THE LIBRARY 
 
 OF 
 
 THE UNIVERSITY 
 OF CALIFORNIA 
 
 LOS ANGELES
 
 A 
 
 / 
 
 / 
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD.
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 JOURNAL OF A DEPUTATION 
 
 WESLEYAN CONFERENCE 
 
 AUSTRALIA AND POLYNESIA 
 
 INCLUDING 
 
 NOTICES OF A VISIT TO THE GOLD-FIELDS. 
 
 BY THE REV. ROBERT YOUNG. 
 
 THIRD THOUSAND. 
 
 LONDON: 
 
 HAMILTON, ADAMS, AND CO.: 
 SOLD BY JOHN MASON, 66, PATERNOSTER-ROW. 
 
 18.55.
 
 7.1 
 
 yn 
 
 PREFACE, 
 
 THE Author of the following pages having in eighteen 
 months passed over a large portion of the globe, his remarks 
 on the different countries visited are necessarily brief. He 
 has described things as they appeared to him; and although 
 interspersing his journal with several miscellaneous subjects, 
 he has endeavoured to keep in view the object of his mission. 
 No labour has been spared to obtain correct information on 
 the various topics introduced : and he would here gratefully 
 acknowledge his obligation to the Missionaries and other 
 gentlemen, for the readiness and clearness with which they 
 answered his numerous inquiries, and thus put him in pos- 
 session of much valuable information, which he could not 
 otherwise have obtained. 
 
 It was the Author's intention to have offered some sugges- 
 tions on Emigration; but having seen that other writers have 
 anticipated him, and furnished muqh suitable advice to emi- 
 grants, the only remarks which he would now venture to make 
 on the subject are these : If people are doing well at home, 
 they had better be content to remain there, lest, like many he 
 has met with, they should change for the worse. To those who 
 thiflk they must emigrate, he would respectfully intimate that 
 if they are delicate, and have been tenderly brought up, they 
 ought not to emigrate to the "diggings," unless they are 
 
 A 3 
 
 1217184
 
 IV PREFACE. 
 
 prepared to dig their own graves. Mechanics, agriculturists, 
 labourers, and miners are the classes best adapted to the 
 present state of Australia; and if such parties be healthy, 
 sober, industrious, of good principles, possessed of common 
 sense, and willing to endure hardship and discomfort for a 
 season, they may emigrate to any of the Australian colonies 
 with a reasonable hope of success. 
 
 The writer is thankful to be able to state that the object 
 of his mission to the Southern World has been satisfactorily 
 accomplished, and that the Wesleyan Mission churches in 
 Australia and Polynesia have been formed into a distinct 
 Connexion, with a Conference of its own. This important 
 arrangement is now committed to the watchful care and 
 guidance of Him, without whose blessing nothing is wise, or 
 good, or strong. 
 
 London, September 23, 1854.
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 INTRODUCTORY remarks Parting scene Sea-sickness First 
 Sabbath Loss of masts Screw entangled Flag of distress 
 A leak springs Steer for Lisbon Arrival Appearance of 
 the city Popery Tomb of Doddridge Anniversary of the 
 great earthquake Murder on board the " Melbourne" Bull- 
 fighting Procession of the Host Deputation from London 
 Return to England . . . . . .1 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 Sailing of the "Adelaide" Disaster Return to Plymouth Starts 
 again Gale Cabin flooded Ship on fire Canary Isles St. 
 Vincent No coals Character of passengers Crossing the 
 Line Boy drowned Burial at sea St. Helena An execu- 
 tion Visit to Napoleon's tomb Another death Gambling on 
 board Arrival at the Cape . . . . .18 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 Cape-Town Visit to Constantia Duel prevented School anniver- 
 sary Departure Gale Another death Alarm of fire t 
 Albatross Fearful gale Passengers assist at the pumps 
 Religious views Uncle Tom's Cabin An evening party 
 Land in sight Arrival in Australia . . . .41
 
 Vlll CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Australia Swan-River Aborigines Funeral "in the wilderness 
 Departure Kangaroo- Island Arrival in South Australia 
 Visit to Adelaide Departure Hobson's Bay Arrival in 
 Melbourne Visit to St. Kilda Brighton, and Geelong 
 Departure Squatters and Diggers Arrival in Sydney -. 58 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 New South Wales Sydney Official Address Missionary Meetings 
 Visit to Windsor, Richmond, and Paramatta Snow Sydney 
 University State support of Religion A peculiar character 
 Legislative Council Speaker Visit to the University Census 
 Schedules . . ,89 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 Schools Australian Board of Missions Emancipated convicts 
 Public Library Convict establishment Sydney District- 
 Meeting Wesleyan College More Ministers wanted Govern- 
 ment immigrants Atheist reclaimed New Constitution Bill 
 Speeches on the second reading A fallen Minister imprisoned 
 Death-adder Debate in the Council New Exchange 
 Arrival of Missionaries from Polynesia Dust-storm . 118 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 Embark for New Zealand Passengers New Zealand in sight 
 Tradition as to its origin North Cape Waingaroa Arrival at 
 Auckland The town V/esleyan Chapel District-Meeting 
 Education Letter from the Governor Government scheme 
 Members of the Mission churches Mission property The 
 union of the Mission with Australia Missionary Meeting Mr. 
 Whiteley's replies to sundry questions .... 139
 
 CONTENTS. IX 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Missionaries' bush costume Long journey Tea-meeting Mount 
 Eden Visit to "Three Kings' Institution" Sermon in the 
 Free Church Interview with Epiha Putini Message to the 
 Queen Wesleyan College Auckland Day-school Letters 
 from native Christians . . 161 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 Interview with natives Tattooing Cannibalism Statements of 
 Christian natives A. Christian Chief Land squabbles Letter 
 from a Chief Anniversary of Captain Cook's discovery of New 
 Zealand Massacres Canoes Intellectual character of the 
 natives John Hobbs Review of the work Bishop Selwyn 
 Missionaries Colonization Colonists Departure for the 
 Friendly Isles . . . . . . .184 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 Friendly Isles Arrival in Tongatabu Visit to King George- 
 Normal Institution Family worship Queen Charlotte Pre- 
 paration for the Sabbath Meeting of Missionaries Sabbath 
 Class-meetings Tapa beating King's visit to Australia 
 Offers to provision the ship Visit from the Queen Present 
 from the King Visit to the seat of the late war Mua Popery 
 Extraordinary tornbs God-houses School examination 
 Chief Justice Mr. Adams's astronomy , . . 210 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 Departure from Tonga Queen's letter Population Political con- 
 stitution Recognised ranks Mental character Education 
 Arrival at Vavau Sabbath Church-meeting School 
 examination Kava drinking Letter to the King His reply 
 Native Minister Produce of the islands Employment of 
 the people Social condition Domestic circle Tradition 
 How the people speak of their former condition. . . 234
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Departure from Vavau Vampyre-bat Introduction of Christianity 
 into Vavau Revival in 1834, 1846 Introduction of Popery 
 Prevalence of the Wesleyans Church-members Contri- 
 butions Character of the people Diseases Tradition 
 Review of the work Sabbath observance Family worship 
 Love of the Scriptures Civilization King George . . 256 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 Feejee Lakemba Church-meeting Joel Bulu Arrival of the 
 Mail Dinner sent by the King Native pottery Kind children 
 Another dinner sent School examination King George 
 preaches A marriage Cannibalism King of Lakemba 
 Popish Priests foiled Rotumah Departure Political Consti- 
 tution Ranks Character of the people Improvement 
 Native agents Education Hindrances War Considerations 
 which sustain Missionaries Arrival at Vewa. . . . 277 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 Vewa Meeting of Missionaries Visit to Bau Thakombau King 
 of Somosomo School examination Meditated revenge 
 Change in Christian Feejeeans Civilization Native's esti- 
 mate of Missionaries Sacrifice of human life Effects of 
 European and American visitors Mental character Roman- 
 ism Means of support Treatment of women Resources for 
 trade Prospect of Christianizing the people General aspect 
 and character of the country Climate Commerce Cannibal- 
 ism Character of the Heathen Means of civilization Super- 
 stition Tradition Courtship "Women in power Contrast 
 between Christians and the Heathen Clothing . . 302
 
 CONTENTS. XI 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Visit to the tomb of Mr? Hunt The war at Ovalau Death and 
 character of Varani Women strangled Heroic conduct of 
 Missionaries to save life Contents of cannibal ovens obtained 
 for interment Customs apparently of Asiatic origin De- 
 parture from Vewa Review of the work of the Mission 
 Voyage to Sydney ...... 324 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 King George in Sydney Legislative Council The King at a party 
 Missionary Meeting Valedictory address Departure from 
 Sydney Review of the rise and progress of Methodism in New 
 South Wales Letter from Rev. R. Mansfield Arrival in 
 Melbourne Departure for Mount Alexander Journey 
 Arrival at Forest Creek Digger's wedding Christmas-day on 
 the gold-fields Bendigo State of the digging population 
 Influence of Methodism Large tea-meeting Average earnings 
 of gold-diggers Return to Melbourne . . . 352 
 
 CHAPTER XVII. 
 
 New-year Hot wind and dust-storm Departure for Van Diemen's 
 Land Arrival in Launceston Journey through the island 
 Hobart-Town Various meetings Sandy-Bay Return to 
 Launceston More meetings Contributions for additional 
 Ministers Inconvenience of departing from a penal Colony 
 Rise and progress of Methodism in the land Arrival in Mel- 
 bourne Meetings Review of the Mission in Victoria Mission 
 to the Aborigines Cause of its failure Native Institution 
 at Loddon . 383
 
 Xll CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Departure from Melbourne Arrival at Adelaide Wesleyan church 
 in that colony Unhappy death of a passenger Arrival at 
 King George's Sound Review of the work in Australasia- 
 New Ecclesiastical arrangement Character of Missionaries 
 Departure for Ceylon Unfortunate letter Tropical sunset 
 Arrival at Point-de-Galle Cinnamon gardens Budhist temple 
 Interview with priests Conversations with Native Christians 
 Mission-schools Missionaries' challenge to the Devil-priests 409 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 Departure from Ceylon Letter from a native Christian Passengers 
 Arrival at Aden Scriptural illustrations Arabs Departure 
 Red Sea Mount Horeb Passage of the Israelites Suez 
 Loading camels Journey across the Desert Mirage Rag- 
 tree Arrival in Cairo Grand Mosque Joseph's Well Slave- 
 market Bazaars Enmity of Mohammedans The Nile 
 Canal Mohammedan Bailors Alexandria Malta Meeting 
 of the English and French soldiers Gibraltar Arrival at 
 home . . . . . .42 
 
 NOTES 
 
 REFERRED TO IN THE VOLUME. 
 
 A. Rules and Regulations of the Wesleyan Immigrants' Home . 441 
 
 B. Table, showing the state of the Labour-market . . . 442 
 
 C. Extract from the Minutes of the New South Wales District- 
 
 Meeting 443 
 
 D. Imports and Exports of New South Wales .... 444 
 
 E. Minutes of a Leaders' Meeting, held at Auckland, New 
 
 Zealand, September 23, 1853 444 
 
 F. Skeleton of a Sermon by Shadrach Mumui, Chief Judge of Tonga 445 
 
 G. The Laws of the Kingdoms of Tonga, Haabai, and Vavau . 446 
 H. Brief Outline of King George's Sermon ..... 454 
 I. Letter from the Rev. J. Wesley to Mr. Valton .... 455 
 K. Statistical View of Mission Churches in the Australasian Connexion 455 
 L. Public challenge to the Devil-priests of Ceylon noticed . . 456
 
 JOURNAL OF A DEPUTATION 
 
 AUSTRALIA AND POLYNESIA, 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 INTRODUCTORY remarks Parting scene Sea-sickness First Sabbath 
 Loss of masts Screw entangled Flag of distress A leak springs 
 Steer for Lisbon Arrival Appearance of the city Popery Tomb of 
 Doddridge Anniversary of the great earthquake Murder on board the 
 " Melbourne" Bull-fighting Procession of the Host Deputation from 
 London Return to England. 
 
 CHRISTIANITY is essentially aggressive. Its precepts direct, 
 and its spirit excites, its recipients to labour in its diffusion ; 
 whilst its prophecies and promises encourage them to anticipate 
 the most glorious success. Missionaries, therefore, must be 
 sent forth, and, in some instances, for a time " take nothing of 
 the Gentiles," but derive their support from the churches at 
 home. The necessity of the case may require this, and the 
 example of the primitive Church can be cited^ in behalf of 
 such arrangement. But this state of things is only preliminary 
 to that which is more perfect. It is not intended to continue, 
 and indeed in the nature of things cannot do so. Churches 
 raised by Missionary instrumentality must not be pauperised, 
 but as soon as practicable provide for themselves, and contri- 
 bute their exertions to send the Gospel still farther into the 
 regions beyond. That this from the beginning has been the 
 plan of the Great Head of the Church for disseminating 
 Christianity, is an undoubted fact. Of this England itself, the 
 origin of whose Christianity is to be traced to Missionary
 
 2 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 labours among our pagan ancestors, affords a very striking 
 illustration. Were this plan to be practically abafldoned, much 
 evil would ensue. Mission churches which might continue to 
 lean upon the support of others when they had passed their 
 infancy and were capable of providing for themselves, would 
 thereby cramp their own operations, deprive themselves 
 of a healthy and well-developed activity, and, as an inevit- 
 able result, become deteriorated in their religious character; 
 whilst the churches at home, impoverished by such conduct, 
 would not be able to prosecute the great work of evangelizing 
 the world with that vigour which they otherwise would exert. 
 This manifest order of God therefore requires that at the proper 
 time Mission churches should undertake the duty of providing 
 for themselves and managing their own local affairs. And 
 if this ought to be done by churches raised up in heathen 
 lands, how much more so by those established in Christian 
 colonies ? 
 
 After much deliberation on the part of the Wesleyan Mis- 
 sionary Committee and Conference, it was thought the time 
 had arrived when their important Mission churches in Australia, 
 including Van Diemen's Land, ought thus to be cast upon 
 their own resources. In those churches it was believed there 
 were adequate pecuniary resources to supply the means for 
 the accomplishment of this arrangement, and piety and intel- 
 ligence rendering them capable of taking with advantage this 
 higher position among the churches of Christ. 
 
 To make preliminary arrangements for the introduction of 
 this important measure, a deputation to the Southern World 
 was deemed highly necessary, and the author was requested to 
 undertake its duties. After much anxious thought on the 
 subject, he consented to do so, and the following pages contain 
 extracts from the journal which he kept whilst prosecuting the 
 work to which he had been appointed. 
 
 October 15th, 1852. Having taken my passage by the 
 " Melbourne," one of the vessels of the " Australian Royal Mail
 
 THE SOUTHERN WOULD. 6 
 
 Steain Navigation Company," bound for Sydney, I left my 
 much-beloved family, and embarked at Plymouth. I found 
 150 passengers on board; amongst whom was the Rev. John 
 Kirk, who had been appointed to accompany me. This 
 being the last English port at which the ship was to touch, 
 some very affecting scenes occurred whilst attached friends and 
 relations were being separated, with but little or no hope of 
 ever meeting again in this world of change. Here was a fond 
 sister, in a paroxysm of grief, hanging on the neck of an only 
 brother ; and there a venerable parent, of more than threescore 
 years and ten, struggling with deep emotion whilst giving his 
 last blessing to his adventurous son. In another direction was 
 seen a respectable lady in deep mourning, bowed down with 
 sorrow, as she leaned on the arm of a friend. Joseph was not ; 
 Simeon was not; and now Benjamin was about to be taken from 
 her. 
 
 A very different scene appeared in another part of the 
 vessel. Two Sheriff's officers were engaged in arresting a 
 debtor who was escaping from his creditors. The unhappy 
 man compromised^ the matter by the payment of a large sum, 
 and was allowed to proceed. Similar officers were sent after 
 another culprit; but, although they went in the ship some dis- 
 tance beyond the breakwater, he managed to evade their most 
 diligent search. Honest men may be brought into difficulty, but 
 in all such cases they will be disposed to arrange honourably with 
 their creditors, and not covertly escape to some distant land. 
 
 IGth. The vessel rolled much, and nearly all the passengers 
 were affected with sea-sickness, which induced several of them 
 to regret their having left the shores of England. I saw many 
 a prostrate form and ghastly look, and thought if any member 
 of the medical faculty should discover either a preventive 
 or cure for this distressing malady, he would be gratefully 
 remembered as a public benefactor. 
 
 17 ill. Sabbath. Held a religious service in the saloon, and 
 was much pleased with the attendance. The ship was very 
 unsteady, but by " holding on" we managed to get through 
 without interruption. 
 
 B 2
 
 4 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 18th. Commenced visiting the sick on board, amongst whom 
 I found an interesting young man, who had ruptured a blood- 
 vessel, and appeared to be dying. He belonged to a very 
 respectable family, and wept when he referred to his parents. 
 His cabin was flooded with water, and I was obliged to stand 
 upon a thick piece of timber ; but even then I could not keep 
 myself dry, and the bedding of the afflicted youth was saturated. 
 I directed him to the Friend of sinners as his only hope, and 
 commended him to God. 
 
 19th. About 1 o'clock this morning we met with a serious 
 accident. Our vessel being a full-rigged ship, and her steam 
 power but auxiliary, the Captain was anxious to make the best 
 of the very fine breezes with which we were favoured, and 
 therefore put upon her a heavy press of canvass ; when, unfor- 
 tunately, she rolled her masts overboard, carried away part of 
 her bulwarks, and received other damage. The spars, sails, and 
 other parts of the rigging became entangled with the screw 
 propeller, and rendered it totally powerless. Thus in a few 
 minutes we were completely disabled, deprived of our twofold 
 power, and left to the mercy of the waves. When the day 
 dawned the disaster became more manifest, and I perceived that 
 several of the passengers had put on their "life-preservers," and, 
 from their very anxious countenances, were evidently expecting 
 to have a plunge. One person had hung a bag of sovereigns 
 around his neck, and seemed determined to save his money, or to 
 perish with it. Another individual, under great alarm, inquired 
 anxiously of an officer on duty as to the safety of the life-boat, 
 and being informed that one of the sailors had left the plug out 
 of it when at Plymouth, his alarm was much increased. The 
 waggish son of Neptune, who had been in many a storm, and 
 who feared no danger, seeing the effect of his statement, very 
 coolly said to his trembling inquirer, that the case was not so 
 bad as he appeared to think it, for the first officer, having found 
 out the defect, had with great promptitude put some strong 
 brown paper into the hole, to meet the present emergency. 
 On hearing this, the poor excited and simple man immediately 
 communicated the matter to the doctor, and said, as there
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 5 
 
 would no doubt be a tremendous rush to the life-boat, and as 
 he was greatly enfeebled through sickness, he felt assured that 
 there would be no chance of his getting a place therein unless 
 the doctor would give him a certificate as to the state of his 
 health; and in order to secure that favour, he voluntarily 
 offered to take his place in the boat before it was lowered, and 
 solemnly engaged to sit firmly upon the brown paper, and thus 
 render the boat doubly secure ! It was too bad thus to sport 
 with the fears of an almost distracted man, especially as he 
 heard the Captain say there was great danger of the ship going 
 down; but some men will yield to their prevailing tendency 
 in the very presence of death. 
 
 A little after 6 o'clock a vessel was seen in the distance, 
 and the Captain made the usual signal of distress. She ap- 
 proached, and learned the nature of our disaster. About noon 
 another vessel appeared, and as our signal was still flying, she 
 also came and ascertained our circumstances. The former was 
 the brig "Reaper," of Dundee, bound for Berbice; the latter, 
 the schooner " Alexander," of Exeter, bound for the Brazils ; 
 and although the wind was favourable, they gallantly stood by 
 us for thirty-six hours, until we conceived our danger past. The 
 whole of the day was spent in labouring to clear the screw, but 
 without effect. 
 
 20th. After much exertion the screw was lifted, and disen- 
 tangled; and about 8 o'clock P.M. resumed its work, to the joy 
 of every one on board. 
 
 In the afternoon, two swallows, much exhausted, came on 
 board; and as we were about 400 miles from land, they were 
 doubtless migrating to a more congenial clime. As "the stork 
 in the heaven knoweth her appointed time, and the turtle, and 
 the crane, and the swallow observe the time of their coming," 
 I was encouraged to believe that He who guided the swallow 
 in her flight across the trackless.ocean, would direct the course 
 of those who put their trust in Him, and in due time conduct 
 them to the city of habitation. 
 
 2lst. We began to repair in some degree our damage, until 
 we should reach Cape de Verd Islands, but our disasters were 
 
 B 3
 
 O THE SOUTHEBN WORLD. 
 
 not yet past; for about 9 o'clock P.M. the Captain summoned 
 the passengers into the saloon, and informed them that the 
 vessel had sprung a leak; and that, as it would be danger- 
 ous to proceed on our course, he had, on consulting his officers, 
 determined to steer for Lisbon. He also stated that should 
 the leak dangerously enlarge during the night, the .boats would 
 be ready for our escape, but they would not accommodate 
 more than one-half of the persons on board. Certainly this 
 was not a very pleasing announcement! We were in the 
 midst of tremendous waves, and upwards of 400 miles from 
 land. I ceased from man, retired to my cabin, committed my 
 case to Him who holds "the wind in his fists," and "the waters 
 in the hollow of his hand," laid myself down and slept in peace, 
 and did not awake until the break of day. 
 
 22d. Many acknowledged the kind providence of God in 
 having preserved us during the night; and as we were still in 
 danger, I perceived a disposition on the part of some of the 
 most ungodly to cry unto the Lord in their trouble. Human 
 nature was obviously the same in the days of the Psalmist. 
 Speaking of those " who go down to the sea in ships," and 
 who in consequence of the waves thereof are brought to their 
 " wit's end,". he declares that "then they cry unto the Lord in 
 their trouble." Of this truth we had some striking examples 
 on board the " Melbourne :" many a cry was heard, and many 
 a prayer went up to heaven, from lips evidently unaccustomed 
 to devotion. 
 
 23d. A meeting of the first-class passengers took place to 
 consider the propriety of our not proceeding farther than 
 Lisbon in the " Melbourne." Very much against my inclina- 
 tion I was called to the chair; and from the manifest discomfort 
 and danger of the vessel to passengers, as indicated by the 
 statement of the medical officer, the meeting unanimously 
 resolved that it would be unsafe to proceed farther in the ship, 
 and agreed to request the "Australian Royal Mail Steam 
 Navigation Company" to provide them with a proper and 
 efficient steam-vessel, to enable them to continue their voyage ; 
 or to refund their passage-money, and pay their expenses from
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 7 
 
 Lisbon to England. The second and third-class passengers 
 addressed a similar request to the Company. 
 
 24rth. /Sabbath. We entered the spacious and beautiful 
 harbour of Lisbon. The morning was lovely, and as the sun 
 shone upon the city, which stands upon seven hills, its appear- 
 ance from the river exceeded in beauty anything of the kind 
 I had ever witnessed; and I should have gazed upon it with 
 intense delight, had not certain indications reminded me most 
 affectingly that the " Man of sin " reigned there. The con- 
 fusion on board prevented our holding any religious service, 
 and was much calculated to distract the mind. 
 
 Most of the passengers went on shore; and many of them, 
 I regret to say, attended the theatre. How unstable is man ! 
 Some of those who thus desecrated the Sabbath had, but a few 
 days before, made solemn vows to God ; but, now that the 
 danger was past, their vows were forgotten, and their Divine 
 Preserver insulted. Nor was this any new phase in human 
 nature. When the plague was upon Pharaoh, endangering his 
 life, he "called for Moses and Aaron, and said unto them, I 
 have sinned this time : the Lord is righteous, and I and my 
 people are wicked," and he made vows unto the Lord; but 
 when "he saw that the rain and the hail and the thunder had 
 ceased, he sinned yet more, and hardened his heart, neither 
 would he let the children of Israel go." So the parties in 
 question, who during the season of danger made solemn vows 
 to God, seem to have been no more sincere than the Egyptian 
 King, or they would have exalted their Deliverer in the con- 
 gregation of the saints, rather than have dishonoured Him in 
 the assembly of the ungodly. 
 
 25^/4. After breakfast, I went on shore, and soon found that 
 Lisbon looked best at a distance. Its streets are generally 
 narrow and filthy, and its churches externally are not imposing, 
 but internally many of them are magnificent, and exhibit most 
 costly decorations. Its population is estimated at 260,000. 
 
 27th. The ship was surveyed by the doctor of the Naval 
 Hospital, and the surgeon of Her Majesty's steam-ship the 
 " Inflexible," who reported very unfavourably of her sanatory
 
 8 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 condition. I do not like, without good and sufficient cause, to 
 express any censure upon a public Company. It is, however, but 
 simple truth to say, that there was not a passenger on board who 
 did not feel that he had been thoroughly imposed upon. I do not 
 say it was designedly done, as I believe the Company incapable 
 of that ; but the vessel having been built for other service, was 
 never adapted for passengers; and from her being over-crowded 
 and over-loaded, together with her defective fitting-up and 
 general arrangements, it was impossible for them to realise 
 that comfort which they had been so confidently, and in the 
 most glowing terms, taught to expect. The ports being low, 
 could not be opened for ventilation without admitting water; 
 and there being no other means of ventilating the berths, their 
 closeness became most oppressive and unbearable; and being 
 generally flooded with sea-water, even in fine weather, comfort 
 was rendered impossible. I had one of the best cabins in the 
 ship, but frequently there were several inches of water in it. 
 Others were much more deluged, and some of them fairly 
 presented foaming billows during the rolling of the vessel. 
 The accumulation of filth, and the want of arrangement 
 throughout, led to serious complaints, and not a little bitter- 
 ness. To have been thus treated in any vessel would have 
 created dissatisfaction; but these things occurring in a Royal 
 Mail steamer, where much better things had been amply paid 
 for, and might have been reasonably expected, gave an impulse 
 to discontent; and but for the good sense of the passengers 
 we should have had an outbreak of feeling. I think it a great 
 mistake for three classes of passengers to be in the same vessel. 
 It creates caste, and leads to various heartburnings, as I fre- 
 quently witnessed. In the Royal Mail steamer especially, there 
 should be but one class of passengers. It would be much more 
 comfortable for the passengers themselves, and I have no doubt 
 ultimately more profitable to the Company. 
 
 28^. Having received from the British Consul an unfavour- 
 able account as to the seaworthiness of the " Melbourne," the 
 passengers had a meeting on shore ; and, after considering the 
 whole case, several of them determined to return to England
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. <J 
 
 by the Mediterranean Mail steamer, which had just arrived. I, 
 however, thought it the wisest course to remain at Lisbon until 
 I should hear from London. The medical officer having 
 pronounced it unsafe to sleep on board the " Melbourne," 
 I took lodgings at the Braganza Hotel, where many of 
 the passengers had been ever since their arrival in port. 
 The charge, including everything, was 6s. 6d. per day. 
 The sleeping accommodations were not good, equal only to 
 those of the humblest English cottage; at least I found it 
 to be so in No. 13; and I heard other lodgers complain of 
 the poverty of their rooms, and of the hardness of their beds 
 of straw. 
 
 31st. The /Sabbath, but not in Lisbon a day of rest. I left 
 the hotel a little after 9 o'clock ; and saw, not only the 
 . shops open for all kinds of traffic, but the artizans pursuing 
 their respective employments without let or hindrance. 
 " Saints' days," of which we had two last week, seem to be 
 more religiously observed than the Sabbath of the Lord. "The 
 commandments of men," in this, as in every Popish city, "make 
 the law of God of none effect." I hope I may not also be 
 accused of Sabbath-breaking, when I say that, with the view of 
 gaining information as to the religious state of the people, I 
 visited several Romish churches on my way to St. George's 
 Chapel, and felt my spirit stirred within me when I beheld 
 the city given to idolatry. In those churches, as well as in 
 many others which I subsequently attended, I was struck with 
 the preponderance of female worshippers, six-sevenths of the 
 congregations being women ; and the men present were 
 generally old, infirm, and seemingly paupers. Another thing 
 which arrested my attention was, the superior homage paid to 
 the Virgin Mary. In several of the churches the Saviour was 
 represented in the deepest humiliation, whilst Mary appeared 
 in robes of state, seated upon a magnificent throne, and a 
 splendid crown upon her head. I also observed that in shrines, 
 candles, decorations, offerings, and in the number of devotees, 
 she unquestionably had the pre-eminence, and was manifestly 
 the idol oY the people.
 
 10 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 I reached St. George's Chapel about half an hour too soon, 
 and employed the interval very profitably in " meditations 
 among the tombs." The English cemetery, in the centre of 
 which stands the chapel, is a most enchanting place. The 
 large and graceful cypress-trees with which it is shaded, and 
 its numerous and affecting monuments erected by many a 
 bleeding heart, harmonised with my feelings, and for some time 
 kept me spell-bound. I beheld, with not a little interest, the 
 monument which covers the dust of Fielding. But that which 
 impressed me most was the tomb of Doddridge. I leaned over 
 it with peculiar emotion. I thought of the Dutch tiles by 
 which his mother tauglit him to read, and the eminence to 
 which he rose from that humble beginning. I thought of his 
 " Rise and Progress of Religion in the Soul;" a work which 
 had been made a blessing to many, and which in all probability 
 would continue to be so for years to come : and Avhilst my 
 mind was thus engaged, I fancied that the tomb of Doddridge, 
 like the cave of Machpelah, might be recognised as an earnest 
 and pledge that the spiritual seed of Abraham, of which he 
 was so bright an example, should inherit Portugal, and spread 
 over the land that vital religion for which Doddridge so ably 
 contended. 
 
 I entered the chapel with my mind much solemnised, and 
 was happy to find the absence of every mark of Puseyism. Its 
 elegant simplicity contrasted beautifully with what I had just 
 witnessed in the Romish churches. The British Ambassador, 
 the British Consul, and several persons of distinction, were 
 present. Many of our passengers were also there ; and the 
 congregation amounted to about 180 persons. The Clergyman 
 preached from John iii. 18; and although the text contained 
 the very pith of the Gospel, there was so much obscurity in the 
 discourse, that I regret to say no man, however sincere, could 
 find in it any satisfactory answer to the momentous question, 
 " What must I do to be saved?" 
 
 November 1st. The anniversary of the great earthquake of 
 1755, by which the city suffered so severely. It appears that 
 on that memorable day "the Lord arose and terribly shook the
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 11 
 
 earth." The shock commenced about forty minutes past 9 in the 
 morning, and lasted from five to seven minutes; and so. powerful 
 was the concussion, that it overthrew every church and convent 
 in the city, together with the Royal Palace, and magnificent 
 Opera House adjoining it : in short, not any building of conse- 
 quence escaped. About one-fourth of the dwelling-houses 
 were thrown down, and at a moderate computation 30,000 
 individuals are said to have perished. Between 9 and 10 
 o'clock this morning I stood upon the very sp6t where the 
 earth had opened, and so suddenly engulfed multitudes of 
 men, women, and children; and I perceived some remaining 
 results of that terrible catastrophe. " The Lord is a great 
 God, and a great King above all gods. In his hands are the 
 deep places of the earth ; the strength of the hills is his also." 
 On hearing of this dire calamity, the Rev. Charles Wesley 
 composed two hymns, which are numbered 62 and C3 in the 
 Wesleyan Methodist Hymn Book. 
 
 The day was religiously observed, and all the churches open. 
 I attended several of them. The service of the cathedral was 
 performed by at least fifty priests, and the music was enchant- 
 ing; but everything else, viewed as the worship of God, was 
 most repulsive to my feelings. 
 
 2d. "All Souls' Day;" and masses for the dead were per- 
 formed, especially, as I was told, for those who had been 
 destroyed by the earthquake. All the churches were open, 
 and the people generally attired in black. As ninety-seven 
 years had elapsed since Lisbon was destroyed, I thought the 
 priests would have succeeded in getting the poor sufferers out 
 of purgatory before now ! Perhaps their difficulty has been 
 the want of funds, as I was given to understand that prayers, 
 however numerous and sincere, have little or no effect in the 
 release of souls from the pains of purgatory, unless they be 
 handsomely paid for ! This may account for the importunity 
 with which I was asked for contributions at several churches 
 which I visited. 
 
 In the evening I removed to the Hotel d'ltalie, to join my 
 esteemed friends Mr. and Mrs. Kirk, and found excellent
 
 12 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 accommodation for 4s. 4c?. per day, and the people exceedingly 
 attentive and polite. 
 
 3d. Rambled about the city in search of book-shops, 
 and found several, but most of them were of a very humble 
 character. I met with a few English books and pamphlets, 
 but generally they were of the veriest trash. The works of 
 Walter Scott, and of other English novelists, I found in the 
 Portuguese garb; but the works of no English philosopher or 
 theologian appeared to have met with the same honour ; nor 
 could I meet with a copy of the Scriptures, except an imper- 
 fect one of the Vulgate. " Men love darkness rather than 
 light, because their deeds are evil: neither will they come to 
 the light, lest their deeds should be reproved." 
 
 6th. Visited the residence of the Queen of Portugal. It 
 is certainly very inferior to the palaces of our beloved Queen 
 Victoria. A magnificent palace, however, is being erected on 
 a most delightful spot, commanding a splendid and extensive 
 view; but the low state of the Portuguese exchequer renders 
 its early completion exceedingly doubtful. 
 
 7th. /Sabbath. Our party having had the reading of the 
 Scriptures and prayer every morning and evening at the 
 Hotel d'ltalie, the servants perceived that we were not 
 Romanists, and one of them this morning volunteered some 
 expressions of dislike to the Roman priesthood, declaring that 
 the " priests were both lazy men and gluttons ;" and more 
 than intimated that many of the people had no confidence in 
 either the priests or their religion. 
 
 After breakfast I attended several churches, and in one of 
 them saw high mass performed. A humiliating sight ! The 
 church was attended by the soldiers, four of whom stood on 
 either side of the altar with their muskets; and at the eleva- 
 tion of the Host they presented arms ! Another soldier, on 
 seeing certain gestures of the officiating priest, sounded the 
 bugle, and in a moment all the soldiers fell down upon their 
 knees to worship. I was forciby reminded of the decree of 
 the King of Babylon, which required the people, on hearing 
 "the sound of the cornet, flute, harp, sackbut, psaltery, dul-
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 13 
 
 cimer, and all kinds of music," to " fall down and worship the 
 image that Nebuchadnezzar the King had set up." Nor did I 
 consider the idolatry of the Lisbon soldiers, in prostrating 
 themselves before their " wafer god," less than the idolatry of 
 the Babylonians, when in the plains of Dura they bowed before 
 the golden image of their despotic King. The scene was quite 
 dramatic. The strange antics of the priest, the tinkling of 
 bells, the presenting of arms, and the bobbing down and 
 up of the soldiers on hearing the sound of the bugle, would 
 have excited my risible powers, had not sincere pity for the 
 souls of the deluded kept them in subjection. Popery is very 
 properly designated " the mystery of iniquity." A mystery 
 indeed ! And that any persons of education and intelligence 
 should receive its preposterous dogmas, and submit to its 
 absurd and ridiculous ritual, is undoubtedly one part of that 
 mystery. 
 
 8th. I was greatly shocked to hear that in the afternoon of 
 yesterday many persons were engaged in the cruel and 
 degrading sport t)f bull-fighting. On inquiry, I learned that 
 this was no solitary case; but that the Sabbath was very 
 generally thus profaned, and the brutal practice countenanced 
 by the frequent presence of the Queen and royal family, as also 
 by that of the priests and dignitaries of the church. What 
 is called a good Catholic in Lisbon frequently spends his 
 Sabbath in the following manner : In the morning, he attends 
 mass, and receives the eucharist; in the afternoon, participates 
 in the excitement and mirth of the bull-fight ; and, in the 
 evening, is present at the opera ! A gentleman who volunteered 
 a defence of the cruel sport just named, told me that the 
 animal suffered no wrong, as it was much more glorious to be 
 dressed in ribbons, and die in the ring, than to be ignominiously 
 despatched in the slaughter-shop, without one cheer from the 
 admiring populace ! This gentleman is certainly entitled to 
 some distinction for his originality; as I suppose no being but 
 himself ever conceived such a splendid notion ! 
 
 9th. Visited one of the public gardens, and met with n 
 gentleman, apparently by mere accident, but probably by the
 
 14 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 direction of a gracious Providence. He had travelled exten- 
 sively, and visited many countries. He was very intelligent; 
 and I had not conversed with him long before I perceived he 
 was a God-fearing man. On farther intercourse I ascertained 
 that he was concerned about his soul, and very anxious to 
 meet with some person able to show unto him the way of 
 salvation. I endeavoured to do so, and after about two hours 
 of interesting conversation, I left him, as I believe, in a hopeful 
 state, looking to Jesus alone for eternal life. How remarkable 
 was this meeting ! Many persons were in the garden, but 
 only he spoke to me : and our intercourse was mutually bene- 
 ficial; for whilst he gave me valuable information respecting 
 the countries to which I was bound, I was enabled to supply 
 to him that information relative to spiritual things which he 
 evidently desired much to obtain. In all probability eternity 
 only will fully disclose the design of two strangers thus 
 meeting together in the heart of a popish city, to converse 
 about the " one Mediator," and a sinner's justification " by 
 faith without the deeds of the law." 
 
 I0th. Walked three miles into the country, and was much 
 pleased with the scenery. On my return I was greatly con- 
 cerned to learn that there had been a mutinous outbreak 
 on board the " Melbourne." One of the men, I believe the 
 boatswain's mate, having refused to obey the first officer, was 
 ordered to be arrested and put in irons. He appealed to his 
 " messmates" to resist the order. They did so; and in the 
 scuffle which ensued, one of the seamen was repeatedly stabbed, 
 and soon afterwards died of his wounds. The murderer was 
 placed in irons, and removed to H.M.S. the "Inflexible:" 
 other parties implicated were also arrested. The unfortunate 
 " Melbourne" most assuredly had a bad crew. Intemperance, 
 lying, theft, and cursing, were sins of daily occurrence; and 
 at length the murderer's hand was uplifted, and stained the 
 ill-fated vessel with innocent blood. 
 
 I2th. Mr. S , a first-class passenger, died. His disease, 
 if not generated by the defective sanatory state of the vessel, 
 was greatly aggravated by -it. His wife and two children, who
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 15 
 
 were accompanying him to Australia, were thus unexpectedly 
 left, overwhelmed with sorrow, in a strange land. They had 
 anticipated much enjoyment and wealth in the land of gold, 
 but their expectations were suddenly cut off. " Boast not 
 thyself of to-morrow." 
 
 15th. A deputation arrived from London, to inquire into 
 the state of the " Melbourne," and to make certain changes in 
 her discipline. The Captain and medical officer were both 
 superseded; the latter, it was said, mainly for having violated 
 the regulations of the ship, in expressing his honest opinions 
 to the passengers on her sanatory condition. 
 
 16th. The deputation having requested a meeting of the 
 passengers at the Braganza Hotel this evening, there was a 
 large attendance. I was called to the chair; and the Secretary 
 of the Company, in addressing the passengers, stated his 
 willingness to hear any complaints which they had to make, 
 and his earnest desire to remove, if possible, the cause of their 
 discomfort. Many complaints were therefore made. Com- 
 plaints of the leaky state of the vessel : One person declared 
 that he always had to go to his berth without stockings and 
 shoes; another said he had seen fourteen pails of water taken 
 out of his cabin in a morning, and that in a few minutes it was 
 as full as ever; and another affirmed that one night, some of 
 the geese having got out of their pen, and fallen down the 
 hatchway, he saw them swim past his cabin door ! Com- 
 plaints of the want of ventilation between decks : On this sub- 
 ject the testimony was uniform and irresistible, and some 
 spoke of their health having been seriously affected by it. 
 Complaints of the inattention of the stewards: One respect- 
 able man declared that he had to mop and scrub his own 
 cabin, and make his bed; another, a foreigner, said that when 
 he complained to the steward of inattention, he replied, " dat 
 he was not in de ship to wait upon de passengers, but to play 
 on de fiddle." Complaints of the unsuitableness of the vessel 
 for passengers : One practical man, evidently well acquainted 
 with ship-building, made some very startling statements, and 
 declared that the vessel, after all her " cobbling," was totally
 
 16 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 unfit to encounter a gale; nor was there one person present, 
 save the deputation, who had one good word to say for the 
 "Melbourne." The Secretary replied in admirable temper, 
 and with much courtesy, to all these complaints, but without 
 much effect; and on his refusing to pledge himself that the 
 passage-money should be returned, or that the expenses of 
 the passengers back to London should be met by the Company, 
 the following resolution was unanimously adopted : " This 
 meeting is of opinion that the statements of Mr. Marshall and 
 Captain Henderson have not in any way modified their views 
 of the unfitness of the ' Melbourne ' to convey them to 
 Australia; and they intimate the hope that the Company, or 
 their Secretary, will not perpetrate a farther injustice by 
 forcing on any of the passengers the dreadful alternative of 
 either risking their lives on board a vessel in which they have 
 no confidence, or being cast helpless on a foreign shore, an 
 act which must reflect eternal disgrace upon any Company of 
 Englishmen." 
 
 17th. I found that seven out of thirty-six of the first-class 
 passengers, and a few, of the other classes, had resolved to 
 proceed by the " Melbourne ;" but in no case willingly. Some 
 assigned, as a reason for their conduct, pressing business ; 
 others, the instructions of the firm with which they were con- 
 nected; and several others, their entire want of funds to make 
 any other arrangement. Two passengers called me into their 
 cabin to ask my advice as to their proceeding by the unpopular 
 vessel; and stated that, for the following reasons, they thought 
 of doing so. 1st. The state of their affairs required their being 
 in Australia by the very first opportunity. 2dly. Should any 
 accident befall them, being single men, they had neither wife 
 nor child to lament their fate. Sdly. If the " Melbourne " 
 should really go down, and engulf them in the deep, they had 
 a blessed hope of a glorious immortality, and had no doubt as 
 to their being saved. This statement was only in accordance 
 with their consistent deportment on board ; and I did not feel 
 myself at liberty to dissuade them from their purpose, but 
 simply stated my reason for pursuing a different course.
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 17 
 
 1 8th. On returning from .the post-office this morning, I met 
 the procession of the Host. About forty ecclesiastics were 
 present, and although the rain was pouring down in torrents> 
 they were all uncovered. As the procession moved on, the 
 women on either side of the street, fell down upon their knees, 
 and the old men took off their hats; but the young men 
 generally took refuge in the houses, or suddenly turned aside 
 into some other street or lane, until the Host had passed. I 
 alone met the procession with a firm step and covered head. 
 
 19th. I conversed with several gentlemen as to the pro- 
 priety of a Protestant Missionary being sent to Lisbon; and 
 they expressed a favourable opinion of such an arrangement. 
 They said' that a Missionary, speaking the language of the 
 country, would be gratefully received by many, and would be 
 tolerated by the authorities, on condition that he did not preach 
 blasphemy, oppose the ^jrovernment, nor build a church. 
 . 20th. I had hoped that the Australian Royal Mail Steam 
 Navigation Company would have sent a vessel to Lisbon, to 
 take forward the passengers of the " Melbourne ;" but, that 
 hope being cut off, I went on board the Mail Steamer "Tagus," 
 and sailed for England. Mr. Kirk remained for farther 
 orders. 
 
 23d. We reached Vigo, and were beset by a multitude of 
 Spanish women, who used various methods to induce the pas- 
 sengers to purchase the articles they exhibited for sale; and, 
 in not a few instances, by good address succeeded in practising 
 most shameful imposition. The Bay is capacious and well 
 defended; and the scenery on either side is bold and exceed- 
 ingly imposing. Spain must indeed be a beautiful country, if 
 this part of it be a correct specimen. We took on board a 
 large quantity of eggs and oranges for the English market. 
 
 27th. After a most stormy passage of seven days, we reached 
 Southampton. Truly I had been brought by a way I knew 
 not. The disaster, however, which had befallen me, and the 
 perils to which I had been exposed, though much calculated 
 to test my motives and principles, had not in any degree, I 
 am thankful to say, shaken my determination to proceed in
 
 18 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 the prosecution of that important work to which I had been 
 appointed. I felt I had no reason to complain, but much to 
 be grateful for; and, on a review of the whole, I "thanked 
 God, and took courage." 
 
 29ik. I met the Australian Royal Mail Company's Board 
 of Directors in London, and was happy to be informed that 
 they had agreed to defray the expenses of the " Melbourne's " 
 passengers from Lisbon to London, and to give them the same 
 class of accommodation in the "Adelaide " which they had paid 
 for in the former vessel. This was liberal. Not indeed more 
 than the passengers were in equity entitled to receive, but to 
 which there would have been some difficulty in establishing a 
 legal claim. 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 SAILING of the "Adelaide" Disaster Return to Plymouth Starts 
 again Gale Cabin flooded Ship on fire Canary Isles St. Vincent 
 No coals Character of passengers Crossing the Line Boy drowned 
 Burial at sea St. Helena An execution Visit to Napoleon's tomb 
 Another death Gambling on board Arrival at the Cape. 
 
 AFTER enduring the pain of another parting from those I 
 dearly loved, I embarked at Plymouth, December 19th, on 
 board the " Adelaide," a beautiful iron screw steamer of 1,800 
 tons, and 450 horse power. I was much pleased with her 
 general arrangements, and more than satisfied with my com- 
 fortable little cabin. The Captain and his officers inspired 
 confidence in the passengers, and we fully anticipated a safe, 
 speedy, and pleasant voyage. About 4 o'clock we weighed 
 anchor, and passed the breakwater in gallant stylet Those
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 19 
 
 who had been in the " Melbourne " congratulated each other 
 on their greatly improved circumstances, and spoke with con- 
 fidence as to the future. But how short-sighted is man ! 
 During the night the water broke into the fore part of the ship, 
 and the stream, according to the Captain and others who saw 
 it, " was as large as a man's arm," and as it gushed in with 
 irresistible force, that compartment of the vessel was soon quite 
 filled. Alarming as that accident undoubtedly was, there was 
 something still more so. The ship, from what cause I know 
 not, refused to obey her helm; aud, but for the great skill of 
 the Captain, we might have been driven on a lee-shore. We 
 put back, and reached Plymouth-Sound the following morning 
 at 9 o'clock, thankful for God's preserving care. I held a 
 religious service on board at noon, which was well attended; 
 and in the evening I returned to Plymouth, where I was most 
 heartily received by my valued and hospitable friends, Mr. and 
 Mrs. John Pope. 
 
 25th. "It is an ill wind that blows nobody good." By 
 reason of the accident which had befallen the " Adelaide," I 
 was permitted to enjoy my Christmas in the bosom of my 
 family. Some good people more than intimated that the 
 things which had happened to me should be regarded as evi- 
 dence that I ought not to proceed to Australia. But the path 
 of duty is not always a smooth one ; it is frequently beset with 
 difficulties and dangers. "Jesus constrained his disciples to 
 get into a ship;" and when the evening was come, "the ship 
 was in the midst of the sea, tossed with waves, for the wind 
 was contrary." On another occasion, he said unto them, "Let 
 us pass over unto the -other side;" and we are told "there 
 arose a great storm of wind, and the waves beat into the ship, 
 so that it was now full." In both cases the disciples acted 
 under the direction of their Divine Master, and were never- 
 theless placed in circumstances of discouragement and 
 "jeopardy," but which resulted in their increased confidence 
 in the power and goodness of Him at whose bidding they 
 had launched forth into the deep. St. Paul, too, was thrice 
 shipwrecked, and in other perils by water, when prosecuting
 
 20 
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 the duties of his high mission. I did not, therefore, feel 
 disposed to yield to discouraging suggestions, come from what 
 quarter they might, but to put my unwavering trust in Him 
 
 "Who walked the wave." 
 
 It is but just to say, that no discouraging suggestion pro- 
 ceeded from any member of my own family. 
 
 27th. More letters of sympathy from friends, expressing 
 surprise at my succession of disasters, after so many prayers 
 had been presented to God on my behalf, and intimating that 
 such prayers must have been unavailing. But I was of a very 
 different opinion, and believed that those prayers to a certain 
 extent had been graciously answered. Not, perhaps, answered 
 according to the thoughts of man, but according to the wisdom 
 and goodness of God. I was much inclined to believe that 
 there might have been an answer to prayer' in the very disasters 
 through which I had passed ; for, had not the " Melbourne " 
 met with an accident, the probability is, that on her reaching 
 the tropics her defective sanatory condition would have induced 
 fatal and most extensive disease; but just before we reached 
 that latitude, we were necessitated to steer for Lisbon; and 
 had not the " Adelaide " discovered her weak parts soon after 
 leaving port, it is highly probable that she would have 
 foundered at sea. Besides, I was deeply impressed with the 
 thought that the gracious support and comfort afforded me in 
 the time of peril, must have been vouchsafed in answer to prayer. 
 Nor could I forget that the trying circumstances in which I 
 had been placed had taught me important lessons, which were 
 likely to be very useful in the discharge of my somewhat 
 difficult duties. I did not, therefore, conceive that the time 
 spent in my unsuccessful voyages had been spent entirely in 
 vain; and whilst the people of God continued their intercessions 
 in my behalf, I hoped, by grace assisting me, to be willing to 
 brave any storm, and to face any danger, in the cause of Him 
 who had done so much for me. 
 
 28^. The "Adelaide" was to have recommenced her voyage, 
 but in consequence of her requiring more repairs and altera-
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 21 
 
 tions than anticipated, the time of her sailing was postponed. 
 This brought out more objections to my proceeding on my 
 mission. I knew, however, that no good work had been 
 accomplished without sacrifice; and, as I believed the deputa- 
 tion to Australia was designed to lay the foundation of 
 extensive and permanent good, I never once hoped to fulfil 
 its duties without what men are apt to call " untoward " events. 
 In counting the cost of the undertaking, I put down many 
 more perils than I had yet experienced, and I should have felt 
 ashamed, as a Minister of Christ, had I not been prepared to 
 expose myself to far greater hardships than those which had 
 yet come upon me, in the accomplishment of a work intended 
 to influence a great people, and to benefit generations yet 
 unborn. "He that observeth the wind shall not sow; and he 
 that regardeth the clouds shall not reap." 
 
 January 1st, 1853. The "Adelaide" having been repaired, 
 I was summoned on board, and had to endure another parting 
 scene, to which nothing but a deep conviction of duty could 
 have induced me to submit. I expected to sail about mid-day ; 
 but the wind being strong and unfavourable, the pilot thought 
 it unsafe to leave the harbour. 
 
 2d. Sabbath-day. Being ready to proceed to sea, we 
 expected to sail at 8 o'clock, but just then the Captain entered 
 the saloon and informed us that he and his first officer had 
 both resigned. This unexpected announcement produced 
 great surprise and consternation. A meeting was at once held. 
 I was unanimously called to occupy the chair; but for weighty 
 reasons respectfully declined the honour. Resolutions, however, 
 were passed, declaring that a majority of the passengers would 
 leave the vessel if Captain Jackson did not command her. One 
 of the Directors came on board, and after a little mediation, in 
 which I was happy to take part, a reconciliation was effected, 
 to the joy of the passengers generally. This altercation, how- 
 ever, delayed our sailing another day. 
 
 3d. We left Plymouth this morning on a trial trip, and, 
 after some hours' beating about, returned within the breakwater 
 to land the gentlemen who had been testing the vessel. The
 
 22 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 trial was pronounced highly satisfactory, and about 4 o'clock 
 P.M. we finally proceeded on our voyage. 
 
 8th. On our leaving Plymouth we had to encounter a head 
 wind, which in a few hours increased to a gale ; but as the ship 
 had been pronounced by legitimate authority quite seaworthy, 
 and as the ability of the Captain and officers inspired confi- 
 dence, we had no fear as to the result. The passengers retired 
 to rest, hoping that the elements in a few hours would be more 
 propitious; but in this we were disappointed. About midnight, 
 I was suddenly aroused by the shriek of some one, I think a 
 female, and leaped out of my berth. All was darkness; but I 
 heard a frightful rush of waters, and soon ascertained that the 
 sea had burst into the ladies' saloon, and was rapidly inundating 
 our sleeping apartments. My cabin was ankle-deep, and many 
 others were in similar circumstances. Dead-lights were at 
 once fixed in the saloon, which afforded some defence : other 
 measures were employed, but did not wholly prevent the water 
 from coming in. Our circumstances were undoubtedly those of 
 peril, as well as discomfort ; and fearing that the severe strain- 
 ing and jerking of the vessel might result in something more 
 serious, we anxiously waited for the morning light. The gale, 
 which stove in and carried away one of our life-boats, continued 
 with more or less severity for three days, and most of the 
 cabins were flooded, mainly from the ports, which, if not greatly 
 altered, must always admit a quantity of water in turbulent 
 weather. My cabin being uninhabitable, I was necessitated, 
 for three nights, without undressing, to take refuge in the 
 dining-saloon, amongst other passengers whom the water had 
 also driven from their berths. 
 
 Nor was this the only cause of alarm and disquietude to 
 which the passengers of the " Adelaide" were subjected. On 
 the morning of the 6th instant, about 4 o'clock, the alarm of 
 fire was given ! There was an immediate rush on deck. 
 Spontaneous combustion of the coal was taking place, which 
 filled with smoke the saloon and cabins in the fore part of the 
 ship. The fate of the " Amazon " came with peculiar force to 
 the mind. The night was dark, the tempest high, the sea
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 23 
 
 raging, and it is not marvellous that in such a combination 
 of frightful circumstances some parties should have manifested 
 great alarm. Both fire and water now seemed in league to 
 effect our destruction. It was a solemn moment ! But the 
 Lord was merciful. By prompt and judicious measures the 
 catastrophe so much dreaded was happily prevented ; but as 
 some of the coal was very inflammable, and such as ought 
 never to have been put on board, we had frequent, and greatly 
 aggravated, returns of the alarm ; and it was not until several 
 days had elapsed that the indications of fire entirely dis- 
 appeared. Too much praise cannot be awarded to Captain 
 Jackson for the skill with which he managed the whole of this 
 perilous affair. 
 
 The comic and the tragic are sometimes closely allied, and 
 so it was on the night when the first alarm of fire was given. 
 One man appeared on deck in his night-dress, girt about by 
 his life-preserver, encumbered with dollars, and with an 
 umbrella in his hand. It appears he was afraid that the 
 weight of his cash might sink him, notwithstanding his belt 
 of safety, and therefore took his umbrella to act as a sail, and 
 make him more buoyant ! In the confusion which ensued, he 
 by some means lost a portion of his solitary garment, and 
 appeared in a more pitiable plight than David's ambassadors 
 on their return from Hanun. Another, who in the hurry of 
 the moment had been deprived by a fellow-passenger of a part 
 of his attire, cried aloud for the missing article, exclaiming, 
 " I am prepared to meet death like a Briton, but I wish to die 
 in my own breeches !" 
 
 9th. The blessed /Sabbath; and, as the gale had subsided, 
 we had service in the saloon. The attendance was good, and 
 great interest apparently was excited whilst I endeavoured to 
 expound the words of the disciples, to which they gave utter- 
 ance on their being delivered from the dangers of a stormy 
 voyage. " They said one to another, What manner of man is 
 this, that even the winds and the sea obey him 1" I had some 
 hope that my labour was not in vain in the Lord. 
 
 13th. We passed the Canary Islands, and as we skirted
 
 24 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 Teneriffe, the day being fine, and the atmosphere unusually 
 clear, we saw not only the grape vines on the slopes of the 
 abrupt mountains, and the capital of the island to advantage, 
 but the very summit of the celebrated peak. It was covered 
 with snow, though with us the heat was more than 70. We 
 gazed upon it with intense interest; and as the sun was 
 setting, the whole mountain seemed enveloped in glory, 
 exhibiting now a golden tint of exquisite beauty, then a deep 
 crimson of surpassing brilliancy, and ultimately wrapped itself 
 in a fleecy mantle of many colours. But soon the light faded, 
 the lovely hues melted away, and Nature's pyramid was seen 
 no more. 
 
 lth. This evening the ocean presented a most luminous 
 appearance, and especially in the track of the ship. Amongst 
 the numerous subjects which have long engaged the attention 
 of philosophers, that of the luminous appearance of the sea 
 during the night is highly curious. It would appear from the 
 experiments of many learned men, that the phenomenon is 
 produced by various causes, both jointly and separately. It 
 has been proved by one set of experiments, that the putrefac- 
 tion of animal substances produces light, and scintillations in 
 the sea. A little white fish, placed in water, renders it 
 luminous in the space of twenty-eight hours ; and it is certain 
 that there is in the ocean a quantity of shining insects, or 
 animalcules, which undoubtedly contribute to this phenomenon. 
 Other naturalists ascribe it to the t>ily and greasy substances 
 with which the sea is impregnated; in proof of which, a fish 
 resembling the tunny is cited as being provided with oil which 
 shines with considerable lustre. Other philosophers contend 
 that the phenomenon is caused by small animals, either by 
 their luminous aspect, or by some liquor or effluvium which 
 they emit ; but they do not exclude other causes, and amongst 
 them they mention the spawn of fish as deserving attention. 
 M. Dangelet, in sailing into one of the bays of Madagascar, 
 observed a prodigious quantity of spawn, which covered an 
 extent of sea for more than a mile, and which he at first, on 
 account of its colour, mistook for a bank of sand. The im-
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 25 
 
 mense accumulation of spawn exhaled a disagreeable odour ; 
 and the sea for some days before appeared with uncommon 
 splendour. The same accurate observer, perceiving the sea in 
 the road of the Cape of Good Hope, during a calm, remarkably 
 luminous, observed that the oars of the boats presented a 
 whitish and pearl-like lustre. When he took in his hand the 
 water, which contained phosphorus, he discovered in it, for 
 some minutes, globules of light as large as the head of a pin ; 
 and on pressing them they appeared to his touch like a soft 
 and thin pulp. Some days after, the sea was covered with 
 immense shoals of small fish, in innumerable multitudes. 
 From all these facts, it may be decided that various causes 
 contribute to the light and scintillation of the sea; and that 
 the light which has been exclusively attributed to agitation 
 and friction, differs from that which extends far and near, 
 seeming to cover the whole surface of the ocean, and producing 
 a very beautiful and striking appearance, particularly in the 
 torrid zone. 
 
 \5th. I saw the "stormy-petrel," or, as it is most frequently 
 called, " Mother Carey's chicken." This very interesting bird 
 is seen in most parts of the seas, especially those of the north, 
 west, and south-west of England, where it is the last bird to 
 leave the outward-bound ships, and the first to meet vessels 
 returning home. It plays about the ships, and outstrips their 
 swiftest course ; skimming the surface of the water with equal 
 ease and grace, and tipping so regularly with its wings and 
 feet, that it appears to be running on all-fours. The wings, 
 however, do not get wet, or splash ; and the bird can make 
 way in any direction against a moderate wind, apparently with 
 very little fatigue. 
 
 " She rises often, often drops again, 
 And sports at ease on the tempestuous main." 
 
 17^/i. Yesterday being Sabbath, we had religious service on 
 board. I preached ; but as the passengers were expecting to 
 see land, I fear in many cases the service was submitted to, 
 rather than enjoyed; and in one case there was a painful 
 exhibition of the aversion of the carnal mind to the things of
 
 26 THE 8OT7THEEX WORLD. 
 
 the Spirit of God. "Wherefore is there a price in the 
 hand of a fool to get wisdom, seeing he hath no heart 
 to itP 
 
 We reached St. Vincent, Cape de Verd, early this morning, 
 where I expected to meet Mr. Kirk and family, who had left 
 the " Melbourne," at Lisbon, and proceeded hither by the 
 Brazilian packet, to take the "Adelaide ;" but I found that 
 after waiting 15 days, in most uncomfortable circumstances, 
 and exposed to fatal disease, they concluded that she 
 had either passed on, or met with some accident, and 
 they had therefore returned to England. Nor was this the 
 only disappointment. We had put in for coal, and found none, 
 and were told that we must remain until a supply should 
 arrive from home ! Many of the passengers were indignant at 
 this want of forethought on the part of the Company, and 
 would have left the ship, had there been any other in the port 
 to take them forward. 
 
 18th. This morning I went on shore with the medical 
 officer, and a few of the passengers. The island is moun- 
 tainous, bold, rugged, and exceedingly sterile ; and the town, 
 consisting of a very few houses, principally negro cottages, 
 is, without exception, the most disagreeable and repulsive I 
 ever visited. There is a morass adjoining the town; and I 
 am not surprised that, a short time ago, disease had been 
 generated to such an extent as nearly to depopulate the 
 place. The cemetery is an instructive enclosure, telling of 
 the ravages of fever amongst British and American seamen 
 visiting the port, and of the great uncertainty of life in this 
 insalubrious island. 
 
 IQt/i. Last evening, five of the sailors, being intoxicated, 
 were placed in irons, and created great disturbance. Another 
 man was flogged for unfaithfulness ; and a similar punishment 
 was this morning inflicted upon one of the stewards, for having 
 pilfered a knife. This mode of dealing with a criminal was 
 most abhorrent to my feelings, and the cries of the unhappy 
 sufferer haunted me throughout the day. Discipline must 
 undoubtedly be maintained; but surely that might be effected
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. L 7 
 
 without subjecting a man to the brutalizing process of flogging. 
 It is, in my opinion, an intolerable outrage on board a passenger- 
 ship, especially where there are ladies, and it ought never to 
 be resorted to. Nor is it likely that any man will be the better 
 for being thus degraded and mortified before the ship's 
 company. 
 
 21st No coals having arrived, and Captain H. Thompson, 
 the Agent of the West India Royal Mail Company, with more 
 than 3,000 tons on hand, having refused Captain Jackson's 
 application for a supply, I wrote a respectful letter to him this 
 morning, to which the first-class passengers attached their 
 signatures. He returned a curt reply, refusing the favour 
 solicited, and apparently glad to see us in such a " fix." 
 
 23<f. The return of the Sabbath awakened mingled feelings, 
 as I thought of the religious services of my beloved native 
 land. In the morning I preached in the first saloon, and in 
 the evening in the second. Both services were well attended, 
 but much disturbed; the former by the almost incessant 
 quacking of ducks, crowing of cocks, and cackling of geese ; 
 and the latter by the trampling of feet overhead, and the 
 noisy mirth of some of the sailors, who manifestly were not 
 total abstainers from all intoxicating liquors. For these 
 annoyances the sailors were reproved, and some of the 
 feathered tribe lost their heads. 
 
 One gentleman, who professed much religious proficiency 
 and enjoyment, told me that his conscience would not allow 
 him to attend service where the Church-prayers were read ; 
 and that I must not expect him. Nothing perhaps is more 
 abused than conscience. Some men form an opinion of certain 
 things, and at once drag their conscience into it; and what 
 should be simply a matter of opinion, in which good men 
 may safely differ, is made a matter of conscience; and the 
 weightier matters of brotherly-kindness and charity are entirely 
 neglected. They appear to make a scapegoat of conscience ; 
 for they lay upon it their bigotry, their censoriousness, their 
 eccentricities, their instability, and their rudeness; and thus 
 pervert an important faculty of the soul. On conversing with 
 o 2
 
 28 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 the party in question, I learned that he had once been a 
 Churchman, and subsequently had been amongst the Wesleyans, 
 Baptists, Quakers, and Plymouth Brethren; but that he at 
 length had separated himself from every sect, and for some 
 time had associated with one other person, of similar views, and 
 worshipped God with him! All this, of course, was according 
 to his conscience ! 
 
 24:th. To-day it was found that a passenger had been 
 assuming a false position. On his coming on board he 
 declared himself the nephew of a distinguished nobleman, 
 whose arms he had caused to be engraven on his ring, and also 
 stated that he was extensively acquainted with the aristocracy 
 of England. He likewise said he possessed an estate of 2,000 
 acres, besides other valuable property, which gave him an 
 annual income of 6,000. He farther intimated that his 
 voyage to Australia was merely for the benefit of his health ; 
 and that as he had a pleasure-yacht building at the Isle [of 
 Wight, it was necessary for him to be present at its launching, 
 and therefore he intended to return by the " Adelaide." He 
 made other statements as to his extensive travels, his 
 connection with distinguished clubs, and his magnificent 
 Government offers: and communicated these things with so 
 much gravity and apparent truthfulness, that he became the 
 centre of attraction to many of the passengers, who eagerly 
 gathered around him, not only to do homage to rank and 
 property, but with the expectation, no doubt, of catching some 
 rays from his full-orbed splendour. With great artfulness he 
 contrived to borrow money of several of his admirers, and 
 being, as they supposed, a "sprig of nobility," they evidently 
 felt gratified in rendering him assistance. But, alas for his 
 vanity! a circumstance occurred which took off his mask, and 
 showed him to be nothing more than a young man of extrava- 
 gant habits, and loose principles, going to Australia without 
 patronage, with the view of obtaining some clerkship ! On this 
 disclosure his admirers became indignant, as well they might, 
 and entirely forsook him. His mortification must have been 
 extreme, on finding that in one day the obsequiousness of his
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 29 
 
 companions changed into deep, silent contempt, and that all 
 the passengers, amongst whom he had walked with lordly step, 
 now understood him to be nothing better than a swindler. 
 " He that exalteth himself shall be abased." 
 
 26th. I found much ignorance as well as wickedness 
 amongst the crew. One of the sailors told his companion that 
 he had never been at church or any place of worship for 
 fourteen years. On hearing this statement I expressed my 
 sorrow. He replied, that he was seldom on shore, and, when 
 there, was so fatigued that he went to bed on the Sabbath 
 to sleep; and, when on board, he had no opportunity, being 
 generally working at the time "church was performed." He 
 had complained of this, and was told that it was no use for 
 sailors to attend church, as they had no souls, but only gizzards ! 
 On farther conversation, I found him utterly ignorant of 
 the first principles of religion, indeed, as dark as a pagan; 
 and could not but regret that more was not done to enlighten 
 and reform the comparatively neglected, but generous-hearted 
 sailor, to whom we are so much indebted for many of the 
 comforts of life. 
 
 February 3d. A supply of coal having arrived, we got it 
 on board, and proceeded on our voyage. During our protracted 
 stay of 17^ days at the uninteresting island of St. Vincent, 
 the passengers employed various expedients, as they said, to 
 " kill time. " Some had recourse to shooting, fishing, and 
 leaping; others patronised chess, cards, and dancing; and not 
 a few, appearing to be " children of a larger growth," amused 
 themselves with leap-frog, and similar juvenile sports ! With 
 the exception of an occasional burst of indignation against the 
 Company for having kept us waiting so long without coal, the 
 passengers generally evinced equanimity of temper, and dwelt 
 together in harmony. To the astonishment of all, we left this 
 insalubrious place without one case of sickness amongst the 
 passengers; and I hope we acknowledged the good providence 
 of God, which had so mercifully preserved us. 
 
 4:th. One of the petty officers having been reproved for 
 swearing, promptly replied, " Words is but wind ; but actions
 
 30 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 is the frame of man." Nor could he be persuaded that there 
 was any sin in a sailor's swearing, especially when he held the 
 responsible office of boatswain on board the "Adelaide," where, 
 as he said, he had to do with "lazy, lying, thieving, drunken 
 blackguards." " A broadside or two of oaths," he added, " is 
 far better than fine words, and makes the villains all in a 
 swither. They then does their duty as if the very old one 
 was after them." On further conversation with this man, I 
 found that he thought himself a Christian, and entertained a 
 hope of heaven ! 
 
 IQth. This morning we crossed the " line," and several 
 attempts were made to impose upon the less informed of the 
 passengers. One gentleman got a few of them to look through 
 his telescope, across the glass of which he had placed a hair, 
 and it was said succeeded in making some believe that they 
 saw the line "very distinctly!" Another person was induced 
 to believe that the line was a large reef, stretching across the 
 globe, separating the two hemispheres, and that it was possible 
 the ship, being large, might strike upon it. Great attention 
 was therefore kept up, and he declared, very gravely, that he 
 thought he felt the vessel jerk, as she touched the reef in 
 passing over from one hemisphere to the other ! This impo- 
 sition upon the ignorant was said to be " rich fun." 
 
 Neptune had prepared his razor and shaving-brush, but was 
 not allowed to appear on board; the Captain absolutely for- 
 bidding the barbarous custom, which had occasionally been 
 attended with disastrous results. The sailors were evidently 
 mortified; but as the passengers made a subscription, to be 
 given to them at the termination of their voyage, good feeling 
 was at once restored. 
 
 About 2 o'clock a youth fell overboard. A life-buoy was 
 immediately thrown to him, but he was unable to reach it. 
 A boat was lowered with much despatch, and, as the men 
 pulled with great energy, it was hoped he might be saved. It 
 was a time of fearful suspense. For a few minutes hope and 
 fear alternated. One cried, "He is saved!" Another cried, "He 
 has sunk ! " The truth, however, was soon made manifest. Just
 
 THE SOUTHERN WOELD. 31 
 
 as the boat reached the place where he had been floating, it is 
 believed a shark drew him under water, and he sank to rise no 
 more. On inquiry, I learned that he was an only son, and had 
 come to sea in direct opposition to the will of his parents. 
 For a short time the occurrence cast a gloom over the crew 
 but that soon passed away, and the jollity and mirth in the 
 forecastle showed but too affectingly how little impression the 
 sudden death of the unhappy youth had made upon them. 
 " that they were wise, that they understood this, that they 
 would consider their latter end ! " 
 
 llth. We saw a great many flying fishes, one of which flew 
 on board; and after it had been closely inspected, our medical 
 officer thought of preserving it, as a fine specimen : but, most 
 unfortunately, a lady expressed a desire for it; and gallantry, 
 triumphing over science, consigned the beautiful creature to 
 the frying-pan, but not without some involuntary muscular 
 contortions, amounting to something very much like grimace, 
 on the part of our scientific doctor. 
 
 12th. The Polar-star sunk below the horizon, and the 
 Southern Cross appeared. " The three great stars which form 
 the cross, one at the top, one at the left arm, and one which 
 is the chief star, called Alpha, at the foot, are so placed as to 
 suggest the idea of a crucifix, even without the help of a small 
 star which completes the horizontal beam. When on the 
 meridian it stands nearly upright, and as it sets we observe 
 it lean over to the westward. I am not sure whether, upon 
 the whole, this is not more striking than its gradually becom- 
 ing more and more erect as it rises from the east." I gazed 
 upon the beautiful constellation for some hours, and indulged 
 in those meditations it was so calculated to suggest. 
 
 There is on the part of Rome a disposition to impress 
 sacred names upon various things. The principle which this 
 involves is good of itself, but the practice, as in the case of the 
 Pharisees, with their broad phylacteries, may degenerate into 
 mere form and ostentation. Christianity requires that its 
 recipients be not ashamed of its doctrines, precepts, or blessings, 
 but confess them before men; and the disciples of the church
 
 32 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 of Rome, as in the instance of the Southern Cross, have given 
 to places and things names to express their faith, and to 
 indicate their religious veneration. Such relics of Romanism 
 appear in the heavens above, and in the earth beneath; and 
 are more or less imprinted on different branches of science, and 
 found in the geography and history of every land. It will be 
 in vain, however, for men thus to say "Lord, Lord !" unless 
 they " do the things which He commands." 
 
 IStk. One of our boiler-makers died. He had been unwell 
 before leaving England, and on the night when the ship was 
 on fire he took a severe cold, which resulted in a galloping 
 consumption. I repeatedly visited him ; but as he could not 
 read, and had lived in the entire neglect of worship, I found 
 him extremely ignorant of spiritual things. He however 
 acknowledged himself a great sinner, and was anxious to know 
 the way of salvation. I endeavoured to supply the desired 
 information; and this morning, while I was commending his 
 soul to God, he passed away into the invisible world. His last 
 expressions were those of sorrow for his sins. In the evening 
 his funeral took place. The corpse, being sewed up in a 
 hammock, was brought to the lee-gangway, where it was 
 placed on a plank, and covered with the Union Jack. The 
 ship's bell tolled with impressive solemnity, the vessel was 
 arrested in her progress, and the crew and passengers drew 
 near to witness the affecting sight. The sun had just sunk 
 below the horizon, fringing the clouds with fading light of 
 every hue, and giving to the heavens the impress of beauty 
 and serenity. The evening was calm, and the troubled ocean 
 appeared to rest. The usual form of burial at sea was adopted ; 
 and when I read, " We therefore commit his body to the deep," 
 a sudden splash in the water produced a powerful thrill in 
 many a heart. The body at once disappeared, to await the 
 sound of the last trump, when the sea shall give up the dead 
 that are in it. No sooner had I pronounced the benediction, 
 then the Captain cried "Go ahead!" Ahead we went, and 
 every man returned to his post of duty as if nothing had 
 occurred. . I commenced a subscription amongst the passengers
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 33 
 
 for the benefit of the newly-made widow, and her three help- 
 less children; and, to the credit of the parties applied to, the 
 sum of 50 was speedily realized, which the crew subsequently 
 augmented to .63, and the whole amount was placed in the 
 hands of the Captain, to be forwarded from the Cape to the 
 poor bereaved ones. 
 
 IQtk. To-day at noon we were in lat. 10 20' South, and 
 long. 2 18' East, the Captain having steered for the African 
 coast, to avoid the strength of the South-East trade wind; 
 but it was found that our coal was not sufficient to take us to 
 the Cape. We therefore altered our course, and steered for 
 St. Helena. This was prudent, especially as we were depend- 
 ant upon fuel, not only for progress, but for the supply of fresh- 
 water by means of condensed steam. By taking so much 
 merchandize on board, the Directors of the Company proved 
 themselves to be " penny-wise and pound-foolish." Had they 
 not done so, but left sufficient space for fuel, the delay and 
 expense at St. Vincent, and St. Helena, might have been 
 avoided, and ample fuel taken in at Plymouth to have carried 
 us to the Cape. The passengers evinced much disappointment 
 at this further interruption of their already protracted voyage ; 
 and when, with the view of moderating the ebullition of feeling, 
 Moses and Job were referred to as patterns worthy of imitation 
 in seasons of trial, it was replied, that those gentlemen had 
 never been passengers in the ship of any Australian Royal 
 Mail Steam Navigation Company, or probably we should never 
 have heard of the meekness of the one, or of the patience of 
 the other. 
 
 21st. Yesterday we arrived at St. Helena, after having 
 been for a long time beating about to find the island. This 
 perplexity, it was said, arose from the variation of the compass, 
 which was occasioned by the vessel being of iron. 
 
 Jamestown, the capital, contains a population of about 
 2,500 persons, and is beautifully situated between two abrupt 
 mountains. The island, which has been in the uninterrupted 
 possession of the English since 1G73, is 28 miles in cir- 
 cumference, and 1,200 miles from the nearest land. More 
 
 c5
 
 34 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 than 1,000 vessels, principally home-bound from India and 
 China, visit this island annually. 
 
 22d. This morning I left the ship very early, in company 
 with our medical officer and purser, to make a tour of the 
 island. On reaching the public Square of the town, we saw 
 preparations made for an execution, and a crowd of people 
 already assembled. As we could not for some time obtain a 
 conveyance, I consented to witness the melancholy scene, not 
 to gratify any morbid curiosity, but to mark its effect upon 
 the assembled multitude. The culprit, who was a negro, had 
 in a fit of jealousy murdered his fellow-servant, and buried the 
 body of his helpless victim in a deep ravine. The gallows was 
 erected close to the church, and at half-past 7 o'clock the 
 unhappy criminal, with unfaltering step, appeared on the 
 scaffold. The officiating Clergyman began his painful duty 
 with manifest emotion; and as he proceeded, the unfeeling 
 hangman adjusted the rope, and drew the cap over the face of 
 the wretched man, most improperly diverting his attention 
 from the last religious service in which he could engage on 
 earth. The Clergyman stated that the criminal about to suffer 
 had confessed his guilt, and acknowledged the justness of his 
 punishment ; and whilst he was yet speaking the drop fell, and 
 the murderer was ushered into the presence of his Maker. In 
 consequence, however, of the blundering manner in which the 
 hangman performed his part in the tragic scene, the death- 
 struggle was fearfully protracted. The crowd betrayed no 
 emotion, good or bad, but gazed upon the affecting spectacle 
 with apparent indifference. 
 
