MWHMimi wmm i^^^4>^4 li M i Wi i u iiitimmimmm>iimi>m) » > i t mma»tm mmmm -Z) ^- r^ THE PAMPAS AND ANDES. THOUSAND MILES' WALK ACROSS SOUTH AMERICA. BY NATHANIEL H. BISHOP. WITH AN INTRODUCTION EDWARD A. SAMUELS, Esq., ATJTHOB OF " OKNITHOLOGY A>T) OOLOGY OF NEW ENGLAND," ETC., ETC. THIRD EDITION, ILLUSTRATED. BOSTON: LEE AND SHEPAKD, PUBLISHER! NEW YORK: LEE, SHEPAKD AND DILLINGHAM. Entered, according to Act of Congress, In the year 1868, by LEE AND SUEPAKD, In the Clerk's Office of Uie District Court of the District of Massachusette. BTEREOTTPEB AT THB BOSTON 8TEBE0TTPE POUNDBT, No. 19 Spring Lane. Q^XK\ b Ml e^/zS'ty^CH-Z^ TO PROFESSOR SPENCER F. BAIRD, ASSISTANT SEC'Y OF THE SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION, S:^is SSork is gtbuatcb, AS A TOKEN OF SINCERE REGARD, BY HIS FRIEND, THE AUTHOR, PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION WiTEN, a few weeks since, I saw my little book of South American travels issued from the press, I sup- posed that my connection with it had ended. My publishers now ask for a preface to a second edition. I take this occasion to express my thanks for the very kind manner in which my boyish descriptions of a boy's travels have been received by the public and the press. I can only wish that ray book had been more worthy of the liberal patronage and the generous praise which have been bestowed upon it. If I had followed my own inclinations, I should have given my narrative a thorough revision, and thus have corrected some of the crudeness of my first literary effort. To this revision, however, my publishers ob- jected, on the ground that it would raise the suspicion of genuineness as to these being the travelling obser- (1) 2 PREFACE. vations of a lad seventeen years of age, and iinpaii also the freshness of the narrative. My book haa therefore been given to the public with but slight alterations from the original draft. I should have been glad to have made the story of my travels more fruitful in scientific results. But I had no instruments for making accurate observations, and had not the opportunity to preserve and transport many objects of natural history for comparison and verification. Such observations as I have made on topics relating to natural history, during my wander ing on the inhospitable Pampas of South America, if they are supei-ficial, I have sought to make them at least truthful. NATHA2fIEL } (. BiSHOP. Oxrcoccua Plantation, Mannahawkjn, N. J. INTEODUCTION. Ijt placing this little volume before the public, a few words, regarding the manner in which the in- cidents and material composing it were acquired, may be of interest to the reader. The young gentleman who made the pedestrian trip, of which this forms the narrative, was a native of Massachusetts. I had missed him from his accus- tomed place for some time, but was ignorant of his contemplated journey, or even that he had gone away, until my attention was called to the following paragraph in the columns of the Boston Daily Ad- vertiser of January 12, 1856, from its Chilian corre- Bpondent : — " Valparaiso, November 27, 1855. " There arrived here, a few days since, a young man belong- ing to Medford, Mass., who has walked across the Pampas and Cordilleras, more than a thousand miles, unable to speak the language, and with an astonishingly small amount of money. " So much for a Yankee." My friend was but seventeen years of age when ho entered upon his difficult undertaking ; but by dint of (3) 4 XNTRODUCTION-. peraeverance, backed by an enthusiastic love for nature, he accomplished a task that would have seemed insur- mountable to many older and more experienced than himselC To use the language of Dr. Brewer, the able author of the Oology of North America, he was " a young and enthusiastic naturalist, whose zeal in the study of Natural History prompted him, alone, un- aided, and at the risk of his life, to explore the arid plains of South America, while yet a mere lad in years and stature, though his observations there exhibit the close and careful study of maturer years." The young traveller started on his journey of up- wards of twelve thousand miles, by sea and land, with a cash capital of forty-five dollars, and returned home with fifty ; thus proving to those who wish to see the world that energy, industry, and economy are as potent U assist them in their efibrts as unlimited wealth. On his return, I requested him to furnish me with an account of his journey ; this he has been unable to do, from press of business, until recently, when ho gave me a copy of his journal, which, in a slightly revised form, is now published. Edwakd a. Samuels. CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. PASSAGE OF THE BIVEB FLATA. the Bark M.— First Glimpses of Life in the Forecastle.— An old Salt, and forecastle Etiquette. — A self-constituted Guardian. — An- other old Salt, and how he spliced the Main-brace. — Farewell to Boston. — The Passage. — The tropical Seas. — The Rocks of St. Paul's, and their Natural History. — First Visit of the Pampero. — The " Doctor's " poetical Effusions • 11 CHAPTER II. IN THE BIVEB PLATA. We enter the Biver Plata. — Land.— Montevideo.— Another Pam- pero. — Effects of the Hurricane. — Its Season. — We arrive at the outer Boads at Buenos Ajrea .*.•<•..• M CHAPTER III. BUENOS ATBES — THE PROVINCE AND CITT. LettersfVomHome, — A Visit to the City. — Its Population. — This tie Forests. — Agricultural Resources. — Public Edifices of Buenos Ayres. — Improvements. — Soil and Water.- -Slavery and its His- ; CONTENTS. tory. — Don D. F. Sarmiento. — Paper Currency. — (}enenl Bo- ioa and his cruel Tjranny *.