^fe /. -J BANCROFT LIBRARY o THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA DON! -lOMPASY, CAPT. DONNAVAN. Engraved by Hitchcock, from a daguerreotype ! : T" Mexican Opinion of Yankees. Buildings at Zacatecas. Customs. Merchants* Shops. Business. Auction Sales. Petty Thieves and their Punishment. Gambling. Lotteries. Sunday Entertainments. Chi/rches. Cathedral and its Ornaments. Praying for a Husband. Bull Fights. Death of a Picadore. Cock Fighting. Extent of Silver Mines. Gold Dust. Natural Cave. Geo logical Specimens. Iron, Copper, and Coal Mines. Garden of Don Alonzo Gomeres. Huaco Plant, its Appearance and Discovery. Manufactures in the City. Politics. Jose Maria Lafragua. Government. Cruelties of Santa Anna. Barbarous Execution of a Young Female. Page 52. CHAPTER VIII. Impending Difficulties. Santa Anna at San Luis Potosi. Priests Heading Guerilla Parties. Arrival of a Detachment from Santa Anna's Army. Re captured by the Mexicans. Arrest of Citizens of Zacatecas. March to San Luis Potosi. Mexican Soldiers and their Manner of Enlisting. City and Prison of San Luis Potosi. Execution. Mode of Inflicting Capital Punish ment. Invitation to join the Mexican Army. Our Indignant Refusal. De parture for Acapulco. Estate of Jorol. Dolores. City and Churches of Guanajuato. Page 64. CHAPTER IX. Arrival at Valladolid. Curiosity of the Citizens. A French Publisher. His History. Another Sentence of Death. Negotiation for our Release. "Bar gain and Intrigue." Sold into Slavery. Mexican Character. Our Price. Dr. Barry. A Mexican Printing Office. Spanish Printers. El Republicano. Support and Character of Mexican Newspapers. Page 69. CHAPTER X. -!>;* . i ,v>?'>iloM Is !fr/ :;"!< . f 91 City of Valladolid. Climate and Productions. Volcano of Jorullo. New- Theory of the Gulf Stream. Christmas. Buildings in the City. Customs of the Inhabitants. Matrimonial Intrigues. Music. Governor of Mechoa- can, and his Plan of Warfare. Ignorance of a Mexican Editor in regard to the United States. Corwin's Speech. News of the Battle of Buena Vista, Great Rejoicing. Sentiments of the Masses. Page 74. TABLE OF CONTENTS. 4 CHAPTER XL Easter and its Amusements. Visit to the Cathedral. Description of the Edi fice. Our Employment The Spanish Alphabet. Change in Discipline, Improvement in Diet. Masticating Monkeys. The Ladies. Their Hospi tality and Accomplishments. Love and its Doings. Page 79. CHAPTER XII. News of the Investment of Vera Cruz. Battle of Cerro Gordo. Character of Cunningham. Influence of Love. Unfavorable Change in Treatment. Es cape from Valladolid. Passing the Gates. Departure for Q,ueretaro. To matoes. A Rancho. Hospitality of the Women. Baking Tortillas. As sumption of a New Character. Rio Grande de Santiago. Banyan Trees. Mountain Scenery. An American Physician, his Character and Kindness. Education of Lizards. City of Queretaro. A Mexican Diligence. Arrival at the City of Mexico. Page 83. CHAPTER XIII. City of Mexico. Public Grounds. Public Buildings. The Mint. Coining Gold. Hotels, Theatres. Newspaper Press of the City. Literature. So ciety. Manners and Customs. Dress. Suburbs. Cemetery. Population. Page 89. CHAPTER XIV. Major Borland. Public Sentiment in the City. Departure for Puebla. Pass at Rio Frio. Temple of the Sun. City of Puebla. Manufactories. Public Buildings. Cathedral. Investment of the City. Gen. Worth. Disaffection among the Soldiers. Assassinations. Perote. Army under Gen. Scott. Jalapa. Battle Ground of Cerro Gordo. National Road and Bridge. Col.. Sowers. Vera Cruz. Castle of Sun Juan. Passage Across the Gulf. Island of Lobos. Arrival in the United States. Barry and Cunningham. P. 97. CHAPTER XV. Mexico. Extent of Territory. Soil. Climate. Maguey Plant. Cochineal. Vanilla. Cotton and Sugar. Potatoes. Chili. Timber. Water. Tobacco. Commerce. Conquest. Revolution. Independence. Influence and Wealth of the Priesthood. Santa Anna. Gen. Almonte. Gomez Farias. Gen. Herrera. Sqnor Aleman. Education. The War. Manner of Conducting it. Destiny. Page 104. APPENDIX, ---------- 118 DESCRIPTION OF THE PANORAMA, - - 128 -;Ml 8i:J HI nVi&friiMwt .fin! "!-'* " ^*.:x,f. ~n .gniuji-'HKrrti'^fte^r) '.'g*';.*-;' ' -iulq;^-; TU ^- ADVERTISEMENT q " Ai TO THE TWELFTH EDITION. -T/T ,fn*4?i,i _...-, v ,/[* ,, . fj.lff /<., THE author cannot forego the pleasure it affords him in expressing his grateful acknowledgments to the public, for the partiality mani fested towards his unpretending production. To say that his highest anticipations have been more than realized, would be but the tame repetition of a stereotyped phrase they have been completely sub merged in the current of popular favor. More than sixteen thou sand copies of the work, in the English language, have been dis posed of by his publishers, during the past year ; while its translation into the German has been attended with comparatively flattering re gard. The work was first stereotyped and issued at Cincinnati, in Sep tember, 1847, by Messrs. Robinson & Jones, who had the sole super intendence of its sale. The contract with those publishers having expired, by limitation, at the close of the first year, the copy-right now reverts exclusively to the author ; and the repeated applications for it at his Exhibition Room, have induced the issue of the present revised edition, including an Appendix descriptive of the Panorama, which may, to some extent, be regarded as an illustration of his ii:ii & .9&i' M >t) ,i;) Here were two persons whose lives had been base and profligate to the last degree that of the woman too vile to think upon and yet that holy and purifying passion, which neither vice, nor crime, nor misery could extinguish, now seemed, as it were, to triumph over all. And in the very hour, when it was the turn of the most hateful qualities to have uncontrolled sway when every inducement, even the opinion of the world of that world by IN MEXICO. 39 which both had been abandoned was in favor of her deserting the man, she was impelled, by the unaided, irresistible power of her affections, to comfort his hapless wretchedness ; to strip herself of all she possessed to lighten the burdens of a wicked soul that was about to be denied a frail habitation upon the earth and this, too, for a man whose claims upon her affection, if they could have been estimated, were probably, as such men's claims mostly are, less than that which he would have had upon a brute, destitute of reason ! That intelligent and virtuous females know no limits in their exertions for men whom they love, excites no wonder, for it is the result of sincere, ardent, and pure attachment ; but that a woman, divested of the most estimable attributes of her sex, de graded in mind and in person, regarded by the better part of society as an anomaly a monster, belonging to neither sex, but the re proach of both that she should, in the depth of her debasement, practice, and in one instance, at least, feel the same devoted virtue which would have added dignity to the most exalted of women that she should do this, with a disinterestedness which admits of no doubt ; for the object of her love was a wretched criminal, whose days were numbered, and whose name was wedded to dis grace and contempt this is what excited my astonishment, and the highest veneration for the passion which can work such wonders. " The treasures of the deep are not so precious As are the concealed comforts of a man, Locked up in woman's love !" CHAPTER V- Release from Prison at Mondova Punishment of Criminals Advance of Gtn. Wool's Army Our departure for Zacatecas Mexican Expresses Parras Novel Funeral procession Burial of a Muchacha Lake of Parras Rio Grande de Parras Diet Musquitos Degradation of Females Implements of Husbandry An Indian City Indian Fortifica tions Indian Women Captured by the Indians Crossing a River Attempt to Escape Drowning of a Ranchero Towns and Cities Fres- nillo Catholic Procession Arrival at Zacatecas. THERE are tragedies in real life, which, but for their every-day occurrence, would penetrate men's souls deeper than all the fabled woes that poets ever yet imagined. They consist of that war which crime is ever waging upon the dark soul of its victim ; and it is revolting to be compelled to gaze upon sorrows one has not the means to alleviate still more humiliating to endure privations he has no power to avenge. During the brief term of five days' 40 DONNAVAN'S ADVENTURES confinement within the gloomy walls of the prison at Monclova, among criminals condemned to die, I received impressions which years will not suffice to obliterate. It is impossible to contem plate, without the deepest pain, spectacles of degradation, which there became " familiar as honsehold words." Laying aside the enormity of their crimes and the justice of their punishment, the discipline of a Mexican prison and the tortured agony of its in mates are enough to paralyze the cold and rigid sensibilities of a Siberian serf. As I would sit and contemplate this mass of con scious helplessness and misery, my mind would naturally translate itself to my own country, and indulge in comparisons. I thought what a glorious field here presented itself for the benevolent pur poses of Miss Dix, whose disinterested efforts to restrain the rig orous discipline of the prisons of the United States, have made many a penitent heart glad. But the melancholy history of un fortunate Mexico, records rare examples of pure and elevated vir tue, combined with accomplishments like hers. Indeed, had " Solomon, in all his glory." lived out his days there, his remark " who can find a virtuous woman ? her price is far above ru bies !" would doubtless have been esteemed as profound as in his own Oriental land. The establishment of no penitentiary system is authorized by the penal code of Mexico. Capital punishment is frequently in flicted " by authority," for the most trivial offences ; but when the crime of the transgressor does not merit such severity, the laws condemn him to serve in the army, for a certain period of time, stipulated in accordance with the enormity of his offence. Thus, the position of a soldier in the defence of his own soil, which is every where else an honor, is there rendered a disgrace. The law's delay is often more annoying to the criminal than satisfying the ends of justice. In the capital of each province is a prison resembling that at Monclova, in all of which men are frequently confined twenty years, without trial, conviction, or sentence. No sooner had the rumor of Gen. Wool's approach towards Monclova reached the ears of our captors, than we were imme diately released from our inhospitable abode, with a hope that we should not only find better quarters, but more agreeable compan ions. We soon learned, however, that owing to the rapid ad vance of the American army, we had the high prerogative of ad vancing before them, and were compelled, at once, to take up the line of march towards Parras, with a fair prospect of a pedestrian excursion to Zacatecas, four hundred and forty-five miles further into the interior. The authorities at Monclova received intelli-, gence of the advance of Gen. Wool, three days before his arrival ; and it is a remarkable fact that, although their facilities seem to be inferior, they always manage to compete with us in despatch- IN MEXICO. 41 ing an express. This may be attributed to the fact that the law authorizes the rider to supply himself with a fresh mule or mus tang, at every rancho, if necessary, and to always take the fleetest. In less than four days after our departure, we reached Parras, a distance of one hundred and forty-three miles from Monclova. This was " walking Spanish," with a degree of expedition which would do credit to the efforts of Gildersleive, or any other pedes trian. On the night preceding our arrival in town, we remained at the rancho of Don Manuel Ibarra. The Don, with his brother, and several other citizens of the town, had been educated at Bards- town, Ky., and conversed remarkably well in English. Besides being quite civilized himself, he entertained us in a civilized man ner ; and his wine came near raising our independence so far above zero, as to burst our chains, and declare in favor of the " largest liberty." He asked many questions about Bardstown, and seemed to revert, with peculiar relish, to the place of his schoolboy haunts ; and while he made no effort to restrain his indig nation at seeing us hand-cuffed, he offered no substantial relief. Parras is a perfect paradise of a place. It is celebrated for the extensive vineyards, which spread out in every direction from its vicinity, and for its manufacture of wines, pulque, muscal, and ar- diente. The streets were all clean and in good repair, while in every door, and at every window, beautiful senoras and senoritas made their appearance, who did not suppress their feelings of deep commiseration, as we passed. It was some high-church day among the natives, and observed as a fete. The streets were thronged with Mexicans men, women, and children, all of whom appeared to have been washed and dressed up for once in their natural lives, at least. In the morning, before we arrived, there had been a grand and imposing procession, and during the remain ing portion of the day, there was a general cavorting or vamosing through the streets. Those of their soldiers who had participated in the battle of Monterey, had returned, under the weight of the laurels they had won in that bloody conflict, and were warmly ap plauded by the priests and ignorant officials, who seem to regard every engagement as a victory, however fatal to them the fortunes of the day. All nations have their different customs, just as all individuals have their distinguishing characteristics ; and in a strange country, to a stranger, both are often interesting. In the evening, we wit nessed a most novel ceremony. It was the occasion of the burial of a muchacha, a small female child. The excitement created by the fete, had been the means of collecting together a large assem blage ; so that the public places were all filled to overflowing, and our caravan, " horse, foot, and dragoons," experienced much difficulty in finding a place of entertainment. While sauntering 4* 42 DONNAVAN'S ADVENTURES through the streets, under the vigilant eyes of our haughty masters, our attention was first arrested by the sight of a priest, clad in a white robe ornamented with various emblems pertaining to the Cath olic church, coming out of the cathedral, preceded by four small boys, in their scarlet under-robes, and white mantles, each bearing a candle branch ; while the dolefully discordant ringing of the bells apprised us that something unusual was on the tapis. They had not proceeded far till the priest entered a small house, around which had assembled a number of males and females. Our ears were soon saluted by an unearthly sound, which the natives dig nify with the name of music, but which if Shakspeare meant should move all who were fit for nought but " treasons, stratagems, and spoils/' he was quite mistaken. The sound was produced by three fiddles, and a venerable-looking individual with a large vio loncello, each playing a distinct and separate tune, if tunes they might be called, and accompanied by several voices, in an unintel ligible chant. While this novel performance was going on within, three men without were engaged in throwing small rockets, which exploded, making a report as loud as that of a pistol. It was not long till the padre and altar boys came out, preceded by the mu sicians, and followed by the corpse, borne on the shoulders of four men. The bier was composed of a short, rough box, having an upright cross at the head, shrouded with white muslin, and cov ered with a profusion of artificial flowers, and other ornaments, tastefully arranged. At the top of the bier was a dingy brown figure, about two feet in length, enveloped in a velvet robe, deco rated with gold and silver tinsel, and upon its head a bright brass crown, confining a mass of long, raven hair. The hands of the figure were clasped closely over the breast, and presented, as did the features, the appearance of wax. From the house, the funeral procession, which was small, proceeded to the church, where we presume the service was performed by the priest. At least the fiddling and chanting soon ceased, and the procession came out. The body was then conveyed about half a mile, to a consecrated burial ground, unaccompanied by the priest, but still preceded by the fiddlers, and men with the rockets. Our captors, whether in respect to the deceased, or from a sense of religious duty, all joined in the procession, and we were also required to accompany them. Before arriving at the graveyard, it was necessary to ascend a hill, at the base of which all the paraphernalia was left. Here, to our surprise, that which we had all considered a wax figure, sacred to the memory of the Virgin of Gaudaloupe, and which I have described, was the body of the poor little infant it self, whose soul had been transported to heaven, there to join its purer kindred spirits. A strange tradition is connected with the history of the imagi- IN MEXICO. 43 nary Virgin of Gaudaloupe, and the annual festivals which are held in honor of her first appearance. The natives contend that she first introduced herself to an Indian shepherd, in the early con quest of Mexico by the Spaniards, and commanded him, "in the name of Mary, the mother of God," to summon the bishop to her presence. The bishop refused to attend until satisfactory evidence was produced that the shepherd had not conjured up an imaginary vision to deceive him after which he erected a magnificent church on the spot where she had first appeared to the Indian and the anniversary of the day is yet observed as one of their holiest holidays. A wax figure of full size, representing the vir gin, is often used on funeral occasions, which led us to an erro neous conclusion on this. The funeral obsequies of the child were brief, and I could not help remarking that there was no apparent expression of sorrow or regret among the friends, but it seemed to be more an occasion for rejoicing. A number of the Mexicans who mingled in the procession, perhaps from motives of curiosity, appeared highly pleased at seeing American specta tors present, and one of them asked me if I did riot think it mucho bueno meaning, very beautiful ! Parras contains about fifteen thousand inhabitants; it is located near the line, but within the limits of the province of Coahuila. Some distance from the city, on the west, is a beautiful lake bear ing the same name, and the waters of which serve to irrigate the grounds for miles in circumference. We had remained in the city till the afternoon of the day succeeding our arrival, and after our departure, encamped for the night upon the banks of this lake, which is over thirty miles in length, and varying in width from five to twelve miles. It was sunset when we sat down at the end of our day's journey, and the dark blue hills in the neigh borhood looked like chains of amethysts in a golden setting. The placid waters faithfully mirrored back the beautiful vision, only as with a light gauzy veil breathed over it. There were orange groves of no ideal kid ; and the perfumes of odoriferous gums filled the atmosphere. Acacia shrubs, interwoven with wild lilac and blue-colored parasite, flourished on the banks, whose refresh ing fragrance seemed infinitely richer than the breath of spring in our own fields and woods, during the fairest season of the year. The delusion was enough to make us forget the gloom which gathered round our own destiny, till the wild doves upon the palm branches, in all their native liberty set up their mournful, melan choly notes. Montezuma hens were gathered in clusters upon the banks, and a variety of water-fowl, some marble white, others raven black, were chirping out their monotonous evening songs. Large flocks of pelicans were floating over the lake, and occa sionally the heron with his heavy-flapping wings, would agitate 44 DONNAVAN'S ADVENTURES the bosom of the clear blue waters for the birds in Mexico, like every thing else, animate or inanimate, are supplied with horns After the sun had entirely sunk behind the Pacific, on his diuinal course to enlighten the opium eaters of the Celestial Empire, the evening glow faded away, but a still softer radiance came to clothe the pale mountains with rosy tints. The shining stars had risen, looking out like angel's eyes upon the lake, with none of that glimmering, as if they trembled with cold, which is seen in our clear winter nights. Their bright shadows were mirrored in the lovely lake, across whose silvery flood pueblas floated in their rude gondolas, as if between two heavens. Along the banks life was stirring. Fires were burning at the hearths, before the doors of the huts of the rancheros ; flocks of bleating sheep and goats were moving homeward; and the barking of smooth, hairless dogs, the singing of men, and shouting of children, swelled the concert, and served to beguile the hours of a sleepless night. For several consecutive days, our route continued along the bank of the Rio Grande de Parras, (Grand river of Parras,) the waters of which flow into this lake ; some nights stopping at ran cheros and haciendas, others in the woods, with no shelter but the dark blue roof of the world. At the rancheros we found an addition to the usual diet in the shape of wild fowls, often well cooked, and whose carcasses we demolished with a decided relish. An improvement was also perceptible in the appearance of many of the women, whose pretty faces we could not well avoid look ing at, and who, although they were rather shy and inclined to shun us at first, would generally approach us without much sign of fear, before we left. The picturesque grouping of the man grove and banana, to say nothing of the palm so abundant on the banks of this river, could not but excite our admiration. But it is seldom we experience a pleasing sensation unalloyed with something of the portentous or opposite ; and while enjoying the incomparable beauty of this Mexican river, we were not only annoyed with an oft returning sense of wrongs inflicted by human hands, but by swarms of sand flies, and broods of musquitos, of the largest size, and keenest bills, the loudest singers, and sharp est biters in the universe. Their's is no guerilla warfare, but a bold, manly attack in front. The fatigues of a hard day's jour ney was no security against one of their charges, and even the tough-skinned Mexicans were not impervious to their assualts notwithstanding Poco Llama had proved himself constitutionally opposed to settling bills. We may talk as we will about the beautiful skies of Mexico, her balmy gales, and the gaiety of land scape, which can hardly be conceived in less sunny climes it will fascinate the imagination, but will not shield us from the bar barous cruelty of her musquitos they are the reality of the IN MEXICO. 