 Having at length succeeded in obtaining a suitable convey- 
 ance, we started in the direction of "Plantation-House," the 
 residence of the Governor; and after travelling over a rough 
 road and barren country, we reached that lovely and salubrious 
 place, and beheld the produce of the temperate zone* beauti- 
 fully blended with that of the tropics. The oak associated 
 with the date, the fir with the banana, and even the bramble 
 with the yam and the plantain. From thence we proceeded 
 to Sandy-Bay, where hill and dale, wood and water, sterility
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 35 
 
 and fruitfulness, geology and botany, grandeur and beauty, 
 confusion and order, nature and art, marvellously unite in 
 producing one of the most magnificent landscapes on which 
 the eye can rest. It is to the traveller as the kaleidoscope, 
 presenting at every turn new combinations of beauty. Our 
 next point of attraction was Napoleon's tomb. On our way 
 thither we halted to take some refreshment under the shadow 
 of a craggy mountain. Amongst other topics which engaged 
 our conversation, was the removal of Napoleon's remains to 
 Paris, by the French. The purser, a most remarkable specimen 
 of human nature, both physically and mentally, said he did not 
 approve of the tomb being deprived of its legitimate tenant. 
 He was not particular about the manner of a man's burial. He 
 might be put into the earth, and a prayer said over him ; or he 
 might be thrown overboard into the sea, and nothing more said 
 than, "There, old fellow, success to you;" but that when the 
 thing was once done, it should remain so, and neither land nor 
 sea be robbed of its right, to please anybody. The grotesque 
 figure which the purser presented as he sprawled upon the 
 greensward, together with the very grave and apparently 
 religious utterance of this extraordinary sentiment, so worked 
 upon the risible powers of the doctor, whose perception of the 
 ludicrous was exceedingly keen, that he completely lost his 
 equilibrium, and, yielding to the law of gravitation, literally 
 rolled into the ditch. After my companions had fully recovered 
 themselves, we resumed our journey; and passing through 
 scenes of majestic wildness, and encountering sundry perils, we 
 reached the valley, to which the footsteps of many a stranger 
 have been directed. The tomb has been accurately described 
 by various travellers, and truthfully represented by artistic 
 skill. It is still protected by iron rails, but is quite open. We 
 descended into it by means of several wooden steps, and stood 
 upon the identical place where for nineteen years the mortal 
 remains of Napoleon had reposed. It is now a source of 
 revenue, being rented for a considerable sum per annum. The 
 old negress who was there to receive the usual fee of Is. Gd. 
 from every visitor, and to communicate various items of informa-
 
 36 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 tion, with sundry embellishments, relative to the illustrious dead, 
 told us that a short time ago a party of French came to the 
 island, and on going down into the tomb wept very much, but 
 after coming out of it gave three hearty cheers, and drank to 
 the memory of the Emperor: a correct specimen this of the 
 French character. We each took a sprig of the weeping willow, 
 drank of the waters of the adjoining well, and then directed 
 our course to Longwood, where the hero of so many battles had 
 fallen before the last enemy. The house, for the sight of which 
 we each had to pay the regular fee of 2s., we found' occupied 
 as a part of the outbuildings of the farm, and in a most 
 dilapidated state. In the dining-room we met with a winnowing 
 machine, and an accumulation of rubbish. The library had 
 been converted into a granary, in which was a quantity of 
 barley; and in the once spacious and beautiful bed-room we 
 found several horses! The very place in the drawing-room 
 where the vanquished of Waterloo had breathed his last was 
 distinctly pointed out ; and a stone in the wall nearest his head 
 at that solemn moment, had, in accordance with the Popish 
 tendency to preserve relics, been dug out by a Frenchman, and 
 taken to Paris. This room, so sacred to Frenchmen, was found 
 to be occupied as a barn ; and, until very lately, a machine for 
 cutting food for cattle had stood on the very spot around 
 which many a knee had bent in devotion, and many a tear 
 had been shed in sorrow, as the mighty struggled in the grasp 
 of death. I looked upon the place with solemn feeling, and 
 was forcibly reminded that " the glory of man is as the flower 
 of the field." The walls, covered with various effusions, bear 
 testimony to the deep indignation with which Frenchmen have 
 beheld this to them shameful desecration. Surely the feel- 
 ings of a great nation should have been more respected. I 
 was told that lately two Frenchmen visited Longwood, and on 
 witnessing the state of the house became frantic, and most 
 unmercifully beat the poor man who was conducting them 
 through its different apartments. By the politeness of the 
 tenant we were shown over the new mansion built for the 
 residence of Napoleon. It is indeed a magnificent structure,
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 37 
 
 which cost about ,100,000, and contains fifty-four rooms; but 
 Providence decreed that he should never inhabit it, but become 
 the tenant of a very different house, even that which is 
 appointed for all living. The residence of Napoleon at St. 
 Helena, though rendered as comfortable as the circumstances 
 of the case would admit, must nevertheless have been to his 
 ambitious mind little better than a living martyrdom. He 
 was undoubtedly a great warrior, but long ere this he has 
 learned that there is a greatness surpassing that of slaying men, 
 and a glory more substantial and enduring than that of depos- 
 ing Kings, and giving away crowns and sceptres. As I thought 
 of this scourge of the nations, in connection with what I had 
 witnessed during the day, the words of the Prophet, uttered 
 in relation to another warrior, were brought to my mind with 
 peculiar force: "Is this the man that made the earth to 
 tremble, that did shake the kingdoms, that made the world a 
 wilderness, and destroyed the cities thereof, that opened not 
 the houses of the prisoners? All the Kings of the nations, 
 even all of them, lie in glory every one in his own house. But 
 thou art cast out of thy grave. Thou shall not be joined with 
 them in burial." 
 
 23d. I preached in Jamestown to a good congregation. 
 It appears that a local-preacher, about seven years ago, arrived 
 in this place, and began to preach. The word was with power, 
 and a church was formed, of which he became the pastor. 
 He preaches the Wesleyan doctrine, and uses the Wesleyan 
 Hymn Book, but administers baptism by immersion; and in 
 church ofder is an Ind!J)endent. The church, I was in- 
 formed, consisted of 150 members, and was on the increase; 
 and I learned that its pastor had, on a visit to America, col- 
 lected at least 1,500 for the purpose of building two chapels 
 in the island. 
 
 25tk. Yesterday one of our second-class passengers died. 
 He had taken cold, which brought on inflammation, and termi- 
 nated in erysipelas and death. I visited him, but generally he 
 was delirious. His funeral took place this morning, and I was 
 not a little shocked on beholding the corpse being lowered on
 
 38 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 the one side of the ship, to be conveyed to the tomb, while a 
 party of passengers were descending on the other, full of jollity 
 and mirth, to attend the races ! One of them asked me if I did 
 not intend going to the race-course. I replied, that I humbly 
 hoped I was already on a better course than that of which he 
 spoke, running "the race set before us, looking unto Jesus the 
 Author and Finisher of our faith ;" and that I wished the solemn 
 scene on the other side of the ship might convince him of 
 the necessity of immediately joining me. He looked em- 
 barrassed, and said no more. 
 
 27th. In the morning I went to the Episcopal church, and 
 enjoyed the privilege of receiving the Sacrament. In the 
 evening I preached for the Nonconformists, and had a very 
 numerous attendance. In connection with this comparatively 
 newly-formed church, I learned that there were four Sabbath- 
 schools and two day-schools, besides four local-preachers, who 
 visit on the Lord's-day several country places. 
 
 March 5th. After having taken on board 340 tons of 
 wood, and 90 tons of coal kindly furnished by II. M. steamer 
 " Polyphemus," we left St. Helena this evening without regret. 
 During our stay in the port many of the passengers complained 
 of exorbitant charges and imposition, on the part of the inha- 
 bitants, and I believe not without sufficient cause. I had but 
 four business transactions on shore, and I was sorry to find in 
 every case a want of honourable dealing. In the first, glaring 
 ex iou was attempted; in the second, contemptible meanness 
 was cw. ; ;3*i the third, deceitful art was employed; and in 
 the fourth, "unmitigated fraud was practised. I left with the 
 hope, however, that the conduct of the persons alluded to 
 formed the exception, rather than the rule, of St. Helena's 
 dealings with a stranger. 
 
 10<A. When a person embarks in a passenger-ship for 
 Australia, he ought to be prepared for various annoyances, and 
 to exercise that charity which " is not easily provoked." Being 
 thrown amongst strangers of various principles and tendencies, 
 with whom he must more or less associate for several weeks, it 
 will be necessary for him to act and speak with great caution,
 
 THE SOUTHERN WOULD. 39 
 
 if he would accomplish his voyage in peace. If a religious 
 man, he must be firm without being dogmatical, kind and 
 conciliatory without being unfaithful Many things may occur 
 very painful to his mind, which he cannot prevent, and must 
 therefore endure. This was the case on board the " Adelaide." 
 Amongst the passengers we had almost every shade of charac- 
 ter, and every phase of politics and religion; and although 
 some of them were truly excellent persons, and all of them 
 treated me with the greatest courtesy, yet the spirit and prac- 
 tice of gambling which prevailed, in spite of all remonstrance, 
 greatly distressed me. At the commencement of our voyage, 
 with some diffidence cards were introduced in the evening; 
 but soon afterwards they appeared in the afternoon, and subse- 
 quently in the morning : so that our beautiful saloon, morning, 
 noon, and night, was converted into a noisy gambling-room. The 
 contagion rapidly spread; and betting became fearfully prevalent 
 amongst persons of all ages, from the youth of sixteen to the 
 man of hoary hairs. Nor was the betting confined simply to card- 
 playing, but it extended to every thing on which it appeared 
 possible to make a bet. We had amongst us a few gentlemanly 
 and interesting young men, who by well-studied arts were 
 gradually drawn into the fearful vortex, where, amidst the 
 whirl of its appalling eddies, they lost much more than silver 
 and gold. This unhappy state of things originated mainly, if 
 not exclusively, with one man. He was gentlemanly, respect- 
 ably connected, and apparently had made himself a thorough 
 master of the art of gambling, but could talk about very little 
 else. Cards, betting, and horse -racing formed the topics of 
 his every-day's conversation, and the "Racing Calendar" the 
 chief subject of his reading. When he failed to obtain any 
 one to join him in a game of cards, or to engage in some bet, 
 he was evidently miserable, and had recourse to various forms 
 of artifice to accomplish his design. By the blandness of his 
 manners, and his well-adapted flattery, he was but too suc- 
 cessful in ensnaring victims. " One sinner," saith Solomon, 
 " destroyeth much good," and the good the party in question 
 destroyed on board the " Adelaide" will greatly enhance his
 
 40 THE SOUTHERN WOULD. 
 
 guilt; and, if mercy interpose not, may possibly result in 
 ruined characters and lost souls. What I saw on board the 
 " Adelaide" strongly impressed me in favour of the plan of 
 Christian emigration ships, in which the ordinances of religion 
 are daily observed, and every unchristian practice strictly pro- 
 hibited. To expose an inexperienced young man to such 
 influence as existed on board our ship, may generate a taste 
 for gambling, sap the foundation of his principles, and end in 
 his utter destruction. It is but just to remark that our 
 Captain and officers did not encourage the evil complained of, 
 either by their presence or example. 
 
 21st. After a tedious voyage of 16 days from St. Helena, 
 and 77 days from our finally leaving Plymouth, we reached the 
 Cape, and about 1 o'clock P.M. anchored in Table-Bay. The 
 "Adelaide," according to official announcement, was to have 
 made her passage to the Cape with unparalleled speed, but she 
 signally failed in the attempt. During the previous twelve 
 months, the following steamers had arrived from England, viz. : 
 The "Formoso," in 37 days; the " Queen of the South," in 
 32; the "Chusan," in 40; the " Sarah Sands," and the "Aus- 
 tralian," in 44; the "Cleopatra," in 48; the "Great Britain,", 
 in 50; the "Sydney," in 54; and even the "Melbourne," after 
 all her extraordinary movements and mishaps, in 73 : but the 
 " Adelaide," the model screw-steamer the special object of 
 public attention the ship of royal name, and on royal service, 
 was not able to accomplish her voyage in less than 77 days ! 
 Let justice, however, be done to the vessel. She had been 
 but 47 days at sea, the rest having been spent at St. Vincent 
 and St. Helena. One day, when we had a fair wind and full 
 steam power, she made 268 miles; and her average speed, 
 according to the log, was about 160 miles per day. Her speed, 
 however, would have been greater had not the inflammable 
 state of the coal at one period, and its scantiness at another, 
 prevented the application of full steam power. The " Adelaide" 
 required at least 50 tons of coal per day, to give her adequate 
 steam; and had she left Plymouth with a sufficient quantity 
 of good coal to supply her to the Cape, 1 believe, as to speed, 
 she would have made a satisfactory voyage.
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 41 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 CAPE-TOWN Visit to Constantia Duel prevented School anniver- 
 sary Departure Gale Another death Alarm of fire Albatross 
 Fearful gale Passengers assist at the pumps Religious views Uncle 
 Tom's Cabin An evening party Land in sight Arrival in Australia. 
 
 CAPE-TOWN is built along the shores of Table-Bay, on a plain 
 which rises with an easy, and subsequently toilsome ascent, to 
 the summit of the far-famed Table-Mountain, and is laid out 
 with great regularity, parallel streets intersecting each other 
 at right angles. The castle, situated on the left of the town 
 as you enter from the bay, is a strong fortification, commanding 
 the whole anchorage, and capable, I judge, of successful resist- 
 ance when complete in its appointments. The public buildings, 
 for the transaction of the affairs of the Government, are all 
 adjoining what are called the Government-Gardens. In these 
 gardens, through which is a public walk overshadowed by 
 splendid oaks, and farther cooled in summer by running 
 streams, is Government-House; besides a College for public 
 education, a Pauper Asylum, and an Infant-school. The Com- 
 mercial-Hall, situated in the Grand Parade, is a noble building, 
 devoted to various purposes. Its centre room is of spacious 
 dimensions. Here abundance of newspapers, of every political 
 creed, are seen on the table; and visitors, without charge, are 
 permitted to examine them, a privilege of which I most 
 thankfully availed myself. The Public Library adjoining, and 
 open to all, does honour to the Cape community, as well as to the 
 Indian visitors, who compose a branch of its supporters. It is 
 enriched with many of the choicest works of every age and 
 nation, and contains about 30,000 volumes. The church build- 
 ings are of varied character, and some of them spacious and 
 handsome. The Reformed Church, it is said, will contain 2,000 
 persons; St. George's Episcopal Church, 1,000; the Lutheran 
 Church, 1,600; and St. Andrew's Scotch Church, 500. There
 
 42 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 are two very neat Wesleyan Chapels, in which the Gospel is 
 preached both in English and Dutch. The one is in Berg- 
 street, and will contain 600 hearers; the other, in Sydney- 
 street, which during the week is used for a day-school, will 
 accommodate 300 persons. There is likewise an Independent 
 Chapel, besides the Mariners' Church, and the South African 
 Mission Chapel. To each of these chapels and churches a 
 Sunday-school is attached, for the instruction of all classes of 
 the community. 
 
 In this interesting and beautiful town I landed with consider- 
 able emotion, it being my first visit to the African continent. 
 The moment I stepped on shore I had evidence that Wesleyans 
 in Africa were of the same spirit and tendency as Wesleyans in 
 England. On my return from Lisbon, after a disastrous voyage 
 in the " Melbourne," I hastened to visit my family in the west 
 of Cornwall; but, before I could do so, I had to converse with 
 a deputation that waited for me at the railway terminus, to 
 engage my services for a Missionary Meeting; and on my 
 reaching Africa, a deputation was also waiting for me on the 
 pier, to request my advocacy in behalf of the Wesleyan Sunday- 
 schools. A Wesleyan Minister is expected always to be ready 
 for every good work ; and, if he would consult his own comfort, 
 he will endeavour to be so. I acceded to the request, and 
 directed my steps to the Mission-House, where I met with the 
 most hearty reception ; and, as many fears had been entertained 
 of the safety of the " Adelaide," my arrival was doubtless 
 regarded with more interest and with deeper feeling than it 
 would have been had I reached Cape-Town at the time- 
 appointed. 
 
 In the evening I sallied forth, in company with the Rev. E. 
 Edwards, to visit the gardens. The heat had passed away, and 
 in every street and corner were happy-looking parties enjoying 
 their evening airing. Here was a party so truly English, that 
 one might have fancied they had just returned from a ride in 
 Hyde-Park; and there a group of gabbling Malays, with their 
 dark faces, and fiery eyes peeping from under enormous 
 funnel-shaped hats as they shufiled past. In one direction
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 43 
 
 was seen the diminutive and waddling Hottentot, returning 
 from his labour, with a bunch of grapes and a large water- 
 melon ; and in another, gentlemen on horseback, with blue and 
 green veils, which they had used as a defence against the sun 
 and dust, but which were now, with considerable taste, folded 
 about their hats. 
 
 March 22d. After a comfortable night's repose, I rose early 
 in the morning, and walked through the town. I had often 
 heard of the African waggons, and now had the privilege of 
 seeing several of them just starting for the interior. They were 
 drawn by from twelve to twenty oxen, with their long-spreading 
 horns, and guided by their Hottentot driver, who was stationed 
 at the head of his waggon, where, by means of a tremendous 
 whip, he made them submissive to his will. When occasion 
 required, he employed this fearful instrument with such telling 
 effect as to produce on the side of the ox long thick weals. 
 By means of this whip, the Hottentot steers his long train of 
 oxen over mountains and fearful passes, cracking it right and 
 left, and hurrying them over the loose and sinking sands of the 
 desert at full gallop with as much precision as he would guide 
 a pair of them with reins. 
 
 I visited the market, which was well supplied with produce 
 of every description, generally at prices considerably below those 
 obtained in England. The scene was novel; and the congre- 
 gated groups of men and women of all colours and climes would 
 have afforded a subject worthy of the painter's pencil and the 
 poet's pen. After a delightful ramble, I returned to breakfast, 
 and about 10 o'clock started with the Rev. W. Moister for 
 Rondebosch, a village about three miles from Cape-Town. I 
 found the environs of the town beautiful and picturesque. 
 Extensive orchards, vineyards, nurseries, gardens, fields bloom- 
 ing with heaths and other wild flowers, met the eye in every 
 direction; while from some points the prospect of the town, 
 the bay with its shipping, the opposite shore, comprising the 
 granary of the colony, and the distant mountains, here 
 standing majestically in the foreground, and there receding in 
 the distance, did not fail to produce pleasurable feelings. On
 
 44 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 reaching Rondebosch, I found myself amidst groves and vine- 
 yards of exquisite beauty, far surpassing all the boasted charms 
 and gaiety of town life. Here I was delighted to meet with 
 the Rev. Barnabas Shaw and his excellent wife, to whom South 
 Africa is inconceivably indebted for long, faithful, vigorous, and 
 successful Missionary exertions, beyond, as well as within, the 
 bounds of the colony; and whose names, in connection with the 
 triumphs of grace and civilization in Africa, will be honoured 
 by generations yet unborn, and kept in everlasting remem- 
 brance. The Wesleyan Chapel is neat, becoming, and attrac- 
 tive. Both English and Dutch attend it, and are privileged 
 to hear in their respective tongues the wonderful works of 
 God. In the evening, a Wesleyan, from Cornwall, called upon 
 me'; and as I had recently been labouring in that county, the 
 interview was interesting to us both. 
 
 23d. This morning, the Rev. B. Ridsdale, of Wynberg, very 
 kindly drove me to Constantia so celebrated for its wine. On 
 our way thither we called at Wynberg prison, to visit Seyolo, 
 the African Chief, who during the recent war had acted with 
 great treachery and cruelty. Not only had he violated 
 promises, and betrayed confidence reposed in him by the 
 English, but had, in the prosecution of a savage warfare, roasted 
 alive several Englishmen who had fallen into his hands. He 
 stands upwards of six feet, is well made, and, from his smiling 
 and open countenance, no person would have judged him 
 capable of perpetrating the barbarous acts with which he was 
 charged. The war having just terminated, we found him very 
 anxious to be released from prison, and restored to his own 
 people. We left him in the prison-yard, reclining on a mattress, 
 in the sun, adorning his wife with gaudy ear-rings, and placing 
 on her head a turban of naming colours. In speaking of the 
 Caffre war, I asked Mr. Ridsdale if it were true, as reported, 
 that no member of the Wesleyan church had joined the rebels 
 against the Government, and he assured me that it was. 
 Subsequently I inquired of other parties, and received a similar 
 reply. I felt thankful for this testimony. It did not, however, 
 surprise me, for the same spirit of loyalty has pervaded the
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 4o 
 
 Wesleyans from the first, both at home and abroad. Some of 
 them have occasionally been placed in circumstances of great 
 trial, and been treated with unmerited contumely, even by the 
 guardians of the law ; but their loyalty has never faltered. In 
 the West Indies, during seasons of secret conspiracy and public 
 revolt, the Wesleyans in those islands were severely and repeat- 
 edly tested ; and although some of them were bitterly persecuted, 
 and had to endure accumulated grievances, heaped upon them 
 under the authority of law, yet in no case were they ever found 
 in the ranks of rebellion; and, although a few of the negroes 
 of that Christian body were suspected during the Jamaica 
 insurrection, and placed in confinement, yet in no instance 
 could any charge of disloyalty be proved against them. Having 
 been industriously taught to " fear God, and honour the King," 
 in seasons of extensive and dangerous excitement they 
 remained steadfast to the established Government, to the 
 confusion of their enemies, and to the joy of those who were 
 over them in the Lord. 
 
 On leaving Wynberg, we soon found ourselves amidst shrubs 
 and flowers in all their wild luxuriance. Here the proud 
 ornaments of our English greenhouses were 
 
 born to blush unseen, 
 
 And waste their fragrance on the desert air." 
 
 The graceful silver tree, abundantly interspersed throughout 
 the wild landscape, glittering in the sun, gave to it a rich and 
 novel aspect. But this, like every earthly scene, however 
 beautiful, had its drawback ; for, whilst admiring its loveliness, 
 a serpent glided across our path, powerfully reminding me of 
 the serpent's obtrusion into the Garden of Eden, and the dire 
 consequences which immediately followed. The " enmity" of 
 man to every form of the serpent's seed was instantly aroused, 
 and deprived the loathsome reptile of its life. We reached 
 " High Constantia" about 1 1 o'clock, and were politely received 
 by the proprietor. His mansion we found very tasteful, and 
 possessing the various peculiarities of European comfort. In 
 the wine vaults, through which we were conducted, we met 
 with several passengers from the " Adelaide," and saw enormous
 
 46 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 butts, with polished oak ribs, kept in the cleanest style. We 
 were requested to taste the wine, which much resembled a 
 delicious cordial. Near the establishment we saw a beautiful 
 and extensive vineyard. The vines were no higher than goose- 
 berry bushes, being kept at that height for convenience as well 
 as for the sake of improving the grape. We were told that 
 the soil gave to the fruit, and consequently to the wine, its 
 peculiar and very delicious flavour, which in a great degree 
 was lost when the vine was removed to another situation. I 
 could not be at this place without thinking of the absent, and 
 making a small purchase of the cordial to be forwarded to 
 England, in hope that it might by God's blessing cheer and 
 strengthen a delicate one, most deservedly dear to me. We 
 were very kindly escorted to see the garden, containing a rich 
 variety of English and African plants. In the summer-house 
 were specimens, in plaster-of-Paris, of nearly all the tribes of 
 Africa, arrayed in their respective costumes, some of which 
 were grotesque enough. In leaving the garden, a large 
 African oak attracted our attention, in the centre of whose 
 branches, to which we ascended by steps, we found a platform 
 or room, with a table and seats, where a dozen persons at least 
 might take tea together. The acorns of this tree are more 
 than twice the size of English acorns, a few of which I gathered 
 with a view of planting them in another, and, to me, more 
 attractive land. 
 
 Much gratified with our visit, we returned to W^nberg. 
 This "sweet Auburn" of South Africa, as it is called, is richly 
 studded with handsome abodes and rustic cottages. Here the 
 Indian visitors generally reside, and breathe the life-giving and 
 health-restoring properties of the " caller air." The walks and 
 rides about Wynberg are magnificent. The spirit is invigorated 
 by the scenery; the rich deep woods, the splendid avenues of 
 majestic trees, the matchless mountains, the limpid streams, 
 and the abounding fertility of the smiling landscape, with the 
 calm of evening spread over the whole, combine to furnish a 
 picture of exquisite beauty. 
 
 Here is a most beautiful chapel, liberally presented to the
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 47 
 
 Wesleyan body by Maynard, Esq. In the evening, after 
 taking tea with a party of friends from Cape-Town and 
 elsewhere, I called upon that gentleman, to acknowledge his 
 liberality, and afterwards attended the Anniversary Meeting 
 of the Sabbath-school which was held in the chapel. Omnibus 
 carriages run between this place and Cape-Town at various 
 hours of the day, and, as the natural result, the population of 
 Wynberg and its neighbourhood was greatly increasing. 
 
 24:th. On returning to town this morning, I learned with 
 deep regret that two of our first-class passengers had been 
 quarrelling; and that the one had sent a "challenge" to the 
 other : but, happily, before any hostile meeting could take place 
 the magistrates were informed of the case, and the .parties 
 forthwith brought to the police court, and bound over to 
 keep the peace. This arrangement I understand greatly 
 relieved the party challenging, as he thereby saved his body 
 from being perforated, and also, what he called his " honour" 
 from being sullied. Honour indeed ! A murderer in intention, 
 if not in act, to talk of honour ! Whence this perversion of 
 language? When will men cease to settle disputes by this 
 wicked, barbarous, and insane method? "Be not overcome of 
 evil, but overcome evil with good." This is the scriptural mode 
 of dealing with an insult, and undoubtedly the most efficient. 
 It destroys an enemy without taking away his life, and even 
 converts him into a friend. Nor is there anything mean in 
 this, for he that ruleth his own spirit is greater than he that 
 taketh a city. 
 
 During the day many persons called upon me. Some had 
 formerly been under my pastoral care in London, and others 
 in Cornwall. The interview was therefore gratifying to all 
 parties. 
 
 25th. Good Friday. It was the anniversary of the 
 Wesleyan Sunday-schools in Cape-Town, and the children 
 assembled in the afternoon in Berg-street Chapel. 500 were 
 present, comprising English, Dutch, Malays, Hottentots, and 
 others. Prejudice arising from colour or station had no place 
 here, but yielded to the spirit and precepts of the Gospel,
 
 48 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 which forbid distinction in the house of God; and the interesting 
 assembly, first in English and then in Dutch, united in singing 
 with thrilling effect their enchanting Hosannas to the Son of 
 David. After being satisfactorily examined by the Rev. W. 
 Moister, they were addressed by the Rev. R. Ridgill, in Dutch, 
 and by myself in English. At the conclusion of the service 
 they walked in procession through the town, and conducted 
 themselves with much propriety. I observed upwards of twenty 
 men, many of them aged, bringing up the rear; and on inquiry 
 ascertained that they too were Sunday-scholars, who were 
 making encouraging progress in learning to read the Word of 
 God. On our arrival at Sydney-street Chapel, we found tea 
 provided. The children speaking English, of whatever colour 
 or tribe, were accommodated in the chapel, and those speaking 
 Dutch, in a large tent which had been erected with great taste, 
 on the skirts of Table-Mountain, and was exceedingly pictu- 
 resque. Its interior was exquisitely decorated with green 
 branches and lovely flowers, formed into numerous and beau- 
 tiful festoons, from which hung grapes, apples, pears, afld other 
 fruits, in rich profusion, to be plucked by the children after 
 they had taken tea. Every countenance was illuminated, and 
 although some were "black," yet on this festive occasion all 
 were "comely." In the evening I preached in Berg-street Chapel 
 to a large and respectable congregation, and after service bid 
 farewell to my Cape friends, aiid went on board the " Adelaide." 
 I greatly enjoyed my visit to the Cape, and had the pleasure 
 of meeting with nearly all our Missionaries stationed in the 
 colony. 
 
 The Cape of Good Hope colony, originally founded by the 
 Dutch in 1652, was in the year 1795 captured by the British 
 arms under Sir James Craig. In 1802 it was restored to the 
 Dutch at the peace of Amiens, and again taken by the British, 
 under Sir Edward Baird, in 1 806. By a subsequent treaty, in 
 1815, it was finally ceded to Great Britain by the King of the 
 Netherlands. The Cape of Good Hope, considered in its 
 political, commercial, and military relations, is undoubtedly 
 deserving of great consideration. " It is," observes the author
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 49 
 
 of the History of the British Colonies, " to a maritime power, 
 like England, a jewel beyond price." And the Duke of Wel- 
 lington said that, " as a depot for the maintenance of a military 
 force in India, the Cape is invaluable; and as a naval station 
 I look upon it to be still more important." But there is 
 another, and much more important aspect, under which it ought 
 to be viewed. It furnishes easy access to multitudes of pagans, 
 to whom Great Britain ought to extend the blessings of the 
 Gospel, and thus become the instrument of Africa's regeneration. 
 Providence has not given the Cape of Good Hope to a nation 
 pre-eminently possessing the Gospel of Christ, any more than 
 it has bestowed upon her other colonies in connection with 
 heathen tribes, for merely commercial or military achievements, 
 but for a more glorious object; and if she be unfaithful in the 
 execution of her mission of mercy, her glory will doubtless 
 depart, and she may, as the punishment of her ingratitude and 
 unfaithfulness, yet become the basest of kingdoms. 
 
 27th. Sabbath. Early in the morning of yesterday, we left 
 Table-Bay, and to-day, on doubling the Cape, we had a strong 
 breeze and heavy sea, which prevented our holding public 
 service. This was a great disappointment. 
 
 28th. A heavy gale. Most of the cabins were flooded, and, 
 towards evening, we shipped a large sea, which stove in one of 
 our life-boats, and carried away the door of the engine-room. 
 Had the gale continued, the probability is that the decks 
 would have been swept, and the safety of the ship fearfully 
 jeopardized. 
 
 April 1st. This evening a ball of fire, of a bluish colour, was 
 seen flickering about the masthead, for more than an hour, 
 which the sailors regarded as the presage of approaching evil. 
 The atmosphere, at the time, was greatly charged with elec- 
 tricity, and in the course of the night we had much thunder 
 and lightning. 
 
 3d. Sabbath, and service on board. The day was very 
 eventful. At 3 o'clock one of the passengers in the second- 
 class died ; and as the nature of his disease required the speedy 
 removal of his Temains from the ship, his funeral took place at 
 
 D
 
 50 THE SOUTHERN WOULD. 
 
 half-past 6 o'clock. The usual form of burial at sea was 
 adopted, and the impressiveness of the scene was much en- 
 hanced by the deep shadows of the evening, and the ocean's 
 melancholy sound. Birds of prey had for some time followed 
 us, and were now hovering around the ship. The moment 
 the body was committed to the deep, a tremendous wave, with 
 its whitened crest, broke against the vessel, engulfed the corpse, 
 and, as it " lifted up its voice on high," it said, in fearful, 
 hollow, and thrilling accents, "The prey is mine!" A solemn 
 impression was obviously made upon the spectators, and for a 
 short period serious remarks followed. But in many cases that 
 impression was evanescent; for, in the course of an hour, some 
 parties in the saloon were "betting" as to the time we should 
 reach Australia. On hearing this conversation, I walked up to 
 the offending parties, and said, " Gentlemen, I am sure that no 
 one present will be displeased by my reminding him that this 
 is the evening of the Sabbath." The reproof was well received, 
 and the evil at once arrested in its progress. About 8 o'clock 
 there was an alarm of fire ! The coal-sacks had, through some 
 carelessness, become ignited, and had not the fire been at once 
 discovered, the result would in all probability have been much 
 more serious. As it was, the fears of some were painfully 
 excited, and the hopes of others as to the " Adelaide" safely 
 reaching her destination all but entirely cut off. 
 
 8th. To-day one of the passengers caught an albatross, and 
 on its being brought on deck it excited much interest. It was 
 considerably larger than a goose, and measured 10| feet between 
 the tips of its wings. Its awkward efforts at pedestrianism 
 were truly ludicrous, its legs not being at all adequate to its 
 support, and indeed incapable of keeping it erect more than 
 half a minute at a time. Its beak, some six inches long, 
 grooved so that one mandible fitted into the other d, la 
 guillotine, proved no mean weapon of defence, as some of the 
 spectators painfully felt. Its wings were dark brown, its 
 body beautifully white, feet lightish blue, and beak delicately 
 yellow, with a hard hook at the end. Our medical officer took 
 its skin, and prepared it for stuffing. These birds are the
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 51 
 
 largest of the marine species, and probably never visit land but 
 in breeding-time. Their flight is most graceful and rapid; 
 but they seldom move their wings, and sail within a point of 
 the wind. 
 
 9$. A dreadful gale came on during the night, and the 
 vessel could not be kept in her course, as she would steer only 
 before the wind. The rolling was tremendous; and the over- 
 turning of boxes, the crash of glass and earthenware, the 
 howling of the tempest, .and the quivering of the ship as the 
 large seas struck her, together with the deep darkness of the 
 night, furnished sufficient material to excite solemn feeling in 
 the most foolhardy. It being impossible to sleep, most of 
 the passengers left their berths, and repaired on deck, where 
 the awful grandeur of the scene was such as no language can 
 describe. Few persons on board had any confidence in the 
 vessel. In doubling the Cape she had become so leaky that 
 it was necessary for the passengers to assist at the pumps. 
 This they readily did. I offered my service, but it was most 
 respectfully declined. It required some hours' hard pumping 
 every day by the passengers fo keep the water under. This 
 state of things rendered' the gale much more alarming, as it 
 was feared the leaks might so increase by the fearful jerking 
 and straining of the vessel as to defy the most vigorous exer- 
 tions to keep her afloat. But in wrath the Lord remembered 
 mercy. The gale abated during the day, and that which we 
 feared was graciously prevented. " that men would praise 
 the Lord for his goodness, and for his wonderful works to the 
 children of men !" 
 
 10th. Blessed Sabbath ! The usual religious service was held 
 in the saloon. There being a large swell from the recent gale, 
 it was hazardous to stand; but, by keeping firmly hold of an 
 iron pillar, I was able to preach with freedom, though many of 
 my hearers frequently shifted their position, and had some 
 difficulty in retaining anything like a becoming attitude. In 
 the evening a gentleman, who professed to be " high-church," 
 and who had during the whole voyage seized every opportunity 
 of avowing Puseyitish notions, began to eulogise the Roman
 
 52 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 Catholic religion, and declared that it could be most satisfac- 
 torily traced back to the Apostolic age. I replied, that he 
 was perfectly right in what he said in relation to the antiquity 
 of Romanism, as it could no doubt be traced to the days of 
 the Apostles, being distinctly alluded to by the sacred writers. 
 This elicited a most complacent smile, and some laudatory 
 remark. I then observed, that Romanism was unquestionably 
 that " mystery of iniquity" which the Apostle said did "already 
 work," and was variously developing, itself. In his day there 
 was a "voluntary humility, and worshipping of angels;" by 
 some " the word of God was adulterated, and handled de- 
 ceitfully;" others sought to "make gain of godliness, teaching 
 things which they ought not, for filthy lucre's sake;" others 
 encouraged a vain observance of festivals, a foolish " distinction 
 of meats," a " neglect of the body," " traditions," and " doctrines 
 of men;" and others " loved to have the pre-eminence." These 
 things, I remarked, constituted the elements of that corruption 
 of Gospel truth, or, to speak in the strong but just language 
 of English Protestant law, they formed the elements of that 
 " damnable heresy" which the Apostle denounced in the 
 strongest terms, elements which were subsequently developed 
 in the papacy. Romanism could, doubtlessly, be traced to 
 Apostolic times, not to the saving truths, but to the de- 
 structive heresies of those times. On hearing this unexpected 
 statement, my "high-church" friend said, with peculiar emphasis, 
 and certainly with more zeal than knowledge, " If you should 
 even convince me that I have formed an erroneous opinion, I 
 will not give it up : I am determined to adhere to it !" Of 
 course argument was now at an end. 
 
 \2th. High-church again. The decision on the " Gorham 
 case" being severely condemned, and a high eulogium passed 
 upon the Bishop of Exeter, the question of baptismal regener- 
 ation very naturally became the topic of conversation. The 
 advocate of high-church principles contended that baptismal 
 regeneration, which the Church undoubtedly taught, was 
 better and much safer than what was called conversion. Be- 
 sides, the instantaneous conversion which some people talked
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 53 
 
 about was absurd. He had heard parties say they could tell 
 the very day when they were converted, which was truly 
 shocking, if not blasphemous. On hearing this, it was observed 
 that a scriptural conversion was a change of nature, of the 
 very same character which he said took place in baptism ; and, 
 if he were regenerated in baptism, as he professed to be, a 
 simple reference to the church register-book would inform us 
 of the very day when that change was effected; and so far 
 from the knowledge of the fact shocking his feelings, he 
 evidently referred to it with complacency, and did not care if 
 the whole parish should know it. [A solemn pause.] Recover- 
 ing himself a little, he introduced another topic; and stated 
 that the Clergyman of Plymouth, who had been enjoining 
 auricular confession, was a very pious man, and had been shame- 
 fully persecuted in the discharge of his duty, as confession was 
 undoubtedly a scriptural thing; and he referred to James, as 
 his authority. This elicited a remark, to the effect that the 
 passage he had quoted was addressed to " the Twelve tribes 
 scattered abroad," and enjoined the mutual confession of 
 Christian brethren. James said, " Confess your faults one to 
 another, and pray one for another that ye may be healed." No 
 mention was made of any " Father-confessor," or any Priestly 
 absolution, but simply the mutual confession of Christian 
 brethren. [A heavy frown ! ] In a few minutes he tried 
 another subject, and evidently entered upon it with consider- 
 able zest. He said he loved the Church, because it inculcated 
 good, wholesome, moral duties, and did not, like some, teach 
 men to look for spiritual manifestations, commonly called 
 experience, and sanctification, and other things of the same 
 fanatical nature. In answer to this it was said, the enunciation of 
 such sentiments by him was truly astonishing, seeing that when 
 he went to church he constantly asked for those very things 
 he now reprobated as fanatical, when he prayed, " Cleanse the 
 thoughts of our hearts by the inspiration of thy Holy Spirit, 
 that we may perfectly love thee and worthily magnify thy 
 name;" for that prayer included spiritual manifestation expe- 
 rience and sanctification in its highest form. [A deep groan,
 
 54 THE SOUTHERN WOULD. 
 
 followed by a nervous attempt to whistle.] Not yet satisfied 
 with his efforts, he introduced another topic. He said that 
 the Scriptures were undoubtedly good, as far as they went, but 
 they' required the light of tradition to make them clear and 
 perfect, and he was glad that a party in the English church 
 had been raised up to give tradition its proper place. In reply 
 to this undisguised popery, it was not only stated that the law 
 had been made of none effect by tradition, and that it was 
 sinful either to add to or take away from the word of God, 
 but that no dependence could be placed on the correctness of 
 tradition. That this was evident from the manner in which 
 our Lord's words respecting a disciple had in a few years 
 been corrupted : " Then went this saying .abroad among the 
 brethren, that that disciple should not die : yet Jesus said not 
 unto him he shall not die; but, if I will that he tarry till I 
 come, what is that to thee?" Here tradition, in a few years, and 
 amongst brethren, completely altered the sense of our Lord's 
 words : and no marvel that it has done so in other matters, 
 in the course of centuries, and amongst parties whose love of 
 truth was certainly not greater than that of the brethren 
 referred to. His only reply to this was a most emphatic hem ! 
 He now left the saloon to have " a mouthful of fresh air." 
 
 I3th. To-day we were in latitude 44 26' South, and longi- 
 tude 80 45' East; and the wind being from the south, the 
 weather was so cold that the passengers were obliged to have 
 recourse to their winter clothing. The ocean's swell was truly 
 terrific, but a most interesting sight to all who could look 
 upon it without fear. " The sea is His, and He made it." 
 Never before had I seen such beauty in that passage as was 
 now presented to the mind. 
 
 Ifah. " Uncle Tom's Cabin " having been read by nearly 
 every pasenger in the saloon, it became the subject of very 
 general remark. Some simply approved of the book ; others 
 enthusiastically admired it; whilst others condemned it in the 
 strongest terms. This originated a lively discussion on the 
 subject of slavery, manifestly disagreeable to an American 
 citizen who was present; for when it was said that Negroes in
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 55 
 
 a state of slavery had no motive to work, he replied with con- 
 siderable warmth, " Then I would put a motive into them." 
 This allusion was too obvious to be mistaken, and roused so 
 much of the English spirit that America came in for a most 
 tremendous castigation. The scriptural aspect of the question 
 of slavery being alluded to, my opinion was asked on the sub- 
 ject. I replied, that when Christianity was introduced into the 
 world it found a large portion of its inhabitants in a state of 
 slavery, and it did not abrogate the practice, or directly inter- 
 fere with it, because it gave no plans of civil government, nor 
 systems of political regulation, but taught men duties suitable 
 to the circumstances in which it found them. It taught all men 
 justice, mercy, brotherly kindness, and charity, and left those 
 great principles gradually to work that melioration in the civil 
 states and relations of society in which all would be interested. 
 Just in proportion as those great principles had been acknow- 
 ledged and acted upon in any community or nation, slavery 
 had disappeared. The Gospel, in its spirit and tendency, 
 antagonized every form of injustice and oppression, and would 
 ultimately melt or break the fetters from every hapless cap- 
 tive. This it would undoubtedly effect ere long, even in 
 America, in spite of the raging passion and Lynch-law of the 
 Southern States of that great country. The feet of the 
 American citizen, which had been, during the conversation, on 
 a level with his head, were now suddenly brought from their 
 elevated position, and employed with much despatch in con- 
 veying his person out of the saloon. 
 
 \lth. The return of the Sabbath was very grateful, and 
 the attendance on the public service very encouraging ; but 
 no sooner had I pronounced the benediction than, as usual, 
 worldly affairs were introduced. "Out of the abundance of the 
 heart the mouth speaketh," and therefore sheep-runs, gold- 
 fields, provision prices, and realised fortunes became the topics 
 of conversation. I endeavoured to check this by referring to 
 other and more suitable subjects, when one gentleman said 
 that, in his opinion, true religion consisted in the exercise of a 
 real catholic spirit ; another said, that he had been educated in
 
 56 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 the belief that doing good to the poor was the true essence of 
 religion; whilst a third declared that it was to be attentive to 
 the forms of the Church; and, as for his part, when alone in 
 the wilds of Australia, on the Sabbath-day, he always read the 
 Church-service; and although he did occasionally utter an oath, 
 and use what might be called profane language, his heart was 
 all right, and he thought he stood as good a chance of getting 
 to heaven as the most of men. " The natural man receiveth 
 not the things of the Spirit of God : neither can he know them, 
 because they are spiritually discerned." 
 
 20th. At a party this evening in the saloon, several "toasts 
 were drank," a few remarkable phases of worldly character 
 developed, and some very comic scenes witnessed. The vessel 
 rolled tremendously, which not only upset decanters, glasses, 
 and stools, but so unceremoniously interfered with the person 
 of one of the speakers, as to throw him into the most grotesque 
 and harlequin attitudes. His eloquence, too, was sadly marred 
 by some crying out, " Hold on, old fellow !" others exclaiming, 
 "Well done, old boy; begin again!" He did so, and as his 
 words, at intervals, were prematurely jerked out in clusters 
 by the wayward motions of the uncourteous vessel, the scene 
 became one of the most ludicrous that ever entered the con- 
 ception of even a Cruikshank. 
 
 24:th. Sabbath. Early in the morning we " sighted land." 
 The effect was most remarkable. Many of the passengers had 
 hardly hoped, after their various causes of alarm and anxiety, 
 ever to see Australia; and now that it was just below the lee- 
 bow, they yielded to a gush of joyous feeling, and appeared like 
 as many children leaving school for their holidays. Haggard 
 countenances were lighted up, and became radiant with joy; 
 the lame and lazy appeared on deck, moving about with the 
 greatest agility, and arrayed in their best attire; mutual con- 
 gratulations were exchanged, and hands ardently locked in each 
 other which had never previously come in contact. Mothers 
 caressed their babies with increased ardour, and in their ecstasy 
 held them up to see the golden land. Some evinced boisterous 
 excitement, and sundry hysterical phases ; others silently gazed
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 57 
 
 with tears in their eyes, as they thought of the wide waste of 
 waters which rolled between them and beloved ones; and others, 
 filled with gratitude to Him who sitteth above the water-floods, 
 audibly blessed the name of the Lord. To one gentleman I 
 observed, that before he placed his foot upon his adopted 
 country I would refer him to a passage of Scripture by which 
 I hoped he would regulate his conduct. It was this : " Trust 
 in the Lord, and do good ; so shalt thou dwell in the land, and 
 verily thou shalt be fed." He expressed his obligation for my 
 kindness at that important moment, wrote the text in his 
 pocket-book, and said, by the grace of God he would attend 
 to it. To another, who had left a good position in England, 
 with the view of speedily realising a large fortune, I observed, 
 that before he stepped upon the land of gold it would be well 
 for him o put down in his note-book a certain text of Scrip- 
 ture, and allow it to influence him in all his future proceedings. 
 The passage was this : " They that will be rich fall into temp- 
 tation and a snare." He manifestly felt the keen point of 
 Divine truth, and quailed under it ; but, nevertheless, said he 
 was obliged for the kind interest I took in his affairs. To 
 another, whose worldly character had appeared very prominently 
 during the voyage, I preferred a request,' that before he entered 
 upon the acquisition of Australian gold, he would solemnly 
 consider our Lord's momentous question, "What shall it profit 
 a man, if he shall gain the whole world and lose his own 
 soul?" and to think of that question every day, that it might 
 exert its due weight and influence upon him. He appeared to 
 feel the force of what I said, and gracefully bowed, but made 
 no reply. 
 
 We entered King George's Sound, a most capacious and 
 beautiful harbour, and came to anchor about 10 o'clock. The 
 confusion on board, necessarily connected with the arrival of a 
 Mail steamer, prevented our having the usual morning service 
 in the saloon ; but, on my application to the Captain, he readily 
 permitted it to be held in the evening. The attendance, how- 
 ever, was not large; but the season I trust was one of profit, 
 whilst I endeavoured to impress upon the passengers the im- 
 
 D5
 
 58 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 portance of exalting Christ among the heathen, and of doing 
 everything in his name, and for his glory, in the land which 
 the Lord their God was about to give them. 
 
 During the voyage, chiefly through the Christian kindness 
 
 of Mrs. and Miss C , two most discreet and interesting 
 
 Scotch ladies, I had been able frequently on the week-evenings 
 to hold a religious service in the ladies' saloon, which several 
 persons gratefully attended. 
 
 CHAPTEK IY. 
 
 AUSTRALIA Swan-River Aborigines Funeral in the wilderness 
 Departure Kangaroo- Island Arrival in South Australia Visit to 
 Adelaide Departure Hobson's Bay Arrival in Melbourne Visit to 
 St. Kelda Brighton, and Geelong Departure Squatters and Diggers 
 Arrival in Sydney. 
 
 * " AUSTRALIA is an island of extraordinary magnitude, forming 
 the chief of- a group lying off the southern coast of Asia, and 
 collectively termed Australasia. Next to the great continents 
 composing the four quarters of the globe, it is the largest mass 
 of land of which we have any acquaintance." Its length from 
 east to west is 2,227 miles, and its breadth from north to south 
 1,680 miles. Its area is estimated at 2,690,810 square miles, 
 and the coast line at nearly 8,000 nautical miles. It lies 
 between 9 and 38 of South latitude; and 112 and 153 East 
 longitude. This island continent was discovered by the Dutch, 
 in 1616, and from them it received the name of New Holknd, 
 which is now generally disused. " The Dutch having done little 
 more than merely point out the island, it was afterwards visited 
 and more carefully examined by several English navigators,
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 59 
 
 and, among those, by the celebrated Captain Cook, who 
 bestowed upon its eastern coast the name of New South Wales. 
 Its distance from Great Britain is 16,000 miles, by ship's 
 course. It has a few islands near its shores ; and one of larger 
 dimensions on the south, called Tasmania, or Van Diemen's 
 Land, from which it is separated by a, channel named Bass's 
 Strait." 
 
 Australia contains four British colonies New South Wales, 
 Victoria, South Australia, and Western Australia. King 
 George's Sound is in the latter colony, which, according to 
 Martin, contains an area of 1,000,000 square miles, or more 
 than eight times the size of the United Kingdom of England, 
 Wales, Scotland, and Ireland. Perth, its capital, situated near 
 Swan River, is 300 miles distant from King George's Sound. 
 This colony was begun in 1829, and the first settlers were sub- 
 jected to many hardships. They were landed on the beach, in 
 mid-winter, in the neighbourhood of a bare limestone rock; and 
 the country around was devoid of agricultural or pastoral capa- 
 bilities, but filled with hostile savages. " Several ships were 
 dashed to pieces on the beach, which was crowded with masses of 
 human beings, families with infant children, ladies, civil officers, 
 sailors, soldiers, and farmers; while blood and cart horses, milch- 
 cows, prize bulls, sheep, goats, poultry, pigs, pianofortes, ploughs, 
 mills, barouches, casks, furniture, bedding, tools, and seed-corn 
 lay heaped together, drenched with torrents of rain. The con- 
 fusion was complete : the leaders of the enterprise were equally 
 at a loss with the settlers to know what to do or advise. Some 
 demanded to be led to their lands for which they had agreed; 
 others gave way to despair : servants attacked the spirit-casks, 
 and masters followed their example." Such was the unpro- 
 pitious commencement of ^he colony of Western Australia, or, 
 as it is sometimes called, Swan-River; and although it has not 
 made the same rapid progress as the other Australian colonies, 
 having only 5,000 white population, it nevertheless contains 
 the elements of great wealth, and is no doubt destined to 
 become a prosperous and mighty country. Its climate is of 
 acknowledged salubrity, and is not subject to the droughts
 
 60 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 which prevail on the eastern coast : and though its soil is 
 various, and some of it very poor, the colony, nevertheless, 
 contains large tracts of rich land, which would yield good crops 
 of grain ; and the vine, olive, and tobacco thrive luxuriantly 
 where cultivated. Its forests, filled with valuable woods, are 
 inexhaustible. " There is a forest of the jarrah, or mahogany, 
 at a distance of 18 miles from Perth, and 20 from the sea, 
 extending over a tract of at least 300 miles from north to 
 south, with a known width of 30 miles from east to west. 
 The trees are very fine; and it has been computed that this 
 forest alone contains sufficient of this invaluable timber to 
 build so many line-of-battle ships, reckoning the largest amount 
 of timber ever required for a ship as the average, that 20,000 
 navies equal to all those of Europe, might be constructed from 
 this single forest." Valuable sandal-wood also abounds, which 
 is being exported to China, with great advantage. Its 
 minerals are supposed to be very abundant and valuable. Iron 
 abounds, and copper, silver, lead, and coal of excellent quality 
 have recently been found. Other sources of wealth will no 
 doubt be discovered as the colony progresses; and its prox- 
 imity to India and China will tell favourably upon its com- 
 mercial interests. 
 
 26th. Went on shore, and the moment I stepped on the 
 beach a native solicited alms. He made several gesticulations, 
 and then, pointing to his mouth to indicate that he was hungry, 
 said, " White money." Formerly the natives preferred " brown 
 money," because it was larger ; but now, understanding its 
 relative value, they always at first ask for white money. Soon 
 afterwards I met five other natives, all females, and most in- 
 veterate beggars. When one said, " You be good man," and 
 then asked for " white money," which she further described by 
 saying " Sixpence," I stated that I had no sixpence; but she 
 evidently did not believe me, and persisted in asking for 
 sixpence. I then said, " You call me a good man ; and a good 
 man does not lie." "Good man not lie!" said another, who 
 spoke English pretty well ; " but if good man have no sixpence, 
 good man have bigger white money!" This I admitted, but
 
 THE SOUTHERN WOULD. 61 
 
 said I did not think it right to give them any big white 
 money, as I was afraid they would spend it in rum. They were 
 clad in kangaroo skins, and covered with filth. Some of them 
 were besmeared with grease and red clay; and others streaked 
 with some white substance on their faces and other parts of 
 their bodies, giving them a most revolting and even hideous 
 appearance. They had probably never been washed ! The 
 odour arising from them was such that, though my olfactory 
 nerves were not very acute, I found it necessary for my own 
 comfort to keep well to the windward. I had never previously 
 seen such degraded and loathsome specimens of human nature ; 
 and yet they are redeemed, and the Word and the Spirit can 
 cause even such dry bones to live. 
 
 Albany, the name of the town, consists of straggling houses, 
 built without order, very near the beach; and it is said to 
 contain about 300 inhabitants. Finding that the people were 
 without a Minister of any kind, the Archdeacon, who is the 
 Incumbent, having been from home three months, I preached 
 to them in the evening, and hope that my labour was not in 
 vain in the Lord. During the day I walked some miles into 
 the country. The land is not rich, nor suitable for grazing; 
 but much of it might nevertheless be rendered productive, if 
 properly tilled. I found an extraordinary variety of beautiful 
 heaths and ferns; numberless wild-flowers of exquisite loveli- 
 ness; and the gum and grass trees scattered through the 
 wilderness in great profusion. A party from the " Adelaide " 
 penetrated the forest for many miles, in hope of meeting with 
 the kangaroo, but did not succeed; and in the evening returned, 
 bringing with them a large number of parrots, paroquets, and 
 other birds of splendid plumage, which they had wantonly 
 shot. I could see a legitimate reason for shooting birds, 
 should they be required for food, be destructive to property, 
 or should the naturalist need them for the promotion of 
 science; but I could see nothing but wanton cruelty in that 
 destruction of so many beautiful birds which was this day 
 effected. 
 
 Yesterday one of our second-class passengers, a young
 
 62 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 man from Scotland, died suddenly. I saw him a short time 
 before his death, and found him much alarmed about his soul. 
 After explaining to him the way of salvation, and commending 
 his soul to God in prayer, I left him in great agony, apparently 
 penitent for his sins, and looking for salvation through the 
 atonement of our Lord Jesus Christ. This afternoon his 
 remains were interred in the wilderness. Several of the pas- 
 sengers were present on the occasion; and whilst I officiated, 
 the peculiar calmness of the day, the wildness of the scene 
 around, and the stillness of the desert, only broken by the 
 accents of my voice, rendered the season exceedingly im- 
 pressive. "In the midst of -life we are in death." In the 
 evening I again preached to the people on shore, and had a 
 much larger attendance than that of the previous evening. On 
 returning to the ship, I heard the frogs in concert, and could 
 not have conceived such creatures capable of emitting so 
 many loud, musical, and even harmonious sounds, had I not 
 been permitted to hear them. 
 
 28th. This morning I received from shore an anonymous 
 note, enclosing two sovereigns, to be applied to the Mission- 
 ary cause. It appears that the heart of the writer had been 
 graciously moved by the sermon of the previous evening, and 
 this was one of the results. In the afternoon we left for 
 Adelaide. 
 
 30tk. In passing to-day through the great Australian 
 bight, I was forcibly reminded of the Bay of Biscay, and 
 thought it likely to be as greatly dreaded in turbulent weather 
 as that boisterous sea undoubtedly is. The rolling of the 
 vessel was terrific. 
 
 May 4th. We passed Althorp Island on the left, and 
 Kangaroo Island on the right, as we entered the Gulf St. 
 Vincent. The latter island received its name from the number 
 of kangaroos found upon it at the time of its discovery by 
 Flinders, who, with his party, in a single day killed thirty-one ; 
 and a deserter from a ship, who had been on the island twenty 
 years, informed Mr. Leigh that so numerous were they at the 
 period of his arrival, that himself and another deserter, with
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 63 
 
 the aid of two dogs, killed 800 of these beautiful animals in 
 one month. At noon we came to anchor off Port Adelaide, 
 and had some difficulty in getting on shore. Only two boats 
 came to the ship, and each passenger had to pay ten shillings 
 for the privilege of being landed. Nor did the boatmen 
 appear to care whether or not we availed ourselves of their 
 services. 
 
 5th. This morning, with the exception of four men, all our 
 sailors refused to work, and wished to leave the ship; their 
 alleged cause being the leaky state of the vessel, but their 
 real cause, doubtless, the attractions of the gold-fields. The 
 Captain reasoned with them, and offered to double their wages, 
 but in vain. He then had the ringleaders taken before the 
 Magistrate, who sent them to prison, to be kept at hard-labour 
 thirty days. The others, being assured that they should 
 receive their discharge at Sydney, with but one exception 
 returned to their duty. By this untoward event a whole day 
 was lost. 
 
 I went on shore, and was met by the Rev. Messrs. Draper 
 and Hull, who gave me a most hearty welcome. We imme- 
 diately started for Adelaide, seven miles distant, and I was 
 much pleased with my ride on the top of an omnibus. The 
 road from Port Adelaide to the city is macadamized, and quite 
 level, but is soon to be superseded by a railway : the land on 
 either side is generally rich, and, when properly cultivated, 
 must yield an abundant increase. On entering Adelaide, we 
 found the city in a state of great excitement, the result of a 
 contested election for a member of the Legislative Council. 
 Two candidates of opposite political principles were in the 
 field; and the great question influencing the electors was, the 
 State support of religion. One of the candidates was favourable 
 to that support, the other was directly opposed to it; and, after 
 a fierce contest, in which banners were torn to shreds, and 
 many electioneering tricks practised, the former candidate was 
 returned by a large majority. 
 
 In the evening I preached in Pirie-street Wesleyan Chapel; 
 and, although it was not the regular evening for service, yet,
 
 64 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 after about two hours' notice, we had a both large and respect- 
 able congregation. After service I was accosted by several 
 persons who had previously been under my pastoral care in 
 England ; and deep emotion was excited, and many tears shed, 
 as they detailed scenes of joy or sorrow through which they 
 had passed since their departure from their native land. 
 
 6th. I walked through the city, and examined its various 
 streets, which are wide, and cross each other at right angles. 
 The plan, including both South and North Adelaide, is well 
 arranged; and, when filled up, will form a most beautiful 
 city, with the river Torrens flowing through it, and 
 surrounded by a magnificent park. At present, however, 
 it is but a skeleton, containing not more than 14,000 
 inhabitants; and, although it has several good buildings, 
 amongst which may be mentioned, as one of the best, the 
 Pirie-street Chapel, yet all the rules of architecture have been 
 entirely disregarded in some of the erections: and the exten- 
 sive scale on which it is laid out, and the ample provision thus 
 _made for the accommodation of a much larger population than 
 it possesses at present, or is likely to possess for several years, 
 give it a very straggling appearance; b.ut this fault, if it 'be 
 one, is on the right side, and the plentiful circulation of fresh 
 air thus secured must be very conducive to the health of its 
 inhabitants. The portion of the city on the south side of the 
 river comprises 700 acres, and is nearly level: that on the 
 north side 342 acres, and is elevated, so as to afford a fine 
 view of the country embracing, to the eastward, the darkly- 
 wooded valley of the river, and the peaks and elevations of the 
 Mount Lofty range, with the lighter wooded country at its 
 base; and, to the westward, commanding the whole extent of 
 the Adelaide plains. The southern portion, however, is the 
 most built upon, and is the established commercial division of 
 the city. It also contains the Government-House, andjall the 
 public buildings and offices. It is not yet seventeen years since 
 the first settlers reached the shores of Gulf St. Vincent, not 
 knowing where to locate themselves. The territory on which 
 they landed had never before been trodden by a white man.
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 65 
 
 It was the abode of the kangaroo and the emu, and roamed 
 over by tribes of wandering savages in quest of food ; but the 
 wilderness and solitary place have become glad, and Adelaide 
 is now a flourishing city, possessed of the rights and responsi- 
 bilities attaching to ecclesiastical and corporate power, and 
 supporting four newspapers. The mud and water, however, 
 in its streets during the rainy season, and the absence of lamps, 
 render travelling about the city, especially at night, exceedingly 
 irksome, and not without danger. I was told that some time 
 ago an ox had been drowned in one of the streets, and that in 
 another a waggon had been nearly engulfed. " Round the city, 
 in various directions, are scattered villages with from 50 to 200 
 or 300 inhabitants, and bearing names familiar enough, such 
 as Kensington, Islington, Walkerville, Hindmarsh, Bowden, 
 Prospect, and Theberton. The inhabitants of the capital have 
 already their bathing-places and marine villas, in Glenelg and 
 Brighton, described as beautifully situated on the shore of the 
 gulf, with a pleasant range of sea-beach." 
 
 The Colony of South Australia, of which Adelaide is the 
 capital, comprises an area of 300,000 square miles, or 
 192,000,000 acres, being more than double the dimensions of 
 the British Isles. Of this territory the greater part is, if not 
 totally unexplored, at least very imperfectly known. It is not 
 a mountainous district, though it has a sufficiency of hills and 
 other inequalities of surface to redeem it from the character of 
 flat monotony. The highest summits rise slightly above 3,000 
 feet from the sea-level. The general character of the country, 
 unless on the great alluvial plains, which are the surface-riches 
 of the district, is that of gently undulating ground, with forest- 
 glades and clumps. A large quantity of land is said to be 
 ready for the plough, without the necessity of clearing it either 
 of forest or of the fern-root, which gives so much trouble in 
 many parts of New-Zealand. One authority mentions that there 
 are thousands of acres broken up, from which not a single tree 
 required to be removed. The fertility of many parts for 
 arable purposes, the adaptation of large tracts for sheep 
 pasture, the abundance of mineral wealth, and the salubrity
 
 66 THE 801TTHERN WORLD. 
 
 of the climate, are all admitted on the best evidence. We 
 possess less satisfactory accounts respecting springs and water- 
 courses. The white population in 1849 was 50,000, but has 
 greatly increased, and the country will doubtlessly become very 
 prosperous and attractive. 
 
 fth. After spending two days on shore, and receiving the 
 distinguished hospitality and kind attention of my reverend 
 brethren, I returned to the ship, expecting to sail in the evening. 
 One of her passengers, who had come out to Adelaide with the 
 view of settling there, was so disgusted with the place that he 
 determined to proceed to Sydney. Being a very fashionable 
 gentleman, who had been accustomed to receive considerable 
 homage, he could not endure a place in which he had been 
 subjected to the deep degradation of carrying his own carpet- 
 bag, neither could he brook the insulting freedom of what he 
 called the " low snobs" of the place. One of that class, having 
 said something to displease him, and having received a lecture 
 on deferential behaviour to his superiors, at once said in reply, 
 " You may keep your dignity, and I will keep my blue shirt ; and 
 we shall see which will wear the best and longest in this country." 
 
 8th. Sabbath; and we sailed for Melbourne. We had service 
 ,as usual, in the saloon; but I found it very difficult to engage 
 the attention of the passengers, the land of gold being mani- 
 festly the all-absorbing subject, and laying up treasure on earth 
 a much more interesting concern than laying up treasure in 
 heaven. In the evening, we had the finest sunset I ever 
 witnessed. All the hues of the rainbow, delicately blended like 
 dissolving views, were spread over the heavens; and on the 
 horizon there was the appearance of clumps and rows of trees; 
 houses of various forms and sizes ; animals of different species ; 
 and cannon mounted, apparently ready for action. All these 
 things were most distinctly defined, and seen by many persons. 
 The atmosphere, at the time, was remarkably clear; and no 
 sooner had the " sun gone down" than the stars became visible. 
 
 Wth. Early this morning we sighted the colony of Victoria; 
 and as most of the passengers were to leave the vessel here, 
 their joy on the occasion was unbounded, and showed itself in
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 67 
 
 various frolics. Some, like so many schoolboys, chased each 
 other along the deck, shouted, leaped, and seemed nearly 
 frantic. Nor was this confined to young men in the heyday of 
 life; but men of years, whose grey hairs might have guaranteed 
 more control, were seen throwing up their hats, and attempting 
 practical jokes of the most unmeaning character, and puns 
 such as mortals had never previously heard. Most of them, if 
 not all, saw a splendid fortune in the distance, which they hoped 
 soon to realise, and return to England; but in many cases the 
 bright vision will vanish, and they will see the land of their 
 fathers no more. 
 
 As I was about to leave the " Adelaide," I could not part with 
 my fellow-passengers without considerable feeling. We had 
 been associated during a protracted and perilous voyage, and 
 although some had avowed principles I could not receive, and 
 indulged in practices I did not approve, I nevertheless enter- 
 tained kindly feelings towards all, and earnestly prayed that 
 after the voyage of life had been accomplished we might meet 
 again in a happier world, where there shall be "no more sea," 
 " neither shall there be any more pain, for the former things : ' 
 will have " passed away." 
 
 llth. Entered the bay of Port Phillip. The entrance is 
 scarcely two miles in width, and, from its numerous and power- 
 ful eddies and whirlpools, it forcibly reminded me of " Hurl- 
 gates," near New- York. The haven is most capacious, having 
 a breadth varying from 20 to 60 miles, and including an area 
 of not less than 875 square miles of water, capable of holding 
 in perfect safety the largest fleet of ships that ever went to 
 sea. The principal features which, on entering, attract the 
 attention of the voyager, are Arthur's-Seat, Station- Peak, and 
 a bluff in the north-east, called Dandonong. The Saltwater 
 River, the Yarra-Yarra, the Barwon, the Moorabool, the Werri- 
 bee, and the Little River, all fall into this magnificent bay. 
 We came to anchor at 5 o'clock, off Williamstown, whose early 
 pretensions have been so effectually overshadowed by its 
 powerful neighbour. It nevertheless possesses great natural 
 advantages. Situated at the head of the harbour of Port
 
 68 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 Phillip, with firm anchorage, a beach admirably adapted for the 
 construction of piers and wharfs, and a considerable extent of 
 level land washed on three sides by the sea, it is only reason- 
 able to suppose that Williamstown will eventually become an 
 important place, as its disadvantage, the want of water, is 
 capable of being remedied. Soon after coming to anchor, a 
 boat came off, and I availed myself of the opportunity of 
 landing. It was quite dark when we reached the shore; and, 
 as I was anxious to get forward to Melbourne, two miles and a 
 half distant, I wished to engage a return cab that I met with ; 
 but when the driver refused to take me for less than 50s., I 
 determined to walk. I did so ; and, after plunging into sundry 
 bogs, and walking into many a deep pool, I reached the 
 Wesleyan Mission-House in Collins-street about 8 o'clock, 
 thoroughly tired, and covered with mud. Undoubtedly my 
 entrance into Melbourne would have been different had my 
 friends known of my arrival. On my speaking of the attempt 
 of the cabman to impose upon a stranger, I was assured that 
 the sum he asked was not exorbitant, as the cost of keeping 
 a horse was great, oats being 22s. per bushel, and hay 40 
 per ton! Several friends came to the Mission-House to con- 
 gratulate me on my safe arrival, among whom were a man and 
 his wife who professed to have been brought to God in con- 
 nection with my ministry, when I was stationed at Leeds. 
 
 12th. After an early breakfast, the Rev. W. Butters drove 
 me through the city and its suburbs, showing me everything 
 calculated to interest a stranger. The city stands upon undu- 
 lating ground, favourable for draining, and from various points 
 commands an extensive view of the splendid bay and the rich 
 surrounding country. Many of its streets are wide, crossing 
 each other at right angles, and a few are macadamized; but 
 most of them, in wet weather, are covered with liquid mud of 
 a frightful depth. This inconvenience, however, is capable of 
 being remedied, and will doubtless soon be so. 
 
 In January, 1838, Melbourne consisted of a nucleus of huts, 
 embowered in the forest foliage, and had much the appearance 
 of an Indian village. Two wooden houses served the purpose
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 69 
 
 of inns for the settlers who frequented the place. A small 
 square wooden building, with an old ship's bell suspended from 
 a tree, was used as a place of worship by various religious de- 
 nominations; two or three so-called shops formed emporiums 
 for the sale of every description of useful articles. The flesh 
 of the kangaroo and varieties of wild-fowl was abundantly used, 
 for fresh mutton was still scarce, and beef seldom seen; and 
 a manuscript newspaper was the organ of public opinion in 
 the new colony. The progress of Melbourne during the 
 ensuing six months was extraordinary. Brick buildings, some 
 even of two or three stories high, were numerous ; the inns 
 were transformed into handsome and convenient hotels ; the 
 lines of streets had been cleared, marked, and were in some 
 parts under a process of partial macadamization ; many shops, 
 warehouses^ and agencies had been established; the population 
 had quadrupled ; branches of two Sydney banks were in active 
 operation; and, in October, the "Port Phillip Gazette" was 
 issued from the printing-office of Melbourne. The rapid 
 growth of the capital received, in the years 1841-2, a severe 
 but temporary check. Its subsequent progress, though less 
 speedy, was steady; and, in 1850, it was said, "Melbourne 
 would do no discredit to a province of far older establishment 
 and more developed resources." Since 1850, the discovery of 
 gold in Victoria having attracted to its shores multitudes of 
 people, I found the population of its capital, including the 
 immediate suburbs, estimated at not less than 80,000, of whom, 
 however, 8,000 were living in tents, in and about the city. 
 The public buildings of Melbourne, though necessarily not very 
 numerous, are of a respectable and even superior class. The 
 different places of worship belonging to the Episcopalians, 
 Presbyterians, Roman Catholics, Independents, Baptists, and 
 Wesleyans are substantial edifices, and both externally and 
 internally respectable in their appearance. Some beautiful 
 private houses have been built ; and many of the shops in the 
 principal streets would be no disgrace to any of the fashionable 
 places of business in London. The material formerly used 
 for building in Melbourne was generally wood ; it is now brick,
 
 70 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 and not a few of the better class of houses of this material are 
 stuccoed. But, as several kinds of stone have recently been 
 discovered in the neighbourhood, there seems to be a growing 
 disposition to make use of this more durable material, especially 
 for buildings of any pretensions. There is a substantial and 
 beautiful stone bridge across the Tarra-Yarra river : it is a 
 single arch, of 150 feet span and 30 feet in width, and 
 connects North and South Melbourne. The country imme- 
 diately around the city, on both sides of the river, is thinly 
 wooded; but the wood being generally lofty gum trees, and 
 much of it of a very ornamental character, reminded me of the 
 best park scenery of the mother country. The resources of 
 the colony are such that Melbourne will no doubt continue to 
 advance, and when it shall have a canal from the bay, and 
 suitable docks for its shipping, it will probably become the 
 London of the southern hemisphere. 
 
 13th. Took breakfast this morning at the "Wesleyan 
 Immigrants' Home," and met with parties from Nova Scotia, 
 the West Indies, Ireland, and most of the counties of England. 
 They presented me with a kind congratulatory Address, and gave 
 me a hearty welcome. The building is beautifully situated in 
 one of the most elevated and healthy parts of the city. It 
 contains one large dining-room, which is also used as a place 
 of worship; one sleeping-room for single men, with an adjoining 
 dressing-room; one room for single females; seven rooms for 
 families; two rooms for those who may be sick, one for males 
 and one for females; a large store for immigrants' luggage, 
 and various other appendages. The building cost 4,000, 
 of which sum 1,000 has been received from the Government, 
 and the rest contributed by the Wesleyans and their friends. 
 The "Home" will accommodate 150 persons, and is generally 
 full. It was opened on December 6th, 1852, and in five 
 months it had afforded shelter to 1,026 persons. It is not 
 intended to pauperize the Wesleyan immigrants; but to afford 
 them a comfortable home at the lowest possible charge, and to 
 secure for them pastoral oversight and direction. The " Rules 
 and Regulations" are excellent. [Note -4.]
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 71 
 
 Although the " Home " is intended for Wesleyans, yet other 
 parties, of good moral character, who will observe the rules of 
 the institution, are accommodated when there is room; and 
 hence it had received up to this date 468 Wesleyans, 374 
 Episcopalians, 76 Independents, 61 Presbyterians, 33 Baptists, 
 8 Lutherans, 4 Roman Catholics, and 2 Jews. 
 
 The expense is less than one-half of the amount which would 
 be charged at any respectable boarding-house in the city; and 
 as the object of the Committee is to afford a comfortable home 
 to immigrants on their arrival, until they have time to look 
 about them and make some definite arrangement, they are 
 anxious that no immigrant should remain longer than ten days, 
 unless in some excepted cases, and that the establishment should 
 be of the most extensive benefit to Wesleyan arrivals. The 
 position of immigrants, on their arrival, is in many cases 
 distressing.' At a public meeting in the city a gentleman said, 
 " Multitudes are daily arriving, and what is their reception 1 
 In many instances it is truly sad. They are landed in mud, 
 crammed to suffocation in uncomfortable abodes. Many with- 
 out shelter, without friends, and without money, find nothing 
 before them but an early grave. They bring with them the 
 savings of many years, but in a few days they are penniless; 
 and often is seen the poor immigrant's funeral, without a single 
 mourner following him to the tomb." A gentleman, one wet 
 and stormy evening last week, on leaving his place of business, 
 found a woman leaning for support against the door-post of 
 his office, pale, dispirited, and sick. He asked her husband, 
 who was with her, whether she was not very ill, and was told 
 that she was so indeed. " We are new arrivals, Sir," was the 
 sad tale, " and have just come on shore. We have been hunting 
 for quarters all over the town, without success : it is fast getting 
 dark, and I fear we shall not be able to get them. Our little 
 boy is now sitting on our luggage at the wharf, trying to take 
 care of it. My wife is very ill; and what with the fret, and 
 bustle, and exertion, I am afraid that she is about to be pre- 
 maturely confined here in the open street." The gentleman, 
 being a benevolent man, obtained shelter for the unhappy
 
 72 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 strangers. At a public meeting, a few days ago, one of the 
 speakers said, " Melbourne is a city of board-and-lodging 
 houses. Nobody feels at home, and all hospitality may be said 
 to have ceased. Friends may call upon us, but we can afford 
 them no home. Men of the highest respectability arrive, and 
 they must lie down on the floor, and be thankful even for that." 
 Many of the newly-arrived immigrants, finding themselves 
 unable to cope with the difficulties, get into a deep desponding 
 state of mind, and the moment disease visits them, it generally 
 assumes a typhoid form. In many cases the disease is more of 
 the mind than the body, and the result is truly melancholy. 
 One evening, about 2,000 men, women, and children were 
 landed from the bay. Darkness soon enveloped them, and, 
 with but few exceptions, they had to sleep upon their luggage 
 at the wharf during a wet and most uncomfortable night. 
 Occurrences like these led the Wesleyans to provide an Immi- 
 grants' Home, an example which was soon followed by the city; 
 and, to the honour of the people of Melbourne, they have pre- 
 pared an Establishment, at an immense cost, to afford accom- 
 modation to those immigrants who ,may require it on their 
 arrival at this port, and in other respects have exerted them- 
 selves to meet the wants of helpless strangers. 
 
 \kth. This morning I met a number of office-bearers and 
 friends of the Wesleyan church at the Immigrants' Home. A 
 substantial breakfast was prepared by Mr. Courtenay, the 
 indefatigable governor of the establishment ; and notwithstand- 
 ing the torrents of rain which descended, about 100 persons sat 
 down to the repast. After the cloth was removed, and family 
 worship had been attended to, the Rev. W. Butters took the 
 chair, and Edward S. Parker, Esq., J. P., one of the oldest 
 office-bearers of the Wesleyan church in the colony, presented 
 me with the following Address : 
 
 " To the fiev. R. Young, Deputation from the British Wesleyan 
 Conference to the Australian Missions. 
 
 " WE, the undersigned office-bearers, members, and friends 
 of the Wesleyan Society in the Melbourne and Collingwood
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 73 
 
 Circuits, desire to thank you for the great pleasure you have 
 afforded us in meeting us this morning. We embrace this 
 opportunity to express our thanksgiving to Almighty God, that, 
 after a tedious and perilous voyage, you have been brought in 
 health and safety to this ' land of our adoption.' We rejoice to 
 see you personally, and especially to receive you as the repre- 
 sentative of the venerable British Wesleyan Conference. In 
 the most distinct and explicit manner we desire to assure you 
 of our unabated attachment to the doctrine and discipline of 
 Wesleyan Methodism ; and of our fervent wish that the Church 
 of our fathers may, through its admirable economy and institu- 
 tions, exert a powerful influence upon our rapidly-increasing 
 population, and be characterized by the vitality and success 
 which have distinguished it in our 'fatherland.' The recent 
 discovery of our gold-fields, and the consequent unparalleled 
 influx of population, have placed us as a community in an 
 important and extremely peculiar position, while the excite- 
 ment and social disorganization which have resulted from these 
 causes have exerted an unfavourable influence upon the spi- 
 rituality of the churches in this colony. We have endeavoured 
 to meet the exigencies of the times, but have seriously felt the 
 want of more Ministerial aid. We, however, rejoice in the hope 
 that the increased help afforded us by the arrival of the Rev. 
 Messrs. Harding and Hart, and the expected arrival of other 
 Ministers, will enable us to extend and consolidate our opera- 
 tions. We tender, through you, our thanks to the Committee 
 and Conference for the appointment of a Deputation to these 
 Colonies. We regard your mission as of the highest importance 
 to our infant churches, and assure you of our general desire to 
 co-operate with you in laying the foundation of a church, 
 which, by the blessing of God, may be the means of the conver- 
 sion of multitudes. To the utmost of our ability we are prepared 
 to devote the means which Providence may place at our dis- 
 posal to-ihe support and extension of His cause, and to engage 
 in vigorous and timely efforts in promoting the interests of 
 that section of the Church with which it is our privilege and 
 honour to be united. We pray that your mission to these 
 
 E
 
 74 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 shores may be eminently successful; that you may be pre- 
 served in safety in your journeyings; that you may be restored 
 in health to your family, and may be spared long to labour 
 honourably and usefully in the vineyard of the Lord; and 
 that, when ' full of days,' you may be translated from earth 
 to heaven." 
 
 The speeches which followed my reply to this truly Christian 
 and constitutional Address were full of high principle and 
 gracious feeling, reminding me of the hallowed strains of some 
 of the Centenary Meetings. 
 
 \5th. Preached twice in theWesleyan Chapel, Collins-street. 
 It will seat 1,000 persons, and although the day was wet more 
 attended than could gain admittance. At both services 
 three-fourths of the hearers, at least, were interesting young 
 men, destined, no doubt, to exert a powerful influence upon 
 this rising country, and should, on that account, as well as on 
 account of their spiritual and eternal benefit, receive suitable 
 pastoral attention. The word was manifestly with power, and 
 I had hope that the result would be seen after many days. 
 At the conclusion of each service I received many congratula- 
 tions : some from parties who had, in different parts of England, 
 been under my pastoral care; and others from individuals who 
 had, in the West Indies and Nova Scotia, attended my ministry. 
 In many cases the meeting was deeply affecting, especially 
 where spiritual loss had been felt, or where a family circle had 
 been broken by death. Nor was the emotion less powerful 
 when, in the fulness of their heart, some recognised me as the 
 humble individual who, in the great condescension of God, had 
 been, years before, the instrument of leading them to the foot 
 of the Cross, and to the enjoyment of salvation. " Neither is 
 he that planteth anything, nor he that watereth, but God who 
 giveth the increase." 
 
 16th. I inspected several plots of land granted by the 
 Government, or given by private individuals, as sites for 
 chapels, school-houses, and Ministers' residences, and was more 
 than astonished at the prompt measures taken to establish
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 75 
 
 Methodism throughout the colony. Much credit is due to the 
 Rev. W. Butters for his persevering attention to these matters 
 and for the skill with which he has conducted all the necessary 
 negotiations. 
 
 In the evening, the Missionary Meeting was held in Collins- 
 street Chapel. The attendance was good ; the spirit 
 equal to anything I had seen in England; and the 
 proceeds more than four times the amount of any previous 
 anniversary. 
 
 17z/i. Waited this morning upon His Excellency the Go- 
 vernor, and met with a most friendly reception. His Excellency 
 made sundry inquiries about our Missionary operations in 
 different parts of the world, and was pleased to pass a very 
 high encomium upon our Body in this colony, and to notice 
 with special approbation the conduct of our members at the 
 " diggings." In the course of the day two Clergymen of the 
 Episcopal Church called upon me, and were not ashamed to 
 state that they had received their first spiritual good amongst 
 the Wesleyans. They both expressed their great respect for 
 our Body, and gave me as hearty a welcome to Australia as 
 they could have done had they still been in connection with 
 the Wesleyans. They are truly evangelical Ministers, labour- 
 ing in the word and doctrine with good effect. I was greatl 
 pleased with their spirit ; and certainly they appeared to great 
 advantage when placed in contrast with other Clergymen, who 
 appear to "forget the rock whence they were hewn," and 
 employ various stratagems in order that their new associates 
 may forget also. 
 
 In the evening I met a party of friends, and afterwards 
 attended an excellent Missionary Meeting at Collingwood. Mr. 
 Cocker took the chair, and spoke with much propriety and 
 power. A Lutheran Minister was on the platform, and 
 addressed the meeting with happy effect, and especially when 
 he, with great catholicity of feeling, spoke of the benefit his 
 country had received through the agency the Wesleyan Society 
 had for some years employed at Winnenden and its neigh- 
 bourhood. The meeting was well attended, and the collection 
 
 E2
 
 76 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 exceedingly liberal, being six times the amount of that of the 
 previous year. 
 
