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'//- CP o .^•lOSANCElfjy. o %a3AiNn]v\v A;;^iLIBRARYQ/^ ^^^l•LIBRARYQc ^Oiimi^"^ ^oiimi^"^ ^WEUNIVER% '' ^TiiJONVSOl^'^ '%a3AINn]WV^ -^flOJIlVDJO^ OFCALIFO% Awagii-^^ "^(JAaviiaiH^ ^\\E■UNIVER% o v>;lOSANCElfXy. o '^Aa3AiNn3WV ^OFCALIFOfiU;^ ^ ^, vS;lOSANCElfj> %a3AINll3\\V ^^^ILIBRARYOr ^IIIBRARYO/:^ '^.!/0JllV3-J0'^ ^ o %a3AINn3UV ^^KmOJf4^y ,>i,OFCAilFO% . ^WE UNIVERi"//, v: vr ^^AwaaniN^ ^ o "^/mMNdivW ^OFCALIFO% y^lHVMflll-l^ ^ TOWNS of NEW ENGLAND AND (0lti Cnglantr IRELAND and SCOTLAND Tart II ///? >. ^ 6^3 O ^' i-i ^^if- :>:,._ „ luuUi to ntfrr tu 111?,.— .^^ ^M-,.. n 1 •i(i!H( . ! ._ ;m,^ ,,-'•! 'VM-l l=,l.,. H,,^ s<-. i:. ,- lUi .-■[(<•, tl.r an.rfH^uu' '^ of iL 'flui .nu-" I.,;.-,. CMuu-ruvn. -vPw..^ tIh-,,, J.- iLvV. CViMfl-nj •'t'lSi' unit c{ ijCH'i A^ii-ii-i-- iiun| iy -V,fc,U., 'Plufu.u/ j '' ya^ffz^-i^^ , ,_ Photographed by George B. Brayton Kindness Hon. Andre^v J. Peters, Mayor of Boston, Massachusetts, and E. F. B. Parke, Esq. MESSAGE FROM THE MAYOR OF BOSTON, ENGLAND, TO THE MAYOR OF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS It was enclosed in the box shown in another illustration. 21 BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS I need hardly say that the Mother regards not only with no envy but with honest pride of all right minded parents the far greater progress which the daughter across the Atlantic has made and is likely to make ... I have the honour to remain Your faithful and obliged servant, G. B. Blenkin, Vicar of Boston.'' Soon after the sending of the box to City Hall our Public Library received a valuable present from St. Botolph's Town, which was presented by Alfred J. Ogston, Esq., acting British Consul in Boston, and which was received on behalf of this city, by Hon. Andrew J. Peters, our Mayor. Hon. George W. Coleman, President of the City Council in 1915, and a member of the Council in 19 14 and 1916, made a visit to the old town in 19 18 and while walking along the river he noticed part of an ancient oaken balustrade that once stood in the Court Room of the old Guildhall before which some of the Pilgrim Fathers, among whom was Elder William Brewster, had appeared as prisoners in 1607. The association of this relic with our city is even more closely brought home to us when it is realized that Richard Bellingham, Governor of the Massachusetts Bay Colony, held the posi- tion of Recorder of the city of old Boston, doubtless passing by the railing many times a day during his routine of business. Mr, Coleman suggested to Hon. A. Cooke Yarborough, Mayor of old Boston, that it would be a very fitting thing if his town could send the rail, which was then being used as a back-yard fence along the river bank, to the daughter across the Atlantic and it arrived in May of the following year and is now one of the most interesting relics owned by the Library, standing on the Huntington Avenue side of the delivery room of the central office at Copley Square, the inscription on it reading: — Before this railing, once part of the dock in the Guildhall of Boston, Lincolnshire, stood on trial in 1607 some of the Pilgrim Fathers The gift of the City of Boston, England, 1919. Mr. Ogston in presenting it said in part : — "I have the pleasure, your Honour, of requesting your acceptance of this ancient railing, as a token of the kindly and cordial feeling entertained by the City of Boston in England for the City of Boston in New England, and emblematic of the feeling of love and esteem which exists between the two nations." 22 BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS Photographed by George B. Brayton Kindness Charles F. Belden, Esq., and Otto Fleischner, Esq. SECTION OF RAILING FROM THE GUILD- HALL, BOSTON, ENGLAND, once part of the dock in the Guildhall, before which some of the Pilgrim Fathers were tried, now an in- teresting relic in the Boston Pubhc Library, Boston, Massachusetts. This ancient railing was dis- covered by Hon. George W. Coleman, of our city, on a visit to the mother town, and given to our Library by Hon. A. Cooke Yarborough, Mayor of old Boston. The presentation, which took place on May 29, 1919, was made by Alfred J. Ogston, Esq., acting British Consul in Boston, and the relic ac- cepted for our City by its Mayor, Hon. Andrew J. Peters. Mayor Peters during his address made the following remarks: — ''Standing here it will serve as a Unk between the old days and the new, mutely teaching the great virtue of reverence to our children. It will furnish a fresh bond of attachment between ourselves and the people of Boston in Lincolnshire. As Mayor of the younger City bearing that honored name, I send back sympathetic greetings and warm appreciation to our kindred across the ocean who have been inspired to this act of gracious courtesy." The First Church in Boston, on the corner of Berkeley and Marlborough Streets, contains so many tablets of in- terest that they form almost a history in themselves of the early days of the Colony. The chief memorial is a re- cumbent statue of John Cotton which was erected to his memory by his de- scendants and which was unveiled in 1907. The inscription records his birth in Derbyshire, England, in 1585, and his death in the Colony of Massachusetts Bay in 1652; it also mentions that he was a fellow of Emmanuel College, Cam- bridge, in 1607, that he was Vicar of the Church of St. Botolph, Boston, Lincolnshire, from 16 12 to 1633, and that he was Teacher of the Boston Church from 1633 to 1652. The most interesting feature of this memorial is the stone pendant from the east portal of St. Botolph's Church, which now forms a part of the front of the pedestal upon which his statue rests. This stone, which can easily be identified in the accompanying cut, dates from the beginning of the fourteenth century and doubtless formed a part of the main en- trance during the time Cotton was Vicar. John Cotton's body rests in a big tomb, the First Church Vault, in King's Chapel Graveyard, but no other tablet in Boston commemorates his valuable work for the Colony. Rev. Paul Revere Frothingham, who is a descendant of John Cotton on his mother's side, made the address on the BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS 23 occasion of the dedication of this monument and during his address referred to Cotton's great power of application as a student, evi- denced by a four-hour sand glass which he turned over three times a day, whereby he figured his working hours. While on the subject of Vicar Cotton it may be interesting to mention that, a month after sail- ing, his fourth child was born on the Atlantic Ocean and the parents decided, therefore, to call him "Seaborn," presumably the suggestion having come from Stephen Hopkins, one of the Pil- grim Fathers, who thirteen years before had a son born on the out- ward voyage of the "Mayflower," whom he named "Oceanus." John Cotton's house stood on the upper part of the present site of the Suffolk Savings Bank. The people of Boston will always associate John Cotton with the old town in England from which he came, and they will appreciate him as much as the inhabitants of old Boston, who, it is said, beheved From a prim Kindntss Rev. Charles E. Park, Julius //. Tuttle, Esq., and Henry H. Edes , Esq. MEMORI.\L TO JOHN COTTON IN THE FIRST CHURCH, BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS On the pedestal can be seen an old stone pendant, dating from the fourteenth century, from the east portal of St. Botolph's Church, Boston, England, of which Cotton was Vicar for twenty-one years. Rev. Paul Revere Frothing- ham, a descendant of John Cotton on his mother's side, made an interesting address at the dedication. "The lantern of St. Botolph's ceased to burn When from the portals of that church he came To be a burning and a shining light Here in the wilderness." Another connecting link between the two Bostons has been made by the restora- tion of the chapel in St. Botolph's, now called Cotton Chapel, and by a memorial placed upon its walls to his memory, mainly through the Hberality of his American descendants. Here is recorded a Latin inscription of his hfe-work written by Hon. Edward Everett of our city, whose wife, by the way, was a descendant of John Cotton ; translated into EngHsh it reads as follows : — 24 BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS "That here John Cotton's memory may survive Where for so long he laboured when alive, In James' reign — and Charles's, ere it ceased, — A grave, skilled, learned, earnest parish priest; Till from the strife that tossed the Church of God He in a new world sought a new abode, To a new England — a new Boston — came, (That took to honour him that rev'rend name) Fed the first flock of Christ that gathered there — Till death deprived it of its Shepherd's care — There well resolved all doubts of minds perplext, Whether with cares of this world, or the next: Two centuries five lustra, from the year That saw the exile leave his labours here. His family, his townsmen, with delight — (Whom to the task their English kin invite) — To the fair fane he served so well of yore. His name, in two worlds honoured, thus restore, This chapel renovate, this tablet place. In this the year of man's recovered Grace. 1855" The restoration of the chapel was brought about chiefly through the help of three American citizens, George Peabody, Joshua Bates and Russell Sturgis, who were at that time living in London. They found that the chapel was being used as a lumber-room and that for some time the town fire-engine had been kept there. The corbels supporting the timber ceiling of Cotton Chapel are carved with the arms of early colonists of New England. The visitor to the First Church in our Boston will find tablets placed on its walls to John Winthrop, Thomas Dudley, Isaac Johnson and John Wilson, all founders of the church and all so well known that they need no description here. There are also other memorials to John Leverett, Sir Henry Vane, placed there by one of Vane's descendants in England, Thomas Oliver, Jeremiah Dummer, Ezekiel Cheever, John Davenport, Simon and Anne Bradstreet and Anne Hutchinson. Other tablets to distinguished citizens of this city were erected later to Edward Everett, the Emersons, Robert Treat Paine, John Quincy Adams, Rev. Nathaniel L. Erothingham and other persons too numerous to mention here. A doorway has also been erected in the church by the Colonial Society of Massachusetts to the memory of Governor Thomas Hutchinson "in grateful recognition of a long and distinguished career of public ser\nLce always guided by a conscientious desire to be loyal both to the Province and to the Crown." The only statue outside of the church is that of Governor John Winthrop and it is interesting to mention to our readers that a descendant of his now lives in the house directly opposite this Eirst Church. Dr. Charles E. Park, the present minister of this church, and Rev. A. G. Peaston, of the Spain Lane Unitarian Chapel of old Boston, carried on a correspondence in 191 5, and parts of their letters are here given: — BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS From a recent phot'/^ruph hy G. E. Hackford. Boston, England COTTON CHAPEL (FORMERLY CALLED FOUNDERS CHAPEL) IN ST. BOTOLPH'S CHURCH, BOSTON, ENGLAND, restored in 1855 chiefly through the help of three American citizens then living in London, George Peabody, Joshua Bates and Russell Sturgis. The memorial tablet to John Cotton, shown in another illustration, is in this Chapel. "To THE Minister and Members or THE First Church, Boston, Mass. U.S.xA.. Dear Brethren: The celebration of a century of peace between the U.S.A. and Gt. Britain, which we had hoped to commemorate suitably this month, affords us the agreeable privilege of greeting you with cordiality and affection. December 24th, 1814, will be ever memorable in this Country, not only for 'ringing in the hundred years of peace,' but as the inauguration of a sentiment of kinship, trust and good-will, which has gained strength steadily, and has made a suggestion of armed conflict between the two nations hterally unthinkable. A. G. Peaston, Minister, H. Barron Clark, President, F. KiME, Secretary." BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS 27 To which Mr, Park made a reply which we quote in part: — ^'To THE Minister and Congregation or the Spain Lane Unitarian Chapel, Boston, Lincolnshire, England. Dear Brethren: — Your cordial communication having been received and read in Congregation, we are directed by the First Church in Boston to address you in acknowledgment of your letter, and to assure you of the Uvely and heartfelt gratification which your friendhness has aroused in us. We share with you the pride and pleasure of the thought that one hundred years of unbroken peace have cemented the relations of these two countries in a union of ideals and an identity of sympathies, which we are emboldened to hope and believe, can never again be dissolved; and these feelings we believe to be by no means peculiar to us, but to be the common property of all true citizens of the United States of America. We are deeply conscious of the significance of this Centennial, standing, as it does, almost if not quite unique in history, as the symbol of the longest peace that has ever existed between two nations in such active and constant intercourse as ours; and giving the world a notable object lesson in international comity and fellowship. . . . The value of our own Centennial is tragically accentuated by these momentous events. Our hopes and our wishes go forth to you day and night, that you come to a peace, that shall be speedy if it may be, but that shall be honorable at all costs. . . . On behalf of the First Church in Boston, Charles E. Park, Minister, John W. Bartol, Henry H. Edes for the Standing Committee, Jan. 25, 1915. John W. Denny, Clerks The First Church also sent over funds during the war to be used by this church in old Boston for the relief of soldiers' famihes. In 1880 Rev. Dr. Rufus Ellis, min- ister of the First Church, visited the old town and brought back a number of presents. Another connecting link between old Boston and this city is a beautiful stone tracery of an ancient window which was sent as a present from St. Botolph's Church to our Trinity Church and which is placed on one side of the cloister leading from the Clarendon Street entrance. The inscription on the plate nearby reads as fol- lows : — Part of the original tracery from a window of the ancient Church of St. Botolph, Boston, Lincolnshire, England, of which John Cotton was Vicar for XXI years until he came to New England in MDCXXXIH. Presented to Trinity Church by the Reverend G. B. Blenkin, Vicar of St. Botolph's and placed here as a precious memorial of the Church of our Fathers, October MDCCCLXXIX. The fragments of this window had been discarded in old Boston and an American visitor, seeing them in the corner of the church, expressed the wish that they be sent 28 BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS over here to Trinity Church, which was accomplished in the year 1879. There was a friendly rivalry in our Boston as to which church should be favored with this gift from the old city. Rev. Rufus Ellis, pastor of the First Church, and, therefore, a .successor of John Cotton, thought that his edifice was the fitting place for the tracery to be installed, while Rev. Phillips Brooks as rector of Trinity Church, the foremost Episcopal church of Boston, urged that the gift was without doubt intended for his church. After several pleasant discussions it was ami- cably settled, and the mediaeval stone work found a final resting- place in the cloister of Trinity Church. The Rector of Trinity at the time of the receipt of this relic spoke of the great value which attaches in New England to anything associated with the name of John Cotton and added : ''For ourselves and for the church which we represent we acknowl- edge a peculiar gratification in affixing to our new walls so wel- come a reminder of our mother country and of our Mother Church, for whose prosperity and welfare we shall ever pray. . . . The gift has attracted the interest not only of our own parishioners, but of all our citizens!" Trinity Church has five pieces of communion silver given by his "Maj^^. K. George 2"^ by his Exc^. Gov*". Shirley: 1742," and on each one is the English coat of arms. There is also in this church a memorial to Rev. Arthur Stanley, Dean of Westminster, a great friend of Rev. Phillips Brooks, in memory of the first sermon he preached while in America in 1878. Rev. Phillips Brooks preached several times in St. Botolph's Church and also in Westminster Abbey, London. On one occasion I'hniiifirupked by George B. Brayton TRACERY WINDOW FROM ST. BOTOLPH'S IN THE CLOISTER OF TRINITY CHURCH, BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS, sent as a present by the Vicar of the English church. It is placed in the open corridor on the Clarendon Street side of the building. BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS 29 when he preached in St. Botolph's, all the other places of worship in the town were closed in order that their congregations might hear him. King's Chapel possessed for a number of years some church silver, which Governor Hutchinson exchanged for a new communion service, the gift of King George III, at which time he took away the old service, sending some pieces to Christ Church, Cambridge, two of which are marked, "The gift of King William and Queen Mary to ye Reve'd. Sam'l Myles for ye use of their Maj'ties Chappell in New England, 1694." Other pieces were sent to St. Paul's Church, Newburyport. King's Chapel was founded in 1686 and the first building was the first Church of England in Boston. The corner-stone of the present build- ing was laid on August 11, 1749, the architect being Peter Harrison, who was born in Eng- land in 1 7 16. In 191 8 a tablet was placed near the entrance of the church in his honour by certain architects of Boston. There are also many interesting tablets to the early settlers and to important members of the congrega- tion up to the present day, including such well- known people as OHver Wendell Holmes, Roger Wolcott, Samuel Appleton, Charles P. Curtis, Francis E. Foote, Henry Wilder Foote, Ephraim Peabody, Robert S. Peabody, Thomas Newton, one of the founders of the church, John Lowell, Kirk Boott and Arthur T. Lyman. Christ Church, which is usually referred to as the Old North Church, and which is situated on Salem Street, once called Green Lane when it was the most fashionable thoroughfare in Boston, is the possessor of two flagons bearing the royal arms of King George and among other relics is the well-known "vinegar" Bible also given by this king. The St. Botolph Club in our city possesses some interesting relics of the mother town, which are best described by quoting from the original records of the Club. A meeting of the members was held on the 25 th of February, 1882, Francis Park- man, Esq., the President, presiding, at which a letter was read by the Secretary, parts of which are here given : — From a photograph Kindness Ian Forbes-Robertson, Esq. MEMORIAL TABLET IN COTTON CHAPEL, ST. BOTOLPH'S CHURCH, ENGLAND, placed there in memory of Rev. John Cotton, by his American descendants and others. A Latin inscription, written by Hon. Edward Everett, given in the text in EngHsh, describes the placing of this memorial, in the year 1855. 3° BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS Photographed by George B. Brayton Kindness of the Governors of the St. Botolph Club, Boston, Massachusetts LOVING CUP, FORMERLY THE PROPERTY OF THE CORPORATION OF BOSTON, ENGLAND, presented to the St. Botolph Club, Boston, Mas- sachusetts, by Rev. George E. Ellis, whose nephew, Arthur B. Ellis, Esq., brought it to this country. It was presented to the Club on February 25, 1882, and accepted on behalf of the Club by Francis Parkman, Esq., then President. The cup is marked beneath the Borough Arms, "Richard Bell, Mayor, I745-" "Dear Mr. Parkman: — I herewith — through you as its Presi- dent, — present to the St. Botolph Club, of this City, a massive Silver-Gilt 'Loving Cup ' formerly belonging to the Corporation of our Mother-town, Boston, Lincolnshire, England. The Cup, with other pieces of Silver-plate belonging to that Corporation, was sold by auction in June, 1837, was pur- chased by Mr. Daniel Jackson, and by him bequeathed to his Son, Mr. George Jackson, on whose death in May, 1 881, it was at the disposal of his widow. My nephew, Mr. Arthur B. Ellis, being in Boston last summer, and having the opportunity, thinking I might wish to possess the Cup, was allowed to bring it to this country. It seemed to me that the St. Botolph Club should fitly have the Cup in its posses- sion and would value it though it is not requisite that they should put it to its origi- nal use. . . . George E. Ellis." On motion of Mr. Bradford it was "Voted that the thanks of the Club be tendered to the Rev'd. Dr. George E. Ellis for his valuable gift of a 'Loving Cup,' formerly owned by the Corporation of Bos- ton, England, which is hereby gratefully accepted upon the conditions named in his letter of the 22nd day of February, 1882. Adjourned, T. R. Sullivan, Secretary." This cup is marked beneath the Borough Arms, "Richard Bell, Mayor, 1745." Three years later the Club received another valuable relic of old Boston, the gift being made at a special meeting of the Club held on Monday, June 22. The Presi- dent, Francis Parkman, Esq., called the meeting to order and introduced to the members Rev. William S. Key of Boston, England, who then presented to the Club on behalf of the Municipal Charity Trustees of St. Botolph's Town a casting, or reproduction, of its Borough Arms. On this occasion the cup was filled and passed round among those present, who drank suitable toasts to the two Bostons and to the mermaids that appear on the shield. After an acceptance of the gift by the President, the following votes of thanks were passed by the meeting: — "Voted that the cordial thanks of the St. Botolph Club be extended to the Rev. WiUiam S. Key for the kind efforts which he has made in securing this interesting gift for permanent exhibition by the Club. BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS 31 Voted that we accept with warm thanks the kind and welcome gift of the Municipal Charity Trustees of the Borough of Boston, England. Voted that the Arms of the Town of St. Botolph be placed in our Club-House as a memorial of Old Boston and a token of the cordial regard borne towards her by her namesake." These records are signed by Arthur B. Ellis, Esq., Secretary. The discovery of this relic and its voyage to our Boston are worth describing. In 1881 Rev. William -S. Key and two friends of his, sons of Rev. Rufus Ellis, former pastor of the First Church, Boston, Massachusetts, while visiting the Town Hall in old Boston, formerly the Hall of the Guild of St. Mary, where the leaders of the Pilgrim band were confined, un- earthed from a pile of rubbish in the basement the original Borough Arms made of wood which used to hang over the Recorder's seat in the Hall. A year later Mr. Key received an invitation from his Worshipful the Mayor, John Cabourn Simonds, who for some time carried on an extensive business with Photographed by George B. Brayton Kindness nf thr (,iu,rnor> of the St. Botolph Club, Boston, M.i luihu^etts COAT OF ARMS OF BOSTON, ENGLAND A replica of the old Coat of Arms which was dis- covered by Rev. WiUiam S. Key, in the Guildhall of Boston, England, where the leaders of the Pilgrim band were tried. The original used to hang over the Recorder's desk and was unearthed from a pile of rubbish in the basement of the building. This reproduction was presented by John Cabourn Simonds, Mayor of the old town, the St. Botolph Club accepting it at a meeting of the Club on June 22, 1885. It now hangs on the Club walls. American firms in corn and cotton-seed, to attend a meeting of the Pilot Commissioners to be held in the Hall of Justice, or Court Room, where Elder Brewster and his friends had been tried. The people of St. Botolph 's Town had not known of the existence of this treasure and at the meeting thanked the discoverer and suggested that a replica be made in metal and that it should be presented to the St. Botolph Club in Boston, Massachusetts, which organization, as the presiding officer expressed it, "stands for the closest relationship between our own town and its namesake beyond the Atlan- tic." It was necessary to determine the exact colouring to be used in reproducing the various symbolic figures and this was attained by a visit to the Herald's College in London, When finished, the Arms was exhibited in a window in the market-place of old Boston, while over the building floated the Stars and Stripes, the occasion arousing great interest. Upon its arrival at this port the Custom House authori- ties were in a quandary as to how to classify it and a charge would have been 32 BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS ®oi?ou0h >^ip'^ of lo^ton ijic it ImoujntUat this anrifnt luuliiiua wa'i pmTlia5r6 bij ifrauk IBarriscm.(5sqmrp,3.f^.a rfsiCimt of this iioiim.frcmi the (Soumiors of the ?6ii!iton (SvmmTnir §'i'hoiil jfounDation.anD bq him ronUpyfCi to thc/I'^ngoF, AlCirrmcu mi& ?i3iu"ii«sf5 of this IBovciugh.f nv thric usf in prrprtuitij anO through thr hbcraliti) of thf inhahitaxits anD a sub'jtautiol donation from thf Bootoniau ^orirtii.l3o!.\tou.iVla'J5arhusett6.t3i.S. A.a funb mao raisrii bij the ^, i9 m i > *'~— »E»»^ ■fON IN '3EC :-.C, POSTS OH - - f;!M WOtLASTCfl 3£RIVEa (TS HAME ESECTEc SY ABIGAIL HHILUPS QUiNCY CHAPTER DAUGliTERS OF THE AMERICft!) REVDLUTION 1820. been written. What we generally understand to be the "Braintree Company" that came from Eng- land to our Braintree was a group of people including James 01m- stedd, J. Talcott and a Dr. Good- wyn who came over some years later, in 1632, in the ship "Lyon" under the auspices of Thomas Hooker of Chelmsford, and who settled in our Cambridge. Some confusion has therefore arisen as to these two groups of pioneers. The town of Braintree, at first often spelled Braintry, was really not permanently settled until 1634, when a number of people came over here from the counties of Devonshire, Lincolnshire and Essex. The town was incorporated in 1640 and comprised the land now included within the bounds of Quincy, Braintree, Randolph and Holbrook, the business center being at Quincy. Among those to whom early grants were given were Coddington, Wilson, Quincy, Hutchinson and Wheelwright. Joseph Loomys, or Lummys, who came from Braintree, England, was another early settler. He was a woolen merchant and the founder of the American branch of this family, the name now being spelled Loomis. Quincy was formed into a separate township in 1792, and is known the world over as having been the New England home of two Presidents of the United States. The first attempt to establish an industry at Braintree was made in 1643 when Governor Winthrop brought over some workmen to start there the manufacture of iron, among the newcomers being Lionel Copeley from York County, Nicholas Bond and others. Lynn, however, began this industry before Braintree and was evidently more successful if we may judge from the words of one writer who said that in the latter town they "pounded out less iron than they hammered out law suits." It may be interesting to mention that Captain John Smith on his map gave Quincy the name of London; and the figures of a castle and cathedral were annexed as showing the prosperity and grandeur to which he believed the town would attain. There is also a Braintree in Vermont. Kindness of the Bostoii i'uA TABLET PLACED BY THE QUINCY CHAPTER OF THE DAUGHTERS OF THE AMERICAN REVO- LUTION, IN QUINCY, MASSACHUSETTS, once part of Braintree, where Captain Wollaston in 1625 first established a trading post at Black's Creek. From him Wollaston, near Quincy and Braintree, received its name. ^ m BRAINTREE, MASSACHUSETTS 55 The English town of Braintree in Essex County was once called " Branchetreu," a Saxon name meaning "town near a river," and was once the seat of the Bishops of London. It bears evidence of having existed for generations. The earUest part of the town was located on the banks of Pods Brook in the vicinity of what is now known as Skitt's ffill; as the settlement expanded and the Romans bmlt their great roads, the population shifted toward the intersection of the two great Roman highways. The annals of Braintree are rich in names that have become famous not only in Britain but throughout the world; among these are John Ray, the naturaUst; Benjamin Allen, surgeon; Sir William Tilbury, who, though once a boot-boy in a shop near the Square, became tutor of the children of the Em- peror of Brazil; and Samuel Dale, author. Braintree's taverns also have been a subject of considerable interest, and there are still left a number of them to tell of the coaching days long past; one of the most famous is "The George Inn," the sign of which stretched over the entire width of New Street. This town, with Colchester, Dedham and several others, was called one of the "clothmg towns of England on account of the fact that the woolen cloth weavers carried on their business there. Toward the end of the eighteenth century hard times overtook Braintree and in 1804 appeared these lines:— "We saw two large townships called Braintree and Becking ^^ Where the tale of distress was of late years most shocking.' Silk mills, however, were erected there some years later, and both towns then began to prosper. _ Little Square is perhaps the most t>Tical part of old Braintree, which contains also many attractive and quaint streets. The parish church of St. Michael dates back to II 99. BRIDGEWATER, MASSACHUSETTS ON the roll of Mayors and members of Parhament of the town of Bridge- water in Somersetshire, England, are found the names of Allen, Bryant, Hooper and Mitchell, and because these names are familiar in the annals of Bridgewater, Massachusetts, it is supposed that it was so called for Enghsh Bridgewater in honour of that lovely village from which staunch Puritans emigrated to American shores. The town of Bridgewater, Massachusetts, was mcorporated in 1656 and at first included territory now comprised by Brockton (formerly North Bridgewater), East Bridgewater, West Bridgewater and parts of the towns of Abington and Hanson. The land was originally a part of what was known as "Duxbury New Plantation," which Miles Standish and others m 1645 had received permission from the Old Colony Government to purchase from the Indians. Soon after the purchase, some of the Duxbury proprietors, of whom there were m all 56 BRIDGEWATER, MASSACHUSETTS Photographed by Valentine 6* Co., Dundee, Scotland BRIDGEWATER, ENGLAND Kindness Ian Forbes-Robertson, Esq. fifty-four, became settlers here, and among the first to be associated with them was Deacon Samuel Edson, of Salem, the owner of their first mill, who became a pro- prietor and settled with the Duxbury men near the Town River, where Tavern Bridge crosses it. "And," continues the chronicler, "because this was the richest land in the whole region, some of the Duxbury people who had taken shares in the purchase settled near him, about the same time, on scattered farms from below the present village of West Bridgewater gradually extending up the river to within a mile of the head of it in Lake Nippenicket. One of the first of these was John Howard, whose house was the first tavern — for more than a century the only tavern — in the region ; and for a long time the bridge nearby was the only bridge over the river. This was, therefore, the center to which all the primitive paths converged — one from the Massachusetts Bay towns on the north, known as 'the Bay path;' two others to the southeast along the river on opposite sides of it, through the wilderness which is now Bridgewater, on the way to Plymouth; and others through the woods north and south of Lake Nippenicket to Taunton on the southwest, where the first settlers went to trade and carried grist on foot." The Duxbury settlers, who in 165 1 to 1656 founded what is now West Bridge- water, in 1662 to 1665 settled the land covered by the present Bridgewater, and among the early farms were those of the Leonards, Washburns and Edsons. Until BRIDGEWATER, MASSACHUSETTS 57 1822 the town meetings were held in West Bridgewater and for more than half a century the church services were conducted in the same place. The Enghsh seaport of Bridgewater lies in a romantic and historic part of Somer- setshire where tales of King Alfred are still told, and where, six miles distant, the noble Saxon king in 878 took refuge from the Danes encamped near the town. This county, according to tradition, also witnessed King Arthur's desperate encounters with the Saxon hordes who invaded Britain and who were met by this famous king in that great battle in the West. The town itself grew up around the ford, which appears to have been the only one across the river Parret, as all roads led to it. "The ford," says the historian, "gave the name of Brugie, or bridge, to the village in Saxon times. When William the Conqueror, after the year 1066, parcelled England with his Norman barons, Brugie and the vicinity were given to a Baron Walter and the place began to be known as Brugie- Walter, or Walter's Bridge, which finally became Bridgewater." In 1649 when Miles Standish and others purchased the "Duxbury New Plan- tation" in America, the mother town was one of the most important places in southwestern England and in that year Cromwell's army attacked the town and castle which surrendered with sixteen hundred officers and men. Portions of the old walls of the town and castle were standing until a century past. Two hundred years after Cromwell assaulted and conquered Bridgewater and after Miles Stan- dish had made his valuable purchase of New England territory, representative citizens of Bridgewater, England, sent a letter dated September 10, 1846, to the town of Bridgewater, Massachusetts. Correspondence ensued which made it apparent that the English town presented to Parliament the first petition against the slave- trade, with successful results. In these letters appeared names common to both towns. Certain books and maps were sent to England with a letter from our Bridgewater which was drafted by Rev. Paul Couch and Hon. Jesse Perkins of North Bridgewater, Rev. Darius Forbes and Hon. John E. Howard of West Bridgewater, Rev. Baalis Sanford and Rev. Nathaniel Whitman of East Bridgewater and Rev. David Brigham and Rev. Claudius Bradford of Bridgewater. Hon. John Reed also served on the committee. There are Bridgewaters also in Maine, New Hamp- shire, Vermont and Connecticut. Photographed by George B. Brayton from a very old print by G. Atkinson BRIGHTON, ENGLAND, showing in the distance the Chain Pier. Owned by Allan Forbes From a photograph Kindness Mrs. Mary Fifield King A RECENT VIEW OF BRIGHTON, ENGLAND 59 BRIGHTON, MASSACHUSETTS THE ancestors of several of the first settlers of Brighton, Massachusetts, came from the vicinity of the English Brighton, called in early days Bristelmestune, Bruyton and later Brighthelmstone, named from Brighthelm, an Anglo- Saxon bishop of the tenth century. It is fair, therefore, to suppose that our Brighton, incorporated in 1807 and now a part of Boston, was named for the fashionable watering place in England frequented by King Edward VII, Queen Victoria and many other royal persons, as well as by legions of "trippers" during the summer season. The Royal Pavilion, built by King George IV as a maritime residence when he was Prince of Wales, is undoubtedly the most interesting feature of the town and cost such a fabulous sum that Byron wrote about it the following couplet: — "Shut up — no, not the King, but the Pavilion, Or else 'twill cost us all another million." This building is no longer a residence but is used for various purposes. Part of it serves as a museum and among other interesting objects therein is a collection of pottery decorated with American subjects, such as "The Landing of the Fathers at Plymouth," "Landing of Roger WilHams at Providence," bust of George Wash- ington, etc. Four miles from Brighton is the pretty village of Rottingdean where Rudyard Kipling lived for some time. Our Brighton was set apart from Cambridge in 1779, the committee appointed to wait on the Honourable General Court with the petition being Samuel Willis Pomeroy, Gorham Parsons, Stephen and Thomas Dana and Daniel Bowen. There is also a Brighton in Maine and one in Vermont. COVENTRY, CONNECTICUT "And to-day, as we look o'er that village, Named for the one 'cross the sea. It seems to extend hearty welcome To you, from old Coventry." (The above is part of the last verse written by Ruth Amelia Higgins on the occasion of the two hundredth anniversary of the founding of Coventry, Connecticut.) 4 LTHOUGH a small town, Coventry has had such close relations with /\ Coventry in England, that it should be included in this book. Pre- A. \. vious to this two hundredth anniversary celebration, WilUam L. Higgins, who has always shown a great interest in old Coventry across the water, and who was President of the Coventry Town Committee, sent the following letter to the Mayor of Coventry, England: — 6o COVENTRY, CONNECTICUT "Coventry, Conn. U.S. July 6, 1912. To THE Honourable Mayor, Coventry, England. Dear Sir: — We are about to celebrate the 200th anniversary of the founding of this town, which according to tradition, was named after Coventry in England. In view of the fact that the first settlers in this town of Coventry were either EngUshmen or of English descent, some of whom, or their ancestors, may have come from your English city, or from its vicinity, it is very probable that in selecting a name for this place, as in the estabUsh- ment of laws and customs, their minds reverted to the mother country and to the town and surroundings from whence they came. We, therefore, accept the tradition as true and feel that some communication either in person or by letter from you would be most welcome to the people of this town, and very appropriate to the occasion. On behalf of this town of Coventry we therefore extend to you a cordial invitation to be present as a representative of your city at the celebrations of our anniversary, which will take place during the last week in August, 191 2, known as 'Old Home Week.' In case you cannot be here, and are unable to send a representative, it wiU give us great pleasure to receive some kind of acknowledgment or communication from you as a memorial of Coventry in England. Respectfully yours, William L. Higgins, President Town Committee Curtis Dean, Secretary Town Committee " We are also going to quote the reply in order to show the great interest taken by the old town in its namesake : — "The Charterhouse, Coventry July 30, 1912. To William L. Higgins, Esq., M.D. President of Town Committee, South Coventry, Conn. U.S.A. Dear Sir: — I was much interested to receive your letter of July 6th inviting me to the celebration of the 200th anniversary of the founding of your town and I only regret that I am unable to accept your kind invitation, but unfortunately all my days are practically taken up and mapped out up to the end of my term of ofl&ce, November ist, next. I see no reason to doubt that the original founders of your town were connected with our city as its citizens have always been capable of adapting themselves to the needs of the age, as witnessed by their adoption of comparatively new industries such as the bicycle and motor trades, after the shrinkage in the old watch and ribbon trades intro- duced by the Huguenots, and this spirit of originality no doubt prompted some of our ancestors 200 years ago to seek their fortunes in the New World, and to name their town in memory of their old home. At any rate there is a strong feeling among us that we have brothers and sisters in America, and I shall with pleasure make known to our citizens the reception of the kind wishes and sentiments of the New Coventry over the water, which are heartily reciprocated and I trust that your Town may prosper in the same way as this ancient city has done. I am sending you a few photographs of some of the beauty spots of our ancient city, and believe me With cordial greetings, Yours very truly, W. F. Wyley, Mayor of Coventry " COVENTRY, CONNECTICUT 6i From a print dated 17Q4 owned by Allan Forbes Formerly in the collection of J. H. Seers, Essex, England COVENTRY, ENGLAND This correspondence was followed by the following resolution passed by the citizens of the Connecticut town at the regular town meeting held on the 7th of October, 1912: — "Resolved, That, We, citizens of the Town of Coventry in town meeting assembled do hereby send to Coventry, England, Greeting: that we express to its Mayor and City Council our hearty appreciation of and thanks for the kind reception which our bi-cen- tennial message received from them, and also for the numerous books, pictures, papers and other tokens of their interest and regard sent to us in return; that we sincerely recipro- cate the kind wishes and sentiments expressed in Mayor Wyley's letter to us, and that we shall ever hold Coventry across the sea in affectionate remembrance and regard and rejoice in her prosperity. Attest. John S. Champlin, Town Clerk " This celebration and the correspondence that ensued created a great deal of interest in old Coventry, which, by the way, is sometimes referred to as the "town of the three spires," and an account of the proceedings was printed in the Coventry Herald in the English town. Many friendly letters were also received by our Coventry, which included a very impressive letter from an English workman describing his pleasure at the interchange of friendly messages between the two towns. These letters including the article in the Coventry Herald, together with a number of 62 COVENTRY, CONNECTICUT books, pictures and presents, sent from the ancient city, are prized very highly by the town com- mittee of our Coventry. Still another evidence of the friendship between the two countries was shown on this occasion of the anniversary of the Connecticut town, when ribbons from Stephen's Factory in the English town were worn as badges by the citizens of our town. Some years ago Dean Beau- mont of Coventry, England, visited New Haven and while there recalled the fact that their first Governor was Theophilus Eaton, who was the son of an early vicar of Holy Trinity, Coventry, England, and that the first pastor of the New Haven church was John Davenport, the son of a former Mayor of the English Coventry. Davenport with some friends visited Quin- nipiac, the old Indian name for New Haven, and founded a colony there in the year 1638. Both had been students at the Coventry Grammar School. Canon Beaumont at one time was able to save an historic building in New Haven, whereupon he was made a corresponding member of its Historical Society. While a guest of the town, Beaumont was received with much courtesy by Professor Dexter of Yale University, whose wife was a descendant of Davenport, and who had several times visited the old town in search of historical information respecting the founders of her city. There are at least five Coventrys in America, four of which are situated in Connecricut, Pennsylvania, Rhode Island and Vermont, the Connecticut Coventry being incorporated in 171 2. The early pedrion to the Court gave a Hst of six families most of whom are said to have come from Hartford, Connecticut, and Northampton, Massachusetts. One of the interesring objects in connecrion with the early history of the Connecticut Coventry was the will of the Indian sachem "Joshua," which is