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'UNIVERSITY
THE CHOCOLATE GIRL- BY LIOTARD.
FROM THE ORIGINAL PAINTINC IN THE DRESDEN GALLERY
COCOA
CHOCOLATE
A SHORT HISTORY OF THEIR
PRODUCTION- AND USE
WITH A FULL AND PARTICULAR ACCOUNT OF THEIR
PROPERTIES, AND OF THE VARIOUS METHODS
OF PREPARING THEM FOR FOOD
Published by
WALTER BAKER & COMPANY
Dorchester, Mass., U.S.A.
17S0-18S6
b i 3
Copyright, 1SS6,
By WALTER BAKER & CO.
3 2.o^T~
press or
BOSTON.
CONTENTS.
Page
Sources of information . . . . vii
I.
Introduction — showing the remarka-
ble INCREASE IN THE CONSUMPTION OF
COCOA AND CHOCOLATE IN GREAT BRIT-
AIN AND THE UNITED STATES ... I
II.
The cacao-tree — where and how cul-
tivated — METHOD OF CURING THE
FRUIT, ETC. .7
III.
Early use of cocoa and chocolate in
mexico, europe, etc. . . . .26
IV.
Properties of the different parts of
the fruit, and of its products . . 45
IV
CONTENTS.
Page
V.
Value of cocoa and chocolate as ar-
ticles OF FOOD, WITH OPINIONS OF THE
MOST EMINENT PHYSICIANS . . . 52
VI.
Cocoa-butter — its purity,
qualities, etc.
HEALING
82
VII.
Receipts
Different methods of preparing drinks
Plain chocolate
Frothed chocolate .
Milled chocolate
Baker's Premium No. i
Baker's vanilla chocolate
Baker's Breakfast cocoa .
Baker's Cocoa-paste
Baker's Eagle French chocolate
German sweet chocolate
Baker's Racahout des Arabes
Baker's broma
Baker's Cocoa-shells
Baker's prepared cocoa .
Baker's Premium cracked cocoa
9>
9i
94
96
97
9 3
98
99
99
99
100
100
100
101
IOI
IOI
CONTENTS.
V
Page
Receipts, continued.
Chocolat au lait (French) . . . 102
Chocolat a Teau
. 102
Spanish chocolate .
. 102
Egg chocolate
. 103
German egg chocolate .
103
Parisian egg chocolate .
. 104
Wine chocolate
106
Chocolate wine
106
Chocolate puddings
. 106
Chocolate mixture .
. Ill
Chocolate cake
. Ill
Chocolate cakes
116
Chocolate macaroons
119
Chocolate tartlets .
119
Chocolate filling for cake
120
Chocolate wafers .
121
Chocolate jumbles .
. 122
Chocolate Eclairs .
123
Chocolate cream puffs .
127
Chocolate blanc-mange .
128
Chocolate custards.
131
Chocolate Bavarian cream
133
Chocolate souffles .
134
Chocolate meringue
136
Chocolate creams .
136
Cream chocolates .
133
VI
CONTENTS.
Page
eipts, continued.
Chocolate fondant ....
138
Chocolate Charlotte Russe .
139
Chocolate custard pies .
140
Chocolate pie (rich)
140
Chocolate ice cream
141
Chocolate cream drops .
M3
Chocolate caramels
144
Cream chocolate caramels .
145
Chocolate candy ....
146
Creme de cacao ....
147
Chocolate parfait amour
147
Bavaroise au chocolat .
148
Chocolate syrup ....
148
Chocolate syrup for soda water .
. 149
Chocolate icing or coating .
150
Chocolate whip
150
Chocolate drops, with nonpareils .
15*
SOURCES OF INFORMATION.
" A New Survey of the West Indies," etc., by
Thomas Gage. 2d edition, London, 1655.
"The Natural History of Chocolate," by a
French Officer; translated by Dr. R. Brookes,
and printed in London, 1730.
"Foods": (International scientific series),
by Dr. Edward Smith, London, 1873.
" The Beverages we Infuse " : Blackwood's
Magazine, v. 75, 1854.
" Physiologie du Gout," by J. Anthelme Bril-
lat-Savarin. New edition, 2 v., Paris.
" Le Cacao et le Chocolat, considered aux
points de vue botanique, chimique, physiolo-
gique, agricole, commercial, industrial et eco-
nomique." Par Arthur Mangin, Paris, 1862.
" A Practical Treatise on the Analysis of Tea,
Coffee, Cocoa, Chocolate, etc.," by J. Alfred
Wanklyn, Public Analyst, etc., London, 1874.
Vlll SOURCES OF INFORMATION.
" McCulloch's Dictionary of Commerce and
Commercial Navigation," London, 1882.
" Spon's Encyclopaedia of the Industrial Arts,"
etc., Div. II., London, 1880.
" Encyclopaedia Britannica," 9th edition, Arti-
cle " Cocoa."
Lecture on " Chocolate," before the Sheffield
Scientific School, New Haven, 1881, by Pro-
fessor Daniel C. Eaton.
"A Manual of Hygiene," prepared especially
for use in the medical service of the army, by
Edmund A. Parkes, M.D., F.R.S., London, 1864.
" A Treatise on Hygiene and Public Health,"
edited by Albert H. Buck, M.D., New York, 1879.
The "Cantor" Lectures on Food, by H.
Letheby, London, 1872.
" Cocoa," by John R. Jackson. " Nature,"
v. 2, 1S70.
"Adulterations of Food," by Rowland J.
Atcheriy, Ph.D., London, 1874.
" Lectures on Diet and Regimen," by A. F.
M. Willick, M.D., 3d edition, London, 1801.
Paper on "Chocolate," in the " Annales de
Physique et de Chimie," by M. Boussingault,
member of the French Institute.
11 History of American Manufactures," by J.
L. Bishop.
SOURCES OF INFORMATION. IX
Reports on Commerce and Navigation, and
Consular Reports, United States and Great
Britain.
Works on Cookery, by Maria Parloa, Pierre
Caron, Pierre Blot, Mrs. M. F. Henderson,
Marion Harland, Flora Neely, Matilda Lees
Dods, Mrs. Blair, Sara T. Paul; also, the
" Confectioner's Journal," " The Dessert Book,"
" Choice Receipts," etc.
COCOA AND CHOCOLATE.
m
CONSUMPTION,
DURING the last half-century the con-
sumption of cocoa in various forms
has increased to an extraordinary extent,
both in this country and Great Britain.
This is due to several causes, among the
most prominent of which are, (i) a reduc-
tion in the retail price, which brings it
within the means of the poorer classes 5(2)
a more general recognition of the value of
cocoa as an article of diet, and (3) im-
provements in methods of preparation, by
which it is adapted to the wants of differ-
ent classes of consumers.
Z COCOA AND CHOCOLATE.
There is no doubt that, if it had not
been for the monopoly of the production
which Spain long possessed, and which
kept the price, on its first introduction
into England, at a point where only the
rich could afford to buy it, cocoa would
have come into as general use there as it
did in Spain, and would, perhaps, have
been received with more favor than tea cr
coffee, which were introduced about the
same time.
It appears that, in the time of Charles
II., the price of the best chocolate (very
crude, undoubtedly, as compared with
the present manufactures), was 6s. 8d. a
pound, which, if we take into account the
greater purchasing power of money at that
time, would be equal to at least $5 a pound
at this time for a coarse compound.
Humboldt estimated the consumption of
cocoa in Europe, in 1806, at 23,000,000
pounds per annum, of which from 6,000,000
to 9,000,000 were supposed to be consumed
CONSUMPTION. 3
in Spain. From the latest official returns of
imports and consumption in the principal
countries it appears that over 70,000,000
pounds are now used. France heads the
list with 26,750,250 pounds ; Spain comes
next, with 16,450,000; England consumes
13,966,512; the Netherlands, 5,475,000;
Germany, about 3,250,000, and Belgium,
1,245.000. The United States stands next
to Great Britain in the list of consumers,
the amount of crude cocoa entered for con-
sumption last year being about 8,500,000
pounds. The returns of exportations from
the countries in which the article is pro-
duced are so incomplete that it is im-
possible to state definitely the total amount
exported ; but it is probably not far
from 80,000,000 pounds per annum.
Reckoning the consumption in the coun-
tries where it is raised at not less than
20,000,000 pounds, it may safely be as-
sumed that the total annual product does
not fall short of 100,000,000 pounds.
4 COCOA AND CHOCOLATE.
While the average price of the raw prod-
uct has steadily increased during the last
thirty years (from 47s. per cwt., between
1854-60, to 74s. between 1881-84 1 ), the
retail price of the prepared cocoa has
fallen. This is due to improvements in
machinery and methods of handling, and
to the sharp competition between the lead-
ing manufacturers.
In 1820 the quantity of cocoa entered for
home consumption in the United Kingdom
of Great Britain and Ireland was only
267,321 pounds; in 1884 it amounted to
13,966,512 pounds of crude cocoa, and
1,033,173 pounds of chocolate, — in all
about 15,000,000 pounds, an increase of
5,500 per cent, in sixty-four years. The
population, in the meantime, had increased
only 73^ per cent. ; the use of tea had in-
creased only 457 per cent., and of coffee
only 356 per cent. During the last twenty-
1 Mulhall's (English) Price Lists.
CONSUMPTION.
five years the consumption of cocoa and its
products in the United Kingdom has in-
creased about 230 per cent. The con-
sumption per inhabitant is about 6 3 /s oz.
In the United States the increased con-
sumption in recent years has been no less
striking. The amount of cocoa retained
for home consumption in i860 was only
1,181,054 pounds ; in 1885 it was 8,426,787
pounds (that is, cocoa, crude cocoa and
shells, not including chocolate, which is
classed, in the official returns of imports,
under the general head of u farinaceous
articles"), — an increase of 614 per cent,
in twenty-five years. The population in-
creased during that period less than 60 per
cent. The consumption of tea increased
153 per cent., and of coffee 196 per cent.
In view, therefore, of the great and
constantly increasing use of this product,
its properties and supply become questions
of the highest economic and hygienic im-
portance. For the purpose of satisfying
6 COCOA AND CHOCOLATE.
the desire for information upon a subject
which is of such general interest we have
collected, from the most authentic sources,
such facts in relation to the growth of
the cacao-tree, the preparation of its fruit for
the market, and the value of the different
preparations for dietary purposes, as may
serve to increase the common stock of
knowledge in regard to one of the staple
articles of food.
THE CACAO-TREE.
II.
THE CACAO-TREE.
THE term " Cocoa" is a corruption of
" Cacao," but is almost universally
used in English-speaking countries. The
cacao-tree belongs to the natural order of
Sterculiaceae, — a family of about 41 gen-
era and 521 species, inhabiting the warmer
regions of the world. None of them grow
naturally in our climate, or in Europe,
and, excepting the little yellow-flowered
Mahernie, they are very seldom seen in our
conservatories.
The cacao-tree can be cultivated in suit-
able situations within the 25th parallels of
latitude. It flourishes best, however, with-
in the 15th parallels, at elevations varying
from near the sea-level up to about 2,000
feet in height. The following table con-
8
COCOA AND CHOCOLATE.
tains the principal species, the places where
grown, and the commercial name : —
Botanical Name.
Theobroma
angustifolia ,
T. bicolor . .
T. Cacao (sati-
va) . . . .
Where Grown. Commercial Name.
Mexico.
Brazil . . .
New Granada,
Australia,
Bourbon,
Ceylon,
Cuba,
Dominico,
Guadaloupe,
Guatemala .
Guinea . .
Hayti,
India,
Jamaica,
Java,
Madagascar,
Martinique,
Mauritius,
Philippines,
St. Croix,
St. Lucia,
St. Vincent,
Trinidad,
Maranhan.
Bahia.
Magdalena.
The name of
each country.
Central Amer-
ican.
African.
The name of
each country.
THE CACAO-TREE.
Botanical Name.
T. Cacao (sati-
va.)
T. glauca.
T. Guyanensis,
T. microcarpa,
T. ovalifolia
T. speciosa . .
T. sylvestris .
Where Grown.
> Venezuela .
Cayenne
Surinam.
J Ecuador
} Peru . .
Mexico .
Brazil .
Brazil .
Jamaica .
Commercial Name.
^ Maracaibo.
' l Caracas.
. Berbice.
Surinam.
. Esmeralda.
. Guayaquil.
Soconusco.
Para.
Besides the above-mentioned species,
distinguished by botanists, T. Cacao,
which is the most widely and largely cul-
tivated, is divided by cocoa-planters into
several varieties, the differences observed
being due to the long-continued influences
of varied climates, soils and modes of cult-
ure. The best of these is the Creole (or
Criollo of the Spanish inhabitants of South
America). The pods are small; but the
nuts are thick, short, and almost globular,
pale crimson in color, and of slightly bitter
but agreeable flavor. This variety is
10 COCOA AND CHOCOLATE.
becoming scarce, chiefly through the bad
policy of replacing decayed trees by in-
ferior specimens. The next variety is the
For aster o, the best kinds of which are the
Cundeamar, of two descriptions, one with
yellow, the other with red pods. The
former is the better, containing large seeds
which, in color and the ease with which
they are fermented, resemble the Criollo.
The third variety is the Amelonado ; and
the fourth and lowest is the Calabacillo,
whose seeds are small, bitter, and of a dark
crimson color.
All the varieties except the Criollo,
which is probably confined to Venezuela,
are known collectively as Trinitario, or
" Trinidad," — the best being but little in-
ferior to Criollo in the matter of quality,
and superior on the score of fruitfulness.
Hence Trinidad forms the principal nursery
from which plants or seeds are procured
for new plantations.
The various kinds of cocoa may be
THE CACAO-TREE. 11
placed in about the following order of
merit: Soconusco (Mexico) and Esmeralda,
(Ecuador), mostly, it is said, consumed at
home ; Caracas and Puerto Cabello (Vene-
zuela) ; Trinitario ; Magdalena and Car-
thagena, New Granada ; Para ; Bahia. 1
The British West Indies appear to take
the lead among the producers for exporta-
tion ; Ecuador stands second, Venezuela
third, and Brazil fourth. The larger part
of the Brazilian crop goes to France ; and
the larger part of the Ecuadorian to
Spain.
A French officer who served in the West
Indies for a period of fifteen years, during
the early part of the last century, wrote, as
the result of his personal observations, a
treatise on "The Natural History of Choco-
late, being a distinct and particular Account
of the Cacao-Tree, its Growth and Culture,
1 Spon's Encyclopaedia, etc., Div. II.
12 COCOA AND CHOCOLATE.
and the Preparation, Excellent Properties,
and Medicinal Virtues of its Fruit," which
received the approbation of the Regent of
the Faculty of Medicine at Paris, and
which was translated and published in
London in 1730*
From this rare and valuable little work
the following extracts are made : —
" The cacao-tree almost all the year
bears fruit of all ages, which ripens suc-
cessively, but never grows on the end of
little branches, as our fruits in Europe do,
but along the trunk and chief boughs,
which is not rare in these countries, where
several trees do the like. Such an unusual
appearance would seem strange in the eyes
of Europeans, who have never seen any-
thing of that kind ; but, if one examines
the matter a little, the philosophical reason
of this disposition is very obvious. One
may easily apprehend that if nature had
placed such bulky fruit at the ends of the
branches their great weight must necessa-
THE CACAO-TREE. 13
rily break them, and the fruit would fall
before it came to maturity.
u The fruit is contained in a husk, or shell,
which, from an exceedingly small begin-
ning, attains in the space of four months to
the bigness and shape of a cucumber. The
lower end is sharp, and furrowed length-
wise like a melon. This shell in the first
months is either red or -white, or a mixture
of red and yellow. This variety of colors
makes three sorts of cacao-trees, which
have nothing else to distinguish them but
this. ... If one cleaves one of these shells
lengthways it will appear almost half an
inch thick, and its capacity full of choco-
late kernels^ the intervals of which, before
they are ripe, are filled with a hard white
substance, which at length turns into a
mucilage of a very grateful acidity. For
this reason it is common for people to take
some of the kernels with their covers and
hold them in their mouths, which is mighty
refreshing, and proper to quench thirst.
14 COCOA AND CHOCOLATE.
But they take heed of biting them, because
the films of the kernels are extremely bitter.
" When one nicely examines the inward
structure of these shells, and anatomizes,
as it were, all their parts, one shall find
that the fibres of the stalk of the fruit pass-
ing through the shell are divided into
five branches ; that each of these branches
is subdivided into several filaments, every
one of which terminates at the larger end
of these kernels, and altogether resembles
a bunch of grapes, containing from twenty
to thirty-five single ones, or more, ranged
and placed in an admirable order. When
one takes off the film that covers one of the
kernels the substance of it appears, which
is tender, smooth, and inclining to violet
color, and is seemingly divided into several
lobes, though in reality they are but two ;
but very irregular and difficult to be disen-
gaged from each other."
