THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA PRESENTED BY PROF. CHARLES A. KOFOID AND MRS. PRUDENCE W. KOFOID NOTES OF THE VISITS TO INDIA OF THEIE, ROYAL HIGHNESSES THE PRINCE OF WALES AND DUKE OF EDINBURGH 1870 1875-6. BY SIR J. FAYRER, K.C.S.I., LL.D., M.D., F.R.S., Hon. Physician to Her Majesty the Queen, And to their Royal Highnesses the Prince of Wales and the Duke of Edinburgh. PRINTED FOR PRIVATE CIRCULATION ONLY, LONDON: KERRY & ENDEAN, 190, OXFORD STREET. 1879, PREFACE. THESE Notes of my travels in India with the Princes are very brief and fragmentary a mere diary but they will, I hope, interest those for whom they were written, as they give some account of where I went and what I did. Both expeditions, happily, proved most successful. The Prince of Wales returned to England, after a long and rapid journey through a variety of climates and exposure to many causes of disease and accident, the object accomplished without loss of life, and with comparatively little sickness. It was a duty of considerable anxiety and responsibility that I had to perform, but I never entertained any doubt as to the course that ought to be pursued in regard to sanitary precautions, and when difficulties occasionally arose, my recommendations were generally accepted by those best able to form a correct opinion on their merits. I have reason to be thankful that all terminated so well, and shall always look back with pleasure and satisfaction to the expedition. The gracious recognition that I have received from the Queen and Royal Family, assured me that my services, however imperfect, were appreciated. The courtesy and kindness of my companions on both occasions, and the firm support of many during periods of anxiety, made my duty agreeable, and have impressed me with strong feelings of regard and friendship for them all. mg Wtf* anii VISIT OF H.R.H.THE PRINCE OF WALES TO INDIA. IN the i jth of March, 1875, I received the following note from Major-General Sir Thomas Pears, Military Secretary at the India Office : MARCH 17x11, 1875, INDIA OFFICE. MY DEAR DR. FAYRER, The Prince of Wales contemplates a visit to India next cold season, and will probably leave England in November for an absence of four or five months. H.R.H. has ex- pressed a wish that you should accompany him as his medical adviser, and the Marquis of Salisbury will be glad to hear from you as soon as possible whether you will be willing to accept the office. Yours sincerely (Signed), Dr. Fayrer, C.S.I. T. PEARS. I sent the following reply : MARCH I7TH, 1875. MY DEAR SIR THOMAS PEARS, I will accompany the Prince of Wales to India with the greatest pleasure, and feel much honoured by His Royal Highness's commands. Yours sincerely, Major-General Sir T. T. Pears, K.C.B. J. FAYRER. On the 1 7th April, 1875, I went with the Prince and Princess of Wales, Sir B. Frere, and General Probyn to Sandringham, to pay a visit, and returned to London on the iQth April. I made expeditions to Portsmouth at different times : one on the 27th May, 1875, with Admiral Sir W. Mends, K.C.B., the Admiral charged with the fitting out of the Serapis. We went all over the ship, and I made some suggestions as to fittings. On another occasion I accompanied the Prince and Suite, and made suggestions about the cabins. Returned with them to London the same day. I had an interview with the Prince of Wales on 25th May, at Marlborough House ; was presented to Princess Alice and Prince of Hesse. I attended some meetings of the Suite with Probyn, Ellis, W. H. Russell, Sir B. Frere, and H.R.H. , to discuss details connected with the expedition. Wrote a memo, on the subject, giving my views as to when the Prince should arrive in, and leave India, and on other matters connected with the expedition. MEMO. It would be better not to arrive in India before the I5th or 2Oth of November; nor to remain later than the ist of March. If Cashmere be visited, it will involve a longer stay in the country. This, as far as Cashmere is concerned, would be unobjection- B able, as the elevation is about 5,000 feet, and the climate cool and healthy up to a much later period ; but as it would be necessary to re-embark at Bombay, a return to the heat of the plains of India would be inevitable, though only for a few days. There would probably be some risk to health, and the inconve- nience would be considerable, though brief. A visit to Cashmere would, therefore, require careful consideration before being undertaken. If Ceylon be included in the programme, it will be well to com- mence with that island, and about the 25th of November would be a good time for doing so. The latitude of Ceylon implies an equable temperature, and such, as a matter of fact, is the case. The climate is humid and warm, but not unhealthy. The following are the " means " of maximum and minimum temperatures of the five months November, December, January, February and March : MONTHS. Mean Maximum Mean Minimum Rain Fall. REMARKS. November ... December ... January 86. 3 85 8s.6 7i.5 70 69. 2 10.7 4-3 ^i N.E. Monsoon commences February . March 89 8 7 .7 7? 73- 1 2.1 2.1 Weather gets oppressive Ceylon, I presume, would be visited either at the beginning or termination of the Indian Expedition, and this would probably be in the latter part of November, or in March. December and January are the coolest months, but these should be spent in Bengal and N.W.P. In March it begins to be oppressive in Ceylon. The island might be visited in March or April, but it would be hot. In May the S.W. monsoon sets in, and it would not be desirable to remain till then. Moreover, the return voyage would be dis- agreeable. From after the I5th November up to the beginning, or even middle of February, the plains of India, generally, offer an excellent climate; even in Madras it is not very warm. Much of the country of Mysore and the Deccan lies high, and the climate is agreeable and healthy. These parts of India might be visited immediately after Ceylon. In Bengal, December, January, and the first half of February are cool and pleasant ; often cold. Arriving in Calcutta about, or after the loth of December, the climate would be excellent, travelling and camp-life most enjoyable and free from risk. At any season the middle of the day may be somewhat hot, but there is no danger, and the simplest precautions obviate any inconvenience. The air is bright, genial, and invigorating ; the highest state of health may be antici- pated, and the wholesome effect of the out-of-door life is manifest. There is no special tendency to disease, and none need be feared be- yond such ailments as might occur anywhere. It is no exaggeration to say that the climate of the plains of India during December, January and February is superior to that of Europe, and is congenial to the European constitution. This is the season for shooting, sight-seeing and camp-life. The best tiger-shooting- in some parts of India, however, is later : in March, April, and May. Supposing Calcutta were to be left about the middle of December, Bengal, including Purneah, Maldah, perhaps some of the Berham- pootra Churs (good shooting grounds), might be visited. So on to Benares, Allahabad, Central India, the Central Provinces, and perhaps next to Oude, Lucknow, the Terai, Nepal frontier and Rohilkund. Thence to N . W.Provinces, Delhi, Agra,Rajpootana,and thePunjab. Throughout all these provinces and districts the climate is excel- lent, and remains cool and pleasant even up to the middle of March. From the Punjab the Hill Stations might be visited. They would be very cold, but the weather would, probably, be bright and clear. The climate of the N.W. Provinces and Punjab, indeed all North India, from December to March, is one of the finest in the world, being more bracing than that of the south. It is frequently very cold, and especially at nights, the thermometer falling to freezing point or lower. The cold weather is more prolonged than in Lower Bengal. In Calcutta it often becomes unpleasantly warm in the day after the I5th February, whilst in the North-West the cold, fresh air con- tinues fully a month later. It is healthy enough even throughout the great heat of the latter part of April, May, and June, but very oppres- sive, and, after the West winds begin, intolerably so. Care as to proper clothing, food, drink, and immediate attention to ailments, however trivial, is necessary under all circumstances; with due attention to these, and the most ordinary precaution for pre- serving health, a visit to India in the cold season is as free from danger to life or health, as it would be in any part of Europe. The following are the " means " of daily temperature of different parts of India for the year : STATIONS. January. February. March. Jri A 1 1 "3 43* 1 1 f October. November. December. Galle 783 788 8io 8i 7 82! 8o4 79 i 794 795 bO2 793 788 Madras ... 77 7 82 82I 8 4 7 86 7 896 886 86i 8 5 i 794 77 8 77 i Calcutta 68 3 745 8o 3 8 4 4 87 882 8358 3 5 845 82! 76 7 02 Patna ... 622 9 i c 6 9 i4 867 853 86i 8o2 7 2I 64 Benares 62 3 686 783 893 929 ! 97% 866 8 5 6 854 778 693 62 Allahabad 62 3 688 786 92*1 974 8 5 i 85! 843 ?68 6 9 i 6o8 Lucknow 623J6S3 77 9i8 978 87 86 7 86 85 783 6 7 5 61 6 2 2 Agra 639 707 8o7 9I2 902 977 8 4 7 8i 7 7 6 4 689 Meerut ... 6o6 6 7 6 7 6 3 8 7 3 8S6 97 i 8 7 6 868 8 3 8 76% 6 7 3 58 c i Nagpore 71 J77r83i 9o8 937 895 8o9 82I 8o4 782 744 6 7 y ft If Bombay were reached towards the end of February, India might be quitted by ist of March, unless circumstances and an un- usually prolonged cold weather suggested a more protracted stay, and then the question of visiting Cashmere would arise. By limiting the stay in India within these dates, and following something like the above plan of route, the best part of India might be visited in a season which, as to climate, can scarcely be surpassed, and when there is no reason to anticipate either inconvenience or danger to health. Certain precautions and care are necessary, of course, and should be scrupulously observed. It is essential that there should not be un- due hurry in travelling, or any attempt to do too much. With all economy and pre-arrangement of plans, much would have to be done, and it is essential to health that there should be intervals of rest and quiet, to avoid over-fatigue. Therefore, beyond what is unavoidable, the amount of fatiguing ceremonial, and visiting of public institutions should be as limited as possible, and the time spent in camp should exceed that in cities. I believe that, with such precautions, the expedition would be free from all danger, and will be conducive to health. On the 26th July, 1875, I saw Lord Carnarvon at the Colonial Office, with Dr. Charsley, late P.M.O. in Ceylon, to discuss the prospects from a health point of view, of the Ceylon trip ; and also the expediency of avoiding certain districts in the island. Dr. C. gave me much useful information, and we satisfied Lord Carnarvon that no undue risk need be incurred. The exact route to be followed in Ceylon was left undetermined until we arrived there, I also consulted with Mr. Birch, secretary to the Government of Ceylon, and saw Lord Salisbury on the subject; communications from Mr. Gregory, the Governor of Ceylon, were also referred to me. I received valuable information from Captain Stuart, of the P. and O. service, on the climate of the Red Sea and Indian Ocean, during the season of the year when the Prince was likely to be there ; whilst the secretary of the P. and O. was most courteous and obliging in furnishing any information required. Admiral Sir W. Mends obtained for me valu- able information concerning the temperature of the Red Sea and the Indian Ocean. I received many communications on the subject of climate of different parts of India from other gentlemen, and an interesting letter on Mysore and its vicinity from Mr. J. D. Gordon, C.S.I., of that commission, which was of much value in reference to one of the most important questions that arose subsequently in regard to the modification of the Prince's movements on account of the cholera that prevailed in those parts. Dr. Lord, of the Bombay service, gave me interesting information relating to sport and game localities in Central India. These would have been of great service had time permitted the Prince to visit the places indicated. I made some suggestions as to the clothing and head-dress to be worn, and, on the whole, those adopted did well. As to guns, I took with me my two 12 central fire smooth- bores, with plenty of No. 6 shot and round bullet cartridges, and also a 12 rifle, by Moore and Grey, with round and conical bullet cart- ridges, and a revolver. I also had several pairs of Indian clubs, of different weights, put on board the Serapis for exercise during the passage out. 9 I suggested to the Admiral that two cabins might be constructed, one on each side, in the fore part of the ship in case of very hot weather, as such are always cooler than those abaft, but it was decided not to have them, from want of space and other reasons, and because the arrangements for cooling the after cabins were to be so perfect that they would be superfluous. Mr. Sclater, of the Zoological Society, procured me the services of Mr. Clarence Bartlett as Taxi- dermist, and Dr. Hooker, C.B., of Kew, did the like in respect of Mr. Mudd, from Cambridge, as plant collector during the expedition. Dr. Paul, of the Madras Medical Service (the Indian member of the Medical Board), will conduct my duties as President of the Medical Board during my absence. I saw Sir W. Armstrong, Director- General of the Medical Department of the Navy, on the subject of the medical and hygienic arrangements for the Se.rapis, and all was most satisfactory. The medical officers are to act in concert with me when required. Mr. Squire, of Oxford-street, provided the medicine chests. I wrote to the private Secretary of the Viceroy of India to request that a medical officer may be appointed to take charge of the camp and followers in India under me, and that an apothecary and compounder might be in readiness when we arrive in Bombay. On 27th July, 1875, I went to Osborne by the Queen's commands, and there had a long private interview with Her Majesty, who gave me instructions, and told me her wishes regarding the journey, and especially about avoiding exposure to cholera. The Queen directed me to write direct to Her Majesty frequently, and give her full particulars of the Prince's health. I returned to town the next day. On the 8th October I had an interview with the Princess of Wales, and received her instructions and wishes on the subject of the approaching expedition ; took leave of the Duchess of Sutherland. I also saw the Prince of Wales with Sir William Gull and repeated the advice I have already given in reference to preservation of health during the expedition. On 3rd October, 1875, I went to see the Duke of Cambridge, who was most gracious and kind; he talked much about the approaching expedition and its importance and responsibility as regarded the Prince of Wales. I append copies of letters and memo, relating to sanitary questions that arose in connexion with the expedition, some of which will explain my reasons for dissuading the Prince of Wales from visiting certain parts of India and also some memoranda connected with other matters. Unfortunately, cholera was actively epidemic in Southern India, and, in my judgment, so dangerous that it would have been unjustifiable to allow the Prince to incur such undue risk, not only to himself, but to the large number of Europeans who accompanied him to say nothing of the large gathering of camp followers, attendants, and other people, who would flock together on the occasion. As it was, considerable risk was incurred. In the N.W. this diminished, as far as cholera was concerned, but in Ceylon and in the Terai I knew that, although the season was the best, yet malarial influence is never altogether in abeyance, and it was almost too much to expect that so large a party, so much exposed, should altogether escape. Again in Bombay we met with a severe epidemic of small-pox, and it became a subject of great anxiety lest the disease should appear on board the Serapis. Fortunately, thanks to the sanitary precautions taken by the captain and officers, she escaped, and H.R.H. was enabled to embark without risk, and the journey was completed without con- tinued or serious illness. Canon Duckworth contracted typhoid fever when at Peshawur, but he perfectly recovered. Beyond slight fever, colds, rheumatic attacks, incipient dysentry, diarrhoea, sore throats, or congested liver, we had no severe illness, and the only evidences of malarious poisoning were those that occurred in Lords S and A , after exposure to wetting in the Ceylon jungles. Two fractured collar bones, a concussion of the brain, a bruise or two, fractured incisor teeth from a blow of the butt-end of a spear, and a few slight injuries by falls, or upsetting of carriages, were the only accidents that befel the party. One only had to be invalided for liver congestion, and he perfectly recovered. The state of cholera in India, and especially on the S.W. coast, during 1875, is shewn in the following extract from the sanitary reports for the year. Reports and telegrams from the Civil and Medical authorities exist in abundance in confirmation of the prevalence of the disease : DEATHS IN INDIA FROM CHOLERA DURING 1875 AS COMPARED WITH 1874- PROVINCE. POPULATION Deaths in 1875. Deaths in 1874. Bengal Proper ") 67.787.^77 116,606 77,, 7^4 Assam ) N.W. Provinces 70,760,0^6 41,106 6,306 Oude .. .. II 174. 78^ 27. 721 68 Punjab 17.4.87 12^ 6,246 78 Central Provinces 7,4.27,618 14,647 14 Berar 2, l84,Q4 <> 22,46^ 2 British Burmah 2,778,7c:8 761 960 Madras j 30,360,211 Q7,O^I 343 Mysore ) Bombay 16,228,774. 47,^77 ^7 Rajpootana ... ) Hydrabad ... V Not known 14,640 4 Central India ) Left Charing Cross Station at 8.48 p.m. of the 9th October, 1875, for Dover. My wife and Harry, our fourth son, accompanied me to the station, and saw us off. A crowd of people assembled to see their friends depart on the Indian expedition. The day had been wet, but cleared up at night, a strong W.N.W. wind blowing. I found myself in a saloon carriage with Lord Alfred Paget and his son. We arrived at Dover at 10.45 p.m., the night fine, cold fresh breeze, and starlight. We embarked in the Samphire, which immediately left the pier. I had been suffering all day from a very painful abscess at the root of a double tooth, which caused me much annoyance. We had a rough and stormy but quick passage. I remained on the bridge nearly all the time, and was not ill ; many of my companions were sick. We found the Paris train on the pier at Calais, with refreshments prepared for us at the station, and after partaking of some, the train left for Paris. My painful face kept me awake nearly all night, but it became rather easier towards daylight. We arrived in Paris at 8 a.m., and went to the Hotel Bristol, where II rooms had been secured for the party, consisting of Sir B. Frere, Lord A. Paget, General Probyn, Mr. Paget. Mr. Albert Grey, the Rev. Canon Duckworth, and Dr. Fayrer, Lord Carrington, Dr. W. H. Russell, Mr. Fitz George, and Colonel Owen Williams, followed next day and joined us in Paris. On Monday, nth October, the rest of the party left London with the Prince of Wales, the Princess and suite accompanying them as far as Calais. The second party consisted of the Prince of Wales, the Duke of Sutherland, Lord Suffield, the Earl of Aylesford, Colonel A. Ellis, Mr. Francis Knollys, Lord C. Beresford, Major A. Clark, who is going out to join his regiment in India, joined the Serapis at Brindisi by the Prince's invitation. There is also a number of ser- vants. Sunday, loth October, Paris. Fine clear morning. We arrived at the hotel at about 8 a.m., and had breakfast ; my face eas-'er, the abscess having burst. Lord Alfred, his son, General Probyn. Mr. Grey, and I went to the top of the Column Vendome, which has been re-erected since I was in Paris in 1872. It has 176 steps to the summit, whence there is a fine view of the city and its environs. We went to church in the Rue d'Aguesseau. The clergyman preached a sermon on *' Can these dry bones live?" On our way to the hotel we called and left cards at the British Embassy; we all have cards, with our names and designations. Mine, for example, is "Surgeon-General J. Fayrer, M.D., Physician to H.R.H. the Prince of Wales." After lunch and writing home, I drove with Lord A. Paget through the Champs Elysees, and went to see the panorama of the Siege of Paris a most wonderfully executed design. It is difficult to tell where painting ends, and reality begins. The effect is excellent. We then drove in the Bois de Boulogne, and afterwards returned to dinner. I sent a telegram and a letter home to-day, hav- ing previously sent a pencil note from Dover. Monday, nth October, Paris. Have a bad cold, but my face is better; slept fairly till 3.30 a.m., when I lit a candle and read "Old Mortality." Had a long talk with Lord A. P. last night about the coming visit to India. It is a wet, cloudy morning; Lord C. has just joined us. I called on Dr. Evans, the celebrated American dentist who is equally celebrated as a politician a friend of the late Emperor and his family. He examined my mouth, and thought I might save the tooth. He was most kind, and seemed very skilful ; he told me that he had made a fortune. Called on the R 's, in the Avenue des Champs Elysees. Afterwards went with Lord A. P. and Mr. D. to Notre Dame, and Jardin des Plantes; drove home through the Boulevards to dinner at 6.30 p.m. We leave Paris this evening at 8.45 for Turin. At the railway station I met Dr. C. who is on his way to Calcutta. He had brought me a letter from home, the first I have received ; all well except B. who had a bad cold. Young P. here took leave to return to London. Restless night, with bad, feverish cold; face better. Reached Culoz early on the morn- ing of I2th. James was nearly left behind; he came home very late; having lost his way with some of the other servants. I was very angry at this escapade ! Tuesday, \2th. Breakfast at Culoz, lunch at Modane ; day fine, and clear cold air. My cold so bad that I could not enjoy anything. Travelled for two or three hours with Dr. C. and talked about Calcutta. He is going, via Turin, to Brindisi; sent messages by him to friends in Calcutta, whose children I had seen in England before leaving. The scenery after Culoz beautiful, passing through Aix les Bains, Chambery, and Modane, near which the tunnel begins, it took just 21 minutes to pass through the tunnel. The scenery on the Italian side is perfectly lovely; the day was clear, and the snow already thickly covers the higher peaks. We did not reach Turin till near 7 p.m. Went to the Hotel Feder, which seems excellent. We have a capital courier with us, who makes all needful arrange- ments; we dined at 8.30 p.m. At 10 I took a warm bath and went to bed ; took some diaphoretic medicine. Two of my companions, slightly ailing, required chlorodyne on the journey. I wrote my second letter home here. My face still worrying me from inflammation of the gum. The weather is decidedly cold. Wednesday, i^th October, en route to Bologna. Beautiful bright morning ; glorious view of the Alps, with the range of snowy peaks and ridges. This morning we breakfasted at 8.30 ; drove with Lord A. P. and P. to see something of Turin. Saw the principal streets and buildings; noticed Cavour's statue and many others. It is a clean rather formal-looking little city ; very picturesquely situated. The air feels crisp and cold on this clear day, coming from the snows, which seem so close. At 9.40 a.m. we left for Bologna in a train with saloon carriages. There is a magnificent panorama of the Alpine chain from Monte Viso to the Simplon, Monte Cervino Rosa, Mont Blanc very clearly seen. Passed through Alexandria, Tortona, Piacenza, Parma. Lunched in our carriages ; arrived at Bologna at 4.40 p.m. ; route picturesque all the way, though less so as one loses sight of the Alps ; went to Hotel Brun and occupied the rooms that Bessie and I were in in 1872, when we were returning from India. Found Sir M. Costa, the musician, staying there ; he dined with us. Wrote home by the midnight mail ; I have received no letters yet except the one Charles brought me. D not very well ; change of food and air the cause. The air bright, fresh and cold in the morning, became milder as we approached Bologna. The Hotel Brun is very good and comfortable ; the weather changed in the evening, and it began to rain. Thursday, i^th October, Bologna. After breakfast went with Sir B. Frere, Probyn, and Grey, to see the Academy, Pinacotheca, especially to see Raphael's St. Cecilia, which is a glorious painting. Thence to the old University, one of the earliest of universities, where Galvani Malpighi and other celebrities taught medicine. The lecture- room, lined with carved cedar, and pulpit and chair of the same wood, is very interesting, where these great professors taught. The walls of the quadrangle are covered with the coats of arms of students of all nations. Bought some photographs of the lady professors of former times ; among other subjects, anatomy was once taught here by a lady; in Greek and jurisprudence they were no less famous. There are some very interesting recently-dis- covered Etruscan remains preserved in the museum of this institution, which were explained to us by a very intelligent, indeed highly-educated custodian, who went round with us. We then drove to the Certosa or Campo Santo, which is beautifully kept, and abounds in splendid monuments to great Bolognese and other Italians of distinction. Thence we drove to see San Michele the palace is empty and unfurnished, but has been very grand. There is a splendid view of the city and surrounding country from this eminence. Drove to the hotel to dinner at 6, and early to bed, as we start at 3 a.m. for Brindisi ; wrote letters home. Bologna is a most interesting old city, and we feel quite sorry to leave it so soon. One would like to remain a week at least to study the Etruscan remains and the old university. The leaning towers of Bologna are curious; they look as though they might fall at any moment. Friday, i$th October, Bologna to Brindisi. We were off at 3.30 in the morning. Lord A. P., Fitz George, and I were in a coupe", the rest in a saloon carriage. Weather wet and stormy. We hear that the Serapis has arrived at Brindisi. The route to Brindisi is interest- ing, especially on the Adriatic coast, and near Ancona the view of the Apennines and of one snowy peak especially is fine. We reached Foggia at 4.30 p.m. ; had a hurried dinner in a quar- ter of an hour and then off again ; arrived at Brindisi at II p.m. The Serapis is lying in the inner harbour ; boats were waiting close to where the train stopped, and we went off at once. Found our cabins ready and were glad to go to bed. The weather has been very wet and stormy, but it is now improving. Saturday, i6th October, on board H.M.S. Serapis at Brindisi. The Prince and his party arrived at Brindisi by -special train this morning at 9 a.m. The British Minister in Italy was with H.R.H.; a guard of honour was drawn up to receive the Prince. The Minister of Marine, Count Maffei, and the local, military, and municipal authorities were present. Salutes were fired by Italian and British ships-of-war in the harbour. The Prince proceeded on board the Serapis to breakfast. The Minister of Marine sat on the Prince's right, Count Maffei on his left at table. The weather is now fine ; there has been some rain, and still a good breeze. We left the harbour of Brindisi at about 10 a.m. Weather improving; temperature pleasant; thermometer 67 at noon in my cabin. The ships-of-war two British Pallas and Invincible, and two Italian ironclads saluted the Prince as he went out of harbour. As we got to sea we found rather a heavy swell and nearly head-wind, which made the ship pitch a good deal ; before evening several of the party were sea-sick. H.R.H. felt it a good deal towards the evening: I went into his cabin to see if I could do anything; he soon got over it. The dinner party small to-day. Breakfast is to be at 8, luncheon at 2, dinner at 7.30. I was not sick, and managed dinner, though with difficulty. There is a very uneasy swell, the result of recent heavy gales. The Serapis appears to have had a very stormy and long pas- sage from Portsmouth. Some defect in the boilers, which primed, had delayed her. These defects have now all been overcome. The Serapis is one of the Indian troop steamers, and has been made over by the Indian Government to the Admiralty for the Prince's Indian voyage and from her great size and accommodation she is better fitted for the work than perhaps any other of H.M. ships. She is painted white, with a line of gold beading round her, and the stern and bow are decorated with the insignia of the Star of India. She is 6,211 ton c measurement, 700 nominal, actual 3,945 h.p., and can carry an entire regiment with its followers. 14 She has been specially fitted for the occasion, all the old cabins have been taken down and reconstructed for the present duty. The entire upper or spar deck is clear, except for a deck-house opening from the staircase leading from the great saloon. This is for a lounging and smoking-room, especially when in warm latitudes. It is handsomely furnished with oak furniture. Couches, with brown Morocco leather, tables, book-cases, and chairs. The great saloon on the next the second deck is devoted entirely to the Prince's cabin, and to the dining and drawing-rooms, which are separated from each other by a transverse curtain that can be drawn at plea- sure. The fore-part is the dining-room, and here oak tables can be fitted in a horse-shoe form to dine 60 persons, though generally one long table will suffice. On each side of the dining-room are the Prince's apartments. Those on the port side are intended for the outward, those on the starboard side for the homeward journey. This arrangement having reference to the position of the sun, and the consequent rela- tive coolness of the two sides of the ship. The painting and decor- ations of these cabins are plain, with beading of blue and gold. The furniture, oak and Morocco leather. There are book-cases and an extensive and well-chosen library. On the third deck, which is reached from the dining saloon by a new and broad staircase, are the cabins of the suite, on each side of the ship; they are large and each has two or more ports, so that there is plenty of light and ventilation. All the centre cabins having been removed, the rest of the deck between the cabins is an open space. Along this deck the grand entry is to pass from one of the great side ports which opens on to this extensive deck, which is clear fore and aft, except for the space occupied by the machinery, and certain cabins for the officers in the fore part of the ship. It makes a long walk, which is protected from the weather, and will be very much appreciated when it is wet and stormy. Along the side of the second deck are other cabins, storehouses, stables for the Prince's three English horses and for the cows. Fur- ther forward the sick bay for the ship, and one for the domestics and others of our party ; still further forward the quarters of the crew. The European servants of the Prince and suite have cabins and mess rooms on the deck below the cabins of the suite. They are divided into two messes, one senior, the other junior. The party consists of 18 noblemen and g'entlemen in the suite, exclusive .of naval officers; 12 members of the superior mess of attendants, 18 of the junior. The Prince has an Afghan servant ; Lord Suffield a Madras boy, and I have a Mahomedan from Azimgurh, Shekh Ibrahim making a total of 51 persons. Among the party are Mr. C. Bartlett, Taxidermist, Mr. Mudd, plant collector, Mr. Isaacson, of the India Office, who is in charge of the presents for the chiefs and others in India. The speed of the Serapis is expected to be about 12 to 14 knots an hour. There is an excellent military band from the head-quarters of the Royal Marines at Portsmouth. There is also a guard of honour of Marines and Marine Artillery, and the crew are all picked men. The Seraph is commanded by Captain the Hon. H. Carr Glyn, C.B., A.D.C. Dr. Watson, who was surgeon of the Galatea, with the Duke of Edinburgh, and was one of the Duke's Indian party, is chief medical officer of the ship. Soon after leaving Brindisi the following list of the suite was published : 1. His Grace the Duke of Sutherland, K.G. 2. The Right Hon. Sir H. Bartle Frere, G.C.S.I., K.C.B. 3. The Lord Suffield, Lord in Waiting, and Head of H.R.H.'s Household. 4. Major-General the Lord Alfred Paget, Clerk-Marshal to the Queen. 5. The Earl of Aylesford. 6. Major-General D. M. Probyn, C.B., V.C., Equerry to H.R.H. the Prince of Wales. 7. Lieut.-Col. Arthur Ellis, Grenadier Guards, Equerry to H.R.H. the Prince of Wales. 8. Mr. Francis Knollys, Private Secretary to H.R.H. the Prince of Wales. 9. Surgeon -General J. Fayrer, M.D., C.S.I., Hon. Physician to the Queen ; Physician to H.R.H. the Prince of Wales. 10. Captain the Hon. H. C. Carr Glyn, C.B., % R.N,, Serapis, Aide-de-Camp to the Queen. 11. Col. Owen Williams, commanding royal regiment of Horse Guards (Blues). 12. Lieut, the Lord Charles Beresford, R.N., M.P., Aide-de- Camp to H.R.H. the Prince of Wales. 13. Captain the Lord Carrington, Royal Horse Guards, Aide-de- Camp to H.R.H. the Prince of Wales. 14. The Rev. Canon Duckworth, Chaplain to H.M. the Queen; Chaplain to H.R.H. the Prince of Wales. 15. Lieut. A. Fitz George, Rifle Brigade, Extra Aide-de-Camp to H.R.H. the Prince of Wales. 1 6. Commander Durrant, commanding the yacht Osborne, in attendance. 17. Mr. W. H. Russell, LL.D., Hon. Private Secretary to H.R.H. the Prince of Wales. 1 8. Mr. Albert Grey, Private Secretary to Right Hon. Sir B. Frere. 19. Mr. Sydney Hall, M.A., artist in the suite of H.R.H. the Prince of Wales. 20. Major Clarke, Hussars, accompanying H.R.H. to Bombay. Messrs. Bartlett, Taxidermist; Mudd, plant collector; and Isaac- son, of the Indian Office ; and the following principal servants : Mr. Downie, page. Mr. Grirnm, valet. Mr. MacDonald, yager. M. Bonnemain, chef de cuisine. M. Jeute, assistant chef de cuisine. Mr. Prince, H.R.H.'s stud groom. Mr. Macalister, Duke of Sutherland's piper. Mr. Abraham, Mr. Isaacson's assistant ; and the following servants : Feelan, Lord Suffield's valet. Blackburn, sergeant footman. Sims, footman. Palmer, footman. Chandler, wardrobeman. Robertson, assistant page and piper. 16 Mitchell, chief apprentice. Codridge, groom to H.R.H. Wright, Lord Carrington's servant. Potter, Lord A. Paget's servant. Myers, Lord Aylesford's servant. Treadwell, Sir B. Frere's servant. Evans, Col. Ellis's servant. Gillard, Gen. Probyn's servant. Tom Fatt (Chinese), Lord C. Beresford's servant. C. James, Dr. Fayrer's servant. Malt, Lieut. FitzGeorge's servant. Phipps, Col. Williams's servant. MacLachlan, Duke of Sutherland's second piper. Azeez-ood-deen, H.R.H.'s Afghan servant. Beemun, Madras boy, Lord Suffield's servant. Shekh Ibrahim, Dr. Fayrer's servant. The servants are dressed in a plain, Oxford mixture livery. The suite wear undress uniform, Austrian patrol jacket, with the buttons of 'regiment or staff. Military officers full dress : full dress uniform with white helmet and spike and red puggerie in undress, a white helmet without spike. Civilians wear deputy-lieu- tenant's uniform, or political, or court dress with helmet. There is a light Cashmere coat, faced with silk, with the buttons as on the patrol jacket for dining on board the Serapis. For evening dress a dark blue coat with black velvet collar, and buttons as on the patrol jackets. We have also an ulster, made of Tussah silk, to wear as - dust coat in India ; shell or patrol jackets for the military officers, accord- ing to rank. Sunday, ijth October. At sea, en route to Athens. Fine weather, but rough sea, and a good deal of motion ; some of the party sea-sick. Two services to-day; I attended both. Am feeling well now; my face and cold are better. Writing letters home and to friends, and to Sir W. Jenner. The Prince seems to be in excellent health, and all the party are well, except for sea-sickness. Mr. Sydney Hall, I should have mentioned, joined the party at Brindisi ; he and Major Clarke came round in the Serapis. The following is a list of the officers of the Serapis : Captain the Hon. H. Carr Glyn, C.B., A.D.C.; Commander F. G. D. Bedford; Staff-Commander W. B. Goldsmith. Lieutenants. E. G. Hulton, J. L. Hammett, H. K. Gregson, J. R. Prickett, H. F. Smith-Dorien. Royal Marines. Major Snow, Lieut. Lambert, R.M.A.; Lieut. Burroughs, R.M. Fleet Surgeon, Dr. A. Watson. Surgeons, Dr. H. C. Woods and Dr. W. Algeo. Chaplain, R.N., Rev. C. E. York. Paymaster, T. Bradbridge. Assistant-Paymasters, H. R. Dalgleish and R. Donaldson. Sub-Lieutenants, Hon. F. Spring-Rice, H.S.H. Prince Louis of Battenberg, R. S. Lowry, Hon. P. M. Hely Hutchinson. Navigating Sub-Lieut., J. D. Moulton. Inspector of Machinery, M. Oliver. Chief Engineers, J. G. Shearman, W. Kelly, Peter Fckford, George Brewer, John Dinwoodie, Samuel J. Rock, J. Y. Mayston. Gunner, E. D. Has well. Boatswains, M. J. Taylor and E. Hele. Carpenter, J. Pennicott. Assistant-Engineer, J. C. Larg and Charles Rudd. Monday, \%th October, at sea, en route to Athens. Passed Cape Colonna (Sunium) and Salamis ; entered the Piraeus at about loa.m. Fine weather. In anchoring both chains parted, and in drifting we fouled the Royal Greek yacht and carried away her bowsprit ; the king was on board. By very skilful management we escaped further damage, and the ship was secured after nearly running on to one of the ironclads. The ships in the harbour were gaily decorated ; salutes were fired in all directions; vast numbers of people collected ; evidently a most enthusiastic reception is intended. H.M. the King of the Hellenes came on board; we had the Greek flag flying at the bow, English at the stern, Royal Standard at the main. Vice-Admiral Drummond, K.C.B., came on board, and many other officers and high officials. We were all in full uniform to receive them, and were introduced to the king a young man of about 30 brother of the Princess of Wales. The Prince landed with the king in the Royal barge, and took with him the Duke of Sutherland, Lords Suffield, Carrington, Aylesford, and Dr. Russell, and went to the palace. Bands on shore playing " God save the Queen." A guard of honour to receive the Prince and the King. They drove to the railway station, which, like the Piraeus, was decorated with flags, thence to Athens, and to the Royal palace, where the Prince was received by Queen Olga. The rest landed soon after, and went by train to Athens, and did as much sight-seeing as possible. It was a fine day, and the sun rather hot; temperature in cabin at noon 70; air very bright and clear. On arriving at Athens we went to the Royal palace; wrote our names ; then went to the Acropolis, Parthenon Propylea, Temple of Theseus and of Jupiter Olympus. We had not much time, as we had to return to the ship to dress for dinner at the palace at 7.30. There was only a small party ; after dinner the young princes went round the table and spoke to the guests. The Duke of S., Aylesford, Carrington, and Russell sleep at the palace ; the others return to the ship. The night air is bright, clear and chilly, with heavy dew. The English Consul tells me that fever is not uncommon. In consequence of the dearth of vegetation it is a most dry, arid country and its uncultivated state and sparse population seem to have changed the physical condition of the climate as well as of the country. It is difficult to conceive how this can have been the Athens of the Greece of history : it could not have been like this in ancient times. I made enquiry about the existence of Canotica,* which I thought should be found here, as it is in Crete, but could learn nothing ; I did not however see any of the medical men. Our party all well, with the exception of trifling ailments, the result of change of food and mode of living. Tuesday, igth October, Piraeus. We all landed early, and went to Athens by train. I was much struck with the insignificant appearance of the Acropolis, as seen from the railway approaching Athens it is very different when one nears it, and when the vast extent and magnificence of the ruins are brought near the eye. The country, too, is so dry, burnt up, and desolate-looking; so little vegetation, except a few vineyards and gardens, and patches of sombre grey, green-looking olive trees. The hills seem perfectly barren * A Sore like the Dellii boil. and uncultivated; one can hardly realise that it is Hymettus and Pentelicus that we are looking at. We went to the palace, and after tea and coffee we all set out in carriages, in company with the king, queen, and their suite, some of the ladies in waiting, Baron Guldencrone and Admiral Sartoris, for the king's country Chateau of Tatoi, distant 16 or 18 miles across the plain of Attica, over a miserably barren country, except for patches of vines and [olives, simply so, I imagine, because it is uncultivated, for some of the low- land looked as if it would be fertile enough if cultivated. This road to Tatoi, made by King George, is the only carriage-road in Greece, as the short railway from the Piraeus to Athens is the only railway. The road terminates at Tatoi, which is a pretty, plain building in the pine woods which clothe the hills that begin to rise here. There is much underwood, and as we approach the house, Arbutus, dwarf oak, and an ilex, with a large acorn. There is also a kind of heather, the Mediterranean heather, I suppose. Tatoi is in Deucalia, and is surrounded by pine woods, and the Eucalyptus has also been planted, and seems to be likely to thrive. The king took me all over the house, and showed me every room and the children's nursery. He told me how he had bought and improved the pro- perty within the last four years. The grounds are prettily laid out, and there are fine views of Athens, the Acropolis, the Attica Plain, Pentelicus, Hymettus, Parnes, and Salamis, with glimpses of the bay and Megera in the distance. This is said to have been one of the places where brigands used to watch Athens, that with glasses they could see when travellers left the city, for whom they used to lie in wait. In this direction at all events there seems to be no brigands now, and Baron Guldencrone, a Danish naval officer, the king's A.D.C., told us that the brigands were not nearly such bad fellows as they have been represented. He laughed at E. About's description of them ! We walked about the grounds ; went with the king to see the stables and a tower on a neighbouring hill. Some of the party rode on the king's horses, the Prince among the number. There were Arabs, Barbs, and other horses. We had a splendid dejeuner in the garden ; gathered some delicious grapes, and collected several plants, seeds, &c., for Mr. Mudd. Towards evening we drove back to Athens, Duckworth and I together in a carriage, and arrived after dark. There were great displays of fireworks, and the Acropolis was brilliantly illuminated; salutes were also fired. There was a grand state dinner at the palace of about 140 people. It was a gorgeous display of uniforms and dress, and the servants dressed in Albanian costume looked very picturesque. We were in full uniform. I dressed in Mr. Mallet's room he is Secretary of Legation Mr. Stewart is the Minister and is in constant attendance. The monuments and ruins of the Acropolis, and all the temples weie brilliantly illuminated. There were fire- works in the streets and from tne ships ; great crowds of people assembled. It was very gorgeous, but I think I would rather see these ruins by daylight and without fireworks. I was much interested in seeing Mars Hill, and could hardly realize that this was really the place where St. Paul preached and told the Athenians of the " unknown God." The weather bright and hot in the day, is cold and chilly at night, and rather trying. We drove down to the Piraeus at 11.20, the last train having left Athens at n. We got on board and in bed by i a.m., rather tired with a long day 19 of excitement and fatigue. Some of the party have trivial ailments, change of climate and food the cause. Wednesday, zoth October. Wrote letters home and to Sir W. Jenner ; went on shore with Sir B. Frere and the British Consul to see some Greek antiquities, vases, and figures in terra cotta, found chiefly at or near Corinth. They were small, but very beautiful, and of fabulous value ; small figures worth 2,000 to 5,000 francs. About noon the Prince with the king and queen, and their suites, Admiral Drum- mond and Mr. Stuart, came on board, under salutes, and in great state. The men-of-war in harbour English, Russian, American, Greek saluted and manned yards. The Royal barge looked very well ; their majesties went over the ship. There was a grand lunch. Before lunch we were all presented formally to the king and queen, when they gave us their photographs, with autographs. Those of the suite who did not already possess it were presented by King George, with his own hands, with the Order of the Saviour or Redeemer of Greece. They were given as follows : Duke of Sutherland Grand Cordon ~) Lord Suffield do. $ 1st Class. Sir B. Frere do. ) Lord Alfred Paget Grand Commander I , r . General Probyn, V.C., C.B. ... do. f 2nd UaSS ' Mr Knollys ... Commander 7 . Dr. Fayrer do. > Lord Aylesford Officer Lord C. Beresford do. i ., r Col. Williams do. Canon Duckworth do. Captain FitzGeorge Chevalier Mr Grey do. [ 5th Class. Mr. S. Hall do. We wore them at lunch. They were presented to us in the presence of the Prince of Wales, who called us in and introduced us to the king. The king shook hands most graciously, and said he hoped we would wear the order in memory of the occasion. The king and queen in giving us their photographs asked for ours in return. Admiral Drummond, the Minister, and the officers, bade fare- well to the Prince. At 4 p.m., under general salute from ships and shore, the Serapis steamed out of the Piraeus. The king and queen remained on board till late in the evening and some distance from shore. It was a beautifully clear, calm evening, when they left the ship in their barge to go on board the Royal yacht ; the Serapis and Osborne, tender, were brilliantly illuminated, making a most lovely spectacle. Before they left the ship the King and Queen and the Prince walked about the deck, and sat in the deck-house. I presented the king \\ith a copy of my Thanatophidia, with which he seemed much pleased. At about 10.30 p.m. they left the ship and returned to Athens, under a blaze of fireworks and rockets from the ships. We then put on full speed, with the ship's head directed for Port Said. The visit to Athens has been most successful and in- teresting. Mr. Mudd, the collector, got plants at Athens from the gardens; I also brought some from Tatoi. They have been sent on board the Hercules, flag-ship, to be sent off to Malta, and so home as soon as possible. They go to England in the care of a man who 20 came out in charge of some cows and pigs for the King of Greece. The Prince is in excellent health, and seems to be enjoying the voyage exceedingly. Thursday, 2ist October, at sea, en route for Port Said. Beautiful day, calm, bright, clear air, sun-rise lovely ; quite a Mediterranean sun-rise. We are in the midst of the Greek Islands. About noon off Crete; Mount Ida, 8,000 feet, in sight. I have several patients to-day with trifling ailments ; deranged digestive organs, but none actually laid up. The weather becomes warm as we go south, thermometer in my cabin at noon 74. We are getting shaken into our places, and arranging our things in the cabins. The men have a theatre on the quarter-deck after dinner Christy Minstrels Lieut. Smith- Dorien is the presiding genius ; they are very amusing and clever. At my suggestion orders were given to re- duce the quantity and quality of food; a lighter luncheon than heretofore no made dishes at 2 p.m., which is not to be regarded as a formal meal. Friday, 22nd October. Mediterranean ; Athens to Port Said. Fine weather. We are running with the wind, it consequently feels rather warm. We go about 12 or 13 knots. Thermometer in cabin at noon 74 to 75. All well. The temperature of the air and of the sea are nearly equal. I wrote to Sir W. Gull, Sir W. Jenner, and home, ready for post to-morrow at Port Said. We are going easily not to arrive too early in the morning. The ship is very comfortable when going 10 knots or so, but when at full speed the screw thumps and vi- brates considerably. James and Ibrahim are getting my cabin into order. The Prince's three English horses are well, they are taken out for a walk daily on the deck. Saturday, 2yd October. Port Said to Cairo at about 8 a.m. Ships of war saluting, yards manned, and dressed with flags. We all went on board the Osborne, to go through the Canal as far as Ismailia, at about 10 o'clock. General Stanton, the Consul - General at Cairo, the Khedive's three sons, and Nubar Pasha came on board salutes fired. Went through the Canal in the Osborne to Lake Timseh and Ismailia arriving at about 5 p.m. Landed in state, the station and railway decorated, guard of honour of Egyptian troops, and the Khedive's carriages and a special train waiting. The three princes and many high officers, Nubar Pasha, and others, accompanied us to Cairo : we took luggage with us for a week. The beautiful saloon carriages were gorgeously decorated refreshments of all kinds on the way. Arrived at Cairo at about 9 p.m. At the station a grand reception was prepared. Guards of honour of Egyptian troops, very fine-looking, well-dressed men with the Khedive himself and many high officials. We drove in the vice- regal carriages through Grand Cairo, splendidly illuminated, to the Gizereh Palace which has been placed at the Prince's disposal. The Khedive accompanied the Prince to the Gizereh Palace, where there was a formal introduction of the suite in the marble hall of the palace ; he then took his leave.. On the way to Cairo at Zag-a-Zig the Prince had a telegram from the Princess, in reply to one sent to her from Port Said. Gizereh is about four miles from Shepherd's hotel and the centre of Cairo : it is a beautiful palace on the Nile, splendidly furnished, more in French than in English style, 21 and surrounded by a lovely garden with tanks, kiosks and a fine collection of wild animals we heard the lions roaring during the night. The Khedive, who is a short, stout man, with a very clever face and very courteous manner, and who speaks French like a French- man, left us directly after we were introduced, Mustapha Pacha being placed in charge of us, and a very kind and obliging host he made, doing the honours right well. We had a very late but a very grand dinner, and then went to bed. We had splendid rooms, but found mosquito curtains necessary. In each bedroom there was a bottle of orgeat and sugar for those who might wish to drink it. I am sorry to say the smells were disagreeable; amid all the magnificence and Oriental splendour there was this detect. Sunday, October 2\th. Beautifully cool, fine morning. Mos- quitos troublesome during the night, as may be seen by my com- panions' faces, hands, &c. The Prince got a " black," floating about in the air, into his eye this morning : it gave him great pain for the moment, and made his eye very red. I everted the lid and removed it with a small instrument I carry with me on purpose for such operations he was imme- diately relieved. We had service in one of the large reception rooms at 10-30, Mr. Duckworth officiating. After breakfast we went into the smoking Divan, cushions and sofas all round the room. Atten- dants brought chibouques with Corani tobacco. We then went with the Prince to call on the Khedive at the city palace of Abdeen, where we were received in great state and formally presented to the Khedive. We called on the Princes also at their palaces. The visits were returned almost immediately. After lunch the Duke of S., Lord A. P. and I went -in one of the Viceregal carriages to Shepherd's hotel, the great Mosque, Citadel, Bazaar, and Joseph's Well we then drove home. Cairo is wonderfully improved and increased in size since I saw it in 1858. About Shepherd's hotel it is so altered that one could hardly recognize it to be the same place We returned home to dress for dinner with the Khedive. The dinner was excellent, quite European. Numbers of Pashas were there, all with the black frock single-breasted coat or uniform, with orders, and the fez. Drove home by beautiful starlight night. The Nile looked very picturesque as \ve crossed the bridge to Gizereh. Mr. Mudd is collecting some good plants here in the Botanic Gardens. Some of the servants are ailing from disorders of digestion. Monday, 2^th October. Cool night, beautiful morning ; sun very soon got hot ; walked about the gardens, which are well laid out; fountains, tanks, and kiosks, and a collection of wild animals several lions, leopards, an African elephant, ostriches, and a variety of gazelles, and birds in very pretty aviaries. At n a.m. an instal- lation of the Star of India was held in the great room, which was beautifully furnished with blue silk the colour of the Star of India ribbon and parquet floor. The purpose was to instal H.H. Prince Tewfic Pasha, the Khedive's eldest son and heir, as a Knight Grand Commander of the Order. As a member of the Order I was ap- pointed to act as secretary, and read the warrants from the Queen. Sir B. Frere, General Probyn, and Colonel Ellis brought the 'Prince up to H.R.H., who made a very good speech, as he invested him with the insignia. The Khedive and his suite of Pashas were present. The Prince wore a Field- Marshal's uniform, with the collar 22 and badge of the Order. The members of the suite were in full uniform, and were drawn up in two lines. The Prince addressed the Viceroy, saying that he felt great pleasure in conferring this honour on his son, and expressed the friendly sentiments of our Sovereign. To this the Khedive made a very good reply in French. The Prince of Wales next invested the youngprince, whomadeasuitableacknowledgment. Hethen signed the rules and conditions of the order, and the assembly broke up bands playing " God Save the Queen," and " God Bless the Prince of Wales." It is about ten years since the right of hereditary succes- sion was conceded by the Porte to Egypt, and this is regarded as an important recognition of it by England. After the installation we all went to lunch at General Stanton's in Cairo. He was in a house belonging to the Duke of Sutherland. After lunch the Prince and several of the party rode to the bazaar on donkeys and made purchases of slippers, embroidery, and a variety of ornaments. At 4.30 we drove out to the Pyramids in the Khedive's carriages, the road (nine miles long) is very good, on an embankment across the flat alluvium, it did not exist when I was here in 1858, and was made by the Khedive for the Empress Eugenie. There is water all over the country on either side of the road at present. The Viceroy has built a sort of kiosk and summer-house at the foot of the Pyramids, where we had dinner. After the dinner there was an Egyptian Nautch, very like an Indian one, but, if anything, rather more dull and stupid. It was too late for any exploration of the Pyramids, but they were illuminated, and it was very interesting to see these old monuments traced out in lines of fire. The view from Cairo must have been very effective. It was a grand sight to see the fire running up the sides of the Great Pyramid, till the whole stood out in a blaze of light. We drove home about 10 p.m. on a fine starlight, chilly night. I was tired, and went home to bed, the Prince and some of the suite went to the opera. I was not feeling well, one of my gastralgic attacks coming on. Tuesday, 2&th October. I passed a miserable night, in the greatest pain and sickness. Tormented also by mosquitos and bad smells. Took opium, inhaled chloroform. Towards the morning I got rather better, but was very weak and sick with the want of rest, pain, and effects of chloroform. At I p.m. the Khedive came to say good-bye to the Prince and presented the suite with the order of the Medjidie. To one or two he gave the Osmanie. 1 got the 3rd class Medjidie, the Commander's order. The Khedive made each a little speech in presenting the Order, asking us to wear it as a souvenir of our visit to Egypt, to which we replied at least I did briefly. He shook hands kindly with us, and said good-bye. At 2 the Prince went to the train, escorted by the Viceroy and attended by Pashas and a Guard of Honour, The train left at 2.45 p.m., General Stanton, Nubar Pasha, and other officers accompanying. At Zag-a-Zig refreshments were prepared. The train reached Suez at 7.30 a grand reception there. Illumination of the ships in harbour and of the station. We went on board the Serapis, which sailed at 8.30 p.m. Here I met Captain VVeston, an old Calcutta acquaintance, who holds an appointment in connection with the harbour of Suez, under the Egyptian Government as Captain of the Port. The harbour of Suez looked well with the ships illuminated. The weather fine, clear, starlight; quite cool at night. I am feeling better, but weak and unstrung by the pain of last night. Wednesday, 2~]th October. In the Gulf of Suez. Fresh northerly breeze. We are running I2| knots. The air bright ; a few clouds skirting the sides of the mountain ranges, of which Sinai, though not seen, forms a peak. At 8 a.m. we are near the land on the starboard side. Temperature in my cabin 76; on deck at 7 a.m., it was 75. The temperature of the sea at the same time was 745. It felt rather warm, though not oppressively so. I slept well, under a blanket. ii a.m. Leaving the Gulf of Suez; thermometer in cabin 75. Some of the suite are playing lawn tennis on the upper deck. The servants suffered rather severely at Cairo from mosquito bites. Gave them cooling lotions, ordered a light diet, less animal food, and less wine. 3 p.m. Red Sea. Temperature in cabin 78. Met the Peshaivur P. and O. steamer at about i p.m., and told her to report us all well at Suez. She manned yards. We manned our rigging; the band played " Home, Sweet Home." 6 p.m. The wind has fallen i.e., we have run out of it to nearly a dead calm. Temperature in cabin 79. I heard that high temperatures have been registered on the bridge to-day under a wooden roof and awning ; they no doubt give an over-estimate of the heat, as the funnel is near the bridge: Noon, air, 88; water, 79; light air from N.W. Temperature in stokehole, 126; temperature in sun's rays at noon, 126. There has been no great sense of oppressiveness from heat as yet. Thermometer in cabin at 6 p.m., and during the night, 80. Air very damp, and muggy. Lord C. B. has a slight attack of sun fever; put him in his cot, enjoined rest, quiet, and ice to the head. This soon relieved him, and by midnight he was better. The regular meals are now established at the hours previously mentioned. Thursday, 2&th October. In the Red Sea. Up on the bridge early ; fine sun-rise. Before daylight the Great Bear and the Southern Cross were both visible, the Cross very near the horizon. Very sultry atmosphere. Thermometer in cabin 81 to 82. Lord C. B. better but still feverish. Lord C, ailing slightly. All the rest well. Passed a collier at about 10 a.m. I p.m. We are running before a northerly wind at the rate of 12 knots; it makes it feel like a calm, and very sultry. Thermometer in cabin, 82; temperature of sea 80. Air very damp; little difference between wet and dry bulbs. Sun's rays at noon, 126; stokehole 126 to 130. The temperature varies a few degrees in different parts of the ship, according to the deck and the side of the ship on which taken. 82 may be considered the average to-day. 4 p.m. Light breeze. Hot on the bridge: 98. Shady side, port cabin, 82 ; sunny side, starboard, 84. Some small birds flying about the ship; the Prince shot them, and made them over to Mr. Bartlett to preserve. He also shot a kestrel and the ship was stopped to pick it up. During the stoppage we were sensible of a cool breeze blowing through the ship. Evening sultry ; thermometer 83 to 84 in cabin ; breeze dying away. Mr. S. H. not very well. Music on deck after dinner; the men sang. Mr. Duckworth also sang, and Prince Louis played accompaniments. Lord C. B. better. Friday, 2gth October. Red Sea. Direction of air from south, gradually increased to a fresh breeze, which was pleasant. Ther- mometer in cabin, 85 sea water, 84. S. H. better. The Prince looks pale and rather languid, but he eats and sleeps, and says he feels well. Delightful breeze sent down on to lower deck by wind- sails. Small birds flying about the ship. Began my first letter to the Queen about H.R.H.'s health. Wrote to Sir W. Jenner, and home, sending photographs of the King and Queen of Greece, and copy of the "' Stoa," an Athenian paper, describing the Prince's visit and the suite, in Greek. Carpenter removing my bed to the other side of the cabin, where I can have more air, and get out of the wet, which trickles down from the port. James and Ibrahim cleaning my guns. At 5 p.m. made the following observations on the larboard side at the large entrance port ; the air is reflected into the ship by a larboard wind-sail. Ship going 12\ knots; breeze S.E. Temperature of air 86 dry bulb ; 79 wet bulb ; temperature of sea water 86 , the same as the air. Sitting near the wind-sail, the air feels cool, almost chilly. It is very difficult to get reliable temperatures on board these ships, they vary everywhere. The average to-day is 86. Latitude at noon, 19 44' N.; longitude at noon, 39 3' E. Distance from Gib-ul-teer 296 miles, from Aden 585 miles. The specific gravity of the sea water is -high in the Red Sea, from the great amount of salt it contains, 1029. This is the hottest day we have had, but the head wind ventilates the ship. At noon the stokehole was 136. One or two cases of heat- exhaustion have occurred to-day among the stokers. Shewed my letter to the Queen to the Prince. Saturday, 30^ October. Red Sea. It is three weeks to-day since we left London. All last night the thermometer stood at 84 to 85 in my cabin, ports open. Southerly breeze freshening. Lord A. P.'s servant sent to sick bay to-day with heat-exhaustion, faint, and sick with pulse intermitting. I passed a restless night : too hot and stuffy to sleep. Prickly heat beginning with some of us. This morning there is a fresh southerly breeze and some sea. Ship pitching. The Osborne is on starboard quarter, pitching heavily. We are going 10^ knots. Ship well ventilated by the head wind, but the heat is increasing. Thermometer in my cabin at 10 a.m. 85 to 86; ports still open. Blacks from the funnel falling freely, and getting into peoples' eyes; I took one out of Lord C.'s eye. He was playing lawn tennis on the quarter deck at the time. We have awnings spread all over the decks. The Prince took some simple medicine last night. I had to represent the expediency of avoiding exposure to the rays of the sun when shooting birds, also in visiting the stokehole when at a temper- ature of 130. He is very well, but looks rather languid at times ; no wonder, in this heat ! He perspires very freely of late, sleeps well, and is in good spirits. The latitude at noon, 16 7' N. ; longitude at noon, 41 15'. Distance made good, 250 miles. There has been a cnrrent of 14 miles against us. Temperature of air, 85 dry; 83^ wet bulb in side port. The sea has changed from dark blue to green to-day. It is 80 miles across here from shore to shore. Captain Goldsmith told me the change in the colour of the sea is due to coral reefs. James, my servant, sea sick ; sent him to sick bay, where one or two of the others who have been ailing have been sent to be cooler, for it is very hot in the lower cabins. Took a " black " out of Lord A.'s eye. Gave Lord C. some medicine. S. Hall all right, Mr. A. Grey looks sallow and bilious. All are more or less affected by the heat, but I feel very well. Lord A. P.'s servant all right again to- day : in the cool sick bay. We passed the volcanic island of Gib-ul-teer at 6 p.m. A good deal of swell, and ship pitching rather heavily. This island is the crater of an extinct volcano, it is perfectly barren, and like a cinder about 900 feet high. In a bay on one side of it some of the vessels used to anchor during the Abyssinian War. We have been easing speed to do something to the packing of a cylinder. The temperature has varied very little from 86 all day. We are looking out to meet the homeward mail steamer. On deck, in the breeze, it is pleasant, but the head wind also drives the hot air from over the funnel aft, and it covers everything with blacks : apparently our coal is prolific of these nuisances. In the evening it blew quite a fresh breeze from the S.E. Did not sleep below; it was too hot. Thermometer on deck at night, 84^. This is one of the most trying results of the climate here, the temperature varies so little day and night. The air is damp, heavy and oppressive, and the sea water is as hot some- times hotter than the air ; it is impossible to keep cool. Fortunately, at this season, the temperature seldom exceeds 86 ; at other seasons, when with similar conditions the temperature rises above 90, it is dangerous to life. It is fortunate that outward-bound ships arriving about this part of the Red Sea may calculate on meeting a fresher southerly air, which blows through the ship and somewhat tempers the great heat. Sunday, 3\st October. Red Sea. Fresh S.E. wind all night; good deal of sea, and motion of ship. Ports shut on our deck. I slept on deck, in the deck-house, where the party generally adjourn after dinner for coffee and cheroots. It is cooler this morning dry bulb in port, 82 ; wet bulb, 75. Getting our letters ready to despatch from Aden. Service in the saloon without sermon. 3 p.m. Wind abated ; sea smooth. Thermometer in my cabin, 84. The air is certainly cooler and fresher; not so damp. Latitude at noon, 13 7'; longitude at noon, 43 5'; distance made good, 224 miles. Took a black out of Col. Ellis' eye. Passed through the Straits of Bab-el-Mandeb about 4 p.m. Soldiers came down to a point of Perim Island and saluted fired a jeu de jole, three volleys of musketry. Osborne gone on a-head to Aden to prepare them for our arrival, and stop the mail steamer from leaving before we get there. The water is smooth ; strong breeze blowing through the Straits. Just before leaving the Red Sea the thermometer in my cabin was 84. It seemed to become rather cooler and fresher directly we were out of the Red Sea. Thermometer 83 dry; 79 wet bulk. Fresh breeze, S.E. ; smooth water; ports open. I have written letters to the Queen, the Duchess of Sutherland, Miss Knollys, Lady Frere, Mrs. Probyn, Sir W. Jenner, Dr. C., and E. H., and others at home. We went on slowly to-day ; put the ship broadside to the wind to let the air blow through her, as she was very close. Gulf of Aden. It is still very hot; thermometer 84 to 86; but it is becoming cooler. We have been fortunate in getting through the Red Sea so well. It certainly has been rather trying, and a greater heat than I like the Prince to have been exposed to; but he has borne it well, and evidently has great toleration of heat. 26 Monday, ist November. Arrived at Aden at 6.30 this morning having left Suez at 10 p.m. on the 26th October. Great preparations made to receive the Prince : salutes from the land batteries ; ships decorated, vessels of war manning yards. General Schneider, the Governor and Commandant, and staff, Major Griffith, and Col. Penn, R.A., came on board at 9.30. After breakfast the Prince and suite landed in blue frock-coat uniform ; salutes were fired. The pier was gaily decorated with flags ; on landing an address from the residents and officials of Aden was read by a Parsee merchant ; the General, the civil and military authorities, some Arab chiefs, the Sultan of Lahej, and two relatives, were present. The Prince replied to the address. We got into carriages and drove to Cantonments, escorted by the Aden troop and camel men. The tanks were inspected. The troops also were looked at. Refreshments were provided at the mess of the 2nd Borderers. Visited the fortifications, and then drove back to the Resident's house, where Mrs. and Miss Schneider received the Prince. There was a nice breeze when we started, but as it died away it became very hot. Here, after lunch, there was a reception of military, naval, and civil inhabitants, of natives and Arab chiefs. The Sultan of Lahej was presented, and received a medal and ring from the Prince. He is a picturesque, dignified looking old gentleman, plainly dressed in a simple burnous. His attendants were more gorgeously attired than himself. The heat was intense ; the glare of the sun very great. I was amused and rather surprised at the head-dress of the officer com- manding the Resident's cavalry escort: a polished metal helmet. It looked suggestive of sun-stroke, but on remarking on it, he said on the contrary that it was very cool, and an excellent protection against the sun, and asked me to feel it. It was quite cool inside, though glittering in the bla/ing sunlight. It reflects the heat. The cavalry were natives not quite equal to our irregular cavalry in India, though turned out much in the same fashion. Aden must be a dreary place to live in, the heat dreadful, and nothing to mitigate it, the crater of an extinct volcano, with little or no vegetation ; the few plants that do grow in the scoria and lava rocks are very succulent, being intended to store up moisture in their cells to provide against the drought. The place is devoid of amuse- ments, is badly supplied with water, and has many other defects. It is surprising that the troops retain their health at all in such a dreary place, and in such intense heat. I wrote a memo, recommending the establishment of a theatre, racket court, and library for the garrison, and gave it to Sir B. Frere, who said he would make use of it. I also showed it to the Prince, but have not since heard if any- thing came of it. We remained at General Schneider's until about 5 p.m., when we embarked at another landing-place and went on board the Serapis. I went in the barge with the Prince. There was a dinner on board to the officials and chief residents at Aden. We steamed away for Bombay at 10.30 p.m. The P. and O. steamer had left with the English mails just before we sailed. I sent a telegram home to-day, telling of our safe arrival. Aden was brilliantly illuminated, and looked very well as we left the harbour. The temperature in the cabin to-day averaged 82. Air felt tolerably cool and fresh^ but the sun's rays very hot. I was anxious about the 2) long drive in the sun at this hot time of the day ; but the Prince bore it very well, and did not seem to mind it in the least. This is regarded as the beginning of the cool season at Aden indeed, it is never much cooler, and one may imagine what a furnace it must be in the hot weather. It almost never rains ; and now the tanks are quite empty. They are excavations natural and artificial completed with masonry in the rocks, and into these any rain that falls is drained. They are very clean and beautifully kept, of a dazzling white, enough to give one sun-stroke to look at, they glare so in the hot sun. Aden is supplied with drinking water chiefly by condensing sea water. There is a certain quantity of water brought in, I believe, from a distant source ; but it is brackish and insufficient in quantity. I urged in my memo, some expenditure to increase and extend the water supply, which, I learn, might be effected. Mr. Mudd collected some plants. We left with fine weather and a fresh breeze. Ther- mometer, 83 dry bulb ; 78 wet bulb. Tuesday, 2nd November, 1875. Indian Ocean. By noon to-day we have run 134 miles from Aden, and are in latitude 13 N. ; longi- tude, 47 21' E. We are 1,510 miles from Colaba Light, Bombay. Fine, clear morning and light breeze; ship going 12 or 13 knots. Ports all open ; air feels cooler and fresher. At 9 a.m. thermometer 82 dry, 74 wet; sea water 81. 