THE UBRARY Of V8VS8V9 W1NVS \ THE iiBRflRr Of WIN8OJI1V3 JO \ SANTA BARBARA o THE 8 SANTA BARBARA Of CALIFORNIA JO ASVS9H 3H1 \ tHf UBRARY O' o VINXOillO JO ift 1 I S 1 I o 1 1 i i i i3 ft ?>)V88M? ViNVS OF CALIFORNIA 5/iNTA BARBARA Of CALIFORNIA ^ ' I JO AavaBIl 3H1 ?ME UNIVERSITY THE tIBSARV OF DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, AND GARMENT DYER. THE PRACTICAL MY CLEANER, SCOURER, AND GARMENT DYER: COMPRISING DRY OR CHEMICAL CLEANING; PURIFICATION OF BENZINE; REMOVING STAINS; WET CLEANING; FINISHING CLEANED FABRICS; CLEANING AND DYEING FURS, SKIN RUGS AND MATS; CLEANING AND DYEING FEATHERS; BLEACHING AND DYEING STRAW HATS; CLEANING AND DYEING GLOVES; GARMENT DYEING; STRIPPING; ANALYSIS OF TEXTILE FABRICS. EDITED BY WILLIAM T. BRANNT, EDITOR OF "THE TECHNO-CHEslrCAL RECEIPT BOOK." SECOND EDITION, IN GREAT PART RE-WRITTEN AND MUCH ENLARGED. ILLUSTRATED BY TWENTY-ONE ENGRAVINGS. PHILADELPHIA: HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO. INDUSTRIAL PUBLISHERS, BOOKSELLERS, AND IMPORTERS 810 WALNUT STREET 1907 COPYRIGHT, BY HENEY CAKEY BAIRD & CO. 1907 / r PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION. IN preparing this edition of THE PRACTICAL SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER, the original scope of the work, which is that of a handbook on the processes employed by the Cleaning and Dyeing Trades, has been adhered to, and the text on which the book is now based is expressed in the title THE PRACTICAL DRY CLEANER, SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER. It may, however, be well to point out that in this edition the subject of Dry Cleaning has been treated with greater amplitude than in the old one, and that the section Cleaning and Dyeing Furs, Skin Rugs and Mats here given, appears now for the first time. It has been endeavored to bring the matter of the work to the level of the latest developments, which necessitated the rewriting to a great extent of every section, so as to bring the book up to date, and render it serviceable as a reference and guide to the processes and improvements which have from time to time been introduced, and practically applied either at home or abroad. The aim has been to describe clearly and in detail the various operations, and to give reliable receipts for the removal of stains, as well as for the bleaching and dyeing of various fabrics, v\hich will yield the VI PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION. results indicated. In doing this numerous foreign and domestic books and journals bearing on the various subjects have been consulted and drawn on. Still, knowing the difficulties that present them- selves in the application of receipts in practical working, due to differences in the mode of manipu- lation, as well as to differences which exist between the various samples of what are, nominally, the same materials, satisfactory results may not always in the first instance be obtained. Nevertheless the receipt should not be condemned, but another trial should be made which, with the exercise of a little care in working, will ensure success. The Table of Contents and the Index have both been carefully prepared, and being very full, will make reference to any subject in the volume easy and satisfactory. WILLIAM T. BRANNT. PHILADELPHIA, September ij, 1907. CONTENTS. i. DRY OR CHEMICAL CLEANING. PACK Discovery, in 1866, by M. Judlin, of the detergent powers of ben- zine: Reasons for the success of dry cleaning; Betterment of social conditions by chemical cleaning I Value of chemical cleaning for certain purposes; Origin of the phrase "dry cleaning;" Real definition of dry or chemical cleaning 2 Solvents which may be used in dry cleaning; Constitution of many stains in garments; Advantages of dry cleaning over the older methods 3 Benzine and its properties; Benzine as a solvent for oils and greases; Mttbod for testing benzine 4 Chemical nature of benzine; Addition of soap to benzine to in- crease its cleaning power 5 Dr. M. Richtcr's discovery of antibenzirpyrine; Classification of oleates soluble in benzine; Power of the acid oleates to absorb waier 6 Solubility of benzine soaps; Cause of the decomposition of ben- zine soaps; Preparation of antibenzinpyrine 7 Benzul or benzine and its properties 8 Method of distinguishing benzine from benzol; Turpentine and mode of obtaining it 9 Properties and varieties of turpentine 10 Carbon tetrachloride or tetracbloromenthane, and its properties., n Advantages of the use of carbon tetrachloride over that of benzine. 12 Storage of carbon tetrachloride. 13 Dangers of benzine and other sojvents in dry cleaning; Pre- cautions to be used 14 Conditions under which combustion and explosion can take place; Danger of using benzine or gasoline in ordinary dwelling houses; Necessity of covering all vessels containing inflam- mable liquids 15 (Vii) viii CONTENTS. PAGE Indication of spontaneous ignition; Means of lessening the risk of fire and explosion and provision for rr.inimizing these effects; Ammonia as a fire extinguishing agent 16 Cause of ignition by electric sparks; Dr. W. Richter's observa- tions on spontaneous firing; Regulations regarding dry-cleaning establishments in Paris 17 Increasing the content of moisture in the air as a means to de- crease danger from fire; Prevention of ignition by electric sparks by the addition of soap to the benzine; Quantity of soap required for that purpose 18 The cleaning process; Goods suitable for the dry process; Goods less suitable and not suitable for dry cleaning 19 Means of removing dust from garments; Preparation of articles for dry cleaning 20 Necessity of th< roughly drying the garments previous to cleaning; Mode of freeing benzine from moisture : 21 Process of dry cleaning suitable lor s nailer establishments; Ves- sels used for the purpose; Making a tampion 22 Draining and drying the articles 23 Apparatus for draining the articles; Washing silk articles 24 Machines requited for working on a larger scale; Benzine wash- ing machines; Power-driven washing machine, described and illustrated 25 Cylinder or cage of the machine, described and illustrated 26 Washing machine for hand power, illustrated; Washing the articles 27 Cincinnati hand extractor, described and illustrated 28 Table for brushing garments, described and illustrated; Heating the evaporating mom 79 Cleaning white woolen and silk goods, and white goods 30 Cleaning colored silks 31 Cleaning and renovating real velvet goods 32 Steaming velvet goods 33 Restoring lustre to articles which may have become dull; Velvet- steamers 34 Method of steaming velvet; Chemical cleaning of carpets; Re- storing the dressing on the back of a rug 35 Purification of benzine; Filtering, and apparatus for this purpose. 36 Purification of benzine with sulphuric acid '* 37 CONTENTS. ix PACE Hasselbach's method of clarifying benzine; Deodorization of benzine 38 Purification of benzine by distillation; Superiority of distilled benzine 39 Steam generators; Precautions in purifying benzine by distilling. 40 Practical benzine distiller, described and illustrated 41 Improved benzine still, described and illustrated 42 Putification of benzine previous to distillation; Apparatus for dis- tilling benzine thus purified, described and illustrated 43 II. REMOVING STAINS. On what the process of removing stains depends; Necessity of ascertaining the cause of the stain 47 Tools required for the removal of stains; Removal of stains from white goods 48 Use of water for the removal of stains; Chief cleaning agents used; Ether, and its properties 49 Mode of testing ether; Chloroform and its properties, and mode of testing it 50 Alcohol, and its properties; Ammonia, and its properties 51 Benzme; Carbon letrachloiide; Acetic acid, and its properties .. 52 Fusel oil; Glycerine, and its properties: Borax, and i's properties. 53 Adulteration of borax; Hyposulphite of sodium, and its properties. 54 Stannous chloride or tin salt, and its properties; Chloride of lime, and its properties; Preparation of eau de Javelle 55 Various bleaching fluids; Chlorine water; Tartaric acid, and its properties; Citric acid, and its properties 56 Oxalic acid, and its properties; Acid oxalate or binoxalate of potassium, or salt of sorrel; Hydrochloric acid; Ox -gall, and mode of purifying it 57 Treatment of stains in dust coats, morning dresses, rain coa's, etc.; Removal of stains in velvet and plush; Scouring water, and its preparation 58 Operation of removing stains; Auxiliary agents for the rapid absorption of water 59 Scouring water for the removal of stains which have not been dis- solved in dry cleaning; Soap for the removal of wine and vinegar stains 60 X CONTENTS. Soap f OI t k e remova l of all kinds of stains; Soap for the removal of stains from silk; Preservation of ox-gall; Soap for silk tis- sues 61 Soap for the removal of stains from calico; Scourirg fluids; Scouring fluid for all kinds of stains, the derivation of which cannot be ascertained; English scouring fluid; Scouring pen- cils 62 Schwemmer's scouring fluid; Removal of dust stains, and of stains of unknown derivation 63 Preparation for cleaning woolen goods; Treatment of silk, satin, etc. : Removal of grease stains 64 P.enzinized magnesia; Gelatinized benzine 65 Etherized magnesia 66 "Water stains" due to milk, soup, beer, etc.; Mode of cleaning a coat; Treatment of very old grease stains 67 Removal of paint and varnish stains, stains of resin, tar, or wagon grease 68 Removal of stearin and wax stairs, and of fruit stains 69 Remnval of stains of red wine, cheriies, whortleberries, etc., and of milk and coffee stains 70 Removal of soup stains, as well as smaller grease stains in general; Removal of stains of beer, wine, punch, sugar, gelatine, glue, etc.; Removal of grass stains, and stains from green nuts, as well as so-called tannin stains 72 Removal of acid stains, nitric acid stains, stains of wine-vinegar, sour wine, etc., and of lye and lime stains, urine stains, and perspiration stains 73 Removal of greasy shine of men's worn worsted or cheviot gar- ments; Removal of nitrate of silver stains, aniline color stains, ink stains 75 Removal of iron and rust stains 78 Table showing the best means of cleaning all kinds of fabrics from any stain 79 Directions for removing stains which apply especially to the gar- ment d) er 80 CONTENTS. XI PAGE III. WET CLEANING. Water; Importance of pure and soft water in wet cleaning; Clarifying turbid water; Dangers in using hard water and water containing iron 83 Purification and testing of water; Sirrple method of testing water as to its softness; Determination of the presence of gypsum, chlorine combinations, ammonia, and nitric acid 84 Testing water for lime; Transient and permanent hardness of water; Detection of iron in water 85 Softening of hard water; Purification of water in which gypsum predominates; Testing the purified water; Purification of water containing iron 86 Wet washing of men's garments; Sorting the garments and pre- paring them for washing 87 Washing dark garments; Souring 88 Washing cloaks, ht avy overcoats, and gray uniform cloaks 89 Washing men's dark clothes with quillaia bark 90 Mode of extracting quillaia bark 91 Removal of stains before washing, and a mixture for this purpose; Washing ladies' garments 92 Testing light-colored cotton garments as to whether they will stand wet washing: Treatment of cotton garments which will not stand washir g with soap 93 Mode of preventing colois from running: Washing corsets 94 Washing ladies' half-wool and wool garments 95 Washing raw silk garments, and lustre and barege garments 96 Washing garments trimmed with black velvet; Wet washing white wool and white silk fabrics 97 Construction of a bleaching chamber 98 Removal of sulphur stains; Bleaching with potassium permanga- nate and sulphurous acid 99 Bleaching white wool or silk articles with peroxides; Bleaching wiih hydrogen peroxide; Bleaching white woolen blankets, garments, etc ico Preservatives for hydrogen peroxide; Bleaching with sodium per- oxide f IO2 Bleaching of jute 104 Washing light-colored wool and silk articles 105 Xll CONTENTS. PACK Washing white woolen undergarments; Cleaning white cloth caps and felt hats; Washing white woolen knit or woven articles. .. 106 Washing white silk handkerchiefs, white silk stockings, colored silk cloths; Washing silk gloves; Cleaning colored silk gloves; Cleaning 6ne colored embroideries 107 Preparation of eau de Javelle 108 Preventing colors from running; Washing of small table-covers with colored embroideiy 109 Washing ladies' scarf ^ with variegated colors, antimacassars, cush- ion covers, etc no Safeguards against bleeding of colors 112 Washing laces, blonde laces, embroideries on linen; Cleaning real laces 113 Appliance for washing laces, described and illustrated 114 \Yashingcurtains 115 Treatment of cream-colored curtains; Reviving the colors of cur- tains; Washing curtains in the machine 116 Washing colored curtains; Washing veils . 117 Washing silk and silver laces 1 1 8 Washing gold laces; Cleaning gold and silver galloons 119 Cleaning paras Is. 1 20 Washing carpets 122 IV. FINISHING CLEANED FABRICS. Importance of thorough finishing; Best means cf removing water from wet textile fabrics i 25 Hydro-extractors; Finishing white and colored woolen shawls, fichus, etc 126 Finishing white and colored silk shawls, etc.; Finishing laces, embroideries, etc 127 Imparting a soft, velvety feel to plush and similar articles; Giving black silk laces, etc., a good lustre; Dressing for white em- broideries; Finishing curtains 128 Finishing plush draperies; Finishing men's garments; Steam- boards and their construction, described and illustrated 129 Steam-table, described and illustrated 131 Directions for pressing men's garments; Pressing a man's coat. 132 CONTENTS. xiii PAGE Pressing pantaloons and waistcoat*; Finishing ladies' garments.. 133 Dressing for men's and ladies' summer garments 134 Dn, ing cylinder and drying table, illustrated; Steam heated puff irons, described and illustrated 135 Dressings for garment dyers and laundrymen; Dressing for light woolens 1 36 Dressing for silk; Dressings for cotton and linen; Formulas for the preparation of gloss starch 137 Elastic gloss starch; Cream gloss; Water-proofing fabrics, and formulas for this purpose 138 Waterproof finish 139 Fire-proofing fabrics; Nicoll's fire-proof dressing; Martin's fire- proof dressing 140 V. CLEANING AND DYEING FURS, SKIN RUGS AND MATS. Cleaning; Examination of the articles and removing dust from them; Furs to be washed in benzine 141 Wet-cleaning of very dirtv furs and skins 142 Restoring the skins after washing 143 Furs which cannot stand wet-cleaning; Trealment of skins cleaned with benzine 144 Process of softening hard and verv dirty skins; Washing ladies' and gentlemen's fur collars; Washing sheep-skins 145 Bleaching white skins; Bleaching with potassium permanganate. 146 Bleaching with sodium peroxide; Removing water from the skin 147 Washing very much tendered skins; Dyeing; Precaution to be taken in order to get ths original color 148 Modes of dyeing gray, browns, and blacks; UseofUrsols 149 Drawbacks of the Ursols 150 Black on skins 151 Tipping furs with black; Brown on skins; Very dark-brown. ... 152 Medium to dark-brown; Red-brown; Chestnut on skins; Russet on skins 153 Golden on skins; Silver-gray on skins: Scarlet on skins; Orange on skins: Bright green on skins; Maroon on skins; Drying cleaned and dyed skins 154 XIV CONTENTS. VI. CLEANING AND DYEING FEATHERS. Cleaning; Brightening blacks, browns and ordinary dark colors; Purifying feathers chemically 155 Dressing of feathers; Re-whitening natural white feathers 156 Bleaching feathers; Dyeing 157 Utensils used in dyeing; Use of mordants 158 Modes of adding coloring matter to the dye bath 160 Treatment of portions of birds; Dyeing ostrich feathers; Clean- ing large feathers 161 Feathers in bulk ; Decolorizing 162 Freeing from grease 1 63 Removing natural brown spots and points from white feathers. .. 164 Dyeing ostrich feathers black 165 Dyeing ostrich feathers bronze; Green 167 Olive; Gold; Other colors including fashionable colors; Cream, ivory; Rose; Salmon; Maize, bamboo iC8 Pale blue; Butter, bouton d'or, mandarin, coq roche; Parme, heliotrope, prune; Geld, old gold 169 Gray; Coquilicot, cardinal; Garnet; Beige, tobacco, Siam, and intervening shades; Chartreuse pale yellow; Cresson dull yellow green 1 70 Olive; Vesuve, Etna dull, fiery tones; Vieux-rose; Navy, ad- miral; Russe 171 Gray-blua colors; Green-blue colors; Maroon, loutre; Om^re (shaded) tricolored 171 The shading box and its construction 173 Borde (bordered feathers) ; Light mirror, dark border 174 Dark mirror, light border 1 75 Dyeing fancy feathers; Cleaning; Definition of fancy feathers; Washing fancy feathers 177 Decolorizing 178 Freeing from fat; Treatment of white feathers 1 79 Dyeing black ; Chicken feathers; Mordanting 180 Dyeing 181 Treatment with chlorine; Turkey feathers 182 Pigeon feathers; Goose and duck feathers; Peacock feathers ... 183 Parrot feathers; Skins of kingfishers and magpies; All other CONTENTS. XV PACK kinds of birds' wings, skins, heads and tails; Bronze-green, olive, gold; Other colors including mode colors; Ombr6 184 Changeant; Drying of feathers 185 Drying frame; Drying drum 186 VII. BLEACHING AND DYEING STRAW HATS. First step in bleaching straw; Cleaning straw hats, and soap for that purpose 1 88 Actual decoloration (bleaching) of straw; Various methods of bleaching; Freeing the articles from coloring matters, resins, wax, etc 189 Bleaching with chlorine; Apparatus for preparing bleaching liquor, described and illustrated 191 Vessels for bleaching straw articles; Bleaching with hypochlorites (bleaching fluids) 194 Bleaching with sulphurous anhydride (sulphurous acid in a gas- eous state) ; Oven for burning sulphur, described and illustrated; Bleaching with liquid sulphurous anhydride 195 Means of simplifying the process of bleaching 196 Bleaching with hydrogen peroxide, and with sodium peroxide 197 Dyeing of straw; Black on straw 198 Silver-gray on straw; Chestnut- brown 199 Medium brown on straw; Cheapest brown on straw hats; Havana- brown, Catechu-brown 200 Maroon; Violet; Yellow; Use of aniline colors for dyeing straw; Mode of dissolving aniline colors 201 Beige on straw; Tobacco-brown; Gendarme-blue 202 Cardinal; Dark green; Myrtle green; Dark maiine blue; Silver- gray 203 VIII. CLEANING AND DYEING GLOVES. Cleaning kid gloves; Restoration of lusire to gloves 204 Method of cleaning white gloves; Removal ol rust and ink stains 205 The fat bath, and its preparation 206 Washing chamois gloves; V\ ashing buckskin gloves 207 Washing gauntlets; Cleaning Suede gloves; Dyeing kid gloves. . 208 XVI CONTENTS. PAGE Black on gloves; Brown on gloves 209 Morocco-red on gloves; Gray on gloves; Use of aniline colors for dyeing gloves 210 Red on gloves; Violet; Blue 211 Green on gloves; Yellow, and brown on gloves; Aniline colors suitable and unsuitable for dyeing gloves 212 IX. GARMENT DYEING. Difficulties of this branch of the dyeing trade; Advisability of testing goods previous to accepting them for re-dyeing 214 Points which have to be considered by the garment dyer; Colors which may be dyed on the original color 215 Dyeing silks 216 Precautions to be observed in washing and dyeing silks; Cleaning and stripping the goods; Testing goods for strength 217 Black on silk 218 Dark-brown on silk ; Coffee-brown on silk 220 Tobacco- brown on silk; Gold; Bordeaux red 221 Scarlet on silk ; Crimson ; Cherry-red 222 Cream on silk; Rose color; Salmon rose; Carail; Pale blue, ciel. 223 Alkaline blue; Navy blue; Helictrope 224 Prune on silk; Silver-gray; Gray; Wood-gray 225 Vesuve, dull fiery tones on silk; Bright green; Pea green; Green. 226 Dull yellow-green on silk; Mess green; Olive; Very bright green ; Cinnamon-brown ; Yellow 227 Greenish-yellow on silk; Orange; Mauve; Fancy colors, and all intervening tones on silk 228 Dyeing genuine velvet; Dyeing wool and silk (gloria) fabrics; Definition of gloria; Dyes which act equally on wool and silk at boiling heat 229 Dyes which have a stronger affinity for wool; Division of the acid dyes according to their affinity for silk and wool; Best means of dyeing wool and silk to shade 230 Production of " shot " effects 231 Dyeing woolen garments and fabrics; Application of the acid dyestuffs 232 Usual method of dyeing wool with acid dyes; Use of dyestuffs. . . 233 CONTENTS. Xvii PAGE Dyeing with mordant dyes 234 Preparing woolen garments for dyeing; Sorting and cleaning the the garments 235 Black on wool; Jet black; Blue black 236 Violet black; Dead black; Diamond black; Brown black 237 Chromotrop black; Logwood black; Gray on wool; Pearl gray; Dark gray 238 Scarlet; Crimson; Deep Red; Ponceau; Maroon; Terracotta red ; Cherry red ; Bordeaux red 239 Claret red; Bright red; Orange; Yellow; Bright yellow; Deep yellow ; Golden yellow 240 Green; Dark green; Bright green; Sage green; Medium green; Olive green; Emerald green; Blue; Bright blue; Dark blue.. 24.1 Navy-blue; Blue-black; Deep navy-blue; Peacock blue; Dark peacock blue; Violet blue; Deep sky-blue; Violet 242 Mauve; Brown; Yellow brown; Olive brown; Deep seal; Deep brown ; Walnut - 243 Olive brown; Dyeing mixed cotton and wool goods; Black 244 Blue-black; Lark blue; Dark brown 245 Scarlet; Crimson; Orange; Dark green; Slate; Dark gray; Drab; Cornflower-blue; Sage brown 246 Dark sage; Peacock green; Dyeing of cotton goods; Removal of size; Method of working with direct dyes 247 Scarlet on cotton; Crimson red; Pink; Claret; Maroon 248 Salmon; Yellow; Old gold; Dark yellow; Cream; Orange; Green ; Sage green 249 Bright grass green; Dark green; Blue; Sky blue; Navy blue; Dark navy; Violet blue; Plum; Violet; Brown 250 Light brown; Dark brown: Gold brown; Chestnut brown; Black ; Gray 25 1 Dyeing cotton and linen garments containing jute; Most common colors for these mixed goods; Dyes most in use for pure jute; Dyes for mixtures of jute with cotton and linen; Mixing the dye with the dressing 252 Receipt for black 253 CONTEXTS. STRIPPING COLORS FROM GARMENTS AND FABRICS. Clothes with which the garment dyer has to deal; Stripping with hot soda and soap; Process for stripping some of the aniline colors 254 Bath for removing browns and blacks; Stripping silks dyed with aniline colors 255 Stripping woolens; Stripping mixtures of wool and silk, an^ mix- tures of wool and cotton ; Stripping with peroxide of hydrogen 256 An old method of stripping woolens ; Stripping with potassium permanganate; Various stripping agents 257 XI. ANALYSIS OF TEXTILE FIBERS. Characteristics of the principal fibers as shown under the micro- scope ; Cotton ; Flax . . 259 Hemp; Jute; Silk; Tussah silk; Wool 260 Chemical examination of fibers and fabrics; Basis of all vegetable fibers; Effect of various chemicals on vegetable fibers 261 Effect of chemicals on wool ; Determination of wool and of silk . 262 Determination of the presence of vegetable fibers in a tissue of wool and silk 263 Testing white, or not too dark -colored, mixed tissues 264 Detection of silk in wool, or wool in silk 265 Preparation of tissues for chemical testing 266 Summary for distinguishing the purity of a fabric by chemical agents; Cotton; Cotton in linen cloth; Cotton in woolen cloth ; Jute ; Linen; Silk ; Tussah silk 267 Recognition of cloth containing silk and wool; Mercerized cloth 268 Index 269 PRACTICAL DRY CLEANER, SCOURER AND GARMENT DYER. DRY OR CHEMICAL CLEANING. IN 1866, a Frenchman, M. Judlin, laid the founda- tion of an entirely new industry by discovering the detergent powers of benzine, and the art of dry cleaning has now spread over the entire civilized world. The success of the method was due to the fact that it altered neither the fit nor the fashion of the garments, while wet washing with soap not un- commonly affects one or both of them, so that other processes are often required after wet washing ; which are unnecessary with dry cleaning. The dry clean- ing of garments is thus simple and rapid, and what is more, most of the benzine used can be recovered for use again. Chemical cleaning does much towards the better- ing of social conditions, and to-day the celebrated remark of Liebig that the civilization of a nation could be measured by the amount of soap it con- sumes, might be supplemented by adding that those countries in which the chemical cleaning es- 2 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. tablishments are not well patronized, are by far less cultured than those which have recognized the worth and value of this industry. The full significance of chemical cleaning is steadily gaining ground, and it is becoming more and more a matter of necessity to have such garments as can- not well be laundried thoroughly dry-cleaned from time to time. Chemical cleaning is especially valuable to doctors and nurses, and all those coming in contact with in- fectious diseases, it having been proved that this pro- cess not only destroys germs in clothing, but also renders the garments treated practically immune. The phrase " dry cleaning," or as the French call it, nettoyage a sec, originated from the fact that no water is used in the process. However, in reality, the garments are immersed and washed in benzine, benzol, or some other solvent. Thus the term " dry cleaning " is a misnomer, and the real definition of dry or chemical cleaning is immersion in a liquid which dissolves fat. It may be objected that the soap and soda used in ordinary washing dissolve fats, but in this instance it is not a case of solution pure and simple. What is dissolved is soap formed by the chemical action of alkali upon the fat, and not the fat as such. Any fat that is not converted into soap is emulsified, and passes away undissolved into the rinsing water. The definition of dry or chemical cleaning thus includes two points : Firstly, total im- mersion in a liquid, and not local applications of liquid with a sponge, etc., the latter being merely a DRY OR CHEMICAL CLEANING. 3 stain-removing process, and secondly, that the action of the liquid must be purely solvent, and must neither emulsify the fat nor alter it chemically. The fat must be recoverable from the solvent by simple dis- tillation. Although benzine and benzol are generally used as solvents, they are not the only liquids available. Ether, chloroform, acetic ether, carbon tetrachloride, alcohol, could all be used for chemical cleaning, although price and other considerations forbid their employment, or restrict it within narrow limits. Some of them, especially carbon tetrachloride, will no doubt be much more largely used in the future than they are now. Briefly stated, dry cleaning is based upon the solvent power for grease of benzine, benzol and other solvents. Most stains in garments consist of dirt held by- grease of various kinds collected during the wearing of the clothes. By removing the grease the dirt- carrying vehicle the dirt is released and the stain disappears. As compared with the older method of cleaning, this process possesses great advantages, the possibility of shrinking and felting of woolen stuffs, almost unavoidable in the treatment with water, being entirely excluded. Furthermore, the most delicate colors are not affected or in the least injured, and richly-trimmed ladies' gowns can be cleansed without the necessity of ripping off any portion or removing the trimmings. The padding of mens' coats is not shifted, and many household articles which would be rendered useless by the 4 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. ordinary method of cleaning may by this process be restored to their original cleanness, and besides the expense of ripping apart and re-sewing is avoided. As previously mentioned the fluids chiefly used for this cleaning process are as follows : Benzine, benzol, turpentine, and, in most modern times, carbon tetrachloride or tctrachloro-methane. i . Benzine, also known as petroleum spirit, is a water-white, limpid liquid, with the peculiar and characteristic odor of petroleum. It is highly in- flammable and requires handling with great care. It begins to evolve gas at 86 F., and boils between 122 and 140 F. It is the second lightest product obtained during the refining of petroleum. It has a specific gravity of 0.730 to 0.760. A product hav- ing almost identical properties with benzine is shale naphtha, obtained by distilling Scotch shale. It has generally a slightly higher specific gravity, higher boiling-point, and is not so volatile as the petroleum product. As a solvent for oils and greases, benzine is not excelled, but no matter whence it may be derived, for the purpose of the garment cleaner, a product haying a specific gravity of between 0.728 to 0.735 is the best, so that it can be readily expelled from the garments at the normal heat of a stove. A pro- duct of less specific gravity is not required, and makes the process more expensive by reason of the greater loss due to evaporation during washing. A sufficiently accurate method for testing benzine as to its availability for dry cleaning is as follows : Pour DRY OR CHEMICAL CLEANING. 5 the benzine in a clean, white porcelain dish, and allow it to spontaneously evaporate. No residue should remain in the dish, and no perceptible odor should adhere to the dish. It is a principal requisite that the benzine should be free from odoriferous substances as otherwise the garments might retain a disagreeable smell. To be sure, benzine itself cannot be freed from its charac- teristic odor, but the latter can be completely ex- pelled by a suitable oven-heat. Benzine as found in commerce is not a definite chemical combination but a mixture of hydrocar- bons of the paraffine series and must not be con- founded with the definite chemical compound benzol (C 6 H 6 ) of the aromatic series. While, as previously mentioned, benzine is not excelled as a solvent for oils and greases, its use is of no value for the removal of ordinary dust or dirt such as frequently collects on the bottoms of dresses and pantaloons. When rubbed between the hands benzine causes a sensation of hardness which is due to the withdrawal of fatty substances from the skin. It has long been recognized that if an alkali, chiefly in the form of soap, or another chemical compound in a dissolved state could be added to benzine, the cleaning power of the latter would be considerably increased, and its use could be extended to very dirty articles upon which, by itself, it exerts but little influence. For about twenty-five years endeavors have been made to add soaps to benzine by attempting to dissolve 6 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. thoroughly dried soaps in benzol, alcohol, turpentine, etc., and adding the resulting product to benzine. Under the name of benzine soaps various products are now found in the market, and are much used, forming in fact an important item of the dry-clean- er's outfit. In 1893, Dr. M. Richter discovered that sharply-dried soaps of the alkaline earths, for in- stance, neutral magnesia soap, dissolve in benzine and possess the power of preventing electric excita- tion of the benzine and the consequent spontaneous firing caused thereby. The term antibenzinpyrin has been applied by the inventor to such soaps. According to Dr. Richter, the oleates soluble in benzine may be classified as follows : 1. Hydrated acid oleate of the alkaline salts, called benzine soaps. 2. Anhydrous normal oleates of the salts of the alkaline earths, called antibenzinpyrin. A very interesting fact is the power of the acid oleates to absorb water. This may be readily ob- served by adding, drop by drop, water to a ten per cent, solution of benzine soap. On shaking, the water yields a clear solution with the benzine soap. Attention may here be drawn to the fact that the goods to be cleaned always contain moisture, and as benzine does not mix with water, satisfactory results, without the use of benzine soap, can only be ob- tained by previously drying the goods as much as possible. With the use of benzine soap such drying is, however, superfluous. On coming in contact with the goods, the benzine soap absorbs the par- DRY OR CHEMICAL CLEANING. 7 tides of water contained in a finely-divided state in the goods, lays bare the fibre, and thus allows the benzine to exert its grease-dissolving power. Of course there is a limit to the water-absorbing power of benzine soap. The solubility of benzine soaps is, however, only conditional. From solutions of less than 0.2 per cent., the soap is in a short time precipitated in the form of slime. Generally speaking it may be laid down as a rule that the lower the temperature and the more water the benzine soap has absorbed, the more readily precipitation will take place. In addition it maybe mentioned that the extremely disagreeable property of benzine soaps of being readily decomposed by weak acids is solely due to the content of water. The well-known fact that in wet washing of, for instance, carpets and curtains from smoking rooms, the soap frequently is suddenly broken, applies also to chemical washing, there being no doubt of its being caused by substances of an acid character. This difficulty which cannot be foreseen, is extremely annoying and, as it frequently occurs, may even be called a calamity, because by reason of the decom- position of the benzine soap, protection from electric ignition becomes, illusive. The fact is that hydrated benzine soaps are only anti-electric so long as they remain in solution and contain no more free oleic acid than the acid salt requires. Preparation of antibenzinpyrin, Dissolve 22 Ibs. best quality white grain-soap (75 per cent, fat) in 8 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. water, and, at about 203 F., add magnesium chlor- ide or magnesium sulphate (Epsom salts) so long as separation takes place. The semi -liquid magne- sium oleate floating on the surface is then removed and remelted with fresh boiling water. The product thus purified is wrapped in a linen cloth and freed from adhering water in a centrifugal. The product, which still contains water, is then slowly heated in a copper boiler to 266 F. by means of indirect steam. When the mass flows quietly, the steam is shut off, and 15 Ibs. of odorless petroleum are stirred in. This anhydrous magnesium oleate is, while still in a liquid state, dissolved in 20 gallons of benzine. With the exception of a very slight sediment, the product should dissolve clear, and remain so ; a slimy, white precipitate indicates that the magnesium oleate used still contained water, and consequently had not been long enough heated. Of this benzine solution one quart is to be used as an addition to every 25 gallons of benzine. Dilution may also be reduced to one- half, hence to about 10 to n gallons. In this case one pint suffices for 25 gallons of benzine. 2. Benzol or benzene. This liquid is obtained from the portion of coal tar boiling at 212 F. It is a water-white, limpid liquid, is strongly refractive, and has a peculiar aromatic odor and taste. It boils at from 176 to 212 F. Its specific gravity is 0.85 to O.88. It is easily inflammable, burning with a lum- inous, smoky flame. It is very volatile and when exposed to the atmosphere vaporizes without leaving behind any residue. It is a powerful solvent for all DRY OR CHEMICAL CLEANING. 9 oils and fats, and yields excellent results in dry cleaning, but though somewhat cheaper now is still too expensive for the purpose. Benzine can be distinguished from benzol in the following manner : Benzine is colored violet by a crystal of potassium iodide, while benzol i$ colored carmine. If to two cubic centimeters of benzine, three or four drops of a clear ether solution of sand- arac (i to 10) are added a persistent cloudiness is produced in the benzine, while with benzol heated in the same manner the cloudiness will soon pass away. Finally, if the benzol is shaken with a drop of alco- hol, it will become clouded, while the benzine will remain clear. Benzol has not the slightest action on the most delicate tints and colors, and new stuffs frequently acquire a much finer appearance when washed with it previously to being sold. 3. Turpentine. This product was formerly known as oil or spirit of turpentine, but these terms have in the course of time fallen into disuse, and the name of turpentine, originally applied to the resinous mater- ial itself, is now generally given to the volatile liquid used by painters for cleaning purposes, etc. Turpentine is obtained by distilling the oleo- resinous exudations of various species of Finns. The crude turpentine is put into a large still, heat is applied, and a little water from time to time added to the contents of the still. Distillation is continued as long as turpentine passes over, when the resinous residue is run off through a stop-cock at the bottom IO DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. of the still, is passed through several strainers, and then constitutes rosin. On condensing the distillate, the turpentine separates from the water and is dipped into barrels, in which it enters commerce. Turpentine is a water-white, clear liquid of a peculiar and very characteristic odor. It is lighter than water, its specific gravity varying between 0.85 and 0.87. It is insoluble in water, although it im- parts its odor to it. It boils at about 302 F., and is completely distilled at a temperature of 338 F. ; old samples may, however, leave a very small residue behind them. Turpentine is readily combustible ; it flashes at 97 to 1 00 F., and at a slightly higher temperature burns with a luminous flame accompanied with the emission of much smoke. Of the different varieties of turpentine the French product is the best. It is, however, almost ex- clusively consumed in France itself, very little, if any, being exported. American and Russian tur- pentines are the best varieties for the purpose of dry-cleaning. They have very similar properties, Russian turpentine having rather more odor than the American product. Austrian turpentine cannot be recommended, it always showing a slightly yel- lowish color even when thoroughly rectified. German turpentine obtained by destructive dis- tillation of various species of Pinus should not be used, as it possesses a peculiar odor which cannot be removed from garments treated with it. Besides it rapidly turns yellow on exposure to air, and resinifies. DRY OR CHEMICAL CLEANING. II Although turpentine is an excellent solvent for grease, oils, etc., it is not a good material to use with the dry process, it being apt to leave behind a somewhat unpleasant odor. This is more likely to be the case with Russian than with American tur- pentine, and when the garments are dried slowly. For this reason it is but seldom used, although fre- quently recommended for removing oil and paint stains from garments. There is no good reason for the generally prevail- ing idea that turpentine when used for cleaning silk stuffs, imparts to them a soft feel and greater luster and softness. Carbon tetrachloride or tetrachloromethane, CC1 4 , is a colorless, mobile, volatile fluid, of a peculiar chloroform-like odor. It is heavier than water, hav- ing a specific gravity of [.629; boiling-point 170.6 7r . It is now prepared on a large scale by the reaction of carbon bisulphite with chloride of sulphur, which are, both bodies, readily and cheaply prepared by the direct union of their elements. Besides, the by-product of the reaction is free sul- phur, which can be reconverted into carbide and chloride, for use again as the whole of the sulphur is recovered. Carbon tetrachloride is coming more and more into use for dry cleaning, and in other ways as a solvent for fats and greases on account of its non- inflammability, which gives it an enormous advantage over benzine. Although still more expensive than benzine, it is cheaper than it used to be, and thanks to 12 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. improved methods of manufacture, there seems to be a good chance that in the near future it will not greatly differ in price from benzine, which in time will prob- ably become more expensive. There is no limit to the artificial production of tetrachloride, but benzine cannot as yet be obtained except from petroleum, and it is impossible that this natural product will be obtained on the present enormous scale for a much longer time. It must not be forgotten, moreover, that the user of carbon tetrachloride has a great advantage over the user of benzine in respect to fire insurance. Carbon tetrachloride is neither com- bustible nor explosive, and poured upon a fire puts it out exactly as so much water would do. It is slightly poisonous, but its fumes are not so deleter- ious as those of benzine. Even the best samples of benzine are apt to leave some smell behind them in goods which have left the cleaner. Whatever may be thought of the smell of carbon tetrachloride during use it is only in the rarest cases, when it has been used on heavy woolens for the most . part, that it leaves any trace of odor perceptible to the dry-cleaner's customers. More- over, the effect upon dyes has to be considered. Dry cleaning with benzine is less likely to affect sen- sitive dyes, especially in light shades than wet wash- ing. It is, however, true that carbon tetrachloride affects such dyes as a class less than any kind of benzine, and is therefore especially adapted for cleaning garments dyed in delicate tints, and par- ticularly when the fabric is an expensive one, such DRY OR CHEMICAL CLEANING. 13 as silk. These are evidently cases when the excess of cost to the cleaner involved in the use of carbon tetrachloride is of comparatively small importance. Another advantage of carbon tetrachloride is that it can be used in combination with the cheaper ben- zine. The cleansing power of the mixture is at least equal to that of pure benzine, and the addition of the carbon tetrachloride checks to some extent any tendency to firing of the benzine by electricity or otherwise. In stain-removing, carbon tetrachloride is quite as effectual as benzine, and has much less tendency to spread out and make perceptible outlines at the place where it is applied. For this purpose it can also be mixed with benzine. In glove-cleaning car- bon tetrachloride leaves the leather softer and less liable to crack on stretching than is the case when benzine is used. One other important point still remains to be men- tioned. There is much loss by evaporation when benzine is employed, both during the use and during the storage of the liquid. In use this loss is largely unavoidable, but is less in the case of carbon tetra- .chloride than with benzine, as the former has a higher boiling point than the latter. In storage the loss which is so difficult to prevent in the case of benzine, especially when the stock is frequently drawn upon, can be completely avoided in the case of the tetrachloride by covering it with a deep layer of water. Carbon tetrachloride is more than half as heavy again as water, and will not mix with it. 14 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. Hence the water swims on the top and effectually prevents all evaporation of the carbon compound, which can be drawn off at will from under the water. It is well known that benzine is to some extent mis- cible with water, and also that wet benzine is quite useless for dry cleaning purposes. The water over the carbon tetrachloride should be kept at a good depth, say three or four inches, so that there may be not only an effectual barrier to the escape of carbon tetrachloride vapor which has a very perceptible tension in hot weather, but a superincumbent weight will accelerate the flow of the carbon compound from the reservoir. THE DANGERS OF BENZINE AND OTHER SOLVENTS IN DRY CLEANING. It is scarcely necessary to say that in working with benzine or benzol, and even with oil of turpen- tine, the greatest care has to be observed. Naked lights or a stove should not be allowed in the work- ing room. Where incandescent electric light is available, the burner should be in a double air- tight glass cover. Failing electric light, the room should be lit from outside through an air-tight window. Benzine and benzol are not only highly inflam- mable in a liquid state, but have such low boiling points that they give off large volumes of vapor at ordinary temperatures. This vapor is of course combustible like the liquids, but unlike the latter, it can, by mixing with air, form a dangerous and DRY OR CHEMICAL CLEANING. 15 powerful explosive. Two conditions must exist be- fore combustion or explosion can take place. One is that the liquid or the vapor must be in contact with oxygen, i. e. in practice with the air, and the other is that there must be a sufficiently high tem- perature where the two meet to cause chemical action between them. If either of these conditions is absent there is no possibility of ignition or explos- ion. Now experience has shown that the tempera- ture which meets the second of the two essential conditions may be comparatively low and may be reached in various ways with the intervention of a flame or electric spark. In an ordinary dwelling house the use of benzine or gasoline is fraught with great danger. Both vaporize at ordinary temperatures, and the vapor is not absorbed in the atmosphere, but falls to the floor level, where it flows in a stream in the direction of any air current by which it may be affected. If this stream should happen to come in contact with a flame in another room, it would carry the fire back to the bulk of the gasoline, and cause an explosion. All vessels (hydro-extractors, washing and rinsing machines, etc.) containing inflammable liquids should have adequate covers, and should as far as practic- able be kept closed during use. The covers, more- over, should be balanced, so that if forced open by explosion they will fall back by their own weight and cut off the air supply from the burning liquid ; or in case of rinsing vessels which cannot be kept closed during use, an iron cover should be suspended from 1 6 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. above by a cord passing to a catch at some distance from the vessel, when in emergency it can be imme- diately set free, so that the cover will fall. In many large establishments the use of rinsing vessels has been entirely abandoned, and rinsing is effected in closed washing machines with clean benzine. A loud crackling noise heard while rinsing in benzine may be considered as a forerunner of spontaneous ignition. In this case allow the goods to rest quietly for some time in the vessel, and, if possible, introduce moist air into the room. Such spontaneous ignition occurs more frequently with white, than with dark-colored, goods. Attention is also directed to special safety appliances which are now available for the storage of inflammable liquids. By the means above described the risk of fire and explosion can be greatly lessened, but it is still neces- sary to make provision for minimizing these effects. There should be an ample water supply, with hy- drants and hose in order to prevent the extension of flames, but water should not be used in attempts to extinguish burning benzine. For the latter purpose blankets and a supply of sand should be kept in readiness. Steam jets will be useful in the event of fire, as well as for the preventative purpose of humidi- fication when the air is dry. Ammonia is also an excellent fire extinguishing agent. When thrown in a hearth it acts imme- diately ; instead of flames, volumes of black smoke rise up, and every trace of fire disappears. As a fire may cut the ordinary exit by the door, there should DRY OR CHEMICAL CLEANING. 1 7 be provided an outside fire escape if the room is not on the ground floor. All persons employed should have clear instructions what to do in case of fire, and wear woolen or other non-inflammable outer gar- ments. Ignition by electric sparks, which is now recog- nized as the cause of most instances of so-called spontaneous firing of benzine is due to the fact that textile fabrics especially undyed wool and silk and many other materials become electrified when rubbed or moved quickly in benzine, and sparks may result causing explosion. According to Dr. W. Richter, it is a singular fact that spontaneous firing has never been observed in the morning, but always in the afternoon hours, and further, always when work is slack, and never in the busy season. Richter attributes spontaneous firing to the formation of sparks by the alternation of the positive electricity of the wool with the negative electricity of the benzine. Whether the formation of sparks is promoted by metals has not yet been determined. Spontaneous firing may also depend on a mixture of benzine, steam and air in certain proportions. Experiments have shown that the risk of sparking is greatly increased in frosty weather and when the air is especially dry. In Paris no dry-cleaning establishments are al- lowed within the city limits. This, of course, is a protection from fire as far as houses in the city are concerned, but not the establishment itself. To de- crease danger from fire, F. Fischer has recommended 2 I 8 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. to artificially increase the content of moisture in the air by steaming or otherwise. This can be readily done if steam jets are available. While Dr. Richter considers this an excellent plan, it is unfortunately not very suitable for dry-cleaning establishments, as the moisture might impair the effect of chemical cleaning. It has also been recommended to increase the viscosity of benzine by the addition of fat, to diminish friction. But neither this nor the addition of alcohol, ether, chloroform and carbon tetra- chloride, has proved of any effectual use. As previously mentioned, benzine may be ren- dered less liable to ignition by electric sparks by the addition of soap. According to Dr. Gartenmeister, an addition of o.oi per cent, of magnesia soap pre- vents electric excitation in the goods so long as the magnesia soap is not separated by water or decom- posed by stronger acids. An addition of o.oi per cent, of benzine soap hydrated acid alkali oleate also prevents electric excitation so long as the soap is not precipitated by the withdrawal of water as anhydrous soap, or de- composed by a stronger acid. The employment of magnesia soap in addition to benzine soap is useless. For the prevention of electric excitation the re- quired small quantity o.oi per cent, of benzine soap or magnesia soap should be added to the pure benzine in which the washed goods are rinsed. However, in most cases the necessary quantity of benzine soap remains in the tissue from washing. DRY OR CHEMICAL CLEANING. 