s, Thyssclinum palustre, &c. In the wet meadows Mai axis palu- ; dosa, and other rarities, may be foxind; ' but it is feared that drainage has de- stroyed the habitat of the beautiful arctic species, Pedicidaris sceptriim, extremely rare in continental Europe. In the Triebensee, NymphcEa hiradiata was first found by one of the Benedictine monks of Admont. About 2 m. beyond Trieben the road quits the S. side of the valley and crosses it diagonally to Au, where a torrent, descending through a narrow glen from the Sparafeld, has bro\ight down a mass of detritus, to which Schaubaeh attributes the origin of the Gaishornsee. The post-station at Gaishorn (2,339') stands on a gentle ' slope overlooking the lake, which is ' approached with difficulty, owing to the extent of the surrounding marshes. The Post is a rather rough country inn. [A traveller going from the Paltenthal to Admont may take a verj' direct and agreeable course by the Kaiserau. Start- ing from Rottenmann or Trieben he : passes by the village of Bdrendorf, and mounts thence by a rough road, just I passable for ligiit vehicles, through a short glen, which, in 2 hrs.' steady ' walking from Rottenmann, leads to the Kaiserau (4,183'). This charming spot : is a green basin enclosed by pine forest, I and backed by the fine crags of the ' Sparafeld and the Kalbling. In the midst stands a massive building, which combines the purposes of a monastery, shooting box, and dairy, being an ap- pendage of the great monastery of ROUTE E. — LIESINGTHAL. 331 Admont. The scenery throughout the descent is charming. In going from Gais- horn to Kaiserau the traveller should ascend from Dittmannsdorf (nearly 3 m. above Barendorf ) by a woodcutter's track, nearly all the way through forest. The summit of the ridge, which is rather higher than by the Barendorf path, is marked by an oratory, beside which stands a horse-chestnut tree, the highest known to the writer on the N. side of the Alps. Ladies who may travel this way, between Admont and Barendorf, in country vehicles, should be prepared to get out here and there, as the road is in places extremely steep and narrow. A pedestrian going from Steinach to Admont may combine this course with the course to Eottenmann by the Gol- lingthal, mentioned above, in one very charming day's walk.] Above the Gaishornsee the Paltenthal rises perceptibly, though very gently, to the watershed Ijetween the Palten and the Liesingbach. The last rivulet flow- ing to the Enns is passed near a solitary inn, and presently the ground begins to fall in the opposite direction. The sum- mit level — 2,722 ft. above the sea — is about half-way between Gaishorn and Kallwang (2,392'), a village with an iun at the Post. There are considerable copper works near at hand, which also produce sulphur and vitriolic acid. The chief sources of the Liesingbach are in two glens that descend northward from the so-called Sekkauer Alps ( Ete. G) into the main valley. This is at first narrow, and is throughout less broad than the Paltenthal; and though the slope is gentle, it is rather greater than that of the latter valley. The Paltenthal de- scends from the watershed about 650 ft. in 22 m. ; while the Liesingthal in 26 m. shows a fall of 870 ft. The latter lies between ridges of crystalline slate, over- laid on the N. side by metamorphic rocks. For a notice of the passes leading to Eisenerz and Radmer see Ete. I. Pass- ing through Lksingau (2,308'), where Jager Anclerl and Hiesl are good guides for the neighbouring Alps, the road descends imperceptibly to Mautem (2,290'), a small market-town. The GbssecJc (7,242'), a conspicuous mountain rising N.W. of this place, is mainly com- posed of clay slate, over which, towards the summit, are calcareous rocks. Keep- ing to the 1. bank of the stream, the road goes to the post-station at Tim- mersdorf. If the valley were prolonged in the direction followed from Eotten- mann to this point it would enter the main valley of the Mur very near Leo- ben ; but in that direction it is barred by imdidating hills of slight elevation, which appear to be partly composed of miocene tertiary strata. About 2 m. below Timmersdorf the Liesingbach turns to the rt., towards SSE., and descends through a channel, at least partially produced by erosion, with a more rapid flow than in its upper course, to St. Michael (1,852'), a railway station in the Murthal, about 5 m. above Leoben (Ete. A). 33^ STYPJAN ALPS. § 53. LESSER TAUERN DISTRICT. EOUTE F. EOTTEKJIANN TO JUDENBUEG, BY THE KOTTEXMANNER TAUEKN. Hohen-tanem . Unter-Zeyring . Judenburg . Austrian miles English miles 3 14 3 14 21 lOi 8J 38J The line of road described in the last Etc., though easy, is very circuitous for travellers going from the Ennsthal to the upper valley of the Mur, In truth the distance by that route from Eotten- mann to Judenburg is about 70 m., or 31^ m. more than by the road now to be described. But, as the latter enters the Murthal some miles above Juden- burg, the saving to a traveller (going, for instance, to Klagenfurt), bound for Unzmarkt, is nearly 40 m. This con- sideration doubtless caused the con- struction of the road over the so-called Eottenmauner Tauern. This is a de- pression in the Lesser Tauern range, and is the most easterly pass that is known as a Tauern. It is little fre- quented, and not traversed by any public conveyance. As mentioned in the last Rte., the road turns to the rt. at Trleben, where the Triebenbach tor- rent descends from the direction of the pass. Leaving on the rt. hand near the torrent the large ironworks belong- ing to the monks of Admont, the road mounts rather steeply along the E. slope of the glen towards the Triehenstein (5,923'), a detached summit, conspicuous throughout the ascent. On reaching the E. base of this mountain the main branch of the Triebenbach, which origi- nates in the Sekhauer Alps (next Rte.), is left behind, as the road turns sharply to WSW., making a half-circuit of the Triehenstein. About 7 ni. from Trieben 2^ hrs. ascending, is the post-station of Hohentauern \ it includes only two or three houses in addition to the church, priest's house, and inn. This is rather rough, but affords eligible head-quarters to a geologist or botanist, who will find abundant occiipation for some days in this neighbourhood. The inn stands between 100 and 200 ft. below the sum- mit of the Rottenmanner Tauern, which scarcely attains 4,900 ft. in height. The elevation attributed to it in guide- books is. certainly exaggerated, and, b}'' a singular confusion, this exaggerated estimate has been attributed to the watershed between the Paltenthal and Liesingthal, which falls considerably under the level of 3,000 ft. In mount- ing from Trieben the traveller may, without losing time, take a track that passes round the W. side of the Triehenstein. It diverges from the road about 1 hr. above Trieben, and follows the course of a stream through a little glen, wherein large masses of rock have fallen from the crags on either side. In one place, called Die Sunk, the mass of fallen blocks is so great that it completely fills the boLtom of the glen, and the stream for some distance is entirely concealed from sight and hearing. Eollowing the same track, the traveller rejoins the road close to the inn at Hohentauern. Of the numerous excursions that may be made from hence, the shortest is the ascent of the Triehenstein, easily reached in 1 hr. Though it is overlooked by most of the neighboujing mountains, the view is interesting, and it is a con- venient surveying point for anyone in- tending longer excursions. The most interesting expedition to be made here is the ascent of the Bosenstein (8,017')- This is the easternmost high peak in the Styrian Alps on which any considerable amount of permanent snow is to be found ; which is the less sur- prising, as it surpasses in height every summit E. of the 'Predigt-Stuhl. Ac- cording to Herr Schleicher it is com- posed of true granite, while the neigh- bouring mountains are formed of gneiss or mica-schist. The summit appears to be tolerably easy of access in from 3 to 3| hrs. from the post-house. The tra- veller is surprised to see on a mountain of such moderate height, in a hollow between the summit and the adjoining peak of the Dreysteck, a small lake tliat ' ROUTE r. — PULSTHAL. S33 usually remains partly frozen over throughout the summer. Besides an extensive panorama, the mountain has many attractions for the botanist. Not counting the species peculiar to this region, but "which are found on most of the other summits of the range, the following deserve to be specified: Ra- nunculus crcnaUis, Cerasthan latiatum, Saxifraga biflora, Scmpcrvivum FunJcii, Gentia7iapurnila, Pcdicularis asp/enifolia and P. Porte7ischlagii,Aretia Wiilfe7iiana, Carex aferrwia, dnd C. fuliginosa. Myo- sotis variabilis and Calamagrostis tendla hare been found near the summit of the pass. The portion of the Tauern range Ijang E. of the road to Judenburg, known as the Sekkauer Alps, is further noticed in the next Rte. The westernmost high summit of that group is the Grricsstein (7,653'). It lies SSE. of Hohentauern, and to reach the summit it is necessary to follow a ridge, passing over several intermediate summits, or else to make a considerable circuit. From the sum- mit it is easy to descend to the road between Hohentauern and Zeyring. The Polstkal, through which lies the descent from the Tauern to the valley of the Mur, has at its upper end a wild and somewhat dreary aspect, scarcely in keeping with its veiy moderate ele- vation. For many miles the road runs nearly due S. along the torrent, whose chief sources are on the flanks of the Bosenstein. The village of St. Johann am Tauern (3,332') is passed, and some o or 6 m. farther the traveller reaches Mijderbruck, at the junction with the Pols of the Brcttsteinbach. This tor- rent flows tlirough a branch of the valley quite as long, if not longer, than that through which the road descends from the Tauern. Towards its summit it is formed by two t<:>rrents flowing from nearly parallel glens. Through the more westerly of these it is possible to reach the head of the Donnersbacher- thal (Rte. Dj, by the N. side of the Hohenwart. The more northerly glen leads under the summit of the Brett- stein to a pass connecting this with the •head of the Grollingthal (mentioned in the last Rte.). About 3 m. S. of Moderbruck, is Unter-Zeyring, close to the junction of the Gfbllenbach with the Pols. It is a small cluster of houses, including the post-station and a rather rough country inn. A road runs eastward along the GfoUenbach to Ober-Zeyring (2,916'), j about 2 m. distant. "This is a very 1 ancient place, with two ch\irches — one I dating from the twelfth, the other from the fourteenth century — and some Ro- ! man remains. Several successive sove- reigns of Austria attempted in vain to re-discover a rich silver mine which, according to tradition, once existed j here ; but the iron mine and iron-works I that have risen to some importance in I this century, affuKl a far securer basis 1 for its present prosperity. At Unter- , Zeyring the country road from St. Oswald, : noticed in next Rte., joins the high- road. The lower part of the Pcilsthal is studded with many villages, and exhibits the same aspect of activity and well-being that strikes the traveller in the adjoining portion of the valley of tlie Mur. The Pols bends gradually to the left below Unter-Zeyring, and for many miles the direction of the valley is towards ESE., parallel to the Murthal, from which it is separated by a range of hills of no great height. A country road runs along the 1. bank of the stream, passing Pols (2,511'), the chief place in the valley, and several other villages, before reaching the junction of this valley with the Murthal, about half- way between Judenbui'g and Xnittelfeld (Rte. A). The post-road, leading from Zeyring to Judenburg, or to Unzmarkt, passes through a deep gap in the line of hills above spoken of. On the Pols side the ascent is scarcely perceptible ; but, as the bed of the Mur is here con- siderably lower than that of the Pols, there is a steep descent on the S. side of the pass. Crossing the 3Iur at TJudheira, where the Rudolfsbahn, now in Construction, follows the 1. bank of the river, the road joins the post-road from Klagenfurt by Unzmarkt (Rte. A), about 45- m. from Judenburg. EOUTE G. KIHTTELFELD TO THE PAI.TENTHAL, BY THE SEKKAUEH AXPS. In the triangiilar space enclosed be- tween the valley of the Mur from near Judenburg to St. Michael above Leoben (Rte. A), the road through the Leising- thal and Paltenthal from St. Michael to Trieben (Rte. E), and the road described in the last Rte. from Trieben to Juden- burg, lies the easternmost portion of the Lesser Tauc-rn, known by the de- signation SekJcauer Alps. The chief summits of this group lie in the eastern prolongation of the axis of the Lesser Tauern range, while theBosenstein and the adjoining summits noticed in the last Rte. belong to a diverging ridge that projects to NE. from the main range. The valleys of this district, abounding in chamois and other game, offer many rare plants to the botanist, and contain some fine scenery, which has been a little overpraised by Grerman writers. The botanist accustomed to the Swiss or Tyrol Alps, where the pre- sence of permanent snow maintains the fresh vegetation of high alpine species until the autumn brings a fresh cover- ing of snow, should remember that 'the conditions are different on mountains from which nearly all the snow disap- pears by the end of July, and that com- 334 STYRIAN ALPS. § 53. LESSER TAUERN DISTRICT. paratively few species remain in flower after the middle of August. The heights recently assigned to the chief summits of this group are Hoch Eeichart (7,900'), Hoch Ziyiken {7,79b'), Schrimpfkogel (7,840'), and Griesstein (7,653'). In the writer's opinion the three first- named summits do not differ in height by more than a few feet. Of the three paths here briefly no- ticed, the first is the most direct, and , offers by far the most interesting scenery. L By the Lngcring See. About 9 hrs. to Trieben. A good road from Knittelfeld follows the course of the higermghach, a torrent fed by the streams that drain many of the inner glens of the Sekkauer range. On the way the bo- tanist will observe Spiraa sahcifoUa, common, and apparently indigenous. The pedestrian may, on leaAnng Knittel- feld, take a footpath through the mea- dows, more agreeable and a little shorter than the road, which is rejoined after 2 m. Leaving on the 1. hand a branch road to Sekkau, he keeps to the 1. bank of the stream till he reaches the junction of the two main branches of the valley. The northern branch leads to the In- gering See, while the west branch, drained by the Gaalbach, leads to the ' Polsthal. Three hamlets — Pitschach, j Bischojfeld, and Gaal — stand near the ■ junction, and close to the bridge over the Ingeringbach is a large ' sehloss,' purchased a few years ago by one of the ironmasters of this district, who also owns the extensive shooting of the upper valley. A few minutes' walk before reaching the sehloss the traveller passes a wayside inn (bei Wegscheider), where he may find tolerable rustic quarters, and more civility than is common in Styria. If bound for the Ingering See he will find a path from the inn that carries him to a bridge higher up than that which is crossed by the road. Above this bridge the Ingeringbach runs through a wild mountain glen, with no population excepting a few game- keepers and herdsmen. The bridle track mounts rather steeply above the rt. bank of the torrent, and the scenery ROUTE G. — SEKKAU. 335 graduallj increases in interest. After surmounting a iong and high step in the ■■ ascent, the path enters the pine-forest, and in 1^ hr. from the inn reaches a ; comfortabie shooting lodge, with an- [ nexed d.airY liuildmgs, beyond which \ there is a partial clearing of the forest, j Immediately in front is a steep ridge extending southward from the Hock Beichart, the summit of which is not i here visible. Through a glen on the E. | side of that ridge is the way to a pass I between the Reichart and the Hoch • Zinken, leading to Kallwaug in the j Liesiugthal; but this is reached by a | steep and circuitous path over the 1 shoulder cf'the former mountain. The summit of the Hock Rcirhart (7,900') is attained by following the ridge. Saxi- Jraga kiero.viifolia, Antkanis Styriaca, Pedicularis versicolor, Gentkinafrigida, and other very interesting plants, have been found near the simimit, liut not in any abundance. Above the Jagdhaus the main branch of the valley ascends to N.W., and about 20 m. farther the track reaches the Ingerina See (4,742'), pic- turesquely situated in the midst of rock and pine-forest. Higher up the head of the valley is a wild and savage glen, beset with rocks, fallen from the sur- rounding heights, to which, as to several similar spots in Styria and Upper Aus- tria, the natives have given the name Die Hblle. Passing the ridge at the head of this glen, on the SW. side of the Schrimpfkogel, the traveller enters the head of the Triebenthal, and follow- ing this for 2^ hrs. he will fall into the road descending from the Rottenmanner Tauern to Triehen in the Paltenthal (Ete. F). 2. By ike Gaaltkal. As mentioned above, the torrent which joins the Ingeringbach at Pitschach is called Gaalbach, and the branch of the valley which it drains is locally known as Gaaltkal — written on most maps Gail- thai. Although Gacd, standing near the junction, is the highest hamlet, there are many scattered farm-houses throughout the upper part of the valley. A rough road is carried along the X. side for nearly 2 hrs., keeping a general direction somewhat N. of due W., when a glen opens to the X. and discloses the highest branch of the valley, a glen about 7 Ton. in length, originating a short way W. of the Schrimpfkogel. Follow- ing this glen to its head, the traveller may either cross the ridge dividing it from the head of the Triebenthal, or re- turn to Pitschach by the Holle and the Ingering See. The easiest way to reach Trieben is, however, to cross the ridge dividing the Gaalthalfrom thePolsthal. The pass is seen from Pitschach, and is reached by following the road above- mentioned to a house that stands by a large establishment of charcoal-burners. Three rough tracks diverge from this point ; the middle one is to be se- lected. A good path, passing to the 1. of a large farm-house standing in a hollow, leads to the ridge, the sttmmit of which is marked by a puling and wooden gate, reached in 3 hrs'. steady walking from "Wegscheider's inn. On the "W. side a rough and steep path drops down through pine-forest to the lower level of a little glen, wherein stands the village of St. Oswald. A tolerable road leads thence to Unter Zeyring, in 1^ hr. from the summit, or 4^ hrs. from "Wegscheider's inn. There the traveller may hire a small open vehicle which will carry him to Trieben over the Eottemanner Tauern. 3. By ScHmt. The little town of Sekkai'. (2,800'), the original see of a bishopric, which has in modern times been transferred to Gratz. stands in a hollow at the SSE. side of the Hoch Zinken, 2 hrs.' walk from St. Loreuzen (Rte. A). The abbey-church is a very- fine building, with a remarkable monu- ment of Duke Charles II., of Styria, and his wife, in a chapel lined with Mhite marble. The chief object of most tra- vellers who visit this place is the ascent of the Hock Zin/iCn (7,795'). The most agreeable, but not the shortest, way is by the pilgrimage church of Maria Scknee (6,048'), standing on the ridge of the mountain due N. of Sekkau. The view from the summit is said to be 33G STYPJAX ALPS. § 53. LESSER TAUERS' DISTRICT. superior to that from the Reichart, and the botanist finds a more abundant harvest. The species mentioned above are all found here, except Saxifraga hieraciifolia, and in addition, Aira subspicata, PedLvlaris incarnata, Sem- pervifum Funkii, and S. Wulfenii, with many others. There is no difficulty in descending on the X. side of the mountain into a short glen that opens into the Liesingthal about 1 m. below Kallwang. RoTTTE H. LEOBEX TO HIEFLAr, BY EISENEEZ Austrian English miles mile3 Vordemljerg 2^ lOi F.i--enerz . ! . 2* 9| Hioiliiu - H ci •29i A short branch railway has lately been opened between Leoben and Vor- iernherg. Only two trains run daily each way- one in the morning ; one in the evening. The post road here described is the oiost iuipi.rtant portion of the Eisen- ■strusse, or iron road, constructed to connect tlie chief mining district of Upper Stvria, on the one hand, with the Danube, on the other, with the Mur. The portion of that road lying al(-ng the valley of the Eons, be« twcen the town of Eons and Hieflau, is j described in § 47, Rte. A. On leaving \ Eeoben, the traveller who recollects the roads of England before the railway era is surprised to find an amount of traffic such as used to be encountered in the neighbourhood of our great manu- facturing towns. The road, especially between Leoben and Vordernberg, is covered by almost continuous trains of heavy carts, mostly laden with iron, in some stage of its manufacture. Strange to say, there is, or was, no public con- veyance from Vordernbers' to Eisenerz. The road follows the 1. bank of the Vor- deriibergbach,Mhich. worksa succession of forges, and almost spares the very pretty scenery from the defilement of smoke. About half-way to Vordernberg is Tro- fayach (2,109'), a busy little town, with several inns, and a fine old church. This place stands at the meeting of three glons. That opening to NW. is the Gbmrrabr^v , originating on the XW, side of the G-usseck (Ete. E), and not to be confound. 'd with the beautiful valley describcl in § 52, Rte. H. NNE. from Trofayach is the glen of the Rotz- bach, through which several paths lead eastward to the Tnigosthal (§ o-i, Rte, D). The post -road rtins due N., through the central branch of the val- ley to Vordernberg (2,565'), next to Eisenerz the most important place in the iron district of Stvria; the best inn (Post) is kept by Ander, a civil landlord. This is the seat of an association of ' ironmasters (Radmeister-Communitat), \ one of whom was the late Archduke I John, who possess a large share of the I vast deposit of iron lying between this j place and Eisenerz. The light vehicle j conveying the mail hence to Eisenerz will carry a portmanteau but no passen- I gers. The way is so agreeable and in- j teresting that many travellers will pre- \ fer to walk, even though they should I not intend to quit the high-road. The I high summit rising W. of Vordernberg j is the Rcichenstein (7,082'), a mountain , known to botanists as a habitat for many rare plants. There has, however, been much confusion between this and ROUTE. H.— EISENERZ. 337 tlie Johusbacher Reichenstein noticed ; in the next Ete. The road, for about ' 2 m., mounts along the W. slope, and then turns to the 1., towards a depres- sion in the range enclosing the valley, ' away from the Vordernbergbach, which originates about 4 m. hiulier up, near ! the base of the Hochthur.n (6,808'). The lowest point in the ridge tra- versed by the road, dividing Eisenerz and the valley of the Enns from that of , the Mur, is the FrehicU Pans (4,014'). I The pass lies on the E. side of the famous Erzb'rg, which for 20 centuries i lias been an unfailing source of wealth I and importance to the people of this } district. The descent is rather long and \ steep till, at Trofeng, the stream from ' G^ollgrund enters the valley from the j E., and the road then descends gently txjwards Eisenerz. [Instead of follow- | ing the road, the pedestrian may follow the Yordernbergbachto its source under i the Hochthurm, and then mount a ! steep slope to the Hirscheck pass on | the W. side of that mountain, whose j summit rises in steep crags on the rt. j hand. On the way, and on the ridge | near the pass, the botanist may gather Fapoxer al/nnum, Arabis bcllidifolia, Dia7ithtis alpbnis, Silene alpestris, Po- tcntilla dmiana, Heradcum austria- cu/u, Achillea dusiana, Hieracmra gla- hratum. Campanula pulla, and other interesting plants. A steep descent, with faintly traced p^ath, leads down to the Gsollgrund (§ 54, Rte. D). In the pine-forest grows Cardamine trifulia. The way from Vordernberg to Eisenerz by the Hirscheck requires 5 hrs., ex- clusive of halts.] Eisenerz (2.294') has the usual aspect of mining towns, but smoke, slag, and ashes do not here befoul the face of nature, as they do in similar places in England where coal is the chief fuel. Besides its importance as a place of business, it is at times the resort of persons of distinction who are in%'it€d to join the Emperor's shooting parties, of Avhich this is oft^n the centre. There are several fairly good inns (beira P>rot^ best ; Konig von Sachsen, very fair ; s. c. J. Moser's, also well spoken of). On a terrace above the town stands the ex- tremely picturesque church of St. Os- wald, founded in 1279 by Rudolph of Habsbui^, according to the local chro- nicle. The ramparts surrounding it re- call a much later period when even this remote mountain town was not thought Secure fi'ora the incursions of the Turks. The great smelting fiirnaces are govern- ment establishments, as are nearly all the mining works here. The main ob- ject of interest to a stranger halting here is the Erzberg, or Iron-ore-mountain, which was passed on the 1. hand in crossing the Prebichl pass. Permission to visit the mine, and enter the shafts, is obtained at the director's office (or Hiittenverwaltung) in the town. The mountain is 5,013 ft. in height. It is scarcely an exaggeration to say that it is one mass of metallic ore, as the de- posit is so vast that if it were removed the summit would subside to one half • its present height above the valley. The prevailing ore is a very pure carbonate of iron, jdelding from 36 to 44 per cent, of metal. The estimate (neces- sarily vague) by a local engineer reck- ons the remaining mass of ore at 45 millions of tons, the present annual rate of produce being about 14.000 tons of iron. The upper part of the moun- tain belongs to Vordernberg, and is worked by shafts that open on that side of the dividing ridge, while the lower part, worked from the Eisenerz side, is government property. The mode of working is singular. In summer, when the workmen have no need of shelter, the ore is simply quarried out from the face of the mountain, while the winter season is turned to account in driving shafts into the interior. Between miners and men employed ir the various pro- cesses of reduction, abv-at 5,000 work- men gain a living on the spo'". About half-way up. on the side facing Eisenerz, is the chapel of St. Barbara, for the use of the miners, and some way higher, the Kaisertisch, commanding a fine view. On the summit is a massive iron crucifix, 25 ft. high, erected by the late Archduke 838 STYRIAN ALPS. § 53. LESSER TAUERN DISTRICT. John. The vast (Icposit of iron ore, which makes this place so remarkable, lies in the upper portion of the zone of palaeozoic metamorphic strata that ex- rend westward from the neighbourhood of Vordernberg to that of Lietzen. The excellent quality of the iron secures a superiority for certain purposes over the pro luce of England. Belgium, and most other countries. The most interesting excursions from Eisenerz are those to the Frauenmauerhohle and to the Leopold- steiner See, both of which are noticed in the next section. The road to Hieflaii fol- lows the stream of the Erzbach through a glen abounding in varied scenery, whose freshness and wildness contrast strangely with the noise and dust of the mining town. The castle of Leopold- stein is seen on a ridge that conceals from view the charming lake behind it (§ o-i, Rte. E). In approaching Hieflau, the opening of the ffadmer valley, no- ticed in next Rte., is passed on the 1. hand, and presently after the Eisen- strasse enters the valley of the Enns, and the traveller reaches Steuber's good inn at Hieflau (described in § 47, Ete. A). The Austrian Government has lately leased to a private company the impor- tant works at Eisenerz, along with its rights over the Erzberg. The persons having the charge of the mine at Hoch Ofen are no longer Grovernment oflS.cials, but probably little change will be made in the management. Route I. EISKXERZ TO ADMOXT, BY JOILN'SBACH. The small mountain district lying N, of the Palten and Liesingthal, bounded on the E. side by the road from Leoben to Hieflau, described in last Rte., and on the N. by the valley of the Enns, de- serves in many ways the attention of travellers. Though the mountains do not rise to a great height, the extreme boldness of their forms, contrasted with the rich vegetation of the valleys, oifer attractions to the lover of nature, sur- passing those of any other part of the region lying between the Enns and the Drave, while the geologist and the bota- nist will join in regretting that no decent accommodation is to be found in the valley of Johnsbach, where interesting occupation might be found for days, if not for weeks. The mountains enclosed within the small space here described, are often, but in the writer's opinion, erroneously, spoken of as forming a western pro- longation of the range of the Hoch- schwab, described in § 54. In the first place it must be observed that within this narrow space we have two distinct ranges. The one, a continuous ridge, extending westward from the Reichenstein above Vordernberg, to the neighbourhood of Rottenmann, formed mainly of metamorphic palaeozoic rocks, is intermediate in position as in age between the crystalline rocks of the Sekkauer Alps and the triassic range of the Hochschwab, whose western termi- nation is the ridge descending from the Brandstein towards the town of Eisenerz. The other group of bold limestone peaks, rising N. of the upper valleys of Johns- ba'ch and Radmer, is geologically more recent than the Hochsi-hwab range, and forms part of the great limestone mass that includes the Dachstein group, the Todtes-Gelnrg, and the summits rising on the N. side of the Gesaiise defile. Even for an active walker the distance from Eisenerz to Admont, by the route EOUTE I. — VALLEY OF RAD.MER 133 here described, is too great to leave time to enjoy the scenery, and it is better for , the traveller to rough it for one night at Johnsbach, or else to break the joiu'ney at Eadmer an der Hasel, 5 hrs. (moderate walking) from Eisenerz. From that place to Johnsbach is about 4^ hrs. ' walk, and 12 m. by road carries him { from that village to Admont. j The main branch of the Erzbach tor- \ rent, which descends from Eisenerz to j Hieflau, originates on the S. side of the ; KaiserscJiild {6, S17 ), and after flowing eastward for some distance, turns XE. , to join the stream from the Gsollgrund i at Eisenerz. The track follows at first | the rt. bank of the torrent, passing by i the great smelting houses, and then by | vast piles of timber prepared for con- j sumption in the furnaces. As the tra- j veller advances the scenery improves, ' and towards the head of the glen the j craigs of the Kaiserschild rise very | boldly to the rt. A pass here mounts | to SSW., and crosses a pass leading to ! Kallwang in the Liesingthal. The I main track, just passable for light vehi- I cles, zigzags up a slope half covered by i large bushes of deadly nightshade i {Atropa belladonna). Near the summit of the pass, where the track again enters the shade of pine-forest, is a plain little cottage, built of squared pine trunks, where the Emperor lodges when chamois hunting in this neighbour- hood. Soon after the summit of the pass— called Radmer.Hal^ (3,824')— is reached, and the track, no longerpassable for carriages, begins to descend along a steep slope overlooking the glen of the Finster Grahen. This branch of the valley was once covered with a vast pine forest, but of late years the axe has made havoc, leaving bare and deformed large spaces on the flanks of the moun- tain. A steep descent leads down to i the stream of the Einster Graben, which i presently opens into a wider valley op- ! posite the village of Radmer an der | Stuhen (2,396'), the chief place in the ; valley, which is collectively called Had- i mer, reached in 4 hrs. from Eisenerz. : The village church with two towers, two miserable inns, and most of the houses, stand on a projecting knoll, some 250 ft. in height, said to be com- posed of nearly pure iron ore. Instead of the way above described, the traveller coming from Eisenerz may reach Eadmer an der Stube by carriage road, passing on the way through very fine S'enery. Having followed the road to Hieflau (described in last Rte.), to within about \\ m. of that place, he turns sharply to the 1. at the junction of the Eadmer valley vrith that of the Erzbach, and passes tlu-ough a very fine defile between the base of the Lugauer and that of the Kaiserschild. H hr. on foot (or less in a carriage) from the opening of the valley, suffices to reach the bridge below the village. The object which chiefly fixes the atten- tion of the traveller in Eadmer is the very bold peak of the Lugauer (about 7,240'). The E. side, facing Eadmer, which was constantly in view in de- scending from the pass of Eadmer Hals, rises with extreme steepness in crags whose nearly horizontal stratification is very strongly marked even from a distance. The ascent may be effected from this side by a steep path, bearing to the y. side of the mountain, which leads in li hr. of rapid ascent to the Scheicheck Alp, where, in case of need, very fair night-quarters are found in a roomy and moderately clean chalet. The same place may be reached in 2 hrs. from Hieflau, ascending through the Waggraben, a ravine which af- fords abundance of fossils to the geo- logist. The peak has a double summit, divided by a deep cleft. The X.E. point, nearest to the Scheicheck Alp, has the trigonometric signal, and was found to measure 7210. The SW. point, reached by Herr Schleicher in 2 hrs. from the alp, is higher by some 30 ft. The view is not equal to that from the Grosse Buchstein on the N. side of the Gesaiise (§ 47, Ete. A), or from the Hoch-Thor. Herr Schleicher failed in his attempts to descend from the sum- mit either directly towards Eadmer, or towards Johnsbach. and was obliged to o40 STYKIAX ALl'S. § 53. LESSER TAUERN DISTRICT. retrace his steps, and finally reached the Gesaixse by the Hartelsgraben. The traveller bound for Johnsbach, who has entered the valley by either way from Eisenerz, has no occasion to mount the hill on which the village stands, but may follow the cart-track jilong the 1. bank of the stream. On the v.-ay bo passes the abandoned works of a copper mine, once cons'idered very productive, but ruined, it is said, by liad management, and in 1 hr, reaches a large building — a * schloss ' — now in- liabited by an overseer appointed by the Mining Association at Vordernberg, who have purchased the forests of Up- per Eadmer. The overseer is willing to receive guests, who will probably find themselves better off here than at the inns of Lower Eadmer or Johnsbach ; l»ut the place has a dilapidated air, not promising much comfort. Donat Graz, who lives near, is said to be a good guide. The hamlet, consisting of a number of houses scattered near the schloss, is called Radmer an der Hasel. This is the best starting-point for the ascent of the Zciritz Kampel (6, 952'), the highest summit in the range, already spoken of, that extends westward from the Reichenstein near Vordernberg. It may also be reached from Eadmer an der Stuben, through the Finster Graben, but does not seem to offer a particularly fine view. Passes on either side of the summit lead to Kallwang (Ete. E). The path to Johnsbach quits the valley of Eadmer, and ascends the steep slope immediately W. of Eadmer an der Hasel ; the path cannot be missed, and in l^- hr. the summit of the pass is attained. This is quite flat, and a tract of peat moss extends for some distance, in which Andromeda ■p^'lifolia, Carcx irrigua, C. 2)ttuciflora, and other inreresfing plants, are found. As the traveller advances, and the really grand scenery of the Johnsbachthal opens before him, he will feel surprise that this beautiful glen has not attained a wider celebrity. The Hoch-Thor and Ho;.-h-Zinodl on the N. side of the I'alley, and the Eeichenstein in the western background, are summits that remind him, on a not very reduced scale, of the daring peaks of the Dolo- mite Alps. The descent is rather greater and longer than he is led to expect when he first gains a view of the lower valley, and he ultimately finds that the church and inn of Johns- hack are not where they are commonly marked on the maps, but some way farther, on the S. side of the stream, close to the point where this turns northward to descend towards the Enns. A brief acquaintance with the inn will explain why this spot is not a favourite resort of tourists. It is in every way repulsive, but the traveller will find civility, and clean but rough quarters, kept by Fr. Gasteiner, about 1^ m. above the A'illage, a little below the bridge by which the road crosses to the I. bank of the stream. A lying and drunken old fellow, who professes to have been up all the surrounding peaks, volunteers his services as guide. The writer thought himself better off in going alone. Many interesting excursions may be made in this valley, and the first place must be given to the ascent of the Hoch- Thor (7,478'), the highest of the lime- stone peaks overlooking the Gesaiise defile. It maintained the reputation of being inaccessible until Herr Schleicher, who has climbed nearly all the high summits of the neighbourhood of Ad- m.ont, published an account of his ascent of this summit, achieved several years ago with the assistance of a Hieflau guide, who showed himself to be an excellent cragsman. (See the Jahrbuch of the Austrian Alpine Club for 1866.) The summit has two peaks of nearly equal height, connected by an extremely narrow and difficidt arete, of which the eastern point was attained by Heir Schleicher. The writer is persuaded that the western peak is accessible by the S. and SE. side, and believes that this will be found less difficult than the course taken by the first explorer. Those who have not practical experience of the Kmrmnholz, ov Pinus mughcs, which ROUTE I. — FLORA OF THE JOHNSBACH ALPS. 341 clothes tlie upper slopes of the moun- tain, should be aware that much time may be saved by making a long detour in preference to crossing even a short slope defended ]jy this formidable ob- stacle to mountain climbing. The up- permost peak of the Hoch-Thor is all but completely bare of vegetation, and the difficulty of the climb is much in- creased by the crumbling nature of the rock. The Hock-Zinodl, a bold summit rising between the Hoch-Thor and the Lugauer, and about equal in height to the latter, is comparatively easy of ac- cess. It has a rich and varied flora, and offers great attractions to the ento- mologist. East of the village of Johnsbaeh, a high ridge extends parallel to the Enns, including three summits, the Rcichenstem (about >,400'?), Sparafdd (7,346'), and Kalhling. The first of these is a remarkable mountain. The summit is, at least on three sides, a tower of lime- stone, with faces that are, in great part, absolutely vertical. The writer has climbed to the base of this tower, which is 400 or 500 ft. in height, and as far as he could discover there is little chance of reaching the summit by the side facing Admont, the only portion which he did not fully see. It is easy to descend along the ridge dividing the Johnbachthal from the glen which falls into tlie Paltenthal at Au. near Grais- horn (Rte. E). At the Trofenhtitte, the traveller who may take this pleasant walk, will fall into a path tliat leads in 3 hrs. from Johnsbaeh to G-aishom. Those who shun difficult paths may, nevertheless, choose a way that will enable them to enjoy near at hand some very fine and wild scenery, by going from Johnsljach to Hieflau through the Sulz- kar. This is a d(>ep depression between the Lugauer and the Hoch-Zinodl, through which a tolerably well-traced path leads to Hieflau. Instead of de- scending directly to that place it is pos- sible to reach the high road to Admont through the ravine of the Hartelsgmbcn. Those who wish to ascend the Hoch- I Thor or Hoch-Zinodl in good time, may seek night-quarters at the Koter Alp, or the Wolf bauern Alp, in preference to I sleeping at the disagreeable inn at Johnsbaeh. I Whatever other excursions may be made here, the traveller should, on no account, omit the very remarkable defile ! through which the torrent, and the rough but practicable road, descend i northward from Johnsbaeh to the Enns- \ thai. Within a few hundred yards of the village the rocks close around, coni- 1 pletely shutting out the view of the I valley and the surrounding mountains. I Nothing can be more fantastic than the ! forms of the rocks, and the scene is one I which leaves a permanent impression, j being scarcely to be surpassed for sin- gularity. The main valley is reached j about 8 m. from Admont, and the en- I tire walk or drive is one of the highest I interest. The limestone mountains here I named, extending along the S. side of : the Enns fi'om Admont to Hieflau, are extraordinarily rich in rare plants. The I summit easiest of access, and which has ' supplied many of the most interesting species, is the westernmost of the en- tire range — the Kalbling — best visited from the Kaiserau, near Admont (Ete.E) ; 1 but the more eastern summits, though ! less often visited, seem to be at least equally rich. Many high alpine plants i here descend to a low level in the nar- j row cleft-like valleys ; thus, Papaver cdinraira may be gathered by the* road- side in the G-esaiise. The following list includes only the most interesting spe- cies : — Papavcr alpinvin ; Arahis inimila ; Draba steUata ; Thlaspi alpinuni ; I)i- antkiis alpinus ; Cherleria imbricata ; PotentlUa minima; P. elusion a ; Sasi- fraga Burseriana ; Valeriana elongata : V. ccltica ; Achillea elusiana ; Cineraria alpestris ; Saussurea pygmcca ; Leon- todon taraxaci; Soyeria hyoseridifolia ; Pedicidaris asp'enifoUa; P. incarnata ; P. rosea ; Cortvsa Matthioli ; Euphjrhia pilosa ; Salix Wulfeniana ; S. Wald stein - iana ; Malaxis Monophylla ; Avena alpes- tris ;Festuca Sckeuchzeri ; Scsieria tenella. STYKIAX ALPS. § ,j4. ilAKIAZELL DISTRICT. SECTION 54. 3IARIAZELL DISTRICT. I>" this s(^ction we propose to gire a short notice of the more interesting parts of the monutain district lying on the lx)r(lers of Stp-ia andAiistria proper, whose centre is at 3Iariazell, Its limits are well defined on the SE. side by the rjiilway from Wiener Neustadt to Bnu'k an der Mur, and the road thence to Leoben, and bytheEisenstrasse from Leo>>en to Steyer on the Enns to SW. On the X. side the Alps subside so gra- dually towards the valley of the Danube tiiat it is impossible to fix a definite boundar)'; but we take as the extreme limit the road from Steyer to Waidhofen, and thence to Wiener Neustadt by Kirchberg, Traisen, and Altenmarkt. The hilly region hnng N. of that limit, known as the Wiener Wald, does not fall within the scope of this work. With the exception of a T^and of crystalline slate, and a parallel strip of metamor- 1 phic rocks in the valley of the Miirz, all I the mountain masses of this district are I formed of secondary limestone, and as usual they do not lie in such definite I ranges as are usually shown where si- liceous rocks prevail. It is, nevertheless, sufficiently obvious that the higher sum- mits lie in two ranges, both nearly parallel to the valley of the Miirz. In the higher of these, known as the Hoch- schwab range, the most conspicuous summits are the Brandstein (6,542'), Hochschwab (7,441 ),Veitselialp(6,478'), Kaxalp(6.o7o'j, and SchneebergI 6,809'). The northern range, which is far less well-defined, shows a series of rugged siimmits extending ENE. from the con- fluence of the Styrian Salza with the Enns, and gradually subsides into the hill country in the ridge dividing the Traisen from the Bielach. In this range the highest points are the Diir- renstein (6,142') and the Oetscher (6,320'). The Hochstein, between Kirchberg and Tm-nitz, measures only 3,848 ft. Though not much visited by foreign- ers, the valleys of this district are more tourist-ridden than any part of the Alps, if we except the most frequented spots in Switzerland. The inhabitants of Vienna, and, speaking generally, those of all the G-erman provinces of Austria, share in a love of moimtain scenery that seems to extend from the Emperor to the meanest of his subjects. Lying within such a convenient distance of the capital this district has long been frequented by tourists, but the numbers j deserving that appellation are trifling compared to that of the new variety of our species developed in these later days — the Exeursionist. These naturally abound in the spots most easily reached from railway stations, sucli as Buch- berg, Reichenau, Mtirzzusehlas, and the neighbouring villages ; and are, usually speaking, inoffensive and unobtrusive, which is more than can always be said of the same class in France or Eng- land. If it be a matter of genuine sa- tisfaction that an influence of the most purifying and ennobling kind is thus MARIAZELL DISTlilC. 343 brought to bear upon a constantly in- cretising number of our fellow-creatures, It is yet allowable to feel thankful for the fact, that a large part of the Alps is likely to be long available for the quiet enjoyment of the solitary traveller. In the district now described there is a great deal of charming scenery, and some spots that approach to rivalry with the grander scenes of the High Alps ; but its attractions are unconsciously exag- gerated by writers who measure beauty and grandeiir by comparison with the scenery of the arid hills near Vienna. The inhabitants of that city enjoy an inestimable advantage in living within easy reach of real mountains, of live torrents, and aboriginal pine forests. Many a man in London would think a similar privilege cheaply purchased at the price of a quarter of his income ; but when we read in German and English giiide-books of the ' awful ravine ' of the Hollenthal, of the 'majestic peak' of the Oetscher, and of the ' perfectly Swiss scenery' and 'snowy mountains' of the Semmering Pass, we must suppose that the writers have never seen, or have forgotten, the interior recesses of the greater ranges of the Alps. The district now described may be truly called a paradise of sportsmen, but a paradise whose access is confined to the chosen few. The best shooting is in the hands of imperial and princely owners, and the game is almost every- where strictly preserved. Yet, in this land, which is supposed to be the head- quarters of feudalism, it has never entered the imagination of the most insolent noble to attempt to exclude the human race from his possessions and debar them from the right of breatliing the air of the mountain-tops. To the dis- grace of our islands, Britain is the only part of the civilised world where so mon- strous an outrage has been submitted to under the plea of rights of property. For a traveller who enjoys scenery of the wilder kind, and who is able to in- dulge in rough mountain walking, the best bead-quarters in this district are at Wildalp (Rte. B), but Keichenau, Buch- bei-g, and Miirzzuschlag are spots at which weeks or even months may be pleasantly passed by a family desirous of spending the summer season within easy reach of Vienna. The traveller will find throughout the southern provinces of Austria that prices of almost everything required by a tra- veller rise continuously as he approaches the capital. This is particularly true of the district now described, and the charges of inns, properly called reason- able by comparison M-ith others in the same neighbourhood, are imiversally higher than in Tyrol or Carinthia. It has appeared most convenient to di\-ide the brief account given in this work of the railway from Vienna to Trieste into three portions. That be- tween Bruck an der Mur and Vienna is given in this section ; the line between Bruck and ]Marburgin § 56, and the re- maining portion between Marburg and Trieste in § 64. 844 STTRIAN ALPS. § 54. MARIAZELL DISTRICT. Route A. BEUCK AN DEE MTTR ro TIENNA BY liAIL'WAY. Austrian English miles miles Kapfcnberg . , i 2i Kind berg Mitterdorf . 4I Krieglach . It 2i Murzzuschlag 7 Spital . 4? Semmering . li 1 Breitensteiu 4f Klamm . . H Payerbach . IJ 7 Gloggnitz . li 7 Neunkirchen li 7 Wiener Neustadt . 2 d| Vbslau . 2i 111 Baden . ModUng 4 2i Vienna . . . 2 k 23 108 Several of the minor stations, of no interest to travellers, are omittefl. The distances, as given in the Company's time-bills, are somewhat in excess of the truth. The express train from Trieste, passing Brack at 5.31 p.m., reaches Vienna at 9.36 p.m. Four other trains daily employ from 6 to 7 hrs. Two additional trains ply daily between Payerbach and Vienna, and many more on the line between Vbslau and the capital. BnicJc an der Mur (1,524') is a small but busy town at the junction of the ]\Iur with the Miirz, where the stream of traffic from Eisenerz, Salzburg, Klageu- furt, and the Upper Murthal, that had been concentrated at Leoben, meets the great line of railway between Vienna and Trieste. There are several inns (Adler, Mitterbraii, &c.) in the town, 1>ut the traveller will fare much better at the Eisenbahngasthof, beside the railway station, one of the best hotels in South Germany. It does not, however, contain many bedrooms, and strangers must sometimes seek elsewhere, or go on by night-train to some other station. The town is well built, but has few sights except the old Filrstenhof vntln a Gothic (or semi-byzantine) front and a large church. On the S. side is a long woodeu Vtridge over the Mur, here grown to a stately river with a deep and steady current. On tl^e E. side of the to»m the far less amplo stream of the Miirz hurries by, A bridge leads across it to the railway station, and a few hundred yards lower down the two rivers join their waters. The position of the town, which may be well seen from the heights on which stands the old castle of Landskron, is interesting to the physical geographer. The course of the Miirz from Miirzzu- schlag to this place is about WSW., or exactly contrary to that of the Mur from Knittelfeld downwards ; and it is clear that these streams flow towards each other in what is orographically one and the same valley. The united waters escape towards SSE. through a narrow cleft at rt. angles to the direction of their previous course. The range of the Glein Alps (noticed in § 56, Ete. F), extending parallel to the Mur from Ob- dach nearly to Brack, is evidently pro- longed to the ENE. by the mountains rising above the 1. bank of the Miirz from Bruck to the Semmering Pass, Commencing with the liennfeld (5,321') immediately E. of Bruck, the most no- ticeable of these summits are the Teu- fehtein (4,888'), Stuhlfck (5,834'), and G-rosse Pfaff (4,985'). If we in- clude with these a diverging ridge cul- minating in the Wechsel (5,701'), it will be seen that this is the only mass de- serving the designation of a mountain range that rises E. of the boundary as- signed to the Styrian Alps in the intro- duction to this chapter. Kaffenherff, the first station in the Miirzthal, is nearly opposite the opening of the valley of the Thorlbach, through which runs the road to Mariazell by Seewiesen (Ete. C). The little town is on the 1. bank of the Miirz ; and on the opposite side of the valley, some 700 ft. above the stream, stands Oherkapfen^ berg, now a ruin, but once one of the finest castles of Upper Styria. Still higher up are the remains of an older castle, and on the summit of the hill stands the Loretto Chapel, where are preserved some relics of the knightly founder of the castle. Two or threa ROUTE A. — SEMMERING lUILWAY. 345 hours may be -u-ell spent in visiting these remains of a distant age. The scener}' of the Miirzthal is throughout very picturesque ; and the traveller, if not pressed for time, may well prefer to traverse it on foot, or in a countrj- carriage. The next place of any note is Kindberg (1,801'), on rising ground above the stream, with several inns (Schwarze Adler ; Krone, &:c.). An avenue of trees leads from the little town to the modem castle of Obcrkind- herg ; commanding a fine ^^ew, and con- trasting in its aspect with the many ancient and mostly ruined strongholds of the valley. The next station is Mit- terdorf (1,879'), at the opening of the Veitschtkal, descending from the Hohe Veitsch. An active walker may take the summit on the way from this place to Mariazell or Miirzsteg. A few minutes after leaving Mitterndorf the train reaches the next station at Krkglach (l,9o7')- Inscriptions on the wall of the church-tower record the three cala- mities which befell this place in the first half of the 16th century :— In 1529 an incursion of the Turks; in 1541 a plague ; in 1544 a cloud of locusts that darkened the sun at mid-day. A road ascends from Fressnitz, a little below Krieglach, over the range on the SE. side of the valley, and leads either to Birkfeld on the Feistritz, or to Fried- Lerg, on the frontier of Hungary', about 30 m. distant. Anthracite coal is worked in several of the glens that open on the 1. bank of the Miirz. The head of the main branch of the Miirzthal is reached at Mur~zuschlag (2,246'), a small town, with numerous inns (Brauhai;s ; Ele- phant ; Hirsch ; and others). There is, besides, a good hotel and restaurant at the rly. station. Herr Brunner, the inn- keeper, an active member of the Austrian Alpine Club, may be consulted with ad- vantage as to mountain excursions. The upper valley of the Miirz, through which runs the road to Mariazell (Ete. B), here opens to NW., while the rly., and the old post-road, mount towards the Scmmerivg Pass along the Frbschnitz- bmh . The railwav between this station and that of Gloggnitz, long claimed, with justice, to be considered the most remarkable mountain railway in the world, not only on account of the abso- lute height to be sxirmounted, but still more because of the steepness of the slope on the NE. side. The difficxilties on the SAV. side, ascending from Miirz- i zuschlag to the summit, are compara- 1 tively inconsiderable ; but the look-out, 1 as the train gradually attains a height ; of several hundred ft. above the torrent, I is interesting. The best "views are i gained from the seats on the rt. side of ; the carriage going from Miirzzuschlag I to Grloggnitz. The construction of this I ptortion of the line cost six years' labour, j and about 1,400,000/. sterling. The ' commendable precautions taken for the ; security of the trains have been so ; effectual that no accident is recorded during 14 years since it was opened for traffic in 1854. As mentioned above, the distances between the stations given ! in the Company's bills are exaggerated. The actual distance along the line, from hence to Gloggnitz, is just 25|- m., while I in a straight line it does not exceed ! 13^ m. Nearly the entire difference of 12 m. is caused by the windings of the road between the summit and Gloggnitz, a distance of only 6 m. in a straight line. In the follo-ndng notice the heights , above the sea of the rly. stations are indicated, not those of the neighbouring ^-illages that give their names to the j stations. ! From Miirzzuschlag station (2,145'), ' where the ponderous locomotives used . for this part of the journey are attached ; to the trains, the ascent begins along ; the slope on the X. side of the Frosch- I nitzbach, and at the next station — ! Spital (2,539')— has attained a height I of nearly 400 ft. above that torrent. A , little higher up, the glen through which I the stream descends bends abruptly to : th-e S., and a track (said to be passable j for light carriages) mounts along it to a comparatively high pass, called Sattel- hcrg (4,142'), between the Grosse Pfaff (4,985') and the Stuhleck (5,834'). From the pass it descends SSAY. into the head M^ of the valley of the Feistritz, one of the chief affluents of the Eaab. Above Spital, the railway passes alternately through deep cuttings and over long viaducts, till it reaches the opening of the great tunnel, pierced by the railway engineers to avoid the last and steepest part of the ascent. It is lighted with gas, and to prevent the mischievous effects of frost in winter the tunnel is, at that season, closed at both ends by •wooden gates, that are opened only to allow the passage of the trains. This precaution is the more necessary, as there is a considerable infiltration of water from above through the rock, which is an impure limestone, probably of carboniferous age. To facilitate the drainage the summit level — 2,891 ft. above the sea — is in the middle of the tunnel. This is 4,667 ft., or about seven-eighths of a mile in length, and the trains take 6 or 7 minutes to go through it. At the E. end of the tunnel the train reaches the Semmering station (2,881'). A traveller not pressed for time may here quit the rly., and mount the slope to the summit of the S^m- merijig Pass (3,256'), only \ hr. distant. The great road over which the traffic formerly passed between Austria and Bohemia on one side, and Trieste and Venice on the other, is now almost abandoned. A once-frequented inn, still visited by pleasure tourists, stands at the top, and close to it is an inscription recording the completion of the road in 1728 by the Emperor Charles VI. The Sonnenvjendstein (5,069') rising SE. of the pass, and easily reached in less than 2 hrs., commands a fine view, reaching to the Xeusiedler See in Hungary. From the summit of the pass the old road descends towards ENE., in numerous zigzags, to Schottwien, and thence to Gloggnitz, which place may be reached in 2i hrs. on foot, while the omnibus trains take about 1^ hr. A traveller wishing to inspect the principal works on the rly. must make a considerable circuit, and give several hours to the undertaking. Between the Semmering station and Payerbach the railroad STYRIAN ALPS. § 54. MARIAZELL DISTRICT. passes through or over a succession of tunnels, covered galleries, cuttings, and viaducts, every yard of the way requiring \\eaxy labour and expense. At first the direction taken is northward, in order to cross a deep ravine called Kalte Rinne. The line then rims eastward for several miles, until, on reaching a projecting angle of the mountain, imme- diately overlooking Gloggnitz, it turns sharply WNW. into the lateral valley of the Schwarzau, and crosses that val- ley. After making a circuit round the village of Payerbach it returns nearly parallel to its previous course to Glogg- nitz. Only the more remarkable works are here enumerated. After passing tlirough three long tunnels, and over a short viaduct, the Adlitzgraherii is tra- versed by a viaduct nearly 500 ft. long and 75 ft. high; but this is much sur- passed by the succeeding viaduct over the Kalte Rinne, 715 ft. long, and 150 ft. in height. On this part of the way fine views are gained by those who sit on the rt. hand of the carriages. An- other tunnel, and another viaduct, lead to the Breitenstein station (2,545'). The way now lies along the very steep face of mountain, in great part a mere pre- cipice of bare rock, called WeinzetteU wand. The original design was to carry the rly. along a shelf cut in the face of this precipice, but the crumbling nature of the stone made this impracticable. Hence the passage is effected by frequent tunnels, and in one part by an artificial stone gallery, with lateral openings, but covered with a massive stone roof, for protection from falling stones and ava- lanches. After passing the Klamm sta- tion (2,240') the slope is much less steep, and the traveller gains more fre- quent peeps over the valley on his rt., where lie Schottwien, and numerous smaller villages. On approaching the angle of the mountain, the train bears to the 1., and, after passing through a short tunnel, a new and striking view is gained towards Gloggnitz, backed by the hills that rise beyond the Hungarian frontier. Still turning to the 1. the train completes the sharp curve, and ROUTE A. — VIENNA. 