preserved in the State Library at Hartford. Photographs. : , Lrmst W. Appleby Kindness Ian Forbes-Robertson, Esq. THE DAVENPORT HOUSE, COVENTRY, ENGLAND The home of the ancestors of John Davenport, who was one of the founders of New Haven, Connecticut, and first pastor of the church there. The COVENTRY, CONNECTICUT 63 redskin made careful provisions for his children and their bringing up, recording his wishes in these words : — "Further my Will is that my Children be brought up the first four years with Trusty and their mother to teach them EngUsh . . . and at the expiration of the said four Years I desire that my Children may be kept at the EngUsh Schoole." He especially desired that they should be kept apart from the Con- necticut Indians, and made the further request that he be buried at "Saybrook in a Coffin after the English manner." The town is best known as the birthplace and home of Nathan Hale who was shot as a spy in the Revolutionary War, his last words, "My only regret is that I have but one hfe to lose for my country," being known the world over. A beautiful monument has been set up to his memory in the Nathan Hale Cemetery in Coventry, other memorials also having been erected in the east corridor of the State Capitol, Hartford, Connecticut, on the front lawn of the Wadsworth Athenaeum, Hartford, Connecticut, in City Hall Park, New York, and on the Yale Campus, New Haven. The town of this name in Vermont was named for the Connecticut town in honour of Major Elias Buel, whose father. Captain Peter Buel, was one of the first settlers in the latter place. To the reader the EngHsh Coventry, of course, suggests Lady Godiva and the "Peeping Tom" incident. Tradition has been heaped upon tradition until the story has assumed large proportions and today in the EngHsh town there is an efiigy of the curious one — who was a tailor — in the wall of the King's Head Hotel on Hertford Street. For his rashness, according to Tennyson, — "His eyes, before they had their will Were shrivell'd into darkness in his head, And dropped before him." Photo!ra;l i ^ frne t II'. AppL^y Kindness Ian Forbes-Rohertson, Esq. EFFIGY OF PEEPING TOM, KING'S HEAD HOTEL, COVENTRY, ENGLAND 64 COVENTRY, CONNECTICUT It must be remembered, however, that Lady Godiva was a real person, the wife of Leofric, mother of ^Ifgar, Earl of East AngHa, and that her remains were buried in the monastery at Coventry. The town itself has been the scene of many charming stories and a modern chronicler well described its place in British history in these words: "It is a typi- cally English city, whose history might serve as the ' abstract and brief chronicles ' of the time. A thoroughly corrupt borough in the worst days of municipal cor- ruption, rigidly Puritan under the Stuarts, loyal under Elizabeth, steady for hered- itary right at Mary's accession — but Protestant, as witness its martyrs — Lollard in the heyday of Lollardry, patriotic and tolerant throughout the Hundred Years' War — as England was, so was Coventry. In art and letters, also, the city recalls what is most characteristic in the achievements of the English people. Here flourished mediaeval architecture, an art wherein EngHshmen have excelled greatly; . . . while chance and the sojourn of George Eliot, have given the city associations with the literary outburst of the Victorian time." A part of the old wall begun in 1356 still remains; it is recorded that Charles I made a breach in this wall in 1642 and that some years later another breach was ordered by Charles II in revenge for the repulsing of his father's forces. Many have believed that the famous Mother Shipton foretold the final destruction of this wall when she prophesied that a pigeon should pull it down, which turned out to be true, for the walls were eventually taken down during the Mayoralty of Thomas Pigeon. There are many old landmarks in Coventry and among other attractive feat- ures are "the three tall spires" shown in the cut, which lend a dignity to the view as one approaches the city. One of these spires is that of St. Michael's, said to be one of the finest specimens of the florid or perpendicular style of architecture in England. Coventry is the center of many industries such as woolens, hosiery, textiles, watches, iron and brass foundries, printing, motor and cycle manufacturing. It is well described by Michael Drayton, Poet Laureate in 1626, in these lines: — "Now flourishing with fanes [temples] and proud pyramides [spires] Her walls in good repair, her ports [gates] so bravely built, Her haUs in good estate, her cross so richly gilt As scorning all the Towns that stand within her view." In ancient documents the town was called Coventree, sometimes Coven tria, both names probably being derived from a convent established there in the seventh century of which St. Osburg was the Abbess. When Queen Elizabeth visited Coventry, the Mayor is supposed to have received his Sovereign with these words: — "We men of Coventree Are very glad to see Your Gracious Majestie. Good Lord, how fair ye be!" COVENTRY, CONNECTICUT 65 To which the Queen is said to have replied : — "Our gracious Majestie Is very glad to see Ye men of Coventree. Good lack, what fools are ye!" In St. Michael's Cathedral is the burial-place of Ann Sewell, wife of WiUiam Sewell, who is an ancestor of many of the family of this name in New England. The famous Mrs. Siddons was married in Holy Trinity Church. John Davenport was born in Coventry in 15 17 and his house is still standing. The town quite re- cently commemorated the centenary of George Eliot. DOVER, MASSACHUSETTS FORTY-FOUR American and Colonial Dovers, including the Maine and Massachusetts Dovers and possibly the New Hampshire Dover, were rep- resented at the great pageant held in Dover, England, in 1908. The chorus sang the following two verses, one expressing the pleasure of Dover, England, in receiving so many of her offspring, the other being an ode to the famous English port: — "And ye that hearken the while we sing, Look up, and behold a wondrous thing! For these her daughters from oversea, That follow in Dover's company, Forty and four The wide world o'er. And mothers of mighty sons to be — These from the ends of the earth who came, Share her honour, and bear her name — With home-felt rapture around her throng. And thrill to the close of her triumph-song!" "Oh, fair and majestic haven, couched under the seacliffs white, That title upon thee graven, Invicta, was thine of right. For one with the waves thy glory, and one with the winds thy might, And the web of thine endless story is woven by day and night, Of ocean's infinite yearning, criss-crossed with the to-and-fro Of a thousand keels returning, a thousand that outward go! From the frowning towers above thee, to the fringing foam below To think of thee is to love thee, as all that have known thee know." The scene of this pageant must have been very inspiring, for nearby was the historic Dover Castle, shown in the cut on the next page, and also Shakespeare Cliff, which was chosen by Shakespeare for his famous scene between Edgar and Gloucester in "King Lear." A monument is to be raised on the Chfifs to the men who fell during DOVER, MASSACHUSETTS 67 From a print in the collection of Carleion A. Shaw, Esq. Kindness Carleton A. Shaw, Esq., and Arthur G. Fuller, Esq. EMBARKATION OF HENRY VIII AT DOVER IN 1520 The original of this picture hangs in the Royal Apartments at Windsor Castle. It can be seen that even in those days Dover ranked high among the important ports of the world. the Great War while serving in the splendid "Dover Patrol," whose duties were shared by many Americans. A similar monoHth will be erected near Cape Blanc Nez in France and also on some government land overlooking New York Harbour, the cost of the latter having been defrayed by subscriptions to the Dover Patrol Memorial Fund Committee, the presentation of which was made on April 21, 1920, to our Secretary of War by Major Evelyn Wrench, Hon. Secretary of the London Branch of the Enghsh-Speaking Union. The memorial will testify to the spirit of co-opera- tion which existed between the American and British navies during the late war. Most of the travelers to Dover in the past have thought first of all of the channel passage, whether it was to be rough or smooth, but it is inevitable that tourists should in the future take more interest in this town, which is a prosperous port, an important garrison town, a naval depot, a popular watering place and a busy commercial center, with a population of about forty-two thousand. It is only twenty-two miles to France, and on a clear day the coast is clearly discernible, as Wordsworth described in these words: — "And saw, while sea was calm and air was clear. The coast of France! the coast of France how near!" It was from Dover that the first successful start was made to cross the Channel in a balloon, on January 7, 1785, and in this port on July 25, 1909, landed M. Bleriot, the first to cross these waters in a monoplane. Dover, situated in County Kent on the river Dour, is one of the historic Cinque Ports, and furnished five ships which helped considerably in defeating the Armada. 68 DOVER, MASSACHUSETTS Photographed by The View &* Portrait Supply Co., 15, Lisle St., Leicester Sq., //'. Kindness Ian Forbes-Robertson, Esq. DOVER CASTLE, DOVER, ENGLAND The Massachusetts town has taken a great deal of interest in the Enghsh Dover and, about the year 1845, officially appointed the Rev. Dr. Sanger in town meeting to write a suitable reply to a letter of greeting sent from this channel port, but as the subject did not appear in the Town Warrant, there is no record of this interest- ing event. Again in 1898, when the Dover First Parish celebrated the one hun- dred and fiftieth anniversary of its organization, fitting reference was made to the mother town. In 1918, H. J. Taylor, Esq., of Dover, England, a member of the British American Fellowship Committee, sent Dover an invitation to have any of its men serving in the war visit the Enghsh seaport and so far as possible notices were sent to all Dover boys informing them of this invitation. In 1920 various pubHcations giving the history of Dover were sent to the mother town and were acknowledged for the corporation by the town clerk, Reginald E. Knocker, Esq. In exchange, the Dover, Massachusetts, Public Library received "Annals of Dover" by J. Bavington Jones; "Dover and the Great War;" and "Dover, England's Gate" by Walter Emden, late Mayor of Dover, all volumes being highly prized by the Hbrary. Dover, Massachusetts, was incorporated as the Springfield Parish of Dedham in 1748, as the District of Dover in 1784 and as the town of Dover in 1836. There is also a Dover in Vermont. 69 EXETER, NEW HAMPSHIRE THE beginnings of Exeter, New Hampshire, date back to the year 1638 when Rev. John Wheelwright, being denied by the Massachusetts Bay Colony freedom in reHgious matters and having incurred the displeasure of the authorities, was banished from the Colony in 1637. With a small band of follow- ers and companions he turned to the North and was given by the Indian sagamore and his son, by deeds dated 1638 which are still preserved, title to a tract of land about the Falls of the Squamscott. The name of Exeter was given to this settle- ment in honour of Godfrey Dear- born of Exeter, England, who had accompanied Rev. Mr. Wheel- wright in his exile. There is on record an estimate of the prowess of Rev. Mr. Wheelwright on the football field, written by Oliver Cromwell who often played against him while they were fel- low-students at Cambridge Uni- versity, and who declared later that he used to be more afraid of meeting Wheelwright at football than he had been since of meeting an army in the field. After grad- uation Wheelwright took holy orders and later became allied with the Puritan movement and was silenced for non-conformity. In 1636 he landed in Boston and soon after became pastor of a new church gathered at Mt. Wollas- ton, now Quincy. After falHng under the ban of the Massachu- setts Bay Colony and settling in this New Hampshire territory, now Exeter, one of the first deeds accomplished was the founding of a church which still remains the Town Church. Rev. Samuel Dudley, son of Governor Thomas From a photograph Kindness Edmund S. Boyer, Esq., and Joseph S. Ford, Esq. REPLICA OF THE COAT OF ARMS OF EXETER, ENGLAND, IN THE ADMINISTRATION BUILDING OF PHILLIPS-EXETER ACADEMY, EXETER, NEW HAMPSHIRE, procured by Joseph S. Ford, Esq., at the suggestion of the President of the Board of Trustees of the Academy, S. Sidney Smith, Esq. The present was sent in 1915 by A. Wheaton, Esq., of the EngHsh Exeter, and with it came a copy of the exemphfication of the coat of arms given by Queen Elizabeth, dated August 6, 1564, the town being spelled Exceter at that time. The building in which it is placed is shown in the accompanying cut. From "Life at Exeter" Kindness Edmund S. Boyer, Esq., and Phillips-Exeter Academy ADMINISTRATION BUILDING OF PHILLIPS-EXETER ACADEMY, EXETER, NEW HAMPSHIRE, in which there is a reproduction of the coat of arms of Exeter, England, shown in another illustration. From "32 Photographic Views oj South Devon," C llcut &• Beavis, London Kindness H'olter K. H'utkins, Esq. EXETER CATHEDRAL, EXETER, ENGLAND EXETER, NEW HAMPSHIRE From " The ll'est Coa^i nf EnsLnd" Pi, fin I (, i ',- "?, nd Edition Kindness Walter K, Watkins, Esq. THE EXE BRIDGE, EXETER, ENGLAND Dudley, a native of England, was pastor of this church for thirty-three years. Another man who added to the fame of Exeter was John PhilHps, who, born in Andover, Massachusetts, moved to Exeter in 174 1. He taught for a time, then engaged in trade in which he was very successful. He gave liberally to the cause of education, contributing to Dartmouth College and, joining with his brother, Samuel, founded PhilHps-Andover. He later founded and organized Philhps- Exeter Academy in 1783, remaining for twelve years as its head. Daniel Web- ster, Edward Everett and General Lewis Cass (who was born in Exeter in a house which is still standing) are three well-known graduates of this Academy. The Oilman, Ladd, French and Folsom famihes are others who have done much for the development of the town from its earliest days down to the present time. WilHam H. Folsom who pitched the first curved ball for Harvard University was a native of Exeter. In 1915, through the efforts of Mr. Joseph S. Ford, at the suggestion of the Presi- dent of the Board of Trustees of the Academy, S. Sidney Smith, Esq., of New York City, a replica of the City Arms of Exeter, England, was sent to the New Hampshire town by Mr. A. Wheaton, book pubHsher in the Enghsh Exeter. This now hangs in the Administration Building of Phillips-Exeter Academy. An exemphfication of the coat of arms, as granted by Queen Elizabeth, dated August 6, 1564, and verified as a copy by Mr. H. Lloyd Parry, Town Clerk, was sent from England as descriptive of the replica and is now preserved in the Library of the Academy. At the time the original document was written the manner of spelling the name of the town in England was "Exceter." Exeter, England, is situated in the county of Devon, on the river Exe, which plainly shows whence came its name. This old English town is famous for the number of sieges it sustained as the chief place in the southwest of England. In early times it was called Caer Isc by the Britons, while later the Romans called it 72 EXETER, NEW HAMPSHIRE Isca Damnoniorum. On an eminence near one of the railway stations may be seen the ruins of Rougemont Castle, built by William the Conqueror, which was so named for the colour of the rock on which it was built. Exeter's principal edifice is the cathedral, begun in iioo, which is famed for the beauty of its design and the richness of its decorations. In the chapter-house of the cathedral is preserved, among other valuable ancient manuscripts, Leofric's famous book of Saxon poetry. The city has some shipping trade, communication with the sea being furnished by the ship-canal originally cut in the reign of EHzabeth in 1564. This waterway is an interesting work, being the first one carried out in the United Kingdom for the purpose of enabling seagoing vessels to pass to an inland port. FRAMINGHAM, MASSACHUSETTS FRAMLINGHAM, England, which is spelled with an "1," is a small town near Ipswich as shown in a letter written in 1900 by Rev. J. Holme Pilking- ton, Rector of Framlingham, to Peter N. Everett, Esq., Secretary of the Bicentennial Committee of Framingham, Massachusetts: — "A remark in an Jpswich paper a week or two back, will, I think, give you a good idea of our present condition. It says ' FramUngham went to sleep in the time of Queen Elizabeth, and has not woke up yet. You may make as much noise as you like, you will never wake it now.' I am afraid there is much truth underlying the sarcasm." Another note written in 1900 describes Framlingham as a "small town of rather more than two thousand inhabitants. Though a small and (except locally) unim- portant place now, it has great and interesting historical associations and the im- posing ruins of Framlingham Castle testify to its ancient grandeur. I expect the American daughter has altogether eclipsed her EngUsh Mother." There have been a few interchanges of presents which have been sent chiefly by the Rector, as the town does not boast of a Mayor. The most interesting report, however, of the old town has been written by Mr. John M. Merriam and we beHeve we cannot do better than quote parts of his account of his visit to Fram- lingham, which he has kindly furnished for this article: — "It was an unusual pleasure which fell to our lot May 26, 1914, to visit the Town of Framlingham, in England, and it has been a continuing pleasure since our return to our home in Massachusetts to study, so far as we have been able, the history of this old Mother town. These two far distant Towns are connected through the life of Thomas Danforth. When the Pilgrims were endeavoring to preserve their frail settlement on these Massa- chusetts shores in 1622, a son was born to Nicholas Danforth in Framlingham, England. The father, Nicholas, was a man of position in his community, in England, being a Vestry- man in the established church. According to the custom of the church the son was bap- tised at the old Font in front of the Altar and this font is still in use, and the record of his baptism is preserved in the Parish records which can still be examined in consecutive order from the century preceding his birth to the present time. The father moved from Eng- FRAMINGHAM, MASSACHUSETTS 73 ■ned hy John M. Mfrri.jm, Eyj., of Framinshwf . Massachusetts FRAMLINGHAM CHURCH, FRAMLINGHAM, ENGLAND The Rector of this church, Rev. J. Hohne Pilkington, sent letters at the time of the Bicentennial celebration of the incorporation of Framingham, Massachusetts, in 1900. land in 1634. He had lost his wife in 1629 and he brought with him the six children she had left. He was among the early settlers of Cambridge. The son, Thomas, was destined for important service in this new land. . . . According to Governor Hutchinson, he had a 'great share in managing the public affairs in the most difl&cult times.' For his pubhc service, and for money spent by him in the pubUc interest, several grants of land were made to him which were known as 'Danforth Farms' and this territory was incorporated in 1700 as Framingham in remembrance of the town of his birth. Danforth had died in the preceding year, November 5, 1699. The name was in use before the incor- poration of the town and occurs in Danforth's own letters, spelled Framingham. Our Town Historian, Rev. Josiah H. Temple, gives a few references in our Colonial records in which the EngUsh spelling Framlingham was followed. I have found a further instance of this spelling in Cotton Mather's Diary, where he records, August 14, 1718, 'Divisions and Confusions in the Church at FramUngham call for my best endeavors to bring them to a period.' This will suffice to show the connection historically of FramUngham, England, and Framingham, Mass. A branch railroad leaves the main hne about eighty miles from London, and ends at the Httle Town of FramUngham, a township of some two thousand people in the northern part of Suffolk County near the line of Norfolk. . . . The oak seems to have flourished near FramUngham. Probably many of these 74 FRAMINGHAM, MASSACHUSETTS giants of the forest went into the frigates and merchantmen which have carried the Eng- hsh flag to all the seas of the world. One of these old giants was known as the ' Framling- ham Oak,' an account of which is given in the 'Library of Entertaining Knowledge.' This tree was used in the construction of the 'Royal Sovereign.' It yielded, so we read, four square beams, each one forty-four feet in length, the largest one of which was four feet nine inches square. These old Enghsh oaks were very dear to the English people, as some of their old songs abundantly prove. Listen to the words of the familiar song 'Hearts of Oak.' 'Hearts of oak are our ships. Jolly tars are our men. We always are ready, Steady boys, steady, We'll fight and we'll conquer Again and again.' 'They swear they'll invade us, these terrible foes. They frighten our women, our children, our beaux, But should their flat bottoms in darkness get o'er Still Britons they'll find to receive them on shore.' Let us now turn to the history of Framhngham. It is a town of great antiquity begin- ning possibly with the Roman occupation. The ruins of a castle of very considerable proportions crown the highest land, and with the old church nearby, are the principal objects of interest. This old Castle is among the prominent ones of early England. All it needs is the genius of another Scott to cast around it romantic interest similar to that of Kenilworth. This Castle was the home of perhaps the foremost family in England, the Howards, famous for many generations as the great House of Norfolk. It was this family which furnished Thomas Howard, the second Duke of Norfolk, the English leader of the battle resulting in the defeat of Scotland at Flodden Field. Closely connected with the same family were those unfortunate royal cousins, Anne Boleyn and Catherine Howard, wives of Henry VIII, who lost their heads at the command of their husband and king. Another Howard was their powerful uncle, Thomas the Duke of Norfolk, who was saved from death at the block by the death of the king himself the day before the time appointed for the execution. . . . The present representative of the Howard family in England is the Duke of Norfolk, often called the premier duke of England, as his title can be traced to the earhest sources of all present titles. Among the paintings of the last century is one of Framlingham Castle bearing date 1828, by John Sell Cotman, A.W.S. A friend recently gave to me a portfolio of copies of English oils and water colors, and in it I was deUghted to find a copy of Cotman's paint- ing, which shows the castle as it stood eighty-six years ago. . . . The author, Richard Green, gives two possible sources of the name Framhngham; one from the Saxon words FriendUng and Ham — a stranger's home, or a habitation of strangers; and the other from the name of the stream Fromas. The name antedates the Domesday Book of William the Conqueror when it is written 'Framincham.' It became a family name in 1330 as there is record of John de Framlingham, a Rector of Kelsale, and in 1 540 Henry VIII conferred a grant of land to Francis Framlingham, who held the same from Thomas Howard, third Duke of Norfolk, as 'Lord of the Manor of Framlingham ad Castrum.' In this history of Green's the Castle is called a 'pile of unknown antiquity.' An early description by Dr. Henry Sampson, the Rector of Framlingham in 1 650-1 660 is this: 'Framlingham Castle is a very ancient structure, and said to have been built in the time of the Saxons. It was one of the principal seats of St. Edmund the King and Martyr. When he fled from Dunwich, being pursued by the pagan Danes, he took refuge in this Castle but being hard besieged, and having no hope of rescue, he fled from thence, and FRAMINGHAM, MASSACHUSETTS 75 From a print dated 1813, owned by Allan Forbes Formerly in the collection of J. H. Seers, Essex, England FRAMLINGHAM CASTLE, SUFFOLK, ENGLAND Framingham, Massachusetts, is named for Framlingham, England. being overtaken by his enemies, was beheaded at Hoxon, from where long after his corpse was removed and reinterred at Bury, called since Bury St. Edmunds.' Dr. Henry Sampson gives the interesting description of Framlingham Castle. 'This castle was given by King Edward I to his second son, Thomas of Brotheron, Earl of Norfolk and Marshall of England, who repaired it, as appeareth by his arms in diverse places thereof.' But the chief interest in Framhngham Castle is in its association with Mary, who became Queen of England upon the death of her younger brother, Edward VI, in 1553. When he died Mary was at Hunsdon in the north of England, and the message came to her that her right to succeed was disputed and that she was destined for imprisonment in the Tower of London. She turned as a fugitive toward Kenninghall in Norfolk County, where at one time she had Uved. . . . Kenninghall was unfortified, but only twenty miles away was Framlingham Castle, encircled with moats and completely fortified, and here she determined to make her stand as England's Queen. Directly Mary stood within the magnificent area formed by the circUng towers of Framlingham Castle, she felt herself a sovereign; she immediately defied her enemies, by displaying her standard over the gate-tower, and assumed the title of queen-regent of England and Ireland. With the arrival of Queen Mary, FramHngham Castle became and remained for a few days the seat of Government. Mary appointed a privy council who came to her assistance at Framlingham and royal proclamations were issued from this Castle. . . . On the last day of July, Mary began her triumphal march from Framlingham to London. The opposition to her succession to the throne had been overcome, influential leaders had 76 FRAMINGHAM, MASSACHUSETTS come to her support, an army had been placed at her command, ships sent to Yarmouth in order to besiege, the FramUngham Castle had surrendered upon her order, money had been supplied, and she had organized a Government. This event in the life of Queen Mary is thus summed up by the historian Knight; — 'Here Mary remained till the last day of July. She entered the gates of Framlingham after a hurried ride of secrecy and fear. She went forth surrounded with armed thousands in the state of a Queen.' . . . The old church at Framlingham, as well as the Castle, is of unusual interest; it is situated near the entrance to the castle. In this Church are the tombs of Henry Howard, Duke of Norfolk, and his son the Earl of Surrey. In the same corner of the Church is the tomb of Henry Fitzroy, the natural son of King Henry VIII, known in history as the Earl of Richmond. This King wrought speedy punishment upon his wives, Anne Boleyn and Catherine Howard when slander impeach- ing their fidelity was brought to him, but he saw no wrong in his own association with Lady EHzabeth Talbois, resulting in the birth of this son in 15 19. This boy lived only seventeen years, but before his death he married Mary Howard, the sister of the Earl of Surrey. This boy was not only acknowledged by his father, but had all the favor and training which could have been given him as the legitimate Prince. Froude states that he was 'a gallant high spirited boy,' that his 'beauty and noble promise' were at once 'his father's misery and pride,' and adds 'if this boy had lived he would have been named to follow Edward VI in this succession and would have become King of England.' To what strange fancy are we led as we pause at the tomb of this boy in the Framlingham Church and conjecture how his life, had it been spared, might have changed the whole course of English history. But our most pleasant recollection of Framlingham centers around the Rectory occu- pied by the Rev. James Holme Pilkington. Our letter of introduction from Mr. Peter N. Everett in the name of the Selectmen of Framingham secured a very cordial welcome from the Rector and his wife. He recalled his correspondence with our Bicentennial Committee in 1899 and 1900, parts of which have already been quoted, and expressed an interest in our populous community, which in commercial prosperity has far outstripped the English town. We were made welcome in his home, learned from him something of the history of the Castle and of the Church, saw the old Parish register, partook of tea at his table, and w^alked about his beautiful grounds. It was a welcome many miles from home, and in a strange land, from one we had never met before, but it had the warmth and sincerity as from an old friend. The hospitality of our host expressed to us a bond of real kinship between the English Framlingham and the American Framingham." The English Rector in one of his letters to Mr. Everett wrote : — "I am sending by this post a packet containing the guide to Framlingham which I prom- ised, and also a small local Almanack containing a short retrospect of the past year, with three or four back numbers of our small local paper. You will see, as you doubtless al- ready know, that we are very much behind you in the matter of journalism. I am unable to send you a facsimile of our ofi&cial seal, as Framlingham does not possess such a thing. We are under the rule of Parish Council, which are seal-less corporations." There is only one Framingham in the United States. 77 GREENWICH, CONNECTICUT THE town of Greenwich in the county of Kent, England, from which Green- wich, Connecticut, received its name, is celebrated as the home of many dis- tinguished individuals. Dr. Johnson lived there for a short time and liked the town, although he and his companion agreed that they liked London much better. He must have enjoyed the place a great deal, however, for he described it in the following lines : — "On Thames's banks in silent thought we stood, Where Greenwich smiles upon the silver flood; Pleased with the seat that gave Eliza birth, We kneel and kiss the consecrated earth." (Eliza refers to Queen Elizabeth.) Greenwich has been spoken of as the "marine residence" of the kings and reached its zenith at the time of Charles I. During the reign of Henry VIII many tilting tournaments were held there, the King himself being most skillful at this ancient sport. Besides excelUng in tilting, he was also good at other games, for we are told that once on a visit to France he defeated a huge German in a combat with battle-axes, being beaten, however, by Francis I of France in wrestling. King Henry's brother-in-law, Charles Brandon, whose marriage took place at Greenwich in 15 15, was also an expert at the tilts, and at one tournament held in France he won over all comers in a contest in which pointed spears were used. The following extract from a challenge issued in 1606 well expresses the romance and excitement attending one of these tournaments: — "To all honourable men at arrmes, and knights, adventurers of hereditarie note and exemplarie noblesse that for moste maintainable actions do wield eyther sword or lance in quest of glorie." At another meeting it is said that three hundred spears were "shivered" in one day's sport. Henry VIII was born in Greenwich and lived there the greater part of his early Ufe, in the gay days of the town. It was there that he resided after his marriage in 1509 to Catherine of Aragon, with whom he lived happily for several years. While she was in the good graces of the king, Catherine took an active interest in the affairs of the nation. It is told of her that when business was dull in Bedfordshire, the center of the lace industry, she burned her lace, ordering more to be made, and, in recognition of this royal patronage, as late as the nineteenth century the lace makers kept "Cattern's Day" as a holiday of their craft. It was from Green- wich that this unfortunate wife had to depart in 1531 to give place to Anne Boleyn, and from that time on, the cruel career of King Henry is only too well known. Queen Elizabeth, who was a daughter of King Henry VIII and Anne Boleyn, was GREENWICH, CONNECTICUT FTom an old print Owned by Allan Forbes GREENWICH HOSPITAL, GREENWICH, LONDON, ENGLAND, NOW THE ROYAL NAVAL COLLEGE Greenwich is now part of London. Many important events in England's history took place there. born at Greenwich and raised the village to the position of a town. It was during the reign of this queen that Drake circumnavigated the globe and after this event sailed up the Thames in front of her Greenwich Palace to receive honours from Queen Elizabeth, who dined on board Drake's vessel and knighted the famous explorer. The Royal Naval College is a feature second only in importance to the Royal Observatory. Before being taken over for the present purpose, this splendid range of buildings was known as Greenwich Hospital, and it is interesting to know that its pensioners were benefited indirectly by the well-known pirate Captain Kidd, whose property was sold after his execution in London and £6472 therefrom given to the hospital. There is a "Nelson" room in this College, containing some fine paintings of that great seaman's victories. On the site of this building once stood the Royal Palace in which Henry VIII, Queen Mary and Queen EHzabeth were born, and Edward VI died. Cardinal Wolsey lived in Greenwich and also the family of General Wolfe of GREENWICH, CONNECTICUT 79 Canadian fame. It is from the meridian of Greenwich that geographers reckon longitude and from the Royal Observatory the hours are flashed to every part of England and Scotland by means of the "motor" clock which is one of the many extraordinary instruments of this institution. The connecting links between old Greenwich in England and new Greenwich in Connecticut were the two brothers John Mead and Joseph Mead, who were born in Greenwich, England, now part of Greater London, and who settled in that part of Greenwich, Connecticut, now called Sound Beach, formerly named Elizabeth's Neck in honour of Queen Elizabeth, and later Greenwich, to commemorate the birth- place of these two Meads. The two brothers were buried in the old cemetery in Sound Beach, having lived in that Connecticut town for the greater part of their Hves, except during the time of the controversy between the English and the Dutch over the sovereignty of the settlement, when they temporarily moved to Hempstead, Long Island. John Mead made his first purchase of land in Greenwich in the year 1660 and from then to the present time this name has been one of the most important in the town. Eleven out of twenty- three subscribers towards the Greenwich Library were members of the Mead family. The following story is told in Greenwich of this early settler: — One day when he was riding on horseback Mead overtook a man walking along the road with a heavy bundle and asked him whether he couldn't carry it for him. "No," was the reply, "you don't get my bundle, for I can read men's thoughts." This, of course, irritated Mead. In a short time they came to a river which had to be forded, whereupon the horseman offered to take the suspecting traveler over the stream on his horse; the offer was accepted, and Mead, on reaching the deepest part, precipitated his passenger into the water, telling him it would teach him a good lesson. Joseph Mead, the brother, was one of the "Twenty-seven Proprietors of 1672" of the Town of Greenwich; other important names were Peck, Lockwood, Reynolds, Close, Ferris and Palmer. Two other early settlers were George Hubbard and Robert Husted, both well- known names in our Greenwich. The former was probably born in Somerset, England, coming to this country about 1635 and buying land in the town in the year 1659; the latter sailed from England for Massachusetts in 1635, moving to Stamford, Connecticut, several years later. He was a witness in 1640 to the Indian deed to Greenwich, conveying part of the town to Robert Feaks and Captain Daniel Patrick, who landed at Greenwich Point as agents of the New Haven Colony for the purpose of acquiring that property at Greenwich. It may be interesting to mention that Feaks' wife was the widow of Henry Winthrop, son of Governor Winthrop of Massachusetts. These two men at once settled at Greenwich, where they died a few years later. 8o GREENWICH, CONNECTICUT The early settlers had much trouble with the Indians, but finally made an agreement with the Dutch providing that their combined forces should be used in case of Indian attacks. The early town of Greenwich, or Old Town, as it was called, included the terri- tory between the Mianus River on the west and the town of Stamford on the east. The town soon spread westward beyond the river, this settlement being known in 1669 by the curious name of Horseneck, so called because its shape was said to resemble a horse with his neck outstretched. This name was used until 1849, although the consolidation of the two towns took place in 1705. The patent for the town was granted only on the condition that an orthodox church should be maintained and the first church stood near the Greenwich Cove. In the year 1673 postal trips on horseback were inaugurated over the trail that was at first known as the Westchester Path, later called the Country Road, then the icing's Highway, Post Road, Turnpike Road, and finally the Post Road again, by which name it is now known. The messenger allowed people to travel with him. A weekly packet service between Greenwich and New York was also es- tablished as early as 1696, to carry produce and passengers. No visitor should go to Greenwich without visiting the scene of General Israel Putnam's famous ride of the Revolutionary War. The centennial of this event was held at Greenwich on February 26, 1879, and on that occasion there were present as guests a great-grandson of Putnam and also a grandson of Thomas Merritt of Canada, the Tory who chased the General to the brow of the hill, down which he galloped his horse, "daring to lead where not one of many hundred foes dared to follow." The history of the nearby city of Stamford is closely connected with that of Greenwich, as the latter place was in the early days part of the former. There is also a Greenwich in Massachusetts. HAVERHILL, MASSACHUSETTS "Graceful in name and in thyself, our river None fairer saw in John Ward's pilgrim flock, Proof that upon their century-rooted stock The English roses bloom as fresh as ever. Take the warm welcome of new friends with thee. And listening to thy home's familiar chime Dream that thou hearest, with it keeping time, The bells on Merrimac sound across the sea. Think of our thrushes, when the lark sings clear. Of our sweet Mayflowers when the daisies bloom; And bear to our and thy ancestral home The kindly greeting of its children here. HAVERHILL, MASSACHUSETTS 8i Say that our love survives the severing strain; That the New England, with the Old, holds fast The proud, fond memories of a common past; Unbroken still the ties of blood remain!" THE above lines were written by the poet John Greenleaf Whittier, at the time that Hon. Daniel Gurteen, Jr., Chairman of the Local Board of Ha- verhill, England, and his daughter, Miss Grace Gurteen, ofificially visited our city of Haverhill, in 1890, on its two hundred and fiftieth anni- versary. Mr. Gurteen and his daughter called on Mr. Whittier at his home in Danvers and it was there that he wrote these impromptu lines, which he dedi- cated to the young English woman. The English Chairman in the following letter had been ofificially asked by the Mayor of Haverhill, Massachusetts, Hon. Thomas E. Burnham, to repre- sent his town at this celebra- tion : — "Mayor's Office, Haverhill, Mass. March 15, 1890. To THE Chairman of the Local Board, Haverhill, England. Sir: — In the year 1640, Rev. John Ward, born in Haverhill, England, penetrated with a small band of followers into what was then a wilderness, and formed a little set- tlement on the banks of the Merri- mac River, in what is now Essex County, Massachusetts. In honor of their devout pastor they named the settlement Haverhill for his home in England. . . . This year, on the second and third of July, we propose to have a celebration of the quarter-millen- nial anniversary of the settlement of our city, and recognizing the ties that bind us to your own ancient town, and feeling that it would From a photograph Kindness John G. Monlton, Esq. ADDRESS FROM HAVERHILL, ENGLAND, TO HAVERHILL, MASSACHUSETTS, brought to this country by Hon. Daniel Gurteen, Jr., Chair- man of the Local Board of the EngHsh town, on the occasion of the two hundred and fiftieth anniversary of our town, in 1890. It is now in the Haverhill (Massachusetts) Public Library. Another document sent by the English town twenty-five years later hangs in the Mayor's ofhce in the City Hall of our Haverhill. 82 HAVERHILL, MASSACHUSETTS Photographed by J. H. Godden Kindness Ian Forbes-Robertson, Esq. SHIELD SENT BY HAVERHILL, MASSACHU- SETTS, TO HAVERHILL, ENGLAND, IN 1890, where it now hangs in the Town Hall. It is made of wood from an old oak tree that grew on the place in Haverhill where Whittier was born. afford real pleasure not only to myself but to the people whom I have the honor to represent to have Old Haver- hill over the sea represented on that occasion, I take great pleasure in ex- tending to you the freedom of the city during that event, and in inviting yourself and lady to be the guests of the city on that occasion. Hoping that you will favor us with your presence, and that we shall receive an early acceptance of the formal invi- tation that will be forwarded to your Honor in a few days, I am yours truly, Thomas E. Biirnham, Mayor of Haverhill, Mass. U.S.A." The Englishman brought with him the following congratulatory ad- dress, very attractively gotten up and signed by the town officers, ministers and citizens of his town; it is now in our Haverhill Public Library : — "To THE HONOURABLE THE MaYOR, THE City Council and citizens OF Haverhill, Massachusetts, in THE United States of America: We, the undersigned local authori- ties, public officers, and citizens of the ancient mother town of Haverhill, in the counties of Suffolk and Essex, in England, desire to convey to you our friendly greeting and hearty congratulation upon the celebration of the 250th anniversary of the settlement, in the year a.d. 1640, by John Ward, a native of this place, and others who accompanied him from the Old World to the New. We thank you for the opportunity of being represented on this auspicious occasion, not merely as an acknowledgment of the natural tie which exists between our respective communities, but also as a proof of the kindly spirit which prevails on your side towards us here. We assure you that your good will is most cordially reciprocated, and that we highly appre- ciate the kind invitation extended to us through our representative; and we trust that his visit may still further promote friendly relations of an abiding kind. We rejoice with you at the continued progress of your city, and earnestly hope that it is destined to enjoy still greater prosperity, so that its future may be even brighter than its past, and that it may steadily grow in everything conducive to the welfare of its citizens and the advance- ment of our common civilization. Dated this 27th day of May, 1890." In recognition of the courtesy shown by the English town and in memory of the visit of Mr. Gurteen and his daughter, our city of Haverhill sent to the English HAVERHILL, MASSACHUSETTS 83 town a medallion, a shield in the form of the coat of arms of the Commonwealth of Mas- sachusetts, carved in wood from an old oak tree that grew on the place in Haver- hill where Whittier was born, with the city seal in the center and smaller carved medallions in the corners. It now hangs in the Town Hall of the Eng- lish Haverhill. An album was also sent to Mr. Gurteen con- taining photographs of some of the prominent citizens of the Massachusetts city. Hon. William H. Moody, afterwards Secretary of the Navy, Attor- ney-General and Justice of the Supreme Court of the United States, was one of the Committee appointed to pre- sent these gifts. These presents were received with a great deal of ceremony at a large recep- tion held in the Town Hall and acknowledgment was sent to our city later. Details of these English proceedings and of the Haverhill celebration are given in "The Story of a New England Town" pub- lished in 1 89 1, which gives all the correspondence and an ac- count of Mr. Gurteen 's visit, with copies of articles from the papers of Haverhill, Eng- land. The Haverhill Public Library treasures several auto- graphed letters of Mr. Gurteen which were sent to residents From a photograph Kindness John G. Moulton, Esq. MEMORIAL TABLET IN THE PARISH CHURCH, HAVERHILL, ENGLAND, erected to Rev. John Ward, grandfather of Rev. John Ward who was the first minister of Haverhill, Massachusetts. A drawing made from the original tablet is owned by the Haver- hill, Massachusetts, Public Library, and is loaned to the Haverhill Historical Society. The inscription is in the text. Haverhill, Massachusetts, was so named in honour of Rev. John Ward, who, born in the town of the same name in Eng- land, settled on the banks of the Merrimac soon after 1640. 