19 Apart from the risk of fire and explosion, injury to health may result from breathing the fumes of benzine, etc., and care should be taken to make the exposure to those fumes as brief as possible. Meals should not be taken in the room in which inflamma- ble fluids are used, and suitable accommodations should be provided elsewhere. THE CLEANING PROCESS. Dry cleaning is not adapted for every kind of tissue, and the first proceeding should be to sort the goods to be cleaned. Suitable for the dry process are : a. White silk fabrics and ribbons, and such as contain other colors, but in which white is neverthe- less the prevailing color. b. Woolen and half-woolen fabrics. c. Silk-velvet and all other colored silk stuffs. d. Light-colored woolen and half-woolen fabrics. e. Dark-colored articles. It is especially advisable to keep velvet, plush, and other goods with a pile surface separate from other kinds of material. Less suitable for dry cleaning are half-silk fabrics, as well as cotton and linen stuffs. Not suitable for dry cleaning are especially white linen and cotton pantaloons, vests, sun and rain um- brellas, satin shoes, etc. These articles, which, for reasons readily understood, cannot be brought into the wash machine, require cleaning by hand with the tampion and brush. 20 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. Colored articles which discolor when treated with the tampion must, of course, be separated to prevent other stuffs, especially white or those with a white ground, from becoming smeared. This generally happens with stuffs dyed with tar colors which have not been sufficiently steamed. There are a number of methods and several kinds of apparatus for carrying out the actual process of dry cleaning according to whether the work is to be done on a large or small scale; the principle of cleaning being, however, the same in every case. It is a great advantage and saving of time and benzine to get as much dust as possible beaten or shaken out of the garments. This is best done with whips on a mattress. If sticks are used buttons get broken and other damage ensues. A slowly revolv- ing star wheel similar to, but smaller than, the type used for carpet beating, is a very good machine for the purpose. Hooks should also be closed with pliers to prevent them catching and tearing any thing. After beating the garments should be thor- oughly brushed, especially the pockets, with a medium stiff brush. Too hard a brush is apt to tear the wool from men's garments which may cause shiny spots. For garments of soft or fine texture a soft woolen rag made into a ball may be used in place of a brush. This woolen rag should be as near as possible of the same color as the article to be cleaned, i. e. a light-colored rag should be used for light stuffs and one of a dark or black color for dark stuffs. A chief requirement is that the brushes, DRY OR CHEMICAL CLEANING. 21 rags, etc., used are themselves clean ; further that they are perfectly dry, i. e. free from water. Finally, the garments should be dried to remove any moisture they contain, as the presence of water prevents the benzine from acting. If there is water in the benzine or in the goods, damp places will be formed in the latter. These places retain their own dirt and absorb dirt from their immediate neighbor- hood, and the dirt in them is effectually protected from the detergent action of the benzine. The result is that the goods leave the washing machine covered irregularly with dark stains. If treated at once these stains can generally be removed quite readily by means of a good rubbing and brushing with benzine soap. If, however, the goods have been dried they often resist this treatment successfully, and nothing remains to be done but to wash them all over again, taking care of course to use perfectly dry benzine. It is obvious, however, that, on the ground of economy, both of benzine and of time and labor, prevention is better than cure, and the following simple method is invariably successful. Should the benzine be wet, a few yards of white and perfectly dry cotton cloth should be run in the machine with the benzine for a few minutes. The cotton will ab- sorb the whole of the moisture, and after its removal the ordinary washing can be safely placed in the machine. After the cotton has been used a few times for drying the benzine, it cannot be trusted to take up the water efficiently. It is, therefore, cen- trifuged, dried, wet-washed, and again made abso- 22 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. lutely dry. It can then be used again for the same purpose. If this procedure is followed, the same piece of cotton can be almost indefinitely used. In smaller establishments the actual process of dry cleaning may be carried on as follows : Five vessels sufficiently large to allow of the con- venient handling of the stuffs to be treated in them are used. The vessels may be of zinc-sheet, though it is better to have them made of copper-sheet, or to employ large stone-ware pots such as are much used in the chemical industry. Each vessel should be provided with a well-fitting lid. The vessels should be cylindrical in form and greater in depth than diameter. Fill the vessels three-quarters full with benzine, and then sort the articles which are to be cleaned. Separate the lighter from the darker, and in this manner arrange several piles of articles. Spread out each article, first the lighter and last the darker, upon a table covered with zinc-sheet, see Fig. 5, and remove the worst stains. For this purpose tie a piece of wadding, the size of a fist and made into a ball, into a piece of white linen so that the corners of the latter can be used as a handle, fhis con- trivance is called a " tampion." Now dip the tam- pion into benzine in a dish until it is thoroughly saturated, and vigorously rub the dirtiest places until the greater portion of the dirt is removed. Proceed in the same manner with all the articles, the" darker being taken last, because by repeatedly dipping the tampion into the benzine, the latter acquires a darker color. DRY OR CHEMICAL CLEANING. 23 The benzine remaining after the operation is fin- ished is poured into a large vessel, which is provided with a well- fitting lid. Now wash the articles treated with the tampion, one after the other, in vessel No. i, throw them into vessel No. 2, and cover the latter. Then thoroughly wash lot No. I with the hands, and in the meanwhile bring the articles in vessel No. 2 into No. 3. Now throw the washed lot No. I into vessel No. 2, and then commence washing the next lot, bringing in the meanwhile the articles in vessel No. 3 into No. 4 and those in No. 2 into No. 3. The lot washed next is then thrown into vessel No. 2. This changing of the articles from one vessel to the other is done for the purpose of always bringing the first lot, that is, the white pieces, in contact with pure benzine, the latter becoming constantly darker by washing the articles. The articles first treated are finally again washed in vessel No. 5, then spread out upon the table and examined. If dirty places are still found, the articles are rubbed with a clean tampion dipped into the benzine in vessel No. 5, and then for some time placed in vessel No. 5. From the latter they are thrown into a vessel provided with a lid; in which the adhering benzine drains off and is from time to time removed by tilting the vessel. The articles are finally wrung by passing them between the rolls of a wringer, or, still better, the adhering benzine is removed by means of a centri- fugal worked by hand. The articles are then dried in quite hot, closed, drying-chambers, provided with contrivances for the escape and condensation of the. benzine vapors. 24 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. By this treatment the articles are thoroughly cleaned as far as can be done with benzine. It must, however, be mentioned that all stains produced by alkalies, acids, sugar, milk, etc., resist the action of benzine. The same is also the case with the so-called sweat-stains, which are caused by a change in the color. To remove such stains, the separate .places must be subjected to a special treatment, as will be explained later on. The method above described is very practical, but possesses the inconvenience of the operator being much exposed to the vapors of the benzine. This may, however, be avoided by carrying on the work under a well-drawing chimney. For draining the articles, a tall cylindrical vessel of zinc or copper, provided with a perforated false bottom, is generally used. The adhering benzine drains off through the perforated bottom, and is from time to time drawn off through a cock near the true bottom of the vessel. The vessel may also be pro- vided with a movable lid and screw, so that by ap- plying pressure this portion of the operation is ac- celerated. Silk articles are simply washed by hand in the above- described manner, as otherwise they would suffer too much. Besides, if only individual stains have to be removed, the articles, with the exception of the stained portion, remain intact, and the latter itself is only treated with the greatest care. For working on a larger scale, the arrangement above described is, however, unsuitable, and a num- DRY OR CHEMICAL CLEANING. 25 ber of good machines will be required, namely, a benzine washing machine, an extractor, a cleaning table, a tank or tub for rinsing, and a couple of cylindrical tanks of zinc. All machines and vessels used in a dry-cleaning establishment should be hermetically closed in order to prevent evaporation of the solvent employed. All kinds of benzine washing machines, both for hand and power, are on the market, and there should be no difficulty in finding a suitable one. It should close hermetically, be easy to get at in all its parts, work evenly, and be kept scrupulously clean. The simplest form of machine is merely a closed cylinder divided into two parts lengthwise by a set of parallel pipes, and capable of rotation on its axis, which is kept horizontal. The best material is iron, all inner parts being galvanized or tinned. The speed of rotation is from twenty to twenty-five turns per minute. The stuff is on one side of the pip^s. only, so that it is dipped into the benzine at every revolution, and can be taken out after it has been left to drain in the cylinder. A better form of machine, however, is a rotating cage, into which the goods are put. It turns inside a fixed cylinder containing the benzine, into which the lower half of the cage dips. The cage is divided lengthwise in the same manner as the rotating cylinder in the first machine. Fig. i shows a power-driven washing machine, manufactured by Edw. C. Grever & Co., Cincinnati, O. The outside shell or tub is made of hard brass 26 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. or galvajiized iron of ample strength, riveted on cast- iron heads, the joints of which are planed and fast- FIG. i. ened together with bolts. These are made perfectly oil-tight. The tub is fitted with a sliding door and patent reverse movement. Only cut gears are used, all of which are protected by guards. FIG. 2. The cylinder or cage of the machine shown in Fig. 2, is made of No. 13 half-hard brass, riveted on DRY OR CHEMICAL CLEANING. 2; to the flange of the cast-iron spiders, which form the heads. The flange extends over the sheet brass thereby relieving the rivets of the strain caused by the falling of the goods. The inside surface of the cast-iron spiders is covered with brass or copper. The special process of embossing the brass cylinder leaves no sharp edges to tear or damage the goods, as the ridge of the perforation is rolled over and forms a solid and smooth bead which adds strength to the plates. The hinges extend across the length of the door and serve to prevent the springing of the latter. FIG. 3. Fig. 3 shows a washing machine of similar con struction for hand- power. Washing. In many establishments, the garments, after having been freed from dust, as previously de- scribed, are first brushed over with solution of ben- zine soap in benzine. The lightest-colored goods are taken first and run from 10 to 15 minutes in the 28 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. washer filled with fresh benzine. They are then transferred to fresh benzine in a second washer, and run there for 15 minutes, while the darker goods go into the first machine without the benzine in it being changed. After the second benzine bath, the gar- ments are lifted from the machine and more goods put into the latter until the benzine is too dirty, when FIG. 4. it is distilled. The garments lifted from the machine are centrifuged in a hydro-extractor or centrifugal machine. Fig. 4 shows the Cincinnati hand ex- tractor, which can be easily converted into a power machine by slipping onto the crank shaft a pair of tight and loose pulleys. The gears are accurate and practically noiseless in operation. The basket is DRY OR CHEMICAL CLEANING. 2 9 suspended on steel ball bearings, and is 24 inches in diameter and 14 inches high. The centrifuged goods are examined, and well brushed over with a solution of benzine soap in ben- zine. The garment is spread out on the top of a table covered with zinc, and furnished with a rim, an outlet pipe, and box for soap and brush, Fig. 5. The top of the table thus constitutes a shallow tank, and all unnecessary loss of benzine is avoided. After the brushing the goods may either be again run in FIG. 5. the machine with fresh benzine containing benzine soap, or worked in the solution in a vat. Finally the goods are centrifuged and hung up for the rest of the benzine to evaporate. When the pieces leave the hydro-extractor they are almost dry, but in order to thoroughly free them from fumes they must air several hours in a warm room. This evaporating room must be warmed by means of hot air or steam heat, direct fire being of course out of the question. 30 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYE^R. In the above-described manner even rather dirty goods will be turned out in a faultless condition, and only in rare cases subsequent washing with soap will be required. Even very dirty goods will often require only a final brushing with cold water after the evaporation of the benzine. It is, however, very important to remember that, if soap must be used, the temperature of the soap bath must in no case exceed 80 F. White woolen and silk goods are brushed over with a somewhat weaker solution of benzine soap in benzine, and run for from 10 to 15 minutes in the washer. As regards silk this is done on account of the greater danger of explosion, and wool readily turns gray, especially in damp weather and with fresh benzine. Benzine several times distilled is, on the whole, better for white goods than fresh benzine, the former being specifically lighter than the latter, and the goods turn out more beautiful, the spe- cifically lighter the benzine is. White goods after being well dried and brushed, and hooks and eyes, buckles and other sharp objects attached to them removed, are thoroughly washed with a strong solution of benzine soap. They are then immediately rinsed in a bath mixed with weak benzine soap solution and next hydro-extracted. The goods are then brought into a washing machine containing benzine and well dissolved benzine soap and run in the machine for 15 to 20 minutes, when they are rinsed twice in clean benzine. When thus cleaned remaining stains are easy to remove and the DRY OR CHEMICAL CLEANING. 31 goods turn out better than by dry washing after re- moving the stains. White uniforms and fancy cos tumes, if the lining and make-up permit, are best brushed off with water feebly acidulated with hydro- chloric acid, and hard material is steamed moist. Colored silks, when very dirty and stained, cannot be properly cleaned by the dry process, but the then necessary wet cleaning should be preceded by a washing with benzine. When the silk is thus par- tially cleaned, the wet washing can be of a gentler character, and will be more rapidly effected, and the colors will much less suffer from it. One point which deserves special attention is the frequent oc- currence of red stripes interwoven in the waists of ladies' blouses. These red stripes usually give up their dye to the benzine, whereby not only the silks, but everything else in the machine are ruined. Waistbands containing such stripes must always be removed from the garment before cleaning. Small articles are cleaned together in a coarse muslin bag, otherwise they are very liable to be lost. If a wet cleaning must follow the chemical treatment, make a lukewarm solution of a gall soap, or of a good neutral, olive-oil soap. Then spread the article on a clean surface best on a slab of marble and apply the soap to it with a soft brush, or if the silk is very fine, with a sponge. Work as rapidly as possible to lessen the chance of the color being affected, rinse thoroughly but expeditiously, and immediately after- wards place the silk in an acetic acid bath. Centri- fuge the articles rolled separately in calico. After drying dress with a solution of gelatine, and press. 32 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. Although by washing in the machine, most of the grease and dirt attached to the goods are removed, there are frequently stains of paint, acid, fruit, etc., which are not affected or removed by the benzine. It is therefore necessary to subject the goods to a thorough examination after they have been taken from the washing machine, and if stains are found, to remove them by special means, which will be referred to later on. Cleaning and renovating real velvet goods. This kind of work constitutes a special department in cleaning establishments and will therefore be here discussed in detail. As a rule, goods of this class are injured by having been crushed or exposed to rain. The cleaner's office, therefore, is to remove the spots and other damages arising from these causes. The operation consists of two processes, namely, cleaning and steaming. First of all the vel- vet must be freed from dust, which is best accom- plished by placing the article on a soft foundation and beating thoroughly with an ordinary beater, such as is used for upholstered furniture. The article is next manipulated with a wire br-ush, special atten- tion being given to particularly hard spots. When the article has thus been freed from dust, it is thor- oughly rubbed with benzine, applied with a soft woolen rag, special attention being paid to the dam- aged parts. Stains caused by oil, paint, tar, varnish, etc., which do not yield to the treatment with ben- zine or chloroform, are removed by covering them with butter or lard, allowing them to stand for some DRY OR CHEMICAL CLEANING. 33 time, and rubbing again with benzine. The article is then dried with the assistance of heat and rubbed, in the same manner as with benzine, with rectified alcohol, using a soft woolen rag .and giving special care to spots caused by crushing and rain. Should there be spots due to corrosive substances, they should be treated with a mixture of alcohol and am- monia ; but in case the color is not revived by this means, a little logwood and green vitriol (ferrous sulphate) must be used to restore it. The spots thus dyed are allowed to dry and are again brushed. Very dirty articles must be entirely cleaned with benzine. When the velvet has been thoroughly cleaned, that is, clean to the backing, steaming may be pro- ceeded with. This is done on the steaming board, which is covered with a thick woolen cover, over which a soft linen cloth is drawn to prevent the steam from being too moist when it strikes the velvet. Care should be taken to use steam as dry as possible. The steam valves must close properly so that the flow ot steam can be regulated at will. Everything being in order, the article is stretched smoothly over the steam board, and a little steam being turned on, the damaged places are thoroughly scrubbed with a small sharp brush a nail brush will do until they have been restored, after which they are brushed with a larger softer brush, in order to remove gloss and the former brush marks and to give the whole a uniform appearance. The steam is then allowed to flow in with greater force, but the 3 34 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. article must not become too hot, so that after clos- ing the valve, it will not become moist by the con- densation of the steam. Good light is a special requisite and the work should be done in a place free from all draught, for a single cold draught of air is sufficient to spoil all. If, however, notwithstand- ing every precaution, an article becomes damp, it must be at once dried and the process repeated. Every portion of a ripped garment as well as every part of a whole article should be secured with pins so that no shifting can take place. When all the stains have been removed, the articles are exposed to a heavy flow of steam for the purpose of equaliz- ing the whole. Whole velvet jackets are for this purpose hung upon broad hangers so that the sleeves are well spread out and care should be taken not to touch the articles while still warm or damp. Articles which may have become dull may be rubbed with a soft woolen rag moistened with oil, dis- solved in benzine, but this must be done very care- fully and uniformly. These directions if carefully followed will insure success, but the work is not so easy as it looks on paper; dexterity and care are both necessary, and a certain routine is only acquired by practice. Large establishments have specially constructed velvet-steamers. Such an apparatus is so constructed that owing to interior partitions, the water must ab- solutely separate from the steam. In addition the steam-pipe is provided with a discharge pipe for the condensed water. The steamer is constructed of DRY OR CHEMICAL CLEANING. 35 copper and enclosed on all sides, so that the steam can escape only in front where it is to act. After having been cleaned the article is most suit- ably steamed by not taking too large a surface at one time, but steaming a portion thoroughly, brushing with a hard brush from bottom to top and repeating brushing and steaming until the velvet shows a uni- form appearance. When thus the entire surface of the garment has been uniformly treated, a gentle flow of dry steam is again passed through. Finally, the garment is brushed from top to bottom. By this process velvet and plush are made to look like new. Chemical cleaning of carpets . In order to achieve good results in cleaning carpets, the dust must first be removed. This is especially true of Smyrna rugs, the colors of which will never appear fresh and clean unless every particle of dust has been taken out, while washing with soap and water would more or less spoil them. The colors are likely to change and run, and the dressing on the back of the rug is apt to dissolve, and the rug become limp like a rag. When this has happened the dressing may be re- stored by nailing the rug, bottom side up, to the floor, coating it with glue, etc., and drying thor- oughly. However, this never equals the original dressing. A dust-free carpet can be chemically cleaned by spreading it out upon the floor and rubbing section by section with a linen cloth tightly rolled together and soaked in benzine and benzine soap. This will 36 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. freshen the colors and clean the carpet. Weak acetic acid may also be applied, and the carpet then dried and steamed. As the colors of carpets are generally fast to light, but seldom fast to washing, wet clean- ing should not be resorted to unless absolutely necessary. PURIFICATION OF BENZINE. It is of the greatest importance to every dry cleaner to recover as much as possible ot the benzine which he has employed for removing dirt and grease so that it can be again used for the same purpose. Many methods for doing this have been proposed, and a few of them will here be described. Filtering. The benzine is filtered in succession through sand, charcoal and flannel. A suitable fil- tering apparatus consists of a zinc drum from 40 to 50 inches high and 13 to 14 inches in diameter, pro- vided with a closely-fitting cover and with a conical lower end. At the bottom of the cylindrical part of the drum is a perforated plate to support the filter- ing medium which consists of a felt layer about one and a half inches thick, covered with clean sand, which is itself covered by coarsely-powdered animal charcoal or well-burnt wood charcoal. A tap at the bottom of the conical drum admits the withdrawal of the filtered benzine. The felt must be washed from time to time, and fresh sand and charcoal put in. While filtered benzine is not sufficiently colorless for use on light-colored articles, it answers very well for those dyed with dark or medium shades. DRY OR CHEMICAL CLEANING. 37 Purification of benzine with siilphuric acid. The benzine is compounded with dilute ( ^ to y 2 per cent.) sulphuric acid and allowed to stand quietly for 24 to 36 hours, when it will be sufficiently clari- fied and can at once be used. Although benzine so purified can be used without disadvantage for all silk and all wool grades, the acid which it retains makes it extremely destructive of all cotton fabrics, so that it is inadmissible even with silk or woolen goods, if they are lined with cotton. This destructive action comes on with time in any case, but immediately if the articles are ironed. This drawback may, however, be remedied by the following process: Bring the benzine into a large earthenware vessel, and while stirring constantly, mix it with sulphuric acid in the proportion of one quart acid to 100 quarts benzine. Allow the mixture to stand quietly 24 to 48 hours. If, however, the benzine is to be used the next day, draw it off care- fully into a lead-lined, sheet-iron vessel and mix it with one pound of lime powder obtained by slaking ordinary lime ; the powder should be perfectly dry. In about 12 hours all the dirt and lime will have settled on the bottom of the vessel. The benzine is then drawn off through a tap placed about four inches above the bottom of the vessel. Benzine thus purified has an odor different from that of the fresh or distilled product ; the odor, however, disap- pears immediately on drying. The benzine is not perfectly water-white, it showing a yellowish tint, but it can without hesitation be used for goods of 38 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. dark and light color, including silk. Even white garments turn out perfectly clear if after washing with the clarified benzine they are rinsed in fresh benzine. The method of clarifying benzine invented by Hasselbach is said to yield very satisfactory results. It consists in mixing the benzine with from I to 2 per cent, of its weight of concentrated sulphuric acid, the quantity depending on the amount of dirt in the benzine. The mixture of benzine and acid is well shaken and allowed to stand until it has com- pletely separated into two layers. The upper layer of benzine is then decanted and mixed thoroughly with i per cent, of its weight of the following solu- tion : Alum, 20 ozs. ; acetate of lead, 12 ozs. ; sul- phate of magnesia, 5 ozs. ; sulphate of soda, 5 ozs. , water, 10 gallons. The mixture is allowed to stand and decanted from the precipitated lead sulphate before use. The acetate of alumina eventually present throws out all the fatty acids from the ben- zine. The soluble sulphates make the liquid heavy, so that the purified benzine will rise to the surface, whence it can be drawn off for further use. Deodorization of benzine. Dissolve in the badly smelling benzine about I to 2 per cent, of its weight of a free fatty acid. Then add about ^ per cent, of tannin and mix intimately. Finally add suffi- cient soda or potash lye, eventually also milk of lime, to saponify the fatty acid and neutralize the tannin, and shake repeatedly. After some time the milky fluid separates into two layers a salty, sapon- DRY OR CHEMICAL CLEANING. 39 aceous slime on the bottom and supernatant clear benzine almost free from color and odor. This benzine when decanted and filtered may be at once used for many technical purposes, and when dis- tilled yields an excellent and pure product. The fatty acids of tallow, olive oil, or of other fats and oils, may be used for the purpose, but they should show but little odor of rancid fat. Oleic acid may also be employed, but it must previously be shaken with a T V per cent, soda solution to get rid of the badly smelling volatile fatty acids, especially butyric acid. Purification of benzine by distillation. The best, and in fact only satisfactory, process for the recovery and purification of benzine as yet known is distilla- tion. In proper hands the distillation is not only perfectly safe, but it wastes less of the benzine than any other purification process. In clearing benzine with sulphuric acid or benzine powders, the organic dirt particles undergo a change by which the dirty gray coloring turns clear and yellowish, but a per- fectly colorless fluid which could be safely used for cleaning white or light-colored articles is not ob- tained. Besides it is doubtful whether the benzine thus cleared possesses the strength and power be- longing to fresh or distilled benzine. Benzine cleared by repeated filtering will certainly lose the greater part of its dirt, but none of the grease and soap absorbed by it. Benzine cleared in this manner will also not be perfectly colorless, although it is much better than that cleared with sulphuric acid. 40 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. Any one having doubts on the subject should con- vince himself by making a trial of the two methods. For instance, light clothes washed in benzine, cleared with sulphuric acid, never look clear and fresh. In proof of this, take a dress and wash the skirt in fresh or distilled benzine, to which has been added a small quantity of benzine soap, and then wash the waist in benzine cleared .with sulphuric acid, to which likewise a little benzine soap has been added. The difference will at once be apparent, for while the skirt will be perfect, the waist will have a grayish yellow tinge. No matter whether a cleaning establishment be large or small, a distilling apparatus should be one of its appointments. The small quantity of steam needed for distilling can be provided by a small steam generator, in case other power is wanting. These steam generators are chiefly used where no more than one-half atmospheric pressure is required, as for steaming, distilling, dyeing, and the like. They have a wrought-iron fire box, require little fuel, and are at the same time economical and most satisfac- tory. They take up little room because they need not be walled in, and can be set up in any place pos- sessing a chimney. In purifying benzine by distilling, care should be had not to fill the apparatus above the mark indi- cated on the gauge and in the commencement of dis- tillation to regulate the steam, so that the benzine runs off cold and water-clear from the condenser. With too high a steam pressure oil and fat pass over DRY OR CHEMICAL CLEANING. with the benzine vapors, and therefore the pressure should not exceed ]/ 2 atmosphere. Fig. 6 shows a practical benzine distiller. It is composed of three principal parts : The kettle for the reception of the dirty benzine ; the condenser in which the benzine vapor is cooled off, and the di- vider through which the distilled benzine flows out. FIG. 6. The apparatus is filled with the dirty benzine up to the mark indicated on the gauge, through the hole A, which is hermetically closed after the filling. Steam is then gradually introduced, and the cold water cock B turned on, the still being then in work- ing order. The benzine flows through valve C t while the water separated from the benzine has its outlet through the pipe D. After the benzine ceases to flow the steam is shut off and the valve E opened so 42 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. that the dirt residues may run out. By this simple process the apparatus actually cleans itself, and no benzine is lost. The apparatus is constructed of hammered pol- ished copper, is very strong, and can be easily kept clean and in good working condition. The benzine still shown in Fig. 7 is manufactured FIG. 7. by Edward C. Grever & Co., Cincinnati, Ohio. It is constructed of extra-heavy sheet copper, with flanged centre and dome. It rests on a strong wrought-iron frame at a convenient height for reaching all of the valves and cocks. The still is supplied with steam cock and coil, gauge glass, vacuum valve, air cock, waste cock, worm, valve, indicator and hand hole. DRY OR CHEMICAL CLEANING. 43 A simple method of purifying the dark and fre- quently perfectly black benzine previous to distilla- tion is as follows : Mix the benzine with dilute soda solution (about 10 quarts of soda solution to 1,000 quarts of benzine.) After separation has taken place, draw off the lye and wash the benzine with water. FIG. 8. The benzine thus treated is then subjected to dis- tillation. The apparatus shown in Fig. 8 is especially suit- able for the distillation of the benzine treated in the above manner, it having the advantage of working continuously. A is a cylindrical vessel of sheet-iron or cast-iron with arched top and bottom, the latter being provided with a discharge- cock, /. The top 44 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. is furnished with the inlet-pipe h, the float d, the steam-pipe a, and the steam discharge-pipe b. At k is placed a glass gauge. In order to be enabled to observe the influx, the inlet-pipe h is, at i, pro- vided with an intermediate glass tube. The float d is connected with the jointed lever /in such a man- ner that in moving up or down it opens or closes the cock g. The pipe a for the admission of steam is bent upwards in the interior of the vessel and pro- vided above its mouth with an arched iron plate, whereby the . current of steam is uniformly dis- tributed over the surface of the fluid. The pipe can be closed by the cock y. The pipe b for discharg- ing the steam is, at c, provided with a so-called safety-funnel of the ordinary construction, which prevents any of the fluid to be distilled from being carried to the condenser. At x the pipe enters the worms oo. B is the reservoir for the benzine to be distilled. In the cover of this reservoir, which is also constructed of iron, is a man-hole, so that it may be cleansed when necessary; n is the funnel-pipe for filling the reservoir, and m the gauge. On the bottom of the reservoir B is the discharge- cock v, which is directly connected with the pipe h. C is the condenser with the worm oo, the inlet-pipe for water s, and the discharge-pipe t. Below the condenser stands a cylindrical iron vessel, D, for the reception of the distillate. It is hermetically closed by a lid in which is secured the discharge pipe for gas, r. In the funnel-like expansion of the upper end of r lies a light hollow metal ball which serves as DRY OR CHEMICAL CLEANING. 45 a valve. On the bottom of the vessel D is a dis- charge-cock or a bent tube, g, so fixed that it is laterally inclined. The worm o enters the vessel be- low the cover. The vessel is further provided with a glass gauge, p. The mode of working with this apparatus is as follows : The reservoir B being filled with the dirty benzine, the cock v is opened. Since the vessel A is still empty, the float d assumes its lowest position, the arrangement being such that then, by the jointed lever f connected with the float, the cock "is opened, and hence the benzine can pass from B to A. By the benzine gradually rising in A, the float is lifted and the cock g gradually closed, until, when A is about two-thirds full, it is entirely closed and the in- flux interrupted. Now open the cock y for the ad- mission of steam, and distillation will commence in a few minutes. Now since, with one volume of water in the form of steam 8 to 10 times the volume of hydrocarbons, according to the degree of their volatility and height of their boiling-points, are driven off, it is evident that the level in the vessel A will gradually fall and the float d sink down, whereby the cock g is opened and a fresh influx in proportion to the decrease of the level in A produced. With continuous working so much waste- water collects in the vessel A that the cock g finally remains entirely closed in consequence of the high position of the float; hence, the discharge- cock /has to be occasion- ally opened. However, with careful manipulation it is not necessary to shut off .the steam nor to inter- 46 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. rupt distillation even for a few minutes. The distil- late which collects in the vessel D consists of water and the oily hydrocarbons ; the former is drawn off by occasionally inclining the pipe q. In the begin- ning of distillation the steam flowing into A forces out the air through the worm o to D, and from here through the pipe r into the open air, for which pur- pose r may be connected with a chimney. The previously mentioned metal ball in r is, however, absolutely required, otherwise a considerable loss of benzine by volatilization may be incurred. With this apparatus from 2000 to 2500 quarts can be conveniently distilled in 12 hours, the quantity depending, of course, on the volatility and the boil- ing-point of the material to be purified. II. REMOVING STAINS. THE process to be adopted for removing stains will largely depend on the material of which the textile fabric is made, and also whether it is dyed or not dyed, and on the character of the stains them- selves. The latter may be broadly divided into two classes, viz.: Stains of a fatty and a non-fatty nature. Besides there have to be taken into consideration stains which destroy the color and those which have no effect upon it. In the former case the stain itself may be readily removed, but sometimes it will be impossible to restore the impaired color. The first thing is to find out what has caused the stain. If no conclusion can be reached on this point, the clean- ing agents it is proposed to try must be tested as to their action on the dye on some part of the garment which is invisible when it is worn, or at any rate where change in the dye would be likely to escape observation. This must be done before the stains in a conspicuous place are meddled with. It must be remembered that every failure to re- move a stain increases the difficulty of dealing with it, and one of the chief troubles of the profes- sional cleaner is with stains which the owners of the .garments have themselves tried in vain to get rid of. (47) 48 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. The tools required for the removal of stains con- sist of tampions, some pieces of buckskin, large and small brushes, and a marble or glass slab. A glass slab is to be preferred to a wooden board, because it does not stain, is readily cleaned, and is not attacked by chemicals. Small hard wood boards rounded off on both sides, which if necessary may be pushed into sleeves, etc., are also very useful. The removal of stains from white goods is accom- plished with comparative ease, as the question of color does not come into consideration, and quite energetic means may be resorted to. Cotton fabrics or fabrics containing cotton should not be treated with strong acids, as they have a destructive effect upon the fibre, dilute acids even having some action. If an acid is required, certain, organic acids such as acetic, oxalic and tartaric acids may be used. Linen and other fabrics made from vegetable fibres should be treated in the same way as cotton. Wool, silk and all animal fibres should not be treated with strongly alkaline liquids. Weak ammonia, as well as weak solutions of soda may be applied, but it is preferable never to use any other alkali than am- monia, which does not act upon fabrics made of these fibres. Acids of moderate strength have no effect on animal fibres. However, white goods .are most readily cleaned with soap and water. In difficult cases, chlorine and similar agents are employed. Soap is also an excellent agent for removing stains from colored fabrics, provided the dye is fast. For shaped and REMOVING STAINS. 49 trimmed articles it is, however, best not to use it, or at least very sparingly. Many stains can be removed with water. The principal requisite is to use only distilled or soft water, otherwise a white ring is formed around the stain which has been treated, and this ring does not disappear. Spread the article upon the glass-plate, moisten a brush with rain-water and brush the stain until it is no longer visible ; then dry with a piece of buckskin, as otherwise the water will form rings, es- pecially with light-colored articles. The treatment is rendered more efficient by adding to the water a little salt for white goods, and for colored ones, a little spirit. For silks as much spirit is added as can be done without affecting the dyes. Goods also dry much faster when spirit has been added to the water. Below an account of the chief cleaning agents used is given. The chemicals should be absolutely chem- ically pure, otherwise it may happen that in remov- ing one stain a new one may be produced. Ether. Pure ether is a colorless, very limpid fluid, of a peculiar, penetrating odor, and at first a very pungent taste , the after-taste is cooling, and should not be bitter. Ether is extraordinarily vola- tile, boils at from 93 to 95 F., and burns with a bright yellow flame, yielding water and carbonic acid. Its vapor mixed with a large quantity of air, if ignited, explodes with great violence. In conse- quence of this property and the great density of its vapor, extreme care should be exercised in handling ether or manipulating with it in the vicinity of a 4 50 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. flame. The latter should never be done if it can possibly be avoided, nor should the ether be allowed to stand in a warm room. Ether is miscible in all proportions with spirit of wine, but not with water, which dissolves one-tenth its volume. The presence of water and alcohol is detected by mixing the ether with an equal bulk of carbon disulphide, which should result in a perfectly clear liquid ; a piece of potassium kept in the ether for 24 hours becomes coated with a yellowish film, and imparts a yellow- ish color to the liquid if alcohol be present. Ani- line-violet is insoluble in absolute ether, but in the presence of I per cent, of alcohol colors the liquid distinctly. Ether is an excellent solvent for fats and resins. Chloroform. This is less dangerous than ether. It is a limpid, colorless, diffusive liquid, not inflam- mable, of an agreeable ethereal odor, a hot sac- charine taste, and a neutral reaction. In a perfectly pure state it is difficult to keep, and hence some alcohol is added, so that its specific gravity varies between 1.488 and 1.492, and its boiling-point is increased to 149 F. When brought upon the skin chloroform evaporates rapidly, with the production of a cold sensation. When chloroform is shaken in a perfectly clean glass-stoppered vial with an equal bulk of sulphuric acid, no color should be imparted to either liquid after remaining in contact for 24 hours. Should a coloration appear, the chloroform is not pure. If 5 centimeters of purified chloroform be thoroughly REMOVING STAINS. 51 agitated with 10 cubic centimeters of distilled water, the latter, when separated, should not affect blue litmus-paper (absence of acids), nor test-solution of nitrate of silver (chloride), nor test-solution of iodide of potassium (free chlorine). Alcohol is a colorless, very mobile fluid and pos- sesses a characteristic odor and taste. When ex- posed to the air in a thin layer, it evaporates rapidly without leaving behind a residue. It is very inflam- mable and burns with a non-luminous, blue flame. It is miscible with water, ether and chloroform and gives clear mixtures with the majority of volatile oils. Pure alcohol dissolves either entirely, or par- tially, fat oils, fats and many resins. It is also a solvent for numerous organic and inorganic com- pounds (salts, alkaloids, etc.). Ammonia. This is one of the most important agents for the removal of stains. It forms a color- less fluid, with a strong, penetrating odor and a pungent, acrid taste. When highly concentrated it reddens the skin and produces blisters. It imparts a brown color to turmeric-paper, a blue color to red litmus-paper, and a green color to the juice of violet flowers. When shaken with an equal quantity of lime water, it should yield a clear, or at the utmost slightly turbid, fluid, otherwise it has been in contact with air and absorbed carbonic acid from the latter. Empyreu- matic products are recognized by the dark colora- tion, as well as by the odor, which appear on heating the fluid previously slightly acidulated with sulphuric acid. 52 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. In commerce ammonia is generally sold according to degrees of Baume. For removing stains the pro- duct of 1 8 to 20 Be. suffices. Ammonia suitable for cleaning purposes should evaporate at the temperature of boiling water with- out leaving any residue. When using it for the re- moval of stains it should first be ascertained whether any of the colors suffer a change by it. Benzine has been previously described. It is used both alone and mixed with other solvents. These mixtures, however, become unfit for use if they turn turbid. Stains of axle grease and the like are rubbed with warm benzine soap solution, and then well rinsed in benzine. The same process is good for coffee, chocolate, blood and gelatine stains. Carbon-tetrachloride has been previously described. It is an excellent agent for removing grease stains, taking out even old stains, and does not make an ugly border to the place as benzine does. Acetic acid. This increases the efficacy of alco- hol, benzine and ether in many cases. Acetic acid occurs in commerce in various degrees of purity and strength. For our purposes chemic- ally pure acid can only be taken into consideration, and it should especially be free from empyreumatic substances. The degree of acidity is of minor con- sideration, since too strong an acid can be readily reduced by the addition of water. Acetic acid is a colorless fluid of a peculiar pun- gent taste, and when applied to the human skin causes redness and swelling, followed by paleness of REMOVING STAINS. 53 the part. Prolonged application is followed by vesi- cation and desquamation of the cuticle. At the ordinary temperature acetic acid evaporates per- ceptibly ; it boils at 244.4 F. Acetic acid neutral- ized with pure carbonate of soda and diluted with water should not be changed by potassium perman- ganate solution. Acetic acid is used, diluted with water for remov- ing stains caused by alkalies and for livening up colors injured by street dust, especially on ladies' skirts. The goods are afterwards rinsed with clean water. Care must always be exercised in using acetic acid on dyed goods. Fusel oil. This is an excellent solvent for var- nishes, oil-colors and resins. The smell of it is got rid of by airing the cleaned articles. Glycerin is a syrupy liquid having the specific gravity 1.28 at 59 F. It is transparent, colorless, inodorous, very sweet, and somewhat warm to the taste, oily to the touch, without action upon litmus, and soluble in all proportions in water and alcohol ; also in spirit of ether, but not in ether, chloroform, benzol, fixed oils, or volatile oils. Glycerin is a solvent for alkalies, alkaloids, dye- stuffs, and other bodies. It also serves for finishing fine fabrics, etc. Borax. Borax forms large, colorless, monoclinic prisms, which are transparent, inodorous, have a mild, sweetish, cooling, and afterwards alkaline, taste, and in dry air effloresce superficially and become opaque. It is soluble in 12 to 15 parts of cold, and 54 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. in 2 parts of boiling, water, and in 4 to 5 parts of glycerin, but insoluble in alcohol. The aqueous so- lution has a slightly alkaline taste, colors red litmus- paper blue, and the juice of violet flowers green. Borax is very frequently adulterated with Glauber's salt (sodium sulphate), rock-salt (sodium chloride), and potassium chloride. If, in a dilute and heated solution strongly acidulated with hydrochloric acid, a heavy precipitate is formed by barium chloride solution, Glauber's salt may be supposed to be pre- sent. An admixture of rock-salt is recognized by the white flakes which are formed in an aqueous solution acidulated with nitric acid by the addition of nitrate of silver. Potassium chloride is recognized in the solution by the formation of a white crystal- line precipitate on adding a large quantity of tartaric acid. The presence of carbonate of soda is shown by the effervescence of the solution on adding hy- drochloric acid. Borax is used for fixing mineral dye-stuffs, as an addition to starch, and as a substitute for alkalies (potash, soda;. Hyposulphite of sodium occurs in commerce in large, transparent, colorless, monoclinic prisms or plates, which have the specific gravity 1.74, are neutral or faintly alkaline, are inodorous, and have a cooling, bitter, slightly alkaline, and sulphurous taste. It is permanent in the air, soluble at a med- ium temperature in less than an equal quantity of water, but insoluble in spirits of wine. By adding an acid to the aqueous solution gaseous sulphurous acid escapes, while sulphur separates in white flakes. REMOVING STAINS. 