An interesting supplement to this de-
THE CACAO-TREE. 15
scription of the product in the West Indies,
written more than a century and a half ago,
will be found in the following report, made
last year to the State Department at Wash-
ington, by the U.S. Consul at La Guayra,
in relation to the cultivation of cocoa in
Venezuela, where the choicest variety of
the exported product, the Caracas, is
raised : —
44 The tree grows to the average height of
thirteen feet, and from five to eight inches
in diameter, is of spreading habit and
healthy growth, and, although requiring
much more care and attention than the
coffee-tree, yet its equally reliable crops
require comparatively little labor in prop-
erly preparing for the market.
44 . . . There are two varieties of the
cocoa-tree cultivated in Venezuela, known
as El Criollo and El Trinitario, respec-
tively, the former of which, though not so
prolific nor as early fruiting as the latter,
is yet superior to it in size, color, sweet-
16 COCOA AND CHOCOLATE.
ness, and oleaginous properties of the fruit,
and in the fact that it always finds ready
sale, while the latter is often dull or neg-
lected. The difference in price of the two
varieties is also marked, the former being
quoted at $28 to $30 per fanega (no
pounds), while the latter commands ap-
proximately half that price.
u While coffee can be successfully culti-
vated under a temperature of 60 degrees
F., the cocoa-tree, for proper development
and remunerative crops, requires a tem-
perature of 80 degrees F. ; hence the area
of the cocoa belt is comparatively re-
stricted, and the cocoa-planter presumably
has not to fear the fierce competition that
he has encountered in the cultivation of
cotton and coffee. Besides the condition
of temperature above stated, this crop
needs a moist soil and humid atmosphere,
and so the lands along the coast of the
Caribbean sea, sloping from the mountain-
tops to the shore, bedewed* by the exha-
THE CACAO-TREE. 17
lations of the sea and irrigated by the
numerous rivulets that course down the
valleys, are found to be, in all respects,
well adapted to the profitable cultivation
of cocoa. And while the lands in the
interior possessing facilities for irrigation
may be said to be equally as good for
the purpose, yet the absence of roads, and
the consequently difficult transportation of
produce on the backs of donkeys over
rugged mountain paths, materially reduce
the profits on the crop before it reaches
the market.
" A cocoa plantation is set in quite the
same manner as an apple-orchard, except
that the young stalks may be transplanted
from the nursery after two months' growth.
No preparation of the soil is deemed neces-
sary, and no manures are applied. The
young trees are planted about fifteen feet
equidistant, which will accommodate two
hundred trees to the acre. Between rows,
and at like spaces, are planted rows of the
18 COCOA AND CHOCOLATE.
Bucare, a tree of rapid growth, that serves
to shade the soil as well as to shield the
young trees from the torrid sun. Small
permanent trenches must be maintained
from tree to tree throughout the entire
length of the rows, so that, at least once
in the week, the stream, descending from
the mountains, may be turned into these
little channels and bear needful moisture
to trees and soil. At the age of five years
the plantation begins to bear fruit, and
annually yields two crops, that ripening in
June being termed the crop of San Juan,
and that maturing at Christmas being
known as the crop of La Navidad. The
average age to which the trees attain,
under proper care, may be estimated at
forty years, during which period it will
give fair to full crops of fruit ; but of
course it must be understood that, as in
our fruit-orchards, a new tree must be set
from time to time to replace one that may
be decayed or blighted. After careful
THE CACAO-TREE. 19
inquiry it may be safely stated that the
average crop of the cocoa plantation at
ten years of age, and under a proper state
of cultivation, will amount to five hundred
or six hundred pounds per acre.
" The fruit or seed of the cocoa, in form,
size, and color, is quite similar to the
almond. These seeds, to the number of
sixty or eighty, 1 are encased in a pod,
1 This statement is incorrect. The average number is
about twenty-five ; the maximum number would not exceed
forty. It is curious to note the different statements of those
who are regarded as authorities on the subject. Dampier
("A New Voyage round the World") says there are com-
monly near a hundred; Thomas Gage ("New Survey
of the West Indies") says there are from thirty to forty;
Colmenero (" A Curious Discourse upon Chocolate ") says
ten or twelve; Oexmelin ("The History of Adventures ")
says ten to fourteen. The French officer, in his "Natural
History of Chocolate," says (and says truly), " I can affirm,
after a thousand trials, that I never found more nor less than
twenty-five. Perhaps, if one were to seek out the largest
shells in the most fruitful soil and growing on the most
flourishing trees, one might find forty kernels; but as it is
not likely one would ever meet with more, so, on the other
hand, it is not probable one would ever find less than fifteen
except they are abortive, or the fruit of a tree worn out with
age in a barren soil, or without culture."
20 COCOA AND CHOCOLATE.
which, except in color, is the counterpart
of a young muskmelon, being elongated
and ribbed in the same manner. Its color,
when green, is like that of the egg-plant,
but, on ripening, it assumes a reddish
hue. A peculiarity of the cocoa is that
it bears fruit " from the ground up," the
trunk yielding fruit as well as the
branches. Upon ripening, the pods are
gathered from the trees and heaped in
piles on the ground, where they are left
for some days to ferment, after which they
burst open, when the seed must be shelled
out. After a light exposure to the sun,
during which time great care must be
taken to protect them from the rain, they
are sacked and ready for market.
u The cocoa-trees, when very young,
require to be carefully watched, to protect
them from the ravages of the borers, which,
instead of entering the trees near the ground
or in the roots, as is the case with the
borers in our peach-orchards, burrow under
THE CACAO-TREE. 21
the bark of the trunk and girdle the trees.
After a few years of care all danger from
this source is removed. The only disease
to which the tree is subject is la ?nancha,
which is an affection similar to the pear
blight in the United States, though not so
obstinate and fatal, and which, by promptly
cutting away the diseased bark, may be
usually arrested. The squirrels and wood-
peckers also must be guarded against, as
they are very fond of the young fruit. It
happens too, though rarely, that a period
of ten or twelve days of continuous rainy
and cloudy weather ensues, in which event
much of the fruit is blighted and falls from
the trees. These, it is believed, comprise
all the casualties to which the tree and the
green crop are exposed ; but which, when
compared with the usual contingencies that
affect our own orchards and fruit crops,
may not be considered more damaging or
discouraging.
44 In the tillage of the soil and the econo-
22 COCOA AND CHOCOLATE.
mies of agriculture the people of Vene-
zuela are probably not in advance of those
who scratched and scraped the earth before
the deluge. A people that will plough
with a forked stick, and plant corn with an
iron crow-bar, as is practised here, have
much to learn in respect to the laws of
nature and the appliances of art. And
the resultant idea, on a practical review of
the subject, is that, if a fair amount of
intelligent industry and care could be in-
vested in the cultivation of this crop, it
would undoubtedly yield a surprisingly
satisfactory percentage of remunerative
returns."
The method of preparing the fruit for
shipment is thus described in the recent edi-
tion of the " Encyclopaedia Britannica " : —
" In gathering, the workman is careful
to cut down only fully ripened pods, which
he adroitly accomplishes with a long pole
armed with two prongs, or a knife at its
THE CACAO-TREE. 23
extremity. The pods are left in a heap on
the ground for about twenty-four hours ;
they are then cut open and the seeds are
taken out and carried in baskets to the
place where they undergo the operation of
sweating or curing. There the acid juice
which accompanies the seeds is first drained
off, after which they are placed in a sweat-
ing-box, in which they are enclosed and
allowed to ferment for some time, great
care being taken to keep the temperature
from rising too high. The fermenting
process is, in some cases, affected by throw-
ing the seeds into holes or trenches in the
ground and covering them with earth or
clay. The seeds in this process, which is
called claying, are occasionally stirred to
keep the fermentation from proceeding too
violently. The sweating is a process which
requires the very greatest attention and
experience, as on it, to a great extent, de-
pends the flavor of the seeds and their fit-
ness for preservation. The operation varies
24 COCOA AND CHOCOLATE.
according to the state of the weather, but a
period of about two days yields the best
results. Thereafter the seeds are exposed
to the sun for drying, and those of a fine
quality should then assume a warm, red-
dish tint, which characterizes beans of a
superior quality."
The shell of the nut is prolonged in the
form of thin septa into the inner part of
the seed. The relative proportions of
shell and nib are approximately as I : 8,
the nib being much the more abundant.
They vary considerably in size. Single
seeds may be picked out which weigh
as much as 2.7 grammes ;' but the average
weight is much less, viz., 1.2 grammes.
The following determinations of the
weights of the different kinds of seeds were
made by J. Alfred Wanklyn, the well-
known analyst : —
1 A gramme is equal to 15.432 English grains.
THE CACAO-TREE. 25
Name of Cocoa. Weight of ioo Nuts.
Grammes.
Common Trinidad 98.
Fair, good Trinidad . . . . 123.2
Very fine Trinidad 178.7
Medium Granada io 4-5
Fine Granada 131.
Caracas I 3°«3
Dominican no.
Fine Surinam 122.
Fine Surinam (small) .... 7 I *5
Bahia (Brazil) 118.
Mexican 1 3^-5
African 128.
The nut, in its unprepared condition,
is not an article of retail trade. Before
it reaches the consumer it requires much
preparation, and without such preparation
it is in as impracticable a condition as
unground grain before the miller has con-
verted it into flour.
26 COCOA AND CHOCOLATE,
III.
EARLY USE.
THE name chocolate is nearly the same
in most European languages, and is
taken from the Mexican name of the
drink, chocolatl, or cacahuatl. All is
common enough in Mexican words, and
is known to signify water. What the first
part of the word means is not so clear. A
French writer says it signifies noise ; and
that the drink was so named because it was
beaten to a froth before being drunk.
The Spaniards found chocolate in com-
mon use among the Mexicans at the time
of the invasion under Cortez, in 1519, and
it was introduced into Spain immediately
after. The Mexicans not only used choco-
late as a staple article of food, but they used
the seeds of the cacao-tree as a medium
EARLY USE. 27
of exchange. An early writer says, " In
certain provinces called Guatimala and
Soconusco there is growing a great store
of cacao, which is a berry like unto an
almond. It is the best merchandise that is
in all the Indies. The Indians make drink
of it, and in like manner meat to eat. It
goeth currently for money in any market,
or fair, and may buy flesh, fish, bread
or cheese, or other things."
In the "True History of the Conquest
of Mexico," by Bernal Diaz, an officer
under Cortez, it is related that " from time
to time a liquor prepared from cocoa and
of a stimulating or corroborative quality,
as we are told, was presented to Mon-
tezuma in a golden cup. We could not at
the time see if he drank it or not, but I
observed a number of jars — above fifty —
brought in and filled with foaming choco-
late."
Thomas Gage, in his "New Survey of
28 COCOA AND CHOCOLATE.
the West Indies," first published in 1648,
gives the following interesting account of
the Spanish and Indian way of making and
drinking chocolate some two hundred and
fifty years ago : —
"Now, for the making or compounding
of this drink, I shall set down here the
method. The cacao and the other ingre-
dients must be beaten in a mortar of stone,
or (as the Indians use) ground upon a
broad stone, which they call Met ate, and
is only made for that use. But first the
ingredients are all to be dried, except the
Achiotte (annotto), with care that they be
beaten to powder, keeping them still in
stirring that they be not burnt, or become
black ; for if they be overdried they will be
bitter and lose their virtue. The cinnamon
and the long red pepper are to be first
beaten with the anniseed, and then the
cacao, which must be beaten by little and
little till it be all powdered, and in the
beating it must be turned round that it may
EARLY USE. 29
mix the better. Every one of these ingredi-
ents must be beaten by itself, and then all be
put into the vessel where the cacao is,
which you must stir together with a spoon,
and then take out that paste, and put it
into the mortar, under which there must
be a little fire, after the confection is made ;
but if more fire be put under than will only
warm it, then the unctuous part will dry
away. The Achiotte also must be put in
in the beating, that it may the better take
the colour. All the ingredients must be
searced, save only the cacao, and if from
the cacao the dry shell be taken, it will be
the better. When it is well beaten and in-
corporated (which will be known by the
shortnesse of it) then with a spoon (so in
the Indias is used) is taken up some of the
paste, which will be almost liquid, and
made into tablets, or else without a spoon
put into boxes, and when it is cold it will
be hard.
"Those that make it into tablets put a
30 COCOA AND CHOCOLATE.
spoonful of the paste upon a piece of
paper (the Indians put it upon the leaf of
a plaintain tree), where, being put into
the shade (for in the sun it melts and dis-
solves) , it grows hard ; and then bowing
the paper or leaf, the tablet fals off by
reason of the fatnesse of the paste. But if
it be put into anything of earth or wood, it
stickes fast, and will not come off but with
scraping or breaking. The manner of
drinking it is divers ; the one (being the
way most used in Mexico) is to take it
hot with Atolle, dissolving a tablet in hot
water, and stirring and beating it in the
cup, when it is to be drunk, with a Moli-
net, and when it is well stirred to a scum me
or froth, then to fill the cup with kot
Atolle, and so drink it sup by sup. An-
other way is that the chocolate, being dis-
solved with cold water and stirred with the
Molinet, and the scurame being taken off
and put into another vessel, the remainder
be set upon the fire, with as much sugar
EARLY USE. 31
as will sweeten it, and when it is warme,
then to powre it upon the scumme which
was taken off before, and so to drink it.
But the most ordinary way is to warme the
water very hot, and then to powre out
half the cup full that you mean to drink ;
and to put into it a tablet or two, or as
much as will thicken reasonably the water,
and then grinde it well with the Molinet,
and when it is well ground and risen to a
scumme, to fill the cup with hot water, and
so drink it by sups (having sweetened it
with sugar) , and to eat it with a little con-
serve or maple bred, steeped into the
chocolatte.
" Besides these ways there is another way
(which is much used in the Island of Santo
Domingo), which is to put the chocolatte
into a pipkin with a little water, and to let
it boyle well till it be dissolved, and then
to put in sufficient water and sugar accord-
ing to the quantity of the chocolatte, and
then to boyle it again untill there comes
32 COCOA AND CHOCOLATE.
an oily scumme upon it, and then to drink
it.
M There is another way yet to drink choco-
latte, which is cold, which the Indians use
at feasts to refresh themselves, and it is
made after this manner: The chocolatte
(which is made with none, or very few,
ingredients) being dissolved in cold water
with the Molinet, they take off the scumme
or crassy part, which riseth in great quan-
tity, especially when the cacao is older and
more putrefied. The scumme they lay aside
in a little dish by itself, and then put sugar
into that part from whence was taken the
scumme, and then powre it from on high
into the scumme, and so drink it cold.
And this drink is so cold that it agreeth
not with all men's stomachs ; for by ex-
perience it hath been found that it doth
hurt by causing pains in the stomach, es-
pecially to women.
" The third way of taking it is the most
used, and thus certainly it doth no hurt,
EARLY USE. 33
neither know I why it may not be used as
well in England as in other parts, both
hot and cold ; for where it is so much used,
the most, if not all, as well in the Indias
as in Spain, Italy, Flanders (which is a
cold countrey) , find that it agreeth well with
them. True it is, it is used more in the
Indias than in the European parts, because
there the stomachs are more apt to faint
than here, and a cup of chocolatte well
confectioned comforts and strengthens the
stomach. For myself I must say, I used
it twelve years constantly, drinking one
cup in the morning, another yet before
dinner between nine or ten of the clock ;
another within an hour or two after dinner,
and another between four and five in the
afternoon ; and when I was purposed to
sit up late to study, I would take another
cup about seven or eight at night, which
would keep me waking till about midnight.
And if by chance I did neglect any of
these accustomed houres, I presently found
34 COCOA AND CHOCOLATE.
my stomach fainty. And with this custome
I lived twelve years in those parts healthy,
without any obstructions, or oppilations,
not knowing what either ague or feaver
was."
M. Ferdinand Denis, in u La Legende
du Cacahuatl," makes the following inter-
esting statement in regard to the prepara-
tion of chocolate in ancient Mexico : —
" Torquemada, the learned historian,
and Thomas Gage, the conscientious trav-
eller, agree in telling us that hot chocolate
was an invention of the Castilians. The
first of these writers, who lived at the end
of the sixteenth century, says so positively ;
in his time it had been used for only a few
years.
" Would you know now what chocolate
was when the learned Antonio Colmenero
de Ledesma gave his receipt ? I copy it for
you here : —
" 'Take a hundred cacao kernels, two
EARLY USE. 35
heads of Chili or long peppers, a handful
of anise or orjevala, and two of mesachusil
or vanilla, — or, instead, six Alexandria
roses, powdered, — two drachms of cinna-
mon, a dozen almonds and as many hazel-
nuts, a half pound of white sugar, and
annotto enough to color it, and you have the
king of chocolates.'