347 passes the Eichherg station (2,165'). The traveller now tinds himself over- looking the course of the Schwarzau, which, after issuing from the Hollen- thal, above Reichenau, descends ESE. towards G-loggnitz, through a compara- tively open vaUey. The descent towards Payerbach, which is seen backed by the mass of the Schneeberg, is the steepest on the whole route, preserving an inclin- ation of 1 in 40. The stream of the Schwarzau and the valley are traversed by a massive embankment, and a via- duct, about 750 ft. in length, and 80 ft. in height, which sweep in a curve round the "W. side of the village of Fayerhach (Rte. H), which is at a lower level, and some minutes' walk from the station. This is 1,580 ft. above the sea, or 585 ft. Ijelow Eichberg. Payerbach and Keichenau are further noticed in Ete. H. Passing by a very extensive govern- ment paper-mill, said to produce yearly 150,000 reams, the rly. now descends more gently along the N. side of the Schwarzau to the Gloggnitz station (1,356'), where, looking upwards, the railway works so lately passed may be discerned in unexpected places on the Bteep slope of the opposite mountain. The little town of Gloggnitz (Inn: Alp- enhorn ; restaurant at the rly. station) is very prettily situated, but is not so conve- nient for mountain excursions as Payer- bach or Eeichenau. It will be remarked that the valley extending hence to Xeu- Etadt, through which the rly. and the high-road are carried, lies in the pro- longation of that of the IMur and the Miirz. Neunkirchen, a small but thriving manufacturing town, is the best station for the traveller wishing to make the interesting excursion to Buchberg (Ete. I). The Ternitz station, nearer to Gloggnitz by 2 m., is also rather nearer to Buchberg, but there is no certainty of finding a vehicle there without much delay. At Wiener yeustadf (Inns : Hirsch ; Kreuz ; Lowe) an important town, in former days the frequent resi- dence of Austrian sovereigns, the rail- way maybe said finally to leave the Al- I pineregion,andtoenter the plain of lower I Austria. The town is only 838 ft. I above the sea. The Military Academy, I located in the ancient imperial castle, is I an important institution, not undeserV" I ing the careful notice of military men. The Kehrback, along which the road has j been carried since Gloggnitz, here joins i the Leitha, and the Hungarian frontier is 2 or 3 m. E. of that river. The rail- way now turns about due N., skirting the E. base of the hilly district of the "Wiener "Wald. The Schneeberg is often in view, but only justifies its name dur- ing 8 or 9 months in the year. VbsJau is best known to foreigners by the full-bodied red wine which is pro- duced in the surrounding district. It is surrounded by the villas of wealthy j Viennese, and is beginning to rival as a { place of popular resort j Baden, the next station on the rail- j way, the Brighton of Vienna, if that I name can be gi^-en to a place where wa- ter is a scarce commodity. Though de- serted by the court, it is the favourite resort of citizens, and excxirsion trains cany thousands here on holidays, while many families reside here during the summer and autumn. There are some pretty walks and rides, especially that to the Helenenthal, but the place is hot and dusty, and not tempting to English I tourists. Seventeen trains start daily in summer for Vienna. It is beyond the scope of this work to describe this great city, transformed and beautified during the last 20 years, so as to have become the Paris of Eastern Europe. What further progress the city, and the empire of which it is the capital, may make under the vivifying influence of free instituS tions is one of the questions to which futurity will give a reply. Much might be said of the hotels of Vienna, but it suffices here to giv& a list of those in the centre of the town and those in the suburbs, it being understood that those here called second-class are on a par in general standing with the first-class hotels of other cities of Germany, and that those ranked as third-class are (as 348 STYPJAX ALPS. § 54. MARIAZELL DISTRICT. far as the writer's information goes) fre- quented by persons of respectable sta- tion in life. In the Inner City — first- class — Erzherzog Karl, extremely well managed; Oesterreichischer Hof ; Hotel Miinseh ; Romischer Kaiser — second- class — Stadt Frankfurt, a favourite dining place ; Kaiserin Elisabeth, some- what fallen off; Matsehacher Hof; Stadt London ; Hotel Meisl — third-class — Wilder ZNIann Ungarische Krone ; Konig von Ungarn. In the Leopoldstadt — seeond-class — Hotel National ; Gol- denes Lamm ; this and the last deserve to be called first-class hotels, but, being farther from the centre, they are less convenient for families, and the prices are a degree lower than those of equal rank in the city — third-class — Weisses Eoss ; Hotel Schroeder, There are many other hotels, some probably deserv- ing to be classed in the above list, while Others fall into a lower category. EorTE B. JliJEZZrSCHLAG TO EISEXEEZ, BY MAEIA- ZELL AND HIEFLAr. Austrian English miles miles Miirzsteg . 3 14 Mariazell . . 4 18f WUdalpen . . . 61 29| Hiefiau . . 4i 20 Eisenerz . . 2 n 19i 91f No post-horses. Carriages may be hired at the following rates ; — Carriage -sNith two horses (Zweispann), from ilurzzuschlag to irariazcll, 20 fl. ; if taken only to Miirzsteg, 6 fl. Light car with one horse (Einspann), from Mariazell to Wildalpen, 8 fl. ; if taken only to AYeichsel- boden, -5 fl. ; Zweispann to Wildalpen, 15 fl. Einspann fi'om Wildalpen to Hieflau, 6 fl. Zweispann, 12 fl, Einspann from Hieflau to Eisenerz, 2 fl., or (?) sometimes more. These charges include toUs and trinkgeld to the driver. The distances here given are approxi- mate. The usual reckoning is somewhat higher. The route here pointed out is well suited for tourists smitten with the plague of haste, who wish within a very short time to see as much as possible of the scenery of this district without quit- ting a carriage road. Leaving Vienna by the express train at 7 a.m., they ar- rive at Miirzzuschlag at 10'14 a.m., and may easily reach ]\Iariazell in time to see the church and something of the neighbourhood on the same evening, es- pecially if they have taken the precau- tion of ordering a carriage in advance from the post-master at Mlirzzuschlag. On the following evening they may, "^ith an early start, reach Eisenerz. The pedestrian may with advantage vary the route as is suggested below. This excur- sion is frequently made by tourists from Vienna on their way to theSalzkam- mergut, following the Enns through the defile of Gesause, and taking the road to Ischl by Steinach and Aufsee. Li summer the inns on this line are some- times crowded, and when ladies are in question it is prudent to order rooms in advance. The scenery of the Upper Miirzthal is throughout very picturesque, and nu- merous forges preserve the local charac- teristic of the valleys of Upper Styria. The first place of any note is KapeUen, about 5 m. from Miirzzuschlag. Stand- ing at the SW. base of the Eaxalp, a glen runs eastward below the steeper part of that mountain to a pass locally called Gschaid (3,526'), commanding a fine view, and connecting the Mili'zthal with the Schwarzau. By the track, which is scarcely passable for carriages, there is an easy walk, or ride, toEeich- enau (See Ete. H. where there is a fur- ther notice of the Eaxalp). Another ROUTE B. — MAEIAZELL. 34d glen — Altenherger G-rahen — leads north- ward from Kapellen to the Nasskavip (3,879'), an interesting pass lying be- tween the Eaxalp and the Schneealp (See Ete. H). About 3 m. above Ka- pellen is Neitherg (2,378'), the chief place in the upper valley of the Miirz, and resi- dence of the Director of the Government iron-works in the valley. The inn is said to be tolerably good. The noble fifteenth century church belonged to a suppressed Cistercian monastery, found- ed herein 1327. The structure of the roof, the wood carving, and the tombs of the abbots, deserve at least the pas- sing notice of the traveller. This is the most convenient point for ascending the Schneealp — not to be confounded with the loftier Schneeberg, which lies alto- gether in Austria, while this is on the Styrian side of the boundary. Like the Eaxalp and Schneeberg, this is rather a high plateau rising into numerous emi- nences than a single mountain. The highest point is called the IVinclhtrg (6,213'). The traveller may take the summit on his way to the Nassthai (Ete. H) ; but, considered as an inde- pendent excui'sion, the ascent is in no respect so intei^esting as that of the Veitschalp noticed below. From Neu- berg the road ascends gently for 6 m., between the steep limestone rocks that enclose the valley on either side, to Milrzsfeg (2,499'), with a clean and tolerably comfortable inn (Post), very finely situated at the point where the main stream of the Miirz, whose general course from hence to Kapellen is but little S. of E., is formed by the con- fluence of two mountain torrents. The more considerable of these, which pre- serves the name Murz, descends nearly due S. through a remarkable gorge no- ticed below, while the other branch flows in the same direction as the united stream through the JDohreinthal, which originates on the N. side of the Veitschalp (6,478'). This is most con- veniently ascended from Miirzsteg, It will be observed that the Miirz in its coiirse from this point to Mitterdorf on the railway, above Bruck, makes fully the half circuit of this extensive moun- tain, from which project many lateral ridges. In addition to many of the lo- cal species of the limestone region of Upper Styria, Viola alpina is found in great abundance on the upper plateauof the mountain. Pedestrians may choose between three passes leading to Mariazell, but the carriage road ascends through the Do- breinthal. The scenery is, however, extremely agreeable, and offers a variety of interesting points of view. The car- riage moimts slowly, passing the ham- lets of Dobrein and Niederalpl. The latter, at which there are large smelt- ing works, gives its name to the pass of Niederalpl (3,994'), which here di\ddea the basin of the Salza from that of the Mur. The view of the crags of the Hochschwab, the highest and boldest summit of this district, is unexpectedly fine. A rapid descent on the W. side leads down to Wegscheid (2,750'), so called from the junction of this road with the post-road from Bruck to Maria- zell, noticed in Ete. C. The latter road is now followed along the stream of the Aschhach, which descends gently to its junction with the Salza at the Imperial Foundry (noticed below). Eather more than 3 m, farther is Mariazell (2,744'), one of the most renowned sanctuaries of Europe. While other spots of the same kind see a gra- dual diminution in the resort of pil- grims, the simple faith which survives among the people of South Germany annually sends hither processions whose united numbers are said to reach 100,000. Although every second house is an inn, or lodging-house, it is at times diflficult to find a room, especially in the first week of July, and throughout the greater part of August. The best inns are the Lowe, Post, AVeintraube, Greif, and Goldne Krone. A solitary traveller wishing to spend a few days here will be better off at the inn at the Gusswerk (see below), Cjuite as good as any of those in the town, where he meets in the evening engineers and other Intel- 850 STYRIAN ALPS. § 54. MARIAZELL DISTRICT. ligent gentlemen connected with the direction of the Foundry. The first object visited by strangers at JMariazell is the church. Only the great central tower, 270 ft. in height, now re- mains of the building founded in the second half of the fourteenth century by Louis I. of Hungary, to whom the sanc- tuary first owed its wealth and wide re- nown. Two centuries before that date a priest brought into the valley a won- der-working image of the Blessed Vir- gin, carved in lime-tree wood. Unlike most other images of the kind, tradition has not attached to this a supernatural origin ; its fame rests upon an unbroken series of authentic miracles continued to the present time. The roof, and a great portion of the interior of the church, was consumed by a great fire in 1827, which almost destroyed the town, and the greater part of the present building is modern. It is well placed, on rising ground, reached by broad steps, and very finely proportioned — 208 ft. long, 70 ft. broad, and 103 ft. high. The Treasui'y contains a valuable collec- tion of royal and imperial gifts. "Within 2 m. of Mariazell is the picturesque Erlaf See, a cliarmingly situated little mountain lake, lying in a hollow "W. of the road to St. Polten (Ete. C). If for nothing else, it deserves a visit for the charm it has exerted over so many Ger- man poets and artists. The boundary between Styria and Austria runs through the lake, which sends its waters to the Danube through the Erlafthal (farther noticed in Ete. G). Many pleasant walks may be found in the environs of Mariazell, for all the surround- ing heights command fine ^-iews. The GusswerJc, or Imperial Foundry, stand- ing near the Salza, more than 3 m. below Mariazell, is one of the most im- portant establishments of the kind in Europe. It includes three smelting- houses, and all the necessary appliances for the manufacture of iron from the ore (carbonate of iron, or sparry* iron), found abundantly in the neighbourhood. The annual produce is about 15,000 tons of manufactured metal. The Guss- werk has recently been leased by the Government to a company. It is said that the manufacture of iron ordnance has been discontinued, but the stranger who wanders from the beaten track, through the defile of the Salza, may yet find, here and there, large cannon- balls, though he is no longer likely to hear the firing of heavy guns, which used formerly to produce a startling effect in an uninhabited Alpine val- ley. [As mentioned above, the pedestrian has a choice of two paths from Miirzteg to Mariazell besides the carriage road. The shorter but less interesting of these leaves the road at the hamlet of Nie- deralpl in the Dobreinthal, and mounts NK\V. to the Buchcdp (4,494'), a pass lying on the E. side of the Tonionalp (5,550'). Bearing to the 1., the path descends to join the road from Frein to Mariazell, mentioned below. The other way is much more interesting, offering scenery of a very wild character. The path follows the main stream of the Mlxrz through a narrow defile between high and precipitous rocks. The name ' Zum Todten Weib ' is locally given to the entire defile, though applied in guide- books only to the waterfall at the upper end. As the defile grows narrower, the path crosses the torrent from side to side by wooden bridges, or is carried along the stream on a platform propped on iron stancheons against the rocky wall. At the upper end is a singular waterfall, formed Ijy a torrent that issues from a cavern in the face of the moun- tain. With the help of a ladder, bor- rowed from an adjoining house, the botanist ma.y reach the mouth of the cavern, where Cortv.sa Matthioli and other Alpine fiowers bloom in profu- sion. Beyond the waterfall the valley opens gradually, and before long the traveller enters the upland basin of Frein, in which four torrents unite their waters to form the Miirz. The hamlet of Frein (2,836'), consisting of a chapel, school-house, and some twenty houses, ! is the dwelling of a little colony ROUTE B. VALLEY OF THE STYRIAX SALZA. asi: 6i wood-clitters, who were placed here to furnish wood and charcoal to the Foundry at Mariazell. The inn, often crowded with pilgrims to that place, is very poor and uninviting. Into the basin of Frein the two chief torrents (of which the longer is called Kalte Miirz), flow from the E. and ENE. ] sides, a lesser stream enters from the , N., and another from a direction rather j S. of W. On the N. side the ground i rises with a gentle slope to the low | ridge dividing this from the uppermost glen of the Salza, while, on the S. side, steep and high rocky ranges shut in the valley, except at the point where the Miirz escapes southward, and carries the drainage in a direction certainly different from that which it would have followed if erosion were the sole agent in determining the relief of the surface. A tolerable road, constructed for the conveyance of timber and charcoal, mounts WSW. along tlie stream to a pass, 3,89-i ft. in height, between the vSeekogel and the Studentalp, and then descends about due "W. till it joins the post-road from Wegscheid, 2^ m. above the Grusswerk, or nearly 6 m. from Ma- riazell. The distances are reckoned from Miirzsteg to Frein 3 hrs. ; thence to 3Iariazell 6 hrs. ; but an active walker will easily complete the walk in 7 hrs., exclusive of halts. A shorter way by 1 hr., from Frein to Mariazell, is by a footpath over the Freinsattel (4,252'). This goes direct to the upper end of the Salza valley, above Mariazell, in- stead of descending to the Grusswerk, and then reascending along the Salza. A guide is quite unnecessary for a tra- veller going from Miirzsteg to Frein over the beaten path by the Todten Weil, but strangers ixnused to find their own way will do well to take a local guide, if they cross the Freinsattel.] The road from Mariazell to Eisenerz follows the valley of the Styrian Salza from a point near its chief source to its junction with the Enns. The scenery is throughout interesting and agreeable, but the pedestrian may take a course in some respects more attractive, by follow- ing the road to Bruck as far as Weg- scheid, and then taking the track over the Kastenriegel (Rte. E) to Weich- selboden. The road to that place is now sufficiently good for light carriages, but narrow in places. Turning to the rt. at the Gusswerk, where the post- road to Bruck ascends the glen of the Aschbach, it follows the Salza to Gretith (2,215'), a distance of about 7^ m. The village inn is kept by a fisherman who, in default of other luxuries, can usually supply a dish of excellent trout. As the road advances towards a defile which gives a passage to the river, but leaves no space for the road, the latter turns away from the stream, and mounts a rather steep ascent to a sort of neck of land more than 600 ft. above the river, called the Hals (2,788'). As the river flows for some way nearly due S. through the defile, while the road has ascended westward, the traveller, on reaching the summit, is separated from the Salza by a rocky knoll of con- siderable mass. Eound this the stream flows through a cleft so deep as to be completely concealed, and in order to join its rt. bank at the lower end of the deflle, the road turns sharply to the 1., and descends rapidly along a stream that drains the Radraer glen to Weichselhoden (2,U0'), af)out 18 m. from Mariazell, the centre of a com- munity whose houses are scattered among the adjoining glens. There is a rough little mountain inn here, sup- plying a few clean beds, and tolerable food, at prices that in Tyrol would be thought exorbitant. The ruggedness of the surrounding mountains, and the savage and inhospitable aspect of the sombre defiles that give access to this enclosed basin, confer a wild and almost dreary aspect on the place, that recalls spots higher by 3,000 or 4,000 ft., lying in the interior recesses of the great chain of the Alps. To XE. is the im- passable defile of the Salza above men- tioned, and in the opposite direction the river descends to the Enns through a gorge of not much less menacing aspect. SE. is the opening of the 352f STYllIAN ALPS. § 54. MARIAZELL DISTRICT. gavage glen of the Holle described in Ete. E, where there is also a notice of the ascent of the Ilochschwah. The road from Weichselboden to Wildalpen has been much improved, and need not cause anxiety even to nen'ous travellers. In the gorge, where the rocks close on either side of the stream, a massive dam (Klause) has been constructed to assist in floating timber down the stream, and a short tunnel permits the passage of the road. Amid fine and varied scenery, the traveller advances through a long defile, overlooked on the S. side by crags that belong to the Hochschwab, and on the opposite by an outlier from the Hochstadt (6,266'), to Gschoder (1,923'), at the opening of the Anten Graben, a short glen, or hollow, running into the range of the Hochschwab. The ascent may be made from this point (see Rte, E). The valley opens but a little here and there, but maintains its character as an almost uninhabited defile throughout the re- mainder of the way to Wildalpen {1,1%!'), nearly 12 m. from Weichselbixlen. This name is now generally given to St. Barbara, one of several hamlets that make up the com- mune of Wildalpen. The most popubms of these, locally called Klein-Wildalpen, laid down (fn some maps as Wildalpen, is fully 2 m. away from the Salza in the adjoining glen of the Wildalpenthal (Rte. E). W. of the bridge, at St. Barbara, is a large chiirch, with a few good houses, and, finally, an excellent country inn, kept by Zisler, a favourite resort of toxirists from Vienna. Al- though the suiTOunding mountains do not afford scope for arduous excursions, they are steep enough to allow of plea- sant, and even difficult climbing, while the scenery is ever^-n-here agreeable, and often extremely picturesque. The most interesting walks are through the glens that converge towards the Wild- alpenthal, fiu-ther noticed in Ete. E. Besides the charming path direct to Eisenerz, there is a track which leads from Klein-Wildalpen to Lainbach (see below) by a solitary inn called Auf der Wacht, descending to the Enns through the Sckwabelthal. This way does nt t appear to be very interesting ; it is cer- tainly more laborious, and not much shorter, than that by the carriage-road. It is called a walk of 7 hrs. (probably too much) ; but Lainbach may be reached by road in o|- hrs. very moderate walk- ing. In following the road from Mariazell to AVildalpen, the traveller has con- stantly had on his rt. hand a range of craggy calcareous mountains, that form the line of botmdary between Styria and Austria, but no frequented path leads across that barrier. In the lower part of the Salza valley the prevailing rock is a very friable sandstone, often passing into a coarse conglomerate, through which the mountain torrents cut deep trenches. About 4^ m. below Wildalpen the Salza receives a con- siderable torrent from the Lasdjwthcd, a long lateral valley that opens to ENE. At its head rises the Diirren- stein (6.U2'). By the AV. side of that mountain a country road leads from the Lassingthal to the valley of the Ips, a little above Gossling (Rte. E), while another pass S.E. of the Diirren- stein leads to the sources of that river on the S. side of Oetscher. Some 5^ m. lower down on the Salza a much more frequented road descends into the valley from the Mendling Pass (Rte. F), which offers a shorter and easier way to the Ips, and so to Waidliofen, or else to Pechlaru on the Danube through the Erlafthal. Close to the junction is the hamlet of Pa/fau, with a poor roadside inn, where there is a choice between two roads leading to the Enns. That on the rt. hand follows the rt. bank of the Salza to its junction with that river, and enters the Ennsthal immediately below licifiiny (§ 47, Rte. A). That is the shortest way for the traveller in- tending to descend the valley of the Enns ; Init, if bound for Hieflan, he should prefer the l.-hand road at Palfau, which is rather shorter, and decidedly more interesting. This follows for some miles the 1. bank of the Salza, but on noUTE C. ST. POLTEN. 353 reaching the Gamsbach torrent, -which descends to NW. from a lateral glen, the road turns away from the Salza, and mounts SE. for some distance along the tributary stream, then turning to SW. till it attains the shoulder of the mountain that lies in the angle between the Enns and the Salza, commanding a fine view on the S. side. Descending the slope, the road reaches Lainbach, charmingly situated in an opening of the Ennsthal. Here the traveller joins the high-road leading from Steyer to Hiefiau{% 47, Ete. A). The road thence to Eisenerz is described in § 53, Ete. H. [The village of Gams, on the Gams- bach, is an interesting spot to the geolo- gist, for the sake of its fossiliferous bed of cretaceous age, apparently of the same period as the well-known deposits in the valley of Gosau. In the upper part of the glen, on the flanks of the Brandenstcin (not to be confounded with the Brandstein nearer Eisenerz), is a fine ice-cavern, of the class that has attracted so much attention since the publication of ]VIr, Browne's well-known work on the ice-caves of France and Switzerland. It could doubtless be reached directly from Wildalpen.] EOUTE C. VIEXNA TO BRUCK, BY ST. POLTEX AND MARIA2ELL. Austrian English miles miles St. Polten (by rail) . 8 37i LUienfeld . . 3 U Turnitz . 2 9i Annaberg . . 2 MariazeU . H 16i Wegscheid . . 2 9i Seewiesen . • n 8| Aflenz . . 2 Bruck an der Mur . n r>i 26| 127 The ordinary way from Vienna to Mariazell, before the opening of the rly. over the Semmering, was that here indicated ; but as the road from Miirzzugschlag is 17 m. — and that from Bruck 10 m. — shorter than the old road from St. Polten, the great majority of travellers prefer either of those routes. The present road, however, passes through some fine country, and may well be chosen by a traveller already acquainted with the road from Miirz- zuschlag. Instead of going from Vienna to Bruck through Mariazell, many now go to Mariazell by Bruck, and as the road between those places is taken by all travellers from Mariazell to Gratz and Lower Styria, it is much frequented, and is traversed daily by a carriage carrying the post, which employs 9^ hrs. to accomplish 39 m. ! Two quick trains go daily from Vienna by the Westbahn (the rly. lead- ing to Salzburg, Munich, and Paris) in 1|- hr. to St. Polten, while four omnibus trains employ from 2 to 2^ hrs. St. Fblteoi (Inns : Lowe ; Hirsch) is a good specimen of an Austrian provin- cial town. It stands on the verge of an ancient lake-basin filled up by the detritus brought down by the Traisen, along which lies the road to Mariazell. The road and the valley keep a direc- tion nearly due S., and the hills gra- dually rise on either side as the former passes the opening of the lateral vaUey of the Gelse, through which a post- 354 STYRIAN ALPS. §54. road runs eastward, by Haiufeld and Altenmarkt, to Leobersdorf, nearWiener- Neustadt through a natural trough ■which seems to mark the northern boundary of the Alps of Lower Austria. The village of Traisen stands jiist above the junction of the Gelse, and a few miles farther S. is the post-station of LiUenfekl (1,167'). Hero stands one of the finest of the ancient Austrian abbeys, founded in 1202 by Leopold of • Babenberg. The greater part of the ' church is ancient. The little town, lo- | cally called Marktel, is ^ m. distant ' from the abbey. A few m. above Li- ^ lienfeld the valley forks. The main i branch of the valley is that which as- cends SE. to Hohenherg, and thence to St. Mgid\ but the post-road follows the western branch to Tiirnitz, a busy little place, above which the head of the valley is seen en- closed by mountains of moderate height. A rather long ascent leads to the summit of the Annahcrg (3,0-43'), which is the name of the pass connecting the head waters of the Traisen with those of the Erlaf, and of the hamlet at the summit, where stands the post-house and a pilgrimage church. A slender torrent descends from Aunaberg to join the Erlaf, and it would seem natural that the road should follow the course of the latter stream to Mariazell. But the Erlaf flows through so narrow a de- file that it was found more advisable to cross two intermediate ridges before approaching its banks at Mitterbach above the defile. Between the Joachims- herg (2,719'), which is the first ridge crossed by the road, and the Joscphsherg (3,136') which succeeds it, the traveller descends to the little village of WieJier- hrucke with a country inn. Near at hand is the waterfall of the Lassing, considered the finest in Lower Austria. In three successive falls the torrent descends 412 ft., but the volume of j water will not satisfy those accustomed | lo the grandeur of the greater cascades j cf the Alps. On descending from the j Josephsberg the road reaches the Erlaf, j end the boundarv of Stvria, at Mitter- ' MARIAZELL DISTRICT. bach, near the Erlaf See (Rte. B), and then traverses the scarcely perceptible ridge that separates the lake from Mariazell, described in the last Kte. [There is a country road from the eastern branch of the Traisen valley, longer and more hilly than the last, which also leads to Mariazell, It passes by the X. and W. sides of the GoUer, from which mountain the Styrian Salza takes it.s source. The road follows the course of the infant stream to Maria- zell.] The road from Mariazell to Bruck as far as Wegscheid has been incidentally noticed in the last Ete. At the Guss- wei'k it quits the valley of the Salza to ascend through the glen of the Asch- bach. The way at first is SE., but after passing the point where the country road from Frein descends through a hollow in the hills on the 1., the post- I road turns S., and ascends to Wegschcid j (2,750'). Herp the road to Miirzsteg, described in the last Etc., ascends to SE., while that to Bruck bears to SSW. A few hundred yards beyond the post- station the track from Weichselboden over the Kastenriegel (Ete. E) falls into the high-road, which winds gently up-hill, passing above the mining village of Knappendorf, seen on the 1. hand in the hollow at the head of the valley. A rather long continuous ascent leads to the plateau of the Seeberg, a little below the summit of which is Brandhof (3,663'), the alpine dwelling of the late Archduke John, now the property of his son, the Count of Meran. The plain building, intermediate in character between a cottage and a villa, has not much to attract attention save a hall with statues in sandstone, a small octa- gonal chapel, and a hunting saloon con- taining some memorials and trophies of the chase. The affectionate reverence j felt for the late Archduke by the whole population of the mountain provinces of Austria, and which must be in some de- gree shared by everv mountaineer, gives an interest to this spot which it would not otherwise command. Soon after passing it the traveller reaches the ROUTE D. EISEXEKZ TO THE FliAUENMAUERHOPILE. OOO summit of the Seeberg (4,099'), here forming the watershed between the Salza and the Mur. The pedestrian leaves the road, •which winds downward by slopes to the rt., and follows a steep path that rejoins the road close to the village and post-station of Seeunesen (3,017'). This place, which stands near the head of the Seetkal, also called See- wiesenthal, is finely situated, and might be head-quarters for many pleasant ex- cursions; but the inn at the post, though tolerable, is not attractive. The most considerable excursion is the ascent of the Hochschwab noticed in Ete. E. Nu- merous paths lead through upland glens, and over the ridges dividing this from the adjoining valleys. The railway sta- tion at Mitterdorf on the Miirz (Ete. A) may be reached through an eastern branch of the valley, called Stuhmingthal. Below Seewiesen are two small lakes which produce a fine eflfect when seen backed by the bold crags of the Hoch- schwab. On the S. side Seewiesen is separated from Aflenz, the next post- station, by a detached mountain, called on. many maps Windgrube. The true name of the mountain is Mitteralp (5,868'), and the name Windgrube pro- perly belongs to a singular hole or cleft of unknown depth that opens near the summit. It is remarked by the hunters that chamois, which abound in the neighbourhood, shun the approaches to this hollow, doubtless connected with internal fissures that penetrate the mountain. The road from Seewiesen makes a circuit round the E. side of the Mitteralp. Near Grasnitz the stream of the Stuhmingthal joins the Seebach, and soon after the road reaches Aflenz (2,498'), a neat little town with a fair inn (bei Karlon?). It has a very ancient church, part of which is said to date from 875. A short distance below Aflenz the Seebach merges its name in that of the ThMbach, which torrent descends in a SE. direction from the W. side of the Hochschwab through a very picturesque glen. The streams meet at TJibrl {\^9W). Extensive iron- works stand here in a very picturesque position, in the jaws of a gorge where the rocks close together, and the ruins of Schachenstein stand on a height above. This was one of the castles built to protect the various approaches to Mariazell from hostile incursions. Near the road descending hence towards the Miirz is a bathing establishment called Steinerhof, in a pretty position said to offer tolerably comfortable rooms, and reasonable prices. About 9 m. from Aflenz the road descends into the valley of the Miirz opposite Kapfcti- berg (Ete. A). It is necessary to cross the river in order to pass through the town, and then return to the rt. bank in order to follow the old post-road from Vienna to Bruck an der Mur (Ete. A.\ EorTE D. EISENERZ TO BRUCK. BY THE FRArEN'- MAUEEHOHLE. This is one of the most interesting walks to be made in the district iere described. It has the peculiarity of leading the traveller from one fine i valley to another, through the finest cavern of Styria, which has openings both on the E. and W. sides, so as to form a natural tunnel tlirough the mountain. It is absolutely necessary to take a guide well acquainted with the cavern, and provided with torches. Kaspar Domminger and Josef Haid of 356 STYRIAN ALPS. § 54. MARIAZELL DISTRICT. Eisenerz are recommended as guides. Their charge for visiting the cave is 2 fi., besides the price of the torches. Approaching from the Tragosthal, the traveller must apply to a farmer named Bunger. He kjaows the cavern well, and is proAnded with lights. His charge is fl. including torches. Franz Spath of Aflenz also knows the way. The effect of this, as of all large caverns, is much enhanced by a few Eengal lights, which the traveller should bring ■with him. As the temperature is very low, and the cavern is traversed by currents of cold air, it is necessary to be provided with extra covering. About 8 hrs. are required for the ascent from Eisenerz to the western opening of the cave, and fully 7 hrs.' steady walking from the eastern opening to Bruck. As at least 1 hr. must be allowed for visiting the interior of the cavern, the day's walk is rather long, and those who wish to have time to enjoy the fine scener}' of the Tragosthal will break the journey at Pichel. Turning to the 1. from the road to Vordernberg (§ 53, Kte. H), at Trofeng, the traveller, soon after leaving Eisenerz, enters the Gsollgrund, one of those short picturesque glens common among limestone mountains, whose compara- tively broad and level floor is enclosed between steep slopes, surmounted by ranges of high and precipitous crags. A wood-cutter's track leads for some way through it, but, although much fine timber has been felled of late years, the pine forest still covers most of the surface. At the upper end, about 2 hrs. from Eisenerz, are the huts of the GsoUalp lying at the W. base of the Frauenwmcer, a steep wall of rock (about 5,800 ft. in height), which bars across the head of the glen. The ridge on the X. side of the Gsollgrund is in truth the W. extremity of the Hoch- schwab range, which extends hence somewhat N. of E. to the Brayidstein (6,542'). On the S. side of the Gsoll- grund is a range of high crags, locally known as Gsollmauer, an outlier from the Hochthurm. The Erauenmauer forms the connecting link between these i ranges. The ascent from the Alp con- ' tinually increases in steepness as the I path, a mere goat-track, passes through the zone of KruinraJiolz, or Pinus I mughus, and mounts a slope of debris I up to the base of the highest cliffs. ! Here three holes or openings in the face of the mountain are seen. The central \ one is the true entrance, 4,707 ft. above the sea. After admiring the fine view of the valley of Eisenerz, backed by I the Kaiserschild and other more distant peaks, the traveller enters the cave. ; He presently turns to the L, and follows I a passage that descends over and among j huge loose blocks. This leads to the j Eiskammer (ice-chamber), a true ice- cave, where all the phenomena that have j of late attracted attention may be ob- I served. It is necessary to return by , the same passage, in order to resume the main path through the cavern. This leads through several lofty halls, whose dimensions cannot be appreciated without more powerful means of light- ing than those provided by the guides. One of these is called the Kirche, another the Hohe Kluft. The latter is said to be from 150 to 190 ft. in height. The path leading through the cavern is nearly ^ m. in length ; it ascends some- what steeply, and in one place with the help of a ladder, so that on reaching the eastern entrance the traveller has attained a height of 5,119 ft. above the sea. The view over the head of the Tragosthal, unfolded on issuing from the mouth of the cavern, is very striking in itself, and is enhanced by the abrupt- ness of the transition. The Fraiien mailer hohle appears to lie along the junction of the Muschelkalk, with an underlying limestone, also of triassic age ; and to the nature of the superincumbent rock is doubtless to be attributed the almost complete absence of stalactites. The caA-ern was known in the seventeenth century, as is proved by various initials with the date 1605, found in the Hohe Kluft, and still visible. It was afterwards lost sight of, and only rediscovered in 1823. Some ROUTE E. — TOUR OF THE HOCHSCHWAB- 357 persons who explored one of the nume- rous lateral passages several years ago, descended a long way till stopped by water, beyond which the continuation of the cavern was seen, and the noise of a waterfall heard at a lower level. The Tragosthd has already been spoken of as one of the finest valleys of this district. At its upper end it divides into three short glens, of which the longest is the Jassing G-rahen, into which the traveller now descends. A path, said to be difficult, but which must lead through very fine scenery, mounts from the Jassing Graben, some- what E. of N., and crosses the ridge of the Brandstein, descending on the oppo- site side by the Sieben Seen to Wildal- pen. The Jassing Graben may also be reached from, the Gsollgrund by a path over the Neuwaldeck, avoiding the Frauenmauerhohle. In descending the valley the traveller passes by the Grilnsee, and leaves on the 1. hand Oberort (2,485'), the highest hamlet of Tragos. It stands at the base of a group of craggy summits, nearly 6,000 ft. in height, at the N. end of a level basin, between 2 and 3 m. in length. At the S. end of this tract stands Pk-hd (2.468'), also called Orossdorf, the chief place in upper Tragos, with an old church, and a decent country inn (bei Peintinger). [From the Griinsee a path mounts about due W,, crosses the ridge of the HochThurm, and descends to Vordernberg.] The next village below Pichel is Oberdorf (2,155'), where the torrent, which has hitherto kept a direction but little E. of N., turns about due p]. [Two paths here diverge from the valley ; one leads SW. to Trofajach (§53. Ete. H) ; the other about due S. to the valley of the Miir, a little below Leobeu.] At Si. Katharein (2,451'?) the valley bends to the rt. towards SE., and a country road leads along the Lamrngbach (as the torrent is called in the lower part of the valley), and about 7 m. lower down enters the valley of the Miirz, 1 m. above Bruck. RorTE K EISENERZ TO BRUCK. TOUR ON FOOT BY THE HOCHSCHWAB. In the last Ete. a very direct and very interesting way from Eisenerz to Bruck has been pointed out. The mountaineer will, however, desire to choose a route which will bring him into closer acquaintance with the higher summits, and especially with the Hoch- schwab, which attracts him, not alone by its superior height, but by the bold crags which it presents on every side. Much of the finest scenery may be taken in a short tour of 2^ or 3 days from Eisenerz to Bruck. Combining this with the last Etc., it will be seen that a traveller pressed for time may complete the circuit in 4 days from Bruck, whither he vnW return, if favoured by weather, after enjoying a constant succession of fine scenery. A practised mountaineer may usually find his own way in this district with the aid of occasional guidance from herdsmen, but in attempting to cross such a mountain as the Hochschwab he i might encounter serious difficulties, 1 The writer does not know of any good i guide in the valley of the Salza, but j many men are to be found who know well the ordinary paths. Franz Spath I and Schuster Lenes of Aflenz. and Peter ^b^ STYRIAN ALPS. § 54. MARIAZELL DISTRICT. ^ JJruneffger of Seewiesen are recom- luerided as guides for the Hoch Schwab. Though a very short and easy day's ■walk, the path from Eist-nerz to Wild- alpen over theEisenerzer Hohe should on no account he omitted. The distance is commonly reckoned 7 hrs. ; but 6^ hrs. are amply sufficient, A guide is not necessary to anyone used to find his way among mountains. In describing the rfjad from Eisenerz to Hieflau, re- ference was made to the Leopoldsteiner See, which is shut out from view from the road by a low intermediate ridge. This charming lake occupies the lower end of a glen that runs deep into the mass of the Brandstein, The entire glen has been converted into a preserve for game by the proprietor, Prince Lichtenstein, and it contains no habita- tions, except a gamekeeper's lodge at Seeau, above the lake, and a few herds- men's huts. The ordinary way is to follow the Hieflau road for about a mile before turning aside into the road that leads to Seeau, but it is shorter to fol- low a track that turns to the 1. and winds gently up-hill, just as you leave the town of Eisenerz. After rounding the corner of the hill, where you lose sight of the town, you descend a few paces before reaching a little wayside oratory, and then follow a pleasant shaded track that still descends gently (in all about 200 ft.) until it joins the carriage -road lead- ing to the keeper's lodge at Seeau (about 1,960'). This stands near the head of the flat that extends more than a mile above the present limits of the lake. The scenery here is not grand, but sin- gularly charming, Nothing is wanting in colour or form, in the union of fresh- ness and life with perfect quiet, that poets dream of, but do not find, in the valleys of Thessaly or Arcadia, From the Seeau the ascent commences by a very rough wheel-track (made, as it would seem, for conveyance of timber) up a partially wooded slope. There is a short cut, very rough and steep, and easy to miss, so that the lonely travel- ler does better to keep to the track, which winds far to the 1., returning at a much higher level. Whichever coviBe be taken, the traveller, after ascending at least 1,600 ft., finally reaches the summit of a projecting promontory of rock, flat at the top, and forming a plea- sant park-like plateau, with scattered clumps of trees. The track bears east- ward, descending a few feet till it reaches the verge of the plateau, when it turns sharply to the I., and follows a sort of ledge along the extremely steep slope of the Zangenkopf The rock scenery here rises to grandeur. The track, which, though quite safe, is in places guarded by a handrail, overlooks a deep cleft, beyond which rise tiers of limestone precipices, that enclose the head of the Leopoldstein glen, cro^medi by the summit of the Brandstein. The botanist, who may collect a great many rare plants throughout this walk, will be especially interested by seeing the very rare fern, Asplenium fissum, grow- ing abundantly on the slopes of debris above the track. This mounts gently, nearly due N., to a gap that appears from below as if it were the summit of the pass, but is found to le;id into an enclosed basin called Erzboden, where stand some herdsmen's huts. Unless it be to seek milk, or guidance in foggy weather, the traveller need not approach them, as the track leaves them to the rt. The final ascent is easy. About 200 ft. below the actual summit, a stunted sycamore tree is seen at an unusual elevation, and a few minutes after the traveller reaches the summit-level of the Eisene-rzer Hohe (4,760'). In de- scending it is best to keep to the track ; the ground is so rough and broken that time is lost in attempting short cuts. At a point where the path divides, the 1. hand course must be taken by those going to Wildapen, as the rt. hand track leads to an alp. The general direction to be followed is henceforth nearly due N. The descent is for some way both steep and rough, btit nowhere difficult. The path crosses to the rt. bank of a little torrent, and then along the ravine locally called Schreyer. The steep part of the way comes to an end at a farm^ajb ROUTE E. — ASCENT OF THE HOCHSCHWAB. 859 the upper end of an enclosed mountain basin, wherein stands the hamlet of Klein-Wildaljpen. A gentle descent from the farm leads to the flat bottom of the basin, but Klein- Windalpen is j passed at a considerable distance to the 1., while the traveller keeps to the E. side, till, after crossing the torrent, he falls into the good road leading from that place to the Salza. This passes through a narrow gorge, almost equal in beauty to any of the other scenes pas- sed through oai the way. The torrent, which has suddenly grown to import- ance, being fed by copious springs from the base of the mountains on either side, rushes along the rt. hand, and it is almost with regret that the traveller reaches its junction with another stream from the glen of the Sieben Seen, and, after crossing to the rt. bank of the united torrent, descends to the main road, which here runs at a j considerable height above the Salza. A j few minutes more take him to Zisler's | comfortable inn (Rte. B). i The traveller who contents himself | with making the toiir of the Hochschwab without intending to reach the upper part | of the mountain, cannot do better than , keep to the road along the Salza as far j as AVeichselboden (see Rte. B), and fol- , low the track thence to Wegscheid. I This lies through a singularly wild glen ; called Die Rolle, a preserve for chamois formed by the late Archduke John, now owned by his son. A road, once pas- sable for light carriages, but now cut up by mountain torrents, leads through the | lower half of this glen, and then up a i slope on the traveller's 1. hand to a pass ' called Kastenricgd (3,556'), whence he descends through forest, and at last over meadows, through a little glen that opens into the Aschbachthal, a few hundred yards above Wegscheid, on the road from Mariazell to Bnick (Rte. C). This point is reached in 3 hrs. from Weichselboden ; and it is a pleasant walk of 2^ hrs, more to Seewiesen. The writer passed in very bad weather, but it appeared to him that the finest i scenery of the Holle is in the uppermost ' branch of the glen, which bears to the rt., where the ascent of the Kastenriegel is commenced. Seewiesen lies on the other side of the ridge, and doubtless the keepers are acquainted with a path across it which would be steep but much more interesting than the easy and cir- cuitous course by the Kastenriegel. The ascent of the Hochschuab { 7,44:1') is, in various ways, an interesting ex- cursion. Being the highest siimmit in the Alps east of the Hoch Thor, it fairly overlooks most of the surround- ing ranges, and the view reaches north- ward to the valley of the Danube, and eastward beyond the frontier of Hun- gary. The botanist is rewarded by finding most of the rare plants of this region that are enumerated in § 53, Rte. I ; and the mountaineer will find craggy heights on a grander scale than anywhere in the neighbouring Alps, unless it be in the Johnsbachthal. The usual course is to sleep at some herds- man's or gamekeeper's hut on the mountain. An active walker, who can ac/»omplish a long excursion with few and short halts, may, however, take the summit on his way from the valley of the Salza, and descend on the other side to Seewiesen or Aflenz within the day. For this purpose he should sleep at "Weichselboden, and make the ascent from that place. The best way is by the Hohe Ring (5,283'), a singular cir- cular hollow in the mountain (reached from the Holle glen), where the sports- men are posted for the Treibjagd, whilf numerous herds of chamois are driven by the keepers from the surrounding heights into the enclosure. Thence a rather steep path leads to the summit. There is an easier but less interesting track, practicable on horseback, which was made at the expense of the late Archduke John. The panorama in- cludes all the best-known peaks of the Alps east of T^toI, the Dachstein, the Hoch Golling, Grossglockner, Ter- glou, &c. The top of the mountain is a plateau of considerable extent, rifted by deep gashes that form as many ravines, and, in consequence, the valleys 3 GO STYRIAN ALPS. §54. MARIAZELL DISTPwICT. surroumling the mountain are all con- cealed from the actual summit. About 6A- hrs. are allowed for the ascent from Weichselboden ; but in this district the tourist is supposed to be a tardigrade auimal. Starting from Wildalppn, tlie shortest -way is by Gschoder (Rte. B), halfway to "Weichselboden. The writer was there informed by a local guide that the way to the summit lies through the Antengral 'Cn, Schaubach asserts that the opening of that glen is parsed on the 1. hand, and that the way is by the Antenkahr. It is reckoned to be shorter by ^ hr. than the way from Weichselboden. A longer way, which involves passing a night on the moun- tain, is by the Slehcn Seen. This is a group of tarns, lying at the head of the wild glen locally called Hollenmeister, which is passed on the 1. hand as the traveller ascends from Wildalpen to the hamlet of Klein-Wildalpen. The head of that glen is enclosed by the crags of the ridge connecting the Brandstein with the Hochschwab. It is possible to follow the ridge to the summit of the latter mountain, but the distance is considerable, and the ground said to be verv' rough. It is also possible to descend from the ridge S. of the Sieben Seen either into the head of the Tra- gosthal, or to that of the Ilgcnthal. It is through the latter valley that the main branch of the Thorlbach descends to meet the Seebach at Thorl, below Aflenz (Ete. C). The chief place is St. JJgen, with iron-works and quarries. In case of need, the traveller may doubt- less find there tolerable night-quarters. The Hochschwab is accessible from an upper branch of the Ilgenthal called Traunwiesen. By one or other of the paths here enumerated the tour of the mountain is completed. Route F. waidhofen on the ips to maeiazkll. the oetscheb. No reliable information as to distances. The valley of the Ips, also written Ipps, or Ibbs, deserves to be enumerated among the agreeable approaches to the Alps surrounding Mariazell. To the traveller who wishes to spend a few days amid pleasing scener}', in a valley little haunted by tourists, it will be no objection that the Ips is one of the most sinuous streams in the Alps, so that while the distance in a direct line from Waiclhofen to its source at the foot of the Oetscher is not more than 19 miles, the course of the stream must cover quite three times that distance. Waidhofen (Inns : Goldene Schiff, best ; Ochs ; Pflug ; and other) is a thriving little town, with iron-works. The neighbourhood is interesting to geologists because of an island of ser- pentine rock which rises through the overlying secondar}' limestone — belong- ing to the so-called Aptychus forma- tion. On the W. side of the town is a deposit of lignite, worked for fuel, abounding in fossils. Omnibuses run twice a day in 1^ hr. to Aschbach, a station on the line between Vienna and Linz. [Charge for a separate carriage to meet the express train, 4 fl. 50 kr.] Those who wish to take the direct way to Mariazell go due E. by Ipsitz and Gaming (Rte. G), but the more agreeable way for the pedestrian follows the valley of the Ips. The scenery is described as extremely romantic, espe- cially shout Oppjonitz and Holhnstein. At the latter place, where there is a ROUTE G. — PECHLARN TO MARIAZELL. 361 decent inn, the Ips approaches near to the valley of the Enns, and a road crosses a low pass to Wei/er (§ 47, Ete. A), which is only about 6 m. distant. A good car- riage-road follows the 1. bank of the Ips from Hollenstein to St. Georgen. [This latter place may be reached from Waidhofen in much less time than along the course of the river by a road that leads about due S. from Ipsitz.] Fol- lowing the upward course of the Ips for some 3 miles, the road and the valley turn abruptly southward, and follow that direction as far as GossUng, where there is the best inn in the valley, kept by Reichenpfader. Here the frequented road from Eeifling on the Enns, which crosses the Mendling pass (see Ete. C), enters the valley of the Ips, and ascends KE., first by the rt., then by the 1. bank to Lnnz. This place lies in a hollow enclosed by mountains, not high, but very bold and picturesque. A short glen containing four small lakes ex- tends southward to the crags of the Durrenstcin (6,142'). At Lunz the pe- destrian leaves the road, and follows the stream for several miles eastward ; but on approaching the "W. base of the' Oetfecher the valley again tiirns S.,and'a" road leads along it to Lnngau, where there is a tolerable inn. From hence the road mounts to Neuhaus, at the head of the main branch of the Ips. There is there a large but uninviting inn, chiefly in- tended for the accommodation of pil- grims. A track leads thence across the ridee of the ZelUr Rain, and past the Erfaf See to Mariazell (Rte. B). The ascent of the Oetscher (6,320') is best made from LaJcenhof, lying in a little lateral glen whose torrent joins the Ips about a mile below Langau. The position of this mountain, which lies farther north, and more detached from the central range of the Eastern Alps, than any summit of nearly equal height, makes it admirably suited for a panoramic view, in which the low country towards the Danube is finely contrasted with the rugged summits of the Dachstein, Johnsbach, and Hoch- Echwab ranges. The view southward is not nearly so extensive as that from the Hochschwab, but here the spectator sees more of the surroimding valleys, and looks down upon several small lakes. Zealous lovers of distant views pass the night at a comfortless hut (Ochsen- hiitte) ; but, save milk (and sometimes butter), they find no provisions except what they may take with them. Com- manding so extensive a view, and being so easily reached from Vienna, the Oet- scher is a frequent resort of Austrian tourists. A guide-book {Beisehandhuch) to the mountain has been published by Becker, and the panorama has been en- graved by Herr Urlinger, parish priest of Scheibbs. The shortest way from Vienna is that noticed in the next Ete. The Flora of the Oetscher is very inte- resting to botanists not familiar with this region, but by no means equals in variety that of the Hochschwab. EOUTE Or. PECHLAEN TO MAEIAZEIX, BY THE EEXAFTHAL. About 28 m. to Gaming. Thence to Mariazell, 6 to 7 hrs. walking. This is the line of road usually chosen by Austrian tourists -wishing to take the ascent of the Oetscher on their way to !Mariazell. The scenery is not equal to that of the Ips ; but this observation does not apply to the portion of the Erlafthal between Kienberg and JMitter- 362 STYRIAN ALPS. S 54. MARIAZELL DISTPJCT. bach, which, though little frequented, offers very fine scenery. Pechlarn, the next rly. station beyond Mcilk, on the West-bahn, leading from Vienna to Linz, is a very ancient place, mentioned in the Nibelungen Lied as the home of Eiidiger, the noble-minded hero of the second part of that poem. It stands close to the junction of the Erlaf with the Danube. Post-horses are not found above Scheibbs, about 17 m. up the main valley. About 6 m. far- ther, at Kienberg, the Erlaf receives from the SSW. the slender torrent of the Gamingbach, and the carriage-road deserts the course of the greater stream to follow the banks of the latter to Gaming, a very ancient town, with a fine Carthusian monastery dating from the 14th century, which was suppressed by Joseph II. To the regret of all lovers of art, the rich architecture of the edifice, which was handed over to the occupation of peasants, is in progress of degradation and decay. From G-aming a frequented road crosses the low ridge of the Grubberg, and descends to .liinz on the Ips (see last Ete.), only about 9 m. distant. In descending from the G-rubberg another road turns off to the 1., descends to the Ips, and reaches Langau, whence Mariazell may be reached by Neuhaus, as mentioned in last Ete. The pedestrian who intends to ascend the Oetscher on his way to Mariazell need not follow the road across the Grrubberg, there being a much shorter path from G-aming to Lakenhof across the Polzberg. The very interesting way from Kien- berg to Mariazell along the valley of the Erlaf is practicable onl}' on foot. The stream flows for several miles through a rocky defile under the E. and NE. declivity of the Oetscher. Foot-paths lead through it from one isolated farm- house to another, with frequent ascents and descents which lengthen, but in- crease the picturesqueness of the way. It is counted 4 hrs.' walk from Kienberg to a point where a stream descends from the Annaberg (Ete. C) to join the Erlaf. If tempted by the Lassing waterfall (Ete. C), the traveller will quit the banks of the stream to join the road from Annaberg to Mariazell at Wienerbriicke; but otherwise he will follow its banks to the upper end of the defile near to Mitterbach, where he finally joins the road about 4 m. from Mariazell (Ete. B), unless he make a slight detour to visit the Erlafsee. The botanist may find Eanunculus anemonoides of Zahlbruck- ner in lowland pastures in two or three places near the boundary between Aus- tria and Styria, not far from Mitterbach. EouTE H. PAYERBACH TO MARIAZELL, BY THE HOLLEXTHAL. To the inhabitants of Vienna and its neighbourhood the small mountain dis- trict that extends beyond the Styrian frontier between Mariazell and Wiener- Neustadt, and terminates with the com- paratively lofty summit of the Schnee- berg, naturally assumes a degree of im- portance that it cannot possess in the eyes of foreigners. The native who can start by an early train, and return to the streets of the capital at night, after enjoying a day's walk in valleys of thoroughly alpine character, amid sce- nery that here and there approaches the verge of grandeur, may be forgiven if his thankfulness takes the form of ex- aggeration, and if in simple good faith ROUTE H. REICHENAU. 