55 It is used as a bleaching agent, and also as a de- chlorizing agent for fabrics bleached with chlorine. Stannous chloride, or tin salt, occurs in commerce in a solid form as well as in solution. In a solid form it forms white, columnar crystals which are readily soluble in water, and have an acrid, metallic taste. It being poisonous when taken internally, care should be used in handling it. The solution of tin-salt in water always shows a more or less milky turbidity. Chloride of lime is a white or whitish powder, or in friable lumps, dry or but slightly damp, with a feeble odor of chlorine, and a disagreeable bitter and saline taste. Under certain circumstances it may undergo decomposition on keeping, either with the evolution of oxygen, or by conversion into a mixture of chlor- ide and chlorate of calcium. On exposure to the air it absorbs and combines with carbonic acid and becomes moist. It has an alkaline reaction, but finally bleaches test-paper. When rubbed with water it is almost entirely dissolved, the lime remain- ing behind. This forms the chloride of lime solu- tion which serves as a basis for the bleaching and decolorizing process, and for the preparation of the various bleaching fluids. Thus the well-known eau de Javelle is obtained by mixing a filtered solution of I part of chloride of lime in 12 parts water with a solution of potassium carbonate (potash) (i part potash in 4 parts water). The mixture is allowed to settle and is filtered. Chloride of lime solution in the same manner de- 56 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. composed by alum or aluminium sulphate gives Wilson's bleaching fluid ; and by sulphate of mag- nesium, Ramsey's or Grouvelle 's bleaching fluid. These bleaching-fluids are colorless, or of a faintly yellowish color. They are extensively used for bleaching textile fibres, fabrics, and wash-clothes, and serve also for removing fruit and red-wine stains from the latter. A too vigorous action of the chlorine upon the textile fibre is counteracted by subsequent immer- sion of the fabric in solution of sodium hyposulphite or ammonia. Chlorim-water. This is less frequently used than bleaching-fluid. It forms a clear, greenish-yellow liquid, possessing the suffocating odor and acrid, irri- tating taste of chlorine. It evaporates without leav- ing any residue, but separates crystals of chlorine hydrate when cooled to the freezing-point of water. Tartaric acid crystallizes in colorless, oblique, rhombic prisms or tables, which are inodorous and have a strongly acid and disagreeable taste. They have the specific gravity 1.764, dissolve at 62.6 F. in 0.6 part of water, 2 parts of 85 per cent, alcohol, 3.6 parts of absolute alcohol, 23 parts of ether, and 250 parts of absolute ether; they are more soluble in the same liquids at the boiling temperature, and are likewise soluble in methyl alcohol and in glycerin, but insoluble in chloroform and benzine. It is a complete substitute for the more expensive Citric acid, with which it is frequently mixed, and in many cases even sold as such. Hence, whenever REMOVING STAINS. 57 citric acid is prescribed tartaric acid may be substi- tuted for it. Oxalic acid forms flat, oblique, rhombic prisms, which are colorless, transparent, not deliquescent, inodorous, of a strongly acid taste and reaction, and soluble in about 8 parts of water at ordinary temper- ature, and in nearly all proportions of boiling water. They dissolve in 2^ parts of cold and 1.8 parts of boiling strong alcohol, and are but slightly soluble in ether. Oxalic acid is very poisonous. It is rather cheap, and as in some cases it serves as a complete substitute for tartaric and citric acids, it is very frequently used. Acid oxalate, or binoxalate, of potassium, popu- larly called salt of sorrel, is a combination of oxalic acid with potassium carbonate. It occurs in com- merce in large colorless crystals which dissolve with difficulty in water. Oxalic acid as well as acid oxa- late of potassium is much used for removing stains. Hydrochloric acid. This well-known acid should be entirely free from iron, and, hence, should not be colored red by sulphocyanide of potassium. Ox-gall should never be used as furnished by abattoirs. In that state it forms a green, or brown- ish-green, viscid, transparent, or more frequently translucent fluid of a peculiar, disagreeable odor. It is best first to cleanse it, which is done by mixing it in a bottle with an equal part by weight of 90 per cent, alcohol. The mixture is occasionally agitated, then set aside, filtered, and finally evaporated to a syrupy consistency, or to complete dryness. In this 58 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. state ox-gall forms a clear solution in water, and in 90 per cent, alcohol. When cleaning dust coats it is best to go over them entirely as in treating them partially rings are readily formed. Hems and seams, as well as lined cuffs and collars should be treated last, slightly moist. As scouring water use a mixture of water 6 parts, ether 5 parts, and acetic acid I part. In case stains of oil, paint or other difficult stains are found, the wet article is best treated with ben- zine, then using immediately the above-mentioned scouring water, and finally drying thoroughly with a piece of buckskin. Morning dresses, rain coats, etc., which, as a rule, are only soiled around' the bottoms are treated by moistening the stained portions with water acidulated with acetic acid, or if the color will stand it, with soap water. Then rinse, scour, rinse and centrifuge. Stains in velvet and plush are removed with ether and water, brushing against the grain and when dry, with the grain. For dark and black velvet, alcohol is very suitable. In removing stains from lined garments it is ad- visable to open, if possible, a seam, and push a small board covered with linen between lining and goods to prevent the former from becoming wet. In case some stains cannot be completely removed from white garments, try to hide them as much as possible by covering them with a white substance, such as starch, gypsum, magnesia, or talcum. The following scouring water may be advan-. REMOVING STAINS. 59 tageously used for silk: Distilled water, I quart; ether, I quart; acetic acid, ^ quart. For one- color, acid-dyed woolen stuffs use only distilled water acidulated with acetic acid ; for one-color woolen stuffs dyed with wood-dyes, distilled water with an addition of ammonia and ether ; for one- color and colored half-wool and cotton goods, dis- tilled water with an addition of ether; for colored woolen and half-wool stuffs, distilled water only ; for black and white half-wool stuffs, as well as for striped and checkered, a scouring water consisting of distilled water, i quart; ether, i pint, and 4^ ozs. common salt. In removing stains the operation must not be carried on too wet, and nothing but the stain to be removed should be treated. The spot should be dried as quickly as possible to prevent the formation of rings, which is frequently the case in working with watery substances. Light-colored silk goods are most difficult to manipulate, as rings are likely to form and the places to be treated readily lose lustre. In this case attempts should be made to dissolve the stain or remove it from the wrong side of the goods. This refers to the treatment with water ; benzine and ethereal substances may be more energetically applied. As auxiliary agents for the rapid absorption of water, hygroscopic substances are used, plaster of Paris and talcum powder being particularly suitable for the purpose. When a stain has been removed scatter by means of a fine sieve plaster of Paris over 60 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. the spot ; the layer must be sufficiently deep to ab- sorb all the water. Then hang the article up, and when dry remove the plaster of Paris by rubbing and brushing. This process is, however, suitable only for light-colored goods. For dark-colored stuffs terre de Sauniere or French earth is used, if a piece of buckskin does not suffice for the absorption of the water. The rings formed in removing stains in raw silk garments, as well as water and rain stains, are got rid of by vigorous steaming. Stains which have not been dissolved by the ben- zine in dry cleaning are in most cases readily re- moved by carefully applying the following scouring water : Dissolve in 5 quarts of distilled water 2j^ ozs. of common salt and add to the solution 8 ozs. 90 per cent, alcohol and I ^ ozs. ether. Shake the mixture thoroughly. It is used as follows : Moisten a clean rag or piece of soft leather with the mixture and try to remove the stain by rubbing very carefully. Silk or goods with delicate colors has to be manipulated with special care, as by rubbing too vigorously the colors are injured and a whitish shine is produced which can only be removed by re-dyeing. This rule not only applies to the above-mentioned scouring water, but to the removal of stains in general. The lighter and the more skilled the hand of the operator is, the better for the article to be cleaned. An excellent soap for the removal of wine and vinegar stains is prepared by mixing 16 parts of REMOVING STAINS. 6 1 ordinary soap with 2 parts turpentine and I part ammonia. A good soap for the removal of all kinds of stains is prepared as follows : Reduce 2 Ibs. Castile soap and i Ib. cocoa-nut soap to thin shavings, mix with 4%^ ozs. alum, I oz. alcohol, 8 ozs. potash solution, and 4^ ozs. ox-gall, and heat. The next day add to the mass 2 quarts of alcohol, 4 fresh eggs, and 2 ozs. of spirits of camphor, and stir until intimate combination is effected. A good soap for the removal of stains from silk is obtained as follows : Melt 2 parts of white grain soap and add I part Venice turpentine and I part ox-gall. Stir constantly while mixing the ingredients. Another formula is as follows : Saponify 1 1 Ibs. of cocoa-nut oil and 6 Ibs. of tallow with 8 Ibs. of soda lye of 40 Be. To the soap thus obtained add 12 ozs. turpentine, 13 ozs. ox-gall, and about i^ ozs. ultramarine green. Ox gall is subject to rapid putrefaction and may be preserved as follows : Open the gall bladder and express the fluid. Mix 100 parts of the fluid with 7 parts of acetic ether; the latter must of course be carefully removed at the time the gall is to be used. Another soap for silk tissues has the following composition : Reduce 9 Ibs. of grain soap to very fine shavings and mix with 20 Ibs. of ox gall. Evaporate the mixture until a sample solidifies upon a glass plate. Then add to the mass while it is still quite hot, a mixture of 10^ ozs. sugar, 10^ ozs. honey, 8^ ozs. Venice turpentine and 22^ ozs. ammonia. 62 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. For the removal of stains from calico, the follow- ing soap may be used to advantage: Mix 9 Ibs. of white soap with 4^ Ibs. of ox gall and 14^ ozs. of Venice turpentine. Ammonia may be substituted for ox gall. Reduce 4^ Ibs. of white grain soap to shavings and heat in an iron kettle in a water-bath together with 2^ Ibs. ammonia. When solution is complete add, in order to obtain an actually solid soap, 7 ozs. of alcohol. Scouring-fluids. a. For leather and tissues. Ether i part, turpentine 4 parts. b. Camphor 8 parts, alcohol I part, ether I part. c. For coarse tissues. Mix I part of ether with 9 parts of turpentine. Scouring-fluid for all kinds of stains, the deriva- tion of which cannot be ascertained. Dissolve 8 parts of Castile soap in 30 parts alcohol and add I part turpentine and the yolks of 4 eggs. Or: Heat to the boiling point 20 parts ox gall, 40 parts borax, 500 parts alcohol, and 200 parts ammonia. Then add 30 parts glycerin and the yolks of 2 eggs. English scouring-fluid for the removal of stains of resin, acid, wax, tar and grease, consists of 100 parts by weight of 95 per cent, alcohol, 35 of ammonia of specific gravity 0.875 and *5 of benzine. Bring the weighed benzine into a glass vessel, add the alcohol, shake thoroughly, and finally add the ammonia. Scouring pencils, a. Soap powder 70 parts, pul- verized borax 10, carbonate of magnesia 25, fresh ox-gall 20, soft soap 10. Dissolve the borax in the REMOVING STAINS. 63 ox-gall, assisting solution by rubbing, then mix with the solution, in very small portions at a time, the carbonate of magnesia, gradually add the soap pow- der and sufficient soft soap to obtain a mass of a doughy consistency. Scatter magnesia powder upon a smooth board, roll the mass out into long sticks and cut up the latter into suitable size. b. Mix 30 parts of quillaia extract and 30 parts of borax and make the mixture into a stiff mass with 1 20 parts of fresh ox-gall and about 450 parts of soap powder. Form the mass into sticks. Schwemmer s scotiring fluid. This is a patented article. The solution of ammonia in alcohol and ether frequently used for the removal of stains is so mixed with turpentine that on shaking, the fluids form an emulsion which remains constant during the operation of scouring. A suitable mixture consists of 4 ozs. turpentine, 4 ozs. ammonia, 2 ozs. alcohol, 2 ozs. ether, and 2 ozs. acetic ether. Dust stains are best removed by thorough beating and brushing. Old, dried-in stains in fabrics of wool, silk, satin, etc., are brushed over with a little yolk of egg mixed with alcohol, which is allowed to dry and then scraped off. Any adhering yolk of egg is finally removed by means of a clean linen rag and warm water. Stains of unknown derivation in plain or dyed cotton goods are first treated with a very weak, luke- warm solution of soap, to each quart of which a teaspoonful of ammonia has been added. Washing is effected with a sponge or tampion dipped into the fluid. The fabric is finally washed in water. 64 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. It may here be again remarked that before at- tempting the removal of stains, an experiment should in all cases be made on a portion of the fabric where, if a change in the color should take place, it would be least noticed. For cleaning woolen goods, especially when col- ored, prepare a mixture of 20 parts ox-gall, 40 parts borax, 200 parts water of ammonia, and 500 parts alcohol. When solution is complete, add 30 parts glycerin and the yolk of 2 eggs. Wash the fabric in the boiling solution, using a wooden spoon for handling it. Then rinse it in clean warm water and dry it in the air, but not in the sun. Silk, satin, etc., are treated with a solution of 40 parts borax, and 10 parts soap in 70 parts dilute alcohol, and 30 parts ether. Add to the solution the yolks of 2 eggs and 10 parts carbonate of mag- nesia. Thoroughly shake the mixture before use and apply it to the stains. Then wash in lukewarm water, rinse in cold water, and dry at a moderate heat. Smooth with a moderately warm iron. Any adhering particles of magnesia are removed with a brush. Grease stains, recent as well as old, are best re- moved by dry cleaning. A good plan of dealing with oil stains is to rub them over with a little oleic acid, allow this to soak in, then treat the stains with soap and water, which will, as a rule, be found effec- tive in removing them. However, as the fabric may be affected by the soap, the following plan may be recommended : Wet the fabrics, with the exception REMOVING STAINS. 65 of silk, and after placing several thicknesses of blot- ting-paper under the stained portions, rub with a tampion and a sponge dipped in benzine or turpen- tine. When the stain has disappeared from the sur- face, place a piece of blotting-paper upon it and pass a hot flat-iron several times over it. The entire fabric is finally washed in warm soap-water, to which ammonia has been added, or, still better, in a warm decoction of soaproot or of quillaia-bark. The use of benzine for the removal of grease spots has the disadvantage that a spotty appearance is frequently left on the fabric. To overcome this de- fect, the use of the following preparations has been recommended : Benzinized magnesia. This is prepared by mix- ing calcined magnesia (not carbonate of magnesia) with just sufficient pure benzine so as to moisten it without being pasty. It should be just wet enough so that when the mass is pressed between the fingers, a small quantity of liquid benzine is squeezed out. In this state it forms a crummy mass which is kept for use in a well-corked, somewhat wide-mouthed, glass bottle. For use spread the preparation quite thickly over the stains and rub it thoroughly to and fro with the tip of the finger. Brush off the small lumps of earthy matter thus formed, lay on more of the preparation, alllowing it to remain until the ben- zine has entirely evaporated, and then brush off the adhering particles of magnesia. Gelatinized benzine may be used in the same manner, it being in many cases preferable to ben- 5 66 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. zinized magnesia. It is prepared by dissolving in a quart bottle 120 parts of soap in 180 parts of hot water and adding 30 parts of ammonia. Then add sufficient water to fill the bottle three-quarters full, next sufficient benzine to fill it entirely, and shake. Of this solution, mix one teaspoonful in a half- pint bottle with some benzine, and, after mixing, fill the bottle with benzine, shaking constantly. With this gelatine, stains of 'all sorts can be removed without risk of injury to even the most delicate colors. However, if, on account of the employment of benzine, the formation of circles, rings, etc., is feared, scatter upon the place, while still wet, plaster of Paris or talcum, which after drying is brushed off. In many cases, especially when the grease-stains are fresh, the damage may be remedied by the use of ammonia or weak soda solution, and subsequent washing. From silk fabrics grease-stains are re- moved with benzinized magnesia or gelatinized ben zine; etherized magnesia, which is prepared in a similar manner as benzinized magnesia, being, how- ever, preferable for the purpose. Etherized magnesia is prepared by mixing calcined magnesia with sufficient ether to form a thin paste, which is spread over the stains. When the ether has vaporized, brush off the magnesia spot and finally rub with a piece of soft white bread. Under certain conditions, etherized magnesia as well as alcohol, may, however, act energetically upon colors. All stains of a fatty nature disappear by thorough chemical cleaning, and there remain behind only the REMOVING STAI1S 7 S. 67 so-called " water-stains " due to milk, soup, beer, etc., which can be brushed out with water. Such stains as well as those of coffee, wine, sugar and tea disappear from white goods by treatment with luke- warm soap solution and thorough washing with water. Checked and all other stuffs for which soap cannot be used are treated with cold water slightly acidulated with acetic acid, which generally accom- plishes the object and does not injure even the most delicate colors. When the entire front of a coat is covered with smaller and larger stains of this nature it is best to work from seam to seam, spreading the coat upon the scouring board, brushing it thoroughly and quickly with water, and absorbing the latter at once with a piece of buckskin. Special attention must be paid to the lining because by pressure it frequently produces darker stains. Care must also be had that the coat does not lose shape by this treatment and that the stiffening and interlining are not shifted ; hence as little water as possible should be used. Very old grease stains are first treated with chloro- form and then with benzinized magnesia. Stains of solid fats, such as tallow, lard, wax, paraffine, cere- sine, etc., are first softened with castor oil and then treated as above. Saponification of the grease in the tissues by the use of ammonia or soda lye can- not be recommended for wool and silk, and for cotton and linen only when the colors are fast to soap ; with these materials satisfactory results are, as a rule, also obtained with ether, benzine or chloro- form. 68 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. Grease stains upon the back of garments caused by long hair are removed by rubbing with a piece of cotton dipped in the following mixture : Ammonia 4 spoonfuls, common salt I spoonful ; shake thor- oughly. Or, dissolve a small quantity of gall soap in water, moisten a small brush with the solution, brush the stains and rinse in clean water. Paint and varnish stains are first treated with pure turpentine. Old stains are best removed by repeated applications of a mixture of turpentine and chloroform, the solvent being allowed to soak well in before the application of blotting paper as de- scribed under " grease stains." Chloroform by it- self is also an excellent solvent for old stains and the removal of the latter with benzinized magnesia is then readily effected. Stains of resin, tar, or wagon-grease. To remove these and . similar stains from white goods, moisten the fabric, rub the stain with a sponge dipped in turpentine, place blotting-paper beneath and on top of the grease spot, and pass a hot iron several times over it. Finally wash the entire fabric in warm soap water. Colored cotton or woolen fabrics are mois- tened, the stains thoroughly soaped and after allow- ing the soap to act for a few minutes, washed alter- nately with turpentine and water. If the stains do not yield to this treatment, spread a mixture of yolk of egg and turpentine over the stains ; when dry scrape it off, and finally wash in hot water. As a final means, the fabric may be washed in REMOVING STAINS. 69 water to which some hydrochloric acid has been added, and thoroughly rinsed in soft water. Articles of silk, satin, etc., are moistened, and the stains rubbed with a sponge dipped in a mixture of ether and chloroform. When the stain has disap- peared scatter bole (pipe-clay) upon the place, cover with blotting-paper, and pass a hot iron several times over it. If the stain has not disappeared, mix yolk of egg with chloroform, spread the mixture over the stain, allow it to dry, then scrape off, and treat as pre- viously described. Stearin and wax-stains are carefully removed as much as possible with a knife. Then place a wet linen rag beneath and blotting-paper on top of the stain and pass a warm flat-iron over it. If the stain is inaccessible with the flat-iron, treat it with chloroform, which will surely remove it. Fruit-stains disappear from linen goods (table- cloths, napkins, handkerchiefs, etc.), by rinsing in can de Javelle or another bleaching-fltiid, or in weak solution of chloride of lime, which must, however, be perfectly clear, and to which some vinegar may be added. When the fabric is clean, it is thoroughly rinsed in running water and best drawn through a solution of sodium hyposulphite, or of soda. White cotton goods may be treated in a similar manner. Fruit-stains frequently disappear by simply washing in soap-water to which some borax or am- monia has been added. Woolen goods are either immersed in a weak so- /O DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. lution of sulphurous acid, or subjected to the action of a solution of hyposulphite of soda for about one hour, and then brought into a solution of tartaric acid, where they remain until the stain has dis- appeared. They are finally washed in water to which some bicarbonate of soda has been added. For colored goods the above-mentioned methods cannot be used, it being first necessary to make an experiment to see whether the colors will stand chlo- rine or sulphurous acid, i. e., whether they are likely to be changed or perhaps entirely destroyed by the action of these agents. If the colors will stand soap, the stains will disappear by washing in tepid soap solution, or in a decoction of soap-root or quillaia bark, otherwise they will have to be covered by dyeing. S fains of red wine, cherries, -whortleberries, etc., in white goods are treated in the same manner as fruit- stains. Stains of wine may be quickly and easily removed from linen by dipping the stained parts into boiling milk, the milk to be kept boiling until the stain dis- appears. Milk and coffee-stains. Apply a mixture of yolk of egg and glycerin, then wash in warm water, and while still moist, iron the fabrics upon the wrong side with a flat-iron which should not be too hot. As a rule, milk- and coffee-stains are difficult to remove, especially from light-colored and finely finished goods. From woolen and mixed fabrics they are taken out by moistening them with a mix- REMOVING STAINS. /I ture of i part glycerin, 9 parts water, and ^ part ammonia. This mixture is applied to the goods by means of a brush and 'allowed to remain for 12 hours, occasionally renewing the moistening. After this the stained pieces are pressed between cloth and then rubbed with a clean rag. Drying, and if possible a little steaming, are generally sufficient to thoroughly remove the stains. Stains on silk garments which are dyed with deli- cate colors, or finely finished, are more difficult to remove. In this case 5 parts of glycerin are mixed with 5 parts of water, and ^{ part of ammonia added. Before using this mixture it should be tried on some part of the garments where it will not be noticed, in order to see if the mixture will change the color. If such is the case, no ammonia should be added. If, on the contrary, no change takes place, or if, after drying, the original color is restored, the above mixture is applied with a soft brush, allowing it to remain on the stains for 6 to 8 hours, and is then rubbed with a clean cloth. The remaining dry substance is then carefully taken off by means of a knife. The damaged places are now brushed over with clean water, pressed between cloths, and dried. If the stain is not then removed, rubbing with dry bread will cause it to disappear. To restore the finish, a thin solution of gum arabic in many cases beer is preferred is brushed on, then dried, and carefully ironed. By the careful manipulation above mentioned stains will be success- fully removed. 72 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. Soup- stains, as well as smaller grease-stains in gen- eral, are removed by washing in hot water to which some soda, or borax, or ammonia has been added. Stains on cotton goods need only be rubbed with rectified oil of turpentine or benzine. The surplus of the solvent is then removed with blotting-paper and the fabric washed in clean soap-water, whereby the stains will be successfully removed. Silk fabrics are treated in the same manner, ether or chloroform being, however, preferred to benzine. Stains of beer, wine, punch, sugar, gelatine, glue, etc. Comparatively speaking, these stains are very readily removed, simple washing in clean, tepid soap- water being in most cases sufficient. It necessary, the fabric may be washed in eau de Javelle or an- other bleaching-fluid, or in perfectly-clear solution of chloride of lime to which some vinegar has been added. It is finally thoroughly rinsed in water, or, still better, in a solution of hyposulphite of soda. Grass-stains are removed from linerr goods by washing in boiling water or by treating with a bleaching-fluid. Another plan is to wash the stained places in clean, cold soft water, without soap, before the garment is otherwise wet. Grass- stains on cotton, woolen, or silk fabrics are removed by moistening them with chloride of tin and immediately washing in a large quantity of water. Stains from green nuts, as well as so-called tannin- stains, are repeatedly washed with water and alcohol, then treated with dilute chlorine-water, pure, per- REMOVING STAINS. 73 fectly clear chloride of lime solution acidulated with vinegar, or one of the various bleaching-fluids, and finally washed in much water. Acid stains, when fresh, disappear by moistening them with ammonia or soda solution, the original color being in almost all cases restored by the sub- sequent application of chloroform. Old stains resist all reagents and have to be re- dyed. Nitric acid stains. These stains are generally of a yellow color, and, when fresh, can be removed from brown or black woolen garments by moistening them for a while with concentrated solution of permanga- nate of potash and rinsing with water. Old stains are brushed over with nitrate of silver solution, whereby they acquire a black color. Stains of wine-vinegar, sour wine, etc., are re- moved by neutralizing the acid with water of am- monia, soda, or a similar agent. Lye- and lime-stains disappear from linen fabrics by washing. From cotton, woolen, and silk goods the stains are removed by carefully applying to them, drop by drop, any acid (with the exception of sul- phuric and tartaric acids), until they have disap- peared, and then thoroughly washing. Hydrochloric acid free from iron is best suited for the purpose. Urine stains are treated with alcohol or dilute cit- ric acid solution and the place where the stain has been is revived with chloroform. Perspiration stains are removed from woolen and cotton goods with sodium hyposulphite solution and 74 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. subsequent washing with water; from silk and satin also with dilute sodium hyposulphite solution, or from silk with strong salt water in which the article is allowed to remain 3 to 4 hours. From worsted and cheviot garments perspiration stains are removed by brushing with benzine and finally by washing with soap and water. If, as is frequently the case, the ground color of colored goods is injured by this process, it has to be remedied by re-dyeing. Perspiration stains are removed from woolen goods with distilled water and a small quantity of castile soap solution by brushing the spot and then rinsing to remove all the soap ; the spot is finally moistened with saccharic acid solution. Subsequent thorough washing is absolutely necessary, as otherwise the lining would be burned by the remaining acid. Silk articles as well as cotton goods are treated in the same manner, chlorine instead of saccharic acid being, however, used for the latter. By reason of the varying constitution of the stuffs no general rule can, however, be laid down and the removal of such stains has to be done by a skilled hand. Perspiration stains may also be removed with a mixture of i part ammonia, 3 parts alcohol and 3 parts ether. From white linen and cotton goods they are removed by rational washing with soap. Uniform facings, cuffs, pocket flaps, etc., of a red or other color, when soiled by perspiration are first chemically cleaned with benzine soap. They are next thoroughly brushed and rinsed in clean benzine. When the benzine has evaporated, they are again REMOVING STAINS. 75 thoroughly brushed with lukewarm water to which ammonia has been added, then rinsed by means of a sponge with lukewarm water and dried with a flannel rag of the same color as the goods. By the appli- cation of the water and ammonia, the dirt imme- diately dissolves so that it can be removed with the finger nail or a dull knife. Greasy shine of mens' worn worsted or cheviot garments is removed be gently rubbing the shiny places with glass or emery paper, and then vigor- ously vaporizing by means of a moist cloth and hot iron, or by steaming. If the color of the goods allows, the places may also be thoroughly brushed with alum solution, dried and ironed while quite damp. Nitrate of silver stains in white goods are re- moved with a fluid consisting of 100 parts by weight of distilled water, 4 parts by weight of ammonia, and 4 parts by weight of chloride of mercury. The same object is more rapidly effected with potassium cyanide solution, but this substance being extremely poisonous, great care is required as well as subse- quent thorough washing. Aniline color stains. Red stains due to aniline color are removed with hot alcohol or with soda solution heated to 122 F., provided the ground color is sufficiently fast not to be attacked by the soda. Ink stains. These may be due to aniline ink and nutgall ink. In the first case the stains provided they are not on silk fabrics will generally yield to washing in soap-water, in a bleaching fluid, or in alcohol acidu- lated with vinegar. 76 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. The removal of stains, due to nut-gall ink, is more difficult. If not too old, stains on linen fabrics some- times yield by laying the latter in a bleaching fluid or chloride of lime solution, allowing them to remain for some time. In applying these substances great care must be taken, especially with bleaching fluid, not to use them .too strong, or they will act upon the fabric and destroy it. The stains also frequently disappear by treating them with a concentrated solution of oxalic, tartaric, or hydrochloric acid. A peculiar method of treating ink stains, as well as iron-mould stains, is as follows : Scatter upon the moistened stain pulverized oxalic acid and rub it into the tissue with a bright piece of iron ; or stretch the stained portion of the fabric over a heated bright tin pot or tin plate, and rub in the powdered oxalic acid. The action is the more effective the more intimately the stain is brought in contact with the heated metal. To produce the best effect it is only necessary to scatter fine tin dust or tin shavings upon the stain previously moistened with hot oxalic acid solution. The stain disappears as if by magic. Another method is as follows : Mix equal parts of cream of tartar and citric acid, powdered fine. This forms the salt of lemons as sold by druggists. Pro- cure a hot dinner-plate, lay the part stained on the plate, and moisten with hot water ; next rub in the above-mentioned powder with the bowl of a spoon until the stain disappears ; then rinse in clean water and dry. REMOVING STAINS. 77 The stain may also be washed in a solution of yellow prussiate of potash to which sulphuric acid has been added, and the blue spot thereby formed removed by rinsing in potash solution. If, after this, a yellow stain should remain, it is removed with sulphuric acid. Beschorner recommends the following process : Place the linen fabric in a mixture of 15 parts dis- tilled water and 2 parts hydrochloric acid, allow it to remain in the mixture for half an hour, then wash thoroughly in clean water, and pour ammonium sul- phide over the still moist stain ; the latter operation should be conducted in the open air. After ten minutes, when the iron has been converted into fer- rous sulphide, rinse the linen in clean water, pour a mixture of I part hydrochloric acid and 15 parts dis- tilled water over it, and again rinse in clean water. Fresh ink-stains on cotton or woolen goods are generally removed by allowing a drop of grease from a burning tallow candle to fall upon the stain, and washing in a concentrated solution of pyrophosphate of soda. The older the stain the more thoroughly it has to be washed. For stains on fabrics dyed with fast colors, chloride of lime or tartaric acid may be used. Old ink-stains are washed in dilute chloride of tin solution, and the fabric thoroughly rinsed in soft water. From silk fabrics ink-stains, as a rule, cannot be removed, the only remedy being to re-dye the stained portions. If the colors of the fabric permit, the stain may be 78 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. moistened with strong vinegar, covered for some time with beechwood ash, and finally washed in strong soap-water. From scarlet woolen fabrics black ink-stains can be readily removed by moistening the stain with cold water by means of a white rag, then applying a few drops of lemon juice, and after the disappearance of the black stain washing with clean cold water. Iron and rust stains may generally be removed in the same manner as ink-stains. They frequently disappear readily and rapidly by placing the fabrics in a bleaching fluid or a clear solution of chloride of lime acidulated with acetic acid, and finally thorough washing in water. The stains also disappear in boijing solution of tartaric acid. Very good results are frequently ob- tained by the use of hot solutions of oxalic, tartaric or citric acid. The removal of iron or rust stains, which at the same time form oil or fat stains, is, however, more difficult. It may most readily be accomplished by washing in a bath of I part soft soap, I part glycerin, and 3 parts water. When stain's are to be removed from dyed fab- rics, a preliminary test should be made to ascertain the behavior of the dye towards the reagent, this be- ing especially necessary with fabrics upon which the coloring matter is not fixed, and which yield the latter by simple treatment with water or soap-water. The following table gives at a glance the best means of cleaning all kinds of fabrics from any stain. REMOVING STAINS. 79 S i ! Jjf I .2 5 jfo FJ I n M El III IBS 1 S'-B "I r 1 alt of " c II Jij s-| .s s^j s l~- .s II '" 1 1 80 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. The preceding table and the receipts previously given, together with the directions which follow, afford a ready means of determing the proper method of procedure. Taking out grease and other spots from clothes is an application of chemistry which has a practical interest for everybody. It demands a certain acquaintance with solvents and reagents, even though the laws of chemical affinity on which their action depends may not be understood. The general principle is the applying to the spot of a substance which has a stronger affinity for the mat- ter composing it than this has for cloth, and which will render it soluble in some liquid so that it can be washed out. At the same time it must be something that will not injure the texture of the fabric or change its color. The following directions apply especially to the garment dyer : Steam has the property of softening fatty matters and thus facilitating their removal by reagents. Sulphuric acid may be employed in certain cases, especially to brighten and raise greens, reds, and yellows, but it must be diluted with at least 100 times its weight of water or more, according to the delicacy of the shades. Hydrochloric acid is used with success for remov- ing spots of ink and iron-mould upon a great num- ber of colors which it does not sensibly affect. Sulphurous acid is only used for bleaching un- dyed goods, straw hats, etc., and for removing fruit- stains upon white woolen and silk fabrics. The REMOVING STAINS. 8 1 fumes of burning sulphur are also employed for this purpose, but the liquid acid (or a solution of the bisulphite not bisulphate or soda or magnesia) is safer. Oxalic acid serves for removing spots of ink and iron, and the residues of mud-spots which do not yield to other cleansing agents. It may also be em- ployed for destroying the stains of fruit and astrin- gent juices, and stains of urine which have long been upon any tissue. Nevertheless it is best confined to undyed goods, as it attacks not only fugitive colors, but also certain of the lighter fast colors. The best method of applying it is to dissolve it in cold or luke- warm water, and to let a little of the solution remain upon the spot before rubbing it with the hands. Citric acid serves to revive and raise certain colors, especially greens and yellows ; it destroys the effect of alkalies or any bluish or crimson spots which ap- pear upon scarlets. In its stead acetic acid may be employed. Ammonia is the most energetic and useful agent employed for cleaning tissues and silk hats, and for quickly neutralizing the effects of acids. In the latter case it is often sufficient to expose the goods to the fumes of this alkali in order to remove such spots entirely. Ammonia gives a violet cast to all shades produced with cochineal, lac, the redwoods, or logwood, and all colors topped with cochineal. It does not deteriorate silks, but at elevated temper- atures it perceptibly attacks woolens. It serves to restore the black upon silks damaged by damp. 6 82 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. Carbonate of soda (soda crystals) serves equally in most of the cases where ammonia is employed. It is good for hats affected by sweat. Soda -and potash only serve for white goods, of linen, hemp, or cotton, because these alkalies attack colors and injure the tenacity and suppleness of woolens and silks. For the same reason white soap only is to be recommended for cleaning white woolen tissues. Mottled soaps serve for cleaning heavy stuffs of woolen or cotton, such as quilts. For such articles as do not require great suppleness.or softness of feel, the action of the soap may be enhanced by the addition of a small quantity of potash. Soft potash soaps may be usefully employed in solution together with gum arabic or other mucilag- inous matters, for cleaning dyed goods and espe- cially self-colored silks. This composition is prefer- able to white or marbled soaps, as it removes the spots better and attacks the colors much less. Ox gall dissolves most fatty bodies without injur- ing either the color or the fibre. It may be used preferably to soap for cleaning woolens ; but not for cleaning stuffs of light and delicate colors which it may spoil by imparting to them a greenish-yellow or even a deep-green tint. It is also mixed with other matters such as turpentine, alcohol, honey, yolk of egg, fuller's earth, etc., and in this state is used for cleaning silk. Yolk of egg possesses nearly the same properties as ox- gall, but is much more expensive. It must be used as quickly as possible, for it loses its efficacy with keeping. It is sometimes mixed with an equal bulk of turpentine. III. WET CLEANING. Water. A very important point in wet cleaning is pure and soft water, and it should be especially free from lime and iron. Soft river water and rain water are most preferable to use, as well as distilled water such as collects in large establishments where steam power is used. Turbid water holding solid substances in suspension must be clarified before use by filtering or settling. In practice impure water may be boiled with bran and the dirty scum formed skimmed off. Hard water containing lime and magnesia salts cannot be used for wet cleaning. These salts have the property of decomposing the soap which is used and forming with the fatty matter of the soap insoluble lime and magnesia soaps, which are precipitated out of the water in the form of curdy masses that settle on the fibres of the fab- rics and often impart to them a spotty appearance. Water to be used for cleaning and bleaching should be free from iron. With the use of water containing iron the fibres can never be suitably cleaned and bleached, even the smallest content of iron imparting to the fabrics a yellowish tone; wool especially turns readily yellow. (83) 84 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. Purification and testing of water. A simple method for testing water as to its softness is as fol- lows: Dissolve a small quantity of good pure soap in alcohol and allow a few drops of the solution to fall into the water to be examined. If the water be- comes milky or turbid, it is hard ; if it remains clear or becomes only slightly turbid, it is soft. If soap chips added to boiling water dissolve completely in it and a clear soap water is formed after cooling, the water may be used without hesitation ; if, however, after cooling the soap a curdy layer forms on the surface, the water is hard. The mere appearance of water is of no value in judging it, since even crystal-clear water may to a high degree be saturated with gypsum. The purity of water also varies with the season of year, the con- tent of lime being greater in summer. For the determination of the presence of gypsum add to the water 2 or 3 drops of hydrochloric acid and 10 drops of barium chloride solution; the for- mation of a precipitate indicates the presence of gypsum. The presence of chlorine combinations is indi- cated if a precipitate is formed on adding to the water 2 to 3 drops of nitric acid and the same quan- tity of nitrate of silver. To test for ammonia add to the boiling water 10 drops of caustic potash solution ; if a piece of red litmus paper held over the boiling water turns blue, the water contains ammonia. Nitric acid in water is detected by evaporating the WET CLEANING. 85 water to be tested to half its quantity and adding a few drops of sulphuric acid and a small quantity of indigo solution. The water contains nitrates if on heating it the blue color disappears. The presence of lime is tested by mixing the water with ammonia until it smells of the latter and then adding a little ammonium oxalate ; if a precipi- tate is formed the water contains lime. To test for iron add to the water a few drops of nut-gall tincture ; if a blue-black precipitate is formed it is due to the presence of ferric oxide. A distinction is made between transient and per- manent hardness. If bicarbonate of lime predomi- nates, which by mere boiling separates as carbonate of lime, transient hardness is indicated. On the other hand, permanent hardness exists if sulphate of lime, which does not separate in boiling, predomi- nates. The degrees of hardness are accurately de- termined by means of a standard soap solution, but the test has to be made by an expert chemist. By simply allowing hard water to stand quietly for some time, precipitates are formed, which become more apparent on boiling. If after standing for a longer time the water deposits a brown skin on the sides of the vessel, it contains iron and is unsuitable. To test the hardness of water mix about a pint of it with tincture of soap of the druggist; the greater the content of lime and magnesia salts is, the more turbid the water will become. By boiling a sample of the water which has been found to be hard by the reaction with tincture of soap over an alcohol lamp, 86 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. it will become turbid and after cooling a precipitate of carbonate of lime and carbonate of magnesia settles on the bottom of the vessel. By decanting the supernatant clear fluid and adding tincture of soap to it, further turbidity indicates the presence of gypsum. Hard water is, as a rule, softened by the addition of soda as follows: After adding the soda to the water, stir thoroughly and allow the whole to stand over night. The next morning take a sample in a clean, clear glass and add a little ammonium oxalate. If the water becomes milky, it has not been suffi- ciently softened and more soda has to be added. For the purification of water in which gypsum predominates use soda and caustic soda, the process being best effected at a boiling heat. Independent of alkali salts, water to be used for cleaning should not contain readily-soluble salts of the metals of the alkalies and of the metals of the alkaline earths. Thus, for instance, magnesium sulphate, magnesium chloride and aluminium sulphate should not be present. The purified water may be tested as to its avail- ability by dipping in it a small piece of red litmus paper; the latter should turn only very slightly blue. When mixed with ammonium oxalate solution, no turbidity should appear. Water containing iron may be purified by exposure to the air, the soluble ferrous iron combinations being oxidized by the oxygen of the air and con- verted into insoluble ferric iron salts. If chemicals WET CLEANING. 