" I must say a word concerning another
substance allied to the chocolate, beloved
of the Americans. I speak of atola, which
has been handed down to us. There was
the atola of dry and of green maize ; the
latter was served on elegant tables. Com-
posed of maize in the milky stage, sweet-
ened with the vegetable honey of the agave,
sometimes, also, flavored with excellent
vanilla, it had the appearance of blanc-
mange. On this mixture was poured choco-
late prepared cold. It can be understood
how the most delicate palates could relish
it. I say nothing here of the coarse
mixtures of dry flour, or frisoles, which
36 COCOA AND CHOCOLATE.
were mixed -with the cacao ; it was a
vulgar food, endurable only by the com-
mon people.
u Not to leave too incomplete this sketch
of various antiquities, often examined, but
still obscure, I must touch upon the still
less familiar subject of American ceramics,
which will not be the least curious para-
graph. The Mexicans had vases specially
set apart for beverages of the most varied
description, which were served at their fes-
tivals, from the ordinary pulque to the most
delicate octli. There were among them,
without doubt, chocolate pots of great
value. The historian of King Tezozomoc
leaver us no doubt on this subject. He
names, it is true, a series of ornamented
vases without making us acquainted with
their special use ; but he is much more ex-
plicit when he speaks of a cup, ready made
by nature, but which the goldsmith's art
had covered with the most elegant orna-
ments. Thanks to him, we know that
EARLY USE. 37
cocoa was offered to distinguished person-
ages in a tortoise shell, highly polished and
ornamented with gold arabesques. And it
was very probably in this manner that Fer-
nando Cortez drank his first chocolate."
The Spaniards thus early acquired a
knowledge of the fruit and of the manner
of preparing it, which they kept secret for
many years, selling it very profitably as
chocollat to the wealthy and luxurious
classes of Europe. But it was, as already
stated, an expensive preparation, and did
not come into use until long after the public
coffee-houses of London were established.
Says Brillat-Savarin, in his famous " Phys-
iologic du Gout," " Chocolate came over
the mountains [from Spain to France] with
Anne of Austria, daughter of Philip III.,
and Queen of Louis XIII. The Spanish
monks also spread the knowledge of it by
the presents they made to their brothers in
France. The various ambassadors of Spain
38 COCOA AND CHOCOLATE.
also contributed to bring it into fashion ;
and at the beginning of the Regency it
was more universally in use than coffee,
inasmuch as it was taken as an agreeable
article of food, while coffee still passed
only for a beverage of luxury and a curios-
ity. It is well known that Linnaeus called
the fruit of the cocoa-tree theobroma ' food
for the gods.' The cause of this emphatic
qualification has been sought, and attributed
by some to the fact that he was extrava-
gantly fond of chocolate ; by others to his
desire to please his confessor ; and by
others to his gallantry, a queen having first
introduced it into France."
The Spanish ladies of the New World, it
is said, carry their love for chocolate to such
a degree that, not content with partaking of it
several times a day, they have it sometimes
carried after them to church. This favor-
ing of the senses often drew upon them the
censures of the bishop ; but the Reverend
Father Escobar, whose metaphysics were as
EARLY USE. 39
subtle as his morality was accommodating,
declared, formally, that a fast was not bro-
ken by chocolate prepared with water;
thus wire-drawing, in favor of his peni-
tents, the ancient adage: i(, Liquidujn non
frangit je junium"
The earliest intimation of the introduc-
tion of cocoa into England is found in an
announcement in the Public Advertiser of
Tuesday, 16th June, 1657 (more than a
hundred and thirty years after its introduc-
tion into Spain), stating that "in Bishops-
gate street, in Queen's Head alley, at a
Frenchman's house, is an excellent West
India drink, called chocolate, to be sold,
where you may have it ready at any time ;
and also unmade, at reasonable rates."
Two years later, in the Mercurius Po-
liticus for June, 1659, it is stated that
" Chocolate, an excellent West India drink,
is sold in Queen's Head alley, in Bishops-
gate street, by a Frenchman who did for-
40 COCOA AND CHOCOLATE.
merly sell it in Grace Church street, and
Clement's Churchyard, being the first man
who did sell it in England ; and its virtues
are highly extolled."
A book written in the time of Charles
II., entitled " The Indian Nectar, or a
Discourse concerning Chocolate, etc.,"
says the best kind can be purchased of one
Mortimer, " an honest though poor man,
living in East Smithfield," for 6s. 8d. per
pound, and commoner sorts for about half
that price.
About the beginning of the eighteenth
century chocolate had become an exceed-
ingly fashionable beverage, and the cocoa-
tree was a favorite sign and name for places
of public refreshment. Cocoa and choco-
late are frequently mentioned in contem-
porary literature ; and among others Pope,
in his u Rape of the Lock," alludes to it ;
the negligent spirit, fixed like Ixion, —
" In fumes of burning chocolate shall glow,
And tremble at the sea that froths below."
EARLY USE. 41
Down to a late period (1832) the con-
sumption of cocoa in England was confined
within very narrow limits, owing to the
oppressiveness of the duties with which it
was loaded. The ruin of the cocoa plan-
tations which once flourished in Jamaica
was caused, says Mr. Bryan Edwards, the
historian, by the heavy hand of ministerial
exaction. In 1832 the duty on cocoa from
a British possession was reduced from 6d.
to 2d. per pound. The result was that the
consumption which, during the three years
ending in 1831, averaged only 440,578
pounds a year, shortly increased to an
average of 2,072,335 pounds. The duty of
6d. per pound on rofei&n cocoa was con-
tinued some $meuonger; but in 1853 the
duties were finally equalized and fixed at
id. per pound, and on paste or chocolate
at 2d. The duties on husks and shells
were reduced to 2s. per cwt. in 1855.
It is stated, on what appears to be good
42 COCOA AND CHOCOLATE.
authority, 1 that the chocolate-mill erected
on Neponset river, in the town of Dor-
chester, Mass, in 1765* was the first mill
of that kind established in the British prov-
inces of North America. It was connected
with a saw-mill, operated by water-power,
and was regarded as a somewhat doubtful
experiment. Its establishment was due to
the representations made by John Hannan,
an Irish immigrant, who had learned the
business of chocolate-making in England.
The new industry prospered in a small
way, and on the death of Hannan, in 1780,
Dr. James Baker established the house
which has continued the business without
interruption from that day to this.
In the early days the crude cocoa was
brought to the American market by the
Massachusetts traders, who received it in
exchange for the fish and other articles
which they shipped to the West Indies and
1 History of the town of Dorchester, Mass., 1857.
EARLY USE. 43
Central and South America ; and the direct
connection with the producers, thus early
established, has ever since been maintained.
In giving an account of the manufact-
ures in Boston, in 1794, J. L. Bishop, in
his " History of American Manufactures,"
says: "Chocolate had been long made
from the large'quantities of cocoa obtained
in the West India trade, and had been
greatly expedited by recent inventions.
The chocolate-mill of Mr. Welsh, at the
North End, could turn out 2,500 cwt.
daily."
It is a curious fact that on the spot where
the industry was first started, nearly a
century and a quarter ago, the business has
continued and attained the highest develop-
ment. From the small beginning 1 by Dr.
Baker there has grown up one of the
greatest establishments in the world, — the
house of Walter Baker & Co., — an estab-
lishment which competes successfully for
prizes in all the great industrial exhibitions
44 COCOA AND CHOCOLATE.
of the world, whose influence is felt in the
great commercial centres, and whose pros-
perity promotes the welfare of men who
labor under a tropical sun in the cultiva-
tion of one of the choicest fruits of the
earth.
PROPERTIES, ETC. 45
IV.
PROPERTIES, ETC,
THE most thorough and comprehensive
analysis of the properties of cocoa is
given by J. Alfred Wanklyn, in " A Prac-
tical Treatise on the Analysis of Tea, Cof-
fee, Cocoa, Chocolate, etc.," published in
London, in 1874. The following table gives
the results obtained by the leading authori-
ties : —
46
COCOA AND CHOCOLATE.
8 §
6 o6
U-» (-1
O O O O O O O
q q vq q io *q co
d co c4 vd ^ co d
o
q
d
o
u
II
Si
o o
q q
O O CO iovO N to ^t
^9 9 9999 9 *"!
d-^- vo co^m co cK
o
q
d
o
k
O S)
n
o o
o o
9 8
o o o o o
q q 9 9 9
VO CO M N rj-
o
q
d
o
■3 .
S3
>>2
o o
q q
6 6
o o o o o o o
oq o oqoq
8
d
o
a
8
a
1
o
q
vo
o o o o
9 9 9 9
d n ion
o
q
d
o
a
1
O O
q q
ci 6
O O 09 O O O
q q <uqqq
d n rt d ci ■<*•
o
q
d
o
3
1
1
o o
COCO
h i^O -i O CO
ONN ON O N rj-
6 NO «ifl •-<
o
q
d
o
C/3
i
»-l
I 5 •
4:2
go •
o.S.S
US £ e
^££^
CO ■— J •— J • —
" jd ^ .5 IS w
— i CJ 9 »^ r^ s_i
3
o
PROPERTIES, ETC.
47
" The most abundant constituent of the
seed," says Wanklyn, " is the fat, or cocoa-
butter, which constitutes about one-half of
the entire seed. Owing, no doubt, to this
circumstance, the specific gravity of the
seeds is less than unity, and they float on
water. After being kept for some days
in contact with the water some of the fat
makes its escape, and the seeds sink to the
bottom.
" I attach great importance to the deter-
mination of the ash. The following deter-
minations of ash have been recently made
in my laboratory : —
Common Trinidad .
Percentage of
Ash.
• 3-37
Very fine Trinidad . . .
Fair, good, fine Trinidad .
Fine Granada
. 3.62
. 3.64
. 3.12
Medium Granada ....
. 3.06
Caracas
Eahia (Brazil) ....
. 4.58
• 3-3i
48
COCOA AND CHOCOLATE.
Percentage of
Ash.
Fine Surinam
.
.
3.06
Fine Surinam
(small)
.
3-i5
Mexican
. . .
.
4.27
Dominican .
2.82
African . .
2.68
The mean of the twelve be]
ng
.
3-39
" Separate determinations of the ash of
the nib and the shell have also been made.
In the nib of the Caracas the ash amounted
to 3.95 per cent., whereof 2 .00 was soluble
in water, and 1 .95 insoluble in water.
" In the nib of the Mexican seeds the ash
was found to be 2.59 per cent., whereof
0.89 was soluble, and 1.70 insoluble, in
water. The shell (which, as mentioned
above, formed only a very small portion of
the entire seed) is much richer in mineral
matter or ash. I have found as much as
7.81 per cent, of ash in the shell. The
composition of the ash of the shell is very
different from that of the nib ; whilst the
PROPERTIES, ETC.
49
ash of the shell is rich in carbonates that
of the nib is almost devoid of carbon-
ates.
u A very careful analysis of the ash of the
entire seed has been recently made by my
friend, Mr. Wm. Bettel, in my laboratory.
The results are as follows : —
" Composition of ash of the entire seeds
(Caracas), —
Potash K 2
29.81
Chloride of Sodium Na CI
6.10
Peroxide of Iron Fi 2 3 . .
1.60
Alumina Al 2 3 . . . .
2.40
Lime Ca . . . .
• 7-72
Magnesia Mg O . . .
7.90
Phosphoric Acid P 2 O s
. 24.28
Sulphuric Acid S 3 .
1.92
Carbonic Acid C 2 .
. 0.98
Silica Si 2 . . . .
. 5.00
Sand
I2.IC
■"••"• x j
99.86
50 COCOA AND CHOCOLATE.
" From this analysis it is apparent that
the main constituent of the ash is phos-
phate of potash, and that there is almost
total absence of carbonates. The ash of
the shell being, as has been said, highly
charged with carbonates, it follows that,
in obtaining the ash of the entire seed, we
cause the phosphates of the nib to decom-
pose the carbonates of the shell, and so ob-
tain an ash devoid of carbonates.
" The large proportion of phosphate of
potash in cocoa (certainly not far from one
per cent, in the seed of good quality)
is worthy the attention of the physician,
and no doubt gives an especial value to a
dietary consisting largely of cocoa. It will
further be observed that the fine kinds of
cocoa-seeds are rich in phosphate of pot-
ash
"Mixtures of cocoa with starch and
sugar have long been perfectly legitimate,
provided no deception as to the strength in
cocoa be practised."
PROPERTIES, ETC. 51
In conclusion he says : " The prepara-
tions of cocoa constitute food rather than
drink, being highly nutritious in every
sense of the term. The fat present in
cocoa — viz. , the cocoa-butter — appears to
be of a particularly available description.
It is said never to become rancid, and
merits an elaborate examination. Whether
it be owing to peculiarities in the fat of
cocoa, or whether it be the theobromine
that is particularly efficient, certain it is
that cocoa will sometimes nourish when
nothing else will, and cocoa is occasionally
invaluable to the physician."
52 COCOA AND CHOCOLATE.
VALUE AS FOOD.
DR. EDWARD SMITH, LL.B.,
F.R.S., in his valuable work on
" Foods," for the International Scientific
Series, says : —
" These well-known substances (cocoa
and chocolate) are valuable foods, since
they are not only allied to tea and coffee
as respiratory excitants, but possess a
large quantity of fat and other food mate-
rials. . . .
" The following is the analysis of the
cocoa-bean, from various localities, by
Tuchen : —
Surinam. Caracas. Para. Trinidad.
Theobromine, per. ct. 0.56 0.55 0.66 0.48
Cocoa, red . . . 6.61 6.18 6.18 6.22
Cocoa-butter . . . 36.97 35.08 34.48 36.42
VALUE AS FOOD. 53
Surinam. Caracas. Para. Trinidad.
Gluten 3.20 3.21 2.99 3.15
Starch 0.55 0.62 0.28 0.51
Gum 0.69 1. 19 0.78 0.61
Extractive matter . 4.14 6.22 6.02 5.48
Humic acid . . . 7.25 9.28 8.63 9.25
Cellulose .... 30.00 28.66 30.21 29.86
Salts 3.00 2.91 3.00 2.98
Water 6.01 5.58 5.55 4.88
" This substance," he goes on to say,
" in its action is less exciting to the ner-
vous system than tea or coffee, and at the
same time it contains a much larger pro-
portion of nutritive material. Moreover,
its flavor is not lessened by the addition of
milk, so that it can be boiled in milk only,
and thus produce a most agreeable and
nutritious food. There are, therefore,
many persons, states of system and cir-
cumstances, in which its use is to be pre-
ferred to either tea or coffee."
54 COCOA AND CHOCOLATE.
A writer in Blackwood's Magazine
(1854, V. 75) says: " Of all the varieties
of ordinary human food cocoa has the
closest resemblance to milk ; " and he
gives the following analyses of dried milk
and the dried kernel of the cocoa-bean : —
Cocoa-Beans. Dried Milk.
Gluten or Caseine . . 18 . . 35
Starch or Sugar ... 23 .. 37
Fat 55 .. 24
Mineral matter ... 4 . . 4
" These numbers show," he says, " that
the bean is rich in all the important nutri-
tious principles which are found to coexist
in our most valued forms of ordinary food.
It differs from milk chiefly in the larger
proportion of fat it contains, and hence it
cannot be used so largely without admixt-
ure as the more familiar milk. When
mixed with water, however, it is more
properly compared with milk than with
VALUE AS FOOD. 55
the infusions of little direct nutritive
value, like those of tea and coffee ; and, on
the other hand, it has the great advantage
over milk, over beef-tea, and other similar
beverages, that it contains the substance
theobromine and the volatile empyrematic
oil, — both possessed of very valuable
properties. Thus it unites in itself the
exhilarating and other special qualities
which distinguish tea, with the strengthen-
ing and ordinary body- supporting qualities
of milk."
Brillat-Savarin, from whose work we
have already quoted, says : —
" Chocolate has given rise to profound
dissertations, whose object has been to de-
termine its nature and properties, and to
place it in the category of hot, cold, or
temperate foods ; and it must be confessed
that these learned writings have contributed
but very slightly to the demonstration of
the truth.
56 COCOA AND CHOCOLATE.
" But it was left for those two great mas-
ters, time and experience, to decide that
chocolate, carefully prepared, is an article
of food as wholesome as it is agreeable ;
that it is nourishing, easy of digestion, and
does not possess those qualities injurious to
beauty with which coffee has been re-
proached ; that it is excellently adapted to
persons who are obliged to a great concen-
tration of intellect in the toils of the pulpit
or the bar, and especially to travellers ;
that it suits the most feeble stomach ; that
excellent effects have been produced by it
in chronic complaints, and that it is a last
resource in affections of the pylorus.
" The various properties are due to the
fact that, chocolate being, strictly speak-
ing, only an elasosaccharum (oil of sugar) ,
there are few substances which contain
in an equal volume more nourishing par-
ticles, — the consequence being that it is
almost entirely assimilated.
" During the war (of the Spanish Sue-
VALUE AS FOOD.
tfSl
&XJ 67
cession) cocoa was scarce, and very dear.
It was attempted to find a substitute, but
all efforts were in vain ; and one of the
greatest benefits of the peace was the re-
lieving us of the various brews, which it
was necessary to taste out of politeness,
but which were no more like chocolate
than the infusion of chiccory was like
Mocha coffee.