 18th. Preached in Melbourne; after which a special prayer- 
 meeting was held, to intercede with God that great success 
 might attend my mission to Australia. The earnest prayers 
 offered, the fine spirit evinced, and the gracious influence felt, 
 were of the most encouraging character. 
 
 I9th. The ladies connected with the Wesleyan church and 
 congregation in this city, not having been invited to the break- 
 fast given to me on the 14th, felt disappointed, and determined 
 to have a tea-meeting, that they also might evince the plea- 
 sure they felt at my arrival, and the interest they took in my 
 important mission to the country. Their object was accom- 
 plished this evening in the very best style. Not fewer than 
 600 persons sat down to tea; the tables were arranged in such 
 a way as to accommodate the whole assembly without the 
 slightest inconvenience, and there was no necessity for their 
 being removed when the speaking commenced. The choir 
 mustered in good force, and gave the audience such a musical 
 treat as delighted the whole assembly. Mr. Butters took the 
 chair, and, after a few appropriate remarks, several gentlemen 
 addressed the meeting; and having described the spiritual 
 wants of Victoria, the following resolution was unanimously 
 adopted : " That this Meeting, impressed with the necessity of 
 procuring a large increase of Ministerial assistance to carry on 
 the work of the Lord, in connection with the Wesleyan church 
 in this colony, requests the llev. Robert Young to write by the 
 ' Harbinger ' to the Missionary Committee, to send out to our 
 help six Ministers; and the Meeting pledges itself to contribute 
 600 towards defraying the expenses of their passage." In a 
 few minutes, amidst the outburst of genuine Methodistical 
 feeling, the entire amount was raised. A gentleman present, 
 who had, as a very poor man, been brought to God, in the Queen- 
 street Circuit, London, during my first appointment to the me- 
 tropolis, described the interesting particulars of his conversion ; 
 and, after detailing his subsequent history, said, that one part of 
 the " diggings" with which he was connected was so destitute
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 77 
 
 of Ministerial help, that he would give another 100 to defray 
 the expenses of a Minister from England to be placed there : 
 and on handing me a cheque for that amount, he said, with 
 deep emotion, "0, Sir, when you found me in London, no person . 
 would trust me for a joint of meat; but now my banker will 
 trust me for thousands of pounds." The meeting, I believe, 
 gave general satisfaction, and was certainly indicative of the 
 firm hold which Methodism has on the people of Mel- 
 bourne. Thus did the ladies, as usual, bear away the palm; 
 and, with their tea, thoroughly outdo the gentlemen, with their 
 breakfast. 
 
 2Qth. I was greatly amused in looking over the advertise- 
 ments of one of the newspapers, headed "Missing Friends;" 
 and furnish the following as specimens : " M'lvor. George 
 Morgan, of Hull, write to your brother, you rogue." " Who- 
 ever will point out Mary Taplin to John Taplin, and where 
 she is stopping, shall receive 5 reward, dead or alive. John 
 Taplin, Canvass-Town." "Mrs. Richard Jackson, of Liverpool, 
 arrived in Melbourne on the 27th of April : she again requests 
 her husband to communicate with her immediately. Address 
 86, King-street." "Daniel Corderick will find his wife in 
 Melbourne, at John M'Grath's, Little Collins-street."" Mrs. W. 
 Barak. You are requested to call for your clothes left at your 
 late residence. Your husband is off for England immediately." 
 Under the same head of " Missing Friends," I saw the follow- 
 ing advertisement : " Daniel Harrigan will find his dark 
 brown mare, branded J. D. near shoulder, by applying to 
 Charles Thompson." 
 
 21 st I found that some of the merchants and shopkeepers 
 in Melbourne were making rapid fortunes. Mr. Pascoe, an 
 excellent man, who has a large establishment, told me that he 
 could name ten persons, just around him, who had each 
 realized 50,000, and five or six others who had each accumu- 
 lated a quarter of a million, since the discovery of gold in 
 Victoria. But, with all this wealth, I saw little of that com- 
 fort which is enjoyed in England by families not possessed of 
 one-tenth of such property. Servants were so scarce, that in
 
 78 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 some establishments they could not be obtained, and, in others, 
 not more than a very scanty and miserable supply ; so that, in 
 several cases, the work of the kitchen had to be performed by 
 the lady of the house, or her daughters. But all had not suc- 
 ceeded in this city of gold; for I found it contained much 
 poverty and distress. One day I saw a member of a titled 
 English family driving a bullock-dray; and, at another time, 
 met with a gentleman who had received an University educa- 
 tion working on the roads; and, certainly, the splendid gold 
 spectacles which he wore at the time did not harmonize 
 with his menial employment. Of this class of persons, I 
 understood there were many in such, and even in worse 
 circumstances. 
 
 22d. /Sabbath; and preached twice in Collins-street Chapel. 
 The crowd in the evening was immense; every aisle was full, 
 and hundreds of persons could not gain admittance. It was a 
 blessed day, and I hope profitable to many. 
 
 23d. Drove out to Brighton, which is about seven miles 
 from Melbourne, and consists of many straggling houses. The 
 town is laid out on an extensive scale, and rapidly increasing. 
 The land in the neighbourhood is light and sandy; but it 
 produces vegetables of great variety and excellent quality for 
 the Melbourne market. The drive from the city is through 
 one of Nature's parks, of great beauty, and from which there 
 is a fine view of the shipping in the splendid harbour. On my 
 return, I spent the evening with an interesting party of friends 
 at St. Kilda, another enchanting spot, amidst rich park scenery; 
 and was thankful that, at both these places, exertions were 
 being put forth by our people to meet the spiritual wants of 
 the increasing population. 
 
 24th. This evening met a large and interesting party of 
 friends at Mr. Powell's, who had all become wealthy since the 
 discovery of gold, and evidently felt their responsibility. They 
 were not unduly elated by their sudden worldly prosperity; 
 but anxious to perform, with acceptance, the new duties 
 devolving upon them. The evening was profitably spent. There 
 was no foolish trifling, nor unedifying gossip, such as too often
 
 THE SOUTHER^ WORLD. 79 
 
 characterize evening parties; but important conversation as to 
 their obligations to the Giver of all good, and how they could 
 best promote the prosperity of religion throughout the colony. 
 These topics were entered upon, with manifest zest, by both 
 ladies and gentlemen; and I have seldom spent an evening 
 with greater satisfaction to my own mind. I clearly saw that 
 it was not money, but the " love " of it, that is the " root of 
 all evil." Perhaps it is a difficult thing to possess much 
 wealth without being unduly attached to it ; and therefore " a 
 rich man shall hardly enter into the kingdom of God." Of 
 this truth the friends in question were evidently aware, but 
 anxious so to conduct their affairs that the blessings of 
 Providence might facilitate rather than hinder their progress 
 in spiritual things. 
 
 25th. I found labour of every description abundant, and 
 rather more in the market than could be employed. Wages, 
 however, had not declined, and, to an Englishman, appeared 
 exorbitant. [Note BJ] 
 
 2Qth. Received calls from several persons recently arrived, 
 and ascertained that their impressions respecting the country 
 were various. Some thought it the best country in the world ; 
 others were not quite so enthusiastic in their expressions; and 
 others declared themselves disgusted with it, and bitterly 
 lamented that they had left the land of their birth. I observed, 
 however, that these opinions had been greatly influenced by 
 personal circumstances. Those parties who had sold their 
 goods at 300 per cent, upon the invoice prices, declared it was 
 a first-rate country ; others, less fortunate, said that the colony, 
 in the course of time, might probably be important; whilst 
 others, who had landed after dark, and plunged into deep mud, 
 in which wives had lost their shoes and children their stockings, 
 and who had neither friends to receive 'them nor goods to sell, 
 declared that they had been duped by designing men. The 
 day was wet and very uncomfortable. I felt disappointed in 
 the climate ; the weather was cold and damp, and for several 
 days after my arrival very much resembled the November 
 days in London, with the exception of the fog. In the evening
 
 80 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 I met a party of friends at the house of Mr. Cook, and 
 received much important information. 
 
 27th. Started by steam-boat this morning for Geelong, a 
 rising town about 50 miles from Melbourne. We passed down 
 the Yarra-Yarra river, whose tortuous course to the bay is seven 
 miles ; whereas the real distance, in a straight line, is little more 
 than two miles. As we passed through the shipping in the 
 harbour, I counted about 300 vessels at anchor, many of which 
 had been there for months, a sufficient number of seamen 
 to take them to sea not being obtainable. After a pleasant 
 passage of five hours, we arrived at Geelong; which is, un- 
 questionably, the second town in the colony. It is situated at 
 the head of the deep inlet formed by the western arm of Port 
 Phillip. The bay is remarkably picturesque, and the situation 
 of the town is said to be decidedly one of the best in Australia 
 for a great commercial city. The harbour, however, though 
 presenting an apparently broad open mouth, cannot be entered 
 by large ships; so that vessels which are annually charged with 
 large quantities of wool, exported from Geelong, are obliged to 
 lie to the eastward of Point Henry, about seven miles distant 
 from the port. The bar stretching across the entrance has but 
 nine feet of water at high tide; but, as it is said to be com- 
 posed of an ancient deposit of shell and other matter of 
 inferior tenacity, suitable arrangements are being made to 
 remove it. 
 
 28th. To-day Mr. Forster, my kind host, drove me through 
 the city and its neighbourhood. The weather was bitterly 
 cold, but I nevertheless enjoyed the ride, and was greatly 
 pleased with what I saw. Ashby, Irishtown, and Newtown, in 
 consequence of their increasing population, have become nearly 
 joined to the city. The inhabitants of Geelong and its 
 vicinity are estimated at 22,000. I greatly admired the 
 undulating country around. The scenery is beautiful; the 
 soil is rich, and produces all kinds of European grain in 
 great abundance. A vineyard, established near Geelong, 
 yields at the rate of 1,000 gallons of wine per acre. The city 
 is certainly beautifully situated, and well laid out : it contains
 
 THE SOUTHERN WOULD. 81 
 
 many good public and private buildings, and several 
 commodious places of worship. The streets, however, are 
 not paved; nor are they illuminated by either gas or oil; 
 but these inconveniences will, doubtless, soon be remedied. 
 Mr. Forster invited a large party of friends to meet me at 
 tea in the evening. The emigration of Wesleyans to the 
 colony of Victoria became the topic of conversation; and, as 
 it appeared that, for various reasons, many of the Wesleyans 
 had been entirely lost to the Body in Australia, it was 
 agreed that another Minister should be stationed in Geelong, 
 and every emigrant vessel visited on her arrival in the port, 
 that the Wesleyans on board might receive a Christian 
 welcome, and such pastoral attention as their circumstances 
 required. 
 
 29th. Preached twice in the Wesleyan Chapel, which was 
 being enlarged, and, when finished, will be a most beautiful 
 edifice, capable of accommodating 1,000 hearers. Many more 
 came than could gain admittance. Several were present who 
 had known me at home : amongst whom I met with some who 
 reminded me that I had baptized them; others, that I had 
 married them ; and others, that I had been the humble instru- 
 ment of leading them to the Saviour. Of the latter number 
 was a lady from Amlwch. In February, 1839, when making a 
 tour of North Wales for the purpose of holding Centenary 
 Meetings, I generally preached very early in the morning in 
 the place where I had held a meeting the previous evening. I 
 did so in Amlwch; and it appears from the statement of the 
 lady in question, that the word was with power, and resulted 
 in her conversion to God. " Cast thy bread upon the waters, 
 and thou shalt find it after many days." 
 
 30th. Returned by steam-boat to Melbourne. Many of the 
 passengers had been at the " diggings," and had realized con- 
 siderable wealth. Being generally of humble origin, they 
 evidently felt the sudden change in their circumstances, and 
 made sundry attempts at being polite. One observed to me 
 that he supposed I had not the honour of knowing him ; and 
 another stated, in very emphatic terms, that paper currency 
 
 E 5
 
 82 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 would soon be discontinued as the circulating species. Their 
 behaviour, however, was generally respectful ; and if the slippery 
 state of the deck had not told of their free and unrestrained use 
 of tobacco, no person could have had any just cause of complaint 
 against them. 
 
 31 st. Weather still wet and very cold. I certainly found 
 the climate very different from what I had heard or read of it ; 
 and if the weather since my arrival was to be taken as a fair 
 specimen of Australian winter, I felt that it had been grossly 
 misrepresented, and statements made calculated to produce 
 much disappointment. In the evening, I attended worship at 
 the Wesleyan Immigrants' Home; and was increasingly de- 
 lighted with the institution. Just as I was leaving, a woman 
 and two children were brought to the Home, by a benevolent 
 gentleman, who had found them sitting on the wharf, wet, cold, 
 friendless, and weeping. It appears that the poor woman had 
 landed with her two helpless children in the morning, and 
 during the day having been unable to obtain any lodging, and 
 her husband being still on board the vessel, in the bay, endea- 
 vouring to get his luggage on shore, she must have remained 
 in these circumstances all night, without any kind of shelter, 
 but for the kindness of the gentleman alluded to. The suf- 
 ferings of many of the immigrants on their arrival are truly 
 heartrending, especially in the case of women and children ; 
 and notwithstanding the liberal efforts made in Melbourne to 
 prevent or meliorate those sufferings, I fear they must, to a 
 great extent, continue whilst the arrivals are so numerous, and 
 especially at this unfavourable season of the year. 
 
 June \st. Preached this afternoon at the opening of a chapel 
 at St. Kilda, about two miles and a half from Melbourne Bridge, 
 but which is nevertheless within the boundaries of the city. A 
 few months ago scarcely a house was built in this locality, and 
 yet the population of St. Kilda, and its immediate neighbour- 
 hood, is now estimated at 10,000 persons. The chapel is but 
 a temporary one, intended only to meet the present emergency, 
 and is to be converted into a Minister's residence, so soon as a 
 suitable place of worship can be built. The situation is
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 83 
 
 beautiful; and the large gum trees, and silken she oaks, with 
 groups of tents and numerous cottages of various shapes and 
 sizes scattered through the natural park around, render the 
 scene most picteresque, and even enchanting. I remained all 
 night in the neighbourhood, where I was hospitably entertained 
 by Mr. and Mrs. Beaver. During the evening we had some 
 interesting conversation in reference to the state of society in 
 the colony, and the recklessness with which money was spent 
 by a certain order of successful " diggers." A merchant of 
 great wealth, who was present, said that some time ago he 
 had wished to purchase a turkey for a particular purpose, but 
 the price being 21s. he hesitated, and said it was too much to 
 give; when the party who had it for sale replied, "Yes, it is 
 too much for the like of you, but a digger will give that price 
 for it." It was also stated by the same gentleman, that on 
 one occasion the Governor's lady entered a shop to make a 
 purchase, and being shown a very expensive article, she refused 
 to buy it at a price so exorbitant; when a digger, who 
 happened to be present, requested the shopman to put it aside 
 for his wife. 
 
 2d. This morning I expected to leave for Sydney, by the 
 " Cleopatra " steamer, but was disappointed. The time of her 
 sailing had, to the inconvenience of many, been altered four 
 times. Now a fifth alteration was made; and, connecting this 
 deception with many others to which I had for the last seven 
 months been subjected, my spirit was not a little grieved. " I 
 said in my haste, All men are liars." 
 
 A letter from Spring-Creek diggings was handed to me, in 
 which the writer says, "We have a famine of the Word. Days 
 of miracles and visions have passed, but hear our prayers and 
 do ' come over and help us.' We have no local help, but are 
 willing to the utmost of our ability to tax ourselves for the 
 support of a Minister; and I feel persuaded he would be no 
 burden on the general funds of the Society. Can you send us 
 one ? If you say No, then, however reluctant, we must turn 
 from the Wesleyan Bisjiop to the other Bishop of Melbourne. 
 This you will prevent. Only think of some 3,000 souls pro-
 
 84 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 fessing Christianity, and no opportunity of attending worship, 
 or of hearing words whereby they might be saved." In conse- 
 quence of this, and many similar requests, I arranged for Mr. 
 Raston, who was daily expected, to proceed at once to the gold- 
 fields. 
 
 3d. The wet weather having made some of the streets of 
 Melbourne almost impassable, the following statement appeared 
 in the Argus: "Yesterday an inquest was held on the body 
 of Mr. Spence, at the Leinster Arms, at the corner of Lonsdale 
 and Stephen streets. The jurors had to go to Little Lonsdale- 
 street to view the body, in that portion of the street which is 
 between Stephen and Spring streets, and which is in an intol- 
 erably filthy condition from bad weather and still worse repairs. 
 The street is therefore full of deep ruts. After viewing the 
 body, the jurors were returning to the Leinster Arms, when the 
 last pedestrian fell into one of the deepest of the ruts, and was for 
 some fifteen minutes lost to sight, while he was floundering in 
 and trying to crawl out of the rut. Meantime his brethren of 
 the inquest continued on for some distance, until the loss of one 
 of their number was ascertained. It then seemed that if he was 
 ' lost to sight,' he was ' still to memory dear,' for they returned 
 to search for him, and got back to the rut just in time to see 
 their brother escape most fortunately from the gulf, in a 
 thoroughly exhausted and besmeared condition; so much so, 
 that it was feared at one time that a second inquest would have 
 to be held on the body of the almost smothered juror. But 
 after convincing themselves that he was alive, they adjourned 
 the inquest for a time to enable him to go home and clean 
 himself, and refresh the inner man with proper restoratives." 
 
 th. On inquiry as to the arrival of vessels and passengers 
 in this port, I ascertained that during the month of May 202 
 vessels, of an aggregate tonnage of G2,105 tons, had arrived, 
 conveying 8,8GO passengers ; and that during the period of the 
 last seven months no less than 1,125 vessels had entered this 
 port, bringing 63,400 passengers. 
 
 Dysentery being prevalent amongst many of the new arrivals, 
 the following prescription, prepared by a Calcutta physician of
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 85 
 
 large practice, was said to be very efficacious : " One dr. sima 
 rouba ; three ozs. rice, burnt black and powdered fine ; three ozs. 
 gum arabic. After chopping the sima rouba fine, boil the 
 whole of the ingredients in a pint of water until it steams down 
 to about a tea-cup full, which strain through a coarse cloth, and 
 drink warm in the morning, about two hours before eating. 
 This will be required three consecutive mornings in most cases, 
 the patients living well upon plain solids. For milder com- 
 plaints of this kind a smaller quantity of gum is required." 
 
 5lh. Sabbath. In the morning I preached at Collingwood, 
 and in the evening at Collins-street. Both chapels were crowded, 
 and in the evening many hundreds were unable to find accom- 
 modation. Never did I witness more attentive congregations 
 than those to whom I this day ministered the Word of Life. 
 A solemn and deeply-interesting sacramental service terminated 
 the labours of this blessed Sabbath. 
 
 6^7*. As Mr. Butters and myself were on our way to break- 
 fast this morning, at the " Wesleyan Immigrants' Home," I 
 was accosted by a sailor, who abruptly said, " I am one of your 
 Liverpool converts." After some inquiry into his history, I 
 expressed a hope that he still retained the gracious change of 
 which he had spoken ; when he, with some hesitation, replied in 
 the affirmative; but said, that since his arrival in Australia he 
 had not kept a very good reckoning, and had therefore got a 
 little out of his latitude : that this was in a great measure the 
 result of being married to an ungodly woman, which led him to 
 wish for a divorce, if he could have that blessing consistently 
 with Christianity, and then to marry some one else, " a reli- 
 gious woman and no mistake." In answer to certain questions 
 which I proposed, he replied, that when he was absent at the 
 "diggings" his wife "went adrift;" but that on his return 
 he " towed her back again," hoping that she would behave 
 better for the future. In that, however, he had been mis- 
 taken ; for, the other night, she had " gone off again, full 
 sail;" and that she might now "scud away," as he found he 
 could do nothing with her. I gave him what I conceived 
 suitable advice ; and on my committing him to the care of Mr.
 
 86 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 Butters, he said to that Minister, " Sir, you will find me worthy 
 of your attention ! " I thought so too, if Mr. Butters was fond 
 of curiosities. 
 
 7th. During my sojourn in Melbourne I endeavoured to 
 make myself acquainted with its social and religious character, 
 and left with a deep impression that it had been greatly mis- 
 represented. The frightful stories of robberies and murders 
 which had appeared in the papers, and led the passengers of 
 the "Adelaide" to prepare their revolvers for action on the 
 day of our arrival, had been greatly exaggerated. One pas- 
 senger, on going on shore, placed his revolver in his belt, with 
 his hand upon it, that all might see and take warning; the 
 second day he concealed it under his garment; and on the 
 third day, finding that other persons did not carry such a 
 weapon, but only laughed at his alarm, he entirely laid it aside. 
 Some frightful cases of wickedness have undoubtedly occurred 
 in Melbourne, a result which might fairly have been expected 
 from the sudden influx of a tainted population from a neigh- 
 bouring colony, on the discovery of gold ; but that is now 
 prevented by a prompt and effective administration of law. 
 Besides, the arrival of vast numbers of highly respectable 
 immigrants has, no doubt, exerted a corrective and highly 
 beneficial influence upon the city. The religious state of the 
 community, however, is far from being satisfactory. It is true, 
 places of worship are numerous, and generally well attended, 
 and the Sabbath is outwardly observed, and benevolent institu- 
 tions liberally supported; yet the prevalence of intemperance 
 and gambling is deeply affecting, and, if not checked, will ruin 
 many a family, if not the city itself. 
 
 8tk. Early this morning I left by the " Cleopatra" steamer 
 for Sydney. We soon entered Bass's Strait, and in the 
 evening passed Wilson's Promontory, the most southerly land 
 of Australia. A sad story is told in relation to this locality. 
 It is said that a young lady, who had been from home to 
 complete her education, was returning to her friends, in the 
 prime of youth, when the vessel in which she was a passenger 
 was wrecked on this part of the coast. Several of the crew
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 87 
 
 were drowned, and the residue that reached the shore, with 
 the exception of the unhappy girl, were murdered by the 
 blacks. " Numerous parties," says a respectable Australian 
 writer, "chiefly composed of residents in the adjacent dis- 
 tricts, some induced by a large reward, others by a better 
 feeling, have at various times set out to recapture her, but 
 without success. Vast tracts of the country in which she is 
 known to be confined are thickly wooded and broken, and 
 in many parts it is almost impenetrable. But there are other 
 and even greater difficulties to be surmounted by those who 
 undertake the pursuit of the savages. They must not only 
 traverse these almost inaccessible regions, at times without the 
 bare satisfaction that they are on the right scent; but they 
 also must use the utmost caution to conceal their intentions; 
 for there is good reason to fear that, if the blacks found them- 
 selves unable to carry away their victim, they would, by a blow 
 of a ' waddie,' put an end to her sufferings, and thus frustrate 
 the exertions of her rescuers, when upon the point of meeting 
 with success. The colonists have made great efforts towards 
 her recovery. She has been seen now and then. It is said 
 she is always attended by a black, who watches her with great 
 vigilance. Her lot has, indeed, been dreadful! At a period 
 when the faculties are most vigorous, and the sensibility is 
 keen; when education had given her all the accomplishments 
 of civilized life, and cultivated her sense of its refinements; to 
 be torn away from all she loved, at the moment when she 
 hoped to be united to them for life, and to become the prey of 
 the most barbarous men upon earth; death, under any shape, 
 would have been preferable, the club of the savage, or a virgin- 
 grave beneath the waters of the Pacific." 
 
 IQt/t. We passed Cape Howe, where a few days before "The 
 Monumental City," a beautiful steamer, had been wrecked, and 
 33 persons, after enduring severe sufferings, had met with a 
 watery grave. Much blame has been attached to the Captain 
 and first officer. 
 
 I had a good deal of intercourse with our passengers, whom 
 I found to be a mixed multitude. Some were "squatters,"
 
 88 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 and had been to the Victoria market with cattle. One gentle- 
 man had travelled 400 miles, another 500 miles, and another 
 nearly 700 miles. Several weeks had been spent on their 
 journey. They gave an interesting account of the country 
 through which they had driven their cattle, it being generally 
 level, and occasionally for scores of miles presenting no undu- 
 lations, nor even trees or shrubs, but one extended plain of 
 grass, greatly resembling a gentleman's lawn. It would appear 
 that the prices in Victoria were very remunerative, and fully 
 justified the journey. Other passengers were enriched diggers, 
 many of whom knew not how to behave themselves with pro- 
 priety. Their low and wretched puns, and their uproarious 
 mirth, together with the many airs they assumed, indicated 
 whence they had sprung, and rendered their company anything 
 but agreeable. They gambled, too, without restraint; and, 
 indeed, once or twice commenced their play in the centre of 
 the dining-table, before the ladies had finished their pudding. 
 Nor was their free use of tobacco, in various forms, with its 
 offensive results, to be checked by any kind of remonstrance. 
 Their conduct reminded me of a person on board an American 
 steamer, who was smoking on the quarter-deck; and on the 
 Captain's pointing him to a notice which prohibited "gentle- 
 men " from smoking in that part of the vessel, he carefully 
 read it, and then said, " That here notice don't refer to me 
 any how. I airito, gentleman, and never were;" and accordingly 
 smoked on. 
 
 \\th. About 12 o'clock we entered Port Jackson, the 
 magnificent harbour of Sydney. Its length from "the Heads" 
 to the city is about five miles; and its deeply-indented shores 
 are fringed with evergreens, whilst its placid bosom is decked 
 with numerous islets of exquisite beauty. As the voyager pro- 
 ceeds, he perceives bays within bays, coves within coves, dis- 
 playing on their gently-sloping banks sundry villas of matchless 
 loveliness, and handsome cottages encircled with gardens and 
 shrubberies of peculiar and fantastic form. Every minute a 
 fresh vista opens on his view, each, as it seems, more lovely 
 than the last, until the scene becomes perfectly enchanting,
 
 THE SOTJTHEBN WORLD. 89 
 
 and exerts a spell-bound influence over his mind. Threading 
 his way amongst various islets, and rounding one point after 
 another, he gazes, rubs his eyes, and gazes again, until he finds 
 himself bewildered with variety, overpowered by magnificence, 
 and enclosed in a labyrinth of beauty. Whilst thus impressed 
 and captivated with what I saw, the vessel came to anchor; 
 and the Rev. W. B. Boyce, and other Ministers and friends, 
 came off in a boat, recalled me from my reverie, and gave me 
 a most hearty welcome to New South Wales. Mr. Boyce drove 
 me to his residence at the Glebe, a beautiful and sequestered 
 spot, which was to be my home during my sojourn in the 
 colony. 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 NEW SOUTH WALES Sydney Official Address Missionary Meetings 
 Visit to Windsor, Richmond, and Paramatta Snow Sydney Univer- 
 sity State support of Religion A peculiar character Legislative 
 Council Speaker Visit to the University Census Schedules. 
 
 ONE of the most interesting pages in the annals of British 
 colonization is found in the early history of New South Wales. 
 This colony was founded in 1788, under circumstances novel 
 and instructive. Banishment from England had long been 
 found in the penal code of that country. The first decree, 
 ordaining it as the "punishment of rogues and vagabonds," 
 passed in the 39th year of the reign of Queen Elizabeth, but 
 without naming the place of exile. During the reign of 
 James I., the practice of transporting convicts to America 
 commenced; and in 1717 an Act of Parliament was passed, 
 which stated that " in many of His Majesty's colonies and 
 plantations in America there was a great want of servants, 
 who, by their labour and industry, might be the means of
 
 90 THE SOUTHERN WOBLD. 
 
 improving and making the said colonies and plantations more 
 useful to the nation ;" and specifying certain conditions by 
 which transportation to that country was to be regulated. By 
 virtue of this Act about 2,000 wretched prisoners were 
 annually expati-iated from England, until the system was put 
 an end to by the separation of the United States from the 
 government of the mother country. The prisons now being 
 crowded, various expedients were suggested and resorted to for 
 the relief of the country, but without success. At this juncture 
 of affairs, the favourable description given by Captain Cook of 
 that part of Australia which he had discovered, and named 
 New South Wales, determined the Government to attempt the 
 formation of a penal settlement at Botany-Bay, as a means of 
 obtaining the following ends: "1st, to rid the mother- 
 country of the yearly increasing number of prisoners, who were 
 accumulating in the prisons; 2d, to afford a proper place for 
 the safe custody and punishment of the criminals, as well as 
 for their progressive and ultimate reformation ; and 3d, to form 
 a free colony out of the materials which the reformed prisoners 
 would supply, in addition to free emigrants who might settle 
 in the country from time to time." For the accomplishment 
 of these objects, an Act of Parliament was passed in the reign 
 of George ILL; and on the 13th of May, 1787, a small fleet, 
 destined for the conveyance of the exiles, left the shores of 
 England. It consisted of the " Sirus," the " Supply," three 
 store-ships, and six transports; having on board 565 male and 
 192 female convicts, with a guard consisting of a Major-com- 
 mandant, three Captains, 12 subalterns, 24 non-commissioned 
 officers, and 168 privates, all of the royal marines, with 40 of 
 the marines' wives and their children. Captain Arthur Phillip, 
 R.N., an experienced officer, was appointed Governor of the 
 projected colony, and Commander of the expedition, which, 
 after touching for supplies and stock at Teneriffe, Rio de 
 Janeiro, and the Cape of Good Hope, arrived in safety at 
 Botany -Bay in January, 1788, after a voyage of upwards of 
 eight months. 
 
 " On landing, Governor Phillip was received by an armed
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 91 
 
 body of the natives; but on seeing him approach alone, and 
 without any weapon, they returned his confidence by laying 
 down their own, and receiving him in a very friendly manner. 
 On proceeding to examine the bay, he soon found that, though 
 extensive, it was for various reasons ill adapted for the foun- 
 dation of a large settlement." He therefore determined to 
 examine another bay; but on his way thither he stopped to 
 investigate an inlet, marked on the chart as a boat-harbour, to 
 which Captain Cook had given the name of Port Jackson^ 
 from the seaman on the look-out by whom it had been descried. 
 On passing the lofty headlands which form the entrance of 
 this " boat-harbour," the astonishment of the Governor may be 
 conceived, when he found himself in a haven in which the 
 whole British navy might securely ride at anchor, navigable 
 for vessels of any burden for many miles from its mouth, 
 indented with numerous coves, and sheltered from every wind. 
 Thither the fleet was immediately removed; and on the 26th 
 of January, 1788, the British flag was hoisted on the shores 
 of Sydney-Cove, then thinly wooded, and abounding in 
 kangaroos. The silence and solitude of the forest were soon 
 bi'oken by the resounding stroke of the woodman's axe; the 
 ground was cleared, tents pitched, the live-stock landed, stores 
 deposited, and the little colony, consisting of 1,030 souls, now 
 established. Thus did the separation of the American colonies 
 from British rule lead to the colonization of Australia, which bids 
 fair, in the course of time, to rival, if not surpass, the prosperity 
 and greatness of the United States, and to communicate civil 
 and religious blessings to the numerous islands in the adjacent 
 seas. 
 
 June 16th. Examined Sydney, the capital of New South 
 Wales. It is built partly on a small promontory, and partly 
 in a narrow ravine or valley. The formation on which it stands 
 is a freestone rock, which passes inland for about two miles, 
 in undulating and nearly parallel ridges, in a direction almost 
 due south of that portion of Port Jackson generally known as 
 the stream or middle harbour, which, with Sydney-Cove and 
 Darling-Harbour, incloses the greater part of the city on three
 
 92 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 sides. The ridges decline as they recede from the middle 
 harbour, until they terminate" in the almost level plain, bounded 
 on the south by a transverse range of elevated rocks, known 
 as the Surrey-Hills, which comprise the southern suburb. The 
 streets, generally, are laid out at right angles ; 34 of them 
 have each a carriage-road of not less than 36 feet wide, and 
 a foot-path of about 12 feet. Their length varies from one to 
 three miles. Many are well paved or macadamized, regularly 
 cleansed, watered, and lighted with gas. George-street and Pitt- 
 street have continuous ranges of handsome cut-stone or brick 
 edifices, with shops that would do no discredit to Regent- 
 street or Oxford-street, London. The new Government-House, 
 which stands in a conspicuous position, overlooking Sydney- 
 Cove, is a very handsome structure, built of white freestone, in 
 the Elizabethan style of architecture, and forms a striking fea- 
 ture from the harbour, of which it commands a fine view. The 
 contrast is very great between this princely mansion and the 
 canvass house of the first Governor of New South Wales, or 
 the wretched wooden tenement in use for several years. 
 The different denominations of Christians have here their 
 respective places of worship, many of which are spacious and 
 highly ornamented ; and the Jews have a Synagogue. There 
 is nothing of a foreign aspect about the city. As I walked 
 through its bustling streets I could hardly realize the fact that 
 I was not in my native land. The houses, the shops, and 
 other buildings bear the English impress ; the carriages 
 including stage-coaches, waggons, cabs, and omnibuses are all 
 constructed as in England : the busy population, too, are all 
 English, or thoroughly Anglicised ; and so are the various 
 customs of life. In the goods displayed in the shops, in the 
 furniture found in the houses, in the grates with their 
 coal-fires, and in the style of living and mode of cooking 
 you have England, and England only. The popula- 
 tion of this very interesting capital, including its imme- 
 diate suburbs, is supposed to be about 70,000. It is rapidly 
 increasing, and doubtless destined to become an exceeding 
 great city.
 
 THE SOUTHERN WOULD. 93 
 
 1 7th. Through the kindness of Mr. and Mrs. Boyce I was 
 privileged this evening to meet all the Wesleyan Ministers and 
 their wives residing in and about Sydney. It gave me much 
 pleasure to find that my brethren fully sympathised with the 
 object of my mission, and that they expressed their willingness 
 to use all legitimate means for its successful promotion. One 
 Minister present had spent several years in the Polynesian 
 Islands, where he had been " in labours more abundant," and "in 
 deaths oft;" but whom God had " caused to triumph in Christ," 
 and "made manifest the savour of his knowledge in every 
 place" to which a gracious Providence had conducted him. I 
 had known this honoured servant of God in early life, and it 
 was deeply interesting to us both to meet again after the 
 lapse of 30 years, and to remember all the way which a kind 
 Providence had brought us. The hours of the evening glided 
 swiftly and pleasantly away, whilst we reviewed the past success 
 of the Gospel, and anticipated its future 'triumphs, in the 
 Southern World. 
 
 18th. Visited the "Government domain," a beautiful park, 
 with undulating surface, and many ornamental trees. It is 
 within the city boundaries, and at its entrance there is a fine 
 statue of Governor Bourke. As I passed through the domain I 
 saw a large flock of paroquets, of the brightest plumage, and 
 other birds of varied and splendid colour, peculiar to this land. 
 It is intersected with some tasteful walks, and is a place of 
 fashionable resort. 
 
 19th. Last Sabbath I preached in York-street Chapel twice, 
 but as the rain poured down in torrents the whole day my 
 congregations were small; to-day, however, I preached twice 
 in Surrey-Hills Chapel to crowded congregations, and was 
 pleased with their marked attention to the word of life. The 
 former chapel will accommodate 1,200 hearers, the latter about 
 800. Both edifices are commodious and respectable. I met 
 with parties here who had known me in boyhood; and others 
 who had, in London and in Cornwall, been formerly under my 
 pastoral charge. I had many inquiries to make, and not a 
 few to answer. Much pleasure attended the interview; and
 
 94 THE SOUTHEBN WOULD. 
 
 if it be so delightful in this imperfect state to meet with 
 Christian friends after the expiration of a few years, 
 
 " What heights of rapture shall we know 
 When round His throne we meet ? " 
 
 21st. Had a pleasant drive to Botany-Bay, near which is a 
 Gothic Wesleyan Chapel, erected on an eminence, and com- 
 manding a fine view of a most picturesque country. In the 
 immediate neighbourhood of Sydney the soil is generally light 
 and sandy, and, with the exception of a few acres here and 
 there, not likely to repay the labour of cultivation ; it is there- 
 fore to be regretted that the comparative sterility of the land 
 should have been made so apparent by the removal of its 
 timber, and the city deprived of that rich and beautiful 
 scenery which it would have otherwise possessed had the 
 woodman's axe been more sparing. On returning to Sydney 
 I passed through Hyde-park, an oblong piece of land in an 
 elevated part of the city, and which, but for its unfortunate 
 name, would have met with more favour from the British 
 traveller. Every person, however, who has been in the Hyde- 
 park of the " great metropolis," on seeing this Hyde-park of the 
 antipodes, immediately places it in humiliating contrast with 
 the former. Only think of a park without a tree! And of 
 Hyde-park, 40 acres in extent! And of that park, with all 
 its rich and elegant associations, not only freely used by the 
 laundress as a suitable place for drying linen, but exhibiting 
 a board on a pole with the following inscription : " Rubbish 
 shot here ! " Had this enclosure been called " The Green," or 
 " The Mount," it would have been much more appreciated ; 
 but to call it Hyde-park disappoints expectation, and even 
 excites merriment. The day being very fine, I visited the 
 Botanical Gardens. Their situation is a beautiful slope down 
 to a lovely peaceful bay, and is surrounded by the domain 
 encircling the Government-House on the one side, and by 
 nature in her wildest aspect on the other; and although at 
 this season of the year " Flora" appeared in her undress, yet 
 the leafless coral tree with its scarlet flowers; the Australian
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 95 
 
 stag-fern, sustained by air as it adhered to the wall ; and 
 the Norfolk-Island Pine, of exquisite gracefulness and beauty, 
 were particularly attractive and interesting. In the hot 
 weather these gardens, which are open to the public, must 
 furnish many a cool and delightful retreat. In the evening, 
 by the kindness of Mr. and Mrs. Boyce, I had the privilege of 
 meeting a large party of lay friends connected with the 
 Wesleyan church in this city. After obtaining such local 
 information, on various subjects of interest, as they were capable 
 of giving, the remaining portion of the evening was occupied 
 in considering the best means of promoting the revival and 
 extension of genuine religion in these rising colonies. The 
 conversation was entered upon with manifest zest, and I- have 
 no doubt will be beneficial in its results. 
 
 22d. This evening I preached to a large congregation in 
 York-street Chapel; and in the prayer-meeting held after the 
 public service the spirit of intercession was poured out in 
 a very remarkable manner, when several persons appeared 
 under deep conviction for sin, and a few professed to obtain 
 " peace with God through our Lord Jesus Christ." 
 
 23c/. To-day I dined on board the " Waratah" steam-ship, 
 and met with a select and very agreeable party of ladies and 
 gentlemen. In the afternoon, I embraced the opportunity of 
 going in a boat, with my esteemed friends Mr. and Mrs. Boyce, 
 to examine some of the many bays and coves of the unparalleled 
 harbour. The sea was like a placid lake. 
 
 2ith. This morning the weather was very cold, and there 
 was ice near the city. In the afternoon Mr. M'Arthur drove 
 me to the lighthouse at the " South-head," which commands, 
 on the one hand, a full view of the harbour, and on the other 
 the waters of the great Pacific. The wind was " fresh," and 
 the fine white sand, for which the neighbourhood of Sydney is 
 so celebrated, came in showers, covering the various patches of 
 cultivation with the appearance of driven snow, and rendering 
 our journey to the "head" very uncomfortable; but, on our 
 return, the rain descended, and completely changed the 
 scene. The drive, on a favourable day, must be equal, if not
 
 96 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 superior, in general interest to anything of the kind I have 
 ever seen. 
 
 In the evening I attended a tea-meeting, given in honour of 
 the Deputation. About 500 persons were present, all of whom 
 were in some way officially connected with the Wesleyan 
 churches in this land. The Rev. W. B. Boyce presided j and, 
 after an introductory speech of considerable point and humour, 
 introduced me to the meeting, when the following Address 
 was presented : 
 
 "REVEREND SIR, We, the Circuit-Stewards, on behalf of 
 the Meeting, do desire to congratulate you on your safe arrival 
 in this city. We unite with you in grateful acknowledgments 
 to the Great Head of the Church, who has signally preserved 
 you among the many dangers to which you have been sub- 
 jected ; and we trust that, notwithstanding the severe trial of 
 patience and nerve to which you have been exposed, the 
 voyage, and the subsequent sojourn in these colonies, will 
 prove beneficial to your personal health, and, in the results, 
 equally advantageous to the Wesleyan church. As the Depu- 
 tation from the Conference of the mother church in Britain, 
 we rejoice in your presence amongst us. It is now about 38 
 years since the introduction of Methodism into this part of the 
 world, Mr. Leigh, the first Methodist Preacher, having landed 
 in Sydney, August 1st, 1815, and having commenced the first 
 class-meeting on the 24th of that month. From Sydney the 
 work has spread through New South Wales, and the adjacent 
 colonies and islands. Hence, our city may claim to be con- 
 sidered as occupying the position of the spiritual Jerusalem of 
 Australia, New Zealand, and Polynesia. It is our desire, both 
 as a city and as a church, to retain this distinguished honour, by 
 afresh and more zealously identifying ourselves with the cause 
 of God, not only among our fellow-colonists, widely scattered 
 over this continent, but also with its Missionary work among 
 the numerous islands of the Pacific. We trust, as the result 
 of the new arrangements proposed by the Wesleyan Confer- 
 ence and Missionary Committee, which you are specially
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 97 
 
 deputed to lay before the Australian churches, an Australian 
 Connexion will be formed; which, while enjoying greater 
 freedom of action from the possession of its own Conference, 
 will yet, in all matters of doctrine and discipline, remain, 
 as heretofore, one with the Connexion at home. Though 
 separated by a vast distance from our friends at the antipodes, 
 we are, and mean to continue, one in heart with them. 
 The Methodist churches of Great Britain and Ireland are 
 our mother churches ; we are proud of our filial relationship ; 
 and therefore the Methodists of Great Britain, Ireland, and 
 Australia, must ever be one people, holding the same doctrine, 
 maintaining the same godly discipline, and carrying out the 
 same one object, that is to say, the spreading of vital godli- 
 ness throughout the world. We rejoice, also, that you will find 
 our churches in Australia in great peace among themselves, 
 composed AS they are of native colonists, and of emigrants 
 from the United Kingdom : our Australian, our English, Irish, 
 Scotch, and other members, know of no distinction of country 
 or race, but are all of them endeavouring to keep the unity 
 of the Spirit, in the bond of peace. We have long been 
 praying for a revival of the work of God among us. Our aged 
 Simeons have been waiting for the signs of spiritual power, 
 longing to see sinners saved, and believers yet more abundantly 
 blessed. It is our heart's desire and prayer to God that 
 what we have witnessed already may be but the drops which 
 betoken copious showers of blessing upon our churches; and to 
 Him will we ascribe all the glory," 
 
 In reply, I expressed my thankfulness for the kind and truly 
 constitutional Address with which they had favoured me, and 
 with them acknowledged my obligation to the Great Head of the 
 Church for His preserving care. He had conducted me through 
 fire and through water, and, to my inexpressible joy, had brought 
 me in safety to " a wealthy place." The object of my mission 
 was, undoubtedly, important. It was to effect such alterations in 
 the management of their ecclesiastical affairs as would tend to 
 give increased efficiency to the Wesleyan Body in the Southern
 
 98 THE SOUTHERN WOKLD. 
 
 hemisphere. After fully detailing the plan, I farther observed, 
 that I was glad to learn from their excellent Address that they 
 did not desire any mutilated or new form of Methodism among 
 them. They would therefore be pleased to know that, in the 
 new arrangement, provision would be made for the continued 
 maintenance of Methodism in all its essential, doctrinal, and 
 disciplinary principles. The Committee and Conference owed 
 this to the subscribers to our Missions, and to the members of 
 the Australian churches, as well as to the important trusts 
 with which they were invested. If, in some of the details of 
 the system, any slight modification should be proposed, it 
 would be to secure its more perfect adaptation to the stale 
 of these colonies, and, if possible, to render it still more efficient. 
 Since my arrival in the country, so far as I had seen the 
 Wesleyan churches in South Australia, Victoria, and New 
 South Wales, I had been greatly delighted with their harmony, 
 liberality, and evident desire for the revival and extension of 
 religion, and could not but anticipate increasing prosperity. 
 Upon their "spiritual Jerusalem," especially, I hoped showers 
 of blessing would descend, that, like Jerusalem of old, it might 
 send forth streams of living water, and become the means of 
 salvation to many people. 
 
 This reply was followed by several excellent speeches, 
 approving of the objects of my mission, and warmly advo- 
 cating the propriety of incorporating New Zealand and 
 Polynesia in the new arrangement. 
 
 25th. Met with an accomplished young lady. I had known 
 her in England; and on my asking if she still retained her 
 maiden name, she replied in the affirmative; and, moreover, 
 declared that she had been sadly disappointed in her anticipa- 
 tions. Before leaving England, she had understood, from what 
 was considered good authority, that, on her arrival in Australia 
 there would be quite a contest for her hand ; but, instead of 
 that, she had been nearly two years in the country, and no 
 gentleman had made advances in that direction. She, however, 
 consoled herself with the belief, that she was too good for the 
 market, and that had she either been a milkmaid or washer-
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 99 
 
 woman, she would doubtless long since have obtained a settle- 
 ment. 
 
 2Qth. The blessed Sabbath. I preached in Chippendale 
 Chapel in the morning, and in York-street Chapel in the evening. 
 The day was wet and cold ; and in the interior of the country 
 there was a heavy fall of snow. Our congregations, however, 
 were highly encouraging. 
 
 27th. Attended the Missionary Meeting in York-street 
 Chapel. The chair was well occupied by George Allen, Esq., 
 M.L.C., and the addresses were delivered by Ministers of 
 different denominations. The spirit of Missionary enterprise 
 evidently pervaded the assembly, and the meeting was said to 
 be, in every respect, the very best ever known in Sydney. 
 
 28th. For three days it had rained almost incessantly, and 
 only cleared up this morning about 9 o'clock; and yet the 
 streets of Sydney so soon dry, that in the afternoon the dust 
 was blowing about. On my mentioning this to a respectable 
 tradesman, he said that, one morning, a few years ago, after a 
 heavy storm of rain, he saw a boat in the street pass before his 
 shop; but as the weather became fine, the processes of evapo- 
 ration and absorption were so rapid and effective, that towards 
 the evening the whole city was enveloped in clouds of dust, 
 which prevented him from seeing across the same street where 
 the boat had so recently appeared. 
 
 29th. In Princess-street Chapel, a Missionary Meeting was 
 held this evening. It was well attended; and, as at the York- 
 street meeting, the propriety of attaching the Missions in 
 Polynesia to the Australian Connexion was advocated with 
 much power and eloquence, especially by the Rev. Messrs. 
 Boyce and Eggleston. 
 
 3(M. Started with Mr. A. M'Arthur, for Windsor, a journey 
 of 35 miles. I greatly enjoyed the drive. The road as far as 
 Paramatta, a distance of 15 miles, is well macadamized, and 
 passes over a gently undulating country. The primitive forest 
 exists on either side, with here and there patches of cultivation ; 
 but the soil generally is very poor. There are, however, several 
 cottages, some gentlemen's villas, and, I am sorry to say, many 
 
 F 2
 
 100 THE SOUTHERN WOKLD. 
 
 public-houses. We met a large number of persons on horseback, 
 most of whom were riding at great speed, and, with hardly an 
 exception, each rider had a short pipe in his mouth. In ap- 
 proaching Paramatta we passed a milkmaid-looking girl, driving 
 a cart. She was perched on the front of the rude vehicle with 
 the reins in one hand, and, although the day was bitterly cold, 
 a parasol in the other, shading her face from the sun ! On 
 reaching the town, we halted a short time at an inn, to feed our 
 horse; and the ostler having told me that he had been fourteen 
 years in Australia, I asked him how he liked the country. He 
 replied, that he did not at all like it, it was so stupid; and that 
 he greatly delighted to see real life. "What do you mean by 
 seeing real life 1 ?" I inquired. He immediately replied, "I mean 
 broken heads and peeled skins." I told him that I entertained 
 a very different opinion. That to see real life life in its 
 highest and best form was to see men devoted to God, doing 
 good to their fellow-men, and preparing for heaven. That was 
 the real life / liked to see. He looked amazed; and seemed 
 at a loss whether most to pity my ignorance or my want of 
 taste. On farther inquiry, I found that he had " left his 
 country for his country's good." The road from Paramatta to 
 Windsor we found extremely bad. To say nothing of the deep 
 ruts into which we were jerked, the mud was frightful, averaging 
 from one to two feet deep, of the consistency of putty. We 
 saw several farms on either side of the road which had been 
 redeemed from the forest; and some fields of wheat in the 
 blade promising a rich harvest. We passed several orange- 
 groves laden with fruit, and a few vineyards. It was indeed a 
 novel sight to behold on the same farm, in close proximity, the 
 vineyard, the wheat-field, and the orange-grove. One beautiful 
 property was pointed out as having belonged to a late 'convict, 
 who had died a few years ago, possessed of an immense fortune, 
 nearly half a million of money, but which I understand was 
 not realized either by industrious effort or fair dealing. "What 
 shall it profit a man, if he shall gain the whole world, and lose 
 his own souir On arriving within a mile of Windsor, the 
 country was flooded, rendering it impossible to reach the town
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 101 
 
 by horse and gig. We therefore took a boat, rowed over 
 several fences, and about 6 o'clock reached Windsor in safety, 
 where the Kev. Joseph Oram, and his excellent wife, gave us 
 a most hearty and hospitable reception. 
 
 July 1st. Rose early, and walked through the town, which 
 is situated upon the banks of the beautiful Hawkesbury, sur- 
 rounded by rich and well-cultivated farms, and commanding a 
 good view of the Blue Mountain range. Its streets are unpavedj 
 its buildings, with but few exceptions, mean ; and its general 
 aspect indicative of declining trade. No new houses were being 
 erected, and several old ones were becoming dilapidated. The 
 population of the town is about 2,000; and the Roman Catholics, 
 Episcopalians, Presbyterians, and Wesleyans, all have their 
 places of worship within its boundaries. The Episcopal Clergy- 
 man, I was sorry to hear, belonged to the Tractarian school, and 
 other Ministers, of superior apostolic piety, zeal, labour, and 
 success, he denouncedas unauthorized and im pertinent obtruders. 
 "Who art thou, that judgest another man's servant?" On 
 passing the Roman Catholic Chapel, I expressed my surprise 
 that it was without its usual symbol, the cross ; when I was told 
 that a like symbol having been placed upon the English Church, 
 the Puseyitish apery so offended the Romish Priest that he 
 caused that which surmounted the tower of his own chapel to 
 be instantly removed. 
 
 In the afternoon I drove to Richmond, a town four miles 
 from Windsor, containing a population of 800 persons. It is 
 beautifully situated on the skirts of the Blue Mountains, with 
 a highly cultivated tract of rich land adjoining, called " The 
 Bottoms." We held a Missionary Meeting in a very neat 
 Wesleyan Chapel. The congregation, in consequence of the 
 late flood, was small, consisting only of 20 men, 40 women, and 
 30 babies ! Of course I looked out for squalls, but was happily 
 disappointed, for not a baby in the congregation uttered a 
 cry! Whether this was to be attributed to the soothing 
 eloquence of the speakers, to the talents of the nurses, or to 
 the superiority of Australian babies, I attempt not to decide ; 
 but certainly the absence of baby-noises was to me matter of
 
 102 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 great thankfulness. In the evening, after returning through 
 one of Nature's splendid parks, I preached in Windsor. The 
 chapel was well attended, and Ministers of different denomina- 
 tions were present, who, with true catholicity of feeling, gave 
 me a hearty welcome to Australia. 
 
 I could not but regret that these towns were called Windsor 
 and Richmond, as they bear no resemblance to those seats of 
 royalty in the mother country ; and the names not only occasion 
 disappointment, but very naturally provoke invidious com- 
 parison. It would have been more satisfactory to the English 
 traveller had their euphonious native names been retained and 
 perpetuated. 
 
 2d. Started for Paramatta, and on our way saw several flocks 
 of paroquets, and other birds of rich plumage, shining in the 
 sun like sparkling diamonds, or flashing like burnished gold. 
 We met with parties from the interior, and learned that in 
 some parts of it the absence of the Gospel ministry had occa- 
 sioned deep moral degradation. It appears that some time ago 
 a Clergyman was on a visit to a squatting district far in the 
 bush, and, after holding a religious service, children from one 
 to twelve years of age were brought to him for baptism. He 
 administered the ordinance, and gave some advice to the 
 parents, when one of them stood up in the congregation and 
 said, " There are three or four more children, but we could not 
 catch them." This forcibly reminded me of " the wild ass's 
 colt," to which Job compares degenerate man. " We could not 
 catch them !" What a state of society does this one fact reveal ! 
 It seems that the children, thinking baptism was some dreadful 
 operation about to be performed upon them, had escaped to the 
 bush, and concealed themselves in the thicket. And, certainly, 
 until better instructed, the bush rather than the font is their 
 place. On reaching Paramatta, I was kindly received by Mr. 
 and Mrs. William Byrnes. When informed that they had eleven 
 children, the eldest being but sixteen years of age, I did not 
 expect much quiet; but, happily for all parties, I found them 
 well disciplined and deeply interesting children. What a 
 blessing to a visitor ! How very different is the family circle, to
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 103 
 
 a stranger especially, when children are allowed to ask for 
 everything they see, to interrupt the conversation by imperti- 
 nent questions, and to enforce every claim they make by bursts 
 of passion and shrieks of anger ! Mrs. Byrnes " looketh well to 
 the ways of her household, and eateth not the bread of idle- 
 ness. Her children arise up, and call her blessed ; her husband 
 also, and he praiseth her." 
 
 3d. The return of the holy Sabbath. I preached twice 
 in the Wesleyan Chapel. The congregations were large and 
 respectable, and listened to the word of life with more than 
 ordinary attention, but appeared very stoical. The day was 
 cloudy and threatened rain, which occasioned in some much 
 anxiety lest the people should be prevented from attending the 
 public service, and the Missionary cause, which I was about to 
 advocate, thereby suffer loss. I endeavoured to allay the fears 
 thus excited, by stating: 1st, That rain does not descend by 
 mere chance, but our Father in Heaven "sendeth rain upon 
 the evil and upon the good;" 2d, That He orders the weather 
 according to wisdom, equity, and love, whether we perceive it 
 or not, and we should therefore acquiesce in His arrangement; 
 3d, That He is more concerned for the prosperity of the 
 Missionary cause than we are ; and whatever seeming obstacles 
 the elements may at any time place in opposition to its progress, 
 it is that certain graces may be elicited, more earnest prayer 
 presented at His throne, and ultimately greater good accom- 
 plished. This view of the subject appeared to produce the 
 desired effect. 
 
 4:th, Walked through the town, which is built upon the 
 banks of the Paramatta River, and is, properly speaking, the 
 head of Port Jackson. Its main street, which is macadamized, 
 is about a mile long, and extends from the country residence 
 of the Governor to the wharf, where the view down the river 
 is extremely interesting. Several public buildings in the town 
 and "neighbourhood are very respectable. The Government- 
 House is a neat erection, where the Governor spends a portion 
 of the year. Here are two Orphan Schools, one Protestant, 
 the other Roman Catholic; a Jail, King's School, Observatory,
 
 104 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 military Barracks, and military and general Hospitals. Courts 
 of Quarter Sessions, Courts of Requests, and Petty Sessions are 
 held in a handsome Court-House, equal, I understand, if not 
 superior to any in New South Wales. The population of the 
 town is about 5,000, and for its religious accommodation there 
 are two Episcopal Churches, two Wesleyan Chapels, two Scotch 
 Churches, one Baptist Chapel, and one Roman Catholic Chapel. 
 Both coaches and steamers ply between Paramatta and Sydney 
 several times a day. The situation of the town, in a valley, 
 must render it exceedingly hot during the summer months. 
 The soil in the neighbourhood is not much cultivated, it being 
 too poor at present to repay the labour of the husbandman. I 
 
 called upon Mrs. , who was the first child born of 
 
 European parents in New South Wales, and the first white 
 female married in the colony. 
 
 In the evening we had a most excellent Missionary Meeting. 
 James Byrnes, Esq., presided on the occasion, and delivered a 
 very appropriate address. The meeting was also addressed by 
 the Rev. Messrs. Mansfield, Morris, Eggleston, and others, with 
 great power and effect. The Rev. Ralph Mansfield was 
 formerly a highly respectable Wesleyan Missionary in these 
 colonies, and as he is possessed of most acceptable and useful 
 talents, I could not but regret, on hearing him this evening, 
 that he should have retired from the active work of the 
 ministry. My mind, however, was greatly relieved by the 
 consideration that he is still a worthy member of our church, 
 generally preaching every Sabbath-day, and laudably exerting 
 himself in other ways to promote the interests of the Saviour's 
 kingdom. 
 
 5th. I had arranged to start this morning with the Rev. B. 
 Chapman for Bathurst, 130 miles from Sydney, but the state 
 of the roads described in the following extract of a letter from 
 that district, written on the 2d instant, prevented me. The 
 writer says, " It is rarely that the Australian eye is feasted with 
 anything approaching an English winter landscape; but the 
 home recollections of those to whom such scenes have been 
 familiar were awakened on Thursday morning by the appearance
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 105 
 
 of the country, which was one unbroken sheet of white, hill, 
 plain, and valley; and, contrary to our past colonial experience, 
 this continued throughout the day. For the first time during 
 many years past, the schoolboys enjoyed the pleasure of snow- 
 balling each other, and their seniors that of smiling at the old 
 country amusement. The streets and roads are, of course, in 
 an awful state, a passage along the former resembling mortar- 
 treading mor a near'y than anything we can imagine, whilst the 
 latter are cut up and trampled into a continuous puddle, which 
 is all but impassable." I returned to Sydney, hoping that 
 some more favourable opportunity would offer for my visiting 
 Bathurst and its surrounding gold-fields. 
 
 Glh. The " Adelaide" steamer having been duly surveyed, 
 was pronounced unseaworthy; and therefore to be laid up 
 until the Directors in London could be consulted. The Com- 
 pany, no doubt, expected she would have proved a first-rate 
 vessel, an expectation fully warranted by the sum expended 
 in her building; but they had been deceived, and the lives of 
 her crew and passengers fearfully endangered. Her defects 
 were found to be so numerous, that her reaching Sydney at 
 all was thought little short of a miracle, and to be attributed 
 to the watchful cave of a kind Providence, probably granted in 
 answer to many prayers. " He that made the sea and all that 
 therein is keepeth truth for ever." 
 
 7th. The Rev. Dr. Woolley and his lady called upon me. 
 The Doctor is the Senior Professor of the University of Sydney, 
 and a Clergyman of the Church of England, happily, not 
 restrained by the contracted and exclusive views of Tractarian- 
 ism, but possessing a legitimate Protestant catholicity. The 
 University was established by Act of the Legislative Council of 
 the colony of New South Wales, passed in the Session of 1850. 
 The members of the Senate were appointed by proclamation of 
 His Excellency the Governor-General, dated 24th December of 
 that year, and met for the first time on the 3d February, 1851. 
 The principles recognised and enforced in the Act of Incor- 
 poration are thought liberal and catholic. The benefits of the 
 University are, as stated in the preamble, " for all classes and
 
 106 THE SOTJTHEKN WOKLD. 
 
 denominations of Her Majesty's subjects resident in the colony 
 of New South Wales, without any distinction whatever;" and it is 
 expressly enacted, " that no religious test shall be administered 
 to any person, in order to entitle him to be admitted as a student 
 of the said University, or to hold any office therein," &c. 
 
 The government of the University is provided for by the 
 appointment of a Senate of sixteen Fellows, four of whom may 
 be Clergymen. The Rev. William B. Boyce, the General 
 Superintendent of the Wesleyan Missions in Australia, is one 
 of the four; and from the acknowledged ability with which he 
 discharges his duties in the Senate, he does credit to that 
 religious Body with which he is connected. 
 
 In addition to the entire management of the educational 
 and financial affairs of the University, the Senate has power to 
 make by-laws as to discipline, degrees, honours, &c., which, 
 when duly approved of by the Governor and Executive Council, 
 have the force of law. It has also authority to confer the 
 degrees of Bachelor and Master of Arts, and Bachelor and 
 Doctor of Laws and Medicine. 
 
 An endowment of 5,000 per annum is provided by the 
 Act of Council; and, out of this fund, provision has been made 
 for eighteen scholarships of the annual value of 50 each, to 
 be held for periods not exceeding three years. An additional 
 scholarship, of equal value, has been founded by the liberality 
 of a public-spirited gentleman, and is to be granted as the 
 reward of peculiar proficiency in mathematical and physical 
 science. 
 
 Although the University has no Theological Professorship, 
 such an appointment being obviously inexpedient in a com- 
 munity possessing no dominant church, yet, the establish- 
 ment of colleges by the several religious denominations, it is 
 thought, will, in due time, supply the deficiency, without 
 interfering with the unsectarian character of the University. 
 The Government has granted to the University 150 acres of 
 land, beautifully situated in the immediate suburbs of the city, 
 in the centre of which the University is to be erected. The 
 Episcopalians, Presbyterians, Roman Catholics, and Wesleyans,
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 107 
 
 have each received a grant of 20 acres of the 150, as sites for 
 their respective colleges ; and each college is to have an 
 endowment of 500 annually. 
 
 8th. To-day I examined several papers in relation to State 
 grants for church purposes. It appears that, by an Act of the 
 Governor and Council of New South Wales, 7 William IV. 
 No. 3, 29th July, 1836, entitled, "An Act to promote the 
 Building of Churches and Chapels, and to provide for the 
 Maintenance of Ministers of Religion in New South Wales," it 
 was provided that certain annual allowances, varying in pro- 
 portion to the number of signatures presented in favour of each 
 party, should be paid by the Colonial Treasury to Ministers 
 of religion, irrespective of any reference to peculiarities of creed 
 or religious denominations. That, in conformity with this, an 
 Act of the Imperial Parliament, 5 and 6 Victoria, Cap. 76, 
 30th July, 1842, was passed, entitled, "An Act for the Govern- 
 ment of New South Wales and Van Diemen's Land," by which 
 "the sum of 30,000" was appropriated to be paid annually, out 
 of the revenue of New South Wales, to Her Majesty, for the 
 purposes of public worship ; and that, in consequence of the 
 recommendation of the Governor and Executive Council of 
 New South Wales, 9th June, 1845, Her Majesty the Queen in 
 Council, in the instructions given to His Excellency Sir Charles 
 Fitzroy, directed how the above sum of 30,000 should be 
 apportioned. 
 
 The same "Act to promote the Building of Churches and 
 Chapels, and to provide for the Maintenance of Ministers of 
 Religion in New South Wales" also directs " That whenever a 
 sum not less than 300 shall have been raised by private con- 
 tribution, and applied towards the building of a Church or 
 Chapel, and a dwelling, where the same may be deemed neces- 
 sary, for the officiating Minister thereof, in any part of the said 
 colony, it shall be lawful for the Governor, with the advice of 
 the Executive Council, by warrant under his hand, and subject 
 to such regulations for the due appropriation and application 
 thereof as shall from time to time be made by the said 
 Governor, to issue from the Colonial Treasury, in aid of the
 
 108 
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 undertaking, any sum of money not exceeding the amount of 
 the said private contributions : Provided always that the whole 
 amount so to be issued from the Colonial Treasury in aid of any 
 Church or Chapel, and Minister's dwelling, shall not exceed 
 1,000, and that no sum shall be so issued in aid of any private 
 contributions unless such contributions shall be paid up and 
 expended within three years from the date of the first issue 
 from the Colonial Treasury on behalf of the said undertaking." 
 The Act also provides that " Free seats, amounting to not less 
 than one-sixth part of the whole of the sittings in every such 
 Church or Chapel, shall be appropriated and set apart for the 
 use of poor persons resorting thereto." The Government, like- 
 wise, in every township, on due application being made by any 
 of the religious Denominations, makes a grant of two acres of 
 the Crown land as sites for the erection of Chapels, Schools, and 
 dwellings for Ministers. 
 
 Some members of the Wesleyan community in Australia 
 object to all State grants, and especially to those made for the 
 " maintenance of Ministers of Religion : " but others feel the 
 need of such aid, especially in the country districts, and are 
 thankful for it. Besides, they say that a certain sum is set 
 apart by the State for religious purposes, and if the Wesleyans, 
 who are offered their fair and legitimate proportion t of that 
 sum, according to the last census, refuse to receive it, the 
 amount will not be retained in the Treasury for secular 
 purposes, but allocated amongst other churches in the country. 
 9th. In the examination of several official documents, I met 
 with a chronological record, illustrative of the rise and progress 
 of the colony of New South Wales, of which the following is 
 an abridgment. 
 
 In 1789, one year after the establishment of the colony, the 
 first harvest was reaped (at Paramatta). In 1790, the first 
 settler (a convict) took possession of the land allotted to him. 
 In 1791, the first brick building was finished. In 1793, the 
 first purchase of colonial grain, (1,200 bushels,) by Government, 
 was made. In 1794, the first church was built. In 1800, the 
 first copper-coin was circulated. In 1803, the first newspaper
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 109 
 
 was printed. In 1805, the first colonial vessel was launched. 
 In 1810, the first census was taken, and the Free-school, toll- 
 gates, police, and Sydney market were established. In 1813, 
 the first fair was held. In 1815, the first steam-engine began 
 to work. In 1817, the Supreme Court, and first Bank were 
 originated. In 1818, the Benevolent Society was formed. In 
 1819, the Orphan Institution was founded, and the first 
 Wesleyan Chapel was opened. In 1820, the first spirits were 
 distilled, and the first colonial tobacco was sold. In 1822, the 
 freedom of the press was conceded, and the first Agricultural 
 and Reading Societies were instituted. In 1824, the Charter of 
 Justice was granted, the Legislative Council appointed by the 
 Crown, and the first Court of Quarter Sessions was held. In 
 1826, the first criminal jury was empanneled, the first Arch- 
 deacon ordained, the first coroner appointed, and the first 
 constitutional country-meeting held. In 1827, the first daily 
 newspaper was issued. In 1829, the first Circuit Court 
 was opened. In 1830, the first civil jury was empanneled, and 
 the first college founded. In 1831, the first colonial steam- 
 boat was built. In 1832, the first Savings'-bank was instituted. 
 In 1833, the Mechanics' School of Arts was formed, and a 
 monthly magazine was began. In 1834, land sold in Sydney 
 at 20,000 per acre. In 1835, the first Protestant Bishop of 
 Australia was appointed. In 1840, sheep sold for Is. 6d. each, 
 and thousands were " boiled down" for the sake of their tallow. 
 In 1842, Sydney was incorporated, with a population of 40,000 
 citizens. In 1850, there were in the colony 12,000,000 sheep, 
 2,000,000 horned cattle, 150,000 horses, and 100,000 pigs. A 
 grant was made to the colony of a Representative Assembly 
 and responsible Government. 
 
 "The rapid strides by which New South Wales has acquired 
 its present position are so extraordinary as to raise fears for 
 its duration. These fears would be only too well grounded, if 
 the future prospects of this extensive country, and of its 
 increased population, depended solely upon pastoral pursuits. 
 Had New South Wales no agricultural capabilities, no mineral 
 wealth,- no fisheries, then indeed might the colonists look for-
 
 110 THE SOUTHERN WOBLD. 
 
 ward, with melancholy foreboding, to the time when her vast 
 pastures would be over-thronged, as the epoch which sooner 
 or later must arrive, and mark the period of decadence. But 
 the pastoral age is the primitive step in the history of a people 
 possessed of the varied elements necessary to constitute a 
 mighty and permanent empire. The reason is sufficiently 
 evident; the pastoral resources of a newly discovered region 
 are naturally the most readily available to the settler, who from 
 thence obtains not only present sustenance, but the means of 
 developing the less prominent, but more intrinsically valuable, 
 capabilities of the soil." 
 
 The colonists themselves are not disposed to consider their 
 fine country as a vast "sheep-walk," or to restrict their energies 
 to the multiplication of flocks and herds. The first steps in 
 the progress from the pastoral to the agricultural state have 
 been taken with most encouraging success. In 1850 the 
 colony not only grew sufficient grain for the consumption of 
 its own people, but exported a considerable quantity. To say 
 nothing of its gold-fields, and its various mineral riches, it is 
 capable of producing the vine, the olive, and the mulberry; 
 cotton, sugar, tobacco, hemp, and timber, to an almost in- 
 calculable extent; all which products are in constant demand 
 in Europe. Humanly speaking, therefore, the welfare of the 
 colony rests on a sound basis, and, with the blessing of Divine 
 Providence, its future greatness may seem as marvellous to our 
 descendants as the position it has already attained appears to 
 those whose lengthened space of life has enabled them to 
 watch its progress from the infant, starving, struggling, penal- 
 settlement at Sydney-Cove, to the present flourishing colony of 
 New South Wales, with its precocious, energetic, and wealthy 
 offspring Victoria. 
 
 But, whilst contemplating this prosperity, I met a wretched- 
 looking native, whose unhappy condition originated a very 
 different train of thought from that which I had been in- 
 dulging. I remembered the unmitigated wrongs inflicted 
 upon his people by the march of colonization; that the early 
 settlers had from various motives cut them off, under cir-
 
 THE SOUTHEBN WOULD. Ill 
 
 cumstances of revolting cruelty, and apparently without 
 remorse. I remembered that disease for which they knew no 
 remedy, and the spirit bottle whose deadly influence they had 
 not previously felt, had been introduced among them by the 
 white man, and with fearful rapidity were effecting their 
 destruction. I remembered that should they, according to the 
 present ratio, continue to decrease in number, they would ere 
 long be swept away by the tide of emigration, and, as a race, 
 become extinct. As these things occupied my mind, I could 
 not but deeply lament that so little, comparatively, had been 
 done by the Christian Church to save this miserable and greatly 
 injured people. A few attempts, at different times, had been 
 made, but, certainly, not commensurate with the necessities of 
 the case; and these efforts having failed to produce all that 
 was expected and desired, the work, to a great extent, had 
 been abandoned as a hopeless undertaking. But whence 
 arises this paralyzing scepticism 1 Are the aboriginal inhabit- 
 ants of Australia not men 1 ? Has not the God of love included 
 them in the world's redemption 1 ? And does not the great 
 apostolic commission to disciple all nations- apply to these as 
 well as to other dark tribes'? The work of evangelizing them 
 may be unpromising, but it presents no greater difliculties 
 than those which, in other parts of the heathen world, have 
 been overcome. 
 
 In visiting the Sydney market, in the evening, my attention 
 was called to the fruits and culinary vegetables of New South 
 Wales, as being numerous and of excellent quality. " In a 
 small garden at Paramatta," says Martin, "I had the apple, 
 pear, peach, nectarine, apricot, loquot, quince, cherry, plum, 
 melon, pineapple, citron, orange, grape, mulberry, walnut, 
 gooseberry, strawberry, raspberry, and currant, all in full per- 
 fection. So abundant is the peach, that in many places I have 
 seen the farmers feeding their pigs with the windfalls of their 
 teeming orchards." The late Allan Cunningham, during his 
 explorations in the interior, was often refreshed and nourished 
 by finding peach trees scattered about the forests, where they 
 had grown from stones planted by bushrangers, and from
 
 112 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 having been dropped by birds. In grateful recognition of the 
 benefits thus received as a weary and fainting traveller, 
 Cunningham always carried about him a bag of peach-stones, 
 which he planted on every occasion in suitable places. The 
 small settlers make a cider and a brandy from their peach 
 fruit. 
 
 Among other fruit-trees, besides those above named, are the 
 almond, which flourishes remarkably well, and the banana, in the 
 more northern positions of the colony. " The fig tree produces 
 two crops in the year, without any farther trouble than that of 
 planting: the fruit is of the finest flavour, abundant in 
 quantity, presses well, and will probably become a valuable 
 article of export." Grapes of every variety are very plentiful, 
 and are now being dried as raisins, as well as extensively 
 manufactured into wine, brandy, and vinegar. Melons, water 
 and sweet, grow almost wild in New South Wales. The farmers 
 scatter a few seeds among their corn, and they thrive so 
 luxuriantly as to be scarcely an article of sale except in towns. 
 They sometimes attain a size of 24 pounds weight. The lemon 
 flourishes as hedgerows. The orange arrives at a degree of 
 perfection greater than I have witnessed in the West Indies. 
 The mulberry thrives in every part of the colony, and its 
 growth may be augmented to an almost indefinite extent for 
 the feeding of silkworms. The walnut, filbert, and chestnut 
 are in perfection, especially the filbert, which is of a size and 
 flavour unsurpassed. All the culinary vegetables of Europe are 
 of large size and excellent quality. Potatoes, carrots, parsnips, 
 turnips, onions, peas, beans, cabbages, spinach, artichokes, aspa- 
 ragus, celery, cucumbers, radishes, seakale, rhubarb, &c., which 
 are produced in New South Wales, would be highly prized in 
 Covent-garden market. The various beautiful flowers which 
 adorn the gardens of England are extensively cultivated in the 
 colony, where they obtain a magnitude and beauty which add 
 to their natural charms. 
 
 10th. The holy Sabbath. In the morning I preached at 
 Newtown, in a very neat Gothic Chapel, to a good congrega- 
 tion, but was grieved to learn that some of the hearers had
 
 THE SOUTHEBN WOULD. 113 
 
 received the Morrisonian heresy, and others the Winchesterian 
 views of future punishment. Some say that it matters little 
 what a man believes, if his life be right. But belief influences 
 actions; and if a man's creed be essentially wrong, his life 
 must be more or less influenced by it, and cannot therefore be 
 right. 
 
 In the evening I preached in York-street Chapel. The 
 weather being very unpropitious, and influenza prevalent, I 
 expected a slight attendance, but was pleasingly disappointed. 
 The chapel was well filled, and although we had no manifesta- 
 tion of feeling, we had deep and most encouraging attention 
 to the preached word. A public prayer-meeting, attended with 
 some blessed results, concluded the services of this tempestuous 
 day. 
 
 12th. Yesterday being so thoroughly wet and stormy, I did 
 not leave the house. This morning a person of great peculiarity 
 
 called upon me, whom Mr. B , with his usual hospitality, 
 
 asked to take breakfast. It appears that this was an individual 
 who had, some time ago, so frightened the ladies by his shouting 
 whilst I was preaching in York-street Chapel, that a magistrate 
 present ordered him to be taken out by policemen, and placed 
 in the watchhouse. The next day, being brought before the 
 police-court, he declared that he had only said Amen! and as 
 no one appeared against him, he was discharged. The case 
 was reported in the papers; and as it seemed a new phase in 
 Methodistic history for a man to have been taken to the watch- 
 house for saying Amen, I felt somewhat uncomfortable; and 
 especially as it was intimated by some, that the Australian 
 Connexion about to be formed would undoubtedly discard the 
 " vulgar practice of saying Amen ! " I knew, too, that it was 
 quite possible for the party who had been thus dealt with to 
 be a sincere, though mistaken man, and was therefore very 
 anxious to have an opportunity of conversing with him. That 
 opportunity was afforded this morning. Whilst at breakfast I 
 referred to the extraordinary noise he had made in the chapel, 
 and asked for an explanation, when he said, the power of God 
 was upon him, and he could not help it. He having spoken
 
 114 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 of his conversion, I requested that he would give some farther 
 account of it, when he began somewhat incoherently, but 
 suddenly stopping, said, " I will have my cup of coffee first." 
 By the time that he had finished, it was the hour for family 
 worship, and all the members of the household were collected. 
 Whilst the Scriptures were being read, he, in a sharp, shrill, 
 and most unearthly voice, abruptly cried out, so as to electrify 
 the whole circle, and lift nearly all present some inches from 
 their seats. One lady shrieked, and in a state of "terror rushed 
 out at the open window. After reading the Scriptures, we 
 had prayer; and whilst I was engaged in that devotional 
 exercise his noises were so loud and startling that some of the 
 family, alarmed, hastened out of the room ; the servants tittered ; 
 and one gentleman, in a state of powerful excitement, rose from 
 his knees, and, in attempting to reach the door, stumbled over 
 my feet, displacing sundry articles of furniture. In such cir- 
 cumstances it was quite impossible to be devout, and I therefore 
 abruptly closed the service. One of the servants was a Roman 
 Catholic, and said she understood that this was something in 
 our religion which came down once a year! This unexpected 
 and fearful interruption of family worship gave me an oppor- 
 tunity of showing to this " weak brother" the impossibility of 
 his being under Divine influence, as he professed, when his 
 proceedings produced such effects. I also explained to him 
 the scriptural rules of order and edification, as laid down by 
 St. Paul, but failed to produce any favourable impression, and 
 felt fully convinced, from the whole of his proceedings this 
 morning, that he was labouring under some mental aberration. 
 I told him so ; but it is a very difficult thing to convince a man 
 that he is crazy. 
 
 15th. Sir Charles Nicholson, the Speaker of the Legislative 
 Council, called upon me. He expressed great catholicity of 
 sentiment, and I found him exceedingly intelligent and agree- 
 able. At present the colony is ruled by a Governor, aided by 
 an Executive Council consisting of the Colonial Secretary, 
 Auditor-General, Attorney-General, Treasurer, &c. The Legis- 
 lative Council consists of 54 members, 18 of whom, including
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 115 
 
 the members of the Executive Council, are nominated by the 
 Government, and 36 elected by the people. The late Act 
 of the Imperial Parliament, however, will alter this arrange- 
 ment, and more fully assimilate the Colonial to the Home 
 Government. 
 
 16^. Visited the University, and met with a gentlemanly 
 reception from the professors. Dr. Smith, Professor of 
 Chemistry and Experimental Physics, showed me some beauti- 
 ful specimens of Australian minerals. It appears that this 
 colony has not only its coal and gold fields, but also its iron, 
 copper, and tin, of excellent quality and in great abundance. 
 "0 Lord, how manifold are thy works!" "The earth is full of 
 thy riches." Dr. Smith also conducted me through the 
 Museum, in which there are specimens of several rude 
 aboriginal productions, and the perfect skeleton of a huge sperm 
 whale. The buildings at present occupied by the University 
 are but temporary, and will be superseded by more stately and 
 appropriate erections. 
 
 \7tli. The Christian Sabbath j and I had the pleasure of 
 hearing Mr. Boyce in Princess-street Chapel. His subject was 
 the Parable of the Pharisee and Publican, and his sermon was 
 quaint, terse, faithful, and exceedingly pointed, " a new sharp 
 threshing instrument, having teetk." In the evening I preached 
 in York-street Chapel, and as the weather was favourable the 
 place was crowded. 
 
 18tk. Rose early, and had a walk before breakfast. I 
 plucked a Mandarin orange, covered with the sparkling dew, 
 and found it exceedingly delicious. This kind of orange, 
 though smaller than that which grows in Europe or the West 
 Indies, possesses a much finer flavour, but is not yet extensively 
 cultivated in this country. 
 
 During the day I examined the Census Schedules of the 
 population as found on 1st March, 1851, in the colony of New 
 South Wales, and ascertained the following results : 
 SEX AND AGE. 
 