363 he believes the Hollenthal to resemble I the valley of Lauterbrunnen, and calls I Buchberg the Chamouni of Austria. ] The stranger who sees this range from a distance is apt to fall into a contrary ; error. As the mountains are of the , plateau class, though showing very bold j faces of rock in the interior valleys, he I is likely to suppose the scenery to be i tame and ujiinteresting. It is true that i there is nothing here that need detain , long a traveller wishing to visit only ; the most remarkable portions of the j Eastern Alps ; but one who by any mo- tive is induced to spend some time at ' Eeichenau. will find that from that centre he may make a great number of plea- sant expeditions. It is true that the finer scenery is confined witiiin rather , narrow limits, and the pedestrian per- haps does well to adopt the gentle pace dear to the inhabitants, lest he should too soon find that he has left the most j interesting part of his day's walk be- hind him. The best plan for an active i walker, starting from Vienna and bound for Mariazell, is to go on the first day from Buchberg, or the Baumgartner- hiitte, to Eeichenau, crossing the Schnee- , berg (see next Ete.). On the second day he should visit the Hollenthal and the Xasswald, crossing the Xasskamp , to Kapellen ; and on the third he may reach Mariazell by the Todten "Weib and the Freinsattel (Ete. B). i Payerbach (Inns : Mader's Grasthaus, \ clean and reasonable, civil people ; two or three others of less note) is men- tioned in Ete. A as the point where the railway descends from the Semmering , to cross the Sehwarzau torrent. Five > trains daily run between this station and Vienna in about 3 hrs., besides the express, which takes If hr. Omni- buses run from the station to 'Reichenau (1,562'). A few years ago this was a quiet alpine village, prettily situated between ranges of hills that stretch upwards, on one side to the Schneeberg, on the other towards the Eaxalps. The increasing resort of visitors during the summer has led to the construction of hotels, villas, and lodging-houses, partly isolated, partly in the village. The children of the Imperial family pass the summer months in a pretty villa, and near it is the Hotel AVaissnix, a first-class establish- ment, with first-class prices, very prettily situated, and surrounded by pleasure- grounds. In the village is Fischer's Gasthaus, a large building rather better fitted up, and dearer, than Mader's at Payerbach. The Schlosswirthshaus is plain but clean, as is Oberdorfer s inn at Edlach, some way out of the village, on the way towards Prein. The pedestrian going from Payerbach to the Hollenthal, may take a track that turns to the rt. from the road soon after passing under the rly. viaduct, mount a knoll covered vrith fir trees, and follow a pretty path that passes behind the Hotel Waissnix. On reaching the Sehwarzau he may best follow the 1. bank of that stream, till, on approach- ing the Kohlbauer, he returns to join the road. Guides and porters abound at Eeichenau, and even an experienced mountaineer, intending to ascend any of the higher summits, may find occa- sion for their assistance. Paths being numerous, it is often very diificult to choose between them. Some have been long abandoned, and only lead the stranger into diflficidties. The upper portions of the mountains are of plateau character; it is often difficidt to find the way, and quite impossible when clouds come on. Simon Tanzer,Johann Banner, Banner, and Johann Tarrer are recom- mended as guides. The botanist should give a preference to Lorenz Alfons. He lives at Prein, but is sometimes to be heard of at Eeichenau. The tariflf for guides and porters is found at the rail- way-station, and at all the hotels, so that it need not be given here. The ascent of the Schneeberg is noticed in the next Ete. That of the Raxalp is often made, especially by botanists, but the view is not equally extensive. The highest point — Hev.kuppe (6,575') — is on the S. side of the irregular broken mass of the mountain which divides the Sehwarzau from the upper course of the S6-i STYEIAN ALPS. § 54. MARIAZELL DISTRICT. Miirz. The Crrunschacher , whose high- est summit is (t^^t^Jakohskogl (5,797'). adjoins the Eaxalp, on the NE. side, and may almost be considered a part of the same mountain. Both may be most conveniently approached from Prein, or from the road between that place and Eeichenau; but the Griinschacher is also accessible from the Kaiserbrunn in the HoUenthal (see below). There are numerous Sennhutten on these moun- tains, as well as the Schneeberg, whereat strangers seek shelter, either with a view to reach the summit early in the morning, or benighted on their return to the valley. Few of them can oflfer anything besides hay to sleep upon, and milk and butter being sometimes added. The natives not uncommonly make un- reasonable demands on strangers. The best night-quarters for the ascent of the Eaxalp or G-riinschacher are found at the Lichtenstern Alp. Here, at the huts of Sonnleitner and Raxenbauer, coffee, and, occasionally, meat and wine may be found. None of these huts have spring water ; and the people depend on snow-water derived from clefts in the limestone rock. A tolerably good road for light and narrow carriages leads from Eeichenau through the HoUenthal, the distance to the Slngerin, at the junction of the Nassthal, being 3 hrs.' moderate walk- ing, not reckoning halts. About 40 min. above Eeichenau, after passing on the 1. hand the opening of the Preinthal (farther noticed below), the road reaches the large iron- works of Hirschwang (1,671'). Immediately above it the rocks close together on either side of the stream, where a large ' Holzrechen ' is erected to arrest floating timber from the upper valley. This point, which is called Kohlbauer, is the opening of the HoUenthal. In a few minutes the traveller loses sight of the entrance, and finds himself enclosed between steep rocky slopes, which have unfortu- nately, in the lower part of the valley, been almost completely divested of timber. The scenery is very pleasing, and improves as the traveller advances ; but the descriptions given of it are mis- leading. It is true that on both sides of the stream the ranges extending < from the Schneeberg above the 1. bank, and from the Eaxalp on the opposite side, show at intervals very fine crags ; but as these rise alternately on either hand, the defile is nowhere confined be- tween opposing walls of rock, and there is no part of the valley where a mode- rate mountaineer would find the least : difficulty in mounting the slope on one side or the other. After 1^ hr.'s walk from Eeichenau the traveller reaches the Kaiserbrunnen, a copious spring issuing from the base of the Schnee- berg, whose celebrity is much increased l)y the rarity of spring water among the limestone strata of the surroimding mountains. It is intended to conduct the water of this and another spring near Buchberg to Vienna. Near the spring is an indifferent inn, and four or five other houses. A ravine called Schlossalpengraben descends from the Schneeberg to this place, and by that way a steep path mounts to the Baum- gartnerhiitte (see next Ete.). It is a direct way to the summit, but rough and steep, to be recommended only to mountaineers. On the opposite side of the valley a path mounts through the Htaudengrahen to the Griinschacher. The finest scenery of the valley is be- tween the Kaiserbrunnen and the open- ing of the Grosse HoUenthal, a distance of 40 min. on foot, during which the road crosses the stream several (at least three) times. On crossing a streamlet of clear water that issues from a very I narrow cleft on the SW. side of the valley, the traveller perceives that this gives access to a remarkable ' Kessel,' or caldron, enclosed on every side except the narrow opening, by very steep rocks. It may be about 2 m, in ' length, and ^ m. broad. After passing j the streamlet, a path is seen to the 1., i with a finger-post directing the stranger I to the Grosse HoUenthal. It is well j worth while to follow this path for some distance. The enclosure is an ■■ Imperial preserve for chamois, and ROUTE H. — IIOLLENTHAL. 365 with keen eyes the traveller can scarcely | fail to see the animals on the rocky j ledges above him. An extremely steep i hunter's path, attractive to the moun- i taineer, but said to be dangerous after | rain, owing to the fall of detached rocks, leads from the head of the cal- dron to the plateau of the llaxalp. About 1^ hr. above the opening of the G-rosse HoUenthal, on the same side of the main valley, is the opening of a narrow glen or ravine which is not mentioned by German explorers of this district, but seems to offer striking scenery. 20 min. farther, or 2^ hrs. from Reichenau, is the little inn ' Beim Weinzeller.' The accommodation must be very limited, but it has a neat appearance, which is wanting in most of the mountain inns in the valley. Here the valley begins gradually to open. The road makes a circuit along the rt. bank of the Schwarzau, which might be cut off by the pedestrian if there were a continuous path on the opposite side. In ^ hr. more the tra- veller reaches the opening of the com- paratively broad woodland glen of the Nassthal, at a point where the HoUen- thal mounts nearly due N. Close to the junction, on a road that turns WSW. through the Nassthal, is the country inn known as ' Die Singerin.' It supplies necessaries, and good beer ; but is not an attractive hostelry. Here tourists from Eeichenau who intend returning to that place usually halt. The most interesting way hence to Mariazell is through the Nassthal, the scenery of which is decidedly finer than that of the upper end of the HoUen- thal. It is a comparatively short glen, whose torrent is formed by the union of several mountain rivulets at the base of the Schneealp. After flowing ENE. for 6 or 7 miles, it joins the Schwarzau at the Singerin. The entire glen M-as one va|t forest without in- habitants, when, in 1781, the ancestor of Count Hoyos, the proprietor, sum- moned hither an intelligent forester, named George Huebmer, from Gosau, in the Salzkammergut. By conducting a stream of water from the upper basin of the Miirz along the slopes of the Nassthal, he provided an easy and inex- pensive mode of transport, by which heavy logs are floated down to the Hol- lenthal, and thence carried by the Schwarzau to "Wiener Neustadt. A canal from that place to Vienna completes the communication between this remote val- ley and the capital. The colony of workmen summoned by Huebmer from his native district are Protestants, and they have their own clergyman and place of worship at Oberhof, about 1^ hr. above the Singerin. The easiest, and perhaps the most picturesque, way from hence to the valley of the Miirz is by following the main stream of the Nass through a defile to a pass called 2s ass- Jcam'p (3,879'), between the Eaxalp and the Schneealp, whence a path leads down to Kapellen (Rte. B) in aboxit 6 hrs. from the Singerin, or 9 hrs. from Eeichenau, exclusive of halts. Another way is to ascend the Schneealp, and descend thence to Neuberg, in the upper Miirzthal. For that purpose, it would be necessary to sleep at the Singerin, or at an inn ( Engleitner's ?) on the way from that place to Oberhof. The more direct way to Mariazell would be to follow the N W. branch of the Nassthal, by the N. side of the Schneealp, to the head of the glen of the Kalten Miirz, and so to the hamlet of Frein (Rte. B), whence there is a choice of paths lead- ing to Mariazell. Keeping to the main valley of the Schwarzau, the traveller follows the road northward from the Singerin. After about 1 m. the more frequented way turns to the rt. and leads to Gut- tenstein (next Rte.). A less frequented track, practicable for light vehicles, is carried tip the main valley to the village of Schwarzau, chiefly inhabited by wood- cvitters. Before reaching that village, a path turns aside to the 1., and leads very directly, a little S. of W., to the hamlet of Erein. The writer has no particulars as to this path, but it appears to be undoubtedly the most direct course from Reichenau, or Buchberg, to Maria- 366 STYllIAN ALPS. >4. MARIAZELL DISTRICT. zell, which may thus be reached in one day from the Singerin, or from the better inn at Hohbauer, mentioned in the next Ete. The Hollenthal extends north- ward for several miles from Schwarzau. the last village being Bohr (2,028')! Paths lead thence in various directions over the hills to Guttenstein, Hainfeld, &c. At Fichl, about 5 m. below Rohr, another path turns westward, and leads over a low pass to St. Acgid, on the main branch of the Traisen, and a country road, which quits the rt. bank of the Sehwarzau Ig- m. above Pichl, goes to Hohenherg, on the same stream. From St. Aegid, or Hohenberg, the tra- veller may either follow the course of the Traisen to St. Polten, or turn south- ward and reach Mariazell bv the head of the valley of the Salza (Ete. C). It has been seen that the traveller who ascends through the Hollenthal from Eeichenau has a choice among many different paths for reaching Mariazell. There is another course deserves to be here pointed out, and the more so as it passes by a place which many persons may consider the most desirable head-quarters in this neigh- bourhood. This way lies tlirough the Previthal, the opening of which is passed on the 1. hand as the traveller approaches the entrance to the Hollen- thal from Eeichenau. A tolerable road leads to the village of Prein, but for the remainder of the way it is so rough as to be ill fitted except for walking or riding. There is a good country inn (Ecklln's) at the village of Prein, fully 2 hrs. from Eeichenau, and higher by at least 1 ,200 ft. As already mentioned, this is the best starting-point for the ascent of the Eaxalp and the Griin- schacher, and is the home of Lorenz Alfons, a guide who knows the stations for most of the rarer plants in this neighbourhood. Above the village, the track mounts to the summit of the ridge di%'iding this from the valley of the Miirz. The name Gschaid given to the pass (3,526' — or, according to Schultes, 3,300'?) is generic, being com- monly applied in this district to the point where a dividing ridge (or vrnte?' shed), between contiguous valleys, is crossed. The easiest path to the Eax- alp — called Schlangensteig — moimts from the summit of the pass. The descent towards the Miirz, which lies through a short glen called Rax- grahpn, is more gentle than the ascent. Passing the hamlet of Raxen, Kapellen is reached in 3 hrs.' steady walking from Prein. or 5 hrs. from Eeichenau (see Ete. B). EoirrE 1. WIENEE NEUSTADT TO MARIAZELL. THE SCHXEEBEEG. It is a disputed point among tourists from Vienna whether the scenery of the Hollenthal, noticed in last Ete., or that of the valley of Buchberg, on the NE. side of the Schneeberg, be the more attractive. It is easy in fine weather to combine a visit to both places on the way to Mariazell, by crossing the moun- tain that separates them. Those who wish to spare labour will prefer to make the circuit of the mountain by the course noticed below, while the traveller who does not like to quit a carriage-road may see something of the best scenery by the road which leads from "Wiener Neustadt to the Hollenthal through Guttenstein, Those who have already seen the Hollenthal have a choice of ROUTE -THE SCHXEEBERG. 367 Bereral other roads, all oifering pleasing scenery, by which to reach Mariazell from Wiener Xeustadt. 1. By Buchherg. There are three tolerably direct ways to Buchberg, of' which the most frequented, and, on the whole, the most agreeable, is that by the road through the Sicrningthcd. The Temitz station, on the rly. to Grlogg- nitz, is close to the opening of that pretty valley ; but, as vehicles are not usually found there, those who do not prefer to walk stop at Neunkirchoi (Ete. A). The distance from Neunkirchen is 9|- m., and about 1^ m. less from Ternitz. Charge for a carriage from Neunkirchen — 5 fl. ; from Buchberg to Ternitz — 4 fl. The scenery of the val- ley is very pleasing, though on a small scale, especially at the defile of Stixen- stciji, overlooked by the ruins of a castle of that name. At Edenhof, where the Bohrhachgrahen opens on the 1. hand, a path mounts about due E. to Reichen- au. At the hamlet of Eohrbach, on the way, two little inns have been openedfor the accommodation of tourists. A little above Edenhof, the narrow glen of the Sierningthal opens into a broad green basin, enclosed between steep hills, except on the WSW. side, where the mass of the Schneeberg rises very boldly to a height of nearly 5,000 ft. above the valley. The population is distributed among many scattered ham- lets, the principal of which, named from the noble beech trees that aboimd in the valley, is Buchberg (Inns : Doppler's G-asthaus in the village is good ; still better is that in the adjoining hamlet of Sier- ning,kept by the widow Salfund). There are many pretty short M'alks, of which that leading to the panliou on the Eomeikogl deserves mention for the sake of the view. Johann G-ruben, Peter Tisch, and Jakob Jagelsberg are recommended as gixides for longer ex- cursions. The ascent of the Schneeberg is most conveniently made from Buchberg, and may be taken on the way from that plaio, either to Eeichenau, or to the upper part of the Hollenthal. The mountain is essentially a plateau, lying between the nearly parallel valleys of the Schwarzau and the Sierning. The plateau, called Kuh schneeberg, reaches a height of about 5,400 ft., and towards its eastern verge it is bordered by a much higher ridge, collectively called Hochschneeberg. This includes the three highest siimmits — the N., the Kaiserstebi (6,740'), commanding the finest view over the valley of the Damibe, in the middle the Alpe'iigipfel (6,809') the highest point, and to the S. the Waxriegel (6,182'). The ascent of the Alpengipfel is counted as from 4 to 5 hrs. from Buchberg, exclusive of halts. There is one good spring on the way, called ' das kalte Wasser,' where it is usual to halt for breakfast or lunch, as towards the top it is often impossible to find water. Those who woiild reach the summit very early -hould sleep at the Baumgartnerhiit'te (5,281'), which lies but a short distance to the 1. from the direct course to the Alpengipfel. It may be called an inn, as it offers several rough beds, coffee, wine, and occasionally meat. The Ochsenhiitte, higher up by a few hundred feet, supplies but wretched accommodation. Eeturning from the summit to the Baumgartnerhutte, the traveller may thence descend to Eeichen- au, or else by a very steep path to the Kaiserbrunnen,in the Hollenthal. Those who wish to descend through the finest part of the latter valley to Eeichenau should direct their steps WNW. from the summit of the Alpengipfel, over the plateau of the Kuhschneeberg, and de- scend thence to the inn of the Kohbauer (mentioned below), on the road from Gruttenstein to the Hollenthal. The landlord of this inn has -a. Hiitte on the plateau of the Kuhschneeberg, where travellers who ascend the mountain from the W. side find tolerable night- quarters. Travellers who wish to reach the Hollenthal from Buchberg without ascending the Schneeberg, or traversing the pass to Eeichenau through the Eohrbaehgrabeu, should fol- low the Sierningbach through the glen 3QS STYRIAN ALPS. § 54. MARIAZELL DISTRICT. of Mamau, as the upper part of the val- ley is locally called. Traversing a low pass in 2^ hrs. from Buchberg, they join the road through the Klosterthal from Guttenstein to the Hollenthal. On the way the traveller passes near the Seba.stiansbach, a pretty waterfall, which will be more appreciated if seen at the beginning, rather than the end, of a tour in the Eastern Alps. Besides the road to Buchberg by the Sierningthal, there is another carriage- road leading directly, about due W., from Wiener Xeustadt, not quite so in- teresting in point of scenery, though the view on the way between G-riinbach and i Buchberg is extremely fine. An inter- j mediate path goes from Xeunkirchen to Wirflach, and thence by a wild cleft in the limestone rocks, along the Schrat- tenbachgraben to the ruined castle of Schrattenstein. It is a walk of 2\ hrs. from that place to Buchberg by the ; Strengberg. j 2. By Chittenstein. A good road for ■ light carriages goes as far as the Hoi- J lenthal, about 35 m. from Wiener Neu- j stadt. The little town of Guttenstein, , lying in a very picturesque valley, is a j convenient stopping-place for a tourist ] exploring the northern outliers of the i vSchneeberg range. The interest of ex- { cursions among these valleys is much in- ' creased by the numerous ancient castles, , some in ruins, some kept in habitable j condition, that pierce through the newer strata of modern civilisation, and afford fixed points round which the vague me- mories of past ages have crystallised into many a strange form of myth and po- pular tradition. The varied fortunes of the earlier rulers of Austria, and in later days the vicissitudes of the Turkish wars, supply the staple material for many a page of legendary history. The Piesiingthal, through which lies the way to Guttenstein, opens a few m. NW. of Wiener Neustadt, and the road lies across the plain for at least 6 m. to Wol- lersdorf, a manufacturing village, a little above the opening of the valley. By an old watch-tower above the village called Hoilthxirm, is the entrance to a very ex- tensive imperfectly known cavern, said to extend from hence to the castle of Starhemberg. The road passes in suc- cession Unter-Piesting (Inn: Hirsch), overlooked by the castle just named, and Ober-Piesting (Inn : Zum griinen Baura). Above Piesting the valley is commonly called 'der kalte Gang.' From the hamlet of Wopfing, one of the most agreeable walks in this district crosses the ridge dividing this from the Buch- berg valley. It is a good bridle-track, constructed at the cost of the Archduke Leopold to connect a shooting lodge be- longing to him with the valleys on either side. The finest points of view are called respectively Kleinkanzel and Grosskanzel. The descent to Buch- berg is steep and slippery in wet wea- ther, and the distance about 5 hrs., ex- clusive of halts. Above Wopfing, the Piestingthal assumes a sterner charac ter, though large factories recurring at interv^als contrast with the wild aspect of two defiles through which the road passes in succession. Bernitz (said to have a good country inn) is passed, and the rocks again close together on either side, but finally open out into the picturesque basin wherein stands Guttenstein (Inns : Bar ; Presoli), a pretty little town standing near the junction of three glens. Through the westernmost of these— the proper head of the Piestingthal — lies a very interest- ing way to Rohr, in the upper valley of the Schwarzau (Ete. H), passing through the remarkable defile of Stein a- piesting, overlooked by a castle of the same name whose history abounds in romantic incidents, now the property of Count Hoyos. Another glen, the Ldngapiestingthal , opens due S. of Guttenstein, and by that way a path crosses the intermediate ridge at a point called 'am. umgestiirzten Kreuz' (4,223'), and descends to Buchberg, gaining on the way fine views of the Schneeberw. The road to the Hollenthal mounts SW. from Guttenstein, through the Klosterthal, a glen intermediate to the two other branches of the Piesting- § 55. VALLEY OF THE NORTHERN GURK. 369 thai already mentioned. It is the longest branch of the valley, following for many miles a SS"VV. course, with a gentle upward inclination till, at its head, it turns duo W., and mounts to the Grschaid (2,831'), or watershed, di- viding the waters of the Piesting from those of the Schwarzau. On the way, in descending towards the latter stream the good inn of the Hohbauer (men- tioned above) is passed by the roadside, and soon after the road reaches the banks of the Schwarzau, about 1| m. above the Singerin. The various paths and roads leading thence to Mariazell are mentioned in Ete. H. 8. By Altenmarkt and Hainfeld. The road here noticed lies on the verge of the district described in this §, and it suffices to say that there is an agreeable route to Mariazell for carriage tourists through the Triestingthal, which opens near the Leohersdorf station, between Wiener-Neustadt and Baden (Rte. A). It passes by Fotteyistein and Altenmurkt (Inn : Lamm). From the HocJieck (3,403'), above the latter town, a fine panoramic view of the neighbouring alps is gained with little trouble. The road mounts by Kaumberg (Inn : Grol- dene Kreuz) to the ridge dividing the waters of the Triesting from those of the Traisen (Rte. C). The distance thence to Lilienfeld in the main valley of the Traisen is about 16m., passing on the way by Hainfeld and St. Yeit. Visitors who wish to explore tho- roughly the valleys of the Schneeberg district should consult Dr. Weidmann's ' Alpengegenden Niederosterreichs und Obersteyermarks.' SECTION 55. VALLEY OF THE NORTHERN GURK. Ik describing the great central valley of the Styrian Alps which is drained by the Mur, it has been seen in § 53 that the range known as the Lesser Tauern extends continuously along the N. side of that river from the Eadstadter Tauern nearly to Leoben, and that it is drained by comparatively short valleys that pour their waters directly into the Mur on the S. side, or towards the N. into the Enns. The region lying on the S. side of the Miir, between that river and the Drave, whose geological struc- ture is much the same as that of the Lesser Tauern, as it is almost exclu- sively formed of crystalline and raeta- morphie palaeozoic rocks, presents in its orography very different features. The mountain masses, whose mere outline suggests the belief that they have suf- fered extensive denudation and degrada- tion, do not form a well-defined con- tinuous range, and they are parted by two deep transverse valleys that extend from N. to S., connecting the nearly parallel valleys of the Mur and the Drave. Speaking of the western por- tion of the region in question, which is that here described, it will be seen that it is in great part drained by torrents whose general course is from W. to E. These torrents are finally united in a single stream which flows southward to the Drave through the low country E. of Klagenfurt. This stream is the Northern Crurk, so called to distinguish it from the Southern Gurk, which drains a 8. C. J. STTRIAN ALPS. 00. VALLEY OF THE NOrvTHEP.N GURK. larjre portion of Southern Camiola, and joins the Save not far from Agram. If vre look at the extensive, though not very elevated mountain region lying be- tween the Lieserthal, which forms the western limit of the Stj-rian Alps, and theLavantthal, we shall see that all the principal mountains are at least partially drained by the affluents of the Grurk, and it therefore seems convenient to de- signate the district in question, not now known by a single comprehensive name, as the Valley of tlie Northern Gurk. Its limits are fixed by the Mur and the Drave to the N. and S. ; by the road from St. Michael in Lungau to Spittal on the W. ; and on the E. side by the range dividing the Lavantthal from the Gortschitzthal. While the geologist and the naturalist find many objects of interest in the ex- tensive district thus defined, it cannot be said that the lover of nature, in her wilder and grander moods, has here equal sources of attraction. The forms of the mountains somewhat too forcibly recaU the worn-down, and wellnigh ut- terly effaced, features of the aged moun- tain ranges of our own islands ; and the prevalence of mining industry, while it adds largely to the wealth of the in- liabitants, has made sad havoc among the forests that once covered a large part of the surface. With unimportant exceptions, it may be said, that in this district a moderate mountaineer may follow any direction he pleases, and meets no obstacles that may not be avoided by a merely trifling detour. It therefore seems out of place to at- tempt to describe paths in any detail, or to do more than point briefly the more interesting spots. To a naturalist, the best head-quarters will be found at Turrach, in the immediate neighbour- hood of several of the highest summits. It would be unjust not to add that there are many spots in these valleys that offer very pleasing scenery ; and it is only by comparison with the greater attraction? of adjoining districts that the scenery of the mountains can be properly called uninteresting. Local usage has given a variety of names to the mountain groups of this district, w-ithout assigning to them well- defined limits. Many of these have acquired a more definite standing in Alpine geography since they have been adopted by Sonklar, whose labours in connection with the orography of the Eastern Alps have been so often referred to in this work, and which, with trifling modifications, the writer usually adopts for his guidance. The following are the chief masses that deserve separate mention. On the W. side is the Stang- Alpen Group, whose most prominent summits are the Eisenhut (8,008') and the Konigstuhl (7,6i8'). East of this group, and divided from it by the path from Stadl on the Mur to Glodnitz on the Gi-urk, is the group of the Murauer Alps. From a western ridge that bounds the Stadl Graben on the E. side, two parallel ridges extend eastward on either side of the Metnitzthal, while a third ridge runs NE, to the town of Murau, The Grebenzen (6,128') is generally considered the highest of this group ; but niimerous other points in the ridges above mentioned appear to the writer to attain a nearly equal height. The range extending southward from near Judenburg, between the Gort- schitz and the Lavant, should perhaps be regarded as a single mass, but it is commonly divided into two groups. The northern is called Seethaler Alps, or Judenburg Alps, culminating in the Sirbitzkogel (7,863'), which is not in- serted on most maps, while its place is usurped by the much lower Wenzelalp (7,023'). The southern, or Saualp Group, so called from its highest sum- mit, the Sau-Alp, or Sau-Ofen, attains only 6,800 ft. Besides these there are several nearly isolated masses, separated from the Stang-Alpen Group by the Gurkthal, Kirchheimerthal, and Kan- ningthal, that attain a considerable elevation. The most considerable of these are the MUhlddfer Alp (6,845'), the Wbllan'T Nock (7,019'), and the Gerlitzen Alp ( 6,247')- Another rather considerable ridge, separated from the ROUTE A. — RAILWAY FHOM VILLACH TO MARBURG. 371 Murauer Alps by the Gurk, culminates ?n the Schneebauer. Among the attractions of this district must be reckoned the lakes lying be- tween Spittal and Klagenfurt. The longest of these — the Worther See — can scarcely be reckoned as a mountain lake; but the MiUstadter See and Ossia- cher See are true Alpine lakes, not rivalling in beauty those of the Salz- kammergut, but possessing a certain solemn grace that has a charm for serious and meditative dispositions. Politically, the larger part of this district belongs to Carinthia. The boundary between that province and Styria does not exactly follow the watershed between the Mur and the Drave, though it does not widely depart from it. The NW. extremity of the district, forming part of Lungau, belongs to the Salzburg territory. It seems convenient to describe here, under one heading, the railway from Villach to Marburg, although the east- em portion, from Unter-Drauburg to Marburg, more properly belongs to the next section. Route A. VILLACH TO MAEBUEO, BY EAILWAY. — VALLEY OF THE DEAVE. English miles .1 7 9i miles Velden . . 2 Krumpendorf . 2 Klagenfurt . . 1 Grafenstein . . li Kiilinsdorf . . 2 Bleiburg . 1| Prevail . . 2 Unter-Dranburg . . n Saldenhofen . . 1': Wuchern-Mahrenberg . 1 St. Lorenzen . . 2i Maria-Rast . . H Marburg . 2 22 7 43 103f I Three trains daily each way in from 5^ to 6§ i hours. Two of these are in correspondence with the trains from Villach, through the Pus- i terthal, to Franzensfeste. Villach (Inns : Post, fairly good, but I second-rate; Goldnes Lamm; and others of inferior note) is the second town of Carinthia (1,593 ft. above the sea), but the population is only about 3,500. For seven centuries it enjoyed virtual local independence, under the Bishops of Bamberg, and at the time when Venice was the emporium of the com- merce of the East the position of the town, on the most frequented road be- tween that city and Germany, made it a place of commercial importance. It is likely to regain some portion of its former importance, as the completion of the Rudolfsbahn railway, and that of the new line to Brixen, which unites the line of the Brenner wi;h the other South Austrian railways, must make this one of the most important junction- stations in Germany. As w;is men- tioned in § 53, the Rudolfsbahn will carry the traffic of the iron district of Upper Styria to Villach, and thence going SW. to Tarvis, will approach the Adriatic, either by the valley of the Tagliamento, or by that of the Isonzo. The line to Brixen follows the valley of the Drave and the Pusterthal (§51, Rte. A), and together with the line here described, connects the Western b2 372 STYRIAX ALPS. § ^•^• VALLEY OF THE NOl{TlIi;ny GTHK. Tyrol with th^ great railway between Viciiiia and Trieste. Villach. said to stand on the site of the Roman station Villa ad Aquas, was already a place of some importance when the Emperor Henry II. granted it to the newly-created Bishopric of Bam- berg. A mound near the town marks the site of a blooly battle, in which an invading force of Turks were de- feated with great slaughter in 1492. The venerable parish church (Pfarr- kirche) contains a large number of me- diaeval tombs of the Khevenhiiller, Dietrichsstein, Trautmannsdorf, and other old Carinthian families. Of in- teresting excursions in the neighbour- hood, the Bleiberg and Dobratsch are noticed in § 62, Rte. A, and the Ossia- cher See in Rte. G-. Travellers going to Ellagenfurt, and not much pressed f )r rime, should take the rly. only to Velden, at the W. end of the Worthcr Se^ (1,369'), and go by steamer from that station to Klagenfurt, provided the hours of starting can be made to agree together. At Velden there is a bathing establishment frequented in summer, when the lake, which is not fed by Alpine streams, maintains a tempH.ra- ture var^nng from 70^ to 75° Fahr. The scenery of the lake, which lies be- tween low hills, has not much interest except when seen from places on the N. shore, sufficiently high to bring the pic- turesque range of the Karawankas into the background. The high-road, as well as the railway, keep to the X. shore. At the small station of Fortschach a little steamer ferries passengers across to Maria-Worth. In this part of the broad valley, lying between the calca- reous range of the Karawankas and the crystalline slates of the St}Tian Alps, the Drave pursues a tortuous course among the tertiary hills on the south side of what appears to be the primitive direction of the main valley, which lies nearly in a straight line between "Villach and Volkermarkt. The hilly district between the present course of the river and the lake is called Satt- nitz. The hills are in great part densely wooded. ;ind ;ii:merous villages lie in pretty retirrti nooks. The best views of Sattnitz are gained from rising ground near the Krumpendorf Station. After passing the E. end of the lake, which is about 12 m, in length, the railway runs along low swampy ground, and before reaching Klagenfurt crosses the broad canal leading from that city to the lake, which gives passage to barges, and to the two steamers that ply thence to Velden. [A traveller, not pressed for time, may take a very agreeable way from Villach to Klagenfurt, following for the most part the course of the Ih-ave. From Foderaun, at the opening of the Gail- thai (§ 62, Rte. A), a road leads due E. through a trough in the hilly country, and approaches the rt. bank of the Drave at St. Peter. The very picturesque por- tion of the Drave valley lying S. of Sattnitz is locally called 7?o.s««^^a^. The road, which commands fine views of the adjoining mountains, follows the rt. bank of the river, till it joins the high- road from the Loibl Pass to Klagenfurt (§ 64, Rte. B). From Windlsch-Feistritz, whence a path leads southward across the E^arawankas range between the Stou (7,326' j and the A'j/i'scATza (6,862'), the naturalist niay well make a slight detour among the Sattnitz hills on the N. side of the river. The base of the hills is mica schist, overlaid with miocene deposits of considerable depth. To reach Klagenfurt the easiest way is by the Loibl road mentioned above.] Klagenfurt (1,437'), the modem capi- tal of Carinthia, is a floiu-ishing town whose stately appearance is out of pro- portion to its moderate population, no^vr about 15,000. Inns are extremely nu- merous. In the first class may be reckoned Moser's, small, but good cwi- sine ; Europa, new and good ; Kaiser von Oesterreich, large, rather old-fashioned. In the second class are ranked the Post; Stern; Sonne ; Hirseh ; and many others less frequented by strangers. At the Sandwirth is a large restaurant and garden, where the traveller finds good native cookery, often enlivened by music ROUTE A. KLAGENFURT. in thci evening. Cray-fish (Krebsen) grow to a great size here, and are much esteemed. Although the city claims a high antiquity, there are few buildings older than the 16th century. The streets are broad, with several large open squares, and the houses generally low ; hence tlie town covers a wide space. The bastions were blown up by the French in 1809, and are now converted into pMblie walks. The most conspicu- ous object in Klagenfurt is the tower of •the church of St. Egidius, 299 ft. in height. It commands a fine panoramic view, best enjoyed at an early hour on a fine morning. Still more interesting, in the writer's opinion, is the evening view from the Kreuzbei^, the well- planted hill on the NW. side of the town. Near the church is a cafe, fre- quented in the afternoon, and numerous walks lead in various directions. Be- yond the range of the Karawankas, the higher summits of the Steiner Alps are seen to SE. and the peak of the Teiglou to SW. The uncouth figures of a dragon and giant in the Neu Platz commemorate the destruction of the monster that, aecording to tradition, once inhabited the site of the town. The Landhaus, or place of meeting of the Estates of Carinthia, contains the coats of arms of the ancient families of the duchy. The palace of the Prince- Bishop of Gurk, whose residence is fixed liere, contains a rich chapel, and a gar- den which is thrown open to the public. Members of the Alpine Club^ contem- plating excursions in the valleys of the Drave and Save, may safely venture to apply for advice and information to Herr Prettner, the obliging director of an extensive white-lead factory on the N. side of the town. Besides the rail- way now open, that leads in one direction to Marburg, and in the other to Villach, Klagenfurt is the terminus of the road fromBruek an der MurbyFriesach(Rte. B), and the road to Laibaeh over the Loibi Pass (| 64, Rte. B). Of the shorter excursions from Klagenfurt the most in- teresting is that to the PredigtstuM, about 6 m. SE. of the town. On the I way is the fine schloss of Ebenthal, with I a park liberally thrown open to the i public. The castle of Osterwitz and the Herzogstuhl are noticed in Rte. B. The inhabitants of Klagenfurt all speak German more or less fluently, but the predominant language of this part of Carinthia is the Wendish (Grerm. 1 Windisck), dialect of Slavonic, resem- j bhng, but not identical with, the Krai- nerisch dialect spoken throughout Car- niola and the coast region of the Northern Adriatic. The stranger travelling, other- wise than by railway, through most : parts of Carinthia is struck by many indications showing that the owners of the soil are, as a general rule, residents on their estates. In few parts of Europe out of England is there so much evi- dence of the local influence of wealthy and intelligent proprietors. The rivpr Glan. which follows in its much shorter course a sinuous channel nearly parallel to that of the Gurk, flows past Klagenfurt on the NE. side, and after receiving the stream that drains the Worther See, falls into the Gurk about 7 m. from the town, near the Gra- fenstein station. The tract extending morthward along the Glan, eastward towards the Gurk, and westward to the Worther See, on one side of which stands Klagenfurt, is with much probability believed to form part of the area of an ancient lake-basin which has been filled up by the deposits of the Glan and the Ourk. The swampy portions of this district produce many marsh plants, amongst whieli the botanist will recog- nise some species of high northern lati- tudes, mixed with others characteristic of the warmer regions of Europe. The following may be here enumerated : — Isnardia palustris, Seneeio pabidosus, Teiocrium scordii'.m, Euphorbia jjvocera, CaJla palustrie, HemerocaUisflava, Rhyn- cospora alba, and R. fusca, Cladhim mariscus, Eriophorum alpimcm^ many Cariccs, and Marsdea quadrifolia. The rly. from Klagenfurt passes the Gurk before reaching the Grafenstein station, and soon after crosses the Drave by a massive bridge, thence going due 374 STVRIAN ALPS. § 55. VALLEY OF THE NORTHERN GURK. E.to Kuhnsdorf, the station for Volker- \ mo.rkt (1,488'), a small town N. of the Drave, on an alluvial terrace at a con- siderable height above the river. A post-road goes thence over the hills to St. Andra, in the Lavantthal (§56, Ete. Bi, while the old high-road to Mar- burg and Cilli keeps to the N, bank of the Di-ave, passing Lavamiind. The I'o.id from Kappel and Bad Vellach {% 64, Rte, C) reaches the rly. at Kiihns- doi-f. Here the line of the rly. turns jiside from the valley of the Drave, and afrer passing the pretty little town of Bleihurg winds among the hills at the NE. base of the Petschen (6,926'), and, without encountering serious engineering obstacles, reaches the important iron- works of Prevali. This place stands in a picturesque position in the valley of the Missbach. That stream originates in the broad mountain-valley that sepa- rates the E. end of the Karawankas range trom the group of the Steiner Alps. After passing northward through a deep cleft in the Karawankas, some way E. of the Petschen, the torrent turns first E., then ^E., and descends to join the Drave opposite to Unter-Brauhurg. The rly. follows the course of the Miss- bach from Prevali to that place. From Unter-Dratiburg to Marburg the valley of the Drave changes its aspect. The limestone ranges that hitherto bordered the rt. bank of the river now give place to a comparatively low flat-topped range formed of cr\-staliine rock — the so-called Bacher-Gebirge — further noticed in § 64. On the N. side of the river is a lower range of tertiar\- hills, called Posnick, which is connected with a still lower range near Marbui^, called Windische Buhel, whose strata abound in fossils of miocene age. The scenery of the populous and richly cultivated valley is pleasing, but does not offer many striking objects. For some distance the rly. is carried along the declivity of the Bacher at a considerable height above the stream. Saldenhofe-n stands below the rly. on the rt. bank, and the next station — Wuchcrn \ — is opposite to the little town of M'dh- 1 renherg. St. Lorenzen, where there are iron-works and considerable saw-mills, lies in a glen descending from the Bach- er, nearly 3 m. away from the station of the same name. E. of St. Lorenzen a projecting promontory of rock nar- rows the channel of the Drave, and makes the river perform a rapid bend to the N. ; but after passing this obsta- cle and reaching Maria-Bast (OSS'), the broad valley extends unbroken to Mar- burg. Some of the best wines of Styria are grown on the surrounding slopes. The rly. describes a considerable curve before reaching the important jimetion- station of Marburg, (See § 66, Kte. A.) EOITTE B. KT.AGEXFUBT TO BBUCK AN DEB ISJTB. Austrian English miles milea St. Yeit . 2i Hi DiirafeM . n 7 Friesaoh . 2 9i Neumarkt . . 2 rnzmarkt . . 3 14 Brack an de: Mnr .llf o3| 22| 103i RailTvay recently opened. The portion be- tween rnzmarkt and Bmck an dor Mur is de- scribed in § 53, Rte. A. The road from Klagenfurt to the val- ley of the Mur was for a time supersed^nl by the railway route v^ia Marburg, but is again become the shortest way to Vien- na, since the opening of the new line. It runs X^E. over the level, and partly ROUTE B. CASTLE OF OSTERWITZ. o i .marshy, tract on the E. side of the Glan, reft-rred to in the lust Rte. as forming ptirt of an ancient lake-basin. The portion extending northward from Kla- genfurt is called Zollfeld (perhaps originally Saalfeld). This plain has preserved many records of the Eoman, German, and Slavonic rulers of this region, though but slight traces remain of the cities that are known to have stood here. About half-way to St. Veit, on a hill E. of the road, is the pilgrim- age church of Maria-Saal (2,424'), whose two towers are conspicuous from afar. Here stood the most ancient Sla- vonic Christian church of this region. By the roadside, about as far from Klagenfurt as Maria-Saal, is the Her- zogstuhl, a stone seat guarded by an iron railing. By a singular mediaeval custom, which survived to the begin- ning of the loth century, the Dukes of Carinthia, on their accession, here re- ceived the investiture of their sove- reignty from the hands of a peasant, after first swearing to preserve the rights and liberties of their subjects. The letters masueti vert preserved on the E. side of the monument were sup- posed to be a specimen of early Sla- vonic. It is now known that they are but the fragment of a Roman inscrip- tion, and the fact is not surprising, as Roman monumental stones and frag- ments of masonry have been exten- sively used for building in this neigh- bourhood. The spot where these hare been found in greatest abund- ance is on the slope of the Hele- nenherg. This was once completely covered by the remains of Roman buildings, occupying the site of the Kelto-Roman city of Virumcm. On or near the same spot stood Carenta, the residence of the Dukes until the 11th century, when St. Veit became their capital. Various inscriptions, and the remains of temples, prove that the Mythraic sun-worship was extremely prevalent among the Roman colonists. A fine bronze statue of Antinous — now in the Gallery of Antiques at Vienna — ■ was found here. A second stone seat used in the investiture of thn Dukes, and called Fiirstenstein, has been re- moved to the museum in Klairenfurt. Above St. Donat the valley of the Glan turns in a direction nearly contrary to its previous course, ascending WSW. to- wards the source of the stream near Os- siach. In the bend of the valley stands St. Veit (1,592'), the ancient capital of Carinthia, which yielded to the in- creasing importance of Klagenfurt only in 1518. Markofer's is said to be the best inn. The old walls give a stately air to the little town. In the market- place the fountain has a white marble basin, 31 ft. in width, which was dug up in the Zollfeld. An interesting excur- sion may be made from hence to 0*^- terwitz, the ancient rock-fortress of the Khevenhiillers, easily reached in a carriage in 1 hr. It is maintained in habitable condition by the present Count Khevenhiiller, and is probably the best specimen in Europe of a me- diaeval stronghold still preserved in its original state. The castle stands on a steep rock, 930 ft. in height above the valley, and the sinuous track that mounts in long windings passes through 14 gateways, and over 3 drawbridges. The church and the armoury contain many memorials of a family whose ex- ploits against the Turks are still fresh in the memories of their countrymen. Those who visit Osterwitz from Klagen- furt need not go to St. Veit. The direct way turns aside from the post-road at St. Donat, 3 m. SE. of that place. The distance from Klagenfurt is about 12 m. For the road to Villach by the Ossiacher See, see Rte. G. On leaving St. Veit the post -road mounts gently across a low ridge which here separates the valley of the Glan from that of the Gurk. The latter river is reached at the post-station of Dilrnfeld. The road twice crosses the sinuous course of the Gurk before reaching the village of Zxoischcnwassern (1,988'), which lies at the junction of the Gurk and the Metnitz. There are here extensive iron-works, and a sum- mer residence of the Prince-Bishop of 376 STYRIAN ALPS. § 55. VALLEY OF THE NORTHERN GURK. Gurk. At this point the Grurk, which originates in the high mountains of the Stang-Alpen group, after pursuing for nearly 30 m. a course to EXE., meets *"he Metnitz, whose course is at first •Iso easterly, but which turns southward It Friesach. Around the junction of he two streams is an isolated patch of ■retaceous limestone, that appears to lave been deposited in an ancient de- pression of the surrounding palseozoic rocks. The hilly country E. of the Gurk is furrowed into short glens, wherein stand many mining Tillages and several ancient castles. At Althofen (2,328'), about 3 m. SE. of Zwischenwassern, Roman antiquities hare been found. Near this place nummulitic deposits are seen overlying the above-mentioned cre- taceous limestone. Keeping mainly to the rt. bank of the Metnitz, the road soon reaches the extremely picturesque little town of FViesack (Inn : Post). Ramparts and towers, and ditches still filled with water, and five surrounding castles, now mostly fallen to ruin, speak of the tur- bulent times when this place, important, because it commanded the most fre- quented road to Italy, was the constant object of strife between iron-handed Archbishops of Salzburg, and rebellious counts, and the Kings of Bohemia and Hungary. It passed from the possession of the Hungarians to that of the House of Austria only under Maximilian, who was born not far off in the castle of Tanzenberg, near St. Veit. The churches are very curious, especially the Pfarr- kirche, which has a romanesque nave and towers, with a choir in the later pointed style. Recent improvements (!) have destroyed several curious frag- ments of early art. The church and convent of the Dominicans also shows a singular combination of romanesque and gothic architecture. At Friesach the Metnitzthal (Rte. E) opens to the W,, while the post-road is carried about due N., along the tributary stream of the Olsga. The frontier of Styria, which here lies far S. of the watershed between the Mur and the Gurk, is only about 2 m. north of the town. On the Styrian side stands the castle of Durenstein^ cradle of a once renowned family. The valley here becomes narrow, and tho road mounts rather more steeply. On the rt. hand is passed the chalybeate spring of Einodhad (2,341'). The Olsga descends in rapids and cataracts through the defile, till the valley opens, before reaching NeumarJct (2,792'), a little walled town, the first rly. station in Styria (Inn : Post, middling). The road still ascends, for about 4 m., to the summit of the ridge, close to the hamlet of Ferchau, which forms the watershed between the Mur and the Gurk. This is 3,274 ft. above the sea. Tliis deep depression in the range of the Styrian Alps lies immediately AV. of the summit of the Wenzelalp (7,023'), one of the highest summits of the Seethaler Alps. That range may be visited from Neu- markt, but is more often approached from Obdach (§ 56, Rte. B). On the N. side of the pass the de- clivity is more gentle than towanls the S. The little glen descending to- wards the Mur is called Perchauerthal. Through this the road goes to Scheifling on the Mur. The way leading thence by Unzmarkt (the next rly. station), and Judenburg, to Bruck an der Mur is described in § 53, Rte. A. The tra- veller going from Neumarkt to the upper part of the Murthal should not traverse the Pass of Perchau. A road mounts NW. to another pass, lying about 5 m. W, of Perchau, and de- scends on the opposite side to Teufen- bach on the Mur, which is, by some miles, nearer to Murau (§ 63, Rte. A) than Scheifling. ROUTE C. FELDKIRCHEN. 377 RorxE C. KIAGENFITET TO TAMSTVEG BY TTEEACH, THE EISEXHUT. Austrian English miles miles Feldkirchen . . 3f 17 Gnesau . . li 8| Reichenau . . 2J 10 Turrach . . 2 H Predlitz . . 2i 111 Tamsweg Carriage-road. Practicable only for very light small vehicles between Reichenau and Turracli. The road here noticed is the shortest way for a traveller going from Klagen- furt to the head of the valley of the llur, and, taken in connection with the road over the Eadstadter Tauern, is therefore the most direct way from that city to Salzburg ; but, in its present condition, the road from Eeichenau to Turrach is barely passable for light vehicles ; and it is more agreeable, if not also more prudent, to perform fully half the distance between those places on foot. The shortest way from Klagenfurt to Feldkirchen is by rly. via St. Veit ; but many will prefer to go by carriage in about 3|- hi's., passing Mooshurg. The road to that place runs nes.rly at a level along a stream which falls into the Glan. The pedestrian may reach Moosburg in little more than 1 hr. by crossing the low ridge that separates it from the rly. station at Portschach on the "Worther See (Rte. A). He may probably find at the village inn a vehicle to carry him to Feldkirchen. The road is hilly, and often affords the traveller fine views of the distant range of the Karawankas. as well as the less broken outline of the Styrian Alps, beyond the valley of the Gurk. Feldkirchen (1,794') is a thriving country town,with an air of industry and comfort, whose importance is increased by the new rly, between \'iilach and St. Veit, connecting it with the valk-ys of the Drave and the Mur. Many places with tenfold the population offer less ac- commodation to the stranger. Out of at least 30 inns, that of Nowak has the best rooms, and the traveller finds in addition civility and quiet ; Ranter's supplies the best cookery : and the Post is a very fair country inn, sometimes rather noisy. About 2 m. from the town are the important iron-works of Buchscheiden. The situation of Feld- kirchen is picturesque. It lies in a hollow surrounded by rather high hills, the drainage of which flows in opposita directions. The stream seen on the rt, hand in approaching tlie town by the Klagenfurt road is the chief branch of the Grian, which originates in the hills on the S. side of the Ossiacher See, and flows EXE. hence to St. Veit. The Tie- belbach, on the contrary, which passes by the town, descends through a broad valley to the Ossiacher See, about 5 m. distant (see Rte. G). At least 4 hrs. must be allowed for going in a country carriage from this place to Reichenau, but in descending, 3;^ hrs. suffice for a good horse. The road is so agreeable that the pedestrian will prefer to walk. The way from Feldkirchen to the Gurk- thal lies near the source of Tiebelbach, but as that stream makes a wide circuit, the road mounts the hiUs NW. of the town, and in less than 4 m. reaches the pretty village of Himmelsberg , with a large neat-looking inn. The Tiebel- bach. which is crossed here, issues from a little glen on the 1., through which runs a country road to Treffen (Rte. G), while the road to Gnesau mounts through a hollow in the hills to the summit of the ridge which overlooks the valley of the Gulk. That river here falls rapidly towards the E. through a contracted channel, and the road, which turns sharply to the 1. at the summit of the ridge, is carried nearly at a level along the slope of the hills, so that it finally approaches the bed of the Gurk at a point some 2 m. farther up, without any sensible descent. Gnesau (3,087') is a very small place with a poor inn. Though the scenery is not very striking, the upper valley of the Gurk assumea 378 STYEIAN ALPS. § 55. VALLEY OF THE NORTHERN GURK. something of an Alpine aspect that is not elsewhere found in this district. This is especially the case about oh m. be- yond G-nesau, where the road and the valley fork beyond the hamlet of St. Margarethen. One road leading to Millstadt ascends due W. through a short glen to Klein-Kirchheim (Ete. Fj ; while the way to Reichenau lies NNE. along the main stream of the Gurk. Following the road into the lower end of this branch of the valley, the pedestrian may make a short-cut, and avoid a piece of rough road, by crossing a stile on the rt. hand just before reach- ing a solitary white house (a road-side inn) standing in the middle of the valley. The path follows for some dis- tance the 1. bank of the stream, but crosses the first bridge, and the traveller should, without attempting further short-cuts, follow it back to the road, which is reached a short way below Reichenau (3,474'), the last village on the Gurk, which is here formed by the junction of two torrents. The road to Turrach follows the northern branch of the stream, while the other branch, leading to St. Lorenzen, is further no- ticed below. Close to the little church of Eeichenau is a country inn, more comfortable than could be expected in so remote a place. The obliging land- lord has frequent opportunities for for- warding luggage, and thus leaving the pedestrian free to choose his own course over the mountains. For a short dis- tance the road to Turrach follows the banks of the stream, and is quite easy ; but before long it crosses to the 1. bank, and commences an extremely steep as- cent, which continues with little inter- ruption all the way to the summit of the pass, a distance of 1 Austrian mile from Reichenau. The scenery is agree- able, but there is little distant view in any direction. The Turrach Pass (5,825'?) is a few feet above the level of a comparatively large mountain-lake, lying on the top of the ridge that separates the Mur from the valley of the G-urk. There is a large house (now abandoned ?) on the E. side of the lake, opposite the road, and a very poor pot-house by the road- side, the resort of passing carters. In I swampy ground near the banks of the I Turrach See (5,791') the botanist will find Coraarumjpalustre, Swertiaperennis, I Juncus castaneus, and other rare plants. ' The road on the N. side of the pass is less steep and better made than on the opposite declivity ; but is narrow and rough, so that nervous persons will prefer to walk part of the way. Views of the Konigstuhl, Eisenhut, and other surrounding mountains are gained on the way, and in 3^ hrs. on foot (2 hrs. ascending from Eeichenau, H hr. de- scending) the traveller reaches the great iron-works of Turrach (3,814'), belong- ing to Prince Schwarzenberg. It is a very complete establishment in which the Bessemer process for making steel, and other modern improvements, have been introduced. The whole is managed by a local director (Verweser), in whose house travellers of the better class are received. This falls within the defini- tion of an inn, and it is managed (after a fashion) by the director's wife, who is good-natured, and supplies very good food. Tact and patience are, however, requisite for the traveller who would make this his head-quarters ; the land- lady is careful to make it understood that the house is not opened for profit ; and as she shares the national belief that time is of no value, British impatience would be out of place. Turrach is the most convenient start- ing-point for several excursions, which, however, offer more of interest to the naturalist than to the lover of Alpine scenery. The mountaineer scarcely requires a guide, but the botanist may be glad to take a man named Bartl Eenner, who knows the neighbourhood well, and is acquainted with the habitats of several of the rarest plants. He is slow, and has an inconvenient taste for food, but in other respects is rather an agreeable companion. The excursion usually preferred is that to the summit of the Eisenhut (8,008'), the highest summit of the StjT-ian Alps S. of the fiOUTE C. — THE EISENHUT. 