" Some persons complain of being unable
to digest chocolate ; others, on the con-
trary, pretend that it has not sufficient
nourishment, and that the effect disappears
too soon. It is probable that the former
have only themselves to blame, and that
the chocolate which they use is of bad
quality or badly made ; for good and well-
made chocolate must suit every stomach
which retains the slightest digestive power.
" In regard to the others the remedy is
an easy one ; they should reenforce their
breakfast with a pate, a cutlet, or a kid-
ney ; moisten the whole with a good
58 COCOA AND CHOCOLATE.
draught of soconusco chocolate, and thank
God for a stomach of such superior ac-
tivity.
" This gives me an opportunity to make
an observation whose accuracy may be
depended upon.
" After a good, complete and copious
breakfast, if we take in addition a cup of
well-made chocolate, digestion will be
perfectly accomplished in three hours, and
we may dine whenever we like. Out of
zeal for science, and by dint of eloquence,
I have induced many ladies to try this
experiment. They all declared, in the be-
ginning, that it would kill them ; but they
have all thriven on it, and have not failed
to glorify their teacher.
M The people who make constant use of
chocolate are the ones who enjoy the
most steady health, and are the least sub-
ject to a multitude of little ailments which
destroy the comfort of life ; their plump-
ness is also more equal. These are two
VALUE AS FOOD. 59
advantages -which every one may verify
among his own friends, and wherever the
practice is in use.
" This is the place to speak of the prop-
erties of chocolate with amber, — properties
which I have proved with many experi-
ments, and the results of which I am
proud to offer to my readers.
" Let every man, then, who has drunk
too deep of the cup of pleasure ; every man
who has spent in work the time which
should be devoted to sleep ; every man of
wit who feels himself temporarily growing
stupid ; every man who finds the air
damp, the time long, and the atmosphere
difficult to endure ; every man who is tor-
mented with a fixed idea which takes
away from him the liberty of thought, — let
all these, I say, administer to themselves
a good half-litre of amber chocolate, in the
proportion of sixty or seventy grains of
amber to the pound, and they will see
wonders.
60 COCOA AND CHOCOLATE.
"In my particular way of specifying
things I call amber chocolate chocolate
for the afflicted, because each one of
these various conditions which I have
designated has something in common
which resembles affliction."
M. Boussingault, 1 a member of the
French Institute, in an interesting paper
printed in the " Annates de Physique et
du Chimic" says : —
u Chocolate contains a very large pro-
portion of nutritive matter in a small vol-
ume. In an expedition to a great distance,
where it is imperatively necessary to re-
duce the weight of the rations, chocolate
offers undeniable advantages, as I have
had frequent occasions to notice. Hum-
boldt recalls what has been said with
reason, that in Africa rice, gum, and
1 Jean Baptiste Joseph Dieudonne" Boussingault, French
chemist, served in his youth on the staff of Bolivar, the
liberator of South America.
VALUE AS FOOD. 61
butter enable men to cross the desert ; and
he adds that, in the New World, chocolate
and corn-meal render the plateaus of the
Andes, and the vast, uninhabited forests,
accessible to man.
"In Central America, when they organ-
ize a river expedition, or traverse the for-
ests, they prepare chocolate for provision
with eighty parts of cocoa to twenty of
coarse sugar, the composition being as fol-
lows : —
Sugar 200
Butter 410
Albumen 100
Phosphates and salts 30
Other matter 260
1,000
" Each man receives 60 grammes (about 2
ounces) of this chocolate per day, in which
there are 1 2 grammes of sugar, 26 of butter,
62 COCOA AND CHOCOLATE.
and 6 of albumen. It is a useful addition
to the ration formed of beef slightly salted
and dried in the air, of rice, of corn bis-
cuit, or of cassava muffins.
" The infusion of tea, mate (Paraguay
tea) , and coffee are not, of course, to be con-
sidered as food. The amount of solid
matter in them is very slight, and their
effects are due only to their alkaloids.
" This is not true of chocolate, which is
at the same time complete food and an
active excitant, since it approaches in com-
position that model food, milk. In fact
we have seen that in cocoa there is legu-
mine and albumen, associated with fat,
sugar to sustain respiratory combustion,
phosphates, which are the basis of the
bones, and — what milk does not have
— theobromine and a delicate aroma.
Roasted, ground and mixed with sugar,
cocoa becomes chocolate, the nutritive
properties of which astonished the Spanish
soldiers that invaded Mexico."
VALUE AS FOOD. 63
A competent writer, in the last edition of
the " Encyclopaedia Britannica," says: —
u The constitution upon which the pecul-
iar value of cocoa depends is the theobro-
mine, an alkaloid substance, which till re-
cently was supposed to be distinct from,
though closely allied to, the theine of tea and
coffee. It is now, however, known that the
alkaloid in these, and in two or three other
substances similarly used, is identical, and
their physiological value is consequently
the same. The fat, or cocoa-butter, is a
firm, solid white substance, at ordinary
temperature, having an agreeable taste and
odor, and very remarkable for its freedom
from any tendency to become rancid. It
consists essentially of stearin, with a little
olein, and is used in surgical practice, and
in France as a material for soap and
pomade manufacture.
44 The starch grains present in raw cocoa
are small in size, and of a character so
peculiar that there is no difficulty in dis-
64 COCOA AND CHOCOLATE.
tinguishing them under the microscope
from any other starch granules. As an
article of food cocoa differs essentially from
both tea and coffee. While only an in-
fusion of these substances is used, leaving
a large proportion of their total weight
unconsumed, the entire substance of the
cocoa-seeds is prepared as an emulsion for
drinking, and the whole is thus utilized
within the system. While the contents of
a cup of tea or coffee can thus only be re-
garded as stimulant in its effect, and almost
entirely destitute of essential nutritive prop-
erties, a cup of prepared cocoa is really a
most nourishing article of diet, as, in addi-
tion to the value of the theobromine it con-
tains, it introduces into the system no incon-
siderable portion of valuable nitrogenous
and oleaginous elements."
M. Arthur Mangin, in his valuable
work, " Le Cacao et le Chocolat" pub-
lished in 1862, gives some very good
VALUE AS FOOD. 65
reasons for promoting the use of cocoa.
He says : —
" Cocoa cannot be considered in any re-
spect an article of luxury. It is not a
dainty ; its hygienic and nutritive prop-
erties are unquestionable and unquestioned,
and its being endowed with an aroma and
flavor which please the sense of smell and
the palate is no reason at all for its not
being reckoned among articles of food,
properly so called. Its cultivation, trans-
port and preparation furnish occupation
and support to a multitude of laborers, and
its consumption should be respected and
encouraged by all wise governments, not
only because it is physically beneficial, but,
and we do not hesitate to say it, because
it is mora/fy salutary.
" Coffee, of which much good can hon-
estly be said, is, however, open to much
criticism, as well on account of its physio-
logical effects as its influence on public
morals. It can be abused and misused.
66 COCOA AND CHOCOLATE.
Its infusion is an exciting beverage, which
does not agree with every one, and which
may, when used to excess, cause serious
consequences, decidedly affect the health,
and even disturb the intellectual faculties.
Coffee, moreover, easily becomes a pretext
for debauch. It is consumed in the most
respectable houses ; but also in cafes, liquor
saloons and disreputable places, with the
accompaniments of alcoholic liquors, to-
bacco-smoke, coarse words, and unlawful
games.
" It is impossible to impute the like effects
to chocolate. Its use can never degenerate
into abuse, and it can never, like coffee,
become a poison, even a slow poison. And
then, whatever certain casuists may say,
chocolate is decidedly a food, not a bever-
age. More, it is, above all, the food of
sober, orderly, and peaceable folk. It is
found only on the family table, at parties
of good society, or in public establishments
frequented either by well-bred people or
VALUE AS FOOD. 67
hard-working mechanics. We do not play-
cards or smoke while we drink chocolate,
and after it we take no brandy ; we drink,
perhaps, a glass of cold water, and go
peaceably back to our work or to look after
our affairs.
" The well-known proverb, ' People are
known by the company they keep/ would
lose none of its force if altered to read :
4 Tell me what you eat and drink, and I
will tell you who you are.' Breakfast,
especially, is the characteristic repast,
which gives the surest indications as to the
morality of civilized men. The man who
eats a substantial meat breakfast, and fol-
lows it up with coffee and liquors, may
certainly be a very honest man, but he is
not a temperate man, and one might wager
that after such a repast he will do very-
little. Be assured, on the contrary, that
he who breakfasts on milk, coffee, or choco-
late has few physical wants ; that his sen-
suality, if he be sensual, is mild and
68 COCOA AND CHOCOLATE.
moderate, and that the man in him has the
mastery over he animal. Let govern-
ments load with high duties all spirituous
liquors, — luxurious beverages for the rich,
but utter poison for the people, — agents of
depravity, demoralization, and degenera-
tion, equally fatal to public morals and
public health ; let them impose an arbi-
trary tax on tobacco, and even monopolize
the sale at fictitious prices ; let them do
likewise with playing-cards and other
articles which supply merely imaginary
wants, — these are measures whose political
legitimacy or economic utility may be at-
tacked, but which cannot be contested as
contrary to the popular interest, or to the
increase of its comfort or its moral im-
provement.
u Cocoa is, on the contrary, among the
few articles — it is perhaps the only one
— whose sale should be not only released
from all constraint, but encouraged and
extended, because it is the only article of
VALUE AS FOOD. 69
food to which may be applied the appar-
ently strange and paradoxical qualification
— morally improving food. We have just
shown that this qualification suits it in all
respects. It is proved, beside, that cocoa
enters too largely into popular consump-
tion, that it forms too great an addition to
the sum of the food substances already ex-
isting, for it to be reckoned henceforth
among luxuries subject to sumptuary
laws."
Dr. Edmund A. Parkes, F.R.S., in his
u Manual of Practical Hygiene, prepared
especially for use in the Medical Service
of the Army" (London, 1864), says: —
" Although the theobromine of cocoa is
now known to be identical with theineand
caffeine, the composition of cocoa removes
it widely from tea and coffee. The quan-
tity of fat varies even in the same sort of
cocoa. The ash contains a large quantity of
phosphate of potash. The larger quantity
70 COCOA AND CHOCOLATE.
of fat makes it a very nourishing article of
diet, and it is therefore useful in weak
states of the system, and for healthy men
under circumstances of great exertion. It
has even been compared to milk. In
South America cocoa and maize cakes are
used by travellers, and the large amount
of agreeable nourishment in small bulk
enables several days' supplies to be easily
carried. By roasting, the starch is changed
into dextrin, the amount of margaric acid
increases, and an empyrematic aromatic
substance is formed."
Baron von Liebig, the famous chemist,
says : —
" It is a perfect food, as wholesome as
delicious, a beneficent restorer of exhausted
power ; but its quality must be good, and
it must be carefully prepared. It is highly
nourishing and easily digested, and is fitted
to repair wasted strength, preserve health,
and prolong life. It agrees with dry tern-
VALUE AS FOOD. 71
peraments and convalescents ; with moth-
ers who nurse their children ; with those
whose occupations oblige them to undergo
severe mental strains ; with public speak-
ers, and with all those who give to work a
portion of the time needed for sleep. It
soothes both stomach and brain, and for
this reason, as well as for others, it is the
best friend of those engaged in literary
pursuits. "
Francois Joseph Victor Broussais, a
celebrated physician and member of the
French Institute, says : —
" Chocolate of good quality, well made,
properly cooked, is one of the best aliments
that I have yet found for my patients and
for myself. This delicious food calms the
fever, nourishes adequately the patient,
and tends to restore him to health. I
would even add that I attribute many cures
of chronic dyspepsia to the regular use of
chocolate."
72 COCOA AND CHOCOLATE.
Christoph Wilhelm Hufeland, the dis-
tinguished German physician, says : —
" I recommend good chocolate to ner-
vous, excitable persons ; also to the weak,
debilitated, and infirm ; to children and
women. I have obtained excellent results
from it in many cases of chronic diseases
of the digestive organs."
Dr. Karl Ernest Bock, of Leipsic,
author of a" Traite de Pathologie et de
Diagnostic" says : —
" The nervousness and peevishness of
our times are chiefly attributable to tea
and coffee ; the digestive organs of con-
firmed coffee-drinkers are in a state of
chronic derangement, which reacts upon
the brain, producing fretful and lachry-
mose moods. Cocoa and chocolate are
neutral in their physical effects, and are
really the most harmless of our fashionable
drinks."
VALUE AS FOOD. 73
Jean Baptiste Alphonse Chevalier, in
his treatise on chocolate, says : —
" Cocoa and chocolate are a complete
food ; coffee and tea are not food. Cocoa
gives one- third its weight in starch and one-
half in cocoa-butter ; and, converted into
chocolate by the addition of sugar, it real-
izes the idea of a complete aliment, whole-
some and eminently hygienic. The shells
of the bean contain the same principles as
the kernels, and the extract, obtained by
an infusion of the shells in sweetened milk,
forms a mixture at once agreeable to the
taste, and an advantageous substitute for
tea and coffee.''
Mme. de Sevigne, in one of her letters to
her daughter, says : —
" I took chocolate night before last to
digest my dinner, in order to have a good
supper. I took some yesterday for nour-
ishment, so as to be able to fast until night.
What I consider amusing about chocolate
74 COCOA AND CHOCOLATE.
is that it acts according to the wishes
of the one who takes it."
It will be observed that Brillat-Savarin
corroborates this statement as to the value
of chocolate as an aid to digestion.
" The cocoa-#»t," says M. Payen, in
u Des Substances Alhnentaires" " has in
its composition more azote than wheat
flour, about twenty times as much fatty
matter, a considerable proportion of starch,
and an agreeable aroma which excites the
appetite. We are entirely disposed to admit
that this substance contains a remarkable
nutritive power. Besides, direct experience
has proved this to be the case. In fact,
cocoa, closely combined with an equal or
two-thirds weight of sugar, forming the
article well-known under the name of
chocolate, constitutes a food, substantial
in all respects, and capable of sustaining
the strength in travelling."
And, a little farther on, he adds : —
VALUE AS FOOD. 75
" Cocoa and chocolate, in consequence
of their elementary composition, and of the
direct or indirect addition of sugar before
their consumption, constitute a food, res-
piratory, or capable of maintaining animal
heat, by means of the starch, sugar, gum,
and fatty matter which the,y contain ; they
are also articles of food favorable to the
maintenance or development of the adipose
secretions, by reason of the fatty matter
(cocoa-butter) belonging to them ; and,
finally, they assist in the maintenance and
increase of the tissues by means of their
congeneric azote substances, which assimi-
late therewith."
Etienne Francois Geoffroy, the distin-
guished French physician and professor of
medicine and pharmacy in the College of
France, says, in his " Traite de Matiere
Medicale " : —
"The drinking of chocolate, especially
of that made with milk, is recommended
76 COCOA AND CHOCOLATE.
to persons affected with phthisis or con-
sumption ; and, in fact, it supplies a juice
which is nourishing, substantial, and
smooth, which deadens the acrimony of the
humors; provided, as we have said, that the
cocoa is properly roasted, and mixed with
a very small quantity of spices."
The French officer, from whose work on
the" Natural History of Chocolate" we have
already quoted, after describing the differ-
ent methods of raising and curing the fruit
and preparing it for food (which it is not
worth while to reproduce here, as the
methods have essentially changed during
the last fifty years) , goes on to demonstrate,
as the result of actual experiment, that
chocolate is a substance " very temperate,
very nourishing, and of easy digestion ;
very proper to repair the exhausted spirits
and decayed strength ; and very suitable to
preserve the health and prolong the lives
of old men."
VALUE AS FOOD. 77
" 1 could produce several instances," he
says, " in favor of this excellent nourish-
ment ; but I shall content myself with two
only, equally certain and decisive, in proof
of its goodness. The first is an experiment
of chocolate's being taken for the only
nourishment, — made by a surgeon's wife
of Martinico : she had lost, by a very
deplorable accident, her lower jaw, which
reduced her to such a condition that she
did not know how to subsist. She was
not capable of taking anything solid, and
not rich enough to live upon jellies and
nourishing broths. In this strait she de-
termined to take three dishes of chocolate,
prepared after the manner of the countiy,
one in the morning, one at noon, and one
at night. There chocolate is nothing else
but cocoa kernels dissolved in hot water,
with sugar, and seasoned with a bit of cin-
namon. This new way of life succeeded so
well that she has lived a long while since,
more lively and robust than before this
accident.
78 COCOA AND CHOCOLATE.
" I had the second relation from a gen-
tleman of Martinico, and one of my
friends not capable of a falsity.
" He assured me that in his neighborhood
an infant of four months old unfortunately
lost his nurse, and its parents, not being
able to put it to another, resolved, through
necessity to feed it with chocolate. The
success was very happy, for the infant
came on to a miracle, and was neither less
healthy nor less vigorous than those who
are brought up by the best nurses.