45 romance, and dispel the brightest illusions by their sanguinary onslaughts. Near a village or hacienda, called Punta Velascos, in the prov ince of Zacatecas, we witnessed a spectacle which, to the credit of the Mexican people, is by no means a common one. Repulsive as some of their customs are, we were not prepared for a scene of barbarism like this. We actually saw a number of females, harnessed like cattle, to the plough, dragging it through the soil, while men were lounging in the furrows, lazily swinging at the handles. Women were here emphatically degraded to the drudge of life, and it was enough to make the heart bleed to look upon the burdens they were compelled to bear. There is no affecta tion or sentimentality in this it is a plain, but lamentable fact, which we were happy to find staring us in the face at only this one place during our progress through the provinces. The ploughs and other instruments of husbandry, used by the natives, were such as to excite our curiosity. They are all con structed of wood, with the bare exceptions of the pick and crow bar, which are pointed with iron. A Mexican plough is nothing more nor less than the fork of a small tree, the one prong of which, being sharpened, serves for the share, while the other is extended as a beam with a pole or handle attached to the crotch, and you have completed the celebrated implement which furrowed out the fame of Cincinnatus himself. We learned that the " peacock," and other patterns of the improved plough, had at different times been introduced there, but rejected as "Yankee* notions." Between Parras and St. Catharina, we encountered several dif- > ,> ferent Indian tribes, the first of which was the Yaquis, a small , tribe., all of whom reside in a city called Yaqui, the population of which amounts to perhaps four or five thousand. The features and general appearance of these people bear a closer resemblance to the European or Anglo-Saxon race, than do those of the Mex icans. Docile and timid in their habits, they support themselves by agriculture, and cultivate extensive fields of Indian corn and potatoes in the neighborhood of their city. Their buildings are all one story high, constructed of unburnt brick ; and those of each square consist of one solid block, all the rooms being in direct communication with each other. There are four streets diverging from the centre, where stands, upon a high eminence, a temple dedicated to the sun. These streets divide the city into four distinct squares, or districts, each of which has its own muni cipal regulations. The whole presents a rather commanding ap pearance, and is certainly creditable to the taste and ingenuity of its aboriginal projectors. This tribe long since absolved all alle- 46 giance to Mexican authority rejecting not only their govern ment, but religion, and will permit neither their priests nor civil dignitaries to come among them. Their manner of worship con sists of the same forms and ceremonies as did that of the ancient Aztecs, with the exception of the sacrifices. They have ceased to immolate themselves upon the altar, probably from the fact that their race is nearly extinct. The history of this tribe is marked by repeated acts of the most cruel oppression. About thirty years ago they were all driven from their homes, and fled to the extreme north of the province of Sinoloa, where they founded a more ex tensive colony, and where a great portion of the tribe yet remains. Those who now compose the population of Yaqui, are such as were impelled to return, through the influence of that yearning, instinctive love for their native land, which is, to some extent, in herent in the breast of the whole human family ; and which so attaches them to their early homes, that neither outrage nor op pression can drive them hence. Not only have they been assailed, plundered, and murdered by the Mexicans, but their honest labors are taxed to support another more barbarous and savage tribe, called the Tarenechas, who annually rob them of a great portion of their substance. The Tarenechas are a hostile and heathen tribe, a number of whom are to be found among the soldiers of the Mexican army, and particularly in the guerrilla parties ; which entitles them to some favorable consideration from the government. Our route lay directly through their town or fort, which is on the bank of the Rio Grande de Parras, not far from the source of that river. The fort extends from the river bank to the top of a high hill, the country behind which is inaccessible, and altogether, com mands a grand and enchanting prospect. The fortifications en circled the summit of the hill, and consisted of an enclosure of high palisadoes, firmly and closely secured ; within this there was a thick, broad hedge, rendered impenetrable by the matting of ivy, junipers, briars, and other sorts of copse. These circular bar riers had but two entrances, and within them stood the wigwams, forming another circle, with an intervening space of a most beau tiful, verdant lawn, between them and the fortification. They appeared like a circle of arbors, constructed of young trees, twisted together and bent to unite in the form of a cone or dome, at the top, and so ingeniously covered with bark, and often in more elegant style with mats made of reeds, as to be dry and comfortable. An orifice at the top emitted the smoke of the fire, in the centre of each, presenting a life-like and domestic specta cle. A grand circular area within the whole, was used as exigence required. In the evenings, the young met in it, and joined in the festive dance. During the day, it was a gymnasinm, for ^athletic IN MEXICO. , 47 feats of activity and strength, and exercises in arms and combat. On more important occasions, it was the forum of counsellors, who met to dispense justice, and regulate the affairs of the tribe. An elevated mound in the centre of all, seemed to be a kind of observatory, from which arose a tall, straight pole, surmounted by a bull's head. But we found the prospective far more charming than the place itself. The nearer we approached, the enchantment of its rural elegance was dispelled. The filth cast out before the doors of the wigwams, rose up in putrifying heaps. These corrupting offals disgusted alike the eyes and olfactories of all but the Indians. In the sunny space, the young Indians, like groups of grumphing quadrupeds, had crawled together in a state of primitive naked ness. Not yet able to walk, they sprawled and sported together, with that degree of careless indolence a voluptuous clime inspires. Their hair, which in riper years is jet black, was blanched ; and the red color of their plump physiognomies was considerably heightened by exposure to the influence of a tropical sun. A rup ture finally ensued among these little varlets, which soon called the squaws from their wigwams, and who came dashing like furies into the group. Each plucked her particular charge from the uproari ous heap, and tossing it over her brawny shoulders, screamed in concert with the shriller pipes, raised to the highest key, of the outraged and inquiring urchin. The squaws, whom we learned were seldom on the most amicable footing with each other, kindling with the supposed injuries sustained by their respective pappooses, now turned the strife actively towards each other ; and the juve niles clung to their mothers' backs, grinning, and spitting wrath, as their guardians pulled each other's hair, and fought with nails and fists, till a number lay routed on the ground. Such clamor in the camp, seemed to be no usual thing, and called for the inter ference of several warriors, who soon calmed the tempest. The shafts of their lances flourished about the dishevelled heads of the insurgents like forked lightening ; and battered and routed, the whole female force fled, growling and whining under their wounds, to the interior of their hovels. This insurrection brought to the doors of their wigwams, several feeble, infirm, and superannuated old fellows, who looked like candidates for " the hunting grounds above." Their heads were hoary and bald. Though emaciated and withered, they were not bowed and bent like our veteran mechanics and laborers, but straight as rushes ; and through their furrowed, wrinkled, smoke-bleared features, much of the Indian manly expression might be discerned. While all these things were transpiring, a crowd, headed by the sachems, had assembled around us, and to our surprise, taken our captors captive ; while they stared at us, with as much amazement 48 DONNAVAN'S. ADVENTURES as if we had just dropped from the moon, or Le Verrier's new planet. After learning the character of our captors, and the na ture of their mission, a brief deliberation at the council-fires, resulted in permitting us all to pass on, unmolested ; not, however, till after we had dined with the Indians, who feasted us on bean soup, and the meat of a venerable mustang, that, had a coroner's inquest been held over his defunct carcass, the verdict would have been, " came to his death from abstemious habits." While engaged in discussing the soup, for we did not feel inclined to disturb the dry bones of a " dead horse," our attention was drawn to a scene of another de scription. It was the youth of the tribe, just returning from a pillaging excursion, with three other ill-fated prisoners. The con querors of Parthia, on their triumphal entry, could not have felt or expressed higher exultation. They had burned and destroyed three families of Zamboos, whose scalps they had brought on long poles, to grace their pageantry. The prisoners which they brought with them, after promising to become initiated into the tribe, had been permitted to survive. This was a youthful feat, worthy the fame of their choicest warriors, and in which they exulted with the en thusiastic warmth of youth. Though their features were of a heavy symmetry all of a dark bronze color, some shades lighter than their jet, bushy hair, yet the fire of the soul animated the dark, round countenance with the highest marks of expression. Their large eyes seemed kindled ; and the compressed lips, dis tended nostrils, and glistening ray that radiated and burst from their visages, exhibited the native energy of Indian character, which indolence and want of cultivation had combined to suppress. A shout burst from the rnidst of them. It was responded to by the young Indian females hastening to meet them. The warriors joined in the deafening acclamation, and the fort rung with praise and triumph. As we retreated from the enclosure, they commenced a kind of fandango, or war dance, and it was long before their shouts of revelry died upon our ears. Passing on through the old military and missionary station of St. Catharina, we crossed the Rio Grande de Parras, near Sombrerete, in a novel looking ferry-boat, made something after the fashion of an " Ohio broadhorn." Our passage was purposely delayed till the ferry-boat made her last trip, while six of the company were left to guard us. This was the first stream of any importance we had encountered during our journey, and apprised that we were to cross it, we had already concerted an attempt to escape. Being good swimmers, although our arms were confined behind us, we resolved to jump overboard, which resolution was carried into effect soon after the boat was pushed into the current. Quite unexpectedly, three of the Mexicans plunged in after us, one of -whom went to the bottom to rise no more. Througli the excitement, and by the unlooked for rapidity of the current, I was carried a half mile be- IN MEXICO. 49 low, to the opposite shore, where those of the party who had pre viously crossed, were awaiting my arrival. As they threw a lasso over my head, they laughed heartily at the futility of any effort we might make to escape. My companions, (Mr. Cunningham and Dr. Barry,) swam to the other shore, but were pursued by the guerillas on mustangs-, and soon retaken. They made no effort to rescue the body of the drowned Mexican, but passed on to Som- brerete with the utmost indifference in regard to his fate. Consid erably refreshed by this immersion, we set off on the ensuing morning for Fresnillo, over the best road and through the best cul tivated region we had yet looked upon in Mexico. A most striking difference exists between the manner of their population and that of the United States. From a variety of causes, such as scarcity of water and timber as a means of defence against the banditti, and the existence of mineral resources, which constitute the chief wealth of the country, Mexico sustains nearly her entire population in the towns and cities, all of which will be found much, larger than an American would be apt to anticipate. While in the country, instead of encountering farms or villages at almost every turn in the road, one will not unfrequently travel three days without seeing even a temporary habitation. Few of the towns in the interior and mining districts, contain a population of less than ten thousand, some as high as sixty thousand ; and all having a number of churches, which are universally constructed in the Gothic style of architecture. Fresnillo, within thirty miles of Zacatecas, contains a population of twelve thousand. Its neighboring scenery is rich and diversi fied ; and its numerous gardens, luxuriant herbage, and fertile fields, serve to render it one of those paradises, on a small scale, which so abound in Mexico. Our arrival in the place was just a time to witness the closing scene of another grand Catholic proces sion, in honor of some of the saints we did not inquire who. Many of the streets through which the procession had passed, were yet green with pine leaves, while across them, overhead, were arches of evergreens, variegated with flowers of different hues. As is usual on such occasions, all the church ornaments were con spicuously displayed at different parts of the city, and the windows of the wealthiest portion of the inhabitants richly decorated with crimson curtains and silk flags of the most costly materials. On the following day we had a comparatively easy march, over a broad, well-constructed road, to Zacatecas. Added to this favora ble circumstance, the prospect of approaching the end of our long journey, a very perceptible change for the better began to manifest itself in our feelings. Our condition was melancholy enough, and although we had little reason to hope for improvement, we knew that new cruelties could not well be inflicted for we were almost 5 50 DONNAVAN'S ADVENTURES ready to welcome death itself, as a relief from an existence offering so little charm for the future. Our clothes were so tattered and torn into shreds and strings, as to expose the bare skin to the burn ing sun ; while at every ventilation, a blister of the same dimensions obtruded itself into the very face of the sun's rays so the ele ments themselves appeared to conspire to draw us into fresh afflic tions. As for boots or shoes, they had long since been dispensed with their term of service having expired, not by virtue of limi tation, but the performance of extra service. With bare feet and legs, lacerated and bleeding, and our physical energies almost ex hausted after a jaunt of nearly five hundred miles, we entered the gates of Zacatecas on the evening of the 7th of November, de pressed even more from anxiety to learn our final fate, than from what we had already endured. CHAPTER VI. Zacatecas Peace Party American Citizens Their Hospitality Our Re lease Contemplated Return A Mexican Editor. AROUSED from our slumbers early on the morning after our arri val in Zacatecas, we looked out upon its broad streets with new impulses. Situated in the beautiful valley of the Santander river, the towering peaks of Sierra Madre, with their rich and hidden treasures, seem to look down upon the city with a kind of paternal significance. As if limning on her largest scale, nature has here made all her figures bold and colossal all her features prominent and strongly marked. Zacatecas, the capital of the province of the same name, was by far the largest place we had yet entered, during our progress through the country. It contains twenty thousand inhabitants, with well paved streets, and tasteful buildings. Its population is com posed, not alone of the Spanish and Mexican races, but is mixed with a number of French, English, and Americans, and whose im provements, instead of being confined to chemical developments and the pursuits of trade, are convulsing the moral and political state of the country. A more enlightened feeling here pervaded, than in any other portion we had visited. The inert mass of the province had advanced at least one step beyond their neighbors, in feeling and asserting their importance. Perhaps it was the influ ence of example this schooling of their dormant spirits yet there seemed really to exist half an inclination to enter the palace of the Belshazzars, and write admonitions on the walls. The still IN MEXICO. 51 * small voice of popular rights which found utterance at the com mencement of the Texan revolution, had not died away, but was yet audible, and almost ready to burst in thundering intonations. It will be recollected that in the struggle between the Centralists and Federalists, when Texas boldly led off, the province of Zaca- tecas joined in what was denounced as a rebellion. Her people were soon overwhelmed, however, by Santa Anna and his army, and subdued. Since that period, the most inveterate hatred of Santa Anna has existed among all the population, except perhaps, the priests and officers of the Central government. A peace party, numbering among its members many native citizens of influence and wealth, Americans and other foreigners, residing there, existed at the time of our arrival. This party was awaiting with much anxiety the appearance of Gen. Taylor and his army, whose ad vance upon the place was then daily anticipated. This gave to the Americans a degree of confidence and assurance, which, under other circumstances, they would not have dared to avow. Having heard of our arrival and almost perishing condition, a deputation of them, led by Dr. Hetzel, formerly a resident of Missouri, came to oui quarters, and demanded' an interview with us in private. This was at first peremptorily refused. Confined and guarded, as we were, within a room on the second floor of the meson, we looked down upon the mob, which was fast accumulating, with peculiar sensations with that mingling of hope and fear which so strangely thrills the breast, at the evident approach of a crisis in one's des tiny. We could not be mistaken in distinguishing among the crowd the faces of some of our own countrymen for the Yankee never fails to betray his identity yet we knew nothing of their strength or spirit, and could not even wish them to make a demonstration in our behalf, engaged as the two countries were, in hostilities. They would thus forfeit their own claims to protection, and render their own persons and property liable to seizure. Their purpose was soon accomplished, however, without any manifestation of violence. The mob growing stronger, momentarily, our captors, at first at a loss what course to pursue, soon settled upon the more prudent policy of admitting them ; and upon witnessing the feeling displayed in our favor, with all the semblance of magnanimity, they offered to relinquish their claims upon our persons ! After briefly relating to our deliverers the manner in which we had been captured, and the history of the wrongs to which we had been subjected, indisputable evidences of which were deeply en graven upon our persons, we were conducted to the private and comfortable apartments of Dr. Hetzel. To the kind hospitality of our countryman we were not only indebted for all the means by which to recruit our physical energies, and revive our jaded spirits, but for a complete revolution in our wardrobe. 52 DONNAVAN'S ADVENTURES All again comfortably clad, and decidedly improved, both in appearance and habits, we began to feel a strong inclination to return to our homes and country. But our proposition to depart for Saltillo, a distance of nearly two hundred miles, and where the American army under Gen. Taylor was then stationed, received no countenance among those to whom we owed our release and lib erty. Indeed, the new dangers to which we should have been ex posed, in the absence of an escort, rendered the contemplated expedition a most perilous one, and it required no effort of elo quence on the part of our new, but sincere friends, to induce us to remain and partake of their tendered hospitalities, until the advance of the American army should open a line of safe commu nication to the Rio Grande. And we were by no means troubled with ennui at Zaca- tecas. The severe lessons of adversity we had learned in captivity, taught us, more than ever, how to appreciate the blessings of liberty. Besides this, every attention calculated to make our sojourn agree able was bountifully bestowed. We were introduced to a number of the citizens, male and female, many of whom we found both intelligent and agreeable. Among them was Leandro Cabos, editor of the " Heraldo" the only newspaper printed in the city, and that a most decided advocale for peace. The editor expressed his sentiments in a manly and independent manner, and did not hesi tate to avow, both publicly and privately, his predilection for " Yankee institutions." He not only refused to insert in his paper any thing favorable to Santa Anna and his party, but would pub lish conspicuously, all Gen. Taylor's orders which appeared in the least favorable to the Mexican people. We visited the mines, gardens, public buildings, besides several natural curiosities observed the peculiar characteristics of the people, and altogether, saw and learned much that was to us new and novel. CHAPTER VII. Mexican opinion of Yankees Buildings in Zacatecas Ciistoms Merchants' Shops Business Auction Sales Petty Thieves and their Punishment Gambling Lotteries Sunday Entertainments Churches Cathedral and its Ornaments Praying for a Husband Bull Fights Death of a Pica- dore Cock Fighting Extent of Silver Mines Gold Dust JV'atural Cave Geological Specimens /row, Copper, and Coal Mines Garden of Don Alonzo Gomeres Huaco Plant, its appearance and discovery Manu factures in the City Politics Jose Maria Lafragua Government Cruelties of Santa Anna Barbarous Execution of a Young Female. THAT mankind generally, and the Mexicans in particular, are strange and incomprehensible animals, is among the " fixed facts.' 1 IN MEXICO. 