^fe
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BANCROFT
LIBRARY
o
THE LIBRARY
OF
THE UNIVERSITY
OF CALIFORNIA
DON!
-lOMPASY,
CAPT. DONNAVAN.
Engraved by Hitchcock, from a daguerreotype !<y North.
Hallworth, pr.
\
ADVENTURES
IN
MEXICO;
EXPERIENCED DURING A CAPTIVITY OF
SEVEN MONTHS.
BY C. DONNAVAN.
TWELFTH EDITION.
WITH AN APPENDIX.
BOSTON:
PUBLISHED BY GEORGE R. HOLBROOK & CO.
1848.
?. a a u i vi :-i v
; o
Entered according to act of Congress, in the year 1847,
BY C. DONNAVAN,
In the Clerk's Office for the District Court of Ohio.
PRESS OF G. C. RAND & CO., No. 3, Corahill.
PREFACE.
ON his return to the United States, the Author had not conceived
the idea of presenting to the public a narrative of his adventures,
especially in this form. True, he experienced much which was of
great moment and peculiar interest to himself, yet he was loath to
reconcile the belief, even upon the repeated assurances of his friends,
that he should be able to interest others. To what extent he may
have merited the partiality of those friends, the public will now have
an opportunity to judge. The fact that numerous publications,
already scattered over the States, purporting to describe the people,
country, and institutions of a land to whose destiny all eyes seem
now eagerly turned, is a circumstance foreboding the spirit of dis
trust in which a new production may be received. And in a narra
tive of this character, the public are apt to anticipate that hational
or individual prepossessions may produce an unfavorable effect upon
the writer that mere prejudice or passion may direct his thoughts
or color his language. Indeed, it is no easy task to assure such a
work against such an influence ; and although the Author's treat
ment, while a prisoner, served to impress upon him no very high
esteem or favorable regard for those who held him in bondage con
trary to all rules of civilization, it does not follow that he should
hazard his reputation by venturing upon any intentional misstatement
of material facts. It is natural, in depicting outrages inflicted by
relentless oppressors, that the writer should evince, in some degree,
those higher passions and sentiments which alone could have incited
and sustained him in the dark days of trial, yet he does not deem
3
.
4 PREFACE.
himself justified in permitting his individual wrongs to impart a
biassed coloring or vindictive spirit to his narrative. Under such
considerations he has endeavored to observe a proper degree of re
straint and moderation, and to suppress any unjust feeling of resent
ment for those whom he has every reason to censure. With no pre
tension to profound views of men or events, nor to any elaborate
elegance of diction, he has aimed at simplicity and truth, rather
than striven to be ambitious for effect. From imperfect notes,
sketched during the period of his captivity, and from memory, he
has endeavored to present, in an abridged form, that which he con
ceives will be of most interest. The manuscript, as originally writ
ten out, was found to be too voluminous ; and as it contained much
of a strictly personal nature, was curtailed to suit the dimensions in
which the work appears. This will account, in some measure, for
the apparent abruptness of certain portions of the narrative. The
writer had not the vanity to presume that a long and tedious detail
of his private sufferings would elicit public attention, beyond the
mere circle of his acquaintance, severe as those sufferings were.
Satisfied, therefore, in alluding as briefly as practicable to his indi
vidual privations, he has dwelt more upon the resources of the coun
try, descriptions of its scenery, soil, climate, and productions, char
acter, manners, and customs of the people relating only such inci
dents connected with his own adventures, as may be relished by the
general reader.
CINCINNATI, Sept. 15, 1847.
TABLE OF CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
Departure for Mexico. Arrival at Brazos. Description of Country. Naviga
tion of the Rio Grande. Trip up the River. Reynosa. Camargo. Mier
and its Natural Advantages. Stock. Description of Country, Timber, and
Productions. Guerrero. Scenery. Curiosity of the Natives. Hospitality
of the Authorities. Springs. Dwelling Houses. Coal Mines. Silver Ore,
&c. A Crooked River. Geological Specimens. Departure for Matamoras .
Page 13.
CHAPTER II.
Return to Matamoras. Creole Fever. Treatment. Recovery. Barry and
Cunningham. Visit to Palo Alto. Burial of a Soldier. Impressions. Ar
rival of Volunteers. Speculations. Gambling. Gen. Taylor's Orders. His
Personal Appearance. Anecdote of a Dutchman. Great Thirst for Glory.
Travelling on the Rio Grande. Mexican Women. Anecdote of Lieutenant
Deans. Costume of the Women. Rancheros. Their Appearance and
Dress. Page ]8.
CHAPTER III.
A Hunting Excursion. Capture. Journey to Mier. Picking Pockets. Ap
pearance and Character of Canalles. The First Night^of Captivity. Novel
Interview with one of the Rancheros. Sentence of Death. Mexican Char
acter. Interference in our behalf. Sentence Reversed. Our Fate Revealed.
Page 25.
CHAPTER IV.
March for Ceralvo. Diet. Pinto Indians. Insults. New Jewelry. Sympa
thy Among the Dutch. Road to Carmillo. Scenery. Hacienda of San Ma-
tero. Ancient Ruins. Slavery in Mexico. Arrival at Carmillo. Beauty
and Amusements. A Robber Pursuing an Indian. A Mountain Pass. Death
among- the Mustangs. Desolation of a Rancho. Arrival at Monclova. Fail
ure to Sell Prisoners. Confinement in Prison. Appearance of the Prison
and Inmates. A Mier Prisoner. Reflections, &c. Page 28.
CHAPTER V.
Release from Prison at Monclova. Punishment of Criminals. Advance* of
Gen. Wool's Army. Our Departure for Zacatecas. Mexican Expresses.
Parras. Novel Funeral Procession. Burial of a Muchacha. Lake of Parras.
5
6 TABLE OF CONTENTS.
Rio Grande de Parras. Diet. Mosquitos. Degradation of Females. Im
plements of Husbandry. An Indian City. Indian Fortifications. Indian
Women. Captured by the Indians. Crossing a River. Attempt to Escape.
Drowning of a Ranchero. Towns and Cities. Fresnillo. Catholic Proces
sion. Arrival at Zacatecas. Page 39.
CHAPTER VI.
Zacatecas. Peace Party. American Citizens. Their Hospitality. Our Re
lease. Contemplated Return. A Mexican Editor. Page 50.
CHAPTER VII.
"-:'[/; /rsJiiUVJH.) ,|NS<MS'9 . > : T"
Mexican Opinion of Yankees. Buildings at Zacatecas. Customs. Merchants*
Shops. Business. Auction Sales. Petty Thieves and their Punishment.
Gambling. Lotteries. Sunday Entertainments. Chi/rches. Cathedral and
its Ornaments. Praying for a Husband. Bull Fights. Death of a Picadore.
Cock Fighting. Extent of Silver Mines. Gold Dust. Natural Cave. Geo
logical Specimens. Iron, Copper, and Coal Mines. Garden of Don Alonzo
Gomeres. Huaco Plant, its Appearance and Discovery. Manufactures in
the City. Politics. Jose Maria Lafragua. Government. Cruelties of
Santa Anna. Barbarous Execution of a Young Female. Page 52.
CHAPTER VIII.
Impending Difficulties. Santa Anna at San Luis Potosi. Priests Heading
Guerilla Parties. Arrival of a Detachment from Santa Anna's Army. Re
captured by the Mexicans. Arrest of Citizens of Zacatecas. March to San
Luis Potosi. Mexican Soldiers and their Manner of Enlisting. City and
Prison of San Luis Potosi. Execution. Mode of Inflicting Capital Punish
ment. Invitation to join the Mexican Army. Our Indignant Refusal. De
parture for Acapulco. Estate of Jorol. Dolores. City and Churches of
Guanajuato. Page 64.
CHAPTER IX.
Arrival at Valladolid. Curiosity of the Citizens. A French Publisher. His
History. Another Sentence of Death. Negotiation for our Release. "Bar
gain and Intrigue." Sold into Slavery. Mexican Character. Our Price.
Dr. Barry. A Mexican Printing Office. Spanish Printers. El Republicano.
Support and Character of Mexican Newspapers. Page 69.
CHAPTER X.
-!>;* . i ,v>?'>iloM Is !fr/ :;"!< . f 91
City of Valladolid. Climate and Productions. Volcano of Jorullo. New-
Theory of the Gulf Stream. Christmas. Buildings in the City. Customs
of the Inhabitants. Matrimonial Intrigues. Music. Governor of Mechoa-
can, and his Plan of Warfare. Ignorance of a Mexican Editor in regard to
the United States. Corwin's Speech. News of the Battle of Buena Vista,
Great Rejoicing. Sentiments of the Masses. Page 74.
TABLE OF CONTENTS. 4
CHAPTER XL
Easter and its Amusements. Visit to the Cathedral. Description of the Edi
fice. Our Employment The Spanish Alphabet. Change in Discipline,
Improvement in Diet. Masticating Monkeys. The Ladies. Their Hospi
tality and Accomplishments. Love and its Doings. Page 79.
CHAPTER XII.
News of the Investment of Vera Cruz. Battle of Cerro Gordo. Character of
Cunningham. Influence of Love. Unfavorable Change in Treatment. Es
cape from Valladolid. Passing the Gates. Departure for Q,ueretaro. To
matoes. A Rancho. Hospitality of the Women. Baking Tortillas. As
sumption of a New Character. Rio Grande de Santiago. Banyan Trees.
Mountain Scenery. An American Physician, his Character and Kindness.
Education of Lizards. City of Queretaro. A Mexican Diligence. Arrival
at the City of Mexico. Page 83.
CHAPTER XIII.
City of Mexico. Public Grounds. Public Buildings. The Mint. Coining
Gold. Hotels, Theatres. Newspaper Press of the City. Literature. So
ciety. Manners and Customs. Dress. Suburbs. Cemetery. Population.
Page 89.
CHAPTER XIV.
Major Borland. Public Sentiment in the City. Departure for Puebla. Pass
at Rio Frio. Temple of the Sun. City of Puebla. Manufactories. Public
Buildings. Cathedral. Investment of the City. Gen. Worth. Disaffection
among the Soldiers. Assassinations. Perote. Army under Gen. Scott.
Jalapa. Battle Ground of Cerro Gordo. National Road and Bridge. Col..
Sowers. Vera Cruz. Castle of Sun Juan. Passage Across the Gulf. Island
of Lobos. Arrival in the United States. Barry and Cunningham. P. 97.
CHAPTER XV.
Mexico. Extent of Territory. Soil. Climate. Maguey Plant. Cochineal.
Vanilla. Cotton and Sugar. Potatoes. Chili. Timber. Water. Tobacco.
Commerce. Conquest. Revolution. Independence. Influence and Wealth
of the Priesthood. Santa Anna. Gen. Almonte. Gomez Farias. Gen.
Herrera. Sqnor Aleman. Education. The War. Manner of Conducting
it. Destiny. Page 104.
APPENDIX, ---------- 118
DESCRIPTION OF THE PANORAMA, - - 128
-;Ml 8i:J HI nVi&friiMwt .fin! "!-'* " ^*.:x,f. ~n
.gniuji-'HKrrti'^fte^r) '.'g*';.*-;' ' -iulq;^-; TU
^- ADVERTISEMENT q " Ai
TO THE TWELFTH EDITION.
-T/T ,fn*4?<v.">i,i
_...-, v ,/[* ,, . fj.lff /<.,
THE author cannot forego the pleasure it affords him in expressing
his grateful acknowledgments to the public, for the partiality mani
fested towards his unpretending production. To say that his highest
anticipations have been more than realized, would be but the tame
repetition of a stereotyped phrase they have been completely sub
merged in the current of popular favor. More than sixteen thou
sand copies of the work, in the English language, have been dis
posed of by his publishers, during the past year ; while its translation
into the German has been attended with comparatively flattering re
gard.
The work was first stereotyped and issued at Cincinnati, in Sep
tember, 1847, by Messrs. Robinson & Jones, who had the sole super
intendence of its sale. The contract with those publishers having
expired, by limitation, at the close of the first year, the copy-right
now reverts exclusively to the author ; and the repeated applications
for it at his Exhibition Room, have induced the issue of the present
revised edition, including an Appendix descriptive of the Panorama,
which may, to some extent, be regarded as an illustration of his
ii:ii & .9&i' M >t) ,i<JOHi!V -if* I.)
" Adventures.
M!j*i
BOSTON, Oct. 15, 1848.
8
ADVENTURES
IN MEXICO
CHAPTER I-
Departure for Mexico Arrival at Brazos Description of Country Navi
gation of the Rio Grande Trip up the River Reynosn Camanro Mier
and its natural advantages Slock Description of Country, Timber, and
Productions Guerrero Scenery Curiosity of the Natives Hospitality
of the Authorities Springs Dwelling; Houses Coal Mines Silver Ore
A crooked River Geological Specimens Departure for Matamoras.
THE excited state of feeling which followed the first authentic
intelligence announcing the existence of actual hostilities on the
Rio Grande, was only equalled by the promptitude and alacrity
which characterized the conduct of our people, in offering to the
country their services, and hastening to the scene of action. At the
period when the first requisition for troops was made (in the spring
of 1846) the author was engaged as clerk on the steamboat Ontario
then in the Louisville and Nashville trade. The immediate de
mand for vessels of small or light draft, by the government, to trans
port troops and munitions of war, from the Brazos to Matamoras,
induced the proprietors to transfer her to the seat of war ; and
more as an indispensable appendage to the crew, than from any in
herent belligerent disposition, he consented to continue the super
vision of her finances, and accompany her to the enemy's domin
ions. Leaving New Orleans on the 2 1st of May, 1846, the
Ontario, with a portion of the Louisiana volunteers, was towed
across the Gulf by the brig Everett, and landed among the first
boats at the Brazos, on the 28th of the same month.
Succeeding our arrival, numerous incidents continued to occur,
almost daily, many of which possessing some degree of interest and
coming under my observation, have already appeared in the public
prints, in the form of " Letters from an Occasional Correspondent."
A recapitulation of so much of those letters as relates to the Rio
Grande and its resources, may hardly be deemed out of place here,
inasmuch as it will impart to the reader a more definite idea of that
2 13
14 DONFAVAN'S ADVENTUKES
country than he has been able to attain, unless having visited it in
person.
Although the reading public has been recently overtaxed with al
most every variety of statements, purporting to be authentic de
scriptions of that interesting region, and accurate accounts of its
resources, yet few, if any, of the many adventurers, have suc
ceeded in arriving at conclusions at all satisfactory to those who
are familiar with the country, as it exists under ordinary circum
stances. The great variety of opinion entertained of the country,
is mainly the result of the variety of circumstance under which it
is visited. The tyranny of first impressions is difficult to eradi
cate, and is ever liable to exert its influence over our better judg
ments. It is, therefore, matter of little surprise, that a large num
ber of our volunteers, who, on their first arrival at Point Isabel and
Matamoras, under the most untoward circumstances, and encoun
tering trials at which their ideas of domestic comfort revolted,
should arrive at original and diversified conclusions. Nor is it at
all strange that much of the dark and gloomy should be mingled
in the creations of those whose bright hopes of speedy conquest
have been supplanted by the more melancholy feeling incident to
disappointment and disease.
The principal objection to the country of the Rio Grande, and
indeed, the larger portion of the Mexican provinces, arises from the
scarcity of timber and water. The ebony, musquite, rosewood,
and a variety of other short, stunted, and thorny growths, almost
insulated with vines of different species, and some of whose flow
ers bloom perennially, constitute the only woodlands if they de
serve to be so denominated in the vicinity of th&t river. Oc
casionally the willovv and white cypress are to be found approach
ing the banks, but not in sufficient abundance to afford fuel, at
(what in boating parlance we consider) a fair compensation.
The ebony and rosewood are the " tallest timber," but it is sel
dom that either reaches an altitude of over forty feet. Both are
well adapted to the manufacture of light cabinet ware, and would
doubtless be appropriated by the " Yankees " to that purpose.
The rumor that extensive beds of coal abounded in the vicinity
of Guerrero, a town on the Rio Grande, about three hundred and
fifty miles from Matamoras. was sufficient inducement to visit that
place, on a kind of exploring expedition. Although the practica
bility of navigating the river, above the mouth of the San Juan, had
been doubted, yet it was easily accomplished ; indeed, it has since
been ascended to Laredo, a distance of some seven hundred
and thirty miles from the Brazos. The chief obstructions to navi
gation consist in the rapidity of the current, and the narrow passa
ges between the reefs the latter jof which might be easily
removed, at a trifling expense. The most remarkable of these are
IN MEXICO. 15
said to occur above the mouth of the Rio Snlado one of which
is represented to be more than a mile in length. They consist of
a spongy composition of coral rock, and bear a close resemblance
to some of the specimens found in the Mammoth Cave of Kentucky.
After having made three trips from the Brazos to Matamoras, the
Ontario left the latter place on the 14th of June (1846) and ascend
ed to Guerrero, touching at the principal points between the two
cities, all of which are on the Mexican side.
Reynosa, some forty miles below Carnargo, is an inconsiderable
place, but eligibly situated. It contains some fine brick buildings,
and a population of perhaps one thousand.
Camargo , on the bank of the river San Juan, a short distance
above its confluence with the Rio Grande, has, since the existence
of the war, become a place of some note, though previously it \vas
rather obscure and unimportant, save as a point pursued to Monte
rey, the capital of the province of New Leon, and one of the prin
cipal scenes of the triumph of our arms.
The town of Mier, known as the place where Col. Fisher and his
men were captured during the Texan war, contains over five thou
sand inhabitants. It is located on the Rio Alcantro, three miles
above its confluence with the Rio Grande, and forty-five miles above
Camargo. Under a different form of government, and with an in
dustrious and enterprising population, such as is generally found in
the towns of the United States, Mier would soon command exten
sive manufactures, and a flourishing trade. Its water power, which
is now unemployed and unnoticed, would afford superior facilities
for the manufacture of woollen and cotton fabrics, the raw material
for either of which, may be produced in the immediate vicinity with
little labor. Indeed, its natural resources are almost unsurpassed,
but are destined to remain undeveloped, until American genius shall
have been directed to that quarter. So soon as the navigation of
the Rio Grande shall be opened to the commercial world, if that
period find its manufacturing facilities in their present state of na
ture, the great variety of domestic manufactures of the United States
will find a ready and profitable market along the whole line of that
great thoroughfare. The inhabitants, at present, produce little else
than stock, which requires no food but rnusquite grass and fodder;
with Indian corn sufficient to supply themselves with tortillas.
Single herds of cattle, numbering from five to ten thousand, and
double that number of sheep and goats, are not unfrequently to be
seen.
Ascending the river from Mier, a very material change for the bet
ter is observable in the character of the country. On either side,
rich and extensive valleys stretch out to what is called the " table
lands," presenting a strong and deep soil, in some places judiciously
cultivated. Occasionally in the prairies, extensive cotton farms,
16
containing from ten to three hundred thousand acres, are to be seen.
Beans, potatoes, wheat, and corn are here grown in greater abun
dance, perhaps, than in any other part of Mexico, a fact which taken
in consideration with its commercial and manufacturing ad vantages,
must ultimately render the valley of the Rio Grande, one of the
most important regions of the South.
Ninety-six miles above Mier, on the Rio Salado, is located the
flourishing city of Guerrero. This embryo city is approached by
ascending the Salado to its rapids, one mile and a half below the
town, and ten miles from its confluence with the Rio Grande. The
rapids and adjacent scenery present a peculiarly picturesque and
romantic view. The river here is small and the current exceedingly
rapid ; and as its dark turbid waters leap and tumble over the black,
dingy rocks, they seem endeavoring to imitate Niagara itself. Per
haps the effect produced is equal, but the grandeur is incomparably
insignificant, when viewed in connection with that great and won
derful water-fall of the world ! The scenery about Guerrero is
neither insipid uor monotonous. Gigantic hills rise abruptly from
the banks, which are covered with pine, magnolia, and various
growths of evergreen, yet there seems to be a contention between
the rocks and shrubs for the supremacy of the soil. Some leagues
from the town, and as the sources of the Salado are approached,
forest timber of large dimensions is said to abound.
The Ontario being the second boat to approach Guerrero, and the
largest ever seen by the natives, great curiosity was manifested, and
she was thronged by visiters. Their astonishment and interrogato
ries relative to the boat and its machinery, afforded a fund of amuse
ment to the officers. The Alcalde remarked in Spanish, which
when translated gave us to understand that, like " Capt. Scott's
coon, he was in favor of coming down." He said he had been
told that the Americans could send their letters by thunder and
lightning, but he never believed it yet since he had seen, with his
own eyes, that they could twist iron into so many fantastic shapes,
and make it float against the current, he began to think they could
accomplish any thing they chose to undertake, and it was of no use
to fight against them. The Alcalde came on board soon after the
boat landed, stating that one of his rancheros had informed him
that the Americans were coming in a " sea-wagon " that split the
waves and rocks in two, forcing its own passage. It seemed as if
about half the inhabitants expected to be annihilated at once, so
alarming was the commotion, until they were assured by the Al
calde that the boat, although breathing and snorting, did not pos
sess animal life, and was perfectly docile. Whethei through fear
or affection, great friendship was manifested by the authorities, and
the priests were highly delighted to find that the American Bible
so closely resembled their own. Fandangoes were gotten up in the
IN MEXICO. 17
city, and invitations extended to many of our company. Of course
we attended, and were highly pleased with the beauty and enthu
siasm of the women, but disgusted at the ignorance and incivilities
of the men. I must describe a fandango. When a large rancho
is not convenient, an area of a hundred yards is swept off, and in
the soft, silvery moonlight, young and old congregate around a dim
lamp. Agitated by the discordant notes from some rude instrument,
" Those dance and waltz who never waltzed before,
And those who always waltzed now waltz the more."
Guerrero contains a population of near 10,000, and is a popular
place of resort among the better classes, on account of its sulphur
springs. These springs are located above the city some twelve
miles, and are said to possess the same medicinal virtues as the cel
ebrated Blue Lick springs, of Kentucky. The first settlement was
made at Guerrero, in the form of a missionary station, more than
one hundred years ago. It is the largest and decidedly the most
pleasant place on the Rio Grande. Owing, perhaps, to the materials
used for construction, together with the rude notions of architecture
entertained by the natives, most of the towns in Mexico present an
appearance of antiquity which does not in justice belong to many
of them. The style of building is rather tasteful in effect, but mea
gre and insignificant in detail. Most of the dwellings in Guerrero
have their gardens and yards ; and the entire place, in the absence
of every thing like gaudy display, presents an appearance of ease
and comfort, if not of wealth.
It was soon found that bituminous coal of excellent quality, could
be obtained here in abundance. There exists several varieties,
among which is one containing little or no sulphur, and which burns
readily as it falls into water. This is a superior article for the use
of blacksmiths, as was ascertained by actual experiment. Active
preparations were making by a company of Americans to work
these mines, which when opened, must become invaluable in. a
country where timber is so scarce and expensive.
Silver ore is found in the vicinity, and gold dust is said to exist in
the alluvial deposits above the mouth of the Rio Salado. Red chalk,
red and yellow ochre, brimstone and nitre, likewise abound within
a circumference of ten miles of the town.
The Mississippi, which has long enjoyed the undisputed reputa
tion of being the crookedest river on our continent, is hardly an
index to the Rio Grande. It must have required an accomplished
surveyor to ascertain the general course of the latter stream, flowing
as it does to every point of the compass, and torturing itself to find
some new direction. Boats frequently get fast in turning the bends,
and were it not for the velocity of the current, pilots would surely
2*
18 DONNAVAN'S ADVENTURES
get lost in its mazy labyrinths. The " oldest inhabitants " contend
that birds seldom succeed in flying across but almost invariably
light on the same side from whence they take their flight. In width
it varies from 100 to 300 yards. The complexion of its waters re
sembles those of the Missouri, while the rapidity of its current is
even greater. In extent of volume it may perhaps compare with
the Connecticut river at Hartford. It is navigable for steamboats of
light draught, during the freshet seasons, to Laredo, seven hundred
miles above the mouth.
To the scientific geologist, the upper Rio Grande could not fail
to present a field of peculiar interest. There exist many novel spe
cimens, and the earth is rich in mineral treasures. A large portion
of the rock formation is of sand-stone, which is constantly increas
ing. The intense heat of the sun, succeeding the heavy rains, soon
converts the alluvial deposits into rock. Islands frequently rise from
twenty to fifty feet above the surface of the water, composed of what
might be termed calcareous conglomerates. They appear to be col
lections of large sea shells, with a great many fibrous petrifactions
of roots, bark, and grasses, and in some are found considerable
quantities of carbonate of iron. Many of the bluffs exhibit, near
their bases, strata of the finest quality of clay, adapted to the man
ufacture of a superior article of delf. In short, this region affords
every natural resource to attract the attention of capitalists and spec
ulators, while there is little to allure the hardy pioneer of the West,
who paves the path of civilization by hewing out his own home and
fortune in the forest.
After lying at Guerrero three days, and taking on board over fifty
tons of coal, the Ontario left on her return to Matamoras, on the
morning of June 22d, her departure apparently regretted by a large
number of the inhabitants, of all ages, sexes, colors, and conditions,
who had assembled to witness her departure, and who continued to
wave their scarfs, handkerchiefs, blankets, and reboses, till the boat
had receded beyond their sight.
CHAPTER II.
Return to Matamoras Creole Fever Treatment Recovery Barry and
Cunningham Visit to Palo Alto Burial of a Soldier Impressions
Arrival of Volunteers Speculators Gambling Gen. Taylor's Orders
His personal Appearance Anecdote of a Dutchman Great thirst for Glory
Travelling on the Rio Grande Mexican Women Anecdote of Lieuten
ant Deans Costume of the Women Rancheros their appearance and Dress.
SUFFERING from a severe and violent attack of " Creole fever,"
which confined me to my room for four consecutive weeks, I
IN MEXICO. 19
arrived at Matamoras on the 25th of June, (1846.) Leaving the
boat, I took lodgings at the " United States Hotel," of which Mr.
Howard, a warm-hearted and gentlemanly Kentuckian, was pro
prietor. Those who were so unfortunate as to be in Matamoras
at this period, knew well how to appreciate a kind or generous
action ; for it was with some difficulty, among the vast crowd
which then thronged the city, that those in perfect health could
procure the ordinary necessaries of life ; much less could an in
valid, prostrated by disease, look for those attentions called for in
his suffering condition.
It was during this illness that I became acquainted with the two
gentlemen who were afterwards my unfortunate associates in cap
tivity Dr. Barry, of Mississippi, and Mr. Cunningham, of Louis
ville, Kentucky. The assiduity which characterized their disin
terested attentions, can never be forgotten, nor can I ever hope to
extinguish the obligations under which their repeated acts of kind
ness placed me. Ceasing to cherish the memory of those who
could turn aside from their occupations of dealing death and de
struction, to alleviate, with a gentler hand, the afflictions of an in
valid stranger, I should, indeed be ungrateful. To their unre
mitting attention and kind ministrations, I perhaps owe my recov
ery from a disease which is there seldom eluded, during the pro
cess of acclimation ; and in four weeks from the period of my
attack, was sufficiently restored to health and strength, as to be
able to accompany them on a visit to the battle fields of Palo Alto
and Reseca de la Palma. The excursion was one of deep and
mournful interest. It was on the occasion of the funeral of young
Danforth, a regular in the American Army, who had received his
death-wound at Palo Alto, and who, after lingering two months,
died in the same hotel and in the same room I occupied. He had
been taken to the hospital, but could not endure the idea of dying
there, and was brought to the hotel on his own earnest and re
peated solicitations. His last wish was to be buried on the battle
field. He had been but a private soldier yet, in the absence
of the " pomp and circumstance " which usually attend the last
rites of those superior to him in station, the scene was a melan
choly and impressive one. Pecuniary reverses and domestic mis
fortune had driven him to join the regular service, about a year
before the present war. He was a native of Tennessee, and had
been quite a favorite with his regiment, as well as in the social
circle that he had once adorned. His comrades were all ready
to sound his praises and although his private history was com
paratively unknown, his intelligence and unassuming manners,
with his brave and manly bearing, had particularly attracted the
notice and warm regard of his officers. His last day upon the
earth was peculiarly appropriate to the closing scene, even of a
20 DONNAVAN'S ADVENTURES
warrior's career. It was calm and clear, as the soul is, after the
storm and struggle of ambition have passed away. It was one of
those mellow, golden days, experienced alone under a tropical
sun, and the stars and stripes hung in motionless solemnity over
the subdued city of Matamoras. Soldiers were collected together
in small groups, whispering among themselves -and even the
sergeant, when uttering his orders, seemed to dispense with half
his authority. Soon the muffled roll of the drum was heard, and
silent and dejected, with their eyes fixed upon the ground, and
their arms reversed, the soldiers formed in procession. With
measured pace they approached the battle field. Arriving at the
grave, the black pall, which covered a plain coffin, was removed,
and the remains of the deceased were silently lowered into the
earth, by his old associates. The troops encircling the grave,
the word of command was given, and the simultaneous discharge
of musketry announced that a soldier had been deposited in his
last, quiet resting place, beyond the din of battle and the strife
for glory. But the roaring requiems from the arms of those who
had survived him were proof that he had died as a soldier ought
to die full of honor though not upon the battle field.
His old comrades retired, and as they walked mournfully away,
casting back a lingering look upon the newly heaped up mound,
I asked myself if these were the heroes who were carrying the
fame of the American arms to the remotest regions of the earth,
and unfurling the flag of the free over half a continent if men
who could not witness, without the deepest emotion, the burial of
a comrade, could ever have rushed so impetuously to the charge !
Yet I knew that they had, and rejoiced to see that those who
could fight valiantly, could also feel sensitively, and weep bitterly.
But such have always been the character and sentiments of the
American soldier such must ever remain distinguishing features
in the conduct of a people nurtured in the school of social refine
ment and constitutional liberty.
Resuming my situation of clerk on the Ontario, in July, I had
the pleasure of meeting a number of old friends among the vol
unteers from the States of Ohio, Kentucky, Indiana, and Illinois,
who were then arriving at Brazos Island. An almost innumerable
swarm of speculators followed in their train, across the Gulf, an
ticipating a rich harvest, and a realization of speedy fortune. The
vulture-like avidity with which this class of people flocked around
our army, was alike discreditable to themselves and to the charac
ter of our government. Disappointed in attaining their object,
they were often found to be the perpetrators of outrages upon the
persons and property of the enemy in cold blood ; and for which
acts of violence the volunteers were not unfrequently held respon
sible. Men were to be seen here from every known quarter of
JN MEXICO. 21
the globe, without visible means of support, and no resource but
that of peculation and open robbery : in fact, the variety of " gen
tlemen of leisure" was complete, from the well-clad gambler to
the common vagabond, with his dilapidated habiliments, descant
ing upon his "unfortunate" condition, and omitting no opportu
nity to impress the belief that he "had been better raised."
Games of monte, " white or red," faro, and even " old sledge,"
were extensively indulged in, while every other stratagem was put
in requisition to relieve the unsuspecting of their extra change.
It was not long, however, before Gen. Taylor issued peremptory
orders of ejectment to this class of adventurers. And old " Rough
and Ready" is the man to be obeyed. Plain yet prepossessing
in his manners, he combines the firmness and decision of Gen.
Jackson, with much of the iron nature of that old patriot-hero.
In his person, Gen. Taylor is rather above the middle stature, and
somewhat deficient in elegance of figure, yet in his regimentals
he possesses a striking and manly appearance. In his tent, where he
usually appears in his citizen's dress, a superficial observer might
regard him as no more than a common individual ; but upon close
examination, his head will be found large, and formed on the
finest model. His forehead is spacious and elevated his nose
a most prominent feature, and decidedly aquiline. His eyes grey,
keen, and piercing his mouth large, and chin well-proportioned.
He is remarkable for a deep depression between his nose and
forehead, and a contraction of his brow, which gives to the upper
part of his countenance an air of sternness, while the lower part
is an emblem of mildness and benevolence.
Among other ludicrous incidents which occurred on the day of
general dispersion, was one serving forcibly to illustrate the shrewd
ness of Yankee character. A certain " Mynheer," of New Or
leans, rather fresh from the other side of the water, had been re
tailing "hard cider" quite extensively among the soldiers, at ten
cents a glass. The dimensions of his temporary domicil being
rather prescribed, he had arranged the barrel from which he drew
the refreshing beverage, so that one end extended beyond the
constitutional limits of his territory. On the last day of grace,
notwithstanding his anxiety to sell out and close business, he
found his patronage alarmingly diminished. His old customers
came up to the bar as usual, to inquire the price of cider ; but
when he responded " ten cents a glass," they gravely informed
him that his next neighbor was selling " the same article " at half
a dime! Finally, the Dutchman, on walking round to the rear of
his tent, found that a Yankee soldier had tapped the other end of
the barrel, and actually sold out, at half price !
About this period, the army was congregating at Camargo, pre
paratory to marching against Monterey, where Gen. Arista had
22 DONNAVAN'S ADVENTURES
concentrated a large force ; and the boat, on her upward trips, was
crowded with volunteers. Officers and privates who had escaped
the epidemic consequent upon acclimation, were all eager to " meet
the enemy." Many of the young Captains, who had perhaps never
before unsheathed a sword, seemed particularly anxious to immor
talize themselves. How they should " distinguish" themselves was
the all-engrossing subject of conversation, and with their backs
against a chair, their feet planted, in true American style, against the
railing, they would sit smoking their sigaretto, or masticating James
River, with no care to perplex them but the vain hope of glory.
Travelling on the Rio Grande is unlike travelling on the Ohio.
Here, if a man's genius have a philosophical bend, he can give
himself up to consolatory contemplations. He can look out upon
the proud hills, and the well-cultivated valleys, as [ic passes swiftly
over the glittering waters, and enjoy the homes of his thriving
countrymen. He can read some favorite author, or chat with
some old gentleman on the follies and vanities of the world in
general or he may while away the hours with an innocent flirta
tion with some witch of a girl, to whom he has been introduced,
and wreathe the fairy footsteps of old Time with the flowers of
poesy and passion. It is not so easy to find amusement on the
dark and restless waters of the Rio Grande. There you must talk
of battles, of surprises, heroes, and forced marches ; and there is
little to relieve this belligerent monotony except the occasional ap
pearance of the laundresses of some neighboring rancho or haci
enda, rolling up their gowns, and wading into the water with a
bundle of " duds," on washing day. Tubs seldom stand on their
own bottoms in this part of Mexico, for such articles of domestic
convenience have scarcely penetrated that half-civilized region.
As a consequence, their women perform this very necessary part
of household labor, in the river, and from which novel custom
they seem to have imbibed a sort of amphibious nature. It is by
no means an uncommon occurrence, especially on the San Juan
and Salado rivers, to see droves of joyous young girls disporting
like mermaids among the waves, with their long, black, dishevelled
locks, playing confusedly on the surface. Bathing seems to be a
passion among Mexican females, and it is one mark of their supe
rior knowledge in the science of promoting the health and vigor
of the body.
Much has been recently said and written of the Mexican wo
men, of whose personal appearance and peculiarities of character,
we have been comparatively ignorant. The writer may, therefore,
be permitted to hazard his own opinion among others, so far as the
extent of his obversation will warrant him in forming one. Those
about the Rio Grande can scarcely be regarded as a fair specimen
of the sex in the interior ; yet even they, many of them in a half-
IN MEXICO. 23
barbarous state, with all their faults, possess many redeeming quali
ties. They are remarkable for their cleanliness, good behavior,
and hospitality : and they look upon drunkenness and like v ces
with no degree of toleration. In the north-eastern provinces par
ticularly, they are a mixed and mongrel race, generally the illicit
descendants of Mexican, Indian, and Spaniard, penciled occasion
ally with a faint outline of Anglo-Saxon ancestry. Their almost
universally small feet and ankles are just cause for regarding the
understandings of our people with a degree of astonishment, and
I have often seen them in ecstacies of laughter, while ridiculing
the extensive feet of some of our volunteers. As a general thing they
possess great symmetry of form, and their black, silken hair, pearly
teeth, and full, dark eyes, modestly beaming with the most intense,
and expressive emotion, are well-calculated to bring vividly to
mind Byron's picture of the "Dark-eyed Girl of Cadiz : "
" The Spanish girl is no coquette,
Nor joys to see her lover tremble ;
And if she love, or if she hate,
Alike she knows not to dissemble."