" Before chocolate was known in Europe
good old wine was called the milk of old
men ; but this title is now applied with
greater reason to chocolate ; since its use
has become so common that it has been
perceived that chocolate is, with respect to
them, what milk is to infants. In reality,
if one examines the nature of chocolate a
little, with respect to the constitution of
aged persons, it seems as though the one
was made on purpose to remedy the de-
VALUE AS FOOD. 7V
fects of the other, and that it is truly the
panacea of old age.
" Our life, as a famous physician observes,
is, as it were, a continual growing dry ;
but yet this kind of natural consumption is
imperceptible to an advanced age, when
the radical moisture is consumed more
sensibly. The more balmy and volatile
parts of the blood are dissipated by little
and little ; the salts, disengaging from the
sulphurs, manifest themselves ; - the acid
appears, which is the fruitful source of
chronic diseases. The ligaments, the ten-
dons, and the cartilages have scarce any of
the unctuosity left, which rendered them
so supple and so pliant in youth. The
skin grows wrinkled as well within as
without ; in a word, all the solid parts
grow dry or bony.
" One may say that nature has formed
chocolate with every virtue proper to
remedy these inconveniences.
M The volatile sulphur with which it
80 COCOA AND CHOCOLATE.
abounds is proper to supply the place of
that which the blood loses every day
through age ; it blunts and sheathes the
points of the salts, and restores the usual
softness to the blood, like as spirit of wine,
united with spirit of salt, makes a soft
liquor of a violent corrosive. The same
sulphurous unctuosity at the same time
spreads itself in the solid parts, and gives
them, in some sense, their natural supple-
ness. It bestows on the membranes, the
tendons, the ligaments and the cartilages, a
kind of oil which renders them smooth and
flexible. Thus the equilibrium between
the fluids and solids is, in some measure,
reestablished ; the wheels and springs
of our machine mended ; health is pre-
served and life prolonged. These are not
the consequences of philosophical reflec-
tions, but of a thousand experiments which
mutually confirm each other ; among a
great number of which the following alone
shall suffice : —
VALUE AS FOOD. 81
kt There lately died at Martinico a coun-
sellor, about a hundred years old, who, for
thirty years past, lived on nothing but
chocolate and biscuit. He sometimes, in-
deed, had a little soup at dinner, but never
any fish, flesh, or other victuals. He was,
nevertheless, so vigorous and nimble that
at fourscore and five he could get on horse-
back without stirrups.
" Chocolate is not only proper to pro-
long the life of aged people, but also of
those whose constitution is lean and dry, or
weak and cacochymical, or who use violent
exercises, or whose employments oblige
them to an intense application of mind,
which makes them very faintish. To all
these it agrees perfectly well, and becomes
to them an altering diet."
82 COCOA AND CHOCOLATE.
VL
COCOA-BUTTER.
" A S the oil (or butter) of cocoa is very
ii anodyne, or an easer of pain, it is
excellent, taken inwardly, to cure hoarse-
ness and to blunt the sharpness of the salts
that irritate the lungs. In using it must be
melted and mixed with a sufficient quantity
of sugar candy and made into lozenges,
which must be held in the mouth until
the substance melts quite away, so that it
can be swallowed gently. Taken season-
ably the oil is also a wonderful antidote
against corrosive poisons.
" It is the best and most natural pomatum
for ladies to clear and plump the skin
when it is dry, rough, or shrivelled, with-
out making it appear either fat or shining.
The Spanish women at Mexico use it
COCOA-BUTTER. 83
very much, and it is highly esteemed by
them.
M The leaving off the practice of anoint-
ing the body with oil can be attributed to
nothing else but the ill smell and other disa-
greeable effects that attended it ; but if oil of
chocolate was used instead of oil of olives
those inconveniences would be avoided,
because it has no smell and dries entirely
into the skin. Nothing certainly would
be more advantageous, especially for aged
persons, than to renew this custom, which
has been authorized by the experience of
antiquity.
" Apothecaries ought to make use of this,
preferably to all others, as the basis of their
balsams, because all other oils grow ran-
cid, and this does not.
"There is nothing so proper as this to
keep arms from rusting, because it con-
tains less water than any other oil made
use of for that purpose.
" In the West Indies they make use of
84 COCOA AND CHOCOLATE.
this oil to cure the piles. Others use it to
ease gout pains, applying it hot to the
part, with a compress dipped in it, which
they cover with a hot napkin. It may be
used after the same manner for the rheu-
matism."
M. Arthur Mangin says : —
" When pure and freshly extracted
cocoa-butter is of a pale yellow color ; its
consistency is about that of tallow. Its
odor is faint, but sweet, and its taste pleas-
ant. When thoroughly purified, and pro-
tected from heat, air, and dampness, it may
be preserved, without perceptible altera-
tion, for several years.
"It is insoluble in water, hardly soluble
in alcohol, completely soluble in sulphuric
ether and the essential oil of turpentine. Its
density is 0.91 . It softens perceptibly at 24
or 25 {Centigrade ; i.e., 56 or 57 Fah-
renheit), but melts only at 29 , and be-
comes entirely liquid only at 35 to 40 .
It cannot boil without being decomposed.
COCOA-BUTTER. 85
It contains, according to M. Boussingault,
carbon, .766 ; hydrogen, .119 ; oxygen, .115.
Cocoa-butter formerly played a tolerably
important part in medicine, by reason of
the numerous properties attributed to it.
It was called a pectoral, an expectorant, a
humective, a demulcent, an emollient, a
refrigerative, etc., etc. It was prescribed
for persons suffering from or suspected of
chest diseases, nervous coughs, bronchitis,
etc., and it was combined with kermes,
ipecacuanha, etc., to make pills, emulsions,
opiates, and other remedies.
" At present it is no longer prescribed for
internal use ; but pharmacists, as well as
perfumers, make it the basis of many po-
mades and ointments, whose use is, we are
assured, most beneficial, and, at all events,
most agreeable. Cocoa-butter, pure or
simply combined with an oil which renders
it more or less unctuous, is one of the
smoothest, most fragrant, and, if we may
be allowed the expression, most savory,
86 COCOA AND CHOCOLATE.
pomades which can be used for the hair or
skin, and it is astonishing that there should
be preferred to it so many equivocal com-
pounds whose exorbitant price is justified
by not one of the properties claimed for
them by the puffs of perfumers."
" This concentrated oil," says M. Del-
cher, " is the best and most natural of all
the pomades which ladies, who possess a
too dry skin can use to make it smooth,
soft, and polished, without any greasy or
shining appearance, which is produced by
most of the pomades advertised for the
purpose.
" I agree," continues the same author,
" with the opinion of M. Plisson, who ad-
vises the use of cocoa-butter pomade for
women who suffer from acrid eruptions,
cracked lips, breast, etc. The Spaniards
of Mexico understand the value of these
preparations ; but, as in France, this con-
centrated oil hardens too much, it is neces-
sary to mix it with the oil of the ben-nut,
COCOA-BUTTER. 87
or of sweet almonds. If the ancient cus-
tom of the Greeks and Romans should be
revived, of anointing one's self with oil to
give suppleness to the limbs and to guard
against rheumatism, the oil of cocoa should
be chosen for the purpose.
M Considered as food, and asa medicinal
substance, cocoa-butter possesses the same
fundamental property as other fat. It sup-
plies to respiration the necessary combus-
tible elements, and renders it, in conse-
quence, more easy and active. It ma}',
therefore, be administered with advantage
to persons suffering from affections of the
chest, and possesses the advantage, in com-
mon w r ith only a very small number of
substances of the same kind, that the most
fastidious and obstinate patient may take it
for the whole of his life without disgust."
RECEIPTS
RECEIPTS.
VII.
DIFFERENT METHODS OF PREPARING
DRINKS.
THERE are many different methods
of preparing cocoa and chocolate for
drinking. The Mexicans are in the habit
of preparing it with atole, a kind of pap
made of maize, which is their most ancient
and common beverage, and which they
mix hot, in equal quantities with the choco-
late dissolved in hot water, and drink di-
rectly. 1 They also dissolve the chocolate
1 " I remember," says Prof. Eaton, " some that was
brought home from Mexico by the officers of Gen. Zachary
Taylor's army. The cakes were of half a pound weight,
or so, and were made of very coarsely pounded cocoa.
92 RECEIPTS.
in cold water, stirring it with the chocolate
stick, and skim off the froth into another
vessel, then put the remaining chocolate
over the fire with sugar enough to sweeten
it, and as soon as it boils pour it over the
froth, and drink it.
The inhabitants of St. Domingo put
chocolate into a vessel with a little water,
and boil it till it is dissolved ; then add the
necessary water and sugar, let it boil again
till an unctuous froth is formed, and drink
it in this state.
The Indians of New Spain make use of
They were well sweetened, and contained a large proportion
of some starchy material. For a drink the chocolate is
broken into small pieces and placed with water in a red
earthen pot, an upright cylindrical pot, and heated. When
the chocolate is boiled enough it is stirred violently with a
sort of dasher, much like that of an old-fashioned churn,
except that the handle is rolled between the hands rather
than worked up and down. The chocolate is beaten into a
foam, which the old travellers declared remained so stiff
after the chocolate was cold that it could be cut up and
eaten in mouthfuls. This effect must have been due to the
quantity of starch, or, most likely, fine maize-meal, in the
drink, rather than to any special skill in milling it.'*
RECEIPTS. 93
cold chocolate in their festivals, prepared
by milling pure chocolate in cold water,
skimming off the froth into another vessel,
then adding sugar to the remaining liquid,
and pouring it from a great height on
the froth. This chocolate is exceedingly
cold.
Iced chocolate is used in many parts of
Italy, where it is the custom to cool almost
all beverages upon snow or ice.
The Spanish method of making choco-
late is to mix it so thick that a spoon can
stand upright in the mixture ; then to
drink iced water after it by way of dilut-
ing it.
Chocolate is usually milled in a tin vessel,
within which a wheel, somewhat smaller
in circumference than the vessel, is fixed
to a stem which passes through the lid,
and, being turned rapidly between the
palms of the hands, bruises and mixes the
chocolate with the water. Chocolate should
be first milled off the fire, then put on and
94 RECEIPTS.
left to simmer for some time, after which
it is milled again till perfectly smooth, and
free from sediment. Any ladle or stick
which effectually mixes the chocolate with
the water may be substituted for the mill-
ing stick. Chocolate in powder does not
require milling. Chocolate should never
be made until wanted, as it is spoiled by
reheating. Chocolate may be made in an
iron pot or stewpan, a chocolate-pot, or
Chocolatiere. — The Dessert Book.
Plain Chocolate (i).
The quantity of chocolate for a certain
quantity of milk is according to taste. Two
ounces of chocolate make a good cup of it,
and rather thick. Break the chocolate in
pieces, put it in a tin saucepan with a tea-
spoonful of water to an ounce of chocolate,
and set it on a rather slow fire. Stir now
and then till thoroughly melted. While
the chocolate is melting set the quantity
of milk desired in another tin saucepan on
RECEIPTS. 95
the fire, and as soon as it rises, and when
the chocolate is melted as directed above,
turn the milk into the chocolate little by
little, beating well at the same time with an
egg-beater. Keep beating and boiling after
being mixed, for three or four minutes ; take
off and serve. If both chocolate and milk
are good it will be frothy, and no better or
more nutritious drink can be had. — Pierre
Blot.
Plain Chocolate (2).
Scrape one ounce (one of the small
squares) of Baker's or any plain chocolate,
fine ; add to this two tablespoonfuls of
sugar, and put into a small saucepan with
one tablespoonful of hot water ; stir over a
hot fire for a minute or two, until it is per-
fectly smooth and glossy ; then stir it all
into a quart of boiling milk, or half milk
and half water ; mix thoroughly and serve
immediately. If the chocolate is desired
richer take twice as much chocolate, sugar,
and water. Made in this way chocolate
96 RECEIPTS.
is perfectly smooth and free from oily par-
ticles. If it is allowed to boil after the
chocolate is added to the milk it becomes
oily and loses its fine flavor. — Maria Par-
loa.
Frothed Chocolate.
One cup of boiling water ; three pints of
fresh milk ; three tablespoonfuls of Baker's
chocolate, grated ; five eggs, the whites
only beaten light ; two tablespoonfuls of
sugar, powdered for froth. Sweeten the
chocolate to taste ; heat the milk to scald-
ing ; wet up the chocolate with the boiling
water, and when the milk is hot stir this
into it ; simmer gently ten minutes, stirring
frequently ; boil up briskly once ; take from
the fire, sweeten to taste, taking care not to
make it too sweet, and stir in the whites of
two eggs, whipped stiff, without sugar ;
pour into the chocolate-pot or pitcher,
which should be well heated. Have ready
in a cream-pitcher the remaining whites,
whipped up with the powdered sugar ; cover
RECEIPTS. 97
the surface of each cup with sweetened
meringue before distributing to the guests.
Chocolate or cocoa is a favorite luncheon
beverage, and many ladies, especially those
who have spent much time abroad, have
adopted the French habit of breakfast-
ing upon rolls and a cup of chocolate. —
Marion Harland.
Milled Chocolate.
Three heaping tablespoonfuls of grated
chocolate ; one quart of milk ; wet the
chocolate with boiling water, scald the
milk, and stir in the chocolate-paste ;
simmer ten minutes ; then, if you have no
regular " muller," put your syllabub-churn
into the boiling liquid and churn steadily,
without taking from the fire, until it is a
yeasty froth ; pour into a chocolate-pitcher
and serve at once.
This is esteemed a great delicacy by
chocolate-lovers, and is easily made. —
Marion Harland.
98 RECEIPTS.
Baker's Premium No. i Chocolate.
Scrape £ne about one square of a cake,
which is one ounce ; add to it about an
equal weight of sugar ; put these into a
pint of perfectly boiling milk and water,
of each one-half, and immediately mill or
stir them well for two or three minutes,
until the sugar and chocolate are well dis-
solved. Some think ten or twelve minutes'
boiling improves it.
Baker's Vanilla Chocolate.
This may be prepared with either milk
or water, according to the taste of the con-
sumer. For one cup of chocolate scrape
fine one of the oblong divisions and fully
dissolve it in a very little boiling water.
Put one cup of milk or water in a sauce-
pan, and when it is at the highest boiling-
point add the chocolate. Then allow it
to simmer from five to seven minutes, but
not to boil.
RECEIPTS. 99
Baker's Breakfast Cocoa.
Into a breakfast-cup put a teaspoonful of
the powder, add a tablespoonful of boiling
water and mix thoroughly ; then add equal
parts of boiling water and boiled milk, and
susrar to the taste. Boiling two or three
minutes will improve it.
Baker's Cocoa-Paste.
Put two teaspoonfuls of paste into a tea-
cup ; pour upon it a little boiling water,
and stir it until it is dissolved ; then fill the
cup with boiling water, and stir again ;
add cream or milk, if agreeable. Two or
three minutes' boiling improves it.
Baker's Eagle French Chocolate.
Into a pint of boiling milk and water (of
each one-half, or other proportions if more
agreeable) throw two oblong divisions of
the chocolate cake, previously cut fine ;
then boil it from five to seven minutes
longer, stirring it frequently.
100 RECEIPTS.
German Sweet Chocolate.
Into one pint of boiling milk and water
(of each one-half) throw two squares of
chocolate scraped fine ; then boil it five min-
utes longer or more, stirring frequently.
Baker's Racahout des Arabes.
Dissolve two tablespoonfuls of Racahout
in a little cold milk. Heat gradually a
quart of milk to boiling ; add the above
and let it boil (stirring meanwhile) until it
begins to thicken. To enrich for dessert,
add two eggs to the mixture before putting
it into the boiling milk. Strain the whole
when cooked.
Baker's Broma.
Dissolve a large tablespoonful of broma
in as much warm water ; then pour upon
it a pint of boiling milk and water, in
equal proportions, and boil it two minutes
longer, stirring it frequently ; add sugar at
pleasure.
RECEIPTS. 101
Baker's Cocoa Shells.
Take a small quantity of cocoa shells
(say two ounces), pour upon them three
pints of boiling water ; boil rapidly thirty
or forty minutes ; allow it to settle or
strain, and add cream or boiled milk and
sugar at pleasure.
Baker's Prepared Cocoa.
To one pint of milk and one pint of cold
water add three tablespoonfuls of cocoa ;
boil fifteen or twenty minutes. Any other
proportions of milk and water make a
pleasant beverage.
Baker's Premium Cracked Cocoa.
Use the same quantity as of coffee.
Cocoa in this form needs thorough and
continued boiling to extract its full strength.
By adding a small quantity of cocoa daily
the consumer will have a highly flavored
cup of cocoa at a trifling expense.
102 RECEIPTS.
French Chocolat au lait (Chocolate with milk).
Place the chocolate, cut into small
pieces, in a saucepan over a slow fire, in
order that the chocolate may dissolve
gradually and not adhere to the pan.
When the chocolate is completely melted
pour boiling milk upon it in small quan-
tities, and stir rapidly. After adding the
requisite quantity of milk let the mixture
come to the boiling-point for an instant,
and you will have a light and most agree-
able chocolate.