379 Mur. As it is the culminating point of the mass of mountain rising E. of Tur- rach, the ascent might be commenced directly from that place ; but the pre- ferable way in all respects is through the Graseck Grrahen. This is a short glen that opens to SE., about 1 m. above Turrach, and is surrounded by the highest siimmits of this district, which are ranged in a semicircle round its head. Turning round from S. to E. and then to N., these are seen in the following order : — Ochsenbrett, Kamp- wande, Leitersteig, Schwalbenkogel, and Eisenhut. Of these the first two alone are in the range dividing the Mur from the Gurk. The Schwalbenkogel is the highest point in the range dividing the valley of Txirrach from the parallel valley of the Stadl Graben, and the Eisenhut lies in a ridge projecting from the Schwalbenkogel towards Turrach ; so that the drainage from both sides of the mountain descends to the Turrach torrent. The circumstance that the frontier between Styria and Carinthia here trespasses on the N. side of the watershed, and passes over the summit of the Eisenhut, has led many writers to suppose erroneously that the summit lies in the dividing range between the Mur and the Drave. A cart-track is carried tlirough the lower part of the G-raseck Graben, and not only leads to some hiitten in the glen, but mounts above the rt. bank of the stream, and finally reaches the ridge between the Leitersteig and the Schwalbenkogel, very near the summit of the former mountain, at. a height of fully 7,000 ft. It is carried thence eastward, along the broad mountain ridge towards Fladnitz, being used for the conveyance of cheese and other produce by the inhabitants of the senn- hiitten that are scattered at intervals along the range. The name Leitersteig properly applies to this track, but is also locally given to the adjoining sum- mit E. of the Kampwande. The best way to the Eisenhut is to follow the track in question through the lower part of the Graseck Graben. Not long after passing the torrent to its rt. bank the first group of hiitten are reached. Here the traveller turns to the 1., and begins to ascend the moderately steep slope of the mountain, which is in great part covered with forest, consist- ing of pine, larch, and Siberian fir (or Pinus cembra). Ascending nearly straight up, but bearing rather to the 1. than to the rt., a cattle-track is found which leads directly to the ridge of the Eisenhut. On leaving behind the last P. cembra, the ascent continues by a stony slope, on which grow Silene Pu- milio and many other attractive Alpine plants. It is impossible to miss the way, and the ascent terminates on reaching a summit, sometimes called Klein Eisenhut, with a stone man on the top. The highest point of the mountain is now soon attained, being separated from the first by a very slight depression. The view has been highly spoken of, and in clear weather it in- cludes the E. end of the High Tauem range, and the whole of the Lesser Tauem ; but it is somewhat limited by the circumstance that the nearer moun- tains, and especially the broad ridge of the Schwalbenkogel, approach very nearly to the same elevation. The best way to return to Turrach is to follow the ridge SE. from the sum- mit, and on reaching the lowest point between it and the Schwalbenkogel to descend into the head of a glen which joins the Turrach Graben about 1 hr. below the iron -works. Snow lies in many places at the head of this glen, and the rocks of the Eisenhut rise very finely on the 1. The upper end is un- inhabited, being a chamois preserve belonging to Prince Sehwarzenberg, Below a little tarn called Tiesnigg See^ or Diesaling See, a path is found on the rt. bank of the stream. On reaching a Jdgers cottage there is a pleasant short- cut for returning to Turrach, found by , crossing the stream, and mounting the I ridge on the AV. side of the glen by a tolerable path. At the top is a fenced ' pasture-field, where the path is lost. i It is found again at a stile on the W, 380 STYRIAN ALPS. § 55. VALLEY OF THE NORTHERN GURK. Bide of the field, and then descends, all the way through forest, to the iron- works at Turrach, reached in about 2 lirs. from the Tiesnigg See. Some of j the rarest plants in the following list are found on the steep rocks below the summit of the Klein Eisenhut, on the N. and ISTE. sides, others are seen plen- tifully along the ridge of the mountain : — Aconitum tauricum, Cochharia groen- landica (J), Silene Pumilio, Ahine recicrva, Arenaria hiflora, Cerastium avatum, Saxi- \ fraga cernua, Gaya simplex, Valeriana celtica, Aronicum glaciale, Phyteuma globular icBfoliurn, Campanula alpina, Eritrichium nanu^n, Androsace Wulfe- niana, Aira subspicata, Sesteria tenella, Festuca ptimila, &c. Near the Tiesnigg See may be gathered Cineraria alpestris, Swertia perennis, Jimcus castaneus, and other rarities. On the Rothkogel, W. of Turrach, may be gathered Oxytropis hiflora, Phaca oroboides, and several other rare plants. The KonigstvM (7,648'), which may be ascended in 4 hrs. from Turrach, or taken on the way from Grmiind (Rte. D), seems to* the writer to be more favoiir- ably situated for a panoramic view than the loftier summit of the Eisenhut. [Instead of following the road from Keichenau to Turrach, the pedestrian may take a rather longer way that will lead him near to, or over, some of the I higher summits in the range enclosing j i the Graseck Graben. He may reach I Turrach that way in 5 hrs., steady walk- I ing exclusive of halts ; but if he would ; make a detour by the summit of the j Eisenhut, he will do better to sleep at ! Beichenau, and give the greater part of the day to this agreeable walk. As already mentioned, one of the torrents that form the stream of the Gurk at Keichenau flows westward out of a glen in which lies the village of St. Lorenzen. EoUowing that glen, which gradually bends round till it turns to NNW., a path leads to the ridge enclosing the Graseck Graben near the summit of the Leitersleig, and strikes the track, men- tioned above, wliich leads thence to Tur- rach. A more interesting way lies through a wild glen, locally called Sgar- tenthal. This opens on the rt. of the road leading from Keichenau to the Tur- rach Pass, but may be reached by a more direct and much easier path from Keich- enau, not to be found without the aid of a local guide. The Sgartenthal, which has aiForded to botanical visitors many rare plants, is closed at its head by the steep rocks of the Kampwdnde, a fine ridge, steep on both sides, which must surpass 7,700 ft. in height. There is no difficulty in ascending the rather steep slope which is on the rt. hand as the traveller faces the head of the glen, but he must beware of bearing too much to the rt. until he has attained the ridge connecting the Kampwande with the Leitersteig, and looks down into the basin of the Graseck Graben. He then keeps to the rt. along the rather steep and rough ridge of the Leitersteig tiU he has gained the track spoken of above. In clear weather he can have no difficulty in attaining the summit of the Schwal- benkogel or the Eisenhut, without de- scending sensibly below the level which he has here attained. The Schwalben- Jcogel approaches within a few ft. of the height of the Eisenhut. The way from Turrach to the valley of the Mur lies through the singular glen locally known as Turrach Graben, or Predlitz Gra- ben. Eor nearly the entire distance it is an extremely deep, narrow, and sinuous defile. The road with difficulty follows the Turrach torrent, which is crossed -w-ithin a few miles by 42 bridges. The rocks in some places actually over- hang, and are usually so steep that little or no snow falls upon the road in winter — a circumstance which is a source of loss and inconveniencej owing to the difficulty of conveying the produce of the iron-works by sledge in winter to the valley of the Mur. At the opening of the glen stands Predlitz (2,848') on the Mur, connected by a bridge with the opposite bank, along which runs the road from Murau to Tamsweg, described in § 53, Rte. A. UOUTE D. — FLADNITZER ALPS. 381 ROTTTE D. GMiJND TO FEIESACH BY TUEEACH ANT) FLADNITZ. Three easy days on foot. The mountaineer "^ho visits this region may take advantage of the comparatively uniform and unbroken character of the ridges to achieve — what is scarcely possible anywhere else in the Alps — a continuous walk along the main range for a distance not much under 50 miles in a straight line. It would, however, be expedient to descend to Turrach, both for the sake of accommodation for the night, and because the range en- closing the Grraseck Grraben (noticed in the last Rte.) is so steep and broken that much time woidd be consumed in at- tempting to follow its crest. The writer has no positive information as to some parts of the way here indicated, but he has seen the greater part of it, and feels assured that there are no difficulties that would give trouble to a practised moun- taineer. Starting from Gmund, or Kremsbruck, in the Lieserthal (§ 52, Ete. E), at which places there are good inns, the traveller may go on the first day to Turrach over the summit of the KonigsUihl (7,648'). The easiest way is from Grmiind, through the Leohen Graben which opens eastward about 5 m. above that place ; but the summit may also be attained by the Kreynser Graben, through which a track ascends due E. from Kremsbmck. In the glen (called Steinbach Graben ?) which descends from the Konigstulil towards Turrach the traveller may see a phenomenon which is more rare than might be expected in mining districts. It appears that, in the course of the last 200 years, the miners have so completely undermined a large part of the moun- tain that a bergfall en a large scale is inevitable. AVithin the last few years a previously narrow fissure has been so much enlarged that in 1864 it was 600 ft. long, in some places 30 ft. wide, and its depth unknown. The so-called Knap- penhaus, or miner's house, which stood near has been removed to a distance, but nothing can be done to avert the impending catastrophe. From Turrach the direct way to Frie- sach woiild lie through the Grraseck Grraben by the Leitersteig track (Ete. C), and then along the ridge en- closing the head of the Stadl Graben. This is a rather long valley which de- scends northward to Stadl on the Mur. Near its head it divides into two short glens. On the height of land above the easternmost glen is the little mountain village, or hamlet, of Fladnitz, at least 5,000 ft. above the sea, standing so near the summit of the ridge dividing it from the Grurkthal, that it is conspicuous from a great distance. There is a mountain inn (doubtless very rough) here. As it may be reached in about 6 hrs. from Turrach, or in 4 hrs. from thesummit of theEisen- hut, there is abundant time to make a detour by that moiintain on the way. The part of the main range surrounding the head of the Stadl Grraben is often collectively called Fladnitzer Alps, from the name of this little village. Paths lead thence northward to Stadl, south- eastward to Glbdnitz in the Grurkthal (Ete. C). and eastward into the head of the Metnitzthal (Ete. E). The latter would doubtless be the easiest way to Friesach (Ete. B), but the mountaineer, who loves breezy heights better than valley paths, will prefer to follow the crest of the ridge that extends nearly due E. of Eladnitz between the Gurk 382 STYRIAN ALPS. § 55. VALLEY OF TilL 2,'u:iTHERN GURK. and the Metnitz, and will not think the day ill spent that he devotes to the walk. [Instead of commencing this walk from the valley of the Lieser, as above suggested, the starting-point may be from St. Michael in Lungau (§ 52, Rte. E). About 5 m. below that place a low pass is seen on the S. side of the Mur, over which a path leads to the Thorna- tkal (§ 53, Ete. A), just at the point where the head of that valley tvirns abi-uptly to the S., and mounts in the direction of the Konigstuhl. This upper portion of the Thomathal is locally known as Bundschuhthal. The mines EOUTE E. FEIESACH TO MUEAU, OB STABL, IN THE MUETHAL. The traveller going from Friesach to the upper part of the valley of the Mur has a choice between two paths, each of which is shorter than the road by Xeu- markt and Teufenbach, noticed in Ete. B. Both of these follow the stream of the Metnitz into the Metnitzthal, which opens westward from Friesach. 1. By Lasnitz. 7 hrs. to Murau. A country road leads along the Metnitzthal as far as Grades (2,832'). Metnitz is formerly worked here have been aban- ; about | hr. higher up in the valley ; and doned, and it contains only a few senn- from both ^-illage3 tracks run northward. hiitten. The writer apprehends that Schaubach is in error when he asserts that a portion of the drainage of the Konigstuhl descends through Bund- schuh, and believes that it will be found a long day's work to take the summit of the Konigstuhl on the way from St. Michael to Turrach ; but there seems to be no difficulty in passing from the head of the Bundschuh glen by the S. side of the Schilcherhbhe, or taking that summit on the way. Although considerably lower than the Konigstuhl, this perhaps commands the more interesting view.] across the central ridge of the Murauer Alps, to Lasnitz (3,303'). The shorter and easier way is that from Grades. A road which passes by several forges de- scends from Lasnitz along the Lasnitz- bach to the valley of the Mur, which is i reached about 1 m. E. of Murau (§ 53, Ete. A). The walk may be varied by making a detour to the Abbey of St. Lambrecht. This is reached by mount- ' ing northward through a short glen that opens into the Metnitzthal about 3 m. below Grades. The path passes the ridge not far from the summit of the Grchenzen (6,128'j, the highest summit of the Murauer Alps, which may be reached without much delay. Due N. from the pass stands the little town of 8t. Lambrecht (3,348'), ^vith an ancient Benedictine Abbey, one of the stateliest buildings of the kind in St}Tia. The stream flows hence north-eastward to the Mur near Teufenbach (§ 53, Ete. A), through the Taja Graben, but a road runs westward over the low ridge that separates this from the Lasnitzbach. After joining the track from Grades, mentioned above, the road and the stream turn northward towards the Mur. 2. By the Stadl Grabcn. Beyond the fact that there is an easy path from the uppe^- part of the Metnitzthal to the Stadl Graben, the writer has no infor- mation respecting this route. According ROUTE F. MILLSTADTER SEE. 38a to the best maps, it leaves the 1. hank of the Metnitz above 1 i hr. above the vil- lage of that name, and traverses the broad ridge, scarcely 5,000 in height, that divides that valley from the Stadl Graben. At Stadl (§ 53, Rte. A) the traveller joins the main road through the Murthal. Route F, spittal on the deave to freesach, by the millstadter see, and the gurkthal. Austrian English miles miles Millstadt . . li 7 Klein-Kirchheim . 3 U Gnesau . 2i m Weitensfeld . . 4 18f Gurk . . li 6 Zwischenwassem . 2 H Friesach . 1 H 15 70 J The distances are given approximately. The pedestrian may much shorten the^vay between Gnesau and Weitensfeld. This is a very agreeable way for the traveller who, having reached Spittal by the upper valley of the Drave, wishes to go to the valley of the Mur by a cooler and quieter road than that of Villach and Klagenfurt, For the greater part of the way the road is fit only for light country carriages, and in the defile of the Gurk below Gnesau the scenery is far better enjoyed by a pedestrian than by following the carriage -road, which there abandons the banks of the river. The MiUstddter See, the most pictur- esque of the larger lakes of Carinthia, is about 8 m. in length, with an average breadth of more than 1 m., and is 1,904 ft. above the sea-level. It is divided from the Drave by a low ridge, nowhere rising to more than about 900 ft. above the lake. The carriage-way from Spittal follows the post-road to Gmiind (§ 52, Ete. E) for nearly 3 m., and then turns to the rt. ; but there is a shorter foot- path passing much nearer to the W. end of the lake. While the low ridge on the S. side falls steeply towards the shore, the slopes on the opposite side are at first gentle and undulating, but they extend upwards to the comparatively lofty ridge of the MiUstddter Alp (6,845'). Instead of following the road along the northern shore, the traveller will enjoy the scenery more fully by taking a boat, which, if not sooner, may be hired at the little market-town of Millstadt. Here, as on the shores of several other Alpine lakes, it is recorded that at the time of the great earthquake of Lisbon in 1755 the waters fell sud- denly, and as suddenly rose again to their former level, that being the appa- rent result of a violent undulation pro- pagated through the mass of the waters. At the ESE. end of the lake the Dobriach torrent flows into it from a deep hollow that divides the ridge of the Millstadtep Alp from the lower range extending SE. towards Yillach. The road leading to the Gurkthal foUows the rt. bank of the Dobriach to Eadcnthein (2,423'), where three short valleys pour their streams into a common basin. Through the Kanningthal a track runs XNE. ; and from the ridge at the head of that valley the traveller may bear to the 1. into the head of the Leobengraben (Ete. D), or follow the previous direction, and de- scend to Turrach (Ete, C). Nearly oppo- site to the Kanningthal a road runs from Eadenthein somewhat E. of S. through j a broader and more level valley, on the I SE. side of the Wollaner Nock. The I torrent flows from the Brenn See, a 884 STYRIAN ALPS. § 55. VALLEY OF THE NORTHERN GURK. small lake about 4 m. from Eadenthein. Separated from this by no noticeable ridge is a larger and prettier lake — the Afritz See (2,433') — which sends its drainage SE. in a stream that soon joins the TrefFenbach (Rte. G). By that way the traveller may descend to Villach, passino: on his way by the village of Afritz ^(2,266'), and by the W. end of the Ossiacher See. The whole distance by that way from Spittal to Villach is only about 30 m., and it forms an agree- able variation from the main road through the valley of the Drave (§51, Ete. A). The road from Eadenthein to the G-urkthal ascends a little X. of E. through the Klei?i-Kirchhcimerthal to the Baths oi Klein- Kirchhmm, which possess considerable local reputation in this part of Carinthia, and are much fre- quented in summer. From that place the traveller may make the ascent of the Wollaner Nock (7,019'), the highest of the detached summits lying S. of the Stangalpen group. It must command a fine view. A short ascent, followed by a still slighter descent, leads from the baths to the valley of the Gurk, just at the point where that stream, after descending SSW. from Eeichenau (Ete. C), turns eastward towards Gnesau. A few miles below the latter village com- mences the remarkable defile of the Enge Gurk, through the greater part of which the road altogether abandons the course of the river. The pedestrian may follow an agreeable foot-path along the 1. bank, but he who travels in a country carriage must for some distance follow the road to Himmelsberg (Ete. C). At Wiesenbach, a short way below Gnesau, he leaves the valley, and winds, nearly at a level, along the slope above the rt. bank till he reaches the summit of the ridge where the road to Himmels- berg turns to the rt. A branch road follows the course of the Gurk valley along, or near to, the sximmit of the ridge, and finally descends to the stream, and crosses to the 1. bank a short way above the castle of Albeck, which once commanded the passage of the defile. At Glodyiitz a glen opens on the N. side of the valley through which runs a rather frequented path to Fladnitz (Ete. D). By that way Stadl on the Mur is reached in 8 or 9 hrs. from Glodnitz. About 3 m. below Glodnitz is Weitens- feld, a small unimportant place. The scenery becomes more uniform and less interesting on the way thence to 6^«irA"(2,l 93'), aminiature market-town, the original see of one of the oldest bishopricks in Cannthia, interesting to the antiquary for its ancient cathedral — a regular basilica, with a remarkable cr)-pt, supported by 100 slender columns. It contains the tomb (dated 1045) of the foundress Emma, wife of the last Count Zeltschach, lord of Friesach. On the murder of their two sons both parents retired to monastic houses. Eoman re- mains have been found in the lower part of the valley between Gurk and Zwischenwassern. The road thence to Friesacli is described in Ete. B. At Friesach, which may be reached in 3j hrs. by the early train from Villach, the traveller finds the railway which will carry him in 6 hrs. to Bruck an der Mur. EorTE G. VILLACH TO FELDKIBCHEN'. Besides the railway train, which goes in 1 hr., there are two circuitous but agreeable roads from Villach to Feldkir- chen, and it is a pleasant, but rather a long, day's excursion to go one way and return the other. As the path by the ROUTE G. r.LEX OF THE TKEFFENBACH. 385 S. side of the Ossiacher See is more in- teresting than riie road along the oppo- site shore, the hest arrangement is to walk that way to Feldkirohen (about 20 m.), and return in a light carriage by the valley of the Treffenbach. 1. B^ the Ossiacher See. The old post-road to Klagenfurt is followed for nearly 3 m. from Villach to the hamlet of Seebach, beyond a bridge over the Treffenbach, which torrent, after receiv- ing the outflow from the lake, here de- scends to join the Drave. The road turns N. from Seebach to the Ossiacher See, whose SW. shore is soon reached. It is nearly 7 m. long, with an uniform breadth of about 1 m., and just 1,600 ft. above the sea. Along the N. side rises the ridge of the Gerlitzen Alp (6,247'). far surpassing the comparatively low hills on the opposite side. The lake is well stocked with fish, and produces near its low shores such quantities of Trapa nutans, that the eatable nuts sup- ply an article of local traffic. Unless the traveller should find a boat, he \vill do ^\ell to prefer the path along the S. shore of the lake. On the way he passes the ancient Benedictine Abbey of Os- siach, suppressed by Joseph II., and now converted into a government establish- ment for breeding horses. Some por- tions of the building, and especially a chapel, are still well preserved. A curious mediaeval story is connected with the fact that by a not uncommon effect of perspective the valley leading to the lake, when viewed from Feldkirch, appears to slope upwards. In the mid- dle of the 11th century King Boleslas, of Poland, struck with remorse for the murder of the Bishop of Cracow, went as a pilgrim to Rome, seeking absolu- tion and peace of conscience. He was told that although so great a sin might at last be forgiven, he could expect no rest on this side of the grave ; it being added — in token of the hopelessness of his case — until he should find water running up hill. Nothing daunted, the penitent king wandered through many an Alpine \ alley, restlessly enquiring the direction of the streams. "When at Feldkirchen he was assured that the Tiebelbach flows into the lake, he deemed his long search successful, and applied for admission as a lay-brother, or servitor, in the neighbouring abbey of Ossiach, which had been founded more than a century before. Only on his death-bed in 1079 he disclosed to the monks his true name and story. At the head of the lake the Tiebelbach runs through a marshy tract, and the foot- path keeps to the SE. side of the stream for a distance of about 5 m., till it reaches Feldkirchen (Rte. C). 2. By the Treffenbach. About 26 m.(?). This way follows the carriage-road from Seebach, mentioned above, to a point- close to the W. end of the Ossiach lake. Lea^•ing to the rt. the road along the N. shore, it ascends gently to NW. along the base of the hills, above the 1. bank of the Treffenbach, to the village of Trefftn (1,734'). A little above that place the valley narrows, the ascent be- comes rather more rapid, and the road passes to the rt. bank of the torrent. After ascending more than 7 m. from the lake, the valley forks at a point where it is overlooked by the remains of the ancient castle of Buchholz. Here the Treffenbach is formed by the union of two torrents ; that on the 1. hand, de- scending from NW., drains the Afrite See ; and by that way lies the agreeable road to Radenthein and Millstadt, mentioned in the last Rte. On the other hand, the Ariach torrent descends from a glen that opens nearly due E. from the junction. The road mounts that way through a depression between the ridge of the Wollaner Nock and that of the Gerlitzen Alp. A low pass divides the head of the glen of the Ariach from that of the Tiebelbach. Descending along the latter stream, the road joins that from Feldkirchen to the Ourkthal (Rte. C) a short way above Himmelsberg. In connection with either of the above roads a traveller going from Villach to the valley of the Mur, may follow a pleasant road from Feldkirchen to St. Veit (Rte. B) by the valley of the Glan. 386 STTRIAN ALPS. ROTTTE H. TClLXEBMAEKT to NErMAEKT, BY HUT- TENBEEG. About 36 miles. Eoad passable for small country carriages. It is a rather singular circumstance that the broad opening in the range of the St}-rian Alps, through which lies the road from Klagenfurt to the valley of the Mur (Rte, B), is traversed by another parallel valley. It will be re- collected that the Olsga, which is the northernmost affluent of the Grurk, is formed by the junction of several moun- tain torrents near Xeumarkt, and in its southward course is joined in succession bv the more considerable streams of the Metnitz and the Gurk. Parallel to this, and separated only by a ridge of mode- rate height, is the Gortschitz torrent, whose sources are in the range of the Seethaler Alps, and which runs south- ward towards the Drave till it is joined by the Gurk, about 8 or 9 m. NW. of Volkermarkt. The road here mentioned is convenient for a traveller who enters the valley of the Drave from Kappel (§ 64, Rte. C), and who wishes to go directly to the upper part of the Miir- thal. The Gortschitzthal is a mining valley, containing, in the lower slopes of the Saualp range the richest deposits of iron-ore in Carinthia, surpassed in importance among the Austrian Alps only by those of Eisencrz. The ore is 00. VALLEY OF THE NORTHERN GCRK. chiefly sparry carbonate of iron, in whose crevices, as at Eisenerz, are found fine crystals of arragonite. A country road from Volkermarkt leads to St. Johann, a village on the 1. bank of the Gortschitz, just above its junction with the Gurk. A road, much used for the conveyance of pig-iron from the smelt- ing houses, leads northward, chiefly along the 1. bank of the stream, for about 15 m. to Huttenberg (2,582'), the chief place in the valley, and centre of the iron district. It is characteristic of a mining population that the name Of en is locally given to the prominent summits in the Saualp range, which divides this from the Lavantihal (§ 56, Ete. B). The highest summit of that range, the Sau- Alp (6,800'), or Sau-Ofen, is said to produce many rare minerals, and com- mands an extensive view over the valley of the Drave and the ranges of Southern Carinthia. It is most easily reached from Si. Paul, a village on the road to Huttenberg, about halfway between that place and St. Johann. The Sv-bifz- kogel (7,863'), the highest of the See- thaler Alps, may be reached from Hiit- tenberg, but more easily from Eeichen- fels or Obdach (see § 56, Ete. B). From Hiittenberg the road runs north- ward, along the main stream of the Gortschitz, to Muhlen. From that village one road continues to ascend nearly due N., and finally joins the post-road from Friesach to Judenburg at the summit of the Ferchauer Pass (Ete. B). Another road goes XW. to 2\eumarJct, about 12 m. from Hiittenberg, whence the traveller bound for the Upper Valley of the Mur will follow the road to Tenfen- bach. § 56. LAVANTTHAL DISTRICT. 387 SECTION 56. LAVANTTHAL DISTRICT. In this Section we include a district which has less claims to be considered Alpine in character than any hitherto described in this work. Whether we regard the low elevation, or the easily accessible aspect of the mountains, or the absence of any but trifling accumu- lations of snow in sheltered rifts, the dis- trict here in question would be scarcely thought deserving of separate mention, were it not that, geologically, it un- doubtedly forms a portion of those cen- tral ranges of crystalline rocks which have been here collectively styled the Styrian Alps. As it is not likely that it will ever attract much attention from English travellers, a brief notice of the chief roads through it, and of the im- portant line of railway that forms its Eastern boundary, will suffice for most readers. On the N. side this district is bounded by the Mur between Judenburg and Bruck ; while its eastern limit is marked by the same river between Eruek and Marburg. To the S. its bounds are equally well defined by the course of the Drave between Volkermarkt and Marburg; and on the W. side by the crest of the mountains that extend northward from the latter place to Ju- denburg. The mountains of this district fall into two ranges, which meet a few miles NE. of Reichenfcls, at the N. end of the Lavantthal. The range extending NW. from that point, parallel to the Mur, generally designated Glein Alps, culminates in a summit W. of Uebel- bach, which is locally known as Speik- kogl (6,508'). That name being, how- ever, commonly given in a great part of Styria and Carinthia to any high sum- mit on which Valeriana celtica grows abundantly, it is necessary to diistin- guish this as the Grleinalpen-Speikkogl, The other range, which extends from N. to S. along the E. side of the Lavant- thal, is collectively known as the Stain- zer Alps, Its highest summit is the Koralp (7,010'). At the point where the two ranges meet is a group of rather high summits that rival, if they do not surpass, the others. The most con- spicuous of these is the Eappelkogfl (6,310'), SAV. of the Stubalp Pass, and the Obdacher Speikkogl, rising E. of Obdach, which measures 6,625 ft., but, according to other authorities, 7,274 ft. The Lavantthal, which on the W. side is bounded by the loftier range of the Seethaler Alps, is, to a traveller, the most attractive valley in this part of the Alps. The scenery, though not on a grand scale, is charming. Some plea- sant mountain walks are within easy reach, and very fair accommodation is found at all the larger places in the valley. There is a little plant, insignificant in appearance, common in the Styrian Alps, but especially so on the mountains of this district, that can scarcely fail to attract the attention of the traveller, who constantly hears it spoken of by the mountain population. This is the Va- leriana celtica, locally known as Speik, I whose penetrating odour is familiar i through the perfume called patchouli. \ The consumption is much diminished in I Europe, but considerable quantities are still sent to the East through Trieste. It is here extremely common on the schis- I tose ranges that attain to a height of I from 6,000 to 7,000 ft. Elsewhere in c2 388 STYRIAN ALPS. § 56. LAVANTTIIAL DISTRICT. tlie Alps it is either rare, or altogether absent. KOUTE A. BRUCK TO MAEBUKG BY EALLAN'AY. Austrian Englisli miles miles ilixnitz . . 2 9?r Frohnleiten . . U 7" Peggau . . l" 4|. Gradwein . 1 f Gratz . n Wiklon . . 3 U Leibnitz . H 7 Ehreiihausen . 1 4| IMarburg . 3 ]4 l.U in Part of the line of railway from Vienna to Trieste. Several of the snia ler stations are omitted. The distances between the railway- stations, as given in the Company's bills, are usually exaggerated. Reference was made in § 54 to the singular meeting uf the Mur and the Miirz at Bruck. After flowing in exactly opposite directions to the point of junc- tion, the united streams flow southward tlirough a deep defile which traverses the eastern extremity of the Alpine zone of crystalline slates. For nearly all the way to G-ratz the valley preserves the cliaracter of a broad defile with steep lateral walls, through which the Mur rolls its abounding waters in a sinuous course, which has doubtless much en- larged the original breadth of the valley. A contrast to the numeuous old castles that crown v.nc eminences above the river is shown by a large modern castle, a few miles S. of Brack, near the little station of Fernegg. A little farther on the traveller passes the opening of a lateral glen called Breitcnan, through which a mountain path goes eastward to Birkfeld on the Feistritz. The Breite- nau divides the ridge of the EennfeJd (5,322') from that of the Hoch Lantsch (5,683'), two of the highest summits of the district extending E. of the Mur. The summit of the latter mountain is remarkable for the- number of rare plants here found at a very moderate ele- vation. Amongst others may be named Delphinium elatum, Cardarnine trifolia, Draba stellata, Vdtaria alliacea, Poten- tilla elusiana, Saxifroga hieraciifoUa, Primula integrifoUa, and Orchis signi- fera. The mountain is easily ascpuded from the follo^dng station of Mixnitz, which lies at its foot. Here the valley enters the zone of palseozoic rocks (De- vonian limestone ?) which extends along the S. side of the crystalline slates. In the mountain c-aWeA Rothelstein (4,068'), rising SE. of Mixnitz, is a very remark- able cavern, long famous as the Drachen- hbhle. The legends current among the natives rested on the fact that large qiiantities of bones of unknown origin were constantly extracted from the re- cesses of this extensive cave. It is 1,500 ft. above the village, and is said to be an hr.'s walk from the entrance to the farthest part yet explored, where very fine stalactites are found. Near the Frohnleiten station (1,340') is a large new castle of Prince Lobkowitz, who has another in the neighbouring glen of j the Gamsgraben. Lovers of the pictur- esque will prefer the ruined towers of Pfaunberg and those of the castle of Rabenstein, whose lords died oiit in the 15th century. The valley here becomes so narrow that passage for the rly. was obtained only by constructing a great gallery, partly tunnel, partly arcade, over which the high-road is carried, while the trains run within. A short way beyond it is Peagau {\ ,2Qt). There is here a good inn (Ho-hhuber's). On ROUTE A. GRATZ. 180 the opposite bank of the 31ur is the | opening of the glen of the Uebelbaeh, \ through which lies the way to Knittel- feld, noticed in Ete. F. Close to the ! junction of the Uebelbach Ts-ith the Mur, i on the rt. bank of the river, is the town j of Feistritz, where iron, copper, and i lead from the neighbouring mines are ; worked. Here the rly., which has hitherto fol- ; loMed the I. bank, crosses to the opposite side of the Mur, and keeps to it for the remainder of the way. At the Gradii'dn station (1,208') a glen opens to the W., in which, about 2 m. distant, stands the Cistercian Monastery of Rein, with a large church containing several fine moi.uments. This lies in a small basin containing fossiliferous lacustrine de- , posits of miocene age. "We are here near the verge of the extensive marine de- posits belonging to the same geologic j era, which extend hence through a great i part of Lower Styria and the adjoining parts of Hungary. The valley does not fully open out until the rly. approaches Gratz (Hotels : Erzherzog Johann, near the principal square, good ; Ele- phant, of equal pretensions, but less well ' situated, being on the rt. bank of the , Mur ; in the next rank to these may be named the Goldenes Eoss, on the rt. liank; Stadt Trieste in the Jacomini- i platz, 1. bank ; Groldene Krone ; &c.), ! the capital of Styria. Few towns in ; Europe have shown more rapid growth, i and have been more embellished and j improved within the last 2o years. The ground once occupied by ramparts and glacis has been covered with fine streets, and handsome planted walks, and several subm-bs on both banks of the Mur have been incorporated with the town. The population now surpasses 7o,0f>0 ; and this may fairly claim to be the largest and finest city ■within the limits of the Alpine chain. Yet, as compared with less important places in S-B-itzerland or Italy, this appears singularly behind the age. It is as completely a German provincial town, where proTineial habits and usages reign supreme, as a large town in the east of England is purely English. If you have not learned to devour three he-Avy meals at the German canonical hours, you will seek in vain at the best hotels for dinner at 5 or 6 o'clock, unless you secure the point by previous negotiation. You may often meet good-nature, and it may be real kindness, from the inhabitants, bi;t if you ever expect anyone to act as though time were of the slightest value, you are doomed to certain disappointment. Gratz was at one time resorted to by strangers of limited income, who found here many of the comforts of life with a climate superior to that of most of the large towns of Germany. It is said that the advantage of relative cheapness has nearly disappeared, since the increase of population and rapid communication with the capital have gone far to equalize prices. The wines of Lower Styria and the adjoining parts of Hungary are good and cheap, and the beer of Gratz is in high repute, thougli on the spot they think proper to sell it as ' Wiener Bier.' The Schlossberg, on^ e the site of a fortress, is now laid out with public walks; and, as it rises 40* > ft. above the Mur, it commands an ex- tensive view over the neighbouring coun- try. The finest parts of the town are the chief square, or Hauptwach Platz, with the adjoining Herren Gasse, a stately street, with the ancient Land- haus, or place of meeting of the Estates of Styria, and some other handsome buildings. When the stranger has seen these, and the new streets and public walks on the E. and NE. side of the town, he will have obtained a suffi- cient impression of the whole. The naturalist will not fail to visit the Johan- neum, an institution for the advancement of science and its practical applications, which owes its origin to the persevering exertions of the late Archduke John. It includes a school of science, with a staif of 20 professors, an excellent museum, M-ith very rich rnineralogioal and geolo- gical collections, and a valuable herba- rium, chieflyformed by Dr. Maly. the au- thor of the 'Flora St^T-iaca,' and finally, a large library, ■with a reading-room to 390 STYRIAN ALPS. § 56. LAVANTTHAL DISTRICT. which access is readily obtained. On one side of the building is a botanical garden, tolerably well kept up. Its height above the sea is 1,140 ft. The rly. to Kutschach is noticed in Rte, C. The favourite mountain excursion of the people of Gratz is the ascent of the Schockel (4,714:'). The summit is ;ii;out 9 m. distant. As this is only a lirtle E, of due N., it is nearer to the Peggau station than to Grratz, and may be equally well reached from that place. T!ie ordinary way is by a road leading XE. across tlie range of hills that divide the Mur from the upper valley of the Raah. At a place called Badegund, near the chief source of that river, the road is quitted, and the remainder of the way is performed on foot or on horseback. The view includes the eastern portion of the vStyrian Alps, and extends far over the adjoining portion of Hungary. The botanist may find some local species, but the mountain is not nearly so rich in rare plants as the Hohe Lantsch, mentioned above. There is a good restaurant at the Gratz railway-station, which is rather distant from the centre of the town, in a new suburb on the rt. bank of the Mur. Resuming his journey by the railway, the traveller follows the level country on the Vr. side of the 3Iur for about 12 m., till the hills again close in towards the river, and the stream descends more swiftly to the Wildon station (935'). Here the Kainach, which drains the SE. side of the range of the Glein Alps (Rte. C), joins the Mur. The castle of Ober-Wildon. on a rock above the river, is rendered illustrious by having served for several years as the observatory of Tycho Brahe. By Weitendorf, on the K. side of the Kainach, about 4 m. dis- tant, there is an outbreak of basalt through the overlying tertiary rocks. A few miles S. of "Wildon the traveller may see to the W. the opening of the [ valley through which the Lasnitz bears \ down the drainage of the Stainzer Alps ! (Rte. E). Instead of flowing westward ; to join the Mur, it turns S. parallel to that river, and joins the Sulm, which follows the same course. Between these streams and the Mur is an extensive alluvial plain, extending about 8 m. to the junction of the waters, some way S. of the Leibnitz station (857'). In the angle between the Sulm and the Mur stood the Roman city Flavium Solvense. Numerous coins and other antiquities have been found there, most of which are seen in the Museum of the Johan- ne\im in Gratz. A large number of Roman inscriptions have been built into the walls of a Schloss called Seckau 1^ m. from Leibnitz. It belongs to the Bishop of Seckau, whose see has been removed to Gratz. After crossing the Sulm by a massive bridge the rly. reaches the Ehrenhausen station (819'). Here we reach the base of the range of low hills that divide the Mur from the Drave ; but the rly. follows the former stream to SE. for a few miles to the Spielfeld station, where there is a fine Schloss belonging to Count Attems. [Vehicles ply from hence to Eadkershurg on the Mur, the frontier town of Styria, only about 1^ m. from the border of Hun- gary. Other conveyances lead to Glei' chenberg, a place now much frequented in summer for the sake of its mineral waters. There is one spring supplying chalybeate water and another which resembles that of Selters in Nassau, often used at table in Gratz and else- where. The place is said to offer ex- cellent accommodation, and to be pret- tily situated, at the head of a valley in the hills N. of the Mur, about 18 m. from the little town of Mureck, or 25 m. from Spielfeld. It is overlooked by a castle on the top of a rock 1,958 ft. above the sea, erected as a barrier against the Turks when their frontier, now that of Hungary, was only 5 or 6 m. distant.] Between Spielfeld and Marburg the railway, in traversing the range of hills called Windische Bi'ihef, goes throxigli very pretty, picturesque country, of which little is seen from the rly. carriage. The summit level is tra- versed in a tunnel, about 3 furlongs in ROUTE B. — LAVANTTHAL. 301 length, and to this succeeds a great via- duct of about equal length, earned by 64 arches across the valley of the Pos- nitz. The rly. then cuts through the E. end of the Posruck range (mentioned in § 00, Rt€. A), and presently reaches Marburg (885'), the junction station for the rly. to Villach (§ 55, Rte. A). There is a pretty good restaurant at the station. The town is much increased of late years, and has now fully 11,000 inhabitants. Its position in the midst of a rich wine district, connected by railway with Vienna, Trieste, and Kla- genfurt, and with Hungary by the navi- gable stream of the Drave, produces a considerable amount of local traffic. Near the town is a large factory for making and repairing the rolling stock of the South Austrian Railway Com- pany. The town has little to attract the attention of a stranger. The best inns are Stadt Wien, and Stadt Merau — the latter near the rly. station. Kot'TE B. MA.RBUHG TO JUDEXBURG, BY THE LAVAKTTHAL. Austrian English miles miles Unter-Draubnrg (by railway) 8^ 40 Lavamiind (by road) . . H 6 St.Andra . . . . 2f V2\ Wolfsberg . . . . ij 5 J St. Leonhard . . . . 2f isj Obdach 2 9^ Judenburg . . . • 2| ll| 20i 96i Post-road between Wolf sberg and Judenburg. The road through the Lavantthal, here described, is at once the most direct and the most agreeable way for a tra- veller approaching the upper valley of the Mur from Lower Styria. Though the road along the Drave is picturesque, most travellers will take the rly. as far as Unter-Drauburg (§ 55, Rte. A). At that place the rly. quits the valley of the Drave, and the traveller will do well to engage a carriage thence to Wolfsberg, as there are no post-horses on the way. The old post-road to Kla- genfurt is followed as far as Lavamniid (1,24:8'), standing at the junction of the Lavant with the Drave. Here the Kla- genfurt road is left to follow the banks of the Drave, while a branch road fol- lows the rt. bank of the Lavant into the Lavantthal. The Alpine traveller who hears the scenery of this valley vaunted as the most beautiful in Carin- thia must dismiss from his mind the impressions that such language is apt to convey. Although the mountains on either side attain a height of more than 5,000 ft. above the valley, the elements of wildness and grandeur are here al- together wanting. The soft and wavy outlines of the lower slopes, clothed with the richest vegetation, the frequent recurrence of neat villages and scattered houses, and the gentle declivity of the higher ranges that form the background, make up scenery whose beauty is more fully appreciated by the Latin than the Teutonic races. The geologist will find much to interest him in this very ancient valley, whose existence apparently dates from the cretaceous period. During the miocene period it appears to have been first a freshwater lake, and aftei-wards a bay, in which the characteristic marine fossils of that age were deposited. The superficial dejwsits, occuppng the greater part of the centre of the valley, are alluvial, or diluvial, deposits of modern origin. The course of the Lavant as- cends for several miles towards the NW. till the valley turns northward on ap- proaching St. Andra. On the way the road passes St. Paul (1,314'), On rising ground near that little town is the ancient Benedictine Abbey from i which it takes its name. It was founded 392 STYRIAN ALPS. § 5G. LAVANTTHAL DISTRICT. in the 11th century, and contains many ancient 3ISS. and other objects of an- tiquity. The fine church is the resting- place of many of the early princes of the house of Habsburg. St. A/idrd (1,491'), a charmingly situated little town, was for many cen- turies the seat of tlie Bishops of Lavant, •whose residence has lately been trans- ferred to Marburg. The Koralp is full in view, and may be ascended from hence as well as from' Wolfsberg (Ete. E). At St. Andra the Lavamiind road joins the post-road from Klagenfurt to the La- vantthal. This passes by VblkermarJct (3i Aust. m. from Klagenfurt), and goes thence to Grijfen, remarkable for ruins of vast extent, whose origin is imper- fectly known. A very picturesque road leads thence through the hills to St. Andra, distant 3| Aust. m. from Vol- kermarkt. Amid luxuriant meadows, orchards, and cornfields, the roiid from St. Andra runs due X. to Wolf.shtrg (1,5] 0'), the chief place in the Lavantthal, with several inns. The best is Pfundtner's, by the bridge ; Schellanders is also recommended. Above the town, overlooking the track leading to the Koralp (Ete. E), is one of the finest modern castles in Austria, built, at a cost of two millions of florins, ' by Count Henkel, a Prussian gentleman, owner of the great iron- works of Zelt- weg on the Mur. Although the archi- tecture leaves room for criticism, the general eiFect is excellent. In the grounds, which are beautiful, there is a mausoleum of the wife of the Count, with a good statue by Kiss, of Berlin. A diligence plies from "Wolfsberg to Yolkemiarkt, a distance of 4^ Aust. m., and a rougher vehicle goes t\^^ce a week | to Koflach (Ete. D). A small open cart, j starting in the evening, carries the letters, and two or three passengers, to Ol^daeh and Judenburg. The upper part of the Lavantthal is so pleasing that the pedestrian may prefer to walk as far as Eeichenfels. He has a choice of two ways for going hence to St. Leonhard. The more agreeable, and rather the shorter, mounts a little E. of due N. through a glen leading to Pre' Uau, whose mineral waters resemble those of Gleichenberg. but the accom- modation is much rougher. As at that place there are two springs, one chaly- beate, the other slightly saline, and charged with carbonic acid gas, like ' that of Selters. Mixed with wine it is a pleasant drink. Crossing a low pass, the track descends northward from Pre- blau to St. Leonhard. The botanist will prefer to follow the post-road from I Wolfsberg to that place, as he may find , by the way two of the rarest gems of , the flora of this region — Saxifraga (or ! Zahlbrncknera) imradoxa and Mcehrin- gia diversifoUa. Above Wolfsberg the main valley is narrowed between rather steep wooded . slopes, and the course of the stream is ! sinuous. Eather more than half way ! a torrent is crossed, and beyond the I bridge, at the hamlet of Twimherg, a i branch road mounts eastward towards : the Pack (Ete. D). About 3 m. farther I the valley opens out. and the road runs [ nearly at a level till it approaches I St. Leonhard (2,388'), a semi-fossil I little town, whose stillness contrasts I with the bustle of Wolfsberg. It has a very fair inn (Schellanders). Over the town, on the E. slope of the valley, conspicuous from a distance, a fine Gothic church stands on a terrace sus- tained by massive ramparts. It has some fine stained glass, and deserves a visit. Above St. Leonhard the road ascends more rapidly to Reichenfeh (2,702'), the last place in the main valley. The Lavant here descends to SE. from the Sirbitzkogel, and on the opposite side another torrent flows into the valley through the Prethal. The frontier of Styria is passed immediately beyond Eeichenfels. but the watershed, and summit level reached by the road, is about 2 m. farther. This is called Obdachcr Sattel (3,174'). A short but rapid descent leads thence to Ohdach (2.802''), a little market town, with a very fair inn, nearly opposite the post. This is the most convenient place for making the ascent of the Sirbitz- ROUTE C. — GRATZ TO JUDENBURG. 393 kcgd (7,863'), and the Obdacker Speik- kogd (6,625'). The former, which is the highest of the Seethaler Alps, is easily reached by following the ridge that ascends westward from the Ob- dacher Sattel. A number of small tarns lie at a considerable height, not very far below the summit. One of these, called Lavantsee (6,111'), is the chief source of the Lavant. Most of the others pour their torrents to the Mur, The steeper, "W. side, of the mountain sends its drainage to the Gurk through the Olsga (§ 55, Rte. B). The Seethaler Alps, called in botanical books Judenburg Alps, are rich in Al- pine plants not commonly seen on the comparatively low ranges S. of the Mur. On the E. side of Obdach is the group of mountains whose highest summit is locally called Speikkogel, like the Kor- alp, Saualp, and most of the higher mountains of this district, and is here distinguished as Obdacher Speikkogel. Both this and the Sirbitzkogel may be quite as easily reached from Reichen- fels, but the accommodation at Obdach | seems better. The road from Obdach is at first very agreeable. It descends along the Granitzenbach to Weisskirchen (2,325'), passing on the way by the niins of the once famous castle of Eppeiietein, per- haps the most ancient in Styria. At AVeisskirchen the road turns westward across a level tract (a terrace of dilu- vium), and in about 4 m. reaches Judenburg (described in § 53, Rte. A). Before entering that place it is neces- sary to descend a steep slope in order to cross a deep Graben, excavated in the diluvium by an insignificant moun- tain torrent on the E. side of the town. Route C. geatz to judenbxirg, by koflach. Strassgang (by railway) Liboch . Krottendorf . Voitsberg Kbflach . "Weisskirchen (by road) Judenburg Lustrian English mile3 miles 4f 41 .' n 7 4| 4f 23| . 1 4 m 53i The completion of a branch railway from Koflach has greatly facilitated access to both the mountain ranges of this district, but especially to the so- called Glein Alps, which lie between Koflach and the upper valley of the Mur. Koflach lies near the head of the valley of the Kainach, which falls into the Mur at Wildon (Rte. A). The chief object of constructing the branch rail- way was to give an easier outlet to the bituminous coal, which is extracted in considerable quantities near the head of ' the valley. The passenger traffic is very limited, being apparently almost con- fined to the people of the villages by the way. Two trains daily each way amply suffice for the present requirements. Although this is a very direct way from Gratz to Judenburg, and the upper part of the Murthal, it involves the passage of a relatively high ridge, more than 5,000 ft. above the sea. On that account, passengers from Lower Styria prefer to go by the Lavantthal (last Rte.), and those starting from Gratz usually make the detour by Bruck. As Gratz is separated from the Kainachthal by a range of considerable hills, the rly. is at first carried SW. for nearly 8 m., passing the SE. end of that range, and enters the valley only about \\ m. before reaching Liboch. 394 STYRIAN ALPS. § 56. LAVANTTHAL DISTRICT. From that, or the preceding station of Premstetten, it is an easy walk of about 2 m. to Dobelbad {1, 0S6'). There are here two warm mineral springs, and a neatly fitted-up bathing establishment, which is a frequent resort of pleasure parties from Gratz. Before reaching Liboch the rly. turns to NW., and maintains that direction to the terminus at Koflach. The scenery is pleasing, and the trains go at a pace that allows travellers to see much of the country'. To the W. the rolling ranges of forest-clad hiUs rise in successive undulations, and are backed by the wavy outline of the Stanizer Alps. The church of St. Johann is conspicuous on a hill to the rt. before reaching the Krottendoi'f station, near to the pretty little town of Ligist, lying in a recess W. of the road. Above Krottendorf the hills close on either side of the valley, and they do not open out again till we approach Voitsberg (1,260'), a very ancient little town, the chief place in the Kai- nachthal. A short way above Voitsberg the valley divides, and the main branch mounts NN W. to the village of Kainach (1,835'). The extreme head of the valley leads to the main range of the Glein Alps, a short way SW. of the Gleinalpen-Speikkogel (Rte. F), which may be ascended from Kainach. The rly. is carried through the NW. branch of the valley to Koflach, standing about 3 m. above the junction. (No informa- tion as to inns on this road.) About 2 m. above Koflach the stream that flows by that place is formed by the junctions of the torrents from two mountain glens, called respectively Sal- lathai, and Gradenthal. The former is that followed by the road to "Weiss- kirchen ; but the traveller, not pressed for time, will do well to make an ex- cursion to the head of the Gradenthal, which offers some of the boldest scenery in this district. It is enclosed between high crags of limestone (probably of De- vonian age), which abounds in caverns. The most interesting of these, though rather difficult of access, is that called H: idnische Kirche. It is entered through a natural arch of rock, standing de- tached from the mountain, and com- manding a view which is especially striking when the traveller returns to the light of day from the interior of the cavern. The road follows a sinuous course, with a general direction to WNW., in ascending through the SaUathal. The highest village is Salla (2,818'), where there is a glass-house, one of several in this neighbourhood. Here the road enters on the crj-stalline slates that constitute the main ridge of the Glein Alps. The summit of the Stubalp Pass (5,130') is not much below the general level of the ridge, in which there is no prominent elevation excepting the liap' pelkogl (6,310'), which rises 4 or 5 m. SW. of the pass. This commands a very vsdde view, especially on the SE. side, where it extends to the plains of Hungary, A short way below the pass, on the XW. side, is a sort of Tauern- haus, or mountain inn (beim Stiibler). In descending, the road keeps along a ridge that divides two glens — the Lobming G-raben, on the rt., and on the 1. the Feistritzthal, with the village of Feistritz, one of many places in Styria and Carinthia bearing that name. The plain is reached a short way from Weisskirchen, whence the road to Ja- denburg is noticed in the last Rte. ROUTE E. — GRATZ TO SCHWANBERG. 395 EOUTE D. GRATZ TO WOLFSBEBG, BY KOFXACH. Austrian English miles miles Kbflach (by railway) . 5J 26 Wolfsberg (by road) . 6 28J Hi 54i Stellwagen twice a week from Koflach to Wolfsberg, carrying only 4 passengers. This is an easy and agreeable way for a traveller going from Gratz to the valley of the Drave, who wishes to take the Lavantthal on his way. The pedes- trian need not go so far as Koflach, as the road from that place turns SSW., and mounts rather steeply to Edehchrott (2,696'), while that place is reached in not much more time by a foot-path that ascends nearly due E. from Voitsberg. The road after passing Edeischrott fol- lows a very sinuous course, winding above the 1. bank of the Teigitschbach, and finally descending to cross that tor- rent. A long ascent then leads to the lowest pass in the range of the Stainzer Alps, known as Die Pack (3,870'). The stellwagcn travels very slowly, and em- ploys from 8 to 9 hrs. to reach Wolfs- berg. The summit is a broad undulating ridge, not commanding any remarkable view, but the scenery in descending through the Twwiherg Grahen is pleas- ing, if not very striking. The post-road through the Lavantthal is joined at Twimberg, nearly 7 m, above Wolfsberg (Rte. B). The pedestrian, without very much lengthening his day's walk, might follow the ridge of the Stainzer Alps southward from the summit of the Pack, ascend the Handalp (6,066'), one of the most conspicuous summits X. of the Koralp, and descend to tlie Lavantthal through a glen that opens at St. Ger- traud, about 3 m. NE. of Wolfsberg. EouTE E. GEATZ TO W^OLFSBERG, BY SCHWANBEBO AND THE KOEAXP. Austrian English miles miles Liboch (by railway) . 2 Stainz (by road) . . 13 Landsberg . "4 H Schwanberg . . 1 4| Koralp (on foot) . . n llj Wolfsberg , 2 H 11 52 This is the way which will be pre- ferred by most pedestrians going from Gratz to the Lavantthal, and especially by the botanist ; but it cannot be ac- complished in less than two days. A public conveyance, very slow, meets the morning train at the Liboch station, and takes passengers thence to Stainz., Between that place and Schwanberg the road is for the most part so rough that no time is saved by taking a coun- try carriage. Where time is an object an active walker may accomplish the journey to AVolfsberg in a long summer's day, starting by the early train from Gratz to Leibnitz (Rte. A), and taking a carriage from that place to Schwan- berg (about 19 m.), he may reach Wolfs- berg on the same evening. The usiial estimate alloMS 6 hrs. for reaching the summit of Koralp from Schwanberg, and 3^ hrs. for the descent to Wolfs- berg; but 8 hrs., exclusive of halt»s, will be amply sufficient for a moderately good walker. The course followed from Liboch to Schwanberg lies SSW, across the course of the streams that drain the flanks of the Stainzer Alps.- 396 STYRIAN ALPS. § 56. LAYANTTIIAL DISTRICT. It is therefore necessary to traverse a number of intervening ridges, but these are so low that they do no more than give agreeable variety to the walk. On the way from Liboch to Stainz, the botanist will observe Cirsium anglicum in the meadows. The larger villages of thisdistrict — styled niarkten (market- towns) — are clean and well built, and the best inns, which are clean and com- fortable in appearance, are commonly kept by the local butcher (Fleischhauer) and the brewer, so that a traveller is likely to find either good meat or good beer, if not both. Stainz is a pretty place, surrounded by orchards. Follow- ing the road to Landsberg the traveller leaves on the rt. hand the hamlet of Gams ; but the botanist will turn aside from his direct course, and enter a lit tie glen — drained by a streamlet that passes below the hamlet — locally called Gamsgrabcn. Here, under overhanging rocks, in damp places, he will find two very rare plants — Saxifraga paradoxa, and Moehringia diver sifolia, in greater abundance than in the Lavantthal. The walk from Gams to Landsberg, chiefly by foot-paths, is ver}-^ agreeable ; but the scenery of this district is to the Alpine traveller somewhat of the baby-house order, reminding him rather of some parts of England than of the regions where Xatiu-e has attained her full growth. Landsberg — sometimes called for dis- tinction Deutsch Landsberg — is on the Lasnitz, a stream that, after uniting several mountain torrents, ultimately joins the Sulm. Kear at hand is a pic- turesque castle standing on a rocky ridge, but abandoned to decay, belong- ing to Prince Lichtenstein. The brewer and the butcher confront each other in the main street with rival ians, both attractive in appearance. The ascent of the Koralp may be made from this place by a circuituous, but apparently attractive, way, passing by Trahiitten, St. Maria, and a summit >'. of the Kor- alp, perversely called Eareuthal. The road from Landsberg to Schwanberg is better than that to Stainz, and a little time may be saved by taking a carriage. On the way is passed HoUeneck, another castle of Prince Lichtenstein, some- times inhabited in summer. It is said to contain interesting objects of art and antiquity. The largest village, or markt, of this neighbourhood is Schwanberg (1,907'), on the Sulrn^ which here issues from a narrow glen descending from the Koralp, and flows through more open ountry, to Leibnitz, there turning southward to follow for some distance a course parallel to the Mur (see Rte. A). Grrasser's inn at Schwanberg is very fair, but it is said there is better accommodation at another house (bei Kodel?). The ascent of the Koralp (7,010') is commonly made from Schwanberg; and the portion of the range adjoining that summit is often collectively called ScJtuanberger Alps. It must be recol- lected that here, as well as at Wolfs- berg, the mountain is scarcely known by any other name than Speikkogel. After following for a short distance the glen of the Sulm, where there are large saw-mills, the track, which is practica- ble for rough carts, begins to ascend the slope above the rt. bank of the stream. It soon turns quite away, and finally gains a ridge on which stands the pilgi'image church of St. Anna (3,268'). Thencefoi-ward the way lies along the ridge of the mountain which divides the waters flowing to the Sulm from those that descend to the Drave, near Salden- hofen, through the Peistritzbach. As the ridge is broad and ill-defined, and there are many paths, a guide is required by a stranger who would take the most direct course. But those who seek re freshment by the way will be tempted to diverge somewhat from the direct course, and follow the cart-track to Ochsetiwald. This is a small group of houses (about 4,500 ft. above the sea) that seems to have grown up about a steam saw-mill that has converted into planks a great part of the forest that once clothed the flanks of the Koralp. There I is here a rough little mountain inn, not ! bad of its kind, where a few beds are ROUTE F. PEGGAU TO KNITTELFELD. 397 available for travellers who would reach the summit early. It stands on the SE. slope of the mountain, overlooking a glen whose torrent is a tributary of the Feistritzbach. Coffee, wine, beer, eggs, and sometimes meat, are forthcoming here. From this point no one used to moiintain walking need take a guide in fine weather. After ascending some way NW. by a rough slope beyond the saw-mill, the traveller enters a broad combe, or hollow, in the mountain, drained by a slender rivulet. But for the absence of heather, the scene will much remind him of the Grampian Hills in Scotland. The most direct course is, after ascending some way along the stream, to mount the slope above its rt. bank and gain the sum- mit of the ridge which leads to the top of the mountain. This is formed of three humps, lying nearly from E. to "W., of which the westernmost is the highest. The view is of course very extensive, but perhaps the most inte- resting portion is the Lower Lavantthal, laid out like a rich garden along the base of the mountain, dotted with many small towns and villages. Wolfsberg is concealed from view, but St. Andra, which is rather nearer, is full in sight. Beyond the Lavantthal is the range of -^ the Saualp, and farther N. the loftier Seethaler Alps, the only near mountains that overtop the spectator. Campanula alpina and several other local species are abundant, but the flora is less rich and varied than on most of the higher Styrian mountains. Those who wish to reach the top at sunrise, sleep at the Barenhiitte, only 1 hr. distant, lying some way N. of the course followed in ascending from Ochsenwald. But 2 hrs. are quite enough for the ascent from the latter place, where the accom- modation is much better. Many of those who ascend from Wolfsberg sleep at the Hipflhiitte, supplying clean but rough quarters. The ascent thence takes H hr. In descending to "Wolfsberg the course at first lies westward, but on reaching a track this bears gradually to the rt., and before long the traveller finds him- self overlooking a glen that descends NW. to join the Lavantthal near St. Gertraud, above Wolfsberg. Thence- forward the way lies constantly along, or near to, the summit of the ridge di- viding this glen from tbe main valley. Whenever there is a caoice of paths, select that which keeps nearest to the ridge. It is a very pleasant walk, sometimes through forest, sometimes over open ground, sometimes overlook- ing the Lavantthal to the 1., at others gaining views of the glen above men- tioned, and the mountains beyond it. Finally, by a judicious short-cut, the way may be shortened, and a road is reached that passes by the S. side of Count Henkel's stately castle, noticed in Rte. B. EotJTE F. PEGGAU TO KNITTELFELD, OK ST. MI- CHAEL, BY VEBELBACH. The traveller going from Gratz to the Ennsthal, or to the iipper valley of the Mur, may take a direct course from thf j Peggau station (Ete. A) across the I range of the Glein Alps, and, without I a great detour, gain a fine view by the ! way from the highest point of that ' range. From Feistritz, opposite Peggau, I a road mounts along the N. side of the Uebelbach torrent to the little indus- trial town of m STYRIAN ALPS. § 56. LAVANTTHAL DISTRICT. Uehdhach (L936'). The traveller may save his legs, though no time, by takjng a carriage as far as that place. Above the town the valley forks. The main branch of theUebelbach descends through a rather long straight glen, lying due W. A path leads that way to the ridge at its head, where there is a chapel and a little mountain inn, counted 4 hrs. from Uebelbach. From the sum- mit of the Gleinalp Pass the path de- scends in the same direction, nearly due W. along the Glcinhach, and finally enters the Murthal at St. Margarethen, about 3 m. below Knittelfeld (§ 53, Ete. A). In clear weather the traveller will not fail to reach the summit of the Gleincdpen-Sj^ieikkogel (6,508'), which lies N. of the Gleinalp inn, and may be reached in less than 1 hr. Being much nearer to the fine summits of the Johns- bacher Alps, and the range of the Les- i ser Tauern, the mountain view here is ; decidedly preferable to that from the I Koralp, noticed in the last Ete. j Another track goes from Uebelbach j along the WNW. branch of the valley, crosses the main ridge at a point some miles NE. of the Speikkogel, and de- scends to (S'^;. Michael, where the road from Lietzen on the Enns (§ 53, Ete. E) enters the Murthal. An active walker might ascend from Uebelbach to the Grleinalp inn, mentioned above, thence reach the top of the Speikkogl, and fol- low the ridge NE. from the summit till he reaches the path by which he could descend to St. Michael. CAENIC ALPS 530 CHAPTER XVII. THE SOUTH-EASTERN ALPS. SeCTIOX 62. CARXIC ALPS. Route A - Sillian to Yillach, by the Gail- thai. Ascent of the Do- bratsch .... 