 Under two years Males, 6,473 Females, 6,361 
 
 Two, and under seven ,, 15,734 15,519
 
 116 
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 Seven, and under fourteen Males, 14,480 Females, 14,384 
 
 Fourteen, and under twenty-one .. ,, 9,047 10,920 
 
 Twenty-one, and under forty-five . . 44,697 27,593 
 
 Forty- five, and under sixty 12,529 5,042 
 
 Sixty, and upwards , 3,341 1,195 
 
 Total 106,229 81,014 
 
 SOCIAL CONDITION. 
 
 Married Males, 30,002 Females, 30,363 
 
 Single 76,227 50,651 
 
 CIVIL CONDITION. 
 
 FREE. 
 
 Born in the colony, or arrived free .. Males, 81,226 Females, 76,695 
 
 Other free persons, formerly bond .. 22,397 4,232 
 
 BOND. 
 
 Holding tickets of leave Males, 1,986 Females, 46 
 
 In Government employment 594 32 
 
 In private assignment 26 9 
 
 RELIGION. 
 
 Church of England 93,137 Roman Catholics 56,899 
 
 Church of Scotland 18,156 Jews 979 
 
 Wesleyan Methodists .... 10,008 Mohammedans and Pagans 852 
 Other Protestants 6,472 Other persuasions 740 
 
 EDUCATION. 
 
 UNDER TWENTY-ONE YEARS. 
 
 Cannot read Males, 22,772 Females, 22,253 
 
 Read only 8,240 9,593 
 
 Read and write 14,686 1 5,338 
 
 ABOVE TWENTY-ONE YEARS. 
 
 Cannot read Males, 12,475 Females, 7,000 
 
 Readonly 7,222 6,842 
 
 Read and write , 40,834 1 9,975 
 
 COUNTRY WHERE BORN. 
 In the colony Males, 40,665 Females, 
 
 In England 
 
 In Wales 
 
 In Ireland , 
 
 In Scotland 
 
 Other British dominions 
 In Foreign countries 
 
 35,012 
 376 
 
 20,440 
 6,531 
 1,118 
 2,078 
 
 40,726 
 
 16,101 
 
 181 
 
 18,219 
 
 4,376 
 
 837 
 
 573
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 117 
 
 OCCUPATION. 
 
 Commerce, Trade, and Manufacture 12,423 
 
 Agriculture 1 1,898 
 
 Shepherds, and persons in management of sheep 11,449 
 
 Stockmen, and persons in management of horses and cattle 4,170 
 
 Horticulture 930 
 
 Other labourers 10,875 
 
 Mechanics and artificers 5,857 
 
 Domestic servants, male 3,853 
 
 Domestic servants, female 6,594 
 
 Clerical profession 283 
 
 Legal profession 207 
 
 Medical profession 326 
 
 Other educated persons 2,188 
 
 Alms-people, pensioners, paupers, &c 694 
 
 All other occupations 6,337 
 
 Residue of population 109,159 
 
 Total 187,243 
 
 HOUSES. 
 
 Stone or brick 13,509 
 
 Wood 18,153 
 
 Total 31,662 
 
 It is more than two years since this census was taken, and 
 during that period the population has greatly increased. It 
 is true that the tide of emigration has been diverted chiefly to 
 Victoria, but still many persons have come to this colony; 
 for, according to the " Statistical Return," the population on 
 December 31, 1852, was 208,254; and it is believed, on satis- 
 factory evidence, that it is now about 220,000, and will no 
 doubt rapidly increase.
 
 118 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 CHAPTEE VI. 
 
 SCHOOLS Australian Board of Missions Emancipated convicts 
 Public Library Convict establishment Sydney District-Meeting 
 Wesleyan College More Ministers wanted Government immigrants 
 Atheist reclaimed New Constitution Bill Speeches on the second 
 reading A fallen Minister imprisoned Death-adder Debate in the 
 Council New Exchange Arrival of Missionaries from Polynesia 
 Dust-storm. 
 
 I VISITED some of the Wesleyan Schools in Sydney on the 
 19th of July. There are six of them; and, although not so 
 satisfactory as some of our schools in England, they are never- 
 theless encouraging. The Glasgow system and the monitorial 
 plan appear to be blended in their management, but in some of 
 them there is a great lack of order. The children are receiving 
 a good plain education, and some are making considerable pro- 
 ficiency. All the schools, except one, receive Government aid. 
 
 In the colony of New South Wales there are National and 
 Denominational Schools, both of which receive State support. 
 For the year 1852, the former received 5,500, the latter 
 9,803 16s. 7d The National Board of Education have a 
 Normal Training Institution, and 50 schools, with 3,658 
 scholars. The Denominational Board for the same year report 
 163 schools, with 12,557 children. 
 
 The Census for 1851 contains the following particulars: 
 
 CHURCH OF ENGLAND. 
 
 Schools. Children on Books. Grant. Childrens' Fees. Average Cost. 
 92 5,496 4,020.. 2,555 2s.0d...l Ss. lid. 
 
 PRESBYTERIANS. 
 
 42 2,140 1,900.. 1,001 18s. 4d...l 7*. l\d. 
 
 WESLEYAN METHODISTS. 
 
 15 1,080 570.. 802 7s. 7<*...1 5s. 5d. 
 
 ROMAN CATHOLICS. 
 
 36 2,865 1,800.. 871 Is. 8<*...0 19s. 0|d. 
 
 Ill the National Schools a portion of a day every week is
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 119 
 
 set apart for the religious instruction of the children, on which 
 day such pastors or other persons as are approved of by the 
 parents or guardians of the children may have access to them 
 for that purpose; but the members of the Board complain that 
 very few of their schools receive visits from any religious 
 instructor. The Government also supports two Orphan Schools 
 at Paramatta, the one Protestant and the other Roman 
 Catholic. Last year the sum of 2,002 15s. 8d. was appro- 
 priated to the former, and the sum of .1,851 10s. lid to the 
 latter. 
 
 The state of education in the colony is seen from the Census 
 Returns of 1851. According to that census, 90,823, or nearly 
 one-half of the entire population, could read and write; 31,897 
 more could read; and 54,513 could do neither the one nor the 
 other, but that number, of course, included all children in a 
 state of infancy. 
 
 20th. In the evening I attended a meeting of the Austral- 
 asian Board of Missions, convened to hear the Report of the 
 Missionary Bishops, who had visited, in the "Border Maid" 
 ship, several islands of the Pacific. The meeting was held in 
 the school-room, Castlereagh-street, and about 400 persons 
 might be present. The Archdeacon of Sydney, a venerable 
 old man, presided, and spoke with much propriety and effect. 
 Amongst other good things, he said, that at his advanced age 
 he would willingly traverse the uttermost parts of the earth, 
 if he might be the instrument of bringing one sinner to 
 repentance; a noble sentiment, and worthy of a Minister of 
 Him who came from the glory and happiness of heaven to the 
 reproaches and sufferings of earth, to seek and to save that 
 which was lost.. The Bishop of Newcastle spoke with much 
 modesty and good taste ; and gave a graphic sketch of his 
 visit to the New Hebrides and the Solomon-Islands. The 
 Bishop of New Zealand, whose appearance is attractive, and 
 who is doubtless a man of extraordinary enterprise, greatly 
 interested me. His manner, spirit, and manly eloquence, are 
 all calculated to make a favourable impression. He is said to 
 have some Tractarian infirmities, but on this occasion they did
 
 120 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 not appear: nor do I think it possible for such exclusive, 
 narrow, and uncharitable views, as are held by Tractarians, long 
 to exist in connection with that noble, expansive, and ardent 
 spirit of Missionary enterprise which genuine Christianity 
 inspires. They are more suited to the cloister than to the 
 platform, to the censorious Pharisee than to the catholic 
 evangelist, to the stoic, with his icicle encasing, than to the 
 Christian Missionary whose heart is on fire to save the world. 
 Nine youths, whom the Bishops had brought from the different 
 islands they had visited, and who had been for some time 
 receiving instruction in New Zealand, were present at the 
 Meeting, and excited considerable interest. One of them is a 
 native of Waikane, one of Lifu, one of Mallicolo, one of 
 Erornanga, and five of Mare, or Nengone. They are to be 
 sent back to their respective islands, to prepare the way for 
 Missionary labour. 
 
 21 st. Had some conversation with a person who had for- 
 merly been a convict, but who was now a free man. There are 
 many such in the colony, and some of them are in good circum- 
 stances. It appears that from the formation of the colony of 
 New South Wales, until it ceased to be a penal settlement, it 
 received 52,000 male, and 8,706 female convicts, making a 
 total of 60,706. This number does not, of course, include 
 those transported to Van Diemen's Land. According to the 
 census of 1851, there were at that period only 2,606 males 
 and 87 females remaining in bonds; but there were 22,397 
 males and 4,232 females who had once been convicts, but had 
 legitimately obtained their freedom, making a total of 26,629, 
 or one-seventh of the whole population. This state of society 
 is likely to be somewhat startling to those who have just 
 arrived with all their English feeling; but they will very soon 
 find that there is no inconvenience arising from it ; that many 
 of the emancipated are truly reformed characters, and some of 
 them in circumstances of worldly prosperity. They are seldom, 
 however, admitted into the family-circle of those who have 
 never been in bonds, the usages of society forbidding it ; but 
 they are not taunted, and where there is genuine reformation,
 
 THE SOUTHERN WOBXD. 121 
 
 their former unhappy condition is not referred to, nor is any 
 stigma attached to their children. 
 
 22d. Returned the call of Sir Charles Nicholson. His 
 residence, in the suburbs of the city and overlooking the 
 harbour, is highly picturesque. He received me and my friend 
 Mr. Boyce with much politeness, showed us through his exten- 
 sive and valuable library, and was exceedingly agreeable. On 
 returning, I spent some time in the public library, which 
 contains a large collection of books, a great variety of 
 periodicals, and is amply furnished with European newspapers. 
 Those who have never been out of England can form but little 
 idea of the zest with which I devoured the English news. 
 Rumours of war between England and France had reached the 
 country, and created not a little anxiety, especially amongst 
 those of us who had left behind beloved families and friends; 
 but, thanks to Him who "stills the tumult of the people," the 
 peaceful aspect of affairs in Europe, communicated by the late 
 arrivals, happily allayed our fears and removed anxiety. 
 
 Leaving the library, I passed several rich and beautiful 
 shops ; and as I was not in ecstasies, a friend who accompanied 
 me said, " Why don't you admire them T On my telling him 
 I did admire them, he directed my attention to a window in 
 which were some fine engravings, and said, " Are we not a 
 great and rising people?" As I smiled and said nothing, he 
 further added, " These are beautiful engravings ; why do you 
 not praise them?" I replied, that I should most readily do so 
 had they been the product of this young colony, but they were 
 all from England. " Ah," said he, " we have no time to do 
 such things here. In England you are making pictures, whilst 
 here we are making nations!" There is a great deal of what 
 is called " Colonial bounce " in this country, which has oftqn 
 reminded me of an occurrence some years ago in New York. 
 Being on a visit to that city, I attended the opening of one of 
 the Colleges, and heard from all the speakers a great deal in 
 praise of the United States. On my returning to my lodgings, 
 the American gentleman who had accompanied me very 
 sarcastically said, " I have long known that this country is the 
 
 Q
 
 122 
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 wisest, the richest, the greatest, and the strongest nation in 
 the world; and I now calculate that I shall soon hear at one 
 of these public meetings that it is also the oldest /" This 
 " colonial bounce," however, is simply the result of rapid pros- 
 perity, and not indicative of any feeling of disloyalty. There 
 may be exceptions, but, as far as I have been able to judge, 
 the people of these colonies are warmly attached to the mother 
 country, and will doubtless continue so while the Imperial 
 Government treats them wisely. 
 
 24:th. The Lords-day. I preached twice, to large congre- 
 gations, in the Surrey-Hills Chapel. I met with a person 
 recently from England, who had once " run well," but whom 
 Satan, through the instrumentality of what was called " the 
 reform movement," had effectually " hindered," and placed in 
 circumstances of deep wretchedness. He spoke to me with 
 considerable embarrassment, and appeared ashamed of the 
 divisive course he had pursued, but declared that he had been 
 thoroughly deceived and ruined by designing men. "Bread of 
 deceit is sweet to a man; but afterwards his mouth shall be 
 filled with gravel." ' 
 
 26th. Letters from home! "As cold waters to a thirsty 
 soul, so is good news from a far country." 
 
 27th. By the kind invitation of the Attorney-General, and 
 a member of the Legislative Council, I visited Cockatoo Island. 
 It is situated in the harbour of Port Jackson, and is the only 
 Convict Establishment in New South Wales. We found 
 upwards of 300 convicts, who were generally employed in 
 making a dock, 276 feet long by 76 wide, cut out of the solid 
 rock, which will afford great accommodation when finished. 
 The Superintendent took us through the whole establishment, 
 which was beautifully clean, and apparently well regulated. 
 The island is only about 20 acres in extent, and yet there is 
 sufficient rain-water caught upon it to supply the whole of its 
 population. Several convicts were in the hospital, and as one 
 of them was said to be " sinking fast," I spoke to him on the 
 necessity of a preparation for another world : his heart became 
 affected, tears rolled down his deeply furrowed cheeks, and
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 123 
 
 with great emotion he said, "God has heard my prayer; and I 
 am not afraid to die." This unexpected reply led me to insti- 
 tute an inquiry as to his views of the plan of salvation, and the 
 foundation of his confidence and hope ; when, to my increased 
 surprise and delight, he replied that he had been a grievous 
 sinner, and had no goodness of his own; but that Jesus had. 
 died for sinners, and his only trust and hope was in Him, 
 whose blood cleanseth from all sin. This afforded me a good 
 opportunity of speaking to others in the hospital; and I hope 
 the seed thus sown may spring up, and bear fruit to the glory 
 of God. 
 
 The Superintendent keeps several parrots, one of which we 
 found talked well. Some time previously the Governor had 
 visited the establishment, and on passing the cage where the 
 loquacious bird was kept, it exclaimed, " Charley, my boy ! 
 Pretty Charley ! " The parrot had been taught that phrase ; 
 but as the Governor's name was Charles, the strange coincidence 
 produced a burst of laughter, in which the parrot, I under- 
 stand, heartily joined. 
 
 On returning from the Island, we rounded " Long-nose 
 Point," also "Billy Blue's Point," passed "Snake Island," 
 " Spectacle Island," " Goat Island," and " Pinch-gut Island," 
 names certainly not very classical, nor yet in accordance with 
 the inspiring scenery of the splendid harbour, 
 
 28th. The Annual District-Meeting of the Wesleyan 
 Ministers in New South Wales commenced its sittings. The 
 usual inquiries as to moral character, belief of our doctrines, 
 observance of our discipline, and ability for the work of the 
 Ministry, were faithfully made and most satisfactorily answered. 
 These yearly examinations are of great importance both to the 
 Ministers and the people of their charge, tending, as they do, to 
 preserve the purity, orthodoxy, and efficiency of the Ministry. 
 
 Two candidates were examined. One of them had been a 
 disciple of Socinus, but having been convinced of his error, 
 had mercifully escaped from the soul-destroying heresy, and 
 with great earnestness offered himself as a Missionary to 
 Feejee. The other, the son of one of the first Wesleyan 
 
 o2
 
 124 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 Missionaries to New Zealand, evinced the advantages of a 
 good religious training, but for the present restricted his offer 
 to the Australian Colonies. Both passed their examination 
 creditably, and were recommended to be received on trial. 
 
 Having stated to the Meeting the object of my deputation, 
 a free discussion took place, and highly satisfactory resolutions 
 were unanimously adopted on the subject. The propriety of 
 uniting the Missions in New Zealand and Polynesia with the 
 Australian Conference was also brought before the Meeting, and 
 resolutions passed most cordially recommending the measure. 
 
 29th. The Circuit Stewards attended the Meeting, and 
 carefully examined the financial state of the District. I was 
 much pleased with the constitutional principles they main- 
 tained, and the fine spirit they manifested in the discharge of 
 their duties. Having alluded to the object of my visit to the 
 country, I stated that, as I found a very general desire to 
 incorporate in the new arrangement New Zealand, Feejee, and 
 the Friendly Islands, I should like to elicit their opinions on 
 the subject. After a free conversation, in which I showed the 
 desirableness of such a measure, and how it might be effected, 
 and the Missions sustained by Australia, the laymen unani- 
 mously passed the following Resolution : 
 
 " That this Meeting, having heard the statement made by 
 the Rev. R. Young with reference to the proposal of attaching 
 the Missions in New Zealand and the Polynesian Islands to the 
 Australian Conference, do cordially approve of the principle of 
 the proposed arrangement, and hereby pledge themselves to 
 use their utmost exertions to secure its accomplishment." 
 
 30th. Some conversation having taken place in the Meeting 
 on the subject of the contemplated Wesleyan College to be 
 placed in connexion with the Sydney University, an earnest 
 desire was expressed that a suitable building should be erected 
 with as little delay as possible; when the Rev. B. Hurst, one 
 of our indefatigable Missionaries, who had recently come into 
 the possession of considerable property, made an able and truly 
 Christian speech on the duty and blessedness of giving, and 
 concluded by offering the noble sum of 1,000 towards the
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 125 
 
 proposed erection. Nor was this all. More Ministers being 
 greatly needed to enter promising doors of usefulness in many 
 parts of the colony, he also offered 100, if 400 more could 
 be raised, to pay the passage of six young Ministers from 
 England; and moreover stated that he felt contributing largely 
 to the cause of God was the best check to penurious tendencies. 
 " A faithful and wise steward." 
 
 31st. /Sabbath-day. In the morning I had the pleasure of 
 hearing the Rev. John Eggleston preach in Toxteth-park Chapel. 
 The sermon was clear and powerful, and had it been delivered 
 with less rapidity would have been still more so. Towards the 
 close, it was a thunder-storm, but one through which Calvary 
 was seen; and if the lightning flashed so as to excite alarm, 
 it was that sinners might flee for refuge to the cross of Jesus. 
 In the evening I preached in York-street Chapel, after which 
 an interesting prayer-meeting was held. 
 
 August 1st. Two young men, having finished their probation, 
 were examined, and recommended for ordination to the full 
 work of the Ministry. A letter referring to one of them, was 
 received from a Clergyman of the Church of England, in which 
 he spoke of him in high terms as a fellow-labourer. Certainly 
 there is much more Christian charity in this catholicity than 
 in those contracted and unamiable spirits who, under the 
 influence of Tractarian exclusiveness, exclaim, " The temple of 
 the Lord, the temple of the Lord are we!" 
 
 3d. This evening I preached the " District Sermon " in 
 York-street Chapel. The Ministers were all present ; and, 
 although there was an exciting political meeting held in one 
 part of the city, and a popular lecture on science being delivered 
 in another, yet the chapel was full. At the conclusion of the 
 public service, the sacrament of the Lord's supper was ad- 
 ministered, and some hundreds of the people remained to 
 receive with their Ministers the sacred emblems of the Saviour's 
 broken body and shed blood. It was indeed a solemn and most 
 profitable season. 
 
 5th. A tea-meeting was given by Mr. M'Arthur to the 
 Ministers and principal members of the Wesleyan churches in
 
 126 m sorraExs WORLD. 
 
 the city. About 500 persons were present, and some ex- 
 cellent addresses were delivered bj both Ministers and laymen. 
 The following Resolutions were then adopted with great 
 cordiality. 
 
 "That, as it hath pleased Almighty God to raise the 
 Wesleyan churches in this part of the world to a state which 
 warrants their official separation from the British Conference, 
 we embrace this opportunity of expressing our very great 
 pleasure in being favoured with the presence of the Eev. 
 R. Young, and our hearty concurrence in the object of his 
 on. 
 
 "That, as the Eer. R Hurst has kindly offered the sum of 
 100, provided that 400 additional can be raised, towards 
 bringing six young Ministers from England to New South 
 Wales, this Meeting, convinced of the importance of entering 
 the many providential openings which are presenting them- 
 settes in the interior of the colony, hereby expresses its 
 sympathy with the object, and pledges itself to raise the 
 required amount." 
 
 The Rev. W. B. Boyce, the chairman, then stated that they 
 were now prepared to receive contributions to meet the offer 
 of Mr. Hurst ; and, in a few minutes, the sum was subscribed 
 with so much cheerfulness, that double the amount might have 
 been realized. The Wesleyans in these colonies are far from 
 being parsimonious, and many of them evince a liberality 
 indicative of great nobility of soul, as well as high Christian 
 principle. 
 
 Bfk, This morning the sittings of the District-Meeting 
 closed, all of which had been marked with the most entire 
 harmony. The Wesleyan Ministers of this colony are a highly 
 respectable dass of men, and well fitted for the important 
 position they must occupy in this rapidly advancing country. 
 Comparison would be invidious, but there are men here pos- 
 sessed of very considerable talent and efficiency; and all of 
 them seem intent upon spreading scriptural Christianity 
 throughout the land. Certain Resolutions respecting the 
 Deputation were placed on record. [Note C.~\
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 127 
 
 7th. The return of the Lord's-day. I heard the Ber. R 
 Hurst preach in York-street ChapeL He took his text from 
 Igpjfth riL 1 ; and his sermon, though said to be too long, was 
 nevertheless evangelical, experimental, energetic, and well 
 calculated to be useful A fine specimen of plain Gospel 
 preaching. Not tinsel, but bullion. I once heard it said by a 
 facetious gentleman, that when a Minister became rich he 
 generally began to "expectorate blood," and allege that he 
 could not any longer sustain the exertion of preaching. Not 
 so, however, with Mr. Hurst Nor is it likely that the man 
 who has the heart to give to Methodism in one week the noble 
 sum of 1,100 will ever be found in that category. 
 
 10th, Several vessels having lately arrived in this port with 
 Government immigrants, the following advertisement will show 
 how they -were disposed of. It appeared in this morning's 
 paper: 
 
 ''The single female immigrants, per ships 'Earl of Elgin' 
 and ' Empire.' Some of the unmarried females by the above 
 vessels being still disengaged, they can be hired this day and 
 following days, between the hours of 2 and 4 o'clock in the 
 afternoon, at Hyde-park Barracks. Persons not known at the 
 Immigration Department, applying for female servants, wifl be 
 required to produce letters of introduction from a Clergyman 
 or Magistrate." 
 
 On the arrival of a Government immigrant ship, the official 
 agent proceeds on board, and requests the Master to make 
 immediate arrangements for landing the unmarried females. 
 When landed, they are, with their luggage, conveyed to the 
 Institution prepared for their reception, and placed under the 
 care of the Matron. They are permitted to remain there for 
 some days after their arrival, and provided with all conveni- 
 ences necessary to enable them to wash their clothes, and 
 put themselves in a state of readiness for taking service. 
 While in the Institution, they receive religious instruction 
 from the Chaplain attached to the department, whose duty it 
 is to perform divine service twice a day, and to visit in the 
 infirmary such of the immigrants as may be removed there for
 
 128 THE SOUTHERN WOELD. 
 
 medical attention. He is also requested to attend at the 
 hiring of the young women, and to assist in procuring them 
 suitable employment. The inmates who belong to the Romish 
 church are visited by their Priests and Sisters of Charity. 
 When the young women are prepared for entering into 
 service, a day is then named for hiring them ; and, in addition 
 to its being published in the Government Gazette, it is 
 notified in the daily newspapers, as seen in the advertisement 
 quoted. Not only are publicans and persons keeping houses 
 of entertainment prohibited from hiring servants at the 
 Institution, but all others are obliged to obtain orders of 
 admission into the hiring-room, by application to the authorized 
 agent; and persons whom he does not know are required to 
 produce letters of introduction from a Clergyman or Magis- 
 trate. Thus is great solicitude manifested to shield the 
 young women from evil, and to place them in suitable 
 positions. After being placed in service, the protection of 
 Government is still continued to them. If they become 
 invalided, they are admitted into the Infirmary, and maintained 
 there at the public expense until their recovery, when they are 
 again received into the Institution, and provided with other 
 situations. Should any of them be improperly treated in 
 service, they secure redress at the Police-court. 
 
 During the last three years, ending December 31st, 1852, 
 the immigrants sent out to this colony at the public expense 
 amounted to 10,905. Males, 4,860; females, 6,045; who are 
 thus officially classified: Natives of England, 3,185; Scot- 
 land, 780; Ireland, 6,916; other countries, 24. The total 
 outlay paid from the territorial revenue of New South Wales 
 on account of these immigrants amounted to the sum of 
 330,531 4s. 5d. During the same period, the official returns 
 show that 5,096 immigrants, paying their own expenses, had 
 arrived in the colony. 
 
 14^. Sabbath. I preached in the morning in Surrey-Hills 
 Chapel, and in the evening at York-street. Both places were 
 filled; and the congregations were highly respectable and 
 attentive. " What must I do to be saved?" was the important
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 129 
 
 question which a broken-hearted sinner proposed to me at the 
 conclusion of the evening service. It appears that this individual 
 had for many years lived opposite one of the Wesleyan chapels 
 in London, but had never attended its services : that, on the 
 invitation of a friend, she had come to York-street Chapel 
 to hear "the gentleman recently from London;" and the 
 sermon having, by the Divine blessing, awakened her con- 
 science, she was anxious at once to seek the forgiveness of sin, 
 and to consecrate herself to God. I gave her such advice as I 
 deemed suitable; and left her with the full persuasion that 
 she was " not far from the kingdom." 
 
 15th. This morning a young man called upon me for pas- 
 toral advice. It appeared from his statement that he had been 
 apprenticed to a Deist, and, unhappily, imbibed the views of 
 his master. Nor did he stop here, but became a confirmed 
 Atheist, not in pretence merely, but really such, and a bold 
 advocate of that form of unbelief. About five years ago, how- 
 ever, while preparing himself, by reading and study, to become 
 the champion of his party, he was convinced of his error, and 
 by degrees embraced the Christian verities. He earnestly 
 desired and sought the comforts of Christianity, and with that 
 view strictly attended to moral duties ; but had failed to 
 realize the object of his desire, and was on the point of giving 
 up the pursuit as hopeless, when last evening, being led provi- 
 dentially to York-street Chapel, he discovered two things which 
 he had not previously known; viz., that he was a helpless, perish- 
 ing sinner; and that he had been attempting to make himself 
 worthy of God's attention and blessing. This discovery had 
 given an entirely new aspect to his case, and rendered him 
 exceedingly wretched. His spirit, however, was manifestly 
 humble and contrite, and I preached unto him Jesus. It would 
 be a great benefit to many were they to seek pastoral advice 
 when under the convincing power of Divine truth. To make 
 a Minister acquainted with their views and feelings would not 
 only secure his sympathy, advice, and prayers, but tend to 
 commit them to the service of God, and would be in perfect 
 accordance with scriptural precedent : " Now when they heard 
 
 GO
 
 130 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 this they were pricked in their hearts, and said to Peter and 
 to the rest of the Apostles, Men and brethren, what shall we 
 do?" 
 
 16th. This evening I attended the Legislative Council, to 
 hear the debate on the second reading of the " New Constitution 
 Bill," proposed for the colony. That Bill provides for an Upper 
 House, and a Lower House, the former by the nomination of 
 the Crown, and the latter by the election of the people. The 
 clauses of the Bill which provide for the composition of the 
 Upper House having created much excitement in the colony, 
 and led to the holding of a public meeting in Sydney, the 
 second reading of the Bill was looked forward to with con- 
 siderable interest, and I was obligingly furnished with the 
 " Speaker's order" to be present. The debate was opened by 
 Mr. Wentworth, a gentleman of considerable celebrity, and- 
 reputed the most popular speaker in the Council. His appear- 
 ance, however, did not much impress me in his favour. He 
 wore a drab coat, with large pearl buttons; and the said garment 
 hung so loosely upon his person, that it might have been 
 warranted not to fit. Altogether, his aspect and manners 
 strikingly resembled those of an English yeoman, labouring 
 under some infirmity of temper on his return from a falling 
 market, and indicated an approaching storm. He began with 
 some hesitancy of speech, but became more fluent as he pro- 
 ceeded; and, when assailing principles opposed to his views, 
 and denouncing men hostile to his measures, his spirit became 
 fired, his voice elevated, and his eloquence thrilling and power- 
 ful. In the course of his speech, he spoke of certain parties in 
 terms by no means flattering, and certainly not in accordance 
 with good taste. Of his constituents he said, that " they were 
 the most vacillating, ignorant, and misled body of people in the 
 colony;" and of the Sydney merchants, that "those lords of 
 the Exchange, as they called or thought themselves, the colony 
 could do well without. All they had done for him he could have 
 done for himself;" and that they were "a filthy community." 
 The people who had got up the public meeting he declared 
 were " vapid declaimers," " ignorant of what they declaimed
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 131 
 
 against." " All that they were fit for was to talk and to 
 threaten;" and that " they railed with insane vehemence." Of 
 the members of the Council who had attended that meeting he 
 remarked, that "they had disgraced the position which the legis- 
 lature of the country ought to occupy;" "consented to sink 
 themselves from the rank of representatives to that of mere 
 miserable delegates," and they were " weathercock politicians." 
 
 Speaking of Dr. 's book on the colony, he said, that " it was 
 
 abominable trash;" and if the ministers and people of England 
 sought their knowledge of the colony from that book, they "could 
 not seek it from a more depraved and polluted source;" and 
 parties who had impugned his motives, he represented as 
 beneath his notice ; and yet he denounced them as " dirty 
 libellers," " democratic vagabonds," and " paltry ruffians." All 
 these offensive epithets were expressed with considerable 
 feeling, whilst the askanced looks of the speaker, as he glanced 
 upon the whole house, told of the fearful perturbation within. 
 However, notwithstanding these abatements, his speech was 
 marked with great ability, and advocated high and constitu- 
 tional principles with telling effect. He spoke for upwards of 
 four hours, and was listened to with attention and manifest 
 interest. 
 
 llth. This morning I married the Rev. J. W. Pemell, a 
 laborious Missionary in the interior, to Eliza Ann Abraham, 
 likely to make him a suitable wife. In the evening I met a 
 select party of friends at the house of the Rev. R. Mansfield, 
 and preached to a good congregation in Balmain Chapel. Here 
 I became acquainted with the particulars of a most melancholy 
 case. An individual, then incarcerated in Sydney common 
 jail, was formerly a Wesleyan Minister in England; but having 
 been more than once brought to the bar of the Conference, on 
 charges preferred against him, he left the Connexion, and de- 
 clared himself thoroughly dissatisfied with the discipline of the 
 Body. Soon afterwards he united himself with another section 
 of the Church; and, being a man of considerable talent, re- 
 ceived an appointment to an important Mission-station. How 
 he discharged the duties of his new position I know not; but
 
 132 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 he soon left it, and found his way to this attractive country. 
 Here he entered upon secular pursuits; and being accused, and 
 clearly found guilty, of a most fraudulent transaction in which 
 he showed his want of common sense as much as his want of 
 common honesty, he was sentenced to hard labour for three 
 years in jail, and was then suffering the penalty. " Be sure 
 your sin will find you out." 
 
 18th. Had a ramble in the "bush," and met with a snake, 
 I think the death-adder; but, happily, the repulsive reptile 
 seemed more alarmed than myself. In some species of the 
 snake-tribe found in this country the bite is said to be harm- 
 less; in others it produces violent inflammation; and in a few 
 the venom is so subtile as to cause death in a short time. 
 Among the latter, the small one, commonly called the death- 
 adder, is the most rapidly fatal of all. Several instances of 
 immediate death from its bite have occurred in the colony. In 
 two cases, on which inquests were held, the evidence proved that 
 in one instance death ensued in seven minutes after the bite, 
 and in the other in eight, the sufferers being scarcely con- 
 scious of having been hurt, so very slight had been the puncture, 
 and so wonderfully subtile the poison. In other cases, not 
 fatal, much suffering is occasioned by the bite. " A bullock- 
 driver," says a respectable squatter, " returning late one even- 
 ing from a sheep-station with his team, was bitten in the ankle. 
 On reaching home, he came directly to report his accident, 
 and said that he shortly expected great agony. The venomous 
 fluid began to operate visibly in about twenty minutes after 
 the bite. There was but little external swelling. A death- 
 like chill came over the suffei'er, which was so strong, that 
 although he was placed in front of a large fire, and covered 
 with blankets, and the weather was very sultry, his flesh was 
 as cold as ice, and his teeth chattered in his head : the chill 
 was in his blood. Soon a reaction took place : intense heat 
 succeeded its opposite extreme, and the man ran out into 'the 
 open air to cool himself, for he had suddenly become as hot as 
 fire. Next came delirium, which, after a time, gave place to 
 nausea and headache. The patient then began slowly to
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 133 
 
 recover, and before daybreak was out of danger; though, he 
 was so worn and haggard in the morning, that it seemed as if 
 the effects of the venom, in the course of a single night, had 
 added five years to his age. It was a painful sight to witness, 
 for we could do nothing to alleviate his sufferings, and looked 
 on in constant expectation of his death." 
 
 19tk. Married Mr. Alexander M'Arthur, the son of a late 
 Irish Wesleyan Minister, a gentleman of wealth and respecta- 
 bility, to Maria Bowden, second daughter of the Rev. W. B. 
 Boyce. The wedding guests included Episcopalians, Presby- 
 terians, and Independents, as well as Wesleyans, and formed a 
 kind of Evangelical Alliance Meeting. " Behold how good and 
 how pleasant a thing it is for brethren to dwell together in unity." 
 
 20th. The weather, though cold, and rendering fires still 
 indispensable, was nevertheless most beautiful, and Flora began 
 to show herself. A snowdrop was plucked, and the almond 
 trees, putting forth their pure blossoms, told that summer was 
 approaching. 
 
 21st. Preached this morning in York-street Chapel. A 
 collection was made for the Wesleyan poor, especially to relieve 
 those who had, as immigrants, recently arrived in the city, and 
 required some assistance. The amount realized was very 
 creditable to the congregation. Notes 5, gold 3, silver 
 28 15s., and copper 1\d, ; making a total of <36 15s. 1\d. 
 The almost entire absence of copper was remarkable, especially 
 as many working-people were present, and all appeared to give. 
 In the evening I preached at Toxteth-park Chapel, which will 
 accommodate 200 persons, and is quite a gem of its kind. It 
 was built by George Allen, Esq., Member of the Legislative 
 Council, and its worship is generally conducted by himself 
 every Sabbath morning. He married Miss Bowden, the 
 daughter of a gentleman who was the principal instrument of 
 obtaining, in 1815, the appointment of a Wesleyan Missionary 
 to' this country. Since that period, what hath God wrought ! 
 In Sydney, and its immediate suburbs alone, we have six 
 Ministers, and twelve Chapels which will comfortably accommo- 
 date 5,000 persons.
 
 134 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 The Sabbath, in Sydney, I found much more observed than 
 I had expected. I saw no riot, nor disorder of any kind in the 
 streets; neither did I see any shops open, save here and there 
 a small fruit-shop ; and, certainly I witnessed much less outward 
 desecration of the Sabbath than is frequently seen in the towns 
 and cities of Old England. 
 
 22d. To-day, as I walked through Sydney, the traffic, es- 
 pecially in Pitt-street and George-street, with the numerous 
 omnibuses and coaches running to and fro, reminded me of 
 some of the thronged and busy thoroughfares in London. It 
 is doubtless designed to be a great commercial city. Its 
 relative position is favourable; its harbour, for extent, con- 
 venience, and security, is unparalleled ; and when railways shall 
 be opened into the interior, as contemplated, and the country's 
 resources rendered available, it will no doubt become one of 
 the busiest marts in the world. Its site, too, has been happily 
 selected for effect, as well as for utility; and, as it possesses 
 inexhaustible quarries of fine stone for building, it is sure, as 
 already indicated by splendid structures, to become as great in 
 architectural beauty as in commercial prosperity. Nor is it 
 unreasonable to expect that, with its University and other 
 scholastic institutions, together with its numerous places of 
 worship, it will also bear the still higher impress of intellectual 
 and moral greatness, and become the most attractive city of 
 the Southern World. 
 
 23d Attended the Legislative Council. The debate on 
 the " Constitution Bill " was resumed by Mr. Darval, who 
 sought to answer Mr. Wentworth's arguments in favour of a 
 nominated Upper House, and ridiculed the idea of creating 
 a Peerage in New South Wales, with hereditary rights of 
 legislature, as proposed by the Bill. This clause had occa- 
 sioned considerable excitement out of doors, and not a little 
 ridicule. Its opponents had designated the forthcoming Peerage 
 " Mushroom Lords," " Botany-Bay Nobility;" and proposed 
 titles for some of them sufficiently mortifying, and irresistibly 
 laughable. Against the nomineeism of the Bill, and especially 
 against its hereditary element, was the speech of Mr. Darval
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 135 
 
 mainly directed. The speaker was fluent, but not impassioned; 
 clear and plausible, but not powerful. Less forcible than Mr. 
 Wentworth, but more courteous; and if he did not use arguments 
 more cogent than his political opponent, he employed 
 language much more befitting a deliberative assembly. He 
 spoke three hours ; and might have been listened to with more 
 pleasure, had he not been what Mr. Wentworth called a 
 "political weathercock." He felt that he lay under this 
 imputation; and defended himself by stating that he acted 
 more correctly in changing his conduct as the result of changed 
 opinions, than if he were, with such changed opinions, still to 
 persist in the same course of action, as some honourable 
 gentlemen did, for the sake of appearing consistent. He was 
 
 followed by Mr. , whose speech, I understand, was 
 
 intended to support the Bill; but it was so irrelevant, that it 
 might as well have been delivered in favour of a railway to 
 the moon. He spoke with a somewhat soft and effeminate 
 lisp, recited poetry like a precocious schoolboy, and painted 
 in vivid colours the natural scenery of Greece. He animad- 
 verted upon the English constituencies, and especially those 
 of London, Birmingham, Nottingham, Manchester, and Liver- 
 pool, for having elected certain Representatives, and 
 proceeded, amidst bursts of laughter, (which the honourable 
 gentleman evidently regarded as the effects of his wit, 
 whereas they were occasioned by the absurdities perpetrated,) 
 with his most extraordinary speech. The debate was then 
 adjourned. 
 
 24:th. I was again present at the Legislative Council. Mr. 
 Martin, a rising member, was the first speaker; and, in his 
 speech on the Bill, evinced considerable research and inde- 
 pendence. He replied to the sentiments expressed by Mr. 
 Darval with amusing tact, and turned the laugh of the House 
 upon that honourable member with telling effect. In speaking 
 of the people he said, that no word in the English language 
 was more misunderstood than that of the "people." It doubt- 
 less signified the whole community, and ought not therefore to 
 be limited in its application to a mere portion of it, and that
 
 136 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 portion not the most respectable. The people, as legitimately 
 understood, were entitled to respect and consideration; but 
 not those parties calling themselves the people, without any 
 stake in the country; and who, under the influence of designing 
 demagogues, sought to trample upon the principles of the 
 British Constitution. For such people he entertained the most 
 sovereign contempt. The honourable gentleman possesses 
 many of the elements of a good orator. He has confidence, 
 ambition, independence, and power of voice; but he will never 
 attain the position of an eloquent speaker until he acquires 
 more freedom of utterance, and a less indistinct enunciation. 
 I was greatly delighted to find in this debate, from both sides 
 of the House, expressions of ardent loyalty to our Queen, and 
 the repudiation of Republican principles in relation to this 
 great country. Mr. Martin spoke two hours: after which the 
 House was addressed by the Attorney-General, a Roman 
 Catholic, who is represented by Protestants as being " as good 
 a man as he can be with such a creed." In the course of his 
 speech he referred to one of the Romish Priests, who had been 
 meddling with the Bill, and said that it only convinced him 
 that "a good Priest might be a miserably bad politician." The 
 debate was then adjourned. 
 
 25th. The foundation-stone of the Sydney Exchange was 
 laid by the Governor-General, Sir Charles Augustus Fitzroy. 
 His Excellency was presented with a trowel made of Australian 
 gold, beautifully executed, and bearing a suitable inscription. 
 A prayer was read by the Archdeacon, in which was the fol- 
 lowing petition : " Lord, we intreat Thee to preserve unto 
 us the great privilege of our national Constitution; and suffer 
 us not to be alienated from the United Kingdom, in which 
 our fathers were taught to know, fear, and honour Thee; but 
 make us faithful and steadfast in our allegiance to the British 
 Crown." The day was beautiful, the crowd witnessing the cere- 
 mony was large and respectable, and the flags of nearly all the 
 nations of the earth waved in lovely harmony over the site of 
 the intended building. It was impossible to be present, without 
 reviewing the past and anticipating the future. We were
 
 TUB SOUTHERN WORLD. 137 
 
 assembled on the very spot where the rude huts of the first 
 settlers had been erected ; and on which generations yet 
 unborn would meet for purposes of commerce, and realize, in 
 all probability, many a princely fortune. The spacious and 
 splendid building about to be erected was called for by the 
 increasing commerce of the colony. The official statistics of 
 imports and exports during the last three years show the 
 advancing trade with which the country has been favoured. 
 [Note D.] 
 
 On returning, two persons were pointed out to me who had 
 formerly been convicts : the one was a gentleman of large 
 property, and much respected as an honourable and clever 
 man ; the other was a vagrant, covered with rags, upon whom 
 the discipline of convictism had exerted no beneficial influence. 
 In the former case there had been regret and reformation ; in 
 the latter ease, hardness and contempt. 
 
 26th. This morning the Rev. Messrs. P. Turner and 
 Watsford breakfasted with me. They had just arrived from 
 Polynesia, the former from the Friendly Islands, and the latter 
 from Feejee. Mr. Turner entered the Mission-field in 1830, 
 and had laboured with great zeal and success. Mr. Watsford's 
 period of service had been more limited, but, nevertheless, had 
 been very efficient. Both were necessitated to visit the colony 
 on account of painful family afflictions. Mr. Watsford, being 
 engaged in revising a translation of the Scriptures into the 
 language of Feejee, had brought a native to assist him in the 
 completion of his important work. That native was Ratu 
 Tevita Raicebe, a Bau Chief, six feet and three inches in 
 height, and about 50 years of age. Formerly ho was a great 
 warrior and a fearful cannibal, but now a sincere Christian and 
 an efficient Local-Preacher. He had sacrificed both his little 
 fingers in the service of Heathenism, and perceiving that his 
 mutilated hands attracted my attention, he said, with manifest 
 feeling, " You are looking at the wickedness of Feejee. Its 
 wisdom is foolishness, and its light darkness." Having spoken 
 of his ignorance and poverty, with obvious humility, in con- 
 trast with what he heard and saw in Sydney, I said that
 
 138 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 we received him as a brother, notwithstanding his circum- 
 stances; and that however we might differ in outward things, 
 we were "one in Christ Jesus," and should feel much pleasure 
 in doing what we could to make him happy whilst absent from 
 his country and home. His heart became too full for utter- 
 ance ; but his tears told of his grateful emotions, and revealed 
 a state of mind which words would have failed adequately to 
 express. In looking at this manly Chief, I could not but 
 regard him as a part of the first-fruits of a glorious harvest 
 yet to be reaped in dark and cannibal Feejee. Here was 
 one of its most proud, sanguinary, man-eating warriors, con- 
 quered by the glorious Gospel of the grace of God, now 
 clothed, and in his right mind, with all the docility of a little 
 child, sitting at the feet of Jesus. 
 
 28th. Heard the Rev. Peter Turner preach this morning 
 at Surrey-Hills Chapel. His sermon was evidently constructed 
 for the meridian of the Friendly Islands. Not "strong meat," 
 but "milk for babes;" and presented with so much affection 
 and gentleness, that even the sickly ones must have been 
 induced to receive it. The simplicity of the discourse was 
 beautiful. I could not but observe the happy adaptation of 
 Mr. Turner's talents to the people amongst whom he had 
 laboured with so much credit to himself and benefit to others ; 
 and considering that for twenty-three years he had been 
 preaching in another tongue, the sermon was highly creditable. 
 In the evening I preached in York-street Chapel, and greatly 
 enjoyed the day. 
 
 29th. In my visit to the city this morning I was enveloped 
 in a cloud of dust. It was so dense that I could with difficulty 
 see across the street, which rendered travelling exceedingly 
 disagreeable. The fine particles not only insinuated themselves 
 into every part of my apparel, but painfully interfered with 
 my organs of sight, hearing, and respiration. I had previously 
 encountered similar dust-storms, and understand that in 
 summer they are of frequent occurrence in Sydney.
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 139 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 EMBARK for New Zealand Passengers New Zealand in sight 
 Tradition as to its origin North Cape Waingaroa Arrival at Auckland 
 The town Wesleyan Chapel District-Meeting Education Letter 
 from the Governor Government scheme Members of the Mission 
 churches Mission property The union of the Mission with Australia 
 Missionary Meeting Mr. "Whiteley's replies to sundry questions. 
 
 I EMBARKED for New Zealand on the morning of the 30th of 
 August. Mr. Boyce, my valued friend and colleague on the 
 Deputation, accompanied me. We were favoured with the com- 
 pany of the Rev. N. Turner, who had for several years laboured 
 successfully as a Missionary in New Zealand and in the Friendly 
 Isles. To my great inconvenience and loss of time, the sailing 
 of the vessel had been repeatedly postponed, after having been 
 announced to sail on a certain day " most positively," on 
 another " most assuredly," and on another " without fail." 
 But in no case was the promise fulfilled. When I complained 
 to some merchants of this want of good faith, they smiled at 
 my simplicity, and said I ought not to have expected anything 
 else, that being the usual mode of doing shipping business, and 
 evidently thought it no violation of propriety. This reminded 
 me of what I heard a West India planter say to his negroes, 
 in relation to the law of the Sabbath. He said, that the law 
 respecting the Sabbath was given some hundreds of years 
 before the West Indies were discovered, and could not there- 
 fore be intended for the Western World ; and as the law of 
 truth was given long before the discoveries of commercial 
 navigation, it would seem that it is not to be applied to any 
 of its transactions. When a merchant advertises that his 
 vessel will " positively," " most assuredly," and " without 
 fail," sail at a given date, " wind and weather permitting," he 
 ought, as an honourable man, to keep good faith with the 
 public ; but to make such announcements without any real
 
 140 THB SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 intention to meet the expectation they are calculated to excite, 
 is indefensible on any principle or rule of morality whatever. 
 When there is doubt as to the sailing of a vessel, let that be 
 intimated in the advertisement, but let no shipowner sanction 
 a practice which, as in my case, may rob a man of much valu- 
 able time, and seriously interfere with important and pressing 
 engagements. 
 
 September 1st. One of our passengers was a disappointed 
 immigrant. He had been allured to Australia by glowing 
 statements respecting that country, but had met with nothing 
 but discomfort and disappointment He was on his way, with 
 his wife and two children, to New Zealand, hoping there to 
 obtain a home, with the necessaries, if not the comforts of life. 
 This gentleman is but a sample of a class, and I fear a large 
 one, to whom Australia, with all her riches, extends not her 
 favours, though sought at the sacrifice of country and home, 
 and who would, in the bitterness of disappointment, gladly 
 avail themselves of any opportunity of returning to the land 
 of their fathers. 
 
 2d A passenger, an American, of manifest respectability, 
 and recently from California, informed me that gambling and 
 " Lynch-law" prevailed in that country to a fearful extent In 
 one gambling-house he had on a certain evening counted twenty 
 tables, with about 3,000 on each, and observed the direct 
 tendency of such practice to crimes of the deepest dye. One 
 gambler, he said, shot a youth without the least provocation. 
 This roused the mob, who pursued the murderer to an hotel, 
 broke in the door, dragged the wretched man from his hiding- 
 place, and, without farther ceremony, took him to the first 
 convenient tree, and hanged him. Finding in the hotel a nest 
 of gamblers, the companions of the murderer, they compelled 
 every man of them to accompany the procession, and to witness 
 the execution, as indicating what they too might expect if they 
 did not restrain their wickedness. 
 
 4<A. We had a religious service in the cabin, which Mr. 
 Turner conducted; but, as the day was stormy, few persons 
 were able to attend.
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 141 
 
 5th. To-day a beautiful Cape pigeon was caught by one of 
 the passengers. It was about the form and size of a small 
 duck; and on being brought on deck, sought to defend itself 
 by the ejection from its stomach of a white oily liquor. 
 
 Gth. A respectable Jewish family being on board, I had a 
 conversation with them on the points at issue between Jews 
 and Christians; and found that they strove to shield them- 
 selves from the point of my arguments by the traditions of the 
 Fathers, the fables of their Talmuds, and the Rabbinical inter- 
 pretation of the prophecies. They said, no true Jew had ever 
 become a Christian : many had professed to be converted to the 
 Christian faith, but it was simply to accomplish some sinister 
 object; and when I referred to Neander, Wolfe, and others, as 
 exceptions, they expressed by certain remarkable shrugs and 
 contortions their utter incredulity. On farther inquiry, I 
 found the -veil covering them had been greatly thickened 
 by the absurdities of Popery, that paganized form of Christi- 
 anity, and the inconsistent lives of the professed followers of 
 Jesus. 
 
 1th. This morning passed the " Three Kings," three small 
 islands at the north end of New Zealand. According to an 
 old tradition of the natives, which they formerly believed, a 
 celebrated god, who resided on these islands, was fishing one 
 morning, and fished up New Zealand, gave it a few shakes at 
 the end of his line, and thus produced the various hills and 
 dales with which it abounds! 
 
 At 1 1 o'clock saw New Zealand. The sight recalled to my 
 mind former days. I had been selected, in 1820, in connection 
 with the Rev. S. Leigh, to commence the Wesleyan Mission to 
 this country, and had in consequence been introduced to 
 'Hongi on his visit to England, who, in assuring me protection, 
 promised that no New Zealand man should cook me; but by 
 an unexpected occurrence my appointment was changed, and 
 I was sent to meet an emergency in the West Indies. The 
 morning I left London for that field of labour, Mr. Leigh, on 
 bidding me good-bye, said, " You are not at this time to visit 
 New Zealand, but my conviction is, and mark what I say, that
 
 142 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 you will see that country before you die." It is even so, and 
 without any contrivance of my own. 'Hongi is no more, Mr. 
 Leigh is no more, and here, after more than thirty years, I am 
 permitted to visit these ends of the earth, according to the 
 intimation of the servant of God. 
 
 In the afternoon we passed the North Cape. According to 
 the notion formerly held by the natives, every Maori spirit, 
 on leaving its earthly habitation, was conducted to this Cape, 
 and there, having waited until it heard a whistle from beneath, 
 leaped over the frightful precipice, and plunged into the tur- 
 bulent abyss on its passage to another world. How dark and 
 cheerless is Heathenism, when compared with the life and 
 immortality brought to light by the Gospel! 
 
 8th. Early this morning we passed Waingaroa, a place ren- 
 dered on many accounts notorious. Here, in 1809, the crew of 
 the " Boyd," consisting of upwards of 70 persons, were murdered, 
 cooked, and eaten. Here, in 1824, the schooner " Endeavour" 
 was attacked; and the lives of Messrs. Tyerman and Bennett, 
 the representatives of the London Missionary Society, placed in 
 imminent peril, and saved only by the timely interposition of 
 the Missionaries. Here, in 1825, the brig "Mercury" was plun- 
 dered and destroyed, and many lives sacrificed to make provision 
 for a cannibal feast. And here, in 1827, the Wesleyan Mission 
 premises were pillaged and demolished, and the Missionaries and 
 their families driven away with the loss of everything but life. 
 But a happy change has been effected. " The wolf also shall 
 dwell with the lamb; and the leopard shall lie down with the 
 kid." 
 
 In the course of the day we skirted the coast, which is full 
 of bays and coves, and in many parts well timbered. We 
 passed several beautiful islets, and had the place pointed out 
 where, by the upsetting of a native canoe, the Rev. J. H. 
 Bumby was drowned. In the evening we anchored, in a gale 
 of wind, within the " head." 
 
 9th. This morning the Rev. Walter Lawry came on board, 
 and after beating up the harbour with considerable difficulty, 
 we dropped anchor. The day being boisterous, and landing
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 143 
 
 difficult, we should have been in great perplexity ahout getting 
 on shore, had not the whale-boat of the " John Wesley" come 
 to our assistance. On reaching the pier, a noble band of Mis- 
 sionaries gave us a hearty welcome. I was conducted to the 
 lovely residence of my esteemed friend, Mr. Lawry, and soon 
 felt myself quite at home. 
 
 The house of Mr. Lawry has certainly been greatly misre- 
 presented. It is not "a splendid mansion," but a humble 
 cottage, plainly built, and containing but six rooms, including 
 the kitchen and study. Its situation on the slope of a hill is 
 well selected, commanding a fine view of the harbour; and the 
 garden, fringed with the beautiful Norfolk Island pine, is laid 
 out with much taste, and gives to the residence such an air of 
 respectability that the good taste of its occupants has been 
 mistaken for extravagance, and that which undoubtedly merits 
 praise has been so misrepresented as to occasion blame. 
 
 10th. Examined Auckland, which is beautifully situated. 
 The site of this capital was fixed upon'by Captain Hobson, on 
 account of its central position, its great facility of internal 
 water communication, the safety of its harbour, the proximity 
 of several smaller ports abounding with valuable timber, and 
 the fertility of the soil. The town is built upon the northern 
 side of the isthmus which divides theWaiternata from Manukan, 
 and is bounded on the north by the shores of the former 
 harbour. According to the official plan it has a water frontage 
 of about a mile and a half, and extends inland to the distance of 
 about a mile. The greater number of the houses have been 
 built near the water, on the bays and on the headlands with 
 which it is beautifully indented. These bays are backed by 
 small valleys which run inland about half a mile, terminating 
 in narrow gullies, and are separated from each other by spurs 
 which run into the harbour, and terminate in low headlands. 
 The lower part of the town being thus separated, the roads 
 which connect them with each other are somewhat steep and 
 inconvenient. From the harbour, Auckland has a very imposing 
 appearance, and suggests the idea of expansiveness. St. Paul's 
 Church, the Roman Catholic Chapel, the Scotch Church, the
 
 144 THE SOUTHERN WOKLD. 
 
 Barracks, the Colonial Hospital, the Wesleyan College and 
 Chapel, the windmill on the hill, with Mount Eden in the back- 
 ground, are the most prominent objects. The town comprises 
 many detached cottage-like houses, built on sheltered slopes, 
 each snugly nestled in the luxuriant shrubbery of its surround- 
 ing garden, which render it exceedingly pretty and picturesque. 
 The streets are macadamized, but no attempt seems to have 
 been made to form footpaths on a general level. There is little 
 uniformity in the buildings; but some of the shops would not 
 disgrace any small provincial town in England. The population 
 of the borough of Auckland amounts to between 7,000 and 
 8,000, of whom about 4,500 occupy the town and its suburbs. 
 Considering its size, Auckland possesses the elements of a con- 
 siderable society. The officers of the civil Government are 
 themselves a numerous body. It is the head-quarters of a 
 regiment, and has representatives from the brigade, commis- 
 sariat, artillery, and engineer departments. Two battalions of 
 military pensioners, enrolled for service in New Zealand, with 
 their officers, are located in the neighbourhood; and a ship of 
 war frequently lies at anchor in the port. A bank, connected 
 with the Union Bank of Australia, is here. The officers and 
 others belonging to these various establishments, and their 
 families, with a number of professional and mercantile men, 
 together form materials for 'a very considerable society. In 
 what may be termed its fashionable phase, the military element 
 predominates. In many respects Auckland resembles an English 
 watering-place; and will, no doubt, become a large and im- 
 portant city. 
 
 llth. Preached in the Wesleyan Chapel both morning and 
 evening. The chapel is a substantial building, well situated, 
 and capable of accommodating 600 persons. It was attended 
 by a most respectable congregation. In the afternoon I was 
 present at a native service in another part of the town. The 
 people were attired in white, red, ai^d striped blankets. A few 
 had pieces of carpet wrapped around them; and two girls, who 
 were dressed in European costume, evidently thought themselves 
 persons of importance. There being no seats in the room, the
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 145 
 
 people squatted down, and, with their chins resting upon 
 their knees, listened with marked attention. On returning 
 I met a native under the influence of liquor; and Mr. 
 Lawry, who was with me, said that during his ten years' resi- 
 dence in the country he had never before seen a Maori in 
 that state. 
 
 12th. This morning Mr. Boyce and myself, as a Deputation 
 from the British Conference, met the Missionaries from different 
 parts of the country, to make certain communications, and to 
 institute various inquiries relative to the state and prospects 
 of the Mission. After the usual devotional exercises, an address 
 was delivered, and the objects of the Deputation were briefly 
 stated. A subject which had in England and elsewhere created 
 much painful interest, and exerted an unfriendly influence upon 
 some of the supporters of our Missions, was fully and impartially 
 examined; and, although approached with some apprehensions 
 as to the result, yet, without any compromise of principle what- 
 ever, it was most amicably settled, and, as the Deputation believe, 
 to the satisfaction of the different parties concerned. Through- 
 out the investigation, the honest, generous, and noble spirit 
 evinced by all the Missionaries was highly creditable to their 
 good sense and piety, as well as their firm attachment to con- 
 stitutional Methodism, and rendered the settlement of a difficult 
 subject comparatively easy, which otherwise might have resulted 
 in party-feeling and extensive mischief. A salutary lesson was 
 taught, which will probably never be forgotten. 
 
 I3tk. Examined a candidate for the Ministry, an interest- 
 ing and well-educated young man, a son of one of our English 
 Ministers. He offered himself especially for Feejee. 
 
 The state of the Mission Schools was considered, and it was 
 found that in connection with the New Zealand Mission there 
 were 188 Sabbath-schools and 88 day-schools, comprising 
 5,846 pupils ; and that considerable proficiency had been made 
 in learning. There is on the part of many of the Maoris a 
 most ardent desire to obtain knowledge ; and young men and 
 maidens, old men and children, are found at the early morning 
 schools. "In the native villages," says the Rev. H. H. Lawry, 
 
 H
 
 146 THE SOUTHERN WOBLD. 
 
 in a communication with which he kindly favoured me, " the 
 day commences with Divine worship. The native teacher in 
 charge announces sunrise by ringing his bell, which summons 
 the entire population to the house of God. The worship con- 
 sists of singing a hymn, reading a portion of Scripture, and 
 prayer. Then follow the school exercises, in which the old and 
 young of every grade are found side by side. One class have 
 the Testament in hand, and are engaged most attentively, each 
 trying to excel; detecting the smallest mistake, even of pro- 
 nunciation, or pause, or intonation of voice, and making the 
 offender give place to a more skilful reader. After reading, 
 follow questions upon the lesson, when such information is 
 imparted as may be required. Other classes, of a more 
 elementary character, are also attended to; and after two or 
 three hours thus spent, they repair to their respective occupa- 
 tions. In many cases the evening is occupied with similar 
 exercises; and the child is seen teaching the aged. The anxiety 
 of the people to learn is so great, that not unfrequently do they 
 continue their exercises in their huts until the midnight hour." 
 The result is, that according to the statement of the Rev. J. 
 Whiteley, three-fourths of the adult population can read, and 
 two-thirds can write their own language correctly. Hitherto 
 the reading of the natives has been limited, as the following 
 list of works comprises as yet all the literature published in 
 the Maori language. 
 
 The whole of the New Testament, 1 vol. 12mo. C. M.* 
 
 Ditto, a late edition, 1 vol. 8vo. C. M. 
 
 Selections from the New Testament, as published by the 
 British and Foreign School Society, 1 vol. 12mo. W. M. 
 
 Selections from the Old Testament, ditto, 1 vol. 12mo. 
 W. M. 
 
 The Book of Job. W. M. 
 
 The Psalms of David, printed by the British and Foreign 
 Bible Society, translated by C. M. 1 vol. 24mo. 
 
 * The initials signify the different parties by whom the works have been 
 prepared and published. C. M. for Church Mission ; W. M. for Wesleyan 
 Mission ; Gov. for Government.
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 147 
 
 Part of Isaiah, Daniel, and the Book of Jonah. C. M. 
 
 Book of Malachi, in a Tract. W. M, 
 
 Genesis, Exodus, Leviticus, Numbers, Deuteronomy, Joshua, 
 and Judges, in 1 vol. 12mo. C. M. 
 
 Besides the above translations of the Holy Scriptures which 
 have been published, there are several Books in MS., trans- 
 lated by the Church Mission and Wesleyan Mission ; and it is 
 expected that the former will ere long publish a uniform 
 edition of the Old Testament Scriptures. 
 
 The whole of the Church of England Prayer-Book, and 
 Hymns, 1 vol. 12mo. C. M. 
 
 Mr. Wesley's Abridgment, and Hymns, 1 vol. 12mo. W. M. 
 
 Mr. Wesley's Sermon on the Almost Christian. A Tract. 
 W. M. 
 
 A Pamphlet on Peace. W. M. 
 
 A Pamphlet on the Nature and Constitution of the Church. 
 W.M. 
 
 " Robinson Crusoe." Pamphlet. Gov. 
 
 A Pamphlet on Trade and Commerce. Gov. 
 
 A Pamphlet on Savings' Banks. Gov. 
 
 The " Maori Messenger," a fscp. newspaper, published once 
 a fortnight, one-half Maori, and the other half English. 
 Gov. 
 
 The Roman Catholics have published a Prayer-Book, and 
 several small school-books. 
 
 The first Grammar of the New Zealand language was pub- 
 lished by the Rev. Mr. Kendall, of the Church Mission, assisted 
 by Dr. Lee, of Cambridge. The Rev. R. Maunsel, A.B., of the 
 Church Mission, has also published a Grammar, clever and 
 learned, but I understand only adapted to those who have 
 made some progress in the Maori tongue. 
 
 The Rev. W. Williams, LL.D., has published a Dictionary, 
 with a short compendium of Grammar. Useful, but limited. 
 
 Mr. Kemp, jun., has issued a Vocabulary, of much service 
 to the trader. 
 
 The above list, politely furnished by the Rev. Gideon Smales, 
 
 H2
 
 148 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 contains the whole of Maori literature ; but works in that 
 language will, no doubt, soon be greatly augmented by those 
 Maoris who are receiving an English education. 
 
 All our Missionaries in the country speak the Maori 
 language with much ease and correctness. 
 
 A communication from the Governor was laid before the 
 Meeting, of which the following is a copy : 
 
 " Auckland, New Zealand, 
 
 "MaylSth, 1853. 
 
 "SIR, 
 
 " IT having become necessary for me to recommend for the 
 sanction of Her Majesty's Government the mode in which I 
 propose that the public funds reserved in this country for 
 native purposes should be applied, I have the honour to state 
 that I am prepared to recommend that the sum of 1,600 per 
 annum should be placed at the disposal of the Wesleyan 
 church in New Zealand, for Educational purposes in the two 
 Northern Provinces, and the sum of 700 per annum for the 
 Southern Provinces of New Zealand, and for the support of 
 schools in connection with that church, which are already estab- 
 lished, or may hereafter be established in these islands, provided 
 those funds are applied in conformity with the principles stated 
 in the enclosed memorandum. 
 
 "When you have fully considered the plan thus proposed, 
 I should feel obliged by your informing me if it meets with 
 your approval, and if the Body which you represent are willing 
 to accept the proposed annual grant on those terms. 
 " I have the honour to be, Sir, 
 
 " Your most obedient humble servant, 
 
 " G. GREY." 
 
 " The KEY. WALTER LA WRY." 
 
 " Memorandum. 
 
 " 1. New Zealand shall be divided into convenient districts 
 for Educational purposes connected with the Wesleyan church. 
 
 " 2. All schools in such districts which receive any portion 
 of the Government grant shall be conducted, aa heretofore,
 
 THE SOUTHERN WOULD. 149 
 
 upon the principles of a religious education, industrial 
 training, and instruction in the English language, forming 
 a necessary part of the system pursued in such schools. 
 
 "3. The schools which are aided from the Government grant 
 may be of three kinds : 
 
 "1st. Colleges. 
 
 " 2d. Central schools. 
 
 " 3d. Primary schools. 
 
 " Each Educational district shall have at least one central 
 school, which is to be made as far as possible the means of 
 multiplying primary schools in that district, which shall be 
 regarded as being connected with the central school to which 
 they belong. 
 
 " 4. The general rule being, that the most promising can- 
 didates from the primary schools shall have the option afforded 
 them of being received into the central school with which they 
 are connected. 
 
 " 5. In like manner the most promising scholars from the 
 central schools will be eligible for election as pupils into the 
 College of the district in which they are situated, where it is 
 hoped that ultimately it may be found practicable to qualify 
 native teachers for the Ministry. 
 
 "6. Maori, or half-caste children, or the children of inhabit- 
 ants of islands in the Pacific Ocean, as well as orphans, or 
 destitute children of European parents, are to be eligible for 
 admission into any schools which may be supported from the 
 Government grant, upon such conditions as may in the case of 
 each school be determined by the Auckland District-Meeting. 
 
 " 7. Any grants of land for the support of schools will be 
 made upon the usual trusts to the Superintendent of the 
 Wesleyan Missions in New Zealand. 
 
 " 8. The annual grant given by the Government shall be 
 applied to the three following purposes, in such proportions as 
 the Auckland District-Meeting may determine: 
 
 " 1st. To the support of existing schools, and the establish- 
 ment of new ones. 
 
 " 2d. To provide the means of educating in the Colleges, or
 
 - 
 
 150 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 in the central schools, scholars to be trained as teachers, who, 
 in addition to the other duties allotted to them, shall teach 
 the primary schools. The total number of scholars to be 
 educated as above shall, as soon as practicable, be made up to 
 twenty, .and shall, if possible, be maintained at least at that 
 number. 
 
 "3d. To provide for the payment of sums, (which it is 
 proposed should not, for the present, exceed 10 per annum,) 
 in part payment of the salaries of accredited teachers, who 
 shall have passed an examination before, and have received a 
 certificate from the Auckland District-Meeting, or such persons 
 as they may appoint. 
 
 " 9. It is proposed that, as soon as practicable, at least 
 twenty teachers in primary schools shall each receive the 
 annual allowance of .10. 
 
 "-10. The funds appropriated to the purposes of schools 
 supported from the Government grant shall be administered 
 by the Auckland District-Meeting. 
 
 "11. An Annual Report of the state of the schools, and of 
 the mode in which the annual grant has been distributed, is 
 to be furnished to the Governor by the Auckland District- 
 Meeting. 
 
 " May 13th, 1853." "G. GREY." 
 
 This communication having been considered by the Meeting, 
 it was unanimously resolved, 
 
 " That the Wesleyan Ministers of this District, convinced of 
 the importance to the country of Educational establishments 
 embracing the religious and industrial elements, record the 
 sense they entertain of the interest His Excellency has ever 
 manifested on the subject of education; and acknowledge, on 
 behalf of the native converts, the benefits they have already 
 received, in relation to their social and moral improvement, 
 from the schools that have been so liberally sustained by the 
 Government under His Excellency's administration, and also 
 express their cordial approval of the wise and comprehensive 
 pkn he has suggested for future Educational effort."
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 151 
 
 I4:tk. To-day the state of the Mission churches in the 
 District was examined, and it was found that we had 105 
 Chapels, 148 other preaching-places, 322 Local-preachers, 
 5 Catechists, 4,500 Members, and 10,864 attendants on public 
 worship; a great work this for the pastoral oversight 
 of 20 Missionaries, who have also to superintend the 
 schools. 
 
 On inquiring very particularly into the spiritual condition of 
 our church members, I learned that, whilst some were not 
 entirely delivered from the influence of superstition, and others 
 were resting in the form of godliness, there were many in the 
 possession of the saving power of the Gospel, and who were 
 adorning the doctrines of God their Saviour in a consistent 
 walk and conversation. Encouraging statements were also 
 made in relation to the holy confidence and abounding joy 
 evinced by many native Christians in the time of affliction, and 
 in the article of death. 
 
 In the evening the Colonial Secretary and the Colonial 
 Treasurer called upon me. Their voluntary testimony as to 
 the labours and success of our Missionaries in New Zealand 
 was highly gratifying. They spoke of the Educational efforts 
 of the Society in the highest terms. The Secretary said, that 
 when he went into the country to botanize, as he frequently 
 did, he made a point of asking the different natives he met 
 with the names of the various plants he had collected; and 
 that three out of every four not only gave the names, but took 
 his pencil and wrote them for him in his book. 
 
 I5th. The meeting to-day examined the financial state of 
 the Society. Every item of expenditure was analyzed; and the 
 Missionaries, on hearing the pressing claims upon the Mission- 
 fund, nobly agreed to relinquish 1,000 of the annual grant 
 made to the District. This could not be done without con- 
 siderable sacrifice; but, rather than reduce the Missionary staff, 
 and leave any of their flocks in the wilderness, they submitted 
 to it without murmuring. I was greatly delighted with the 
 spirit in which this was done. "Look not every man on his 
 own things, but every man also on the things of others." This
 
 152 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 apostolic injunction was observed, and beautifully exemplified 
 in the proceedings of this day. 
 
 For some years the Missionaries to this land had gone forth 
 taking little or nothing of the Gentiles; but the churches raised 
 by their instrumentality having become so far matured, and the 
 people greatly improved in their worldly circumstances, it was 
 thought the time had now arrived to teach them more fully 
 the Christian duty of supporting their own Ministers, and 
 measures were accordingly adopted for that purpose. I could 
 not but regret that the excellent men who had commenced the 
 New Zealand Mission should not from the first have taught 
 their converts this Christian duty. Had they done so much 
 misconception amongst the natives would have been prevented, 
 and their successors, who have sought to explain and enforce 
 this New Testament requirement, would not have been 
 accused of "preaching another Gospel." It might have 
 been prudent at the beginning of the Mission not to receive 
 any contributions; still, however, the teaching of God's word on 
 the subject ought not to have been kept back, but clearly and 
 fully stated. 
 
 16^. The Mission property throughout the country was 
 considered by the Meeting. With few exceptions the titles 
 were found satisfactory, and the several chapels, &c., settled 
 according to the Connexional Deed. Upon the whole there 
 was a debt only of 360, and that would soon be liquidated. 
 Much credit is due to the Missionaries for their exertions and 
 skill in the erection of so many chapels and Mission-Houses, 
 with little or no cost to the Parent Society. 
 
 Ylth. The subject of attaching the Missions in New Zealand 
 to the Australian Conference occupied the serious considera- 
 tion of the District-Meeting; and, after a lengthy and free 
 conversation, resolutions approving of the arrangement were 
 unanimously and cordially adopted. 
 
 In the afternoon the Meeting closed its sittings. They had 
 all been marked with delightful harmony; and on no subject 
 had there been the utterance of a word or the manifestation 
 of a spirit incompatible with brotherly kindness and charity.
 
 THE SOUTHERN WOULD. 153 
 
 Much spiritual conversation was held, and the Missionaries 
 separated in the finest temper of mind, determining to make 
 full proof of their ministry, and to spend and be spent in the 
 faithful discharge of their important duties. In my intercourse 
 with them, I received a most favourable impression as to their 
 religious character, and their general adaptation to the work of 
 the New Zealand Mission. 
 
 18th. Sabbath. In the morning I preached on behalf of 
 the Missionary Society. The congregation was highly interest- 
 ing, and the collection more than tripled that of the former 
 year. In the evening Mr. Boyce preached, but a heavy rain 
 prevented many from enjoying the treat of his excellent 
 sermon. 
 
 19th. Attended the Missionary Meeting. Captain R 
 
 occupied the chair, and bore a highly satisfactory testimony to 
 the self-denying and successful labours of the Wesleyan Mis- 
 sionaries in New Zealand. The meeting was addressed by the 
 Rev. Messrs. Whiteley, N. Turner, T. Williams, (from Feejee,) 
 Boyce, Young, and a Presbyterian Minister. It was an occa- 
 sion long to be remembered. Mr. Turner, one of the first 
 Missionaries to this country, made some affecting statements 
 in contrasting the present with the former condition of New 
 Zealand. Mr. Whiteley, who occupies a "bush" station, after 
 some instructive remarks, read a long list of subscribers to 
 the Mission-fund, principally natives, making the sum raised 
 at his station for the year 50; and Mr. Williams produced 
 thrilling effects by his communication respecting Feejee. The 
 collection was 40. 
 
 20th. Having proposed the following questions to the Rev. 
 J. Whiteley, I received this morning the annexed replies. Mr. 
 Whiteley had been twenty years in this country, and, being a 
 man of extensive observation, and acknowledged sobriety of 
 judgment, his statements may be depended upon. 
 
 " 1. You have been in this country twenty years: in what 
 particulars, and to what extent, have the natives become 
 changed during that period?" 
 
 " So far as the question relates to our natives, I may say that
 
 154 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 they then worshipped in a room ten feet square; they now 
 worship in chapels that will contain hundreds. Then, there 
 was but one single native baptized, named George Morley ; now, 
 we have them by thousands. Then, they were under the con- 
 stant bondage of tapu; now, that system of superstition is 
 broken, and its remains are rapidly disappearing. Then, they 
 were either constantly at war or preparing for it; now, their 
 fortifications have fallen into ruins, their pas are abandoned, 
 they are quietly cultivating the soil, and, with occasional ex- 
 ceptions arising out of conflicting claims to the land, there is 
 universal peace. Then, cannibalism was practised to a fearful 
 extent ; now, no such atrocity occurs in any part of the country. 
 Then, they were in constant dread of some superstition or 
 imaginary Atua; now, they believe that the Lord our God 
 is one Lord, and that ' the Lord, He is God.' Then, they were 
 miserably clad in dirty mats and filthy rags; now, they very 
 generally wear European clothing. Then, they were regarded as 
 thieves and liars ; now, our merchants entrust them with goods 
 on credit to the amount of hundreds and thousands of pounds. 
 Then, polygamy and concubinage everywhere prevailed; now, 
 the man is generally the husband of one wife. Then, many 
 captives taken in war were held in bondage as slaves, and sub- 
 ject to the terror of the tomahawk ; now, they have either been 
 liberated, and sent home to their friends, or, by intermarriages, 
 have been incorporated with the respective tribes. Then, the 
 natives probably had not a grain of wheat in the country; 
 now, it is universally and extensively cultivated. Then, they 
 had no property save their oven-houses, pigs, muskets, war- 
 canoes, little Ropapas, and useless lands; now, they have vessels, 
 mills, horses, cows, oxen, ploughs, and money. Then, they 
 had so little to do, and spent so much time in idleness and 
 smoking, that for a full pipe of tobacco you might get them, 
 in their way, to do a large stroke of work; now, they are so 
 fully engaged with their own affairs, and so fully occupied with 
 their own pursuits, that you can scarcely get them to do a day's 
 work, either for love or money. Then, they had faults purely 
 Maori; now, they have faults both Maori and English."
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 155 
 
 " 2. What influence, in your opinion, has colonization had 
 upon the Maori population 1 ?" 
 
 " Colonization has produced excitement, industry, avai'ice, 
 and various forms of dissipation. The introduction into 
 the country of so large a number of Europeans, and the con- 
 sequent purchase of land, have led the natives to look after 
 their real or fancied claims in all parts of the country as they 
 never did before, and they have gone from place to place, and 
 spent weeks and months after land-sales, land-committees, 
 land-quarrels, and in hunting after property which their 
 friends have received in payment for land; and dissipated 
 habits have thus been induced. I fear that the morals of the 
 rising youth, visiting the towns, have been sadly deteriorated by 
 the examples of vice with which they come in contact. The 
 increase of property by trade would necessarily produce much 
 excitement, in addition to that produced by land-disputes ; and 
 as the natives find, in comparing present prices with those of 
 former days, that they have been on a rising scale, the idea 
 naturally suggests itself that prices must continue to rise, and 
 that it is their business and interest to push them up as fast 
 as they can. It appears therefore right, according to their 
 mode of reckoning, to aim high, and to extort as much as they 
 can. Their past experience, as they understand it, tells them 
 that they have not had justice; and, as they know not of any 
 limit to the white man's wealth, their business is now to get 
 all they can. The demand for native productions, as wheat, 
 potatoes, timber, &c., leads to great industry; but they prefer 
 working each one for himself, that he may have the pleasure 
 of selling his own produce, driving his own bargain, and 
 handling his own money. Many of the Chiefs, however, are 
 prevailing upon their people to subscribe each one his sovereign, 
 &c., for the purchase of a plough, or horse, or for the erection 
 of a mill. And many, in various ways, are copying the example 
 of the English agriculturist. One effect of colonization has 
 been the reverse of what might have been expected. Instead 
 of following the example of the pakeha, by centralizing 
 themselves, and settling down in towns and villages, they have
 
 156 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 spread themselves abroad, over a much greater surface of 
 country. Each family, party, or individual, has been on 
 the look-out to secure and establish his claim to different and 
 distant localities, in order to prevent the land being sold by 
 others, or to secure his share of the payment in the event of a 
 general sale at a future day. Hence the natives have wandered 
 from creek to creek, from valley to valley, sometimes on one 
 side of the harbour, sometimes on the other, as the weather 
 or their work may have suited their convenience. Putting up 
 a little temporary shed, and cultivating a small patch first in 
 one place and then in another, the Missionary is sometimes 
 puzzled to know where to find his people, and can only meet 
 with them as by accident, and in small detached parties. The 
 remedy for this state of things appears to be a good central 
 school at each station. Let the Missionary get hold of the 
 children, and that will draw the parents around him ; and thus, 
 that waste of time, strength, and life, which has so long been 
 a fearful tax upon the New Zealand Missionary, in climbing 
 mountains, wading swamps, and traversing forests, will give 
 place to something like civilized, ministerial, and pastoral duty, 
 and his strength, and time, and mental energies will be devoted 
 to his proper and legitimate work." 
 
 " 3. What is the feeling generally entertained by the natives 
 of New Zealand towards the colonists]" 
 
 " Generally that of respect. They acknowledge the white 
 man's superiority ; and although they despise the profligate and 
 profane, and hold themselves as the lords of the soil, and would 
 resist unto blood all unrighteous attempts to dispossess them, 
 yet they know that, as a race, they are infinitely our inferiors in 
 riches, intelligence, wisdom, and power; and although in many 
 places they are very unwilling to part with their lands, yet, 
 generally, they regard it a privilege and an honour to have the 
 pakeha for a neighbour." 
 
 " 4. What are the traits of character most prominent in the 
 natives of New Zealand?" 
 