87 are to be used, an addition of milk of lime is the cheapest and most effective means. For the purification of water which contains iron and lime, it is advisable to mix it first with lime solu- tion and then with soda solution, and allow the pre- cipitate which is formed to settle, which requires about three hours. The precipitate contains lime and ferric oxide. In all doubtful cases it is, however, advisable to have the water tested by an expert chemist. Wet washing of metis' garments. A properly washed suit of clothes must have a good appearance, be properly smoothed and ironed, must not smell of soap, dirt, or acid, have the proper feel of the ma- terial, its original color unimpaired, as also that of the lining, and show no pale seams and button- holes. The first thing to be done with this kind of washing is to sort it, putting on one side the gar- ments to be wet- washed, and on the other those for which dry-cleaning is preferable. The sorting re- quires great experience to identify goods which would suffer in appearance or color by wet-washing, and not come out like new clothes. Dress clothes, colored waist-coats and most uniforms, must be chemically cleaned. Many other coats and even waistcoats, however, either on account of the way they are made or of the liability of their material to shrink and wrinkle, cannot be washed wet. The first thing to be done with the goods intended for wet-washing is to turn all the pockets, sleeves and trouser-legs inside out. It not unfrequently 88 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. happens that clothes are received for cleaning with things in the pockets, which, when they get wet, will spoil not only the particular garment, but the others washed with it. Dark garments are washed with soda, light ones with soap, except in the case of dark waistcoats, which are soap-washed for the sake of the lighter lining. The articles to be washed with soda are then placed in a lukewarm solution of soda, the dirtiest garments at the bottom. The sleeves and pockets are next turned, but trouser legs are left inside out, and the garments are brushed over on both sides with lukewarm soap water. If dark pocket linings are left hanging out over a light coat, the lining easily stains the material of the coat, especially in the washing machine. The soaping is continued till a permanent lather remains on the clothes. Neglect of this precaution will cause the finished washing to have a greasy and disagreeable feel. After the brushing over with soap, the goods are passed through a lukewarm, weak soda solution, and next through cold water, and are then centrifuged. After centrifuging, most of the soap and dirt will have been removed. The goods are then passed twice or three times through clean water and placed in cold water to be soured. This souring is a very important step in the operation, as it gives a fresh appearance and a good feel to the finished goods, and prevents any trouble with the linings due to the bleeding of dyes. The souring is done with acetic acid, the bath be- WET CLEANING. 89 ing used lukewarm to make it penetrate the fabric more readily and more uniformly. According to the thickness of the cloth, the acid is added for each lot in one, two or three portions. This again is a most important precaution. If with thick heavy fabrics all the acid is put in at once, it often happens that the finished goods still smell of soap and have a hard feel, while the faded parts of them show out more clearly, and the seams look much lighter than the cloth. All this is avoided by adding the acid in portions. Garments with black cotton linings are soured last, as they always bleed a little in the pro- cess. Waistcoats with dark lining may also be placed after washing and rinsing in salt water to pre- vent the black dye from bleeding. After souring the goods are rinsed first in warm, and then in cold, water If any acid is left in the garments they will be un- naturally stiff and have a hard unpleasant feel. Thorough rinsing is especially necessary for light- colored goods in order to insure clearness of the colors, and it is advisable to treat them after souring for 10 minutes in a washing machine with clean, luke- warm water, then pass them once more through water and centrifuge. Cloaks, heavy overcoats for men and servants are washed with soap and are treated differently from suits. Gray uniform cloaks can rarely be cleaned with benzine, as the street dirt often adheres so strongly that only soaping will remove it. Very dirty places should be brushed over with benzine before the gar- 90 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. ment is washed as a whole. The lining requires just as careful treatment as the cloth, especially in places particularly subject to be soiled, i. e. which come into contact with a horse or with boot-tops. Nearly all the articles just referred to are of heavy material from which it is difficult to rinse the soap completely. They are also too large and stiff, for the most part, to be easily wrung. They should therefore be rinsed first in a centrifugal and then passed through warm, and next through cold, water, and then again through the centrifugal, till the water comes clear from the machine. These goods are soured as already described, but in the case of heavy garments two persons are required to see after the wringing. The rinsing is done in three baths, the first two warm, the last cold. If a very soft feel is wanted, the final rinsing before centrifuging must be in soft water. Mens' dark clothes, like light ones, are soaked in soda solution, the darkest underneath and then brushed over with fresh soda solution. To prevent bleeding onto the linings the goods are now slightly soured and rinsed once cold. The souring removes the disagreeable rancid smell often acquired from the body, and which if it occurs on a single article would otherwise infect the whole batch. Many operators prefer washing mens' dark clothes with quillaia bark. Dark one-color articles such as brown, dark blue, dark green, olive and black, as well as all dark mixed goods which do not contain green or other delicate colors, are first soaked in a WET CLEANING. 91 cold weak soda bath. Great care must however be taken that mixed goods containing bright colors, especially green and tobacco-brown, come not in contact with soda or soap. By paying close atten- tion, the workman will soon learn which articles may be soaked aud which cannot be thus treated. Arti- cles the colors of which are liable to run are not soaked at all, but simply moistened. The quillaia bark is scalded with hot water 2 Ibs. of bark to 3 bucketfuls of water. The whole is then allowed to stand to clarify, only the clear, yellow liquid being used. Of this extract add about 2 to 3 quarts to a bucketful of lukewarm water, or enough for the bath to froth well. The efficiency of the bath is increased by the addition of a whiskey glass full of ammonia. For green and green- mixed articles add to the bath a small quantity of acetic acid. For very delicate blue colors a few drops of sulphuric acid may be added to the bath without decreasing its efficiency. In this manner the baths may be so > prepared that even the most sensitive colors are not impaired. After washing and rinsing the goods are passed through water soured with acetic acid. Articles which contain black cotton, as is frequently the case with mixed goods, are brought into salt water, as well as waistcoats. If the colors of the latter goods have already run, draw the articles quickly through a bath slightly soured with sulphuric acid, rinse well, and then place them in salt water. The quillaia bark may be scalded three times in 92 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. succession before it has yielded all its washing sub- stance. Since by washing with soap or quillaia all stains cannot be removed, it is advisable to get rid of them as much as possible by suitable means before wash- ing. An excellent mixture for this purpose consists of i oz. each of acetic ether, ether, chloroform and carbon tetrachloride. Oil-paint stains are either softened with turpentine or fat, or removed with chloroform. Varnish, wagon grease and tar stains are also softened with turpentine ; stearine, paraffine and resin with alcohol. If in men's colored garments spots are found where the color has beea destroyed by urine, moisten them with pure decoction of logwood, allow to dry, moisten once more, and after again drying, dab the spots with copperas solution; when dry^ brush with a sharp brush. If the stains do not disappear by this treatment, moisten them with wine vinegar. Washing ladies' garments. In many establish- ments ladies' garments, no matter whether they are to be washed with soap or quillaia, are first chem- ically washed, but the articles intended for wet wash- ing are not passed through a fresh benzine bath. For dark articles, such as red-brown, brown, green, blue and black garments, which cannot be subjected to soap washing, such treatment is indispensable. However, it can also be highly recommended for light-colored articles, as the dirt dissolves more readily in the subsequent soap-washing. If articles containing oil stains are only washed wet, the stains, WET CLEANING. 93 which can rarely be entirely removed with soda or soap, appear again in a few days and become imme- diately perceptible by the adherence of dust. Colored ladies' garments, for instance, with red, blue, green, brown, etc., are spread upon a table, brushed with dilute alcohol, patted dry with a piece of buckskin, and hung up on two hangers. Light-colored cotton garments should be exam- ined as to whether they will stand wet washing. A trial may be made with a corner or inside seam, or by cutting a small piece from the band, and after washing and drying compare it with the garment. If the color has faded or become duller, it is best to chemically clean the garment. However, generally speaking, cotton articles do not become sufficiently clean by chemical cleaning. Wash-fast garments are placed upon a table, and the dirty places, especially the hem-lining which is frequently soiled with street-dirt, thoroughly brushed with cold soap water. They are then washed suc- cessively in two cold soap baths which should well lather, next rinsed and soured. For cotton garments which will not stand washing with soap, the following process may be used to advantage : Scald a few pounds of wheat bran with boiling water, allow to stand and cool to iooF. ; then stir thoroughly and pass the whole through a hair-sieve. In this slippery milky liquor wash the articles either with the hand or upon the wash-board, finally rinse, centrifuge, and hang up to dry. Fine black and white checkered cotton garments may in 94 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. this manner be successfully cleaned, as well as all articles with delicate colors, the most sensitive colors being in no way injured. The colors do not bleed, since such bran extract does not contain any solvent substances but much gluten, in consequence of which articles thus cleaned do not require further finish. Rapid drying is advisable. A similar method is as follows : Bring quite hot water into a copper kettle and add wheat bran in the proportion of ]fa of the weight of the articles to be cleaned. Let the whole draw for 5 minutes, then boil for 10 minutes, allow to cool, then enter the articles and bring slowly to the boiling point, work- ing the articles constantly. Then allow to cool slowly to 77 F., next wash the articles thoroughly, and rinse twice. Cotton articles thus treated turn out perfectly clean, and the colors retain their orig- inal freshness. The colors of fabrics containing white silk together with black cotton are very apt to run ; this is pre- vented and removed by placing the articles imme- diately after washing and rinsing in salt water for one to two hours, then at once starching, centrifug- ing and quickly drying. Such articles may be washed with soap or quillaia, or wheat bran, accord- ing to the degree of dirt; wheat bran, however, being always the safest agent. Corsets are soaked in a strong soap bath, brushed with ammonia or soda lye, rinsed, passed through a bath slightly soured with hydrochloric acid, again rinsed, and centrifuged. WET CLEANING. 95 Ladies' half-wool and wool garments are as a rule, wash-fast. However, on account of their shape, some of them cannot be wet-washed, but have to be dry-cleaned and freed from stains, while the colors of others will not stand soap-washing, though the shape of the garments might permit it. When it comes to mixed colors, either woven or printed, one of the colors is sure not to be fast. Such pieces should first be chemically cleaned, and then finished in a cold solution of quillaia bark (about I or 2 quarts to a bucket of soft water). They are then rinsed and soured with acetic acid. Dark blue and dark green garments are treated in the same manner, a few drops of acetic acid being, in the latter case, added to the quillaia solution. A preparatory chem- ical treatment will also be necessary for garments suitable for wet-washing, but which contain a num- ber of grease or other fatty stains. After the ben- zine bath, these pieces take wet treatment very well. Wool and half-wool stuffs are best washed upon a table with a wood or slate plate. It is an old rule that soapsuds used on woolens should not be too strong nor too hot. Only hand-warm, and even less, is the proper temperature, and if the suds are light and foamy, the bath will be of sufficient strength. A proper brush is another matter of importance, for nothing is more foolish than to apply a coarse-fibred brush to a delicate costly fabric. Black and white checks in wool and part wool should before being wet-cleaned, be taken through a bath consisting of pure water and a little common 96 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. salt. After being dried they are washed in the usual manner. After rinsing allow them to remain for a short time in a solution of common salt, and then dry quickly in the air. Rinsing plays a most important part in wet- cleaning. Four baths are usually necessary to in- sure a proper rinsing. The first lukewarm, with a slight addition of soda; the second and third plain warm water. After being thoroughly rinsed in these three baths, the garments should for some time re- main immersed in the last cold bath. If white and light-colored pieces have not been sufficiently rinsed and still retain some soap, they will be marked with yellowish streaks after they have dried. To freshen up the colors which generally fade a little under the soap process, a warm water bath should be prepared in a clean wooden vessel and enough pure sulphuric acid slowly added, while con- stantly stirring, to give the bath a faint acid flavor. All but black pieces should be taken through this bath, then rinsed and centrifuged. Black articles require a bath of common salt. If the shape of raw-silk garments permits, they are, after removal of stains, washed quite warm, rinsed and soured hot in hydrochloric acid. With lustre and barege garments great care has to be taken. While they stand wet-washing, they fre- quently become very curly and shrink so that they cannot be again smoothed by ironing. Such gar- ments should not be washed on the wash-board, but simply brushed and treated entirely cold and also cold-starched. WET CLEANING. 97 If garments trimmed with black velvet are wet- washed like white articles, they should, after wash- ing, be only drawn through acetic acid, or not at all soured, and starched. If, however, the fabric requires starching, the velvet, when the garment is dry, should be steamed and treated with a sharp brush. Finally, to restore lustre and softness, rub the velvet with a small rag moistened with olive oil. This, of course, has to be done very carefully so as not to touch the fabric and soil it. Wet-washing white wool and white silk fabrics. Previous to washing white wool and white silk articles, such as cloths, woolen covers, jackets, silk shawls, etc., remove all metallic hooks and buttons. Then soak the articles for half an hour in a luke- warm bath containing about ^ Ib. of soda in solu- tion. Next prepare two baths with soap, which should lather well, and successively wash the goods in them. Washing is effected by squeezing below the surface of the bath the smaller articles such as fichus, etc., and shaking them ; they should never be rubbed between the hands. Larger articles, such as blankets, etc., are washed either upon the wash board or in the washing machine. Good castile soap should be preferably used. The suds should only be lukewarm and never allowed to get too hot or too cold. To the last soap bath some blue is, as a rule, added. For this purpose dissolve in an earthenware vessel 2 to 4 ozs. of indigo carmine and add a few drops of the solution to the bath. After having passed through the last soap bath, the articles 7 98 DRV CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. are wrung out or centrifuged, and brought into the sulphuring chamber. The latter should not be kept too warm as otherwise the articles become too dry and cannot be properly shaped. A suitable bleaching chamber for woolens should have walls and floor of brick- work set in cement, and be ceiled with planks thickly covered outside with felt. Wooden pegs should be used for the ceil- ing instead of iron nails to prevent all chance of rusty water dripping on the goods to be bleached . and staining them. Just below the ceiling lathes cross the chamber, being supported on wall brackets and thickly tinned hooks are screwed into the un- . derside of the lathes for suspending the articles to be bleached. They are so placed that when the goods are hung upon them, the sulphurous acid gets all around each article. Hence the hooks have to be spaced according to the size of the articles, some lathes being reserved for larger and others for smaller ones. From garments to be bleached, brass hooks and eyes and pins have to be removed before bring- ing them into the chamber. When all the goods are hung up sulphur is set fire to in an iron pan and put into the chamber. The air-tight door of the chamber is then closed, and the goods are left overnight. It is usual to burn half an ounce of roll-sulphur for every 10 cubic feet of the capacity of the chamber. The oxygen in 10 cubic feet of air will burn more sulphur than this, but if the quantity given above is much exceeded solid sulphur is apt to be sublimed on to the goods, and its removal is a matter of great difficulty. WET CLEANING. 99 Small pale yellow sulphur stains can be readily removed from the articles while still moist, by gentle rubbing with solution of oxalic acid in water; dark, nearly brown stains can, however, be scarcely re- moved. If, in sulphuring, the articles turn yellow, and the sulphur is not completely consumed, spon- taneous renewal of air is lacking. Another method is as follows : Do not blue after washing but only when the articles have been sul- phured. Then rinse them in lukewarm water and next in a warm bath to which a few drops of indigo carmine solution and cochineal decoction have been added. White woolen blankets with blue or red borders can be sulphured without damage to the colors and then treated like other white articles. A more convenient, though somewhat more ex- pensive, bleaching process is that with potassium permanganate and sulphurous acid. For this pur- pose fill an earthenware vessel with cold water and dissolve in it about I oz. of potassium perman- ganate. Move the articles in the solution for about 10 minutes so that they show a brown appearance; them press them out thoroughly and bring them into another earthenware vessel containing a fresh water bath with about 2 quarts of sulphurous acid. In this bath the articles should remain overnight. The two baths should be well covered to preserve them for further use. The next morning the articles are taken from the sulphurous acid bath, passed rapidly to a bath soured with sulphuric acid and to which a IOO DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. few drops of methyl violet 6 B have been added suf- ficient to give the bath a pale green color. The articles are finally rinsed and contrifuged. Bleaching white wool or silk articles with peroxides. When the articles have been washed in the above- described manner, they are passed for the removal of soap through two lukewarm baths and thoroughly squeezed out. Prepare in an earthenware vessel a cold water bath containing one part hydrogen per- oxide for every 15 parts of water. Place the goods in the bath and allow them to remain in it for one- half to one hour, according to requirement, taking care that every article is below the surface of the bath so as to be thoroughly saturated. Cover the bath. When taking the articles from the bath squeeze them superficially and hang them in a room through which a current of air passes and the tem- perature of which does not exceed 68 F. The bleaching process takes place together with evapor- ation. The saturated articles may also be exposed to the direct rays of the sun, whereby the process is accelerated. Since hydrogen peroxide is for the sake of dur- ability brought into commerce slightly acidulated, the bleaching bath must, before use, be neutralized by the addition of a few drops of ammonia. The baths should be well covered for future use and brought up to the required strength by the addition of fresh hydrogen peroxide. The latter should be kept in well-closed vessels in a cool place. Bleaching white woolen blankets, garments^ etc. WET CLEANING. IOI The articles thoroughly freed from dirt and other impurities by wet washing are centrifuged and then bleached. For this purpose old tubs which are not thoroughly clean should never be used ; even with new tubs it is advisable and this applies to all wood utensils used to bleach them before use with a one- half per cent, hydrogen peroxide solution to with- draw the coloring matter contained in the wood. Water and acids must be free from iron ; even water, otherwise suitable, which has stood for some time in an iron conduit, may contain iron and be thereby rendered unfit for use. Fill a wooden tub with cold, pure, soft water, add for every 10 parts of water one part hydrogen peroxide, as well as a small quantity of ammonia, stir thoroughly, introduce the articles and allow them to remain until they have acquired the desired tone of purity. If after bleaching with hydrogen peroxide the articles are not to be blued, it is advisable to dry them in the sun in order to complete the bleaching process. Bluing, if required, is effected in a fresh, cold, or at the utmost, luke- warm bath with aniline blue or methyl violet. The goods are then immediately centrifuged and dried. It is best, if possible, to dry such articles in the open air in the shade; in drying in the drying chamber, care should be taken to do it slowly at a low tem- perature and with good ventilation. Hydrogen peroxide is an excellent bleaching agent, but its bad keeping properties restrict its use- fulness. As previously mentioned the commercial article is, as a rule, slightly acidulated, such mineral [O2 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. acids as hydrochloric and sulphuric, and one or two strong organic acids, especially acetic, having been found efficient in increasing its durability. Addition of one of these makes even weak solutions of hydrogen peroxide keep fairly well. For many purposes, how- ever, the use of acids with peroxide is objectionable, and several other efficient preservatives have been discovered. The chief of these are benzoic acid, phenacetine and lactophenine. A solution of hy- drogen peroxide of 3 per cent, strength decomposes so spontaneously at the ordinary temperature that it loses half its strength in from one week to a fort- night, according to the weather. When mixed with from one-half to a whole gramme of benzoic acid to the quart, again according to the weather, the per- oxide will still have six-sevenths of its original strength after the lapse of a month. Phenacetine and lactophenine have a still more powerful preserv- ative action. From to -^ of a gramme of them is as effectual as a gramme of benzoic acid. Even with -.jV of a gramme per quart of either phenacetine or lactophenine, half the original strength of the per- oxide often remains after the lapse of a month. Having regard both to efficiency and to economy, phenacetine is the best preservative for hydrogen peroxide, and in no way interferes with its industrial action. As a substitute for the not very constant hydrogen peroxide, sodium peroxide may be recommended as a bleaching agent. Its use for white silk, especially ribbons, is as follows : Rub the silk gently with a WET CLEANING. IO3 medium hard brush and hand-warm soap solution, so that the threads of the tissue are not pushed together. Then rinse thoroughly in water of 86 to 100 F. and bring the silk into the sodium peroxide bath. For the latter use an enameled vessel, copper being unsuitable for the purpose, provided with a second perforated bottom. The vessel should be of suitable size, as the silk must not be pressed together, and should have plenty of room. Dissolve in 10 quarts of cold distilled or condensed water 3^ ozs. of Ep- som salt, add carefully and slowly, stirring constantly, about i oz. sodium peroxide, and finally, also slowly, about i% ozs. sulphuric acid. After adding the sulphuric acid, the bath should be only slightly alka- line. It is best to proceed by adding first sufficient acid to render the bath slightly acid, i. e., that blue litmus paper is just colored red ; then again enough sodium peroxide for the bath to show a slight alka- line reaction, i. e., that red litmus paper is just col- ored blue. When the silk has been placed in the slightly alkaline bath, the latter is in the course of an hour heated to between 176 and 212 F., which is best effected by means of a gas or petroleum flame. Steam can only be recommended when it can be in- directly introduced. Direct firing with coal or wood is not suitable because heating cannot be properly regulated. Allow the silk to remain three to four hours in the bath at 176 F., handling it occasionally and taking care that it is always covered by the bleaching bath. The silk when taken from the bleaching bath is passed through a lukewarm bath 104 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. slightly soured with sulphuric acid, and to which, if required, a trace of a blue coloring matter has been been added. After bluing pass the goods, accord- ing to requirement, through a weaker or stronger gelatine bath, to which some acetic acid has been added, centrifuge, and iron at once. It may happen that the bleaching bath has been somewhat too alka- line. In this case it bleaches more rapidly and better, but the silk loses its lustre. To restore the lustre rinse the goods very thoroughly after the souring, then bring them into a well-lathering c?.s- tile soap bath, boil for 15 minutes, rinse three times in water of 86 to 100 F., brighten with acetic acid, and blue. For silk articles the sodium peroxide bath may be somewhat more concentrated than for woolens. After bleaching, pass the articles through a water- bath, then through a bath consisting of alcohol and a small quantity of glycerin, and dry at a low tem- perature up to 77 F. The use of sodium peroxide is of special advan- tage when sufficient bleaching cannot be effected with sulphurous acid. For bleaching articles which have turned very yellow, the two processes may be combined. For garments with wool, silk and cotton, the fol- lowing composition of a bleaching bath may be recommended: Dissolve for every 100 quarts of cold water, 3 Ibs. Epsom salt, 6 ozs. sulphuric acid, and add, with constant stirring, I Ib. sodium peroxide. Bleaching of jute. For this purpose the following WET CLEANING. 105 method has been recommended : Bring the jute into a sulphuric acid bath of the usual strength, then rinse thoroughly and bleach by means of chloride of lime. For bleaching several chloride baths of differ- ent strengths are used, commencing with the strong- est bath and reducing the degrees of chloride of lime solution from bath to bath until the jute is white. On the other hand, it is asserted that jute yarn does not become white by bleaching with chloride of lime, but at the best only acquires a reddish cream color. For this reason bleaching with potassium permanganate is recommended. The jute fibre is in this case cleaned with soda or waterglass at a temperature of 148 to 158 F. ; it is then passed through a bath of potassium perman- ganate, and the bistre of manganese is finally de- tached by means of sulphurous acid. Jute is very sensitive, and should for the purpose of cleaning, be only treated with gently acting alkaline agents or very weak alkaline lyes. The following method may also be recommended : Soak the jute for 2 hours in a bath containing ^ oz. of waterglass per gallon of water, maintaining the bath at a temperature of 140 F. ; then rinse, and bleach at 86 F. in alkaline sodium chloride solution which contains about I per cent, of chlorine. When taken from the latter bath, rinse thoroughly, sour in a cold hydrochloric acid bath of % to ^ Be., add a small quantity of sulphurous acid, and after half an hour rinse thoroughly. Washing' light-colored, wool and silk articles, IO6 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. Cream-colored, rose-colored, and pale blue articles are carefully washed with soap. The first two colors are carefully brightened by re-dyeing, while the latter color is revived by means of a sulphuric acid bath. Articles with dark colors are washed with quillaia de- coction with the addition of a small quantity of acetic acid, rinsed, and passed through a bath strongly soured with acetic acid. This, of course, applies only to smaller articles. Woolen undergarments are washed in a lukewarm soap bath and rinsed in lukewarm water. When washing in the machine add some ammonia to the soap bath. Rinse in two or three waters and immediately centrifuge. When taken from the cen- trifugal draw them smooth and stretch them gently in every direction before drying. Flannel undershirts, etc., may also be soaked in lukewarm water, then washed in lukewarm soap suds, rinsed, and ironed ; or wash them in milk-warm suds of soft soap, centrifuge, and dry. Flannels thus treated are said to remain soft, and do not shrink. White cloth caps and felt hats are cleaned in the most simple manner by scattering plaster of Paris or potato-flour over them and brushing it off, repeating the operation if required. Or, rub the soiled places by means of a woolen rag with a mixture of alcohol and a little common salt, and dry with a linen cloth. White woolen, knit or woven articles, such as sweaters, etc., are washed in neutral soap solution containing borax, and rinsed in dilute ammonia. WET CLEANING. IO/ White silk handkerchiefs are washed in a luke- warm bath of Castile soap until sufficiently clean ; they are then rinsed in lukewarm water, blued, squeezed out and wrapped in linen cloths in which they remain until sufficiently dry to allow of being ironed. The soap bath should be neutral and lather well; some ammonia may also be added. White silk stockings are washed in a warm soap bath and rinsed in fresh water ; if necessary, they may be sulphured and blued. An excellent plan is to dry them, if possible, upon forms and, while still moist, smooth them with a glass polisher. Colored silk cloths are best washed with decoction of quillaia bark instead of soap. Washing silk gloves. Wash the gloves in a bath of white soap at 122 F. and, if necessary, repeat washing in a fresh soap bath; then rinse carefully, first in warm water, and then in several cold waters. An addition of alcohol is also recommended. After washing, dry the gloves as much as possible by press- ing between linen cloths, apply a dressing of fish- glue solution, iron and brush in the direction of the threads to impart lustre. Colored silk gloves are cleaned with benzine, since by this treatment the colors run least. Cleaning with soap should be done as quickly as possible, to prevent the colors from being too strongly attacked by the soap. Rinse carefully in acidulated waters and remove the water as quickly as possible, by pressing the gloves between cloths. Cleaning fine colored embroideries. Fine silk em- 108 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. broideries and all other kinds which will not stand wet-cleaning, have to be chemically cleaned. Those which can be wet-cleaned are carefully washed in a solution of Castile soap. Coffee and other stains, if present, are carefully removed with eau de Javelle. It should, however, be borne in mind that by the action of chloride of lime a red color may acquire a dull tone and silk embroideries or fine lace-insertions in a cover may also suffer thereby ; hence the greatest care should be exercised. White silk, as is well known, turns yellow by the action of chlorine. Finally rinse in cold water, pass the articles through an acetic acid bath, and dry between linen cloths. A small quantity of turpentine may also be added to the soap bath. To prevent the colors from running, quick work is imperative. Should, in washing col- ored embroideries, the colors bleed very much and stain the white portion, the trouble may possibly be removed by passing the article through lukewarm water to which a little eau de Javelle has been ad-ded. Should, however, the stains not disappear by this treatment, the article should, without being previ- ously rinsed, be bleached by exposure to the air. Afterwards it is rinsed, soured, wrapped in a cloth, centrifuged, and ironed while wet. Eau de Javelle is prepared as follows : Stir 2 Ibs. of dry chloride of lime in an earthenware vessel with water to a thick paste ; dissolve 4 Ibs. of crystallized soda in 20 quarts of water and slowly add this solu- tion, stirring constantly, to the chloride of lime paste. Allow the mixture to settle and use the clear super- WET CLEANING. IOQ natant fluid. It should be well corked and kept in a dark place. Another formula is as follows : To a solution of I Ib. of chloride of lime add I Ib. of ammonia-soda, allow to settle and use the super- natant clear fluid. When colored wool and silk embroideries are to be wet-cleaned, the chief care is that the colors do not run. For this purpose prepare a solution of about i part by weight of Castile soap for every 500 parts by weight of water. The use of a soap too alkaline, as well as an addition of soda, is to be carefully avoided. With this soap solution moisten a suffi- cient quantity of bran so that the entire mass is moist, but not wet enough to drip. Place the bran about y inch deep upon the embroidery spread out on a table, allow it to remain for about 10 minutes, then remove it, and rub any remaining soiled places with dry bran. If necessary, repeat the operation. Should the colors have become dull, they may be revived by moistening a fresh supply of bran with oxalic acid solution y^ oz. of acid in I quart of water and apply as before. After removing the bran the articles should not be dried at too high a temperature, but should be freed from moisture by placing them between cloths. They are finally treated with a soft brush. The washing of small table covers with colored embroidery often causes the cleaner much trouble, especially when the colors have already run. The best way to proceed is as follows : Place the article smoothly upon the table and scrub both sides with 110 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. cold soap suds; rinse quickly, draw through a weak sulphuric acid bath, rinse again, roll up between two clean and dry white linen cloths, and centrifuge. Should the colors of the embroidery be very deli- cate, the hydro- extractor should first be set in motion and the article rolled in the cloths be thrown in while the machine is running. Ladies' silk shawls and scarfs should be treated in the same manner. When the colors have already run previous to wash- ing, handle the articles in hot soap suds without allowing them to stand until the color-stains are extracted. Should this not produce the desired effect add a small quantity of chlorine to the soap suds, rinse, sour, and centrifuge as above ; the colors will be revived by the acid. Should there be ladies' scarfs with variegated colors among the pieces, it is best to place them im- mediately upon leaving the hydro extractor in starch powder or talcum, and brush them when dry. A large German establishment where many dozens of antimacassars, cushion-covers etc., are received and washed every week has adopted the following plan for cleaning colored embroideries on a white or light-colored fabric. These embroideries which are usually executed in silk or mercerized cotton are often received in a very dirty condition and stained with grease, wine, coffee, etc. The goods are first dry-washed to remove grease. The benzine affects very few colors, there being only a few reds which are soluble in that liquid. These are recognized by a preliminary test, and WET CLEANING. Ill goods containing them must be treated by them- selves. When the goods washed with benzine are nearly dry they are sorted into various grades of dirtiness. Two soap baths are then prepared of neutral grain soap, one warm, the other cold, and both lathering well. The goods are first soaked in the cold soap bath, and then spread out on a board without wring- ing, and brushed over with some of the warm soap bath. The goods are then passed through a clean warm soap bath and rinsed three times, twice with warm, and finally with cold, water. A passage through cold weak acetic acid is then given to liven the colors, and the goods are dried. If any bleeding takes place during the brushing, transfer to the clean warm soap bath as quickly as possible, handle briskly in it for a few minutes, rinse thoroughly but with all expedition, and dry imme- diately after the acetic acid bath. If the warm soap bath will not remove the color which has bled on to the ground, a boiling bath must be tried, but it must be very weak and its action should not be unduly prolonged. If this treatment also fails try a very weak bath of chloride of lime, pour in very dilute sulphuric acid, rinse thoroughly, liven, and dry. Much depends upon speed, and if these var- ious processes have to be gone through in succes- sion, the need of the most rapid working is all the more urgent. Bleaching powder must, however, not be used with silk embroideries as it turns them yellow. 112 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. If there are any stains left in the washed goods they will probably be due to the dye or to iron. These are removed by local treatment, the one sort with chloride of lime, the other with oxalic acid. The stain is patted with the solution and the place is carefully freed from it after the stain has gone by repeated applications of clean water. Care must be taken that the solutions are not too strong, and par- ticularly that the bleaching solution contains no un- dissolved particles as they will cause holes. Special care is required in centrifuging the goods before drying. A clean woolen cloth is laid out and the embroidered articles are spread on it and rolled up in it, but in such a way that the colored and white parts of the articles are not in contact. The roll is then centrifuged just as it is. When it has been in the machine ten or twelve minutes, it is un- done, and the embroidered articles are dried. Many dyes bleed the moment they are wetted, others only after a rather long washing with soap. The surest safeguards against bleeding are the use of moderate temperatures and the entrusting of the work to a skilled and dexterous hand who will do the washing with the utmost expedition. In many cases the addition of a little acetic acid or common salt to the soap bath is a great help, especially for goods that are not too dirty. Quillaia decoction with a few drops of turpentine often answers better than soap. If the embroidery has a lining which has been dyed with a dye which is not fast, nothing can be done but to remove the lining and wash it separately. WET CLEANING. 113 It may also be noted that the colors most likely to bleed are olives, certain greens and yellows, and also dark red, violet, Bordeaux, and orange. Washing laces, blonde-laces, embroideries on linen. White imitation (cotton) laces, as well as embroid- eries on linen, are washed in hot soap suds, bleached, and blued as given below under curtain washing. Either pin the lace, while wet, to a cushion, or iron it, care being taken not to get the design out of shape. Laces and curtains should not be rubbed or boiled too long. Real laces and silk blonde-laces with very delicate designs should be chemically cleaned, any remaining stains being removed by local treatment. If such articles have to be wet-washed proceed as follows : Fold the lace carefully and fasten with a few stitches along the edge. Next place it in a little bag made of fine old linen, which should then be sewed up. Place this in a vessel of pure olive oil, and soak for 24 hours. The next day boil one-quarter of an hour in soap suds made by dissolving the soap in soft water. Rinse in cold water without squeezing the lace, until the water remains clear; then pass it through thin, slightly blue starch water ; take out of the bag; press slightly between the fingers, and iron with a hot iron. Since real laces, in order to preserve them, are very rarely washed, they are apt to be rather rotten and very yellow. If they have ever been wrongly treated they are harder to clean than others. By soaking them in olive oil as recommended above, the thread 114 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. which has become rotten and thin from age or from washing is restored to its former elasticity. Another method is as follows : Wind the lace smoothly and tightly about a wide bottle previously covered with old white linen or similar material. Tack each end of the lace with a needle and thread to keep it smooth, and be careful in wrapping not to crumple or fold in any of the scallops or pearlins. After the lace is on th bottle soak it thoroughly to the inmost folds with olive oil by means of a clean sponge. Have ready in a kettle a strong cold lather of soft water and castile soap. Fill the bottle with cold water to prevent its bursting during boiling, cork well, and place it upright in the suds, with a string round the neck secured to the ears or handle of the kettle, to prevent its knocking about and breaking while over the fire. Let it boil in the suds for an hour or more till the lace is clean. Then dry on the bottle in the sun. When dry take the lace from the bottle and wind it around a wide ribbon- spool ; or lay it in long folds ; place it within a sheet of smooth white paper and press it for a few days in a large book. Instead of a bottle a round piece of hard wood about 10 inches long and 4 inches in diameter may be used. The wood with the lace wound about it, and the whole covered with a white linen cloth, is worked in the soap bath between the hands till the lace is clean. A perforated cylinder of white porcelain, Fig. 9, may also be preferably employed in place of a bottle. WET CLEANING. 115 Cover the cylinder with fine muslin, wrap the lace about the cylinder and cover the whole with muslin. Boil in soap suds, rinse in cold water, starch and FIG. 9. dry, the latter being quickly effected in consequence of the many perforations of the cylinder. When dry remove the lace from the cylinder. Washing curtains. White cotton curtains are first soaked and rinsed in three or four cold water baths to get rid of loose dirt. They are then put through two hot soap baths by squeezing them between the hands, avoiding all rubbing. After thorough rinsing, handle the curtains for half an hour in a warm bath, to which sufficient eau de Javelle has been added to make it feel slippery. Next treat the curtains for 10 minutes in a sulphuric acid bath, rinse thoroughly and blue in a fresh bath with ultramarine. Then starch with boiled wheat starch, adding some talcum to the latter to give the curtains the appearance of newness. Stir the talcum into the cold starch, and boil, but only for a short time, as by too long boiling the starch loses its adhesive power. Pass the cur- tains as hot as possible through the diluted starch, squeeze well, and put them in the curtain-stretcher. Il6 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. Cream-colored curtains are treated exactly as above, except that they are not blued, but their dye is renewed if necessary. Dye in lukewarm baths, ac- cording to the tone desired, with a few drops of color- ing matter, for instance, vesuvine G, phosphine, chry- soidine ; the latter two products yielding colors with a reddish tinge, and the former a dull yellow ecru. Beautiful dull tones are also obtained with neutral yellow in a warm bath. Or, color with a little anotto dissolved hot with soda, this yielding the most deli- cate tones. The curtains are starched like white curtains. Cream-colored curtains, which have been dyed with dye-woods or catechu, are recognized after washing by their grey or brownish color. Their original color is restored by passing them through a bath to which a few drops of hydrochloric acid have been added ; subsequent thorough rinsing is absolutely necessary, otherwise the threads would be burnt by the acid. To curtains that have a gray dirty tone, a brighter color may be imparted by passing them through a warm bath containing diamine yellow with the addi- tion of auramine II. The color of curtains may also be revived in a cold-water bath to which a few drops of nitrate of iron have been added. Curtains which will stand washing in the machine should be put in a coarse net unless the attendant knows his business thoroughly, when they may be put in loose. In any case run them a few minutes with cold water or very weak soda. After drawing WET CLEANING. I I 7 off this water, run them in strong soap suds with a little soda, taking care there is plenty of liquor to prevent the curtains from getting torn. Begin cold and warm up, and after about ten to fifteen minutes draw off the lye and replace with fresh. Next boil the curtains. Then rinse, first warm and then cold ; blue in the machine, centrifuge, and finish with wheat or potato starch. Finally dry on a stretching frame. Washing colored curtains. When curtains inter- woven with colored yarn are to be cleaned they should be examined as to whether the colors have already bled on to the white ground. Colored cur- tains should be tested as to the action of soap on them. If the colors are very fugitive, the curtains are washed by hand as quickly as possible in a cold soap bath made with as neutral a soap as can be got. Care must be had to keep different colored articles separate. If the dyes are fast the machine can be used. First rinse the curtains for a few min- utes in cold water, then run them successively in two lukewarm rather cold than warm soap baths, rinse and add to the last rinsing water some acetic acid to liven the colors. The machine should not be stopped during the changes in the liquors, to prevent colored parts lying on white parts and bleeding on to them. Red cotton curtains are brushed cold. If they contain black or dark portions, they are soured hot in the sulphuric acid bath, rinsed and centrifuged. Washing veils. Different treatment is required Il8 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. for white and colored veils. White veils are washed in blood-warm soap water, gently wrung out. rinsed in cold water, blued, starched, beaten half-dry be- tween the hands, and finally hung up to dry thor- oughly. Black and colored veils are cleaned by rinsing in ox-gall and water to remove the dirt ; then in pure water to remove the ox- gall, and finally in a little gum-water to stiffen and crisp them. They are clapped half-dry between the hands, and finally hung up to dry thoroughly. For cleaning and renovating colored, and especially black, veils, some cleaners only use whiskey, which imparts a characteristic lustre to the tissues. They are then stiffened with gum-water, clapped between the hands, and finally ironed between two damp linen cloths. Washing silk and silver laces. Place the laces in curdled milk for 24 ho^urs. Stir a piece of good soap, reduced to shavings, in 2 quarts of soft water, add a proportionate quantity of honey and fresh ox- gall, and beat the whole for some time. If it be- comes too thick, add water so that a thin paste is formed. Allow this to stand for 12 hours and then apply it to the wet laces. Then wrap a moist cloth around a mangle roller, around the cloth the laces, and around the latter another moist cloth. The laces ars then mangled, they being occasionally moistened with water, and several times brushed over with the above-mentioned paste. Next soak gum arabic in water until completely dissolved, add an equal quan- WET CLEANING. 