53 From the highly cultivated Anglo-Saxon, down through the whole grade of animate nature, to the blind and bigoted heathen of Hin- dostan, every one appears to be dissatisfied with his lot, and claims a belter one ; while, at the same time, every one is apt to consider himself better, if not wiser, than any one else at least, he obsti nately prefers his own manners, diet, dress, and religion, to all others, and will laugh at or pity those who differ with him. Among all nations, as well as individuals, (except the Flat-head Indians,) the organ of self-esteem is unchecked in its develop ment "in testimony whereof," the great mass of the Mexican people regard the sovereigns of the United States, just as the sovereigns of the United States regard them. We are free to de nounce them as half-civilized cut-throats, and they retort by calling us adventurous barbarians ; while in either case, perhaps the epi thets deserve to be modified. True, the people of the two nations differ as widely as the poles, in their habits, pursuits, and concep tions of what constitutes refinement, yet many of these differences, unimportant in the abstract, are the result of the prejudice of education. Unalterable as were my prepossessions strong as my antipathies I have seldom been more favorably impressed with the appearance of any city, than I was after strolling through the broad streets of Zacatecas. In many respects it will compare favorably with some of the large cities of the United States. The buildings are of all sizes, fashions, and colors, from one to three stories high, the greater portion of which are constructed in the old Spanish style, with a court-yard in the centre, which is often used as a stable. This makes a close neighborhood, and estab lishes a familiarity between the inmates of the house and stable, on many accounts disagreeable, but neither the one class nor the other seem to mind it, for they appear to entertain the utmost respect for each other. There is one appendage about their bet ter class of houses deserving praise above all others the delight ful balconies that almost universally grace them. To these is often added, on a level with the first floor, a corridor or gallery, in which more airy situation the families spend the greater portion of their time, breakfasting, dining, or torturing some musical instrument, among which the guitar comes in for its full share of punishment. The doors and windows are on an extensive scale, the latter hav ing neither sash nor glass, are filled with iron bars, through the broad interstices of which nothing but one's own sense of good breeding prevents him from seeing what the family are about within. It is the fashion to arrange some half dozen chairs within, near the window, facing each other, where the company will sit gazing at, and talking to, each other with great vivacity. In pass ing through the streets, innumerable groups of this kind may be seen, while elsewhere he may find them seated at a table playing 5* 54 DONNAVAN'S ADVENTURES monte, and often dancing, as if their salvation, like that of the shakers, depended on the exercise of their heels. The stores and shops of the city, which are for the most part under the supervision and control of females, appeared to be well supplied with every variety of foreign goods that had found their way in through the ports on the Pacific, previous to the blockade. Business was said to be dull, owing to the fact that stealing had greatly improved since the war ; and a number of the merchants were selling off at auction. At their auction sales a large forum is erected on the public square or plaza, in which a spear is fixed, surmounted by the Mexican colors. This is after the original Roman fashion, and the bidding is signified by holding up the fin gers. The alcalde's permission is always necessary before the sale is confirmed. The forum is generally crowded with silver smiths, or rather bankers' shops, where the articles sold are regis tered and sealed. By them the names of the buyers are noted, and the goods delivered under the authority of the alcalde. In this manner a semblance of the supremacy of law and order is kept up, while the small retail thieves seldom fail to come in for their share. Occasionally, one of them is detected and pun ished. If the value of the stolen property amounts to six reals, (75 cents,) the thief is condemned to serve in the army if under that amount, he is taken to the market place, un dressed, and publicly whipped, with a thick, raw-hide lash, on his naked back ; just as if eternal disgrace would arouse his sense of honor. One can get accustomed to every thing but such bru tality, and a Mexican often gets accustomed to that, for I saw one laugh after he had been beaten till he bled. The laws seem to impose no restraint upon gambling, every species of which is indulged in publicly. Women, with their montebanks, are to be seen at every turn and corner of the streets. A legalized system of lotteries, also, serves not only to lure the population from the ordinary pursuits of industry, but sinks their whole lives in the vortex of uncertain chance. This is owing chiefly to the cheapness of tickets, which puts it in the power of the very poorest to become adventurers. The most fascinating feature in a Mexican lottery is the worst. Tickets can be purchased for one real, (12 1-2 cents,) which in half an hour may gain fifteen hundred dollars. This induces all the poor people to take lottery stock, and servants sometimes rob their mas ters to procure the means. The doors of the numerous offices are always thronged, for the drawing does not cease. These offi ces are also kept by the women, to whom the government dele gates the privilege, and it is not uncommon to 'hear an old hag cry out, " Who will buy my dream ? I dreamt of three numbers." The ugly women depend on their dreams to effect sales, while the IN MEXICO. 55 young arid beautiful attract customers by their bewitching smiles, which on Sundays are accompanied by some wild chant on the guitar. Moralizers in our own country complain because the mail is conveyed, and s'eamboats are permitted to run on Sunday. They ought to go to Mexico. There it is the gayest, noisiest, and most business-like day in all the week, and there their doctrines of rer form might be preached to some purpose. The streets of Zaca- tecas are kept in one continual uproar, and the noise of omni buses, diligences, wagons, church-goers, water-carriers, grocers, and pedlars, seldom dies away before midnight. In the morning, at six o'clock, the bells of over sixty churches summon the people to mass. The performances are then slightly varied during the day. In the forenoon, the regular service comes off, and the churches are surrounded by a host of carriages and wagons men and women selling to the visitors fruits, cakes, pulque, and play-things. A crowd of lazaroni, half-naked, occupy the en trance, demanding charity. In strange contrast with this filihy, indolent crowd, is the Mexican priest, who, in his long flowing garments, covered with gold and silver, as a true and humble dis ciple of Jesus, passes majestically by them, as if a soul could never tabernacle in such an humble looking tenement. Desiring to make the most of our time, we visited the cathe dral, in company with Dr. Hetzel, who not only knew all the crooks and turns of the city, but the history of almost every im portant event connected with it. The cathedral is situated on Calle de Patria, (Patriot street,) and we soon came in front otf its vast sculptured figures that have frowned or smiled down upon the street below for a hundred years. On or near the spot where it stands, the first church in the province was erected about three hundred years ago. More than two centuries after this, the edi fice was entirely destroyed by fire, and was rebuilt by the munifi cence of Hidalgo, a celebrated priest-general, who flourished his brief hour in the days of the revolution. It is an enormous pile, the construction of which occupied over twenty years. It would be idle to enter into an architectural criticism upon this church, but I may be allowed to say that were it not for its jumble of or naments, by which all the effect of simplicity one of the highest elements of beauty is lost, it would be regarded with the most profound admiration by every beholder. The entrance is by three marble porches. It has two towers resting on the walls, one of which is remarkable for having been built with money paid for indulgences to eat meat in Lent. The spire at the junction of the nave and transepts, is built of cast iron bars, with a geometri cal staircase winding its way to the top, some 400 feet. It looks much like the frame of a steeple, but very little like a steeple 56 ADVENTURES itself. The interior is about 420 feet in length, and the height of the vaulting of the nave is 87 feet. The effect of the interior is exceedingly imposing, and is greatly heightened by the fine rose, and other windows of beautifully stained glass. It was not so much, however, on account of the beauty of Gothic arches and pictured windows, through which a flood of richly-colored light was shed over the delicate tracery and sculptured saints, or poured along the extended aisles, that I lingered in this cathedral. It was to dwell upon the lineaments of the proud priest's counte nance. He was the son of Hidalgo himself, and was officiating in the funeral ceremonies of his distinguished father, whose re mains had been exhumed from their narrow home at Dolores, to be deposited in the chapel at the cathedral in Zacatecas. He possesses the religions, but not the military qualities of his father. The churches of Mexico are not furnished with seats or pews, ns in the United States ; and on entering, one is struck, not only with the uneasy and uncomfortable position of a large congrega tion on their knees, on a hard brick floor, but by the gold and sil ver pillars and balustrades, which surround the altar, the rich gold altar itself, and the countless images of saints and angels, with expanded wings, looking down from their eminent positions, as if to guard and bless the groups of half-clad and penitent men and women, kneeling around the altar beneath them. The most implicit confidence is placed in the power of the saints, and the variety of distinct offices they have to perform, makes their catalogue so extensive, that he who is not particularly interested in soliciting their favors, will seldom become familiar with their names. One of these saints, it does not matter about his name, is said to preside over Hyrnenial affairs, and the young ladies frequently pray to him for husbands till the drops of perspi ration roll down their bare necks like the sources of a young river. This is really "getting into a sweat" for a husband, but it serves to show that they are free from the sin of coquetry. If they become favorably impressed with the appearance of a young man, they are unremitting in their devotional exercises, and, through their petitions to the saint, almost invariably succeed in gaining his affections. The saint enjoys the moral reputation of never having directly interfered in granting a prayer which would deprive a married woman of her husband, but has frequently broken off engagements, at the earnest request of a pretty girl a decided mark of gallantry, notwithstanding his absolute power over the affections of the young. In connection with this subject, a most amusing circumstance occurred on the morning of the fifth day after our arrival at the city. Mr. Cunningham, (one of my companions,) being a man of fine personal appearance, was called up at four o'clock by a IN MEXICO. . 57 man, who delivered a note from a lady to whom he had been in troduced a day or two previous, and with whom he had a very slight acquaintance, slating that her husband had died on the pre vious evening, and begged he would hasten to her assistance, as she had been most devoutly praying for him. He called upon the disconsolate widow, agreeable to her request, and has since often wished that the saint had granted her prayer, and thrown him into the arms of this Delila, instead of a prison-printing office. But I have not completed an enumeration of the amusements that occupy a Mexican Sunday. Among the most interesting to the citizens was a bull-fight, which came off in the public plaza, at 2 o'clock in the evening. So infatuating to the natives is this spectacle, that they would leave their prayers or meals half-finished, to witness it ; though one sight will generally satisfy the curiosity of an American. The price of admission to the seats within the plaza was one dollar, where a promiscuous crowd of some ten thousand persons had assembled, composed of men, women, arid children, of every rank and station. Two bands of music, the in struments consisting of drums, violins, violoncellos, guitars, flage olets, and French horns, besides the horns of five bulls, were en gaged for the occasion. A man on horseback and three picadores, or footmen, were to fight the bulls, one at a time. The animals are confined in a small enclosure, adjoining the amphitheatre, and after torturing each one about half an hour, with sharp iron- pointed poles, ornamented with ribbons, the gate is hoisted and he rushes into the plaza, with long strips of crimson silk depend ing from his horns and tail, and roaring like a full grown lion. His sonorous bellowings are soon drowned, however, by the deaf ening acclamations of the crowd, and the horseman dressed in a cloak of rich and variegated colors rushes upon the brute with his lance. It was the bull's turn next, and being a strong, healthy looking fellow, foaming with rage, he thrust his horns into the horse, and gored him to death in an instant. The rider and pica- dores vamosed, or vanished, as speedily as possible ; but soon re turned to renew the attack upon their adversary, who stood twisting his tail in conscious triumph. In .making his second charge the horseman caught the bull by the tail, and passing it under his leg, wheeled his horse and brought his adversary to his knees, when he again wheeled and inflicted a severe incision in the bull's neck with his lance. At this, the bull became rather " cowed," and was hissed off the stage. The second bull was then let in, and pitched into the horseman in the same unceremo nious manner, but not with the success of his predecessor. A lick in the short ribs, by one of the picadores' pike poles, felled him to the ground, when they proceeded to pin a number of lighted 58 rockets to his neck, the explosion of which, instead of frightening the poor brute, as I presumed it would, caused him to stare in a most sarcastic and contemptuous manner at his persecutors. He then approached in a most menacing mood within a few feet of one of the footmen, but the skill of the latter in wielding his stick, enabled him to stand his ground, and pierce the enraged animal till the blood gushed profusely from his nostrils, and he fell amid a shower of applause from the spectators. But the triumph was reserved for the last bull, who turned the after-piece into a thrilling tragedy, somewhat in violation of the general programme. He was a lean, guant-looking quadruped, but blessed with the nerve of a Hercules. Owing, perhaps, to his cadaverous appear ance, they had not deemed it necessary to saw off the points of his horns, as they had those of the other animals, and upon the very first assault, he despatched one of the picadores by thrusting his horns through his body, and as if proud of his victory, thus carried him half a dozen times around the ring, when he tossed his lifeless body into a crowd of children, breaking the arm of a machucha. This, however, although not in the bills, was a part of the sport, and was as loudly cheered as any other portion of the performance. Indeed, there was some show of justice in giv ing the bull a round of applause, as the animal seemed to have no friends there ; and as it was next to be his turn, it was perhaps gratifying to die full of honors. The entertainment continued till the bull was victimized, when the company dispersed, all shouting at the top of their voices, " Ave Maria purisime losgallos viennen," which translated, signifies, hail purest Mary, the chicken-cocks are coming ! And proceeding to the cock-pit on the opposite side of the plaza, a great variety of the best specimens of that bird, so intimately associated with the party politics of our own country, were found ready to indulge their war-like propensities for the gratification of those whom it is well ascertained would much rather " look on " than do any fighting themselves. There is no limit to the betting, or to the amounts staked, and I have seen, more than once, fifty thousand dollars lost and won on a single cock-fight. Here the world is seen tossing around in all its splendor, and the innumerable vices that splendor generates, by abase perversion of all the elements of happiness. Drunken Indians congregate at every corner to curse police officers, and laugh at the women in their stiff Sunday petticoats ; while others scarcely clad at all, with half a dozen new editions at their heels, and one tied to their brown backs, promenade the thoroughfares, the very daguerreo types of misery and shame. At night all this loose population as semble at different places of amusement coffee-houses, dancing saloons, etc., until the hour of midnight mass, when the churches are again thronged. IN MEXICO. 5y But amidst all the confusion of tongues, the hum of a foreign language, the reckless poverty and unbridled vice, there are many redeeming associations connected with our brief sojourn in Zaca- tecas. Of all places in the world, Mexico is the last, where a foreigner should undertake to preach morals, or instruct in man ners, if he wish to avoid being considered a decided bore. It is quite certain that much of their treachery and distrust are the re sult of an officious interference by foreigners, who have endeavored to instruct them in their social and domestic relations. We were not there as missionaries, and our only prayers were, in the lan guage of Florida's motto, " to be let alone." We visited the silver mines, in the adjacent mountains, which are among the richest in Mexico. Although not so extensively worked as they were some years ago, over twelve thousand men are employed in the mines, and more than three thousand persons in the mint, which is second in importance to that in the city of Mexico, and has frequently coined $75,000 in the short space of twenty-four hours. The mines are entered by deep caverns cut in the sides of the moun tains, through solid quartz, sometimes gradually descending, and at others ascending, a parallel distance of two miles, always fol lowing the vein. The ore is contained in the stone, which, when quarried, is ground into powder ; the dust is then thrown into great reservoirs of water, where the precious metals are detached through a chemical process. It is asserted upon good authority, that the richest gold mines in the world exist in the vicinity of Zacatecas, but the instability and unsettled state of the government has offered no inducement to capitalists to engage in working them. We were shown the spot, at the confluence of two small streams, which wound through the steep and crooked ravines, were gold dust, valued at one million of dollars, was scraped up from the sur face with the hand, only a few years ago, by a French geologist. Among the greatest natural curiosities of the country is a cave in one of these towering mountains ; which, although of no very great dimensions, exceeds in beauty and sublimity any thing of the kind I have ever visited. The principal entrance is from the west, on the bank of the Santander river, where a passage has been ex cavated by the hand of nature, sufficiently large to admit several persons abreast, and which is about sixty feet in length. At the extremity there is a sudden bend, or rather projection of the lateral rock, which, when passed, gives an unexpected and magnificent view of the interior cavern, presenting a circular chamber some hundred feet in diameter. Stalactites, ever varying in form and color, lend their magic effect to the scene, and reflect the light beams from the entrance to every nook of the subterranean apart ment. Near the centre is a calcareous spring, which imparts a coolness to the atmosphere, grateful in the extreme to those who 60 DONNAVAN'S ADVENTURES have just escaped the heat of a tropical sun. A tufa is deposited from the waters, which has risen in a circular mound more than twelve feet from the surface of the place. Over this, on every side, the water pours, producing a singular and picturesque fountain, and making it a favorable resort at all seasons of the year. Belemnites are to be found in the interior, and occasionally masses of siliceous matter, and crystallizations of salt. This shows a rather remark able geological family connection, for while the stalactites are indi genous to a moist climate, saline matter is usually confined to one inclined to dryness. Throughout these mountains marbles abound, and present a great variety. The Kaolin clays, the alumine earths, and other minerals necessary to the arts, such as iron, copper, and lead, are found in innumerable places. Bituminous and anthracite coal are found in inexhaustible quantities, existing in mountain mas ses. The anthracite beds are directly accessible, requiring no sink ing of shafts, and there are no choke damps or gaseous explosions to be encountered in reaching it. But the most desirable resort about the city is the garden of Andalusia, owned by Don Alonzo Gomeres. A view of the city from this point presents a peculiar attraction ; and having been in the frequent habit of making sketches, my friend Cunningham here importuned me to present him a view of it, only a small por tion of the buildings of which were visible. The garden contains an enclosure of some three thousand acres, and every thing is upon the most magnificent and instructive plan. The plants are set at a convenient distance in rows, like a nursery, and grouped together in classes and families, according to the natural system of Jussieu. By each specimen, elevated on a small rod, is placed a silver label, on which is inscribed its botanical name and the country to which it belongs, with a character distinguishing whether it is annual, biennial, or perennial ; as also a black, red, yellow, or blue stripe across the top, denoting the plant to be poi sonous, medicinal, ornamental, or edible. Besides these smaller labels for each species, there were larger ones at the head of each class or tribe. Thus, commencing with the mushrooms, mosses, and other cryptogarnous plants, at the extremity of the enclosure, one can inspect row after row, gradually ascending to the proud est tree of the forest ; including in all, some fifteen thousand specimens of the vegetable kingdom. Here trees may be seen growing within trees, and in every wild, fantastic shape, which the ingenuity of both man and nature combined, could invent. Orange trees are stripped of their branches, then perforated through their whole length, and through the roots to the ground beneath ; then young plants of the jessamine, fig tree, rose and myrtle, are selected and arranged in twos or threes, according to fancy, and the size of the aperture in the trunk of the orange IN MEXICO. 