It was a bewitching beauty, of this description, that so suddenly
besieged the heart of Lieutenant Deans, and led him into double
captivity. Before the army had crossed to Matamoras, and while
occupying Fort Brown, it was customary for the American band
to perform some national air, evening and morning. On such an
occasion the " concert of sweet sounds," in the music of the Star
Spangled banner," attracted the attention of crowds of Mexicans
on the opposite shore, among whom appeared a number of ladies.
Our "native American," became suddenly enamored with one of
these, and after mutual signs and tokens were passed, he plunged
into the Mexican Hellespont, and landed in the enemy's domin
ions. But in endeavoring to capture his heroine, he was himself
made a captive. It is creditable, however, to the Lieutenant's
constancy, that after the bombardment of Matamoras, and his
trial and acquittal for desertion, he married the object of his violent
passion.
The style of dress adopted by the ladies is by no means prepos
sessing. Among the more common classes, it usually consists of
light slippers without stockings, a flannel petticoat, and a chemise
that leaves a much larger share of the neck, shoulders, and that
entire neighborhood, bare, than our sense of modesty would dic
tate. The reboso, or bonnet, when worn, not only covers this
nakedness, but leaves one in doubt whether the head is a part of
the body, or the body a part of the head.
The females are transcendantly superior to the males, not only
in personal appearance, but in every essential requisite that con-
24 DONNAVAN'S ADVENTURES
tributes to moral refinement. The great mass of the men are
ignorant, indolent, inefficient creatures, distinguished by but one
leading trait of character that trait is treachery, and a studied
effort how they shall obtain a living without work. The rancheros,
or farmers, who compose the great body of the Mexican cavalry,
constitute about the best portion of their native population, so far
as energy of character and intelligence are concerned. They are
half Spanish and half Indian in their extraction ; gaunt, shrivelled,
though muscular in their frames ; dark, swarthy visaged, and
below the ordinary stature. They live more than half their time
in the saddle, and are unrivalled horsemen. They are ever on the
alert, and seldom surprised. When not in pursuit of plunder,
they roam over the vast plains, and employ their time in lassoing
buffalo and wild horses, which are to be found there in countless
numbers. Killing these animals and preparing their hides for the
market, is their means of livelihood. Their costume generally
consists of a pair of tough raw-hide leggings, with sandals of the
same material, bound together wiih leathern thongs, over which is
a blanket, with a hole in the centre, large enough to allow the
head to be thrust out, and which falls rather gracefully over their
shoulders, leaving ample room for the play of their arms the
head covered with a broad straw sombrero, and a lasso in his
girdle, ready for use. Such is the appearance of the rant-hero, in
time of peace, or when engaged in his ordinary occupation. Add
to this a long lance with a sharp spear-head, ornamented wiih a
strip of red bunting, on a horse as savage and unmanageable as
himself, his belt amply supplied with pistols and knives, and you
see him as a member of a troop of banditti, or as a soldier in the
body of cavalry. Cowardly as they universally are in the
open field, yet in a conflict among the chaparal of their own
country, or in an ambuscade, they are indeed a formidable foe.
Their power of enduring fatigue is almost incredible, and a scanty
meal per diem, of jerked beef and plantain, will suffice them for
months, under ordinary circumstances. Such was the personal
appearance and character of the men composing the guerrilla
band, into whose hands we had the misfortune to fall.
IN MEXICO. 25
CHAPTER III.
A Hunting Excursion Capture Journey to Mier Picking Pockets
Appearance and Character of Canales Thefiirst night of our Captivity Novel
Intervieiv with one of the Rancheros Sentence qj Death Mexican Character
Interference in our behalf Sentence reversed Our fate revealed.
ON the thirteenth of October (that most unlucky day of all
months,) preparatory to departing on her downward trip, the
Ontario entered the mouth of the San Juan river a short distance
below Camargo, " to wood." A number of passengers destined
for Matamoras and the Brazos, were already on board, among
whom, were Dr. Barry and Mr. Cunningham, alluded to in the
preceding chapter. While the boat was " lying to," those gentle
men and myself, desiring a little recreation and amusement, went
ashore for the, purpose of shooting deer, amardilloes, or any other
game which so abounds in the chaparel about Camargo. We had
advanced perhaps a hundred yards in the thickets, when we saw
a herd of deer, slowly and lazily receding from us, as if conscious
they were alluring us into difficulty. Forgetting, for the moment,
that straggling parties of armed Mexicans were frequently seen
prowling about in that vicinity, robbing and murdering indiscrimi
nately, we continued the chase and ventured above half a mile
from the boat, when a simultaneous discharge of pieces brought
down two fine stags. With that degree of enthusiasm which sel
dom fails to attend the first conquest in the career of amateur
sportsmen, we eagerly rushed upon our fallen victims to apply the
knife. Exulting in our success, and engrossed in contemplating
the rich and sumptuous feast we should enjoy ; and having settled
the preliminaries, as to how the " saddles " should be served, the
reader may imagine our surprise at finding ourselves surrounded
by over thirty armed and savage looking Mexicans ! Our car-
niverous contemplations were quickly succeeded by a very different
sensation about the stomach. Prompted by the same feeling, our
first impulse was to offer a desperate resistance, and sell our lives
as dearly as possible ; but on attempting to re-load our guns, the
banditti, with their glittering spears, rushed in upon us, and we
were immediately captured and disarmed.
In such a crisis, it is difficult either to describe or imagine one's
feelings. From the notoriously desperate character of those into
whose hands we had fallen, nothing better than an unceremonious
and cruel butchery could be reasonably anticipated. The.situa-
tion of Herr Driesbach, in his cage of lions and tigers, would have
been an enviable one, compared to ours. But they gave us no
time for reflection or condolence, even had the time or occasion
3
26 DONNAVAN'S ADVENTURES
provoked such a train of thought. Tying our hands behind us,
they lashed us upon the backs of their own mustangs, and thus
conveyed us some thirty miles, before sunset. Our entire party
halted for the night in the woods, within a few miles of the town
of Mier, whither a deputation was immediately despatched to pur
chase a supply of muscal. Adhering strictly to the motto, that
" to the victors belong the spoils," they now proceeded to search
our pockets, when to their evident mortification, they found on
our persons only about $70. Of this amount, together with
our pen-knives, pencils, watches, &c., we were relieved, with that
peculiar nonchalance, so characteristic of the Spanish brigand.
Our fate was yet a mystery, and after binding us securely, hand
and foot, and separating us at a distance of about fifty feet from
each other, they commenced drinking muscal and playing at monte.
The night was made hideous by the howling of half starved wolves,
and the unceasing altercations and jangling of those who were
unlucky at cards. Sleep, under such circumstances, was an
" obsolete idea," and the morning, instead of bringing repose to
our sore and jellied flesh, found us involved in dire regrets, and
cogitating on the certain uncertainty of human events. Those
few of our captors who had been permitted to fall into a broken
and troubled slumber, were aroused with the sun, and the crowd
gathered menacingly around us. From their gestures, it was obvi
ous they had been disappointed in not finding more booty, and
were grumbling over their ill luck.
A thought here struck me, which I doubt not was the means of
rescuing us all from a sadder fate. With a very indefinite idea
of the Spanish language, I endeavored to make them understand
that two of us were practical printers an announcement which I
well knew would shield a man from robbery in the United Stales
and supposed it might be a satisfactory apology, even there, for the
exhausted condition of onr finances. They failed to interpret my
Spanish, when a young man, rejoicing in the sobriquet of Poco Lla
ma (little flame.) accosted me in broken English, and demanded
an explanation. To him I made an appeal, in all the eloquence
such an occasion might inspire, and soon succeeded in eliciting
his interest in our behalf. But he possessed no authority, save that
which sprang from the respect and influence he had gained as an
interpreter. The most prominent figure the moving spirit and
leader of the band, was Canalles brother of the celebrated Mex
ican General and guerrilla chief of that name and the same who
was recently shot at Ceralvo. He was an old man, and sat on a
log, at^some distance, leaning lazily forward, with his elbows on
his knees, while he extracted with his jack-knife, the rich marrow
from the thigh bones of one of the slags we had killed on the pre-
"rious day they having taken peaceable possession of the two
IN MEXICO. 27
dead carcasses, and brought with them the veritable " saddles" of
venison which had excited such a yearning sympathy in our own
bosoms. This old reprobate was eager for gain ; he possessed a
keen and insatiable desire for plunder. Ostentatious of display.
he seemed desirous to impress us with some evidence of his supe
riority over his comrades in crime. With an antique and dilapi
dated sombrero stuck jauntingly on one side of his grey, bristly
head his leathery countenance expressing a kind of reckless
good humor, shadowed out from his austerity, and which his pres
ent discontent could not wholly banish he sat venting his wrath
and disappointment through his old, toothless jaws, and sinful lips,
in a succession of oaths and imprecations, and in a reckless and dis
dainful manner, that had long survived his youth. Assuming an
air of anger and ferocity, he drew around him the entire party,
whose exact number we had now ascertained to be thirty-three,
and announcing that we should all be dispatched at once, he or
dered his men to perform the work of death ! Although this in
telligence was not unexpected, we could not suppress the deep
drawn sigh which ever accompanies that stern and solemn verdict.
How rapidly one will glance over the reminiscences of past life, to
dwell upon the bright spots in his pilgrimage, when conscious that
his career is about to close forever ! Saints, in perfect health and
security, may chaunt their choruses, relLiously asseverating that
" they would riot live always," yet when they come to give up the
ghost, and find iheir last tracks on time's territory suddenly sliding
into the dark and unexplored regions of eternity, they are apt to
manifest a desire to renew their lease upon life and to hope,
even in the darkest hour of despair. Such at least has been
our experience. Enterlaining, as we all did, the utmost con
tempt for our " chivalrous captors" knowing that they, as well
as the whole Mexican army, were a people, who in point of treach
ery, degradation, and cruelty, stood pre-eminent among all nations
under the canopy of heaven yet we continued, even under their
sentence, to hope that through some unrevealed intervnteion, our
lives might be spared. The fact need not be concealed, that from
their meanest soldier to their best general, they are a nation of
liars and plunderers. There are a few honorable exceptions, it is
true, but more modest epithets will not serve truly to portray their
general character. The gratification of their sensual desires
seems to be the sole object of life, and money is their god. The
eternal chink of change is their national music. It seems to burn
in their pockets, and they shake it to keep it cool. Boasting of
their freedom, they buy and sell their own free citizens ! There
is scarcely an officer in the army, from Santa Anna down to Gen.
Requina, who has not been publicly bought and sold. Every man
has his price, and such are their mercenary natures, that many of
28 DONNAVAN'S ADVENTURES
them consent to sell their souls, and stalk about in the miserable
shell of mortality, moving libels on the human race, plundering and
murdering those whose more virtuous deeds they have not the moral
courage to imitate.
Our knowledge of this "ruling passion," considered in connec
tion with the fact that our pockets had signally failed to meet their
anticipations of gain, gave us little to hope for, till Poco Llama
conveyed to us the welcome intelligence, that through his "special
pleading," Canalles had reversed his former sentence. We at once
felt a weighty debt of gratitude to the interpreter, and began to
regard him as our deliverer ; when we found that his seeming disin
terested interference had been prompted by the same love of gain
which is the propelling lever to every Mexican heart. He had pre
vailed on Canalles to spare our lives, on condition that he himself
would sell us and divide the proceeds. We could enter no protest
against this novel proceeding, although in our former capacity of
political editor, we had been in the habit of preaching " give me
liberty or give me death," and submitted to our fate with apparent
good grace. Unarmed, and out-numbered as we were, ten to one,
sophistry was our only available resource so feigning the highest
regard for the people and institutions, which at heart we abhorred,
we submitted to the humiliating spectacle of being placed " under
the hammer," and marched off to be employed in some unknown
Mexican printing office, upon a comparatively unknown language.
CHAPTER IV-
March for Ceralvo Diet Pinto Indians Insults JVew Jewelry Sympa
thy among the Dutch Road to Carmillo Scenery Hacienda of San Ma-
tero Ancient Ruins Slavery in Mexico Arrival at Carmillo Beauty
and Amusements A Robber pursuing an Indian A Mountain Pabs
Death among the Mustangs Desolation of a Rancho Arrival at Monclova
Failure to sell Prisoners Confinement in Prison Appearance of the Prison
and Inmates A Mier Prisoner Reflections, &fc.
AFTER an hour's consultation, in which each seemed entitled to
a hearing, twelve of the party, with Poco Llama at their head,
were deputed to guard us for the future. To convey us as speed
ily as possible beyond the reach of the American forces, each was
again lashed upon a mustang, and we took up the line of march
for Ceralvo, a distance of thirty-six miles. Inured to a degree of
abstemiousness themselves, that would do credit to our " Graham-
ites," they had not furnished us with a particle of food during the
twenty-four hours of our captivity, and with a promise of provid-
IN MEXICO.
29
ing breakfast for us at the first rancho, some three leagues distant,
we were galloped off at a rate which exercised our physical func
tions in a manner eminently calculated to sharpen the appetite.
But sadly had we realized the melancholy fact that both rancho
and repast existed only in the imagination of our inhuman mast
ers, long before we obtained a mouthful of refreshment. Over
hill and ravine, through plain and chaparel the thorns of which
had completely riddled our clothes, and even introduced them
selves, in the most abrupt manner, to the " inner man," we were
dragged and driven, till the night brought us up to a miserable
meson (tavern) in the outskirts of Ceralvo. There we were
feasted on tough beef, boiled in pepper sauce, seasoned with gar
lic, tortillas highly spiced, and milk which tasted like water thick
ened with chalk. Uninviting as would have been a collation, con
sisting of such arcotics, at any other time, the aristocracy of our
epicurianism had now so resolved itself into democratic vora
city, as to completely dispel all thoughts of luxury ; and we
continued to gormandize until a number of Pintos gathered
around us, who, as if apprehensive that we were about to make a
" clean sweep," sat down on the floor beside us, to help them
selves. The tragic manner in which they went to work, justified
the conclusion that they had starved as long as ourselves ; so we
quietly resigned the premises to our new adversaries. We after
wards ascertained that these fellows had composed a part of the
Mexican army, and were engaged in the defence of Monterey, on
the 21st of the preceding month. For the period of the armistice
they had been discharged, to shift for themselves, and were wan
dering through the towns, sponging a miserable sustenance. They
belonged to one of the numerous Indian ^tribes, and are called Pin
tos from the fact that, after arriving at manhood, their faces, from
some cause or other, which I did not hear explained, become spot
ted yellow and red. I presumed these variegated colors to be
the result of some mode of tattooing, though at the time felt quite
indifferent as to their cause. They are utterly worthless as sol
diers, for if fired upon once, they never stop for the second round.
For some time we were compelled to sit and endure the taunts and
insults of these barbarous bravadoes, who were soon joined by a
new recruit of swarthy, ill-visaged citizens, to rejoice at our condi
tion. In this predicament, our ignorance of their language was
rather blissful, as we failed to translate their personal insinuations.
It was not until after we had made an earnest appeal to Poco Llama
that we were conducted to our lodgings for the night, where we
were locked up in a damp, dismal room, without a window, and
left to select the softest place on a brick floor, upon which to re
cline our agitated frames while the guard slept before the door,
stretched out upon filthy mats. At sunrise, next morning, we
3*
30 DONNAVAN'S ADVENTURES
were aroused to a breakfast of boiled rice and chili ; or that which
might be more appropriately termed, pepper soup to be swal
lowed hasty enough for the appetite of an initiated ranchero.
Breakfast despatched, we were introduced to iron hand cuffs,
procured for us in Ceralvo. These were an article of jewelry Dr.
Barry peremptorily refused to wear, and it was not until they were
forced upon his wrists that he consented they should ornament his
person. The company being ready to start, a dispute arose be
tween the landlord and our leader about the bill, when Poco
Llama, giving us to understand we were destined to Monclova,
told the landlord he had an unprofitable set of customers, and
pushed on through the town, leaving the bill to " settle itself."
The next town of any importance on our route to Monclova, was
Marin ; but esteeming an approach to that place not entirely pru
dent, in consequence of its proximity to the American army, then
at Monterey twenty-six miles distant we pursued a mountain
pass 136 miles, across to Carmillo. Meandering along this narrow
path over thirty miles, we halted on the third night at a small
Dutch settlement, where the vrows gave us some excellent butter
milk the first article of the kind we had drank in the country,
that was not liberally christened with water. The " grub " at this
place was also quite palatable, and served by the women, whose
gestures seemed to express a lively interest in rendering us com
fortable, with sad regrets for our misfortunes. They could " nix-
for-stay " the cause of our confinement in chains, until they ex
torted a lie from Poco Llama, who told them we had been detected
and captured as spies. The doors had neither locks, bolts, nor bars
and so observing the signs of sympathy manifested for us among
the Dutch, a guard was placed over us for the night.
Our route to Carmillo continued through a country sparsely pop
ulated, yet rich in rugged and romantic scenery. Alternately de
scending abruptly into, and rising from deep ravines, then passing
over immense plains, containing little vegetation, except prickly
pear, among a thin and dwarfish musquite or chaparel, we travelled
some thirty miles per day. Reaching the hacienda of San Ma-
tero on the 18th, we stopped for the night. This place presented
one of the most interesting and novel pictures we had yet encoun
tered. The hacienda is situated twenty-six miles from Monclova,
on the bank of a small, clear mountain stream, called Agua Pensa-
tivo, (pure water,) and near the centre of a lovely basin, some
thirty miles in circumference. The spot bears every appearance
of having once been a populous city. Stone foundations are to
be seen, covering many acres. Innumerable columns and walls
rise up in every direction, composed of both limestone and sand
stone. The columns are built in a variety of shapes, some round,
others square, and bear every imprint of the work of human
IN MEXICO. 31
hands. In many of them, the particles are so closely cemented
as to leave scarcely a trace of their connection, while others are
crumbling and disjointed at their base, as if once inundated in
some mighty current that had swept all else away, leaving bare and
bleached these isolated monuments of its power. For miles in
the vicinity, the basin is covered with broken pottery of burnt clay,
fantastically painted and ornamented with a variety of inexplicable
designs, which, to some extent, serves to reveal the advancement
of a fallen race in the mechanic arts.
Whether these ruins have any connection with those of South
America, is not known. But be this as it may, at some future day,
when a civilized and enlightened people shall succeed the present
population, some geologist or antiquarian may reveal the secret of
their existence. The Indians pretend to preserve an imperfect
tradition of the remains, while the Mexicans believe them to be
the ruins of some ancient city of the Aztecs.
The hacienda of San Matero is a most magnificent and exten
sive seat, enclosing about ten miles square. The principal edi
fice is a large, two story, stone building, in the usual style of that,
country. In the cultivation and supervision of his ground, he em
ploys over three thousand men, many of whom have wives and
children ; so that the population must amount to at least six thou
sand, who reside in rude huts, scattered over the premises. Here,
as on the haciendas of Mexico generally, the laborers are slaves
inconceivably more abject and servile in their condition than those
of the United States. By a law of that boasted republic (?) the
poorer classes are allowed the privilege of borrowing small amounts
of money from the wealthy, who, to secure the payment of the in
considerable sums, take a mortgage on their persons. The con
summation of the marriage contract, in many of the provinces, is
also an essential source of servitude. The fee of the priest on such
occasions amounts to from twenty to thirty dollars ; a sum quite
beyond the command of the great mass, unless they meet with the
good fortune to steal it. The priest will seldom refuse to " tie the
knot," however; and if the amount be no' paid, a mortgage is exe
cuted upon the persons of those who voluntarily become indebted,
and they are slaves to all intents and purposes liable to be trans
ferred, indefinitely. It is true, the law does not openly recognize
unconditional slavery, yet it justifies the mortgagee, in such cases,
in charging those who are thus placed subject to his control, more
for their boarding and clothing than their wages amount to ; so
that each succeeding year, instead of discharging any part of the
original obligation, the laborer but increases his indebtedness, and
is thus held in perpetual bondage. Their release depends upon
one single condition: if from disease, or accident, or through any
misfortune, they are rendered unable to perform labor, and thus
32 DONNAVAN'S ADVENTURES
become unprofitable subjects, they are at once set at liberty, and
generally denied even a shelter, where they have perhaps toiled
for years in servitude. To fathers is also delegated the privilege
of subjecting their daughters to the provisions of this law, and for
a trifling offence, handsome young women are often placed in ab
ject slavery for the period of their natural lives, by their unnatural
sires.
The evening of the following day brought us to Carmillo, a
fairy-like village, whose beauties can scarcely be surpassed in all
the expansiveness of the wide world. It is such an Eden as our
young romantic dreams are apt to picture; where Flora is forever
building up her bowers where willow groves and fruit trees or
nament the green fields where the orange blooms while the
golden fruit yet hangs upon its boughs. This village reposes at
the foot of a majestic hill, whose one brow frowns upon the sil
very curents of the Agua Pensativo, as they toss their white and
foamy waves against the rocks, and whose other casts a delightful
shade over the valley at noontide, as if to shield the pure and in
nocent flowers from the envious sunbeams that would rob them
of their rainbow hues. We entered it through a beautiful grove
of palmetto trees, nearly a mile in length, stretched along the nar
row valley of the small stream, where the Mexicans were ac
tively engaged in horse-racing, as a kind of farce, after the more
tragic spectacle of their favorite amusement a bull-fight, had
just been concluded. A more delightful spot could not have been
selected, and it was literally thronged with people of all ages,
classes, and sexes Mexican women selling pulque, beer, milk,
fruit, cakes, candies, and other nicknacks and every thing con
spiring to remind one of a grand gala-day in the United States.
With the exception of several groups of ferocious looking men,
enveloped in thick, heavy blankets, and who were the living pic
tures of Mexican bravos, every body seemed just as happy, gay,
and contented as if their unfortunate country was not overrun by
the " hairy barbarians of the North the degenerate sons of
Washington," as they politely term us. These men could not
restrain their feelings of exultation, and as we passed on through
Cdtmillo, they followed us, uttering their hideous yells of triumph
over our helpless situation.
Stopping at a miserable rancho near Carmillo over night, in the
fore part of the next day we approached a nnrrow mountain pass,
when suddenly the deep solitude was broken by an Indian, who
made the woods resound with the echo of shrieks from his stento
rian lungs. He was pursued by a Mexican robber, who held his
musket poised for a shot. Hurriedly and unexpectedly they dashed
past us, from the woods upon a broad surface of rocks and sand
interspersed with stunted bushes, at a pace which that starved and
IN MEXICO. 33
tangled chaparel will hardly ever live to again witness. The rob
ber sometimes tripped and fell. The thorns and branches had
torn away fragments of his clothing, and bared his grey head, but
intent upon his victim, he cared for none of these things. All
around towered high hills, half cloihed with shaggy forests, while
their precipitous crags and scars of avalanches gave them an ap
pearance of savage desolation. These nills, in the province of
Coahuila, are the terminating ridge of that chain of the great Cor
dillera, called the Sierra Madre, and are channeled with ravines,
often extending from top to bottom, presenting the appearance of
deep gashes cut in their sides. Many of them expand and grow shal
low as they approach the base, where the torrent of earth and stone
spreads itself over the valley. Up such an ascent, the unarmed
Indian made his way, pursued by his furious antagonist. Our
party all paused to witness the struggle. A little stream, whose
waters at this season trickled down the narrow chasm spreading
over the rocks, afforded a precarious foothold ; but the frightened
savage groped his way, the sides of the ravine towering above his
head, and leaving only a strip of the blue sky visible between their
verging edges. A "fire in his rear" was suddenly heard, and
the mountains bellowed back the report ; but the Indian climbed
unhurt, gaining rapidly on his pursuer. At length a smooth rock,
nearly perpendicular, arrested for the moment, the progress of the
robber. He looked, and saw nothing of his prey. At the re
newed activity of the savage, his anger and disappointment seemed
to generate new fury, and he pressed on. His sole desire seemed
to be that of overtaking and slaying the Indian. With every
physical faculty strained to its utmost tension, he worked his way
up the precipice, over the steep wet face of the rock ; but here
he was compelled to pause, and while his blood cooled, he became
conscious of his danger. Above him he could find no crevices
large enough in which (o thrust his finger, nor a projection that
his foot could rest against beneath he saw the srmm.i aj^Ies of
the rocks protruding from the sides of the ravine, and 6e!ow which
all lay in deep blackness, like a bottomless gulf. He tried to
descend, but his feet found nothing to support them, and while
dangling thus, over the awful chasm, his gun fell from his grasp,
dashing from side to side, and splintered into a thousand pieces.
The thought that he must perhaps soon follow, appeared to urge
him almost to desperation. The grey bristles upon his old head
began to take a perpendicular position, and perilous as was the
task, he ascended to the top. His success was almost miracu
lous ; and his limbs, aching from the long continued strain of
every muscle the ends of his fingers worn to the bone the
flesh rubbed from his bare knees and his heart throbbing with
a violence unfelt while he was climbing, his energies relaxed, and
34 DONNAVAN'S ADVENTURES
he sank down under the effort. In the heat of the excitement,
our party had witnessed the scene, unobserved : and when we came
up to the exhausted and prostrate robber, in an instant he bounded
upon his feet, and assumed a belligerent attitude, as if expecting to
meet the object of his pursuit. The stern rigor of his features
soon changed to suppliancy, and he immediately began to warn
our ' k brave captors" of the imminent danger of the pass, upon
whose very threshold we then stood. We had approached the
edge of the pass, and dismounted, preparatory to crossing, when
a fierce shriek called one of our party back to the robber. But
he had disappeared, and near the spot where we had left him,
stood the Indian peering down upon his adversary from behind a
stunted pine that projected over the gulf. He had turned upon
his pursuer, and hurled him headlong into eternity, over the
frightful cliff!
This pass is within seventeen miles of Monclova, and is re
garded as the most perilous in the hills of Coahuila. Droves of
mules and mustangs are seldom taken over it without serious loss.
So narrow is the passage, that if an animal make a single mis-step,
he is precipitated down a precipice some six hundred feet, and if
not dashed to pieces, is drowned in the water, unless rescued with
the lasso. Two of the rancheros were accordingly stationed
below, on the bank of the small, deep stream, with lassos, while
two remained behind to drive the mustangs. Amid their shouts
and a shower of stones, the animals commenced their perilous
journey, with their noses down to the ground, literally smelling
their way They walked carefully along, till the leader had nearly
crossed the most hazardous place, when he stumbled, and his
hind legs were precipitated over the precipice. With his fore
feet and nose he continued to hold on to the narrow path. His
successor came up, and, " following in the footsteps of his prede
cessor," was soon placed in the same perilous position. The
third mustang knocked the noses of those two off the path, and
losing his own gravity by the act, heels over head, they all rolled
down the steep slope together, and bounding in the air from a per
pendicular off-set, they were plunged into the torrent below. We
thought, of course, they were all killed, but they presently rose
up from the surface, looking astonished at so unceremonious an
immersion, and commenced stemming the current. During this
time, all eyes were turned to the scene below, and the other mus
tangs had stopped, evidently unwilling to proceed after witness
ing the fate of the animals so suddenly launched into the " undis
covered country." They were again started, however, and all
accomplished the pass without apparent difficulty. Only one of
the number that had taken a telegraphic jaunt down the precipice,
was rescued from the stream alive, and he was left on the ground
in a dying condition.
IN MEXICO. 35
This was a sad misfortune to us, as the loss of three mustangs
left us without a conveyance. A ranchero is constitutionally
opposed to pedestrianism, and our ponies were at once taken to
supply the places of those that had been lost. The prospect of
being near the end of our journey was some consolation ; so we
set off, descending the mountain on foot, among the sharp stones,
thorny shrubs, and wild maguey, which pierced us at almost every
step. We soon arived at a small, dingy looking rancho, where we
expected to procure refreshments, but were sadly disappointed.
The place was in a worse state of confusion than the people about
Babylon ever dreamed of; and we learned that a party of Caman-
cha Indians, twenty or thirty in number, had pounced down upon
the unsuspecting denizens on the previous day, killing several of
the men plundered the houses and carried off, in triumph,
the women and children leaving the survivors in a slate of sor
row bordering on phrenzy. We could afford to feel but little
sympathy for them, as that article was nearly exhausted from home
consumption, and we knew that they only wanted the opportunity,
to be guilty of a similar outrage themselves.
Observing several mules about the premises, we suggested to
Poco Llama,that he should furnish us with the luxury of such a con-
veyancebut he disdainfully refused to do so, stating that we were
now quite beyond the reach of the " Americanos," and that a little
exercise might serve to remind us of our obligations to him for
having permitted us to ride as far as we had, in the interior of
their republic.
Just as the last glimpses of departing sunlight were fading in the
far-off west, we entered the city of Monclova, the capital of the
province of Coahuila. We found our quarters here quite com
fortable, and our fare consisted of delicacies to which we had long
been unused. We had now been over a week without a change
of clothes, and the consequence was, we were more ragged and
dirty, than the rancheros themselves. Worn down by the fatigues
we had encountered, we were ready for almost any change which
would place us beyond the control of our present masters. Mon
clova was the first place where we were permitted to enjoy the
luxury of a decent bed, since our departure from Camargo, and
after a night of uninterrupted repose, we were aroused by our
" magnanimous leader," who had brought a purchaser to examine
us. Slave dealers in our own country, like other merchants, gen
erally bestow some pains in showing off to the best advantage their
articles of traffic, preparatory to a sale ; but we experienced no
such evidences of refinement, and presented, by no means, an im
posing appearance. The individual to whom we were offered for
sale was the printer of a small eight by ten sheet, called the
" Espanol " He surveyed us in a good humored manner, and
36 DONNAVAN'S ADVENTURES.
confessed, as we learned, that he should be really pleased to
have a mortgage on us, but doubted his ability to raise the amount
demanded. We never ascertained what that amount was ; and
with the understanding that he would make an effort to raise the
necessary fundg, he departed, promising that in the event of his
success, he would return in the course of a few days, to renew the
negociation. After breakfast, we were somewhat surprised upon
learning we were to be conveyed to the common prison, to take
up our abode in the mean time. Without the least ceremony,
we were at once marched off and confined in this common
receptacle for all sorts of criminals. The edifice stands in the
immediate vicinity of the city, within a large court yard, the
entrance to which is secured by several iron gates, which it had
not seemed necessary to close. The approach to the prison forms
a succession of horrors, the gradual increase of which prepare the
mind for those which are to ensue, and are a fit prologue to the
unrevealed miseries yet behind. The massive doors, with their
huge fastenings the chains, of forms and sizes as various as the
crimes which fill the heart of man, and hanging upon the walls,
as if in mockery of the ornaments which usually adorn ordinary
dwellings ; the thick stone walls, through which the passages
seem rather to be cut than built, cast a chill upon the blood when
entering and the heavy weight which falls upon one's animal
spirits, serves more to check respiration, than even the damp floor
of the prison itself. This oppression is heightened, too, by the
scarcely human appearance of the keepers, who swarm about the
threshold ; and who, if their features expressed the feelings of
better men, a continued commerce with the most abandoned, and
their familiarity with crime, have changed them to stoicism, and
blighted every purer impulse. But painful as is the approach to
this scene of horror, each succeeding step becomes infinitely more
so. We were ushered into a long, whitewashed chamber, lighted
by small windows, secured by iron bars. At one end lay the mat-
trasses and bedding of the inmates, rolled up in as small a com
pass as possible, and at the other a leaden sink, furnished with
water for the use of the prisoners, but to which, from every appear
ance, the premises had not been recently introduced, for the place
was filthy, almost to suffocation. A t the same time so bare and deso
late an appearance prevailed throughout the room, that if all other
circumstances of horror had been absent, there was enough in the
mere look of the place to make one shudder. But the people
the human beings who were to be our companions formed a
spectacle the most revolting.
During the day, after failing in repeated attempts to engage in
conversation with those whom we found could speak only the
French and Spanish languages, we at length came up to a pale,
IN MEXICO. 37
emaciated young man, who seemed to be in the last stage of con
sumption, and who, to our utter astonishment, we soon found to be
one of the Mier prisoners ! He had been kept in confinement
since 1836. His name was Preston Oakley, and he was among
those who were supposed to have perished in the hills of Coahuila,
after the escape of himself and party from Salado. He had been
picked up by a ranchero, in an unconscious state, produced from
thirst and hunger, and after recovering was placed in the mines at
Lake Cayman, where he had remained in the bowels of the earth
until last February, at which time, suffering the almost dying ag
onies incident to a broken constitution, he was brought to this
den of vice and misery, for the purpose of recovering health and
strength, to enable him to resume his labors. His sight, which
he had entirely lost, in the deep, dark caverns, had not yet been
wholly restored, and his pale features looked as if they had robbed
the spirit-land of half its ghastliness. Ten years without a sylla
ble of intelligence in regard to the fate of his comrades, or from
his home, his joy at meeting us may be appreciated only by those
who have passed through like adventures. The circumstances by
which we ourselves were surrounded, and the unknown future that
had yet. to reveal our destiny, awoke at once our sympathy, and
inspired us with a deep interest in the history of his sufferings,
which, as he recounted, his lean, skinny hand would wipe an oc
casional tear from his cadaverous cheek. It was long before he
had concluded his succession of inquiries. Sunk in the deep de
pression of despondency, he had no hope of ever returning to his
native land ; and he earnestly implored us, in the event of our re
lease, to inform his friends where and in what condition we had
met him, and that he should soon be beyond the reach of oppression.
On the succeeding day, after breakfast, which was served on a
long deal table, stretched across the room, with rude benches on
either sic'e, we began to tax our philosophy to invent some means
of occupying the time. We endeavored to bury the realities of
the present, by imagining ourselves in the "halls of the Montezu-
mas ;" but the groups of the haggard shadows of humanity, which
gathered around us, forbade such a conclusion, and we finally sat
down in our tattered and unfashionable garbs, while young Oakley
pointed out some of the prominent characters, and gave us such
information relative to them as had come to his own knowledge.
Near the chimney was a miserable, dwarfish-looking old man,
wrapped in a blanket as venerable as himself, reading, or rather
spelling, a hymn book, which had been given him by one of the
priests, who are always about the prisons of Mexico. He had been
arrested for stealing goats from a neighbor, and was awaiting his
trial. On the opposite side, three men, each of whom was heavily
ironed, were walking to and fro. At every step their fetters rung
4
38 DONNAVAN'S ADVENTURES
on each other, and the regularity of their paces, produced a dull,
monotonous sound, as sad as the groans which may be imagined
to proceed from the prison caverns of the damned. They had
been condemned for burglary, a crime, although entirely fashiona
ble, punishable with death, when committed on the property of
the rich and influential. They seemed wholly unconscious of the
presence of any other persons in the room. In their actions might
be traced a bitter feeling of remorse not repentance of their
crimes but regret that they had been reduced to this helpless
and hopeless condition. A rather superior character to these crim
inals was a Frenchman, who sat near us. His mind had, to a cer
tain degree, been refined by education and travel, and he conversed
fluently in the English and Spanish, as well as French. His
crime consisted in a refusal or neglect to observe a due degree of
deference to the requisitions of the church ordinances. In a state
of feverish anxiety, he was expostulating with himself, upon the
injustice of his detention, and the impossibility of further punish
ment.