*..... V CHAPTER IV. VISIT TO THE TIGRE AND BANDA OHIENTAL. A. new Acquaintance. — Prcparationg for a Journey. — The Departure. — The Cochcro and his Vehicle. — Residence of the late President. — Agriculture. — Fuel. — San Fernando. — Mr. Hopkins and United States and Paraguay Navigation Company. — Yerba. — We leave the Tigre. — Arrival at the Banda Oriental. — Wild Dogs. — Estancla. — Departure for the Las Vacas River. — A Revelation. — An Ignis Fatuus. — Estancia House, and Cattle Farm. — The Proprietor at Home. — Inliospitable Reception.- The Peons. — Insulting Treat- ment. — An Irishman and his Opinions. — We reach the River.— Gold Prospects. — We return to the Tlgre. — My Companion 'a Fate CHAPTER V ASCENDING THE PLATA AND PABANI. Bosario.— Departure from the Tigre.— A Dialogue.— 1 visit the M.. — The Irish B-irrister's Son. — I return to the City. — Leave Bue- nos Ayres. — Banks of the River. — El Rosario. — Schools, &c. — Enterprise of the People. — Diligences. — The Press.- Vigilantes. — Parand.— Its Position. — Bank. — Railroad and its Prospects. ■ . . M CHAPTER VI. A VISIT TO THE PAMPA CODNTBTf, h new Acquaintance. — An Invitation. — We set out upon the Plains.— Incidents of the Journey. — A Pampa Lord. — We visit bis Mansion. — The House and its Inmates. — Cattle. — Niata Breed. — Ostriches, Rifling a wild Colt. — Trial of Horses. — The Boliadores.- Estancia Life. — The Gauchos. — Duties on the Cattle Farm. — Feast Days and Aguardiente. — Customs of the Gauchos. — Training Colts. — The Herdsman's Dress 71 CONTENTS. 7 CHAPTER VII. LIFE ON THE PAMPAS. Don JoB^ and my new Guardian. — Preparations for Departure.— Pampa Carta. — Metliod of driving Oxen. — Fresh Meat. —A Sauta. — Farewell to Rosario. — The Caravan. — A Halt. — Novel Mode of Cooking. — First Lesson in Gaucho Etiquette. — A Name. — fiabits of the Bizcacha. — Burrowing Owls, — First Night in the Pampas. . 101 CHAPTER VIII. LIFE ON THE PAMPAS — CONTINUED. A new Drees. — Eiding a Kam. — Deer.— Parrots.— Mirages.— A Troop of Carts. — A Pantana. — Grass on fire. — Another Cara- van. — Armadillos. — Guardia de la Esquina. — A sad Story. — Ir- reverence of the Peons. — Cabeza del Tigre. — Indian Attack. — Saladillo.— I visit a Rancho. — Punta del Sauce. — Its Inhabi- tants. —A geographical Dispute. — La Reduccion. — Paso Durazno. — Cerro Moro in the distance. — Indian female Spies. ....... 117 CHAPTER IX. FBOM BIO QUARTO TO CEERO MOKO. lHo Quarto. — Indian Incursions. — A novel Method of charging a Cannon.— Scarcity of Bread. —A Bath. — The Peons' Objection to Bathing. — Ox-brain Soup. — A rcuic Troop. — The 31 adrina. — Ar- madillos. — Their Habits. — A Caravan from Mendoza. — Bread and Ovens. — Preparations for a hungry Time. — A Prostration. .... 134 CHAPTER X. FBOU EIO QUARTO TO CERRO MORO — CONTINUED. Prospects and ExpericnccB. — The Peons' dislike for the " Gringo."— Fear of Dr. Carmcl. — Little Juan. — Suspicious Movements. — Sympathy of the China Women. — Intrigue. — The Breakfast.— Don Manuel lacks Etiquette. — Sickness. — A Inream. Ul lU 8 CONTENTS. CHAPTER XI. BAW LUIS AND THE SALINE DESERT. Don Mannel the Capataz. — His Services as Baqueano. — A Mendosa Troop of Carta. — Approach to the " Interior Town." — Appearance of San Luis de la I'unta. — The Governor. — Indian Troubles. — A Captive. — Indi-rn Attack. — Treatment of Foreigners. — On thcTra- vesia. — Watering: Places. — Cacti. — Cochineal. — Condiments. — Saline Mineral. — Its Properties and Analysis by Dr. A. A. Hayes. — Conjectures as to its Origin .*.•••••••• CHAPTER XII. ON THE TEAVESIA. We cross the Desaguadero. — Artificial Canals. — La Paz. — Resnlts of Irrigation. — View of the Andes. — An Invitation to Dinner. — Gor- mandizing of the Peons.- Santa Kosa. — Goats. — Alto Verde.— Camp on the Koad. — A Bath. — Goitre. — Preparations for entering Mendoza. — The little China. — Arrogance of the Santiaguefios. — Plants of the Travesia. — Dwellings. — A Dialogue. — We enter the Town. — An English Doctor. — Cool Treatment. — Circo Olympico. — A Visit to Plaza Nucva U3 CHAPTER XIII. MENDOZA. A Disappointment. — Mendoza. — The Alameda. — The Governor. — Houses, Churches, &c. — Doings of the Priests. — The Confession- als, — Padre A. — Madcap young Ladies. — Musical Bells. — Theatre. — Inhabitants. — The Goitre. — San Vicente.— School Library. — Newspaper and Press of Vansiee. — Celebration of tlie 25th of May. — Soldiers. — Circus Performers.— Arrival of Indians from the South. — Veracity of the Cacique. — The Correo and his Men. — Casuchas. — Snow Travel. — A new Character Introduced. — Destruction of the City. — Departure for San Juar, — The con- ■uming Lake. — IlBbes. — Arrival at San Juan IM CONTENTS. 1 CHAPTER XIV. A WINTER IN SAN JUAN. At San Juan. — Wet and dry Winters. — Don Guillermo Buenaparte. Visit to Causete. — I become a Miller. — Katural History.— The Mill. — New Characters. — The Scenery. — A curious Lot. — Inhabitants of San Juan. — The Town. — Trade and ProductionB. — Agricultural Tools. — Irrigation. — Don Job6 the Penitent. ... 211 CHAPTER XV. A WINTEE IN SAN JUAN— CONTINUED. A. Mine. — A new Acquaintance. — An Account of the ProwesB of ft Diablo. — His Dress. — Horse's Trappings. — The Kastreador. — HiB Skill. — A Translation from Sarmiento 229 CHAPTER XVI. VIENTE DE ZONDA. Regarding the Zonda Wind. — Miers's Opinion. — ConrseB of the Zondas. — A Wind of long Duration, — South Wind. — Speculations upon the Starting-point of the Zondas 2** CHAPTER XVII. ADVENTURES OF DON GUILLEEMO BUENAPAETK, Don GuilJcrmo relates his Adventures. — Leaves New Bedford. — De- Berts his Ship for another. — Rock of Dunda. — Terrapin Island.— Sufferings and Escape from the Pl.ice. — Marquesas Islands.— Leaves the Vessel. — Life among the Cannibals. — Cruel Fate of his Companions. -- Settles down to Marquesan Life. — A Ship. — Es- cape of Don Guillermo. — Other Adventures. — Leaves Chili. — Ad- ditional Remarks, ••, ^*^ 10 CONTENTS. CHAPTER XVIII. CROSSING THE ANDES. Preparations for leaving' San Juan. — I leave the Mill. — The P4Mft House — Tlie Jlinistcr and liis friendly Offer.