BANCROFT LIBRARY RORAIMA AND BRITISH GUIANA. ROEAIMA BRITISH GUIANA WITH A GLANCE AT BERMUDA, THE WEST h\l)IES, AND THE SPANISH MAIN. o^^^ .V^ ^ BY J. W. BODDAM-WHETHAM, i^^5- "^ AUTHOU OF PEARLS OF THE PACIFIC,' 'ACROSS CENTRAL AMERICA,' ETC. VIEW ON THE CUIilPUNG RIVER. LONDON: HURST AND BLACKETT, PUBLISHERS, 13 GREAT M.\RLBOEOUGH STREET. 1879. All Rightx resented. PREFACE. " T "T TILL no one explore Roraima, and bring us V V back the tidings which it has been waiting these thousands of years to give us? One of the greatest marvels and mysteries of the earth lies on the outskirt of one of our own colonies — only not within . , British territory because the frontier line has been bent in at the spot, on purpose, it would seem, to -^ shut it out — and we leave the mystery unsolved, the marvel uncared for." IT The above words, together with a general outline of ^the wonders to be explored, appeared in a number of C- the "Spectator" for April, 1877, and aroused my in- "ZJterest to such a degree that I thought by day and dreamt by night of Roraima, <• After reading Mr Brown's delightful book on British ' X Guiana — which was referred to in the article from < which I have quoted — I made up my mind to visit — sthat colony, with the hope of at all events seeing Roraima and exploring its floral treasures, even if I should be unable to make its ascent. The summit, Mr Brown says, is inaccessible, except by means of balloons. " According to the traditions of the Lidians" says Sir Robert Schomburgh, " the vi Preface. summits of the flat-topped gigantic sandstone walls, which never can be reached by human beings, contain large lakes, full of remarkable fish-like dolphins, and continually encircled by gigantic white eagles — their eternal warders." Full then, of curiosity, with a great longing to be- come better acquainted with this mysterious region, I arranged my plans so as to arrive in Demerara about January, paying a flying visit on my way to Bermuda via New York, and so on through the West Indies to Guiana. Fortune favoured me, inasmuch as on my arrival at Georgetown, Demerara, I found that the Colonial government was about to send an expedition to Roraima, for the purpose of trying to reach the top of that mountain. With great kindness, the authori- ties permitted me to accompany it, and I cannot let this occasion pass without expressing my sincere thanks for the opportunity thus afforded me of visiting the interior of British Guiana. The following rough record of my journey is but a poor return for the many attentions shown me, but it may add its mite in attracting the notice of travellers to a country not often visited for pleasure. J.W.B.W. CONTENTS. CHAPTER L OtJTWARD BOUND— THE ' CANIMA. ' — A ROUGH VOYAGE— FIRST VIEW OF BERMUDA — COASTING — IRELAND ISLE — COMMIS- SIONERS' HOUSE— THE SOUND — HAMILTON— LANDING— AN INDIA- RUBBER TREE— A BILL OF FARE— THE REGISTER — HAMILTON HOTEL — PAPAWS— A SUGGESTION . . . .1 CHAPTER II. A WHITE TOWN— A CEDAR AVENUE— THE " DUCKING-STOOL" — SEA ENCROACHMENTS — FERN PITS— SPANISH POINT — FAIRY- LAND—THE ISLAND ROAD— AMUSEMENTS — A PAPER HUNT — REEFS— SEA CUCUMBERS — THE SOUTH WIND — SAND-HILLS — BOILERS— ARCHITECTURE — MUSEUM — A RARE SPIDER . 8 CHAPTER HI. BEEMUDIAN ROADS— NIGHT BLOOMING CACTUS — A NATURAL CURI- OSITY — EXPORTS AND IMPORTS— THE COLOURED NATIVE — HARRINGTON SOUND— DEVIL'S HEAD— NEPTUNE'S GROTTO — A SALT-WATER FOUNTAIN — A DIABOLICAL PLOT— THE CALABASH — MEMENTOES OF TOM MOORE — WALSINGHAM — THE CAUSEWAY — A NEW FEATURE IN CULTIVATION — ST. GEORGE'S . 18 viii Contents. CHAPTER IV. ST. THOMAS — FOKTS — BOATMEN — DIVERS — HOTEL BU COMMERCE — MAIN STREET — STABLE COMPANIONS— AMAZONS — A NEGRO POLITICIAN— DANISH RULE— A SORRY SIGHT JUSTICE IN THE VIRGIN GROUP— A DAY's DOINGS— KRUMM BAY — CHA-CHAS — AN OCEAN pawnbroker's — LANDSLIP— ALOE — A CURE FOR LUNG DISEASES — UP THE MOUNTAIN . . . .27 CHAPTER V. TO SANTA CRUZ — BASSIN— A DOG-HOUSE — FRUIT STEALING "THIBET" TREES— GREEN HERONS — PRETTY SCENERY — -SVEST END — SANTA CRUZ V. ST. THOMAS — CENTRAL ROAD — STEAM PLOUGH— A CENTRAL FACTORY— OPPOSITION— WAGES — CHIL- DREN — HOME AGAIN — RE-EMBARKATION— OFFICIAL DELAY 39 CHAPTER VL SABA — CRATER COLONIES— ST. EUSTATIDS— ST. KITTS — BRIMSTONE HILL — MOUNT MISERY — AN ATMOSPHERE— BASSETERRE — CROWN COLONY SYSTEM— THE NARROWS — NEVIS— REDONDO—MONTSER- RAT— ANTIGUA — ITS HARBOUR BY MOONLIGHT — GUADELOUPE — MARIEG ALANTE — DOMINICA — CARIES — ISLAND SCENERY— RO- SEAU— FROGS . . . . . . .49 CHAPTER Vn. MARTINIQUE — ST. PIERRE — MUSCULAR FEMALES— FEVER— GRANDE RUE — TAMARIND AVENUE— SAVANNA— SKETCHING FROM NATl'RE — BOTANICAL GARDENS— MOUNTAIN CABBAGE PALM — THE GREAT TROPICAL FALLACY — WATERFALL — THE LAKE — MUSEUM — A FORSAKEN GARDEN— TO MORNE ROUGE — COUNTRY LIFE — THE CALVARY . . . . . . .57 CTIAI^TER VTH. A GALA DAY — COSTUMES— CINQ-CLOUS— BATTERIE D'ESNOTY— A CASSAVA FARM — PANDEMONIUM — PREPARATION OF CASSAVA — A "catch" — COUNTRY SCENES — FRESH ATMOSPHERE — A STORM— RAINBOWS— FOREST SCENES— TROPICAL VEGETATION — NOON-DAY HALT . . . . . . G9 Contents. ix CHAPTER IX. A CURIO HUNTER — FORT DE FRANCE— BATHS OF DIDIER — DIA- MOND ROCK — F1.YING-PISH TRADE— BARBADOES — CARLISLE BAY — HOAD'S— TRAFALGAR SQUARE — THE ICEHOUSE — ST. ANN'S — SCOTLAND — CONFEDERATION — COAST OF TOBAGO — BIRDS OP TOBAGO— FAUNA OF THE WEST INDIES . . .82 CHAPTER X. TO TRINIDAD — BOCA DE MONOS — GULF OP PARIA — EORT OP SP2VIN — SAVANNA— BOTANIC GARDENS — A HINDOO VILLAGE— STAPLES —A CACAO PLANTATION — THE BLUE BASIN— FALLS OP MARACAS ^THE PITCH LAKE — START FOR THE ORINOCO . . 92 CHAPTER XL THE " HEROE DE ABRIL" — APPROACHING THE ORINOCO— MOUTHS OP THE ORINOCO— THE MACAREO CHANNEL— MACAWS — WATER LABYRINTHS — GUARANOS — INDIAN CAMP— TROUPIALS — BAR- RANCAS — LITTLE VENICE— LAS TABLAS — CARATAL GOLD MINES — VENEZUELA — THE CARONI — ROCKS OP PORPHYRY — CIUDAD BOLIVAR— PIEDRA MEDIO— ANGOSTURA BITTERS — UPPER ORI- NOCO—FEATHER HAMMOCKS .... 102 CHAPTER XII. TO GEORGETOWN — FIRST IMPRESSIONS— BATHS— A DROUGHT — STREET SCENES— AN OIL PAINTING — VICTORIA REGIA — THE CANNON-BALL TREE — SWIZZLES — A PROVISION OF NATURE — DIGNITY BALLS — CALLING CRABS — FOUR EYES— KISKIDIS — FEATHER TRADE — COLOURED SUGAR— A VERSATILE AMERICAN — DEDIERARA CRYSTALS— PHYSALIA — OFF TO RORAIMA . 120 CHAPTER Xni. TO THE ESSEQUIBO — BARTICA GROVE — THE PENAL SETTLEMENT — CUYUNI RIVER— EL DORADO— RALEIGH's CREDULITY — TENT BOATS — CAMP IN SHED — CARIA ISLAND — AN ARCHIPELAGO — KOSTERBROKE FALLS — ASCENT OF CATARACTS — WARIMAMBO RAPIDS— MORA — A NEW YEAST .... 135 X Contents. CHAPTER XIV. A NEW HOUR— MARABUNTAS -SINKING OF THE BURA — ROCK FOR- MATIONS— ARA HUMMING-BIRD — FALLS OF YANINZAEC — JABIRU — CABUNI RIVER — SHOOTING FISH WITH ARROWS — PACU — AN INDIAN CAMP— GREEN-HEART BREAD — INDIAN LIFE — A PAIWORIE FEAST — DUCKLARS — CURRI-CURRIS — SUN BIT- TERNS ........ 149 CHAPTER XV. THE BUSH-MASTER— LABARRI — CAMOODI — WOOD ANTS — TURESIE — A PACU HUNT — CASHEW TREE — WOODSKINS—PIRAI — SINGING FISH — INDIAN DANCE — BEADS — FASHION — A RIVER BEND — VIEW OF HILLS — SNIPE — INDIAN MYTHOLOGY— WANT A DOG — TABLE MOUNTAINS — MERUME RIVER— COURSE OP THE MAZARUNI 162 CHAPTER XVI. A FISH HUNT ON LAND— STINGRAYS— THE " CARIBISCE " — TABLE MOUNTAINS— A RIVER GOD— DESERTED VILLAGES— CURIPUNG RIVER — INDIAN ENCAMPMENT — INDIAN SUPERSTITION — THE " PEAIMAN " — DURAQUA — EATING CUSTOMS— ARRIVAL OP LANCE- MAN — TRIANGLE OF MOUNTAINS — MACREBAH FALLS — START ACROSS COUNTRY . . . , . . 17o CHAPTER XVH. A "DACANA-BALLI "—STRANGE ROCKS— A ROOT PATH— INDIAN SUPERSTITION — THE -CRY OF A LOST SOUL — NEW CARRIERS — A FEATHERED COSTUME— CURIOUS TREES — COCK OF THE ROCKS — CAMP ON THE LAMUNG— A BOA-CONSTRICTOR — STENAPARU RIVER — THE CARIAPU— A BURNING TREE — THE MAZARUNI— CAPTAIN DAVID — PICTURESQUE CAMP ..... 189 CHAPTER XVHI. AMATEUR BARBEllS — AN INDIAN EXQUISITE —MOUTH OF THE CAKO — CAMP ON VENEZUELAN TERRITORY — TRUMPETERS — MOUNT CAROUTA— REASON FOR ASCENDING THE CAKO— MARIMA— INDIAN GUIDE — GLIMPSE OF RORAIMA — THE ARUPARU CREEK — COTINGAS — SAVANNA INDIANS— A WATER LABYRINTH— AMUSING SCENES— END OP NAVIGATION .... 204 Contents. xi CHAPTER XIX. OLD granny's description OF THE PATH TO RORAIMA — TREE- BRIDGES — MONKEY-POTS — BUSH-ROPES — CASHEW COTTAGE — SAVANNA INDIANS — MAZAEUNI— MAGNIFICENT PALMS — BIXA ORELLANA— COTENGA RIVER — FALLS OP OOKOOTAWIK — VIL- LAGE OF MENAPARUTI — MARIKA RIVER — THE SORCERER AGAIN ........ 21(3 CHAPTER XX. SAVANNA — RORAIMA AT LAST — APPEARANCE OF THE MOUNTAIN — WATERFALLS— HEAD OF THE QUATING— TRIBUTARIES OF THE AMAZON AND THE ESSEQUIBO — KUKENAM — ITS FALL AND RIVER — THE "PEAIMAN" again — FALLS OF EKIBIAPU— A CELEBRA- TION. ........ 227 CHAPTER XXI. CLUSIAS — A MELASTOMA— FOREST TREES— FRESH CAMP — A FLORAL TREASURY — BRAZILIAN MOUNTAINS— A COLOUR SYMPHONY — RORAIMA'S EASTERN WALL — NO MEANS OF ASCENT — GOAT- SUCKERS—SOUTHERN WALL OF RORAIMA— FALL OP KAMAIBA — KUKENAM FALLS — WESTERN SIDE OF RORAIMA— REASONS FOR RETURNING HOME — SAVANNA FIRE — A STORM . . 232 CHAPTER XXII. INDIAN VISITORS — A REWARD TO ASCEND RORAIMA — LAST VIEW OF RORAIMA — HOW TO ASCEND RORAIMA — MENAPARUTI — A HUNTING PARTY — CASSIREE — INDIAN PASTIMES — RUMOURS OF WAR — AMARYLLIS— QUATING RIVER — CASHEW COTTAGE AGAIN — THE AEAPARU — FALSE ALARMS —OLD FRIENDS . . 24-5 CHAPTER XXIII. A PAINFUL WALK— bird's NEST FERNS— DOWN THE CURIPUNG— VOICES OF THE NIGHT — AN INDIAN FAMILY— A QUICK JOURNEY — SHOOTING THE FALLS — TIMBER SHOOTS IN CANADA— A LOST CHANNEL— ANTICIPATIONS OF A FEAST— CAPSIZE— A SWIM FOR LIFE — TEBUCU FALLS— HOME AGAIN . . . 25o xii Contents. CHAPTER XXIV. FROM SOURCE TO SEA— END OF THE DROUGHT — D'URBAN — A RACE MEETING — ENTHUSIASTIC COLOURED FOLK — ROYAL MAIL STEAMERS — VENEZUELANS — CARIBE — CARUPANO — CUMANA — AN EARTHQUAKE CENTRE— BARCELONA— LLANURAS—LLANERO — PLAINS — LA SILLA ...... 265 CHAPTER XXV. VIEW OP LA GUAIRA — PROJECTS IN VENEZUELA — LANDING— INDIAN PATH TO CARACAS — BRILLIANT BEETLES— VIEW FROM CERRO DE AVILA — DESCENT TO CITY — CLIMATE — AN EARTHQUAKE ALARM — SAD ASPECT OF THE CITY — MYSTERIOUS POWER OF THE MOON — PERIHELION AND PESTILENCE .... 275 CHAPTER XXVI. EL PASEO— HISTORICAL RENOWN— RESERVOIRS— VIEW OF CARxVCAS — RIVERS OF PARADISE — COMPARED WITH MEXICO — PLAZA DE BOLIVAR— STATUE OF THE LIBERATOR— ENTRY INTO CARACAS— FUNERAL CORTEGE — A NATION'S GRATITUDE . '287 CHAPTER XXVII. THE LEGISLATIVE PALACE — A COMPLIMENT TO THE CAPITOL AT WASHINGTON — PLAZA DE GUZMAN BLANCO— THE UNIVERSITY — SAN FELIPE — REMINISCENCES OF HUMBOLDT — A STRANGE DISEASE — PROJECTS IN VENEZUELA — EARTHQUAKE AT CUA — THE LEGISLATURE — LEAVE FOR LA GUAIRA . . 295 CHAPTER XXVIII. CARRIAGE ROAD BETWEEN CARACAS AND LA GUAIRA — THE " COW- TREE"— A VENEZUELAN SUCCESS — FRENCH MAIL STEAMER- LEAVE LA GUAIRA— PUERTO CABELLO— GOLFO TRISTE— MILI- TARY HISTORY— CURACOA— GULP OF MARACAIBO — SAVANILLA — EMERALD MINES— CLOUDS OP BUTTERFLIES— LEAVE SA- VANILLA ....... 305 Contents. xiii CHAPTER XXIX. TREASURES OP THE DEEP— THE SAN PEDRO ALCANTARA— MAR- GARITA — SEEKING LOST TREASURE— OCEAN MINING— NAVY BAY, COLON— INTER-OCEANIC COMMUNICATION— GOMARA'S PROJECT — nelson's scheme— THE NICARAGUA ROUTE— THE ACANTI- TUPISI ROUTE— INTERNATIONAL COMMISSION . .313 CHAPTER XXX. COLON— DEPARTURE — COLUMBUS AND MR. ASPINWALL— RAILWAY ACROSS ISTHMUS— SCENES ON THE ISTHMUS— TELEGRAPH POSTS — HOLY GHOST ORCHID — PANAMA HATS— PARADISE— MOUNT ANCON — PACIFIC MAIL STEAMER— ON THE WHARF AT PANAMA — PANAMA FROM THE SEA— LAST LOOKS . . . 323 APPENDIX ....... 337 RO RAIMA. CHAPTER I. OUTWARD BOUND— THE ' CANIMA ' — A ROUGH VOYAGE— FIRST VIEW OF BERMUDA — COASTING — IRELAND ISLE — COMMIS- SIONERS' HOUSE — THE SOUND — HAMILTON— LANDING — AN INDIA- RUBBER TREE— A BILL OP FARE— THE REGISTER — HAMILTON HOTEL — PAPAWS — A SUGGESTION. " Under the eaves of a southern sky, Where the cloud roof bends to the ocean floor Hid in lonely seas, the Bermoothes lie — An emerald cluster that Neptune bore Away from the covetous earth god's sight, And placed in a setting of sapphire light." " T T TELL, if we are going to a warmer tem- V V perature than this, few of us will return,' was the remark made by one of the passengers on board the little steamer ' Canima,' which was rolling heavily in a perfectly smooth sea, past Staten Island on her way from New York to Bermuda. Tt was the month of November, but the sun was as hot and the sky as brassy as though it had been August. On shore we could see preparations being made for cricket, lawn-tennis, and archery ; and there were we B 2 Roraima. bound for a semi-tropical climate. It was one of those days with which the clerk of the weather favours New York in early spring, and sometimes even when the Indian summer is supposed to have ended. I have said that the vessel rolled heavily, even in a smooth sea, and we were naturally anxious to know what she would do in rough weather ; some thought that she would turn over altogether, others, that she would regain her equilibrium and keep it, but this latter idea was soon proved to be a fallacy, as the wretched ship had no more centre of gravity than a cherub. Hardly had we entered the open sea when a change in the weather occurred. The sky was overcast, the waves assumed a threatening aspect, a cold drizzle set in, and general discomfort prevailed. How gay and lively the scene on deck was when we started ! how dull and quiet it suddenly became ! just as I was imitating the example of the rest of the passengers by retreating to my cabin, an old gentle- man who had made the passage to Bermuda thirty-two times spoke to me of "The old green glamour of the glancing sea." As I did not feel much inclined to listen to poetry, I merely remarked that I thought Lucretius was right when he declared that " the sea was meant to be looked at from shore," and then withdrew. A less enjoyable voyage could not be imagined, and what with a head wind, rainy weather, the gulf- stream in a state of extra-roughness, and French- Canadian stewards, whose dirty appearance made the greasy food less appetising, if possible, than it other- wise would have been, a more ghostly, half-starved lot of travellers never arrived at their destination. Bermuda. 3 How many lines of steamers there are whose owners trade on the old Sanscrit proverb which they might adopt as their motto, '' The river is crossed, and the bridge is forgotten." Fortunately the passage only lasted four d.iys, the advertised time being seventy-two hours; and glad indeed were we when we had passed through the narrow reef-channel, and were coasting along the western side of the main island of the Bermudas, and within the formidable chain of breakers which sur- rounds them. The first view of the island is disappointing, as the low hills have a barren and desolate appearance, and the plain white cottages which are dotted about here and there stand in bare, uncultivated spots. Lower down, however, as we approach the central portion, the face of the island brightens. Old acquaintances of Bermuda point out the position of Harrington Sound, which they declare — and rightly as we after- wards thought — to be the most lovely part of the island ; but from the vessel all we can see is a narrow inlet which one could almost jump across. The long lines of roofs which sparkle so in the sun on the hill yonder are the barracks, and the red coats of the soldiers make pleasant bits of colour, which contrast well with the gleaming sand and the deep green cedar-nooks in which the white houses nestle. Farther on we pass Government House and the signal station, from which the arrival of the steamer has long been signalled ; then Clarence Hill — Admi- ralty House — is left behind, and we round Spanish Point, with Ireland and other islands forming a semi- circle on our right. On Ireland Island is to be seen B 2 4 Roraima. as everybody knows, the fiimous floating dock which was towed from England in 1869. At another time, this would probably have been the centre of attraction, but the eyes of our sea-worn passengers were directed to a fine large building well situated at the extremity of that island. " What a splendid hotel!" said one, and " How delightfully cool it must be there !" said another. It proved to be the " Commissioner's House," now used as military quarters. The history of this building is rather singular. A certain Treasury clerk was appointed " Commissioner " in charge of the dockyard, and, not being satisfied with the house given him to occupy, received permission from the Home Government to spend ^12,000 in building a new one. This concession appears to have turned his head, for the house gradually assumed the dimensions of a palace; marble chimney-pieces were erected, and stabling built for a dozen horses, and this in a country where fire-places were hardly necessary, and where, at that time, horses were useless. Marble baths and other trifles ran up ihe bill to over _^6o,ooo. The gentleman for whom this expense was incurred never occupied the house, as he went mad, and the oflice of " Commissioner " was soon dispensed with. Whilst an old resident was telling us this story, we had entered the Great Sound, and we found ourselves in a pretty land-locked harbour, on whose wonderfully clear blue water floated numerous fairy islets — a scene which reminded us of the words of Moore : " The morn was lovely, every wave was still ■When the first perfume ot a cedar-hill Sweetly awakened us, and with smiling charms The tairy harbour wooed us to its arms." The Landing at Hamilton. 5 Through these green islands we wound our way care- fully, one channel being particularly narrow and danger- ous. Beneath its transparent waters we could dis- tinguish an old cannon ; and then a sudden turn brought us into the pretty port of Hamilton, where we dropped anchor close to the shore. But being on shore and only near it are very different things, and it seemed hours to us hungry mortals before the vessel was gradually dragged to within forty feet of the quay. Nearer we could not get, on account of a shallow. Now to land in boats appeared too ridiculous for such a short distance, but no other means were visible. A bridge lowered by a crane would have landed us all in a few minutes, but there was no appearance of such a thing. Old-fashioned Bermuda wanted no new-fangled notions, so we had to abide our time and wait until a bridge had been manufactured in the following way : Ropes were thrown from the vessel and fastened to the outer ends of long beams, which were hauled on board, their other extremities resting on shore. Then a number of grinning darkies strided these beams, and lashed cross-bars to them ; planks were laid on the frame, and over these we walked on to the quay. There were only two passengers besides myself for the Hamilton Hotel, and these were a very charming old lady and her son — a young physician from Boston — who had been advised to spend the winter abroad. A short walk brought us to the hotel, a good-sized, comfortable building, commanding a fine view of the harbour and port of the town. On our way up, we passed a splendid specimen of the india-rubber tree, whose luxuriant growth almost hid the broad veranda'd cottage behind it. Speaking of this tree, Mark Twain 6 Roraima. says that, when he saw it, it was "out of season, pos- sibly as there were no shoes on it, nor suspenders, nor anything a person would properly expect to find there.' This tree was the first sign of tropical vegetation that we had seen, which fact had rather surprised us, as on the cover of a " bill of fare," which had been shown to us in New York, was a picture of the Hamilton Hotel, with an avenue of palms and bananas leading up to it. The fine palms — mountain cabbage — we afterwards discovered about half-a-mile off, and not even within sight of the hotel. But one cannot expect to find everything one sees, even on a bill of fare. We were informed by the clerk that we were the first visitors of the season. " But somebody else is here," said I, pointing to a solitary name in the visitor's register. " Oh," said he, " that's me ;" and forthwith assigned us our rooms. And now let me say a word about this hotel, which is notorious for having prevented many strangers from visiting Bermuda, and others who would have liked to return, from coming back. The rooms are simply but comfortably furnished, the situation is good, and the grounds might be very prettily laid out. The whole cause of discontent with the hotel has hitherto — that is, up to the winter of 1877-78 — been with the management. The house had been leased to an American, a pleasant, agreeable person, but without the least idea of managing an hotel. People did not come to Bermuda for third-rate American hotel dinners, but there they got them, until they could stand it no longer. It was useless to speak to the manager ; no redress was obtainable. Everything was served at once ; an armada of little white dishes was placed before you, Hamilton Hotel. 7 in one a dry cutlet, in another a few dried pellets of fried potatoes, peas like buckshot, boiled potatoes like cannon-balls; here an inch of tough chicken, there a slice of beef, baked until all its proper juices had been extracted ; heavy pumpkin pies, tea and coffee quite undrinkable, butter that no one could touch ; such, with but little variation, were the component parts of the three meals. Even the provisions of Nature were not made as available as they might have been. In the garden were two or three fine papaw trees, whose insipid green fruit was sometimes given to us as a delicious West-Indian preserve. It is said that the leaves of this tree, if rubbed on a bull's hide, would immediately convert it into tender beefsteak ; now our meat was always of the toughest description. Day after day I used to see my two friends, fresh from their home in Boston, rise from the table without having touched anything, and I felt quite ashamed of our English colony. Had the proprietor been English, I think I should have run away. As it was, we limited our visit to a fortnight instead of a month, the doctor accompanying me to the West Indies, whilst his mother returned home. It seems a pity that quiet Bermuda should not attract more visitors — ilmericans especially — than it does. A well-kept hotel there would be very welcome to many who now winter in Florida or Nassau (Bahamas). The island is more interesting than either of those places, and equally picturesque ; and I have no doubt that visitors, when they left, would carry away as pleasant recollections as they would probably leave behind. CHAPTER II. A WHITE TOWN— A CEDAR AVENUE— THE " DUCKING-STOOL" — SEA ENCROACHMENTS — FERN PITS— SPANISH POINT — FAIRY- LAND—THE ISLAND ROAD— AMUSEMENTS — A PAPER HUNT — REEFS— SEA CUCUMBERS— THE SOUTH WIND — SAND-HILLS — BOILERS— ARCHITECTURE — MUSEUM — A RARE SPIDER. " Pleasant it was when the woods were green, And the winds were soft and low, To lie amid some sylvan scene, Where the long drooping boughs between, Shadows dark and sunlight sheen Alternate come and go." LONGFELLOW. WHEN you first look out of your window over the town, you imagine that there has been a slight snow-storm, so gleaming white are the roofs of all the houses. But you soon learn that, owing to the absence of springs and streams, the roofs are white- washed, and kept scrupulously clean, as the rain-water is thence conducted into cisterns, from which it is drawn for use. The roads are white, the houses are whiter, and the roofs are whitest ; but what would otherwise be an unpleasant glare is modified by the foliage, which half conceals the houses, and by the green Venetian blinds, which shade all the windows. The " Ducking-Stool'* 9 Nearly every house has a garden, and passion- flowers, morning glory, and other vines creep up the pillars and over the piazzas in great profusion and brilliancy. " Pride of India " trees border the sides of the streets, but these fail to give the delicious shade which is obtained under the cedar avenue which lies on one side of the small public gardens. Here you can stroll in the heat of the day, protected from the sun by a green roof, and surrounded by roses,* heliotropes, lilies, great beds of geraniums, pomegranates, gorgeous blossoms of hybiscus, gladioli, and all sorts of lovely creepers. Then when the sun's rays have lost some of their power, you can prolong your walk along the winding road, past the pretty country church of Pem- broke, and leaving Mount Langton (Government House) on your right, behold at the bottom of a shady lane spreadeth a golden network, like a veil of gauze, stretching far and wide. That is the sea, and in a short half- hour you have crossed this part of the island. Better still is it to come here in the morning, and after a plunge in the deep blue water, sit on the "duck- ing stool," and meditate on the feelings of the poor wretches who, in days gone by, suffered the water punishment for witchcraft, sorcery, and other imaginary offences. A notice prohibits bathing on Government grounds, but down below the steep rocks there are plenty of nooks and hollows, sand-carpeted and as private as your own chamber. For myself, I never * Some magnificent roses are grown near Hamilton, and one gentleman informed me that he had over two hundred varieties thriving luxuriantly ; not the over-blooming, straggling plants, whose blossoms are coarse, ill- shaped, and of faded colour, so often seen in hot climates, but beautiful bright roses with thick, petals and rare symmetry of outline. 10 Eoraima. could make out where the Government property began or where it ended. On this north shore a delicious breeze tempers the heat of the sun, and it is enjoyment enough to look at and listen to the sea, to watch the men collecting the seaweed for their land, or to read, and consequently fall asleep. No one will disturb you ; there are no tramps in Bermuda, and your watch will still be going, even should you sleep for hours. To return to town two different ways are open to vou ; both are along the same sea-shore road, but lie in opposite directions ; the one leads to the north-east, until you branch off" to the right past the barracks ; the other — and the one we will take — runs south-west towards Admiralty House and Spanish Point. All along this road you cannot help noticing the encroachment of the sea, and you wonder how long it will be before the road on which you are walking becomes the edge of a craggy wall for the waves to beat against and undermine. Here truly does — " The hungry ocean gain Advantage on the kingdom of the shore." The hollowness of Bermuda is very remarkable, and in many places the cavernous ground gives forth very musical sounds when struck. As we proceed on our walk, we see but few signs of cultivation; here and there are strips of garden running up into the ubiquitous cedar bush, but most of the land is used for grazing, and very indifferent grazing, too. One peculiarity amongst the four footed animals is that they are nearly all black and white ; another is that they are all tethered ; everything seems Fairy Land. 11 at anchor in Bermuda, cattle, goats, pigs, donkeys, even the hens are not at Hberty. Occasionally one passes a deep well, originally dug out for the purpose of obtain- ing fresh water, but entirely lined with the lovely maiden-hair fern. This delicate species gives a special charm to the island, as it grows luxuriously on the walls and rocks, in caves and hollows, and drapes the numerous land-pits with its graceful fronds. Where the fern declines to grow, there the "life-plant" flourishes, and quickly covers up the bare places with its deep green, fleshy leaves. Of such vitality is this weed that a single leaf, if plucked and pinned to the wall, will live and send out shoots from its edges with perfect indifi^erence as to its changed abode. At Spanish Point the view across to Ireland Island is very picturesque, and one perfect horse-shoe bay, with white sandy shore, lingers a long time in the memory, not only on account of the peaceful scene of which it forms a part, but also for its own exquisite form. Near by is Fairy-land, well named, for it really is one of the most charming spots in Bermuda. The sea here runs far up into the island, forming a lake, with bays, islets, caves, isthmuses, and peninsulas. Just above one of the green bights stands a little nest called " Honeymoon Cottage," a gem of a place, where many a happy pair have passed the first week or two of their new life. The hall-door steps lead down to the bathing house, which, when I visited it, con- tained only one little shoe, but that worthy of Amphi- trite herself Leaving beautiful Underclifi^, our road now turns more inland, sometimes crossing a little hill, and some- times running through a swamp with high reeds and 1 2 Roraima. flags, and with its edges planted with potatoes and to- matoes. Now it curves through a grove, anon it winds past home -like cottages, whose black occupants grin with delight at seeing a stranger, curtsey, and wish him a pleasant walk ; then once more the sea is in view, pretty gardens line the road, life and activity betoken the neighbourhood of the wharf, and you are again in Hamilton. Have you enjoyed your walk ? I must not ask whether you have a good appetite for dinner ! There is no doubt that the scenery of Bermuda improves on acquaintance. At first sight the visitor will probably be disappointed with the flat appearance oi the island and the apparently few possibilities for the picturesque. But in a very short time he will discover that it is all hill and dale, on a minute scale, it is true, as the highest elevation hardly exceeds two hundred and fifty feet — but varied and even romantic. Take, for instance, the view from the Barrack Hill. Everywhere the coastland seems broken up in the most capricious manner. Deep bays, narrow pro- montories, and an infinite number of islands give to the sea the appearance of a series of silver lakes, which shine in the sun like the fragments of a broken mirror. The undulating country is clothed with cedar-bush, whose grey green is relieved here and there by the brilliant flush of the pink oleander and the white per- pendicular walls of a stone quarry. Afar ofl^ a light- house is pictured against the sky, near at hand is a white fort, and a church spire shows itself above the trees. But it is the beauty of the sea rather than of the land that here takes the first place in one's afi^ections ; and in after-time it is the memory of the molten silver sea and its green islands that clings to one longest; Amusements. 1 3 '• Wherever you wander the sea is in sight, With its changeable turquoise green and blue, And its strange transparence of limpid light. You can watch the work that the Nereids do Down, down, where their purple fans unfurl, Planting their coral and sowing their pearl." Those who are familiar with the scenery of Paget Soundj or of Vancouver's Island, will recognise, I think, many points of similarity with that of Bermuda. The dense forests are wanting in the latter, but from a bird's-eye view the resemblance is striking. Above all there is the same air of absolute quiet and a sub- dued wildness characteristic of the two places. Cer- tainly Bermuda is a quiet land ; so still a place, it seemed to me, I had never been in before. You are perpetually wondering why the church bells are not ringing for service, and I have heard people ask, " Did you hear the dog barking yesterday .^" But life here is by no means dull, a more friendly, hospitable, and fun-loving people you would not find, and what with military theatricals, croquet, cricket, lawn tennis, boat- ing parties, and other amusements, time glides away very quickly. There is little or no game on the island — one bevy of quails being the extent of my observations — but, as an Englishman must hunt or shoot something, a " paper-hunt" has been established. It may not be as exciting as fox-hunting, but, in a climate where you must take things easily, it affords capital exercise. The Bermudian foxes — or rather the Judases, as they carry the bag — are generally men from the garrison, and, with the thermometer 75 deg. in the shade, and 1 10 deg. or more in the sun, they have no easy task in giving a good run. Spectators are always invited to view " the ^4 Roraima. finish" at some previously selected spot, and there re- freshments of all kinds are served, making a very agreeable finale to an amusing day. A severe critic might remark that the hurdles and other obstacles placed near "the finish," were hardly worthy of the excessive ardour displayed in overcoming them, but he must remember that it perhaps makes up for a slight failing off where the jumps were more formidable. It is not only in Bermuda that the presence of a certain pair of bright eyes has driven many a Nimrod to deeds of heroism in the matter of hedges and ditches that otherwise would have been neglected For boating the Bermuda waters offer great facilities, and, if you want to see how near to the wind's eye it is possible to go, you cannot do better than hire one of the native sailing-boats — one masted and flush-decked — when there is a stiff breeze. You may get rather wet, but you will spin along at a glorious rate, and you certainly will admire the workmanlike way in which your crew — a man and a boy — manage the rakish craft. Then, in calm weather it is delightful to pay a visit to the reefs and gather for yourself the brain corals and ''sea-whips," specimens of which fishermen have brought to the hotel for sale. In these water-gardens may be seen all sorts of many-hued plants ; crinoids like palm trees, gorgonias, mosses, sea-feathers, coral like creeping vines, sea-cucumbers,* and coloured weeds waving to and fro over the brilliant fish. On bright, sunny days, when the blue water sparkles, you may, * A curious circumstance about these creatures is tliat nearly every individual harbours in his stomach a large parasitical fish, that lies at case and feeds upon whatever comes in its way. Climate. 15 perhaps, in fancy, hear snatches of low music and gay tones of laughter gurgling up from below, but, when it is dull and gloomy, the sounds will be of sorrow, telling secrets dire and tales of woe, wrung from restless spirits buried amid wreck and ruin beneath the flood that sweeps over those cruel, beautiful coral rocks. We had heard so much of the disagreeable effects of the south wind, which generates so much moisture that everything is quickly covered with green mould, and a general clammy feeling prevails, that we were con- tinually running round the corner of the hotel to note the direction of the wind by the flag at the signal station. As we were constantly expecting it — the south •wind — the natural consequence was that it never came, and we were very grateful. I think it was a French- man who remarked that nothing happens except the unexpected, and I have found this true in many cases. For instance, when travelling in the tropics, if you are continually on the look-out for snakes, you will rarely meet them, and we all know that the best way to keep off the rain is to carry an umbrella. The climate of Bermuda is said to be capricious, but during our stay — a short one certainly — we found the temperature very pleasant, the thermometer seldom rising over 73 deg., and frequently a fire towards evening was very com- fortable. Small as Bermuda is — as the five principal islands connected by ferries and bridges only form a chain about twenty-four miles in length, and with a breadth varying from a few hundred yards to about two miles — it yet contains many points of interest. The splendid light house on Gibb's Hill is worth a visit for itself, and for the fine view to be obtained from it ; the fortifica- 16 Boraima. tlons, too, which, together with the natural barriers, are gradually making a second Gibraltar, must be in- spected. The Paget Hills on the eastern shore show how the drifting sand is elevating the land, and pro- bably increasing it as fast as the western waves are washing it away. Unfortunately, this overwhelming mass of sand is steadily advancing over the cultivated land, and has already buried one cottage, whose chimney alone is visible above the surrounding whiteness. It is merely a matter of taste which is preferable — to be washed away or to be buried alive. Near the beach, at the foot of these hills, may be seen, at low water, great circular masses of rock, hollowed out like huge cauldrons. Similar ones occur at intervals round the islands, and are by no means the least interesting of the Bermudian curiosities.* However entertaining the country and sea-side may be, there is very little in the town of Hamilton worth noticing. With the exception of Trinity Church, the buildings are insignificant. The "Public Building" stands in an ill-tended garden and presents no induce- ment to the young Bermudian to prepare himself for the Legislature. But, perhaps, there will soon be no young white Berm^udians, as the youths of these islands find the United States better adapted for their speedy advancement in life. I had hoped to find in the museum a specimen of a * In appearance these gigantic pots and cauldrons are similar to the large basin-shaped, or funnf 1-like holes made ages ago by the glacier on the sandstone ridge in the " Glacier garden of Lucerne," Switzerland. But there, lying at the bottom of the basins are the colossal balls, which once as hard blocks of stone had slipped through the icy fissures, and had thrn been rolled and twisted about by the action of water rushing down upon them until the deep holes were made. The Bermudian boilers appear rather to have been built up than hollowed out. Mother-of' Pearl Spider. 17 certain spider, concerning which an ancient chronicler of Bermuda has said : " They are of a very large size, but withal beautifully coloured, and look as if they were adorned with pearl and gold. Their webs are in colour and substance a perfect raw silk, and so strongly woven that, running from tree to tree, like so many snares, small birds are sometimes caught in them." The Museum consisted of a few South-Sea Island shells, some coral, some moth-eaten skins, three bottles of alcohol containing marine specimens, two butterflies, and no spider. I had a better ungathered collection of insects in my own room at the hotel. I must return there and see if I can find a mother-of-pearl spider. 18 CHAPTER III. BERMUDIAN ROADS — NIGHT BLOOMING CACTUS — A NATURAL CURI- OSITY — EXPORTS AND IMPORTS — THE COLOVBED NATIVE — HARRINGTON SOUND— DEVIL'S HEAD — NEPTUNE'S GROTTO — A SALT-WATER FOUNTAIN — A DIABOLICAL PLOT — THE CALABASH — MEMENTOES OP TOM MOORE— WALSINGHAM— THE CAUSEWAY — A NEW FEATURE IN CULTIVATION — ST. GEORGE'S. T "T XE have not half exhausted the beauties of the V V neighbourhood, but, in case your patience should be at an end, please step into the carriage which is to take us to St. George's, at the other end of the island, whence we are to embark for the West Indies, and let us look about us on the way. Three roads lead to our destination ; we will take the middle one, which joins the ocean drive near Harrington Sound. Splendid roads these are, too ! Bermuda may well be proud of them. Altogether there are more than a hundred miles of broad, white, smooth road. Sometimes the road-bed is so deeply hewn out of the white coral rock that Lilliputian canyons are formed with fern- hung walls, and capped with aloe or cactus. Several varieties of the latter plant grow in the islands, and a magnificent specimen of the night- blooming cereus grand'tflora is to be seen in the small garden behind the Yacht Club in Hamilton. It runs An Ancient Cedar. 19 in wild profusion over trees, walls, and bushes, and when in blossom is covered with hundreds of pale flowers, whose delicious perfume is quite overpowering. It may be inconvenient, perhaps, to visit it at the proper time — midnight — but it is necessary, as in the morning beauty and perfume have gone. Dazzlingly white, but, fortunately, not dusty, is the road as we leave the snowy houses behind us, but soon we enter a stretch of cool forest. Here a deeper silence reigns than even on the sunny hill we have ascended, a melodious silence too, for the sweet note of the blue bird and the soft chirp of the "chick of the village" do not break the quiet, but rather adds to it. A crimson cardinal gives a rare flush to the grey cedar, and pretty little ground-doves sit perfectly unconcerned by the road-side as we drive past. Prospect is soon reached, and then we descend, again skirting a large morass, edged with cedars, mangrove, and palmetto. We see a new church, which makes a strong contrast with the old ruined one that stands farther on, near some really fine cedars. Here we halt for a moment to inspect a natural curiosity, namely, a very ancient cedar, lofty and hollow, and in whose dead trunk is growing a young one, the green head of which appears high up, amid the dead branches of the old one. Patches of cultivated land with their great hedges of oleander were as common here as everywhere else, but, besides the usual tomato, onion, and potato, we saw for the first time that friend of our childhood — the farinaceous arrowroot. Could we do less than greet it with a friendly nod as we drove along ? Alas ! even the cultivation of this diminishes year by year ; everything has to give c 2 20 Roraima. way to onions and tomatoes. — consequently, the supply of other vegetables, cereals, and fruits is extremely limited. With such a fertile soil the ex- ports might almost equal the imports in value, but I am afraid to say how many times the latter exceed the former at present. No one would expect a black, man to work more than he is absolutely obliged, and certainly in Bermuda he who can avoid doing anything makes the best of his opportunities. Possibly his nature is allied to that of the surrounding coral formations, and he becomes a sort of human coral- polyp, whose only labour of life is to get a little food and to eat it ; the rest he leaves to nature. Well, who can blame him ? he seems very happy and contented, he sends his children to school, he is very polite, and, if he is poor, poverty does not harm him, and he is content. Look at that merry group in the doorway of that tumble-down old building ! All smile at the strangers, and the mother who has been plaiting away at some palmetto work — which by the way is not half so fine and pretty here as in Florida — leaves it, to gather some magnificent roses we have stopped to admire. But surely an earthquake has shattered this little village ; roofless cottages, mouldering walls, gardens in which papaws, prickly pears, and lantanas form a perfect jungle, everything has the appearance of some such catastrophe. No, these ruins are the land fragments of what was once an important harbour, and the splendid sheet of water before us is Harrington Sound. Very beautiful is this lake — as it may be called — which at its junction with the sea is crossed by a bridge a few yards in length, and only visible The DeviVs Head. 21 when approached quite close ; for it lies at the foot of a circle of green hills, surrounded by cavernous shores, and with islands dotting its green transparent waters. Taking the road to the right we pass some pretty cottages, one of which has such a tremendous portico, that we are reminded of the donkey that tried to con- vert itself into a deer by attaching antlers to its head. Then we arrive at the Devil's Hole. Across the water the Devil's Head rises up, its perpendicular cliff look- ing quite grand in miniature; there the tropic-bird builds its nest in perfect security in some inaccessible position. What the devil has to do with either place I cannot say ; both names seem singularly inappropri- ate, and for the former " Neptune's Grotto " is more suitable, and just as easy to pronounce. There is frequently, I believe, a good deal of difficulty in finding the proprietor of the pool in question, but at the time of our visit he was standing at the wooden door, and informed us we had come at a good time, as he was just going to feed the fish. Entering, we found ourselves in a pretty circular grotto, lined with shrubs, ferns, and creepers. Steps, cut out of the rock, led down to a deep pool of the clearest salt water, in which were a number of great fish called " groupers," gazing up with the most expectant look — if a fish-eye can be expressive — and evidently aware that feeding time was at hand. And how they did eat I there was no dainty nibbling, no coquettish trifling, a huge mouth opened and the morsel was gone. " What does that great fellow weigh?" "Oh, about two shillings," replied the proprietor, whose idea of weight was a marketable 22 Roraima. one, " and those angels will average one and six- pence apiece." Well, those angels were worth it, their exquisite azure hue vied with the wonderfully tinted water, and, what with gold streakings, waving plume-like fins, and really beautiful eyes, they well deserved their name. If some clever soul could discover a preparation for preserving the natural hues of fish, what a benefactor he would be! At present, the alcoholic collections of our Museums form a ghastly contrast with the brilliant birds and insects which surround them. " While blazing breast of humming-bird and lo's stiffened wing. Are just as bright as when they flew their earliest voyage in spring; While speckled snake and spotted pard their markings still display — Though he who once embalmed them both himself be turned to clay — The scaly tribe a different doom awaits — scarce reach 'd the shore Those rainbow hues are fading fast till all their beauty's o'er." Right learnedly, and with the tongue of a gourmet, did our fisherman discuss the habits and qualities of the various fish that swim in Bermudian waters. Cow- fish, porgies, hamlets, hog, grunts, bream, and many others; a few he pointed out to us, amongst them a squirrel with large eyes, of a blood-red colour and peculiar shape; then he landed a "grunt," which gave vent to sounds that would shame a veritable porker. This natural aquarium is connected with the sea by an underground passage, consequently the water is always fresh ; formerly, we were told, it was a cavern, but the roof had fallen in. On emerging, we see eastward the pretty house and grounds belonging to the American Consul. In his garden is a salt-water fountain, in the basin of which we, during a former visit, had seen many strange fish, Moore's Calabash Tree. 23 and also some good specimens of the sea-horse. On that occasion we had been told of the terrible plot concocted in these Islands by a Dr. Blackburn, for introducing the yellow fever into the Northern part of the United States, by sending thither boxes of infected clothing. Fortunately — and I believe chiefly through the instrumentality of our host — the plot was discovered in time to prevent the shipment, and a terrible calamity was probably averted. The worthy Consul does not confine his attention to fish alone, and his system of banana culture might be profitably adopted in many other parts of the Island. Continuing our drive round the Sound, we are more and more impressed with its attractions ; the apple-green water below us, the rocky inlets with white sandy edges, here and there a stretch of shingle or a wooden promontory, and, beyond, the blue sea with the foam on its distant reefs, form a lovely picture, and we are sorry when a turn in the road has shut us out from such a wealth of colour. Our next halting-place is at a farm house, near which stands Moore's " calabash tree,"* beneath whose shade the poet composed his verses, and wove his amatory couplets addressed to " Nea, the Rose of the Isles." The tree lives still, in spite of the severe hacking it has received from tourists, whose carved names are continually blurred out by time and the hands of their successors. Even the seat under it is the object of much curiosity, and as each new one is placed in its proper position it is carried off piece- meal by enthusiastic admirers, who must have a bit of the chair the poet sat in. I never see the ravages * Crescentia cujete. 24 Roraima. made by relic hunters, or the desecration of historical places, without thinking of a certain tourist to whom an Italian monk was showing a consecrated lamp, which had never gone out during five centuries. Giving the flame a decisive pufF, he remarked, with cool complacency, " Well, I guess it's out now." A few gourds are still left hanging from the topmost boughs of the tree, but the sable attendant will not allow any of these to be knocked down, so you must be satisfied with the one presented to you by the proprietor of the land at your departure. It may come from Moore's tree, but gourds are de- ceptive and much alike, A short walk through tangled wild-wood leads to some limestone caves, which were also frequented by the poet. They differ little from other cavernous formations; there are vaulted arches, halls and aisles, gem-studded cornices, and upright columns; here there is a sheet of water so clear that the guide has to tell you that it is water; there, oozing stalactites embellish a Gothic temple, but the effect of brilliant crvstallization is marred by the smoke of the bushes which light up the gloom of the interior. The visit is a scrambling one, but still worth accomplishing. Shortly after leaving Walsingham we cross the causeway which connects the main island with St. George's ; on our right, is the magnificent Castle Harbour, with numerous islands ; on our left, a land- locked sound, with cranes and other birds fishing on the shallows and among the mangrove bushes, whilst in front, lying in the hollow of a curve under a hill, are the white houses of the town. Rapidly we drive along the fine causeway, the waves now and then almost dashing over us, so near is the sea ; then, after St. George's. 25 crossing a drawbridge, we are soon among cottages and gardens. Here we see again potato fields and patches of cultivated ground, apparently planted with black bottles. These black bottles are quite a feature in Bermudian cultivation during the sowing season ; they are not planted in the hope of their ever becoming quarts or magnums, or even of their being refilled by nature with their original contents, but, having held the seed, they merely indicate the amount sown. A quaint old town is St. George's, with its high stone walls and winding alleys. So narrow are the streets that, if two carriages met in one of them, it is difficult to imagine what would happen, as they could not pass, and certainly could not turn back; but two carriages in St. George's on the same day would be an exceptional event. The whole place has the appearance of having been cut out of a single block of white limestone, rather than being built of bricks of that material. It is not in many places that a man can build his house from stone out of his own quarry, on his own premises, but he can in Bermuda. With a hand-saw he cuts out the soft stone, and the blocks then harden by exposure to the air. The numerous square cuttings in the hill-sides and along the roads form a feature in the scenery, and by no means an unpleasing one, as the new are snowy white, and the old are generally draped with green bushes and creepers. Walls are built of the same material, and then receive, as the houses do, a coating of whitewash, which hides the seams and joinings, thus presenting a solid white mass. Over these walls, you see broad plantain leaves and flaming poinsetties ; 26 Boraima. orange, lemon, and palm trees are more numerous here at St. George's than at Hamilton, and the tropical aspect of the town extends to its inhabi- tants. Of labour there is little or no sign, and what there is of life is hardly worth mentioning. As St. George's is a garrison town — two regiments being considered necessary for the safety of Bermuda — it is probably gayer than when we saw it, which was in hot noonday, when all slept except one black man, who was shaving a white man under the shade of a tree in the square. That evening the * Beta,' from Halifax, left with us for the West Indies. Summer isles, in spite of that abused hotel, I would gladly revisit you ; I carry away nought but a remembrance of white cottages and gardens, green islands, billowy masses of oleander, cedar hills, and coral rocks, and, above all, of a shining lake-like sea, as calm and restful as the happy homes which it surrounds. 