3 p.m. : dry bulb, 80 ; wet bulb, 74. We stopped for a few minutes to correct something wrong with a bilge pump ! To-day we had a consultation Sir B. Frere, Ellis, Probyn, and myself about the Indian programme of the Prince's movements. I very forcibly pointed out what I had on a previous occasion urged that no arrangements should be made that might prolong the Prince's stay in India beyond the 1st of March, or at the latest, after the first week in March. And I dwelt on the doubt that existed in my mind as to the propriety of the contemplated expedition to the Annamallay Hills, as letters had reached Dr. Russell and myself containing reports of the danger that this would involve of exposing the Prince to malarious influences, and also of cholera, which it is reported is prevalent in that part of the country. I wrote from Port Said to the Governor of Madras about the questionable healthiness of the expedition to the Annamallay Hills, especially Michael's Valley. A telegram was also sent by Sir B. Frere, asking him to appoint an experienced medical officer to make personal inquiry and collect all reliable information on the sub- ject, and to meet me in Bombay for consultation. I am anxious about this, both on account of cholera and malarious fever, and doubt the expediency of it, knowing well that the lower ranges of these wooded hills are nearly al'ways the abode of malaria, and that however healthy the upper hills may be when reached, that the route to them is not free from danger ; nor can I believe that where the wild elephant and bison are found, that it is possible to say there is no risk of malaria. I also urged the necessity of restricting the amount of work H.R.H. is to be requested to do, and the absolute importance of considering any programme of proceedings now devised as of a provisional nature, and subject to alteration as need may arise ; and that it is desirable that this be impressed on the authorities in India from the outset. There was considerable discussion at this meeting and others, on the subject of the Prince's proceedings after landing at Bombay. At 4 p.m. we were obliged to stop the bilge pump again wrong ! The hand pumps were at work for some time, and I heard 28 subsequently that it caused some little anxiety. The Prince went down to see the engine-room. In the evening, for some not very obvious reason, the saloon and cabins felt very close again. The thermometer only 80. It is, however, cooler on deck than it was in the Red Sea. I slept in a cot hung up outside my cabin. Prickly heat now disappearing. Wednesday, yd November. Arabian Sea. At 9 a.m. ther- mometer 79 dry ; wet bulb, 74 to 75. Fine weather ; nearly calm. All well on board, with the exception of one or two slight fever cases from the heat of the Red Sea. One of the ship's boys is ill, and has a temperature of 104. We keep pretty early hours, as a general rule, but some of the party sat up late last night playing cards. The Prince is very well. The weather is cooler and fresher j on deck, in the breeze, it is pleasant. There was a most lovely sunset last evening. Some say it is not the true Southern Cross that we have yet seen, but, with all deference to them, I am sure it is, and we see it beautifully. Sir B Frere showed me a letter from Dr. Vandyke Carter (who also wrote to me), of Bombay, on the subject of establishing Leprosy Asylums in India, apropos of the Prince's visit, as a good oppor- tunity for conferring a benefit on this wretched class of sufferers, and urging more extended official inquiry. I wrote to Dr. Carter at Sir B. Frere's request, telling him to prepare a scheme for examination, which, if approved, he would submit to the Prince for recommendation to the Government of India. I wrote a minute for Sir B. F. on a medico-topographical report on Muscat, by Mr. Peters, a surgeon of the Bombay Service, who is now at Aden ; he is an old pupil of mine. In visiting the Cantonments at Aden, I was struck by the absence of all means of amusement for the troops such as might be so easily contrived at a small cost, and are so essential in that cheerless, barren, cinder-like place. No racket court; no station library; no sailing boats. These might be so easily provided for men and officers, and they would not only conduce to amusement and recreation, but to health. I am informed, and can readily believe it, that a protracted resi- dence at Aden is very depressing, morally and physically. Zymotic disease is rare, but nostalgia, nervous depression, and melancholia are frequent, especially among the native troops, and even scorbutic complaints are not unknown. The 2nd Bombay Grenadiers, N.I., have been stationed here for more than two years, the usual period of service there, and I am informed that they have suffered from depression of spirits, and that cases of suicide have occurred. The physical conditions necessary for normal life do not exist, and men ought not to be detained here too long. I have been engaged again to-day for some hours discussing the programme of proceedings in India and Ceylon, with the Prince, Sir B. Frere, Gen. Probyn, and Col. Ellis. I have repeated my most urgent advice that H.R.H. should be spared ceremonial as much as possible, as I know what a tax it is on health and strength in the climate we are going to. The prospect which had been anticipated of visiting Trincomalee for elephant shooting will not be realized for lack of time, as we must be in Calcutta by the 23rd December. Mysore and Sering- apatam are very doubtful, as cholera is reported to be spreading in that vicinity and along the South and West Coast of India. The Annamallay trip will be discussed in Bombay when we arrive there and get detailed and certain information from those who come from Madras to report on the subject. Latitude at noon, 14 12' N. ; longitude, 51 37'. Distance made good 260 miles. Colaba Light distant 1,250 miles. Tempera- ture of air, dry bulb, 78 to 80 ; wet bulb, 72 to 74 ; temperature of sea water, 75. Mr. Mudd reports himself ailing; I hear he ex- posed himself too much at Cairo. The climate is sensibly cooler, but it is still steamy and close below. The after part of the saloon registered 80 to 82. The hot air of the ship seems to drift aft and settle there ! Thursday, 41 h November, Arabian Sea. Beautiful weather; light head wind. Thermometer at 9 a.m. 79 dry; wet, 71. The after part of the saloon is two degrees hotter than the fore part. The climate is very pleasant now; I can sit in my cabin with comfort; the ports are open, the water smooth, and the air fresh. We reduced speed slightly last night. The Osborne keeps con- stantly on our quarter, is obliged to economise coal, and does not burn enough to keep up, though she really can go much faster when at full speed. We burn, I am told, about 60 tons a day. All our party well except Mr. Mudd, and he is doing well. The Prince practising pistol shooting from the bridge. Lord Carrington, Fitz George and Duckworth playing the piano and singing in the saloon. Latitude at noon, 15 14' N ; longitude at noon, 56 25' minutes E. ; distance made good, 286 miles ; current N.S., 15 miles ; Colaba Light, distant 964 miles. Cool, pleasant day; light breeze almost a-head ; the ship rolling a little in a heavy swell ; speed about 1 1 knots. Osborne rather lagging behind. I read a good deal daily and walk about the deck, but do not sit up late at night. Am writing letters ready for Bombay, looking up my medicine chests, and overhauling my clothes ready for landing. I should say that there is a capital dispensary on board in the sick bay, and a good sick bay man Duggan all provided by the kindness of my friends Watson and Wood, who do everything they can to assist me. I am also writing to some of my Calcutta friends. Theatre after dinner : they have a capital stage, drop scene, and scenery. Men and officers practising singing, some of the suite joining them. All are well. Thermometer in cabin 79 in the fore part of the ship, 78, 77 even at times! The air is pleasant, and does not feel damp now. We passed the homeward-bound mail steamer during the night. The Prince has slight rheumatic and muscular pains in the left shoulder from the draught of his port windsail at night, when asleep; and also, perhaps, from standing under the wind-sail when he went down into the engine-room. I applied a little belladonna embro- cation. Friday, $th November. Arabian Sea. It is warmer this morning : thermometer 80 to 82 dry bulb ; 74 to 76 wet bulb. The Prince's rheumatic pain better, but he did not like belladonna liniment. His valet kept it applied rather too long, and it was pungent, but the pain is better. Had another conversation with Sir B. Frere on the necessity of limiting and restricting the programme as much as possible, with a view to sparing the Prince over-fatigue, and of considering all that is laid down now as provisional, and liable to be altered if the Prince's health 3 should require it. Latitude, 16 21' N. ; longitude, 50 5 1 ' E. ; distance run 280 miles; from Colaba (Bombay), 684 miles. Current, N. 76 30' E. 17 miles. All well ! The theatrical performance last night was very good ; Fitz George, Duckworth, and several of the men sang very well ! The proscenium and drop scene are capital pictures of the Serapis and Osborne. Thermometer at noon in cabin, 82 wet bulb, 76 . Reading and writing letters home and to others. The heat is sensibly increasing, and it is not easy to say why, as we are in the middle of the Arabian Sea, far from land, and there is a pleasant N.E. breeze. Thermo- meter at 4 p.m., 82. After dinner the sailors got up a precession, a speech, and a song, commemorative of Guy Fawkes. The captain of the forecastle is a poet, and he wrote the song. Guy's effigy was brought on deck and committed to the deep, with a tar barrel in flames, but the flames went out, the raft having been capsized, and so, instead of blazing and exploding, as he ought to have done, he was quietly extinguished in the cold sea water. The Arabs of the stokers' crew had also a festivity and a speech, but what to celebrate no one could make out to imitate the sailors it is supposed ! Went on the bridge at 4 a.m. and got a beautiful view of the Southern Cross on the .starboard, while the Pole Star and the Great Bear were visible on the port beam, very near the horizon. There is not above a degree or two of difference between the day and night temperature; about 80 at 4 a.m. The Osborne is to fire up and precede us with letters for Bombay. I have written by her to Dr. Carter, to send me a memo, on the leprosy question, and to Dr. Hunter, asking him to come and see me. Thermometer at noon, 82 dry; wet bulb, 75. Saturday, 6th November, Arabian Sea. Latitude at noon, 17 22' N.; longitude at noon, 65 48' E. Distance run, 247 miles; Colaba, 437 miles. We stopped to-day, and the Osborne ran along- side at 12.30 to take letters, and push on for Bombay. The Prince and others practising pistol shooting on deck. Weather warm, but breeze pleasant. Probyn has two fox terriers on board ; one is ill in convulsions to-day, the effects of heat , ice and other remedies applied, but it died. There are two cases of fever, as before mentioned, among the crew; both date from the Red Sea. One, a lad of 17, is very ill, all the symptoms of typhoid, diarrhoea, spots, iliac tenderness, and gurgling present about the ninth day. Temperature 102 to 104. The other is doing well; his symptoms have been similar, wanting the spots. I had a conversation with the Prince to-day about the necessity for great care in avoiding exposure to heat and fatigue, and cautioned him against over exertion and excitement during the approaching visit to Bombay, where I know so much will be expected of him. H.R.H. and part of the suite dined in the ward-room to-day, so we had a small party aft. At 10 p.m. we all adjourned to the ward-room, and had music until midnight. Prince Louis played accompaniments to several songs. Our dinner party daily consists of H.R.H., the suite, and Captain Glyn, with four or five of the officers of the ship in turns, who are dis- tributed among the suite, the Prince generally placing one of the seniors near him. The Duke of Sutherland and Sir B. Frere always 31 near the head. Lord Suffield at the other end of the table. The others have no fixed places, though we generally find ourselves in the same seats ; mine is about the middle of the table, on the port side, generally next to Ellis. Sunday, jfh November, nearing Bombay. Beautiful morning, but warm ; thermometer 82, 83, and 84 in different parts of the ship. Pleasant N.E. wind blowing. Parade and inspection of crew by H.R.H., who, with his suite, went all over the ship. Marines paraded on quarter-deck. At the service Mr. Duckworth and Mr. York officiated. A hymn on approaching the end of our voyage, composed by Mr. York, was sung. The sacrament was administered on the main deck. All our party are well. The two fever cases are much as they were. The latitude at noon, 18 18' N.; longitude, 69 57' E. Distant from Colaba, 165 miles; current S. 73' W., 7 miles. It gets warmer as we near Bom- bay : 84 in my cabin at 7 a.m. Temperature by wet bulb, 76 8 of dryness. Preparing for landing at Bombay, and some things to send to Bey pore, if -we should make that expedition. We expect to see Colaba Light at I a.m. Monday, 8th November. Off Bombay harbour, Colaba, and its lighthouse. The picturesque hills, harbour, and fleet at anchor in the distance, all visible. The ships began to salute early, and the effect was curious. I noticed that we saw the flash of the fourth gun before we heard the report of the first. There is a large fleet of ships-of- war at anchor to do honour to the Prince's arrival. We are at anchor several miles off. Fine, bright morning, but sun getting very hot. The scene is lively with boats and vessels with picturesque lateen sails, and colours flying. The Osborne is not far from us. Admirals Macdonald and Rowley Lambert came on board : the former commands the station, and the latter the Flying Squadron ; they are both old acquaintances, but I have not seen them since they were com- manders, 20 and 25 years ago ! The Governor, Sir P. Woodhouse, came off with his staff, in full dress. It felt very uncomfortable in full uniform, buttoned up, with thermometer at 84, and the air damp. We entered the harbour, the ships of the squadron saluting, with yards and sides manned, and decorated with flags. The merchant ships in harbour were also dressed. The Serapis anchored, and we landed in state in the steam barges of the Serapis and Osborne at 4 p.m. at the Dockyard Pier. Crowds of people present. Here an address was read. The day had been spent on board in receiving visitors and making arrangements. The Viceroy (Lord Northbrook), the Commander-in-Chief and his staff, the members of Council, and other magnates; a number of naval officers and visitors had been on board. The ships in Bombay harbour are the Undaunted, Briton, Daphne, Philomel, Nimble, of the East Indian Squadron. The Narcissus, Newcastle, Raleigh, Doris, Topaze, Immortalite, of the Flying Squadron ; and two ironclads Abyssinia and Magdala. The saluting of all these ships and of the forts made a considerable noise, and burned no little powder. The pier and landing-place at the Dockyard were decorated with flags and evergreens, and there the authorities received the Prince, whilst an address by the municipality was read. On each side, under the great shed, were rows of people, and close to the ropes stood many native princes and chiefs, gorgeously dressed. The Dockyard landing-place was adorned with coloured cloths, evergreens, and appropriate inscriptions of welcome in English and the native languages. Carriages were in waiting, and a procession was formed to go through the town to the Government House at Parell. The streets were beautifully decorated, as also every window and balcony. There were triumphal arches, and the houses, windows, balconies, and roofs were thronged with people, who were most orderly. The streets were lined with troops and police, and admirable order was kept. There were escorts of the Body Guard and of the 3rd Hussars, from Mhow. The excite- ment and enthusiasm were intense, and the people cheered loudly, especially the Parsees. The crowd consisted very largely of women, and the Parsee ladies looked very well in their pretty, picturesque, brilliantly coloured costumes, so different to crowds on the Bengal side, where few, if any, women are seen. 200,000 persons are said to have come into Bombay to see the Prince. On arriving at Parell we were shown our quarters : some in the Government House, others in tents in the compound, where a camp is formed ; the tents are raised from the damp ground on platforms. We were now joined by General Sam. Brown, C.B., V.C., who is to take charge of our camp. Major Henderson, from Cashmere, the political officer, Major Bradford, in charge of the police, and Majors B. Williams and Sartorius, C.M.G., V.C., will assist General Brown with the camp ; and also Mr. Hardinge, assistant apothecary, with a compounder, who have been sent to join our camp, and to be my assistants. My old friend, Dr. Hunter, Principal of the Medical College, and Dr. Vandyk Carter came to see me. The day has been intensely hot, and the heat in the tents is very great above 94 ; it is most oppressive and fatiguing, especially with all the bustle and excitement of the day, in full dress uniform, too ! A big dinner at Parell, at which we were all present. Met some old friends. There was a levee also in the evening. Sir Salar Jung and other Hyderabad nobles received. General holiday pro- claimed at Bombay. I am waiting for reports from Madras about cholera, fever, &c. Tuesday, gth November, Bombay. I was tired, and slept pretty well : wonderfully few mosquitoes, and cool night. Fresh fee ing in the early morning air. Had chota-hazari under a tree outside my tent. The day soon became very hot; I had no idea Bombay would be so hot at this time of the year. Ellis is ailing knocked up by heat and work. I advised him to rest to-day, and neither to attend cere- monies, nor to go out in the heat, and prescribed medicine. The whole day occupied in receiving visits from native chiefs. This being H.R.H.'s birthday, we offered our congratulations, and Lord Suffield presented him, on behalf of the suite, with a large turquoise, procured at Cairo, as a birthday gift. The Prince graciously accepted it. Salutes were fired in honour of the day. In the afternoon the Prince, with the suite, drove to the Apollo bunder, went off in the steam launches and visited the fleet; then went on board the Serapis, where he cut his birthday cake. Salutes fired ; yards manned throughout the fleet. On landing, drove through the city from Mazagon. The display of fireworks from the men-of- war and the illumination of the city and fleet were most beautiful. There were many curious devices and quaint loyal inscriptions, such as 33 "Tell Mamma we are Happy !" On landing at the Mazagon pier, I met and had a conversation with Lord Northbrook, who was most kind, and expressed his dislike to, and dread of, the Prince's visiting the west coast, on account of cholera and fever. He said he quite concurred in the objection, which he knew I had made to it, and said if at any time I wanted support or advice I might write to him direct. He was waiting to receive the Prince, who had not yet landed. Col. Michael has arrived from Madras ; he is to conduct the Prince and partv to Beypore, and to the shooting grounds in Michael's Valley, and the Annamallay Hills; he is much disappointed at the proposed alteration in the programme, and is very positive there is no risk of malarious fever. There have been conferences with the Prince, Sir B. Frere, Col. Michael, and other members of the suite on the sub- ject. There is not perfect unison of opinion, but / am certain the risk is one the Prince should not be allowed to incur, and I shall re- sist it; I feel it is clearly my duty to do so, as the responsibility of his health and safety, in this respect, rests with me. Telegrams and reports are coming in from Beypore and other stations in that direc- tion ; all show that cholera is epidemic and active there, though per- haps, not so severe in some stations as in others. The result is, that for the present the visit to Beypore is deferred. I feel certain that it will not be safe, within any reasonable time, for the Prince to go there. Much disappointment is caused, but it cannot be helped. It is clearly my first duty to avoid any undue risk ; and this would be a serious one. My position is one of great responsibility ; I am determined to do what is right. My duty imperatively requires me to do all I can to prevent this expedition, which, I am convinced, would be fraught with danger. To expose a large party of our com- rades from Europe, and the escort, to such a risk would be infatua- tion, for though the Prince might escape, some of the suite might not, and if the camp followers suffered, as they probably would, alarm would be caused at home by telegrams and everything is telegraphed. I am quite satisfied as to the course that ought to be taken, but should be glad if I thought all my companions could see it in the same light. The question is this : There is always cholera in India ! We knew this before we started. Are we to be turned back from a route formally laid down, and cause so much disappointment to so many ? It is of the greatest importance politically that no change should be made, if it can be avoided. Is there sufficient reason tor doing so ? Answer : I asked you to let all programmes be provisional, and subject to alteration. I warned you that there were evil reports of cholera and fever on the track you were arranging to follow. I know the importance of the Prince visiting all these places, and am very loth to interfere or to spoil his sport, which I should enjoy as much as anyone; or to disappoint those who have arranged for the shooting, and are expecting the Prince. I tell you that this is not ordinary sporadic cholera; it is an epidemic, subtle and deadly, particularly in those and neighbouring districts, and therefore it is not safe for any one especially for new arrivals and susceptible Europeans like the Prince and suite. Moreover, if my own common sense did not assure me of the necessity of urging this, I am under the most positive injunctions from the Queen to protect the Prince from any undue risk. Further, as to cholera and fever, and despite assurances to the con- trary, I know quite enough of India to be aware that these hill ranges and jungles are never quite free from malaria, and I have information 34 that they are more dangerous than is supposed. However, for the present the Beypore and Coimbatore trip is deferred. We await further reports, and shall have further councils. The chiefs who were received to-day were all brought in separately by members of the suite: Major Henderson acting as Interpreter, the Duke of S., Sir B. F., and the other members of the suite sitting in Durbar, with the Prince. The Guikowar of Baroda ; Maharajah of Mysore; a deputation from the Nizam (a sickly boy, not well enough to come in person) represented by Sir Salar Jung and other chiefs; Maharajah of Oodeypore ; Maharajah of Kutch; the Rajah of Kholapore. With each there were a certain number of chiefs, and the political officers attached to their courts. The salutes were according to their rank, from 17, 19, to 21 guns. Next came a number of chiefs of lower rank ; salutes varying ac- cordingly ; 9 guns, I think, the average number fired. They all pre- sented their nuzzurs; received attar-pan and some kind words from the Prince. Dinner at Government House, Parell. The heat in the tents during the day is very great. Ellis is better. Considerable pressure is put on to get the Prince to undertake the Annamallay trip, which, though deferred is not abandoned ; further reports are awaited, but I know that however much better the telegrams may appear, cholera is abroad in the epidemic form, and therefore that it is not right to go. The Prince's reception is most enthusiastic; the natives appear delighted, and the native chiefs are evidently charmed with his gracious manner. Bombay is very full of persons who have come from the districts on their own account, and also the followers of the native chiefs. Wednesday, loth November, 1876. To-day the Prince returned the visits of the Guikowar, Kholapore, and several of the minor chiefs, and afterwards held a levee at the Secretariat Buildings in Bombay ; all the high officials of Government, civil and military, attended. There was a great crush, and the heat was intense ; a guard of honour of the 2nd Queen's and escort of Hussars in attendance. H.R.H. wore the uniform of the loth Hussars; a Royal salute was fired. A number of Parsees and native gentlemen, as well as Europeans, attended the levee. After the levee the Prince went to a children's fete on the plain near the Secretariat. There were present : Christians 800 GlRLS 1 Parsees 1,500 UIRLS 1 Mohammedans 100 Hindoos 650 3,050 /^Christians 1*700 R \ Parsees 1,500 y Mahommedans 1,000 (^Hindoos 3,000 7,200 Total 10,250 Indeed, it was said there were more nearly 12,000 on the ground. At 4 p.m. cake, sweetmeats, &c., &c., were given to them. The crowd of children, and the flags, banners, &c., made a very picturesque and interesting show. The Maratta girls sang hymns in Maratta and Guzerattee in praise of the Prince. A pretty young Parsee girl 35 put wreaths of flowers round H.R.H.'s and Sir P. Woodhouse's necks ; there was much cheering, and everyone seemed pleased. After the fete, we returned to Parell ; the streets crowded and decorated as before. There was a dinner party at Government House; 82 persons present, chiefly officials and their wives. After dinner we all went to a grand ball at the Byculla Club, where the Prince danced with several ladies. The dancing was kept up to a late hour ; there was a magnificent supper, and the rooms were beautifully decorated with flowers, evergreens, and devices of various kinds. I did not remain very late. The Viceroy, Lord Northbrook, has left for Rajpootana. I had another conversation with him before he left. I should have noticed that the Prince gave very handsome pre- sents to the native chiefs, and received presents in return. I have seen some friends : Dr. and Mrs. Hunter, Dr. Beatson, from Nagpore, and Captain and Mrs. John Clarke, who have come from Hydrabad with Sir Salar Jung and the Nizam's deputations. I also met Dr. Thorn, the Surgeon-General, Dr. Hewlett, coroner of Bombay, and others. The weather keeps very hot, 88 to 94 in the tents ; but the nights are tolerably cool. The illumination of the city was very fine this evening. The telegraphic reports of cholera from south and west are numerous, and sometimes contradictory, but all indicate its continued presence. The Prince's movements still remain unsettled. All my party are well. Thursday, nth November. The Duke of Sutherland, Lord A. Paget and I went this morning with Dr. Hewlett to see the city, the bazaar, the Crawford vegetable and fish markets, both wonderfully clean and orderly. We went also to see the Tower of Silence, or Dokmas, where the Parsees dispose of their dead. The bodies are exposed on a grating and are devoured by vultures and kites. We were taken all over this part of Malabar Hill by a Parsee priest. We then drove to the Hindoo burning-place which is near the sea shore, in an enclosure, and there saw some bodies undergoing crema- tion. I returned just in time to put on full dress and accompany the Prince to the University, where an address was read, at 1.30 p.m., by Mr. Gibbs, the Vice-Chancellor, to which the Prince replied. The senate wore academic robes. There was the usual guard of honour and royal salutes were fired. A sailors' fete was given to the men of the fleet on the Esplanade, in tents. The Prince went to see it, and was loudly cheered by the men, when he made them a speech. He had also returned some visits of native chiefs in the morning ; in the afternoon he saw a number of the minor chiefs at the Secretariat. This he was obliged to do in this way, as it was impossible for him to see them all separately ; at the Secretariat each was introduced, and received a visit in his turn ; the usual presents and compli- ments were exchanged, and very wearying work it was in the great heat. The Prince next proceeded to the new wet dock, to lay the foundation stone with Masonic honours. There was a large native and European attendance ; the Masons in the Prince's suite attended in Masonic costume. I was one. On returning to Parell, the Prince paid some return visits to native chiefs. In the evening there was a Masonic ball at the Town Hall, which he did not attend. It had been a day of great exertion ; if H.R.H. were not very strong, it must have knocked him up. 36 Friday, 12th November. Went with the Duke of Sutherland, Lord A. Paget and Dr. Hewlett to see the Jamsetjee Jheejheebhoy Hospital and Grant Medical College. Dr. Hunter and the professors met us there, and we went over the hospital and school. Dr. Cook drove me back to Parell, where I had another conversation with Sir B. F. on the subject of the next move. Reports from Madras all speak of cholera. I again expressed my views in very decided terms. The day very hot, and the tents oppressive. All keep well, though feeling the heat. Lunch daily at about 2 p.m. Numbers of Portuguese and native servants have been brought for the suite to select from. Having an English and native servant, I require none. Horses have also been bought for the suite; they are under the care of Major Williams. Major Sartorius manages the native servants, who are to be dressed in scarlet, and gold, with the Prince's plumes. At 4.30 p m. we all embarked in the May Frere, a government steamer, and went to Elephanta to a pic-nic given to the Prince by Bombay. The island and the caves were beautifully illuminated, and a grand banquet was given in the great cave, and rock temple ; the carved figures of Vishnu and other idols in the rock, with the massive pillars looked grotesque in the illumination, and in wonderful contrast to the tables laid out for supper. After dark there was a display of fire-works, blue lights, and a bonfire on the island ; and as we re- turned at dark, the fleet, the P. and O. steamers, and the merchant ships were brilliantly illuminated, and made the most wonderful display of fire-works I suppose ever seen. The men-of-war looked magnificent as we steamed slowly past them ; every yard and rope sketched out in lines of fire, with constant displays of changing coloured lights ; the men manning yards, and cheering vociferously as we passed. Each ship sent up magnificent bouquets of fire-works in showers of light. It was the most gorgeous spectacle I have ever seen. Towards the end of our passage through the fleet I had a narrow escape : a rocket fired from the fore-rigging of our little steamer, instead of going up in the air, took a horizontal flight and passed close to my head so close as to touch my hair. It made a frightful noise and glare of heat and light, but did not hurt me. I was standing talking to one or two men in the forecastle, where I had gone to get a better view of the ships ahead. The cause of the accident was that the rockets had been fired from a loop of cord, or something of the kind, in the rigging, instead of from a tube, and turning as it flew, took this dangerous course. Fortunately it touched no one, and fell into the sea ahead of the steamer. We soon after this steamed back among the fleet, greeted with fresh displays of magnificent fireworks, blue and other coloured lights, and illuminations on the ships-of-war ; as a pyrotechnic display it was unequalled for beauty and grandeur by anything I have ever seen. We landed at II p.m., and drove through the streets, still crowded and illuminated. It had been a most successful pic-nic. The ships-of-war as we passed played " God Save the Queen" and "God Bless the Prince of Wales;" the marines all drawn up on deck, and the yards manned by sailors holding burning blue, green, yellow, and red lights. The two Admirals, as well as the Governor and other high officials, were with the Prince on board the May Frere. We hear to-day that the poor boy, J. Parker, who was ill with fever on board the Sera is, died the day before yesterday. He was 37 better at one time, but some pulmonary complication supervened, and he sank. It was late when we got back to Parell, and we were tired with the day's exertions. The weather is very hot ; temperature in shade, from 84 to 88 ; in the tents it rises to over 90. The reports to-day by telegraph from the south are unsatisfactory : cholera is epidemic all over the south of India. I wish all my companions saw the full import of this, as regards the Prince's movements. The Prince seems anxious to do that which is deemed most desirable. Saturday, i^th November. Our proceedings after leaving Bombay are still uncertain. The reports show that cholera is active in the Madras Presidency and in the stations or districts through which we must pass if we adhere to the intended route. I receive these re- ports frequently from the Governor of Madras as well as from local authorities. I have had a conference with Sir B. F. again this morn- ing on the subject. The heat is great dry bulb, in shade, 85 to 86; wet bulb, 80. The tents during the day are insufferable; fortunately the Prince, Sir B. F., P., E., and one or two others are in the house, where it is not quite so hot. We left Bombay at 11.30 in a special train for Poona. The Governor and his suite were with the Prince. The baggage had preceded us in an earlier train. James goes with me; Ibrahim looks after that which is left behind. I had a compartment with Captain Glyn. The day was fine, but very hot in the plains ; it got cooler as we ascended the Ghauts. The scenery of the Bore Ghaut is very bold and picturesque; the ascent nearly 2,000 feet. In the station where we stopped for a few minutes, betore commencing the ascent, the thermometer in the shade stood at 92. The air also feels very damp and oppressive; in fact, I never remember to have felt such disagreeable heat anywhere in India as we have experienced since we came to Bombay. All seem to bear it pretty well ; no one better than the Prince. The hills of this range are very peculiar in formation and colouring. The sides are clothed with trees, but the general colour is of a red or ochre tint. They are truncated with table- like summits, and are abruptly scarped. The rail winds up steep and difficult inclines : in many places one looks down a sheer precipice of hundreds of feet. The arrangements for ensuring the safety of the trains are, I believe, very perfect, and no accidents have occurred, for some time, at all events. As we neared the summit, at a slow pace, the air felt fresher and cooler ; at the top of the incline we stopped for refreshment at a station. We then went on more rapidly and reached Kirkee at about 5.30. Sir C. Staveley, the Commander-in-Chief, Lord Mark Kerr, the General commanding this division, their staffs, and a crowd of ladies, gentlemen, and people received the Prince at the station, which was decorated with flags and evergreens. Carriages were in waiting, and we drove off rapidly in procession, escorted by cavalry, under salutes and " God Save the Queen " and '* God Bless the Prince of Wales," to the Government House. In passing through the city, an address was read to the Prince by a gentleman, who, I am informed, is called the Honourable Khan Bahadoor Pudomjee Prestonjee. To this the Prince made a reply, and the procession moved on to Gunesh-Khind. The town was decorated with triumphal arches, and salutes were fired. Poona is a large military station, and a favourite one, for being nearly 2,000 feet above the sea it is cooler than Bombay. The governor has a residence here, a large stone house, which cost much money. It was built during Sir D 38 B. Frere's Governorship of Bombay. The servants complain that, owing to some mistake, they have had short allowance of food to-day ! Poona is dryer and cooler than Bombay ; it is hot in the day, but cool at night ; the currents of air through open doors and windows feel cold. There was a dinner party, at which all the high officials were present. After dinner there was a dance. The gardens of Gunesh-Khind are well laid out, and the hall and entrance from the garden, are prettily decorated. It was a lovely moonlight night, and people walked about till late. Dancing, in the large room. I have a bedroom in one of the towers of the house. Sunday,\\th November, Poona. Theair is bright, dry, andalmost keen, but the sun is hot. Mr. Duckworth read service in the drawing- room. Much discussion about our future movements ; cholera reports come in rapidly, and are, in my judgment, all unfavourable, for they show its epidemic prevalence. I wrote my second letter to the Queen to-day, also home; to Lady A. P., Lady F., Mrs. P., and to other friends; I remained in the house great part of the day writing. Mr. Kannie, who has accompanied us so far, leaves us to return by the next mail for England to-morrow. It felt close in the evening, but the sky was clear and the moonlight beautiful. Had a long talk with Colonel Michael to-day about his valley and the risk of fever and cholera. He is positive about the absence of risk from malaria, though not from cholera. He has telegraphic reports from Coimbatore and other places, assuring healthiness, as far as fever is concerned. All this makes it difficult for me to keep the risks, of which I am well assured, impressed on some of my party ; but I am convinced of what is right, and must adhere to it. New projects are constantly suggested, all tending in the same direction : one is to visit the Gairsoppa Valley, near Beypore, and there make enquiry, and go on if the state of the country as to cholera will admit of it. I oppose this, and the trip to Beypore is in abeyance, though not yet abandoned finally. Various plans are, for the same reason, discussed as to what the Prince is to do if the Beypore trip is abandoned. One is to go to Madras direct by sea, or across by rail to Ceylon ; or to some other part of India ; nothing yet decided. My business is only with sanitary arrangements, and I can offer no objection to any plan that does not incur undue risk to the Prince's health. It is unfortunate, but this is certainly a cholera year in India. Monday, i$th November, Poona. Cool night ; fresh morning, the Prince and some of the suite went at 5 a.m. to visit Parbutti hill and Temple. Here he had his first ride on an elephant, and saw the remains of the Peshwa's Palace. I did not go, as I had letters to write. The town of Poona was illuminated last night. After lunch, at about 4 p.m., the Prince held a review of the troops under Sir C. Staveley and I .ord Mark Kerr. The suite, in full uniform, all rode with the Prince. I was mounted on a tall waler, rather like a camelopard, very rough, with high action. We drove to the parade, and there mounted. Whilst going round the troops C. Beresford's horse became restive, reared, and fell over on him. I dismounted and picked him up. He was badly bruised about the hip ; we got him into a doolie, took him to one of the carriages, and I drove home with him and got him put to bed in his tent. He was severely bruised, but no bones broken ; it appears he had another fall in the morning 39 when goingr to Parbutti. His Chinese servant, Tom Fatt, and Gunesh set to work, under Mr. Harding's directions, to foment the bruises, and towards evening he was much easier. Of course, I did not see the end of the review ; some one picked up my charger and brought him home. The Prince and some of the suite dined with Sir C. Staveley. After dinner we went to the train at Kirkee, and left for Bombay at 12.30. Beresford was carried to the train in a doolie, and went in the carriage with me. Telegrams have come to-day to say that cholera has broken out in Colonel Michael's camp; it is, therefore, now pretty apparent that we cannot go on that shooting expedition. But our route is not yet determined. We await telegrams from Ceylon, about going there earlier than was originally contemplated in the programme. The increase of heat and damp very noticeable on returning to Bombay. I am glad to say all are in good health. We resume our old quarters at Parell. Tuesday, i6th November, Parell. We arrived here early in the morning. Thermometer in tent early morning, 78; at mid-day, 96 to 98 ; the normal shade temperature being 86 to 88, which in a damp atmosphere is very hot. C. B. better, able to walk to lunch. Some of the party came down the ghat in trollies ; I preferred the carriage. At another conference it was decided not to go to Beypore on the shooting expedition. I stated my views plainly to the Prince, Sir B. F., P. E. and K. There is still uncertainty about the expediency of giving up the Beypore trip. It is naturally thought a serious matter to disappoint so many, but cholera is spreading; it is epidemic throughout the Madras Presidency. This is just the kind of risk that the Prince ought not to be subjected to, and I am quite clear that it is my duty to prevent it, if I can. I hope my remonstrances will have effect. I am responsible for the Prince's health, and don't mind what people say or think, when I know that I am acting for the best. I think they are beginning to see that it is better for H.R.H. not to go. The papers are cavilling at the decision ! As the servants and baggage were on their way to the station at Kirkee, a carriage was upset, and Macalister, the Duke's piper, got a severe bruise of the leg. This was attended to, but it caused him considerable pain ; some of the other servants were slightly injured. I am to have another horse, a strong active grey Arab, bought from an officer of the Hussars. At 4 p.m. after lunch, which was preceded by another discussion of our future proceedings and the health question, we drove in state to the Secretariat, where we mounted our horses, and in full uniform, accompanied the Prince to the parade ground, where, H.R.H. presented new colours to the Marine Battalion, the 2ist Regiment, B.N.I.; the Commander-in-Chief, Governor, and Admiral, were present. The Prince made an appropriate speech. There were many native chiefs present, the Guikowar, Aga Khan, and others. There also were some Royal Artillery, 3rd Hussars, 2oth N.I., 26th N.I., ist Lancers (Poonah Horse). The presentation of colours to a regiment is a very pretty and rather imposing sight; the Prince did it very gracefully, and spoke well, too. The address from the city of Bombay was presented in a beautiful gold casket, by a deputation headed by Mr. Dosabhoy Framjee, the chairman. A dinner party at Parell, and after it a state ball. The room was much crowded, and the heat intense. The Prince seemed to enjoy it ; he danced a good deal. I met several friends. The music and dancing went on till a very late or early hour. Alister, and Potter the other sufferer by the upset, are doing well. The question of a visit to Baroda, is now under consideration as an alternative to that, to the Annamallays. I have no objection to offer on the score of health, for, as far as I can learn, it is now healthy ; tho' cholera has been there early in the year. The recent events at Baroda, I imagine, render the question of a visit from H.R.H. the subject for some previous consideration. There is no improvement in the news from the south. Since cholera appeared in Michael's camp, less is said about going there. The shooting in Michael's valley is said to be good bison, sambur, elephant and ibex very tempting, but cholera and malaria forbid ! I believe the Prince takes the old colours of the 2ist B.N.I, home; and received them with that intent from Col. Carnegy. Wednesday, ijth November, Bombay. To-day, after lunch, the Prince and some of the suite drove to Bombay to visit places of interest. They went to the Towers of Silence, on Comballa Hill. Sir J. Jheejheeboy and other influential Parsees met them there, and a model of the Tower was presented, showing the interior, and how the dead are disposed of. Thence he went to the Walkeshur Temple, Government House at Malabar Point, -and Back Bay; next to the Hindoo Cremation Ground, where some bodies were burning on the pile. The Prince then went over the Crawford Markets, and in many places the crowd was great, and pressed on him, but they were most civil, and evidently delighted to see him, showingthe greatest enthusiasm in their reception. Two little girls, daughters of the superintendent, presented the Prince and Sir B. F. with garlands of flowers on leaving the market. Thence to the wretched building that does duty for a European hospital ; all its defects were pointed out by Dr. Thorn, Surgeon-General, Dr. Joynt, and others; I also had something to say on the subject. The Prince expressed his opinion decidedly in favour of a new hospital. Next went to the Dockyard and embarked in steam barges for the Serapis, where a dinner party was given to the Governor, Admirals, and the high officials of Bombay, Being after sunset, no salute was fired. There were 45 fuests. The Governor, Sir C. Staveley, Sir M. Westropp, Chief ustice, the admiral, the judges, secretaries, military and civil officers, and others. Captain Durrant, of the Osbome, is now in attendance as one of the suite, also Prince Louis of Battenburg, who is a Sub-Lieutenant of the Serapis. The Prince complimented Mr. Souter, of the police, on his excellent arrangements, and presented him with a scarf pin : the Prince's plume set in diamonds. It is decided now that we go with a limited party to Baroda. Sir R. Meade, the Resident, is here, and apparently there is no - objection to the Prince paying the Guikowar a visit. The shooting trip to Michael's Valley, Coimbatore, and the further extension of the expedition to Bangalore, Seringapatam, and the Nelgheries is for the present postponed. We go to Baroda, and after 41 that to Ceylon, calling at Beypore, Goa perhaps Travancore on the way. The Government of Ceylon is informed that the Prince will be there rather sooner than was at first anticipated. I continue to receive unfavourable reports of the health of the Madras Presidency. Thursday, iSth November, on board Serapis, Bombay Harbour. It is very hot 86 in my cabin ; but the health of my party, and also of the Serapis crew is good. We slept on board last night. Thermometer fell during the night to 79, but it is steamy and oppres- sive to-day. C. Beresford is better ; he telegraphed to his mother, to tell her so. Our baggage leaves for Baroda at n a.m. To-day I received a telegram in cypher from General Ponsonbyfrom the Queen. Knollys had the key, and deciphered it. I replied immediately that all were well; that the trip to Beypore and the Annamallays had been put off; that we were going to Baroda, which is healthy ; and that the Prince would have less work in future, I hoped. I had a confer- ence with Dr. Cunningham, Sanitary Commissioner, who also saw H.R.H. and Sir B. F., and advised that the Annamallay, and perhaps the Madras trip should be given up on account of cholera, and gave me a memo, on the subject. All the afternoon I was confined to my cabin with a return of the gastric pain like that I had at Cairo. Dr. Watson was very kind, and I got better towards evening. C. B. had a return of pain, and is unable to go to Baroda. I leave him in Watson's care. After dinner, at 9 p.m., we landed, and started by train for Baroda at 9.30. We had saloon carriages (Russell, Ellis and I had a com- partment). We travelled during the night ; I slept pretty well. Friday, igth November, Baroda. We reached Baroda at 8 a.m. The night was pleasant ; climate becomes cooler as we go north. There were great preparations at the station. The boy Guikowar and his minister, Sir Madava Rao, were there ; also a detachment of the 83rd Regiment. Salutes were fired, and " God Save the Queen " and "God Bless the Prince of Wales" played. We found a number of elephants gorgeously caparisoned, and painted blue, ochre, and a variety of colours, some fine tuskers among them, and with howdahs silver, gold and carved of all kinds waiting; and guards of honour and escorts of cavalry. We mounted the elephants and pro- ceeded to our camp at the Residency formerly occupied by Outram, and the same where an attempt was made to poison Col. Phayre. The road passed partly through the city, and was gaily decorated with triumphal arches, flags, devices, &c., and crowded with natives, who seemed intensely interested in the sight. The Prince and the young Guikowar rode on a very fine elephant, magnificently caparisoned and painted. The suite followed on other elephants. Sir R. Meade and Mr. Melville (the new Resident) accompanied him to the Residency. The notice of H.R.H.'s visit to Baroda has been so short that there has not been much time for preparation ; nevertheless, they have done wonderfully well, and the place presents a very festive appearance. The decorations are made chiefly of plantain trees and bamboos formed into arches. The morning delightful ; it is now the cold season, and much cooler than Bombay. The air is fresh and dry, but as the day ad- vances the sun is very hot. We are lodged at the Residency some in the house, some in tents in the compound. I have a tent; it is com- fortable, but during the day very hot. Soon after arriving at the Residency, there was a formal reception of the Guikowar and the 42 Sirdars. After breakfast, H.R.H. inspected the elephants the first state elephants he has seen ; Hall sketched some of them. Mr. and Mrs. Melville and their daughter have only just arrived at Baroda. It must have been rather trying to receive the Prince of Wales suddenly, but they did it very well, and have made all very comfortable. In the afternoon, the Prince, with his suite, returned the Guikowar's visit. They drove in state to the Moti-Bagh the usual salutes were fired, and ceremonies of a Durbar gone through. From the Moti Bagh, we drove to the Rumna, where the wild beasts are kept, and there saw some wild beast fights elephants, rhinoceros, buffalo, rams. A tiger was led in, secured by chains, and a number of other animals. These fights of animals were really very harmless proceed- ings, as they did not hurt each other in the least, the weaker very speedily giving way. One buffalo, in pushing another managed to break off his horn, but that was the only thing suggestive of pain. A man on horseback chased about the court-yard by an elephant was rather exciting, but he eluded the brute so easily that it was mere play. There was some wrestling by men, which was equally harmless. The Prince, with the Guikowar and suite, sat on a chabotra, and watched the fight going on in an enclosed court -yard below ; the walls crowded with spectators. The fights were very much like those that one saw in former times at Lucknow. The city was illuminated, and the native town looked picturesque with its quaint-looking houses and coloured verandahs, triumphal arches, and grotesque figures of natives stuck up here and there to represent ferishtas (fairies). Many of the buildings were prettily illuminated, and the general effect was good. We drove home and dressed for dinner with Col. Thompson, and the gth Madras N.I. The road was illuminated by chiraghs on bamboo arches. The mess-room of the gi\\ was very prettily decorated, and the entertainment was excellent. The Prince's health was pro- posed by the Colonel, to which H.R.H. made a most gracious reply. The decorations of the city have been managed by Mr. Hill, the State engineer, and very creditable they are, considering how short a time he had for preparation. The Prince's visit will have a good effect, confirming the recent proceedings which resulted in the selection and elevation of the present Guikowar to the Guddie. He is a nice-looking little boy, of about 10 years of age, who six months ago was making mud-pies in his native village. He is of the family of Mulhar-Rao the recently deposed Guikowar and is one of three boys, chosen by Sir R. Meade, who was then Resident, for the Maharani Jumna Bhai, widow of the late Guikowar, to select from. She chose this boy, who was forthwith converted from a little native villager to a sovereign Prince. A greater or more sudden change of fortune could hardly be imagined ; her choice \vas confirmed by Government. The poor little fellow looks shy and overwhelmed by his jewels and gorgeous turban. He appears to be a nice little lad, and there is every reason to hope that he will get on well under the fostering care of the Indian Government. His Dewan, Sir Madava Rao, is a very able man, and no doubt will guide the young Prince carefully. After the Durbar, some of us went with H.R.H. into the inner rooms, and had an interview with the Maharani Jumna Bhai. She is only 24, but looks older ; a very ordinary looking Hindoo woman, plainly dressed, and partly concealing her face with her veil. Her daughter, Tara Bhai, aged 4 years, was with her, sitting on an English lady's knee. She talked in a low voice to H.R.H., the lady and Sir R. Meade interpreting for her. We start early to-morrow morning for some black buck shooting and cheetah hunting at a place named Muckanpoora. There is a pleasant change in the weather since we left Bombay the nights are cool : one needs a blanket ; but the sun in the day is hot. We are all in good health, and a comparatively small party. Lord Suffield, Col. Williams and Mr. F. Knollys have gone to Hydera- bad ; Lord A. P. in a steamer for a trip along the coast ; Beresford left on board the Serapis, in consequence of his fall at Poona. On the day we arrived the Prince shot some very pretty birds in the Residency compound, which Mr. Bartlett is perserving. Saturday, 2oth November, 1875, Baroda. All up at 5 a.m.; still dark. Morning very fresh and cool thermometer in tent 59. We all (except Sir B. F.) drove off to the railway station and got into a train, that took us six miles to Muckanpoora, where we found carriages and horses waiting to take us on to the ground where the cheetahs were waiting. We got into bullock hackeries and followed the cheetahs, and after jolting for some time over rough ground we came in sight of some antelope. A cart stopped, and the cheetah slipped down to the ground ; he made a splendid run, following a buck for full 500 yards, but failed, and the buck escaped. Two others then followed, and the antelopes were killed. We had separated into two parties, and the second party also was successful. After the cheetah hunting was over, the Prince took his rifle and stalked the deer, but they had been so much disturbed that he did not get a fair chance. We then returned to the villa, where a splendid lunch was prepared in the large hall of the house, and as the day had become very hot, the rest and something to drink were agreeable. We remained under shelter till about 3.30, when we went out again to stalk the antelope ; this time in common country carts, not in such glittering vehicles as that on which the Prince had tried to approach the deer before lunch. Captain Jackson was our guide. The Prince got a buck, and some of the others were successful. The day was very hot, but the air was cool enough in the evening, as we drove home over a very dusty road. Got to camp about 6, and dressed for dinner at the mess of the 22nd Bombay N.I., Col. Nuthall. The mess-room was decorated with tiger skins, bisons, antelope horns, and other trophies. Col. Nuthall and officers of the regiment are great shikaries. The Cantonments and approaches to the city were illumi- nated, and it all looked very pretty and Oriental. The dinner was good, so were the speeches. We sat in the illuminated garden, smoked, and drank coffee, and then retired (about midnight) to our tents. Before we went to dinner I extracted some points of spear grass that had stuck into H.R.H.'s legs when stalking the antelope. The Residency was the scene of the events lately described, in connexion with the attempts to poison Col. Phayre, and where Outram had a similar experience when he was Resident at Baroda, many years ago. The Minister, and not the Guikowar, was the offender in his case. The officers of the Native Infantry Regiments are much pleased at having entertained the Prince, and say this event will long be remembered in the regiment. The thermometer at night falls to 58; the air is bright and feels cold. The cold season is just setting in, and for three months the climate of Baroda is pleasant ; but at other times of the year it is hot, and after the rains, I am told, very 44 teverish. Dr. Atkins, Residency surgeon, tells me there is a good deal of cotton grown about here in the black soil of Guzerat. I asked him if it is more malarious than other soils? He seemed to think that, perhaps, it may be so. Cholera was severe here in the early part of the year ; what with it and political troubles, they have had a bad time of it lately at Baroda. About 15 miles distant may be seen Howah-Ghur "abode of the winds" about 2,000 feet high, the only hill in this part of the country. It is said that on and about it there is good tiger, leopard, and sambur shooting. Captain Westmacott has joined us here ; he had his left hand badly mauled by a panther some time ago. I have been riding a grey Arab, of the Guikowar's to-day. There were many special correspondents out at Muckunpoora, and some difficulty occurred about their tiffin. I believe it was all put to rights. The enterprise and energy of these gentlemen is wonderful, they manage to be at their post everywhere in spite of all sorts of difficulties ; their presence in such numbers on this occasion quite of a private nature was rather oppressive ! Sunday, 2ist November. Baroda. Writing letters for home and to Sir W. Jenner, to keep him informed of the health of the party. We had service in the Residency. Mr. Polehampton, the chaplain, read prayers. We are to shoot to-morrow at Ahmadabad, and pre- parations are being made. Servants, with guns, are to meet us at the railway station to-night, after a party at the Moti Bagh, where we dine with the Maharani. We drove through the illuminated city, escorted by the Guikowar's cavalry and Hussars. Sir R. Meade, Mr. and Mrs. Melville, and others were there to receive the Prince. The dinner was laid out in a long pavillion in the garden, where we assembled. Sir M. Rao, after dinner, made a good speech, to which the Prince responded. The Ma.harani did not appear at dinner, but was close to, and from behind a screen saw all that went on. In the Palace the Guikowar's jewels were laid out for inspection, and very beautiful and magnificent they are. There were fireworks in the garden, very brilliant, but made a nasty smell of sulphur. We remained until u p.m., and then went direct to the train. We slept in the carriages, and at daylight next morning got out at Mahmoodabad, a station 43 miles from Baroda, and began quail shooting. Monday, 22nd November, Mahmoodabad. We had chotahazari, and then, separating into small parties, began quail shooting; my companion was Col. Hancock, of the Engineers. There were eight such parties. We formed lines of beaters. The quail were pretty numerous, especially in the Dhal fields. We got a fair bag of hares, partridges and quail ; I had about 20 couples. We re- turned to breakfast at about n a.m., at an old Mahomedan tomb, called the Roza. Mr. Shepherd, the collector of Ahundabad, enter- tained us. We killed about 120 couples of quail altogether good sport, considering the short time. The Prince seemed pleased. Re- turning to breakfast and to the station, I rode a camel and found it rather rough. After breakfast we returned to the railway, four miles distant from the Roza, and got back to Baroda for lunch. The day was pleasant, and though hot in the sun, the air was fresh, cool, dry and bracing compared with Bombay. After lunch we set off in carriages on another expedition for hog-hunting, a long and very rapid drive of 16 miles over a newly-made road; the carriages drawn by Artillery horses brought us to Dubka, where there are a couple of 45 bungalows, and a camp pitched for the party. My Arab had gone on with the other horses the day before. We reached Dubka at 6.15 p. in , just at dark. The Prince occupied one bungalow ; the other was prepared for a dining-room. We were very tired, and slept well ; I shared a tent with Probyn and Ellis. Tuesday, 2yd November, Dubka. We mounted at 6 a.m., of a beautiful cool morning, and rode to the ground where the pigs were to be found. The arrangements had been made by Captain Jackson, Colonel Nuthall, and Captain Westmacott, who led the party. The Prince rode one of his English horses. 1,000 beaters were collected. We began the beat not far from a village in very promising ground, a plain covered with patches of short jungle plenty of room for a good run. After some unsuccessful beats a pig was found, but he escaped among the crops, which were thick in most places. Another was soon turned out, and after a good deal of hunting, was killed H.R.H. got a spear. We had one or two unsuccessful runs, and then returned to camp to lunch at 2 p.m. We had little success, but it was a beautiful day, and we had a pleasant gallop ; my little Arab carried me well. At 3 p.m. we got into our carriages and returned to Baroda. I was with Ellis. The Prince stopped at a jheel on the way to shoot snipe ; he also shot some sarus-cranes. We got home in time for dinner at 8 p.m. A deputation from Broach waited on the Prince at 8.30 p.m., at the Residency, and presented an address. The Guikowar, Sir Madava Rao, and other officials were at the station, and under the usual salutes, music and ceremonials, the Prince took leave of Baroda to return to Bombay, where we arrived at 8 a.m. Baroda is about 240 miles north of Bombay, and we found, as we went south, that we got into the warm steamy atmosphere again. On reaching Bombay, salutes were fired ; a guard of honour and all the high officials were waiting. We drove to the pier, and embarked at once in the steam launches, and went on board the Serapis. The weather feels rather cooler than when we left Bombay ; but it is still hot and muggy, and I found the thermometer standing at 84 in my cabin. This was on Wednesday, 24th November. Sir 13. Frere s'sys the weather is unusually hot for the time of the year. Lord A. Paget, and Fitzgeorge, who went in the Osborne along the coast to Jinjra, have returned; they got no sport. They heard of and were near a tiger, but did not get him. Lord C. Beresford is better. Lord Suffield, Col. O. Williams, and Mr. Knollys have also returned from Hyderabad. They enjoyed their trip, and appear to have had good sport among the black buck. Col. Williams has just received a tele- gram announcing the sad intelligence of his mother's death. I am much disappointed with the climate of Bombay ; anything more oppressive or disagreeably hot and damp one can hardly imagine. It reminds me of Calcutta in September, and at present is very conducive to prickly heat and other disagreeables. All, however, are in good health, the Prince bears the heat well, and seems rather to enjoy it. We leave General Sam Browne and his staff here, to rejoin us at Madras or Calcutta, as future events in our progress may determine. The thermometer stands this evening at 82 dry, 74 wet bulb, showing more dryness in the air than heretofore; the wind, N.E. The Prince paid the Admiral a visit this morning. The Jheejheebhoy family (ladies included) visited the Serapis to- 46 day, and were much pleased. We had a dinner party on board the Serapis ; Sir R. Meade and other officials present. Thursday, 2$th November, Serapis, Bombay Harbour. Pleasant breeze last evening and this morning thermometer 82 to 84. Went on shore with the Prince and the suite, in state; salutes, music, yards manned. We paid a visit to Sir N. Nathaboy, whose two sons were going through the ceremonies of marriage. Necklaces of flowers, books, &c., were presented. We then drove to Parell to pay a farewell visit to Sir P. Wodehouse. There was a tiffin party at Parell. After lunch the Prince conferred the honour of knighthood on Mr. Frank Souter, Commissioner of Police, of Bombay, in the presence of the Governor and the suite. Sir Frank Souter did good service during the Mutiny, and has frequently distinguished himself. During the recent troubles at Baroda his services were conspicuously good, and his arrangements during the Prince of Wales's visit to Bombay have been particularly successful. The Prince congratulated him after giving the accolade ; we then did the same, and shook hands with him. He seems to be in all respects a very good fellow, and deserving of the honour. After the ceremony Shepherd and Bourne took a; photograph of the Prince and suite. We then returned to the pier, and embarked in great state. The Commander-in-Chief, General, and all the high officials, the principal European, Parsee, and native inhabitants were present. Many of the native chiefs were in attendance at the Dockyard to take leave of the Prince, Salutes were fired by the batteries on shore, and by the fleet. Professor Monier Williams, of Oxford, came on board, and was presented to the Prince. He is visiting India, and purposes establish- ing an Indian Institute at Oxford. I had a long talk with him on the subject. We got under weigh at 5 p.m. and steamed out of harbour. Ships all gaily decorated, and saluting, with yards manned. We are bound first for Goa, Admiral Macdonald's ship the Undaunted, with the Raleigh and Osborne accompanying. Beautiful breeze smooth water. Bombay and the surrounding coast looked very picturesque as we left it. I confess I am glad to get away from the heat, exposure, excitement and hard work. I have been anxious lest the Prince should be knocked up, though since we left Poona he has not been so much taxed. Col. Michael accompanies us in the Serapis. We have been receiving frequent health reports from the infected districts, and they are all of such a nature as to render it, in my opinion, quite improper for the Prince to undertake any expedition in the neighbourhood of Beypore or the Annamallays. We hope to receive further reports at Beypore ; apparently it is intended that the Prince's movements shall be influenced by the nature of the news we may receive there. Friday, 26th November, at sea. In sight of the Concan shore. Raleigh and Osborne accompanying us. The Undaunted has gone on to Colombo. Smooth water, pleasant breeze thermometer 78 to 84 night and day temperatures. I am writing home. At 2 p.m. the Osborne went on, with Col. Ellis, to inform the Governor of Goa that the Prince is coming. We hope to be off that port this evening, or at all events, early to-morrow morning. Saturday, i^th November, 1875, at anchor off Goa. Yesterday the Osborne was sent on with Col. Ellis to visit the Governor and 47 inform him that the Prince is coming. We anchored off the bar Sssterday evening, and Col. Ellis returned to say that he had seen the overnor. This morning we all went on board the May Frere, a small tender, and steamed on shore, under salutes from Fort Panjum. On nearing the shore the Governor-General, Tavares D'Almeida, came off in a launch with the chief secretary and suite to receive the Prince. He was in an 8-oared galley, the crew wearing conical scarlet caps, with large silver plates. On the pier, near Government House, a crowd of natives and Portuguese was assembled. European and native troops were drawn up as a guard of honour, with a military band. The harbour and its entrance is very picturesque ; there were crowds of boats sailing about. On landing, we proceeded to the Government House, which is close to the pier. The Prince passed along the line of native and Portuguese troops to a large plain building, the rooms of which are decorated with numerous portraits of Portuguese celebrities, Governors and Viceroys, Albuquerque, Vasco de Gama, Braganza, and others. There was a reception, at which the Governor presented the chief officials and residents of Goa. I noticed some very dark ones among them. It was intensely hot, and the sun's rays fierce enough to make one ill, and give sunstroke. We went in boats to the ancient pier of Old Goa, and proceeded to visit the remains of that dilapidated city. It is entirely deserted and ruinous, except a few houses and some churches, all telling of departed frandeur and splendour. The quays, arsenals, and government uildings are all in ruins. It is said to have become so malarious as to be uninhabitable; there may have been other reasons, but probably the causes of decadence were intensified by the fever, and together produced the present state of things. We were accompanied by the Governor, Chief Secretary and staff. A stout Captain of Engineers took me under his protection, and I thought more than once that he would have dropped from coup de soleil, for the sun was very power- ful. The Governor, Chief Secretary and staff were close to the Prince. It was intensely hot 90 in the shade, 130 in the sun. After a fatiguing walk, tho' some had carriages the Prince and the Governor and some others were in mancheels we returned to the boats and to Panjum, where we re-embarked in the May Frere, and returned to the Serapis. The usual salutes were fired, and honours paid to the Prince and the Governor. After lunch the Prince proposed the health of the King and Queen of Portugal. At about 3 p.m. H.E. embarked in the May Frere, and went on shore under a salute of 21 guns from the Raleigh. We had breakfasted on board the May Frere as we ran into Goa. Whilst at Old Goa we visited several of the churches, which are very grand, especially those of the Conception and Bon Jesus. The chapels in the latter are highly ornate, and in the church is the tomb containing the remains of Saint Francis Xavier, all but one arm, which was sent to Rome. He died, I believe, in China. In visiting the old town we passed under the ancient gateway of Vasco de Gama, under which all Governor-Generals of Goa have to pass. We saw St. Catherine's Cathedral, portion of the Palace of the Inquisition, and a church with a noble interior, and very rich shrines. The place seems nearly deserted ; a few natives were praying in the churches. It seemed to me that native Christians are relatively more numerous here than in any other part of India I have visited. 