84 HAVERHILL, MASSACHUSETTS of Haverhill, Massachusetts, in 1891 and 1892, and it also has received news- papers, books and other presents which have come across the ocean as gifts from the English Haverhill. On the occasion of the two hundred and fiftieth anniversary, cables were interchanged between the two Haverhills and at the anniversary banquet an address was made by Hon. Leverett Saltonstall of Boston, a descendant of Richard Saltonstall, who was very active in the early days of our Haverhill and who was descended from Rev. John Ward, Nathaniel Saltonstall having married a daughter of John Ward. Whittier wrote a poem for the occasion which was read at the literary exercises, in which he alluded to old Haverhill, as follows: — "We see, their rude-built huts beside, Grave men and women anxious-eyed. And wistful youth remembering still Dear homes in England's Haverhill." In 1915 when our Haverhill commemorated its two hundred and seventy-fifth anniversary, there was another exchange of greetings between the two Haverhills and at this time the Enghsh town sent a very attractive document which has been framed and which now hangs in the Mayor's Office, City Hall. Hon. Albert L. Bartlett was Mayor of our Haverhill at that time and wrote an account of old Haverhill in which we have found much of interest. The first part of the name is derived from the Anglo-Saxon "hoefer" meaning a "he-goat." In the old records the name is spelled "Haverell" or "HaverhuU." The town is situated partly in Essex County and partly in Suffolk County, about fifty-five miles northeast of London and not far from Cambridge, High Street which runs through the town being part of an old Roman road connecting Cambridge and Colchester. Into this settlement the Huguenot, or Flemish, exiles brought the art of weaving three hundred and more years ago and on their hand looms was first woven the coarse homespun cloth of Hnen and wool. From these humble beginnings, however, have grown the present mills, employing many hundreds of operatives. The town is partly a manufacturing and partly an agricultural center and withal a market town; its annals, although interesting, contain no events of national importance. Messrs. Gurteen and Sons are the leading manufacturers of the Enghsh town, employing in their textile plant more than half of the population of forty-five hun- dred persons Hving there. The Town Hall was built in 1883 by the late Daniel Gurteen to commemorate his golden wedding and it was in this hall that the gifts sent to Haverhill, England, in September, 1890, were exhibited. Unfortunately the early records of the town perished in the fire of 1665. In 1881 Rev. F. T. Ingalls, a native of Haverhill, Massachusetts, visited the Enghsh Haverhill and wrote a letter describing the place, which was pubUshed in one of the newspapers of our city. HAVERHILL, MASSACHUSETTS 85 From a photosrapk Kindness John G. Moulton, Esq. PARISH CHURCH, HAVERHILL, ENGLAND, in which the original tablet, shown in another illustration, has been placed in memory of R^^'; J^^^ ^ard, "ranSer offerjohn Ward, first minister of Haverhill, Massachusetts. Th.s picture is m the Haverh.U Public Library, Haverhill, Massachusetts. The Indian name for the site of our city was 'Tentucket" and when it was settled in 1640 it was named HaverhiU in honour of its first mmister, Rev. John Ward, mentioned above, who was bom in HaverhiU, England, in 1606 and who was the son of Rev. Nathaniel Ward, first minister of our Ipswich. The home of John Ward, afterwards owned by the Saltonstalls, and the first framed house in the town (now a city), is still preserved on the exact spot on which it was orig- inally built in the sixteen hundred and forties, on the grounds of the Haverhill Historical Society. Over the mantel of the old house is a tablet which gives the history of the house and of the Saltonstall family and which also commemorates the fact that it was given to the Historical Society in memory of that family. In the Historical Society is a painting of the memorial tablet to John Ward's grandfather copied from the original in the Parish Church in Haverhill, England, the wordmg being as follows: — 86 HAVERHILL, MASSACHUSETTS From a photograph Kindness George Francis Dow, Est. WITHERSFIELD ROAD, HAVERHILL, ENGLAND John Warde after he with great evidence & power of ye spirit & with much fruit preached ye gospel at Haveril & Bury in Suff*^ 25 yeares was heere gathered to his fathers Susan his widdowe married Richard Rogers that worthie Pastor of Wethersfielde. He left 3 sonnes Samuel Nathaniel John preachers who for them & theirs wish no greater blessinge than yt they may continue in beleeveing and preaching the same Gospel till ye comming of Christ Come Lord Jesus come quicklye There is also a Haverhill in New Hampshire which took its name from Haver- hill, Massachusetts, for the reason that the first white persons who permanently occupied its territory came from that town about 1761. 87 HULL, MASSACHUSETTS HULL, Massachusetts, was undoubtedly named for Hull, England. It will be remembered that the passengers on the "Mary and John" were put ashore here at Nantasket Point, her captain leaving the " Godly families from Devonshire and Dorsetshire" to shift for themselves. Roger Clap later on took some of his shipmates up the river to Watertown. Among the first permanent settlers of our Hull was John Prince, an exile in Cromwell's day. Hull, England, officially known as Kings ton-upon-Hull, is the third port of the United Kingdom, and was founded by King Edward I in 1296. From 1598 to 1865 this seaport engaged in the whale fishery, and has the distinction of being the first port to dispatch to the fishing grounds a steam-whaler, which was called the Diana. This city has several features of historical interest, mainly connected with the struggle for civil and rehgious freedom in the seventeenth century. At the opening of the contest between Charles I and his parliament the King failed in his attempt to win over the city of York and, indeed, narrowly escaped capture. He fled in haste to Hull, confidently expecting its gates to open to him and to have there a base for further operations. A severe blow was dealt at the royalist cause when the citizens stoutly refused entrance to him, closed the gates, and declared for the Parliament. James II, perhaps in revenge for his father's rebuff, took from the city its charter and everything else he could lay his hands on, just as he did from London, when the Lord Mayor of that City was so overcome that he fell upon his knees crying cynically, "Will your Majesty please leave us the Thames? " This, like all James' arbitrary acts, was reversed when William of Orange ascended the throne with Queen Mary. It is not as widely known as it should be how closely Hull was associated with the Pilgrim Fathers. The earliest exiles for religious liberty were drawn from Gainsborough and its neighborhood, little more than thirty miles from Hull. Their immediate objective was Holland, for which country there were two possible places of embarkation — Boston and the estuary of the Humber. In 1609 they made the attempt by Boston, were betrayed by a ship's captain, arrested and cast into prison. Being eventually Hberated, they repeated the venture the following year, led by John Bradford, the future Governor, and Elder Brewster. This time they were, at least, partially successful. Their leaders escaped from a creek op- posite Hull and the rest followed later in separate groups, mostly from the same estuary. Amongst the most courageous and determined of the Pilgrims who twelve years later sailed from Delf shaven were those who had come from the Gainsborough district. From Hull sailed the Rev. Ezekiel Rogers, Rector of the nearby village of 88 HULL, MASSACHUSETTS Photographed by Ttirner &* Drinkwater Kindness Ian Forbes-Robertson, Esq. HULL, ENGLAND, showing Princes Dock. Hull is the third port of importance in the United Kingdom. Rowley, who is described under our article on that place. Along with Rogers sailed the greater portion of his congregation. William Penn also made Hull his port of departure. Andrew Marvell, patriot, wit and satirist as well as earnest Puritan, whose statue now occupies an honoured place in the city, was the son of a Puritan clergy- man of Hull. He became Latin Secretary to Cromwell, along with John Milton, and represented Hull in Parliament from 1660 to the end of his life in 1678. In still later days Hull was the birthplace and home of William Wilberforce, whose name will ever be associated with the abolition of slavery in the British dominions. His residence, once the home of a Puritan Mayor of the city, is still preserved in its original state. It is now used as a museum and is full of deeply interesting mementos both of the slave trade and the city's history. Wilberforce's memorial — a lofty pillar on a massive pediment crowned with his statue — is in the very heart of the city. In prehistoric times the district embracing Hull was inhabited by a race of Celts called "Dolicho-Cephaloid," these Greek words merely meaning "Long- Heads," still a characteristic of Yorkshiremen. Then came the Brigantes, or high- landers, named in Juvenal as the most numerous and important of the British tribes, which were the last of the ancient Britons to submit to the Romans. HULL, MASSACHUSETTS 89 At a meeting held in Hull, England, recently, a fund, the equivalent of about one hundred and fifty dollars, was raised for the erection of a monument at Killing- holme to commemorate the spot whence most of the Pilgrims left for Holland. IPSWICH, MASSACHUSETTS " I love to think of old Ipswich town, Old Ipswich town in the East countree, Whence, on the tide, you can float down Through the long salt grass to the wailing sea, Where the ' Mayflower ' drifted off the bar, Sea-worn and weary, long years ago, And dared not enter, but sailed away Till she landed her boats in Plymouth Bay. I love to think of old Ipswich town; Where they shut up the witches until the day When they should be roasted so thoroughly brown. In Salem village, twelve miles away; They've moved it off for a stable now; But there are the holes where the stout jail stood, And at night, they say, that over the holes You can see the ghost of Goody Coles. I love to think of old Ipswich town; That house to your right, a rod or more, Where the stern old elm trees seem to frown If you peer too hard through the open door. Sheltered the regicide judges three When the royal sheriffs were after them, And a queer old villager once I met. Who says, in the cellar, they're Hving yet. I love to think of old Ipswich town; There's a graveyard up on the old High Street, Where ten generations are looking down On the one that is toihng at their feet; Where the stones stand shoulder to shoulder, Hke troops Drawn up to receive a cavalry charge. And graves have been dug in graves, till the sod Is the mould of good men gone to God." (The above are some of the verses of a poem written by James Appleton Morgan, entitled "Ipswich Town.") THERE are probably few residents of Ipswich, Massachusetts, who are aware of the fact that the clock now in the Chapel of the First Church, marked "Moore, Ipswich," was a present sent by the English town from which Ips- wich got its name. It was sent over, together with some photographs of old Ipswich, by Sir Daniel Goddard of the Congregational Church of Ipswich, England, just 90 IPSWICH, MASSACHUSETTS after the celebration of the two hundred and fiftieth anniversary of the incorporation of the Mas- sachusetts town held in 1884, and with it came a cable of congratu- lations given below. Sir Daniel Goddard, M.P., was a guest of the town, and only a short time ago Hon. William F. Paul, for- merly Mayor of old Ipswich, sent to the Historical Society of the Massachusetts town several vol- umes of illustrations of ancient buildings of his town and an elaborate portfolio containing a copy of the proclamation of King Edward VII. In return the new Ipswich sent a history of the town written by the late Rev. Thomas Franklin Waters, A.M., President of the Historical So- ciety. On the anniversary of the Massachusetts town, above referred to, in 1884, a letter was read from the Mayor of Ipswich, England, part of which is as follows : — ' ' I regret it is not in my power to be present at the celebration of the two hundred and fiftieth anniversary of the incorporation of the town of Ipswich, Mass., as my mayoralty duties entirely prevent my being absent from home for any long period during my year of office. I should have returned thanks for old Ipswich among some of the descendants of those who emigrated from their native land in order that they might have freedom to carry out their political and religious opinions, which was denied them in England. . . . Wishing that your enterprising town may increase and prosper, and ever be celebrated for its civil and religious Uberty. Yours faithfully, John May, Mayor of Ipswich, England. To John Heard, Esq., of the Committee of Arrangements." The following was the cable received from the Corporation of Ipswich, conveying congratulations : — Photographed by George G. Dexter, Ipswich, Massachusetts Kindness Francis R. Appleton, Esq., Joseph I. Norton, Esq. and the late T. Franklin Waters CLOCK PRESENTED TO THE FIRST CHURCH OF IPSWICH, MASSACHUSETTS, by Sir Daniel Goddard of the Congregational Club of Ipswich, England, in 1884. IPSWICH, MASSACHUSETTS 91 From an old print Owned by Allan Forbes ST. MATTHEW'S GATE, IPSWICH, SUFFOLK, ENGLAND "Aug. 15, 1884. The Corporation of Ipswich, England, send their hearty congratulations to the Corpora- tion of Ipswich, Mass., on the celebration of the two hundred and fiftieth anniversary of their incorporation, and wish them continued prosperity. Mayor of Ipswich, England." This letter and cablegram were both read at the celebration, an answering cable being sent as follows: — "The town of Ipswich, celebrating its two hundred and fiftieth anniversary, sends thanks to Mother Ipswich for her kindly greeting and best wishes for her continued prosperity." The most recent visitor from the English Ipswich was Rev. John A. Patten, minister of the Tacket Street Congregational Church, of which one of the congre- gation is Arthur Goddard, son of Sir Daniel, who has always taken such a great interest in the New England Ipswich. The English Ipswich was a great coaching center and the Bull Inn, Whitechapel, London, was one of the taverns at which the Ipswich coaches put up for the night. It was from there that Mr. Pickwick set out, who quotes Tony Weller as saying just before the coach left the courtyard, "Take care o' the archway, genTmen." This Inn for a long time belonged to the Nelson family, which was a noted race of inn and coach proprietors, and at one time was managed by Mrs. Ann Nelson upon the 92 IPSWICH, MASSACHUSETTS Frnm a -phntn^raph by W. Do-unfs Kindness Ian Forbes-Robertson, Esq. GREAT WHITE HORSE HOTEL, IPSWICH, ENGLAND, of Pickwick fame. A model was sent to the Chicago Exposition. death of her husband. In her coaching speculations she was usually associated with a pastry cook who owned a Httle shop adjoining the gateway of the "Bull," and who often complained of being interrupted in his work when a new hand on one of the coaches sent the nose of one of his leaders through his shop window, the gate being very narrow and Mrs. Nelson's coachmen not being very deliberate. This woman coach proprietor was a martinet, and spared neither herself nor her servants, up to her seventieth year being the last up at night and the first up in the morning. Her team of "Ipswich Blues," as they were called, was famous even after an opposi- tion coach was started. The proprietress insisted on rigid punctuahty, and if a coachman brought one of her crack coaches into the yard five minutes late, he received a severe reprimand; if he were ten minutes late, he was fined half a crown; and if he were one-quarter of an hour late, he stood a good chance of being dis- missed from service. Once when she was called into Court, the Chairman of the Bench said to her, "I understand that you give your coachmen instructions to race the rival coach." "Not exactly," she replied. "My orders to them are simply that they are to get the road and keep it." Towards the year 1830, there was a whisper of coming changes, and the coachmen and travelers talked in the stable- IPSWICH, MASSACHUSETTS -^ 93 yard and in the cozy rooms of the "Bull" of men with strange instruments encount- ered along the road; "chaps with telescopes on three sticks and other chaps with chains and things measuring the fields." The Eastern Counties Railway was being projected to run from London to Colchester, Norwich and Yarmouth, and the days of the coaches were to be no longer. Ipswich is the front door of East Anglia, which means the eastern part of Eng- land. It was here that Daniel Defoe, the author of "Robinson Crusoe," stayed for a short time, mentioning that he found "very agreeable and improving com- pany almost of every kind." Here is the Great White Horse Tavern where Pick- wick accidentally encountered the elderly lady in the yellow curl-papers; his bed- room No. 36 is still preserved, and although the Tavern has been much changed, over the entrance still stands the "white painted stone statue of some rampageous animal with flowing mane and tail, distantly resembhng an insane cart-horse." Dickens does not give a very favorable description of this Tavern, for he stated that "the Great White Horse is famous in the neighborhood in the same degree as a prize ox, or county paper-chronicled turnip or unwieldy pig — for its enormous size." This amusing account of the place, however, made it all the more popular. King George II visited this noted Tavern in 1736, as also did Louis XVIII, King of France, as he passed through the town. It may be interesting to Americans to know that a model of this building was exhibited at the Chicago World's Fair, The greatest treasure, however, possessed by Ipswich is "The Ancient House," in the Buttermarket, in which King Charles II sought refuge when he was flee- ing from the Parhamentary Army. Cardinal Wolsey was born in Ipswich, and connected with the town are the names of Clara Reeves; Gainsborough, the artist, who Hved there for some time; also David Garrick, the actor, who made his debut there in 1740. The Duke of Buckingham, known as the "Great Duke," visited the town, which is really most attractive, but his account of it was not very inspir- ing, for he wrote that it "was a town without inhabitants, a river without water, streets without names, and where the asses wore boots." It used to be called Gippeswiche from the river Gipping and "Wick" meaning creek or haven for ships. Captain John Smith mentioned our Agawam as early as 16 14, stating that Prince Charles changed its name to Southampton and this name actually appears on Smith's map. The first real history of our Ipswich, called on the seal of the town "Birthplace of American Independence," began in 1620 when we learn that some of the Pilgrim colony, before settling here "urged greatly the going to Angoan, Anguum or Angoum, meaning 'Agawam' a place twenty leagues off to the north- ward which they heard to be an excellent harbour for ships, better ground and bet- ter fishing." Of course, in respect to the harbour they were very much mistaken. Ten years later a messenger was sent to Agawam with a message saying "a war- From a photograph by W. Dowries Kindness Ian Forbes-Ru THE ANCIENT HOUSE, IPSWICH, ENGLAND, in which King Charles II sought refuge when he was fleeing from the ParUamentary Army. It is one of the chief objects of interest in the town. IPSWICH, MASSACHUSETTS 95 rant shall be presently sent to Agawam for those planted there, to come away." Three years later we learn that the Court of Assistance ordered that a plantation be begun here as it was the best place in the land for tillage and cattle, lest an enemy finding it should take possession from them. John Winthrop, Jr., was instructed to undertake the settlement and it was suggested that twelve men should go with him to assist him. In 1634, Rev. Nathaniel Ward, the son of John Ward, of Ipswich, England, and his friends, came to the town and ordered the name changed to Ipswich, after the town of the same name in England, in honour of Ward and also "in acknowledgment of the great honour and kindness done to our people who took shipping there." The Court believed that the town was large enough to give up the Indian name. Another reason for the change in name was the resemblance of the approach to our Ipswich to the territory near old Ipswich on the river Orwell. Nathaniel Ward bore one of the best known names in the early history of New England, having been born in Haverhill, England, in 1570, where his father had been a clergyman. It is interesting also to mention that he was granted six hundred acres of land by the General Court in Haverhill in Massachusetts, then called "Pentucket," where his son was later a minister. He wrote several books, the best known being called "The Simple Cobler of Aggawam in America," which was meant to be a lesson to the early colonists and to accompHsh his purpose he chose to write about the cobbler, describing him as "willing to mend his Native Country, lamentably tattoed, both in the upper leather and sole, with all the honest stitches he can take." Nathaniel Rogers, who was also born in Haverhill, England, was another promi- nent person in the early history of our Ipswich. The Rogers family held a place of great distinction both in this town and in the Colony, John Rogers, the son of Rev. Nathaniel Rogers, becoming President of Harvard College while the grandson of Rev. Nathaniel, also named John, was a minister at Ipswich. Therefore, grand- father and grandson between them held the pastorate of the Ipswich Church for seventy years. The Ipswich Historical Society has erected tablets in a small triangle in the South Common, in memory of Nathaniel Ward, Nathaniel Rogers and Richard Saltonstall, another early settler, and two of the inscriptions on the south side of the tablet, which stands in front of the South Church, read as follows: — ON THE EAST SIDE OF THE COMMON WAS THE HOUSE OF REV. NATHANIEL WARD 1634 MINISTER OF IPSWICH 1 63 7 AUTHOR OF "the SIMPLE COBLER OF AGGAWAM " COMPILER OF THE BODY OF LIBERTIES 96 IPSWICH, MASSACHUSETTS Photographed by Gf 'S Francis R. Appleton, Esq., and Joseph I. Norton, Esq. TABLET ON THE SOUTH GREEN, IPSWICH, MASSACHUSETTS, placed there in memory of Ezekiel Cheever, first master of the Grammar School; also as a memorial of Rev. Nathaniel Ward's first house nearby, and also to commemorate the early houses of Richard Saltonstall and Rev. Nathaniel Rogers, both early settlers in this New England town. THE RESIDENCE OF RICHARD SALTONSTALL WAS ON THE SOUTH SIDE OF THE COMMON AND THAT OF REV. NATHANIEL ROGERS PASTOR OF IPSWICH CHURCH 1638-1655 WAS ON THE WEST SIDE The oldest house in the town, now known as the Burnham House, was built in 1640 by Thomas Hart of England, soon after his arrival in this country. Several of the old rooms are still in their original condition and afford much interest to the sight- seer who stops here. One of the streets of Ipswich which leads from the town to Castle Hill, the place originally granted to John Winthrop, Jr., now owned by Richard T. Crane of Chicago, is called ''Argilla Road," after the estate in Eng- land owned by the Symonds family which settled here. The present High Street was once called Pudding Street, the origin of its name being told in a legendary poem written by J. K. F.:- 'I can remember very well A tale the old folks used to tell, Of how a street, well known to fame, Received its somewhat curious name. The oven, then, so long ago. Was bailt outside the house, and so While the good wife was getting dinner. There came along a tramping sinner. Who, having not the fear of man, Opened the oven door and ran. The pudding had so much of heat. He quickly dropped it in the street. IPSWICH, MASSACHUSETTS 97 And fearing in that place to stay, Kicked it before him on his way. The pudding bag, so stout at first, By violence at last was burst, And ever since that wicked feat, The thoroughfare is Pudding Street." Another fact of interest to Americans and Britons alike is that the ancestors of the late Joseph H. Choate lived in Ipswich, Massachusetts, a member of the family still residing here near the town on Hog Island, often referred to as Choate Island, which is also owned by Richard T. Crane of Chicago. The town of Ipswich is responsible for the settlements of Chebacco, which when incorporated was called Essex; and Hamilton, which was first called "The Hamlet." LANCASTER, MASSACHUSETTS IN 1 9 13 the mother town of Lancaster sent the following message of good wishes to her daughter on this side of the ocean: — "TO The Selectmen, Officials and Inhabitants of the Town of Lancaster, Mas- sachusetts. At a meeting of the Town Council of the Borough of Lancaster in the County of Lan- caster England held on Wednesday the 24th day of September 1913 the following resolu- tion was passed unanimously: — 'That the Mayor, Aldermen and Burgesses of the Borough of Lancaster in Council assembled heartily reciprocated on behalf of the Burgesses and Inhabitants of this County Town the greetings so well expressed in the resolution of the daughter Town of Lancaster Massachusetts . . . and wish that all prosperity may in the future attend the Selectmen, Officials and Inhabitants of that Town.' The Common seal of the Corporation of Lancaster England was hereunto affixed in the presence of C. F. Seward, Mayor.'" Some authorities claim that Edward Breck was the earliest settler in this Bay State town, but such is not the case, for this honour belongs to John Pres- cott, who was not only the earliest settler here but was also the founder of the town. Others interested in its early success were Thomas King, Harmon Garrett of Charlestown, Thomas Skidmore of Cambridge and Stephen Daye, who, it will be remembered, was the first printer in Cambridge. Prescott, how- ever, was the only one to take up his residence here. They expressed the wish that the town should be called "Prescott" in honour of John Prescott and later suggested it might be named "West Town." The people of Lancaster have remembered the founder of their towm by a slate tablet near his grave in Old Burying Field which records in the words of the late Senator George F. Hoar: — 98 LANCASTER, MASSACHUSETTS m i- Photographed from a print Owned by Allan Forbes SOUTH VIEW OF THE GATEWAY TOWER OF LANCASTER CASTLE, LANCASTER, ENGLAND The castle is the chief object of interest in Lancaster, being now used as a Jail. Here with his children about him lies John Prescott founder of Lancaster and first settler of Worcester County '. born at Standish, Lancashire, England Died at Lancaster, Massachusetts, December, 1681. Inspired by the love of liberty and the fear of God this stout-hearted pioneer forsaking the pleasant vales of England took up his abode in the unbroken forest and encountered wild beast and savage to secure freedom for himself and his posterity. His faith and virtues have been inherited by many descendants who in every generation have well served the state in war, in literature, at the bar, in the pulpit, in public life, and in Christian homes. LANCASTER, MASSACHUSETTS 99 This tablet was set in place in time for the two hundred and fiftieth anniversary of Lancaster's incorporation, in 1903. In this cemetery are also the graves of Jonathan Fairbanks, formerly of Dedham, and his wife, who was Lydia Prescott, daughter of this first settler, their marriage being the first recorded within the limits of Lancaster. One year after the incorporation of the town came Rev. Joseph Rowlandson, then John Whiting, and later on, in 1793, Rev. Nathaniel Thayer, Edward Hamilton Sears and George M. Bartol, whose descendants have been prominent citizens of Massa- chusetts. There is also a Lancaster in New Hampshire. Tradition says that the Eng- Hsh Lancaster was once a Roman station and later was used as a fort by the Saxons. On a hill in the town stands Lancaster Church, and near its site Agri- cola more than two thousand years ago planned his second year's campaign in Britain and from there also he directed the march of his Roman legions. A thousand years later came Roger of Poictou, a Norman Baron, who recognized the military importance of the town and erected there a great keep. In later years the town for two centuries was the center of Norman chivalry; it was there, too, that John of Gaunt held his Court, which in pomp rivaled that of the King himself ; it was from there also that many edicts of great importance were issued, and through its castle walls rode many a gallant herald carrying tidings of peace or war. In fact few towns can claim a greater connection with royalty than Lancaster. The Scots attacked the fortress of Lancaster innumerable times, and in 13 14, after the defeat of Edward II at Bannockburn, they burned the town and succeeded PhiiVigraphed hy James Macdonald PRESCOTT TABLET IN OLD BURYING-FIELD, LANCASTER, MASSACHUSETTS, in memory of John Prescott of Lancashire, England, founder of the New England Lancaster, and first settler of Worcester County. loo LANCASTER, MASSACHUSETTS in partially destroying the Castle. During the Wars of the Roses, it was alter- nately occupied by both parties and there not infrequently monarchs took refuge. At one period Court was held there,, parts of the Castle being used as a prison. It was in 17 15 that the prisoners of the Castle, climbing to the parapets, watched and cheered the Scottish Army as it captured the town. After a ceremony, during which the Stuart Pretender was proclaimed King, the soldiers dispersed to seek quarters, and a council was held that night to decide whether the prisoners at the Castle should be released. It was decided to set free those on the Crown side. On the following day the officers, after attending service at the Lancaster Church, "dressed and trimed themselves up in their best cloathes for to drink a dish of tea with the Ladys of this town." We are told that "the Ladys also here appeared in their best riging, and had their tea tables richly furnished for to entertain their new suitors." It is further related that the swains left the town very reluctantly, as they did not wish to part with their new loves. The last hostile army to enter Lancaster was that of Bonnie Prince Charlie, known as the Young Pretender, who marched through the town on November 24, 1745. LINCOLN, MASSACHUSETTS HISTORY tells us that the part of England between the Wash and the river Humber, whence came the pioneers of our Lincoln, was wrested from the Britons and occupied by the tribe of Angs, or Angles, from which the word "England" is derived. "Lindum Coloniae" (or "Colonia") was the name given to Lincoln by the Romans, who while possessing it surrounded the place by strong walls and made it one of the chief seats of Roman power in that section of the island. During the Saxon period it was the capital of Mercia and in 786 was subjected to assault by the Danes. Lincohi is one of the most important cities in England, so important, in fact, that at one time it rivaled London, as these lines show us: — , "Lincoln was, London is, and York shall be, The greatest city of the three." It is situated on a hill, overlooking the lowlands of England's eastern coast, and the high towers of the cathedral are most impressive. The river Witham flows by the city on its way to Boston and at one time was noted for its fish, if we believe the following fines written about the river: — "Wytham eel and Ancum pike: In all the world there is no syke" (such). When Phillips Brooks visited Lincoln, England, he said, "Be proud of your City, and show your pride of her by seeking to become worthy of her." LINCOLN, MASSACHUSETTS lOI tr^iu ui. 0.. print O'lned oy AlLn Forbes Formerly in the collection of J. II. Seer.i, Essex, England LINCOLN, ENGLAND, FROM THE RIVER WITHAM In 1896 a band of Pilgrims from the United States, headed by the Rev. Dr. Dunning of our Boston, visited Lincoln, England (which claims John Robinson as its own), and other towns associated with the Pilgrim Church, being particularly impressed by the cathedral, which is the pride of Lincoln and which Ruskin claimed was the most precious piece of architecture in the British Isles. Work on this edifice was begun in 1075 by Bishop Remigius but was not completed until the fourteenth century. The burial at Lincob of St. Hugh of Avalon, who was made bishop in 1186, was attended by two kings and many other notables of that day. It may be interesting to remind Americans that Tennyson, the poet, was born near Lincoln and that a statue has been erected to his memory in the close of the cathedral. It is also noteworthy that there is a Bunker Hill about a mile from the city. Our Lincoln was not set apart as a town until 1754, when the Honourable Chambers Russell, whose ancestors had come from Lincolnshire, England, persuaded the legislature to call it Lincoln after the EngUsh city. Rev. William Lawrence, the first minister, John Hoar, Edward Flint, Stephen Weston and Benjamin Brown were very helpful to the Colony in the early days. Chambers Russell was honoured by being allowed to choose the first pew in the church. Edward Flint came over to Concord in 1636 with his family, and his will was the first one recorded in Middlesex County records, Cambridge. The family place on the Lexington road, we believe, has never gone out of the possession of a member I02 LINCOLN, MASSACHUSETTS From a photograph by S Smith, Lincoln, England Kindness Ian Forbes-Robertson, Esq. A VIEW ON CASTLE HILL, LINCOLN, ENGLAND of this family. Lincoln was often called in jest "Niptown" by the surrounding communities, which claimed that it was made up by "nipping off" the best parts of three or four other towns. There are also places by the name of Lincoln in Maine, New Hampshire. Rhode Island and Vermont. LONDONDERRY, NEW HAMPSHIRE jk T the one hundred and fiftieth anniversary of the founding of this New /% Hampshire town, Rev. Dr. William McClure of Londonderry, Ireland, Jl. a. was invited to attend the ceremony and the following reply was received by R. C. Mack, Esq., Secretary of the Celebration Committee: — "Londonderry, Ireland, June 3, 1869. My dear Sir: — • I have been from home some time, attending the meetings of the General Assemblies in Edinburgh. This must be my apology for not writing to you sooner. However de- hghtful it would be to be present at your one hundred and fiftieth anniversary, I must LONDONDERRY, NEW HAMPSHIRE T03 From a print dated 1814 AN IRISH JAUNTING CAR deny myself the pleasure. My occupations at home are so pressmg and numerous that I cannot leave. The citizens of the parent Londonderry, in Ireland, will be greatly mterested in your proceedings, and we trust everything will go on prosperously and well. 1 will be very glad to have, either by letter or newspaper, an account of the ceremonies. Very sincerely yours, William McClure." Invitations were also sent to the Mayor and Aldermen of Londonderry, Ireland. In April, 17 19, sixteen Scotch-Irish families came over from the north of Ire- land and they were followed within a short time by many others, their reason for migrating to this country being to secure more religious liberty. It can, therefore, be said that they played the same part in Ireland that the Puritans did in Eng- land in relation to the new country. The newcomers spent their first winter in the harbour near Portland, Maine, where they suffered great hardship, as their vessel was frozen in the ice and it was difficult to procure supplies. When spring came, however, they wandered to the territory called by them "Londonderry" from the town of the same name in Ireland, so well known to them. The first thing they did was to purchase from John Wheelwright the title to these lands that had been purchased by his family from the Indians a long time before; it was in this way that they became possessors of this territory which was at that time called "Nutfield," t--*v LONDONDERRY, NEW HAMPSHIRE 105 on account of its many chestnut-trees. The name Londonderry was given in 1722. The early days brought many hardships to these settlers. They were once at- tacked by an armed party in the hope of dispossessing them by force from the newly acquired property. At the time of this raid they were attending church services and it is said that the gallant Londonderry clergyman threw off his coat and offered to lead the attack should the enemy persist in trying to drive out the congregation. It is also said that the first minister, Rev. Mr. MacGregor, always carried his loaded gun into the pulpit and it is believed that this weapon is still in the possession of one of the citizens of the nearby city of Manchester, New Hampshire. It may be interesting to give the names of some of the distinguished families of our Londonderry. Among them were the Morrisons, MacGregors, McKeans, Duncans, Greggs, Bells, Pattersons and Dinsmores. It is also worthy of men- tion that the well-known Elias Hasket Derby, who was born in Salem in 1803, lived for some time in this town. Among the articles on exhibition at the time of the anniversary in 1869 were plates brought over from Ireland in 1720 by some of the early emigrants, who soon after leaving the Irish coast were captured by pirates. A daughter was born to one of these emigrants on board the pirate vessel and these plates came into her possession and at the time of the celebration belonged to one of her descendants. There was also a powder-horn used at the siege of Derry, in Ireland, which was brought over by Rev. Mr. MacGregor. These early emigrants are said to have introduced the potato into New England in 17 19. The people of Londonderry are also responsible for the settlement of a number of other towns in New Hampshire, New York, Michigan and Nova Scotia. Londonderry in Vermont, formerly called Kent, owes its name to the original settlers most of whom came from Londonderry, New Hampshire, and it can, therefore, be said that the town owes its name, indi- rectly, to the Irish city. The ancient city of Londonderry, the capital of County Londonderry, Ireland, is situated on the river Foyle, about ninety-five miles northwest of Belfast. It was formerly called Derry, — a name derived from Doire, meaning the "place of oaks." The city owes its origin to the monastery which was founded there by Columba in 545. Like all towns of the British Isles, Derry suffered by the inroads of the Danes and was burned more than once by these invaders, but they were finally expelled by Murtagh O'Brian in the early part of the twelfth century. Its chief historic interest, however, centers around the "siege of Derry" in 1690, when the Irish Protestants successfully defended the town against the forces of James II. George Walker, the rector of Donaghmore, who with Major Baker had been chosen to govern the town, won lasting fame for himself by his bravery and hopefulness during this siege, and the famous reply of "no surrender" which was made to the enemy became the watchword of the men of Derry and has been accorded a place io6 LONDONDERRY, NEW HAMPSHIRE of honour in the annals of history. When the plucky garrison had almost reached its last extremity on the 30th of July, some ships broke through the obstruction across the harbour and brought relief to the suffering town. King William, as a recognition of the importance of the work of the inhabitants of "Old Londonderry" in this memorable siege, caused an act to be passed whereby those who partici- pated in the defense of the city, bearing arms, were thereafter to be exempt from taxation throughout the British dominions. Some of the settlers of London- derry, New Hampshire, were entitled to such exemption and availed themselves of their right until the Revolution. On the Royal bastion from which the men of Derry defied the enemy stands a tall column bearing a statue of Walker, in com- memoration of the siege. The anniversary of the relief is still celebrated. The ancient rampart, with its gates and bastions, which surrounds a section of Londonderry, and a few ancient houses with high, pyramidal gables, give the town an atmosphere of antiquity in spite of its numerous modern features. The indus- tries carried on there include the manufacture of linen, shipbuilding, iron foun- dries and fisheries. It is interesting to recall that the Cathedral, completed in 1633, was built by money subscribed from London. The town was a great port of emigration to the United States in the days before the transatlantic steamers came into operation, the emigrants sailing in "clippers" owned by Derry merchants. LYNN, MASSACHUSETTS IT is interesting to notice that the first visitor to England, according to some writers, from the territory that is now called Lynn, was probably Monto- wampate, the Indian chieftain, who lived here peacefully for some time with the new settlers, but, having been defrauded of twenty beaver skins by a trader in England, he journeyed to London in 1631, armed with a letter from Governor Winthrop to Emmanuel Downing of London. The redskin was received with much respect and was given the money for his furs, but not liking the English bill of fare, it is said that he returned to his native hunting ground to enjoy his clams and succotash. The first settlement in the town, which was called "Saugus" or "Saugust," was made nine years after the landing of the Pilgrims, and the first five men to whom is given the honour of making the settlement are Edmund and Francis Ingalls, William Dixey and John and William Wood. These pioneers were with Captain John Endicott's colony, which came to Salem in 1628 and, as it has been expressed, "strayed over" to Lynn the following year. They set out, we are told, from Salem with leave to go "where we would" and having discovered "a faire playne" lying between Salem and Charlestown, called Saugus, they took "peaceable possession." The organized settlement did not take place, however, until two years later. Edmund Ingalls came from Lincolnshire, England, in 1629, and was drowned in 1648, when he and his horse fell through the old Saugus Bridge. LYNN, MASSACHUSETTS 107 Some of the names connected with the early history of Lynn were Breed, Newhall, Mansfield, Burrill, Hood, Alley, Lewis, Fuller, Baker, Dexter and Bassett. In 1636, Rev. Samuel Whiting, who has been called the "Father of Lynn" and the "Angel of Lynn," was installed minister of the httle church at Saugus. He was born in Boston, England, and was the son of Sir John Whiting, who was twice Mayor of that town. Samuel's brother, John, was Mayor of Boston, England, in 1626, 1627, 1644 and 1645, that being the only instance of any man having been Mayor four times previous to the Municipal Act of 1835. Another brother, James, also was Mayor of Boston, in 1640. Rev. Mr. Whiting was Rector of St. Margaret's Church, Lynn Regis, and also of Skirbeck Church, Boston, England, but on account of his non-conformist tendencies he decided to come to this country, bringing with him his second wife, who was a daughter of Oliver St. John, Chief Justice of England at one time, and a cousin of Oliver Cromwell. In honour of this preacher the name of the town during the next year was changed from Saugus to Lynn, by order of the General Court, being recorded in these words, "Saugust is called Lin." Whiting on the voyage over said, "I would much rather under- go six weeks' imprisonment for a good cause, than six weeks of From a photograph Kindness Rev. William Appleton Lawrence, John Albree, Esq., and Walter R. Il'hiting, Esq. SHAFT OVER THE GRAVE OF REV. SAMUEL WHITING, THE FIRST MINISTER OF LYNN, MASSACHUSETTS, IN WEST LYNN CEMETERY, LYNN, MASSACHUSEiTS Rev. Samuel Whiting had been rector of St. Margaret's Church, Lynn Regis, England, a picture of which is shown in another illustration. io8 LYNN, MASSACHUSETTS Photographed by Amy E. Purdy, The Studio, King's Lynn Kindness L.n For.'