27 CHAPTER IV. ST. THOMAS — FORTS — BOATMEN — DIVERS — HOTEL DU COMMERCE — MAIN STREET — STABLE COMPANIONS— AMAZONS — A NEGRO POLITICIAN— DANISH RULE— A SORRY SIGHT JUSTICE IN THE VIRGIN GROUP— A DAY'S DOINGS— KRUMM BAY — CHA-CHAS — AN OCEAN pawnbroker's — LANDSLIP— ALOE — A CURE FOB LUNG DISEASES — UP THE MOUNTAIN. HAD the passengers on board the comfortable ' Beta ' been as poetical as Childe Harold was when in his clumsy brig he sang: " Four days are sped, but with the fifth anon New shores descried make every bosom gay," they might have said something less prosy than " Thank goodness, there's land !" when, precisely on the fifth morning after leaving Bermuda, a vision as of misty clouds grew out of the sea ! Then, as the yellow flush of dawn cleared the prospect, substance was given to the hazv outlines, and as the sun rose, touching the rugged peaks with gold and purple, the island of St. Thomas lay revealed before them. As the vessel entered the spacious harbour and dropped anchor at some distance from shore, we thought we had seldom looked at a prettier scene. In front is a high, abrupt mountain range, from which three rounded spurs run down to the sea, and on these 28 Roraima. hills stands the town. On the right, a low, wooded savanna sweeps up to the hills which encircle the bay, whose mirror-like surface reflects the rocks and islands which close the entrance and almost join the pro- montory on our left. But it is the rich colouring that forms the striking part of the view. After demure Bermuda, with its white and grey-green, the bright red roofs and white, green, yellow, and blue houses are almost dazzling. There, clinging to the side of the hill, is a cluster of freshly painted cottages, looking very gaudy in the strong sunlight; nearer at hand are a few low houses, whose once brilliant roofs are now changed by time and weather to a golden russet-red highly picturesque. The height of the dark mountains gives a diminutive appearance to the buildings, so that you imagine you are looking at a Dutch toy village — or rather three villages. This idea is enhanced by the toy fort which, with bastion, battlements, and barbican, is strongly suggestive of cake ornamentation. Commanding this Danish fortress are the two strongholds of those old pirates called Bluebeard and Blackbeard, which look feudal, and only want a few of Mr. James's horsemen slowly winding up the narrow causeway to be quite romantic. Over the trees of the toy public garden, which lies close to the landing, is seen a Moorish-looking structure, which proves to be the hotel, and gives pro- mise of coolness and comfort, which I need hardly say is not realised. Behold, then, bright, cheerful little dwellings, with a prevailing hue of russet, perched on hills and nestling in the intervening valleys, amid tropical trees and flowering shrubs, forming the centre of a combination of mountain, sea, and island that is Landing at St. Thomas. 29 very pleasing, especially when seen in the soft golden light shining through the pearly grey mist of the rain storms which often sweep over the island — and such is St, Thomas. The change of scenery from Bermuda is not greater than that of manners. There is no quaker-like sim- plicity in St. Thomas ; noise and clamour prevail. Hardly has the anchor touched the bottom before the ship is surrounded with dozens of boats, manned by sturdy negroes, anxious to take passengers ashore. Here we find among the boatmen the same nam.es as those borne by Egyptian donkeys at Cairo and Alex- andria — Derby winners, heroes of popular songs, &c. " Champagne Charlie " urges his cognomen as a special reason for your patronage, whilst another, blacker than the blackest of imps, claims the stranger's old acquaintance with " Remember Snowball, massa, last time you here !" Just as we stepped into our boat, a young Canadian on board, who had been assiduously fishing ever since we arrived, and without success, suddenly called out that he had a bite, and triumphantly pulled up his line, to which a bottle had been attached by one of the little urchins when diving for coppers. This little in- cident reminded one of our party of the tricks which Antony and Cleopatra used to play each other by the aid of divers. In the play Charmian says to Cleopatra : " 'Twas merry when You wagered on your angling ; when your diver Did hang a salt fish on his hook, which he With fervency drew up." " And thus history repeats herself," said somebody else, as we landed on the wharf 30 Roraima. The inhabitants of St. Thomas are apt to boast of their Hotel du Commerce, and to inform the stranger that it is the best in the West Indies ; all I can say is that out of the few I saw, it was by far the worst. It was kept by a Spanish family, each member of which was master, and each cared less than the other for the comfort of the guests. The beds were bad, the mos- quito nets were full of holes, there was not a comfort- able chair or table in any bedroom, dirt and uncleanliness prevailed everywhere ; clean linen was at a discount, and the cook evidently thought that wretched food was compensated for by the fine, broad verandah in which it was eaten. My friend, the doctor, was so overcome by the heat and discomfort that he determined to return to Boston by the first steamer, which was not due, however, for nearly a fortnight. As mine, also, was not expected until about the same time, we determined to make the best of it, and try to enjoy ourselves. On looking back, we afterwards found that our enjoyment principally consisted in going from the reading-room to the club, and from the club back to the reading- room. It was too hot to sit down, and we found it necessary to keep moving in order to get a little air. Main Street, which runs along the sea, is the only level piece of ground in St. Thomas ; beyond that all is up-hill ; it is here, therefore, that you see life in its busiest and idlest aspect. The shops and stores are prepossessing neither in their exterior nor in their in- terior. Straw hats, ready-made clothes, tawdry trifles, and provisions predominate; there is nothing to tempt you, nothing strange to invite a purchaser. But in the street itself it is more amusing ; look at that stately woman in flowing white, with the bright turban, on An Admirer' of Lord Beaconafield. 31 which is poised a tray of cakes — she is a Haytian ; those children sitting on the doorstep, and dressed in the suit they were born in, are evidently natives ; here comes a white horse, with a brilliant red saddle-cloth, followed closely by a sheep ; is there a circus coming? No; the patriarchal rider is only Mr. So- and So, and it is the fashion in many parts of the West Indies for sheep to accompany horses. They say it is healthy for sheep to live in the stables with horses, and they get so attached to one another that, out-of doors, the former will not leave the latter as long as they can keep up with them. Now groups of women pass ; surely they are real Amazons ! Jet black, and wearing only very short skirts, a twist of hemp round their heads, and with their woolly hair plaited in horns, or crowned with a half cocoa-nut by way of bonnet, they shout and sing like frantic Moenads. They are coalers returning from their hard day's labour in the harbour. It is not in St. Thomas where " men must work and women must weep." That old negro who is declaiming with such vehemence in front of the hotel is a great admirer of Lord Beaconsfield, learns all his speeches by heart, and goes about reciting them. It is pleasant to observe this tribute of admiration to our great Minister, how- ever odd the expression of it may be. English, French, German, Dutch, Creoles, all sorts of nationalities, are met with here, but of Danes, to whom the island be- longs, there is a very limited supply. As for the Danish language, it is the only one not heard. Of Danish rule the casual visitor can, of course, say very little. He sees clean, well-ordered streets, and evidences of continual improvements, sanitary and 32 Boraima. otherwise, although he cannot help thinking that the great open sewer, crossed by a bridge in Main Street, and down which, in the rainy season, come avalanches of dead cats, tin cans, and other despised articles, might be made less conspicuous, and answer its purpose equally well. He sees, also, a chain-gang on some public works, and the pitiful sight of women working with the male convicts ; but the unfortunate creatures seem to care less about it than the spectator, and with a jaunty air shoulder their spade or pickaxe, and sing to a chain accompaniment. The visitor to the island will probably hear — for at St. Thomas, as elsewhere : " There is a lust in man no charm can tame, Of loudly publishing his neighbour's shame — " of the strange administration of justice (by the way, do we not, in our own neighbouring island of Tortola, present the strange spectacle of a president who him- self combines the three functions of judge, prosecutor, and judge of appeal?), of harmless idlers being picked up by the police and exiled to the small island of St. John's, there to tend sheep and cattle ; of theft being far more severely punished than murder, and of the general incapacity of the government. But the pro- verbial "grain of salt" must be taken with the tales, and I think the stranger will allow that things are car- ried on much the same as elsewhere ; that harmony exists in spite of inharmonious elements, and that St. Thomas is not so bad as he had been led to expect. The days here are monotonous, but variety cannot be expected in so circumscribed an area. In the early morning, just as you are about to drop off to sleep. Life at St. Thomas, 33 after an intensely hot night, varied with earthquakes, and passed probably in opening and closing the shutters of your room — closing them against the driving rain, and opening them to get some air — the gun fires, and if that fails to waken you thoroughly, the negroes hold such a jubilee under your window that sleep is quite impossible.* A sudden screaming and wild vociferation makes you spring out of bed fearing an earthquake, but it is only the old black women having a "talk," or merely wishing each other " good morning." Then the men indulge in angry abuse, gesticulate madly, and just as you expect to see a knite plunged into somebody's bosom, the chief dis- putant w-alks off, singing the " Sweet by-and-by." There was no quarrel ! You then go to bed again ; but immediately bread and coffee are brought, and, as early rising is infectious, you go through the agony of dressing when, as Sydney Smith says, you would rather " take off your flesh and sit in your bones." St. Thomas is one of those places where, as the Irishman said, it is never cooler — it may be hotter, but it is never cooler. However, that is at last accomplished, and then comes a terrible gap of time until breakfast. There is little to explore, and ferns and shells are soon exhausted, so you ramble up Main Street, visit the much-enduring consul, or make one of the coterie in the grand reunions held in some store, where the affairs of the world are settled. At last comes breakfast, which is dinner without * Just before our arrival a case occurred in which a little urchin was sent on a similar expedition, his only offence apparently being that ot running about the streets in a shirt which only extended as far as his breast-bone, and consequently was not regulation. D 34 Roraima. soup, and where quantity tries to make up for quality. " Such breakfast, such beginning of the day Is more than half the whole j" and very fortunate it is that such is the case, as until the heat of the sun has decreased there is not much in- ducement for exercise. By that time dinner is ready, and soon after — as early hours are the rule — you retire to your room, to turn out the centipedes, which are of enormous size in St. Thomas, from under your pillow, and the mosquitos from out of the netting. Then you perspire all night. And so passes hotel-life when there are no dinner-parties, nor theatricals, nor excursions to break its monotony. One morning we took a boat to visit a very curious place called "Krumm Bay." It was intensely hot, but "Admiral Nelson" pulled away merrily across the harbour, past the western suburb of the town, and in among the islands and creeks, which in olden times afforded good retreats for pirates. Here Blackbeard was wont to retire after some filibustering expedition and take in fresh supplies of wines and provisions. A fishing boat sailed by, in which was an enormous Jew- fish, at which the '' Admiral " pulled a very long face, and explained to us that, whenever a Jew-fish was caught, some one of high position in St. Thomas was sure to die, or perhaps was already dead. Strangely enough, next morning we noticed that all the flags were at half-mast, and heard that news had just arrived of the death in England of the head of one of the chief firms in the island. The islets around were covered with thick under- bush, out of which tall flowering aloes shot up like Cha-Chas. 35 telegraph poles, but on the mainland cacti predominated, with here and there masses of creamy blossoms of the fragrant Frangipani. I am at a loss to know how the latter plant gained its name, as its scent is by no means the same as that extracted from flowers by the great Roman alchemist Frangipani, and which as " a perfumed powder in a velvet bag," with " a cast of Odours rare — ot orris mixed with spice Sandal and violet, with musk and rose Combined in due proportion," was considered a wonderful cure for the plague. High up on the arid soil rose a giant cereus, with arms like candelabra ; lower down were the round prickly forms of theechinocactus, looking like small hedge-hogs ; then there were numbers of the melocactus, which they here call the Pope's head, and which finds a ready sale among the shipping. We had noticed depots for shells and cacti at the other extremity of the town, and probably these are the only exports from the island. Those large trees near the water are manchineel, whose fruit is deadly poison to all but crabs, who esteem it highly. These crabs are themselves considered a delicacy, but are generally kept for a week, and thoroughly purged before being eaten. But who are those light-complexioned men in that crazy canoe ^ The Admiral smiles disdainfully as he informs us that they are only " Cha-Chas," who live on the outskirts of the town, and employ themselves in fishing. We afterwards visited one of their little colonies, and found an industrious people — natives of small adjacent islands — living in huts made of the tin plates cut from kerosene cans and biscuit cases, looking D 2 36 Roraima. not unlike extra large sardine-boxes, and as closely packed. There they raised some fruit and vegetables, plaited straw, and made ornaments of tamarind seeds. At the bottom of a deep bay, we found the object of our visit, viz., an establishment for wrecks. Here, lying on the beach and stowed away under long sheds, were fragments of all sorts of vessels and their fittings. Long masts lay near rusty boilers, paddle-wheels were mixed with broken screws ; a deck cabin half con- cealed a ship's boat; anchors, helms, poops, sterns, funnels, beams, all the makings of a ship were there, and a large workshop showed where the useless was made good, and the broken repaired. It was not a working-day, and the only sign of life was a large and hungry dog, whose appearance did not render a landing very inviting. We had, therefore, to be satisfied with an exterior view of this marine pawn-shop, where Neptune had got rid of some of his worthless lumber, perhaps only to retake it when it had once more been made serviceable. And now, before taking leave of St. Thomas, let us ascend to the top of the hill above the town, and risk a hot walk for the sake of the fresh air and view. After passing the theatre, where a black troupe had lately performed " Macbeth," the road winds up and up, past cottages hanging like bird-cages to the hill- sides, and only waiting for a landslip to precipitate them into the valley — in fact, one house that now stands close to the town originally stood far up on a hill, but in 1877 it was carried down entire to its pre- sent position, after an earthquake, followed by a land- slip — and soon we were high above the red tiled roofs The vegetation is of the scrub order, and among the A Fine View. 37 low bushes fly the repulsive " black witches," uttering rich but melancholy notes. The yellow flowers of the " cedar bush " sprinkle the mountain-side, and a species of bitter aloe is common ; from the latter an old black woman of the town makes a decoction which is posi- tively declared to be a certain cure for lung disease. The fleshy leaves contain a jelly-like pulp ; this, after being extracted, is washed seven times in pure water, and beaten up with eggs and milk. To efl^ect a cure, seven wine-glasses of it must be drunk. In Mexico I have frequently seen the same medicine used, and have heard wonderful stories of its power, but there the number seven is not included in the recipe. Continuing up the path, we do not see much animal life ; occasionally a lizard runs across, or we meet a few natives bringing down sugar-cane, and each carrying a "sour- sop " — a large green fruit, with pulp-like cotton- wool—or, perchance, a little donkey clatters down, so loaded with grass that nothing can be seen of it except the little hoofs. The view from the summit is fine and contrasting. On one side, far below, lies the busy town, with its picturesque towers and harbour filled with shipping. On the other, a silent waste of water, broken up into fantastic bays and inlets, and with rocky islands scattered over its face. On the town side, hardly any cultivation is visible, but on the other are long strips of cane-lands and patches of garden, groups of fruit-trees, and grazing pastures. In the west, rises Porto Rico ; in the south, the dim outlines of Santa Cruz are visible, and between the two, like a ship under press of canvas, appears Caraval, or ns Boraima. Sail Rock, with its forked peak, white-shining in the sun. To the east, lie the Virgin Islands in the midst of the " Grande Rue des Vierges," as the blue waters which surround them are called. But we have not much time to admire the scene, already the rose-pink in the west is changing to gold, a metallic lustre dances on the water, the Virgin group is fading in the purple distance, and we must descend to the steaming town. As we approach, a sound of music floats up to us, and we hear children's voices singing a Christmas carol. Can this really be December ? To-morrow we will go to Santa Cruz. 39 CHAPTER V. TO SANTA CRUZ — BASSIN— A DOG-HOUSE— FRUIT STEALING " THIBET " TREES— GREEN HERONS — PRETTY SCENERY — WEST END — SANTA CRUZ V. ST. THOMAS — CENTRAL ROAD — STEAM PLOUGH— A CENTRAL FACTORY— OPPOSITION— WAGES — CHIL- DREN — HOME AGAIN — RE-EMBARKATION — OFFICIAL DELAY. SANTA CRUZ is situated about forty miles south of St. Thomas. To reach it, it is necessary to take the Government mail-schooner, which makes the passage generally in about six hours, though, with con- trary winds, it has been known to take days, and even weeks. Nine o'clock in the evening was the hour for sailing, and precisely at that time we stepped on board. " Passports, gentlemen !" was the greeting we received. " What ! passports to go from one Danish island to another !" We had none, so it was finally settled that we should pay the price of thetn — thirty-two cents, each — to the Commissioner of Police, who was expected on board to see his mother- in-law off. Ten o'clock came, and no sign of either Commissioner or his mother-in-law. The breeze was falling, and we began to doubt whether we should be able to get outside the harbour, but at half-past ten they appeared, and in a few minutes we were 'oeating out. When we gained the open sea, the north-east trade 40 Boraima. wind blew fresh and strong, so that by four a.m. next morning we had passed through the narrow reef- passage, and had anchored in a picturesque bay at the fort of Bassin (Christianstoed), the capital of the island. The scene differed widely from that of St. Thomas. From the white beach backwards, acres of sugar-cane extended over the level land and swept up over the undulating hills and across to the mountam background in a waving mass of green, broken here and there by long lines of cocoa-nut palms, windmills, the white buildings of the planters, and the cottages of their labourers. The town looked antiquated, but clean, and with ample foliage. Originally, the island was covered with forest, but the French burnt it, and now it appears like one vast sugar plantation. But the loss of its forests may prove in time the ruin of the island. Formerly its rain-fall was abundant, and its productive- ness enormous. Now years of drought follow in quick succession, and it is said that the barren belt beginning at the seabeach in parts of the island is annually spreading inland. Ruin is following closely in the path of the forest destroyer. In former years Bassin was a place of great resort, but now visitors are scarce, and the wretched building near the wharf, although it still bears the name of hotel, is closed and receives no guests. We had been recommended to take rooms at the Widow Brady's. This we did, and had no cause to regret it. The widow herself met us before we reached her house. It was only a short distance, but, before we had accomplished it, we knew all the gossip of the island, the sugar prospect, the history of the poor deceased. Floriculture. 41 and had received a general sketch of past events, with a few prophetic remarks concerning the future. A refreshing bath made up for a sleepless night on the schooner, whose night accommodation — unless you preferred to stifle below — consisted of a few rabbit- hutches, or dog-houses, as they are called, with a mattress spread on the floor. After our bath we started on a tour of inspection. It did not require many minutes to find out that the sleepy old town was not a success as regards its build- ings, and that Santa Cruz rum was its chief article of commerce, but its gardens and trees were delightful. There were sapodillas, fine, lofty trees, with clusters of leaves and brown fruit, avocados, trees of the mess- apple, sour-sop, and other insipid fruits ; then there were mangoes, tamarinds, and guava bushes, overrun with bright convolvoluses, and still more brilliant ipomasas ; roses, jessamine, and honeysuckle grew most luxuriantly, but they were overmatched in pro- fusion, if not in fragrance, by the Mexican wreath plant, with pretty pink flowers like clusters of coral, and by the quiscualis, whose sweet jessamine like flowers — white, pink, and red on the same stalk — peeped out in hundreds from their glossy green hiding places. A pleasing feature in this island is the number of good roads which run in all directions. On one of these we drove over to Friderichstoed, or West End, as it is called. I do not know why the latter name should be used, but I suppose for the same reason that Christianstoed is called Bassin, and Charlotte Amalia, St. Thomas. During the drive, we saw to perfection that system of cultivation which commencing in this 42 Roraima. island continues all through the West Indies, with the exception now of Trinidad, — namely, the systematic neglect of all other products for one, and that one — sugar. There comes a drought, a deluge, or a blight, and great is the outcry of planters, who have nothing else to fall back upon. Here, outside the town, even the fruit trees had been cut down, because, as long as fruit is on a tree, the labourers instead of working will lie down and pick and eat. The same complaint exists everywhere against the fruit-loving workmen, whether native or imported, and it is said that the only way of stopping the evil is the ruthless cutting down of the trees. Our road ran through a sea of cane, or an occasional acre of Guinea grass in different stages of ripeness, crossed at intervals by long rows of cocoa-nut palms, whose beauty was diminished by a blight which seems to have prevailed in all the West Indian Islands. Fortunately, it had not touched the mountain-cabbage palms, which rose straight and majestic, and with the greenest of plums, beside their faded brethren. These trees, although beautiful to look at, did not afford much shade, and as the sun was intensely hot, it was a relief occasionally to rest under the " Thibet," whose long brown pods made a strange rustling sound as they were shaken by the breeze. The branches and mimosa-like leaves of this tree make nutritious food for cattle, and it is therefore especially valuable in dry seasons. Now the planters were especially jubilant, as there had been an abundant fall of rain, and the prospect of good crops was cheering, after six or seven bad years. Rivulets trickled past us, and in the marshy ground Sugar-Making. 43 small green herons peered at us inquiringly or plunged their bills into the soft earth. As we approached the western side the scenery improved ; high hills rose up on either side, and below us ran a mountain stream in a dell rich with mango and bread-fruit* trees, and gaily decked with heliconias, yellow cedar bush, and the crimson flowers of the " Pride of Barbadoes." On the high points of land, windmills stretch out their long arms, or, armless, resembled Martello towers guarding the cane valleys beneath. In the valleys, the smoke issuing from the tall chimneys showed that sugar-making was in pro- gress, and at one of the plantations the owner kindly asked us in. Here they were ploughing, or placing the cane slips on the ridges ready for planting, there they were hoeing, and in another place, cutting the ripe cane or carrying it to the mill. The various processes were shown and explained to us, and then our host refreshed us with cane juice in different stages, from " sling," which was served in large jugs, to the material beverage — rum — which, as real old Santa Cruz, was drunk as a liqueur. We both agreed afterwards, that " sling " was the most unpleasant beverage we had ever tasted. The dwelling house was well situated for business and pleasure, as from one window the owner could overlook his workpeople on the plantation, and from the other he often shot the little Santa Cruz deer, * The bread-fruit naturally recalls the " Mutiny of the Bounty," as it was for the purpose of introducing that tree into the West Indies that Bligh was sent to Tahiti in 1788. On the failure of that expedition he again set out for Tahiti in 1792, obtained his trees, and landed a number safely at St. Vincent. But in these islands it is not the grand tree which in the South Seas affords the chief sustenance of life, and the degenerated fruit is left untouched even by the negro. 44 Roraima. which abound in the low underbrush of the unculti- vated parts. After a short visit we took our leave, and continued our drive. At length, the hills were left behind, and before us lay a flat rich country — cane-laden of course — stretching to the sea. In the fine roadstead, only two or three vessels lay at anchor, and we at once exclaimed that surely this ought to be the converging point for trade with the West Indies ; that instead of the small town of Friderichstoed there were capabilities for a city. We were ignorant perhaps, but we could not understand what advan- tages St. Thomas possessed over this pretty island. True, its geographical position is not equal to that of St. Thomas, but the very few extra hours taken to reach it would be compensated for by its superior land facilities and its healthiness. Possibly, shipowners and merchants at home may say, what is health in com- parison with three hours' extra fuel ? but those who live out here, and those who travel in ships, may reverse the saying. W^ould hurricanes in the com- modious roadstead be more dangerous than in the harbour of St. Thomas? Well! in 1867, a tidal wave at the latter place destroyed an immense amount of property and lives, and swamped the shipping, and to the present time parricular prayers are offered in the churches at the beginning and end ot the hurri- cane season. It is said that, in a sanitary point of of view, St. Thomas is very different from what it was years ago, but of the two islands we certainly preferred Santa Cruz. Towards evening, after we had paid a very pleasant visit to Major M — , one of the principal planters in the The Central Factor ij. 45 Island — we drove back to Bassin by the central road, which was straight and flat in comparison with that of the morning. As before, cane and palms surrounded us, but many of the cocoa-nut trees had been robbed of their beauty and were headless ; and, as the fresh breeze swept over the land, their bent shafts resembled the bare poles of a stricken ship scudding along through a waving green sea. At the corners of the different plantations by the roadside, were small white- domed buildings like Eastern sepulchres; these were watch houses, necessary to prevent stray passers-by from cutting the juicy cane. A steam plough next claimed our attention, and after that a Moravian* Church ; then darkness closed in, and before long we were home again. Another of our drives was to the new " Central Factory," about which Santa Cruz was then very much disturbed and divided into two factions. By a " Central Factory," the functions of the cane pro- ducer and the sugar-maker are divided, just as those of the wheat farmer and the miller. All the planter has to do is to grow the cane and take it when cut to the nearest depot belonging to the " Central Factory," and then his duty is finished. The complaints against the one being erected in this island were many ; among them, it was said that the Government — it was a Government project — had forced * The Moravians here, as elsewhere, have schools judiciously adminis- tered, and these zealous people are still worthy of Cowper's eulogy when he said, " Fir'd with a zeal peculiar, they defy The rage and rigour ot a polar sky, And plant successfully sweet Sharon's rose On burning plains, and in eternal snows." 46 Boraima. the planters into joining the Company, most of the estates being in debt to the Government, owing to a series of bad years ; that the planters had their own machinery and could make larger profits by manu- facturing sugar themselves ; that there was not enough sugar on the island to make so large a factory pay ; that small farms and sub-lettings would spring up among the black population (which was already fast superseding the white), which would withdraw labour from the large estates and deteriorate agriculture. The "piping " was also objected to; miles of this had been laid down to convey the juice from the five depots to the Central House ; up hill and down hill ran this piping, and its opponents declared that the means (pressure) adopted for its utility could never succeed. Nor was the price to be paid by the Company, viz., the value of five and a half pounds of sugar for one hundred pounds of cane, considered sufficient, and altogether so disheartened were the opponents that some of them who had one hundred shares in the Factory, and had paid up a half, were ready to give awav the remaining fifty to anyone who would take them up. Whether the project has proved successful or not, I have never heard. To our eyes, the chief drawback seemed to be in the great cost of the buildings and machinery, which were on a far too niasnificent a scale for the small island. A cause of failure in the West India Islands has been the superabundance of central factories ; where one would have been sufficient for the neighbourhood, three and four have been erected, to the detriment of all.* In Martinique, for example, there are no * Among the important improvements, the factory intended to burn Preponderance of Black Population. 47 less than thirteen, and out of these only six are profit- able. Wages in Santa Cruz could not be considered excessive, the average for the negro labourers being ten cents per diem, with bread, sugar, and rum thrown in. But poverty was not noticeable, as it was at St. Thomas, and the number of plump, healthy-looking children was remarkable ; when we wanted some memento to take away with us, and asked if they made nothing peculiar to the island, the answer might have been that given by an old lady at Martinique to a similar question : — " Rien que les enfants, Monsieur, en voulez-vous ?" The vast preponderance of the black population over the white ought to be a subject of deep con- sideration to the island planters, and to us it appeared, from the rumours of discontent and negro outbreaks, that the very existence of the white property -owners was in danger.* Home we went by the beach, where the fresh-smelling sea-weed lay in great banks, and near us was a wonderfully bright colouring of green, blue, and yellow, as the still water lay over deep or shallow shoalsj enclosed within circling coral reef, white with the foaming waves of the blue-black sea beyond. When we re-embarked on the schooner for St. Thomas, we were delayed for more than three hours, which we knew would seriously imperil our chances of getting anything to eat on our arrival at the hotel. This time the delay was caused by the mail, and when it did arrive it consisted of one skinny bag, apparently coal for fuel, thus saving the waste cane which it was customary to use for that purpose, for manure. * Since the above was written news has arrived of a negro insurrection, and the destruction of nearly every sugar plantation on the island. 48 Uoraima. containing one letter. Fresh passports to take us back ! truly there must be " something rotten in the state of Denmark." We lost our dinner by just half-an-hour, but were compensated in some degree by the arrival of our respective steamers, which were to sail on the following day. We had therefore to forego the plea- sures of a shark hunt,* which had been arranged for us, and in a few hours the doctor was on his way to America, and I was bound South. * A favourite amusement in St. Thomas ; a dead horse is towed out behind a boat, and the greedy monsters, eagerly fastening on it, are then harpooned. 49 CHAPTER VI. SABA — CRATER COLONIES — ST. EUSTATIUS— ST. KITTS — BRIMSTONE HILL — MOUNT MISERY — AN ATMOSPHERE — BASSETERRE — CROWN COLONY SYSTEM — THE NARROWS— NEVIS— REDONDO—MONTSER- RAT— ANTIGUA — ITS HARBOUR BY MOONLIGHT— GUADELOUPE — MARIEGALANTE — POMINICA — CARIBS — ISLAND SCENERY— RO- SEAU — PROGS. THE meeting of the steamers at St. Thomas brings together a varied company, and those on board the * Tiber ' formed no exception to the rule, clergy- men, colonial officials, military officers, planters, en- gineers, commercial travellers, tourists, only a few of each denomination certainly, but those few all the more prepared to enjoy sea-life by having superior cabin accommodation. Passengers just from England were of course well- acquainted with one another after a two weeks' voyage, and of the others even the most frigid had thawed out before we passed Saba. Strange little island 1 only a volcanic cone rising directly from the water. We glided by so close that we seemed to hear the lap of the waves as they gently kissed its rocky base, but no harbour, no habitation was visible. It must be an active volcano, for near the summit a faint blue smoke curled upwards and joined the floating clouds. No ; that smoke is raised by human hands, for the crater £ 60 Roraima. out of which it ascends is the home of a small colony. A mixed population of Dutch and negroes live there, raise fruit and vegetables, and build boats it is said, though timber must be getting scarce in spite of the trees that we see edging the crater's rim. Some years previously I had visited a crater colony in beautiful Apolima — one of the South Sea Islands ; there the whole of the interior had sunk, and we paddled through a narrow opening into a lovely bay, on whose bank stood the village. But here there was no ingress, save by a rocky staircase leading to the interior. I should much like to have gained an insight into the life of the inhabitants, who may, indeed, be said to "live with a volcano under their feet," but time and opportunity were wanting, and in a very short time we had lost sight of the green nest in rough and rugged Saba. Then another volcanic island, St. Eustatius, appeared. The northern end is broken and rocky, with here and there a ravine filled with trees, then a stretch of land leading up to the crater. Unlike its sister isle, it is the outside which is green and cultivated, and houses dot the scene. It is picturesque, and, before we are tired of looking at it, it fades like a dissolving view, and, ere the accompanying music has had time to change from a Dutch to an English tune, we are coasting along St. Kitts. Now we begin to realize the fact that we are in the West Indies. The long promontory, which slopes up to the chain of hills intersecting the island, is fresh and green with sugar-cane ; tall factory-chimneys and planters' houses are scattered about, and the soft beauty of the cultivated land contrasts with the bold moun- Mount Misery. 51 tain heights which shoot up in culminating masses to- wards the centre. Near the shore stands a lonely rock, huge and precipitous as if flung from the summit of Mount Misery, which, in the distant hack-ground, towers above it to a height of nearly 4,000 feet. Brimstone Hill, as this imposing pile of igneous rock is called, is accessible only from one side ; formerly it was the seat of the garrison and was fortified, the fortifications being still visible. Further on, a shapely mount, flat-tipped and wooded, raises itself above a black ravine cut deep into the lower hills, which are cultivated in many parts to their tops. A white cloud floats across the volcanic chasm over which Mount Misery frowns, leaving the summit crag bare and distinct, and, for the first time since we entered the West Indies, atmosphere lends its charm to perspective. Hitherto the clearness of the atmosphere had brought the island views strangely close, without a distance, and with a monotone of tint most unpaintable, but here there was cloud and mist enough to have satisfied Corot himself. It was pleasant to feel that there was a beyond that we could clothe with our own fanciful colours, and that our gaze did not enfold the entire landscape. Basseterre, the capital, where we stopped for an hour, looked very bright and sunny. Red roofs, peering out of thick green foliage, a gleam of white among the palm trees, and a picturesque church-tower, formed the fore- ground to a valley of rustling cane, extending the circle of hills, whose links are here of a less elevation than in the other parts of the chain. To us, it looked a quiet, E 2 52 Eoraima. fertile little place, and, no doubt, uncommonly dull. Of its native products we only saw some very good white grapes, and some very indifferent cigars which were brought for sale. St. Kitts is the only one of the Leeward* Islands that can be said to pay its way ; the others seem to retrograde year by year. Now, how- ever, that the constitution of the islands has been changed to the Crown Colony system, an improvement may be expected, and the same progress looked forward to as in the Windward group. From Basseterre, the hill chain runs in a south- easterly direction in a series of low ridges covered with scrub mimosa, dwindling away until they reach the " Narrows," as the two-mile stretch of sea is called which separates Nevis from St. Kitts. A shallow dangerous passage is this, full of shoals and hidden reefs, and almost in its midst rises a sharp triangular rock. Across the "Narrows," a long low plain slopes up to a single cone, whose summit for ever sleeps in mist and clouds. Much bush covers the lower lands, but windmills here and there show that some cultivation is carried on, and light green patches of cane are seen divided by rows of cocoa-nut palms, which, in their blighted state, alas ! have more the appearance of feather dusters. A dreamy-looking little island is this Nevis, whose chief interest to a stranger lies in the tact that here Nelson lived after his marriage with Mrs. Nisbet for a few quiet years. We sped along swiftly past the graceful southern slope of old " Ben " — as the volcanic cone might be * Leeward Islands consist of Dominica, Antigua, Montserrat, Nevis, and St. Kitt's. Windward Islands consist of Barbadoes, St. Vincent, St. Lucia, Grenada, and Tobago. Montserrat. 63 called — but he would not deign to lift his fleecy cap to us, the shifty clouds merely paling or growing blacker, until they were lost to view. The steep and picturesque " Redondo " next claimed our attention. It is only a cavernous rock rising out of the waves, and sea-birds are its sole inhabitants. From it the eye wanders off to the more distant island of Montserrat, whose bold headland stands out in relief against the thickly wooded gorges which traverse the broken up- lands. In the centre, a three-headed mountain range, like a crouching Cerberus, guards the fruitful lemon groves and plantations that lie far below. How plea- sant it would be to spend a few days on each of these West Indian islands ! to visit their souffrieres, their mountain forests, their wild hills, and their cultivated estates ! but, at present, to set one's foot on land necessitates a two weeks' sojourn. Such being the case, and with Roraima ever beckoning me on, I had determined to halt only at Martinique and Trinidad before reaching British Guiana, and therefore glimpses — sometimes near and sometimes far — were all I could expect of the Antilles. It was night before we reached Antigua, but a full moon rendered the coast scene as clear as day, and added romantic effect to the lovely harbour. A bay within a bay, a semi-circle of wooded hills and ravines, a few white houses, lava cliffs which almost meet at the narrow entrance, and a rampart-crowned rock were the principal points in the picture. The basin in which the vessel lay moored by hawsers seemed but another sky, the stars scarcely quivering in the still deep water ; and, as the moon's rays silvered the sharp- leaved aloes, or touched with a bright gleam the angled S4 Roraima. forr, here softening the rough-edged tufa, and there defining more clearly the outlines of the palm groups, the whole scene wore a delightful aspect of unreality, which was heightened by the extreme quiet, broken only by an occasional plash of oars. From Antigua we crossed over to Guadeloupe, whose broad and irregular heights were hidden by clouds; as it was night when we coasted along, we saw little except cliffs, green pasture land, and ravines leading up into the heart of the mountains. Next morning we sighted Mariegalante, far away on our port side, and then, in broad daylight, for several hours, beautiful Dominica sat to us for her picture. Up to this time the various island scenes had been pretty, but could not have been called grand, but now the first glance raised our expec- tations to a high pitch. Nor were we disappointed, for a more lovely island, a finer combination of grandeur and quiet beauty, could hardly be found in the West Indies. Towards the north, the waves heat against a rock- bound shore, above which rise wooded hills, increasing in size until they join the seamed and contorted moun- tains. Here, in a retired village, dwell the Carib Indians, once the owners of the island. Reduced to a few score in numbers, these relics of a great tribe live peacefully under their own king, intermarry, hold but little inter- course with strangers, and seldom appear in the capital, Roseau, except now and then to sell their beauti- fully woven basket-work. On the western side, along which we coast, the sea-board extends further back ; there is not much cultivation, but in the bush clearings are a few cane-fields, and beyond, out of the green slop- ing lawns, spring many hills, some bare and craggy, Roseau. 55 others cultivated to the summit. Behind, rise the great mountains in a thousand fantastic shapes, here buried in forest, there frowning black and barren over some tree- filled gorge. Everywhere there is a romantic mingling of hill and vallev, mountain and gorge. Lifting clouds reveal wooded eminences crowning steep precipices, from whose feet the green sward stretches down in waves to the white beach, and, as the silver veil floats higher and higher, still loftier ridges are unbared, where the pale green of the sugar-cane is plainly dis- tinguished against the dark setting of the forest back- ground. So high and steep are the hills on which many of these cane-fields are perched that the crop, when cut, has to be let down in bundles by ropes At Roseau, where we stopped for an hour, we were gladdened by the sight of a river in which many washer- women were at work. The scene was very pleasing ; in the midet of palms and verdure, stood a pretty church and old grey and white houses with deep veran- dahs ; on the right was Government House, with diminutive fortifications, on the left, the land rolled up in cultivated terraces, and a magnificent ravine behind the town ran deep into the cloud-capped mountains. If Dominica is celebrated for anything, it is for its frogs, some of which are of enormous size. A curry of frogs' legs is a very delicate dish, and we were in great hopes that some grenouilles would have been brought on board alive, but they only brought the large crapauds, stuffed and varnished. A basketful of them, together with some huge beetles, was quickly disposed of, but a promised cargo of live ones never arrived. Roseau appeared to be an interesting place to pass a few days in, but we were assured by those who 56 Boraima. knew, that the accommodation was bad in the extreme, that there were no roads in the island, that it was dif- ficult to obtain riding animals, and that, if we wanted to carry away a pleasant memory of our English isle, we had better be contented with its view from the sea. So we sail on. Still the same fair scenery ; moun- tains gathered up " like a woven garment, and shaken into deep falling folds," here a velvet slope, there a gigantic rib, sharp but forest-covered, or a bare perpen- dicular clifF with its feet bathed by the sea. Now a farm nestling in some winding glen, overshadowed by brown-red rocks tipped with cane, and again a narrow fissure feathered with evergreen foliage, and opening into a deep bowl full of close and thick vegetation. Clouds rest on the mountain sides, or hanging above cast fitful shadows on upland and valley ; a hundred varying shades give colour to the landscape, and, over all, the blue sky, in perfect harmony with the green tints of earth, blends with the sparkling sea into one bright frame for the beautiful island. The land ends abruptly in a mass of grey rock, sparselv clad, which juts out into the sea. On its sum- mit stands a cross. Passing this corner, we see palm- covered slopes and gentle depressions, then a high needle-like cone with perpendicular sides rising from the ocean, and, beyond, the southern extremity of the central mountain range. Soon atter, Dominica fades from us in mist and rain. 57 CHAPTER VII. MABTINIQTJE — ST. PIERRE — MUSCULAR FEMALES — FEVER — GRANDE RUE— TAMARIND AVENUE— SAVANNA— SKETCHING FROM NATVRE — BOTANICAL GARDENS — MOUNTAIN CABBAGE PALM — THE GREAT TROPICAL FALLACY — WATER PALL- -THE LAKE — MUSEUM — A FORSAKEN GARDEN — TO MORNE ROUGE — COUNTRY LIFE — THE CALVARY. " Here the pilgrim may behold How the bended cocoa waves When at eve and morn a breeze Blows to and from the Carib seas, How the lush banana leaves From their braided trunk unfold ; How the mango wears its gold, And the sceptred aloe's bloom Glorifies it for the tomb." THE above lines, appropriate enough for any West India isle, yet for me associate themselves with Martinique more than with any other. It may be be- cause I lingered long enough to know that island better than the rest, or it may be because the remembrance of a certain ride across the rich country — a ride ever memorable as the most beautiful I had ever enjoyed, and which must be described later on — abides with me as a practical lesson in botany by nature herself. It was late in the afternoon when we anchored off St. Pierre — the chief town in Martinique. The cha- 58 Eovahna. racter of the island had not seemed quite so broken and romantic as Dominica, there was more low table-land and more cultivation, but the mountain range, with its grand pitons looking out over the clouds, gave promise to the expectant imagination of many beautiful scenes. From the roadstead, we saw in front of us houses thickly massed together and extending round the bay. Close behind the town, on the eastern side, rose a precipitous hill, crowned with waving sugar-cane, and its deep wooded side dotted with white villas. Towards the north, a broad ravine, through which a river ran, divided the town into two parts, and beyond rose the soft uplands, green with cane, and stretching to the delicately coloured hills which reached the high moun- tains in the background. On our right, the coast line was varied with rock, hill, and valley, and on one sum- mit a large white statue stood out conspicuously against the green foliage ; on our left, the palm-fringed shore, with here a solitary house, and there a little white village, ran northwards in a gently undulating line. On landing at St. Pierre the traveller finds himself the object of a popular demonstration; he is assailed by a swarm of stalwart women, some of whom dis- possess him of his book, umbrella, or whatever he may be carrying, whilst others, after a short fight among themselves, seize on the luggage, toss great port- manteaus and boxes on to their heads with the greatest of ease, and amid shouts of laughter rush off with loud cries, "Ala douane! a la douane !" It is useless to protest that you want to carry such and such a thing yourself, you may recapture it for a second, but it is lost again ; everything goes aloft on female heads and shoulders, and to avoid a similar fate yourself you St. Pierre. 