48 The Serapis remained at anchor outside, the water, I suppose, not being deep enough for nearer approach to Goa. The May Frere returned to Bombay, taking our letters to catch the English mail. The Prince gave Captain Guthrie a scarf pin, and said something kind and gracious on parting with him. After dinner we all dressed in flannel and landed in the steam launches to draw the seine net on the sandy beach. A lovely star- light night, though a very tropical and tepid atmosphere. C. Beresford and others had preceded us, and we could see their lights burning on the beach, and hear the shouts of the men as they dragged the seines. The landing place was about six miles from the ship. We had to pass through the surf and get into the gig, for that purpose. We got wet, but landed safely, and found a most picturesque scene of officers and men, nearly stripped, hauling the seine. They had already had several hauls, and caught a lot of small fish, but no sea-snakes, as I expected. They were splashing and rushing into the surf that rolled on the beach. Every one drenched including the Prince, Duke of Suther- land, and Lord Suffield. There were roaring bon-fires, round which we had coffee. It was a most exciting and picturesque scene. Lovely starlight, the Southern Cross sparkling brilliantly in the south. H.R.H. enjoyed the sport immensely he was up to his knees in the water, and dragging at the seine with the rest. Such a party, I think, had never before been seen half naked, rushing about in the surf on a tropical beach at midnight. After several hauls three or four buckets of small fish were procured, none larger than a herring, except a few skates. We pushed out in the gig through the surf, got into the launch, which had anchored outside, and returned to the ship. It was a wild, but very enjoyable adventure ; so warm, and there was so much exercise that I hoped no one would suffer. C. B., I fear, may be knocked up, as he has been making tremendous exertions after his recent illness and accident. We changed clothes as soon as we got on board, and I sat talking to the Prince until i a.m., when we went to bed. We start early for Beypore. I think H.R.H. seemed less tired than any one. He certainly is wonderfully strong. Thermometer 84 in the cabin when I retired. Sunday (Advent), 2&th November, 1875. We got under weigh before daylight, and when I went on deck this morning we were steaming along the coast a few miles from land. Very hot : ther- mometer 84 to 86 in the cabins. Smooth green water nice breeze off the land. The coast is bold and varied ; the hills beyond Goa are 2,000 feet high. We had service on deck Mr. Duckworth preached, and Mr. York read prayers. Lord C. B. is suffering from the over-exertion of last night, and exposure to sun during the day. A. G. is also unwell ; the great heat of yesterday, during the expedition to Goa, has upset him. He was a good deal exposed, and his head not sufficiently protected. He is out of sorts, liver deranged, and he looks yellow about the eyes. The Portuguese officers were astonished at the way in which we exposed ourselves to the heat of the sun. I need not say it did not meet with my approval, but I could not do more than urge them to keep in the shade as much as possible. B. has had sharp cramp in the stomach : relieved by fomentations, opiates, &c. ; E. also is upset by the heat ; his mucous membrane deranged. Lord C. felt the heat much yesterday, and had to lie down and have ice to his head; he is better 49 to-day. The rest are quite weH, the Prince in excellent health. Last night I sent by the May Frere letters home and to several friends. I have not felt any ill effects from the heat and the wetting last night. Monday, 2gth November, off Beypore. It was a very hot night ; the Southern Cross looked lovely. The Duke of S. spoke yesterday about the necessity of not running any risk to the Prince for the sake of mere shooting. I told him such were altogether the views I was steadily advocating. The Duke said he had spoken strongly on the subject, advising them not to press the expedition. I said, I had stated and should repeat that my opinion was altogether against it. B. and C. are better; A. G. is ailing and feverish; I have him under treatment. We anchored in seven fathoms, at 8.30 a.m. ; town distant seven or eight miles. Clouds hanging about the hills which lie along the coast. I had a restless night, and spent part of it on deck. I am anxious about the Prince and the inclination there still is to induce him to land and undertake the shooting trip. I went down to my cabin at 3 p.m., and there fell asleep. Soon after anchoring, Mr. Robinson, late Acting-Governor of Madras, now senior member of the Madras Council, came on board with Mr. Athol Mac Gregor, Resident of Trevandrum, and Dr. Houston. I had a conference with the Prince, Sir B. Frere, Col. Michael, Col. Ellis, and Mr. Knollys, and it was decided after some discussion that, in view of the reports of epidemic cholera being still present in these parts, we are not to undertake the shooting trip. It is also de- cided that the Prince will not attempt shooting in Travancore. Mr. MacGregor says there is no cholera, but he cannot recommend the shooting about Trevandrum, another place that had been suggested to the Prince, so it is decided that we are to go direct to Colombo, at 5 p.m. this evening. Dr. Roberts, Civil Surgeon of Beypore, came on board ; I had a long talk with him. He did not think that the individual risk to the Prince was great. Probably; but H.R.H. is not to be exposed to any such risk. Suppose some of his suite or servants got cholera ! My instructions were clear that the Prince of Wales should not be exposed to any known or obvious risk beyond that which was inseparable from a visit to India. After lunch the Prince and some of the suite started in two of the steam-launches on an expedition up the river; they took their guns with them.- At 5 p.m. thermometer in my cabin 85; wet bulb 79; temperature of sea, 85 ; light sea breeze blowing. The Prince did not return till late. Some anxiety began to be felt lest any accident should have happened to the boats. They had been up the river shooting, and H.R.H. had shot some otters and birds, and enjoyed himself considerably. I was rather anxious about this exposure, and hope no harm will result. There is an alternation of land and sea breezes along the coast, and the direction and force of the monsoons no doubt is influenced a good deal by the Ghauts which border the coast All say that this is an unusually hot season, and that it is many years since cholera has visited this part of India so severely as this year. I wrote home from Beypore, and to Sir W. Jenner. Lords C. and C. B. are both better ; the latter has been practising pistol shooting on deck. Ellis is also better. I feel very sorry that the Madras people, as well as the Prince and Colonel Michael, are 5o disappointed about the shooting expedition, but it is clearly my duty to do all I can to prevent it. I feel very much disappointed, too, for I would give anything to see the hills, the bison, ibex and wild elephant, but I must object to the Prince travelling anywhere where cholera is epidemic. Reports begin to appear in the papers that cholera has appeared in Muttra ; if so, I fear the camp at Delhi may be interfered with. However, these are only surmises, but I must keep the best look out I can, and oppose any travelling for the Prince where cholera is known to be epidemic or more than usually active. Tuesday, y)th November, at sea, between Beypore and Ceylon. We sailed from Beypore about 6.30 p.m. yesterday. All that we have heard here confirms the telegraphic and written reports that cholera is epidemic in Southern India, and more and more convinces me that the proposed trip to this part of the Madras Presidency ought to be avoided. I now hear that Mr. Robinson and others said they quite expected that the trip to the Annamallys would not be undertaken. I have had an exceedingly difficult part to play, having to contend against the inclinations and wishes of so many. We are running along the Malabar coast. Fine fresh breeze smooth water; thermometer 83. Two or three whales came in sight, and some of the party tried to get a shot at them. A dinner party on board, in honour of Beresford's promotion to the rank of Commander, of which he has just heard. It was a very festive evening ; H.R.H. made an excellent speech. I hear that, during the boat expedition up the river yesterday, the Prince landed to shoot some birds when the sun was very hot. He toiled through the mud after them, and was much interested in the sport. Lord A. P. and D. of S. were with him. Just before dinner a fresh, cold land breeze blew in through the ports very pleasant, but dangerous on account of chill, and, per- chance, malaria. I advised H.R.H. not to expose himself to it. He laughed, and said he did not mind it remarking that if so many pre- cautions were to be taken he had better go back to England. The ship was hot on the lee side, 82 in my cabin ; too hot and stuffy to sleep well. Bathed in perspiration, the chill is dangerous, and it is well known to be so to those who know the country. I warned all my companions against sleeping in it. Grey is ailing ; the exposure at Goa was too much for him. His liver is upset, and he is feverish. I am watching him indeed all very closely. I have been writing letters, and reading Valbezen's I ndia, a very in- teresting book; but reading and writing are difficult in this temperature. Something went wrong with the boilers to-day ; they produced only dirty water, but this was soon corrected. Fine fresh breeze ; smooth water. Travancore a few miles distant. Water blue in early morn- ing, became green after 10 a.m. The land low and sandy on the shore. The land in some places is quite red where the soil is turned up, I suppose, for some kind of crop. There are numerous groves of cocoa-nuts. A beautifully undulating chain of hills forms the back- ground, on which the clouds are resting low. About 6 p.m. we were off Cape Comorin ; low land, with one or two prominent peaks or hills. The bearings were hot this morning, which rather slackened our speed, but we are going about n again now. After the dinner the sailors had theatricals on deck, and after them the party adjourned with the Prince to the ward-room, where singing was kept up till a late hour. Besides the whales, B. and A. had several shots at a large fish that passed near us, not very deep below the surface ; it swam quietly, and appeared to me to be a large shark. The Prince said he thought it was hit ; we did not see it again. Wednesday, 1st December, 1875. Fresh monsoon blowing ; ports closed on port side. After getting clear of Cape Comorin, there was a good deal of motion. Some were sea-sick and unable to attend the festivities in the ward-room. We arrived in Colombo roadstead at about 1 1.30 to-day. Fleet, with both flagships, at anchor ; they looked very well decorated and ready to man yards and salute. Weather very muggy and close ; thermometer 82 to 84 in cabin. Mr. Gregory, the Governor, Mr. Birch, the Secretary, the General, and Dr. Kinsey, P.M.O., came on board immediately, and gave a good account of the health of the island. There has been cholera some time ago, but there is none now. Two sporadic cases were reported from Kandy, and I am to be kept regularly informed of all that occurs. Dr. Kinsey gave positive assurance that cholera in the epidemic form has entirely disappeared from this part of the island for some time. The camp at Ruanwella, where the Prince is to shoot elephants, is reported to be perfectly healthy also. I confess I am anxious in regard to fever, but Dr. K. assures me that excellent pre- parations are made, and that the Prince can run no risk ! After lunch we all landed in state ; salutes were fired. The Governor, with General Street and the staff, received the Prince. A grand reception was prepared; all the principal officers, native and European in- habitants, and crowds of natives present. The pier was beautifully decorated with flags, cocoanut and palm trees. Under a canopy, erected on purpose, an address was read by General Street, as repre- sentative of the Legislative Council. The Prince made a gracious reply. This is the Princess of Wales' birthday ; a telegram was sent to her by the Prince. The Municipality also presented an address. We drove through the town of Colombo, which was beautifully decorated with arches and festoons, made of cocoanut and palm trees, and flags of all descriptions. Crowds of Cingalese, with their curious head-dresses, and men with their hair done up in chignons and tortoise-shell combs. The procession passed through the principal streets; past the chief buildings, then along the sea-shore, to the Government House, where refreshments were ready. Admirals Mac- donald and Rowley Lambert were with the Prince. We returned on board the Serapis to dinner. The sea was rough and we got a splashing. The Governor and his suite dined on board. The address was presented in a beautiful ivory casket, ornamented with Cingalese gems and filled with spices. The town of Colombo was picturesque, but very tropical, with its cocoanut and palm groves and luxuriant vegetation. The sea rolling up in breakers on the sandy beach looked very cool and refreshing. There was a little rain this after- noon, and it seems probable we may have more, as the rainy season is hardly over yet. There was heavy rain and a thunderstorm only a few days ago. Wrote home to-day. We proceed to Kandy to-morrow. It was contemplated to have an expedition by land to Trincomalee to shoot elephants, but this is given up as there is not time, and it is by no means clear that the journey would be free from danger to health. Gradually some of my anxieties about dangerous trips are diminishing. The night on board was close and sultry, and the ship rolling rather heavily in the swell that tumbles in on the beach caused 52 oy the monsoon, which is blowing freshly made it disagreeable. Some of the European servants are ailing with simple disorders. I am making enquiry in all directions. Dr. Kinsey is most kind ; he is to keep me informed regularly of all that occurs, and will accompany us. He is a Surgeon-Major in our army, and is Chief Civil Medical Officer of the Colony. He assures me all is quite safe at present. Thursday, 2nd December, from Colombo to Kandy. Our servants (I took only Ibrahim) and baggage started at 6 a.m. to-day for Kandy by rail. We landed in state under salutes, music, and yards manned, by the fleet. A good deal of swell in the harbour made it rather difficult to get into the steam-launches, and as the Serapis rolled rather heavily got splashed. We drove to the railway station through decorated and crowded streets, and found a special train prepared with our names on the carriages. At the station I met my old pupils at the Calcutta Medical College, Dr. Koch, Dr. Van-Dort, and Dr. Vander Straten. I presented them to the Prince, who shook hands and spoke most kindly to them. We were a large Earty with the Admiral, the General, and the Governor's suite and ift the station under most enthusiastic cheering in very comfortable and roomy carriages. The weather hot, steamy and muggy to a degree ; it is like a vapour bath, and is very enervating but all are pretty well. Grey is not quite right yet, though he is better. I am perpetually cautioning all my companions against exposure to the sun and other tropical dangers. It began to rain just as we started. The line from Colombo to Kandy is lovely and picturesque ; the vegetation is very dense and tropical. There are occasional open spaces of rice fields and palm plantations before the ascent is com- menced, when the scenery becomes more beautiful. The railway must have been most costly an-d difficult from an engineering point of view. The ascent of the Ghat is I in 37 to 47, and the road winds round spurs of hills overhanging deep valleys. Everywhere the eye rests on dense foliage. On the slopes of the hills, after ascending a few hundred feet, we come among the coffee plantations and clearings. Each station most gaily decorated with palm and cocoa-nut leaves, stalks and fruit, twisted into all sorts of fantastic shapes and devices. Crowds of Cingalese, in some places with music, which was barbarous enough. There is a yellow species of cocoa-nut, which contrasts beautifully with the green, and suspended in clusters all over the festoons and arches, and had a beautiful effect these were contrasted with the young white fronds of the palms and the deep green of the riper leaves and stems. Pine-apples and palmettas and areca fruit, blossoms and leaves, mingle beautifully and in exquisite taste with the rest. The lower country Cingalese are dressed in white or coloured jackets and aprons, with combs in the men's hair,' which is twisted into a knot like that on an Englishwoman's head, whilst the Kandyans have gigantic head-gear and gaily decorated dresses. The Buddhist priests form a prominent feature in the crowds ; they are recog- nised by their yellow robes, shaven heads and demure faces. The greatest enthusiasm prevailed, and the most intense anxiety to catch a glimpse of the Prince. The people shouted everywhere with delight. I am sorry to say two or three tame buffaloes were injured by getting in the way of the engine as we passed along. At the last station but one before Parad en ia we halted at a bungalow on an eminence, for 53 lunch. At 4 p.m. we arrived at Kandy, where there was a most cordial reception. The station was gaily decorated with palms and flags; there were crowds of people in gay costumes, and many Kandyan chiefs in their gorgeous but grotesque dress; also, as a contrast, a group of Veddahs, with their bows and arrows; very inferior specimens of the human race aboriginal inhabitants of Ceylon. There was a guard of honour of European soldiers, and salutes were fired ; we got into carriages and drove to Government House, which is beautifully situated in a lovely but very tropical garden, full of trees and palms. It is cooler here, naturally, but still is close and muggy, the air is so damp. Thermometer only 72, but the least exertion bathes one in perspiration, and it is most enervating. I walked in the garden and through the town, which was decorated with palms, flags, triumphal arches, and various devices, as at Colombo, but found walking very tiring. I went in the direction of a temple, on the border of the little lake, where the sacred tooth of Buddha is pre- served. We are all very well, but wearied by the heat and moisture of the atmosphere. Kandy is a lovely little city, situated in an amphitheatre of hills, with clusters of beautiful tropical vegetation, and a very pretty little lake, on the border of which the temple is situated. We had a dinner party at Government House, and after it, a private rehearsal of the Perihara, a procession of elephants by torchlight, and grotesque figures of devil dancers, making hideous contortions as they passed. The Kandyan chiefs also passed in procession ; this occurred in the garden of Government House. The elephants were of all sizes, but I observed that they were led, not ridden, by mahouts, as in India, and each was loaded with people. Their trappings and deco- rations were for the most part of red cloth, such as one sees in India. There were a few small tuskers, and I observed that their tusks were not cut. It may be that in this damp climate it is not necessary to cut them, as it is in India, to prevent them from splitting in the dry heated air. The Kandyan dress is peculiar. A square or angular turban with gems and gaudy tinsel, a silk jacket, similarly decorated, and rolls of muslin round the body, making them look like walking or waddling pin-cushions the greater the dignity the more the muslin. There were also oddly-dressed figures covered with metallic armour- like plates, dancing wildly to clanging and barbarous music, as they passed by torchlight, in a procession which would have been ridiculous but for the elephants and the surrounding objects. Kandy, Friday, yd December, 1875. The day steamy, oppressive, and occasionally raining. Thermometer 74 in shade. In the morning it was clear, the sun bright and hot. We drove out to the Paradenia Botanic Gardens, and were shewn everything by Dr. Thwaites, the superintendent. We saw the nutmeg and other spices ; a queen white ant was exhumed, and the Prince shot some flying foxes (Pteropus). We drove and walked about the gardens, which are very extensive, most beautifully kept, and abound in every form of tropical vegetation. Mr. Mudd is adding considerably to his stock. Russell tells me that he has read a very abusive article in one of the Madras papers about me, for preventing the Prince from going to the Annamallays, and other stations in the cholera-stricken districts. I am indifferent, as I know what I have done is right. Several of my old pupils are here, Vanderstraten, Koch, Van der Smaght, Keyte, Van-Dort, Gratian. They have invited me to a E 54 unch at Colombo when we return, for the purpose of making me an offering in memory of the old college days. When we returned I went to see Mrs. C., who, with her aged husband, had come from England to visit their sons in Ceylon. She was very ill with internal inflammation. I suggested some remedies. She is a very fine, cheery old lady, full of courage and energy. Walked in the town with Dr. Kinsey and Dr. Vanderstraten . Very close and muggy, with rain at times. Our guns and traps are all being despatched to Ruanwella. A photograph was taken of the Prince, the Governor and the suite. I wrote to the Queen again to-day. Saturday, ^th December, Kandy to Ruanwella. A very steamy morning. We leave Kandy for our shooting camp, at Ruanwella. The Prince showed me a Madras paper, in which there was an article ridiculing the idea of our not going by the Annamallay route ; it not only abused me, but spoke very disrespectfully of him, and implied that he was allowing himself to be unduly influenced by reports of cholera, of which he ought not to have any fear ! The Prince said he thought I ought to answer it ; I ventured to differ, and he told me to consult Sir B. F., who, as far as I could gather, did not think it should be replied to, and said he would speak to the Prince. I said that I felt very sorry to have been obliged to interfere with the plans, but that I had felt it my duty to do so, so far, and that I must interfere when anything prejudicial to his health occurred. After dinner yesterday there was a very grand reception at the temple, but the illuminations and decorations were sadly marred by the rain. There was a procession of elephants, with music, a repetition in public, on a large scale, of what we saw in the gardens of Government House. The Kandyan chiefs and their wives were assembled to receive the Prince; we were admitted into the penetralia of the temple, and the golden casket in which the sacred treasure, Buddha's tooth is enshrined, was unlocked. It was taken out and examined : it looks like the tooth of an animal a long yellow fang, blunt at each end no human tooth, certainly. It is regarded as a very precious relic ! In the great hall of the temple H.R.H. conferred Knighthood of St. Michael and St. George on Mr. Gregory, who made a speech in reply, when the Prince had invested him with the Star and Badge of the Order. The Badge of Companion was then presented to Mr. Birch, the Secretary, and to Mr. Douglas, Auditor-General. The Kandyan chiefs and ladies were present, as well as many Europeans. The chiefs presented a casket of Cingalese manufacture to the Prince. We went over the temple and its court-yards, and from a balcony a sort of bastion watched the procession of elephants, musicians, devil dancers, and crowds of Cingalese ; the fireworks and illuminations were sadly spoiled by the heavy rain. When it was all over we went to bed. I had a. room in the house. We were up early in the morning, and off by train for our shooting ground. The reports of cholera in the south still continue, and it is doubtful how we shall proceed after leaving Colombo. Tuticorin, and thence by rail to Madras, is spoken of, but it seems to me that even this may be doubtful, and causes me much anxiety ! The authorities now, I hear, do not recommend the land route. There seems to be some doubt if the Prince could land from the Serapis at Madras if we go by sea, on account of the surf. Admiral Macdonald seems to think it could be done ; but other naval authorities differ. I suggested that 55 the Master-Attendant at Madras should be consulted. Meanwhile we remain in uncertainty as to our future movements ! Our shooting party is a limited one : the Prince, Lord Suffield, Probyn, Fitz George, C. Beresford, Russell, Aylesford, Birch, Kinsey, Campbell, some other Ceylon civil officers, and myself. We started by train from Kandy,which took us over very picturesque country among the hills, to Navalpittyah, where we found carriages waiting to take us into camp at Ruanwella, where the kraal has been constructed, and the elephant shooting is to begin. We halted at Kitugalla rest house, where a splendid tiffin had been prepared. The rain had now begun, and was falling in torrents. The rest house was some hundred yards from the road, which was so heavy with the wet that we had to get out and walk to it through the mud. We halted here some hours, and then got into our carriages and drove on. Beresford, Kynsey and I were in an open barouche, and soon got drenched to the skin, the rain was so heavy it came up above our ankles in the carriage. The road from Navalpittyah to Kitugalla was lovely, and passed through the wildest tropical scenery, winding round and among hills covered with dense vegetation, and here and there with coffee plan- tations. As we began to descend from the Sinighatherme Gap the clouds thickened into mist, and then into rain, which fell in torrents. After leaving Kitugalla, and before we reached camp at Ruanwella we were drenched to the skin. I was very anxious about them all. The Prince had a closed carriage, so escaped pretty well. I persuaded them all to take quinine immediately and change their clothes. This was not easy to do, as much of the baggage had not arrived. It was being carried by coolies, and the rain stopped them. We passed quantities of our things en route, and when we arrived, men and such conveyances as could be found were sent back to expedite their arrival. The horses were all tired, so it was difficult. Altogether we were in rather a sorry plight. Fortunately good quarters had been prepared for the Prince in an old house in the ancient fort, where he changed his clothes and took quinine. It was a mistake to trust to coolies ; the baggage would have travelled better, though perhaps more slowly, in native carts covered with thatch. Guns and everything were left on the road; however, during the night they came up. Dr. Kinsey had all ready, his baggage had been sent on before, and was lodged in a bamboo hut. He gave me dry clothes, some brandy and quinine. I feared the wetting would bring on my old fever again, but it did not. Our camp consists of huts constructed of palm leaves and bamboos, lined with white calico, very picturesque, and would be very comfortable if the weather were only fine, but it poured with rain, and everything was saturated. The air is steamy and warm to a degree like a vapour bath. The grass, rice, and low scrub are full of leeches, which find you out directly, and before evening numerous complaints were made of their finding their way insidiously all over the place. Nearly everyone has seen, if not felt them. They are little things, like pieces of black thread, dreadfully voracious, attack you without mercy, and once attached, they quickly fill out into a portentous size ! A large pandal, fabricated, like our huts, of mat and palm, lined with calico and prettily decorated, has been constructed, and we dined in it quite a large party, including the attendant civil officers, Mr. Birch, Secretary to the Government, Mr. Campbell, the Superintendent of Police, Mr. Dawson, Dr Kinsey, Mr. Atherton and others. Messrs. Varian and Fisher, two young Ceylon civilians, have come from quite the other end of the island to join the party. They are famous elephant shots, and have come especially to accompany the Prince in his elephant shikar. They are tall, slight, active young men, of about 25 years of age. There seems to be considerable apprehension or, at all events, they are much talked about of Tic-Polongas (Daboia), a venomous viper, common in Ceylon, but no one has seen anything of them as yet. My things arrived by the evening ; poor Ibrahim was wet through, and had considerable trouble in getting here. The baggage got wet by rain, and the damp air, which is simply saturated with moisture. I have persuaded the Prince to take some quinine, and many of my companions have followed the example. We went to bed tired enough. There were not very many mosquitos, but the leeches were great pests, and they got in everywhere. We are provided with stocking overalls of brown Holland leech gaiters which help to keep them from the legs, and at all events, on the light coloured cloth, one is able to see at once when a leech attaches itself. Birch, Russell and I have a mat house between us, and we should be comfortable enough if it were not for the wet. They certainly have taken immense trouble in their preparations. We were much amused at dinner by Mr. A's. graphic description of his hunting adventures. Fisher and Varian also enlightened us on the mode of shooting elephants. They have immense heavy rifles, carrying about four or six to the Ib. We did not sit very late after dinner. Examined some Ceylon products brought for the Prince to inspect, and then went off to our mat houses to bed. Sir W. Gregory and Captain Thackwell, his excellent A.D.C., who has done so much for us, go by the river to-morrow morning, to make preparations to receive the Prince at Colombo. Majors Tranchell and Douglas, and Lieut. Michel, are also of our party. Some of the suite the Duke of Sutherland, Lord Carrington and others, went to Newera Ellia. They were to go to Kandapola to try and get some elk (sambur) shooting and hunting. Lord Alfred has gone to Colombo. Sir B. F., Grey and Duckworth are at Colombo, where we all meet again, we hope, in a day or two. December $th, 1875. Camp, Ruanwella. The early morning was fine, but it soon clouded over, and rain fell ; the rest of the day was wet ; the air steamy and warm. We had a comparatively quiet day in camp. The Prince and some of the party went out snipe shooting in the rice swamps which surround the place where it is free from jungle. They also went after deer, but only got birds. One of the party is said to have shot a buffalo ; I fear it was a tame one, but it broke cover where a deer was expected, and so met its fate. The afternoon was oppressive and steamy. I was talking to Macdonald, H.R.H.'s yager, whilst a thunderstorm was going on, when he suddenly sank to the ground. I thought he had been struck by the lightning, but it was only a sort of half-faint ; he was depressed with the heat and fatigue of travelling and sitting up, and is rather delicate. He soon recovered. Nothing else eventful occurred to-day. The Prince came in thoroughly wet through, but he changed immediately, and took quinine j he is very well. We dined in the pandal. Early to-morrow we start for the kraal, in the Dehiowathe jungle, about seven miles distant from our camp. We slept pretty well, but it was like a vapour bath the air being saturated with moisture ; the thermometer was not above 80. We are here, nearly on the level of Colombo, I imagine. Monday, 6th December, 1875. Camp, Ruanwella, to shooting ground in Dehiowathe jungle. We had tea this morning at 6 a.m. before starting for the kraal. Aylesford, Beresford, Hall, Fisher, Varian and I went in a sort of drag ; the Prince, with Lord Suffield and Probyn, escorted by two of the Governor's body guard, were in a carriage, and the rest in other carriages. We crossed the Kalani river a broad and rapid stream in ferry boats. All the rivers are much swollen just now, owing to the continuous heavy rain. We drove for some miles along a good road, and then halted where a path turned to the left. Here we alighted, and found ponies and horses some rode, others went on foot. This road led to the jungle, where the kraal had been constructed in a dense forest in a ravine, between hills, with a stream flowing along the bottom. After proceed- ing a mile or so we came to a clear open space, near the stream where some tents were pitched. We passed these, and proceeding some distance further came to the kraal, a stockade of posts firmly bound together, and extending across the valley in a funnel shape, into which the elephants were to be driven. Hundreds of beaters were on the hills beyond the kraal, who were to drive the elephants by the noise of tom-toms into the enclosure. It is said there are two herds of elephants, and at least one large tusker among them. They are partially surrounded, and are to be driven towards the kraal, but before they enter it the Prince is to have a shot at them the tusker, if possible from a machan placed on a tree, or a rock. Varian and Fisher are to be near the Prince. At the entrance of the enclosure we found a strong bamboo platform from which one could look into the ravine down which the elephants must come. This was supported on strong poles, and calculated to stand even the rush of the elephants if they came against it. Here we waited, gathering such news as we could of the prospects of the elephants' coming. The beat had not yet begun, and the elephants probably were undisturbed, waiting for the Prince to arrive. When he did arrive after several hours' delay, we learned that somehow his carriage had passed the road leading to the kraal, and that he had gone along the road at a rapid pace for some miles. How he missed it it is difficult to understand, as there were people at the spot to indicate the road. The mistake having been discovered, Thackwell and some one else galloped after the Prince's carriage and brought it back to the right place, and H.R.H. soon found his way to the kraal. It was a most wild forest scene the palisade crossing the path impeded further progress. We waited at the platform until arrangements could be made for the Prince to proceed to the spot prepared for him to shoot from. The Prince having been taken through the jungle to his post, and with him a few other guns, the beat began. The jungle was so impenetrably thick that one could see only a few yards beyond the palisade of the kraal, and we anxiously expected the elephants They kept heading back, and it was long before anyone saw them. At last they came, and the Prince got a shot, but finding himself uncomfortably placed in the machan, he got down among the elephants. The tusker never made his appearance. The Prince had several shots among the jungle, and knocked over two elephants. We pressed in and found one good-sized dead elephant that had fallen in the stream. We all stood round it, and Sidney Hall made a sketch of the group. The tail was cut off, and arrangements were made for bringing away the feet and head. The other two got away in the very dense jungle, though severely wounded, probably they would be found afterwards. The Prince incurred some risk in the rush of the frightened elephants, but he was perfectly cool and collected, and not half as much excited as his guides. It had been raining all day, and was just getting dark as we left. H.R.H. had a change of clothes and some refreshments at the tents ; we then made for the road and got into carriages which took us on to Hangwella, where we camp for the night. We arrived in time for dinner in a bungalow; tents were pitched all around in a beautiful tope of trees. The Prince did not arrive till late, and then we heard that his carriage had been overturned into a ditch at Arrihavella. Fortunately no one was hurt, and they were rather amused at the accident, which might have been very serious. C. Beresford was on the box when the wagonnette upset Probyn, Aylesford and Fitz George were with the Prince inside. The carriage was broken and the harness had to be cut to get the horses out. Another was procured, and the Prince soon went on his way. On the road we met the post, and got our home letters. It was my birthday, and I got the letters referring to that interesting occasion on the very day. We reached Hangwella at about 8 p.m., and found dinner prepared in the bungalow, where the Prince also had rooms, whilst we were in the tents. This is one of the old Dutch or Portuguese forts of former days, and is on the Kalani river. It was from this very place that the Duke of Edinburgh set out on his elephant shooting expedi- tion some years ago; and here he planted trees, which are still thriving. I omitted to mention that the Prince of Wales planted a tree in the Paradenia Gardens. Sir W. Gregory was here to receive the Prince. It was close, damp, and sultry, but we got through the night fairly well. The early mornings are rather fresher, and the trees and vegetation look very pretty. Tuesday,, jth December. Left Hangwella for Colombo. We started early in the morning and drove 19 miles along a level road through rice fields, palm, cocoa-nut, jack, breadfruit trees, and a variety of other tropical vegetation, to Colombo, and arrived at Government House at about 10 a.m. We have all returned in good health; as yet no evil results from the wetting or the jungle have manifested themselves. But I find Grey laid up with liver congestion and fever; he had begun to feel ill at Kandy. Lord Suffield has sore throat and is feverish this, no doubt, is due to the exposure at Ruanwella. I have put them under treatment, and shall get them on board the Serapis as quickly as possible. We have rooms in Government House. Lord A. Paget's servant was seized with a sort of fainting fit, the result of indigestion, but soon recovered. There was a levee at Government House at I p.m., and after it the Prince and a party went to the agri-horticultural fete, arranged under Mr. Layard's auspices. I had made an engagement to meet a number of my old Calcutta pupils at Dr. Kinsey's house at lunch, so I drove there with him it is a pretty bungalow situated close to a cinnamon garden 59 and was most kindly received by him and Mrs. Kinsey. There were ten of my old pupils, all now civil medical officers in various parts of Ceylon, who had come together to meet me, and to take this oppor- tunity of making me a speech, referring to our former connexion at the College in Calcutta ; and to present me with a beautiful inkstand made of ebony, ivory, silver, and products of Ceylon, the ornaments being palm trees, elephants, cobras, and sambur deer. It was very gratifying, and I was much touched by their remembrance of me. I made a little speech in reply, thanking them and saying I was glad to see them all so prosperous. Dr. Koch is Principal of the Colombo Medical College. They also made me a number of little presents of Cingelese curiosities for my wife. Dr. Vanderstraten gave me a beautiful spotted Axis doe. I was much pleased with all this, and with Dr. and Mrs. Kinsey's kindness. In the evening there was a grand ball in a house specially con- structed for the purpose near the shore ; it was most beautifully decorated. I did not go, as I had one or two invalids to look after. I wrote home to-day, to Sir W. Jenner and others. At dinner a state dinner in full uniform, hatefully stuffy ! ! I sat next to Captain Douglas, R.N., who commands one of the ironclads. The thermometer ranges at about 80; very little change day and night. The air is damp and enervating, but the place is lovely and interesting, and I am told is not always so humid. At present there are not more than three or four degrees of dryness. I was sorry to miss the ball, but having been at work the whole day, I felt that it was better not to go, especially as one or two invalids were on my hands I am rather anxious about Grey : he does not stand the climate at all well. Macalister, the Duke's piper, is also ailing; he still suffers from his injured leg, and now is out of sorts internally. Macdonald seems right again. Wednesday, 8th December. Queen's House, Colombo. A hot, steamy day: thermometer 82; air very damp one is in a perpetual bath and prickly heat is troublesome After breakfast, I went with Dr. Kinsey to see the jail, which was very clean, and in beautiful order. Then the Civil Hospital and Medical School, which is con- ducted by my old pupils, who are the professors, physicians, and surgeons. I went over it with them, and promised to do my best when in Calcutta to get it affiliated by the university. I was very glad to visit this institution, and to see my former pupils so usefully engaged, and to hear them all so well spoken of. The school seems to be thriving. I had a note sent to me by a Mr. Mackwood, from my sister Annie, but I was unable to go and see him, as I had not a spare moment. The Prince went to see some coir, and other works. I accom- panied Dr. K. to see the agri-horticultural exhibition. They had several wild animals of Ceylon there, and a collection of snakes, which rather interested me : Trimeresurus anamallensis and T. strigatus, an alligator and a dugong ; the latter had just died. At 5 p.m. the Prince, with his suite, the Governor, and the authorities went in state, to lay the foundation stone of a new break- water, and made a very appropriate speech. The town and the site of the stone were gaily decorated with flags and evergreens. We returned to dine at Queen's House, and at 9.30 p.m. went on board the Serapis it was rather stormy going off in the barges. Grey had been sent on board : he and Lord S., and the other patients are rather better. fco I find that my old pupils had sent on board several pretty little Ceylon curiosities as souvenirs. Dr. Kinsey was kind enough to undertake the purchase of some Ceylon ornaments, to be sent after me to England. It is decided that we go to Tuticorin in the Serapis, and thence rapidly by rail to Madras. The reports are rather better of the cholera on the way, but I am not easy about it. However, if we are to go to Madras at all it seems the only way, for they say that landing from the Serapis at Madras would be very difficult, if not impossible, at this season, on account of the surf. All that can be done is to take the greatest precautions as we travel, stopping as little as possible on the way. The visit to Ceylon has been very interesting, and as satisfactory as could be, considering the weather and the rain. I shall be anxious for some days to see how the jungle air, and the damp may have affected any of the party. The Prince is well. Thursday, tyh December, Serapis, at sea, en route for Tuticorin from Colombo. The Serapis and Osborne left for Tuticorin at I this morning ; the Raleigh, Narcissus and Immortalite passed Galle en route southwards, later ; the Undaunted, Daphne and Newcastle remained in harbour. It is determined that we are to land at Tuticorin and go by the new railway, which is to be opened by the Prince, to Madras. There has been no formal conference to decide this ; how- ever, we must make the best of it. I have said all that is possible on the subject ! There is a fresh breeze and a good deal of sea ; the ports are closed on both sides of the ship thermometer is 83. Grey is better, and has had no return of fever. Lord Suffield is still suffering trom a relaxed sore throat and feverishness ; he has certainly caught it in the Ruanwella swamps he is under treatment. The N.E. monsoon is blowing freshly, and the sea is rough. We are to arrive at Tuticorin this evening. Friday, loth December. This morning we are lying off Tuticorin, but cannot get within several miles of the shore from want of water. Boats are coming alongside, and baggage being sent on shore. Mr. Robinson, Acting-Governor of Madras, and other officials, have come on board, and among them Dr. Lestock Stewart, D.S. General, who is to give me information as to health. The weather is still rather stormy, and it has been so bad at sea that the small country steamer in which the " special correspondents " have come, has had a very bad time of it. Early in the morning I was sitting on the front of the poop, when something passed me falling from aloft, shooting down the main rigging like a flash of lightning. I saw it was a man, and that he went over the side. I ran there immediately to see where he had fallen, and saw that he had struck the rail of the little landing port at the entrance gangway, and fallen inside on the platform, quite doubled up. I went down to the next deck and pulled him in ; he was quite unconscious. He had fallen from the main rigging, gone over the side, struck against the gangway rail on the deck below, and fallen inside the platform. No bones were broken, but he was in a profound state of concussion. He was taken to the sick-bay and placed under treatment. After breakfast we landed in a small steamer, used for looking after the pearl fishery. We had to board her from the steam launch, in a heavy swell. The little steamer was rolling almost gunwale under, and we got rather wet. The distance from the landing-place 6, is about six miles, but the water is too shallow for large ships to come nearer with safety. This, I should think, must militate against the success of Tuticorin as a port. We landed in the usual state flags, procession, and an address ! The pandal and decorations were very pretty, and the crowd, as usual, very great. In the pandal where the address was read, and a casket presented to H.R.H., there were specimens of pearls, shells, elephant tusks, and horns, laid out for in- spection on a table. We walked to the station, which was close at hand. The Prince pronounced the line open, and we started in a train composed of fifteen varnished carriages. The country here is flat and uninteresting. The people, especially the women of the lower classes in the fields and among the crowds at the station, struck me as being a finer and stronger race than the Bengalees, and the same class of women in the N.W. provinces of India. We left Lord Suffield and Grey on board the Serapis, under Dr. Watson and Dr. Wood's care, as they were not well enough to ac- company us on the land journey to Madras^ but will meet us there, as the ship is going round immediately. The others are well, and go with the Prince. I am sorry to say that, in getting out of the Serapis into the steam launch, the Prince knocked his leg during the rolling of the ship, and grazed the skin. He is very well in other respects, and seems to stand climate and fatigue as well, if not better, than any of the party. We got into our train without delay, and were off at 10 a.m. under great demonstrations of loyalty and enthusi- asm from the crowd. We halted at Maniachi, 18 or 20 miles from Tuticorin, and in- spected a great gathering of native Christian children of the Tinnevelly Mission. It is said there were 12,000 present, besides 1,000 boys and girls from the schools of the S.P.G. and C.M.S. Missions. The children, boys, young men, young girls and women were paraded and presented to the Prince by the Rev. Dr. Caldwell, Dr. Sargeant, with other clergymen, and ladies. They all looked very clean and neat, and sang " God Save the Queen." Dr. Caldwell read an address to the Prince, who made a reply, which I hear was written by Sir B. Frere. The Prince was presented with a Bible and Prayer-book in Tamul ; the children sang in the same language. The girls presented some lace for the Princess, made by themselves. The visit was very interesting, and H.R.H. was much pleased. We spent nearly an hour there, then got into our train and proceeded. Dr. Stewart travels with me, and I am getting all the information I can. It is evident that cholera is still about, though there is less than there has been, in the line of our route ; clearly the best is being made of it ! I fear I am looked on as an obstructive, though the Governor, Mr. Robinson, is very much of my opinion, and declined to accept of any responsibility, if the Prince land at Beypore. Dr. Stewart also agrees with me. We arrived at Madura about 5 p.m., and found grand prepara- tions made for the reception. Mr. Bliss, the collector, and other officials were present; the Maharajah of Pooderattah and other native gentlemen. On arriving at the station the Prince broke a bottle of champagne on the engine that brought us, and called it the " Alexandra." There was a procession through the crowded city to the collector's house, where the Prince is lodged for the night. Some of the party are in tents, others in a bungalow; I have a tent close to 62 the Prince. The house is beautifully situated on an eminence and overlooks the Great Tank, which has a temple in its centre. This and the city and houses generally, were beautifully illuminated. The town of Madura is very picturesque, the people quiet and orderly, a fine race, especially the women, who seem stronger, larger, and better dressed than the lower classes in the N.W. of India. We dined in the Prince's bungalow, and after dinner there were fire- works and illumination of the tank and temple, and a nautch on a chabootra. Some of the girls were pretty, well dressed, and decorated with real flowers. They danced with more spirit than the Delhi and Lucknow girls, though to the same kind of music ; they all departed early. The night was fine, and, relatively, cool 76. The reception here has been very well managed, and gave the Prince much pleasure. In the evening I examined and dressed the abrasion on his leg. Saturday ', nth December, Madura. Early this morning the Prince visited the Great Temple and Teramull Naik's Palace, where it is proposed to erect a statue of the Queen. The dome of the palace is 75 feet high. The weather is fine, but warm; thermometer over 80. The great temple is one of the grandest pieces of Hindoo architecture I have seen. We went all over it, through the colon- nades and past the shrines, and were decorated with necklaces of gilt tinsel, and flowers the Prince was covered with them. A special dress of honour was presented to him. It was cool in the temple. I omitted to notice that we had breakfast at the Tuticorin railway station yesterday before starting, and lunch at one of the stations on the way. Lord Aylesford is beginning to complain of his throat a souvenir of Ceylon ! We drove from the temple to the railway station, where breakfast was prepared, and started for Trichinopoly at 9.30 a.m., where we arrived at 2 p.m. In a prettily decorated pandal, at the railway station, the ladies and principal residents of the station were assem- bled. I saw Edith H., and had just time to shake hands with her before we were driven off to our quarters in the civil station. The Prince is in Mr. Webster's house; I also had a room there, but gave it up to Aylesford, who was ill with fever and sore throat, and went into a bungalow with Beresford and Knollys. There was the usual ceremony : salute, music, a guard of honour and escort for the Prince. Soon after reaching the bungalow (after lunch) the Prince, Admiral Macdonald, and most of the suite drove off to see the Temple of Sreenugger, one of the great Hindoo shrines. I did not go as Aylesford required looking after, so remained with him, applied caustic to his throat, and gave him remedies for the fever. In the afternoon I drove over with Mr. Webster to see the Hendersons. Mr. Webster had erected a beautiful pandal, arranged most tastefully among other things there were doves cut out of solah on the beautifully decorated pillars. Here we had a dinner party, and at 9.30 the ladies of the station came, and we had a dance. The Prince danced with Edith and other ladies, and seemed to enjoy himself. I looked on, but did not dance. I was feeling depressed and weary, had a slight sore throat, and was feverish. Mr. D., of the India Office, who had come up with us from Tuticorin, fainted, and I went to the rescue. The damp, muggy heat had exhausted him, and he had been ailing. I am thankful that the Prince keeps well. I should mention that Col. Michael, who left us at Beypore, has joined us again. Dr. Stewart tells me that cholera is declining, and the cases are less severe. He thinks there is little danger now, but I am in a constant state of anxiety, as may be imagined, with so many fresh Europeans and such a large retinue of people about us. Sunday, 12th December, Trichinopoly. The address at Madura was enclosed in a gold casket. Mr. Webster, our host, is the judge ; Mr. Sewell, the collector; Brigadier-General Williams, the officer commanding the station. At the Nawab's palace an address was presented It reminded H.R.H. that it was here that Clive and Lawrence laid the foundation of the British Empire in India. The Prince made a suitable reply. Some Trichinopoly jewellery, with gold and silver ornaments, with a silver casket, were presented by the inhabitants. Mr. Duckworth read service in Mr. Webster's house. I went to breakfast with the Hendersons. E. gave me a card case for B., and undertook to procure me some gold and silver sowamy ornaments, and to send them to meet me at Bombay. We start for Madras, at 4 30 p.m. There was an illumination of the Rock of Trichino- poly, which is over 300 feet high ; near it one of dive's battles was fought; the house he lived in was pointed out. I did not see this, being detained with Aylesford, who, I am glad to say, is better to-day. Before leaving Trichinopoly we had an opportunity of seeing cigars manufactured. The men were brought down to our camp, and worked before us ; they do it very rapidly and well. The famous Trichinopolies are now made in the cigar form, not in the old elongated fashion, with a straw through them. The tobacco is good, but coarse, though not strong, and contains much saltpetre. They are wonder- fully cheap ten rupees a thousand, and beautifully packed in wooden boxes. We proceeded to the station with the usual ceremony, and took leave of our Trichinopoly friends at 4.30. We are now on a broader gauge ; arrived at Erode about 8 p.m., and had dinner in the upper rooms of the station house. It was remarkably well ar- ranged ; how such excellent preparations are made in out-of-the- way places is wonderful ! In coming down stairs my foot or spur (always in uniform) caught in the floor cloth, and 1 came down head first to the bottom of a whole flight of stairs, but was not hurt; only a little shaken. We got into our train, Duckworth and I in the same carriage. Carrington, who always looks after me, lent me a pillow, as my own had been mislaid, and I slept well the greater part of the night. At a station where we stopped about 7 a.m. we began to get ready for arrival at Madras. We were rather late as the axles were heated, and it appears we had to stop twice on that account during the night. We had tea, toast, and fruit, and put on full-dress uniform, ready for the reception at Madras. We shall soon become quite expert at dressing and undressing in trains. However, as the carriages are saloons, and we have plenty of room, with a place to wash in, it is not difficult. Monday, \^th December. Arrived at Royapooram Station, at about 8 a.m. The Duke of Buckingham and his staff, the members of Council, judges, great civil and military officers ; several native princes and chiefs, among them those of Cochin, Travancore, Arcot, and Vizianagram, with the usual crowd of spectators. The station was decorated ; there was a guard of honour, salutes, and a cavalry escort. In the confusion I missed my carriage, and it drove off without me. I saw an old friend, Sir Walter Morgan, the Chief Justice, with Mr. Carmichael, in a carriage; they were to form part of the procession, and were kind enough to take me to Government House. It was- a great ovation. The decorated streets, houses, windows and balconies were crowded, and excellent order prevailed : it was not so picturesque, but quite as hearty a welcome as at Bombay. The ships in the road- stead were dressed ; the men-of-war saluted. On the way numbers of school children were arranged in order to greet the Prince. The route lay through Jumboo Chetty-street and the Esplanade. The day was cloudy, and consequently not so very hot. The Prince reached Government House in time for breakfast, and was received by the Duke, the three Ladies Grenville, Lady Anna Gore Langton, and Miss Gore Langton. An address from the municipality was read at the railway station before the procession formed. On arriving at Government House we were distributed some in the house (I have one of the A.D.C.'s rooms), some in detached bungalows, and some in tents. All that is possible to make everyone comfortable has been done, and our reception is most kind. We were presented to the Duke and to the ladies, and then went to breakfast. At I p.m. there was a levee in the banqueting hall, a detached building. Some hundreds of European and native officials and gentlemen were presented, including many of the great native chiefs. At the levee I was standing near the Prince, and saw some old friends pass. There had been a reception of the chiefs of Travancore, Arcot, Cochin and others, in the Government House before the Iev6e, at noon. After the levee, we had lunch, and I then went to the Agra Bank to see A., who drove me along the beach to the Madras Club, then to Government House. After dinner the Duke of Buckingham and the Prince, with some of the suite, drove out to Guindy, where we are to spend a day or two. The weather is cooler; thermometer down to 74 in the night, but very hot during the day; and this is their cold season ! What must the hot be ! There are complaints from Bangalore and Ooticumund that the Prince has not gone there. They had made great preparations, but it was impossible to have gone by the original route from Beypore, and it is said there will not be time now. The whole of the Presidency is infected with cholera, and though it is not bad in Madras just now, there is no doubt it has been so. I hear that cases of cholera actually occurred in or near our camp at Madura when we were there, among either the police or the sepoys, or, at all events, among some of the people in attendance. This was not reported to me. We drove out to Guindy after dinner ; the night was fine and moderately cool ; part of the suite, Col. Michael, the Governor and some of his staff with us. Tuesday, iepoy pensioners and others of the garrison drawn up near us. Sir G. Couper then made an excellent address, in which he spoke of the fidelity of those native officers and men who remained and fought with us. H.R.H. made a touching reply, and then the survivors were pre- sented to him by Cubitt, Birch and myself. I stood by the Prince's G 86 side and introduced those I knew as they passed. There were some of my own garrison all looked very aged and worn. They were much gratified, and several tried native-like to take the opportunity of asking for something more. God knows they got little enough ! Ungud, our news-carrier, was conspicuous among them. After this was over, and the stone laid, a Royal salute was fired. We then drove through the Residency to the Muchee Bhowan and to the Arsenal in Asoph-ood Dowlahis Imaumbarah, the largest building in the world, I believe, with a roof unsupported by pillars. We drove home through the new roads that intersect the city, which is hardly recognisable by an old resident. The Prince got a good idea of the place, the Residency, the relative positions of the bridges, and various parts of the city. We dressed for dinner, and then went to the grand fete given by the Talookdars in the Kaiser Bagh. The weather is quite cold, especially at night, in the tents. Thermometer last night 42, but it rises to 70 and 74 in the day. We are all well. I am writing letters as opportunity occurs it is difficult with so many interruptions to Lady M., home, and to others. The fete at the Kaiser Bagh was very gorgeous with fireworks, illuminations and music. There were crowds of people, and a great crush in the Barradurrie. The Talookdars were all in gala dress. They presented an address and some presents, a crown among other things, to H.R.H. There was a supper, and all, including the music and the lighting, was grand in the extreme. The air was rather heavy with the smell of sulphur and other pyrotechnic products ; the heat of crowded rooms, the noise of music and salutes, and the crush of perfumed Nawabs, Rajahs, and Talookdars, made the cold night air and the bright, starry sky pleasant enough to go home by. The city was beautifully illuminated ; they have always known how to do this well, and on the whole the native fete was most successful. I should say that there had been some nautches, but they were very little seen in the crowded assembly. I was glad to get to bed, as we were to be off early next morning by rail to Oonao on a hog-hunting expedition. There is much that is fatiguing in the mental strain that attends such proceedings as those of the last two or three days, especially when they include such associations and memories as mine. The changes from the heat of the day to the cold of nights are also trying, whilst the dust is disagreeable. We are all well, I am glad to say. The Prince occasionally says, it is too cold ! January 8th, 1876, Lucknow. We were up pretty early this morning, and off at 7.30 by train for Oonao near Cawnpore, on this side of the Ganges ; where a camp has been prepared about five miles from that station, where elephants, horses, and beateis are as- sembled, ours having been sent on. The Prince was escorted by a guard of Hussars to the Char Bagh Station, where the railway officials were in attendance. The train left about 8 o'clock, and we had tea en route. On arriving at Oonao we found dog-carts, breaks, and carriages waiting. I got into one of the breaks, drawn by artillery horses, and we went off at a gallop over a cutcha road. We had not gone far before the springs of our carriage (there were several per- sons in it) broke down, and we came to a standstill. I jumped into another, and went on. Some followed on elephants, camels, or horses, and we soon got over the five or six miles that separated us from the camp at Sekunderpore, where the hunt was to begin. We found break- 87 fast prepared in the tents, and after it we mounted and rode to the ground. As I thought it better to keep my eye on the others, I went on an elephant, and had Hardinge near me with bandages, splints, &c., that might be necessary in case of accident. The hunt was over grassy plains ; the grass, in some places, long and interspersed with patches of cover, low brushwood, with nullahs here and there. The sport was fair, there were some good runs, and ten boars were killed. The Prince got his share of the first spears, and rode one of his English horses well and hard. I was very anxious as I watched him, particularly as the ground was broken and rough, and some falls oc- curred. At one time I saw a loose horse galloping in the distance when the hunt had got far away from my elephant it turned out to be Sidney Hall's, who, being a light-weight, did not hurt himself when his horse fell. All went well till the afternoon when, in a sharp gallop after a boar, Carrington's horse came down just as he took the spear, and the result was a broken collar-bone. I was on the spot in a few minutes, and applied a figure of eight bandage. We then carried him to the shade of some babool trees, where tiffin was prepared. He was rather faint from the shock, but bore it well, and was very plucky. We sent for a dhooly, in which he was carried back to camp, where I finally dressed him. Beyond the bruise and the fractured collar- bone, no harm was done. He will remain in camp with Colonel Williams and Dr. Brown will come from Lucknow to take care of him for the present. We shall pick him up at Oonao, as we go to Cawnpore, on Monday next. Lord Suffield also got a blow in the neck from the butt of his spear, but it was not serious. Probyn's chestnut horse had been rather badly cut near the hock by a pig. I tied a bleeding artery, and told the stud-groom, Prince, to apply cold-water dressing. We drove to Oonao at a rapid pace, got into our train and back to Lucknow by 7 p.m. After dinner the Prince and the suite went to a ball given by the Residents at the Chutter Munzil. It was very full, and I met many old friends, among others Mrs. Kavanagh and her daughters. Kavanagh got the Victoria Cross at Lucknow for going out through the city during the siege. He was not at the Residency yesterday, having purposely kept away, as he is in some trouble with the authorities about his appointment. It was a. pity he was absent ! I danced, walked and talked with old friends. How all is changed and changing since the siege ! This house was full of dead sepoys when Outram relieved us in 1857. Sunday, gth January. This morning I drove with Sam Brown, Probyn and Lord A. P. to the old Muriaon Cantonments, and went over the old ground. It is so changed that one makes out the old familiar spots with the greatest difficulty. The houses and the church have disappeared; even the roads are altered, and the parade grounds and old gardens are fields ; a fragment of a wall or a bit of gate or pillar here and there, mark the site of the old houses complete desolation prevails. I could just make out the spot where my wife's father lived, where the church in which I was married stood ; the old chabootra or band-stand, still remains, to indicate how the bearing of the place should lie. It was a fine, bright morning, and reminded me of the days before 1857, when I used to ride up here from the city in the mornings. How changed all is the place, the people, and my- self, too ! And what numbers are gone ! Everywhere I meet with something to remind me of friends passed away since the sad days of the siege. We went to the old burial ground to look at the grave of a friend of Sam Brown's, who was killed during the Mutiny, and found it sadly dilapidated. We drove back over the old familiar road and through the changed city, to breakfast, after which I went to church, near the Chief Commissioner's house, where Dr. Spencer, the chaplain, preached on the Epiphany. I then went to see some of my friends Wishaws', Camerons' and others. After lunch the Prince, the Duke of Sutherland and some of the suite, with Sir G. Couper, drove to the Residency. We got out at my old house, and went over it. I pointed out my room, and the spot where Sir H. Lawrence lay, and where he died; where the ladies lived, and where many interesting events took place. The Prince was deeply interested We then went all over the site of the old defences, each place was pointed out, and each garrison explained. The Prince ascended to the top of the Residency tower, from which he had a beautiful view of the country, and of the line of approach through the city of Outram and Havelock's force. He went into the Tye Khana, and, in short, saw all, from beginning to end. We visited the churchyard, and there saw Sir H. L.'s tomb, with its simple inscription : " Here lies HENRY LAWRENCE, Who tried to do his duty." The Prince asked many questions, which Sir G. Couper and I replied to ; here also he seemed much interested ! I little thought in 1857 that I should live to show the ruins of my house to the Prince of Wales ! Much of it is still standing, but the roof and the floor are gone. I tried to find the old tally I kept on the wall of my 14 killed and 40 wounded, but the plaster had fallen away. The shot and shell marks still remain, showing how it was battered, but in many places these have disappeared by the crumbling of the walls. I gathered a few flowers to send to my wife from her old home. The Residency is kept in beautiful order, and is a striking memorial, but the ruins look old so old, one can hardly realize that they were once smiling and happy homes of some who are still quite young. The events of that evil time look so far back in the past that they hardly seem to belong to the present generation ! And yet, as I stood at the door of my ruined house, the past seemed to come so near that I could have imagined myself once more in my old place, and that I was about to mount my horse or get into my carriage and drive to cantonments ! I felt, as I have always felt on revisiting my house, how much cause I have to be thankful ; and how many there are who still live, only to look back to the time and place as among the saddest of their recollections. I lost all my property, and many valued things ; but I saved those who were dearest to me. Thank God, no grave there at least, holds any of my loved ones ! Dined with the Wishaws'. The day has been beautiful hot in the sun, but cool out of it. Last night the thermometer did not go below 54. 8 9 Monday, loth January, 1876, Lucknow. I went to see the Bulrampore Hospital with Dr. Wishaw ; it is under the charge of my old house surgeon, Essan Chunder Ghose. Visited the Residency and my old house again, probably for the last time in my life. After breakfast there was a grand parade, where the Prince pre- sented colours to the I4th Foot, Col. Hawley. We returned to lunch, and then started by train from the Char Bagh Station for Cawnpore. The officials and native chiefs were at the station, the usual salutes were fired, bands played, and other honours were paid to the Prince. On arriving at Oonao we found Carrington and Williams waiting. They joined us, and we went on to Cawnpore. C. is doing very well; the bandages have remained firm, and he is free from pain. The distance from Lucknow to Cawnpore is only about 50 miles. There is now a bridge. When we crossed in 1857, after the relief, we spent hours on the bridge of boats, under fire from the mutineers, who were attacking Wyndham, whom we had made a long forced march to relieve. We went to see the memorial church, built on the site of Wheeler's old entrenchment. Many a familiar name of old friends and acquaintances I read on the tablets in the wall. I remember going over the entrenchment in 1857, when it was just as Wheeler left it, with relics of the occupants scattered about; I picked up one the back of a piece of music, entitled, " All Worldly Shapes shall Melt in Gloom !" We went thence to the garden and the memorial well, a most sad and touching sight ; thence to the places near it, where so many of those who fell in the rebFeat- to Cawnpore died. I gathered a few flowers to send home, and we then drove to Mr. Prinsep's, the judge's house, to dinner. The bungalow is situated on a high bank overlooking the Ganges, and in the evening light the view of the river was very beautiful. Some of the party went to see the Ghat, where the people were massacred by the Nana in that evil year of 1857. I returned to the railway to look after Carrington, who had been left in the railway carriage, and found him very comfortable, and well cared for by his servant, he had all that he wanted. Returning to the judge's house, we soon after drove to the station for Delhi : illuminations, guards of honour, music and officials in attendance, as usual. The weather is fine, the air clear and bright, beautiful starlight; the nights cold so cold that one is glad of any amount of covering. We are well, except an occasional trifling ailment. The Prince has got over his cold and sore throat, does not now complain of the swelling in the leg, and seems to enjoy everything greatly. Tuesday, nth January, en route to Delhi from Cawnpore. An early breakfast at Ghazeabad ; dressed in uniform to enter Delhi, where we arrived about 9 a.m. Great preparations at the station for the reception of the Prince guards of honour, salutes fired, with a crowd of Europeans and natives of all ranks ; a procession partly equestrian, partly in carriages to our camp beyond the ridge. We passed through the Chandney Chouk, past the Palace, and through the Lahore Gate. The road the whole way was lined by troops of all descriptions, about 18,000 altogether. It was a most picturesque and varied scene, from the variety of costumes native and European and the different uniforms of the infantry, cavalry, irregulars, artillery, with camels and elephants. The road was very dusty, as may be imagined. We passed along the ridge, over the scene of the fighting in 1857, by Hindu Rao's house, the flag-staff, lines and other familiar places, and reached our camp, which adjoins that of the great army now assembled, and near the site of the old cantonments before 1857. This is a great camp, a street of double-poled tents, a Durbar tent, with the Royal tent at the head of the street, and in front of it the Royal Standard is flying. Our tents were very much like those we had at Benares, and behind them are several for officers and others belonging to the Prince's camp. Dr. Kellett, of the Artillery, is now on our staff as sanitary officer in charge of the camp. He will remain with us here, and will join us again when we go to the Terai, after returning from the Punjab and Jummoo. We had a large party at lunch, and after it the Prince held a levee, which was very numerously attended; the Commander-in- Chief, Lord Napier, and all the high civil and military officers were there. Lord Napier is suffering from a broken collar-bone, the result of a fall with his horse. He won't lay up, and goes about with his arm bandaged it must cause him considerable suffering. In the evening I rode out with Prince Louis of Battenburg, and went to see my old friends General and Mrs. D. Stewart and their daughters ; Stewart commands one of the four divisions of the Delhi army. Dined in camp, and then went to an evening party at Lord Napier's, where I met many old friends. His camp is not very far from the Prince's. The days are hot and dusty, but the nights bright and cold. The thermometer fell below 39 last night in the tents. The air is dry, the camp generally very healthy. I inspected Dr. Kellett's sanitary arrangements, and they seem excellent; he will report to me any case of sickness in the camp. Carrington has borne the journey well, and has little pain. I examine his bandages frequently : they have not moved. There are a few slight cases of internal derangement, owing to the changes of temperature, but on the whole we are very healthy. General Bubber Jung, a son of Sir Jung Bahador, is suffering 1 from dysentery. He was appointed A.D.C. to the Prince on leaving Calcutta. He is a young Nepaulese of about 25 years of age, and went to Calcutta as the Nepaulese representative. There is neither cholera nor epidemic disease. Kellett is a most excellent, energetic fellow, looks well after the camp and reports all that occurs. Wednesday, I2lh January, Delhi. Early this morning the thermometer in my tent was 38 it must have been very near freezing point during the night. We have fire-places, as we had at Benares. After visiting Carrington and one or two others with slight ailments, before breakfast, I accompanied the Prince, in full dress, to a review. The whole force about 20,000 men was out in four divisions. The troops manoeuvred very well, and elicited much admiration from the Prince and all the spectators. The irregular cavalry showed to great advantage. After the review the Prince presented colours to the iith, formerly the 7Oth N.I., one of the few faithful regiments during the mutiny of 1857. The review was very interesting and a magnificent sight, but it was rather tiring, and I was glad to get back to camp out of the volumes of dust. As I had some work to do I did not go any- where else, but rode straight back to my tent, and took oft my full dress. The day was bright and clear, the air dry and cold, the sun's rays hot. It is a trying climate from these very extremes ; the face and hands are chapped, and partly peeled by it. A cold in the head makes me feel uncomfortable. The Prince, Lord Suffield, Probyn and some of the suite went to lunch with the loth Hussars. In the evening I took a quiet ride on one of the State elephants along the ridge, past Hindoo Rao's house, back by Metcalf's house and past the Commander-in-ChiePs camp. I was quietly looking at the sites and points of view of the great city lying below that were so interesting to our army encamped here in 1857 ! We had a dinner party in camp. The Prince entertained all the generals and other high officers concerned in the proceedings of to-day. After dinner we went to a ball given to the Prince in the Dewan Khas, in the fort. Perhaps Hafiz's* couplet written on the wall never spoke more truly than on this occasion The decorations of the ancient hall of audience were splendid, the lighting and all that could conduce to beauty and splendour were admirably arranged. The crowd was great, people not only from Delhi, but from many far-off stations were there. The dancing was spirited, and continued to a late hour. There was a supper, with which, I am told, the givers of the entertainment were not quite pleased, and found fault with the contractors I did not wait for it, so cannot speak from experience ; I can only say that what I saw seemed all that could be desired. I came away with Sir Bartle and Lord Alfred, and enjoyed the bright starlight and keen air as we drove back to camp. The Prince remained till the ball was nearly over. The night felt very cold; thermometer down nearly to freezing point capital weather for making ice ; by exposing water in little earthenware dishes laid out on straw in the still, clear nights, when there are no clouds to stop radiation, and no wind, ice is thus artificially formed even when the thermometer is some degrees above freezing point. It is gathered in the mornings, beaten into masses, and preserved in ice pits until the summer. Wenham Lake ice now comes in great quantities to Bombay and Calcutta, and is carried by rail all over the country, and is wonderfully cheap, we are seldom without it anywhere ! Thursday, i^th January, 1876, camp, Delhi. It was very cold last night; Lord S. and Captain G. are threatened with dysentery, the results of the changes of temperature. One or two of the others are troubled with slight ailments I shall remain at home to-day to look after them. The Prince is going to drive to the Kootub ; I should like to go there again, but shall not, as it would keep me away all day. The camp is healthy ; no cholera at least, none reported to me. Weather bright and clear; cold nights, but hot in the tents during the daytime; air dry and parching. Numbers of shawl, jewel and picture merchants in camp ; I am making a few small purchases and am also busy with home letters. Dined with the loth Hussars, encamped near us. Aylesford is laid up, but his indisposition is not severe. I write frequently to the mothers, wives, or sisters of my companions to report on their health. * Agur firdous be rui zamin ust ! Hameen list ! hameen ust ! o hameen ust If there is a paradise on earth It is this ! it is this ! oh, it is this ! 