— Tlie Flecha.— El Da- raziio. — The Hut and its Occupants. — Tlie lUnchuca. — A blood- less IJattlo. — E! Sequion. — Cliinas. — A Troop of Blulse, and a Nigflit with tlie Capataz. — Up tlie Valley. — A Hut and a pretty Senorita. — An elevated Plain. — Camp. — Sunrise in the Andes. — The Road to Uspallata. — Don Fernando. — An Invitation. — Farewell to Uspallata. — Indian Structures. — A sad Tale. — Cueate de la Catedral. — La Punta de las Vacas .....•*.. 277 CHAPTER XIX. CROSSING THE ANDES — CONTINUED. Descent of the Andes. — Baqueano Mule. — Waitings for the Snow to crust over. — Strange Scenery Below the Snow. — Another Snow- Hut. — A Drift. — Travellers from Chili. — Preparations for ascend- ing the Cordillera. — Remedy for the Puna. — A hard Road. — On the Cumbre 2M CHAPTER XX. FROM THE ANDES TO THE PACIFIC. rtssage down the Valley. — Eyes of Water. — The Chilians and their Characteristics. — San Eosa. — A Chilian Welcome. — A Feast. — The River Aconcagua.— Quil lota.— At Valparaiso. — Departure for Home. ...901 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. CHAPTER I. PASSAGE TO THE RIVEE PLATA. ONE cold November morning, in compliance with previous orders, I repoi'ted myself ready for duty at the shipping office of Messrs. S. and K., Commercial Street, Boston, and having received, as is customary, one month's wages in advance, proceeded with my baggage to Battery Wharf, at the foot of which lay the bark M., destined to be my future home for many weeks. As but one of the crew had already gone on board, I had ample leisure for examining the vessel, on board of which I was to receive my first lessons in jiractical seamanship, and to endure privations hitherto happily unknown to me. The M. was not prepossess- ing in appearance, and I confess that her model did not give a favorable idea of her sailing qualities : vessels, like horses, have peculiar external points by which their virtues may be judged, and their speed determined. As I gazed upon her long, straight sides, square bows, and box-like hull, it seemed to me that her builders must have mistaken her ends; for, certes, had her spars been reversed, she wouli have mada (in 12 A THOUSAND MILES WALK. better progress by sailing stern foremost. Some know- ing ones, who have since examined this specimen of marine architecture of twenty years ago, liave sustainctl my suspicion that the M. belonged to that enduring fleet of cruisers, now scattered over the great deep, which were originally built in the State of Maine, of which report is made that " these vessels are built by the mile, and sawed off according to the length ordered by the buyer." The mate, who was occupied in receiving live stock, — i, e., two young pigs, — ordered me to stow my things " for'ard ; " an order somewhat difficult to comply with, as the forecastle was well filled with firewood, ropes, blocks, swabs, and the various other articles used on shipboard. I crawled down the dark passage, and was feeling about to discover the dimensions of a sailor's home, doubting, meanwhile, whether, in reality, this narrow hole could be the abode intended for human beings, when suddenly a gruff voice called down to me, " Come, youngster, bear a hand I Make yourself live- ly I "VYe must clean out this shop before the crew come down ; stir yourself, and pass me up the pieces." Obeying these peremptory commands, I applied my- self to work, and in an hour's time my companicn declared the place "ship-shape, and fit for sailors." I would remark, en passant, that this declaration was made in the face of the fact that mould and dust cov- ered the timbers and boards, and cockroaches filled the many crevices. " But," said my companion, with ^ philosophical air, "if the place were carpeted, and Ughted with a fine lamp, the fellows would be the PASSAGE TO THE EIVEU PLATA. 13 •nore dissatisfied; the better treated they are, the worse they growl." At the time I iuwardly k called tc:x, although, oi) trial, I was sadly puzzled to know how it could merit such an appellation. Of llic throe weeks which followed this first expe- nence of nautical life and its miseries, I can say but liltic, as I labored during this period under the exhaust- ing ctVccts of seasickness, which reduced me to such a degree of weakness that I once fainted on the flying jib-boom, from which position of peril I was rescued and brought in by my friend Manuel. But this dis- tressing malady wore away, and at last became alto- gether a memory of the past. Despite hard fare and labor, I not only recovered my lost flesh, but grew rugged and hearty, and, moreover, became tolerably familiar with the duties of a life at sea. I have alluded to our cook, and to his ineffable con- ceit, mock sentimentality, and Hibernian fertility of invention. It was his opinion that the "low-lived fellows" on board ought to feel highly honored by the presence it their midst of at least one gentleman — a title which he continually arrogated to himself. I am sorry to say, that as a cook he was not "a success." He cared very little about the quality of the food he served to us ; and its preparation was usually a subordinate consid- eration, with him, to the indulgence of his master pas- sion, — the perusal of highly-colored novels, — to which he devoted every possible moment. In the hope of improving my wretched diet, I ap. plied myself to the study of this man's character, and, having soon discovered his assailable point, sup})lied bim with some works of fiction more entrancing than PASSAGE TO THE KITER PLATA. 