119 tity of sugar, and when this is completely dissolved, and the solution has become clear, immerse the laces in it; then mangle them smooth between two cloths, and hang them up to dry. Washing gold laces. Place them over night in very dilute vinegar or a poor quality of white wine, and then proceed in the same manner as with silver laces. If the laces, etc., are worn so that the white ground shows through, they may be restored as follows: Extract 50 parts by weight of shellac, 2 of dragon's blood, and 2 of turmeric root with strong alcohol, and decant the ruby-red extract. Apply the extract with a camel's-hair brush to the articles to be re- stored, and then pass over them at the height of several inches a hot flat-iron, so that the laces are only exposed to the heat without coming in actual contact with the iron. Cleaning gold and silver galloons. If these have been ripped off and are not too dirty, they may be washed with rectified turpentine. They may also be soaked for some hours in water to which acetic acid has been added and finally brushed with soap solu- tion by means of a soft brush. For cleaning gold embroideries on a dark ground rouge is recom- mended. For gold and silver embroideries on a light ground use very fine whiting or Vienna lime and gently and carefully rub the embroidery with a soft brush dipped into the dry powder, so that nothing drops upon the fabric beneath. An excellent plan for cleaning gold and silver 120 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. galloons, embroideries, fringes, etc., is as follows: Dip a small pad of cotton in pulverized tartar and rub the articles till they are bright, taking care not to soil the fabric beneath. Cleaning parasols. The cleaning of parasols on the frame presents many difficulties, but is apt to be a remunerative branch of the cleaner's business, especially during the spring and summer months. On receiving such articles they should be carefully examined as to their fitness for cleaning, as they are frequently worn in the creases and damaged on top. Such parasols can only be cleaned with benzine; they would not stand wet-washing, as they would immediately split. It is therefore best not to under- take them at all. * White silk and cotton parasols are best cleaned on the frame by washing in cold soap suds and scrub- bing the crease streaks with a soft brush. Next rinse the parasol in warm water, then pour over it a dilute solution of sulphuric or saccharic acid and rinse again in clean water to remove every trace of acid from both the goods and frame. The parasol, while open, is now rubbed off with a piece of chamois, and pieces of white paper are inserted between the metal parts and the goods; it is then whirled a couple of minutes in warm air and then allowed to dry while still raised. White cotton parasols should be treated with warm eau de Javelle instead of sac- charic acid. The handle should, if in any way pos- sible, be kept dry, otherwise the color and lacquer are likely to suffer. WET CLEANING. 121 Colored and checkered parasols ^re cleaned in the same manner, but black checkered covers should not be treated with acid, common salt being substituted to keep the color from running. Embroidered para- sols are also washed in the same manner ; should the colors of the embroidery run, pass the parasol through warm soap suds, rinse immediately, dry quickly with a piece of chamois, and cover the em- broidered parts with plaster of Paris, which will rapidly absorb the remaining water and thus prevent the colors .from running. Finally dry the parasol quickly in the sun or by artificial heat. In wet-cleaning parasols it will be necessary to see whether the joints are lined with leather or col- ored silk ; if this is the case the utmost dispatch in treating the parasols is imperative. Light-colored parasols should be cleaned with soap, dark ones with quillaia and ammonia. Those that are lined, as mentioned above, should be wrapped in a clean cloth, white paper inserted under the ribs, again well rubbed and quickly dried. A weak gelatine dress- ing will also be necessary. ' Parasols with wooden handles must not remain long in the wash-liquor, as otherwise the wood might swell. The parasols should also be frequently turned while drying. Dark parasols are cleaned with benzine, and when the latter has evaporated, brushed with quillaia bark decoction and dried as previously described. Sour- ing with dilute acetic acid is very beneficial to the colors, but a good sponging and dressing with gela- tine solution mixed with alcohol will also answer. Parasols treated in this manner look like new. 122 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. As the parasols are dried while raised, ironing will not be required. Trimmings of ruffles, plaits, or lace, must, however, be ironed. Ornaments, such as beads, or cords, should be removed before cleaning and treated separately. Rust spots are removed with hot saccharic acid or some similar stain-remov- ing agent. Very fine parasols which are only slightly soiled should only be cleaned with benzine, and, when the latter has evaporated, brushed with distilled water and alcohol. Washing carpets. In carpet washing we have to deal with dyes of all sorts, from the fastest in every respect to those which are not fast even to water, and many degrees of fastness may occur in the same carpet. It necessarily follows that no hard and fast rules can be laid down, and that every carpet must be treated on its merits. The first thing to be done, no matter whether the carpet is to be dry-cleaned or wet-washed, is to free it from dust, either by beating by hand or machine. This preliminary must on no account be neglected if the carpet is to look any better after washing or dry- cleaning than it did before. Very dirty carpets, especially those about which there is no doubt as to the fastness of their colors, are wet-washed. If, how- ever, too large so that they cannot be centrifuged, and particularly when they are not too dirty, it is more advantageous to clean them with benzine. Stains of stearine, fat and oil should previously be removed. WET CLEANING. 123 It is advisable to test the fastness of the dyes in the carpets to be wet-washed with a cold neutral soap solution. The best way to do this is to let the solution act for a few minutes on a corner of the carpet. The solution should be strong enough to lather well. After the solution has acted fora suffi- cient length of time, rinse well, moisten with dilute vinegar, and dry by pressure between cloths. The subsequent operations must be regulated according to the appearance now presented by the corner of the carpet. Soak the carpet in one or two lukewarm soda baths, and after taking it out, let it drain off well. Prepare a soap bath sufficient in quantity to treat the whole carpet, as it is not advisable to use first one kind of soap solution and then another. Lay the carpet smooth upon a table and brush it over on both sides with the soap bath, rinse in a soft water bath, repeat the brushing, first the wrong, and then the right, side, draw through a soda bath, and rinse. If the carpet is too large for brushing upon a table, it may be spread out upon the floor of the establish- ment and brushed thoroughly with soap by means of a scrubbing-brush with a long handle. It is then rinsed off, best by hanging it up and directing the spray from a watering ho?e over the soaped surface until the water runs off clear. The front of the carpet is next brushed over with water, to which some acetic acid has been added to liven the colors. When both sides have been washed and rinsed, cen- trifuge the carpet and dry it quickly in a hot air 124 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. chamber. The soap used for washing should be as nearly neutral as possible. In place of soap, quillaia bark decoction with an addition of ammonia may be advantageously used for wet-washing carpets, especially those with printed colored designs. IV. FINISHING CLEANED FABRICS. THE object of finishing is to give the cleaned or dyed articles the required feel, lustre, shape, and a good appearance in general. This operation in- cludes starching, gumming, steaming, ironing, press- ing, stretching, drying, etc. Everything depends on a good finish, so that the greatest attention has to be paid to the operation. No matter how carefully an article may have been cleaned, it presents a poor appearance if the required finish is wanting, while, on the other hand, any defects which could not be removed are more readily overlooked if the article is well finished. The cleaning operations leave the articles more or less wet, and this moisture has to be got rid of by wringing. With small lots this may be done by hand or the familiar wringer, which may be applied to nearly all fabrics, with the exception of velvet, velveteen, plush, and all fabrics having a pile. The main thing in wringing is to fold the articles the right way so that when a wringer is used they are drawn into the machine in the direction of their length. The best means of removing the water from wet ( 125 ) 126 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. textile fabrics is, however, by the use of a centri- fugal or hydro-extractor, of which there are many types, some being made with the driving arrange- ment underneath and are known as under-driven hydro-extractors ; while others have all the working parts at the top of the machine and are known as over- driven hydro-extractors. The principle is, however, the same in all the machines, an inner perforated cage revolving at great speed in which the goods are placed. By the centrifugal action set up on the revolution of the machine the water contained in the articles placed in the inner cage is forced to the cir- cumference of the cage, and finds its way through the perforations of the latter, and is conducted away by the outer-casing. In hydro-extractors practically no pressure is brought upon the goods, the pile of such goods as velvets and plushes is not injured in any way, so that they are in a fit condition for other treatment. The operation with hydro-extractors is very simple ; all that is necessary is .to pack the goods well round the sides of the inner cage, taking care that the latter is properly balanced, that is to say that one side does not contain a heavier weight than the other. Generally, when the goods are removed from the hydro- extractor, they will be found sufficiently dry for all the finishing operations. Finishing white and colored woolen shawls, fichus, etc. Open- meshed crocheted and woven shawls are passed through the hydro-extractor, and while still moist stretched upon a cushion where they are FINISHING CLEANED FABRICS. I2/ allowed to dry, care being taken to get them into good shape. Square shawls may be loosely stretched in a frame. Long shawls and all closely woven fabrics are steamed and partially lightly pressed, but generally cold. Blankets are steamed. Finishing white and colored silk shawls, etc. White and colored articles are finished with dilute starch or pure gelatine. The gelatine liquor must not redden blue litmus paper, since when the blue (ultramarine) is added, the latter by the action of the acid turns grey, and a pure white tone cannot be obtained. All wet-washed silk articles require a dressing ; suitable for this purpose are: Irish moss, gum traga- canth and gelatine; the latter two for white articles. Irish moss is best for black and dark-colored silk. To prevent black garments from becoming hard in dressing, and to give them a soft feel, dress- ing oil is used. The previously dried articles are drawn through one of the above-mentioned dressing solutions, and the dressing preparation is applied by means of a soft brush or a soft sponge. The strength of the dressing depends on whether the article re- quires a hard or soft feel. When dressing silk it may happen that it wrinkles, this being due to the tension of the thread produced by the heat. This is the case with most silk fabrics, even when dressing them only with water. Such wrinkles are removed by pressing with a medium- warm iron between tissue paper. Finishing laces, embroideries, etc. Imitation articles 128 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. of this kind require a dressing of starch, and are either stretched upon a cushion, or carefully ironed when half-dry. Real laces, etc., which have been wet-washed are dressed with a very dilute solution of gum tragacanth or gelatine. Laces with very delicate designs are pinned to a cushion to prevent disarrangement of the design; others are carefully ironed. Plush and similar articles acquire a soft, velvety feel by taking them through a soap bath. Black silk laces, etc., acquire a good lustre by dressing with decoction of fleawort seed, or they are squeezed well between the hands and ironed dry. With laces, cleaning is of secondary consideration, smoothing and glossing them, which is less effected by ironing than by stretching and steaming being of prime importance. A steaming apparatus of copper or zinc may, according to requirement, have the form of a plate or cylinder and should be covered with baize or fine muslin. After steaming the laces, small table covers, crocheted articles, etc., are smoothly pinned to a cushion and dried. Dressing for white embroideries. Treat with fat grain soap solution heated to about 95 F., to which some ammonia has been added ; blue in lukewarm water with methyl violet and a little sulphuric acid. By this means the yellow tone and dull lustre will disappear. Finishing curtains. This has been fully referred to under "Washing Curtains." To prevent as much as possible tulle and curtains from sticking together, FINISHING CLEANED FABRICS. I2g the use of the following starch preparation may be recommended : Stir into 60 quarts of cold water 7 to 8 quarts of clear chloride of lime solution of 7 Be, then introduce, stirring constantly, 22 Ibs. of potato flour and bring the whole to the boiling point. At from 140 to 1 86 F. the result will be such a stiff mass that it can scarcely be stirred. When this con- sistency has been reached, shut off the steam, stir constantly, and in about 5 to 10 minutes the mass will be found to become thinner in consistency. Now introduce steam, and after actual boiling for about 5 minutes, the mass will become thin as water. Continue boiling for at least ^ hour for the volatili- zation of the chlorine gas. Then add one to two quarts of glycerine, and boil again for five minutes, when the dressing can be used without the addition of water. Plush draperies are thoroughly steamed after dry- ing, and the pile is raised by brushing. When the curtains have been starched they are stretched while moist in a curtain-stretcher. Finishing men 's garments. Men's garments, are after drying steamed on a steam- board. The latter consists of a slightly arched hollow copper cylinder, the top of which is perforated with a large number of holes. It should be so constructed that the water formed by condensation separates at the lower end, so that only dry steam passes out through the holes. The construction of such steam boards will be readily understood from the accompanying illustrations. Fig. 10 shows a large steam-board, about 64 inches 9 I3O DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. long. It consists of a front and back part which can be used independent of each other. The shape is FIG. 10. such that pantaloons may be drawn over the front portion. The arrangement for freeing the steam from water is such that it is impossible for moisture FIG. ii. to pass into the goods. After steaming the garments are pressed. The steam-board shown in Fig. 1 1 serves for FIG. 12. steaming the sleeves of men's coats. Fig. 12 is a steam board for pantaloons, and Fig. 13 a steam- board for coats. FINISHING CLEANED FABRICS. 131 Another form in which these steamers are made is that of a table with a rounded top, as shown in Fig. 14. The table is mounted upon a strong wooden FIG. 13. frame, and serves as a substitute for the ironing cush- ion mentioned later on in pressing men's garments. The steam is conveyed into the steamers by pipes, and there are also exit pipes for condensed water FIG. 14. and surplus steam. In order that dry steam may always be available and no moisture appear upon the steamer, the pipe conveying the steam into the steamer should run the entire length of the latter, the holes should lie downward, and the bottom of the 132 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. steamer be so shaped that the centre is the deepest part. By the holes lying downward the water forced along with the steam is prevented from being carried upward by the steam and by the convex shape of the bottom, the water condensed in the steam box is impelled downward. It is also advisable to place a finely perforated cover of copper over the steam- pipe, and to see that the steam produced by the boiler is not too wet. , For pressing men's garments Vollbrecht gives the following directions : Provide a solid cushion about 3 feet long, 16 to 24 inches wide and 6 to 8 inches deep. This cushion should be shaped so that it is rounded off on one side similar to a steam-board and be covered with firm linen free from dressing. For pressing serves a block of iron with a detacha- ble handle, and this should be thoroughly heated without being red-hot. For brushing off the steam use a close, short-bristled brush, like a large clothes brush, and in addition have a strong clean piece of linen free from dressing. Pressing is executed as follows : The portion of the garment to be pressed is laid smoothly upon the cushion. Moisten the clean linen cloth with water, and after squeezing it out, lay it on the article and run the hot iron over it until it appears dry. Then remove the cloth quickly and beat the steamed part with the brush till the steam has disappeared. Finally stretch and brush the article. When pressing a man's coat, press the sleeves first, then the breast or front portions. Next come the FINISHING CLEANED FABRICS. 133 lapels and collar, pressing them sharply under the linen cloth doubled. Finally press the back portions of the skirt. The lining is then pressed without, however, using the damp linen cloth, which finishes the coat. Pantaloons are laid so that the crease comes closely back of the side seam. Press the front side up to the crotch, then place them so that the side seam lies upon the inner seam, press once more but only to near the knee, so that there is a slight crease back which contributes towards a good set. The band, lining, pockets and the upper inner portion to the crotch are then pressed dry, as well as the facing, which finishes the operation. When pressing waistcoats, the two front portions of the fabric and the collar are pressed wet, and the inside portions of the front parts dry, as well as the back, the latter being pressed on the outer right side. Finishing ladies' garments, A good finish of these articles, the correct choice of the dressing medium, and smoothing are of the utmost importance. Chemically cleaned articles give the least trouble ; thinner articles need only be brushed while ironing with gelatine water. All other articles require no further dressing, and by a medium hot flat iron the shape can be readily restored. Starch together with some gelatine is the best dressing for light-colored linen, cotton, half wool and thin wool fabrics. For dark fabrics, glue and Irish moss are used, and for silk, gum tragacanth or gelatine. The dressing should be employed in as 134 URY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. finely divided a state as possible, which is effected by thorough soaking, long boiling and straining. For cotton goods a good brand of wheat starch may be used, which for light-colored and white articles is slightly blued with ultramarine. For dark blue, dark red and black cottons, as well as for wool and half-wool fabrics a mixture of glue and gelatine is employed as dressing. Bad-smelling glue should not be used as the odor cannot be removed from the garments. Thoroughly boiled rice starch is an excellent dressing for men's and ladies' summer garments which have been wet-washed. The. articles are passed through the starch bath at a temperature not above 86 F. Previous centrifuging is absolutely necessary, so that the dressing can be suitably thick- ened or thinned in accordance with the fabrics. When the dressing has been applied the articles are centrifuged, then stretched, dried and ironed upon the wrong side under a wet linen cloth. The work is more easily effected by means of a steam-table. Benzine-washed garments seldom require dressing and, if so, all that is necessary is to brush the lining with a moist sponge, and iron immediately. All starched articles are ironed in an air-dry state, though very hard fabrics may have to be previously sprinkled. Ladies' garments which have been ripped, as well as lighter articles of silk, half- silk, wool, half-wool, or cotton, after having been dressed with a suitable medium, are dried in a drying cylinder or drying FINISHING CLEANED FABRICS. 135 table, the construction of which is readily seen from the illustrations, Fig. 15 showing a drying cylinder and Fig. 16 a drying table. FIG. 15. Fig. 17 shows steam-heated puff irons, manu- factured by Edward C. Grever & Co., Cincinnati, O. FIG. i 6. They are tubular devices of various shapes, as seen in the drawing and which can be heated by steam. By stretching the various articles over them, choos- 136 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. ing that which will best suit the piece in hand, a finish can be easily and quickly given not readily obtainable in other ways. They require very little FIG. 17. iiirr space. The operator need not carry the work around the table. For use, it is only necessary to draw down the iron desired. Dressings for garment dyers and laundrymen. For light woolens which have to retain to the full the characteristic feel of the material, pure gristle glue is the best dressing. Choose the glue as nearly free from color and smell as possible. The glue must be swelled in cold water, and then boiled before use. Add a little borax to preserve it, and also a little acetic acid and glycerine. The object of the acid is to preserve the glue solution, varying with circum- stances. The thinner the wool, the stronger the dressing must be made. The solution is used warm, but not hot. For wool-silk, and all women's gar- ments, the above dressing is about the best that can be had. In finishing half-woolens, glue is used in conjunction with clear-boiled starch and a little acetic FINISHING CLEANED FABRICS. 137 acid. The finish is used cold, or at most lukewarm. If hot, it will strip too much of the dye from the cotton. The garments must be uniformly centri- fuged after dressing, and hung up to dry without any creases. The drying must be at a moderate temperature, or the glue will show. In finishing pure silk use simply a solution of col- orless gelatine, with the usual addition of acetic acid. The dressing is applied warm with a sponge or very soft brush, and the drying is done at a very low heat. For black silk it is a good plan to add a de- coction of curled mint as well as acetic acid to the latter. Half-silk is finished in the same manner. There are many dressings for cotton and linen, but only a few of them are available on fabrics which have been made up into garments. Nothing is better than good wheat starch. A little glue can be added to it for colored cottons, and a little wax improves the subsequent feel. Gloss starch. I. Boil 9 Ibs. pulverized borax, 3 Ibs. stearine and 3 Ibs. white wax in a proportionate quantity of soda lye of 20 Be. to a liquid mass of uniform consistency, and evaporate to dryness. Mix the product thus obtained in the proportion of I : 10 with rice starch. The gloss-starch thus obtained imparts to clothes starched with it a beautiful gloss and the stiffness of a board. 2. Rice starch 100 parts by weight, pulverized borax 5, pulverized boric acid 2.6. Rub all through a hair sieve. 3. Pulverized starch I lb., pulverized borax 3 ozs., common salt ^ oz., white gum arabic 9^ ozs, 138 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 4. Elastic gloss-starch. Mix 100 parts by weight of wheat starch with 0.7 to 0.8 part by weight of stearine. 5. Cream gloss. Lard 7 Ibs., ammonia of 0.88 specific gravity I lb., bleached beeswax ^ lb., glycerine of 1.26 specific gravity ^ lb., and a few drops of oil of citronella. Melt the lard and the wax, stirring constantly until the cooling mass ac- quires a salve-like consistency; then add the glycer- ine, oil of citronella, and ammonia, previously stirred together and mix the whole thoroughly. Of this cream-gloss add a small quantity to the starch. Water-proofing fabrics, i. Boil ^ lb. white Cas- tile soap in 12 quarts of water, and, on the other hand, dissolve 6 ozs. of alum in 12 quarts of water. Heat both solutions separately to about 194 F. Then pass the fabric first through the soap solution, then through the alum solution, and finally dry in the air. 2. For making cloth, woolen, felt, and cotton fab- rics impervious to water the following mixture may also be used : Borax 5 ozs., fish glue 2 Ibs., sago I oz., salep i oz., stearine 5 ozs , and water 10 quarts. 3. Another formula for the same purpose is as fol- lows: Dissolve 5 ozs. of alum in 3 quarts of water of 176 F. On the other hand, dissolve 22^ ozs. of lead acetate in i ^ quarts of water of 158 F. Mix the two solutions, allow to settle, and decant the clear liquor. Place the fabric in the liquor at the ordinary temperature for 24 hours, and then dry. The fabric acquires no odor and retains its softness, FINISHING CLEANED FABRICS. 139 4. According to another process fabrics of all kinds are rendered waterproof as follows : Dissolve i part of alum and I part of lead acetate in hot water, stir, and allow to stand till the fluid is clear, and then add a few drops of isinglass solution. The fabric is moistened and handled in the bath and then dried, if possible stretched in a frame, and pressed. For 50 quarts of water there will be required about i Ib. of alum, I Ib. of lead acetate, and 10 drops of isinglass solution. The bath is used warm. 5. For water-proofing coarse wool stuffs, place the fabric for one hour in a cold 2 to 3 per cent, solu- tion of aluminium sulphate, then centrifuge, and dry at a quite warm temperature. Then pass for 15 to 20 minutes through a cold soap solution (^ oz. soap to i gallon water), centrifuge, and dry hot. If the fabric should show a white efflorescence too much aluminium sulphate has been used, and it has to be washed in cold water. If the fabric is treated twice, the first aluminium sulphate solution may be used without further addition, but the soap solution must be fresh. It is advisable to neutralize the aluminium sulphate solution with a little soda till it shows a remaining turbidity. Such solution of basic aluminium sulphate is almost equal in its effect to aluminium acetate, and does not impart a rancid, acid odor to the fabric. A waterproof finish is also obtained by placing the articles which have been starched with starch to which glue has been added, for a few hours in a 20 per cent, formaldehyde liquor, I4O DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. Fire-proofing fabrics. For fire-proofing light fab- rics the dressings chiefly used are tungstate or phos- phate of soda, or sulphate of ammonia. For coarse fabrics, theatre scenery, etc., alum, borax, water-glass, calcium chloride and magnesium chloride are all used, the salt selected being dissolved and the solu- tion added to the ordinary dressing. The following two formulas have been highly recommended. Nicoll 's fire-proof dressing. Dissolve in soap- water, alum 6 parts, borax 2, tungstate of soda I, and dextrine I. Martin' s fire-proof dressing. Dissolve in 100 parts of water, ammonium sulphate 8 parts, ammonium carbonate 2^ parts, boric acid 3, pure borax 2, starch 2, dextrine ^. The fabric is soaked in the solution at 86 F., then lightly wrung out, and dried. The quantity of starch as well as of dextrine may be changed as desired, according to whether the articles are to be made more or less stiff. V. CLEANING AND DYEING FURS, SKIN RUGS AND MATS. CLEANING. Fur cleaning is an important branch of dry cleaning, and also one of the most risky, for the articles are sometimes of great value and cannot be treated like ordinary textile fabrics. The furs should first be carefully examined in order to ascertain whether they are torn, or whether any matches have gotten into them, the latter being a serious matter where the cleaning is to be done with benzine. As much dust as possible should also be removed by beating over a wire mattress with a carpet beater. A further point to be considered is the color, and it depends entirely upon the dye which has to be used whether the fur can be cleaned with soap and water, or must be treated with ben- zine. The skin part must also be examined with the view of ascertaining whether it will stand washing. Polar bear, tiger, leopard, lion, seal, rabbit, squirrel dog, sheep and goat skins should be chemically cleaned, that is, washed in benzine, unless they are too badly soiled. White skins are best cleaned with benzine and benzine soap, being brushed by hand. They should then be put into the extractor for about ten minutes. After this they should be removed, 142 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. rinsed in fresh, clear benzine, and well shaken. Next place them upon a table and dry by rubbing in potato meal until the hairs are no longer damp and clammy. After allowing some time for the fumes of benzine to evaporate, the furs should be well beaten and the hairs combed out. Should the animal's head be still attached to the rug it cannot of course be washed in the machine, but must be cleaned by hand with a brush. Thorough rinsing is imperative. Aitej the skins have been well evapo- rated, they should be beaten and combed. Skins that have, cotton interlining should be ripped apart before cleaning as the cotton soaks up much benzine and thereby wastes expensive material, and because it likewise harbors dust and often vermin. A thor- ough beating and a good steaming will clean the cotton, which must of course be sewed into the skin after it has been cleaned. Furs and skins that are very dirty must be wet cleaned, and should also be beaten, repaired, and have the lining ripped, the latter to be dry-cleaned, and then sewed on again. For wet-cleaning five baths will be required. The first and second baths consist of a 30 to 40 per cent, solution of soda (warm), the third of lukewarm water, the fourth of cold water, and the fifth is a rinsing bath. The soap used should be of the best quality, the suds being employed warm. The skins are taken up separately, immersed in the first bath, then spread upon the table and washed by hand with the soapsuds. Dur- ing the first washing the soap will be apt to break on FURS, SKIN RUGS AND MATS. 143 the fur from coming in contact with the alum. The soap should be brushed off, the skin taken through bath I, wrung out and washed again until it appears clean and the soap no longer cakes. After this it is taken through the successive baths. After all the skins have been cleaned, they are shaken, then placed for five minutes in a potassium permanganate solution, taken out, and once more shaken, and either taken through weak sulphuric acid, or exposed for about six hours in the sulphur chamber. After the sulphur treatment the skins must be rinsed in luke- warm clean water and alumed in a weak sulphuric acid bath, then once more rinsed in running water, and finally dried. After undergoing all these processes, the skins have lost much of their substance, consequently the following treatment will be necessary to restore them. According to the number of pieces to be treated, a mixture of I part alum and I part common salt and bran will be required. This mixture is to be applied to the skin side of the furs, thoroughly rubbed in, and after being folded over they must be left in a cool place for forty-eight hours. The best way is to wrap the furs in a linen cloth and place them in a wooden vessel. After forty-eight hours they should be taken out and spread out with the fur side exposed to the sun and thus allowed to dry. After they are dry they should be worked over an iron (the so-called half-moon). This treatment will render them soft. Next they must be beaten and perhaps combed curly skins however, must not be combed. 144 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. Where the skin has a head attached wet-cleaning is out of the question, for the water would dissolve the glue. White skins are best cleaned with benzine and talcum. Furs which are to be freed from moths and moth eggs without being cleaned should be ex- posed in the sulphur chamber. Many furs cannot stand wet-cleaning, being in- clined to split and crack and drop their hair. Such skins come from over-fat animals or from such as have died of some disease ; or they have been glued together ; in any case they are difficult to distinguish from perfect ones until handled. It is better to clean such furs and skins cold or to use benzine soap or benzine, and to clean them rapidly. Drying on the half-moon is also not advisable in this case. Neither should such skins be wrung out, but rather dried flat. Another method for treating skins is as follows: To keep the leather from becoming hard or from breaking, rub it well with clarified fish oil. Damp common salt well rubbed in also keeps the leather in good condition. Furs thus treated must be cleaned with cold soap baths and well rinsed. Polar bear and Angora skins which have been bleached with hydrogen or sodium peroxide should be treated in this manner. The bleach should not be exces- sively warm, as too much heat will affect the leather. Skins cleaned with benzine must not be shaken too hard, it being well to allow them to retain a little benzine. They should then be laid, skin-side down, on a table and thoroughly rubbed down with talcum, which will restore to the fur its former freshness. FURS, SKIN RUGS AND MATS. 145 To soften hard and very dirty skins proceed as follows: First of all never wet-clean them, but after ripping off all linings, sponge with benzine, taking care not to rub against the fur. After the worst dirt has been removed the skin should be placed in a long trough, and a sufficient quantity of wheat flour poured over it and worked well into the fur. After an hour or so the skin is taken out, care being had not to shake out too much of the flour ; it is next hung up in the open air and beaten on both sides with a carpet beater. The wrong side is then oiled and the skin allowed to remain in this state for 24 hours. Should it still be hard, draw it over a perching knife ; sift the remaining flour and keep it for another time if it is not too badly soiled. Ladies' and gentlemen's fur collars should be washed in lukewarm suds, to which has been added a little ammonia, rinsed first in lukewarm water, next in cold water, and then finished in the usual way. White furs and boas are best cleaned in the machine with benzine and talcum. Sheepskins, such as rugs, perambulator aprons, etc., are preferably washed with benzine soap, and in at least four cases out of five wet-washing can be entirely avoided. The goods are brushed over with a strong solution of benzine soap, and then run through the washing machine for from 30 to 45 minutes. The subsequent rinsing with benzine should be very thorough, or the wool will retain a greasy feel. If the wool is very dirty and has been much felted 10 146 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. by long wear, the skin must be wet-washed. The first thing is to take out the stuffing. The skins are then soaked in soft water for a time, and then spread out, and the coarser dirt is removed with a weak liquor of soda and ammonia. Then wring and work by hand with a good neutral soap. It is unneces- sary to use brushes, as the fingers can get down to the leather more easily and quickly than a brush. More and more soap is poured over the goods till it remains quite white. As long as there is dirt and grease in the wool, the lather will feel sticky, and have a gray color. Before each addition of fresh soap it is a good plan to rinse with weak soda, whereby considerable saving in soap is effected. The final rinsing, after completion of the washing, is done first with soda and then with clean water. The whole series of operations is carried out on a bench on which the skins can be spread out flat. After rinsing we come, with white skins, to the bleaching. Dyed skins must be soured to liven the color, using sulphuric acid for those which have been acid dyed, and acetic for those dyed with basic dyes. Bleaching may be effected by means of potassium permanganate, sodium peroxide, or sulphurous acid, the latter being on the whole the best. In bleaching with a sulphur chest no rinsing is necessary, as the more soap there is in the wool, the better the fumes of the burning sulphur act, but no dirty soap must be left behind in the wool. For bleaching with potassium permanganate a FURS, SKIN RUGS AND MATS. 147 dark reddish-violet solution is made with the per- manganate and water, and the skin stirred in for 2O to 30 minutes, when it assumes a dirty brown color. It is then removed, drained and immersed in a strong solution of sulphurous acid. If this bath is too weak, the skins will turn yellow all over or in places in the course of the next few weeks. The skins are finally rinsed, first with very dilute sulphuric acid, and then with water to remove all trace of acid, and then dried. With the use of sodium peroxide, all contact with metals except lead must be avoided. For every 100 Ibs. of goods take 140 gallons of cold water soured with 10 Ibs. of sulphuric acid, and slowly stir 7 *^ Ibs. of the peroxide into the acid liquid. A test is then made with litmus paper, and if the bath is not neu- tral it must be made so by adding more peroxide or more acid as the case may be. Four pounds of water glass of 45 Be. are then diluted with a large quantity of water and added to the bath. Now enter the goods and raise the temperature to not exceed- ing 90 F. during one hour. Keep at the same tem- perature for another hour or two, lift, sour in very weak sulphuric acid about I Ib. of acid in 140 gal- lons of water rinse repeatedly in water, give a light soap bath, centrifuge, and dry. As centrifuging does not dry the leather which would become hard in the drying room if placed in it very wet, the skin must be gone over with a special blunt knife to squeeze the water out as much as possible. Work with the knife towards the edge from the middle, and let the edges hang down for 148 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. the water to drip from them. Repeat this once or twice, drying a little in the drying room in the in- tervals. Soap washing of skins should not be done at a temperature above 70 F. Drying is effected at 70 to 75" F. in a drying room, or in the open air. The skins are stretched on a frame under tension. If in spite of all care, the leather stiffens and becomes hard, rub a little oil well into it as soon as it is quite dry. Another and very excellent way of removing most of the moisture left after centrifuging is to stretch the fur, hair down, flat on a table, and clamp it down. It is then covered to a depth of about half an inch with a mixture of equal weights of alum, common salt and meal. This absorbs nearly all the water, and after lying for about six hours can be scraped off. The skin of small articles can be kept soft by working them over a blunt knife-edge a few times during the drying. Very much tendered skins can sometimes be successfully washed and dyed if sewn for the time being on a piece of strong calico. The above-mentioned after-treatment with common salt and alum is quite unnecessary if stearine is well rubbed into the leather before the wet washing, but in this case the dried skins must be chemically washed to remove the stearine. DYEING. White sheepskins have to be dyed in every imaginable color; furs proper are usually dyed grey, brown, blue, or deep black. If a colored fur has to be re-dyed after cleaning, it is well in order to make sure of getting the original color, to FURS, SKIN RUGS AND MATS. 149 cut away a little of the hair which seems to show that color best before cleaning, and dye to it as a pattern. It is a good plan to bleach sheepskins with sul- phur or chlorine to increase their affinity for the dye. With the exception of gray, brown and black, all colors are dyed in a bath containing two-thou- sandths of its own weight of sulphuric acid and an acid dye. The temperature must not exceed 95 F., at which the dyeing lasts from one to two hours. Independently of the coal tar dyes, gray can be dyed by mordanting for from 2 to 4 hours in a bath con- taining from 30 to 70 grains of sulphate of copper per quart, and then dyeing in a fresh bath with log- wood, shading if necessary with fustic or methyline blue. Fine grays can be obtained in every variety of shade in a tannin and iron bath. For browns and blacks it is best to use the various dyes especially intended for furs, such as the Ursols. The latter are not dyestuffs in the ordinary sense of the word, but so-called oxidation colors, i. ., colors which are de- veloped upon the animal fibre by a treatment with oxidizing agents, such as iron chloride, permangan- ates, bichromates, hydrogen peroxide, etc. The Ursols are used as follows : Mordant in a bath con- taining from 30 to 62 grains of bichromate, 15 to 30 grains of tartar, and 5 to 6 grains of sulphate of copper per quart. Then rinse slightly and dye with the proper brand of Ursol, according as a blue or deep black is wanted. Other brands are used for brown, and also pyrogallic acid which gives light I5O DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. shades with a yellowish tinge. A still better mor- dant for black than that given above is made with 23 grains of sulphate of iron, 7^ grains of sulphate of copper and 15 grains of tartar per quart of water. Many furs contain bristles which must be killed. The killing liquid is made by dissolving 2 ozs. of sal ammoniac and ^ oz. of sulphate of alumina in 2 quarts of hot water. The solution is then stirred into a mixture of 4 quarts of water and 7 ozs. of quick lime. It is kept covered up and applied to the hair side with a brush. It must on no account touch the leather. After drying, the dust is beaten out of the fur, and the dyeing is proceeded with. Fur cuffs and other accessories to garments should be treated with the mordant, dye, etc., with a brush and not in the bath. Like all fur dyes, the Ursols are used with hydrogen peroxide, neutralizing the acid mixed with the peroxide with a little soda or ammonia. With blacks care must be taken, how- ever, not to make the bath too alkaline, or the bleach will have a brown shade. For browns, bleaching powder can be used instead of the peroxide. The Ursols have their drawbacks as well as their advantages. They are poisonous, and often seriously affect persons who work with them continuously for long periods. It is obvious that goods dyed with Ursols must be thoroughly rinsed to prevent injury to the wearer of the fur. Badly rinsed dyeings also rub off a great deal. It is a good plan to follow up the rinsing with a bath of sulphate of copper 15 grains per quart for an hour or two. FURS, SKIN RUGS AND MATS. 151 Combing after drying improves the appearance of many furs. Thibets and curly skins must of course not be combed. In some cases the dried skins are revolved with warm sand or sawdust in drums in order to clean away any extraneous dye, etc., which may be clinging superficially to the skins or the hairs. As there is great variation in the size and weight of the skins, as well as in the quantity of hair at- tached to them, it is next to impossible to give definite quantities of dyestuffs, and the following re- ceipts are rather given for general guidance than for exact application. The best general rule to follow is to start with small quantities and add more if re- quired, as shown by the dyeing operation. I. Black on skins, a. Dye in a lukewarm bath containing 2 Ibs. logwood extract for every 8 gallons, and the necessary quantity of turmeric or fustic. After about two hours, lift, add to the bath 6 or 7 ozs. of sulphate of copper per 8 gallons ; re-enter, work another hour, lift, and rinse. Then partly dry the fur in dry, warm sawdust, nail it to a board, hair downwards, give the skin a slight rubbing with glycerine, and leave to dry. Supple the dried skin by stretching and beating. Finally comb the hairs with a clean, oily comb. To prevent any injury to the skin, the temperature should never exceed 85 or 95 F. throughout the operation. b. Make a dye bath with 30 parts of logwood ex- tract, 20 parts of sumach extract, 4 parts of verdigris, and 10 parts of iron liquor. Heat to 100 F., enter 152 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. the skins and keep them in the bath until they have acquired a good shade. c. Ursol D gives 'a deep black. Prepare a mor- danting bath of 10 quarts of water with ^ to I ^ ozs. potassium bichromate and % to ^ oz. tartar. Heat the bath to about 77 F., and lay the fur down in it for 12 hours; then rinse lightly and hydro-ex- tract. Then prepare a dye bath of 10 quarts water at 77 to 90 F. with ^ to I oz. Ursol D, enter the furs, and after dyeing for 2 hours, add 8 ozs. to I Ib. hydrogen peroxide and lay down upon it the goods for about 10 hours longer, turning occasionally. Finally rinse in water. d. A deep blue black especially suitable for angora skins is obtained with Ursol D D. It is dyed with- out any mordant in a bath containing for 10 quarts, y oz. Ursol D D and 17 ozs. hydrogen peroxide. Proceed in the same manner as stated for Ursol D, which may also be employed in a stronger bath. For tipping furs -with black, Ursol D is used. Dis- solve y oz. of Ursol D in I y 2 quarts of water, and add to the solution just before using it, 17 ozs. of hydrogen peroxide. Apply the solution by means of a brush, then put the skins, hair upon hair, let them lie in that con- dition for several hours in a cool place, and then dry them. 2. Brown on skins, a. Very dark brown. Make a bath by dissolving 2 Ibs. of Paraphenyline Diamine in 10 Ibs. of methylated spirit. When solution is complete add I gallon of water. Just before use add FURS, SKIN RUGS AND MATS. 153 to the bath a solution of I Ib. bichromate of potash in 2 gallons of water. Apply the complete solu- tions with a soft brush. In from 15 to 20 minutes the color is fixed and the fur is then rinsed with a damp sponge, and dried. Hydrogen peroxide may be used instead of the bichromate. b. Medium to dark brown. Prepare a bath of 10 quarts water, ^ oz. Ursol D, I oz. Ursol P, I oz. pyrogallic acid, 17 ozs. hyrogen peroxide, and i^ ozs. ammonia. Mordant the skins with ^ to I ^ ozs. potassium bichromate and ^ to I oz. of cream of tartar in 10 quarts of water. Then bring them into the dye bath. Sample after 3 hours for a medium shade, and repeat the sampling from time to time according to the shade desired. A dark brown will be obtained in about 1 8 hours. c. Red brown (light shade}. Prepare a bath of 10 quarts water with ^ oz. Ursol P, 5 ozs. hydrogen peroxide, and oz. ammonia. Place the furs, pre- viously mordanted as under b, in the bath for 6 hours, then lift and dry. 3. Chestnut on skins. Prepare a bath by dissolv- ing 2 Ibs. Amindol in 10 Ibs. methylated spirit. When solution is complete, add a solution of about 13 ozs. of carbonate of potash in I gallon water. Before use add to the bath solution of bichromate in water as given under very dark brown. This applies also to the following : 4. Russet on skins. As given for chestnut, but use only half the quantity of potash and substitute for the Amindol the same amount of Paramidophenol. 154 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 5. Golden on skins. A pale golden-yellow is ob- tained in a bath made with I Ib. of carbonate of potash, 2 Ibs. pyrogallic acid, ^ gallon water, and \y 2 gallons methylated spirit. 6. Silver grey on skins. Prepare the dye bath with 2 parts of Nigrosine and 20 parts of Glauber's salt. 7. Scarlet on Skins. Prepare the dye bath with 2 parts Azo cochineal, 10 parts Glauber's salt and 2 parts sulphuric acid. 8. Orange on skins. Prepare the dye bath with I part Crocein orange, JO parts Glauber's salt and 2 parts sulphuric acid. This gives a full bright shade, 9. Bright green on skins. Make the dye bath with i part Green crystals Y, % part Auramine, and 10 parts Glauber's salt. 10. Maroon on skins. Use for the dye bath I part Magenta, 10 parts Glauber's salt, and a little Nile blue. The skins, etc., when cleaned and dyed have to be dried and for this purpose should be stretched so as to prevent shrinkage which causes them to become hard. While drying they should occasionally be shaken to open out the fibre and prevent matting. When dry the fibre side should be well brushed to separate the fibres as much as possible. It is also advisable for the purpose of softening the skins to rub the flesh side with a little castor- oil or a mixture of castor-oil and yolk of egg. VI. CLEANING AND DYEING FEATHERS. Cleaning. Feathers which have been previously dyed and simply require cleaning, are best washed in a weak lukewarm soap bath, made by dissolving a piece of good Castile soap in warm water, well work- ing and drawing through the fingers or hands; and finally rinsing them in soft warm water. The soap liquor should not be too warm, a hand-heat being quite sufficient. Too hot a liquor might result in taking some of the color off the feathers which would necessitate redyeing. Pale colored feathers should be treated in a very weak and cold soap bath. A little ammonia added to the bath is beneficial. Blacks, browns, and most ordinary dark colors, can often be brightened by an immersion for ten to twenty minutes in a warm decoction of logwood, fol- lowed by rinsing; this will usually be sufficient pre- paration for the dressing and drying processes. Dry cleaning processes are of little use in treating feathers, but the feathers may be chemically purified. For this purpose they should be placed in a somewhat long and narrow china basin containing benzine and raw potato starch, which is insoluble in the liquid, and the feathers moved about rapidly in this bath. This mixture serves to dissolve the fatty and other (155) 156 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. obnoxious materials on the feathers. These im- purities pass into the solvent, and the feathers are afterwards taken out and dried, the starch being re- moved by shaking them out. After having been cleaned as systematically as possible, the feathers should be brushed, and finally dried in the open air, if possible. They must be exposed until all the ben- zine smell has disappeared. The dressing of feathers consists in passing them several times in a liquor of raw (unboiled) potato starch, then pressing them carefully and evenly be- tween two sheets of clean white blotting, or filtering, paper, or linen cloth. The passing of the feathers through the liquor may be repeated as many as eight or more times. The hairs of the feathers are then loosened by means of a soft brush or drawn back- wards between the fingers and thumb for the same purpose, and rubbed carefully in dry potato starch flour. Tapioca or sago starch can also be used with equal success. The starch that may be retained in the hairs can be easily extracted by means of a dry soft brush. The feathers are then dried in the open air or by means of artificial dry heat, after which they are ready to be curled. Natural white feathers are re-whitened by half an hour's careful treatment in a tepid soap bath, after which they must be thoroughly washed in a fresh warm soap bath with a strong lather. They subsequently have to be washed three times in a warm water bath, and then placed for about a quarter of an hour in a weak, clear, and cold oxalate of potash or am- CLEANING AND DYEING FEATHERS. 