59 follow in the wake of the flying Amazons and arrive at the Custom House. Then a strict inspection ensues, after which the luggage is remounted and a procession is formed to the hotel. We — one other passenger and myself — had been advised to go to the Hotel des Bains, so when our porters said of course " les Messieurs" were going to the " Hotel Micas," we answered of course not. Eventually we made out from the extraordinary Creole patois, that the former hotel was closed, and that its pro- prietor had opened the latter. We soon arrived there, and it looked clean and comfortable, but the land- lord was " desole," there was not a single vacant room ; " would the gentlemen be satisfied with a billiard table for to-night, then to-morrow ?" This offer was declined, and finally we found rooms in the Hotel du Commerce, a place of very second-rate pretensions, but with a very obliging proprietor. The first few days of my sojourn in this "Faubourg St. Germain of the tropics" — as the French love to call it — were certainly depressing. The heat was great, the food very indifferent, and the rain almost incessant. Much stress has been laid on the streams of clear, crystal water which here run through the streets. I should call them gutters, and, after one has seen the use to which they are put — the houses being entirely free from what we consider the most necessary require- ments — the crystal romance is dissipated. Fortunately, owing to the slope of the streets and the ample supply of water which is brought down through fine aque- ducts from the mountains, the flow is swift, and thus the gutters are kept pretty clean. Otherwise, the town of St, Pierre would be unbearable, as even now 60 Boraima. it rivals Cologne in the number of its smells. Under such conditions, it is not surprising that the stranger feels the effects of an " acclimatizing fever," as they here designate it. Morning after morning I awoke dull, listless, and tired, and with all sorts of pains and aches in my limbs, but as the day advanced health returned and fever was forgotten. St. Pierre is not a cheerful town even on its sunniest days; the streets are narrow, with side-walks of infini- tesimal dimensions, the old stone houses, with heavy outside shutters, are gloomy and comfortless, no bright verandahs attract the eye, and the roofs are dingy with moss-covered tiles. But the outskirts are more attract- ive, and the road to the Botanical Gardens particularly so. Passing up the Grande Rue towards the north, we see shops and stores filled with gay-coloured foulards, straw hats, finery of all sorts, and an excess of gold ornaments. On the left is the Batterie d'Esnotz, with a few seats under the shady trees, and affording a fine view over the sea. Farther on, some fine mangoes overshadow a heavy fountain, and soon our road turns off eastward before reaching the bridges which cross the intersecting river. We follow its left bank under a beautiful avenue of tamarinds, whilst on our right is the Savanna or public park. And here commences picturesque Martinique. Down below in the wide rocky ravine flows the brawling stream, alive with dusky " blanchisseuses," whose methodical beat on the smooth stones with the clothes they are washing, keeps time with their patois songs. White houses rise in tiers over the opposite bank, their gardens filled with many bright flowers, and crowning The Botanical Gardens^. 61 all are clusters of palms and ceiba groves. Across the Savanna rises the mountain screen that shades the town ; its steep side a perfect network of hanging vines. Here and there a mango has gained a precarious footing, its dark green dome contrasting well with the crimson blaze of a neighbouring Bois Immortelle;* and these lofty trees look like out-stretched arms on which is hung a close-textured mantle of flowering creepers. Far up, at the head of the cultivated river-valley, rise the moun- tains, whose dark gorges, veiled by almost constant mist, are arched by the most brilliant rainbows. In a few steps after leaving the Savanna, the Botanic Gardens are gained. At the time of my first visit the road outside was lined with cadets from the French training ship "Flore," who were sketching a hand- some Traveller's Tree — Ravenala speciosa — which grew near the entrance. A crowd of little urchins hovered about them, and it was very amusing to hear their outspoken opinions on the efforts of the different artists, who worked away with perfect composure. Several times afterwards I met the young scholars eagerly acquiring, under able tuition, that most desir- able accomplishment — sketching from nature. The Botanical Gardens are delightfully situated in a wide ravine through which a stream flows. Terraces have been cut out of the sides, and winding walks and avenues lead to pretty scenes and charming outlooks. Art here has done much in laying out the grounds and forming the various rills, fountains, and waterfalls, but nature has supplied a very beautiful site. Particularly beautiful is one avenue of " Palmistes Royals,"! * Erythrina umbrosa. t Oreodoxa oleracea ; called the mountain-cabbage because within the 62 Roraima. whose perfectly straight grey stems, ending in a light green shaft and crowned with a leafy diadem of dark green spreading leaves, form an aisle of living Co- rinthian pillars, seventy or eighty feet in height. This magnificent species of palm reminds me of an article which appeared in the June number of " Belgravia," 1878, entitled " The Great Tropical Fallacy." In it the writer declares that " waving sugar-cane, graceful bamboos, spreading tree ferns, magnificent palms, &c., may be found ac Kew, but not in the tropics." He also savs " a true fern can scarcely be seen through the foul mouldering fronds that cling around its musty stem." The amusing article certainly would dispel " The Great Tropical Fallacy," if it was true, but it can only have been written as a joke, as the writer adds that he has " lived for years in the tropics, but never yet beheld an alligator, an iguana, a toucan, or an antelope in their wild state. Scorpions do not occur." It is an undoubted fact that these creatures — with the exception of scorpions — do not frequent the streets of towns or villages, nor are they much addicted to highway travel- ling, but had the writer ever visited " the bush," or walked in the "country," I think he would have hesi- tated before making such a statement, that is, sup- posing he has the full use of his eyesight and has lived where these animals exist. As regards the palm, it is true that cocoa-nut trees, especially when blighted, are not very imposing ; but CL-ntral spike lies concealed the cabbage, composed ot white longitudinal flakes forming a crisp compact body. When cut up into thin ribands and boiled, it is served as a vegetable with meat. As all palm trees possess this eatable spike, it is hard to tell why this species should in particular be called the " cabbage." Tlie Botanical Gardens. 63 there are many other splendid species, and to depreciate the mountain cabbage-palms is to be guilty of high treason against the princes of the forest. They are simply wonderful. To admire them it is not necessary to be a pantheist, or one of those to whom a forest is a cathedral, each tree a missionary, and every flving creature a sacred spirit ; one who bows down at the sight of a daisy or buttercup, and kneels before an oak as the wild Indian does before his ceiba. For these palms are so matchless in grace, so simple and yet so stately, that they lend an indescribable air of dignity to auy spot where they may chance to grow. To return to the garden. Leaving the palm avenue one comes suddenly upon a beautiful waterfall rushing down a steep rock amidst a mass of hanging grasses, ferns, and waving cannas. A little way below it runs into the heart of a garden-wilderness rich with bam- boos, plantains, thickets of tangled vines, and fragrant coffee trees. Here shrubs and trees are more cultivated than flowers, but the former with their brilliant blos- soms save the place from the monotonous effect of a too prevailing green. Gloxinias and primulas are scattered over the sloping banks, and overhead are interlaced the branches of various trees. The bright flowers of the " Flamboyant,"* form a red canopy which vies in rich- ness with the large crimson blossoms of the mountain rose.f Here may be seen South Sea Island bread-fruit, cinnamon from Ceylon, and sandal-wood from the Marquesas. That tree with bunches of wax-like and pear-shaped fruit is a Eugenia ; J its trunk is a perfect fernery, and its branches are hung with parasites. Next to a stilted pandanus rises a tall " poui " with * Carolinea. •)■ Brownea J Eugenia Michellii. 64 Roraima. saffron flowers, and beyond are the long white trumpets of a datura. Close at hand is the much prized per- simmon of Japan, having a wood like ebony, and a reddish-yellow fruit. The ground is everywhere strewn with the red beads of an erythrina, and occasionally the large uneatable fruit of a species of inga comes down with a thump, that a passer by, if hit, would not soon forget. Perhaps the prettiest spot in the garden is a small lake fed by a slender fall, whose water trickles down a moss-covered rock through ferns and drooping grasses. The three tiny islets are fringed with arums, heliconias, and bamboos, amongst which are scattered dark glossy green and gold-marbled crotons, purple draccenas, and crimson hybiscus blossoms. In the centre of each stands a " Traveller's Tree," like a gigantic fan, sur- rounded with a few flowering shrubs and graceful plantains. But here as elsewhere, there is an air of neglect, the shady walks are full of weeds, the stone seats under the trees are damp and green, a broken canoe half full of water lies on the yielding bank, the few remaining tree labels are illegible, and, in a word, the gardens are not tended as they deserve. Their charm seems to have vanished with their novelty, as they are seldom visited by the inhabitants, and the funds granted for their maintenance are insufficient. Within the grounds there is a building which con- tains a small natural history museum, and the native products form a very interesting collection. There is also an interior nursery-garden, where some delicate orchids and rare exotics are reared. A primitive people these French Creoles must be, as a printed notice strictly prohibits bathing in the Drive to Morne Rouge. 65 small fountains in this inside garden. Unhappily the people appear disinclined even to walk in the pleasant grounds, and the casual visitor feels that a time may come when the few labourers will be withdrawn and a " Forsaken Garden " realised : " Not a flower to be prest of the foot that falls not ; As the heart of a dead man the seed plots are dry ; From the thicket of thorns when the nightingale calls not, Could she call, there were never a rose to reply. Over the meadows that blossom and wither Rings but the note of a sea-bird's song, Only the sun and the rain come hither All year long."* One of the pleasantest drives from St. Pierre is to Morne Rouge. The village is situated high up in the hills, and near it and cut out of a rocky wall is a celebrated grotto dedicated to " Our Lady of Lourdes." Morne Rouge is one of the localities which the negroes say is at certain seasons visited by the celebrated Dominican Friar, Pere Labat, who arrived in Mar- tinique in 1693. He is said to appear in the guise of a lambent flame. The road thither passes the Botanical Gardens, and for some distance is lined with country houses standing in pretty grounds. It was in one of these villas that the Empress Josephine was born. The hedges and banks are covered with blue flowers of the *' ipomasa " and the buff-coloured " thumbergia," whose dark brown eye attracts the attention of numerous humming birds. The houses for the most part look cool, but com- fortless and devoid of privacy. The foliage of the tall trees shades them, but the bare trunks leave an * Swinburne. F 66 Boraima. uninterrupted view into the interior. Here, one sees Madame in a very airy costume enjoying her early coffee; there, Monsieur in his dressing-gown lounges on a long cane chair. Grass is conspicuous by its absence, but rich and gaudy flowers are in abundance. Tall yuccas guard the entrance, and the lavender spikes of the "petroea" cluster over the verandahs. Many varieties of "dracoena" are scattered about, their slender stems and bending blades contrasting well with the showy hvbiscus and the bright green bananas. In each garden one sees a tall clavija, like a giant papau, and with panicles of the fragrant white flowers beloved by Creoles. Thick stone walls surround some ot the villas, but tropical nature heeds no such barriers. Creepers of every hue fling themselves over, then catching the hanging air-roots scramble up to the tree-tops and mingle their blossoms with those of their more lofty brethren. Among the numerous trees with hanging pods, the " rosary bean "* is very prominent, as the curled and split pod displays the bright red seeds within. Gradually the houses are left behind, and the road becomes more steep and winding. The high banks are thickly carpeted with begonias, both pink and white. From a neighbouring hill a high waterfall — caused by a deflected stream — descends and turns the wheel of a sugar-mill situated at its foot. At last we reach the village of Morne Rouge. A long straggling street with pretty cottages and gardens. From trellis-work hang great granadillas, fruit which is only palatable when cunningly compounded with sugar, ice, and wine. The life around is simple, but * Abrus precatoria. Splendid View, 67 full of colour, and picturesque. Old women spin in the doorways. Mothers, with bright kerchiefs round their heads, watch their children playing in the road. The children themselves, often only dressed in a plain suit of gold earrings, have fresh, happy faces, brighter and ruddier by far than those in the hot town below. Round the fountain are groups of girls with water-jars poised on their heads, and in the bright sunshine each touch of red and blue in their dress shines out clearly and effectively. From this fountain a beautiful view is obtained seaward, but from the higher Calvary there is a more extended landscape. The prayer-stations leading to the chapel stand between hybiscus hedges, and are surrounded with roses, lilies, azaleas, and palms. The little shrines contained terra cotta re- presentations of the Passion, but the protecting glass was broken and the figures were defaced. Within them green lizards played at hide and seek, and humming birds searched the flower-offerings that had been thrust through the torn grating. The view from the top is worth the climb. On one side a mass of undulating hills sweeps off^ to the sea ; through the intervening pasture land a winding stream threads its way, and here and there a cottage is seen half buried in clumps of palms and bamboos, and with its cane patch or banana grove. The lofty " pitons " form the background. Below us lies the village, and extending westward towards St. Pierre are cane- covered hills, fertile valleys, and a broad cultivated plain, squared like a chess-board by the dividing palm rows. Beyond rises the glittering blue sea far into the sky, white sails catch the sunbeams, and nearer is the dark line of anchored ships. On rare occasions F 2 68 Boraima. — one of which favoured me — rounded masses of fleecy clouds of intense brilliancy float over land and sea, and pour down such a flood of light that the panorama is illuminated. The white glare is almost painful, but the strong sea-breeze soon drives the wandering rain-heralds back to the mountains, where they wreathe themselves round the higher peaks and lie like snow-drifts in the hollows between the sum- mits. And thus the scene changes from sunshine to shade, from rest to storm, and from light to darkness, each a life-phase typical in itself, but not more significant than the solemn Calvary above us in its bright frame of green trees and flowers. 69 CHAPTER VIII. A GALA DAY— COSTtTMES— CINQ-CLOUS — BATTERTE d'ESNOTY — A CASSAVA FARM — PANDEMONIUM— PREPARATION OF CASSAVA — A " catch"— COUNTRY SCENES — FRESH ATMOSPHERE— A STORM — RAINBOWS— FOREST SCENES— TROPICAL VEGETATION — NOON-DAY HALT. ON Sundays and gala days St. Pierre brightens up. The band plays in the Savanna, and thither the inhabitants flock. In the matter of carriages and horses, Rotten Row would certainly outvie this favourite drive, but in brilliancy of colour the latter would carry the day. On ordinary occasions the Creole woman is content with a simple long-flowing dress of light material, but on state occasions her costume is bright and picturesque. Then you see a bewildering display of silk or satin skirts, short enough not to hide a daintily shod foot ; embroidered bodices and gauzy scarfs, a profusion of necklaces and bracelets, all of plain gold — for precious stones are never worn — and jaunty turbans ornamented with gold pins and brooches. But the most striking as well as the commonest feature in the national costume of Martinique is the quaint earrings — cinq-clous. These consist of five gold tubes welded together at the sides into a circular form, not unlike the barrels of a revolver, and vary in size from 1 Roraima. the dimensions of a toy pistol to those of a full grown Colt's. Many girls carry their entire future in their ears. Those splendid beds of tulips were not in the Savanna when we last passed through ! As we approach, we see they are not composed of flowers, but are merely gorgeous head-dresses. Another trait, and a charming one too, of Martinique costume. Here you see no dyed feathers, or artificial flowers and fruits, decorating the flashy hats and bonnets so dear to the negro soul. Bright coloured foulards, twisted into various pyramidal, circular, and oval shapes, crown every head with rainbow hues. There are ten difl^erent ways of tying these kerchiefs, and the initiated can tell by the twist whence the wearer comes Near the band is a motley group. Two or three old negresses dressed in flowered chintz, and with trimly turned head-dresses gossip over the last scandal ; slowly sweeping along comes a majestic creature, her long white dress hitched up on one side and displaying a foot neatly blacked by nature; in that family coach are some white Creole ladies with charming faces, and tastefully dressed in the latest Parisian fashion, while the youngsters who force their bouquets on them are habited in little else than " native " worth. The excite- ment is of the mildest kind, but enjoyment is universal. Here and there some little maidens dance to the music, boys run races, the elders give the prizes, handsome carriages and wretched ^f^rr^j continue their monotonous round, and meeting is so perpetual that everybody smiles at everybody else, till at length the sun goes down. Then the vehicles are turned towards home, dandies prance ofi^ on their rocking horses, old. ladies Cassava. 71 put up their umbrellas against the dew, peasants take off their shoes preparatory to their homeward tramp, and very soon the Savanna is deserted. Wonderfully clear are the nights in Martinique. You see distinct shadows, and on looking up for the moon you find they are cast by a star (Venus probably) shining with a radiance of most remarkable power. From the Batterie d'Esnoty you look down on a sparkling sea in which every vessel stands out dis- tinctly. You can almost count the piles of merchand- ise and barrels on the wharf It is so quiet that you can catch the words of the song that the black crew are singing as they pull to shore from some outlying ship, and their strange rising and falling to each stroke is plainly visible. Suddenly a hideous bray rings out close beside you. It comes from one of three buglers who make this their starting point, and in turn repeat the discordant sounds until they reach their distant barracks. This is the Martinique tattoo. The stranger in St. Pierre will notice the quantity of thin white cakes about the size of a cart wheel. These are made from cassava* which here, as in many of the islands, and in parts of South America, affords the chief sustenance of the poorer classes. We drove out one day to a farm to witness its manufacture. We soon came to fields covered with the plant, which grows to a height of about four feet. In appearance it is a slender-knotted grey stem, with branches at the top from which spring red stalks of broad digitated leaves. The root, which is cylindrical and about a foot long, is a deadly poison in its natural state, but by a simple process it is converted into * Jatropha manihot. 72 Roraima. nutritious food. As we approached the wattled shed in which it was being prepared, we heard sounds of a veritable pandemonium. On looking in, we saw thirty or forty jet black Africans stripped to the skin and furiously grating the white roots against a rough board, the meal falling into great tubs. The exertion was apparently immense, as they steamed with perspiration, and, as if the fumes of the poison got into their heads, they would every now and then utter yells or bound into the air. To this wild scene there was a musical accompaniment. The instru- ments consisted of tom-toms, pipes, chac-chacs, and long bamboos, struck by pieces of wood, and a strange concern made of cane-work, from which issued a grating sound by drawing a stick quickly up and down. Music from such sources was not likely to be of a high order, but it was conscientiously gone through at all events. All that lungs could blow was blown; all that fists could do to break a drum skin was done. White, eyes rolled, black lips blew, and black fists struck. The " grater " sounded worse than the grating, and the monotonous chant of one of the performers was more horrible than the howls of the workers. Never had I heard a like "charivari." " lis ont de la couleur," said the pleased proprietor, as he rubbed his hand and glanced at the rapidly filling tubs. The next operation is to get rid of the poisonons juices. Here, as the factory was on a large scale, the meal was put into a great sort of oven and the poison extracted by heat or pressure. But the usual mode, and the one invariably applied by the Indians of Guiana, where in after-days I many a time witnessed the operation, is as follows : A long plaited tube — matapi — made of a certain reed is Cassava Bread. 73 filled with the grated meal ; its upper end is fastened to a beam so that its lower end, which pos- sesses a loop-hole, hangs a few feet from the ground. A pole is then passed through the loop and the shorter end firmly fixed so that the longer, when pressed down, serves as a lever ; the elastic tube presses the meal together, and the poisonous juice escapes through the interstices. The flour is then dried and sifted. When required for use, a handful is baked over a fire on a flat plate, and in a few minutes " cassava bread," resembling an enormous oatmeal cake, is ready. If required for a journey, it is thoroughly dried in the sun until it is as hard as a nail, and will then last for months; if not properly dried, it quickly gets mouldy and uneat- able. Cassiripe, which is the extracted poison-juice of cassava, is the foundation of the well-known " pepper pot," which is an " olla podrida " of meat and peppers cooked in an earthen pot, and always on hand in the West Indies. Fortunately, the deleterious principle of the juice is so volatile that it is entirely dissipated by heat, and it then becomes a wholesome seasoning; and thus the good is extracted from the evil in this strange blending of life and death, as exhibited in the cassava root. That evening, before we reached home, we witnessed a scene of excitement. As we drove along the sea- shore there was a sudden rush of people to the beach, boats were pushed hurriedly out, men jumped into the water and swam out, women waded up to their knees and ran back again, and children did their best to get drowned. Presently, a series of long nets formed a semi-circle and enclosed a large shoal of sardines which had been the cause of the uproar. Gradually 74 Boraima. the nets were drawn in, and so large was the haul that in a few minutes five boats were filled with the little silvery fish. Buckets, barrels, baskets, and cans were then put into requisition, and, even after every article from the neighbouring cottages that could hold a fish had done its duty, there were still sardines enough left on the beach to have stocked a market. Next morning I started for a ride across the island to Trinite, a distance of about thirty miles. The scenery on the road had been so extolled that I attributed enthusiastic descriptions of it to patriotism, and was prepared for a disappointment. When I returned, 1 acknowledged it was the most beautiful ride I had ever taken, and one whose like I should probably never see again. It was dawn when my mule drew up at the hotel door, and we were soon clattering over the rough cobble stones which pave the narrow streets. We passed the Promenade, which was deserted by all save a solitary sentry, who slept in his box under the Palace of the Archbishop, and then the road com- menced to wind up the hill under whose shadow the town lay, dark and quiet. Before we reached the top it was broad daylight, the great crimson blossoms of the hybiscus and the fragile bells of the abutilon, which we had left sleeping below, were now unfolded, and the white flowers of the night cereus and of the ipomasa, had already drooped and faded. For some distance beyond the summit the road is walled in with sugar-cane, then bends inwards towards the mountains by a gentle acclivity. Here and there, one passes a little cabaret de ferme^ where the market people are drinking coffee, or, more probably, rum. A Ride to T finite. 75 Down in the valley lie cottages and farms, and the hill-sides are flecked with groups of trees, whose light and dark green foliage is very conspicuous. Fine mango trees are dotted about here and there, and fringing rocky heights, or clustered in hollows, are aloes in various stages of their growth ; some fully flowered and rapidly collapsing, others whose tall stalks are covered with fresh blooms, and more still whose rich green expanding heart is suggestive of a thyrsus — "thro' the blooms of a garland the point of a spear." On approaching a small and picturesque village, cane culture is superseded by cassava, and the country be- comes more rugged and grander. Cottages are perched upon jutting clifi^s, and immediately above the road is situated a delightfully quaint old church, which is reached by a flight of rough stone steps. Near this, a large wooden cross overlooks the valley. The view looking west is lovely. Afar off^ is the bright blue sea, to which extend the mountain arms and the un- dulating hill spurs. The valleys between are partly tilled and partly bush-covered, and the few houses stand in garden patches high up on the hill slopes. Through the central valley a twisting thread of green, darker than the surrounding foliage, marks the course of a stream, and clumps of trees of a similar contrast- ing hue, above and around us, show where orange groves and mangoes lie amid the paler green of cane fields and bananas. Behind rise the forest-clad peaks of the mountains, through which runs the road to Trinite. Up to this point we had enjoyed a very beautiful morning. Here spring was in the air, and we had 76 lioraima. left hot summer below. There was such fulness of life in the cool air that all nature seemed affected by it. The flowers looked brighter, the birds sang sweeter, and even the running water seemed to tinkle with a more silvery sound than in the valleys. A simple circumstance, but one that impressed me very vividly, occurred as I was looking over the blue shadowed valley. An old peasant woman, very brown and wrinkled, laid a bunch of flowers on the cross, and as she knelt at its foot an oriole flew on to one of its arms and poured forth such a trill that it seemed as if the bird-voice was carrying aloft her mumbled prayers. When she entered the church a few minutes later, tears were in her eyes, but she looked so happy that I am sure the bird had not sung in vain. The romance of the little episode was' injured by an unsentimental goat who completely demolished the flower-offering, and then tried to butt some children who had done nothinor o to offend it. They, however, did not seem to mind it, and laughed merrily at the antics of the creature. These children's voices were just what was wanted to give a charming finish to the bright picture. What the flowers were to the garden, the stream to the valley, the birds to the air, and the sun's rays to all, were the happy child-tones to the surrounding scene, gladdening everything in accord with each, and freshening with rippling music the fragrant up- lands : " Ah, what would thi- world be to us If the children came no more ? We should dread the desert behind us More than the liark. before." I had hardly whispered these lines to my mule before A Storm. 77 the last two words sounded ominous. The animal showed signs of uneasiness which could not be attributed to the verse ; for among his many faults a mule cannot be accused of sentimentality, and he cares as little for poetry as he does for a stick. He is so stubborn and self-willed, and yet carries it off with such a nonchalant air, that there is no way of knowing what may be passing in his mind, except by watching his restless ears. Fortunately, these appendages are so expressive — more so in fact than some human faces — that they explain his feelings and foretell his move- ments. On this occasion they were suddenly pointed straight forward, and as suddenly laid limp on his neck, then pricked again. The air grew hot and still, a black mist was de- scending on us from the now hidden mountains, and it was plain that a heavy storm was about to break. On looking round, I saw a hand beckoning to me from a door, and in a few minutes my mule was under cover, and I found myself in a clean room drinking coffee with the kind hostess. Then the rain came down in torrents, and held me prisoner for some time. Here I saw one of those terrible snakes known as the " Fer-de-lance," which had been killed not long before on the road to Trinite by the old lady's husband, who had preserved it in ajar of spirits. At the first lull we started again, and soon reached a stream spanned by a stone bridge of a single arch. This we crossed, and in a few minutes entered the forest ravine. Turning in the saddle, I was dazzled by a brilliant rainbow, which in a broad band struck the bridge at a right angle. It was so close that I could not resist the novelty of riding back into the 78 Roraima. middle of it. Then it danced off up the deep bed of the river, and before I re-entered the forest it had formed a bow, stretching across the mountain sides like a grand triumphal arch. A last look from the wooded portals revealed a bright blue sky and the sun shining over the lowlands, whilst around us the rain still fell, and through the dripping branches of the trees that met overhead only dull grey clouds were visible. Here commenced a series of mountain pictures in bewildering varietv. For almost all the rest of the journey the path runs up and down hill, with a deep ravine sometimes on one hand and sometimes on the other Through the ravine runs a stream, on the other side of which the mountain rises in a grand and almost perpendicular wall. On the near side the path is edged with banks which slope away to the higher hills, and diversified with glens and hollows, and an occasional overhanging rock. The vegetation is of the most luxuriant description, as numerous waterfalls descend from both the moun- tain sides, here crossing the path in a broad stream, and there trickling down in a slender thread, which loses itself in thick ferns and grasses. Each turn in the road presents some new combination of rock, tree, and falling water. You emerge from an avenue of bamboos, to enter another arched over by the fronds of magnificent tree-ferns. The latter grow every- where ; you look up at their rough fibrous stems, and you look down into their very hearts. The banks are covered with begonias and primulas ; above these rise the dark green blades of plantains, or dark green heliconias, with their red and yellow flowers. Then come the great forest trees, such as the locust. Tropical Vegetation. 79 the angelim, the bois violon (fiddle wood), the bois immortelle, &c. Of begonias I counted four varieties, one of which was sweet-scented. For some time I searched, wondering whence the delicious fragrance — verv like that of the lily of the valley — came. I had never heard of a sweet-scented begonia, but at last I discovered one, and gathered a large bunch of the delicious blossoms. The flowers of this variety were very small and of a pink colour, but the elephant- eared leaves were as large as those of much finer flowering species. 1 regret much that I did not endeavour to transplant some specimens, as I have since heard that a scented begonia is unknown. The extraordinary wealth of tropical vegetation was such that, in spite of heavy rain, I constantly stood for many minutes lost in astonishment. And there was no ques- tioning the down-pour ; sometimes a perfect stream would enter the sensitive ears of the mule, and the poor animal would actually squeal and kick, and then droop, until he presented a spectacle of abject misery. Thoughts of fever hovered about me, but I had a change of clothes in my saddle-bags, and even without it I doubt whether I could have hastened my steps, so fascinating was the scenery. Our progress had been so slow that it was noon before little more than half the distance had been accomplished. Then a certam spot offered such irresistible attractions for a halt that I picketed old Solomon — as the mule had been named —under a hanging rock, and lunched. There could not have been a prettier place, with its rich banks of flowers, feathery bamboos, and silvery fall, trickling down 80 Boraima. through a fernery of frail, shivering beauty. Across the wild ravine rose a perpendicular mass of black rock, hung with long waving grasses and tufts of green. Large trees clung to its side where there was, apparently, no root-hold, and their branches were loaded with orchids and red-spiked bromelias. The only sounds were the pattering of the rain- drops and the murmur of the rapids below, which foamed over the rough stones that were hidden by the fringing arums, bamboos, and branching ferns. Suddenly a whirring sound broke the silence, and I immediately saw a "Purple Carib"* humming-bird, hovering over a flowering vine. It was the first time I had ever seen one of this beautiful species alive, and he seemed determined I should not forget him. After every plunge into a flower, he retired to a favourite branch and preened his velvex black feathers and shook his wings, until their metallic green and the deep purple of the throat flashed again and again. His resting-place was a magnolia tree — numbers of which line this woodland path — and the dark, shining wet leaves formed a lovely frame for the dainty oiseau- mouche. He looked like a living gem, set in green enamel, and diamond sprays. I saw no other birds, and the silent woods raised in me a fancy to pull the long bell-ropes hanging from the trees, and thus set the forest chiming. I did so, and got nothing but a shower bath ; and the falling leaves and sticks stilled for a moment the melancholy croak of the trogs, in their perpetual lament for the departed Indian race, " Ca-rib, Ca-rib." Then I saddled Solomon, and we resumed our journey. * Eulampis Jugularis. Prospect over Trinite. 81 There is little more to describe. Everywhere beautiful scenes, and blending of loveliness and grandeur. Sometimes from the overhanging cliffs a landslip, caused by the heavy rains, rendered the path — which, with a very little trouble, might be made good enough for a carriage — almost impassable ; otherwise, the road is remarkably easy and free from obstructions. The finest view remains for the last. When the highest point to which the road ascends is reached, a narrow ridge, with a deep ravine on each side, com- mands a magnificent prospect over Trinite to the sea. Near bv are rocky gorges, mountain peaks, and half hidden glades. The rank vegetation forms green vistas above the descending terraces, and through them shines the deep blue water, out of which rise the bold outlines of Dominica on one side, and St. Lucia on the other. That these islands are visible, I only know from hearsav, as mist and clouds en- shrouded so much of the landscape that I could only form an idea of what its beauty would be on a clear day. In rain I went to Trinite and in rain I returned. No feeling of ill-will towards the weather was felt by me, but rather one of gratitude, as, had it not been for the rain, I might never have torn myself from those enchanted grounds. It was my last and pleasantest excursion in Martinique. 82 CHAPTER IX. A CURIO HUNTER— FORT DE FRANCE— BATHS OF DIDIER — DIA- MOND ROCK — FLYING-FISH TRADE— BARBADOES — CARLISLE BAY — HOAD's — TRAFALGAR SQUARE— THE ICE HOUSE— ST. ANN'S — SCOTLAND — CONFEDERATION— COAST OP TOBAGO— BIRDS OP TOBAGO— FAUNA OF THE WEST INDIES. " ^ /"EO-HO, bovs, ho, yeo-ho," rang out merrily I from the crew, and before the last notes of " Nancy Lee " had died away, the * Eider ' was slowly steaming from Martinique on her way to Barbadoes. A slight delay had been occasioned by the prolonged absence of one of the passengers who was an enthusi- astic curiosity hunter, and who, having rifled the other islands and bought up all the frogs and beetles at . Dominica, had gone on shore to buy Eau de Cologne, dolls in native costume, and the various liqueurs for which Martinique is celebrated. Soon we pass Fort de France — the Fort Royal of Imperial days — which is nominally the capital of Martinique, though far inferior in size and population to St. Pierre. A small steamer runs daily between the two places, and Fort de France is well worth a visit. The fine harbour and the pretty town, backed by the great Piton, are more thoroughly tropical in their surroundings than is St. Pierre. In the neigh-' Defence of Diamond Rock. 83 bourhood are some picturesque walks, and the " Baths of Didier," where there are some mineral springs, is a very favourite resort. In the outskirts dwell a few of the Carib Indians, who occupy themselves with their peculiar basket work. It is a quiet little town, but gains an air of industry and life from the freighted wharfs and the busy dockyard with its spacious floating dock. From the deck of the ' Eider ' all eyes are centered on a steep island pyramid, which rises out of the water to a height of about five hundred and fifty feet. This is the celebrated " Diamond Rock," whose history forms a memorable page in the annals of the West Indies, where nearly every link in the chain of the Antilles has been the scene of England's naval warfare. The well-known storv may be briefly related as follows. In 1804, the English admiral determined to prevent the escape of PVench ships, which hitherto had baffled him by running between this rock and the opposite Diamond Point into Fort Royal harbour. The deep water that surrounded the almost perpen- dicular rock permitted an anchorage within a few feet of its side. The admiral therefore laid his ship, the 'Centaur,' close alongside, and performed the surprising feat of hoisting heavy guns from the top- sail yard-arm, and mounting them on the summit of this improvised fortress. Here Captain Morris was established, with men, ammunition, water, and pro- visions, and the rock was recognised at the Admiralty, as His Majesty's ship ' Diamond Rock.' For months the gallant captain and his crew defied the exertions of the French to dislodge them, destroying their merchant c 2 84 Rora'ima. vessels and gun-boats, and harassing them to despera- tion. Finally, want of water and ammunition neces- sitated a surrender, and the rock-ship was once more untenanted. On approaching Barbadoes, it is surprising to see the vast shoals of flying-fish. Like flights of silver arrows they shoot over the water on all sides, and just as you are beginning to think they must be birds, down they drop into the waves. No wonder that the catching of them is a trade in that island, and that flying-fish in Barbadoes is the staff of life — and a very delicious one. No time is lost in their pursuit, nets surround them by day, and at night, by means of an attractive lantern, they fly against the outspread sail and fall victims by the hundred. After Martinique and Dominica, the appearance of Barbadoes is flat and tame. One misses the central hill range, which is so marked a feature in the other islands. The wide-stretching fields of bright green cane, and the windmills, recall Santa Cruz. Like that island, Barbadoes, when discovered by the Portuguese in the early part of the sixteenth century, was covered with thick forest. From nianv of the trees hungr the beard-like Tillandsia, whence arose the island's name. In the present day there is no forest, and the one little wood, with its boiling spring, is reckoned among the " lions" of Barbadoes. But if the island is devoid of great physical beauty, it is interesting, as being the most ancient colony in the British Empire, one also that has never changed hands, and the only one which thrives — or shall I say has thriven— without foreign labour. From Carlisle Bay, the harbour of BridQ-etown VletLJ from Carlisle Bay. 85 which is the capital of the island, the view is one of bright colour. One sees gleaming sands broken on by blue water, and edged with deep green avicennias, with here and there a bending cocoa-nut palm. From the busy wharfs white houses extend back into the country to a limestone ridge, and to the undulating hills which are covered with sugar-cane and dotted with lines of palms, leading to the planters' houses. White roads wind through the green fields, and a church tower peeps over the shady trees ; a windmill rises above a cluster of cottages, and near by is the tall smoking chimney of a sugar factory. There are no clouds in the intensely blue sky to cast their shadows, and the breeze rushes across the cane slopes in white green waves. On all, the sun pours down with a pitiless glare, and its strong light brings to full view the finished cultivation and well- to-do aspect of the island. " Passengers for Bimshire all aboard," was the cry, as the ship's cutter pulled for the shore, thus dis- appointing the clamorous native crews of several expected fees. Presently we landed in Bimshire — as Barbadoes is sometimes called — and were at once surrounded by an agitated crowd of " Bims," both black and white. As there are no hotels — properly so-called — our lu2;g;ag;e was carried to " Hoad's," the best boarding house ; and after escaping numerous blind beggars who pursued us from the wharf, we were soon ensconced in clean lodgings. Here we found small but comfortable rooms, good food — flying-fish served in two or three different forms being particularly tempting — and indifferent bathing accommodation. 86 Roraima. After Martinique, where there are no mosquitoes, one looks disconsolately at the stuffy nettings, and cannot help wondering why the detestable insects should patronize the English islands and not the French. The Barbadian mosquito is of an exception- ally dissipated disposition, as it keeps up its revels far into the morning, and with the heat increases the misery of the late as well as of the early riser. As may be expected in an island whose population averages a thousand to the square mile, Bridgetown swarms with negroes, whose high-pitched voices and incessant *' talk " effectually relieve the streets of any air of dulness. The town is not imposing. Its archi- tectural features are collected in Trafalgar Square, where are situated the Government Buildings. Their style, though striking, is a marvellous blending of Gothic and Venetian architecture, mixed with bow windows and Moorish arches, and as much out of keeping with the adjacent Cathedral as the National Gallery in London is with its neighbouring Church of St. Martin. The statue of Nelson, which stands in the centre of the square, cannot be considered as com- plimientary to the great admiral, and in its present condition fairly represents " the triumph of Nature over Art." Shops, stores, and warehouses are good and thriving, and, last but not least, there is an excellent tea-house, which is an institution peculiar to the West Indies. It vies with the club as a place of resort, contains a restaurant, and a well-kept bar, provides the latest papers, and disseminates the freshest news. In the matter of ice, which is of no small importance in hot climates, the English are ahead of the French. St. Ann's. 87 Here it is admitted free, I believe, of duty, whilst in Martinique it is heavily taxed and monopolized. Most of the white inhabitants live in the suburbs of the town, and in a drive one passes many pretty villas and pleasant gardens. The roads leading to them are lined with negro huts and cabins, shaded by flowering trees, and now and then surrounded by an ill-tended garden plot. On some of these abodes we noticed hanging- boards, on which quaint greetings had been written ; one of these bore the words, " A mery Krismas and a hapy New ear to everybody ;" on another was printed, " Welcum home i and all." Towards evening carriages wend their way past the seaside villages of Hastings and Worthing, or, when the band plays at St. Ann's, stop there to listen to it. The latter appeared to me to be the most agreeable place in or around Bridgetown. The barracks are situated there, and fronting them is a fine savanna, surrounded by shady avenues. Here there is the race course, the cricket ground, a ball court, theatre, and opportunity for the various amusements which relieve the monotony of life in the tropics, and which, fortunately, are always to be found where England has established her garrisons. I should have liked to have visited " Scotland," as the northern part of the island is called, for it is said to be picturesque and interesting, but time would not permit. Mount Hillaby, which has the highest elevation, is not quite 1 200 feet in height, but the scenery is bold and mountainous, though of course on a small scale. About twelve miles from Bridgetown is Codrinfton College, and above it, near the edge of a clifl;, stands 88 Roraima. the old St. John's Church, celebrated for containing in its churchyard the tomb of a Pala^ologus, supposed to be the last descendant of the Christian Emperors of Greece. At the time of my visit, the island was somewhat excited over impending Government changes, and the "storm in a tea cup," raised by the late Governor, Mr. Pope Hennessy, had not subsided. The scheme of confederating it with Tobago, St. Lucia, St. Vincent, and Grenada met with strong opposition. The Lee- ward Confederation had not proved a success, and the barbadians objected to having the Windward group joined to them in the same way. Very conservative in their manners and customs, the white inhabitants look with no friendly eye on change and innovation; but I have heard it said, by some whose opinion was valuable, that the Crown Colony system would eventu- ally prove the saving of the island. There were rumours too of fresh negro disturbances; provision grounds were pillaged daily, and the already incredibly conceited blacks were growing more and more pre- tentious. No other negro can come up to a Barbadian in impudence. If in any of the other islands you meet or hear of a case of peculiar insolence, the oftender is sure to be a Barbadian. " You do not like me," says the deservedly-rebuked servant, "find one more bettar," and then walks off. In Barbadoes, you hear that only the worst negroes leave the island, as their love for it is so great that few can be induced to emigrate, in spite of small wages. In time, however, even the most home-loving may find himself compelled to agree with the African philosopher, who, when asked what he thought of Tohago. 89 freedom, replied, " Well, sir, freedom is a mighty fine thing, but I can't eat freedom, and I can't wear free- dom, and now I'se got to export myself." Two days were all that were allowed us in Barbadoes, and then the steamer arrived to carry us to Tobago and Trinidad. On approaching Tobago from the north, the island presents a mass of high hills, terminating in abrupt precipices. Heavy forests clothe the central ridge and the hill spurs which spring from it. There is hardly a break in the luxuriant vegetation, and except here and there, where a patch in the valleys or on the hill sides has been cleared for cultivation, not a single bare spot is to be seen. We skirt the small island of Little Tobago, the haunt of boobies and tropic birds, and then come in sight of a pretty estate on the main-land, which greatly brightens the wild and gloomy scenery. Soon we round a point, and anchor in Scarborough Bay. On the rig^ht rises a hill, crowned bv the dismantled fort of St. George. Below it, and forming the central feature, lies a cluster of grey, steep- roofed houses, grouped on a low conical hill which slopes towards the water, and ends in a steep bank fringed with bamboos. On the left, cane-fields extend from the shore far back over the undulating land to the hill-range, which curves round in a southerly direction towards a long, low promontory, called Sandy Point. Government House is prettily situated on the rising ground at some distance behind the town, but there is nothing of the slightest interest to induce a passenger to land for the short time during the exchange ot mails. P'or 90 Roraima. a longer stay, that is if you have a friend's house to go to, Tobago is very interesting, both to the geologist and naturalist. Up to the present, over one hundred and thirty different species of birds have been discovered there> among which a " Penlope " is peculiar to the island, and is known as the Tobago pheasant. A bird-seller, who came on board, had some fine skins of trogons, jacamars, humming-birds, manakins, and others. It is to be hoped that the bird laws which have been wisely established in Trinidad will be adopted in Tobago, as at present the bird-killers from the former island gain their supplies from the latter. A curious circumstance in connection with the fauna of the West Indies is the number of species of birds, animals, and reptiles peculiar to certain islands, and those islands actually within sight of others. For instance, the Santa Cruz deer is distinct from the deer of St. Vincent or Tobago. The frogs of Dominica and the snakes of Martinique differ from those found elsewhere. The "Imperial Parrot"* from Dominica, is unknown in the other islands. Regarding humming-birds, Wallace says that "the West Indian islands possess fifteen distinct species, belonging to eight diff'erent genera, and these are so unlike any found on the continent that five of these genera are peculiar to the Antilles." The cave-haunting Guacharos are found in Trinidad, as well as on the main-land oi South America, but they have not reached the more northerly islands. It may be that the isolation of species is not so in reality, but owes its apparent existence to a want of know- * Chrysotis Augusta. Leave Tobago. 91 ledge, as the recesses of many of the densely wooded islands have still to be explored. It was with no regret that we left Tobago, as the heat was intense, and we could sympathize with a certain officer, who, when quartered here, was once found sitting in his tub, uttering the most vehement denunciations, with the invariable refrain, "D — Columbus, confound the fellow ! why did he discover this rascally island ?" 92 CHAPTER X. TO TRINIDAD — BOCA DE MONOS — GULF OP PARIA — PORT OP SPAIN —SAVANNA— BOTANIC GARDENS— A HINDOO VILLAGE— STAPLES — A CACAO PLANTATION — THE BLUE BASIN— FALLS OF MARACAS — THE PITCH LAKE —START FOR THE ORINOCO. AS Tobago and Trinidad are little more than eighteen miles apart where nearest, we were soon coasting down the latter island. The scenery was bold and picturesque, and the richly clad mountains were of a deep green, flushed in spots, with the crimson canopies of the " bois immortelle." Fertile valleys gently opened to the sea, which here dashed angrily against the caverned limestone walls, and there rippled to the feet of the cocoa-nut palms which encircled the bays. On reaching the '' Boca de Monos " — monkey's mouth — the mountains of Cumana on the main-land of South America loomed up before us. Stretching far out into the sea, these mountains resemble islands similar to those which form the different entrances to the Gulf of Paria, and so near do they appear that it is hard to believe that they are really part of the main-land. As so often happens, whether travelling by sea, lake, or river, the finest scenery is sure to present itself at dinner time. I regret to say that, iti Port of Spain. 