19 »ny he had hitherto possessed, I bought them just before our leaving home, thinking that peihaps some snch an opportunity might offer for making a friend- ship with some of my messmates. His delight at re- ceiving them was extreme ; and I received in exchange for my favors many a dish that added a zest to my food, which it had hitherto altogether lacked. Whenever I wished to be entertained with some mar- vellous account of "life in the highest circles of Great Britain," I had only to request from the sympathetic cook a passage or two from his eventful life. It was his constant lament that he had never kept a dialogue (diary) of his tri.vels, which, according to his account, must have surpassed those of most mortals in adven- ture and interesting incidents. Of our crew, his countryman, the " boy Jim," was hia favorite. This Jim was the red-shirted sailor who had promised to instruct me in all the "moves" of an ex- perienced salt, before we had left the wharf at Boston. A very few days of our voyage, however, served to prove, that he not only had no claim to the title of "old salt," but also that he had never learned to "steer a trick at the wheel." The first order that he received from one of the mates was, " Boy Jim, lay aloft there, and slush down the foretop-gallant and royal masts!" Seizing a tar bucket, and pointing aloft, he exclaimed, "Shure, sir, and which of them sticks is it that ye mane?" thus laying bare his ignorance of all nautical matters, and bringing on himself the ridicule of the whole ship's crew. As with head winds we slowly drew near the vari- ables, or horse latitudes, rainy weather, accompanied iO A THOUSAND MILES WALK. h)' squalls of wiiul, commenced, and for tv\'cnty-on« d;»\s and nights we were wet to the skin : clothes, bed- ding, all were saturated from the effects of a leaky deck ; and it was a common occurrence to find, on awakening from slumber, a respectable stream of water descending into the close and crowded forecastle. When on deck our oil clothes did not protect us, for fioin our having worked in them constantly, the oil coating had worn off: so, at the end of a watch, we wrung out our under garments, and turned into our narrow bunks, where we quickly fell asleep, and forgot our miseries and troubles, until we were aroused, to them by the gruff voice of some sailor of the other watch, shouting down the companion-way, "Ay — you — Lar-bowlines — ahoy — there; eight — bells! Lay up here, bullies, and get your duff." Or, perhaps, "Do those fellows down there ever intend to relieve the watch ! " exclaimed in no pleasant tones by the captain of the other watch. The rainy season was succeeded by as delightful weather as we could have desired. A fair wind sprang np a few days before crossing the line, and with strain- ing canvas we sped on towards Buenos Ayres. The days passed pleasantly, and our duties became light and agreeable. Enjoyable as were these tranquil days, the nights were still lovelier in those latitudes. The moon seemed to shine with an unwontedly pure and spiritual light, and with a brightness known only to the clear atmosphere of the tropics. As we glided along, night after night, under a firma- ment studded with countless lights, and over a broad expanse rufiied with short, dark waves curling crisply PASSAGE TO THE RIVER PLATA. 21 {lito foam, I could hardly conceive a scene of more quiet beauty. Standing upon the foiecastle deck, a glorious vision frequently met our gaze: a phospho- resG:nt light gleamed beneath the bows, and streamed along the sides and in the vessel's wake, looking like a train of liquid gems to the imaginative observer. If we looked aloft to the white canvas of our wide-spread sails, we seemed borne along by some gigantic bird, of which the sails were the powerful wings, to the distant horizon, in which were the Southern Cross and other larger constellations, burning, like beacon lamps, lead- ing us on to our destined jjort. During these days and nights our attention was nc4 unfrequently attracted to the dwellers in the deep, which w^ere constantly sporting around us. Schools of black-fish and porpoises continually crossed our track ; And large numbers of flying-fish often shot across our bows, sometimes leaving at our mercy a few stragglers upon the decks. Upon such nights as I have described, when acting as lookout by the windlass bits, old Manuel frequently came to ray side, and conversed upon the various topics connected with his past life, which had been an event- ful one. He was born in Bordeaux. His mother died when he was an infiint, leaving him to the care of his father, who owned and commanded a small vessel en- gaged in the coasting trade. While very young, Manuel preferred playing about the streets of his native city, and hiding, with other boys, among the vines which covered his father's dwell- ing, to following any plan of education proposed by his father. Under the direction of an uncle, however. 22 A TIIOUSAXD MILES WALK. Iio attoiidcil Sfliool wIk'm nine years old, and Icarncil to read and write during the two succeeding years. So rapid was his progress, that the uncle, who was wealthy, ofTered to defray his expenses if ho would fit liimsclf for the university ; but IManuel preferred following the fortunes of his father for a season, and accordingly sailed with him along the coasts of France and Spain. But the voyage was not destined to be a pleasant one. The boy was continually olFending his father, who was a cold and unlovable man ; and one after- noon, while performing cei'tain antics upon the main- topsail-yard-arm, the old gentleman called him down, and rewarded his exertions with a lusty application of the end of the main sheet, which rope's-ending was not to Manuel's taste. He availed himself of the first opportanity, deserted the vessel, and joined a fine ship sailing to Havana. Before reaching Cuba he had be- come acquainted with the ropes, and not wishing to return to liis parent until time had soothed his outraged feelings, he left the ship, and became a destitute wan- derer in a foreign land. He was at that time twelve