 " The following may be noticed. A revengeful spirit. An 
 injury or an insult is never forgotten until utu (satisfaction)
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 157 
 
 is obtained. The offence will be remembered, and handed 
 down from generation to generation. A man at Hokianga was 
 offended, or injured, and, taking a hatchet, went out, declaring 
 he would have satisfaction. After travelling about a mile, he 
 met a woman, and killed her on the spot. This was the secret 
 of the Wairou massacre, in 1847. A Chief woman had been 
 slain, and revenge called for large satisfaction. Christianity, 
 where cordially received, has of course counteracted this spirit. 
 Covetomness is another characteristic of the Maori, cunning, 
 crafty, and calculating covetousness. Pride and independence 
 may also be placed in this category. The authority of a master 
 is looked upon as similar to the tyranny of a Chief over his 
 slaves in former days; and having seen the evil of that, they 
 carefully watch the assumption of authority on the part of the 
 master, and the moment it begins to pinch they throw off the 
 yoke, and return to their Maori liberty. This feeling, as a 
 national feeling, is becoming stronger and more general; and 
 it requires our utmost wisdom and caution to avert its natural 
 consequences. This undoubtedly led to the ' war of the flag- 
 staff;' and it is this feeling which prevents the tribes of 
 Taranaki from parting with their land, although they have 
 millions of acres lying useless. They are also patient and for- 
 bearing. In their assemblies on public matters, they will listen 
 for hours to a Maori speaker with the strictest order. The 
 most provoking language, and the severest irony, may be 
 used without offence. And if two orators get into disputation, 
 as is often the case, they will go to the most frightful lengths 
 in insulting language, and in threatening and defying gesticula- 
 tions, coming to close quarters with each other, and brandishing 
 their spears or tomahawks, and manifesting the most fiend-like 
 rage; but not a blow is struck. Cowardice in such cases may 
 perhaps have some influence ; for, notwithstanding their exhibi- 
 tions of apparent recklessness, they shrink from death. A farther 
 trait in their character is a sense of honour. They very much like 
 to be regarded as honourable men; and when traders have 
 entrusted them with property, they have generally been found 
 most honourable in their transactions; and if a distant Chief
 
 158 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 or tribe send a present, or give a feast to another tribe or 
 Chief, an honourable return is sure to be made. Their attach- 
 ment to Europeans is worthy of notice. I mean to those who 
 have been kind to them, and with whom they have been 
 intimate. They will forgive their faults, defend their rights, take 
 care of their property, and, if honoured with their confidence, 
 will be more faithful to them than they would be to their own 
 friends. Respect for the Chiefs may also be mentioned ; and 
 yet it sometimes seems as if they were without influence. 
 But if a Chief undertake any great matter, all will join to help 
 him. Two of the Kawhia Chiefs have each undertaken the 
 project of getting a large water corn-mill built, each to cost 
 400; they and their people in both cases providing all the 
 timber and manual labour, and the millwrights finding machinery 
 and skill. All hands are exerting themselves to raise the required 
 sum : the little boy, or little girl, who has a pet pig, gives it 
 as a contribution; the young men and old plant wheat, pota- 
 toes, &c., for sale, to realize the money, and the women do the 
 same. Then all go to the forest to fell trees, prepare timber, 
 &c. ; and all this because the head Chiefs have said it. And 
 when a Chief sickens and dies, they all become mourners, and 
 show great respect." 
 
 " 5. Is it your opinion that the native population is decreasing? 
 If so, how do you account for it?" 
 
 " The population is decreasing, but I think not so rapidly as 
 has been supposed. The causes of decrease are il\e following: 
 
 "Early betrothment. Children in their infancy are betrothed 
 by their parents, and often with great inequality of age. This 
 betrothment is regarded as being tapu; and whatever 
 objections might spring up in after-life to the marriage of the 
 two persons thus betrothed in childhood, the woman, at least, 
 is not regarded as at liberty to be married to another. 
 
 " Early marriages. Often have I been urged to marry mere 
 children, and when I have refused, worse consequences have 
 followed. Such early marriages often result in quarrels and 
 separation; and a woman, though thus abandoned by her 
 husband, is regarded as still belonging to him ; and if another
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 159 
 
 man should venture to take her to wife, the former husband, 
 though married to another woman, would make a tana upon 
 him, and take her away, unless the matter were compromised 
 by large payments. 
 
 " Unequal marriages. Old men and young girls; old women 
 and young boys. 
 
 "Marriages with kindred. The tribes are as tenacious of 
 their women as they are of their lands; and as a tribe becomes 
 small, the ties of kindred, of course, become closer, so that the 
 marriage of cousins is very common. 
 
 " Improper management of infants. Many children die from 
 the want of proper nourishment; and especially at the period 
 of weaning and teething. Disease is also induced by the want 
 of proper clothing and cleanliness. 
 
 " Unwholesome food. Formerly the natives used much fern- 
 root; but they always used with it either shell-fish, or some 
 other kinaki. Thus they had a good substantial food, and 
 a considerable portion of salt therewith in the shell-fish. Now 
 they subsist chiefly on potatoes, without salt, or any other 
 kinaki at all. In respect to this, however, they are improving, 
 and will, I hope, soon have cows to supply their children with 
 milk. 
 
 " Improper clothing. The blanket is a great evil, simply 
 because it is abused, wearing it day and night, hot or cold, 
 wet or dry. Often, after having been saturated with rain, they 
 will sit in their wet blankets, and even sleep in them. Colds 
 and consumptions are the natural consequences. Formerly 
 they wore but little clothing, and besmeared their bodies with 
 oil and red-ochre. The friction thus used was beneficial to the 
 skin; and the application of the oil, &c., made it almost 
 impervious to cold and damp. 
 
 " There may be other causes tending to the decrease of the 
 Maori population, found in polygamy, and in the prostitution 
 of females in the English settlements, as well as in the exces- 
 sive use of tobacco. Of course it is the anxious endeavour of 
 the Christian Missionary, and the direct tendency-of the 
 Christian religion, to counteract these causes. Great good in
 
 160 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 this respect has already been effected; and my hope is, that 
 the remedy which Christianity supplies will prevail throughout 
 the land, and the people be saved. Amalgamation of the races, 
 however, I think will take place to a great extent, and a more 
 healthy and numerous population will be the result." 
 
 " 6. What proportion of the natives in your opinion can read? 
 And what proportion can write?" 
 
 " Three-fourths of the adult population, I should say, can 
 read; and two-thirds can write their own language correctly. 
 But the children, being neglected to a great extent, are grow- 
 ing up in ignorance; and unless more schools for them be 
 established, they will, indeed, in many parts of the country, be 
 ' as the wild ass's colt.' Arrangements, I am happy to say, are 
 now being made to supply the want." 
 
 " 7. Is the present Government arrangement, as to the sale 
 of lands, generally satisfactory to the natives?" 
 
 " I think when the natives are willing to part with their 
 lands, they do not object to sell them to the Government. 
 But Europeans have, from self-interest, persuaded them that 
 they ought to have the liberty of selling to other parties, as 
 well as to the Government. As to the sale of land by the 
 Government to Europeans after it has been purchased of the 
 natives, they are willing that profit should be realized. They 
 now understand that Government has to incur a vast amount 
 of expense in surveys, deeds, registers, roads, &c., &c., and are 
 prepared to allow that there must be a large profit on the 
 land, in order to meet these items of expense. Formerly, how- 
 ever, it was a most puzzling subject to them, that the Govern- 
 ment should buy land from them at Qd. per acre, and sell it 
 again for 1, or from that to 100 per acre." 
 
 "8. What is the estimated native population of New 
 Zealand ? And what proportion has embraced Christianity?" 
 
 " The population has been variously estimated at from 60,000 
 to 120,000. I think it nearer the higher than the lower figure. 
 It is my opinion that nine-tenths have embraced Christianity. 
 Indeed there are very few who do not consider themselves as 
 belonging to one or other of the following Denominations :
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 161 
 
 namely, Wesleyans, Church of England, Romanists, and 
 Germans. In many cases, however, their Christianity is merely 
 nominal. They feel not its saving power. May the Lord 
 graciously pour out his Spirit upon them, and make them 
 Israelites indeed !" 
 
 But, although many of the natives have not received the 
 Gospel in its renovating influence, it has saved all of them from 
 cannibalism and other atrocities, which formerly so greatly 
 darkened the Maori character; and not a few of them, having 
 felt its saving power, are walking in the fear of the Lord, and 
 in the comfort of the Holy Ghost. 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 MISSIONARIES' bush costume Long journey Tea-meeting Mount 
 Eden Visit to "Three Kings' Institution" Sermon in the Free Church 
 Interview with Epiha Putini Message to the Queen Wesleyan 
 College Auckland day-school Letters from native Christians. 
 
 ON the morning of the 21st of September, Mr. Boyce started 
 for the South, to visit several of the Mission Stations. He 
 was accompanied by some of the Missionaries in their "bush" 
 costume, consisting of a white "wide-awake" hat, and other 
 articles to correspond with it. Some of them would have to 
 walk a great part of the way, about 400 miles, and in many 
 places have to wade rivers, climb abrupt and trackless moun- 
 tains, and plunge through swamps of fearful depth; but the 
 New Zealand Missionaries, being inured to these forms of toil 
 and discomfort, started in good spirits. Mr. Boyce, however, 
 would find it a most trying journey. 
 
 In the evening we had a public Missionary tea-meeting in 
 Auckland. The Rev. Walter Lawry took the chair. The
 
 162 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 meeting was well arranged, numerously attended, and fully 
 accomplished the designed object. 
 
 22d. I visited Mount Eden, an attractive spot about two 
 miles from Auckland. On its summit is the mouth of a crater, 
 and although no volcanic action has been observed here within 
 the memory of man, yet the country around bears indubitable 
 marks of the overflowings of lava at some former period. 
 From this mountain there is an extensive and most enchanting 
 view. The landscape comprises lofty hills, fruitful valleys, 
 scattered villas, beautiful bays, winding creeks, sundry islands, 
 distant forests, and almost everything to render it picturesque 
 and attractive. A friend from Cornwall accompanied me; and 
 although the mountain was difficult to climb, we felt amply 
 repaid for our toil. 
 
 23d. This morning, in company with the Rev. Messrs. 
 Lawry and Buddie, I set out for the " Three Kings," to visit 
 our Native Institution. It is about four miles distant from 
 Auckland. The day was fine, and I greatly enjoyed the ride. 
 We passed several lovely villas and well-cultivated farms. The 
 progress made in agriculture in the short period of twelve years 
 greatly astonished me, and I could not but foresee that this 
 fruitful district of country will soon rival some of the best 
 cultivated parts of England. On entering the grounds belong- 
 ing to the Institution I was informed that we were passing a 
 somewhat remarkable cave. I dismounted, and, on exploring 
 it, found a large quantity of human bones. There is no 
 tradition respecting this cave j but it is generally believed that 
 in some time of deadly conflict between different tribes a 
 party had taken refuge here, and been destroyed. I took a 
 relic, and left the place with cKastened feeling. On arriving at 
 the " Three Kings " we met with a kind reception from Mr. 
 and Mrs. Reid. The place is beautifully situated, command- 
 ing an extensive view, and, in the arrangement of the buildings 
 and the laying out of the grounds, exhibits good taste. This 
 Institution was established in 1849, for the education of native 
 children of both sexes. A large building, 60 feet by 30 feet, 
 is used as a school-room and a chapel. The master's dwelling-
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 163 
 
 house is detached; and, in addition to the apartments ex- 
 clusively used by him, comprises a sewing-room, kitchen, wash- 
 house, and play-room, all for. the use of the school In 
 another separate building there are six bedrooms and a 
 store. There are also eleven raupo cottages for the use of the 
 pupils. 
 
 The number of persons in the Institution I found to be as 
 follows : 
 
 Boys 71 
 
 Girls . . 25 
 
 Wives of Monitors. . 13 
 Infants 6 
 
 Monitors 16 
 
 Total 131 
 
 The school buildings were erected with funds supplied by 
 the Government; and the school estate, consisting of 820 acres, 
 was granted by the Governor-in-Chief. The annual income is 
 made up of grants from the Government and Missionary 
 Society, and the yearly cost of each pupil is about 5. 
 
 The Government Inspectors, in their Report, say, " We agree 
 in thinking that the skill and energy of the Master of this 
 school are such as to leave nothing to be desired in that 
 respect. It was suggested, however, by Mr. Reid, that if he 
 were provided with an assistant he would be able to render 
 the school more efficient, by applying himself to the children 
 individually, and not be compelled to confine so much of his 
 attention to operating on the mass. 
 
 " Some of the boys have made great progress in carpentry, 
 under the skilful management of Mr. Boon. The house in 
 which Mrs. Reid and the girls reside was built and some of 
 the furniture made by pupils of the school. The girls are 
 instructed in sewing, &c., by Mrs. Reid. The examination of 
 the children in Scriptural knowledge was highly satisfactory. 
 Those more advanced read a chapter of St. John's Gospel, 
 (selected by the Inspectors,) in English, and explained the 
 meaning of the words and phrases reasonably well. The pro- 
 nunciation of the more difficult English sounds was defective 
 in many of the children. In this point, particularly, the want 
 of an assistant teacher was manifest. The labour of practising
 
 164 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 the children every day, and one by one, in English, is essential 
 to secure a real mastery of the language. Many of the pupils 
 exhibited a great readiness in performing all the operations of 
 Arithmetic, and were able to calculate mentally with rapidity 
 and correctness. Several showed a clear comprehension of the 
 principles of fractional arithmetic. The writing of the elder 
 boys was without exception good, and in many cases 
 excellent. The others were making good progress. A class 
 was examined in English History, and afterwards in the 
 outlines of Human Anatomy and Physiology, with a satisfactory 
 result in both cases. They showed also a good knowledge 
 of Geography. This school exhibits in a high degree the 
 advantages to be obtained by the services of a teacher regu- 
 larly trained to the art." 
 
 On our arrival, the children, having been anxiously waiting 
 for us, scampered over the grounds of the Institution in every 
 direction, rendering the scene beautifully picturesque. They 
 were soon, however, collected into the large and commodious 
 school-room, and, after the usual devotions, the duties of the 
 school commenced. Copies were written, all of which were 
 praiseworthy, and some truly elegant. Gospel History was 
 next attended to, and the children, in answer to certain 
 questions, stated, in English, the various facts connected with 
 the birth and early life of the Redeemer. In Scriptural 
 Geography they showed great aptitude, scarcely making a 
 mistake. In English Reading, with the exception of a few 
 words, they expressed themselves with correctness. In Mental 
 Arithmetic they also appeared to advantage; and in parsing 
 several sentences they evinced a very creditable knowledge of 
 the principles of Grammar. But the rapidity with which they 
 translated Maori into English surprised me most, and especially 
 as it related to the disasters of my voyage. Mr. Reid stated 
 in the Maori language some of the difficulties I had met with 
 in reaching this country, and they readily translated what he 
 said into English, and thus gave a brief narrative of my voyage, 
 with some notices of the different countries at which I 
 had called.
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 165 
 
 In the whole of these exercises the children showed the most 
 marked attention. Their jet-black eyes, beautiful white teeth, 
 and radiant countenances, presented a most interesting picture. 
 Being clean and neat, though not expensively attired, they 
 formed an assemblage of lovely and happy children, such as I 
 had not before seen in any school. I addressed them in English, 
 told them that very many people in my country prayed for 
 them, and that on my return nothing would more delight those 
 good people than to hear they had given their hearts to the 
 Saviour. Mr. Reid spoke to them in Maori, and ascertained 
 that they had fully understood my address. 
 
 Dinner was now announced, and the children, after singing 
 a merry and appropriate tune, were dismissed. We dined 
 with Mr. and Mrs. Reid, in the same room with all the female 
 scholars, who conducted themselves with much propriety. 
 After dinner the boys went to various manual occupations, and 
 the girls to sewing. The pupils assembled again in the even- 
 ing : the rule of the Institution being to attend to the exercises 
 of the school in the forenoon and in the evening, and to devote 
 the afternoon to various forms of manual labour : the boys 
 engaging in carpentry, husbandry, &,c., and the girls applying 
 themselves to sewing, washing, cleaning, and various domestic 
 matters. 
 
 Mr. Reid, who is full of energy, and manifestly well suited 
 to the position he occupies, informed me that for memory and 
 imitation the Maori children exceeded any European scholars 
 he had known, but that at present they did not evince the 
 same mental power in grappling with a difficulty. 
 
 After spending a most pleasant day at the " Three Kings " 
 we returned to Auckland, and on our way saw a native oven, 
 which was being heated to cook a pig. 
 
 2th. This morning a deputation from the Auckland 
 Leaders'-Meeting presented to me a "Memorandum of Minutes 
 passed at a Leaders'-Meeting held at Auckland, New Zealand, 
 September 23d, 1853." The document contained expressions 
 of kindness to the Deputation, of loyalty to Methodism, and of 
 gratitude to the Missionary Society. [Note .]
 
 1G6 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 25th. Preached this morning in the Free Scotch Church, 
 a fine building, capable of accommodating 800 persons, and 
 beautifully situated. I had been waited upon by the Minister 
 and one of his elders, according to a resolution of the Kirk 
 Session, to invite me to preach in their church, and a Collection 
 would be made in support of our Missions. In this manner 
 they wished to evince their gratitude to the Wesleyan Ministers 
 in Auckland, for the aid they had rendered them in occasionally 
 supplying their pulpit, and also to show their appreciation of 
 our efforts to evangelize the world. I could not but respond to 
 this invitation, so indicative of Christian catholicity and brother- 
 hood. The chapel was well attended, and the collection amounted 
 to 23 Is., a sum valuable in itself, but especially so as the 
 manifestation of lofty principle and good feeling. In the evening 
 I preached to an overflowing congregation in our own chapel. 
 
 26th. Had an interview with Epiha Putini, (Jabez Bunting,) 
 a New Zealand Chief. He is a fine looking man, about 36 years 
 of age, and one of the principal Chiefs of the Waikato district. 
 His countenance is expressive of more than an average intelli- 
 gence, as well as of considerable benevolence. He embraced 
 Christianity when quite young, and lived for some time on one 
 of the earliest Mission stations formed in the Waikato district. 
 In 1844, he invited the whole of his tribes to a great feast 
 in the neighbourhood of Auckland. They collected from 
 various districts to the number of at least 4,000 souls, and were 
 presented with about 1 2,000 baskets of potatoes, about 8,000 
 sharks, and 600 blankets. The object of this was partly to 
 give his friends an opportunity of seeing Governor Fitzroy, and 
 talking together about their lands and new circumstances} and 
 partly to show the Europeans the extent of his influence. In 
 1845, there was a remarkable visitation of grace among the 
 natives about Auckland, and it is believed that he became the 
 subject of a saving work at that period. 
 
 This morning the following conversation took place between 
 Jabez and myself, the Rev. T. Buddie acting as interpreter : 
 
 " What number of people belong to your tribe 1 ?" 
 
 " The division of the Waikato tribes to which I am most
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 167 
 
 nearly related numbers about 200 ; but the whole of the tribes 
 with which I am connected numbers about 4,000." 
 
 " Does Heathenism exist among your people ] If so, under 
 what form, and to what extent?" 
 
 " No heathep customs now live among us ; the evil that is 
 greatest among the Maoris is quarrelling about land." 
 
 " What proportion of your tribe are sincere and consistent 
 Christians]" 
 
 " I can but reply to that in the words of the Book, which 
 say, ' By their fruits ye shall know them.' And the fruits of 
 many are good." 
 
 " Do the Christian people of your tribe feel thankful to the 
 Christians of England for sending and supporting Missionaries 
 among them?" 
 
 " They do. If Missionaries had not come to the land, great 
 would have been our darkness and death. You came and told 
 us the name of God, that stopped our fighting. Last year 
 we had a large assembly of Chiefs at Mangarei, and they said 
 one to another, 'But for Christianity we should not have looked 
 each other in the face.' Some had embraced Popery, and whilst 
 the Chiefs were together they held an argument on the good- 
 ness of their respective systems of religion, of the Pikopos 
 (Papists) and ours; and they tried to convert each other 
 Parantene said, ' If the Pikopos had come here first, we should 
 never have known what was right and what was wrong. Nor 
 do we find anything in the Book teaching us to become Pikopos.' 
 John the Baptist, a Chief, who had become a Pikopo, and 
 received this name, said, ' How do you know that your God is 
 the right God?' Parantene replied, ' We know that our God 
 is the right God, because he always cares for the people first, 
 and sends his Missionaries first. Your God, if you have one, 
 never sends his Missionaries till ours have cut down trees, and 
 opened a path in the forest ; then yours walk through it. -I 
 never heard that your Pikopo Missionaries were first on any 
 island, but always follow when ours have cleared the way for 
 them.' Tipene then referred to his own experience, to the love 
 of God in his heart, to prove that our God is the right one, and
 
 168 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 the only true God. Takarei next inquired of John the Baptist 
 why he thought Popery was straight, and asked for some 
 evidence of its truth. The reply was, ' It teaches us to sit in 
 peace.' Takarei answered, ' You have not had it long enough 
 to test it. It is a new thing in this land, its time has not 
 been long. Wait until it has had a trial as long as our 
 religion before you boast of it.'" 
 
 " As other nations of the world are calling for Missionaries, 
 and as the people of New Zealand are now possessed of pro- 
 perty, do you think they will be willing to provide for their 
 own Missionaries, that the money now spent in their support 
 might be employed in sending Missionaries to other dark 
 nations? The New Testament requires this of them." 
 
 "Do you refer to the Scripture about collecting for the 
 saints?" 
 
 "No: I refer to such Scriptures as 1 Cor. ix. 11, 13, 14: 
 ' If we have sown unto you spiritual things, is it a great thing 
 if we shall reap your carnal things?' 'Do ye not know that 
 they which minister about holy things, live of the things of the 
 temple? and they which wait at the altar are partakers with 
 the altar? .Even so hath the Lord ordained that they which 
 preach the Gospel should live of the Gospel.' Also, Gal. vi. 6, 
 ' Let him that is taught in the word communicate unto him 
 that teacheth in all good things.'" 
 
 Jabez asked for some explanation, which being given, he 
 replied, " That is all good and straight." Addressing himself 
 now to Mr. Buddie, he said, " But what does this mean? If I say 
 the New Zealanders are prepared to support their Missionaries, 
 does Mr. Young intend to go away, and leave you and I to 
 make that straight after he is gone?" I replied, " That is not 
 my meaning. I only wish you to know what the word of God 
 requires of you. You have received the Book, and it requires 
 you to support the Ministry. This is a part of Christianity. 
 When you were but children in religion, and also poor, we did 
 not press this upon you; but now that you have grown to be 
 men, and are possessed of considerable property, we wish you 
 to perform every Christian duty." In answer to this, Jabez
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 169 
 
 said, " Your words are straight. This duty has been long 
 unfulfilled by the New Zealanders; but it ought no longer to 
 be trodden under foot. I will lift up your words, carry them 
 with me, and give them to thousands of the people." 
 
 " In what respects have the New Zealanders improved since 
 the arrival of Missionaries?" 
 
 " The Gospel has taught us to live in peace. It gave us love, 
 and love is the fulfilling of the law. Before the Gospel came, 
 there was no love. In the days before the Gospel, every man 
 loved but one, and that was his father, all besides were 
 counted enemies. The Gospel has crucified all this hatred. It 
 has made us love our fellow-men. Hence we liberated our 
 slaves. We do not now look upon any one as a slave. All 
 these things have been killed by love. The Gospel has made 
 the fruits that St. Paul speaks of to grow in this land, 
 ' Love, joy," peace, long-suffering, gentleness, goodness, faith, 
 meekness, and temperance.' All these things have come of 
 Missionaries." 
 
 " Do you feel satisfied with the arrangements of the British 
 Government in relation to the land question?" 
 
 " Shall I tell you what I think about the regulations of the 
 Government in reference to our lands'?" "Yes." "Then I 
 will tell you. I think one place is straight, and another place 
 is crooked." " Which place," said I, " do you consider straight?" 
 Pie replied, "We like the law, which says, the Queen shall buy 
 our lands first. This is quite straight. It would not do to 
 let the Europeans buy of the natives as they like." " And 
 which place," I farther inquired, " do you consider crooked?" 
 " The crooked place is here. The Governor sometimes buys 
 lands from Chiefs that have no right to sell them. You have 
 a piece of land. I want some money ; and I go to the 
 Governor, and say, 'Will you buy my land?' He says, 'Yes.' 
 I get the money, and you do not know that your land is gone. 
 By and by you hear of it; and go to the Governor, and say, 
 ' Is it true you have bought such a piece of land?' He says, 
 ' True.' Then you say, ' It was mine,' and hold out your hand, 
 saying, ' Let the last payment for it be to me.' Now, this is 
 
 I
 
 170 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 crooked. I have been served like this. I gave the Governor 
 a pukapuka, (a book or letter,) with all my lands written in it ; 
 and told him, when anybody came from my district to sell 
 land, to look into the pukapuka. But some of those lands 
 have been sold. This is the crooked place about our land." I 
 remarked, that the Queen was very anxious that there should 
 be no crooked place, but that justice should be done to all her 
 Maori subjects. The Chief replied, " That is good. When your 
 children are under your eye, you control them; you make 
 them do right. But when they get out of your sight, they some- 
 times fall into mischief. And when the Queen has her children 
 (the Europeans) in England around her, she can keep them 
 right ; but when they get as far away as New Zealand, what 
 can she do to keep them right 1 ? Like children out of their 
 parents' sight, they sometimes get into mischief." 
 
 " Have you anything to say to me as a messenger from the 
 Missionary Society, that has so long cared for the people of 
 New Zealand?" 
 
 " This is my salutation to my Fathers in England. ' 0, my 
 Fathers ! You are sitting at your great abode in England. How 
 do you do? Pray without ceasing for this island. Be strong 
 to pray for New Zealand.' " 
 
 Hone Kingi, another Chief who was present, wished to send 
 his salutation, and said, " This is my word to the Queen, 'How 
 do you do, and your people 1 My body is afar off, but my 
 spirit is with you.'" 
 
 27th. I visited the "Wesleyan College." This institution 
 was opened in November, 1849. It is a substantial structure of 
 brick, over a basement of scoria from an extinct crater in the 
 neighbourhood. Its architecture is of the plainest kind, but 
 the building contrasts favourably with the ordinary colonial 
 erections, and is considered highly creditable to the builder, 
 Mr. Boon, a Wesleyan, who is now most usefully employed in 
 teaching his art to the Maori pupils at the " Three Kings." 
 The site is elevated, and well adapted for the purposes of the 
 institution, combining a healthful atmosphere with cheerful 
 scenery. Upon the crown of a hill, at present in the suburbs
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 171 
 
 of Auckland, the College stands conspicuously, with the harbour 
 in the near foreground, and beyond that the many islands, and 
 the expansive gulf of Houraki. It is surrounded by about 
 eight acres of land, appropriated as garden, play-ground, and 
 shrubberies. 
 
 The cost of this institution has been defrayed by a Pro- 
 prietary, consisting of the Missionaries in New Zealand, Friendly, 
 and Feejee Islands, aided by a liberal grant of bedding, books, 
 &c., from the Wesleyan Missionary Committee, and by a loan 
 yet undischarged. The income of the establishment is wholly 
 supplied by the payments of the pupils, and has been sufficient 
 to defray the main cost of furnishing the apartments, besides 
 all the ordinary items of board, stipends, &c., but does not 
 leave any reserve moneys, or permit any accumulation for the 
 security or improvement of the property. Nor does it appear 
 that the income can ever be sufficiently large for this, though 
 the presumption that from its position the property will con- 
 siderably increase in value operates against fears of permanent 
 loss. It was not, however, with any mercantile expectations that 
 the Missionaries made this bold and costly educational effort. 
 They would, probably, all have preferred that private enterprise, 
 or the funds of the Connexion, should provide for their need. 
 But the greater productiveness of capital here in commercial 
 transactions precluded the former expedient, and the necessi- 
 ties of the Connexion, in England alone, gave them no hopes 
 of the latter. Meanwhile, grievous evil was accruing to the 
 Mission-households for want of an institution where their 
 children could reside, where education was the business 
 wholly minded, and where English and Christian ways could 
 be seen on a far broader platform than in the isolated dwellings 
 of their fathers. One great object desired was, the entire 
 removal of the young people from the vitiated atmosphere of 
 a native station ; for it is not all at once that men raised 
 from the grossness of heathenism acquire moral sensitiveness 
 and decorous manners. Even where Christianity has been 
 amending the tendencies of human society, it must have time 
 given before it will have precipitated all its impurities. The 
 
 i2
 
 172 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 high moral tone of British Christianity is the growth of cen- 
 turies. It is something more than the clear apprehension of 
 the ethics of Christianity, it is the intuitive perception of its 
 proprieties, of the " things lovely and of good report," as well 
 as of things "just and true." More learning might be con- 
 veyed by teachers resident in their Missionary homes ; but the 
 qualities of our atmosphere tell upon physical or moral health 
 as effectually as the quality of our food. Yet it may be 
 doubted whether the monotony and comparative lawlessness of 
 a boy's existence in some thinly peopled and secluded region 
 does not promote intellectual mischief in the majority of cases. 
 There, too, he is ever liable to receive his first and deepest 
 impressions from the native mind. The first prattle of his 
 childhood is probably moulded by a native nurse. He grows 
 up conversant with two languages; but one of them can con- 
 tribute nothing to feed his understanding, or to elevate his 
 character ; yet it is the language in which he hears the services 
 of the Lord's house, and in which the great congregation utter 
 their praises and their prayers. Further, though the most 
 strenuous efforts were made by the Missionaries to keep their 
 children aloof from those of the natives, they were not always 
 successful This intercourse exposed them sometimes to 
 physical disease, and also to what was far worse, to grave 
 moral evil. Feejee, especially, was and still is an awful resi- 
 dence for children. There, to this hour, men and women of 
 every age walk abroad in almost perfect nudity; and the 
 demons of carnage riot in all the brutalities of an unpitying 
 warfare, and of a revenge which is not content to wound and 
 slay, but must also cook and eat its victim, joining the device 
 of a rational creature to the appetite of a wild-beast. It is 
 evident that, in such a land, after all the injunctions which 
 parental solicitude could bestow, and all the defences which 
 it could set up, there remained serious moral danger to 
 children. 
 
 Of course the Missionaries, in this and the other islands 
 adjacent, being always awake to the peril and disadvantage 
 of their circumstances, employed every means in their power
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 173 
 
 to counteract the evil. Some families had been enabled 
 to secure a resident tutor, not usually the best that could be 
 desired, but the best that could be found. Some children had 
 been sent to England, at great cost and pain of separation, 
 and fear of injury in a land or school of strangers; some had 
 been sent to Auckland, where they were boarded in private 
 families, and educated at day-schools. But this latter resource 
 was fraught with many objections : the young people mingled 
 with the miscellaneous population of a general school, where 
 there was much opportunity for contamination after school- 
 hours, and little or no possibility of checking it was possessed by 
 any friends of their parents who felt an interest in their welfare 
 but saw them only occasionally. The children were not being 
 educated on safe ground, and were in danger of learning evil 
 faster than good, by moving with so little restraint when on 
 their way to or from the daily school. It was therefore evident 
 that the time had come for some better provision. It was for 
 the good of the Mission-cause that the parents should be 
 relieved from their anxiety on their children's behalf, and 
 should not be compelled prematurely to leave their stations, in 
 order to seek education for their families; but especially it was 
 for the good of the children, that they should receive their 
 education under constant domestic oversight, and with all 
 possible encouragements to purity and propriety of conduct, 
 and to early piety and warm attachment to the church of their 
 fathers. It was therefore determined to provide an institution 
 in or near the town of Auckland. The Missionary brethren 
 raised a fund in 20 shares, which enabled them to build ; and 
 they then appealed to the Missionary Committee for individuals 
 to take charge of their enterprise. Mr. and Mrs. Fletcher 
 were in consequence sent out, and arrived in Auckland in 
 April, 1849. In 1851 Miss Fletcher arrived; and in 1852 
 Mr. W. Fletcher, B.A. By their assistance, and that of Mr. 
 Watkin, son of one of our Missionaries, the institution has 
 been kept in full operation. "We have," says Mr. Fletcher, 
 " gone on in faith, and with a growing conviction that our 
 establishment was the offspring of the charge of an especial
 
 174 THE SOCTHXBH WOBLB. 
 
 providence. Each year of our progress has shown a gradual 
 increase of numbers. At the end of the 
 
 First year, we counted 29 clerical and 19 lay pupils. 
 
 Second ditto 36 ditto 19 ditto. 
 
 Third ditto 34 ditto 24 ditto. 
 
 Fourth ditto 37 ditto 38 ditto. 
 
 " Our day begins with the bell for rising at 6 A.M. in summer, 
 and half-past 6 in winter; when, after a fixed time for dressing 
 and devotions, all are expected to leave the bedroom together. 
 Half an hour before breakfast is spent in the school-room. At 
 9 A.M. the day-pupils may be seen coming up from the town; 
 and at a quarter past 9 all assemble in the school-room. The 
 first employment is family worship. Each pupil being provided 
 with a Bible, one of the boys reads a portion, which is followed 
 by questions on the passage, and by a short prayer for the 
 blessing of God upon the day. The classes then disperse to 
 their respective rooms, and are soon in full operation. In the 
 subject and mode of instruction, we have followed, though of 
 course only at a great distance, Eingswood School, and our 
 Wesleyan Proprietary Colleges. Our elder pupils have been able 
 to read Virgil and Cicero with comparative ease, as also most 
 of the selections in the Analecta Grseca Minora, and to 
 write, with considerable accuracy, the exercises in Henry's 
 Latin Book, and in Arnold's Greek Accidence. Our 
 attention has been confined to these books, chiefly because 
 the majority of our pupils being destined for commercial or 
 agricultural life, and the term within which their entire educa- 
 tion was to be commenced and ended being short, we were 
 required to attend very much to the branches of a purely 
 English education. We were hampered also by the necessity 
 of having a large preparatory-class at the bottom of the school, 
 in which are many too young to be sent to such an institution 
 as this, but sent from the necessity of early removal from the 
 Mission-stations, and from the difficulty of finding any prepara- 
 tory-school to which we could safely commit them. Between 
 the highest and this lowest class are many gradations of 
 instruction and acquirement; but it is our aim to train all our
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 175 
 
 pupils first in the accurate knowledge and use of their own 
 language, dividing the time thus left among History, Physiology, 
 and Natural Science, Geography, Arithmetic, and the Classics. 
 Our highest class has also travelled through six books of Euclid, 
 Mensuration of Superficies, and Algebra to Quadratic Equations. 
 It will be obvious to an experienced teacher who reads the 
 above summary, that we are almost in danger of aiming at too 
 much. We are, in fact, from the peculiarity of our circum- 
 stances, two schools. Xor can the higher school ever make 
 distinguished progress while it is connected with an inferior, 
 or where pupils have been taught the first mysteries of the 
 primer, and to which, as well as to the higher classes, the 
 attention of the head-master must be distributed. To judge 
 us, therefore, by the rules and attainments of an English school 
 of the highest order would be very unfair. This institution is, 
 in many respects, unique in its character, and must be judged 
 by a standard adjusted to its peculiarities. It is a very 
 influential peculiarity of our school, that it includes both sexes. 
 This mixture has long prevailed in day-schools, but we are not 
 aware of an instance in which the experiment has been made 
 in any boarding-school of the same size and aim as ours. Boys 
 and girls meet in the same class, and so many of them as are 
 boarders sit down in the same refectory. At all other times 
 they are vigilantly separated, except in the presence of one of 
 their teachers. Now, it is manifest that the residence of forty 
 boys and girls in the same building, brought into contact with 
 thirty-five day-pupils, is an extremely responsible addition to 
 the directorship, and might be productive of the most deplor- 
 able mischief It was not by choice that this state of things 
 came about, but by inevitable necessity. Unless both sexes 
 could be educated together, one of them would be excluded 
 from the benefit of the institution. It was therefore necessary 
 to make the experiment. Many deemed it bold. Some shook 
 the doubting head, and delivered gloomy oracles, though some 
 were also hopeful. 'We were not ourselves without misgivings; 
 but we reasoned from the well-known purity and happiness of 
 families, where brothers and sisters meet and dwell together,
 
 176 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 to the conclusion that, by giving encouragement to home- 
 feelings, by maintaining a high moral tone, and by leaving no 
 opportunity to temptation, we might perhaps even discover 
 good where we had feared evil. The experience of four years 
 has established that anticipation, and we are perfectly satisfied 
 that, with prudent oversight, and the cultivation of moral 
 sensitiveness, the experiment may be made anywhere with 
 perfect success. It is not, however, a state of things such as 
 we would enter into voluntarily. We think it has promoted 
 emulation, and general decorousness of conduct; but it makes 
 many additional anxieties, and probably rather injures than 
 improves the education of each party. It is, however, an 
 anomaly, for which we do not at present see any prospect of 
 removal. But we may reasonably expect a discreet estimate 
 of our literary attainments as a school, when it is recollected 
 that one-third of our pupils are young ladies. 
 
 "Another of our peculiarities is, that while we maintain, as 
 a family, all our Wesleyanism, as a school we are accessible to 
 all religious beliefs. The result is, that our school-room has 
 presented perhaps the most remarkable collection of young 
 people to be found anywhere in the world, under the charge 
 of a Methodist Minister. There have been or are, beside the 
 children of our own church, members of clerical families of 
 the Church of England, and children of its lay members in the 
 highest posts of government and influence in the town, children 
 from respectable Dissenting families, and several intelligent and 
 interesting children of Jewish parents. To some of these various 
 classes we are not permitted to convey religious instruction, but 
 the majority are present at our morning worship, and receive 
 Scriptural instruction; and even as to those who are not per- 
 mitted to be present, we are thankful that we have the 
 opportunity of setting before them Christian example, and 
 plying them with many godly influences. 
 
 " Our school day ends at half-past 4, an interval of two 
 hours being allowed for dining and play. After tea, at about 
 half-past 5, the entire household assemble for family worship; 
 the evening is given to preparatory studies for the next day,
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 177 
 
 and at 9 P.M. the last party of scholars retires to rest; and 
 about the time that Cheapside is full, and the banks are open- 
 ing in England, our dwelling begins to be quiet, after about 
 fifteen hours of commotion. 
 
 "The distance at which the homes of most of our pupils are 
 from Auckland restricts us to vacation but once a year, in 
 November. The last act of the year is a public examination, 
 which we have been accustomed to give, not from any wish to 
 enjoy an exhibition of ourselves in holiday attire, and with well- 
 crammed respondents, but simply for the sake of keeping alive 
 the sympathy between ourselves and the friends of the insti- 
 tution. Our largest room, on this occasion, has always been 
 crowded with a most intelligent and distinguished audience. 
 
 "'Breaking up' is a stirring time in every school, but there 
 is a touch ef the romantic about some of the pupils' vacation 
 journeyings beyond those of the English boys' sphere of things. 
 The homes of many of the scholars are situate in the remote 
 interior, at a distance of from 150 to 300 miles. Railroads 
 and steam-boats are not yet, and even the dispensation of coach 
 and waggon has not reached this land. An English student 
 of the day when Hooker trudged, staff in hand, to Oxford, 
 might have figured to himself school-boy itineration in New 
 Zealand more readily than the favoured Alumni of the nine- 
 teenth century. Small coasting vessels usually convey some of 
 the pupils to their homes, providing few comforts during their 
 voyages of uncertain length and some occasional risk. Other 
 groups of sons and daughters take the inland journey; and 
 starting on foot, and surrounded by loquacious and well-laden 
 natives, direct their way, under the guidance of their fathers, 
 towards some one of the rivers which forms a highway into the 
 very heart of New Zealand. On these picturesque waters the 
 travellers each morning launch their canoe, working up with 
 paddle, and blanket outspread as sail; now floating in the 
 shadow of tall forest trees possessed by fantastic parasites wind- 
 ing around their stems, and hanging grassy tufts upon their long 
 denuded arms; and then skirting a verdurous wall of pendant 
 shrubs ; relieving the weariness of leisure by books, or merry 
 
 i5
 
 178 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 chat, and numerous attacks with keen appetite upon the com- 
 missariat. Every evening the tents are pitched by the water- 
 side ; in wet weather probably in some native shed of reeds, if 
 the demands of the vociferous landlord or tenant can be levelled 
 down to moderation, and there seems no superabundance of 
 certain nimble parasites. Potatoes, with dried eels, or shell-fish, 
 or sturdy potfulls of flour sweetened with sugar, are soon 
 discussed around the fires of the native travellers, while the 
 Anglo-Saxon race are busy with tea, and many substantial 
 accompaniments. Evening and morning, all assemble for wor- 
 ship ; the Scriptures are read ; old familiar tunes swell on high, 
 the deep chanting tones of the natives prevailing ; then prayer 
 is made to God, the giver of all good, and the only strong pro- 
 tector. Fathers and children are soon at rest, on their couch 
 of dry fern or leaves well spread with blankets, with heads too 
 weary to think whether the pillows be soft. Around their fires, 
 however, their Maori attendants keep up a ringing discharge of 
 gossip ; rehearsing the news of Auckland, to be again reviewed 
 in the ears of curious listeners at home; speculating on a hun- 
 dred of things, sacred and secular, until the stars are sloping 
 westward. Thus, during a week or more, they journey, varied 
 by walks. through dull woods, or waste of tall tawny fern, until 
 they meet once more the greetings and rejoicings of home. 
 English school-boys would find their imaginations all astir 
 after a vivid recital of these adventures, and, coupled with a 
 portraiture of vacation amusements in the bush, would work up, 
 in the hands of a Defoe or William Howitt, a fascinating book 
 for the library of schoolboydom. Perhaps many of the pupils 
 of the Auckland institution pass over a stranger road in their 
 journeys to and from school than any other boys and girls in 
 the wide world. 
 
 " This institution has furnished several examples of steady 
 piety ; and one of the elder pupils, whom God took a year ago, 
 was a genuine Christian; and whilst it is conducted as at 
 present, it cannot but be productive of spiritual as well as 
 intellectual benefit." 
 
 I was much pleased with my visit. The examination which
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 179 
 
 took place was highly respectable, and the order of the insti- 
 tution such as to excite admiration. Mr. and Mrs. Fletcher 
 are manifestly well fitted for the important and responsible 
 post they occupy; and I do not wonder that the establishment 
 over which they so efficiently preside should be held in high 
 estimation by the citizens of Auckland. 
 
 28th. To-day I learned that a gentleman, who some years 
 ago resided in Sunderland, and who was supposed to have been 
 drowned whilst bathing, is yet alive. His leaving his clothes 
 on the beach was intended to conceal from public view the 
 wickedness he was about to commit. Although a married man, 
 and occupying a position of great respectability, he eloped with 
 a young lady of good connections, and is now living in New 
 Zealand, a professed infidel, but under a feigned name. The 
 lady, so thoroughly ruined, I understand from those who have 
 seen her, evinces deep mental wretchedness, and bitterly regrets 
 the day she left her home. 
 
 In the evening we had a meeting of all the members of the 
 Wesleyan church in and about Auckland. Several addresses 
 were delivered by Ministers and laymen; and the earnest desire 
 manifested to promote and sustain a deeper and more aggressive 
 piety afforded me great satisfaction. I was not prepared to 
 meet with so much lofty principle and Christian feeling in 
 Auckland ; or to find Methodism occupying in New Zealand so 
 respectable and influential a position as it unquestionably does. 
 It has done much for the country, even its " enemies being 
 judges;" and it has laid a broad foundation for more powerful 
 and extensive results. 
 
 29th. Visited the Wesleyan day-school in Auckland. The 
 school-room is large, airy, and well arranged, with suitable play^ 
 ground attached. The Glasgow system of teaching is adopted; 
 and the average attendance of children 60, many of whom are 
 very young. The institution is conducted by Mr. and Mrs. 
 Singer, and is supported by the weekly school payments, the 
 elder children paying one shilling per week, and the younger 
 sixpence. In the examination, some of the children acquitted 
 themselves well, but others yawned, and manifested no interest
 
 180 THE SOUTHERN WO ELD. 
 
 on the occasion, and certainly did not contrast favourably with 
 the Maori children at the " Three Kings." 
 
 30th. To-day I received several letters from the monitors 
 and scholars of the " Three Kings." The writing in every case 
 is respectable, and some of it beautiful The letters are written 
 in the Maori language, and the following translations by Mr. 
 Reid I give as specimens. 
 
 "Mv FATHER, How do you do? Here is my talk. Listen tome. 
 This is notindeed my thoughts of to-day, but my thoughts in the beginning, 
 when I saw the greatness of my sins ; because I was the most wicked man 
 of all my tribe. In the year 1847, on the 20th day of June, I went to the 
 chapel, in the evening of the Sabbath, to tempt the men of God; but Mr. 
 Smales spoke Christ's words. (Matt. xxii. 12, 13.) The whip came to me. 
 When I came out of the chapel, I fell down. My friends thought that 
 some bad sickness had come to me. I was led to my house. Whilst I 
 was lying, the greatness of my sins was shown to me. I was unable to 
 count them ; but this I know, they were as high as the mountains of the 
 world. While I was thus dark, I spoke to God, that my body and my soul 
 might be put to death. Great indeed was my darkness. During some days 
 I did not eat On the 2d of July, while praying, the light shone into my 
 soul, and, from that time, the growing greater of the love of God in my 
 heart commenced, and also the love of man, which has continued down ta 
 this day. This is all. From your loving child. 
 
 "From FAIRBAIRNE." 
 
 " FATHER ! This is my thought. Listen to me. Long ago this island 
 was lost in darkness. It was just as when a man is asleep in the night 
 There was no candle to give light Although the sun shone upon the 
 people of the land, the souls were dead. Afterwards, the Ministers of the 
 Gospel came. They caused the men to rise from their sleep. Then a 
 Missionary came to my village. Wallis was his name. He said to the 
 people, ' Friends, get up. Give over sleeping. Rise!' I heard that voice. 
 My heart complied with the book of God, spoken by that Minister. Then 
 stood the school at ' Three Kings.' I lived at this place. Here I am, 
 praising God who saved me. My soul consents to the book of God, who 
 is great and who lives. Here is the teacher of this school, pulling the 
 children and the men, that they may be brave to work the work of God. 
 Great is the strength to strive of this man, Mr. Reid, that the people 
 may be saved. My body and soul have been given to God. All that my 
 soul looks at, is, Jesus Christ upon the Cross. This is all my thought 
 
 " From WILLIAM BARTON." 
 
 "My LOVING FATHER YOUNG, Great is my love to the men of 
 England who have saved the people of New Zealand from the hand of
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 181 
 
 death. Let God be praised, who sent the Ministers of the Gospel to the 
 people of this island. When the men of England came here, the people 
 turned to the living God. Some did not turn to the Saviour. There is no 
 other Saviour but one. When the Ministers came, I was a child. When 
 I could hardly know, I went to Mr. Whiteley's place, to a meeting. Mr. 
 Whiteley spoke to the people. When my father heard, he considered, but 
 did not fully comply. The men spoke that the children should go to the 
 school at ' Three Kings.' The children came, then I came. When we 
 had crossed to the side of Kawhia- Harbour, my father came-in pursuit of 
 me. He did not wish me to go, lest I should die. He spoke to me. I 
 would not hear his speech, because I had heard that the school was good. 
 I was not willing to go back to foolishness. Then my father flew upon my 
 clothes. My shirt and my blanket were taken by him. I had no clothes 
 left, save one shirt. I was not dark, angry to my father. When we had 
 gone forty miles on our journey, and had come to the village, my father 
 appeared again, to take me back. Great was his beating of me. By my 
 heart seeing the love of God, I came to the ' Three Kings.' Great is the 
 goodness of the school, from the love of God. This is all. 
 
 " From MARTIN." 
 (Martin is a boy.) 
 
 " MY FATHER ! This is my talk. Formerly I did not know God. My 
 heart was evil only, and so was my body, and all my thoughts. In those 
 days I did not see good; but God sent his book and his servants. By this 
 book I was enlightened while in the depth of sin. This thing the sin 
 was a wonderful thing to my eyes, now that the book of God was come, 
 which called me out of darkness to this rejoicing. The first thing by 
 which I knew, was my listening to the word of God. The second thing 
 was my consenting to be God's man. The third was my receiving a 
 penitent heart for my sins. The fourth was my giving my body, and soul, 
 and spirit, and all, all my parts, that I might be a worker for God. I 
 have given my heart, and the love of God has been poured out, of which 
 it is not possible to speak. Great indeed is the depth of the love of God. 
 
 " My next talk is about Chatham Islands. My thought is, that the 
 ' John Wesley' should visit there. For many years I have striven with 
 the Ministers, that one of them should go there. You will arrange this. 
 They are dark. I do not say a Minister should live there. But let him 
 go to examine and baptize. I am very dark about this. My letter and 
 Mr. Reid's have reached them, and they have written complainingly. 
 Therefore, I say, let this be arranged by you. Let ' John Wesley' go there 
 every year. They have seen the book of God ; let them also see the man 
 book. Friend, let this be arranged by you. 
 
 " From PHILIP HANNAH." 
 
 " GOOD FRIEND! Listen to my thoughts. Before coming to this 
 school, my father spoke to me that I should forsake the works of the 
 children. I listened to my father: I was then a child. At that time there 
 was a man, who was almost a papist. I knew how to read. I had seen
 
 182 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 the laws. I knew that Jesus was the Saviour. I hastened to pray, hut 
 he got no light. I desired to go to this man. I strove with him. He 
 prayed, and his friends, with some others. Afterwards a Preacher came, 
 and he was instructed. This was the beginning of my desire to the good 
 work of God. I came to the school. I was taught by Mr. Reid. Great 
 was my desire for school. Great was the joy of my heart on seeing the 
 blessings. Listen to me! This is the thing that will make men Chiefs 
 the school. This is the thing which makes us glad while we read many 
 books. We read the Bible, and books which tell us about window-glass, 
 and pots in which iron is melted. A great many other good works which 
 have been given to us. With us here is a school, a teacher, a good house, 
 land, wheat, potatoes, horses, flour, rice, sugar, and clothing. Great is 
 our joy. Who then gave us these things? The white man, not our 
 fathers. Therefore we say, Let God be praised, and let England and those 
 other good countries be thanked. Great is the joy of our hearts. The 
 chief joy is the love of God in us. Therefore say I, for God shall be my 
 works. " From KEVERN." 
 
 (A very interesting boy.) 
 
 " MY LOVING FATHER YOUNG, This is my thought. Listen. From 
 the greatness of the love or God in your hearts, you sent Missionaries 
 hither, and teachers to save the men of this island. Great is the love of 
 the white man to the Maori in this island, in their trying to save the souls 
 of the people. Religion came not from our fathers to us. No, Sir, it 
 began with us, the young men. By the striving of the pakeha, (white 
 men,) and us by speaking the word, the fathers were led to believe. That 
 which they loved, was the gun and powder, to shoot men, that they might 
 die. This was my word to my fathers, ' It is not the gun, nor the powder, 
 nor yet the blanket, nor all the things of the white man, that forms the 
 true riches for us. But these riches are good for the body. The riches 
 for the soul is, faith in the word of God, and our heavenly Redeemer.' 
 They believed. Great was the joy of my heart. Our Chief went to preach 
 the word of God. I was his companion. The name of our Chief is 
 Robert Newton. He drew the men up to the good, because he was the 
 great Chief of my tribe. After this the whole people believed in God, and 
 were named the ' loving people.' This was after my coming to this school 
 at the ' Three Kings.' There is one evil that sticks to the people, the 
 thought to the land. But, by the prayers of the sacred people, all these 
 evils shall be destroyed. This is all my word to you. From your loving 
 child. "From MORGAN." 
 
 " GREAT FRIEND, Listen to my thought Great is my grief for my 
 foolishness. By the Gospel I was made to know the things of God. I 
 was overtaken while sitting with a sick body and sick soul ; therefore my 
 thought knew the love of God was great to me, the wicked boy. And may 
 God himself teach my soul the good things! Do not let your heart be 
 dark. Rather praise God. Let the good of the men of this land be 
 enlarged. It is a right thing that God should be praised for giving his
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 183 
 
 Book to the men of this island. The way to heaven has been shown, and 
 all the good things by which men may secure blessings. Be not weary 
 in well-doing. " From TAMATI." 
 
 "FRIEND, How do you do? This is my talk to you. I was a wicked 
 man while 1 lived in my natural state, while I prayed foolishly to God, 
 while I was ignorant of God's word. Now that my heart is renewed, while 
 1 pray, great is the sweetness of the word of God to my heart. Therefore 
 I pray constantly to God in these days. Christ's word in Matt. vi. 6, is 
 my light, with other of the words of God. Sweet indeed is the word of 
 God to my soul. My heart truly knows God. My soul truly clings to 
 Jesus Christ. My heart truly loves him. I worship God truly. I know 
 that God is my Father, that I am a child of his. The works which I 
 work are done for God. That which makes me afraid is, lest my Father 
 should be grieved by me. My talk shall not now be lengthened to you. 
 This is all about the matter. 
 
 " Here is the greatness of my desires for the majority of the natives. 
 Many of the men of this island have been baptized, but they have returned 
 to evil. They knew not God. They are foolish with respect to the things 
 of God. Here is another thing, there is no desire in the foolish man to 
 give his child to the school, that he may be taught from the book of God. 
 Some are willing, being desirous to know figures, that they may know 
 how to buy and sell, but not the word of God. The things of the body are 
 things which are chiefly desired by the Maoris. But this is my desire, 
 to pray to God that this foolish thought may be lessened in all the island. 
 This is my thought, Let schools be multiplied in all the villages, that the 
 children may be taught the word of God. With us is land for schools. 
 Great is my desire that the children should know the word of God, because 
 this is a very foolish people. Strive continually in prayer that the strong 
 wall of Satan may be overthrown. Here is the great evil of the Maori, 
 laziness to work. Because of this, love to God is feeble. But by this 
 thing, by the schools, shall it be known ; because it is from the fathers 
 that the evil comes. They allow the children to be masters ; and from 
 this the children are disobedient to their parents. Therefore, I say, let 
 the islands be covered with schools, that the whole of this country may be 
 for God. This is from your loving child. 
 
 "From JOHN EGGLESTON."
 
 184 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 CHAPTER IX, 
 
 INTERVIEW with natives Tattooing Cannibalism Statements of 
 Christian natives A Christian Chief Land squabbles Letter from a 
 Chief Anniversary of Captain Cook's discovery of New Zealand 
 Massacres Canoes Intellectual character of the natives John Hobbs 
 Review of the work Bishop Selwyn Missionaries Colonization 
 Colonists Departure for the Friendly Isles. 
 
 ON the 1st of October I had an interview with several 
 natives from different parts of the country, and obtained from 
 them a great deal of valuable information. The colour of the 
 New Zealanders is a light clear brown, varying very much in 
 shade, being sometimes lighter than that of a native of the 
 south of France; the nose is straight, and well shaped, often 
 aquiline; the mouth generally large, and the lips in many 
 cases more developed than those of Europeans. The eyes are 
 dark, and full of vivacity and expression ; the hair is generally 
 black and lank, or slightly curled; the teeth are white and 
 regular, and last to old age; the feet and hands are well 
 proportioned, the former, being uncovered, are in a healthy 
 development, and a native laughs at what he considers our 
 misshaped feet. Their features are prominent, but regular; 
 the expression of the face quiet and composed, showing great 
 self-command; and their physiognomy bears no signs of 
 ferocity, but is easy, open, and pleasing. The women are not 
 in general as handsome as the men, though many of them, 
 when clean and neatly attired, are said to be very interesting 
 and attractive. The children of both sexes, with their free, 
 open, and confident behaviour, are generally favourites. Brought 
 up in the society of adults, partaking in the councils of their 
 fathers, the mental faculties seem to be awakened and sharpened 
 earlier than is the case in more civilized countries. Several of 
 the natives that I saw were variously tattooed, which gave to
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 185 
 
 them a very peculiar appearance. The tattoo, or moko, (its 
 native name,) is done either with the sharp bone of a bird, or 
 with a small chisel, called uki. The candidate for this dis- 
 tinction reposes his head upon the knees of the operator, who 
 drives the chisel into the skin with his hand. Each time, the 
 chisel is dipped into a pigment called marahee, which is 
 prepared by carbonizing the resin of the kauri-pine, and after 
 each incision the blood is wiped off. The persons operated 
 upon never allow the slightest expression of pain to escape 
 them ; and, after the inflammation has passed away, the regular 
 and clear scars appear dark. The tattooing of the lips is the 
 most painful part of the operation. The moTco is the same 
 in all tribes, and does not form what might be called the arms 
 of the individual; neither is it given as a reward for valiant 
 deeds. Nor is it an enforced ceremony, but any one may have 
 it done or not, according to his wishes. Neither is it in many 
 cases complete, but often remains unfinished. " The complete 
 tattoo comprises the face, the posteriors, and the anterior part 
 of the thighs to above the knees." The girls as soon as they 
 arrive at a certain period have their lips tattooed with hori- 
 zontal lines, to have red lips being a great reproach to a 
 woman. With females, in many cases, the operation ceases 
 here; but more frequently, I understand, the chin is tattooed, 
 especially in the Waikato tribe, and the space between the eye- 
 brows, much resembling the tattoo of the modern Egyptians; 
 and, in some rare cases, it extends over the angles of the 
 mouth. The general effect of the tattoo is to give the face a 
 rigorous and unchangeable appearance; and it prevents the 
 symptoms of age from becoming visible so early as they other- 
 wise would. The tattoo of the lips, however, in women, gives 
 them a livid, deadly appearance, certainly not to their advantage. 
 The reasons the men assign for their observing the custom 
 are, first, it increases, as they think, their beauty, makes them 
 admired by the ladies, who are not supposed to fall in love with 
 a plain face ; and, secondly, it secures the preservation of their 
 heads when dead, as an untattooed face is not considered 
 worth preserving. The faces of some of the old men were
 
 186 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 elaborately, and, as far as art was concerned, beautifully carved. 
 Most of the young men present on the occasion this morning 
 exhibited but few lines, some not any; but the practice still 
 obtains to some extent, and will doubtless do so, until Christi- 
 anity becomes more prevalent, and takes a deeper hold upon 
 the native population : then, like every other pagan custom, 
 it must perish. 
 
 The practice of marking the skin appears to have been in 
 use among the ancients. Hence the Mosaic prohibition, Lev. 
 xix. 28 : " Ye shall not make any cuttings in your flesh for 
 the dead, nor print any marks upon you." These were doubtless 
 customs of neighbouring tribes, connected with idolatrous 
 worship. Men printed marks upon their flesh in honour of the 
 objects they worshipped. Herodotus mentions it as prevailing 
 among the Thracians, who considered that " to be marked with 
 punctures was a sign of noble birth." Among the Greeks these 
 marks were called stigmata. To these St. Paul is supposed 
 to refer when he says, " I bear in my body the marks (stigmata) 
 of the Lord Jesus." Caesar remarks it as prevailing among the 
 Britons, and Pliny says they introduced the juice of the 
 plantain into punctures made in the skin, so as to form a per- 
 manent delineation of various objects. 
 
 In my interview with the natives at this period, I learned 
 that many on whom I gazed with not a little emotion had been 
 cannibals. Tradition among the New Zealanders says, this 
 revolting practice originated with the demi-gods. " Rongo? 
 god of the Kumera; " Tane" god of the trees and birds; 
 " Tangaroa," god of the sea and fish ; " ffaumsea," god of 
 fern- root; and " Tu" god of war, were also brothers. Tu 
 ate them all ! This was the commencement among the gods. 
 Tradition does not speak uniformly of its origin amongst men. 
 One tradition says, that it originated with Manaia, who killed 
 and ate an adulterer, in detestation of his crime. Another 
 says, it began with Mahanga, who, to avenge his father's death, 
 killed and ate KohaJio, the son of his father's murderer. 
 
 This frightful custom among the New Zealanders was con- 
 nected with their wars. It does not appear that they ate
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 187 
 
 human flesh because they preferred it as an article of food; 
 nor did they kill their slaves to make a feast for their visitors, 
 but invariably to gratify revenge. Prisoners of war alone were 
 the victims, and revenge the principal motive. Perhaps in 
 some cases it was connected with the idea that to eat the flesh 
 of the warrior would endue them with his valour and bravery. 
 A Chief was often satisfied with the left eye of his enemy, which 
 was considered the seat of the soul. Any detail on this subject 
 would be too revolting; but it may be remarked that great 
 insult was offered, and great indignities practised on the bodies 
 of their enemies. They would often torture the victim, heat 
 the oven, throw him alive on the hot stones, and tear his flesh 
 with the cannibal knife tuatini. The skull was used as a drink- 
 ing cup, the teeth hung to their ears, their bones made into 
 forks, and some into needles with which to sew dog-skin mats. 
 These mats are valued the more for being sewed with the 
 bones of their enemies. The collar-bone made a frame for a 
 bird-snare, and rings for the legs of decoy-parrots were made 
 out of the leg-bones. A brighter day, thank God, has dawned ; 
 and now I found the people ashamed of those things that they 
 had formerly done in darkness. To name the horrid custom 
 is sufficient to raise the blush of shame, and cause the New 
 Zealander to turn away in disgust at the inhumanity of his 
 former deeds. The last authentic account of cannibalism was 
 the case at Tauranga, in 1842 or 1843, by Taraia, who caught 
 the people as they came out of their place of worship, and in 
 a few minutes had several of them in the oven. Taraia was 
 in Auckland, only a few days ago, and was pointed out to me 
 as the individual who possessed the unenviable distinction of 
 having completed the list of those who indulged in the horrid 
 custom of cooking and eating men.* 
 
 Much has been written on the origin of the New Zealanders, 
 and without entering into any minute examination of the sub- 
 ject, it may be remarked, that their fine and regular cast of 
 countenance, the Jewish expression of their features, the very 
 
 * See an able pamphlet by that very excellent Missionary the Rev. T 
 Buddie, on " The Aborigines of New Zealand."
 
 188 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 light colour of their skin, their religious ideas, several words 
 in their language, and the whole of their customs, indicate an 
 Asiatic origin, and remind us of that primitive Asiatico- African 
 civilization which attained its greatest height under the Empires 
 of the Phoenicians, Syrians, and Carthaginians, and confirm 
 their relation to nations whose birthplace is Asia. 
 
 October 2d. Preached morning and evening to overflowing 
 congregations. The gentleman sustaining the highest civil 
 office in Auckland was present, and some Roman Catholics, 
 besides Jews and Infidels. In the afternoon several native 
 Christians met me, and at my request gave some account of 
 their views and feelings on the subject of religion. They 
 spoke with much modesty and simplicity, and certainly much 
 to my edification. The Rev. T. Buddie translated with great 
 ease as they spoke, and a person present took notes of what 
 was said. I give the following as specimens : 
 
 John. " These are my thoughts. I am not going back to old times. I 
 do not intend to speak of our former condition, but simply to talk of my 
 present experience of the things of God. When the word of God first 
 found me, it made me feel that I was the greatest sinner of all the world. 
 It told me, too, that Jesus Christ died for the chief of sinners. What I 
 want to say just now is, that I feel Jesus Christ died for me ; that he has 
 redeemed me from all my sins. I feel persuaded you are going to heaven. 
 I am rejoiced in my heart to know that I am going there too. You believe 
 in Jesus Christ, and hope to get to heaven through him. Now, if you get 
 to heaven through Jesus Christ, I shall certainly be with you, for I feel 
 that he is my Saviour, and has redeemed me from my sins. This is all I 
 have to say." 
 
 William. " This was a dark laud in days of old. It was lost in dark- 
 ness. I was lost in darkness, too. In due time the light of the Gospel 
 shone upon the land. It also shone upon me. Missionaries came, and 
 preached the word. When I heard, my heart yielded. I received the 
 word, and gave my soul and body to God. I am told that those who have 
 got to heaven, went there by faith. Their path was the path of faith. 
 Now, I am walking in the same path. Jesus is the gate by which we enter; 
 faith is the pathway. My heart rejoices that I am travelling in this way, 
 and hope to continue in it to the end." 
 
 Isabella. " These are my thoughts that are inside my heart In the 
 days of my ignorance I sat in darkness, and knew not there was a Saviour 
 for me. When I was first awakened I saw my darkness and misery, and 
 my heart cried. My heart did not tell me to look up to God. I could 
 not. I could do nothing but look at my sins. I continued thus for a long
 
 TUB SOUTHERN WOKLD. 189 
 
 time, and could only tell God what a great sinner I was, and nobody 
 could save me but himself. The darkness began to break. A little light 
 reached my heart, and God said, ' Come unto me, and I will give thee 
 rest.' While I was listening and looking, greater light broke over my soul. 
 The words of my heart went up to God. I said, I have been very wicked, 
 I have been disobedient long. Now take my body, take my soul ; I give 
 all to thee. God took me for his child. I can now rejoice in God my 
 Saviour. I have one thought, the path to heaven is laid, and made plain 
 to me through Jesus Christ. My great desire is, that I may cleave to 
 God ; that he may never remove to a distance from me ; that I may never 
 be separated from him. I wish to glorify him as long as I live." 
 
 Sarah. " My thought is, that I was one of the greatest sinners in all the 
 world. When I was continuing in sin, I said within myself, The finish of 
 these things will be death. When I came to live at the ' Three Kings' ' 
 School, I found the word was preached by day and by night. No day 
 passed, and no night passed by without the word of God being spoken. I 
 found, too, that they prayed day and night; and I was led to give my 
 heart to God. I said to God, ' Here is my heart.' I gave all myself to 
 God. I did not divide myself, but gave the whole of me to God. He 
 took me, and I am his. The desire of my soul is, to love him, and to sit 
 with him for ever." 
 
 William Naylor. " These are my recollections about the days of old. I 
 knew nothing about God. I thought the devil was God, and served him 
 until the Missionaries came to us and preached the Word. Our work in 
 olden times was to kill men. This was our delight, to cut them off, and 
 finish them up. This took up all our thoughts. We knew not there was a 
 God, and a Saviour that died for us, till Missionaries arrived amongst us. 
 They preached to us ; they taught us it was our duty to serve God ; they 
 prayed for us ; and I was given to see that the path I walked in led to hell. 
 I saw another path that led to heaven, and sought to walk in it. I have 
 not been true. I fell once, like my forefather David. I was in great dark- 
 ness, and had no light. Nothing was straight for a long time. Then I 
 was reminded of David getting up again, and becoming a straight man, 
 and was enabled to return to God. I feel that Jesus Christ died for me, 
 and redeemed me by his death ; and my wish is to give my heart and 
 soul to God. The path to heaven is plain. I am walking along it I 
 never intend to turn out of it all the days that lie before." 
 
 Fairbourne. " How do ye do ? I salute you in love. Our father has 
 come to visit us. The news of your coming, Mr. Young, reached us a 
 year ago. We have been looking for you ever since. My expectation 
 never forsook me. I never forgot it. My heart looked towards it con- 
 stantly. And, just as I have been expecting your coming, I am looking 
 for the coming of Christ. I did not know when you would come to us. 
 I do not know when Christ will come, whether at even, or cock-crowing, 
 or in the morning ; but my hope is fixed upon it, because he hath said to 
 his disciples, ' If I go away, I will come again and receive you unto my- 
 self, that where I am ye may be also.' I know that he will come ; and I
 
 190 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 shall be with him. My hope is in heaven. I wait for it. These are all 
 my thoughts." 
 
 Morgan. "These are my thoughts. When I hear of the people of God 
 that have got home, it makes joy rise in my heart, because I feel that the 
 path by which they went to heaven is the path I have chosen ; and I hope 
 to reach heaven as they have done, and to see them there. My heart is 
 now looking up to my Father in heaven. He loves me. My heart is 
 continually walking up to God, who is the Father of my spirit You, 
 Mr. Young, I do not expect to see any more on the earth ; but I do hope to 
 meet you in heaven. Jehovah is my God; Christ is my'Saviour; heaven 
 is my home. That is all." 
 
 Philip. " In my old state I was a great thief. I used to steal the 
 property of a great King. When committing the theft, I was arrested, 
 and cast into prison. While I lay there, a kind Friend had compassion 
 upon me, came to me, and ransomed me. He paid down a great price for 
 my ransom, and I was made free. What I mean, I was a great sinner, 
 a great thief, for I robbed God : but Jesus Christ came, and paid down a 
 ransom forme; he redeemed me with his precious blood. I came to the 
 Institution at Auckland, in 1848. It was here I was first convinced of sin. 
 It was when Mr. Buddie preached, on the 12th of January, from this 
 word : ' The wicked shall be turned into hell, and all the people that 
 forget God.' The word knocked me down. I fell quite to the ground, and 
 felt that I was just hanging over the mouth of the pit, ready to drop in. 
 I looked about for help. I saw no refuge. My heart failed. I was 
 sinking. Then Jesus came, and I saw the love of God. I cast myself on 
 his love: he took me from the pit pardoned my sin ; and I gave myself 
 to him, my hands, my feet, all my body, to be servants for God, and 
 all my soul too. I am his, and I am going to heaven, the home he has 
 made for us all. This is all I have to say." 
 
 Timona. " This meeting warms my heart. When I look back, I see 
 that we had no such meetings as these in days of old. Until Missionaries 
 came to this land, we saw no week like this. They brought the news that 
 Jesus died for us. If that news had not reached us, we had all perished. 
 There was one thing that stirred us up in this place, and made the work of 
 God revive. It was the death of a Missionary. He fell down dead in 
 this house (alluding to the sudden death of the Rev. J. Skevington). If 
 it had not been for that death in a moment, the work of God amongst us 
 would not have been so great. We saw. him die. We saw the greatness 
 of religion. We began to feel more its goodness, because it makes ready 
 for death. I began to feel that I must seek the salvation of my soul, lest 
 God should take me away in a moment. I began to seek, and on the 16th 
 of March, 1847, I heard Mr. Buddie preach from Acts ii. 23, and I felt I 
 was the man. It came home to my heart. I did it myself: I crucified 
 my Saviour with my own hands ; I nailed him to the cross ; I put him to 
 death. All this I did by my sins. I felt that he died for me, and com- 
 mitted myself to him. Then, and there, I gave myself to Jesus, and now 
 I am his. My desire is, at all times to stick to him, to keep close to 
 Jesus, and get nearer still. This is all."
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 191 
 
 Mason. " I speak my native thoughts of olden times. I was a bad man, 
 the chief of sinners in all the world. God dragged meout of Satan's prison. 
 When I was sitting in that bad place, I did not know it. I was ignorant 
 of my state. When the word of God was first preached to me, I would 
 not listen to it. The thought of my heart was, that the talk about God 
 was all lies. Because of these things, I said I was the greatest sinner in 
 all the world. After I had learned the word for some time, I began to see 
 how crooked my thoughts were, and how wicked I had been. I heard 
 about good men of former times, of Noah, of Abraham. I thought they 
 were good examples for me, and I began to follow them. Then I heard 
 of Jesus Christ, that he died for my sins, and I gave myself to him. I 
 saw that he is my great examplar, my guide, my Saviour; and I pray 
 constantly to Jesus Christ that He may lead me to His kingdom. This 
 is all my thought." 
 
 It will be seen from these specimens that New Zealanders, 
 formerly enveloped in darkness, filled with malignity, and 
 covered with blood, have received with meekness the engrafted 
 word, and happily realized its saving and transforming power. 
 The earnestness and deep feeling with which they spoke 
 evinced their sincerity, and told of the glory which dwelt 
 within; and the testimony of their Pastors to their generally 
 upright walk and conversation was highly satisfactory. 
 
 3d. I had the pleasure of an interview with William Nay- 
 lor, or Tawaiti, at the residence of Mr. Lawry. He is principal 
 Chief of Waingaroa, and has been one of the most celebrated 
 warriors of modern Maori history. Often has he led on his 
 tribes to deeds of blood and cannibalism, and distinguished 
 himself above his fellows in times of war. He was one of 
 the principal Chiefs in the wars on the Taranaki people; was 
 often engaged in slaying the weaker tribes of that district, 
 feasting on the bodies of the slain, and enslaving their women 
 and children, a very great number of whom were held in bond- 
 age by him and his people, before they embraced Christianity. 
 When the Gospel reached him, he had a number of wives, 
 mainly brought from Taranaki. On embracing the truth, he 
 put them all away, save one, to whom he was married accord- 
 ing to Christian custom. He was one of the first of the native 
 Chiefs who returned their slaves to their homes. When he 
 received the truth, and was told that slavery was contrary to
 
 192 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 God's word, be gave all his slaves liberty to return home. 
 Most of them did so, and he was the means of inducing other 
 Chiefs to do the same. He is a fine character, naturally shrewd, 
 intelligent, and courageous. Christianity has sanctified his 
 intellect, and brought out the firmness and energy of his 
 character on the side of truth and justice. William has 
 always been ready to promote peace and good-will among 
 men, to defend the oppressed, and maintain the cause 
 of the injured. Many a long journey he has travelled 
 >A to make peace between contending parties, or prevent the 
 shedding of blood. He has even followed heathen parties to 
 the remote district of Taranaki, who have gone on expeditions 
 of blood, to prevent their killing and eating the people; and 
 not unfrequently brought them home, having succeeded in 
 defeating their object. In this way he has made some little 
 restitution for his former deeds of cruelty. He embraced 
 Christianity about eighteen years ago, and has had a Mis- 
 sionary living with him for at least fifteen years. He is much 
 respected among the tribes, and exerts a most salutary 
 influence through the Waikato district. He is a great friend 
 of Europeans, and always ready to promote the spread of 
 Christianity. His face is partially tattooed; and he is about 
 fifty years of age. 
 
 I had the following conversation with him, my willing friend 
 Mr. Buddie acting as interpreter. 
 
 " I am glad to see you, and was pleased to hear you speak 
 of Jesus yesterday." 
 
 " I spoke the truth. My word was straight." 
 
 " Have you any message to send to the good people in 
 England, who have supported Missionaries among you 1 ? They 
 will be very glad to learn that their labour has not been in 
 vain." 
 
 " Tell them what I said yesterday. I could have said more, 
 much more, but I did not wish to boast. I owe all to Christi- 
 anity. I live because of this, and might have given you 
 much more talk, but I feared lest I should exalt myself. There 
 is one thing in the land which gives us trouble. Only one
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 193 
 
 thing that disturbs my mind, and makes me feel confusion all 
 over, it is the constant squabbles we have about land." 
 " What do you think is the cause of these squabbles'?" 
 " Think of your own garden. You make yourselves a 
 garden; fence it, cultivate it, and when you have got it 
 straight, some fellow pounces upon it, says he will have it, and 
 tries to take it. In such cases, you can soon get the matter 
 settled; but we cannot settle it so easily. We can only sit 
 down upon our land, and say, ' You shall not have it.' Then 
 the struggle begins. One cause of this dispute is the coming 
 of the white man to our country, and the money he has brought. 
 Our land is worth money now. Formerly, when a tribe thought 
 themselves insulted or injured, they went and took a piece of 
 land as utu, (payment,) and we allowed them to do so. Now, 
 the native man holds fast his land." 
 
 "How do you think these disputes can be prevented?" 
 " There is only one thing that will end them, that is, 
 Christianity. If all men's hearts were changed by the grace 
 of God, we should not have trouble. If the Chiefs would for- 
 sake the thoughts of the native heart, give up native customs, 
 and take the law of God for their rule, then should we have 
 peace. No law but God's law will put things straight. My 
 own heart dwells on the word of Christ, in the 5th chapter of 
 Matthew, that says, 'Blessed are the peacemakers, for they 
 shall be called the children of God;' and upon that word, in 
 the 15th of John, that says, 'Now ye are clean through the 
 word I have spoken unto you. Abide in me, and I in you.' 
 Now, if all the Chiefs would look at these words, and make 
 these words straight in their works, then should we be at peace." 
 "Very good. I am glad to hear you refer to the word 
 of God as the rule of life, and that you seek to promote peace." 
 " This is my foundation. I take my stand on this word. 
 This is my law. Not that I have found this out for myself: 
 it was God that taught me this word. I have had much to 
 endure for the sake of peace. Some envy me, and are jealous 
 of my influence. If I were like them, I should pay them back 
 again ; but I feel it better to endure, that we may sit in peace.
 
 194 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 Should any serious evil arise when you have left us, I must 
 still look to the Missionaries; and if they want help they must 
 send across the water to you, and you and the fathers there 
 must help them." 
 
 " The Queen is very anxious to promote your welfare ; she 
 loves her subjects in New Zealand, and wishes them to be 
 happy." 
 
 " Perhaps," said Rakina, who was present, " if the Queen were 
 to make a Maori King, and give him authority over the native 
 tribes, he might put down all these things. A good man like 
 William, with such power, might do much to make and keep 
 peace." This proposition evidently did not meet with William's 
 approbation. 
 
 4rth. I received the following letter from a Christian Chief. 
 It is written in Maori, and the translation is by Mr. Buddie. 
 It is evidently intended for Christians in England : 
 
 " October 4th, 1853. 
 
 " Go, my letter, to ny European relatives, to my beloved 
 friends. I send this to you, because ye are friends. From the 
 greatness of your love you supplied money to send Ministers 
 here, to bring the Gospel of God to this island, that I might 
 hear the word of God and live. When they reached us, I was 
 sitting in darkness and in wickedness, but the Gospel of God 
 took me up out of the wickedness; and therefore I write my 
 letter to the Ministers and Elders in England, to the sacred 
 men of God, to the men that believe. 
 
 " Friends, I salute you. Ye children of the light, listen you 
 to my thought. When I was sitting at the ' Three Kings' I 
 heard the talk about Christ's coming into the world. Then I 
 began to have thoughts about the meaning of the love of God 
 to me. At this time great is the joy of my heart to God; and 
 my desire is, that my heart may walk always to God. Friends, 
 my heart does not forget to pray to my God; because thus 
 saith the word to the people of Thessalonia, ' Rejoice ever- 
 more. Pray without ceasing. Quench not the Spirit.' 
 
 " This is what I have to say : though you may never see me
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 195 
 
 in the body, there is a place where we shall see each other in 
 body and soul, when the Son of Man shall come. While Mr. 
 Young was with you, I did not know him; now I have really 
 seen his person. So it is with my thoughts about you. As 
 I have seen him, so I hope to see you sitting at the right hand 
 of God, and myself also. I pray for my Ministers and teachers. 
 Do you pray for my people to God, that he may soften them, 
 and make them willing to send their children to be taught. 
 Mr. Whiteley'and myself have been to talk with them about 
 their children; but they have no mind to send them to the 
 ' Three Kings' to school. But I pray continually for my people 
 to God, as for myself. I feel in my thought, I am a child of 
 God. True is my word, and I think of the word of Christ, 
 which saith, ' Be thou faithful unto death;' and therefore never 
 intend to end my prayer to God. This is all." 
 