93 our case, enthusiasm was damped by the thought that the soup was getting cold, and that probably the "pepper-pot" would be finished before we got through the " mouth." The scene was striking, as must be the case where wild woodland, reaching to the water, and bold mountain cliffs combine with steeply rising islands, fringed with palms and mangroves, and covered with a thick vegetation wherever a plant can cling. As if the passage was not narrow enough, a rocky islet, tufted with cactus and draped with euphorbias and cistus, stood in the way ; but we slipped past it, and soon sailed into the broad gulf. On we went, past wooded islets crowned with white houses, to which the Trinidadians retire in hot weather, and at last anchored off Port of Spain at a long distance from shore. The view from the water can hardly be called picturesque, the flat shores stretching on either side of the town in a long line hardly above the level of the sea. But the town itself is prettily situated in a profusion of foliage trees and feathery palms, which half conceal the white houses and graceful church towers. Higher up lies a green savanna, with the handsome " Queen's House " on its outskirts, and close behind rise the forest hills of Montserrat. At a short distance from the wharf, the main street is entered. A broad shady avenue runs up its centre, terminating with the mosque-like Roman Catholic Cathedral. Half way up, a break in the avenue is caused by Marme Square, with a fountain in the middle, and two of its angles occupied by boarding- houses. The nearest of these is known as Emma Clark's, and is supposed to have the best accommoda- 94 Roralma. tion in the town. Here, we accordingly entered, and were received by the hostess, a Creole lady, of ultra Junoesque proportions, and of renowned verbosity. Good-tempered beyond measure when not annoyed, but terrible in her wrath when aroused. I shall never forget her sublime indignation and torrent of words once, when one of her guests had the temerity to ask for an extra pillow. He did not get it, nor did he even repeat the request. Altogether, Miss Emma did not treat us so badly. Certainly, some people did say that her food, though good, was very limited as to quantity, that the wine and beer she supplied were exe- crable, that the solitary bath-room might have been kept cleaner, and that the apartments might have contained a little more furniture. But then somebody is always sure to grumble about something, and those who were not satisfied had the option of leaving — only there was no- where else to go. What a benefit it would be to travellers, and probably to the entire West Indies, if the Govern- ment — Home or Colonial — were to erect suitable hotels in the different islands, and lease them to competent persons who would render a sojourn among theni more attractive than at present ! The town of Port of Spain is not very interesting. Stores and shops are good, and Brunswick Square is adorned with a handsome cathedral and a curious old Government building. Beyond the latter are the new Court Houses, of massive and striking design, and large and expensive enough to satisfy the require- ments of the entire West Indies. It is a handsome town, and with that all has been said. Its chief features, irrespective of Emma Clark, are buzzards* * Catliarti's aura. Bad Odours. 95 and smells. Of the birds there are an immense number ; they line the roofs of the houses, perch on the fountains and wade in the basins, blink at you from the trees, and refuse to get out of your way in the streets. Alive, the noisome creatures sweep close to your face when you look from a verandah ; and dead, they greet your nostrils in your walk, as they generally choose the centre of a road as a suitable place to expire, and where they fall, there they lie. In smells. Port of Spain vies with St. Pierre. Our rooms were sometimes unbearable from the odour of salt fish, raw onions, potatoes, and coffee, which ascended from the provision stores underneath, and equalled in intensity the fumes from the small court- yard in which a cow, goats, pigs, a sheep, puppies, naked black children, and parrots wandered at liberty. Often did we exclaim with Mrs. Partington, " How flagrant it is!" Perhaps these odours account for the number of chemists' and druggists' shops that exist in Port of Spain. But the outskirts of the town are fresh and bright. Pretty houses and lovely gardens line the approaches to the park-like savanna. The only blot on the fair scene, is an unsightly building — • originally erected for the Duke of Edinburgh — which stands in a conspicuous position, unrelieved by a tree or flower. On approaching Queen's House, which is situated in the Botanical Gardens, the eye rests on, what to me, was the most charming sight in or around Port of Spain. Grand clumps of the most magnificent bamboos here line the roadside. Splendid ceibas, tamarinds, and samans are dotted about close by, but 96 Roralma. to my mind, could not compare with the bamboos, whose feathery arches and drooping boughs seemed like a " forest fit to fringe fairy land." The gardens disappointed me, perhaps from over expectation. Unlike those of Martinique, nature has not here granted a picturesque situation. Art has only partially succeeded in rendering the grounds attractive. There are many beautiful varieties of palms, deep-green nut- meg groves, towering erythrinas, ceibas, and various rare shrubs and trees, but there is something wanting to make up an effective whole. The gardens are ol" small extent and are deficient in any leading feature of special interest. There are no fountains, no pieces of water, no fills, no rockeries, and the only flower- garden proper is a small one under the windows ot Queen's House. Great care and attention are bestowed on the gardens, and in the nurseries I saw some rare orchids, luxuriant ferns, and many species of begonias, caladiums, and morantas. I was also shown some Liberian coffee trees, whose berries were far laiger than the common. Formerly, there was a small Zoological collection here, but that is of the past. The drive round the savanna in the cool evening is a very pleasant one. Here a black game of cricket is going on, amid much laughter and noise ; there a white one is being conducted, in a very sedate and orderly fashion. Near the ugly Prince's building is a croquet lawn, and close to the opposite Grand Stand an impromptu race has been organized. Moon- eyed Chinese trot along, with a basket of vegetables slung at one end of a long bamboo and a bundle of clean clothes at the other. Delicate-looking cattle are Coolies. 97 being led to water by still more delicate-looking Indian coolies, and scattered over the grass are brilliant patches of colour, caused by the gay robes of Hindoo women, whose arms and ancles, heavily hung with bangles, glitter brightly as they milk soft-eyed cows, to the music of laughing babies riding astride their hips. Coolie immigration from India has been very successful in Trinidad and Demerara, and speaks well for the system of labour which has been adopted in those places. And, certainly, the coolies have no cause for complaint. From the time they leave India until they return there — that is if they choose to return — every suitable provision is made for their comfort. Unlike the Chinese, whose only object is to make money and get back to the Celestial Empire as soon as possible, the Indian coolies become attached to their new home, and in Trinidad a great number — nearly three thousand — have obtained grants of land instead of " return " passages, and have settled down as colonists. Many of them possess sugar estates, and one owns several good race-horses. Hindoo villages are seen in many parts of the island, and near Port of Spain, on the road to St. James's Barracks, is a coolie village, so oriental in its character, even to its native priests, charmers, and prayer-house, that, if an aeronaut suddenly descended there, he might readily imagine himself near Calcutta. From the moment a stranger sets foot in Trinidad, he recognises that he is in a flourishing island ; and the more he sees and hears of it, the more convinced does he become of its prosperous future. In the large and busy H 98 Boraima. town, he can form some estimate of its resources, but, when he visits the interior and more distant regions, the fertility of the soil speaks for itself To use one of Jerrold's witticisms, the land is so fertile " that, if you tickle it with a hoe, it smiles with a flower." Though sugar is the chief produce, there are other staples to which Trinidad directs her attention in a greater degree every year. The chief of these is cacao, which is a product continually increasing in value, and which is admirably adapted to the soil. Apart from the ease with which it is cultivated and prepared, a cacao plantation is a very desirable one, on account of its beauty. It has none of the monotonous stretches of a sugar plantation, as cacao has to be protected from the sun. In some picturesque valley, or on undulating slopes, with a forest back-ground, and probably with a glorious sea view from a neighbouring hill, you see a dwarf forest whose trees are about the size of apple-trees, and on whose stems and red-brown branches grow hundreds of pods like great golden lemons. Through this forest, run rows of " bois immortelles " — Madres del cacao — tall, elm-like trees, with bright flame-coloured canopies which aflbrd a complete shade. On an eminence stands the w^hite house of the planter, and near it a few rustic cottages and provision grounds ; there is no tall smoking chimney, no din of machinery, no mingling of negro and molasses, all is cool and quiet, and you feel that, out of the few agricultural pursuits in the tropics, that of cacao-growing, must be the pleasantest. Around Port of Spain the absence of bird life makes a sad void in nature ; one misses the humming- Humming -Birds. 99 birds, which in Martinique dart from every shrub, and even visit the balcony-flowers in the town. Even at a distance inland, it is only occasionally that the yellow "sucriers" are met with, or that the amusing, glossy brown " trembleurs " are seen bowing and scraping to one another in their usual polite fashion, but in some other islands these birds are very common. The "Wild Birds' Protection Ordinance," which was passed in 1875, ^^^ hardly had time to bear fruit as yet, but before long the feathered tribe may once again abound. Especially rare is that most beautiful of all humming-birds, the "Tufted Coquette," — Lophornis ornatus — and once the species was as numerous as the "Ruby-crested,"* the "Savanna Sipphire,"f and the "Snowy-throated Emeralds," J which are still abundant in Trinidad. Some lovely specimens of the above-named were offered me for sale, and I doubt whether I could have refused them, even without the assurance that they all came from the " Main." I must have made a mistake in thinking that the " Snowy-throated Emerald " was peculiar to Trinidad ! From Port of Spain there are many delightful excursions to be made. There is the Blue Basin, at the head of the Diegomartin Valley, and above it is the Signal Station, from whence the land and coast views are very beautiful. Then there is the celebrated Maracas waterfall, the road to which affords an oppor- tunity of seeing the most picturesque plain, forest, and river scenery in the island. Besides the mud volcanoes, there is also that natural phenomenon, the Pitch Lake * Trochilus moschitus. f Chlorostilbon atala. J Thaumatias chronopectus. H 2 100 Uoraima. of La Brea. A weird, uncanny, intensely hot locality is that in which this strange lasoon is situated. The lake itself, which is nearly three miles in circumference, is surrounded by wood and jungle, growing luxuriantly from the pitchy soil. Out of the black sea rise little green oases covered with flowering shrubs, and occa- sionally lines of grass streak the surface. In the asphalte, which is hard in some places and soft and sticky in others, are numerous cracks and channels, often filled with clear brown water. Here and there a mas5?ive tree trunk or tapering pole protrudes through the pitch, like the hull and masts of some wrecked vessel sinking gradually out of sight. Charles Kingsley has already fully described the sights and wonders of Trinidad, and since " At Last " was written the face of the country has little altered. Civilization of late has progressed, a railroad and coast steamers now connect different parts of the island, plantations have increased in number, and trade is augmenting annually. But Trinidad is still in its infancy, as by far the greater part of the island is still unreclaimed and unopened forest. When Trinidad is traversed by proper roads, it is hardly too much to say that her prosperity will out- rival that of Jamaica in her palmiest days. On this subject a good authority has recently said : " Unfortunately, the same conditions of soil, &c., which render Trinidad a very productive country, make the construction of roads, which are essential to the prosperity and advancement of a country, very difficult and expensive, and the peculiar conditions of the colonial community allow of little interest being manifested in the well-being of the island, bevond the Road t^ in Trinidad. 101 immediate concerns of the moment. Thus it is that our highways, such as they are, are mostly very narrow, devoid of footwalks, and for many weary miles with- out a single tree which might afford shelter to man or beast, who are thus exposed to the fierce rays of a blazing tropical sun, the direct effects of which are heightened by the scarcely less pernicious ones of reflection and radiation from all the surfaces around. The correction of these and other evils can hardly be be expected, unless there should arise a spirit of enlightened public feeling which at the present time does not exhibit itself." Let us hope that the writer is too severe on the community of Trinidad, and that the road-making difficulty will soon be overcome. 1 ought to add that in the neighbourhood of the capital the roads are remarkably good, but glaring. From Trinidad I proceeded to Demerara, and there found, as I stated in the preface, that the Government was about to send an expedition to Roraima, and with great kindness allowed me to accompany it. As it was not to start until the end of February, I deter- mined to return to Trinidad, and from thence ascend the Orinoco. In the next chapter I must describe that trip. 102 CHAPTER XI. THE " HEROE DE ABRIL"— APPROACHING THE ORINOCO— MOUTHS OF THE ORINOCO — THE MACAREO CHANNEL — MACAWS — WATER LABYRINTHS — GITARANOS — INDIAN CAMP— TROUPIALS — BAR- RANCAS — LITTLE VENICE — LAS TABLAS — CARATAL GOLD MINES — VENEZUELA— THE CARONI — ROCKS OF PORPHYRY — CIUDAD BOLIVAR— PIEDRA MEDIO— ANGOSTURA BITTERS — UPPER ORI- NOCO — FEATHER HAMMOCKS. BEFORE a traveller can ascend the Orinoco, it is necessary — or said to be necessary by the steam-ship company — to obtain a passport. It is, I believe, quite unnecessary, but as the salary of Venezuelan officials depends in a great measure on perquisites, it is an act of charity to purchase your passport from the consul at Trinidad. This is the first of the many blows which go far to destroy the romance of the great river. At least we — my com- panion being a master from the college at Barbadoes — had an idea that the Orinoco must be a romantic river, for had not Rnleigh cruised about it in search of golden palaces and of El Dorado ! We obtained our passports and tickets, and at the hour of sailing were informed that our vessel — the " Heroe de Abril " — was in the hands of the sheriff and could not leave. The following day, however, we received notice to be on board at a certain hour, as the steamer was to be allowed to depart on this occa- The Macareo Channel. 103 sion only. The owners chuckled over this, as, owing to defective boilers, neither she nor any of the pas- sengers were expected to return at all. The " Heroe " proved to be an old Hudson River tug-boat, with sufficiently comfortable cabins on its upper deck, whilst its lower deck was open and crowded with second-class passengers who slung their hammocks wherever they could find space. Nearly all on board were bound for the gold mines of Caratal, and a very motley crowd it was. Regarding the food and service, I will merely say that both were of the worst possible description. Those who had made the trip before had brought their own provisions, and were kind enough to share them with the novices. Without this aid, it is doubt- ful whether some of the passengers would have arrived at their journey's end. It was late at night when we left Trinidad, so that early the following morning we found that we had crossed the Gulf of Paria, passed through the "Serpent's Mouth," and were approaching the gruel-like water of the Orinoco. On either side, but many miles apart, stretched two long, low lines of trees, which extended from the equally low coast line in front. To all appearance it was a deep ocean bay, but the colour of the water and the fact that there was no longer any heaving of the lead, told us that we had crossed the bar and had entered the Macareo channel of the Orinoco. Of the numerous other mouths which form the enormous delta of this river, but two are used by vessels, and of these two the " Boca de Navies " has fifteen or sixteen feet of water on the bar, while the " Pedernales " has barely six feet. 104 Boraima. On nearing the mainland, we saw numerous islands covered with bush and shrubs, and on one, which looked like a floating mass of weeds that might be swept away by the waves caused by our paddle-wheels, an Indian fisherman had established himself. Two sloping sticks covered with leaves formed his shelter, which was half concealed from the prying eyes of fish and birds by a wide-meshed net. A little bark canoe showed that, in case of inundation, means of escape were at hand. Gradually the channel mouth narrowed, and the dense mangrove thickets which line the banks became more and more conspicuous. It is chiefly to these ever-extending mangroves that the great delta of the Orinoco owes its development. The twisted and matted roots stem the tide, retain the soil, and gradually raise the surface. Year by year the mangrove increases its dominions, and, judging from its present wide extent, it seems that ere long the smaller delta mouths will be choked. All we saw was a low but vast expanse of bright green foliage. At one spot the mangroves appeared to be mingled with large bushes of hybiscus, covered with enormous crimson blossoms. Suddenly the blossoms took wing, and we recognized a flock of scarlet ibises. At length, we were fairly in the river channel, with a width across of less than a quarter of a mile. Various shrubs were now mixed with the mangroves, and at some distance from the banks tall clumps of trees, with masses of creepers, fringed the outlying lakes and open swamps. From these arose clouds of wild-fowl, which, after a look at the steamer, returned to their feeding-grounds, or in endless strings took long flights to more distant solitudes. There was Scenery on the Orinoco. 105 no scarcity of birds here ; there were geese, ducks of various sorts, bitterns, spoonbills, crested pheasants, herons, egrets, water-turkeys, and many specimens of the huge tantalus. After a time the vegetation assumed a forest aspect, and we entered a palm region. Here we were greeted by the harsh cries of the blue and yellow macaws, which in numberless pairs flew overhead, and in flocks rose screaming from lofty trees. The scenery was very tropical, and we began to think that perhaps a trip up the Orinoco was not the mistake that it was said to be by a gentleman on board, who had made the voyage before. Palms predominated, but there were also splendid trees, from whose branches the hanging creepers formed a perfect wall. Here and there these green curtains lifted, and disclosed an aquatic maze threading its way deep into the wild forest. The monotonous green was varied with white-plumed ingas, crimson poivreas, and yellow bauhinias, which overhung the arums, the thick-veined caladiums, and the bamboo-like grasses growing on the banks. White egrets stalked along, tortoises flopped into the water from the branches, water-turkeys dived and always came up just ahead of us, and solemn cranes with one eye on the stream and the other on a fish, did not stir from their one-legged position as we pufi^ed past them. Only on the beautiful little Ocklawaha River in Florida, have I seen such lovely vistas as here penetrate the recesses of the border forests ; each one, in fact, was a tropical Ocklawaha. Once, on turning a bend in the channel, we came suddenly upon a canoe whose occupants had not time to disappear in the side 106 Roraima. labyrinths, as they had done previously. It was evidently a family party of Guaraiios or Kirishana Indians. The poor creatures looked terribly frightened, and the trembling women turned their faces towards the forest. Such modesty was hardly to be wondered at, seeing that the only clothing of any description that one of them had on was a baby, which she hastily caught up and wore as an impromptu apron. It was with no small interest that we gazed at these few members of an almost extinct tribe, whose home is — or used to be — for the greater part of the year in the tree tops. For this Delta, which is always wet, is for several months inundated. The swampy soil is then many feet under water, and, therefore, high up in the trees, the Indians build their houses. If it was on account of its freedom that they selected such an un- propitious spot for habitation, they chose well and were certainly safe from intrusion, as none but an Indian could thread in his canoe the water-paths of the dismal forest. But probably their choice was deter- mined by the extraordinary abundance of a certain palm called the "Mauritia" or " Ite."* This has been well named arhl de la vida^ for it supplies the Indians with food, drink, clothing, habitation, canoes, and hunting and fishing implements. Food is made from the scaly fruit, which resembles pine cones hanging in clusters, and also from the soft pithy substance con- tained in the trunk ; the two are treated like cassava and mixed into a cake of the consistency ot" sago and called " yaruma." From the juice of the flower-spathes toddy is made, and from the sheaths at their base sandals and girdles are manufactured. Hammocks, * Mauritia llcxuosa. Indian Settlements. 107 nets, and lines are "woven from the fibres, canoes are fashioned out of the trunks, and bows and arrows from the leaf-stems. Besides these necessaries of life, some luxuries are also supplied, as from the pith of the large arm of the leaf, split longitudinally, a sail is made for canoes, and by raising the fibres of the arm and placing a bridge under them, a rude kind of musical instrument is formed. To make their domiciles, four suitable palm trees are selected, notches are cut, and beams, stretched from trunk to trunk, are lashed together with fibre. A layer of mud, which hardens and is capable of bearing a fire, is then spread over the flooring, a roof of trees is added, and the dwelling is complete. Whether these Indians still take to the trees in the wet season, or whether they find more com- fortable lodgings on the ground, I know not. Higher up the river we passed one or two small Indian settle- ments, where the huts, pitched on elevated ground, consisted merely of a thatched roof supported by poles, but whether the inhabitants were Guaraiios or not we could not say. They were better dressed than our old friends, as each individual was provided with fully six inches of cotton girdle. But their attire did not prove that they were not Guaraiios, as it may be that they only put on their Sunday best on the approach of the steamer. Nature has admirably assisted these beings in their hiding propensities, as the reddish brown colour of their skins assimilates with that of the bush stems and tree trunks, among which they conceal themselves. In one place where we had seen a canoe enter, we saw a camp with hammocks slung and fire burning, but not a trace of the occupants. 108 Boraima. although they were probably looking at us from out of the bushes a very short distance away. They must have been close, as the canoe was there and empty. It is not surprising that these timid savages consider everyone who does not belong to their own tribe as their natural enemy. At a "wooding" station where we had stopped, a canoe hovered about for some time but would not approach. At last, just as we were start- ing, it came alongside, and we found that it contained several cages of black and yellow troupials. The owners would not come on board, and could not be induced to hand up their birds for inspection until they had received payment, and then they paddled hurriedly away. On inquiry, I heard that the ship's company (Venezuelans) made a good deal of money by the sale of these beautiful birds in Trinidad and other places, and it had been the practice to obtain them from the Indians and delay payment until it was too late. Thus the unfortunate natives lost their birds and their money. Besides the sight of an occasional Indian, we had no other excitement. Once in the night the steamer came to a halt owing to a thick fog, and at another time a loud crash preceded the stoppage of the engine; loud cries of "Has the boiler burst?" came from different parts, in various languages, but we had only run ashore, and soon steamed off again. On the morning of the third day after leaving Trinidad, we arrived at Barrancas, where the mouths of the Orinoco separate. We did not anchor, but sent off the mails in a small boat to the little town Las Tahlas. 109 which stands on the left bank of the main river, and then proceeded on our way. Here the scenery changed completely. The forest had disappeared, there were no more palms, no bright creepers, even the mangroves were absent. Macaws, parrots, troupials, all were left behind, and we looked over a river some miles in width, with sandy banks and low, dry, unprepossess- ing hills in the distance. It was a barren, desolate scene, and even a great, lean heron sitting on a withered branch, with his long neck sunk between his shoulders, seemed to think that life with such surroundings was not worth fishing for. We were certainly in Venezuela, but "Little Venice," with its water lanes and streets, lay behind us. After several hours of slow steaming we arrived at Las Tablas, which is the nearest port to the mines of Caratal. It was a dreary-looking place, consisting of a few houses and one large tree. No one was allowed to disembark as there is no Custom House, consequently passengers for the mines have to proceed on to Ciudad Bolivar and wait there some days, until the steamer returns to Las Tablas. Thus, for want of a Custom House, passengers, as well as goods, have to travel nearly two hundred miles out of their way. The mines of Caratal are taking a very conspicuous position among the gold mines of the world, and already there are over 4,000 British subjects — mostly natives of the West Indies — at work there. Strange to say, we have no representative at Bolivar. Some years ago our Consul was dismissed by the President in the most arbitrary manner, and no notice was taken of the insult, neither was the office re-filled. The need of a representative is very great in a country 110 Roralma. where the authorities are in the habit of raising troops to suppress perpetual insurrections, and where they seize on anyone without regard to nationality. 1 have heard it hinted that, were the boundaries of Venezuela and British Guiana properly assigned, it would be found that the valuable mines ot Caratal belong to the latter. This, however, is by no means the opinion of Venezuelans, and as these boundaries have been of late under much discussion, I have appended the translation of some official reports which have lately been published on the subject in Caracas. The Venezuelan idea of the correct boundary line — that of the Essequibo — is so different from our own, that a perusal of the papers mav be interesting. Close to Las Tablas the Caroni joins the Orinoco, and a curious effect is produced by the differently coloured waters running together for a long distance without mingling. This was the farthest point reached by Raleigh in his search for El Dorado in 1595, when, finding that his men were discouraged and nothing was to be gained by remaining, he returned to England. From Las Tablas upwards, the scenery was almost identical with that from Barrancas. Here and there on the banks stood a cottage and plantation, beyond stretched wide plains edged by green slopes and woods, which imparted a brighter aspect. Soundings were continually taken, and in many places there was barely sufficient depth of water to carry us over. From the waste of waters rose numerous islets of porphyry as smooth as glass, and which, being covered with a crust of oxide of manganese, sparkled in the sun and formed remark- able objects in the scene. Sand-banks were frequent, La Pledra del Medio. Ill and on one a brig bound for New York lay stranded, and had been there two weeks, owing to the captain's refusal to pay a steam-tug from Ciudad Bolivar the enormous sum demanded for towing her off. As she was in the same position when we returned, it is probable she remained there until the rising of the river in the wet season. Animal life was reduced to a few cranes and some enormous alligators, which basked on the sand in utter indifference to the noisy anathemas heaped on them by the black crew, who yelled again whenever they caught sight of the scaly bodies. On the day after leaving Las Tablas, we anchored off Ciudad Bolivar, the capital of Guayana, which is the largest state in the Republic of Venezuela. The town was built in 1764, by Mendoza, who named it Santo Tomas de la Nueva Guayana, which was after- wards changed to " Angostura," and then to its pre- sent one, Ciudad Bolivar. Angostura — the Narrows — was a very appropriate name, as here the Orinoco, whose breadth above and below averases about two miles and a half, contracts to less than half a mile. In the middle of the river stands a famous rock, called " La Piedra del Medio," which serves as a metre to gauge the rise and fall of the flood, which at its highest rises no less than sixty feet above its summer level. As our visit was during the dry season we had to land in a boat, struggle over a sandy beach, and then clamber up a high bank, whereas in the wet season you step from the vessel on to the Alameda. From the river the town looks picturesque, as it is situated on a conical hill, with the houses rising in 112 Roraima. tiers and crowned by the cathedral. The streets are narrow and steep, with the exception of the principal one, which skirts the river, and which is partly shaded by a double row of fine spreading trees called " mamon." The most prominent building is the market-place, which stands on a rocky eminence overhanging the river. After a strict inspection of our luggage at the Custom House, we went to the only hotel in the town which the two Germans who keep it call "the Club." Here we found clean rooms without furniture of any kind, but the proprietor promised to give us canvas cots, and, if possible, two chairs. We were glad to sit down to breakfast after our long fast on board the "Heroe," but alas ! the food was almost as bad as that on the steamer, and, as we were informed that it was impossible to cook any dish without garlic, we had to live chiefly on bread during our stay. Some claret that we ordered was so bad that we sent for another and much more expensive brand; finding it equally bad we complained to the servant, who laugh- ingly informed us that it all came out of the sime cask. A more uninteresting town than Ciudad Bolivar it is impossible to imagine. In half-an-hour you can see the whole of it, including the cathedral, a bronze statue of "the Liberator" — Bolivar — and a very tall pillar with a small bust of Guzman Blanco — the late President — on the top of it. The cemetery contains the monument of the first Dr. Siegert, of "Angostura Bitters" celebrity, and, when you have 'seen that and the two above-mentioned statues, you have seen the "lions" of Ciudad Bolivar. Apropos of The Venezuelan Army. 113 of "Angostura Bitters," the manufactory is no longer carried on here owing to its exorbitant taxation by the Government, but has been removed to Trinidad. Near the cemetery are the barracks, and these are buildings worthy of their occupants. We were told that the soldiers collected here were not good speci- mens of the Venezuelan Army, and we hoped not. In Caracas I afterwards saw some troops that were well equipped and presented a soldier-like appearance. But here half-starved, ill clad, of a wretched physique, in height averaging about five feet, and with miserable arms and accoutrements, the troops that we beheld presented a sorry spectacle. Their pay is hardly worth mentioning, but they are fortunate when they receive it. This circumstance reminded me of a distribution of pay that once occurred in a certain town in the United States. A number of Pinte Indians had been brought in to take part in a 4th of July procession, and after the parade each man received a dollar. It had been customary to hand over the entire amount to their chief — Captain Bob — for distribution, but the fact had become known that coin did not readily leave his grasp. The captain observed this new method of paying with more complacency than was anticipated. He was out-generaled, but not beaten. Being a great poker player he took his men to one of his favourite haunts, and before sunset had cleared his entire army out of the last cent. From the pitiful condition of the troops when we saw them, it was difficult to imagine what the state of the private soldiers must have been in 1822, when I 114 Roraima. hundreds of officers were seen begging from house to house in the streets of Caracas. Even as late as 1862, the army was in want of the necessaries of Hfe. It is not from a lack of generals that the troops are uncared for and ill-disciplined, for the supply is un- limited. Two boatmen, who once rowed us over from Ciudad Bolivar to the opposite shore to visit a cattle ranch, were both generals. The butcher who supplied the hotel was a general, and, if his military tactics were as good as those he exhibited in his steady resolve not to furnish good meat, he ought to have been a success. But in Venezuela it is not necessary either to be, or to have been a soldier, to become a general. The title is distributed indis- criminately, and sent about like a bouquet of flowers or a box of cigars, with the compliments of so and so. A late aspirant for the Presidency intimated that he would abolish this distinction, by making everybody a general. Needless to say he lost his election. In more recent times, did not the son of Prince Bismarck lose his nomination to the Reichstag by a premature declaration of his policy ? At Caracas, one day, I was looking over a book called Cervantes y la CrUica, by Urdaneta. in it was a list of subscribers to the volume, and out of four hundred names I counted two hundred and seventy- eight generals, and all the rest were doctors. Well might the Irishman exclaim in Venezuela, as he did upon his arrival in the United States, " What a divil of a battle has been fought near here, where all the privates were kilt !" Finding so little to see or do in Ciudad Bolivar, we were anxious to ascend the Upper Orinoco, but FeathoT and Grasfi IlammocJcs. 1 1 •"> heard to our dismay that the small steamer "Nutrias" no longer went up the river. We therefore had to pass a week in the town until the "Heroe" returned to Trinidad. Formerly, the trade with the Upper Orinoco was very considerable, and four steamers used to ply on the river, bringing down coffee, indigo, hides, cotton, &c. Revolutions have destroyed that, and now almost the only trade is with the mines of Caratal. Now and then large Indian canoes from the Rio Negro descend the river, bringing birds, hammocks, and curiosities, which they exchange for necessaries, and then return. Some of their feather and grass hammocks that we saw were marvels of skill, and must have been highly remunerative to the merchants, who demanded from one hundred to one hundred and fifty dollars apiece, having probably obtained them for ten or twelve dollars worth of goods. It was excessively hot during our stay, but for- tunately a dry heat, and there were no mosquitoes, although a lagoon on one side of the town gave promise of an abundant supply. In the wet season the heat is almost unbearable. As our hotel was close to the river — in fact, just outside the door was the hull of a vessel which had been left there high and dry when the water fell — we generally had a good breeze, and the verandah was the coolest place in the town. Few of the other houses possessed verandahs, as in Ciudad Bolivar the roof is the favourite family resort in the evening. Some of the roofs are prettily laid out with flowers and shrubs, and there the ladies sit and talk, receive visitors, promenade, and enjoy any breath of air that may relieve the stifling heat. I 2 1 1 6 Roraima. Ciudad Bolivar used to be a very hospitable town, but that was in the good old days when Senor Dalle Costa was President of Guayana, and there seemed a fair chance of good government. Then there was a good deal of amusement ; travellers, English officers from Trinidad, and others were gladly welcomed and entertained, puma and jaguar hunts were organized, and a trip up the Orinoco was a great pleasure. Now trade is depressed, the town is woefully dull, and I doubt whether any traveller would visit Ciudad Bolivar for pleasure a second time. Whether the community — which numbers 7,000 or 8,000 souls — is an intellectual one I do not know, but I do know that I was unable to obtain a book in any language or of any description — except grammars — at any store or shop in the town. After a long search in stores that contained a little of everything, from pomatum to ship's cables, I was told that I might find some books at the chemist's. His stock consisted of a few grammars, very useful in their way, but hardly entertaining enough to wile away the hot hours. It must be remembered that this was in the capital of the largest State in Venezuela, a republic whose area is larger than that of France, Spain, and Portugal taken together. Trinidad is very little better off for books than Ciudad Bolivar, as the only bookseller there has very few works except an old collection of volumes of Tauchnitz — an edition, by the way, which I think is " particularly requested not to be introduced into English colonies." A collector of coins might visit Ciudad Bolivar with advantage, as a more miscellaneous currency could not be found. Not only do you receive Gorgeous Sunset. 117 in change coins from every country in the world, but also chips of silver and blocks of copper that would be utterly valueless anywhere else. The scenery around the town was flat and tame, but it acquired a charm from the great river and the wonderful transparency of the atmosphere. From the Calvary behind the town, easy of access, but fruitful in rattlesnakes, the eye embraced a vast extent of country. For the most part it is covered with thick chaparro, with here and there an undulating line which marks the course of a rivulet. Dotted about are what look like specks of pasture, but which, when approached, prove to be wide savannas, which afford grazing for countless cattle. Dark masses of trees show where virgin forests lie, and on the verge of the horizon the hills rise, looking pink and purple in the brilliant sunlight. The environs are dry and uncultivated. A few Indian huts and cottages with plantain patches are all that are to be seen. Every evening we used to go to the old fort near the market and watch the sunset, and the last we saw surpassed in colouring any that I have ever witnessed. We looked up the river towards the west, and were fairly dazzled by the rich lights in sky and water. An arch of dead gold spanned a dip in the distant purple hills; below it was a crimson disc, and above a clear blue expanse. Radiating from this arc were bars of distinct shades, which shone for a few. seconds and melted into a sheet of yellow and rose. The light was continuous from the sky far down the river, where it touched with pink the great cross on the black rock " del Medio." Turning from the rainbow-tinted water to the north-east we looked down the river, 1 1 8 Roraima. and, though a rose flush still tinged the horizon, the broad flood flashed like burnished steel as the rays of a full moon fell directly upon it. After the glare of the sunset, the change was as sudden as from noon to midnight. But gradually the eye became accus- tomed to the chastened silvery light as it touched the dark green foliage and brought into clear relief the houses and cottages on the bank, and, when once more we turned towards the west, it was there where the seeming darkness rested. Only for a moment though, and then we discerned a beautiful olive-green horizon, which gradually faded in the clear silver moonlight. For sharp, decided colouring, we had seen nothing like it, and in spite of our anxiety to leave Ciudad Bolivar we regretted that we should not witness one more sunset there. Before we left our rocky standpoint, a loud exclama- tion from some bathers below us drew our attention to a black object floating down the stream. It proved to be an alligator, who would, doubtless, have made short work of anyone who ventured beyond the shallow pools that bordered the river. When the river is high, it is not an unfrequent occurrence to see one of these monsters in the very street. Waterton says : " One Sunday evening some years ago, as I was walking with Don Felipe de Yriarte, Governor of Angostura, on the banks of the Orinoco: 'Stop here a moment or two, Don Carlos,' said he to me, ' while I recount a sad accident. One fine evening last year the people of Angostura were sauntering up and down in the Alameda. I was within twenty yards of this place, when I saw a large cayman rush out of the river, seize a man and carry him down before anybody had Alligators. 1 19 it in his power to assist him. The screams of the poor fellow were terrible as the cayman was running off with him. He plunged into the river with his prey ; we instantly lost sight of him, and never saw or heard of him more.'" Humboldt also saw an alligator seize an Indian by the leg, while pushing his boat ashore, in the lagoon behind the town. He was dragged into deep water, and his cries collected a crowd, who saw him search for his knife. Not finding it, he seized the reptile by the head and pressed his fingers into his eyes. But the creature held on and disappeared with the unfortunate Indian. Our descent of the Orinoco was as uneventful as our ascent. The only change was a substitution of cattle for our former second-class passengers. Freight, human and mercantile, was discharged at Las Tablas ; we were stopped by frogs and impeded by shallows, but the boiler did not burst, thanks to the untiring watchfulness of the Scotch engineer, and we arrived safely at Trinidad. Soon afterwards I proceeded to Demerara. 120 CHAPTER XII. TO GEORGETOWN — FIRST IMPRESSIONS— BATHS— A DROUGHT- STREET SCENES — AN OIL PAINTING — VICTORIA REGIA— THE CANNON-BALL TREE — SWIZZLES — A PROVISION OP NATURE — DIGNITY BALLS — CALLING CRABS — FOUR EYES— KISKIDIS — FEATHER TRADE— COLOURED SUGAR— A VERSATILE AMERICAN — DEMERARA CRYSTALS— PHYSALIA — OFF TO RORAIMA. A DARK thread Stretching across the horizon, only a faint streak, which thickened into a fringed skein as the tops of cocoa-nut trees came in view, told us that we were in sight of British Guiana.* Soon the blue water assumed the hue and consistency of pea- soup, as we approached the mouth of the Demerara river. A pilot came on board, but for six hours we had to await the pleasure of the tide before crossing * This, the largest of our colonies in the West Indies, and the only one in South America, comprises the three counties of Demerara, Essequibo and Berbice, which derive their names from the three principal rivers which border them. Georgetown, the capital, and seat of Government, has a population of 37,000 inhabitants, whilst the total population of the colony approaches 240,000. The coast line of British Guiana on the Atlantic is about 280 miles in length, and in breadth the country varies from 200 to 450 miles, the total area being estimated at 76,000 square miles. Its boundaries inland may be said to be Venezuela, Brazil, and Dutch Guiana, but the precise limits of the two former are still undetermined. Cultiva- tion is restricted to a long narrow strip of the coast and along the banks of the rivers for a few miles. The whole ot the cultivated area is under 80,000 acres, and the greater part ot that is in sugar cane alone. Georgetown. 121 the shallow bar that guards the entrance to the river. The first impression on beholding Demerara is that a wave of moderate proportions would submerge the country. You see no background, no hill or rising land, nothing but a thin coast line of avicennia and mangrove bushes, above which rise cocoa-nut palms and high chimneys. Presently you discover that there is land behind the coast line, as beyond a fine sea-wall on the left you can see the barracks, fine spacious buildings with deep verandahs, and several white houses. A fort is passed, and a goodlv array of ship- ping at anchor in the river, and lying alongside the wharfs, betokens a busy town. Groups of royal palms, spires, and steeples rise up in the rear of large warehouses and go-downs that line the bank, and be- fore the vessel anchors you recognize the fact that Georgetown is the first and most promising town in or near the West Indies. We anchored in the river, but now the steamers run alongside a wharf, which is a comfort that cannot be too highly estimated. A hundred voices greeted us on -landing, with offers to convey our luggage to the hotel, and " Kerridge, sir, kerridge," resounded on all sides. Not only were there " kerridges " of different descriptions, but there was actually a " hansom " in waiting. Had it not been for the numerous black faces, we might have landed on the coast of England, but, then again, the numerous bangled women and turbaned men suggested India. W^e were quickly driven to the new " Tower " Hotel, which looked clean and comfortable, but not a room was vacant. In Georgetown, house rent is so 122 Roraima. exorbitant that many resident bachelors, and occasion- ally families, live together at the hotels ; consequently, strangers often find accommodation unobtainable or indifferent. Across the road was the " Kaieteur Hotel," a large, rambling, wooden structure, but with the prestige of antiquity, and kept by Captain Holly, the American consul at Barbadoes. Here we found rooms, and the worthy proprietor did his best to make us comfortable, but it must be allowed that, with all his kindness and attention, he had not then attained the art of keeping a good hotel. But as the two I have mentioned are by far the best hotels in the West Indies, allowances must be made for a few short-comings. There is one item though for which no allowance ought to be made, and in the tropics it is a most important one. In the matter of baths and bath rooms the hotels and board- ing houses in the West Indies are disgracefully negli- gent. At St. Thomas, to reach the cobwebby and tarantula-occupied bath room, it is necessary to de- scend a flight of dirty stone steps and to pick your way across a court-yard which is never swept, 'and which is a repository for old boots, rags, banana skins, and fowls. At Martinique there were no bath rooms in my hotel, and I had to hire a tub ; I was told that even in the best hotels — the Hotel Micas — there were no baths. At Barbadoes, one very small shower-bath taken on the bare bricks did duty for the whole establishment at Hoad's. At Trinidad, a green, slimy tank into which fresh water ran, but which was never emptied or cleaned, was the sole bathing accommoda- tion for Miss Emma Clark, her boarders, and servants. Bain-fall in Demerara. 123 And here at the "Kaieteur," the two bath rooms — one on each floor — were not fit for sculleries, a use by the way to which they were frequently put. Their size was such that they barely held a small tub, and it was difficult to stand upright in them ; as for a chair, there was not room for one, and, what with the intense heat and the want of space, I have frequently seen people come out of the wretched hole streaming with per- spiration after their bath. The supply of water, too, was very limited, as in Demerara rain water alone is used, and when we arrived there the long continued drought had nearly emptied the tanks. The average rain -fall in Demerara is estimated by feet instead of inches; but last year (1877) had been very dry, and now the absence of rain in the usual short wet season — December, January, and February — had already created more loss to the planters, and as it was too late to expect rain before May, a water famine was anticipated. It used to be positively asserted that the year was divided into two wet and two dry seasons in British Guiana, but it is gradually dawning on the public mind that no uniformity in weather ever did, or can exist, and that, though the climate remains, the weather changes. Georgetown is a handsome, well-built town, with broad streets, avenues, excellent stores, and shops of all descriptions, and with a lively, well to-do air that is as invigorating as the heat is depressing. In the streets, besides the white race, you meet sharp-featured Madrassees, Hindoos of various castes, Parsees, Nubians, and half-breeds. Stepping timidly along may also be seen two or three " bucks," as the natives from the interior are called, dressed — if dressed at 124 Roraima. all — in a motley suit of old clothes, and only anxious to sell or exchange their parrots and hammocks, and then return to their wilds. From a merchant's store filled with European goods, you step into a little shop redolent of the East, and stocked with bangles and silver ornaments worked by their Cingalese proprietor. There stands a Portuguese Jew, ready to fleece the first " buck " whom he can entice into his cheap general-store, and here sits stolid John Chinaman, with his pigtail wreathed round his head, keeping guard over his home-made cigars. The Government Building is a large, fine-looking structure, the numerous churches are graceful and picturesque, and everywhere there is a home look about the town, without pretension, that is very attractive. The reading-room is cool and very com- fortable, the library well managed, and the museum in the same building is likely, under the care of Mr. Im Thurm, the new curator, to become a very valuable acquisition to the colony. Under his superintendence, a very interesting exhibition of native produce and in- dustry had been held previous to my arrival, and I was sorry to have missed it. It has been said that hospitality is on the wane in the West Indies ; well, if that of Demerara may be taken as an example, may it always be on the wane I A kinder, more hospitable community I never met. It seems to be the object of the residents to make a stranger's sojourn among them as home-like and acrree- able as they can. Some one once remarked, and it has been the fashion to repeat, that the French alone in the West Indies make the land of their adoption their home, and that the English make it merely a place Love of Home. 125 of business, from which they hasten at the earhest opportunity. This may be so, for the English of all others are a home-loving race, and "the old country" is more, I think, to them than '' fatherland " to the Germans, or " notre pays" to the French. But, whilst they are in exile, they, at any rate in Demerara, sur- round themselves as far as possible with home comforts and home reminiscences, and infuse something of the far off country sweetness into the inner circle of their lives. No heart — no, not even a Savoyard's — feels expatriation so deeply as an Englishman's, and none, save those whose lot has been to sojourn far from home, can imagine the intense longing to see again the native shores. Do you remember that old poem called " The Home Fever : A reminiscence of the West Indies?" — the first verse is — * " We sat alone in a trellised bower, And gazed o'er the darkening deep, , And the holy calm of that twilight hour Came over our hearts like sleep, And we dreamed of the banks and the bonny braes That have gladdened our hearts in childhood's days, and the last, "Oh! talk of spring to the trampled flower, Of light to the fallen star ; Of glory, to those who, in danger's hour, Lie cold in the field of war j But ye mock the exile's heart when ye tell Of aught save the home where it pines to dwell." It will be asked, where do these good people of Georgetown dwell } Opposite the " Kaieteur" hotel is the Club, which is the pleasantest resort in the town, as it receives the full benefit of the trade wind, which on certain occasions 1 26 linraima. by-the-bye wafts other zephyrs than those fresh from the beautiful hybiscus hedge in front, and is much fre- quented by its members. Stretching far away from this club towards the sea-wall is Main Street, and there and in the neighbouring parallel one the principal houses of Georgetown are situated. Main Street is broad and picturesque ; a series of wide trenches* with green sloping banks divides it, and on each side runs a fine road. The residences which line it are all detached, and of various styles of architecture, from a three-storied edifice with towers and cupola to a low wide-spreading structure with but one floor above the basement. But all are built for coolness as well as comfort, and their wide shady verandahs are the favourite resorts of the family. Many of the gardens are brilliant masses of coloiir, resembling a rich oil-painting, rather than a delicate water-colour of those of European lands. The tints are so gorgeous and heavy ; there are bushes of the crimson hybiscus, scarlet cordias, flaming poin- settias, trailing corallitas, the bright flowers of the bois immortelle, the drooping clusters of the red quiscualis, the vermilion blossoms of the flamboyant, all vying in splendour with safl^ron petrceas, deep blueconvolvuluses^ abutilons, and the white trumpets of the datura. In one garden I remember seeing a resplendent mass of Bougainvilleas, and on a neighbouring tree some equally showy blossoms of a magnificent crimson orchid — Cattleya superha ; between them crept pale clusters of English honeysuckle, not a bit abashed by their grand * As there is no natural fall of water, these open trenches, which are seen everywhere in the country as well as town, are necessary to carry off surface water to prevent flooding in the wet season. By sluice-gates the town trenches can be flooded when required. Public Gardens. 