-c-j-R.^. ST. MARGARET'S CHURCH, LYNN REGIS, ENGLAND, the church of which Rev. Samuel Whiting was Rector before coming to the New England Lynn, from this church was sent, in 1880, to St. Stephen's Church, in Lynn, Massachusetts. A stone such terrible sea-sickness." He lies buried in the old Western Burying-ground, Lynn, and a granite memorial shaft has been erected over his grave by Hon. William Whiting of our Boston. There are many of his descendants in different parts of this country. The Whiting family has been prominent in the history of old Boston and the neighborhood not only for generations but for centuries, for in a document known as the Subsidy Roll of Edward III (1333) occurs the name of William Whytynge. There have been many interchanges between the two places, and it is evident that the people of old Lynn were in sympathy with their kinsmen in the New World from the very first, for in the records of St. Margaret's Church in 1653 is the following entry: — "Collected for the natives and distressed people of Newe England, and that from house to house within the parrish, and paid unto Mr. Joshua Green, ald'n. the 20th of Nov. 1653, £25: 13:00" The comer-stone of the present St. Stephen's Memorial Church, formerly called St. Stephen's Church, and still before that, Christ Church, was laid in the year 1880. Several years previously Rev. Louis De Cormis, the Rector of the Parish at LYNN, MASSACHUSETTS ; ' ' Kindness Rev. JVilliam Appleton Lawrence '' ■''"''''' g^ STEPHEN'S CHURCH, LYNN, MASSACHUSETTS, which has a stone sent from St. Margaret's Church, Lynn Regis, England. that time, suggested that a block of stone from one of the churches in Lynn, Eng- and might be sent and inserted in the wall of his church and suitably mscribed. It warLrefore decided that Hon. Roland G. Usher, a former Mayor of our Lynn shouM^^^^^^^^ a letter from Rev. Mr. De Cormis to the English Rector, con- taining this suggestion. Part of this message read as follows:-^ ^^^^^ ^^^^^^ ^^^^^^ Oct. 29, 1879. forefathers in the great Ensl-h Chur h T^^^^^^^ .. ^^^^ ^^^^^^^ ^„ ^, ,„d ^collXl Srch^Sr^n/S asVurred ^^^-^:l:-^;:l:i:^C-^. Lrdtr:x*:ptr„fn:rrpr^^^^^^ and desirable thing to do." no LYNN, MASSACHUSETTS Kindness Rev. William Appleton Lawrence STONE SENT BY ST. MARGARET'S CHURCH, KING'S LYNN, of which Rev. Samuel Whiting, Lynn's first minister, was rector before coming to New England. This relic is now in St. Stephen's Church, Lynn, Massachusetts, having been procured from the English Church in 1880 by Hon. Roland G. Usher, and Rev. Louis De Cormis, once a minister of this church in our Lynn. A reply to this letter, dated June 28, 1880, read as follows: — ^^ Rev. and Dear Brother: My thanks are due to you for kindly introducing to me so pleasant and friendly a man as the Honourable R. G. Usher, and also for the kind and brotherly greeting contained in your letter. . . . Mr. Usher and I have selected a stone for your inter- esting purpose, from such fragments as were available in our grand old church. My only regret is that all the pieces were so small. I hope, however, that our inability to find a piece of stone better adapted for your wishes will not materially lessen the satisfac- tion of yourself and your Church people on the receipt of a relic which it has been a real pleasure to me to send. John Durst, Rector of North Lynn and Vicar of King's Lynn, England^' The stone, quarried during the eleventh century, was carefully selected by the English Rector and Mr. Usher from this building, which is the old parish church, and sent to this country where it now occupies a place of honour in St. Stephen's Memorial Church in our Lynn, and makes a very tangible link between the new and the old Lynn. It forms a part of a window- jamb and bears the following inscription on one side: — ST. Margaret's church, lynn, England TO ST. Stephen's church, lynn, mass, u. s. a. 28TH JUNE, 1880 The other side was left untouched as it had been for years. An inscription is also cut on a stone panel just below the shelf on which the stone is placed, as shown in the illustration on this page. At the laying of the corner-stone, Mr. Usher said in part: — "It comes as the expression of the interest and good will of the people of St. Mar- garet's — as a hnk to connect our Lynn with old King's Lynn in England. ... we pray LYNN, MASSACHUSETTS m that the record for the ages to come of St. Stephen's Memorial Church, may be for use- fubiess and influence equal to that of St. Margaret's." A formal resolution of thanks was adopted and sent across the water. A Centen- nial Memorial of Lynn, Massachusetts, was also sent over about this time, by Mr. Usher, to the Enghsh Lynn. The good will between the two places had been manifested also during the celebration of the two hundred and fiftieth anniversary of Lynn, Massachusetts, held in June, 1879, at which time an invitation was sent by Mayor George D. Sanderson to Mayor Thomas A. Seppings of Lynn Regis to be present. Although unable to accept, the EngUsh Mayor replied most cordially, sending his congrat- ulations and best wishes to our city. Another letter was received from Rev. Edward J. Alvis, Vicar of East Winch and a native of old Lynn, who also sent an interesting engraving of his town. Another resident of the English town, John Coulton, sent a poem written by himself and dedicated to our Lynn, which was read at the anniversary, the last stanza of which was: — "For each a happy future is in store, If wisdom's counsels shall unite the nations Firmer in friendship for our feuds of yore — Alone, unrivall'd in our lofty stations Old England new in brighter destinies, New England old in hallow'd memories." Still another letter was received from Robert Brooks in which he said in part:^ "Many of us when youths at school, scanning the map of the 'Young Giant' your country, have had our eyes drawn to 'Norfolk' and to 'Lynn' in a far distant land,— the names of our county and loved old town — we have wondered how it was, and at times with anxiety have wished to learn something of your history. At last kindly words 'have come across the sea.' You tell a tale of affection for one you were pleased to honour,— 'A beloved clergyman' who once claimed our home as his; in honouring him you honoured us. We now, in no formal words, Thank you." Another occasion of interest was the celebration by the Lynn Historical Society, called "King's Lynn Night," which was observed a few years ago with appropriate exercises, including lectures on historical subjects pertaining to the old Lynn, stere- opticon views of the places of interest and a description of the town by some of the citizens of new Lynn who had visited there. In the records of this society mention is made of a Queen Victoria Medal which was presented to the organization in 1899 through Mayor Walter S. Ramsdell, having been sent from old Lynn accom- panied by a letter from the Mayor. At this time it was also mentioned that St. Stephen's Church had been sent some small organ pipes from St. Margaret's Church, but as no inscriptions were placed upon them they cannot be identified. The first offspring of our Lynn was Reading, which became a separate township in 1644 and which is dealt with later on in this volume. Nahant was granted in 1622 by the Council in England to Captain Robert Gorges, who in turn gave part LYNN, MASSACHUSETTS 113 of the island and Saugus to John Oldham. Still later Nahant was purchased for the price of a suit of clothes by Thomas Dexter, who was then a farmer and who was one of the "ten men of Saugust" to found Sandwich in 1639. Even to this day the seal of Nahant depicts Dexter offering his suit of clothes to the Indian in exchange for the lands. In these early days and for many years there was a fence across Lynn Neck to keep in the cows and sheep that were pastured in Na- hant by the people of Lynn. It may be interesting also to record that in 1803 there were only five houses in Nahant, the Johnson family owning one of these. It is said that the wolf-pits of 1630 in the Lynn Woods are the oldest unchanged works of man in the Colony. The English town now called Lynn, on the river Ouse, was once named Bishop's Lynn, but was later changed to Lynn Regis, or King's Lynn, during the reign of Henry VIII. It is situated in the county of Norfolk and is especially famous for its fine churches, its Custom House and its Guildhall; it also has an excellent public Hbrary, the gift of Andrew Carnegie. Through the fourteenth century the town was given over almost entirely to religious orders, and many monasteries were built there, chiefly by the Franciscans, Augustinians and Domini- cans, the best known of aU these scholarly monks being John Capgrave, who wrote much poetry. Daniel Defoe visited the town in 1722 and described it as a "rich and populous port- town." Lynn rose rapidly from a marsh town to a seaport, still being an important port, as expressed in the following fines: — ' ' Rising was a sea-port town When Lynn was but a marsh; Now Lynn it is a sea-port And Rising fares the worse." The derivation of the name is from the Celtic "lyn," meaning a "lake," which referred to the sea which covered a large part of the immediate district called Marshland, now reclaimed. One of the chief events in the history of the borough was the Siege of Lynn, which occurred in the time of the conffict between Charles I and the Parfiamentary forces. The town, which sided with the Royafist cause, was fortified and awaited the attack by the Earl of Manchester. While divine worship was being held one day a cannon ball was sent through the church, scattering the congregation. This did not daunt them, however, for they said, "As soon might the Earl of Manchester raise his good father from the dead as force his entrance into Lynn." No help, however, came to the men who held the town and they were finally forced to surrender to the Parfia- mentary troops. It is told that OHver Cromwell, when a child, f eU into the Ouse and was pulled out by a Royafist parson who was fishing nearby. Years later when Oliver the Protector revisited the scenes of his youth with his triumphant army, he met his rescuer and 114 LYNN, MASSACHUSETTS asked him if he remembered the occurrence. "Truly do I," was the prompt reply, "and the Lord forgive me but I wish I'd let thee drown." Lynn's church was founded by Herbert de Losinga, the first Norman bishop of East Anglia, and is famous for two fine sepulchral brasses, one of which shows a wonderful feast, among the delicacies on the table being a peacock "that noble bird, the food of lovers and the meat of Lords." An attendant is shown bringing in the peacock, and one of the guests is depicted in the act of straddhng the table in his desire to obtain possession of it, while his neighbors remonstrate with him on his bad manners. The famous navigator George Vancouver, for whom Van- couver Island was named, was born in the English Lynn. Some one who visited the town remarked, "There's a bit o' life sometimes there," explaining further that he liked it very much as compared to the quiet coun- try, which he said was like "living in a teapot and 'peekin' at the world through the spout." Among the important people of our Lynn should be mentioned Joseph Rednap, the cooper, who established his business here in 1634; Francis Ingalls, who estab- lished in the town the first tannery; Philip Kertland, a shoemaker, John Adam Dagyr, who was called the "celebrated shoemaker of Essex," and who added a new chapter to the shoe industry by introducing the more skillful French method of making shoes, making footwear, it is said, for the brides of Boston. In these early days shoemaking was carried on in the homes. To the town also came from London William Rose, who understood the art of manufacturing morocco and who, it is claimed, was the first to set up this business in the town. The dies for the Pine Tree shillings were made at the Saugus Iron Works by Esther Jenkes, the wife of the Superintendent. These works were estabHshed in 1642 near the present site of Pranker's Mills and they laid the foundation for the iron industry of the United States. The first Superintendent was Joseph Jenkes, who on May 14, 1646, received, for a water wheel which he designed, the first patent granted on the continent of North America. Jenkes was also the inventor of the American scythe. In the Public Library of Lynn is exhibited an iron kettle which is supposed to represent the first iron casting made in the New World. In the early days the preachers frequently timed their sermons with an hour glass and on one occasion a minister is said to have remarked, "I know you are good fellows; stay and take another glass." IIS MALDEN, MASSACHUSETTS WE believe we can do no better than reproduce a letter written by Hon. Charles L. Dean, Mayor of Maiden, Massachusetts, to His Worship Edward A. Fitch, Mayor of Maldon, Essex, England, in reply to one received from Mr. Fitch on the occasion of the two hundred and fiftieth anniversary of the incorporation of our Maiden. With this letter from the English official came a short accoimt of his old borough, with a request for information in regard to our Maiden. This letter runs as follows: — - "Malden, IMass. May 13, 1899. Dear Sir; — Your valued communication of April 22nd duly received, also a copy of your book entitled Maldon and the Blackwater. I appreciate your kindness and am grateful for the trouble you have taken. I regret that you will not be able to be with us on our birth- day, but you may be assured that the people of Maiden in New England will not forget the old mother on the Blackwater at that time. Our historian has given me the following items of information in regard to the old settlers and I hope that you may be able to trace some of them as coming directly from your borough. A leader in the settlement of our town was Joseph Hills, who was married at Burstead Magna, Billericay, in 1624. He was of your parish of All Saints in 1631, and the births of his children are recorded there. In 1638 he came to New England with others. His son-in-law, John Wayte, who was a leading man here, was from Wethersfield, Essex. Another of our early settlers, Richard Pratt, is said to have been a son of John Pratt of your borough, where he was baptized in 161 5. The authority for this statement is not known. Salmon, History of Essex, 424, says that John Pratt, an alderman of Maldon, was buried in All Saints in 1619. Thomas Ruck, an early landholder but not a settler, is said to have come from Maldon. It may interest you to know that out of the httle settlement of 1649, which was named Maldon (now changed to Maiden) have grown three cities with an aggregate population of about seventy thousand people. Again expressing our regret that you will not be able to be present at our anniversary exercises, I am, with kind regards, Very truly yours, Charles L. Dean, Mayors The territory now included in Maiden, Everett and Melrose originally belonged to Charlestown and in 1634 it was known as "Mystic Side." The settlement of Maiden was actually made in 1640, but the town was not incorporated until 1649, when the following record appears: "In answer to the peticon of seull inhabitants of Misticke side their request is graunted, viz, to be a distinct towne of themselves & the name thereof to be Maulden." The name has been spelled Maldon, Mauldon, Maulden and Maiden. The town became a city in 1882. The first minister of the settlement was Marmaduke Matthews, who came from South Wales. At the two hundred and fiftieth anniversary of the incorporation of the town, St. Paul's Church exhibited a number of seals of England, and a sermon was at MALDEN, MASSACHUSETTS 117 Photographed by Hazeltine Frost, Glendale Studio, Maldon Kindness Ian Forbes-Robertson, Esq. ALL SAINTS CHURCH, MALDON, ESSEX, ENGLAND In the graveyard of this church Ue the remains of La^Yrence Washington, the great-grandfather of George Washington, and his burial record is in the register of the church. that time preached by Rev. WilUam Cunningham, Vicar of Great St. Mary's Church, Cambridge, England. Maldon, England, is in Essex County, about thirty-eight miles from London. It is said that once it had the distinction of being the real Camulodunum where King Arthur held his court, about which cluster the hnest tales of chivalry ever recorded. While Maldon does not insist on this ancient claim, it can stiU boast of bemg the oldest chartered city in the county of Essex. In the Saxon Chronicle there are two references to Maldon. In 913 King Edward the Elder, while fighting the Danes, encamped there with his forces, during the construction of a fortress, and there he fought a great battle, driving the enemy out of the to^^^l and slaying them by the thousands. In 920 Edward rebuilt :Maldon and raised and garrisoned a castle there. The death of a Saxon hero during this early conflict brought forth one of the gems of old Enghsh poetry,-" Brihtnoth's Death,"-that, even though imperfectly preserved dramatically relates the story of the Battle of Maldon. Many times did ii8 MALDEN, MASSACHUSETTS the Northmen invade the East Anglian shores, but after centuries under the con- flicting rule of four nations, Maldon passed through a period of peace sufficiently extended to enable the people to build churches. Before the Norman Conquest beautiful St. Mary's was erected, the tower of which fell in the seventeenth century, being rebuilt at the time of the emigration of the men who carried the name of Maldon into New England. Though a borough at the time of the Conquest, it is thought that the town's corporate existence must have begun under Saxon rule. The first recorded charter was granted in 1154 by Henry II. "Bloody Mary" gave a second charter in 1553 and in 1810 the present charter was granted. The three lions depicted on the shield of the old borough appear in the town and city seal of Maiden, Massachusetts. American travelers through Essex County, England, invariably visit the old churchyard of All Saints, Maldon, where rest the remains of George Washington's great-grandfather, Lawrence Washington, who held the living of Purleigh. His burial record is also in the register of All Saints, Maldon. MANCHESTER, NEW HAMPSHIRE THE one hundredth anniversary celebration of the naming of the city of Manchester, New Hampshire, was held in 1910, and on this occasion the Lord Mayor of Manchester, England, sent the following letter to Isaac Huse, Esq., President of the Manchester Historic Association: — ^^ My dear Sir: — Your interesting letter of the i8th May, informing me that one hundred years ago your town adopted the name of Manchester in the hope that it would attain a position of importance in manufactures and population, has given me great pleasure and I trust that your Centenary proceedings will prove a great success. Your expressions of goodwill towards us are much appreciated and reciprocated. I am, yours faithfully ^ Charles Behrens, Lord Mayor.'' The City Library in Manchester, New Hampshire, has exchanged reports and letters with the library in Manchester, England, and also contains about three hundred books, pamphlets, reports and histories relating to the antiquities of the English city and a description of the cotton industry for which that place is famous. Most of this collection came originally from the library of the late G. H. Adshead, Esq., of Manchester, England, being purchased from his nephew, Hon. John Hyde of Washington, D.C. At the time of the semi-centennial celebration in 1896 Charles K. Walker, superintendent of the City Water Works, procured a photograph of MANCHESTER, NEW HAMPSHIRE 119 Photographed by Fred T. Irwin Kindness Miss F. Mabel JVinchell CITY HALL, MANCHESTER, ENGLAND, from a picture in the office of the Water Works of Manchester, New Hampshire, procured by Charles K. Walker, Manager of that Department at the time of the semi-centennial of the city. the City Hall of Manchester, England, which together with a photograph of the City Hall of Manchester, New Hampshire, may now be seen in the office of the Manchester Water Works Department. The early history of this important New England city is of great interest: — On June 13, 1810, John Langdon, Governor of New Hampshire, affixed his seal to a bill by which the name of the town of Derryheld was changed to Manchester, the exact phraseology of the essential part of the bill being as follows: — "Be it Enacted by the Senate and House or Representatives in General Court convened: That said town of Derryfield shall forever hereafter be called and known by the name of Manchester, any law, usage or custom to the contrary notwithstanding." The reason for this form of expression may perhaps be found in the fact that the place now designated as Manchester had already borne several different names. There is a tradition that the territory was originally called by the Indians Kas- kaashadi, "the place of broken water," referring to the falls of Amoskeag. If this was the case this name must have given way to Namaoskeag, meaning "a great place for fish." The white settlers in this locality called it Nutfield, or the Chestnut I20 MANCHESTER, NEW HAMPSHIRE From The Centennial Celebration of Manchester, N.H." OLD DERRYFIELD MEETING HOUSE Manchester, New Hampshire, was at one time called Derryfield because the people of Derry used to pasture their cows there. Country, on account of the abundance of chestnut trees, Tyng's Township being another name, meaning the land granted to Tyng and his men. Still later it was called by the derisive name of Harrytown, a shortened form of "Old Harry's Town," and in 1751 it was called Derryfield, because the people of the nearby town of Derry were accustomed to pasture their cows there. These names did not all apply to precisely the same district, nevertheless they were all, excepting possibly the first, applied at some time to the whole or a part of the territory which in 18 10 by act of legislature acquired the name of Manchester. The early settlers were either the families of the Scotch-Irish, who had come to this part of New Hampshire in 17 19, or the descendants of the English Puritans. The name of Manchester was given to the town as a compliment to Judge Samuel Blodget, who had built a home for himself near Amoskeag Falls in 1793 and who became the pioneer of internal improvements in New Hampshire. He was the first to realize the value of the water power at Amoskeag and for its devel- opment he worked incessantly, finally achieving his triumph in 1807, when he rode through the canal amid the applause and praise of the people who had gathered on the banks to witness the event. On the occasion of a visit to England in 1787 he prophesied that his home town would some time surpass old Manchester as a man- MANCHESTER, NEW HAMPSHIRE 121 From an old print o-.cned by Allan Forbes Formerly m the eolleetion of J. H. Seers, Essex, England MANCHESTER, ENGLAND ufacturing center but at the time that Manchester received its name there was Httle to indicate that Judge Blodget's prophecy would ever in any measure be fulfilled. In an address delivered at the centennial celebration of the naming of Manchester it was said that in the year 1810 there seemed to be but two facts that made the place in any way notable; one was the existence of the Amoskeag Falls with their fisheries and possibilities while the other was that the town was the home of Major General John Stark, the Revolutionary hero, who was then passing a peaceful old age on his estate near the Falls. In 1 8 14 the navigation of the Merrimack was fully opened and the river became a considerable water highway whose traffic continued for some years after the opening of the Concord railroad in 1842. The manufacture of cloth near the Amoskeag Falls was begun before Manchester was so named and, in the year of its naming, a company was formed known as the Amoskeag Cotton and Wool Factory. This company, however, had httle capital or machinery and its output was small. In the year 183 1 the present Amoskeag Manufacturing Company was chartered with a capital of a million dollars, a large sum for that time, and Samuel Blodget's dreams of the future began in some degree to be realized. The new company was organized "for the purpose of taking over the old company, devel- oping water power, acquiring and selling land, selHng sites and power to other man- ufacturing concerns, building and operating mills of its own and so bringing about the growth of a flourishing manufacturing town worthy the name it had been 122 MANCHESTER, NEW HAMPSHIRE given." Other prominent companies here are the International Cotton Mills, the largest producers of cotton duck in this country, and the W. H. McElwain Com- pany, makers of shoes. In connection with all these industries it has been humor- ously remarked that if one of the old Indian chieftains should come down the Mer- rimack in his canoe in quest of clothing, he could obtain a complete outfit of apparel made in Manchester and could even put the finishing touch to his modern equipment by placing between his lips a Manchester-made cigar. It is an interesting fact that Manchester, England, obtained a city charter only eight years earlier than Manchester, New Hampshire, and that the English town did not receive the title of city until its namesake had enjoyed that honour for seven years. Old Manchester, however, had had a long history before it could be called a city. On the banks of the river now known as the Irwell in that part of England called Lancashire the ancient Romans had a camp, or"castrum," named Mancunium. The Saxon records show that about the year 923 King Edward sent a number of his Mercian troops to repair and garrison the fortress of Manig-ceaster. The place was mentioned in the Domesday Book as one of four in southeast Lancashire. It is known that woolen manufacture was carried on there in the thirteenth century and in 1552, in the reign of Edward VI, laws were passed by Parliament regulating the length of Manchester cotton, which, notwith- standing the name, was probably woolen. In 1650 the cloth manufactures of Man- chester ranked among the first in England in extent and importance, and its people were described as "the most industrious in the northern part of the kingdom." The inadequate supply of cotton goods about the middle of the eighteenth century stimulated efforts for increasing the means of production and the machines succes- sively invented by Arkwright, Hargreaves and others furnished this means; the efficiency of these machines was greatly increased by the perfection of Watt's steam-engine. The English city has long been known as the center of English cotton manufacture and, if the entire population of the urban district were in- cluded, greater Manchester would probably rival London in the number of its inhabitants. To such a Manchester, it may well be believed, there is "none like nor second." In 1783 the English Manchester, with Salford on the other side of the river, had a population of 39,000 mainly given over to the manufacture of cloth, and it may, therefore, be interesting to note that the late Hon. Edwin F. Jones found in this fact a literal fulfillment of Samuel Blodget's prophecy. "Our Manchester," said he, speaking in 1910, "is the Manchester of America! and it is today larger and more prosperous than was the original Manchester when Judge Blodget returned from England in 1787." The early emigration to the American colonies from Manchester and the dis- tricts nearby was very small, the names of Henry Dunster, Samuel Gorton, Oba- diah Holmes and the ancestors of the Sewell and Dana families being the only ones MANCHESTER, NEW HAMPSHIRE 123 we are able to trace to New England. Some of the Saltonstall family are well known in the English Manchester, several having died at Holme Hall. Manchester, Massachusetts, was named perhaps for Manchester, England, but more probably for the Earl of Manchester who had an official connection with the colonies. We are sure, however, that those who settled in the Massachusetts town came from the eastern counties of England. There are also places by the name of Manchester in Connecticut, Maine and Vermont. MEDFORD, MASSACHUSETTS MEDFORD, one of the earUest permanent settlements of the Massachusetts Bay Colony, unlike all others, was the proprietary of the "Governour" of the colonizing company and to Matthew Cradock the large city of today owes its name. Those early explorers. Captain John Smith and Bartholo- mew Gosnold, may have seen or looked from its hills, but the first recorded visit of white men was by an exploring party from Plymouth in September of the year 1621, consisting of "Standish the stalwart, with eight of his valorous army, led by their Indian guide ..." as expressed by Longfellow. They encountered some redskins and with inducements of trade and promises to come again they returned to Plymouth. It was, however, left to others to become Medford's first settlers, nearly seven years later, the company comprising fishermen, farmers and mechan- ics in the employ of Matthew Cradock, a wealthy merchant, who, besides his asso- ciated interests in the "London Company of Massachusetts Bay," ventured to a certain extent on his own account. These Englishmen coming to Salem in the migration of 1628, or earlier, soon found their way to the Mistick Valley and made a permanent settlement "four miles along the river." Title to this territory was later confirmed to Cradock by the General Court, thereby making it his proprie- tary. It was then known by the various names of "Mr. Cradock's Farm," "Mistick" and "Medford." It was also styled a "plantation," but was never called a town until a half-century had passed. Cradock has been called "the Father of our Medford," although curiously enough he never came overseas, his business here being conducted by agents. He was the first president of the trading company chartered by King Charles I, his official title being "Governour." He suggested the transfer of the Colony's government to these shores but resigned his important office to Winthrop, who brought the charter with him, and coincident with this charter are our present titles of Governor and General Court. Cradock had a country seat at a httle hamlet in Staffordshire, England, called Medford, the EngKsh name having been spelled at different times Medford, Metford, Mepford, Mefford and, at the present time, Meaford. It is considered by careful historians that he gave the name of his English possession to this new venture in the Bay 124 MEDFORD, MASSACHUSETTS From a picture published by T. G. Adie b" Co. Kindness Ian Forbes-Robertson, Esq. MEAFORD, STAFFORDSHIRE, ENGLAND Medford, Massachusetts, was named for this small English hamlet which was the country-seat of Matthew Cradock, " Governour of the London Company of Massachusetts Bay." Though he never came to New England, he was founder of our Medford and until his death was its sole proprietor. Colony and that his agent gave it to the General Court, the clerk of which spelled it Meadford; thus it appears in the earliest records of the town at the time of its incorporation half a century later. It is also spelled in this way by Dudley in his letter to the Countess of Lincoln, from which shire, as well as from Suffolk and Essex, came these early Medford settlers. Cradock's business interests were none too well managed by his agents, although at first they were considerable, as seen in Wood's "New England Prospect:" — "Mistic . . . is seated by the water-side very pleasantly; there are not many houses as yet. . . . On the east side is Mr. Cradock's plantation where he hath impaled a park where he keeps his cattle till he can store it with deer. Here, likewise, he is at charges of building ships. The last year one was upon the stocks of an hundred tons; that being finished they are to build one twice her burthen." After Cradock's death, his great farm passed into various ownerships. Several sons of Thomas Brooks settled here, one branch of the family still remaining in possession of the ancestral acres over which Standish marched and where died Nanepashemit, the Indian king. Other descendants were John Brooks, seven years Governor of Massachusetts, Peter Chardon Brooks, and Rev. Charles Brooks, the first historian of Medford. "Mistick" was the EngHshman's way of pronouncing the name of the river MEDFORD, MASSACHUSETTS ' 125 which the Indians called "Missi-tuk," meaning ''the great tidal river;" Mystic it is still called, but there is nothing mystical or mysterious about it. This river, often called Medford River, was a highway of trade, and on its banks, between 1802 and 1873, were built five hundred and sixty-seven vessels,— all in Medford, — a remarkable record. The names of some of the people who have contributed to make this industry so famous are Magoun, Turner, Lapham, Hastings, Sprague, James, Fuller, Rogers, Stetson, Waterman, Ewell, Curtis, Foster and Taylor. One of the first ships launched in this country was the well-known "Blessing of the Bay" which was built in 1631 at "Ten Hills Farm," the property of Governor Winthrop, part of which was within the present Kmits of Medford. Of " Medford," the first recorded mention was in September, 1630, when a tax of three pounds was levied for military instruction. Fifteen other Medfords in as many States, all more or less traceable to ours, bear the name of that little hamlet on the river Trent in Staffordshire, in old Eng- land, the country home of Governor Matthew Cradock. NEWBURY, MASSACHUSETTS "They came, so simply the quaint records tell, ' From England's stately homes ' they loved full well, 'For conscience and religion's sake,' to dwell 'Amid this wilderness,' by God's good grace, To rear in Quascacunquen, Newbury's race. This goodly land, sea-fronting levels wide, Their earnest gaze espied. Ripe for the planting of a continent." THE above is an extract from an ode written by Mrs. Louisa P. Hopkins on the occasion of the two hundred and fiftieth anniversary of the founding of Newbury, Massachusetts. It is not strictly correct to state that these Newbury settlers came to this country for "religion's sake," for they came really for farming and stock-raising. Many of them did not separate from the Church of England before sailing and some of their grandchildren even returned to this form of worship and built Queen Anne's Chapel in 171 1, stating that they were of "the pure Episcopal Church of England." At this same anniversary celebra- tion Dr. Samuel C. Bartlett in his address called attention to the words of Judge Samuel Sewall, who was born a few years after the settlement of our Newbury. These words were later changed into verse by John Greenleaf Whittier and were published in the history of the town issued by the Towle Manufacturing Com- pany. We quote the first part: — "As long as Plum Island, to guard the coast As God appointed, shall keep its post; As long as the salmon shall haunt the deep Of Merrimac River, or sturgeon leap; 126 NEWBURY, MASSACHUSETTS As long as pickerel, swift and slim Or red-backed perch, in Crane Pond swim; As long as the annual sea-fowl know Their time to come and their time to go; As long as cattle shall roam at will The green, grass meadows of Turkey Hill; As long as sheep shall look from the side Of Oldtown Hill on marshes wide, And Parker River and salt-sea tide; As long as a wandering pigeon shall search The fields below from his white-oak perch, When the barley harvest is ripe and shorn, And the dry husks fall from the standing corn; As long as Nature shall not grow old, Nor drop her work from her doting hold. And her care for the Indian corn forget. And the yellow rows in pairs to set; — So long shall Christians here be born. Grow up and ripen as God's sweet corn!" This prediction of the prosperity of our Newbury has materialized, for from this early settlement also started West Newbury, the city of Newburyport and other nearby towns. The people of Newbury have long taken a great interest in their mother town in England and just previous to the two hundred and fiftieth anniversary, on mo- tion of Mayor Benjamin Perley Poore, the Committee on Literary Exercises was empowered to invite the Municipal Authorities and other delegates from Newbury, England, to participate in the celebration. The following answer was received: — "Borough of Newbury, Berks. To wit: At a meeting of the Mayor and Corporation of the said Borough held at the Council Chamber of and in the said Borough on Tuesday the thirteenth day of January, one thousand eight hundred and eighty five, it was unanimously Resolved — That this council desires to express to the Mayor and Citizens of the Town of Newburyport, Massachu- setts, in the United States of America, its hearty congratulations in the approaching celebration of the two hundred and fiftieth Anniversary of its Incorporation, recognizing its Municipality as in some sort the offspring of this Ancient Borough, the past history of which is so largely interwoven with that of the Parent Country. That they desire to greet with hearty goodwill and sympathy the Municipality of Newburyport, and to rejoice with them on the remarkable progress and prosperity which, by the blessing of Providence, and the efforts of those enterprising men who in the Seventeenth Century left their native land to found a new home in the Western Continent, has attended their Corporate exist- ence for so long a period. That it is peculiarly gratifying to the Corporate Body and to the Inhabitants of this Borough to know that a former Minister of this Town — the Rev'd. Thomas Parker, was one of the original Settlers at Newburyport, in the year 1634; and that the name of a Rector of this Parish — the Rev'd. Benjamin Woodbridge, occupies the first place on the List of Graduates of Harvard University, and very sincerely do they trust that the town of Newburyport may continue to flourish and contribute many illus- trious names to the Roll of American Worthies. NEWBURY, MASSACHUSETTS 127 Resolved further: — That a Copy of these Resolutions, suitably engrossed, be sealed with the Common seal of the Corporation, signed by the Mayor, and forwarded to the Mayor of Newburyport by the Town Clerk. William Hall, Mayor (Seal) H. Burke Godwin, Town Clerk." The English town sent another letter a short time later, which was elaborately engraved on parchment and which has been placed in the archives of the City of Newburyport. Another e\ddence of the interest taken by the English town in her namesake occurred in 1911 when at the suggestion of Walter Money, the historian of Newbury, England, Alfred Camp, Mayor of that town, sent a copy of the charter of incorporation of the Borough of Newbury, which was granted by Queen Eliza- beth and which is now a valued relic in the Historical Society of Old Newbury, JMassachusetts. This interesting record is dated 1596 and appoints Bartholomew Yates as the first Mayor of the town. With this present also came a letter from Mayor Camp, part of which is as follows: — "March 16, igii. Municipal Buildings Newbury As you observe, the possession of this photographic copy will be our Historical link between our ancient Borough and your own Newburyport, and I trust while being so, it will also be a worthy addition and adornment to your Museum collection. Wishing Newburyport all prosperity in its future career, and in emulation of the best traditions of the old Borough and Country, Believe me, Yours very sincerely, Alfred Camp, MayorJ' A few years ago. Rev. Glenn Tilley Morse, Rector of All Saints Church, West Newbury, and President of the Historical Society of Old Newbury, visited the old town in England and there met Mr. Money and officials of the town. When Mr. Morse built his church, he wrote to the Rector of St. Nicholas Church in Newbury, England, and asked him if he would send him a stone or some present to place in his church here. The war started soon after, which prevented at that time the carrying out of this suggestion, but in February, 1920, Mr. Morse received from him a Bible which had been used for many years in the Lady Chapel of St. Nicholas Church. Mr. Morse, as can be seen by the photographs of both churches, followed the perpendicular Gothic style of architecture of the Newbury church when he super- intended the building of his church in West Newbury in 191 2. Mr. Morse has taken a great interest in the old town as his ancestors were among the early settlers. An- other visit we should mention was made by Rev. Mr. Titmarsh, pastor of the Congre- gational church in Newbury, England, who came to Newbury, Massachusetts, at the time of the International Conference of Congregational Churches, which was held in Boston in 1899, and while here he preached at the First Church in Newbury and also spoke before the Historical Society, where he told them all about his town. 128 NEWBURY, MASSACHUSETTS From a print Kindness Rev. Glenn Tilley Morse ALL SAINTS CHURCH, WEST NEWBURY, MASSACHUSETTS This church was built in 1913-14 under the supervision of its Rector, Rev. Glenn Tilley Morse, who followed the character of St. Nicholas Church in Newbury, England, shown in another illustration. The earliest commemoration of the settlement of our Newbury of which we have any knowledge was the first Centennial held in 1735 which, according to tradition, took place in Col. Joseph Cofhn's front yard. Another celebration in the town took pl?Lce in 1759, when the British and Colonial Arms were triumphant at Que- bec. The citizens on this occasion are said to have roasted an ox in the west yard of Mr. Lowell's meeting-house, when they doubtless sang these and other words: — "With true British valour we broke every line And conquered Quebec in the year fifty-nine." The lands near Newbury had for some time attracted the attention of the Eng- lish, for we read that one William Wood returned to the old country in 1633 after a four years' residence in Massachusetts, and pubhshed in London a book giving a "description of that part of America commonly called New England," and in this review of all the settlements he reserved his choicest words for the last. " Agawam " he says, "is the best place but one, vrhich is Merrimack, lying eight miles beyond NEWBURY, MASSACHUSETTS 129 from an old print Brought from \ ' il nid, bv Rfv. (jUnn TilL-y Mor^e ST. NICHOLAS CHURCH, NEWBURY, ENGLAND The character of this church was copied by Rev. Glenn Tilley Morse, when All Saints Church in West Newbury, Massachusetts, was built in 1913. it, where is a river twenty leagues navigable. All along the river are fresh marshes, in some places three miles broad. In this river is sturgeon, salmon and bass, and divers other kinds of fishes. To conclude, the country hath not that which this place does not yield." His Merrimack was our Newbury. It takes but little imagination to see the first Httle band, consisting of about twenty-three men and their famiHes, as they sailed from Ipswich one morning in the spring of 1635, wending their way through Plum Island Sound and up the Parker River to a spot on its northern bank one hundred rods below the present bridge, where Nicholas Noyes was said to be the first to leap ashore. This spot is held quite sacred by the people of Newbury, who placed there a stone, shown in the illustration on the next page, the inscription upon which reads as follows :— 1902 LANDING PLACE OF THE FIRST SETTLERS 1635 I30 NEWBURY, MASSACHUSETTS From a photogr-iph by Noyes, Neicburyport Kindness Miss Harr'cHe E. Jones and Rev. Glenn Tilley Morse STONE MARKING LANDING PLACE OF THE FIRST SETTLERS, 1635, ON PARKER RIVER, NEWBURY, MASSACHUSETTS It is placed not far from the Ship Monument. Rev. Thomas Parker and James Noyes were also with these pioneers and were chosen pastor and "teacher," respectively, of their church. Farther up the river, on Oldtown lower green, has been placed another monument, surmounted by a model of a ship of the old days, erected in honour of these early settlers, the inscrip- tion being as follows: — To the men and women who settled in Newbury from 1635 to 1650 and founded its municipal 1. social and religious life, this monument is dedicated 1905 Rev. Benjamin Woodbridge, a settler in the town, has the honour of having ranked first in the first class graduated from Harvard College. Curiously enough, Newbury in Massachusetts was formerly called Old Newbury, although before this it was named Oldtown and still before that Wescussacco ; its present name of Newbury was given in the year 1635. In this year the General Court of the Colony of Massachusetts Bay appointed a board of commissioners to set out the bounds between Ipswich and Quascacunquen and at the same time ordered that the new plantation should be called Newbury from the old town in NEWBURY, MASSACHUSETTS 131 Berkshire, England, where Rev. Mr. Parker had preached before coming to this country. The Hst of names identified with the early history of Newbury is a long one and includes Daniel Pierce, Thomas and James Noyes, Henry Sewall, Caleb Moody, Anthony Morse, Captain Stephen Green- leaf, Richard Dummer, Colonel Kent and Edward Rawson; while those names later identified with the town were Adams, Chase, Poore, Hale, Lunt, Somerby, Lowell, Little, Sawyer, Bartlett, Brown, Jaques, Knight, Emery and Titcomb. Newburyport was not incorporated until 1764, this step being taken chiefly on ac- count of the need for public school accommodations in that part of the township. The best-known names in this flourishing city are Lowell, Dalton, Tracy, Jackson, Todd, Cushing, Sawyer, Coffin, Jones, Wheelwright, Huse, Cary, Greenleaf, Hooper and Moseley; while those who were best known in West Newbury soon after its settlement were Moses and Joshua Brown, Josiah Bartlett, Benjamin Perley Poore, also the Ordway, Chase, Johnson, Dole, Greenleaf, Little, Smith, Bailey, Emery, Rogers, Felton and Morse fami- lies. Timothy Dexter, who origi- nated the well-known T. D. pipe, was one of the curious characters of Newburyport in recent times. At the time that he wrote his book ''A Pickle for the Knowing Ones," there were so many discussions in regard to proper punctuation that he left out all marks of punctu- ation in the body of his book but at the end printed several pages of periods, Photographed by Noyes, Newburyport Kindness Miss Harriette E. Jones and Rev. Glenn Tilley Morse SHIP MONUMENT PLACED ON THE OLDTOWN LOWER GREEN IN NEWBURY, MASSACHUSETTS, in honour of the early settlers. Their leader was Rev. Thomas Parker, who had previously preached in Newbury, England, and it was out of respect to him that this name was given to the Massachusetts town. The names of all the earliest settlers are on the other side of this memorial. 