 5th. It is just 85 years, this day, since Captain Cook first 
 saw New Zealand. It had been discovered 126 years previ- 
 ously by Tasman, but no farther account was taken of it 
 until the visit of the celebrated circumnavigator, on October 5, 
 1768. There is, however, ground to believe, from certain com- 
 munications made by the natives to this distinguished seaman, 
 that some European ship had touched on the coast a short time 
 before his arrival; but, as the visit was never reported in 
 England, there is too much reason to apprehend that the 
 vessel foundered at sea. During Cook's risit, he unfortunately 
 involved himself in a quarrel with some natives, which resulted 
 in the shedding of innocent blood, and the exasperation of the 
 people ; and although he endeavoured to palliate, if not defend 
 his conduct, yet it is evident that he was the aggressor. 
 While Cook was on the coast, a French ship arrived, com- 
 manded by M. de Surville, whom the natives kindly received. 
 The Chiefs bestowed upon the invalids of his crew the greatest 
 attention ; one of them surrendered his house for their accom- 
 modation, supplied them k with the best food he could provide, 
 and would not accept the smallest compensation. But this 
 humane conduct was most cruelly requited. Surville, having 
 
 K2
 
 19G TUB SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 missed one of his small boats, probably lost during the storm 
 which he had encountered, and suspecting that the natives had 
 stolen it, determined to be avenged for his supposed injury. 
 Accordingly, seeing one of the Chiefs on the shore, he invited 
 him, with many professions of friendship, to come on board the 
 ship : he complied, and at once found himself a prisoner. 
 Not satisfied with this outrageous treachery, he next gave 
 orders that a village, to which he pointed, should be set on 
 fire, and it was accordingly burnt to the ground. This was 
 found to be the very village in which his sick men had a few 
 days before been so kindly received ; and the Chief whom he 
 had inveigled on board was the generous Naginoui, who had 
 acted towards them the part of the good Samaritan, which greatly 
 aggravated the crime committed against personal freedom and 
 property. The unfortunate captive was carried away from his 
 own country by the stranger whom he had assisted; but he 
 did not long survive the separation from his family and the land 
 of his birth, but died of a broken heart about three months 
 afterwards, on his passage to Peru. 
 
 In 1771 the Court of France despatched two vessels to New 
 Zealand, under the command of M. Marion, with instructions 
 that, after attending to some less important objects, he should 
 make himself intimately acquainted with the resources of the 
 two islands recently visited by the English navigator. On his 
 arrival he established an amicable intercourse with the natives, 
 which continued without interruption for about five weeks, when 
 a fearful massacre took place. The Captain having gone on 
 shore with a party of 16 men, including 4 ofiicers, they all were 
 attacked, murdered, and eaten. Next morning a boat's crew 
 landed for the purpose of procuring wood and water, and being 
 still free from suspicion, allowed themselves to be surrounded 
 by a multitude of the savages, who put to death 11 of the 12 
 individuals of whom the party consisted. The survivor saw 
 the dead bodies of his companions cut up, and divided among 
 the assassins, each of whom carried away the portion he had 
 received. This horrid deed of treachery, cruelty, and blood, 
 was doubtlessly the result of Surville's atrocity. The one
 
 TUB SOUTHERN WORLD. 197 
 
 French commander reaped what the other had so wickedly 
 sown. 
 
 Nor did Cook, who had shed innocent blood, escape retribu- 
 tion. On his second voyage, whilst one of his vessels lay in 
 Ships'-Cove, a boat was sent on shore under the care of a 
 midshipman, with instructions to gather a few wild greens, 
 and to return in the evening. The crew, which consisted of 
 10 men, were killed, cooked, and eaten. It would appear 
 from these, and other well-authenticated facts, that the mas- 
 sacre of ships' crews in New Zealand, and in various islands of 
 the Pacific, is to be regarded generally, if not invariably, as 
 the consequence of injuries sustained by the natives in their 
 intercourse with white men ; and as in many cases the inno- 
 cent have suffered for the guilty, the most stringent laws 
 ought to be enacted against any outrage committed by the 
 crews of' vessels on the natives of those islands. 
 
 6th. Several native canoes having arrived, I went down to 
 the beach to see them. They were each formed of a single 
 kauri tree, and some of them forty feet long. Others, I un- 
 derstood, were double that length. Formerly a stone adze 
 was the only implement used in their construction, but that 
 has been superseded by an iron one. The workmanship was 
 of the plainest description. The figure-heads of some of them 
 showed a great deal of Carving, remarkable chiefly for its 
 regularity, and the vast amount of time and patience which 
 must have been spent upon it. These figures were generally 
 carved with the tongues protruding two or three inches, to 
 express, according to New Zealand custom, derision of their 
 enemies. The sails were triangular, and made of the light 
 raupo rushes. The canoes are steered by a paddle, and can 
 sail very close to the wind. 
 
 These canoes having brought together parties who had for 
 some time been separated, the usual salutation of rubbing 
 noses took place. Food was then provided. A round hole 
 was made in the ground, into which a layer of stones was put ; 
 then fire, and upon the fire a covering of stones. When the 
 oven was sufficiently heated, the embers were taken out, green
 
 198 THE SOUTHERN WOELD. 
 
 leaves laid on the stones, then potatoes, and on the top of them 
 the meat they desired to cook. A small quantity of water 
 was now thrown on, to create steam ; more leaves were added 
 and placed on the meat, and the whole covered over with a 
 layer of earth, to prevent the escape of the steam. Food 
 cooked in this manner I understand is most excellent, and any 
 quantity can be made ready at the same time. The process, 
 however, takes a good deal of time and trouble, and iron pots 
 are now generally adopted. When the food was cooked, it 
 was served up in small baskets, made of the flax leaves. 
 
 7th. Having had a good deal of intercourse with natives 
 since my arrival in New Zealand, and being very anxious to 
 obtain a correct knowledge of their character, I came to the 
 conclusion, from what I heard and saw of them, that their 
 intellectual capacity is of a high order. Many of them have 
 fine intelligent countenances, with the expansive forehead of a 
 philosopher. The shortest intercourse with them is quite suffi- 
 cient to satisfy any one that he is dealing with minds in no 
 degree inferior to his own, and that knowledge only is wanting 
 to enable them to become formidable rivals in mental attain- 
 ments. They are admirable speakers: their manner is very 
 animated, and full of natural and appropriate gesture. Speech- 
 making is their favourite amusement, and forms the regular 
 social entertainment. On occasion* of a ceremonious meeting, 
 I was told, their behaviour would bear a very favourable 
 comparison with the best-conducted meetings in civilized 
 countries. A New Zealand audience listens to the speaker 
 with the utmost attention; nor is there any chance of his 
 meeting with interruption ; on the contrary, he will be listened 
 to in the most profound silence, so long as he may continue to 
 address them. To make up for the want of a platform, which 
 obtains for our speakers the better attention of the audience, 
 the New Zealand orator secures an opening in the assembly, 
 so as to permit him to advance and retreat for the space of 
 10 or 12 yards. A sentence is delivered while he advances, 
 ample room being thus given for all the energy and effect 
 which the united powers of mind and muscular exertion can
 
 THE SOUTHERN WOULD. 199 
 
 accomplish; and when he retreats he finds time to arrange his 
 thoughts, as well as to obtain a temporary rest for his muscles. 
 In this way they continue alternately advancing and retreat- 
 ing until they have exhausted their ideas. When their speech 
 is of much importance, every sentence is repeated. In such 
 exhibitions they find their chief pleasure; but on ordinary 
 occasions they are continually talking with each other, show- 
 ing that their pleasures are evidently of an intellectual cha- 
 racter.* 
 
 8th. Had a conversation with John Hobbs, an intelligent 
 New Zealander, about 30 years of age. He belonged originally 
 to the Ngatimaniapoto tribe, Rawhia, but was taken captive in 
 war by a Waikato Chief. He subsequently became connected 
 with Tomati Waka, (Thomas Walker,) the hero of Hokianga, 
 and ally ef the British troops in the war with Heki and Kawiti, 
 in 1845 and 1846. John greatly distinguished himself during 
 the campaign, and became a great favourite among the officers, 
 and with His Excellency the Governor. He was the only man 
 who volunteered to join the troops in a desperate attack upon 
 Heki's pa; and was the instrument of saving the troops on 
 one occasion when Kawiti had left his fortification, and formed 
 an ambush on the outskirts of the forest. John discovered the 
 hiding-place, gave timely warning, and to him our troops 
 ascribe their escape from a surprise that might have cost them 
 much loss of life. His conduct induced His Excellency to bring 
 him to Auckland, where he had resided since the termination 
 of the war, employed as a messenger in the Native Secretary's 
 Office, and living in a house provided for him by the Govern- 
 ment. He is a member of the Wesleyan church, and a regular 
 attendant on the means of grace. 
 
 ,..._ The following conversation took place between John and 
 myself, my valued friend Mr. Buddie kindly interpreting. 
 
 " How long have you been a Christian 1 ?" 
 
 "My first believing was like children playing. I was in 
 ignorance. I did not believe straight. It was when Mr. 
 Turner lived amongst us." 
 
 * See Brown's " New Zealand."
 
 200 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 "When did you then really believe, and gain true religion?" 
 
 "It is twelve years ago, when my friend and companion 
 Isaacs died. As he was dying, he said to us, ' Be strong, and 
 believe, after I am gone.' We were all assembled to see him 
 die, all the Chiefs and people ; and I ventured to ask, ' Who 
 will lift up this word, and make it straight?' Repo, a Chief, 
 said, 'It will all end; and when Isaac is gone we shall have no 
 more of this work.' So said all. But though I was the least 
 and alone, I said, ' This word shall be made straight by me.' 
 I then became decided for God, and made a true oath that I 
 would serve him. The Chiefs and others told me I should not 
 be true ; but I vowed to God, and told them I would there and 
 then give up all my sins; all that I had loved in the world, 
 and all that was wrong, I would cast off at once, and give 
 myself to the Lord. So I did. They called to me, 'Be true 
 then.' I told them that I would be true till I died; and I 
 went to Mr. Hobbs and told him, then to Mr. Woon and told 
 him, and we had much talk about it, and they became my 
 friends. After this I never joined in the native wars or 
 customs. I was in the late wars against Heki, but I said that 
 was a straight war. He had shed the blood of the innocent, 
 and I saw it to be right to join the Europeans against him. 
 My heart was light all the time I was engaged. I did not 
 feel any darkness or fear. When the war ended, the Governor 
 wished me to come to Auckland, and enter the mounted police ; 
 but I did not like this, and said, 'It is bad work. Do you 
 wish me to be ruined ?' He said it was good work, and I 
 must engage in it. I told him I could not obey his word in 
 this thing, but would ask my Ministers about it. To my own 
 thoughts it was bad for the spirit, and I had no mind to it." 
 
 " I shall be glad to know that you now feel the love of God 
 in your heart." 
 
 "I always have his fear before me. While I now speak to 
 you of these things it is with fear. Not that I am afraid of 
 you, but I fear God." 
 
 " Yes, you fear God; but do you enjoy his love in your 
 heart ? It is that I wish to know."
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 201 
 
 "Is it that you ask? Then here it is," (laying his hand 
 upon his heart,) " I feel it here. Whence came these fruits I 
 have told you about ? They spring from the love of God. The 
 work of the Spirit is here. He makes me fear, he makes me 
 watch, he makes me pray, he guides and saves me. When 
 sin appears, and I am in danger, he makes me startle. When 
 I was fighting in the straight war, he kept me in peace ; I did 
 not fear." 
 
 " Do you think the people will fight again 1 " 
 
 " My ears sometimes hear their talk, and some of them 
 say they will, if there should be a cause. The men that believe 
 true will not fight ; but the men who have only the shadow of 
 religion, and the men who are still in the Maori state, will 
 fight if they be offended." 
 
 " Are there many who, in your judgment, have only the 
 shadow?" 
 
 " Many. Some among the Englanders, (members of the 
 Church of England,) many among the Pikopos, (Papists,) and 
 some among ourselves." 
 
 " Th religion of * Jesus teaches us to do good to others ; 
 what are you doing?" 
 
 " Three times the thought has come to my heart to 
 return to the North, that I might teach my people, as I 
 formerly did; but the Governor would not consent to my 
 going, and I have listened to the mouth of man and remain 
 here." 
 
 "I did not refer to your leaving this place, but wished 
 to know what you are doing here." 
 
 "I do some work. I carry some talk to my countrymen 
 who sit about the town. I reprove their wickedness, and 
 invite them to chapel. I preach to them, but they won't 
 regard me. They are not good to listen to me. They say 
 mine is not pakeha mouth, but only a Maori mouth, like their 
 own, and they won't attend to me." 
 
 " Be faithful to the end, and we shall meet in heaven." 
 
 " Great is this your word. I intend to be true till I die. 
 Many of my friends who began with me have gone back. They 
 
 K 5
 
 202 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 have turned aside one after another ; but I hope to be true, 
 and meet you in heaven." 
 
 " If you have any word to send to the friends in England 
 who sent the Gospel, I shall be glad to take it." 
 
 " You have spoken straight. Tell them they have saved 
 New Zealand by sending the Ministers of the Gospel. When 
 they came, we were eating one another. It was love to us that 
 made them send us Ministers; and now when men die we 
 bury them, and eat human flesh no longer. They have prayed 
 for us too. It is the power of their prayers that has made us 
 live. They are strong to pray for the dark people, and God 
 has heard their prayer for us. This is my word to you and 
 them." 
 
 9th. Having been detained by adverse winds, I preached 
 twice to-day in Auckland to overflowing congregations, and 
 if I might credit statements made, it would appear that my 
 detention was rendered a special blessing to several persons. 
 To God be all the glory! 
 
 In leaving New Zealand I could not but deeply regret that 
 a blessed and extensive work of God, the reward of many 
 labours, sufferings, and prayers, should have been marred by the 
 hand of man, which sought to mould it after the rigid and 
 uncomely image of Tractarianism. Previously to the arrival of 
 the Bishop in New Zealand, the Missionaries of the Episcopal 
 Church and those of the Wesleyan Body had laboured together 
 in harmony; and although they had prosecuted their work 
 separately, each in his own communion, and in accordance with 
 those distinctions of internal arrangement which were therein 
 to be observed, yet it had been a separation of love, and they 
 were united in object, in affection, in sympathy. God had 
 greatly honoured this Christian, oneness, in the rapid spread 
 of the Gospel, and in the recovery of multitudes of people from 
 darkness, superstition, and death. When the baptized natives 
 of the Wesleyan community removed to the district of a Church 
 Missionary, they became members of that Minister's com- 
 munion, the original claim upon their membership having 
 been resigned for the sake of the general principle of non-
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 203 
 
 interference, and so vice versd on the part of the Church brethren. 
 On the arrival of the Bishop, however, this state of things was 
 interrupted. Whilst travelling on the coast, he astonished 
 the natives, with (to them) unheard-of assertions, that the 
 Wesleyans were a " crooked branch," a " fallen people," and 
 that they had no "Scriptural Ministers/' that they were 
 " schismatics," their " ordination invalid," and their baptisms at 
 most the " acts of laymen. " One of the Bishop's Missionaries 
 rebaptized several parties previously baptized by Wesleyan 
 Missionaries, marking them with the "sign of the cross," and 
 had thereupon admitted them to partake of the Lord's Supper, 
 seeing that " now their baptism was complete." The Mission- 
 aries, in a letter to the Bishop, complained of this, but no remedy 
 was provided against its repetition, as the offending individual 
 continued the practice. Disastrous results followed. The 
 Bishop found the natives generally settled down into a state of 
 domestic peace, family feuds were ended, and parents and 
 children worshipped God together, according to their limited 
 knowledge. Perhaps one part of the family had been baptized 
 into the Episcopalian, another into the Wesleyan church. 
 The Bishop appeared amongst them, telling them that they 
 must no longer worship together, but separately; that the 
 teachers of the one party were no longer to be allowed to 
 instruct the other; that they were a distinct communion, and 
 that all the distinctions of the church were to be rigorously 
 observed. And what was the effect 1 Why the Scripture was 
 literally fulfilled, that " a man's foes shall be they of his own 
 household ;" and the fearful spectacle was seen of father and 
 son, mother and daughter, hating and opposing each other. 
 In some cases they divided themselves into separate pas; in 
 other cases into separate divisions of the same pa; and in one 
 village, at least, had the party-spirit risen so high between near 
 kinsmen that one of them had erected a fence across the 
 Kainga, and lined it thickly with fern, not as a break wind or 
 shelter, but, as he told one of our Missionaries, " that the one 
 party might not be able even to look upon the other." The 
 Bishop would doubtless disapprove of this, and every such
 
 204 THE SOUTHEBN WORLD. 
 
 thing, but it is the natural effect of an exclusive religion 
 upon an uninstructed mind. If such be the injurious ten- 
 dency of high-church principles upon the domestic and civil 
 interests of the natives, it is very evident that it will exert 
 no better influence on their religious feelings. If it be 
 injurious to them as families and as tribes, it must be equally 
 injurious to them as men and as Christians ; and so it has been 
 found. 
 
 In April, 1844, the Rev. H. H. Turton, one of our Mission- 
 aries, addressing the Bishop on the subject, said, " It is but 
 three weeks ago since I accompanied the Rev. J. Whiteley to 
 Waimati, and so intemperate were the proceedings of some of 
 your Lordship's disciples at Wareatea against that devoted and 
 successful Minister of the Saviour that an unhappy collision had 
 wellnigh taken place. Feelings of no ambiguous character 
 were perceived to arise in the breasts of a few Waikatos that 
 attended us, as they stood gazing in astonishment; and but for 
 the timely precaution of my friend, who ordered them to leave 
 the village, and proceed on their journey, there is no knowing 
 what the result might have been : and yet these were natives, 
 most of whom were recovered from slavery through the kind 
 interposition of the very man whom they were now so grossly 
 insulting, and who, but for him, would have been in slavery 
 still. They had the confidence to plead your Lordship's personal 
 instructions, as an excuse for their conduct. But of course, 
 whatever those directions may have been, they must have ex- 
 ceeded them on the present occasion. But if your Lordship 
 chooses to lay the foundation of an intolerant exclusiveness in 
 the minds of uninstructed men, you need not be surprised at 
 any excesses of conduct into which they may run; or at any 
 events, however fatal, or however distant, in which such prin- 
 ciples may terminate. Coming from a station in Waikato, 
 where all was peace and comparative prosperity and encourage- 
 ment, great indeed were my surprise and grief on my arrival 
 here, to find the people involved in party contentions as to 
 mere forms and opinions. Instead of meeting me with in- 
 quiries as to the great doctrines and blessings of the Gospel,
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 205 
 
 the time of both Ministers and people is lavishly wasted away 
 with useless discussions on matters of mere ecclesiastic arrange- 
 ment. The spirit of the Gospel has evaporated in the form, 
 and the mind perversely surrendered to the influence of foolish 
 questions and genealogies, and contentions which are unpro- 
 fitable and vain. And as to the Church party, it is lamentable 
 to behold the pride and presumption which they evince. On 
 the journey just alluded to, Mr. Whiteley was forbidden to 
 preach at Warea, the natives declaring that your Lordship had 
 so ordered it, and that they dare not transgress; and so a scene 
 was presented at once ludicrous and disgraceful, of two Mis- 
 sionaries found seated on the ground, whilst an ignorant Maori 
 lad stood up in triumph to deliver himself of a load of most egre- 
 gious nonsense. And when in the morning we called upon the 
 natives to prayers in our own sleeping-house, they forthwith 
 left the place, rang their own bell out of mere opposition, en- 
 gaged in their own worship, and left but three to listen to the 
 ' tale of the Saviour's cross.' At Wareata we were grossly 
 mocked whilst in the attitude of prayer. My Lord, I feel 
 perfectly indignant when I think of the alleged cause of this 
 conduct. Here is an old Missionary of eleven years' standing, 
 through whose moral influence and single intervention great 
 and contending tribes have more than once laid down their 
 arms, and become reconciled; through whose interposition, 
 chiefly, the Waikato wars have been ended, and Taranaki re- 
 peopled, and the European settlement of New Plymouth been 
 saved on more occasions than one from the hostile visits of the 
 exasperated Ngatimaniapoto tribe ; I say, here is that very man 
 forbidden by your Lordship's alleged directions to exercise his 
 commission in a village which owes its erection to him, and to 
 natives who, under God, even owe their present existence to him. 
 In the meantime the natives are thus debarred from all means 
 of European instruction, save what they may imperfectly derive 
 from the quarterly and half-yearly visits of Church Ministers, 
 who as yet are unable to address them in their own language; 
 so that they are rather to be held in the bondage of 
 ignorance, than permitted to hear the Gospel as delivered
 
 206 THE SOUTHEKN WOBLD. 
 
 from the lips of a Wesleyan Minister, and that too in his own 
 district"* 
 
 As it is much more agreeable to praise than to blame, I 
 mention these things with much reluctance and sorrow; and 
 should not have referred to them had the Bishop become less 
 intolerant in his views, or expressed any regret for proceedings 
 so uncharitable in their nature and disastrous in their results ; 
 but it appears, on legitimate evidence, that such reasons for 
 silence do not exist. This I record with most unaffected and 
 deep regret ; especially as in other respects there is so much in 
 his Lordship to admire. 
 
 But notwithstanding this opposition, Methodism in the land 
 is a great fact, an important reality; and that it has effected 
 extensive benefit even its enemies admit. Its influence for good 
 is much wider than its statistics would indicate. Many who 
 have heard its Missionaries, and felt the word to be the power 
 of God unto their salvation, have from various causes gone 
 through the land; and, like the disciples of the Pentecost, have 
 told of the great things the Lord has done for them. Their 
 simple word has been with power, inquiry has been excited, 
 consciences awakened, and many sinners made the partakers of 
 saving grace. By this humble instrumentality congregations 
 have been collected, family worship established, and houses of 
 prayer erected, in several parts of the country, previously to 
 their being visited by any European Missionary. Had the 
 Wesleyans availed themselves of these interesting fruits of their 
 labours, their churches numerically would have been much 
 larger; but they acted upon the principle of non-interference 
 with the operations of the Church, and left certain localities 
 to be occupied by the Missionaries of that Body, according to 
 an arrangement entered into by the parent Committees of the 
 Church and Wesleyan Missionary Societies, and thus lost many 
 people legitimately belonging to them, and abstained from 
 entering upon some populous and inviting fields of labour. The 
 Bishop having practically disregarded this arrangement of the 
 two Societies, it ought to become a serious question with the 
 Rev. H. H. Turton's letter to Dr. Selwyn.
 
 THE SOUTHERN WOBLD. 207 
 
 Wesleyan Missionary Committee whether they should not now 
 send men to localities from which they have hitherto kept 
 aloof, in support of a good principle, that they may witness for 
 spiritual religion, and endeavour to save the poor natives from 
 the direful influence of a semi-Popery. 
 
 Our Missionaries who live in the " bush" have many priva- 
 tions ; and, shut out as they are from nearly all European society, 
 they could not be otherwise than unhappy did they not feel 
 themselves in the path of duty. Nor is their life one of idle- 
 ness and ease; the impress of premature old age which many 
 a countenance exhibited greatly affected me, and told of the 
 labours and sufferings of a New Zealand bush Missionary, in a 
 manner not to be mistaken, nor yet to be forgotten. Their 
 reward is on high. 
 
 New Zealand, doubtless designed to become a populous and 
 great co'untry, consists of two lar : islands and a smaller one, 
 situated to the south-east of New South Wales. The northern 
 island is separated from the middle island by Cook's Straits; 
 and the latter from the southern island by Foveaux Straits. 
 The area of the whole being 86,000 square miles, is about 
 equal to that of England, Scotland, and Walea The climate 
 of the northern island much resembles that of England; it is, 
 however, milder, and more humid, but, on the whole, highly 
 favourable to health. The middle and southern islands are 
 somewhat colder. The country, in its natural state, is covered 
 with ferns, brushwood, and timber; but possesses much rich 
 soil, and is likely to become the granary of the Southern 
 World. It possesses copper and other minerals. 
 
 Missionaries prepared the way for British settlers, and, after 
 a colony had been for some time formed, it was proposed, at a 
 great meeting held at the Waitangi, on the 5th of February, 
 1840, that the rights and powers of sovereignty over the whole 
 of New Zealand islands should be ceded to Her Majesty the 
 Queen of. England. This proposition, so novel and startling, 
 elicited determined and violent opposition. The speeches of 
 the opposers were clever and impressive; and Her Majesty's 
 Representative began to fear for the result; when, behold,
 
 208 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 Tomati Waka stepped forward. He had been instructed, 
 gained, and baptized by the Wesleyan Missionaries; and now, 
 in a strain of natural and powerful eloquence that surprised 
 the Europeans, he subdued the opposition, and removed the 
 unfavourable intentions of the previous speakers. Addressing 
 his countrymen first, he called upon them to remember the 
 degraded position in which they had formerly been, and how 
 much their character had become exalted by their intercourse 
 with Europeans. He reminded- them that they could not 
 govern themselves without frequent wars and bloodshed; and 
 he advised them to receive the British as their rulers, and to 
 place confidence in their promises. Having thus done his 
 duty to his countrymen, the noble Chief next turned to the 
 Queen's representative, on whose gratitude he had established 
 such claims, and, appealing to him as a witness of what had 
 passed, said, " You must now be our father. You must not 
 allow us to be] enslaved. You must preserve our customs, 
 and never permit our lands to be wrested from us." The die 
 was cast. New Zealand became a portion of the British 
 Empire. Unconquered, without bloodshed, it was freely and 
 nobly ceded; a home for unborn millions, where abundance 
 reigns, where industry must always be rewarded, and where 
 health is said to prevail to a greater degree than in any known 
 part of the world. A gentleman occupying a high official 
 position, speaking of this Waitangi Act, says, " Not to the 
 Wesleyan Missionaries alone was this triumph to be attributed : 
 there were Missionaries of other denominations, especially those 
 of the Church of England Mission, in the country ; and it was 
 by the joint efforts of these Missionaries that there was 
 achieved a triumph unsurpassed in history, necessarily be- 
 longing to an advanced state of Christianity, in itself won- 
 derful, in its promises for the future full of hope, and in its 
 very nature stable, certain, and progressive." 
 
 The European population, comprised in the several settle- 
 ments of the ceded country, is about 26,000 persons, and will 
 no doubt ere long be greatly augmented. The pi'oductiveness 
 of New Zealand, and the salubrity of its climate, are becoming
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 209 
 
 more generally known and appreciated, and will attract 
 many to its shores from Australia, as well as from the mother 
 country. 
 
 Although the colonization of New Zealand has for the 
 present seriously interfered with the spiritual progress of the 
 Mission to the natives, yet amongst the colonists there are 
 many estimable men, whose influence is favourable to Mission- 
 ary operations ; that of His Excellency the Governor, Sir George 
 Grey, is especially so, and has in various ways been highly 
 beneficial. Several Europeans are worthy members of our own 
 church ; possessed of the same liberal spirit which I witnessed 
 and so much admired in Australia, and are very anxious 
 that the Mission churches in New Zealand should become self- 
 supporting, and thereby relieve the parent Society, whose kind 
 and liberal assistance they fully appreciate and gratefully 
 acknowledge. 
 
 10th. Early this morning I left my kind friends Mr. and 
 Mrs. Lawry, who had entertained me with genuine hospitality. 
 During my brief sojourn in Auckland I had met with the 
 greatest respect and kindness, and felt not a little on parting 
 with numerous friends, under a deep conviction that our next 
 meeting would be in eternity. I committed them to God, 
 went on board the "John Wesley," and sailed for the Friendly 
 Islands.
 
 210 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 CHAPTEE X, 
 
 FRIENDLY Isles Arrival in Tongatabu Visit to King George 
 Normal Institution Family worship Queen Charlotte Preparation for 
 the Sabbath Meeting of Missionaries Sabbath Class-meetings Tapa 
 beating King's visit to Australia Offers to provision the ship Visit 
 from the Queen Present from the King Visit to the seat of the late war 
 Mua Popery Extraordinary tombs God-houses School examina- 
 tion Chief Justice Mr. Adams's astronomy. 
 
 THE Friendly Islands are situated in the Pacific, between 
 18 and 23 South latitude, and 173 and 176 West longitude. 
 They consist of three groups, Tonga, Haabai, and Vavau, and 
 are about 200 in number. Many of them are mere islets, and 
 without inhabitants. Some are very low, but others are of 
 considerable height, especially Tofua, Kao, and Late. The 
 former has an active volcano, which occasionally pours forth 
 streams of lava : in the middle of the island is a large sheet of 
 water, and for a great distance round the crater the surface is 
 torn to pieces by the eruptions which have taken place. Kao 
 is a conical island, 800 or 1,000 feet above the sea : it stands 
 near Tofua, a little to the north. Tradition says it was thrown 
 out 'by the gods from the middle of Tofua, where the sheet of 
 water now is. There are few inhabitants and but little food 
 on these two islands. 
 
 The climate of the Friendly Islands is humid, and the heat 
 rather oppressive, rising to 93 in the shade. Hurricanes are 
 frequent, scarcely a season passing without some occurrence of 
 the kind. The months of February and March are those in 
 which they occur; but they have also taken place in November 
 and December. 
 
 These islands are remarkable for their fertility, and the 
 variety of their vegetable productions. They abound in those 
 fruits indigenous to the tropics, as the cocoa-nut, the bread- 
 fruit, the banana, the pine-apple, the orange, the citron, the
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 211 
 
 lime, the custard-apple, &c. : melons and pumpkins are very 
 plentiful and of excellent quality. The bays and shores all 
 teem with various kinds offish. 
 
 The most southern group of these islands was discovered by 
 Tasman, in 1643. Subsequently they were visited by Captain 
 Cook, and designated by him, in evidence of the kind reception 
 he met with, the Friendly Islands. Various estimates have 
 been formed of their population, some being as high as 
 50,000, others as low as 20,000; but from several inquiries 
 made in the country, I am led to think it is somewhere about 
 30,000. 
 
 In 1797 Missionaries from the London Missionary Society 
 were sent to the Friendly Islands; but some of them were 
 murdered, others left the country, and the Mission was aban- 
 doned. In 1822 a Wesleyan Mission was begun in Tonga by 
 the Rev. W. La wry; but the next year, before witnessing any 
 visible good, family affliction necessitated him to return to New 
 South Wales. The Mission was resumed, in 1826, by the Rev. 
 John Thomas and others; and the following year that gracious 
 work began which has resulted in bringing the whole popula- 
 tion, with the exception of a few in Tonga, more or less under 
 the influence of Christianity. 
 
 October 2lst. After a passage of eleven days from Auckland, 
 we arrived in Tongatabu. Cross seas, adverse winds, and the 
 very lively character of the "John Wesley," rendered the 
 voyage very uncomfortable. On approaching Nukualofa, the 
 morning being beautifully fine, I distinctly counted from the deck 
 of the vessel twenty verdant islands of various sizes, studding 
 the bosom of the now placid deep, and presenting a scene of 
 loveliness seldom equalled, and probably of its kind never sur- 
 passed. No sooner did we drop anchor than several women 
 and children appeared on the beach. Mr. N. Turner, who 
 had twenty-two years previously been a Missionary in Tonga, 
 accompanied me on shore; and, being at once recognised, the 
 people surrounded him, and gave novel but ardent expressions 
 of pleasurable feeling. The news rapidly spread, and our 
 retinue of half-nude men, women, and children, increased at
 
 212 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 every step as we passed through the town on our way to the 
 Mission-House. Many of the children and young people 
 appeared with the upper part of the head shaven, which gave 
 them a very singular appearance, making them look like 
 miniature old men. On inquiry I was told that this peculiar 
 custom originated not only in a wish to strengthen the hair, 
 but in the belief that a large quantity of it on the upper part 
 of the head retarded the growth of the person. On arriving at 
 the Mission-House, a structure of posts, reeds, mats, and native 
 cloth, we met with a hearty reception from Mr. and Mrs. 
 Adams and Mr. and Mrs. Amos, and were plentifully regaled 
 with bananas, cocoa-nut milk, and other dainties of tropical 
 growth. Having rested for a while, we went at once to pay our 
 respects to the King. We found him attired in the native 
 costume, occupying a mat on the floor ; but, on my being intro- 
 duced to him by Mr. Adams, he rose, shook me heartily by 
 the hand, and having in the most gentlemanly manner offered 
 me a chair, he resumed his squatting position. He is a fine 
 manly person, possessing powerful muscle, and exhibiting an 
 intelligent, thoughtful, and benevolent countenance. His smile 
 is fascinating, and his whole bearing that of dignified meek- 
 ness. I presented him with several kinds of seeds entrusted to 
 me by Sir Everard Home. The young Prince, a most interest- 
 ing boy of nine years of age, was also introduced; but the 
 Queen being engaged could not be seen. We looked through 
 the King's establishment ; and although he possesses not 
 European grandeur, riches, or equipage, he has that which is 
 much more satisfactory, the hearts of a grateful people, and 
 the heirship of a kingdom which shall never end. After 
 examining the scattered town, embowered in groves of cocoa- 
 nut, banana, and bread-fruit tr^es, and meeting with many 
 warm congratulations, we returned to the Mission-House to 
 dine. The party consisted of the two Mission families, Miss 
 Fletcher, Mr. Turner, and myself, and the establishment could 
 furnish but one small spoon on the occasion. Mrs. Amos said 
 that in the morning they had several more, but the servants 
 being so determined to rub them bright, and make them shine,
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 213 
 
 as a compliment to the visitors, had overdone the thing, and 
 broken them all but one, and that was greatly injured. After 
 dinner we walked through the ground of the Training Institu- 
 tion. It contains several acres, tastefully laid out, and well 
 cultivated by the pupils. The centre walk, 500 yards in 
 length, is beautifully fringed on either side with pine-apples. 
 The plantain, yam, cocoa-nut, sugar-cane, banana, bread-fruit, 
 kumera, cotton tree, and other tropical plants, all flourish here. 
 The produce of the cocoa-nut tree astonished me. I counted 
 the nuts upon a few trees, and found the average number 
 more than 150; and, according to a moderate calculation, each 
 tree would supply twenty gallons of most refreshing and 
 nutritious drink. What a kind provision in a sultry climate ! 
 
 In the early part of the evening, a sound of distant music 
 came floating on the breeze, and when told it was the incense 
 of praise arising from many a domestic altar, it became in- 
 creasingly interesting and delightful, filling my heart with 
 grateful feeling. 
 
 22d. Early this morning I walked to the chapel, which 
 stands upon the only elevated ground in the town, and com- 
 mands a fine view of the harbour. By order of the King, some 
 scores of men, women, and children, were engaged in cleaning 
 the chapel, cutting the grass on the premises, and making the 
 establishment look as well as possible, that the Deputation 
 might see it to the best advantage. The men were somewhat 
 reserved in their manners; but the women came round me 
 with smiling faces, and heartily shook my hand. Some of the 
 children also attempted to follow their example, walking as 
 near to me as they thought consistent with safety ; then by a 
 vigorous stride and outstretched arm ventured to take hold of 
 my hand, which being done, they bounded away like antelopes, 
 and seemed to think a great thing had been accomplished. In 
 the course of the day the King sent six men with a present of 
 several bunches of splendid bananas, and a basket of delicious 
 fish. Shortly afterwards I had a visit from himself. It appeared 
 that he had expressed a wish to visit Sydney, and was intend- 
 ing to go in a man-of-war; but the Missionaries, fearing that
 
 214 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 influences unfriendly to his spirituality might possibly act upon 
 him in such a vessel, were more than delighted when I offered 
 him a passage in the "John Wesley." In doing so I felt 
 assured that I was but giving expression to the high sense the 
 Missionary Committee entertain of his character and efficiency 
 as a Christian King, and devoted Wesleyan Methodist. He 
 accepted the offer, and promised to be ready in time for sail- 
 ing. Having stated, that if he required any linen I had a 
 good supply of my own, which I should be most happy to place 
 at his service, he modestly replied that he had enough, and 
 indeed everthing necessary for the voyage, save trousers ; that 
 he possessed but one pair, and those unhappily were at Haabai ! 
 Here was a predicament, the King's person at Tonga, and his 
 only pair of trousers 90 miles distant ! After a good deal of 
 pleasantry, an arrangement was made to meet the emergency. 
 Towards the evening I paid my respects to the Queen, and 
 found her in the native costume, sitting on the matted floor. 
 She rose and received me with much dignity ; and although 
 exceedingly corpulent, she is decidedly a handsome woman, 
 and when in the bloom of youth must have been particularly 
 so. I walked through the different parts of the town, and 
 found the inhabitants preparing for the Sabbath, that the day 
 of the Lord might be kept holy. I saw several female hair- 
 dressers at work, practising their art with much taste. In the 
 morning I had seen the heads of most of the people covered 
 with lime, giving to them a most extraordinary appearance; but 
 now the lime had been washed off, and the hair well oiled. The 
 process is intended to render the hair stiff, so as to stand erect. 
 This is the fashion of both sexes; and when the hair is properly 
 trimmed, it looks most beautiful, not to say graceful, and shows 
 the well-developed forehead of these people to great advantage. 
 I met the Missionaries, and conversed with them freely on 
 the state and prospects of the Mission ; made some arrange- 
 ments to lessen the expenses of the District; and, after a 
 lengthy conversation on the subject of connecting these Missions 
 with the Australian Conference, resolutions approving of the 
 proposition were unanimously adopted.
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 215 
 
 The Rev. Messrs. P. Turner and Wilson, after many years of 
 successful labour, had been obliged on the ground of ill health 
 to leave these islands some months ago; the health of the Rev. 
 G. H. Miller now required an immediate change, and unless 
 a decided alteration takes place for the better in the health of 
 Mr. Adams, he too will be compelled to remove to a more con- 
 genial climate, or be cut down in the midst of his days. 
 Indeed, had there been any available means of supplying his 
 place, he ought at once to have been removed to Australia. 
 
 23d Sabbath in Tongatabu. At half-past 5 o'clock A. M. 
 the bell of the chapel summoned the inhabitants to worship. 
 It was a meeting for prayer, and attended by about 300 per- 
 sons. The King and Queen were present, and both engaged in 
 prayer. The former took a review of God's mercies to them 
 as a people, contrasting their present with their former condi- 
 tion, noticing the arrival of Missionaries, together with the 
 book of God in their own tongue; and describing in grateful 
 language, and with much hallowed feeling, the happy results 
 they had realized. He then referred to my arrival, and spoke 
 of it as a farther evidence of the love of God, and of the 
 great kindness of Christians in England to him and his people. 
 The " John Wesley" having brought several cases of the New 
 Testament, he also alluded to that as a very great boon bestowed 
 upon them : and when he thanked God that the cases had 
 arrived, were in the bay, and would soon be landed, there was 
 from every part of the chapel a burst of joyous feeling. The 
 Scriptures are so valued in these islands that a sovereign would 
 not have purchased a copy of the New Testament before our 
 arrival. Many possessed the holy treasure, but esteemed it 
 more precious than gold, yea, than much fine gold, and would 
 on no account part with it. The Queen in her prayer also gave 
 thanks for the arrival of the Scriptures, and said the book was 
 valuable, not because of its paper and ink, but because it 
 brought good-tidings to sinners, and from Genesis to Revelation 
 was full of the Saviour. And when she, in a tremulous but 
 earnest and melodious voice, thanked God for his book, the 
 response from every part of the chapel told that she had
 
 216 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 touched a tender chord, and elicited the grateful feelings of 
 many a heart. Another female in her prayer praised the Lord 
 that I had come amongst them, and prayed that my visit to 
 Tonga might be as the visit of Barnabas to Antioch, that I 
 might see the grace of God and be glad, and exhort them with 
 purpose of heart to cleave unto the Lord. Several other per- 
 sons exercised their gifts; and although I understood little of 
 what was said, yet I felt that the people had power with God, 
 and that his presence and glory filled the house. 
 
 At 8 o'clock the Sunday-school began, and the children were 
 examined in the Conference Catechism. The result was highly 
 satisfactory. At 9 o'clock the chapel bell was again heard, and 
 in every part of the town the beating of the native drum 
 announced that the hour had come for beginning the public 
 worship of God. The people repaired with ready steps to their 
 beloved Mount Zion ; and as they went up to worship the Lord 
 the joy which sparkled in their eyes and beamed from their 
 countenances seemed to say, " Lord, we have loved the habita- 
 tion of thy house, and the place where thine honour dwelleth." 
 The chapel, which is without benches, and will accommodate 
 on its matted floor six or seven hundred persons, was much 
 crowded. Many also were outside, seated upon the grass. 
 Mr. Amos began the service. The singing was good, and when 
 an abridgment of the Liturgy was read, the responses from 
 every part of the sanctuary indicated deep and reverential 
 feeling. I preached, Mr. Amos acting as interpreter ; and the 
 people listened with great attention, whilst I set before them 
 the glorious Redeemer and his claims upon their affections and 
 services. It was a novel method to me of communicating 
 Gospel truth; but I submitted to the inconvenience rather 
 than not enjoy the pleasure of preaching unto them Jesus. 
 After the sermon, several, amongst whom were the King and 
 Queen, engaged in prayer for God's blessing upon the word. When 
 the King prayed, many a tear was shed, and many a burst of 
 praise was heard. The Queen, in her petition, alluded to the 
 angelic anthem sung on the plains of Bethlehem ; exclaiming, 
 " It is true ! 'Glory to God in the highest, and on earth peace,
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 217 
 
 good-will toward men.' This glory we now see; this peace and 
 good- will we now feel" And, on referring to myself, she thanked 
 God for my visit, not merely that they had seen my face, and 
 heard my voice, but that I had preached unto them the glorious 
 Redeemer; then, overcome with emotion, she sobbed aloud, and 
 many a heart was moved, and many a sigh went up to heaven. 
 
 what a service ! May I never lose its holy savour ! 
 
 The chapel is without windows, but it has nine doors. They 
 are, however, so low that when the people stand up to sing, the 
 light is greatly obscured, and would be more so did it not 
 penetrate between the reeds which form the sides of the building. 
 The King having ordered the people to clothe well to-day, in 
 honour of the Deputation, and to render themselves more 
 agreeable to the European taste, grotesque figures were 
 greatly multiplied, which, under other circumstances, must have 
 made a large demand upon my risible powers. Some men had 
 dressed the upper part of their persons in the European 
 costume, but the lower part in that of the Tongese. On the 
 former, there was the white shirt, neat waistcoat, and even 
 dress-coat ; on the latter, there was a roll of native cloth, so 
 folded as to leave the feet and legs in their normal state. 
 Some of the females wore two dresses; others were attired in 
 shawls of flaming colours; whilst a few were habited accord- 
 ing to the English fashion, with the exception of their feet, 
 and looked exceedingly well, amongst whom was Queen 
 Charlotte. She wore a modest-looking silk dress, and a very 
 neat Tuscan bonnet. 
 
 At 2 o'clock the Sunday-school re-assembled in the chapel. 
 
 1 counted thirteen classes, all squatted on the floor, each one 
 forming a ring; and amongst the teachers was the Queen, who 
 takes deep interest in the welfare of the rising generation, and, 
 indeed, in everything calculated to extend and consolidate the 
 work of God in these beautiful islands. At 3 o'clock the 
 public worship commenced, and the tribes again appeared before 
 the Lord. Some of them, feeling the inconvenience of European 
 clothes, had left much of their finery behind them. I perceived 
 one man go behind a cocoa-nut tree, and put on his shirt 
 
 L
 
 218 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 previously to his appearing in the great congregation. Mr. 
 Turner officiated; and whilst he referred to former times, 
 describing the difficulties he had experienced in commencing 
 the Mission amongst them, and then contrasting that state of 
 things with the scene of moral glory which now appeared before 
 him, very powerful emotion was excited, and both preacher and 
 people seemed as if they would have departed in a chariot of 
 fire. I envy not the feelings of that man who could, in such 
 circumstances of interest, remain stoical. After the usual 
 service a prayer-meeting was held, and many fervent suppli- 
 cations were presented to God. The Queeu again prayed; and, 
 in referring to Mr. Turner, she said, he redeemed, at much 
 labour, a little garden from the entangled forest ; but since 
 that period, by the blessing of God upon the labours of the 
 Missionaries and the King, the thicket had been cut down, and 
 now nearly the whole land was as the garden of the Lord. On 
 returning from the chapel, the principal rebel Chief during 
 the late war was introduced to me. The clemency of the King 
 had broken his heart, and had destroyed the enemy, without 
 slaying the man. The triumph of Christian love and forgive- 
 ness during the recent conflict in Tonga seems utterly to have 
 confounded both Paganism and Popery, and brought much 
 glory to God. 
 
 Thus ended the public services of my first Sabbath in the 
 Friendly Islands, a day of light, and power, and glory, which 
 can never be forgotten in time or in eternity. If these islanders 
 be in many things behind the polished nations of Europe, they 
 are much before them all in their high reverence of the Lord's- 
 day. In no part of the world have I ever seen the claims of 
 the Sabbath so fully and so universally regarded as they are 
 in this land. 
 
 21th. This morning, at 5 o'clock, most of the classes met, 
 and the voice of prayer and praise ascended to heaven from 
 many a native dwelling. The remainder of the classes were 
 to meet in the afternoon. About G o'clock, the beating of the 
 tapa commenced in every part of the town. I was anxious to 
 see the manufacture of native cloth, and after breakfast Mr.
 
 THE SOUTHEEN WORLD. 219 
 
 Amos kindly took me to one of the places where the process 
 was going on; and the women, evidently much gratified in 
 having their work thus noticed, applied themselves to it with 
 so much energy that my head suffered not a little incon- 
 venience. The fabrication of the gnatoo, or native cloth, is 
 the chief employment of the women. Its substance is some- 
 what similar to cotton, but not woven, being rather of the 
 texture of paper. It is prepared from the inner bark of 
 the Chinese paper mulberry tree, and is used for dress and 
 other purposes. A circular incision being made round the 
 tree, near the root, deep enough to pierce through the bark, the 
 tree is broken off at that part, which its slenderness readily 
 admits of. When a number of trees are thus laid on the 
 ground, they are left in the sun a couple of days to become' 
 partially dry, so that the inner and outer bark may be stripped 
 off together, without danger of leaving any of the fibres behind. 
 The bark is then soaked in water fora day and a night, and 
 scraped carefully for the purpose of removing the outer bark, 
 which is thrown away. The inner bark is next rolled up 
 lengthwise, and soaked in water for another day; it now swells, 
 and becomes tougher and more capable of being beaten into a 
 fine texture : being thus far prepared, the operation of tutu, or 
 beating, commences. This part of the work is performed by 
 means of a mallet, 1 foot long and 2 inches thick, three sides 
 being grooved longitudinally, with the interval of a quarter of 
 an inch. The bark, which is from 2 to 5 feet long and 1 to 
 3 inches broad, is then laid upon a beam of wood about G feet 
 long and 9 inches in breadth and thickness, which is supported 
 about an inch from the ground by pieces of wood at each end, 
 so as to allow of a certain degree of vibration. Two or three 
 women generally sit at the same beam; each places her bark 
 transversely upon the beam immediately before her, and while 
 she beats with her right hand, with her left she moves it 
 slowly to and fro, so that every part becomes beaten alike : 
 the grooved side of the mallet is generally used first, and thu 
 smooth side afterwards. The women beat alternately. Early 
 in the morning, when the air is calm and still, the beating of 
 
 L 2
 
 220 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 the tapa at all the plantations around has a very pleasing 
 effect; some sounds being near at hand, and others almost 
 lost by the distance; some a little more acute, others more 
 grave, and all with remarkable regularity, produce a musical 
 variety that is very agreeable, and not a little heightened by 
 the singing of birds and the cheerful influence of the scene. 
 When one hand is fatigued, the mallet is dexterously trans- 
 ferred to the other, without occasioning the smallest sensible 
 delay. In the course of about half-an-hour it is brought to a 
 sufficient degree of thinness, being so much spread laterally as 
 to be now nearly square when folded ; for it is doubled several 
 times during the process, by which means it spreads more 
 equally, and is prevented from breaking. The bark thus far 
 prepared is called fetaaki, and is put aside until they have a 
 sufficient quantity to go on at a future time with the second 
 part of the operation, which is called kokaaga, or printing with 
 koka. When this is to be done, a number employ themselves 
 in gathering the berries off the toe, the pulp of which serves 
 for paste; but the mucilaginous substance of the mahoa or 
 arrowroot is sometimes substituted for it : at the same time 
 others are busy scraping off the soft bark of the koka tree, 
 which yields a reddish brown juice to be used as a dye. The 
 kobe-chi, or stamp, is formed of the dried leaves of the paoongo 
 sewed together, so as to be of sufficient size; and afterwards 
 embroidered, according to various devices, with the wiry fibre 
 of the cocoa-nut husk. It is generally about 2 feet long and 
 1 foot and a half broad, and is tied to the convex side of the 
 half-cylinder of the wood used, which is about 6 or 8 feet 
 long, to admit two or three similar operations to go on at the 
 same time. The stamp being thus fixed, with the embroidered 
 side uppermost, a piece of the prepared bark is laid on it, and 
 smeared over with a folded piece of the gnatoo dipped in the 
 reddish brown liquid before mentioned; so that the whole 
 surface of the bark becomes stained, but particularly those 
 parts raised by the design on the stamp. Another piece of 
 loufetaaki is now laid on it, but not quite so broad, which 
 adheres by virtue of the mucilaginous quality in the dye, and
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 221 
 
 this in like manner is smeared over : then a third, in the same 
 way, and the substance is now three layers in thickness. 
 Others are then added, to increase its length and breadth, by 
 pasting the edges of these over the first, but so that there 
 shall not be in any place more than three folds, which is 
 easily managed, as the margin of one layer falls short of the 
 margin of the one under it. During the whole process each 
 layer is stamped separately, so that the pattern may be said to 
 exist in the very substance of the gnatoo; and when one 
 portion is thus printed to the size of the kobe-chi, the material 
 being moved farther on, the next portion either in length or 
 breadth becomes stamped, the pattern being close to where the 
 other ended. Thus they go on printing and enlarging it to 
 about 12 or 14 feet in breadth, and generally about 40 or 50 
 yards in length. Then commences the finishing operation of 
 toogihea, or staining it in certain places with the juice of hea, 
 which constitutes a brilliant red varnish. This is done in straight 
 lines along those places where the edges of the printed portions 
 join each other, and serves to conceal the little irregularities 
 there : also in sundry other places in the form of round spots, 
 about t\vo inches and a quarter in diameter. It is then care- 
 fully folded up, and baked under ground, which causes the dye 
 to become somewhat darker, and more firmly fixed in the fibre ; 
 besides which it deprives it of a peculiar smoky smell which 
 belongs to the koka. When it has been thus exposed to heat 
 for a few hours, it is spread out on a grass-plot, or on the sand 
 of the sea-shore. Afterwards the gnatoo is exposed one night 
 to the dew; and the next day being dried in the sun, it is 
 packed up in bales to be used when required. The unstained 
 part of the cloth is called tapa. The whole of these operations 
 are performed by women.* The cloth thus made is worn by 
 the natives, but its texture is so fragile that a new dress is 
 generally necessary every week. 
 
 After having examined the process of gnatoo-making, I 
 called upon the King, and had some conversation with him 
 about his voyage. He said he wished to provision the " John 
 * " Mariner's Tonga Islands."
 
 222 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 Wesley" during the period he might be on board; and when I 
 assured him that no remuneration for his passage was expected, 
 and that the Missionary Committee would be delighted to 
 know that he had been gratuitously accommodated, he 
 pleasantly replied, that I was now in a strange land, and must 
 be kind enough to abide by the will of its King. Of course I 
 at once submitted. He went on board with me, saw his 
 cabin, and appeared well pleased with the reception he met 
 with, and the arrangements made for his comfort. 
 
 At 5 o'clock there was a prayer-meeting in the chapel, 
 which was well attended; and the earnestness of the people 
 in their petitions was truly gratifying. The King and Queen, 
 as usual, were there, and both engaged in prayer; the 
 Missionaries told me that the sermons of yesterday, in every 
 case, furnished matter for supplication, thanksgiving, and 
 intercession ; and what one omitted, another took up; and that 
 every principal part of the sermons was brought out in prayer, 
 clearly showing that they had fully understood and appreciated 
 the word dispensed. 
 
 25th. This morning the Queen paid us a visit, bringing a 
 present from the King. My portion of it consisted of a 
 quantity of tortoise-shell, and a large bale of native cloth, more 
 than I could lift. The King had apprized me of it, and said 
 the present was not for the Society, ^but for myself; that it 
 was not tribute, but his own private property; and he wished 
 me to receive it in evidence that he and I were now friends, 
 and that we should ever hereafter remain so. 
 
 After an early dinner, Messrs. Turner, Adams, and Amos 
 started with me for Mua, a distance of 1 2 miles. We were all 
 mounted. The King kindly furnished me with his blood- 
 mare, for which an extortioner had charged four tons of oil. 
 We commenced our journey in good spirits, amidst the mirth 
 of many persons. The country through which we rode was 
 perfectly level, and teeming with vegetation. We passed 
 through many plantations of yams and bananas. Part of the 
 road on either side was lined with cocoa-nut trees, intended 
 both as a shade and as food for travellers. Other parts of the
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 223 
 
 road were so entangled by various withes and vines that I 
 was more than once very forcibly reminded of Absalom's fate. 
 I saw several fine specimens of sugar-cane, and of cotton, and 
 here and there the coffee plant in great luxuriance. Much of 
 the land was uncultivated, but only waiting the labour of the 
 husbandman to render it amazingly productive. The soil I 
 found exceedingly rich, and it being equally so throughout the 
 island, ten times the present population might be amply pro- 
 vided for. 
 
 On reaching Bea, we examined the fort, or stockade, so 
 recently the place of conflict, and where King George had 
 so successfully mitigated the miseries of civil war by the 
 clemency of Christianity. The heathen, instigated by the 
 emissaries of Rome, had refused submission to the King's 
 authority, and had committed various atrocities. After long 
 forbearance, he was at length necessitated to take up arms in 
 the defence of the laws and liberties of his country. But he 
 went forth as the disciple of Him who came not into the 
 world to destroy men's lives, but to save them ; and by 
 conduct previously unknown in military tactics, he des- 
 troyed his enemies without slaying them, and transformed 
 them into admiring and ardent friends. We halted under the 
 shade of a large tree, where King George had sat to receive 
 the submission of his rebel subjects; and where, according to the 
 custom of the country, they came to rub their noses against the 
 soles of his feet, in token of surrender. They approached with 
 fear and trembling, knowing that they had forfeited their lives 
 to the laws of the land, but as they came, George magnani- 
 mously said, " Live!" In a transport of joy and wonder they 
 thanked the King for his clemency, when he told them to 
 thank Jehovah, whose lotu had influenced him to spare their 
 lives. As he regularly observed in his camp the hours of 
 morning and evening prayer, these subdued Chiefs, whose 
 " hearts" (as one of them told me) " the King had slain," 
 requested permission to unite in God's worship; and, for the 
 first time, were they to be seen bowing the knee to Jesus. 
 The King returned from the field, not with garments rolled in
 
 224 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 blood, but richly laden with the blessings of them that had 
 been ready to perish, and rejoicing more in the triumphs of 
 grace which God had enabled him to achieve than in the con- 
 quests gained over his enemies. Long will this shady place 
 be remembered with gratitude as that where hearts were 
 conquered by love, and foes overcome by something more 
 potent than powder and ball. 
 
 " During the war," says Mr. Amos, " the young people were 
 rather wild, and the effect was dissipating. But our members 
 generally maintained their religion, though some fell away. 
 The local-preachers showed themselves faithful servants, and 
 it was delightful to go up to the camp, and preach to these 
 God-fearing men amid their privations and perils at the seat 
 of war. First and foremost of all those Christian warriors was 
 the King. His conduct throughout was unimpeachable." The 
 result of the victory gained I was happy to find had been 
 highly gratifying. The land was now at peace ; the country 
 open to man, woman, and child ; the Gospel preached without 
 let or hindrance in all the villages ; and the people generally 
 had received the lot u. Tubouleva, Maqfu, Vaea, and other 
 Chiefs, were now, thank God, meeting in a Christian class. The 
 King's forgiving the rebels had heaped coals of fire upon their 
 heads in the Scriptural sense ; and it is hoped that some of 
 them have repented in dust and ashes, and found peace with 
 God. 
 
 The interview between the King and the Commander of a 
 French frigate, which took place immediately after the war, 
 was very interesting. The vessel was from Tahiti, and came at 
 the instigation of the Popish Missionaries. The Priest Calignon 
 informed the Captain that he would be attacked if he came 
 near Tongatabu ; so all the way down, according to the testimony 
 of one on board, the brave "weewees" as the natives called 
 them, practised drill, and were ordered to prepare for battle. 
 When they neared the land, they saw a large number of 
 persons fishing on the reefs, and the Priest suggested that it 
 was a party preparing to attack the vessel. Captain Belland 
 at once shotted his guns, drove full sail into the harbour,
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 225 
 
 dropped several anchors, to which they moored " La Moselle," 
 and there they waited all night without any communication 
 with the shore. " Next day," says Mr. Amos, " we went on 
 board, but the ' Jack Priest ' would not face us, nor have I 
 seen him since the war. We gave Captain Belland all the 
 information we could. He visited the King, when he ap- 
 pointed the following Tuesday for an investigation of the 
 complaint made against King George by the ' Gustave,' and 
 the Priest. The Priests were at the bottom of that complaint. 
 It was thus : the surgeon of the 'Gustave' had nearly been 
 frightened to death by some warriors, who drove him from 
 the reefs at the back of the island, where he was selling 
 cutlasses and powder. The vessel came round here, and I 
 went on board; the doctor pulled a long face, and, shrugging 
 his shoulders a-la-mode Frangaise, he said, in his broken 
 English, ' Is bat people : de front is bat prospect : ' meaning 
 that their faces wore a bad aspect, which poor little Esculapius 
 changed in his agitation to ' prospect.' In vain did I tell him 
 they would do him no harm, if he sold no cutlasses and 
 powder. At another time I went on board, and the 'Captain 
 told me on that occasion that the doctor was gone to Bea, with 
 the Priest, having sat up all night previously on board, 'talking 
 politics.' That same little gentleman did the Priest's business 
 at Tahiti, and sent the man-of-war down to the islands. 
 
 " Nothing surprised the French Commander more than the 
 copies of all letters on the subjects relative to the war which 
 King George had kept in a tin box. The King, too, gave him 
 so succinct an account, and displayed so much coolness, that 
 Captain Belland passed a very high eulogium upon him, and 
 twice invited him on board to dine. Captain Belland behaved 
 impartially." 
 
 Much odium had been incurred by the Priests. Their own 
 followers bitterly upbraided them that they did not bring a 
 man-of-war, according to promise, that the King might be put 
 down; and our_ people ridiculed them for raising false hopes, 
 and abhorred them for distributing powder and ball to their 
 enemies, and afterwards denying it with a bold front. Popery 
 
 L5
 
 226 THE SOUTHERN WOULD. 
 
 I found now in the background; and although tolerated more 
 than before, it was doing less than ever. 
 
 In one of the King's forts we have a chapel, and on riding 
 up to it I perceived that it was the hour of worship, and a 
 local-preacher was addressing a good congregation. About 
 six miles farther on we passed the largest tree in Tonga. Its 
 dimensions are prodigious, but its exact size could not be 
 ascertained. On reaching Mua we were kindly received and 
 hospitably entertained by Mr. and Mrs. Davies, who have a 
 lovely place of residence overlooking the bay commanding 
 a fine prospect, and who are deservedly beloved. 
 
 26th. Early this morning I walked through the town or 
 village, which is thickly interspersed with various trees of 
 beautiful and luxuriant foliage. I visited the school, conducted 
 by a native teacher who was trained in the Normal Institution 
 at Nukualofa, and examined the chapel, a well-finished native 
 building, capable of accommodating 600 persons. 
 
 Here Popery has obtained a footing, and secured the Tui- 
 Tonga as its disciple. I met a boy with a medal suspended 
 from his neck, bearing the alleged likeness of the Virgin Mary, 
 and, on asking him to whom he prayed, he replied that he 
 prayed to the Virgin Mary. One Missionary stated that the 
 Romish converts were much more offensive in their behaviour 
 than those remaining in their pagan state, and showed no little 
 bitterness to Protestants. Apt disciples ! 
 
 After breakfast we passed beneath the shade of a large tree, 
 Avhere the last human victim in these islands, about sixteen 
 years previously, had been sacrificed to appease one of their 
 pagan gods. About half a mile from that tree we were shown 
 the entrance to Hades, where a distinguished god was said to 
 enter. From the hollow sound we heard on stamping with 
 our feet, it was evident that there was a cavern beneath. A 
 little farther on, in the same direction, we visited several tombs 
 of the Tonga Kings. Each one is on a large mound 50 yards 
 square, terraced by well-squared stones of immense size. We 
 measured one stone, and its dimensions were 23 feet long, 7 
 feet wide, and 8 feet deep. Some boys accompanying us took
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 227 
 
 up a few pebbles near one of them, and presented them to us 
 as the "children of the stone," one of which I took to place 
 amongst my curiosities. Where these huge stones came from, 
 and how they were placed there, are questions involving great 
 mystery. The son of the Tui-Tonga, who attended us, said the 
 tradition was, that the large stone we measured had been brought 
 from Wallis's Island, and others from the opposite side of Tonga, 
 by vessels much larger than the canoes of the present day; and 
 that at that period the inhabitants were much more numerous 
 and powerful than they are now, the whole country being full. 
 
 On returning from these mysterious sepulchres I was shown 
 the remains of a " god-house." Houses of this character were 
 always made out of the bread-fruit tree, and built with great 
 neatness. There were scores of these houses in the Tonga Isles, 
 and every Chief of any note had one. It was sacrilegious for 
 any person to go within the enclosure, and death for any one, 
 except the Priest, to touch the god. Once a year the idol was 
 dressed by the Priest, and the best mats were used for the 
 purpose. At such times an abundance of kava and food were 
 prepared, and one of these gods called Eikitubu would not have 
 his kava presented unless he had 100 pigs killed. The shrine 
 of this god was a whale's tooth, and worshipped by the Tui-Tonga 
 and principal Chiefs only. It was the work of the Priests to 
 present offerings, and to make known the mind of the god to 
 the people. To these gods they applied in time of war, famine, 
 drought, hurricane, taking a voyage, sickness, &c. ; and when 
 yams, &c., were planted, a prayer was offered to them. They 
 invariably received the offerings of the first-fruits of the lands ; 
 frequently the sacrifice of the little fingers of devotees, and 
 occasionally that of human beings. The Tongese believed that 
 they possessed the power of life and death; they were 
 therefore feared by all, but loved by none. The first cup 
 of kava prepared at the kava-party was always poured out as 
 a libation to the god. 
 
 When the Tui-Tonga embraced Popery, his son, who 
 attended us, and who is not only a very influential Chief, but 
 a local-preacher in our church, told one of our Missionaries
 
 228 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 that he knew his father had from worldly policy embraced 
 Popery, and was so much grieved at his folly, that he set fire 
 to his god-house, being determined that his father should not 
 have both his heathen and popish gods, as he intended to have. 
 The house was burned down, but the god to which a hundred 
 pigs were wont to be sacrificed was rescued, after being well 
 singed; and that very idol, still bearing marks of fire, was 
 kindly given to me by a friend, and shall never again receive 
 an offering. 
 
 On returning to the Mission-House, several persons called to 
 pay their respects ; and I was more than satisfied with the 
 clearness with which many of them gave an account of the 
 work of grace upon their hearts. A distinguished lady, 
 mentioned by Mr. Lawry as recently married, also called; and 
 during our interview she very busily employed her fingers in 
 the work of cleaning her toes; but nevertheless in other 
 respects she was a very agreeable and interesting person. 
 
 We left in the afternoon, and I suppose all the boys of the 
 place accompanied us some miles. They had but a scanty 
 supply of native cloth around the loins, and that, in many 
 cases being tattered, streamed in the wind as they scampered 
 over the ground. They were full of fun, making numerous 
 somersets ; so that, altogether, our retinue was the most 
 grotesque that can well be imagined, and calculated to relax 
 the muscles of the most rigid countenance. After a most 
 romantic ride, and drinking largely of cocoa-nut milk by the 
 Way, we reached Nukualofa about 5 o'clock. 
 
 27th. The schools in Nukualofa were examined, and a scene 
 of interest presented which cannot be adequately described. 
 At 8 o'clock the examination commenced, and continued 
 without intermission for nearly eight hours. The students of 
 the Normal Training Institution were first brought forward, 
 fourteen in number, three of whom were females, comprising 
 the Queen, the wife of the Chief Justice, and a hair- dresser, 
 who said to Mr. Amos, in the true Oriental style, that her house 
 was carpeted with the hair of Chiefs, a most extraordinary 
 woman, a poetess, the Mrs. Hemans of Tonga. The Queen
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 229 
 
 submits to the rules of the Institution, and toils, as a student, 
 that she may keep pace with others, as she says it will never 
 do for any native of the country to know more than the Queen. 
 They were examined in reading, spelling, and Arithmetic as far 
 as reduction, acquitting themselves well, and indeed making 
 but one mistake. Their answers to questions on Scripture 
 History were prompt and correct. Their attempt to read 
 English was encouraging; but in translating. English into 
 Tongese they were not so successful. They all appeared in 
 the European costume, and looked remarkably well. Three of 
 the students, men of considerable promise, were being trained 
 with a view of their entering the Ministry, and the other male 
 students to prepare them for taking charge of village schools. 
 No sooner did the examination of the students terminate, 
 than an adult school marched up to the chapel, singing an 
 appropriate chant. One party sung, 
 
 "We thank thee, Jesus, thou art come." 
 
 Another party responded in melodious strains, and with fervent 
 hearts, 
 
 "We will believe on thee." 
 
 This was the King's school, being under his special patronage, 
 and consisting of 99 fine athletic fellows, all dressed according 
 to Tongese custom. The pupils read a chapter, and repeated 
 another with great ease and correctness. In the Conference 
 Catechism they evinced considerable proficiency. They com- 
 bined spelling with Geography, spelling the names of the 
 various islands of the Pacific, and describing their inhabitants, 
 produce, &c. In Scripture History and Arithmetic they had, 
 considering their circumstances, acquired a very respectable 
 knowledge. Their writing in many cases was good, and in 
 some even elegant. 
 
 On the dismissal of this school, the sweet voices of the 
 children connected with the Normal Institution were heard in 
 the distance; and after approaching the chapel, and going 
 through the various evolutions connected with the Glasgow 
 training system with much spirit and manifest pleasure, they
 
 230 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 presented themselves for examination in the usual squatting 
 posture. They were dripping with oil; and the young Prince, 
 in a beautiful native dress, sat at their head. They read the 
 Scriptures, some of them with much fluency. Their writing 
 on slates was creditable; but the slates being greasy from the 
 oil dropping from their hair, in some cases the writing was so 
 faint that one of them complained it was "dead." Only a few 
 could do anything in Arithmetic. In spelling they gave the 
 correct orthography of the different countries in America, thus 
 embracing both spelling and Geography. They stated the 
 distances of the principal English towns from London with 
 tolerable correctness; repeated the 10th chapter of John, and 
 answered questions in the Second Conference Catechism very 
 satisfactorily. 
 
 These little people, upwards of 80, having passed through 
 their examination, gave place to the school under the patronage 
 of the Queen. It consisted of 100 adults, principally married 
 women; and Charlotte having changed her attire, now appeared 
 in her native costume at the head of her school. As they 
 came in procession to the chapel, they sang the following 
 native chant: 
 
 LITERAL TRANSLATION. 
 
 1 "A guilty world stood exposed to wrath, 
 
 But Jesus beheld it in love. 
 (Chorus of response.) 
 And we weep whilst we sing his dying love. 
 
 2 " In Gethsemane's garden he sweat drops of blood, 
 
 That for us he might slay the last foe. 
 And we weep whilst we sing his dying love. 
 
 3 " Thou saidst to thy few disciples there, 
 
 That sorrow oppressed thy soul. 
 And we weep whilst we sing thy dying love. 
 
 4 " He was judged to cruel death, 
 
 Yet he opened not his mouth. 
 And we weep whilst we sing his dying love. 
 
 "We look to thy wounded side, once pierced 
 
 By the Roman soldier's spear. 
 And we weep whilst we sing thy dying love.
 
 THE SOUTHERN WOKLU. 231 
 
 6* " We pray and not faint in Jesus's name, 
 
 And worship for evermore. 
 And we weep whilst we sing his dying love." 
 
 Both words and tune were prepared by Jochabed Fehia, the 
 poetic hair-dresser, and produced a powerful effect. The 
 school read and repeated chapters of the New Testament, 
 answered several questions in the Catechism, and spelled 
 different words found in Wesley's Hymns, all with correctness. 
 In Geography, considerable proficiency had been made; the 
 writing was very creditable; and the Queen, who mainly con- 
 ducted the examination, retired with her pupils evidently 
 much gratified with their proficiency. 
 
 The next school presented was under the patronage of the 
 wife of the Chief Justice, a most excellent and intelligent 
 woman. Indeed, she is so fond of learning, that I found she 
 was not merely the patroness but the teacher of this school. 
 It contained upwards of 70 young women, the flower of the 
 population, and, as I was told, the beauty of the place. Certainly 
 they were handsome young women, and they seemed to have 
 vied with each other who should appear most attractive. 
 Ingenuity had been at work to give variety and beauty to the 
 native costume. They were all profusely oiled, and on the 
 foreheads of some was vermilion, and on the heads of others 
 grated sandal-wood, furnishing, in their opinion, both beauty 
 and sweet odour. They repeated the Lord's prayer in English 
 with credit ; read and recited chapters of the New Testament 
 correctly; wrote on slates beautifully; and showed a good 
 knowledge of the Catechism. They also read a little in 
 English, and translated several English phrases into Tongese 
 with much ease. In Arithmetic they did well ; and several 
 questions as to the distances, revolutions, magnitudes, &c., of 
 the heavenly bodies they answered correctly. Their remarks 
 on Natural History were good, and somewhat amusing. In 
 describing the beaver, they said, "a house-building animal. 
 Beavers cut wood with their teeth : they have four teeth, two 
 above, and two below, with which they gnaw large trees until 
 they fall. They then drag them to a running stream, and
 
 232 THE SOUTHERN WOELD. 
 
 erect the pillars of their houses in its centre, and make an 
 upper room above the water, where they reside, and thatch it 
 with clay. For a drum they strike the water with their tails, 
 with which to call their brethren to labour." In describing the 
 squirrel, they said, " An animal that is a sailor. It is in the 
 habit of climbing ; and when it journeys, it jumps from branch 
 to branch of the trees, instead of walking on the ground. 
 Squirrels make canoes from the bark of trees, by stripping off 
 the bark, drying it, and dragging it to the water. They then 
 embark, and each one lifts up his tail, which forms a sail. 
 Away they go to a warmer clime, when the winter arrives at 
 the place where they reside." The patroness of this school 
 used the whistle with telling effect, and at the close of the 
 examination presented it to me. 
 
 Now followed a school of 60 men, under the patronage of 
 an aged Chief. One half of them had formerly been boys in 
 the Training Institution. In reading, and in Scriptural know- 
 ledge, they appeared to much advantage. In Geography they 
 were respectable, and in spelling the different fountains and 
 streams of Feejee they seemed to excel In Arithmetic 
 they were less perfect. 
 
 The concluding school of 150 men, under the patronage of 
 a great Chief, the son of the late King Josiah, was -full of 
 vigour. They read, spelled, went through part of the Second 
 Catechism, answered questions in Scripture Geography, and 
 worked a few sums in Arithmetic, with as much energy as if 
 the war-whoop had been sounded, and they were preparing for 
 battle; and when they chanted the multiplication table to one 
 of their wild native airs, the effect was startling, and produced 
 a powerful influence upon the assembly. 
 
 At the conclusion I delivered a short address, and thus ended 
 the most interesting examination it has ever been my privilege 
 to witness. Nor were these all the schools of Tongatabu, but 
 simply those of the town of Nukualofa. In the island there 
 are 60 village-schools, taught by 12 persons trained in the 
 institution, and a number of local-preachers, both parties 
 giving their services gratis.
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. . 233 
 
 In the examination, which was not got up, the pupils chanted 
 almost everything; this mode of receiving instruction being 
 very attractive to these merry islanders, and making a deeper 
 impression on the mind than the same truth would do un- 
 associated with tune. The state of the schools indicated the 
 diligence and efficiency of Mr. Amos. 
 
 At the close of this interesting service, by the invitation of 
 Mr. and Mrs. Adams, the King and Queen dined with us, and 
 after dinner Charlotte presented me with the native dress she 
 had worn at the head of her school, that I might convey it to 
 Mrs. Young, this being the highest compliment, according to 
 Tongese notions, that could be paid to my wife. As the " John 
 Wesley " was to sail the following morning, the King went on 
 board in the evening. I saw him take leave of his household, 
 and the scene was deeply affecting. They wailed as for the 
 dead. Thousands lined the shores; and as George passed 
 through among them with unfaltering step, the burst of grief 
 was overwhelming, causing his lips to quiver, and so 
 thoroughly piercing my heart that I wept like a child. As 
 soon as the King stepped into the boat, it was surrounded, 
 and not without much difficulty could it be pushed off. That 
 being effected, many plunged into the sea, and followed until 
 they were obliged to stop. Here they remained, above the waist 
 in water, until darkness enveloped them, pouring forth their 
 wailings, and exclaiming, " Your love is dead ! Your love is 
 dead ! " Amongst them was the King's daughter, overflowing 
 with affection, and frantic with grief; but the Queen, though 
 feeling the parting most acutely, conducted herself with 
 much Christian propriety, remaining in secret, praying and 
 weeping there. 
 
 After this affecting scene, I called, with Messrs. Adams and 
 Amos, upon the Chief Judge, who had for some time been 
 unwell. I found him in a delightful state of mind, intent upon 
 the great business of life. He being an eloquent, powerful, 
 and useful local-preacher, as well as a Judge, I wished for an 
 outline of one of his sermons, which he kindly furnished. The 
 subject is the Judgment, a suitable topic for the Chief Judge
 
 234 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 of these islands; and the outline, though respectable, I was 
 told did not convey an adequate idea of his preaching power. 
 [Note F.] 
 
 On returning to the Mission-House, I held a short service, 
 and baptized the son of Mr. and Mrs. Adams. Mr. Adams, 
 who is the brother of Adams the celebrated astronomer of 
 Cambridge, also possesses a taste for the same ennobling 
 science. Some time ago, having calculated the eclipse of the 
 moon, he stated the hour it would take place. Much interest 
 was awakened, especially among his pupils. When the period 
 approached, the whole population of the place became excited; 
 and, as the eclipse occurred according to calculation, the 
 astonishment of the people was indescribable. Since then, Mr. 
 Adams has regularly, and with perfect accuracy, calculated the 
 eclipses of both sun and moon, and is regarded in these islands 
 as a most extraordinary man. 
 
 CHAPTEE XL 
 
 DEPARTURE from Tonga Queen's letter Population Political con- 
 stitution Recognised ranks Mental character Education Arrival at 
 Vavau Sabbath Church-meeting School examination Kava 
 drinking Letter to the King His reply Native Minister Produce of 
 the islands Employment of the people Social condition Domestic 
 circle Tradition How the people speak of their former condition. 
 
 AT 5 o'clock in the morning of October the 28th, I went 
 down to the beach to go on board the " John Wesley." The 
 morning was exceedingly fine, and the Queen, with her attend- 
 ants, was there to bid me good-bye. In doing so, she presented 
 me with the native dress which the King had worn at the 
 school on the previous day. " And Jonathan stripped himself
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 235 
 
 of the robe that was upon him, and gave it to David." The 
 present of the King's robe brought this token of friendship to 
 my mind, and furnished a very impressive and interesting 
 illustration. 
 
 The Queen also gave me a letter addressed to Mrs. Young, 
 beautifully written with her own hand. The following trans- 
 lation is by Mr. Amos : 
 
 " October Nth, 1853. 
 
 "0 MRS. YOUNG, 
 
 " I WRITE this to you to make known my love to you, and to 
 express the feelings of iny heart. I thank the Lord that I am 
 spared to live until these days,and just at the time of the coming 
 of the 'John Wesley.' And Mr. Young came in her, and to our 
 house, and conversed of you and of your children, and of your 
 dwelling in sorrow because he has come to visit the work of 
 the Lord in these seas. Whilst I listened to the conversation 
 of Mr. Young concerning you, love sprang up in my heart 
 towards you, and I said at once, I will write this writing to 
 show my love to you. Another reason why I feel disposed to 
 write this letter is, that you are the wife of a great Minister. 
 A farther reason why I write to you is, because I know you to 
 be a pious lady of the true lotu. I make known to you that 
 I have no present to send you commensurate with the fulness 
 of my mind, but only this, my writing. Were I to send you 
 the perishing trash of earth, it would crumble away ; but this 
 my writing [alluding to her undying love] will not perish. 
 My mind is, that while I live I may keep the commandments 
 of the Lord Jesus, which bring salvation, and have a recom- 
 pense of reward, a reward, not of filthy lucre of this world, 
 but an eternal reward in heaven. I am moved to obey the 
 commands of the Lord Jesus by the word of God, thus : ' If 
 ye love me, keep my commandments.' These commandments 
 sustain my mind in doing the will of the Lord. 
 
 " Concerning you, Mrs. Young, I do wish I could see you in 
 this world, but the great ocean rolls between and severs us : 
 therefore we are separated from each other, and cannot see
 
 236 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 each other's person. that we may live by faith in the Lord, 
 that we may meet in the world invisible to mortal eye ! And 
 this is my conversation to you, Mrs. Young. When the 'John 
 Wesley ' arrived, I did not know it was her. The vessel came 
 in on the twenty-first of the days of the moon October, which 
 was Friday. I was sitting in my house, waiting for the time of 
 the Institution-bell, and at the hour I went; and, as I passed 
 out at the gate, I saw a vessel letting down the anchor in the 
 harbour : but, when I got to the Institution, an order came 
 from Mr. Amos and Mr. Adams to postpone the Institution, 
 for the 'John Wesley' was come, and had brought Ministers. 
 When I heard she had Ministers on board, my heart rejoiced 
 greatly; and, as I walked down the road, tears started into 
 my eyes through the grace which operated on my mind. And 
 when I knew the love of God to Tonga, by his sending these 
 Ministers to visit this Tonga, and when I saw the countenances 
 of the two Ministers, love to them arose in my heart, and since 
 that day the Lord has wrought upon my soul and mind. And 
 then again at the Friday evening prayer-meeting, Mr. Amos 
 told us the new Scriptures were come, and my joy was 
 increased. Then, when the Sabbath came, Mr. Young preached 
 in the morning from the writing of Matthew xxii. 42, and, 
 under the sermon, my heart was like a fire whilst listening to 
 the preaching of Christ. So it was under the afternoon sermon. 
 Mr. N. Turner preached from the Acts of the Apostles, xi. 23; 
 and they were two sermons which did my soul very much good. 
 When Mr. Turner narrated the origin of the lotu here, my 
 mind felt great peace, for I knew that I was turned from 
 darkness to light, raised from death unto life. I was then a 
 Heathen, I am now a Christian of the Lord Jesus Christ. 
 