Chocolat a l'eau (Chocolate with water).
Follow the directions given above, using
water instead of milk. When the full al-
lowance of water has been added to the
chocolate the mixture should boil for ten
minutes, and be stirred continually.
Spanish Chocolate.
For one cup of chocolate scrape fine
two oblong divisions, and fully dissolve it
RECEIPTS.
in a very little boiling water,
cup of milk or water in a saucepan, and
when it is at the highest boiling-point add
the chocolate. Allow it to simmer for
five or ten minutes, but not to boil, stirring
all the time.
The Spanish method of making choco-
late is to mix it so thick that a spoon can
stand upright in the mixture.
Egg Chocolate.
Dissolve the chocolate in boiling water ;
beat the yolk of an egg to foam in a bowl,
and pour the chocolate slowly over it, stir-
ring constantly all the time.
Chocolate, one cake ; water, one cup ;
yolk of one egg.
German Egg Chocolate.
Put four ounces of fine chocolate, dis-
solved in a little hot water, into a perfectly
clean stewpan with three large cups of
water and one ounce of powdered sugar,
104 RECEIPTS.
and set it over the fire. Beat the yolks of
two eggs to foam in a cup of water, and
stir them, with fifteen drops of rose-water
and the same quantity of orange-flower-
water, into the chocolate as soon as it
begins to simmer. Let it stand a few
moments longer over the fire without boil-
ing, stirring it all the time ; then take it
off and serve it with biscuit or marchpau.
Chocolate, four ounces ; water, three
cups ; sugar, one ounce ; yolks of five
eggs ; rose-water, fifteen drops ; orange-
water, fifteen drops. Boil up once.
Parisian Egg Chocolate.
For three cups of chocolate dissolve
three ounces of the best chocolate in four
cups of water, and set it over the fire ; beat
the yolks of two eggs to foam, and stir
them into the chocolate as soon as it begins
to froth ; skim off the froth into warm
chocolate-cups until they are heaped full,
then hold a shovelful of burning coals to
RECEIPTS. 105
each till the froth is converted to a light
crust, when serve.
The chocolate froths better when finely
powdered sugar is mixed with the yolks
of eggs, and still better when froth-cakes
are added, prepared in the following man-
ner : —
Beat the whites of a dozen eggs to froth,
and stir in powdered sugar till the mass is
of the consistency of a stiff paste. Mould
the paste on a large plate into small cakes,
about the size and shape of an ordinary-
sized hazel-nut, and dry them in the sun
or in a warm room.
As soon as the egg-yolks have been
stirred into the chocolate add as many of
these cakes as there are cups of the liquid,
and continue to stir it until the whole mass
becomes froth. Care must be taken to
keep the chocolate near the boiling-point,
whether on or ofF the fire, without letting:
it boil over.
Chocolate, three ounces ; water, four
106 RECEIPTS.
cups ; yolks of eggs, two. Boil, and mill
to froth.
Wine Chocolate.
Set half a bottle of good white wine,
three ounces of chocolate, and one ounce
of powdered sugar over the fire ; beat the
yolks of four eggs to foam, with a little
wine, and add it to the chocolate as soon
as it begins to simmer; stir it for a few
minutes, then take it from the fire and
serve. This is an excellent winter bever-
age. — Dessert Book.
Chocolate Wine.
Infuse in a bottle of Madeira, Marsala or
raisin wine four ounces of chocolate, and
sugar if required. In three or four days
strain and bottle. — Confectioner's Jour-
nal.
PUDDINGS.
Chocolate Pudding (i).
Half a cake of chocolate grated (Baker's,
two cakes in one package) ; vanilla to
RECEIPTS. 107
flavor; small half pint of soda-cracker
crumbs ; butter size of an egg ; one-half
pint of boiled milk ; whites of six eggs ;
one-half cup of sugar ; salt ; boil in a mould
for one hour. To be eaten hot.
SAUCE.
Yolks of six eggs ; one tumbler of sherry-
wine ; one-half large cup of sugar ; beat
the yolks very light ; put the sugar in the
sherry, then heat the wine ; when it is very
hot add the beaten yolks ; stir quickly one
way until it thickens to a very rich cream.
To be eaten cold. — Choice Receipts,
Chocolate Pudding (2).
For six persons use one quart of milk,
one pint of stale bread, four eggs, one
ounce of grated chocolate, half a cupful of
granulated sugar, three tablespoonfuls of
powdered sugar, half a teaspoonful of
vanilla extract, and one teaspoonfu 1 of salt.
Soak the bread and milk together for
108 RECEIPTS.
two hours ; then mash the bread fine by-
pressing it with a spoon against the side
of the bowl. Put the chocolate, three
tablespoonfuls of the granulated sugar and
one tablespoonful of boiling water in a
small stewpan, and stir over a hot fire
until the liquid becomes smooth and glossy ;
now take from the fire and add a few
spoonfuls of bread and milk. Stir until
the mixture is thin and smooth ; then add
it to the bread and milk.
Beat the yolks and one white of the egg
with the remainder of the granulated sugar ;
add this mixture and the salt to the bread
and milk ; pour into a pudding-dish and
bake in a slow oven for forty minutes.
Now beat the three remaining whites to
a stiff, dry froth, and, with a spoon, beat
into them three tablespoonfuls of pow-
dered sugar and the vanilla. Spread this
meringue over the pudding and cook for a
quarter of an hour longer with the oven
door open. Serve with whipped cream.
RECEIPTS. 109
When it is inconvenient to use cream
the meringue will suffice as a sauce. If a
strong flavor of chocolate be liked use
two ounces instead of one. — Maria Par-
loa.
Chocolate Pudding (3).
One pint of rich milk ; two tablespoon-
fuls of corn-starch ; one scant half cup of
sugar ; whites of four eggs ; a little salt ;
flavoring ; beat the eggs to a stiff froth ;
dissolve the corn-starch in a little of the
milk ; stir the sugar into the remainder of
the milk, which place on the fire ; when
it begins to boil add the dissolved corn-
starch ; stir constantly for a few minutes,
when it will become a smootli paste ; now
stir in the beaten whites of the eggs, and
let it remain a little longer to cook the
eggs ; flavor the whole with vanilla ; now
take out a third of the pudding, flavor the
remainder in the kettle with a bar of choco-
late, softened, mashed, and dissolved with
110 RECEIPTS.
a little milk ; put half the chocolate pud-
ding in the bottom of a mould (which has
been wet with water) ; smooth the top ;
next make a layer with the white pudding
(the third taken out) ; smooth it also ;
next the remainder of the chocolate pud-
ding.
Serve with whipped cream, or a boiled
custard, made with the yolks of the eggs
and flavored with vanilla. — Mrs. Mary
F. Henderson.
Chocolate Pudding (4).
One quart milk ; three ounces grated
vanilla chocolate ; three tablespoonfuls of
corn starch ; two eggs ; half a cup pulver-
ized sugar : boil the milk ; stir in the
chocolate, starch, sugar, and beaten yolks
of the eggs ; bake ; when the pudding is
cold beat the whites of the two eggs to a
froth ; stir in half a cup of pulverized
sugar ; place this frosting on the pudding
and serve. — Choice Receipts.
RECEIPTS. Ill
Chocolate Mixture.
Five tablespoonfuls of grated chocolate
with enough cream or milk to wet it, one
cupful of sugar, and one egg well beaten.
Stir the ingredients over the fire until
thoroughly mixed ; then flavor with va-
nilla. — Mrs. Mary F. Henderson,
CAKE, ETC.
Chocolate Cake (i).
Two cups of sugar ; four tablespoonfuls
of butter rubbed in with the sugar ; four
eggs, whites and yolks beaten separately ;
one cup of sweet milk ; three heaping
cups of flour ; one teaspoonful of cream
tartar, sifted into flour; one-half teaspoon-
ful of soda melted in hot water ; bake in
jelly-cake tins.
FILLING.
Whites of two eggs, beaten to a froth ;
one cup of powdered sugar ; one-quarter
112 RECEIPTS.
pound of grated chocolate, wet in one
tablespoonful of cream ; one teaspoonful
vanilla ; beat the sugar into the whipped
whites, then the chocolate ; whisk all to-
gether hard for three minutes before add-
ing the vanilla ; let the cake get quite cold
before you spread it ; reserve a little of the
mixture for the top, and beat more sugar
into this to form a firm icing. — Marion
Harland.
Chocolate Cake (2).
Beat one and a quarter pounds of sugar
and ten ounces of butter to a cream ; whisk
the whites and the yolks of ten eggs sepa-
rately, after which mix and beat them
together, and add them gradually to the
sugar and butter ; now add and stir in six
ounces of cocoa-paste or chocolate grated
and melted in just sufficient boiling water
to form a thickish paste ; next add and stir
in one pint of milk, then add one and three-
quarter pounds of flour that has been thor-
RECEIPTS. 113
oughly sifted together with one and a half
ounces of Royal baking powder ; beat all
lightly and quickly to a smooth mass and
bake in buttered cake-pans in a quick oven ;
or it may be baked in layers in jelly-cake
pans, and filled with the following cream :
Take six ounces of sugar, two whole eggs,
and the yolks of three more, two or three
tablespoonfuls of grated chocolate, one
tablespoonful of corn-starch and one pint
of milk ; beat the sugar, the two eggs, and
the grated chocolate to a cream ; beat the
three yolks and the corn-starch together,
and then add them to the chocolate mixture
and work all together till smooth, then
stir in the milk and cook to a custard ;
when cold spread a layer of it over a sheet
of the cake, on top of which lay another
sheet of the cake, which spread in like
manner with custard, on top of which place
a third sheet of the cake, over which sift
finely powdered sugar. — Confectio?zer*s
Journal.
114 RECEIPTS.
Chocolate Cake (3).
One very full cup of butter ; two cups of
sugar ; three and a half cups of flour ; one
cup, not quite full, of milk ; five eggs ; one
teaspoonful cream of tartar ; half teaspoon-
ful soda. — Icing: Whites of two eggs;
one and a half cups of pulverized sugar ;
two teaspoonfuls of essence of vanilla ; six
tablespoonfuls of grated vanilla (Baker's)
chocolate ; beat the yolks of the five and
the whites of the three eggs separately,
until they are as light as they can be made ;
put the cream of tartar in the flour ; dis-
solve the soda in a little of the milk ; rub
the butter and sugar to a cream ; add the
eggs, milk, flour, and soda ; pour the mixt-
ure into a large, shallow pan, well but-
tered, and put it in the oven. While it is
baking make the icing by beating the
whites of the two eggs to a stiff froth, and
stir the sugar in well ; add the grated
chocolate and the essence of vanilla ; when
RECEIPTS. 115
the cake is done turn it out on a sieve ;
while hot put on the icing. — Choice Re-
ceipts,
Chocolate Cake (4).
One cup of butter ; two cups of sugar ;
three cups of flour ; half cup sweet milk ;
half teaspoonful soda ; one teaspoonful of
cream tartar ; seven eggs. — Chocolate
Cream: Quarter of a pound of Baker's
best vanilla chocolate ; one gill of sweet
milk ; one egg ; sugar to taste. Rub butter
and sugar together ; beat the seven eggs
until they are very light ; put the cream of
tartar in the flour and the soda in the milk ;
mix all well, and bake in four Washington-
pie plates. While this is baking scald the
gill of milk and the chocolate together;
beat one egg thoroughly and stir it in ; add
sugar to taste. When the cake is done
spread the chocolate cream between the
layers and upon the tops of the cakes. —
Choice Receipts*
116 RECEIPTS.
Chocolate Cake (5).
One cupful of butter ; two cupfuls of
sugar ; three cupfuls of flour ; one cupful
of milk ; four eggs well beaten ; one tea-
spoonful of soda ; two teaspoonfuls of cream
of tartar. Bake in Washington-pie plates.
Put a layer of the chocolate mixture between
and on the top and sides of the cake.
Chocolate Cake (6).
One cup of butter, two of sugar, three of
flour, four eggs, and a cup three-quarters
full of grated chocolate. Stir the butter
and sugar to a cream ; add the beaten yolks
of the eggs, beat well, then the whites
beaten to a stifF froth alternately with the
flour ; beat very hard ; stir in the chocolate
and bake in one large cake or in square tin
pans. — Sara T. Paul.
Chocolate Cakes (1).
The whites of eight eggs ; half a cake of
chocolate, grated ; one pound of sugar ; six
RECEIPTS. 117
ounces of flour ; beat the eggs to a stiff
froth, add the sugar, then stir in the choco-
late and flour. Butter flat tins, and drop
on the mixture, not too closely, as the cakes
will spread. Bake a few minutes in a
quick oven. — Sara T. Paul.
Chocolate Cakes (2).
Put the yolks of three eggs in a bowl,
with four ounces of powdered sugar ; beat
them well until slightly consistent, and add
to them an ounce and a half of flour, an
ounce of corn-starch, a few drops of extract
of vanilla, and mix all well together. Beat
up the whites of your eggs very stiff, and
stir them lightly with your other ingre-
dients. Put it in a cornucopia made of
stiff paper, with a hole in the end, through
which press it on a pan (on which you
have spread a sheet of white paper), and
form it into small rounds about the size of
a fifty-cent piece. Send them to a gentle
oven until they are quite firm ; then let
118 RECEIPTS.
them become cold, and cut them all the
same size with a small, round cutter.
Spread a layer of peach or other marma-
lade on the half of your cakes, which cover
with the other half. Melt about two ounces
of chocolate in about two tablespoonfuls
of water. Put in a saucepan on the fire
half a pound of sugar, with half a glass
of water; boil for about eight to ten
minutes ; lift out some of the sugar with
a spoon, drop it into cold water ; place it
between the thumb and third finger, and,
if you may draw the sugar out into a long
fine thread, without breaking, you have
reached the desired result ; then put your
chocolate in a bowl, add your sugar, stir-
ring until beginning to thicken. Take as
many little wooden skewers as you have
cakes, sharpen them to a fine point, stick
one into each cake, which dip into your
chocolate and sugar, covering it entirely.
Put a colander upside-down on a table, and
in the holes place the ends of your sticks,
RECEIPTS. 119
thereby allowing the cakes on the opposite
end to dry ; after which remove your cakes
from the sticks, and serve when needed. —
Pierre Car on.
Chocolate Macaroons.
Melt on a slow fire and in a tin pan three
ounces of chocolate without sugar (known
as Baker's chocolate) ; then work it to a
thick paste with one pound of pulverized
sugar and three whites of eggs. Roll the
mixture down to the thickness of about one-
quarter of an inch ; cut it in small round
pieces with a paste-cutter, either plain or
scalloped ; butter a pan slightly and dust
it with flour and sugar, half of each ; place
the pieces of paste or mixture in and bake
in a hot, but not quick oven. Serve cold.
— Pierre Blot,
Chocolate Tartlets.
Four eggs, half cake of Baker's chocolate,
grated ; one tablespoonful corn-starch, dis-
120 RECEIPTS.
solved in' milk; three tablespoonfuls of
milk ; four tablespoonfuls of white sugar ;
two tablespoonfuls of vanilla ; one-half tea-
spoonful of cinnamon and a little salt ; one
heaping teaspoonful of melted butter.
Rub the chocolate smooth in the milk ;
heat over the fire, and add the corn-starch
wet in more milk. Stir until thickened
and pour out. When cold beat in the
yolks and sugar with the flavoring. Bake
in open shells lining flate-pans. Cover
with a meringue made of the whites and a
little powdered sugar, when they are nearly
done, and let them color slightly. Eat
cold. — Marion Harland.
Chocolate Filling for Cake.
Half a cake of sweet chocolate grated,
half a cup of sweet milk, the same of
powdered sugar, the yolk of one egg, and a
tablespoonful of extract of vanilla. Stir the
chocolate in the milk, add the eggs, sugar,
and vanilla ; set it in a vessel of boiling
RECEIPTS. 121
water and stir until a stiff jelly. When
cold spread it between the layers of cake.
Used also as a frosting for cake. — Sara
T. Paul.
Chocolate Wafers.
Melt two pounds of cocoa-paste in a
warm iron mortar, and add to it one pound
of the finest powdered sugar, and a quarter
of a pound of fine vanilla sugar ; pound
these together with a warm pestle until
the cocoa and sugar are perfectly amalga-
mated ; if it should be too stiff add a little
melted cocoa-butter or sweet oil to it and
mix well in. Take a small bit of the paste
in the hand and roll it into a small ball ;
place these as formed, out of hand, upon
small sheets of glazed paper, in rows about
an inch apart. When you have placed a
dozen or two on a sheet take it by the ends
and lift it up and down a few times, letting
it touch the table each time ; this motion
will flatten the balls into wafers. When
122 RECEIPTS.
cold and concreted they may be easily re-
moved from the papers. There are various
tools for dropping these wafers to be ob-
tained at almost any of the confectionery
supply-depots. — Confectioner's Journal.
Chocolate Jumbles.