While engaged in curious speculations, and thinking what strange
lessons of the human heart were to be learned in a school like this,
we saw a woman enter the prison, dressed in a splendid, but some
what awkward manner. She was approaching a handsome featured
young man, who was engaged in writing a letter at the further end
of the table. She hung over him, as if whispering words of conso
lation and deliverance, and when she looked up, I recognized that
" dangerous gift of beauty " which had lured so many of her sex to
the most fatal destruction. The appearance of these two persons,
in this place of unmixed wretchedness, and among people on whom
privations and confinement had fixed their hard and degrading
stamp, formed a distressing contrast. The young man was of pure
Spanish blood, and had been an artist respectable in his profes
sion. He had long been pursuing a dishonest course, and being
finally detected in counterfeiting, was condemned to death. The
female had shared his short-lived prosperity, and now with a rare
fidelity, clave to him in his lost and fallen fortunes, when all the
world beside had abandoned him. This instance of the power of
that passion which rules the world, struck me as being infinitely
more remarkable than many of those proofs of female affection
which are cited as heroic. .^ >;)
Here were two persons whose lives had been base and profligate
to the last degree that of the woman too vile to think upon
and yet that holy and purifying passion, which neither vice, nor
crime, nor misery could extinguish, now seemed, as it were, to
triumph over all. And in the very hour, when it was the turn of
the most hateful qualities to have uncontrolled sway when every
inducement, even the opinion of the world of that world by
IN MEXICO. 39
which both had been abandoned was in favor of her deserting
the man, she was impelled, by the unaided, irresistible power of
her affections, to comfort his hapless wretchedness ; to strip herself
of all she possessed to lighten the burdens of a wicked soul that
was about to be denied a frail habitation upon the earth and
this, too, for a man whose claims upon her affection, if they could
have been estimated, were probably, as such men's claims mostly
are, less than that which he would have had upon a brute, destitute
of reason ! That intelligent and virtuous females know no limits
in their exertions for men whom they love, excites no wonder, for
it is the result of sincere, ardent, and pure attachment ; but that a
woman, divested of the most estimable attributes of her sex, de
graded in mind and in person, regarded by the better part of society
as an anomaly a monster, belonging to neither sex, but the re
proach of both that she should, in the depth of her debasement,
practice, and in one instance, at least, feel the same devoted virtue
which would have added dignity to the most exalted of women
that she should do this, with a disinterestedness which admits of
no doubt ; for the object of her love was a wretched criminal,
whose days were numbered, and whose name was wedded to dis
grace and contempt this is what excited my astonishment, and the
highest veneration for the passion which can work such wonders.
" The treasures of the deep are not so precious
As are the concealed comforts of a man,
Locked up in woman's love !"
CHAPTER V-
Release from Prison at Mondova Punishment of Criminals Advance of
Gtn. Wool's Army Our departure for Zacatecas Mexican Expresses
Parras Novel Funeral procession Burial of a Muchacha Lake of
Parras Rio Grande de Parras Diet Musquitos Degradation of
Females Implements of Husbandry An Indian City Indian Fortifica
tions Indian Women Captured by the Indians Crossing a River
Attempt to Escape Drowning of a Ranchero Towns and Cities Fres-
nillo Catholic Procession Arrival at Zacatecas.
THERE are tragedies in real life, which, but for their every-day
occurrence, would penetrate men's souls deeper than all the fabled
woes that poets ever yet imagined. They consist of that war
which crime is ever waging upon the dark soul of its victim ; and
it is revolting to be compelled to gaze upon sorrows one has not
the means to alleviate still more humiliating to endure privations
he has no power to avenge. During the brief term of five days'
40 DONNAVAN'S ADVENTURES
confinement within the gloomy walls of the prison at Monclova,
among criminals condemned to die, I received impressions which
years will not suffice to obliterate. It is impossible to contem
plate, without the deepest pain, spectacles of degradation, which
there became " familiar as honsehold words." Laying aside the
enormity of their crimes and the justice of their punishment, the
discipline of a Mexican prison and the tortured agony of its in
mates are enough to paralyze the cold and rigid sensibilities of a
Siberian serf. As I would sit and contemplate this mass of con
scious helplessness and misery, my mind would naturally translate
itself to my own country, and indulge in comparisons. I thought
what a glorious field here presented itself for the benevolent pur
poses of Miss Dix, whose disinterested efforts to restrain the rig
orous discipline of the prisons of the United States, have made
many a penitent heart glad. But the melancholy history of un
fortunate Mexico, records rare examples of pure and elevated vir
tue, combined with accomplishments like hers. Indeed, had
" Solomon, in all his glory." lived out his days there, his remark
" who can find a virtuous woman ? her price is far above ru
bies !" would doubtless have been esteemed as profound as in
his own Oriental land.
The establishment of no penitentiary system is authorized by
the penal code of Mexico. Capital punishment is frequently in
flicted " by authority," for the most trivial offences ; but when the
crime of the transgressor does not merit such severity, the laws
condemn him to serve in the army, for a certain period of time,
stipulated in accordance with the enormity of his offence. Thus,
the position of a soldier in the defence of his own soil, which is
every where else an honor, is there rendered a disgrace. The
law's delay is often more annoying to the criminal than satisfying
the ends of justice. In the capital of each province is a prison
resembling that at Monclova, in all of which men are frequently
confined twenty years, without trial, conviction, or sentence.
No sooner had the rumor of Gen. Wool's approach towards
Monclova reached the ears of our captors, than we were imme
diately released from our inhospitable abode, with a hope that we
should not only find better quarters, but more agreeable compan
ions. We soon learned, however, that owing to the rapid ad
vance of the American army, we had the high prerogative of ad
vancing before them, and were compelled, at once, to take up the
line of march towards Parras, with a fair prospect of a pedestrian
excursion to Zacatecas, four hundred and forty-five miles further
into the interior. The authorities at Monclova received intelli-,
gence of the advance of Gen. Wool, three days before his arrival ;
and it is a remarkable fact that, although their facilities seem to
be inferior, they always manage to compete with us in despatch-
IN MEXICO. 41
ing an express. This may be attributed to the fact that the law
authorizes the rider to supply himself with a fresh mule or mus
tang, at every rancho, if necessary, and to always take the fleetest.
In less than four days after our departure, we reached Parras, a
distance of one hundred and forty-three miles from Monclova.
This was " walking Spanish," with a degree of expedition which
would do credit to the efforts of Gildersleive, or any other pedes
trian. On the night preceding our arrival in town, we remained
at the rancho of Don Manuel Ibarra. The Don, with his brother,
and several other citizens of the town, had been educated at Bards-
town, Ky., and conversed remarkably well in English. Besides
being quite civilized himself, he entertained us in a civilized man
ner ; and his wine came near raising our independence so far
above zero, as to burst our chains, and declare in favor of the
" largest liberty." He asked many questions about Bardstown,
and seemed to revert, with peculiar relish, to the place of his
schoolboy haunts ; and while he made no effort to restrain his indig
nation at seeing us hand-cuffed, he offered no substantial relief.
Parras is a perfect paradise of a place. It is celebrated for the
extensive vineyards, which spread out in every direction from its
vicinity, and for its manufacture of wines, pulque, muscal, and ar-
diente. The streets were all clean and in good repair, while in
every door, and at every window, beautiful senoras and senoritas
made their appearance, who did not suppress their feelings of
deep commiseration, as we passed. It was some high-church day
among the natives, and observed as a fete. The streets were
thronged with Mexicans men, women, and children, all of whom
appeared to have been washed and dressed up for once in their
natural lives, at least. In the morning, before we arrived, there
had been a grand and imposing procession, and during the remain
ing portion of the day, there was a general cavorting or vamosing
through the streets. Those of their soldiers who had participated
in the battle of Monterey, had returned, under the weight of the
laurels they had won in that bloody conflict, and were warmly ap
plauded by the priests and ignorant officials, who seem to regard
every engagement as a victory, however fatal to them the fortunes
of the day.
All nations have their different customs, just as all individuals
have their distinguishing characteristics ; and in a strange country,
to a stranger, both are often interesting. In the evening, we wit
nessed a most novel ceremony. It was the occasion of the burial
of a muchacha, a small female child. The excitement created by
the fete, had been the means of collecting together a large assem
blage ; so that the public places were all filled to overflowing,
and our caravan, " horse, foot, and dragoons," experienced much
difficulty in finding a place of entertainment. While sauntering
4*
42 DONNAVAN'S ADVENTURES
through the streets, under the vigilant eyes of our haughty masters,
our attention was first arrested by the sight of a priest, clad in a
white robe ornamented with various emblems pertaining to the Cath
olic church, coming out of the cathedral, preceded by four small
boys, in their scarlet under-robes, and white mantles, each bearing
a candle branch ; while the dolefully discordant ringing of the
bells apprised us that something unusual was on the tapis. They
had not proceeded far till the priest entered a small house, around
which had assembled a number of males and females. Our ears
were soon saluted by an unearthly sound, which the natives dig
nify with the name of music, but which if Shakspeare meant
should move all who were fit for nought but " treasons, stratagems,
and spoils/' he was quite mistaken. The sound was produced by
three fiddles, and a venerable-looking individual with a large vio
loncello, each playing a distinct and separate tune, if tunes they
might be called, and accompanied by several voices, in an unintel
ligible chant. While this novel performance was going on within,
three men without were engaged in throwing small rockets, which
exploded, making a report as loud as that of a pistol. It was not
long till the padre and altar boys came out, preceded by the mu
sicians, and followed by the corpse, borne on the shoulders of four
men. The bier was composed of a short, rough box, having an
upright cross at the head, shrouded with white muslin, and cov
ered with a profusion of artificial flowers, and other ornaments,
tastefully arranged. At the top of the bier was a dingy brown
figure, about two feet in length, enveloped in a velvet robe, deco
rated with gold and silver tinsel, and upon its head a bright brass
crown, confining a mass of long, raven hair. The hands of the
figure were clasped closely over the breast, and presented, as did
the features, the appearance of wax. From the house, the funeral
procession, which was small, proceeded to the church, where
we presume the service was performed by the priest. At least the
fiddling and chanting soon ceased, and the procession came out.
The body was then conveyed about half a mile, to a consecrated
burial ground, unaccompanied by the priest, but still preceded by
the fiddlers, and men with the rockets. Our captors, whether in
respect to the deceased, or from a sense of religious duty, all
joined in the procession, and we were also required to accompany
them. Before arriving at the graveyard, it was necessary to
ascend a hill, at the base of which all the paraphernalia was left.
Here, to our surprise, that which we had all considered a wax
figure, sacred to the memory of the Virgin of Gaudaloupe, and
which I have described, was the body of the poor little infant it
self, whose soul had been transported to heaven, there to join its
purer kindred spirits.
A strange tradition is connected with the history of the imagi-
IN MEXICO. 43
nary Virgin of Gaudaloupe, and the annual festivals which are held
in honor of her first appearance. The natives contend that she
first introduced herself to an Indian shepherd, in the early con
quest of Mexico by the Spaniards, and commanded him, "in the
name of Mary, the mother of God," to summon the bishop to her
presence. The bishop refused to attend until satisfactory evidence
was produced that the shepherd had not conjured up an imaginary
vision to deceive him after which he erected a magnificent
church on the spot where she had first appeared to the Indian
and the anniversary of the day is yet observed as one of their
holiest holidays. A wax figure of full size, representing the vir
gin, is often used on funeral occasions, which led us to an erro
neous conclusion on this. The funeral obsequies of the child
were brief, and I could not help remarking that there was no
apparent expression of sorrow or regret among the friends, but it
seemed to be more an occasion for rejoicing. A number of the
Mexicans who mingled in the procession, perhaps from motives
of curiosity, appeared highly pleased at seeing American specta
tors present, and one of them asked me if I did riot think it mucho
bueno meaning, very beautiful !
Parras contains about fifteen thousand inhabitants; it is located
near the line, but within the limits of the province of Coahuila.
Some distance from the city, on the west, is a beautiful lake bear
ing the same name, and the waters of which serve to irrigate the
grounds for miles in circumference. We had remained in the
city till the afternoon of the day succeeding our arrival, and after
our departure, encamped for the night upon the banks of this
lake, which is over thirty miles in length, and varying in width
from five to twelve miles. It was sunset when we sat down at
the end of our day's journey, and the dark blue hills in the neigh
borhood looked like chains of amethysts in a golden setting. The
placid waters faithfully mirrored back the beautiful vision, only as
with a light gauzy veil breathed over it. There were orange
groves of no ideal kid ; and the perfumes of odoriferous gums
filled the atmosphere. Acacia shrubs, interwoven with wild lilac
and blue-colored parasite, flourished on the banks, whose refresh
ing fragrance seemed infinitely richer than the breath of spring
in our own fields and woods, during the fairest season of the year.
The delusion was enough to make us forget the gloom which
gathered round our own destiny, till the wild doves upon the palm
branches, in all their native liberty set up their mournful, melan
choly notes. Montezuma hens were gathered in clusters upon the
banks, and a variety of water-fowl, some marble white, others
raven black, were chirping out their monotonous evening songs.
Large flocks of pelicans were floating over the lake, and occa
sionally the heron with his heavy-flapping wings, would agitate
44 DONNAVAN'S ADVENTURES
the bosom of the clear blue waters for the birds in Mexico, like
every thing else, animate or inanimate, are supplied with horns
After the sun had entirely sunk behind the Pacific, on his diuinal
course to enlighten the opium eaters of the Celestial Empire, the
evening glow faded away, but a still softer radiance came to clothe
the pale mountains with rosy tints. The shining stars had risen,
looking out like angel's eyes upon the lake, with none of that
glimmering, as if they trembled with cold, which is seen in our
clear winter nights. Their bright shadows were mirrored in the
lovely lake, across whose silvery flood pueblas floated in their
rude gondolas, as if between two heavens. Along the banks life
was stirring. Fires were burning at the hearths, before the doors
of the huts of the rancheros ; flocks of bleating sheep and goats
were moving homeward; and the barking of smooth, hairless
dogs, the singing of men, and shouting of children, swelled the
concert, and served to beguile the hours of a sleepless night.
For several consecutive days, our route continued along the
bank of the Rio Grande de Parras, (Grand river of Parras,) the
waters of which flow into this lake ; some nights stopping at ran
cheros and haciendas, others in the woods, with no shelter but
the dark blue roof of the world. At the rancheros we found an
addition to the usual diet in the shape of wild fowls, often well
cooked, and whose carcasses we demolished with a decided relish.
An improvement was also perceptible in the appearance of many
of the women, whose pretty faces we could not well avoid look
ing at, and who, although they were rather shy and inclined to
shun us at first, would generally approach us without much sign
of fear, before we left. The picturesque grouping of the man
grove and banana, to say nothing of the palm so abundant on
the banks of this river, could not but excite our admiration. But
it is seldom we experience a pleasing sensation unalloyed with
something of the portentous or opposite ; and while enjoying the
incomparable beauty of this Mexican river, we were not only
annoyed with an oft returning sense of wrongs inflicted by human
hands, but by swarms of sand flies, and broods of musquitos, of
the largest size, and keenest bills, the loudest singers, and sharp
est biters in the universe. Their's is no guerilla warfare, but a
bold, manly attack in front. The fatigues of a hard day's jour
ney was no security against one of their charges, and even the
tough-skinned Mexicans were not impervious to their assualts
notwithstanding Poco Llama had proved himself constitutionally
opposed to settling bills. We may talk as we will about the
beautiful skies of Mexico, her balmy gales, and the gaiety of land
scape, which can hardly be conceived in less sunny climes it
will fascinate the imagination, but will not shield us from the bar
barous cruelty of her musquitos they are the reality of the
IN MEXICO. 45
romance, and dispel the brightest illusions by their sanguinary
onslaughts.
Near a village or hacienda, called Punta Velascos, in the prov
ince of Zacatecas, we witnessed a spectacle which, to the credit
of the Mexican people, is by no means a common one. Repulsive
as some of their customs are, we were not prepared for a scene
of barbarism like this. We actually saw a number of females,
harnessed like cattle, to the plough, dragging it through the soil,
while men were lounging in the furrows, lazily swinging at the
handles. Women were here emphatically degraded to the drudge
of life, and it was enough to make the heart bleed to look upon
the burdens they were compelled to bear. There is no affecta
tion or sentimentality in this it is a plain, but lamentable fact,
which we were happy to find staring us in the face at only this one
place during our progress through the provinces.
The ploughs and other instruments of husbandry, used by the
natives, were such as to excite our curiosity. They are all con
structed of wood, with the bare exceptions of the pick and crow
bar, which are pointed with iron. A Mexican plough is nothing
more nor less than the fork of a small tree, the one prong of
which, being sharpened, serves for the share, while the other is
extended as a beam with a pole or handle attached to the
crotch, and you have completed the celebrated implement which
furrowed out the fame of Cincinnatus himself. We learned that
the " peacock," and other patterns of the improved plough, had
at different times been introduced there, but rejected as "Yankee*
notions."
Between Parras and St. Catharina, we encountered several dif- > ,>
ferent Indian tribes, the first of which was the Yaquis, a small ,
tribe., all of whom reside in a city called Yaqui, the population
of which amounts to perhaps four or five thousand. The features
and general appearance of these people bear a closer resemblance
to the European or Anglo-Saxon race, than do those of the Mex
icans. Docile and timid in their habits, they support themselves
by agriculture, and cultivate extensive fields of Indian corn and
potatoes in the neighborhood of their city. Their buildings are
all one story high, constructed of unburnt brick ; and those of
each square consist of one solid block, all the rooms being in
direct communication with each other. There are four streets
diverging from the centre, where stands, upon a high eminence,
a temple dedicated to the sun. These streets divide the city into
four distinct squares, or districts, each of which has its own muni
cipal regulations. The whole presents a rather commanding ap
pearance, and is certainly creditable to the taste and ingenuity of
its aboriginal projectors. This tribe long since absolved all alle-
46
giance to Mexican authority rejecting not only their govern
ment, but religion, and will permit neither their priests nor civil
dignitaries to come among them. Their manner of worship con
sists of the same forms and ceremonies as did that of the ancient
Aztecs, with the exception of the sacrifices. They have ceased
to immolate themselves upon the altar, probably from the fact that
their race is nearly extinct. The history of this tribe is marked
by repeated acts of the most cruel oppression. About thirty years
ago they were all driven from their homes, and fled to the extreme
north of the province of Sinoloa, where they founded a more ex
tensive colony, and where a great portion of the tribe yet remains.
Those who now compose the population of Yaqui, are such as
were impelled to return, through the influence of that yearning,
instinctive love for their native land, which is, to some extent, in
herent in the breast of the whole human family ; and which so
attaches them to their early homes, that neither outrage nor op
pression can drive them hence. Not only have they been assailed,
plundered, and murdered by the Mexicans, but their honest labors
are taxed to support another more barbarous and savage tribe,
called the Tarenechas, who annually rob them of a great portion
of their substance.
The Tarenechas are a hostile and heathen tribe, a number of
whom are to be found among the soldiers of the Mexican army,
and particularly in the guerrilla parties ; which entitles them to
some favorable consideration from the government. Our route
lay directly through their town or fort, which is on the bank of
the Rio Grande de Parras, not far from the source of that river.
The fort extends from the river bank to the top of a high hill,
the country behind which is inaccessible, and altogether, com
mands a grand and enchanting prospect. The fortifications en
circled the summit of the hill, and consisted of an enclosure of
high palisadoes, firmly and closely secured ; within this there was
a thick, broad hedge, rendered impenetrable by the matting of
ivy, junipers, briars, and other sorts of copse. These circular bar
riers had but two entrances, and within them stood the wigwams,
forming another circle, with an intervening space of a most beau
tiful, verdant lawn, between them and the fortification. They
appeared like a circle of arbors, constructed of young trees,
twisted together and bent to unite in the form of a cone or dome,
at the top, and so ingeniously covered with bark, and often in
more elegant style with mats made of reeds, as to be dry and
comfortable. An orifice at the top emitted the smoke of the fire,
in the centre of each, presenting a life-like and domestic specta
cle. A grand circular area within the whole, was used as exigence
required. In the evenings, the young met in it, and joined in the
festive dance. During the day, it was a gymnasinm, for ^athletic
IN MEXICO. , 47
feats of activity and strength, and exercises in arms and combat.
On more important occasions, it was the forum of counsellors,
who met to dispense justice, and regulate the affairs of the tribe.
An elevated mound in the centre of all, seemed to be a kind of
observatory, from which arose a tall, straight pole, surmounted by
a bull's head.
But we found the prospective far more charming than the place
itself. The nearer we approached, the enchantment of its rural
elegance was dispelled. The filth cast out before the doors of
the wigwams, rose up in putrifying heaps. These corrupting offals
disgusted alike the eyes and olfactories of all but the Indians. In
the sunny space, the young Indians, like groups of grumphing
quadrupeds, had crawled together in a state of primitive naked
ness. Not yet able to walk, they sprawled and sported together,
with that degree of careless indolence a voluptuous clime inspires.
Their hair, which in riper years is jet black, was blanched ; and
the red color of their plump physiognomies was considerably
heightened by exposure to the influence of a tropical sun. A rup
ture finally ensued among these little varlets, which soon called the
squaws from their wigwams, and who came dashing like furies into
the group. Each plucked her particular charge from the uproari
ous heap, and tossing it over her brawny shoulders, screamed in
concert with the shriller pipes, raised to the highest key, of the
outraged and inquiring urchin. The squaws, whom we learned
were seldom on the most amicable footing with each other, kindling
with the supposed injuries sustained by their respective pappooses,
now turned the strife actively towards each other ; and the juve
niles clung to their mothers' backs, grinning, and spitting wrath,
as their guardians pulled each other's hair, and fought with nails
and fists, till a number lay routed on the ground. Such clamor
in the camp, seemed to be no usual thing, and called for the inter
ference of several warriors, who soon calmed the tempest. The
shafts of their lances flourished about the dishevelled heads of the
insurgents like forked lightening ; and battered and routed, the
whole female force fled, growling and whining under their wounds,
to the interior of their hovels. This insurrection brought to the
doors of their wigwams, several feeble, infirm, and superannuated
old fellows, who looked like candidates for " the hunting grounds
above." Their heads were hoary and bald. Though emaciated
and withered, they were not bowed and bent like our veteran
mechanics and laborers, but straight as rushes ; and through their
furrowed, wrinkled, smoke-bleared features, much of the Indian
manly expression might be discerned.
While all these things were transpiring, a crowd, headed by the
sachems, had assembled around us, and to our surprise, taken our
captors captive ; while they stared at us, with as much amazement
48 DONNAVAN'S. ADVENTURES
as if we had just dropped from the moon, or Le Verrier's new
planet. After learning the character of our captors, and the na
ture of their mission, a brief deliberation at the council-fires, resulted
in permitting us all to pass on, unmolested ; not, however, till after
we had dined with the Indians, who feasted us on bean soup, and
the meat of a venerable mustang, that, had a coroner's inquest been
held over his defunct carcass, the verdict would have been, " came
to his death from abstemious habits." While engaged in discussing
the soup, for we did not feel inclined to disturb the dry bones of a
" dead horse," our attention was drawn to a scene of another de
scription. It was the youth of the tribe, just returning from a
pillaging excursion, with three other ill-fated prisoners. The con
querors of Parthia, on their triumphal entry, could not have felt or
expressed higher exultation. They had burned and destroyed three
families of Zamboos, whose scalps they had brought on long poles,
to grace their pageantry. The prisoners which they brought with
them, after promising to become initiated into the tribe, had been
permitted to survive. This was a youthful feat, worthy the fame
of their choicest warriors, and in which they exulted with the en
thusiastic warmth of youth. Though their features were of a
heavy symmetry all of a dark bronze color, some shades lighter
than their jet, bushy hair, yet the fire of the soul animated the
dark, round countenance with the highest marks of expression.
Their large eyes seemed kindled ; and the compressed lips, dis
tended nostrils, and glistening ray that radiated and burst from
their visages, exhibited the native energy of Indian character, which
indolence and want of cultivation had combined to suppress. A
shout burst from the rnidst of them. It was responded to by the
young Indian females hastening to meet them. The warriors joined
in the deafening acclamation, and the fort rung with praise and
triumph. As we retreated from the enclosure, they commenced a
kind of fandango, or war dance, and it was long before their shouts
of revelry died upon our ears.
Passing on through the old military and missionary station of St.
Catharina, we crossed the Rio Grande de Parras, near Sombrerete,
in a novel looking ferry-boat, made something after the fashion of
an " Ohio broadhorn." Our passage was purposely delayed till the
ferry-boat made her last trip, while six of the company were left to
guard us. This was the first stream of any importance we had
encountered during our journey, and apprised that we were to cross
it, we had already concerted an attempt to escape. Being good
swimmers, although our arms were confined behind us, we resolved
to jump overboard, which resolution was carried into effect soon
after the boat was pushed into the current. Quite unexpectedly,
three of the Mexicans plunged in after us, one of -whom went to
the bottom to rise no more. Througli the excitement, and by the
unlooked for rapidity of the current, I was carried a half mile be-
IN MEXICO. 49
low, to the opposite shore, where those of the party who had pre
viously crossed, were awaiting my arrival. As they threw a lasso
over my head, they laughed heartily at the futility of any effort we
might make to escape. My companions, (Mr. Cunningham and
Dr. Barry,) swam to the other shore, but were pursued by the
guerillas on mustangs-, and soon retaken. They made no effort to
rescue the body of the drowned Mexican, but passed on to Som-
brerete with the utmost indifference in regard to his fate. Consid
erably refreshed by this immersion, we set off on the ensuing
morning for Fresnillo, over the best road and through the best cul
tivated region we had yet looked upon in Mexico.
A most striking difference exists between the manner of their
population and that of the United States. From a variety of causes,
such as scarcity of water and timber as a means of defence
against the banditti, and the existence of mineral resources, which
constitute the chief wealth of the country, Mexico sustains nearly
her entire population in the towns and cities, all of which will be
found much, larger than an American would be apt to anticipate.
While in the country, instead of encountering farms or villages at
almost every turn in the road, one will not unfrequently travel three
days without seeing even a temporary habitation. Few of the
towns in the interior and mining districts, contain a population of
less than ten thousand, some as high as sixty thousand ; and all
having a number of churches, which are universally constructed in
the Gothic style of architecture.
Fresnillo, within thirty miles of Zacatecas, contains a population
of twelve thousand. Its neighboring scenery is rich and diversi
fied ; and its numerous gardens, luxuriant herbage, and fertile
fields, serve to render it one of those paradises, on a small scale,
which so abound in Mexico. Our arrival in the place was just a
time to witness the closing scene of another grand Catholic proces
sion, in honor of some of the saints we did not inquire who.
Many of the streets through which the procession had passed, were
yet green with pine leaves, while across them, overhead, were
arches of evergreens, variegated with flowers of different hues.
As is usual on such occasions, all the church ornaments were con
spicuously displayed at different parts of the city, and the windows
of the wealthiest portion of the inhabitants richly decorated with
crimson curtains and silk flags of the most costly materials.
On the following day we had a comparatively easy march, over a
broad, well-constructed road, to Zacatecas. Added to this favora
ble circumstance, the prospect of approaching the end of our long
journey, a very perceptible change for the better began to manifest
itself in our feelings. Our condition was melancholy enough, and
although we had little reason to hope for improvement, we knew
that new cruelties could not well be inflicted for we were almost
5
50 DONNAVAN'S ADVENTURES
ready to welcome death itself, as a relief from an existence offering
so little charm for the future. Our clothes were so tattered and
torn into shreds and strings, as to expose the bare skin to the burn
ing sun ; while at every ventilation, a blister of the same dimensions
obtruded itself into the very face of the sun's rays so the ele
ments themselves appeared to conspire to draw us into fresh afflic
tions. As for boots or shoes, they had long since been dispensed
with their term of service having expired, not by virtue of limi
tation, but the performance of extra service. With bare feet and
legs, lacerated and bleeding, and our physical energies almost ex
hausted after a jaunt of nearly five hundred miles, we entered the
gates of Zacatecas on the evening of the 7th of November, de
pressed even more from anxiety to learn our final fate, than from
what we had already endured.
CHAPTER VI.
Zacatecas Peace Party American Citizens Their Hospitality Our Re
lease Contemplated Return A Mexican Editor.
AROUSED from our slumbers early on the morning after our arri
val in Zacatecas, we looked out upon its broad streets with new
impulses. Situated in the beautiful valley of the Santander river,
the towering peaks of Sierra Madre, with their rich and hidden
treasures, seem to look down upon the city with a kind of paternal
significance. As if limning on her largest scale, nature has here
made all her figures bold and colossal all her features prominent
and strongly marked.
Zacatecas, the capital of the province of the same name, was by
far the largest place we had yet entered, during our progress
through the country. It contains twenty thousand inhabitants, with
well paved streets, and tasteful buildings. Its population is com
posed, not alone of the Spanish and Mexican races, but is mixed
with a number of French, English, and Americans, and whose im
provements, instead of being confined to chemical developments
and the pursuits of trade, are convulsing the moral and political
state of the country. A more enlightened feeling here pervaded,
than in any other portion we had visited. The inert mass of the
province had advanced at least one step beyond their neighbors, in
feeling and asserting their importance. Perhaps it was the influ
ence of example this schooling of their dormant spirits yet
there seemed really to exist half an inclination to enter the palace
of the Belshazzars, and write admonitions on the walls. The still
IN MEXICO. 51
*
small voice of popular rights which found utterance at the com
mencement of the Texan revolution, had not died away, but was
yet audible, and almost ready to burst in thundering intonations.
It will be recollected that in the struggle between the Centralists
and Federalists, when Texas boldly led off, the province of Zaca-
tecas joined in what was denounced as a rebellion. Her people
were soon overwhelmed, however, by Santa Anna and his army,
and subdued. Since that period, the most inveterate hatred of
Santa Anna has existed among all the population, except perhaps,
the priests and officers of the Central government. A peace party,
numbering among its members many native citizens of influence
and wealth, Americans and other foreigners, residing there, existed
at the time of our arrival. This party was awaiting with much
anxiety the appearance of Gen. Taylor and his army, whose ad
vance upon the place was then daily anticipated. This gave to
the Americans a degree of confidence and assurance, which, under
other circumstances, they would not have dared to avow. Having
heard of our arrival and almost perishing condition, a deputation of
them, led by Dr. Hetzel, formerly a resident of Missouri, came to
oui quarters, and demanded' an interview with us in private. This
was at first peremptorily refused. Confined and guarded, as we
were, within a room on the second floor of the meson, we looked
down upon the mob, which was fast accumulating, with peculiar
sensations with that mingling of hope and fear which so strangely
thrills the breast, at the evident approach of a crisis in one's des
tiny. We could not be mistaken in distinguishing among the crowd
the faces of some of our own countrymen for the Yankee never
fails to betray his identity yet we knew nothing of their strength
or spirit, and could not even wish them to make a demonstration
in our behalf, engaged as the two countries were, in hostilities.
They would thus forfeit their own claims to protection, and render
their own persons and property liable to seizure. Their purpose
was soon accomplished, however, without any manifestation of
violence. The mob growing stronger, momentarily, our captors,
at first at a loss what course to pursue, soon settled upon the more
prudent policy of admitting them ; and upon witnessing the feeling
displayed in our favor, with all the semblance of magnanimity, they
offered to relinquish their claims upon our persons !
After briefly relating to our deliverers the manner in which we
had been captured, and the history of the wrongs to which we had
been subjected, indisputable evidences of which were deeply en
graven upon our persons, we were conducted to the private and
comfortable apartments of Dr. Hetzel. To the kind hospitality of
our countryman we were not only indebted for all the means by
which to recruit our physical energies, and revive our jaded spirits,
but for a complete revolution in our wardrobe.
52 DONNAVAN'S ADVENTURES
All again comfortably clad, and decidedly improved, both in
appearance and habits, we began to feel a strong inclination to
return to our homes and country. But our proposition to depart
for Saltillo, a distance of nearly two hundred miles, and where the
American army under Gen. Taylor was then stationed, received
no countenance among those to whom we owed our release and lib
erty. Indeed, the new dangers to which we should have been ex
posed, in the absence of an escort, rendered the contemplated
expedition a most perilous one, and it required no effort of elo
quence on the part of our new, but sincere friends, to induce us to
remain and partake of their tendered hospitalities, until the
advance of the American army should open a line of safe commu
nication to the Rio Grande.
And we were by no means troubled with ennui at Zaca-
tecas. The severe lessons of adversity we had learned in captivity,
taught us, more than ever, how to appreciate the blessings of liberty.
Besides this, every attention calculated to make our sojourn agree
able was bountifully bestowed. We were introduced to a number
of the citizens, male and female, many of whom we found both
intelligent and agreeable. Among them was Leandro Cabos, editor
of the " Heraldo" the only newspaper printed in the city, and
that a most decided advocale for peace. The editor expressed his
sentiments in a manly and independent manner, and did not hesi
tate to avow, both publicly and privately, his predilection for
" Yankee institutions." He not only refused to insert in his paper
any thing favorable to Santa Anna and his party, but would pub
lish conspicuously, all Gen. Taylor's orders which appeared in the
least favorable to the Mexican people. We visited the mines,
gardens, public buildings, besides several natural curiosities
observed the peculiar characteristics of the people, and altogether,
saw and learned much that was to us new and novel.
CHAPTER VII.
Mexican opinion of Yankees Buildings in Zacatecas Ciistoms Merchants'
Shops Business Auction Sales Petty Thieves and their Punishment
Gambling Lotteries Sunday Entertainments Churches Cathedral and
its Ornaments Praying for a Husband Bull Fights Death of a Pica-
dore Cock Fighting Extent of Silver Mines Gold Dust JV'atural
Cave Geological Specimens /row, Copper, and Coal Mines Garden of
Don Alonzo Gomeres Huaco Plant, its appearance and discovery Manu
factures in the City Politics Jose Maria Lafragua Government
Cruelties of Santa Anna Barbarous Execution of a Young Female.
THAT mankind generally, and the Mexicans in particular, are
strange and incomprehensible animals, is among the " fixed facts.' 1
IN MEXICO.
53
From the highly cultivated Anglo-Saxon, down through the whole
grade of animate nature, to the blind and bigoted heathen of Hin-
dostan, every one appears to be dissatisfied with his lot, and claims
a belter one ; while, at the same time, every one is apt to consider
himself better, if not wiser, than any one else at least, he obsti
nately prefers his own manners, diet, dress, and religion, to all
others, and will laugh at or pity those who differ with him.
Among all nations, as well as individuals, (except the Flat-head
Indians,) the organ of self-esteem is unchecked in its develop
ment "in testimony whereof," the great mass of the Mexican
people regard the sovereigns of the United States, just as the
sovereigns of the United States regard them. We are free to de
nounce them as half-civilized cut-throats, and they retort by calling
us adventurous barbarians ; while in either case, perhaps the epi
thets deserve to be modified. True, the people of the two nations
differ as widely as the poles, in their habits, pursuits, and concep
tions of what constitutes refinement, yet many of these differences,
unimportant in the abstract, are the result of the prejudice of
education. Unalterable as were my prepossessions strong as
my antipathies I have seldom been more favorably impressed
with the appearance of any city, than I was after strolling through
the broad streets of Zacatecas. In many respects it will compare
favorably with some of the large cities of the United States. The
buildings are of all sizes, fashions, and colors, from one to three
stories high, the greater portion of which are constructed in the
old Spanish style, with a court-yard in the centre, which is often
used as a stable. This makes a close neighborhood, and estab
lishes a familiarity between the inmates of the house and stable,
on many accounts disagreeable, but neither the one class nor the
other seem to mind it, for they appear to entertain the utmost
respect for each other. There is one appendage about their bet
ter class of houses deserving praise above all others the delight
ful balconies that almost universally grace them. To these is often
added, on a level with the first floor, a corridor or gallery, in which
more airy situation the families spend the greater portion of their
time, breakfasting, dining, or torturing some musical instrument,
among which the guitar comes in for its full share of punishment.
The doors and windows are on an extensive scale, the latter hav
ing neither sash nor glass, are filled with iron bars, through the
broad interstices of which nothing but one's own sense of good
breeding prevents him from seeing what the family are about
within. It is the fashion to arrange some half dozen chairs within,
near the window, facing each other, where the company will sit
gazing at, and talking to, each other with great vivacity. In pass
ing through the streets, innumerable groups of this kind may be
seen, while elsewhere he may find them seated at a table playing
5*
54 DONNAVAN'S ADVENTURES
monte, and often dancing, as if their salvation, like that of the
shakers, depended on the exercise of their heels.
The stores and shops of the city, which are for the most part
under the supervision and control of females, appeared to be well
supplied with every variety of foreign goods that had found their
way in through the ports on the Pacific, previous to the blockade.