127 neighbours, but rather exulting in the fragrance denied to their bright-coloured companions. Marbled crotons and purple draccenas are tipped by strange-looking papaws, whose wax-like blossoms grow direct from the trunks and branches, and above these tower shade-trees and tall palms. Very con- spicuous are the royal palms, standing either singly or in groups, and near them bend the cocoa-nut trees, as if in acknowledgment of the superior majesty of their kings. Besides the houses, some pretty churches, half- hidden in trees, give a finish to this the most pictu- resque street in Georgetown. In the adjacent street are also some neat houses, and on one side of it are the Public Gardens with the small but ever hospitable Government House opposite. In the gardens are some specimens of the Victoria Re^ia — the lily which was discovered by Sir Robert Schom- burg on the Berbice river— but in size they are rot to be" compared with some in other parts of Demerara ; for instance on one of the plantations, Leonora, is a plant whose leaves are over six feet in diameter, and strong enough to bear the weight of an average-sized man when a board has been placed across to distribute the weight properly. There is also a fine cannon-ball tree,* under whose shade the weary traveller may experience sensations similar to those of Damocles, as the huge fruit, which is as big as a twenty-pound shot and nearly as heavy, seems always ready to fall from its slender hanging stem. The gardens are not very interesting, but afford a pleasant playground for children, and a delicious gossiping ground for their at- tendant nurses. * Couroupita Guiaiiensis. 128 Roraima. Let me now recall the usual daily routine in George- town, A little before six o'clock tea and toast ; after that I never knew for certain what anyone did up to breakfast at half-past nine, probably because my time till then was entirely taken up in getting a bath, dressing, and trying to keep cool, I believe though that business was the occupation. As for riding or early walking exercise, I saw none of it, but then again that may have been through my own dilatoriness, although I doubt it. Breakfast was a very substantial meal, too substantial in fact at the " Kaieteur," and not tempting enough for a hot climate. Long before the traveller reaches Demerara, he will have discovered that no meal in the West Indies is without salt-fish from Newfoundland; that and pepper- pot are standard works. Good fresh fish in George- town is something of a rarity — at least it was with us at the hotel — and when Jew fish is in the market a bell-man goes round proclaiming the fact and the price per pound. The flesh is coarse, but appreciated by the poorer class when it is cheap. Housekeepers also complain of the scarcity of good meat, and certainly the beefsteaks and mutton chops furnished to us were poor. After breakfast, business is attended to with de- creasing energy up to luncheon, and then dies a natural death in the course of the afternoon. About five p.m. all the world — with the exception of the steady whist and euchre players at the club — takes an airing. Those' who have carriages drive out to the sea-wall, which is the promenade, and those who have not walk there. Nursery maids take their charges to the public gardens, coolies lead out cows and oxen to graze, black ''Swizzles:' ]29 boys exercise their masters' dogs, horsemen ride out to the race-course, and unfortunate cripples — chiefly Chinese — in all stages of terrible disease, come forth and beg. A late dinner, followed probably by some delight- ful music — as Georgetown boasts of a very excellent Philarmonic Society — winds up the day. I must not forget to add that it is just possible that its interludes have been filled up by a certain institution of Demerara known as "swizzles." Most cities and towns have some small peculiarity, for which they are as well remembered as for their greater. Demerara and swizzles are inseparably connected in my mind. The exact recipe for a swizzle I cannot give, although I have seen it concocted not unfrequently ; but it is a deliciously cold drink, of a delicate pink colour, and when lashed into a foam by the revolutions of a peculiar instrument called the swizzle-stick, and imbibed out of a thin glass, it makes a very pretty drink. By a wonderful provision of Nature the tree which furnishes the pronged stick, without which the beverage would lose much of its charm, grows abundantly in Guiana. The exact time for mdulging in a swizzle has not been clearly defined, but as a general rule in Demerara it is accepted whenever offered. It is taken in the morning to ward off the effect of chill, before breakfast to give a tone to the system, in the middle of the day to fortify against the heat, in the afternoon as a suitable finale to luncheon, and again as a stimulant to euchre, and a solace for your losses. Before dinner it acts as an appetizer, and it is said that when taken before going to bed it assists slumber. And very fre- quently in Georgetown anything to induce sleep would be welcome, as the incessant "dignity" balls of the K 130 Roraima. negroes are fatal to slumber. The noisier they are, the better they are enjoyed, and a lull of a few minutes only gives fresh energy to subsequent demonstrations. Verily the coloured folk give a literal interpretation of their own proverb, that " what you lose in de jig, you gain in de reel." Even the guttural notes of the frogs, of which there are an extraordinary number in the trenches, are pre- ferable to the negro discord. When Bacchus was rowed along the Styx he could not have been greeted with a more varied frog's chorus than that which day and night salutes the inhabitants of Georgetown. " Awnk, awnk, awnk," roars the bass, " week, week, week," pipes the tenor, " cru, cru, cru," screams the soprano, and then the full choir joins in a refrain which swells and falls with the breeze. One quaint little fellow has a peculiarly sweet note, so exactly like a ■whistle that I have frequently stopped in my walk and turned to see who it was that wanted to attract my attention. Just as plentiful and more amusing are the crabs which frequent the dykes and mud flats around the town. The " calling crabs "* are especially enter- taining, as they wave and beckon with their great claw, and then scurry away at the least attempt to approach them. Often in their fright they miss their holes, then in despair place themselves in fighting attitude, and dare you to the attack. Another common and very hideous creature is the little fish known as " Four Eyes,"t which takes amusement in shooting along the water and stranding itself at every opportunity. The feathered tribe are not strongly represented around Georgetown, but, as a " Birds' Protection * Gelasimus vocans. f Anabhips tttraophthalmus. The Feather Trade. 131 Ordinance " has lately been passed in Guiana as well as in Trinidad, they may have a chance of multiplying. The commonest bird is a species of flycatcher called " Qu'est-ce qu'il dit," which are the exact words it utters ; it is pretty and sociable, and its querulous notes are heard from many a tree and house top. It will be interesting to learn after a lapse of time whether the bird-law has tended to the increase of birds in towns and settlements. Of bright-plumaged birds the hum- ming-birds alone frequent habitations, and it will be chiefly their increasing numbers that will tell the tale. The brilliant family of chatterers, the trcupials, the cocks-of-the-rock, the trogons, toucans, the tanagers, fire-birds,* macaws, manakins, and other gay denizens of Guiana live so far from the haunts of white men that any increase in their numbers can only be assumed. It is singular to note the constant development of the feather trade ; the day is long past when every fine gentleman, king and commoner, decked himself with plumes, but now, when fashion requires them for ladies alone, the demand is far greater. Forests, mountains, and swamps in all parts of the world are ransacked to supply the dealers, and probably, not before the last bird becomes as extinct as the dodo, will the mania for feathers have died out. And it cannot be denied that the plumage of birds makes a most beautiful adornment, and, though in dress, a head here, a wing there, and a bit of the breast somewhere else, is not the most advantageous mode of showing off^ the glistening beauties, yet even the dismembered parts shine with matchless and inimitable tints. In the * Phoenicircus carnifex. K 2 1 32 Boraima. present day there is little that cannot be imitated ; artificial flowers, stones, plants, fruit, fish, and human limbs are so skilfully fashioned as sometimes to deceive the sharpest eye. It has been said, too, that glass eyes have been made so perfectly that even the wearers themselves cannot see through the deception. But birds and their nests defy imitation. A short time before my arrival in Georgetown, the community had been much amused by the advent of a series of commissioners who had come from the United States to inquire into the manufacture of " coloured" sugar. Some cargoes of this sugar had been detained at the custom-house in one of the American ports, under the impression that the sugar had been " artificially" coloured, thereby avoiding the high duties on light sugars. Duly furnished with Government credentials, they came, saw, and departed, fully convinced, I believe, that the "coloured" sugar outcry was what is vulgarly called a mare's nest. One of the commissioners — a very pleasant young fellow — on finding, when he arrived, that he had been forestalled by others, wisely relinquished his sugar researches, and instead established the first telephone in British Guiana between Georgetown and Berbice. The last I heard of him was that he was about to be appointed consul either in British, French, or Dutch Guiana. The versatility of the true American is indeed wonderful. Sugar-making has been so often described that I must refrain from giving an account of a visit to a Demerara plantation, much as I should have liked it. It must suffice to say that there you see the latest im- provements in machinery, the latest scientific appliances Coolies. 133 for vacuum pans, centrifugals,* &c., and in fact sugar manufacture on a grand scale. You also see a veritable "little Holland," as water forms the boundaries of estates, and by water the produce is transported to the mills. Dams and canals intersect the estates, and the navigation system is complete. You see, too; how the welfare of the coolie is attended to, his hospital, his home, his provision grounds, and how much better off in every way he is than in his native land. I once saw a coolie vessel arrive in Georgetown, and though her passengers wept and embraced the captain and officers in their sorrow at having to leave, yet they looked very lean and emaciated in comparison with those 1 afterwards saw working on the estates. The ships which bring them over are well regulated, and as comfortable as circumstances will admit, but the voyage is trying for a non-sea-going race. One of the mates, in answer to a question, told me they were " a docile, uncomplaining lot, but dirty, as they were always using water." The visitor to a Demerara plantation is sure of a hearty welcome, that is always fresh and invigorating, however hot the day or tame the scenery may be. And even in the scenery there is always something interest- ing besides sugar, some strange fruit-bearing tree, some flower or bird, and the cane-laden boats, with a brightly clad figure among the green blades, are always picturesque The country is flat certainly — the only hill I ever found about Georgetown was on the cricket ground — but it is not monotonous if one chooses to look about and * Centrifugals are open round boxes of metal, pierced like gauze. These are whisked round and round at a tremendous speed, and the molasses flying out through the gauze leave the sugar white and dry. 134? Boraima. enjoy it. Even the muddy river has its attractions, as the last time I crossed it after a visit to a plantation it was covered with hundreds of Portuguese men- of war* whose large air sacks and vertical crests shone resplend- ently in every shade of purple and blue. I must not conclude this sketch of social Demerara without alluding to a certain distribution of the government of the colony which, I believe, is peculiar to British Guiana. Besides the Governor, there is what is called a Court of Policy, and also the Combined Court, which consists of the members of the Court of Policy together with six financial representatives chosen by the people for two years. The Court of Policy is composed of ten members, five of them being Government officers, and five elected from the college of Keizers or hlcctors. This college is a body of seven members chosen for life by the inhabitants who possess the suffrage, for which an annual income of six hundred dollars qualifies. The Court of Policy carries on the general legislative business, whilst taxation and expenditure are in the power of the Combined Court. Every member of the Combined Court has an equal vote, and also the power of rejecting, if he thinks proper, a bill passed by the majority. Thus Kings, Lords, and Commons rule in Demerara, and to their enterprise and liberality I owe my visit to Roraima. Mr. McTurk a Government official, who was ex- perienced in bush life, and possessed of qualifications well suited to the purpose, had been commissioned by the Governor to superintend the expedition, and towards the end of February I received intimation to join him at the settlement near the junction of the Cuyuni and Mazaruni rivers, where he awaited me with his boats. * Physalia allantica. 135 CHAPTER XIII. TO THE ESSEQUIBO— BARTICA GROVE — THE PENAL SETTLEMENT — CUYUNI RIVER— EL DORADO— RALEIGH'S CREDULITY — TENT BOATS — CAMP IN SHED — CARIA ISLAND — AN ARCHIPELAGO — KOSTERBROKE FALLS — ASCENT OF CATARACTS — WARIMAMBO RAPIDS — MORA — A NEW YEAST. EARLY on the morning of the 23rd of February the steamer, which was to take me part of the way to the settlement, started from Georgetown. The wharf — or stelling, as the wooden pier is called — pre- sented an animated scene as the fruit-boats were being unloaded, and the vast quantities of pine-apples and mangoes, especially of the latter, were surprising ; some of the canoes were actually overflowing with the golden fruit, and were weighed down to the water's edge. Mangoes form no inconsiderable item in the food of the blacks of Demerara. We were soon clear of the native and foreign craft, quitted the Demerara river and proceeded in a north- westerly direction towards the Essequibo. To the mouth of that river from Georgetown is only about five and twenty miles, and so in spite of one or two delays at different landing-places on the west coast, it was not long before we found ourselves in a vast island-dotted expanse that suggested a lake rather than a river. From 136 Boraima. one side of the mainland to the other, the embouchure of the Essequibo is seventeen or eighteen miles in width, and is divided into four separate channels by islets and sandy shoals... At WaKenaam, one of the largest of these islands, we changed steamers, as from that point a smaller one alone runs up to the settlement, fifty miles further on. Then we were fairly in the Essequibo River, whose breadth here is about eight miles. Of the mainland, we could only see now and then the fringing line of courida* bushes and the chimneys belonging to the plantations, but the island scenery was pretty and varying. In places the luxuriant vegetation had been cleared and plantain farms were seen extending far back into the surrounding bush, with a few tumble- down but picturesque huts in the foreground. These farms are chiefly owned by Portuguese, who make con- siderable profit out of them. Here and there in the open spaces were ovens for burning charcoal, and their proprietors — Chinese — were busily employed cut- ting down trees or planting rice and other vegetable products. Mingled with the bamboos and larger trees were several varieties of palms, of which the most prominent were the Mauritias — Ite — easily recognised by the bunches of red fruit, and the dead drooping fronds which give an untidy aspect to the useful tree. There were also specimens ot thejagua and numberless fan palms,t whose leaves furnish a sort of wax, but the most graceful of all were the manicoles, very straight and slim, and rising to a height of about forty feet. At last, after some hours, the monotonous green of * Avicciina nitida. f Coryplut ccrifera. Bartica Grove. 137 the land scenery was broken by a narrow promontory, on which stands the small village of Bartica Grove, which is situated at the junction of the Essequibo and the Mazaruni. This little settlement is a favourite resort of the Indians from the interior, who come down to trade with the few Portuguese who live there. Besides the latter there are but few whites, the greater number of inhabitants being river-men, who, as their name implies, pass their lives in navigating the waters, their principal occupation being in carrying timber from the various wood-cutting locations. They are a strange race, a mixture of Dutch, Indian, and negro descent, and though skilful and hard-working in their own vocation, yet possess in a marked degree, it is said, the attributes of the half-breed, i.e.^ all the vices of civilization and none of the virtues of the savage. Leaving the Grove on our left, we proceeded up the Mazaruni, and in half-an hour arrived at the settlement. The view here is fresh and charming. On land the rising ground is planted with mango, palms, and shade trees, behind which are seen the neat prison buildings — for it is a Penal Settlement — and the houses of the Superintendent and other officers. Across the river some houses are situated on the bank, and also on the cleared sloping forest land, which is diversified with pasture and huge granite boulders. Below, at Bartica Grove, the mighty stream of the Essequibo is joined by that of the Mazaruni, and higher up there is another meeting of the waters, as there the Mazaruni is joined by the magnificent Cuyuni, whose mouth is nearly a mile in width. About thirty miles up the Cuyuni is an abandoned gold mine, the sole spot in Sir Walter Raleigh's " El 138 Eoraima. Dorado " where gold has up to the present been dis- covered, and even here in such small quantities that the working of it did not pay. Since the days of Raleigh, Guiana has earned a fictitious fame, chiefly through the extraordinary stories set abroad by that adventurer. Historians differ regarding Sir Walter's own belief in the existence of " El Dorado," but it seems probable from his writings that he was capable of believing anything. For nistance, he says, " A similar people were said to live in Guiana, on the banks of the Caora; this may be thought a fable, yet for my own part J am resolved it is true, because every child in the province of Arromaia affirms all the same ; they are called Ewaipanomi, and are reported to have their eyes in their shoulders and their mouths in the middle of their breasts, and that a long train of hair groweth backwards between the shoulders." Again, in speaking of the supposed city of El Dorado, he says that, " for greatness, riches, and the excellent seat, it far exceeded any city in the world, and founded on an inland sea two hundred leagues long, like unto the Mare Caspium." The historian Hume says : " So ridiculous are the tales which he tells of the Inca's chimerical empire in the midst of Guiana; the rich city of El Dorado or Manoa, two days journey in length, and shining with gold and silver; the old Peruvian prophecies in favour of the English, who, he says, were expressly named as the deliverers of that country long before any European had even touched there ; the Amazons, or republic of women; and in general, the vast and incredible riches which he saw on that continent, where nobody has yet found any treasures !" El Dorado. 139 As regards the Amazons and the Ewaipanomi, there are plenty of civilized Indians who still assert the existence of a wonderful race of beings who inhabit certain portions of Upper Guiana, which as yet have been untrodden by white men. Concerning the golden city on the inland sea, it is not improbable that the origin of the romance arose from the fact that the low alluvial lands around Lake Parima were inundated every year to such an extent that the natives navigated the forests in their canoes. The chief of a certain tribe who inhabited this locality, is said to have in- dulged in the luxury of a golden shower-bath every morning, that is, he powdered himself with a glitter- ing but valueless substance called golden sand, which is merely iron ore in minute particles. Hence his cognomen. El Dorado, or the Golden Man. His palace was found to be a natural grotto, the walls of which were formed of micaceous rock that shone with a yellow metallic glitter. It may be that the glittering mica, derived from the granite which is prevalent in Guiana, deluded Raleigh into the belief that it was gold, for he says, when speaking of a ledge of " white sparre or flint," that he endeavoured to break it by all the means that he could, " because there appeared on the outside some small grains of gold .... of which kind of white stone (wherein gold is engendered), we saw divers hills in every part of Guiana wherein we travelled." To return to the settlement. Immediately on land- ing I was met by McTurk, who, in spite of the day being far advanced, wisely determined to start at once ; and so, throwing aside those trammels of civilization, coat, collar, and waistcoat, we stepped into our boats 140 Roraima. and were ready for our trip of two or three months into the interior. Two ordinary-sized boats — or bateaus, as they are called — and a strong well-built canoe composed the fleet. In colour they had been respectively painted red, white, and blue, and each was named after a certain species of frog ; the largest was the " Bura-buraloo," the next was the " Adaba," and the canoe was the " Akoora." The crew consisted of fifteen civilized Indians — Arawaak and Acawais — good and tried men, most of whom had been on short ex- peditions with McTurk, and who therfore understood his ways and were aware that when he said a thing he meant it. that faithfulness and good conduct would be rewarded, ■ and laziness and bad behaviour as surely punished. They nearly all understood a little English, but they preferred a sort of "pigeon" English peculiar to McTurk, and which always reminded me of a stage Dutchman's language. The strongest and most intelli- gent Indian in each boat is the captain, who, seated in the stern, uses his paddle to direct the course. Next to him in rank is the bowman, who has to keep a sharp look out for rocks and shoals. Each boat was laden with provisions,* which were limited as fir as possible to absolute necessaries, as after leaving the boats we knew that the difficulties of transportation would be very great. In addition, there was our own clothing — a very slender supply — guns, ammunition, trading articles, pots and pans, &c., * Provisions intcrnlcd to lust tor tlirL-c months. Six barrels of riour, one and a halt boxes of" cod fish ; three bags ot brown rice ; three barrels of ship's biscuit ; one hundred and forty pounds of bacon ; seventy-five pounds of coflee 5 one barrel of sugar ; one case of brandy; fifty pounds of onions ; twelve gallons of split peas. Also a small quantity of canned provisions. Superloriti/ of Hammocks 141 everything, certainly, reduced to a minimum, but nevertheless, forming sufficiently heavy loads. Before starting, I cast longing eves at two or three luxurious tent-boats, provided with awnings, lockers, and curtains, all of which were denied us; but before many days I recognised the superiority of our own, as the long drought had shallowed the river, and it would have been impossible for the deep tent-boats to have ascended some of the cataracts. Taking our seats in the centre of our respective boats, McTurk gave the word, and in an hour the strong paddles of our crews had placed a considerable distance between us and the settlement, and we were really on the way to Roraima. At one time we feared that our start would prove inauspicious, as the strong wind blowing up the river raised such waves that once or twice we were almost swamped, but gradually we gained the opposite coast, and under the lee of the land entered comparatively smooth water. Owing to the lateness of our departure we soon had to camp, and spying an old shed near the water's edge, we landed, slung up our hammocks, and there passed the night. To a traveller, I know of no cheaper luxury than a hammock. On a former long journey through the tropics I had burdened myself with a folding bed, thinking from very slight experience that to sleep in a hammock would be impossible. But now I discovered that a well-slung hammock, in which you have placed yourself diagonally, not parallel, so that your head and feet are too elevated, is a very delightful place of rest. Bv day a pleasant lounge, by nigh: a clean bed even in dirty hovels, unscalable by insects, light and compact, easily put up and easily taken down, a hammock becomes 142 Roraima. an indispensable companion, especially dear when travel- ling in countries where even the most necessary articles have to be limited. We could hardly have selected a more likely spot for those pests of Guiana, namely, vampires and jiggers. The former frequent the clearings around sheds and houses, and in the dead of night when all are asleep — they never pay their visits as long as even one person in a party is awake — they fasten on an exposed toe or some part of the foot and cup the sleeper, who awakes faint and exhausted. Horses and cattle suffer equally from their attacks, and fowls fre- quently drop dead from their perches, their life blood drained to the very last drop. As a provision against these unpleasant visitors I had provided myself with a long double blanket, so that under no circumstances could a forgetful toe exhibit itself outside its covering. A jigger {^Pulex penetrans)^ as everyone knows, is a toe-loving creature, and makes its nest under the nails, and, if allowed, lays its eggs. As they swarm in every deserted hut and in every old Indian shed, and in sand, it is impossible to avoid them ; morning and evening a strict examination of the feet by a competent Indian is absolutely necessary when travelling in the interior. In spite of great care and watchfulness on our part a search was seldom unrewarded, but we never approached the number once collected by Sir Robert Schomburgh, of whom it is related that a negress once extracted eighty-three from his feet at one sitting. But, notwithstanding jiggers and vampires, the nights on the Mazaruni are always enjoyable because there are no mosquitoes; in many parts of Guiana, especially on the Pomeroon River, these plagues are so bad that cattle have been driven wild by them, and Falls of Koste rhrohe . 1 43 are always obliged to be shut up at night in mosquito- proof sheds ; there, also, a mosquito net is invariably included in the agreement between master and labourer. Here we were free from thern, and a patent hammock mosquito netting that had been given me by a kind friend in Georgetown was devoted to other uses. Next morning we made an early start, and soon passed Coria island, on which a Dutch fort once stood, and the last that we saw of civilization was the little mission-house of St. Edward's, picturesquely situated on the opposite bank of the mainland. Above this point we entered that labyrinth of islands which, together with the innumerable rapids and cataracts, form the chief features of the Mazaruni River for nearly one hundred miles. Only one of our crew had ever ascended the river before, and, as he did not appear to remember much about it, we determined to keep to the main channel, as being the safest, out of the numerous ones into which it was divided. This was no easy matter, as, on account of the lowness of the water, and the great breadth — between three and four miles — of the river, it was often very difficult to decide which was the main channel, and sometimes we found our passage barred by shallows and had to return and seek another. We ascended two rapids, and then came to the rather steep falls of Kosterbroke. A sad interest is attached to this place, as it was here that in 1863 seven young men lost their lives. A pleasure party, consisting of visitors from Trinidad and others who had been engaged in a cricket match at Georgetown, visited the settlement and ascended the Mazaruni as far as these rapids; whilst descending them, the tent-boat capsized 144 Rorainia. and seven of its occupants were drowned. Report says that a midshipman, who formed one of the party, was swept away and given up for lost, but was dis- covered later on sitting on a rock in mid channel, drying a five-pound note in the sun. The ascent of these cataracts affords a very lively and exciting scene. All hands, except the steersman, leave the boat, a long stout hawser is fastened to her bow, and by sheer strength she is hauled up through the rushing waters. Some of the crew wade by the side of the boat, to keep her from the rocks, others swim or dive across from adjacent points to where the best purchase can be secured, and the rest, holding the rope, pull with might and main straight up the current. A charming variety exists in these rapids ; sometimes they may be ascended by taking advantage of the different currents and paddling with great power diagonally across the channel; others have short but steep falls, and others again extend for a long dis- tance in a series of steep inclines, whilst the volume of pouring water in a few is so great that boats have to be carried round them overland. At the Warimambo Rapids, which we reached soon after passing Koster- broke, we had to unload the boats and make a portage of about two hundred yards. A lot of negro wood- cutters, who sat grinning at us on the rocky banks, informed us that it would be impossible for us to haul the boat up those rapids, but our men worked splen- didly, and in about two hours we had loaded the boats and were off again. The river here presented an extraordinary appear- ance from its great breadth and the innunierable rocks which cropped up in every direction. Many of these Trees and Flowers. 145 rocks were covered with the pretty pink flower of some water-plant. The islands and the low mainland were covered with virgin forest, whose intense green was relieved at intervals by the blazing crimson spikes of the kara-kara* or the various tinted canopies of the giant moras. The moraf may be termed the oak of the tropical forests of Guiana, as it far exceeds other trees in dimensions ; its lofty wide-spreading branches, with glossy foliage changing from purple to red, add a distinctive charm to the scenery, but a deceptive one, as frequently we would exclaim. " At last there is some rising ground," which on approach proved to be onlv two or three moras towering above the rest of the forest trees. Besides the moras, we were continually passing many varieties of the valuable timber with which Guiana is so plentifully supplied. Now a green-heart ;|: or a splendid purple-heart, occa- sionally a "letter-wood" tree and numerous " ballis," such as mora balli — balli meaning wood, and when attached to a word signifies akin to : itaballi, hubaballi, silverballi, &c.§ McTurk from practical experience in superintend- ing Government wood-cutting was quite an authority on timber, and cast many longing eyes on grand trunks that would have squared from twenty to twenty-eight inches, with a length of from seventy to eighty feet. Overhanging the river, were also many shrubs of the " mahoe,"|| whose bright yellow flowers contrasted with climbing purple petroeas and crimson passion- flowers. But the bright colours were mere islets in * Chaconia Calycophyllum. f Mora excelsa. J Nectandra Rodiei. § Oreodaphne sp. II Hybiscus elatus. L 146 Roralma. the surrounding sea of green, and it was necessary to observe closely in order to note the varying forms of vegetable life. After the Warimambo, we came almost immediately on some very steep rapids, but which fortunately had sufficient depth of water to allow of the boats being hauled up without unloading. Here one of the crew nearly lost his life, as he was swept off his feet by the strong current, and only just caught the rope in time to save himself from being carried over a dangerous eddy, in which, as he was a weak swimmer, he would probably have been sucked under and drowned. He attributed his safety to the strictness with which the Indians had observed the proper respect due to a trogon that had flown over our heads in the morning ; they have a superstition that, if on setting out on a journey they should turn their backs to this species of birds, ill luck will surely follow. That evening we camped under some fine green- hearts that grew on the banks, which were here higher than we had hitherto seen. At this period camping was a very short business with us, as owing to the prevailing fine weather no shelter was necessary. On landing, some of the crew col- lected fire-wood and the cook prepared his pro- visions ; two or three cut away the underbrush and slung up our hammocks on suitable trees apart from the others, and after they had hung their own the camp was finished. As McTurk had been unable to obtain at Georgetown a cook who was willing to work and carry loads like the other men, we were entirely at the mercy of the Indians, whose ideas of cookery were of the most primitive description. To them their Camp Cookei'i/. 147 rations of salt fish, rice, and fat bacon were luxuries, and a small alligator they considered a prize, but McTurlc and I often agreed that our very plain fare would have been improved by even moderate cooking. Of canned meats and relishes, we had to be very sparing, but of flour we had an unlimited supply. But here again we failed in having any means of ren- dering the flour palatable, although it perforce formed the chief item of our meals. It was prepared in two ways ; in the first, the flour was kneaded into a cake of dough, roasted on the embers and called a " bake ;" in the second it was kneaded into a ball of dough, boiled in a pot and called a " dumpling ;" under either name it was equally leathery and indigest- ible, and only with butter, of which we had a very small supply, and brown sugar, was it possible to eat it. Later on in our journey we made a slight improve- ment in the bakes and dumplings by adding some of " Eno's Fruit Salt," which had been recommended to us as containing valuable properties for a cooling drink in case of fever, thereby causing the flour to rise and the cakes to become lighter. It was certainly a novel baking-powder, but it succeeded. In future years should a traveller discover one of these " bakes" on the banks of the river, he will be puzzled about its origin, and will probably conclude that it is the fossil remains of some extinct species of shell fish. The crew took it in turns to cook for themselves, whilst the smartest ot them became our own particular " chef," and a strong active young fellow, called " Charlie," acted as our trenchman. Charlie could turn his hand to anything, from building a house to making a basket, and was always ready and willing ; he and L 2 14S Roraima. his duplicate, Sammy, were the ones who worked hardest in and out of the water ; they carried the heaviest loads, they shot the most game, were most skilful in raising shelters, and were the two who were never ill. Sometimes in the night a rain storm would come on, and Charlie was always ready with tarpaulins to stretch over our hammocks. The nights were usually warm, but the mornings were chilly, and an early plunge into the river was like a warm bath, so great was the difference between the temperature of the air and water. And those morning and evening swims in the clear brown water — brown from the colouring matter of the wallaba* trees — of the broad Mazaruni were delightful, especi- ally when contrasted with the tiny bucketful and the narrow bath-room of the hotel at Georgetown ! * Eperua falcata. 149 CHAPTER XIV. A NEW HOUR— MARABUNTAS— SINKING OF THE BURA — ROCK FOR- MATIONS — ARA HUMMING-BIRD — FALLS OF YANINZAEC — JABIRU — CABUNI RIVER— SHOOTING FISH WITH ARROWS — PACU — AN INDIAN CAMP— GREEN-HEART BREAD— INDIAN LIFE — A PAIWORIE FEAST -DUCKLARS — CURRI-CURRIS — SUN BITTERNS. a /" I A HIRTEEN o'clock," was the extraordinary McTiirk roused the slumbering Indians at daybreak. The origin of such an unwonted hour has always been wrapped in mystery to me, but it sufficed that the men understood it, and, a few minutes after the cry had resounded through the camp, coffee was readv, ham- mocks taken down, boats loaded, and we commenced another day of river travel. Our nights under the purple-hearts had been cool and pleasant, and had pre- pared us for a day which turned out to be one of incessant falls and rapids. The crews were hardly ever out of the water, and the sun poured down with such power that even the well-tanned backs of the Indians were scorched and blistered. Between the wooded islands acres of rock rose two or three feet above the water, revealing the most curious formations and indentations, varying in size and shape from perfectly rounded bullet moulds to smooth oval 150 Roraima. cauldrons. About half-past ten we stopped for breakfast, and whilst it was being prepared I wandered around the island with my gun in search of game, but found nothing. I was not quite unrewarded however, as on passing under a low-hanging bough I received a sharp and painful nip, as if a pair of red hot pincers had taken a piece of flesh out of my back. At first I thought a snake must have stung me, but to my relief on looking back I saw it must have been done by a " marabunta," whose nest was hanging near. The sting of these Guiana wasps is extremely pain- ful, and it was predicted that fever would probably set in ; although it caused a good deal of inflammation, how- ever, I was none the worse, but avoided marabunta nests in future. When paddling, the Indians were continually annoyed by large bumble-bees, which buzzed about their heads, and sometimes followed the boats for more than a mile; 1 do not know what attracted them, but as they did not trouble me I could afixDrd to laugh at the frantic efforts of the men to drive them ofl^. That evening we camped on the left bank of the mainland near a creek, whose cold stream was very refreshing after the warm river water we had been drinking. Here McTurk and some of the crew suffered from slight feverish attacks, but a good dose of quinine set them up again, and next morning they were ready to proceed. On this day we met with an accident which might have occasioned a very serious loss. Two of the boats had been hauled safely up a long rapid, down which the water was rushing with great velocity, but the large one — the Bura-buraloo — was struck by a wave and commenced to sink ; the crew, instead of Sinldng of the Bitra-haraloo. 151 slackening the rope, held on, and only loosened it when it was too late, as the boat drifted a short way down and sank. Fortunately it was not deep, and in less time than it takes to relate we had reached her, and rapidly unloading conveyed her contents to the neigh- bouring rocks. Then commenced such a drying as probably had never been witnessed on the Mazaruni before. Tarpaulins were laid, and the wet rice, soaked biscuit, and drowned peas spread over them. The flour was not much damaged, as the water had made a cake round the inside of the barrel which kept the rest dry. The greatest loss we sustained was in the brown sugar, as not more than half was saved, and that in a semi-liquid state. This was a misfortune, as the Indians were intensely fond of sugar, and it formed part of their daily rations; indeed without it their wretchedly made coffee would have been barely drink- able. Knives, forks, and spoons were swept away, and had I not had a small travelling case with another set we should have been badly off. Our guns, clothes, and hammocks happened to be in the boat, and all were in a sad plight, but the sun shone so hot and strong that, though it drove us from the rocks to the shade of an island, everything gradually dried, and after a detention of about four hours we were enabled to proceed. Our camping ground that night was near some rocks whose formation was more extraordinary than that of any we had hitherto seen, resembling the bones of mammoths, and the fossil teeth and jaws of gigantic animals of the old world. The following day, after ascending a few rapids and traversing the wide stretches of almost still water that lay between them, we stopped for breakf^ist at a pretty 152 Bora una. spot where a dry water course between two islands formed a dark cool lane, overhung by the meeting branches. Wandering up this I disturbed a beautiful Ara humming-bird,* which I recognised bv its two long tail feathers, and the flash of red and golden green. He flew from a dead tree — which had been split down the middle, probably by some wandering Indians to obtain honey, as I found the glutinous remnants of an enormous comb — and then returned to it, but I could not catch another glimpse of him, although I searched long and ardently, as I was anxious to obtain a speci- men of this gorgeous little creature. Near this place we shot some fine macaws, whose long scarlet and blue tail feathers were quickly made into head-dresses by the crew. With the exception of parrots and cranes, we had not seen up to the present time a great variety of birds ; the most numerous were orioles, trogons, and toucans. The latter were a never- failing source of amusement, as, with slow and jerky flight like that of a woodpecker, the ungainly birds crossed and recrossed the river, uttering their mono- tonous cry, " Tucano, tucano." The commonest of this species was the large one called by the Indians "bouradi," whose enormous bill is of the most brilliant and variegated tints of red, yellow, blue, and black. The crested cassiquef was another common bird, and the only one which uttered musical sounds; it was very delightful to hear one of them, pouring forth his rich and ventriloquial notes, and with raised crest and outspread golden tail singing love-songs to his mate as she swung in her aerial hammock. Some of the pouch nests of these birds that we saw * Topaza pella. f Cacicus citrius. The Yaninzaec Cataracts. 153 must have been nearly three feet in length, and, as they are invariably suspended from the ends of most slender boughs, they are safe from the rapacious maws of monkeys and other marauders. As a further pre- caution against danger, it is said that they always build on trees where the the dreaded marabuntas have their nests, and in return for the protection thus afforded feed their young on the larvse of their patron insects. We were now approaching what we had heard were the most formidable cataracts in the river, namely, those of Yaninzaec, and hardly had we with difficulty dragged the boats up one set of rapids before we heard a roar of water that betokened a great fall. A turn in the river then brought us in full view of a most pictu- resque scene. Forming a crescent were five separate cataracts, fifteen or twenty feet in height, and divided from one another by wooded islets. The river rushed with great force over the rocky barriers, and the foam flakes were carried past us in large white masses, or before reaching us were caught in the back eddies and lay like snow-banks under the green bushes. When we first appeared, a great jabiru* — or negro cap, as it is sometimes called on account of its black head and neck — was stalking about under the falls ; and above, on a ledge of rock overhung by the golden flowers of the cedar-bush, three white egrets stood and looked in amazement at our unexpected intrusion, then gather- ing up their long legs flapped off to a distant tree. After a lengthened investigation as to how we could reach the top of the falls, we discovered the Indian "portage;" so, after landing, we unloaded the boats, carried the baggage over the rocks for a distance of * Mycteria Americana. 154 lioraima. about one hundred yards, and then camped. That night I was awakened bv the patter, patter of heavy rain on the leaves overhead, and discovered that McTurk — who always provided for my comfort before he thought of his own — had stretched the only available tarpaulin over my hammock, and that he himself was crouching under a tree trunk trying to keep his hammock dry. On these journeys a dry hammock is of the utmost importance, as, if it once gets wet, it takes a long time to dry, and fever is the inevitable result of sleeping in a damp one. The rain forced us to commence our day's work even earlier than usual, and so by seven o'clock we had carried the boats over the " portage " on our shoulders, had loaded them, and were again wadine through the rapids above the falls of Yaninzaec. Shortly afterwards we passed on our left the Cabuni River, which here empties itself into the Mazaruni, and then another baggage portage became necessarv. Then two more cataracts were overcome, and on the following day we arrived at a fine stretch ot river comparatively free from rapids. On that day we were gladdened by the first sight of hills, but still the scenery remained tame and monotonous. Onlv here and there was the all-pervading green, stained by the young dark-crimson leaves of the wallaba trees, and but for the slim matapolo palms scattered in places, and the hot sun, we might have been anywhere rather than in the tropics. Only when we landed and on penetrating the forest could we appreciate the strange torms and luxuriant growth of the tropical vegetation. Then we saw the great moras and Bertholletias strangled in the folds of Fishing wiili Poison. 155 some gigantic creeper, and with their branches laden with arums and the curiously indented leaves of the pothos family; twisted bush-ropes and lianes of all de- scriptions linked the trees together and chained them to the earth, and while the ground was free from heavy growth, a chaos of intermingling plants and foliage formed a dense canopy overhead. In many places on the river, and especially near the rapids, we had seen the dams which the roving Indians had made for the purpose of catching fish, but we had not seen any of the natives ; now, however, we knew that we were at last approaching them, for on the rocks around one of the dams we discovered some freshly beaten hai-ari roots which had been used for poisoning the water. Fishing with poison is a favourite method with the Indians, as they thereby obtain the greatest quantity of fish with the least possible exertion. Dams are built on the rocky ledges with loose stones, and with spaces left open for the fish to enter ; the roots of the hai- ari — a leguminous creeper — are beaten on the rocks with heavy clubs until they are in shreds, which are then soaked in water ; the yellow acrid juice thus obtained is finally poured into the ponds after the inlets have been stopped. In a few minutes the fish appear on the surface, floating aimlessly about as if intoxicated, and are either shot with arrows, or knocked on the head with clubs. Enormous numbers are some- times killed in this manner. The flesh of the fish so destroyed, receives no more deleterious qualities than does that of the forest game which the natives shoot with arrows poisoned with the deadly " wourali." For preservation, a barbecue is erected, and the fish are smoked over a fire. 156 Roraimn. In the open river, other means have to be adopted for obtaining fish, and the usual method is with the bow and arrow. Indians are not only wonderfully quick in seeing fish, but also possess great skill in shooting them, and, when it is remembered that allowance has to be made for refraction, the resistance of the water, and the movements of the fish, it is sur- prising how successful some of them are. McTurk, who was no mean performer himself with the bow, told me of most extraordinary shots that he had witnessed. Amongst our crew we had no very brilliant marksmen, and we had to depend in a great measure for our supplies on the Indians whom we chanced to meet. Seven or eight different kinds of arrows are used, and each has its own particular name. One of the most curious has its iron or bone point only slightly fixed to the shaft, and to it is attached a long string which is neatly wound round the stem. When the fish is hit the point detaches itself, the line runs off, the floating arrow shows the posi- tion of the fish, and the Indian at once gives chase. All the arrows are very long, some that we used being between five and six feet in length, and made from the stem of a certain reed.