539 Route B — Yillach to Venice . 5-38 Route C - — Venzone to Pieve di Cad ore . 543 Route D — Yenzone to the Gailthal, by the Canal di Gorto. Ascent oftheParalba . 545 Route E — Lienz to Tolmezzo, by Kbt- schach and Monte Croce . 548 Route P - — Lienz to Maria Lukau. Ascent of the Kreuzkofel 551 Route G — Mountain roads between Yil- lach and Greifenburg 653 Route H — Pontebba to Hermagor, by Troppolach .... 554 Route I - - Longarone to Sacile Section 63. terglou district. 555 Ro-te A — Yillach to Trieste, by the Predil Pass .... 559 Route B — Caporetto to Tdine 5G3 Route C — Yillach to Laybach, by the Yal ey of the Save . . 5-34 Route D — Laybach to Tarvis, by Yeldes. Ascent of the Terglou . 507 Route E — Flitsch to Wurzen or Mois- traua 572 Route F — Flitsch to Resiutta . . 574 Route G — Laybach to Gorizia, by Idria or Adel.-berg . . . 578 Section 64:. karawankas and srlzbacher alps. Route A — Marburg to Trieste, by rail- way 583 I Route B — Laybach to Klagenfurt,by the I Loibl Pass. Ascent of the I Stou 689 ' Route C — Krainburg to Kiihnsdorf , by ' Bad Yellach. Ascent of the Ovir 591 Route D — CilU to Sulzbach, by the I Sannthal. Passes leading lo Sulzbach . . . .594 Route E — Cilli to Unter-Drauburg . 600 Route F — Cilli to Kappel, by Schwar- I zenbach . . . .601 In tlie preceding chapters of this vohime v/e have described the central crystalline ranges of the Eastern Alps, the broad calcareous zone that includes the Bava- rian highlands and the Alps of Lower Austria, Northern Salzburg, and part of Upper Styria, and, finally, in the last chapter, the region whicli, from the pre- doaiinance of one particular rock, may be called, 2^ar excellence, that of the Do- lomite Alps. There remains yet an ex- tensive region lying between the Valley cf the Drave and the Adriatic, rich in natural attractions, and sufficiently easy of access, but as yet little frequented by travellers. It includes mountain ranges that have common relations, both geo- graphical and geological, but which have been so profoundly separated by the chances of war and politics, that they have never been known by a common designation. In default of a recognised name, they are here spoken of collectively as the South- Eastern Alps. These include three principal ranges, which, with some outlying group.s. are § C2. CAkNIC ALPS. 531 descriljod in as mniiy different sections. The westernmost of these has been known to geographers since its valleys were frequented Roman highways as the chain of the Carnic Alps. Almost con- tinuous with this, between the valleys of the Drave and the Save, extends a range, nearly equally lofty, divided by local usage rather than upon solid scientific grounds into the groups of the Karawankas and tlie Sulzbacher Alps. South of the nearly continuous line that marks the axis of the Carnic and Karawankas chains rises the group of the Julian Alps, in many respects the most remarkable of this region. These are often spoken of by those ignorant of the geography of this region as if they formed a chain dividing the valley of the Save from the coast of the Adriatic ; but this is true only in so far as the chief sources of the Save lie in the inner val- leys of these Alps. From the time that the river issues from the interior valleys, and unites its various branches in the broad basin N. of Lai bach, it is sepa- rated from the Adriatic merely by a comparatively low zone of cretaceous rocks, having no connection, orographic or geologic, with the Julian Alps, and the traveller going from Laibach to Friuli makes a complete circuit of the E. and S. sides of these Alps without traversing any defined ridge ; nay more — so strange is the structure of the country — without being able to trace a watershed between the riverand the not distant sea-coast. The work of Messrs. Gill)ert and Chui'chill, so often referred to in the last chapter, has made several of the finest parts of this region known to many English readers ; and it is to be expected that an increasing number of travellers will gradually find their way to a country rich in novelty and beauty, and offering better accommodation than is generally found in remote places elsewhere in Eu- rope. Some are discouraged by learning that the ordinary dialect is Sclavonic, and this is true excepting in Friuli; but a large part of the population possesses also both German and Italian, and the cases are rare in which one or other of these languages is not spoken in inns, eA'en in out-of-the-way places. The dialect of Friuli (locally called Fnrhin) is not easy, even for Italians, and in some places a stranger may have a little difficulty in making himself understood. SECTION 62. CARXIC ALPS. CoxFrsiox is not imcommonly created in the minds of those not familiar with the region here described, by the resem- blance between the modern name of the province of Carniola, mainly consisting of the basin of the Upper Save, and that of the ancient Cam la, which inclvided the mountain region drained by the Tilaventus, now known as the Taglia- mento. Although the name Fr'mli has in modern times to a great extent sup- planted the older designation — includ- ing the mountain valleys along with the low country between the mouth of the Livenza and that of the Isonzo — the name Carnia is still in common use in the country, and seems to have preserved pretty nearly its ancient boundaries. The designation Carnic AJfs may per- haps in strictness be limited to the range which on the N. side divides the basin of the Tagliamento from the Gailthal ; but orographically it extends both to ■ W. and E. a little bevond those limits. m2 532 SOUTH-EASTEUX ALPS. G2. CAIINIC Ar.I'S. At the "\V. end it temuiiates in the riJy;e between the Sextentbal and the Drave, that subsides into the valley in the hill whereon stood the I\om;in citv of Agun- tum (§ 61. Ete. Hi; and to the E. it extends to the low ridge X. of Tarvis, where it is divided by the Gailitzbach from the "W. end of the Karawankas. It will be observed that while the Carnic range is drained on the S. side by valleys that converge towards the Tagliamento, which nltimately flows southward towards the Adriatic, on the N. side it forms one bounding wall of a long and straight valley, whose waters fiow nearly due E. to join those of the Drave. It may be questioned, indeed, whether this valley — the Gailthal — be not orographically the main branch of the Drave valley. On its northern side it is separated from the Drave by a range nearly equal in height to that of the Carnic Alps, but far less regular in construction, and very different in geo- logical formation. The Carnic range consists mainly of more or less crystal- line, and partly metamorphie rocks, re- ferred to the carboniferous series, and j only a few of the higher peaks are com- . posed of triassic dolomite. The northern range, which we shall call the Gailtkal | Eange, includes at least three groups, : which are divided by deep passes. At i the W. end, between the Upper Grailthal \ and Lienz, is the Krei'ckofcl Group, , culminating in the Kreuzkofcl (8,979'). ! Eastward of this is a central group, com- posed like the last almost exclusively of dolomite, whose highest summit is the : Reisskofel (7.74:9'). The eastern group ; is subdivided into many ridges divided by short glens, most of which are paral- ■ \A to the bounding valleys of the Grail and the Drave. The highest simimits of this group are the Staffberg (7,27o'j and the Dobratsch (7,067')- In the Carnic range the Paralba (8,820') waslong reckoned as the highest summit, although it falls far short of a group of peaks SW. of Mauthen, to which, until lately, little attention has been given by travellers. The writer has long been aware that the group in question consideral;ly surpassed the Paralba ; but having encountered un- favourable weather in this district in iSoi and 1857, he did not certainly know the position of its highest point. This is the Kdlirwund, or Kellerspitz, a mass rising with extreme steepness above the head of the Valentinothal (Rte. D). This was first climbed in 1868 by Dr. P. Grohraann. The height is probably little less than 9. .900 ft. Besides the outliers from the main ridge that diverge southward towards the basin of the Tagliamento, there is a considerable mountain mass, best known as the Premaggiore Group, divided from the main chain by the Canal diSocchieve, through which flows the uppermost branch of the Tagliamento. The highest summit of this group is probably the Monte Cridola (8,-i7o'); ^^^ the "^Pre- maggiore (8,127') is more generally known. More conspicuous than either, as it is the highest mountain that rises immediately above the plain of'FriuIi, is the 3Ionte Cavallo (7,377'). The extensive district including the mountain ranges and groups here enu- merated, is bounded on the N. by the Drave, and on the E. by tlie road from Villach by Tarvis and Pontebba which thenceforward follows the Fella and the Tagliamento till they enter the plain of Friuli. The southern boundary is marked by the low country between the Tagliamento and the Livenza, and on the E. side it is divided from the region described in the last chapter by the upper valley of the Piave and the road from Capo di Ponte to Conegliano. G-ood accommodation is found at Kot- schach and Hermagor in the Gailthal, at Bleiberg, at Tarvis, and at Pontebba, and very fair country inns at many other places in this district : but the spot which will most attract the mountaineer is the inn at Auf der Plecken, a few hundred feet below the pass of ilonte Croce (Rte. E). Near to the highest summits and the only glacier of this region, this place offers comfortable quarters and enjoyable scenery, tempt- ing to a prolonged stay. The botanist ROUTE A. — SILLIAX TO THE GAILTHAL. visiting the valleys of Friuli should procm'e a catalogue of the flora of that province, by Professor G-. A. Pirona, of Udine, containing very complete infor- ination as to the vegetable Trealth of this remarkably interesting region. He will bear in mind that the geographical term Carnia nieaus the mountain region drained by the Tagliamento, lying "W. of its affluent the Fella. EOUTE A. Sir.T.TAN TO YILLACH, BY THE GAILTHAX. ASCEXT OF THE DOBHATSCH. Hours' English ■walking miles Tilliach . 4 12 Maria Lnkau . 3 9 Kotschach . . 6(?) ]8(?) Hermagor , . 8 24 Arnoldsteiu . 7 21 Villach . 3 9| 31 93* ■Road between Sillian and Kotscliach barely pa'^sable for a light, strong, and narrow vehicle. Tolerable road from Kbtschach to Villach. The GaiWud ( Vallis Julia, and ValUs Gilia, of ancient geographers) has been already referred to in this work (§51, Rte. A), as the traveller descending along the Drave from its source at the Toblacher Feld passes the opening of the short and.stee'pKartifschthaI,-thvongh. which the head of the Gailthal is reached from the W. side. It is obvious by mere inspection of a map that the Gailthal and Kartitschthal lie in a single long trough, though inclined in opposite di- rections. Although it is possible to take a light carriage from Sillian to Ivotschach, time is lost by so doing, as moderate walkers will go faster than the vehicle, especially between Maria Lukau and Kotschac'h. In whatever way the joixrney be made, it will bo found a verj' long and hard day's work to reach the last-named place from >SY/- lian (3,611'), further noticed in § 51, Kte. A. About 2 m. below '•hat place, and a little below the junction of the Kartitschbach with the Drave, the latter stream is crossed, and the rough track begins to ascend a wooded hill. By a short cut St. Oswald may be left on one side. On the opposite side of the valley is seen the pilgrimage church of Holl- hrucJc (4,451'). Sexten (§ 61, Ete. E) may be reached from thence over the top of the Helmsint- (7,975'), which commands a remarkable view. Passing St. Leonhard (4,646'), the chief place in Kartitsch, the track rises to the nearly level plateau that forms the watershed between the short Kar- titschthal and the long vallej' of the Gail. The scenery here is pleasing, though not particularly striking, but the dolomite peaks of the northern range soon begin to attract attention. The track keeps throughout to the 1. side of the valley (going from Sillian), and the road passes somewhat higher up than the lowest point of the watershed. This is called Kartitscher Joch (5,363'), and is also locally called Tauern, Tlie Ty- rolese boundary extends several miles down the Lessachthcd , which is the local name for the upper part of the Gailthal above Kotschaeh. It is an easy and agreeable walk from the summit-level to Ober Tilliach (4.893'). The inn (a large house conspicuous in approaching the village from the E. side) seems fairly good for a place so rarely visited by strangers, save pilgrims who take this way to 3Iaria Lukau. The road as far as that place is in tolerable order, and an active walker ■will perform the dis- tance in 2h hrs. or less. Several excur- sions may be made from Tilliach, of 534 SOUTII-KASTEItX ALPS. § C2. CARXIC ALPS. which the most interesting is said to be the ascent of the Dehdi-rhoh.e (7,800'), which rises N. of the village. All the prominent summits of the Kreuzkofel range enjoy very fine views of the High Tauern Alps to the N., and the Carnic Alps in the opposite direction. Unlike its rivals, which are mostly difficiilt of access, this summit is easily reached in 3 hrs. from the village. The road descends from Ober Tilliach, and after passing two or three hamlets, and a larger ^Aace called St. Jcnewein (4,159'), or Unter TiUiach, reaches the frontier between Tyrol and Carinthia, At one time this probably agreed with the limit between the Slavonic popula- tion of the lower valley and their Grer- man-speaking neighbours ; but Grerman seems at present to prevail throughout the Lessachthal, and the Wendish tongue predominates only after passing Kotschach. The dialect about Tilliach is somewhat peculiar, and is said by Schaubach to resemble that of Silesia. Less than 2 m. beyond the border of Carinthia the traveller reaches Maria LuJaiio (3,7o-4'), a straggling village, with a large church, which enjoys local celebrity throughout Carinthia as a place of pilgrimage. Close by is a convent, erected in the ITth century by Cardinal '^.Yidmann. There are at least two good inns here. Guggenburger's is probably the best ; but the writer, happening to stop at another house (kept by Benz ?), found very fair accommodation, good food, and lov/ charges. On the S. side of the valley a short glen runs np towards the main range of the Carnic Alps. The road from Maria Lukau to Kot- schach is, as the writer believes, the most remarkable, or, if the reader pleases, the most infamous of its kind in. Europe. If called a road, and said to be traversed l)y carriages, it must be recollected that the vehicle used is little more than a strong basket on wheels, of C0urse witho\it springs, and so light that it may be dragged over almost any ob- stacle. At Maria Lukau the Gail be- gins to excavate in the friable deposits that fill the bottom of the valley a ra- vine which extends hence very nearly to Ivotschach. As the mountains of the Kreuzkofel range rise directly from the valley, each of the torrents and lesser streamlets that furrow their sides pur- sues its own separate course towards the Gail, and each, on reaching the -bed of the main valley, has excavated a separate ravine, locally called Graben, often of considerable depth. When it is said that 72 such graben have to be crossed between 3Iaria Lukau and Kotschach, each involving a detour of from 3 or 4 min. to \ hr., that the road in these graben is seldom more than 6 inches wider than the vehicle, and is liable to be carried away with every fall of rain, it will be imagined that it is a more serious undertaking to travel this way in a carriage than to accomplish an ordinary glacier pass. The writer has given the distance as usually reckoned; and he thinks it possible that an active walker may accomplish it in 6 hrs., though certainly not -with ease. In his own case the vehicle took very nearly 10 hrs. ascending from Kotschach, of which nearly 1 hr. was given to a halt at Lie- sing ; and the road was not in unusually bad order. The first village passed is Lorenzcn (3,612'), the most central situation for mountain excursions in this part of the valley, as two paths lead northward to Lienz (Rte. Y), while on the opposite side of the Gail the track mounts to the Hochalbelpass (Ete. D), leading either to Forno Avoltri or to Comelico, through Val Visdende. (No information as to inns at Lorenzen.) The next place of any note is Liesing (3,40o'), with an un- inviting inn, 434 ft. above the level of j the Gail. In this part of the Lessach- I thai the type of the population appears ' to be physically low, and cretinism is I not rare. Although the scenery is generally pleasing, its attractions are not in proportion to the difficulties and ! endless delays of this extraordinary j road; and it is with genuine satisfaction ! that the traveller achieves the final de- scent that leads him down to the level ROUTE A. in.T.MAGOI^. OOO of the Gail, where the valley opens out a little above Kotschach. lu ail maps, without distinction, the place indicated as the local capital of this part of the valley is Mauthen (Rte. E), a compara- tively deserted villac-e on the S. side of the Gail, while the entire vitality of the neighbouring district is centred at Kotschach (2,264'), though it can Bcarcely, in ordinary language, be called a village. In a very pretty part of the valley, richly planted with deciduous trees, a number of large, comfortable, and clean-looking houses are scattered about with no regard to symmetry. Most of these stand apart, each with its garJeii and orchard. Here the traveller tiuds a thoroughly good country inn (beim Kiirschner), and it is said that equally good quarters may be had at the Post. The somewhat frequented road to Lienz, and the track to Auf der Pietken (Ete. E), converge to this point, and many pleasant walks may be found in the neighboixrhood. From many places hereabouts, and from at least two v^oints on the road, the summit of the Kellerwand is seen far overtopping the nearer mountains. Throughout the lung reach of the valley between Kotschach and Herma- gor the scenery is everywhere pleasing, though nowhere very striking. Nume- rous small villages and hamlets are seen on either side of the G-ail, mostly stand- ing on piles of debris poured into the main valley from lateral ravines. Xear Kotschach the most conspicuous summit is the PoUinick (7,631'), further noticed in Rte. E. The chief village passed on the v\-ayis Reisiiach,vc\ih. a tolerable inn. A little way N. of the village is the Rrissacher Bad, a small establish- ment for mineral baths, standing at the S. base of the sharp dolomitic peak of the Reisskofel (7,749'), whose summit, once considered inaccessible, may be reached, with little difficulty, in 3 hrs. Walten Hans is a good guide. About 16 m. from Kotschach the road crosses to the rt. bank of the Gail, passes TroppeJach, where the ti-nck from Pontebba (Ete. H) descends into t!i6 m:;in valley, and Watschig (Mayer's j inn, tolerable), which stands at the foot of one of the spurs of the Gartnerkofel. I Before long the road recrosses the river, I and turns somewhat aside from its 1. bank to reach Hermagor (1,914'), the chief place in the lower Gailthal. At the inn (zum Mohren) the traveller finds good quar- ters and civil treatment, tempting hiui to make this place his head-quarters for a few days. The situation is very agreeable, just at the opening of the Gitschthal, a pretty lateral glen, through which runs the road to "Weissbriach imd Greifenburg, noticed in Rte. G. Her- magor is Well known to botanists on i account of a remarkable plant dis- ! covered in the last century on the neigh- j bouring mountain S. of the Gailthal by j the eminent botanist Wulfen, and named I from him Wulfcnia Carinthiaca. Being I a large plant, with conspicuous purple I flowers, it is not easily over'ooked, and ' it is therefore higlily probable that it is \ absolutely confijit-d to the three locali- I ties now known, all very near together, I and being, in fact, spurs from a single I mass of mountain rising S. of Hermagor, ] which cidminates in the GartnerJcogd ! (about 7,200'?). Of these localities the i Kiihwegalp is nearest to Hermagor, I and is reached in about 3 hrs.; the I "Watschacheralp is nearer to "Watschig, i while tlie Auernickkogel overlooks the I Nosfeld Pass (Ete. H). Although this interesting plant has no European con- I gener, two closely allied species have been found in the higlilands of south , western Asia. It is confined to the upper portion of the zone of coniferous , trees, between about 5,200 and 6,000 ft., I but in the three places named above it 1 is so abundant as to usurp almost ex- clusive possession of the soil. I At Hermagor the toi-rent from the , Gitschthal, after flowing ESE. from "Weissbriach, turns abruptl}' due S. to join the Gail ; but in the eastern pro- longation of the axis of the Gitschthal is a deep trough, divided from the Gail by a pineclad ridge several miles in length. In this hollow lies the pretty r,:36 SOUTII-EASTKRN ALPS. § G2. CARXIC ALPS. Preseckcr See. The pedestrian may follow the rt. bank of the Gail below Hermagor ; but the carriage-road, taking a somewhat circuitous course, | quits the river and runs through the | depression above mentioned, passing the j Presecker See, and returning to the 1. I bank only about 13 m. lower down the main valley. In tliis part of the Gail- thai the two conspicuous mountains are the Dobratsch to the E., and the Gart- nerkogel a little S. of due "W. Soon after passing Einersdorf, the traveller reaches a point where he has a choice between several different roads to A'illach. For the pedestrian, the shortest way is to follow the 1. bank of the Gail to Fodcraun, a hamlet on the high-road about 4 m. from that town. Travelling in a carriage, the usual way is to cross the Gail by a wooden bridge leading to Feisiritz, and then follow a rough road that goes for some way along thert. bank of the river, till it turns southward to Anwldstew, the poct- station on the way between Yillach and Tarvis (Rte. 3^. At Eoderaun the Gailthal opens out into the broad valley that divides the Karawankas from the Styrian Alps. The miocene deposits that overlie the older strata in this broad trough are in their turn covered over by masses of diluvium and glacial drift, that in some places form undu- lating hills of considerable elevation. The Gail turns >"\V., and follows a sinuous course to join the Drave about 2 m. below Yillach (§ 55, Ete. A). A road frequently followed from Her- magor to Yillach, shorter but more hilly than that just mentioned, passes by a depression along the N. side of the Dobratsch. About 4 m. beyond the Presecker See the traveller leaves the road to Emersdorf, and begins to as- cend gently about due E. Almost immediately a branch road mounts northward towards a pass leading to Patemion, but the way to Yillach lies eastward to TratU-n (2,504'), a village standing on a terrace at a considerable height above the floor of the Gailthal. The way lies ESE. along this terrace, till the road reaches a gap at the W. end of the range of the Dobratsch, turns shar]:)ly to the N., and begins a rather steep, but not long, ascent leading to Kreutk, a small village with a neat- looking inn, about 3,000 ft. above the sea. This stands at the W. end of the trough that divides the Dobratsch from the Erzberg. Some 3 or 4 m. farther is Bleiberg (2,930'), a large, well-built village, with many comfortable houses, and a good inn. It derives its name from the important lead-mines in the adjacent Erzberg (5,295'), rising imme- diately N. of the village. The road to Yillach runs eastward by Heiligengeist (2,899') to Ob^rvellach, a' village on th^ Drave 3 m. above Yillach. The scenery of the lileihergthal, as the short valley is called that descends eastward towards the Drave, is not very picturesque, the valley being sadly shorn of timber, and the slopes somewhat uniform in aspect ; but Bleiberg is the most convenient starting-point for the ascent of the Dobratsch, which commands the most interesting and instructive panoramic view in this part of the Alps ; and there is probably no other place in the Eastern Alps where the geologist can acquire so full an insight into the order of succession of the sedimentary strata authenticated by the secure evidence of fossil remains. By application to one or other of the gentlemen engaged in the direction of the mines, the geologist will probably secure a guide conversant with the most interesting and instruc- tive spots in the neighbourhood. The Dobratsch (7,067'), better known among the German population of this district as the Villacher A^p, forms the eastern extremity of the range dividing the Gailthal from the valley of the Drave. As is apparent from the foregoing j pages, it is a nearly isolated mass. The ] Gail encompasses it on the S, and E. I sides, while it is divided from the ' ranges on the W. and N. by the de- I pression through which the road above I described goes from the Gailthal to I Bleiberg and Yillach. Rising as a ' great promontory between the Kara- ROUTE A. — DOBRATSCII. 537 wankas and the Styrian Alps, extre-mely Bteep on the S. side towards the Gail- thai, but sloping with a gentler de- clivity on the N. side towards Bleiberg, and east-ward towards Villaeh, the mountain is conspicuous throughout a great part of Lower Carinthia, and at an early date the piety of the two races ■who divide the adjoining territory con- verted it into a place of pilgrimage. The "Wendish church, built by a native of the Gailthal, stands a short way below the actual summit, which belongs to the Villaeh people, and is crowned by a German pilgrimage church. A small but solid house, containing three rooms, the key of which is kept at Blei- berg, supplies, when not overcrowded, good shelter for the night for travel- lers who would enjoy the evening and morning view. Of the two ways lead- ing to the summit from Bleiberg, the longer, but by far easier course, is by the ' Scharte.' A cart-track mounts more than half the way to the summit, and ladies may avail themselves of the light wicker carts of the country, well stuffed with hay. It would be possible to ride to within a short distance of the top, but it is not always easy to secure a trustworthy animal. The shorter way from Bleiberg is by a zigzag path — known as the Lahner — which mounts most of the way over slopes of debris. On attaining a height of about 5,300 ft. the view of the snowy range of the High Tauern begins to open beyond the lower intermediate ridges, and every step adds to the widening circle in the distant horizon. Having deposited his encumbrances at the house of refuge, only 103 ft. below the summit, the tra- veller hurries to the church, and slowly makes its circuit as he surveys the ■wonderful panorama that in favourable weather is here spread out before him. Though lakes are not wanting, for the "VVorther and Ossiacher Lakes are both in -view, the Rigi panorama surpasses this in the exquisite combinations of land and water for which it is famous, but, for the extent of the mountain ranges visible from a single point, this surpasses any view attainable from a point equally easy of access. In the crystalline central ranges of Tyrol, Salzburg, and Styria, nearly all the chief summits from the Hochgall and Rodtspitz to the Koralp — a distance of over 160 m. — are inc-luded in the view. On the S. side the eye embraces a zone of nearly equal extent, from the Marmolata to the higher peaks of the Sulzbacher Alps. As the mountain rises nearly due N. of the valley of Tarvis, where the Carnic and Kara- wankas chains subside to insignificant dimensions, the fine peaks of the Julian Alps are here seen to the utmost ad- vantage, rising far above the interme- diate ridges. The beauty of the -view is much enhanced by the contrast afforded by the rich valleys of the Gail and Drave, and the fruitful undulating plain of Lower Carinthia that stretches eastward more than 40 m. from the foot of the mountain. Both churches stand only a few feet from the verge of the precipice, which marks, as with a scar, the scene of one of the greatest bergfalls recorded in the Alps. A violent earthquake shock, on Jan. 25, 134:8 (not 1345, as stated in most guide-books), caused a huge mass to detach itself from the very summit of the mountain. The swift ruin fell into the lower Gailthal, overwhelming a space of several square miles. Ten villages (according to the local chro- nicles), seven hamlets, and three castles, were destroyed within a few minutes, and the course of the Gail being ar- rested, a lake was formed that has been slowly drained in the course of succeeding centuries. It is an easy, but not a very short, walk from the summit to Villaeh, descending to the Bleil)ergthal at Heiligengeist. If bound for Herniagoi*, the traveller may de- scend NW. to Elreuth, where he may usually count on obtaining a vehicle. It is possible to descend directly into the Gailthal by the formidably steep S. face of the mountain, but a good guide and a steady head are required by those who take that course. When 538 SOUTH-EASTERN ALPS. the sun beats upon the bare rocks the heat is very trying, especially in the lower part of the descent. It would exceed the limits of this work to enter into any details in regard to the geological structiire of the Do- bratach, and its relations to the ranges on either eide. The scientific traveller will doubtless study the memoirs of Lipoid, Peters, and other Austrian geologists who have carefully examined this district; but he should be aware that, owing to the comparative abund- ance of fossils, Bleiberg is a peculiarly favourable position for studying those members of the carboniferous series now known to geologii^ts as the Gail- thai beds, and their relations to the overlying trias. One of the best locali- ties for the Grailthal fossils is the ravine of the Xolsch G-raben, near Bleiberg. The summit of the Dobratsch is formed of the Dachstein limestone, referred by geologists to the Ebaetic series, or Infra- lias of Stoppani. 62. CARNIC ALPS. Routs B. VILLACH TO VENICE. Austrian EiKlis miles mi! ='3 Arnoldstein (post road) 2 Tarvi3 . 2 !i. ' Pontebba . '. 3 ]4 Resiutta . 3 U Yen zone . . n l.J Collalto ■i 1 i Udine . . . 2i r,} 18 fe4i Kilonr^trea Pordenone (railway) . 49 sai Sacile . . 33 h Conegliano . . 15 H Trevigo . 29 IS Mestre . . 18 y-k Venice . . 8 132 ■'•2 In posting, 2J Austrian miles are cliarged from Yillach to Arnoldstein. Before the introduction of railways, the line of road here described formed part of the most direct and easiest way from Vienna to Venice, and many per- sons in the latter city, and elsewhere in Italy, now suppose that important economic results would be attained by tlie construction of a line to connect Villach, the future terminus of the Rudolfsbahn railway, with Udine. In spite of some engineering difficulties which have long delayed the progress of the works, it is believed that the new line from Viilach to Trieste by the iPredil (see § 63, R;e. A) is far ad- |vanced towards completion. The pos- sible advantages to Italy of reducing I the distance by railway between Venice land Villach by 15 or IGm. are so slight and so problematical, that it is in the jhighest degree uulikely that a com- {petiug line will ever be seriously uu- jdertaken. Such as they may be, the I benefits of the proposed Pontebba line may be hereafter secured by a com- paratively easy and cheap branch line from Udine to Caporetto (^§ 63. Ete. B). It has been seen in the last R:e. that on escaping from the valley through which it descends from the Tyrolese -LUSCHARI BEEG. 539 frontier, the Gail turns NAY. along the S. base of the Dobratsch to join the Drave near Villach. The highway which connects Villach -vnth the valleys of the Isouzo and the Tagliamento is carried nearly at a level, passing near the Viilacher Warmbad, a neat bath- ing establishment, with mineral waters resembling those of PfetFers. The road keeps at some distance from the 1. bank of the Grail till it crosses that stream at Foderaun, and then ascends gently in a SW. direction, gradually receding from the Gail, but approach- ing its affluent the Gailitz. The course of this stream, hereafter followed oy the high-road, is of geographical in- terest. Originating in the deep and level valley of Saifnitz, where it is separated by no perceptible ridge from one of the chief affluents of the Ta- gliamento, it runs a little N. of E. through a depression that marks the boundar}'' between the Caruic Alps and the Karawankas, and, after receiving the drainage of several valleys of the Julian Alps, pursues its course nearly parallel to the Gail, till it turns to join that stream near Foderaun, shortly be- fore both are merged in tlie Drave. The valley below Tarvis is often called Gailitzthal ; but the hybrid name Cana- lethal is more frequently given collect- ively to the single valley that includes the course of the Gailitz and the head-waters of the Fella as far down as Pontebba. At the lower end of the Gailitzthal, and before the road to Tarvis ap- proaches that stream, an important post- road turns aside to the 1. at the hamlet of Tschnu, and crosses the western ex- tremity of the Karawankas range to the valley of the Save. See the road to Laibach, § 63, Ete. C. The road to Italy turns due E., and follows the Gai- litz to the picturesque A-illage of Arnold- stein, the first post-station. From the castle, originally a monastery, the crags of the Dobratsch are well seen above the low ridge, the last easternmost spur of the Carnic Alps, that divides the Gai- litz from the Gail. Standing here, the prior of ^Irnoldstein was an eye-witness of the terrific bergfall of 1348, described in the last Ete. Following the stream amid phasing scenery, the road mounta gently "WSW. from Arnoldstein to Tarvis (•2,453'), now connected by railway with Laybach. It is divided by the Gailitz into fwo villages. The larger (called Uuter Tarvis), on the S. side of the stream, has a dirty and com- I fortless inn. The road leading to the , valley of the Isonzo goes that way, while \ Ober Tarvis, with a good country inn ;(bei Gelbfuss) lies beside the Poniebba I road. If we look on the valley of the .Gailitz as a breach in the continuity of jthe main range of the Eastern Alps, and I consider the Julian Alps as a detached I group lying S. of that main range, it j will not be matter of surprise that Tar- I vis is connected by easy roads, involv- 1 ing no notable ascent, with the valley I of the Save as well as with the Taglia- mento. Besides these and the road from Villach, a fourth road runs south- ward to the Predil Pass, and so reaches i the valley of the Isonzo, which cuts so I deeply into the mass of the Julian Alps. These facts show the vast importance of Tarvis as a strategic position, and explain the obstinacy with which the approaches to it have been at various times defended. A merely trifling ascent of little more than 200 ft. leads eastward from Ober ; Tarvis to the watershed, 2.682 ft. above the sea, between the Gailitz and the Fella, by the village of Saifnitz. Hera the traveller may make an interesting excursion to one of the most celebrated mf -intain pilgi'image shrines of the Aus- trian dominions. From a distance hia attention has been directed to a church and a group of five or six large white houses, that crown a conical summit on the S. side of theCanalethal. This is the Luschari Berg, more commonly known as the Heilige Berg, 5,855 ft. in height. The church on the summit is visited annually by about 20,000 pilgrims ; but in 1860, the 500th anniversary of its foundation, the number rose to 102,000. There is a very rough inn at the top, .which can acciuimodate forty travel- 540 SOUTH-EASTERN ALPS. lers; and, except at times when it is overcrowded by pilgrims, the traveller may be tempted by the view at sun- rise from the summit. There are steep paths leading to the top from Kaltwas- ser, nearRaihl, and from Wolf^bach,m the Seisarathal, on the W. side of the summit; but the easiest way is from Saifnitz, or from a point on the road between that place and Tarvis, where the carved figure of an angel serves as a sign-post. A moderate walker will reach the summit from Saifnitz in 2^- hrs. Horses (charge 3 fl. each) are found at Saifnitz, and delicate persons may go in a trag-sessel or chaise- a- por- teur, with four bearers, at 2 fl. each. The descent may be accomplished in ^ hr. by a sledge, such as is commonly used for carrying down hay. The pace fast and the jolting severe; but the guides, who expect 1 fl each — a sledge serving for one person only — are skil- ful, and accidents are unknown. Ladies should be careful to tie up their dresses, so that there should be no risk of catching in any ob'ect on the way. The distant view from the Luschari Berg is limited by higher mountains, but extends westward to the Ant.-lao, and even to the Marmolata. Of the main group E. of the Isonzo the most cr^nspi- cuous is the Mangart (§ 63. Ute. i>). Merely the highest peak or the Tergiou is seen to the I. of tliat m'luntain. Far more striking, however, is the grand rock scenery near at hand. Between the Canal di Kaccolana (§ ()i. Rte. Fj on the S. and the road from Tarvis to Pontebba to the M. rise a group of limestone peaks which display to great perfection the characteristic scenery of this region. It is pierced by several minor valleys, but the readiest access to the base of the main pe:iks is by the glen of Seisara, which opens on the high road below the village of Wo/fs- hach. The stream which issues from it is the chief source of tiie Fella. It ap- pears that there is no dithculty in taking a liglit carriage as fai" as the upper end of this glen. For some 9 miles the course is due 8., but the uppermost end turns § 62. CARXIC ALPS. eastward and leads to a pass by which the traveller may reach the Lake of Kaihl. This lies between two of the highest mountains of the district — that to the rt., here known as the Ba- litza, and that to the 1. hand, called Wischberg by the German population on the X. side. It seems probable that the former is the summit, -which as seen from the S. side presents a com- manding peak of obelisk form, known in the Raccolana valley as Jof di Mon- tasio, or Muntasch, and probably not less than 9,000 ft. in height. W. of Saifnitz the high-road enters the defile of J a lava i, where stands the village of Malburyhetto (2,258'). A small fort guarding this pass into Carinthia was lield against the French in 1809, with the same heroic obsti- nacy, and the .'■aine ill-success, that marked the more famous defence of the Predil iort ; and a similar me- morial v.as here erected by the Em- peror Ferdinand. Descending almost imperceptibly, the western end of the so-called Canalethal is reached at the frontier between Carinthia and Venetia, where stand the twin villages of Pont- afel and Pontebba. I'ontafel is alto- gether a German village, with a good inn at the Post, with some slight admixture of "Wendish population, who call the place Mabtabl. The Pontebba torrent here descends from WNW. to join the Fella, and the wooden bridge that spans it divides two nations. Pow- tehha, on the W. side of the bridge, is exclusively Italian in character and lan- guage. Here the Fella turns abruptly to the S., and the valley of that stream [ is called Yal di Ferro as far as its junc- tion with the Tagliamento above Ven- zone. For a considerable distance the valley is enclosed between rocky heights I nearly bare of vegetation, but adorned j by many species interesting to the bo- I tanist. Through a short lateral glen, I called Canal di Dogyia, a view is gained I of the beautiful peak of the Jof di Mon- tasio. At Chiusa. ;i few miles lower down, the more considerable Canal di Raccolana (§ 63, Rte. F) opens east- ROUTE B. — UD I NE. 541 ward, parallel to the last, and a glimpsp is gained of its grand and wild scenery. Descending from that valley, the writer once unexpectedly found very comfort- able quarters in a large white house, without a sign, by the road-side at Chiusa. Below that place the Val di Ferro gradually bends to the rt., till the course of the stream is nearly due "\V. as it approaches Resiutta, at the opening of the pic- turesque Canal della Eesia. This is the ]M)-ir-station, and the first village on the road below Poutebba. Very fair quarters and good beer are foixnd in a large inn, which is also a brewery. Here the Fella, whose direction continues easterly for some distance, begins to assume the characteristic aspect of the rivers of Friuli, rolling through a wide channel, sometimes nearly 1 m. in breadth, paved vnXh. rounded blocks of white limestone, dazzling to the eye, and glowing in the blaze of a summer sun. Resuming its southward course, the torrent, about 8 m. from Eesiutta, joins the Tagliamento opposite Portis, and soon after reaches Vcnzone, a small town, in a rather picturesque position in the broad valley of the Tagliamento. About 3 m. farther is the village of Ospidahtto. Here the hills on either side of the valley begin to subside towards the plain of Friuli, A little beyond the village the road forks. One branch runs SSW. along the Tagliamento, passing Osopo and San Daniele, and carr\-ing the traveller to the rly. station of Codroipo. about 33 m. from Venzone. The road to Udine, which is nearer by fully 7 rn.) winds round the base of a hill that rises on the E. side of the valley. Here the traveller will do well to make a slight detour, in order to visit the interesting old town of Gemojia, which crowns the summit of the hill, a SW. spur from the neigh- bouring Monte Chiainpo (5,625'). A very curious church in Romanesque style, with a huge figure of St. Christopher on th.Q. fagade, is Avell worth a visit. The botanist will find here many very rare plants. Athamanta rupcstris is abundant on old walls ; while Alyssiim gemontnsc and Mcdicago Phvncs are seen on the stony slope by the side of the road to Udine. At the base of the hill this joins the high-road from Venzonf, and runs somewhat E. of S. across undu- lating country till it subsides into the plain near Udine. Professor Gr. A. Pirona has shown that the low hills that partly enclose the opening of the valley of the Tagliamento are the moraines of a great glacier that once descended through that valley from the range of the Carnic Alps. The writer, fully admitting that fact, is dis- posed to believe that, since the period of their abandonment by the retiring glacier, they have undergone marine action. The traveller viewing the plain of Friuli from a commanding height, or traversing its surface, cannot fail to be struck by the vast breadth of stony sur- face left uncovered by the streams that flow from the mountains to the sea. The bed of the Tagliamento is in many places more than 3 m. in width ; and less consideralile streams, suchias the Meduna, Zelline, and Toitc, often show nearly as wide a surface of shingle. It is (as the writer is convinced) an error to suppose that the water-worn rounded blocks, often of large size, covering this wide space are mainly brought down by the existing torrents. The entire plain of Friidi is formed of a similar deposit, overlaid by a stratum of sand and ve- getable earth, usually of* slight thick- ness. The torrents have done no more than peel off the thin coating that con- ceals the bed of shingle spread out over what was once the bottom of a shallow sea. Udine (Inns : Europa ; Croce di Malta ; Stella) is a city of the plain, one of the most interesting of the former depend- encies of the Venetian republic, and appropriately named the Venice of terra fcrma. It does not fall within the scope of this work to describe the objects of interest to which the traveller may well devote the greater part of a day. The chief sights are the Duomo, a fine Byzan- tine building, partly spoiled by modern restorations ; the Palazzo della Citta, 542 SOUTH-EASTERN ALPS. § C2. CARNIC ALPS. 1 thoroughly Venetian iu character ; the Campanile; the old walls; and the castle, built on a lofty green mound, erected, as tradition tells, by Attila, in order that he might view from it the burning of Aquileja. It commands a wide pro- spect over the plain, and the nearer ranges of the Friuli mountains. In the valleys and the rural districts of Friuli the people speak the Furlan dialect, very different from those of the other pro- vinces of Northern Italy, and imperfectly understood even by their Venetian neigh- bours. In Udine, and the chief places of the plain, the Venetian dialect, far nearer to the classical Italian, is gene- rally understood, and is spoken by many of the inhabitants. For the convenience of travellers, a short notice is here given of the rly. from Udine to Venice, a portion of the great line connecting Venice with Trieste and Vienna. For fully 30 m. from Udine the rly. runs at a dead level across the plain, without passing any place of interest to the stranger. The luxuriant vegetation of the mulberry and vine allows but occa- sional glimpses of the mountain ranges to the X. Between the stations of Co- droipo and Casarsa the rly. crosses the Tagliamento by a bridge and embank- ment 5- m. in length. Pordenone (Inn: Posta, well spoken of) is a thriving town. The painter, who took his name from this his native place, has left here nothing but a St. Christopher in the parish church. Pass- ing on the 1. hand the castle of Porcia, the rly. next reaches Sacile (good inn at the Post), a walled town, with an air of former importance. The Monte Cavallo (Rte. I), which is the highest mountain rising immediately above the plain of Venetia, is a fine ob- ject. The town stands on the Livenza, which, after being joined by the Zelline and the Meduna, falls into the Adriatic at Caorle. The next place of any im- portance is Concgliuno (noticed in § 61, Ete. A). Here the rly. turns nearly due S. Pass- ing below the hill on which stands the fine castle of San Salvatore, the Piave is crossed by a massive bridge, and the train hur^-ies across the plain country to Trcviso (Inns : AquiJa d' Oro, good ; Quattro Corone ; Stella ; and others), an ancient city, the Tarvisium of the Eo- mans, containing many fine paintings of the Venetian school, especially the ' En- I tombment of Christ,' by Griorgione, in I the Monte di Pieta, said to be the last I work of that great painter. The town ! is traversed by the Sde, femous for the ' purity of its water. A good road runs 1 from the city to Bassano, by Custel franco, \ about 32 m., and so to Trent by the ! Val Sugana; and another is carried to j Fettre, about 35 m. distant. Both these I roads cross the Via Fi'stumia, the an- cient Eoman way connecting Aqxiileja i with Verona and Milan. Following a I straight course across the plain, the rly. goes from Treviso to Mestre, the junction [ station for the Udine and Trieste line J with that leading from Milan l>y Verona I and Padua. Here travellers formerly took boat for Venice. Soon after clear- ing the station, where there is usually a delay of at least 15 min., salt-marsh plants in the ditches by the wayside show the traveller that he is approach- ing the lagoon. On the 1. hand he sees the low earthworks of the insignificant- j looking fort of MaJghcra, held for many I months in 18i9 by the Venetian volun- '■ teers against the whole force of the I Austrian besieging army. Here com- mences the causeway, nearly 3 m. in length, that now serves to link the city of the lagoons with terra fir ma. The station is reached, and the traveller enters Venice. He engages a gondola to reach his hotel, and if not much pressed for time, will desire the gondolier to follow the windings of the Grand Canal, instead of cutting across its loops by the shorter way, which they generally prefer. The hotels of Venice are very numerous. The first object with stran- gers is to be near the Piazza di San Marco, and all those here enumerated I comply with that condition. Scarcely , less important is it to be on the Grand ROUTE C. VALLEY OF THE TAGLIAMENTO. 548 Canal, vrhetber for sunshine in winter or sea-breeze in summer. All those mentioned below are on the Grand Canal when the position is not other- wise specified. In the first class are Europa, verj' good, excellent position ; Nuova Yorck, new and good ; Albergo Reale Danieli, on the Kiva dei Schia- voni, facing south, the most expensive, rooms handsome, cookery and attend- ance not first-rate ; Albergo Barbesi, accommodation scarcely corresponding to the price ; Albergo Vittoria, near the Opera House, excellent rooms, prices lower than those hitherto named, posi- tion not so good. In the second rank, but frequented by the better class of travellers, are the Citta di Monaco, good position, rooms rather small ; Pensions Svizzera, small rooms, well situated, landlord very obliging and attentive ; Luna, extremely convenient position, but little or no view, close to the Piazza. Among what may be called third-rate houses (none of them on the Grand Canal) the best are said to be Albergo Nazionale, near church of San Moise ; Albergo San Marco ; and Albergo Belle- vue, both looking on the Piazza di San Marco ; Vapore, near the Merceria ; Italia, npar San Moise ; and Leone d'Oro. From July till December the traveller should insist on having a mosquito-net to each Led. Route C. " texzoxe to pieve di cadoee. Although the drainage of the Carnic Alps is on one side curried southward through short valleys that run trans- versely to the general direction of that range, there is a manifest tendency to reproduce ridges parallel to the main range on the southern as well as on the northern side. We have seen in the last Ete. that the head of the valley of the Fella and the three tributary valleys which join it on the E. side are all parallel to the central range. The same direction is shown in the main valley of the Tagliamento. That river is formed by the union of three considerable Al- pine torrents of about equal vohime; but that which is considered the chief soiirce, and which retains the name Tagliamento, originates in the rai^ge bounding the upper Piave, a few miles from Pieve di Cadore, and flows thence nearly due E. to its junction with the Fella a little above Venzone. This long and deep valley divides the mountain ridges col- lectively styled by Sonklar the Premag- giore Group, from the main mass of the Carnic Alps. The road along the upper valley of the Tagliamento keeps to the X. side of the river, and in order to reach it from Yenzone it is necessary to follow the post-road towards Eesiutta (last Ete.) for fully four m., till a long embank- ment is reached that stretches across the shingly bed of the Fella, a little above the meeting of the two streams. In the fork between them rises the Monte Amariana (6,123'), commonly called Mte. Mariana. At its base is the vil- lage of Amaro, traversed by the read ; and about 5 m. farther, or 12 ni. from Yenzone, the traveller reaches Tulmczzo (1,070'), and finds tolerable accommo- dation in a large inn (Leone Hianco). A very slow diligence plifs daily between Tolmezzo and Udiue. It lukes fully 7 hrs. including a short halt at Gi-mona. It is known that the average rainfall 544 SOUTn-EASTEltN ALPS. § 62. CARXIC ALPS. of Upper Friuli is the greatest in Eu- rope, and observations made for ten Socchicue, five or six m. above Villa, th« Lumiei torrent descends from NW. to years at Tolmezzo give the greatest re- ■ join the Tagliamento, and the road here sulta yet obtained in the temperate Eone. In one year the rainfall amount- ed to 141 inches, or about six times the average of the E. of England, and the average for ten years T,vas 75 inches. As it happens that these exceptional con- ditions prevail in a district where the destruction of the forests has been car- ried farther than elsewhere in X. Italv, and where the rocks oiFer but slight re- sistance lo the action of violent currents, it is not surprising that there is no part of the Alps in which the geologist can study the erosive action of water on so great a scale as here, or where he should be more on his guard against hasty gene- ralipations from an exceptional state of facts. Each minor torrent pours down vast masses of debris torn from the flanks of the minor valleys and ravines, and it seems as if the slender portion of ' soil still available for cultivation could not very long resist the destructive powers of nature aided by man's impro- vidence. I Beyond Tolmezzo the road crosses the considerable torrent of the But, which, after issuing from Val di S. Pietro (Ete. E), receives a tributary from the Canal d' Incarojo, and descends to join the Tagliamento, The luxuriant vegeta- ' tion of such plots of ground as are ■ available for cultivation in the bottom of the valley forms a fine contrast with the bare grey ridges that enclose it. Villa (1,195'), sometimes called for dis- tinction Villa d' InviUino, is pictu- resquely situated, with a church on a liigh rock overlooking the valley. This place, where there is an inn (Leone), stands at the opening of the Canal di Gorto, through which the Degano, or N. branch of the Tagliamento, descends from the highest summits of the Carnic Alps. A new, but rough, road mounts through the main valley, which is hence- forward called Canal di Socclneve. On the S. side rises the Mvute Verzegnis abandons the latter and ascends along the tributary stream to Ampezzo (1,867'). the chief place in Canal di Socchieve, with an inn (Co- lomba). Tertiary deposits, apparently of miocene age, extend westward along the floor of the valley from the neigh- bourhood of Tolmezzo to Ampezzo. The road returns from Ampezzo to the main valley by the K. side of an isolatf'd mountain that rises in the fork between the Lumiei and the Tagliamento. Se- veral hamlets and small villages are passed, chief of which are Forni di Sotio (2,499') and Fonii di Sopra (3,264'). The head of the valley shows some fine scenery. On the S. side rises the Fre/naggiore (8,127'), and to the X. the Clapsavon (8,074'). The ascent from Forni di Sopra (Inn ; very fair) to the Maiiria Pass (4,191') is very gentle. It lies on the ENE. side of the Monte Cridola C 8,474'), also written Oridola, the highest summit of the so-called Premaggiore group. The new road de- scends rather rapidly from the summit to the bridge over the Piave below Lo- renzago (§ 61, Ete. D\ which is only 2,393 ft. above the sea, and then as- cends ju.st 500 ft, to join the high-road from Pieve di Cadore to Comelico at that village. The pedestrian going from Ampezzo to Auronzo may take a more direct, but rather more laborious way, by Sauris. There are two m-ountain villages of that name — Sauris di Sopra (4,443'), and Sauris di Sotto (3,957'), both inhabited by German colonists, who at some re- mote period settled in the upppr part of the valley of the Lnmifi. That torrent descends to Ampezzo through a gorge so narrow as to be completely impass- able, and a considerable detour is ne- cessary in order to reach its upper basin. The ordinary path is by a ridge some way SW. of the gorge. This is called Monte Fura (4,731'). From the summit (f),2S0'), and the ridge connecting iti the path descends to cross the Lumiei with iLe Premaggiore, At the village of , and then passes in succession through ROUTE 1). CANAL II GORTO. 545 these secluded German villages. An easy pass leads to Laggio, in the valley of the Piave, a short way below theTre Ponti, where the road turns off to Au- ronzo (see § 61, Rte. D). Mr. ^Tuckett has made a fine pass from Forni di Sopra to Yallesella and Pieve di Gadore. Ascending by a track tlirough Val Gliiaf, he reached the summit, on the S. side of Monte Cridola, in 3 hrs., descended in 2 hrs. to Valle- sella, and reached La Pieve in 1 hr. more. The ordinary course for travellers who wish to see something of the fine scenery of this district is to follow the Canal di Gorto to Forno Avoltri (next Rte.)> and then cross the pass leading to Sappada and Auronzo by the new road (§61, Rte. D). EOUTE D. VEXZONE TO THE GAILTHAT., BY THE CANAX DI GORTO. ASCENT OF THE PARAXBA. The highest part of the range of the Carnic Alps is that lying between the Paralba and the Kollinkofel. The first- named peak lies a little S. of the crest of the chain, and is the highest point of a mass that separates the head waters of the Piave from those of the Taglia- mento. Following the main range east- ward the chief summits are the Crcsta Verde and the Monte Volaya, or Wola- verspitz. The drainage of the E. side of the Paralba and that of both the other peaks flows southward to form the Degano, or northern branch of the Tagliamento, which flows through the Canal di Gorto, and joins the main branch of the same river close to Villa (see last Rte.). E. of the Monte Volaya is the great mass, until lately neglected by travellers, which is collectively known on the side of Friuli as Monte Coglians, and on the Cariiithian side as Kollinkofel. The highest sumniit of this mass, not yet determined by obser- vation, is the Kellerwand. On the S. side this is drained by a torrent M-hich joins the Degano about halfway between Rigolato and Forno Avoltri. It will be inferred that several of the most inte- resting expeditions for a mountaineer in this district may be best undertaken from the upper end of the Canal di Gorto ; and if the accommodation at Forno Avoltri were more inviting, it would probably become a frequent re- sort of travellers. The road from Ven- zone to Villa (17 or 18 m. distant) is described in the last Rte. Above that village the road is rough, and in plac. s iteep; but the writer is int'(.rmed tliat it has been slightly improved of late years, t^everal small villages are scattered through the valley, some by the road- side, others perched on the rocky emi- nences on either side. The chief places are Ovaro (1,685'), and Comeglians {'\J1b'),ho^\\ with small and poor inns. Rigolato (2,437')» which is laid down on maps with conspicuous letters, is a small and poor place, with an inn kept by Luigi Zanier, in a picturesque part of the valley, where the lower slopes are well clothed with beech forest. The village stands more than 100 ft. above the bed of the Degano, which is crossed in ascending to the head of the valley. The coirrse, which has lain but little W. of due N. since Villa, now bend to WNW. Before long the little lateral glen, further mentioned below, that runs up to the Wolaver Joch and the 8. base of the Kellerwand, is passed on the rt. Turning eastward from that glen a path leads to Timau (Rte. E),. . through one of the depressions parallel to the main chain, characteristic of th(» orography of this district. It lies between the range of the Monte CogJianc on the N. side, and that of Monti Crostis (7,384'). In ascending the mair valley from Rigolato the traveller passes round the E. and N. sides of a higl summit called Mo7ite Tuglia, which ,is conspicuous in all the views in this neighbourhood. Although the distance seems slight on the map, nearly 2i hrs. 546 SOUTH-EASTERN ALPS. § 62. CARNIC ALPS. are required for tlie ascent from Eigo- lato to Forno Avoltri (2,882'), the highest \-illage in the Canal di Gorto. It has become a Lusy place since a Venetian company have carried on active mining operations in the neighbouring glen of the Avanza. The lead ore, rich in silver, is chiefly extracted from shafts lying j high up on the mountain above the Avanza torrent. The opening of the highest shaft is 6,2.5-i ft. above the sea. The inn (Cavallo Bianco?), formerly very rough, is said to be improved. The scenery of the upper end of the valley above Forno A-voltri is extremely fine. The Paralba to NW., and the Monte Volaya to NE., are the dominant peaks, for (unless the writer be much mistaken) the Monte Coglians is not visible from the neighbourhood of the village. Starting from Forno Avollri the traveller has a choice among at lS', crustata, Valeriana supiiia, Lcontodon Taraxaci, Androsace Hausmanniana, Primula longijiora, Salix Jacquiniana, and Fes- tura pumila. [The traveller, not intending to cross the range into the Gailthal, may, with a good guide, make an interesting tour on his way back to Lienz, by crossing the Laserzthcirl, and going thence by the Lavanteralp to the Baumgarten (or Pangarten) Alp, By a detour of about 2h hrs., he may then ascend the Hochstadl (8,774'), easy of access, and command- ing an admirable view. Descending thence to the Pircheralp, he follows a beaten track to Pirchach in the Drau- thal, opposite JSorsach (§51, Route A), the last Tyrolese village on the high- road below Lienz, He may there halt at a good country inn, or procure a vehicle to return to Lienz.] The way from the Kerchbaumeraip to the Gailthal is by the Zochen Pass (7,394'). The ascent is easy, but the descent on the S. side, through one of the many grahen that furrow the slopes towards the Lessachthal, is steep and rather rough. The botanist who may reach the Birnbachliicke (mentioned above), and intends to descend on the S. side, may accomplish that operation without returning to the Kerschbaumer- alp, But the way is very steep, and it would not be advisable to go alone, over ground where the rope may be of essential service. He will join the path from the Zochen in the Graben above- mentioned, which opens into the Gail- thal close to Lorenzen. If bound for Maria Lukau (Rte, A), he will take an upper path round the brow of the hill, and thus save a considerable detour. A much easier and shorter, but less interesting, way from Lienz to Maria Lukau, is by the Leisacheralp. This is reached by following the high-road from Lienz up the valley of the Drave for fully 5 m. to the Luckauer-Briicke, An ascent of 2^ hrs. leads to the Leisacher- alp. This is divided from a glen open- ing into the Lessachthal a short way above Maria Lukau by a low pass, 5,631 ft. in height, for which no name seems to be established in the neigh- bourhood. A still easier way from the Drave to the Gail, liy the E. end of the Kreuz- kofel group, passes by Pirchach, and the Pircheralp (see above >, to the Pirchcr- Schartl (5,06o'), a pass leading to Kor- nath (3,412'), about 2^ hrs. above Kot- schach on the way from Maria Lukau. ROUTE G, — THE WEISSEXSEE. 