132 NEWBURY. MASSACHUSETTS Photographed from an old print in the Marine Museum, Boston, Massachusetts Kindness Rohert /?. Snuih, Es'j. NEWBURYPORT, MASSACHUSETTS, IX 1847, FROM SALISBURY Newburj-port was at one time a part of Newbury. commas, etc., which he declared the reader could insert as he desired. It is a curious fact that from near Indian Hill Farm, West Newbury, can be seen many towns which bear the same names as English ones, such as Newbury, SaHsbury, Gloucester, Hampton, Exeter, Amesbury and Andover; in fact almost all of the names in this region betray the origin of its colonists. Settlers from Newbury also helped found the towns of Nantucket, Concord, New Hampshire, Andover, Haver- hill, Salisbury and Hampton. There is also a Newbury in New Hampshire and one in Vermont. St. Paul's Church in Newburyport used to own some silver plate that was sent over by King William and Queen Mary, but this was stolen from the church in 1887 and has never been recovered, though dupHcates have been made. Another fact of interest is the bell presented by the Bishop of London in 1 7 18 to Queen Anne's chapel, situated on the road between West Newbury and Newburyport. Newbury, England, is on the river Kennet, a branch of the Thames, and was once known as "New Bourg," being situated on the road between London and Bath. The town was formerly noted for the manufacture of cloth, an industry which started during the reign of Henry VIII. In this trade the most prominent character seems to have been "Jack of Newbury," as he has been called, who, according to tradition, proved himself a hero during the battle of Flodden Field NEWBURY, MASSACHUSETTS 133 From a pamphlet printed by the Towle Manujacturing Company, Newburyport, Massachusetts NEWBURY STREET, NEWBURY, ENGLAND when he and his brother warriors fought so bravely that they have gone down in history in these words: — "The Cheshire lads were brisk and brave, And the Kendall Laddies as free, But none surpassed or I'm a knave The Laddies of Newberrie." Another interesting event in the town's history has been handed down to us. In the year 181 1, Sir John Throckmorton made a bet of one thousand guineas that John Coxeter, an experienced weaver, could produce a finished woolen coat from the raw material on the sheep's back all within the space of twenty-four hours. This he succeeded in doing, much to the surprise of those who lost their money by betting against Sir John, and the winner of the wager sat down to dirmer that same evening wearing the garment. It still exists and has been sent to a number of exhibi- tions, including the International one in 1851; also a painting recording this episode was made at the time and is now in the possession of one of the family. In the old days the people of Newbury often journeyed by stage to Bath where they would spend their hohdays and as it was possible to carry very little baggage on the coach with them, it is said that the women usually had to wait indoors sev- eral days after their arrival until their fine dresses came up later by wagon. In 134 NEWBURY, MASSACHUSETTS • Kindness S. C. Reed, Esq. From a ■photograph JACK OF NEWBURY'S HOUSE, NEWBURY, ENGLAND, the old Cloth Hall, now used as a museum. One of the most prominent characters in the cloth trade was "Jack of Newbury." A picture of this ancient house hangs, with other photographs, in the Public Library of New- bur>T5ort, Massachusetts. Newbury is a parish called Speenhamland and it was there that the well-known Pelican Inn, so noted for its good dinners and high prices, received the many stage-coach travelers, one of whom wrote these amusing hnes: — "The famous inn at Speenhamland That stands below the hill, May well be called the Pelican From its enormous bill." In ancient times the Newbury church appointed officers called "dog rappers," whose duty it was to drive dogs out of church should they wander within its doors, the whips carried by these officials being used by the church wardens as symbols of service. Another event in the early history of New- bury was the siege of the castle in the year 1 152 by King Stephen. There is practically nothing left of the fortress, though a picture of it on the seal of the old town still reminds us of its previous existence. This castle was de- fended during the siege by John Marshall, the representative of Matilda, who was the daughter of Henry I. Mar- shall, in command of the castle forces, pretended that he was desirous of consulting Matilda in regard to surrender and arranged with the enemy to grant an armistice, giving his little son as a hostage; but, in the meantime, he secretly endeavored to get provisions. His scheme was discovered by King Stephen, who ordered that the boy should be thrown by a sling against the castle walls. Fortunately the King relented. Several times as he was about to murder the hostage he changed his mind and finally promised to spare his Hfe. A few days later the two were seen playing some game together, the King having become very fond of the boy. Near Newbury is the Falkland memorial which was built in 1878 to commemo- rate Lord Falkland and those of his friends who died on the field of Newbury while fighting on the King's side. The old Cloth Hall, now a museum, is an interesting example of mediaeval architecture. Another object of interest is the market-place NEWBURY, MASSACHUSETTS 135 containing the municipal buildings and a statue of Queen Victoria presented to the borough by the well-known circus king, George Sanger, who was born in the town. Horse races were also held in the town as early as the time of King Charles II. The Mortimer family owned much land there at one time. NEWCASTLE, NEW HAMPSHIRE ALTHOUGH Newcastle was probably not directly named for Newcastle, /% England, yet the town, with its narrow rambhng streets and small low A \^ houses, reminds one so much of the English fishing villages of Cornwall and Devon from which many of the early settlers of the Island came, that we are going to include in this book a number of interesting connections between the New Hampshire town and the mother country. In 1873, the postmaster of Newcastle, New Hampshire, Mr. H. M. Curtis, re- ceived a letter written by Mr. Henry Starr of London, informing him that one of his friends, a certain Captain Bokenham, of Hertfordshire, England, had in his posses- sion some of the early records of this New Hampshire town. The inhabitants were very much astonished and were very skeptical as to the authenticity of these docu- ments, but finally decided to inquire what expense there would be in getting them back. Much to the surprise and delight of the people of Newcastle the reply was the volumes themselves, which came by the next English mail and proved to be the records from the date of the incorporation of the town in 1693 to the year 1726, in perfect preservation and written in the handwriting of Francis Tucker, Theodore Atkinson and Sampson Sheafe, three of the earlier officials of the town. It is a curious fact that Captain Bokenham, in whose house the records were found, had no idea how they came there and no definite conclusion has ever been arrived at. These records were all the more valuable owing to the fact that the early records of the neighboring city of Portsmouth had been destroyed by fire. The town of Newcastle at the next annual meeting, held in 1874, passed a vote of thanks to the gentlemen who had discovered and given the records and this vote was engrossed on parchment and sent to London. An interesting custom adopted at the early town meetings was described by an inhabitant, who stated that the voters used to deliberate with their hats on, as they wished to copy the British Parliament. Another custom in the early times was for all the inhabitants of the Province to assemble at the fort and to fire a salute whenever any important news came from England. The town of Newcastle, at first called "■ Great Island," was not incorporated until 1693, although it was settled before the neighboring city of Portsmouth, and for the first seventy-five years it was the capital of the Province of New Hampshire and also the place of residence of the Governors. The chief industry of the town used to be, and still is to a certain extent, its fisheries, and in the old days one of the principal 136 NEWCASTLE, NEW HAMPSHIRE From a photograph Kindness William D. Turner, Esq. A STREET IN NEWCASTLE, NEW HAMPSHIRE This attractive fishing village, with its narrow, winding streets and quaint low houses, is much like some of the EngHsh fishing villages of Cornwall and Devon. town officials had the title of "culler of fish and staves." It is also a well-known fact that the States of New Hampshire and Maine both owe their discovery and early settlement to the fishing industry carried on by the English from their own harbours. Many distinguished families have lived in Newcastle and among the most prominent in Colonial days were the Sheafes, Atkinsons, Jaffreys, Vaughans, Waltons, Jacksons, Wentworths, Frosts and Odiornes. In mentioning the Sheafes it might be well to record that a member of the family owned the original settlement of Newcastle and that the family has been very prominent both in New Hampshire and in Massachusetts. Their ancestors came from Kent, England, and there is in that county an interesting inscription on a family monument reading as follows: — Here are buried under this stone, Thomas Sheff and his wife, Marion; Sometyme we warr as yee now bee And now we are as bee shall yee; Wherefore of your charite. Pray for us to the Trinite. Obyt. Mccckxxxiii NEWCASTLE, NEW HAMPSHIRE 137 From "Newcastle" by John Allref, i NEWCASTLE, NEW HAMPSfflRE Kindness Williavi D. Turner, Esq. It was formerly called "Great Island" and was for seventy-five years the capital of the Province of New Hampshire and seat of the Royal Governors. "Little Harbour" is seen on the right. The river Piscataqua runs past both sides of the island, which is connected with Portsmouth only by a causeway. Governor Wentworth's mansion is at Little Harbour and here have lived many of the family, so prominent in the history of the State. Here Samuel Wentworth, ancestor of three Governors and one of Newcastle's most respected citizens, kept a tavern called "At Ye Sign of Ye Dolphin." We wish that we had more space to describe others of the bygone days. The people of Newcastle were very independent, and it was said that the only time citizens of Portsmouth took any interest in them was just before election, for the Island vote was so influential in the state elections that there was a proph- ecy "as goes Newcastle, so goes the State." It has been said that a Newcastle sailor, as soon as he was able, always returned to his birthplace like the Kentites of the old days. It has also been claimed that the natives were so attached to their home that when a woman native of the town married a man who did not live on the island the husband always had to move his residence and business to her place of abode. There are said to be many unmarked graves on the island, and one of the farm- ers, who did a great deal of plowing with his yoke of oxen, said that he was always in fear lest his cattle should stumble into one of the ancient graves, an accident which he admitted had often happened. He used to boast that he knew where 138 NEWCASTLE, NEW HAMPSHIRE many of the family burial places were, although they were not marked. ''I've been in them," he said. "In old times they didn't dig very deep, and when the coffin gets empty and the wood thin and a heavy ox steps on the right place down he goes." Another citizen of the town asked a friend of his how he could find out his family history. "By running for office" was the amusing reply. The most important visitor to Newcastle was George Washington who visited there in 1789; naturally, the natives immediately took him fishing, but, of course, catching a fish was out of the question on account of the din of the brass band. A bright fisherman, however, anticipating this possibility, had tied a fish to the end of his line and "the Father of his Country" hauled up a large cod which should have been mounted and placed among other Newcastle antiquities. Washington was entertained at the Wentworth mansion and a salute in his honour was fired from Fort Constitution. This fort was occupied by many of our soldiers during the Great War. There is also a Newcastle in Maine. Newcastle, in Northumberland, claimed a number of ships by the name "May- flower." The inhabitants of this part of England took no active interest in the Puritan movement. NEW LONDON, CONNECTICUT " Whereas, It hath been a commendable practice of the inhabitants of all the colonies of these parts, that as this country hath its denomination from our dear native country of England, and thence is called New England, so the planters, in their first settUng of most new plantations, have given names to those plantations of some cities and towns in England, thereby intending to keep up and leave to posterity the memorial of several places of note there, as Boston, Hartford, Windsor, York, Ipswich, Braintree, Exeter. This court con- sidering that there hath yet no place in any of the colonies been named in memory of the city of London, there being a new plantation within this jurisdiction of Connecticut, settled upon the fair river of Monhegin, in the Pequot country, it being an excellent har- bour, and a fit and convenient place for future trade, it being also the only place which the English of these parts have possessed by conquest, and that by a very just war, upon the great and warlike people, the Pequots, that therefore, they might thereby leave to posterity the memory of that renowned city of London, from whence we had our trans- portation, have thought fit, in honor to that famous city, to call the said plantation New London." THE above was the vote passed by the General Court on March 24, 1658, granting permission to the early settlers to use the name "New London." It had been the wish of these pioneers that their adopted town should bear the name of London, but there was a difference of opinion, some of the colony prefer- ring the name of Faire Harbour. They persisted, however, in calling it by its earHer Indian names of Pequot and Nameaug until they finally had their wish gratified by being allowed to use the name they desired. It was quite natural that they should also want the river, which had been called up to that time "Monhegin" (often NEW LONDON, CONNECTICUT 139 spelled Mohegan) changed shortly after the naming of the town (now a city) to the Thames for the EngKsh river so well described by Pope in these words: — "My eye descending from the hill, surveys Where Thames among the wanton valleys strays. Thames, the most loved of all the ocean's sons. By his old sire to his embraces runs." From the time that Block explored this coast and named the island "Block Island," probably no civilized person landed on the shores of New London until Captain John Endicott went there in 1636, as he was returning to Boston from an expedition against the Indians, when he landed at Groton on the opposite side of the Thames. A year later the Stoughton expedition pitched camp at New London and built the first English house ever erected in the place. The settlement was formed in the year 1646 by the son of Gov. John Winthrop of ISIassachusetts, who bore the same name as his father. He was assisted by his friend Rev. Thomas Peters, a brother of the well-known Hugh Peters of Salem. The Massachusetts Court gave these two men authority to govern the plantation, although it was soon after decided that it did not come under the jurisdiction of Massachusetts, but belonged to Connecticut. We think it may be interesting to sketch the career of young Winthrop who, we are told, was a pioneer, traveler, scholar, statesman, lawyer, magistrate and physician. We first hear of him as advising his father to come to this country and it is very probable that he influ- enced his parent's decision. He was born in 1606 in the home of his ancestors in Groton, England. In 1631 he was married and sailed for Boston the latter part of the same year, whereupon he busied himself with the founding of Ipswich, as we have described in our story on that town, where he Hved until he took up his resi- dence in New London in the year 1647. In the meantime he made a trip to Eng- land in 1635, where he married again, returning to this country in the same year with a commission from Lord Saye and Sele, Lord Brooke and Sir Richard Salton- stall and others "to begin a plantation at Connecticut and be Governor there." This settlement he called "Saybrook" in honour of the two Lords who gave him the grant. It is also interesting to note that while forming this colony he coasted along the shore and visited the mouth of the Thames River, which he liked so much that he finally was induced to start a settlement at New London. He moved, however, none too soon to the Connecticut River, for hardly had his vessels ap- peared than the Dutch likewise hove in sight, but as the English flag and the Enghsh cannon had just been placed there ahead of them, they prudently turned back their prows towards New York. Winthrop remained " Governor of the river Connecticut, with the places adjoining thereunto" for the space of one year as commissioned by the patentees, then returned to the town of Ipsv.ich which he had previously founded in the Bay Colony. Some years later he went abroad, returning in 1643 with workmen, tools and stock with which to take up the busi- 140 NEW LONDON, CONNECTICUT f^ - ill '' mf^V *''} Y ' ' From a picture published by H. D. Utley, New London, Conn. kindness Frnett E Roger , Liq. OLD TOWN GRIST MILL, NEW LONDON, CONNECTICUT, established by John Winthrop, the younger, when he was chief magistrate of New London in 1650. It was used continuously until a few years ago. It is now owned by the city and is kept intact as an historic building. ness of smelting and refining iron at Lynn and Braintree, which, for a time, was prosecuted with zeal and success, thereby earning him the distinction of being the first person in the United States to engage in that business. In 1644 he obtained from the General Court of Massachusetts this grant " 1644, June 28. Granted to Mr. Winthrop, a plantation at or near Pequod [New London] for iron works." As we have noted, he began the settlement of New London in 1646, estabhshing a town government the next year. His family also moved there the same year and has been represented in the community ever since. He was Governor of Connecticut by election in 1657 and in 1659 and every year after that until the time of his death in 1676, an honour conferred upon no other Governor of the State. Still another position had been thrust upon him in 1641, when Massa- chusetts sent him to the Court of St. James, where he showed great abihty. He chose a tomb for himself in New London, but death overtook him on a visit to Boston and he was therefore buried with his father in the family vault in King's Chapel Cemetery. Henry Winthrop who resides in New London at the present time is a direct descendant of John Winthrop. The two hundred and fiftieth anniversary of the settlement of New London was celebrated in May, 1896, on which occasion the corner-stone of the monument to From a photograph by Boston Photo News Co. ABRAHAM LINCOLN The St. Gaudens statue, a replica of which was formally presented to the British nation by the Hon. Elihu Root on behalf of the American people, and unveiled in London by the Duke of Connaught on July 29, 1920. This is one of the latest connecting links between the Old World and the New. 142 NEW LONDON, CONNECTICUT From a photograph Kindness Ernest E. Rogers, Esq. STATUE OF JOHN WINTHROP, THE YOUNGER, IN NEW LONDON, CONNECTICUT, unveiled in 1905. He was the first governor of Connecticut by appointment of the original patentees Lord Saye and Sele, Lord Brooke and others in 1635; also the first governor of Connecticut under the charter which he ob- tained from King Charles II in 1662. His father was John Winthrop, governor of the Massachusetts Bay Colony. In the background is the oldest cemetery in Connecticut, east of the Connecticut River, and in it is the Winthrop family tomb where he expected to be buried, but as he died while in Boston he was buried in King's Chapel Burying Ground, in his father's tomb. John Winthrop, the younger, was laid, and also the Soldiers and Sailors memorial was dedicated. Some years later, in 1905, Bela L. Pratt, the sculptor of his statue, received a telegram saying, ''John Winthrop has arrived." The monument was unveiled the same year by Master Henry C. Winthrop, Jr., the youngest male de- scendant of the distinguished Governor bearing the name. The words on the tablet attached to the monument are as follows: JOHN WINTHROP I606-I676 FOUNDER OF NEW LONDON MAY 6, 1646 GOVERNOR OF CONNECTICUT 1657; 1659-1676 THE CHARTER OF CONNECTICUT WAS PROCURED BY HIM FROM KING CHARLES II APRIL 23, 1662 NEW LONDON, CONNECTICUT 143 TO COMMEMORATE HIS GREAT SERVICES TO THIS COMMONWEALTH THE STATE OF CONNECTICUT ERECTS THIS MONUMENT A.D. 1905 Winthrop Square, where the statue now stands, is the most historic spot in New London, for it was here that the early settlers had a lookout post against the Indians; here also hung the first town's bell, the gift of John Winthrop 's son, Gov. Fitz-John Winthrop, in 1698. (The towTi voted "to ring the bell every night at nine of the clock winter and summer," which custom of ringing the curfew is still in existence and has covered a period of two hundred and twenty-three years, with the change somewhere in the centuries from nine o'clock to eight o'clock on Saturday nights.) Here also was the site of the three successive meeting-houses where Blinman, Bulkeley, Bradstreet and Adams preached; and here in 1745, the troops assembled under Lieut. Gov. Wolcott previous to their sailing on the Louisburg Expedition. New London was one of the great whaUng ports of New England and up to i860 this was the most important industry of the town. The bicentennial celebration of the First Church of Christ in New London took place in 1870, this year being chosen for the reason that the church records did not begin until the year 1670, although the church was founded some time before. In "The Early History of the First Church of Christ, New London, Connecticut" by Rev. S. Leroy Blake, D.D., published by him in 1897, when minister of the church, it is authentically shown that the church was organized in Gloucester in 1642 and emigrated with its minister, Rev. Richard Blinman, from Gloucester, Massachusetts, in 165 1, to New London, with about fifty of its members. The present Bhnman Street received its name from him. During the two hundred and seventy-nine years of its existence there have been but thirteen ministers. The organization of this church is four years older than the founding of the town. The First Church in Hartford, Connecticut, emigrated with its minister, Rev. Thomas Hooker from Cambridge, Massachusetts, in 1636, fifteen years previous to the arrival of Mr. Blinman and his flock in New London. We quote a few verses written by George Parsons Lathrop on the two hundred and fiftieth anniversary of the founding of New London on May 6, 1896. "The river whispered to the sea; 'Bring me the men of destiny. The men of faith, the men of power, From whom shall spring a nation's flower!' Long, long the waves of ocean bore That message to its farther shore; At last from ancient realms there came The makers of the New World's fame. Q < o Q O o Pi m o H a H o NEW LONDON, CONNECTICUT 145 Then in the warring Indian land, Brave Winthrop and his gallant band Hewed clearings; and from fallen oak Rose the first hearth-fire's signal smoke." New London will observe its two hundred and seventy-fifth anniversary on May 6th of this year (192 1). In speaking of the great city for which New London was named all we venture to do is to mention briefly the memorials and places there of interest to Americans, hav- ing been helped greatly in compiling the list by Dr. J. F. Muirh3ad of London. First of all is the recently dedicated statue of Abraham Lincoln in Parliament Square, a replica of the St. Gaudens statue in Chicago, of which we have included an illustration. Next in interest is the fact that Benjamin Franklin spent about a year and a half in London between December, 1724, and the fall of 1726, working as a printer, first with the firm of Palmer, established in what had been the Lady Chapel of St. Bartholo- mew's Church, and afterwards with Watts, in Wild Court, near Lincoln's Inn Fields. His first lodging was in Bartholomew Close, whence he removed to Duke Street, where he had a room at the modest rental of 1/6 a week. When he returned to London in 1757 in the more dignified position of Agent to the General Assembly of Pennsyl- vania, he found a home at 36 Craven Street, Strand, which he occupied for several years; there he wrote various humorous papers under the name of "The Craven Street Gazette." The only reminder of George Washington in London is a copy of Peale's full-length portrait of him which was presented to the Government by the Earl of Albemarle in 1919 and which hangs in No. 10 Downing Street, the residence of the Prime Minister, now occupied by Mr. Lloyd George. The associations of John Harvard and Captain John Smith with the city of London were mentioned in Part I. The visitor to London will find a monument in the Charterhouse to Roger Williams, founder of the State of Rhode Island; also he may wish to see the church of Saint Ethelburga the Virgin in Bishopsgate, associated with Henry Hudson, who named the Hudson River. The American will surely visit Westminster Abbey, where he can see the window placed there in memory of Rev. Phillips Brooks, Bishop of Massachusetts, the bust of Longfellow by Brock, placed there by his English ad- mirers, and the medallion and stained-glass window to commemorate James Russell Lowell. There is also a monument in Westminster, beneath the Tower, to Viscount Howe, erected by the Province of Massachusetts, while still a British colony. Gen- eral Burgoyne, who capitulated to General Gates at Saratoga, is buried in the North Walk of the Cloisters of the Abbey. Ralph Waldo Emerson spent a night in Carlyle's House at 25 Cheyne Row, Chelsea, while visiting the city, and there is an interesting tablet and monument in Southwark Cathedral to William Emerson, a supposed ancestor. Washington Irving lodged in Bartholomew Close and was fond of exploring the nooks and crannies of Canonbury Tower. o Q o O o u Q Q o o w c« O w w ffl H O •^5 ■ S ^ £ 8 NEW LONDON, CONNECTICUT ' 147 The Chelsea Public Library contains a bust of Henry James and the Chelsea Parish Church has a memorial tablet in his honour. In front of the Royal Exchange is a statue of George Peabody by Story, a stone near the west end of the nave of Westminster Abbey marking the spot where the remains of this American philanthropist lay before being removed to Massachusetts. He lived in Eaton Square. William Penn, the founder of Pennsylvania, seems to have lodged in Holland House in Charles II's reign, having lived also at No. 21 Norfolk St., Strand. He spent nine months in Fleet Prison rather than pay an unjust claim and was also confined in Newgate. Ke was born on the East Side of Tower Hill and was baptized in All Hallows, Barking. He attended Harsnett's Free School at Chigwell and Hved from 1672 to 1677 '^^ Basing House, High Street, Rickmansworth. He was buried at Jordans, together with his two wives and five of his children. The Pilgrim Fathers' Memorial Church in New Kent Road, the oldest Congre- gational church in London (16 16), is also worthy of a visit. Another place of interest is the Parish Church, Gravesend, where the registers in the vestry contain the record of the burial of Pocahontas, the Indian princess who saved the Hfe of Captain John Smith and who married John Rolfe. Two stained glass windows were placed there in 19 14 to her memory by the Society of Virginian Dames, there being also a memorial tablet on the chancel wall. Edgar Allan Poe, of Baltimore, attended the school kept by the Misses Dubourg at 146 Sloane Street. He also went to school at Stoke Newington from 181 7 to 1819. Benjamin West lived for forty-five years at 14 Newman Street; his studio is now St. Andrew's Hall. He was buried in the "Painters' Corner" at St. Paul's. J. M. Whistler died at 74 Cheyne Walk. He lived first at No. loi from 1863 to 1867 and then at No. 96 for twelve years, during which time the portraits of his mother and Carlyle were painted. He was buried in the burial ground of St. Nicholas Church, Chiswick, beneath a bronze altar tomb. A memorial to him by Rodin is to be placed in the gardens on the Embankment to the West of Albert Bridge. John Quincy Adams, sixth President of the United States, was married to Louisa Johnson in 1797 in All Hallows, Barking. Another marriage of interest to all the English-speaking peoples is that of Theodore Roosevelt to Edith Kermit Carew, which took place at St. George's, Hanover Square, in 1886. Charles Chauncey, vicar of Ware, who became President of Harvard College in 1654, is commemorated by a tablet in Ware Church, twenty-two miles from London. The recent death of Francis Hodson recalls to the minds of many Americans and Britons alike the devoted services of this Englishman, who had been acting as chief clerk in the American Embassy during the past thirty-five years. He was an international figure and it was said of him that he was "never in the way and never out of the way." His father, Charles Hodson, who died in 1906, occupied 148 NEW LONDON, CONNECTICUT the same position for thirty years, during which time he served under eight American Ambassadors. Francis Hodson's brother, Edward, is to occupy this position now and will doubtless fill the post as his father and brother have done before him, with ability, modesty and tact. OXFORD, MASSACHUSETTS WHILE Oxford, England, is universally known as one of the world's greatest seats of learning, it may be a surprise to many to read that there has been an Oxford in Massachusetts since 1683 when the settle- ment of Nipmuck was named for the famous English city. The first movement toward a settlement in the region now called Oxford was the petition of Hugh Campbell, a merchant of Boston, February, 1680, for land for a colony of Scotch emigrants. The petition was granted, but no effort seems to have been made to take advantage of it. Shortly after this, two prominent men of Boston, WilHam Stoughton and Joseph Dudley, were empowered to purchase this land in the Nip- muck country and reported that with the Hassanamesit and Natick Indians they had agreed for all their land "lying fewer miles northward of the present Springfield road, & southward to that, haue agreed betweene Blacke James & them, of which wee aduised in our late returne, wee haue purchased at thirty pounds money & a coate. The southern halfe of said countrey wee haue purchased of Blacke James & company, for twenty pounds." It was undoubtedly at this time that the town received its present name. It was through an associate of these two men, Robert Thompson, merchant of London, England, that the Huguenots were induced to settle in this territory. He got into communication with Gabriel Bemon, who, though he never settled in Oxford, nevertheless was most active in making arrangements for the settlement of the Huguenots here. As a result, from La Rochelle, France, came a letter, dated October i, 1684, from a representative of the French Protestants there, who, like the Pilgrim Fathers before them, looked to America as a place of refuge from re- ligious persecution at the time of the revocation of the Edict of Nantes. The note in part was as follows : — "New England, the country where you live, is in great esteem; I and a great many others, Protestants, intend to go there. Tell us, if you please, what advantages we can have, and particularly the peasants who are used to the plough. If somebody of your country would send a ship here to bring over French Protestants, he would make great gain." To this plantation, then, which had been named for the English city where is the famous University at which many of the Pilgrim Fathers had received their col- legiate education, fled bands of the persecuted Huguenots — chiefly from La Rochelle OXFORD, MASSACHUSETTS 149 and its vicinity. They endured great hardships to reach America and many died on the voyage, bat the sturdy Httle band that remained arrived in Boston during the winter of 1686 and were hos- pitably received and cared for at Fort Hill, where they were fed and clothed, the scattered churches of the Massachusetts Bay Colony taking up contributions to meet the needs of the exiles. When spring came they took possession of Oxford, retaining its English name, as they liked it so well. Many famous names in the history of America appear among this first list of settlers, including Pierre Beaudoin, one of whose descendants, James Bowdoin, be- came Governor of Massachusetts, and Benjamin Faneuil, an ances- tor of Peter Faneuil, benefactor of Boston and donor of Faneuil Hall. Andre Sigournais was another prominent member of the original Huguenot community and his descendants, the Sigourneys, are well known in Boston and other parts of New England. Andrew Wolcott Sigourney, seventh in descent, still owns the old family homestead in Oxford. In 1884, Miss Myrtis S. Sigourney (now Mrs. William Bacon Scofield) unveiled a splendid monument on Fort Hill erected by the Huguenot Memorial Society to perpetuate the memory of the Huguenots who made the first settlement at Oxford. At the period made famous by Longfellow in his "Evangeline" several other French families also settled here. This town was the home of Clara Barton, Photographed by E. B. Luce HUGUENOT MONUMENT, OXFORD, MASSA- CHUSETTS, erected in 1884 by the Huguenot Memorial Society and unveiled by a descendant of Andre Sigournais, one of the most prominent of the founders of the town. Although the early settlers were French, they retained the name given to this territory by the English owners. OXFORD, MASSACHUSETTS 151 the famous Civil War nurse and organizer of our Red Cross, and here also Richard Okiey, Secretary of State under President Cleveland, was born. Olney, by the way, was the last President of the Huguenot Memorial Society, no successor having been chosen since his death. Judge Sewall, that renowned "Pepys of New England," undoubtedly named the town and he did so because he remembered his rides over the familiar ground in England. He also changed the name of the neighboring town of New Roxbury to Woodstock, his reason for doing so being that there is a town of that name near Oxford, England. It is interesting to know that the name of Oxford was originally given by Prince Charles of England, later King Charles I, to the territory now known as Marshfield, Massachusetts, when he marked Captain John Smith's map of the New England coast made in 16 14. There is also an Oxford in Maine and one in Connecticut. The city of Oxford, on that part of the Thames locally called the Isis, ranks among the most ancient corporations in England and its privileges are similar to those of the city of London. At the coronations of sovereigns the Mayor acted as Butler, next to the Lord Mayor of London, and received three mazers, or cups made of maple wood, as his fee until the last feast given by George IV in 182 1. Since then no banquet has been given, and while the Mayor of Oxford retains his right he has no opportunity to use it, and, therefore, has no mazers to bring home. In 912 the Anglo-Saxon Chronicle records: — ' ' This year died Eathered Ealdorman of the Mercians, and King Edward took posses- sion of London and Oxford, and of all lands which owed obedience thereto." Its legendary history, however, goes back nearly two centuries earlier and starts with the tale of the holy Frideswide who founded a nunnery there. She is the patron saint of Oxford and one of the three crowned figures in the arms of Oxford diocese is supposed to represent this saintly personage. Churches and castles later sprang up, and the country became famous for its sport, and many of the Norman kings resorted to the forests which abounded in deer. Historians differ as to the origin of Oxford University, though it is generally acknowledged that the movement gained impetus from the intellectual activity that was so apparent in Paris at the close of the eleventh century, at the time that the head of the cathedral school there was William Champeaux. From migrations across the channel this college town of Oxford, which at that time was neither a cathedral nor a capital town, became reinforced by the flood of students that had been turned out of France, so that by the beginning of the thirteenth century Oxford ranked with the most important universities of Europe. There are many historic landmarks in this English city, the chief of which, however, the famous Osney Abbey, has been totally destroyed. "Great Tom," a 152 OXFORD, MASSACHUSETTS bell weighing eighteen thousand pounds, a relic of this Abbey, is preserved in the "Oxford Tom Tower." Every night at five minutes past nine "Tom" tolls a curfew of one hundred and one strokes as a signal of the closing of the college gates. This tower was built in 1682 by the famous Sir Christopher Wren. Tom's time, through an old custom, is always five minutes later than Greenwich time, thereby giving tardy ones a leeway of five minutes in attending chapel, lectures and roll-calls. The most interesting building among the many in this classical center is perhaps the famous Bodleian Library, the most ancient part of which was built between 1450 and 1480 to house the books which had been given to the University by Humphry, Duke of Gloucester. It contains over a million bound volumes and about forty thousand volumes of manuscripts. By a copyright act it enjoys the right to a copy of every book published in Great Britain. Among the men who were natives of Oxford and who won distinction along various lines were Edmund Ironside, Richard Cceur-de-Lion, and King John. Cecil Rhodes, one of the most prominent of the famous graduates of the Univer- sity, is known to the present generation through his endowment of the Rhodes Scholarships which enable American undergraduates to obtain the advantages of an Oxford education at the expense of the endowment fund. READING, MASSACHUSETTS READING, Massachusetts, set off from Lynn in 1644 as "Redding," was named for Reading, England, by some of the early settlers of the town who . probably came from the English borough on the upper Thames, or from that vicinity, having first lived in Lynn on their arrival in this country. John Poole, one of the leaders, was perhaps responsible for the naming of the Mas- sachusetts town. Among the early settlers were Nicholas Brown, William Cow- drey, Thomas Parker, Thomas Marshall, John Pearson, John Damon, Jonas Eaton, Richard Walker, John Wiley and Thomas Kendall. Among later, but still early, comers whose names have been prominent in the town's history were the Bancroft, Temple, Upton, Nichols