1$7 monia bath, and afterwards passed through a weak solution of Prussian or Paris blue, in order to neutra- lize the yellow tone produced through the action of the cleaning agents. The feathers are next pressed between blotting paper, and dried in the open air. Raw white feathers must be first thoroughly freed from fatty matters by means of strong soap and alkaline solutions, and this treatment is especially required when the feathers have to be dyed, as otherwise no even color can be obtained. The quills should be separately treated previous to the cleaning process. This treatment consists simply in rubbing them with a solution of bicarbonate of ammonia or oxalate of ammonia. Thorough working in benzine is also good for re- moving grease from new feathers. Sometimes good white feathers or feathers which are to be dyed in pale tints require bleaching. This can be done by burning sulphur or by prepar- ing a bath of hydrogen peroxide, adding a little am- monia to make it alkaline, steeping the feathers in this overnight, and the next day heating up to about 150 F., and allowing to steep for some hours in the warm bath, after which they require only rinsing. If not sufficiently bleached, repeat the treatment. Feathers which are to be dyed black, or dark greens or browns, need only to be scoured simply in a tepid soda bath to remove grease ; then before dying with the decoctions of the dye woods, they are mordanted with a solution of pernitrate of iron. Dyeing. Before proceeding to deal with the dye- 158 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. ing process for feathers, it is necessary to say a few words in regard to the utensils which can be used with safety and with the greatest practical advantage for these operations. A knowledge of the chemical composition of the various articles used by the dyer is most desirable not only by those who supervise the work as a whole, but also by the individual ope- rator. He should be well acquainted with the chemi- cal and mechanical action of the various chemi- cals and materials used on the feathers to be dyed. The color shades got in many instances are of a totally different tint from that which was intended to be produced, and the actual cause is either to be found in the action of chemicals used for mordanting and dyeing and possibly for cleaning the feathers, or in the quality of the water used, or in the injudicious choice of mordanting and dyeing materials, or using one or other of these in too large quantities, to say nothing of adding wrong materials. As feathers be- long to the category of animal products, like wool and silk, they can only be dyed in full shades by the use of a somewhat high temperature, but boiling heat need only be used for dark colors, and it is best to keep the heat as low as possible. When feathers are boiled while in the dye-bath, the ebullition of heat seems, to have a tendency to open the pores of the fibres, and thus allow a free access to the interior of the feather by the mordants or dyes. If desirable, the mordants can be used be- fore or after the actual dyeing operations. It is, in many cases, very advantageous to use the mordant CLEANING AND DYEING FEATilERb. 159 before dyeing as well as concurrently with the dye. The application of too large a quantity of mordant must, on the other hand, be avoided, as in using iron and bichromate mordants such excesses are likely to produce rusty greenish or gray hues. Another very important point demanding attention is the fact that the finer the feather the more dye is required for the production of the desired shades. This is one of the greatest difficulties to be encountered by the dyer, for it is no easy task to decide at once how large a quantity is necessary to produce the desired shade. For light colors a strong and finely glazed china basin of a white color is best adapted for dyeing. Metal utensils can be- used, but the former are best for delicate colors, and a sufficient amount of heat can be produced by means of a water bath. The in- side of the vessel should, however, be as light as possible, and the application and additions of dyes effected with the utmost caution. The color tones can be accurately discerned and regulated in such a white basin. If perfectly enam- elled metal basins are used, the action of the chemi- cals cannot affect the enamel, and the penetration to the metal itself is almost an impossibility. The temperature can be regulated by using a water bath, and can be maintained at 167 to 176 F., which is quite sufficient for pale tints. Boiling heat is, on the other hand, usually required in producing dark colors for shades on feathers, and copper vessels or kettles with a double bottom are best adapted for the purpose. These utensils are sometimes heated l6o DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. through being placed on hot plates, and a continuous heat is thereby maintained during the progress of the operations. Well-enameled vessels of an oblong shape are best to use, as these are especially adapted for placing the feathers in full length without any bending. For all col'ors except black and a few light colors, the acid coal-tar colors should if possible be used. Feathers dyed with these colors, after being once or twice rinsed, are finally drawn through a bath acidu- lated with sulphuric acid and then dried. With ostrich feathers or large fancy feathers, the addition of coloring matter, is best effected by plac- ing the articles in a sieve, or a willow-ware basket, since if they remained in the kettle they would break and tear in consequence of the necessary rapid hand- ling, and besides would spot. The dissolved color- ing matter is added to the dye-bath, stirred, and the sieve or basket containing the feathers is placed in it. For smaller fancy articles, such as chicken feathers and small wings, the addition of the coloring matter is effected as follows : Bring the dissolved coloring- matter into a copper pan which holds I to 3 quarts and is provided with a long handle. Fill the pan with dye-bath or water and quickly plunge it, whilst constantly stirring the feathers, into the kettle, empty- ing it on the bottom. A better, but more trouble- some, method is as follows : Pour one-third or one- half of the dye-bath through a sieve into a kettle, so that the feathers remain behind ; then add the color- ing-matter, stir thoroughly, and return the whole, CLEANING AND DYEING FEATHERS. l6l with constant stirring of the feathers, to the kettle. In this manner a very uniform and rapid distribution of the coloring-matter is effected. The dyeing of fancy feathers differs in several re- spects from that of ostrich feathers. The portions of birds, such as the goose, duck, kingfisher, penguin, pelican, etc., used in the manu- facture of ornamental feathers, require for dark colors a greater affinity for the coloring matters than they naturally possess. This is produced by the addition of sulphate of sodium (Glauber's salt) to the acidu- lated dye-bath, bisulphite of sodium being thereby formed, in consequence of which the fibre is more disintegrated and absorbs the coloring matter more uniformly and to a greater degree. Moreover, the feathers of the above-mentioned birds require greater heat, and may gently boil for ^ or ^ hour. But this cannot be done with articles containing portions of flesh, sinews, or skin, since they would dissolve and the articles fall to pieces. For skins, birds, heads, wings, tails, etc., the heat employed should also not exceed 167 F. In such cases the advantage of greater heat must be compen- sated by the greater strength of the bath. Ostrich feathers are tied together by the lower ends of the quills in bundles of from 3 to 5 and 30 to 40 of such bundles strung together. Dyeing Ostrich Feathers. i. Cleaning, a. Large feathers. The feathers are soaked in a strong solution of Castile soap at II 1 62 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. IOO F., for one hour, or, still better, overnight, and then washed upon a washboard for 10 minutes. They are then brought into a weak soda-bath of the above-mentioned temperature and treated in the same manner. The entire manipulation is then re- peated with fresh baths, when the feathers are thor- oughly rinsed, drawn through a bath acidulated with sulphuric acid, and again rinsed. b. Feathers in bulk. For 10 Ibs. of ostrich feathers prepare a bath of 5 Ibs. of crystallized soda dissolved in 50 quarts of water, and add a small quantity of ammonia. Heat the bath to 100 F., introduce the feathers, and allow them to remain for 4 to 10 hours. Cover the vessel with a lid fitting in it, so that the feathers remain completely submerged. Then wash . the feathers piece by piece upon a washboard, rub- bing them quite strongly. Then treat them in a second bath of 7 Ibs. of crystallized soda and a little ammonia, though they need not remain in this bath as long as in the first. After again washing, the feathers are several times rinsed in cold water and then in warm water, drawn through a lukewarm bath acidu- lated with sulphuric acid, and again rinsed. 2. Decolorizing. The feathers cleansed in the above-described manner are laid flat in a bath of 50 per cent, peroxide of hydrogen, 3 per cent, ammonia, and 47 per cent, water heated to 100 F. The am- monia is added after the bath has acquired the above- indicated temperature. A glass or stoneware vessel should be used for the bath. Work the feathers thoroughly in the bath, let them rest a moment, and CLEANING AND DYEING FEATHERS. 163 work again. Then allow them to rest ^ hour, and work once more. The bath should be protected from the light, and, while resting, the feathers must remain submerged. This is effected by placing a lid fitting in the vessel upon the feathers, and loading it with a stone. When the bath is perceptibly exhausted, i. e., when the bleaching process no longer progresses, the feathers are taken out and the treatment above de- scribed is repeated with a fresh bath. The originally gray or black feathers will finally appear white. They are then taken out, rinsed in several waters, and finally drawn through a bath quite strongly acidulated with sulphuric acid. They are then again rinsed, and have now the ground required for all light colors. If they are to be used white, they are slightly blued. 3. Freeing from grease. After cleansing the feathers according to the directions given under I b, they are brought into a bath which, for 10 Ibs. of black ostrich feathers, is prepared as follows : Pour into a stoneware vessel of 100 quarts capacity 75 quarts of cold water, then add the solution of IO Ibs. of chromate of potassium, and finally 5 Ibs. of pure sulphuric acid of 66. After stirring thoroughly, lay the feathers flat in the bath, turn them over, and cover the vessel. They are then turned over every hour until the natural color is uniformly stripped off and the feathers show a light color. Care must be taken not to allow the feathers to re- main in the bath longer than necessary for the re- 1 64 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. moval of the natural color, and also not to keep the bath too hot. In both cases the feathers are attacked and may very easily become entirely worthless. The heat should not exceed 89 F. The feathers are now rinsed in two cold and several warm baths. The warm rinsing baths being used for the purpose of more rapidly removing the potassium, the feathers are left in them for some time. When the chromate of potassium has been completely removed, the feathers are worked in an oxalic acid bath for % hour and rinsed. They are then worked in a bath of 2 Ibs. of Castile soap, and rinsed in several warm baths. The feathers are now sufficiently prepared for the uniform reception of all medium and dark colors. Gray ostrich feathers require only half the quantity of chromate of potassium and sulphuric acid. 4. White. In case the white of the feathers cleaned, according to directions given under I a, is disfigured by natural brown spots and points, they are brought into a bath of 100 F. to which from 10 to 20 per cent, of peroxide of hydrogen has been added. They are taken out after half an hour or an hour and brought into a bath of 3 per cent, potas- sium bisulphide heated to 110 F., where they re- main for half an hour, when they are taken out and brought into a bath acidulated with sulphuric acid. They are then rinsed and drawn through a cold bath to which a small quantity of aniline-violet, (6 B) dis- solved in alcohol, or Maine-blue has been added. It may be remarked that the more yellowish the white appears, the more of a reddish hue the blue to CLEANING AND DYEING FEATHERS. 165 be used should have, otherwise a greenish tinge is readily produced. 5. Dyeing black, a. For 11 Ibs. of thoroughly washed ostrich feathers, prepare a mordanting bath as follows : Fill a kettle holding about 150 quarts three-quarters full with water, and heat the latter to the boiling-point. Then add n Ibs. of logwood and 7 T 7 -g- Ibs. of fustic, both dye-woods tied in a bag so as to leave room for expansion. Now boil briskly for one hour, then take the bags containing the dye- woods from the kettle, and add 23 ozs. of ground tartar, 17^ ozs. of green vitriol, 14 ozs. of blue vitriol, and 10^ ozs. of chromate of potassium. Stir until all is dissolved and the bath has boiled for a short time. Then reduce the temperature of the bath by the addition of water to 145 F., and place the feathers flat in it. Now, while constantly working and handling the feathers, raise the temperature of the bath to 190 F., then remove the fire entirely and cover the kettle, which is done by placing a smaller lid in the kettle upon the feathers and a larger one upon the edge of the kettle. The latter, to pre- vent cooling as much as possible, is covered with sacks. After once more working the feathers in the evening, they are left in the bath overnight. The next morning the feathers are hung in rows over a rod and allowed to cool one hour. They are then rinsed in several waters until the rinsing water ap- pears clear. Now prepare the following dye-bath : After free- ing the kettle, by washing with clean water, from the 1 66 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. remainder of mordant, fill it three-quarters full with water and bring the latter to the boiling-point. Then bring into the kettle 1 6^ Ibs. of logwood tied in a bag so as to leave room for expansion, and boil briskly for one hour. Then take out the dye-wood, cool the bath to 145 F., and place the feathers flat in it. Heat the bath to 194 F., whilst constantly moving and handling the feathers. Next remove the fire, cover the kettle, and let it stand from 12 to 24 hours over night will do. Then take the feathers out, but do not rinse them. Now repeat the operations of mordanting and dyeing as above described with baths of the same nature ; the dye-bath previously used may, however, be employed as a mordanting bath, the entire mor- dant with the exception of logwood being added. The feathers are then rinsed and one after another washed on a washboard in two weak, lukewarm soda- baths, next in a bath of 5 Ibs. of good, white soap, and then again in two weak, lukewarm soda-baths. The feathers are now chlorinated, the chlorine solution consisting of the clear solution of 4 Ibs. of crystallized soda and 2 Ibs. of chloride of lime. The process of chlorinating requires special atten- tion ; it is best to perform it in the open air where there is plenty of light and an abundance of water. But as these cannot always be had, an example of executing the process in the dye-room itself is here given. Place alongside the rinsing-tub another tub so that as much light as possible falls upon it from above. CLEANING AND DYEING FEATHERS. l6/ Now fill this tub with water of 122 F., so that the feathers can be freely moved in it. Then add about one-quarter of the above-mentioned chlorinating solution, stir well, and introduce the feathers. In consequence of the rapid manipulation, the bath is soon exhausted, and a sample of the feathers is occa- sionally placed in the water-bath standing alongside the tub containing the chlorinating-fluid. As long as the sample held in the water shows a coppery, bronzed black, too much coloring matter is present, and more chlorinating solution has to be added. The feathers are finished when the sample held in the water finally shows a beautiful, deep black. The feathers are then taken out and rinsed in four to six cold water-baths. The more they are rinsed and the longer they remain in the water-baths, the more chlorine is withdrawn and the more beautiful the black appears. b. Blacks can also be dyed by using for 1 1 Ibs. of feathers a bath containing I Ib. Naphthol Black B, 2 ozs. Indian Yellow G, I ^ Ibs. Glauber's salt, and i Ib. sulphuric acid. This yields a fine, full, jet black, very fast. One advantage of using this method over the logwood process is that the feathers are left softer and in a better condition for finishing. 6. Bronze, a. Green. The feathers dyed black ac- cording to the directions given under $a are brought into a bath of 100 F. to which, for every n Ibs. of feathers, a solution of 7 ozs. I a Diamond-Fuchsine in large crystals has been added. After heating the bath to 167 F., manipulate the feathers in it until 1 68 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. they show a beautiful, lustrous green-bronze. Then take them out and rinse. b. Olive. Treat as above with a dye-bath consist- ing of 3^ ozs. of I a Diamond-Fuchsine and 25^ ozs. of extra superfine Aniline Violet 6 B. c. Gold. Treat as above with a dye-bath consist- ing of \Y^ ozs. of I a Diamond-Fuchsine and 5^ ozs. of extra superfine Aniline Violet 6 B. 7. Other colors, including fashionable colors, a. Cream, ivory. Naturally white or thoroughly de- colorized feathers are dyed in a "hand-heat" bath to which a very small quantity of dissolved Pale Yellow has been added. Final shading according to sample is effected with a very small quantity of Orange. It may here be remarked that all the vessels used must be thoroughly cleansed, especially when used for light colors. b. Rose. Dye the pure white feathers yellowish with a very weak solution of Eosin in a neutral bath of 167 F. If the sample is bluish, dye bluish with Eosin. Final shading according to sample may be effected with Pale Yellow. c. Salmon. Dye with solution of Eosin and Pale Yellow in a neutral bath of 167 F. Shade accord- ing to sample with both coloring-matters. d. Maise, bamboo. Dye the white feathers in a bath to which sulphuric acid, Azo-yellow, and a little Orange have been added, heating up to 190 F. For bamboo add a little more orange than for maize. Final shading is effected with the above mentioned dye-stuffs according to sample. CLEANING AND DYEING FEATHERS. 1 69 To all acid dye-baths only so much sulphuric and tartaric acids should be added that a small excess is perceptible to the taste. e. Pale blue. Manipulate for a quarter of a hour the cleansed white feathers in a bath to which a weak solution of extra superfine, water-soluble Pale Blue has been added, heating up to 190 F. Then take out the feathers and add to the dye bath sufficient sulphuric acid diluted with cold water to give it a slightly acid taste. Then replace the feathers, handle them for some time, and, if necessary, add coloring matter until the sample-color has been obtained. f. Butter, bouton d'or, mandarin, coq roche. The feathers decolorized, or eventually freed from grease, are brought into a bath of 145 F. to which some sulphuric acid, Azo-yellow, and a little Orange have been added. Handle thoroughly and effect final shading with the above-mentioned coloring matters. For bouton d'or a little Blue may also be em- ployed ; for mandarin quite- a considerable quantity of Orange ; and for coq roche much Orange and some Ponceau. The bath is heated to 200 F. g. Parme, heliotrope, prune. The feathers are dyed in a bath acidulated with sulphuric acid and heated to 145 F., with Acid Violet R and Acid Violet 6 B. According to whether the sample is clearer or duller, final shading may also be effected with Acid Fuchsine, Fast Red, Ponceau, Orange, and, on the other hand, with Pensee Lake and Indigo- carmine. Heat to 200 F. h, Gold, old gold, White feathers are dyed, ac- 1 70 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. cording to sample, in an acidulated bath at 145 F. with Azo-yellow, Orange, and Pensee Lake ; for the latter, Indigo-carmine may be substituted. j. Gray. For the paler shades, white feathers are taken, and for the darker, feathers freed from fat. They are dyed with Aniline-Gray, extra superfine, and sulphuric acid at 2OO F. Shade according to sample, with very small additions of Fast Brown, Orange, Azo-yellow, etc. k. Coquilicot, cardinal. Dye the feathers, either white or freed from fat, according to sample, with sulphuric acid, some saccharic acid, Ponceau 3 R, and Genuine Red at 200 F. /. Garnet. Treat like the preceding,. but, accord- ing to sample, use for yellow tones red coloring- matters with a yellow tinge such as Orange, Ponceau with Pensee Lake, or Indigo-carmine ; and for blue tone, coloring-matters with a bluish tinge, such as Fast Red, Acid Fuchsine ; also Acid Violet, or Marine-blue. m. Beige, tobacco, Siam, and intervening shades. Feathers freed from fat may be used. Heat and acidity of the bath as usual. Dye with Azo-yellow, Orange, and Pensee lake. For the final shading Fast Brown, as well as Fast Red, Ponceau or Indigo- carmine may be used as required. n. Chartreuse pale yellow-green. Dye white feathers, according to sample, in a bath heated to 200 F. with sulphuric acid, Azo-green, and Acid green. o. Cresson dull yellow-green. Dye in the ordi- CLEANING AND DYEING FEATHERS. I /I nary acidulated bath with Azo-yellow, Acid Green, and Aniline-Gray, extra superfine, as well as event- ually with some Orange. Heat to 200 F. Shade, according to sample, if necessary, with Pensee Lake or Indigo-carmine. p. Olive. Dye with Azo-yellow, Orange, and Acid Green in the acidulated bath at 200 F. Shade, if required, with Pensee Lake, Indigo-carmine, and also Fast Brown. Feathers freed from grease may be used. q. Vesuve, Etna dull, fiery tones. Dye, accord- ing to sample, white feathers, or feathers freed from grease, in the ordinary bath with sulphuric acid, Ponceau, Orange, and eventually Azo-yellow, as well as for bluing, with Pensee Lake, Indigo-carmine, or Acid Violet. Much red and yellow coloring matters give a deep, fiery tone. r. Vieux-rose belongs to the so-called distemper colors. Dye in the ordinary bath, according to sample, with Genuine Red, Ponceau, or Orange, and Pensee Lake. The first and the latter coloring-matters yield bluish tones ; Orange and Pensee Lake more yellow- ish and dull colors. 8. Navy, admiral. Dye with Pensee Lake, In- digo-carmine, and Marine-blue of best quality. Be- sides with these coloring-matters, final shading may also be effected with Acid Violet and Acid Fuchsine. Acidity and heat of the bath as usual. /. Russe. Dye in a bath acidulated with sulphuric acid with Azo-yellow and Acid Green. Shade with 1/2 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. Indigo-carmine or Pensee Lake, eventually also with Marine-blue, and, to give the tone some warmth, also with orange. Heat to 200 F. u. Gray-blue colors. Water-soluble Aniline Pale Blue, with Gray, extra superfine, in a bath acidulated with sulphuric acid. Shade, according to sample, with Acid Violet, Pensee Lake, or Indigo-carmine. Acidity and heat as usual. . v. Green-blue colors. Pale Blue, Acid Green. Shade, according to sample, with Azo-yellow, Indigo- carmine, or Pensee Lake, also orange. Acidity and heat of the bath as usual. w. Maroon, loutre. Dye in the ordinary bath with Orange and Pensee Lake. Shade with Azo-yellow, Fast Brown, and Indigo-carmine as well as Marine- blue. Remarks. From d on, the bath, if not otherwise mentioned, is always acidulated with sulphuric and tartaric acids, so that a slight excess of them can be detected by the taste. The temperature of the bath is at first kept at 145 F., and in dyeing increased to 200 F. Ombre {shaded), tricolor ed. Dye the feathers the palest color of the sample, which is generally on the point. Then, for the reception of the second color of the sample, stretch the feathers in a frame which is effected as follows: Take two strips and place them across the shad- ing-box described below, so that they project about 2 inches on each side. The strips may be either of wood \y^ inches wide and ^ inch thick, or of stout CLEANING AND DYEING FEATHERS. T/3 sheet copper. One of each pair of strips is provided near each end and in the centre with copper screws which accurately fit into holes in the other strip. Cover the strip provided with screws with a rubber strip of the same size, and upon the latter place feathers alongside one another up to the end screws. Now place upon them another rubber strip of the same size as the first, and fit the other copper strip upon the screws. Then screw both strips together by means of strong nuts, so that the intermediate space not occupied by feathers is filled up with rubber. The entire lot being thus stretched in strips, the feathers are taken to the shading-box, which consists of a rectangular copper box about 25^ inches long, I9}4 inches wide, and 3^ inches deep. It is placed in an exactly horizontal position over the fire, or a steam-pipe is introduced. The box is filled about one-quarter full with water, which is acidulated and the required coloring- matter for the second color to be dyed is added. When the dye-bath has acquired the required temperature, place the strips with the feathers across the box, so that the feathers are about three-quarters covered by the dye-bath. Now dye at 200 F., occasionally shaking the strips with feathers, so that the coloring matter may penetrate as uniformly as possible, and the boundary between the two colors be not too sharply defined. When the second color has been dyed according to sample, the strips are unscrewed and the feathers shifted. This is effected by drawing them uniformly 1/4 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. forward, so that, with the shading-box filled to about the same depth, the darkest (third) color can be ap- plied to full one-half the length of the feather. The strips being again screwed together, are replaced upon the shading-box, the latter now containing the darker dye-bath. It may here be remarked that for ombre, as well as horde, indigo preparations, such as Indigo-carmine, Pensee Lake, as well as Acid Indigo, should as much as possible be avoided, they possessing the property of very readily running into the neighboring pale color, and thus giving a bad appearance to the boundary. Hence, for dark colors it is best to use Marine-blue, Violet 6 B, or Gray, Acid Green, Nigrosine, etc. The last color having been dyed, a wide vessel is prepared for rinsing. The bath should be slightly acidulated and the feathers, stretched in the frame, rinsed as far as they project from the latter. The object of this is to remove any loosely adhering dark coloring matter before the feathers are removed from between the strips, otherwise there might be danger of the pale colors of one feather coming in contact with the dark color of another. The feathers are finally taken from between the strips and thrown into an acidulated rinsing bath. When rinsed they are taken out, care being taken that the colors of the same shade lie alongside one another. The feathers are then immediately strung together, swung to and fro, and dried. 9. Borde (bordered feathers). a. Light mirror, CLEANING AND DYEING FEATHERS. 175 dark border. The cleaned naturally white or de- colorized feathers are dyed in accordance with the light mirror of the sample. Three to five of them are then placed one upon the other upon a narrow, four-cornered stick, so that the quills cover one an- other, and the latter are firmly tied in three places to the stick with twine. When the feathers are spread out, their points and side-branches then hang down. Now bring hot water into a suitable shallow dish, or, for larger lots, into the shading-box, acidulate, and add the coloring matter required for the dark border. Then place the sticks, to which the feathers are secured, over the vessel, so that the feathers dip in the dye-bath as far as the border is to extend. After dyeing at 200 F., take the feathers out, rinse in an acidulated water-bath, draw through starch- water, swing to and fro, and dry. b. Dark mirror, light border. Dye the feathers in accordance with the light border of the sample, and dry without starching. Then firmly tie several thick- nesses of paper around the border. The feathers thus protected are then dyed in the ordinary manner in accordance with the dark mirror of the sample. The operation must be performed as rapidly as pos- sible to prevent the protecting cover of the border from soaking through and thus spoiling the latter. Then rinse in a clean water- bath, next in one acidu- lated with sulphuric acid, and, after removing the paper, rinse once more. The feathers are then strung together, drawn through starch-water, passed through the centrifugal, and dried. 1/6 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. Another method of protecting the first color in the second dye-bath is as follows : Take a copper- plate, similar to those used in shading, but some- what shorter and wider, and provided only on each end with a screw, which should, however, be about 4 inches long. Several other copper-plates of the same size as the one above described are required. They are, however, only furnished with holes in which the screws of the first plate accurately fit. Now place the feathers, spread out between two rubber plates of equal size, and the shape of the por- tion of the feather to be protected, upon the first copper-plate, lay upon it another plate, then a feather between rubber-plates, upon this another copper- plate, and so on alternately as many feathers between rubber-plates and copper-plates as the length of the screws will permit. Now screw the whole together with strong nuts, and dye in accordance with the dark mirror of the sample. After dyeing rinse, and in the second rinsing water, which should be acidu- lated, take the feathers from between the plates. The feathers are then strung together, drawn through starch-water, passed through the centrifugal, and dried. It is advisable first to soak the rubber-plates in hot water, so that they become quite soft. The above described method has the advantage that the feathers can be protected wherever desired, and by the use of properly shaped rubber plates any required design may be produced. Another method of producing contrasting colors however, without CLEANING AND DYEING FEATHERS. 177 any special design is as follows : Firmly wrap twine around the feathers so as to leave a few places free, and dye. The places protected by the twine w 11 re- main colorless, or retain the color previously applied, whilst the places left free will show the new color. By now freeing about one-half of the protected por- tion from twine, and partially covering the previously applied color, and again dyeing, four different colors will be obtained. By thus continuing the manipula- tion, and carefully choosing the tones so that the colors alongside one another contrast, feathers show- ing all possible tones may be obtained. Dyeing Fancy Feathers. i. Cleaning. With the exception of ostrich feathers, the term fancy feathers is applied to all kinds of feathers used in the manufacture of orna- mental feathers, hence including those from nearly all kinds of birds. There being considerable differ- ence in the content of fat, various methods of clean- ing have to be employed. The treatment in dyeing also varies somewhat, since the feathers of many birds show a different behavior towards the coloring- matters. Chicken feathers containing no fat need not be washed, at least not for dark colors ; they only re- quire, before dyeing, to be thoroughly moistened in a hot water-bath acidulated with sulphuric acid. However, it is recommended to once or twice wash all feathers which are to show luster, in a bath of Castile soap. 12 178 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. On account of their content of dirt, most fancy feathers require thorough washing, which is effected as follows : For ii Ibs. of feathers prepare a bath of 100 F. to which add 26^ ozs. of good white soap, thor- oughly dissolved. Stir the feathers in this bath for about 10 minutes, and then let them stand, well covered by the bath, for one hour. Then after stir- ring a little more bring them into a sieve. Now prepare a fresh bath of the same temperature, to which 3 Ibs. of Castile soap well dissolved have been added. Handle the feathers well in this bath and then let them stand for one hour, after which they are again thoroughly handled and brought into a sieve. They are then passsed in succession through two baths of 100 F., to each of which has been added I Ib. of soda well dissolved. They are handled 10 minutes in each bath. They are then rinsed in two cold water-baths, next in one acidulated with sulphuric acid, and again rinsed in clean water, when they are ready for dyeing. Skins, heads, wings, etc., must be more rapidly handled, and are not worked in the soda-baths, as the fleshy sinews and skin would be dissolved. They are washed for a short time in a good soap-bath, rinsed in warm water and then in water slightly acidulated. White skins, wings, etc., intended for light colors, are washed in two quite concentrated soap-baths, then in two very warm water-baths, rinsed first in slightly acidulated, and finally in cold, water. 2. Decolorizing. Decoloration is made use of only CLEANING AND DYEING FEATHERS. 179 for wings and bird skins, and for some larger, more valuable varieties of feathers. The process is the same as given for ostrich feathers, which see. 3. Freeing from fat. The process is the same as given for ostrich feathers, but is of greater import- ance here, it frequently being the initial and final operation, after which the articles are ready for the manufacturer. The bath is used according to the various natural designs of the skins, wings, and feathers, the result always being an agreeable tone. The white mixed with the natural design usually suffers somewhat from the chromate of potassium, but is restored by the subsequent saccharic acid bath. 4. White. White fancy feathers are brought into a bath of 100 F. which, for every 10 Ibs. of feathers, contains two Ibs. of dissolved Castile soap. The feathers are thoroughly handled for one-quarter of an hour, and then taken out. They are next brought into a fresh bath of the same temperature, but con- taining 3 Ibs. of Castile soap in solution, where they remain for one hour, being from time to time thor- oughly handled. They are then taken out and, to remove the soap, are worked through two baths of 1 00 F. each containing I Ib. of soda. They are then twice rinsed in cold water. They are next brought into a warm water-bath to which 3 Ibs. of peroxide of hydrogen have been added. In this bath the feathers remain for one hour, when they are taken out and brought into a bath of 122 F., to which I Ib. of potassium bisul- phide has been added. They remain in this bath for ISO DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. one hour, when they are brought into a fresh warm bath acidulated with sulphuric acid. They are then rinsed in a cold bath and next blued, according to sample, in a bath to which best aniline-violet 6B, dissolved in alcohol, has been added. They are then passed through the centrifugal and dried. Pale blue, marine-blue, or a redder number of violet may also be used for bluing. The reddish tinge of the blue depends on the white ; the yellower the latter, the redder the blue must be. The blue must be dissolved in alcohol, since, if dissolved in water, small blue spots are formed in cold bluing. 5. Dyeing black, a. Chicken feathers. Twenty Ibs. of unwashed feathers are brought into a water- bath of about 200 quarts heated to 200 F., and to which 7 ozs. of sulphuric acid previously diluted with cold water have been added. Stir with a crutch or stick until all the feathers are thoroughly moist- ened. Then cover and let stand till the next morning. Mordanting. Fill a kettle which should be free from acid, and have a* capacity of at least 200 quarts, with water and start the fire. When the water boils, add 20 Ibs. of logwood and 16 Ibs. of fustic, each dye-wood securely tied in a bag, so as to leave plenty of room for expansion. Boil briskly for one hour. Then take out the bags and add 2^ Ibs. of best, white tartar, ground, 2 Ibs. of green vitriol, and 23 ozs. each of blue vitriol and potassium chromate. Stir well on the bottom of the kettle until all is dis- solved, then bring the whole to the boiling-point, and finally add sufficient cold water to reduce the temperature of the bath to 145 F. CLEANING AND DYEING FEATHERS. The feathers having an hour previous to this been taken from the wash-bath, and placed in a sieve to drain, are now brought into the kettle and stirred, with constant firing, so they cannot remain for any length of time on the bottom, or on the hot sides of the kettle, otherwise the points might readily scorch. When the mordanting bath has acquired a tem- perature of 185 F., the fire is withdrawn and, after handling the feathers for some time longer, cover the kettle in the manner described under " dyeing ostrich feathers black." The feathers remain in the kettle till the next morning, when they are taken out and placed in a sieve. Then empty the kettle, wash it with water (no acid should be used), refill it with water, and start the fire. The feathers are now rinsed four to six times until the rinsing water ap- pears clear. Then fill a barrel with boiling water and dissolve in it 3^ ozs. of potassium chromate. Bring the feathers into this bath, stir well, and let them stand. Dyeing. Bring 20 Ibs. of logwood into the kettle and boil briskly for one hour. Then remove the bag containing the logwood and reduce the temperature of the bath to 145 F. by the addition of cold water. The feathers having been allowed to drain off in the sieve for half an hour are then brought into the kettle and thoroughly handled, the temperature of the bath being gradually increased to 194 F. The fire is then withdrawn, and after handling the feathers for some time longer, the kettle is covered in the previously described manner and allowed to stand 1 82 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. overnight. The next morning the feathers are brought into a sieve and several times rinsed in cold water, when they are brought into a bath of 100 F. containing 2 Ibs. of soda in solution. They are next placed in a fresh bath of the same temperature, con- taining 10 Ibs. of good white soap in solution. Here they are thoroughly handled for one hour, when they are taken out and passed in succession through two soda-baths of 100 F., each bath containing 2 Ibs. of soda, when they are once more rinsed. Treatment with chlorine. The chlorine solution used for this purpose is of the same composition as that employed in chlorinating ostrich feathers. Add some of the solution to a water-bath of about 400 quarts heated to 1 1 1 F., stir thoroughly and work the feathers in it. After 10 minutes take out a handful of feathers, place them in a clean water-bath and examine them in a good light. If they cannot be well seen in the water, dry five to ten of them. If the black shows a coppery lustre, add a correspond- ing quantity of chlorine solution to the bath, stirring constantly. If at the next examination the black appears clear and deep, take the feathers quickly from the bath, rinse them in three or-four cold water- baths, pass them through the centrifugal, and dry. b. Turkey feathers. Wash the feathers according to directions given under cleaning. They are then in the main treated like chicken feathers, the only differences being as follows : i. Gently boil the mor- danting bath with the feathers for ^ hour. 2. After standing in the mordanting bath overnight, the CLEANING AND DYEING FEATHERS. 1 83 feathers are taken out and spread out in the air for one hour. 3. During this time add to the mordant- ing bath used about one-quarter of the quantity of mordant originally employed. 4. Return the cooled feathers to the mordanting bath, heat to the boiling- point and let stand, well covered, overnight. 5. The next morning take them out, cool them in the air and then rinse. The treatments with chlorine solu- tion and dyeing are the same as for chicken feathers, except gently boiling ^ hour. c. Pigeon feathers. Wash thoroughly according to directions given under cleaning. Then subject the feathers to the same treatment as given under $a, observing the following differences: I. Instead of moistening in a bath acidulated with sulphuric acid, wash thoroughly as above mentioned. 2. For mordanting take y part more fustic and bring the bath with the feathers to the boiling-point. 3. Boil for a short time in the dye-bath. 4. Omit the soap and soda-bath. d. Goose and duck feathers. Wash thoroughly ac- cording to directions given under cleaning. Then treat the feathers in the same manner as given under $a, observing the following differences : I. The mor- danting bath should contain ^ more fustic. 2. Boil in the mordanting and dye-baths for half an hour. 3. Omit the soap and soda-baths. e. Peacock feathers. The treatment is the same as for ostrich feathers, but the feathers must be freed from their natural bronze by treating them according to directions given under "Dyeing ostrich feathers, 3." 1 84 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. /. Parrot feathers. Treat the same as given for turkey feathers, but first remove the natural bronze according to directions given under 3. The tempera- ture of the baths should not exceed 167 F. g. Skins of kingfishers and magpies. Treat the skins in a concentrated bath of good white soap, and then rinse in several warm waters. They are then placed for one hour in a strong chlorine bath of 100 F., prepared according to directions given under "Dyeing ostrich feathers, 5." They are then rinsed twice in cold water and next brought into a strong logwood bath of 100 F., where they remain for two hours. Then, without rinsing, they are placed for half an hour in a bath of medium strong potash solu- tion heated to 100 F. Next rinse thoroughly and return them to the logwood bath for one hour. Then rinse thoroughly, draw them through a good soap- bath, rinse again, and finally treat with chlorine. h. All other kinds of birds' wings, skins, heads and tails. Wash according to directions given under cleaning. Dye as given under 5 ozs. Orange extra, 8 ozs. Glauber's salt and I oz. sulphuric acid, adding a little Acid Magenta to shade. 7. Scarlet on silk. a. Prepare a bath containing 2 ozs. Scarlet R 4, 8 ozs. Glauber's salt and ^ oz. sulphuric acid. Dye in the boiling bath. Various shades of scarlet can be dyed by using the 2 R, 3 R, or oo Scarlets. b. Dissolve 8 ozs saccharic acid, I oz. sulphuric acid and I ^ ozs. Ponceau G. Enter the garments at 145 F. and dye, working them thoroughly, until the bath has acquired a temperature of 200 F. 8. Crimson on silk. Prepare a bath containing 8 ozs. Glauber's salt, I oz. sulphuric acid, and I oz. Azo Carmine, aud dye at the boil. The shade of crimson thus obtained is beautiful, and is fast to washing and light. 9. Cherry red on silk. Prepare a bath with I oz. sulphuric acid, I oz. Acid Magenta, I J^ ozs. Fast Red A, YZ oz. indigo extract, and dye at the boil. For bright scarlets, the brilliant Croceines E. B, 2 B, M, 3 B, 5 B, 7 B, 9 B and Croceine A Z may be used, as well as E. C, Brilliant Scarlet 4 R, and Crystal Scarlet, 6 R. For deeper bluish reds: Rocceline, Azo Rubine A, Azo Red A, Azo Orseille 2 B, Brilliant Cochineal 2 R and 4 R, Bordeaux B L, Lanafuchsine S B, S G. GARMENT DYEING. 223 10. Cream on silk. Add to a soap bath a little Phosphine, or New Phosphine G, raise the tempera- ture to the boil, enter the goods and work for 15 mi- nutes ; then lift, wash, and dry. It takes but little of any of these dye stuffs to produce a cream and care must be exercised in making the addition to the bath, otherwise the shade of cream will come out too dark. 1 1 . Rose color on silk. a. Dye the garments in a neutral bath of 122 F., containing 2^ to 8 drachms of Diamond Fuchsine I a . b. For a deep shade use: 3 ozs. Violamine A 2 R, I Ib. Glauber's salt and 3 ozs. sulphuric acid. This is a strong bluish shade of rose; by using Violamine G a yellowish rose can be dyed. These shades are quite fast to light. 12. Salmon rose on silk. For 10 Ibs. of goods pre- pare a bath with ^ oz. Lanafuchsine S B, ^ oz. Fast Yellow S. I Ib. Glauber's salt and 2 ozs. acetic acid. 13. Carailonsilk. ($lbs.). Pass the articles through a saccharic acid bath, and dye in a neutral bath at from 120 to 167 F., with I oz. each of Eosine (yellowish) and Pale Yellow. 14. Pale blue, del on silk. (5 Ibs.) a. Work the silk in a clean bath, to which 4^ drachms of water- soluble, superfine Aniline Pale Blue have been added, for y hour at 190 F. Then take it out and add to the bath 2^ ozs. of sulphuric acid. Now return the articles to the bath, and after working them for ^ hour, take them out and draw them through a cold water-bath. 224 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. b. Alkaline blue. Dissolve in a bath i)^ ozs. of Alkaline Blue 6 B, and 8 ozs. of borax or 10 ozs. of soda. Enter the garments, etc., at 100 F., and while thoroughly working them, heat the bath to 167 F. Then take them out and prepare a fresh cold bath, to which add 5}^ ozs. of sulphuric acid. In this bath work the silk for ^ hour, take out and rinse. 15. Navy blue on silk. a. For 5 Ibs. of goods pre- pare a bath containing 3^ ozs. sulphuric acid, 8 ozs. alum, ^y 2 ozs. indigo-carmine, and 8^ drachms Marine-blue I a . Dye the garments, etc., in this bath at 190 F.,.take them out and add to the bath 35^ ozs. Pensee Lake and 8^ drachms Marine Blue. Dye, heating up to the boiling point, until the color- ing matter has been uniformly absorbed. For a navy-blue with a less reddish tinge (admiral- blue) use less Aniline Marine-blue and more indigo- carmine. b. Make a bath containing 9 ozs. Cotton Blue R, cone., 9 ozs. Nigrosine No. I, 2 Ibs. Glauber's salt, and 5 ozs. sulphuric acid. For pale blue and blue the following dyestuffs are useful : Cyanole extra F F, 2 B, the various brands of Soluble Blues, and further the Alkaline Blues. For peacock, navy and dark blues the same dyestuffs may be used if shaded or darkened with Cyanole Green, Acid Green, Naphthol Blue Black, Naphthol Black, Naphtholamine Black 4 B, according to require- ments. 1 6. Heliotrope on silk (5 Ibs.). Dye in a bath of 2^/2 ozs. sulphuric acid, 5^ drachms Acid Violet GARMENT DYEING. 225 6 B, and 8^ drachms Acid Violet R up to 16; F. According to whether the heliotrope is to be bluish or reddish, use a larger quantity of the first or the latter coloring matter. If a dull shade is desired, add Orange or Azo-yellow. 17. Prune on silk. For 5 Ibs. of goods use a bath containing 3^ ozs. sulphuric acid, 8^ drachms Genuine Red, and i^ ozs. Acid Violet 6 B. Dye according to directions given under 16, and shade according to sample; for duller tones with Orange, for clear tones with Acid Fuchsine and Acid Violet. 1 8. Silver gray on silk. a. For 5 Ibs. of goods dissolve in the bath i^ ozs. sulphuric acid, i^ drachms Acid Violet R, and 8}^ drachms Aniline Gray superfine extra. Dye at from 167 to 195 F. b. Prepare a dye bath with ^ oz. Naphthol Black B, or y 2 oz. Acid Black S, 8 ozs. Glauber's salt and I oz. sulphuric acid. Work at the boil to shade. 