553 This way is tedious, and much less interesting than any of the other ex- oursions here indicated. EoiJTE Gr. , MOUXTAIX ROADS BETSNTEEX VIIXACH AND GREIFEXBUEG. : The eastern part of the range of the Gailthal Alps is remarkable for the arrangement of the surface in ridges and troughs nearly parallel to the ad- joining main Talleys of the Drave and the Grail. Although the space between those rivers is narrow, a traveller going in a direct line from one river to the other must, in many places, traverse four mountain ranges, and cross three valleys that lie between them. From this peculiarity in the structure of the country, it follows that many easy roads and paths traverse the district in a direction parallel to the adjoining val- leys ; and a traveller from Yillach, as- cending the valley of the Drave, has a choice between several ways by which he may vary his route without any con- siderable detour. 1. By the IVeissensee. The long val- ley, partly filled by the Weissensee, nearly coincides with the limit between the triassic rocks, which constitute the greater part of the Gailthal range, and the crystalline rocks of the High Tauern. It v\-ould appear as if this were, so to say, the natural course of the Drave valley, lying nearly in a straight line between Grreifenburg and Paternion, while the river makes the considerable detour by Sachsenburg described in § 51, Ete. A. Although the mountain mass included in the triangle between the Drave and the Weissenseerthal is mainly formed of crystalline rock, this is, on the S. side, overlaid by triassic limestone, which forms the summit of the Staffberg (7,275'), the highest point of the group. The road to the Weissensee quits the valley of the Drave at Nickelsdorf, about f m. below Pater7iion (§ 51, Ete. A). The entrance of the glen being a narrow defile, the road mounts over the shoulder of the hill, and some way further de- scends to the level of the stream. The scenery is throughout pleasing. In about 7 ra. from Paternion, the tra- veller reaches the mining village of Stockenboi, with iron-works. Some gold has been extracted here by wash- ing, and small quantities of cinnabar have also been found. From the name of the village, the lower part of the valley is sometimes called Stockenboi- erthal ; but the writer follows the ex- ample of Schaubach in preserving the name Weissenseerthal, for the entire. ! About 4 m. beyond Stockenboi is Weis- i scjibach, a small place, whence a road I mounts SSW. to Tscherniheim. It is an easy walk over a low pass from that place to Hermagor. About 2 m. E. of "Weissenbach, the traveller, following the main branch of the valley, reaches the E. end of the Weissensee, 2,936 ft. above the sea. Another measurement gives 3,084 ft. AYithout presenting grand features, this long and narrow lake is very pleasing from the air of repose that is spread around its quiet shores. Yet these were, from a very remote period, the scene of human activity ; and numerous pfahlbax'ten, the remains of ancient lake dwellings, have been found near the E. end of the lake. At that end lives a fisherman, whose boat is gene- rally available for conveying strangers f)54 SOUTH-EASTERN ALPS. § 62. CARNIC ALPS. to the farther end (counted 9 m. distant) ■and is the more desirable as the car- riage-road stops at Weissenbach. The chief place on the lako is Gatschach, near the W. end, accessible bj road, but whether a vehicle be forthcoming is always doubtful in such out-of-the-way places. Kear Gatschach the lake is so contracted in width that it is crossed by H long wooden bridge. If no vehicle be found at Gatschach, the traveller may go by boat to the extreme "W. end of the lake, whence it is only about 5 m. to Greifenburg on the Drave. The road mounts but little to the low pass that divides the lake from a slender stream that descends to JVeissach, on the rt. bank of the Drave, whence a bridge carries it to join the high-road at Greifenburg. Instead of following the road by Stockenboi, the pedestrian may leave the high-road along the Drave at Jopp- litsch, about 6j m. above Yillach, and thence follow a track nearly parallel to the adjacent Bleibergthal (Ete. A), which leads to Eubland, and thence to Kreuzen, a mining village on a road that goes SSW. from Nickelsdorf to Gortschach in the Gailthal. From Kreuzen a track goes due "W. through a depression in the hills, and joins the road to Tschemiheim, about 2 m. S. of then by a merely trifling ascent reaches the second pass mentioned above, that leads to Weissach and Greifenburg. Weij ich. 2. Z?y Bleiherg, Hermagor, and the Gitschthal. — By this agreeable and perfectly easy way, travellers may go from Yillach to Greifenburg by a road scarcely longer than the post-road along the Drauthal. The way from Villach to Hermagor by Bleiberg is described in Ete. A. From Hermagor a good road mounts WNW. through the Gitsch- thal, a richly wooded popidous valley. At Weissbriach, which has two country iucs, and a third, rather better, by the roadside, about \ m. out of the village, the road quits the head of the Gitsch- thal, and crosses a low pass, on which lie many erratic blocks of crystalline rock, that divides the Gitschthal from the head of the Weissensee. The road passes a short way W. of the lake, and EOUTE H. PONTEBBA TO HER3IAG0E,BY TEOPPELACH. Although a short and unimportant pass, it seems worth while to distinguish under a separate heading the path con- necting Pontebba with the Gailthal. It may not occur to a traveller intending to visit the Gailthal, that by an easy walk of five or six hours he may reach a point more than fifty miles distant by road. For the reasons mentioned below, the way has special interest for the geologist and the botanist. The ascent commences close to Pontebba, through a ravine called Bombasch Graben, in which the geologist may identify aU the chief subdivisions of the so-called Gail- thal system well characterised by fos- sils. In the lower part of the Grahen the torrent has cut its channel through a vast mass of detritus, containing huge blocks irregularly scattered through it, apparently the remains of a great berg- faU. During and after heav\' rain these blocks are loosened in such numbers, that the ascent through the ravine be- comes actually dangerous ; and it is asserted at Pontebba that more than 100 persons have here lost their lives from this cause. Having attained the ROUTE I. — LO^'GARONE TO SACILE. 555 level of the glen above the ravine, the way is thenceforward easy ; but as there are many tracks, and no very obvious landmarks, it is best to have a local guide. The summit of the pass is reached on the verge of a wide level space, where there is a good spring, rare in these parts. The plain which forms the summit level (about 5,000') IS here called Nosfeld (a corrupt form of Nassfeld). Above it, on the E. side, rises a rocky mountain, partly covered with forest, called AuernicJc-Kogel, a part of the mass whose highest point is the Grartner-Kogel (Ete.A). The sum- mit commands a fine view southward and eastward, in which the noble peak of the Jof di Montasio is the most con- spicuous object. On the S. slope of the Auernick-Kugel, in a partial clearing of the forest, about -100 ft. above the spring already mentioned, Wulfenia ca- rmthiaca was found by the late King of Saxony, being the third known habitat (all in the same neighbourhood) of that singular plant. On the farther side of the Xosfeld, the descent commences to- wards the Gailthal. The stony path lies through an extensive forest belong- ing to Prince Porcia, partly cleared. A timber-slide has been erected to convey the trunks of noble trees down to the main valley. On approaching the lower verge of the forest some time is saved by ascending a little over a shoulder of the hill, and then descending in a nearly direct line on the village of Stelnitza (called on maps Schlanitzen). A rough cart-track leads thence to Trbpjielach, on the main road between Kdtschach and Hermagor. Both the villages above named are inhabited by Slovenes, who understand but little of any other than their native "Wendish dialect. A country cart with seats is generally to be found at Troppelach, to carry the traveller to Hermagor (about 7 ni. ), if that be his direction, or else to Kotschach. EOUTE I. LONGAEOXE TO SACILE, It will not escape the notice of the reader that in the foregoing Ktes. nothing has been said of the considerable moun- tain district lying between the Piave and the Tagliaraento, and S. of the Canal di Soechieve (Rte. C). The mountains of this extensive tract are colleetively known as the Premaggiore group. The northern portion, including the highest peaks, is formed of Dachstein limestone, but farther S. Jurassic limestone and cretaceous rocks predominate ; the latter rising in the Monte Cavallo to a height of 7,377 ft. No part of the Alps has been so neglected by travellers and naturalists as this ; and excepting the measurement of a few points by Herr Trinker, who has done so much for the hypsometry of the Venetian Alps, the writer is not aware of any published information re- specting the district in question. The Monte Cavallo has been occasionally visited by botanists ; but as to the in- terior valleys, the only available infor- mation is derived from a hurried ex- cursion made by the vrriter in 1860, in company with Mr. J. Birkbeck. From the Mauria Pass, N. of Monte Cridola (Rte. C), to Polcenigo, at the S. base of Monte Cavallo, the range divid- ing the waters of the Piave from those of the Zelline — which is the river drain- ing the greater part of this district — suffers but one considerable break. This occurs at Longarone(§ 61,Rte.A), where a deep gap in the mountains confining 556 SOUTH-EASTERN ALPS. § G2. CARXIC ALPS. the valley of the Piave on the E. side is seen exactly opposite the opening of Valdi Zoldo. From this gap the slen- der Fojont torrent descends through an impassable cleft. The bridle-track lead- ing to Fritdi ascends from the bridge overthe Piave (1,435'), below Longarone, in one long zigzag, which carries the traveller to the level of the deep trough here cut between the mountains on either side. Several poverty-stricken hamlets are passed by the way, and the track passes over many inequalities of 1 the ground. Spircea decunibens is abun- ! dant here and throughout the valley of j the Zelline, and Bidens tripartita, which j is naturalised in many of the Venetian \ valleys, is a pest in the meagre corn- | fields. The chief place passed on the ! way is Erto (2,589'), -with a wretched i inn. The summit-level is reached a ; little way farther at the ruined chapel of S. Osvaldo (2,775'). Amid very pleasing scenery the track descends gently to Cimolais (2,176'), the highest village in the main northern branch of Yal Zelline, nearly four hours' moderate walking from Longarone. By a strange perversion the torrent of this branch of the valley, which partly drains the high- est mountains of this district, is called Cirnolina, and the name Zelline is pre- served by a much shorter eastern tri- butary, which passes by the village of C/(r«/Z', and joins the Cimolina nearly 3 m. below Cimolais. The latter is a very singular place, -with an air of seclusion and strangeness that is scarcely to be equalled elsewhere. Each house stands apart, with a walled garden and court- yard, and a large gateway affording the only access to the premises. The -win- dows are provided with strong iron gratings, and the whole speaks of some past period of general mistrust and in- security. Not less singular is the aspect of the vegetation. A wide extent of plain, the filled-up bed of an ancient lake, extending S. of the village, is covered with stunted sub-alpine vege- tition. Almost the only tree is the krummhoh, or Pinus mughus ; and a botanist descending into the vail ev would suppose himself to be at a height of at least 5,000 ft. above the sea. There is a rough but seemingly toler- able inn near the church at Cimolais ; but the traveller wishing to explore the head of the valley, and to ascend the Mo7ite Premaggiore (8,127'j, will do bet- ter to seek shelter for the night at the casera of Mduzzo (3,944'), fully 2 hrs. higher up the valley. A path crosses the ridge thence in aXW. direction, and leads to the valley of the Piave some way above Pi eve di Cadore. The track leading southward through Val Zelline crosses the plain below Ci- molais, and passes to the rt. bank of the Cimolina before its junction with the Zelline. Here the valley is contracted, and on slopes of debris rt. of the track the botanist will observe the very rare Asplenium fissum. For a long distance the valley is quite uninhabited, and only one small cluster of houses, with a chapel, was seen on the way to Barcis. 'The walk cannot fail to interest the botanist. Late in autumn, when many plants have utterly disappeared, the following, among others, were noticed by the way : Thalictrum simplex, Saxifraga elatior, Laserpitium 'prutheniciim. Inula squar- rosa, Carapamda Alpini, and Allium suaveolens. The scenery is throughout pleasing, the path good (a guide being quite imnecessary), and in about 3| hrs. moderate walking the traveller reaches Barcis (l.dSV), where the writer found at the inn kept by Antonio Cilli very fair quarters for so remote a place. Here the Zelline turns eastward, and by a sinuous course through the hills escapes into the plain of Friuli about 6 m. below Barcis. From the point where the river leaves the mountains, a road runsSSW. to Aviano, a small town about equidistant from Pordenone and Saeile. If bound for the valley of the Tagliamento, the traveller should go to Maniago (665'), a town about 3 m. E, of the Zelline, producing a considerable amount of rough but strong cutlery, which is carried by hawkers throughout Italy and Switzerland. A road runs eastward from thence to the Taglia- - SS ;l&llU^-4~^,^ -i«-. »: «^-5<» c ^. -N [1* r "^ 1^ ^ t^ -1; .y^ 7 :C ^-~Ng> * - / -. '/ «^k^ § Go. TERGLOU DISTRICT. 557 mento, skirting the southern base of the mountains. A much more interesting way from Barcis mounts nearly due S. to a plateau on the E. side of the Mo7ite Cavallo (7,377')> t^^e summit of which may be reached in about 5 hrs. steady going from Barcis. The view must be very remarkable, commanding the entire northern coast of the Adriatic. Being alone, and clouds coming on when he had reached about 6,000 ft., the writer did not persevere in attempting to reach the summit. Bears are not uncommon here, and chamois are said to. be un- usually abundant, doubtless owing to the fact that for 17 years the disarma- ment of the country people was rigor- ously enforced by the Austrian au- thorities. A track across a bare stony plateau, descending by a very rough way through a gorge to a pretty green valley, leads from the base of Monte Cavallo to Polcenigo, a village with a large palazzo belonging to the Count of the same name. Though 40 m. distant, it is scarcely 130 ft. above the sea-level. The road to Sacile (7 m. dis- tant) passes over rising ground that commands a fine view of the bold range of Monte CaA-allo. At the Post at Sacile (Rte. B), the traveller finds good quar- ters, and here joins the railway between Venice and Trieste, SECTION 63. TERGLOU DISTRICT. The group of high peaks l^ang between the Salza and the Enns, and culminating in the Dachstein, has been described in § 46. The attractions of the district of which Ischl is the mountain capital are I now well known to many travellers, but comparatively few are aware that ex- actly opposite to the Dachstein group, on the S. side of the broad zone of the Styrian Alps, is a more extensive group of mountains, repeating in almost every detail the characteristic features of the Salzkammergut country. This is the mass which has retained in modern geo- graphy the name Julian Alps, by which it was known to antiquity. In two re- spects this district is sxirpassed by its northern rival. The lakes are less numerous and less beautiful, and the mountains do not attain heights quite equal to those of the central group of the Dachstein Alps. But, on the other hand, we find in the Julian Alps greater variety, and the subtle charm of the South is flung over the valleys that descend towards the not distant Adriatic, and enhances the contrast with the sternness of the scenery in the central parts of the group. Some travellers will find additional interest in this district, owing to the opportunity here afibrded for making acquaintance with a Slavonic popula- tion. By far the largest portion is inhabited by people of that race, be- longing to two, if not three, of its numerous subdivisions, but most of the younger people can speak German, ex- cept in the valley of the Isonzo and the neighbourhood of Gorizia, where the population is partly Italian. In the towns near the sea-coast the Italian element prevails, but, except on the rt. bank of the Isonzo, the rural popula- tion is almost exclusively Slavonic. The common idea as to the infwiority of that race is certainly not borile out by such indications as a stranger is 558 SOUTH EASTERN ALPS. § 63. TERGLOU DISTRICT. able to perceive in this region. Speak- ing generally, the people are physically vigorous and well-formed, the houses are on the whole cleaner and neater than in Friuli, or in many of the Styrian valleys, and the level of intel- ligence seems to be quite up to the general standard. The traveller will be struck by many tokens showing that the period of French rule at the begin- ning of this century hias left a deep im- press on the popular mind. Instead of the deep feeling of hatred, but partially softened by the lapse of more than half a century, that makes the South-Ger- mans think and speak of the French invaders as their ancestors did of the hordes of Attila, it would seem that the Slavonic people found something con- genial in the Grallic temperament, while the excitable imagination of that race was dazzled by the military achieve- ments of their new rulers. The mountains of this district do not lie in definite ridges, although if we look at the mass which includes all the higher summits, it evidently has oro- graphic rflationship to the adjoining range of the Carnic Alps, described in the last section. Speaking collectively, the Julian Alps may be said to form two lofty islands, divided by a narrow strait which extends northward from the head of the Isonzo valley by Raibl t-) Tarvis. Paleeozoic rocks, probably identical with those of the Carnic chain, are here raised to a lower level, and are sur- mounted by vast masses of trias, of which the largest part is dolomitic limestone. This is, in its turn, overlaid by the newer formation, less completely dolo- mitic in character, which Austrian geo- logists call Dachstein limestone. The structure of the country is gene- rally similar to that of the Dachstein group, but a comparatively trifling geo- logical difference produces a result very important to the inhabitants, and to the mountain traveller. In the order of the strata occurring in both districts there are certain beds of red slate, im- pervious to water, that arrest the pas- sage of the streams that percolate through the interior of the limestone mountains. These beds usually lie somewhere near the level of the moun- tain glens in the Dachstein district, and, in consequence, these are usually watered by copious streams. In the Julian Alps they lie deeper, usually covered by a great thickness of limestone. Hence, nothing arrests the flow of the internal canals, by which the whole surface water is at once carried ofif. and it is only in the deeper main valleys that water flows in a constant channel. Occasionally a stream comes to the surface, flows for a certain distance, and then disappears, repeating this process many times in the course of 10 or 12 m. But, as a general rule, the mountains of this group are the most arid in the Alps. Unaided by some native herdsman or hunter who can lead him to the rare spots where a few drops of water trickle from the rock, the stranger may wander over these mountains from early morn- ing till nightfall without finding where- with to quench his thirst, unless he reach the upper snow beds ; and, even then, may have some trouble before he can achieve his object. As already mentioned, the mass of the Julian Alps is cut into two unequal parts by the Isonzo. The smaller por- tion, W. of that river, shows two con- spicuous mountains. The Monte Canin (8,711'?) is a huge mass, sustaining an extensive plateau, from which arise several slightly prominent peaks. In contrast to this, the Jof di Montasio (8,733'?), or Muntatsch, shows a beauti- fully sharp pinnacle of most striking form, which arrests the attention of every mountaineer, but has not (appar- ently) yet been ascended. In the much larger and more compact eastern divi- sion of the group the highest peaks — Terglou (9,371'), Prisiuig (about 8,400'), and Mangart (8,776') — lie in a range extending from E. to W. parallel to the Save. Another parallel range extends eastward from Mte. Krn (7,366') to near Kraiuburg on the Save ; and these raiif^es are connected by a transverse ridge extending from the Terglou tc ROUTE A. — PREDIL PASS. 559 Monte Krn, and dividing the head of the Wocheiner Save from the Woeheiner See, the general form of the whole being nearly represented by a Z In a popular work, which is in the hands of most English travellers, the readers are wai-ned against ' the dirty habits, suspicious and disagreeable man- ners, and Slavonic language of the people of this district.' It is said, that 'the inns are generally comfortless, and the people disobliging ; ' and complaint is made of the ordinary use of iron bars in the windows on the ground floor. The writer has made four pedestrian excursions in Carniola, including dis- tricts remote from the valley of the Save, and can only say that he would consider himself unusually fortunate if he were to find in remote villages in England or France such clean and com- fortable rooms, such good f(jod, and as much attention, as he has almost uni- versally met here. The people are guilty of using a Slavonic idiom in their ordinary intercourse ; but it is very rare to find an inn where there is not at least one person speaking Grerman or Italian. They have also preserved the custom of fixing iron bars to their lower windows, universal throughout nearly the whole of the south and east of Europe ; but the writer has not found this to be a cause of acute personal dis- comfort. In the same work it is said that the country is generally unpictu- resque, with the rather considerable exceptions of the valley of the Save, with its tributary glens, the Kara- wankas, and ' the Caldron of the Steiner Alp ' — which latter happens to be in Styria. The lower country, SW. of the Save, is too hot for pedestrian excur- sions late in the season ; but the travel- ler who, in spring and early summer, may visit the hilly region of which Idria is the centre, and which is de- scribed in Ete. Gr, will find scope for many interesting walks. In Carniola the best stopping-places for a ti-aveller visiting the Julian Alps are found at Veldes, Wurzen, Lengenfeld, and Kro- nau. In the neighbourhood of the Birnbaumerwald, good quarters are j found at Loitseh, Pfawald, St. Veit, I and other villages. Adelsberg, whose cavern is noticed in § 64, has a very I good inn. In the valley of the Isonzo, which, politically, forms part of the province of Kustenland, or Littorale, the best head-quarters are at Flitsch and Gorizia, but very tolerable accommoda- tion is available in many of the inter- mediate villages. RorxE A. TILLACH TO TRIESTE, BY THE PEEDIL PASS. Tarvis (by road) Plitsch Caporetto Canale Gorizia Moiifalcone (by rail Nabresina Trieste 24 J 114i No post-horses beyond Tarvia. The valley of the Isonzo, which pene- trates so deeply into the mass of the Julian Alps that its northern branch is separated from the stream that descends from Raibl towards the Drave merely by the low pass of Predil, will probably, before long, be traversed by a railway which will connect Villach with the Austrian English miles miles 4 19 n 16i 2| Hi 4 19 3 14 ) 3 14 2 H . H m 560 SOUTH EASTERN ALPS. § 63. TERGLOU DISTRICT. (rorizia station on the line between Venice and Trieste. In this way the only important sea-port of Austria will be oonnected with the Rudolfsbahn railway by a course much shorter than that by Marburg and Laybach ; and a gtill more important saving of time and distance will, on the completion of the line between Brixen and Villach, be gained for the traffic between Trieste and the centre of G-ermany. Although the Predil Pass, as well as the valleys on either side, and especially that leading to the Isonzo, are relatively j low, it appears that a considerable I tunnel will be necessary, the expense { of which, however, will be justified by the importance of the interests at stake. The road is interesting to the tourist for the sake of the wild and grand rock scenery about the head of the valley of the Isop.zo ; and there are few in the Alps that offer greater attractions to the naturalist and the geologist. The way from Villach to Tarvis is described in § 62, Rte. TB. At the latter place the road to the Predil crosses the Gailitz just above its junction with the Schlitza torrent descending from Eaibl. Ascending a little W. of duo S. through the narrow Raiblerthal, the traveller is struck by the presence of huge porphyry blocks on the steep slopes of limestone. Straight ahead rises, very boldly, a fine dolomite peak called Konigsherg (6,272'). An improbable tradition traces the name of the mountain to a supposed ascent by Alboin, the Longobard chief, who led his army this way into Italy. The mountain stands in the fork between the main branch of the Raiblerthal and a tributary' glen called KaVioasserthaL This originates at the base of the Wisch- berg (8,7.33'). Whether this be the same as the Jof di Monlasio (§ 61, Rte. B). [ or (as the writer believes; a secondars j summit of the same group, it appears I that the best chance of attaining that noble peak is through the Kaltwasser- thal. The blocks mentioned above originate in a mass of porphyry, pro- truded through the triassic strata which { extends from the neighbourhood of the Luschariberg to the E. side of the Schlitza, above its junction with the Kaltwasserbach. About 2 m. higher up is Raibl, a small place, about 2,700 ft. (?) above the sea, with a fair country inn. The considerable mines of lead and zinc, which give Raibl some locjJ. importance, immediately underlie some deposits referred to the upper trias.here so fully developed, and so well charac- terised by fossil fish, Crustacea, and shells, that they are now generally known as the Raibl Beds. They may be traced westward over the ridge S. of the Konigsberg that divides Raibl from the head of the Kaltwasserthal, and underlie the Dachstein limestone in the mass of the Wischberg. Above Raibl the valley ascends gently to the low ridge dividing this from the beau- tiful Raccolana valley, noticed in Rte. F, and about 1^ m. above the village, the Schlitza forms a pretty little lake, called Raihlersee. Among the plants of the valley the botanist will observe Penccdanum rablense, Campanula car- nica, and Salix Wulfeniana. In the ascent to the Predil, Silene alpestris and Sedu?7i hispanicum, two characteristic plants of this region, are very abundant. The road mounts diagonally along the slope above the Raiblersee, and then turns due E. to gain the summit of the Predil Pass (3,822'). The descent does not commence immediately, and the road keeps for a short distance in an easterly direction approaching the great rock mass of the Mangart. At the verge of the descent into the very deep gorge that opens unexpectedly beneath the traveller's feet stands a small fort, designed to command the pass, with a well-executed bas-relief, and an inscription commemoniting 'the heroic death of Captain Johann Her- mann and his comrades,' who fell in 1809 in the defence of a hastily con- structed wooden blockhouse that stood much lower down in the defile of Preth. Charged with the duty of protecting the rear of the retreating Austrian army, this brave officer with about 300 ROUTE A. VILLACir TO TRIESTE. 561 men, arrested for several days the pas- sage of a French corps of 6,000 men ; and when the blockhouse was at length set on fire by blazing pitch-wreaths flung from the rocks above, the leader and the garrison fell in a final desperate sally, leaving but five men alive in the hands of the enemy. A short way beyond the fort is the little hamlet of Obcr-Preth, standing on the very brink of the dark defile of the Coritenza. This torrent, which is the northernmost branch of the Isonzo, issues from the base of the Mangart, and descends, first SW., then due S., to join the main stream in the basin of Flitsch. In many zigzags, which may be cut off by a footpath, tlie road descends more than 1,000 ft. from the upper hamlet to that of Unfer-Prcth. During this descent the most striking objects are the gi-and rocks of the Sclmik. This is a ridge extending SW. from the Mangart, and almost overhanging the defile, above which its crags rise to a height of nearly 6,000 ft. [It would be a mistake to attempt the ascent of the Mangart from Eaibl, as suggested by Gilbert and Churchill. The proper starting-point is Unter-Preth. Ascending thence to the ridge between the Travnik and Mangart, by the course followed in going from Flitsch to Eat- schach, the line thence to the summit is described in Kte. D. At the S. end of the defile are a few poor houses at a spot called Flitschcr Klause (2,147')- Even after issuing from the stony savageness of the gorge of the Coritenza into the more open tract that extends hence to Flitsch, the general character of the scenery remains intensely stern. On the rt., near at hand, rises the rugged Bomhon (7,239'), which is an EXE. promontory from the mass of the Monte Canin. 'J he latter great moun- tain, which on every other side shows formidably steep precipices, here pre- sents a somewhat uniform declivity, above which some of the rugged pin- nacles and the snow-slopes of the upper plateau are but partially seen. The basin of Flitsch, or Flitscherboden, en- s. c. J. o closed by bare rocks or slopes of debris, shows a considerable breadth of meagre gravelly soil. At some past period it has been filled to a considerable depth with, gravel and detritus, arranged in imper- fectly stratified beds, and these have been deeply excavated by the existing tor- rents. On the NW. side of this basin, about 1,900 ft. (?) above the sea, stands Flitsch (called by the Italian people of the valley Pless, and by the Slavonic population Banc'). There is a very fair inn at the Post, in the centre of the little town, of which the writer has no complaint to make ; but he gives a de- j cided preference to the inn (formerly i Leschnegg's), just outside the to^\-n as I the road leaves it to descend the valley. I The accommodation is limited, but there ' are a few well-fiu'nisbed rooms, and he I has there found good food, much atten- , tion, and moderate charges. Of late ' years it has been often occupied by j railway-engineers, and travellers have j had to resort to the Post. j The most interesting excursion from ■ Flitsch is undoubtedly the ascent of the Prestrelenik, which may be taken in connection with the pass to Canal di Eac- colana (Ete. F). Another excursion of a singularly wild character is that lead- ing to Kronau on the Save, by the head valley of the Isonzo (Ete. E). The bo- tanist who contents himself with the ! lower slopes close to the village, and I the floor of the main valley, will find several rare plants, among which Cala- mintha thym\foUa, Centcmrea riqyestris, and Cieraniu/n onacrorhizon, deserve to be specified. The road follows a "W'SW. direction for nearly o m. below Flitsch as far as Saaga (pronounced Soga). atthejunction of a torrent called Eio Bianco. Hence run several paths leading to the Taglia- mento (Ete. F). Here the valley of the Isonzo bends abruptly at a very sharp angle, turning from AVSW. to ESE. Tlie character of the scenery becomes less stern, and the vegetation assumes a richer and more southern aspect as the traveller reaches Caporetto (Germ. Kajyfreid), a small o 562 SOUTH-EASTERN ALPS. § G3. TERGLOU DISTRICT. village, -with a tolerable country inn, at the opening of a Tvide gap in the moun- tains througli which runs the road to Udine, described in the next Kte. E. of Caporetto rises a considerable mass of mountain, collectively called Km (the pronunciation is to be learned by ear). Similar in general character to the IMonte Canin, this is lower by fullv 1.400 ft. The highest point attains 7,358 ft. The Monte Va- gatin reaehes 6,565 ft. and Monte Kuk 6.829 ft. Many of the rare plants of 3ronte Canin (Ete. F) are found on the EJm. and the ascent is less laborious, but certainly less interesting. Between Caporetto and Canale the Isonzo turns asrain at a sharp angle from SE. to SAVf The village of Tid- mino (Germ. ToJmein), with a ruined castle said to have been inhabited by Dante when the guest of Pagano della Torre, Patriarch of Aquileja, stands on the 1. bank near the angle ; but the post-road avoids it by crossing a depres- sion in the hills above the rt. bank, and so cutting off the corner. In the early summer the botanist will find many very interesting plants by the road-side in this i)art of the valley : amongst others may be mentioned Mcdiccgo Pi- Tonce, Saxifraga ■pctraa, Campanula carnica, and Piptatherum paradoxum. The junction of the Idria (Rte. G) with the Isonzo is a few miles below Tul- mino. out of sight of the road. Canale (379') stands on the 1. bank of the Isonzo, which is here for the first time crossed by the post-road. It lias a large inn that does not seem attractive. Henceforward the road keeps to the 1. bank, and the mountains subside rapidly towards the opening of the valley. This bends twice at rt. angles, first to SE.. and then back to SAV., before reaching the charming little citv of Gori-ia (Germ. Gor^), only 281 ft. above the sea. yet apparently enclosed 1n- richly cultivated hills of considerable height. There are numerous inns, of which the best appear to be the Tre Co- rone and Stadt Trieste. The cathedral, tlie Jesuits' Church. and the Castle, nowa prison, commanding a noble view, deserve a visit. For many centuries the Counts of Gorz were amongst the most powerful of the smaller sovereigns of S. Germany; and their possessions, conterminous with those of the ecclesiastical rulers of Salzliurg and Brixen, extended from S. Tyrol to Camiola. The aspect of the town, which has about 12,000 inhabi- tants, is singularly pleasing, and com- bines many of the characteristics of South Germany with those of Northern Italy ; but though always politically connected with the former, the Italian element predominates in the city. The surrounding district, however, E. of the Isonzo, is almost exclusively Slavonic, as shown by the race and language of the population. The dialect — called Krainerisch, or Kragnolin — spoken in the valley of the Isonzo, and throughout the Karst and South Carniola, differs in many respects from the "Wendish, which prevails through Southern Carinthia and the upper valley of the Save ; but the names of objects most necessary' to a traveller seem to vary little throughout the wide region extending from the j Isonzo and the Gail to Belgrade. The sheltered position and very mild ! climate, convenience of railway com- i munication, and moderate prices, recom- I mend Gorizia as a residence to many German families, and may hereafter attract other foreigners. Among other conveniences, that of tolerably good I hackney carriages standing for hire, I often wanting in the smaller towns of I Italy, is of material importance to ! strangers. The railway station is about 1 m. from j the centre of the town, and about an equal distance from the 1. bank of the ! Isonzo, which is crossed by a long and lofty A-iaduct. The direct way to Trieste lies SSE.. but the space between the "Wippachthal and the sea-coast is filled by a rugged plateau of cretaceous rocks, forming a NW. extension of the Karst (§ 64, Rte. A). To avoid traversing this difficult tract the rly. makes a considerable detour, rOUTE B. — CAPORETTO TO UDINE. 563 being carried for nearly 8 m. from Grorizia in a WSW. direction along the SE. side of tlie Isonzo. At the Sayrado station, nearly opposite the little forti- fied town of Gradi^ca, the rly. finally turns SE. away from the river. [From the Sagrado station the loA-er of anti- quity may make a short excursion, of about 10 m. to Aquileja, the greatest sea-port of Imperial Eome, then the see of Patriarchs, now a fever-stricken village, with ecclesiastical monuments that alone attest its former importance. The \oc-dl farmacista has a valuable col- lection of antiquities. More effectual than the rage of Attila, who sacked and burned the only place in this region that attempted to wi thstand hi s onward march, the imperceptible action of the torrents of the Carnic and Julian Alps has trans- ported such masses of calcareous sand and mud from the flanks of the moun- tains to the northern shore of the Adri- atic that Aquileja is now more than 3 m. distant from a shallow lagoon, en- closed by sand-banks and low islands, most of which have come into existence since the Roman period. The traveller may take boat for Grado, an ancient town on a small island, with a fine medijeval cathedral, resorted to for sea- bathing by people from Gorizia and other neighbouring towns.] From Sagrado the railway, after tra- versing two tunnels, reaches Moiifal- co)ie (Inn : Leone d' Oro, very fair), a clean little town on the slope of the hill overlooking the extreme northern share of the Adriatic. Shut in on the SW. side by the long spits of sandy shore about the mouth of the Isonzo, and bounded to SE. by the coast of Istria between Trieste and Pirano, the Bay of Monfalcone has the aspect of a lake, when its surface is not torn by the violent squalls that often descend froin the Karst plateau. Nearly 4 m. from Monfalcone, and about 1 m. from *.he sea-shore, the Timao (^im?i,yxis, of the Itomans) bursts out from the base of the rocks, a full-grown river. Coasting vessels come to load and unload cargoes at a mill within 20 yards of the chief o source. It is nearly certain that this is the cutlet of the considerable stream of the Reka, which, after a course of 2o m., I disappears from view at St. Kanzian I (§64, Ete.A.). The rly. ascends gradually from Mon- I falcone, passing over two lofty viaducts, and leaving on the rt. hand the pic- turesque Castle of Duino, which rises ! very boldly above the shore, and at- j tains the southern verge of the Karst I plateau at the junction station of I iSTabresina, whence Trieste is distant I about 10^ m. (See § 64, Rte. A.) Route B. caporetto to ldixe. Austrian English miles miles Cividale ... 4 19 Udiue .... 2\ llf Though scarcely Alpine in character, this road well deserves the traveller's notice, as it offers a very direct and agreeable way from Yenicn and Udine to one of the most interesting districts of the Eastern Alps — the head of the valley of the Isonzo. Leaving Venice at 7.35 A.M., the traveller may easily reach Flitsch on tlie same evening, es- pecially if he take the precautitm of ordering a carriage to meet him at the rlv. station at Udine. A single tra- 2" 5G4 SOUTH-EASTERN ALPS. § G3. TERGLOU DISTRICT. Teller \rithout much luggage may, how- ever, be content to trust to the light currottiue that are found standing at the rly. station. Going from Flitsch tile traveller may not only reach Udine in time for the evening train to Venice, but may devote 2 or 3 lirs. to the anti- quities of Cividale. \V. of Caporetto, as mentioned in the last Etc., one of those wide low open- ings characteristic of the orography of this region, extends nearly at a level, and forms a gap in the range dividing the Isonzo from the Xatisone. The ascent is quite trifling, and after pass- ing the summit level, the road goes round a rocky corner and overlooks the Xaiisone torrent. The botanist will find much occupation here, even though he should not be tempted to ascend the Monte Matajur (H.'llZ'), rising S. of the road, and marking for some distance the frontier between Austria and Italy. Among other rarities, Aquilegia Hcen- keaiia, Alyssum Gemonense, Geranium macrorhizon, Evonymus verrucosus, and Trifolium hyhridum, are seen near Caporetto ; the very rare Saxifraga Unella, Pccderota Bonarota, and P. Agrria, with other Alpine species, are Been at the base of the rocks on the 1. of the road as it approaches the Natisone, scarcely 1,500 ft. above the sea. On the slopes of the Matajur grows LVixtm Carnioliciim, along with other local species. The Natisone originates in the mountains 11 or 12 m.W. of Caporetto, and flows at first towards that place, as though its original course had been through the gap spoken of above. At the point where it is met by the road the stream turns abruptly round, and de- scends SSW. through a narrow and picturesque valley. Though after crof-s- ing the Italian frontier the mountains gradually subside to the dimensions of hills, the scenery continues to be very pleasing throughout the rather long stage extending to Cividale, the ancient Forum Julii, probably the earliest Koman settlement in this region of Upper Italy. There is at least one fair inn (name forgotten). In the local museum Is a large collec- tion of Koman antiquities, and the Archivio contains documents of great I interest, especially the so-called Pax of ' St. Ursus. The Duomo (cathedral) is ■ of the loth century, but contains many objects of high antiquity, especially a small octagonal baptistery dating from I the 8th centur}-, attributed to Callixtus, I Patriarch of Aquileja. It bears a cu- rious contemporary Latin inscription. I A small church of Sta. Maria contains I an altar-piece considered the best work I of Pelegrino di San Daniele. On the ! opposite side of the>»atisone the church i of S. Martino is said to deserve a visit. j From Cividale the road runs nearly ] at a level through richly cultivated I country, and crossing on the way the j broad shinirlv bed of the Torre, reaches Udine (§ 62,'Rte. B). EOUTE C. VILIACH TO LATBACH, BY TKE VALLET OF THE SAVE. Austrian English miles milea "^Vurzen . 3 14 As.-liii- . n 15i Otrok 2 4 Kr.iiuhurg 2i 111 Lay bach . . 3* 16^ 14i 67 Post-road to Wurzen ; railway thence to Lay bach. lentil the railway from Yillach to Tarvls is completed travellers bound for Lay bach will merely go by road to Wurzen and there take the railway j train ; but those who wish to see the ' ccuntry will prefer to follow the road I a) is reached by a cross-road. Below the junction of its two main branches the Save becomes a river; and hence- forth flows through the broad open valley with a more even and gentle cur- rent. Halfway between the post-station of Ottok and Krainburg the Klagenfurt road, descending from the Loibl Pass, joins our Ete. Krainburg (1,296') has a fairly good inn (zum alten Post) ; the Post is no longer used as an inn. From this neigh- bourhood the two chief mountain groups of Camiola are seen to great advantage. The Terglou, about 27 m. distant, here towers to a great height above the inter- vening ranges, while the higher summits of the Sulzbacher Alps, culminating in the Grintouz, are only about half as dis- tant, and invite the mountaineer to an excursion (see § 64, Ete. D). From the rising ground on which the little town Btands, the road descends to a bridge over the Save, and thenceforth keeps to the SW. of the river, usually at some distance from its rt. bank. At Medvo- dame{Gevm.Zwischeniudssem) the Zet/er, a considerable affluent of the Save, de- scends from WNW. to join the main stream. [About 6 m. distant is the ancient little town of Laak (1,308') at the junction of the Soura with the main branch of the Zeyer. The former stream leads, at first WiSlV., then about due W., to the Podberda Pass on the N. side of the Borodbi. A path descends thence along a mountain torrent which falls into the Idria about 2 m. above its junction with the Isonzo (Ete. Gr). From the upper valley of the Soura another pass leads over the Cemi Vrh to Feis- tritz in Wochein. A tolerable char-road leads from Laak along the Zeyer — most of the way about due WSW. — to Idria]. A range of low hills, fornaed of carboni- ferous and triassic rocks, extends from Laak towards Laybach, and along with a similar range running westward from Cilli on the N. side of the Save, almost completely divides the basin of Krain- burg from that of Laybach. The country traversed on the waybetween Krainburg and Laybach has that air of contentment and prosperity that characterises the southern provinces of Austria. The mountaineer, who is never altogether satisfied when travelling towards the low country with his eyes turned away from the higher peaks, has some satis- faction in knowing that at Laybach (§ 64, Ete. A) he joins the great line of railway that in a few hours can carry him to new scenes of activity and en- joyment. ROUTE D. LAYBACH TO TARVIS. 567 Route D. laybach to tabvis, by veldes. ascent of the tekglou, Few travellers ^nll be satisfied to keep to the high-road, described in the last Rte., between Villach and Laybach, and unless overpressed for time, will at least make two detours from the direct course — to the charming lake of Veldes, and the road from Wurzen to Tarvis. An excursion from Veldes to the Wochein Lake is easily made, even by ladies, and moderate walkers may thence reach the Save valley by the Kerma Pass. The ascent of the Terglou is for a practised cragsman the most attractive expedition in this part of the Alps. A light carriage for Veldes (about 35 m. distant) can generally be hired at Laybach for 10 fl. The way is by Krainburg (described in last Rte.), and it is possible to follow the post- road for a considerable distance farther, and then to take a country road to Rad- mannsdorf (1,617')) a little town about 3 m. from the main road, on rising ground above the 1. bank, standing a little below the junction of the Woch- einer Sau with the main branch of the river. A rather shorter, and on the whole a more agreeable way, from Krainburg, is by a good country road along the rt. bank of the Save. Cross- ing the Savitza, or Wocheiner Sau, a short way above its confluence with the main branch, the road mounts over a low hill, and suddenly the traveller gains a view of the enclosed basin in which lies the little Lake of Veldes (1,569'), known to the Romans as Lacus Auracius. Though of miniature di- mensions — about ly m. long by 7 fur- longs wide — and surrounded by hills of moderate height, the higher mountains to the S. and W., and the not distant Karawankas to the N., form such a noble and varied background, and the nearer objects are so picturesque, that this little lake may fairly compete with many others of greater dimensions and wider celebrity. On a rock rising very steeply above the northern shore stands the ancient castle, long an appanage of the bishops of Brixen. At the base of the rock stands the village of Veldes. There are several villas and two good hotels on the lake, much resorted to in I summer by visitors from Trieste and Laybach. The Gasthof zum Erzher- zog Sigmund (formerly Petran's) is at |the hamlet of Seebach, about ^ m. from Veldes. The position is pretty and the accommodation good. Boating is the favourite pastime. Nearer to Veldes is a newer and larger hotel, known as Louisenbad, also said to be well kept. The position of the lake is singular. It lies on one side of the channel of the Savitza, which is less than J m. distant, and separated from it by a slender ridge of dolomitic lime- stone. Being only about 100 ft. deep, the bottom of the lake is considerably higher than the bed of the stream, which flows through a deep channel only 1,323 ft. above the sea at its junction with the Save. The lake is probably fed, and is certainly drained, through subterranean channels, as it has no visible outlet. On a rocky island in the middle stands the little pilgrimage church of Maria im See. Among other excursions from Veldes, the active pedestrian may cross the main valley of the Save, and ascend high enough on the southern flank of the Stou, to gain a noble view of the valley and of the successive ranges that intervene between this and the Terglou. The most interesting excursions from Veldes are those to the Wocheiner See, and the ascent of the Terglou, both noticed below. The pedestrian bound for Wurzen may take a very agree- able course by Oher- Gbriatsch, descend- ing thence to the Radoina torrent. Then ascending along that stream for 7 or 8 m., he reaches the singular gap near Moistrana (noticed in describing the 5G8 SOUTH-EASTERN ALPS. § G3. TERGLOU DISTRICT. descent fi'om the Terglou), and at that village rejoins the main branch of the Save. The carriage-road from Veldes to Wurzen also passes through very pic- turesque and pleasing scenery. Mount- ing rather steeply among the richly- wooded hills that divide the Eadoina from the Savitza, it crosses the former stream, and again ascends amidst park- like glades, amidst which are seen some country-houses of resident pro- prietors, and finally descends to rejoin the Save, a little below Assling (Rte. C). Having reached "Wurzcn by the post- road, this is left to wind northward up the slope of the "Wurzenerberg (Rte. C), while the way to Tarvis lies due E., through a deep depression connecting the valley of the Save with the head- waters of the Fella (§ 62. Ete. B), here dividing the Julian Alps from the west- ern extremity of the Karawankas, as on the opposite side of Tarvis the same trough separates them from the eastern prolongation of the Carnic Alps, Soon after leaving "Wui^zen, the road ap- proaches the verge of a shallow lake, or large pool, with low swampy shores, whose dreariness is partially relieved by the fine stern mass of the Mangart — the most conspicuous peak throughout the greater part of the way to Tarvis. This lake, called Wurzener See, is com- monly considered the source of the Save ; but that name more properly belongs to the torrent feeding the lake. This originates in the Planitzathal, a glen cutting deeply into the mountains on the E, side of the Mangart, A very slight ascent leads from the lake to Bafachach, a small place close to the watershed between the Save and the E, branch of the Gailitz, along which lies the way to Tarvis, The height of the summit-level is only 2,821 ft. Not far beyond Ratschach is the opening of another glen, promising Scenery more interesting than that of the Planitzathal. This runs right into the mass of the Mangart. It contains two lakes, lying one above the other, from which that great mountain is seen to great advantage. [In the ' Jahrbuch' of the Austrian Alpen-Verein for 1866, Herr von Pavich has described an as- cent of the Mangart (8,776') effected on August 10, 1865, Quitting Katschach at 2.30 A,M,, the party, consisting of the writer, with a friend and two guides — Peter Kirchmayer, innkeeper, and G. Petric — arrived at the foot of the moun- tain at 4,30. A steep ascent through a bare wood led to the stony aim of Mirnig, the S. end of which was reached in 1 hr. Bearing to the W,, a \ hr,'s scramble up the base of the Trav- nik (the Mittagskofel of the General- fetabskarte) was succeeded by an easy zigzag ascent of its steepish W, slopes to the lower shoulder, proceeding along which in a S. direction, a sno^^•field and chaos of rocks — called Jarischza — were traversed, and, the cliffs beyond having been climbed, the party stood in 2 hrs. more upon the final ridge con- necting the Travnik with tlie Kl. ZVIangart. Following the arete eastwards, be- neath a summit called the Xos (Nase), masses of geroll, snowfields, and bare rock, were successively traversed, and the summit of the Little Mangart was reached in 3^ hrs., and that of the Great Mangart shortly afterwards over the narrow kamm connecting the two peaks. Two stone-racn were found on the summit. Bad weather with thick fog having set in, the pirty took a wrong direction, so that 5 hrs. wire occupied in the descent. Peter Kirchmayer (the inn- keeper at Ratschach) is a good guide. He is satisfied with 3 fl. for the expe- dition. From 5 to 6 hrs. sutfice for the ascent for an average walker. It is easy to descend from the ridge above men- tioned to Unter-Preth, and so to Flitsch, which place is reached in 8 hrs, from Ratschach,] On approaching the road, the Pla- nitza torrent tui-ns westward, and goes to swell the Gailitz below Tai-vis. The boundary- between Carinthia and Carniola is reached at Weisscnfeh. Amid pretty broken country, watered by frequent streams that are not seen on the southern declivity of the Julian ROUTE D. VALLEY OF THE WOCHEIN. 