and Wakefield families. Some years ago Hon. Owen Ridley, former Mayor of the English Reading, became much inter- ested in the history of the Massachusetts town, made a visit here and was enter- tained by the late Chester W. Eaton, Esq., of Wakefield. Later Mr. Eaton and his daughter. Miss Emma Florence Eaton, who is connected with the Wakefield Historical Society (Wakefield having once been a part of Reading), visited the English Reading and Mr. Eaton published an interesting account of his visit in the "Memorial Volume of Ancient Reading" issued on the occasion of the two hundred and fiftieth anniversary of the Massachusetts town in 1894. At the time of this celebration Mr. Philip H. Turner, of Reading, England, carried on a corre- READING, MASSACHUSETTS 153 From an old print owned by Allan Forbes Formerly in the collection of J. H. Seers, Essex, England READING ABBEY, READING, ENGLAND spondence with the Wakefield Historical Society, and when the Eaton family made this visit to the old town in England he gave them a most cordial reception. Mr. Eaton in his interesting account spoke particularly of the attractive ruins of Read- ing Abbey, which was at one time one of the most lordly of the ecclesiastical es- tabhshments in England, and which is so well described by Miss Eaton in the fol- lowing Hnes of poetry written on the occasion of the two hundred and fiftieth anni- versary referred to above: — ' ' Now all has passed away Save these few stones, near which the Thames doth stately glide. Gone are thy black-robed monks with cowled heads, gone is thy day Of grandeur. Yet still the truths thou stoodest for must abide. To make us stronger, nobler; and so I feel, at last. That a precious blessing Ungers in these ruins of the past." Mr. Eaton also wrote of the historic churches of the old town, including St. Giles's, a picture of which we have reproduced on the next page. Mr. Eaton ex- plains that Reading, England, dates back to the year 868, although some historians declare that the town formed a part of the Kingdom of Wessex, under the Saxons, towards the end of the fifth century. The name Reading is spelled in a hundred different ways in the ancient English records and, like that of many English places, is probably derived from a Saxon clan name signifying the home of the sons of 154 READING. MASSACHUSETTS "Raed," the head of the clan. Men called Raed, precursors of the modern Reeds and Reids, took their name from their complexion — the Reds, like the Whites, the Browns, etc. To us, of course, the name has lost any significance of this sort and remains simply a link connecting us with that seventeenth-century England out of which the fathers came. There was fought in 1163 a duel that has come down to us in history between Henry d' Essex and Robert de Montford, which took place in the presence of King Henry II. To that town once came John Bunyan, who preached the gospel, and there also is shown to the American visitor the hall where William Penn used to wor- ship. While there Mr. Eaton made a careful examination of the copy of the register of St. Mary's Church during the sixteenth and seven- teenth centuries and found a number of names that were equally well known in our Reading, such as Poole, Cowdrey, Parker, Bachellor, Brown, Swain, Townsend, Hawkes, Taylor, Foster, Walker, Marshall, Eaton, Davis, Goodwin and Pearson, many of whom comprised the early settlers of Reading in New England. The famous Huntley and Palmer biscuit factory is situated in Reading, England. The freedom of the borough was conferred in 1920 on Lord Reading, who had represented this locality in Parliament for over nine years, and who recently has been the British Ambassador to the United States. The Am.erican Ambassador, Mr. Davis, was present at the ceremony, during which he said, "No official repre- sentative of Great Britain has more truly interpreted the English people to the Amer- ican people, or more thoroughly won the admiration and affection of the American people than Lord Reading." Our Ambassador, referring to the recent visit of the Prince of Wales to America, said he verily believed that in the recent history of the two countries no visit of greater promise, and certainly none of greater value, had occurred than that of the Prince to the United States, where he had been greeted with overwhelming enthusiasm. Photographed JTOm an old print Kindness Ian Forbes-Robertson, Esq ST. GILES'S CHURCH, READING, ENGLAND READING, MASSACHUSETTS 155 The settlement of our Reading was made in 1639 under a grant ot land from the General Court to the town of Lynn, being called Linn Village. The name was changed to Redding in 1644 and the modern form "Reading" appeared in 1647. Territory north of the Ipswich River, extending to the southern border of Andover, was added by a special grant in 165 1. South Reading, the original first parish of old Reading, where the first settlement was made, was set off as an independent town in 181 2. North Reading, beyond the Ipswich, the original second parish, was incorporated as a town in 1853. The present Reading retains the ancient name and records. The early Reading, therefore, has become in our day three separate towns. The name of South Reading was changed to Wakefield in 1868, in honour of Cyrus Wakefield, a leading citizen identified with the industrial devel- opment of the town, and was not derived from Wakefield, England. There is also a Reading in Vermont. ROWLEY, MASSACHUSETTS "What mean these mad men, soon sayes one, Witlesse to run away From English beere to water, where No boon companions stay." CONSIDERABLE correspondence has been carried on between Rev. L. D. Hildyard, Rector of Rowley Church, Rowley, England, and the town of Rowley, Massachusetts, and we believe his letters, which we quote below, will give an excellent idea of the small but attractive EngHsh parish and will also show the love and interest Englishmen have for their offspring on this side of the water: — "England, Rowley, Little Wetghton, Hull April 17, 191 2 Dear Sir: — In answer to your letter I am sending some photographs of Rowley Church and Rectory, and Little Weighton Village. There is nothing at Rowley except the Church, Rectory, and farm and park. Little Weighton adjoins and you will find the pictures of it enclosed. Here and at Rowley no doubt resided the people who accompanied Ezekiel Rogers to America. I have also enclosed a photo of myself which is of no interest except that it happens that the Hildyards have held the 'Living of Rowley' since 1704 and Ezekiel Rogers only left in 1638. I beHeve the church is Uttle altered since that date. It is supposed that Rogers took the Registers to America but I occasionally find a name later on of one or more of those who accompanied him. I have some small photos recently sent by a friend travelHng in America of several buildings in Rowley (Mass.) but what I really want is a big picture of the town like a small one I have of ' Rowley from Prospect Hill.' You would know which you considered best and I should be quite satisfied with one good one in return for those I send as you have kindly suggested the question of ex- change. I want, if you are pleased to send it to me, to exhibit it in the village and perhaps to put it into one of the papers here. 156 ROWLEY, MASSACHUSETTS From I io Rn''l,-\, i- ^, uy Rev. L. D. Ihldy ad of Ro'.oUy, Engl nid Kindne .1" i tr,tL Jt leit, L\q. ROWLEY CHURCH, ROWLEY, ENGLAND, in which Rev. Ezekiel Rogers preached for seventeen years before emigrating to Rowley, Massachusetts. ica). With all good wishes from me and the people of Rowley (England) to Rowley (Amer- Believe me, Yours sincerely. L. D. HiLDYARD." "Nov. 9, 1914. Dear Mr. Crowdis: — I read your kind message from the pulpit on Sunday to the Rowley (England) con- gregation and I have reason to know how deeply touched they were by it. It is indeed gratifying to us to think that although we are separated by so many miles of ocean, and though we are all unknown to one another, yet you still have a corner in your hearts for the dear old place from which Rowley in America took its name. We have not progressed as you have. The Church in which Ezekiel Rogers ministered is still standing and the village and hamlets remain very much the same, I should imagine, as in the days of long ago. But we often think of those faithful ones, who in the time of Charles First wer3 so beset that they determined to leave their all to maintain their re- ligious convictions. I have often regretted that there is no memorial of any kind here to Ezekiel Rogers. Before this terrible war began, we had an idea of erecting a window in the church, by which his name and work might be 'had in remembrance.' But alas! the war has put it out of the question. All we can spare now goes to the various Relief Funds, and we have reluctantly had to abandon the idea. ROWLEY, MASSACHUSETTS 157 It occurred to me when we were discussing the matter some time ago, how nice it would be if Rowley in America were to take an interest in the matter and pos- sibly to help us in some way. I know you will pardon me for making the suggestion for I dare say, like us, you are a 'poor community.' But it has been in my mind for some time to approach you on the subject. Sometimes I have thought my dream would come true, and I have pictured a great dedication service at Rowley conducted by the Archbishop of York in the presence of representa- tives from Rowley in America — what a wonderful reunion it would be after two hundred and seventy- five years. As I say, it is only a dream, for the cost of such a memo- rial would be £150. Now you must forgive me for digressing in this manner from the consideration of your letter. You ask me for a word of sympathy and greeting from Rowley. Will you please tell your good people that we think of them here, and pray that God may bless them and him who ministers to them? Believe me, Yours very sincerely, L. D. HiLDYARD, Rector." A monument has been erected in Rowley Cemetery to the memory of Rev. Ezekiel Rogers, who was the founder and first minister of our Rowley. He with his company of about twenty families came in the ship "John" of London, sailing from Hull and landing at Boston, New Eng- land, December 2, 1638. The inscription on this monument is so interesting that we are repeat- ing it here : — From a photograph Kindness Amos Everett Jeivett, Esq OLD CEMETERY IN MONUMENT IN THE ROWLEY, MASSACHUSETTS, in memory of Rev. Ezekiel Rogers, a founder and first minister of the town, who had been minister in Rowley, England, for many years. Our town was so nam.ed in his honour. He was a cousin of Rev. John Rogers, who came to Dedham, Massachusetts. Rowley, England, has for some time been considering the placing of a memorial to him there. This monument bears a most interesting in- scription, which is given in the text. 158 ROWLEY, MASSACHUSETTS Rev. Ezekiel Rogers, first minister of Rowley, Born at Wethersfield, Essex Co. England, a.d. 1590, a minister in Rowley Yorkshire 17 years. Came to this place with his Church and flock in April 1639, died June 23, 1660. This ancient pilgrim nobly bore The ark of God, to this lone shore; And here, before the throne of Heaven The hand was raised, the pledge was given, One monarch to obey, one creed to own. That monarch, God; that creed. His word alone. Here also rest the remains of his wives. With him one came with girded heart, Through good and ill to claim her part; In Hfe, in death, with him to seal Her kindred love, her kindred zeal. We are told that his sparkling wit, judgment and learning delighted his father so much that at the age of thirteen he was sent to Cambridge. Rogers had lived in Rowley, England, where he served as minister for seventeen years, his piety, wis- dom and eloquence causing people to flock to hear him from all the adjacent regions. Once, we are told, he preached in the stately Minster of York on a public occasion "which he served and suited notably." Rogers and his company wintered in Salem, Ipswich and Boston whence they began to look about for a permanent home, in the meanwhile attending services in Mr. Wilson's First Church in Boston. New Haven had made the colonists tempting offers, but they finally selected a place on the shore between Newbury and Ipswich where they, with about forty other families who had joined them, settled in 1639. The General Court ordered that the following vote be recorded in the State records and the words used appear on the present seal of the town: — "The 4th day of the 7th month, 1639. Mr. Ezechi Rogers' plantation shalbee called Rowley." The pleasant brook which flows through the center of the town is said to have influenced them in choosing this site and they were probably also influenced by the accessibility to the "lectures" on either side of them in Ipswich and Newbury. Ezekiel's father was Rev. Richard Rogers and the following quaint Knes con- cerning him have survived: — ' ' How shall we passe to Canaan now The wilderness is wide Soe full of Tygers Beares and wolves And many a beast besyde ROWLEY, MASSACHUSETTS 159 He spared no labour of mynde Noe bodilie griefe nor payne That tended to his people's good And to his master's gayne When strength of leggs and feet did fayle On horseback he did ride." Rev. Ezekiel Rogers was a cousin of Rev. John Rogers of Dedham, England, and Dedham, Massachusetts, a devoted and popular Puritan preacher, whose *' lect- ures" were famous; while his brother Daniel was also a famous Puritan preacher. His family, therefore, was distinguished for its clerical services to the Puritan cause. In 1643, Mr. Rogers had the honour of preaching the election sermon, — "and the ability he showed on this occasion," said Cotton Mather, "made him famous through the whole coimtry." He married for his second wife the daughter of Rev. John Wilson and for his third wife the widow Barker, who, as has been ex- pressed, "was in years agreeable to him." On the very night of his marriage, his house was burned to the ground with all his goods, probably all the church records and the library which he brought from England containing valuable books given to him by his father. The stout- hearted pastor, however, rebuilt his home and restocked his Kbrary. Again misfortune befell him, for he was thrown from his horse and his right arm was broken, causing it to be paralyzed for the rest of his life. Still undaunted, he learned to write with his left hand and continued active until his death which occurred in 1660, Old Style, (1661 New Style). He continually preached against all evil fashions and guises of his age, both in apparel and "that general dis- guisement of long ruffian-like hair," as he expressed it. On his death he remembered his friends throughout the Colony and even in England and Hol- land. President Quincy com- memorates him as one of the earliest benefactors of Harvard College. Part of his real estate From a photograph Kindnerf Amor Everett Je'retl. t^q. COMMUNION CUPS GIVEN BY REV. EZEKIEL ROGERS AND OTHERS IN ROWLEY CHURCH, ROWLEY, MASSACHUSETTS Those given by Rev. Mr. Rogers were brought by him from England and given to the church in his will. i6o ROWLEY, MASSACHUSETTS From a photograph Kindness Amos Everett Jezveit, Esq. TABLET IN ROWLEY, MASSACHUSETTS, erected by the Jewett Family of America in 191 2, in memory of Maximilian and Joseph Jewett, of Bradford, England, who came over in the ship "John" with Rev. Ezekiel Rogers, founder and first minister of the Massa- chusetts Rowley. was bequeathed to support the ministries in our Rowley and also in Byfield and Georgetown nearby. The last item of his will reads: "also to the church my silver bowls, which they used for the communion, to be so used still." These same bowls are still used at the first communion service each year, although they have been re- hammered and their shapes, there- fore, somewhat changed. Rogers was succeeded by Rev. Samuel Phillips, who came from the English town of B oxford. Almost directly across the drive from the Rogers monument in the cemetery is a memorial tablet, shown in one of the illustrations, erected by the Jewett family of America to the first two ancestors of this name who were buried in this cemetery. There are also stones placed here to the memory of two other early settlers in this New England town, John Trumble first of Roxbury, New England, and William Stickney, who came from Frampton, England, to Boston in 1638, thence to Rowley. One of the interesting pieces of history connected with Rowley is the fact that the little town was able to supply cloth sufficient for the needs of the Colony, when the supply that had been brought over by the colonists from England had failed them. Johnson in his " Wonderworking Providence " speaks of this incident in these words: — "These people being very industrious . . . were the first people that set upon making of cloth in this western world, for which end they built a fulling-mill and caused their little ones to be very diligent in spinning cotton wool, many of them having been clothiers in England." Governor Winthrop also records that in this manufacture "Rowley to their great commendation exceeded all other towns." The name of the pioneer in the manu- facture of cloth was John Pearson who shipped his cotton from Barbados, his mill continuing to be the property of his family for the next six generations. A cedar post that was brought from England and put into that first mill was still standing and in good condition at the beginning of this century; it was then cut up into rulers, which were deposited in museums and various other places. ROWLEY, MASSACHUSETTS i6i From a photograph sent to Rowley, Massachusetts, by Rev. L. D. Hildyard, of Rowley, England ROWLEY, YORKSHIRE, ENGLAND Kindness Amos Everett Jewett, Esq. Rowley, England, in the East Riding of Yorkshire, is about seven miles from Beverley and is a small parish, for we learn that it consists chiefly of a church and a school. A visitor on aHghting at Little Weighton and inquiring for the town, received the reply to go ''right awah to your right tUl you come to a gate." An- other traveler to the other side describes a visit to the old parish, where he met Rev. H. C. T. Hildyard, who hastened downstairs to put into the visitor's hands the ancient records and keys of St. Peter's Church, which dates back to the thirteenth century and contains a font that is a century older. A visitor gives in the New England Magazine this description of the church : — "A tiny side chapel contains a tablet to Sir Ralph Elleker and his three sons, Ralph, William and Robert, all four of whom were knighted on Flodden Field in 1513 for their gallantry in that battle. But my mind was full of another hero. I thought how this little church was once thronged to hear the true, brave words of Ezekiel Rogers, how dear its ancient memories must have been to one of his cultivated taste, and how he sacrificed all, including a very comfortable salary, rather than do violence to his conscience. The left part of the rectory, as shown in the accompanying illustration, was that of Ezekiel Rogers. The good rector himself is shown in another picture, beneath a venerable larch that probably had shaded Mr. Rogers. The Rowley living is now a family one, and Mr. Hildyard is to be succeeded by his nephew, Rev. Robert Hildyard. He will be the fourth of the name in the rectorship." An interesting relic among the Rectory heirlooms is a handsome blanket bearing the date 1733, which has been passed down to each successive Rector for one hundred and seventy-six years. l62 SALISBURY, MASSACHUSETTS OF the New England towns, Salisbury ranks among the earliest, a settlement having been made at Merrimac on the Merrimac River as early as 1638, one of the earliest settlers being Roger Eastman, the ancestor of all of that name in America, who sailed to this country from Southampton, England, on the ship "Confidence." The General Court two years later changed the name of this little settlement to Salisbury as several of the first colonists came from the EngHsh town of the latter name, among the number being the first minister. Rev. William Worcester. It is also believed that one of the deputies present at the session at which the town was named, was Christopher Batt, who came from the English Salisbury. It has been said of the early settlers of the town that they "were men fitted by education to adorn any station" and by their foresight and care the town early became a pioneer along several lines — notably shipbuilding, and later, the slavery agitation. Here was born Daniel Webster's mother, Abigail Eastman, the daughter of Roger Eastman, who was a great-grandson of the early settler. There are also SaUsburys in Connecticut, New Hampshire and Vermont. Salisbury, England, at the junction of the Avon and the Wily, is a cathedral city and the capital of Wiltshire. More than seven centuries ago the town and cathedral were transferred to their present location from the windy pinnacle of Old Sarum two miles distant, the direction of the removal, as the tradition goes, being determined by the flight of an arrow. The military and the clergy quar- relled, whereupon the bishops concluded that it was time to move to another local- ity, the present Salisbury (or New Sarum) being chosen for the site of the new cathedral, which is considered to be one of the finest examples of early English architecture, dating from 1220. The following lines give in a novel way some statistics concerning the construction of the building: — "As many days as in one year there be, So many windows in this church you see; So many marble pillars here appear As there are hours throughout the fleeting year; As many gates as moons one here may view. Strange tale to tell, yet not more strange than true." The town soon grew in importance and in 1227 Henry HI granted a charter to incorporate it, making it a free city. Queen Elizabeth, while on her way to Bristol in 1574, stopped at SaHsbury, and here, too, James I frequently came for retreat. When being taken in captivity and to eventual death in London, Sir Walter Raleigh, on reaching Salisbury, feigned madness and leprosy that he might gain an opportunity to write his immor- tal "Apology for the Voyage to Guiana." There King James found him and SALISBURY, MASSACHUSETTS 163 L Owned by Allan Forbes From a print published by J. Briiton, London, 1827 SALISBURY, ENGLAND, showing the Cathedral. ordered his immediate removal to London. Charles I also came to Salisbury many times. It was at the King's Arms, still standing, that the supporters of Charles II were accustomed to gather when the monarch was in hiding at Heale House. A part of the Old George Inn was built about 1320. It was known in the early days as "Ye Grate Inne of Ye George," and it is said that Shakespeare may have played in the courtyard. Oliver Cromwell slept in the Inn in October, 1645, ^^^ the indefatigable Samuel Pepys refers to it in his diary in these words: "Came to the George Inn where lay in a siLk-bed and a very good diet." Nor should the Hterary associations of the old city be forgotten. There appeared the first edition of Goldsmith's "Vicar of Wakefield" and, in the house still stand- ing near St. Anne's Gate, Fielding lived for some time and there wrote a portion of "Tom Jones." The original Thwackum of the novel was one Hele, who was then master of a school in Salisbury, where Addison received his education "after start- ing life as such a frail infant that he had to be baptised on the day he was born." Anthony Trollope also laid the scenes of some of his novels there. During the war SaHsbury Plain was the great training ground of the overseas forces of the British Empire and tens of thousands of Canadians, New Zealanders and Australians were constantly thronging the streets of SaHsbury to which thou- sands of American soldiers, no doubt, also found their way. 164 SHERBORN, MASSACHUSETTS "There's a little grey-built town 'Neath a windy western down, Where the streets of stone-roofed houses stand for centuries the same; In a lap of earth it lies Over-arched by Dorset skies, And a gush of crystal water gives it glory and a name. Mighty monarchs, warriors bold, Of whose feats the tale is told. Ruled and wrought there in past ages, though by men remembered not, Who with valiant deed, or wise, Lifted Sherborne to the skies. And their wisdom and their worth remain, the spirit of the spot. Great and famous were our sires: Let them be as beacon-fires! Nurse we well the glowing embers, lest their splendour be forgot, When the pomp has ebbed afar, And, like some forsaken star, O'er the heights beloved of Ealdhelm broods the Spirit of the spot!" (Part of the verses written by James Rhoades for the Pageant held in Sherborne, England, in 1905.) EARLY in 1905 Francis Bardwell, Esq., Town Clerk of Sherborn, Massachu- setts, wrote a letter to the Vicar of Sherborne, England, the substance of which we quote: — "Town of Sherborn, Inc. 1674 Office of the Town Clerk, Settled 1652. Sherborn, Mass. To THE Rector of the Established Church, Sherborne, Eng. Dear Sir: Being Town Clerk of this town and knowing that it was called after the town of Sherborne in England, I write to ask you for information, feeling sure that you can either furnish it yourself, or place this communication in the hands of someone who can. This town was settled by Hopestill Layland, Thomas Holbrook, and Nicholas Wood or Woods. Do any of their names appear on the Parish Register or among the Church Records? Tradition has it that it was probably named in honor of Henry Adams, who was sup- posed to be a native of Sherborne, Eng. Other Incorporators were Morse, Bullen (or Bolyn), BuUard, Hill, Breck, Fairbanks and Perry. Do any of these names appear on your records? Tradition again says that the word Sherborn is derived from the Saxon and means ' pure water, ' which is singularly true in regard to this town ; is this correct? I should very much like to know about our Mother Town, its foundation and history, in order to write down the facts and place them among our town records. Is there a history of your town that can be purchased? I would also like to purchase photographs of the Church and of all places of interest for our Public Library here. I write you because I think you will perhaps be interested somewhat in this little town of the Colony of Massachusetts Bay and because, when I was abroad in 1895, 1 was searcn- ing concerning my own family (the DeBerdewelles, of Bardwell, Suffolk) and I always found the Rectors and Curates wilhng and pleased to assist. . . . With great respect I have the honor to remain Your Humble Servant, Francis Bardwell, Town-Clerk, Sherborn, Mass. U.S.A.'* SHERBORN, MASSACHUSETTS 165 The answer from the English town spoke of a forthcoming pageant commemorat- ing the twelve hundredth anniversary of the founding of the town. This unex- pected result of the letter from our Sherborn encouraged Mr. Bardwell again to write to the mother town, as follows: — "Sherborn, Mass. March 7th, 1905. To THE Hon. Secretaries, Sherborne Pageant, Sherborne, England. Gentlemen: — The kind letter with enclosures sent me by Mr. Field came duly to hand; I cannot tell you how pleased I was to receive the same. I have delayed in answering until after our Annual Town Meeting on March 6th, because I desired to read the letter to the towns- people there assembled, and request some action. Everybody was interested, and a Committee was immediately chosen to draw up greetings to the Mother town on the occasion of the 1 200th anniversary. These greetings will be forwarded to you shortly. I send you by this mail a copy of the Boston Transcript, in which I have called the atten- tion of the readers to the celebration. This paper has a very broad circulation, and reaches everyone interested in genealogical research in the United States. I cannot tell you how interested I am personally in this matter, and how much it means to this little town, which is, let me assure you, a worthy daughter of so illustrious a mother. The text of the Folk-play which Mr. Field so kindly sent me I shall have bound and placed in our Town Library. I wish it were so that some of our townspeople could be present at your celebration, and perhaps it can be arranged; anyway our hearts are with you, and we reach out to clasp your hands across the sea. Believe me, with the best of good wishes. Most sincerely, Francis Bardwell, Town Clerk of Sherborn.'' This note was followed in a few months by still another letter expressing the greeting of Sherborn, Massachusetts, on the twelve hundredth anniversary of the town of Sherborne, England: — "Sherborn, Mass. May 26, 1905. To the Hon. Secretaries, The Sherborne Pageant, The Parade, Sherborne, Dorset. Gentlemen: — It is my pleasure to inform you that, for and in behalf of this Town of Sherborn, Massachusetts, I sent you today by the American Express our town's formal greeting on the occasion of the 1200th Anniversary of the Foundation of the Mother Town. I regret exceedingly that our Town has not chosen an accredited representative to bear these greetings and to be with you at this time, for this anniversary means so much to our Town, the foundation of whose existence found root in English soil. When we look back upon the beginning of this Town and think of the character of its founders, and through them and their influence in the building of a second great English speaking nation, we have profound respect for the Mother Country which reared such sterling men. There is something firm, resolute, fearless, and trustworthy in the New England character, and this is our heritage from those who came from Old England to establish new homes in a strange land. So then at this time, one of the most remarkable epochs in the history of your ancient i66 SHERBORN, MASSACHUSETTS Town, when strangers throng your thoroughfares and marvel at your Historic Pageant, be assured that although an ocean separates us, still your kinsfolk in this little town, your American daughter, feel pride in your great Anniversary, and wish you all joy in your festivities, and the heartiest sentiments of prosperity for your future. With much esteem, I have the honor to be Yours with respect, Francis Bardwell, Town Clerk of Sherborn.^' The formal greeting reads as follows: — "To THE Town of Sherborne, Dorset, England, From her American Namesake the Town of Sherborn, in Massachusetts. Greeting — Our forefathers, men of indomitable spirit and God-fearing ancestry, made their habitation in the wilderness, and, with the homefeeling strong within them, gave to their new abode the ancient name of Sherborn. We, their descendants, have received with filial pride tidings of the forthcoming celebration of the twelve hundredth anniversary of the founding of the Mother Town. Your glorious record of traditions and memories of a thousand years we deem our common heritage. We greet you on this memorable occasion with a message of esteem and good will, trusting that the ties of a common blood and a common tongue may, through the advanc- ing ages, more closely bind town to town and nation to nation. May the spirit that existed in the eighth century in Old England, and that in the seventeenth century found echo in the wilds of New England, be an inspiration to all our lineage. And may the coming years bring to all peace, prosperity, and happiness, by the grace of God, who for twelve hundred years has cherished the people of St. Ealdhelm's honoured town. Done pursuant to a vote passed at the annual town meeting held March the sixth, in the year of Our Lord, One Thousand Nine Hundred and Five. Inhabitants of the Town of Sherborn, Massachusetts, By its Committee, Francis Bardwell, Robert H. Leland, Charles O. Littlefield." This greeting from Sherborn was read by a herald on horseback at the end of the pageant, being received with great applause, and it was also read a second time in Sherborne Abbey. It turned out, however, that our town was represented in three different ways. First of all, a Miss Holbrook, who was a direct descendant of Thomas Holbrook, one of the original settlers of our Sherborn, went all the way from her home here in order to be present at the celebration in Sherborne, England. Secondly, — on one day of the pageant, Sherborn, Massachusetts, was officially represented by Lorin Andrews, Esq., U.S. Consul at Bristol, England. Thirdly, — it was discovered that the daughter of L. N. Parker, Esq., was a direct descendant of Richard Parker who originally owned the land comprised in our Sherborn that was sold to the immigrants who came from Sherborne, England. This interesting information was brought to light by Miss Holbrook and was not known, curiously enough, at the time Miss Parker was chosen for one of the most important parts in the festival. It may be interesting to mention that Louis Napoleon Parker, Esq., SHERBORN, MASSACHUSETTS 167 F7^^Sherborner'publisheTbiMcCan;^;Sh^^n. Kindness Francis Bard^ell, Es,. and Henry G. Vau.han, Esq. LONG STREET AND CONDUIT, SHERBORNE, ENGLAND, showing Sherborne Abbey in the background. At thP nafreant held in the English town in 1905, at which the Massachusetts Sherborn was represented, a messagSom Ehe MassaA^^^^^^^ was read'i^. the Abbey. The New England town is spelled without the final "e." was the music master of the Sherborne School and is well known on account of being the author of the plays "DisraeH," ''Rosemary" and ''Pomander Walk." He was chiefly responsible for the great success of this celebration. The last scene of the pageant represented the English Sherborne with the British emblem and the American Sherborn with the Massachusetts coat of arms standing together on a pedestal, and below them were four girls carrying a model of Sherborne Abbey, while four boys dressed as Indians had with them a model of the "Mayflower." This picture is shown on the next page. The two towns then embraced while the band played "The Star-Spangled Banner" and "God Save the King." Many tableaux were presented which showed the history of the old town, among the most interest- ing being St. Ealdhelm receiving the pastoral staff from King Ina; Bishop Ealhstan defeating the Danes; Death of King Ethelbald; Bishop Ealhstan blessing the boy Alfred; Bishop Wulfsy and monks; William the Conqueror removing the See to Sarum'; Bishop Roger of Caen laying the foundation stone of Sherborne Castle; Foundation of the Hospital of St. John; Sherborne School receiving its charter and Sir Walter Raleigh's arrival in Sherborne. Sir Walter Raleigh is closely associated with Sherborne, for it was in the castle given to him by Queen Elizabeth in 1599 that he spent some of the happiest years of his life. Vicar W. F. Lyon in writing From the "Story of the Sherborne Pageant Produced in the Old Castle Ruins at Sherborne in June, IQ05 " By Cecil P. Godden, Barrister-at-Law Kindness Francis Bardwell, Esq. and Henry G. Vaughan, Esq. SHERBORNE, ENGLAND, AND SHERBORN, MASSACHUSETTS Final tableau of a pageant held in Sherborne, England, in 1905, to celebrate the twelve hundredth anni- versary of that town. The lady at the right, holding the American flag in one hand and the arms of Mas- sachusetts in the other, is a descendant of Richard Parker, one of the original settlers of Sherborn, Massa- chusetts. One of the Indian boys is holding a model of the "Mayflower." The pageant was held on the grounds of Sherborne Castle. SHERBORN, MASSACHUSETTS 169 From a photograph by'F.Frith &■ Co., Surrey, England SHERBORNE CASTLE Kindness Ian Forbes- Robertson, Esq. SHERBORNE, ENGLAND The older part of this building was built by Sir Walter Raleigh. In these grounds the pageant of 1905 was held, at which time the Massachusetts town was represented, as shown in another illustration. from the Sherborne Vicarage in 1903 to our Sherborn told the story of the building by Sir Walter Raleigh of the present residence of the Lords of the Manor in Sher- borne. There is a seat in these grounds upon which Sir Walter was smoking some tobacco which he had just introduced into the country. The smoke exuding from his mouth caused his servant to think that his master was on fire, whereupon he threw a jug of beer over him to put it out. The word ''Sherborne" is supposed to be derived from "Scir," meaning clear, and "Burne," meaning a brook or spring, the monks having caUed the place Fons Limpidus, signifying "the clear spring." In 705 a.d. it was the seat of a bishopric founded by Ina, King of the West Saxons, with his kinsman Ealdhelm, Abbot of Malmesbury, occupying the position of first Bishop of Sherborne. This EngUsh town, lying in the most picturesque part of Dorsetshire and once the capital city of Wessex, is celebrated to-day for its magnificent abbey, its flourishing school and its two picturesque castles. The pageant took place near the ruins of the old Castle which was founded by Roger of Caen, Bishop of Sarum and Abbot of Sherborne. Our Sherborn was settled in 1652 and incorporated in 1674 when it was first called Shearborn, the first settlement having been at "Bogestow." The present lyo SHERBORN, MASSACHUSETTS historian of Sherborn believes the name of his town was given in deference to John Hull, the "Mint Master," who owned an original grant of land. He was not born in Sherborne, England, but his family was closely associated with Raleigh, who knew Sherborne so well. SPRINGFIELD, MASSACHUSETTS WILLIAM PYNCHON of the little parish of Springfield, England, would be pleased and doubtless much surprised if he could see the great city of Springfield, Massachusetts, which was founded by him. It would seem as if the people of our Springfield should place a special memorial to him in addition to the memorial in the Peabody Cemetery which has been dedicated to the Pynchon family. Some years ago, we are told by W. F. Adams, Esq., President of the Connecticut Valley Historical Society, the children of one of the schools of Springfield subscribed eight dollars to start a fund to erect a proper memorial to this early pioneer. There are some additional funds amounting to one hundred and sixty dollars which have been collected by the Historical Society, Kindness W. F. Adams, Esq. PYNCHON FAMILY MEMORIAL IN THE PEABODY CEMETERY, SPRINGFIELD, MASSACHUSETTS William Pynchon was rector of All Saints Church in Springfield, England, and in his honour our city of Springfield, Massachusetts, was so named. SPRINGFIELD, MASSACHUSETTS 171 From a photograph Kindness If. F. Adams, Esq. ALL SAINTS CHURCH, SPRINGFIELD, ESSEX COUNTY, ENGLAND, of which Wilham Pynchon, founder of the city of Springfield, Massachusetts, was warden, and after which All Saints Church, Springfield, Massachusetts, was designed and named. also a private subscription of one thousand dollars for this purpose and doubtless some day the rest of the fund will be raised by the people of Springfield. WiUiam Pynchon was educated at Oxford, was one of the patentees named in the charter of the Colony of Massachusetts Bay, dated 1628, and was connected with the government of the company before it was transferred to America. He lived in Springfield, England, and while there was warden of All Saints Church for which All Saints Church in Springfield, Massachusetts, was named and from which it was also designed. He came over with his wife and four children in the "Jewel," one of Winthrop's fleet, in 1630 and during his first year in Massachusetts he founded Roxbury and became the treasurer of the colony. He believed that it was possi- ble to get large returns by trading with the Indians on the banks of the Connecticut and he recommended, therefore, that his fellow-townspeople establish a new set- tlement there. Accordingly, the inhabitants of Roxbury in 1635 were granted leave to "remove themselves to any place they should think 'meet.'" Springfield possesses the original declaration dated May 14, 1636, under which the settlement was begun, a few settlers, however, having occupied the lands near here a year or two before. The names of the earliest settlers are William Pynchon, Miles Morgan, Henry Smith, EHzur Holyoke, Henry Burt, Lieutenant Thomas Cooper, John Pynchon, Deacon Samuel Chapin and Richard Sikes. Other impor- tant people in the town in later years were the Brewer, Dwight and Bliss families. This change to Connecticut proved profitable, for Pynchon was soon able to 172 SPRINGFIELD, MASSACHUSETTS From a photograph Kindness W. F. Adams, Esq. ALL SAINTS CHURCH, SPRINGFIELD, MASSACHUSETTS, named for the church of the same name in Springfield, England. ship to England more than one thousand dollars' worth of beaver skins. River fishing also became very profitable to these settlers, and at one time shad were so common that a man on being hired was compelled to agree to eat one shad a cer- tain number of times a week. In 1640 the name of the town was changed from the plantation of ''Agawam" to Springfield, in honour, of course, of Pynchon, being therefore, the first town to be settled in Massachusetts west of Boston, Cambridge and Watertown. It is interesting to mention, perhaps, that for one hundred years after the settlement the Connecticut River was still spoken of as the "Great River." The latter part of William Pynchon 's life was unfortunate, for a book written by him that appeared in London, England, was so severely criticised that he was forced to leave this country permanently and to return to England in the year 1652. Much correspondence ensued between England and our Springfield with the final result that the book was burned in Boston by order of the General Court. Pynchon bought land in Wraysbury, just below Windsor Castle, where he lived until he died in 1662. We give a picture of the Pynchon tablet placed in the church in Writtle, England, and also another showing the interior of the church in Wraysbury, England, where William Pynchon was buried. Pynchon's son, John, took his father's place in Springfield, Massachusetts, and it has often been said that they have been to that city what the Adams family has been to Massa- SPRINGFIELD, MASSACHUSETTS 173 From "Springfield" by Mason A. Green THE PYNCHON TABLET IN WRITTLE, ENGLAND, to the memory of ancestors of William Pynchon. Kindness W. F. Adams, Esq. INTERIOR OF THE CHURCH IN WRAYSBURY, ENGLAND, where William Pynchon, founder of Springfield, Mas- sachusetts, is buried. chusetts and to the country. It is also an interesting fact that the Pynchon family is still prominent to-day in Springfield, Massachusetts, and as there are fourteen towns in this country named for Roxbury and thirteen towns named for Spring- field, WilUam Pynchon deserves a foremost position in the history of New England. The first minister of the Springfield colony was Rev. George Moxon who was installed as pastor in 1638. The first parish meeting-place was not erected, how- ever, until 1645, 3-nd it is said to be the first building devoted to religious worship in this State west of Boston and its vicinity; it was, of course, the beginning of the First Church of Springfield, the present church building not being erected until 18 19 when Court Square was laid out as a park. Near this church, on State Street, is the well-known St. Gaudens statue of "The Puritan" erected by Chester W. Chapin, Esq., in memory of Deacon Samuel Chapin, one of the founders of the city. Deacon Chapin was one of the first selectmen, was deacon of the first church and, with Pynchon and Elizur Holyoke, was one of the first magistrates of the town. In Court Square is also a statue of Miles Morgan of Bristol, England, SPRINGFIELD, MASSACHUSETTS 17S one of the pioneer band who with Pynchon and Chapin settled in the town in 1636. It is interesting to mention that Miles Morgan married in Beverly, Massa- chusetts; and it is said that the bride and groom were obliged to return to Springfield on foot carrying with them muskets and household articles. Traffic on the Connecticut River has been discussed continually and at one of the Springfield celebrations this poem, written by Charles H. Barrows, Esq., en- titled "To the New Connecticut," was read; it gives a very exaggerated idea, however, of the possibilities of navigation on this fine river: — "Let every sleeper waken And all the waking shout, Let measures prompt be taken To dredge the harbour out. Then silent keep, doubter, We all shall live to see A thoroughfare by water From Springfield to the sea. Soon the white wings of Commerce Will at our port be found, And as one sign of promise We will let Long Island ' Sound.' We'll keep sperm whales, we dreamers, In flocks, at Windsor Locks, When European steamers Tie up at Springfield docks." Springfield, England, is the eastern suburb of Chehnsford. Here is situated the County Gaol, a gloomy building enlarged in recent years for the accommodation of the "guests" consigned to it, but once past this depressing place Springfield is pleasing and cheerful. Its long street, where the quaint sign of the "Three Cups" stands out, gives place to suburban villas with their attractive grounds. The parish church of All Saints is shown on page 171. Goldsmith lived in the town for some time while writing "The Deserted Village." Other New England towns by the name of Springfield are in Maine, New Hampshire and Vermont. 