Business was said to be dull, owing to the fact that stealing had
greatly improved since the war ; and a number of the merchants
were selling off at auction. At their auction sales a large forum
is erected on the public square or plaza, in which a spear is fixed,
surmounted by the Mexican colors. This is after the original
Roman fashion, and the bidding is signified by holding up the fin
gers. The alcalde's permission is always necessary before the
sale is confirmed. The forum is generally crowded with silver
smiths, or rather bankers' shops, where the articles sold are regis
tered and sealed. By them the names of the buyers are noted,
and the goods delivered under the authority of the alcalde. In
this manner a semblance of the supremacy of law and order is
kept up, while the small retail thieves seldom fail to come in
for their share. Occasionally, one of them is detected and pun
ished. If the value of the stolen property amounts to six reals,
(75 cents,) the thief is condemned to serve in the army
if under that amount, he is taken to the market place, un
dressed, and publicly whipped, with a thick, raw-hide lash, on
his naked back ; just as if eternal disgrace would arouse his sense
of honor. One can get accustomed to every thing but such bru
tality, and a Mexican often gets accustomed to that, for I saw one
laugh after he had been beaten till he bled.
The laws seem to impose no restraint upon gambling, every
species of which is indulged in publicly. Women, with their
montebanks, are to be seen at every turn and corner of the
streets. A legalized system of lotteries, also, serves not only to
lure the population from the ordinary pursuits of industry, but
sinks their whole lives in the vortex of uncertain chance. This
is owing chiefly to the cheapness of tickets, which puts it in the
power of the very poorest to become adventurers. The most
fascinating feature in a Mexican lottery is the worst. Tickets
can be purchased for one real, (12 1-2 cents,) which in half an
hour may gain fifteen hundred dollars. This induces all the poor
people to take lottery stock, and servants sometimes rob their mas
ters to procure the means. The doors of the numerous offices
are always thronged, for the drawing does not cease. These offi
ces are also kept by the women, to whom the government dele
gates the privilege, and it is not uncommon to 'hear an old hag
cry out, " Who will buy my dream ? I dreamt of three numbers."
The ugly women depend on their dreams to effect sales, while the
IN MEXICO.
55
young arid beautiful attract customers by their bewitching smiles,
which on Sundays are accompanied by some wild chant on the
guitar.
Moralizers in our own country complain because the mail is
conveyed, and s'eamboats are permitted to run on Sunday. They
ought to go to Mexico. There it is the gayest, noisiest, and most
business-like day in all the week, and there their doctrines of rer
form might be preached to some purpose. The streets of Zaca-
tecas are kept in one continual uproar, and the noise of omni
buses, diligences, wagons, church-goers, water-carriers, grocers,
and pedlars, seldom dies away before midnight. In the morning,
at six o'clock, the bells of over sixty churches summon the people
to mass. The performances are then slightly varied during the
day. In the forenoon, the regular service comes off, and the
churches are surrounded by a host of carriages and wagons
men and women selling to the visitors fruits, cakes, pulque, and
play-things. A crowd of lazaroni, half-naked, occupy the en
trance, demanding charity. In strange contrast with this filihy,
indolent crowd, is the Mexican priest, who, in his long flowing
garments, covered with gold and silver, as a true and humble dis
ciple of Jesus, passes majestically by them, as if a soul could
never tabernacle in such an humble looking tenement.
Desiring to make the most of our time, we visited the cathe
dral, in company with Dr. Hetzel, who not only knew all the
crooks and turns of the city, but the history of almost every im
portant event connected with it. The cathedral is situated on
Calle de Patria, (Patriot street,) and we soon came in front otf
its vast sculptured figures that have frowned or smiled down upon
the street below for a hundred years. On or near the spot where
it stands, the first church in the province was erected about three
hundred years ago. More than two centuries after this, the edi
fice was entirely destroyed by fire, and was rebuilt by the munifi
cence of Hidalgo, a celebrated priest-general, who flourished his
brief hour in the days of the revolution. It is an enormous pile,
the construction of which occupied over twenty years. It would
be idle to enter into an architectural criticism upon this church,
but I may be allowed to say that were it not for its jumble of or
naments, by which all the effect of simplicity one of the highest
elements of beauty is lost, it would be regarded with the most
profound admiration by every beholder. The entrance is by three
marble porches. It has two towers resting on the walls, one of
which is remarkable for having been built with money paid for
indulgences to eat meat in Lent. The spire at the junction of
the nave and transepts, is built of cast iron bars, with a geometri
cal staircase winding its way to the top, some 400 feet. It looks
much like the frame of a steeple, but very little like a steeple
56
ADVENTURES
itself. The interior is about 420 feet in length, and the height of
the vaulting of the nave is 87 feet. The effect of the interior is
exceedingly imposing, and is greatly heightened by the fine rose,
and other windows of beautifully stained glass. It was not so
much, however, on account of the beauty of Gothic arches and
pictured windows, through which a flood of richly-colored light
was shed over the delicate tracery and sculptured saints, or poured
along the extended aisles, that I lingered in this cathedral. It
was to dwell upon the lineaments of the proud priest's counte
nance. He was the son of Hidalgo himself, and was officiating
in the funeral ceremonies of his distinguished father, whose re
mains had been exhumed from their narrow home at Dolores, to
be deposited in the chapel at the cathedral in Zacatecas. He
possesses the religions, but not the military qualities of his father.
The churches of Mexico are not furnished with seats or pews,
ns in the United States ; and on entering, one is struck, not only
with the uneasy and uncomfortable position of a large congrega
tion on their knees, on a hard brick floor, but by the gold and sil
ver pillars and balustrades, which surround the altar, the rich
gold altar itself, and the countless images of saints and angels,
with expanded wings, looking down from their eminent positions,
as if to guard and bless the groups of half-clad and penitent men
and women, kneeling around the altar beneath them.
The most implicit confidence is placed in the power of the
saints, and the variety of distinct offices they have to perform,
makes their catalogue so extensive, that he who is not particularly
interested in soliciting their favors, will seldom become familiar
with their names. One of these saints, it does not matter about
his name, is said to preside over Hyrnenial affairs, and the young
ladies frequently pray to him for husbands till the drops of perspi
ration roll down their bare necks like the sources of a young
river. This is really "getting into a sweat" for a husband, but
it serves to show that they are free from the sin of coquetry. If
they become favorably impressed with the appearance of a young
man, they are unremitting in their devotional exercises, and,
through their petitions to the saint, almost invariably succeed in
gaining his affections. The saint enjoys the moral reputation of
never having directly interfered in granting a prayer which would
deprive a married woman of her husband, but has frequently
broken off engagements, at the earnest request of a pretty girl
a decided mark of gallantry, notwithstanding his absolute power
over the affections of the young.
In connection with this subject, a most amusing circumstance
occurred on the morning of the fifth day after our arrival at the
city. Mr. Cunningham, (one of my companions,) being a man
of fine personal appearance, was called up at four o'clock by a
IN MEXICO. . 57
man, who delivered a note from a lady to whom he had been in
troduced a day or two previous, and with whom he had a very
slight acquaintance, slating that her husband had died on the pre
vious evening, and begged he would hasten to her assistance, as
she had been most devoutly praying for him. He called upon
the disconsolate widow, agreeable to her request, and has since
often wished that the saint had granted her prayer, and thrown
him into the arms of this Delila, instead of a prison-printing
office.
But I have not completed an enumeration of the amusements
that occupy a Mexican Sunday. Among the most interesting to
the citizens was a bull-fight, which came off in the public plaza,
at 2 o'clock in the evening. So infatuating to the natives is this
spectacle, that they would leave their prayers or meals half-finished,
to witness it ; though one sight will generally satisfy the curiosity
of an American. The price of admission to the seats within the
plaza was one dollar, where a promiscuous crowd of some ten
thousand persons had assembled, composed of men, women, arid
children, of every rank and station. Two bands of music, the in
struments consisting of drums, violins, violoncellos, guitars, flage
olets, and French horns, besides the horns of five bulls, were en
gaged for the occasion. A man on horseback and three picadores,
or footmen, were to fight the bulls, one at a time. The animals
are confined in a small enclosure, adjoining the amphitheatre,
and after torturing each one about half an hour, with sharp iron-
pointed poles, ornamented with ribbons, the gate is hoisted and
he rushes into the plaza, with long strips of crimson silk depend
ing from his horns and tail, and roaring like a full grown lion.
His sonorous bellowings are soon drowned, however, by the deaf
ening acclamations of the crowd, and the horseman dressed in a
cloak of rich and variegated colors rushes upon the brute with his
lance. It was the bull's turn next, and being a strong, healthy
looking fellow, foaming with rage, he thrust his horns into the
horse, and gored him to death in an instant. The rider and pica-
dores vamosed, or vanished, as speedily as possible ; but soon re
turned to renew the attack upon their adversary, who stood
twisting his tail in conscious triumph. In .making his second
charge the horseman caught the bull by the tail, and passing it
under his leg, wheeled his horse and brought his adversary to his
knees, when he again wheeled and inflicted a severe incision in
the bull's neck with his lance. At this, the bull became rather
" cowed," and was hissed off the stage. The second bull was
then let in, and pitched into the horseman in the same unceremo
nious manner, but not with the success of his predecessor. A lick
in the short ribs, by one of the picadores' pike poles, felled him to
the ground, when they proceeded to pin a number of lighted
58
rockets to his neck, the explosion of which, instead of frightening
the poor brute, as I presumed it would, caused him to stare in a
most sarcastic and contemptuous manner at his persecutors. He
then approached in a most menacing mood within a few feet of
one of the footmen, but the skill of the latter in wielding his
stick, enabled him to stand his ground, and pierce the enraged
animal till the blood gushed profusely from his nostrils, and he fell
amid a shower of applause from the spectators. But the triumph
was reserved for the last bull, who turned the after-piece into a
thrilling tragedy, somewhat in violation of the general programme.
He was a lean, guant-looking quadruped, but blessed with the
nerve of a Hercules. Owing, perhaps, to his cadaverous appear
ance, they had not deemed it necessary to saw off the points of
his horns, as they had those of the other animals, and upon the
very first assault, he despatched one of the picadores by thrusting
his horns through his body, and as if proud of his victory, thus
carried him half a dozen times around the ring, when he tossed
his lifeless body into a crowd of children, breaking the arm of a
machucha. This, however, although not in the bills, was a part
of the sport, and was as loudly cheered as any other portion of
the performance. Indeed, there was some show of justice in giv
ing the bull a round of applause, as the animal seemed to have
no friends there ; and as it was next to be his turn, it was perhaps
gratifying to die full of honors.
The entertainment continued till the bull was victimized, when
the company dispersed, all shouting at the top of their voices, " Ave
Maria purisime losgallos viennen," which translated, signifies, hail
purest Mary, the chicken-cocks are coming ! And proceeding to
the cock-pit on the opposite side of the plaza, a great variety of
the best specimens of that bird, so intimately associated with the
party politics of our own country, were found ready to indulge their
war-like propensities for the gratification of those whom it is well
ascertained would much rather " look on " than do any fighting
themselves. There is no limit to the betting, or to the amounts
staked, and I have seen, more than once, fifty thousand dollars lost
and won on a single cock-fight.
Here the world is seen tossing around in all its splendor, and
the innumerable vices that splendor generates, by abase perversion
of all the elements of happiness. Drunken Indians congregate at
every corner to curse police officers, and laugh at the women in
their stiff Sunday petticoats ; while others scarcely clad at all, with
half a dozen new editions at their heels, and one tied to their
brown backs, promenade the thoroughfares, the very daguerreo
types of misery and shame. At night all this loose population as
semble at different places of amusement coffee-houses, dancing
saloons, etc., until the hour of midnight mass, when the churches
are again thronged.
IN MEXICO. 5y
But amidst all the confusion of tongues, the hum of a foreign
language, the reckless poverty and unbridled vice, there are many
redeeming associations connected with our brief sojourn in Zaca-
tecas. Of all places in the world, Mexico is the last, where a
foreigner should undertake to preach morals, or instruct in man
ners, if he wish to avoid being considered a decided bore. It is
quite certain that much of their treachery and distrust are the re
sult of an officious interference by foreigners, who have endeavored
to instruct them in their social and domestic relations. We were
not there as missionaries, and our only prayers were, in the lan
guage of Florida's motto, " to be let alone." We visited the silver
mines, in the adjacent mountains, which are among the richest in
Mexico. Although not so extensively worked as they were some
years ago, over twelve thousand men are employed in the mines,
and more than three thousand persons in the mint, which is second
in importance to that in the city of Mexico, and has frequently
coined $75,000 in the short space of twenty-four hours. The
mines are entered by deep caverns cut in the sides of the moun
tains, through solid quartz, sometimes gradually descending, and
at others ascending, a parallel distance of two miles, always fol
lowing the vein. The ore is contained in the stone, which, when
quarried, is ground into powder ; the dust is then thrown into
great reservoirs of water, where the precious metals are detached
through a chemical process. It is asserted upon good authority,
that the richest gold mines in the world exist in the vicinity of
Zacatecas, but the instability and unsettled state of the government
has offered no inducement to capitalists to engage in working them.
We were shown the spot, at the confluence of two small streams,
which wound through the steep and crooked ravines, were gold
dust, valued at one million of dollars, was scraped up from the sur
face with the hand, only a few years ago, by a French geologist.
Among the greatest natural curiosities of the country is a cave
in one of these towering mountains ; which, although of no very
great dimensions, exceeds in beauty and sublimity any thing of the
kind I have ever visited. The principal entrance is from the west,
on the bank of the Santander river, where a passage has been ex
cavated by the hand of nature, sufficiently large to admit several
persons abreast, and which is about sixty feet in length. At the
extremity there is a sudden bend, or rather projection of the lateral
rock, which, when passed, gives an unexpected and magnificent
view of the interior cavern, presenting a circular chamber some
hundred feet in diameter. Stalactites, ever varying in form and
color, lend their magic effect to the scene, and reflect the light
beams from the entrance to every nook of the subterranean apart
ment. Near the centre is a calcareous spring, which imparts a
coolness to the atmosphere, grateful in the extreme to those who
60 DONNAVAN'S ADVENTURES
have just escaped the heat of a tropical sun. A tufa is deposited
from the waters, which has risen in a circular mound more than
twelve feet from the surface of the place. Over this, on every side,
the water pours, producing a singular and picturesque fountain, and
making it a favorable resort at all seasons of the year. Belemnites
are to be found in the interior, and occasionally masses of siliceous
matter, and crystallizations of salt. This shows a rather remark
able geological family connection, for while the stalactites are indi
genous to a moist climate, saline matter is usually confined to one
inclined to dryness. Throughout these mountains marbles abound,
and present a great variety. The Kaolin clays, the alumine earths,
and other minerals necessary to the arts, such as iron, copper, and
lead, are found in innumerable places. Bituminous and anthracite
coal are found in inexhaustible quantities, existing in mountain mas
ses. The anthracite beds are directly accessible, requiring no sink
ing of shafts, and there are no choke damps or gaseous explosions
to be encountered in reaching it.
But the most desirable resort about the city is the garden of
Andalusia, owned by Don Alonzo Gomeres. A view of the city
from this point presents a peculiar attraction ; and having been
in the frequent habit of making sketches, my friend Cunningham
here importuned me to present him a view of it, only a small por
tion of the buildings of which were visible. The garden contains
an enclosure of some three thousand acres, and every thing is
upon the most magnificent and instructive plan. The plants are
set at a convenient distance in rows, like a nursery, and grouped
together in classes and families, according to the natural system
of Jussieu. By each specimen, elevated on a small rod, is placed
a silver label, on which is inscribed its botanical name and the
country to which it belongs, with a character distinguishing
whether it is annual, biennial, or perennial ; as also a black, red,
yellow, or blue stripe across the top, denoting the plant to be poi
sonous, medicinal, ornamental, or edible. Besides these smaller
labels for each species, there were larger ones at the head of each
class or tribe. Thus, commencing with the mushrooms, mosses,
and other cryptogarnous plants, at the extremity of the enclosure,
one can inspect row after row, gradually ascending to the proud
est tree of the forest ; including in all, some fifteen thousand
specimens of the vegetable kingdom. Here trees may be seen
growing within trees, and in every wild, fantastic shape, which
the ingenuity of both man and nature combined, could invent.
Orange trees are stripped of their branches, then perforated
through their whole length, and through the roots to the ground
beneath ; then young plants of the jessamine, fig tree, rose and
myrtle, are selected and arranged in twos or threes, according to
fancy, and the size of the aperture in the trunk of the orange
IN MEXICO. 61
tree, and passed through so as to reach a short distance above the
top of the latter the roots are then covered with earth, watered
and cultivated as if just planted. The tree and young plants
then grow together, and will live ancf flourish for ten or fifteen
years, presenting a most beautiful and novel appearance.
In this garden I became acquainted with the celebrated huaco,
an herb much distinguished for its medicinal virtues, and which is a
certain antidote for poison. It belongs to the Gordonia genus;
and is a pretty shrub, growing from one to two feet high, with
leaves peiiolate, oblong, and toothed, shining above and pubescent
beneath. The flower resembles that of the orange in both ap
pearance and smell. The calyx has five unequal leaves, and the
carolla has five spreading white petals like the rose. The first
discovery of the medicinal qualities of the huaco is attributed to-
a large bird that feeds upon snakes and reptiles in the savannas
of the South. Many years ago the natives observed that this
bird, called the Guayaquil, after a combat with a snake, would
search for the herb and eat it ; hence they supposed it to be an
antidote for poison, which experience has proved to be correct.
An internal affection may be speedily cured by chewing the herb
and swallowing the extract, while the extract is applied external
ly to remedy the bite of the snake. The herb is also said to be
an effectual cure in cases of hydrophobia ; and so highly appre
ciated are its virtues, that a Mexican is seldom found travelling
without it.
The manufactures of Zacatecas are inferior to those even of
its neighboring cities. A few coarse cotton and woolen cloths
are made, but the chief interest of the people is attracted to min
ing and merchandising. There are a number of potteries in the
city, where a variety of wares are manufactured. The potters
work in the open air, and shape their work with remarkable dex
terity, on a simple wheel, horizontally arranged, and revolving
close upon the ground, so as to permit them to sit, according to
the custom of all lazy people. These wares are burned in large
open ovens. They make tiles, and water and cooking pots ; but
the finer wares, manufactured in other countries, are unknown to
them. Their most curious article is a large vessel for holding
grain, much the shape of a Chinese jar, and capable of containing
several bushels.
Among the better and more intelligent classes in the province
of Zacatecas, may be numbered more enthusiastic admirers of
our own institutions, than in any other state of Mexico. The
federal or state rights party have ever been in the ascendency
there, and cast the vote of the province, at the last presidential
election, for Jose Maria Lafragua, the acting Governor, who was
prompt in denouncing the measures of Santa Anna, as far back
62 DONNAVAN'S ADVENTURES
as the Texan revolution. He is a man of some experience in
government and political philosophy ; and although seduced by
the rapid advancement ancj complete freedom of the United States,
he would not countenance the dismemberment of the Mexican
provinces ; while he frankly confesses that a want of intelligence
and energy among his own countrymen renders them incompetent
to sustain a compact similar in construction. There is a great
difference between the condition of the United States, founded
and established under the shelter of institutions approaching re
publicanism, and that of the Mexican provinces, which have for
three hundred years depended on a monarchical and despotic
government. In the latter, democratic forms were new, and
many of them opposed to the customs, habits, and inveterate preju
dices of the people. In the former, little else was necessary but
to vary the appointment of officers. Even the constitutional
charters and laws of some of the former provinces of the United
States, answered for the same when transformed into republican
States. In Mexico it was necessary to change almost every thing
which existed. There is nothing wonderful, therefore, in the an
archy which has characterized their existence the laws were
not adapted to the people. Mexicans who possess a knowledge
of the world and of men, are fully apprised of these things; and
it was a sense of the utter helplessness of their position, under a
government without character or stability, that induced the Zaca-
tecans to join Texas, in throwing off the yoke of a central and
military despotism, to form an independent government. Less
fortunate than their new neighbors, they then received a reproof,
the details of which, for the credit of civilization, have never
come to the ear of the world. With the bloody butcheries of
Santa Anna and his forces in Texas, most of us have become
somewhat familiar ; but of the dark and disgraceful cruelties
which marked his advance through Zacatecas, we shall have no
complete record. It was a most unhappy period, and if the sins
of Sodom and Gomorrah were enough to sink those cities, I could
not imagine a punishment the severity of which would be com
paratively appropriate in Santa Anna's case. At the head of
military and civil authority, he marched an army among his own
people, not only to murder, but to outrage their hearths and altars.
A father had no security that his daughter or wife would not be
corrupted by the officers of his own country, by means of the
terror which they inspired, and the influence which their situa
tion imparted. Any officer, who wished to free himself from the
importunate presence of a father or a husband, or who desired to
get possession of his property, instituted a process against him as
an insurgent, and was sure that his superiors would applaud his
zeal in the service of Santa Anna. No case of this kind made a
IN MEXICO. 63
more profound and lasting impression upon the inhabitants of Za-
catecas, nor manifested more clearly the extent to which cruelty
was carried, than that of Leonor Rovira. She was a young any
handsome female, enthusiastically attached to liberty, favoring and
giving aid to the oppressed patriots, and to those who, in the dark
est hour had resolved to fly to the plains of Texas, from whence
they hoped that freedom might yet come to their own province.
She loved arid was beloved by a youth who had been an officer
of the province, and was now compelled to serve as a common
soldier, in the desolating army of Santa Anna. Through the in
fluence she possessed over him, he was induced to desert, and fly
to Texas. Leonor made arrangements for the flight of a number
of other persons, of whom several were of the army. She pro
cured exact statements of Santa Anna's forces, with lists of the
names of patriots and other persons who could be trusted, all of
which she transmitted to Gen. Houston. Her lover and his com
panions were discovered and apprehended in their flight. The
letters and other papers betrayed Leonor, who was with them
thrown into prison. The cause was tried by martial law, and dur
ing its progress this young female is said to have manifested much
presence of mind and the most unshaken courage. She would
compromise no one by her declarations, and the judges could not
elicit from her any confession of the means by which she procur
ed the statements sent to Texas. Finally, she and forty others
were condemned by a council of war to the punishment of death,
and to be shot in the back. She is said to have heard the sen
tence with the utmost composure and tranquility, preparing herself
for death like a Christian and a heroine and walking to the
place of execution with a firm step, she bitterly reproached her
murderers for their barbarous cruelty. And exhorting her com
panions to die with the character and firmness of freemen, she an
nounced, in a clear and audible voice, that her blood would soon
be avenged by the deliverers of her oppressed and degraded
country. She was shot in the principal plaza. Her constancy
and courage astounded even the iron hearts of a rapacious sol
diery, and the memory of her premature sacrifice has doubtless
served to keep alive the burning embers of revolt in Zacatecas, to
the present day.
64 DONNAVAN'S ADVENTURES
CHAPTER VIII.
Impending Difficulties Santa Anna at San Luis Potosi Priests heading
Guerilla Parties Arrival of a Detachment from Santa Anna's Army Re
captured by the Mexicans Arrest of Citizens of Zacatecas March to San
Luis Potosi Mexican Soldiers, and their Manner of Enlisting City and
Prison of San Luis Potosi Execution Mode of inflicting Capital Pun
ishment Invitation to join the Mexican Army Our indignant Refusal
Departure for Acapulco Estate of Joral Dolores City and Churches
of Guanajuato.
THE endearments of home and friends, the love one bears
for his native land, and the partiality he feels for its institutions,
can never be fully realized lill placed beyond their reach and influ
ence. Then it is that the natural yearning of the heart will viv
idly recall endearing associations ; and burying all the little ani
mosities and faults he may find with our government when at
home, he will be sensible only to its virtues and its blessings. It
is a remarkable, though a very inconsistent trait, in the character
of an American, that however much he may dissent, dispute, de
plore, in the heat of party conflict at home, and even prophesy
the impending ruins which are to be the inevitable result of each
succeeding presidential election, let him hear the very same senti
ments uttered in a foreign land, or the eternal permanency of his
country's institutions for a moment doubted, and his indignation
will have no bounds. In the true Yankee spirit, he will ever be
found ready to " argue the question," by contrasts, which are
always sure to redound to his ow.n advantage.
We had been one week in Zacatecas. Although in the full en
joyment of personal freedom, the circumstance of our release had
lo some extent exasperated the authorities, and with no assurance
of safety for any definite period, the approach of the American
army was daily looked for with a great degree of solicitude.
Santa Anna was at this time concentrating his forces at San
Luis Potosi, only 190 miles distant, where he had arrived on the
8th of October. Our former captors had not been seen after
holding a consultation with the priests and authorities, on the
memorable morning of our release. Companies of soldiers and
rancheros were to be seen in the streets, however, at almost any
hour ; and Santa Anna having issued his most eloquent appeals
to the clergy, many of them were induced to doff their sacerdo
tal robes, for the time, and join in the last desperate struggle to
retain their supremacy. The priests, ever jealous of their power
and influence, even became so fanatical as to place themselves at
the head of guerilla parties, raised in the neighboring mountains.
IN MEXICO.
Weak and apparently inactive as these bands at first were, the^y
daily gathered new strength, till they began to assume a more in
timidating character. Although formidable in point of numbers,
the peace party had issued no pronunciamento, which is the first
act preparatory to a revolution. They gave unreserved expres
sion to their opinions, yet they assumed no attitude of open hos
tility towards the authorities of the central government. Revolt
was not surmised either by the friends or enemies of Santa Anna,
and the avowed object of the guerilla bands was to join a division
of his forces to be sent from San Luis Potosi in the event of Gen.
Taylor's expected arrival.
Those accustomed to a well-regulated government, seldom feel
secure in Mexico, either in their persons or property ; and at this
crisis many of those who had figured rather conspicuously in the
peace party, would have evacuated the place, had not retreat been
more hazardous than to remain. Their only hope, as well as our
own, was in the advance of " Old Rough and Ready," who at
that time would have been welcomed in a much more hospitable
manner than he was at Monterey.
On the 13th of November, the thunder of artillery announced
the approach of an army, and it is impossible to portray the con
fusion and out-bursts of enthusiastic rejoicing it created among
all classes. The peace party hailed it as Gen. Taylor's anticipa
ted advent, the authorities and clergy knew it to be a detachment
from San Luis Potosi, while others, enveloped in total ignorance,
shouted because the crowd did.
The mystery was soon revealed, however, when the green
roundabouts of the Mexicans became visible, and the army, over
three thousand strong, under the command of Gen. Requina,
marched into the city, and quartered on the principal plaza. It
was soon ascertained that this force had been despatched by Santa
Anna, to quell certain indications of revolt in the city of Zacaiecas,
of which the clergy had promptly given him information.
The night which followed was one of consternation and horror.
It was just one month from the date of our captivity atCamargo,
and one week after our release from the hands of cruel and un
feeling tyrants at Zacatecas. With Dr. Hetzel, John Allman,
Lucius Enfield, and George B. Gentry, all Americans, we were
the first to be arrested. After the arrests commenced, many es
caped through the gates, and took refuge in the neighboring moun
tains, while hundreds of citizens were dragged from their homes,
and placed under guard, to be tried as rebels, their property con
fiscated and destroyed, and their sanctuaries entered and desecra
ted by the rnob. The citizens, unarmed, could make no resist
ance against a force which, including the guerilla bands, amounted
to more than seven thousand men, had they been disposed to do
66 DONNAVAN'S ADVENTURES
so, and they submitted to trial. Many were discharged, others
were condemned to serve in the army ; while we, with six other
Americans, were sent to San Luis Potosi, and again incarcerated
in the common prison, with the most abandoned felons.
If we had before held our lives by a precarious tenure, what
could we now expect, after inciting almost a rebellion, and arous
ing the indignation of Santa Anna himself. We had never en
tertained a very flattering opinion of his humane disposition, and
his former persecution of the Zacatecar.s, with a knowledge of
his cruelty to the Texans, was poorly calculated to .elevate him in
the esteem of any one.
Approaching San Luis Potosi, from Zacatecas, we passed
through the flourishing towns of Pinos, Ojocaliente, and Aguas-
caliente, each containing some 12.000 or 15,000 inhabitants.
Under a strong guard, we entered the city of San Luis Potosi,
on the evening of November 19th, preceded by a large company
of new recruits for the Mexican army. These recruits consisted
of Indians, who had been forced from their homes and re
quired to serve during the campaign. Their hands were bound
to their backs, and they were paired off, and tied together. This
is the manner in which the ranks of their army are filled, so that
it is little wonder they express great surprise at our system of vol
unteering.
San Luis Potosi is situated in the valley of the Panuco, a river
falling into the Gulf near Tampico, and which might be made nav
igable for steamboats as far up as Tula, over one hundred miles
from the mouth, and seventy miles below the city. In importance
it is the second city in the republic in population the third
containing 60,000 inhabitants. It is located in a rich mining region ;
but from some causes these sources of wealth have been greatly
neglected within the past ten years, and the attention of the citi
zens directed more to manufacturing. The Panuco river afTords
excellent facilities for manufacturing, which are to some extent
improved. Woolen and cotton cloths, hats, boots and slices, and
other articles, are here made for expor'ation to all the surrounding
provinces. Some attention is also paid to education, and they have
a magnificent college. The buildings of this institution, together
with those of the mint, Governor's palace, and cathedral, present a
commanding view. The buildings generally are inferior in size,
and mostly constructed of stucco.
The prison at San Luis Potosi is on a more extensive scale than
that at Monclova, and includes within its walls a much larger fam
ily. On the morning of the 20th of November, after remaining in
the prison over night, we were all conducted to the gate, passing
by the place of execution, in one corner of the large walled square,
where the officers were fulfilling the ends of justice, by executing
IN MEXICO.
67
a lot. of condemned criminals. There was so little ceremony at
tending their operations, and such a carelessness about their man
ner, that we did not dream they were performing the work of death.
As our guard delayed to open the ponderous gate, however, and
we saw them toss two dead bodies into rough looking boxes, placed
on equally rough wagons with wooden wheels, we were apprised
of the nature of their employment, and, indeed, began to think we
might probably be the next victims. Their manner of inflicting
capital punishment is more refined than in the United States. In
the first place, they do not make a public spectacle of an execu
tion. Within the walls of the prison enclosure, the condemned
culprit is seated in a chair, when an iron collar is placed around
his neck, made to expand or contract, as may be necessary. In
the back part of this is inserted a sharp pointed spike, moved at
pleasure by the executioner by means of a screw, and on turning
which the spinal marrow is penetrated by the point, causing instant
death. This ingenious machine, for the perpetration of legalized
murder, is called the garotte.
As we beheld this scene of dissolution between body and soul,
we felt that the last ray was quivering upon the dial-plate of our
own destiny. To be forcibly driven into the presence of Santa
Anna into the very grasp of his insatiate soldiery, was enough
to make us think seriously of preparing our last will and testament.
But we had not yet suffered enough to glut their cruel propensi
ties, and marching us to the barracks, they gave us to understand
that we were to serve in the republican army of Mexico ! We all
joined in thanking them for this rr ark of proffered promotion, but
declined, stating that if they would spare our lives till the Ameri
can forces commenced knocking at their gates, and they had any
curiosity in seeing us fight, we might give them a specimen, by
exercising our organs of combativeness under other colors. It was
an insult that our sense of patriotism could not brook, and we felt
it more keenly than all the outrages we had endured.
Santa Anna did not make his appearance in person, but finding
our resolution to place at defiance such a demand, irrevocably
fixed, he sent his kitchen general (Requina) to inform us that we
were to be immediately marched off to Acapulco. What object
he could have had in view in sending us to that miserable place,
has never revealed itself to me. Acapulco is a port of some im
portance on the coast of the Pacific, nearly eight hundred miles
from San Luis Potosi, and owing to the malignity of the climate,
and the still more malignant character of the inhabitants, few who
go there ever return alive.
Through our new associates, who had been brought from Zaca-
tecas, and who were to accompany us to Acapulco, we learned
that Santa Anna had been informed by the clergy of the former
68 DONNAVAN'S ADVENTURES
place, that we had been captured as spies. In no other way could
we account for the apparent lenity by which our lives were pro
longed, than to attribute it to their desire that the catalogue of our
sufferings should be complete in this world, before being despatched
on a mission to eternity.
Accordingly, under new masters, commissioned by Santa Anna
to guard us, we commenced our journey to the Pacific, on the 20th
of November. Including the new accession from Zacatecas, our
own party was now swelled to nine in number, while our guard,
increasing in a greater ratio, consisted of forty-six, well-armed,
able-bodied, and mounted men. We could not but think of the
disappointment of poor Poco Llama and his rancheros, and although
treated wilh more humanity, we almost regretted the transfer ; for
we had abandoned all former hope of returning to our own country,
and instead of expecting to be sold into slavery, with a prospect of
being released at the termination of hostilities, we felt, as we plodded
on towards the setting sun, that
" Our hearts, like muffled drums, were beating
Funeral marches to the grave."
Thirty miles from San Luis Potosi we entered the dominions of
the almost unlimited estate originally owned and occupied by the
house of Jorol, of the Spanish nobility. This is represented to be
the largest and most magnificent estate in Mexico. At the com
mencement of the revolution, the amount of stock was reputed to
number 350,000 head, and the tenantry engaged in cultivating the
grounds to over 30,000 men. In extent of territory these posses
sions will equal about four of our ordinary counties, and the single
farm is larger than the State of Delaware. The unsettled policy
of the country has driven the proprietor from his possessions, and
the estate now bears evident marks of decay and dilapidation.
Another immense hacienda is Dolores, the original seat of Hidalgo,
the leader of the first revolutionary movement in Mexico. Near
the centre of this estate, comprising some 20,000 square miles, is
the town of Dolores, with a population of 7,000.
Four days travel brought us to Guanajuato, on the Sierre Santa,
the capital of the province of the same name, situated in the richest
mining region of all Mexico, and containing 40,000 inhabitants.
I have never seen a more quaint and singular city than Guanajuato.
The street by which we entered the place is broad and straight
enough for a Philadelphian, but the moment we left it and turned
off into the narrow, hilly avenues, we were in a perfect labyrinth.
They are so narrow and crooked that carriages can scarcely pass
each other in the most of them. Our guard here took the precau-
IN MEXICO. 69
tion to dismount, in order to convey us through the city in a hollow
square sort of procession. In these narrow streets there are no
side-walks, and but for the commanding appearance of our crowd,
upon which all eyes were turned, we should have been crushed
against the buildings by some lumbering diligence. Threading the
tortuous and crowded lanes, we frequently came out upon some
magnificent church, which if it could be made to stand apart from
the world of small buildings, tumbled in together as if about knee-
deep around it, would be regarded as almost a wonder of archi
tecture ; and which even now, with the imperfect view which can be
obtained, between unmannerly dwellings and ware-houses, charms
the beholderl ike the glimpses of a fairy scene. Hurried through the
city as we were, there was little opportunity to acquire much
knowledge of its character or extent ; but 1 could not help notic
ing the antique buildings, the unusually active and energetic pop
ulation, and the strange dresses that were perhaps in the height of
style about a century ago. Passing through the city to the sub
urbs, we stopped for the night in a convent building, not exactly
among the nuns, but with the padre of the place, whom we found
remarkably hospitable and inquisitive. The heavy rains which
commenced falling, detained us here till the middle of the follow
ing day, when we left for Valladolid.
CHAPTER IX,
Arrival at Valladolid Curiosity of ike Citizens A French Publisher His
History Another Sentence of Death Negotiation for our release " Bar
gain and Intrigue " Sold into Slavery Mexican Charac 'er Our Price
Dr. Barry A Mexican Printing Office Spanish Piinters El Republi-
cano Support and Character of Mexican Newspapers.
IN ten days we performed a journey of 310 miles, and arrived
in the city of Valladolid on the evening of December 1st. 1846.
The day had been the occasion of some religious festival, arid the
streets and public houses were so thronged that our guard deter
mined to confine us during the night in the city prison, that they
might, unembarrassed, participate in the concluding ceremonies,
which we understood were to consist of a fandango and mas
querade.
After a delegation had been despatched for the keeper of the
prison, and to make the necessary arrangements for our security,
many of the citizens crowded in the meson to get a sight at us.