61 tree, and passed through so as to reach a short distance above the top of the latter the roots are then covered with earth, watered and cultivated as if just planted. The tree and young plants then grow together, and will live ancf flourish for ten or fifteen years, presenting a most beautiful and novel appearance. In this garden I became acquainted with the celebrated huaco, an herb much distinguished for its medicinal virtues, and which is a certain antidote for poison. It belongs to the Gordonia genus; and is a pretty shrub, growing from one to two feet high, with leaves peiiolate, oblong, and toothed, shining above and pubescent beneath. The flower resembles that of the orange in both ap pearance and smell. The calyx has five unequal leaves, and the carolla has five spreading white petals like the rose. The first discovery of the medicinal qualities of the huaco is attributed to- a large bird that feeds upon snakes and reptiles in the savannas of the South. Many years ago the natives observed that this bird, called the Guayaquil, after a combat with a snake, would search for the herb and eat it ; hence they supposed it to be an antidote for poison, which experience has proved to be correct. An internal affection may be speedily cured by chewing the herb and swallowing the extract, while the extract is applied external ly to remedy the bite of the snake. The herb is also said to be an effectual cure in cases of hydrophobia ; and so highly appre ciated are its virtues, that a Mexican is seldom found travelling without it. The manufactures of Zacatecas are inferior to those even of its neighboring cities. A few coarse cotton and woolen cloths are made, but the chief interest of the people is attracted to min ing and merchandising. There are a number of potteries in the city, where a variety of wares are manufactured. The potters work in the open air, and shape their work with remarkable dex terity, on a simple wheel, horizontally arranged, and revolving close upon the ground, so as to permit them to sit, according to the custom of all lazy people. These wares are burned in large open ovens. They make tiles, and water and cooking pots ; but the finer wares, manufactured in other countries, are unknown to them. Their most curious article is a large vessel for holding grain, much the shape of a Chinese jar, and capable of containing several bushels. Among the better and more intelligent classes in the province of Zacatecas, may be numbered more enthusiastic admirers of our own institutions, than in any other state of Mexico. The federal or state rights party have ever been in the ascendency there, and cast the vote of the province, at the last presidential election, for Jose Maria Lafragua, the acting Governor, who was prompt in denouncing the measures of Santa Anna, as far back 62 DONNAVAN'S ADVENTURES as the Texan revolution. He is a man of some experience in government and political philosophy ; and although seduced by the rapid advancement ancj complete freedom of the United States, he would not countenance the dismemberment of the Mexican provinces ; while he frankly confesses that a want of intelligence and energy among his own countrymen renders them incompetent to sustain a compact similar in construction. There is a great difference between the condition of the United States, founded and established under the shelter of institutions approaching re publicanism, and that of the Mexican provinces, which have for three hundred years depended on a monarchical and despotic government. In the latter, democratic forms were new, and many of them opposed to the customs, habits, and inveterate preju dices of the people. In the former, little else was necessary but to vary the appointment of officers. Even the constitutional charters and laws of some of the former provinces of the United States, answered for the same when transformed into republican States. In Mexico it was necessary to change almost every thing which existed. There is nothing wonderful, therefore, in the an archy which has characterized their existence the laws were not adapted to the people. Mexicans who possess a knowledge of the world and of men, are fully apprised of these things; and it was a sense of the utter helplessness of their position, under a government without character or stability, that induced the Zaca- tecans to join Texas, in throwing off the yoke of a central and military despotism, to form an independent government. Less fortunate than their new neighbors, they then received a reproof, the details of which, for the credit of civilization, have never come to the ear of the world. With the bloody butcheries of Santa Anna and his forces in Texas, most of us have become somewhat familiar ; but of the dark and disgraceful cruelties which marked his advance through Zacatecas, we shall have no complete record. It was a most unhappy period, and if the sins of Sodom and Gomorrah were enough to sink those cities, I could not imagine a punishment the severity of which would be com paratively appropriate in Santa Anna's case. At the head of military and civil authority, he marched an army among his own people, not only to murder, but to outrage their hearths and altars. A father had no security that his daughter or wife would not be corrupted by the officers of his own country, by means of the terror which they inspired, and the influence which their situa tion imparted. Any officer, who wished to free himself from the importunate presence of a father or a husband, or who desired to get possession of his property, instituted a process against him as an insurgent, and was sure that his superiors would applaud his zeal in the service of Santa Anna. No case of this kind made a IN MEXICO. 63 more profound and lasting impression upon the inhabitants of Za- catecas, nor manifested more clearly the extent to which cruelty was carried, than that of Leonor Rovira. She was a young any handsome female, enthusiastically attached to liberty, favoring and giving aid to the oppressed patriots, and to those who, in the dark est hour had resolved to fly to the plains of Texas, from whence they hoped that freedom might yet come to their own province. She loved arid was beloved by a youth who had been an officer of the province, and was now compelled to serve as a common soldier, in the desolating army of Santa Anna. Through the in fluence she possessed over him, he was induced to desert, and fly to Texas. Leonor made arrangements for the flight of a number of other persons, of whom several were of the army. She pro cured exact statements of Santa Anna's forces, with lists of the names of patriots and other persons who could be trusted, all of which she transmitted to Gen. Houston. Her lover and his com panions were discovered and apprehended in their flight. The letters and other papers betrayed Leonor, who was with them thrown into prison. The cause was tried by martial law, and dur ing its progress this young female is said to have manifested much presence of mind and the most unshaken courage. She would compromise no one by her declarations, and the judges could not elicit from her any confession of the means by which she procur ed the statements sent to Texas. Finally, she and forty others were condemned by a council of war to the punishment of death, and to be shot in the back. She is said to have heard the sen tence with the utmost composure and tranquility, preparing herself for death like a Christian and a heroine and walking to the place of execution with a firm step, she bitterly reproached her murderers for their barbarous cruelty. And exhorting her com panions to die with the character and firmness of freemen, she an nounced, in a clear and audible voice, that her blood would soon be avenged by the deliverers of her oppressed and degraded country. She was shot in the principal plaza. Her constancy and courage astounded even the iron hearts of a rapacious sol diery, and the memory of her premature sacrifice has doubtless served to keep alive the burning embers of revolt in Zacatecas, to the present day. 64 DONNAVAN'S ADVENTURES CHAPTER VIII. Impending Difficulties Santa Anna at San Luis Potosi Priests heading Guerilla Parties Arrival of a Detachment from Santa Anna's Army Re captured by the Mexicans Arrest of Citizens of Zacatecas March to San Luis Potosi Mexican Soldiers, and their Manner of Enlisting City and Prison of San Luis Potosi Execution Mode of inflicting Capital Pun ishment Invitation to join the Mexican Army Our indignant Refusal Departure for Acapulco Estate of Joral Dolores City and Churches of Guanajuato. THE endearments of home and friends, the love one bears for his native land, and the partiality he feels for its institutions, can never be fully realized lill placed beyond their reach and influ ence. Then it is that the natural yearning of the heart will viv idly recall endearing associations ; and burying all the little ani mosities and faults he may find with our government when at home, he will be sensible only to its virtues and its blessings. It is a remarkable, though a very inconsistent trait, in the character of an American, that however much he may dissent, dispute, de plore, in the heat of party conflict at home, and even prophesy the impending ruins which are to be the inevitable result of each succeeding presidential election, let him hear the very same senti ments uttered in a foreign land, or the eternal permanency of his country's institutions for a moment doubted, and his indignation will have no bounds. In the true Yankee spirit, he will ever be found ready to " argue the question," by contrasts, which are always sure to redound to his ow.n advantage. We had been one week in Zacatecas. Although in the full en joyment of personal freedom, the circumstance of our release had lo some extent exasperated the authorities, and with no assurance of safety for any definite period, the approach of the American army was daily looked for with a great degree of solicitude. Santa Anna was at this time concentrating his forces at San Luis Potosi, only 190 miles distant, where he had arrived on the 8th of October. Our former captors had not been seen after holding a consultation with the priests and authorities, on the memorable morning of our release. Companies of soldiers and rancheros were to be seen in the streets, however, at almost any hour ; and Santa Anna having issued his most eloquent appeals to the clergy, many of them were induced to doff their sacerdo tal robes, for the time, and join in the last desperate struggle to retain their supremacy. The priests, ever jealous of their power and influence, even became so fanatical as to place themselves at the head of guerilla parties, raised in the neighboring mountains. IN MEXICO. Weak and apparently inactive as these bands at first were, the^y daily gathered new strength, till they began to assume a more in timidating character. Although formidable in point of numbers, the peace party had issued no pronunciamento, which is the first act preparatory to a revolution. They gave unreserved expres sion to their opinions, yet they assumed no attitude of open hos tility towards the authorities of the central government. Revolt was not surmised either by the friends or enemies of Santa Anna, and the avowed object of the guerilla bands was to join a division of his forces to be sent from San Luis Potosi in the event of Gen. Taylor's expected arrival. Those accustomed to a well-regulated government, seldom feel secure in Mexico, either in their persons or property ; and at this crisis many of those who had figured rather conspicuously in the peace party, would have evacuated the place, had not retreat been more hazardous than to remain. Their only hope, as well as our own, was in the advance of " Old Rough and Ready," who at that time would have been welcomed in a much more hospitable manner than he was at Monterey. On the 13th of November, the thunder of artillery announced the approach of an army, and it is impossible to portray the con fusion and out-bursts of enthusiastic rejoicing it created among all classes. The peace party hailed it as Gen. Taylor's anticipa ted advent, the authorities and clergy knew it to be a detachment from San Luis Potosi, while others, enveloped in total ignorance, shouted because the crowd did. The mystery was soon revealed, however, when the green roundabouts of the Mexicans became visible, and the army, over three thousand strong, under the command of Gen. Requina, marched into the city, and quartered on the principal plaza. It was soon ascertained that this force had been despatched by Santa Anna, to quell certain indications of revolt in the city of Zacaiecas, of which the clergy had promptly given him information. The night which followed was one of consternation and horror. It was just one month from the date of our captivity atCamargo, and one week after our release from the hands of cruel and un feeling tyrants at Zacatecas. With Dr. Hetzel, John Allman, Lucius Enfield, and George B. Gentry, all Americans, we were the first to be arrested. After the arrests commenced, many es caped through the gates, and took refuge in the neighboring moun tains, while hundreds of citizens were dragged from their homes, and placed under guard, to be tried as rebels, their property con fiscated and destroyed, and their sanctuaries entered and desecra ted by the rnob. The citizens, unarmed, could make no resist ance against a force which, including the guerilla bands, amounted to more than seven thousand men, had they been disposed to do 66 DONNAVAN'S ADVENTURES so, and they submitted to trial. Many were discharged, others were condemned to serve in the army ; while we, with six other Americans, were sent to San Luis Potosi, and again incarcerated in the common prison, with the most abandoned felons. If we had before held our lives by a precarious tenure, what could we now expect, after inciting almost a rebellion, and arous ing the indignation of Santa Anna himself. We had never en tertained a very flattering opinion of his humane disposition, and his former persecution of the Zacatecar.s, with a knowledge of his cruelty to the Texans, was poorly calculated to .elevate him in the esteem of any one. Approaching San Luis Potosi, from Zacatecas, we passed through the flourishing towns of Pinos, Ojocaliente, and Aguas- caliente, each containing some 12.000 or 15,000 inhabitants. Under a strong guard, we entered the city of San Luis Potosi, on the evening of November 19th, preceded by a large company of new recruits for the Mexican army. These recruits consisted of Indians, who had been forced from their homes and re quired to serve during the campaign. Their hands were bound to their backs, and they were paired off, and tied together. This is the manner in which the ranks of their army are filled, so that it is little wonder they express great surprise at our system of vol unteering. San Luis Potosi is situated in the valley of the Panuco, a river falling into the Gulf near Tampico, and which might be made nav igable for steamboats as far up as Tula, over one hundred miles from the mouth, and seventy miles below the city. In importance it is the second city in the republic in population the third containing 60,000 inhabitants. It is located in a rich mining region ; but from some causes these sources of wealth have been greatly neglected within the past ten years, and the attention of the citi zens directed more to manufacturing. The Panuco river afTords excellent facilities for manufacturing, which are to some extent improved. Woolen and cotton cloths, hats, boots and slices, and other articles, are here made for expor'ation to all the surrounding provinces. Some attention is also paid to education, and they have a magnificent college. The buildings of this institution, together with those of the mint, Governor's palace, and cathedral, present a commanding view. The buildings generally are inferior in size, and mostly constructed of stucco. The prison at San Luis Potosi is on a more extensive scale than that at Monclova, and includes within its walls a much larger fam ily. On the morning of the 20th of November, after remaining in the prison over night, we were all conducted to the gate, passing by the place of execution, in one corner of the large walled square, where the officers were fulfilling the ends of justice, by executing IN MEXICO. 67 a lot. of condemned criminals. There was so little ceremony at tending their operations, and such a carelessness about their man ner, that we did not dream they were performing the work of death. As our guard delayed to open the ponderous gate, however, and we saw them toss two dead bodies into rough looking boxes, placed on equally rough wagons with wooden wheels, we were apprised of the nature of their employment, and, indeed, began to think we might probably be the next victims. Their manner of inflicting capital punishment is more refined than in the United States. In the first place, they do not make a public spectacle of an execu tion. Within the walls of the prison enclosure, the condemned culprit is seated in a chair, when an iron collar is placed around his neck, made to expand or contract, as may be necessary. In the back part of this is inserted a sharp pointed spike, moved at pleasure by the executioner by means of a screw, and on turning which the spinal marrow is penetrated by the point, causing instant death. This ingenious machine, for the perpetration of legalized murder, is called the garotte. As we beheld this scene of dissolution between body and soul, we felt that the last ray was quivering upon the dial-plate of our own destiny. To be forcibly driven into the presence of Santa Anna into the very grasp of his insatiate soldiery, was enough to make us think seriously of preparing our last will and testament. But we had not yet suffered enough to glut their cruel propensi ties, and marching us to the barracks, they gave us to understand that we were to serve in the republican army of Mexico ! We all joined in thanking them for this rr ark of proffered promotion, but declined, stating that if they would spare our lives till the Ameri can forces commenced knocking at their gates, and they had any curiosity in seeing us fight, we might give them a specimen, by exercising our organs of combativeness under other colors. It was an insult that our sense of patriotism could not brook, and we felt it more keenly than all the outrages we had endured. Santa Anna did not make his appearance in person, but finding our resolution to place at defiance such a demand, irrevocably fixed, he sent his kitchen general (Requina) to inform us that we were to be immediately marched off to Acapulco. What object he could have had in view in sending us to that miserable place, has never revealed itself to me. Acapulco is a port of some im portance on the coast of the Pacific, nearly eight hundred miles from San Luis Potosi, and owing to the malignity of the climate, and the still more malignant character of the inhabitants, few who go there ever return alive. Through our new associates, who had been brought from Zaca- tecas, and who were to accompany us to Acapulco, we learned that Santa Anna had been informed by the clergy of the former 68 DONNAVAN'S ADVENTURES place, that we had been captured as spies. In no other way could we account for the apparent lenity by which our lives were pro longed, than to attribute it to their desire that the catalogue of our sufferings should be complete in this world, before being despatched on a mission to eternity. Accordingly, under new masters, commissioned by Santa Anna to guard us, we commenced our journey to the Pacific, on the 20th of November. Including the new accession from Zacatecas, our own party was now swelled to nine in number, while our guard, increasing in a greater ratio, consisted of forty-six, well-armed, able-bodied, and mounted men. We could not but think of the disappointment of poor Poco Llama and his rancheros, and although treated wilh more humanity, we almost regretted the transfer ; for we had abandoned all former hope of returning to our own country, and instead of expecting to be sold into slavery, with a prospect of being released at the termination of hostilities, we felt, as we plodded on towards the setting sun, that " Our hearts, like muffled drums, were beating Funeral marches to the grave." Thirty miles from San Luis Potosi we entered the dominions of the almost unlimited estate originally owned and occupied by the house of Jorol, of the Spanish nobility. This is represented to be the largest and most magnificent estate in Mexico. At the com mencement of the revolution, the amount of stock was reputed to number 350,000 head, and the tenantry engaged in cultivating the grounds to over 30,000 men. In extent of territory these posses sions will equal about four of our ordinary counties, and the single farm is larger than the State of Delaware. The unsettled policy of the country has driven the proprietor from his possessions, and the estate now bears evident marks of decay and dilapidation. Another immense hacienda is Dolores, the original seat of Hidalgo, the leader of the first revolutionary movement in Mexico. Near the centre of this estate, comprising some 20,000 square miles, is the town of Dolores, with a population of 7,000. Four days travel brought us to Guanajuato, on the Sierre Santa, the capital of the province of the same name, situated in the richest mining region of all Mexico, and containing 40,000 inhabitants. I have never seen a more quaint and singular city than Guanajuato. The street by which we entered the place is broad and straight enough for a Philadelphian, but the moment we left it and turned off into the narrow, hilly avenues, we were in a perfect labyrinth. They are so narrow and crooked that carriages can scarcely pass each other in the most of them. Our guard here took the precau- IN MEXICO. 