years of age. Being led into bad company, he joined a slaver, bound for the west coast of Africa. The ga- lota in which he sailed reached the Rio Congo, and received on board nine hundred negroes, nearly all of whom were landed safely in Cuba. His wages, as boy, amounted to fifty dollars per month ; but, though en- gaged in so profitable an undertaking, his sense of right caused him to leave his unprincipled associates, and to seek employment elsewhere. Since that time he had served beneath the flag of nearly every mari- time nation, and had also fought in the China wars PASSAGE TO THE RIVER PI ATA. -& For thirteen years he had sailed from Boston and Np^v York, choosing the American republic as his adopted country, for which he was willing, as he dechired, to shed his best blood, should necessity require. While conversing with Manuel, one morning before sunrise, I was surprised by his suddenly jumping to hia feet and scanning the horizon. At length he exclaimed, « There is a sight you may never see again. I have crossed the line many times in this longitude, but never beheld that before to-day ! " At this moment the mate, who had been keeping a long lookout, disappeared be- low, returning in a moment with the captain. Looking in the direction pointed out by the old sailor, I dis- cerned far away to the south-south-east, broken water; and, as the daylight advanced, we were soon able to disiinguish two detached and rugged rocks, rising out of the sea, together with many smaller peaks rising out of the water around them. One of these bore a strik- ing resemblance to a sugar-loaf. This group was the St. Paul's Rocks. When first seen they appeared dark and drear ; but, as our vessel approached them, we discovered that the excrements of myriads of sea- fowl, with which they were covered, had made them of a glistening white, presenting a strange appearance, not wholly devoid of the picturesque. Here, at no less a distance than five hundred and forty miles from the continent of South America, these peaks, the sununita of mountains whose bases are planted in unfathomed depths, arise. The rocks lie in longitude twenty-nine degi-ees fif teen minutes west, and are only fifty-eight miles north of the equator. The highest peak rises but fifty feet 24 A THOUSAND MILEs' WALK. above the sea, and is not more tliim three quarters of » mile in circumference. These isohited rocks liavc been visited by a few per. Bons only. Darwin, the naturalist, made a thorough investigation into their natural liistory. Among birds, the booby gannet and noddy tern were found ; both species being very tame, depositing their eggs and rearing thcu* young in great numbers. Darwin, in hia account of the tenants of these rocky islets, observes, "It was amusing to watch how quickly a large and active crab (Grapsua), which inhabits the crevices of the rocks, stole the fish from the side of the nest, aa soon as we had disturbed tlie parent birds. Sir W. Syinonds, one of the few persons who have landed here, informs me that he saw these crabs dragging even the young birds out of the nests, and devouring them. Not a single plant, nor even lichen, grows on this islet; yet it is inhabited by several insects and spiders. The following list completes, 1 believe, the terrestrial fauna: A fly (0/fersia), living on thf> booby, and a tick, which must have come here as a parasite on the birds; a small brown moth, belonging 10 a genus that feeds on feathers; a beetle (Quedrus), and a wood-louse from beneath the dung; and, lastly, numerous spiders, which, I suppose, prey on thcfse small attendants and scavengers of the water-fowl." I afterwards met, among the many roving characters with whom the traveller becomes acquainted, a person, who, in his younger days, had been engaged not only in privateering, but also in the lucrative, though inhu- man, slave traffic. He knew of many instances wheo slavers and freebooters had been obliged to visit St PASSAGE TO THE RIVER PLATA. 2b Paul's from necessity, not only for the purpose of seeur' ing tlie rain-water that is caught in the cavities and depressions in the rock, but also to procure a supply cf the fish which piny about the islets in large schools, or, n ore properly, perhaps, shoals, or schules. Although our vessel was built before the age of clippers, and consequently made slow progress through the water, St. Paul's was far astern by ten o'clock. A fiesh breeze sprang up, and, as it continued fair, wo were wafted along smoothly day after day towards our destined port. At length the sudden changes of the atmosphere, and careful consultations of the officers, and admoni- tions "to keep a bright lookout ahead," warned the forecastle hands that we were nearing the Rio Plata, the great River of Silver., whose broad mouth we were soon to enter, there to gaze upon the shores of another continent. The nights seemed cooler, and the beautiful appear- ance of the heavens, as the sun, with a broader disk, sank beneath the western horizon, particularly attracted our attention. As it slowly disappeared, clouds of many varied hues gathered above it like heavy drapery, as if to conceal its flight; while others, taking the fonu of long ranges of mountains, with here and there a tall peak towering up into the clearer firmament, presented a panorama of exquisite, beauty and grandeur. But all evenings were not of this description. Sometimeg the licaA'cns darkened, and for two or three hours not a breath of air moved the murky atmosphere. Loiitj, dark swells came rolling towards us from the south* east, sure indicators of the distant pampero^ the hurri 26 A THOUSAND MTLEs' WALK. onne of La Plata. When these swells were visible, the crow at once became active : every light sail waa Biiugly furled, aiul the tojisails double reefed, for our liaptain was a piiident man, who had sailed long