176 o STRATFORD, CONNECTICUT LIVER WENDELL HOLMES wrote the following poem which was read at the dedication of the Shakespeare Memorial Fountain at Stratford-on- Avon in the year 1887: — "Land of our Fathers, ocean makes us two, But heart to heart is true! Proud is your towering daughter in the West, Yet in her burning life-blood reign confest Her mother's pulses beating in her breast. This holy fount, whose rills from heaven descend, Its gracious drops shall lend — Both foreheads bathed in that baptismal dew, And love make one the old home and the new!" On this occasion Henry Irving made the principal speech and there was also read a letter from James Russell Lowell, which expressed his behef that the dust that is sacred to the EngHshman is not the less sacred to the American. This memorial, the gift of George W. Childs of Philadelphia, during the jubilee year of Queen Victoria, was placed in the old Rother Market, not far from Shakespeare's birth- place in Henley Street. One of the inscriptions on this fountain records these words of Washington Irving: "Ten thousand blessings on the bard who has gilded the dull reaUties of Hfe with innocent illusions." Other places of interest to the visitor in this ancient Warwickshire town, besides the birthplace and the fountain, are Anne Hathaway 's cottage; New Place, where once stood the house in which the dramatist Hved and died; the Shakespeare Memo- rial Theatre, Library and Picture Gallery, where performances of his plays are given each year on his birthday — the dramatic season extending over three or four weeks; and his tomb in Holy Trinity Church, visited each year by thousands of tourists. It may be of interest to mention that in the south end of the Clopton Chapel of this church is a window, which was bought with contributions made by visitors from the United States, and is hence known as the American window. Of the Americans who have been fascinated by the old town, we may mention Washington Irving and Nathaniel Hawthorne, who spent much time hngering "on Avon's banks, whose streams appear to wind with eddies fond round Shakespeare's tomb," to quote from a poem written by John G. Cooper. This beautiful river in its relation to Shakespeare is also well described by Longfellow : — "Flow on, sweet river! like his verse Who lies beneath this sculptured hearse; Nor wait beside the churchyard wall For him who cannot hear thy call." Washington Irving has made famous the Red Horse Hotel where he so often stayed and where he wrote his "Sketch Book." There is also the Shakespeare Hotel, STRATFORD, CONNECTICUT 177 the building dating back to the fourteenth century. Its old sign upon which appears Shakespeare's portrait and this legend, "Take him for all in all, we shall not look upon his like again," is now shown inside the hotel. Even the bedrooms are named after some of his plays, while the bar was once, and probably still is, decorated by these appropriate words, "Measure for measure." Another point of interest, of course, is Harvard House, the early home of the mother of John Harvard, described in Part I under Cambridge. It is told on good authority that the great American show- man, P. T. Barnum of Bridge- port, Stratford's neighboring city, once endeavored to pur- chase Shakespeare's birthplace to exhibit at his circuses in this country, while at another time some German professors asked permission to examine Shakespeare's brain to deter- mine whether its size was in proportion to his genius. This last request was made in spite of the fact that the poet himself is said to have requested that this verse should be cut on his tombstone : — "Good frend for Jesus sake forbeare, To digg the dust encloased heare: Bleste be y*^ man y' spares thes stones, And curst be he y*^ moves my bones." The Connecticut town is mindful of the fact that it is named for William Shake- speare's home across the seas and, in his memory and as a further recognition of the common literature and heritage of the two countries, the donor of the Stratford I'koto^rapked by Douglas McNeill, Sir atjord-on- Avon Kindness Ian Forbes -Roberison, Esq. SHAKESPEARE FOUNTAIN, STRATFORD-ON-AVON, ENGLAND, presented by George W. Childs, of Philadelphia. It was dedi- cated in 1887, the jubilee year of Queen Victoria, the principal speech being made by Henry Irving. A letter from James Russell Lowell was read at the dedication, as well as a poem written especially for the occasion by Oliver Wendell Holmes. 178 STRATFORD, CONNECTICUT Photographed by George B. Brayton From rn old drawing by J. Brandard, ouned by J. Murray Forbes, Etq. SHAKESPEARE'S BIRTHPLACE, STRATFORD-ON-AVON, ENGLAND Library, Birdseye Blakeman, a native son of the New England Stratford, placed a Shakespeare rose window, with the poet's bust in the center, in the Library when it was built in 1896. Ttds building, which is situated near the old burial place that was set off in 1670, contains a tablet with this inscription: — IN MEMORY or Six generations of ancestors residents of Stratford posterity of Rev. Adam Blakeman 1598-1665 Dea. John Birdseye 1616-1690 This ground was dedicated and this house built by Birdseye Blakeman 1824-1894 STRATFORD, CONNECTICUT 179 a photograph Kindness Miss Frances B. Russell STRATFORD LIBRARY, STRATFORD, CONNECTICUT The Shakespeare window shown in another illustration is the circular window appearing above. This earliest Blakeman ancestor was a graduate of Oxford University and was such a learned man that he believed the English language was not a suitable vehicle to express a scholar's work, preferring Latin Uke many others of his day. Another of the earhest settlers in this Connecticut town was William Beardsley, who lived in the EngKsh Stratford during the days when Shakespeare was alive; who probably when a boy witnessed the bard's funeral and who is said to have brought across the waters the name of Stratford for our town. A few years ago his connection with Stratford-on-Avon was estabhshed by one of his descendants, Mrs. Margaret Beardsley De Lacour, a native of the Connecticut Stratford, who found his record in the parish register there. The town of Avon in New York State was named for the English river by descendants of Beardsley. Other well-known names of the earliest settlers are Curtiss, Fairchild, Hurd, Peat, Sherwood, Wells and Wil- coxson. Two other Englishmen who took a great interest in the New England town were Thomas Welles and his brother John, who are ancestors of this family now living in our Stratford. It may be of interest to record that the first wife of i8o STRATFORD, CONNECTICUT From a photograph Kindness Miss Frances B. Russell Thomas Welles (who became a governor of Connecticut) was EHzabeth Foote, daughter of John Dening of England, who is sup- posed to have been related to Shakespeare. A further proof of this relationship is the fact that Dame Elizabeth, wife of Sir John Berrod and grand-daughter of the celebrated poet, requested in her will that £50 be given to her cousin Thomas Welles. In the record of the descend- ants of the widow EHzabeth Cur- tiss who settled in Stratford, Connecticut, 1639-40, which was compiled by Frederic Haines Curtiss, Chairman and Federal Reserve Agent of the Federal Reserve Bank of Boston, is found the following: "John Curtis of London, England, had his coat of arms described below, confirmed May 9, 1632, just forty- two days before Wilham Curtis of Roxbury sailed for New England." In a note of the inhabitants of Roxbury 1638-40 appears the name of John Corteis, but in 1639 John Curtis was a resident of Wethersfield, Connecticut. In 1640 John Curtis left Wethersfield for Cuphag (Stratford) and his name disappears, but we find the widow Elizabeth Curtiss and her two sons on the earliest records of Stratford. The records of the College of Heraldry in London, England, show that the coat of arms was confirmed to John Curtis of London, Gent., son of William Curtis of Hatton in the county of Warwick, Gent., son of Eustace Curtiss of Malestock — spelled also Makestock and Makestoke — in the said county, Gent., son of William, who was son and heir of John Curtis of Malestock aforesaid, Gent. The Curtis family was from all accounts one of the most prominent among the first settlers of Stratford and it has been claimed that they suggested naming the town after Stratford-on-Avon, England. If this be true, it adds another proof towards the acceptance of the pedigree with the coat of arms, for Makestoke and Hatton were but small hamlets and Stratford-on-Avon was the nearest town of any size. That the name of Curtiss was well known in Shakespeare's town is shown by the fact that the poet used it for one of the characters in "The Taming of the SHAKESPEARE WINDOW IN THE STRATFORD LIBRARY, STRATFORD, CONNECTICUT, placed there by Birdseye Blakeman, donor of the library, who was a descendant of Rev. Adam Blakeman, one of the earliest settlers in this New England town. STRATFORD, CONNECTICUT i8i Shrew." Thomas Alsop and Richard Booth are also supposed to have been natives of Stratford-on-Avon, and as the Earl of Warwick had letters patent to that part of Connecticut, it is more than probable that many of the early settlers throughout the colony were from Warwickshire. The Beardsley, Booth and Curtis families are still largely represented in the Connecticut town, there being at least twenty- five famihes of the latter name. Judge Howard J. Curtis of the Supreme Court of Connecticut, who is also the President of the Stratford Library Association, is one of the many descendants. The Art League in the nearby city of Bridgeport, once part of Stratford, Con- necticut, has recognized the city's former connection with old Stratford by build- ing m Beardsley Park a reproduction of the Anne Hathaway Cottage. In 1896, Rev. N. Ellsworth Cornwall, then Rector of Christ Church in Stratford, Connecticut, visited the EngHsh Stratford and preached in Holy Trinity Church where, in the chancel, lie the ashes of the famous poet. On leaving, he was pre- sented by the Vicar, Rev. G. Arbuthnot, with a flag of the Church of England and a tile from the chancel of Trinity Church which was then being repaired; the tile has attached to it the following presentation: "This ancient tile was found under the stalls of Stratford-on-Avon Church when the chancel was restored a few years ago. It is presented to the Rector of Stratford, Connecticut, N. Ellsworth Corn- wall, by the Vicar of Stratford-on-Avon, G. Arbuthnot, who hopes that it may be preserved as a sHght mark of the unity and concord which prevail between the Episcopal Church of America and the Church of England. XII Sunday after Trinity MDCCCXCVI." Christ Church celebrated its bicentennial in 1907 and at that time the Rev. G. Arbuthnot sent the following letter of greeting to the Rev. N. Ellsworth Cornwall:— "The Vicarage, Stratford-on-Avon, May 18, 1907. Rev. N. E. Cornwall, Christ Church Rectory, Stratford, Conn., U.S.A. My dear Rector, I am much obliged to you for sending me the paper with the most interesting account of the proceedings at Stratford in connection with its anniversary, and I write to extend to you and to your congregation the fraternal greetings of Stratford in the Old Country. I hope we may some day have the pleasure of seeing you here again, and when that takes place that you will spend a Sunday with us and occupy my pulpit. It is indeed pleasant to think that the membership of the one Catholic Church can bridge over so many miles of ocean. With kind regards and renewed thanks for your remembrance, I remam. Yours very truly, G. Arbuthnot." Some years later, in April 191 1, at the annual Shakespeare festival in Stratford- on-Avon, Mr. H. Snowden Ward, a well-known lecturer on Shakespeare, carried a 1 82 STRATFORD, CONNECTICUT greeting to the Shakespeare Club of the English town from a number of Shakespeare Clubs in America, including the one in Cambridge, Massachusetts, the Twentieth Century Club and the Art Club in Boston, Massachusetts, and the Stratford Library in Connecticut. At this meeting Mr. Ward declared that he represented Strat- ford, Connecticut, the first of this name in America. This New England town at the same time sent a wreath to be placed on Shakespeare's tomb and also two greet- ings in verse written by residents of our town. One of the greetings was written by Arthur Powell, a resident of the Connecticut Stratford, who was born in War- wickshire and who is a descendant of the Quincy family, one of whom, Thomas Quincy, married Judith Shakespeare. He, therefore, can claim relationship with Shakespeare. The other greeting was written by Louise de Forest Shelton and is quoted below: — "A Greeting to Stratford-on-Avon FROM Stratford, Connecticut, U.S.A. From this Stratford in New England Send we greeting o'er the sea To old Stratford-on-the-Avon For this week's festivity. As you honour the great Poet We would send our homage, too, From this small New England village — Stratford Shakespeare never knew. But we treasure on our bookshelves Shakespeare's spirit — heart and thought — And we feel a closer kinship For the name the Settlers brought From that England where our forbears Lived and loved, before they came To this strange and unknown country, Bringing a familiar name. As you sing the Poet's praises. We in spirit join the throng — From this Stratford of the New World Comes an echo of your song. Kinship, friendship, even greater Is the tie that binds us fast — Proud are we to be the namesake Born from out so great a Past." There is also a Stratford in New Hampshire. i83 SUDBURY, MASSACHUSETTS WHEN Sudbury celebrated its two hundred and fiftieth anniversary, the presiding officer introduced Dr. Brooke Herford, an Englishman, then minister of the Arlington Street Church, Boston. "I know," said the presiding officer, "one fact that interests us to-day, and that is that the name of our town of Sudbury was taken from the town of Sudbury in England. Our settlers were Englishmen; we are descendants from these representative men, and we are fortunate to-day in having with us an Englishman, a representative Enghsh- man. . . . Dr. Brooke Herford." Dr. Herford in his response emphasized this fact: "I am here to answer for England, as I have been chosen for that purpose. In the speeches that have been made it seems to me that England has most of the glory for what has been done, for it was carefully emphasized that they were Enghshmen who came to settle this part of the country." To the rich lands bordering the Musketahquid, now the Sudbury River, English settlers came in 1638, having previously made plans in Watertown for forming this settlement. The land was purchased from the Indians, and the town incorporated in 1639, being called Sudbury for the mother town in England. Of a splendid type of the historic Puritan were these pioneers in the region of Musketahquid — men of such sterling qualities as Walter Haynes, Peter Noyce, John Blandford, John Bent and John Rutter, all of whom were passengers in the ship "Confidence" that sailed from Southampton, England. To-day the historic town of Sudbury is sought by visitors from many lands, and the old Wayside Inn, one of the most delightful places of interest in the town, is made memorable by Henry Wadsworth Longfellow in these words:— "One autumn night, in Sudbury town, Across the meadows bare and brown, The windows of the Wayside Inn Gleamed red with firelight through the leaves Of woodbine, hanging from the eaves Their crimson curtains rent and thin. As ancient is this hostelry As any in the land may be. Built in the old Colonial day, When men lived in a grander way, With ampler hospitality; A kind of old Hobgoblin Hall, Now somewhat fallen to decay. With weather-stains upon the wall, And stairways worn, and crazy doors, And creaking and uneven floors. And chimneys huge, and tiled and tall." There is also a Sudbury in Vermont. Sudbury, England, is in SufTolk County, and is principally noted for its three 1 84 SUDBURY, MASSACHUSETTS Photographed by Charles F. Emeny Kindness Ian Forbes-Robertson, Esq. GAINSBOROUGH'S BIRTHPLACE IN SUDBURY, ENGLAND historic churches. St. Gregory's Church attracts the most attention for it is reputed that here reposes the head of that unfortunate Simon of Sudbury, the Archbishop of Canterbury, who was beheaded in 138 1 by Wat Tyler's mob. He had previously rebuilt much of this church in which the head is so often viewed by the curious and lovers of the grewsome. His body is laid beneath the altar-stone in Canterbury Cathedral. St. Gregory's Church stands on the site of an earlier Saxon church of wood. A curious tombstone dated 1706, in St. Anne's Chapel commemorating a certain Thomas Carter, states that on the day on which he breathed his last "a Sudbury camel passed through the eye of a needle." Old Sudbury's greatest man was the son of a clothier and has come down in history as Thomas Gainsborough, the painter. He was born there in 1727 in the house shown above and there is also a statue of him in the town. At the back of this building was an orchard from which fruit was constantly being stolen and no one was able to catch the thief. Gainsborough early in Hfe proved his deftness with a pencil, by sketching the man as he scaled the fence to climb a pear tree. The young artist had risen early to work in a summer house that ad- joined the orchard and thus had a very good view of the thief. His sketch was so realistic that every one recognized it as a Sudbury man and ever after the picture was known as "Tom Peartree's Portrait." When the painter became famous he frequently returned to his native town, and many of his paintings are called "a view near Sudbury." In the Grammar School are his initials deep cut beneath a caricature of his master, and his birthplace still stands in the town. SUDBURY, MASSACHUSETTS 185 The name "Sudbury" is of Saxon origin and comes from South Burgh. Records show that its charter was granted during the reign of Queen Mary. The town contains some beautiful examples of timbered houses with overhanging upper stories. TAUNTON, MASSACHUSETTS "We cannot name them in our song, But cherish in our heart, And in old Taunton's fair renown Would bear a filial part." (Part of a poem written by Mrs. Eleanor S. Deane on the two hundred and fiftieth anniversary of the settlement of Taunton.) IN 1890 Judge Edmund H. Bennett, first Mayor of Taunton, Massachusetts, visited Taunton, England, this being one of the first, if not the first, of the visits of officials of one Taunton to the other. We give on the next page a reproduction of a photograph taken at Dunster Castle showing Judge Bermett on the steps of the Castle with officials of the English town by whom he was very hospitably entertained. This picture now hangs in the office of the City Clerk, Taunton, Massachusetts. On September 13, 1900, Mayor William Alfred Wrenn of Taunton, England, visited our Taunton to convey the respects of his borough, and to do honour to the early settlers of our town, who on March 3, 1639, settled here, chang- ing the name from Cohannet to Taunton, as they expressed it, "in honour and love to our dear and native country." His visit may have been made in response to the cable sent some months before by the Aldermen of our Taunton, which read as follows: — "Ordered that in consideration of the fact that the Taunton and Somerset Society of London, England, holds its annual meeting on May 2nd, and that the Society represents the ancestry of many of the citizens of Taunton and vicinity, the greetings and best wishes of the Mayor and Board of Aldermen of Taunton, Mass. be cabled to that Society." Mayor Wrenn was enthusiastically received and presented the following resolutions as an expression of good will from his native town: — "The Council of the Borough of Taunton, England, take the opportunity of the con- templated visit of their Mayor to Taunton, Mass. U.S.A. of continuing the friendly inter- communication which has for some years past taken place between the two towns, by sending friendly greetings and expressing a hope that continued and increased prosperity and happiness is being bestowed upon the citizens of Taunton, Mass. More particularly is the occasion taken advantage of, to accept most gratefuUy the kind and spontaneous expression of sympathy by the people of Taunton, Mass. with England in the dreadful war in So. Africa. The substantial contribution sent by the people of Taunton, Mass. in aid of the funds collected in England for the widows and children of soldiers who have lost their lives through the war, has awakened feelings of gratitude and affection not only in the town of Taunton, England, but amongst the EngUsh people." i86 TAUNTON, MASSACHUSETTS from a photograph in the ofnce of the City Clerk, Taunton, .\f.issachusetts Kindness Edwin A. Tetlozv, Esq. JUDGE EDMUND H. BENNETT, FIRST MAYOR OF TAUNTON, MASSACHUSETTS, ON A VISIT TO DUNSTER CASTLE, NEAR TAUNTON, SOMERSETSHIRE, ENGLAND, as the guest of the Corporation officials of that town in 1890. Judge Bennett is the third figure from the left in the second row from the top. Our Mayor presented to the distinguished visitor a beautiful silver loving cup as a token and memento of his happy visit to the city and a few days later our Com- mon Council addressed the following Unes to the mother town: — "Whereas on September 13, 1900, His Worship William Alfred Wrenn of Taunton, England, visited us bringing with him a message of friendship, fraternity, and good-will from the citizens and governing body of that city, which he presented with eloquent and instructive words, now be it Resolved, that Taunton in New England through vote of its Council express its hearty appreciation of the sentiment contained in the message, and the pleasure that it has afforded the municipality to entertain the distinguished messenger. It would further convey to its English cousins the sincere hope and desire that the future may witness a continuation and greater development of that far reaching spirit of fellow- ship which exists between the two cities, binding each year closer the ties of international duty; and be it further Resolved, that a copy of these resolutions be suitably engrossed and forwarded to the Mayor and governing body of Taunton, England." All of this interesting correspondence is filed in the City Hall of our Taunton. TAUNTON, MASSACHUSETTS 187 Our Taunton was not settled directly from Taunton in the mother country, but the early comers were from the southwest counties of England near ancient Taunton and this led them to select this name for their home in the western world. The earliest record we have of new Taunton is that Edward Winslow and Stephen Hopkins walked through Taunton to Narragansett Bay to hold an important meeting with the Indian King Massasoit. The first real record of Taunton, how- ever, was in 1637, when Richard Williams and a few Puritans from Dorchester built some houses there. We are told that the idea of erecting a memorial in memory of Williams ha3 been agitated several times by the family. There is a bridge over the Taunton River which is called the "Williams Bridge," but this was not erected as a memorial. Not long after Williams and his little band settled there they were followed by the families of Dean, Baylies, Tisdale, Morton, Cobb, Crocker, Lovering, Hall, Pool, Grossman, Williams and others. There are memorials erected near ^giiggg From a photograph Kindnfss Miss Edith M. Hodgman and Edwin A. Tetlow, Esq. MONUMENT IN MT. PLEASANT CEMETERY, TAUNTON, MASSACHUSETTS, over the grave of Elisabeth Pool, who purchased a large tract of land from the Indians near here, and who did much to build up the town in the early days. Her family came from Taunton, England. the home and on the grave of EHsabeth Pool, who bought a large tract of land from the Indians and became an active promoter of local interests. Miss Pool's fam- ily had long Uved in Taunton, Somerset County, England. During the two hun- dred and fiftieth anniversary of the town there was a tableau showing her making this purchase from the Indians, and this scene is depicted on the seal of the city. There have been many other interesting interchanges of presents and corre- spondence between the two places, the most important of which occurred durmg the two hundred and fiftieth anniversary which took place in 1889. The Mayor i88 TAUNTON, MASSACHUSETTS Photographed by Montague Cooper from an old print Kindness Ian Forbes-Robertson, Esq. OLD VIEW OF TAUNTON, ENGLAND St. James Church is on the right and St. Mary Magdalene's on the left. of old Taunton presented to the Old Colony Historical Society in new Taunton a stone cherub from St. Mary Magdalene's Church, which is now in the rooms of the Historical Society; also about the same time Edward Lebault of Taunton, England, gave to the Society a piece of the altar railing and pulpit ornament which was formerly a part of this same church. Invitations were sent to the Mayor, Aldermen and Councillors of the English town to be present at this celebration, and the following reply from the Mayor of Taunton was received: — "I beg to thank you and your Committee for your kind feelings towards us, and to assure you that although we shall not be present at your celebration our hearts will be with you, and we trust you will have a pleasant and enjoyable time. Our Corporation has decided to send you an address of congratulation which is being prepared." Many letters were exchanged between residents of the two places on both sides of the water, one of which describes in an interesting way a visit that James Russell Lowell made to the old town, on which occasion he delivered a lecture on Henry Fielding of Somersetshire, "The Father of the EngHsh Novel." After the celebration, the English Mayor again wrote and sent an address from his town which was framed in a piece of oak taken from St. Mary's Tower which was torn down thirty years before. This interesting souvenir is now hanging TAUNTON, MASSACHUSETTS 189 in the Aldermanic Chamber in our Taunton. A view of the old town was also shown attached to this address, also a cut of the old castle which is now used as a museum. The formal message received at the same time read as follows: — "Although unable to be present . . . we can assure you that the ties of kindred and tongue which bind your mighty Nation to the mother country are still further strengthened by the remembrance that there exists on the other side of the Atlantic a city worthy of handing down to posterity the name of Taunton which is endeared to us by the recollection of its historical past, the contemplation of its prosperous present and the promise of a still brighter future." Our Mayor and Council again replied and sent a souvenir of the cele- bration, together with an attractive picture showing the ''Mayflower" in Plymouth Harbour, a view of Taun- ton River, a sketch of Taunton Green and a picture of the City Hall. The message shown in the ac- companying photograph was framed from a timber that came from the Photographed hy Montague Cooper Kindness Ian Forbes-Robertson, Esq. MESSAGE SENT BY TAUNTON, MASSACHU- SETTS, TO TAUNTON, ENGLAND, IN 1889, on the occasion of the two hundred and fiftieth anni- torn a timber that came trom tne ^l^^-^X^Z^^^^^ Endish ship " Sparrowhawk " which ^^ich was wrecked off Cape Cod m 1626. The hull was wrecked off Cape Cod in .6.6, oHWyHip '^ "«« '" «'-™ «•• «--'-' ^^^ the hull of which vessel is now one of the relics exhibited in Pilgrim Hall in our Plymouth. The message reads as follows: — "The Mayor, Aldermen, and Common Council of Taunton, in New England mIyo™ Aldermen, and Burgesses of Taunton in old England. Greetim We have been deeply touched by the reception ^^ y^^^", ^^"^^ ^^^^' J^^^ Congra'tuladon upon the celebration of the .50th Anniversary ^^ ^he fou^^^^^^^^ Citv which happily arrived on the very day of its occurrence. We assure you tnat we fullv rlciprocate your kindly sentiments, so pleasantly expressed, and we fondly che ish the^eZy of^^^^^^^ ancientf brave, and loyal Borough with its ^-toric castle tsb^^^^^^^^ ful cCrch of St. Mary, and its charming river in that lovely vale of Taunton Dean. iQo TAUNTON, MASSACHUSETTS We wonder not that our fathers chose our name 'in honour and love to their dear and native country,' and we congratulate ourselves that they brought with them from their own land those lofty and sterUng principles of thought and action which have contributed so much to our prosperity, and secured for us the manifold blessings we now enjoy. May we never bring discredit on our ancient name, but rather lead our English mother to ever feel a just pride in her American daughter, and may the bonds of love and amity between us, and between our respective countries grow stronger till time shall be no more. Given in our Council Chamber this eighth day of August a.d. 1889." An interesting account of the celebration appeared in one of the English news- papers in Taunton, entitled "Taunton's American Daughter." Wilfred Marshall of Taunton, England, is very familiar with our town, having visited it three or four times. That the citizens of Taunton, England, still keep up their interest in the New England city is evidenced by a visit made here in February, 1921, by Thomas I. Perry, a local magistrate of the mother town, who called upon Mayor Coughlin and the other officials at City Hall. In discussing the visit to Taunton, Massa- chusetts, made by former Mayor Wrenn of his town in 1900, he stated that the late Mayor's widow was the first woman member of the town council of Taunton, England. "Ich was bore at Taunton Deane where should I be bore else?" is the boast of the inhabitants of old Taunton and the nearby towns, which are situated in what is called "Taunton Dean" or the "Vale of Taunton." The name Taunton is derived from the river Thone, sometimes called Tone, which flows through the town. The name is also sometimes said to have been derived from the Gaelic "Taun" meaning "of the river" and "town," contracted into Taunton. The castle of Taunton built by the Bishop of Winchester (see next page) is the im- portant object of interest in the town. Near this site there was once a castle which was built in 700 by Ina, King of Wessex, who dwelt there. The present castle held out very gallantly against the royal forces in 1625 and the following lines indicate the joy of the town on being saved : — "The eleventh of May was a joyful day. When Taunton got relief; Which turned our sorrows into joy, And eased us of our grief." The full history of this castle is one long record of romance and to the New Eng- lander who has read of the witchcraft and superstition of his country, it may be interesting to mention one of the objects that is religiously kept in this old building. It was believed that if a pig died, a witch had "overlooked it," to use an Enghsh expression. After the pig's death its heart was filled with pins, stuck into it as in a pin-cushion, and it was then put in the chimney. As long as the heart remained there, it was supposed that no witch could have power over any other pig belonging TAUNTON, MASSACHUSETTS 191 PhotOfir..plied by Munt.gue C per Jr m an old pnnt TAUNTON CASTLE, TAUNTON, ENGLAND The castle dates back to the eighth century, although it has been much renovated. to that house. A very old example was found in an ancient house and removed to this castle, where it is still exhibited as a relic of the old days. It may be interesting to mention that Thomas Chaucer, the son of Geoffrey Chaucer, "the father of Enghsh poetry," was at one time constable of this castle, which gives us an idea of its antiquity. There is a village near our Taunton called Britarmiaville, so named because of the fact that britannia ware was first manufactured in the United States in an old building now belonging to the Reed and Barton Corporation. The village arose around this little shop. The ware was so named because it originated in Britain near Sheffield. A number of Englishmen came over from England to work in this trade and their countrymen have continued to come up to the present time. 192 TOPSFIELD, MASSACHUSETTS NOT long ago when a visitor from Topsfield, Massachusetts, visited the mother town, the driver of the carriage, in reply to the question as to how the English Toppesfield got its name, said: "Well, they must-a-caught it as it came along. Come by a whirlwind perhaps." Another old character de- clared it was probable that it was so named on accoimt of being the topmost vil- lage in the shire. The place undoubtedly derived its name in Saxon times from a chieftain called Toppa, who owned this territory. At various times the town has been called Toppesfend, Toppesford and Thopefield. A visitor to the mother town from New England on looking over the church register at St. Margaret's in this Essex village found the following names, all well known to our Topsfield and vicinity: Allen, Barker, Barnes, Clarke, Davison, Hale, Hardy, Palmer, Reed, Rice, Smith, Wildes and Wilson. In this church register appears the name of ''Samuel Symonds, Gent." and his wife Dorothy, as well as the records of baptism of their ten children born between the years 1621 and 1633. Samuel Symonds afterwards lived in Ipswich in New England and was a prominent man and "Assistant" or member of the Governor's Council. It was Symonds who was responsible for the change of name from New Meadows to Topsfield in remembrance of the parish in old England where he had worshipped. From a photograph Kindness George Francis Dow, Esq. TOPPESFIELD, ENGLAND, from which place Topsfield, Massachusetts, received its name. TOPSFIELD, MASSACHUSETTS 193 F^m a photograph '""" K„u!mss G.-orse Francis Do:r, Esq. ST. MARGARET'S CHURCH, TOPPESFIELD, ENGLAND Samuel Symonds, the Assistant, who settled in Ipswich in the Massachusetts Bay Colony and was instru- mental in the naming of Topsfield, was a communicant in this church and here his children were baptized. There are also a number of other names in the register of the Enghsh church that are well known in this New England town. Zaccheus Gould, another early settler, wanted the settlement called Hempstead because he came from Hemel Hempstead in England, but the Court ruled other- wise. Other early settlers besides Gould were William Perkins of London, WilHam Towne, William Howard, Francis Peabody, John Wilde and Thomas Baker. Topsfield, Massachusetts, received its name in 1650, although it was settled as early as 1639; it was an offshoot of Agawam, the early name of Ipswich and those chiefly responsible for its settlement were two of the party of John Winthrop, Jr., who left Ipswich to come over to this new town. A well-known minister in our Topsfield was Rev. Joseph Capen of witchcraft times, who married a daughter of John Appleton of Ipswich and whose fine old seventeenth century manse with overhanging second-story has been restored and now is owned and occupied by the local Historical Society. This attractive New England town has become the favorite summer resort of many prominent people. The only interchange which has taken place between the daughter and mother towns occurred in August, 1900, at the two hundred and fiftieth anniversary of the 194 TOPSFIELD, MASSACHUSETTS incorporation of Topsfield. At this time a cable of congratulations from Toppes- field, England, was read at the meeting and a suitable reply flashed back to the English town, while the school-children sang "To thee, O Country." Mr. George Francis Dow in his address at this two hundred and fiftieth anni- versary relates an amusing story concerning "Goodman" Neland, who had built his house across the boundary line between Topsfield and Ipswich. For years the constables called to collect taxes and always found him in the other part of. the house and therefore, of course, in the other town. Finally the Topsfield constable on one of his visits climbed into the pig-pen and secured a good fat pig, the sale of which enabled him to recover the necessary taxes. Topsfield, Maine, a small township in the eastern part of the State, was chris- tened in honour of Topsfield, Massachusetts, by Nehemiah Kneeland who moved to Maine from the Massachusetts town. WALTHAM, MASSACHUSETTS ON January i6, 1888, there was held in the Music Hall in Waltham the celebration of the one hundred and fiftieth anniversary of the founding of the town, on which occasion the residents paid their homage to the spirit of the past by flying in the building many American and British flags draped together, and by surmounting one group of banners with a shield bearing the arms and motto of the Prince of Wales. There have been no official visits between the two Walthams, though many people from our city have journeyed to Waltham Abbey, from which our city derived its name. Although at the present time there is little in the appearance of the prosperous Massachusetts city that would recall the historic old English town, it is probable that at the time of the incorporation of our Waltham in 1738, there was some similarity between the "forest home" on the Charles River and that on the river Lea. The name Waltham is supposed to be derived from the Saxon "Wealdham," meaning a "home in the forest," or "wild," and to this day forests cover probably more than half of the territory of the New England city. Certainly visions of "Harold's town " with the Lea winding in and out among the fertile meadows must have been in the minds of Wilham Brown, Samuel Livermore, Daniel Benjamin and other dwellers in the western precinct of Watertown, Massachusetts, when, their petition to have their precinct "erected into a separate and distinct township" having been granted, they con- ferred upon the newly made town the name of Waltham. As one historian has suggested, it must have been peculiarly gratifying to these early settlers "thus to preserve ever present amid new associations and surroundings the recollections of their old homes across the sea." The first actual settler within the town limits is supposed to have been John Page who in 1643 had a house near the present Water- WALTHAM, MASSACHUSETTS i95 town line; Samuel Bigelow had a house on the western part of the Great Country Road before 1686, while AUen Flagg and Jonathan Sanderson built at Piety Corner about 1689. Waltham has furnished two Massachusetts Governors, Christopher Gore, who was at one time United States Senator and also special Minister to Eng- land, and Nathaniel P. Banks. The EngUsh village is located on the left bank of the river Lea, about twelve miles northeast of London, in the county of Essex, to which locaUty also belongs Nasing, the birthplace of the Rev. John Eliot, famous for his religious ministrations to the 'Indians and the early settlers of New England. No small part of John Eliot's early work was among the Indians in the vicinity of Watertown and Wal- tham, and the fact that Waltham Abbey was near Nasing may have suggested to the elrly settlers this name for the American town. The exact place where Ehot preached was on the shore of a large sheet of water which was first called the " Great Pond in the Woods," and the Indian tribe to which he preached continued on its shores until the year 1676. To those familiar with its history, both authentic and legendary, the name of old Waltham will ever be tinged with romance. Thither came Tovi the Proud, standard-bearer to Canute the Dane, King of England, early in the eleventh century, and built for himself in the forest a hunting seat, near which he established a village of "three score and six dwellers." Here also he founded, about 1020 a.d., the Church of the Holy Cross and thus it came about that the town was also called at one time Waltham Holy Cross. Later Waltham came into the possession of Earl Harold, who, out of gratitude for his wonderful cure by the "holy cross," erected in 1059 a monastery upon the site of Tovi's church. After Harold was killed in 1066 in the famous battle of Hastings he was buried in this monastery which, as stated below, came to be known later as Waltham Abbey. In 1177, Harold's college was dissolved and an Augustinian Priory was founded by Henry II, which in 1184 became Waltham Abbey. The history of this edifice is, as old Thomas Fuller says, "the history of the Church of England." To this Abbey came, for various reasons, many of the English royalty, from the time of Harold, its founder, to the days of Charles 11. One of the most picturesque corners of the old town is "Romeland," an open square of quaint, high-gabled and stuccoed red brick houses, while in another part, spanning the Corn Mill stream, is a remnant of very early architecture known as Harold's Bridge. In Waltham also is the house of Master Cressy, in which Cran- mer, Fox and Gardner in 1533 discussed the question of the separation of Henry .