 " At the time I wrote this letter we were in the midst of 
 confusion, as it was just when George Tubou, the King of 
 Tonga, was going on board the 'John Wesley' to sail for 
 Port Jackson. And as I remain in sorrow with my boy, 
 [Prince George, the heir apparent,] I leave him [the King] 
 with the Lord, to take him in safety and bring him back in 
 safety. As he is known to have done, or wont to have done,
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 237 
 
 to David of old, so may he do to Tubou ! May he save him 
 from the sea, and in a far-distant land! 
 
 " To-day we held our school-feast; and it was a good one. 
 We rejoiced, and the Missionaries rejoiced. 
 
 " And this is the end of my writing, but it is not the end of 
 my love. 
 
 " I am, 
 
 " CHARLOTTE TUBOU." 
 " A correct translation. R AMOS." 
 
 At 7 o'clock the " John Wesley" sailed, but not until several 
 Chiefs had been on board to rub noses with the King, and to 
 pour forth their grief in loud lamentations. 
 
 During my sojourn in Tongatabu, I obtained the following 
 information respecting the country and its inhabitants: . 
 
 " The population of the Friendly Islands," says Mr. Amos, 
 " I should judge to be more than 22,000, but we will try to 
 take a census." According to tradition, the population was 
 immense in former times; but war, famine, and pestilence 
 swept thousands upon thousands from these lands; and cer- 
 tainly the deserted towns and villages in the country are 
 numerous. The Missionaries think the population is now 
 decreasing, but it may not be so. A few years of peace and 
 plenty, no doubt, would show a great difference, as war and 
 famine, as well as frequent influenza, carry off many people. 
 
 The Political constitution of the country is an absolute 
 monarchy. Each clan has its Chief; and that Chief is 
 Governor, or Lieutenant, in the town or village where he 
 lives. The King rules the Chiefs, and the Chiefs rule the 
 people. 
 
 Various ranks are recognised among the inhabitants. It 
 appears that the Tamaha stood first as a divine Chief, and the 
 Tul Tonga would make kava for her. This rank is lost. The 
 last Tamaha died two years ago. The Tui Tonga ranks next, 
 and the Tuikanokubolu would make kava for him as a sign of 
 inferiority. The present Tui Tonya is the last of his race, 
 and the rank will die with him. The Tuikanokubolus have
 
 238 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 been the crowned Kings of the land for nearly two hundred 
 years; but the Tuihaa takalaua was above him formerly, 
 although that office is now defunct. King George is Tuikano- 
 Jcubolu, and that title will doubtless be abolished, the present 
 King choosing to be called King only. Formerly any member 
 of the royal family used to be eligible for King, but now 
 Prince George is regarded as Crown Prince, and all parties 
 look up to him as their future King. His rank and family 
 connections will unite all parties of the population. 
 
 Next come the Chiefs, who are of various grades, but I 
 need not mention them : then Matdbules, or gentlemen, who 
 are the associates and companions, or satellites of the Chiefs. 
 Muas are next in rank, and form the connecting link between 
 the lower and the higher classes. Tuas are the common 
 people, who have not been taken captive in war. TamaioeiMs 
 are slaves, who have forfeited their liberty by crime, or who 
 have been taken captive in war. But slavery is now abolished. 
 These are the general ranks of society, and they create much 
 of caste among the people. 
 
 The metftal character of the Friendly Islanders is respectable. 
 Mr. Amos, in a communication with which he favoured me, 
 says, " I am not aware that the intellect of the people is more 
 stultified than that of the other nations of the earth. I would 
 not of set purpose overrate the native mind, nor am I willing 
 to depreciate it in any measure. I am not prepared to make 
 any unqualified statements, either for or against their intel- 
 lectual character. But, as far as I have observed, I am not 
 sensible of any deficiency of understanding in them. I would 
 not say that it is very vigorous, yet we frequently see indi- . 
 cations of power, especially in grappling with Popery. 
 
 " We have an old local-preacher who is Mr. Adams's pundit. 
 At present he is lying ill at the other end of the Circuit, and 
 a more powerful preacher, I think, could not be found among 
 the native Missionary agents of Wesleyan Methodism rn any 
 quarter, of the globe. Johnny, as we familiarly call him,fmore 
 than once came in contact with the French Priests ; but bfingi 
 an intelligent Christian, he was able to give a reason of the
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 239 
 
 hope that was in him. On one occasion he was attacked by a 
 padre at the village of Hoi, who asked him if it were not 
 safe for a sheep to be in the true fold when the wolf was 
 nigh? ' Yes,' said Johnny; ' and when I see a wolf in sheep's 
 clothing near me, depend upon it I am on my guard ; and 
 whilst in the keeping of Christ, the Great Shepherd, I am 
 quite safe.' The enemy was thus unexpectedly foiled. The 
 Tongese are fond of metaphor, and are apt at a figure, having 
 a lively imagination, although not exactly brilliant. At a gibe 
 they are clever, and at repartee they are adepts. Vulgar 
 sarcasm is not common; but gentle satire distinguishes all 
 their conversation. Decision of mind, and promptness of 
 action, are sometimes observed, especially in the King, who, 
 though far superior to the generality of his Chiefs and people, 
 may nevertheless be fairly instanced in illustration of my 
 subject. 5f practical wisdom, united with calm courage and 
 daring enterprise in a military leader, attended by a succession 
 of victories, without one defeat, constitute a hero, then is the 
 King of the Friendly Islands a hero in the proper military 
 sense of that term. The late war brought out the character 
 ' of the King in all its dignity and nobleness ; and in the 
 decisions of his mind, as well as the tactics of his campaign, 
 there was much of majesty. 
 
 " The range of their knowledge is at present, of course, 
 limited; but I think them capable of a high state of cultiva- 
 tion, were the circumstances of their country favourable, and 
 their intercourse with Europeans frequent. That, however, 
 which is of most value in the eye of the Christian philan- 
 thropist is the respectable stock of religious knowledge which 
 they have acquired, and the correct manner in which they 
 speak upon the Scripture facts and characters. Whatever 
 "is printed in the native language is soon bought up by them, 
 and read with great care : witness the first edition of the New 
 Testament, which was sold immediately; and for the last two 
 years a copy could not have been obtained in Tonga, even 
 though a man had offered a sovereign for one. 
 
 " Their acquaintance with the truths of religion is ascertained
 
 240 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 best in their prayers; and they sh6w a retentive memory in 
 analyzing a sermon which they have heard on the preceding- 
 Sabbath, at a week-night prayer-meeting. Take, for example, 
 the sermon you preached to them on Sunday morning last, 
 from 'What think ye of Christ?' At the Monday evening 
 prayer-meeting it formed the subject of most of their prayers; 
 and what part one had not got the other remembered, so that 
 it gave a pleasing variety to their addresses to the throne of 
 grace, and diffused a hallowed feeling through all hearts. The 
 Queen praised God for your coming amongst us, preaching 
 Christ, the only foundation of a sinner's hope and comfort; 
 and that you had brought no new-fangled doctrine, but the same 
 burden to which they had listened from the first. One of my 
 young men took up the several parts of the sermon, and in 
 his* prayer showed that he had made the discourse his own; 
 and I have no doubt that many of the local-preachers will 
 give a second edition of your sermon to many a Tonga village ; 
 and that long after the voice we heard last Sabbath shall be 
 lost in unbroken silence, that sermon will be preached by the 
 Friendly Islanders. These natives have therefore understand- 
 ing, imagination, memory, and prompt volition. I have formed ' 
 a high estimate of them, and may almost say that I am an 
 enthusiastic admirer of the intelligent Tonga teacher, and love 
 to hear him preach." 
 
 The social condition and isolated character of these islands 
 are prejudicial to the advancement of educational operations. 
 The people are poor, and require to work much, especially the 
 children. When a youth has acquired a tolerable knowledge 
 of school lore, there being no commerce here, he knows not to 
 what he can apply it, unless he becomes a local-preacher or 
 'school-teacher. Hence there is but little incentive to the 
 youth of Tonga to attend to instruction. Should the visit of 
 the King to Australia open commercial relations between that 
 country and these islands, then we may hope to see education 
 more desired and valued. 
 
 But I must name another difficulty in the way of educa- 
 tional operations, we have no salaried teachers. Every school-
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 241 
 
 teacher in the Friendly Islands works for nothing; and even 
 teachers who have been three years students in the Institu- 
 tion have gone to schools without a farthing's salary, and some 
 of them have charge of three schools. But this must have 
 an end. Mr. Amos says : " The men who were under my 
 instruction have been again and again to say that they cannot 
 teach so many schools, and work for their families besides. My 
 proposal is, therefore, that the teachers be paid out of an 
 educational grant from the Society, or we may look in vain for 
 first-class schools here. We have done all that we could with 
 the means hitherto at our disposal, and the word of God is 
 read regularly and with delight." 
 
 But, notwithstanding the disadvantages under which the 
 Friendly Islander labours in reference to education, much has 
 been already accomplished. Not fewer than 8,000 can read 
 the Scriptures with more or less ability ; and learners to read, 
 who are numerous, are not reckoned in this estimate. About 
 5,000 can write, and some of them a beautiful hand. The 
 writing is taught on slates in the schools. Numbers have also 
 made respectable progress in Arithmetic, Geography, and some 
 other branches of learning. 
 
 The number of books in the Tongese language as yet is 
 limited. There are the New Testament, second complete 
 edition, but that may properly be styled the third edition, as 
 the whole of the New Testament was in the hands of the 
 natives many years ago, except Hebrews, Mark, and Revela- 
 tion ; a Hymn-book, second edition; a Sunday-service, second 
 edition, just printed off at Vavau, not yet bound; First and 
 Second Conference Catechism, third edition; Geography of the 
 World, second edition; Sacred Geography, second edition; 
 Code of Laws, a copy of which I possess. A periodical was 
 started in 1845, called the "Friendly Visitor," and might have 
 done good if bound in volumes; but the Tongese will not 
 take in books by numbers, and they like a book with a good 
 binding. Several books of the Old Testament have also been 
 translated; and it is expected that the whole Book of God 
 will soon be in the hands of the people. 
 
 M
 
 24:2 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 October 29th. After a splendid run we reached Vavau group 
 at sunrise. I went on deck, and what a scene of beauty was 
 presented ! I counted about 30 islands of various forms and 
 sizes, gilded by the rays of the rising sun. We soon entered the 
 bay of Vavau, and proceeded for 10 miles to the town of Nieafu, 
 off which we anchored. The bay is capacious; full of beautiful 
 islets ; and would hardly be second to Port Jackson in point of 
 grandeur, did villas and gardens adorn its numerous sloping 
 banks, and ornament its many coves. The water in the har- 
 bour is of great depth, and the navy of every nation might 
 safely anchor here. A canoe approached; but no sooner was it 
 known that the King was on board, than the natives paddled off 
 with the greatest speed. On their reaching the shore we soon 
 heard the beating of the drum, and the shouting of the people. 
 This brought forcibly to my mind the words of the prophet : 
 "Rejoice greatly, daughter of Zion; shout, daughter of 
 Jerusalem : behold, thy King cometh unto thee." The Kev. G. 
 Daniel, our excellent Missionary, was soon on board ; and after 
 breakfast we went on shore, the King having previously gone. 
 On our arrival at the Mission-House we received a most kind 
 reception from Mrs. Daniel. Benjamin Latuselu, Native 
 Assistant-Missionary, came to congratulate us: he had but 
 two garments on his person, a white calico shirt, and a 
 surtout of the same material. In a few hours, however, he 
 returned well attired, with the exception of his lacking shoes and 
 stockings, and I found him a most interesting and pious man. 
 
 Having had some refreshment, we walked through the town, 
 which contains about 2,000 inhabitants. It is very much like 
 Nukulofa, embowered in a grove of cocoa-nut and other 
 beautiful trees peculiar to the tropics. The climate must be 
 salubrious, or a town so situated, where the decomposition of 
 vegetable matter is so extensive and continuous, would produce 
 the most destructive malaria. The town, however, is healthy; 
 and fever, that plague of the West Indies, is entirely unknown. 
 The only epidemic to which the people appeared to be subject 
 was influenza, and that, I understood, had occasionally been 
 very fatal.
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 243 
 
 Several local-preachers and leaders called at the Mission- 
 House to pay their respects; and one of them having inquired 
 if I had come to remain, I replied that my age forbade that. 
 He then said, the great work in these islands required the 
 direction of men, rather than children, and hoped that I would 
 make my abode amongst them. The Missionaries now in the 
 islands are all young; and in speaking of them as children he 
 did not in any respect intend to disparage them, for they are 
 all greatly beloved, but simply to intimate that the state of the 
 churches in those islands needed the influence of age and ex- 
 perience in their direction and government. I had a good deal 
 of conversation with many of them, and found their knowledge 
 of Christian truth very satisfactory. 
 
 Mr. Daniel fully concurred with the Missionaries of Tonga, 
 as respects the desirableness of connecting these Missions with 
 the Australian Conference. 
 
 3(M. Sabbath in Vavau. At daybreak, the beat of the 
 native drum summoned the people to the house of God. A 
 prayer-meeting was held, and well attended. The King being 
 present, the people in their prayers made many allusions to his 
 leaving the country, and prayed that if the thing were not of 
 God it might be prevented, but that if it were of God the King 
 might be preserved and returned in safety, full of knowledge 
 and blessing. I was informed that the King did not like to be 
 prayed for in public. He said, that some in their prayer sought 
 to instruct him as to what he ought to do; others took that 
 opportunity to censure him for what he had done; and others 
 evidently intended to flatter him, both as a Christian and as 
 a King. He declared, therefore, that the people would 
 please him better by praying for him in private rather than in 
 public. 
 
 At 8 o'clock the Sunday-school began, and at 9 o'clock the 
 public worship. The chapel, a good native building, capable 
 of accommodating 700 persons, was quite full. About one-third 
 of the men, including the Chiefs, appeared in shirts, three in 
 the European costume, and four or five more with trousers. 
 About ten women were in the English attire; not, however, 
 
 M 2
 
 244 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 according to the Bond-street fashion, but more like that of 
 some country village fifty years ago; and from the very peculiar 
 manner in which some of the articles of dress were arranged, 
 it was evident that the wearers had not been much instructed 
 in the mysteries of the toilet. About one-fourth more of the 
 females had some portion of European attire, which seemed to 
 have been put on out of respect to their visitors. Mr. Daniel 
 read the Liturgy in the native tongue, with great ease and 
 fluency, the people chanting the responses with much earnest- 
 ness and harmony. I preached, Mr. Daniel interpreting, and 
 began to feel myself quite at home in this mode of preaching 
 salvation to the people. Attention was kept up, and I hope 
 some good effected, whilst I preached repentance and the 
 remission of sins in the name of Jesus. Sevei-al prayed after 
 the sermon, amongst whom was the King; and it was evident 
 that they had fully understood the discourse. At half-past 2 
 o'clock the Sunday-school assembled, and at half-past 3 o'clock 
 public worship was again celebrated. Mr. Miller preached in 
 the native tongue, and the people manifestly drank in the word. 
 Many came to congratulate me; and a few honoured me with 
 the salutation given to superior Chiefs, in which salutation the 
 nose and the lips come in contact with the back of the hand, 
 attended with two or three sounds, resembling something 
 between kissing and smelling. I found that my physical pro- 
 portions greatly contributed to my popularity, the people 
 declaring that any one might see that I was a great Chief. 
 Nor did it detract from my fame, when it was known that I 
 had a wife and seven children. In the evening, at 5 o'clock, 
 a prayer-meeting was held in the chapel, evidently attended 
 with much good. Thus ended the services of a most interesting 
 Sabbath. I could not but contrast the present state of this 
 people with their former condition, and gratefully exclaim, 
 " What hath God wrought!" 
 
 I thought of the first Christian Sabbath acknowledged in 
 Vavau, little more than twenty years ago, when Finau, the 
 King, for the first time bowed his knee before the Lord, and 
 gave orders to his servants to do likewise. A number of the
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 245 
 
 people, of their own accord, ere long joined them. The first 
 act that a person performs, who in these islands becomes a 
 Christian, is to bow the knee to the Most High, and many 
 now performed that act. They had a blessed Sabbath, the 
 first of a series which, I hope, may end only with time. As 
 soon as the Sabbath was over, the King gave directions that 
 seven of the principal .idols should be placed in a row. He 
 then addressed them in language similar to the following: 
 " I have brought you here to prove you, and I tell you before- 
 hand what 1 am about to do, that you may be without 
 excuse." Then commencing with the first, he said, " You 
 profess to be a God, and to do great things. I doubt the 
 truth of your claims; but, if you really are a God, show it by 
 running away, or you shall be burned in the fire which I 
 have prepared!" The god, of course, made no attempt to 
 move. He then addressed the next in like manner, until he 
 came to the last, when he expressed himself in most cutting 
 irony, much in the style of the prophet on Mount Carmel : 
 and ag none of the gods ran, to establish their claim to 
 divinity, the King gave orders that they and their temples 
 should be destroyed. His orders were promptly obeyed; and 
 many temples, with their several deities, were set on fire. 
 The weather being wet, it was three days before they were 
 entirely consumed. Some of the people were greatly alarmed 
 at these proceedings, considering them very bold and wicked; 
 but others were utterly fearless, and with great zeal and 
 alacrity carried on the work of destruction. "And the idols he 
 shall utterly abolish." 
 
 31st. Took a walk about sunrise, and from an eminence 
 near the town had a splendid view of the bay. Its various 
 islets and numerous windings, giving to it the appearance 
 of many lakes embosomed amid rich and romantic scenery, 
 rendered the view exceedingly picturesque. In the afternoon 
 there was a meeting of the church-members. The drum 
 having given the notice, the tapa-beating throughout the 
 place at once ceased, and the people repaired with all speed 
 to the house of God. I stated, through the medium of Mr.
 
 246 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 Daniel, that I should like to hear from them what they 
 knew experimentally of the Gospel of Christ; and several of 
 them spoke in succession with much fluency and deep 
 feeling. Mr. Daniel took notes, and kindly furnished me 
 with the following, as specimens of the statements made on 
 the occasion. 
 
 Lote Ikahihifo. " I have long enjoyed the work of God in my heart. 
 I was converted at Feletoa. I know that my life is short ; that hell is a 
 terrible place ; and I wish to use all diligence. I enjoy peace with God, 
 and pray much to God that I may be filled with grace. In times of 
 temptation I seek Christ ; feeling, as I do, that I cannot trust or depend 
 upon myself." 
 
 Ilaiakimi Taufa. "When the Gospel reached Tonga I heard, and 
 was convinced of its truth, but not saved. I was converted at the great 
 revival here. In reading the book of the Prophet Isaiah, I was power- 
 fully impressed. I read in the Psalms, that praise could not he offered 
 from the grave, therefore I sought earnestly ; when, one night, it appeared 
 to me as though a light shone within, and brought to my view my many 
 sins. I started with alarm, and felt that had I died then I must 
 have gone to hell. I saw that Christ alone could save, and that nothing 
 else was sufficient for me. The Lord saved me ; when I felt an imme- 
 diate desire to praise him, and to show others the way to that good which 
 I had obtained. I greatly rejoice to see the two new Ministers (Messrs. 
 Young and Turner). My heart cleaves to God's Ministers ; they are my 
 guides." 
 
 David Malubo. " I speak not of my former state : all I know is, that 
 I was a vile sinner, a heathen. But the lotu came when I was in Tonga. 
 I was wicked, and came to Vavau during the first revival. I got to know 
 the Lord, and embrace Christianity. Heard Mr. Thomas preach from 
 ' He that being often reproved,' &c., and found it useful to my soul. At 
 the second revival in this chapel, I received the love of God. Mr. Turner 
 is my spiritual father. When you go to England, tell them I am their 
 child in the Gospel of our Lord Jesus Christ. I am thankful when I 
 think of that time." 
 
 Moses Lomu. " I wish to speak of the goodness of God to my soul. 
 The devil obstructs, but Christ helps me, and commands me to speak. I 
 thought to let the old man speak, but the Lord has opened my mouth. 
 When young I joined with all who despised Christ, his servants, and his 
 work. I grew in stature, and the Lord worked in my soul. I went from 
 hence to Tonga with a Chief who has gone. I still heard the word, and 
 with power sometimes, but resisted. Sickness came, and I had nearly 
 gone ; and it struck me, O, where is my soul ? I recovered, but still 
 resisted. I went to live with Mr. Daniel. Saw the Sacrament administered. 
 I sat outside. It seemed as though the Lord came and said, ' What doest
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 247 
 
 thou here ? How is it thou wilt not submit ?' I then determined to give 
 my heart to God ; sought him earnestly. Heard a sermon on ' For we 
 must all appear before the judgment-seat of Christ,' &c. I heard of the 
 shame some would experience who would be there ; and I thought I must 
 be there. I found the Lord, and now ' the love of Christ constraineth.' 
 This is that which urges me to work on, till I get home to heaven, to cast 
 myself at Jesus's feet." 
 
 Belenaise Tutoe. " I became a Christian, not because I wished it, but 
 the King in his zeal commanded my father and others to lotu. I did so 
 in consequence ; heard Mr. Thomas preach, and began to see the truth. I 
 feared God, and commenced meeting in class. My mind was enlightened 
 at the first revival. One day I expected to fall into hell ; I cried, and 
 prayed, and feared I should die. At a prayer-meeting, held at Mr. 
 Turner's house, I was saved. I remember him with affection. I am the 
 fruit of his labour and prayer." 
 
 llaija Tahifote. " I resided here during the existence of the first chapel. 
 I heard Mr. Turner preach on the sufferings of Christ. I went home to 
 weep, and wondered at the mercy of God to me. During the revival, I 
 felt peace with God, was alive to Christ, and, in the course of time, 
 preached.^ At my first attempt to preach, the Lord broke in upon the 
 people. I boasted not, it was the Lord's work. I still continue firm by the 
 grace of God. 1 voyaged to the Navigators', and saw much of the work 
 and grace of God there. I remember all, but especially that time when 
 the Lord called me to himself." 
 
 Benijamane Latuselu." I praise God for being permitted to behold Mr. 
 Young. I feel much grace in my heart. Yesterday was a good day to 
 my soul, and I felt greatly benefited whilst listening to the sermon of Mr. 
 Young. I know the value of repentance. I met in Mr. Cross's class: 
 my heart was hard, and Mr. Turner came and preached. My sins seemed 
 all heaped on my head, and appeared like a great hammer constantly 
 thumping me. I could get no rest, night or day, took no food, and con- 
 tinued thus for some time. Some sixteen years back Mr. Turner took me 
 to Feletoa, and preached from ' The city of Refuge.' I then saw Christ 
 as my refuge, and rejoiced: this I hid, but Mr. Turner inquired, and dis- 
 covered it, and begged me not to bury the good I had received. After- 
 wards he brought me to a Local-preachers' Meeting, that I might speak 
 of the good I had received. I became a local-preacher, and saw the 
 good of the work of God. I engaged in the ministry, and have gone about 
 in the work to Samoa, but am now labouring here. At one thing my 
 mind is greatly pained ; it is at the little we as a people do for the cause 
 of God, for our Missionaries. See what they have done for us, left 
 home, friends, and all ! See Mr. Young ; there is love ! But what do 
 we do ? "Why, we sit at ease, with our arms folded. But let us do our 
 duty, act like men, and God will bless and prosper us." 
 
 At the conclusion of the meeting, scores came and shook 
 hands with me; and, though differing in language, country,
 
 248 THE SOUTHEBN WORLD. 
 
 manners, station, and colour, I felt we were one in Christ, and 
 possessed common sympathies. I was introduced to a very 
 old woman, who said she distinctly remembered the visit of 
 Captain Cook to these islands. 
 
 November 1st. At daybreak visited the King's premises, and 
 canoe-house, where I saw a very large double canoe, 90 feet in 
 length, made without a nail, all being sewed together by sinnet, 
 and indicating considerable skill. At 8 o'clock the examination 
 of the schools took place in the chapel. The first that came 
 forward belonged to Nieafu, and consisted of 125 scholars; and 
 although called the children's school, some of the pupils were 
 arrived at womanhood. They read the Scriptures pretty well, 
 and repeated the 1st chapter of St. John's Gospel with much 
 freedom. I then questioned them upon what they had repeated, 
 and to each question received a prompt reply. " Who is the 
 Lamb of God?" " Jesus Christ." "Why is he called the Lamb 
 of God 1 ?" "Because he was a sacrifice." " What is he said to 
 do 1 " "To take away the sins of the world." " Is he not called 
 by another name in this chapter 1 ?" " Yes, the Word." "And 
 what is ascribed to the Word?" " The making of all things." 
 Their writing on slates was creditable; and their Arithmetic, 
 as far as subtraction, was generally correct. 
 
 The next school consisted of 50 children, and came from the 
 adjoining village of Makave. They read the Scriptures very 
 fairly, repeated the llth chapter of John with much ease, 
 and replied correctly to several questions suggested by what 
 they had read. They spelled in English the names of the 
 different States of America, or, at least, professed to do so; 
 but their pronunciation was so extraordinary, that had any 
 American citizen been present he might have thought the 
 work of annexation had been rapidly progressing, and that some 
 provinces of Japan had been taken into the Union. In trans- 
 lating some easy Tongese phrases into English, they appeared 
 to much greater advantage. Their writing merited commenda- 
 tion. They chanted the multiplication-table to a melodious 
 native air, appeared to know the Second Catechism well, but 
 did not show much proficiency in Arithmetic. The pupils of
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 249 
 
 both schools were profusely oiled ; but some of them appeared 
 in beautiful native dresses. 
 
 After the examination they came in procession to the 
 Mission-House, singing a beautiful chant. The object was, 
 to present me with some token of their love. I was therefore 
 presented with yams, fowls, eggs, cocoa-nut oil, shells, combs, 
 fish-hooks, native dresses, &c. ; and although the articles were 
 not of much value, I nevertheless prized them as the gift 
 of the young people. Those schools were only a specimen 
 of many others, there being 70 in the Vavau group, com- 
 prising 3,000 scholars, including adults and children; and, 
 throughout the Friendly Islands, 185 schools, containing 
 7,279 pupils. The seeds of knowledge thus extensively de- 
 posited, I found springing up, bearing fruit, and promising 
 ultimately to produce in these islands a rich harvest. 
 
 In the afternoon, in company with a pleasant party, I 
 visited an eminence commanding an extensive view of the 
 harbour, and of many islands of the Vavau group, which 
 appeared like so many emeralds sparkling in the bosom of 
 the Pacific deep. We were attended by about fifty natives, 
 of both sexes and of different ages, and thus had a fine 
 opportunity of observing their character and manners. Their 
 buoyant spirits and merry countenances rendered them very 
 agreeable. The place was very difficult of access, but they 
 aided us in climbing the rocks with much energy and 
 pleasure, some pulling, others pushing, and making the 
 forest echo with their mirth. On reaching the summit, 
 they prepared a native oven, proceeded to cook our food; and 
 the yams and fowls thus cooked were most delicious. We 
 took our meal on the top of a rock spread over with the 
 broad banana leaf, and drank our tea from cups made of 
 the same material. This was certainly the most extraordinary 
 picnic that I was ever connected with, and can never be 
 forgotten. 
 
 2d. Rose at daybreak, and went to see the King and his 
 Chiefs drink kava. As kava-drinking is an ancient national 
 ceremony, and associated with all important State affairs, I 
 
 M 5
 
 250 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 was anxious to see it. The root of the kava plant was 
 distributed among several persons to masticate. Previously 
 to their undertaking this work, they squatted themselves 
 down upon the lawn in front of the King's house, and rinsed 
 their mouths for the important operation. The process of 
 chewing then commenced, and the root, having thus been 
 made into a pulp, was placed on a banana leaf, and brought 
 by each chewer to the Chief who was to make the kava. 
 It was now put into a large wooden bowl, and, after being 
 well watered, the kava-maker put his hands into the bowl, 
 and for some time appeared as if he were kneading dough. 
 The next part of the process was to strain it; which was 
 done with great dexterity by means of the fine fibres of a 
 tree. The Chiefs, Matabules, &c., had already formed the 
 kava-ring on the beautiful lawn; and the beverage being 
 ready, a cup constructed of the banana leaf was filled, and 
 a person next the kava-maker exclaimed, "Who is this for?" 
 The Matabule who was the appointed speaker on this occasion, 
 then named the person, who at once clapped his hands, and it 
 was accordingly borne to him with much gracefulness by the 
 official cupbearer. The King, being poorly, was not present; 
 but his place in the ring was left vacant, and a cup of kava 
 placed before it. "Who is this for?" was the inquiry, as every 
 succeeding cup was filled, and then presented according to the 
 direction of the Matabule. In answer to the question, " Who 
 is this for?" I heard, to my indescribable dismay, the Matabule 
 mention my name ! The cup was accordingly presented. What 
 was to be done? I did not like to seem rude by refusing to 
 taste ; but then the chewing ! How to get rid of that idea was 
 the difficulty. My stomach being delicate, was already in a 
 state of rebellion. In this perplexity, the King's interpreter, 
 who stood next me, most opportunely came to my relief. " You," 
 said he, "just put your lips to the cup, and then hand it to 
 me." I did so; and, as I tasted, involuntarily shook my head, 
 which occasioned* a laugh. I then offered it to the King's 
 interpreter as my proxy, and in a moment he finished its 
 contents, smacking his lips with peculiar gusto, to the great
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 251 
 
 amusement of the whole party. I then bowed to the Master 
 of the Ceremony and retired, lest a worse thing should come 
 upon me. 
 
 This morning, the King, in accordance with the determination 
 he had already expressed, sent on board the "John Wesley," 
 as provision for the voyage, 5^ tons of yams, 1,548 Ibs. weight 
 of pork, upwards of 2,000 cocoa-nuts, and nearly 600 fowls ! 
 A kingly provision indeed! 
 
 During the forenoon the King paid me a visit, that he might 
 have some conversation on the subject of the following letter, 
 which I had addressed to him a few days previously. 
 
 " To George Tubou, by the Providence of God King of the 
 Friendly Islands. 
 
 " BELOVED KING, I am grateful to God that I have seen 
 your face, heard your voice, and witnessed the triumphs of 
 grace among your people. 
 
 "It is about thirty years since the "Wesleyan Missionaries 
 first visited these islands. The people were then in darkness; 
 but the Sun of Righteousness appeared, and the Gentiles have 
 come to his light, and the King to the brightness of his 
 rising. The land was then a wilderness; but instead of the 
 thorn has come up the fir tree, and instead of the brier the 
 myrtle tree; and although every poisonous weed has not been 
 eradicated, I am nevertheless thankful for what has been done, 
 and would give God the glory. 
 
 "When I had the pleasure of meeting you at Tonga, I 
 desired, as a Deputation from the parent Society, to lay an im- 
 portant subject before you, connected with the cause of God 
 in the Friendly Islands; but your time being so fully occupied 
 in preparing for your voyage to Australia, I deferred doing so 
 at that period, but would now very respectfully call your atten- 
 tion to it. 
 
 " The subject relates to the churches in these islands pro- 
 viding for their own Ministers. It is clearly the duty of 
 Christians to provide for those who are called and separated 
 from worldly pursuits to the office and work of the Ministry
 
 252 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 and who are ' over them in the Lord.' This is matter of dis- 
 tinct revelation. On this subject St. Paul says, ' If we have 
 sown unto you spiritual things, is it a great thing if we 
 shall reap your carnal things'? Do ye not know that they 
 which minister about holy things live of the things of the 
 temple? and they which wait at the altar are partakers with 
 the altar? Even so hath the Lord ordained that they which 
 preach the Gospel should live of the Gospel.' 1 Cor., 9th chap., 
 11, 13, 14. The same Apostle farther says, 'Let him that is 
 taught in the word communicate unto him that teacheth in all 
 good things.' Gal, 6th chap., 6. The meaning of these passages 
 is sufficiently obvious, and Christians who have the ability of 
 sustaining their Ministers ought most assuredly to exert it, or 
 they will neglect a very important duty, and thereby prevent the 
 full development of the Christian character,as an inevitable result. 
 
 " When the people in these beautiful islands were in their 
 infantile state as to religion, we treated them as babes in Christ, 
 and nourished and cherished them accordingly, and rejoice 
 greatly that we did so; but now that they have attained some 
 degree of maturity, and many of them become men, we desire 
 them to occupy a higher position, and a more perfect state as 
 Christian churches. 
 
 " England was once like these islands, a dark nation ; but 
 Missionaries were sent to it. The people embraced the truth ; 
 and now they sustain not only their own Ministers, but also 
 many hundreds of Missionaries in different dark places of the 
 earth, full of the habitations of cruelty. We are anxious that 
 the inhabitants of the Friendly Isles, according to their ability, 
 should in this respect follow the example of the British Isles, 
 whose Christian benevolence has conferred upon them so many 
 blessings. 
 
 " If the Wesleyan Missionary Committee were relieved from 
 supporting the work in these islands of the sea, they would be 
 enabled to send Missionaries to some of the dark and perish- 
 ing nations of the world, now calling for help ; and the godly 
 example thus furnished by the Friendly Islands would exert 
 a good influence upon other Mission churches.
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 253 
 
 " I submit these observations with great respect to your con- 
 sideration, and shall feel much obliged by your favouring me 
 with your views on the subject. 
 
 " I am, beloved King, 
 
 " Your sincere friend, 
 
 " ROBERT YOUNG." 
 " Yavau, Oct. 31s, 1853." 
 
 The King furnished a reply to the above, of which Mr. 
 Daniel took notes, and gave the following translation : 
 
 "I received the letter sent me, and was glad. When I 
 received it, I brought my friends the Chiefs together, and read 
 it to them. They at once made known their minds that it 
 was just, and good, and right for us to do. 
 
 " On account of that place which mentioned in the letter a 
 wish that I would make known my thinkings upon the sub- 
 ject, I am come. But I said in my mind, when I read it, What 
 can I make known 1 ? Why should I express my thinkings? 
 There are subjects upon which, perhaps, it would be right to 
 express my opinion. But is this a matter for individual 
 opinion? Is not this a matter which has been revealed? Is 
 it not a thing which is acted upon all the world over? and is 
 Tonga always to sit down, and do nothing? This shall not be. 
 My mind is to unite in this good work. 
 
 " It is perfectly true, as the letter makes known, that light 
 has come to Tonga; but it must not be thought that all are 
 enlightened. No, many are yet dark, very dark, and especially 
 upon this subject. But what of that? Should the light be 
 governed or led by the darkness? There are those who are 
 willing to join in the work, and we will do it. 
 
 " You say I must not think England cares not for us. Can 
 I look upon what England has done for so many years, and 
 then think they have no love? Not so. But this is our 
 duty, and we will thus help England on account of the 
 world." 
 
 On hearing this statement, I told the King I was thankful 
 for his words, would take care of them as treasure, carry them
 
 254 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 to England, and give them to thousands of the people in that 
 land. 
 
 In the evening Mr. Daniel obligingly favoured me with the 
 annexed replies to the following questions : 
 
 1. "At what places in the District are Native Assistant 
 Missionaries stationed? What are their number, character, and 
 success 1 ?" 
 
 " There are five stationed as follows : Two in Vavau, two in 
 Haabai, and one at Niua. We believe them to be men devoted 
 to God, and willing to spend their lives in his service. Their 
 labours are generally acceptable to the people, and owned of 
 God. Benjamin Latuselu, the oldest Assistant Missionary, sus- 
 tained alone the Wesleyan cause in the Navigators' Islands for 
 some considerable time, and was exceedingly useful to the 
 church there, which consisted of many thousands of members." 
 
 2. "What prospect have you of natives being raised up 
 in these islands, to sustain the office and work of the 
 Ministry?" 
 
 " We expect that in course of years the work may be carried 
 on entirely by native agency. At present, however, though 
 they render very efficient service, they could not be supposed 
 equal to the work of sustaining alone the cause of God. We 
 believe they are the best and brightest of their countrymen ; 
 but they are only in a transition state, their minds, though 
 capable of expansion, are yet contracted, their knowledge 
 small." , 
 
 3. " What proportion of the people still remain heathen?" 
 " Very few indeed ; perhaps not more than fifty in all the 
 
 groups. Only one Chief of any importance remains heathen, 
 whose name is Finautaeiloa." 
 
 4. " What articles of trade do these islands produce ?" 
 
 " Cocoa-nut oil, coffee, sugar-cane, arrowroot, figs, yams, 
 fowls, cotton, oranges, limes, citrons, <fcc." 
 
 5. " How do the people employ themselves?" 
 
 " The men in agricultural pursuits, fishing, &c. ; the 
 women in the manufacture of cloth, mats, baskets, combs,
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 255 
 
 6. "What is the social condition of the people of these 
 islands?" 
 
 " They have abundance of the necessaries of life, but are 
 generally destitute of the comforts of civilization. Commerce, 
 however, in its incipient state is springing up among them, and 
 many are thereby possessing themselves of superior clothing, 
 and other comforts. All our teachers, leaders, &c., are expected 
 to attend the public worship decently clothed, which they do; 
 the men generally with shirts in addition to their native dress, 
 and the women with pinafores. Many of the people imitate 
 their example." 
 
 7. " Describe the domestic circle, and say how far relative 
 duties are performed." 
 
 " In their former condition they could hardly be said to have 
 any domestic circle. Their habits were of the most loose 
 description ; and though matrimonial engagements were recog- 
 nised, yet, generally, they herded together promiscuously. At 
 present, however, very few married couples could be found 
 who have not a home to themselves, in which family worship 
 is regularly performed. When they have families they generally 
 endeavour to collect them together to this duty, though in 
 reference to the elder children it is frequently with but little 
 success. Many of the young people get into the habit of 
 sleeping about in companies, a company of young girls in one 
 house, a company of young men in another, though very 
 rarely, if ever, in mixed companies. Generally, the parents 
 manifest great affection for their children, and, in fact, injure 
 them by mistaken kindness: as a matter of course, they lose 
 their influence over them, and the children for the most part 
 grow up undutiful and rebellious." 
 
 8. " Have you discovered any traditions among the people 
 corresponding in any degree with Scriptural facts'?" 
 
 " Their account of the original number of their gods seems 
 to bear some resemblance to the doctrine of the Trinity. 
 Maui, the principal god, was from the beginning: with him 
 there was a female god, called Malikula. From these pro-
 
 256 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 ceeded Hikuleo, the original occupant of Bulotu, the Olympus 
 of the Tongan deities." 
 
 9. "How do the people generally speak of their former con- 
 dition as heathens?" 
 
 "As a time of fearful ignorance and darkness, the bare men- 
 tion of which will frequently draw tears from the eyes of the 
 better class among them; but from which they rejoice to have 
 been delivered through the light of the glorious Gospel of the 
 blessed God." 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 DEPARTURE from Vavau Vampyre-bat Introduction of Christianity 
 into Vavau Revival in 1834 Prevalence of the Wesleyans Church- 
 members Revival in 1846 Contributions Introduction of Popery 
 Character of the people Diseases Tradition Review of the work 
 Sabbath observance Family worship Love of the Scriptures 
 Civilization King George. 
 
 AFTER parting with my very kind friends Mr. and Mrs. 
 Daniel, I went on board the "John Wesley" at daybreak, on 
 the 3d of November, and observed a vampyre-bat hastening 
 away from the light. Its wings were large, and its body ap- 
 peared as if allied to both the rat and the fox. Indeed, in the 
 Friendly Islands it is called the flying-fox. Its flesh is said 
 to be very delicious. About 6 o'clock we got under weigh for 
 Feejee, and were favoured with a fine breeze. 
 
 I felt some regret that I had not been able to visit the 
 Haabai group ; but my limited time, together with the difficulty 
 and danger of reaching it, arising from the numerous reefs 
 with which it is surrounded, prevented me. I received, how-
 
 TUB SOUTHERN WOULD. 257 
 
 ever, from the Rev. Matthew Wilson, who had for a consider- 
 able time laboured there, and who had but just left the station, 
 some important information respecting the Mission in that 
 group. 
 
 Having got safely out of the bay, and being favoured with 
 suitable weather, I was able to write, and placed on record the 
 following additional particulars respecting the interesting 
 islands I had just left, and which I had proved to be "Friendly 
 Islands" indeed. 
 
 The introduction of Christianity into Vavau is instructive. 
 Mr. Cross, the first Missionary to that island, arrived there in 
 1832. But previously to that, a few individuals belonging to 
 that group, when on a visit to Haabai and Tonga, had been 
 convinced of the truth of Christianity, and had begun to act 
 accordingly. Finau, the King of Yavau, sent for them into 
 his presence, commanded them to give up their lotu, or leave 
 the group ; and threatened those with death who should oppose 
 his will* Some yielded to fear; but others gave up their 
 country and their possessions rather than the truth they had 
 received, and went to reside at Haabai and Tonga. In 1831 
 there was a feast at Vavau, and George, King of Haabai, and 
 his people, were invited to attend. Messrs. Thomas and P. 
 Turner thought this a favourable opportunity of writing to 
 Finau, and accordingly they sent a letter, requesting the King 
 of Vavau to receive a Missionary to instruct his people. George 
 urged the request of the Missionaries; to which Finau, after 
 some hesitation, acceded. This point being gained, George 
 pressed him at once to become a Christian, as he might be 
 dead before a Missionary could arrive. Finau listened, con- 
 sidered, and at length consented to bow before the Lord. He 
 did so ; and as soon as it became known, hundreds of the people, 
 upon whose minds some rays of light from Haabai and Tonga 
 had fallen, cast off their allegiance to the Prince of darkness, and 
 also bowed before the Most High. George and his attendants, 
 meantime, were busily employed in teaching the people ; and in 
 the overflowings of their zeal it cannot be much marvel that 
 they were led into some excesses. They proceeded to Makave,
 
 258 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 where one of the principal god-houses stood, and the priest, 
 expecting to have a fine root of kava, went into the god-house, 
 where he began his incantations, and became, as the saying 
 was, possessed of the god. George could bear the imposition 
 no longer : he rose, sprang forward, seized the practised 
 hypocrite, gave him a thorough good shaking, and said, " You 
 old deceiver, cease your deception, or I will lay my stick across 
 your back!" The poor priest was astounded, and escaped to 
 his house, where he exclaimed, " Taufauhau and his people 
 have come to insult the great god of our fathers!" Some of 
 the stout-hearted of the heathens came running with their 
 clubs ; but when they saw George, they were afraid, and stood 
 at a distance uttering their wrath in bitter imprecations. The 
 King and his followers now went into the temple, dragged the 
 god from its resting-place, and, having disrobed it, they 
 exhibited to the gaze of the multitude a whale's tooth as the 
 idol they had feared and worshipped ! Nor was this all. They 
 applied fire to the idol-temple, and during the day proceeded 
 in their career of devastation, until fifteen heathen temples 
 were in a blaze, filling some parties with fear and trembling, 
 and causing others to shout aloud for joy. Teachers were now 
 in great request ; and, at the desire of Finau, George left two 
 on his departure to Haabai. Their number was soon increased ; 
 and Mr. Cross, after having been shipwrecked, and losing his 
 devoted wife on that most disastrous occasion, reached Vavau 
 in 1832. Finau was baptized Zephaniah, but died the follow- 
 ing year, leaving the Vavau group to King George, who was his 
 nearest relative. The King took under his care the children of 
 the deceased Chieftain, and has been to them a father ever since. 
 In 1834 there was a great revival of religion in Vavau. 
 The Eev. Peter Turner, in a communication to myself on this 
 deeply interesting subject, says, " On my arrival in Vavau, in 
 1832, the people had, by hundreds, renounced the gods of 
 their fathers, and were earnestly thirsting for knowledge; but 
 very few of them had clear views of the work of the Holy 
 Spirit in renewing the heart. On this subject my mind dwelt 
 much; and, having stated my views to the leaders and local-
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 259 
 
 preachers, we resolved to set apart a portion of every day 
 specially to pray for the outpourings of the Holy Ghost, and 
 the people soon became very anxious for the blessing. At 
 length prayer was heard; the blessing came; and it so far 
 surpassed anything of which we had ever heard or read, that 
 we thought the grand millennium was come. The work was 
 rapid; and in a few weeks hundreds were brought to God. In 
 about a month, in the Vavau group alone, 1,200 persons gave 
 scriptural evidence of true conversion. Several coming in a 
 canoe from Haabai caught the gracious influence, and returned 
 to carry the good news. King George sent a message by them 
 to the people, desiring them to give up their employment for 
 a season, until they had earnestly sought the Lord and his 
 salvation. This he had desired the people in Vavau to do. 
 He said, ' Now is the day of salvation, and God is waiting to 
 save you. Come to the meetings, and seek the blessing. 
 What is the worth of worldly things compared with that of 
 saving the soul ! Let us therefore give up our worldly busi- 
 ness, and for a week or two let your souls have your undivided 
 attention.' This was done; and the people seemed quite con- 
 tent if they obtained but one meal in the day. Meetings were 
 multiplied, showers of blessing descended, and the people 
 became simple, humble, teachable. Although I was alone most 
 of the time, and had to go through the whole group, attending 
 the meetings, and instructing the people, yet there were fewer 
 extravagances than there would have been under the same 
 degree of excitement in my native land. But the work was 
 of God, and he moulded the people according to his will. The 
 results of this revival were, religion was realized and enjoyed, 
 and the church was saved from a dead formality. The people 
 now understand the Gospel, look for its blessings, and many 
 have lived and died in the possession of entire sanctification. 
 The churches in the Friendly Islands will bear comparison 
 with any churches in the world for simplicity, zeal, and 
 holiness. The Minister of Christ has great satisfaction with 
 his people, and may be very happy indeed in his ministrations 
 amongst them."
 
 260 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 In 1846 the islands had another gracious visitation. "For 
 some time previous," observes Mr. Wilson, " our local-preachers, 
 leaders, and some of our members had been manifestly growing 
 in grace. The spirit of piety had been deepening and spreading 
 for two or three months, and all our services were characterized 
 by a devout and solemn feeling. This was particularly the case 
 at a prayer-meeting held with the local-preachers and leaders 
 once a week. At one of those meetings the presence of God 
 was signally manifested ; soon after which, some of the local- 
 preachers and members had to go to Vavau, and whilst there 
 the revival began. On their return to Hihifo, in Tonga, a 
 similar work commenced there also. The first public service 
 we had went on as usual for a while, when, in a moment, the 
 most solemn awe peryaded the place, and then in a few minutes 
 the crowded chapel became filled with suppressed sighs and 
 groans. There was no great confusion, and nothing could be 
 done for a time, by way of singing or speaking. God was all 
 and in all. Glory be to his name ! The general character of 
 the revival bore the impress of reverential awe. The presence 
 of God so filled the fort, that on several occasions, when a 
 number of Chiefs met together for the transaction of business, 
 they were unable to proceed, and obliged by an influence from 
 above to change the meeting for business into a meeting for 
 prayer. The results of the revival were glorious; sinners of 
 almost all grades and ages were converted; and numbers of 
 church-members, who had been living in a low state of grace, 
 were quickened and saved; others were 'sanctified wholly,' and 
 lived and died in possession of that great blessing. Some of 
 the worst characters in the place were brought to God, and 
 are now amongst our most devoted and useful Christians. 
 Several of them are local-preachers; have been two years in 
 the Training Institution; and have now charge of schools in 
 different parts of the group. The revival produced a change 
 in many of the ruling Chiefs, which has ever since exerted a 
 blessed moral influence upon the people. Indeed, it improved 
 all classes, husbands, wives, children, Chiefs, people, leaders, 
 members, and Preachers; and such have been the results of all
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 261 
 
 the revivals I have seen or heard of in the Friendly Islands. 
 In Feejee there are many devoted native teachers, most of 
 whom were brought to God in revivals. I have a list of the 
 names of 30 men who have gone from the Friendly Islands to 
 Feejee. Some of them have returned, others have died joy- 
 fully in the work; and 20 are still there, nobly labouring for 
 the salvation of souls. He who furnished me with a list of the 
 names is one of them. He is a 'wonder to many,' and was 
 converted in the glorious revival which, in 1834, took place at 
 Vavau. That revival is noiu telling upon Feejee, and will tell 
 as long as Feejee exists." 
 
 The introduction of Popery into the islands is regarded as a 
 great misfortune. It was introduced into Tongatabu in 1842. 
 A Romish Bishop succeeded in leaving two Priests here, the 
 Missionaries at the time being away at their District-Meeting, 
 and the old King, altogether unsuspecting, allowed them to 
 come and remain. Their aim, from the beginning, \vas to 
 find out those heathen Chiefs who were most opposed to the 
 King; and two of that class first received them. In the 
 year 1849, they, by craft, promises of preferment, and assist- 
 ance from France, persuaded a very influential Chief to embrace 
 Popery, telling him that King George was an usurper, (a thing 
 which they had repeatedly said to our Missionaries,) and that 
 he and not George ought to rule, and should rule. They also 
 told the Chief that if he would embrace Popery, so would 
 all his people; but, to his great annoyance, he found very few 
 indeed willing to follow in his steps, and many were so offended 
 with his conduct that they left him. An old blind Chief, whom 
 he pressed to go with him and embrace Popery, replied, " It is 
 no use my being of that religion, and going to that chapel. 
 I cannot see the images set up to worship." The natives 
 compare Popery to the cuttle-fish, because of the fast hold 
 which it takes, and of its changing colour, and adapting 
 itself to circumstances. The Sabbath on which the Chief 
 above referred to made a public profession of Popery, by 
 attending the popish place of worship, the Priest told him 
 and his associates, that they must all give up their heathen
 
 262 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 dances. After the service, the Chief firmly declared they 
 would not give them up. At the evening service, therefore, 
 of the same day, the Priest informed his auditory that, as God 
 had made man to enjoy himself, there was no need for them 
 to give up their dances, unless they were quite willing to 
 do so. The natives observed this, and exclaimed, " The 
 cuttle-fish!" Several of the more enlightened of the Papists 
 having often asked the Priest why he did not teach them to 
 read, and let them have books like our church, he constantly 
 replied that he was their school and book, and would 
 teach them all that it was needful for them to know. But 
 this not being satisfactory, they told him that unless they had 
 books, and were taught to read, they would come to our 
 church. On hearing this he prepared a small elementary book 
 and sent it to Wallis's Island to be printed. When the book 
 came, a, kind of school was begun; on seeing which, the natives 
 exclaimed, "What! the Feke again!" that is, the cuttle-fish 
 again ! The natives say, from what they have heard and seen 
 of Popery, it is like their Heathenism, in its legends, cruelties, 
 lies, image-worship, the influence of its Priests over the minds 
 of the people, and their pretended power to curse and bless. 
 I should think that the number of Papists never amounted to 
 above 300 in Tongatabu, and since the war their number is 
 greatly diminished; for the natives see most clearly that the 
 Priests have led them astray, both with respect to the truth 
 itself, and the promise of help from France in case of war. 
 
 No Protestant church save our own has Missionaries in the 
 country, and, with the exception of a very few in Tongatabu 
 who have embraced Popery, and a small , remnant of pagans in 
 the same locality, the Wesleyans may be considered as having 
 more or less influenced the whole population ; and if they have 
 not been able to conduct all to the feet of the Redeemer, and 
 to the enjoyment of salvation, they have, by the blessing of God, 
 rescued them from Heathenism and its accompanying vices, 
 and furnished them with an amount of Scriptural knowledge 
 which, it is hoped, may result in saving conversation, and in 
 their entire devotedness to God.
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 263 
 
 In speaking of the religious character of our church-members, 
 Mr. Wilson, who has laboured many years very successfully 
 in the islands, in a letter with which he kindly favoured me, 
 says, "Of those we regard as church-members, I can speak 
 favourably. Generally they adorn their Christian profession by 
 an upright life, discharging in a proper spirit the moral and 
 religious duties that devolve upon them. They attend regu- 
 larly to private and family prayer, read the Scriptures daily, 
 and are punctually found in the house of God. They also 
 diligently engage in their respective callings, love those who 
 labour among them in the word and doctrine, and honour the 
 King and Chiefs. We have some eminent Christians, yet 
 there are those who have but the form of godliness, and act 
 accordingly." 
 
 On the subject of the people supporting their Ministers, Mr. 
 Wilson says : " In a few years, I think, they will be able to 
 support, in addition to the requisite number of native agents, 
 six European Missionaries, with their families, indeed they 
 are able now. A great error was committed some years' ago, by 
 making the erroneous impression that the natives were to 
 contribute only one yam quarterly, which would be about a 
 penny in value, or hardly that; and it was some time before 
 they could be persuaded to do anything more. ^ I have often 
 regretted that this scriptural duty was not brought before 
 them at a much earlier period. Look at the expense of 
 Heathenism ! One of their gods, Uikitubu, would not drink his 
 kava unless he had 100 pigs killed at the time! The Romish 
 Priests, from the very first, have taught the people that it is 
 their duty to support them." The King and his Chiefs now 
 give hope of a better observance of this Christian duty, which 
 hope, I doubt not, will soon be realized, and the churches in 
 these islands found supporting all their Ministers. 
 
 The Friendly Islanders are a fine race; in person superior 
 to any of the South Sea Aborigines that I have yet seen; in 
 stature above mediocrity, and some of them handsome-looking 
 men. In their natural disposition they are said to be proud, 
 selfish, courageous, and more inclined to indolence than labour.
 
 264 THE SOUTHERN WOULD. 
 
 As a people, thejje has existed among them the custom of 
 many eating together, and of feeding strangers, and this has 
 made them appear to some as a most kind and friendly 
 people, whereas it was the force of custom only. Formerly, 
 it was thought one of the greatest insults that one person 
 could offer to another who might visit him at meal-time not 
 to request him to partake of the provisions, an insult which 
 might expose the party offering it to the blow of the club. "I 
 have heard," says Mr. Wilson, "many individuals say, that fre- 
 quently have they given their food to others, with the greatest 
 appearance of friendship and good-will, when in their hearts 
 they could have stabbed them. Grace, however, has produced 
 a change in multitudes; and they not only appear kind and 
 friendly, but are really so; and what they do is done without 
 guile, and from the heart. But still, among the inhabitants of 
 these islands, though no longer heathens, there are many 
 without the saving power of the Gospel, who are consequently 
 without this fruit of the Spirit. The indolence of the people 
 is not to be wondered at, when it is remembered that the Chiefs 
 might go into any of their houses, and take what they pleased. 
 Law now prevents that, and thus furnishes a motive to labour, 
 diligence, and improvement; and I know many persons mem- 
 bers of our church who are diligent in business, fervent in 
 spirit, serving the Lord." 
 
 The people have very tenacious memories, and some of them 
 can report with ease large portions of the Scriptures. One 
 man, a cripple, previous to his conversion often raved like a 
 madman; but, such was the change wrought by the grace of 
 God, that one of our Missionaries, on returning from visiting 
 him, remarked, "Why, that man has heaven in his counte- 
 nance ! " Religion had found its way to his hut, his bed, his 
 heart. After his conversion he read the word of God most 
 diligently and attentively. In a fortnight he committed to 
 memory the whole of Galatians. Then, in three weeks, he 
 learned Ephesians; and, in three weeks more, finished Philip- 
 pians. Besides this, he got by heart the first of Thessalonians, 
 and used to repeat what he had so learned, a book at a time.
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 265 
 
 Mrs. Wilson sometimes sent him his dinner; and on one 
 occasion, when the girl took it to him, she said, "Have you 
 had anything to eat to-day 1 " He replied in the affirmative. 
 "What have you had?" inquired the girl. "Had?" said he, 
 " I have eaten the whole of the Corinthians." 
 
 The prevalent diseases of the country, according to the 
 testimony of the Rev. G. H. Miller, formerly in practice as a 
 surgeon in the Friendly Islands, now a Missionary,* the most 
 prevalent diseases among the people are, consumption, dys- 
 entery, diarrhoea, king's evil, elephantiasis, intermittent fevers, 
 ophthalmia and several other affections of the eye. An ulcerated 
 disease, termed by the people bala, gravel and stone, rheu- 
 matism, influenza, the mumps which only appeared lately, 
 together with several cutaneous diseases, and the tona an 
 eruptive, complaint. The climate, considering the tropical 
 position of the islands, is certainly not unhealthy; but, at the 
 same time, it is very debilitating to an European constitution, 
 and, I am told, depressing to the mind. 
 
 The traditions as to the origin of the islands, and their 
 inhabitants, are various. One tradition says that a god or 
 spirit called Ma^li, while fishing, drew up the Island of 
 Tongatabu with a fish-hook ; that a hen, afterwards, with her 
 feet separated the earth, so as to form the two groups of 
 Haabai and Vavau ; and that a species of vine called fue grew 
 on Tonga, from a portion of which, decaying, larvae were 
 generated, that grew into men, and thus the islands became 
 peopled ! The tradition is certainly not very complimentary 
 to the human race, but of course obtains no credence since 
 the light of truth shone upon the land. This and other 
 similar traditions are now treated with ridicule, or spoken of 
 with humiliation, as indicating the depth of former darkness. 
 
 4cth. To-day, being at leisure, I further reviewed the 
 
 great work which had been accomplished in a comparatively 
 
 short period of time in the islands I had just left. Not until 
 
 1827 had any of the people been baptized into the Christian 
 
 faith, but were involved in the darkness of paganism, and under 
 
 Since this entry was made, Mr. Miller has died. 
 
 N
 
 266 THE SOUTHERN WOULD. 
 
 the influence of its withering superstitions. After that period, 
 however, the ministry of the word became effective; and in 
 1834 the Spirit was poured out in a most remarkable manner, 
 as already stated, changing the hearts of multitudes, and 
 giving an entirely new phase to their character and proceed- 
 ings. Since then the work has spread, and with the exception 
 of a very few heathens the whole population has embraced 
 Christianity. It is true that all have not been savingly con- 
 verted; neither do they observe all the obligations of the 
 Christian religion: but 7,000 are accredited members of the 
 Wesleyan church; 7,279 children and adults, in 185 schools, 
 are receiving education ; 8,000 of the people, at least, can read, 
 and many more are learning to do so; whilst 5,000 can also 
 write and in many cases even elegantly. Throughout the 
 islands the Wesleyans have 109 chapels, 527 local-preachers, 
 and several catechists, and other native agents. 
 
 If parties who visit these islands find any of the natives 
 acting contrary to the Christian character, and, concluding that 
 they are a fair specimen of the whole, report that little or no 
 good has been effected by Missionary operations, they are guilty, 
 undoubtedly, of a great injustice, not only to the Missionaries, 
 but also to the natives. As well might a visitor to the shores 
 of England who happens to fall into the hands of an extortioner 
 or pickpocket, or who becomes entangled in some of the many 
 snares deeply laid for man's ruin, conclude that in England 
 religion is an entire failure, and that Christianity has done no 
 good to its population. People seem to forget that, though the 
 natives of the Friendly Isles have renounced idolatry, and 
 embraced Christianity as a system of truth, they have not all 
 felt its saving power, any more, perhaps, than the majority of 
 the people constituting the Christian nations of the world have 
 felt it. Men should not expect, in the one case any more 
 than in the other, to gather grapes of thorns, or figs of 
 thistles. Shall the gold be overlooked, and the dross only 
 engage the attention ? Shall the pure and precious wheat be 
 forgotten, and the chaff only be remembered and spoken of? 
 In a work recently published, entitled " Omoo, a Narrative
 
 THE SOUTHEBN WOKLD. 267 
 
 of Adventures in the South Seas," the author seeks to invalidate 
 the testimony of Christian Missionaries in relation to the work 
 of God in the isles of the Pacific, and would have the reader 
 to believe that the Christian public, being extremely credulous, 
 have been deceived by what Missionaries have written. And 
 certainly, after his own admissions relative to himself and his 
 avowed notions of religion, he must think the Christian public 
 credulous indeed if they receive for one moment the testimony 
 of a self-convicted sailor, who glories in his shame, in opposition 
 to the testimony of honourable and devoted men who have 
 hazarded their lives in the cause of humanity and religion, and 
 whose praise is in all the churches. The fact is, that sailors of 
 irregular habits, finding that they cannot, as formerly, indulge 
 their evil propensities amongst the South Sea Islanders, and 
 being aware that the altered state of society is the result of 
 Missionary labour, cordially hate those men who have interfered 
 with their sensual pleasures, and evince their enmity by mis- 
 representation and slander. This, I believe, will explain much 
 that has been said and written in depreciation of Christian 
 Missions in the isles of the great Pacific. 
 
 The whole population of the Friendly Islands have been 
 more or less benefited by the introduction of Christianity : even 
 those who have not submitted to its saving power have, never- 
 theless, felt its restraining influence, and in point of scriptural 
 knowledge, and outward morals, would in general appear to 
 advantage if placed in contrast with the same class of persons 
 in either England or America. Thousands have become 
 the partakers of its renovating influence, and heavenly 
 consolations, and can give a consistent account of the 
 work of grace in the heart. A few things worthy of 
 notice greatly impressed my mind during my visit to these 
 islands. 
 
 The reverence for the Sabbath. This is very apparent. Never 
 had I previously observed such respect paid to the Sabbath of 
 the Lord. The day appears to be exclusively devoted to 
 religious services, and nothing meets the eye or ear infringing 
 upon the sanctity of that blessed day, but everywhere incense 
 
 N 2
 
 268 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 and a pure offering seem to be presented to the Lord of 
 Hosts. If the people are beheld coming from their habitations, 
 it is that they may go up to the house of the Lord, and 
 inquire in his holy temple. If a canoe is seen in the offing, it 
 is conveying a local-preacher to his appointment on some 
 distant island, that he may preach unto the people Jesus. If 
 noises occasionally fall upon the ear, they are not those of 
 revelry and strife, but of holy praise and fervent prayer going 
 up to heaven. 
 
 Attention of the people to Family-worship. This is very 
 marked, and is observed, not only by the members of our 
 church, but by others, there being very few, if any families 
 bearing the Christian name in these islands, who have not a 
 domestic altar, and the morning and evening sacrifice presented 
 thereon. It is truly exhilarating to be in any of their towns 
 or villages at the hour of family-worship. I have been so 
 privileged; and, as I listened to prayer and praise ascending 
 from nearly every dwelling, my heart was filled with the 
 deepest emotion, and my spirit felt as if at the gate of 
 heaven. 
 
 The high estimation in which the Scriptures are held. This 
 too is very prominent; and the people's acquaintance with the 
 truth of God familiar and extensive. Multitudes of them 
 delight in the law of the Lord, and in that law they meditate 
 both day and night. When observing the eagerness evinced 
 for copies of the Scripture, and the zest with which they were 
 perused, I was forcibly reminded of the words of Jeremiah : 
 " Thy word was found, and I did eat it; and thy word was to 
 me the joy and rejoicing of my heart." 
 
 It was my privilege to convey to the Friendly Islands a 
 munificent donation from the British and Foreign Bible 
 Society of a large edition of the New Testament Scriptures; 
 and on my arrival in Tonga it was no sooner known that 
 " The Book " had arrived, than the delight of the people 
 became manifest, and appeared in various ways. In their 
 prayer-meetings, in their family-worship, and in the public 
 services of the sanctuary, they, with hearts overflowing with
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 269 
 
 gratitude and joy, most emphatically thanked God for " THE 
 BOOK." 
 
 Most of those, however, who visit the islands will be disap- 
 pointed as to the people's progress in civilization. Men in- 
 fluenced by European notions of civilization will look for 
 something they will not find, and probably return greatly dis- 
 satisfied. If Yorkshire broadcloth, or Lancashire calico, be 
 essential ingredients in civilization, then are the Friendly 
 Islanders not civilized, as they have nothing of the former, and 
 not much of the latter. The absence of these things disap- 
 points the Christian visitor, shocks his sense of propriety, and 
 leads the mere men of the world, who look more at broadcloth 
 and calico than at the fruits of the Spirit, to speak unfavourably 
 of the results of Missionary labour. But let us fairly look at 
 the subject. The scanty covering of native cloth which the 
 people wear is well adapted to the climate, and much more 
 comfortable than European clothing, even of the lightest 
 texture. Nor does it appear to them at all wanting in delicacy ; 
 indeed it is less so than some forms of European attire. Besides, 
 if the natives had desired the English costume ever so ardently, 
 they have not been in circumstances to obtain it. They 
 had no trade until lately, and it is still exceedingly limited. 
 Not a vessel, save the " John Wesley," has entered the harbour 
 of Vavau for the last eighteen months. Nor have many of 
 those who have obtained the English costume, especially females, 
 thereby improved their personal appearance. On the contrary, 
 their long-peaked bonnets, and short-waist dresses, introduced, 
 no doubt, by some pious lady of antiquated notions, and which 
 seem to have fallen upon their persons by mere accident, rather 
 than to have been placed there by design, render them truly 
 frightful, and certainly will not be very likely to tempt the 
 young people to copy their example. In some places, however, 
 a better taste is being shown. But if the apparel of the people 
 has not as yet reached the standard of European civilization, 
 some progress is being made in that direction, and in many 
 other respects they are undoubtedly civilized. This will clearly 
 appear by contrasting their present with their former condition.
 
 270 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 A Christian Government is now established, and although not 
 so perfect as might be desired, it is nevertheless far in advance 
 of their former club-law, and dark superstitions, to which the 
 people were subject, and has already produced beneficial results. 
 Personal rights are now acknowledged and protected. What 
 a man possesses is not, as formerly, liable to be taken from him 
 by a covetous or capricious Chief. Judges are appointed, and 
 no man is punished without trial. The King may alter the 
 sentence of the Judges, but only on the ground of clemency : 
 he may mitigate, not increase its severity. Some of the laws 
 are quaint, and others crude; but the code, as a whole, is 
 deeply interesting, not only as showing the first attempt at 
 Christian legislation by a people who had but just emerged 
 from a state of barbarism, but also as denouncing moral trans- 
 gression in unequivocal terms. [Note 6?.] 
 
 Industry is promoted. Men who will not work, are not, as 
 formerly, to be fed; and although the climate is relaxing, and 
 the soil so productive of the necessary food that but little 
 exertion is required to supply the wants of a family, yet many 
 of the men are becoming increasingly diligent in attending to 
 their plantations ; and the women making the tapa, or native 
 cloth, frequently work long hours, and put forth considerable 
 bodily exertion. 
 
 Commerce is advancing. In the space of the last six months, 
 in the Haabai group, the natives sold to one person upwards 
 of 30 tons of oil. Four merchants have recently come to the 
 group, and some hundreds of pounds worth of hardware is 
 being circulated among the people, such as iron pots, hatchets, 
 knives, razors, spades, &c., with a quantity of scissors, thimbles, 
 needles, pins, and other articles used by females. Horses and 
 cattle were brought to them when they were in their heathen 
 state, but they destroyed them; now, however, they possess 
 them, with sheep and goats; together with improved houses 
 with doors and windows, furniture, crockery, &c. ; their noble 
 King taking the lead in all points of advancement. 
 
 War is less frequent and sanguinary. The people formerly 
 delighted in war; not so now: and, when necessitated to take
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 271 
 
 up arms, they have distinctly shown the influence of Christianity, 
 in its restraining them from acts of wanton cruelty. The recent 
 rebellion in Tonga, originating with the heathen, was met in a 
 Christian spirit, as we have already seen, and dealt with in the 
 most noble and magnanimous manner. The King would not 
 suffer life to be taken ; and, by a highly enlightened policy, in 
 perfect accordance with Christianity, he thoroughly conquered 
 his enemies without shedding their blood! George not 
 civilized ! then he is a barbarian who appears to great advan- 
 tage when contrasted with some warriors of the most civilized 
 nations in either ancient or modern times. 
 
 The Friendly Islanders, as a nation, though not perfect, and 
 still in a transition state, will yet, in point of truthfulness, 
 honesty, hospitality, temperance, and chastity, appear to much 
 advantage when compared with some of the most enlightened 
 and polite nations of the world. Had they more intercourse with 
 those nations, it would probably call out their exertions, and 
 produce a change in their social condition; yet, judging from 
 what has elsewhere occurred, I greatly fear its pernicious influ- 
 ence upon the religion and morals of the people, especially 
 should it, as in Feejee, lead to the introduction of ardent spirits. 
 More intercourse with civilized people, however, they must soon 
 have. In the present state of the Southern World that is in- 
 evitable. King George is aware of this, and in his visit to 
 New South Wales he is anxious to open such intercourse 
 with that colony as may contribute to the social advantage of his 
 people, without seriously endangering their moral and religious 
 character. He intends to promote the cultivation of sugar, 
 coffee, cotton, and yams, for the Australian market, and to 
 prepare a much larger quantity of cocoa-nut oil for exportation 
 than his beautiful islands have hitherto produced. 
 
 These islands were formerly under three distinct govern- 
 ments. Alea Motua, afterwards baptized by the name of Josiah, 
 reigned over the Tonga group. Finau, afterwards named 
 Zephaniah, over the Vavau group; and TaufauJiau, who 
 subsequently received the Christian name of George, over 
 the Haabai group. Josiah and Zephaniah have long since
 
 272 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 been numbered with the dead; but, before departing this life, 
 they acknowledged George as their lawful heir, and resigned 
 their lands and people to him as their legitimate successor. 
 Upon his accession to the throne of Tonga he was, with 
 much ceremony, on the 4th of December, 1845, dignified with 
 the title of Tui Kanokubolu, which title (it is said) agrees 
 with that of Emperor. Thus by heritage, as well as by the 
 general consent of the people, George occupies the throne of 
 his fathers; and, as a Christian King, reigns over an improving 
 and happy people. 
 
 Before the present Sovereign embraced Christianity, he was 
 a most daring and sanguinary warrior. While quite a youth, 
 he gave a public challenge at a kava-party to any one to meet 
 him in single combat with an instrument made from the 
 middle part of the cocoa nut leaf. The challenge was accepted ; 
 but the bold stripling soon fractured the arms of his antagonist, 
 and, according to the notions of the people, covered himself 
 with glory. 
 
 One of his brothers having embraced Christianity, Taufauhau 
 requested him on a Lord's-day to bring down his canoe to the 
 sea, and make it quite ready for sailing. Laujii, the brother, 
 replied to the message, that he had learned in Tonga that this 
 day was the Sabbath, and must be kept sacred; therefore, he 
 could not now attend to his canoe. This was enough for 
 Taufauhau : he felt himself insulted, not only because his com- 
 mand was disobeyed, but because, in a manner contrary to 
 Tongese etiquette, his brother had dared to take precedence 
 of him in introducing a new thing into Haabai. Accordingly, 
 he seized his club, and set out for his brother's house. On his 
 entrance, Laujii, seeing his wrathful countenance, made his 
 exit in another direction. They ran, and it was for life! The 
 fugitive, partly savage and partly Christian, pursued by " feet" 
 which were " swift to shed blood," fled to the " place of refuge," 
 and was saved. Taufauhau stood without, enraged, brandishing 
 his club, and threatening destruction, but dared not enter the 
 sacred enclosure to accomplish his murderous design. Time 
 rolled on; Taufauhau became a Christian; the love of God was
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 273 
 
 shed abroad in his heart by the Holy Ghost given unto him; 
 and, on meeting this same brother, he fell upon his neck, and, 
 in the presence of the Missionary and many people, pressed 
 him to his throbbing and now truly fraternal bosom. 
 
 When the King was a heathen, he appears to have had little 
 respect for the priests, and not much confidence in the gods. 
 Wishing on a certain occasion to take a voyage, he asked for 
 a fine day and a favourable breeze at a particular time. The 
 priest declared that the god had granted his request. The 
 period arrived; but the wind was adverse, the sea raging, and 
 the gale so severe that it was impossible to leave the shore. 
 He was very angry, and, going to the priest, inflicted upon him 
 a fearful chastisement, and then boldly defied both him and 
 his gods to take reprisals for the indignity. 
 
 But a new era in the history of this remarkable man was at 
 hand. The light of truth dawned upon his mind; he renounced 
 idolatry; and in 1830, after suitable instruction and a 
 lengthened probation, he was baptized by our greatly honoured 
 Missionary, the Rev. John Thomas, and became a member of 
 the Methodist church. 
 
 Whilst a heathen, George lived according to the custom of 
 the country. But when he had embraced Christianity he de- 
 sired to act according to its precepts ; and therefore sought an 
 honourable alliance with one who should legitimately share the 
 affections of his heart, and the honours of his throne. The 
 object of his choice was found in Tonga. Her name was Lube, 
 which signifies " dove ;" and, as she was descended from 
 families connected with the priesthood, her rank was high. 
 She was, moreover, reputed to be the most handsome woman 
 in the Friendly Islands. The King brought her to Haabai in 
 his canoe; and then, as the Sovereign of a nation unfettered 
 by the laws or usages of civilized society, he acted, with cha- 
 racteristic promptitude, in the following manner. One morning, 
 before the first rays of the sun had gilded the horizon, he 
 sallied forth to speak to the Missionary. He approached the 
 outer gate; but, finding it closed, climbed over it, and so 
 reached the door of the house. He succeeded in rousing the 
 
 N 5
 
 274 THE SOUTHERN WOULD. 
 
 good man, who was greatly surprised by a visit from royalty at 
 such an hour, as he knew nothing of the intended wedding. 
 The King soon informed him that he wished to be married 
 that very morning, in as private a manner as possible. Mr. 
 Watkin, well knowing the importance of this step in its bearing 
 upon the true interests of the King and the natives, hastened 
 to his colleague, Mr. Tucker, to report the joyful news. It 
 was during the twilight of the morning that the two Mission- 
 aries were wending their way to the chapel There they met 
 with the royal pair, and a few other persons, when, in this 
 unostentatious way, the marriage ceremony was performed. 
 This wedding was followed by that of several of the young 
 Chiefs of Haabai, who were influenced by the example of the 
 King. The Queen was shortly after baptized, when she received 
 the Christian name of Charlotte. 
 
 But as yet George had not fully realized the saving power 
 of the Gospel. He had abandoned heathenism, and been a 
 terror to " the gods of the earth :" yet, although he had 
 embraced Christianity as a system of truth, and become its 
 warm advocate, it does not appear that until 1834 he enjoyed 
 the liberty wherewith Christ makes his people free. Several 
 other persons were in like circumstances; and the few who had 
 believed to the saving of their souls agreed with their Mis- 
 sionary at Vavau to set apart a portion of every day to pray 
 for the visitation of the Spirit. They had not long attended 
 to this important service before they gloriously prevailed with 
 God. The Holy Ghost descended; hearts were broken; and 
 mountains flowed down at the presence of the Lord. In a short 
 time thousands were saved, among whom were King George 
 and Queen Charlotte. George was at Vavau when this work 
 commenced. He saw the whole congregation bowed before the 
 Lord, and in great agony of mind confessing their sins. There 
 were his warriors, old men, strong men, men of renown, who 
 had never quailed before the enemy, now trembling, weeping, 
 smiting upon their breasts, and earnestly crying for mercy. 
 The King looked on with displeasure in his heart, despising 
 the men for what appeared to him their weakness, and left the
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 275 
 
 chapel unsubdued. But prayer was made to God in his behalf. 
 Again the congregation assembled; and the cries of penitents, 
 mingling with the triumphant notes of those who had found 
 peace with God, went up to heaven. The temple was filled 
 with glory. At length the heart of the King was softened; 
 the silent tear stole down his face ; and, yielding to a powerful 
 influence from on high, he fell prostrate at the feet of Jesus, 
 and began earnestly to cry unto the Lord in his distress. By 
 his side was the Queen, equally concerned for her soul, sobbing 
 aloud, and with a broken and contrite spirit entreating the 
 Lord to forgive and save her. What a sight ! Angels beheld 
 it, and rejoiced. The meeting was continued late ; but the 
 royal pair left without being comforted. They returned to 
 their habitation, accompanied by some of the local-preachers; 
 where they continued to plead with God till about the midnight 
 hour, when both were enabled to believe in Jesus, and take 
 hold of his salvation. It was a glorious moment. They re- 
 ceived " beauty for ashes, the oil of joy for mourning, the 
 garments of praise for the spirit of heaviness." A messenger 
 was immediately despatched to Mr. P. Turner, the Missionary, 
 that he who had sympathized in their sorrow might now par- 
 ticipate in their joy. 
 
 The subsequent proceedings of George have been highly 
 honourable to his character as a Christian King. He has con- 
 tinued the unwavering friend of the Missionaries, and the 
 fearless advocate of Christian truth. For many years he has 
 discharged, with much diligence and efficiency, the duties of a 
 class-leader, prayer-leader, and local-preacher. Although a 
 King, he does not look for any distinction in the church, but 
 cheerfully takes the appointments given him, and is to the 
 humblest of his Christian brethren a bright example of meek- 
 ness and docility. Nor will lie be induced to meddle with that 
 which he believes does not belong to him. On being asked 
 one day to express his opinion on a certain ecclesiastical 
 subject, which was occasioning some degree of solicitude to the 
 Missionaries, he promptly replied, " It is my province to govern 
 the state, not the church."
 
 276 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 When the Gospel was introduced into the Friendly Islands, 
 it found a large portion of their inhabitants in a state of 
 slavery; but, as soon as George understood that the practice 
 is contrary to the spirit and precepts of Christianity, he deter- 
 mined that in his country it should exist no longer. The Rev. 
 Charles Tucker, one of our valued Missionaries, having received 
 letters from England informing him of the measures taken by 
 Great Britain to emancipate her slaves, hastened to communi- 
 cate the joyful tidings to the King. "What!" said George, 
 "is slavery a bad thing?" Mr. Tucker replied in the affirma- 
 tive; adding, in explanation, that the holding of persons in 
 slavery is not doing to others as we would they should do unto 
 us. His Majesty answered, " Many of the Chiefs have slaves, 
 and all my servants are slaves; but they shall be free." At 
 evening twilight, Mr. Tucker heard a loud cry of distress pro- 
 ceeding from the royal residence. George had assembled his 
 servants, and, after telling them that it was not in accordance 
 with Christianity to keep them in slavery, proclaimed their 
 freedom. He had, however, been wont to treat them kindly; 
 and, instead of thanking him for their liberty, they poured 
 forth loud and affecting lamentations, and declared they would 
 not leave him. But liberty is most agreeable to human nature, 
 and they soon appreciated the King's kindness, dried up their 
 tears, began to disperse, and ultimately settled among their 
 friends. The Chiefs who held slaves followed the example of 
 the King, so that in a short time slavery was banished from 
 the Friendly Islands. 
 