92 This I promised to do before I left England ; no doubt it is a satisfac- tion to them to have my reports. Friday, \& f th January. Thermometer fell to 34 last night; it is a bright, clear day. Visited all the hospital and sanitary arrange- ments, and saw a patient with Dr. Kellett. Despatched my home letters and papers. The Prince accompanied by his suite and many of the staff, rode out to see one part of the Delhi force, commanded by General Hardinge, attack the other, which, under General Reid, is to defend the ridge and the approach to it. We were in the saddle great part of the after- noon, galloping about watching different manoeuvres, and points of attack. It ended in General Reid's force maintaining its position. It must have been interesting to some of the party who were here at the real fighting in 1857. I rode my grey Arab, and he carried me well. We went over much ground, and some of it was rather rough the Prince rode his English horse, Coomassie. Dined with Lord Napier, Commander-in-chief, and at dinner met many old friends. The chief himself is one of the oldest ; he came into my house at the relief of Lucknow, in 1857, shot through the leg; Outram with him, shot through the arm. The day was beautiful, and galloping about on the sham battle field was exhilarating. Saturday, \<>th January. Saw General Bubber Jung with Kellett this morning ; he is suffering sharply from dysentery, and is not very discreet. I gave very strict injunctions to the old Nepaulese Colonel, who is with him, as to what should be done. Went with the Prince and suite, and the General, to see the continuation of the sham-fight, and rode many miles across country. General Hardinge's force could not overcome General Reid's. We returned about 4 p.m., and had a picnic in a tope of trees there were many ladies present. Lords S., C., A. and G. are better; Sir B. F. has had a bad cold, but he is better. The alternations of temperature are very trying, but the health of the camp is good ! Dined with the Rifle Brigade this evening; Duckworth and others of the suite were there also. There was a circus performance given by some of the Hussars in a tent prepared for the purpose ; the Prince and some of the suite, I believe, honoured it with their presence I did not go. Sunday, \>th January > 1876. Cloudy night; thermometer did not fall below 44. The air feels much milder, and not so parching and dry. My invalids are all doing well. Service in open air in camp, with a large military attendance ; the Prince and suite, Commander-in- Chief and staff also present my old friend Adams preached. I met Dr. Mazuchelli, another old Calcutta friend, at the service. Letters from home; all well. Telegraphed to tell my wife that our second boy is to leave Rugby and go to the Rev. Mr. Smith's, where D's. boy was so well trained. Wrote home, and to friends. Warm day ; cloudy ; air damp ; a few drops of rain fell. General Bubber Jung is still very ill. I have bought some Delhi pictures, Rampore Chudders, and ornaments, &c. Went to dine with General and Mrs. D. Stewart in their camp in the 4th Division. Met General Crawford Chamberlain, Sir H. Daly, T. Hope and two Miss Stewarts. I rode to the camp on a fine tusker elephant named Furudun. Monday, 17 th January. Cloudy night; thermometer 45. This morning the Prince inspected the cavalry, and especially the loth 93 Hussars j the brigade was commanded by Col. J. Watson, C B., V.C. H.R.H. was much pleased with their appearance and work. G. is still suffering from dysenteric symptoms, and is laid up in his tent. Rubber Jung is worse ; Lord C.B. has an inflamed leg. I was knocked up last night to take something out of Major Clarke's eye. Weather beautifully fine and clear again. Went to see soldiers' games tent- pegging, sworri exercise and races. Dined in our own camp ; some of the party dined with the Commander-in-Chief. We leave Delhi at 9.40 p.m. by train for Lahore Glyn is not well enough to go; he remains with Col. Greathead, and will be well looked after. The station was illuminated, and there were fireworks, guard of honour and salutes. Many people, including ladies, were at the station to see the Royal train start. We were off at about 10 p.m., and made ourselves comfortable in the saloon carriages with blankets and resais, the night being cold. I slept pretty well, though it was cold and draughty, and was hardly conscious of the various stoppages. We arrived at Umritsur at about 8.40 a.m. ; it was cold, and there was hoar frost on the ground Tuesday, i8M January, Umritsur. We had chota hazari, and put on full dress to enter Lahore, where we arrived at about 9.40 a.m. The station was decorated; the Lieut. -Governor Sir H. Davies, with military and civil authorities and native chiefs were waiting to receive the Prince. We drove in procession to Government House, passing the encampments of the native chiefs, pitched along the roadside. They had elephants, troops and followers drawn up, and were all waiting the Prince's arrival. The road wound round the fort, and the sight was most interesting, with the elephants in their gay coloured trappings, the camels, sowars and every variety of native troops ; salutes were fired and bands played as the Prince passed. There were great crowds of natives along the whole route. The forts, the mosques and minarets looked very picturesque, and the groups of elephants and attendants in front of each chief's camp were most imposing. Each chief was seated on his elephant, and rose and salaamed as the Prince passed. We had breakfast soon after arriving at Government House, where the Prince was received by Sir Henry and Lady Davies then a numerously attended levee, and a reception of native chiefs. An address from the municipality was read, and presented in a rich casket. About thirteen native chiefs were presented with the usual ceremonies, a salute, according to his rank, being fired for each. There was the Nawab of Bhawalpore, the Rajahs of Fureedkote, of Chumba, of Mundi, of Sukeet, Sirdar of Kulsia, Nawabs of Patowdi, of Loharoo, of Dojarra, Rajahs Shumshir Sing, of Goler ; of Maler Kotla, of Kupurthulla, of Nabha, and, I think, some others, but I do not remember their names. After lunch we drove to the central jail and saw all the arrangements and the manufactures carpets, clothes, towels of the prisoners. We also visited the Thuggie Department, and several noted old Thugs, whose lives had been spared on turning approvers that is who saved their lives on condition of betraying others were brought before the Prince. They can hardly be considered prisoners now, and some of them are most venerable and respectable- looking old gentlemen. One or two of them told us how many lives they had taken with the Rumal (handkerchief), and one showed 94 how the strangling process was affected, and exhibited it, with a handkerchief, on my arm instead of a neck giving it such a wrench that I felt it for days afterwards. Several prisoners one or two Europeans or East Indians, whose conduct had been good during their confinement were liberated at the Prince's request ; about twenty-five men and twelve women (natives) were released. Some purchases of manufactures were made. We then drove to the fort, went over it and the citadel ; Runjeet Sing's house and the Sheesh Mahul, where there is a beautiful view of the plain on the banks of the river, where Runjeet used to review his troops, and where, perhaps, Alexander's troops may have exercised. There was a glorious view of the distant snowy ranges from the roof. The sun setting over Runjeet's Tomb and the Badshahi Mosque, was very beautiful. We dined at Government House at 8 p.m. Lord S. is laid up with symptoms of dysentery. Put him regularly under treatment in bed. The day cold, but beautifully bright and clear air dry. Met many old friends Col. Williams R.E., and others. Heard from Mrs. R. at Peshawur. There was a ball given at the Montgomery Hall ; I met several old friends. Left pretty early, before supper, and went to bed at 1 1 .30. The night was cold, but fine. I am in a large tent in the camp surrounding the Government House, which itself is an old tomb converted into a dwelling-house. The reception rooms are large, but the accommodation is not very extensive several of our party are in tents. It was so when I was here in 1870 with the Duke of Edinburgh. Wednesday, igth January, Lahore. The night was not so cold ; thermometer only 42. Lord S. is better ; C. is better also his collar- bone is fast consolidating; A. is out of sorts! I went with Sir B. Frere and General Maclagan to the Museum, and saw, among other objects, some very interesting Greco-Buddhistic sculptures, and got a copy of a picture of the artificial nose-makers of Kote Kangra. We visited the Mayo Hospital, and were taken over it by Drs. Burton Brown and Neil ; it is a good hospital, and seems to be very popular. I remained at home the greater part of the afternoon writing letters. The Prince returned the visits of several of the native chiefs and opened the Soldiers' Institute at Mean-Meer. In the evening, after dinner, we all went to a f&te at the Shalimar Gardens. It was very crowded many native chiefs with their followers, and all the European inhabitants were there. The tanks and fountains, which are numerous and beautiful, were splendidly illuminated, and there were fireworks and music. It was very cold, and a great coat was most acceptable. It was certainly a lovely night, such as perhaps only can be seen in India. The drive home was very cold. Ellis's servant has dysentery, but is better to-day. I have a good many patients at present. The Prince is very well, but he often complains of the cold, and says he prefers the moist warmth of Southern India. I have bought a few trinkets of Gujeratee work and from the North-west and Afghanistan. Sir F. Pollock is here, and has made his Afghans bring down a variety of specimens of their work, which are exposed for sale, with prices all ticketed carpets, Pushmeenas, Puttoos, lamb's-wool dresses, Chogahs, and Posteens ! The men who have brought them Beloochies and Afghans, fine, picturesque-looking fellows hang about the camp ; they are very different from the mild Hindoo of the plains of Hindostan. The articles are very cheap, and many of them are exceedingly pretty. It has been very cold ; in the tent, eyen with a fire burning, the thermometer in the daytime was only 64. We go on to Jummoo to-morrow. Lord S. is better, but he is not well enough to go on with us, so he remains under the care of Dr. Duke, surgeon to the Lieutenant-Governor, one of the most active of his extra A.D.C's., and most indefatigable in providing for every- one's comfort. Nothing can exceed the kindness of Sir H. and Lady Davies, and of all the staff. Thursday, 2oth January^ 1876. --We left Lahore at 8 a.m. by special train for Wuzeerabad. The usual ceremonies were observed and honours paid to the Prince on arriving and leaving the station, which was prettily decorated. The rail here is the narrow gauge, and very narrow it is ! The saloon carriages are well made and orna- mented, but they oscillate frightfully. The road is very dusty. We reached Wuzeerabad in about three hours The view of Lahore when crossing the river is very picturesque, but the country beyond it is flat and uninteresting. At Wuzeerabad we found breakfast prepared in tents by Mr. Kelner, who purveys for this expedition, as he did for the Duke of Edinburgh in i87o. Mr. K. is ill, and not able always personally to attend to the work, so it is not always quite so well managed as on the former occasion ! After breakfast we found carriages and drags prepared for our conveyance to Jummoo. We got over the ground at a great pace, most of our carriages being drawn by artillery horses, driven by gunners, and soon reached Sealkote. Here we rested for a couple of hours, which were spent at lunch with the gth Lancers. I met Col. Graham, of the ijth Cavalry, Lord W. Beresford, Captain Abadie and other old friends and acquaintances. We resumed our journey, making frequent changes of horses, and travelled rapidly. On entering the Jummoo territory we found that the Maharajah of Cashmere had made a cutcha road all the way, beginning where our metalled road ended, so that there was no impediment. We galloped on to the bank of the River Towie. The Maharajah met us about seven miles from Jummoo. On arriving at the river-side we exchanged our carriages for gorgeously caparisoned elephants, on which we crossed the river, ascended the steep on the opposite bank, and entered the city of Jummoo in great state just as the sun was setting. We did the journey from Wuzeer- abad very quickly in about eight or nine hours, including the halt at Sealkote. The Maharajah, with his son and sirdars, his body-guard in helmets and cuirasses, made a splendid show. The elephants crossing the river in procession, and the troops some fording the clear, pebbly stream of the Towie, which was at this season low and shallow, and some crossing by the bridge made a most picturesque foreground to a lovely scene ! The hills, the river, the forts on the heights, and the city of Jummoo, with the distant snowy ranges of the Pir Punjal, made a glorious picture. There was the usual accompaniment of music, salutes, fireworks, and every sort of demonstration of joy and welcome as the procession moved up the hill and entered the gateway of the old city. The windows, the streets, the roofs of the houses and the balconies were occupied by picturesque groups of people in every variety of costume 9 6 from Cashmir, Tibet, and the plains. We entered, in single file, passing under the arch of the gateway of the city, and very picturesque it was to see the line of gaily-caparisoned elephants, each with its howdah occupied by a native chief or an English officer, winding through the narrow streets. On an elevated spot the Maharajah had built an enormous square building, with large reception rooms with the special object of entertaining the Prince. It has only occupied three months in construction, and is really wonderful, considering the short time. The rooms were beautifully decorated, but so very damp they were not desirable sleeping-places. A number of tents had been pitched on the surrounding plateau for the Prince ; they were decorated and hung with shawls. We each had a very good tent, in which shawls formed part of the furniture and decoration. We went at once to the great hall of the new building, where a Durbar was held, and mutual presentations took place with the usual Oriental ceremony attar-pan, &c. We then adjourned to the front terrace, commanding a fine view of the surrounding country. On the plain below there was a grand display of fireworks. The city was illuminated, and the effect, as darkness came on, was very beautiful. We then adjourned to our tents, and dressed for an immense dinner party given by the Maharajah. All the officers and ladies from Seal- kote, and from many from other stations, were present. After dinner there was a nautch, which was as tame and stupid as those entertain- ments generally are. The day had been beautiful, the air clear, and the drive very pleasant, barring the dust and certain misgivings that the carriage might be overturned at the rapid pace at which we galloped. The country, until near Jummoo, is flat and uninteresting, but as one approaches the lower ranges of hills in which that city is situated, and see beyond them the snowy peaks of the distant ranges of the Pir Punjal, it is very lovely, especially towards evening, when the lights are very effective. It was just sunset as we completed our journey. We had some accidents on the way. One of our wheelers kicked over the traces and fell, we had some trouble to extricate him. The horse of one of the escort, a native sowar, fell and crushed him severely; we stopped and drew him from under his horse, not much hurt, but we had very nearly run over him. Some minor accidents occurred, but we got to the end of our journey sately. Friday, 2ist January, 1876, Jummoo. A fine, but cloudy day : it was not nearly so cold during the night as it was at Lahore. After breakfast we set off on elephants on a shooting expedition to the low jungle at the foot of the hills. We forded the river where we crossed it yesterday on the elephants, and then getting into carriages drove to a covert, where a beat for deer and nilgye was organised. There was not much sport at any of the beats a few pigs and nilgye only were seen. Probyn and I sat on some boulders in the half-dry bed of the river. Nothing passed, but we saw pea-fowl and jungle-cock rise, and heard shots from the others in the distance. We re- assembled, mounted the elephants which had followed us, and went on to beat over a grassy plain intersected by a stream, where a few more pigs were shot, and one or two speared by those on horseback ; the Maharajah killed one this way. Neither deer nor other game was seen here. The Prince returned to a bungalow near the road, where lunch had been prepared, and after it there was an exhibition of 97 acrobatic performances and cheetah hunting, in which one or two antelopes were killed j lynx hunting of hares, foxes, &c., and hunting with different kinds of hawks. We then drove back and re-crossed the river on elephants, some of the party went to see the river dragged for fish. There was a little rain, it was cloudy, and rather close. We got back to our tents about 5.30 p.m. I then examined some Cashmeer work, and bought a couple of rugs for 11 rupees. We had a grand entertainment at the Maharajah's palace, and a dinner party in European style, which must have cost an immense sum. It had been a tiring day. The approach to the palace through the city on elephants, was very interesting ; the streets were illuminated, decorated, and crowded with people of all sorts. On arriving at the palace there was a Durbar, at which all the Sirdars were presented to the Prince, and offered their nuzzurs. We all sat in a semi-circle as usual and watched the ceremony, which was like that we have now so often seen in other parts of India, We then adjourned to dinner in another large room, which we reached after passing through several court-yards and galleries. It was draped with Cashmere shawls, and hung with pictures. The dinner was laid out in European style. The hall looked on to a court-yard with fountains, where there was a beautiful alcove inlaid with mosaic ; all the windows and doors were draped with beautiful Cashmere shawls. The carpets, too, were of lovely Cashmere work with coloured embroidery on a white ground. After dinner we adjourned to the great Durbar hall, where we found not only the native chiefs, but the European officers and ladies from Sealkote and neighbouring stations. Then followed a grotesque dance of Ladak and Lassa Llamas in hideous masks, accompanied by the wildest and most barbaric music, part of it produced by long copper tubes, like Alpine horns, on which the performers blew the most dismal blasts of discordant sounds. There were cymbals and other instruments altogether, making wild and fantastic music, to which they contorted themselves in a grotesque sort of dance. It reminded me of the masks in a Christmas pantomime at home. After this there was a display of fireworks in the court-yard, so near that the smoke nearly suffocated us. Some animals were led into the hall and presented to the Prince, among others a fine Bara- singha stag, which looked wild and frightened. He is to go home with us in the Serapis. There were crowds of European ladies and gentlemen, who seemed much interested with the entertainment. We then took leave of the Maharajah and his son, mounted our elephants and returned through the illuminated city to the camp ; it was a clear night not too cold, and the fresh air and bright starlight were very pleasant after the heat and smoke of the palace. Among other things presented to the Prince by the Maharajah was a magnifi- cent sword, richly jewelled, said to be worth a lac of rupees, with a magnificent diamond in the belt. There was also a great collection of skins, horns and heads of Himalayan and Cashmerian animals. The weather had been cloudy all day, a few drops of rain fell in the morning ; the air quite mild. The distant mountain range generally hidden, but the nearer hills looking lovely. Saturday, 22nd January. We left Jummoo this morning, after taking farewell of the Maharajah and his sirdars. I should not omit 9 8 to mention Pundit Bukshee Ram, an old student of the Calcutta Medical College, who is physician and confidential adviser of the Maharajah. He speaks English perfectly, and was very kind and attentive to us ; he promised to procure for me certain skeletons that of ursus tibetanus, which is much wanted, and was specially asked for by Mr. Busk. He also got me some good heads of Cashmere animals : sambur, bara, singha, ovis-ammon, &c. . The young Maharajah, too, was very amiable, and promised to procure contri- butions to natural science. We crossed the river on elephants, as before salutes, music and crowds of people all doing honour to the Prince, as he took his leave. On the other bank we got into carriages, drags, &c., in which we set off at a gallop for Sealkote, where we again lunched with the gth Lancers. Here we left Lord W. B. and took on Mr. Lascelles of that regiment. We arrived at Wuzeerabad at 3.15 p.m., having galloped with artillery horses great part of the way. I was rather late in reaching Sealkote ; having got into one of the native carriages with Duckworth and Annesley, of the nth Hussars, who had joined us when we left Delhi, and our horses having broke down, we got into a Dak carriage that was bringing on some of our belongings, and arrived at Sealkote just in time to get some lunch and go on with the others to Wuzeerabad. Near Wuzeerabad one of the Prince's horses broke down, and brought the carriage to a sudden stop, the drag following, loaded with passengers, nearly ran into the carriage, only avoiding it by a sudden dexterous swerve, nearly capsizing as it did so, being a very top-heavy vehicle. We got safely to Wuzeerabad, an event which seemed rather doubtful at times, and found a train waiting, in which we took our seats without delay, and went on a few miles to the new railway bridge over the Chenab, which the Prince opened formally by driving in a key. The bridge was gaily decorated with flags. We then had lunch at the station, at which some speeches were made in honour of the occasion, and immediately after, we were off on our return to Lahore. At the station I met an old friend, Story, who is principal engineer of the line ; he was second officer of the Bentinck when I went home in 1858, after the Mutiny. He has most deservedly risen high in his new profession. I found that our return journey from Jummoo had not been quite free from accident after all. A jemmadar had been jerked offone of the carriages and had hurt his head Mr. Hardinge had seen and bandaged him. We arrived at Lahore about 6 p.m., and dined in state at Government House. After dinner we went to an entertainment given by the native chiefs and gentlemen at the new College. Here, again, presentations of native gentlemen were made to the Prince. There was a supper, and we saw from the roof and windows a dis- Elay of beautiful fireworks. There were some games carried on y the light of the illumination and fireworks, but I could not see them very distinctly. It was a mild night, the thermometer not falling below 48. It is strange how the temperature varies ; the least cloud stops radiation and keeps the earth and air warm ; there was a change of wind, which no doubt caused the clouds. I find Lords S., A., and C. all doing well ; better reports have come, also, of Bubber Jung and Glyn, from Delhi. This had been 99 rather a tiring day, and I was not sorry when I got back to my tent. I am very well, but suffer more or less if I am very long on my legs from pain, the result of former troubles of a malarious origin, Sunday, 2yd January, 1876; in Lahore again ! Fine morning, but not cold, as it is cloudy ; thermometer 48 last night. Letters from home up to 3ist December. There was service in the house at noon by Duckworth. I went to lunch with my old friends Mr. and Mrs. Boulnois, who drove me home ; called on Dr. and Mrs. Neil. Saw the zoological collection and the Lawrence Gardens. I was writing, and busy all the evening, so dined quietly alone in my tent. My inva- lids are all well ; Ellis and Lord Suffield's servants are both doing well. Monday, 24th January, 1876, Lahore. Up early, baggage all sent off at 8 a.m. We start at 10.20 for Umritsur. Among the people collected about Government House were some Afghans, with large eagles trained to pull down deer and hares, they were perched on their wrists like hawks. We took leave and started after breakfast for the railway station, and here we witnessed some experiments under the direction of General Reid, for puttiug a battery of artillery, with horses, guns, &c., into railway carriages, by making the carriages communicate with each other. An entire battery was in the carriages in about 20 minutes, and ready for a start. Several of the residents of Lahore accompanied us to Umritsur, where we arrived at about 12.30. The battery was taken out of the train, and was ready for action in a very short space of time. Sir H. and Lady Davies were with the Prince, and were met by General Reynell Taylor and other high officials. The Prince drove to the Town-hall where there was a presentation of native chiefs and others, and then examined the shawls and other fabrics which were laid out for inspection. The artizans themselves were also at work, so that the Prince was enabled to see exactly how all the fabrics are made. He then visited one of the missions, whence he had a fine view of the surrounding country. A number of officials and ladies were at lunch. We then went to General Taylor's house, where shawls, &c., were brought for inspection. I made some purchases of Rampore Chudders ; one of a very pretty blue colour. The Rampore Chudders were 33 rupees each ; I also got some scarves. Here I met my wife's cousin, Nat Spens, of the 72nd ; he was commanding the guard of honour, and I presented him to the Prince. At the Golden Temple I met my old friend Sir Sahib Dhial. At 5 p.m. the Prince drove through the city ; the narrow streets were beautifully decorated with coloured cloths and shawls, and as it got dark they were illuminated. We went to the tank and Golden Temple, which were beautifully lighted, but it was not dark enough to do justice to the illumination. The city, the towers, the Golden Temple, and the tank, looked very beautiful ; there were illuminated inscriptions in Persian on the exterior of the temple. We did not go inside as there was not time to do so . Thence, through a dense crowd to the station. At the tank a very old Sikh Sirdar, was noticed by the Prince, who spoke most kindly to him, much to the old gentleman's delight. The people were picturesque, and some fine faces were to be observed among them. At the station I saw some fine old Sikh officers, who may have fought against us during the Sikh war. 100 We started, under the usual salutes, at 6.20, for Raipoora, and arrived at 11.30. The station was brilliantly illuminated and salutes were fired, though it was midnight, by the Maharajah of Puttialah, in whose dominions we are. He met the Prince at the station, gorgeously apparelled in a General's full-dress uniform. We wore our full dress, and drove off to the Maharajah's encampment, where a Durbar was held, at which his sirdars were presented. We then went to a magnificent supper, at which the Maharajah was present. After the banquet he made a capital speech in Hindostanee having first pro- posed the Prince's health in English, to which H.R.H. returned thanks. All this occurred between midnight and 2 a.m. We then drove back to the train. Puttialah had this encampment here as it was the only opportunity the Prince had of paying him a visit a great honour, for which no pains nor trouble had been spared. The Maharajah is a fine, handsome young man, of dignified appearance, but he looks ill, and it is said his habits are rapidly undermining his health. I know not how far this may be true, nor from what he suffers, but he looks aged and wretchedly ill, though not above 25 to 30 years of age. * As we got into the train the band played " God Save the Queen " and " God Bless the Prince of Wales," and amidst a glare of lights and roar of cannon we started for Agra. Tuesday, 2$th January. We got to Ghazeabad at about 9 a.m., where breakfast was prepared. The night had been cold, and the carriages rather draughty, so all our wraps were re- quired. C. Beresford, Durrant and I travelled in the same saloon. There was a strong breeze and much dust. At Ghazeabad Lord Napier and Col. Dillon met the Prince. We reached Toondla at about 2 p.m., where lunch was prepared. We then changed our dress full dress again and entered Agra at about 4 p.m., where the Prince met with a grand reception at the station, which was extensively decorated The Lieut. -Governor, all the high officials, and many natives of rank were present. I find that Prince Louis of Battenberg is suffering from rheumatic pains, caught in the carriage last night it was so cold and draughty, I don't wonder at it ! The nights are very cold and the days are so hot that one is very susceptible to chills. We mounted most gorgeously caparisoned elephants, and formed a grand procession, in which we proceeded to camp, which is situated on the Maidan, where the Duke of Edinburgh's camp was in 1870. The Prince rode a magnificent tusker, specially selected for the occasion, with a splendid howdah, and gold and scarlet trappings. A very famous old tusker, well known for many years, and that has carried all the Governor-Generals since Lord Cornwallis's time, it is said, was to have had this honour, but he died two months ago; his locum tenens was certainly a noble animal. There were, I hear, about 170 elephants, including those of native chiefs. They made a glorious sight as they slowly moved on past the fort, and up the rising ground to the camp. On reaching our camp the Prince, the Lieut. -Governor, Sir J. Strachey and the suites halted and faced about, whilst the rest of the elephants in the procession marched past. It was a grand sight ! The day was fine, but very windy and dusty, rather detracting from the pleasure of the spectacle. The road to the camp was * He died soon after this. TOI decorated with triumphal arches, flags, and inscriptions in honour of the occasion. Stands covered with gaudy drapery were erected on the road-side, in front of the houses, and in the gardens, and crowded with well-dressed people ; the balconies were hung with red and other coloured cloths. There was much cheering and waving of hand- kerchiefs. The road was lined with troops, salutes were fired, and bands played "God Save the Queen," " God Bless the Prince of Wales," &c. Altogether the occasion was a most gorgeous and festive one. We dismounted and found our way to our tents, the camp being pitched in the same fashion as at Benares. Dinner took place at 8 p.m. in the great tent, a number of the principal persons in Agra and from the neighbouring stations being present. The Lieut. - Governor's party was the same as that we met at Benares. After dinner there were private theatricals, in which Mr. and Mrs. Batten, Mrs. Hatch, Dr. De Fabeck, Mr. Colvin, Mr. Goad and others acted with great spirit. There was a scene from Pickwick the trial; the madman making love to Mrs. Nicolby and some excellent singing. The theatre and the acting were wonderfully good, considering that it was by amateurs, and in a tent. The weather is mild ; the temperature here last night was not below 40 Fahrenheit. We were not sorry to go to bed, as the day had been rather tiring. The Prince keeps very well, and in good spirits ; his strength and energy are wonderful, he never seems to tire ! Wednesday, January 26th, camp, Agra. After breakfast this morning there was a levee and reception, in the Durbar tent, of native chiefs, European officers and civilians from Agra and other stations. This occupied great part of the day 18 or 20 native chiefs were presented with the usual ceremonies. This is the 2Oth levee the Prince has held. Among the native chiefs presented were Bundi, Bikaneer, Kishenghur, Bhurtpore, Ulwar, Tonk, Dholepore, Oorcha, Rampore and Datta. The Agra municipality presented an addre5;s before the levee. At 3 p.m. there was a march past of the native princes and their followers. The elephants, horse, foot, and artillery, &c., made an imposing display. After this we drove to the Taj and went over the garden and precincts of this beautiful monument. The Prince examined it closely, went into the interior, and was much delighted with this, perhaps the most beautiful building in the world. In the evening there was a fete given by the Lieut.-Governor which, for beauty, probably has never been surpassed ; the illuminations were splendid. We went over the interior of the fort, Moti Musjid, Dewan- i-am and Khas Mehal ; from the balcony we had a lovely view of the Jumna. It was quite cold at the supper, and the wind was keen the temperature must have been very nearly down to freezing point. The gardens were lighted with coloured lamps, and altogether it was quite a fairy scene. We were rather tired when we got home to bed. I met many old friends : Capt. Kellow Pye, Col. Williams and others. We are all well ; Prince Louis is better. Thursday. %Tth January, camp, Agra. After breakfast the Prince devoted the morning to returning visits to native chiefs, whose encampments are near ours. The sanitary arrangements are very good, and the most perfect order and regularity are maintained in the pitching of the chief's encampments in a sort of street, each having H 102 the limits of its enclosure defined, with a Durbar tent varying in pattern and decoration according to the taste of the owner. In these the Prince was received, and the usual ceremonies were observed a short consultation, the presentation of the sirdars, the gift of attar- pan, and hars (necklaces of tinsel), then an inspection of the presents which were laid out for the purpose in a neighbouring tent; a salute, and so on to the next chief. It was all most admirably arranged. There were some curious offerings made : the Nawab of Tonk, for example, had two half-grown tiger cubs led in they are to go home with us in the Serapis. I went to see the Nawab of Rampore, who is ill ; by the Prince's desire Probyn and Bradford went with me. The Nawab received us in his Durbar tent ; he looks ill, as though suffering from some internal disease. I recommended him what to do, and prescribed. He promised to follow my advice, but I doubt his doing so ! Shortly after, I returned to camp, his minister, Nawab Ally Ashgur, came to see me, and brought me a fee of 100 gold mohurs, which I declined with thanks. In the afternoon we drove to Secundra, Ackbar's tomb ; it is a magnificent building, but has been much injured. I think, in some respects, it surpasses the Taj, the mixture of red stone and white marble, with the domes, towers, and marble screens are exquisitely beautiful. As a work of pure Saracenic architecture I think it cannot be surpassed. After dinner we went to see the Taj illuminated, and very beautiful it was, with the trees and the gardens hung with coloured lamps, and thousands of little lights floating slowly down the Jumna, and disappearing in the distance in faint streams of chequered light. I have seen this before, and thought it one of the prettiest sights I had ever witnessed. The Taj was illuminated by the lime light thrown on it from one of the side buildings, and very lovely the pure, soft, white marble looked. We walked about for a long time on the platform, watching the effects of the light, and went into the interior, which was also brilliantly illuminated by the lime light, managed by Dr. Christi- son. On the whole, I think I prefer the Taj without a crowd, and by moonlight, lovely though it was when illuminated ! The nights are moderately cold and clear, with bright starlight ; the thermometer falls to 45 or 46 at night, but rises in the tents to 70 or 80 in the day. Friday, 2%th January, camp, Agra. To-day, a limited party left Agra at 8 a.m. by State railway for Bhurtpore. Aylesford, Ellis, Annesley, O. Williams and I accompanied the Prince. The Maharajah met H.R.H. at the station, and after visiting the palace and driving through the city we went off to the jungle. The country is preserved for game ; it is one large Rumna in the neighbourhood of the fort and city ; low jungle of corunda, dak, and other small trees, with open ground and glades here and there. There were plenty of deer, antelope, and nilgye. The Prince shot a nilgye buck at 115 yards, and some other game : black buck, cheetah and wild ducks. The day was fine, and he enjoyed it much. We got back to camp about 8, and after dinner we went to a ball at the Uewan-i-am given by Sir J. Strachey. The magnificent hall was beautifully decorated and filled with visitors ; the lighting, music, and arrangements generally were splendid. They had been carried out chiefly under the supervision of my old pupil, Dr. Tyler, who is now superintendent of io 3 of the great central jail of Agra. Mr. Halsey, Col. Fraser and Capt. Beauchamp, I hear, also had a large share in the management of the entertainment, which was most superbly done. I got home early with some other members of the suite. Saturday, 2<)th January, camp, Agra. After breakfast the Prince, Sir J. Strachey, with the ladies, and the suite, drove to Futtehpore Sikri. We got there very quickly, as the road was good, and the horses excellent. The day was fine, but the kunker road very dusty. We went over these magnificent ruins of Akbar's short- lived city. Visited the tomb of Shekh Selim Chisty, the British Tower, the Elephant Tower, the Begum's Houses and other interesting buildings ; watched the divers spring into the well from fearful heights; looked at the inscription on the Bulund-Durwazah, in which our Saviour is mentioned, and then went to lunch in one of the deserted palaces. It reminded me of a week I once spent here, years ago, with the Durands. What changes since then ! After lunch we drove back to Agra, arriving there at about 8.30 p m. I dined with my old friends the Pyes'. Whilst walking about the ruins of Futteh- pore Sikri to-day I tripped over a stone and hurt my great toe; I find the nail quite black this evening. The weather is getting warmer : at night the thermometer still falls to 45 or 48, but it rises to 75 in the day in the shade, whilst the sun's rays are very powerful. Some of my party are affected by the alternations of temperature, but none seriously. I sent a letter to H.M. the Queen to-day, besides several others home, and to friends. Sunday, ^oth January, camp, Agra. There was service in camp under a Shamianah at 1 1 a.m., the men being out in the open. The sun was very hot, and some of the loth Hussars had to fall out. Captain H., who was on duty with them, fainted. I took him to the Duke of Sutherland's tent, being the nearest. He was rather out of sorts, and had been on duty late the night before. It was an ordinary case of heat exhaustion. The weather is getting much warmer, but the thermometer still falls to 48 at night. In the evening I rode down to the Taj and looked at it by sunset, when it is very lovely but when is it not ! I got off Freddie (my Arab) and walked about in the gardens ; I went all round and looked at it from every point of view. I shall probably never walk over it again ! Dined in camp with the Halseys' ; their tents are near mine. Durrant is not very well ; he and several of the suite went out hog hunting when we were at Bhurtpore, and the sun was rather strong for some of them. I don't hear that they had much sport. Another group of the Prince, the suite and others was taken to-day by Messrs. Bourne and Shepherd's photographic artist. Monday, ^ist January, Agra. I should have mentioned that after lunching with the loth Hussars the Prince and several of the suite went to visit some of the institutions of Agra, the Convent and schools, among others. We left camp at 8.30 a.m. for Gwalior, in carriages drawn by artillery horses, and went rapidly over the kunkered road, galloping all the way. An officer riding escort, had a fall, and narrowly escaped being run over by the Prince's carriage ; he was bruised, but not seriously hurt. At Dholepore, about halfway, the Prince was received' IO4 and entertained at lunch by the Rana of Dholepore, a very bright intelligent boy of 12 or 14, who speaks English well, and is under the charge of my old friend Major Dennehy, his political agent. He had a good display of elephants, horses, and camels in attendance. Tents were pitched in front of the palace, in which we brushed off the dust. After lunch we were off again for Gwalior, and arrived there about 4.30 p.m. The road crosses the Chumbul near Dholepore, and there Scindiah's territory commences. His officials met us at the ghat. The clear blue river looked very bright and refreshing after the hot, dusty road, and parched ground on each side of it. The banks of the Chumbul here are intersected by a number of deep ravines terrible ground to get into at night ! Near Gwalior we halted at a bungalow, and some tents, where we made preparations for entering the town in state. We had come 75 miles due south of Agra, the day was hot and the road very dusty. Scindiah met us ; we then mounted elephants and went in a stately procession to the Phool Bagh, the palace where we are to be lodged. We passed through the Lushker, the name given to the city ; its narrow streets were decorated, and crowded with people. On arriving at the Phool Bagh, a large, Italian-looking quadrangular building under the fort- ress on the rock of Gwalior, Scindiah held a Durbar, at which we were presented to him. General Sir H. Daly, Mr. T. Hope, and many other officers from Morar, the military station near Gwalior, were present. We were then taken to our rooms, which were fitted up with everything, from soap to tooth brushes, and after a rest, dressed for a state dinner. The quadrangle of the palace is laid out as a garden in formal squares planted with orange and lemon trees. I had letters from home to-day; all well. All the officers and ladies from Morar and other neighbouring stations were at the dinner. Fitzgeorge is suffering from a wound, having cut his hand in opening a bottle at the loth Hussars' Mess at Agra. Weather fine : days hot, but nights still cool. Gwalior is, I believe, one of the hottest stations in India. The rocks are of a reddish brown colour, and look as if they could radiate intense heat. Tuesday, ist February, Phool Bagh Palace, Gwalior. The Prince is not very well this morning, and required some medicine before going to review Scindiah's troops and to see a sham-fight, which took place on the] plain, near the palace. The troops looked well, particularly the artillery, and as they marched past the Prince they really looked nearly as good as our own native troops, especially some of the cavalry, which manoeuvred cleverly, passing in review at full gallop. Hall and I watched the proceedings from an elephant ; others rode on horseback. I dislike riding strange native horses ! The sham-fight was said to have been good. We did not get back till i p.m., when we had lunch. I wrote to-day, with the Prince's consent, to General Ramsay and Mr. Girdlestone, who are to accompany us in the Terai, to diminish the number of followers in our shooting camp, as a pre- caution against cholera, of which there has been a rumour. The disease is abroad, more or less, every where. This certainly has been a cholera year ! At 4 p.m. we went to visit the rock fortress of Gwalior, which towers above the palace. It looks impregnable, though we took it easily enough, by surprising the defenders. Scindiah is exceedingly anxious that It should be restored to him by the British Government, as one can easily understand, seeing that it is in the very heart of his camp, its guns commanding the city and palace : I have not heard that it is at all likely we shall give up so strong a position. We drove to the fort, and then climbed its steep approach and saw the place where it was scaled by our men when we took it years ago. We went over the garrison on the plateau, and here met Sergeant Abbott, who had been with me during the defence of Lucknow. He had heard I was coming, and asked for, but did not know me when he saw me. This tells a tale of the effects of time ! I might have said the same of him. We examined some of the Jain and Hindoo temples and carvings, and then hurried down to overtake the Prince to be in time for the Scindiah's Durbar in the afternoon. We found that our carriage had gone some one having driven off in it. When we got back to the palace, the salutes after the Durbar were firing. Captain F. took pity on our party Sir B. Frere and two others and drove us back. We missed the Durbar, but could not help it. There was a dinner party in the evening, and the rooms were beautifully decorated and illuminated with chandeliers, obtained from Europe at a great cost. All the ladies of the station were present, and a ball followed the dinner. 1 met my old friend McRae, the engineer, whose arm I saved at Lucknow. He was looking strong and well. It is odd that I should have met two old Lucknow men here, one who was wounded in the shoulder (McRae), the other in the hip, (Abbott). It is very much hotter here than it was at Lahore or Agra. Wednesday, 2nd February, Gwalior. The Prince is better. But how can any one keep well long in so much racket and fatigue? We left Gwalior in carriages drawn by artillery horses, after breakfast, on our return to Agra. S. Hall remained behind to take a likeness of the Maharajah. Several offerings were here presented to the Prince a necklace of pearls for the Princess, and many other things. We were each requested to take with us a surai (water jar) that had been placed in our bedrooms. Mine was made of zinc, with a brass neck, decked with red cloth, not of much value, but it will serve as a memorial of Gwalior. In the morning I went into the Bazaar with Colonel Williams and Major Ralph Kerr, who came with us from Agra, and they bought some old brasses. I got some Mehndi (henna) for Miss R. according to promise. We returned just in time to start with the Prince. Great demonstration; salutes, music and crowds as H.R.H. drove off. We travelled back by the same road, and halted at Dhole- pore, when the young Rana again entertained us at lunch. My carriage was rather late, and lunch had begun when I arrived and took my place. Probyn came to me and said that the Prince wanted General Browne himself, and me, and that we were to follow into a side room as soon as he rose and went there. I was puzzled, and wondered what was going to happen. Lunch over, the Prince rose from table and went into the next room ; we three followed. The Prince smiled and said he had something to communicate, and then told us very graciously and kindly, that a telegram had come to the Viceroy from the Queen, saying that we were to be made Knights' Commanders of the Star of India. The Prince also told me that Lord Northbrook had said something very io6 kind about me. H.R.H. said he hoped to hold a Chapter of the Order and invest us himself before we left India. This was the first I had heard of it, and I have no doubt the Prince must have recommended it to the Queen, who has telegraphed assent. The telegram from the Viceroy had only just reached Dholepore. It also announced that Glyn, Ellis, Bradford, and Henderson, the political officer, who is always with us now, are to be Companions, as well as Colonel Earle, the Military, and Captain Baring, the Private Secretary to the Viceroy. We immediately received congratulations from all our companions. Directly after this we set off for Agra, where we arrived at about 6.30 p.m. We found the weather much cooler than at Gwalior, and at 10.30 p.m. thermometer was down to 40, with fires in our tents. The Prince narrowly escaped an accident. The carriage very nearly got into the ditch, owing to the swerving of the horses, but the gunner riding the leader averted the accident by great presence of mind and dexterity. I hear he has been rewarded. Thursday, 3rd February, camp Agra. Last night was fresh and rather cold ; thermometer 42. The contrast between night and day temperature is great; it is very hot now after sun-rise, and the air is very dry. Packing and preparing for the Terai, and for a trip to Jeypore. Shooting things to be sent on, and spare baggage to go to Allahabad. Whilst at dinner a message came to say that Prince Louis of Battenberg, who had gone with some others on a pig-sticking expedition near Muttra, had met with a bad fall, and that his head was injured. I went to the Prince, who was dining a.t the mess of the loth Hussars close by, and told him. He asked me to go off immediately to see him. Sir J. Strachey lent me his carriage, I got four artillery horses, and sent on four others as a relay, giving them an hour's start. It was a bitterly cold, though bright, starlight night : I had a very bad cold at the time, so I wrapped myself well up in a fur cloak of Sir J. Strachey 's, took Mr. Hardinge and some bandages with me. We drove out 25 miles on the Muttra road with the same horses, for those sent on in advance had strayed, and we could not find them ; indeed, we ourselves went the wrong way for a short distance. Our horses were tired out before we arrived, and did the last part of it at a walk. About six or eight miles before we got to the place we passed a native carriage, so I made them take me on, and found Prince Louis lying in a little two-roomed dak bungalow near the road-side, just 25 miles from Agra. He had been thrown when pig-sticking in some rough ground, and was picked up insensible. I found he had had a concussion of the brain and a broken collar- bone, but had regained consciousness before I arrived. I bandaged up his collar-bone, and after seeing that all was well, left him with C. Beresford, and one of the medical officers of the loth, who had come out from Muttra to see him, got into my carriage, which had come up soon after me. The horses had only a short rest, before they returned 50 miles in one night and I was in Agra by 7 a.m. and reported to the Prince. I then took a hurried breakfast, got a few things together and started for Jeypore at 8 a.m. Friday, $th February, Agra to Jeypore. We went by train to Jeypore at 10 a.m. At Bhurtpore, the Maharajah, his sirdars and political officer received the Prince, and drove to the palace to lunch. In the city, we had a passing glimpse of the streets, and the earth-fortifications. After lunch we continued our journey to Jeypore, 107 where we arrived at 5 p.m., and were received by the Maharajah, his sirdars, Colonel Beynon the political officer, and others. There were salutes, music, crowds of natives, with all the show of colour that a native crowd can so well display. We drove for some distance in carriages, but near the gates, mounted elephants and went in procession through the city. It is regularly and picturesquely-built, and was beautifully illuminated. The streets, the windows, and balconies swarmed with people who seemed enthusiastically delighted to see the Prince. We could see only what the illumination revealed but that was very beautiful for darkness had set in. There was a magnificent procession of beautifully caparisoned elephants, and they jostled each other as they crushed along. We went to the Residency outside the city Colonel Beynon's where dinner was prepared for a large party. The nights are still cold; thermometer fell to 40 last night. It rose to 70 to 75 in the day. The weather is lovely, and one feels really braced by it, but it is necessary to avoid the direct rays of the sun as much as possible. We are lodged in tents in or near the compound. The Prince and one or two of the suite, are in the house, which is a rambling sort of bungalow, with a drawing-room, beautifully and tastefully decorated. Major Bradford is with us he was formerly Resident and lived in this house. He lost his arm from a tiger bite. It is curious that two of the officers of the Prince's Indian suite, General Browne and Major Bradford, should have each lost an arm, Browne from a sabre cut during the Mutiny ; Bradford, from a tiger bite. Preparations are being made for tiger-hunting and pig- sticking to-morrow. The Prince and the suite are well. Saturday, th February, Jeypore. At 8 a.m. the Prince, Aylesford, Carrington, Rose of loth Hussars, Lord A. Paget, Bradford, Hall with myself, and one or two others rode or drove out to some cover on the spurs of certain hills covered with low jungle, about four miles from the town, where there are some tigers, more or less preserved, I imagine. We had only two or three elephants, as the shooting is to be from a block-house, built on one of the ridges, and commanding the direction a tiger is likely to take when the beaters begin to move forward. Carrington and I remained at the foot of the hill on an elephant, on broken ground, cut up by ravines, masses of rock, mounds of earth, and low jungle of a scrubby character just the place for hog, deer, pea-fowl and other game. The Prince and attendants rode along a path which led up the hill, and soon we saw them on the top of the block-house ready. The beat then advanced from the other side. Carrington and I keeping an eye on the jungle below the Prince, and ready, if the tiger should come our way. I had a No. 12 rifle. We were both on the same elephant. After a time we we saw movements on the block-house, and heard shouting and tom- toming from the beaters. Soon after we heard a shot or two, and then I saw a tig-er come over the brow of the hill slowly, as if wounded. As it crept along the side of the hill I saw it roll over and fall into a clump of bushes. I immediately got off the elephant and sent it up for the Prince to mount and follow the tiger. We then moved slowly towards where it was lying wounded, about 200 yards ahead of us. The ground was very difficult here ; we had mounted the other elephant. The Prince by this time was coming down the hill. We pointed out the place where the tiger appeared, and just at this moment he fired. The tiger had got up, and turned back round the shoulder of the hill. *<$ We followed with the Prince but could not find it. Beaters came up, and threw in stones and anars (fireworks), but it made no sign. The Prince was standing in a spot where, if the tiger moved, it must be seen, and as we felt sure it had not passed, I expected a good charge, as I thought the animal was wounded and lying close, sulking, in the low thick jungle, the Prince waited very steady and cool ! I went round a hillock to get at the spot where I thought the tiger might be lying, to try and make it move, when suddenly I heard some of the beaters shout- ing that it was there. I got off the elephant and scrambled up the side of the hill, and there we found it lying quite dead in a thick clump of grass. She was a fine tigress, 8 ft. 2 in. in length. She had been hit twice, if not thrice. The Prince had hit her from the Oody (block- house), and again when she turned, after he came down the hill. The Maharajah was much pleased as this was the Prince's first tiger. We then left the jungle, and had luncheon in an old palace. The shade of fine trees and some deliciously cool running water was very refreshing ; here we drank to the Prince's first tiger ! We rode back ; I was on a native horse, which carried me beauti- fully. Before dark the tigress was brought in, laid out on the terrace, and photographed, with the Prince and those of his suite who were with him when he killed it. The pig-sticking party came in soon after ; they had had capital sport, having killed fourteen pigs, after some good runs. Some of the party had been shooting black buck. In the city great preparations were made for a grand Durbar and dinner party in the European style at the palace ; and for this we had to prepare immediately to make our appearance in uniform. The Durbar was attended by many Europeans and natives. There was a nautch after dinner. The dancers, who were elaborately dressed, were considered to be very clever. One old lady, who looked sixty at least, was evidently the prima ballerina. After the Durbar came the dinner party, to which many European ladies and gentlemen came from neighbouring stations. The Maharajah came in at dessert, and proposed in a written speech the Queen's health ; the Prince then proposed the Maharajah's health. We next went on the terraces to see the illuminations. The gardens of the palace were illuminated, and the fountains playing, looked well in the light of the coloured lamps. On the sides of the hills overlooking the city were words of \\elcome to the Prince, in illuminated letters of sixty feet high; fire- works concluded the entertainment. The weather is becoming warmer, but the nights are still cold, and the palace was very draughty the dinner party especially so, as it was held in a large, open hall, only screened off by canvas. I hear from Agra that Prince Louis is doing well. The Maharajah of Jodhpore's brother is with us, acting as Aide-de-Camp to the Prince. He was with H.R.H. at Delhi, and is a fine specimen of a young Rajpoot chief; rides and shoots well. I should have mentioned that Major Hedayat Ally, a native gentleman, who has done good service in Bengal, is also acting as Aide-de-Camp to the Prince. Sunday, 6th February, Residency, Jeypore. The Maharajah is a very agreeable, clever little man, a Rajpoot of ancient descent ; slight in frame, but vigorous in intellect, he has done, and is doing, much for the improvement of his state, having almost rebuilt the city, which is really one of the most picturesque in India, being regularly and systematically laid out in wide streets, with buildings of considerable architectural pretensions. We rode or drove through the streets, and admired houses, shops, fountains, &c. At the end of one of the streets there are several tigers in cages they appeared very quiet, as if accustomed to be looked at. The Maharajah was operated on for cataract not very long ago, and now sees very well with spectacles. To-day, after service in the Residency, he took us over his palace, which is a very tall building with a great variety of rooms, beautifully furnished, and containing some good statuary. It is several stories high, and is ascended by a winding incline, without steps. We then visited the gardens, which are laid out in terraces and squares, fountains and reservoirs of water. These sparkled in the sun, and had a very cooling and refreshing effect. We then examined an exhibition of art manufactures laid out in a great hall near the palace, and made several purchases of cloths, trinkets, and jewellery. We next paid a visit to the ancient city and fortress of Ambeer. After driving some miles we mounted elephants and slowly ascended the hill. This ancient city and fortress are most picturesque, and reminded me of the mediaeval castles in Europe. As we looked down from the castle on to a deep pool of water that lay in a hollow below, some alligators were basking on a little spit of land. Lunch was prepared here, at which there were many ladies and gentlemen. We wandered over the ancient buildings, saw the magnifi- cent ruins, court-yards, gardens, and temples, all in a neglected state, but showing how magnificent they have been in former times, when this was the capital of Jeypore. After lunch we returned to our camp at the Residency. On our way back the Prince stopped with some of the suite to lay the foundation stone of the Albert Hall. I returned to the Resi- dency to meet some of my old pupils who are at work here, and who had been kind enough to ask me to do so. Accordingly, four of them, Baboo Srinath Buttacharjee, Judonath Dey, Apendro Nath Sen, and Mr. Patten appeared and presented me with an address, and a pretty little casket of inlaid work. It was very good of them, and shewed that they remembered the days kindly when I was their teacher in Calcutta. I made a little speech in reply, and took leave of them. Poor fellows, 1 hope they will do well. I shall always have a pleasant remembrance of my old Indian pupils. They have given many proofs of warm heartedness, and of regard for those who have tried to do them good. We had a dinner party at the Residency this evening. My cold is better. The weather is getting warm, and we are all well. I made a few purchases of garnets, strings of beads and other trifles to take home to the children. This visit to Jeypore has been very in- teresting and pleasant. I had never been here before. Letters from home yesterday ; all well ! Monday, yth February, 1876. I went to see the Mayo Hospital, a fine stone building, built by the Maharajah in honour of Lord Mayo, and I was very much pleased with it. It was not very full of patients, but all seemed well cared for. It is under the care of a Baboo, who is one of my old pupils. I then went to see the statue of Lord Mayo, which has been erected near the hospital. It is a good likeness, and recalls him vividly to my memory. The Maharajah and people of Jeypore were devoted to Lord Mayo, and well they might be, for he was one of the best friends they ever had. The no Maharajah has presented the Prince with many beautiful specimens of Jeypore work, which is justly celebrated. He also intimated his desire to present each of the suite with a souvenir. These we shall receive later, as, in the case of some presents from the Maharajah of Cashmere, which will be sent to meet us at Bombay. We returned to Agra by rail, and found Prince Louis recovering. The Prince wished to send him to Muttra, but I thought the exposure to the heat would not be safe, so he is to remain at Mr. Edwards's (the Commissioner) house, when we go on to the Terai, and will rejoin us when he is well enough. I went to pay the Central Jail a visit ; it is under the care of an old pupil, Dr. Tyler, whose administration gives great satisfaction to the Government. We saw all the fabrics made by the prisoners, and I got a few specimens. We left Agra with the usual state in the evening, and arrived at Moradabad at 7 next morning. Tuesday, February %th. We were met by General Ramsay, Mr. R. Drummond and other officials; got into carriages some of them drawn by artillery horses, some by mules and galloped along the road towards the hills at a rapid pace. The day was lovely, and the distant hills looked beautiful. Mr. R. Drummond, commissioner of the district, was in a carriage with me; on the way our mules, going at a rapid pace, swerved and dashed the carriage violently against a tree. Wings and lamps were knocked off, and if I had not jumped out I must have been crushed also ; the impetus made me roll over in the dust up against the tree, but I was not much hurt, got into the carriage again and went on after the others, but presently changed into a waggonette, with artillery horses, as there was risk of being left behind in the mule carriage, and so arrived with H.R.H. at our first camp, at Barainee, on the edge of the forest which skirts the lower range of hills in the Terai. Here we found numerous tents, with elephants posted here and there all the requirements of a shooting camp were prepared. We had lunch, and then a party, composed of the Prince, Lord Suffield, Probyn, C. Beresford, Fitz-George, Lord A. Paget, Rose and myself drove on as far as Kala-Doongee, where we found ponies waiting to take us up to Nynee Tal. The distance from Moradabad to Barainee is about 36 miles, and the road lies over a level plain, which appears to descend slightly as one approaches the forest. The nearer ranges of hills, covered with forest, with the back-ground of occasional peeps of the distant snowy ranges, are very beautiful, and the lights on them were lovely as we got nearer. Leaving Barainee the road runs through the forest, with here and there tracts of long grass. It is a most wild and tigerish looking place, and no doubt, at little distances from the road, tigers are to be found. Wild elephants sometimes pass this way, and, I am told, it is not so many years since a rogue obstructed the pass for weeks. The road begins to rise as you approach the spurs of the hills ; at Kaladoongie, a wild, picturesque-looking place in the forest, there is a rest house. We left our carriages for here the carriage road ends and mounted ponies. I rode up the hill with Lord Suffield ; the others, with the Prince, were just ahead, whilst some were behind. Half way up, about nine miles, we changed ponies, and found refreshments were prepared. I had a Yii capital pony, and he went up the hill gallantly, trotting the whole way. The view is very beautiful, as the road winds round spurs and across ravines always ascending, and the view over the plains is very fine, but it was hazy, so that we did not see it so well as we might have done. In ascending, the flora gradually changes, and the pine begins just about where the plantain ends, though they may be seen growing side by side. We rested a short time, then were off again, passing along some ledges with fearful khuds (preci- pices;. When near Nynee Tal we diverged from the path, and ascended a higher ridge, where we had a fine view of the snowy ranges in the distance. Nunda Devi over 25,000 feet high and other snowy peaks were visible. There was much cloud gathered about the lower parts of the snowy range, but the snow-capped summits were seen above. We passed the pretty little lake of the Bheemtal, with its deserted mills, and at length, after descending from the ridge, arrived at the station of Nynee Tal, with its houses picturesquely perched on ledges and terraces at various heights above the lake, which fills the crater of an extinct volcano. Entering the station I met an old friend, Miss B., whose brother is chaplain of Nynee Tal. We were lodged at St. Loo, a house belonging to Mr. Drummond, beautifully situated high above the lake. There is a lovely view of the lake and the surrounding peaks, though the snowy ranges are hidden by the hills that rise just behind the house. Fires were burning, and they looked quite English : we dined and went to bed. It was not perceptibly colder than the previous night in the plains, though I imagine we have ascended nearly 8,000 feet. The garden, with its terraces, is very pretty ; and contained a great variety of vegetation. The hills are clothed with pine, ilex, and other trees. There are lovely peeps of the lake, and the mall, and the houses of the village at the head of the lake below, something like looking at Windermere from Cringlemire, above Bowness, only steeper, and more shut in. Wednesday, loth February, 1876, Nynee Tal. I got up early in the morning, went to a point on one of the higher ridges to get a view of the " abode of snow," and had a magnificent one of many of the high peaks far beyond the intervening ridges which rise to a variety of elevations, until they culminate in tremendous mountains Mount Everest, which is best seen from Darjeeling, being nearly 30,000 feet, the highest peak in the world. Soon after breakfast we rode down the hill, leaving the station by a different route; passing through the village at the head of the lake, and making a short cut, joined the road by which we came up, a mile or two from the station. A few rhododendrons were 'in blossom, and very lovely they were with their clusters of red flowers. Later, when they are all in flower, it must be a blaze of colour. We had a pleasant ride down, and after reaching Kaladoongie, rode on for a mile or two, where we met the elephants, with howdahs, and then began the first beat for large game and tigers. I had a good race on my pony, with Probyn on his, as we came along the level. On the way up, I met my old friend, Dr. Govan, who was with the Sirmoor battalion, on its way from Almorah to form part of the Prince's escort in the Terai ; they had been countermanded in con- sequence of the necessity for reducing numbers in camp. Dr. Govan and I served together in the field hospital at