19. Gray on silk. a. For 5 Ibs. of goods prepare a bath containing 2^ ozs. sulphuric acid and i^ ozs. Aniline Gray extra fine. Dye at 195 F. and eventually shade with a little Orange or Fast Brown. b. Move the articles for 10 minutes in a cold bath which contains as a mordant I oz. nitrate of iron and 2^/2 drachms of tin-salt. Rinse thoroughly and dye in a bath of 167 F., to which a decoction of 8 ozs. of logwood has been added. 20. Wood gray on silk. Steep the goods for half an hour in a lukewarm bath of alum at i to 2 Be., then lift them and add 3 ozs. copperas to the bath. 15 226 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. Re-enter the goods and turn them over for 15 minutes, lift, rinse and dye in a bath made from 4 ozs. logwood extract and 2 ozs. sapan wood extract, working at about 140 F. to shade. For grays the various brands of Induline, Nigro- sine and Aniline Gray may be used, which may be shaded as desired with Orange, Indian Yellow or Lanafuchsine. 21. Vesuve, dull fiery tones on silk. For 5 Ibs. of goods prepare the bath with 3^ ozs. sulphuric acid and solutions of 1^ ozs. Orange No. 2 (medium), -5 ozs. Ponceau 3 R, and 14 drachms each of indigo- carmine (or Pensee Lake) and Azo-yellow. Dye up nearly to boiling. For Orange and Ponceau 3 R, Ponceau G, or Brilliant Ponceau may be substituted. 22. Bright green on silk. For 5 Ibs. of goods pre- pare a bath containing Azo-yellow I ^ ozs., Acid Green 14 drachms, sulphuric acid 2% ozs. Dye until the green has been uniformly absorbed, and finally boil gently for a short time. 23. Pea-green on silk. For 5 Ibs. of goods pre- pare a bath with ^ Ib. Fast Yellow S, i^ ozs. Cyanole extra, ^ Ib. Glauber's salt and 2 ozs. acetic acid. Work at the boil. 24. Green on silk. For 5 Ibs. of goods. Mor- dant the garments in the solution of 2 Ibs. alum for 24 hours. Then rinse and dye at a hand-heat in the dyer's weed-bath. When the garments show a full yellow color take them out and add to the bath 8 ozs. indigo-carmine. Return the garments to the bath and work them till the bath boils ; then take them out and dry. GARMENT DYEING. 227 25. Dull yellow- green on silk. For 5 Ibs. of goods prepare a bath with sulphuric acid 3^ ozs., Acid Green i^ ozs., Azo-yellow I ^ ozs., Orange G 6^ drachms, Aniline Gray, extra superfine, I ^ ozs. Dye the goods in the bath till they appear uniformly colored ; finally boil gently for a short time. 26. Moss green on silk. Make the dye bath for 5 Ibs. of goods by dissolving 25^ ozs. sulphuric acid, I y^ ozs. Acid Green, i oz. Azo-yellow, and 8 drachms Orange G. Dye up to boiling. 27. Olive on silk. Prepare the dye bath with 3 ozs. Acid Green, cone., 3 ozs. Nigrosine II, I Ib. Glau- ber's salt and 4 ozs. sulphuric acid. Very bright greens can be produced with Acid Green, extra cone. B and 5 G. For dark greens, very useful dyestuffs besides the Acid Greens are: Fast Acid Green B, B N, Cyanole Green B, 6 G S, shaded with Solid Blue R, or Naphthol Blue-black and Indian Yellow G, or Acid Yellow A T. Olive shades are produced in a similar way and shaded with Orange extract or some red dyestuffs. 28. Cinnamon-brown on silk. For 5 Ibs. of goods : Sulphuric acid 2^ ozs. Azo-yellow I oz.. Fast Brown 5^ drachms, indigo-carmine 6^ drachms. Dye up to the boiling point. 29. Yellow on silk a. For 5 Ibs. of goods : Sul- phuric acid 2^ ozs. Azo-yellow 14 drachms. Dye to 200 F. b. Make a bath with I ^ ozs. oxyphenine and 4 ozs. phosphate of soda. Work the garments in this bath at the boil to shade ; then lift, wash and dry. 228 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 30. Greenish yellow on silk. Prepare a dye bath with 2 ozs. thioflavine T, I oz. acetic acid, and suf- ficient soap. Work the garments in the bath at the boil to shade, then pass them through a weak acetic acid bath to brighten the shade, rinse and dry. 31. Orange on silk. a. Make a bath with I oz. Tartrazine, ^ oz. sulphuric acid and 4 ozs. Glauber's salt. Work at the boil. b. Prepare a bath with i oz Orange X, ^ oz. sulphuric acid, and 4 ozs. Glauber's salt, working at the boil to shade. Very pure yellows may be obtained with Naphthol Yellow S, or Acid Yellow A T, and richer but redder shades with Indian-yellow G R, Tropaeoline G and O O. or pure orange shades the Orange extra R and G G brands, and also Croceine Orange E N may be employed. 32. Mauve on silk. Dye in a bath which contains ytt oz. Violet 4 B, ^ oz. Magenta, and 2 ozs. Glauber's salt. Work at about 180 F. to shade, then take out, rinse and dry. By using different brands of the Violet a variety of shades of mauve from a blue to a red may be dyed. 33. Fancy colors and all other intermediate tones. As fancy colors, may be designated all tones which deviate from the regular ones. They are produced as follows : As ground colors in dyeing, red, yellow, and blue are used, they being the so-called comple- mentary colors of which all other tones consist. Now according to the preponderance of one of these ground-tones in the desired color, the articles are first dyed with it and shaded with the others. GARMENT DYEING. 22Q As materials for the ground-tones may be recom- mended, for yellow; Azo-yellow, Martin's yellow, turmeric; for red: Fast red, Ponceau, Fast Brown, and also Acid Fuchsine ; for yellow and red together : Orange; for/z^: Indigo-carmine, Pensee Lake, or Aniline blue, Marine-blue ; for blue and red together : Aniline-Acid Violet. For the aniline colors the bath is acidulated with sulphuric acid, and for the other coloring-matters with it and alum. Genuine velvet is dyed in the same dye-baths used for silk garments, but greater care is required in the treatment. Baste around the separate pieces a strip of stuff two fingers wide, by which the velvet is worked during the entire operation. When entering the articles in the bath, place the velvet side down so that in pushing down the wrong side receives the pressure of the hand or stick. After dyeing, im- mediately apply to the wrong side a solution of gum or gelatine, and dry. As regards the rest, it is treated like cleaned velvet. DYEING WOOL AND SILK (GLORIA) FABRICS. Gloria is woven from the two fibres wool and silk of a fine texture so that it can be used in the place of a silk fabric. It is mostly dyed with the acid dyes and these, as a rule, dye the wool more strongly than the silk when applied at boiling heat, the converse being the case at low and medium tern peratures. The following dyes act equally on wool and silk at boiling heat; Fast Green, Bluish mark (By.) Patent 230 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. Blue, Alkali Blue, Alkali Violet, Navy Blue, B (B. A. S. F.), Acid Violet 6 B N (By.), Fast Acid Violet A 2 R and 10 B (M. L. Br. and By.), Bengal Rose (dyed with acetic acid), Anthracite Black (C.), Naphthylamine Black D (C.), etc. The following have a rather stronger affinity for wool : Light Green S, Wool Green (B. A. S. F.), the Acid Orange dyes, like Orange I I, a few Ponceaus, like Palatine Scarlet (B. A. S. F.), Brilliant Croceine (C.), etc. On the basis of their affinity for silk and wool, the acid dyes may be divided into three groups, those given above as having an almost identical affinity for both fibres being taken as the first group. To the second group belong such dyes as chiefly dye wool- when applied at boiling heat, e. g., Acid Green, extra cone. (C.), Tartrazine, Orange G, a few Pon- ceaus, as mark 2 R (M. L. Br.), Indigo-carmine Cyanine (M. L. Br.), etc. Finally the third group comprises the dyes having more affinity for silk than for wool at medium and low temperatures : Azo- carmine (B. A. S. F.), Acid Violet N (M. L. Br.). Fast Acid Blue B (By.), Water Blue, etc., as also the majority of the basic dyes such as Methyl Green, Auramine, Rhodamine, etc. The best means of dyeing wool and -silk to shade is by using the dyes of Group I, unless prevented by other reasons such as their equalizing properties, suitability for combinations, etc. The mode of ap- plication is as follows: The bath is set with about 10 per cent, of " tartar preparation," bisulphate, and one- half the necessary quantity of dye, the goods being GARMENT DYEING. 231 then entered, and the bath raised to boiling heat as quickly as the equalizing properties of the dye per- mit, boiling being continued until the wool appears sufficiently shaded. The silk will, as a rule, be less deep in color; consequently after boiling the bath down to between 113 and 122 F., the rest of the dye is added, and the operation continued in the cooling bath until the silk has been properly dyed. If, however, this result fails to ensue, recourse must be had to a suitable dye of the third group. In this manner a light yellow may be obtained with azo- flavine, which, however, turns dirty in dark shades; a dark yellow and orange, with Orange I I; red with Azocarmine, Magdala red, or a Ponceau ; pale blue with Patent Blue; dark blue with Acid Violet 6 B N, and a bluish fast green ; black with Anthracite Black, deepened with Orange and a basic green at low tem- perature. For mode colors, use is preferably made of Azocarmine, Patent Blue and Azoflavine. To produce " shot " effects the following pro- cedure is adopted : The wool is dyed first with a dye of the second group, at boiling heat; the small amount of dye that has become fixed on the fibre of the silk is then removed by boiling with water, soap, or ammonium acetate, and the silk afterwards dyed in a third bath containing a dye of the third group, the bath being concentrated and cold, or, at most, lukewarm. Red, for instance, is produced on the wool by the aid of Ponceau 2 R, and the silk dyed green with Methyl Green and Auramine; or the wool dyed green with Acid Green extra cone., the silk red with Rhodamine, etc. 232 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. DYEING WOOLEN GARMENTS AND FABRICS. The various methods which are used for dyeing wool have, of course, underlying them certain princi- ples on which they are based, and on the observance of which much of the success of the process depends. Wool must be treated differently from cotton, since a process of dyeing which gives good results with the latter fibre would lead to nothing but dis- astrous effects with wool or silk. On the other hand processes are used in the dyeing of wool which could not be possibly used for cotton on account of the very different properties of the fibre. Without entering too much into detail it may be said broadly that the application of the various color- ing matters to wool is governed by three principles, namely: Dyeing with acid dyestuffs, with basic dye- stuffs, and dyeing with mordant dyes. The application of the acid dyestuffs is effected in the presence of acids or salts, viz., sulphuric acid, sodium bisulphate, Glauber's salt, alum, acetic acid, ammonium acetate, or ammonium oxalate. The object of these acid adjuncts is to neutralize the calcium bicarbonate in the dye water, liberate the dye acid, and finally to diminish the solubility of the latter in water, thus facilitating its absorption by the fibre and helping the bath to " draw." The stronger the acid the better and more quickly is the dye ab- sorbed by the wool. An equally important role is played by Glauber's salt which acts as a regulator to ensue uniform absorption of the dye by checking the rate of absorption. GARMENT DYEING. 233 The usual method of dyeing wool with acid dyes is as follows : The bath is charged with 2 to 4 per cent, of sulphuric acid, 10 per cent, of Glauber's salt and the solution of dyestuff, the goods being entered at a lukewarm or medium temperature, and gradually raised to boiling, which is maintained for one hour to one and a quarter. This prolonged boiling is es- sential for securing the equalization of the dye, though some dyes, such as indigo- carmine, dye well at somewhat lower temperature. Only in the case of light shades is three-quarters of an hour boiling sufficient; and here it is advisable for better equali- zation to dye with less acid and more Glauber's salt. The basic dyestuffs are taken up by wool in a very uniform manner without the use of any adjuncts in the dye bath, and the absorption begins at a tem- perature of 86 to 104 F. Hard water should be corrected with acetic acid until the reaction is slightly acid. The goods are entered lukewarm, and the operation is continued for about an hour, the tem- perature not being allowed to exceed about 176 F., Dyeings performed at boiling heat are less brilliant in color. Nevertheless gentle boiling is admissible in the case of dark shades, and of a few dyes of this class, such as Methyl Violet Auramine must be dyed in a neutral bath. The brightest colors are obtained by adding a little Marseilles soap to the neutral dye bath and avoiding higher temperatures, about 122 F. being the limit. In this case, however, in order to avoid stains, the water must first be boiled with soap and the resulting scum removed. 2^4 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. In dyeing with mordant dyes the nature of the bath water plays an important part, and therefore the water used must have been corrected with acetic acid ; otherwise a partial precipitation of the color, in the form of lime and magnesia lakes, may occur. In some cases organic impurities have an unfavorable effect, e.g. in presence of Cochineal or Alizarine Blue. The mordants used are various compounds of chrome, iron, and alumina. By the operation of mordanting, a deposit of oxide of the metal is formed on the fibre ; and this, combining with the coloring matter, forms with it an insoluble colored body on the fabric, and so dyes it. The particular color thus developed on the fibre depends not only upon the coloring matter, but also upon the mordant which is used, Alizarine, for instance, dyed on an alumina mordant develops a scarlet, on a chrome mordant, a dark red. on an iron mordant a dark violet. The mordanting is usually done before the dyeing, but it may be done after the dyeing ; much depends upon the character of the dyestuff which is used. Some coloring matters such as Alizarine and Gambine, have but little affinity for the fibre and will not dye unmordanted wool. On the other hand such dye- stuffs as logwood, fustic, and some of the coal-tar colors have considerable affinity for the fibre and may be first applied and then fixed by treatment with the mordant. In some cases the dyeing and mordanting may be effected in one bath. This method has the advantage of being quicker, more simple, and consequently cheaper, but in most cases GARMENT DYEING. 235 the dyeings are not so full or not so well fixed as with goods previously mordanted. Preparing woolen garments for dyeing. Proper cleaning is the prime requisite for successful dyeing. It is impossible to dye uniformly or of a good color on fabrics which are at all dirty. On goods which are not scrupulously clean the best dyes, even in the hands of the most skillful dyer, can but give second- rate results, while it is a matter of experience that when the garments are properly cleaned before dye- ing, a second-rate workman can get passable results with dyes which are by no means the best of their kind upon the market. The first step to be done with the garments is to sort them into four classes, the dirtier dark-colored ones being put separate from the cleaner dark- colored ones, and the same with those of lighter shades. White goods are cleaned by soaking for four to six hours in a warm soap bath containing a little ammonia. In any case stains are first rubbed over with soap, and the garments are then worked for an hour in a carbonate of soda bath of from I to I J^ per cent, strength, and at a temperature of about 120 F. The cleaner goods are treated first, and one soaking will probably suffice, and will leave a bath which can be used for the first soaking of the dirty garments. All the goods are rinsed first in very weak soda water, then in warm, and finally in cold water. For very dirty garments a soap washing may be necessary before the treatment with soda. Hangings and up- 236 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. holstery must be first worked in cold water to free them from dust, and then washed with soap in the washing machine and finally rinsed as above de- scribed. The preliminary washing being finished, any remaining stains are removed, as far as possible, by the usual methods before the dyeing is begun. The next point is to strip the old dyes as far as pos- sible, especially if the new shade is to be medium or light. In many cases boiling in plain water is suf- ficient. Woolens may require treatment with nitric acid, but great care must be taken not to have the acid too strong. From 3 to 4 Be. is a good strength. The action, too, should not be extended over five minutes, or the wool will receive too pro- nounced a yellow shade. Rinsing after the action of the acid must be ample and immediate. The acid bath can be used several times without renewal. The receipts for dyeing given below are intended to be for 10 Ibs. weight of woolen material of any kind. i. Black on wool. a. Jet black. Make the dye bath with 6*/ 2 ozs. Acid Black S, | oz. Fast Yellow F Y, 5 ozs. sulphuric acid, and I Ib. Glauber's salt. This bath shows how, by the addition of a little yellow, the blue shade may be changed to a full jet black. b. Prepare the dye bath with 6^ ozs. Naphthol Black B, if ozs. Naphthol Green B, f oz. Indian yel- low, 6^4 ozs. sulphuric acid and I Ib. Glauber's salt. c. Blue black. Make the dye bath with 9 ozs. Anthracene Black B, I Ib. Glauber's salt and 9 ozs. bisulphate of soda, working at the boil for one hour. GARMENT DYEING. 237 Anthracite black does not require a bath so acid as do some other coal-tar blacks. The shade obtained is a full blue black which is fast to acids ; alkalies turn it a little bluer and soaping causes some loss of color. d. Violet black. Make the dye bath with 6% ozs. Anthracite Black B and I Ib. bisulphate of soda. e. Dead black. Make the dye bath with 6^ ozs. Anthracite Black R, I ]/ 2 ozs., Anthracene Yellow C, and I Ib. bisulphate of soda. Work at the boil for I hour, then lift, add 5 ozs. fluoride of chrome, and work again at the boil for 20 minutes. /. Diamond black. Mordant by boiling for one hour in a bath made from 6^ ozs. bichromate of potash and 5 ozs. of tartar. Then rinse and dye in a bath containing 5*^ ozs. Diamond Black, 2^ ozs. Alizarine Cyanine R R R double, and I y 2 ozs. Gam- bine Yellow, working at the boil from one to one and a half hours. Another dye bath for diamond black is as follows : I Ib. Glauber's salt, 4 ozs. Diamond Black, I oz. Diamond Green. Boil for an hour, then pass through a fresh bath of 3 ozs. bichromate of potash for three- quarters of an hour at the boil, wash and dry. g. Brown black. Mordant by boiling for ij^ hours in a bath made with 5 ozs. fluoride of chrome and I y^ ozs. oxalic acid ; then rinse and dye in a bath containing 2^ Ibs. Alizarine Cyanine Black G, 5 ozs. Anthracene Brown, 8 ozs. acetate of ammonia and \y?, ozs. acetic acid, working at the boil for one and a half hours. 238 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. h. Chromotrop black. Prepare the dye bath with 9 ozs. Chromotrop S, ^ oz. Alazarine Yellow G G W, I Ib. Glauber's salt and 6^ ozs. sulphuric acid. Slowly raise to the boil and work for one hour; then add to the same dye bath 5 ozs. bichro- mate of potash aud I y 2 ozs. sulphuric acid, working at the boil for one hour. This yields a jet black. A blue black is obtained by using a bath contain- ing 9> ozs - Chromotrop 10 B and 6*/ 2 ozs. sulphuric acid. Dye and develop the black by adding to the same bath 5 ozs. bichromate of potash and I ^ ozs. sulphuric acid. 1. Logwood black. Boil the goods for two hours in a bath prepared with 7 Ibs. logwood, I Ib. fustic, ^ Ib. sumach, and ^ Ib. tartar ; then lift and add to the bath i ^ Ibs. copperas and ^ Ib. bluestone. Re-enter the goods and work at the boil until the black has been developed. Lift, wash and dry. 2. Gray on wool. a. Silver gray. Dye in a bath containing 3 ozs. Acid Blue 4 S, %^ oz. Titan Red, and 5 ozs. acetate of ammonia. b. A shade similar to the last is dyed in a bath containing i Ib. Glauber's salt, I oz. bisulphate of soda and a very small quantity of Anthracite Black R. .c Pearl gray. Make the dye bath with i Ib. Glauber's salt, 8 ozs. acetic acid and i oz. Naphthyl- amine Black D. d. Dark gray. Prepare a bath from ^ Ib. log- wood and 3^ Ib. galls. Enter the goods into this and work for half an hour at the boil. Then lift, add y 2 Ib. copperas, re-enter the goods, and work for half an hour longer. GARMENT DYEING. 239 3. Scarlet on wool, a. Make the dye bath with 5 ozs. Titan Scarlet E and i Ib. acetate of ammonia. This gives a good bright shade of scarlet which is fast to acids. b. Dye in a bath made with 5 ozs. Diamine Scarlet B and I Ib. Glauber's salt. This yields a light shade. c. Make the dye bath with 5 ozs. Benzopurpurine B and I Ib. Glauber's salt. 4. Crimson on wool. a. Dye with 5^ ozs. Saf- franine and i^ Ibs. Glauber's salt. b. A very fine shade of crimson is dyed with I y 2 ozs. Fast Acid Violet R, 10 ozs. Glauber's salt, and 2 ozs. sulphuric acid. 5. Deep red on wool. Use a bath containing 5 ozs. Rhoduline Red and I Ib. Glauber's salt. 6. Ponceau on wool. Prepare a bath with 3 ozs. Ponceau R, I Ib. Glauber's salt and 3^ ozs. sul- phuric acid. Enter the goods in the cold, bring to a boil and work to shade ; wash and dry. 7. Maroon on wool. Make a dye bath with I ^ ozs. Acid Magenta, 2 ozs. Orange G, ^ Ib. indigo extract, y 2 Ib. Glauber's salt and 4 ozs. sulphuric acid. Work at the boil to shade. 8. Terracotta red on wool. Make the dye bath from 4 ozs. Fast Acid Magenta B, 4 ozs. Fast Yellow F Y, i Ib. Glauber's salt, 3 ozs. sulphuric acid. Work at the boil to shade. 9. Cherry red on wool. Make the dye bath with 4 ozs. Fast Acid Magenta B, 4 ozs. Fast yellow, i Ib. Glauber's salt and 3 ozs, sulphuric acid. 10. Bordeaux red on wool. Use a bath containing 240 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 5 ozs. Titan Scarlet D, ^ oz. Titan Brown O, and 2 Ibs salt. Work at the boil for one hour, then lift, wash and dry. 11. Claret red on wool. a. Use a bath containing 6^ ozs. Archil Substitute N, i Ib. Glauber's salt and 3 ozs. sulphuric acid. b. A deep fine shade is dyed with 3 ozs. Azo Red A, y oz.' Orange extra, ^ oz. Cyanole, I Ib. Glauber's salt, and 3 ozs. sulphuric acid. 12. Bright red on wool. A good shade is dyed with 6^ ozs. Lanafuchsine S G and I Ib. bisulphate of soda. 13. Orange on wool. a. Dye with 3 ozs. Ponceau 3 G, I Ib. Glauber's salt, and 3 ozs. sulphuric acid. b. Bright orange. Dye with 3 ozs. Mandarine G, 1. Ib. Glauber's salt and 3 ozs. sulphuric acid. c. Pale orange. Dye with 5 ozs. Diamine Gold, I Ib. Glauber's salt and 8 ozs. ammonium acetate. d. Reddish orange. Dye with 5 ozs. Diamine Orange D C and 2 Ibs Glauber's salt. 14. Yellow on wool. Make the dye bath with \y 2 ozs. Fast Yellow F Y, I Ib. Glauber's salt and 3 ozs. sulphuric acid, working at the boil to shade. 15. Bright yellow on wool. Prepare a bath with 3 ozs. Milling yellow O, I Ib. Glauber's salt and 3 ozs. sulphuric acid. Work at the boil. 1 6. Deep yellow on wool. Dye in a bath made with 2^ ozs. Titan Yellow R, I Ib. common salt and i^ ozs. acetic acid. Work at the boil to shade. 17. Golden yellow on wool. Mordant with 5 ozs. bichromate of potash and 3 ozs. tartar. Dye with I 2 ozs. Anthracene Yellow C. GARMENT DYEING. 24! 1 8. Green on wool. a. Dark green. Make a dye bath with I ^ ozs. Titan Blue 36,1^ ozs. Titan Yellow Y, 2 Ibs. salt, and I oz. acetic acid. b. Bright green. Prepare a dye bath with \y 2 ozs. Titan Yellow G, I ^ ozs. Titan Blue 3 B, 2 Ibs. salt and i oz. acetic acid working at the boil for one hour. c. Bottle green. The dye bath is made with 8 ozs. Acid Blue 4 S, 4 oz?. Titan Yellow Y. and 8 ozs. acetate of ammonia, working at the boil to shade. d. Sage green. Make the dye bath with i Ib. Glauber's salt, 3 ozs. sulphuric acid, 3 ozs. Azo Yellow and i ^ ozs. Patent Blue N, working at the boil. e. Medium green. Use a dye bath containing i Ib. indigo extract, 2 ozs. picric acid, i y% ozs. Acid Green, ^ Ib. Glauber's salt and 3 ozs. sulphuric acid, working at the boil to shade. f. Olive green. Make the dye bath with 5 ozs. Naphthol Green B, i Ib. Glauber's salt, i^ Ibs. bisulphate of soda and i^ ozs. copperas, working at the boil to shade. g. Emerald green. Use a dye bath made with i oz. Acid Green B, i Ib. Glauber's salt and 3 ozs. sul- phuric acid. 19. Blue on wool. a. Bright blue. Prepare a bath with 3 ozs. of borax and i^ ozs. Alkali Blue B. Enter the goods at about 170 F., then heat to the boil, and work for half an hour. Then lift, rinse lightly, and pass through a weak sour bath with sul- phuric acid to raise to the color. b. Dark blue. Prepare a dye bath with 3 ozs. 16 242 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. Serge Blue, I Ib. Glauber's salt and 3 ozs. sulphuric acid, working at the boil for one hour. c. Navy blue. Prepare a dye bath with 3 ozs. Induline A, I Ib. Glauber's salt, and 3 ozs. sulphuric acid, working at the boil for one hour. d. Blue-black. Make a dye bath with 13 ozs. Acid Blue I V, I Ib. Glauber's salt and 3 ozs. sul phuric acid, working at the boil for one hour. e. Deep navy blue. Prepare a dye bath with 8 ozs. Acid Blue I V, 5 ozs. Acid Violet I V, I Ib. Glau- ber's salt, and 3 ozs. sulphuric acid, working at the boil for one hour. /. Peacock blue. Make a dye bath with i ^ Ibs. indigo extract, y 2 Ib. Glauber's salt, 3 ozs. sulphuric acid, and ^ oz. picric acid, working at the boil to shade. g. Dark peacock blue. Make a dye bath with \y 2 ozs. Naphthol Blue Black, I Ib. Glauber's salt, and 3 ozs. sulphuric acid. h. Violet blue. Prepare a dye bath with 3 ozs. Victoria Violet 8 B S, I Ib. Glauber's salt, and 3 ozs. sulphuric acid, working at the boil to shade. Then lift, wash and dry. i. Deep sky-blue. Dye in a bath containing y 2 oz. Cyanole extra, i Ib. Glauber's salt and 3 ozs. acetic acid. 20. Violet on wool. a. Pale violet. Prepare a dye bath with i y 2 ozs. Sulphon Cyanine, y 2 oz. Geranine B, y 2 Ib. Glauber's salt and y 2 Ib. acetate of am- monia, working at the boil for one hour. b. Violet. Make the dye bath with 3 ozs. Acid GARMENT DYEING. 243 Violet 4 B S, I Ib. Glauber's salt and 3 ozs. sulphuric acid. This gives a pure violet shade. If Acid Violet 6 B S be used, a bluer shade is obtained. c. Deep violet. A fine deep shade is obtained by using \y 2 ozs. Chromotrop 6 R, 4 ozs. Cyanine B, i Ib. Glauber's salt, and 3 ozs. sulphuric acid, work- ing at the boil for one hour. d. Mauve. Use 3 ozs. Acid Mauve B, i Ib. Glau- ber's salt and 3 ozs. sulphuric acid. 21. Brown on wool. a. Make the dye bath with i y% ozs. Nyanza Black B, 3 ozs. Congo Brown R, and 2 Ibs. Glauber's salt, working at the boil for one hour; then lift, wash, and dry. b. Yellow-brown. Use a dye bath containing i ^ ozs. Azo Carmine, i y? ozs. Fast Yellow, I ^ ozs. Indigo Carmine D, i Ib. Glauber's salt and 3 ozs. sulphuric acid. This yields a good shade. c. Olive-brown. Use i oz. Azo Acid Violet 4 R, 3 ozs. Fast Yellow, ^ oz. Fast Green Bluish, I Ib. Glauber's salt and 3 ozs. sulphuric acid, working at the boil for one hour; then lift, wash and dry. d. Deep seal. Dye in a bath containing i^ ozs. Orange G G, * oz. Azo Yellow, ^ oz. Acid Violet N, i Ib. Glauber's salt, and 3 ozs. sulphuric acid. e. Deep brown. Make the dye bath with 3 ozs. Chromotrop 2 R, 2 ozs. Victoria Yellow, 6^ ozs. Keton Blue G, ^ oz. Acid Violet 5 B E, i ^ Ibs. Glauber's salt and 6^ ozs. sulphuric acid, working at the boil for one hour. /. Walnut. Use \y 2 ozs. Cyanole, i l / 2 ozs. Orange extra, ^ oz. Archil Substitute N, i Ib. Glau- 244 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. ber's salt and 3 ozs. sulphuric acid, working at the boil for one hour. g. Olive-brown. Make a dye bath with 3 ozs. sulphuric acid, I Ib. Glauber's salt, \y 2 ozs. Azo Fuchswie G, ^ oz. Fast Yellow, and ^ oz. Fast Green extra bluish. DYEING MIXED COTTON AND WOOL GOODS. A large quantity of fabrics for men's suits are now made from wool and cotton. The garment dyer will obtain the best results in dyeing such goods by using direct dyes, it being chiefly necessary that a little at- tention be paid, particularly to goods in which the cotton either appears on the surface forming a de- sign, or is spun or twisted together with the wool. The direct dyes work, as a rule, on the two fibres with equal facility, especially if the dye bath contains rather more Glauber's salt than usual. The diamine dyes are also of considerable service, either used alone or with the addition of a wool dye, to shade off the wool part of the garment to the color of the cotton. i. Black, a. With 10 gallons of dye liquor use 4}^ Ibs. Union Black S, 2 ozs. Diamine Fast Yellow A, 5 ozs. Naphthol Blue Black, 3^ ozs. Formyl Violet 846, and 4 Ibs. Glauber's salt. If desired the goods may be subjected after dyeing to a treatment with alum or better bichromate of potash. The goods after being dyed are rinsed and then passed into a bath at a temperature of 140 F. containing 3 Ibs. bichromate of potash and I ^ to 2 GARMENT DYEING. 245 ozs. sulphuric acid. After being chromed in .this bath for about half an hour they are well washed. This chroming thoroughly fixes the color on the cotton and it will not change while being finished either by steaming or hot pressing. b. A very fine black can be obtained from 3^ Ibs. Oxydiamine Black R M, 2 Ibs. Union Black S, g}4 ozs. Naphthol Blue Black and 4 ozs. Formyl Violet S 4 B, chroming after dyeing as described above. 2. Blue black. Use 3^ Ibs. Union Black S, \% Ibs. Oxydiamine Black B M, 6^ ozs. Naphthol Blue Black and % Ib. Formyl Violet 846, and 4 Ibs. of Glauber's salt, per 10 gallons dye liquor. 3. Dark blue. For 10 gallons dye bath use 4^ Ibs. Diamine Dark Blue B, i^ Jbs. Diamine Brilliant Blue G, y^ Ib. Formyl Violet S 4 B, 5 ozs. Naphthol Blue Black, and 4 Ibs. Glauber's salt. 4. Daik brown, a. For a dye bath of 5 gallons use \y^ Iba. Diamine Orange B, 6y 2 ozs. Diamine Bordeaux B, ^ Ib. Diamine Fast Yellow B, ^ Ib. Union Black, I ^ ozs. Naphthol Black, and 2 Ibs. Glauber's salt. b. Dye the wool with 4 ozs. Glauber's salt, 4 ozs. alum. I oz. sulphuric acid, and 2 ozs. Acid brown, and i oz. indigo extract. Work for one hour at the boil, then rinse and pass into a warm bath of I > Ibs. cutch and 3^ ozs. bluestone and steep for 3 hours. Lift and pass through a bath of 3 ozs, bichromate of potash and 2 ozs. alum for 15 minutes; then dye in a bath containing 4 ozs. camwood, 6 ozs, logwood extract and 6 ozs. fustic extract, working at the boil to shade. 24^ DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. 5. Scarlet. For a dye bath of five gallons use \y 2 Ibs. Benzopurpurine 46,^ oz. Ponceau 3 R B, ^ Ib. Curcumine S, and 2 Ibs. Glauber's salt. 6. Crimson. For 5 gallons dye liquor use 2 Ibs. Glauber's salt, ^ Ib. Congo Corinth G, I Ib. Ben- zopurpurine 10 B, and ^ Ib. Curcumine S. 7. Orange. For 5 gallons dye liquor use 4^ ozs. Congo Brown G, ^ Ib. Mikado Orange 4 R O, y oz. Mandarine G and 2 Ibs. Glauber's salt. 8. Dark green. For 5 gallons dye liquor use I Ib. Columbia Green, ^ Ib. Sulphon Azurine D, ^ Ib. Zambesi Blue B X, ^ oz. Curcumine S, and 2 Ibs. Glauber's salt. 9. Slate. For 5 gallons dye bath, use 2 Ibs. Glauber's salt, ^ Ib. Zambezi Black D, ^ oz. Zambesi Blue R X, ^ oz. Mikado Orange 4 R O, and y oz. Acid Violet 6 B. 10. Dark gray. For 5 gallons dye bath use 2 Ibs. Glauber's salt, y 2 Ib. Columbia Black FB, \y 2 ozs. Zambesi Black B and ^ oz. Sulphon Azurine D. 11. Drab. For 5 gallons dye liquor use 2 Ibs. Glauber's salt, ^ Ib. Zambesi Black D, ^ oz. Mandarine G extra, ^ oz. Curcumine extra, and \y 2 ozs. Mikado Orange 4 R O. 12. Cornflower blue. For 5 gallons dye bath use i y 2 ozs. Chicago Blue 4 R, 2 ozs. Zambesi Blue R X, 2 ozs. Acid Violet 6 B, ^ oz. Zambesi Brown G, and 2 Ibs. Glauber's salt. 13. Sage brown. For 5 gallons dye bath use 4 ozs. Zambesi Black D, ^ oz. Mandarine G extra, i y% ozs. Curcumine extra, I ^ ozs. Acid Violet 6 B, GARMENT DYEING. 247 3 ozs. Mikado Orange 4 R O, 2^ ozs. Curcumine S, and 2 Ibs. Glauber's salt. 14. Dark sage. Use for 5 gallons dye bath, 2 Ibs. Glauber's salt, 8 ozs. Diamine Orange B, 3^ ozs. Union Black, ^ oz. Diamine Brown M, \% ozs. Azo Red A, and \% ozs. Naphthol Blue Black. 15. Peacock green. For 5 gallons dye bath use 2 Ibs. Glauber's salt, i^ Ibs. Diamine Black H W, 2% ozs. Diamine Fast Yellow B, 12 ozs. Thiocarmine R, and ^ oz. Indian Yellow G. DYEING OF COTTON GOODS. Cotton fabrics generally contain a size, which fills or envelopes the fibre and thus impedes the uniform reception of the new coloring matter. Before dyeing, the complete removal of these foreign substances be- comes, therefore, necessary. Simple wetting or wash- ing in a soda bath is not sufficient for this purpose. A reliable method for the removal of the size is as follows: Boil 22 Ibs. of the fabric with 3*^ Ibs. of soda for i hour, rinse, then work it in a hot moder- ately sour sulphuric acid bath for 10 minutes, and rinse thoroughly. With the introduction of the direct dyes, cotton dyeing has become even more simple than wool or silk dyeing, and now all that is necessary is to prepare a dye liquor containing the necessary amount of dyestuffs and Glauber's salt or common salt or soda, or some similar body, or a combination thereof. The method of working is to place the goods in a lukewarm, or even in a hot, bath, raise to the boil, 248 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. allow the goods to remain in the boiling bath for half an hour to an hour, then take them out, wring, wash and dry. This method is simple and will answer for all direct dyes. There are some that do not require the working to be done boiling, it being only neces- sary to enter the goods into a boiling bath and work without heat or steam until the bath has cooled down. Furious boiling is not needed, a gentle simmering giving the best results. An enormous variety of shades and tints can be obtained from the direct dyes, and they can be combined together in every conceivable manner and proportion. Although cotton dresses are but seldom brought to the professional garment dyer, such dresses being in most cases scarcely considered worth the trouble of redyeing, a few receipts for dyeing with direct colors are here given. The formulas are intended for 10 Ibs. weight of goods. 1. Scarlet on cotton. Prepare the dye bath with 4f ozs. Titan Scarlet C, | oz. Titan Orange, 5 Ibs. salt. Work at the boil for 30 minutes, then lift, wash and dry. 2. Crimson red on cotton. Make a dye bath with 6f ozs. Titan Scarlet D and 5 Ibs. salt. Work at the boil for 50 minutes, then lift, wash and dry. 3. Pink on cotton. Make the dye bath with y 2 oz. Dianil Red 4 B, 8 ozs. salt and 4^ ozs. soda. 4. Claret on cotton. Dye with 2f ozs. Dianil Claret G, 4! ozs. soda and 2 Ibs. salt. Work at the boil for one hour. 5. Maroon on cotton. Dye with 4* ozs. Dianil GARMENT DYEING. 249 Claret B, 4* ozs. soda, and 2 Ibs. salt. Work at the boil for one hour. 6. Salmon on cotton. Dye with ^ oz. Titan Brown O and 10 ozs. common salt, working at the boil for one hour. 7. Yellow on cotton. Make the dye bath with if ozs. Titan Yellow Y, I Ib. salt. Heat to :8o F., enter the goods, raise to boiling, and dye for one hour; lift, wash and dry. 8. Old gold on cotton. Prepare the dye bath with 8 ozs. Diamine Yellow N powder, 2 Ibs. phosphate of soda, i Ib. soap. Work at the boil for one hour. 9. Dark yellow on cotton. Make the bath with 3^ ozs. Toluylene Orange G, I Ib. phosphate of soda, and 4 ozs. soap, working at the boil to shade. 10. Cream on cotton. A pleasant shade of cream is obtained by using a very'small quantity of Toluy- lene Orange G, Brilliant Orange G, if ozs. soda, and j Ib. Glauber's salt. 1 1 . Orange on cotton, a. Use a dye bath contain- ing 4! ozs. Mikado Orange G, and 2^/ 2 Ibs. salt. Work at the boil for one hour. b. Dark orange. Dye with 4^ ozs. Columbia Orange R, 4| ozs. soda, and 2 Ibs. Glauber's salt at the boil for one hour. 12. Green on cotton, a. Prepare the dye bath with 3| ozs. Benzo Green G, I Ib. Glauber's salt. Enter lukewarm, bring slowly to the boil, dye for one hour at the boil. b. Sage green. Prepare a dye bath with i Ib. Glauber's salt, \ oz. Diamine Black R O, 3| ozs. 250 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. Diamine Yellow N. Enter at about 150 F., then raise to boil and dye boiling for one hour; wash and dry. c. Bright grass green. Dye for one hour at the boil with if ozs. Sulphon Azurine D, 3^023. Thiazole Yellow, and 2 Ibs. Glauber's salt. d. Dark green. Dye with 4! ozs. Diamine Dark Green N, 4| ozs. soda, and 2 Ibs. Glauber's salt. 13. Blue on cotton, a. Use a dye bath containing 6| ozs. Diamine Blue B G, 3| ozs. soda, \y 2 Ibs. Glauber's salt. Dye at the boil for one hour. b. Sky blue. Prepare the dye bath with if ozs. Diamine Sky Blue F F, if ozs. Turkey red oil, 2 Ibs. Glauber's salt. Dye at the boil for one hour. c. Navy blue. Prepare the dye bath with 6f ozs. Benzo Chrome Black Blue B, i^ Ibs. Glauber's salt, 4i ozs. soda. Work at the boil for one hour, lift, rinse and dry. d. Dark navy. Use 3^ ozs. Dianil Dark Blue R, 1 1 ozs. Dianil Black C R, 3^ ozs. soda and 2^ Ibs. salt, working at the boil for one hour. e. Violet blue. Dye with 4! ozs. Dianil Dark Blue R, and 2^ Ibs. salt at the boil for one hour. 14. Plum on cotton. Dye with 4^ ozs. Oxydiamine Violet G, 4! ozs. soda, and 2 Ibs. salt. 15. Violet on cotton. Make' the dye bath with i| ozs. Oxydiamine Violet B, if ozs. soda, and i Ib. Glauber's salt, and dye at the boil to shade. 1 6. Brown on cotton, a. Use 6f ozs. Paramine Brown G, 2 Ibs. Glauber's salt, and 3^ ozs. soda. Dye at the boil for one hour. GARMENT DYEING. 251 b. Light brown. Prepare the dye bath with 4! ozs. Diamine Catechine G, 4! ozs. soda, I ^ Ibs. Glauber's salt. c. Dark "brown. Use a dye bath containing 8 ozs. Diamine Catechine B, 4f ozs. soda, i y 2 Ibs. Glau- ber's salt. Dye at the boil for one hour. d. Gold brown. Make a dye bath with if ozs. Titan Gold, 5 Ibs. common salt. Enter at the boil, work for one hour, then lift, wash, and dry. e. Chestnut brown. Use a dye bath containing 4! ozs. Titan Brown R, 2f ozs. Titan Blue R, 2^ Ibs. common salt. Work at the boil to shade, then lift, wash and dry. 17. Black on cotton, a. Prepare the dye bath with 8 ozs. Oxydiamine Black A, 2 Ibs. Glauber's salt, and 3^ ozs. soda. Dye at the boil for one hour. b. Use 4 ozs. Diamine Jet Black Cr, 4 ozs. Dia- mine Jet Black R B, 3^ ozs. soda, and 2 Ibs. Glau- ber's salt, working at the boil for one hour. c. Use 9f ozs. Oxydiamine Black N R, 3i ozs. soda and 2 Ibs. Glauber's salt, working at the boil for one hour. d. Deei) black. Prepare the dye bath with 84 ozs. Diamine Deep Black R B, 3^ ozs. soda, 2 Ibs. Glau- ber's salt. Dye for one hour at the boil, lift, rinse and dry. 18. Gray on cotton. By using all the direct blacks in proportions varying from ^ to I per cent, of the dyestuflf to the weight of the goods, they give grays of various tints and depths. 252 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. DYEING COTTON AND LINEN GARMENTS CONTAINING JUTE. Fabrics used for these articles consist usually of a cotton or linen warp and a jute weft. They require considerable care in dyeing, as the jute has a much greater affinity for nearly every known dye than either linen or cotton. Jute, for example, can be dyed direct with basic dyes in an alum bath without previous mordanting, the bath exhausting well, while cotton or linen must first be mordanted to get even medium and particularly dark shades with a basic dye. In dyeing mixtures of cotton and linen with jute black, for instance, with a basic dye stuff, the weft will come out black, while the warp remains a dark gray at the best. The most common colors for these mixed goods are blacks, reds, blues and yellows, mixed and mode shades being less usual. The dyes most in use for pure jute are Coal Black, Victoria Blue, Croceine Scarlet and Auramine Yellow, but they are all quite unsuitable for mixtures of jute with cotton and linen. For them, direct or substantive dyes are best, such as Columbia Black, Benzopur- purine 4 B, Dianil Blue B, and Chrysophenine. Even these go somewhat deeper on to jute than on to cotton or linen. The remedy for all these difficulties is to mix the dye with the dressing. All the three fibres are then dyed alike, .but the exact quantity of dye to take must be accurately judged. Too much dye causes a bronzing of the color of the jute while, if there is any deficiency of dye, the levelling is lost and the cotton or linen comes out paler than the GARMENT DYEING. 253 jute. The following receipt has stood the test of prolonged trial very satisfactory for black. Wheat starch 2^ Ibs, 50 per cent. Turkey red oil i^ Ibs., Columbia Black F extra \y 2 Ibs., Dianil Green G 8 ozs., Glauber's salt 3 Ibs., carbonate of soda 8 ozs., tallow 4! ozs., water 10 gallons. Pass the goods slowly through this size at a tem- perature of from 176 to 194 F., and dry immedi- ately. Not only is the color good, but much labor is saved. Any direct dye can be applied in size in a similar way. X. STRIPPING COLORS FROM GARMENTS AND FABRICS. The garment dyer has generally to deal with clothes which are still quite good, but have lost their color. This has to be renovated or, in some cases, the cus- tomer requires the color to be changed to another. Formerly the art was almost confined to restoring the original color, but now browns have to be dyed on blue or green goods, greens on browns, and even greens and browns on stuffs originally black. Garment dyers frequently strip by a mere treat- ment with hot soda and soap. With goods dyed with acid colors this treatment is fairly successful, though much of the original color is restored when re-entering an acid dye bath. This alkaline treat- ment is always risky and, in most cases fatal to deli- cate wool. Generally speaking soda must be used with care ; while cotton goods will not be much af- fected, silk and wool fabrics are liable to be materi- ally altered. For stripping some of the aniline colors the fol- lowing process may be used : Prepare a liquor from i Ib. of zinc powder and 2^ ozs. of quicklime mixed with water; boil up for half an hour and then allow the mixture to settle. Decant the clear liquor from (254) STRIPPING COLORS. 255 the sediment and mix it with sufficient water to make a bath in which the goods can be conveniently worked. The goods are allowed to steep in the liquor for six to eight hours, taken out, rinsed, boiled in a fresh bath with 10 ozs. of alum and 1^4 ozs. of tartar for half an hour, washed and dried. The proportions given will generally suffice for 10 Ibs. of goods. Some colors such as browns and blacks may often be removed by boiling in a bath containing about 5 to 10 per cent, of bichromate of potash and about the same amount or rather more of sulphuric acid. This stripping method does not give a particularly good ground to work on owing to the objectionable yellow color imparted to the goods. However, it is quite suitable for the dyeing of medium and dark shades with the possible exception of blues. Silks dyed with aniline colors are usually stripped with nitric acid. However, if the color is a golden- yellow it will be found impossible to strip it. The stripping bath is made in a vessel of wood, earthen- ware, or enameled iron, but must never come in con- tact with the bare metal. The bath may be heated by steam or over an open fire. It is made with boiling water, 4 quarts of nitric acid and I quart of sulphuric acid. The amount of water should be such that the liquid shows about 6 Be. When the goods are im- mersed most of the colors disappear at once. Blues resist the longest, and the goods are kept immersed till they are discharged. The bath must be kept near the boil during its use. When lifted the goods are rinsed free from acid with hot water. To make 256 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. sure that the dye is destroyed, dip a corner of the fabric into dilute ammonia. If the color reappears, the piece must be returned to the acid bath. Great care is required in working with nitric acid as, if too strong or its action is too prolonged, the acid has a tendency to tender the fibre. Woolens are stripped in the same way as silk. It has been proposed to use cyanide of potassium for stripping certain fast colors, especially aniline blues. The nitric acid process is, however, preferable in spite of the yellow color it leaves. The goods are boiled in a weak solution of the cyanide and after several rinsings are transferred to a sulphurous acid bath at 122 F. Here the color disappears in the case of aniline blues and other dyes amenable to the process. The goods are then rinsed in a sulphuric acid bath without first rinsing. Care must be had to rinse out the cyanide perfectly before using the acid bath, or highly poisonous vapors will be copiously evolved. Mixtures of wool and silk are treated exactly like pure silk. Mixtures of wool and cotton are treated first with a weak carbonate of soda bath, then with eau de Javelle, and finally with nitric acid of 2 Be., without any sulphuric acid, if the colors still remain. The use of acids on cotton should, however, be avoided if possible, as it involves thorough and pro- longed rinsing. Peroxide of hydrogen may be used for all dyes not having a metallic base, i. e. without iron, lead, or chromium. The goods are placed in a bath of ten STRIPPING COLORS. 257 quarts of the peroxide and 3^ ozs. of ammonia. After an hour or two at the ordinary temperature, raise to boil. As soon as the bath boils it has lost all its power, so that the boiling need not last more than five minutes. This treatment destroys nearly all organic dyes. Peroxide of hydrogen is however a rather expensive stripping agent. An old method for stripping woolens, however rarely employed, consists in boiling with dilute sul- phuric or hydrochloric acid and nitrate of soda. This bath acts very energetically on the colors, and the fiber suffers little, but the escaping nitrous fumes are highly objectionable. But for the high price, potassium permanganate forms one of the best decolorizing agents both for animal and vegetable fibers. The goods are worked for about one hour in a co4d bath containing some- thing like 3 per cent, of their weight of permanganate and the same quantity of sulphuric acid, and then freed from deposited oxide by repeated treatment either with cold aqueous sulphurous acid or by boiling with oxalic acid. No difficulty is experienced in re-dyeing. The best stripping agent for cotton goods is chloride of lime. With the exception of a few yellows and oranges, all direct colors yield to the usual bleaching routine ; the same holds good with basic colors, and still more so with the sulphur colors. Sodium hydrosulphite plays now an important role as a stripping agent. It completely removes a large 17 258 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. number of dyes without any injury to the fiber. The bath should contain about 5 quarts of hydrosulphite to 100 of water, and the goods should be worked in it for from 15 to 30 minutes at 122 to 140 F. The process may be pushed so far that aniline-black or para- red may be stripped from cotton goods, and that without the slightest tendering. Sodium hydro- sulphite is prepared by adding slowly and with con- stant stirring 1 Ib. of zinc dust to a mixture of 10 Ibs. bisulphite of soda and I gallon of water. XI. ANALYSIS OF TEXTILE FABRICS. The dyer and cleaner should be able to analyze cloth by simple means. Linen, silk and wool are largely adulterated with cotton, and all these fibers behave differently even in ordinary washing. More- over, the varieties of unions and mixture cloths are constantly increasing, and in these days of mer- cerization and other processes, the sight and touch are not sufficient to identify a material. The fibers of which a tissue is composed are most readily and best determined with the assistance of the microscope. Everyone, however, does not pos- sess such an instrument and besides considerable skill and experience are required in its use. But chemistry has also furnished many reliable methods of analysis which are readily executed. The chief distinctive characteristics of the principal fibres as shown under the microscope are as follows : Cotton. This fiber appears under the microscope as a granular striped band, mostly twisted in the shape of a corkscrew, which is more particularly evi- dent when the fiber is moistened with water. The fiber is a flattened cylindric tube with thickened walls. Flax consists of the bast fibers from the plants of (259) 26O DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. the Linum family. Under the microscope the flax fiber appears as a long, straight, cylindrical tube of uniform thickness, either smooth or longitudinally striated, and frequently exhibiting transverse cracks. In many places it presents nodes and displacements, which cause it to look as though articulated. Hemp. Examined under the microscope the fiber of hemp is very similar to flax, exhibiting displace- ments, longitudinal fissures, and transverse cracks ; but it is less regular in thickness. The ends of the fibers are very characteristic, being very thick-walled and blunt, frequently branching sideways and thus affording a ready means of distinguishing this fiber from flax. Jute. In microscopic structure jute fiber exhibits a certain similarity to hemp and flax, but the longi- tudinal view shows neither displacement nor striations. Silk. Under the microscope the silk fiber ex- hibits the appearance of a clear, cylindrical double thread enclosed in a cloudy integument. It appears smooth and free from scales. Tussah silk. Under the microscope this variety of silk exhibits a highly characteristic appearance, differing greatly from true silk, the fibers showing strong striation and being apparently much con- stricted in parts. Unlike true silk, the fiber is not of circular cross section, but of elongated quadri- lateral form. Wool. When a fiber of sheep's wool is examined under the microscope, it is seen to consist of three parts, distinguished respectively as the scaly epider- ANALYSIS OF TEXTILE FABRICS. 