69 tion to dismount, in order to convey us through the city in a hollow square sort of procession. In these narrow streets there are no side-walks, and but for the commanding appearance of our crowd, upon which all eyes were turned, we should have been crushed against the buildings by some lumbering diligence. Threading the tortuous and crowded lanes, we frequently came out upon some magnificent church, which if it could be made to stand apart from the world of small buildings, tumbled in together as if about knee- deep around it, would be regarded as almost a wonder of archi tecture ; and which even now, with the imperfect view which can be obtained, between unmannerly dwellings and ware-houses, charms the beholderl ike the glimpses of a fairy scene. Hurried through the city as we were, there was little opportunity to acquire much knowledge of its character or extent ; but 1 could not help notic ing the antique buildings, the unusually active and energetic pop ulation, and the strange dresses that were perhaps in the height of style about a century ago. Passing through the city to the sub urbs, we stopped for the night in a convent building, not exactly among the nuns, but with the padre of the place, whom we found remarkably hospitable and inquisitive. The heavy rains which commenced falling, detained us here till the middle of the follow ing day, when we left for Valladolid. CHAPTER IX, Arrival at Valladolid Curiosity of ike Citizens A French Publisher His History Another Sentence of Death Negotiation for our release " Bar gain and Intrigue " Sold into Slavery Mexican Charac 'er Our Price Dr. Barry A Mexican Printing Office Spanish Piinters El Republi- cano Support and Character of Mexican Newspapers. IN ten days we performed a journey of 310 miles, and arrived in the city of Valladolid on the evening of December 1st. 1846. The day had been the occasion of some religious festival, arid the streets and public houses were so thronged that our guard deter mined to confine us during the night in the city prison, that they might, unembarrassed, participate in the concluding ceremonies, which we understood were to consist of a fandango and mas querade. After a delegation had been despatched for the keeper of the prison, and to make the necessary arrangements for our security, many of the citizens crowded in the meson to get a sight at us. Had our guard been gifted with a little of that Yankee tact which 70 turns everything to count in the way of a " shilling," they might have made a handsome " speculation " by exhibiting us. The mar- vellousness of the natives was excited to a greater extent than is usually manifested by the boys of our own villages in the United States, when the " show-men come to town." Indeed, we were great lions, in our way, for few of the citizens of Valladolid had ever seen a Yankee, and they opened their eyes, as if determined this opportunity should not be unimproved. From among the crowd an elderly looking man emerged, and advancing, accosted us in unbroken English " Are you American citizens ? I had thought that that announcement was a free passport the world over." There was more meaning expressed in his countenance than in his words, and although his bearing was rather scornful, his English surprised us ; but as it was the first sentence we had heard uttered in our language beyond our own immediate circle, since we left Zacatecas, we did not attempt to evade his presence or his interrogatories. We replied, that had our memory ever been at all treacherous in regard to the place of our nativity, the contrast we had experienced in treatment since passing beyond its borders, was calculated forcibly to remind us that we had once been citizens of the United States. The old man seemed inclined to continue the conversation, and soon revealed the most important facts connected with his individ ual and somewhat eventful history. He stated that his fathers name, which was all he had inherited, was Mons. Buffam that he himself was a native of France, but had in early life emigrated to England. In 1835, he left England for the United States, and on landing at New York was so dissatisfied with its appearance, and the intense coldness of the climate, that he immediately sailed with a cargo of goods for San Bias, on the Pacific coast. Cruis ing around to the small English colony of Balize, he changed his destination to Acapulco, and anchoring in that harbor, at the time of the difficulties between Mexico and Texas, he found it an easy matter to purchase from the Mexican authorities a permit to im port goods free of duty. On returning with his second cargo, he learned at the custom house that his permit was worthless, as the former authorities had been deposed, after the battle of San Jacinto, and the new government was riot responsible for the pri vate contracts of the old custom house officers. He sold out his cargo at a sacrifice, and abandoning the mercantile business in 1839, he had settled down in the city of Valladolid, where he was engaged as one of the publishers of " El Republicano " news paper. In listening to him we manifested a degree of interest always gratifying to the narrator of events in which he is the masterspirit ; and when, in turn, we came to tell him that we had for several IN MEXICO. 71 years been connected with the newspaper press of the United States, and that two of us were practical printers by profession, he evinced symptoms of confusion and surprise for which we were at a loss to account. Our interview was abruptly closed, however, by the command of the guard, who gave us to understand that they awaited our company to prison. During the night arid on the day following, our guard indulged freely in pulque, and had become so " gloriously drunk " as to apparently lose all their distinguished consideration of us. To wards evening, however, our new acquaintance of " El Republi- cano," accompanied by his associate, Senor Gomez Peyrelades, a native Spaniard, and editor of the paper, visited and informed us, that the commander of our guard (Gen. Requina.) too beastly drunk to navigate himself, had ordered his men to conduct us from the prison one at a time, and deliberately shoot us down in the public plaza. They then consulted us in regard to our willing ness to serve them in the capacity of compositors, should they in tercede and procure our release as prisoners. We did not long hesitate in choosing between being shot, going to Acapulco, or taking " situations " in a printing office. In clinging to the latter " horn of the dilemma," we might possibly avail ourselves of an opportunity to escape, at least after the close of the war. After an absence of about an hour, during which time they held an interview with Gen. Requina, they returned and stated they had "come to terms " that they had paid $1,900 in considera tion of securing our services, for an indefinite period, and that if disposed to ratify the negotiation, we might signify our intentions by being conducted to the printing office. Here was a scene for philosophical reflection. We had often accused our brother editors of being " bought and sold." In the heat of party warfare we had been somewhat lavish in the use of such reproachful and disgusting epithets as " British Whigs " and " Bank-bought federalists." We had stigmatized our own coun trymen as being sold into the servile slavery of party ; and had reprobated the idea of " white slavery " in the most earnest man ner. But this was only the enthusiastic romancing incident to youth, led away by the tyranny of party discipline, in the excite ment of a heated political contest. We had now come to experi ence some of the realities of a purchased editor, and humiliating as was the " bargain and intrigue" to our native sense of justice, -we found ourselves transferred into unlimited bondage. It was useless that we should demand the authority by which such an outrage upon our own feelings, as well as all rules of civ ilization, was perpetrated. Power is the only authority recognized in Mexico, and if, as I have before remarked, men will sell their own souls, they will hardly hesitate to sell the bodies of their enemies. 72 The character of the great mass of that people may be assimi lated to that of a spaniel dog. Give them uncontrolled sway and they are cruel and inhuman but " the more you whip them the better they will like you " and when subdued, they are far more servile and humble than the negro slaves of our Southern states. Under all the circumstances, we had some reason to congratu late ourselves upon this change of masters. We had escaped from a second sentence to be shot down as common food for the more common buzzards, while we had substantial evidence of the esteem in which we were held by our new owners, from the round sum they had paid for us. It is quite natural, that, when a price is set upon a man's head, he is ambitious to bring as much as possible : and we consoled ourselves by a knowledge that we had sold for a greater amount than we could possibly have brought in our own country, even with a few dips in Etheopian die. [And here, although somewhat out of place, the author must be permitted to correct an erroneous statement which has appeared in the New York " Spirit of the Times," and the New Orleans " Delta," since his return to the United States. He has been "undervalued" by an article which appeared in those papers, and copied into various other respectable prints, asserting that he had been sold for the contemptible sum of $350 ! The mistake is no doubt an innocent one, yet it is calculated to detract from the value of a printer and for the credit of the craft, it should be understood that he not only sold for $950, but that his associate brought the same price.] Our mutual friend, Dr. Barry, being now left in confinement with the Zacatecan prisoners, suggested that he should consider it an especial favor if a similar disposition could be made of his per son to an apothecary, if " hereabouts he dwelt." In fact he pos sessed every requisite qualification for that place, according to the idea of the poet, for " Sharp misery had worn him to the bones ; " and there is but little doubt but that Gen. Requina would have gladly dispensed with all the prisoners on similar conditions, but it seemed we had supplied the demand. In a few days, after be coming sober, the entire company departed for Acapulco with the other prisoners, leaving Mr. Cunningham and myself to enter upon our life-apprenticeship in a Mexican printing office. The office, which occupied the third story of a large stone build ing, and is entered through a pylon, a court, and then a massive gate, was a perfect museum of curiosties to an American printer. The room was large and commodious, but filthy almost beyond description. In printing, as well as other arts, mechanics, and IN MEXICO. . 73 agriculture, the Mexican people are at least two centuries behind the age. Their type and presses, like their muskets, are generally the worn out and cast-off materials from Spain. The old Ram- age presses were so venerable they could scarcely stand alone,and at each successive revolution of the rounce their shrieks would grate upon the ear, as if exercise was as painful to them as to the Span ish printers who were torturing their poor old joints. There were two of these machines, each having a stone bed, and a ponderous weight, like a Dutch cheese press. The face of the type was barely visible, and it was with some difficulty one letter could be distinguished from another, while the body was worn as round as a rusty nail. Such an improvement as a roller had never been dreamed of, and the balls, long since banished from our western borders, there retain supremacy. An imposing stone has never invaded the original prerogative of the press bed, and an iron chase would be regarded as a retrograde movement in "the art preservative of all arts." The chases, sticks, and galleys, were all composed of wood, though being made of mahogany, they serve nearly as well as metal. The cases, instead of being mounted on stands, are spread out on the floor, as the Spaniard, being too lazy to take a perpendicular position, prefers to sit down, to set up type ; and on a filthy mat, thrown out upon the floor, he sprawls himself at his occupation, where he will sometimes succeed in setting three thousand ems per day. In making up a news paper form, the annuncios, or advertisements, are inserted promis cuously with the reading matter, without any such encumbrances as brass rule. The Mexicans are by no means a literary people, and they have few newspapers. " El Republicano " is a super-royal sheet, is sued daily, resembling in mechanical appearance, Ann Royal's " Huntress," more than any other sheet to which I can compare it. It is sustained by contributions from individuals and the gov ernment, and contains very little intelligence besides official an nouncements. Occasionally a horrible murder will adorn its col umns ; and it is a prevailing epidemic among the young people of the " upper ten," to give publicity to their amorous verses, gener ally stupid and j>rosy, but sometimes possessing the fire of poetry. 74 DONNAVAN'S ADVENTURES CHAPTER X. City of Valladolid Climate and Productions Volcano of Jorullo New Theory of the Gulf Stream Christmas Buildings in the City Customs of the inhabitants Matrimonial Intrigues Music Governor of Mechoacan, and his Plan of Warfare Ignorance of a Mexican Editor in regard to the United States Corwin's Speech Neivs of the Battle of Buena Vista Great Rejoicing Sentiments of the Masses. L'H.v, -jo? to I 3:10 rBif> 9rrir? r!.5<> *w l'of the 104 most mellifluous odors. Taking an easterly direction from Lobos, the vessel arrived at New Orleans on the 10th of June, where after an absence of fourteen months, and after travelling sixteen hundred miles through the interior of Mexico, I again found my self free, and on my native shores, quite satisfied with what I had seen of the elephant. I here learned that my friend Dr. Barry, with the Zacatecan prisoners, had made his escape from Acapulco that he had arrived in New Orleans some two months before me, where by letter he communicated to my friends the first information they received of our fate. It is presumed that Mr. Cunningham is yet where I left him, in Valladolid, amusing himself with the Spanish type, and the fair Policarpa ; at least I have had no in telligence from him, since the memorable night of my unceremo nious elopement. It may be thought strange that I did not attempt to facilitate his escape, at the time of my own departure. But the reader must recollect that I have already stated the fact of our occupy ing separate rooms, and in such an adventure I might myself have been detected. Besides, it was a question in mind, whether he would be willing to resign his dear senorita, for nothing so domes ticates a man as love. CHAPTER XV. Mexico Extent of Territory Soil Climate Maguey Plant Cochineal Vanilla Cotton and Sugar Potatoes Chili Timber Water Tobacco Commerce Conquest Revolution Independence Influence and Wealth of the Priesthood Santa Anna Gen. Almonte Gomez Farias Gen. Herrera Senor Jlleman Education The War Manner of Con ducting it Destiny. THE Republic of Mexico is composed of twenty provinces, or states Tamaulipas, New Leon, Coahuila, Chihuahua, Sonora and Sinaloa, Durango, Jalisco, Aguescalientes, Zacatecas, San Luis Potosi, Queretaro, Guanajuato, Mechoacan, Colima, Mexico, Pue- bla, Vera Cruz, Oajaca, Tobasco, and Chiapas. Besides these might be included the dependencies of New Mexico and Califor nia. In extent of territory, they may be compared to the states of our union, yet they are generally larger ; the whole extending from latitude 16 to 33 1-2, and forming a line of coast on the Pacific and Gulf of California, 3000 miles in length, bounded on the east and north by the Gulf of Mexico, and the Rio Grande. The dis tance from the shores of the Gulf to those of the Pacific varies IN MEXICO. 105 from 1000 to 1200 miles, including an area of some 1,600,000 square miles, and a population, according to their own estimate, of twelve millions. During his involuntary tour through the country, the author visited twelve of these provinces Tamaulipas, New Leon, Coa- huila, Zacatecas, Aguescalientes, San Luis Potosi, Guanajuato, Mechoacan, Q,ueretaro, Mexico, Puebla, and Vera Cruz, situated in the very heart, and richest region of the republic, and present ing every variety of surface, soil, and climate. The two great chains of the Cordillera mountains, the Sierra Madre and Sierre Santa, being a continuation of the Andes of South America, diverging from the isthmus, stretch across the country near its eastern and western borders, the former gradually diminishing in the hills of Coahuila, while the latter continues and cofmects it self with the Rocky Mountains of Oregon. Between these two great ranges, is included what is termed the table lands of Mexi co, at an elevation of from 4000 to 8000 feet above the level of the sea. These table lands comprise over three-fifths of the whole territory, and although varying in altitude, frequently stretch out in broad plains and prairies, unsurpassed in fertility of soil. There has been so much said and written in regard to the cli mate of Mexico, that little can be added which will not assume the appearance of repetition. Yet those who have been beneath its sunny skies and inhaled its balmy atmosphere, receive impres sions differing immaterially in the abstract, and degrees of admi ration ; while few can repress a disposition to record the emotions to which any warm and genial clime intuitively gives birth. In the construction of their dwellings, such an appendage as a chimney, or fire-place, is not thought of, and the very necessary and essential domestic duty of cooking is performed oat of doors, in the yard or streets. In the streets of all the cities, the eye meets the daily spectacle of the poorer, houseless and homeless part of the population, cooking their scanty fare, on small furna ces erected for the purpose. This, more than anything else, will serve to explain the nature of the temperature. The climate seems to be influenced more by altitude than lati tude, the three grand divisions of elevation above the level of the sea, presenting in all parts of the country about the same degree of temperature, and producing the same species of vegetation. Between Vera Cruz and Perote, a distance of one hundred miles, almost the same variety and gradation of climate will be observed as in travelling from the equator to the arctic circle, that is, if one have the curiosity to ascend to the snowy peak of Oriziba, near the latter place, the summit of which is covered with perpetual snow. Tierras Calientes includes the low lands on the coast, where 106 DONNAVAN'S ADVENTURES the climate is excessively hot, and adapted to the production of sugar, coffee, indigo, cotton, rice, cocoa, cochineal, oranges, ban anas, olives, and every variety of tropical fruits. To the decom position of the rank vegetable substances of this region is attrib uted the cause of the epidemic called vomitOj so fatal to the health and life of both natives and visitors. Tierras Templadas includes the vast table lands, in which the climate seldom varies more than ten degrees during the entire round of the seasons, and where one eternal spring reigns unbro ken. In less elevated portions of this region, most of the tropical fruits are produced, though it is better adapted to such growths as corn, maguey, tobacco, chili, peaches, cherries, melons, strawber ries, &c. Three and four crops of corn are here produced in one year, and as a consequence, it is cultivated to a greater extent than any other grain, affording the chief article of food for the population. Green corn is to be seen as well in December, Janu ary, and February, as in June, July and August. Tierras Frias is the still higher region, or mountain slopes, and subject to greater variations of temperature. Wheat, rye, oats, barley, potatoes, &c., constitute the chief productions of this di vision, which is usually covered with large oak and pine timber, as high as twelve thousand feel above the level of the sea. Among the most remarkable productions of Mexico, with which we are unfamiliar in the United States, may be mentioned the maguey plant and cochineal. The maguey is produced in every degree of temperature, and is uninjured by heat, cold, or drought. In the best soil, it grows to an enormous size, from twenty to thirty feet high, and will often measure around the trunk as much as three feet in circumference. It generally arrives to maturity in five years, in the tierras calientes, but in the tierras frias it sel dom ripens short of twenty years. After flowering, the top is cut off, the soft substance or pulp removed from the interior, so as to form a kind of bowl, in which daily accumulates some two gallons of mucilaginous acid, during a period of five or six months. Upon fermentation, this becomes what is termed by the natives pulque, and which, by a process of distillation, is made into whisky. The population in many districts, where there is no water, use this only, as a beverage. At first, it has a most disgusting taste, and still worse smell, but one will soon become accustomed to it. From the fibrous substance contained in the bark and leaves of the ma guey, paper, ropes, and even clothing are sometimes manufactured. The root when properly prepared, is a most palatable and nutri tious diet ; while the thorns of its leaves serve as pins for the ladies' garments. The maguey is regarded as the most profitable growth in the country ; and where alone cultivated, on extensive haciendas, often yields a yearly income to the proprietors of fifty thousand dollars. IN MEXICO. 107 Cochineal is a production of the nopal, a plant of the cactus species, which is cultivated in rows, like Indian corn. On every leaf of the nopal is pinned a short piece of hollow cane, in which a number of the insects are confined, where, as they multiply, the young ones crawl out and take up a permanent residence on the leaf of their nativity, upon which they feed. At the close of the dry season, these insects are brushed from the dead leaves, and dried. The cochineal is an insect little larger than a common tick, and in early times was supposed to be the seed of the plant it is used in dyeing silks, for which the female is alone valuable, and is in some of the provinces of Mexico extensively raised for exportation. Vanilla, which is used in the manufacture of choco late, and various luxuries, grows spontaneously. The table lands of Mexico will produce almost every species of vegetation, in a higher state of perfection and greater abundance than any other portion of the North American continent ; yet se duced by the great wealth of her mineral resources, the population bestow little attention upon agriculture. Cotton and sugar will, doubtless, at some future day, form the staple productions of these lands, which, with the exception of an occasional sandy desert, under proper cultivation, might be made to yield abundant har vests. As yet, neither of these articles have been grown to a suf ficient extent to supply the home demand the cotton crop never exceeding 90,000 bales. The low lands are well adapted to the production of rice, and if ever cultivated extensively, will perhaps be appropriated to that purpose. What is usually called the Irish potatoe, is a native of Mexico, and was first found there after the discovery of America. It has a prolific yield, but the varieties are not so numerous as in this country, where attention has been given to its improvement and culture. Chili, the small red pepper, grows spontaneously, and is also cultivated as an indispensable article of diet. An almost incon ceivable amount of it is consumed by the inhabitants, who devour the pods by the dozen, in their primitive state, besides using it in nearly every dish they eat. In most regions the timber is of a low, shaggy growth, though groves of pine, cedar, cypress, and oak, are often to be found grow ing as large as in any country. Such a spectacle as a rail fence never meets the eye the inclosures all being made of hedge, for which most of the stunted, thorny growth, and maguey, seems pur posely adapted, the contrast between the long lines of deep tangled shrubbery and vines, decked with wild flowers, and the dull, lifeless- looking rail fences of the United States, deeply impresses one with admiration for the former. 