* Several delicately flavoured fish are found in the Mazaruni, but the most delicious of all is the pacu,t which feeds on a species of lacis that grows abundantly near falls and rapids. They are very shy, but their red gold colour renders them easily discernible in the clear pools. Owing to the extent of water-poisoning which had preceded our ascent of the river, we had only obtained one of these fish, but now, as we were * Gyncricum. -j- Myletes pacu. Acawais. 157 approaching the Indian camp, we hoped to obtain a good supply of both fresh and smoked. Suddenly we espied a solitary Indian paddling with might and main to get away from us; we gave chase, but in his light wood-skin he speedily distanced us. Then at the end of a long stretch of river we saw what appeared to be a line of animals swimming across. It proved to be a string of canoes, whose occupants, frightened at the appearance of the white men's boats, had left their fishing ground and were making all haste to their camp. This we soon reached, and found about twenty men, women, and children squatting on the rocks like brown monkeys, and evidently very nervous about the strangers. They proved to be Acawais, and could certainly not be complimented on their good looks. They were short of stature, had olive complexions, and hair like a black mop. The women added to their charms by a few pot-hooks tattooed into the corners of the mouth, and by staining their limbs with blue stripes, which at a distance gave the idea of tight-fitting drawers. But their dress was strictly one of imagination, a few square inches of bead apron — queyou — taking the place of the old original cestus. The men were attired in the buck-skin suits in which they were born, with some pieces of straw in their nose and ears, and instead of a bead apron they wore a strip of calico called a "lap." The poor things looked very thin and half-starved, and we learn that owing to the drought the cassava crop had been a poor one, and they had been reduced to eating a wretched sort of bread made from the grated nuts of the green-heart, and now had descended 158 Roraima. the river on a fishing expedition. iMoore in one of his poems asks : " Know you what 'midst such fertile scenes That awful voice of famine means ?" To such a question these Indians might answer " yes." A more improvident race does not exist; as long as thev can satisfy their immediate wants they are con- tent. They seldom Uve on the banks of the large rivers, but build their huts — two or three of which often constitute a village —near some retired creek. There they plant a little cassava, and when that is exhausted they pack their household goods on their backs, and, as they express it, " walk" /'. and the vessel was laden with an Immense treasure of jewels, gold and silver altar plate, valuable pictures, coin, and costly ornaments. The jewelled tiara of the Virgin of Guadaloupe, which was sent from Valencia, was alone of almost priceless value. From La Guaira the San Pedro Alcantara sailed up the coast to the island of Margarita — now known as Nueva Esparta — where the troops disembarked and defeated the Venezuelan forces stationed there. The brave Margaritans, who, during the War of Inde- pendence, proved themselves to be as truly patriotic as the Llaneros, retired to the hills and inaugurated a guerilla warfare which harassed the Spaniards beyond measure. Still their towns were open to attack, and Asuncion, Pampatar, Norte, and others, were sacked and destroyed by the invaders. Thus the wealth of the San Pedro was again added to, and, as there was much treasure in these towns, it is supposed that little was saved from the sudden descent of the conquerors. After the plundering of the last town, orders were received that the San Pedro should sail at once to Cumana. To celebrate their successes a grand revel was held on board one night ; casks of wine and spirits were broached, and success to the ensuing ex- pedition was so eagerly drunk that It Is doubtful whether there was a single sober man in the vessel. Then arose an alarm of fire. How the fire originated is unknown, but it speedily reached a cask of brandy, The San Pedro Alcantara. 315 which burst, and the deck was instantly deluged with liquid fire. The flames were soon darting through the hatchways and lapping the sails, and so quickly did the conflagration spread that nothing could have checked it, even if sober men had tried to stem the danger. As it was, the wild mob, mad with drink and fear, thought only of flight. With difficulty the boats were lowered, and men sought to reach them, either by jumping into them from the deck, or battling with each other in the water to clutch their sides. Of the few boats that there were, all except one were either capsized or stove in. In the meantime the fire made its way to the powder-magazine. Suddenly a tremendous explosion rent the air, a lucid light hung for a moment over the doomed vessel, and the air was filled with mangled corpses and fragments of the ship. The after-half of the San Pedro Alcantara had been blown to pieces, and the forward half quickly sunk beneath the waves. Over a thousand men perished in the fire and ocean on that night. The magazine had been situated be- neath the strong chambers wherein were stored the Spanish treasure-chests, the riches of the people and churches of Venezuela and the plunder of the towns. All was now scattered and buried in the sea. In a paper describing this disaster, it is said that in 1816 an American Captain visited the scene of the wreck, one mile from the island of Cuagua, and suc- ceeded in securing about 30,000 dollars in silver. Again in 1845 a company was organized in Baltimore for the purpose of seeking the lost treasure. The remnant of the wreck was easily found, but owing to the lack of proper diving apparatus the attempt 316 Borahna. proved a failure. A few months later the same com- pany sent out another expedition. This search was prosecuted under an agreement with the government of Venezuela. During the first three months quanti- ties of copper, huge rusty anchors and guns, were dragged up, but only about 1,500 dollars in silver coin were recovered. The search had been confined to the immediate vicinitv of the sunken wreck, and the divers became so dissatisfied by the ill results of their labour that they refused to continue unless those in charge of the explorations would test the theory they formed, which was that the force of the explosion had hurled the treasure-chests some distance away from the spot where the ship went down. They were humoured, and the vessel was anchored in another place. The first time the diving bell went down on the new ground, 75c dollars were picked up in two hours, and this suc- cess continued so well that in six months about 200,000 dollars in silver had been recovered. Then the major portion of the divers and crew having surreptitiously possesssed themselves of such portions of the treasure as they could secrete, stole a boat and set sail for La Guaira. The remainder of the party returned to Baltimore, having been unable to pursue the exploration for want of divers. In 1 849 another American barque recovered several thousand dollars in silver, but how much is not known, as the Captain suddenly hauled his anchor on board and set sail for the Horn, bound for the new El Dorado on the Pacific coast. In 1856, 28,000 dollars were recovered, and, in 1858, 30,000 more. In April, 1877, a Captain Folingsby went to Venezuela to obtain per- mission from the government to search for the lost Search for Lod Treasure. 317 millions, and effected a contract whereby, in considera- tion of the payment of five per cent on all sums he might recover, he was granted the exclusive right to drag, dredge, and dive for the sunken treasures of the San Pedro Alcantara for the period of six years. Armed with this contract. Captain Folingsby organized an ex- pedition for the thorough and exhaustive exploration of all the ocean bed over which the treasure might have been scattered by the explosion of the ship. He has had extensive experience as a diver, and having been in the employ of the Baltimore company in 1845 and 1846 in their searches, is thoroughly familiar with the ground on which he is to work. He believes that the strong boxes which held the gold, jewels, and church plate were not burst by the explosion, but simply tossed away to a greater distance than seekers have hitherto deemed it worth while to go from the wreck. No gold has as yet been found, but simply silver, and this he accepts as evidence of the correctness of his theory. He thinks that he can go over all the ground in about eight months. His dredges and drags are of the most approved patterns, fitted with special appli- ances such as chair-nettings, to let sand escape, but to hold everything else. As 500,000 dollars are about all that have hitherto been recovered, he has the hope ot finding at least four or five millions and, with every requisite that knowledge and unrestricted capital can supply, he confidently expects to achieve success. As he was to sail from New York early in 1878, the vessel we saw near Cumana must have been his. With that idea we cordially wished a prosperous finale to the ocean-mining of the enterprising Captain. From Savanilla onwards to Panama the little we saw '318 Roraima. of the coast was uninteresting. "We were seldom near enough to appreciate the colour-chords on beach, hill and savanna, and the sombre monotone of the land seemed but an extension of the yellow green sea. The nights were calm and beautiful, and as we sailed on and on through the great star-chamber, the vessel appeared to plunge through a sea of fire. Long gleams of blue, green and purple crested the waves that were only raised by the vessel's bow, and the teeming phosphorescent life made the starry waters more brilliant even than the sky. But pleasant as the nights were, the French Mail Com- pany interfered with our entire enjoyment of them, by a silly order which forbade passengers to take their pillows on deck. They might sleep there if they chose — and everyone did choose — but under no cir- cumstances were pillows allowed. Various were the devices made use of to disguise the forbidden articles, but those who indulged in them were generally awak- ened by a polite reminder from one of the officers or stewards that the pillows must be taken below. Then the different ruses had to be repeated. The pillow- prohibition was the only fault that could be found with this comfortable vessel. Our little voyage along the Spanish Main had been slow and deliberate, but as the old Spanish proverb says "step by step goes a long way," and at last we entered a pretty horse-shoe bay surrounded by low misty hills, and were presently moored alongside one of the fine wharfs at Colon. Here we were at the nar- rowest point of that narrow isthmus, to cross which by water has been a problem to the great nations of the world for three centuries and a half. The project of connecting the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans by a canal The Panama Route. 319 is a scheme of such vast commercial importance that it may be interesting to take a rapid glance at a few of the numerous surveys made with a view to inter-oceanic communication. As early as 1513 the Spanish explorers believed in the existence of a narrow strait leading across to the Pacific. In the following year, the Spanish Government gave a secret order for the pre- paration of a coast-chart to determine whether such a strait really existed. In the hope of finding such a passage, Cortez sent out his expeditions and prepared a map of the Gulf of Mexico, which he sent to Spain in 1524. Then the European Powers explored and searched the whole coast-line of the New World, and at length realized the fact that from Colon the con- tinent extended uninterruptedly north and south. Just as the Suez Canal is only an enlargement of the plan conceived and executed by the Pharaohs 4,000 years ago, so the Panama or Darien route, when com- pleted, will be the practical result of a project contem- plated as far back as three centuries and a half. In 1 55 1, a Spaniard of the nameof Gomara proposed that a canal should be constructed to connect the oceans, and suggested three of the same routes that have been under the consideration of modern engineers. " It is true," said the proud Castilian, " that mountains obstruct the passes, but if there are mountains there are also hands ; let but the resolve be made, and there will be no want of means ; the Indies, to which the passage will be made, will supply them. To a King of Spain, with the wealth of the Indies at his command, when the object to be attained is the spice trade, what is possible is easy." But soon Spain fell from her high estate, religious intolerance benumbed her energies, and 320 Moraima. the project of the canal became at last a mere legend. In 1780 the Nicaragua route was first projected, and Captain — afterwards Lord — Nelson conveyed a force of 2,000 men to San Juan de Nicaragua for the con- quest of the country, and in one of his despatches said, " In order to give facility to the great object of Go- vernment, I intend to possess the great lake of Nicaragua, which at the present may be looked upon as the in- land Gibraltar of Spanish America. As it commands the only water-pass between the oceans, its situation must ever render it a principal port to ensure passage to the Southern Ocean, and by our possession of it Spanish America is severed in two." The expedition was a failure, however, and nothing came of Nelson's project. In 1 8 14, the Spanish Cortes decreed the opening of a canal, but the matter was deferred and the decree never executed. In 1825, after the Central American States had secured their independence, they asked the co-operation of the United States in constructing a canal. In 1828, the King of the Netherlands pro- posed to undertake the work, and sent over General Verveer with instructions to build the canal. The General found Central America engaged in one of its regular half-yearly revolutions, and the matter was deferred until 1830, when the revolution in his own country put an end to the plans. In 1836, Mr. John Bailey made some preliminary surveys for a route across Nicaragua, which were brought to a close by the dissolution of the " Confederation of the Centre." In 1850, under appointment from the Atlantic and Pacific Ship-canal Company, Mr. Childs, of Philadelphia, began a survey on the Pacific side, and after examining several Inter-Oceanic Commission. 321 routes chose the line which terminated in Brito Harbour, giving very strong reasons against the Lake Managua route, which have been confirmed by every subsequent survey. British capitaHsts were interested in this route, and would have adopted Mr. Child's plans if favourable arrangements could have been made with Nicaragua. But the Nicaraguan Government finally killed the scheme, as far as British capital was con- cerned, by demanding twenty-five per cent of profits. In 1873, President Grant appointed an Inter-oceanic Canal Commission, to examine the various proposed routes and report on the most feasible. The Commis- sion considered the following surveys : the Isthmus of Tehuantepec ; the Nicaragua route, via Lake Nicara- gua; the Isthmus of Panama; the San Bias and Chepo route ; the Caledonian and North routes ; the Cale- donian and Sucubti route ; the Cacarica and Tuyra route ; the Atrato and Truando route ; and the Atrato- Napip route. The Commission unanimously reported that the Nicaragua route possessed, both for construc- tion and maintenance of a canal, greater advantages, and offered fewer difficulties from engineering, com- mercial, and economic points of view, than any one of the routes shown by surveys to be practicable. This route, beginning on the Atlantic side, at or near Grey- town, would run by canal to the San Juan River, thence following its left bank to the mouth of the San Carlos River, at which point navigation of the San Juan begins, and by the aid of three short canals of an aggregate length of three and a half miles reach Lake Nicaragua. Thence across the lake and through the valleys of the Rio del Medio and the Rio Grande to what is known as the Port of Brito, on Y 322 Roraima. the Pacific coast. No doubt exists as to the entire practicability of constructing this canal, the cost of which, with all the necessary adjuncts — locks 400 feet in length and 26 feet depth of water — may be set down as at least twenty million pounds sterling. The last survey of the several routes has very lately been completed by Lieutenant Commander Wyse of the French Navy. After an exhaustive survey, he judges that the best route for a canal is what he describes as the Acanti-Tupisa route. This starts from the Gulf of Darien on the Atlantic side, following the Atrato River for a short distance and passing through ihe valley of the Tupisa to the Tuyra River, which flows into the Gulf of San Miguel. Commander Wyse has proposed that M. de Lesseps should be President of an International Commission that shall assemble before long to examine the different lines that have been surveyed, and to select whichever will be, in their judgment, the easiest and most desirable to construct. It is probable that the choice of routes will rest between the Acanti-Tupisa and that of Nicaragua, but when work will actually be commenced on either is doubtful. Before the Atlantic and Pacific join hands across the Isthmus another century may elapse, and the problem propounded four hundred and fifty years before may still be unsolved. 323 CHAPTER XXX, COLON— DEPARTURE — COLUMBUS AND MR. ASPINWALL — RAILWAY ACROSS ISTHMUS — SCENES ON THE ISTHMUS— TELEGRAPH POSTS — HOLY GHOST ORCHID — PANAMA HATS — PARADISE — MOUNT ANCON — PACIFIC MAIL STEAMER — ON THE WHARF AT PANAMA — PANAMA FROM THE SEA — LAST LOOKS. FROM the sea Colon had looked pretty and mysterious ; gauzy vapours floated over the town, and all we could see were the outlines of palms, a few roots, and behind the surrounding forest the dim shadows of the distant hills. We landed, and with the vanished mists all romance disappeared. We stepped from the shelter of the roofed wharf, and in the dirty, decayed village that lay before us beheld Colon, or the city of Aspinwall as it is called by the Americans. The principal street runs along the shore, and its shambling frame-houses with verandahs and balconie3 are of the most tumble-down description. Drinking saloons predominate, and the various stores and shops are stocked with a miscellaneous assortment of goods, such as shells, calico, coral, toilet articles, parrots, hats, pale ale, boots, oranges, bananas, and ready-made cloth- ing. The untidy tenement houses, the dirty lanes, the swamps, and the apparent effort to make life in the tropics as uncomfortable as possible, give an impres- sion of squalid poverty. Nor are the inhabitants un- Y 2 324 Roraima. suited to their dwellings ; from the sallow German Jew who dispenses iced drinks across a dirty counter, to the slippered negro who beats a gong at meal time in front of a wretched eating-house, all are unkempt and unclean. The officials and their houses are too few in number to counteract the general atmosphere of unpicturesque decay, and both they and their well- appointed offices render the native unsightliness more conspicuous by contrast. After arriving in Colon the principal aim is to get away as soon as possible, " Thank goodness it is'nt a full stop," was remarked by a perspiring passenger, whose extreme heat must account for the want of brilliancy in his joke. The Panama Railroad Company facilitates this object by starting a train for Panama as soon as the passengers' luggage has arrived from the steamer. As the main street is the terminus of the railway, the entire population assembles to bid fare- well to their only source of income. Then may be seen a motley crowd, each member of which is en- deavouring to extract some coin or other from the pockets of their late guests. Black porters appear at the last moment with some trifling article that they have taken care their employer should forget ; jet- black Africans, Jamaica negroes, half-castes, yellow Peruvians, naked children, both black and brown, all endeavour to sell some article or other, either cakes, fruit and sweetmeats, or fans, coral, and smoking-caps of palm-fibre. Nor are the passengers themselves of less varied nationalities, as the steamers from New V'ork and St. Thomas have brought emigrants, business men, pleasure-seekers, fortune-hunters, and travellers from all parts of the world. Statue of Columbus. 325 Here is an entire German family, from the grand- mother to the baby in arms, and not one of them can speak other language than their own ; there are some Mexicans carrying on a rapid conversation in mixed French, English, and Spanish, with the negro fruit-sellers, and those five ladies, who have paid such a tender adieu to the captain of the American Mail Steamer, are tourists — probably you will learn that they are not travelling via Panama on account of its cheapness, but for the sake of the sea-voyage. Then there are several commercial travellers, each of whom thinks it correct to wear one of the fibre smoking- caps and chaff" the crowd in " h-less " English. Those rosy-cheeked damsels, with flower-decked hats and general gaudy aspect, are Irish servant-girls who have left New York to seek a fortune in San Francisco. On leaving the wharf I had passed two of these maidens, who were looking at the beautiful statue — the only beautiful thing in Colon — of Columbus and the Indian. Said one to the other, " Sure an' its Mr. Aspinwall himself, the man who built the town." At last, amid a faint cheer, or rather a hoot of deri- sion, the train moves slowly off", and we pass almost at once from the so called civilization into the primeval forest. Perhaps we were a very ignorant set of pas- sengers, but strange to say none of us — and some had crossed the Isthmus before — knew to whom the rail- road or the land belonged. Some said both land and road belonged to England, others to America, and a few that both belonged to Colombia, who leased it to the United States. Afterwards we found out that the Panama Railway is American, by contract with the 326 Boraima. Government of New Granada,* to whom the land belongs. With the history of the survey, and the building of the road, the world is familiar from the time when in 1850, "two American citizens leapt, axe in hand, from a native canoe upon a wild and desolate island, (Manzanilla), their retinue consisting of half-a-dozen Indians, who clear the path with rude knives," up to the 2jth. of January, 1855, when, "at midnight in darkness and rain, the last rail was laid, and on the following day a locomotive passed from ocean to ocean." The undertaking was intrepid, the expense enormous, and the loss of life tremendous. Pestilential vapours, reptiles, poisonous insects, fevers, incessant rains, working waist deep in water, insufficient food and shelter, all combined to sweep off thousands of the labourers. Americans, English, Irish, French, Germans, Austrians, natives of India, South America and the West Indies fell victims to the malarious climate, but misery and suffering seems to have fallen most heavily on the Chinese. Of these, one thousand had been * Mr. Otis says : " Among the most important concessions by the terms of this contract was one guaranteeing that all public lards lying on the line of the road were to be used gratuitously by the Company, also a gift of 250,000 acres of land, to be selected by the grantees from any public lands on the Isthmus. Two ports, one on the Atlantic and the other on the Pacific (which were to be the termini of the road) were to be free ports; and the privilege was granted of establishing such tolls as the Com- pany might think proper. The contract was to continue in force for forty- nine years, subject to the right of New Granada to take possession of the road at the expiration of twenty years after its completion, on payment of five millions of dollars ; on the expiration of thirty years on payment of four millions ; and at the expiration of forty years on payment uf two millions. Three per cent was to be paid to the New Granada government upon all dividends declared. The entire work was to be completed within eight years. Great Mortality. 327 brought to the Isthmus by the Company, and though as much care as was possible was taken with their health and comfort, yet before a month had elapsed almost the whole of them became affected with a suicidal tendency, and scores ended their existence by their own hands. The memory of these sad details throws a shadow over the interesting journey of forty- seven miles from ocean to ocean, where each advancing step has only been gained by the sacrifice of a human life. The traveller will gain some idea of the deadly swamps directly the train' has crossed the artificial isthmus — (for Colon is situated on the little island of Manzanilla) — which connects the island with the main- land. Dense mangrove thickets border the waters, both of the sea and swamp, the stems of those near the sea being loaded with clusters of small oysters. White egrets and an occasional roseate spoon-bill grace the banks with their presence, and the black forbidding water of the marshes is redeemed by the starry crinums and aquatic plants which grow in great luxuriance. After passing Mount Hope, where the cemetery of Colon is situated, we are deep in the forest jungle. Cassias, pleromas, and all kinds of feathery-leaved shrubs mingle with giant cedros, ceibas, and locusts, and all are knitted together by the purple convolvulus, or by the chains of some thick-stemmed liane. Most conspicuous are the palms with their crimson clusters of fruit hanging like tassels below the green crown, and the red and yellow blossoms of the helianthus. Fleet- winged heliconias dart among the shrubs at the forest edge, and in the shady glades, which sometimes break the monotony of the jungle, silver-blue morphos 328 Roraima. and yellow and orange pieridae flit heavilv along. Now and then a flock of parroquets wheels rapidly in the air, or a black and yellow troupial pipes from a high tree top, but birds are not numerous, with the ex- ception of the ugly *' black witches,"* that treat the passing train with the utmost contempt. To those who have been accustomed to travel through tropical forests only, after toilsome journeys on foot or on mule- back, it is an agreeable sensation to glide — although there certainly is a good deal of jolting — swiftly through the luxuriant vegetation in a comfortable railway carriage. And yet it was strange, in the trip I have been speaking of, to witness the indifl^erence with which most of the passengers viewed the many- pretty scenes. Some did not see them at all, but played whist during the whole journey, others slept, and not a few improved the occasion by deliberately drawing up the wooden blinds, so that nothing outside should disturb their attention whilst they read. " Look at the grave-stones !" screamed one of the passengers, who hitherto had been impervious to the novel scenery. When the information was gently broken to her that the small stone-like columns were not grave-stones, but merely pillars to support the wires of the telegraph,j- she was quite disappointed. * Crotophaga. f Owing to the rapid decay of the wooden poles which were formerly used, the chief engineer (Colonel Totten) conceived the idea of moulding a support of concrete. A small scantling of pitch pine was placed up- right and surrounded by a jointed wooden mould, fifteen inches in diameter at base, tapering to about eight inches at the top and sunk into the earth sufficiently for support ; this was filled with concrete. When the mould was removed, it was found firm and strong and well adapted to the pur- pose, being perfectly weather and insect proof. These posts have the appearance of hewn stone. Ever-changing Scenes. 329 Near the stream called the Mindee, we saw patches of cultivated ground, and perched on the high knolls were a few picturesque wattled and thatched cottages, with clumps of bananas, mango-trees and palms. Gradually the ground became less swampy, and by the time we reached Gatun Station, situated on the eastern bank of the Chagres River, had given place to dry savanna land that stretched to the hill range. Almost immediately after leaving the station we crossed the Rio Gatun, and again entered a region of swamp and jungle. On the left rose the twin peaks known as the " Lion " and the " Tiger," conical in shape and clad with thick forest. And thus we sped on through an ever- changing scene ; from marsh and swamp we passed to plain and forest hills, and from the silence of the wilderness to the life and cheerfulness of the little settlements that dot the road. Here was a swamp covered with pretty aquatic plants, then a stream almost hidden by overhanging bamboos, then forest trees laden with orchids, and from whose branches the pendent nests of the orioles swayed to and fro, or a narrow country-lane walled in by petroea and convolvuli so dense and of such shapely growth that they appeared like old ruins over which time had thrown a mantle of verdure. One view of the Chagres River, which we crossed near Barbacoas over a fine wrought iron bridge, was very charming. There were wide stretches of meadow-land with cattle farms, and in the broad stream which curved off to the undulating hills cows stood knee-deep, and under the high banks groups of women wearing flowers in their black hair were hard at work clothes-washing. It formed a pretty picture in the happy blending of wild forest and rural -330 Jlovaima. scenery. At a native village, composed of three rows of picturesque huts, staiiding in an open glade sur- rounded by palm trees, we found much needed refreshments, as breakfast that morning had been small and early. All the inhabitants vied with each other in their efforts to secure customers, yet though the competition was great, fixed prices prevailed. There was a rare mixture of home and foreign productions; Bass's ale, claret, sardines, biscuits and potted meats were carried by some, whilst others bore trays of bread, cakes, native sweet-meats, pine-apples, oranges, inga pods, mangoes, and other fruits. Here was a little urchin with a bottle of milk, and there was another with hard-boiled eggs and neat little packets of pepper and salt. The chief trade was in eggs, and though they were not sold *' four for a dollar " as in the ante-railroad days, yet the charge was sufficiently remunerative. Probably, the sellers agreed with the dairy-woman who said that a smaller price than that at which she sold her eggs " would not pay for the wear and tear of the hen." Old travellers shook their heads ominously at the quantity of mangoes, starapplcs, and granadillas that were consumed, and hints of Panama fever were thrown out ; but the novel fruits here, and the magnificent Guayaquil white pine-apples that afterwards tempted us at Panama seemed to be irresistible. The latter were not mere consolidated lumps of sugar and water like the West Indian pine, but equalled in flavour, and in size surpassed, those of our hot-houses. It was a miracle that no one was harmed by the fruit-con- sumption, as everybody appeared to follow the example of Artemus Ward, who " took no thought as to his Panama Hats. 331 food ; if he liked things he ate them, and then let them fight it out among themselves." Some bulbs of the beautiful orchid* known as the " Holy Ghost," on account of the marvellous image of the dove that rests within the exquisite flower-cap, were for sale, but none of the plants were in bloom, as they seldom blossom before July. They are numerous on the Isthmus, and grow luxuriantly on the decayed trunks that abound in the hot, damp, low-lying grounds. Some of the natives wore straw hats of a crimson tint, which colour is extracted from the leaves of a vine called "china." As yet but little attention has been paid to this dye as an article of commerce, but it must be of considerable value, as neither sun nor rain alters the colour which is said to be permanent. The vine grows abundantly in the hill districts, and sheds its leaves annually. Such a dye would be vastly superior to those so called " fiist " colours, whose only " fastness" consists in their tendency to run. The hats themselves were coarse and very unlike the famed "Panama," specimens of which were only to be seen on the heads of some of the passengers from the West Indies. Although the plant — Carludovica palmata — from whose young uncxpanded leaves the " Panama hats "f are made, grows on the Isthmus, yet the manufacture is confined to Moyobamba, on the banks of the Amazon, Guayaquil, and the Indian villages of Peru. * Peristeria elata. f The author of "Three Years in Chili," says, "The grass of which they — Panama hats — are made is found chiefly in the neighbouring pro- vince of San Cristoval. They can be braided only in the night or early in the morning, as the heat in the day-time renders the grass brittle. It takes a native about three months to braid one of the finest quality, and I saw some hats which looked like fine linen, and are valued at fifty dol- lars apiece even here," 332 Roraima. After leaving the refreshment-station the grade makes a gentle ascent until the summit — 260 feet abov3 sea level — is reached, and then we descend the Pacific slope. Here the scenery is bolder than pre- viously, but the vegetation is as luxuriant as ever. Quickly we rush through cuttings and across rocky spurs, the Rio Grande winding through the forest maze below us; the pretty valley of Paraiso, enclosed in high conical hills, is passed, then once more we enter alternate stretches of swamp and cultivated savanna land. We see meadows and cottages lying at the base of Mount Ancon, from whose summit Balboa, in 15 13, saw the Pacific, and thus proved the fallacy of the belief in which Columbus died, that the New World was part of India and China, Then groups of huts, chiefly composed of flattened tin cans and shingles, came in view, and beyond them rose the Cathedral towers and the red roofs of Panama. Through the groves of cocoa-nut palms we caught sight of the glit- tering sea, and in a few minutes we entered a commo- dious station close to the wharf, where a tue lies ready to take passengers to the ocean steamer bound for California. From Panama I had intended to visit Quito, and to descend the Amazon, but on account of ill-health I was advised to postpone that journey for a time, and to hasten to a colder climate. Of the town I, there- fore, saw but little, and after a short ramble went on board the Pacific mail-steamer. Recardins the vessel, I will only say that she was very comfortable, and the food and attendance were very bad, and the ice and liquor supply grossly insufficient. The poor table was ascribed to the cheap rate of passage-money Panama. 333 from New York to San Francisco, but when I pointed out that the Company reimbursed themselves by exorbitant coasting charges — a first-class ticket from Colon to San Francisco costing several dollars more than the entire passage money from New York to San Francisco — a shrug of the shoulders was the only answer. It is a misfortune for travellers that the Pacific Mail Steamers have no competitors on this line. It might be imagined that in the great central hive of commerce, the old features of Panama would have been replaced by those of more modern date. But it is not so. Once leave the bustling wharf and freight- depot, loaded with coffee, cacao, ivory nuts, pearl shells, india-rubber, ores, hides, woods, balsams, quina bales, sarsaparilla, wool, and other products collected from the two great continents, and pass through the quiet lanes into the narrow streets of the town, and the active life of the present is forgotten in the all-pervad- ing memories of the past. It is like passing from the busy work-shops of the stone-cutters into the quiet shadows of the adjoining cemetery. Convent ruins, voiceless bell-towers, grass-grown walls, broken arches and fallen pillars, all tell of the departed glory of Panama. Mellow time-stains have tinged alike the carved stone-work and the rich mouldings of the plas- ter facades, and over the crumbling edifices and through the window-piercings, passion-flowers and luxuriant creepers twist and twine in the wildest confusion. During my short ramble, I rested for a moment on the ancient ramparts with their old-fashioned sentry towers, at whose feet lay the waters of the Pacific; so still and glaring in the intense heat, and reflecting so 334 Roniima. many colours from the pink-brown walls and high tiled roofs that it resembled a sea of old Bohemian glass. The hot sun had caused the streets and walks to be deserted, and the only signs of life were the swinging hammocks in the heavy balconies, and the turkey-buzzards,* which with out-stretched wings sunned themselves on every roof and steeple. The natives of Panama have an odd legend, which accounts for the absence of feathers on the head and neck of these birds — gallinazos, as they call them. It is said that after the deluge, Noah, when opening the door of the ark, thought it well to give a word of advice to the re- leased animals. " My children," said he, " when you see a man coming towards you and stooping down, go away from him ; he is getting a stone to throw at you." "Very good," said the gallinazo, "but what if he has one already in his pocket.''" Noah was taken aback at this, but finally decided that in future the gallinazo should be born bald in token of its remarkable sagacity. And now, before bidding farewell to the reader who may have glanced through these pages, let me record one more scene. Our vessel lay at anchor far out in the bay, as owing to the reef and the great rise and fall of the tide — between twelve and twenty feet — no ships of heavy tonnage can anchor within two miles of the wharf. Close to us were the pretty green islands of Perico and Flamenco, and through a quivering haze, which gave additional charm to the lovely panorama, we saw the bold and rocky promontory on which stands the city of Panama. Behind it rose the volcanic peak Ancon, crowned by a signal-station — La Vigia — * Catlmrtes aura. A Sudden Squall. 335 forming the centre of the coronet of undulating hills that encircle the land. On either side were glimpses of white beach, palm groves and valleys, and away to the south-east, in a tangled wilderness of forest and brush-work, a solitary tower — at least we were told it was a tower — marked the site of the " ancient city of Panama." In the surrounding silver-green haze the town stood out like a dainty mosaic, whose tints of red, pearl, and brown flashed brightly in the warm sun- light. And in harmony with the tender beauty of the scene was the stillness which rested on all around ; save the creaking of the anchor which was being weighed, and the distant notes of a song from some shore-returning boat, no other sound broke the silence. Suddenly, some startled birds flew shrieking over- head, the water lost its sparkle and the colours faded ; a rush of footsteps forward made us look to windward for the cause. Close to us, and rapidly approaching, was a long white line of foam which was driven along under a dense curtain of mist and rain. In a second the squall struck the vessel ; the awning which the crew had hurried forward to save was torn to shreds, with a loud crash one of the ship's-boats was dashed against the hurricane deck, and for a moment the ship qui- vered and careened over from the extraordinary force of the wind. As quickly as it came, so quickly it passed, but the land was hidden from view by the grey mist, and before it had dispersed we had steamed out into the open sea, and Panama was soon left far behind. APPENDIX. NATIONAL BOUNDARIES BRITISH GUIANA. Articles Published in "La Opinion Nacional," by THE Lawyer, Francisco J. Marmol. Official Edition. Caracas: National Printing Office. 1878. (Translation.) APPENDIX. THE tracing of territorial limits has always been con sidered of the highest importance, not only because it determines and consolidates rights which constitute the welfare of the present, buc also because it frees nations from conflicts in the future. Guided by such considerations, we propose seriously to call the attention of our National Government towards the estab- lishment (fixing) of our boundaries with British Guiana, as we consider that survey of the greatest public interest and of the highest transcendency. The importance of the territory of the State of Guiana, under the diverse phases that it may be considered, is beyond all doubt and discussion. It notably attracted attention since the times of the Spanish Government, and since then by the frequent invasions and controversies about boundaries, between Spaniards, Dutchmen, and English- men. Our Republic began to fix, with marked interest, its con- sideration upon that territory since 1841, in consequence of the deeds of Schomburgh upon the Barima, always in pursuit of the great mouth of the Orinoco. Those deeds gave rise to the preliminaries of a Boundary Treaty, initiated in London in 1841, and which did not merit the approval of our Govern- ment. When in 1857, ^^ found ourselves managing the Government of the Province of Guiana, we had occasion to confront new and more exaggerated pretensions consummated by the Governor of Demerara, at the time when the discovery of the mines of Tupuquen powerfully attracted public attention. It even got to be officially maintained that those auriferous lands were within the limits of British Guiana ; and in so fxlse an idea, expeditions were authorized and exploring licenses granted to Engineers, who might carry them out in the name Z 2 340 lioraima. of the Government of Great Britain. We opposed ourselves vigort)usly to all this in fultilment of our official duty ; we maintained the exclusive right of the Republic over those lands, in controversy with the English Vice-Consul, and we gave a documentary account of everything to our National Government. Such a number of acts reveals undoubtedly the marked tendency of our neighbours for those regions, to invade pro- gressively our territory, induced to it without doubt by the indecision of our boundary lines, and the easy and frequent communication between both territories. There are later acts of noteworthy significance, and we believe it is our duty to place them clearly before public consideration, and very speci- ally before the National Government, for the purpose of inspiring the profound conviction of the importance of the demarcation about which we are discoursing. In the vicinity of the river Amacuro — a navigable and im- portant affluent of the Orinoco, which empties to the west of Barima — there exists an Indian village belonging to the district Curiapo, Department of Zea. On talcing our last census, in 1874, some British subjects from Demerara, who trade with those Indians, claimed the non-incorporation of that village in the census of the Republic, with the pretext that it is under the jurisdiction of the Government of Demerara. Fortunately our Commissioner for taking the census energetically opposed that design, and the Indian village was incorporated in it. Still further: an Indian (of the tribes of the Moroco, a river which undoubtedly belongs to us, as it rises and empties in our terri- tory) having committed a murder, was taken to Demerara to be judged. The defendant's lawyer demurred on the ground of the incompetency of that tribunal, because the crime had been committed in Venezuelan territory, and to that nation belonged also the indictment. The controversy being carried to the superior tribunals, it was declared that there was com- petency to continue the suit, because the territory as well as the accused were under the jurisdiction of the English nation- ality, and this opinion was printed in the official newspaper of Demerara. The acts which we have already narrated and others still which we omit, not to be prolix, demonstrate the great neces- sity of fixing definitely on boundary lines with the neighbour- ing British Guiana. The want of that demarcation, the proximity of the territories, and their easy and frequent com- munication by diverse wavs are the causes why they ct)Mtinuc slowly, but progressively, to invade us; an invasioji that may Apidend'ix. 34 1 be perfected by the great distance of our capital cities, aiiJ without the public authorities being able to be warned. For example, by the Yuruari, an affluent of the Cuyuni, which runs navigably close up to Tupuquen. By the Batonamo, an affluent of the same river, and which is situated in the neigh- bourhood of Tumeremo. By the road of the Palmar seeking the waters of the channels of the Toro, which communicate interiorily with those of the eastern Delta of our Orinoco till they descend to the currents of the Moroco. Still further and of graver consideration. There exists the tradition of a land communication between the mouths of the Essequibo and the interior of our Guiana — a communication which is not at all unlikely, since it is well known thac the sources of the Pumaron and of the Moroco descend from the hill country of Imataca, which penetrates considerably into our Guiana territory. The facility of such communications being allowed, and the proper industrial interests of both terri- tories, the consequences of an unsettled state of boundary are as obvious as grave, and worthy of consideration by the high national powers. It should be known and kept well in remem- brance that there exists a constant and frequent commercial traffic between the English establishments of Demerara and the interior of our channels of the eastern Delta of the Ori- noco, that the Indian inhabitants of these districts are found provided with all kinds of goods for their clothing, with powder and arms for their hunting, effects which they obtain either from the English colonists who come to trade with them, or get for themselves when travelling to Demerara ; that some of these traders fix their residence among our Indians, and come to establish families. And what will be the result of that proceeding in no distant time ? that in lands situated on the banks of our rivers, tributaries of the Orinoco, populations will be formed whose instincts, whose interests will not be those of Venezuela; a prediction that is not exaggerated if we bear in mind the ignorance and simple disposition of those Indians, and the little interest with which past governments have unfortu- nately regarded the immense advantages and the vast future of that territory. Grave, very grave conflicts will arise for the Republic the day in which these Indians, ours to day, influenced by what- ever suggestions, become inclined to invoke British Nationality. We understand that the English language is no longer un- known to many of those Indians. We do not exaggerate upon vain hypotheses. It is indisputable that our boundaries extend beyond the Essequibo. Such was the insurmountable domi- 342 Uoraima. nation of Spain, such is ours as their legitimate successors. Every occupation from the western bank of the Essequibo towards the mouths ot the Orinoco has not been, neither is it in fact, anything but an occupaticm always opposed by Spain, never accepted by us, and which no legitimate right can con- solidate. Well then, if by occupying, in fact, part of the western banks of the Essequibo and of the mouths of the Pu- maron, they aspire to the domination of those rivers and the territory which they occupy, will there be no foundation for believing that when that occupation is consummated upon the interior tributaries of the Orinoco, the same pretensions will be unfulded ? Nobody at present disputes with the Republic the exclusive domination over that river which involves the vastest and grandest future. The day in which it must be divided with any other nation, it will decline under all its aspects, princi- pally if we treat with a foreign power with institutions contrary to ours. Its internal and external security will be in a great measure compromised, the first military line of its defence ex- posed. Under a commercial aspect it seems superfluous, writing in Venezuela, to call to mind the advantages of the navigation of the Orinoco. It will be sufficient to consider it from the western confines of our territory, serving as a base to the future prosperity of these districts, and carrying its waters to the provident Casiquiari to open a way for us to the regions of the Amazon. To descend then in its course to receive from the territory of Granada powerful affluents like the Meta, the Arauca and others that put us in communication with the in- dustrious States of Colombia, so efl-"ectually helping to the prosperity of both nations. Later, by its right bank to promote with astonishing facility the industrial and mercantile develop- ment of the extensive State Guiana — one might say maritime at the same time as continental — very fecund in natural wealth. By the left bank, and by numerous affluents that form an immense network of water communications, to foment the agricultural and commercial growth of important States to the South and West of the Republic — Apure, Guarico, Zamora, Portuguesa Cojedes y Zachira. Afterwards to run over the Eastern States where all its banks have easy and secure ports, with navigable tributaries that penetrate extensively into those same States running over immense belts as suitable for agricul- ture as for stock-raising. Then to descend majestically to the ocean by an infinity of canals that fertilize the fruitful lands of its beautiful Delta. Such is in a general way the course of the Orinoco, such is Appendix. 