Had our guard been gifted with a little of that Yankee tact which
70
turns everything to count in the way of a " shilling," they might
have made a handsome " speculation " by exhibiting us. The mar-
vellousness of the natives was excited to a greater extent than is
usually manifested by the boys of our own villages in the United
States, when the " show-men come to town." Indeed, we were
great lions, in our way, for few of the citizens of Valladolid had
ever seen a Yankee, and they opened their eyes, as if determined
this opportunity should not be unimproved. From among the
crowd an elderly looking man emerged, and advancing, accosted
us in unbroken English " Are you American citizens ? I had
thought that that announcement was a free passport the world
over." There was more meaning expressed in his countenance
than in his words, and although his bearing was rather scornful,
his English surprised us ; but as it was the first sentence we had
heard uttered in our language beyond our own immediate circle,
since we left Zacatecas, we did not attempt to evade his presence
or his interrogatories. We replied, that had our memory ever
been at all treacherous in regard to the place of our nativity, the
contrast we had experienced in treatment since passing beyond
its borders, was calculated forcibly to remind us that we had once
been citizens of the United States.
The old man seemed inclined to continue the conversation, and
soon revealed the most important facts connected with his individ
ual and somewhat eventful history. He stated that his fathers
name, which was all he had inherited, was Mons. Buffam that
he himself was a native of France, but had in early life emigrated
to England. In 1835, he left England for the United States, and
on landing at New York was so dissatisfied with its appearance,
and the intense coldness of the climate, that he immediately sailed
with a cargo of goods for San Bias, on the Pacific coast. Cruis
ing around to the small English colony of Balize, he changed his
destination to Acapulco, and anchoring in that harbor, at the time
of the difficulties between Mexico and Texas, he found it an easy
matter to purchase from the Mexican authorities a permit to im
port goods free of duty. On returning with his second cargo, he
learned at the custom house that his permit was worthless, as the
former authorities had been deposed, after the battle of San
Jacinto, and the new government was riot responsible for the pri
vate contracts of the old custom house officers. He sold out his
cargo at a sacrifice, and abandoning the mercantile business in
1839, he had settled down in the city of Valladolid, where he
was engaged as one of the publishers of " El Republicano " news
paper.
In listening to him we manifested a degree of interest always
gratifying to the narrator of events in which he is the masterspirit ;
and when, in turn, we came to tell him that we had for several
IN MEXICO. 71
years been connected with the newspaper press of the United
States, and that two of us were practical printers by profession, he
evinced symptoms of confusion and surprise for which we were
at a loss to account. Our interview was abruptly closed, however,
by the command of the guard, who gave us to understand that they
awaited our company to prison.
During the night arid on the day following, our guard indulged
freely in pulque, and had become so " gloriously drunk " as to
apparently lose all their distinguished consideration of us. To
wards evening, however, our new acquaintance of " El Republi-
cano," accompanied by his associate, Senor Gomez Peyrelades, a
native Spaniard, and editor of the paper, visited and informed us,
that the commander of our guard (Gen. Requina.) too beastly
drunk to navigate himself, had ordered his men to conduct us
from the prison one at a time, and deliberately shoot us down in
the public plaza. They then consulted us in regard to our willing
ness to serve them in the capacity of compositors, should they in
tercede and procure our release as prisoners. We did not long
hesitate in choosing between being shot, going to Acapulco, or
taking " situations " in a printing office. In clinging to the latter
" horn of the dilemma," we might possibly avail ourselves of an
opportunity to escape, at least after the close of the war.
After an absence of about an hour, during which time they held
an interview with Gen. Requina, they returned and stated they
had "come to terms " that they had paid $1,900 in considera
tion of securing our services, for an indefinite period, and that if
disposed to ratify the negotiation, we might signify our intentions
by being conducted to the printing office.
Here was a scene for philosophical reflection. We had often
accused our brother editors of being " bought and sold." In the
heat of party warfare we had been somewhat lavish in the use of
such reproachful and disgusting epithets as " British Whigs " and
" Bank-bought federalists." We had stigmatized our own coun
trymen as being sold into the servile slavery of party ; and had
reprobated the idea of " white slavery " in the most earnest man
ner. But this was only the enthusiastic romancing incident to
youth, led away by the tyranny of party discipline, in the excite
ment of a heated political contest. We had now come to experi
ence some of the realities of a purchased editor, and humiliating
as was the " bargain and intrigue" to our native sense of justice,
-we found ourselves transferred into unlimited bondage.
It was useless that we should demand the authority by which
such an outrage upon our own feelings, as well as all rules of civ
ilization, was perpetrated. Power is the only authority recognized
in Mexico, and if, as I have before remarked, men will sell their
own souls, they will hardly hesitate to sell the bodies of their
enemies.
72
The character of the great mass of that people may be assimi
lated to that of a spaniel dog. Give them uncontrolled sway and
they are cruel and inhuman but " the more you whip them the
better they will like you " and when subdued, they are far more
servile and humble than the negro slaves of our Southern states.
Under all the circumstances, we had some reason to congratu
late ourselves upon this change of masters. We had escaped from
a second sentence to be shot down as common food for the more
common buzzards, while we had substantial evidence of the esteem
in which we were held by our new owners, from the round sum
they had paid for us. It is quite natural, that, when a price is set
upon a man's head, he is ambitious to bring as much as possible :
and we consoled ourselves by a knowledge that we had sold for a
greater amount than we could possibly have brought in our own
country, even with a few dips in Etheopian die.
[And here, although somewhat out of place, the author must be
permitted to correct an erroneous statement which has appeared in
the New York " Spirit of the Times," and the New Orleans
" Delta," since his return to the United States. He has been
"undervalued" by an article which appeared in those papers,
and copied into various other respectable prints, asserting that he
had been sold for the contemptible sum of $350 ! The mistake
is no doubt an innocent one, yet it is calculated to detract from the
value of a printer and for the credit of the craft, it should be
understood that he not only sold for $950, but that his associate
brought the same price.]
Our mutual friend, Dr. Barry, being now left in confinement
with the Zacatecan prisoners, suggested that he should consider it
an especial favor if a similar disposition could be made of his per
son to an apothecary, if " hereabouts he dwelt." In fact he pos
sessed every requisite qualification for that place, according to the
idea of the poet, for
" Sharp misery had worn him to the bones ; "
and there is but little doubt but that Gen. Requina would have
gladly dispensed with all the prisoners on similar conditions, but
it seemed we had supplied the demand. In a few days, after be
coming sober, the entire company departed for Acapulco with the
other prisoners, leaving Mr. Cunningham and myself to enter upon
our life-apprenticeship in a Mexican printing office.
The office, which occupied the third story of a large stone build
ing, and is entered through a pylon, a court, and then a massive
gate, was a perfect museum of curiosties to an American printer.
The room was large and commodious, but filthy almost beyond
description. In printing, as well as other arts, mechanics, and
IN MEXICO. . 73
agriculture, the Mexican people are at least two centuries behind
the age. Their type and presses, like their muskets, are generally
the worn out and cast-off materials from Spain. The old Ram-
age presses were so venerable they could scarcely stand alone,and
at each successive revolution of the rounce their shrieks would grate
upon the ear, as if exercise was as painful to them as to the Span
ish printers who were torturing their poor old joints. There were
two of these machines, each having a stone bed, and a ponderous
weight, like a Dutch cheese press. The face of the type was
barely visible, and it was with some difficulty one letter could be
distinguished from another, while the body was worn as round as
a rusty nail. Such an improvement as a roller had never been
dreamed of, and the balls, long since banished from our western
borders, there retain supremacy. An imposing stone has never
invaded the original prerogative of the press bed, and an iron
chase would be regarded as a retrograde movement in "the
art preservative of all arts." The chases, sticks, and galleys, were
all composed of wood, though being made of mahogany, they
serve nearly as well as metal. The cases, instead of being mounted
on stands, are spread out on the floor, as the Spaniard, being too
lazy to take a perpendicular position, prefers to sit down, to set
up type ; and on a filthy mat, thrown out upon the floor, he
sprawls himself at his occupation, where he will sometimes succeed
in setting three thousand ems per day. In making up a news
paper form, the annuncios, or advertisements, are inserted promis
cuously with the reading matter, without any such encumbrances
as brass rule.
The Mexicans are by no means a literary people, and they have
few newspapers. " El Republicano " is a super-royal sheet, is
sued daily, resembling in mechanical appearance, Ann Royal's
" Huntress," more than any other sheet to which I can compare
it. It is sustained by contributions from individuals and the gov
ernment, and contains very little intelligence besides official an
nouncements. Occasionally a horrible murder will adorn its col
umns ; and it is a prevailing epidemic among the young people of
the " upper ten," to give publicity to their amorous verses, gener
ally stupid and j>rosy, but sometimes possessing the fire of poetry.
74 DONNAVAN'S ADVENTURES
CHAPTER X.
City of Valladolid Climate and Productions Volcano of Jorullo New
Theory of the Gulf Stream Christmas Buildings in the City Customs
of the inhabitants Matrimonial Intrigues Music Governor of Mechoacan,
and his Plan of Warfare Ignorance of a Mexican Editor in regard to the
United States Corwin's Speech Neivs of the Battle of Buena Vista
Great Rejoicing Sentiments of the Masses.
L'H.v, -jo? to I 3:10 </ifjr*>rBif> 9rrir? r!.5<> *w l'<hn6 '.^Mfviv v^fid
VALLADOLID, the capital of the province of Mechoacan, is situ
ated on the western declivity of the Cordillera of Auhuac. It
contains a population of 27,000, and is noted as being the scene
of the first revolutionary movement in 1810, and the birth place
of Iturbide, the first and only emperor, after the conquest by Cor-
tez. Il is about eleven hundred miles south from Camargo, one
hundred and seventy west from the city of Mexico, and nearly
two hundred east from Zacatula, the nearest port on the Pacific
coast, at the mouth of the Balsas river. The valley of Auhuac is
the Italy of America, where spring reigns unbroken. The mean
temperature of the climate is 70 degrees, Fahrenheit, never vary
ing more than ten degrees. The productions of this immense
valley consist of sugar, cotton, rice, cocoa, indigo, cochineal, oran
ges, lemons, pine-apples, grapes, palms, plantains, bananas, yams,
figs, tamarinds, pomegranates, mangostans, almonds, and every va
riety of tropical fruits.
Among the majestic, in the natural way, Mechoacan his within
her territorial limits, the stupendous volcano of Jorullo, of nearly
one hundred years, and 16, 500 feet standing. In the fall of 1759,
from a subterranean eruption, which covered with a sea of lava
the broad plains of Malpais, rose the towering peak of Jorullo,
which, although constantly burning, seldom emits lava. At an el
evation of 14, 500 feet above the base, it is covered with perpetual
snow. The only eruption, within the memory of the inhabitants,
occurred about twenty-eight years ago, when it is said that the
streets of Valladolid were covered with cinders and ashes to the
depth of twenty inches.
Recently a new and very plausible theory has been suggested,
accounting not only for the high temperature of the waters of the
Gulf of Mexico, but for the existence of the Gulf stream itself.
It is surmised that a subterranean current, connecting the waters
of the Pacific with those of the Gulf, passes through a cavity or
excavation, caused by the eruptions of the five volcanoes Colima,
Jorullo, Popocatapetl, Orizaba, and Tuxtla, which are situated in
nearly a direct line between the Pacific and the Gulf. Indeed,
there is much evidence in support of this theory, the waters of the
IN MEXICO. 75
Pacific being at a considerable elevation above those of the Gulf,
would afford sufficient fall, and the great heat so increases their
impetus, as to compel the current to the shores of Asia. Besides,
I learned that in an attempt to sink an artesian well a few years
since at Patzcuro. near Jorullo, and on a parallel line with the
volcanoes, the blue waters, resembling those of the Pacific,
gushed up, already heated to a sufficient temperature to boil an
egg-
When Christmas arrived, the whole city was in commotion.
All shops and business operations were closed for one week, to
give full swing to religious ceremonies. Left to take care of our
own souls, we could only amuse ourselves by looking out from our
prison house upon the Catholic processions in their strange cavort-
ings and unaccountable gyrations through the streets ; and watch
the various intrigues and stolen glances among the belles and
beaux.
The warmth and geniality of the climate renders the use of
glass in the windows entirely unnecessary, and to keep out intrud
ers the windows are grated with iron bars, about an inch in diam
eter, with shutters on the inside, to be closed when occasion may
require it. These windows are very large, and open from the
floor to the ceiling, and being the most pleasant part of the house
during the heat of the day, are almost always occupied by the
ladies of the family. As the great majority of the houses are
only one story high, and built close upon the streets, this custom of
sitting in the windows affords fine opportunities for lovers to steal
an occasional interview. The ladies being thus constantly exposed
to the gaze of the public, become accustomed to it, and do
not deem it rudeness for entire strangers to stare at them, or even
stop and ask them questions. But it was not long before we
learned to distinguish when a favorite came along, as the lady
would then manage to get her lips through the interstices, to greet
him with a hearty kiss. And they are not to be blamed for such
advances, by any means ; for paternal tyranny is carried to excess
in most of the cities of Mexico a gentleman being permitted
to visit a lady but three or four times (and then only in the pres
ence of her mother, aunt, or duenna^) before declaring his inten
tions, if his proposals are acceptable, the preliminaries of the
marriage are forthwith arranged, without consulting the feelings
of the one most interested. This being the case, it is not to be
wondered at that matrimonial infidelity and intrigue are so com
mon among all classes, and that husbands and fathers should re
sort to bolts and bars (o secure that virtue for their wives and
daughters which should have been instilled into their minds from
infancy.
But notwithstanding all the vigilance of fathers and guardians,
76 DONNA VAN'S ADVENTURES.
" love laughs at locksmiths," and lovers can invent a thousand
ways to hold converse with each other ; so that elopements are as
common there as births in the " log cabin " of a Hoosier.
Among all classes, parents usually sell their daughters when they
become marriageable, for $100 sometimes for less, and often
for a " mess of pottage."
We were at times the unperceived witnesses to matrimonial in
trigues, and although removed beyond the voices of the lovers,
could not fail to anticipate their emotions from their earnest ges
tures ; which, if we interpreted aright, always signified that they
would take great pleasure in dying for each other. In the even
ings we could sit upon the windows, and listen to the "poor
man's opera," which, unlike the animated instruments by which
he is regaled in our own country, consists of a band of musicians,
who play on the plaza every night, from eight till ten o'clock, for
the benefit of all who are susceptible of being " moved by the
concord of sweet sounds."
During the first two months of our confinement, we were em
ployed in the composition of a " Reprint of the Ordinances of
the city of Valladolid," which entitled us to an occasional visit
from the Governor of the province, (Melchor Ocampo,) who su
perintended the publication. He is among, if not at the very
head of, the great men of Mexico, and was a candidate for presi
dent at the last election. Ocampo is about thirty-eight years of
age, rather below the middling size, but well built. His fine olive
complexion looks darker than it really is, from the jetty blackness
of his hair, which hangs in ringlets about his face, and from his
extensive mustachios and sparkling black eyes. In his manners
he is perfectly easy and gentlemanlike, and though the first im
pressions would be, from his extreme politeness, and continual
imiles, that he was a good natured and silly fop, yet one could
see from his keen, inquisitive glances, which involuntarily escaped
him, that he concealed under an almost childish lightness of man
ner, a close and accurate study of mankind. He speaks fluently
five languages; and having been an accurate observer of human
nature, he had the power to make his conversation extremely in
structive, though he seldom took the pains to gratify us by doing
so. His political talents are of the first order, and his mental
resources great. He seems to have every confidence in his own
power, but has not that personal firmness and hardihood of pur
pose to lead in a revolutionary movement. Nor can he be called
cowardly, for he has on many occasions resolutely placed himself
in situations he knew to be dangerous ; yet when danger arrives,
he unfortunately loses his coolness and presence of mind, arid
imbibes that impetuosity of Spanish nature so fatal to all prudence.
He openly denounces Santa Anna as a tyrant and usurper, but is
IN MEXICO.
77
the warm friend of Anaya, at that time the Substitute President.
He is a most strenuous advocate of the war, and his plan of con
ducting it seems to show his sagacity and his perfect appreciation
of the character of the Mexican soldiery. He would have the
people join the guerillas, abandon the towns and cities, and carry
their property oft' to the mountains. We heard him assert, with
decided emphasis and decision, jhat "should Mexico consent to
make peace with the Yankees, he would fight the inhabitants of
the other provinces as soon as a foreign foe." Such is his aver
sion to a treaty that would " tarnish their integrity or infringe
upon their nationality, that before he would sanction it even
were his own Mechoacan to do it he would rather expatriate
himself than yield to it and live in a dishonored country." But
with all his patriotism, he suffers his personal feelings and individ
ual enmities to get the better of him ; and I believe he would
sooner subject his country to the Turks than have Santa Anna
get the credit of saving her for ' his own Mechoacan " did not
contribute a soldier to the army, nor did the contributions in funds
by the clergy of Valladolid, at all correspond with the demands
and expectations of the government. While other bishoprics
were highly commended for their liberality, his was strongly con
demned as niggardly in its appropriations, and even threatened
with official and popular displeasure.
Creditable as is the intellectual character of Melchor Ocampo to
himself and state, it would seem that he had made a monopoly, at
least of geographical knowledge. It is true, our opportunities for
judging of the intelligence and capacities of the people were lim
ited ; but the interrogatories of Senor Gomez Peyrelades, the
editor of " El Republicano," who, from his position, ought to
know something of the world beyond the limits of the Chinese
shoe, in which his faculties seemed to be cooped up, and which
may be regarded as an index to the acquirements of the educated
portion of the population, we could arrive at no very favorable
estimate of their sprightliness. Among other equally silly ques
tions, he asked us in a most grave and apparently candid man
ner through his associate, " If all the United Slates embraced as
much territory as the province of Mechoacan, and if the popula
tion exceeded three millions." He remarked that he had " recently
had a dispute with the bishop, who contended that the United
States was larger, both in extent of territory and population, than
the whole of the republic of Mexico, but he had imputed such an
extravagant idea to the priest's ignorance." The fellow's sym
pathy for the bishop's ignorance vastly exceeded his own knowl
edge ; and when we assured him that our country was much
more than double as large as all the Mexican provinces, that it
contained a population of twenty millions, and could at any time
7*
78 DONNAVAN'S ADVENTURES
send out an army of three million men, he began to think we wished
to intimidate him by an exaggerated statement. He was event
ually induced to " swallow the truth," however, our assertions
being supported by the evidence of his partner, Mons. Buffam,
who had heard something of the power and resources of the Uni
ted States, in England, during the war of 1812, and had himself
touched at New York, at a later period.
But the most difficult matter of comprehension to the editor
was, how " whig generals " should be placed at the head of the
American army, while the administration was opposed to the
whigs and when Corwin's speech against the war was received
through " El Monitor," from the city of Mexico, we were asked
if Senor Corwin would not immediately raise a company of volun
teers, issue a pronunciamento and attack the president ! The
editor was delighted with the speech, and republished it, by in
serting some two columns daily. He esteemed Senor Corwin as
far superior to Senor Polk, in political sagacity and eloquence of
language. But poor fellow, he knows but little of the enlightened
state of parties in this country, where officials can abuse each
other with impunity, and where greater revolutions have been con
summated by the pen than were ever accomplished by the sword.
On the 12th of March, intelligence of the battle of Buena Vis
ta was received at the office of " El Republicano." The official
despatches of Santa Anna, representing the total defeat of the
American forces, were hailed by manifestations of unbounded
joy, by the people, though the governor did not participate in the
demonstrations of respect paid to Santa Anna, by a few of the
more fanatical adherents of the war party. At night, rockets
were sent heavenward, till the very stars had to " hide their dimin
ished heads," and the bells of more than forty churches pealed
the notes of the triumph of the cross. We began to think that
father Miller was not so far wrong after all, in his elucidation of
Daniel's Vision, for if a Mexican army could defeat Gen. Taylor
and his volunteers with half a chance, there was evidently some
thing wrong in the elements. For some days we were compelled
to credit the reports, till the arrival of a bundle of New Orleans
papers, which they always graciously permitted us to peruse,
brought a reliable statement ; and caused a very perceptible elon
gation in the swarthy visages of the more intelligent Mexicans,
vho found they had shouted long "before they were out of the
woods," but they suffered the great mass to enjoy the bliss of ig
norance, and encouraged the conclusion that they were invincible.
It should not be inferred from this premature manifestation of
joy at the supposed success of their arms, that the people of the
province of Mechoacan are decidedly hostile to the United States.
The truth is, they know nothing of our people, country, 01 insti-
IN MEXICO. 79
tutions ; and the ignorant dupes of a few blind leaders the
victims of passion and impulse, they prefer to rejoice on any occa
sion. In the last presidential canvass their legislature voted unan
imously for Herrara, the peace candidate.
CHAPTER XI.
Easter, and its Amusements Visit to the Cathedral Description of the Edifice
Our Employment The Spanish Alphabet Change in Discipline Im
provement in Diet Masticating Monkeys The Ladies Their Hospitality
and Accomplishments Love and its Doings.
EASTER came. Again all the markets, shops, and stores were
closed : though the holidays, (and Easter is the greatest of them
all,) instead of being a relief to us, were oppressive. Imme
diately after morning mass, there was a general run, ride, and
drive out of the city to a neighboring palmetto and cocoa, where
tents were erected, plays established, and joy and pleasure reigned
supreme. This continued for eight days, and at the end of the
amusements, all went to the church-yard, where every grave bears
its name and particular sign. Here wine, pulque, bread and
steak, and whatsoever else will gratify the stomach, is brought,
and they eat and drink over the graves drink complimentary
toasts to the dead, and amuse themselves rurally and morally. In
this manner, they recompense themselves for the long forty days'
fast, in which their religion prevents them from eating meat, eggs,
butter, milk, and cheese, and during which period we lost a good
deal more flesh than Shylock demanded of the Merchant of
Venice.
More out of " familiar impertinence," than any other motive,
we solicited the privilege of going to church on Easter Sunday.
Our request was promptly and unexpectedly granted, and we went
more to gratify our curiosity, than from any hope of being seriously
benefited. Our masters employing an escort of twelve men, we
were for the first time since our confinement, permitted to enter
the streets of the city. There are over forty churches in Valla-
dolid, but we had signified our desire to see the cathedral. Pass
ing by the church of San Francisco, whose triple portals might
be considered fine specimens of the florid Gothic of the fifteenth
century, and whose wooden doors, elaborately and beautifully
carved, are certainly well worthy the attention of the curious; we
80 DONNAVAN'S ADVENTURES
hastened on to see the finest building in the city ; a church that,
in size, purity of style, and excellent workmanship, far surpasses
the cathedral in Cincinnati, and would vie with Trinity church in
New York. Indeed, it is regarded as among the finest Gothic
edifices in the world, and certainly its effect is fine beyond de
scription. In twenty-five years the building was commenced and
completed, and was dedicated at the beginning of the 19th century.
Behig built before the revolution, when the country enjoyed repose,
the same plan was pursued from beginning to end, and there was a
simplicity attained a certain kind of judicious finish and orna
ment, that gives to this mass of " stone and mortar " such an air
of completeness of being done that, as we looked upon the
work, we involuntarily uttered, "Amen." The central tower is
250 feet in height, and is composed wholly of open arches and
tracery, crowned by an octangular band of flower-de-luce. It is
certainly the most graceful and beautiful tower I ever beheld.
But the interior is, if possible, more imposing than the exterior.
The extreme length is 440 feet, and the height 100. The finest
specimens of Spanish oil paintings adorn the walls, while the
altar is of beautiful marble, and the railing, balustrades, and images
are of pure gold. I do not know how to describe the elegant, quiet
simplicity of the interior, that, in spite of prejudices, charmed me
more and more, till I forcibly tore myself away from gazing.
The light is peculiarly strong, owing to the immense size of the
clerestory windows, and yet the rich coloring of the stained glass
softens it down to the most agreeable mellowness.
While we stared at the church, we wen- stared at in turn by
the congregation, and fearing the priest would become jealous of
the attention the comparative lightness of our complexions elicited,
as soon as the last thundering notes of the organ concluded the
vespers, we returned, passing through the public plaza, and taking
a view of the Governor's palace.
We were fast growing in the favor and esteem of our new
masters. True to the policy we adopted on the first night of our
captivity, we omitted no opportunity to flatter their vanity, and
had not only succeeded in inducing the belief that our respect for
them was unbounded, but that we had become so allied to their
customs, as to have little desire to return home. These declara
tions were received in better faith than they were made, so far as
the author is concerned, yet they were not relied on with the most
implicit confidence. The trifling annoyances we had at first
encountered in becoming familiar with the case, the alphabet, and
the accented letters, were now avoided, and we could compose in
Spanish with almost as much facility as in English type. Indeed,
the alphabets of the two languages are almost identical the
former dispensing with our w, and adopting three double letters
IN MEXICO. 81
ch, II, andrr increasing the number of characters to twenty-
eight. At our suggestion, the cases had been placed upon stands,
the type completely cleansed, and we had introduced rollers,
which were as great an innovation upon balls, as our steamboats
were upon " broadhorns " we had renovated u El Republicano,"
so that even its most familiar acquaintances could scarcely recog
nize it. In fact, we had produced a revolution in the appearance
of things generally, quite creditable to our ingenuity. And our
enterprise redounded greatly to our advantage. These little acts
of kindness, which cost nothing, resulted in affecting a complete
change in our prison discipline. We were fitted out in new linen
gear each adopting the French blouse,in imitation of the " bet
ter classes." The hours of labor were curtailed from twelve to
eight per day, and instead of bringing our tortillas, chili, and bean
soup to our prison room, the entrance to which was always
secured, and feeding us like caged animals, we were permitted to
take our meals with the families, on the second floor of the com
modious building. These were courtesies that our most sanguine
anticipations had not reached ; and we had been so long accus
tomed to dining like Turks, that we felt really awkward and
embarrassed in resuming such weapons as a knife and fork at the
table ! But the excellence of the diet surprised us more than all.
Aside from the immoderate use of pepper and garlic, which com
pletely usurps the original flavor of every dish it was such as
to excite the admiration of an epicure. Added to the usual lux
uries to be found on the tables of hotels in the United States, we
here found every variety of tropical fruits oranges, figs, bana
nas, yams, etc., besides monkeys and parrots. At first, we con
fess we felt some compunctions of conscience in devouring such a
delicacy as the carcass of a dead monkey alarmed at such an
advance towards cannibalism. But the force of example soon
reconciled our misgivings, and the very idea, at first revolting,
became a luxury. Monkey stock is not to say plenty in the prov
ince of Mechoacan ; yet they abound in Yucatan, and being
taken when very young, they are fattened like pigs, and sold in
the markets. They are an excellent dish, possessing a flavor far
superior to that of our squirrel, and highly prized by the Mexi
cans. The parrot, when fat and served in the same manner,
could not be distinguished from the American pheasant. Choco
late is a favorite beverage, and is manufactured, though not to
any great extent, in Valladolid.
But the ladies it would be ungallant to leave them unnoticed.
In our new relation, we were ushered into the society of no less
than six the wife and daughter of Mons. Buffam, arid the wife
and three daughters of Senor Gomez Peyrelades the latter, all
of pure Castilian blood. In age the young ladies varied from 14
82 DONNAVAN'S ADVENTURES
up to 26, only one of whom could be called really handsome.
But they soon became the most familiar and inquisitive creatures
I had ever seen in any country. I would recommend all timid
bachelors to go to Mexico at once. They spoke the Spanish and
French languages fluently, and had a slight smattering of English.
It was not long before they commenced paying us some very hand
some compliments, and apprised us of the important fact that they
having understood we were both entirely white had been
in ecstacies ever since our arrival, to have us introduced into the
family, and that they had at last succeeded in accomplishing their
wishes. To us there was something rather mysterious connected
with all these new tokens of hospitality, but we " bore our blush
ing honors meekly." We had fallen upon strange times, and the
dark shadows which had hung gloomily over our destiny, were fast
receding before a brighter future.
For who is impervious to the dark eyes and soft smiles of wo
man ? Our names and awkward manners afforded them curiosity
and amusement for the Spanish ladies are excessively polite, in
their own way. My name commencing with Don, I was regarded
as a descendant from the Spanish nobility but it was difficult for
me to reconcile such a conclusion under existing circumstances.
For aside from my humble position as a slave, I was mortified by
being frequently reminded of the fact that I was not so buena as
Senor Cunningham. This partiality, however just, I attributed in
some measure to having imprudently revealed my connubial respon
sibility in the United States. My friend Cunningham had yet no
such desirable encumbrances, though his prospects were becoming
flattering. The large black eye, the dark expressive glance, the
soft blood-tinged, olive glowing complexion of Policarpa Peyrelades,
the belle of the establishment, made him unwillingly confess the
majesty of Spanish beauty. And though he readily acknowledged
that the soft, blue eyes, and delicate loveliness of his own country
women, could awaken more tender feelings of interest, he would
not deny or dispute the commanding superiority of this dark-
eyed and finely formed damsel. And she was sensible, too. She
had even learned, what precocious children in our own " best cir
cles " often do, that her father was a fool. Without discussing
the justness of her conclusion, we will present some evidence of her
accomplishments. Cervantes was her Shakspeare, most of whose
productions she had committed to memory. Besides singing " di
vinely," and playing on the guitar and piano, she was a poetess !
Her effusions frequently graced the columns of " El Republicano,"
and some of which, in our uninitiated judgment, possessed decided
merit. The passion of love inspires a passion for poetry ; and be
ing beyond the influence of either, I will be pardoned for intro
ducing a specimen of her production. The lines were addressed
IN MEXICO. 83
to my friend Cunningham, after he had so far advanced as to
assure her that she was his.
FIRST LOVE.
TRANSLATED FROM EL REPUBLICANO.
" Guard well within thy memory the love of early days,
Nor seek in winter's snowy breast affection's flame to raise ;
For the loves which fill the guileless heart, while from suspicion free,
Are dearer far than after ones, how true soe'er they be.
"The cherished loves of life's young morn, when every thought glows warm,
And fills the clouds with sapphire towers and many a fairy form ;
Oh, lose them not by cold neglect, or hope not to regain,
The plant of love once chilled with frost will never spring again.
"The dream of passion's spring-time hour the full heart's overflow,
Chilled by the world's cold frown are hushed, and quenched their genial glow,
And life's dull, dread realities, in all their bitter truth,
Impart to us the lesson learned ' We have no second youth.'
"Go wander through the labyrinths of fashion's giddy throng,
And view gay pleasure's masquerade, or list her syren song;
Taste every cup of bliss, and roam where fancy's voice may call,
Yet shall the thought of 'love's young dream ' be dearer than them all.
"Cherish thy first young love, then, as a principle a part
Of that pure bliss which heaven itself enshrines within the heart ;
It is the clear untainted fount of undefined desire,
The substance and the essence pure of the Promethean fire."
CHAPTER XII.
News q/* the Investment of Tcra Cruz Battle of Cerro Gordo Character of
Cunningham Influence of Love Unfavorable Change in Treatment
Escape from Valladolid Passing the Gates Departure for Queretaro
Tomatoes A Rancho Hospitality of the Women Baking Tortillas
Assumption of anew Character Rio Grande de Santiago Banyan Trees
Mountain Scenery Jin American Physician His Character and Kindness
Education of Lizards City of Queretaro A Mexican Diligence Ar
rival at the City of Mexico.
INTELLIGENCE communicating the defeat of the Mexican forces
at Cerro Gordo, following the receipt of the official statement which
announced the investment of Vera Cruz, by the army under Gen.
Scott, did not fail to produce sensations of alarm among the ranks
of the war party at Valladolid, and it was even conceded by the
84 DONNAVAN'S ADVENTURES
editor of " El Republicano " that the capital was speedily destined
to fall into the hands of the invading army. Although our situa
tion had become comparatively agreeable, save the close confine
ment to which we were subjected, we could not anticipate the
consequences that might ensue to us, either in the event of a sub
jugation of the country, or a cessation of hostilities. Isolated and
remote as we were from the capital, our condition could not be
made known there. During the period of seven months we had
been prisoners within the power and at the mercy of the enemy,
we .had never been permitted to communicate a syllable to our
friends. We did not ask to transmit our confidential thoughts, but
merely to apprise our friends of our fate and confinement. This
privilege, however, they would grant us under no considerations.
Nor were we allowed to see or communicate with our own coun
trymen, several of whom we had learned were residing in the city ;
but who, had they known and been disposed to reveal our situa
tion, would have been detected, as no communication can leave
the city without first having passed through the hands of an in
spector, clothed with authority to suppress whatever his judgment
may dictate.
It is certainly mortifying enough to have one's genius eternally
cramped within the narrow limits of our best printing offices in the
United States, but in Mexico he will find its expansions most
rigidly prescribed. After four months' labor, without any com
pensation but the bare supply of l( food and raiment," we had
grown not only weary of our situation, irksome and monotonous
as was the routine of our duties, but daily experienced an increas
ing desire to return to our own country. Added to all this, a
partiality for my friend Cunningham, which could not be concealed,
had in a measure alienated him from me. He was one of those
frank, ardent, high-minded companions, to whom a soul might be
entrusted ; and his ready fund of wit and sentiment, as occasion
required, had served to beguile many a we^ary hour, in the long
night of our mutual perils. From the nature of our position, we
had formed a kind of alliance, offensive and defensive ; and amid
the hum of the foreign language, for a time incomprehensible, had
indulged in the sweet sounds of our mother tongue. Fellow-
sufferers, engaged in kindred pursuits, linked in the same uncer
tain destiny, we had shared each other's joys and sorrows, and
studied each other's domestic habits, somewhat after the amiable
manner of the Siamese twins. But the man was now " in love,"
and his character had undergone a total change. Mankind are
too apt to conclude that others can feel the same interest in their
idividual affairs, as they do themselves especially is it so with
lovers, who suppose the world is as completely convulsed as their
own overflowing hearts ; and who, when they fairly surrender, the
IN MEXICO. . 85
victims of that passion, are about as fit far society as a Mexican is
for the enjoyment of enlightened liberty/ They ar^ u company "
for no one but themselves, creating as-' they do, a/kind of world ^
within themselves. I could not censure or reprove my friend, for J?
I had been a victim to the same influence nor did [wonder that S
the citadel of his heart was no more successful in resisting an
attack from the fortress of the fair Policarpa, than were her coun
trymen from the well poised charges of the " army of occupation."
Yet I was the sufferer. While he was cared for and caressed, I
became neglected. Mine was a most unenviable lot shut up
in prison, and shut out from the last claim I had upon human
sympathy I stood "solitary and alone, amid the jeers of an in
constant world." While at night I was securely locked in the
narrow roo y n in the garret, which we had jointly occupied, to sleep
upon a rude bed made of strips of cowhide interlaced, he was con
ducted to better apartments, to sleep with I know not whom, for
travelling through this world " makes strange bed-fellows," and in
Mexico I have known " broad hints " to be given even by fathers.
Under such an unfavorable combination of circumstances, it is
not to be wondered at, that if from no higher motives than to
avoid the constant evidences of the inferiority of mj position, I
should eagerly embrace the first opportunity to escape. On the
night of the 3d of May (1847,) from some cause, which will
probably never be satisfactorily explained even to myself, I awoke
about the hour of midnight, and found the door of my room un
locked and open. This room, which had no window, and but the
one door, communicated with the printing office, where, after
drawing on my new Spanish habiliments, I procured the small
cords from several bundles of printing paper, and tying them
together, carefully secured one end near a window in the hall of
the office, and taking the other, through that aperture, I let myself
quietly down into the street. It was the first time I had ever
found myself dangling in the air at the end of a rope, and I trust
may be the last though I confess it was " pulling hemp " to
some purpose. It was an undignified, unenviable, and indelicate
position, and describing it I must have the licence of undignified
terms. The truth is, what little of dignity I ever possessed was
pretty well compromised while in a state of menial servitude.