1 was not prepared to find water so plentiful as it really is, from 108 DONNAVAN'S ADVENTURES the accounts I had previously read of the country ; and in only one instance, during our entire journey, did I suffer from thirst. This was in a sandy desert in Coahuila, where we found no water in three days' travel. Rain seldom falls in Mexico except in July, August, and September ; these months are called the rainy season, during which time a large amount of water fa-lls in showers, or steady rains, of almost daily occurrence. As a consequence, arti ficial irrigation becomes necessary, but there are few districts of any considerable extent which could not, by the construction of simple hydraulic works, be sufficiently supplied with water, the only ma nure required, to produce at least one hundred and fifty bushels of corn to the single acre, annually. Tobacco is produced in large quantities, in many of the provinces, but this is a government monopoly, the leaf, when cured and baled, being purchased of the growers at a price fixed by the government. It is collected in warehouses in the different districts, and conveyed to the capital, where a segar manufactory, sufficiently extensive to supply that article to the whole population, is carried on under the supervision of the government. Notwithstanding the immense wealth of the country, its com merce is limited and diminutive. Its chief exports are confined to the precious metals, furnished from some twenty or thirty mining districts, and which have produced annually from $20,000,000 to $25,000.000 in gold and silver. An inconsiderable trade has been carried on in the article of cochineal, indigo, logwood, jalap, and vanilla, but including all, the annual exports have never risen above $20,000,000, while the imports have never exceeded $ 15,000,000. Owing to the vascillating character of the government, and the in ordinate thirst for gold, which has always characterized its officers and people, and which still exists, an immense contraband trade, so fatal to legitimate commerce, is kept up, under every change of rulers. Large amounts of bullion from Zacatecas and other mining districts, are smuggled out of ports on the Pacific, while various articles of merchandise from foreign countries are received with unblushing impunity, through the bribery and the infidelity of cus tom-house officers, whose ideas of " tariff" and " free trade " are of such convenience as generally to conform to their own interests. The precise amount of the population of Mexico is difficult to determine. At present the inhabitants estimate it at from ten to twelve millions, though no census has been taken for a number of years. The population is made up of almost every color. The pale face maintains its aristocracy among all, although the negroes are allowed to vote. Few of the male population are to be found without the tinge of a fair mulatto, though his blood be pure, which is attributed to the influence of the climate and atmosphere. The ladies of pure blood are often very nearly as fair as our own. The IN MEXICO. 109 white population is not numerous, and will not amount to over one million in the whole country. Descending one degree below the white is the Mestizoe, made up of a great variety, white, Indian, and negro. Of this class there is over three millions. Next is the Zamboo, a progeny of the Indian and negro, which class, with the Indians, negroes, and quarteroons, make up the balance of the pop ulation. Of the negro race there is not over one hundred thousand, while the Indians, who are often the best citizens of the country, number five millions. The difference in the dialects of the people in the different provinces, is about the same as that in the shires of England and it is sometimes with difficulty that they can under stand each other. It has been no part of the author's object to enter into the early history of Mexico. To those who desire such a work, reliable in fact and detail, he would recommend that of the great historian, Preseott. The early conquest of Mexico by Cortez is a dreamy story even of school-boy days. The city of golden idols, hu man hecatombs, a populous empire, and the overthrow of the un fortunate Montezuma, has often risen up to our vision like the incredible and enchanted scenes of the Arabian Knights. The country was "then inhabited by the aborigines, who had so far ad vanced in civilization as to build a greater and more splendid city than now occupies its place the work of their conquerors. In 1521, when Spain in her turn, enjoyed her proud supererogative of power, the banners of her cross floated in triumph from the heathen temples of the natives, who, knowing nothing better or sublimer to adore, worshipped the sun, as their more enlightened but heart less invaders did the living God. For three hundred years her power thus attained, was acknowledged and respected in the colony by a people, who, accustomed only to the tyranny of rulers, and living in an enervating climate occupying a country whose wealth was beyond computation were lured into ease and luxury who, with no impetus to stimulate their energies, and mingling promiscuously with the aborigines, gradually retrograded in the scale of intelligence, till they began more to represent the natives they had vanquished, than the conquerors from whom they were descended. That there were exceptions men who thought and felt that their country was retrograding, rather than advancing with the spirit of the age and times, is doubtless true but they were allied more to the slavery of the church, than to civil liberty. Stim ulated by some motive, for the purity of which his own soul is perhaps responsible, in 1810, the slight murmurs of insurrection which were kindling to a flame, burst into open revolt through Don Minguel Hidalgo, a Catholic priest of Dolores ; who, at the head of a large army, raised under the standard of the " Virgin of Guadaloupe," commenced the work which finally resulted in eman- 110 DONNAVAN'S ADVENTURES cipating his country from the thraldom of Spanish rule. He met the fate which all the pioneers in a great cause are almost certain to encounter. After a short career, in which his success was bril liant, he was betrayed and beheaded. Other Generals arose in his place, among whom may be mentioned Morelos, Guerrero, Victoria, and Matamoras, and for a period of nearly three years a fierce and sanguinary war pervaded the whole land. But from 1813 to 1820, peculiar circumstances operated to retard the progress of the country towards independence, to lengthen out their struggle with Spain, and to produce opposite parties, divisions in sentiment, chi merical or false principled notions, and even the horrors of civil war itself. The vast territory was, and is even yet, thinly inhabited, by a population confined principally to the towns and cities, then divided into capitanias, or viceroyalties, having little or no mutual com munication, or means of concerting combined resistance to Spain. The people themselves, as a body, being deplorably ignorant, and divided into numerous castes, all of whom opposed each other, either from feeling or interest, could not unite in a common cause. Yet they had all contracted a habit of obeying Spanish princes : for no where had the maxim of passive obedience and the divine right of' kings been so earnestly inculcated by all the power of the priesthood. Second only to the clergy, in means of influence, were the Castilians, or European Spaniards, whose power and riches were, of course, actively engaged in sustaining the author ity of Spain ; and by engrossing all the important offices, they deprived the Creoles, or those of Mexican birth, of any opportunity for obtaining the required qualifications for public employments. Such are the gradual encroachments of tyranny, tamely submitted to, that were it unrestricted by a mightier power, would steal away both body and soul. Besides, Mexico had so long enjoyed a pro found peace, that its inhabitants possessed little more military knowledge than did the Aztec race, whom their ancestors had de throned. They were even destitute of arms and munitions of war ; all these being in the arsenals of the government, or in the hands of the small body of troops, which it maintained in convenient stations upon the sea-coast. Owing to these unfortunate circum stances in their condition, they had the whole structure of inde pendence to begin from its very foundation. Those who are familiar with the history of the revolution in Mexico, and in the several governments of South America, will readily call to mind the untoward events produced by the circumstances here adverted to. Yet in the dark hours of their adversity, the free world did not fail to sympathize with them, and numbers of our own country men left their homes and firesides to join them in their struggle for independence. In fact, perhaps no other circumstance exer- IN MEXICO. Ill cised so powerful an influence to prompt the thinking and well informed inhabitants of Mexico to long for liberty, as the example of the United States of North America. It was truly a most bril liant and alluring spectacle, that of a new people rending asunder the strong ties that had bound them to England, and who had rendered themselves independent who, organized as a great re public, enjoyed the most perfect liberty which man can possess in the social state who, under wise and beneficent institutions,had prospered and augmented with astonishing rapidity who, in fine, were Americans, more recently settled on the continent than those who held the soil in Mexico, and who seemed destined to the same high career with their brethren of the North, could they but estab lish their independence of Spain. It was impossible that these ideas should not spread with celerity among intelligent Mexicans, and that they should not prepare the elements of a wide confla gration. After a struggle of eleven years, through the disorganization of the mother country itself, Mexico became independent inde pendent of Spain, yet their emancipation brought with it little else than confusion and anarchy. The want of intelligence, of popu lation, of resources, made several provinces mere dead limbs for a union, even had one been contemplated ; and a Central govern ment, entitledthe " Plan of Iguala," was adopted ; and through dissensions among the demagogical leaders of factions, Iturbide, by his own intrigues, sustained by the influence of the church, as cended the throne. He had not long worn his " royal robes," however, till in his turn he was compelled not only to abdicate his place, but was banished from his country, and finally executed on his return in 1824. In the same year, what is called the federal constitution was adopted, modelled principally from that of the United States, excluding the provision which recognizes the right of trial by jury, and establishing a provision recognizing the Cath olic as the only religion of the country. It entitles all citizens of whatever grade or color, to the right of suffrage yet this is a mere formality a mockery to the sovereignty of the mass, where the church wields the supreme power. The priesthood of Mexico, including the monks and nuns, amounts to about ten thousand persons, and the combined wealth of the clergy is estimated at $200,000,000. No chapel dedicated to any other faith is to be found or suffered to exist in the country, and the Catholic priest hood have unlimited control of both soul and body. Owning more than half of the property and wealth of the country, they are of course entitled to the exercise of the privilege entailed upon their possessions, of giving to the people their manners and morals ; and to their examples in the cities, may be justly attributed many of the vices which prevail among their ignorant followers. To repeat 112 DONNAVAN'S ADVENTURES here the profligate indulgences attributed to the city priesthood, would be too great an infringement upon all rules of modesty ; yet their licentiousness is no more a secret there, than the open and unblushing manner in which they visit the degraded haunts of gaming houses, cafes, and other resorts of infamy, to sanction their corruptions and participate in their amusements. It is proper here to remark, that the curas or country clergy, sustain quite the opposite character from their city brethren ; and besides being pious and devotional in their habits, exercise a kind of monitorial supervision over those placed under their pastoral charge, and who regard them with a high degree of veneration asking and following their advice in all things. Indeed, the con duct of many of the curas is characterized by a degree of gene rosity and kindness to the poor, worthy to be imitated in our own enlightened land. It is a great mistake in those who have propagated the idea, that the clergy of the city of Mexico court the approach of the American army as a means of security to their church treasures. If there is anything sacred in the eyes of a Mexican, (a problem which has not yet been satisfactorily solved,.) be he ranchero, brigand, or lepero,Jit is his religion and the property of his church. Whatever may have been the revolutions whatever may be the church has been, aud will continue to be, sa^fe from direct spoliation. We may talk as we please of Mexico, and sticklers entertaining circumscribed views, may deplore as they will her loss of inde pendence and nationality yet what is that independence, what that nationality ? The only independence studied is, how to live independent of labor, while their nationality is in the hands of demagogues, entertaining no sympathy for the ignorant mass, and who would sell their country, rather than submit to innovations recognizing an equality of rights. In looking upon the Mexican race as it now exists, knowing nothing of it, one would be tempted to ask, by what accident of birth or circumstance they exhibit so gro tesque a character in so serious a drama at'first contending for empire and honor, then for independence and nationality ! This apparent inconsistency is all explained, however, upon acquiring a knowledge of their condition. Their government, as it has ever been, since the date of the revolution, is without energy without stability destitute of moral honesty and mteans. Party spirit, unlike the cool and calculating collisions of sentiment which often agitate our own body politic, divides her citizens discord waves her incendiary torch anarchy and confusion exist among them selves, and their soldiery are left unprovided and uncared for ; as the church, being the treasury, can make no disbursements till it ascertains which is the stronger and most likely to succeed of the IN MEXICO. 113 factions. The monster, party spirit, so rocked and cherished in the cradle of their revolution, is now grown to full manhood, and convulses all who are at all susceptible to such influences ; and the invasion of their territory, which should bring out all the patriotic energies of man, has best convinced the world of their weakness, egotism, cowardice, and truculence, according to the various changes of the scenes. Santa Anna has long been the ruling spirit of the land, and with all his cruelty and pomposity, possesses a stronger intellect and a more perfect knowledge of the nature and disposition of his people, than any man in Mexico. His prominent trait of charac ter has seemed to be to create expectations which he never intend ed to fulfil ; but possessing the tact to turn every thing to his ad vantage in the end, has been the secret of his success. He is known to be a deceiver; yet he knows how to deceive. And where there is a total lack of confidence in all, the choice among rogues generally devolves upon the most accomplished among them. Gen. Almonte, who was arrested and confined in prison last May, in his own country, on a pretended charge of having com promised his position, by making certain disclosures and overtures to the United States, is the first, in point of ability, and perhaps the only honest public man in Mexico. Almonte has spent much of his life in the United States, and was long the Minister of Mexico to our government at Washington. He is the illicit, son of Morelos, one of the most distinguished of the revolutionary Generals, who fell in the defence of his country. His intellect is highly cultivated, and he possesses all the qualities of a polished gentleman. Gomez Farias, the scenes of whose life and career have been chequered with events much after the fashion of Santa Anna, is a man of deep thought. The cause of his being superceded by Anaya, as Provisional President, was owing to his proposition to tax the church property. Had he been sustained in making his proposed levies, the Mexican government would have presented a more vigorous resistance at Vera Cruz a more numerous and better provided army at Buena Vista a more effective plan and a more vigorous defence at Cerro Gordo and altogether a far more serious resistance than has attended the overthrow of Farias and his plans. Gen. Herrera, recently a prominent candidate for the Presi dency, is a great favorite of the church party, and in the absence of Santa Anna, would doubtless exercise a controlling influence. During the canvass,. he was represented as the peace candidate, but would in the event of his elevation be subject to the control of the clergy. 114 DONNAVAN'S ADVENTURES Senor Aleman is among the most influential men in the country, especially among the priesthood, over which he exercises almost absolute control. Reports were currently circulated, that Aleman, in behalf of the church, had op'ened a correspondence with the European powers, in regard to forming an alliance, by which some prince from the other side of the water, was to be elevated to the throne of Mexico. Reports and surmises of this character, are often the creations of political speculators ; though this was suffi ciently plausible to receive general credence, and seemed to sur prise no one in Mexico. Generals Ampudia, Arista, Ricon, Bravo, &c., are men of cred itable capacities, but possess none of those prominent traits of char acter calculated to distinguish them, with all their opportunities. Generals Sallus, Valencia, Requina, and a host of others, con stitute the third class of the " great men " of the republic, and who have perhaps never imbibed an idea beyond their individual preferment and egotistical self-conceit. It should not be supposed that among the private circles of so ciety in Mexico, there are no men of cultivated manners, refined taste, and profound intellect. This would be an anomaly indeed, in a population of at least 10,000,000. As profound scholars,as accomplished gentlemen, and as hospitable hearts, may here be found, as in almost any quarter of the globe ; yet their number is comparatively limited, and out of the entire population, perhaps not one hundred thousand, or one of every one hundred, can read. Here lies the great secret of their misfortunes. And it is not an uncommon spectacle in all the cities, to see among the multitudes who crowd the streets, confidential scribes, supplied with a stool and writing apparatus, whose business it is to indite letters to order for the ignorant population, who keep them profit ably employed. There are no schools for the mass ! Under such a state of things what apparent folly it seems to be, among our tenacious politicians of any party, to grieve about the dismemberment of a neighboring republic ! However the war may terminate, God has doubtless designed it for the accomplish ment of his own high purposes. If any part of those purposes be to open a new era upon this China of the new world, it is already accomplished in embryo. That philanthropy which would pre scribe the blessings of enlightened liberty to certain limits, deserves not the name ; and there is a narrow selfishness far behind the age, in the policy which would justify us in the tame enjoyment of the freest government on earth, while our nearest neighbors are sunk in the very depths of ignorance and vice not even per mitted to choose a God to worship ! That the war has cost treasures, perils, and lives, no one will deny yet it will produce new treasures, happiness, and new life ! IN MEXICO. 