343 that immense water-way of four hundred leagues of navigation, whose exclusive domination the Republic must never share with any other nation. And it is not that we are partisans of that selfish and retrograde policy that Rosas maintained in Buenos Ayres, nor that we aspire for our Orinoco, to the res- trictions which Brazil maintains over the Amazon. No, ours are other designs. What we do not want, is that our territory upon that river should be invaded as by alluvion, slowly but surely, for the want of a settlement by boundaries. What we do not want is that on those banks populations should be encouraged that may have another spirit, other inte- rests and other tendencies that are not essentially Venezuelan. What we do want is that no nation may be able to allege any right, of whatsoever nature it may be, over the banks of that river that may disturb our exclusive domination, and give rise sooner or later to questions about territorial limits, nor about any regulations restrictive of our free traffic and com- merce like those which disturbed Paraguay and the Argentine Republic — whose inhabitants live on the banks of the La Plata — and which served as a pretext for a prolonged as well as a disastrous and bloody war. We wish that our maritime ports, like our interior rivers, may be open as they are to all the na- ti(jns of the world, as becomes a civilized people ; but we wish also above all that the territory of the Republic may remain integral, and that its rights may be properly respected. Entering now into the question of boundaries, we maintain the following conclusions : — First : Our limits extend beyond the Essequioo up to the limits of French Guiana. Second : Spain, as the first discoverer and first occupier, and of whose rights we are the legitimate successors, always maintained her boundary lines beyond that river. Third : The occupation in fact, first by the Dutch and afterwards by the English does not give a right to the exclusive domination of the Essequibo. Fourth : The Dutch possessions never went beyond Cape Nassau. Fifth : The boundaries proposed by the British Mi- nister must be rejected as invasory of our Guiana territory. For greater clearness let us invert the order of these propo- sitions. That Spain, as the first occupant, always maintained her boundaries beyond the Essequibo, in spite of the Dutch possession, which it always considered but as an occupation in fact, diff^erent documents of indisputable authority evidently prove. In the general map of the province of Cumana sent to Spain by the Governor Don Jose Dibuja in 1761, and which was properly approved, it said that the province of Guiana is bounded on the East by all the coast in which are found si- 344 Rnraima. tuated the Dutch colonies of Essequibo, Berbice, Demerara, Corentin and Surinam ; from which it is clearly deduced that Spain considered these possessions as Dutch colonies established on territory belonging to her. So certain is this, that on tracing in the same map the Southern boundaries, it says : by the South the dominions of the very faithful King of Brazil. Here exists a true acknowledgment of territorial domination which does not occur with the Dutch possessions. With such boundaries was erected the province of Guiana by Royal Decree, June 4, 1762, under the command of Don Joaquin Moreno de Mendoza. In proof of this right, always maintained by Spain, may be cited the Royal Decree of May 5, 1768, confirming the arrangement that the Upper and Lower Orinoco and Rio Negro should remain in charge of the Governor of the province of Guiana, in which is given, as the Eastern boundary of this province, the Atlantic Ocean. It may also be adduced, in proof of the assertion, that we are maintaining the Royal Decree of September 19, 1777, des- cribing the boundaries of the province of Guiana incorporated already, as was also Upper and Lower Orinoco. In it is also given as the Eastern limit, the Atlantic Ocean. From these antecedents, deduced from official and authentic documents, the truth of what we have stated is evidenced, that Spain, as dis- coverer and first occupant, maintained her boundaries beyond the Essequibo, and did not consider the Dutch possessions but as an occupation in fact. Such was undoubtedly the cha- racter of the Dutch colonies to which we are referring. Two acts came afterwards to modify that occupation. The Treaty of Munster, ratified in 1648, and that of Aranjuez in 1791. By the first, Philip IV. recognised the sovereignty and independence of the Netherlands, and agreed that the high contracting parties should remain in possession of the countries, forts and factories which they occupied in the East and West Indies. By the second, bases and conditions were established for the extradition of the deserters and fugitives in the Ameri- can colonies. These agreements considered in the light of the principles of the Law of Nations, it cannot be put in doubt that Spain recognised the possession of the Dutch colo- nies, since, in regard to them, she undertook to treat with Holland as one power with another. However, if this is true, if that possession was recognized, it is also true that Holland, by virtue of those very trearies, was subject to the common condition of conterminous and subordinate nations, in conse- quence of the established rules and prescriptions of the Law of Nations for the territorial division between bordering nations. Appendix. 345 It is not in accordance with the principles of that Law, neither has it ever been so, nor will it ever be, that the occu- pation of the mouth of rivers in undivided territories between conterminous nations, should confer any right for acquiring the exclusive domination of those rivers, or of the territories which surround them. Such a principle would be equivalent to a justification of the invasions, and to proclaiming the right of force as a legitimate title to territorial property. The Law of Nations prescribes the contrary. It establishes that for the demarcation of boundaries between nations who are joint holders, natural boundaries are to be preferred, such as rivers, mountain chains, &c., and that if those rivers have great vo- lumes of water, each oneof the contiguous nations has the domi- nation over the half of the breadth of the river, or all the bank which it occupies. Such are the conditions of the Essequibo. The territories of our Guiana and of British Guiana are naturally of curved boundaries. So that even raising the right of Holland to the height of that of Spain, which is ours, there is no kind of reason whatever for the supremacy which is claimed over the Essequibo. In almost all its course we dwell on the bank, and it may be said to rise in our territory. We have then, at least, an indisputable right to the domination of one half of its width and to its free navigation. The doctrine that we have explained is so generally acknowledged and accepted that we think ourselves that we can dispense with the production of the authorities on which it is supported. It is among those points on which there is no divergence in the Law of Nations. The occupation in fact, then, first by the Dutch, and lately by the English, does not give any right to the exclusive domination which is claimed over the Essequibo. That the Dutch possessions never passed beyond Cape Nassau, and that Spain repulsed with force every invasion toward the Orinoco, among other and conclusive proofs, the Royal Order of October ist, 1780, clearly demonstrates. In it in- structions are given to Don Jose F. Inciarte to destroy a fort which the Dutch had constructed on the right bank of the Moroco. Incontrovertible as is the right of the Republic to maintain its boundary beyond the Essequibo, it cannot forego that line without exposing itself to grave perturbations in future. Every other demarcation compromises the integrity of our territory which should be defended on its Eastern Hank with the basin of that river. The demarcation proposed by the British Minister since 1841, offers the gravest difficulties besides in- justice. First. — Leaving out the Essequibo, it begins in the Moroco, 346 Boraima. and comes to compromise, in great part, the course of the Cuyuni. It should be borne in mind, as of the highest impor- tance in the fixing of our boundaries with British Guiana, to preserve entire the course of the Moroco and of the Cuyuni, which belong to us exclusively, as they rise and empty in our territory. The first serves as boundary to our Eastern Delta of the Orinoco, it communicates with all its channels, is of extraordinary importance to the internal security of the Re- public, and may serve as a vehicle of clandestine commerce. The second runs extensively into the mainland of our Guiana, and navigable rivers that encircle its interior are tributaries to it. To permit part of its course as a boundary would be the same as to permit foreign navigation in our Guiana territory. Second. — The mountain ranges and the rivers to which the alluded demarcation refers not being fixed astronomically, it is exposed to further invasions and exaggerated pretensions that may compromise the tranquillity of the Republic. Third. — The English possessions which may be established on this side of the Essequibo will open a passage to the North in order to be on the banks of the Orinoco, and then will arise complications of immeasurable magnitude. They must then reject the limits proposed by the British Ministry as invasive of our territory. Our general conclusion then may be formu- lated in the following terms : The question of boundaries between ourselves and Great Britain is reduced purely to a question of fact, viz. Up to where did the Dutch establish- ments, recognized by Spain, extend ? and whose domination was transmitted to Great Britain by her treaty with the Sove- reign of the Netherlands in 1814 ; setting out from the prin- ciple that our interior limits, founded on authentic documents, extended beyond the Essequibo up to the borders of French Guiana. Some will say that we have lost time, that England is a powerful nation, of eminent rank, among the Powers of Europe, and will not abdicate her claims upon the Essequibo, and on the territory of Guiana to which she aspires. No, we reply, the question is not of cannons or of squadrons ; it is of Inter- national Right, of principles consecrated by eyes before which all civilized peoples of the world bow respectfully. Nor do we believe that Great Britain, whose historical precedents in the splendours of our Independence, give her titles to our con- sideration and high esteem, and who boasts of her respect and importance to the other nations, would found the solution of her boundaries with us on the preponderance of her force. But if, unfortunately, it should be so, we are in possession of Appendix. 347 indirect and legitimate means to make the rights which with such evident justice we maintain, be respected. The importance of the demarcation of our h'mits with British Guiana brings us again to the arena of discussion. Supported by official documents of absolute authenticity, we have proved the most important of our conclusions in our former explana- tion ; that Spain, as the discoverer and first occupier, had always maintained her boundaries beyond the Essequibo, that she had repelled with force every invasion from the banks of that river toward the Orinoco. We reproduce now those documents entire, no longer to prove an argument, but to demonstrate that the question of our boundaries with Great Britain is not situated — nor onght to be — in the region of con- troversies, but in that of consummated acts. Let us enter into the matter. Among those authentic docu- ments, two, above others, surpass, and are of the highest transcendency, if they be not decisive. The instruction of the Intendente- General of Venezuela to people the province of Guiana, and the exploration of the Eastern Delta of the Orinoco by virtue of that very instruction ; documents corro- borated by the authority of the Sovereign of Spain, who was then the Sovereign of that territory ; documents that are in the fullest harmony and consequence, and are completed the one by the other. Respecting the first, it is to be observed that, with indisputable right, Spain made her limits beyond the Essequibo up to the frontier of French Guiana. As regards the second, it is evi- dently proved that the Dutch possessions occupied, in that epoch, only the banks of the rivers near the sea, without pene- trating far into the interior of the country. We will occupy ourselves later, in this same writing, with the legitimate con- sequences that emanate from those acts authentically proved. We think also of the highest importance the exploration of the Eastern part of the Lower Orinoco, carried out by the Spanish engineer, Felipe de Inciarte, and more important still the Royal approbation of March 9th, 1780, which gives to that instruction, 10 those traced boundaries, to that exploration, the seal of the national sovereignty which indisputably Spain was competent to do in those times in which those acts were consummated, and it conferred on them irrevocable authority within and without the Peninsular dominions. One of the most important results of the commission con- fided to Inciarte is that exploration of the Eastern Delta of the Orinoco in which were comprehended the Barima, the Guaima, the Moroco, and the Pumaron the latter is designed 348 Boraima, under the authority of Bauruma. The exploration of the rivers is an act of authority of national sovereignty ; so the Lavir of Nations has recognized it. Spain exercised that right exclusively over that territory and over those rivers without any kind of obstacle, and without the participation of anv other nationality. We may then allege in all time the exercise of that right with certain and indubitable success in the question of boundaries, with Great Britian principally, as she has not desisted in her claims over the Barima. However, let us raise the question to its true height. Let us fix it in its proper place, analyzing at length the documents adduced, in order to give it its genuine significance. From this analysis will result, undoubtedly constituted on a solid foundation, the right of Spain, which is our own. The instruction of the Intendente-General of Venezuela — in order to occupy in the province of Guiana, for its object, for the genius and character of its dispositions by the faculties with which that functionary was invested, and by the Royal appro- bation which it received in 1780 — is not after all anything else than a Government order to occupy a territory in the posses- sion of Spain ; and as a consequence of the occupation which was ordered, the boundaries of that territory were traced. Let us demonstrate this. The instruction says : " The commissioners shall try to occupy said lands, as belonging to Spain, their first discoverer, and not ceded afterwards nor occupied at the time by any other Power, nor have they any title for it — advancing in the occupation by the eastern side as much as may be possible until they reach French Guiana." And what were those lands which the Intendente of Venezuela was commanded to occupy as belonging to Spain ? The Litcndente had surveyed them before. " At the back of the Essequibo and other Dutch pos- sessions, running east up to French Guiana and south up to the river Amazon is situated the territory, unoccupied on this part, and only occupied by Pagan Indians and a large number of fugitive negroes, slaves of the Dutch, and also from the plan- tations of Guiana." The Intendente of Venezuela speaking from Caracas, say s that the phrase, " at the back of the Essequibo " means '' beyond the Essequibo." Here then in the clearest manner, in the most explicit way, is the authority of the Spanish sovereign fixing his national limits, with just and unimpeachable titles, in land of his own. Every nation has a right to trace the boundaries of the territory which it occupies, and it is the duty of the other nations to respect these boundaries, as long as they arc not disputed by others with better titles. That Spain was sovereign Appendix. 349 of the territory which now belongs to us in Guiana, and that she had the right to trace its boundary lines, are asseverations placed beyond all doubt and controversy. We should rather say they are true acts consummated. And in truth, it would be superfluous, except for the claims of Great Britain, to open a discussion to sustain the titles of Spain in the disputed terri- tory, after that for more than three centuries they were re- cognized by all the Powers of Europe ; after having been recognized by Holland — the very one from whom England derived her right — in public treaties like those of Munster and Aranjuez ; after having been recognized also in public treaties by Portugal, the only Power of Europe that could have been able, as discoverer, to compete with Spain in the regions of Guiana, but that never dared, respecting those agreements, to overpass the boundaries of what now constitutes French Guiana. To discuss the titles of Spain after they have been solemnly recognised by England herself in the Treaty of Utrecht ! And no one less than Great Britain has a right to dispute ter- ritories acquired by Spain with the title of discoverer and first occupant, she that has made use of these same titles and same rights. If not, what right had she — Great Britain — to cede to the North Americans by the Treaty of 1783, in which she recognised their independence, the territory which constituted the primitive Confederation of the North i* No other right except that of discoverer and first occupier. And why deny to Spain, and to us now, her legitimate successors, equal rights to those which Great Britain has exercised by public treaties. Returning again to the document which we are analyzing, we find in it, by explicit acts, the exercise of the public power, by means of a magistrate, who, with full conscience of the rights of the Sovereign whom he represents, orders the occu- pation of Spanish Guiana, and traces its boundary lines. Paragraph II. — " The Commissioners shall endeavour to occupy said lands, as belonging to Spain, their first discoverer, and not ceded afterwards, nor occupied at this time by any power, neither have they any title for it." Paragraph I. — " The principal and greatest importance of this business being, not to work uselessly the securing the said boundaries of the said Province of Guiana, that begins on the Eastern part of it at a point where the Orinoco empties into the sea, called Barlovento, on the border of the Dutch colony of Essequibo " Paragraph XXX.— ''^ The principal object is the occupa- tion and security of the boundaries of the Province of Guiana, on the East of Essequibo and French Guiana." 350 Roraima. Such Government acts, sanctioned by the authoritv of the Sovereign of Spain, give to this document the character of a direct and unimpeachable proof in the question of boundaries that we are elucidating. And will Great Britain be able to present documents of equal nature and with equal titles ? Has she presented them up to now ? As a result of the preparations of the Intendente-General of Venezuela, they proceeded to the exploration of the lower Delta of the Orinoco. The official Report of Inciarte which contains it, is an important document of high significance under various aspects. In the first place, it conhrms the idea which the instructions of the Intendente give in respect to the nature and true position of the Dutch colonies in the times to which it refers — 1779 — situated on the banks of the rivers near the sea, and without penetrating far into the interior of the country. Inciarte explored all the territory embraced between the Ori- noco and the Essequibo, and finds no establishments, nor buildings of any kind with the exception of the small fort of Moroco, whose insignificant nature he describes, and that he was ordered to destroy it by express order of the King of Spain. And where is the act of our national sovereignty in virtue of which we may have abdicated the right that we have to the immense extent of territory which extends from the Essequibo to French Guiana ? Who has marked for us the limits of those possessions ? "Who has marked those boundaries ? Great Britain, intercepting us by means of the Essequibo. And still more is claimed j they deny us all share in that river, and limits are proposed invasive of our territory. And we must not cede any more. It is not just, neither politic nor convenient. Every foreign invasion on this side of the Essequibo ruins our territory. The British possessions which might commence on that flank, increasing themselves towards the North, would become part of the banks of the Orinoco ; while advancing towards the south, they have a speedy way to the auriferous zone of our interior. Lord Aberdeen well understood this when he proposed to our Minister in London — Eortique — according to ofhcial data that we have before us, that the English Government would cede territory in Barima, provided that of Venezuela would yield on the Cuyuni. That Great Britain ought not to consider herself exclusive mistress of the Essequibo, she herself has said in the most solemn and explicit manner. There exists in our iMinistrv of Foreign Relations a commu- nication which she made by means of the public Alinister, in Appendix. 351 1840, of the commission which she had given to Schomburgh to explore the Essequibo, and mark its Hmits. Certainly Great Britain would not have made such a communication if she had considered herself possessed of the exclusive predominance which she now claims over the Essequibo. Neither is the object conceived of informing our Government of the establish- ment of their boundaries on that river, if they did not consider the Republic joint possessors of its waters. That communiea- tion involves an explicit acknowledgment of our right. The vacillation of Great Britain certainly contradicts her claims over Guiana. Before the exploration of Schomburgh, she commu- nicates officially to our Government, giving public testimony that she considered the Republic joint holder in the waters of the Essequibo. But after the exploration, and when the in- telligent English engineer had, without doubt, revealed the immense advantages of that water-way, by its prolonged exten- sion, by its numerous affluents, by its ramifications that extend to the Amazon, then they deny us all right in the Essequibo, and they propose to us boundaries which extravagantly invade our Guiana territory. We wish now to enter into a new kind of argument, either for greater clearness of our right, or to reply to some observa- tions whxh have already been made on the part of the Govern- ment of Great Britain, and others that may be made in future. The explanation of our Plenipotentiary Fortique in London; the demarcations of Codazzi ; the records of those eminent men, Messrs. Yones and Barak; the diplomatic notes addressed to the British Government by our Minister of Foreign Rela- tions in November 1876, so full of abundant reasoning on behalf of our right ; the statistics of Guiana published in 1876, and the annual statistics of 1877 ; in all these explanations and official data, the Essequibo is presented as the absolute Eastern limit of our territory with British Guiana. We believe that that boundary, so expressed, diminishes the territorial right of the Republic, and we are going to explain ourselves. The records of Messrs. Yones and Barak, like the observations of Codazzi, which served as a base to our Plenipotentiary For- tique, for his explanation before the British Cabinet, and the said official data, rest on two foundations to which we do not lend the merit or the force which have been attributed to them. The opinions of geographers and historians, and the demarca- tion of the Missions were made by the Government of Spain. However valuable may be the opinions of wise men, of histo- rians and geographers, they have no authority whatever where national boundaries are treated of, which are but legitimate 3-52 Roraima. acts of the Sovereigns in use of their natural prerogatives; so that in the present question, every opinion, however autho- rised it may be considered, is ineffectual and unable to exist before the Royal decrees of the King of Spain, vi'hich, drawing the boundary lines in Guiana places them beyond the Esse- quibo up to the borders of French Guiana. No asseveration, whatever its nature may be, can oppose itself to the authority of the official documents that we have analyzed. The demarcation of the Missions has no more strength. Guided by its intentions of occupying their dominions, and of widening the civilization and culture of the Indians, Spain continued, in the course of time, to mark out Mission districts which it subordinated to the different religious orders ; but such demarcation was made within its territory and na- tional boundaries, it was an eternal economic act, purely administrative, and had no other object but order and regularity in the service of the Missions. And it is certain that the demarcation carried out in Venezuela was ordered by the Go- vernor of Cumana, in agreement wirh the *' padres" in charge of the Mission, who had to make their residence in Guiana. There is then no truth, no reason for confounding the demar- cation of Missions with the national boundaries of Spain. From that confusion of boundaries, which we oppose, it would be reasonably deduced that Spain did not possess in Venezuela any other territory than that marked out by its Missions ; an assertion very far from the truth, and which fails in every legal and rational foundation. Such an assertion leads us evidently to the maintenance of the theory which establishes that the material occupation of the whole of the territory of a nation is necessary in order to found exclusive domination over it, or it may be right of property. Such a theory that recognises, as a principle, only an erroneous idea about the nature of the possession which serves as a title to acquire, by the Law of Nations, cannot be sustained, cannot be accepted, without confusing and shaking the territorial domination of all nations, because none of them occupies materially all the territory which they have declared in their posseesion. That theory, inadmis- sible under all aspects, would be extremely disastrous to all the nationalities of South America. More than this — Great Britain can produce no argument favourable to her right as emanating from the explanations and data to which we have referred. Of whatsoever nature may have been the asseverations of our Minister-Plenipotentiary Fortique in London, they are null, and of no value, since our Government denied its approbation to the preliminaries of Appendix. 353 the boundary treaty initiated by him, and they cannot be the object of any reasonable pretension. As regards Codazzi, it is certain that Lord Aberdeen replied to Senor Fortique, in a diplomatic note, denying the Essequibo for the dividing line, and supporting himself on the demarcation of Codazzi, that presents the Moroco. Such an agreement has no value what- ever. The map of Codazzi is not an official map. There is no act of competent authority which declares it such ; on the contrary,, our Government has lately rejected claims from the Government of New Granada for possessions on the bank of the Orinoco, founded on his demarcation. Great Britain can- not constitute an exception. The records and official data to which reference has been made, are opinions of citizens and public fenctionaries which in nowise compromise, or diminish, the rights of the Republic. It is certainly strange that our Government, being in possession of the documents that we have analyzed — the Instruction of the Intendente of Venezuela, and the Exploration of the Delta — it being allowed that Messrs. Barak and Fortique refer to them, they should have been presented to demonstrate our boundaries by the Essequibo, when they prove most abundantly that they extended beyond that river. There not existing then any act of our National Sovereignty which defines our bound- aries with Great Britain in detriment of what we are sustaining, the rights of the Republic continue to have unalterable force. We have demonstrated that since 1810, we find ourselves in legal possession of the territory which constituted the ancient Captaincy-General of Venezuela with its legitimate boundaries, and it was only in 18 14 that Great Britain obtained possession of some Dutch colonies which the Sovereign of the Nether- lands transmitted. Well, what were the boundaries of that transmission ? What the boundary lines traced by Holland in the ceded territory ? None, because Holland herself was without them. Her possession was only in fact. She only held in Guiana what Spain, the discoverer and first occupier, had seen fit to permit her. And for that reason, with the good faith which ought to distinguish nations in their treaties, in the Third Article in which she ceded to Great Bjitain some of her colonies in Guiana, she does not mark out any kind of boundaries whatever. It is to be noticed that that treaty was an agreement between Holland and Great Britain, without the intervention of Spain ; that it establishes bonds and obligations between the contracting parties, but in no way can it bind Spain, that no longer legally possessed that territory, nor her legitimate successors, in all that may prejudice them. A A 354 Boraima. We have founded our right to the territory which consti- tuted the ancient Captaincy-General of Venezuela on the " uti possidetis" of i8io. We are going to make clear that right beyond all controversy. Nobody has ever put in doubt, not only in Venezuela, but in all the sections of South America, that by virtue of the political transformation that gave rise to our nevi^ nationalities, these were substituted respectively for the territorial Seignory of Spain in all her former dominions. Brazil herself, in spite of the diversity of her institutions, has recognized that principle, and could not proceed dift'erently without grave inconsequence, because, in short, what other right did the new empire represent but the one proceeding from the old kingdom of Portugal ? If she has maintained con- troversies about boundaries with adjacent nations, it has not been in denial of the principle cited, but rather confirming it, for having believed herself helped to rights which she could enforce before Spain herself by virtue of old treaties. Our succession to the seignorial rights of Spain in all the territory of the ancient Captaincy-General of Venezuela was constant prescription, and an infallible arrangement of all our consti- tuent bodies-politic, even in the midst of our great struggle for independence. The Liberator, in incorporating the Province of Guiana in 1817 with the territory conquered by the Republican arms, traced its boundaries after the tenor of the Royal Decrees of Spain which he expressly mentions. The first Congress assembled in Angostura, which sanctioned the Fundamental Law of Colombia, established in its Second Article : " Its ter- ritory shall be that embraced in the old Captaincy-General of Venezuela and the Vice-royalty of the new kingdom of Gra- nada." The " Constituyente" of Ciicuta in 1821, ratifies the former Fundamental Law by that of July 12th, whose Fifth Article reads : " The territory of the Republic of Colombia will be comprehended within the limits of the old Captaincy- General of Venezuela and the Vice-royalty and Captaincy- General of the new kingdom of Granada, but the assignment of its exact boundaries will be reserved for a more opportune occasion." The same " Constituyente" sanctioned, at last, the Con- stitution of the New Colombian nationality, and ratified the former prescriptions in its Articles 6th and 7th. — 7th. " The towns of the said extension still under the Spanish yoke, at whatever time they may free themselves, will form part of the Republic with rights and representation equal to all the others that compose it." Ajjpendix. 355 6th. — " The territory of Colombia is the same that com- prised the old Viceroyalty of New Granada and the Captaincy- General of Venezuela." As is seen from Article 7, the right sanctioned by the " Constituyente" of Colombia referred not only to the towns that had already gained their independence and liberty, but also to all those that remained under the rule of the Spanish Government. It was not only to the territory of which the founders of our nationality were already in pos- session, but also to all that which they believed themselves to have the right to possess. Venezuela, which separated from the Colombian Union, and constituted her nationality independently, in 1830, sanctioned the same right in her fundamental agreement. Article 5th. " The territory of Venezuela comprehends that which, before the political transformation of i8io, was denominated the Captaincy-General of Venezuela." And this canon has been essentially reproduced in all the Constitutions that afterwards have been given to the Republic. In that of 1857, 1858 and 1864. " Article 3rd. The territory of Venezuela comprises all that before the political transformation of 18 10, was deno- minated the Captaincy, &c., &c." Such is the canon which has reproduced itself in all our fundamental institutions since the birth of our nationality, in the glorious splendours of Colombia ; the same which is found sanctioned in all the Constitutions of our sister Republics. Its appearance as constant as universal has elevated it to a dogma of the Public International Law of South America. It could not happen in any other way, because the existence of such a precept is not a creation of that public right, but a na- tural and legitimate consequence of the political transformation which the different sections that constitute the dominion of Spain have experienced. In truth, political forms are vari- able, are purely accidental, in conformity with the times ; at the wish of the radical sovereignty of the people ; yet those same people, in society congregated, have by the I aw of Nations the eminent domination of the territory which they occupy with the demarcations which they have assigned to them for their special use. Such is, in short, the radical foundation of the " uti possi- detis" of 1810. The existence of that right, as far as we are concerned, is solemnly sanctioned by the public treaty with Spain upon recognition of our Independence. " Article I. In consequence of this renouncement and cession. His Christian Majesty recognizes as a free Sovereign and Independent Nation, the Republic of Venezuela, com- A A 2 356 Bo r aim a. posed of the provinces and territories expressed in its Consti- tution, and other later laws, viz. : Margarita, Guiana, Cumara, Barcelona, Caracas." Separation being made of the renouncement and transfer of rights on the part of Spain, which are but diplomatic formulae that do not embody any modification of the treaty, the truths which in it appear as a relief, are, the recognition of our In- dependence, the legitimate succession of our right in the right of Spain, and that the territory of the old Captaincy-General of Venezuela came to constitute that of the Republic of the same name, traced out in its Constitution and in its laws. Such understanding Spain has lately confirmed by an act of her own, extremely solemn. A controversy being raised by the Netherlands about the ownership of the island of Aves, the Court of Spain was designated as arbitrator by the con- tending parties, and in 1865 declared that the said island belonged to Venezuela in right and possession, basing its deci- sion especially on the fact that all the islands of the Caribbean sea, amono; which is found the aforesaid — were discovered by Spain, and on Venezuela being established with the terri- tory of the old Captaincy-General of Caracas, she had suc- ceeded to Spain ill all her territorial rights. There exists a public act emanating from our Government which we judge worthy of being commemorated in this writ- ing, because it strikes the heart of the question which we are sustaining. About the middle of 1822, Seuor J. Rafael Ravenga was accredited as Plenipotentary to His Britannic Majesty, and in the instructions sent by the Secretary of Foreign Relations is found the following paragraph : — " May I be permitted, however, to call your attention particularly to Article 2nd of the projected treaty about boundaries. Agree as exactly as may be possible about fixing the dividing line of both territories, according to the last treaties with Spain and Holland. The colonists of Demerara and Berbice have usurped a great portion of land, which according to them belongs to us, from the side of the river Essequibo. It is absolutely necessary that said colonists either put themselves under the protection and obedience of our laws, or that they retire to their former possessions. In short, the necessary time will be given them, as is set forth in the pro- ject."* The conscientiousness of the Government of Colombia — which was ours then — -expressed in the preceding instructions, * " Historical Ricord upon tlie Boundaries bet\vfc-n the Republic ot Colombia and the Empire of Brazil." By jose M. Quijano Otero. Appendix. 2>b7 has two important phases ; the usurpation of our territory on the Essequibo by Engh'sh colonists, such as exists now, and the possession of the ut'i possidetis ot 18 lO, which is no- thing else than the guaranteeing of our rights in the treaties celebrated between Holland and Spain, and to which the Colombian minutes refer. Again, in order to carry to the highest evidence the demon- stration of our right in the present question we will say that Great Britian has virtually recognized the ut'i possidetis of 1 8 10, in public Convention in the Treaty of 1783, in which it recognized the independence of the United States of the North. Let us prove it. The Articles ist and 2nd of that Treaty are the following : " Article ist. — 'His Britannic Majesty recognizes as free, sov- ereign, and independent the States of New Hampshire, Massa- chusetts, Rhode Island, &c., agreeing to recognize them as such, and renouncing for himself, his heirs, and successors all claim against the rights of their government and territory. " Article 2nd. — In order to avoid all discussions and differ- ences that may arise in future about the question of the boundaries of the said United States, it is declared and agreed that those shall be the following, namely, from the North- west angle of Nova Scotia, &c." Well then ; what difference exists between those articles and those of our treaty with Spain upon the identical object of recognizing our independence, which we have reproduced ? Essentially none. In one, as much as in the other, the national sovereignty of a people is recognized that proclaims its independence and effects it. In the one, as much as in the other, the right which it has as a sovereign nation to all the territory which they occupied as colonies is recognized. And what else is the uti possidetis of 1810? On what principle of the Law of Nations, on what practice of civilized nations will Great Britain be able to found the difterence which she claims, between the national sovereignty of the United States and the national sovereignty of the people of Venezuela ? No difference exists which can be founded on reason, and if any could be adduced it would undoubtedly be in our favour, because no chain of former subordination linked us to the government of Great Britain. ^*.- > ..'%, From the mass of reasoning which we have brought forward, we can deduce the following conclusions. 1st. — Spain, as a sovereign nation, traced the boundaries which belonged to her in Guiana. 2nd. — On establishing herself, the Republic ot Venezuela succeeded Spain in the domination and ownership 858 Boraima. of that territory, under its legitimate boundaries, either by virtue of the uti possidetis of 1 8 lO — recognized by all the nationalities of South America — or as a national pre- rogative of its national sovereignty. 3rd, — Great Britain has no ri^ht to annul the legitimate exercise of two national sovereignties. 4th. — As a European Power, possessor of territory on our continent, she is incorporated in the great family of nationalities of South America, and has no right to violate a principle recognized and sanctioned by all other nationalities, as that of the uti possidetis of 18 lO. From these affirmations that we have deduced from authentic official documents, and from indisputable principles of the Law of Nations, we may conclude definitely that the question of our boundaries with Great Britain does not present, in its solution, such grave difficulties as we supposed. That it should not be placed in the region of controversies but in the district of ac- complished facts, allowing that Spain of whom we are the legitimate successors, traced its boundaries. That by the priority of our right, and the nature and origin of the titles that confirm it, we are rather in the position to grant conces- sions than under the necessity of accepting conditions which it may be wished to impose upon us. Above all, we wish to inspire the profound conviction, as a result of this writing, which is extremely important to the Republic, viz., the neces- sity of a speedy solution of this controversy, that its delay prejudices immensely its gravest and most transcendental interests in various respects. Thus, it betters the conditions of Great Britain ; time, our silence and indifference give margin that they may effect invasions, which are afterwards alleged as accomplished facts, as bases of acquired rights, which is the formula hitherto adopted. Lord Aberdeen well judged it so, when in a diplomatic note he said to our Pleni- potentiary Fortique, in London, that he did not understand the interest of Venezuela in the urgency of the question of bound- aries, and that he should be satisfied that things should remain as before. Our Government has officially addressed that of Great Britain proposing a speedy solution of the controversy. We understand that no satisfactory answer has been given, and it is probable that it will not be given, because, thus, it suits the interests of Great Britain. We think that it would be con- venient to reiterate that effort in explicit and peremptory terms, by proposing the arbitration of a third Power, in case of negation to a direct convention. We have all the data Appendix. 359 sufficient to accept, without any kind of fear, an absolute deci- sion ; and as far as principles are concerned, all of them are also in favour of our right. Lifting the question to its highest, it will be understood easily that these interests are not purely Venezuelan. The position of the Orinoco in the hands of a friendly power, that fraternizes in institutions, is a question eminently American and of the highest transcendency. The day in which this is not so, the day in which a European Power of political insti- tutions adverse to ours dominates on the Orinoco, or makes its influence felt as a possessor on its banks, and in any other respect with the water communication of that river, with the Amazon, or the numerous navigable affluents of either, then not only the political and commercial interests of Venezuela would be in a great measure compromised, but also those of New Granada, Ecuador, Peru, and Bolivia, and even those of Brazil herself. Under these circumstances, the navigation of the Orinoco may become a grave international question of South America. (Here, follow a few paragraphs relating to the ruptured intercourse between Colombia and Venezuela, which 1 omit.) In continuation : — We offered to discuss the demarcation pro- posed by the British Government. We are going to comply with that promise as a summary of our former observations. At once we maintain that that demarcation is inadmissible, because it compromises and prejudices in the highest degree the interests of the Republic, in the present and in the future. In short, every dividing line between us and British Guiana that is not in the Essequibo, ruins the territory of the Republic. In the first place it is extremely difficult to fix that dividing line, making it correspond with mountain chains and rivers of the second class, geographically unknown ; to trace merid- ians in unexplored and perhaps unexplorable lands without exposing our territory to new invasions and dangerous con- troversies, and of uncertain success, which have always to be sustained with powerful nations accustomed to impose their will by using force. The Essequibo being free and only under British domination, our territory may be invaded and dominated with impunity. It being ' allowed that that river communicates by means of the channels of the Orinoco, which are difficult to be watched and guarded, so also it com- municates with our territory of the Amazon by its upper part. These ways of communication would be free, rapid, and without power of being restricted, as long as the Essequibo 360 Roratma. remains under the exclusive domination of Great Britain. The demarcation proposed by the British Minister is the following : — " A line that should go from the mouth of the Moroco to the point at which the river Barama unites with the Guaima ; thence by the Barama up the stream as far as the Aunama, which would be ascended up to the place where this stream approaches nearest to the Acarabici, and following this river to its confluence with the Cuyuni ; then continuing by this last up stream till it arrives at the high lands in contact with the Roraima range, in which are divided the waters that flow into the Essequibo from those which run into the Rio Blanco." This line has inconveniences and most prejudicial disadvant- ages for the Republic. As is seen, it begins at the mouth of the Moroco, it runs by insignificant rivers, almost geographically unknown, and mountain-chains of the same kind, till it arrives at the waters of the Cuyuni ; it follows then the course of this river up to the Roraima range.* The explanation of that line is the following ; as a point of departure and continuation it takes the secondary mountain ranges and rivers of our continent, subject to controversies and invasions, till it arrives at the Cuyuni, an affluent of the Essequibo, which belongs to us integrally : it runs all its course, attaching great part of the territory of our State Guiana, up to the Roraima range, where rises our Caroni. That is to say, England marks herself boundaries within our territory, imprisoning us within a line of circumvallation from the ocean up to the sources of one of our most important interior rivers. And with what risjht can Great Britain claim from us the abrogation of incontro- vertible principles of the universal Law of Nations ? Even laying aside our original titles from Spain, which prove, evidently, that our interior boundaries passed beyond the Essequibo up to the borders of French Guiana, even layino- aside, we say, those titles which we have analyzed over- abundantly, England has no right to take possession of the Essequibo and to declare it her exclusive property. It is an invariable law and constant practice of the Law of Nations that in order to divide nations, possessors of common territories, the rivers and mountain ranges of consideration and * It seems to have slipped the notice both of the proposers and those to whom it was proposed, that by no possible means could a line following the Ciivunl river reach the Roraima range or anywhere near it — J.W.B.W. Appendix. 361 importance are preferred as boundaries. In these conditions is found the Essequi'bo, which is a natural curved boundary between us and British Guiana. And what right has Great Britain not only to declare that the Essequibo is her exclusive property, but also to pass beyond its banks and penetrate into our territory and leave her boundaries ? It is also an invari- able law of the Law of Nations that when a broad river divides the territories of two conterminous nations, each one of them has a right to the domination of the half of that river in all the bank which it occupies. And with what right can Great Britain claim from us the abrogation of that incontrovertible prescription of the Universal Law of Nations ? Besides the line which we have traced and which was proposed by Great Britain, there was also the dishonourable condition that Vene- zuela should engage herself not to alienate that territory to any other foreign power. The Government of Great Britain well understood the importance of that territory under diverse phases, and that it would not suit for it to pass into the power of a nation that might be able to repel force by force with equal ad- vantages and conditions. Guided by the design of putting an end to this question of boundaries, our Government Council, in 1844, submitted for disscussion a proposal for a dividing line that should be offered to Great Britain. It humoured suffi- ciently the exactions of Great Britain, but that dividing line was not so onerous as that which had been proposed by that nation. It began at the mouth of Moroco, following the course of that river up to its source. Thence it drew a meridian, which crossing the Cuyuni went up to the Paca- raima range, which divides the waters of the Essequibo from those of the Rio Blanco. If not so prejudicial as that pro- posed by Great Britain, it comprises, in a great measure, the gravest transcendental interests of the Republic in the present as much as in the future. All that may be cut off from the Essequibo, as our eastern boundary with British Guiana, is to ruin the territory of the Republic ; it is to cause that British subjects, that the foreigner may travel and navigate through our territory without our being able to impede it. Having the exclusive domination of the Essequibo, they have the free navigation of that river and of its most important affluents, which penetrate extensively into our territory, and among others the Cuyuni and the Mazaruni. Besides this, the nation has already given forth its judgment, has already expressed its will respecting the territorial rights 362 Roraima. by that flank in the most solemn manner, and it is not possible to contradict itself without great indignity, besides grave pre- judices, under different respects and considerations. The 1st Article of our Boundary Treaty with Brazil, in its 3rd division, speaks thus: — "The line will continue through the most elevated points of the Pacaraima range, so that the waters which go to the Rio Blanco may remain belonging to Brazil, and those which run to the Essequibo, Cuyuni, and Caroni to Venezuela, up to where the territories of the two States reach on their eastern part." From this boundary convention with Brazil, the only nation that could dispute with us original titles in Guiana, is deduced that the Republic stretches its territorial dominion on the south as far as the Pacaraima range, a continuation of the Parima and which divides the waters of the Rio Blanco from those which run to the Essequibo ; that it has declared and maintained its dominion over that territory, and over the Essequibo and its affluents in those regions, and, what is more important, that it is bounded on the east by Brazil. Comparing this demarca- tion with Brazil with the line proposed by the English Govern- ment, it results that the latter is going to terminate in the Roraima range, which is in the interior of our State Guiana, and which is a ramification of that of Pacaraima. In short this line with our Brazilian division comes to form an immense angle in our Guiana territory. If it is cut off then from the Essequibo the following absurdities result, in which grave pre- judice and national indignity dispute the palm. 1st. — That we lose not only the territory that belongs to us, from the Essequibo to the boundaries of French Guiana, but that comprehended to the east between that river and the line proposed by Great Britain, which amounts to a multitude of square leagues. 2nd. — This nation taking possession of the Essequibo, she bounds herself in fact and divides us from Brazil, by which we are bounded on the east according to the public treaty with that nation. There is then in the usurpation of the Essequibo, a usurpa- tion of territory and a usurpation of national sovereignty. We terminate these articles, recommending as we have already done in several places, the importance of putting, as soon as possible, an end to the question of our boundaries with Great Britain, and the necessity and justice of maintaining the Essequibo as the limit of our concessions, as the natural boundary of our territory, as much by the original authentic Appendix. 363 titles which we have from Spain as by the principles of the Law of Nations, which we have discussed and analyzed in these writings. Francisco J. Marmol. Caracas, February i8th, 1878. (Here follow copies of the original documents from which these arguments have been deduced, but it is unnecessary to re-produce them, as their substance is contained in the above writings. — J.W.B.W.) THE END. Lonaon: Printed by, A. Schulze, 13 Poland Street. Bancjoft Library E R A I M A iRITISH GUIANA J,WiBor>j)Air- Whhtham: ~^° Loudon HuTBt Afilackett 13, Great Marlborough Street. MESSRS. HURST MD BLACKETT'S LIST OF NEW WORKS. KOYAL WINDSOR. By W. Hepworth Dixon. Second Edition. Volumes I. and II. Demy 8vo. 30s. To be completed in 2 more volumes. CONTENTS OF VOLS. I. AND II.