569 Alps, the road descends gently to Tar- vis (§ 62, Rte. B), between 9 and 10 m. from Wurzen. Valley of the Wochein. i'ew strangers who visit Veldes will neglect to visit the valley of the Savitza, called in German Wocheiner Sau, because it originates in the valley of the Wochein (Germ. Die Wochein), which is surrounded by many of the highest summits of the Julian Alps, Comparatively few will attempt tlie ascent of the Terglou, but there is a moderately easy pass, leading through noble scenery, by which ordinary walkers may reach the upper valley of the Wur- zener Save at Moistrana. It is just possible to accomplish a visit to the Wochein Lake and the ascent of the Terglou in two days, sleeping on the first at the Belpole Alp. It is a much better plan to allow another day for the expedition, and to sleep on the first night at Feistritz, where the village inn supplies very comfortable quarters. The road from Veldes crosses the narrow rocky barrier that divides the Veldes lake from the Savitza. For several miles the upward course along this Btream is nearly due S. The Savitza, which is remarkable for the bright green tint of its waters, is enclosed be- tween well-wooded rocky slopes, and the way is throughout agreeable ; but it is only after turning westward, and passing the village of Feistritz, that the scenery rises to grandeur. Before reaching that place a branch road passes over a gap in the hills on the N. side of the valley, and then descends westward along the Kerschdorfer torrent, parallel to the Savitza, but flowing in the opposite direction. This is the direct way from Veldes to Mitterdorf, from which place the ascent of the Terglou is commenced. The traveller who would make a detour by the Wochein, and intends to com- mence the ascent of the Terglou on the same afternoon, should send a messenger to Mitterdorf, to secure the presence of a guide at the hour appointed. The road, through the Wochein valley crosses to the S. bank of the stream, about 1-i m. from Veldes, to reach ! Feistritz (1,.569'), the chief place of I the Wochein. with considerable iron- i works belonging to Baron Zoys, and a I good country inn, just outsidethe village. Ancient Roman mining works have been j discovered near Vittiiach, on the opposite j side of the Save. Feistritz is the best I stopping-place for a stranger who would I give a few days to the exploration of this remote, yet very interesting, valley. The geologist will find much to engage his attention, and will discover proof of the antiquity of the valley in the miocene deposits that are accumulated to a con- siderable depth in the neighbourhood of Feistritz. Among the characteristic plants of the lower valley are Sedum hii>2xmic2C77i and Astrantia Carniolica. A drawback on the pleasure of mountain excursions in this district is the extreme scarcity of water. In consequence of that circumstance, and of the prevalence of Festuca eskia, a wiry grass refused by horned cattle, the upper pastures are chiefly occupied by sheep and goats, and the moimtaineer can rarely count on finding milk or butter. An easy pass leads from Feistritz to St. Lucia at the junction of the Idria with the Isonzo, a few miles below Tolmino (Rte. A). About 5 m. W. of Feistritz the char- road comes to an end on the E. shore of the Wochein Lake (Germ. Wocheiner See), 1,715 ft. above the sea. With some diflferences that will not escape the tra- veller's notice, this smaller sheet of water will forcibly recall to his recol- lection the Lake of Hallstadt in the Salzkammergut, and to the geologist the parallel is maintained in a striking way by finding nearly all the same de- posits arranged in the same order. Close to the point where the traveller reaches the lake are a few houses, and the church of St. Johann. On the rt. hand the Sa- vitza flows eastward out of the lake; while a few hundred yards farther, the meagre stream which combines several i torrents draining the S. side of the Terglou flows in the opposite direction into the lake. At St. Johann the tra- ' veller may generally find a boat to carry , him to the upper end of the Wochein 570 SOUTH-EASTERN ALPS. S 63. TERGLOU DISTRICT. valley. This is enclosed between arid and forbidding-looking mountains, chiefly formed of Dachstein limestone. To NW. something approaching to a defi- nite range extends from the Terglou to the Vagatin (6,565') — sometimes written Bogatin — and on the S. side the latter mountain is connected with the Monte Kuck (6,829') and the Wochu. The usual limit of travellers in this valley is a fine waterfall, reached by a good path from the head of the lake. It is usually considered the source of the Savitza, The stream issues from a hollow in the mountain, but is obviously fed by several small tarns, lying higher up in a lateral valley N. of the waterfall. The Vagatin mentioned above, which rises a little S. of due W, from the head of the lake, is but an eastern outwork of the great plateau, many square miles in area, that culminates in Monte Km, and extends westward as a great promontory, overlooking a great part of the valley of the Isonzo. A rather steep path leads from the lake to Tolmino (Rte. A), over the Skarbinja Joch (about 6,000'), reaching Rauna in 5^ hrs. and Tulmino in 2^ hrs. more. The geologist returning from Feis- tritz to Veldes may take an interesting way by crossing the low ridge N. of Feistritz, and then traversing the lime- stone plateau ia a NE. direction, pass- ing the hamlets of Kopriunig and Groriusche. Nature has done much to isolate the mountain population of the Wochein, and such intercourse as does exist with the outer world is chiefly with Trieste and Grorizia, rather than with the Gi-ermanized towns of Carniola and Lower Styria. Hence, though Ger- man is almost unknown, many of the natives have some sHght knowledge of Italian. They appear to be an honest and friendly people, with livelier wits and more sense of humour than are com- mon among the people of S. Germany. Ascent of the Terglou. The two pub- lished accounts of the ascent of the Terglou (9,371') — in Slavonic Triglav — have created an undue impression of the peril and difficulty of the undertak- j ing. The accident M'hich caused the death of one guide, and the very narrow escape of the whole party, on the occa- sion of the first ascent of the mountain by Capt. Bosio in 1822, merely shows the imprudence of attempting the ascent of any of the prominent peaks of the Southern Alps at times when violent thunderstorms are to be apprehended. These rarely occur after the end of July. In fine weather the expedition is quite within the reach of any practised cragsman ; but the ascent of the main peak requires steady and cautious climb- ing, as the rocks are not very solid, and a single detached block may endanger the climber himself or his companions. The least experienced climber should go last in the ascent, and first in the descent. As the rocks have very sharp jagged edges, the traveller should look to the nails in his boots, and be pro- vided with thick doe-skin gloves. It will be obvious that the ascent may be accomplished in the reverse direction from that here suggested, starting from Lengenfeld or Moistrana instead of the Wochein ; but the hut at the Upper Kerma Alp is more uncomfortable, and is open for a shorter season, than that of the Belpole Alp on the S. side. The latter is a pasture for cows, while the former feeds merely sheep and goats — a further reason for the preference here given. As mentioned above, there is a direct way by which a light carriage goes in 3 hrs. from Veldes to Mitter- dorf — the highest village on the S, side of the Terglou — avoiding Feistritz. Most travellers will go by the latter place, and may take a direct path thence to Mitterdorf, over a low pass on the N. side of the Save. There is also a cir- cuitous char-road passing by St. Johann, and then ttirning about nearly in the opposite direction to ascend the stream mentioned above, whose main branch flows past Mitterdorf. At Althammer, a village by the way, the Mosnitza torrent flows southward from a very deeply-cut cleft at the base of the Ter- glou, below the Belpole Alp. That appears to be the natural way for ap- ROUTE D. BELPOLE ALP. 571 preaching the mountain, but the head of the cleft appears to be so steep as to be universally avoided. Mitterdorf has a poor little inn, but it appears to be moderately clean. The guides for the Terglou are a father and son named Schest. They expect 5 fl. each for the expedition. The father is growing old, and is rather slow. The son promises to be a good mountaineer ; but he may be drawn for the conscription, or go away to seek his fortune at Trieste. A local guide is not required for the diffi- cult part of the ascent by a traveller who is accompanied by one of the good Swiss or Savoy guides. The way from Mitterdorf follows a course much E. of the direct line from that place to the summit. After clear- ing the first steep ascent, the way lies along a ridge E. of the Mosnitza torrent, and finally approaches a nearly parallel streamlet tliat issues from a hollow in the Mali Brasky Vrh. That is the collective name of the mass rising E. of the Terglou, from which it is separated by the Kerma Pass. It would seem that a traveller going from Mitterdorf to Moistrana might shorten his way in distance, if not in time, by crossing the ridge between this hollow and the head of the Kermathal, gaining on the way one of the finest possible views of the Terglou. Prom the opening of the hollow, the way to the Belpole Alp lies westward, along a rough track that is carried round the S. face of the Drasky Vrh. As the ascent is very hot, 4 hrs. from Mitterdorf should be allowed for reaching the Belpole Alp (5,430'). The hiitten here have supplied night-quarters and good water to most of those who have made the ascent ; but the local branch of the Austrian Alpine Club has opened a more convenient refuge at some point higher up. On the way from Belpole to the base of the highest cliffs,besides many rare species characteristic of this region, the botanist may gather Arabis vochinen- sis and Saussurea pygmcea. After a con- siderable ascent over rocky ground in termixed with Alpine pastures, more verdant than usual in this district, the barren region encompassing the base of the peak is attained. The traveller, un- provided with drinkables, who recol- lects that many hours must elapse before water can be found, may be here tempted to diverge to the 1. from the direct course towards snow-beds l}dng in a hollow immediately under the highest peak. Even here it is not easy to find water enough for breakfast, so thoroughly is the rock honeycombed with fissures. As the Slavonic name Triglav expresses the fact, the mountain h is three heads, or principal peaks. Of these the westernmost is little seen from this side. In the centre rises the highest peak, a formidably steep pyramid, or rather obelisk, of rock, connected with the eastern peak, or Kleine Terglou, by an excessively narrow arete, but little below the level of the lower peak. This descends with moderate steepness to- wards the E. and SE., and the base of the rocks is surrounded by long slopes of debris. It is by these that the ascent of the peak is commenced, and they offer no difficidty to anyone used to wan- dering amongst limestone mountains. The rocks above look forbiddingly steep, but there is a sort of cleft, called by the German explorers of this region ' Das Thor des Terglou.' Having reached this point, there is but one possible way to the simimit, and local guidance is unnecessary. The climb up the ridge of the Kleine Terglou is steep, but the word ' danger ' here used by Capt. Holsmay is certainly inappro- priate ; nor will anyone used to moun- tain climbing find difficulty in reaching the summit, which, according to Profes- sor Peters, attains 8,820 ft. The younger Schest takes a wicked pleasure in re- counting how various travellers who have attained this point have found themselves affected by head-ache, sto- mach-ache, or some other bodily ailment that might afford a decent pretext for de- clining the remainder of the task set be- fore them. And it must be said that any- one who has not found out by experience that rock-climbing is ' not so bad as it 572 SOUTH-EASTERN ALPS, § 63. TERGLOU DISTRICT. seems,' may be excused for showing some liesitation at undertaking the as- cent of the final peak. The arete that spans the tremendous intervening gulf, begins as a_ broad-topped wall, but thins off to a breadth of a few inches, and abuts against the base of an obelisk of bare rock, some 600 ft. in heijiht, where if a man were to slip, he must fall at least 1.500 ft. before the detached por- tions of his body could find a resting- place. Yet there is no real difficulty, and no real risk, except that of loose masses of rock that might be detached by an incautious climber. The narrow- est part of the arete may be passed astride, but no one would think of doing so if the wall were 6 ft. instead of 1,200 ft. in height. Making the ascent in 1865 along with Mr. W. E. Forster, and this being the first walk of that season, the writer owns to having crossed the arete very cautioiisly, but on returning he had no difficulty in walking along it as if it were an ordinary path. Old- fashioned alpenstocks may best be left at the Terglou Thor, but those fitted with a pick, or ice-axe, are not found an incumbrance in climbing, and may sometimes be useful. The simimit is a ridge, about 40 paces long, covered with broken fragments of the brittle Dach- Etein limestone that forms the upper part of the mountain, with some cling- ing wreaths of hard frozen snow, and no trace of vegetation — very singular for a peak of such moderate height. There is probably no other peak in the Alps that combines so vast a mountain pano- rama with so wide a sea-view. The coast of Istria beyond the bays of Monfalcone and Trieste is well within view, and if the NW. coast of the Adriatic cannot be traced as far as the mouths of the Po, it can only be for want of objects to Ciitch the eye. Venice is undoubtedly within the range of view, but the writer does not know that any of those who have reached the summit have been favoured by a clear horizon in that di- rection. A small glacier, with well- marked crevasses, lies on a broad shelf of the mountain on its X. side, about 2,000 ft. below the summit, apparently overlooking the head of a short glen parallel to the Kermathal, drained by the Kotenza, or W. branch of the Ea- doina torrent. It seems quite impossi- ble to reach the glacier from above, but it is probably accessible from below, and would form the object of a pleasant ex- cursion from Lengenfeld or Moistrana. A rather long slope of debris leads from the Terglou Thor to a point verj- near the summit of the Ktrma Fass (6,332'). Although the only track lead- ing from the "Wochein valley to the upper valley of the "Wurzen Save, this is little frequented, and in the upper part of the Kermathal is ill traced, es- pecially in a hollow basin near the top, which involves a slight descent and ascent. There is usually one good spring of water available in the upper part of the Kermathal, but even this sometimes disappears in summer. The higher Alp is occupied only for a short season, and at the lower Xerma Alp, which is reached by a long and very rough descent in 2i hrs. from the pass, the shepherds rely for water on blocks of old snow which they carry do'wn from a cleft in the mountain. Hence- forward the path is much easier, and the declivity gentle. Looking ahead the traveller sees a broad opening that leads to the main valley of the Save, but when at length an abundant stream breaks out in the bottom of the valley, and is joined by the Kotenza, which drains the Terglou glacier, he finds with siu-prise that the united torrent is car- ried off eastward to join the Save several miles below Jauerburg. The native name — Badoina — has been G-ermanized to Bothweinhach, and the hamlet a little below the junction is called BotMcein. The way to the main valley of the Save lies through the broad opening which has been long in sight. An ascent of about 300 ft., and a longer descent, are needed to reach Moistrana, on the 1. bank of the Save, with a rough inn, to which a mountaineer need not object. .Eetter quarters are found at Lengenfeld (Rte. C), on the opposite side of the ROUTE E. — FLITSCH TO WUHZEN OR MOISTRANA. 573 valley, some 2 m. distant. A vehicle is ' generally to be found at Moistrana, and ] there is a road leading to Wiirzen along I the 1. bank, joining the high-road half ' \ray to that place. I The traveller "svho would ascend the Terglou from Lengenfeld or Moistrana should seek shelter for the night at the Ober-Kerma Alp (5,332'). Gregor Legat of Legenfeld is named as an ex- perienced guide. Captain Holsmay re- commends Alois Kovats of Moistrana, and warns travellers against a drunken fellow named AVucher. Professor Peters speaks very favourably of a tailor in the same village, whom (in spite of a halt in his gait !) he found his best guide j in this region. EorTE E. FLITSCH TO WUEZEX OR MOISTRAXA. Except by following the road over the Predil Pass to Tarvis, and thence by Weissenfels to Wurzen, there is no very easy way for the pedestrian who would connect a visit to the Monte Canin (described in the nest Rte.) with the interesting region surrounding the Terglou. The easiest course for a mo- derate walker is probably by a path that mounts along the bed of the stream from Unter-Preth, above Flitsch, and crosses the W. shoulder of the Mangart, descending on the opposite side by the lakes on the N. side of that mountain to the carriage-road near Eatschach. The writer has been prevented by wea- ther from crossing that pass, and has ob- tained no reliable information respect- ing it. Tlie course taken by the country people, long and fatiguing, but nowhere difficult, follows the main stream of the Isonzo nearly to its source, and leads to one or other of two passes, by one of which they reach Kronau, by the other Moistrana. The upper valley of the Isonzo cor- responds in many respects to the "Wo- chein valley. It was remarked in the introduction to this § that the general form of the main mass of the Julian Alps — not including the group of Monte Canin — is represented by the letter Z. The Savitza, flowing eastward from the Wochein, drains the lower angle, while the upper Isonzo flows somewhat S. of W. and drains the mountain region en- closing the upper angle. It will be un- derstood that minor secondary ranges fill most of the space included in the ground plan thus roughly sketched; and as the Savitza receives the waters of several torrents that have at first flowed in an opposite direction to itself, so a part of the drainage of the second- ary ranges near Flitsch flows ENE. till, after joining the torrent that is consi- dered the proper source of the Isonzo, the stream follows its normal WSW. course to join the Coritenza near Elitsch. The journey from Flitsch to Kronau is counted 10 hrs. steady walking, and an hour more should be allowed for reaching Moistrana. A pleasant path through the fields leads from Flitsch to the junction of the two streams, and the opening of the upper valley of the Isonzo, known to the German people hereabouts as Trentatkal, from the name of its highest hamlet. For a dis- tance of nearly 4 hrs. the Trentathal is one of the most dreary and desolate- looking in the Alps. The slopes on either hand are bare rock or piles of debris, and for the greater part of the way neither a house nor a tree are to be seen. ' Death pictures were positively the only signs of life and became 574 SOUTH-EASTERN ALPS. § 63. TERGLOU DISTRICT. frightfully numerous ' [G-. and C.]. The traveller is not surprised to hear that the people of this neighbourhood are excused from direct taxation on account of the poverty of the soil. In the midst of this barren tract stands the little village of Sotcha, 2^ hrs. from Hitsch. The traveller should either start very early from Flitsch or else pass the night at Sotcha. The pfarrherr, who gave Messrs. Gilbert and Churchill a hospi- table reception, has been removed, and it is doubtful whether his successor will receive strangers. There is, however, a very poor inn. [From Sotcha a path, not to be attempted without a guide, leads eastward to the Wocheiner See (last Rte.\ It is said to be a walk of 10 hrs. to Feistritz.] Fully 2 hrs. above Sotcha ifi the hamlet of Looch at the junction with the Isonzo of the Sadenza, a tribu- tarv torrent draining a glen that runs up 'to the W. base of the Terglou. [By that way goes the path to Moistrana, over the Luknia Pass (about 6,200') between the ^V. peak of the Terglou and the Prisinig, and descends to Moistrana through the Uratathal. The pass lies at the head of the valley of; the Sadenza on the side farthest from; the Terglou, reached by steep zigzags; through beech wood, and then by al rough track over steep slopes, till a fine! rock portal is attained. In descending! the way first bends to the rt towards the Terglou, and then follows a dry! torrent bed and rough debris till thej stream is reached. '1 he course is then by the 1. bank till the tract becomes a; rough road leading to Moistrana, 12i hrs. moderate walking from Flitsch.] The next place on the Isonzo above Looch is Sta. Maria. The path to it lies somewhat "W. of N. as the main val- , ley begins to curve round to the 1. in ! approaching its head. In H hr. from Sta. Maria the traveller who has time to spare may reach the Source of the Isonzo. This is a striking scene. A very considerable torrent bursts out ir a single mass from the SE. slope of th« Jaluz, a mountain standing farther east than it is laid down on maps. The WorscJiez Sattel (5,254'), leading to the valley of the Save, lies between the Jaluz and a still loftier mass crowned by the peak of the Prisinig (about 8,400'). A rapid descent from the pass leads to the head of the Pischenzatkal, and into the verv' centre of some of the grandest rock-scenery to be found in the Alps. Those who do not undertake the long and fatiguing walk from Flitsch to Kro- nau should on no account omit to make a short and easy excursion from the latter village, or from Wurzen, in order to enjoy this noble scene. Nowhere can the contrast of fantastic rock-scenery with dark masses of pine and hrumm- holz be more fully enjoyed. On rocks about the head of the glen, and on slopes of debris below them, many rare plants may be found, and especially the very rare and curious Campanula Zoysii. 2^ hrs, are amply sufficient for the descent through the Pischenzathal to Kronau (Rte. C). EOUTE F. FLITSCH TO EESIfTTA. In the last as well as the present sec- tion occasional reference has been made to a great mountain mass, collectively known as Monte Canin, that lies be- tween the Isonzo and the Fella, or E. branch of the Tagliamento ; but no par- ticulars respecting it are given in the preceding Rtes, This is in many re- spects the most remarkable of those high plateaux of limestone rock that are characteristic features in the orography ROUTE F. FLITSCH TO RESIUTTA. 575 of the Eastern Alps, both on the N. & S. sides of the central chain. The Steinerne Meer, near Berchtesgaden, the Tannen- gebirge, and the Todtesgehirge, have been spoken of as examples of this structure ; but all these, even the first, fall considerably short of the elevation of the plateau of Monte Caniu, and some other singular features noticed belo"w are better developed here than elsewhere in the Alps. Although the writer has twdce reached the plateau, and once attained what is said to be the highest point, the presence of drifting clouds, which perhaps enhance the scenic effect, debarred him from obtaining complete and accurate information as to many particulars, and he has not been able to supplement these deficiencies from other quarters. The naturalist who would examine the upper region carefully must make one or more expeditions from Flitsch, unless he would pass a night in one of the miserable huts on the mountain. Eut an active walker, starting early, may take the summit of the Prestrelenik on his way to Eesiutta or Eaccolana. There is a rarely-used track across a slight depression in the plateau leading from Flitsch to the Canal di Eaccolana; v/hile the pedestrian who is content to approach close to the mountain may take a tolerably direct course by the S. side, or a much more circuitous, but' very interesting, way by the head of the Eaiblerthal, and the Canal di Eacco- lana. 1. By the PrestrclcniJc Satiel. Fully 8 hrs. from Flitsch to Eaccolana. The principal mass of the Monte Canin shows two very bold ranges of mural precipices, standing nearly at right angles, and meeting in the sum- mit which is known on the Friuli side as Monte Canin — probably that to which the height 8,711 ft. has been attributed. Nearly due S. from this summit extends the range of very steep rocks that closes the head of the Canal di Eesia, termi- nating southward by an eminence named Monte Baba. A m\ich longer range ex- tends somewhat X. of E. from the same peak, and is not marked by any deep break in its continuity till it approaches the Predil Pass. The highest part of this range terminates about 3 m. east of the Canin, in the summit of the Pres- trelenik, which is generally believed to be the highest point of the entire mass. E. of the Prestrelenik the plateau sub- sides to a height not much exceeding 7,000 ft., and the projecting points in the range extending thence to the Pre- dil — Monte Prevala, Monte Cerniala, &c. — scarcely attain a height of 8,000 ft. Speaking only of the higher part, lying WSW._ of the pass, which for the sake of distinction is here called Prestrelenik Sattel, we have a broken plateau, 9 or 10 square miles in extent, with a mean height of about 8,000 ft., bounded on the N. and W. sides by a series of watch- towers, of which the most conspicuous are the Prestrelenik, the Monte Caniu i proper, and Monte Baba. As far as it exhibits any definite slope, this is to- wards tlie S. and E., but under ordinary i circumstances no streams flow towards ! the valley of the Isonzo through the ' gaps that open here and there between the buttresses of mountain that sustain the plateau on that side. The only moderately easy way of access to the plateau seems to be through a wide and deep recess in the mountain range WNW. of Flitsch. Of three guides at Flitsch, an old soldier, commemorated by Messrs. Gilbert and Churchill, is objectionable ; a stunted little man, by trade a master chininey-SAveeper, is inoffensive; a third, named Grang-ua, living in the house Xo. 147, Flitsch, is perhaps the best. In fine weather, travellers used to this region scarcely require local guidance beyond the shepherd's hut, fully 2 hrs. above Flitscli. The path winds along the rocky slopes that circle round the recess above men- tioned, partially overgrown with beech scrub, affording slight shade from the sun, which is best avoided by a very early start. On the way the guide will surely point out the only spring of water that is likely to be seen in the day's walk. It trickles, drop by drop, into a little hollow scooped in tlie rock, 576 SOUTH-EASTERN ALPS. § 63. TERGLOU DISTRICT. which contains about enough to fill a leather cup such as mountaineers usually carry. A numerous party would need a long delay to obtain even so much drink for each man. The solitary shepherd's hut passed in the ascent is a miserable place, and its occupants are usually reduced to goats' whey as their only beverage. A short ^^■ay above tlie hut the last creeping pines are left be- hind, and the ascent begins over what now appears a stony wilderness, but will appear to one descending tliis way a cheerful region, when contrasted with the utter desolation of the iipper pla- teau. As remarked in regard to the head of the Wochein valley, the charac- ter of these mountains and the condition of the population are mainly influenced by the growth of a hard wiry grass, not distinguishable from the Pyrenean Fr.^- tuca cskia, which is not eatable by horned cattle, thougli sheep and goats, when hard set for other food, do not refuse it. But however uninviting to the eye, the stony slopes up which the traveller climbs with a general direction towards WNW. are full of interest to the botanist. Nearly all the rarest plants of this region of the Iligli Alps (excepting perhaps A'rabis vochincnsis) are found in the course of the ascent. The rare Campanula Zoysii here attains its western limit. Saxifraga ttnella. Ca- rexreclinata, and C.fuliginosa,\y\\.\\ many other prizes, will relieve the apparent dulness of the way. A new interest will be excited as the traveller gradually approaches the iippor plateau. If bent only on crossing the pass to Raecolana, he will leave it a little on his 1. hand; but by so doing he will lose one of the most singular and impressive scenes to be found in the Alps. This cannot be enjoyed early in the season when the plateau is covered with snow, and is best contemplated in the later season, after mid-August. Although the snow is then limited to hollows and shaded slopes, the traveller sees with surprise wide tracts of bare rock that reproduce to the eye the aspect of the great gla- ciers of the Central Alps. Narrow, parallel fissures stretch across wide spaces, and here and there, as happens with glacier crevasses, these are en- larged to broad chasms. The effect is i enhanced when slowly drifting clouds roll over the surface, vastly increasing the apparent dimensions of the stone glacier. 3Iost impressive is the awful silence that reigns amid this solitude. On the great glaciers, little gurgling rills furrow the surface by daytimf, minute insects are borne by the breeze, or find a home on the surface of the ice ; and, even Ijy night, some falling rock, or fragment of ice, reminds the stranger that great forces are still awake and active. But here all seems stiffened into silence and inaction, as by the Grorgon's head, and no sound, save th« howling of the storm, ever breaks the perpetual stillness. Yet, in the midst, of this cemetery of Nature, life, though silent, is not altogether absent. The rocky surface is indeed quite bare, but in the crevasses, partly filled by snow, there is moisture enough to feed a few bright flowers. The glacial Rammculus, the Alpine poppy, both the white and orange-flowered varieties, and a few- others, find the requisite conditions of existence. The pleasure of wandering alone in this desert region is somewhat marred by the reflection that any acci- dent that prevented a traveller from walking, might leave him to lie, without assistance, for months, if not for years, unless he should take the precaution to leave sxiitable instructions at Flitsch. In crossing the sharp-edged crevasses on the plateau a jump is sometimes requisite; and in case of a slip the re- sults v/ould be far more serious than on ice. On approaching the Prestrelenik, which rises in the form of a laterally compressed cone a few hundred feet above the plateau, the botanist is sur- prised to find it covered by compara- tively abundant vegetation, and among other rarities will recognise Alyf^sum Wi'.Ifrniamim and Saussvrea 'pygmcpa. The view must be at once extremely ex- tensive and interesting. The exquisite ROUTE F. RACCOLAXA PASS. 577 peak of the Jof di Montasio, rising at the opposite side of the deep cleft of the Eaccolana valley, is alone worth the trouble of the ascent. Bad weather coming on, the writer had but a momen- tarv' glance towards the SW., taking in a gi-eat extent of sea-coast, and a much wider view of the plain of Venetia than is seen from the Terglou. If, as the writer believes, the difference of height be inconsiderable, the view from the proper peak of the Canin probably in- cludes a much larger extent of country on the Italian side. It is said that there is a natural tunnel through the peak of the Prestrelenik, not far below the summit ; but in a rising storm the writer did not verify the assertion. To visit the plateau and ascend the Pres- trelenik, will involve a detour of at least 2 hrs. for the traveller intending to cross the pass which, for want of a re- cognised name, is here QSiW^di Prestrelenik Sattel (about 7,100'). The descent on the N. side, beginning with a long snow- slope, is steep and trackless, but not difficult. The only necessary precaution is to bear to the rt. as the traveller approaches the valley. The only path through the Canal di Eaccolana lies along the N. side, and this should be struck quite high up, above a deep gorge that runs under the base of the range of Monte Canin. The scenery of the so- called canal is charming, and affords a very pleasant afternoon walk. About half-way down, the path crosses to the 1. bank, above the poor little village of Saletto. Throughout the valley the tra- veller will be interested by observing the strange vicissitudes of the stream. It is clear that in floods this rolls its waters in the face of day, from one end of the valley to the other ; but in ordi- nary weather the water is lost to sight throughout the greater part of its course, passing either tlirough internal clefts of the rock, or under the masses of rolled blocks that often encumber its bed. At intervals it suddenly starts into daylight, filling its bed, and as suddenly disap- ! pearing from the sight. Below Saletto I the path returns to the rt. bank, and once I &, c. J. P more crosses and recrosses the stream before reaching Eaccolana, a poor village standing N. of the junction of the Canal di Eaccolana with the valley of the Fella. On the opposite side of the latter stream, and on the high-road from Pontebba to Udine (§ 62, Ete. B), is Chiusa, where a vehicle may be found for Eesiutta — 5 or 6 m. distant — or, in case of need, very fair quarters for the night. 2. By Saaga and the Canal di Bcsia. Scarcely 8 hrs. from Flitsch to Eesiutta, Saaga is a small village, with an inn that does not seem very bad, about 5 m. below Flitsch, on the way to Gorizia (Ete. A), at the junction with the Isonzo of a torrent called Rio Bianco. At least two paths lead thence to Eesiutta, and another, nearly due W., goes to Venzone on the Tagliamento. It seems to be diflB.cult to find guides at Saaga, as there is very little communication be- tween the people of the Upper Isonzo and their Italian neighbours. The writer went this way from Flitsch to Eesiutta in spring, when much snow lay on the higher moimtains, and the lower valleys were bright with a thousand flowers. The guide, so called, knew the way for a short distance only ; but it did not seem easy to go far astray from the direct way. The ascent begins close tc Saaga, after crossing a torrent that de- scends from a recess in Monte Baba. After a rather long pull up a gravelly declivity, the track winds along the S. slope of a ridge diverging from the base of Monte Baba that divides the short glen of the Eio Bianco from the head of Canal di Eesia. By a gradual ascent the summit of this ridge is attained , and then begins a comparatively steep descent towards the Eesia torrent. The great range of precipices that closes the head of Canal di Eesia here shows very finely, but is lost to view as the traveller descends a long ridge that divides the Eesiafrom a tributary torrent. Although the maps show a track along both banks of the stream, the writer was directed to cross to the X. bank near Eesia, the chief place in the valley. The traveller 678 SOUTH-EASTERN ALPS. § 63. TERGLOC DISTRICT. must not be surprised if he finds it dif- ficult to converse with the people of this valley and that of Eaccolana, as they speak a peculiar dialect, declared to be unintelligible even by the people of the adjoining valleys. The scenery is not equal to that of the Canal di Eaccolana, but this is a very easy, and on the whole an agreeable way to Resiutta (§ 62, Rte. B). There is another way from Saaga which follows for some distance the gorge of the Eio Bianco. The guide alluded to above expressed a strong ob- jection to that path, but the reason did not clearly appear. 3. By the Eaiblersee and Eaccolana Pass. About 9 hrs. from Flitsch to Eaccolana, 2 hrs. thence to Eesiutta. The traveller who would enjoy the fine scenery of the Eaccolana valley, but shuns the somewhat laborious passage of the Pi'estrelenik Sattel, may effect his object by a detour over the Predil Pass, and a rery easy walk of 6 hrs. thence to Eaccolana. Soon after com- mencing the descent from the pass, the traveller may leave the high-road, and follow a path leading down to the little lake of Eaibl. A very gentle ascent leads from the upper end of the lake to the low pass, which, in default of a fixed local name, is here called Eaccolana Pass (S, 4:19'). Por a short distance, the ground gently slopes on the W. side ; but after passing some open ground, where the way from the Prestrelenik Sattel joins the beaten track, this passes to the rt. side of the valley, and begins to descend steeply over rough ground. The views of the Jof di Montasio, and the range of Monte Canin, from the neighbourhood of the pass, are of a very high order. The Canal di Eaccolana has been described above. EOUTE G. LAYBACH TO GOEIZIA, BY IDEIA OB ADELSBEBG. Although scarcely within the scope of this work, it seems desirable to give a slight notice of the considerable dis- trict, extending southward from the main mass of the Julian Alps, whose natural centre is the important mining town of Idria. This includes several groups of hills, ranging, for the most part, between 4,000"and 5,000 ft. in height, which differ widely in geological structure and in their general features. The whole district is nearly divided into two equal portions by the valley of the Idria, and the depression over which runs the road froni the town of Idria to Loitsch. On the XE. side of that line the hills are formed of carbonife- rous rocks of the Gailthal series, par- tially overlaid by triassic deposits. Much more modern are the hilly ranges, lying on the SW. side of the same boundary. These fall naturally into two groups, known by distinct local names, that are divided by a depression over which runs the road from Wippach to Idria. E. of that road is the tract, called Bimbaumer Wald, formed of cre- taceous rocks, in some places showing a dolomitic character. West of the same road, the hills stretching towards the valley of the Isonzo, are collectively called Tarnovancr Wcdd, and are formed altogether of Jurassic limestone. Taking together the whole region here spoken of, it presents on the S. side, towards the Adriatic and the plateau of the Karst, the aspect of an immense bas- tion, rising from 2,000 to 3,000 fl. KOUTK G. — IDRIA. above tlie surrounding country, with faces about 27 m. in lentrth, and a well- defined apex, marked by the projecting summit of Monte Xanos, tha southern- most point of the Birnbaumer Wald. The SE. face of the bastion, rising on the rt. of the road from Laybach to Adelsberg and Prawald, is somewhat broken by a projecting mass above Planina ; while in the SW. face, which overlooks the "Wippachthal, the uniform outline is broken by a slight recess in the hills, corresponding to the breach between the Jurassic and cretaceous rocks. 1. By Idria. Railway to Loitsch 23^ m. Eoad from Loitsch to Idria, about 15 m. On foot, from Idria to Gorizia, 8 or 9 hrs.' walking, exclusive of halts. Reference was made in Rte. C to a road from Laak to Idria, which might be used by a traveller descending the ralley of the Save, who has no occasion to pass by Laybach; but the ordinary way is to take the railway from Laybach to Loitsch (§ 64, Rte. A). At the good hotel of the Post, not far from the rly. station, a carriage may be engaged for Idria — charge, 6 to 8 fl. The road is now in good order : but as it is very hilly, fully 3j hrs. should be allowed for the drire. On approaching the town, the road descends into the comparatively deep basin in which stands Idria (1,543'), long famous for its quicksilver mine. Inn: Schwarzen Adler. The object of nearly all strangers who come here is to visit the mine, which, next to Almaden in Spain, ranks as the richest in Europe. The metal, occurring partly as cinnabar, but chiefly in tlie native state, is found in the uppermost beds of the G-ailthal series, or nearly at what may be called the connecting link between the palpeozoic and the secondary epochs. A large building in the middle of the town, called the Schloss, or Gewerkenhurg, contains the offices of the Director and other officials, where permission to enter the mine is easily obtained. The entrance is close at hand, and after passing through an p entrance gallery, and a chapel, the visitor descends 757 stone steps. The chief inconvenience arises from the heat of the lower shafts— about 90° Fahr. — and it is not prudent to remain long, as there is enough of mercury volatilized at that temperature to affect the health of delicate persons. The mercury is ex- tracted from the poorer ores by roasting — a process carried on in winter, when snow is on the ground, to avoid injury to the health of men and cattle. The mine has been worked since the begin- ning of the 16th century, but the an- nual produce has fallen from nearly 300 to about 150 tons. In case better accommodation be now available than was found several years ago, Idria is a place offering to a geologist or naturalist inducements for a halt of many days, especially in the early summer, before the surrounding hills are parched by the sun. In the immediate neighbourhood, the former may trace the chief subdivisions of the secondary formations from the chalk to the lowest beds of the trias, with the underlying Grailthal beds. These are described in an important Memoir, by Prof. Stur, in the 9th volume of the 'Austrian Geological Institute.' The botanist may find several of the pecu- liar species of Croatia and S. Hungary, which here attain their western limit, and some other more exclusively local plants. The following deserve to be noted — Hacqiietia Epipactes, Camp)anula ■pyramidalis, Omphalodes verna, Scopo- lina atropoides,Lariiium Orvala, Pri/nida carnioUca, LUii'.m carniolicum, and Ery- thronium Bens Canis. The extremely rare HladniJda pastinaccpfoUa has been found on the Monte ZJiaun, betweeji Idria and Heidenschaft. Most travel- I lers return from Idi'ia by the Loitsch road, retaining the vehicle hired at that place. There is another road, very hilly, and fit only for light country car- j riages. leading southward from Idria I to the Wippachthal. This nearly fol- I lows the boundary between the creta- ceous rocks of the Birnbaumer WaM I and the Jurassic range of the Tarto- p2 580 SOUTH-EASTERN ALPS. § 63. TEHGLOU DISTRICT. vimer Wald. In descending from Zoll, this road forks. By the 1. hand branch The traveller may go dvie S. to Wippach; while a rt. hand branch rnns eastward to Heidenschaft. The easiest way for ;i pedestrian going from Idria to the Isonzo is by the ralley of the Idria stream. Time woiild be lost by follow- ing its windings throughout the first part of the way ; and there is an easy and direct track through a depression in the hills which rejoins the banks of the Idria at Tribuse, and then follows its 1. bank to its junction with the Isonzo, about 4 m. below Tulmino. This, however, would be a very cir- cuitous way to Grorizia, which may better be reached by a rather long walk across the rough hills of the Tarnovaner Wald. The direct line passes by the village of Tarnova, but this apparently involves n^any intermediate ascents and descents. The way commonly taken is by Vol Chiapovano. Though no stream is com- monly seen in that valley, it marks a deep transverse trough across the range of the Tarnova hills, and opens into the valley of the Isonzo, about 4 m. NE. of Gorizia. A traveller unac- quainted with the Krainerisch dialect should take a guide from Idria for all the walking expeditions here mentioned, as the country people use no other language ; and the ground is often so rough that a traveller cannot make his way across the country without enquir- ing the way. 3. By the WippacJdhal. The most direct way from Laybach to Gorizia is by ;i country road that turns eastward from the old high-road to Trieste, about 4 m. beyond the Loitsch station, and runs through a sliffht depression in the Birnbaumer Wald to Zoll, where it joins the road from Idria, mentioned above. The way thence lies by Heiden- schaft to Gorizia. This course has no advantages, as it misses most objects of interest, and those pressed for time will prefer the railway. A far better way is to take a carriage from Loitsch to Han'um (1.530'), a little town on the tild road to Trieste, almost abandoned since the opening of the railway. It stands in a depression forming the na- tural division between the Birnbaumer Wald and the Schneeberg range that extends south-eastward to Fiume. Near at hand may be observed a good instance of one of the singular phenomena of this region. The considerable stream of the Unz breaks out from a cavern close to Planina, pursues a very sinuous course of 8 or 9 m., and as suddenly disappears in an opening at the base of a hill about half-way between Planina and Loitsch. There is no doubt that the cavern whence the Unz flows is di- i rectly connected with the great cave of I Adelsberg, and that the Unz is in the I main the same stream as the Poik which i is lost in its recesses. From Planina an I active walker will go to Prav.-ald, mak- ing on his way a visit to the Castle of ! Lueg, and passing over the Monte j Nanc-s, both further noticed below. I All travellers who have not already I seen the great Cave of Adelsberg will I doubtless take that place on their way j from Laybach to Gorizia, and the more j so as they can do so without omitting ! any other object of interest. Adelsberg , — 40 m. by railway from Laybach — is described in § 64, Kte. A. The way by road thence to Gorizia is about 43 m. Post-horses are no longer to be found, but tolerably good vehicles may be hired at all the chief villages by the way. After visiting the cave in the forenoon, an active traveller will have no difficulty in taking the Castle of Lueg on his way to Prawald, althoiigh that course in- volves a detoiu' of several miles. The writer, who has not visited the castle, cannot add to the account given in the following extract : — ' The singular Castle of Lueg (Pre- jana) is about 8 m.W. of Adelsberg (i.e. about 2 hrs.' fast walking fi'om Adels- berg, and as much from the Magdalenen- Grotte). It is placed in the highest of three caverns, out of which its chambers are partly excavated, and is accessible only by a flight of steps cut in the rock, by ladders of wood, and by drawbridges over gulfs and chasms. The rock is ROUTE G. PEA^YALD. 581 honeycombed with holes and perfora- tions; caverns alternate with buildings, and at its base the river disappears in a yawning gulf; it is altogether a myste- rious spot. ""Were a stone thrown from the summit of the mountain, it would fall perpendicularly to the bot- tom, parsing by the castle without touching it. From the base of the rock, and even from the yalley upon which it looks, the castle is not to be perceived ; it is only visible from the adjacent heights, and even these are at too great a distance to enable any artillery that might be placed upon them to reach the fortress. A road cut out of the solid rock meandering in every direction, and often winding back upon itself, leads to the gate." The lower cave cannot be entered on account of the Poik ; that in the middle is approached by wooden bridges, and extends ],8U0 ft. into the rock.' — [M.] About 10 m. E. of Adelsberg is Frdioald (Slav. Eesderto), formerly a post-station on the way to Trieste, 1,817 ft. above the sea, at the S. foot of Monte Xanos. It has an excellent country inn, in a house which is also a brewery, sometimes visited in summer by pleasure parties from Trieste. The chief object for a traveller here is the ascent of Monte Xanos (-4,251'). This presents itself as a bold headland, pro- jecting southward from the hilly region which includes the southern outliers from the mass of the Julian Alps. Irre- spective of its attractions to the botanist, its peculiar position enables it to com- mand a very interesting view across the plateau of the Karst, extending SE. to the mountains near Fiume. The W. coast of Istria is traced for a considerable distance, and the Bay of Fiume is also seen on the E. side of the Monte Maggiore (4,57^'), the highest point of that peninsula. The SE. face of Monte Nanos is very steep, though not inaccessible ; but the sun beating on the bare rocks is very trying. The SW. face is less steep, and partly overgrown with shrubs and stunted trees. The beaten track makes a great detour, but the ^-riter hit upon a rough goat- track that leads from Prawald directly enough to the plateau of the mountain. He prefers the view from the summit rising at the southern angle immediately above Prawald, to that from the some- what higher points rising farther N. The botanist should not content himself with visiting one summit alone, as the Flora of the pluteau is much varied. In addition to several of the plants mentioned as gro-v\-ing about Idria, Arabis Scopdiana, Viola innnata. As- tragalus Wulfcni, and Genista sericea, may be found, along with several south- ern herbs and shrubs of interest to the northern botanist. If bound for the Wippachthal, the traveller will descend by a beaten track from the plateau of the mountain to the high-road near St. Veit, a village about 6 m. NW. of Prawald, with an excellent country inn, apparently superior to any in Wipjpack (Slavon. Vipava), the chief place in the valley of the same name, 1,285 ft. above the sea. The sheltered position of the Wippachthal, protected from the destructive blasts of the Bora, and enjoying the influence of the mild sea- breezes, enables the inhabitants to cul- tivate many plants not seen elsewhere in Carniola, and makes the flora, even though it offer no very rare plants, of much interest to the botanist. The road, gradually receding from the stream of the Wippach, runs NE. from Wippach to Heidenschaft, or Aidussina, with a fair country inn. Just before reaching that thriving village, the road crosses the boundary between Carniola and the Littorale. Beyond Heidenschaft the road, keeping to the N. side of the broad valley, clings to the base of the range of the Tarnovaner Wald. The scenery is in places rather pretty, but cannot be called very interesting. About 33 m. from Prawald, or 43 m. from I Adelsberg, the traveller reaches Gorizia (^Kte. A). Most travellers will prefer to return from Prawald to the line of the Trieste I rly. Instead of returning to Adelsberg, : they will save a little time in going to 582 SOUTH-EASTERX ALPS. § C4. KARAWANKAS AKD SULZBACHER ALPS. Trieste by taking a light vehicle by Senoncc, and then crossing a A'ery steep hill that separates that place from the Dirada station. (See § 64, Ete. A.) SECTION 64. KARAWANKAS ANT) SULZBACHER ALPS. The easternmost division of the Alps S. of the Drave now remains to be de- scribed. The range of the KaraicanJcas, extending for about 70 m. from Tar- vis to "Windisehgratz, maybe considered as orographically the prolongation of the Carnic chain, from "vvhich it is di- in Camiola, Steiner Alps ; and in Styria^ Sulzbacher Alps. Inasmuch as the greater portion of this group lies on the Styrian side, and encloses the vil- lage of Sulzbach, it appears that the latter name is the most appropriate, and should be preferred by strangers. The geological structure of the Kara- wankas range offers many points of peculiar interest. The -western portion, indeed, differs but little from the ad- joining Carnic chain ; but on the eastern side we have more direct evidence of the continued action of el evatory forces along the same axis throughout a period of enormous duration. In the neigh- bourhood of Kappel we jBnd a band of true granite, overlaid by crs'stalline slates. In the series of stratified rocks ■whose outcrop is parallel to this cry- stalline axis and to the main valley of the Drave, the carboniferous (Grailthal series), the trias, and the Jurassic for- mations are all present within a very limited space ; and as trilobites and other Silurian fossils have been detected near Kappel, it is highly probable that the series of palgeozoie rocks ■will be hereafter completely made out. Reckoning from W. to E. the chief summits of the Kara^wankas are the Mittagskogeli 7.071'), Stou(7,326'),Ver- tatscha (7,208'), Koschutta (6.895'), Ovir (7,001'), and Petschen (6,926'). The Sulzbacher Alps are remarkably simple in structure. They appear to originate in a vast displacement which has upheaved an enormous mass of triassic dolomite, not overlaid bv the vided only by the breach through which ! Dachstein limestone which plays the Gailitz flows from Tanis to join the Gail and the Drave ; and the same conspicuous a part in the higher por- tion of the neighbouring Julian Alps. range may be said to extend still far- ' Several of these peaks attain a consi- ther eastward in the granitic mass of derable elevation. Of those which have the Bacher Gebirge between Windiseh- gratz and Marburg. Closely connected with the Karawankas range, and con- siderably surpassing it in height, is a Iteen ascended the most conspicuous are the Grintouz (8,386'), Oistritza (7,701'), and Raducha (6,730'). The Rinka, ■R^hich has been erroneouslv confounded group of dolomite peaks rising on the } ■with the Grintouz, apparently approach- frontiers of Carinthia, Carniola. and Stvria, and distinguished bv a different PS the height of that peak. The sceneiy of the Sulzbacher Alps name in ea^h of those provinces. This \ is extremely fine, and even though theat- is called, in Carinthia, Seethaler Alps; tractions of the Logarthal may have been EOUTE A. — MARBURG TO TRIESTE. 588 unconsciously exaggerated by travellers who, in a region hitherto so little known to strangers, foiind the additional charm of surprise to heighten its solitary grandeur, it must be owned that the district has hitherto been undeservedly neglected. In the range of the Kara- wankas there are also many charming nooks which will reward the traveller who gives some time to explore this range. The best head-quarters for a traveller are at Sulzbach and Vellach, but tole- rable accommodation is found at many other places ; and a great part of the Karawankas range may be visited from the villages in the valley of the Save mentioned in § 63, Ete. C, and espe- cially from Wnrzen, Lengenfeld, and Jauerburg. The northern and southern limits of this district are marked by the valleys of the Save and the Drave, and its eastern boundary is the line of rail- way between Marburg and Steinbruck. For the convenience of travellers, a no- tice is here given of the extension of that railway to Laybach and Trieste, completing the description of the rail- way from Vienna to Trieste of which the northern portions are given in Chapter XV. EOUTE A. ATAHBUBG TO TEIESTE, BY EAILWAT. Austrian Eng. miles miles Kranichsfeld *Pragerhof . *Pbltschach *CilU . Tiiffer *Romerbad . *Steiiibruck Sagor Littay *Laybacli *Loitsch Eakek *Adelsberg *St. Peter Diva<5a ♦Sessana Prosecco , *Xabresina G-rignano ♦Trieste 7 4| H 18; 2: 7 9i 7 4f 7 4f ISSi Express train (first and second class car- riages) in 7 hrs. :-i3 miii. Two ordinary trains daily in nearly 12 hrs. Several unimportant stations are omitted. The express train stops at those marked with an asterisk. At Marhrrg (§ 56, Ete. A) the rail- way from Vienna to Trieste crosses the Drave, just at the point where it emerges from the Alpine valley in which it has flowed more than 200 miles into the open hilly country that extends hence towards the borders of Hungary and Croatia. Between Marburg and Cilli the railway traverses a district of low tertiary hills, drained by the streams that flow SE. from the Bacher Gebirge, and finally unite in the channel of the Bran, which joins the Drave near the ancient town of Pettau, the ancient Psetovium, remarkable for the mass of Eoman remains that have survived 18 centuries of destruction and neglect. More than TOO sarcophagi have been disinterred here. Near the Kranichsfeld station (856') is a fine mediaeval castle. The next station is Pragerhof, at the junction of the im- portant line of railway that runs east- ward by Pettau and Kanizsa to the S. end of Lake Balaton in Hungary, and thence ]S»E. to Stuhlweissenburg and ,584 SOUTH-EASTERN ALPS. § 64. KARAAVANKAS AND SULZBACHER ALPS. Buda. The old post -road, which is car- ried farther W. than the railway, and nearer to the base of the Bacher Ge- birge, passes through Wlndisch Feistritz (Wend. Bisterza), a small town, 908 ft. above the sea, not to be confounded with a village of the same name on the Drave, SW. of Klagenfurt. The rural popularion of Lo^er Styria, S. of the Drave, is almost exclusively "VVendish, speaking the same dialect of Slavonic that prevails in Southern Carinthia and Upper Carniola. Tlie warm region lying between the Drave and the Save pro- duces much wine of good quality, which commands in Austria relatively high prices. Two tunnels are traversed be- fore reaching the Foltschach station. This lies on the X. side of a range of comparatively high hills that extend eastward from the neighbourhood of Cilli to the Croatian frontier. The most conspicuous summits are the Wotsch (3,215') and the Donatiberg (2,899'). On the S. side of this range, close to the frontier, is the frequented watering- place of Rohitsch, near a village of the same name, and at the head of the Sottla, about 12 m. from Poltschach. The water of the principal spring is shghtly sa- line, and contains much fixed air, much resembling that of Xieder Selters. Over 400,000 bottles are annually sent away to furnish an- agreeable companion to the rather strong white wnnes of the country. The position of Eohitsch is rather hot, but it oflfers the attractions of good accommodation and agreeable societJ^ In the neighbouring range of the Wotsch the botanist will find a few of the characteristic species of the Pan- nonian flora. This range forms the watershed between the Drave and the Save ; and the Sottla, flowing nearly due S., falls into the latter river a few miles W. of Agram. Xear Poltschach, on the X. side of the '^Votsch range, are the fine ruins of the AbUy of Seitz, the I most ancient house of the Carthusian ■ Order in Grermany, founded in 1151. ' Between Poltschach and the following station of Ponigl the rly. is carried through a depression on the W. side of the Wotsch, and follows a sinuous course among the hills till it descends into the valley of the Vogleina, along which it runs nearly due W. to am (751'), a very ancient town with over 4,000 inhabitants, the Colonia Claudia Celeia of the Eomans, stand- ing at the junction of the Vogleina and the Koduigbach with the Sann. There are nxmierous inns, of which the best are the Krone, Sonne, and Ochs. The traveller should not omit a visit to the ivy -grown ruins of the castle of Ober- Cilli, standing on the Schlossberg, an eminence S. of the Vogleina, overlook- ing the town and the rich country sur- rounding it, with the fine outline of the Sulzbacher Alps in the western back- ground. The Counts of Cilli rose to importance in the 14th century, but after extending their rule over the adja- cent parts of Carinthia, Carniola, and Croatia, a century of brilliant fortune was terminated by the murder of the last of the line in 1456. After that event the Emperor Frederick IV., hard set to maintain his claim to the inheritance, took refuge within the walls of the castle. Very numerous Eoman anti- quities have been found here, but a great portion has been lost by neglect, and many of the most interesting ob- jects removed to Vienna and Gratz. Eo- man inscriptions, built into walls and gateways or preserved in private houses, are very abundant. The Pfarrkirche contains a chapel which is a fine speci- men of the early German pointed style. Another ancient chapel, with a half- effaced inscription, marks the traditional site of the martvrdom of St. Maximilian in the 3rd century. Cilli is the most convenient starting-point for several expeditions in the neighbouring Alps, described in Etes. D, E, and F. The railway and the road to Agranu run southward from Cilli as far as the junction of the Sann with the Save ; but the post-road to Laybach took a much more direct course, nearly due E. from Cilli, approaching the S. base of the Sulzbacher Alps, known on that side ROUTE A. — LAYBACH. 585 as Steiner Alps. The scenery of the valley of the 'Saun is very pleasing, the rich vegetation giving place at intervals to steep, though not lofty, masses of limestone, partly carboniferous, partly of triassic age. Close to the Tilffer station (695') is a large establishment for mineral baths — called Franz- Josephsbad — close to the rt. bank of the Sann. The accommodation is said to be fairly good, and the charges reason- able, but its attractions by no means equal those of the handsome and well- situated establisliment adjoining the next station of Bomtrbad (656'). Though only re- cently become a favourite resort of strangers, this place, as its name ex- presses, boasts a high antiquity. Two Latin inscriptions attest the fact, and the channels through which the water is conducted from the hot springs to the baths are probably of Eoman work- manship. The establishment is said to be well managed and comfortable, the grounds are prettily laid out, and the position, on rising ground above the river, much superior to that of Tiifier. It is much resorted to in summer. Among other interesting plants the bo- tanist may find here Helhborus atrom- bens and EiqjJiorbia saccatilis. The Wendish name of the place is Tcplitza, thaj-/ being the generic Slavonic name for v^rm springs. The favourite ex- cursions are to the ancient castle of Montprds, nearly 2,000 ft. above the sea, among the hills W. of the river, and to the ruins of the Carthusian abbey of Gcyrach. Passing through a defile between rocky hills over 3,000 ft. in height, the railway and the road follow the banks of the Sann to its con- fluence with the Save at the Steinbriick Junction Station (624'). Very good food is found in the refresh- ment-room, and a large hotel adjoins the station. Here the Croatian railway turns SE., leading in about 2h hrs. to Agram, and thence either to Sissek, to meet the steamers that descend the Save to Semlin, or to Karlstadt. The tra- veller, if he has a few minutes to spare, should examine the railway bridge over the Sann, which completely eclipses the bridge by which the road crosses that river, built to replace the ancient ruined stone bridge which gave its name to this place. From Steinbriick to near Lay- bach the railway follows an upward course through very charming scenery, along the winding banks of the Save. The general direction is about due W., but for the first 10 m. the course is WNW. Coal with fine impressions of fossil plants has been found at some points in the valley, and also on the way between Cilli and Steinbriick, but not, as it would appear, in any consi- derable quantity. The S. side of the Save lies altogether in Carniola, and on the N. bank the boundary between that province and Styria is passed before reaching the Sagor station. Near here a rocky islet in the Save is said to be covered with the rare Saxifraga tenella. Beyond the Littay station the railway crosses the Save by a lattice bridge, and passes through a short timnel under the castle of Sojaneck. The Saloch station stands near the junction of the Laibach with the Save. Here the railway leaves the latter river and runs straight across a level tract to Laybach (994') — written Laibach in German, called in Slavonic Ljubljana, in Italian Lubiana — and known to the Komans as ^moua. The capital of Carniola, much enlarged and improved within the last 25 years, now contains more than 20,000 inhabitants. The Stadt Wien, and Elephant, rank first among the numerous inns ; next to these are reckoned the Wilder Mann, Lowe, &c. The still, clear, and deep stream of the Laibach, that issues as a full-grown river from the edge of the limestone hills at a distance of only a few miles, passes through the town. There are numerous sightly public buildings, but none that need engage the attention of a traveller. The col- lections in the Landesmuseum may pro- bably deserve the attention of a natu- ralist. From the ruined castle on the Sehlossberg, about 200 ft. over the town, 586 SOUTH-EASTERX ALPS. § 64. KARAWANKAS AND SULZBACHER ALPS. a fine view is gained of the stirrounding country, "which extends in clear weather to the Tei^loTi and Sulzbacher Alps, with a portion of the Karawankas range between them. The plain watered by the Laibach, between the city and the hills, was for centuries a mere swamp, the favourite resort of aquatic birds, but the drainage works which have been carried on for more than a century have partly effected their pur- pose, to the great benefit of the sur- rounding population. The botanist may find several rare and local plants in the neighbourhood of the city, of which the following deserve to be specially noted : — Medicago carstiensis, Vicia orohoides, Aremonia agnmonioides, Mcdabaila go- lacensis, Pastinaca Fltischraanni, Cru- cianella molluginoides, Cineraria rivti- laris, Carlina simplex, O/nphalodes verna, Scopolina atropoides, Euphorbia, epithymoides and E. carniolica, Calla palustris, Lilium carnioliciim, Plptathe- rum paradoxum, and Danthonia pravin- eialis. The remarkable region lying between Laybach and the coast of the Adriatic does not come within the scope of this work. Many pages would be required to give even a sketch of its structure and of the many singular phenomena which are there exhibited ; but a very short general description, and a brief notice of some of the objects of interest adjoining the line of railway, must here suffice. Orographically the region lying be- tween the sea-coast and the basin of the Save and the Southern G-urk is made up of a broken and irregular range of lime- stone mountains extending from KW. to SE. flanked on either side by a broad plateau. The plateau on the NE. side, scarcely anywhere surpassing 2,000 ft. in height, is mainly composed of the same triassic beds that play so impor- tant a part in the geology of the SE. Alps, with some ancient basins filled by deposits of the cretaceous period. The central range, which we shall call from its best known summit the Schneeherg Uange, may be considered as a SE. pro- j longation of the cretaceous mass of the i Birnbaumer Wald, described in § 63 I Ete. Gr. Its northernmost summit, the Javornik, attains 4,044 ft., but it rises considerably higher towards the SE. in j the Schneeherg (5,883'), the Belschitza ( 0,8 9 4'), and other summits NE. of Fiiime. The remarkable range rising very steeply from the sea-shore between Fiume and Zengg appears to be a SE. prolongation of the same range. The plateau of the Karst (Ital. Car- so), \j\ng between the Schneeherg range and the Adriatic, is formed of cretaceous rocks of the same age, separated only by a narrow band of eocene deposits, hang in a fold or ancient valley that extended from Gorizia to the neighbour- hood of Eiume. The designation Karst is sometimes limited to the portion of the plateau Ipng nearest the coast; but as the character of the whole is remarkably uniform, it is highly incon- venient to divide it by an arbitrary line. It will be seen that, so far as it is pos- sible to speak of a range connecting the Alps with the mountain chains on the E. side of the Adriatic, that extend with little interruption from Fiume to Albania, this must be sought not in the range of the Julian Alps, that subsides into the trias plateau S. of Laybach, but in the hiUy district SE. of Gorizia, which may possibly be considered as the NW. extension of the Schneeherg range. The most striking characteris- tic of the entire region, and especiaUy of the portion formed of cretaceous rocks, is the degree to which, more than any other district of equal extent in Europe, it is pierced to a relatively great depth by interior clefts and reser- voirs. Most of the rainfall at once disappears through the chinks that traverse the surface. The streams which at rare intervals issue from subterranean reservoirs speedily disap- pear in the same abrupt way in which they come to light. The two most con- siderable streams — the Eeka and the Poik — both originate on the "W. side of the Schneeherg range. The first disap- pears at St. Kanzian, and after flowing ROUTE A. — LOITSCH. 