Free in the city, I yet had to pass the gates, which I managed
without difficulty, through the knowledge I had acquired of the
Spanish language. During our confinement, I had carelessly made
enquiry about the roads to the city of Mexico, Queretaro, and
various other places. Of the gate keeper 1 enquired the road to
the city of Mexico, but instead of following it, to avoid pursuit, I
took the road to Queretaro, and with a peculiar mingling of hope
and fear, bid adieu to the city of Valladolid. I did not experi-
8
86 DONNAVAN'S ADVENTURES
%
ence the confusion wrtich characterizes the conduct of a culprit,
for I felt conscious of n\y rights, if ever I should have the good
fortune to recover them ; and this stratagem may have prevented
my being overtaken and re-captured. Being an accomplished
pedestrian, with an extensive practice, I must have travelled some
twenty miles before daylight ; when leaving the road, I secured
myself for the day among the chaperal, where I had the company
of a family of lizards as numerous as the John Smiths. Whether
pursued or not, I neither learned nor cared, after escaping.
Taking up the line of march, early on the second night I came
in sight of the town of Charo, which I avoided by a kind of semi
circle zigzag manoeuvre through the mountain paths of the Cordil
leras. Here I met with the good fortune to encounter a tomato
patch, a vegetable of spontaneous growth, and on which I gratified
my appetite and subsisted for the first three days. On the morn
ing of the third day after my escape, arriving in the delightful val
ley of the Rio Grande de Santiago, I ventured to make a call at a
rancho. Here I found the miserable looking excuses for men
stretched out upon their floors in a state of profound somnolency.
Permitting them to enjoy their repose, the ladies most generously
and hospitably prepared an excellent breakfast, consisting of veni
son, fregoles, chili, chocolate, and tortillas. The latter is a kind
of corn cake, which is the only bread found among the inhabitants
of Mexico, out of the towns and cities. The process of making
them I had never before witnessed, and the Senoritas, although
they did not know me from Adam, seemed to take great pleasure
in initiating me into the mysteries of their manufacture. The
common Indian corn is, in the first place, put into an earthen vessel
containing lime-water, where it is soaked to remove the husk it
is afterwards crushed between two stones, shaped for the purpose,
into a thick paste, made into flat cakes and baked on a clay grid
dle. A very liberal sprinkling of pulverized chili (a small red pep
per from which cayenne is manufactured,) is usually introduced
to the dough, making it " go off like hot cakes" in reality.
The ladies were as inquisitive as the veriest Yankee from Ver
mont; but I had prepared a tale for them. Robberies being of com
mon and almost every day occurrence there, I represented myself
as an English merchant from Guanajuato, returning from Zacatula,
on the Pacific, and as having been attacked by banditti, who stripped
me of not only my money, but the mustang on which I had been
mounted, and came within a ' squiirel's jump," of taking my life,
in the bargain. Englishmen stand high in the estimation of both
the people and government, and their sympathies for me were un
bounded. I made an apology for being unable to remunerate them,
when they gave me to understand that it was an insult to Mexi
can character to offer such a thing, even were I loaded down with
jewels.
IN MEXICO. . 87
Leaving the rancho, as I proceeded down the valley of the San
tiago river, I passed through a large grove of banyan trees. This
tree has been regarded as one of the wonders of the world, and is
certainly among nature's most admirable productions. It is a
growth only of those climes where she has lavished her bounties in
the greatest profusion and variety. The main trunk throws forth
its branches in long, hanging, and at first, tender fibres, which on
reaching the earth root, and become in their turn parent trunks,
sending forth their own branches. A grove thus formed, presents
one of the most beautiful and luxuriant views that can be imagined.
The leaves are large, soft, and of a lively green ; the fruit is a
small fig, when ripe of a bright scarlet, affording sustenance to
monkeys, squirrels, peacocks, parrots, and birds of various kinds
which dwell among their branches, and were indulging in their
peculiar antics, as I passed.
Upon crossing the Santiago, and entering the province of Quer-
etaro, I again approached the mountains, the defiles of which, at
first open, soon became so contracted as scarcely to leave a pas
sage, while the hills on either side became wilder and more lofty.
On their surface was a low brushwood of oak and holly, scarcely
hiding the dark rocks that were piled loosely above one another,,
and ready to crush down at the slightest impulse. Within these
narrow ravines, mountain rivulets were collected in strong currents,
which rattled among masses of huge rock, and often swept, in*
broad flakes of foam, across the narrow road which wound through
the valleys.
In approaching the city of Queretaro, through the province of the
same name, I found the country more thickly populated than any
other portion of Mexico I had visited. After receiving such tokens
of regard at the first rancho at which I had visited, I did not hesi
tate to call at others, and on relating the same plausible story,
received similar demonstrations of kindness. Within two miles of
the city I was overtaken by a gentleman on horseback. He was
riding the noblest looking animal I had seen in the country, and
from his complexion I was at once convinced that he was not a
native, although he addressed me in Spanish. We had proceeded
but a short distance, till, arriving at his residence, he invited me in.
Fearing to enter the city of Queretaro, arid hailing this as the only
source through which to receive the necessary information by which
my course might, be regulated, I availed myself of his politeness.
Upon a mutual interchange of the ordinary inquiries, I found him
to be a native of Maryland, and a practising physician, who had;
amassed immense wealth by his profession during his residence in
Mexico, where he was living in princely style. I had found another
bright spot, an oasis, in the great desert of my perilous pilgrimage.
To him I revealed rny true character, and the history of my adven-
88 DONNAVAN'S ADVENTURES
tures. Being an American, a man of generous sympathies, and
more than ordinary sagacity, he readily proposed to assist me, with
out at all compromising his own safety. After my journey of 112
miles, I remained with the doctor, (Stevenson,) during the follow
ing day to refresh myself. When we had despatched an unpep-
pered dinner, and were enjoying our cigars under a broad spread
ing tamarind tree, his lizards came down to repel the attacks of the
mosquitos. It is astonishing what education will accomplish. The
doctor's kindness for animals has developed instincts and awakened
affections that would not discredit a race of intellectual beings.
When he returns from the city, his beautiful fan-tailed pigeons
come with their familiar greetings to his carriage and perch upon
his shoulders, and his lizards jump from the trees into his hands.
He related an incident which occurred several years since, while
lie resided near Vera Cruz, showing the remarkable instinct of
these reptiles. A huge lizard that had the misfortune to lose his
'tail by some accident, marched into his office with the dismembered
limb in his mouth, and approached him as if seeking relief! This
looks like rather a remarkable " snake story," but is nevertheless
.asserted by him as a fact, and he regards the circumstance as a
tribute to his surgical skill.
The succeeding morning found us driving to the city of Quere-
taro. Instructing me to retain the assumed character of an Eng-
'lish merchant, on our arrival at the city I was introduced as such,
though my ignorance of the niceties of trade and commerce, poorly
qualified me for sustaining the position. I played the somewhat
difficult part, however, without suspicion, so far as I know, and
through the influence of Dr. Stevenson, I was tendered a seat in a
diligence, which was to leave in a few days for the city of Mexico,
in company with a real English merchant. This arrangement per
fected, after furnishing me with means, and a note of introduction
to Mr. Black, the American consul, he left me enjoying high hopes
and spirits, and a heart overflowing with gratitude ; as it was then
regarded as certain that Gen. Scott and his army were " revelling
in the halls of the Montezumas."
During the evening we took a stroll through the city, which sur
passes in point of beauty, cleanliness, and laziness, all others in
Mexico. The buildings are handsome and commodious, and ex
hibit a refinement of taste in their construction seldom met with
;in that country ; while the streets are wide, well paved, with spa
cious sidewalks. Included within its wails are three large public
plazas, beautifully adorned with shrubbery and a rich variety of
flowers. The population is supposed to reach 50,000 ; and the
magnificence of its public buildings almost challenge competition.
Among its most splendid and extensive public works, is a stone
aqueduct, by which the city is supplied with water, and which is
IN MEXICO. ^ *55f
some ten or twelve miles in length ; and the great convent of Santa
Clara, said to occupy a circumference of twelve thousand feet.
On the morning of the 14th, we took our seats in a Mexican
diligence, which resembles more than anything else, a common
bedstead inclosed with green painted canvass, on wheels, with four
rnules hitched abreast; and passing through the unimportant
towns of San Juan, Huitoke, Tula, and Guatitlan, we arrived safely
in the city of Mexico on the 1 6th of May.
CHAPTER XIII.
City of Mexico Public Grounds Public Buildings The Mint Coining
Gold Hotels Theatres Newspaper Press of the City Literature
Society Manners and Customs Dress Suburbs Cemetery Population.
I WAS disappointed in my ideal picture of the city of Mexico.
Like many others, I had imagined it to be a counterpart of the
great Venice across the waters, only with the additional attraclions
of floating paradises, in the shape of flower gardens, instead of
gondolas, upon the bosom of its watery streets. But the city has
been cruelly modernized in this particular, and there is little of
that romance we read of, justly belonging to it now. It
occupies only part of the seat of the ancient Tenochtitlan the
city of the Montezumas and instead of being built on a cluster
of islands, is at least two miles east of the lake of Tezcuco. The
valley or table land on which it is located, is 7,500 feet above the
level of the sea, and about one hundred and fifty miles in circum
ference. This valley is surrounded by mountains, ranging in height
from three to nine thousand feet. In geniality of climate, and
fertility of soil, it is almost unequalled in the wide world. Portions
of it is covered with the most luxuriant herbage, and timber of
almost every size and species. The cypress here reaches enor
mous dimensions, sometimes measuring twenty feet in diameter.
The city has been represented as being the finest on the American
continent, and in some respects certainly is so. It occupies a vast
area the walls by which it is surrounded, enclosing a square
about five miles in extent either way. I have seen as handsome
buildings, and as beautiful trees, but, altogether, the gently undu
lating, yet nearly level plain, the uniformity in the height of the
buildings, the long straight streets, crossing at right angles ; and
above all, the magnificent public grounds, artificial lakes and canals,
I must say that, in these respects, it presents attractions far beyoncj
any of the cities of the United States. The architecture is of the
90 . DONNAVAN'S ADVENTURES
most fascinating style. The buildings generally, are constructed
of porphyritic and basaltic stone, from the neighboring mountains,
rather roughly hewn, and are from two to three stories in height,
with flat roofs and terraces. Some of the fronts are of porcelain,
laid off in large squares, in which are painted pictures representing
" Christ crucified," " the ascension," the " Virgin of Guadaloupe,"
&c. But as a general thing, the fronts are of smooth stone, painted
some ornamental color. The gates, balustrades, and railing, are
of iron beautifully bronzed while the fronts are adorned with
corridors and balconies constructed of the same material, and
richly ornamented with fruit and flower trees. The floors of the
houses are universally of tile or brick. The principal streets are
from two to three miles in length, somewhat roughly paved. They
are not constructed on the same plan of ours, with side walks and
gutters, but gradually descend from each side to the centre, where
there is a drain, covered by broad flag stones, which may be re
moved at pleasure. These gutters are drained by a large sewer,
some twelve miles in length, cut through the mountains, and
emptying into the river Tula ; which also serves to carry off the
water when the lakes overflow, during the rainy season, and which
prevents inundation the surface of the water in the lakes being
higher than the streets of the city. This outlet also affords a
waste-way for the canal of the lake of Chalco, which in part sup
plies the city with water. After the European style, each street
presents its particular class of shops the jewellers are confined
to one street, the dry-goods men to another, grocers to still another,
&c., while fruits and flowers of every variety and hue, are to be
found in nearly all.
But the public grounds oi the city constitute a great "attraction.
They will compare with those of Boston, New York, Philadelphia,
and New Orleans, just about as the " Eighth street space " in the
"Queen city " will compare to the " New York Battery." The chief
plaza in the centre of the city, is one of the finest business squares
to be seen in any city in the world. It contains some twelve or
fifteen acres, and is beautifully paved with large hewn stone. It is
surrounded by public buildings the cathedral occupying the east
side, built upon the spot where stood the ancient temple of the sun.
On the west is the bazaar, and a long row of public offices, adorned
with piazzas which project over the side-walk the national pal
ace on the north, formerly occupied by the viceroys of Spain,, but
more recently by the presidents ; and on the south the public
market and museum. But the rural retreats about the city furnish
a far greater source of admiration. Groves are liberally inter
spersed, at appropriate distances, containing from fifteen to seventy-
five acres, planted with every variety of trees, shrubbery, and flow
ers, and in some of which artificial lakes are seen, abounding in
IN MEXICO. 91
gold fish, that wildly sport in their pure, native element. Among
these enclosures, the Alamenda, near the western limits of the city,
is the most beautiful, and whose gravelled walks, odoriferous
flowers, and marble fountains, dispel all thoughts of the indolent
and half-starved occupants without. It is a kind of Eden scene ;
and while I gazed upon it, I did not wonder that poor, persecuted
Eve should have been tempted, for where every thing was clad in
the rich profusion of beauty, who could think of sin and misery !
Besides these, there are numerous private gardens, of magnificent
beauty, handsomely laid out, with their flagged walks, bordered
with hundreds of luxuriant pots of flowers whose bloom never dies.
The public buildings are very numerous, and more than two
hundred spires proudly peer above the city. Perhaps the most
striking of all the characteristics of their architecture, are the
pyramidal masses of masonry, far exceeding in height every other
part of the edifice, between which the portals, not only those that
foVm the main entrance, but the passage between its courts, are
placed. In these apparently useless masses, the architect seems
to have sought to imitate the hewn face of the lofty rocks in
which the entrance of the excavations are usually formed. Es
pecially is this the case in regard to the building called the Pala-
cio, but which resembles more a penitentiary than the abode of a
sovereign. It has but three doors, opening on the first floor its
windows are small and barbarously arranged and altogether, it
is the most tasteless and ill-shaped building in the city. The
halls of the Senate and House of Deputies, are also on the second
floor of this uncomely edifice, besides the offices of the ministers
of finance, foreign relations, heads of departments, etc. It may
be, however, that the cathedral, so far eclipsing this building in
point of beauty and splendor, causes one to view it with severer
criticism than he otherwise would. From the descriptions I had
read of this cathedral, and from the magnificence of similar build
ings in the inferior cities of Mexico, which I had seen, I was in
duced to form opinions of its splendor on too extensive a scale
to be realized. In proportions only, it excels the cathedral at
Valladolid in beauty of architecture and grace, it cannot com
pare with the latter. It occupies an area of five hundred feet in
depth, by four hundred arid fifty in width, with a tower that com
mands a view of the entire city, and its suburbs for miles in cir
cumference, including the lakes of Tezcueo, Zumpango, San
Christoval, and Chalco. The walls are of immense thickness,
and constructed of solid stone, while the deep, tall windows, with
their finely painted glass, impart to it rather an inviting appear
ance. Yet one's admiration scarcely commences till he has en
tered within the walls. Here it is that he is awed by the enor
mous wealth and splendor of the interior. In richness of deco-
92 DONNAVAN/S ADVENTURES
rations, it must surpass any similar edifice on the continent at
least any that I have visited. The main altar, near the centre, is
of polished marble, ornamented with solid gold and silver, sur
mounted by numerous images manufactured of the same material,
and which, notwithstanding the costliness of their composition,
have to perform the menial service of candle-sticks. Extensive
lines of balustrades also surround the choir, and images of golden
saints and angels are stuck against the walls with a prodigality
that would induce the beholder to believe the wealth of empires
had here been lavished to gratify the gods. Three costly images
of full grown and handsome virgins, clad in petticoats and short
aprons, strung with emeralds, pearls, and diamonds, occupy con
spicuous positions, where they receive the addresses and adora
tions of the high and the low, the rich and the poor, notwithstand
ing their countless wealth and aristocratic attire religion making
no distinctions ; they are to be approached by all.
Among the other public buildings are the Hospital, instituted
by Cortez, immediately after the conquest, and which yet stands
an admirable monument to the munificence of the great con
queror, the Franciscan Convent, the Public Library, and the Mint.
The latter is the most extensive establishment of the kind in the
world. It employs 3000 hands, and has coined $100,000 in a
single day. There are to be found among its superintendents
several Yankees, from one of whom I learned the interesting
process of coining gold. Most of the gold found in Mexico is
brought to this mint to be coined, as silver only is coined at the
mines of Valenciana (near Guanajuato,) and Zacatecas. The
gold dust is usually melted into bullion before it is brought to the
mint ; to find the value, each parcel has to be assayed. The assay
ing is the most curious and scientific business connected with the
mint. The gold dust being cast into bars, the bars are weighed
accurately, and a piece cut off for the assayer, who melts it with
double its weight in silver, and three times its weight in lead. It
is melted in small cups made of bone ashes, which absorb all the
lead, while a large portion of silver is extracted by another
process, and the sample is then rolled out to a thin shaving, placed
in a small vial, called a rnattrass, containing nitric acid. The
mattrasses are then placed on a furnace, boiled for some time,
when the liquid is renewed, and the process repeated, till the acid
has extracted all the silver and other mineral substance, leaving
the sample pure gold. By the difference in the weight before,
and after assaying, the value is estimated. After this the bars
are melted, refined, and being mixed with a due proportion of
alloy, (equal portions of silver and copper,^ they are drawn into
long strips, cut into round pieces with a sort of punch, and milled,,
or the edge slightly raised, when they are placed in a stamping
IN MEXICO. 93
press, and come forth perfect coins. The mint in the city, as well
as other similar establishments, belongs to the government, to
which, altogether, they are a great source of revenue.
The hotels in the city are numerous, and some of them very
extensive and well-regulated. I have seldom partaken of more
elegant or sumptuous entertainments than at the public house at
which I there stopped. The table was loaded with a profusion
of meats, fruits, confectionaries, and wines. The services of
china* were rich and beautiful, and the courses followed each
other in succession, perhaps to the amount of ten or fifteen in
number. Such of the private dwelling houses as I entereH, which
were few, although of splendid exterior and spacious apartments,
did not seem to be as well furnished as those of the United States
usually are in our cities.
There are three theatres in the city, all of which are nightly
thronged. The " Principal/' which is visited by the military offi
cers and aristocracy generally, is an edifice of some credit to the
drama, but the other two, the " Puente Quebrada," and " Nuevo
Mexico," are anything else. I did not visit either, but was in
formed that the representations were, if any thing, in a more
deplorable state than the buildings. They constitute, however,
the chief source of amusement for a certain class, as bull fights in
the city have been almost entirely abandoned.
The newspaper press of the city might be considered respecta
ble, especially as compared with that of other portions of the re
public. In mechanical execution, some three or four of their
journals many be regarded as approaching neatness and taste.
There were seven daily papers published in May, and a new one,
the < ; El Sol Central," has since been established. Their news
papers, however, do not contain the same variety, nor are they
conducted with the ability of ours. Among the first acts of Santa
Anna, when he resumed the power of the government, was to
annul the law restricting the liberty of the press ; and although
nominally free, it was yet held in check by Gomez Farias and
Anaya.
El Republicano, is the oldest, and perhaps the most influential
of the newspapers, though none of them exercise anything like
the influence over society that papers do in the United States. Its
politics are not very remarkable for consistency, yet it has sustained
the war party from the commencement with energy and ability.
It is supported chiefly by the high functionaries and large propri
etors, and its principal aim seems to be to uphold the existing
state of things. It is the champion of the present, cares little for
the past, and less for the future. Instead of rushing into plans
of reform, and theories of social melioration, it follows closely the
progress of events, and shapes its course accordingly. The sub
scription price of El Republicano is $15 a year.
94
Le Courier Francais, printed in the French language, is perhaps
the best newspaper in the city. The editor does not indulge much
in the political controversies, and official squabbles, which eter
nally agitate the population, but devotes his sheet almost exclu
sively to news and literature, and has the reputation of giving the
" earliest intelligence."
El Monitor is conducted with more ability and independence
than any of its contemporaries. The editor is always ready to
discuss any subject, and he writes with a degree of freedom and
ease, peculiar to himself yet he is full of malice and deception,
and plays with his phrases as a juggler does with his balls. He
denounces Santa Arvna in the most violent and bitter terms.
Buletin de la Democracia, a new paper by Senor Jimeney, and
the especial organ of Gomez Farias, is ably conducted, and has
acquired some character both for wit and keen sarcasm, by its
frequent collisions with the organ of the peace party.
El Razonador, the peace paper, presents not only profound and
unanswerable arguments, but at times infuses in its politics a
degree of railery and cutting criticism, decidedly amusing. It op
poses, and sometimes ridicules, every project or idea advanced by
the ministry or provisional government, being careful at all times
not to assume a factious attitude, or render itself liable to the re
strictions hanging over it.
There are other papers, the Diario Gibierno, the Iris Ispanol,
&c., but their characters are of little interest or importance. The
sentences of the editor of the former seem to run out of his pen
like thread unwinding from a spool with about as mnch care,
and perhaps as little effect on the public.
Their literature, like the poor and unpitied lazaroni, who
swarm the streets in countless hordes, is in a state of beggary.
The inestimable advantages of education have been extended to
an inconsiderable portion of the population. The great mass
have been doomed to grope, through life in the Cimmerian dark
ness of absolute ignorance. Few books are printed still less
are read as the tendency of society is more to sensual than
intellectual enjoyment.
A transient visitor to this great metropolis is certain to form an
exaggerated opinion of its morals, or rather its immorality. The
deplorable ignorance of the population the loose opinions that
prevail the infidelity which totally disregards all obligations of
the marriage vow, naturally shock the feelings of those reared
under happier influences. There seem to be no kindly and eleva
ted affections to preserve the young from the contaminations of
the world into which they are precipitately launched, without a
home. There is no sanctuary for virtue like a HOME and even
in our own land of happy hearths, how many would be lost in the
IN MEXICO. 95
hour of trial, but for the thoughts of wounding and disgracing
those they have there learned to love. Most of the Mexicans, in
our sense of the word, have no home. They lodge in hired
apartments, and spend their days at the cafes, billiard rooms, lot
teries, and places of public amusement, yet the criminal calendar
is not so dark as one would be induced to anticipate from their
habits of ignorance and indolence. They are much addicted to
gambling and its kindred vices. We are apt to imagine that they
have no affinity to us. Such a conclusion is erroneous.
Man, from his earliest authentic history, and perhaps long be
fore, of whatever grade, clirne, or color, has been the instrument
of passion. His chief pursuit is the greatest amount of happi
ness, employing every energy and straining every nerve to reach
the fountain from whence he is to be blissfully wafted down the
stream of time, or like the drunkard with his bed, taking a longi
tudinal position, and, quietly awaiting the revolution of events,
which is to bring him ease, and luxury, and repose, as the case
may be. However we may differ in habits and the minor rela
tions which serve as teguments to bind up the social compact
the object, aim, and end are the same. The Mexicans eat, sleep,
and talk, much as we do, yet their routine of duties and pleasures
is quite dissimilar. Indeed, they seem to have no duty but that
of pleasure, and while the poorer classes seek it in those hells
which abound to a greater or less extent in every city, the streets
and roads in the vicinity, at all times, are thronged with the splen
did carriages of the wealthy.
Among the most pleasant drives in the vicinity, are those to the
village of Tacubaya, the country seat of the Presidents, three
miles distant, and the Catholic burying ground, two miles beyond
the city gates. I visited the la-tier, according to my universal
practice in entering a strange place, as I consider it a matter of
some importance to ascertain the extent to which grave yards are
patronised. I found it to be a most lovely rural spot, though not
to be compared to Mount Auburn, or Greenwood. Yet there is
something so striking and peculiar in the construction of a large
number of Catholic tombs as at once to challenge our admiration.
Instead of monuments or stones, there is erected over each vault,
a little chapel, some three or four feet wide, six or eight in length,
and five in height, surmounted by a cross. A neatly grated door
in front, and a little stained-glass window in the rear, enables one
to see the inscriptions, busts, wreaths of flowers, and other objects
within, which usually consist of a chair, a prayer-book, a crucifix,
or small image of the Virgin, wax candles, and other conveniences
for their forms of devotion and intercession for the departed.
Emerging suddenly from the noise and bustle of the city of the
living, and catching a first view of these little funeral temples,
96 DONNAVAN'S ADVENTURES
thickly strewed and dotted over the level plain, the thought irre
sistibly forces itself upon one, that he is traversing the city of the
dead. Here are epitaphs in almost every language ; and here,
side by side, friends and foes, and the natives of far distant climes,
quietly repose in their last long sleep together.
As a people, the citizens seem more to be actuated by impulse
than judgment. There are few conventional forms and enlightened
restrictions observed in society ; so that, whatever is said or done,
comes from the heart. In their habits and manners, the French
forms prevail over all others ; but there is a degree of unaffected
politeness peculiarly their own. The ladies are seen only in the
streets in the evening, or on holidays, in carriages. Black is the
universal color of the dress worn by the Spanish and Mexican
lady, and while among the higher classes it is remarkably elegant,
generally adorns a very perfect shape, without any of that assis
tance which nature so often receives in our own country. The
robe is usually of black velvet, tastefully worked and vandyked.
The mantilla, or reboso, is here seen in its highest state of perfec
tion. It is a kind of veil, of black silk or lace, thrown over the
head, and leaving the face uncovered, falls gracefully over the
neck and shoulders, and is confined at the waist by the arms of
the wearer. Thus clad and standing in her neat, close-fitting,
satin slippers, with her face at limes half-concealed by a gaudily
pictured paper fan, the scientific gyrations of which convey a Ian-
guage more eloquent than words, the Mexican lady may be seen
at almost any hour of the day among the bright flowers of her bal
cony, often enjoying the luxury of her sigaretto. Every body
smokes in the city man, woman, girl, and boy, almost down to
the baby just escaped from the cradle. The men belonging to
the higher classes dress in long Spanish cloaks, laced and tasselled,
a low crown, broad brimmed white hat when in the streets ; but
the greater portion of the males I saw were military officers ; who
at. that time almost overrun the city, and who were even proof
against the appeals made by " El Republicano " to the govern
ment, suggesting the propriety of starting them out to fight the
Yankees.
Upon the whole, the city of Mexico, with a population of at least
160,000, presents a motley grouping, with no distinguishing na
tional characteristic, save, perhaps, its 10,000 filthy-looking water
carriers, who supply the city with water from the canal ; and its
30,000 leperos, with that awkward display of pride in rags, which
prompts them to resist labor as an indignity, while they regard
alms-taking or light-fingering, as praiseworthy accomplishments.
IN MEXICO. 97
CHAPTER XIV.
Major Borland Public Sentiment in the City Departure for Puebla Pass
at Rio Frio Temple of the Sun City of Puebla Manufactories Public
Buildings Cathedral Investment of the City Gen. Worth Disaffection
among the Soldiers Assassinations Perote Jinny under Gen. Scott Ja-
lapa Battle-ground of Cerro Gordo National Roaa and Bridge Col.
Sowers Vera Cruz Castle of San Juan Passage across the Gulf
Island of Lobos Arrival in the United States Barry and Cunningham.
DURING my brief sojourn in the city of Mexico, I had the pleasure
of meeting with Major Borland, one of the Encarnacion prisoners,
who was captured with Cassius M. Clay, Major GaLnes, and others,
and who was then on parole, entitled to the privileges of the city.
His was the first familiar face I had encountered for more than
seven months, although I had received repeated manifestations of
kindness among strangers, upon whose generosity I had no claim.
With Major Borland I had been intimately acquainted in 1839,
and was employed at that time in his office, when he presided
over the editorial columns of the " Western World " newspaper,
at Memphis, Tenn. To him I am indebted for numerous courte
sies, and I doubt not that it was through his kind solicitude in my
behalf, that a safe conveyance was provided for me to Vera Cruz.
Through American citizens and our Consul, he had acquired much
information in regard to the condition of parties, and the agitated
state of feeling then convulsing the political circles in the capital.
On the day previous to my arrival, the legislature had cast the
vote of the province for Angel Trias (former Governor of Chihua
hua) for President. Santa Anna had arrived from Puebla, and
been driven from the city by the mob. The news of Gen. Worth's
occupation of Puebla, of which he had taken possession two days
before, had just been received, and the advance of the army under
Gen. Scott, upon the city, was confidently anticipated ; though no
measure of public defence had yet been considered, and it was
asserted that there were only five pieces of artillery there at the
command of the authorities. The peace party, and I believe a
majority of the better citizens, were looking forward to the occu
pation of the city by the American forces, as their only hope of
security against the thieving propensities of the Mexican soldiery,
who infested it, without paying that strict regard to the rights of
property so desirable to the owners.
A number of American citizens, who had been engaged in dif
ferent business pursuits, together with the American Consul, were
preparing to leave ; and availing myself of the protection afforded
by the Mexican authorities to this company, as well as the kind
98 DONNAVAN'S ADVENTURES
attentions of Mr. Black, I left with them on the morning of the
18th May for Puebla, seventy-six miles east of the capital, on the
National Road.
After passing the gates of the city, the road for several miles is
thrown up over the bed originally occupied by the water of the
Lake of Tezcuco, and which is now only a flat marsh. For a
number of years the waters of the lake have been gradually reced
ing, and only in ^he rainy seasons is this marsh inundated. The
lake itself is ill-shaped and shallow, containing many islands, and
covered with myriads of wile 1 ducks and other water-fowl ; the
delightful illusion of Chinampas, or floating gardens, having totally
vanished.
The road is a broad, smooth, unobstructed thoroughfare, passing
between parallel canals and beautiful rows of luxuriant Lombardy
poplars. It was not till we had reached the deep ravine of the
Cordova Mountain that we passed beyond a view of the towering
peaks of Popocatepetl, and Iztaccihuatl, on the south of the city,
whose colossal summits are elevated over 17,000 feet above the
level of the sea, and are covered with perpetual snow.
At a distance of thirty-six miles from the capital, we arrived at
the small walled garrison of Cordova, in the celebrated pass of
Rio Frio. This pass is perhaps a mile and a half in length, being
a steep, rugged descent through the mountain of Cordova to the
garrison, and at the foot of which winds the small stream of Rio
Frio, or Cold River. The place is inhabited by a suspicious look
ing race of beings, whose only occupation is to plunder and assas
sinate. It is situated about midway between the cities of Puebla
and Mexico, and is generally made a point or stopping place for
the night ; but our organs of caution and love of order, prompted
us to seek a shelter at a rancho, some five miles this side.
On the following day we passed through the ancient cjty of
Cholula, whose ruins have so long been an object of interest to
antiquarians. This city, before the conquest, is said to have con
tained a population nearly eqaal to that of Mexico, but is now
reduced to some 5,000. Here may be seen the remains of the
temple of the sun, so sacred to the early inhabitants. It is a
huge pyramid, 1400 feet square, and 203 feet in height. Its
base would, perhaps, cover Washington square in New York,
while its summit would rise above the pinnacles of the Univer
sity. It is surrounded by many smaller pyramids, which are said
to have been devoted to the worship of the stars.
On the evening of the second day after our departure, we
arrived safely in the city of Puebla, decidedly the most American
looking town in all Mexico. It contains a population of 80,000,
with broad elegantly paved streets, and handsome stone buildings.
The streets are much more cleanly than those of the city of Mex-
IN MEXICO. ^ 99
ico, and are built up more densely, presenting none of the ragged
suburbs which so detract from the beauty of many of the cities in
that country. There is also a greater degree of industry among
the inhabitants, who wear better clothes, and a more civilized ap
pearance than most of their neighbors, although entitled to less
confidence. It is the only city in Mexico where cotton fabrics
are manufactured to any extent ; being located on a branch of
the Nasca river, affording abundant water privileges. The num
ber of churches and convents is almost innumerable, and the
priests constitute about half the population, all of whom are un
scrupulous in their denunciations of Santa Anna, for having taken
the liberty to appropriate to his own use a large portion of their
golden church ornaments, on his precipitous retreat from the city.
Puebla is the capital of the province of the same name, and is a
purely Spanish town, having been built since the conquest. Among
its most conspicuous public buildings are the Governor's palace,
and the great Cathedral, the latter of which is represented to be
the richest in the world. Whether this be true or not, it would be
a task to undertake to compute the wealth treasured up within its
walls. The building, like all the churches there, is of the Gothic
style. In looking at these splendid edifices, what most astonishes
an American is the beautiful and substantial masonry by which
the parts are firmly knit together. The material used in the con
struction of this cathedral is different from that of any other
being a species of pale blue stone, hewn in heavy blocks, supported
by huge pillars, which terminate in towers filled with bells. These
towers are differently shaped, uniformity seeming to be by no means
essential to good looks. But on entering, one is apt to be in
spired with feelings of awe at seeing so much splendor, and so
many things the purposes of which he is unable to divine, and
which can be regarded only as the relics of a by-gone age the
images of virgins, dressed in rich embroidered satin, with strings
of pearls and diamonds dangling down about their knees, and
crowns of gold, inlaid with emeralds, around their brows. But
the eye is only arrested by their brilliancy, and confused by the mul
tiplicity of these figures ; and we are led to contrast the strange
encounter of splendor and misery by which we are surrounded
the massive marble altars, surmounted by gold and silver candela-
bras, occupied by the numerous priesthood, and the niches filled
with statues of golden saints, while the people stand, kneel, or use
hired chairs from persons in attendance, and look as if even their
hopes of heaven were not their own. In the interior of this im
mense edifice, is another species of ornament which commands
attention. It is the profusion of carving in wood, which is to be
seen about the choir in the greatest perfection. A large figure of
St. Peter is represented in this style most admirably. Depending
100 DONNAVAN'S ADVENTURES
from the centre of the great dome, is a gigantic chandelier of solid
gold and silver, exceeding ten tons in weight, and for merely clean
ing which, the '* lamp-lighter " charges the round sum of $4,000.
A strange tradition, representing the Angels to have assisted in
the erection of this building, at night, imparts to it a degree of
veneration, to which, perhaps, no other in the world has ever set
up a claim, and which has given to the city the name of " Puebla
de los Angelas"
On the 14th of May, six days previous to our arrival, Gen. Worth,
with about 6,000 men, had taken possession of the city without
firing a gun, though there had been repeated assassinations by the
Mexicans after the army had taken up its quarters within the walls,
and great dissatisfaction prevailed among the Americans, on ac
count of the lenity which was extended to the perpetrators. In
point of personal appearance and military capacity, Gen. Worth
is esteemed among the first officers of our army. He is indeed a
noble looking specimen of the Anglo-Saxon. But he failed to re
concile his men to a policy subjecting them to severe punishment
for offences which, committed by their enemies, would have been
"winked at." There were open and repeated murmurings among
our soldiery, who were compelled to lie in the open air at night,
without tents, while they might, by the right of conquest, have
occupied at least the public buildings of the city. Besides, some
of them were stabbed, or poisoned, almost daily, with impunity;
and it became a by-word in the army, that a Mexican was re
warded for what an American would be punished.
In company with a train under Capt. Varney, I left Puebla on
the 23d of May, for Vera Cruz. At Perote we met the army
under Gen. Scott, to whom I communicated briefly my own ad
ventures, and gave him a statement in regard to Mr. Cunningham,
whom I had left confined at Valladolid.
The town of Perote is a small place, some distance from the
castle of the same name. The sight of this castle brought forci
bly to mind the sufferings endured for years by many of our coun
trymen, who, like myself, had been within the power of a cruel
and unfeeling people, and was therefore an object of interest and
curiosity. I had always been accustomed to associate with my
ideas of this place, a towering castle on a high hill, but was quite
disappointed. It is situated upon a broad, sandy plain, several
miles in extent, covered with the wreck of volcanic matter. The
castle is of stone, strongly built, and commanding the country for
miles around. The main entrance is through a high wall, which
is succeeded by a deep ditch, then another wall, then the castle,
mounting a large number of guns of every size. The enclosure
is over an acre in extent, and surrounded by two-story buildings,
the upper rooms of which had 'been occupied by officers of the
IN MEXICO. 101
Mexican army, and the lower ones used as barracks. In the
lower part of the castle are the prison cells, which look far more
gloomy and uninviting than did the Valladolid printing office, and
afforded me the consolation of realizing the fact that I had not
been an inhabitant of the worst place on the top of the earth
for men are apt to reason by comparison. No defence was made
by the enemy at Perote, notwithstanding the strength of the
place, and the army under Gen. Scott were enjoying peaceable
possession of the fortress, and preparing to take up the line of
march for Puebla, on the 25th of May.
Between Perote and Jalapa, we passed a splendid hacienda,
said to belong to Santa Anna, situated a short distance from, but
within plain view of the road. The estate is a very extensive
one, delightfully situated, and is said to have been at one time a
favorite retreat of the dictator.