enough iu these latitudes to know the fearful devastation that is often occasioned by the pampero. Before our voy- age terminated we liad an opj^ortunity to appreciate this trait in his seamanship. One afternoon, when within four or five days' sail of the mouth of the Plata, the sky became overcast with murky clouds, while the distant thunder and lightning in the south-west warned us of the proximity of the hurricane. "All hands" \yere calleci, and we hurried to our stations ; but before everything could be made snug aloft, a fierce shower of hail descended, j^elting us mercilessly ; and glad enough we were to get below, at four beHs, to supper. The wind increased, and blevj very hard for an hour or more, when it became calmer; but still the heavy sea came rolling towards us, mak- ing our stout bark toss and pitch about as if old Neptune were irritated at her sluggish ways. We congratulated ourselves at our easy escape from the pampei'O, but we should have remembered the old saying, "Never shout until you are out of the wood." As we were below, discussing various subjects, we were joined by the cook, who descended the ladder, requesting the loan of a novel, declaring that he was dying by inches of the "onwy." "Get out of this, you and your trash !" shouted an old tar: "this is no place for distinguished characters." But the "doctor" did not appear to be disconcerted PASSAGE TO THE RIVER PLATA. 27 m the least at i'ais rude salutation and reference to hia pretensions. " Ah, boys ! " he exclaimed, with a touch of senti- mentality, "how can ye be so boistherous ? Here we are, every hour dhrawing nearer and nearer to that mighty river which runs past Buenos Aynis ; and doca not the thought of it inspire ye with romantic feelings? As for meeself, I can scarce slape at night for the ec- Ktalic thoughts that crowd me brain. Ye may all laugh," he continued, as some of the sailors interrupted him with a boisterous laugh, "but it does not alter the case in the laste, for it is thrue. To-night, when I was standing in the galley, the thought came to me, that perhaps the boy here," pointing to myself^ "would like a few stanzas of poetry for his dialogue (diary), which he is keeping ; so I, in my mind, composed a few lines, which, if he wants, I will recite to Iiim. At this, some of the sailors exclaimed, "Get out of *his, for a dirty sea-cook as you are, and don't attempt to spoil sensible people." I, however, said that I would be pleased to receiv^e ais stanzas, and, preparing my pencil and paper, wrote down the following lines as he recited them, together with the interpolations and remarks of the dei'k, declaring (hat he ''couldn't sleej) alter li(\iring such blasted nonsense, until he had taken a Ball Mink emetic." The doctor Avould have continued his poetry, not- •\> ithstanding the lidicule of the "• low, ignorant fellows," as ho called tiiemj but he was interrupted by tho voica PASSAGE TO THE RIVEE PLATA. 29 of the mate, calling down to the cook to "doctor the binnacle lamp," when the poet hurried up the jom- panion-way, leaving me to turn in, and dream of " Lips that together did meet, Clamors of wars, and terrible drumB," an til the man at the wheel struck eight bslla. SU A THOUSAND MILES WALK. CHAPTER n. IN THE KIVER PLATA. AT length the day for makhig preparations for Hear- ing hind arrived. One fine afternoon tlie order was given to have everything ready for entering the river. All hands were kept on deck, and every one manifested an nnusual readiness to work. The lasliings were cut adrift from the anchors; the chain drawn out of the locker, and overhauled upon the deck ; and tlie other matters attended to, which are not to be neglected on a ship about coming to an anchorage. Towards night, the changing color of the water, which in the deep ocean is of a dark blue, but which had now become of a greenish tinge, told us of the proximity of land. At sunrise of the next morning, the cry of, "Land on the starboard bow ! " awoke me from a sound slumber. ITurrying on deck, I was able to discover a faint streak of red in the distant horizon, which a sailor declared to be " the loom of the land ; " and by eight o'clock the low shores of the Uruguayan republic were distinctly visi- i)le from our deck, and the monotony of our sea life was at an end As it was necessary to take a pilot on board, we were obliged to first make Montevideo, the great seaport of the Banda Oriental, or Uruguayan republic, which LN THE KIVEE PLATA.. 31 country, as most of my readers are doubtless aware was formerly a constant bone of contention between Buenos Ayres and Brazil, but is now independent of both, and according to all accounts promises to become the greatest producer of wool of the South American republics. A light breeze wafted us past the rocky isle of Flores fco Montevideo, where, about dusk, we dropped anchor lit a distance of three miles from the shore. "While aloft, I had time to observe that a conical mountain, with smooth sides, and crowned by an old fort, was connected with the main land by a peninsula, m such a manner that a fine bay was formed, where a 'arge fleet of vessels were lying at anchor. The fort on the mount showed a light, four hundred and seventy- live feet above the level of the sea. The town lies on the opposite side of the bay, to the eastward of the mountain, from which fact it derives its name. By the time the sails were furled, and several addi- t.ional ranges of chain overhauled, night came on, and i,he anchor watch was set, with orders to call the mate if it lightened in the south-west, the region of/)a??i- peros. My watch was from nine to ten: when I was re- Ut!vcd, I went below with a light heart, and "turned in " to my bunk, with the prospect of unbroken rest. It was perhaps an hour later that I was awakened by the confused sounds on deck, caused by the " letting 1^0 " the second anchor, and the loud calling down the jompanion-way for "all hands on deck." Hurrying ibove, we found tliat ^pampero had struck the vessel, wliich was moving through the water at the rate of at t)2 A THOUSAND MILES* WALK. least four miles an hour boforo llio force of the hurri. cane. When the second anchor became f-vst, however, tlie vesscFs course was clieckeil, she swung around, broadside to the wind, and held her ground. Tho force of the wind striking our backs was so great that we were obliged to take shelter beneath the bulwarks to recover our breath. The darkness was intense, save when flashes of light- ning illumine \ every headland along the coast, and threw out in bold relief the mountain and its castle. But duty called us from the protection of the bulwarks to the chain lockers. Vainly, however, did the officers vociferate their commands; not a word could we un- derstand ; but we instinctively laid hold of the chain, and, guided by flashes of lightning, paid out many fathoms. Hardly had we accomplished our object in giving scope to the cable, when a noise like thunder announced that one of the sails, the main spencer, hacT broken adrift, and in an instant it beat and clattered across the quarter-deck. From side to side it tore, cut- ting the rigging to pieces, with the block at its clew. Half an hour's labor was ineftectual in secuiing the Bail, though ends of braces were strongly passed around it; it continually broke loose, tumbling upon the deck all the men who were clinging to it, and we might have labored much longer, had not Manuel crawled aloft, and cut the sail adrift, by coming down the jack-stay, icnife in hand. The spencer had not been securely fastened before fi-om between the harness-casks, the mizzen staysail, which had been carefully furled, seemed endowed with lite, for in an instant it ran up its stay like a bird, and was at once torn to shreds. EFFECTS OF THE nUKRICANB. 39 At this point the prospect was fair for a wreck. The captain brought an axe on deck to prepai-e for the last resort. But sucli a fierce wind fortunately could not last long; its own force must prove exhaustive : it sood came only in gusts, and two hours later it had greatly subsided. The scene now around us challenged our attention; and, until morning, I leaned across the rail, completely engrossed with the many curious phenomena before me The air was filled with electrical flashes, which at times rendered the tall mount plainly visible, and brought out the spars of the fleet in the bay in weird- like prominence against the gloomy background. The fort on the height seemed clothed with flame, , while the short, quick waves around the vessel gleamed with phosphorescent light. The pampero had struck the vessel during the watch succeeding mine, and the man on duty became so frightened that he did not call the mate. Luckily, that officer discovered the true state of afiiTirs in time to pi-event a serious disaster. The dawn of the following morning revealed a sight such as might be expected alter so violent a hurricane. In one part of the harbor were two vessels, whose crew? were hard at work in clearing them from the entangle- ment of their rigging, which was completely wrecked. Close by lay two others, with their topmasts gone, and in the distance were many others in a similar con dition ; wliile from the town came floating logs, boxes, barrels, and other lumber in great quantities, telling of the havoc of the pampero. The eflect of the wind was even felt to a greater ex- tent farther up the river, where some fifteen or twontj 3 84 A THOUSAND miles' "WALK. small vessels were cnpsizcd, ami many of tho crewa drowned. A new and beautiful English bark, that had left her anchorage for Buenos Ayres the night before, we uaw two days afterwards; but she was nothing but a dismantled hulk, with only the sturap of her mizzenmast left : every spar had been blown away, and one of her men killed by a falling mast. Though the iKimpero season generally lasts from March to September, this wind is likely to blow at any time; and a careful captain will always be prepared for it. The state of the mercury in his barometer, to- gether with the appearance of the heavens in the south- west, must be carefully watched. These winds, coming from the cold summits of the Andes, sweep first across an undulating, then a flat country; and, meeting no obstacle to break their force, do great damage to the set- tlements about Buenos Ayres, as well as to the shipping in the River Plata, and are felt many miles out to sea. The River Plata, at its entrance, between Cape St. Mary on the nortn coast, and Cape St. Antonio on the south, is one hundred and seventy miles; and we can see that the jxtmpero, in traversing this broad channel, Las a most unobstructed course. At noon a pilot came aboard, bearing a letter from the owner's agent; and at about eleven o'clock the ful lowing night we hove up both anchors, and, with a fine breeze, sailed up the river. Thirty-six hours later, we drtjpped anchor in the outer roads of Buenos Ayres. seven or eight miles from the city, whose plastered dwellings and lofty cathedral were plainly se(.n fruiij the decks of our vesseL BUENOS AYBES. 