Rangoon during the last Burmese war. They had halted when we met, and were about to retrace their steps. Before leaving Nynee Tal, Miss B. presented the Prince with an oil painting, done by herself, of the snowy range. She requested me to ask H.R.H.'s acceptance of it, and he graciously complied with her wish. We got into our howdahs, and with a line of elephants beat over a variety of excellent cover for deer, pigs, tiger, and small game. We did not find a tiger, although we might well have hoped to do so. A few hog deer, cheetul, pig, and some black partridges were bagged; we then went into camp at Barainee in time for dinner, which was laid out in a large tent very like that we had when the Duke of Edinburgh was in the Terai in 1870. Mr. Kellner is purveyor, but is prevented by illness from personally supervising the arrangements. I had been feeling unwell all day, the long ride up and down hill, the changes of temperature and food, probably brought it about ; in the night I had severe attack of cramp, and suffered consider- ably. Dr. Kellett did all that was necessary for relief. The Prince very kindly sent to tell me not to go out in the morning, but when day- light came I was much better, and I was not going to let H.R.H. go out tiger hunting without me. To-day was merely a beginning, to get the elephants together, and to arrange guns, howdahs, and attendants. I find neither my elephant nor howdah are of much use, and shall change them. We have a large line of Commissariat elephants as well as those supplied by the Nawab of Rampore and other native chiefs. My old friend, the Rajah of Kassepore, Sheo Raj Sing, is in camp. The weather is beautiful, and very cold at night ; they tell me there was quite a sharp frost last night in camp at Barainee. It appears, indeed, to have been as cold as it was at Nynee Tal. The day is lovely, and the sun scarcely too warm even at noon. Thursday, loth February, 1876, Camp Barainee, in the Terai, Rohilkund. I had a wretched night of pain, but was better this morn- ing, and could not resist going out. The old familiar sounds of preparation by the elephants and mahouts outside my tent have an irresistible attraction. I dressed and got into my howdah. Colonel A. Dickens, C.B., Captain Ludlow Smith, and Captain Grant of the Quarter-Master General's Department, are with us and have charge of the camp. Sir H. Ramsay has his camp near us ; with him are Mr. A. Colvin, Mr. Moore, collector of Bareilly, and Mr. Macdonald, Superintendent of the Terai all good sportsmen. Mr. J. Robinson is also there, he writes for the Pioneer* We have a large number of followers of all kinds, including escorts. There is a troop of Irregular Cavalry of Probyn's old regiment, commanded by Lieutenant Prinsep, and other guards. The baggage is to be carried on camels and elephants : of the former there are several hundred ; of the latter considerably over a hundred. We have each a small single pole tent. There is a large shamianah, and a larger dinner tent in the centre, whilst the Prince's tents stand at the head of the camp. I have with me two 16 smooth bores that carry ball or shot, a 12 double rifle, by Moore and Gray, which carries the same cart- ridge as the guns ; its own proper cartridge containing four "3 drachms of powder, those of the guns only three. Bradford has brought with him some sowars of the Central India Horse, in addition to the other followers of his department and these he has most kindly distributed among the suite to look after their guns and accompany them in the howdah. I am to have a little Mahomedan named Ackbar Sahib, who will accompany me in the howdah, and remain near me always whilst we are in the Terai. James and Ibrahim are also here. Ibrahim is an invaluable servant. I have also Furzund of the one eye one of my old servants of former days, who rejoined me in Calcutta. He used to accompany me on my former Purneah shooting expeditions, and is a good man, but he seems to have lost a good deal of his energy and brightness he is getting old in fact. Mr. Hardinge, my apothecary, and his compounder are also with me, and have a tent with the medicine chests and other appurtenances close at hand. I shall take a few simple things with me in the howdah daily in case of accident or sudden illness, and Mr. Hardinge will go on another elephant, also supplied. When our party divide, he will go with one, I with the other. He is an excellent fellow bright, intelligent, active and obliging, always ready and willing just the sort of man I like ! We started after breakfast with a line of about 100 elephants, and beat across an extensive grassy plain, intersected here and there by deep nullahs. After proceeding some distance we were told by some natives that a leopard had just killed a cow. We beat in that direction, soon came on the leopard, and after rather a sharp chase it broke away wounded ; we came upon it in some long grass in a nullah and killed it almost under the elephant's feet. We then went on until we came to some low jungle, and beyond it a heavy swamp with long grass, in which we beat for a tiger. We put a large tiger out, and the Prince had a snap shot as it crossed a nullah, but it got away. The grass is just beginning to be burnt here and there but it is still boundless in extent. We had plenty of small shooting, such as hog, black partridges, deer; and we saw some florican. It has been warmer to-day, and was cloudy last night, the thermometer did not fall below 44. The night before, ice formed on the pools of water about the camp. I felt much better towards the evening, and had a good deal of shooting during the day. The Prince remonstrated very kindly with me in the morning for coming out. I certainly felt much better in the howdah than I should have been in the tent ! Friday, nth February, camp, Barainee. We move our camp to- day to Peepul Parao, about twelve miles east of our present position. The camp broke up early in the morning; after breakfast we got into our howdahs and beat in the direction of the new halting place. Two parties were formed a certain number of elephants with each. I should have mentioned that Sir B. Frere and Canon Duckworth left us at Agra to go to Lahore and Peshawur. The parties took rather divergent lines, though never very far apart, and commenced beating soon after leaving camp. The grass is everywhere very luxuriant. It is too early in the season, and the cover is so extensive that it is quite a chance if we find tigers. Our beat lay across grassy plains on which the Bhabur Forest encroaches here and there, with occasionally a heavy swamp sometimes bordered by tree jungle, a splendid cover for tigers ! We had more than IT4 one promise of a find, but either the tiger got away before we came up, or he had not been there; we found one recent kill, but no tiger : a deer, some partridges, and florican were all we got. One party got two gond (rucervus duvaucellii) some hog-deer and partridges. The country is very wild and beautiful, the lower ranges of hills along the base of which we are skirting looked lovely, and occasionally through a gorge the distant view of a snowy peak lying far back in the distance might be obtained. The forest has a lovely combination of colours. The grassy plains and the swamps are wild and full of game, though it is difficult to find it in such boundless cover. Col. Dickens, was riding a large male elephant of rather uncertain temper, which in crossing a nullah in the forest knocked the howdah against a tree and broke the rifle ; he will not allow other male elephants to come near him. D. says he will change him. I am riding a very good female elephant belonging to the minister of the Nawab of Rampore Nawab Ally Ashghur; he has brought several elephants, and has lent me this one. She is steady, moderately smooth and fleet, has a very good mahout, and I think will behave well in the presence of a tiger. When at Agra the Prince invested the Nawab of Rampore as G. C.S.I., and the Nawab Ally Ashghur as C.S.I., I had the pleasure of assisting at the ceremony, as I did in the case of the Prince at Cairo. Ally Ashghur is an old friend ; we shot together in 1871, when we went through the Terai with Lord Mayo, and killed nineteen tigers and three leopards. On that occasion I killed a fine tigress at Moondiah Ghat with a single bullet, Ally Ashghur had the skeleton prepared and sent to me at Calcutta ; I have it now at home. The day was pleasant rather hot in the sun, but the air was cool and fresh. The Terai here, at all events, is said to be quite healthy at this season, but not so from May to December, when malaria is very active. Even now, I imagine, it is not quite free from risk though with care, avoiding chills, and occasionally taking quinine, we trust there is in little or no danger. All are provided with light clothing, with quilted pads along the spine, and large solah hats. After dinner in camp, we had a large log fire, round which we sat till a late hour. The night was lovely, the stars brilliant, and the fresh, cool air delightful. The light of the blazing fire, and the hum of voices in the camp, the noise of camels and elephants, and the wild sounds from the forest, made a charming scene, one which, of all others, I think I most delight in ! Saturday, \2th February, 1876, camp Peepul Parao, Terai. The thermometer fell to 34 at 3 a.m., but the day has been hot in the sun. It is pleasant enough in the howdah, as there is generally a breeze, and a good Solah hat with, if needs be, an umbrella quite protects one. We are 12 or 13 miles from our halt of yesterday. We made two parties I was with the Prince, and we beat in the direction of our new camp, for we change again to-day. We crossed grassy plains, and belts of forest, and passed on through swamps, which are green and luxuriant with the long grasses that sometimes reach above the howdah. Here we got hog deer, gond (swamp deer), partridges, and florican. Towards the afternoon in traversing a very wild belt of forest, the Rajah of Kassepore and I got rather separated "5 from the rest of the party, and as we were working our way through the trees, came on a leopard that had just killed a half-grown spotted deer. There were branches intervening when my eye first caught the object, and at that moment the leopard sprung away into the cover that was thick all round the spot. The deer was hardly dead, and its flank was torn open. I pressed on, and a minute or two after put the leopard up out of some long grass. I got a fair snap shot at, but cannot say whether I hit him or not, the Rajah said I did ; we looked about, but it was getting late, the others had gone on some distance, and the camp was distant so we gave up the search, intending, if not too far, to come back the next day. We passed through some beautiful forest glades, deep swamps, and long grass magnificent cover for game of all kinds. We reached our new camp at Tanda at about 6 p.m. Our bag to-day included three sambhur, four cheetul, a porcupine, two hog deer, and a number of black partridges a leopard should and would have been added, had we had time to stop and look for him. After dinner we sat round the camp fire, and the game was inspected. The day was cloudy and moderately cool, though hot at noon. The hills about nine miles distant, look lovely, and are seen very distinctly ; very little if any of the snowy range is visible, being shut out by the lower hills in the foreground. The forest is looking glorious with its various tints of colour in the sal leaves, the bright scarlet of the dak, and cotton trees, and the red seeds of the kamela, which are all in bloom. It is too early in the season though for good tiger shooting, but we came across their tracks several times to-day. Sunday, i3*h February, camp Tanda, Rohilkund Terai. We halted to-day. Close, sultry weather; hazy atmosphere. Thermo- meter in tent 82 at noon : hills not visible. No service, as Duckworth is away. The thermometer at 3 a.m. was 46 a con- siderable range of temperature ! We are all . well in camp. Kellett keeps a strict watch on the sanitary arrangements es- sential in a large camp. He has also taken charge of our messing arrangements, and the supervision of Kellner's men. I have been writing letters in my tent to-day. Our distance from the camp of yesterday is about nine miles. Ally Ashghur not very well. He came to be prescribed for again, and represented that the Nawab of Rampore was most anxious to offer me a nuzzer for seeing him pro- fessionally I again declined, saying that if they insisted on it, it must be done through the Prince's Secretary, as I could not accept anything otherwise. There was a slight fall of rain towards evening; we have had a day of rest, and move camp to-morrow. I find that we have about 200 elephants belonging to the Government and to the Nawab of Rampore ; the Rajah of Kassepore has three or four with him. There are 500 to 600 camels, and 1,500 to 2,000 camp followers. All told, we must certainly be over 2,000 people. Monday, \\th February, Camp Nugla, Rohilkund Terai. We started as usual this morning after breakfast in two parties. The Prince went in the direction of the place where \ve encamp to-night. We had a tedious beat through extensive plains of long grass, belts of forest, and passed on through some magnificent nul swamps and pateria grass, but all too dense and extensive. We heard a tiger in one, but could not find him. The range of thick cover is so wide and extensive that they can escape easily and a tiger always does so if possible. We continued the search for tigers until 4.30 p.m., when we began general shooting, and got some hog deer, cheetul, hares, and black partridges ; it was quite dark and 8 p.m. before we got in our new camp, the Prince had already arrived. He had killed two very fine black bears, two large boars, and several deer, with small game. The day was pleasant rather hot in the sun but the air cool. Towards evening, and before we got to camp, it was quite fresh and cold. We traversed some very wild, desolate country towards sun- down. We found some huts as we neared the camp, which, as we approached it, looked like a large town with its numerous lights and the varied sounds of camp followers. The thermometer last night was not below 48; it is getting perceptibly hotter every day. It appears that we broke up really into three or four parties to-day, and all got some game : a good bag of bears, deer, hares, partridges and a florican or two. Got home letters, and one from an old friend W, Hearsay who is living at Bareilly, and sent it out with a large pine-apple. I also received a very kind letter from General Ponsonby, written by Her Majesty's direction. We had a late dinner ; after it a magnificent log fire. The game was then inspected. Mr. Bartlett was hard at work skinning the bears and the deer. The bears (Ursus labiatus) are the finest I have seen. Tuesday, i$th February, Camp Uncha Gawn, Rohilkund Terai. This camp is only six miles, as the crow flies, from the last, but we made long detours and circuits in search of tigers, General Ramsay was fortunate yesterday in shewing the Prince two bears ; the cover is too thick yet for tigers there may be any number but we cannot find them. They wander about, and there are no certain spots for finds until a month or six weeks' later, when the grass will be burnt up. We had not so long a beat to-day, and found excellent cover for tiger. As we were crossing a piece of ground half grass, half tree jungle, the surface tolerably open I heard a shot to my left, and found that Colvin had fired at and killed a she-bear, with two cubs, a few weeks' old. She was shot in the head and killed on the spot it was quite touching to see how the little cubs clung to their dead mother, and fought and screamed when taken away. It was found necessary, at last, to quiet them, by putting them on her body which was placed on an elephant, and sent into camp. We halted for lunch, and after it we got the first tiger, when beating through a heavy nul swamp ; Probyn and I were on the right bank. Lord Suffield, who was on the other side, which joined the forest, saw a tigress rush in and strike down a deer. At this moment she was disturbed by the advancing line of elephants, immediately left the deer and entered the heavy swamp, out of which she was almost immediately beaten by the advancing line. There was the usual trumpeting and noise of the elephants, a growl or two, and out she charged, forty yards ahead of Probyn and myself, across a grassy plain, making for a belt of forest beyond it. We all or, at all events, all who saw her fired, and she fell. We came up and found she was almost dead, and had no power of fighting. She was a fine tigress, and probably had left cubs in the forest. The hog deer she "7 had struck down was picked up and brought into camp ; it was quite dead. We beat on towards our new camp, and got six or eight fine deer and a quantity of black partridges. The day was cloudy rather warm, but not at all unpleasant. We have had good reports of Prince Louis, who hopes to join us before we cross the Sarda into Nepaul. A case of suspicious eruptive disease presented itself among the camp-followers to-day. I told Kellett to have him sent off in a dhooly to the nearest station hospital, at Bareilly, and to have a parade as soon as possible and examine all the others, to see if there are any more cases all were found com- pletely healthy. Dinner and camp-fire as usual this evening, and an inspection of the tigress. She was full-grown, but I have not noted her exact measurement. There were cheetul and hog deer to skin and distribute among the camp-followers. Wednesday, i&h February. Moved to-day to a new camp some miles further east, named Seesona. There had been a few drops of rain during the night, it was cloudy, and the thermometer fell to 48. The day has been warm, and the air clear after the rain, with a lovely view of the hills. We returned to the swamp where the tigress was killed yesterday, as we thought we might find her mate and kill him too, but were disappointed. We then turned in the direction of our new camp, and beat over grassy plains, through deep nullahs and heavy swamps. We met with every variety of jungle and swamp grass. In one of the Bhughars or swamps two elephants stuck in the quagmire, and were long in extricating themselves, shrieking loudly all the time. We got cheetul, hog deer, black partridges, and on the grassy plain, sambhur, and more hog deer, of which, by the way, there are two kinds, the spotted and the plain. We also got florican. Solitary snipe in the swamps, and more partridges in the grass. We have not yet seen the hispid hare nor the swamp partridge (khakerj. I doubt if the latter are ever found west of the Sarda. We found no tiger, the cover being so very extensive, though we beat in a long line of the whole party, in many most likely places, at one time we were near the foot of the hills. Sir H. Ramsay tells me that the country about Seesona, our new camp, was formerly an extensive swamp, abounding with gond and hog deer. I doubt if the rhinocerous ever came so far west. The country has been so much drained that its character is quite altered, and now there are villages and a fair amount of population ; Taroos and others live there all the year round. Many parts of the Terai are habitable for a certain part of the year only, being deadly and deserted at others. The sun was hot, but it was pleasant in the breeze. Our camp is healthy ; no fresh cases of eruptive disease. We got to camp at 7 p.m. ; dinner at 9. Thursday, nth February, camp, Nanuck Mutta. The night was rather cold : thermometer 42. Our camp was sheltered in a tope of mango trees, in a very picturesque spot. Outside on the plain it is colder. Trees, like clouds, stop radiation ! Before leaving camp this morning, a photographic group was taken of the Prince and party. We went in two parties again to-day, and had one beat for a tiger that had recently killed a man near a Bunjarah village, but the grass and forest were too extensive. We beat a nullah and other n8 likely places, without success. We had tiffin in the forest, gave the elephants a rest, and then went on our way, there was not much shooting, for we got among extensive tracts of cultivation. One thickly-populated village named Sitar Gunge, had some puckah houses, and an officer of the Irrigation Department, with other local officials, residing there. Our road now lay over quite a cultivated country to our next camp, about ten miles from Seesona, called Nanuck Mutta, where there is a Sikh shrine. The camp is picturesquely placed among bamboos and trees, but not so pretty as that of yesterday, where the trees were larger. Though the sun was hot, there was a cool, refreshing breeze. Thermometer fell at night to 42. The Prince came in to camp at 7 p.m., after dark. Two tiger cubs of about eight months' old had been killed, and the mother was wounded but got away ; she appears to have given sport, but did not hurt anyone. I have been writing letters home, and to General Ponsonby. Nanuck Mutta is on higher ground, and is surrounded by the cultivated tracts I have mentioned. There is a rising population that has hitherto remained here all the year round, but it is not yet ascertained if they will continue to do so. No doubt it must be malarious at certain seasons. The draining of the country has almost removed a former swamp the Mahadeo swamp once said to abound in game. There is a beautiful view here of the lower ranges of hills and of one or two snowy peaks beyond them. The camp is healthy. It is wonderful how well the Prince stands the work, he seems to enjoy it greatly, but I think some of my companions are rather disappointed with Indian sport so far as they have yet seen it. Friday, i8th February, 1876, camp Kattenia, Rohilkund Terai. We left Nanuck Mutta this morning at the usual hour. The night was cold, our camp being more out on the open plain. Thermometer fell to 38. We had a line of 120 elephants to-day, and beat over a very extensive plain of grass, where we saw many florican, black partri'dges, hog deer and some fine gond stags. Some of the long grass was set on fire, and made a magnificent blaze ; it continued urning for a long time, and the sky was full of smoke. Near a village, and close to the banks of a stream, we found a fine tiger and killed him after some good sport. He made several charges, but had no chance against so many it would be difficult to say who killed him where so many fired. He was close under my elephant at one time ; I did not fire, but was ready to do so if he had got hold of my elephant, or if any other emergency had happened. He was a fine full-grown male, with a splendid head, and must have made great havoc among the cattle in the neighbourhood of the village. We beat again over the same cover for a tigress, said to be consorting with the male, but we could not find her ; so, after lunch, commenced general shooting as we proceeded on our way to Kattenia, where we encamp to-night. Here again there is a good deal of cultivated ground. Mr. R. Drummond and Prince Louis had arrived, the latter accompanied by Dr. Deane his arm still in a sling. C. has been using his arm now for some time ; the bone has united pretty firmly. Dr. Deane leaves to rejoin the Lieutenant-Governor. We go to Bunbussa, on the banks of the Sarda, to-morrow, where we are to meet Sir Jung Bahadur. After crossing the Sarda we shall be in the Nepaul Terai. Saturday, \gth February, 1876, camp, Bunbussa, on the banks of the Sarda. Mounting our horses after breakfast we rode across the plain and through tracks in the forest to our new camp. A space had been cleared in the forest, and a road cut through the sal trees, which abound here, right up to the camp near to the bank of the river. Sir Jung Bahadur with his brother, Ranadeep Sing and two of his sons, my friend Bubber Jung, who was ill at Agra, being one, with many other sirdars and followers met us on horseback, and rode with us into camp, where a durbar tent and some shamianahs were pitched. A reception was held, when Sir Jung formally paid his respects and presented his chiefs. He had by this time changed his dress to a magnificent military uniform, with a head-dress of great value according to some of .20,000, and on it, in addition, a ruby round, and big as a marble given him by the Emperor of China, of countless value. His chiefs^ were dressed in military uniform, with turbans and ornaments of a crescent form ; every man carries the kookerie, mounted in ivory, velvet and gold, plain black leather, buffalo horn, or black wood ; each Nepaulese, whatever his rank or condition, carries a kookerie of some kind, and they use these weapons for many purposes. After the reception the Prince told me that Sir Jung's two young grand-children were ill in his camp, across the Sarda, and that the Maharajah was anxious that I should go and see them. I accordingly mounted a stately male elephant, with a silver and gold howdah, but the Maharajah at this juncture made his appear- ance dressed in plain white muslin, and mounted on a very clever- looking Chinese pony, so I said that I would ride with him, and called for the grey Arab, which was not far distant. We set off at once. The Chinese pony's pace was marvellous, a sort of running amble, which kept my Arab at a hand gallop the whole way. We rode along a path cut through the forest very wild and beautiful, and not far from the river ; the rapids might be heard rushing close to us ; at length we turned towards the river, and found a bridge made" of bamboos thrown over it, over which we passed. The Sarda is a beautiful stream of rapidly-flowing clear water, and divides into several branches, as it descends from the hills to re-unite in the main stream. The bed is pebbly, and the water clear and fresh. We crossed six or seven such streams, each bridged by a bamboo bridge thrown over it by Jung Bahadur for the present occasion. These temporary bridges are strong enough to carry a man and horse or a loaded cart, but not an elephant they ford the stream. We crossed rapidly and came to Sir Jung's tents on the opposite bank pitched among sissoo trees, and surrounded by a large native camp. We entered a sort of shamianah, where the two little girls were brought to me, and I found they were suffering from whooping cough. I afterwards sent Mr. Hardinge with the necessary remedies for them. Sir Jung is an old friend. I made his acquaintance when with the Duke of Edinburgh in 1870. He was very glad to see me, and we talked over our former meeting as we rode to his camp. He showed me a couple of pythons that had been caught by his men. One was coiled in the upper branches of a tree j the other was in a deep hole 120 dug in the ground for its reception, and covered over with some boards. He also took me to see his favourite fighting elephant, Jung Pershad, who wa chained to a large tree near his camp. He was a magnificent brute, the largest male elephant I have ever seen ; he has only one tusk, but it is a very fine one. He is kept for catching wild elephants, and we hope to see him perform before long. A man was sitting on his back, and he was playing with some sugar-cane. He will allow no one but his own attendant near him. It was evident from the stream of moisture flowing from his supra orbital glands that he was must. No male elephant dare go near him at present, and at all times he is of uncertain temper. He is said to be nearly n feet high, and his bulk is enormous. I never remember to have seen one like him, even in former days at Lucknow, where the largest fighting elephants were kept by the king. I took my leave and rode back at a gallop to the camp, Sir Jung sending some of his people to escort me. I noticed on my return that Sir Jung has made a splendid collection of pheasants, tigers, and leopards, a thar, musk deer, and some dogs. They are to be embarked at Bombay with the animals from Cashmir. Poor Ally Ashghur, in coming through some tree jungle in his howdah to-day, met with a nasty accident a small branch of a tree sprang back and struck him in the right eye. On examination I found that the anterior chamber was full of effused blood. I bandaged him, ordered quiet and rest, put some atropine in his eye, and encouraged him by saying that there was every reason to hope he would recover his sight. Our camp is very picturesquely situated in the Sal forest on a space cleared near the bright, rapid Sarda. We dined at the usual hour, and had a blazing camp log fire after it. The night was cool; thermometer fell to 40. Mr. Girdlestone, the resident at Kat- mandoo, is with Sir Jung Bahadur, and a large escort of Nepaulese troops. The camp is enormous, he has 800 to 1,000 elephants with him, and 4,000 or 5,000 men of all kinds ; he has a few tents only for his own use and for his immediate followers and family. The soldiers and elephant men hut themselves by cutting down branches, and making " lean-to shelters," some large enough for 26 to 30 men. In these they spread the long dry jungle grass on the ground and aie very comfortable. They keep off the dew and give as much cover as is required. When Sir J. breaks up his camp the huts are set fire to, and the country is lighted up by the blaze. Such a camp, with its numerous elephants, extends over some miles of the forest. The Nepaulese prefer the banks of the river, where they get fresh water and generally healthy air. Sir J. is very particular about this, but notwithstanding, he occasionally has attacks of cholera in his camp. He spends the healthy months in the Terai every year, but is careful to get away early in March. On receiving the Prince Sir Jung presented a letter from the King Maharaj Diraje, of Nepaul, inviting H.R.H. into his country. Sir Jung, on his own part and on that of his soveieign, proffered his services to procure good sport, and expressed their great anxiety to do all in their power to make the Prince's visit agreeable. There is no doubt they will do it. Sunday, 2oth February, 1876, camp Bunbussa. We did not leave camp until 3 p.m., when we crossed the river to our new camp near 121 Sir Jung's. We are now in the Nepaul Terai, and the name of the new site is Jummoah. It is a clearing in the sal and sissoo forest. We took the same route and crossed by the same bridges as those I traversed with Sir Jung yesterday. The Prince was received by Sir Jung, his sirdars, troops, a band of music, and a royal salute as we entered his dominions. He looks rather older than he did in 1870, but is still wiry and active, and stoops a little; his Mon- golian face is as bright and intelligent as ever. He has rather long straight black hair, the face is smooth, very expressive and full of energy and determination. There is nothing harsh or cruel in his features, and his conduct in early years can hardly be judged by European standards of character or policy ! He is wonderfully active still, and as fond of shikar as ever. He has nearly 1,000 elephants with him, and they are all picketed near the camp, which is in an extensive forest. This particular part of the Terai and many miles more eastward, extending along the left banks of the Mohaan, was British property before 1868, when it was given to Nepaul in acknowledgment for the aid rendered by Sir Jung during the Mutiny of 1857. This was a most valuable gift, as it not only extended the boundary of Nepaul towards the plains of India, but it gave them a large tract of valuable forest land, covered with sissoo and sal timber, and, perhaps, the finest hunting ground in India. This Sir Jung thoroughly appreciates, not only for the shooting, in which he delights, but for the elephants that he captures almost every year. Before we left Bunbussa the morning service was performed by Mr. Julian Robinson, formerly a chaplain in the Service, now corres- pondent of the Pioneer, and a guest, I believe, of Sir H. Ramsay. Messrs. Simpson and Johnson, artists for the Graphic, and Illus- trated Neivs, are in camp : they will take sketches during the tiger shooting. Our new camp at Jummoah is four or five miles from Bunbussa, just on the opposite bank of the river. On arriving in Sir Jung's camp the Prince interviewed Jung Pershad, and the two pythons one of the latter in a hole in the ground, the other on a branch of a tree, and to bring him nearer, as he declined to move or uncoil himself, the branch was cut and fell to the ground, the snake, which was 12 feet long, then uncoiled himself, and shortly after took refuge in the tree again. We dined in our new camp at the usual hour ; after dinner Sir Jung appeared, proposed the health of the Queen and Princess, and expressed his joy at seeing the Prince in Nepaul. Before dinner, and when we were inspecting the elephants and pythons, Sir Jung made some of his men display their skill in cutting through branches of trees, or even the trunk of a young semel (cotton) tree with the kookerie. This they do wonderfully well ; some of our party tried, but not being so dexterous with the weapon, were unable to cut so deeply. A Durbar was held by Sir Jung and his sirdars in full dress and diamonds ; when the ceremony of presenting the suite was repeated. The weather is pleasant, the nights almost cold, and one is glad of all one's warm wraps. The sound of the Sarda rushing over its pebbly bed, and the breeze sighing through the trees is very pleasant and soothing, and full of pleasant associations and reminiscences of former days in camp in the Terai. Sir Jung's tents are near ours, which are, as usual, arranged in two lines near the Prince's tents. The camp is 122 healthy. I don't hear that Sir Jung has any sickness if he has, Vie keeps it out of sight. Nawab Ally Ashghur, I am glad to say, is better ; there is reason to hope that he will regain the sight of his injured eye. His tents are near ours, and he comes to have his eye examined every morning. Monday, 2ist February, camp, Jummoah, Nepaul Terai. A freat hunt is organized for to-day ; there is news of many tigers, and ir Jung has scouts out in all directions. One tiger was very near our camp, and killed a cow last night. After breakfast we set off with a long line of elephants some hundreds the exact number I could not ascertain, in search of the tigers. Having crossed the river, or one of its branches, we rode on horseback part of the way. We then beat a dense patch of tree and grass jungle, which was entirely surrounded by a ring of elephants ; only a few howdah elephants entered, Probyn and I went in with the Prince on elephants; Sir Jung was on a magnificent tusker, in a great square box of a howdah. No one was to fire, but the Prince. We saw hundreds of spotted deer that had collected in large herds, numbers of magnificent stags among them, but no one touched them. The elephants soon told us that we were near a tiger, and almost immediately one passed near my elephant, growling; I could then have shot him easily. We were in dense jungle at the time, which almost concealed him for a moment from the Prince's view, but he had a shot and wounded him. Immediately after we came on him crouching in a patch of underwood. Being roused, he charged with the usual short, fierce growls or grunts; the Prince fired twice, and he lay dead. He was a fine, full-grown male tiger, gtt. 6in. in length, with a grand head. We then returned to our horses, mounted, and rode back to camp, and after some refreshment it was about noon proceeded in the opposite direction away into the depths of the forest, in pursuit of other tigers. As we crossed a large branch of the river, a proces- sion of some hundreds of elephants filed past. We stopped to watch a sight such as, I suppose, was never before seen by European eye. Our beat lay through the thick forest and near the river, which forms many an island by its diverging branches, whilst trees and grass cover all the plain. After beating for some time we put up a tiger at which the Prince had a shot and wounded, but it crossed the dry bed of a stream, over to a patch of grass in the forest, which afforded dense cover, where it disappeared. We followed, and now there was a general scrimmage, for we got into a nest of tigers on a sort of peninsula, with a branch of the river on one side, and the dry bed of a stream on the other, covered with very long and thick grass, and occasional clumps of forest trees. In a couple of hours no less than six tigers were killed ; the Prince killing two with a single shot each. Some of them fought well, and made several charges, but none charged home. Others lay sulking in the long grass, or rushed growling at the elephants, trying to break though the ring, but they stood firm, and though the tigers came right up to their legs, none failed ; no opening was practicable, and they had to turn back into the long grass, where the Prince and Sir Jung went right up to them. I saw them frequently, as I was close to the Prince, and kept my rifle ready in case of emergency, and it seemed likely enough in such close quarters as I was that one might arise, but (did not fire. Two at last broke away towards the forest, and were shot. In this one beat six I2 3 tigers were killed. They had been watched for some time, and fed ; I saw the place where a buffalo had been tied up, and not many days ago one of the tigers carried off a man (we saw his clothing lying about) who had come to cut grass. It was one of the wildest, most tigerish places I have ever seen. Had we come in the ordinary way, with three or four howdahs and twenty or thirty elephants, we might have got one, or perhaps two ; but the rest would certainly have escaped, probably unnoticed, in the boundless cover. Probyn and I, the Maharajah and Girdlestone were close to the Prince all the time; H.R.H. killed at least four of these tigers with his own rifle. The day was lovely, but rather warm. The seven tigers were killed before tiffin, which we had on the banks of the stream, which were covered with tigers' foot prints. They have been holding royal court here for some time, and had it all their own way, feeding on deer, which abound, and cattle, which are grazed not far off, where the patches of grass have been burned, and the young grass has sprung up. We beat back through the forest, to camp, and shot some deer and other game. Seven tigers in one day is perhaps as good a bag as was ever made. They were laid out in camp and measured. Three were tigers and four tigresses git. 6in., gh. Sin. tigers j 8ft. ;in., 8ft. 4in. tigresses. The other three wer^ nearly full-grown cubs, averaging 8ft. I got letters from home yesterday, up to 28th July; all well. Rubber Jung's children are improving, so is Ally Ashghur. Tuesday, 2.2nd February, 1877, camp Jummoah, The night was cloudy and not so cold ; thermometer 44. A few drops of rain fell. To-day we made an expedition in pursuit of wild elephants. After breakfast there was a parade of selected pad elephants, and one was detailed for each of our party. We were to ride them in chase of the wild elephants. Mine was a two-thirds grown female, named Heron- Kalli, said to be very fleet. She had a wild Nepaulese, with long black hair, and a kookerie in his kummerbund, \vith an equally wild looking young savage, who was to ride behind and apply the moogrie, (club) which hung suspended from the ropes that fastened on a very small pad, less than three feet square, with a great opening in the middle to fit the ridge on the elephant's back. On this I was to take my seat, not sideways, but straddling just behind the mahout, who cautioned me in broken Hindostanee, of which he could speak only a few words, to hold on firmly to the rope that secured the pad. Having mounted we set off a large party with an immense number of elephants of all sizes accompanying us ; many had gone on ahead, and with them Jung Pershad, Bijli Pershad, and other righting males, as we expected to capture a big tusker that has long been known in these parts, and who is reported to be with the herd. The Prince, with some of the party, rode horses for the first few miles, and got on the elephants on reaching the forest. We crossed several miles of ground after leaving camp, and then pushed on at a great pace through the wild and almost pathless jungle. I began to get into the way of it a little in time, having ridden pad elephants by the score, though never on a Nepaulese pad or Nepaulese elephant, which are very different from ours. The pads are so small, and the elephant goes at such a pace ; some are smooth, 124 "but others so rough that one has to cling to the ropes to keep one's seat at all. The mahout urges the elephant on with his ankus, sometimes his kookerie, the Piadah standing on the animal's hind quarter, clinging to a rope, and constantly threaten it with the moogrie, which he thumps on the pad, this making the elephant start forward with redoubled vigour, and with a side-long sort of gait that makes retention of one's seat rather difficult. By the time we got into the forest, as I have said, I was getting into the way of it, and we Now we were going along in single file, again rushing in a crowd, it being all I could do by manoeuvring my legs and feet to keep them out of the way of the other pads pressing and pushing on in the race ; we must have averaged at least 6 or 8 miles an hour, and often more, for when a Nepaulese elephant goes his best, a horse at a good canter only keeps pace with him. We went on in this way first through the forest, now winding in and out among large trees, sweeping through smaller brushwood, crossing deep nullahs, ascending and descending steep banks, crushing through long grass, ducking our heads to escape branches, which the mahout cleverly pushed aside as we passed near or under them, tucking up our legs to avoid collision with trunks of trees, making an occasional halt to take council on the movements of the wild elephants, which were always said to be ahead ot us. We thus pressed on till we had gone 25 miles right away from camp, and still did not come up with them. A halt was called ; we dismounted and had some food. I got off very stiff and rather tired with this novel mode of travelling. Sir Jung soon called on us to mount again and retrace our steps through the forest, for news had come from some of the outlying scouts that the wild elephants were behind. They must have gone very fast to have kept ahead of us all the morning. Some were said to be to the right or left of the path by which we had come, so off we went again, Sir Jung and the Prince leading at a greater pace than ever. We came to Bijli Pershad with his mahout standing in an opening in the front. He had met and engaged one of the wild elephants which had got away ; though others were not in pursuit of him. Why Bijli remained behind I did not hear, perhaps he was too slow. However, on we went, and a mile further on came to a solitary elephant tied securely by the legs, and looking very sheepish and ashamed of himself. This turned out to be a wild muckna that Bijli and others had caught, and there he was left bound, whilst they had gone in pursuit of others. He looked very much like any other elephant, only covered with dried mud and in low condition. At a distance I saw some other pads, scattered over the country ; they were, no doubt, watching the scattered herd. We went straight into camp, getting home about 7 p.m. It was a most exciting day, and though we did not actually see any elephants caught, we saw much of the proceedings by which the capture is effected. It turned out that, besides the muckna (male without tusks), some smaller elephants were captured, and were brought in in the evening. I had ridden 50 miles at least on my pad, the only rest I had was when I changed for a short time on to another elephant with Sheo Raj Sing, the Rajah Kashepore,who had gone part x>f the way with us on a large and comfortable pad ; we overtook him on returning, andifor the last few miles I rode with him. I made myself agreeable to my Nepaulese mahout by giving him some birds' eye tobacco, which he ate with great relish. I need hardly say I was stiff and tired after myride, and glad to go to bed after dinner. Wednesday, 2yd February, 1876, Camp Jummoah, Nepaul Terai. Sir H. Ramsay has left us to return to his own district, but his son remains in camp. Mr. Moore is still here, and goes out with us to-day. We made two parties and re-crossed the Sarda into British territory, to a celebrated beat known as Chiryah Dhan and had a long beat in grass and jungle, saw plenty of deer, jungle fowl and partridges, but did not fire at them as we had hopes of finding a tiger. In beating a long strip of low tree and grass jungle with a deep nullah running through it, a tiger was put up, at which Russell had a shot, but missing, it got away into the forest which was close at hand. We beat another very heavy swamp, generally a sure find, but the cover was too heavy and we got nothing, indeed we could not beat through the whole swamp, and there may still have been a tiger in it. Towards evening, as we were beating homewards through some long grass, I came on the remains of a newly-killed cheetul, when immediately the elephants gave sign. A moment after a large tiger cantered, breaking from the long grass, across the plain. I fired and hit him others also fired, and C. Beresford, FitzGeorge and I followed as hard as we could, hit him again and he fell. Mr. Robinson said he saw my shot roll the tiger over. Just at this time C.B. was nearly shot by the man behind him in the howdah, who, in his excitement, let off a rifle. Fortunately no one was hurt ; we picked up our tiger, which was a full-grown male, and then beat on shooting deer, partridges, and hares ; re-crossed the river, entered the sissoo forest, and did not get to camp till after dark j it was very wild and weird in the dark forest, and crossing the Sarda, which was so deep and rapid, that some of the smaller elephants had to swim. The Prince had already arrived, and they had killed a tigress and caught a young cub, about two or three months' old. This, including the Jeypore tiger, makes 12 killed. Several deer, including sambur, were shot, and a quantity of jungle fowl and other small game. The day was rather warm, but the thermometer fell last night to 42. At 10 p.m. Sir Jung, his brother, and Bubber Jung walked over to our tents in full dress a curious costume for the time and place. They brought a number of offerings in the shape of tiger skins one of which was that of a celebrated man-eater. After the visit they returned to their tents. We sat round the blazing camp fire and smoked our cheroots as usual. It was very warm near the blazing fire, but the chilly night air required an overcoat. All are well. Thursday, Februarv 24th. We moved camp this morning from Jummoah to Mowleah. I posted letters to-day for home, and a long one to General Ponsonby, giving him an account of our doings and of the state of health. There was a suspicious case of eruptive disease in a camp follower, it may be small-pox so sent him off at once to Bareilly Our new camp is nine miles through the forest from Jummoah ; and we rode to it. After lunch we got into our howdahs, Sir Jung, accom- 126 panying us with about 500 elephants. In the forest, near the camp, having surrounded a leopard with a perfect ring of elephants, the Prince went in and shot him as he was crouching at the foot of a tree Preparing to charge. We then beat on through long grass and )rest, crossed several deep ravines, put up a tiger and lost it, but soon after found another, and having followed it Sir Jung, by most skilful manoeuvring, surrounded it with a circle of elephants. The Prince fired and wounded it. Howdah cushions, hats and other things were thrown at, to make it move. One elephant crushed down a tree almost across its back, but it would not break. At last charging through the line it tried to bite an elephant's leg, and then dropped into a deep nullah, and swimming across was killed by the Prince. It was a small but very vicious tigress. Some of the party are troubled with an irritating rash on the neck ; others have it on the arms, hands and legs. Sir Jung has presented each of the suite with a kookerie, mounted in red or green velvet and gold. There is news of a herd of wild elephants not far distant from camp, and among them a celebrated old tusker. We go in pursuit of him to-morrow. I have omitted to mention that the Duke of Suther- land left us at Agra to return to England, and A. Grey went with him from Allahabad, I believe. Colonel Owen Williams was also obliged to leave us suddenly on the i6th ; summoned home by the severe illness of his wife, so that five of our party are absent. Glyn and Durrant returned to Calcutta before we came to the Terai to take the ships round to Calcutta. Rose, of the loth Hussars, and Prince Louis of Battenberg are with us. Friday, 2$th February, 1876, camp Mowleah, Nepaul Terai. Breakfast early, as we are to go in pursuit of the wild elephant to-day. Mounted our horses and rode with Sir Jung in the direction of the hills, the fighting elephants and pads having been sent on before. We are to take post in a valley, where the wild tusker is to be driven, and to be attacked by Jung Pershad. We rode several miles over the plain and through the forest, across ravines and water- courses, the ground being very rough and difficult. We ascended a spur of the hills, and rested whilst enquiry was being made from the people who were directing the movements of the hunting elephants and watching the hunted. We were soon required to mount again, and, passing over some very difficult ground and crossing one or two dry river beds where our Arabs scrambled like cats we came to the valley between two spurs of the hills, we took our seats and waited on boulders and ledges on the hill-side . The wild tusker was said to be in the forest at the head of the valley, whence he was to be headed and driven down into the water-course of stones and boulders that lay beneath us. Here it was intended that he should be met and encountered by Jung Pershad, who was slowly coming up from below. After waiting some time, however, reports came that the tusker was making off in another direction. Sir Jung immediately descended into the valley, and mounting, not his Arab, but on the shoulders of two of his men, he rode up the valley, crossed and disappeared in the forest on the other side. We soon saw him coming back, when he reported that the tusker had broken away, crossed the hill and made off to another valley leading to the forest in the plain. We mounted, and after a rapid ride over bad ground took post in a patch of tree jungle by the edge of another valley, where we had lunch. This was barely I2 7 over when Sir Jung received a report that the elephant was coming right down upon us, and he made us all climb up trees to be out of his way; the men being scattered about in all directions. The tusker did not come, however, and as a report came that he had crossed to the other side and was off as hard as he could go to the forest below. We mounted and galloped after him over very rough ground, across stony beds of water-courses, through the forest, jumping fallen trees, ducking our heads under projecting branches, tearing through long grass, surrounded on all sides by the pads that were making in the direction taken by the elephant. After galloping for some distance, generally hidden from each other by the long grass, we heard a shout that he was in sight, and almost immediately I caught sight of his huge back tearing along ahead of us through the long grass; soon he emerged on an open plain, where the grass was short, and was making off across it to a distant belt of forest. The Prince and several others rode close after him at full speed as he was crossing the plain. He charged several times with his trunk extended, his tail on end, and giving a wild scream. After chasing one or other for a few hundred yards he turned and made again for the forest. My Arab, Freddie, becoming very much excited, plunged and kicked so violently, it was some moments before I could control and turn him in pursuit, and when I did so the elephant was well ahead. He had just disappeared in the forest, and the Prince and the rest were close on him, when suddenly, and whilst at full speed, I saw a deep oblong pit in the grass, open before me, right under my horse's nose ; he could neither stop, nor avoid it, so sprang, and down to the bottom we went. Plunging forward on his head, he rolled over on me. In the convulsive effort to keep my seat as he fell I heard and felt something in my right thigh give way with a sharp pain near the hip. I thought I had dislocated my hip joint. He struggled up without hurting me, and the opposite end of the pit being broken down as if by water, he, after one or two ineffectual plunges, struggled out and galloped away into the forest after the others. I picked myself up, and found I was much shaken and in great pain, but as I could swing the leg backwards and forwards I knew the joint was not dislocated and the bone not broken, though the limb was disabled and very painful. Numbers of pad elephants were by this time passing, some stopped, and from amonq- them one of Sir Jung's sirdars brought one up for me ; they pulled me out, and lifted me on to the pad ; I insisted on following the others, though they wanted to take me back to camp. I was shaken and stiff, and my leg very painful, but not otherwise hurt. I had jumped into an old elephant obi a pit for catching wild elephants, but it had been for years neglected, and becoming partially filled with grass and leaves, was quite soft at the bottom hence my lucky escape ! One end of the obi had crumbled away by water running into it and thus the horse got out ; had he not been going at such a pace when he jumped in, and had the bottom not been so soft, it is possible we might have jumped in and out, as it was not more than six feet deep, indeed, at the end, where the leaves and grass had been heaped up, it was less, for as I stood in it my face was nearly on a level with the ground. We pushed on with my pad a regular wild Nepaulese tusker; passed through the end of the spit of forest and came out on the margin of a swamp on which the wild elephant had taken shelter, and was bidden In the long reed-like grass. Many of the pads were standing about, and on an eminence overlooking it, just at the edge of the forest, the Prince and the other horsemen were assembled. My mahout pointed out the upper part of the elephant's back, and we could hear him moving among the grass, occasionally snorting, and throwing water to cool his sides. All stood ready for a bolt if he should charge out, and once or twice he threatened to do so, when immediately we were off at a speed that could only be accomplished by a trained Nepaulese elephant. This pace gave me exquisite pain, for my leg was getting momentarily stiffer and more painful ; but it had to be endured. However, he did not come out, seeming to prefer the shelter of ^the swamp, and not liking the look of the surroundings. The object was to detain him there till Jung Pershad should come up, and we soon heard him coming by the tinkling of the heavy bell round his neck. I went round to the other side of the swamp and found the Prince and party on the height. They were glad to see me, as my horse had galloped past them in the forest, and they did not know what had become of me. Jung Pershad now arrived his great size and bulk make him slow, but he moves in a very stately manner, with his head painted red, well raised in the air. His mahout, a wild-looking, lanky Nepaulese, with long black hair, was on his neck, whilst the piadah was standing on his back near the tail, holding on to the ropes. He seemed to understand exactly what he had to do, as did his conductors, for he went straight into the swamp, and at once engaged the wild tusker, who received him gallantly. The struggle only lasted a minute or two. Jung Pershad, stimu- lated by his mahout and his own feelings, pressed the tusker hard, who soon gave way, and appearing in the open, produced a general scattering of the pads. He was too much occupied, however, with his own affairs and too hard pressed by Jung Pershad to notice them, and made off followed and butted" by Jung in the direction of some broken ground. He soon left his heavy antagonist behind and got to the cover he sought, but did not remain there long, as the horsemen were on his track again ; he made repeated angry charges at them, first at one, then at another. It was very exciting and certainly dangerous, and I felt very anxious about the Prince, who was often very near the elephant if the horse had fallen ! ! However, no accident happened, and the tusker made off, turning back entered the wood that he had originally come through, We followed, when just as he emerged on the plain he was met and encountered by Bijli Pershad, who brought him to his bearings ; with the aid of others who then came up, he was captured, the men getting down secured his legs with ropes. He made one or two efforts to escape, but his captors were too many for him, and he was ultimately secured to a tree. Sir Jung discovering that he was very old blind of one eye, and having only one tusk let him go the next morning, having cut off his tusk, which the Prince retains as a trophy. Near the swamp where the wild tusker took refuge, we found the body of a recently defunct elephant, which was tainting the air ; it was one of those that had been caught a few days ago, but had made its escape and probably died of its injuries. On returning to camp I was lifted off my elephant and taken into my tent. Kellett examined me; my right thigh was already discoloured down to the knee, and it was found that I had torn the 129 tascia and one of the adductor muscles. It became very painful ; fomentations, however, gave some relief; I was kept in my bed. The Prince and my companions came to see me. Prince Louis, who had disappeared during the chase, soon came into camp ; he had jarred his recently broken collar-bone, and thought it better to ride quietly home, and find his way, as best he could, out of the forest. We were not very far from camp, at all events the chase ended near it. It has been a grand day's sport, and the Prince is delighted. Saturday, 2&h February, 1876, camp, Mowleah, Nepaul Terai. I had a restless night, as my leg was painful ; it is swollen and dis- coloured to the knee. I was obliged to keep in bed all day; fomenta- tions relieved the pain. Got letters from home to-day; all well. I also received a very kind and gracious letter from the Queen, telling me that Her Majesty approved of all I had done, and thanked me for it. Two parties went out in the howdah to-day, the Prince and Sir Jung being with one, they got no tigers ; but some deer and small game were bagged. The other party got two tigers and some deer. One tiger charged Robinson's elephant, getting hold of the howdah. It was shaken off, and immediately seized Ellis's elephant, and got on its head, scratching the mahout and getting very near Ellis. He killed it with a shot from his rifle. It was a powerful tiger, very vicious and active ; it only measured gft. 5in., but was very heavy, had a large head and light coloured skin. As he had just been feeding heavily, it was remarkable that he should be so active. I got out of my tent with the aid of a stick to look at the tiger. I wrote letters home to-day. The weather is getting warm ; the tent was hot during the day. Thermometer 75 to 80, but it fell to 44 in the night. My leg is rapidly mending, and every one is very kind ! Kellett went out to look after the sportsmen to-day, and dressed the mahout's wounds, who was slightly scratched by the tiger. We are all well, except Sir Jung's grandchildren ; they are rather bad with whooping cough and dysentery, but they are getting better. I have been seeing them frequently. Sunday, 2~ t th February, 1876, camp, Mowleah. It was a warm, sultry night, and a few drops of rain fell. Thermometer at 8 p.m. yesterday 56 ; at noon to-day in the tent 82. I remained in my tent nearly all day writing letters to the Queen, home, and to friends. Towards evening I felt much better. My leg is very stiff, but I can just swing it backwards and for- wards, and walk with a stick. I dined with the others in the dining tent. The Prince came to see me in my tent to-day, and told me that Lord Aylesford had received news that required him to go off at once to England. He starts to-morrow on an elephant for Mundiah Ghat, where a carriage will take him to the railway at Bareilly. Our bag of fene naturae is now fourteen tigers and one cub alive, two leopards, three bears, two cubs alive. Monday, 2Sth February, 1876, camp moved from Mowleah to Moosapani, only three miles. It has been a fine day, but the night was very windy. The thermometer at 7 a.m. was 56. The heat is rapidly increasing, the days are now getting very hot out in the how- dah in the sun. Sir Jung's grandchildren are better. I am very lame ; my leg is swollen, and quite black and blue, but get about a 1 3 o little, and can sit in thehowdah. I went on quietly with a small party, and shot a couple of hispid hares, the first I have yet seen. I think this is the extreme range west at which they are found. Their ears are very short, and their hair very stiff ; they scuttle about in the long grass, but do not take long runs like the ordinary hare. I also got a cheetul stag, with a good head, and two hog deer. Aylesford went off for England this morning. A telegram came from Lahore from General Maclagan that Duckworth is laid up there, and typhoid is suspected. The Prince was lucky; he got a tigress and three well grown cubs, twelve or fourteen deer, two hispid hares, some small game, and a good specimen of felis viverrina (wild cat). I spoke to the Prince about the telegram respecting Duckworth, who said he thought he might want me to go to Lahore to see him. I ventured to suggest thatit would not be right to leave H.R.H., and that I knew Duckworth was in good hands. There are ugly reports about small-pox prevailing at Bombay. The Serapis is there by this time. I suggested to the Prince that she should be ordered out of the harbour, and have written to Dr. Hunter, of Bombay, to make inquiry, The day has been very hot all the feelings of the hot weather are now coming on ! I dined with the others, and am better, but weak and lame. Camp all well. Kellett keeps a sharp look out on all the followers, and keeps me regularly informed. He is a capital fellow ! Tuesday., 2gth February, 1876, moved camp from Moosapani to Do-Milla, in the Nepaul Terai. Our way to the next camp lay over a beautiful country, through belts of forest here and there. We killed some deer and pig, a porcupine, and several hispid hares, which are now becoming quite common. The Prince got a large male tiger, gft. 6in., and some deer. This morning, before starting, the Prince spoke again about my going to Lahore. I represented that I ought not to leave him in such a place and under such circumstances. H.R.H. thought otherwise. On arriving at our new camp in the evening the Prince, who was very gracious, said he was very anxious about Duckworth, but expressed himself satisfied, and postponed the idea of my going, as the last tele- gram was more favourable. Our camp is situated at the junction of two streams hence the name Do-Milla ! Our bag is now nineteen tigers, or twenty including the Jeypore tigress. Ash Wednesday, \st March, 1876. We moved camp to-day, to Bomani Tal. I killed a large tigress with a single shot, when here with Lord Mayo in 1871. I have never been further west in the Terai than this before. There was no shooting on the way from one camp to the other, so I rode straight there on my elephant and got to the tope of trees in which the camp is placed, before the tents were ready. Lord A. P. and one or two others were already there, or arrived soon after. Ally Ashghur, who I am glad to say is nearly well again, was there also, and soon after I arrived he came to me with a formal message from the Nawab, and an offering of a trinket, which he had obtained permission to make. I thanked him and the Nawab. Poor fellow ! he was very grateful for the recovery of the sight of his injured eye ! The Prince and the rest of the party soon arrived ; H.R.H. was riding a bay Arab of Sir Jung's, that had carried him after the wild elephant ; it had broken down, and the back sinews were swollen ! The elephants and Sir Jung having arrived, preparations were made to beat for a tiger, reported to be in the Bomani Nullah, within 500 yards of the camp we found, and S. killed it with one shot. The ground was heavy, the nullah so full of phussun (quagmire) that the elephants could not cross it ; some had crossed at another place and were in the tree jungle on the opposite side. We found the tiger crouched in some thick jungle, where S. and I came on him close to us, but just on the other side of the nullah, which we could not cross as the ground was so soft and treacherous. The Prince, on the opposite side, was approaching, we were making signals that the tiger was close at hand, and the elephants were all much excited. The noise of someone approaching disturbed the tiger, and with a savage growl he charged. S. shot him as he charged, and he fell into the water, whence he was dragged quite dead. He was a large light-coloured mangy tiger ; his feet were ulcerated ; he was very lean, and his teeth much worn. We returned to camp, had lunch, and then went on with a long line of elephants to the celebrated swamp, the Bomani Tal. It was here we had such good sport when I was with Lord Mayo, at Mundiah Ghat, in 1871. Having crossed the nullah, along whose banks tigers are often found some took the left, others the right. We found one end of the swamp quite impassable, so one party turned and watched those who had gone round the other end, and were shooting gond. There was good reason to hope if they disturbed a tiger, that he would break in our direction, provided he could get through the swamp. Having shot a few deer, and some birds, when evening came on we made our way home, and were soon joined by the others, who had had some trouble in getting through the swamp. The Prince had killed some swamp deer and a tigress ; she was a fine animal, and had she lived would have given birth to six cubs. I am better, but still lame, and not equal to much exertion ; the discoloration of the limb is remarkable, but it is beginning to fade. My leg is very stiff, and I can only just walk. Telegrams report Duckworth not so well, and that he has confirmed typhoid. In the evening Knollys came to me and said H.R.H. was very anxious, wished me to go to Lahore, and that he would telegraph to the Queen that he had sent me. Of course I said I would start at once. However, I could not do so before next morning, as arrangements had to be made for a special train from Bareilly to Lahore, and I had to cross 60 miles of country between the Terai and Bareilly. Sowars were sent off at once to Mundiah Ghat to make arrangements. 1 wrote to the Queen, General Ponsonby, home, and to others. Sir Jung has not been well lately, and has pain in his chest : I saw him with Kellett, insisted on his remaining in his tent this afternoon, and ordered some medicine. He is getting rather old, about 60, and though active and vigorous for his age, and able to keep up much of the active work he has been accustomed to all his life, cannot bear fatigue as he did formerly. I packed my things for a long journey to Lahore light marching order all I leave behind to be looked after by my companions. Guns are all to be packed, the shooting is over ! The bag up to to-day is : Tigers 22 and I cub alive. Leopards ... ... 2 Bears 3 and 2 cubs alive. I have kept no record of deer or small game; but it was numerous. 132 Thursday, ind March, 1876, camp Bomani Tal. Up early this morning to order arrangements for a start. Took leave of my mahout, Bushir Khan, and gave him twenty rupees. Also of my little Arab Freddie. I am not likely to ride him again and I have not been able to do so since the accident ; he has quite recovered, though he was rather stiff for a day or two. Akbar, James and Furzund, take charge of my things. Mr. Harding will look after the medical stores, and Dr. Kellett will take care of the Prince and suite. I leave them all well ; the Prince is in excellent health, I sincerely trust that all will go well whilst I am absent. I started at 9 a.m. on a pad elephant, with Ibrahim and my baggage on another, and set off for Mundiah Ghat, which is seven or eight miles from camp. Here, I found a carriage, with a dak of horses laid to take me on to Bareilly. It was a lovely morning, and I had a pleasant ride across the open prairie-like country, skirting the end of the great swamp and stretching across grassy plains until I approached the Sarda, where I passed through one or two belts of forest, looking very beautiful with the young green leaves of the sissoo, and the red and white blossoms of various flowering trees. I put up several herds of cheetul, and must have been very near a tiger, for I came on a fresh kill, and the elephant gave sign, but I had no gun, and could not have stopped if I had; so pushed on to the bright, rapidly running Sarda, which I forded, the water being up to the elephant's girth. It was very broad, took some time to cross, and the bright, clear water rushing over the pebbly bed and rippling against the elephant's legs looked very cool and refresh- ing. Mr. Drummond, the commissioner, was encamped at Mundiah Ghat, and came to meet me. I went with him to breakfast, and met some other civil officers. My carriage was ready, and the dak of horses laid along 50 miles of road to Bareilly. D. told me that there had been a disagreeable conespondence relating to some of the dak men who had passed through to the Prince's camp, and had been very insolent, insisting on taking elephants throug'h some cover which was preserved (a tiger being near). I drove in the Nawab of Rampore's carriage to Bareilly; Mr. K., of the Public Works' Department, accompanied me as far as Pillibeet. Here I found Ally Ashghur in camp, and was glad to learn that his eye is quite well. With frequent changes of horses I got to Bareilly about 6.25 p.m., and found a special train ready and started for Lahore at once ; the distance, I imagine, must be over 500 miles. The day was fine, but warm, and the road very dusty. I was sorry to leave the Terai, and probably I shall never see it or shoot another tiger igain. I am going in obedience to the Prince's commands, but am sorry to leave him still in the Terai, and exposed to the risks of tiger shooting and climate; but I have told Kellett to keep a very watchful eye.^wrt-arn thankful to have so good a substi- tute, and sincerely trust that all will be well, but shall not be easy till I rejoin the Prince at Allahabad. Friday, yd March, 1876, travelling by special train to Lahore. Slept last night in the train, and arrived at Lahore at about 3.40 p.m. Went to General Maclagan's house, where I found Sir Bartle Frere. Met Drs. Penny and Neil, who were attending Duckworth at Mr. Probyn's house, and found him in the second week of an attack of typhoid no dangerous symptoms, but much depres- sion. Telegraphed to the Queen, and to his brother, Dr. Dyce Duckworth, about him. Went for a drive with Sir B. Frere, General and Mrs. Maclagan. Saw D. again at night; he was restless and low, but had no bad symptoms. The days are hot but the nights are cold still at Lahore. D. must have contracted fever at Peshawur. Saturday, ^th March, Lahore. I slept well last night, being tired after my long journey from the Nepaul Terai. Saw D. at 7.30 a.m. with P. and N. He had a fair night; pulse 98 ; temperature 100; no bad symptoms. I recommended port wine and beef tea. Some drops of rain fell this morning, and the night was cool. Wrote a full account of D.'s condition to the Prince. Sir B. Frere and I left at 640 p.m. by the ordinary mail train. It was raining heavily, and was quite cool when we left Lahore; I saw D. just before leaving, under excellent care, and doing well. Sunday, $th March, 1876. Travelling from Lahore to Allahabad, by train. Cool day, dust laid by the rain, which did not continue after we passed Umballa, where we picked up Col. Annesley, of the nth Hussars, who goes to England with us in the Serapis. We travelled all day. Sir B. F. showed me some minutes he had written on the Peshawur frontier. We had breakfast at Ghazeeabad at about 12.30; dined at Toondla at about 6.30. The weather gets sensibly warmer as we run south. Monday, 6th March, 1876, Allahabad. Arrived this morning at about 6.30 a.m. Captain Spence, A.D.C. to the Lieut.