1 15 The justness or the injustice of the war is a fit subject for pol iticians to quarrel about, and may be decided by those whose knowledge of international law will qualify them to render a satis factory verdict ; though the propriety of arguing the question, and openly advocating the cause of the enemy during the existence of hostilities, may be doubted. The expediency of such a course of conduct is certainly ques tionable ; for an enemy who knows nothing of our institutions, and who very naturally judges the dispositions of men and governments by comparisons at home, arrives at the very plau sible conclusion, that serious dissensions exist ; and but for this simple fact, there is little doubt that the war, so much regretted by these very men, would now have been terminated. Like most foreigners, they misconceive the nature of our institutions. They are not aware that our internal battles consist only of a " war of words," and that an American editor or representative may give free utterance to his individual views, while reason and the fiat of an intelligent constituency are left free to combat and correct them. Very different is the state of things in Mexico ; while dissensions really exist among her people, nothing is to be heard but vapor, boast, aud fume, and to read their manifestos, the natural conclu sion would be that they are the most warlike and unconquerable people under heaven. Those who really favor peace, and in truth a large portion of the better class would rejoice in the occupation of the country by our people seldom give audible utterance to their sentiments fearing that they might be reasoned with in a rather summary manner. Hence, those ignorant of the facts, conclude that there is no peace party in Mexico, and that the voice of all is for open war. Their papers and proclamations are filled with predictions of future victories, to the utter exclusion of present defeats, and while they seem, with one accord and one heart, to proclaim their own invincible determination never to surrender, they seldom face their adversaries, and never without disastrous defeat. To one who has been over the battle-grounds, traversed the in terior country, suffered with the many who have suffered, and become familiar with all the important circumstances of the present war, the manner in which it has been conducted presents itself without a single mark of sagacity. It would seem that it had been prolonged for no visible object, except to create patron age for partisans ; though for the credit of humanity such a mo tive should not be attributed to its prosecutors. It is much easier to prophesy after we have been apprised of events which are to transpire, and one can look back upon his errors with far greater facility than he can distinguish and avoid them in the future. But the policy of sending two small armies into the wild regions 1 16 DONNAVAN'S ADVENTURES of New Mexico and the Rio Grande, without a sufficient force to retain possession of the country after it was conquered, and for the apparent object of affording only an opportunity for brilliant exploits, in conquering a half-barbarous race, and then leaving them to resume their power and places, is totally inexplicable, both before and after its adoption. When hostilities first commenced, the true wisdom of legisla tion would have suggested the raising of fifty thousand volunteers, who were then offering their services to the government in count less regiments ; all of whom could have been landed at Vera Cruz in October, (1846.) Such an army, levying contributions on the country for its support, might have marched at once to the capital, and subdued the country at half the cost, both in blood and treasure. Instead of such a vigorous prosecution of the war to a speedy termination, a sort of tampering policy has been pur sued, and our forces have moved with a degree of tardiness, in ducing one to forget that Napoleon had so recently instructed the world in the art of warfare. These halting, timid, undetermined movements, inspire the enemy with renewed confidence ; and after a continued conflict of nearly twenty months sufficient time for us to have whipped all Europe Mexico bids fair to ex hibit one of those horrible catastrophes which stand out boldly and distinctly in the annals of human calamity. The agitaied con dition of the country since 1810, has bred her public men in the school of turmoil, and they have learned to look upon scenes of blood with comparative complacency. With their last hopes staked, they may not be deterred by any consideration of social consequences ; and with an object akin to that of the desperado, they would cheerfully blow up the strongholds of our army as they enter, and involve in one common ruin the conquerors and ' the conquered. There is much speculation in regard to the result of the present war, and notwithstanding little doubt hangs over the final issue, the proclamation of a guerrilla warfare, giving authority to every score of ruffians to concert their own plans, make their own attacks, and murder without regard to age, sex, or condition, may prolong it to an almost indefinite period, unless a new degree of energy shall be infused into the American forces. But it requires no extraordinary gift of prophecy to foretell the consequences that are inevitably to result they can be none other than the subjugation of the country. Mexico is already by the hand of fate blotted out of the list ok nations. The lamp which lit up the brief hour of her independence is burnt down to the socket ; and whether " annexed " to this Union or not, torn and divided by intestine commotions, she can never withstand the shock which will not only depose her military despots, but IN MEXICO. 117 arouse her people from the Rip Van Winkle slumber of their ig norance. He who thinks that a lasting and beneficial peace can be made with that country, knows little of Mexico, or of her peo ple he starts in his belief from false premises and judges of a race by the ordinary rules which govern mankind when it is notorious that they have ceased to regard all such rules, and have hurled at them utter defiance. The growing greatness and energy of the Anglo-Saxon race, which is destined speedily to overrun the whole of North Ameri ca, will soon occcupy the vast tierre tempalades of Mexico. And they will carry liberty with them not in name, but in fact and the influence of their example will impart a tone of vigor to the efforts even of the humblest individual. They will give con fidence to thought, and energy to action. This is by no means a visionary speculation, but will be realized, as in the natural course of events things assume the shape of realities ; and before ten years shall transpire, steam cars, which would be regarded by the present population with as much wonder as was the thundering artillery of Cortez by the natives, will take the place of their car avans of pack-mules ; and " Yankee clock pedlars," instead of guerrilla bands, will throng the mountain paths of the Cordilleras. Our people will have seen its resources, and there can be no re straint placed upon their enterprise. Under the control of the United States, or the Anglo-Saxon, and in the full enjoyment of liberty and security, its extended plains, which now repose in peace, would stretch out before the eye like gardens magnified immeasurably. The loneliness of the vast forest, consecrated for ages to solitude and God, would echo the voices of new and more ardent admirers of their never-dying foliage. Its cities would swarm with active arid industrious New England mechanics, the music of whose implements would wake the slumbering energies even of the dull and plethoric peon. A canal, connecting the two great oceans, would stretch across the isthmus of Tehuantepec, concentrating within the Northern hem isphere the commerce of the globe. Through the huge and rugged mountains, that rise up like stepping-stones to heaven, railroad cars would roll with the lightning's speed, the rich treas ures of the land to the lap of trade. And as the soul of the sunny clime became steeped in sublime thought, which the bound less and magnified variety of its natural scenery is fitted to call into being when the heart is entirely imbued with the influence of republican institutions, and when the mind of this land, springing from its new myriad sources, shall grow up from its present night of infancy to manhood, glowing with an ardent perception of the unrivalled beauties of the clime, it will burn on, bright and un- wasting, forever ! 10 '..'!; if. J* APPENDIX, ALL people, whatever their condition, seem to require amusement and recreation of some kind, and it is too often the case, in the selection of subjects to gratify this natural desire, that the passions, more than the under standing, are appealed to. Especially in our own land of self-government, where pleasure and public virtue are commensurate with cultivated taste and intelligence, should we seek to combine instruction with amusement, in our public entertainments. And few will undertake to dispute the salutary influence exercised by a familiarity with meritorious works of art, in chastening the understanding and purifying the sentiment. No system of education is commendable that does not combine the development of cor rect taste that does not impart a just conception of the true, the beauti ful and the real, in nature and art, and thereby exalt our perceptions of excellence fit us for the appreciation of the inexhaustible stores of de light and enjoyment that creation in her prodigality has thrown around us. Persuaded by this conviction, and that while useful to himself, he might be in strumental inpromoting intelligence, and the consequent happiness of others, the author of the preceding pages, determined to illustrate such events, and delineate such points as have been rendered interesting to the public from the exciting circumstances that transpired during the recent war with Mexieo. Of the causes of that war, now happily termi nated, its expediency, 'justice or injustice, he has nothing to remark. Which party was the aggressor, the pedants of diplomacy may decide. Nor ha A it been so much his object to portray either the glories or horrors of conflict, as to preserve the views of the battle-grounds, delineate the geographical resources of the country, its natural scenery, architecture, and diversified botany. The lines pursued by the two chief divisions of the American Army have been chosen for representation, because the reminiscences connected with those regions impart to them a greater de gree of interest than other places, known to us, perhaps, only by their almost unpronounceable names. These, however, comprise only about two-thirds of the painting ; the other views being located on the route pursued by the author and his companions, an account of whose captivity and adventures is contained in the foregoing pages. The natural scenery of Mexico abounds in all the gorgeousness the most poetic imagination could conceive ; which, with the memory of the 118 APPENDIX. 119 many strange deeds of renown, marking both her ancient and modern history, have thrown around her borders a charm more dreamy and indis tinct than those which cluster about the classic vales of the olden world. Upon both lands has the Creator lavished the indelible imprints of beauty ; yet while poetry and historic association have consecrated the memory of the one, they have left but faint and glimmering traces of light upon the other. There is a strange coincidence in the almost simultaneous opening to the nations of the earth, the China of the old world and that of the new. Until recently our knowledge, not only of the original half- civilized proprietors of the soil, but even of the more modern race of Mex ico, has been vague and unsatisfactory. Not till the traditions of the for mer were to be realized by the latter, were our people permitted to tread upon a land, whose whole history abounds in the wildest romance of heroic achievement. Still paler faces have gone from the north and conquered the conquerors of the Montezumas. Almost the same route trod by the Spanish cavalier three centuries since, as a superior being, sent from a better sphere, has been retraced by the Anglo-Saxon ; and whether it ultimately prove for the interest of mankind or not, manifest destiny seems suddenly to have brought us in direct collision and more familiar communication with a people to whom we have been comparative stran gers. These considerations could not fail to suggest the interest with which a painting, presenting the bold and beautiful features of a land so little known, would be received by the public. The proprietor has often re gretted that he did not commence his sketches before reaching Zacate- cas, as the reader will find described in the foregoing work several points, the representation of which would have added additional interest to the panorama. But in the hopeless capacity of a captive, his thoughts were otherwise occupied, until severe suffering had taught him something of practical philosophy. Besides, any considerable addition to the already extensive painting, would have precluded the possibility of exhibiting the whole during one evening. As a work of art, it does not here become the proprietor to speak of this production. In that respect, he leaves the painting to tell its own story ; yet, lest he should appear ungrateful, he is candid to confess that its flattering reception, both by the press and the public, has been a source of pride to him. As the circumstances under which it was produced may not be wholly uninteresting to the reader, the following articles relative to the personal histor}' and adventures of the proprietor are subjoined. Immediately on his return to the United States, after an absence of over fourteen months, seven of which were spent in captivity, the fact was communicated by a friend to the editor of the " New Orleans Delta," in which paper of June 12th, 1847, the following editorial article appeared : 120 APPENDIX. 44 AN AMERICAN EDITOR SOLD TO THE MEXICANS." "That editors are often bought and sold, in these days of accomplish ed political profligacy and intrigue, few persons possessing common sagacity, will undertake to dispute. The price we presume varies in accordance with the influence and position of the particular journal sought to be subsidized from " fifty-two thousand " down to a " mess of pot ash." Uninitiated as we of course are, in the Free Masonry of politics, the process of negotiation is Greek to us. We feel inclined however to accord to the age sufficient refinement to impart to such transactions an air above the dull commerce of mere business To say, " what's your price ?" would be a barbarous vulgarism, fit only for the Turk who is permitted to deal in the transparent flesh of the Circassian maiden, or the senorita of Mexico. Among the wire pullers of politics there is a nicer perception of politeness assuming relationship to the timid shyness which characterizes the courtship of our early days ; and we infer that advances are made something in this wise : " A friend of the Administration, near the expiration of the ' one term,' for which its chief came into power, disinterested in his devotions to the ' principles of the constitution, ' but who rather than behold the republican system subverted, might be induced to accept a foreign mis sion, more to 4 carry out the principles of the government,' than in con sideration of the nine thousand dollars outfit, calls at the sanctum of the editor of the ' Independent Republican.' After being seated, and the usual compliments are exchanged, the special, yet disinterested agent of the administration, should he see his way clear, will perhaps throw out a feeler, before even intimating the slightest disposition to pocket a receipted bill for his last year's subscription. ' Really, my dear sir, you must par don me, but I cannot forego an acknowledgment of the exquisite pleasure your Series of Articles entitled the 4 Independence of the Press,' have afforded me. My admiration for a bold and untrammelled spirit is un bounded, especially when developed in those who wield that great lever of liberty, the public press. And your sentiments are so akin to my own so closely do they approximate the great land-marks of our party, that were I capable of infusing in my composition a tythe of your perspicuity, I should have thought I had written them myself.' " The editor replies : " Your favorable consideration of my abilities is certainly gratifying, sir, though believe me, when 1 assure you that one of my chief studies has been to establish for my paper, a character independent of either and all parties as well as sects." 14 And indeed you have succeeded admirably in your determination, for under your control, the Republican has acquired a reputation enjoyed APPENDIX. 121 by few of its cotemporaries. But then in this world of life and business, one's influence fails to be properly appreciated in your apparently iso lated position. As the acknowledged organ of a powerful party with the most flattering prospect of retaining its ascendancy, your usefulness would be unbounded your productions would be felt, where they are now only admired. Besides, such an acquisition to our cause, would carry dismay into the ranks of our adversaries, and in consideration of the unimportant sacrifice of what you deem an independent position, but which would really afford you facility in giving force to your views, the patronage of the government would at once be transferred to the 4 Re publican,' as the most desirable channel through which the friends of the administration might be kept advised of the conduct of their public servants.' " The last argument proves conclusively irresistible, and the editor of the " Republican " in examining his conscientiousness, finds that he differs with the administration only in non-essentials in which Jeffer son himself recommends freedom, so he runs up the banner,and his advent into the Babylon of party strife is hailed as ' another tremendous dem onstration ' in favor of the principles of the party which has purchased him. " Being sold editorially and being sold as an editor, are, however, two different things. A day or two since, a good looking typo who belonged to the 1st Indiana Regiment-, related to us the following incident. Some time ago, last summer we believe, Capt. Corydon Donnavan, who lately arrived in New Orleans, the former editor of the Cincinnati Daily Mes sage, and more recently of the Wabash Standard, published in Lafayette, la., was clerking it on a steamer on the Rio Grande. One day, while the boat was taking in wood, our editor with a couple of friends went on shore for the purpose of shooting armadilloes, or any other IVfexican game that they might meet with, when but a short distance from the boat, they were surrounded and captured by some thirty armed Mexicans. One of these fellows who could speak a little English, found out that the unfortunate editor was a printer by profession, and he immediately secured him as a precious prize. Knowing his value, he set a price upon his head, and he was finally knocked down for the sum of $950.00.' Good heavens ! that an editor should be sold so low. The poor fellow was marched off to Valladolid, the capital of Michoacan, and sent into a Mexican printing office in that lovely city, to set up villainous Mexican type. After working some time, he succeeded in making his escape, and after the battle of Cerro Gordo, he managed to fall in with the army of Gen. Scott, where he was quite at home. Who will have the temerity to say after this, that editors are not bought and sold ? " 10* 122 APPENDIX. The following brief sketch is copied from the " Yankee Blade," it having been compiled by the editor, and published in a recent number of that paper. " A new era seems to have arisen in public and popular amusements : or at least an extraordinary revival among panoramic paintings has taken place. Since the exhibition of Catherwood's great work, some fifteen years ago, panoramas had become rather an obsolete idea, until Ban- vard produced his beautiful geographical picture of the Mississippi river. His complete pecuniary success, no doubt, encouraged others to engage in enterprises of a similar nature ; yet few, if any, have realized like rewards, in the accumulation of either fame or fortune. No one will pretend to dispute that exhibitions of this description tend to refine the taste and elevate the intellectual standard that the study of any work of art, possessing merit, has a happy influence while the extent of patronage bestowed on pictures like these, in any community, is the best criterion by which to judge of that community's cultivation. There is something about their fascinating illusions, calculated at once to please the eye and captivate the imagination ; and we should not be at all sur prised did they eventually supercede the present mode of teaching geog raphy, botany, geology, etc., in our public schools. Right glad are we to hear of Capt. Donnavan's complete success, which is attributable not altogether to the merit of his painting, trans- cendently beautiful as it is acknowledged t to be, but to the pleasing romance and thrilling interest associated with his Adventures in Mexico. The public's insatiate appetite for the wild and almost incredible ro mance in which real life so abounds, is to be gratified. The patient, plodding life of an artist, who ekes out a dreamy existence in his lone garret, is too tame to arrest the attention of a people rocked* into man hood and maturity in the cradle of excitement a people whose earliest memories are associated with stirring scenes, and whose own lives are often a succession of the adventures so strongly marking the character of the American people. To approve, without reserve, this idiosyn- cracy of our countrymen, would be negatively to condemn modest and patient merit. This we do not mean to ck> ; nor can we, at the same time, conceal the gratification it affords us to see the indomitable spirit of man struggle into success over the odds of adversity, and what the more superstitious often call fate itself. It shows that in the very genius of our institutions are garnered up the germs of distinction, which are at the mercy of no hereditary entailment that there is no law of the land to limit the exercise of the tact or talent vouchsafed to the humblest . CltJZen< ifiovMiUiv ort'C >P'I >if Fifty years ago, what wild enthusiast would have conjectured that the APPENDIX. 123 great valley of the Mississippi, besides feeding half' a world of men, would so soon produce works of 'art, surpassing in stupendousness of design and originality of conception, the efforts of puritan New England ! Yet it is even so. The " tables are being turned " upon the Yankees, and the very men to whom in other days they sold their wooden clocks and nutmegs, now retort upon us, in speculations which prove both in structive and amusing. The history of Mr. Banvard's struggles and final triumph, is known almost the length and breadth of the land ; and about the time of his departure to seek a wider field in an older world, a work similar in de sign, but abounding in more grandeur, and in its execution a wilder romance, comes before us as a candidate for popular favor, and is already " winning golden opinions from all sorts of people." Like its predecessor, it hails from the great West the broad plains of enter- prize and industry beyond the blue ridge, which but yesterday, as it were, was the boundary of an unexplored wilderness. We allude, of course, to Capt. Donnavan's Great Serial Panorama of Mexico. Like the man who has immortalized, in the poetry of painting, the " Great Father of Waters," we find that Capt. Donnavan's career abounds in the charm of romance, yet is filled with far bolder adventure. Fie is, withal, a practical printer ; and what adventure is too wild or daring for that strange, yet intelligent body of craftsmen, whose very duty is knowledge, and whose daily task it is to make up a map of the busy world ? It is the pride of those connected with the press in our country, to feel, that with all the abuses that assail the tripod, the members of the craft are often found foremost in honorable enterprize. Capt. Donnavan has for several years been associated with the newspaper press of the " Queen City," from the capacity of devil down to editor ; and before writing his "Adventures in Mexico," which introduced him to a wider circle of admirers a work, too, which has been pronounced by many of the leading journals, the best incited by the Mexican war his rep utation as an editor ranked deservedly high. He is truly and literally a " travelled man " has not only " seen the elephant," but according to u the book " become somewhat familiar with the entire Mexican menagerie. His admirable painting, representing as it does, all the points of interest through which himself and companions, as well as the American army, passed, being now open in our city, and its exhibi tion attracting peculiar interest among the public, a brief reference to the personal history of the projector, as well as the circumstances under which the work was produced, cannot fail to be welcomed by our read ers. For our information in these particulars, we are indebted chiefly to the western press. 