The distance from Perote to Jalapa is thirty-three miles. After
passing over five miles of smooth road, handsomely paved or
flagged, we reached this picturesque city on the evening of the
24th. Jalapa is justly celebrated for the beauty of its women,
and its profusion of fruits and flowers. It is located on the back
bone of a ridge, receding to the east and west, and so steep and
tortuous are the streets, that a carriage can only pass along the
main road. The houses are built of stone, and are of the most
tasteful architecture the only public building of importance is
the convent of San Francisco, from the tower of which is a splen
did view of the city of Vera Cruz and the Gulf of Mexico, sixty-
six miles distant. It contains 12,000 inhabitants, and is among
the most pleasant, healthy, and beautiful cities in Mexico. After
the battle of Cerro Gordo, the authorities received the victorious
conquerors in a most hospitable manner.
From the village of Las Viegas, a few miles east from Perote,
to Vera Cruz, the road descends more than ^,000 feet. Leaving
Jalapa early in the morning, and after alternately climbing over
hills and sinking into ravines, we soon came upon the battle-ground
of Cerro Gordo. situated nearly midway between that city and
the National Bridge. The scene of this great triumph of Amer
ican arms is a sort of double ridge, on the summit of the west
ern elevation of which the enemy was fortified. So that to make
a successful attack, our army had first to rush down a precipice,
then climb to the brow of a succeeding one, .in the very mouth of
the cannon of tiie enemy. The history of this fierce and desper
ate conflict, and the amusing manner in which Santa Anna de
camped, leaving his carriage, preserved meats, and flavored Ha-
vanas, like Joseph's, at Vittoria, to the spoil of the victors, is well
known to the country ; yet the unspeakable horrors which sur-
ro unded the scene even a month after the engagement, can scarcely
9
102 DONNAVAN'S ADVENTURES
be conceived. The gorge of the ravine was clogged up with the
half-naked bones of the dead bodies of the flower of the Mexi
can army, over which black clouds of buzzards were hovering,
eager for the banquet. The enemy had DO time to halt to per
form the last sad duty for their fallen comrades, and while some
were left as food for the vulture, others who had been so wounded
as to be unable to escape, had been taken to the hospitals, where
their agonizing groans fell upon the ear like low, hollow sounds
from the charnel-house. The Mexican cannot face danger and
meet death like the Yankee. He may possess that impetuosity
which is sufficient only to impel him to a single and desperate
charge, but he has not the lasting courage to meet the fatigues
and dangers of a tedious conflict, where men are required to over
come natural obstacles, and rush onward while death is raining
among their ranks. And even after the excitement of the battle,
when the blood becomes cool, and the energies relaxed a time
when the sick and wounded are expected to murmur and com
plain while the American bears his sufferings with a manly for
titude, the poor Mexican, in his misery, will be found raving like
a maniac.
The Puente Nacional, or National Bridge, across the Antigua
river, some thirty miles from Vera Cruz, is a massive work of
stone. This was once a strong fortification, the ruins of which
may yet be seen on the adjoining hills. About two miles on the
other side of the bridge we saw the broken diligence of Col.
Sowers, who was killed with seven of his escort, by a guerrilla
party, on the day previous to our passing the bridge. Col. Sow
ers was bearer of despatches from Washington to Gen. Scott.
The National road, leading from Vera Cruz to the city of Mex
ico, is a thoroughfare which would be creditable to the enterprise
of any country ; it is broad, in places well graded, and McAdam-
ized. Passing through Santa Fe, a small village on a stream
about ten miles from Vera Cruz, we arrived at the latter place
early in the evening of May 26. The train with which I came
from Puebla consisted of fifty-six men.
As no vessel was to leave Vera Cruz for some days, I awaited
the arrival of the James L. Day, Capt. Wood. The vomito was
raging among several companies of volunteers. The war-worn
veterans from Illinois were there, straggling back in squads from
Cerro Gordo, and they presented a most sad appearance. They
looked like any thing else than " revellers in the halls of the Mon-
tezumas," and worn down by sickness and fatigue, were the mere
shadows of men. Among their trophies, was a splendid brass
six-pounder, to be sent to the State of Illinois as a present in
token of the gallantry of her sons.
Vera Cruz extends more than two miles along the sandy coast
IN MEXICO. 103
of the Gulf. It was once the greatest commercial city on the
American continent, but is now left far in tjie rear of many rivals,
having declined since the revolution with Spain. Its streets are
well paved, and seemed quite cleanly. The walls of the city are
constructed of coral rock, and are very thick, with a fort at each
extremity of the water front, where parapet guns have been placed.
The city contains a population of 8,000, and is supplied with
water from cisterns. The Governor's Palace in Vera Cruz is a
fine public building, but the plaza on which it is situated is the
most diminutive I saw in any of the towns of Mexico. The city
presented a sad and ragged picture, a large number of the build
ings having been demolished during the bombardment. The dis
tance from Vera Cruz to Mexico is 280 miles.
The castle of San Juan de Ulloa is built on an island of rock,
more than half a mile from the shore, fronting the city. The
depth of the water between the island and the shore is many
fathoms, so that vessels lie there in perfect safety. Boats are con
tinually passing and repassing between the island and the shore.
The castle occupies the entire island, forming an enclosure of
about twelve acres, almost square. Massive walls of masonry
compose the outer works, which are so high that inclined planes
are constructed within, so as to facilitate the ascent of oxen with
their heavy ordnance. There are, within this enclosure, more than
twenty fortresses, each independent of the other, and elevated
above the outer wall. These fortresses are mounted with batter
ies, and arranged so as not to interfere with each other when em
ployed in the defence of the castle. The basements are occupied
as stores, and in time of peace a lively trade is carried on. Thus
the appearance of a small walled city is imparted to the interior,,
with its paved sidewalks, and stores. Should the enemy gain the
outer wall, these store rooms can be converted into batteries, by,
letting the guns down from above. Within the walls there ara
cisterns, sufficiently commodious to contain a year's supply of
water, besides wells for the powder magazines, where that artiele
is placed beyond the reach of bombs. The castle is said to have
cost forty thousand dollars, and when built by Spain, was consid
ered impregnable.
On the morning of June 3d, comfortably situated on the James
L. Day, we pushed out into the Gulf, leaving the numerous spires
of Vera Cruz to fade away in the horizon and on the succeed
ing morning, upon going on deck, I found the " Day " anchored
off the fairy-like island of Lobos, where she had been driven in
the night by a slight gale. This island, about two miles in cir
cumference, ten from the shore, and one hundred and forty miles
from Vera Cruz, is formed entirely of coral, studded with banyan
trees, and vines of luxuriant growth, covered with flowers>of the
104
most mellifluous odors. Taking an easterly direction from Lobos,
the vessel arrived at New Orleans on the 10th of June, where
after an absence of fourteen months, and after travelling sixteen
hundred miles through the interior of Mexico, I again found my
self free, and on my native shores, quite satisfied with what I had
seen of the elephant.
I here learned that my friend Dr. Barry, with the Zacatecan
prisoners, had made his escape from Acapulco that he had
arrived in New Orleans some two months before me, where by
letter he communicated to my friends the first information they
received of our fate. It is presumed that Mr. Cunningham is
yet where I left him, in Valladolid, amusing himself with the
Spanish type, and the fair Policarpa ; at least I have had no in
telligence from him, since the memorable night of my unceremo
nious elopement.
It may be thought strange that I did not attempt to facilitate
his escape, at the time of my own departure. But the reader
must recollect that I have already stated the fact of our occupy
ing separate rooms, and in such an adventure I might myself have
been detected. Besides, it was a question in mind, whether he
would be willing to resign his dear senorita, for nothing so domes
ticates a man as love.
CHAPTER XV.
Mexico Extent of Territory Soil Climate Maguey Plant Cochineal
Vanilla Cotton and Sugar Potatoes Chili Timber Water
Tobacco Commerce Conquest Revolution Independence Influence
and Wealth of the Priesthood Santa Anna Gen. Almonte Gomez Farias
Gen. Herrera Senor Jlleman Education The War Manner of Con
ducting it Destiny.
THE Republic of Mexico is composed of twenty provinces, or
states Tamaulipas, New Leon, Coahuila, Chihuahua, Sonora
and Sinaloa, Durango, Jalisco, Aguescalientes, Zacatecas, San Luis
Potosi, Queretaro, Guanajuato, Mechoacan, Colima, Mexico, Pue-
bla, Vera Cruz, Oajaca, Tobasco, and Chiapas. Besides these
might be included the dependencies of New Mexico and Califor
nia. In extent of territory, they may be compared to the states of
our union, yet they are generally larger ; the whole extending from
latitude 16 to 33 1-2, and forming a line of coast on the Pacific
and Gulf of California, 3000 miles in length, bounded on the east
and north by the Gulf of Mexico, and the Rio Grande. The dis
tance from the shores of the Gulf to those of the Pacific varies
IN MEXICO. 105
from 1000 to 1200 miles, including an area of some 1,600,000
square miles, and a population, according to their own estimate, of
twelve millions.
During his involuntary tour through the country, the author
visited twelve of these provinces Tamaulipas, New Leon, Coa-
huila, Zacatecas, Aguescalientes, San Luis Potosi, Guanajuato,
Mechoacan, Q,ueretaro, Mexico, Puebla, and Vera Cruz, situated
in the very heart, and richest region of the republic, and present
ing every variety of surface, soil, and climate. The two great
chains of the Cordillera mountains, the Sierra Madre and Sierre
Santa, being a continuation of the Andes of South America,
diverging from the isthmus, stretch across the country near its
eastern and western borders, the former gradually diminishing in
the hills of Coahuila, while the latter continues and cofmects it
self with the Rocky Mountains of Oregon. Between these two
great ranges, is included what is termed the table lands of Mexi
co, at an elevation of from 4000 to 8000 feet above the level of
the sea. These table lands comprise over three-fifths of the whole
territory, and although varying in altitude, frequently stretch out
in broad plains and prairies, unsurpassed in fertility of soil.
There has been so much said and written in regard to the cli
mate of Mexico, that little can be added which will not assume
the appearance of repetition. Yet those who have been beneath
its sunny skies and inhaled its balmy atmosphere, receive impres
sions differing immaterially in the abstract, and degrees of admi
ration ; while few can repress a disposition to record the emotions
to which any warm and genial clime intuitively gives birth.
In the construction of their dwellings, such an appendage as a
chimney, or fire-place, is not thought of, and the very necessary
and essential domestic duty of cooking is performed oat of doors,
in the yard or streets. In the streets of all the cities, the eye
meets the daily spectacle of the poorer, houseless and homeless
part of the population, cooking their scanty fare, on small furna
ces erected for the purpose. This, more than anything else, will
serve to explain the nature of the temperature.
The climate seems to be influenced more by altitude than lati
tude, the three grand divisions of elevation above the level of the
sea, presenting in all parts of the country about the same degree
of temperature, and producing the same species of vegetation.
Between Vera Cruz and Perote, a distance of one hundred miles,
almost the same variety and gradation of climate will be observed
as in travelling from the equator to the arctic circle, that is, if one
have the curiosity to ascend to the snowy peak of Oriziba, near
the latter place, the summit of which is covered with perpetual
snow.
Tierras Calientes includes the low lands on the coast, where
106 DONNAVAN'S ADVENTURES
the climate is excessively hot, and adapted to the production of
sugar, coffee, indigo, cotton, rice, cocoa, cochineal, oranges, ban
anas, olives, and every variety of tropical fruits. To the decom
position of the rank vegetable substances of this region is attrib
uted the cause of the epidemic called vomitOj so fatal to the
health and life of both natives and visitors.
Tierras Templadas includes the vast table lands, in which the
climate seldom varies more than ten degrees during the entire
round of the seasons, and where one eternal spring reigns unbro
ken. In less elevated portions of this region, most of the tropical
fruits are produced, though it is better adapted to such growths as
corn, maguey, tobacco, chili, peaches, cherries, melons, strawber
ries, &c. Three and four crops of corn are here produced in
one year, and as a consequence, it is cultivated to a greater extent
than any other grain, affording the chief article of food for the
population. Green corn is to be seen as well in December, Janu
ary, and February, as in June, July and August.
Tierras Frias is the still higher region, or mountain slopes, and
subject to greater variations of temperature. Wheat, rye, oats,
barley, potatoes, &c., constitute the chief productions of this di
vision, which is usually covered with large oak and pine timber, as
high as twelve thousand feel above the level of the sea.
Among the most remarkable productions of Mexico, with which
we are unfamiliar in the United States, may be mentioned the
maguey plant and cochineal. The maguey is produced in every
degree of temperature, and is uninjured by heat, cold, or drought.
In the best soil, it grows to an enormous size, from twenty to
thirty feet high, and will often measure around the trunk as much
as three feet in circumference. It generally arrives to maturity in
five years, in the tierras calientes, but in the tierras frias it sel
dom ripens short of twenty years. After flowering, the top is cut
off, the soft substance or pulp removed from the interior, so as to
form a kind of bowl, in which daily accumulates some two gallons
of mucilaginous acid, during a period of five or six months. Upon
fermentation, this becomes what is termed by the natives pulque,
and which, by a process of distillation, is made into whisky. The
population in many districts, where there is no water, use this
only, as a beverage. At first, it has a most disgusting taste, and
still worse smell, but one will soon become accustomed to it. From
the fibrous substance contained in the bark and leaves of the ma
guey, paper, ropes, and even clothing are sometimes manufactured.
The root when properly prepared, is a most palatable and nutri
tious diet ; while the thorns of its leaves serve as pins for the
ladies' garments. The maguey is regarded as the most profitable
growth in the country ; and where alone cultivated, on extensive
haciendas, often yields a yearly income to the proprietors of fifty
thousand dollars.
IN MEXICO. 107
Cochineal is a production of the nopal, a plant of the cactus
species, which is cultivated in rows, like Indian corn. On every
leaf of the nopal is pinned a short piece of hollow cane, in which
a number of the insects are confined, where, as they multiply, the
young ones crawl out and take up a permanent residence on the
leaf of their nativity, upon which they feed. At the close of the
dry season, these insects are brushed from the dead leaves, and
dried. The cochineal is an insect little larger than a common
tick, and in early times was supposed to be the seed of the plant
it is used in dyeing silks, for which the female is alone valuable,
and is in some of the provinces of Mexico extensively raised for
exportation. Vanilla, which is used in the manufacture of choco
late, and various luxuries, grows spontaneously.
The table lands of Mexico will produce almost every species of
vegetation, in a higher state of perfection and greater abundance
than any other portion of the North American continent ; yet se
duced by the great wealth of her mineral resources, the population
bestow little attention upon agriculture. Cotton and sugar will,
doubtless, at some future day, form the staple productions of these
lands, which, with the exception of an occasional sandy desert,
under proper cultivation, might be made to yield abundant har
vests. As yet, neither of these articles have been grown to a suf
ficient extent to supply the home demand the cotton crop
never exceeding 90,000 bales. The low lands are well adapted
to the production of rice, and if ever cultivated extensively, will
perhaps be appropriated to that purpose.
What is usually called the Irish potatoe, is a native of Mexico,
and was first found there after the discovery of America. It has
a prolific yield, but the varieties are not so numerous as in this
country, where attention has been given to its improvement and
culture.
Chili, the small red pepper, grows spontaneously, and is also
cultivated as an indispensable article of diet. An almost incon
ceivable amount of it is consumed by the inhabitants, who devour
the pods by the dozen, in their primitive state, besides using it
in nearly every dish they eat.
In most regions the timber is of a low, shaggy growth, though
groves of pine, cedar, cypress, and oak, are often to be found grow
ing as large as in any country. Such a spectacle as a rail fence
never meets the eye the inclosures all being made of hedge, for
which most of the stunted, thorny growth, and maguey, seems pur
posely adapted, the contrast between the long lines of deep tangled
shrubbery and vines, decked with wild flowers, and the dull, lifeless-
looking rail fences of the United States, deeply impresses one with
admiration for the former.
1 was not prepared to find water so plentiful as it really is, from
108 DONNAVAN'S ADVENTURES
the accounts I had previously read of the country ; and in only one
instance, during our entire journey, did I suffer from thirst.
This was in a sandy desert in Coahuila, where we found no water
in three days' travel. Rain seldom falls in Mexico except in July,
August, and September ; these months are called the rainy season,
during which time a large amount of water fa-lls in showers, or
steady rains, of almost daily occurrence. As a consequence, arti
ficial irrigation becomes necessary, but there are few districts of any
considerable extent which could not, by the construction of simple
hydraulic works, be sufficiently supplied with water, the only ma
nure required, to produce at least one hundred and fifty bushels of
corn to the single acre, annually.
Tobacco is produced in large quantities, in many of the provinces,
but this is a government monopoly, the leaf, when cured and baled,
being purchased of the growers at a price fixed by the government.
It is collected in warehouses in the different districts, and conveyed
to the capital, where a segar manufactory, sufficiently extensive to
supply that article to the whole population, is carried on under the
supervision of the government.
Notwithstanding the immense wealth of the country, its com
merce is limited and diminutive. Its chief exports are confined to
the precious metals, furnished from some twenty or thirty mining
districts, and which have produced annually from $20,000,000 to
$25,000.000 in gold and silver. An inconsiderable trade has been
carried on in the article of cochineal, indigo, logwood, jalap, and
vanilla, but including all, the annual exports have never risen above
$20,000,000, while the imports have never exceeded $ 15,000,000.
Owing to the vascillating character of the government, and the in
ordinate thirst for gold, which has always characterized its officers
and people, and which still exists, an immense contraband trade,
so fatal to legitimate commerce, is kept up, under every change of
rulers. Large amounts of bullion from Zacatecas and other mining
districts, are smuggled out of ports on the Pacific, while various
articles of merchandise from foreign countries are received with
unblushing impunity, through the bribery and the infidelity of cus
tom-house officers, whose ideas of " tariff" and " free trade " are
of such convenience as generally to conform to their own interests.
The precise amount of the population of Mexico is difficult to
determine. At present the inhabitants estimate it at from ten to
twelve millions, though no census has been taken for a number of
years. The population is made up of almost every color. The
pale face maintains its aristocracy among all, although the negroes
are allowed to vote. Few of the male population are to be found
without the tinge of a fair mulatto, though his blood be pure, which
is attributed to the influence of the climate and atmosphere. The
ladies of pure blood are often very nearly as fair as our own. The
IN MEXICO. 109
white population is not numerous, and will not amount to over one
million in the whole country. Descending one degree below the
white is the Mestizoe, made up of a great variety, white, Indian,
and negro. Of this class there is over three millions. Next is the
Zamboo, a progeny of the Indian and negro, which class, with the
Indians, negroes, and quarteroons, make up the balance of the pop
ulation. Of the negro race there is not over one hundred thousand,
while the Indians, who are often the best citizens of the country,
number five millions. The difference in the dialects of the people
in the different provinces, is about the same as that in the shires of
England and it is sometimes with difficulty that they can under
stand each other.
It has been no part of the author's object to enter into the early
history of Mexico. To those who desire such a work, reliable in
fact and detail, he would recommend that of the great historian,
Preseott. The early conquest of Mexico by Cortez is a dreamy
story even of school-boy days. The city of golden idols, hu
man hecatombs, a populous empire, and the overthrow of the un
fortunate Montezuma, has often risen up to our vision like the
incredible and enchanted scenes of the Arabian Knights. The
country was "then inhabited by the aborigines, who had so far ad
vanced in civilization as to build a greater and more splendid city
than now occupies its place the work of their conquerors. In
1521, when Spain in her turn, enjoyed her proud supererogative of
power, the banners of her cross floated in triumph from the heathen
temples of the natives, who, knowing nothing better or sublimer
to adore, worshipped the sun, as their more enlightened but heart
less invaders did the living God. For three hundred years her
power thus attained, was acknowledged and respected in the colony
by a people, who, accustomed only to the tyranny of rulers, and
living in an enervating climate occupying a country whose
wealth was beyond computation were lured into ease and luxury
who, with no impetus to stimulate their energies, and mingling
promiscuously with the aborigines, gradually retrograded in the
scale of intelligence, till they began more to represent the natives
they had vanquished, than the conquerors from whom they were
descended. That there were exceptions men who thought and
felt that their country was retrograding, rather than advancing with
the spirit of the age and times, is doubtless true but they were
allied more to the slavery of the church, than to civil liberty. Stim
ulated by some motive, for the purity of which his own soul is
perhaps responsible, in 1810, the slight murmurs of insurrection
which were kindling to a flame, burst into open revolt through
Don Minguel Hidalgo, a Catholic priest of Dolores ; who, at the
head of a large army, raised under the standard of the " Virgin of
Guadaloupe," commenced the work which finally resulted in eman-
110 DONNAVAN'S ADVENTURES
cipating his country from the thraldom of Spanish rule. He met
the fate which all the pioneers in a great cause are almost certain
to encounter. After a short career, in which his success was bril
liant, he was betrayed and beheaded. Other Generals arose in his
place, among whom may be mentioned Morelos, Guerrero, Victoria,
and Matamoras, and for a period of nearly three years a fierce and
sanguinary war pervaded the whole land. But from 1813 to
1820, peculiar circumstances operated to retard the progress of the
country towards independence, to lengthen out their struggle with
Spain, and to produce opposite parties, divisions in sentiment, chi
merical or false principled notions, and even the horrors of civil
war itself.
The vast territory was, and is even yet, thinly inhabited, by a
population confined principally to the towns and cities, then divided
into capitanias, or viceroyalties, having little or no mutual com
munication, or means of concerting combined resistance to Spain.
The people themselves, as a body, being deplorably ignorant, and
divided into numerous castes, all of whom opposed each other,
either from feeling or interest, could not unite in a common cause.
Yet they had all contracted a habit of obeying Spanish princes :
for no where had the maxim of passive obedience and the divine
right of' kings been so earnestly inculcated by all the power of the
priesthood. Second only to the clergy, in means of influence,
were the Castilians, or European Spaniards, whose power and
riches were, of course, actively engaged in sustaining the author
ity of Spain ; and by engrossing all the important offices, they
deprived the Creoles, or those of Mexican birth, of any opportunity
for obtaining the required qualifications for public employments.
Such are the gradual encroachments of tyranny, tamely submitted
to, that were it unrestricted by a mightier power, would steal away
both body and soul. Besides, Mexico had so long enjoyed a pro
found peace, that its inhabitants possessed little more military
knowledge than did the Aztec race, whom their ancestors had de
throned. They were even destitute of arms and munitions of war ;
all these being in the arsenals of the government, or in the hands
of the small body of troops, which it maintained in convenient
stations upon the sea-coast. Owing to these unfortunate circum
stances in their condition, they had the whole structure of inde
pendence to begin from its very foundation. Those who are
familiar with the history of the revolution in Mexico, and in the
several governments of South America, will readily call to mind
the untoward events produced by the circumstances here adverted
to. Yet in the dark hours of their adversity, the free world did
not fail to sympathize with them, and numbers of our own country
men left their homes and firesides to join them in their struggle
for independence. In fact, perhaps no other circumstance exer-
IN MEXICO. Ill
cised so powerful an influence to prompt the thinking and well
informed inhabitants of Mexico to long for liberty, as the example
of the United States of North America. It was truly a most bril
liant and alluring spectacle, that of a new people rending asunder
the strong ties that had bound them to England, and who had
rendered themselves independent who, organized as a great re
public, enjoyed the most perfect liberty which man can possess in
the social state who, under wise and beneficent institutions,had
prospered and augmented with astonishing rapidity who, in fine,
were Americans, more recently settled on the continent than those
who held the soil in Mexico, and who seemed destined to the same
high career with their brethren of the North, could they but estab
lish their independence of Spain. It was impossible that these
ideas should not spread with celerity among intelligent Mexicans,
and that they should not prepare the elements of a wide confla
gration.
After a struggle of eleven years, through the disorganization of
the mother country itself, Mexico became independent inde
pendent of Spain, yet their emancipation brought with it little else
than confusion and anarchy. The want of intelligence, of popu
lation, of resources, made several provinces mere dead limbs for a
union, even had one been contemplated ; and a Central govern
ment, entitledthe " Plan of Iguala," was adopted ; and through
dissensions among the demagogical leaders of factions, Iturbide,
by his own intrigues, sustained by the influence of the church, as
cended the throne. He had not long worn his " royal robes,"
however, till in his turn he was compelled not only to abdicate his
place, but was banished from his country, and finally executed on
his return in 1824. In the same year, what is called the federal
constitution was adopted, modelled principally from that of the
United States, excluding the provision which recognizes the right
of trial by jury, and establishing a provision recognizing the Cath
olic as the only religion of the country. It entitles all citizens of
whatever grade or color, to the right of suffrage yet this is a
mere formality a mockery to the sovereignty of the mass, where
the church wields the supreme power. The priesthood of Mexico,
including the monks and nuns, amounts to about ten thousand
persons, and the combined wealth of the clergy is estimated at
$200,000,000. No chapel dedicated to any other faith is to be
found or suffered to exist in the country, and the Catholic priest
hood have unlimited control of both soul and body. Owning more
than half of the property and wealth of the country, they are of
course entitled to the exercise of the privilege entailed upon their
possessions, of giving to the people their manners and morals ; and
to their examples in the cities, may be justly attributed many of
the vices which prevail among their ignorant followers. To repeat
112 DONNAVAN'S ADVENTURES
here the profligate indulgences attributed to the city priesthood,
would be too great an infringement upon all rules of modesty ;
yet their licentiousness is no more a secret there, than the open
and unblushing manner in which they visit the degraded haunts
of gaming houses, cafes, and other resorts of infamy, to sanction
their corruptions and participate in their amusements.
It is proper here to remark, that the curas or country clergy,
sustain quite the opposite character from their city brethren ; and
besides being pious and devotional in their habits, exercise a kind
of monitorial supervision over those placed under their pastoral
charge, and who regard them with a high degree of veneration
asking and following their advice in all things. Indeed, the con
duct of many of the curas is characterized by a degree of gene
rosity and kindness to the poor, worthy to be imitated in our own
enlightened land.
It is a great mistake in those who have propagated the idea,
that the clergy of the city of Mexico court the approach of the
American army as a means of security to their church treasures.
If there is anything sacred in the eyes of a Mexican, (a problem
which has not yet been satisfactorily solved,.) be he ranchero,
brigand, or lepero,Jit is his religion and the property of his church.
Whatever may have been the revolutions whatever may be
the church has been, aud will continue to be, sa^fe from direct
spoliation.
We may talk as we please of Mexico, and sticklers entertaining
circumscribed views, may deplore as they will her loss of inde
pendence and nationality yet what is that independence, what
that nationality ? The only independence studied is, how to live
independent of labor, while their nationality is in the hands of
demagogues, entertaining no sympathy for the ignorant mass, and
who would sell their country, rather than submit to innovations
recognizing an equality of rights. In looking upon the Mexican race
as it now exists, knowing nothing of it, one would be tempted to
ask, by what accident of birth or circumstance they exhibit so gro
tesque a character in so serious a drama at'first contending for
empire and honor, then for independence and nationality ! This
apparent inconsistency is all explained, however, upon acquiring a
knowledge of their condition. Their government, as it has ever
been, since the date of the revolution, is without energy without
stability destitute of moral honesty and mteans. Party spirit,
unlike the cool and calculating collisions of sentiment which often
agitate our own body politic, divides her citizens discord waves
her incendiary torch anarchy and confusion exist among them
selves, and their soldiery are left unprovided and uncared for ; as
the church, being the treasury, can make no disbursements till it
ascertains which is the stronger and most likely to succeed of the
IN MEXICO. 113
factions. The monster, party spirit, so rocked and cherished in
the cradle of their revolution, is now grown to full manhood, and
convulses all who are at all susceptible to such influences ; and the
invasion of their territory, which should bring out all the patriotic
energies of man, has best convinced the world of their weakness,
egotism, cowardice, and truculence, according to the various
changes of the scenes.
Santa Anna has long been the ruling spirit of the land, and
with all his cruelty and pomposity, possesses a stronger intellect
and a more perfect knowledge of the nature and disposition of his
people, than any man in Mexico. His prominent trait of charac
ter has seemed to be to create expectations which he never intend
ed to fulfil ; but possessing the tact to turn every thing to his ad
vantage in the end, has been the secret of his success. He is
known to be a deceiver; yet he knows how to deceive. And
where there is a total lack of confidence in all, the choice among
rogues generally devolves upon the most accomplished among
them.
Gen. Almonte, who was arrested and confined in prison last
May, in his own country, on a pretended charge of having com
promised his position, by making certain disclosures and overtures
to the United States, is the first, in point of ability, and perhaps
the only honest public man in Mexico. Almonte has spent much
of his life in the United States, and was long the Minister of
Mexico to our government at Washington. He is the illicit, son
of Morelos, one of the most distinguished of the revolutionary
Generals, who fell in the defence of his country. His intellect is
highly cultivated, and he possesses all the qualities of a polished
gentleman.
Gomez Farias, the scenes of whose life and career have been
chequered with events much after the fashion of Santa Anna, is
a man of deep thought. The cause of his being superceded by
Anaya, as Provisional President, was owing to his proposition to
tax the church property. Had he been sustained in making his
proposed levies, the Mexican government would have presented a
more vigorous resistance at Vera Cruz a more numerous and
better provided army at Buena Vista a more effective plan and
a more vigorous defence at Cerro Gordo and altogether a far
more serious resistance than has attended the overthrow of Farias
and his plans.
Gen. Herrera, recently a prominent candidate for the Presi
dency, is a great favorite of the church party, and in the absence
of Santa Anna, would doubtless exercise a controlling influence.
During the canvass,. he was represented as the peace candidate,
but would in the event of his elevation be subject to the control
of the clergy.
114 DONNAVAN'S ADVENTURES
Senor Aleman is among the most influential men in the country,
especially among the priesthood, over which he exercises almost
absolute control. Reports were currently circulated, that Aleman,
in behalf of the church, had op'ened a correspondence with the
European powers, in regard to forming an alliance, by which some
prince from the other side of the water, was to be elevated to the
throne of Mexico. Reports and surmises of this character, are
often the creations of political speculators ; though this was suffi
ciently plausible to receive general credence, and seemed to sur
prise no one in Mexico.
Generals Ampudia, Arista, Ricon, Bravo, &c., are men of cred
itable capacities, but possess none of those prominent traits of char
acter calculated to distinguish them, with all their opportunities.
Generals Sallus, Valencia, Requina, and a host of others, con
stitute the third class of the " great men " of the republic, and
who have perhaps never imbibed an idea beyond their individual
preferment and egotistical self-conceit.
It should not be supposed that among the private circles of so
ciety in Mexico, there are no men of cultivated manners, refined
taste, and profound intellect. This would be an anomaly indeed,
in a population of at least 10,000,000. As profound scholars,as
accomplished gentlemen, and as hospitable hearts, may here be
found, as in almost any quarter of the globe ; yet their number is
comparatively limited, and out of the entire population, perhaps
not one hundred thousand, or one of every one hundred, can
read. Here lies the great secret of their misfortunes. And it is
not an uncommon spectacle in all the cities, to see among the
multitudes who crowd the streets, confidential scribes, supplied
with a stool and writing apparatus, whose business it is to indite
letters to order for the ignorant population, who keep them profit
ably employed. There are no schools for the mass !
Under such a state of things what apparent folly it seems to be,
among our tenacious politicians of any party, to grieve about the
dismemberment of a neighboring republic ! However the war
may terminate, God has doubtless designed it for the accomplish
ment of his own high purposes. If any part of those purposes be
to open a new era upon this China of the new world, it is already
accomplished in embryo. That philanthropy which would pre
scribe the blessings of enlightened liberty to certain limits, deserves
not the name ; and there is a narrow selfishness far behind the
age, in the policy which would justify us in the tame enjoyment
of the freest government on earth, while our nearest neighbors are
sunk in the very depths of ignorance and vice not even per
mitted to choose a God to worship ! That the war has cost
treasures, perils, and lives, no one will deny yet it will produce
new treasures, happiness, and new life !
IN MEXICO. 1 15
The justness or the injustice of the war is a fit subject for pol
iticians to quarrel about, and may be decided by those whose
knowledge of international law will qualify them to render a satis
factory verdict ; though the propriety of arguing the question, and
openly advocating the cause of the enemy during the existence of
hostilities, may be doubted.
The expediency of such a course of conduct is certainly ques
tionable ; for an enemy who knows nothing of our institutions,
and who very naturally judges the dispositions of men and
governments by comparisons at home, arrives at the very plau
sible conclusion, that serious dissensions exist ; and but for this
simple fact, there is little doubt that the war, so much regretted
by these very men, would now have been terminated. Like most
foreigners, they misconceive the nature of our institutions. They
are not aware that our internal battles consist only of a " war of
words," and that an American editor or representative may give
free utterance to his individual views, while reason and the fiat of
an intelligent constituency are left free to combat and correct them.
Very different is the state of things in Mexico ; while dissensions
really exist among her people, nothing is to be heard but vapor,
boast, aud fume, and to read their manifestos, the natural conclu
sion would be that they are the most warlike and unconquerable
people under heaven. Those who really favor peace, and in truth
a large portion of the better class would rejoice in the occupation
of the country by our people seldom give audible utterance to
their sentiments fearing that they might be reasoned with in a
rather summary manner. Hence, those ignorant of the facts,
conclude that there is no peace party in Mexico, and that the voice
of all is for open war. Their papers and proclamations are filled
with predictions of future victories, to the utter exclusion of present
defeats, and while they seem, with one accord and one heart, to
proclaim their own invincible determination never to surrender,
they seldom face their adversaries, and never without disastrous
defeat.
To one who has been over the battle-grounds, traversed the in
terior country, suffered with the many who have suffered, and
become familiar with all the important circumstances of the
present war, the manner in which it has been conducted presents
itself without a single mark of sagacity. It would seem that it
had been prolonged for no visible object, except to create patron
age for partisans ; though for the credit of humanity such a mo
tive should not be attributed to its prosecutors. It is much easier
to prophesy after we have been apprised of events which are to
transpire, and one can look back upon his errors with far greater
facility than he can distinguish and avoid them in the future.
But the policy of sending two small armies into the wild regions
1 16 DONNAVAN'S ADVENTURES
of New Mexico and the Rio Grande, without a sufficient force to
retain possession of the country after it was conquered, and for
the apparent object of affording only an opportunity for brilliant
exploits, in conquering a half-barbarous race, and then leaving
them to resume their power and places, is totally inexplicable,
both before and after its adoption.
When hostilities first commenced, the true wisdom of legisla
tion would have suggested the raising of fifty thousand volunteers,
who were then offering their services to the government in count
less regiments ; all of whom could have been landed at Vera
Cruz in October, (1846.) Such an army, levying contributions
on the country for its support, might have marched at once to the
capital, and subdued the country at half the cost, both in blood
and treasure. Instead of such a vigorous prosecution of the war
to a speedy termination, a sort of tampering policy has been pur
sued, and our forces have moved with a degree of tardiness, in
ducing one to forget that Napoleon had so recently instructed the
world in the art of warfare. These halting, timid, undetermined
movements, inspire the enemy with renewed confidence ; and
after a continued conflict of nearly twenty months sufficient
time for us to have whipped all Europe Mexico bids fair to ex
hibit one of those horrible catastrophes which stand out boldly
and distinctly in the annals of human calamity. The agitaied con
dition of the country since 1810, has bred her public men in the
school of turmoil, and they have learned to look upon scenes of
blood with comparative complacency. With their last hopes
staked, they may not be deterred by any consideration of social
consequences ; and with an object akin to that of the desperado,
they would cheerfully blow up the strongholds of our army as
they enter, and involve in one common ruin the conquerors and
' the conquered.
There is much speculation in regard to the result of the present
war, and notwithstanding little doubt hangs over the final issue,
the proclamation of a guerrilla warfare, giving authority to every
score of ruffians to concert their own plans, make their own
attacks, and murder without regard to age, sex, or condition, may
prolong it to an almost indefinite period, unless a new degree of
energy shall be infused into the American forces.