-Governor, came to meet us, and we drove to Government House, near which our camp is pitched. After breakfast Sir B. F. and I called on General Maud, the Turners and others. I went to the cemetery with Sir B. F., and saw the grave of my little son, who was buried here in 185$, when y we came from Lucknow. I gathered some roses near the little tomb, / and some seeds that had fallen from a cirrus tree, growing just over it. The little stone and railing were in good repair. How it brings back that sad time. I drove to the Fort and saw the place where the tents were pitched in which we lived when the poor little baby was born, and so quickly died, and where my dear wife was so ill ! The sun is hot, though the air still keeps cool ; all indicates that the hot weather is coming rapidly. Dined at Government House, and have a large double-poled tent in the compound. The Rev. Mr. Stephenson, the chaplain, was our clergyman in Calcutta. He promised to see that the little grave is carefully tended. Tuesday, yth March, 1876, camp, Government House, Allahabad. Fine, cold morning ; the sun hot during the day. Went with Sir B. Frere to the railway to meet the Prince and suite who arrived at five minutes to 10 a.m. Lord Northbrook and Lord Napier were at the station with the Lieut.-Governor, and his staff. Glyn has also come from Bombay. The Prince seemed pleased at the result of my mission. I hear from my companions that they killed five tigers after I left them at Bomani Tal and Mundiah Ghat. The great room of Government House was arranged for the ceremony of a Chapter of the Star of India, and the principal residents were present. The Prince, the Viceroy, the Commander-in-Chief, the Lieut.-Governor and other high officials were on a raised dais. S. Browne, Probyn and myself, all in full uniform, were led up by Thornton the Secretary of the Order, received the accolade and the Insignia of the Order from the Prince. Glyn, Ellis, Earle, Baring, Bradford and Hender- son were then decorated as Companions, and the ceremony was over. We received congratulations from many friends. Lord Napier was K 134 very kind, and said he would telegraph and tell my wife about it. Lunch came next, and after it I went to the Fort to see the Eyres and Broadbents. Mrs. Eyre drove me home in the evening. I had letters from home to-day. Dinner at 6.30 in full dress, with our new Orders and Stars borrowed for the occasion, our own not having arrived from England. I hear mine is the property of Sir R. Temple. We took leave of Allahabad and our kind hosts at II p.m., and departed by train, en route for Indore. I am sorry to find Akbar Sahib has not come with the rest, but I shall send him a revolver by Bradford ; the tent and elephant men and others have received presents. James and Furzund have arrived with my things. Wednesday, 8th March, 1876, Allahabad to Jubbulpore and Indore. We travelled all night in the train, and reached Jubbulpore in time for breakfast. Went to see some of the old Thugs who are kept as approvers, but did not remain long, and set off again, arriving at Khandwa in time for dinner, which was magnificently prepared at the railway station at 7 p.m. After dinner we sat out on the platform in the cool air, and then went to bed in our railway carriages on the Indore line, which adjoins the main line; it is narrow gauge. We started at 2.30 a.m., many being asleep at the time. The night was cool, but we were tormented by mosquitos. Lord Suffield and I were in the same carriage. Having crossed the river, arrived at Choral Chowkey terminus at about 7 a.m., and found tents pitched and breakfast ready; carriages, with artillery horses, were waiting to take us to Indore. Thursday, gth March, 1876. Indore is twenty-five miles from Choral, and the ascent of the Ghats is very picturesque. After the ascent it is a dead level all the way. Five miles from Indore we were met by the Maharajah Holkar, with the usual sowarrie, and the Prince entered the city under the usual salutes, music, &c. The decorations were few, but the crowd was great. We hear small-pox is prevailing at Bombay, and that some of the ships are affected happily there is none in the Seraph. Glyn and Watson have taken every possible precaution to prevent its being brought on board, and with success, so far. This must again modify the Prince's plans for Bombay. It is very unfortunate. We are haunted by disease. On arriving at Indore we drove to the Residency, where a recep- tion of Holkar and his chiefs was held. Lunch at 3 p m. At 5 we went to visit the chiefs of Dhar, Rutlam, Dhewar, Jowra, and Holkar in his palace at the Lal-bagh. The weather is fine, but hot in the day. The climate of Indore is something like that of Poona, the physical conditions of the country being somewhat similar. It is 2,700 feet above the sea level, and this, of course, implies a diminished tempera- ture. The Prince in presenting us to Holkar, gave us our new titles. A dinner party at the Residency of people from Mhow and other neighbouring stations. There was also a ball at the Residency, Sir H.. Daly, Mr. T. Hope, and many other political, civil and military officers were presert. Sir H. Durand was here at the time of the mutiny, and Sir J. Kaye in his third volume has made remarks regarding his proceedings on that occasion that have excited some controversy and disapprobation. I know little of the merits of the case, but I knew Sir Henry, and I am quite certain that what he did was done '35 rightly. In wisdom and courage he was never surpassed, and I am sure whatever he did was for the best ! Sir H. Daly one of my old Lucknow friends of former years, is now Resident here. In April and May it is said to be very hot here, but there are not hot winds like those of the N.W. The thermometer now rises to 78 or 80 in the day; but falls considerably at night. I am lodged in Hope's bungalow at least in the one in which he is now living. Friday, loth March, 1876, Indore. There was a reception of native chiefs. Holkar ?.nd Dhar presented each of the suite with a tulwar j Holkar also presented each with a spear. We left Indore at 3 p.m. I took Rose in my carriage ; he has been feeling the sun a good deal, and is feverish. We got to Choral Chowkey by 6.30, and found our train ready. Found home letters and papers ; all well ! My wife seems to have quite recovered from the dentist's operations. My son seems to be getting on well with his new tutor. It was dark when we crossed the Nerbudda, and the effect was very picturesque. We travelled so rapidly that the axles got hot, and our carriage was full of smoke on arriving at Khandwah. Dr. Townsend was at the station. After dinner there were some speeches in honour of the anniversary of the Prince's wedding day. He said some kind things about the services of the suite, and it was a very festive party. Directly after dinner we started for Bombay, where we arrived early next morning. Saturday, nth March, 1877, Bombay. We descended the Ghats soon after daylight, some of the party including Lord Suffield and Knollys went down in trollies; Ellis and I remained in the carriages and dressed as we descended the Ghats; it was very warm when we got to the lower level. H.R.H. was received at the terminus in Bombay by Sir P. Woodhouse, and the civil and military authorities ; it was decided, as small-pox prevailed, that the Prince should go on board the Seraph at once. The ship fortunately remains quite free, thanks to the strict quarantine that has been observed. The Doris and other ships in the harbour have had some cases. In the evening we dined with the Governor at Malabar Point. There was a delightful sea breeze, with the sea breaking on the rocks close at hand, and bright moonlight ; the scene was lovely ! The bay is certainly very beautiful, not even surpassed by that of Naples, I think. This seems a very much better residence than Parell, though it appears Sir Phillip prefers the latter. The air is warm, 80 to 82 at noon, and very little lower at night. Small-pox has been prevailing here for some time, and is very bad at present ; forty-five deaths a day shew that the cases are numerous. The strictest quarantine has been maintained for the ships, and the Serapis has escaped, though other ships have not. I strongly advised the Prince not to go on shore more than he can possibly help, and to decline doing so at all after this evening. The municipal farewell address is to be presented on board, instead of at the Secretariat, as contemplated. The Prince is in excellent health, the suite and servants are well better, I think, than when they landed here four months ago. The Seraph has lost one man from fever, one from cholera, and one drowned by falling into the river in Calcutta. These are the only casualties, so far. We have reason to be thankful that they have been so few ! Sunday, 12th March, 1876, Serapis, Bombay Harbour. W r eather warm, and damp ; thermometer 82 in my cabin. Service on board ; 136 Reading and writing letters. The Prince went to dine with Admiral Macdonald on board the flag-ship Undaunted. I went with Sir B. Frere in the evening to dine with Sir M. Westropp, the Chief Justice, having driven previously with the Hunters', and paid them a visit at their house, before going to Sir M. W's., on Malabar hill. It was a lovely night, and the view of the bay from the terrace of Sir M. W's house, which is on the highest part of the hill, was charming. There was a pleasant breeze, and it felt comparatively cool ; it certainly is much more agreeable here than at Parell. Bombay is certainly cooler than it was in November. Monday, i$th March, 1876, Serapis, Bombay Harbour. Warm, oppressive night. Slept in my cot; 82 in cabin. Reading and writing in my cabin ; wrote to Sir W. Jenner. The Prince has con- sented not to go on shore again, and I have urged that all communica- tion with the shore should be as limited as possible. The farewell address from the Bombay municipality was formally read on board by a Parsee gentleman. Dr. Hewlett and others came off with him. Sir P. Woodhouse and the staff, and Sir F. Souter, with many others, came to say farewell, and remained to lunch on board. We took leave of our Indian companions : Browne, Bradford, B. Williams, Sartorious; and of our native servants. I was very sorry to part with Ibrahim ; he has been the best of servants ! Furzund returns to Calcutta. I gave them testimonials. Mr. Hardinge and the com- pounder also took their leave. The Prince presented Mr. Hardinge with a beautiful goldwatch, and the compounder with a ring. Mr. H. did his work admirably, and leaves us with the good opinion of all. The Prince presented souvenirs to the Indian members of his suite. I sent a revolver by Bradford to Akbar Sahib, my attendant in the Terai ; I was sorry not to have seen him again. The horses were all left behind to be sold at Allahabad I wonder who will get Freddie ! At 4 p.m. the anchor was up and we steamed out of harbour, escorted by the Osborne and Raleigh, Captain Tryon. It is just seventeen weeks since we arrived here from England, and I am thankful to say we are all leaving in good health, except Rose, of the loth Hussars, who has slight fever, General Hardinge, Colonel Annesley, and Captain Gough are with the Prince, having been invited to go home in the Serapis. The usual salutes were fired, ships were decorated, and yards manned. The Maharajah of Jeypore has sent each of the suite a souvenir, which reached us at Bombay ; to me a beautiful enamel bracelet for my wife. The Maharajah of Cashmir has also sent each of us a souvenir of Jummoo; mine is a goblet of chased silver, the peculiar work of Cashmir. We find the animals have all got safely on board : three tigers, several leopards, two bears, one thar, one manis from Nepaul, one Cashmir stag, several Cashmir goats, several cheetul, hog deer and black buck, two elephants (one female, aged seven, presented by Digbijeh Sing, at Lucknow), a small, fleet mucknah, named Jung Pershad, also seven years old, pre- sented by Sir Jung Bahadur in the Terai ; a team of grey Arabs that have gone with us all over India ; a bay Arab presented by Sir Jung, and the three English horses all safe and well after their long journey in India ; certain wild cats, monkeys, and a magnificent collection of Himalayan and Cashmerian pheasants. Mr. Bartlett has a great collection of skins, horns, heads, birds and fish. These, with the living animals to look after, will give him plenty to do on the way 137 home. The pheasants are placed in cages on the upper deck, pro- tected by canvas coverings from the weather. The ship is a floating menagerie, but all arranged with so much care and neatness that not the least inconvenience or annoyance arises from them. Mr. Bartlett has two natives and a marine to look after the animals ; and each elephant has a mahout, so that the best provision is made for their care ! My sick-bay man Duggan has resumed charge of the medicine chests. The ship is in beautiful order, and our cabins have all been repainted. We resumed our old places, as on the voyage out. The Serapis feels like home, and we are always glad to come back to her ; nothing can exceed the kindness, courtesy and attention we receive from everyone on board. We left Bombay with fine weather, smooth water, and a fresh breeze from the N.W. ; thermometer 82 it certainly promises to be warm. I am glad we have got away. We are a little later than I recommended, but all are well. I shall be anxious for a few days about small-pox, but hope we have no contagion on board. Thanks to the watchful care of Captain Glyn and Dr. Watson, the Serapis has hitherto escaped ! Tuesday, i^th March, 1876, at sea. Steaming for Aden. Ther- mometer 80 to 82 in cabin ; very little variation from day to night. Light breeze, smooth water, all ports open. We are running n to \\\ knots, Raleigh and Osborne in company. Rose is better ; the suite are well. The slight swelling on the Prince's leg below the knee, where he bruised it four months ago, is still there, but it gives no pain, a little iodine is applied occasionally ; he looks in excellent health, is slighter, and is browned by exposure to the sun and air. Wednesday, i$th March, 1876, Arabian Sea. Weather fine, but very warm ; thermometer 80 to 82 ; same at night. Light, fair breeze; we are going ii knots, all ports open. I am writing letters. Our occupation and mode of spending the day much as when we were coming out ; lawn tennis on deck ; daily inspection of the animals. The little elephants are taken out for an airing every morning; they have many antics. The Raleigh and Osborne have each a number of animals on board ; the latter has two baby elephants that came from Dacca. Thursday, i6th March, 1876, Arabian Sea. Thermometer 82; same at night ; air very damp and oppressive ; all well. Southern Cross beautifully seen. Friday, ijth March, 1876, Arabian Sea. Fine weather, fair wind, smooth water ; thermometer 80 in my cabin, very little variation day or night. Reading, writing, the usual routine of meals, walks, visits to animals, &c. Rose is better. The Osborne ran alongside to- day, when the two little elephants came to the side and salaamed ! Saturday, iSth March, Arabian Sea. It gets warmer and closer as we approach the Gulf of Aden. Thermometer day and night 83 dry bulb ; wet bulb 79 ; sea water 79. We have made a good run to-day. Sunday, igth March, Gulf of Aden. Fine day, light breeze, very hot, and gets hotter and closer as we near the land running up the Gulf of Aden thermometer 84 ; no variation day and night. Service on deck this morning, Mr. York officiating. I should have mentioned that the last telegrams about Duckworth from Lahore were very favourable. He is going to Calcutta, and will come home with Lord Northbrook next month. Service on deck at 3 p.m. Aden i sight ! 13* We arrived at Aden at 7.30 p.m. ; General Schneider, Col. Penn and staff came on board. We take in 170 tons of coal. Osbornc had gone on yesterday, and arrived at 3 p.m. to-day, so they were pre- pared ; Raleigh came with us. The P. and O. mail steamer is lying close to us. No ceremony on the occasion, as it was evening. Here we had the sad news that the Bishop of Calcutta died at Rawal Pindee since we left India. This will be an irreparable loss. Duckworth con- valescent. We coaled until after midnight ; took on board three full-grown ostriches (presented by General Schneider) and some Aden sheep. The animals are doing well. Mr. Mudd is on board the Osborne with his plants; he reports at Aden that they are doing well. A few of the Himalayan pheasants and black partridges have died ; the rest are looking very well. Got home letters up to the 24th inst. : all well. Monday, 2Oth March, 1876, from Aden to Red Sea. We left Aden at 2 a.m. On going on deck early I found a fresh breeze and smooth water ; thermometer in cabin 82 ; air damp and muggy. Passed through the smaller straits of Bab-el-mandeb at 11.30. Fresh breeze and bright sky; as we ran through, the green water the line of surf, and the men coming down to the point to salute, looked very picturesque. In the Red Sea. A register from the sick-bay on the upper deck fore part of the ship, large, airy cabin, shews : 7a.m. ... dry bulb 84 wet 81 Noon ... 86 82 4 p.m. ... 87 82 8p.m.... 86 82 The thermometer registers perhaps slightly too high. Stoke-hole at noon, 137; sea water at noon, 80; 7 p.m., 80. Wind S.S.E., force 4. The animals are pretty well, but look languid ! The cheetah is very low, one elephant is ailing slightly, a Tragopan pheasant broke his leg, and a black partridge has died. All our party are pretty well, but the heat is inconvenient. The nights are trying. Some sleep on deck or in the deck-house ! Tuesday, 2ist March, 1876, Red Sea. Fresh breeze during the night. We passed a critical point, a channel between two islands, last night at about 8 p.m. Having got rather near the land, altered our course slightly during the night, when a sea came in on the port side and wet some of the cabins. At about 5 a.m. we met the outward- bound mail steamer, and got papers up to the loth March. The Gazette of the 7th March contains our promotion in the order. We stopped at 9 a.m. to repair something about the machinery. The mail steamer Hydaspes passed us, but in half an hour we went on again and overtook her. Temperature in my cabin, 82; damp, muggy heat. 7a.m.... dry bulb 8t wet 78 Noon ... 82 ...... 78 4p.m.... 82 78 8p.m. ... 87 78 Sea water, noon, 80; 7 p.m., 79. Wind S.S.E. to S.S.W. Evening, light breeze ; the air feels very damp to-day. Wednesday, 22nd March, 1876, Red Sea. Mail steamer out of 139 sight. It is cooler to-day : we have now a light, northerly breeze- ship going only about ten knots. Temperature in my cabin, 79 ; air bright, clear and dryer; all well. I visited the stoke-hole and engine- room with Dr. Woods ; temperature of former, 130; of latter, 114 men looked well. It is marvellous how Europeans can stand four hours' work in this temperature. The weather is getting much cooler, the breeze being northerly and fresh. The ship is not going so well, only making g\ to 10 knots ; this is owing to the weeds on her bottom, and the machinery really is not intended for a continuance of more than 9 to 10 knots of average speed. In the evening at sunset saw the high land of the African coast, distant about 90 miles. Latitude to-day at noon, 19 50' N.; longitude, 38 50' ; distance run, 249 miles. Some Thibet dogs that have felt the heat very much, are picking up, and playing about the decks. The pheasants are being placed in new and larger cages. 7 a.m. ... dry bulb 78 wet 75 Noon ... 81 75 4 p.m. ... 82 76 8p.m.... 70 72 Sea water, noon, 77; 8p.m., 76; specific gravity, 1030; stoke-hole at noon, 130. Thursday. 2yd March, 1876, Red Sea. Fine morning, air damp, but cooler; thermometer at n a.m. in cabin, 77. Last night when I was asleep, one of two native tulwars (sword) fell from where it was hung on the bulkhead, on my forehead, and made a deep cut. We are going 9^ knots an hour; water smooth ; light head wind. The engines or boiler are evidently defective at present. Lord S. complains of rheumatic pains, from a chill caught through sleeping in a draught; Rose is well. Reading and writing ; writing to the Queen, ready for next opportunity, and home. 7a.m. ... dry bulb 77 wet 72 Noon ... 79 73 4 p.m. ... 83 75 8p.m. ... 79 73 Stoke-hole 132 noon ; sea water, noon, 76 ; 8 p.m., 75. Wind N.N.W. ; force I to 2; sp. gr. sea water 1030. We lose the Southern Cross to-night. Latitude 23 23' N. at noon. Longitude 36 59' E. at noon. Course and distance run N., 25 40' W., 235 miles. Doedalus light N. 34, W. 14 miles. Suez Lighthouse 465 miles. Land on port side visible. Friday, 2^th March., 1876, Red Sea. Calm, glassy sea. We are going rather better. Slept last night with a Scotch plaid over me. Thermometer 75 in cabin at noon ; air feels dryer ! Osborne gone on to Suez to tell Lord Lytton, the new Viceroy of India, who is to meet us, that we shall be there to-morrow at about 10 a.m. The Prince gave me an Abyssinian cross, a masonic token that he has presented to all the masonic members of his suite; also a small silver medal, with plumes and cipher as a souvenir of the expedition. Two more pheasants died last night; the other animals are well except the cheetah. The elephants, horses, and gainies are exercised daily on deck. Four p.m. we are entering the Straits of Jubal and Gulf of Aden. Water quite green ; land on both sides. We cannot see Sinai, though 146 the range of mountains in which it is situated are seen. The coast is arid, but the fresh ripple on the green water with the bright sky gives a cheerful aspect to the scene. Latitude 26 58' N. ; distance 255 miles ; longitude 34 29' S. ; Suez light 230 miles at noon. It is much cooler ; thermometer 24 ; breeze now southerly. Saturday, 2th March, 1876, arrived at Suez. Fine bright morn- ing; sea looks beautifully green and fresh ; many birds about the ship. Hills rugged and barren, but the sandy shore is bright and yellow, It was quite cold during the night. Thermometer 68 this morning, it was much lower during the night. At 8 a.m. we are near Suez, and are going along with a fresh breeze. Arrived at Suez at about 9 a.m. Directly we anchored, Lord and Lady Lytton, Col. O. Burne, Private Secretary, and other members of his suite came on board. I was introduced to Lord and Lady Lytton. The Prince was received here with the usual honours, ships decorated, yards manned. We landed and started at once by special train for Cairo, having stopped for a few minutes at Zag-a-Zig to lunch; arrived at Cairo at about 5 p.m. The Prince was met by the Grand Duke Alexis, of Russia, the Pacha and his sons, with guards of honour and bands playing. The Viceregal carriages were ready, and we drove off to our old quarters at Gizereh. The Grand Duke Alexis dined with us. He seemed amused when H.R.H. described the cause of the wound on my forehead which by the way is healing I was cut to the bone, and it is fortunate my eye was not knocked out, which it certainly would have been had the sword fallen there instead of on my forehead. I am indebted to James for this, he had taken the sword down to clean and put it back on the wall, simply resting on two nails ; the motion of the ship during the night brought it down on my head. I awoke with a start, and found my forehead wet; on striking a light I found that I was streaming with blood, and cut to the bone ; the metal handle had inflicted the wound. Watson dressed it for me. It will leave a permanent scar ! The Grand Duke is a captain in the Russian navy, and his frigate, the Svetlana, is at Alexandria, where she will be joined by the Serapis and Osborne. After dinner the Prince and some of the suite went with the Grand Duke to the opera, I remained at home to write, got no less than three mails to-day from home. The weather is delightful, and to us it feels quite cool ; during the day it is hot in the sun. Sunday, 26th March, 1876, Cairo, Gizereh Palace. We are glad to be back here again, and I am very sensible how fortunate we are to have accomplished it all so well. We have not lost any of our party. Gray has been invalided, but we hear he is quite well again, and Duckworth left behind, he got his fever when he was away from us, but is now quite convalescent, and will be in England almost as soon as we shall. Considering all we have gone through, risks from climate, elephant and tiger shooting, pig-sticking, frequent and rapid changes of climate and temperature, heat and damp, cold and dry heat, and that we have besn over the whole of India, from Ceylon to Jummoo, during a bad cholera year, and have also been exposed to a small-pox epidemic, with a large party of Europeans, many of them quite fresh to the country, ignorant of the effects of a tropical climate, and frequently rash in exposing themselves to the sun or to extreme cold, and to possible malarious influences, highly fed ; constantly in a state of excitement or fatigue from festivities, ceremonies, hunting expedi- tions, &c., &c., it is subject for congratulation, that they have come out of it so well, and that the Prince is even in better health than when he left England. Sunday, 26th March, 1876, Gizereh Palace. Lovely morning; the gardens of the Gizereh look beautiful. After breakfast I drove with Sir Bartle Frere, Col. Annesley and Dr. Russell to Cairo. We went to General Stauntons, then to Shepherd's Hotel, where Sir Bartle had a long conversation with Mr. Rivers Wilson. We called on Nubar Pacha, and then left our cards at the Grand Duke Alexis', who is living in another Viceregal Palace in Shoubrah. We then drove back to Gizereh. After lunch we returned to Cairo, and I went, by the Prince's desire, to see Captain Percy, who was ill at Shepherd's, suffering from fever, caught by exposing himself too much at the Pyramids, where I met Dr. Grant, who was attending him. We then drove along the Shoubrah road, and saw numbers of harem ladies driving in Broughams, scarcely more concealed than English ladies would be, in close carriages, with the windows and blinds down; some had guards of eunuchs riding behind or sitting on the box in front, others had only a coachman ! The ladies are evidently allowed much more liberty now than formerly. This is the Mall, the fashionable resort of Cairo, and very amusing it is to study the variety of equipages and costumes, from the grandest English carriage to the humble donkey, which will, I suppose, always be a popular mode of locomotion in Cairo. We drove home and dined quietly there ; the Prince dined with the Grand Duke. Some of the suite went to the Opera; 1'Africaine was performed. I retired early. My room is near the one I had when last here, and is large and gorgeously furnished. I shudder when I think of the horrors of the last night I spent here, tormented by that dreadful cramp and devoured by mosquitos ! Monday, 2'jth March, 1876, Gizereh Palace. The Prince does not wish to hurry home, as he desires to avoid arriving in the cold spring weather. A visit to Spain and Portugal is probable after we have been to Malta and Gibraltar. Sir B. Frere and Lord Alfred are going to leave us, and go home shortly. To-day I drew some money on a circular letter of credit, from the Ottoman Bank at Cairo. Went with Annesley to Cairo, sight-seeing and shopping. We visited Boulac Museum ; Marriette Bey was not at home, but we saw the very interesting antiquities. We then went to the Island of Rhoda, and visited an old deserted palace and garden, but did not succeed in finding the Nilometer, as the only man we saw there could speak nothing but Arabic, but we enjoyed the expedition all the same. After returning to Gizereh to lunch, went to Cairo with S. Hall and saw Sultan Hussein's Mosque. We dine with the Khedive to-night. The day was^ sultry, very dusty, and the flies a great pest. I wrote home to-day ; also to Duckworth at Calcutta, enclosing him a letter from my wife. I swallowed an Egyptian fly to-day horror ! ! it nearly made me sick. There was a dinner party at the Abdeen Palace, and a great reception ; ladies were present. It was very grand, but hot and tiring. There were many Pachas and high officials, with endless decorations and grand cordons. Of course, we wore our Turkish orders. It was a lovely starlight night as we drove home. I met more than one Englishman or American dressed and titled as I 4 2 Pacha. The Khedive appears to have employes of all nationalties in his service. Tuesday, 2%th March, 1876, Gizereh. At 7 a.m. Probyn, Annesley, Fitzgeorge, Gough and I set off on an expedition to the Pyramids. We went by train from the Boulac Station to one near the site of the ancient Memphis. Mounting donkeys we rode to Sakarah, about five miles across the desert, passed over the site of Memphis, a few fragments of which remain, and surrounded with the debris of ancient buildings. A colossal granite statue of Sesostris lies prone in the mud, where it is covered every year by the rising Nile. It was presented to the English by Mahomet Ally, I am told, but has been left where it fell, with its grand imposing figure, and placid stone face calmly resting on the slime. At Sakarah we visited the Serapeum, with its underground galleries and colossal sarcophagi, the tombs of the sacred bulls. How they got there is an unexplained marvel. The sarcophagi are empty, the lids having been pushed aside by former explorers. We visited other tombs that of Tih is curiously decorated with hieroglyphics, which can all now be read as easily as print, and are in a remarkable state of preservation and freshness of colour. It is wonderful how thoroughly the Egyptians, like other Orientals, caught the distinguishing features of character of the animals they depict. We then went over mounds of broken earthenware, with bones scattered here and there probably former burial places to a house on a rocky ridge in the desert, a place where Marriette Bey takes up his quarters when investigating the ruins, and here we had lunch. We then mounted, and rode off to the Pyramids of Gizeh, and after a ride of eight or nine miles across the desert, the last part on the margin of the land watered by the Nile, and green with verdure, where I gathered some wild flowers, we came to the Pyramids ; the first object we stopped to examine was the grand old Sphynx We explored one of the excavations, and then passed on to the house, at the foot of the Great Pyramid, where the nautch was held when we were here on our way out. Annesley and I remained below, whilst the others ascended the Great Pyramid, and went into the King's chamber. Having done this on a former occasion, and my leg still being weak, we remained below and amused ourselves by talk- ing to the Arabs and examining their curiosties coins, beetles, &c. The Viceregal carriages had been sent to meet us, all preparations having been made by our good friend Mustapha Pacha, who sent an officer to escort us, we drove back to Gizereh, after a very pleasant, though rather tiring day. It had been lovely, the air bright and cool, though the sun was rather trying as we rode over the desert and a donkey is rather a tiring mode of conveyance. The khamseen was blowing, but did not feel so very oppressive. After dinner we went to the opera one of Offenbach's, " Les Brigands." There was also a ballet, but I did not remain long; went behind the scenes with others and found a large gathering of Pachas talking to the actors and actresses. Wednesday, 2gth March, 1876, Gizereh Palace. Fine, clear day; night pleasantly cool. Walked in the gardens early with Annesley, and saw the lions and other wild beasts. About noon we went with the Prince to see the museum at Boulac; crossing the river in a steamer, we landed at the steps of the museum. Marriette Bey escorted the Prince over the museum, and explained the numerous objects of interest; especially pointing out some of the recent dis- coveries at Sakarah ; it is wonderful how easily the inscriptions and hieroglyphics are now interpreted, and many of the ancient statues identified. Some officers of the Serapis have come to Cairo from Alexandria, and called at the Palace. I took them over the garden. We dined at 7 p.m., and then the Prince and suite went in state to the opera. It was " Aida," Verdis' new opera an Egyptian story ; the scenery and stage arrangements were beautiful ; the dresses, decora- tions, and scenery have all received Marriette Bey's approval. The Pyramids and the Island of Phyle were beautifully represented ; the " mise en scene" was excellent. I went behind the scenes with the Prince and we inspected the machinery by which all this wonderful stage effect was produced. What a chaos it seems ! A party of the servants went to the Pyramids to-day. Dr. Sonsino, an Italian physician, called, and said he wished to show me specimens of hcematozoa. Lord C. B. left for England yesterday in the Osborne for Brindisi ; he will rejoin us at Malta. The thermometer in the shade at 10 a.m. to-day was 75. The climate is delightful, it must be splendid in the winter ! Thursday, y>th March, 1876, Gizereh Palace. Cloudy, rather sultry morning. The khamseen is blowing, but it is not nearly so oppressive as a hot day in Bengal. Went to Cairo, called on Dr. Sonsino and Dr. Sachs; they showed me the Bilharzia, and also a filaria discovered by Dr. Sonsino in the blood of a boy suffering from that disease. It is the same as that discovered by Lewis in Calcutta. Went with Dr. S. to the hospital, but as they made difficulties about admitting us, we came away without seeing it. We remained at home in the afternoon ; walked in the gardens with Sir B. Frere, and looked at the lions. Went to see Offenbach's " Bracconiers," very amusing and sparkling, but not such as one would care to take a young English lady to see. Thermometer to-day rose to 84 in the house. Ellis and Lord de Grey went out quail shooting, and shot thirty couple near the Pyramids. The Prince is visiting the Grand Duke, but dines and lunches frequently at Gizereh. Friday, $ist March, 1876, Gizereh Palace. Hot wind, the kham- seen, blowing. Went with Annesley to see the tombs of the Khaliphs ; the carpet bazaar, where I bought a small rug ; and then to see the dancing and howling Dervishes; and very ridiculous and degrading it is to see intelligent men so misconceiving and misapplying religious sentiment! However, it is something to have seen. One of the Dervishes howled himself into a fit of convulsions, but the others took not the least notice of their confrere, and left him to recover as he best might. Called on Drs. Sonsino and Sachs again and saw the filaria under the microscope. We had lunch, and then I drove with Annesley on the Shoubrah road. Went to the opera and saw a selection from Barbiere, Sardnapalus and other pieces. Went home early, having letters to write. The khamseen is blowing, but I am told it is never very hot until after the I5th April. Saturday, ist April, Gizereh Palace. Fine morning, but rather hot. The Viceroy came to Gizereh to take leave of the Prince, who left Cairo at about 3 p.m. We had a special train of viceregal carriages, conducted by Betts Bey, our good friend Mustapha Pacha, with other dignitaries in attendance. The road lay over the richly cultivated delta, and across canals and branches of the Nile. We reached the new station at Alexandria at about 7, where there was a great crowd. The viceregal carriages took us through the city, but though it was almost dark the streets and balconies were filled with people. The viceregal barges were waiting, at the pier, to take us on board the Serapis. The Russian frigate Svetlana is lying near, and the officers have fraternised with those of the Serapis. Sunday, April 2nd, Serapis in harbour, Alexandria. Fine morning, cool breeze; thermometer 68 to 70. The Grand Duke, Baron Schilling his A.D.C., and Dr. De Koudrine, H.I.H.'s physician and medical officer of the Svetlana came on board to lunch. We had service on board. Went on shore with Probyn in the afternoon ; we were joined by Lieut. Prickett, R.N., and Lieut. Burroughs, R.M., and drove to see Pompey's Pillar, Cleopatra's Needle and the fallen Obelisk. They were brought here by Cleopatra, and stood at the entrance of a Temple of the Sun ; one has fallen, and lies in a hollow in the ground. The hieroglyphics are worn away on the side facing the desert by the impact of the fine sand, which has been blown against it for 2,000 years or more ; drove along the canal as far as the Public Gardens and then back to the pier met the Prince and the Grand Duke driving. We dined on board the Svetlana with the Grand Duke, who was most gracious : he asked me about my sword wound. The Svetlana has a splendid crew of men of the Naval Guard ; they sang Russian songs and danced. I went over the frigate with one of the Lieutenants and Dr. De Koudrine. She is a fine frigate, is heavily armed, and would be a formidable antagonist. The weather is disturbed, threatening rain and more wind. We returned to the Serapis at about 11.30 p.m. Monday, yd April. The wind has gone down, and the sea is calm. We left Alexandria at about 5 a.m., the Raleigh, Research and Invincible in company. Thermometer 66 ; the air feels almost cold. At 9 or 10 a.m. a fog came on, the ships sounding their fog-horn signals. At noon we were in latitude 31 34' N. ; longitude, 28 46' S. Malta distant 757 miles. In the afternoon the weather was beautiful, sea smooth j thermometer 65. The bandmaster and Mr. D., assistant- paymaster, have been left behind. About the latter his messmates are rather anxious, as he was in low spirits when he went on shore, and is said to have destroyed his papers. He had been missing for two days. The bandmaster has simply been too late, and missed his passage. Sir Bartle Frere left us yesterday to go home by the Austrian, Lloyd's steamer. Our party is gradually diminishing. Gough and Rose have gone home ; Lord A. Paget left us at Cairo. The manis, the most interesting creature we have brought with us, died to-day. Mr. Bartlett will preserve it in spirits. Tuesday, 4th April, 1876, Mediterranean Sea. Fine day, cloudy, with light rain in the morning ; fresh, fair wind, sail set. The Raleigh and Invincible are close to us. The Prince was rather indisposed yesterday, but is better this morning. At noon in latitude 33; longitude, 23 48' E. Run 268 miles. Thermometer down to 63 ; it feels pleasantly cool. Reading and writing in my cabin. Wednesday, $th April, 1876, Mediterranean Sea. The ports were closed last night, as there was some sea on. Fine weather; it feels quite cold, Thermometer, 63 ; latitude, 34 52' N. ; longitude, 1 8 51' E. Run 268 miles; Malta is distant 221. We are all well. Writing letters and reading. There is a good deal of motion, rolling to-day land in sight. There has evidently been wind here, but it is quiet now. 145 Thursday, April 6th, 1876. Arrived at Malta at about 9. The Governor and officials came off; salutes were fired and the ships decorated. We landed in great state, and drove up to the Governor's Palace, the Auberge of the Grand Master in the days of the Knights of St. John. We are in British territory again, and all the pomp and ceremony of a Royal reception was observed. There was lunch at the palace, and after it the Prince drove out with the Governor to see the Lunatic Asylum near Citta Vecchia. It is a well-built and admirably managed institution, containing about 300 patients ; we went all over it, and saw the inmates. Here I met Col. Ray, of the Engineers, who reminded me that he came home with us from India in 1858. There was a dinner party at the palace. It is a fine old building, full of pictures of former Grand Masters, old armour in the Armoury, and many other interesting relics of the Knights of St. John. I have a room in the palace; some of the suite are accommodated in other houses. Got two mails from home to-day ; wrote to my wife and to friends. The weather is pleasant, but rather warm, and there is much glare from the white stones of the buildings, and the white roads. Friday, 'jth April, 1876, Valetta. Fine weather; it >s quite cold at night. I went with C. this morning to see the Church of St. John. The marbles and the tombs of the knights are very interesting and beautiful. The Prince presented colours to the Q8th Regiment, with the usual military parade and ceremonies. After lunch I drove with Captain Douglas, Private Secretary to the Governor, to see the church at Murta. It has a dome nearly as large as that of St. Paul's, and was built by voluntary labour. We went to the top, ascending by the outside flight of steps on the dome, and had a fine view of Citta Vecchia and St. Paul's Bay, and the place " where two seas met." The island is well cultivated, though soil is scarce, and looks as if it had all been imported. It is divided into small fields and terraces by numerous walls. There is barley, red clover, potatoes and other pro- duce. Wine, grain and other food is imported from Sicily. Went over the Auberge de Castile, one of the old knightly residences. Met Dr. Fraser, C.B., who is P.M.O., also Dr. Crerar and Col. Delafosse, of Cawnpore celebrity, at dinner. I took Mrs. Delafosse to dinner, and sat next Mrs. Ray, an old fellow-passenger from India in 1858. A ball was given to the Prince at the Auberge de Provence, now a club. I met Hall, formerly of the ist Fusiliers, who was with us at Lucknow, in the defence of the Residency. He is now in the loist, stationed here. The Prince and all my party are well. The ball was very brilliant, and the uniforms and ladies' dresses looked very gay. I met several old friends here. Saturday ^th, April, 1876, Valetta. Fine morning, bright, clear sky, cold air. I went out into the town and bought some books the Knights of St. John and others went over the Library and the Museum, part of the old Grand Masters' palace ; then went with the Prince to see artillery practice from the forts it did not strike me that it was particularly good. Yesterday, when in the Armoury, I tried on a knight's armour ; it was so heavy and stiff that I could scarcely walk in it, and must have weighed at least 30 or 40 Ibs. After lunch I drove out with Drs. Watson and Ross, R.N., to see the garden of San Antonio ; they were very pretty, and full of orange trees, flowers, fruit and blossom, the perfume being delicious; the Bauhinia trees in blossom were very beautiful, as also a large white 1 4 6 creeper like the Datura. Am reading Porter's Knights of Malta. The Admiral, Sir J. Drummond, is here with the flag-ship and a fleet of men-of-war; they look very imposing in the harbour. We went in state to the opera, where a Russian prima donna sang well. The opera was a selection from Martha, with other pieces. Sunday, gth April, 1876, Valetta. Palm Sunday. Went to St. John's Church in the morning to see the pictures. Afterwards I went with the Prince to St. Paul's, an English Church the Bishop of Gibraltar preached. Drove with General and Lady Straubenzee to Vadalla, distant about nine miles ; it is one of the old knight's palaces, near the shore. Drove back with Sir Adrian Dingli, one of the high officials in Malta. He took me to the Cathedral at Citta Vecchia, and to the churches of St. Peter and Paul, and gave me much information about the island and the people. His accounts of the old knights were very interesting. I found him a most agreeable, kind and instructive companion, and enjoyed the drive very much. Dined with Dr. and Mrs. C. ; met Captain Griffin, of the g8th, at dinner. Saw some curiously small Maltese dogs. They are now beoming very rare. The Prince and some of the suite dined with the yist Regiment; others dined at the club. The mistral has been quite cold to-day, it threatens rain ; there was a shower yesterday with thunder. All are well. Monday, loth April, I8j6, Valetta. Started at 7 a.m. with Sir Adrian Dingli, who very kindly drove me to see St. Paul's Bay, distant about eight or nine miles. The day was most beautifully clear and bright, and the expedition was most interesting. I saw the exact spot where the Apostle is said to have been shipwrecked, the place where two seas met, round a small rocky island. I gathered and brought away some flowers. At about n a.m. I went with the Prince, the Governor, Lady S. and suite, to visit the schools, and it was most interesting and amusing to watch the energy with which the little boys answered questions, and how anxious they seemed to anticipate each other in doing so. They appear to be well managed and taught ; each boy learns English, Italian and Maltese. We then went to witness some torpedo experiments. The charges were exploded by contact or by the electric wire. The Prince appled the wire in some of the experi- ments ; they were successful in several instances, but not in all. The explosions made the solid rock, on which we stood, shake, threw up columns of water, and tore the object to pieces under which they were discharged. We then went by boat to the N.aval Hospital, Dr. Bernard went round with the Prince. It is beautifully situated, with pretty gardens, in one of the most picturesque parts of the island. The day was hot, and the glare from the white rock, especially when we were watching the torpedo experiments, was rather trying, as we did not now wear solah hats. We went to lunch on board the flag-ship Hercules, with the Admiral, Sir J. Drummond, and then on board the Serapis. Lords Suffield, Carrington and I went to the lodge of St. John and St. Paul, where Lord Delawarre, Dr. Russell, Mr. S. Hall and Captain Gough were made Masons. Mr. Kirkham, paymaster of the Osborne, took an important part in the ceremony, being a high Mason. After the lodge we returned to the Serapis, where the Prince gave a state dinner-party to the notabilities of Malta ; I was asked to sit between two Maltese gentlemen who could speak only Italian, and I did so. Went, by H.R.H.'s desire, with Ellis on board the yacht Speranza to see Col. W., who is very ill. I met his medical adviser, and made such suggestions as seemed desirable. '47 Lovely night. Very gay party on board, decks lighted and decorated. The bright, full moon made the harbour look lovely. The thermometer to-da^ has not been above 64 in the shade ; tramontana blowing. The party left the ship under a blaze of fireworks, blue lights, and a shower of rockets. We have enjoyed the visit to Malta very much. Major North, Captains Douglas and Dawson, as well as the Governor and Lady Straubenzee, were most kind. I shall not forget Sir Adrian Dingli's great kindness ! Tuesday, nth April, 1876, leave Valetta for Gibraltar. We got under weigh at 8.30 this morning, and went out of harbour, the ships and forts saluting, bands playing, and yards manned. It was a beautiful sight as we passed each ironclad. Colonel Macdonald, of the 7 ist, goes home with us. General Hardinge has left us for Italy. Lord C. Beresford has rejoined. Sir A. Dingli has promised to get me a cast made of a very interesting ancient skull in the Valetta Museum. The climate of Malta up to this time is certainly pleasant, and as a winter residence must be very agreeable ; but will soon be un- pleasantly hot, and after June it is not a desirable abode. There was a beautiful distant view of Etna as we left in the morning early, but the haze soon hid it from sight. Wednesday, I2th April, 1876, Mediterranean, en route for Gib- raltar. Lovely weather, smooth water; latitude (noon), 37 42' N. ; longitude, 8 44' E. Distance run, 286 miles. Reading English with Sirdar Onoop Sing. I should have mentioned that H.R.H. has invited two native officers of Probyn's old regiment to accompany him to England, and they are with us : Sirdars Onoop Sing, a Sikh, and Afzool Khan, an Afghan ; both remarkably fine specimens of their order. They are learning English, and have already made consider- able progress in the language ! Writing letters and reading The air feels chilly, though the thermometer stands at 65 ; it is bright and bracing. Towards evening it became cloudy, and rain fell. Wind rose in }he night, and the ports were closed. I am writing home and to friends, and to Sir A. Dingli. The animals are wonderfully well ; the cheetah is getting better. Thursday, i$th April, 1876. Ports closed, fresh breeze; dark cloudy weather, and a good deal of sea. Thermometer 62 to 64 ; the air does not feel so keen this morning. Latitude at noon, 37 36' N. ; longitude at noon, 3 f E. Distance run, 266 miles. No deaths among the animals lately. I am reading Porter's Knights of Malta. Rain and fresh breeze in the evening ; two reefs in the top- sails. A feed pipe breaking, we had to stop for a few minutes. Good Friday, i^th April, 1876, at sea, nearing Gibraltar. Fine morning as we ran along the Spanish coast, ports all opened again. Service on deck at n. At 12 we were off Cape de Gatta. From it a white chalk-like rock crops out, which is very conspicuous. Distance run, 269 miles; Gibraltar, 146 miles. Saw a good-sized whale spout- ing near us. We are going slowly 32 revolutions in order to arrive at a convenient hour. Lovely sunset; the coast of Spain only a few miles distant, with the mountainous outline of the Sierra Nevada looking very picturesque. Saturday, i$th 'April, 1876, Gibraltar. We arrived in the harbour at about 8 a.m., the ships and forts saluting. The Devastation and several other men-of-war are here. The Duke of Connaught, the Governor and suite with the Military authorities came on board. We 14$ anded in state at noon, and a procession was formed. I asked to be excused from riding on this occasion, on account of my leg, which I was afraid to trust for the first time on a strange horse, so I went in a carriage. General Somerset is commanding here ; the Duke of Connaught is Assistant-Adjutant-General. We passed through the town, which was gaily decorated, to the Convent (Government House), where there was a reception, and then went to the Duke of Connaught's house to lunch. We returned to the Serapis, but landed again to attend the Prince at a dinner party at General Somerset's. The Serapis and Osborne are moored to the pier in the Dockyard, near where the coal is stored on the wharf, so we can walk on shore ! The weather is pleasant and all are well. This is the first time I have seen the Duke of Connaught. The Prince presented me to H.R.H. this morning. Sunday (Easter), i6th April, 1876, Gibraltar. We live on board. Service on deck to-day by the Bishop of Gibraltar. I went to lunch at Dr. Erskine's, and went with him to the burial ground to see my poor little cousin Fanny's grave ; she died of fever here last year. Dr. and Mrs. E. were very kind to her. I gathered some geraniums growing near her grave to send to her mother. She was only nineteen years old. Visited the upper gallery. This is a wonderful fortification ! The weather is fine, and quite cool. Writing home letters. Monday, 17 th April, 1876, Gibraltar. Fine, cool day. The Prince reviewed the troops on the neutral ground ; there were several spills. I declined riding, for reasons before assigned. The foundation stone of a new one-gun fort called Alexandra was laid. It seems hardly appropriate to call a thing so destructive after a lady so gentle ! The Prince also laid the foundation stone of a new market, with Masonic honours. In the evening we walked in the Almeda Gardens and saw the illumination of the Rock. The ships in harbour were illuminated, and threw up countless rockets and bouquets of fireworks. It was a beautiful sight ! I have met several old friends ; Dr. Balfour, C.B., P.M.O., is an old friend. Mrs. G., wife of one the staff officers, is the daughter of an old Bermuda friend, Dr. H. I had not seen her since she was a child, now she has a grown-up daughter. I left the Almeda early, and walked on board. Found letters from home. Tuesday, i8th April, 1876, Gibraltar. Showery, windy day. A large party of thirty-five, including ladies, rode to a pic-nic in the cork woods. Dr. Balfour lent me a horse, and I rode, as I knew that if I found it too much for me I could drop out of the party and return. We had a long ride along the sandy shore for several miles, then across a hilly country for several more, till we came to the cork woods, which were very green and picturesque. Here lunch was prepared ; we picketed our horses, each being provided with a rope for the purpose. The place was a glade, under the shade of cork trees, near a well, the Venta. We returned by a different and longer route through the forest, and had some jumps over ditches, where one or two had falls, and passed through the picturesque town of San Roque, having ridden nearly 30 miles. There were showers but we escaped a wetting. Lord Suffield's horse fell into a wet ditch when he was trying to assist others, but neither he nor the horse were hurt. I was rather tired, but none the worse ; my little Spanish horse carried me well, and was quite 149 fresh when he came in. I dined with Dr. and Mrs. Balfour, and met there Dr. and Mrs. Erskine. It was raining when I returned to the ship at night. Wednesday, igth April, Gibraltar. Fine day; went to see the races and athletic sports on the neutral ground. Lord C. B. rode a race. I came back with Dr. E. ; went to the bank to get some money. Dined with the 23rd Fusiliers, saw their goat and heard their Welsh piper. Went to a ball given by the Governor, and returned to the Serapis at 12.30. The others went direct on board the Osborne, in which we are to sail for Cadiz early to-morrow morning. The Duke of Connaught, attended by Captain Fitzgerald and Lord F. Lennox, accompanies the Prince to Cadiz. Thursday, loth April, 1876, H.M.S. Osborne. The Serapis re- mains to coal and make some repairs; we go through Spain, and rejoin the ship at Lisbon. I went on board the Osborne at 6.30 a.m., with Glyn, who accompanies us, leaving Bedford in command of the Serapis. There was a fresh breeze and a good deal of sea, making the steam launch jump about freely. The Osborne dashed out into the Straits at the rate of 15 knots an hour. There was a good deal of sea and much motion. I kept on the bridge all the way, and just avoided being sea-sick. After passing the Straits the sea was very disagreeable, but we were off Cadiz before I p.m. We lunched on board with Durrant and his officers, and then landed quietly. The Prince is travelling here incog. Two Spanish noblemen (sent by the King) and the civil authorities met the Prince on the pier and went straight to the railway station, where a special train was prepared to take the Prince to Seville. We left Cadiz at 4 p.m., and passed over flat, marshy country covered with salt pyramids ; this is a great salt manufactory. We soon came to Xeres and saw the vineyards where the Xeres' grapes are grown, and reached Seville about 7 p.m. The day was cloudy, stormy, and quite cool. We found quarters prepared for the Prince at the Fonda (Hotel) deQuatre Nations, and at the Fonda Americana, close to the great square. We arrived just at the close of the great fair. After dinner some of us went out and walked about the town, and in one of the principal streets, or rather boulevards, and saw the people of all classes enjoying themselves, dancing Boleros in the booths, which are erected side by side along the street. We went into several and watched the dancing. The ladies were very prettily dressed, and looked and danced well. There were booths for the artillery, the line, and the staff; one, we w;re told, belonged to the Tor/eros (bull fighters) a very important class here ! The Duke of Connaught, Captain Fitzgerald, Lord F. Lennox and Prince Louis of Battenberg are with us. The hotels are not particularly good, but Senor Murietta has been very kind in providing for us. Friday, 2ist April, 1876, Seville. Cold, cloudy day. We had breakfast at n, and then went with the Prince to the Cathedral. Saw the beautiful Murillos, and especially noticed the San Antonio from which the head of the saint was cut out and stolen some time ago and found again in New York. It has been so well repaired that it is almost impossible to see where it was cut. There was also a lovely Madonna, by Alonzo Cano. Went to the Library of Columbus, and saw some very interesting books and MSS. After this we went to the races, which were tolerably good, and most interesting from the L 150 costumes of the spectators. The Prince introduced me to Madame Murietta, a Spanish lady, well known in London society, who lives here. We drove home at 5.30 p.m., and dined at 7. After this we went to a public dancing hall, where we saw Spanish dances in costume the Gipseys danced very like the Indian nautch girls. The Spaniards danced Boleros, and one girl danced beautifully ; how she managed it on her high-heeled shoes, I cannot tell; she used the castanets with great effect. I walked home to the hotel with the Duke ; he had a bad cold, and I prescribed some remedies. I had good news from home up to the ijth. Saturday, 22nd April, 1876, Seville. I went with the Duke of Connaught and Captain Fitzgerald to see the Alcazar, a Royal Palace, of Moorish architecture. I went there again with the Prince of Wales. The gardens, fountains and flower beds, the Moorish carvings and decorations of the Palace are very beautiful. We also went to the Museo and saw the marvellous Velasquez pictures. We afterwards visited the great factory, where 6,500 women and girls are employed in making cigars and cigarettes it is a most wonderful place ! I went to look at the bull-ring and saw all the imple- ments for bull-fighting the bandilleros, flags, &c., the places where the bulls are confined, and whence they are let out into the arena. The Prince declined to witness any bull-fights. There had been several the week before we arrived, and numbers of horses and bulls had been killed. Dined at 7.30, and then went in state to the theatre. There was a Spanish comedy, and dancing. I left after the first act and went home. The Duke is quite well again. I went to the Cathedral with the Duke of Connaught and several of our party this morning, and heard high mass. Saw the Murillos and that lovely Madonna of Alonzo Cano's again. We went to see the Duke of Montpensier's palace, and lunched in the fardens. Madame M. and other Spanish ladies, with several panish gentlemen were there. Drove into the country and saw the Spanish gentlemen ride with blunt spears after some bulls, and very dexterously turn them over. It looked easy enough, but Probyn, Beresford and Carrington tried, and said it was not so easy as it seemed. Drove home to dinner and wrote letters. The day has been beautiful. The hotel is very noisy. Dr. Russell presented me with a Spanish vocabulary to-day. Monday, 2^th April, Seville. Went with Probyn shopping, and bought some gloves, which are good and cheap. Paid another visit to the Museo to see the pictures, then went to the Caridad, where there are some lovely Murillos. At 2 p.m. we went to the railway station and got into a special train for Cordova. The country is uninteresting until near Cordova. There is a certain amount of beauty in the hills, clothed with olives, but no great variety, though the Sierra Moreno is very imposing as you approach the city. There was a great crowd at the railway station. Carriages were in waiting and we drove at once through the narrow, but clean and picturesque streets to the Cathedral, which is most interesting. It is an old Moorish mosque converted into a Catholic Cathedral, retaining all its Moorish pillars and colonnades, with rich modern additions. The carved work of the chancel is splendid. The organ is one of the finest in the world. We ascended a square tower and had a magnificent view of the hills and surrounding country, dotted with white houses. It was a lovely sunset view. We then went to the Casino and Club, where we saw the gambling tables. The club looked uncommonly comfortable ; one wonders how so small a place can support such an institution. It is said to be noted for gambling. We then adjourned to the Hotel de Europa, for dinner. I went off to look for an apothecary's shop to get some creosote, the Prince having tooth-ache. I found one, and an apothe- cary who reminded me of those one reads of in Gil Bias. After a capital dinner we returned to our train, and made our- selves as comfortable as possible for the night; at 9 p.m. we started for Madrid. I slept pretty well in the train. The night was not cold. Tuesday, 2$th April, 1876. We arrived at Madrid at 7 a.m. King Alfonzo, with many grandees, was at the station to receive the Prince, and welcomed H.R.H. very cordially. Salutes were fired and bands played. We were in full uniform and drove off in procession in the Royal carriages, to the Palace, through streets crowded with curious spectators and lined with troops. On arriving at the Palace the Prince presented us all to the King and to his sister, the Princess of Asturias, who received us very graciously. The King is a slight, active-looking man, of 19, his sister being a few years older. His Majesty speaks English, has been in England, and was a student at Sandhurst when summoned to the throne of Spain. We are all accommodated in the Palace, and have magnificent rooms, decorated with pictures, tapestry, and all that is splendid and royal. My windows look on the city, and on the chain of the Sierra Guadarama. After lunch Probyn, Russell and I went out driving in a Royal carriage. Visited the Museo, one of the finest picture galleries in the world the collection of the Spanish School is unrivalled ; indeed, all schools are well represented except the English. We then drove on the Buen Retiro, and saw the fashionable world eating the air on the Mall of Madrid ; then to the Prado, a grand boulevard ; Calle Alcala, Piazza de St. Anna, and home through the Puerta del Sol. The Prince dined with the King; we dined at 8 p.m., and several of the high officers of the court with us. I have three Princes under my charge now the Prince of Wales, the Duke of Connaught, and Prince Louis of Battenberg. The weather is very fine, but the Sierra Guadarama is still covered with snow, and looks very beautiful from the Palace windows. The Palace is on an elevated plateau, and dominates the city. Dr. Jelly, an English physician, practising at Madrid, called on me. I had letters from home to-day all well. Wednesday, 26th April, 1876, Madrid. Beautiful day. Paid another visit, with Probyn and Annesley, to the Gallery, to see the Murillos and Velasquez. At 2 p.m. we went to see a review, or rather march past, of the Spanish army ; 25,000 men are here, the rest hav- ing gone home on leave since the war concluded. Went with Russell and others to the Palace of the Duke of Sestos, where, from the windows we saw the troops march past. The Prince and the King attended by their suites, were not far from the Duke of Sesto's house. The troops struck me as being particularly fine-looking men very well dressed and set up. There was a grand state banquet at the palace and a reception after it all the elite of Madrid present. The reception rooms are very beautiful. Thursday, 2-]th April, 1876, Madrid to Toledo. We went at 8 a.m. in the Royal train, His Majesty and several dignitaries ac- companying the Princes to Toledo. The journey took two-and-half hours, rapid travelling. We had breakfast in the train on the way. Went all over this interesting city, and visited several churches one in which the old Cortes used to be held; went to the manufactory of arms, and saw the whole process of sword making, from the beginning to the end it is most interesting. Went to the Cathedral, and saw all the treasures; it is a grand, but very sombre looking building. At one moment I observed a group standing on the steps of the great altar the Prince of Wales, Duke of Connaught, King Alfonzo, Cardinal Moreno, Prince Louis of Battenberg, several Spanish grandees and English peers. Visited the Alcazar, now a military college for cadets ; had lunch with the officers. Then a parade of cadets, who cheered the King and Princes. We returned to Madrid ; dined at the Palace ; went to the opera, and afterwards to a ball at the palace of the Duke of Fernan Nunez. Saw Marshal Serrano and other celebrities. It was a beautiful day, but very hot walking about in Toledo, and in the train on the banks of the Tagus. Wrote home, and to friends. I was very tired when I got back, after a hard day's work. Friday, I'&th April, 1876, Madrid to the Escurial. To-day His Majesty accompanied the Princes to visit the Escurial. This Palace is built on the slopes of the Sierra Guadarama. We went over it, and saw the pictures, much very beautiful tapestry, the church, which is built of grey granite, and the room in which King Phillip lived and died in sight of the grand altar and the chair in which he sat, the table at which he wrote, and the rest on which he supported his gouty foot. In the gardens we saw a curiously painted and decorated summer-house, and inspected a school, which is especially patronized by the young King. When in the Escurial we saw the burial-place of the Kings and Queens of Spain, and the Sarcophagi in which they rest. King Alfonzo pointed out one which he said was for him some day ! On our return to Madrid, the Duke of Connaught and his suite took leave of the Prince of Wales ; they go to Paris. We dined at the Palace. There was a dinner party at Mr Layard's, the British minister, for the King and the Prince. This is the first time, I believe, that a King of Spain has dined out. There was a reception there after the dinner, to which we went ; I then walked home. Another very interesting but tiring day over ! Saturday, 2gth April. A cold night. It is so cold here in the winter that if the sentries about the Palace are not relieved at short intervals they are liable to be frozen at their posts. Called on Dr. Corral (not at home), and Dr. and Mrs. Jelly, who gave me a curious old porcelain Talavera bowl. Went with Probyn to the Armoury, near the Palace. There is a quantity of very interesting old armour, and some of the suits bear strange devices. We dined at the Palace, then went to the theatre and saw a burlesque on the bull-fights, and after- wards to a ball at the Duke of Baillen's. I came home early ; it was raining. Two letters from home to-day; I write daily. Sunday, ^oth April, Madrid. Annesley and I visited the Royal stables with Count Mirasol, who has been most kind to us all the time we have been here. There is a wonderful collection of Spanish and English horses and mules. After lunch, at 2 p.m., there was a final leave-taking, and we drove off in state to the railway station. The King and great dignitaries accompanied the Prince. The streets were lined with troops, and all the customary honours were paid. The station was decorated, and there was a great collection of spectators. We started immediately for Lisbon, stopped the train near La Mancha and had dinner in a saloon carriage. I noticed many windmills here. Cervantes thought of them, no doubt, when he wrote Don Quixote. Passed through Badajos, and at Elvas entered Portugal. We travelled all night, sleeping fairly well in the carriages. Russell, Lord Suffield, C. Beres- ford and I had a carriage to ourselves. Monday, ist May, Lisbon. We were met at the frontier by Portuguese authorities and Mr. Morier, C.B., the new minister, who succeeded Lord Lyttonj reached Lisbon at 3 p.m., where the Prince was received with all the customary honours. The King, Dom Luiz ; his father, Dom Fernando, and the Duke of Coimbra were at the station, with many high officials. The Royal carriages took us to the Palace of Adjuda, where we were presented to the King, and to Queen Maria Pia. We then all adjourned to the Palace of Belem, which His Majesty has placed at the Prince's disposal, and where we are all very comfortably accommodated. Two officers, General Mas- carenhas and Captain De Mello, are in attendance on the Prince. We dined here at 8 p.m. ; the Prince, Lord Suffield and Ellis dined at Adjuda with the King and Queen. The view of the harbour and the Tagus, as we drove to Belem, was very fine. There are many men-of- war here, Admiral B. Seymour commanding the fleet. The view of the harbour from the windows and garden terraces of Belem is good. I have a comfortable English-looking room. Tuesday, 2nd May, Belem. After breakfast Fitz George and I went out in one of the Royal carriages to call on a number of officials, and other high functionaries, and saw a good deal of the city of Lisbon. I had a long talk with the King, who came to see the Prince, about many things, especially hospitals, in which he seemed to take much interest. He asked me to go and visit them, and told his secretary, who is also his physician, toaccompany me. Was presented also to Dom Fernando, the King's father, and had a long talk with him. They both speak English. The King wears a naval uniform, and was formerly in our navy. I also had a long talk with Dom Augusto, the Duke of Coimbra the King's brother, who commands the Portuguese cavalry. The Prince dined with us at Belem, and after dinner we went to a state concert at the opera, and heard Madame Harris sing " Home, Sweet Home," beautifully. All the Royal family, the ministers and great officers of state ; the Generals and high civil officers were there. I never saw such a galaxy of stars and cordons anywhere. I noticed one old gentleman who had eight stars, besides other decorations, on his breast. The boxes were full. Some of the ladies are very pretty, with black hair and eyes, and a few have a well-developed moustache. The day has been fine, but chilly. The Prince and some of the suite have colds. It was rather a tiring day. Wednesday, yd May, 1876, Belem. Fine day, but rather cold. Went with the Prince and part of the suite to the Irish Convent of Buen Successo. The nuns are Irish, and have a capital school ; we heard the girls play and sing " God Bless the Prince of Wales.'* Went over the Convent and saw the dormitories and other arrange- ments, which are very good. The nuns were delighted with the Prince's kind and gracious manner to them. We returned to Belem to lunch. 