— Castlo Hill, Norman Keep, First King's House, Lion Heart, Kingless Windsor, Windsor Won, (.ieoffrey Plautagenet, Windsor Lost, The Fallen Deputy, The Queen Mother, Maud de Braose, The Barons' War, Second King's House, Edward of Carnarvon, Perot de Qaveston, Isabel de France, Edward of Windsor, Creoy, Patron Saints, St. George, Society of St. George, Lady Salisbury, David King of Scots, Third King's House, Ballad Windsor, "The Fair Countess, Eichard of Bordeaux, Court Parties, Royal Favour- ites, Rehearsing for Windsor, In the Great Hall, Simon de Burley, Radcote Bridge, A Feast of Death, Geoffrey Chaucer, At Wiuche.ster Tower, St. George's Chapel, The Little Queen, At Windsor, Duchess Philippote, The Windsor Plot, Bolingbroke, Court of Chivalry, Wager of Battle, Deserted Little Queen, Oaptiva Little Queen, A New Year's Plot, Night of the Kings, Exit Little Queen, Dona Juana, Constance of York, The Norman Tower, The Legal Heir, Prince Hal, The Devil's Tower, In Captivity Captive, Attempt at Rescue, Agincourt, Kaisei' Sigismund, The Witch Queen, Sweet Kate, The Maid of Honour, Lady Jane, Henry of Windsor, Richard of York, Two Duchesses, York and Lancaster, Union of the Kose.^. " ' Royal Windsor ' follows in the same lines as ' Her Majesty's Tower,' and aims at weaving a series of popular sketches of striking events which centre round Windsor Castle. Mr. Dixon makes everything vivid and picturesque. Those who liked ' Her Majesty's Tower ' will And these volumes equally pleasant reading." — Athenxum. "A truly fine and interesting book. It is a valuable contribution to English history; worthy of Mr. Dixon's fame, worthy of its grand subject." — Mnrninrj Post. "Mr. Dixon has supplied us with a highly entertaining book. 'Royal Windsor ' is eminently a popular work, bristling with anecdotes and amusing sketches of historical characters. It is carefully written, and is exceedingly pleasant reading. The story is brightly told ; not a dull page can be found. Mr. l3ixon is to be congra- tulated on having put so much information into so agreeable a shape." — Examimr. " These volumes will quickly Und favour with the widest and most inclusive circle of readers. From the first days of Norman Windsor to the Plantagenet period Mr. Dixon tells the story of this famous castlo in his own picturesque, bright, and vigor- ous way." — Dailu Tckf/raph. "Mr. Hepworth Dixon has found a congenial subject in 'Royal Windsor.' His exploration of the Tower of London for a similar purpose, and the curious and care- ful researches which his study of that fatal fortress occasioned, had furnished him with an abundance and variety of materials for his present monograph on au ancient keep and palace of the English Monarchy. Under the sanction of the Queen, he has enjoyed exceptional opportunities of most searching and complete investign- tion of the Royal House and every other part of Windsor Castle, in and out, above ground and below ground." — Dciilii lYcws. " 'Royal Windsor' is a worthy companion to 'Her Majesty's Tower.' It brings before the reader with no less lldelity the splcuilid pagoauts of history, and it gives an animated series of tableaux, the characters In which are so life-like that they seem again to pass in very flesh and blood before our eyes." — Sunday Times. " In ' Royal Windsor ' Mr. Dixon has found a subject most rich in opportunities for the gorgeous word-painting and the dramatic power of which he has unques- tionable command. The Royal dwelling in its various phases— Saxon hunting- lodge, Norman keep, and Palace-Castle, altered, enriched, and added to by king after king — supplies in vulgar phrase the peg on which to hang the storied chronicle of the kings and captives who all these years have tenanted its walla. The work is pre-eminently one for the general public."— (rro/)/(ic. 13, Qebat Marlborodgh Street. MESSRS. HURST AND BLACKETrS LIST OF NEW WORKS. EOYAL WINDSOR. By W. Hepworth Dixon. Second Edition. Volumes I. and II. Demy 8vo. 30s. To bo completed in 2 more volumes. CONTENTS OF VOLS. I. AND II.— Castle mil, Norman Keep, Firf3t King's HouBe, Lion Heart. Kiugless Windsor, Windsor Won, Geoffrey Plantagenet, Windsor Lost, The Fallen Deputy, The Queen Mother, Maud de Braose, The Barons' War, Second King's House, Edward of Carnarvon, Perot de Gaveston, Isabel de France, Edward of Windsor, Crecy, Patron Saints, St. George, Society of St. George, Lady Salisbury, David King of Scots, Third King's House, Ballad Windsor, The Fair Countess, Richard of Bordeaux, Court Parties, Koyal Favour- ites, Eehoarsing for Windsor, In the Great Hall, Simon de Burley, Eadcote Bridge, A Feast of Death, Geoffrey C;haucer, At Winchester Tower, St. George's Chapel, The Little Queen, At Windsor, Duchess Philippote, The Windsor Plot, Bolingbroke, Court of Chivalry, W.ager of Battle, Deserted Little Queen, Captive Little Queen, A New Year's Plot, Night of the Kings, Exit Little Queen, Dona Juana, Constance of York, The Norman Tower, The Legal Heir, Prince Hal, The Devil's Tower, In Captivity Captive, Attempt at Rescue, Agincourt, Kaisei' Sigismund, The Witch Queen, Sweet Kate, The Maid of Honour, Lady Jane, Henry of Windsor, Richard of York, Two Duchesses, York and Lancaster, Union of the Roses. " ' Royal Windsor ' follows in the same lines as ' Her Majesty's Tower,' and aims at weaving a series of popular sketches of striking events which centre round Windsor Castle. Mr. Dixon makes everything vivid and picturesque. Those who liked ' Her Majesty's Tower ' will find these volumes equally pleasant reading." — Atheiixum. "A truly fine and interesting boolc It is a valuable contribution to English history; worthy of Mr. Dixon's fame, worthy of its grand subject." — Moviiinfj Post. "Mr. Dixon has supplied us with a highly entertaining book. 'Royal Windsor ' is eminently a popular work, bristling with anecdotes and amusing sketches of historical characters. It ia carefully written, and is exceedingly pleasant reading. The story is brightly told ; not a dull page can be found. Mr. Dixon is to be congra- tulated on having put so much information into so agreeable a shape.'' — Examiner. " These volumes will quickly Und favour with the widest and most inclusive circle of readers. From the first days of Norman Windsor to the Plantagenet period Mr. Dixon tells the story of this famous castle in his own picturesque, bright, and vigor- ous way." — Daily Tdeijraph. " Mr. Hepworth Dixon has found a congenial subject in ' Royal Windsor.' His exploration of the Tower of London for a similar purpose, and the curious and care- ful researches which his study of that fatal fortress occasioned, had furnished him with an abundance and variety of materials for his present monograph on an ancient keep and palace of the English Monarchy. Under the sanction of the Queen, ho has enjoyed exceptional opportunities of most searching and complete investiga- tion of the Royal House and every other part of Windsor Castle, in and out, above ground and below ground." — Daily News. " ' Royal Windsor ' is a worthy companion to ' Her Majesty's Tower.' It brings before the reader with no loss fidelity the splendid pageants of history, and it gives an animated series of tableaux, the characters in which are so life-like that they seem again to pass in very flesh and blood before our eyes." — Sunday Times. " In ' Royal Windsor ' Mr. Dixon has found a subject most rich in opportunities for the gorgeous word-painting and the dramatic power of which he has unques- tionable command. The Royal dwelling in its various phases— Saxon hunting- lodge, Norman keep, and Palace-Castle, altered, cni-iched, and added to by king after king — supplies in vulgar phrase the peg on which to hang the storied chronicle of the kings and captives who all these years have tenanted its walls. The work is pre-eminently one for the general public. " — Graphic. 13, Great Marlborodob Street. MESSRS. HURST AND BLACKETT'S NEW y^ORKS—Cojitinued. A LEGACY : Being the Life and Remains of John Martin, Schoolmaster and Poet. Written and Edited by the Author of " John Halifax." 2 vols, crown 8vo. With Portrait. 21s. " Tliis is, in many respects, a remarkable book. It reeonls the life, work, aspira- tions, and death of a schoolmaster and poet, of lowly birth but high-strung and ambitious soul. His writings brim with vivid thought, keen analysis of feel- ing, touches of poetic sentiment, and trenchant criticism of men and books, ex- presseil in scholarly language." — Guardian. "Mrs. t'raik has related a beautiful and pathetic story — a story of faith and courage and untiring energy on the part of a young and gifted man, who might under other circumstances have won a place in literature. The story is one worth reading."— P((/? Mall Gazette. " In these volumes a well-known novelist presents us with a history so touching, so marvellous, and so simple, as no invention could produce. Few more pathetic or more instructive volumes have fallen in our way." — Afornimj Post. '■ We strongly recommend our readers to procure this charming book, not only because it is a gem of beautiful writing, showing the Jlnished style and graceful heart of the talented authoress, but because the subject matter in itself is of absorbing interest" — Church Reriew. A YOUNG SQUIRE OF THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY, from the Papers of Christopher Jeaffreson, of Dul- lingham House, Cambridgeshire. Edited by Joh.n Cordy Jeaffre- son, Author of "A Book about Doctors," &c. 2 vols, crown 8vo. 21s. "Two volumes of very attractive matter: — letters which illustrate agriculture, commerce, war, love, and social manners, accounts of passing public events, and details which are not to be found in the Gazettes, and which come with singular freshness from private letter.*." — .Itheinvum. " Two agreeable and important volumes. They deserve to be placed on library shelves with Pepys, Evelyn, and Keresby." — A'otes and Queries. " In the interests of histoiy a publication such as the present is of almost in- calculable value. Every historical student ought to make himself acquainted with these two vei-y delightful volumes." — Mornimj Post. HISTORY OF ENGLISH HUMOUR. By the Rev. A. G. L'EsTRANGE, Author of " The Life of the R'ev. W. Harness," &c. 2 vols, crown 8vo. 21s. " This work contains a large and varied amount of information. It is impossible to give any idea of the wealth of anecdote and epigram in its pages, and for any- thing like a proper appreciation of its value we must refer our readers to the book itsoll'."— JoA/( Bull. "This work gives evidence of a vast deal of industry and study of the subject, and is distinguished by considerable analytical power, and contains many pleasant anecdotes " — Morning Post. " A book of the highest mark and character. The literary man, the antiquarian, anil the historian will combine in pronouncing it worthy of admission into every well selected library." — Messenger. MY LIFE, FROM 1815 TO 1849. By Charles Loftus, formerly of the Royal Navy, late of the Coldstream Guards. Author of " My Youth by Sea and Land." 2 vols, crown 8vo. 21a. •' The praise which \he AtUenKiun gave to the first portion of Major Loftus's work, may be fairly awarded to the second. These reminiscences are pleasantly told. There is a cheerincss about them which couimuuicatcs itself to the reader." — A t/ienieum. "A thoroughly interesting and readable book, wliich we heartily recommend as one of the most characteristic autobiographies we ever read." — :ilandunL 13, Great Marlborough Strkkt. MESSRS. HURST AND BLACKETT'S ?J]BUCATIOm— Continued. THE THEATRE FRANCAIS IN THE REIGN OF LOUIS XV. By Alexander Baillie Cochrane, M.P. 1 vol. demy 8vo. los, CONVERSATIONS with M. Thiers, M. Guizot, and other Distinguished Persons, during the Second Empire. By the Late Nassau W. Senior. Edited by his Daughter, M. C. M. Simpson. 2 vols, demy 8vo. 30s. Among other persons whose conversations are recorded in these volumes are King Leopold; the Due de Broglie; Lord Cowley; Counts Arrivabene, Cor- celle, Daru, Flahault, Kergolay, Slontalembert; Generals Lamoricicre and Chrzanowski; Sir Henry Ellis; Messieurs Ampere, Beaumont, Blanchard, Boul'fet, Auguste Chevalier, Victor Cousin, De Witt, Duchatel, Ducpetiaux, Dumon, Dussard, Duvergier do Ilauranne, Lc'on Faucher, Frere-Orban, Grim- blot, Guizot, Lafltte, Labaume, Lamartine, Lanjuiuais, Mallac, Jfanin, Miirimue, Mignet, Jules Mohl, Moutanolli, Odillon-Barrot, Quctelet, Rctnusat, Rogier,' Kivet, Eossini, Horace Say. Thiers, Trouvii-Chauvel, Villemain, Wolowskl'; Mesdames Circourt, Cornu, Ristori, &c. " This new series of Mr Senior's 'Conversations' has been for some years past known in manuscript to his more intimate friends, and it has always been felt that no former series would prove more valuable or important. Mr. Senior had a social position which gave him admission into the best literary and political circles of Paris. He was a cultivated and sensible man, who knew how to take full advan- tage of such an opening. And above all, he had by long practice so trained his memory as to enable it to recall all the substance, and often the words, of the long conversations which ho was always holding. These conversations he wrote down with a surprising accuracy, and then handed the manuscript to his friends, that they might correct or modify his report of what they had said. This book thus contains the opinions of eminent men given in the freedom of conversation, and afterwards carefully revised. Of their vahie there cannot be a question. The book is one of permanent historical interest. There is scarcely a page without some memorable statement by some memorable man. Politics and society and literature — the three great interests that make up life — are all discussed in turn, and there is no discussion which is unproductive of weighty thought or striking fact." — AthciixuDu "The present selection of Mr. Senior's .Tournals, edited with remarkable skill and judgment by Mrs. Simiison, is extraordinarily full and interesting. Although the unreserved and original communications of Thiers are especially fascinating, the book would bo abundantly interesting if it consisted only of the reports of conversations with Guizot, Montalembert, Cousin, Lamartine, and other persons of celebrity and eminence." — ScUurday Review. " These conversations extend from the year lvS'J2 to ISflO, and will bo found to refer to some of the most interesting public events of our time — the Revolution of 1S4.S, the Crimean War, the French .Mliance, the attempt on the life of Louis Na- poleon, the Indian Mutiny, and the Italian campaign of Isi!). Besides these great public occurrences of European celebrity, we have many very curious and piquant anecdotes of a private character, and expressions of opinion on men and things by persons of eminence. All that is said in these volumes of France, England, and Russia, is as interesting now as when it was lirst utterciL" — StamUcnL " The two new volumes of the late Mr Nassau Senior's most interesting con- versations give us the ideas of some eminent foreign statesmen on the Eastern Ques- tion. They embrace the eventful years from 1.SJ2 to isiio, during which Mr. Senior piiid prolonged visits to Paris, and conversed on the most conlldeutial terms with some of the shrewdest men of the time. They sot forth the opinions of those who had the best means of informing themselves on Russian objects and English inter- ests. They abound, besides, in most interesting details as to the personal character of the Emperor Nicholas and his successor ; as to the relations of Russia and Austria; as to the social condition and resources of the two empires ; as to the con- siderations that govern their policy, and their respective capabilities as fighting 'PovfQTS."—Iilac/cicood's Magazine. 13, Geeat Maklborouqh Street. MESSRS. HURST AND BLACKETT'S NEW V^OYiKS— Continued. HISTORY OF TWO QUEENS: CATHARINE OF ARAGON and ANNE BOLEYN. By W. Hepworth Dixon. Second Edition. Vols. 1 & 2. Demy 8vo. 30s. "In two handsome volumes Mr. Dixon here gives us the first instalment of a new historical work on a most attractive subject The hook is in many respects a favourable specimen of Mr. Dixon's powers. It is the most painstaking and elaborate that he has yet written On the whole, we may say that the book is one which will sustain the reputation of its author as a writer of great power and versatility, that it gives a new aspect to many an old subject, and presents in H. very striking light some of the most recent discoveries in English history." — Atlinursum. " In these volumes the author exhibits in a signal manner his special powers and finest endowments. It is obvious that the historian has been at especial pains to justify his reputation, to strengthen his hold upon the learned, and also to extend his sway over the many who prize an attractive style and interesting narra- tive more highly than laborious research and philosophic insight." — Morning Post. " The thanks of all students of English history are due to Mr. Hepworth Dixon for his clever and original work, 'History of two Queens.' The book is a valuable contribution to English history. The author has consulted a number of original sources of information — in particular the archives at Simancas. .\lcala, and Venice. Mr. Dixon is a skilful writer. His style, singularly vivid, graphic, and dramatic— is alive with human and artistic interest. Some of the incidental descriptions reach a very high level of picturesque power."— flaiVj/ J\Vi«. VOLS. III. & IV. OF THE HISTORY OF TWO QUEENS : CATHARINE OF ARAGON and ANNE BOLEYN. By W. Hepworth Dlson. Second Edition. Demy 8vo. Price 30s. Completing the Work, ••These concluding volumes of Mr. Dixon's ' History of two Queens ' will be per- used with keen interest by thousands of readers. Whilst no less valuable to the student, they will be far more enthralling to the general reader than the earUer half of the history. Every page of what may be termed Anne Boleyn's story affords a happy illustration of the author's vivid and picturesque style. The work should be found in every library." — Post. " Mr. Dixon has pre-eminently the art of interesting his readers. He has pro- duced a narrative of considerable value, conceived in a spirit of fairness, and wriiten with power and picturesque effect.'' — Dailii ]\^eics. HISTORY OF WILLIAM PENN, Founder of Pennsylvania. By W. Hep-vtorth Dixon. A New Library EDrriON. 1 vol. demy 8vo, with Portrait. 12s. " Mr. Dixon's ' William Penn ' is, perhaps, the best of his books. He has now re- vised and issued it with the addition of much fresh matter. It is now offered in a sumptuous volume, matching with Mr. Dixon's recent books, to a new generation of readers, who will thank Mr. Dixon for his interesting and instructive memoir of one of the worthies of England." — Examiner. FREE KUSSIA. By W. Hep worth Dixon. Third Edition- 2 vols. 8vo, with Coloured Illustrations. 30s. "Mr. Dixon's book will be certain not only to interest but to please its renders and it deserves to do so. It contains a great deal that is worthy of attention, and is likely to produce a very useful effect." — Saturday RevieiD. THE SWITZERS. By W. Hepworth Dixon. Tliird Edition. 1 vol. demy 8vo. 15s. "A lively, iiiteioHling, and altogether novel book on Switzerland, It is full of valuable information on social, political, and ecclesiastical questions, and, like all Mr. Dixons books, is eminently readable." — Dailij Aiirs. 13, Grkat Maklborouoh Strkkt. MESSRS. HURST AND BLACKETT'S NEW WOUKS—Contkued. MEMOIRS OF GEORGIANA, LADY CHATTER- TON ; With some Passages from Her Diary. By E. Heneage Bering. 1 vol. demy 8vo. 15s. Among other persons mentioned in this work are Lords Lansdowno, Brougham, Macaulay, Lytton, Houghton; Messrs. Wilberforce, Wordsworth, llallam, Rogers, Moore, Sydney Smith, Landor, Lockhart, Fonblanque, Warhurton, Harness, Chantrey; Count Montalembert, Dr. Ullathorne, Dr. Newman, Joanna Baillie, Lady Gifford, Lady Cork, Mrs. Somerville, Mrs. Norton, &c. "Lady Chatterton's Diary gives a sketch of society during a well known but ever-interesting period. Mr. Dering may be congratulated on having furni.shed a graceful epilogue to the story of an interesting life." — Athemvum. "In this work we have the pleasant picture of a literary artist and an amiable lady, and some interesting anecdotes which give value to the volume." — John Bull. "In this agreeable volume Mr. Dering has succeeded in bringing before us in vivid colours the portrait of a very remarkable, talented, and excellent lady. Her Diary is full of charming reminiscences." — The Tablet. HISTORIC CHATEAUX: Blois, Fontainebleau, ViNCENNEs. By Alexander Baillie Cochrane, M.P. Ivol.Svo. 15a. " A very interesting volume." — Times. "A lively and agreeable book, full of action and colour.'' — Athenxum, "This book is bright, pleasant reading." — British Quarterly Review. " A most valuable addition to the historical works of the time. It is full of life and colour." — Mornimj Post. " A well executed book by a polished and vigorous writer." — The WorlcL THE SEA OF MOUNTAINS : An Account of Lord Dufferin's Tour through British CoLmmiA in 187(). By MoLYNEUX St. John. 2 vols, crown 8vo. With Portrait of Lord Dufferin. 2l3. " Mr. St. John has given us in these pages a record of all that was seen and done in a vei-y successful visit. liis book is instructive, and it should be interesting to the general reader." — Times. " Mr. St. John is a shrewd and lively writer. The reader will And ample variety in his book, which is well worth perusal." — Pall Mall Gazette. " These volumes are amusing, interesting, and even valuable. They give us a very clear idea of the great quarrel between British Columbia and the Dominion of Canada; and they contain a full report of Lord Dufferin's great speech at Victoria. Then there are some graphic sketches of social life and scenery, and some entertaining stories.' — Spectator. A MAN OF OTHER DAYS : Recollections of the Marquis de Beauregard. Edited, from the French, by Charlotte M. YONGE, Author of " The Heir of RodclylTe," &c. 2 vols. 21s. " The ' man of former times ' whose biography is now introduced tj our notice, will be remembered by all who have read the correspondence of Count Joseph do Maistre. A Savoyard by birth, M. Costa de Beauregard lived long enough to see the last years of the Monarchy, the Revolution, and the early promise of General Bonaparte. The opening chapters of the work introduce us to Paris society at the time when it was perhaps the most brilliant; and it is amusing to accompany our hero to JIme. Geolfrin's salon, where Marmontel, Rochefoucauld, Greuze, Diderot, Cochin, and many others, discourse literature, art, and philosophy. Sent off to Paris for the purpose of finishing his education by mixing with all the choice spirits of the day, young Costa writes home brilliant descriptions of the sights he has seen and the company to which he has been introduced. The variety of scenes described in these pleasant memoirs, the historical personages crowded on the canvas, and the account of the noble struggle of Savoy against the Krcnch Repub- lic, give to the whole work a dramatic interest which derives additional charm from the character of the Marquis himself — a character in which high principle, genuine wit, and patriotism are happily blended together." — Saturday liavieie. 13, Great Marlborough Street. MESSRS. HURST AND BLACKETT'S NEW WORKS— Continued. VOLS. T. & II. OF HER MAJESTY'S TOWER. By W. HEPWORTH DIXON. DEDICATED BY EXPRESS PERMISSION TO THE QUEEN. Sixtfi Edition. Svo. 30s. From the Timks:— "All the civilized world— English, Continental, and Ame- rican — takes an interest In the Tower of London. The Tower is the stage upon which has been enacted some of the grandest dramas and saddest tragedies in our national annals. If, in imagination, wo take our stand on those time-worn walls, and let century after century flit past us, we shall see in due succession the majority of the most famous meu and lovely women of England in the olden time. We shall see them jesting, jousting, love-making, plotting, and then anon, per- haps, commending their souls to Uod in the presence of a hideous masked figure, bearing an axe iu his hands. It is such pictures as these that Mr. Dixou, with considerable skill as an historical limner, has set before us in these volumes. Mr. Dixon dashes off the scenes of Tower history with great spirit His descriptions are given with such terseness and vigour that we should spoil them by any attempt at condensation. In conclusion, we may congratulate the author on this work. Both volumes are decidedly attractive, and throw much light on our national history." VOLS. III. & IV. OF HER MAJESTY'S TOWER. By W. HEPWORTH DIXON. DEDICATED BY EXPRESS PERMISSION TO THE QUEEN. Completing the Work. Third Edition. Demy 8vo. 303. " These volumes are two galleries of richly painted portraits of the noblest men and mos>t brilliant women, besides others, commemorated by English history. The grand old Royal Keep, palace and prison by turns, is revivified in these volumes, which close the narrative, extending from the era of Sir John Eliot, who saw Raleigh die in Palace Yard, to that of Thistlewood, the last prisoner im- mured in the Tower. Few works are given to us, iu these days, so abundant in originality and research as Mr. Dixon's." — Standard. RECOLLECTIONS of COLONEL DE GONNE- VILLE. Edited from the French by Charlotte M. Yonge, Author of the "Heir of Redclyfl'e," &c. 2 vols, crown 8vo. 21s. " This very interesting memoir brings us within the presence of Xapoleon I., and some of the chiefs who upheld the fortunes of the First Empire, and its anecdotes about that extraordinary man are evidently genuine and very charac- teristic. It introduces us to the inner life and real state of the Grand Army, and lays bare the causes of its strength and weakness. The work discloses a variety of details of interest connected with Napoleon's escape from Elba, the Hundred Days, the Bourbon Restoration, and the Revolution of July, 18;)0. We have dwelt at length on this instructive record of the experiences of a memorable age, and can commend it cordially to our readers." — The Times. MY YOUTH, BY SEA AND LAND, from 1809 to 181 G. By CiiAKLics L()FrL-.s, formerly of the Royal Navy, late of the Coldstream (iiiarcls. 2 vols, crowu Svo. 21s. " It was a happy thought that impelled Major Loftus to give us these reminis- cences of 'the old war,' which still retains so strong a hold on our sympathies. Every word from an intelligent actor in these stirring scenes is now valuubla Major Loftus i)layed the part allottinl to him with honour and ability, and ho relates the story of his sea life with s])irit and vigour. Some of hie sea stories are as laughable as anything in ' Peter Simple,' while many of his adventures on shore remind us of Charles I.ever in his freshest days. During his sea life Major l.oflus became acquiiintcd with many distinguished persons. Besides the Duke of Wollingloii, the Prince Regent, and William IV., ho was brought into personal relation with the allied Sovereigns, tho Due D'AngoulOme, Lord William Ucntinck, and Sir Hudson Lowe. A more genial, pleasant, wholesome book we have not often read." — Standard. 6 13, Great Marlborough Street. MESSRS. HURST AND BLACKETT'S NEW WOUK^—ContinuecL CELEBRITIES I HAVE KNOWN. By Lord William Pitt Lexxox. Second Series. 2 volumos demy 8vo. 30s. Amons other persons mentioued in the Second Series of this worlt are — The Princess Charlotte and Prince Leopold ; the Dukes of Wellington and Beau- fort; the Earls of Durham and Carlisle ; Lords Byron, Clyde, Adolphus Fitz- clarence, and Cockburn; Sirs Walter Scott, Ci. Wombwell, A. Barnard, John Elley, Sidney, Harry, and C.F.Smith; Count D'Orsay; Dr. Uodd; Messrs. Thomas Moore, Theodore Hook, Lci^h Hunt, Jerdan, .James, Horace, and Albert Smith. Beazlej', Tattorsall, Hudson, Ude, George Colman, The Kembles, G. F. Cooke, Charles Young, Edmund and Charles Kean, Yates, Harley ; Miss Foote; Mrs. Nisbet; Mesdames Catalaui,Gra8sini, Rachel, &c. " This new series of Lord William Lennox's reminiscences is fully as entertain- ing as the preceding one. Lord William makes good use of an excellent memory, and he writes easily and pleasantly." — Pall Mall Gazette. "One of the best books of the season. Pleasant anecdotes, exciting episodes, smart sayings, witticisms, and repartees are to be found on every page." — Court Journal. COACHING ; With Anecdotes of the Road. By Lord Willlvm Pitt Lennox, Author of " Celebrities I have Known," &c. Dedicated to His Grace the DuivE of Beau- fort, K.G., President, and the Members of the Coaching Club. 1 vol. demy 8vo. 15s. " Lord William's book is genial, discursive, and gossipy. We are indebted to tho author's personal recollections for some lively stories, and pleasant sketches of some of tho more famous dragsmen. Nor does Lord William by any means limit himself to the English roads, and English coaches. Bianconi's Irish cars, the con- tinental diligences, with anecdotes of His Grace of Wellington, when Lord William was acting as his aide-de-camp during the occupation of Paris, with many other matters more or less germane to his subject, are all brought in more or less naturally. Altogether his volume, with the variety of its contents, will be found pleasant reading." — Pall Mall Gazette. LIFE OF MOSCHELES ; with Selections from HIS DIARIES AND CORRESPONDENCE. By His Wife, 2 vols, large post 8vo, with Portrait. 2-is. "This life of Moscheles will be a valuable book of reference for the musical his- torian, for the contents extend over a period of threescore years, commencing with 1794, and ending at 1870. We need scarcely state that all the portions of Mosche- les' diary which refer to his intercourse with Beethoven, Hummel, Weber, Czerny, Spontini, Rossini, Auber, Haldvy, Schumann, Cherubiui, Spohr, Mendelssohn, V. David, Chopin, J B. Cramer. Clementi, John Fiekl, Habeneck, Hauptmann, Kalk- brenner, Kiesewotter, 0. Klingemann, Lablache, Dragonetti, Soutag, Persian!, Malibran, Paganini, Rachel, Ronzi de Begnis, De Beriot, Ernst, Donzelli, Cinti- Damoreau, Chelard, Bochsa, Laporte, Charles Kemble, Paton (Mrs. Wood), Schruder-Devrient, Mrs. Siddons, Sir H. Bishop, Sir G. Smart, Staudigl, Thalberg, Berlioz, Velluti, C. Young, Balfe, Braham, and many other artists of note in their time, will recall a flood of recollections. It was a delicate task for Madame Mos- cheles to select from the diaries in reference to living persons, but her extracts have been judiciously made. Moscheles writes fairly of what is called the ' Music of the Future ' and its disciples, and his judgments on Herr Wagner, Dr. Liszt, Ruben- stein, Dr. von Billow, Litolff, &c., whether as composers or executants, are in a liberal spirit He recognizes cheerfully the talents of onr native artists, .Sir Stern- dale Bennett, Mr. Macfarren, Madame Arabella Goddard, Mr. John Bamett, Mr. UuUah, Mrs. Shaw, Mr. A. Sullivan, &c. The celebrities with whom Moscheles came in contact, include Sir Walter Scott, Sir Robert Peel, the late Duke of Cam- bridge, the Bunsens, Louis Philippe, Napoleon the Third, Humboldt, Henry Heine, Thomas More, Count Nesselrode, the Duchess of Orleans, Prof. Wolf, &c. In- deed, the two volumes are full of amusing anecdotes." — Atltenxuin. 13, 3bkat Marlborouqh Street. MESSRS. HURST AND BLACKETT'S NEW "WORKS— Continued. WORDS OF HOPE AND COMFORT TO THOSE IN SORROW. Dedicated by Permission to The Queen. Fourth Edition. 1 vol. small 4to, 5s. bound. 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" This touching and most comforting work is dedicated to The Quekn, who took a gracious interest in its llrst appearance, when printed for private circulation, and found comfort in its pages, and has now commanded its publication, that the world in general may protlt by it. A more practical and heart-stirriug appeal to the afflicted we have never examined." — Standard. "These letters are exceptionally graceful and touching, and maybe read with profit. " — Grapli ic. OUR BISHOPS AND DEANS. By the Rev. F. Arnold, B.A., late of Christ Church, Oxford. 2 vols. 8vo. 30s. "This work is good in conception and cleverly executed, and as thoroughly honest and earnest as it is interesting and able. The style is original, the thought vigorous, the information wide, and the portrait-painting artistic." — John Bull. LIFE OF THE RT. HON. SPENCER PERCEVAL ; Includmg His Correspondence. By His Grandson, Spencer Wal- POLE. 2 vols. 8vo, with Portrait. 30s. " Mr. Walpole's work reflects credit not only on his industry in compiling an important biography from authentic material, but also on his eloquence, power of interpreting political change, and general literary address. The biography will take rank in our literature, both as a faithful reflection of the statesman and his period, as also for its philosophic, logical, and dramatic completeness." — Morning Post. MY YEAR IN AN INDIAN FORT. By Mrs. Guthrie. 2 vols, crown 8vo. With Illustrations. 21s. "Written with intelligence and ability." — Pall Mall Gazette. "A pleasantly written boolc Mrs. Guthrie appears to have enjoyed her visit to the Fort of Belgaum, in the Doccan, inimonsely. Those who know India, and those who do not, may road her work with pleasure and prollt." — Standard. " Mrs. Guthrie's charming hook affords a truthful and agreeable picture of an English lady's life in India." — Olobe. ACROSS CENTRAL AMERICA. By J. W. Bod- dam- Whetham, Author of "Pearls of the Pacific," &c. Svo, with Illustrations. 15s. " Mr. Boddam-Whetham writes easily and agroeablj'.'' — Pall Mall Qazclle. "^Ir. Whethiim's new volume contuins the story of his journey by land and river from San Josci do Guatemala to Carmen on the Mexican Gulf. This journey is HO interesting in many ways, that Mr. Whotham's sprightly work may fairly rank as one of those rarer books of travel which tell us something that is really now and (luite worth tolling. It has enabled him to present us with Homo charm- ing jiicturoH of a curious country." — Orajihk. " \ bright and lively account of iulereBting travel. Wo have not mot anywhere a truer picture of Ueulral American scenery and aurrouudiugs.'' — Ulubt. 8 13, Great Marlborough Street. MESSRS HUPtST AND BLACKETT'S TUBLlCATlOm— Continued. THROUGH FRANCE AND BELGIUM, BY RIVER AND CANAL, IN THE STEAM YACHT " YTENE." By W. J. C. MoENS, R.V.Y.C. 1 vol. 8vo. With Illustrations. ISs. 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" Two charming volumes, full of the most interesting matter." — Poit. ON THE WING ; A Southern Flight. By the Hon. Mrs. Alfred Montgomery. 1 vol. 8vo. 14s. THE EXILES AT ST. GERMAINS. By the Author of " The Ladyo Shakerloy." 1 vol. 78. 6d. bound. THE NEW AND POPULAR NOVELS. PUBLISHED BY HURST & BLACKETT. THE LAST OF HER LINE. By tlic Author of " St. Olave's," &c. 3 vols. THE GRAHAMS OF INVERMOY. By M. C. Stirling, Author of "A True Man," &c. 3 vols. PAUL FABER, SURGEON. By George Mac Donald, LL.D., Author of " David Elginbroci," " Robert Falconer," " Alec Forbes," &c. 3 vols. "A powerful story, It is impossible to do justice to its lofty purpose and its rare merits in the limits of a review.'' — John lUill. " In ' Paul Faber ' Dr. Mac Donald adds to his high reputation. The plot is deeply interesting, the characters are life-like, and the incidents remarkably striking." — Court Journal. KELVERDALE. By the Earl of Desart. 3 vols. " Lord Desart's book is agreeable and amusing. 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By the Author of "Ur- suhi's Love Story," " Beautiful Edith," «S:c. 3 vols. "An extremely clever story, remarkably well told." — Atoning Post. MRS. GREY^S REMINISCENCES. By Lady Blakk, Author of " Chiude," " Ruth Ma.wvoll," &c. 3 vols. "A satisfactory, umusing, and attractive book.'' — Jij-aniiniT. 10 THE NEW AND POPULAR NOVELS. PUBLISHED BY HURST & BLACKETT. THE PRIMROSE PATH. By Mrs. OLirnANT, Author of " Chronicles of Carlingford," &c. 3 vols. " Mrs. Oliphant's last novel has merits which will recommend it to the general public, and it should be hailed with something like enthusiasm by all who happen to have, like Sir Ludovic Leslie, ' a warm heart for Fife.' A prettier Scotch story it would be hard to find, and the rellnemeut of its humour and picturesqueness of its descriptive setting cannot fail to be appreciated. There is not a character without individuality from one end of the book to the other.'' — Athenxuin. A CHEQUERED LIFE. By j\Irs. 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By Mrs. Moles- WORTH (Enxis Grahasi), Author of " The Cuckoo Clock," &c. Second Edition. 3 vols. " We have read ' Hathercourt Rectory ' with not a little pleasure. The tone of the book is healthy throughout.' — Saturdati Review. RUBY GREY. By W. Hepworth Dixon. Third Edition. 3 vols. " This novel is one which everyone fond of an exciting story, with a good deal of human interest in it, should read, and upon which it is pleasant to congratulate the author. " — Morning Post. HIS LAST STAKE. By Shirley Smith, Author of " All for Herself," &c. 3 vols. "An extremely interesting story, written in a style much above the average of contemporary works of llction. An excellent novel, aboimding throughout with striking episodes. It is well worth reading. " — Mornimj Post. BROTHER GABRIEL. By M. Betham-Edwards, Author of " Kitty," " Bridget," &c. 3 vols. '• This book may be read with pleasure. It is carefully written, and contains very pleasant sketches of character." — Academij. CALEB BOOTH^S CLERK. By Mrs. G. Linn^us Banks, Author of " The Manchester JIan," &c. 3 vols. "This book is written with power and is a capital story, which wo foond it difQcult to lay down." — Spectator. Published annually, in One Vol., royal 8ro, with the Arms beautifully engraved, handsomely bound, with gilt edges, price 31s. Qd. LODGE'S PEERAGE AND BARONETAGE, CORRECTED BY THE NOBILITY. THE rOETT-EIGHTH EDITION TOR 1879 IS NOW KEADY. Lodge's Peerage and Baronetage is acknowledged to be the most complete, as well as the most elegant, work of the kind. As an esta- blished and authentic authority on all questions respecting the family histories, honours, and connections of the titled aristocracy, no work has ever stood so high. It is published under the especial patronage of Her Majesty, and is annually corrected throughout, from the personal com- munications of the Nobility. It is the only work of its class in which, the type being kept constantly standing, every correction is made in its proper place to the date of publication, an advantage which gives it supremacy over all its competitors. Independently of its full and authentic informa- tion respecting the existing Peers and Baronets of the realm, the most sedulous attention is given in its pages to the collateral branches of the various noble families, and the names of many thousand individuals are introduced, which do not appear in other records of the titled classes. For its authority, correctness, and facihty of arrangement, and the beauty of its typography and binding, the work is justly entitled to the place it occupies on the tables of Her Majesty and the NobiUty. LIST OF THE PRIN Historical View of the Peerage. Parliamentary KoU of the House of Lords. English, Scotch, and Irish Peers, in their orders of Precedence. Alphabetical List of Peers of Great Britain and the United Kingdom, holding supe- rior rank in the Scotch or Irish Peerage. Alphabetical list of Scotch and Irish Peers, holding superior titles in the Peerage of Great Britain and the United Kingdom. A Collective list of Peers, in their order of Precedence. Table of Precedency among Men. Table of Precedency among Women. The Queen and the Royal Family. Peers of the Blood EoyaL The Peerage, alphabetically arranged. Families of such Extinct Peers as have left Widows or Issue. Alphabetical List of the Surnames of all the Peers. CIPAL CONTENTS. The Archbishops and Bishops of England, Ireland, and the Colonies. The Baronetage alphabetically arranged. Alphabetical List of Surnames assumed by members of Noble Families. Alphabetical List of the Second Titles of Peers, usually borne by their Eldest Sons. Alphabetical Index to the Daughters of Dukes, Marquises, and Earls, who, hav- ing married Commoners, retain the title of Lady before their own Christian and their Husband's Surnames. Alphabetical Index to the Daughters of Viscounts and Barons, who, having married Commoners, are styled Honour- able Mrs. ; and, in case of the husband being a Baronet or Knight, Honourable Lady. Mottoes alphabetically arranged and trans- lated. "This work is the most perfect and elaborate record of the living and recently de- ceased members of the Peerage of the Three Kingdoms as it stands at this day. It is a most useful publication. We are happy to bear testimony to the fact that scrupulous accuracy is a distinguishing feature of this book." — Times. " Lodge's Peerage must supersede all other works of the kind, for two reasons: first, it Is on a better plan ; and secondly, it i8"better executed. 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'Nature and Human Nature" is one of the best of Sam Slick's witty and humorous productions, and is well entitled to the large circulation which it cannot fail to obtain in its present convenient and cheap shape. The volume combines with the great recom- mendations of a clear, bold type, and good paper, the lesser but attractive merits of being well illustrated and elegantly bound." — Post. 2. JOHN HALIFAX, GENTLEMAN. "This is a very good and a very interesting work. It is designed to trace the career from boyhood to age of a perfect man — a Christian gentleman; and it abounds in inci- dent both well and highly wrought. Throughout it is conceived in a high spirit, and written with great ability. This cheap and handsome new edition is worthy to pass freely from hand to hand as a gift book in many households." — Examiner. 3. THE CRESCENT AND THE CROSS. BY ELIOT WARBURTON. "Independent of its value as an original narrative, and its useful and interesting information, this work is remarkable for the colouring power and play of fancy with which its descriptions are enlivened. Among its greatest and most lasting charms is its reverent and serious spirit." — Quarterly Review. 4. NATHALIE. By JULIA KAVANAGH. " 'Nathalie' is Miss Kavanagh's best imaginative effort. Its manner is gracious and attractive. Its matter is good. A sentiment, a tenderness, are commanded by her which are as individual as they are elegant." — Athmieum. 5. A WOMAN'S THOUGHTS ABOUT WOMEN. BY THE AUTHOR OF "JOHN HALIFAX, GENTLEMAN." "A book of sound counsel. It is one of the most sensible works of its kind, well- written, true-hearted, and altogether practical. Whoever wishes to give advice to a young lady may thank the author for means of doing so." — Examiner. 6. ADAM GRAEME. By MRS. OLIPHANT. 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BY THE AUTHOR OF " JOHN HALIFAX, GENTLEMAN." "In 'A Life for a Life ' the author is fortunate in a good subject, and has produced a work of strong effect" — Atiu-nieum. HURST & BLACKETT'S STANDARD LIBRARY 10. THE OLD COITRT SUBUEB. By LEIGH HUNT. "A delightful book, that will be welcome to all readers, aud most wolcDme to those who have a love for the best kinds of reading." — Ejaini/ur. 11. MAEGAEET AND HER BRIDESMAIDS. " We recommend all who are in search of a fascinating novel to read this work for themselves. They will Und it well worth their while. There are a freshness and ori- ginality about it quite charming." — Atlienxum. 12. THE OLD JUDGE. By SAM SLICK. "The publications included in this I,ibrary have all been of good quality; many give Information while they entertain, and of that class the book before us is a specimen. The manner in which the Cheap Editions forming the series is produced, deserves especial mention. The paper aud print are unexceptionable ; there is a steel engraving in each volume, and the outsides of them will satisfy the purchaser who likes to see books in handsome uniform." — Examiner. 13. DARIEN. By ELIOT WARBURTON. "This last production of the author of ' The Crescent and the Cross ' has the same elements of a very wide popularity. It will please its thousands." — Globe. U. FAMILY ROMANCE. BY SIR BERNARD BURKE, ULSTER KING OF ARMS. "It were impossible to praise too highly this most interesting book." — Staiulartl. 15. THE LAIRD OF NORLAW. By MRS. OLIPHANT. "The 'Laird of Norlaw' fully sustains the author's high reputation." — Sunday Tiniri. 16. THE ENGLISHWOMAN IN ITALY. " Mrs. Qretton's book is interesting, aud full of opportune instruction." — Times. 17. NOTHING NEW. BY THE AUTHOR OF " JOHN HALIFAX, GENTLEMAN." " 'Nothing New ' displays all those superior merits which have made 'John Ilalifax' one of the most popular works of the day." — J^ost. 18. FREER'S LIFE OF JEANNE D'ALBRET. "Nothing can be more interesting than Miss Freer's story of the life of Jeanne D'Albret, and the narrative is as trustworthy as it is attractive." — Post. 19. THE VALLEY OF A HUNDRED FIRES. Bf THE AUTHOR OF "MARGARET AND HER BRIDESMAIDS." "If asked to classify this work, we should give it a place between 'John Ilalifax 'and The Caxtons.' " — Slandard. 20. THE ROMANCE OF THE FORUM. BY PETER BURKE, SERGEANT AT LAW. " A work of singular interest, which can never fail to charm." — Illustrated Netet. 21. ADELE. By JULIA KAVANAGH. " ' Adele ' is the best work we have read by Miss Kavanagh ; it is a charming story full of delicate character-painting." — At/umi'unL 22. STUDIES FROM LIFE. BY THE AUTHOR OF "JOHN HALIFAX, GENTLEMAN." "These 'Studies from Life ' are remarkable for graphic power and obsorvatioa The book will not diminish the reputation of the accompli.shed author." — Satuntay Kcvietc. 2.3. GRANDMOTHER'S MONEY. "We commend 'Oraiidinother's Money' to readers in search of a, good novel. The characters are true to human nature, and the story is iutorostiug." — Atlunieuni. HURST & BLACKETT'S STANDARD LIBRARY 24. A BOOK ABOUT DOCTORS. BY J. C. JEAFFRESON. "A delightful book." — Athenxum. "A book to be read and re-read; fit for the study RB well aa the drawing-room table and the circulating library." — Lancet. 25. NO CHURCH. "We tidTise all who have the opportunity to read this book." — Atfienxum. 26. MISTRESS AND MAID. BY THE AUTHOR OF " JOHN HALIFAX, GENTLEMAN." " A good wholesome book, gracefully written, and as pleasant to read as it is instruc- tive." — Athenaum. " A charming tale charmingly told." — Standard. 27. LOST AND SAVED. By HON. MRS. NORTON. " ' Lost and Saved ' will be read with eager interest. It is a vigorous novel" — Tinv.i "A novel of rare excellence. It is Mrs. Norton's best prose work." — Examiner. 28. LES MISERABLES. By VICTOR HUGO. AUTHORISED COPYRIGHT ENGLISH TRANSLATION. "The merits of 'Les Miserables' do not merely consist in the conception of it as a whole ; it abounds with details of unequalled beauty. M. Victor Hugo has stamped upon every page the hall-mark of genius." — Quarti:rly Review. 29. BARBARA'S HISTORY. By AMELIA B. EDWARDS. " It is not often that we light upon a novel of so much merit and interest as ' Barbara's History.' It is a work conspicuous for taste and literary culture. It ia a very graceful ind charming book, with a well-managed story, clearly-cut characters, and sentiments expressed with an exquisite elocution. It is a book which the world will like." — Times. 30. LIFE OF THE REV. EDWARD IRVING. BY MRS. OLIPHANT. " A good book on a most interesting theme." — Times. " A truly interesting and most affecting memoir. Irviug's Life ought to have a niche In every gallery of religious biography. There are few lives that will be fuller of in- struction, interest, and consolation." — Saturday Review. 31. ST. OLAVE'S. "This charming novel is the work of one who possesses a great talent for writing, as well as experience and knowledge of the world. ' — Atlienceunu 32. SAM SLICK'S AMERICAN HUMOUR. "Dip where you will Into this lottery of fun, you are sure to draw out a prize." — Post 33. CHRISTIAN'S MISTAKE. BY THE AUTHOR OF " JOHN HALIFAX, GENTLEMAN." "A more charming story has rarely been written. Even if tried by the standard of the Archbishop of York, we should expect that even he wovUd pronounce 'Christian's Mistake' a novel without .a fault" — Times. 34. ALEC FORBES OF HOWGLEN. BY GEORGE MAC DONALD, LL.D. " No account of this story would give any idea of the profound interest that poryailos the work from the Urst page to the last" — AtheiKBum. 35. AGNES. By MRS. OLIPHANT. " ' Agnes ' is a novel superior to any of Mrs. Oliphant's former works." — Athenceum. "A story whose pathetic beauty will appeal irresistibly to all readera" — Post. 30. A NOBLE LIFE. BY THE AUTHOR OF "JOHN HALIFAX, GENTLEMAN." "This is one of those pleasant tales in which the author of 'John Halifax' speaks out of a generous heart the purest truths of life." — Examiner. HUKST & BLACKETT'S STANDARD LIBRARY 37. NEW AMERICA. By HEPWOETH DIXON. "A very interesting book. Mr. Dixon has written thouRhtfuUy and well." — Timts. "We recommend every one who feels any interest iu human nature to read Mr. Dixon's very interesting book." — Saturday Review. 38. ROBERT FALCONER. BY GEORGE MAC DONALD, LL.D. " ' Robert Falconer ' is a work brimful of life and humour and of the deepest human Interest It is a book to be returned to again and again for the deep and searching knowledge it evinces of human thoughts and feelings." — Athenceum. 39. THE WOMAN'S KINGDOM. BY THE AUTHOR OF "JOHN HALIFAX, GENTLEMAN." "'The Woman's Kingdom' sustains the author's reputation as a writer of the purest and noblest kind of domestic stories. — Atliemeuin. 40. ANNALS OF AN EVENTFUL LIFE. BY GEORGE WEBBE DASENT, D.C.L. "A racy, well-written, and original novel. The interest never flags. The whole work sparkles with wit and humour." — Quarterly Review. 41. DAVID ELGINBEOD. By GEORGE MAC DONALD. "The work of a man of genius. It will attract the highest class of readers." — Tiinei. 42. A BRAVE LADY. BY THE AUTHOR OF " JOHN HALH^'AX, GENTLEMAN." "A very good novel; a thoughtful, well-wiitten book, showing a tender sympathy with human nature, and permeated by a pure and noble spirit'' — Examiner. 43. HANNAH. BY THE AUTHOR OF " JOHN HALIFAX, GENTLEMAN." " A very pleasant, healthy story, well and artistically told. The book is sure of a wide circle of readers. The character of Hannah is one of rare beauty." — Standard. 44. SAM SLICK'S AMERICANS AT HOME. "This is one of the most amusing books that we ever read." — Standard. 45. THE UNKIND WORD. BY THE AUTHOR OF " JOHN HALIFAX, GENTLEMAN." "The author of 'John Halifax 'has written many fascinating stories, but we can call to mind nothing from her pen that has a more enduring charm than the graceful sketches in this work." — United Service Magazine. 4G. A ROSE IN JUNE. By MRS. OLIPHANT. " ' A Eose in June ' is as pretty as its title. The story is one of the best and most touching which we owe to the industry and talent of Mrs. Oliphant, and may hold its own with even ' The Chronicles of Curlingford.' " — Times. 47. MY LITTLE LADY. By E. F. POYNTER. "There is a great deal of fascination about this book. The author writes in a clear, unaffected style; she has a decided gift for depicting character, while the descriptions of scenery convey a distinct pictorial impression to the reader." — Times. 48. PHCEBE, JUNIOR. By MRS. OLIPHANT. "This novel shows gioat knowlcigo of human nutuio. The interest goes on grov/ing to the end. rhtobe is e.\collt'utly drawn." — Tiims. 49. LIFE OF MARIE ANTOINETTE. BY PROFESSOR CHARLES DUKE Yt)NGE. " A work of remarkable merit and interest, which will, wo doubt not, become the most popular English history of Mario Antoinette." — Sjiectator. " This book is well written, and of thrilling interest" — Acaiktn]/, l(t RETURN CIRCULATION DEPARTMENT T0»^ 202 Main Library LOAN PERIOD 1 HOME USE 2 3 4 5 ( b ALL BOOKS MAY BE RECALLED AFTER 7 DAYS ::!^S^<^I^\''(^i^:'rl?^ "■'-^- ' ^^^5 ^"'O'^ TO DUE DATE. DUE AS STAMPED BELOW Aiif 09 IQflft ^U'-^'' UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA, BERKELEY FORM NO. DD6, 60m, 1/83 BERKELEY, CA 94720