But it requires no extraordinary gift of prophecy to foretell the
consequences that are inevitably to result they can be none
other than the subjugation of the country. Mexico is already by
the hand of fate blotted out of the list ok nations. The lamp
which lit up the brief hour of her independence is burnt down to
the socket ; and whether " annexed " to this Union or not, torn
and divided by intestine commotions, she can never withstand
the shock which will not only depose her military despots, but
IN MEXICO. 117
arouse her people from the Rip Van Winkle slumber of their ig
norance. He who thinks that a lasting and beneficial peace can
be made with that country, knows little of Mexico, or of her peo
ple he starts in his belief from false premises and judges of
a race by the ordinary rules which govern mankind when it is
notorious that they have ceased to regard all such rules, and have
hurled at them utter defiance.
The growing greatness and energy of the Anglo-Saxon race,
which is destined speedily to overrun the whole of North Ameri
ca, will soon occcupy the vast tierre tempalades of Mexico. And
they will carry liberty with them not in name, but in fact
and the influence of their example will impart a tone of vigor to
the efforts even of the humblest individual. They will give con
fidence to thought, and energy to action. This is by no means a
visionary speculation, but will be realized, as in the natural course
of events things assume the shape of realities ; and before ten
years shall transpire, steam cars, which would be regarded by the
present population with as much wonder as was the thundering
artillery of Cortez by the natives, will take the place of their car
avans of pack-mules ; and " Yankee clock pedlars," instead of
guerrilla bands, will throng the mountain paths of the Cordilleras.
Our people will have seen its resources, and there can be no re
straint placed upon their enterprise.
Under the control of the United States, or the Anglo-Saxon,
and in the full enjoyment of liberty and security, its extended
plains, which now repose in peace, would stretch out before the
eye like gardens magnified immeasurably. The loneliness of the
vast forest, consecrated for ages to solitude and God, would echo
the voices of new and more ardent admirers of their never-dying
foliage. Its cities would swarm with active arid industrious New
England mechanics, the music of whose implements would wake
the slumbering energies even of the dull and plethoric peon. A
canal, connecting the two great oceans, would stretch across the
isthmus of Tehuantepec, concentrating within the Northern hem
isphere the commerce of the globe. Through the huge and
rugged mountains, that rise up like stepping-stones to heaven,
railroad cars would roll with the lightning's speed, the rich treas
ures of the land to the lap of trade. And as the soul of the
sunny clime became steeped in sublime thought, which the bound
less and magnified variety of its natural scenery is fitted to call
into being when the heart is entirely imbued with the influence
of republican institutions, and when the mind of this land, springing
from its new myriad sources, shall grow up from its present night
of infancy to manhood, glowing with an ardent perception of the
unrivalled beauties of the clime, it will burn on, bright and un-
wasting, forever !
10
'..'!; if. J*
APPENDIX,
ALL people, whatever their condition, seem to require amusement and
recreation of some kind, and it is too often the case, in the selection of
subjects to gratify this natural desire, that the passions, more than the under
standing, are appealed to. Especially in our own land of self-government,
where pleasure and public virtue are commensurate with cultivated taste
and intelligence, should we seek to combine instruction with amusement, in
our public entertainments. And few will undertake to dispute the salutary
influence exercised by a familiarity with meritorious works of art, in
chastening the understanding and purifying the sentiment. No system of
education is commendable that does not combine the development of cor
rect taste that does not impart a just conception of the true, the beauti
ful and the real, in nature and art, and thereby exalt our perceptions of
excellence fit us for the appreciation of the inexhaustible stores of de
light and enjoyment that creation in her prodigality has thrown around us.
Persuaded by this conviction, and that while useful to himself, he might
be in strumental inpromoting intelligence, and the consequent happiness of
others, the author of the preceding pages, determined to illustrate such
events, and delineate such points as have been rendered interesting to
the public from the exciting circumstances that transpired during the
recent war with Mexieo. Of the causes of that war, now happily termi
nated, its expediency, 'justice or injustice, he has nothing to remark.
Which party was the aggressor, the pedants of diplomacy may decide.
Nor ha A it been so much his object to portray either the glories or horrors
of conflict, as to preserve the views of the battle-grounds, delineate the
geographical resources of the country, its natural scenery, architecture,
and diversified botany. The lines pursued by the two chief divisions of
the American Army have been chosen for representation, because the
reminiscences connected with those regions impart to them a greater de
gree of interest than other places, known to us, perhaps, only by their
almost unpronounceable names. These, however, comprise only about
two-thirds of the painting ; the other views being located on the route
pursued by the author and his companions, an account of whose captivity
and adventures is contained in the foregoing pages.
The natural scenery of Mexico abounds in all the gorgeousness the
most poetic imagination could conceive ; which, with the memory of the
118
APPENDIX. 119
many strange deeds of renown, marking both her ancient and modern
history, have thrown around her borders a charm more dreamy and indis
tinct than those which cluster about the classic vales of the olden world.
Upon both lands has the Creator lavished the indelible imprints of beauty ;
yet while poetry and historic association have consecrated the memory
of the one, they have left but faint and glimmering traces of light upon
the other. There is a strange coincidence in the almost simultaneous
opening to the nations of the earth, the China of the old world and that
of the new. Until recently our knowledge, not only of the original half-
civilized proprietors of the soil, but even of the more modern race of Mex
ico, has been vague and unsatisfactory. Not till the traditions of the for
mer were to be realized by the latter, were our people permitted to tread
upon a land, whose whole history abounds in the wildest romance of heroic
achievement. Still paler faces have gone from the north and conquered
the conquerors of the Montezumas. Almost the same route trod by the
Spanish cavalier three centuries since, as a superior being, sent from a
better sphere, has been retraced by the Anglo-Saxon ; and whether it
ultimately prove for the interest of mankind or not, manifest destiny
seems suddenly to have brought us in direct collision and more familiar
communication with a people to whom we have been comparative stran
gers.
These considerations could not fail to suggest the interest with which
a painting, presenting the bold and beautiful features of a land so little
known, would be received by the public. The proprietor has often re
gretted that he did not commence his sketches before reaching Zacate-
cas, as the reader will find described in the foregoing work several
points, the representation of which would have added additional interest
to the panorama. But in the hopeless capacity of a captive, his thoughts
were otherwise occupied, until severe suffering had taught him something
of practical philosophy. Besides, any considerable addition to the already
extensive painting, would have precluded the possibility of exhibiting the
whole during one evening. As a work of art, it does not here become
the proprietor to speak of this production. In that respect, he leaves the
painting to tell its own story ; yet, lest he should appear ungrateful, he
is candid to confess that its flattering reception, both by the press and the
public, has been a source of pride to him.
As the circumstances under which it was produced may not be wholly
uninteresting to the reader, the following articles relative to the personal
histor}' and adventures of the proprietor are subjoined. Immediately on
his return to the United States, after an absence of over fourteen months,
seven of which were spent in captivity, the fact was communicated by a
friend to the editor of the " New Orleans Delta," in which paper of June
12th, 1847, the following editorial article appeared :
120 APPENDIX.
44 AN AMERICAN EDITOR SOLD TO THE MEXICANS."
"That editors are often bought and sold, in these days of accomplish
ed political profligacy and intrigue, few persons possessing common
sagacity, will undertake to dispute. The price we presume varies in
accordance with the influence and position of the particular journal sought
to be subsidized from " fifty-two thousand " down to a " mess of pot
ash." Uninitiated as we of course are, in the Free Masonry of politics,
the process of negotiation is Greek to us. We feel inclined however to
accord to the age sufficient refinement to impart to such transactions
an air above the dull commerce of mere business To say, " what's
your price ?" would be a barbarous vulgarism, fit only for the Turk who is
permitted to deal in the transparent flesh of the Circassian maiden, or the
senorita of Mexico. Among the wire pullers of politics there is a nicer
perception of politeness assuming relationship to the timid shyness which
characterizes the courtship of our early days ; and we infer that advances
are made something in this wise :
" A friend of the Administration, near the expiration of the ' one
term,' for which its chief came into power, disinterested in his devotions
to the ' principles of the constitution, ' but who rather than behold the
republican system subverted, might be induced to accept a foreign mis
sion, more to 4 carry out the principles of the government,' than in con
sideration of the nine thousand dollars outfit, calls at the sanctum of the
editor of the ' Independent Republican.' After being seated, and the
usual compliments are exchanged, the special, yet disinterested agent of
the administration, should he see his way clear, will perhaps throw out a
feeler, before even intimating the slightest disposition to pocket a receipted
bill for his last year's subscription. ' Really, my dear sir, you must par
don me, but I cannot forego an acknowledgment of the exquisite pleasure
your Series of Articles entitled the 4 Independence of the Press,' have
afforded me. My admiration for a bold and untrammelled spirit is un
bounded, especially when developed in those who wield that great lever
of liberty, the public press. And your sentiments are so akin to my own
so closely do they approximate the great land-marks of our party, that
were I capable of infusing in my composition a tythe of your perspicuity,
I should have thought I had written them myself.'
" The editor replies :
" Your favorable consideration of my abilities is certainly gratifying,
sir, though believe me, when 1 assure you that one of my chief studies
has been to establish for my paper, a character independent of either and
all parties as well as sects."
14 And indeed you have succeeded admirably in your determination,
for under your control, the Republican has acquired a reputation enjoyed
APPENDIX. 121
by few of its cotemporaries. But then in this world of life and business,
one's influence fails to be properly appreciated in your apparently iso
lated position. As the acknowledged organ of a powerful party with the
most flattering prospect of retaining its ascendancy, your usefulness
would be unbounded your productions would be felt, where they are
now only admired. Besides, such an acquisition to our cause, would
carry dismay into the ranks of our adversaries, and in consideration of
the unimportant sacrifice of what you deem an independent position, but
which would really afford you facility in giving force to your views, the
patronage of the government would at once be transferred to the 4 Re
publican,' as the most desirable channel through which the friends of the
administration might be kept advised of the conduct of their public
servants.'
" The last argument proves conclusively irresistible, and the editor of
the " Republican " in examining his conscientiousness, finds that he
differs with the administration only in non-essentials in which Jeffer
son himself recommends freedom, so he runs up the banner,and his advent
into the Babylon of party strife is hailed as ' another tremendous dem
onstration ' in favor of the principles of the party which has purchased
him.
" Being sold editorially and being sold as an editor, are, however, two
different things. A day or two since, a good looking typo who belonged
to the 1st Indiana Regiment-, related to us the following incident. Some
time ago, last summer we believe, Capt. Corydon Donnavan, who lately
arrived in New Orleans, the former editor of the Cincinnati Daily Mes
sage, and more recently of the Wabash Standard, published in Lafayette,
la., was clerking it on a steamer on the Rio Grande. One day, while
the boat was taking in wood, our editor with a couple of friends went on
shore for the purpose of shooting armadilloes, or any other IVfexican
game that they might meet with, when but a short distance from the
boat, they were surrounded and captured by some thirty armed Mexicans.
One of these fellows who could speak a little English, found out that the
unfortunate editor was a printer by profession, and he immediately
secured him as a precious prize. Knowing his value, he set a price upon
his head, and he was finally knocked down for the sum of $950.00.'
Good heavens ! that an editor should be sold so low. The poor fellow
was marched off to Valladolid, the capital of Michoacan, and sent into a
Mexican printing office in that lovely city, to set up villainous Mexican
type. After working some time, he succeeded in making his escape, and
after the battle of Cerro Gordo, he managed to fall in with the army of
Gen. Scott, where he was quite at home. Who will have the temerity
to say after this, that editors are not bought and sold ? "
10*
122 APPENDIX.
The following brief sketch is copied from the " Yankee Blade," it
having been compiled by the editor, and published in a recent number
of that paper.
" A new era seems to have arisen in public and popular amusements :
or at least an extraordinary revival among panoramic paintings has taken
place. Since the exhibition of Catherwood's great work, some fifteen
years ago, panoramas had become rather an obsolete idea, until Ban-
vard produced his beautiful geographical picture of the Mississippi
river. His complete pecuniary success, no doubt, encouraged others to
engage in enterprises of a similar nature ; yet few, if any, have realized
like rewards, in the accumulation of either fame or fortune. No one
will pretend to dispute that exhibitions of this description tend to refine
the taste and elevate the intellectual standard that the study of any
work of art, possessing merit, has a happy influence while the extent
of patronage bestowed on pictures like these, in any community, is the
best criterion by which to judge of that community's cultivation. There
is something about their fascinating illusions, calculated at once to please
the eye and captivate the imagination ; and we should not be at all sur
prised did they eventually supercede the present mode of teaching geog
raphy, botany, geology, etc., in our public schools.
Right glad are we to hear of Capt. Donnavan's complete success,
which is attributable not altogether to the merit of his painting, trans-
cendently beautiful as it is acknowledged t to be, but to the pleasing
romance and thrilling interest associated with his Adventures in Mexico.
The public's insatiate appetite for the wild and almost incredible ro
mance in which real life so abounds, is to be gratified. The patient,
plodding life of an artist, who ekes out a dreamy existence in his lone
garret, is too tame to arrest the attention of a people rocked* into man
hood and maturity in the cradle of excitement a people whose earliest
memories are associated with stirring scenes, and whose own lives are
often a succession of the adventures so strongly marking the character
of the American people. To approve, without reserve, this idiosyn-
cracy of our countrymen, would be negatively to condemn modest and
patient merit. This we do not mean to ck> ; nor can we, at the same
time, conceal the gratification it affords us to see the indomitable spirit
of man struggle into success over the odds of adversity, and what the
more superstitious often call fate itself. It shows that in the very genius
of our institutions are garnered up the germs of distinction, which are
at the mercy of no hereditary entailment that there is no law of the
land to limit the exercise of the tact or talent vouchsafed to the humblest
.
CltJZen< ifiovMiUiv ort'C >P'I >if
Fifty years ago, what wild enthusiast would have conjectured that the
APPENDIX. 123
great valley of the Mississippi, besides feeding half' a world of men,
would so soon produce works of 'art, surpassing in stupendousness of
design and originality of conception, the efforts of puritan New England !
Yet it is even so. The " tables are being turned " upon the Yankees,
and the very men to whom in other days they sold their wooden clocks
and nutmegs, now retort upon us, in speculations which prove both in
structive and amusing.
The history of Mr. Banvard's struggles and final triumph, is known
almost the length and breadth of the land ; and about the time of his
departure to seek a wider field in an older world, a work similar in de
sign, but abounding in more grandeur, and in its execution a wilder
romance, comes before us as a candidate for popular favor, and is
already " winning golden opinions from all sorts of people." Like its
predecessor, it hails from the great West the broad plains of enter-
prize and industry beyond the blue ridge, which but yesterday, as it
were, was the boundary of an unexplored wilderness. We allude, of
course, to Capt. Donnavan's Great Serial Panorama of Mexico. Like
the man who has immortalized, in the poetry of painting, the " Great
Father of Waters," we find that Capt. Donnavan's career abounds in the
charm of romance, yet is filled with far bolder adventure. Fie is,
withal, a practical printer ; and what adventure is too wild or daring for
that strange, yet intelligent body of craftsmen, whose very duty is
knowledge, and whose daily task it is to make up a map of the busy
world ? It is the pride of those connected with the press in our country,
to feel, that with all the abuses that assail the tripod, the members of the
craft are often found foremost in honorable enterprize. Capt. Donnavan
has for several years been associated with the newspaper press of the
" Queen City," from the capacity of devil down to editor ; and before
writing his "Adventures in Mexico," which introduced him to a wider
circle of admirers a work, too, which has been pronounced by many
of the leading journals, the best incited by the Mexican war his rep
utation as an editor ranked deservedly high. He is truly and literally
a " travelled man " has not only " seen the elephant," but according
to u the book " become somewhat familiar with the entire Mexican
menagerie. His admirable painting, representing as it does, all the
points of interest through which himself and companions, as well as
the American army, passed, being now open in our city, and its exhibi
tion attracting peculiar interest among the public, a brief reference to
the personal history of the projector, as well as the circumstances under
which the work was produced, cannot fail to be welcomed by our read
ers. For our information in these particulars, we are indebted chiefly
to the western press.
124 APPENDIX.
[Prom the Cincinnati Daily Commercicil, July 7, 1847.]
CAPT. DONNA VAN'S RETURN.
A FEW days ago, to the gratification of his many friends, we had the
pleasure of announcing Capt. Donnavan's safe return to his home and
family, after an absence of over a year in Mexico. The fatigues of a
l9ng journey, as well as an interchange of social civilties and affections,
among friends and relatives, precluded at that time, but the bare state
ment of his arrival, without adverting to his many adventures. But the
first welcome greeting, after his long absence, having transpired, we
yesterday enjoyed a long conversation with him, relative to his capture,
perilous journey, sale, and final escape and return to the United States.
In times past, when Donnavan was an editorial contemporary of ours,
we took some liberties with each other, and occasionally indulged in a
good humored joke, frequently at our expense. But these things live
only in memory, which serves rather to strengthen our regard, than
.alienate our friendship. The Captain has many friends, not only in this
city, but throughout the entire West, where his ability as a pleasing and
graphic writer, has become rather proverbial. He is one of those men
that the " boys and girls run after," and we believe we have never in
our life known a really bad man to be liked and courted by the juve
niles. He reasons that he was a boy once himself, left fatherless and
destitute at an early age, and can consequently appreciate the courtesies
of those who smiled upon his adverse pathway, and in all of which
there is a great deal of truth as well as genuine poetry.
The Captain is a native Buckeye, that is, having been first introduced
to this sublunary sphere in our own great state of Ohio. We first knew
him in 1837, as a practical printer, setting out from this city to seek
his fortune in the " sunny South." A few years afterwards, at the age
of twenty-one-, we found him, at the head of a leading political paper in
the neighboring State of Indiana, and shortly afterwards a member of
its legislature. Again, about the time we commenced our own editorial
career in the Queen city, we met him as a contemporary, he having
purchased and assumed the editorial charge of the u Daily Morning
Message," an independent paper, established by William D. Gallagher,
one of the present editors of the u Gazette." It was here that his in
dustry and talent soon won him a high reputation as an editor, and in
which position he continued till a short time previous to the commence
ment of hostilities with Mexico. He held the commission of Captain in
the great " standing arrny " of Mr. Van Buren, signed, sealed and deliv
ered by Gov. Corwin, Commander-in-chief of the Ohio militia, and still
retains his belligerent title, though always peaceably disposed.
APPENDIX. 125
Like most, or at least many men, who embark in newspaper specula
tions, his labors were rewarded more by empty honors, than by those
pecuniary realities which are requisite to keep body and soul together ;
and being naturally impulsive, and stimulated by a desire to accumulate
fortune more speedily, upon the receipt of the news of the first battles,
he hastened to the seat of war on the Rio Grande, In the capacity of
manager of a steamer, engaged in transporting troops, and munitions of
war, from Brazos to Camargo, he was fast realizing his golden anticipa
tions, when an unexpected surprise made himself and two intimate com
panions prisoners, at the mercy of a band of guerillas, ten times their
number, headed by the notorious Canalles. Those who have any knowl
edge of the barbarous manner in which American prisoners are dealt
with in Mexico, can best depict in imagination the perilous situation of
this small and defenceless party. Thrice were they condemned to be
executed as common felons ; but, as if through some providential inter
vention, they were as often spared a death so cruel. From near Ca
margo, they were hurried across the Sierra Madre to Zacatecas, without
any positive knowledge of their fate or destination. Here, through the
interposition of a number of American and English citizens, they were
temporarily released : but only, as they soon found, to be recaptured,
together with those who had so magnanimously endeavored to rescue
them. The entire party was then conducted by an efficient guard over
the mountains and deserts, through the cities of San Luis, Guanajuato,
and Queretaro, to Valladolid, performing the journey chiefly on foot. At
the latter place, Capt. Donnavan and one of his associates, Mr. Cunning
ham, who was also a practical printer, were sold like cattle in the mar
ket, and forced into involuntary servitude in a Mexican printing office.
Of all these wrongs, none of their countrymen could be made cogni
zant. No word of condolence from anxious friends could reach them,
for the " secrets of their prison house were unrevealed." Months passed
away, and no intelligence came home by which to trace the fate of the
captives. A year transpired, and Donnavan was considered as good as
dead ; when, all at once, he turned up suddenly, good-looking as ever,
but his clothes rather the worse for wear. ttflpirrnff T IfNWKFP-'
The Captain informs us that he made his esca'pe alone, in the night.
After a perilous journey of several days, performed on foot, he reached
the city of Mexico, from which point he reached Vera Cruz without dif
ficulty, and sailed for New Orleans about a month ago. In his travels, he
has acquired much knowledge of the people, and a region of country
little known to any of us, the publicity of which, taken in connectiou
with the incidents of his own captivity and adventures, could not fail to
be of thrilling interest to the public. In fact, he owes it not only lo
126 APPENDIX.
himself and friends, but to the world, to publish a detailed narrative of
" all of which he saw, and part of which he was."
The following notice of the Panorama is copied from the " Cincinnati
Gazette," as one among many others equally complimentary, but with
more of which it is deemed unnecessary to crowd the present work :
CAPT. DONNAVAN'S PANORAMA. There are two individuals insepar
ably connected with the history of the Mexican campaign, whose names
bear a striking resemblance, Col. Doniphan, and Capt. Donnavan.
Both have gone through dangers and " hair-breadth escapes," and suf
fered all manner of hardships ; both dearly paid for the privilege of
" seeing the elephant," studying his natural history, and getting the run
of his tricks ; both have written histories of their adventures ; but there
is one thing in which our old typo friend, the Captain, leaves the gallant
Colonel completely in shadow : he has illustrated the brilliant achieve
ments of our army in Mexico, with a magnificent Panorama, and retires
from the campaign with his colors still flying.
Besides his own time, the Captain has employed that of three distin
guished artists, during the past eight months, on this stupendous produc
tion, and he leaves in a few days for the purpose of exhibiting it to the
people of the eastern cities. Our friends there will find it eminently
worthy of their attention. To the members of the press and the public,
we commend Capt. Donnavan as a gentlemanly fellow-craftsman, an
eccentric natural genius, and altogether an extraordinary man, who has
displayed much energy and enterprise in getting up this work. He de
scribes it in a manner which adds much to the interest of its exhibition.
The painting has been very successful here, and, as its accuracy is
vouched by many officers and privates who have returned from service
in the lines of both Gen. Taylor and Gen. Scott, we anticipate like suc
cess for it wherever it may be exhibited.
LETTER FROM MR. CUNNINGHAM.
The following extracts from a letter received by the author last
spring, from his old companion, may not prove unacceptable to the
reader. Surely the " perquisites " to which he alludes, a sum amount
ing to about $150,000, could not have been totally so to him.
NEW ORLEANS, March 18, 1848.
CAPT. DONNAVAN : You will doubtless be even more suprised on the
receipt of this than was I after perusing your " Adventures," a copy of
which I obtained here the day after my arrival. " McGreggor 's on his
APPENDIX. 127
native heath again," But first permit me to congratulate you on your
propitious return to family and friends. Not only do I voluntarily hasten
to excuse my conduct, previous to your " unceremonious elopement,"
and to which I observe you have made a significant allusion, but at the
same time to crave a thousand pardons. Impotence will cling around
our selfish natures, and the truth is, I found my heart too narrow to
divide its affections. * * * Various conjectures were indulged, in
regard to your probable fate after your precipitous flight, and our mutual
friend Buffam was outrageously indignant ; though his exaggerated vocif
erations met with little sympathy, and he soon cooled down to his native
element of " masterly inactivity."
I have been over a week in New Orleans. With what a thrill of joy
I tread again my native shores, you and those only who have passed
through like perils, can appreciate. You are aware that my bondage
was virtually broken before your departure, but it was soon cemented
in another and far more agreeable one. You can infer my meaning.
Mrs. Cunningham and our two little dark-eyed twin daughters are of
course with me, affording almost as much curiosity as we did on our
debut in Valladolicl. * * *
I wish to hear from you often, and we both join in hoping to see you
soon. My residence will be in future near Kosciusko, Miss., that is if
my tropical flowers will bear transplanting in so ungenial a clime. Mrs.
C. is by no means favorably impressed with the peculiarities of the
" Americanos " generally, and should she desire to return to her mountain
home, it will afford me pleasure, much as I love my native land ,and its
institutions, to sacrifice them for an affection which, without its perqui
sites, combining all the elements of wealth and ease, would make me
one of the happiest of men. How immeasurably little do we know of
this world's future ! The very spot where misery and degradation
seemed ready to spend their fury on our temporal lives, to me has been
changed to a paradise, and its associations cling around me, consecrated
to the memory of all I care to live for.
F. R. CUNNINGHAM.
THE PANORAMA.
NOTE. Wherever cities or points represented on the Panorama have been fully de
scribed in the body of this work, a recapitulative description has been deemed unneces
sary, reference being made to the preceding pages.
PART FIRST.
CORPUS CHRISTI, an unimportant place with a few buildings, known
a number of years as the residence of Col. Kinney, a Texan pioneer
located on Aranzas Bay, a peninsula of flat shell beach, and from
which the Army of Occupation took up its line of march for the Rio
Grande, March llth, 1846, as represented on the canvass.
ARAGO COLORADO, a small river, the banks of which are lined with
chaperal, a dwarfish copse of thorny vegetation, matted with vines
and prickly pear ; the point where General Taylor's progress was
first disputed by the enemy.
POINT ISABEL, located on an arm of the Gulf called Brazos Santiago,
a distance of twenty-five miles from the city of Matamoras, and where
General Taylor took up his encampment on the 24th of March, 1846.
BATTLE OF PALO ALTO, first regular engagement with the Mexicans,
after the commencement of the war, on the 8th of May, 1846. The
battle-ground is located on a broad prairie, the grass of which is rep
resented on fire, during the evening of the engagement; one of the
most grand and imposing views that can possibly be transferred to
canvass.
RESACA DE LA PALMA. This view is represented the-night after the
battle, by moonlight, with the tents, camp-fires, stacks of arms; Gen!
Taylor, Maj. Bliss, and Capt. May in the foreground.
THE CITY OF MATAMORAS. The view is at sunrise, an hour, the
transcendent gorgeousness of which is so well known in Mexico. The
city is among the most important in northern Mexico, containing a
population of about 10,000. Before approaching Fort Brown, located
on the bank of the Rio Grande, nearly opposite the city, is represented
a family of the Cacti, the specimens of which grow to a height often
of thirty feet, remarkable for the beauty of its flowers.
REYNOSA. This is a small place unknown except as a military point.
THE Rio GRANDE, as seen between Matamoras and Camargo, is a
stream whose general course is exceedingly straight, but whose sud-
128
THE PANORAMA.
den turns and windings are still more remarkable. It is among the
longest rivers in the world, from the rnouth to the source being over
1800 miles. For a full description, the reader is referred to the first
part of the preceding work.
CAMARGO, about three miles from the confluence of the San Juan
with the Rio Grande, and the point near which the author was cap
tured, containing a population of about 3000. For a description of
which, see Chapter I.
MARIN, on the road leading to Monterey, celebrated as the former
residence of Canalles, the great robber chief. The town is located in
a gorge of the mountains ; painted from a view by Capt. Whiting,
of the United States Army.
BISHOP'S PALACE, near the city of Monterey, represented as being
stormed by the American forces.
CITY OF MONTEREY, signifying city of the hills, in the very midst
of which it is located, and capital of the province of New Leon, has a
population of 7000 one of the most beautiful cities in northern
Mexico, and celebrated as the place where Gen. Santa Anna received
his military education. In the suburbs of the city, are represented
the residence and gardens of Gen. Arista, the place where Gen.
Taylor first consented to become " the candidate of the people," for
the Presidency of the United States.
VALLEY OF SAN JUAN, a delightfully cultivated region, as seen from
the heights in the vicinity of Monterey, looking towards Saltillo,
where flourish the sugar-cane, cotton, tobacco, the orange, pine-apple,
palm, plantain, and all the tropical fruits.
MEXICAN HACIENDA, containing two hundred thousand acres of
ground, with all its characteristics, habitations, cultivated fields, hedge
fences, &c.
CITY OF SALTILLO, located on the side hill as the name signifies,form-
erly the capital of Coahuila, with a population of 12,000, remarkable
for the beauty of its churches and cathedrals.
BATTLE OF BUENA VISTA. Six miles from the city of Saltillo, is
represented the great battle where Gen. Taylor made the last master
stroke in his successful military campaign. With 4,500 men, chiefly
volunteers, it will be remembered, that he here met and defeated
about 20,000, the flower of the Mexican army, under Gen. Santa
Anna. The position of the two armies is represented on the second
day of the engagement, the 23d of February, 1847. The American
loss was estimated at 264, that of the enemy 2000.
CITY OF ZACATECAS. A delightful city, occupying a mountain loca
tion, and represented as seen from the garden of Andalusia, in the
vicinity. For a full description, see Chap. VII.
11
130 THE PANORAMA.
A MEXICAN RANCH, the kind of residence occupied by much the
larger portion of the population.
SAN Luis POTOSI. This place is fully described on p. 66. In its
vicinity is also represented the manner in which the Mexicans re
cruit their army.
' CITY OF GUANAJUATO. A magnificent view of the entrance to this
wealthy city is represented, painted from a sketch presented to the
author by Mr. Kendall, editor of the New Orleans Picayune. A
detailed description of the place may be seen on reference to page 68.
THE TABLE LANDS. That the spectator may obtain a far more ade
quate idea of the table lands, than can possibly be acquired from
either books or oral description, extensive plains, both cultivated and
arid are represented fields of corn, wheat, aloe and the nopal, and
broad sterile regions, where owing to the etherial state of the atmos
phere, the eye may rest on a perspective more than twice the extent
it can in any portion of our own country.
CITY OF YAQUI. This Indian or Aztec city, a description of which
will be found at length in the preceding pages, is remarkable for its
antiquity and peculiar architecture. See chap. V.
CITY OF QUERETARO. This city, celebrated for the beauty and
uniformity of its architecture, and for the indolence of its inhabitants,
is the place to which the Mexican Congress fled upon the subjuga
tion of their capital by the army under General Scott. It is described
on page 68.
VALLADOLID. This city, so familiar to the author, is represented
by a moonlight view, having paused after his escape to " make a note
of it."
*>;. T' .s')J !.)!.! b*>jii7{ju;..> ^ .:> ->'j;i.s- ';? .fcfi^n ,' .:>;' t ifiM il
PART SECOND.
CITY OF TAMPICO, near the mouth of the Paunco river one
of the most important commercial points of Mexico, and numbering
a population nearly as large as Vera Cruz. Taken possession of in the
early history of the war by Mrs. Chase, lady of the American Consul,
who, by her heroic daring, frightened the entire population into an
unconditional surrender.
ISLAND OF LOBOS, signifying Wolf or Seal Island, a charming spot,
formed chiefly of coral, covered with Banyan trees, and the place
where Gen. Scott concentrated his forces previous to the attack on
Vera Cruz.
HARBOR OF VERA CRUZ. Approaching the harbor the fleet of Com
modore 4 Connor is to be seen, and the landing of Gen. Scott's forces,
consisting of about 11,000 men, near the city, on the 9th of March,
1847, in iron surf-boats, constructed lor the especial purpose.
THE PANORAMA. 131
CITY OF YERA CRUZ, extending along the beach three miles, with
the great Castle of San Juan de Ulloa. The population of the city
is estimated at from 8000 to 10,000 its streets are wide and spa
cious, some of them well paved with stone shipped from Quincy,
Mass.
NATIONAL BRIDGE, usually called " Puente Nacional," built by the
old Spanish government, and one of the firmest as well as most durable
structures of the kind in America. The bridge is thrown across the
Antigua river, a small mountain stream, is nearly half a mile in
length, constructed of small stones, cemented together, the masonry
covered with a uniform coat of marble cement, and forming altogether
the strongest point of defence on the line of the National road, leading
from Vera Cruz to the city of Mexico.
fc CERRO GORDO. The abrupt and imposing heights of Cerro Gordo,
present a striking contrast to the low lands of the coast, and the spec
tator is again introduced to the mountain regions, in which Mexicp
so abounds. The storming of this strong defence by the American
forces, as represented on the canvass, took place April 18, 1847.
The American loss on this occasion was estimated at 250, that of the
enemy, 350, while according to his official reports, Gen. Scott took
3000 prisoners, forty pieces of artillery, and 5000 stand of small
arms.
CITY OF jALAPA,the most delightful place, in fact the El Dorado of
Mexico, its vicinity abounding in all the fruits peculiar to the tropics.
For further description, see p. 101.
ORIZABA. The view of this volcano, called by the ancient popula
tion of Mexico, Citlalteptl, (signifying star-mountain,) is, as seen from
Los Viegas, the highest point on the National road, the mountain or
volcano being some thirty miles distant. It rises according to the
measurement of Huinboldt, 17,368 feet in height, the summit being
covered with perpetual snow, is visible a great distance after leaving
Vera Cruz in the Gulf. It is the last point of land to be seen in
Mexico, after leaving the harbor of Vera Cruz.
PEROTE. The town of Perote, Coffre and Castle of the same name
by moonlight. For description, the reader is referred to p. 100.
CITY OF PUEBLA. The view of this beautiful city, capital of the
same province, is represented as seen from Fort Loretto, on an emi
nence occupied by the American forces during the war. The great
volcanoes of Popocatepetl and Iztaccihuatl with their summits of per
ual snow, are to be seen in the distance, towering above the clouds.
For a further description of the city, see p. 98.
PYRAMID OF CHOLULA. This pyramid is certainly among the
most interesting antiquities of our continent, surrounded as it was, in
the days of the Conquest, by the city of the same name, which was
132
THE PANORAMA.
.
the religious capital of the Aztec race, and to which the people made
pilgrimages as did the Mahomedans to Mecca.
Rio FRIO, a mountain pass and beautiful valley. In the valley of
Rio Frio, signifying cold river, is located the village of Cordova, cele
brated as a favorite resort of robbers and guerrillas.
CASTLE OF CHAPULTEPEC. The hill of Chapultepec, signifying grass
hopper hill, is located about two miles west of the city of Mexico, to a
view of which the spectator is transported, before entering the city. It is
naturally well fortified, the bluff being steep and formed of porphyritic
rock. The Castle, constructed by the young viceroy Galvez, nearly
two centuries ago, occupies the summit, is 600 feet in length, and 40
feet high. It has been long occupied as a military academy. It is
the real sight of the much talked of " Halls of the Montezumas," for
it was here that Montezuma had his palace. In its vicinity, were
located the beautiful gardens ef the aboriginal emperor, and here we
may even yet trace the indistinct remnants of the magnificence by
which the monarch was surrounded. The Castle is represented dur
ing the siege or bombardment by the American troops, which took
place September 12th, 1847.
CITY OF MEXICO. Perhaps no city in the world offers a more
striking and beautiful panoramic view, than Mexico. Located in lat
itude 19 north, where fires are unknown, except for culinary pur
poses, the warm mellowness of a tropical atmosphere, throws over
the scene a fairy -like delusion ; while the calm, glassy lakes, encir
cled by the high ridge of mountains which surrounds the valley,
groves of the orange and cypress, acqueducts, statuary, and forests
of church spires, impart a general gorgeousness, unsurpassed in the
wide world. The view of the city, as seen on the Panorama, was
taken from the dome of the great cathedral, which occupies the pre
cise spot where stood the ancient temple of the sun, and the specta
tor is supposed to be looking down upon the scene. The public
Hospital erected by Cortez, an institution which has continued to
dispense blessings amid all the wreck and ruin of revolution ; the
Palacio, or palace of the viceroys ; the Cara de Stado, the residence
of Cortez ; the Franciscan convent ; the University, founded in
1551, as well as all the public buildings, the Alamada or park, the
principal streets, etc., are represented, and on the last side of the
Grand Plaza, after the spectator enters that magnificent square, is a
front view of the great cathedral. For a detailed description of
the city, the reader is referred to the foregoing work page 89.
jg^ 04 A most pleasing feature of the panorama, is its representation
of the rich and varied botany of the tropics. Among the numerous
specimens, introduced at appropriate places, may be mentioned the
palm, cabbage, cypress, cedar, cocoanut, ebony, banyan, calabash,
orange and pandanus trees ; the aloe, yucca, cycas, banana, pine
apple, cactus, sugar-cane, cotton, tobacco, nopal, cereus, jalap, va
nilla, ponisettia, drummond phlox, with their fruits, flowers, etc.