154 I then went with Dr. , the King's physician and private secretary, to see the great hospital of San Joseph and the medical school attached to it. We then visited the Naval Hospital, and were shown over it by a Portuguese naval medical officer. The hospitals were very clean, well arranged and good in everything. The Port wine used for the sick was excellent. I saw several specimens j the darkest was not deeper in colour than brown sherry. The Prince and some of the suite went on board the Serapis. There was a ball at the Palace to-night ; great crowd, gorgeous dresses and decorations. Thursday, tfh May, 1876. This morning we started in two parties, in carriages, for Cintra, 18 miles from Lisbon. The road is picturesque, and commands some fine views. We crossed the heights of Torres Vedras, Wellington's defences. Near Cintra we saw vestiges of the tramway that has come to grief. S., R., P., K., H., G. and I were one party ; the Prince, with the remainder of the suite, the other. We went to visit Mr. Cooke's (Viscount de Montserrat) lovely grounds and magnificent Moorish house, gorgeously decorated and sumptuously furnished. There is a magnificent view from a splendid garden full of rare trees, plants and flowers. We had lunch and walked about the beautiful grounds with Mr. and Mrs. Cooke, who were most kind and hospitable. We rode back on donkeys to our carriages, left Cintra, and drove back to Lisbon in time for a late dinner We had thunder, lightning and rain in returning near Torres Vedras. Dined at 8.30 p.m. The Prince and party when at Cintra, visited Penas, Dom Fernando's Palace, intending to see Montserrat afterwards, but there was not time, and as it was, we were late in getting back to Lisbon. After dinner the Prince went to see the illumination of the city and the ships in the harbour. The men-of-war were resplendent with rockets, blue lights, and every sort of pyrotechnic device. The King, Queen, all the Royal family and suite were there. We sat in some upper rooms of a house facing the harbour, where there was an excellent view. Annesley and I drove home together after the best of the fireworks were over. It was a wet and disagree- able night. I gave a copy of my Thanatophidia to the King ; Captain De Mello, who is taking care of us, took charge of the book for His Majesty, who seems to be much interested in scientific matters. Friday, $thMay, 1876, Lisbon. Fine day; cool and cloudy. I wrote and read in my room till n. Walked with Probyn, Macdonald and De Mello to see the Church of Santa Maria di Belem, a very interesting old church built in commemoration of the discovery of the Cape of Good Hope and India, by Vasco de Gama. It is a mixture of Gothic and Byzantine. The choir which is up in the gallery is raised on arches ; the cloisters of the old Convent attached to it, very beautiful. The Real Casa Pia is here. In it four hundred boys are educated, clothed and fed for nothing. All is in beautiful order, and the sanitary arrangements are excellent. It struck me that they should have made an Eton rather than a public charity school out of it, which does not need so gorgeous a building ; I told the King so, and said I thought it would make a good school for gentlemen. It was from a pier not far from this church that Vasco de Gama set out on his voyage of discovery. After lunch we attended the Prince to a review of the Portuguese troops ; some rode, others drove. From a palace in a great square, 155 where balconies and seats were erected, near which the Prince and His Majesty took post, we watched the troops march past, and very well they looked. The artillery (Krupp guns) drawn by magnificent mules. The Prince and some of the suite dined on board the Flag ship Minotaur, the others dined quietly at home. There was a pigeon- shooting match in which C. was the successful competitor. Saturday, 6th May, 1876, Lisbon. We all accompanied the Prince to the races : the course is near Belem, whence there is a lovely view of the harbour and the surrounding country. The races were pretty good. Dom Fernando told me a good deal about Cintra and Montserrat and how good and kind its excellent proprietors are. After returning from the races the Prince summoned all the suite, and on behalf of the King presented us with decorations. Lord S. got the Grand Cordon, and I, the Star of Conception. Probyn, the Tower and Sword. Others the Third or Fourth classes of the Con- ception ; Tower and Sword, the Christ, or Avis. There was a very grand state dinner at the Adjuda Palace, to which we all went wearing Portuguese Orders, of course. Our borrowed Stars of India had been given up on leaving Bombay. The banquet was very grand ; I sat between Probyn and the Austrian Minister. There were about 100 present, and it was a most stately affair a blaze of decorations and Grand Cordons. The music was painfully loud from a band in a gallery in the dining room. As I was sitting only six or eight from the King I heard the speaking very well. There were the usual toasts, and the Prince spoke, as he always does, with much grace and facility. Some of us returned to Belem after the dinner. The Prince and some of the suite went to the Spanish Embassy, where there was a reception. The day was fine and really quite cold. Sunday, jth May, 1876. At 9 am. I went with Dr. Lil- burne, R.N., in charge of the Naval Hospital here, to see Mrs. H., in consultation it was a serious case. Accompanied the Prince to the English Church ; it is well situated, and the grounds around it are very pretty. Thence we drove to the pier, and embarked for the Seraph the last return to the old ship which has been our home so long. The Prince embarked under salutes, and all the customary honours. King Luiz and Dom Fernando, the Queen, the two young Princes and the Duke of Coimbra came on board to say gaod-bye. There were also many of the ladies and gentlemen of the ourt, and the high Civil and Military Officers. They went over the ship, were shown the elephants and tigers, and then, at about 4 p.m. all shook us kindly by the hand and said good-bye. General Mascarenhas and Capt. de Mello, who have been so good to us, also said farewell. The Prince presented each with a souvenir of his visit, as, indeed, he has done to all who have rendered any service. At lunch, on board the Serapis, I sat between the Marquis de F. (Chamberlain) and the Duke de Pombal. At 4 p.m. we weighed anchor and steamed down the Tagus, past Belem and other forts, through crowds of shipping mercantile and naval under salutes, cheers, music, ships decorated and yards manned out to sea, on our last voyage on the homeward route. There was a fresh breeze and a good deal of swell when we got to sea. The King's yacht kept near us for some time. We felt quite sorry to say good-bye. Here, as everywhere else, we have received the greatest kindness, each place we visit seems more anxious than the lastj 156 if possible, to do honour to the Prince, and to be hospitable and kind to us. Monday, 8th May, 1876, Serapis, at sea, off the Coast of Portugal. Beautiful morning some swell and a certain amount of motion. Some of my companions are qualmish. At noon we were only 680 miles from the Isle of Wight. The weather feels cold ; towards evening the breeze freshened and the ship pitched a good deal. At 6 p.m. we were off Cape Finisterre. Captain Glyn and the officers gave the Prince and suite a splendid entertainment the tables were beautifully decorated with flowers, flags and pictures. All the officers were present. There were some very good speeches made, and the Prince said many kind and gracious things of his companions. After dinner the tables were cleared away and dancing commenced. I spoke to the Prince to day about the slight offered to the other naval medical officers at Lisbon. When H.R.H. went on board the Flag-ship officers were presented, but not one medical officer. The Prince said he had noticed it and gave me permission to write to the medical officers and tell them it was not done with his consent I shall do so through Dr. Lilburne. Tuesday, qth May, 1876, Serapis, at sea. Fine day, rather rough. We are well out of the Bay of Biscay now. Things are being got up ready for landing preparations for breaking up our floating home. Wednesday, nth May, 1876, Serapis, in the Channel. This morning, after breakfast, the Prince summoned each of the suite into his cabin, and took leave, saying many kind and gracious things ; he presented each with some valuable souvenir of the expedition. To me he gave a beautiful gold bracelet set in diamonds, with his portrait, for my wife ; a book (Rousselet's Rajahs of India), a large silver medal, a set of silver things for pic-nics, tumblers, spoons, forks, c. H.R.H. was most kind in the way in which he referred to such services as I had been able to render during the trip. I spoke about the medical officers of the Serapis, and the Prince replied most kindly, saying he would not forget their claims. Arrangements for landing are in progress. We have a head wind and a good deal of motion, but the ship goes well. Thursday, nth May, 1876, in the Solent. Arrived off Yarmouth, Isle of Wight, at n a.m. The Princess and the Royal children came off in the Enchantress, to meet us. The Prince went off to her and soon returned, bringing them all on board the Serapis. They were much interested in the elephants, tigers, &c. I took the young Princes about, showed them the different animals ; the Princess was most kind and said she was glad to see me again. We entered Ports- mouth Harbour, the ships and forts saluting, yards manned and flags flying, and had lunch on board for the last time, at 3 p.m. The Duke of Edinburgh, the Duke of Cambridge, Prince Leiningen and many of the Prince's friends were there. At 4.30 p.m. we landed at the Dock- yard, where a crowd had assembled. An address from the Mayor was read, and then we got off in carriages as best we could to the train, and arrived at Victoria Station at 5 p.m. Every station decorated, and there was great rejoicing as the Prince passed. At the station we separated : I drove home with my boys, who came to meet me. Found my wife and children well. So ends the Indian Expedition. We have all come back except Duckworth, and he will be at home soon. We have not lost a man, have had very few cases of serious sickness, and only three or four 157 accidents. My health is as good, if not better, than when I started. We left England on gth October, 1875, and have returned on nth May, 1876^ -an absence of just seven months. I at once despatched an official letter to Sir A. Armstrong, Director-General of the Medical Department, R.N., thanking him and the medical officers for their share in the work of the expedition. James arrived with some of my baggage in the course of the evening. Friday, 1 2th May, 1876, London. Paid some visits. Took my wife to the drawing-room, where she was presented by Lady Frere. There was a great crowd, but on this occasion we had the entree, as all the Prince's suite were presented to Her Majesty on their return by H.R.H. The Queen was very gracious, and said she was glad to see me again. I had congratulations from many old friends on having returned, and appear in the Gazette to-day as Hon. Physician to the Prince of Wales. It was very thoughtful of the Prince to do this so soon Saturday, i^th May, London, Called to see Sir W. Jenner,'Sir W. Gull and Sir J. Paget to give them any information they might desire about the expedition, and to thank Sir W. Jenner for his letters. I also called at the Indian Office and reported my return to Sir T. Pears. Sunday, i^th May, London. Went with Bessie and the children to St. Thomas' Church. Paid some visits. Dined with Lady Mayo, in Hill-street, and went at Mr. Morier's invitation to meet the Prince at the Cosmopolitan Club. Mr. Morier came home with us from Lisbon. Several of our Serafis' shipmates were at the club, which meets after midnight. Wednesday, \-jth May, 1876. I went down to Windsor by the Queen's command to dine and stay till the next day. Her Majesty was very gracious and kind, spoke about the expedition, and expressed herself pleased with the result. The Prince Christian, Duke and Duchess of A., Duchess of R., Lord and Lady O. and Lord D. ; Cols, de P. and A. E. were of the party. During the day I walked in the grounds of Frogmore, and wrote letters. On returning to town the next day, was glad to see several promotions of officers of the Serapis and Osborne in the Gazette. Resumed my old work and usual routine of daily life. Friday, igth May. Went with my wife to the banquet and ball given by the Lord Mayor to the Prince on his return from India. Monday, 22nd May, 1876. Attended the Prince of Wales' levee. The Dukes of Edinburgh, Connaught and Cambridge were there, and shook hands with me as I passed. Wednesday, 2^th May. Went to a dinner given to me by my Indian brother medical officers, at St. James' Hall about 80 present; Dr. Forsyth, C.B., presided. They were very kind and made several speeches, to which I replied as best I could. Before separating, they presented me with a parchment on which all their names were in- scribed. They were good enough to say that they thought I had conducted my part of the expedition satisfactorily. Saturday, 2"jth May. Dined at Lord Salisbury's in honour of the Queen's birthday. Monday, 2<)th May. The first really genial day since I came back it is like summer. Went to meet the Prince and the Princess to see the Indian presents at Kensington. My wife was presented to the Princess. 158 Tuesday, 2oth June. We dined at Maryborough House. The Duke of Cdnnaught was there. Wednesday, 2\st June. Dined with the Ironmongers' Company in the city. Thursday, 22nd June. Dined at Stafford House; the Prince of Wales and Sir Salar Jung were there. Friday, ^th June. Went, by desire of the Prince, to the col- lection of Indian presents at the Kensington Museum. The Empress Eugenie and the Prince Imperial were there. The Prince presented me to the Empress. Thursday, 6th July. Went with my wife to a garden party at Sion, the Duke of Northumberland's. Lovely day. Dined with Sir Salar Jung; the Prince of Wales was there. Friday, jth July. Went again to see the Indian presents at Kensington. The Queen, Princess Beatrice and the Duchess of Teck came to see them. Saturday, 8th July. Went with Probyn and the two native officers to visit the Duke of Sutherland, at Trentham. Mr, J. Bright was there. Returned the next evening. Monday, loth July. Dinner to Lord Napier of Magdala, at Willis' Rooms ; the Prince of Wales and the Duke of Cambridge were present. Tuesday, \\th July. We went to a garden party at Chiswick. Tuesday, iSth July. A garden party at Chiswick; the King and Queen of Greece were there. Friday, 28th July. We went to Richmond to a dinner party, given at the Star and Garter by Sir Salar Jung. Met many old friends there. Tuesday, ist August, 1876. I presided at an Edinburgh University Club dinner. With this my diary, as regards the Indian expedition, closes. THE DUKE OF EDINBURGH IN INDIA, 1869-70. CAPTAIN H.R.H. THE DUKK OF EDINBURGH, K.G., R.N., &c., &c., &c. guile : MAJOR-GENERAL SIR NEVILLE CHAMBERLAIN, K.C.B., K.C.S.I, LIEUT. LORD C. BERESFORD. E.N. COL. SIR SEYMOUR BLANE, BART. COL. PROBYN, C.B., v.c. COL. ERASER, C.B., v.c. HON. E. YORKE, Equerry. LIEUT. A. HAIG, R.E., Equerry. DR. FAYRER, c.s.i., B.M. SERVICE. DR. WATSON, STAFF SURGEON R.N., H.M.S. "GALATEA." CAPT. J. CLERK. M. CHEVALIER, Artist. COL. REILLY, R.A., C.B. CAPT. BRADFORD, Central Indian Horse. His Royal Highness the Duke of Edinburgh visited Calcutta in December, 1869, and January, 1870. The Viceroy, Lord Mayo, deeming it important that an Indian medical officer, acquainted with the country, its language, climate and diseases, should accompany His Royal Highness during his travels and tiger hunting in India, deputed me to perform this duty, and the following are some notes made during the expedition. They are very brief and imperfect, but will preserve some account of the places visited, and of the most interesting incidents of the journey. THE DUKE OP EDINBURGH IN INDIA, THE Duke left Calcutta early on the morning of the 7th January, 1870; on arriving at Burdwan at 10.15 a.m., was received by the Rajah and the Civil Officers of the Station, and after breakfast and a rest of two hours, went on to Nulhattee, and thence, by special train, to Azimgunge, where Mr. Buckle, the Governor-General's Agent, and Mr. Hankey, the Magistrate, were in attendance. After crossing the Bhagirutty, drove in to camp at Dewan Serai, n miles from Azimgunge and 26 from Moorshedabad, and arrived in time for dinner. The camp was pitched near the road-side, in an open space surrounded by trees. It consisted of a street of double-poled tents with a large dinner tent and shahmianah, in front of which, and for the first time in India, the Royal Standard floated over the camp of a shikar party. The baggage did not arrive till midnight, so all had to rough it for a few hours, but having slept soundly after it came, we were ready in the morning to take the field under the guidance of Major Mylne and some othei members of the Tent Club, who were encamped close by. After breakfast on Saturday, the party set out with a line of 28 elephants ; some were mounted and carried spears, others preferred to see the sport from elephants. The Duke rode an Arab that promised well, although untried, to take his rider up to a pig. The horses generally were new, and like their riders, unused to pig-sticking, but being well-bred Arabs gave reasonable promise of sport. The beat commenced almost immediately after leaving camp, and lay over level ground, covered here and there with patches of urhur (dhal), gram, linseed, or with more extensive reaches of grass so long that it reached to the horses' girths. An occasional village with sur- rounding jungle of mango, tamarind, bhair, and other trees, varied the scene. There were nineteen riders, besides those on the elephants, and they were divided into parties, with instructions to confine their attention to the particular pigs that the chances of the day might send in their direction. After beating in line for about an hour-and- a-half during which time there was more than ono false alarm a boar was turned out of the long grass, and made off at his best speed in the direction of the nearest village, which lay just on the outskirts of 162 the plain, wnere he no doubt expected to find safety, and a shelter he was doomed not to reach. He was first seen from the elephants, for from those on horseback he was concealed by the long grass, and the signal being given, he was soon followed by several spears. He had almost attained the shelter of the trees when he received the first spear from Mr. A. Hills, and so well was it directed that he rolled com- pletely over. He was up again at once, and shaking out the spear, made a charge at the nearest horse, when he was transfixed through and through by Colonel Probyn's long Bombay spear, three feet of which appeared on his other side. A few more well-directed thrusts finished his career. Soon after tiffin in a mango tope, the line was again in motion, and before evening, after more than one run in the long grass, two more good boars fell ; one to the spear of Major Trevor and the other to that of the Duke. The ground, though level, was somewhat treacherous, as the long grass concealed certain blind ditches, in which more than one rider came to grief. Several falls occurred the Duke had two ; but no one was hurt, and the hunt went merrily on, till the evening, when, at the death of the last pig, a sad accident occured, which threw a cloud over all. A gallant little Arab of Lord M. Beresford's got one of his hind feet into a hole, and snapped the leg just above the pastern joint. Even after this he tried to go, and when pulled up the fractured bones protruded through an extensive wound ; the foot looked as though attached only by a portion of the skin. As to save him was impossible, he was shot through the head to spare him further suffering, and he fell dead without a struggle, on the ground where he had behaved so well. The party, including several of the Tent Club, retured to dinner at 7 p.m., and afterwards sat by a blazing wood fire in front of the camp, talking over the events of the day. Before starting Mr. Buckle had introduced the Nawab Nazim's two sons and son-in-law. A third son of the Nawab had accompanied the party throughout the day, and rode well to the front. Sunday, the Qth, was spent in camp. The camp moves on Tuesday. Monday, January loth, 1870, Camp, Dewan Serai. Breakfast this morning in the Nizamut Camp, where the Duke was received by two sons and a son-in-law of the Nawab Nizam, Mr. Buckle, the G. G.'s Agent, and other Civil Officers of Berhampore, with several members of the Tent Club. After breakfast, the horses and elephants being ready, the party, formed as on Saturday, with one or two exceptions, took the field. The beat was over similar ground to that of Saturday, but in the opposite direction. For the first two hours only a few hares or an occasional sow were seen ; these (not being the game sought for) were allowed to pass. At length a moderate-sized boar was started near a village ; he gave a good run for a short distance, and received the first spear from Probyn. Turning sharply, he charged, broke through the line of elephants, and finally escaped though wounded into some dense bamboo jungle and deep ravines near the village. As he could not be dislodged the line reformed, and proceeded in quest of other game. During the afternoon two boars were killed. The first spears fell to the Duke and to Mr. A. Hills, several of the party also being in at the death of each boar ; both gave good sport before they fell. A rather long ride brought the party home to camp at 6 p.m. We move to Turtipore at 6 p.m. to-morrow, nth January , 1870. Moved to-day to Turtipore, in the Malda District. The Duke and Sir N. Chamberlain drove, the other members of the suite rode as far as Kumera ke Serai, where breakfast had been prepared. After a short delay we crossed the Ganges in boats, and rode across thechur (sand bank) to Turtipore, where the camp, now reduced in size, was pitched. Mr. Lowis, the Magistrate, Messrs. Campbell, Gumming and Savi were there. In the afternoon the Duke, accompanied by some of the suite, went out in howdahs a short distance from camp. A few snipe were shot. To-morrow tigers may be expected. The weather is beautiful, rather hot in the middle of the day, but a fresh northerly breeze made the march exceedingly agreeable. All are in excellent health. Up to the present time there has been no sickness. The sanitary arrangements and management of the camp, and the beautiful weather, are such as to obviate any tendency to disease, and there is every reason to hope that the campaign in Malda may be fortunate. The next few days, we trust, may bring some good sport. January 12th. Started after breakfast, and rode about eight miles j found 30 elephants waiting at the village of Dobri. Here they proceeded to beat the extensive nul and putial jungle of Serajpore. After beating for some time, a young tigress was turned out. She made a brave charge down the line, but could not make it good, nor could she break the line, and soon fell before the fire from the numerous howdahs as she tried to run the gauntlet. A shell from the Duke's rifle produced a marked effect. She was scarcely padded before a second tiger was started, near where the first was killed. The line was taken back and beat up the ground again, and the second was soon killed ; it proved to be a tigress, rather larger than the first. The ryots of the neighbouring station were much pleased, for they had lost many cattle lately, and the death of the tigresses promised 'them relief. A short beat was next made through a neighbouring patch or long grass jungle, but without success. After tiffin, most of the party went along the picturesque road which leads to the ancient city of Gour ; and after inspecting the interesting ruins of Sona Musjid, branched off across the swamp towards the camp, pitched at Sooker- barri. It was nearly half-past eight before the tents were reached, but the sport had amply compensated for a long and fatiguing day. January i^th. Rode about three miles to the Mahanuddee. The elephants and howdahs had been sent on before. At about 1 1 the beat commenced with a line of about 45 elephants, over the extensive grassy undulating plains that abound in these parts of Malda, a district characterised by picturesque groups of magnificent trees, chiefly of the Indian fig tribe. The line beat steadily on ; very little fame was seen, excepting a few black partridges, and an occasional og deer or hare ; until suddenly the signal went along the line that a tiger was afoot, and shortly after he was seen bounding along with his tail in the air, making for a wet nullah and long grass, several hundred yards ahead. He rose close under the Duke's elephant, which was in the centre of the line ; a few shots were fired, but apparently without effect. The Duke missed the chance by having his shot gun in his hand at the time ; and before he could change it, the tiger was too far away. Making for the nullah, which was in one part clear of jungle, he was seen from two howdahs on the extreme left, to cross the nullah and enter the grass, but was too far off to be fired at, as in the boundless 164 plain of grass, if missed, there was every chance of losing him. As he appeared to be secure in the shelter of the grass, they (P. and F.) waited for the line to come up. Meanwhile he had sneaked off, and though the nullah and grass were carefully beat for some time, he was not seen again. This proved how true it is that the cold season, when the plains are covered with long grass, is not the season for tiger shooting. Had it been two months later, and the grass burned, he must have been killed. It is satisfactory to know that he remains for any sportsman who may visit Malda in March or April. After tiffin, under a tree scored with the marks of a tiger's claws (tigers are in the habit of sharpening or polishing their claws against the trunk of some solitary tree, leaving long, deep scratches on the bark), the line beat in the direction of the camp at Alumpore, which was reached at 7 p.m. ; recrossed the Mahanuddee, and found the tents pitched on the high sandy bank of the stream. The bag to-day con- sisted of a deer, a pig, and several brace of black partridges. Camp moves again to-morrow, and it is hoped that buffalo, if not tiger, may be found. It is interesting to see the crowds of people who turn out at every village, or group of huts, when the Duke passes. All seem to know of his arrival, and are anxious to see the Queen's son and to show their loyalty. January i^th. Camp moved to Bahadoor-Gunge, about a mile from the banks of the Mahanuddee, and ten or twelve miles from Alumpore, this morning. The elephants had previously swum the river, the party crossed and got into howdahs about 1 1 a.m. The beat lay through heavy nul and puttial grass over the plain of Puftabarri. Some black partridges, chickore, hog deer and three buffaloes were killed. Just when the buffaloes were shot, some excitement was caused by bees attacking the sportsmen ; they had been disturbed in beating out the jungle. Blankets were soon out, but the alarm was of short duration, and the enemy disappeared. Tracks of tigers and kills were found but no tigers. After tiffin, the line beat on through the dry grass in the direction of the river, and crossed at lo-Muchooa to Bahadoorgunge. Here the sportsmen crossed in boats ; the elephants had to swim. Arrived in time for dinner about 7 p.m. January i$th. Camp moved about ten miles to Amirtie, on the banks of the Mahanuddee. Soon after leaving Bahadoor-gunge, or rather Huleempore, for such is the name of the encamping ground, beat over another extensive grassy plain in the direction of the picturesque belt of varied jungle in which the ruins of the ancient city of Gour are situated. Much game was seen deer, pigs, black partridges and hares were abundant. The bag contained 61 partridges, four deer (one being a fine stag hog deer, almost white), and some smaller game, such as snipe. A few pigs, it is to be feared, to the dis- gust of the pig-stickers, fell before the incessant fire which ran along the line of howdahs. At about 2 p.m., having crossed the swampy ditch from which the bund that surrounds the old city was dug, tiffin was spread out under a beautiful group of trees near a picturesque and wild-looking ghaut, down which the tigers, that abound in the ruins and jungle of Gour, come down nightly to drink, and to seek for food in the plains. After tiffin the Duke passed through the station of Malda, about three miles distant from Gour, and met with a most enthusiastic reception from the inhabitants, who all turned out to pay their respects, and attest their loyalty by fireworks, bands of music, &c. The party rode on to Amirtee, about 8 or 10 miles from Malda, on the banks of the Mahanuddee. Here the elephants are to be dismissed, as the sport in Malda is over. On the whole, it has been, considering the season, very fair, and there is every reason to believe that had it been six weeks later in the year more tigers would have been found. The next move is to the banks of the Ganges to cross at Rajmahal and meet the train for Benares. January \6th. Breakfast early. Heavy baggage and horses sent on at 3 a.m. to Muttrapore, about 13 miles from camp, and about three miles from the Ganges. The party rode to Mr. Cumming's house at Muttrapore in time for tiffin, and then across the low Indigo ground to a ferry on the Ganges, a few miles above Rajmahal, where the horses were crossed, two at a time, in boats with platforms covered with grass, and very little larger than Calcutta dinghies. In crossing, Probyn's Duffadar was unable to control one of his horses, which sprang into the river ; he immediately followed, and swam with his mare to the opposite bank. The baggage reached the station at Rajmahal only just in time for the special train which had been sent to convey the party to Teen Pahar, where the Viceroy was waiting. At Rajmahal the Duke was met by the Hon. Major Bourke, Mr. Palmer, and others. In a few minutes the station of Teen Pahar was reached, and the train proceeded immediately for Jumalpore. At 7 a.m, of the ijth, arrived at Mogul Serai, where, after break- fast and a change of dress, they entered Benares. Mr. Shakespeare, the Commissioner, General Travers, the chief civil and military officers, with the Maharajahs of Jeypore, Benares, Vizianagram and others were in attendance. Embarking in a barge composed of double boats, propelled by hand-worked paddle-wheels, proceeded some distance down the river to obtain a view of the city, and then landing at one of the ghauts, walked through the narrow streets, and inspected the bazaars, mosques, and temples, all of which were gaily decorated for the occasion. A procession of gaily caparisoned elephants was then formed, and attended by the civil and military officers and the staff, the Duke and Viceroy proceeded to the Commissioner's house, where they were entertained. The weather has been unusually warm for the season, and the rapidly-gathering clouds betoken approaching rain. The camp moves to Chukia to-morrow. January i8th. The weather has been cloudy and warm ; the heat was rather oppressive when the Duke and Viceroy, with their res- pective staffs, visited the streets, bazaars and temples of Benares this morning. Benares is at present crowded with Hindoo pilgrims, who have come to bathe in the holy river to-day, as there is to be a total eclipse of the moon. A levee at the Commissioner's, at 4 p.m., after which an address written in Sanscrit, from the inhabitants of Benares, was presented by a deputation consisting of the Maharajah of Benares, Rajah Sir Deo Narain Sing and others. Some specimens of the gold embroidered cloths of Benares were submitted for inspection. After dinner the Commissioner conducted the Duke to the river- side, and then on the river in a barge, to witness the illuminations of the ghauts and the bathing of the pilgrims, which took place during the eclipse, great crowds being assembled for the purpose at the various bathing ghauts. After this a grand nautch was held in a large tent pitched for the purpose, at which the Duke, the Viceroy, and their 166 suites, with the principal European and Native inhabitants of Benares, were present. The city and the suburban roads were brilliantly illuminated. At 3, this morning, a quantity of light baggage was despatched on elephants to the camp at Chukia, a hunting seat of the Maharajah of Benares, very picturesquely situated, about 25 miles from Benares, just where the low range of the commencement of the Vindhyan chain of hills crops up from the plain. This is a preserve of the Maharajah's for all sorts of game, such as tigers, bears and deer. The camp is to remain at Chukia for two or three days. The Duke, the Viceroy, with Sir N. Chamberlain and some other members of the suite, left Benares at 6 a.m., and on the way visited the Maharajah ot Vizianagram at his new palace. Passing through the mission compound, where " God Save the Queen " was played by some of the inmates of the mission house, they proceeded to Ramnughur ghaut, where a salute was fired, and they were met by the Maharajah, who accompanied them in a carriage to the camp, whence, having breakfasted, they set out tor the neighbouring jungle, where a " hankwa " commenced. The Viceroy and the Maharajah being in one " machan," the Duke and the Maharajah's son in another with Colonel Eraser. The rest of the party were placed in other " machans." Those who left Benares at noon, did not reach Chukia till late in the afternooon. After sundry misadventures from want of horses on the road, they found, on arrival, an admirably arranged camp prepared for their recep- tion. The shikar party returned soon after, and it appeared that only one tiger had been seen, and driven towards the machan in which the Duke with Colonel Fraser and the Maharajah's son were placed, and was knocked over by a shell from the Duke's rifle. Thus seriously wounded, the tiger managed to roll over into a ravine, and made off. He was followed on foot by the Duke and several of the party, who traced him for a considerable distance by the blood, which had been flowing freely from the wound, over the broken ground and through the low jungle and ravines ; but as it was getting late and dark they were obliged to relinquish the chase and return to camp. The tiger was evidently very seriously wounded, and will probably ere long be found dead. Scarcely any other game except black buck or spotted axis was seen. It is intended to have a hankwa for general shooting to-morrow. After dinner there was native music and a nautch, the chief characteristic of the latter being the monotonous chanting of " Taza be Taza," and other popular native airs. The weather has been cloudy and sultry all day, portending rain. January i8th. This morning some of the party went out before breakfast in search of the wounded tiger, but returned towards noon without having had any success. After breakfast the Duke and Viceroy inspected native schools in the village of Chuckia, and immediately afterwards proceeded on elephants to the jungle on the banks of the river Kurmnassa, where the " hankwa " is to take place. The scenery is exceedingly picturesque, and a great relief to the eyes of one who has long been accustomed to the monotony and dead level of the plains of Bengal. Low undulating hills, covered with jungle of the most varied kind, the ebony, tamarind, semel, bhair, mimosa, dak, neem and other trees, with open glades, deep ravines, and the clear water of the unholy stream (no Hindoo will touch it) flowing slowly over the bed of stratified rock, made a most wild and beautiful scene. At convenient places, seats surrounded by i6 7 green branches were placed, where the sportsmen took their posts, and waited until the game should be driven in their direction by a line of men who, from a distance, came through the jungle beating tom-toms, sounding horns, and shouting to disturb and dislodge whatever might be concealed in the depths of the forest. The bag consisted of one enormous boar, which fell to the Viceroy's rifle, two spotted deer one to Lord Mayo and the other to the Duke and a stag and hind sambhur, which were claimed by the rest of the party. It was dark before we reached camp, and the return to the tents through the narrow passes and ravines, lighted by torchmen who led the wav, was very picturesque. After dinner, acrobatic performances, a nautch, and the tricks of two highly-trained elephants concluded the day's amusements. The Viceroy and staff leave camp early to-morrow on their return to Cal- cutta. The Duke proceeds to Mogul Serai to join the special train for Agra. The weather has been cloudy, but cool ; most favourable for shikar. All are well, and much pleased with Chuckia. January 2ist. The Duke and some of the suite went out this morning, and were very successful, for they brought home two fine sambhur stags and two spotted deer, two of which fell to the Duke's rifle. The drive was in the direction of the bed of the Kurmnassa river, and it was a grand sight when the deer made their appearance on the brow of the river bank before they descended into the hollow where they were shot. At about 3 p.m. the Duke took leave of the Maharajah, and presented him with a very beautiful silver vase as a souvenir of the visit to Chuckia. The Maharajah and his son accom- panied the Duke about a mile on the road to Moghul Serai, where they arrived in time for dinner at 7 p.m. A special train at 8.30 p.m. conveyed the party to Agra, where they arrived at about noon. The Lieutenant-Governor met the Duke at Toondla, and accompanied him to Agra. Here he was received by the chief civil and military officers of Agra, the Nawab of Rampore and other native chiefs. A proces- sion having been formed, it proceeded to the camp pitched almost on the site of the Durbar Camp of 1866. On the way an address was presented in English and Hindustanee by the municipality ; royal salutes were fired, and the procession passing under several triumphal arches erected by Hindoos, Mahomedans and Europeans reached the camp in time for tiffin. The camp was admirably arranged, and included the tents of the Duke, the Lieutenant- Governor, and chief civil officers of the neighbouring districts. Crowds of people were assembled along the line of approach, all very much pleased with the spectacle. After tiffin, the Duke and some of his suite drove to visit Itimad-ood-Dowlah's tomb, and returned to a state dinner at 7 p.m. A ball at the Metcalfe Hall concluded the day. The weather is very bright, clear, and exceedingly cold. The ther- mometer down to the freezing point at night. The sun is powerful in the day, and the contrast of the mid-day and midnight temperature is great. All the party are well. January 22nd. Very cold this morning, but a beautiful, bright dry air. After breakfast the Duke, accompanied by Sir W. and Lady Muir, with other ladies and members of the suite, went to visit the fort and Moti Musjid. A Durbar was held, at which the Nawab of Ram- pore, the Rajah of Vizianagram and others were presented. After an early dinner the Lieutenant-Governor and Lady Muir accompanied the 168 Duke and suite in carriages through the city, which was brilliantly illuminated, to the Taj, where a magnificent display of fireworks, on the opposite bank of the Jumna, was witnessed from the upper terrace. The gardens were brilliantly illuminated with coloured lamps, and were full of people. In a shamianah erected for the purpose, a number of Native Chiefs, among whom were many who had done good service in the mutiny, were presented by the Lieutenant-Governor, some receiving special notice on account of distinguished services. Hurdeo Bux, an Oudh Talookdar, was particularly noticed, Probyn having pointed him out as the chief who saved his brother's and Mr. Edward's life. The Taj was brilliantly illuminated by torches and blue lights, both within and without, but though the effect was very grand, the Taj illuminated is a mistake. Like Melrose, it should be visited " by the pale moonlight," or, as some say, by the early light of the rising sun. The general effect of the illuminations and fireworks, and especially of the thousands of lights floating down the river, was very beautiful. The evidences of gratification at the Duke's visit were very marked. The scene was declared by many of the party to be the most beautiful they had ever seen. January 2yd. Sir Seymour Blane's tent took fire last night, and in a few minutes was burnt to ashes. Fortunately there was no wind, and the fire did not spread, or the consequences might have been serious to the camp generally. Sir Seymour lost a considerable amount of property, but fortunately the greater part was saved. The cause of the fire is unknown. In the dry atmosphere the con- flagration was very rapid, leaving little time to save anything. On Sunday the Duke and suite went to the Cantonment Church, and visited the Orphanage, Tomb of Akhbar, at Secundra; the tomb of Begum Miriam, the Emperor's Christian wife, is now part of the Orphanage, where large numbers of native Christian children are educated. There is a church, in which they were assembled, and sang "God Save the Queen" in Hindostanee, as the Duke entered. January 2^th. The weather is beautifully bright, dry and clear, a great contrast to the Calcutta climate; much ice is being made and stored. After breakfast the Duke and part of the suite returned the visit of the Nawab of Rampore, whose camp is not far distant, and then went to see the Taj and the Soldier's Institute; after this, a dinner at the 77th mess, and a ball at the Metcalfe Testimonial, given by the Lieutenant-Governor, concluded the day's programme. The visit to Agra has been a most agreeable one. The camp will be broken up to-morrow, as the Duke moves on to Bhurtpore, stopping to visit Futtehpore Sikri on the way. The health of the party is excellent, and beyond a few trivial cases of slight dis- order all are well. From Bhurtpore the Duke will proceed to Deig, and thence with a limited party to Ulwar. From Bhurtpore on to Muttra more shikar is expected. January 26th, Deig. Left Agra yesterday, the 25th, and drove to Bhurtpore, stopping at Futtehpore Sikri on the way, and found tiffin prepared in Beerbul's house. After inspecting the ruins of Akbar's capital, the tomb of Shekh Seelim Chisti, the Dewan Khas, and Am, and other places of interest, we proceeded in carriages towards Bhurtpore, On the frontier of that state, the Duke was met by the Maharajah of Bhurtpore, Captain Blair, Dr. Harvey and Dr. ,69 De Fabeck, who were in waiting with a large retinue of followers, cavalry, elephants and camels. After a short delay we proceeded a few miles on to the borders of a tract of low jungle, and there divided into two or three parties in quest of game. But too little time had been devoted to Futtehpore Sikri, a place where one might spend a week with much profit, yet the day was so far spent on arriving at the shooting ground, that it was almost too late to expect any sport. The jungle, which consists chiefly of low thorny acacias, corunda, and other bushes, with ^ open glades and spaces, was beaten, and a few antelope and wild pigs, with numerous herds of nilghai and peacock, were seen ; the two latter are held in so much veneration by the Hindoos that they are generally spared, and are so tame as to be easily approached. The nilghai is not a member of the bovine tribe, being a true antelope (Boselaphus pictus), but as its external configuration is somewhat like that of a cow. and as the Hindoos chose to regard it as one, it is considered by some of them too sacred to be destroyed. After beating through the jungle for about an hour until nearly dark, with little sport, we mounted, and reached the station of Bhurtpore about half-past six p.m., a Royal salute being fired where, some in tents, others in Captain Blair's or Dr. Harvey's house, we passed the night ; the distance travelled was about 32 miles. After an early breakfast we started for Deig, passing through the picturesque stone-built streets of Bhurtpore. After travelling a few miles along the road in carriages, we alighted, and went in quest of antelope or small game. The party was here again divided, and some, after walking a short distance without much success, mounted, and rode off to the picturesque old-walled town of Kombher, about half-way to Deig. Here, in a stone palace, on the borders of a large tank built by Rajah Bulwunt Sing, as a resting, or perhaps dwelling-place in the hot weather, breakfast was prepared. Here too the Maharajah has a stud where he breeds horses. After visiting it, some of the party drove on into Deig, arriving about 2.30 p.m. Nothing can exceed the picturesque beauty of the stone buildings of this part of India. The carving is elaborate, and the workmanship most substantial and solid. The low chambers, sepa- rated by arches of Saracenic architecture, all most elaborately cut in red sand or limestone, are not only admirably adapted for coolness in the hot weather, but are most grateful to the eye accustomed to the rectangular formality of brick and mortar. The Duke with part of the suite arrived at Deig about 5 p.m., under the usual salute, and just as the illumination of the Gardens of the Palace was commencing. It would be difficult to do justice to the beauties of this lovely place. The stone and marble palaces, with their richly-carved marble screens and arches, the gardens laid out with Oriental formality, but enlivened by hundreds of fountains, the tanks with their ghauts all most tastefully illuminated, made a scene like fairy-land, which is as difficult to describe, as impossible to forget. The buildings of red sand-stone, are richly carved. The apart- ments and alcoves within are separated from each other by arches, designed and cut in the Saracenic, mingled with the Hindoo style, and the apertures in the walls and windows are closed by most elaborately carved screens, which, though over 100 years old, retain a freshness and clearness of design as if they had just been completed. The arrangements made here for the reception of the Duke evince 176 the greatest care and taste. The bag to-day has not been very large, but a few antelope have been brought in, the Duke had shot a black buck. January 2jth. The gardens of the Palace at Deig were brilliantly illuminated yesterday evening, and the greatest taste was displayed in the arrangement of the various devices. The gardens are studded with fountains, which played all the evening, and added greatly to the beauty of the scene. Several ladies, and officers of the nth Hussars arrived from Muttra and joined the party at dinner. The Palaces of Deig consist of a series of stone buildings, placed in a quadrangle, and were built by Soorj Mull. These are known as the Gopal, the Nund, the Kishen and the Muchi Bhowans. In the Nund Bhowan, which was beautifully decorated with chandeliers, mirrors, fountains and rich carpets and screens, a nautch was held after dinner at which the Duke and most of the guests were present. A variety of gold embroidered clothing, jewellery, and elaborately cut ivory and sandal wood, chowries and other works of Brmrtpore were offered as nuzzurs. There was also a grand display of fireworks, during which a stable was accidentally set on fire and a quantity of fodder and harness destroyed, though, happily, no other injury was done. The weather is milder than at Agra, though beautifully clear and bracing. This morning the Duke and part of the suite set out for Manato, their first march (24 miles) on the way to Ulwar. A Royal salute was fired as the Duke left the town, escorted by the Maharajah, Captain Blair, and a miscellaneous gathering of irregular cavalry, camelmen and elephants, with crowds of people, the effect being to cause much dust and considerable confusion. A short distance from the town they dismounted, and ascending a high earthen mound over which a shamianah was spread, witnessed an elephant fight on the plain below. The mode of fighting these elephants is somewhat different from that practised in Lucknow in former years. There, two elephants, with their heads painted red, and devoid of all clothing, with a net-work of rope on the back, met and fought it out until the weaker gave way. Each had his mahout on his neck, and was attended by a crowd of horse and spearmen, and men carrying fireworks. Some of the men ran before the elephants, and excited them by dragging red cloths along the ground. Any attempt on the part of the elephants to injure the people was resented by the spear and rocket men, who had no difficulty in turning the elephant, which fears nothing more than fireworks. Here, the elephants were painted on the forehead, and wore their jools (cloth coverings). They were also attended by men carrying spears and anars, (a sort of firework.) But instead of meeting in the open plain, they met with a strong mud wall, about five or six feet high, between them, and the fight consisted merely of pushing with their heads, intertwining their trunks, and interlocking their tusks. Neither appeared to be in a combative mood, and without urging, it seemed as though they would hardly have fought at all. The scene was very picturesque, from the surrounding crowds of men, horses, camels and elephants. The mound commands a fine view of the city and fort, and it is said that when another neighbouring mound of about the same height, is in the possession of the enemy, Deig is taken. It was here that General Fraser was mortally wounded. After the elephant fight a large party proceeded to beat the neighbouring low jungle in quest of game, many being mounted and prepared to spear the pigs; others on elephants, had guns. The bag to-day consisted of a pig (speared), two bucks, and a quantity of partridges and quail. The Duke, with the Maharajah and the party who go to Ulwar, reached camp at Manato at about 6 p.m., when a royal salute was fired. January 2%th. The camp was aroused this morning by the drums and bugles of the Maharajah's troops that are escorting the Duke through the state of Bhurtpore. The camp is large, and the road is a continuous line of cavalry, infantry, camel and footmen, with crowds of people in every village. The Duke left camp after breakfast, accompanied by the Maha- rajah, and travelled on towards Ulwar. At the boundary of this state he was met by the Maharajah of Ulwar, and after a short rest proceeded on towards the next camp at Salpore, near the foot of a low range of hills on which Ulwar is situated, shooting and coursing on the way. A small bag of grey partridges, quail and hares the latter killed by the greyhounds was obtained. The Duke, with General Sir N. Chamberlain and Captain Blair, had gone in another direction in quest of antelope. Two of the carriages broke down owing to the bad roads, which were so heavy with sand as to require camels, and the party did not reach Salpore till after dark. The Duke and Sir Neville Chamberlain had arrived before the rest, and had shot a buck and some small game. The weather continues to be beautifully fine and clear, though not quite so cold as at Agra. The camp is now very large, owing to the presence of the two Maharajahs of Ulwar and Bhurtpore, with their array of followers. We move again to-morrow to Ulwar, and it is expected that tigers may be met with during the day. Saturday, January 2Qth. The Duke and his suite, attended by Captain Blair and the Maharajah of Ulwar, left camp at Salpore after breakfast this morning, and rode about ten miles to the foot of the low range of hills. On the way some antelopes were seen, and just before getting into the howdahs the Duke and Sir N. Chamberlain stalked a herd, and got a long shot. The beat lay through a valley situated between two barren, arid-looking hills, of about 800 to 1,000 feet high, and through which the water descends, interspersed with beds of torrents now dry; the soil appears sufficiently good to permit of the growth of a tolerably dense jungle, chiefly of dak (Butea frondosa) Acacias or Mimosas and Bhair, whose thorny spines are often an impediment even to elephants. No game except a nilghai shot by the Duke, was found, but the beaters on the hill-side said they saw a tiger. At a very wild and picturesque-looking spot where the Mahara- jah has built a shooting-box, a sort of little fort with loopholes whence he may shoot the animal?; that come down to drink at the pool, tiffin was prepared. Whilst eating it, the Maharajah came to say that a leopard had just been seen on the hill-side stalking a cow. Sir N. Chamberlain went up the hill and got a glimpse of it, but not sufficient to enable him to shoot it, as it rapidly disappeared over the mountain-side. Mounting the horses which had been led on with the elephants, we rode on to the encamping ground at Silisere, a village at the foot of an amphitheatre of hills. These are dry and arid-looking rocks, 172 yielding marble, lime-stone, and a slaty-looking micaceous rock, as well as iron and copper, it is said. At this season they are quite brown, as the low scrubby jungle on each side is, for the most part, dry and leafless. The water, which drains from the ravines and hills into the valley below, is here collected into a lake about a mile long, by an artificial bund built by the late Maharajah, and from it stone aqueducts lead for miles over the country diffusing fertility over the otherwise sterile soil. On a promontory overhanging the lake the Maharajah has built a most charming hous*i, six storeys high, with a castellated appearance rising directly over the lake. Here there is generally a delicious breeze, and during the hot winds it must be comparatively cool, as the dry and heated air is tempered in passing over the lake. Here in the hot season there is good sport, for tigers, leopards, sambhur and deer come down to drink. The lake is stored with fish, and large alligators abound, one of which not long ago seized a horse while drinking, dragged down and destroyed it before it could be rescued. It is warm under the shelter of these enormous rocks, which radiate at night the heat they have absorbed during the day. %oth. It was intended to halt to-day, and the Duke and some of the suite walked out to see the lake and aqueducts. A large alligator was wounded, but as the water was deep it made its escape, although a man followed and drove his spear into it. News came from the Maharajah about 2 p.m. that a tiger had been found, and that it was being watched and surrounded to prevent its escape. The elephants were immediately sent on to a piece of ground between two hills ; the tiger was said to be in a ravine on the side of a hill, about 600 to 860 feet high. As it was impossible to get at it on the elephants we determined to attack him on foot, and accordingly the Duke with Sir N. Chamberlain, Probyn, Blair, Blane and Haig climbed the hill on one side of the ravine, which was covered with thorny shrubs and broken masses of stone, whilst Beresford and I took the other side. The shikarries and beaters with several couples of dogs, something between a greyhound and a mastiff, were on both sides. After a long and fatiguing climb up the hill, each took his post, and the beat commenced. A shot from the Duke set the tiger in motion, and as he broke cover he ran the gauntlet of several guns. Crossing the ravine he was turned, and severely wounded. He then went down the ravine; we followed and gradually closed in on him. Not being seen for a little time it was supposed he was dead, but not so ! He was soon in motion again, and after charging, went roaring down the ravine. He again became quiet for a moment, then rushed out and charged Sir N. Chamberlain, whose rifle at this critical moment missed fire ! The dogs had fortunately been loosed, and, rushing in, turned him badly injured, with a broken fore-leg among other wounds back into the ravine, all of them tugging vigorously at him. He knocked over several, but did not kill any. We closed in, and a few more shots finished him. He was a fine male tiger. An elephant was left to bring him into camp. After riding about a mile over broken ground, evidently a mountain torrent in the rains, we got into carriages and drove to the Maharajah's garden- house at Ulwar. The approach to the town, the fort, the gardens and the camp was beautifully illuminated. A royal salute was fired by the Maharajah's troops, who lined the approach to the camp several most gorgeously caparisoned elephants were in attendance. 173 The day was fine, though not cold, and we were rather tired wkh the exertions of the afternoon's adventure. January ^ist, 1870, Ulwar. This morning after breakfast the Duke inspected some of the Maharajah's stud, consisting chiefly of Kattyawar horses : they are fine animals, trained in the peculiar shuffling amble, so much liked by the natives. Several had been taught a variety of paces, such as springing forward when walking on their hind legs. Fighting quails, partridges, bulbuls and black bucks were also exhibited. About noon the Duke, attended by the Maharajah, drove towards the hunting-ground, which was very like that of yesterday. After driving a few miles we mounted horses and rode on over the broken, stony ground, leading to a valley between two ranges of hills, where the beat commenced, the hill-sides resound- ing with the noise of the beaters and their tom-toms. The Duke had to climb up a very steep and rocky incline of several hundred feet, but he was fortunate enough to bag two sambhur. One was killed on the spot, the other, badly wounded, made down the hill and into the valley, where it was pulled down by the dogs. After tiffin, we moved up one, and on arriving at the foot of another valley, another hill as steep as the last was climbed, the sportsmen being placed at different elevations. The drive then commenced, and from the height of the mountain-side the effect produced by the echoes of the rifle shots and the shouting and tom-toming of the beaters was very fine. Here again the Duke was successful, for he got two fine sambhur. Descending the hill, we rode back to Ulwar. The approach to the city, the forts on the hill, the gardens and avenues of the " Moti Doongri," the Maharajah's Garden Palace, were again brilliantly illuminated. Numerous arches and covered ways decorated with paintings, and glittering tinsel, from the summit of which flowers were thrown as the Duke passed, made the place look exceedingly beautiful. After dinner, accompanied by the Maharajah, we drove to the town of Ulwar, which is a short distance from the camp. The roads were brilliantly illuminated with lamps made of coloured paper cut into the shape of lotus flowers ; and numerous displays of fireworks. The town, with its picturesque stone-built streets and gateways, looked well. Crowds of people were there to welcome the Duke, whilst numbers of armed men of every sort gave a most varied effect to the scene. There was an elephant fight in which one of the elephants had it all his own way he was a fierce brute, and broke a heavy iron chain in his rage and fear when the fire- works commenced, and could only be kept in his enclosure by placing sharp spears with their points almost touching him, and by blinding him with a heavy cloth thrown by his mahout over his eyes. Next came a sambhur fight, and then wrestling by pulwans. The excite- ment of the wrestlers, as well as of the motley crowd, the glaring of the blue lights and the shouting of the people made a scene of great excite- ment. The Duke was much pleased with it all. In the palace, which was brilliantly illuminated and decorated, there was a perform- ance by Mr. Vanek, the prestidigitateur, and an Italian. A Durbar was then held, at which the Maharajah's Sirdars were presented. February ist. Left Ulwar, accompanied by the Maharajah, and reached camp at Baroda, where the Maharajah met the Duke, on entering Ulwar, the distance being about 20 miles. On the way we got a very fine bag of black partridges and quail ; the Duke, who went in a different direction with one or two others, also had a good 174 bag of partridges and small game. The weather has been cloudy and much milder to-day. February 2nd. The Duke took leave of the Maharajah this morning on the confines of the Ulwar territory, expressed his satisfaction with the reception he had received, and presented him with a rifle as a souvenir of the visit. After a long drive over a sandy road, we beat one of the patches of jungle near Deig, and bagged a fair amount of small game, arriving at the Deig Palace Justin time for dinner. We move on to Muttra to-morrow. February tfh, 1870, Muttra. Left Deig yesterday morning ac- companied by the Maharajah of Bhurtpore. On the way we halted to visit the tombs of the Bhurtpore Rajahs ; they are magnificently carved stone buildings, raised on the spot where the deceased Rajahs were burned, near the native city of Goverdhun. Here we were met by Colonel Fraser and several officers of the nth Hussars, with Lord Lascelles, the Hon. Captain Wood and Colonel Reilly, C.B. After tiffin, in a tent in a tope of trees, we mounted the horses which had been sent on and went in search of pigs and nilgye. After a long beat over a very promising country, and several runs after the blue bulls, we rejoined the carriages at the village of Chyte, and drove into Muttra, a distance of about seven miles. Near the city the Duke was met by an escort of the i ith Hussars, who accompanied him to the cantonment, where the whole party was most hospitably entertained by Colonel Fraser and the officers of the regiment. The ancient city of Muttra was brilliantly illuminated and decorated in honour of the Duke, who, in passing through the city expressed his satisfaction to Seth Luchmy Chund, who has so largely contributed to the preparations made for the reception. The Duke and some of the party went out shooting and hog- hunting; others went to visit the Holy city of Bindrabun, and the ancient temple of the Rajahs of Jeypore, which was partially destroyed by Aurungzebe. The modern temples of Shah Beharry Lai, of Lucknow, and of the Seth of Muttra, though exceedingly costly and magnificent, cannot be compared with that built more than two hundred years ago, and of which part only now remains. Dinner at the mess of the nth Hussars. The Duke killed two black bucks (antilope bezoartica) and two ravine deer (gazella Bennetii), besides small game. February $th. The Duke took leave of the Maharajah of Bhurt- pore, and of his Sirdars, presenting the Maharajah with a valuable watch and dagger. After breakfast, escorted by a detachment of the nth Hussars, the Duke left for the Hattras road station, having much enjoyed the visit to Muttra, and the great hospitality and kind- ness of the nth. The drive of 32 miles along a dusty but excellent road was rather warm, notwithstanding the shade of an almost con- tinuous avenue of trees. The view of Muttra from the Jumna is very picturesque, and gives one the impression of a city of great size and im- portance. A special train at Hattras road station was in waiting to take the Duke to Delhi. Allyghur was reached at about 1.20, and after tiffin the train proceeded to Ghazeeabad, where Colonel McNeile, Commissioner of Delhi, was waiting. After a short rest, to enable the party to prepare for the entrance into Delhi, the train moved on and entered the city soon after 5 p.m. The usual Royal salute was fired. Here the Duke was received by Colonel S. Becher, commanding the troops in Delhi; Major MacMahon, Deputy-Commissioner, and other civil and military officers, and drove off immediately to " Ludlow Castle," Colonel McNeile's residence. The roads were lined with troops ; the band played " God Save the Queen," and the Royal carriage was escorted by a squadron of the 8th Irregular Cavalry. After dinner the Duke, accompanied by Colonel McNeile, General Chamberlain and the suite, visited the city, which was brilliantly illuminated. The Duke was in the howdah with Colonel McNeile. The suite followed on elephants. The road to the Lahore Gate was beautifully illuminated with coloured lamps hanging from the trees ; the effect was excellent, and free from the formality of continuous lines of light. There were triumphal arches in the Chandney Chowk and Dureeba, and up to the front of the steps of the Jumma Musjid was one con- tinuous blaze of Bengal lights and other forms of illumination. The streets, and every house-top, window and balcony were crowded ; num- bers preceding the elephants, joining the European soldiers in loud hurrahs, made a most exciting scene. Dismounting at the foot of the Jumma Musjid, the Duke, with many ladies and gentlemen, wit- nessed a grand display of fireworks from the platform of the mosque. They then returned to Ludlow Castle. Many of the most interesting spots in connection with the siege of 1857 were pointed out by Sir N. Chamberlain. The weather has been much warmer, but it is expected that rain will fall soon, and bring back cold weather. All are well. Februarv gth, 1870, Lahore. Left Delhi at 10.30 p.m. of the 8th, by train for Loodianah. A royal salute was fired, and the railway station was brilliantly illuminated. Reached Loodianah at about 8 a.m. of the gth. General R. Taylor, Colonel Elliott and other civil and military officers met the Duke. Chota-hazari was provided near the railway station in tents, and after a short rest the party, ac- companied by General Taylor, drove to the banks of the Sutledge, where Mr. Hemfrey and the Chbf Engineer, Mr. Harrison, were in attendance, and crossing the river in boats inspected the new bridge, the piers of which are now rapidly being completed. After mounting to the platform on the top of one of these piers, and inspecting the process of pumping cut the tube, they proceeded in trolleys to Philour, where breakfast was provided by the railway authorities. A drive of seven miles brought the party to Phagwora, where a special train was waiting to convey them to Lahore. Here the Duke was received with a royal salute, the troops presenting arms. Passing through Jullunder, where another salute was fired, the train reached Umritsur at about 3.30 p.m., where the chief civil and military officers of the station were in attendance, and a salute was fired. Here the Duke was met by the Lieut.