- Vlli from Catherine of Aragon. Here in the forests the Stuarts did a great deal of hunting and near Waltham still can be seen the house where it is said that James I, during one of his hunts, using his sword for a carving-knife, patted a joint of beef and called it "Sir Loin." Beautiful Epping Forest, the playground of thousands of Londoners on bank holidays, is near Waltham. WALTHAM, MASSACHUSETTS 197 There is one historic feature in the old Enghsh town of Waltham which visi- tors will always be interested in, and that is old Temple Bar which for several centuries stood at the west end of Fleet Street and was one of the entrances into the real old city of London. In the year 1878 Temple Bar was entirely removed and was subsequently rebuilt at the entrance to Theobald's Park, Waltham. The first mention of the Bar is in 1361, and a curious custom was from time immemorial observed at this point. Before the Sovereign could enter the city proper his carriage was halted while the Lord Mayor presented his sword of office to the monarch, who after receiving the sword returned it to the Mayor, and until this ceremony had been gone through the King was not allowed to enter the city. A huge stone griffin, or dragon, now occupies the site of the ancient Temple Bar. In 1 8 13, the works of the Boston INIanufacturing Company were estabHshed in our Waltham, and not only for the manufacturing of cotton goods did the city become noted, but also for the watches made at the famous Waltham Watch factory, supposed to be the largest works of its kind in existence. The Gore and Lyman estates, the most attractive probably of the time, carry out the meaning of the word Waltham, "a home in a forest," on account of their beautiful trees. The Lyman place was originally granted to William Paine, being later purchased by John Livermore, who came to this country in 1634 and who was one of the most impor- tant men of the town, besides being the progenitor of most of the Livermores in this country. The descendants of John Livermore owned this place until 1780, when it was sold to Jonas Dix. In 1793 it came into the possession of Theodore Lyman, whose descendants still occupy the old residence. Isaac Stearns, a grand- son of one of the early pioneers, and William Wellington also owned much land in the early days of the town. We read of many Fourth of July celebrations held on Stearns's wood-lot and in WelHngton's Grove, which were both usually full of partridges and quail. There is also a Waltham in Maine and one in Vermont. WARWICK, MASSACHUSETTS, AND WARWICK, RHODE ISLAND SAMUEL GORTON, who was born in Gorton, England, and who probably named Portsmouth, Rhode Island, was the founder of the Rhode Island Warwick in 1642, those associated with him being Randall Holden and John Greene, both of Salisbury, England, and Francis Weston. They were soon driven out of their settlement by the Massachusetts Bay Colony troops, but after obtain- ing royal sanction for their settlement returned to it. The final success of Gorton and his few followers against the overwhelming number of their enemies, the Mas- sachusetts Bay colonists, greatly impressed the Indians, as described by Gorton in these words: — 198 WARWICK, MASSACHUSETTS and RHODE IS^LAND Photographed by F. Frith &" Co., Surrey, England Kindness Ian Forbes-Robertson, Esq. WARWICK CASTLE, WAR,WICKSHIRE, ENGLAND "The Indians called the English in their tongue Wattaconoges (meaning those who wear clothes or coat men). They now called us Gortonoges, and being that they had heard of a great war to be in Old England, they presently framed unto them a cause of our deliverance, imagining that there were two kinds of people in Old England, the one called by the name of Enghshmen and the other Gortonoges; and concluded that the Gortonoges were a mightier people than the English . . . and therefore . . . thought it not safe to take away our lives because however few there were of us in New England in comparison with those who came out against us, yet that great people in Old England would come over and put them to death if they should take away our lives." This town was named for Robert, Earl of Warwick, Lord High Admiral, rather than for the leading town of Warwickshire, known as the "Heart of England." We have, nevertheless, included Warwick on account of the prominence of the Enghsh town and its attractiveness to Americans and Englishmen. The Earl of Warwick was Governor-in-Chief of Foreign Plan- tations and chairman of the Commission that granted the charter to the Rhode Island town and affirmed Gorton's right to Shawomet. It was out of gratitude to him that the old name of Shawomet was changed to Warwick in the year 1647. Thousands of Americans each year visit the old residential seat of the Earls of Warwick, Warwick Castle, now leased to Henry W. Marsh, Esq., of New York, of ffi P !? t»' O 7* Cu^ f^ ro r: n '-I • IT' ^ i_( rn, S-. •-t <; c/i c/3 _-r^ r^ P re c* ^ ni c 1-1 -T- O ^ <^ ^ 2." P 9 S 5 03 ^ p 03 « r* r+ !-l 2"^^ ^- O P o 3 ^ 3 C ■=>^^P — . a o" 2 r+ o n> <^ ^ o g:-^ a ■ ::;^ re O 5. i-j p re r^ -r S 3 ^^ o l-^ p ^ OP 3 < r^ ^' ^^ re re • £i 3 ■_, re ^ ■I <^ 2. ,„ • re '-' =£ 3 ^ g S- ^ CD P <-^ o *^ p p tr p -1 Ul fn C/^ •-( O iHC 3 cr re "U , ^ p ^ re r' tfl 2 t« O ^ re re r^ e S. 5 3-3 r> p-5-^" 3 5;^ o re 5* P "-ire Hf 8 re g« 3 5.^0 200 WARWICK, MASSACHUSETTS and RHODE ISLAND the Harvard Class of '85, who was Assistant Manager of the Harvard Surgical Unit which did such splendid work during the war that it was commended in a letter written by King George V. The Unit began service on July 17, 1915, at the 22nd General Hospital in France, where it "carried on" till the end of the war, caring for a tenth of the British casualties on the Western Front. On its return to Boston, the weather-stained Stars and Stripes and the Union Jack which had flown over the hospital during the years of strife were presented at a mass meeting at the Harvard Club of Boston to President Lowell, who turned them over to the Harvard Medical School. The members of this Unit were entertained at the Castle on their way through England and while there had an opportunity to see the wonder- ful paintings by Van Dyck, Velasquez, Reynolds, Rubens, Holbein and others, also the peacocks for which the Castle has long been famous, and the attractive grounds. One of the curios of the Castle is a huge bowl known as Guy's Punch- bowl, so named after the celebrated mythical personage "Guy of Warwick." This curiosity was made for Sir John Talbot, and an old couplet makes reference to him and his odd bowl in these words:— "There's nothing left of Talbot's fame But Talbot's Pot and Talbot's Lane." The English borough is situated near the center of the shire, on a hill encircled by a long curve of the Avon and within sight of the Castle grounds where the well- known Warwickshire hounds have often hunted their fox. Nearby is Leamington, a score of years ago one of the great fox-hunting centers of England. Henry James was very fond of Warwickshire, in fact it was a place to which the intellectuals of both hemispheres journeyed, including Sir Walter Scott, Nathaniel Hawthorne, who wrote of Warwick in "Our Old Home," Thackeray, Dickens and George Eliot. Near the Castle is St. Mary's Church, and in the middle of the choir appear recumbent figures representing the first Thomas Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick, and his second wife, who both died in 1369. This Thomas Beauchamp was one of the ancestors of Randall Holden's wife. The great feature of this church is Beauchamp Chapel and in it Hes the body of Richard Beauchamp, Earl of War- wick, who died in 1439, and Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester, the favorite of Queen Elizabeth. Dudley founded the Leicester Hospital in Warwick. The tower of St. Mary's Church contains a peal of ten bells which plays a tune every three hours, but a different tune every day of the week, which serves to remind the townspeople not only of the hour but of the day. A mile north of Warwick on the banks of the Avon is the famous Guy's Cliff, in far-off ages the retreat of the pilgrim Sir Guy. The present mansion of Guy's Cliff, which dates from the begin- ning of the eighteenth century, is partially hewn out of soKd rock. The English Warwick held a great pageant during the week of July 4, 1906, on the Castle grounds on the occasion of the one thousandth anniversary of Queen WARWICK, MASSACHUSETTS and RHODE ISLAND 201 Photographed by F. Frith &• Co., Surrey, England 'Kindness Ian Forbes-Robcrlson , Esq. LEICESTER HOSPITAL, WARWICK, ENGLAND Ethelfreda's conquest of Mercia. On that day, the Stars and Stripes were dis- played on the grandstand, and the namesakes of Warwick in this country, which doubtless included the Warwicks of New England, were represented on this occasion. This group was photographed, but unfortunately the plate was lost. ^ The Massachusetts Warwick, which is near Worcester, has sometimes been called the "Switzerland of America." It was one of the four grants made by the General Court in 1735 for his ''Majestie's Province in the Massachusetts Bay." Samuel Newall and others signed the first petition for the town, which was called the "plantation of Roxbury," or "Gardner's Canada," so called because the pref- erence of sites was given to those who were descendants of the officers and soldiers who served in the expedition to Canada in 1690. Warwick was incorporated in 1763 and was named either for Warwick or for Guy, Earl of Warwick. 203 WATERTOWN, MASSACHUSETTS THE family of Sir Richard Saltonstall, who sailed from Yarmouth, England, in the ship "Arbella," and who founded our Watertown, came from the small villages of Nether and Over Saltonstall, which are a part of Halifax, in the West Riding of Yorkshire. Mr. Richard M. Saltonstall, who has edited an interesting book, written by Hon. Leverett Saltonstall, describing Sir Richard Salton- stall's ancestry and descendants, a short time ago visited the two \dllages in England which are named for his family and when he arrived there the people expressed their fear that one of the family had come back to claim the land. These two hamlets (of which we give pictures, on this page and the next) are very small and almost deserted, yet they form a most interesting link between England and America. Back of these old towns is Saltonstall Moor, which is well known to sportsmen. The Enghsh family of Saltonstall can be traced back from Thomas de Salton- stall to Frederick II, Earl of Guilford, the first record we have beginning with the former. In 1597, a Sir Richard Saltonstall was Lord Mayor of London. We have included a cut of the Church of St. John the Baptist in Halifax, where from the year From ^'Ancestry &" Descendants of Sir Richard Saltonstall," Riverside Press, 1897 Kindness R. M. Saltonstall, Esq. NETHER SALTONSTALL, NEAR HALIFAX, ENGLAND Here lived the Saltonstall family so well knovra in this country, and early settlers in Watertown, Haverhill and Ipswich, Massachusetts. 204 WATERTOWN, MASSACHUSETTS From "Ancestry Cs° Descendanu of Sir Rich rd S It nil R ' i>c Pre<:s, iSpy Kindness R. M. Saltan tall, Erg. THE OLD CHAPEL, OVER SALTONSTALL, NEAR HALIFAX, ENGLAND 1539 have been recorded forty-four marriages and one hundred and twenty baptisms in the Saltonstall family. The records in this country show that "Sir Richard Saltonstall, Rev. George Phillips, and a goodly number of planters went up the Charles River four miles to a place well watered" and settled their plantation just below the place where Mt. Auburn is now situated and very near the home of the late James Russell Lowell. This territory, the fourth settlement in the Colony, was first called "Sir Richard Saltonstall's Plantation," but was later named Watertown by the Court, either on ac- count of its natural features or, more probably, from a place by the name of Waterton in England. Saltonstall was the first subscriber to the church covenant of Water- town and he was also an original patentee of Connecticut with Lord Saye and Sele, Lord Brooke and others. Saltonstall remained in Watertown only a short time, but was always interested in the Colony, his two sons remaining there after he had left. Saltonstall Square in Watertown was named after him in remembrance of all he did for the settlement in its first days. President Quincy said of him that after Harvard and Winthrop he was the next greatest benefactor of Harvard College. The Sal- tonstall family had much to do with the Ipswich settlement and for five generations lived in and helped Haverhill. There is also a Watertown in Connecticut. 205 T WEYMOUTH, MASSACHUSETTS ''Cohasset for beauty, Hingham for pride, If not for its herring, ^ Weymouth had died." HE chief feature of interest between tlie two Weymouths is the visit of I Tud^e Louis A. Cook to old Weymouth in 19x4. to attend the unveihng of 1 he memorial that was placed there to John Endicott of Dorchester, Eng- , H !nd Sard Clark near the wharf from which they sailed, the former to :f' Amfr ca to b come Governor of the Massachusetts Bay Colony, and the at?a mo knolSot .... r^ TTT. tVif. -npTPP of Amiens was discussed here, ana wiuuu n-s v of Kmg George III, f^ P^^" "/^ , „„, „f Nelson's officers, just before the the Kmg -'d "1 to Capmn H-dy ^^^ ^^^ ^^^^.^^^ ^^^ battle of Trafalgar. After mncneou 1 Endicott Chamberlain and all the other guests on the site of the jetty f ™m w hi: sTtrd H^lT/r ': h^ed the account was not closed and that bet e on this hundredth anniversary of peaceful friendship ™«h^ j^„„ national anthems of the two countries. The memorial J WEYMOUTH, MASSACHUSETTS 207 i5r»- ^-•w" S:-^_OC .^ "A-N /■-VZ. j'.-C ^''^r ^c:HKif:N3:ccTT Yhotlgr'aphed bTEd'-cal^' H . Sr.vard Kindness Ian FoTbe7-RobeTtson, Esq BRONZE MEDALLION PLACED ON THE MEMORIAL IN WEYMOUTH, ENGLAND, in honour of Richard Clark and John Endicott. placed on the stone column which is shown in the accompanying picture, and the medalhon, which is also pictured and which is attached to the monument, bears the following inscription: — In Memory of RICHARD CLARK Captain and Pilot of Weymouth, who in 1583 sailed thence to join Sir Humphrey Gilbert's Voyage of discovery to Newfoundland, and of JOHN ENDICOTT who on June 20, 1628, set forth from Weymouth in the ship "Abigail" on the expedition which led to the establishment of the plantation at Salem, Massachusetts. Erected by PubUc Subscription 1914- Weymouth in this country was the lirst permanent settlement in Boston Har- bour and is the second oldest town in Massachusetts antedating Boston by at le^^ six years and, next to Plymouth, is the oldest colony m the State. ^^ ^^f'° oto "ferred'to as the "Alma Mater of BostonMor '^e reason that ^^Uhm Blackstone the first settler in Boston, came from Weymouth. The earliest pio n e s n oui Weymouth did not come from the town of the same name m England W manv did come here the year after the first settlement of the town m X6.3 by RobrrGo' es s": o Sir Fe'rdinando Gorges. At this time our Weymouth was kno^n a?Wessagusset. Some years later Rev. Mr. Hall, who was born m Somer- setsli^e sailed from Weymouth for this country, and it is mentioned m old Wey- r^outh that under date of March 30, 1635, "about one hundred people are recorded Tbound here '■ meaning America. Abigail (Smith) Adams was one of the origma "ttlers of ou Weymouth and among other eariy comers we can mention the nam of Bursley Jeffries and probably Ludden as having come over with Gorges. Some Weymouth. WEYMOUTH, MASSACHUSETTS 209 The town for which our Weymouth is named has often been called the English Naples. It is situated in the county of Dorset on the south side of the river Wey, from which it gets its name, which was originally derived from "Waeye," meaning " water " and "mud," being the Saxon word for "mouth of the river." The town has a fine harbour and has always been a commercial port; it is now also a great water- ing-place. Into this attractive port the Roman Navy often found its way and years later two ships of the Spanish Armada were brought here as prizes. The earliest history of the town dates back to 938 a.d. in the time of King Athelstan, the next mention of it in history being in the Saxon charter of King Ethelred. One interesting incident occurred at the time King Philip of Spain was driven into the harbour by a hurricane. John Russell, of Berwick Hovse, knew Spanish so well that he was chosen to act as interpreter for the royal party. King Henry was informed of the unexpected arrival of the Spanish King and sent him an invitation to visit him in London. Russell accompam'ed the visitor and made such a favor- able impression on King Philip that the latter recommended him especially to the English King. It happened later that Russell became a favorite with King Henry's son, who created him Duke of Bedford, a name also closely associated with our New Bedford. A WINCHESTER, MASSACHUSETTS TEMPORARY memorial to the American soldiers who fell in the Great War has been placed in the south aisle of the Cathedral in Winchester, England, and the inscription reads as follows: — This window and these panels have been reserved by the Dean and Chapter for the dedication of a perpetual memorial to be erected by the British Nation to those GALLANT AMERICANS who have given'their lives for the cause of freedom in the Great War 1914-191 . A more permanent memorial in the form of a window is now being built in the south aisle of the Cathedral. The ancient city of Winchester is a fitting place for such a memorial because of the fact that one hundred thousand troops of the American Expeditionary Forces came to the city from the nearby port of South- ampton where they disembarked. It was at Winchester, too, that one of the largest American rest camps was established, and an added inducement that undoubtedly appealed to the British authorities in the selection of this site for a memorial was the fact that five hundred and fifty-three of our brave soldiers, who died of influenza, lie buried in the military cemetery on Morn Hill in Winchester. A further appropriateness lies in the fact that Winchester was at one time the ancient capital of England and was the home of so many kings that it has often been called "Royal Winchester." Henry I here celebrated his marriage to Matilda of Scotland and their son, William, was born in this ancient city; Henry III was 2IO WINCHESTER, MASSACHUSETTS ^» my^ ; RESERVI3D-py 11 II- DrAN-^-CHAn l;1<-K)K-THE ; DRDICATION-OF-A pr;Ri fJlIM ->\&'^R1ALT0 : BKERECTED BN^Ti iLPlvTlSi ! NAI'IONID^ i()SE GMIANT /\A\rR!C\NS WHOl lAVtCiiVEN TMEIP.-L1\ LSFORTHFCM iSl- : GF-REFI)OAVIN-THE GREy\T-\^.'\R-19l4- 1^1 P-Myjsi From a photograph Kivdness Major Evelyn Wrench and Henry G. Lord, Esq. also born here; Henry IV was married here; Henry V received here the Ambassador of Charles of France; Henry VI often visited here; Henry VII journeyed here with his queen in order that his child should be born in England's old capital, and Henry VIII spent a week here in 1522 and entertained the Emperor Charles V of Austria. King Edward III made Winches- ter one of his ten staple towns for wool and leather, with the idea of reviving its prestige. Here also Queen Mary entertained Phihp, Prince of Spain, previous to their marriage; King James I was the last king to reside in the castle. It was during the reign of Henry III that the city as a governing center began to decline in impor- tance, the chief reason being that the treasury was transferred to London. Outside the west gate of the city was situated the King's hawk-house, in which falconers kept the birds in the days when falconry was so much indulged in. Winchester was the home of Alfred the Great, and here he ruled wisely and well for eighteen years; it was here that he wrote his Saxon Chronicles. It was also in Winchester that the original Domesday Book was compiled and here it was kept as long as the city was the capital of the kingdom. It may be also claimed that Winchester was the cradle of the British Empire, for it was here that King Alfred laid the foundations of the British Navy. It is also interesting to mention that Sir Walter Raleigh was tried and imprisoned in Winchester before his execution in London. The Cathedral, of course, is the center of interest to visitors, and it will be re- membered that Emerson thought it the most beautiful in England with the excep- tion of York Minster. An attraction in the city is the house where Jane Austen lived and died, her body being buried in the Cathedral. New Englanders will be interested to know that the renowned Izaak Walton was also buried there. Bishop Lawrence of our Boston preached officially in Winchester Cathedral in the year 1920. Like all mediaeval cities, Winchester was surrounded by a wall which was origi- TEMPORARY MEMORIAL PLACED IN WIN- CHESTER CATHEDRAL, WINCHESTER, ENGLAND, to the memory of the Americans who lost their lives in the Great War. WINCHESTER, MASSACHUSETTS 211 1 From a photograph Kindness Mrs. Mary Fifield King WINCHESTER CATHEDRAL, WINCHESTER, ENGLAND, in which has recently been placed by the British Nation a memorial to the Americans who gave their lives in the Great War. Winchester was the capital of England under Alfred the Great (849 a.d.). The cathe- dral, built in the eleventh century, is the chief attraction in this ancient city. nally Roman, but practically nothing of this remains intact. One of the gates was changed to its present aspect by the Normans. It may also be mentioned that the original municipal flag of the English city was presented to its American namesake in Virginia during the latter part of 191 9. Our New England Winchester has taken an interest in the city of the same name in England and the PubHc Library of our town has several times sent reports and memoranda regarding its war activities, a number of letters in reply having been received describing the large American War Camp near the English city. Edward Converse, a staunch old Puritan, who came over in Winthrop's colony, was the first settler of the territory now called Winchester, Massachusetts, having built and occupied the first house here in 1640. This humble dwelling stood on the site which many generations later was occupied by the Thompson estate, next to the Post-ofiice. A "corne mill," the first business establishment in Winchester, was also built by this pioneer. This section of the country, considered by the dwellers along the seacoast as a "remote land," was at that time a wild, unsettled part of Charlestown, called Waterfield, included in the original territory granted to Charlestown in 1633 by the General Court. After certain grants by the General Court in 1640 the place was renamed " Charlestowne Village." On October 6, 1642, an act was passed by the General Court incorporating Woburn into a sepa- rate town, the act reading, " Charlestowne Village is called Wooburne," so that much of the present territory of Winchester was a part of Woburn until 1850, when 212 WINCHESTER, MASSACHUSETTS Photographed hy H. IV. Salmon &" Son, IVinchester, England Kindness Ian Forbes-Robertson, Esq. HOUSE IN WINCHESTER, ENGLAND, WHERE JANE AUSTEN LIVED AND DIED the town was incorporated under its present name. The territory included in this new township was taken from Woburn, Medford and West Cambridge (now Arhngton) . The early settlers in this section had a difhcult time gaining a foothold in the wilderness, some of them being obliged to burrow into the hillside to obtain their first shelter. Included within the limits of the town was the farm of John Harvard, the founder of Harvard College. There is also a Winchester in Connecticut and one in New Hampshire. WINDSOR MAINE, NEW HAMPSHIRE, VERMONT, MASSACHUSETTS AND CONNECTICUT WINDSOR is one of the popular names for towns in America and each of the New England States, with the exception of Rhode Island, has a place so called. The Connecticut town was named for the English Windsor while the Massachusetts town was named for this early settlement in Connecticut, having been called Gageborough in honour of General Gage of Revo- lutionary fame until the year 1778. The Maine town was first called Malta and later Gerry, and curiously enough was named for the Enghsh town by a Frenchman 214 WINDSOR, ME., N. H., VT., MASS. and CONN. called Anthony Coombs, the reason for this name, therefore, being difficult to dis- cover. The New Hampshire town is very small, having also received its name from the Windsor in Connecticut, while the Vermont town derived its name in a similar way. The English town, from which all these places got their names either directly or indirectly, is a municipal borough incorporated by Edward IV, situated on the south bank of the Thames. The ancient name was Windelsora, meaning ''the winding shore" (or "winding waters near the Castle"). Windsor itseh is chiefly important on account of its Royal Castle which covers a tremendous area. It was begun by William, enlarged by his son Henry, rebuilt to a large extent by Edward III and further enlarged by many of the English monarchs since then. Within the Royal Mausoleum are the tombs of Queen Victoria and Prince Albert. The place is usually called New Windsor to distinguish it from Old Windsor, which is about two miles away. In July, 1896, the Ancient and Honorable Artillery Com- pany of Boston, as guests of the late Queen Victoria, were received very graciously at Windsor Castle, where they were reviewed by the Queen and a large coterie of her distinguished subjects. Nearby is the well-known Eton, with its school, situ- ated on the river Thames. WOBURN, MASSACHUSETTS AT the time of the two hundred and fiftieth anniversary celebration of the /\ city of Woburn, in 1892, a number of interchanges of messages took place A \ with the English Woburn and several officials of the latter were invited to be present. During the exercises Rev. Edward G. Porter, of Lexington, who had been a visitor to the old Woburn, told of his trip there, particularly mentioning Woburn Abbey, in which, however, despite the name, there is no longer any trace of a rehgious establishment. It stands in a park of 3,500 acres, enclosed by a high brick wall, twelve miles in circuit, and the old fish-ponds of the monks are now beautiful sheets of water enlivened by ducks and swans, while herds of deer may be seen quietly grazing over the sloping lawns. The portrait-galleries of this Abbey are famous and include paintings by Titian, Van Dyck, Rubens, Rembrandt, Teniers, Murillo and others. Mr. Porter was so interested in this fine collection that, at his request, the Duke of Bedford, who owned Woburn Abbey, presented catalogues of his collection to the public libraries of Woburn, Lexington and Bed- ford, in America. Judge Edward F. Johnson, of the Massachusetts Woburn, visited the mother town and its Abbey in 1879. He was treated with great hos- pitaHty by Hon. George Russell, M.P., and upon his return home he wrote an account of his visit which was afterwards published in England and resulted in a very cordial letter from a member of the Russell family. Old Woburn, or Woubourne as it was once called, dates from Saxon times, and WOBURN, MASSACHUSETTS 215 From " Views u) H'oiurn," fi.Jier &• Sons, Wohum, England Kindness Judge Edward F. Johnson WOBURN ABBEY, WOBURN, ENGLAND The seat of the Russell family, which has taken a great interest in Woburn, Massachusetts. although little is known of its early history, it was chosen for the site of an abbey in the twelfth century, when fourteen monks took up their residence there and gave much attention to the mill facilities that were ofifered by the brooks. In the reign of Henry VHI, on the dissolution of the monasteries, the Abbey reverted to the crown. When this monarch came to the throne he gave the estate to John Russell, who was created Earl of Bedford. The latter 's successors, up to the year 1892, had included four Earls and ten Dukes. The famous Woburn Abbey is now the seat of the Duke of Bedford. Previous to the introduction of railways, Woburn, Bedfordshire, was a great center for stages and was a larger and busier town than it is at the present time. To-day its nearest railway station is known as Woburn Sands, which is some three miles distant from the town itself and about forty miles from London. There are three places in England from which it was thought for some time that the Massachusetts W^oburn might have derived its name: Woburn in Bed- fordshire, Woo-burn in Bucks County and 0-burn in Dorset, all three spellings having been used by the earliest settlers of the Massachusetts town. It is rather remarkable, as Mr. Porter says, "that not one of the first sixty towns in the colony received an Indian name, and only one or two were honored with Scripture names, 2l6 WOBURN, MASSACHUSETTS From " Viezcs of JVohurn,'" Fisher ^ So}is, JVohurn, Eup_i.ind Kiiuhi^^sj Judge Edward F, Johnson TOWN HALL AND GEORGE STREET, WOBURN, ENGLAND although the Puritan element was then so strong." It is also an interesting fact that no other town in America bears the name of Woburn, so far as we can learn. There is no contemporary record which explains the naming of our Woburn, but it is now known definitely that it derived its name from Woburn, Bedfordshire, and was so named by Captain Edward Johnson, the "father" of the town, in honour of his friend, Major-Gen. Robert Sedgwick, who was born in the Bedfordshire town. Sedgwick came to this country in 1635, was one of the earliest settlers in Charlestown and commander for several years of the Ancient and Honorable Artillery Company, of which both he and Johnson were charter members. Sedg- wick was also at one time commander of the Castle. He was a neighbor of John- son's in Charlestown, and in his famous book entitled "Wonder-working Providence of Sion's Saviour in New England" Johnson refers to Sedgwick in eulogistic terms, calling him "stout and active in all feats of war, nurst up in Londons Artillery garden, and furthered with fifteen years experience in N. E. exact theory, besides the help of a very good head-piece." In his first mention of Sedgwick in the Woburn Town Records, Johnson calls him "Noble Captain Sedgwick;" and Sedgwick's part in the work of exploring the land for the settlement of the town, and the influential position he held in deciding upon its present site, are also set forth by Johnson in the first volume of the Woburn Records. Sedgwick, however, never lived in Woburn and apparently never intended to. Johnson was its first WOBURN, MASSACHUSETTS 217 town clerk, the chairman of its first Board of Selectmen and the first deputy from Woburn to the General Court, and his leadership and influence were such in all matters relating to the organization and government of the new town that he would naturally have had the say as to its name. In recognition of the nativity of his distinguished friend, he chose the name of Woburn; and, at the General Court holden in Boston September 27 (October 7, n.s.), 1642, it was ordered "That Charlestowne Village is called Wooborne." It may be interesting to mention that Charles Goodyear, the inventor of the process of vulcanizing India rubber, lived in our Woburn as early as 1835 in a house now standing, in that part of Woburn called Montvale; he was at that time poor and unknown, and it was while warming himself one cold night in the village store that his great idea occurred to him. In Woburn also was born Benjamin Thomp- son, afterwards made Count Rumford, who became a famous philosopher and scientist, known throughout Europe. John Fiske, the historian, in his History of the United States, says that Rumford was the greatest scientist America has pro- duced, and it is as a scientist that he is honoured in his native town. In 1784, he was knighted by the King of England, and in 1791 was created a Count of the Holy Roman Empire by the Elector of Bavaria. He chose the title of Rumford in honour of Rumford, now Concord, New Hampshire, with which town his wife's family was prominently identified in the days of the early settlement. Count Rumford was founder, with a large endowment, of the Rumford Medal of the American Academy of Arts and Sciences, and of the Rumford Professorship in Harvard College. In an article pubhshed in the Youth's Companion, August 26, 1920, the late President Dr. Maclaurin of the Massachusetts Institute of Tech- nology gives an interesting account of some of Rumford 's inventions and experi- ments — "experiments that set the scientific world thinking and working in the right direction." A statue of Rumford was erected on the lawn of the Woburn Public Library in 1900, the inscription on the pedestal, prepared by President Charles W. Eliot of Harvard College, reading in part: — THE EARLIEST SCIENTIFIC PHILANTHROPIST HE PROVED THAT HEAT IS MOTION AND HAD A GLIMPSE OF THE GREAT DOCTRINE KNOWN LATER AS THE CONSERVATION OF ENERGY The house in which Rumford was born is still standing in North Woburn and is owned and maintained as a museum of local antiquities by the Rumford Histori- cal Association, organized and incorporated in 1877 for that purpose. In North Woburn there is a statue of Loammi Baldwin, a contemporary and 2i8 WOBURN, MASSACHUSETTS lifelono- friend of Rumford. The inscription states briefly his career, mentioning also the fact that he was one of the proprietors and a principal constructor of the Middlesex Canal, the first sheriff of Middlesex County, and then recording that he was DISSEMINATOR OF THE APPLE IN HONOR OF HIM CALLED THE BALDWIN ^VHICH PROCEEDED FROM A TREE ORIGINALLY GROWING WILD ABOUT TWO MILES NORTH OF THIS MONUMENT The Rumford Historical Association erected a monument some years ago near Chestnut Street (formerly Butters Row) in that part of old Woburn now Wilming- ton, Massachusetts, to mark the site of this original Baldwin apple tree. It may be interesting also to mention that ancestors of Presidents Pierce, Har- rison and Cleveland are buried in the old cemetery on Park Street in Woburn, while North Woburn has the distinction not only of being the birthplace of Count Rumford and of Col. Loammi Baldwin, but is also proud of the fact that it is the home of Grover Cleveland's first American ancesto-rs. In its Library building, Woburn possesses one of Richardson's masterpieces of architecture and on the walls of the reading-room is a collection of views of Woburn Abbey. The citizens of Woburn still take a great interest in the mother town, and several of them have visited there in recent years. YORK, MAINE YORK, Maine, may well be proud of the source from which she received her name, for that ancient cathedral city in Yorkshire on the banks of the Ouse, with its quaint and narrow streets, is most attractive and appeals to people of almost every taste. One of the lanes is called the Shambles and it is so narrow that neighbors on opposite sides can shake hands from the upper floors; there is another street in the city called Whipmawhopmagate, so named because it was the boundary for the public whipping of delinquents at the cart tail, a prac- tice used even on women at one time. According to legendary history, York was founded about looo B.C. by a Northumbrian king who christened it "Ebauricus." One thousand years later, authentic history records this city as being in the hands of the conquering Romans, who called it "Eboracum." Its present name of York is thought to be a possible contraction of the name "Jorvick," which was given to it during Danish occupancy. With the second campaign of Agricola in 79 A.D., the history of York is clearly defined and soon afterwards we learn that the YORK, MAINE 221 Emperor Hadrian here com- pleted the famous chain of forts known as the " Pict Wall," which almost surrounds the city and provides a delightful walk. Examples of their ancient build- ings also exist. Constantine the Great was proclaimed Emperor in 306 by the Roman Legion then stationed there. There, also, was held the great slave market where many a maid and lad were sold in the Roman days to be conveyed to Rome. In mediaeval days, the place became the scene of struggles between Britons, Saxons and Danes. There is a tradition that the famous King Arthur, after defeating ninety thousand Saxons on Baden hills, took up his residence in York and with the chivalrous knights and fair ladies of his Court celebrated the first Christmas festival ever held in England. In these days York was surrounded by deep forests and no one dared leave the city without an armed guard on account of the bandits and robbers who infested the outlying regions. In i486, Henry VII visited York and the citizens, to quote the records on this occasion, "drank the city dry." To Americans, York will have another special interest, for in the Fulford Cemetery lie many of our brave boys, including some from our York, who died in the EngUsh city during the Great War. York Minster is one of the most majestic cathedrals in the world and is enriched by innumerable historic associations. After having passed through the changes and additions of eight and a half centuries and the many sanguinary and thrilling scenes enacted at its feet, it was reconsecrated in 1472. The magnificent windows of medieval glass, the stone carvings and tracery, and the famous bell called "Big Tom," which tolls forth the hours to the passing generations, are features of this Cathedral. From a photograph THE SHAMBLES, Kindness Ian Forbes-kohertson, Esq. YORK, ENGLAND This street is so narrow that neighbors on opposite sides can shake hands from the upper floors. Photographed by Joseph Duncan and M. A. C. Le:vis, York, England CITY WALLS, YORK, ENGLAND, part of the ancient defences of the city, upon which one can walk for miles Kindness Ian Forbes-Robertson, Esq. From " The Beginnings of Colonial Maine," by Henry S. Burrage, D.D., Historian of ST. BUDEAUX CHURCH, NEAR TLYMOUTH, ENGLAND, IN WHICH IS THE MEMORIAL TO SIR FERDINANDO GORGES Sir Ferdinando Gorges took a great interest in the early colonization of New England and particularly of the territory now included in Maine. He was interested in the voyages of Cantain Waymouth and the Popham colonists to Bath; he was given the title of "Governor of New England," received a royal charter and changed the name of the'territory near the present York, Maine, from Agamenticus to Gorgeana. The name York was given later, in 1652. YORK, MAINE 223 In York, the State of Maine possesses the first chartered city of America, and Sir Ferdinando Gorges, its founder, has been called "the Father of American Coloni- zation." Of his thus honouring the Httle hamlet of Agamenticus at the base of the mountain bearing this same Indian name, Bancroft says, "She became a chartered borough, and Sir Ferdinando, like another Romulus, resolved to perpetuate his name, and under the name of 'Gorgeana' the land around York became as good a city as seals and parchment, a Mayor and Aldermen, a Chancery Court, Courtleet, Sargeants and white rods can make of a town of 300 inhabitants." Sir Ferdinando opened his grand and imposing Charter, creating Gorgeana a city of twenty-one square miles, by saying, "Whereas his Majesty, King of England, hath created me Absolute Lord of ye Province of Mayne," — then he proceeds to confer on his be- loved city, which he idealized with promise of future glory, a chartered form of government, nobly planned, which covered many feet of parchment. An anony- mous poet refers to the founding of this First City in America in the following lines : — "For hither came a knightly train From o'er the sea with gorgeous court; The mayors gowned in robes of state, Held brilliant tourney on the plain. And massive ships within the port Discharged their load of richest freight. Then when at night the sun went down Behind the western hill and tree, The bowls were filled, — this toast they crown, 'Long live the City by the Sea!'" This city by the sea, the favored namesake of Gorges and later of old York, fell heir to the tragic fortunes of both its founder and the elder city, although Thomas Gorges, coming here as Deputy Governor for his uncle Sir Ferdinando, strove most faithfully to carry out the constructive plans of his relative. The two Gorges made most of their plans from Bristol, England, although the memorial to Thomas Gorges is in Heavitree Church, near Exeter, and the one to Sir Ferdinando Gorges is in St. Budeaux Church, near Plymouth. With the fall of King Charles, involving the elder Gorges, a staunch royalist, in financial ruin and imprisonment,. the struggling city of Gorgeana was left without head or support from the adverse Cromwelhan rule. Its inhabitants found their lands and possessions tossed back and forth for the next forty years, while they defended themselves, unaided, from their garrison houses against the treacherous Indians. One of these garrison houses, built in 1645, is still standing in perfect condition just above the old swinging bridge on the bank of York River. In 1652, Massachusetts having succeeded for the time being in her claim upon Maine territory, Gorgeana was reorganized into the town of York, as the shire town of Yorkshire County. In 1623, Christopher Levett, who was born in York, 2 24 YORK, MAINE #( From " The Beginnings of Colonial Maine" by Henry S. Burrage, D.D., Historian of Maine CHURCH AT LONG ASHTON, ENGLAND, IN WHICH SIR FERDINANDO GORGES WAS BURIED England, in 1576, had bestowed this same name of York on the territory then called by the curious name of "Quack," situated on the western shores of Casco Bay, off Portland. Levett explored the Maine coast, returning in the following year. He was in Salem when John Endicott came there and welcomed him to these shores. He sold his interests in Maine and died on the homeward voyage. His father, Percival Levett, was City Chamberlain of York, England, in 1584 and sheriff in 1597-98. The county jail in York, built in 1653, is still standing and is now put to beneficent use by the York Historical Society, which maintains it as a museum of local antiquities. York's crowning tragedy, however, befell in January, 1692, when a force of Indians gathered under the darkness of a winter's night on the snowy slope of Mt. Agamenticus, overlooking the sleeping town, and in the grey of the morning pounced upon the unwarned settlement, ruthlessly tomahawking family after family until over half the inhabitants were thus cruelly massacred. The feeble remnant still refused to desert the beloved locality, and struggled on, later becoming a prosperous fishing and farming community. Rev. Shubael Dummer, who organized the first Congregational church in York in 1662, was a graduate of Harvard College in 1656. As late as the year 1769 we find a curious regulation among the church records that "singing was permitted to YORK, MAINE 225 the lower floor, if persons occupying the designated pews fit them up at their own expense." Of recent years, York, ]Maine, has become one of the most fashionable and attractive summer resorts of our entire New England coast. CROSSED SWORDS OF COLONEL WILLIAM PRESCOTT AND CAPTAIN JOHN LINZEE mounted on a tablet in the library of the Massachusetts Historical Society. Colonel Prescott was a leader of the .American troops at Bunker Hill while Captain Linzee commanded the British sloop-of-war "Falcon" which acted against the Americans during this famous battle. By a romantic coincidence these swords came into the possession of the Massachusetts Historical Society through the will of William Hickling Prescott, the celebrated historian, grandson of Colonel Prescott, who married Susan Amory, a grand- daughter of Captain Linzee. The international fame of these weapons has been recorded by Thackeray in "The Virginians." The occasion of the presentation of the swords to the Historical Society brought forth from Rev. Nathaniel Langdon Frothingham, D.D., a poem entitled "The Crossed Swords" which for many years appeared in American school books. To the people of Massachusetts a further interest attaches to the history of these swords as a granddaughter of William Hickling Prescott became the wife of Roger Wolcott, late Governor of this Commonwealth. In concluding this account of the ties which exist between New England and Old England, Ireland and Scotland, it is, perhaps, fitting to recall, in view of recent world events, the vision of Alfred Tennyson who, in 1852, expressed what he hoped America's part would be if England were ever called upon to fight a "tyrant's" power. Little did he then know how his hope was to be fulfilled after a lapse of sixty-five years. This was the noble feeling to which he then gave utterance: — "Gigantic daughter of the West, We drink to thee across the flood, W^e know thee most, we love thee best, For art thou not of English blood? Should War's mad blast again be blown, Permit not thou the tyrant's power To fight thv mother here alone. But let thy broadsides roar with ours. Hands all around! God the tyrant's cause confound; To our great kinsmen in the West And the great cause of freedom, round and round." THE END ERRATA IN PART I Page t8, Page 42, Page 66, Page 93, Page 94, Page 95' Page 108, Page 145, Page 194, Page 200, ine I. For "first" read "second." ast line. For "Whittier" read "Emerson." ine 19. Omit "by Punch." ine 31. For "grandfather" read "father." ine I. For "right" read "left." ine 3. " Francis Rotch " not " Francis Russell " launched the first vessel in Dartmouth. ine 4. For " then " read " later." ine I. Omit "Jr." after "John Winthrop." ine 32. For "Bourne" read "Sandwich" Public Library. ine I. Read "The Earl of Sandwich, who died in 1792, derived his title from Sandwich, England; . . . ." 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