35 CHAPTER ni. BUENOS AYEES. — THE PROVINCE AND CITY. FOR a whole month I was obliged to remain by the vessel, awaiting the arrival of the ordera that were to set me free. During this period, to pre- pare the vessel for a long stay, the lighter spars were sent down, the flying jib-boom sent in, sails unbent, &c. The tides in the River Plata are governed by the wind, and have no regularity in rising ; the cur- rent of the river is at the rate of three miles per hour. Vessels drawing above eleven feet of water remain in the outer roads, while smaller craft can approach with- in two or three miles of the city; all of these discharge and receive their cargoes by the assistance of lighters, generally schooner-rigged, and principally manned by foreigners, — chiefly French, Italian, Spanish, and Por- tuguese. At last, about the 20th of February, a Boston vessel entered the river, bringing letters from home, and 1 was gratified by the information from the captain, that, af*cr seeing the American consul, who had received orders to discharge me from duty, I should be at lib- erty to depart on my long pedestrian journey. I went ashore at the earliest opj)ortunity, and at once called upon Colonel Joseph Graham, the American consul, 86 A THOUSAND MILES' WALK. who received mo willi grout kindness, but condemned my intention of crossing, alone, so wild a country, with the people and language of which I had no ac- quaintance; he, however, furnished me with the neces- sary papers of protection, together with letters of intro- duction to various persons in the interior. During my stay in the consul's ofiice Dr. Henry Kennedy, a young North American physician, came in, and although a Btranger to mc, presented me, after a few minutes' con- versation, with a letter of introduction to Mr. G — n, a resident of Rosario. This act of kindness towards a Btranger proved the generous character of Dr. Kenne- dy, and it is with a feeling of gratitude that I recall his name here. I was now my own master, and at once w^Mit about the city in search of information rela- tive to crossing the country. The consul and one or two other parties had given me the names of persons to whom I was to apply for the necessary information to guide mc in my journey. I was surprised, however, to find that the foreign mer- chants knew so little of the interior ; for, after several days' inquiry, the princii)al foct that I learned was, that to cross the pampas on foot it would be necessary to accompany one of the troops of carts that carried merchandise to the other provinces, as otherwise I would find it impossible to obtain food or to follow the right trail. One of my informants was a stout little Iiish gentleman, who quoted a message sent to Sir ^Voodbine Parish, by a gentleman who crossed the country several years before; and as his description is almost true of the Buenos Ayrean, or southern road across the pampas, I will present it here. He said. DESCRIPTION OF THE PAiCPAS. 3/ " The country is more uninteresting than any 1 ever travelled over, in any quarter of the globe. I sliould divide it into five regions ; first, that of thistles, inhab- ited by owls and biscachas; second, that of grass, where you meet with deer, ostriches, and the screaming, horned plover; third, the region of swamps and mo- rasses, only fit for frogs ; fourth, that of stones and ravines, where I expected every moment to be upset ; and, last, that of ashes and thorny shrubs, the refuge of the tarantula and binchuco, or giant-bug. " And now," continued the little Irishman, " I ask leave to put you a question. How many days can you onveniently go without water ? " Two or three, perhaps," I replied. " Well, then, you will never last to cross the plains," was his encouraging answer ; " for, mark you, a merchant of this city crossed last summer, and went witliout water for tioenty-one days. I think you had better return to America, and give up travelling for information." Such were the stories — some true, and many, like tlmt of tlie Irishman, utterly fabulous — that were told me by the different individuals upon whom I called during my short stay in Buenos Ayres, In the course of my inqumes I learned that a ti'ain of wagons would shortly leave Rosario, a small town upon the River E*arana, about two hundred miles north of Buenos Ayres, iov Mendoza, a town situated at the base of the Andes, and I resolved to visit the place in time to catch the caravan. A steamboat plied between the city of Buenos Ayres and Rosario, but as it was not to sail for a fortnight, I had ample time for surveying the adjacent country, and even foi B8 A TnousAi^D miles' waltc making a flying visit across the Plata to tlio Banda OriiMital. The State of Buenos Ayrcs usually monopolizes the attention of visitors to the region wliich is known as the Argentine Conlcderation, on account of her favor- able situation on the seaboard, her possession of tho only mariliine ]^ort in the vast confederacy, and tho ])re(loininating inlluence which these advantages liavo secured to her in ]K>ace as well as in war. The state contains an area of fifty-two thousand square miles, and is, consequently, but little larger than the State of New York. Her population, according to an estimate formed some ten years since, amounted to some three hundred and twenty thousand souls; of whom one hundred and twenty thousand are inhabitants of the city, while the remainder are sparsely distributed over the extensive plains that commence a few miles from the coast, and, running inland, stretch across and far beyond the limits of the state. The population of the city itself is composed of a great variety of types and colors, among which, however, the whites are rapidly predominating ; as every year introduces new blood from Europe and North America, while parties inter- ested are doing their best, in connection with the gov- ernment, to divert a portion of the Irish immigration from the United States towards their own province. The government furnishes immigrants with land free o!' charge, but an extortionate price is not unfrequently paid, in the end, for a farm. The stuily of the mixed races which inhabit, not only this province, but also the entire region between tjbe Parana and the Cordillera, has as yet received bul EESOUECES OF BUEXOS AYEES. 3& little nttention from the student of ethnology. The lines of demarcation, however, between race and race, are clear and distinct ; and the future ethnograph