Take one pound of pulverized sugar,
half a pound of butter, half a pound of
chocolate, finely grated, eight eggs, a
tablespoonful of vanilla extract, and flour
sufficient. Beat the eggs and butter to a
cream ; add and beat in the eggs, then the
grated chocolate and vanilla ; then work
in flour till you have a dough stiff enough
to roll out. Dust the table with powdered
sugar, roll the dough half an inch thick,
and cut it into pieces about four inches
long, and form them into rings by joining
the ends. Lay them at a little distance
apart on buttered baking sheets and bake
in a moderate oven. — Confectioner's Jour-
nal.
RECEIPTS. 123
Chocolate Eclairs (i).
Put an ounce of butter in a saucepan on
the fire, with about six tablespoonfuls of
water. When beginning to boil add about
two and a half ounces of flour, stirring with
a wooden spoon about five minutes ; then
remove from the fire and add, one by one,
four eggs, stirring rapidly until each is
well mixed ; then put your mixture in a
cornucopia of stiff paper, with a hole in
the point, through which press it on a pan,
forming little shapes similar to lady-fin-
gers. Send them to a gentle oven for about
twenty minutes, or until firm ; let them be-
come cold ; then make an incision in them
the length of each through the middle. Put
in a saucepan two eggs, two tablespoonfuls
of corn-starch, two ounces of sugar, a glass
of milk, a teaspoonful of vanilla, and stir all
together on the fire. Just before beginning
to boil remove from the fire and let it become
cold ; then fill the inside of your eclairs with
your cream. Melt an ounce of chocolate
124 RECEIPTS.
in a tablespoonful of water, boil half a
pound of sugar as the foregoing, mix thor-
oughly with your chocolate, with which
cover your eclairs, — Pierre Caron.
Chocolate Eclairs (2).
Prepare a batter as for Boston cream
puffs, as follows : Take one pound of flour,
one ounce of sugar, one quart of cold
water, half a pound of butter, and sixteen
eggs ; put the water and butter into a
bright and clean round-bottomed sauce-
pan ; place on the fire, and as soon as the
water commences to boil remove it from
the fire, and immediately add and rapidly
stir in the flour and sugar. As soon as
these are well mixed and smooth add and
stir in the eggs, two or three at a time, till
all are thoroughly incorporated ; fill a
biscuit forcer or a meringue bag with the
batter, and press it out upon buttered bak-
ing-tins, in the same manner that you would
lady-fingers, making cakes of it about five
RECEIPTS. 125
inches long and about an inch in diameter.
Lay out these cakes at about two inches
apart on the tins, as they swell considera-
bly in baking ; bake in a hot oven. When
baked and cold make an opening on one
side of each cake and fill them with a soft-
ish custard, made as follows: Take a
quarter of a pound of powdered sugar,
two ounces of flour, the yolks of four or five
eggs, and one and a quarter pints of milk,
and a dessertspoonful of vanilla extract;
put the sugar, flour, and yolks into a
saucepan, stir them well together, then
slowly add and stir in the milk and flavor ;
set it upon the fire and stir constantly till
it thickens to a smooth custard. Before
filling the cakes the tops should be dipped
and covered with chocolate icing, made as
follows : Melt one or more ounces of choc-
olate with half a pint of water in a sauce-
pan, and add to it, when melted, three
ounces of fine sugar ; stir and boil for three
or four minutes, then remove it from the
126 RECEIPTS.
fire, and dip and cover the top of each
cake with this chocolate icing, or they may
be dipped in melted chocolate fondant.
— Confectioner's yournaL
Chocolate Eclairs (3).
Prepare some batter as for cream puffs,
fill a mering-uehzg with it, and press it
out upon a well-buttered baking-tin in
cakes about an inch wide and five inches
long. Let there be two inches between
each cake ; bake in a quick oven fifteen
to twenty minutes. When cold slit one
side, open carefully and fill with the cream
given above, and ice the top of each cake
with chocolate prepared as follows : Melt
two ounces of chocolate with a tablespoon-
ful of water ; add four ounces of powdered
sugar ; stir to a paste thick enough to
spread without running, and coat the top
of each cake with it, or dip the tops of the
cakes into it ; either way will do. — Con-
fectioner's Journal.
RECEIPTS. 127
CREAM, PIES, ETC.
Chocolate Cream Puffs.
Take half a pound of flour and one tea-
spoonful of sugar ; mix these together.
Put a pint of cold water and a quarter of a
pound of butter into a very clean sauce-
pan, set it on the fire, and as soon as it
boils remove it from the fire and throw in
the flour ; stir it very rapidly until well
mixed and smooth ; continue to beat and
stir for a minute or two longer. Now let
it rest for two or three minutes, and then
stir and beat in with a wooden spatula
eight eggs, two at a time, till all are used ;
the first require some little time to mix, on
account of the stiffness of the paste. When
all are thoroughly incorporated lay out
the paste by tablespoonfuls on buttered
tins, and about two inches apart each
way, and bake in a quick oven for fifteen
or twenty minutes. When cold cut open
128 RECEIPTS.
one side of the puff and fill it with the fol-
lowing cream or custard : —
Rub four ounces of sugar and four eggs
to a cream ; mix two ounces of flour in
gradually while stirring well. Mix and
stir one ounce of grated chocolate into one
quart of boiling-hot milk and a dessert-
spoonful of pure extract of vanilla. Pour
this into the egg mixture, set it on the fire
and stir constantly till it thickens, then
take it off and let it cool. — Confectioner' 's
Journal.
Chocolate Blanc-Mange (i).
One quart of milk ; one-half package of
gelatine, dissolved in one cup of cold water ;
one cup of sugar ; three great spoonfuls
grated chocolate ; vanilla to taste. Heat
the milk, stir in the sugar and soaked gela-
tine ; strain ; add chocolate, boil ten min-
utes, stirring all the time. When nearly
cold beat for five minutes or until it begins
to stiffen. Flavor, whip up once, and put
RECEIPTS. 129
into a wet mould. It will be firm in six
or eight hours. — Marion Harland,
Chocolate Blanc-mange and Cream (2).
Make the blanc-rriange as directed in last
receipt. Set it to form in a mould with a
cylinder in the centre. You can improvise
one by stitching together a roll of stiff paper
just the height of the pail or bowl in which
you propose to mould your blanc-mange,
and holding it firmly in the middle of this
while you pour the mixture around it.
The paper should be well buttered. Lay
a book or other light weight on the
cylinder to keep it erect. When the blanc-
mange is turned out slip out the paper,
and fill the cavity with whipped cream,
heaping some about the base. Specks of
bright jelly enliven this dish if disposed
tastefully upon the cream. — Marion Har-
land,
Chocolate Blanc-mange (3).
Grate a teacupful of chocolate ; add to it
130 RECEIPTS.
a pint of water and a teacup or more of
sugar ; let it simmer until the chocolate is
all dissolved ; add a quart of milk and one-
third of a paper of corn-starch mixed in
cold water. When the milk begins to boil
stir in the corn-starch ; boil it five minutes,
flavor with vanilla extract, and pour into
moulds. — Sara T. Paul,
Blanc-mange (4).
Half box gelatine ; one quart milk ; yolk
of two eggs ; one small teacupful of sugar ;
one large tablespoonful of vanilla ; seven
squares of Baker's chocolate. Dissolve
the gelatine in about a gill of cold water ;
let it stand for two hours. Grate the choco-
late fine, then dissolve it in a little of the
milk, slightly warmed ; scald the remainder
of the milk ; beat the yolks of the eggs and
sugar together until very light. When the
milk is well scalded, add the gelatine,
chocolate, eggs, and sugar. Let this sim-
mer gently for fifteen minutes. Strain the
RECEIPTS. 131
mixture into a mould. Set on ice. This
blanc-mange should be thoroughly cooked.
— Choice Receipts,
Chocolate Custards (baked).
One quart of good milk ; six eggs, yolks
and whites separated ; one cup sugar ; four
great spoonfuls grated chocolate ; vanilla
flavoring. Scald the milk ; stir in the
chocolate and simmer two minutes, to dis-
solve and incorporate well with the milk.
Beat up the yolks with the sugar and put
into the hot mixture. Stir for one minute
before seasoning and pouring into the cups,
which should be set ready in a pan of boil-
ing water. They should be half sub-
merged, that the water may not bubble
over the tops. Cook slowly about twenty
minutes, or until the custards are firm.
When cold whip the whites of the eggs to
a meringue with a very little powdered
sugar (most meringues are too sweet) and
pile some upon the top of each cup. Put
132 RECEIPTS.
a piece of red jelly on the mSringue. —
Marion Harland.
Chocolate Custards (boiled).
One quart of milk ; six eggs, whites and
yolks separately beaten ; one cup of sugar ;
four large spoonfuls grated chocolate ; va-
nilla to taste, a teaspoonful to the pint is a
good rule. Scald the milk, stir in sugar
and chocolate. Boil gently five minutes,
and add the yolks. Cook five minutes
more, or until it begins to thicken up well,
stirring all the time. When nearly cold
beat in the flavoring, and whisk all briskly
for a minute before pouring into the cus-
tard-cups. Whip up the whites with a
little powdered sugar, or, what is better,
half a cup of currant or cranberry jelly, and
heap upon the custards. — Marion Har-
land.
Chocolate Custards.
One quart of milk ; one ounce of Baker's
best French chocolate ; eight eggs ; two
RECEIPTS. 133
teaspoonfuls of vanilla ; eight teaspoonfuls
of white sugar. Beat the eight yolks and
the two whites of the eggs until they are
light. Boil the milk ; when boiling stir
the chocolate and the sugar into it, and
then put it into a clean pitcher. Place this
in a pot of boiling water ; stir one way
gently all the time until it becomes a thick
cream ; when cold strain it and add the
vanilla ; place it in cups ; beat the whites of
the eggs to a stiff froth, and add the sugar
to them ; beat well, and place some of this
frosting on the top of each custard. —
Choice Receipts.
Chocolate Bavarian Cream.
Whip one pint of cream to a stiff froth,
laying it on a sieve ; boil a pint of rich
milk with a vanilla bean and two table-
spoonfuls* of sugar until it is well flavored ;
then take it off the fire and add half a box
of Nelson's or Coxe's gelatine, soaked for
an hour in half a cupful of water in a
134 RECEIPTS.
warm place near the range ; when slight-
ly cooled add two tablets of chocolate,
soaked and smoothed. Stir in the eggs
well beaten. When it has become quite
cold, and begins to thicken, stir it without
ceasing a few minutes, until it is very-
smooth ; then stir in the whipped cream
lightly until it is well mixed. Put it into
a mould or moulds, and set it on ice or in
some cool place. — Mrs. Blair.
Chocolate Souffles.
Three ounces of grated chocolate, one
ounce of sugar, one ounce of butter, one
ounce of flour, one gill of milk, yolks of
three eggs, whites of four eggs. Butter
and bind around a pint and a half souffle-
tin a band of paper to form a wall above
the tin, and confine the souffle as it rises.
Butter also the interior of the tin.
Melt the butter in a small saucepan, stir
into it the flour, and, adding the milk, stir
all until boiling. When boiling take the
RECEIPTS. 135
saucepan from the fire, throw into it the
chocolate and the sugar, and drop in the
yolks of the eggs, one by one, stirring all
meantime.
Whip the whites of the eggs to a stiff
froth and stir this in also very lightly.
Pour the mixture into the souffle-tin,
which should make it about two thirds
full, and place the tin into a deep saucepan
containing sufficient water to reach half-
way up the sides of the form. Cover the
saucepan, and drawing it aside from the
fire allow the water to simmer therein for
thirty minutes, keeping it all the time
covered.
When steamed take the souffle from the
saucepan, transfer it quickly to a silver
soziffle-dish, or fold round the tin in which
it is prepared a napkin, and serve at once,
carrying the dish upon a hot shovel if the
dining-room be distant from the kitchen.
— Matilda Lees Dods, of the South Ken-
sing-ton School of Cookery.
136 RECEIPTS.
Chocolate Meringue.
To one quart of boiling milk add half an
ounce of isinglass dissolved in hot water ;
add half a pound of Baker's chocolate,
grated ; sweeten ; simmer until it becomes
a rich jelly ; stir while boiling. Line but-
tered pans with rich paste ; pour in the
mixture ; bake until the pastry is cooked ;
then let it cool. Beat the whites of four
eggs to a stiff froth ; sweeten ; spread it
over the pies with a knife ; bake a light
brown. — Flora Neely,
Chocolate Creams (i).
Soak one box of gelatine in cold water
enough to cover it one hour.
Put one quart of rich milk into a tin
pail, and set it in a kettle with hot water
to boil. Scrape two ounces of French
chocolate, and mix with eight spoonfuls
of sugar ; wet this with two spoonfuls of
the boiling milk, and rub with the bowl
RECEIPTS. 137
of the spoon until a smooth paste, then
stir into the boiling milk ; now stir in the
gelatine, and then stir in the yolks of ten
•well-beaten eggs ; stir three minutes, take
off and strain ; set in a pan of ice-water ;
stir for ten minutes, then add two spoon-
fuls of vanilla, and put into blanc-mange
moulds ; set away on the ice for three
hours. Serve with sugar and cream. — M.
Parloa.
Chocolate Creams (2).
Inside: Two cups of sugar; one cup
of water ; one and a half tablespoonfuls
of arrow-root ; one teaspoonful of vanilla.
Outside : Half a pound of Baker's choco-
late. — Directions. For inside: Mix the
ingredients, except the vanilla ; let them
boil from five to eight minutes ; stir all the
time. After this is taken from the fire
stir until it comes to a cream. When it
is nearly smooth add the vanilla and make
the cream into balls. For outside: Melt
138 RECEIPTS.
the chocolate, but do not add water to it.
Roll the cream balls into the chocolate
while it is warm. — Choice Receipts,
Cream Chocolates.
Factitious foitdant, or cream, is made by
mixing the finest powdered sugar with
glucose and a little extract of vanilla in a
bowl, and working them together in the
same manner as you would mix the whites
of eggs and sugar for making icing, only
there must be worked in sufficient to form
a softish paste or dough that can be rolled
into small balls with the hands ; these are
to be afterwards dipped in melted choco-
late and laid on paper until the chocolate
concretes. — Confectioner'' s Journal.
Chocolate Fondant, or Cream.
Take, say, four pounds of sugar, one
quart of water, half a pound of cocoa-
paste grated, and sufficient vanilla extract
to flavor highly. Boil these to the feather,
RECEIPTS. 139
36° by the saccharometer, 240 by thermom-
eter ; then pour it upon a scrupulously
clean marble slab. When it has become
nearly cold turn or scrape in the edges,
and with a long-handled spatula work it
vigorously and steadily to and fro ; it
granulates into a smooth mass ; then with
a knife scrape it all together, and break
it — that is, work or knead it — with
the hands, until it forms a softish, dough-
like mass ; then keep it in an earthen or
stone- ware jar or tureen, covered from the
air. It is now ready for any future oper-
ation to which you may wish to apply it. —
Confectioner 's Journal.
Chocolate Charlotte Russe.
Having soaked in cold water an ounce
of gelatine, shave down three ounces of
Baker's chocolate, and mix it gradually
into a pint of cream, adding the dissolved
and strained gelatine. Set the cream,
chocolate, and gelatine over the fire, in a
140 RECEIPTS.
porcelain kettle, and boil it slowly for
three or four minutes.
Take off the fire, and let it cool. Have
ready eight yolks of eggs and four
whites beaten all together until very light,
and stir them gradually into the mixture,
in turn with half a pound of powdered
sugar. Simmer the whole over the fire
for a few minutes, but do not let it quite
boil ; then take it off, and whip it to a
strong froth. Line your moulds with
sponge cake, and set them on ice.
Chocolate Custard Pies.
Simmer one quart of milk ; add a quar-
ter of a pound of Baker's chocolate, grated ;
sweeten to taste ; beat in four well-beaten
eggs. Line deep pie-pans with rich paste ;
pour in the mixture. Bake in moderately
quick oven.
Chocolate Pie (rich).
To one pint of boiling milk add one
RECEIPTS. 141
tablespoonful of rice-flour ; the yolks of five
eggs, well beaten ; a little salt ; one pint
of cream ; sweeten to taste ; quarter of a
pound grated chocolate (Baker's) well
dried ; let them boil, stirring ; let it cool.
Line deep buttered tins, pour in the mixt-
ure and bake. — Flora Neely.
Ice Cream (i).
Mix the yolks of four eggs with one pint
of boiling milk ; one quart of cream ; four
ounces of chocolate dissolved in one pint
of hot water ; sweeten to taste ; flavor with
extract of vanilla. Whisk thoroughly over
the fire until thick and smooth ; when cool
freeze.
Ice Cream (2).
To each quart of cream one tablespoon-
ful of sweet chocolate, to be dissolved in a
small quantity of cream (or water) and
added when the cream is partly frozen. —
Flora Neely,
142 RECEIPTS.
Chocolate Ice Cream (3).