124 APPENDIX. [Prom the Cincinnati Daily Commercicil, July 7, 1847.] CAPT. DONNA VAN'S RETURN. A FEW days ago, to the gratification of his many friends, we had the pleasure of announcing Capt. Donnavan's safe return to his home and family, after an absence of over a year in Mexico. The fatigues of a l9ng journey, as well as an interchange of social civilties and affections, among friends and relatives, precluded at that time, but the bare state ment of his arrival, without adverting to his many adventures. But the first welcome greeting, after his long absence, having transpired, we yesterday enjoyed a long conversation with him, relative to his capture, perilous journey, sale, and final escape and return to the United States. In times past, when Donnavan was an editorial contemporary of ours, we took some liberties with each other, and occasionally indulged in a good humored joke, frequently at our expense. But these things live only in memory, which serves rather to strengthen our regard, than .alienate our friendship. The Captain has many friends, not only in this city, but throughout the entire West, where his ability as a pleasing and graphic writer, has become rather proverbial. He is one of those men that the " boys and girls run after," and we believe we have never in our life known a really bad man to be liked and courted by the juve niles. He reasons that he was a boy once himself, left fatherless and destitute at an early age, and can consequently appreciate the courtesies of those who smiled upon his adverse pathway, and in all of which there is a great deal of truth as well as genuine poetry. The Captain is a native Buckeye, that is, having been first introduced to this sublunary sphere in our own great state of Ohio. We first knew him in 1837, as a practical printer, setting out from this city to seek his fortune in the " sunny South." A few years afterwards, at the age of twenty-one-, we found him, at the head of a leading political paper in the neighboring State of Indiana, and shortly afterwards a member of its legislature. Again, about the time we commenced our own editorial career in the Queen city, we met him as a contemporary, he having purchased and assumed the editorial charge of the u Daily Morning Message," an independent paper, established by William D. Gallagher, one of the present editors of the u Gazette." It was here that his in dustry and talent soon won him a high reputation as an editor, and in which position he continued till a short time previous to the commence ment of hostilities with Mexico. He held the commission of Captain in the great " standing arrny " of Mr. Van Buren, signed, sealed and deliv ered by Gov. Corwin, Commander-in-chief of the Ohio militia, and still retains his belligerent title, though always peaceably disposed. APPENDIX. 125 Like most, or at least many men, who embark in newspaper specula tions, his labors were rewarded more by empty honors, than by those pecuniary realities which are requisite to keep body and soul together ; and being naturally impulsive, and stimulated by a desire to accumulate fortune more speedily, upon the receipt of the news of the first battles, he hastened to the seat of war on the Rio Grande, In the capacity of manager of a steamer, engaged in transporting troops, and munitions of war, from Brazos to Camargo, he was fast realizing his golden anticipa tions, when an unexpected surprise made himself and two intimate com panions prisoners, at the mercy of a band of guerillas, ten times their number, headed by the notorious Canalles. Those who have any knowl edge of the barbarous manner in which American prisoners are dealt with in Mexico, can best depict in imagination the perilous situation of this small and defenceless party. Thrice were they condemned to be executed as common felons ; but, as if through some providential inter vention, they were as often spared a death so cruel. From near Ca margo, they were hurried across the Sierra Madre to Zacatecas, without any positive knowledge of their fate or destination. Here, through the interposition of a number of American and English citizens, they were temporarily released : but only, as they soon found, to be recaptured, together with those who had so magnanimously endeavored to rescue them. The entire party was then conducted by an efficient guard over the mountains and deserts, through the cities of San Luis, Guanajuato, and Queretaro, to Valladolid, performing the journey chiefly on foot. At the latter place, Capt. Donnavan and one of his associates, Mr. Cunning ham, who was also a practical printer, were sold like cattle in the mar ket, and forced into involuntary servitude in a Mexican printing office. Of all these wrongs, none of their countrymen could be made cogni zant. No word of condolence from anxious friends could reach them, for the " secrets of their prison house were unrevealed." Months passed away, and no intelligence came home by which to trace the fate of the captives. A year transpired, and Donnavan was considered as good as dead ; when, all at once, he turned up suddenly, good-looking as ever, but his clothes rather the worse for wear. ttflpirrnff T IfNWKFP-' The Captain informs us that he made his esca'pe alone, in the night. After a perilous journey of several days, performed on foot, he reached the city of Mexico, from which point he reached Vera Cruz without dif ficulty, and sailed for New Orleans about a month ago. In his travels, he has acquired much knowledge of the people, and a region of country little known to any of us, the publicity of which, taken in connectiou with the incidents of his own captivity and adventures, could not fail to be of thrilling interest to the public. In fact, he owes it not only lo 126 APPENDIX. himself and friends, but to the world, to publish a detailed narrative of " all of which he saw, and part of which he was." The following notice of the Panorama is copied from the " Cincinnati Gazette," as one among many others equally complimentary, but with more of which it is deemed unnecessary to crowd the present work : CAPT. DONNAVAN'S PANORAMA. There are two individuals insepar ably connected with the history of the Mexican campaign, whose names bear a striking resemblance, Col. Doniphan, and Capt. Donnavan. Both have gone through dangers and " hair-breadth escapes," and suf fered all manner of hardships ; both dearly paid for the privilege of " seeing the elephant," studying his natural history, and getting the run of his tricks ; both have written histories of their adventures ; but there is one thing in which our old typo friend, the Captain, leaves the gallant Colonel completely in shadow : he has illustrated the brilliant achieve ments of our army in Mexico, with a magnificent Panorama, and retires from the campaign with his colors still flying. Besides his own time, the Captain has employed that of three distin guished artists, during the past eight months, on this stupendous produc tion, and he leaves in a few days for the purpose of exhibiting it to the people of the eastern cities. Our friends there will find it eminently worthy of their attention. To the members of the press and the public, we commend Capt. Donnavan as a gentlemanly fellow-craftsman, an eccentric natural genius, and altogether an extraordinary man, who has displayed much energy and enterprise in getting up this work. He de scribes it in a manner which adds much to the interest of its exhibition. The painting has been very successful here, and, as its accuracy is vouched by many officers and privates who have returned from service in the lines of both Gen. Taylor and Gen. Scott, we anticipate like suc cess for it wherever it may be exhibited. LETTER FROM MR. CUNNINGHAM. The following extracts from a letter received by the author last spring, from his old companion, may not prove unacceptable to the reader. Surely the " perquisites " to which he alludes, a sum amount ing to about $150,000, could not have been totally so to him. NEW ORLEANS, March 18, 1848. CAPT. DONNAVAN : You will doubtless be even more suprised on the receipt of this than was I after perusing your " Adventures," a copy of which I obtained here the day after my arrival. " McGreggor 's on his APPENDIX. 127 native heath again," But first permit me to congratulate you on your propitious return to family and friends. Not only do I voluntarily hasten to excuse my conduct, previous to your " unceremonious elopement," and to which I observe you have made a significant allusion, but at the same time to crave a thousand pardons. Impotence will cling around our selfish natures, and the truth is, I found my heart too narrow to divide its affections. * * * Various conjectures were indulged, in regard to your probable fate after your precipitous flight, and our mutual friend Buffam was outrageously indignant ; though his exaggerated vocif erations met with little sympathy, and he soon cooled down to his native element of " masterly inactivity." I have been over a week in New Orleans. With what a thrill of joy I tread again my native shores, you and those only who have passed through like perils, can appreciate. You are aware that my bondage was virtually broken before your departure, but it was soon cemented in another and far more agreeable one. You can infer my meaning. Mrs. Cunningham and our two little dark-eyed twin daughters are of course with me, affording almost as much curiosity as we did on our debut in Valladolicl. * * * I wish to hear from you often, and we both join in hoping to see you soon. My residence will be in future near Kosciusko, Miss., that is if my tropical flowers will bear transplanting in so ungenial a clime. Mrs. C. is by no means favorably impressed with the peculiarities of the " Americanos " generally, and should she desire to return to her mountain home, it will afford me pleasure, much as I love my native land ,and its institutions, to sacrifice them for an affection which, without its perqui sites, combining all the elements of wealth and ease, would make me one of the happiest of men. How immeasurably little do we know of this world's future ! The very spot where misery and degradation seemed ready to spend their fury on our temporal lives, to me has been changed to a paradise, and its associations cling around me, consecrated to the memory of all I care to live for. F. R. CUNNINGHAM. THE PANORAMA. NOTE. Wherever cities or points represented on the Panorama have been fully de scribed in the body of this work, a recapitulative description has been deemed unneces sary, reference being made to the preceding pages. PART FIRST. CORPUS CHRISTI, an unimportant place with a few buildings, known a number of years as the residence of Col. Kinney, a Texan pioneer located on Aranzas Bay, a peninsula of flat shell beach, and from which the Army of Occupation took up its line of march for the Rio Grande, March llth, 1846, as represented on the canvass. ARAGO COLORADO, a small river, the banks of which are lined with chaperal, a dwarfish copse of thorny vegetation, matted with vines and prickly pear ; the point where General Taylor's progress was first disputed by the enemy. POINT ISABEL, located on an arm of the Gulf called Brazos Santiago, a distance of twenty-five miles from the city of Matamoras, and where General Taylor took up his encampment on the 24th of March, 1846. BATTLE OF PALO ALTO, first regular engagement with the Mexicans, after the commencement of the war, on the 8th of May, 1846. The battle-ground is located on a broad prairie, the grass of which is rep resented on fire, during the evening of the engagement; one of the most grand and imposing views that can possibly be transferred to canvass. RESACA DE LA PALMA. This view is represented the-night after the battle, by moonlight, with the tents, camp-fires, stacks of arms; Gen! Taylor, Maj. Bliss, and Capt. May in the foreground. THE CITY OF MATAMORAS. The view is at sunrise, an hour, the transcendent gorgeousness of which is so well known in Mexico. The city is among the most important in northern Mexico, containing a population of about 10,000. Before approaching Fort Brown, located on the bank of the Rio Grande, nearly opposite the city, is represented a family of the Cacti, the specimens of which grow to a height often of thirty feet, remarkable for the beauty of its flowers. REYNOSA. This is a small place unknown except as a military point. THE Rio GRANDE, as seen between Matamoras and Camargo, is a stream whose general course is exceedingly straight, but whose sud- 128 THE PANORAMA. den turns and windings are still more remarkable. It is among the longest rivers in the world, from the rnouth to the source being over 1800 miles. For a full description, the reader is referred to the first part of the preceding work. CAMARGO, about three miles from the confluence of the San Juan with the Rio Grande, and the point near which the author was cap tured, containing a population of about 3000. For a description of which, see Chapter I. MARIN, on the road leading to Monterey, celebrated as the former residence of Canalles, the great robber chief. The town is located in a gorge of the mountains ; painted from a view by Capt. Whiting, of the United States Army. BISHOP'S PALACE, near the city of Monterey, represented as being stormed by the American forces. CITY OF MONTEREY, signifying city of the hills, in the very midst of which it is located, and capital of the province of New Leon, has a population of 7000 one of the most beautiful cities in northern Mexico, and celebrated as the place where Gen. Santa Anna received his military education. In the suburbs of the city, are represented the residence and gardens of Gen. Arista, the place where Gen. Taylor first consented to become " the candidate of the people," for the Presidency of the United States. VALLEY OF SAN JUAN, a delightfully cultivated region, as seen from the heights in the vicinity of Monterey, looking towards Saltillo, where flourish the sugar-cane, cotton, tobacco, the orange, pine-apple, palm, plantain, and all the tropical fruits. MEXICAN HACIENDA, containing two hundred thousand acres of ground, with all its characteristics, habitations, cultivated fields, hedge fences, &c. CITY OF SALTILLO, located on the side hill as the name signifies,form- erly the capital of Coahuila, with a population of 12,000, remarkable for the beauty of its churches and cathedrals. BATTLE OF BUENA VISTA. Six miles from the city of Saltillo, is represented the great battle where Gen. Taylor made the last master stroke in his successful military campaign. With 4,500 men, chiefly volunteers, it will be remembered, that he here met and defeated about 20,000, the flower of the Mexican army, under Gen. Santa Anna. The position of the two armies is represented on the second day of the engagement, the 23d of February, 1847. The American loss was estimated at 264, that of the enemy 2000. CITY OF ZACATECAS. A delightful city, occupying a mountain loca tion, and represented as seen from the garden of Andalusia, in the vicinity. For a full description, see Chap. VII. 11 130 THE PANORAMA. A MEXICAN RANCH, the kind of residence occupied by much the larger portion of the population. SAN Luis POTOSI. This place is fully described on p. 66. In its vicinity is also represented the manner in which the Mexicans re cruit their army. ' CITY OF GUANAJUATO. A magnificent view of the entrance to this wealthy city is represented, painted from a sketch presented to the author by Mr. Kendall, editor of the New Orleans Picayune. A detailed description of the place may be seen on reference to page 68. THE TABLE LANDS. That the spectator may obtain a far more ade quate idea of the table lands, than can possibly be acquired from either books or oral description, extensive plains, both cultivated and arid are represented fields of corn, wheat, aloe and the nopal, and broad sterile regions, where owing to the etherial state of the atmos phere, the eye may rest on a perspective more than twice the extent it can in any portion of our own country. CITY OF YAQUI. This Indian or Aztec city, a description of which will be found at length in the preceding pages, is remarkable for its antiquity and peculiar architecture. See chap. V. CITY OF QUERETARO. This city, celebrated for the beauty and uniformity of its architecture, and for the indolence of its inhabitants, is the place to which the Mexican Congress fled upon the subjuga tion of their capital by the army under General Scott. It is described on page 68. VALLADOLID. This city, so familiar to the author, is represented by a moonlight view, having paused after his escape to " make a note of it." *>;. T' .s')J !.)!.! b*>jii7{ju;..> ^ .:> ->'j;i.s- ';? .fcfi^n ,' .:>;' t ifiM il PART SECOND. CITY OF TAMPICO, near the mouth of the Paunco river one of the most important commercial points of Mexico, and numbering a population nearly as large as Vera Cruz. Taken possession of in the early history of the war by Mrs. Chase, lady of the American Consul, who, by her heroic daring, frightened the entire population into an unconditional surrender. ISLAND OF LOBOS, signifying Wolf or Seal Island, a charming spot, formed chiefly of coral, covered with Banyan trees, and the place where Gen. Scott concentrated his forces previous to the attack on Vera Cruz. HARBOR OF VERA CRUZ. Approaching the harbor the fleet of Com modore 4 Connor is to be seen, and the landing of Gen. Scott's forces, consisting of about 11,000 men, near the city, on the 9th of March, 1847, in iron surf-boats, constructed lor the especial purpose. THE PANORAMA. 131 CITY OF YERA CRUZ, extending along the beach three miles, with the great Castle of San Juan de Ulloa. The population of the city is estimated at from 8000 to 10,000 its streets are wide and spa cious, some of them well paved with stone shipped from Quincy, Mass. NATIONAL BRIDGE, usually called " Puente Nacional," built by the old Spanish government, and one of the firmest as well as most durable structures of the kind in America. The bridge is thrown across the Antigua river, a small mountain stream, is nearly half a mile in length, constructed of small stones, cemented together, the masonry covered with a uniform coat of marble cement, and forming altogether the strongest point of defence on the line of the National road, leading from Vera Cruz to the city of Mexico. fc CERRO GORDO. The abrupt and imposing heights of Cerro Gordo, present a striking contrast to the low lands of the coast, and the spec tator is again introduced to the mountain regions, in which Mexicp so abounds. The storming of this strong defence by the American forces, as represented on the canvass, took place April 18, 1847. The American loss on this occasion was estimated at 250, that of the enemy, 350, while according to his official reports, Gen. Scott took 3000 prisoners, forty pieces of artillery, and 5000 stand of small arms. CITY OF jALAPA,the most delightful place, in fact the El Dorado of Mexico, its vicinity abounding in all the fruits peculiar to the tropics. For further description, see p. 101. ORIZABA. The view of this volcano, called by the ancient popula tion of Mexico, Citlalteptl, (signifying star-mountain,) is, as seen from Los Viegas, the highest point on the National road, the mountain or volcano being some thirty miles distant. It rises according to the measurement of Huinboldt, 17,368 feet in height, the summit being covered with perpetual snow, is visible a great distance after leaving Vera Cruz in the Gulf. It is the last point of land to be seen in Mexico, after leaving the harbor of Vera Cruz. PEROTE. The town of Perote, Coffre and Castle of the same name by moonlight. For description, the reader is referred to p. 100. CITY OF PUEBLA. The view of this beautiful city, capital of the same province, is represented as seen from Fort Loretto, on an emi nence occupied by the American forces during the war. The great volcanoes of Popocatepetl and Iztaccihuatl with their summits of per ual snow, are to be seen in the distance, towering above the clouds. For a further description of the city, see p. 98. PYRAMID OF CHOLULA. This pyramid is certainly among the most interesting antiquities of our continent, surrounded as it was, in the days of the Conquest, by the city of the same name, which was 132 THE PANORAMA. . the religious capital of the Aztec race, and to which the people made pilgrimages as did the Mahomedans to Mecca. Rio FRIO, a mountain pass and beautiful valley. In the valley of Rio Frio, signifying cold river, is located the village of Cordova, cele brated as a favorite resort of robbers and guerrillas. CASTLE OF CHAPULTEPEC. The hill of Chapultepec, signifying grass hopper hill, is located about two miles west of the city of Mexico, to a view of which the spectator is transported, before entering the city. It is naturally well fortified, the bluff being steep and formed of porphyritic rock. The Castle, constructed by the young viceroy Galvez, nearly two centuries ago, occupies the summit, is 600 feet in length, and 40 feet high. It has been long occupied as a military academy. It is the real sight of the much talked of " Halls of the Montezumas," for it was here that Montezuma had his palace. In its vicinity, were located the beautiful gardens ef the aboriginal emperor, and here we may even yet trace the indistinct remnants of the magnificence by which the monarch was surrounded. The Castle is represented dur ing the siege or bombardment by the American troops, which took place September 12th, 1847. CITY OF MEXICO. Perhaps no city in the world offers a more striking and beautiful panoramic view, than Mexico. Located in lat itude 19 north, where fires are unknown, except for culinary pur poses, the warm mellowness of a tropical atmosphere, throws over the scene a fairy -like delusion ; while the calm, glassy lakes, encir cled by the high ridge of mountains which surrounds the valley, groves of the orange and cypress, acqueducts, statuary, and forests of church spires, impart a general gorgeousness, unsurpassed in the wide world. The view of the city, as seen on the Panorama, was taken from the dome of the great cathedral, which occupies the pre cise spot where stood the ancient temple of the sun, and the specta tor is supposed to be looking down upon the scene. The public Hospital erected by Cortez, an institution which has continued to dispense blessings amid all the wreck and ruin of revolution ; the Palacio, or palace of the viceroys ; the Cara de Stado, the residence of Cortez ; the Franciscan convent ; the University, founded in 1551, as well as all the public buildings, the Alamada or park, the principal streets, etc., are represented, and on the last side of the Grand Plaza, after the spectator enters that magnificent square, is a front view of the great cathedral. For a detailed description of the city, the reader is referred to the foregoing work page 89. jg^ 04 A most pleasing feature of the panorama, is its representation of the rich and varied botany of the tropics. Among the numerous specimens, introduced at appropriate places, may be mentioned the palm, cabbage, cypress, cedar, cocoanut, ebony, banyan, calabash, orange and pandanus trees ; the aloe, yucca, cycas, banana, pine apple, cactus, sugar-cane, cotton, tobacco, nopal, cereus, jalap, va nilla, ponisettia, drummond phlox, with their fruits, flowers, etc.