-Governor Sir D. Macleod. After resting for about an hour to dress and have tiffin, the party proceeded to Lahore, and arrived at about 5. Here another royal salute was fired, and the Duke was received by a large concourse of people, including the chief civil and military officers of the station, the Maharajahs of Cashmere, Kuppurthulah and other native chiefs. The road to Government House was lined with troops cavalry, infantry and artillery and the bands played " God Save the Queen " as the Duke passed. The weather has been cooler, and a fresh breeze made it exces- sively dusty, notwithstanding the watering of the roads. A large party and conversazione at the Lieutenant-Governor's concluded the day. O i 7 6 February loM. The Duke with some of his suite went out for a ride this morning early. After breakfast an address was presented by the native members of the municipality, and visits were paid by the Maharajahs of Cashmere, Putteeala, Jheend, Nabha, the Nawab of Bhawulpore, a boy of eight years of age, the Rajahs of Kuppoorthullah and Malair Kotla and the Sirdar of Khulsia. Each of these chiefs was received with the salute due to his rank, and pre- sented a certain number of his Sirdars, After tiffin, the Duke, accom- panied by the Lieutenant-Governor, paid a visit to the Museum, where he was received by Mr. Baden-Powell. Then, escorted by a detach- ment of the 4th Hussars and Fanes' Horse, proceeded to the city. On arriving at the Akhbari Gate he was met by the native chiefs who had been presented in the morning, and mounting elephants, the Duke being in the howdah with the Maharajah of Cashmere, each member of the suite accompanying a chief in his howdah (I was with Nabha), the party, in a gorgeous procession of richly caparisoned elephants, entered the city, and passing through its narrow and picturesque streets, where every house-top and window was crowded, proceeded to the fort, where, dismounting, they entered the citadel, and rested for a time in the " Summun Boorj," Runjeet Singh's residence, where tea was offered by the attendants of three nephews of the Ameer of Cabul, who for certain state reasons are now temporary residents in the fort. Returning to Government House the Duke was entertained at a dinner party given by the Lieutenant-Governor, and afterwards went to a ball given in the Lawrence Hall Institute. The weather is much colder again, and it is hoped that rain, which is much needed, may have fallen in the vicinity. February \ilh. After breakfast the Duke, having returned the visits of the native chiefs who were presented yesterday, proceeded to Meean Meer to a tiffin party with the 85th Regiment. In returning, a visit was paid to the Shalimar Gardens, where hundreds of fountains cooled the air, and were very refreshing after the long and dusty drive. Having returned to Government House to dress, the party retraced their steps to Meean Meer to dine with the Q2nd Highlanders, and after- wards to a conversazione at the Lawrence Hall, where a large concourse of Europeans and natives had assembled. A little rain fell last night, attended with thunder and lightning, but not sufficient to lay the dust. This morning the Duke was present, in the uniform of the London Artillery, at a review at Meean Meer, of two brigades of infantry, and one of cavalry and artillery, under General Huyshe, who took command in consequence of the illness of General Rainier. The high wind and clouds of dust completely obscured the movements of the troops, but there is reason to believe that, notwithstanding the difficulties occasioned by a perfect dust storm, all went off well. After breakfast the Duke received private visits from the Maharajah of Cashmere and other chiefs. At 4 p.m. he leaves Lahore for Umritsur. It is blowing a gale of wind and the atmosphere is loaded with dust. February 12th. Left Lahore at 4.30 p.m. under the usual salutes and honours. The Maharajahs of Cashmere, Puttialah, Jheend, Kuppoorthullah, and other chiefs were at the railway station to take leave of His Royal Highness. Sir Donald Macleod and several other civil and military officers accompanied the Duke to Meean Meer, where they took their leave. I 7 7 A storm has been blowing all day, and the atmosphere was laden with dust, but near Umritsur a shower fell, which somewhat abated the nuisance. At Umritsur the Duke was received by Colonel Young, the Commissioner, and Major Birch, the Deputy Commissioner, who accompanied the party to the city buildings and town hall, where an address was read by Rajah Sir Sahib Dhyal, on the part of the inhabitants of Umritsur. They then inspected specimens of Umritsur manufactures, such as shawls, Rampore chudders, &c., and in an adjoining verandah various artisans were at work at their respective branches of industry shawl-making, beating cut golden thread, &c., &c. Wrestling and other acrobatic performances in the open air followed, and several varieties of fakeer were brought for inspection. As the evening closed in the Duke was driven through the city, which was well illuminated, considering the wind, and up one long street, the pavement of which was laid with white cloth, to the new clock tower, which is an imposing edifice, constructed by the munici- pality ; then on to the sacred tank and golden temple, where a brilliant illumination and display of fireworks took place. After this he proceeded to Colonel Young's and Major Birch's, where helmet the civil and military officers of the station at dinner. Sunday, i^th. Left Umritsur at 9 a.m. by train, and found carriages waiting at Phagworra. The Duke was accompanied by Colonel Cox, Commissioner of Jullundur. Drove to the station at Loodianah, where he was received by General Taylor, Colonel Elliott, and other officers. A special train was waiting to convey the party to Saharunpore. At Umballa the train stopped for a few minutes, and there a number of ladies and gentlemen were waiting. General Beatson and the chief staff officers were presented. The train then proceeded to Saharunpore, and at about 8 p.m. Mr. Williams, C.S.I., the Com- missioner, and Mr. Webster, the Magistrate of Saharunpore, received His Royal Highness, and drove him to the station. The party was accommodated in Mr. Webster's bungalow, and in tents. I should have noted that on the nth the Duke opened the Soldiers' Industrial Exhibition at Meean Meer. The ceremony was conducted by General Huyshe, who read an address, stating the ob- jects of the Exhibition ; the Duke then made a short but eloquent speech, and formally declared the Exhibition to be opened. The Duke then went through the Exhibition, inspecting the various works of industry, and making several purchases. The prizes having been presented to the successful competitors, he returned to Anarkullee. February \^th. The weather is beautifully fine, clear and cool. The rain that fell yesterday has cooled the air, and there is a good view of the snowy range, Gungootri and Jumnootri being visible. The cool, crisp northerly breeze blowing from over the snow is in- vigorating and pleasant. It is impossible to conceive a more delight- ful climate than that of Saharunpore as it is at present. After breakfast the Duke, accompanied by Mr. Williams, Colonel Couper, Mr. Webster and part of his suite, visited the stud at Saharunpore, and after inspecting the stables and a number of the horses, proceeded with a small party to Deyrah. I was deputed by Sir N. Chamberlain to take his place on the occasion of this visit to Missouri. He remained (not being very well) at Saharunpore. i 7 8 After tiffin at the dak bungalow, at Futtehpore, we went through the beautiful pass in the Sewalik Range, whence there was a charming view of the Himalayan snows, and arrived at Deyrah 6 p.m. Mr. Ross, C.S., the Superintendent of the Dhoon, and Colonel Macpherson, C.B., V.C., received the Duke. Here excellent provision had been made for the reception, and after resting for a short time, His Royal Highness paid a visit to the Government Garden, where cinchona and other rare plants are reared. We ride up to Mussoori and Landour to-morrow, and return to dine at Deyrah. February i$th. This morning after breakfast, the Duke received several gentlemen residing at Deyrah. After inspecting the Sirmoor Battalion, accompanied by Mr. Williams, C.S.I., Mr. Ross, Colonel Macpherson, and Mr. Thomas, Superintendent of Police, he drove to Rajpore, at the foot of the hills, then, on ponies, rode up to Mussoori and Landour, where Colonel Chippendale and Dr. Kellett, the officers of the Convalescent Depot, received His Royal Highness. After ascending to the highest point of Landour the Lalterba about 7,500 feet above the sea, where there is a magnificent view of the snow, the Duke rode to the Club, and was entertained by the officers of the Depot, then down the hill to Rajpore, and back to Deyrah in time for dinner. The day was most favourable. The recent rain had so completely cleared the atmosphere that there was a distinct view of the distant snowy range. The peaks of Budri Nauth, Bunder Ponch, Keddarkanta, Gungootri and Jummootri were visible. The air was dry and bracing, but not unpleasantly cold, indeed, the sun's rays made it rather incon- veniently warm in ascending and descending the hill. The thermometer at Landour never falls below 26, and at 2 p.m. it was pleasantly warm on the highest peak. The expedition was a most agreeable one, and the Duke was much pleased with the magnificent scenery of the Himalayas, and with the rich and prosperous appearance of the Dhoon and the charming station of Deyrah. i6M. The Duke breakfasted with Colonel Macpherson and the officers of the Sirmoor Battalion, at their charmingly-situated mess- house, which is close to a tea plantation, where he had the opportunity of seeing the plant in the garden, and the process by which tea is made. The season for tea-making had gone by, but some leaves were picked, and the various steps of the process were gone through by two China- men, under the superintendence of Mr. Mooney, the manager. He left immediately after breakfast, a guard of honour of the Goorkhas being in attendance at the mess-room, and was escorted for several miles by the officers of the station. The air, which had been for the last two days unusually bright and clear, now became somewhat obscured by the dust, raised by a strong S.W. wind, and long before reaching the dak bungalow of Futtehpore, the snowy range had dis- appeared from view. Tiffin was prepared in the dak bungalow at Mohun, at the entrance of the pass of that name through the Sewalik Range, and the party arrived at Saharunpore at about 6 p.m. The occurrence of two days of exceptionally clear and bright weather was most fortunate; it enabled the Duke to have a most favourable view of the glorious scenery of this part of the Himalayas. After dinner at Saharunpore, the party, with the exception of two who had gone to Muttra, started for Cawnpore, at n p.m., by a special train. Ijth. The train arrived at Toondla in time for breakfast, and after a short halt, during which time Fraser and Beresford rejoined, and Bradford left for Jeypore, proceeded to Cawnpore, arriving at i p.m. Here the Duke was received by a guard of honour and by the civil and military officers of the station. After a short rest for tiffin and a change of dress, he went direct to the railway station, on the other side of the river, stopping on the way to visit the memorial gardens and well. At the station Colonel Chamier the Deputy-Commissioner of Oonao, i\f. Currie, C.S., General Beadle and other officers were waiting. A special train, under the supervision of General Beadle reached Lucknow in the space of an hour and a quarter, the journey being accomplished with great comfort. At Lucknow the Duke was received by a guard of honour, the Chief Commissioner Mr. Davies, Sir G. Couper, and other civil and military officers, the Nawabs Moosun-ood-Dowlah and Muntaz-ood-Dowlah, the Maharajah of Bulrampore, and other native chiefs. A royal salute was fired. The Duke drove off in the Chief Com- missioner's carriage to Government House, formerly known as Bankes* Bungalow. iSth. This morning the members of the Royal Family of Oude, and a number of talookdars, were presented by the Chief Commis- sioner. At 4 p.m. the Duke, with his suite, paid a visit to the Resi- dency, accompanied by Mr. Davies, General Taylor, Colonel Barrow and others. They were received by Sir G. Couper and other survivors of the Lucknow Garrison, who were drawn up to receive the Duke in front of the old Banqueting Hall. The various places of interest the Residency House, the Banqueting Hall, the Redan Battery, the Tyekhana, Church-yard, Ommaney's and Gubbins' outpost, the Bri- gade Mess, Cawnpore Battery, Dr. Fayrer's *house, the Treasury and Baily Guard Gate were pointed out. The party returned to the Chief Commissioner's, passing by the Chutter Munzil, the Shah Nujuf, Kuddum Rosool, Secunderbagh, and through the Wingfield Gardens. The Residency is kept in beautiful order, and each place of interest is marked with a marble slab. Flower gardens mark the old scenes of strife and bloodshed. The ruins are carefully preserved and guarded from further decay. The number of survivors is but few, and has con- siderably diminished since they last assembled to meet Lord Lawrence on a similar occasion. One could hardly believe that the dilapidated and shot-torn buildings were thirteen years ago the quiet, happy homes of many now lying in the Residency church-yard. A ball at the Chutter Munzil completed the proceedings of the day. The weather is beginning to get warm, and the S.W. wind loads the atmosphere with dust. February igth, Lucknow. The ball in the Chutter Munzil was well attended, the rooms were beautifully decorated, the supper was laid in the Lal-baradaree, to which a covered way, enclosed with ever- greens, and brilliantly illuminated with colored lamps, had been erected. The music and dancing commenced on the arrival of the Duke, who led Mrs. Davies to the raised dais, and continued until an early hour in the morning. The Duke and suite, with Mr. Davies and General Brooke Taylor, took tiffin with Colonel Hardy and the officers of the 2ist Hussars, and afterwards went to the Lucknow Races, which commenced at about 3.30 p.m. ; he stayed for three races, and then *I took the Duke over my house, and explained all the details to him. J.F. i8o returned to the Chief Commissioner's to dinner. In the evening a. fete was held in the Kaiserbagh. February 2oth. The talookdars held their fete in the Kaiserbagh yesterday evening. An address in English and in Oordoo was read, to which the Duke made a suitable reply. A sword and shield were presented by the talookdars ; a grand display of fireworks, witnessed by a dense crowd of Europeans and natives ; a supper, a nautch, and then the distribution of hars (necklaces) concluded the entertainment. This morning the Duke and suite attended the Cantonment Church. In the afternoon, accompanied by the Chief Commissioner and suite, he visited Muchi Bhowan Fort, the Emambara of Asofood Dowlah, and drove through the principal streets of the city, especially those commanded by the fort guns. Crossing the iron bridge and re- crossing by the new bridge, he paid a visit to the "Tara Kotee," the old observatory, now the Bank of Bengal, and saw the pillar, upon which, in former days, the transit instrument was placed. After dinner half the suite set off for Seetapore, in dak carriages, on the way to the camp in the terai, for tiger-shootine in the Kyregurh jungles. The Duke and the remainder of the party follow on Monday evening. February 2ist. This morning the Duke was present at a review of the troops in the Dil Koosha Park, by General Brooke Taylor, and wore the uniform of the London Volunteer Artillery. Some of the party visited the Residency and other interesting sites in connection with the defence and siege of 1857. The weather is splendid. Lucknow is looking its best, and may certainly claim to be the most beautiful station in India. The garden of Wingfield Park produces the most exquisite flowers, the roses are especially fine, nearly 120 varieties are produced, and all of the best description. Dr. Cannon, the Civil Surgeon, has devoted much atten- tion to them, with the result of producing the finest roses in India. There was an illumination of the city this evening, and a gorgeous display of fireworks at the Hosseinabad Imambarah. The Duke and suite, with the Chief Commissioner, the General, and other civil and military officers were present, and, on leaving, were presented by the Nawab Moohsum-ood- Dowlah with hars (necklaces). They then drove through the city, and had a view of the great Imambarah of Asuph-ood-Dowlah, which was illuminated. At midnight the Duke and the remainder of his suite took leave of Mr. and Mrs. Davies and set off for Seetapore in dak carriages. Arrived there early on the morning of the 22nd, and drove to the mess-house of the 6oth Rifles, where they were received by Colonel Palmer, C.B., and the officers of the regiment, at breakfast. Immediately after they proceeded to Luckimpore, about 29 miles distant from Seetapore, where Major Shaw, the Deputy-Commissioner was in attendance. After dinner they went in palankeens to camp, which was about 38 miles further on, at a place called Hilowna Gowrie, on the banks of the Mohan, the river that now separates British from Nepaul territory. Half of the party had arrived the day before. The Duke reached camp at about 8 p.m., and was received by Colonel Thomson, C.S.I., Commissioner of Seetapore, and Captain Young, Settlement Officer. Sir Jung Bahadoor, with a large retinue and many elephants, was encamped on the other bank of the Mohan. On the way to camp, after leaving Luckimpore, the rivers Ool, Chowka, Surjoo and Khagi were crossed, all except the Chowka being fordable. The night was dark, and mussals (torches) were needed. The effect in passing through some of the belts of forest within the Khyreghur district, and in wading the streams, was very wild and picturesque. February 2yd. The camp is situated on the river's bank, at Kullean ghat. The narrow stream divides British from Nepaul territory; the tract of country on the opposite side was given to the Nepaulese after the mutiny, and contains some of the finest forest land in India. The gift was probably more valuable than, at that time, it was supposed to be. The Royal Standard of Britain is hoisted on one side, whilst that of the prime minister, the virtual ruler of Nepaul, is on the other. The Mohan abounds with alligators and gurrials. On the 22nd one of Sir Jung's men, bathing in the river, was carried off and eaten by an alligator. Fourteen years ago this used to be splendid hunting ground. It is said to be so still, notwithstanding the encroachments of cultivation. A tiger has already been heard of, and after breakfast he is to be sought for. Sir Jung Bahadoor is to cross the river to meet the Duke, in British territory, after breakfast, and will accompany him on the hunt. The weather is getting warm, fleecy clouds obscure the sun, but diffuse rather than intercept its rays. Sir Jung's camp resounds with barbaric music. After breakfast the Minister crossed the river by a bridge thrown over for the occasion, and rode into camp. He was preceded by his body-guard and a band of music. The Duke received Sir Jung, with Colonel Lawrence, the Political Agent ; Colonel Thompson, the Com- missioner of Seetapore; Captain Young, settlement officer, and eight principal sirdars, all colonels. The Maharajah, who is a slight, active and wiry-looking man, of about 53, with fair Mon- golian features, was dressed in a military uniform, and decorated with the Grand Cross of the Bath. His head dress was made of the most costly jewels, said to be worth about .15,000. The visit lasted only a few minutes, and shortly after the Duke got into the howdah, and crossing the river was joined by the Maharajah, Sir Jung Bahadoor, in a plain blue cotton shooting dress, with a broad sola hat ; and the Maharajah Sir Digbija Singh, K.C.S.I., of Bulrampore, in a dress very like it, only colored green. The combined party, with a line of above 400 elephants 130 belonging to our camp proceeded in the direction of an extensive grass and tree jungle, where the tiger had been marked down, and where, during the last few days, he had killed several buffaloes. On the way some small game was shot, but on approaching the vicinity of the tiger, firing ceased, and arrangements were made by Sir Jung for surrounding him. After beating in line through a belt of sal forest, skirting the long grass, the line was gradually formed into a circle, and the elephants were brought so close as to touch each other. It certainly was a magnificent sight, and one seldom witnessed. The elephants were thoroughly trained, and staunch, as the result proved when the tiger tried to break the circle. The enclosure being complete, the Duke, in the same howdah, a large square one, with Sir Jung Bahadoor, went into the circle, and the tiger soon revealed himself, although the grass was very high, with occasional vacant places. Only the Duke fired, the rest of the party being told not to do so unless the tiger got on any elephant's head. Being wounded he made several charges, but the elephants stood firm, and he could not get out though he tried hard to do so, and fell at the third 1*2 shot. He proved to be a fine male tiger, 10 feet I inch in length, and very heavy. It was a most exciting scene the wildness of the place, the mag- nificent line of elephants, and the steadiness with which they and their mahouts carried out the Maharajah's orders were remark- able, and the Duke was much pleased : though perhaps in a strictly sporting sense the tiger may be considered to have been rather hardly used. The Nepaulese elephants are well trained, and are so frequently employed by Sir Jung in tiger-shooting and elephant hunt- ing that they cannot be surpassed. They are worked in line by bugle calls, and are taught to go at a pace that no other elephants can equal. The Maharajah is a great sportsman, and spends a considerable part of each year in the terai. After padding the tiger, general shooting commenced. We returned to camp in the evening, after an excellent day's sport on the banks of the Mohan, with a bag of about twenty deer, one tiger, and a quantity of partridges, hares, pea and jungle fowl. In returning to camp, just before dark, an accident occurred, which was attended with very serious consequences to a mahout, whilst two persons in the howdah had a very narrow escape. An old, but very famous elephant, made a false step, and, being weak, fell against a tree and crushed the howdah. The native gentlemen jumped out of the howdah, whilst the mahout, an old man, who was trying to drag the howdah over on one side, as it had become crooked, was crushed against the tree, and sustained a very serious injury to the left hand. The wound was temporarily dressed, and he was taken into camp, where I found it necessary to amputate part of the hand, in which operation Lord C. Beresford rendered valuable assistance. But for this unfortunate accident the day had been a most successful one. The weather was fine, a moderate breeze tempered the heat, and the wild scenery of the forests, the grassy plains on the banks of the river, which are them- selves very picturesque, with the ever-varying interest of the working of the magnificent line of elephants, made up a scene that has seldom been equalled. After dinner the camp fire was lighted, and the plans for the next day discussed. February 24th. The camp moves to-day about eight miles, to a spot in the forest on the banks of the Kundwarra, a tributary of the Mohan. The line of elephants was not quite so large to-day, some being employed in moving the camp, but it could not have been less than 350. The beat lay over ground very like that of yesterday, but no tiger was found. A leopard, or, as some said, a tiger was started, but the forest ano! grass were so extensive that it was not seen again. We arrived in the new camp at Dhunpal beautifully situated in a fine sal forest, on the banks of the Kundwarra, with a good bag of spotted and hog-deer, partridges, hares, jungle and pea-fowl ; a few florican were seen, but only two killed. Before leaving camp this morning, one of the Maharajah's camel- men was brought in with a severe wound in the left thigh just above the knee. He was wading across the Mohan, which was shallow, when he was suddenly seized and dragged down by a large gurrial. Some sepoys, who were close at hand, rushed to the rescue, and one of them so severely wounded the great saurian that it let ge and tried to make '83 its escape; the man followed, thrusting in his bayonet, and then, having fired all his (six) cartridges, clubbed his rifle, and belaboured it until the stock was broken. The brute by this time was so far hors de combat that it turned over as if dead, was dragged on shore and brought into camp along with the man it had bitten. Fortunately the frip had not been very firm, and a portion of integument only, about ve inches in circumference, had been torn away, leaving a painful, though not very dangerous wound. The gurrial was over 16 feet in length. It was opened, and the stomach found empty, with the exception of about twenty or thirty pebbles, from the size of peas or marbles to a hen's egg. These are useful for purposes of digestion, and are probably always found in the stomachs of these creatures. This incident quite settles the question that the gurrial does take other food than fish, although from the conformation of his jaws he is not able to seize so large a morsel, or inflict so great a wound as the alligator. The weather is almost cold at night, and the heat during the day is not oppressive, as there is generally a breeze. All the party are well. After dinner a small elephant about three years old, which has been trained to go at great speed, and has been presented to the Duke by the Maharajah, was brought into the tent to be inspected. He was evidently very nervous and timid on finding himself in such a new and strange position, and groaned loudly in protestation. Sir Jung also sent a nuzzur of tiger skins, a young living tiger cub, some yaks' tails, musk pods, pieces of silk, and a variety of kookries and bougialis to be presented to the Duke, and a kookrie for each of the suite. An infusion of cinnamon and some fruits were also sent, and reported on favour- ably after dinner. We halt to-morrow, and it is hoped that the search for tigers may be more successful than it has been to-day. February 2$th. Our camp is on the Kundwarra, a small and very winding tributary of the Mohan. That of Sir Jung Bahadoor is on the opposite side, and together they must amount to three or four thousand men, with about five hundred elephants. Sir Jung has recently been catching wild elephants in the terai, not many miles from the present camp, and he is very anxious to take the Duke to see a fresh herd which has already been surrounded captured, but un- fortunately time does not permit. Sir Jung has several very large and powerful male elephants which are used for catching the larger wild ones. They are kept at some distance from his camp, being fierce and sometimes dangerous. After breakfast three of the party went with Colonel Lawrence to Sir Jung's camp to see the Nepaulese feats of cutting wood with the kookrie, a heavy trenchant weapon, with a peculiar curve in the blade, and short handle, with which, as Sir Jung said, they do everything from cutting down a tree or killing a tiger, to making the finest work in wood or other material. The minister was good enough to show how the weapon was used, and himself cut through a piece of green wood about a foot in circumference, with one stroke. One man cut across a piece of semel (cotton) wood, sixteen inches in circumference, with one blow. The young tree is either let into the ground, and the end bent down, so as to make it spring when the cut is made on the convexity, or one end is rested on the ground, and the other on a forked branch. The end projecting from the crutch is the part to be cut. Like many other things, it is easier than it looks, and as it is only done on soft green wood, the feat is not so very ,8 4 remarkable, and there is no doubt that any English swordsman would, with a week's practice with the kookrie, do all that the Nepaulese can do. They were amused when some of our party expressed a wish to try, and astonished when they saw them cut through young cotton trees like those that had just been divided by the man who was put forward as the champion. Sir Jung himself is an adept, and he told his visitors that he had on one occasion saved the life of an English officer by cutting down a tiger with the kookrie, just as he was on the point of seizing him. After breakfast we got into the howdahs, and formed line in quest of a tiger, but he was not found, and general shooting commenced. The line of about 350 elephants, which extended over more than a mile, was worked by the bugle call, the howdahs being distributed at inter- vals. Having crossed the river, the beat lay through grassy plains, or in the forest. One end of the line, indeed, was in the forest nearly all the day. The bag was varied, consisting of about 18 spotted or hog-deer, hares, black partridges, pea and jungle fowl. Florican are scarce, but some were shot. The day was fine, and the heat moderate. The Nepaul hills were distinctly seen, and the scenery of the magnificent sal forest beautiful. The game is found in the grassy plains very little in the forest, except on the margins, where the spotted axis is common. It is too early in the season for tiger shooting ; the grass is too extensive, and it is only by accident that they can be found now, or when marked down after killing a cow or buffalo. When gorged, the tiger is lazy and in- disposed to move. A month or six weeks later the grass will be burned, and the tigers confined to particular spots, where they may be more readily found and killed. There was khubur of three tigers yesterday, but, notwithstand- ing the arrangements made by Sir Jung and his people, and the line of 350 elephants, only foot-prints could be found. The party has been increased since the 24th by the presence of Captain Speedy and the young Abyssinian Prince Alamayou. Cap- tain S. has an appointment in Oude. The camp moves from Dhunpal, or as some call it Peihlwan Gowrie, to-day. This part of the terai is almost uninhabited, except by Taroos and Bunjarras, nomadic people, probably the autocthones of the country. A few cattle herding stations called gowries are met with here and there; the remainder is grass and forest. In some parts of the terai, the elephant, rhinoceros, and game of all kinds abound. The miniature pig (Porculia selvatica), described by Hodgson, a great desideratum of naturalists, is said to be here. February 26th. The Maharajah crossed the river and came into camp, bringing with him some of his men, who exhibited their skill in cutting green wood with the kookrie. Soon afterwards the party got into their howdahs, and the beat with elephants commenced. It lay again through the same sort of country, grassy plains, and forest con- sisting chiefly of sal. The Mohan was recrossed, and the tents, now in British territory, again were in sight, when a Gwalah (cowherd) came up and said he had just seen a tiger kill a cow. The cover was perfect, the country wild and uncultivated, long grass by the river-side, and clumps of forest scattered here and there. The howdahs and pads were gradually got into line on receipt of this welcome news, and the spot 85 a most tigerish one, was gradually enclosed in a circle of elephants. The tiger was soon afoot, and received a shot from the Duke s rifle. He made several attempts to break the line, but the elephants were staunch, and, after some ineffectual charges, he fell riddled with bullets. The temptation was strong, and several of the party fired. He proved to be a very fine male tiger, ten feet three inches in length. He made little fight, for he had no chance of doing so. Several peacocks were in the grass at the time, and being so confused that they could not escape, were caught by the mahouts and charcuttahs, who picked them up. After this unexpected piece of luck the line moved on to the new camp at Pursooah, about eight miles from the last camp, and on a plain about half a mile from the Mohan. Sir Jung Bahadoor is en- camped close at hand. The bag to-day consisted of the tiger, about a dozen spotted, or hog-deer, hares, partridges and peafowl, but much less game was found than yesterday. The weather is getting warmer daily, but it is still very pleasant, and agreeably cold at night. All the party are, with trifling exceptions, well, and enjoying the wild scenery and the sport exceedingly. Sir Jung Bahadoor was anxious to take the Duke further into the Nepaul territory, where he promised much better shooting, both of tigers and small game, as well as the catching of elephants, but the Duke's engagements do not per- mit of his accepting the invitation. The camp moves on gradually to Newal-Khar, where it will break up, and the Duke return to Lucknow. February 28th, camp, Pursooah. The camp moved to-day. The party went out yesterday, on receiving khubur that a tiger had killed a cow, about eight miles from camp. After a tedious journey across grassy plains and nullahs, near the banks of the Mohan, the place was reached, the " kill " found, but no tiger was there. Several promising C laces were beat, but he had gone, and the party returned to camp ite in the evening after a blank day, not a gun having been fired. Several nullahs had to be crossed, and the Mohan, a very winding stream, forded several times. The only excitement of the day was the sticking of some of the elephants in the " phussun " (quicksand). Beyond a little delay, and some inconvenience to the occupants of the howdahs, no evil occurred. The day was the hottest yet felt, and very suggestive of what is soon coming. This morning after breakfast we crossed the Mohan to Sir Jung Bahadoor's camp, on the other bank, within the Nepaul territory, to take leave. The Duke was received by the Nepaulese minister and his sirdars, all military men, with one or two exceptions dressed in scarlet coats and epaulettes ; and by a regiment dressed in the British fashion, except the head-dress, which is a sort of turban with a crescent of brass over the forehead. Sir Jung conducted the Duke and suite to a Durbar tent. The usual civilities were exchanged, and the Duke expressed his satisfaction with the minister's efforts to pro- cure shikar. Attar and Pan were then distributed, and the party, mounting their elephants, took leave and recrossed the Mohan. A buffalo was brought out to be decapitated, to show the prowess of the Nepaulese with the kookrie, but the delicate attention was declined, with thanks, and the buffalo escaped for the time at all events. The line of elephants is now considerably reduced to about 150 ; but Sir Jung sends 25 to accompany us to Newal-Khar. 186 There was hope of getting a tiger to-day, but the grass is so ex- tensive that no success attended Colonel Thompson's best efforts. Two recent kills were found, and on the edge of the great nurkool swamp, known as Mujle-tal, the fresh foot-prints of a tigress and cubs were seen. The beat lay through sal forests, grassy plains, and glades in the forest. Some very wild and tigerish looking spots by the edge of deep nullahs in the forest were explored, but no tiger was found. The camp is now at Surma-Gowrie, a cattle grazing station with cul- tivation near it, and not very far from the edge of a small stream known as the Ghagi. The bag to-day consisted of a goen, some smaller deer, black partridges, snipe, hare, and a python 10 feet 9 inches in length. These were killed just as the party approached the camp. In the earlier part of the day, whilst there was any hope of finding a tiger, no general firing was allowed. The camp to-day is about twelve miles from Pursooah. The Duke on parting with Sir Jung Bahadoor, presented him with a watch and chain, and a double rifle. The minister certainly did his best to find game, and was most obliging and agreeable in every way. The Maharajah of Bulrampore has been with us from the first, and will remain until we return to Lucknow. The weather gets sensibly hotter every day, but it is still pleasant even during the day, as there is generally a breeze. The nights are still cold, the air is delightful, and at this season is perfectly healthy, and will be so until after the rains, in October, November and December, when the terai is unhealthy. At that time even the cattle grazing stations are deserted, except by the Taroos, who seem to be proof against the malarious influences the whole year round. The country is then almost uninhabited, except by these people. The Nepaulese who come down during the healthy months, return to their hills as soon as they are over, and the cattle are driven away to the plains. The terai is then left to the few human beings who can with- stand the deadly influence of the climate, to the tigers, elephants and other wild beasts. There are two interpretations of the derivation of the word " terai "-one, "it tur," moisture; the other "tulli," beneath,*.*., beneath the hills. In some parts the terai is not moist, and the outer ranges or elevations at the outskirts of the hills are anything but damp. The submontane meaning may be the correct one of the word terai. The Nepaul hills are distinctly visible, especially after a shower of rain. They look admirably situated for a hill station, and no doubt a suitable locality might easily be found were search allowed. The sal forests are very valuable and extensive. Government have fiven away a mine of wealth in that recently made over to Nepaul ut much still remains, and as it is now under the supervision of a regularly-organised forest department, its value will be appreciated and realised. March 1st. The camp moves again to-day to Newal-khar, about twelve miles from Soorma. The beat lay in the direction of the new camp, and was for some miles in a low grassy nullah, through which a small stream, known as the Ghagi or Ghagra runs sluggishly. The sal forest skirts the banks of this stream, and there are frequent open spaces covered with long grass. It is impossible to conceive better cover for tigers, everything being there that they require cover, water, and plenty of food; cattle in the plains, deer and wild pigs i8 7 in the jungle no doubt they abound; their tracks were seen, but not- withstanding all efforts, none were found, and the day, as far as tigers are concerned, was again a blank. The Duke was fortunate enough in crossing a strip of the sal forest to kill a splendid stag sambhur (Rusa Aristotelis), and shortly afterwards, near the same spot, an almost equally fine specimen of the goen, (swamp deer or Rucervus Duvaucellii.) The contrast between the two stags was well marked, the difference in form of the head and horns, to say nothing of the greater size of the sambhur, sufficiently mark them as totally distinct species, the one having only six, whilst the other has ten or more points to the horns. The sambhur was much the larger of the two. A very fine stag spotted deer or cheetul was also killed, as well as some hog-deer, and the little munt jak, or carker (Cervulus Aureus) was also seen, making five different forms of deer seen to-day. A large python, nearly eleven feet long, was killed yesterday by Beresford near Mujle Tal ; he got out of his howdah and attacked it with a kookrie. The snake attempted to retaliate, but was soon killed. The sal forests are here exceedingly beautiful the hours spent in them were rather monotonous from the sameness of the scenery and the dearth of animal life; but the open glades of grass and the patches of nurkool break the monotony, and generally are pro- ductive of game. Near the edge of the forest much game is often seen, and firing along the line at these places becomes vigorous. The bag daily contains deer, partridges, pea and jungle fowl, hares, and occasionally a few snipe shot in the jheels that lie in the way. The camp at Newal-khar is picturesquely situated in an open plain near the edge of the forest, from which it is separated by a clear stream, said to be called the Newal-Nullah, but there seems to be much uncertainty about names in this little-visited district, and it may have others. The plains that intersect the forest are covered by long dry grass, which is generally burnt about this time, the ashes forming the manure for the new young grass when it first springs up, is good grazing for the miserable-looking cattle that pick up a precarious ex- istence here. A lighted match, falling into it, laid a considerable extent of the grass in ashes very rapidly to-day ; a light breeze made the flame burn rapidly, and filled the air with smoke. Burning the grass is now prohibited by the forest laws, as the fire might spread to the forest, and seriously injure, if not destroy, many of the young trees. The camp will remain here to-morrow. In the evening the first half of the party return to Seetapore. March 2nd. Half the party went on to Luckimpore this morn- ing ; the remainder, with the Duke, went out after breakfast, as usual. Just before breakfast a poor charcutteh, when cutting charrah for the elephants, fell from a tree and broke his left thigh, his left wrist, and left elbow. The injuries were very severe. Splints and bandages were extemporised, and he was sent off in a dhoolie to Luckimpore. After breakfast the Duke, accompanied by the rest of his suite, the Maharajah of Bulrampore, and Jung Bahadoor, the brother of the Khyregurh Rajah, with the Nepaulese Colonel in charge of the elephants, set off for the jungle. The beat commenced in a " khair " (Catechu) forest and long grass, and the line was excited from end to end by the report that three tigers (a tigress and two full grown cubs) were afoot. They soon made their appearance, and broke cover i88 in fine style. One cub broke to the left of the line, and was killed immediately. The others got away, and were lost in the forest. After a long beat in the forest by the side of a nullah, and through a nurkool swamp, during which nilgye, spotted deer, and other game in abundance were seen, the search was abandoned, and a general beat commenced, during which a fair amount of game was bagged, among others a large python, seventeen feet long and twenty-four and a half inches in circumference. It required six or eight men to lift it on to the pad. The line now beat on in an opposite direction through the forest. The firing was brisk, and the line had crossed to the other side of the patch of forest, when one of the pad elephants suddenly put up a small tiger which bounded into the open, and crossed the plain. It was thought by some that a tigress was seen at the same time. For a moment he was lost sight of, but after a long stampede across the plain, during which time he had doubled back into a patch of long frass among a herd of tame buffaloes, where he got considerably nocked about, he was overtaken and killed. A patch of mud in which he got entangled was his destruction, as it prevented his escape to the forest, and allowed the elephants to come up. He tried to fight, but it was of no use, and fell riddled with bullets. This was evidently the other cub seen in the morning. They were six feet six inches, and six feet nine inches long, respectively. March 3rd. The Duke and those remaining with him set out after breakfast in search of the tigress whose cubs were killed yester- day. We crossed the Sihelie at Sutiana ghat, where the sal trees cut in the neighbouring forest are stored ; numbers of logs were lying by the river-side waiting for removal. On the other bank the line of about eighty elephants was formed ; general shooting commenced, as the ground for the expected tiger was distant. Some hog-deer, cheetul, florican, and black partridges were bagged. On approaching a deep nullah bordered by forest and long grass, firing was stopped, and the beat for the tiger commenced. Two of the party crossed with some pad elephants, and swept along the right side, whilst the remainder beat the left side of the nullah. They had not proceeded very far when the tiger was found, and in a few minutes a fine male was killed on the left side of the nullah. The Duke and Colonel Thomson had the shooting. He was a short tiger, only nine feet five inches, but very strong and with enormous limbs and teeth. He was probably no relation of the cubs shot yesterday, and the tigress remains for other sportsmen. The line beat on in search of a bear that had been seen about the time the tiger was put up ; but he was not found, and a swarm of bees soon emptied the remainder of the unbeaten part of the jungle of howdahs. It was getting late, and the line beat on over the low level plains that skirt the terai to the camp at Morowcha ghat on the Chowka, where the Duke takes leave of the Maharajah of Bulrampore and other native gentlemen who have been with the camp. After dinner the party, including Colonel Thomson and Captain Young, started in palkie for Lukimpore. They arrived at Major Shaw's house in time for breakfast, and there met Captain Speedy with the Abyssinian Prince Alamayou, a bright intelligent little fellow, of eight, who speaks English well, and seems much attached to his guardian. After breakfast the Duke took leave of Major Shaw, and left for Seetapore, arriving in time for dinner, with Colonel Palmer ,89 and his officers. Soon atter dinner the journey was resumed, and we reached Lucknow on the morning of the 5th. There was some rain with thunder and lightning at night. The effect has been to lay the dust and cool the air. We have enjoyed the trip to the terai. The sport, considering the time of the year, has been excellent, the weather charming, and the kindness and hospitality of all the civil and military authorities un- wearying and unlimited. Sir Jung Bahadoor, the Maharajah of Bulrampore, the Nawab Mooshun-ood-Dowlah, and other native gentlemen have been most kind and attentive, leaving nothing undone to evince their desire to do honour to the Duke. Saturday , March 5th, Lucknow. There was rain with thunder and lightning last night, and the air was cooler. We arrived at the Chief Commissioner's this morning, and the Duke had rest for the greater part of the day. The first party had reached Lucknow the day before, after sundry misadventures by the way. The Duke and his suite dined with Colonel Ingall, C.B., and the officers of H.M.'s 62nd Regiment, and after dinner went to some private theatricals at the cantonment theatre. The piece was " A Wolf in Sheep's Clothing," and the parts were well sustained by officers and ladies. On Sunday went to service in the Civil Church, and at 4 p.m. took leave of Mr. and Mrs. Davies and the civil and military authorities of the station, and proceeded by special train to Cawnpore, accompanied by General Beadle, Mr. Currie, C.S., and other officers, and reached Oonao at about 4.30 p.m. The Duke has much enjoyed his visit to Oude ; the suite, who have received such marked kindness, hospitality, and attention from the officers whose guests they have been, will always remember this as a most agreeable part of their travels in India. The sport has been excellent, considering the early season, and this is mainly attributable to Sir Jung Bahadoor's efforts, and to the admirable arrangements of Colonel Thompson, Captain Young, and the other officers, who left nothing undone that could make the expedition to the terai a success. The bag in Oude during the eight days' shooting amounted to over 300 head of game. THE BAG IN THE OUDE TERAI. 5 Tigers. 109 Partridges. 1 Sambhur. 32 Peafowl. 2 Goen (swamp deer). 14 Jungle Fowl. I Nilgye 4 Florican. 32 Spotted Deer. 14 Snipe. 37 Hog Deer. 2 Porcupines. 9 Wild Boars. 2 Pythons. 41 Hares. Total 305 making, with those in other parts of India, eight tigers, three buffaloes, ten sambhur, two barasingha or goen; two pythons. On arriving at Cawnpore, drove to the mess-house of H.M.'s I4th Regiment, where we dined with Colonel Dwyer, his officers, and Brigadier General Forest and the chief civil and staff officers of the station; and at 11.30 proceeded by special train to Allahabad, whence, after a short halt, continued the journey to Jubbulpore. On the morning of the 7th the party breakfasted at Mujgown, and after breakfast proceeded to Sutna, where the Duke was received by the 190 Maharajah of Rewah, whose troops were paraded, and fired a royal salute as the Duke, attended by Mr. Mayne, C.B., the Commissioner, his suite, and other officers, arrived, and was conducted to a Durbar tent, where the principal sirdars were presented. After the usual com- pliments, attar-pan, &c., the Duke and his suite returned to their carriages, and went on their way, reaching Jubbulpore at about 5 p.m. The Duke was received at Jubbulpore by Colonel Spence, the commissioner, and the other chief civil, military, and railway authori- ties, and proceeded with his suite to the Residency, Colonel Spence's house, where his camp with that of the Viceroy was pitched. Several native chiefs, the Maharajah Holkar, the Rajahs of Punnah, Nagode, and Sir Salar Jung were present. The Viceroy, with Sir S. Fitz- Gerald, the Governor of Bombay, were expected to open the railway. Shortly after arriving at the Residency the Duke received visits from Maharaj; the Rajah of Nagode. At about'8 p.m., the Viceroy and the Governor the Maharajah Holkar, the Rajah of Punnah, Sir Salar Jung, and of Bombay having arrived, the Duke proceeded to the junction of the two lines of rail, when the ceremony of completing their union was performed by torchlight, by driving in the last key which connected them. The communication was then declared open between the East and West of India. At 9 p.m. a grand banquet was given by the railway authorities at the School of Industry, in honour of the opening of the line, and after dinner the Viceroy and the Duke, the Governor of Bombay, Mr. Brereton, the chief engineer, and other gentlemen made speeches appropriate to the occasion. On the following morning, the 8th, the Duke returned the visits of the Maharajah Holkar, the Rajah of Punnah, and Sir Salar Jung, and at about 10 a.m. set off for Bombay in a special train, intending to halt on the way for a day or two's shooting. He was so pressed for time that he was unable to accom- plish his projected visit to the Marble Rocks. Here I took leave and returned to Calcutta. His Royal Highness, on parting, presented me with a beautiful ring. APPENDIX. H ARROGATE, October 14, 1875. MY DEAR FAYRER, I am very sorry I did not see you again before you left for India. . . Present accounts from Mysore give details of an attack of cholera. It is an unhealthily situated town, given to fever ; and though only 500 feet lower than Bangalore, is much less pleasant and healthy. For the past two years, moreover, the water supply has been strangely deficient. I am not surprised, therefore, at the cholera attack. There has been little rain, drinking water scarce and bad, and the place, not well drained, becomes dirty. Probably the cholera may have disappeared before the time for the Prince's visit, but if not, of course H.R.H. will not go there; indeed, there is not very much that is worth seeing at Mysore. If you make out a trip, as proposed, to Mysore, it will be from Ootacamund, and en route to Bangalore. I have ridden and driven every inch of the way several times, and at all seasons, so I am competent to give you all particulars. Your journey will be towards the end of November, i.e., about the breaking up of the N.E. Monsoon. There is usually about that time a final plumper of rain, but the seasons seem to have been rather out of gear this year, so one cannot say how this may be. " Ooty " is 74 miles or so from Mysore; about 45 miles of the road the portion nearest Mysore is quite good for carriages. The first 30 from "Ooty" includes the descent of the Seegoor Ghat, which is picturesque and steep. From Seegoor, the ghat (12 miles from "Ooty"), to Bandypoor, a traveller's bungalow ; about 31 miles from "Ooty" the road is bad for wheeled traffic. It is for the most part unhealthy too, being the Terai of the Neilgherries ; doubtless every effort will be made to put the road into the best possible order, but if there should have been a heavy and late monsoon, it cannot possibly be a good road, though it will probably be better than I have ever seen it. When I say it is the Terai of the Neilgherries, I should add that that portion of it has not the very bad name which we give to the Himalayan Terai ; still, it is bad enough. Another point to be borne in mind is that the conditions which apply in Bengal do not apply here. The dry season, and not, as in Bengal, the rainy season, is the season in which fever prevails. Part of the road is most unhealthy, i.e., a stretch of about 12 miles or so on the "Ooty" side of Bandypoor; but if you pass through when the sun is up it is safe enough, I think, and November is, as I P 192 said, less unhealthy than the drier time later on. In Bengal, when the rains set in, fever usually sets in too; in Mysore, when the S.W. monsoon sets in, fever disappears, and the jungles before that, in many places deadly, become comparatively safe. As a halting place for rest and luncheon the Goonchulpett Traveller's Bungalow is the best and pleasantest; it is about half way, being 36 miles from Mysore. I enclose a list of the staging bungalows ; of course, the best and every preparation will be made, and you will have full official information supplied, but I give you these separate details in a friendly, confidential way. You may rely on them, and it will give you, independently, a good idea of the country and route. There are some points with regard to the Mysore climate, I mean as regards the whole province, which I have learnt by experience, and which I would mention. It is a treacherous climate, liable to cause chill and congestion ; the sun is always hot, and there is usually a searching wind blowing. The two points to bear in mind there, are to dress warm and to take plenty of exercise, and in the evening not to sit in the wind ; as soon as the sun sets there is a chilly feeling. At Mysore itself the air is rather close and oppressive. Seringapatam is interesting, but very feverish ; whenever there is cholera or fever abroad it is sure to be found flourishing about Seringapatam |and Ganjam, the neighbouting village. As I said before, a drive through the small town, and a visit in the afternoon to the palace, and another visit to Seringapatam, comprises all that is worth seeing at Mysore, and I advise you not to halt there unnecessarily long. It will take a day to drive from " Ooty " to Mysore, and another to drive from Mysore to Bangalore 88 miles. Seringapatam lies nine miles on the road to Bangalore from Mysore. The drive from " Ooty" to Mysore, and thence to Bangalore, will give a complete idea of the country. It is, for India, pleasant, because it is not very flat; indeed, the undula- tion is, in parts, so regular as to be rather ugly and monotonous, but it is not bare, and it is green, and some of the parts of road are picturesque. ... In the Mysore jungle there is game, but the time of year is not very good, and the jungles are extensive and not very healthy. . . . Remember what I have said about dressing warm, for you and everyone. Mysore is, in this respect, very unlike other parts of India, and is very treacherous. Yours very sincerely, J. D. G., (c.s.) H.M.S. SERAPIS, PORT SAID, October 23, 1875. DEAR SIR, The enclosed documents, regarding the unhealthy state of certain districts, have been placed in my hands by Dr. Russell. I would beg of you to read them and favour me with any information you may '93 obtain as to the probable accuracy of the information they contain . If they at all represent the real state of the risks to which the Prince of Wales would be exposed in visiting this part of the Madras Presi- dency, it is obvious that it would be most undesirable that His Royal Highness should follow out this part of the proposed expedition. I have shown the letters to Sir Bartle Frere, and he agrees with me that you should be requested to be so good as to make further inquiry from the medical and local civil authorities, and communicate the result to us at Bombay by the time we arrive there, the 8th November. It would be very advantageous if you could depute thoroughly competent medical authority to meet us at Bombay, where I might have the advantage of a personal interview and consultation on the subject, before we decide on what is to be done. Believe me, yours faithfully, J. FAYRER. To the Governor of Madras. The documents referred to were from gentlemen in India, addressed to the Times, handed to me by Dr. W. H. Russell. They warned H.R.H. from going where there was cholera and malaria. TELEGRAPH FROM BOMBAY, November 7, 1875. From Dr. J. Fayrer to General Ponsonby, C.B. Visit to Madras Presidency altogether put aside on account of cholera. Go to Baroda, thence to Ceylon. P. of W. and suite in ex- cellent health. Will not do too much ; no risk of cholera shall be incurred. [In reply to a telegram in cypher, expressing anxiety on the above points.] MY DEAR DR. FAYRER, BANGALORE, loth November, 1875. I have been looking forward for some weeks to the pleasure of seeing you, and of making your acquaintance at Bangalore, but I 194 have received orders to proceed at once to the ceded districts on special duty, and I leave Bangalore this evening. You will no doubt have seen, ere this reaches you, the principal facts connected with the outbreak of cholera in the Province of Mysore, and with the reasons which have induced me to regard as inadvisable H.R.H.'s project of visiting Bangalore via Mysore. I have no doubt you will concur with me when the papers are laid before you by the Officiating Chief Commissioner of Mysore. Disease broke out at Gundleput, the most southern of the Mysore Talooks, on the I4th of July, having been im- ported from the Coimbatore district. Thence it extended north and north-east, the evidence of the disease being most distinctly marked in the Talooks on and flanking the lines of road from Mysore and Bangalore. Gundleput Mysore Town Jhe Talooks> &c>> pr i nc ip a n y affected an ya arg mar j cec j on ^ e margin, and up to Haggadevan-kote > Naray r an Goda ^ in the Ashtagrain Division Jr Ul h a r In the Mysore Province up to the 3oth October the mortality returns Cha^agore amounted to ,,704. Periapatna It is true that the disease is disappearing, and that in some places it has disappeared ; but, on the other hand, it is appearing somewhat more distinctly in Talooks, nearer Bangalore, and in Bangalore itself there have been rather more than twenty cases since the ist of the month. I do not apprehend that cholera will appear in force at this station. As a rule, it has not done so for many years ; but you and I know how little able we are to indicate with accuracy the movements or incidence of cholera ; and some experience in the field of epidemics leads me invariably to err on the side of caution. It is no argument against my precaution that cholera has left a particular line of road, for we know that after a time the virus may fail to affect those who have lived through the epidemic, and yet act with virulence upon new-comers. The question of the proposed visit to Mysore and Seringapatam from Bangalore will have to be judged on its own merits when you come here, and have the latest information at your disposal. Three cases of small-pox appeared suddenly among the servants at Government House. Two of those attacked were Mr. D.'s personal servants ; the third was a child. Everything has been done to disinfect the servants' quarters, and no fresh case has made its ap- pearance. Constant reports of the health state of this place are forwarded, and I take it for granted that all of them will be sub- mitted to you. I am very strongly of opinion that H.R.H. should reach Bangalore by rail, and that the trip from Bangalore to Mysore should be finally decided on after your arrival here. I need not tell one experienced in Indian climates that Bangalore, being 3,000 feet above the sea-level, affects coiners from the plain by inaction of the skin and tendency to biliary complaints, until the con's- stitution becomes accustomed to the sudden changes of temperature. The climate is very enjoyable, but not always very safe. Severe heat about 9 a.m. follows a pleasant English morning, and continues the greater part of the day, at present, till evening, when the air becomes more or less chilly. Practically there are two points to be noted : chill after heat, and trying heat between 9 and n a.m. The N.E. monsoon is setting in irregularly, and rain may alter all these changes of temperature. It would be wise to avoid bathing in cold water, to suggest an occasional warm bath, and to advise that morning exposure to the sun as at Reviews, &c. be brought to an end, as concerns all who are not under cover by 9 a.m. Fetes in the evening may com- mence at hours when the sun is yet warm, but with the setting sun comes on a chill air very far from safe. All clothing should be determined more for cold than for heat here. Diseases of the liver are by no means uncommon. I much fear I shall be unable to reach Bangalore from my trip to the ceded districts in time to see the Prince Believe me, very sincerely yours, GEORGE SMITH, M.D., Deputy- Surgeon-General, Mysore. SHOLAPUR, 1 6th November, 1875. HONOURED SIR, I received your telegram yesterday at 3 p.m., and accordingly at once repaired to the railway station to make inquiries whether cholera or any other disease prevailed on the railway line between Sholapur and Cuddappa. I knew, myself, about the line as far as Shahabad and as far down as Raichore, from the railway servants, passengers and the railway medical officer at Sholapur, that no cholera or other disease was to be apprehended, but as your Honour wanted to know about as far down as Cuddappa, I telegraphed to the railway medical officer at Reichore to let me know, after inquiry, whether cholera or any other disease prevailed on the line between Reichore and Cuddappa, and he informed me at 8.30 p.m. what I informed you at 8.45 p.m., that there was cholera at Rampoor, two miles from Tunga-Buddra, the third station from Raichore towards the Cuddappa side. I hear from people who have arrived here last night from Raichore that a little cholera lingers about Ram- poor and other villages close to it for the last two weeks, so I think it is objectionable for H.R.H. the Prince of Wales to travel by rail to Madras. I have as yet received no reply to the telegram despatched to Cuddappa yesterday. When that is received, the information will be at once submitted to you. I am, yours obediently, KASSUM VIRGI PETEL, Assistant Surgeon, Acting Civil Surgeon, Sholapur. To Dr. Fayrer, Poona. From Madras, dated i6th November, 1875. From Officiating Chief Secretary to Government To Bombay. To Dr. Fayrer, C.S.I., on the Staff of H.R.H. the Prince of Wales. Have had sixteen weeks of cholera in different parts of this Presidency. Last week returns seventeen hundred deaths ; fifty in excess of lowest week of all, and seven hundred and eighty lower than previous week. D. F. CARMICHAEL, Officiating Chief Secretary to Government. 22nd December, 1875. From Surgeon-General Edward Balfour, Indian Medical Department, Fort St. George. To Surgeon-General Fayrer, C.S.I., on special duty with H.R.H. the Prince of Wales. SIR, I have the honour to furnish the information asked for by you, as to the deaths from cholera in the Madras Presidency during the current year, up to the end of November, 1875. I have the honour to be, Sir, Your most obedient servant, EDWARD BALFOUR. Deaths from cholera in the districts of the Madras Presidency during the year 1875, up to the 3Oth November, 1875. Ganjam 84 Kistria 15 Nellore 2297 Madras 954 Chingleput 891 South Arcot ' 4037 Trichinopoly 3086 Tanjore 11233 Madura 6860 Tinnevelly 3795 Kurnool 768 Cuddapab 3012 Bellary 1694 North Arcot 3064 Salem 1455 Coimbatore 5509 South Canara 6 Malabar 1659 Mysore 1420 Total .. .. 51839 E. BALFOUR, Surgeon-General, Indian Medical Department. Fort Saint George, 22nd December, 1875. MICHAEL'S VALLEY, ANAMALLAY CAMP, 1 8th November, 1875. DEAR DR. FAYRER, I received a telegram yesterday from Surgeon-General Balfour, dated I4th inst., directing me to proceed to Bey poor and meet you on the igth inst. I replied that it was impossible to reach Beypoor on that date, and requested further instructions. The weather up here is very wet, and the roads up the Ghat almost impassable, owing to the recent rain since the i3th. I ought not to call them roads, as they are merely paths for one at a time for nearly half-way up. I expect a break in the weather on the 2ist, when' it will be delightful up here. Thermometer ranging from 52 to 62 and 66. If by any means His Royal Highness could visit the Neilgherry Hills first though we hear here it is reported that part of the Coonoor Ghat has been carried away by the late heavy rain, I pre- sume sufficient hands could be procured to remove any obstacle in the road in the course of two or three days. There is a camp at Palaar, 31 miles from Coimbatore, where the Prince and party were to sleep the night before proceeding up the Animallais, but as cholera has shown itself there since I left the camp (four cases), it is not considered advisable H.R.H. should stay the night there, but push on for Pulachi, a town 24 miles from Coimbatore . Should no fresh cases of cholera occur during the next week, it will be quite safe to sleep there one night. It will take two days to reach this camp in such weather as we are now having, starting from Palaar. So if His Royal Highness could visit the Neilgherries now, and after- wards come here, I think the weather by that time will be mcst enjoyable. Should you desire it, I shall be happy to meet you to confer on what course should be taken, if you will kindly name a time and place. We hear that H.R.H. will not now visit Coimbatore, as cholera prevails in the town. The disease, in my opinion, prevails in most Indian towns for the greater part of the year, and should not, in my opinion, prevent the Prince of Wales going to Coimbatore. The European residents live away from the town, on a nicely raised spot, and the house which it is intended His Royal Highness should occupy, is well situated. All will be well if you could go to the Neilgherries before coming here. I remain, yours truly, LESTOCK STEWART, Deputy Surgeon-General. Office of the Sanitary Commissioner with the Government of India, BOMBAY, 1 8th November, 1876. The latest advices show that cholera is widely spread over Southern India; some districts are suffering more than others, but, with the ex- ception of the North-eastern portion adjoining Orissa, the whole of the Madras Presidency is more or less under the influence of a cholera epidemic. No doubt every portion of the epidemic area is not suffering from the disease, or will every portion suffer, even in these districts, where it may oe most prevalent. In even the severest epidemics the disease is never universal, but is localized in a comparatively small proportion of the towns and villages. So long, however, as the epidemic influence lasts it is im- possible to say what places may be attacked. Cholera may appear in any one of them without the slightest warning. Experience shows that the month of November is one in which cholera is frequently active in the South of India, and any such activity, when manifested in epidemic movement, is attended with danger. Taking these facts into consideration, and remembering also that per- sons new to the country are more than ordinarily prone to attack, I am strongly of opinion that his Royal Highness the Prince of Wales can- not visit the Madras Presidency at present without more than ordinary risk. This may be regarded as an alarmist's view of the question. Cholera, it may be said, is always to be found in India, and a few cases more than usual are of no importance a few isolated cases would be of no importance, but wide-spread epidemic, such as now exists, is of great importance. What epidemic prevalence means may be appreciated igg from the fact, that while in 1874, a singularly favorable year, the num- ber of deaths from cholera registered in the whole Madras Presidency was only 313, in 1866, an epidemic year, the number was very nearly 200,000 ! What is likely to be the further course of the epidemic ? Will it increase, or will it rapidly diminish ? Appearances are not promising. Coming after a period of almost complete absence of the disease, I fear it is more likely to go on than abate, and to continue severe, more es- pecially in the more southern districts, during the whole cold season. But on this point no positive opinion can be given j all that can be done is to watch the returns and be guided accordingly. So long as epidemic influence continues, and for ten days after its cessation, it would not be safe for H.R.H. to visit any affected district. I have asked the Sanitary Commissioners of Madras to supply me by telegram with the most recent weekly returns, and I shall communi- cate all the facts to Dr. Fayrer, along with my opinion on them, so that he may be able to judge when the circumstances in respect to cholera are such as would warrant His Royal Highness visiting the Madras Presidency. J. W. M. CUNNIKGHAM, Sanitary Commissioner with the Government of India. P.S. I may add, that though the epidemic has covered a great part of Northern as well as Southern India, there is every reason to believe that it will not interfere with His Royal Highness' move- ments in the North-west. For the time, cholera is in abeyance there, and is not likely to reappear in that quarter till the Spring. From DR. KYNSEY, P.M.O. Civil Department, Ceylon. FARIELAND, KANDY, November. MY DEAR DR. FAYRER, I am glad to say Kandy is healthy. There have been no fresh cases of cholera. I shall see you to-morrow, and you may depend upon being informed if anything occurs. Believe me, very truly yours, W. R. KYNSEY. 20C GOVERNMENT HOUSE, BOMBAY, 6th March, 1876. MY DEAR DR. FAYRER, With a view to affording you information on a matter connected with your present onerous charge, I write to tell you that a case of modified small-pox has declared itself in this house in Captain W , A.D.C. to the Governor. The eruption only appeared yesterday, but the case, though a mild one, is quite distinctive. It is, however, the only one which has occurred within the limits of my charge. You are doubtless fully informed as to the state of things in Bombay generally, but I have thought it right to make you aware of this particular case, as it might possibly in some degree influence your future course. Captain W has not been near Malabar Point for a considerable time past. Very truly yours, C. S. CLOSE, Surgeon to H.E. the Governor of Bombay. From DR. W. G. HUNTER, Principal of the Medical College, Bombay. "THE BREACH," BOMBAY, 1st March, 1876. MY DEAR FAYRER, I received your note last evening. The reports which have reached you regarding the outbreak of small-pox in this place, are, I am much afraid, rather under than over-stated. We are having, I regret much to state, the most severe epidemic of the disease which has visited us for many years. Government have recognised the severity of the outbreak, and have invested the Municipal Commissioners with extraordinary powers to meet it. Yesterday it broke out in the fleet. Under these circumstances I quite agree with you in thinking it highly undesirable that H.R.H. should stop even for a night in the place, and I would strongly advise H.R.H. being taken straight on board the Serapis, and putting to sea without delay. In order further to reduce the risk, it is very desirable that the public should be kept in ignorance of the time H.R.H. is likely to arrive at the station. Excuse a hurried note ; I write to save post. Ever yours, W. G. HUNTER. H.M.S. "SERAPIS," PORTSMOUTH, nth May, 1876. SIR, His Royal Highness the Prince of Wales' expedition to India having now terminated by the return of H.M.S. Serapis to Portsmouth, I desire on relinquishing my charge, to express to you officially, my thanks for the excellent medical and sanitary arrangements provided for the preservation of the health of His Royal Highness, the members of the suite, and the servants, whilst on board ship. Their value has been manifested by the good health enjoyed by all during the time His Royal Highness and suite have been on board. I avail myself of this opportunity to acknowledge the obligations I have been under to all the medical officers of H.M.S. Serapis, for their kind and prompt assistance at all times when required in regard to any matter connected with my own especial charge, and for the very friendly and cordial spirit in which they at all times co-operated with me. The continued good health and sanitary comfort of the Prince of Wales and his suite, may be very largely attributed to their judgment, and this I venture to point out was most conspicuously obvious in the preservation of H.M.S. Serapis from the infection of small-pox when she lay in Bombay Harbour awaiting His Royal Highness' arrival, at a time when the disease was raging in Bombay, and affecting the crews of the ships in harbour. It is not too much to say that to the complete and judicious quarantine and sanitary measures adopted by the Hon. Capt. Glyn, C.B., C.S.I., at the suggestion of Dr. Watson, and the Medical Officers, it is due that H.M.S. Serapis was preserved from infection, and that His Royal Highness was enabled to embark with comparatively little risk. The occurrence of severe epidemic small-pox at the time of the Prince of Wales' arrival and embarkation at Bombay, was a subject of great anxiety to me, as His Royal Highness* physician, and I cannot too strongly express my obligation to these officers for the very satisfactory way in which the risk was reduced to a minimum. I have to thank Drs. Watson and Wood for valuable counsel on several occasions in regard to His Royal Highness, or various members of the suite, or servants. I have been very fortunate in the co-operation of my brother Medical Officers of the Navy, and it is simple justice to say that to their efforts the sanitary success of His Royal Highness' expedition as far as H.M.S. Serapis is concerned is largely due. His Royal Highness has been graciously pleased to signify his approval of the opinion I have above expressed, and to command that it should be conveyed to you. I have the honour to be, Your most obedient servant, J. FAYRER, M.D., Surgeon-General, Physician to His Royal Highness the Prince of Wales, K.G. To Sir A. Armstrong, K.C.B., Director-General of the Medical Department of the Navy. 202 ADMIRALTY, S.W., 1 2th May, 1876. SIR, I have the honor to acknowledge the receipt of your letter of yesterday's date, forwarded by command of His Royal Highness the Prince of Wales, and conveying, in such flattering terms, your appreciation of the services rendered by Fleet Surgeon Dr. Watson, and the other medical officers of H.M.S. Serapis, during the recent visit to India, and to express the great pleasure I have derived from its perusal, and the gratification it will afford me to communicate its contents to my Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty. I have the honor to be, sir, Yours obediently, A. ARMSTRONG, Director-General. Surgeon -General Sir Joseph Fayrer, M.D., K.C.S.I. CHOLERA MORTALITY IN 1874-1875. CHOLERA MORTALITY FOR ALL INDIA, From the Sanitary Commissioner's Report. CHOLERA DEATHS. 1875. 1874. Bengal Proper and Assam 116,606 . 73,354 N. W. Provinces 41,106 . 6,396 Oudh 23,321 . 68 Punjab 6,246 Central Provinces !4>643 Berar 22,465 British Burmah ... ... ... ... 761 Madras and Mysore 97>5i Bombay 47*573 Rajpootana, Hyderabad, and Central India 14,649 78 14 2 960 313 37 203 MEMO. ON ADEN. It has occurred to me that advantage may be taken of the occasion of of His Royal Highness the Prince of Wales' visit to Aden to point out certain (defects which might be remedied, much to the advantage of the residents of that station, and to the consequent benefit of all concerned. The following are the subjects to which I would draw attention : 1 . Defective water supply. 2. Defective supply of vegetables. 3. The want of means of rational amusement for European officers and men. 4. The want of a station library, kept up in a condition to offer intellectual recreation and improvement for the European officers and men. With reference to the first want, that of fresh water, I would remark that the actual supply is derived from three sources. 1. Condensation of sea-water. 2. Occasional rainfalls collected in the tanks an uncertain and precarious source of supply. 3. Water from a small stream which is more or less impregnated with saline matter by flowing some miles through sand, after it leaves the main stream, a distance of some miles. To improve the water supply it would be necessary to undertake certain engineering works for the conveyance of pure water in sufficient quantities from the main stream, and freed from such impregnation as it is now subject to. There can be little doubt that this might be effected at a cost which would be amply repaid by the beneficial results to the health of the population. Indeed, it is impossible that, without a due supply of pure water, any continuous or lasting improvement or progress can be made in a station which has otherwise advanced wonder- fully, and is destined to be of still greater importance. The supply by condensation is a continual source of increasing expenditure for the coal that is necessary, and though the water so produced is pure, it is not so conducive to health as the water of rivers or springs, which contains a certain amount of mineral substances necessary to the due nutrition of the creatures drinking it. As to the tanks, the water they collect is good, but, like the water of condensation, defective in the proper amount of mineral impregnation. It is uncertain, and in no way calculated to meet the wants of a rapidly developing station. It is worthy of consideration whether a pure stream of water might not be brought, as suggested, from the stream alluded to. The question of the increased supply of vegetable green food follows on the above. There is no reason to doubt that, with water, the supply of vegetables might be rapidly extended. The soil is adapted to produce many of the solanaceous and other vegetables common in India, and there would be no difficulty in establishing gardens equal to the supply of the troops. The rest of the population might be supplied by private enterprise, which would 2O4 rapidly increase. With an ample supply of water there would be no lack of vegetable cultivation. The question is, can such a supply of water be procured, and at a cost that would remunerate 1 ? I believe it could, and the question is one of so much interest to the Government that an inquiry might be instituted. The troops and inhabitants of Aden, though wonderfully free from zymotic disease, suffer from scurvy and depression of nervous energy. This is the natural result of the defective conditions above described, and are remediable evils which should not continue. The duration of the stay of native troops is, I believe, wisely limited to two years; that of the Europeans should be made as brief as possible. On a barren volcanic rock like Aden, all that can tend to amuse and divert the mind from the impression of desolation that everywhere meets the eye, should be encouraged, and rational means for so doing should be placed at the disposal of those whose fate it is to serve there. I would suggest that a theatre and racquet-court for men and officers be built ; that a certain number of sailing boats be main- tained, partly, at all events, at the cost of Government, and that a well- supplied station library, kept up and managed by some local official, and not dependent on the regiments that come and go, should be main- tained, and that there should be a capacious public room, in which periodicals and other literature might be available, and where some of the advantages of a club might be given to the officers and men, who have to spend part of their lives on the crater of an extinct volcano ! Aden is a place of great importance. What Gibraltar and Malta are, Aden already is, or will be, but to enable it to be so the ordinary conditions of mens sana in corppre sano must be forthcoming, and this, I feel constrained to say, is not the case at present. 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