26 1 mis, the cortex and the medulla or pith. The outer scaly epidermis is composed of thin horny scales lying one above the other like the tiles of a roof. In the finer qualities of wool a single scale is generally sufficient to entirely surround the wool hair, so that the latter seems to be formed of a number of cups set one within another, the upper of each scale being also generally projecting, ragged, and serrated. These scales form the chief external characteristics of sheep's wool, and render its detection under the mic- roscope an easy task. There are many intricate and elaborate means of chemically examining fibers and fabrics, but they are too troublesome for the use of the cleaner and dyer, and we shall therefore confine ourselves to those which are more easily attainable. Cellulose forms the basis of all vegetable textile fibers (cotton, flax, hemp, etc)., and they, therefore, vigorously resist the action of even boiling-hot aqueous solutions of the caustic alkalies, while they are strongly attacked by heated sulphuric, nitric, and hydrochloric acids, either in a concentrated or diluted state. Thus, for instance, a cotton fabric may, without suffering great injury, be immersed in cold water containing 5 to 10 per cent, of acid; but on heating the fluid, especially to the boiling point, the cotton in a short time becomes friable and dissolves. Fuming nitric acid, or a mixture of nitric and sulphuric acids, does not dissolve the vegetable fiber but converts it, almost without changing its physical appearance, into gun-cotton. 262 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. Ammonia, either at the ordinary or a raised tem- perature, produces no effect upon cotton and hemp. However, a solution of ammonio-oxide of copper (Schweitzer's reagent) dissolves cotton, hernp, and flax. In a pure state, vegetable textile fibers have but a feeble affinity for artificially prepared coloring mat- ters, they being but slightly or not at all dyed by them, and the application of a little soap suffices to remove the dye. They do not evolve a characteristic odor in burning. Wool, on the other hand, resists the action of even concentrated and hot acids quite well, but is dissolved, especially at a higher temperature, by caustic lyes. Since wool contains sulphur, there is formed by its solution in caustic soda a fluid which contains alkaline sulphide and sulphydrate, which are indicated by a beautiful violet tint produced by the addition of nitro-prusside of sodium. Nitric acid imparts to wool an intense yellow color; chlorine and hypochlorites act in a similar manner, they also impacting to wool a yellow color. At the ordinary temperature Schweit- zer's reagent has no effect on wool, but when heated dissolves it. When decomposed by heat, wool evolves the characteristic odor of burnt horn. It possesses great affinity for coloring matters, especially for those artificially prepared, by which it is readily dyed with- out a mordant. Silk, when burned, evolves an odor similar to wool. It is dissolved, especially at higher temperatures, by the above-mentioned acids in a concentrated state. ANALYSIS OF TEXTILE FABRICS. 263 Cold nitric acid colors silk yellow. Acids diluted with water do not act very vigorously upon silk. Concentrated alkaline lyes dissolve it, but the solu- tion does not contain alkaline sulphide like that of wool. Silk is changed, but not dissolved, by very dilute alkaline lyes. Ammonia produces no effect on it, while Schweitzer's reagent dissolves it. The affinity of silk for coloring matters is the same as that of wool. To establish the presence of vegetable fibers (cot- ton, hemp, flax, jute, etc.) in a tissue consisting of wool and silk, it is only necessary to boil the latter in a test-fluid containing 3^ ozs. solid caustic soda in one quart of water. Weigh out accurately y 2 to i drachm of the fabric to be examined ; introduce this sample, together with -jV quart of the soda-lye, into a porcelain casserole of about I pint capacity, and boil it over an alcohol or gas flame for five min- utes. If the mass dissolves, it consists only of animal fiber (silk or wool) ; but if it is not entirely dissolved, take the casserole from the fire, allow to settle, pour off the supernatant lye, and, after adding fresh lye, boil again for five minutes. If a residue now re- mains, it consists entirely of vegetable fiber. If the vegetable fiber is colored, the residue is brought upon a small cotton filter and washed with hot water. The washed fiber is then brought into lukewarm water acidulated with about 5 per cent, hydrochloric acid. After ten minutes add a little chlorine-water, or a few drops of chloride of lime solution, whereby the vege- table fiber is bleached. The filtrate of the caustic 264 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. soda solution, which contains wool or silk, may now immediately be tested as to the presence of wool. If the latter is present, alkaline sulphides have been formed, which remain in the solution. They can be immediately detected by the addition of a few drops of acetate of lead solution. If a white precipitate is formed, which is completely dissolved on shaking, silk only is present ; however, if a black precipitate of sulphide of lead is formed, the tested tissue con- tains wool. Instead of acetate of lead solution, a few drops of nitro-prusside of sodium solution may be used, which, as previously mentioned, produces in the presence of alkaline sulphides a beautiful violet tint. If the tissue is provided with much coloring mat- ter, E. Kopp recommends to cut the sample into small pieces and immerse the latter, with occasional stirring, for five minutes in a mixture of 2 volumes sulphuric acid of 60 Be. and I volume fuming nitric acid of 60 Be. By this means the wool, silk, and coloring matters are oxidized and destroyed, while the vegetable fiber is converted into gun-cotton, and retains its characteristic fibrous nature. The whole is then brought into a comparatively large quantity of water, in which the gun-cotton deposits. The fluid is then poured off, while the residue is collected upon a filter, thoroughly washed, and dried. The dry residue now shows the explosive property of gun- cotton. For testing white, or not too dark-colored mixed tissues, the affinity of the animal fibers for the arti- ANALYSIS OF TEXTILE FABRICS. 265 ficially-prepared coloring matters may also be uti- lized. Dark-colored tissues must first be decolorized by treatment with weak chlorine-water, and subse- quent thorough washing in boiling water. Certain precautions have, however, to be observed, since cot- ton, especially when impregnated with amylaceous or other substances serving for sizing, may also be dyed with aniline colors. These substances must first be removed, and for this purpose the tissue is first boiled for ten minutes in water which contains in 100 parts 2 parts of carbonate of soda and a little soap. The tissue is then rinsed in hot water, next steeped for five to ten minutes in water of 120 to 140 F., which contains 2 per cent, of hydrochloric or sulphuric acid, and finally thoroughly washed. In the meanwhile prepare a dye-bath, by, for in- stance, dissolving a few drachms of fuchsine in 25 to 30 cubic centimeters of water, heating the solution to boiling, and adding, during the boiling, caustic soda solution, drop by drop, until the bath shows only a pale rose color. Now remove the bath from the fire and introduce the tissue ; take it out after a few minutes, thoroughly wash it in clean water, and dry. The silk and woolen threads will be colored bright red, while the cotton, flax, etc., remain un- colored. For the detection of silk in wool, or wool in silk, in white or light-colored tissues, the presence of sul- phur in the wool may be utilized. Prepare a solution of oxide of lead in caustic soda by boiling litharge in the latter and, after settling, pouring off the clear 266 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. fluid. Immerse the tissue in the latter. In conse- quence of their content of sulphur the woolen threads immediately become black by the formation of black sulphide of lead, while the color of the silk threads, which contain no sulphur, remains unchanged. A simple method consists in the use of concentrated acids. Cold nitric acid dissolves silk, while wool is not perceptibly attacked by it. Silk acts in the same manner towards sufficiently concentrated cold sul- phuric acid. The last-mentioned acid at the same time frees the wool from vegetable fibers by convert- ing them into gum and sugar. It is better, however, to immerse the sample of the tissue in cold concentrated hydrochloric acid. The silk is in a short time completely dissolved, while the woolen and vegetable fibers remain behind unchanged. Now add water, collect the unchanged woolen and vegetable fibers upon a filter, and wash thoroughly As a rule, they must also be decolorized. Now to distinguish the woolen from the vegetable fibers, treat them either with boiling caustic soda-lye, which only dissolves the wool, or use artificially-pre- pared coloring-matters, such as fuchsine, aniline- violet, or picric acid, which do not dye the cotton if the necessary precautionary measures are taken. Before subjecting the tissues to a chemical test, it is advisable to free them from their sizing and color- ing-matters, the first of which is effected by succes- sive treatment with boiling water, either pure or slightly acidulated, or made alkaline by the addition of carbonate of soda, and the latter by chlorine-water. The tissues are finally carefully washed and dried. ANALYSIS OF TEXTILE FABRICS. 267 The following summary for distinguishing 'the purity of a fabric by chemical agents is given by the National Laundry Record : Cotton is completely decomposed by, and forms a a powder after being immersed in, strong hydro- chloric acid and dried. It is completely decomposed in a hot and strong solution of nitric acid. Weak sulphuric acid stains cotton blue. Cotton in linen cloth can be detected by immersion in caustic potash solution (i to 2), and then washing and drying. The flax is colored a deep yellow, but the cotton is not affected. Boiled in concentrated sulphuric acid for a minute or two, the cotton fiber is dissolved, but not the. flax. Boiled in water and dried, immersed in a strong solution of common salt and sugar, and then burnt, the cotton yields a black, and the flax a gray ash. To determine whether a so-called woolen cloth con- tains cotton, a 2 per cent, soda lye may be used. After drying, the fibers are separated. The remain- ing wool is weighed and compared with the original weight. Jute is colored dark brown by sulphuric acid. Linen acquires a blue color when treated with dilute sulphuric acid. Silk is dissolved by hot solutions of caustic soda, and destroyed by strong solutions of zinc chloride. Strong solutions of hydrochloric, nitric and sulphuric acids dissolve silk immediately. Tussah silk is stronger than true silk. It is not affected by a weak solution of caustic soda, which will dissolve true silk. 268 DRY CLEANER, SCOURER, GARMENT DYER. Cotton present in a so-called woolen fabric dissolves in a weak solution of hydrochloric acid. Cloth containing silk arid wool can be recognized by boiling in a hydrochloric acid solution. The silk is dissolved while the wool swells. Iodine and sulphuric acid in weak solution impart a blue stain to flax, a greenish-yellow stain to hemp ; a blue stain to rhea fibre ; a dark yellow stain to jute. Caustic soda in a solution of about 26.5 Be. causes the cotton fiber to shrink in length and become more transparent and lustrous. Cloth heated thus is called mercerized cloth. INDEX. ACID, acetic, 52, 53 benzoic, 102 Benzine, spontaneous ignition of, 16, 17 stills, 41-46 citric, 56, 57, 81 testing of, 4, 5 dyes, groups of, 230 vapor, explosion of, 14, 15 stripping goods dyed with, 254 dyestuffs, application of, 232 washing machines, 25-27 washing with, 27-32 hydrochloric, 57, 80 oleates, water-absorbing power of, 6 wet, drying ot, 21 Benzinized magnesia, 65 oxalate of potassium, 57 Benzoic acid, 102 ox.ihc, 57, 81 stains, 73 Beuzol, manner of distinguishing benzine from. 9 sulphuric, 80 or benzene, 8, 9 sulphurous, So, 81 ptoperties of, 8, Q tartaric, 56 Binoxalate of potassium, 57 Alcohol, 51 Ame;ican turpentine, 10 Birds' wings, dyeing of, 184, 185 Black colors, stripping of, 255 Ammonia, 81 Blankets, woolen, sulphuring of, 99 determination of, in water, 84 use ot, as a fire extinguishing agent, Bleaching and dyeing straw hats, 188-203 chamber, construction of a, 98 16 feathers, 157 Analysis of textile fabrics, 259-268 fluids, 55, 56 Aniline color stains, 75 bleaching straw with, 194, 195 colors, dyeing gloves with, 210-213 liquor, apparatus for preparing, 191- straw with, 201-203 193 stripping of, 254, 255 processes, 99105 Antibenzinpyrin, 6 Blonde-laces, washing of, 113-115 preparation of, 7, 8 Borax, 53, 54 Antimacassars, cleaning of, no, in Austrian turpentine, 10 Brown colors, stripping of, 255 Buckskin gloves, washing of, 207, 208 D AREGE garments, washing of, 96, 97 JJ Basic dyestuffs, application of, 233 Beer stains, 72 Benzene or benzol, 8, 9 Benzine, 4-8, 52 addition of soap to, 5, 6, 18 and other solvents, dangers of, in dry cleaningj 14-19 chemical constitution of, 5 classification of oleates soluble in, 6 deodori/ation of. 38, 39 discovery of the detergent powers of, i distilled, superiority of, 39, 40 distillers, 41-46 filtering of, 36 gelatinized, 65, 66 Hasselbach's method of clarifying, 38 ignition of, by electrical sparks, 17 manner of distinguishing, from ben- zol, 9 properties of, 4 purification of, 3646 by distillation, 39-46 with sulphuric acid, 37, 38 soaps, decomposition of, 7 solubility of, 7 CALICO, soap for the removal of stains from, 62 Caps, white cloth, cleaning of, 106 Carbon tetrachloride, 11-14, 52 advantages of, 12, 13 properties of, n storage of, 13, 14 Carbonate of soda, 82 , Carpets, chemical cleaning of, 35, 36 washing of, 122, 124 | Centrifugals, 28, 126 1 Ceresine stains, 67, 68 j Chamois gloves, washing of, 207 Chemical cleaning of carpels, 35, 36 value of, 2 examination of fibers, 261-268 or dry cleaning, 1-46 ' Cherry stains, 70 Chicken feathers, black on, 180-182 mordanting of, 180, 181 treatment of, with chlorine, 182 Chloride of lime, 55, 56 use of, for stripping, 257 Chlorinating, 165, 166 Chlorine, bleaching straw with, 191-194 (269) 2/0 INDEX. Chlorine combinations, determination of, Cotton, maroon on, 248, 249 in water, 84 navy-blue on, 250 w iter, 56 old gold on, 2 4y Chlorotorm, 50, 51 orange on, 249 Cincinnati hand extractor, 28, 29 pink on, 248 Citric acid, 56, 57, 81 plum on, 250 Cleaning agents, 4O-;8 and dyeing leathers, 155-187 sage-green on, 249, 250 salmon on, 249 gloves, 204-213 furs, skin rugs and mats, scarlet on, 248 sky blue on. 250 141-154 violet on, 250 feathers, 155-157 violet-blue on, 250 large ostrich feathers, 161, 162 yellow on, 249 ostnch feathers in bulk, 162 Cream-colored curtains, treatment of, 116 Cloaks, washing of, 89, 90 1 Cream gloss, i--8 Coat, cleaning a, 67 Curtain?, finishing of, 128, 129 pressing a, 132, 133 Coits, sta.im-board tor, 130 Coffee stains. 70, 71 Colored curtains, washing of, 117 Coloring matter, addition 01, to the dye bath, TOO Colois, freshening of, 96 original, colors which may be dyed on, 213, 216 stripping of. from garments and fab- rics, 254-258 Copper Main*, 217 Corsets, washing of, 94 Cotton and linen garments containing j-ite, dyeing of, 252, 253 and wool goods, mixed, black on, 244, mixed . blue-black on ,245 cornflower- blue on, 246 crimson on, 246 dark blue on, 245 brown on, 245 gnyon, 246 green on, 246 sage on, 247 drab on, 246 d> eing of, 244-247 orange on. 246 peacock green on, 247 sage brown on, 246, 247 scarlet on, 246 slate on, 246 black on, 251 blue on, 250 brown on, 250, 251 chestnut-brown on, 251 claret oiv, 248 cream on, 249 crimson-red on, 248 detection of, 267 in woolen fabrics, 268 fiber of. 259 garments, washing of, 93, 94 goid-biown on, 251 goods, dyeing of, 147-251 gray on. 251 green on, 249, 250 in linen, detection of, 267 washing of, 115-117 Cyanide of potassium, use of, for strip- ping, 256 T)EODORIZATION of benzine, 38, 39 -'-' Direct dyes, dyeing cotton with, 247, 248 Distillation, purification of benzine by, Dog skins, 141 Draining, ve.-,-el for, 24 Dressing for ladies' garments, 133, 134 white embroideries, 128 of feathers, 156 Dressings, 136-138 Dry-cleaning, advantages of, 3, 4 apparatus for, 22 arrangements for working on a larger scale, 25-27 articles less suitable for, 19 not si-inble for, 19 suitable lor, 19 cleaning process in, 19-36 dangers ot benzine and other solvents in, 14-19 liquids available lor, 3, 4 preparation of garments for, 20, process of, in smaller establish- ments, 22-24 real definition of, 2, 3 Drying cylinder, 135 drum,i86 table, 135 Duck feathers, dyeing of, 183 Dust coats cleaning of, 58 removal of, from garments, 20 stains. 63 Dyeing cotton and linen garments con- taining jute, 252, 253 goods, 247-251 fancy feathers, 177-185 feathers. 157-187 kid gloves, 208-213 mixed cotton and wool goods, 244-247 ost ich feathers, 161-177 silks, 216 Slr;.w, 198-203 wool and silk fabrics, 229-231 INI Dyeing woolen garments and fabrics, 232- 244 Dyes auing equally on wool and silk, 229,230 bleeding of, 112 for dyeing jute, 252 having a stronger affinity for wool, 230 EAU de Javelle, 55 . preparation of, ic8, 109 Electrical sparks, ignition of benzine by, Embroideries, colored, cleaning of, 107- finishing of, 127, 128 on linen, washing of, 113-115 white, dressing for, 128 English scouring fluid, 62 Ether, 4 Q, so Etheiiztd magnesia, 66 >EX. 2/1 Garments, constitution of stains in, 3 cotton and linen, containing jute, dyeing of, 252, 253 damp places in, 21 dark, washing of, 88-90 ladies', finishing of, 133-136 washing of, 92-97 lined, removing stains from, 58 men's, finishing of, 129-133 piessmg ol, 132, 133 wet-washing ot, 87-92 preparation of, for dry-cleaning, 20, 21 removing dust from, 20 souring of. 88, 89 testing of, for re-dyeing, 214 woolen, preparation ot, for dyeing, 235. 236 sorting 01, 235 washing ol, 235, 236 Gasoline, danger iu the use of, 15 Gauntlets, cleaning of, 208 Gelatine stains, 72 Gelatinized benzine, 65, 66 German turpentine, 10 Gloria, dyeing ol, 229-231 Gloss starch, 137, 138 Gloves, black on, 209 blue on, 21 1, 212 brown on, 209, 210, 212 FAT bath for gloves, 206 Feathers, bleaching of, 157 cleaning and dyeing of, 155-187 dyed, drying ,>f, 185-187 dyeing ol, 157-177 fancy, decolorizing of, 178, 179 definition ol, 177 freeing tiom lat, 179 washing ol, 178 white, treatment of, 179, 180 natural white, re-whitening of, 156, 157 f purifying of, 155, 156 utensils used in dyeing, 158, 159 Felt hats, cleaning of, ro6 fat bath lor, 206 gray on, 210 morocco-red on, 210 red on, 2ir restoring lustre lo, 204 silk, washing of, 107 violet on, 211 yellow on, 212 Glue stains, 72 Glycerine, 53 Goat skins, 141 Gold galloons, cleaning of, 119, 120 laces, washing ol, 118, 119 Goose leathers, dyeing of, 183 Grass stains, 72 Grease stains, 64, 65 smaller, 72 upon the backs of garments,68 very old, 67 Greasy shine, 75 Green nut stains, 72, 73 Grouvelle's bleaching fluid, 56 Gypsum, determination of, in water, 84 TTALF-WOOL garments, washing of, Handkerchiefs, white silk, washing ol, 107 Hardness of water, determination ol, 85, Hasselbach's method of clarifying ben- zine, 38 Hemp, fiber of, 6o Hydrochloric acid, 57, 80 Hydro-extractors, 28, 126 microscopical examination ol, 259-261 textile, basis of, 261 Fichus, woolen, finishing of, 126, 127 Filtering benzine, 36 Finishing cleaned fabrics, 125-140 Fire, means of extinguishing, 16 -proofing fabrics, 140 Flannel undershirts, washing of, 106 Flax, fibre oi, 259, 260 French earth, 60 Fruit stains, 69 Furs, cleaning and dyeing of, 141-154 examination ol, 141 Fusel oil, 53 f< ALLOONS, gold and silver, washing * Of, lig, 120 Garment dyeing, 214-253 -dyers, directions for the removal of stains for, 80-82 dressings for, 136-138 Garments and fabrics, stripping colors from, 254-258 woolen, dyeing of, 232-244 2/2 INDEX. Hydrogen peroxide, bleaching with, 100- Mordant dyes, dyeing with, 234, 235 Mordants, 234 straw with, 197 Morning dresses, cleaning of, 58 preservatives tor, 102 Mottled soaos. 82 use of, for stripping, 256, Hypochlorites, bleaching straw with, 194, "VTITRATE of silver stains, 75 -L' Nitric acid, detection ot, in water, Hyposulphite of sodium, 54, 55 84,85 stains, 73 INK stains, 75-78 removal of, from kid gloves, 205 Iron, detection of, in water, 85 Iron stains, 78 OLEATES, acid, water-absorbing power of, 6 soluble in benzine, classification of, 6 TUDLIN, M., discovery of the deter- J gent poweis of benzine by, I Jute, bleaching of, 104, 105 detection of, 267 dyeing cotton and linen garments Ostrich feathers, admiral on, 171 h h 68 black on, 165-167 bordered, 174-177 bronze on, 167, 168 buton d'or on, 169 containing, 252, 253 dyes for, 252 fiber of, 260 coq roche on, 169 cream on, 168 KETTLE stains, 217 Kid gloves, cleaning of. 204-207 dyeing of, 208-213 Kingfisher skins, dyeing of, 184 Kopp's method of determining vegetable fibers in wool and silk tissue, 264 dark mirror, light border on, decolorizing of, 162, 163 dull, fiery tones on, 171 dyeing of, 161-177 etna on, 171 freeing from grease, 163, 164 gold on, 169, 170 LACES, finishing of, 127, 128 bronze on, 168 gold, washing of, 118, 119 gray-blue on, 172 silk, washing of, 118, 119 silver, washing of, 118, 119 green-blue on, 172 bronze on, 167, 168 washing of, 113-115 heliotrope on, 109 Lactophenine, 102 in bulk, cleaning of, 162 Ladies' gaiments, finishing of, 133-136 ivory on, 168 washing of, 92-97 large, cleaning of, 161, 162 Lard stains, 67, 68 light mirror, dark border on, Laundrymen, dressings for, 136-138 Leopard skins, 141 , 174, 175 loutre on, 172 Liebig, remark by, i maize on, 168 Lime, chloride of, 55, 56 mandarin on, 169 detection of, in water, 85 maroon on, 172 stains, 73 navy on, 171 Linen, detection of, 267 old gold on, 169, 170 cotton in, 267 olive on, 171 Lion skins, 141 bron/e on, 168 Lustre garments, washing of, 96, 97 ombre on, 172-174 Lye stains, 73 pale blue on, 169 parme on, 169 MAGNESIA, benzinized, 65 etherized, 66 rose on, 168 Magpie skins, dyeing of, 184 russe on, 171, 172 Man's coat, pressing a, 132, 133 salmon on, 168 Mats, cleaning and dyeing of, 141-154 Men's garments, finishing ot, 129133 shading box lor dyeing, 173 tricolored, 172-174 pressing of, 132, 133 removal of greasy shine from, vesuve on, 171 vieux rose on, 171 75 white, treatment of, 164 wet washing of, 87-92 Overcoats, washing of, 89, 90 Microscopical examination of fibers, 259- Oxalic acid, 57, 81 201 Ox-gall, 57, 58, 82 Milk stains, 70, 71 preservation of, 61 INDEX. 273 PAINT stains, 68 Pantaloons, pressing of, 133 steam-board for, 130 Paraffiae stains, 67, 68 Parasols, cleaning of, 120-122 Parrot leathers, dyeing of, 184 Peacock feathers, dyeing of, 183 Peroxides, bleaching with, 100-104 Perspiration stains, 73-75 Petroleum spirit, 4-8 Phenacetine, 102 Pigeon feathers, dyeing of, 183 Plaster of Paris, 59 Plush articles, finishing of, 128, 129 removal of stains in, 58 Polar bear skins, 141 Potassium acid oxalate of, 57 cyanide, use of, for stripping, 256 permanganate, bleaching with, 99,100 use of, for stripping, 257 Puff irons, 135. 136 Punch stains, 72 Purification of benzine, 3646 QUILLAIA bark, extraction of, 91 washing men's clothes with, 90-92 T> A B BIT skins, 141 -L* Rain-coats, cleaning of. 58 Ramsey's bleaching fluid, 56 Raw silk garments, washing of, 96 Red wine stains, 70 Resin stains, 68, 69 Richter, M., discovery of antibenzin- pyrin by, 6 Rug, restoring the dressing of a, 35 Russian turpentine, 10 Rust stains, 78 removal of, from kid gloves, 205 SALT of sorrel, 57 Satin, cleaning of, 64 Scarfs, ladies' washing of, no Schweitzer's reagent, 262 Schwemmer's scouring fluid, 63 Scouring fluids, 62, 63 pencils, 62, 63 table, 29 water, 58, 59 Seal skins, 141 Shading box, 173 Shawls, silk, finishing of, 127 woolen, finishing of, 126, 127 Sheepskins, bleaching of, 149 " Shot " effects, production of, 231 Silk, alkaline blue on, 224 and wool, dyes which act equally on, 229, 230 ripping mixtures of. 256 articles, light colored, w 105. 106 washing of, ?4 bleaching of, 102-104 Bordeaux red on, 221, 222 bright green on, 226 18 Silk, bright scarlets on, 222 carail on. 223 chemical examination of, 262, 263 cherry red on, 222 ciel on, 223 cinnamon-brown on, 227 cleaning of. 64 cloths, colored washing of, 107 coffee-brown on, 220, 221 cream on, 223 crimson on, 222 dark brown on, 220 deeper bluish-reds on, 222 detection of, 267 dull fiery tones on, 226 i yellow-green on, 227 embroideries, cleaning of, 107-109 fabrics, washing of, 97-100 fancy colors and intermediate tones on, 228, 229 fiber of, 260 gloves, washing of, 107 goods, cleaning and stripping of, 217 dry-cleaning of, 30 testing of, for strength, 217 gray on, 225 green on, 226 greenish-yellow on, 228 gold on, 221 handkerchiefs, washing of, 107 heliotrope on, 224, 225 in wool, detection of 265, 266 laces, black, finishing of, 128 washing of, 118, 119 mauve on, 228 moss-green on, 227 navy-blue on, 224 olive on, 227 orange on, 228 pale blue on, 223 pea-green on. 226 prune on, 225 rose color on, 223 salmon rose on, 223 scarlet on, 222 shawls, washing of, no silver gray on, 225 soap for the removing o< stains from, 61 stockings, washing of, 107 stripping of, 255, 256 tobacco-brown on, 221 vesuve on . 226 wood-gray on, 225, 226 yellow on, 227 1 Silks, colored, cleaning of, 31 Silver galloons, washing of, 119, '*> laces, washing of, 118, 119 Size, removal of, from .otton goods, 247 Skin rugs, cleaning and dyeing of, i4i-'54 of, Skins, black on, 149, 151- '5 2 brown on, 149, 152, '53 chestnut on, 153 cleaned and dyeH, drying of, 154 dyeing of, with the L rsols, 149, 15 golden on, 154 2/4 INDEX. Skins, gray on, 149 Straw hats, cleaning of, 188, 189 green on. 154 Havanu-brown on, 200 kingfishers', dyeing of, 184 maroon on, 201 magpies', dyeing ot, 184 medium brown on, 200 maroon on, 154 orange on, 154 myrtle green on, 203 preparation of for bleaching, 189, 190 restoration of, 143 silver-gray on, 199, 203 russet on, 153 tobacco-brown on, 202 scarlet on, 154 violet on, 201 silver gray on, 154 Smyrna rugs, chemical cleaning of, 35 Soap, addition of, to benzine, 5, 6, 18 for the removal of all kinds of stains,6i stains from calico, yellow on, 201 Stripping colors from garments and fab- rics, 254-258 Sugar stains, 72 Sulphur stains, 99 62 Sulphuric acid, 80 stains from silk, 61 purification of benzine with, wine and vinegar stains, 60, 61 Sulphurous acid/8o, 81 mottled, 82 bleaching straw with, 195, soft potash, 81 196 use of, for removing stains, 48, 49 Soda, carbonate of, 82 Sodium hyposulphite, 54, 55 Suede gloves, cleaning of, 208 Sweaters, washing of, 106 use of, for stripping, 257, 258 peroxide, bleaching with, 102-104, 179 fFABLE covers, small, washing of, 109, Soft potash soap. 82 giving best means for removing Sorrel, salt of, 57 stains, 79 .Soup stains. 72 Talcum powder, 59 Souring, 88, 89 Tallow stains, 67, 68 Squirrel skins, 141 Tampion, 22 Stains, constitution of, 3 Tannin stains, 72, 73 directions for the removal of, for the Tar stains, 68, 69 garment-dyer, 80-82 Tartaric acid, 56 nature of, 47 Terre de Sauniere, 60 of unknown derivation, 63 Tetrachlorornethane, 11-14 operation of removing, 59 removing of, 47-82 Textile fabrics, analysis of, 259-268 Tiger skins, 141 rings formed in removing, 60 Tin salt, 55 soap for the removal of all kinds of, Turkey leathers, dveing of, 182, 183 61 Turpentine, 9-11 table giving best means of removing, properties of, 10 79 varieties of, 10 tools for the removal of, 48 Tussah silk, detection of, 267 Stannous chloride, 55 fiber of, 260 Starch, gloss, 137, 138 preparation for curtains, 129 Steam, 80 URINE stains, 92 Ursols, dyeing skins with, 149, 150 boards, 129, 130 -generators, 40 VARNISH stains, 68 table, 131 V Veils, washing of, 117, 118 Steamers for velvet, 34, 35 Steaming board, 33 Velvet, genuine, dyeing of, 229 goods, real, cleaning and renovating Stearin stains, 69 of, 32-35 Stills, benzine, 41-46 removal of stains in, 58 Stockings, white silk, washing of, 107 steamers, 34, 35 Straw, beige on, 202 steaming of, 33, 34 black on, 198, 199 Vineear stains soao for the removal of bleaching of, 189-197 60, 61 ' brown on, 200 cardinal on, 203 catechu-brown on, 200, 201 "WfAGON grease stains, 68, 69 ' Waistcoats, pressing of, 133 chestnut-brown on, 199 washing of, 89 dark green on, 203 Washing, 27-32 marine blue on, 203 gendarme blue on, 202, 203 ' hats, bleaching and dyeing of, 188-203 ladies' garments, 92-97 machine, hand-power, 27 power-driven, 25-27 INDEX. 275 Water, 83-87 agents for the absorption of, 59, 60 hard, softening of, 86 hardness of, 85, 86 importance of, in wet-cleaning, 83 Wool, dyeing of, with acid dyes, 223 basic dyestuffs, 233 mordant dyes, 234, 235 dyes having a stronger affinity for, 230 -proofing fabrics, 138, 139 emerald green on, 241 purification and testing of, 84-87 removal of, from wet fabrics, 125, 126 fabrics, white, washing of, 97-100 fiber oi, 260, 261 Wax stains, 67, 68, 69 gray on, 238 Wet-cleaning, 83-124 green on, 241 importance of pure and soft golden-yellow on, 240 water in, 83 in silk, detection of, 265, 266 Wet-washing men's garments, 87-92 White goods, dry-cleaning of, 30, 31 logwood black on, 238 maroon on, 239 removal of stains from, 48, 49 mauve on, 243 Whortleberry stains, 70 medium-green on, 241 Wilson's bleaching fluid, 56 navy-blue on, 242 Wine stains, 70, 72 olive-brown on, 243 soap for the removal of, 60, 61 olive-green on, 241 vinegar stains, 73 Wool and silk, dyes which act equally on, 229, 230 orange on, 240 pale orange on, 240 peacock-blue on, 242 embroideries, cleaning of, pearl-gray on, 238 109 ponceau on, 239 stripping mixtures of, 256 1 reddish orange on, 240 tissue, determination of sage-green on, 241 vegetable fibers in, 263, scarlet on, 239 264 seal on, 243 articles, light colored, washing of, silvM gray on, 238 105, 1 06 terracotta-red on, 239 black on, 236-238 violet on, 242, 243 blue on, 241, 242 . j black on, 237 blue-black on, 236, 237, 238, 242 walnut on, 243, 244 Bordeaux red on, 239, 240 yellow on, 240 bottle-green on, 241 brown on, 243 bright green on, 241 orange on, 240 Woolen cloth, detection of cotton in, 267 fabrics, detection of cotton in, 268 red on, 240 garments and fabrics, dyeing of, 232- yellow on, 240 brown on, 243, 244 244 preparation of, for dyeing, 235, black on, 237 chemical examination of, 262 cherry red on, 239 chromotrop black on, 238 claret red on, 240 washing of, 95, 96 goods, cleaning of, 64 dry-cleaning of, 30 undergarments, washing of, 106 crimson on, 239 Woolens, stripping of, 256, 257 dark gray on, 238 Working room, lighting of, 14 dead black on, 237 deep red on, 239 yOLK of egg, 82 deep yellow on, 240 diamond black on, 227 OF ical and {Scientific Boolp PUBLISHED BY HENRY CAREY BAIRD & Co. INDUSTRIAL PUBLISHERS, BOOKSELLERS AND IMPORTERS. 810 Walnut Street, Philadelphia. *S- Any of the Books comprised in this Catalogue will he sent hy mail.frwrf postage, to any address in the world, at the publication prices, IS" A Descriptive Catalogue, 90 pages, 8vo., will he sent free and free of postag% to any one in any part of the world, who will furnish his address. V Where not otherwise stated, all of the Books in this Catalogue are bouid in muslin, AMATEUR MECHANICS' WORKSHOP: A treatise containing plain and concise directions for the manipula- tion of Wood and Metals, including Casting, Forging, Brazing, Soldering and Carpentry. By the author of the " Lathe and 111 Uses." Seventh edition. Illustrated. STO. . . . $2.54 ANDES. Animal Fats and Oils: Their Practical Production, Purification and Uses; their Properties Falsification and Examination. 62 illustrations. 8vo. . $4.00 ANDES. 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Re- written and arranged with additional matter and plates, selections from and examples of the most useful and generally employed mechanism of the day. By WILLIAM JOHNSON, Assoc. Inst. C. E. Illustrated by fifty folio steel plates, and fifty wood-cuts. A new edition, 410,, cloth. . #6.00 ARMSTRONG. The Construction and Management of Steam Boilers : By R. ARMSTRONG, C. E. With an Appendix by ROBERT MALLET, C. E., F. R. S. Seventh Edition. Illustrated, i vol. I2mo. .60 ARROWSMITH. The Paper-Hanger's Companion: Comprising Tools, Pastes, Preparatory Work ; Selection and Hanging of Wall- Papers ; Distemper Painting and Cornice-Tinting ; Stencil Work ; Replacing Sash-Cord and Broken Window Panes ; and Useful Wrinkles and Receipts, By JAMES ARROWSMITH. A New, Thoroughly Revised, and Much Enlarged Edition. Illustrated by 25 engravings, 162 pages. (1905) .... $1.00 ASHTON. The Theory and Practice of the Art of Designing Fancy Cotton and Woollen Cloths from Sample : Giving full instructions for reducing drafts, as well as the methods of spooling and making out harness for cross drafts and finding any re- quired reed; with calculations and tables of yarn. By FREDERIC T. ASHTON, Designer, West Pittsfield, Mass. With fifty-two illustrations. One vol. folio #5-O ASKINSON. Perfumes and their Preparation : A Comprehensive Treatise on Perfumery, containing Complete Directions for Making Handkerchief Perfumes, Smelling-Salts, Sachets, Fumigating Pastils ; Preparations for the Care of the Skin, the Mouth, the Hair; Cosmetics, Hair Dyes, and other Toilet Articles. By G. W. ASKINSON. Translated from the German by IsiDOR FURST. Revised by CHARLES RICE. 32 Illustrations. 8vo. #3.00 BRQNGNIART. Coloring and Decoration of Ceramic Ware. 8vc. # 2 -5 BAIRD. The American Cotton Spinner, and Manager's and Carder's Guide: A Practical Treatise on Cotton Spinning ; giving the Dimensions and Speed of Machinery, Draught and Twist Calculations, etc. ; with notices of recent Improvements : together with Rules and Examples ror making changes in the sizes and numbers of Roving and Yarn. Compiled from the papers of the late ROBERT H. BAIRD. i2mo. ^ HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.'S CATALOGUE. 3 BAKER. Long-Span Railway Bridges : Comprising Investigations of the Comparative Theoretical and Practical Advantages of the various Adopted or Proposed Type Systems of Construction ; with numerous Formulae and Tables. By B. BAKER. i2mo $1.00 BRANNT. A Practical Treatise on Distillation and Rec- tification of Alcohol : Comprising Raw Materials ; Production of Malt, Preparation of Mashes and of Yeast ; Fermentation ; Distillation and Rectification and Purification of Alcohol ; Preparation of Alcoholic Liquors, Liqueurs, Cordials, Bitters, Fruit Essences, Vinegar, etc. ; Examina- tion of Materials for the Preparation of Malt as well as of the Malt itself; Examination of Mashes before and after Fermentation ; Alco- holometry, with Numerous Comprehensive Tables ; and an Appendix on the Manufacture of Compressed Yeast and the Examination of Alcohol and Alcoholic Liquors for Fusel Oil and other Impurities. By WILLIAM T. BRANNT, Editor of " The Techno-Chemical Receipt Book." Second Edition. Entirely Rewritten. Illustrated by 105 engravings. 460 pages, 8vo. (Dec., 1903) . . . $4.00 BARR. A Practical Treatise on the Combustion of Coal : Including descriptions of various mechanical devices for the Eco- nomic Generation of Heat by the Combustion of Fuel, whether solid, liquid or gaseous. 8vo. .... $2.50 BARR. A Practical Treatise on High Pressure Steam Boilers: Including Results of Recent Experimental Tests of Boiler Materials, together with a description of Approved Safety Apparatus, Steam Pumps, Injectors and Economizers in actual use. By WM. M. BARR. 204 Illustrations. 8vo $3-O BAUERMAN. A Treatise on the Metallurgy of Iron : Containing Outlines of the History of Iron Manufacture, Methods of Assay, and Analysis of Iron Ores, Processes of Manufacture of Iron and Steel, etc., etc. By H. BAUERMAN, F. G. S., Associate of the Royal School of Mines. Fifth Edition, Revised and Enlarged. Illustrated with numerous Wood Engravings from Drawings by J. B. JORDAN. I2mo, $2.0 BRANNT. The Metallic Alloys : A Practical Guide For the Manufacture of all kinds of Alloys, Amalgams, and Solders, used by Metal-Workers : together with their Chemical and Physical Properties and their Application in the Arts and the Industries ; with an Appendix on the Coloring of Alloys and the Recovery of Waste Metals. By WILLIAM T. BRANNT. 34 Engravings. A New, R< vised, and Enlarged Edition. 554 pages. 8vo. . . #4-5 BEANS. A Treatise on Railway Curves and Location ol Railroads : By E. W. BEANS, C. E. Illustrated. I2mo. Tucks. . 1.50 HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.'S CATALOGUE. BELL. Carpentry Made Easy: Or, The Science and Art of Framing on a New and Improved System. With Specific Instructions for Building Balloon Frames, Barn Frames, Mill Frames, Warehouses, Church Spires, etc. Comprising also a System of Bridge Building, with Bills, Estimates of Cost, and valuable Tables. Illustrated by forty-four plates, comprising nearly 200 figures. By WILLIAM E. 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The American Practical Dyers' Companion : Comprising a Description of the Principal Dye- Stuffs and Chemicals used in Dyeing, their Natures and Uses ; Mordants and How Made ; with the best American, English, French and German processes for Bleaching and Dyeing Silk, Wool, Cotton, Linen, Flannel, Felt, Dress Goods, Mixed and Hosiery Yarns, Feathers, Grass, Felt, Fur, Wool, and Straw Hats, Jute Yarn, Vegetable Ivory, Mats, Skins, Furs, Leather, etc., etc. By Wood Aniline, and other Processes, together with Remarks on Finishing Agents, and instructions in the Finishing of Fabrics, Substitutes for Indigo, Water-Proofing of Materials, Tests and Purification of Water, Manufacture of Aniline and other New Dye Wares, Harmonizing Colors, etc., etc. ; embrac- ing in all over 800 Receipts for Colors and Shades, accompanied by 170 Dyed Samples of Raw Materials and Fabrics. By F. J. BIRD, Practical Dyer, Author of " The Dyers' Hand-Book." 8vo. $7.50 HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.'S CATALOGUE, BLINN. A Practical Workshop Companion for Tin, Sheet- Iron, and Copper-plate Workers : Containing Rules Tor describing various kinds of Patterns used by Ti, Sheet-Iron and Copper-plate Workers; Practical Geometry; Mensuration of Surfaces and Solids ; Tables of the Weights of Metals, Lead-pipe, etc.; Tables of Areas and Circumferencei of Circles ; Japan, Varnishes, Lackers, Cements, Compositions, etc., etc. By LEROY J. BLINN, Master Mechanic. With One Hundred and Seventy Illustrations. I2mo $2-59 BOOTH. Marble Worker's Manual: ^ Containing Practical Information respecting Marbles in general, theit Cutting, Working and Polishing ; Veneering of Marble ; Mosaics ; Composition and Use of Artificial Marble, Stuccos, Cements, Receipts, Secrets, etc., etc. Translated from the French by M. L. BOOTH. With an Appendix concerning American Marbles. I2mo., cloth BRANNT. A Practical Treatise on Animal and Vegetablf Fats and Oils : Comprising both Fixed and Volatile Oils, their Physical and Chem- ical Properties and Uses, the Manner of Extracting and Refining them, and Practical Rules for Testing them ; as well as the Manufac- ture of Artificial Butter and Lubricants, etc., with lists of American Patents relating to the Extraction, Rendering, Refining, Decomposing, and Bleaching of Fats and Oils. By WILLIAM T. BRANNT, Editor of the " Techno-Chemical Receipt Book." Second Edition, Revised and in a great part Rewritten. Illustrated by 302 Engravings. In Two Volumes. 1304 pp. 8vo *"* $10.00 BRANNT. A Practical Treatise on the Manufacture of Soap and Candles : Based upon the most Recent Experiences in the Practice and Science; comprising the Chemistry, Raw Materials, Machinery, and Utensils and Various Processes of Manufacture, including a great variety of formulas. Edited chiefly from the German of Dr. C. Deite, A. Engelhardt, Dr. C. Schaedler and others ; with additions and list? of American Patents relating to these subjects. By WM. T. BRANNT. Illustrated by 163 engravings. 677 pages. 8vo. . . 12.50 BRANNT. India Rubber, Gutta-Percha and Balata : - Occurrence, Geographical Distribution, and Cultivation, Obtaining and Preparing the Raw Materials, Modes of Working and Utilizing them, Including Washing, Maceration, Mixing, Vulcanizing, Rubber and Gutta-Percha Compounds, Utilization of Waste, etc. By YML IAM T. BRANNT. Illustrated. i2mo. (1900.) . - #3-oo HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.'S CATALOGUE. BRANNT WAHL. The Techno-Chemical Receipt Book: Containing several thousand Receipts covering the latest, most im- portant, and most useful discoveries in Chemical Technology, and their Practical Application in the Arts and the Industries. Edited chiefly from the German of Drs. Winckler, Eisner, Heintze, Mier- zinski, Jacobsen, Roller and Heinzerling, with additions by WM. T. BRANNT and WM. H. WAHL, Ph. D. 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Illustrated by 32 engravings. 8vo $7-5 BYRNE. Hand-Book for the Artisan, Mechanic, and Engi- neer : Comprising the Grinding and Sharpening of Cutting Tools, Abrasive Processes, Lapidary Work, Gem and Glass Engraving, Varnishing and Lackering, Apparatus, Materials and Processes for Grinding and HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.'S CATALOGUE. Polishing, etc. By OLIVER BYRNE. Illustrated by 185 wood en- gravings. 8vo. ........ 5.00 3YRNE. Pocket-Book for Railroad and Civil Engineers : Containing New, Exact and Concise Methods for Laying out Railroad Curves, Switches, Frog Angles and Crossings ; the Staking out of work ; Levelling ; the Calculation of Cuttings : Embankments ; Earth- work, etc. By OLIVER BYRNE. i8mo., full bound, pocket-book form BYRNE. Tne Practical Metal-Worker's Assistant : Comprising Metallurgic Chemistry ; the Arts of Working all Metals and Alloys; Forging of Iron and Steel ; Hardening and Tempering; Melting and Mixing; Casting and Founding ; Works in Sheet Metal; the Processes Dependent on the Ductility of the Metals; Soldering; and the most Improved Processes and Tools employed by Metal- workers. With the Application of the Art of Electro-Metallurgy to Manufacturing Processes; collected from Original Sources, and from the works of Holtzapffel, Bergeron, Leupold, Plumier, Napier, Scoffem, Clay, Fairbairn and others. By OLIVER BYRNE. A new, revised and improved edition, to which is added an Appendix, con- taining The Manufacture of Russian Sheet-Iron. By JOHN PERCY, M. D., F. R. S. The Manufacture of Malleable Iron Castings, and Improvements in Bessemer Steel. By A. A. FESQUET, Chemist and Engineer. With over Six Hundred Engravings, Illustrating every Branch of the Subject. 8vo #5-0 BYRNE. The Practical Model Calculator: For the Engineer, Mechanic, Manufacturer of Engine Work, Narai Archkect, Miner and Millwright. By OLIVER BYRNE. 8vo., nearly 600 pages ... . . ... (Scarce.) CABINET MAKER'S ALBUM OF FURNITURE'. Comprising a Collection of Designs for various Styles of Furniture. Illustrated by Forty-eight Large and Beautifully Engraved Plates. Oblong, 8vo ' . . . #1.50 CALLINGHAM. Sign Writing and Glass Embossing: A Complete Practical Illustrated Manual of the Art. By JAMES CALLINGHAM. To which are added Numerous Alphabets and the Art of Letter Painting Made Easy. By JAMES C. BADENOCH. 258 pages. i2tno. $'-5 CAM PIN. A Practical Treatise on Mechanical Engineering: Comprising Metallurgy, Moulding, Casting, Forging, Tools, Work, shop Machinery, Mechanical Manipulation, Manufacture of Steam- Engines, etc. With an Appendix on the Analysis of Iron and Iron Ores. By FFANCIS CAMPIN, C. E. 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The Cotton Yarn Spinner: Showing how the Preparation should be arranged for Different Counts of Yarns by a System more uniform than has hitherto been practiced; by having a Standard Schedule from which we make all our Changes. By RICHARD CROSS. 122 pp. i2tno. . 75 CRISTIANI. A Technical Treatise on Soap and Candles: With a Glance at the Industry of Fats and Oils. By R. S. CRIS- TIANI, Chemist. Author of " Perfumery and Kindred Arts." Illus- trated by 176 engravings. 581 pages, 8vo. $15.00 COURTNEY. The Boiler Maker's Assistant in Drawing, Templating, and Calculating Boiler Work and Tank Work, etc. Revised by D. K. CLARK. 102 ills. Fifth edition. . . 80 COURTNEY. The Boiler Maker's Ready Reckoner: With Examples of Practical Geometry and Templating. Revised by D. K. CLARK, C. E. 37 illustrations. Fifth edition. . |i.6o DAVIDSON. A Practical Manual of House Painting, Grain- ing, Marbling, and Sign- Writing: Containing full information on the processes of House Painting in Oil and Distemper, the Formation of Letters and Practice of Sign- Writing, the Principles of Decorative Art, a Course of Elementary Drawing for House Painters, Writers, etc., and a Collection of Useful Receipts. With nine colored illustrations of Woods and Marbles, and numerous wood engravings. By ELLIS A. DAVIDSON. 121110. $2.00 DAVIES. A Treatise on Earthy and Other Minerals and Mining: By D. C. DAVIES, F. G. S., Mining Engineer, etc. Illustrated by 76 Engravings. I2mo $S- DAVIES. A Treatise on Metalliferous Minerals and Mining: By D. C. DAVIES, F. G. S., Mining Engineer, Examiner of Mines, Quarries and Collieries. Illustrated by 148 engravings of Geological Formations, Mining Operations and Machineiy, drawn from the practice of all parts of the world. Fifth Edition, thoroughly Revised and much Enlarged by his son, E. Henry Davies. I2mo., 524 pages *5-o DAVIES. A Treatise on Slate and Slate Quarrying: Scientific, Practical and Commercial. By D. C. DAVIES, F. G. S., Mining Engineer, etc. With numerous illustrations and folding plates. ;2mo. $l.2Q DAVIS. A Practical Treatise on the Manufacture of Brick, Tiles and Terra-Cotta : Including Stiff Clay, Dry Clay, Hand Made, Pressed or Front, and Roadway Paving Brick, Enamelled Brick, with Glazes and Colors, Fire Brick and ^Blocks. Silica Brick, Carbon Brick, Glass Pots, Re- 10 HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.'S CATALOGS. torts, Architectural Terra-Cotta, Sewer Pipe, Drain Tile, Glazed and Unglazed Roofing Tile, Art Tile, Mosaics, and Imitation of Intarsia or Inlaid Surfaces. Comprising every product of Clay employed in Architecture, Engineering, and the Blast Furnace. 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The Practical Horseshoer: Being a Collection of Articles on Horseshoeing in all its Branches which have appeared from time to time in the columns of ' 1 tie Blacksmith and Wheelwright," etc. Compiled and edited by M. T. RICHARDSON. 1 74 illustrations. . . . . . jfi.oo ROPER. Instructions and Suggestions for Engineers and Firemen : By STEPHEN ROPER, Engineer. i8mo. Morocco . $2.00 ROPER. The Steam Boiler: Its Care and Management: By STEPHEN ROPER, Engineer. I2mo., tuck, gilt edges. $2.00 ROPER. The Young Engineer's Own Book: Containing an Explanation of the Principle and Theories on which the Steam Engine as a Prime Mover is Based. By STEPHEN ROPER. Engineer. 1 60 illustrations, 363 pages. i8mo., tuck . $2.50 ROSE. Modern Steam- Engines: An Elementary Treatise upon the Steam-Engine, written in Plain language ; for Use in the Workshop as well as in the Drawing Office. Giving Full Explanation j of the Construction of Modern Steam. Engines : Including Diagrams showing their Actual operation. To- gether with Complete but Simple Explanations of the operations of Various Kinds of Valves, Valve Motions, and Link Motions, etc., thereby Enabling the Ordinary Engineer to clearly Understand the Principles Involved in their Construction and Use, and to Plot out their Movements upon the Drawing Board. By JOSHUA ROSE. M. E. Illustrated by 422 engravings. Revised. 358 pp. . 56.00 ROSE. Steam Boilers: A Practical Treatise on Boiler Construction and Examination, for the Use of Practical Boiler Makers, Boiler Users, and Inspectors; and embracing in plain figures all the calculations necessary in Designing or Classifying Steam Boilers. By JOSHUA ROSE, M. E. Illustrated by 73 engravings. 250 pages. 8vo $2.^0 6CHRIBER. The Complete Carriage and Wagon Painter: A Concise Compendium of the Art of Painting Carriages, Wagers, and Sleighs, embracing Full Directions in all the Various Branches, including Lettering, Scrolling, Ornamenting, Striping, Varnishing, and Coloring, with numerous Recipes for Mixing Colon. 73 Illus- trations. 177 pp. I2mo THE LIBRARY UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA Santa Barbara THIS BOOK IS DUE ON THE LAST DATE STAMPED BELOW. IOOM 11/86 Series 9482 X s A A 000206398 o 3 1205 00948 0474 i " * 3 o o I nc UDicARV OF Cf CAllfORNIA o KUIP o THE UN o i MIA BARBARA THE ll&RARV Of