587 diagoually beneath the zone of the Karst, falls into the Adriatic near Monfalcone, 23 m, distant ; while the second, after disappearing from view near Adelsberg, and revisiting the day- light as the Unz near Planina, returns for the third time to the surface as the Laibaeh, and joins the Save in its course to the Black Sea. A striking charac- teristic of the Karst is tlie number of large and deep hollows, usually of cir- cular or elliptical form, that occur at irregular intervals on its surface. These vary from a small size to a diameter of half a mile or more. Many of these appear to have been great caverns whose roofs have fallen in owing to the gradual yielding of the rock-pillars by which they were supported. The scourge of this region is the NE. wind, or Bora, which sweeps with terrific force over the plateau, and descends to the coast in furious squalls that make the navi- gation of the E. side of the Adinatic difficult and dangerous to inexperienced seamen. This formidable enemy, added to the aridity of the surface, confines the population of the Karst within narrow limits. Villages and trees can exist only in a few exceptionally favour- able sites. In the exposed parts, the few houses seen «ire built, both walls and roofs, of heavy slabs of limestone, and the small patches of garden ground are fenced from the wind by massive stone walls. The climate is severe and liable to the most sudden vicissitudes. In the middle of September the writer has experienced on one day overpowering heat, and on the next a furious snow- storm, in which a line of country wag- gons, abandoned by their cattle and drivers, lay upset along the roadside. Hence it happens that the vegetation of the plateau shows little traces of the influence of the Mediterranean climate. The more delicate plants are strictly confined to the sheltered slopes close to the coast. Starting from Laybach, therly. crosses the partly-drained marshy plain to the northern edge of the triassic plateau, and begins to ascend by winding along its irregular slop(.'S. A fine -viaduct leads to the Franzdorf station, where the rly. makes a rapid turn to WNW. as it mounts above the flat country. Here the traveller looks down on Ohcrlaibach, where the Laibaeh stream, navigable from its source, issues from the base of the hill. Before the opening of the rly. it was much used for the transport of heavy goods. This little town wa& the Nauportus of the Romans. The writer does not know whether there be any earlier warrant than the fancy of some mediseval chronicler for the my- thical tale that the town was founded by Jason and the Argonauts, who, after the seizure of the Golden Fleece, tra- velled so far by water, following the upward course of the Danube and the Save, and finally returned to Greece by the Adriatic. The next station is Loitsch (1,555'), where the road to Idria (§ 63, Ete. G) turns off from the former post-road to Trieste. There is a good inn (Stadt Triest) near the rly. station. Hence the rly. runs for 7 m. SE., at rt. angles to the direct course, to BaJcek. This is the nearest station to the Lake of Zirknitz, one of the ciu'iosities of this region, often visited by strangers. In its ordinary condition this is a large sheet of water, about 7 m. long, and, in places, 3 m. in breadth, 1,880 ft. above the sea-level, lying at the base of the Javarnik (4,044'), the NW. extremity of the Schneeberg range. Usually, but not invariably, the wa^er of the lake disappears in the month of August, and returns with the first heavy rains of autumn. During the interval crops of buckwheat are often raised on the low swampy shores, and in some years hay is cut on the dried-up bed of the lake. The explanation of this phenomenon appears simple enough. The greater part of the lake is very shallow, varying from 2 to 6 ft. in depth in its ordinary condition ; but there are a large number of circular holes, some of which communicate with subterranean channels. These suffice to carry off the drainage of the Kke at its ordinary rate of supply, but whea 588 SOUTH-EASTERN ALPS. § 64. KARAWANKAS AND SULZEACHER ALPS. this falls short the water is withdrawn into the holes, which at such times contain abundance of fish. When the supply of water becomes more copious the lake rapidly resumes its former level. Many rare water-birds are found here and in the swampy tract near Lay- bach. From the little town of ZirJcnitz (1,910'), near the N. end of the lake, the pedestrian may walk to Adelsberg through the woods on the X. slope of the Javornik. The rly. winds amid very rough ground from Eakek to Adelsberg (1,769') — in Krainerisch Postojna. The neat little town lies about I m. W. of the station. There is a good and reasonable inn (I{j-oue) in the town. This place derives a certain celebrity from its famous cavern, in all respects the finest in Europe. Con- sidering that a love of mischief is so common among the stupid majority of our species, it is fortunate that the pro- tection of the grotto from careless or voluntary injury is entrusted to a responsible director, and all those con- nected with it placed imder strict regulation. Tickets of admission are issued at 70 kr. for each stranger, and the guides are entitled to 80 kr. each. Ladies may have a chaise-a-porteur, costing Gj fl. The chief expense is the lighting, as to which travellers are free to decide, but the effect depends so much on sufficient illumination, that it is well to be liberal. The more striking effects will be tolerably well seen at a cost of 8 or 10 fl. The internal tem- perature is only about 48° Fahr., so that it is well to be provided with extra covering. The cavern is very extensive, and some of its branches are more than 1^ m. distant from the entrance. Those who go as far as a remarkable curtain of stalactite, called the Vorbang, take about 2^ hrs. ; but in order to include \ the Calvarienberg — a vast hall 112 ft. high, and about 650 ft. in length and breadth — nearly 4 hrs. must be allowed. Some of the most striking effects are produced by the river Poik, which runs through a part of the cavern, at one t:me heard and dimly seen rushing at an unknown depth below the travel- ler's level, at another crossed by a wooden bridge. The Dom, a hall about I 73 fc. high and 160 ft. long, was long I supposed to be the largest of these j subterranean chambers, but is greatly j surpassed by many others discovered ' during this century. In that called the Tanzsaal, more than 300 ft. long, a ball is given on Whit-Monday, which attracts visitors from Trieste and other more distant places. The Proteus anguinv.s, I a blind reptile of great interest to ! zoologists, is found not in the great I cavern, but in the Magdalena Grotto, about 3 m. from Adelsberg. In the 1 same subterranean pool blind water- I beetles have also been discovered. Spe- cimens of the Proteus are generally to be found alive at Adelsberg. It is necessary to protect them from light, to preserve an equable and not too high temperature, and to supply them with a frequent change of river water. From Adelsberg the railway goes southward along the stony valley of the Poik to St. Peter. At that place the road from Laybach to Fiume keeps nearly due S., passing by the W. base of the Schiceherg (5,883'), about 14 m. distant, while the railway turns west- ward across the Karst. One of the difficulties attending the construction of the railwa}' was the want of water for the men engaged in the work, and for the regular supply of the locomo- tives. Large cisterns fed by aqueducts have been constructed at the stations. At the station of Obcr Lese6e the tra- veller gains a view over the valley of the ReJca, which comes abruptly to an end at St. Kanzian. That very interest- ing place is best visited from the fol- lowing station of Divaca (pronounced Divazza), whence it is about 3 m. dis- tant. This cave of St. Kanzian is not to be confounded with another of the same name near Planina. The interior, so far as it has been explored, is not equal to many other caverns in this district ; but the approach to it, and the view as the traveller returns to day- light throuirh the noble entrance arch, ROUTE B. — LAYLACn TO KLAGENFURT. 589 are extremely beautiful and striking. By the way from DivaL'a the traveller may visit one of the largest of those singular hollo-ws that abound on the surface of the Karst, Among many interesting plants seen at St. Kanzian may be noted Saxifraga petrcea, Senecio arachwidctis, and Euphorbia fragifcra. At Sessana (1,628') the ground begins to slope towards the coast, and soon after passing that station the railway passes within about 5 m. of Trieste, but in order to effect so great a descent a very long circuit is necessary. The pedestrian will be tempted to leave the railway at Sessana, or the following station of Prosecco, and may reach Trieste not long after the train. At Nahreswa Junction Station the railway from Venice joins that from Vienna. There is here a good refresh- ment-room and conveniences for wash- ing — very acceptable to those who make the rather long' direct journey from Venice to Vienna. Nabresina is about 900 ft. above the sea-lerel ; and almost immediately after leaving the station, and completing a sharp turn, the tra- veller seated on the rt. hand side en- joys a beautifid view, stretching far across the Adriatic, with the Istrian coast bounding the view to the S. Near the Grignano Station is a point of land between the rly. and the sea whereon stands Miramar, the beautiful villa of the unfortunate Emperor Maximilian, whence he departed for the tragical ad- venture that ended at Queretaro. Pass- ing tlu'ough a long tunnel, the railway reaches Trieste, the one important seaport of the Austrian empire, as the small places on the Tlh-rian and Dalmatian coast hare no foreign trade. Exclud- ing the suburbs, the popiilatiou exceeds 6o,000, and the annual imports and exports are officially valued at not less than 8 milHons sterling each. The hotels are comparatively dear. In the first rank are reckoned the Hotel de la Ville ; Locanda G-rande ; Hotel Victoria ; and Hotel de France, with a good restaurant. Less handi^omely fitted up. and more moderate in prices, are the Albergo Daniel, and Aquilla Nera. English travellers know the city chiefly as the port of embarkation for the Ionian Islands, Greece, Constantinople, and the LcA-ant ; but the natxxralist will find much interesting occupation in the neighbourhood, which offers within a limited space great variety in the Faima and Flora. EOUTE B. i LA.YBACH TO KXAGENFTET, BY THE LOIBL PASS. ASCE>-T OF THE STOU. Krainbiirg Keumarktl Unterbergen . Klagenfurt Austrian Eng. miles miles . 5i 26 . 2 9i . 4 18| . 2 9i 13i 63f Post-road. Diligence week. plying only twice a This road was formerly much fre- quented. It formed part of the line of communication between Trieste and the centre of Germany, passing through i Klagenlurt, Judenburg, and Salzburg. j The extension of railway communi- cation has deprived it of the greater : part of the traffic. I The road between Laybach and { Krainbui'g is described in § 63, Rte. C. ' About hall-way between Krainburg and 590 SOUTH-EASTERN ALPS. § 64. KARAWANKAS AND SULZBACHER ALPS. Ottok, the next post-station in the main valley of the Save, the road to Klagen- furt turns nearly due N. to ascend through one of the numerous valleys of the Eastern AIjds that bears the name Feistritzthal. The cleft through "svhich the Feistritz torrent descends to the Save cuts through the triassic and car- boniferous strata, and below the latter exposes argilaceous and semi-crystal- line schists that probably belong to the Devonian, and perhaps also to the Silu- rian epoch. At some points porphyry is seen at the base of the series of stratified rocks. At the point where the glen fairly enters the mountains stands the busy little town of Neiimarktl (1,619'), at the S. base of the Karawankas (Inns : Post, good ; Graf Kadetzky). The main branch of the Feistritz which descends SW. from the S. base of the Koschutta, is here joined by the MoszeniJc, flowing SSE. from the Loibl Pass. The road mounts along the latter stream towards a gap in the mountain range, which, as seen from the S. side, appears to be the summit of the pass. It lies between a western promontory from the ridge of the Koschutta (6,895'), and the long ridge of the Bcgunschza (6.747'), an outwork of the main range running parallel to the ridge connecting the Stou with the Vertatscha and the Sele- nitza. Here the traveller has entered an enclosed recess in the mountains. One short glen mounts westward be- tween the Stou and the Begunschza, and another, still shorter, in the oppo- site direction along the N. side of the Baba (6,283'). The scenery is very fine. Bright green Alpine pastures, and masses of dark pine forest, contrast wf,ll with steep crags and pinnacles of white Dachstein limestone, which, in the higher peaks, caps the triassic strata. The forests harbour many wolves, which, in spite of the protection of St. Wolf- gang, commit sad havoc among the flocks. At the E. base of the Selenitza (6,533') the road reaches the hamlet of *S^. Anna (2,951'), and immediately commences the long and steep ascent by zigzags leading to the pass. The ascent lies chiefly over a red slate, in some places broken through by green- stone, and at the summit a narrow band of carboniferous limestone is ex- posed. The present road was com- pleted under the Emperor Charles VI. in 1728, and is not so well engineered as most of the Austrian Alpine roads. At the very summit of the Loihl Pass (4,445') the road was originally carried through a tunnel in the limestone rock, but, the roof having fallen in, this is now a mere cutting about 150 yards in length. To enjoy the view to better advantage, most travellers walk over this short space on either side of the cutting. Campanula Zoysii was first discovered on rocks near the pass; Geranium argenteum, and other rare species may also be found in the neigh- bourhood. The descent on the N. side is not quite so steep as the slope on the Carniola side, but is much more rapid than the gradients adopted by modern engineers. There is a project for driv- ing a tunnel through the mountain from St. Anna to the little church of St. Leonhard on the Carinthian side of the pass. This would be little more than f m. in length, and would avoid the steepest part of the road on both sides, diminishing the height of the pass by very nearly 1,500 ft. The descent lies through a hollow in the mountain range exhibiting a richness and vigour of vegetation not common in this region. As in some other places in this part of the Alps, the pine forest occupies the lower zone, and the beech extends above it to a level of nearly 5,000 ft. As happens on tlie opposite side of the pass, the glen into which the road descends is enclosed by a minor range parallel to the main chain, through which a gap or short defile, between the Singersberg (5,196') and the Czerni Vrh (5,360'), leads to the valley of the Drave. The first place in this defile is Unter-Loibl (1,808'), a village with a tolerably comfortable country inn. About 1 m. beyond it is the post- station of TJnterbergen, and farther on, ROUTE C. KRAINBURG TO KUHNSDORF. 591 at an equal distance, the village of Kirschentheuer^ with an inn perhaps superior to that at Unter-Loibl. Cross- ing the Drave near the picturesque castle of Hollenburg, the road runs across the rich plain to Klogcnfurt (§ 57, Kte. A). Ascent of the Stou. The mountaineer will naturally desire to complete his acquaintance with the Karawankas by the ascent of the Stou (7,326'), the cul- minating point of that range. Sup- posing that his destination is not towards the central district of the Sty- nan Alps, he may best accomplish this by going on the first day from Laybach to Unter-Loibl, or Kirschentheuer — go- ing on foot across the pass from Neu- marktl — and returning on the following day to the valley of the Save over the summit of the Stou. The shortest and easiest way is by the Bode?ithal. In that glen, whose torrent joins the stream descending northwards from the Loibl Pass about 2^ m. above Unter-Loibl, the hamlet and lead-mine of Bleiberg lie about 1^ m. W. from the high-road. From the summit of the Stou there is no difficulty in effecting the descent by the WSW. slope of the mountain to Jauerburg in the valley of the Save ; but it seems to be a more interesting course to descend SE. into the head of the glen mentioned above that divides the ridge of the Begunschza from the Vertatscha (7,208'), and to follow this eastward to the road of the Loibl Pass. A longer, but decidedly more interest- ing way than that by the Bodenthal lies through the B'drenthal. This opens into the valley of the Drave at Windisch Feistritc, a village with a good country inn, reached by a road leading westward from Kirschentheuer, about 6 m. distant A narrow and picturesque defile leads up to the more open basin at the head of the glen. Two or three farmhouses are passed before reaching the Barenalp, a group of hiitten enclosed by the sum- mits of the Kotschna (6,862'), Be7iza Vrh, and Stou. The scenery is said to re- semble, though on a smaller scale, that of the Logarthal (Rte. D). Here, as elsewhere, in the mountain valleys of the Karawankas, the Wendish dialect is the only language of the farmers and herdsmen. The ascent to the summit of the Stou lies over slopes of debris and broken rocks. The traveller who shuns laborious expeditions may enjoy the scenery of the Barenthal, and a fine view of the Terglou group along with the j nearer summits of the Karawankas, by I crossing the Kotschna Joch (about 5,200' ?), an easy pass leading from the Barenalp to Jauerburg. The ascent lies SW. from the alp to the pass which i lies E. of the Kotschna, and is reached in from 3 to 3^ hrs. from Windisch Feistritz. From the summit, which is a level tract of swampy pastiu-e, the descent lies through the Javornigthal, and in 1| hr. the traveller reaches Jauer- burg. EOUTE C. ICRAIXBtTEG TO KiJEN'SDOEF, BY BAD VELI-ACH. ASCENT OF THE OVIB, About 13 m. to Katiker; 13 m. thenoe to Bad i Tellacli ; 5 m. to Kappel ; 13 m. more to Kiihns- i dorf— in all about 44 m. Between Kanker and Bad Yellach the road is practicable only for light country carriages. The traveller who would see some- thing of the Sixlzbacher Alps without diverging from a carriage-road, may best follow the route here described, 592 SOUTH-EASTERN ALPS. § C4. KARAWANKAS AND SULZBACHER ALPS. which skirts the NW. base of that group ; but although he passes close to its highest summit — the Grintouz — he does not approach any of the other principal peaks. Bad Yellaeh offers, however, very eligible head -quarters for one who would devote several days to exploring the neighbouring moun- tains, as it lies within 3 hrs. of the Logarthal, which is the main centre of attraction. Krainhurg (§ 63, Kte. C) stands close to the junction of the Kanker with the Save, both of which have excavated a deep channel through the mass of diluvium that is spread over the broad valley. A fine bridge of a single arch, 110 ft. long, and 93 ft. above the torrent, carries the road to tlie 1. bank of the Kanker. For several miles the way lies NE. over the nearly level floor of the broad valley of the Save, but on enter- ing the hills through the opening of the ^an/ve/-^Aa/, the road (recently improved) crosses to the rt. bank, and runs E. to Kanker, a small village with an inn. The position is extremely pic- tursque. The Grintouz, which crowns a massive promontory projecting west- ward from the principal group of the Sulzbacher Alps, rises NNE. of the vil- lage, and sends southward a consider- able ridge that divides the Kankerthal from the Feistritzgraben. Ts". of Stein (Rte. D). Turning to NNW., at rt. angles to its former course, the road winds iipwards amidst the roots of the G-rintouz, passing several iron-works at its western base, till it reaches a rough inn at the village of Ober-Sscland (2,9JL2'). [The ascent of the Grintouz (8,386'), the culminating peak of the Sulzbacher Alps, is best made from a farmhouse called Suchadolnig (3,053'), lying some- what E.of the road between Kanker and Seeland. Ascending thence to a ' sheep alp,' called PZ«wm~a (o.oH'), the sum- mit is reached without any real diffi- culty. A guide should, however, be taken as the mountain is intricate, and it is easy to gf-t into difficult situations. As the summit lies more than 30 m. E. of the Terglou, the view to the E. and SE. extends farther than from any other Alpine peak.] The pass of the Seeherg (3,976'), be- tween Ober-Seeland and Bad Vellach, is short, but extremely steep on both sides, and those who can do so, will find it more agreeable to walk than to remain in the rough country vehicles that are alone used on this road. On the N. side the traveller descends into a richly wooded glen, where, almost buried in trees, the bathing establishment of Vellach stands by the road-side. Bad Vellach (2,741') offers by far the best accommodation to be found in the immediate neighbourhood of the Sulz- bacher Alps, supplying very fair rooms and good food at reasonable prices. The surrounding scenery is pleasing, and several excursions may be made in the range between this and the Logar- thal. In this neighbourhood the limited portion of the Sulzbacher group visible from the valley is called Vellacher Kot- schna, but it is a mistake to quote that as the Carinthian name for the entire group, of which, in truth, but little is known on the Carinthian side. For a notice of the pass leading to the Logar- thal, see Rte. D. The mineral waters of Bad Vellach appear to be in increas- ing repute. There are four springs, of which one only is used for baths. One, which is used at table, is chalybeate, and slightly saline, and issues at a very low temperature, about 48° Fahr. Strangers arriving in the frequented season may easily happen to find the house full ; and in that case must pusli on either to Kappel or to Seeland. A short way below Bad Vellach the tra- veller is almost startled by the sudden appearance of a colossal figure of St. Christopher painted on a vertical face of rock above the torrent. A rapid de- scent of 5 m. by a good road leads to the busy little mining town of Kappel (1,866'), often called Euen- kappel for the sake of distinction. There are at least a dozen inns, two or three of which are clean and comfortable- looking. A post-carriage runs daily noUTE C. ASCENT OF THE OVIR. 593 between Kappel and Kuknsdorf station, on the railway between Klagenfurt and Marburg (§ 55, Rte. A), going in the morning and returning in the afternoon. For about 5 m. it follows the banks of the Vellach, which is joined below Kap- pel by the Ebriach descending from the 8. side of the Orir. "VNTiere the Vellach turns NW. to join the Drave, the road passes NE. through a gap in the hills, and enters the level plain that here ex- tends a considerable way S. of the Drare. A small lake is passed near Gosselsdorf, and thence the road runs due N. to Kiihnsdorf. By a rivulet S. of that vil- lage the botanist may gather Leersia oryzoides, not included by Herr v. Josch in his ' Catalogue of the Carinthian Flora.' Ascent of the Ovir. The Ovir (7,001'), which rises W. of Kappel in the form of a tolerably regular cone, is a moun- tain offering many attractions to the geologist and the botanist, and the ad- vantage of good shelter for the night at the ' Knappenhaus ' called Osterz, only 312 ft. below the summit of the moun- tain. For those who merely seek a panoramic view, this mountain is not so well situated as those in the main range of the Karawankas. The moun- tain is best known in Carinthia on account of its lead mine, which is worked by numerous shafts, all at a considerable elevation. Among other rare plants the botanist finds here Arabis ovirensis, Alyssum Wulfenianum, GentianaFrochlichia7ia, and Eritrichmm nanum ; the malacologist may collect Helix phalerata and //. ovirensis; while the entomologist will find a still larger variety of local and peculiar species. The mineralogist is no less gratified by finding several rare minerals, specimens of which may usually be purchased on the spot. The geologist also may avail himself of the numerous mining shafts to obtain a more complete knowledge of the relations of the carboniferous and triassie beds that make up the greater part of the mountain. Besides all these attractions for the cultivators of natural science, the 0\\v is known to the student Q Q of physics as one of the few points in the Alpine chain where reliable meteoro- logical observations have been regularly made for a considerable period. The instruments are placed at the Osterz, 6,689 ft. above the sea, and have been observed tlrree times daily since the year 1846. For many purposes these observations are far more instructive than those made at the Hospice of the St. Bernard, where the climate is af- fected by the surrounding masses of the snowy Pennine Alps, and where no comparison can be made with a mode- rately near station in the plain countn^, as is here practicable in regard to Klagen- furt. Taking the mean results of 18 years' observations, the following results in degrees of Fahrenheit's scale (un- fortunately still preferred by English readers), may be of some interest : — Ellagen- Differ- Osterz furt ence Mean of year . . .33°-87 45°-4-3 ll°-.56 Coldest month (Jan.) 20°-30 21°-20 0°-90 Hottest month (Jnly) 49°'77 65°-97 16"-2 The easiest way to the summit of the Ovir is from Kappel, passing along the eastern ridge of the mountain. If bound for Klagenfurt, the traveller may descend due N. to Gallizien, a village near the Drave, only about 4 m. from the rly. station at Grafenstein. It is also not difficult to descend on the S. side of the mountain into the Ebriach- thal, whose torrent flows eastward to join the Vellach close to Kappel. Through the latter glen a path leads nearly due W,, along a trough in the mountains on the N. side of the Ko- schutta range, and leads to the mining village of Waidisch, where accommoda- tion may be foimd at the house of the director (Bergverweser). The Ebriach - thai, and most of the valleys of this district, were covered with fine forests, but of late years the axe has effected sad havoc. The geologist may make an excursion southward, through a narrow defile traversed by a torrent that joins the Ebriach, to the enclosed basin of Trbgem, quite shut in by mountains, once covered- with pine 594 SOUTH-EASTERN ALPS. § 64. KARAWANKAS AND SULZBACHER ALPS. forest, now partly stripped by the wood-cutter. These are composed of rocks belonging to the Gailthal series. A pretty little chiirch in this retired spot was built by a wealthy farmer, whose house is near at hand, and who has founded a permanent endowment for a chaplain. EOTTTE D. CILLI TO SULZBACH, BY THE SAXXTHAL. PASSES LEADING TO SULZBACH. Prassberg Laufen Leutschdorf Sulzbach . Austrian miles . 4 . 2^ . n . li Eng. miles 19 11^ 9i 4.3f aood road as far as Laufen. Rough foot- | path between Leutschdorf and Sulzbach. A ! post-carriage plies daily between Cilli and i Prassberg. I The route here described is the i easiest course for reaching the centre of i the group of the Sulzbacher Alps, whose j highest peaks (excepting the Grrintoiiz) j surround the little village of Sulzbach. I These mountains had attracted but I little f.ttention until lately, and it seems as if the German, English, and French writers who have been the ei\rliest to direct the attention of their respective countrymen to this district, have ex- perienced the usual difficidty of judging ealmly objects that are invested ^vith the charm of novelty : and the writer is bound to say that the work by Messrs. Gilbert and Churchill, so often referred to in the latter chapters of this work, here fails to convey accurate impres- sions. "Wherever the designation ' Cal- dron of the Steiner Alp' may have originated, and "whether it be applied specifically to the Logarthal, or col- lectively, as in the work just referred to, to the narrow valley of the Sann at Siikbach, with the three Alpine glens that supply the chief sources of that stream, it appears to the writer likely to mislead the ordinary reader. If intended as equivalent to the German term ' kessel,' applied by many writers to every enclosed valley or hollow in a mountain country, it may serve for the Logarthal in common with 100 other upland glens in the Eastern Alps ; but the word ' basin,' usually adopted, seems adequate, and gives a far truer conception of the proportion usually existing between the height and breadth of such hollows. But to use the name ' Caldi-on ' (in a figurative sense) for a group of mountain glens that could acquire no likeness, however remote, to that object, save by removing the vast ridges and buttresses that fill the in- terior space, will certainly not tend to convey to a stranger clear conceptions of the structure of the country. Even though the writer should be constrained in the following pages to pitch his description of this district in a rather lower key than that of his predecessors, it is not the less true that it contains some charming and ever-grand scenes ; and as the village of Sulzbach is con- nected with the adjoining provinces of Carinthia and Carniola by numerous easy passes noticed below, the traveller commencing a tour in the Eastern Alps cannot do better than make his start from Cilli by the present Rte. Between Cilli and Steinbriick the rly. follows the course of the Sann (Rte. Ai in a direction somewhat W. of S. Above Cilli the course of that stream for many miles is nearly due E. The road lead- ing to Laufen keeps nearly at a level at KOUTE D. — LEUTSCIIDORF. 595 Bonie distance from the 1. bank. [' 2- horse carriage from Cilli to Laufen in 4^ hours, 12 gulden.'] The hills that rise on either side draw near to the stream at the confluence of the Paak (Rte. F), and the road runs NW. along the 1, bank of the Sann to Frassberg (1,037'), a small placp, with an inn well recommended. Here the road, following upward the course of the Saun, turns for some distance to SW., but a few miles farther returns to its normal NW. direction. Through the considerable lateral valley of the Drieth, which drains the hilly district S. of the Sann, lies a road to Stein in Carniola, noticed below. Passing a little S. of Eietz, and near a large convent, formerly belonging to the Jesuits, the good road comes to an end at Laufen (\Ybad. Liubno), a small place with three rough inns. Be3'ond this there is nothing but a rough cart-track leading to Leutschdorf ; and the travel- ler does much better to walk, especially as the footpath, which soon crosses to the rt. bank, is pi^ettier and more shaded than the cart-track. Tlie mountains on either side of the valley begin to assume bolder proportions. The Trauneck on the N. side attains 5,350 ft. Here porphyry, which also shows in several places nearer the main group of the Sulzbacher Alps, makes its appearance. On the S. side of the valley is the Bogazbei-g (5,096'). The people of this valley appear to a stranger inferior in general intelligence to their Wendish countrymen in Carniola. Their system of agriculture is singularly wasteful and barbarous, involving at the same time the gradual destruction of the forests, and the exhaustion of the arable land. Between Prassberg and Laufen the river describes a curve convex to the S. ; beyond Laufen it curves exactly in the opposite direction, and the traveller comes abruptly on the village of Leutschdorf (1,734'), called in Wen- dish Lutsche, standing at the junction of the Leutschbach with the Sann. It has a very fair country inn (bei Ma- theuz). Here the Sann issues from the fine defile through which it has de- scended SE. from Sulzbach, and turns abruptly to NE. after passing its con- fluence with the Leutschbach. The position of Leutschdorf is picturesque. It stands at the E. base of the Oistrua (7,701'), one of the highest and most massive peaks of the Sulzbacher group. It may be ascended from this side, or from Sulzbach, and is probably the best point for a general view of the group. An easier expedition, which may be undertaken equally well from Laufen or Leutschdorf, is the ascent of the Ra- ducha (6,730'). This summit, which comes into view below Laufen, rises NE. of the Oistriza, at the opposite side of the defile leading to Sulzbach. The naturalist who wishes to have abundant time on the mountain may sleep at the house of a farmer named Michael Kleuntz, nearly 3 hrs. from Laufen. The summit is reached in 2^ hrs. more. As in the Julian Alps, the traveller cannot count on finding water on the mountains of this district. The defile of the Sann between Leutschdorf and Sulzbach offers very picturesque and even striking scenery, but is not on so grand a scale as might be supposed from some descriptions. In many places it will recall the old path leading from St. Laurent du Pont to the Grande Chartreuse in Dttuphine, before the new road removed all the difficulty and some of the picturesqueness of the way. No scenes here rival in grandeur the Pischenzathal and other interior valleys of the Julian Alps. Por a short way the track lies along the rt. bank of the Sann, crossing to the opposite side as the mountains begin to close together. Before long the foot-path, which is un- necessarily rough, as a tolerable track might easily be made, begins to climb the slope on the rt., and thenceforwajd, through the narrowest part of the defile, is carried up and down along the steep broken declivity of a lofty buttress of the Eaducha that immediately overlooks the torrent. The traveller will be mis- led if, noticing here and there the track of horses and even wheels on level 536 SOUTH-EASTERN ALPS. S G4. KARAWANKAS AND SULZBACHER ALPS. ground on the side of the Saun, he be tempted to descend to seek a passage in that direction. The fact is that when tlie waters are low the country people sometimes ride through the defile, or even drive their light carts that way, , iu great part through the bed of the stream, but here and there on fiat ground at either side, till they rejoin the path when the narrowest part has been passed. None but a native can know when it is practicable to take that course, or when there is not risk of •encountering floating logs of timber, which in such a position might be a source of real danger. At the very naiTOwest part of the defile the path passes through a cleft, only a few feet broad, between the mass of the moun- tain and a detached pinnacle of rock, from which apparently this place is known as the Sulzhacher Nadel — in Wendish, Iffla. Immediately after tra- versing this gap the path descends to the Sann. Xear the bank of the stream is an ebbing and fiowing well, which is pointed out to strangers as one of the wonders of this district. In sitmmer the water rises for 8 niin., and ebbs for about 5 min. The way follows the rt. bank till after it has passed the opening of a fine glen that runs deep into the mass of the Oistriza. After returning to the 1. bank for a short distance the traveller recrosses the Sann, and in 2 lirs. from Leutschdorf reaches Sulzhach ^2,116'). the only village of the upper valley, with an inn which, though small, supplies very fair accom- modation. There are two good rooms, each containing two beds, and under or- dinary circumstances there isno occasion for appealing to the hospitality of the Pfarrherr, who may, however, be con- sulted with advantage by a stranger wishing to explore the neighbourhood. It. is difficult, and sometimes impossible, to find a guide speaking German; but a person moderately used to mountain walking may do very well without as- sistance. The ' Meissner,' w^ho speaks German, knows the ordinary paths, and can give local infoiTnation, bat he is often fully engaged in his trade. The indispensable excursion is that to the head of the Logarthal, and the way is easily found by attention to the hints given below. The path ascends gently along the Sann amidst very charming scenery, at first by the right bank ; but after about | hr. it crosses to the opposite side of the stream. Sulz- bach contains few houses, and in summer the adult population is nearly all engaged on the surrounding moun- tains, but the traveller will be surprised to observe a large number of substantial farm-houses standing in the midst of cornfields on the broad ridges that en- close the valley on the N. and XW. sides. The large farmers appear to form in this part of .Styria a sort of peasant aristocracy, as in the Pinzgau, exhibiting all the indications of mate- rial comfort and relative wealth, with- out much progress in education. In ^ hr. from Sulzbach the traveller finds himself opposite to the opening of the beautiful glen of the Logarthal. This is an oblong basin, stretching southward about 5 m. with an average breadth of nearly 1 m. The nearly level fioor rises only about 200 ft. from the opening to the southern end of the glen. This is enclosed by a steep range of dolomite summits connecting the Oistriza with the Einka, without any considerable inter- mediate depression. The middle portion of the glen, however, is flanked by proj ect- ing buttressf>s from the two mountains above named, for the most part clad with forest, and only here and there showing some projecting crag. The scenery may be compared with that of the Sextenthal, the valley of Auronzo, and some other interior valleys of the Cadore Alps ; but the scale is alto- gether smaller, and the peaks are far from rivalling the sublime daring of their S. Tyrolese rivals. A mill stands at the junction of the main branch of the Sann, issuing from the Logarthal, with the Giessbach de- scending from the Jeserathal, further mentioned below. The traveller crosses ROUTE D. RINKA WATERFALL. r)0: a bridge, and follows a good cart-road, rery soon reaching the fann of the Logarbauer. A massive whitewashed dwelling-house, and extensive farm- buildings, announce the local importance of the Wendish yeoman who gives his name to the glen. Near at hand the waters, that have flowed underground from the upper end of the Logarthal, burst out in an abundant stream, form- ing the main source of the Sann. About 10 min. farther is a rude place of en- tertainment, the Wirthshaus ' beim An- dere,' where tolerable wine, good bread (as usual in Styria), and eggs, sxipply luncheon. The host speaks only Wen- dish, but his eldest daughter serves as interpreter. In an adjoining shed two rough beds may serve a traveller wish- ing to attempt the ascent of the Rinka, probably the second in height of the Sulzbacher Alps, and not yet ascended. It may probably be best attacked from the N. side. A general rule for the mountaineer — to close well the gates through which he passes — should be carefully observed here. Negligence in this respect, too common amongst tra- vellers and guides, may cause grievous j inconvenience to the natives. whose cattle stray far and wide, and bring on the traveller the ill-will of an entire valley. The rival of the Logarbauer is the Plessniggbauer, who divides the so- vereignty of this secluded corner of the Alps. The large group of buildings connected with his farm stands 2,558 ft. above the sea, \ hr. above the wayside public-house. Here the track enters the pine forest, and (in 1867) the tra- veller enjoyed the welcome shade for a distance of about a mile ; but wood- cutters and charcoal-burners were plying their trade, and v,-ill soon lay this bare, as they have already denuded a large part of the upper valley. Beyond the wood cart-tracks cross, but the traveller will not hesitate to choose the middle track nearly due S, This presently forks, and the left-hand track is pre- ferred. Another fork, and again the traveller keeps to the left ; but at a third fork the right-hvmd path is taken, and the very rough cart-tra-'k is left to go to a large camp of char-'oal- burners. In case of doubt, the enquiry ' Cjesta na zlap?' (orthography uncer- tain) wiU serve to ask the way to the waterfall. At length the traveller reaches a little green expanse of pas- ture at the foot of the Baha, which appears to be the highest summit in the range connecting the Oistriza with the Einka, and but little lower than the former. Hitherto the course has varied little from due S., but it now turns WSW., to reach the farthest re- cess of the glen, where the overpraised Rinka Waterfall tumbles down the face of a cliff of dolomite limestone. Al- though in ordinary summer weather the waterfall is a paltry driblet, the scenery is really fine and striking. It has suf- fered grievous injustice by tlie com- parison with the matchless Cirque of G-avarni, first made by M. Eoue, the eminent French geologist. Instead of forming a nearly complete amphi- theatre, the rocks here make a curve scarcely amounting to a third of a circle ; they do not reach half the height ; and the waterfall, described as springing over the cliff to a depth of 1,000 ft., is certainly not 400 ft. in height. The scene no more equals the grandeur of Gavarni, than the valley between the village of Gavarni and the 'Cirque' can rival the beauty of th« way from Sulzbach-to the head of the Logarthal. The so-oalled Rinka Fall does not come directly from the peak of that mountain, but from a plateau, or upland basin, that extends back a con- siderable distance from the verge of the cliffs to the true peak of the Einka. This plateau is reached by a steep sheep track, that mounts some way on the south sitle of the waterfall. Amongst oth(.^r objects of interest to the botanist, CamiKina'a Zoyiii descends below the level of 3,000. ft. about the head of the Logarthal. To obtain a good ^■iew of the glen, and the siirrounding peaks, the traveller ciinnot do better than ascend to the Schkaria Pass, leading to Stein, further noticed below. nUS SOL'TlI-EASTEIiN ALPS. § C-i. KARAWAXKAS AND SULZBACIIER ALPS. Pa.sses leading from Siilzhach. It has appeared most convenient to group together the various passes leading from Sulzbach northward and west- ward into Carinthia, or southward into Carniola. 1. To ScJivmrzenhacli about 4 hrs. As SchwarzenLach (Rte. F) is only about 7 m. distant from the Prevali station on the rly. between Ivlagenfurt and ]VIarburg, this is the shortest way for a traveller bound for the valley of the Drave. The way lies IsE. from Sulzbach over the ridge connecting the Eai-lucha Avith the Uschowa (6,319'). There are two moderately frequented passes over that ridge. The lower, called Wistrasattd (4,252'), lies nearest to the Eaducha, and the path descends through a rather sinuous glen, passing the hamlet of Wistra, and entering the valley of the ^Nliss, close to Schwarzen- bach. The more western pass, called Koprdnermttd (4,415'), is a little more direct, and passes near to the Uschowa, the ascent of which may be made by the way. The path descends directly to Koprein, a small place in the Missthal, nearly 6 m. above Schwarzenbach. 2. To Kap2)ci. The ridge extending along the N. side of the valley W. of the Uschova is broad and flat topped, cultivated nearly to the summit, and covered with scattered farmhouses. On the Sulzbach side is the hamlet and church of Heiligengeist, and on the opposite that of St. Leonhard. Though a little higher than the others, this appears to be the easiest of the passes leading from Sulzbad into Carinthia. A tolerable cart-road leads over the ridge from the N. end of the Logarthal to Kappel ; but it is so steep that few will attempt to pass that way in a vehicle, and in going on foot from Sulz- bach it involves a detour of more than ^ hr. The direct way mounts by the little church of Heiligengeist, sending in the midst of a few scattered farm- houses, and on reaching the brow of the hill the traveller should turn round to enjoy the fine view of the Logarthal and the. surrounding mountains. Cul- tivation extends beyond the level of 4,000 ft., and the summit of the ridge is covered with forest, save where this has been levelled by the relentless woodcutter, The St. Leoiihard Sattcl (4,666') is reached in 2 hrs. from Sidz- bach, and a short descent leads to a I green slope whereon stands the hamlet I of St. Leonhard, with a little church I commanding an extensive view to the I N. and E., not nearly so striking as that on the opposite side of the ridge. The descent to Kappel is easy, and the way can scarcely be missed in clear weather. About 3i hrs. suffice to reach that place from Sulzbach. I 3, To Bad Vcllach. The pass leading 1 from Sulzbach to Bad Vellach is here I called for convenience Vellacher Saitel ! (4,411'), but has, doubtless, a local Wendish name which the writer has been xmable to procure. The traveller ^ pressed for time may easily combine a visit to the head of the Logarthal with I this or the last pass in one moderate ! day's walk. From the bridge at the ] opening of the Logarthal the cart-track, I which is that m.entioned above leading ! to Kappel, mounts westward along the Giessbach, throuffh a little defile. In taking this way from the Logarthal it is a slight short-cut to mount somewhat j by a path behind the house of the Lo- I garbauer ; this is carried some way at a level along a paling, and drops into the track at the lower end of the defide of the Giessbach. This stream flows from the Jeserathal, a short upland glen ori- ginating at the N. basp of the Einka, runs some way parallel to the Logarthal, and then turns eastward to join the Sann. The tradition that the head of the Jeserathal was formerly a lake is somewhat confirmed by the fact that ' Jesera ' in Wendish means laJce. Xear the point Avhere the Giessbach issues from the Jeserathal the Kappel road crosses to the 1. bank, and soon begins to ascend southward. The pedestrian going to Vellach follows it for some dis- tance, till it begins to turn SE. and wind up a steep slope towards a large and conspicuous farmhouse. He leaves ROUTE E. — SCHKAKIA PASS. 599 the road at the turn and begins to mount by a rather steep cattle-track. Going this way without a guide, he may be somewhat embarrassed by the variety of paths that he must encounter; but he will not go far wrong if he remem- bers that the pass to A^ellach lies due W. of the defile of the Giessbach, but that his course makes a considerable circuit northward in order to attain a point nearly as high as the pass, and then winds nearly at a level above a deep bay that extends westward from the opening of the Jeserathal. Por about 1 hour the ascent is tolerably steep and continuous, passing several farmhouses. From the highest (that of the Zangbauer?) a fine view is gained of the Eaducha, Oistriza, and other neigh- bouring peaks. The latter part of the way is partly through forest. On reaching the crest of the ridge, which commands a fine view westward towards the Koschutta, Ovir, and other summits of the Karawankas, the traveller, instead of descending straight before him, turns sharply to the 1., descending some 60 or 80 ft. along the ridge in order to reach the actual pass, 2j hrs.' moderate walk- ing from Sulzbach. A very rough track for charcoal-carts, in places ex- tremely steep, leads down towards the Vellacherthal, which is reached at a point fully 1 m. below the baths. On approaching the valley the pedestrian gladly abandons the rough stony track, and drops down a steep slope that leads him to the road at a point nearer to Bad Vellach, which is reached in 1 hr. rather fast walking from the pass. 4. I'o Stein, by the LogartJial mid Schkaria Pass, 7 to 8 hrs.' walking. Unlike the other passes here described this is somewhat difficult, and shoidd not be attempted by a traveller who has not a steady head and a sure foot. A practised mountaineer will scarcely find a guide indispensable. In point of scenery, it is by far the fi.nest and wild- est pass in this district. The pass does not lie near the peak of the Oistriza, as asserted in the new edition of Schau- bach, but it is on the W. side of the Baba, the most prominent summit at the S. end of the Logarthal. The way from Sulzbach is the same as that already described to the Einka Waterfall as far as the green level space at the head of the main branch of the Logarthal. The pass, which is a well- marked broad 'sattel,' is well seen on the rt. of the Baba as the traveller as- cends the glen, but the rocks below it appear formidably steep, though inter- rupted at intervals by slopes of fine dolomitic debris lying at a high angle. The key to the pass is found when the traveller observes some black lines crossing diagonally a slope of debris some way below the summit. At one time a tolerably good path Avas made in this direction, and trunks of trees, forming the black lines in question, were laid in such a way as to hold the very slipperj^ debris, and give secure footing to cattle. But the track has been neglected, the timbers have in many places been carried away, and it seems to be very rarely used. Suffi- cient landmarks remain to enable the mountaineer to thread his way up the steep ascent. Among other rare plants the botanist will find Ea7ucnculus Traimfellncri near the summit. Gen- tiana Froehlichkma should be sought for, but was not seen by the writer. On reaching the summit of the Schl-aria Pass (6,198') the traveller overlooks the head of a long valley — called by Prof. Lipoid Feisiritzgraben — drained by one of the many torrents bearing the name Feistritz. The sce- nery of this valley appears to be of a high order; but though visited in 1564 by the Archduke Charles, who seems to have shared in the mountaineering propensity of the House of Habsburg, it is rarely traversed by modern tra- vellers. The Feistritz torrent breaks out at the base of the Orintouz, which rises on the NW. side above the head of the valley. In rather more than 2 hrs. the traveller descends from the pass to the Urschitzalp (2,035'). An easy path leads thence along the Feis- tritz to Stein. A lateral glen on the coo SOUTH-EASTERN ALPS. § 04. KARA^yANKAS AND SULZBACHER ALPS. W, side leads to the Kervauz Vrh (7,260'), sometimes ascended for the sake of the fine view there obtained of the Sulzhacher (here called Steiner) Alps, and the Terglou group. It crowns the S. end of a ridge that projects from The Grintouz, dividing the Ivankerthal from the Feistritz Graben. Stem (l,2oo') — in 'VYendish Kamnek — is a busy little town, connected by a good road with Laybacli (about 14 m.), and by another more picturesque, nin- ning eastward along the base of the mountains, with Mottnig, and thus with Cilli (fully 36 m.). o. To Stein hy LeutscMorf. About 6 hrs. As to this way the writer has no information beyond the fact that an easy foot-path leads from Leutschdorf to a pass at the head of the Leutsch- graben, SSW. of that place, and then passes by the hamlet of Goisd to reach Stein. 6. To Stein, 1/y Oherlmrg and Xeustift . Carriage-road between Stein and Lau- fen. There is little inducement to take this road, as a traveller boirnd for Laybach will either take the easiest way, by Cilli and then by railway, or the more interesting route by Bad Vel- lach, Kauker, and Krainburg. It is M-ell to note, however, that a good car- riage-road ascends from near Laufen in the valley of the Sann to Oherburg (1,206'), a little town with a large showy church, and a castle belonoriug to the Bishopric of Laybach. Following up- wards the stream of the Dricth, the road reaches Xeustift, whose remarkable pilgrimage church contains curious frescoes. From hence the road crosses the ridge of the T6cherniouz (3,017'), and then descends to Stein. EorxE E. CILLI TO UXTER-DEAUBrEG. Most travellers now approach the valley of the Drave by railway, but there are several tolerably direct roads traversing the comparatively low hilly district at the E. end of the Karawankas range. There is here much pretty and varied scenery within a small compass, and a few days may be pleasantly spent in the district briefly noticed in this and the next Kte. In going from Cilli to the Drave, there are only two roads practicable for carriages that traverse the range connecting the Karawankas from the Bacher Gebirge. The eastern- most of these, which runs through the Misslingthal, and marks the western boundary of the Bacher range, is noticed in the present Ete. The other road, running northward from Schwarzenbach through a deep cleft traversed bj- the Miss torrent, is referred to in Kte. F, There are two roads, about equal in length, by which the traveller may go from Cilli to the head of the Misslingthal. The more interesting is apparently that which passes by Weitcnstein (1,322'), a prettily situated place at the S. base of the Bacher mountains, which are di- vided from the triassic hills that form the eastern extremity of the Karawan- kas by a narrow zone of miocene depo- sits. This is one of the best places for excursions into the range of the Bacher Gebirge. This island of granite, girdled by gneiss and crystalline states, rising at the easternmo^t limit of the Alpine region, is in many respects deserving of notice. It forms a small highland region in great part covered with forest, and with summits that rise but little aboA'e the general level. The Vclka Kaj^pa, ROUTE F. — CILLI TO KAPPEL. 601 the highest summit, attains only 5,047 ft. and the others fall somewhat short of 5,000 ft. There are several glass wurks, in which the workmen are said to be all G-ermans ; but the wood-cutters, who form the bulk of the population, consist of people from all the surrounding pro- vinces, including not a few Italians from Friuli. These people live in small scattered hamlets. Numerous pilgrim- age churches call together the inhabi- tants on certain anniversary holidays. The vegetation is scarcely Alpine, but some rare plants have been found here, of which the most notable are Avcna jdanicnlmis and BotrycJdumrutcpfolium. The glen of the Hiidina through which the road ascends WNW. from Weiten- stein, is said to be extremely picturesque. A low, slightly marked ridge divided the head of that stream from that of the Paak ; and near the old castle of Waldeck the road joins the new line from Wollan, noticed in Ete. F, and crosses the Hudina Lukna Pass, dividing the Paak from the Misslmg. The latter stream originates in the Bacher Gebirge, and at the point where it is joined by the road, it enters the head of a lung, nearly straight val- ley, that extends hence to its junction with the Drave close to Unter-Drauburg. The chief place in the Misslingthal is Vi indischgrdtz (Wend. Hradec). Nu- merous ruined castles stand on the adjoining slopes, and contrast with the tokens of manufacturing activity seen throughout this part of Styria. Wind- ischgratz is about 30 m. from Cilli, and in 7 m. more a good road leads the tra- veller to Unter-Drauburg (§ 55, Ete. A). Route F. cllli to kappel, by schwarzenbach. About 30 m. by road to Schwarzenbach— 14 or 15 m. thence to Kappel. The shortest way from Cilli to Schwarzenbach is by a road that runs through the hills NW. of the town to Wollan ; but most travellers prefer the better road that turns aside from the old high-road to Gratz and Vienna at Ho- henegg, about 5 m. N. of the to-wu. This road follows the bank of the Kvdingbach to Keukirchen, at the junction of the lat- ter stream with the Hudina. Along the latter the picturesque road to "Weiten- stein runs nearly due N., while tlie way to Schwarzenbach pursues a tolerably uniform course to WNW. In a recess in the hills behind the village of Lo- ba'7ia, on the N. side of the road, stands Neuhaus (1,244'), about 9 m. from Cilli, a frequented watering-place, with a mineral spring resembling those of Gastein and PfefFers. Strangers are received in one large building (Kui-- haits), and three or four subsidiary houses. The accommodation and the charges, though not low, are reasonable. English travellers will appreciate the advantage of finding a very fair restau- rant, which relieves them from the tyrannical institution of the table dhote at fixed hours. The surrounding hills are well wooded, and many pretty paths are cut through them in various direc- tions. The favourite stroll is to an ancient castle (Schlangenburg ?), whose ruined towers command an extensive view. Eiionymns verrucosus, Scrophu- laria Scojxlii, and other characteristic plants of this district, are common in the neighbourhood. W. of Doberna the road crosses the range of tertiary hills that divide the basin of the Kodingbach from that of the Paak, and reaches the latter stream at Wollan (1,172')— in Wendish, Vcl- hnsJcL This corner of Lower Styria offers every appearance of comfort and prosperity. The land seems to be well 602 SOUTH-EASTERN ALPS. § G4. KARAWAXKAS AND SULZBACHER ALPS. tilled, the houses are substantial, and i in every village the traveller sees neat- • looking inns. [Within the last few ': years a new road has been carried up- , wards from "Wollan through the narrow ; defile of the Paak. Near the head of that stream it joins the road from Weitensteiu (Ete. E\ and affords a tolerably direct way from Cilli to "Win- ^ dischgratz. In the narrowest part of ' the defile is a monument to the late Archduke John, and close to it a con- ; siderable cavern from which a stream 1 flows to join the Paak.] ' The main road runs nearly at a level along the X. side of the stream to Schoyistein, a pretty village on the 1. bank of the Paak. Here that stream, after flowing some miles toward WXW., begins to change its direction, and pre- sently turns aside into a cleft in the hills, through which it flows at first S., and finally SSE., to join the Sann below Pras-^bcrg (Ete. D). A country road, cutting off the angle between the Paak and the Sann, leads directly from .Schonstein to that place. Bianthushar- \ batus is not uncommon hereabouts. For some time before reaching Wollan , the traveller may have observed, beyond an intervening range of lower hills, a large building crowning the summit of a mountain. This is the church on the Ursulaberg (5,563'), a famous place of pilgrimage in the adjoining districts of , Styria and Carinthia. It is built on the very summit of the mountain, on : Lhe boundary between those provinces, ; 60 that the W. entrance is in Carinthia, i and the high altar in Stj-ria. A rather long but not steep ascent i leads from Schonstein over the range of hills that here divide the tributaries of the Save from those of the Drave. The | highest point, near the village of St. j Veit, is 3,806 ft. From the summit of ! the pass a lonir trough extends westward to Kappel, and forms the natural boun- | dary between the eastern end of the | Karawankas and the Sulzbacher Alps, j Following the Javoria torrent, the road | descends to '■ Schwarzmbach, the chief place in tlie ■ Upper Missthal, and the centre of a mining and manufacturing district. Count Thuu, who owns some lead- works, has also a model sheep-farming establishment in the neighbourhood. After here joining the Javoria, the Miss, which originates in the valley W. of Schwarzenbach, turns abruptly north- ward, and flows through a deep cleft in the triassic strata that di\-ides the Ursulaberg from the much loftier mass of the Pefschen (6,926'). Both moun- tains may be ascended from Schwarzen- bach. Two passes leading from that place to Sulzbach are noticed in Ete. D, and it is probable that the Eaducha may also be reached within a day's walk, Nearly all travellers who reach Schwarzenbach from the S. side avail themselves of the good road that fol- lows the course of the Miss, and leads in about 7 m. to the Prevali station on the Klagenfurt rly. (See § 55, Ete. A .) A waj', very interesting to the geolo- gist, goes westward from Schwarzen- bach through the trough between the Petschen range to the N., and that of the Uschowa to the S. From the low watershed, about half-way between Schwarzenbach and Kappel, the chief source of the Missbach descends east- ward, while in the opposite direction a tributary" of the Yellach flows westward to Xappel (Ete. C). Country carts pass that way, but the writer has not learned whether the road is made pass- able for travellers otherwise than on foot. "While the ranges on either side are formed of stratified rocks — Gailthal beds overlaid by Trias — the floor of the valley, or trough, is formed of gra- nite and crystalline schists, with veins of syenite. This disposition would be of common occurrence if the valleys of the Alps were universally formed by erosive action ; but its rarity should inspire caution in those who select one amongst the multitudinous agencies that have operated on the earth's crust, as alone capable of explaining the com- plicated phenomena of great mountain BALUS ALPINE GUIDES, LATEST EDITIONS. Tlie Alpine Guide. By John Ball, M.R.I.A. late Presi- deut of the Alpine Club. Post 8vo. with Maps and other Illustrations, in Three Volumes, as follows : — Tlie Griiide to the Eastern Alps, price 1O5. Qd. The Guide to the Western Alps, including Mont Blanc, Monte Eosa, Zermatt, &c. price 65. 6c?. Guide to the Central Alps, including all the Oberland District, price 75. 6d. Introduction on Alpine Travelling in general, and on the Geology of the Alps, piice Is. Either of the Three Volumes or Parts of the Alpme Giiide may be had with this Intbo- DXJCTioN prefixed, price \s. extra. Tohe had also, for the convenience of Travellers visiting particular Districts, in Ten Sections as follows, each complete in itself, with General and Special Afaps : — THE BESNESE OBERLAJSTD, price 25. 6d. MONT BLANC and MONTE EOSA, price 25. Sd. DAUPHINE and PIEDMONT, from Nice to the Little St. Bernard, price 2*. 6U. NORTH SWITZERLAND, including the Eighi, Zurich, and Lucerne, price 'la. (id. The ST. GOTHARD PASS and the ITALIAN LAKES, price 2.5. Gd. EAST SWITZERLAND, including the Engadine and the Lombard Valleys, price 2s. 6d. NORTH TYROL, the Bavarian and Salzburg Alps, price 2s. 6d. CENTRAL TYROL, including the Gross Glockner, price 2^. 6d. SOUTH TYROL and VENETIAN or DOLOMITE ALPS, pr:ce 26'. 6a!. The STYRIAN, CARNIC, and JULIAN ALPS, price 25. 6d. 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