Prepare a mixture as for vanilla ice
cream. Melt four ounces of chocolate in
half a glass of water, on the fire ; add it
to your mixture, strain it through a sieve,
and freeze. — Pierre Caron.
Chocolate Ice Cream (4).
Boil one quart of milk ; grate half a
pound of vanilla chocolate, and stir into
the milk ; let it boil until thick ; add a
quarter of a pound of sugar. When cool
add one quart of cream ; stir well and pour
into the freezer. — The Dessert Book.
Chocolate Ice Cream (5).
To three pints of cream take one of new
milk, two eggs, a teacupful of grated choc-
olate, two coffee-cups of powdered sugar,
a teaspoonful of corn-starch and one of ex-
tract of vanilla. Beat the eggs, stir them
in the milk ; add the corn-starch and sugar.
Let them come to aboil, take them quickly
RECEIPTS. 143
from the fire ; dissolve the chocolate in a
little milk over the fire, stir it all the time.
When perfectly smooth mix it with the
milk and eggs, then add the cream and
vanilla ; if not sweet enough, more sugar.
When cold put it in the freezer.
Chocolate Cream Drops.
One cake of vanilla chocolate ; three cups
of powdered sugar ; one cup of soft water ;
two tablespoonfuls corn-starch or arrow-
root ; one tablespoonful butter ; two tea-
spoonfuls vanilla. Wash from the butter
every grain of salt ; stir the sugar and water
together ; mix in the corn-starch and bring to
a boil, stirring constantly to induce granula-
tion. Boil about ten minutes, when add the
butter. Take from the fire and beat as you
would eggs until it begins to look like gran-
ulated cream. Put in the vanilla; butter
your hands well, make the cream into balls
about the size of a large marble, and lay
upon a greased dish.
144 RECEIPTS.
Meanwhile the chocolate should have
been melted by putting it (grated fine) into
a tin pail or saucepan and plunging it into
another of boiling water. When it is a
black syrup add about two tablespoonfuls
of sugar to it, beat smooth, turn out upon
a hot dish, and roll the cream balls in it
until sufficiently coated. Lay upon a cold
dish to dry, taking care that they do not
touch one another. — Marion Harland.
Chocolate Caramels (i).
One cup rich, sweet cream ; one cup
brown sugar ; one cup white sugar ; seven
tablespoonfuls vanilla chocolate ; one table-
spoonful corn-starch stirred into the cream ;
one tablespoonful butter ; vanilla flavoring ;
soda the size of a pea stirred into cream.
Boil all the ingredients except the chocolate
and vanilla extract half an hour, stirring to
prevent burning. Reserve half of the cream
and wet up the chocolate in it, adding a very
little water if necessary. Draw the sauce-
RECEIPTS. 145
pan to the side of the range, and stir this
in well ; put back on the fire, and boil ten
minutes longer, quite fast, stirring constant-
ly. When it makes a hard, glossy coat on
the spoon it is done. Add the vanilla after
taking it from the range. Turn into shallow-
dishes well buttered. When cold enough
to retain the impression of the knife cut into
squares. — Marion Harland.
Chocolate Caramels (2).
One cupful of best syrup ; one cupful of
brown sugar ; one cupful of white sugar ;
two cupfuls of grated chocolate ; two cup-
fuls of cream vanilla ; one teaspoonful of
flour mixed with cream. Rub the choco-
late to a smooth paste with a little of the
cream ; boil all together half an hour, and
pour it into flat dishes to cool. Mark it
with a knife into little squares when it is
cool enough. — Mrs. Mary F. Henderson,
Cream Chocolate Caramel (3.)
Make a six-pound batch of chocolate car-
146 RECEIPTS.
am el ; pour it out in as square a form as
possible upon a greased marble slab (with-
out iron bars) ; let it spread out as thin as
it will, and when it becomes cold run the
candy sword under it in order to loosen it
from the slab ; then mark it crosswise
through the centre of the batch, and pour
thickly melted fondant over one-half the
surface ; then take the uncovered half by
the end, using both hands, and quickly
throw it over the creamed portion. Press
this top sheet down upon the other all
around the edges, then, with a caramel
cutter, cut the batch into small square
tablets. In this manner the cream is en-
closed in the centre of each tablet. — Con-
fectioner's Journal.
Chocolate Candy.
One cup of molasses, two of sugar, one
of milk, one-half of chocolate, a piece of
butter half the size of an egg.
Boil the milk and molasses together,
RECEIPTS. 147
scrape the chocolate fine, and mix with
just enough of the boiling milk and mo-
lasses to moisten ; rub it perfectly smooth,
then, with the sugar, stir into the boiling
liquid ; add the butter, and boil twenty
minutes. Try as molasses candy, and if
it hardens pour into a buttered dish. Cut
the same as nut-candy. — M. Parloa.
Creme de Cacao.
Infuse five ounces of Caracas cocoa-
nibs, crushed ; one bean of Vera Cruz
vanilla, split and cut into small pieces ;
quarter ounce of cinnamon, and one drop of
essence of almond, in one quart of brandy,
or deodorized alcohol, for ten days. Strain,
press ; then filter clear, and add one quart
of clarified syrup. Bottle and cork well.
— Confectioner } s Journal,
Chocolate Parfait Amour.
Dissolve half a pound of chocolate highly
flavored with vanilla in sufficient water.
In a bottle of brandy digest one ounce of
148 RECEIPTS.
bruised cinnamon, half an ounce of cloves,
and a pinch of salt. In three days add the
dissolved chocolate ; macerate one week,
closely corked ; then strain clear. — Con-
fectioner's Journal,
Bavaroise au Chocolate.
Mix one egg and two ounces of pow-
dered sugar with one pint of milk or cream ;
place it on the fire and stir until it is about
to boil ; then instantly remove and add a
gill of well-made, rich chocolate and a tea-
spoonful of extract of vanilla. Pour it into
pint tumblers and serve. Zwieback, nice
and fresh, is generally served with the
chocolate bavaroise, — Confectioner' 's
Journal,
Chocolate Syrup.
Mix eight ounces of chocolate in one
quart of water, and stir, and melt thor-
oughly over a slow fire. Strain and add
four pounds of white sugar. — Confec-
tioner's Journal,
RECEIPTS. 149
Chocolate Syrup for Soda Water.
Baker's chocolate (plain) , four ounces ;
boiling water, four ounces ; water, twenty-
eight ounces ; sugar, thirty ounces ; extract
of vanilla, one-half ounce. Cut the choco-
late into small pieces, then add the boiling
water, and stir briskly until the mixture
forms into a thick paste, and assumes a
smooth and uniform appearance ; then
slowly add the remainder of the water,
stirring at the same time, and set aside until
cold. After cooling thoroughly, a layer of
solid grease forms over the surface, which
is to be carefully removed by skimming.
After this is completed add the sugar, dis-
solved by the aid of a gentle heat, and allow
the whole to come to a boil. Then strain
and add the extract of vanilla. This forms
a syrup which is perfect. It possesses the
pure, rich flavor of the chocolate without
the unpleasant taste which is obtained if the
solid fat is not removed. — M. Michaelis.
150 RECEIPTS.
Chocolate Icing or Coating.
Put one pound of the best sugar in a
copper pan and boil to the blow, or thirty-
four degrees ; place the bottom of the pan in
cold water (contained in a saucepan) to cool,
until the sugar begins to set at the bottom
and sides of the pan. Put a quarter of a
pound of fine chocolate or cocoa paste with
half a gill of water in a pan ; place it in the
mouth of the oven, or on a very slow fire,
until it is thoroughly melted, stirring con-
stantly ; add half a gill of simple syrup, and
work until it is entirely smooth, then add it
to the boiled sugar. Mix well and ice or
cover your cakes. In a few minutes they
will become dry. — Confectioner's Journal,
Chocolate Whip (i).
One ounce of cocoa-paste, scraped fine,
added to one quart of rich cream and half
a pound of pulverized sugar ; place on the
pan and bring it to the boiling-point, stir-
RECEIPTS. 151
ring constantly with a whisk ; then remove
it, and when cold add the whites of four
eggs and whisk briskly ; remove the froth
with a perforated skimmer, and lay it upon
a hair sieve to drain. When you have
sufficient froth, or whip, fill your glasses
or cups three-fourths full of the cream and
pile the whip on the top of them ; sprinkle
a little vanilla sugar, or powdered cinna-
mon, on the whip, and serve.
Chocolate Whip (2).
Dissolve two ounces of cocoa-paste, on a
moderate fire, in half a tumbler of boiling
water, and when cold add it to the cream
together with six ounces of fine sugar.
Whip and finish as above.
Chocolate Drops, with Nonpareils.
Warm some sweet chocolate by pound-
ing it in a hot iron mortar ; when it is
reduced to a malleable paste make it into
balls, about the size of a small marble, by
rolling a little in the hand. Place them
152 RECEIPTS.
on sheets of white paper about an inch
apart. When the sheet is covered, take it
by the corners and lift it up and down,
letting it touch the table each time, which
will flatten them. Cover the surface en-
tirely with white nonpareils, and shake off
the surplus one. The bottom of the drops
should be about as broad as a five-cent piece.
— Confectioner* s Journal,
ADVERTISEMENT.
Established in the Year 1780.
WALTER BAKER & CO.,
DORCHESTER, MASS.,
MANUFACTURERS OF
CHOCOLATE, BROMA, AND OTHER
PREPARATIONS FROM COCOA.
SEVENTEEN MEDALS AND DIPLOMAS
RECEIVED FROM THE GREAT IN-
TERNATIONAL AND OTHER
EXHIBITIONS.
156 ADVERTISEMENT.
Frequent analyses have been made, under the
direction of Boards of Health and sanitary asso-
ciations in our large cities, to determine the
purity of chocolate and cocoa preparations sold
in this country, and in every such analysis the
articles manufactured by
WALTER BAKER & CO.,
are reported to be entirely pure and free from
the admixture of deleterious substances.
BAKER'S PREMIUM No. 1
CHOCOLATE,
In i-lb. packages, blue wrapper, yellow label,
Is the fresh roasted cocoa-beans carefully selected
and prepared, then moulded into cakes. It is
the very best preparation of plain chocolate in
the market for family use. Celebrated for more
than a century as a nutritive, salutary, and de-
licious beverage.
ADVERTISEMENT. 157
BAKER'S VANILLA CHOCOLATE,
In 1-2 lb. packages,
Is guaranteed to consist solely of choice cocoa
and sugar, flavored with pure vanilla beans.
Particular care is taken in its preparation, and a
trial will convince one that it is really a delicious
article for eating or drinking. It is equal to any
of the imported chocolates. For tourists and
those who wish a very pleasant article for eating
dry, and without any preparation, it is the best.
GERMAN SWEET CHOCOLATE,
In 1-4 lb. packages,
Is one of the most popular sweet chocolates
sold anywhere. It is palatable, nutritious, and
healthful. It is a great favorite with children,
and an excellent substitute for much of the con-
fectionery now offered to the public.
Beware of Imitations, The Genuine is
Stamped S, German, Dorchester, Mass,
158 ADVERTISEMENT.
BAKER'S PREPARED COCOA,
In 1-2 pound packages, yellow label,
Is a perfectly pure and refreshing beverage, pre-
pared exclusively from selected cocoa. It is safely
recommended to those who wish a wholesome
preparation, combining all the properties of the
cocoa-beans. It has for nearly a century been a
standard article of consumption.
BAKER'S CRACKED COCOA, OR
COCOA NIBS,
In 1-2 and i lb. packages and 6 and io lb. bags,
Is the fresh roasted bean cracked into small pieces.
It contains no admixture, and presents the full
flavor of the cocoa-bean in all its natural fragrance
and purity. When properly prepared it is one
of the most economical drinks. Dr. Lankester
says cocoa contains as much flesh-forming matter
as beef.
ADVERTISEMENT. 159
BAKER'S BROMA,
In 1-2 lb. packages (tin),
Is a preparation of pure cocoa and other highly
nutritious substances, pleasantly flavored and
sweetened. It contains a large proportion of
theobromine, and possesses powerful restorative
qualities. Its delicacy of flavor and perfect solu-
bility have made it a favorite drink among
thousands.
The Medical Gazette says: " Broma, an ad-
mirable preparation, alike agreeable to the well
and the sick, has acquired a reputation which we
think it certainly deserves. Hospitals, infirma-
ries, and households generally, should always
be provided with it. When gruel, arrow-root, and
many other things ordinarily resorted to for
patients are of no utility, broma is sometimes
relished and assimilates well. Medical men of
all shades of opinion recommend it to their
patients instead of tea or coffee.
160 ADVERTISEMENT.
BAKER'S BREAKFAST COCOA,
In 1-2 lb. packages (tin),
Is made from selected cocoa, with the excess of
butter of cacao removed, and guaranteed to be
absolutely pure. It is more than three times the
strength of other cocoas, making an economical,
excellent, and delicious beverage for breakfast
or supper,
Costing less than One Cent a Cup.
A general favorite with all who have tried it.
When purchasing be sure that your grocer sup-
plies you with BAKER'S BREAKFAST
COCOA, as there are imitations offered at a
lower price.
A prominent and experienced New York phy-
sician says : " Experience from many years'
practice in the treatment of lung diseases has
convinced me that, as an article of diet for those
ADVERTISEMENT. 161
suffering ivith any form of consumption, chocolate
is far preferable to tea or coffee ; in fact, the two
last-mentioned articles are injurious in manj
cases, while chocolate, being an aliment and
analeptic, is particularly serviceable where diges-
tion has been impaired by disease. Having
examined several specimens of chocolate I find
that Baker's may be conscientiously recom-
mended to invalids."
COCOA-BUTTER,
In 1-4 lb. cakes.
One-half the weight of the cocoa-beans consists
of a fat called Cocoa-Butter, from its resemblance
to ordinary butter. It is considered a great value
as a nutritious, strengthening tonic, being pre-
ferred to cod-liver oil and other nauseous fats so
often used in pulmonary complaints. As a
soothing application to chapped hands and lips
and all irritated surfaces Cocoa-Butter has no
equal, making the skin remarkably soft and
162 ADVERTISEMENT.
smooth. Many who have used it say they would
not be without it, it is such a useful article to
have in every household.
COCOA-SHELLS,
In i -lb. packages.
Cocoa-Shells are the thin outer covering of
the beans. They have a flavor similar to but
milder than cocoa. Their very low price places
them within the reach of all, and as a pleasant
and healthy drink they are considered superior
to tea and coffee.
Packed only in one-pound papers, with our
label and name on them.
RACAHOUT DES ARABES,
In boxes, 6 lbs. each, — 1-2 lb. bottles.
This celebrated preparation is a most nutri-
tious substance, and has become indispensable
ADVERTISEMENT. 163
as an article of diet for children, convalescents,
ladies, and delicate or aged persons; is com-
posed of the best nutritive and restoring sub-
stances, suitable for the most delicate system.
It is now a favorite breakfast beverage for
ladies and young -persons, to whom it gives fresh-
ness and embonpoint. It has solved the prob-
lem of medicine, by imparting something which
is easily digestible, and at the same time free
from the exciting qualities of coffee and tea, —
thus making it especially desirable for nervous
persons, or those afflicted with weak stomachs.
Racahout has a very agreeable flavor, is easily
prepared, and has received the commendation of
eminent Physicians, as being the best article
known for convalescents, and all persons desir-
ing a light, digestible, nourishing, and strength-
ening food.
164 ADVERTISEMENT.
GOODS FOR CONFECTIONERS' USE.
W. BAKER & CO.'S CARACAS LIQUOR,
in cases, 100 lbs. each.
W. BAKER & CO.'S MARACAE30
LIQUOR, in cases, 100 lbs. each.
EAGLE PURE CHOCOLATE LIQUOR,
in cases, 100 lbs. each.
ALSO
W. BAKER & CO.'S COCOA and SHELLS,
in bags, 12 and 25 lbs. each.
W. BAKER & CO.'S COCOA-PASTE, in
boxes, 12 lbs. each.
VANILLA CHOCOLATE TABLETS
(for eating), in boxes, 7 lbs. each.
ADVERTISEMENT. 165
MEDALS AND DIPLOMAS
AWARDED TO
WALTER BAKER & CO.
The World's Industrial Exposition, New Or-
leans, 1S84.
Southern Exposition, Louisville, 1883.
Mechanics' Institute, Boston, 1878.
Paris Exposition, 1878.
Mechanics' Institute, San Francisco, 1877.
U.S. Centennial Exhibition, 1876.
Vienna Exposition, 1873.
Mechanics' Institute, New Orleans, 1871.
Paris Exposition, 1867.
Mechanics' Institute, Cincinnati, 1855.
Maryland Institute, 1853.
Crystal Palace Exhibition, N.Y., 1853.
American Institute, N.Y., 1853.
Franklin Institute, Philadelphia, 1853.
Mechanics' Institute, Boston, 1853.
Maryland Institute, Baltimore, 1852.
Smithsonian Institution, Washington.
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