 Twenty-eight years ago the islands over which George so 
 happily reigns were enveloped in pagan darkness. That dark- 
 ness is past, and the true light now shineth. A nation has 
 been born at once; and its King has become a nursing father, 
 and its Queen a nursing mother. This work, though exhibit- 
 ing some marks of human infirmity, and still requiring special 
 pastoral oversight, has seldom been equalled, and perhaps never 
 surpassed, since the days of the Apostles; and it is the belief 
 of our Missionaries that the consistent conduct and untiring 
 zeal of the King have greatly contributed, by the blessing of 
 God, to its accomplishment.
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 277 
 
 5th. We had very turbulent weather, but in the afternoon 
 sighted land. We could not, however, obtain any anchorage, 
 and had, with much inconvenience to the passengers, to heave 
 the ship to for the night. The sun was so hot during the day, 
 that an hour's exposure to it completely blistered my hands, 
 whilst I lay on the deck, sick. 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 FEEJEE Lakemba Church-meeting Joel Bulu Arrival of the 
 Mail Dinner sent by the King Native pottery Kind children 
 Another dinner sent School examination King George preaches A 
 marriage Cannibalism King of Lakemba Popish Priests foiled 
 Rotumah Departure Political Constitution Ranks Character of the 
 people Improvement Native agents Education Hindrances War 
 Considerations which sustain Missionaries Arrival at Vewa. 
 
 THE Feejee Islands are situated about 360 miles North-west 
 of the Friendly Islands, between the latitudes of 15 30' and 
 19 30' South, and the longitudes of 177 East and 178 West. 
 They comprise 154, about 100 of which are inhabited. The 
 remaining islands are occasionally resorted to by the natives 
 for the purposes of fishing, and taking beche-de-mer. There 
 are also numerous reefs and shoals. Two are large islands, 
 stretching North-east and South-west nearly throughout the 
 whole extent of the group, and are supposed to be each about 
 300 miles in circumference. 
 
 The climate of Feejee is well adapted to all the various tribes 
 of tropical plants, and to not a few of those of the temperate 
 zone ; for many of the islands being of a mountainous character, 
 numerous localities are adapted to the latter. 
 
 The population of these islands has been estimated at
 
 278 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 300,000 ; but there are circumstances which appear to warrant 
 the supposition that the number does not greatly exceed 
 200,000. 
 
 The Wesleyan Mission to this country was commenced by 
 the Revs. W. Cross, and David Cargill, A.M., in 1835, and 
 has ever since been prosecuted amid much peril, but with 
 encouraging success. 
 
 6tk. Sunday. We reached Lakemba. King George, Mr. 
 Turner, and myself, went on shore, taking nothing with us. On 
 landing, we were received by a group of nearly naked and very 
 fierce-looking natives; but on ascertaining who we were, their 
 countenances brightened, and they escorted us to the chapel, 
 where the people were assembled at their morning service. 
 The Rev. John Polglase was officiating; and though he had 
 been in Feejee but a short period, he spoke with much ease and 
 fluency in the native tongue, and, as I understood, with great 
 correctness. The chapel, a very frail and rude building, capable 
 of accommodating about 400 persons, was quite full; and 
 although we entered the chapel after Mr. Polglase had begun 
 the worship, the attention of very few seemed diverted from the 
 preacher. At the conclusion of the service, our arrival was 
 announced, and we received a warm reception, many rubbing 
 their noses upon the back of the King's hand, and giving to me 
 the more agreeable salutation of my own country. We now 
 proceeded to the Mission-House, and were most kindly received, 
 and hospitably entertained, by Mr. and Mrs. Lyth, whose praises 
 are in all our churches in Polynesia. The King dined with 
 us, appeared quite at home, and engaged to preach on the 
 following Wednesday. 
 
 Here I unexpectedly met with Mr. and Mrs. Binner, who, 
 in consequence of war, had been obliged to leave their station 
 at Ovalau ; and who communicated the painful news of the 
 murder of Varani, the celebrated Christian Chief of Vewa. 
 The aspect of affairs appeared dark; but I remembered the 
 right hand of the Most High, and the assurance given, that, 
 though the heathen might rage, and the people imagine a vain 
 thing, God has set his King upon the holy hill of Zion.
 
 TUB SOUTHERN WORLD. 279 
 
 In the afternoon, I met the members of our church in 
 Lakemba, with the view of ascertaining their attainments in 
 the knowledge of the Gospel. Many persons spoke on the 
 subject, and Mr. Lyth kindly furnished me with a translated 
 outline of a few of their statements, which upon the whole were 
 very satisfactory. The people, however, did not appear so 
 interesting to me as the Friendly Islanders. They were not 
 by any means so good-looking, nor were they so clean in either 
 their persons or their apparel. The following are specimens of 
 their statements : 
 
 Matthias. " I was a long time in the lotu without knowing its sweet- 
 ness. After a while the Lord awakened me, and I saw my danger. I 
 asked, ' What shall I do to be saved ? ' The reply was, ' Believe in the 
 Lord Jesus Christ.' The word was heard quickly, believed quickly, 
 sweet quickly. My sins were pardoned. After this I heard, ' If ye love 
 me, keep my commandments.' Then I desired to speak to the souls of 
 the Feejeeans, and was appointed to the work. My heart delights in it. I 
 hope for life eternal. ' Old things are passed away; behold, all things are 
 become new.' " 
 
 Adelaide. " I was bad, dark, weak ; but Jesus saved me. His word 
 pierced me. ' The wages of sin is death.' I heard, prayed ; and when I 
 believed, God's anger was removed away; then I was justified and saved. 
 I know that I am born of the Spirit. I see some Ministers have come to 
 us, and rejoice. I see that Christ was crucified for me, and desire to end 
 my life in his service." 
 
 Leonidas. " I am thankful, I live happy. I see that which I did not 
 see, and did not know. But I now see and know it, Christ my atone- 
 ment. I wish to hold it, and see it daily. I was a bad man, full of bad ; 
 but the atonement of Christ has crushed the bad." 
 
 Susannah. " I rejoice. The love of Jesus to me is great I do not 
 name myself a child of God. Jehovah does it, and saves me for Christ's 
 sake. I am justified through the atonement of Christ, give myself to him, 
 and <lelight to be his. I wish others to be saved, and then to die for the 
 sake of the lotu of Jesus. I know my Saviour, and when I die I shall be 
 in heaven." 
 
 " Poor outcasts of men, whose souls were despised, 
 And left with disdain, by Jesus are prized." 
 
 After this service I had an interview with Joel Bulu, one of 
 our Assistant Missionaries. He is a native of the Friendly 
 Islands ; possesses a fine, open, and intelligent countenance ; is 
 consistent in his deportment ; and a most eloquent and powerful
 
 280 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 preacher. The following account of himself he had written at 
 the request of a friend, who kindly transferred it to me : 
 
 " This tells a little about me before I lotued. 
 
 " I make known the state of my mind while I was yet under 
 the power of the devil. I was then in great fear, and wished 
 to serve that wicked spirit; for I thought in my mind that it 
 was right to serve him well, that my body might live thereby. 
 The gods which I and my parents served were Tuihaafakafauna, 
 Fakatoumafi, Taufatoa, and a great many other gods. And 
 what we did was most wonderful in the preparing of kava and 
 property. I really thought that it was a good thing, and very 
 right to reverence and serve them to the uttermost; and I 
 became the slave of the devil, just to do as he pleased with me. 
 But when I heard of the lotu, I began to reason a little; and I 
 said, ' Perhaps the lotu is true, and the devil that I serve is 
 false.' Therefore was my mind not fixed, but unsettled, and I 
 did not know what to do. 
 
 " This tells a little about my first lotu. 
 
 "Whilst I lived at Vavau, the lotu came to Haabai. At 
 that time the King at Vavau made a feast. King George 
 and the Haabai people came to it. Some of my friends also 
 came, and they exhorted me to lotu; but I said to them, 
 ' Do not talk foolishly ; be quiet, and do not make known the 
 lotu to me, for I greatly abominate it.' But this I said only 
 with my mouth, for I desired the lotu in my mind. I now 
 went to where the lotu people were residing, and embraced the 
 lotu. 
 
 " But my sorrow for sin was for a long while. I did not 
 soon find pardon, because, when I prayed for it, I did not pray 
 with a believing mind in Jesus. The day on which I heard 
 Mr. P. Turner and others speak their experience, and how they 
 were saved by faith in Jesus, was the day I believed in Jesus, 
 laid hold of him as my Saviour with the hand of my mind, 
 and there suddenly came to me very great love from heaven. 
 I knew at once in my mind that my peace was made with God, 
 through Jesus Christ. Shame had passed, and love had come, 
 sorrow was over, and joy had come, weeping had ended,
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 281 
 
 and praise had come. Praise the Lord ! Then I knew of a 
 certainty that I was saved, the Spirit made it known to this 
 my mind that I was saved. Then sprang up more love, love 
 to the Lord, love to the people, love to the Missionary, love 
 to the people who had embraced the lotu, and love to the 
 Heathen. 
 
 " Then my mind was moved with a desire to preach Jesus 
 to the people. And when I became a preaching man, I did 
 not desire to do my own mind, but at once gave up myself 
 to be guided by the Missionaries. They arranged for me to 
 come to this Feejee, the land of wars, eating of men, and 
 of all wickedness that destroys the soul. And as I knew 
 that Jesus had died for the people of Feejee, I had a desire 
 to come and make known Jesus, the Saviour of wicked 
 sinners like myself. I speak to the Lord every day. My 
 stated times for secret prayer are three times a day, and I 
 watch over myself lest there should be anything in me that 
 may offend. My desire is, to die in the work of the Lord 
 in this Feejee. As Jesus gave himself to die for the people 
 going astray, I give myself away as a sacrifice to him. I 
 am waiting for any message unto me, if it be to go to the 
 land that has the lotu, it is well ; if it be to go to the Heathen, 
 it will be well. I am looking to the rest above, that for 
 which the church on earth is preparing, and I am labouring 
 to be fully ready for it." 
 
 7th. Rose early, and went to the top of a sugar-loaf hill, 
 on which is erected a small house for invalid Missionaries. 
 If there be any breeze on the island, it is sure to be felt here. 
 The prospect from this place is extensive, embracing on the 
 one hand a view of the sea, with its numerous breakers, for 
 miles round; and on the other the sharp peaks, and fertile 
 slopes, and glens, with which the island abounds. The town, 
 if it may be so designated, contains about 200 inhabitants, 
 chiefly Tongese; but there are other towns adjoining, and 
 though distinct, yet, from their close proximation to each other, 
 they may be regarded as one. 
 
 There is no anchorage at this place, and the fearful rush of
 
 282 , THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 waters through the narrow opening in the coral reef surround- 
 ing the island, renders communication with the shore not only 
 difficult but dangerous. The "John Wesley" was "lying-to" 
 beyond the reef, and the King wishing to communicate with 
 her, sent off one of his best canoes this morning for that pur- 
 pose; but it got so greatly injured, that it must inevitably have 
 sunk had not the natives leaped overboard, and used the tapa 
 or masi they were wearing as plugging material Our Mis- 
 sionaries have to pass this dangerous place in the regular 
 working of the Lakemba Circuit, which embraces twenty-one 
 islands, some of them upwards of 100 miles distant; and those 
 excellent men are often in perils by sea, as well as in perils 
 among the Heathen. 
 
 About 10 o'clock the mail from England came on shore, and 
 sundry parcels from friends. All was excitement. The natives 
 were seen running with carpet-bags, boxes, paper parcels, &c. 
 Some scores of them filled the avenues leading to the premises; 
 the passages to the hall also were crowded; some were seen 
 peeping in, others squatting themselves down at the feet of 
 the Missionary; and others were gazing with protruded eyes 
 and open mouths, whilst parcels and boxes were being opened, 
 letters read, and exclamations of various kinds heard. A lady, 
 too, had arrived, who was to be united in marriage to one of 
 the Missionaries. Friends met who had long been separated, 
 hearts melted, tears flowed, gratitude to God was heard under 
 various forms of speech, and amongst the almost nude natives 
 there were some extraordinary leaps of delight. But the scene 
 was suddenly changed ! A letter, sealed with black, was opened. 
 A beloved father had departed this life, and the house of re- 
 joicing became the house of mourning. " There was a garden, 
 and in the garden a new sepulchre." 
 
 At noon I had my dinner sent from King George. It con- 
 sisted of six large native puddings, four baskets of ndalo, 
 sundry cocoa-nuts, and two baked hogs! I perceived that 
 whatever other parties might do, George had no intention " to 
 stop the supplies." 
 
 In the evening I met the Missionaries, and, on explaining
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 283 
 
 to them the object of my visit, they evinced every disposition 
 to economize the expenditure of the Mission, and to co-operate 
 with the Missionary Committee and Conference in rendering 
 Methodism increasingly efficient in the Southern World. 
 They passed, with much cordiality, certain resolutions 
 fully concurring in the proposition to incorporate these 
 Missions with the new Ecclesiastical arrangements about to 
 be made. 
 
 8th. Started at daybreak for a walk, and ascended a 
 conical hill of considerable height, bearing evident marks of 
 a volcanic origin. From its summit I had a fine view of 
 much of the island, which presents a succession of hills and 
 dales; and as the soil generally is rich, the hand of an en- 
 lightened cultivation would make it one of the most lovely and 
 fruitful islands of the sea; but, alas! it is little better than a 
 luxuriant wilderness. 
 
 After breakfast I visited the Levuka pottery, where vessels 
 of various sizes and shapes were being fabricated. The clay 
 found in the neighbourhood is very good for the purpose ; but 
 the process of forming it into vessels is certainly very 
 primitive. The vessels are dried in the sun; then burned in 
 a suitable fire; and many of them are so tempered, that they 
 are used for culinary purposes instead of iron pots. In another 
 part of the town I saw the people preparing a feast for the 
 King of the Friendly Isles. They were making puddings 
 of ndalo; and, by means of the coral-rock, grating sugar- 
 cane and cocoa-nuts, which, together, no doubt constituted " a 
 dainty dish to set before a King." Passing through the 
 town, which is well fortified, and all but concealed in a grove 
 of cocoa-nut and bread-fruit trees, I reached the sea-beach, 
 escorted by some twenty boys, who, on seeing me pick up a 
 shell, bounded along the shore to assist me in collecting; 
 and when they found any which I thought worthy of ac- 
 cepting, they were greatly delighted. On expressing my 
 thanks in their own tongue, and giving them a gentle pat 
 with my hand upon their naked shoulders, they evidently 
 understood and appreciated my grateful feelings, and shouted
 
 284 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 and leaped for joy. By-and-by I stooped down and picked 
 up a piece of coral, when the little Feejeeans came running 
 to see what I had got; then, in a minute, they were all in 
 the sea up to their waists, to look among the reefs for 
 coral; and when they found a piece which I accepted, they 
 danced with delight. Such a group of good-natured merry 
 little fellows I had not previously met with. Nor did they, 
 by any word or sign, seek a reward for their services. That 
 remains to be done by the children of Feejee when they shall 
 become civilized. 
 
 On returning to the Mission-House, I found that another 
 present had arrived from the King for Mr. Turner and myself. 
 It consisted of a quantity of baked yams, several native puddings, 
 quite hot, and a large turtle. The natives, attracted no doubt 
 by the odour, very kindly came to our assistance, and having 
 politely placed their keen appetites at our service, the King's 
 present soon disappeared. 
 
 In the evening Mr. Lyth met his weekly Theological Class. 
 Twenty men were present, including class-leaders, local- 
 preachers, and native teachers. The subject was the Divinity 
 of Christ. A lecture on that important doctrine had been 
 delivered to them the previous week, and now their knowledge 
 of what they had heard was tested. Generally they acquitted 
 themselves well, and adduced the titles, perfections, works, and 
 worship of the Redeemer in support of his Divine character. 
 One of the native teachers was then requested to name a text, 
 and to give an outline of the sermon he would found upon it. 
 He named John xii. 26 : " If any man serve me, let him follow 
 me ; and where I am, there shall also my servant be : if any 
 man serve me, him will my Father honour." He then wrote 
 with chalk upon a black board the following brief skeleton : 
 
 "I. The work to be done. Serving and following Christ. 
 
 " II. The good things promised. Being with Christ. Ho- 
 noured of God." 
 
 I made some inquiries relative to the filling up of the out- 
 line, and was much gratified with the replies. In this manner 
 the Missionaries are doing a great work. They are giving
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 285 
 
 sound scriptural knowledge, and, by means of natives so in- 
 structed, are conveying truth to thousands of people, who could 
 not at present be reached by any other instrumentality. 
 
 9th. Attended the examination of the schools. Five had 
 assembled from as many different towns on the island, each 
 school averaging about 50 pupils. As the examination was not 
 got up, I saw the schools in their every-day attire, and without 
 any disguise whatever. After devotion, the third chapter of 
 Mark was read. I questioned the pupils upon it in the follow- 
 ing manner; and, very generally, without much hesitation, 
 received the replies stated. 
 
 "What is a synagogue?" "A fofrt-house." "Whom did 
 Jesus meet with there?" "A man with a withered hand." 
 "What said Jesus to him?" "Stretch out thy hand." 
 " What did the man?" "He stretched it out." "What fol- 
 lowed?" "The hand was healed." "What effect had this 
 upon the Pharisees?" " They sought to kill Him." "Why so?" 
 " Because of the hardness of their hearts." 
 
 These questions were of my own originating. A hymn was 
 now sung, and some good and very melodious voices were 
 heard. Into the usual gymnastic exercises which followed, the 
 pupils pressed all their powers, and were both amusing and 
 successful In Arithmetic they had not advanced farther than 
 Simple Addition, and did not appear very expert at that. Five 
 large classes read the New Testament with considerable ease; 
 and, in spelling, individually and simultaneously, acquitted 
 themselves well. The least mistake was detected by the pupils, 
 and a suppressed titter was heard in every direction, to the 
 mortification of the hapless blunderer. In Geography con- 
 siderable proficiency had been made. The tune of the 
 National Anthem of my beloved country was sung to appro- 
 priate words prepared by Mr. Malvern ; and whilst I listened 
 to the infant voices of Feejee chanting the well-remembered 
 and fondly-cherished air, my patriotism and loyalty would 
 have been brought out with some extravagance had not 
 prudence imposed restraint: as it was, some exciting recollec- 
 tions were awakened, and scenes of a happier land flitted
 
 286 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 before my imagination, with a captivating interest not easily 
 described. 
 
 At the conclusion I gave an address, and had several im- 
 portant inquiries on the subject of Scriptural knowledge satis- 
 factorily answered. Mr. Collis, the Training-Master, aided by 
 his excellent wife, is laying the foundation of a large super- 
 structure; and although the building material may be exceed- 
 ingly rough and unshapely, it is nevertheless capable of 
 receiving a high polish, and forming a beautiful edifice. The 
 elementary branches in which the children are being instructed 
 are, Scripture knowledge, Reading, Writing, Spelling, Arithmetic, 
 Geography, and Singing, with some hints on Natural History. 
 Nearly the same routine is observed with a class of young men, 
 who are either teachers, or designed for that position; and 
 who, with great care and industry, are also taught the art of 
 communicating knowledge to others. There is a very general 
 desire for education. Both children and adults attend the 
 schools with great regularity, and embrace every opportunity 
 of gaining instruction. Many already possess a considerable 
 amount of New Testament knowledge. Several can read well. 
 A few can write a good and legible hand, and work sums in 
 Simple Addition. 
 
 The position of Mr. Collis is by no means a sinecure. In 
 addition to the schools under his immediate care, the super- 
 vision of others on the island, and indeed of all the schools 
 established in the different out-islands, comprised in what is 
 called the Lakemba Circuit, and instructed by native teachers, 
 devolves upon him as a part of his duty. He regularly, and 
 as often as practicable, visits all the schools, and labours with 
 great energy to make them efficient. Speaking of their 
 Educational operations, Mr. Collis says, 
 
 " Generally speaking, there is great hope of success, though 
 not so much with the present, as the rising generation. Reli- 
 gion has evidently taken deep root in some minds, rendering 
 them more thoughtful, and, consequently, more intelligent; of 
 these, therefore, happy results are anticipated. Old habits, 
 with others, will require much time and patience to eradicate;
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 287 
 
 but, except with the very aged, their case is not hopeless. 
 Steady, untiring perseverance, is an essential requisite on the 
 part of their instructors; and, above all, a constant reliance 
 upon Divine strength for guidance and support." 
 
 In the afternoon King George preached. The day was very 
 wet and stormy, yet the chapel was crowded to hear the Royal 
 Preacher. Having learned that his own subjects residing at 
 Lakemba for the purpose of building canoes, were not very 
 attentive to the means of intellectual and moral improvement 
 established among them in connexion with our Missions, he took 
 for his text the following very appropriate passage of Scrip- 
 ture : " My people are destroyed for lack of knowledge." 
 The discourse was delivered with much gracefulness, fluency, 
 and energy. After explaining the knowledge to which refer- 
 ence is made, he inquired what rendered Europeans so de- 
 cidedly superior to Polynesians'? Was it anything in their 
 physical structure or in their mental constitution? He said 
 he thought it was not; and then grasping the Bible, his 
 countenance meanwhile becoming radiant, he exclaimed, in an 
 elevated voice, " This is the cause of the difference ! IT is THE 
 BOOK ! IT is THE BOOK !" The impression on the minds of 
 the people was manifestly deep, and I could not but pray that 
 it might be permanent. [Note If.] 
 
 In connection with this interesting service, I married the 
 Rev. John Polglase to Miss Mary Fletcher, the daughter of 
 one of our Ministers in England, and well qualified for the 
 responsible position of a Missionary's wife. This being the first 
 marriage of any Missionary celebrated in Feejee, much 
 curiosity was awakened, and not a little interest felt among all 
 classes. The day being very wet, the road between the Mission- 
 House and the Chapel was exceedingly muddy; but the 
 natives politely covered it with the wide-spread and beautiful 
 branches of the cocoa-nut tree, and vied with each other who 
 should most efficiently render this kind service. The King 
 returned with the party to tea, and we spent the evening with 
 much pleasure, not forgetting to seek God's blessing upon the 
 union.
 
 288 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 Joel Bulu, who was present, detailed his remarkable en- 
 counter with a shark, substantially stated by Mr. Lawry in his 
 journal, and he showed us the frightful marks in his arm 
 occasioned by the lacerations of that monster of the deep. 
 Romance in real life. 
 
 IQth. On inquiring into the Feejeean propensities to 
 cannibalism, I heard from Joel Bulu, and others, some most 
 horrifying statements. They said that the evil was daily 
 practised in some parts of the country; that a victim was some- 
 times put into the oven alive, at other times mutilated, and 
 made not only to witness the cooking of his own flesh, but also 
 to feed upon it; that men sometimes killed, cooked, and ate 
 their own wives; and on one occasion, very recently, at Tokai, 
 on the Island of Ovalau, four miles from the Mission-House, a 
 man killed his wife, and, fearful to relate, cut up the body, 
 and filled two baskets with the parts; and, as his helpless child 
 that stood by, witnessing the horrid operation, began to cry, 
 he sought to soothe the sorrowful one by offering a portion of 
 the mother's flesh, saying, " Take that, and bake it." Mr. 
 Binner informed me that he had seen both the man and the 
 child. In the beginning of March of the present year, a 
 person from Manilla, named Wani, went in his vessel to Gnaw. 
 He bought a cask of oil, and was returning, when he was 
 caught in a squall. Some reports say his boat capsized ; others, 
 that it was sunk by the natives. Wani managed to swim 
 ashore; he was then stripped, bound, and baked alive. When 
 cooked, his face was painted, his clothes put on, and after being 
 paraded a short time, he was stripped and devoured. Mr. 
 Binner knew the man well; he had one of his children living 
 with him, and four others as pupils, when this terrific event 
 occurred. 
 
 Joel Bulu, who has extensive knowledge of the Feejeeans, 
 informed me he knew a man who told his wife to gather some 
 sticks, and she did so; he then directed her to heat the oven; 
 and on that being done, she inquired where the food was that 
 he intended to be cooked; when the brutal, fiendish man 
 replied, " You are the food ! " He then clubbed her, and placed
 
 THE SOUTHERN WOKLD. 289 
 
 her in the oven. Joel said the man was still alive. All these 
 cases of cannibalism were of very recent occurrence. 
 
 In the afternoon I paid my respects to the King of Lakemba, 
 a man of huge physical dimensions. I found him in the centre 
 of his barn-looking palace, in a very scanty native dress, and 
 squatted upon a mat. His household seemed very numerous, 
 and most of them had no other covering than that which 
 a few green leaves supplied. I also called upon William 
 Witasau, the heir-apparent, a Chief of great influence, who 
 wished to go in the " John Wesley " to Sydney, that whilst, as 
 he said, King George represented the Friendly Isles, he might 
 represent Feejee. A strange representative of Methodism 
 certainly ! He had been expelled a few months previously for 
 persisting in making war upon the people of Matuku, that 
 they might be compelled to lotu. 
 
 In the evening I preached in English to the Mission families, 
 and felt thankful for the opportunity of preaching the glorious 
 Gospel of Christ in the dark and cruel land of Feejee. 
 
 llth. The two Romish Priests of Lakemba called upon me. 
 Their object was twofold, to obtain European news, and to 
 request that I would take charge of some letters for Australia. 
 Of course I communicated the news, and readily took charge 
 of their letters. They wore long beards, and had a very 
 haggard appearance. Popery in this place exerts little or no 
 influence. 
 
 It appears that about two years ago there was a gracious 
 revival of religion at Lakemba. Many of the young people 
 were convinced of sin, and some of them cried out because of 
 the disquietude of their souls. This circumstance was seized 
 upon by one of the Romish Priests, who, under pretence of deep 
 interest in the welfare of the young people, urged the King 
 to put a stop to the revival, lest they should all go deranged, 
 for, said he, " This is the work of the devil." " Well," said 
 Tuineyau, "I am not much acquainted with such things, 
 neither do I pretend to be a teacher of Priests ; but, to my 
 mind, that which you say is the work of the devil looks very 
 much like what took place on the day of Pentecost, when those 
 
 o
 
 290 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 pricked in their heart said to Peter, and the rest of the 
 Apostles, 'Men and brethren, what shall we do ? ' " Well might 
 one of the Priests say, as he is reported to have said, "We 
 came too late to these islands; we ought to have been here 
 before the Scriptures." 
 
 The native teachei's frequently foil the Priests. At Totongo, 
 Ovalau, one of the Priests, showed considerable anxiety to con- 
 vince a native agent that by continuing his connection with the 
 Wesleyans he endangered his soul. Not succeeding to his satis- 
 faction with the man, he determined to try his persuasive talents 
 on the teacher's wife. On the return of her husband, she told 
 him what had transpired. He proceeded at once to the house 
 of the Priest, and informed him that he understood he had 
 been to see his wife, which was certainly very like the serpent^ 
 going to Eve when Adam was out of the way, and that he 
 had now come to hear anything the Priest might wish to say 
 to him. After answering many questions, the native teacher 
 requested permission to ask the Priest one question. " How is 
 it," said he, "that a Priest in your church has not a wife?" The 
 Priest replied, " Has God a wife ? " This question, bordering 
 on profanity, was doubtless designed as a poser; but it failed 
 to be so, for the native promptly replied, " Does God eat ? " 
 "If you are gods, or claim to be as God, be consistent through- 
 out. If it be because God has no wife, that you have not one, 
 do not eat, because God does not eat ; do not drink, because 
 God does not drink; do not live in a house, because God does 
 not live in a house; do not wear clothes, because God does 
 not wear them : be as God throughout ! " This was indeed 
 answering a fool according to his folly. 
 
 The same Priest, in conversation with another native teacher, 
 asserted that the Wesleyan Missionaries did not preach Christ 
 Jesus, but only John Wesley. " That," said the teacher, " is a 
 strange thing. I have for many years been associated with 
 the Missionaries of whom you speak, but I have only heard of 
 John Wesley incidentally. If our Missionaries taught a religion 
 of John Wesley, they would be anxious to supply us with 
 John Wesley's books; but as it is, they are only anxious to
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 291 
 
 put us in possession of the Bible : this is their first great 
 anxiety." " Nor do they place his image before the people in 
 any of their fota-houses." An appropriate and telling reply to 
 a Romish Priest who refused to give the Scriptures to the 
 people, and who filled his chapel with images. 
 
 This evening I received from Joel Bulu the outline of one 
 of his sermons, translated by my esteemed friend Mr. Binner, 
 which was very creditable. He also favoured me with the 
 following communication, which Mr. Polglase kindly translated. 
 It appears to be intended for English Christians. 
 
 " I, Joel Bulu, write to you, my fathers in Britain. I send 
 my love to you. I thank you on account of your great love 
 to us Feejeeans. You collect much money, and give your 
 children- that they may be Missionaries to Feejee. 
 
 " I desire to declare the benefit of your love to us : by it 
 we know the true God, and the true Saviour Jesus Christ, and 
 the Holy Spirit. We did not know this before ; we only 
 lotued to birds, and to fishes, and to trees, and to men, and 
 to departed spirits, and to devils, and to all bad things. This 
 we now know, and lotu aright to the true God. 
 
 " We are now enlightened by your love. We were dark 
 before : we did not know the meaning of anything. The 
 people were bad, and knew not the things by which men were 
 bad : they were sick, but did not know why. The souls 
 departed, but we knew not whither. Some said they departed 
 to the woods ; others said to the reefs; but we now know the 
 root of man's evil, the cause of his sickness, the Saviour of his 
 soul, and the place to which he goes. 
 
 " In Feejee, repentance and faith are produced ; many are 
 justified and saved; and the people have become wise. Their 
 hearts have become changed; their dispositions and conduct 
 have become good. Now, mutual love springs up. It springs, 
 it lives, it yields fruit. Its fruit is useful : for some are engaged 
 in conducting schools, some in preaching ; others are pre- 
 pared to become catechists; and some for doing the work of 
 Assistant Missionaries. 
 
 " Thanks for your love, thanks for your intercessions for 
 o2
 
 292 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 Feejee. Your prayers have prevailed. The work of God 
 springs up in my soul My heart burns in the work, and I 
 desire to give myself a living sacrifice to God. I continually 
 listen to the Missionaries, that they may govern me. This is 
 the state of my mind." 
 
 The Chairman of the Feejee District brought before me 
 the case of Rotumah, a solitary island about 300 miles north 
 of Feejee. It appears that about the year 1840, three Tonga 
 native teachers were sent to this island by the Rev. John 
 Waterhouse, in connection with the Tonga District. After 
 this it received one or two visits from the brethren there. 
 Although only 100 miles from Wallis's Island, one of the out- 
 stations of the Tonga group, it was considered by the Mis- 
 sionaries there to be easier of access from Feejee than from 
 their own group, and was accordingly transferred without the 
 consent of the Feejee District. Since that period it has been 
 visited by six different Feejee Missionaries, at intervals of one 
 or two years. The stay of the Missionary was necessarily .very 
 short, owing in part to other pressing claims, and the very 
 limited time that could be given to the work by the Mission 
 vessel. Rotumah had been, and still continues to be, a burden 
 to the Feejee District. The Missionaries have done what they 
 could, but not what the spiritual wants of Rotumah require. 
 The native teachers have contended against Popery very suc- 
 cessfully, but are unable to prepare books for the people. The 
 language is altogether different from that of Tonga or Feejee ; 
 and two European Missionaries are earnestly desired to super- 
 intend the gracious work begun, and to prepare translations of 
 the sacred Scriptures and other books in the hitherto unwritten 
 language of the people. The population of the island is 
 estimated at between 3,000 and 4,000, 800 of whom, includ- 
 ing children, are under instruction, and waiting for more 
 efficient help, so greatly needed. There are several chapels 
 erected, and the stations of the teachers include the 
 principal places on the island. I was glad to find that 
 two excellent youths of Feejee were under training, and 
 ready to be sent forth to assist the present teachers;
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 293 
 
 but still European Missionaries are required, for the reasons 
 specified. 
 
 The Chairman also desired that "The Kings' Mill Group" 
 should be favourably considered by the Missionary Society. It 
 consists of sixteen islands situated on the equator, and is con- 
 tinually visited by whale ships for purposes highly destructive 
 to the souls of the people, who are yet uncared for by any 
 Christian Body, and are left a helpless prey to ungodly men, 
 who have plunged many of them into the deepest wretchedness, 
 and left them to perish. Will no man care for their souls ? 
 
 12th. Took my leave of the Mission families in Lakemba. 
 I was more than pleased with Mr. and Mrs. Lyth, and felt 
 grateful for such suitable agents in the very important and 
 critical : work of the Feejee Mission. Mr. Lyth kindly engaged 
 to accompany me to Vewa, on account of the peculiar and 
 perilous circumstances of the Mission families in that part of 
 the District. We left Lakemba at noon ; and, in consequence 
 of the disturbed parts of the country to which we were bound, 
 two large double canoes, filled with men, to afford protection, 
 were prepared to accompany us. This entirely originated 
 with the men themselves, and was intended mainly as an 
 expression of respect and love to our royal passenger. I had 
 some heavy boxes to put on board, but found no difficulty in 
 obtaining the necessary assistance. Indeed, the natives, though 
 seeking no remuneration whatever, vied with each other who 
 should perform this service for me. 
 
 Being favoured with the company of Mr. Lyth, I obtained 
 from him a great deal of information, especially on the following 
 subjects, in relation to Feejee. 
 
 Political Constitution of the country. It appears to be 
 patriarchal; for in several respects it resembles that form of 
 government. Every town and village is divided into families, 
 or matang-gali, varying from two to ten in number, each 
 with its Chief or head, and other functionaries, so as to make 
 the family constitution complete in itself. Each Chief rules 
 in his own family ; but, at the same time, both himself and his 
 people are subject to the head Chief of the town. The next
 
 294 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 rise above this is a tribe, which may consist of one or several 
 towns. The head Chief and his matang-gali rule over the 
 rest, and he is the turanga-levu, or great Chief. Several 
 tribes are united to constitute a kingdom; these have no 
 general political bond between each other, except that they 
 serve the same master, and groan under the same tyrant. But 
 frequently the larger tribes have smaller ones paying tribute 
 unto them, as they do to their superiors; indeed this is very 
 generally the case. The town where the head Chief of all 
 resides, is called the Koro-turanga, or chief town. It is 
 divided as the rest into families, of which his is the first, 
 consisting of the several branches of his own family and their 
 dependents. Thus, the ruling matang-gali not only bears 
 sway in the town of which it is a branch, but also extends 
 its influence among all the subjects of the King, and he 
 himself is honoured with a title to distinguish him as the 
 turanga-levu of the matanitu, or kingdom : the various 
 tribes, towns, and islands under him are his ng-gali, or 
 subjects. The power which this royal personage exercises 
 over his subjects is often curtailed by powerful rivals, either 
 in his own family, or the family next in rank. Of these 
 kingdoms there are in the group several larger, and an 
 indefinite number of smaller and inconsiderable ones. The 
 names of the principal larger kingdoms are those of Bau, 
 Rewa, Thakaundrovi, or Somosomo, Lakemba, and Mathuata. 
 None of these can really be said to be independent, but Bau 
 and Rewa, which places are, and have long been, contending 
 for superiority. The strongest always rules, and lays all others 
 within its reach under tribute. As the principle which 
 universally obtains is for the strongest to domineer over the 
 rest, wars are incessant, and the less powerful tribes and towns 
 are not unfrequently changing masters; hence the political life 
 of Feejee exhibits the most fluctuating fortunes. 
 
 Recognised distinctions in Society. The distinctions are 
 chiefly those of rank and power. The weak bows before the 
 strong, and the inferior pays homage to his superior. But there 
 is no distinction of caste to entrench the people in impregnable
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 295 
 
 circles of their own. The rich and the poor often meet together 
 without the forbidding distance that prevails among more 
 civilized society. A Chief, whether of a kingdom, tribe, town, 
 or family, is called a turanga, or Chief; those under him 
 are his kaise, or inferiors, though, I am told, the word has 
 in it generally a dash of contempt. The respect usually paid 
 to age in Feejee is often very marked, and is a pleasing 
 feature in the Feejeean character. 
 
 State of Feejee previously to the introduction of the Gospel. 
 " It was," says Mr. Lyth, " exactly that described by St. Paul 
 in the first chapter of his Epistle to the Romans, with very 
 little abatement or modification, and with this additional evil, 
 the people were, as most of them still are, cannibals!" 
 
 There has, however, been improvement since Missionaries 
 resided in the country. A general impression has been made 
 that idolatry, war, polygamy, strangling, cannibalism, infanti- 
 cide, murder, and theft, with other crimes, are condemned by 
 Christianity, and justly so; and that they must all fall before 
 it, sooner or later : that Christianity, or the lotu, as they term 
 it, is, indeed, a new power come amongst them, whose object 
 is to subdue all things to itself. They have also received the 
 idea, that this new religion brings with it peace and good-will, 
 gentleness, and speaking the truth; and, if not a fear of 
 offending God, yet a dread of his displeasure, exerts some 
 influence upon them, for they have heard that the Christian's 
 God is Jehovah, and that he is King over all the earth. 
 
 Wherever Missionaries have resided, or do at present reside, 
 I am told, there are times when this impression is so strong 
 upon the minds of the people as to occasion a degree of 
 uneasiness when they do wrong, and to lead them to hesitate 
 to do so in the presence of one who is called a Christian. And, 
 " where Christianity has taken root," says Mr. Lyth, " there 
 a new state of things arises, and the old things, previously 
 mentioned, pass away, not always with the same rapidity ; 
 but, if slowly, not less surely. Wars begin to cease ; cannibalism 
 is abashed out of existence, and never named but with disgust ; 
 the man becomes the husband of one wife; an improvement
 
 296 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 commences in their political and social condition ; they become 
 clothed, and in their right mind, sitting at the feet of Jesus. 
 They now apply themselves diligently to their new vocation, 
 such as learning to read, observing the Sabbath, and attending 
 the means of grace. The word preached has been manifestly 
 accompanied with Divine power to the hearts of many, pro- 
 ducing the genuine fruits of repentance, faith, and spiritual 
 renovation. These happy results have been effected generally 
 by the gentle opening of the understanding and the heart, to 
 attend to the things spoken, unaccompanied with much outward 
 excitement. But in some instances we have been favoured 
 with ' showers of blessing ;' and, in some places, with a 
 general outpouring of the Holy Spirit. These visitations, 
 whether more gentle or more powerful, have been followed 
 with marked effects of a salutary kind upon the minds of the 
 unconverted around. Very soon after clear cases of conversion, 
 especially among the young people, it has appeared evident 
 that, together with Divine grace, spiritual gifts have also been 
 given, to qualify them for posts of usefulness in the church. 
 Wherever the word has been preached faithfully to a willing 
 people, these blessed results have followed, whether the 
 instrument was a Missionary or a native teacher." 
 
 Number and character of Native Agents. I ascertained from 
 Mr. Lyth, that the present number is about 50, not including 
 local-preachers, of whom there is a goodly number. Of these 
 native teachers, 34 belong to the Lakemba Circuit; 10 to the 
 Vewa Circuit; 1 to the Bau Circuit; and 2 to the Nandy Cir- 
 cuit. Fifteen or more of the entire number are Tongese, and 
 the rest are Feejeeans. In general they are truly good and 
 useful men; but differing greatly according to the kind of 
 training with which they have been favoured, and the degree 
 of attention and help they continue to receive. Without strict 
 Missionary oversight they are generally very inefficient, but 
 with it most valuable auxiliaries. The Tongese decidedly take 
 the lead of the Feejeean teachers in point of ability, though not 
 without some honourable exceptions. They are employed in 
 preaching, conducting schools, leading classes, visiting from
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 297 
 
 town to town, according to the circumstances of the place in 
 which they labour. In places more advanced, as in the Lakemba 
 Circuit, they attend to the quarterly visitation of the classes, 
 hold Leaders'-meetings, look after all the subordinate agents in 
 the locality, and attend to the spiritual wants of the people, 
 to whom they minister both in sickness and in health. In ad- 
 dition to this labour, they have to plant, and provide, in part, 
 for their own sustenance, and that of their families. In all but 
 the Lakemba Circuit they are remunerated by a small quarterly 
 allowance from the Mission, mostly in the form of clothing; 
 and in that Circuit the principle has been adopted of the church 
 members contributing quarterly to the support of their teacher, 
 in the form of native clothing and food, according to a fixed 
 allowance determined at the yearly meeting of the Teachers 
 and Missionary. 
 
 Besides these native teachers, or catechists, we have three 
 native Assistant Missionaries, with an encouraging prospect of 
 greatly increasing their number. Their duties are, in most 
 respects, the same as those of the Missionary. Being chosen 
 from the list of catechists, they are well-tried men ; such as by 
 their manifest piety, ability, and zeal, have proved themselves 
 the most qualified for the high and important trust. These 
 agents exercise their ministry in a branch of a Circuit, and 
 promise to be a very efficient class of labourers, under the 
 general superintendence of the Missionary. In addition to the 
 usual allowance, which they have from the church members in 
 common with the catechists, they receive a further allowance 
 of from 3 to 5 per annum, in suitable articles from the 
 Mission store. 
 
 Progress of Education. The Heathen part of the population 
 are altogether in darkness; they neither read nor write, nor 
 have any written literature. But the larger portion of the 
 Christians can read, and perhaps one in twenty can write a 
 little. They are very anxious to be instructed in both branches; 
 and the number of those who can do both with creditable 
 ability is rapidly increasing. The printed literature possessed 
 by the Christian part of the population consists of the New 
 
 o 5
 
 298 THE SOUTHEKN WORLD. 
 
 Testament, Catechisms, Hymn-Books, two courses of Christian 
 Theology in the form of Sermons, sundry pastoral instructions 
 to teachers and church members, a brief Memoir of the Rev. 
 John Hunt, the Rules of the Society, and some other minor 
 publications. For the aid of English students of the Feejeean 
 language, there has been published an excellent and compre- 
 hensiveDictionary and Grammar. The Old Testament Scriptures 
 have been translated, and will be printed as soon as practicable.* 
 
 Hindrances to the Gospel in Feejee. Mr. Lyth mentions the 
 following : "Among the Heathen themselves : the constant feuds 
 and jealousies of rival powers in different kingdoms, and among 
 different tribes in the same kingdom; the overgrown and 
 terror-inspiring tyranny of the ruling powers; wars, almost 
 universal, generally long- continued, and new ones continually 
 springing up. Where Christianity has been received by a sub- 
 ordinate tribe in a state, the frequent intimidations employed 
 by their superior Chiefs against the new converts, sometimes 
 amounting to absolute prohibitions and most violent threats, 
 and, in some cases, the employment of the most artful means 
 to turn them from the truth ; these, besides the grand hindrance, 
 the love of sin, and of the vain conversation received by tra- 
 dition from the fathers, may be named as some of the principal 
 hindrances to the Gospel found among the heathen themselves. 
 
 " Among the agencies employed may be adduced the want of 
 a better instructed and better disciplined native agency, and 
 then not sufficiently remembering the necessary connection 
 existing between prosperity in the church and the conversion 
 of the heathen, so as to make the combined light and influence 
 of the former to bear upon the work of aggressive Christianity. 
 
 "In the Church: the fact, arising out of the peculiar circum- 
 stances of a new Mission, of there being so many church 
 members, to say nothing of mere nominal Christians, who are 
 yet unsaved themselves, and who are resting in the outward 
 
 * The British and Foreign Bible Society, in addition to its former liber- 
 ality, has engaged to print five thousand copies of the Old Testament, and 
 ten thousand of the New Testament, for the use of the Feejeeans. This 
 munificent gift will be most gratefully received, and, we doubt not, rendered 
 a great blessing.
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 299 
 
 observances of religion, whilst destitute of that light which 
 shines, and that love which burns. More hindrances might 
 be named, but all may be summed up in this the want of a 
 large increase of the spirit of earnest, united, believing prayer, 
 accompanied by more directly spiritual efforts for the removal 
 of difficulties, and the dissemination of truth, under a still 
 deeper conviction than hitherto felt, that it is ' not by might, 
 nor by power, but by my Spirit, saith the Lord.' " 
 
 The recent War on the Island of MatuTca. It appears that 
 for some time there was a degree of mystery connected with 
 the origin of the war between the Christian and Heathen 
 parties of Matuku. Persecution was said to be the occasion 
 of it, and was pleaded as a reason which, in the first place, 
 induced the Christian Chief of Moala and the Tongese of 
 Lakemba to proceed to that island for the purpose, as was 
 pretended, of inquiry. From the first there were very sus- 
 picious movements on the part of those calling themselves 
 Christians; but actual collision was avoided until two of the 
 Christian party were murdered by the Heathen. This was the 
 signal for actual hostilities. The Christian Chiefs of Lakemba 
 were called to aid in the war, to assist against persecution. 
 "We narrowly watched their proceedings," says Mr. Lyth, 
 " but for some time could not come at the truth. After a lapse 
 of a few weeks, we received information that threw much 
 light on the affair, and completely removed the onus of pro- 
 voking hostilities from the Heathen to the Christians. Two 
 leading Chiefs, church members, were charged, the one with 
 originating, the other with aiding in, the war. Others, non- 
 church members, were equally implicated, with whom, in the 
 ezercise of discipline, we had nothing of course to do. As 
 soon as we came to the full knowledge of these facts, we 
 expelled from church fellowship the two Chiefs referred to, and 
 wrote to them at the seat of war to that effect. After about 
 three months the war ended in the submission of the Heathen, 
 and their being made to lotu as their peace-offering. Their 
 lives were spared, but their town was plundered, and some 
 were made prisoners, and brought to Lakemba. The loss
 
 300 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 during the war was greater on the Christian than on the 
 Heathen side, which was viewed as a mark of the Divine dis- 
 approbation. The day came for the return home of the 
 Lakemba party, including some of the people of many different 
 islands that had been summoned to the war. Seeing the path 
 of duty quite plain, we passed an act of expulsion against all 
 the church members, including local-preachers and leaders, 
 who had voluntarily connected themselves with the war; and 
 against all those who, having gone by order of their Chiefs, 
 had been guilty of plundering, Sabbath-breaking, &c. We 
 waited on the King to state what we had done, and on what 
 principle we had acted, and he was satisfied with our proceed- 
 ings. The immediate effect of this discipline was trying to 
 ourselves: there was much displeasure on the part of the 
 principal Chiefs, with which the people of course sympathized. 
 But, by God's grace, we stood firm, and soon weathered the 
 storm, without losing one to Popery, or having the pain of 
 seeing the expelled fall back to Heathenism. At the same 
 time a lesson was taught that will not soon be forgotten, viz., 
 that church-membership and aggressive war are incompatible, 
 and that neither rank, nor number, nor power, shall bribe us 
 (by Divine grace) to lower the standard of New Testament 
 principles, and the purity of the Gospel." 
 
 Considerations which sustain and encourage Feejeean Mis- 
 sionaries. In conversing with my valued friend Mr. Lyth, he 
 expressed the following views on this subject : " A clear con- 
 viction that the work in which they are engaged is God's work, 
 and that He has called them to it; a firm trust in His pro- 
 mised presence and co-operation, and His all-sufficient aid 
 at all times, and under all circumstances; a determined 
 adherence to the word of God as their rule and guide; the 
 exercise of that faith that looks directly to the promise, 
 realizes its fulfilment, and that goes forward in patient, per- 
 severing effort; and, above all, the experience of the efficacy 
 of prayer, as a means of grace, and an instrument of pro- 
 curing blessings for others. So far as we have attended to 
 these principles, so far have we found the sensible presence
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 301 
 
 of our great Lord with us, and He has sustained and en- 
 couraged us in our work, and crowned our efforts with His 
 blessing. To His name be all the glory!" 
 
 13^. Sunday. To-day Mr. Lyth preached on deck. The 
 weather was fine, and we had pleasure in worshipping Him 
 whom winds and seas obey. We were passing at the time the 
 island said to be the worst in the group for cannibalism. This 
 originated a train of thought deeply affecting, and many a 
 heart prayed, " Have respect to thy covenant, Lord ; for the 
 dark places of the earth are full of the habitations of cruelty." 
 Mr. Lyth preached from James v. 20 : " Let him know, that 
 he which converteth the sinner from the error of his way 
 shall save a soul from death, and shall hide a multitude of 
 sins." < The sermon was constructed according to the soul- 
 saving principle, whose single aim is the glory of God] in the - 
 salvation of men, and it was in perfect keeping with the 
 general character and proceedings of one who, for the rescue 
 of perishing sinners, had so often hazarded his life in the 
 cause of Christ. 
 
 1 4th. This morning we found ourselves amidst islands of 
 exquisite beauty. Some lofty, the tops of whose mountains 
 were enveloped in fleecy clouds; and others, rising just above 
 the waters of the blue sea, appeared like so many gardens 
 of luxuriant foliage springing from the deep. About 12 
 o'clock, after passing between numerous reefs, and wending 
 our way through a narrow, serpentine, and intricate channel, 
 we came to anchor in the harbour of Vewa. The Rev. Joseph 
 Waterhouse, who had just arrived from the seat of war at 
 Ovalau, came on board, and was soon followed by the Rev. J. 
 Calvert. They hailed my arrival with manifest pleasure, and 
 the more so, on account of the perplexities into which they 
 had been thrown by the war. On going on shore, the first 
 person who shook hands with me was the " King of the Fisher- 
 men," who had only a few weeks before slain seventeen persons 
 to supply food for some distinguished visitors. Had I known 
 this when the dreadful cannibal held out his hand, my salu- 
 tation would certainly have been less hearty.
 
 302 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 VEWA Meeting of Missionaries Visit to Bau Thakombau King 
 of Somosomo School examination Meditated revenge Change in 
 Christian Feejeeans Civilization Native's estimate of Missionaries 
 Sacrifice of human life Effects of European and American visitors 
 Mental character Romanism Means of support Treatment of women 
 Resources for trade Prospect of Christianizing the people General 
 aspect and character of the country Climate Commerce Cannibalism 
 Character of the Heathen Means of civilization Superstition Tradi- 
 tion Courtship Women in power Contrast between Christians and 
 the Heathen Clothing. 
 
 VEWA is a small island of three miles in circumference, but, 
 as a Mission-station, is thought very valuable, since it affords 
 access not only to the capital of Feejee, but to many other 
 places, and is a centre of influence. The Mission premises stand 
 upon one of its hills, commanding an extensive view of the 
 picturesque harbour, and are exposed to the sea-breeze, which 
 must greatly contribute to their healthiness. 
 
 15th. Met the Missionaries, whose spirit I greatly admired, 
 and who fully sympathized with the objects of my visit. The 
 health of the Rev. D. Hazlewood having failed, it was resolved 
 that he should go in the " John Wesley" to Australia, in hope 
 that the change might be the means of saving his valuable life. 
 Mr. Hazlewood had laboured with much diligence and success, 
 especially in the literary department of the Mission. He had 
 prepared and published, for the use of the English student in 
 acquiring the Feejeean language, an excellent Grammar and 
 Dictionary, and had translated the largest portion of the Old 
 Testament into the vernacular tongue. The untiring zeal with 
 which he applied himself to these wasting labours had resulted 
 in great prostration of strength, and a pulmonary affection. 
 
 During the day I had several visitors, who wished to shake 
 hands with me, a ceremony certainly not very agreeable in 
 Feejee ; and, in consequence of a certain disease resembling
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 303 
 
 leprosy, with which some of the natives are afflicted, not 
 always safe. 
 
 Amongst the visitors was Ratu Tevita Raicebe, the Chief who 
 had accompanied Mr. Watsford to Sydney. He was attired in 
 the European costume, and astounded the people by statements 
 of what he had seen in the country of white men. It is re- 
 quired that every local-preacher in Feejee shall wear a shirt, 
 and in other respects be decently clothed ; and this Chief, on 
 his arrival in Sydney, seeing multitudes well attired, was 
 almost frantic with delight. Judging of things in Australia by 
 the Feejeean standard, he concluded that every man he met 
 wearing a shirt was a local-preacher ! 
 
 16th. In company with Messrs. Calvert and Turner, I 
 visited Bau, an island two miles in circumference, and about 
 two miles from Vewa. Here is the capital of Feejee, the 
 residence of Thakombau, the highest Chief, who exerts influ- 
 ence more or less over the whole country. The landing-place 
 not being good, a person of very forbidding aspect stretched 
 out his hand to afford me assistance in getting out of the 
 boat, a service which he rendered with considerable politeness. 
 For this act of civility I took off my hat, and thanked him 
 when to my consternation Mr. Calvert said, " That man is the 
 greatest cannibal in the place!" We landed within a few 
 paces of the oven in which several human bodies had recently 
 been baked; in another part of the town we saw five more 
 ovens, exclusively used for cooking human flesh, and in which, 
 but a few weeks before, several bodies had been baked, to 
 supply food for the King of Somosomo and his attendants. In 
 passing through this city of darkness and blood, Mr. Calvert 
 pointed out the place where, in opposition to the most earnest 
 entreaties of the Missionaries, the wives of the late King had 
 been strangled. My attention was also directed to a stone 
 near one of the temples, against which the heads of several 
 victims had been dashed, preparatory to their being cooked 
 and eaten ; the stone, still retaining the marks of blood, bore 
 testimony to the insecurity of human life in the Feejeean 
 capital, and to the savage brutality of its inhabitants. The
 
 304 TUB SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 town, with a population of not more than 1,500, I found fur- 
 nished with upwards of twenty temples. We entered one of 
 them, and saw the priest and sevei-al persons apparently en- 
 joying themselves. Some were smoking, and others eating 
 fish, near to the sacred cloth behind which the god of the 
 temple is said to descend when he comes to inspire the priests, 
 and make known his mind to the people. Several beautifully 
 carved clubs were hung up near the spot, I suppose for the 
 use of the god in any case of emergency! Leaving this 
 temple, we went to another; and on asking why a neat new 
 fence had been put around it, a woman replied that it was to 
 influence the god to change the wind ; that he had accepted the 
 offering, changed the wind accordingly, and the absent canoes 
 had returned. In passing to another part of the town, we 
 saw an oven prepared for baking a large hog. The entrails 
 of the slaughtered animal, merely frizzled upon hot stones, 
 were eaten with the utmost gusto, and the tongue, similarly 
 prepared, was greedily devoured by one of the Chiefs. That 
 individual shook hands with me, and, as I found it convenient, 
 for the reason already stated, to keep on my gloves, he held up 
 my hand to the gaze of the multitude, that they might see 
 how curious it was ; but on my taking off the glove, and again 
 presenting my hand to the Chief, not a little merriment was 
 created. 
 
 We next proceeded to pay our respects to Thakombau, and 
 found him and his principal wife waiting to receive the King 
 of the Friendly Isles. They were both seated on the matted 
 floor, with their hair elaborately dressed, but without any 
 covering save the very scanty supply of native cloth around the 
 loins, which the custom of Feejee prescribes. The Chief received 
 us courteously, and his wife prepared us some tea, the kettle 
 being boiled in the centre of the room. A chair was brought 
 for me, which, on inquiry, I ascertained had been made by my 
 friend Mr. Handisyde, of London, and presented to the late 
 Rev. John Waterhouse. This circumstance awakened many 
 recollections. I spoke to the great Chief on the subject of 
 religion; telling him that his name was known in England,
 
 THE SOUTHERN WOULD. 305 
 
 and that it would be gratifying to the good people of that 
 country were he to embrace Christianity: that the religion of 
 Christ was true; that it elevated Chiefs and Kings as well as the 
 common people, when they cordially received it ; and that it 
 was necessary to salvation. I also informed him that it afforded 
 me pleasure to hear that he had consented for one of our 
 Missionaries to reside at Bau, and hoped he would aid and 
 protect him. He appeared to receive my statements with 
 pleasure, but whether that was merely Feejeean etiquette, or 
 the result of a better feeling and higher principle, time will 
 declare.* 
 
 King George soon made his appearance, and, having 
 taken his seat near Thakombau, a large bunch of kava- 
 root was laid at his feet. The palace, if it may be so de- 
 signated, was now well filled with Chiefs and other persons of 
 distinction. The kava-ring being formed, preparations for 
 
 * " Intelligence recently received announces that Thakombau has 
 lotued. The event took place April 30, 1854, when he, with many 
 others, publicly renounced heathenism and bowed before the Most High. 
 In a letter addressed by Mr. Calvert to the author, he says, " The death- 
 drum was beaten to announce the time of service. The chief men, and 
 several ladies of rank, with about 300 assembled, well dressed, orderly, 
 serious," and attentive. Our hearts were gladdened. My emotion was so 
 great that I could with difficulty get through the service. How many 
 evils not easily prevented are done away at a stroke ! What a foundation 
 of great, extensive, and everlasting good to Feejee ! Feejee's brightest, 
 best day, and never to be forgotten. After the service crowds came for 
 alphabets, and many groups at once assembled to learn to read. 
 
 " Early on the following day I called on the Chief. He and his prin- 
 cipal wife desired me to conduct family worship. His carpenters* 
 visitors, servants, and several Baw people crowded one end of his spacious 
 house; and after the worship he ordered his people to go to plant, and sail, 
 saying that for one day they must refrain, and be diligent on the other 
 days of the week. The Chief appeared to be released of a load. He spoke 
 and acted as one fully conscious that he had taken an important step in 
 the right way. He has been diligent in temporal matters. He is a man 
 of mind and firmness. I trust he will be blessed abundantly, and fully 
 guided by the Lord, and that his kingdom may be established upon the 
 best and surest foundation. 
 
 " On the 7th, about 600 persons attended divine service at Baw. 
 Thakombau continuing very decided, had got a large bell for family 
 prayer, that all living in the outhouses might be called to worship."
 
 306 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 making the kava, such as those I had witnessed in Vavau, 
 were commenced, and soon the popular beverage was ready for 
 use. I told King George I was very anxious for him to talk 
 closely to the great Chief on the all-important subject of 
 giving up heathenism, and seeking to be saved through Christ. 
 He assured me that was his mind, and the opportunity should 
 not be lost. We remained until the first bowl of kava 
 had been drunk, and then retired, lest our presence should 
 be a restraint upon the conversation of the two great Chief- 
 tains. 
 
 The house of Thakombau was well stored with bales of 
 native cloth, whales' teeth, and a variety of European articles, 
 which the Chief had received as presents. On returning from 
 court, we passed a muddy pool of fresh water, in which pigs 
 and women were wallowing in perfect harmony ; and the 
 latter appeared as much at ease and as utterly devoid of shame 
 as the former. We examined the ground offered for Mission 
 premises. It is situated on the summit of the hill, from which 
 there is an extensive view, embracing a large number of 
 islands. In descending from the hill we visited the House of 
 Strangers, a large building, numerously occupied. Here we 
 met with the King of Somosomo, under the operation of 
 his hairdresser. When I remembered that he had buried 
 his own father alive, and had determined to bake in the oven 
 the first person who should lotu in his jurisdiction, it was im- 
 possible to look upon him with pleasurable feelings. On my 
 being introduced to this cannibal, he took hold of my hand, 
 and, with peculiar emphasis, used the only two English words 
 he knew, namely, " Large knife ! " This exclamation, coupled 
 with his well-known propensities, might have startled me, had 
 I not inferred from his countenance that it was a begging 
 petition. I told him that I was not a trader come to give him 
 a large knife, but a Minister of the Gospel, come to offer him 
 salvation in the name of Christ. He replied, that was very 
 well, but he preferred a large knife. I then reasoned with 
 him, and, as I thought, conclusively; but, alas for my anticipa- 
 tions ! his only reply to my argument was, "Large knife!"
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 307 
 
 Having disentangled myself from the grip of this savage, this 
 son of Belial, I left him without reluctance. 
 
 On returning to the boat, I was introduced to a Chief, one 
 of whose wives is a Tonga woman. Some years ago she was 
 a devoted Christian, spoken highly of by our Missionaries at 
 Vavau; but, having come to Feejee, she yielded to temptation, 
 and is now a miserable Heathen. The Chief and his household 
 seemed glad to see me; but when Mr. Calvert stated I had 
 been to the Friendly Islands, the countenance of the female 
 altered. She appeared low and dejected, possibly as the result 
 of former scenes of enjoyment being thus brought to her 
 mind. 
 
 We now left Bau, probably the deepest hell on earth, and 
 steered for Vewa; but, in consequence of the ebbing tide, we 
 had to run into a bay, and walk across that undulating and 
 truly romantic island, where nature revels in beauty. 
 
 In the afternoon the schools were examined. They assembled 
 in the chapel, a very rustic edifice, capable of accommodating 
 about 500 persons; and it was very well filled with children 
 and adults. The boys repeated the 5th chapter of the first of 
 Thessalonians, and the girls the 21st chapter of Revelation. I 
 questioned them on what they had repeated, and their replies 
 were generally correct. Amongst them was an interesting 
 girl, about thirteen years of age, the daughter of the late 
 Varani, recently and most treacherously murdered. Being a 
 very religious and intelligent girl, she had, a few days pre- 
 viously, prayed in the children's prayer-meeting that the Lord 
 would forgive the murderers of her father. On hearing this, I 
 could not but feel a deep interest in her welfare; and, having 
 called her to me, gave her such advice as I deemed suitable. 
 The men repeated a short sermon of the late Mr. Hunt. 
 That indefatigable Missionary prepared and published before 
 his death a small volume of sermons in the Feejeean language, 
 comprising a concise, but clear and comprehensive, view of 
 the evidences, doctrines, and duties of Christianity. The 
 volume has been extensively useful; and, as the men were 
 repeating one of the sermons, I thought of his tomb, which
 
 308 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 was close by, and of the saying of St. Paul in relation to another 
 saint, " He being dead, yet speaketh." I looked at his tomb 
 while listening to his sermon ! a deeply solemn and instruc- 
 tive position to occupy ! His sun went down whilst it was 
 yet day ; but, 
 
 " That life is long which answers life's great end." 
 
 The women repeated the 6th chapter of Daniel, and on my 
 questioning them thereon, gave intelligent and satisfactory 
 answers. The children were next examined in Scripture 
 History, and gave the principal facts in the life of Joseph, and 
 also the chief events connected with the death of Christ. In 
 Natural History and Geography their progress was encouraging. 
 Their writing, too, was very respectable. Amongst the women 
 was the widow of a local-preacher who had accompanied 
 Varani to Ovalau, and been murdered, cooked, and eaten. She 
 was of sorrowful spirit ; and when I spoke to her in the over- 
 flowings of deep sympathy, she wept, but said her consolation 
 was, that her late husband, being a very good man, was now 
 in a better place than Feejee. 
 
 I examined the whole congregation as to their knowledge of 
 Christianity, and was happy to find that the Christians under- 
 stood its saving truths. I addressed them, through the medium 
 of Mr. Calvert, on such points as I deemed suitable, and felt 
 highly gratified with much I saw and heard. 
 
 A few of the Heathen were present, and the contrast be- 
 tween them and the lotu people was most marked. It appeared 
 in their countenances, clothing, and behaviour. The counte- 
 nances of the Heathen were painted, and rendered truly 
 terrific; those of the Christians were clean, and radiant with 
 delight. The Heathen were all but in a state of nudity; the 
 Christians were decently attired, and most of them had some 
 articles of European costume. Amongst the former appeared 
 the spirit of levity and restlessness; amongst the latter, the 
 spirit of devotion and quietness. It was darkness and light 
 meeting each other, without any intervening twilight. 
 
 The people in their heathen state are opposed to education ;
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 309 
 
 thinking it belongs to the lotu; and some of them are both 
 puzzled and amused with writing. Not long ago a Bau Chief 
 had been to a neighbouring island, where he seized a pig 
 belonging to Mr. Waterhouse, and carried it to Bau. Our 
 teacher expostulated with him, but in vain. He then i*equested 
 the Chief to take a letter to the Missionary, to which he readily 
 consented. Mr. Watsford having safely received it, went to 
 Bau to make inquiry. He read from the letter the depreda- 
 tion the Chief had committed. The people were astonished, 
 and flocked around him to see the speaking paper. The Chief 
 was confounded sent back the pig, saying, " Those letters are 
 fearful things. I brought it myself, and it has told all about 
 me. It is like the outrigger of a canoe, which gets in as 
 soon as the canoe itself. I will never carry another such 
 thing," 
 
 As soon as the people embrace Christianity, they seek for 
 instruction that they may read the word of God. As in the 
 Friendly Isles, so in Feejee, the Scriptures are highly valued. 
 "I remember," says Mr. Watsford, "once having walked about 
 thirty miles with a faithful good lad, who lived with me. The 
 poor boy being very tired, I determined to make him a present 
 of a nice New Testament which I had lately received. I took 
 it with me into his house, where I found him on the mat, 
 wearied and desiring to sleep, and I said, ' Sampson, here is a 
 New Testament for you.' Never shall I forget his pleasant 
 and earnest face as he sprang to his feet, seized the precious 
 treasure, pressed it to his heart, and literally danced for joy." 
 Christians carry the New Testament about with them; and 
 when at sea and their canoe has been upset, their first concern 
 has been to save the valued book; and they have been seen 
 swimming to shore, battling the wave with one hand, and by 
 the other grasping the New Testament, and endeavouring 
 to keep it above the flood. On other occasions, they have 
 been known to fasten the book upon the crown of the head, 
 and, in the first outburst of gratitude on reaching the shore, 
 they have forgotten their own preservation in thanks to God 
 that their New Testament was safe.
 
 310 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 Soon after my return to the Mission-House, I had several 
 presents of fans, mats, spears, clubs, &c., brought me, as an 
 expression of love, which I of course accepted, and acknowledged 
 in the most suitable terms I was able to employ. Varani's 
 daughter, already mentioned, brought a mat of her own making, 
 which I shall greatly value. 
 
 17th. Early this morning I was waited upon by Ezekiel, 
 the brother and successor of the lamented Varani, but of 
 higher rank. He said that he had made preparations to 
 revenge the death of his brother, but having heard my address 
 yesterday on the forgiving spirit of Christianity he had been 
 led to pause, and resolve to consult me on the subject. After 
 some preliminary conversation, I stated that I felt the death 
 of Varani very deeply, and when it became known in England 
 the Christians there would feel in like manner; that, consider- 
 ing the atrocity of the offence, and the custom of the country, 
 I did not wonder at his feeling; but as it was greater to for- 
 give than to be revenged, and was what God required, I hoped 
 he would not carry his purpose into effect. I also stated that 
 King George of the Friendly Islands, some of whose friends 
 had been recently killed, refused every application made to 
 him for revenge, saying, " That is not man's work : ' Ven- 
 geance is mine, I will repay, saith the Lord;'" and if he 
 followed so good an example, he would never have cause to 
 regret. He replied, that he felt thankful for my advice; it was 
 good, and he would act upon it : that on my return to England 
 I might listen, but that I should never hear that he had done 
 the thing against which I had dissuaded him ; yet, nevetheless, 
 he hoped that when a Queen's ship arrived, the conduct of the 
 white men thought to be implicated in the deed of blood 
 would be inquired into. I replied, that a Queen's ship was on 
 her passage, and might be shortly expected ; that the com- 
 mander, who was a gentleman of honourable character, and 
 distinguished ability, would no doubt investigate the unpleasant 
 affair. Having expressed his satisfaction, I said his spirit had 
 done my heart good, that I greatly loved him on account of 
 it, would pray for him, and I hoped by the blessing of God he
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 311 
 
 would endeavour to save his soul, become a member of the 
 church, and render the same protection and assistance to the 
 Missionaries which had been rendered by Varani. He appeared 
 not more than twenty-five years of age, possessing a good 
 intellect, and of most gentlemanly manners. 
 
 King George dined with us. He had been to see the King 
 of Somosomo, already alluded to, and, when urged to lotu, that 
 cruel and deeply-degraded cannibal said that the lotu was very 
 good for bad men, but it was unnecessary for him, as he 
 possessed a good disposition and a heart quite right!" "The 
 natural man receiveth not the things of the Spirit of God;" 
 " neither can he know them, because they are spiritually 
 discerned."* 
 
 Having asked the Rev. Thomas Williams the following 
 questions, I received the annexed replies. 
 
 "1. To what extent have any of the Feejeeans been changed 
 by Christianity?" 
 
 " Very many persons who in heart love the dark practices 
 of their country, cease to pursue them, and follow, though at a 
 distance, the goodly number who have become lowly, upright, 
 kind, chaste, honest, mild, liberal, truthful, and tender-hearted. 
 Not a few have passed from death unto life, and can say, as 
 an afflicted Feejeean whom I well knew once wrote, ' I praise 
 God that the atonement made by Jesus avails for me, and that 
 which once caused enmity betwixt God and me is removed 
 from my jnind. I know that Jesus loves me, and I love him. 
 The Holy Ghost confirms to me that I am become a child of 
 God. I rejoice that I have laid hold of my Saviour Jesus 
 Christ, and I know that God has, for the sake of Jesus, forgiven 
 all my sins.'" 
 
 * A few months after this interview, the cannibal Chief was murdered in 
 bed by his own son and nephew; and the strangling of his wives immediately 
 followed. He and Thakombau formed the most powerful obstacles to the 
 spread of Christianity in Feejee. Their influence for evil was great, and 
 was so exerted as to be exceedingly trying to the faith, patience, and 
 courage of our noble Missionaries ; but the one having been removed by 
 death, and the other reclaimed by the Gospel, the work of evangelizing 
 the country will now no doubt rapidly advance.
 
 312 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 " 2. In what respect, and to what extent, has civilization 
 been introduced into FeejeeT' 
 
 " This is a very natural question for an Englishman to ask, 
 but one of the last to which an Englishman is fit to reply. A 
 wealthy Eastern would in all probability say they were well 
 advanced, whilst those who cannot disconnect civilization from 
 gold lace and black beavers, railroads and electric telegraphs, 
 might say they have not taken a step in that direction. True 
 civilization is not the work of a day; and although visitors to 
 the group do not see the goodly superstructure they wish for, 
 it does not follow that a solid foundation is not being laid. 
 Those who have visited Eeejee have looked for it in the town 
 or village rather than in the community, in the house rather 
 than in the man. At present it must be sought for chiefly in 
 the feelings and habits of the people. Civilization is being 
 promoted surely, for Christianity is making them good and 
 useful members of society, faithful husbands, and tender fathers, 
 and is creating in them the desire for a prolonged and happy 
 life here, and for a place in heaven hereafter, and teaching 
 them how to obtain the fulfilment of these new desires. In 
 doing this, Christianity is leading them by a sure path to 
 civilization." 
 
 " 3. In what light are the Missionaries regarded by the 
 people?" 
 
 " A very few of the natives look upon them with suspicion. 
 Their bosoms never felt a disinterested impulse, never were 
 warmed with a wish for the welfare of an individual beyond 
 their intimate acquaintance, and they are in consequence 
 unwilling to believe that we are not seeking our own advan- 
 tage whilst professing to seek theirs alone. Generally, however, 
 they are now regarded by the natives, Heathen as well as 
 Christian, in the light of friends, whose words are truth, whose 
 acts are love." 
 
 " 4. Does the religion or custom of the people require the 
 sacrifice of human life ? " 
 
 "Both religion and common custom require the sacrifice of 
 human life. The building of temples and their dedication, the
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 313 
 
 building of canoes, launching them, and their first voyage, 
 together with war and funeral observances, are occasions when 
 the sacrifice of human life is required, and when much blood 
 is shed." 
 
 " 5. What effects have been produced upon the natives by 
 the visits of Europeans and Americans'?" 
 
 " With few exceptions, such only as are to be lamented. 
 Generally such visitors are unfriendly to Missionary labours, 
 and they countenance all that is base." 
 
 " 6. May well-conducted foreigners safely settle among the 
 people 1 ?" 
 
 " They may on the windward islands, but on those to the 
 leeward such a step would involve a risk of both property and 
 life." 
 
 " 7. What is the mental character of the Feejeeans 1 ?" 
 " Very respectable, and capable of improvement to any 
 extent." 
 
 "8. What has Romanism effected in Feejee?" 
 "Little indeed, beyond rendering itself an object of suspicion 
 and contempt." 
 
 "9. By what means do the people support themselves 1 ?" 
 "By agriculture and fishing chiefly. They are more in- 
 dustrious than Polynesians generally are, employing them- 
 selves in building canoes and houses, making spears, clubs, 
 pillows, bowls, turtle-nets, besides many little articles for 
 ornament. The women beat cloth, (tapa,) braid mats, baskets, 
 their own dresses, (leku,) and make several varieties of pottery 
 and nets. Some of them are skilful hairdressers. Fish is 
 dried as an article of exchange on the Thakaundrovi coast ; 
 and, on the Great Feejee, salt, and liquid sugar are prepared." 
 "10. How are the women treated in Feejee?" 
 " The women of Feejee are certainly degraded. In some 
 cases they have been treated cruelly ; but mostly they are 
 treated pretty well, and often kindly." 
 
 " 11. What are the resources of the country for trade ? " 
 "At present they are limited; the natives having only 
 sandal-wood, tortoise-shell, beche-dc-mer, cocoa-nut oil, and 
 
 f
 
 314 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 yams, to exchange for foreign manufactures. Cotton is found 
 on the islands, and would repay cultivation. The sugar-cane 
 flourishes, coffee promises to do well; and it is the opinion of 
 several naval gentlemen that rice, indigo, and spices generally, 
 might be grown to advantage. Sponge may be had in con- 
 siderable quantities." 
 
 " 12. What is the prospect of Christianizing the people ? " 
 " That is very hopeful. Besides a goodly number who have 
 died, witnessing a good confession, there are at this time 2,807 
 church, members, and 384 individuals on trial for church- 
 membership. There are 3,916 scholars in our schools, and about 
 6,000 attending the ministry of the word. But for the 
 injurious advice of foreigners who visit them for purposes of 
 trade, I think the entire Feejeean population might have been 
 reckoned amongst the professors of Christianity." 
 
 I also obtained from other Missionaries the following 
 additional particulars respecting the country and people of 
 Feejee. 
 
 General aspect and character of the Feejee Islands. The 
 appearance of the islands is generally very interesting. They 
 are well wooded, have extensive rivers (especially the two large 
 islands) navigable by canoes and boats, have very ample 
 cattle-runs on the high lands, and excellent and extensive 
 plains for the cultivation of yams, taro, &c. I should think 
 rice, sugar-cane, and coffee might be cultivated to almost any 
 extent, and land easily procured by respectable settlers ; but 
 they would require protection from the Home Government, 
 unless they confined themselves to those districts which have 
 embraced Christianity, in which case they would need no such 
 protection. The scenery of the islands, especially the larger 
 ones, is generally beautiful, and often sublime, particularly in 
 the interior, so far as the country has been penetrated. Little, 
 however, is known respecting the interior, nor would it be at 
 all safe to go far without an armed party. Some of the small 
 islands are very beautiful, furnishing every variety of hill and 
 dale in miniature, and, on the whole, the group is considered 
 one of the finest in the Pacific. The islands may be conveniently
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 315 
 
 divided into three parts, namely, the central, windward, and 
 leeward islands. The central division includes the two large 
 islands called Navetelavu, (large Feejee,) and Vanualavu, (large 
 land,) and several adjacent islands, such as Bau, Vewa, Ovalau, 
 and many others. The islands commencing with Bateke and 
 extending to Turtle Island constitute the windward divi- 
 sion, and those called Tasawa, to the westward, form the 
 leeward division, Kandavu is scarcely included in any of 
 these divisions. Navetelavu is decidedly more populous than 
 Vanualavu. It is supposed to be 300 miles in circumference, 
 and is said to contain a population of at least 100,000. There 
 are five or six independent districts on this island, scarcely at 
 all connected with Bau, but they are not by any means so 
 powerful as the Bau kingdom, nor are the people equal to the 
 Bau men in intelligence and .energy of character. Vanualavu 
 is as large as Navetelavu, but not more than half so well 
 populated, nor does it appear capable of supporting so large a 
 population. The inhabitants are not supposed to be equal to 
 those on the other islands. 
 
 Climate of Feejee. The climate is generally considered good. 
 The natives are not very healthy, but their habits may in a 
 great measure account for that, and strangers, of course, find 
 the change of climate, mode of living, &c., unfavourable to 
 the enjoyment of health. Few acute diseases are found, and 
 epidemics, with the exception of influenza, are rare. The 
 natives are subject to diarrhoea, and the whites have been 
 particularly so during the last few years. Several years ago 
 the island was visited by a kind of Asiatic cholera, which took 
 off great numbers of the inhabitants. The symptoms appear 
 to have been very distressing, and the issue generally fatal 
 in a few hours. The natives in describing it are much 
 excited. They say that such was the prevalence of the disease, 
 that it was difficult to find persons able to bury the dead, and 
 such were the pains connected with it, that many complained 
 bitterly that their friends would not strangle them. The 
 islands are not subject to any malignant fevers, nor to any 
 complaints particularly fearful. Storms are not so frequent as
 
 316 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 in the Friendly Islands. They have had only one violent 
 storm for several years. The best time for visiting the islands 
 is from April to January, and the worst months are March 
 and April. Generally there is stormy weather about the time 
 of the equinoxes, and considerable rain during the summer 
 months, with close sultry weather. The average of the ther- 
 mometer during the months of January, February, and March, 
 in the shade, is about 87. On the whole, the climate is 
 tolerably good, though of course relaxing to persons long 
 accustomed to a temperate one. 
 
 Commerce of the Country. The Feejeeans are decidedly a 
 commercial people, among themselves they are continually 
 carrying on commercial transactions, and in a manner which 
 shows that the custom of exchanging one kind of property for 
 another is very ancient among them. One of their customs, in- 
 teresting in this respect, is, that in most instances one particular 
 district is noted for the manufacture of some particular goods, 
 so that the Feejeeans have their Manchesters, their Sheffields, 
 and their Staffordshires, &c. In the windward islands excellent 
 cloth, kava-bowls, &c., are manufactured. At Nairai, and 
 many other places, mats. At Vanualavu they make excellent 
 fishing-nets. On several parts of Navetelavu there are exten- 
 sive potteries, extensive for Feejee. Here is one of the 
 essentials in a commercial people, each is able to supply the 
 wants of his fellow, and each has peculiar wants to be supplied. . 
 With regard to foreign commerce, there has been as yet very 
 little, but that is increasing. A few cargoes of beche-de-mer 
 are taken from the islands annually. A considerable quantity of 
 tortoiseshell is now collected, and some cargoes of oil for export- 
 ation. A few small vessels trade in curiosities, provisions, &c. ; 
 and of late there has been occasionally a whaler seeking refresh- 
 ment ; but the character of the natives, the difficult navigation, 
 and the general ignorance of masters of vessels, &c., respecting 
 the islands, present a great barrier to commerce. Whales are 
 said to be very plentiful in the group; but the ground is not 
 good, there is so little sea-room, and, considering the extent of 
 the group, good harbours are not very abundant.
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 317 
 
 Cannibalism still prevalent. It prevails everywhere, except 
 in the few places where Christianity has been embraced, 
 there it is entirely extinct. The Missionaries have never 
 known an instance of a professing Christian eating human 
 flesh. They believe the case never occurs. Whatever 
 else Christianity may do for this degraded, yet interesting 
 people, it wipes this stain from their character. " I believe," 
 says one of the Missionaries, " not less than 500 persons have 
 been eaten within fifteen miles of my residence, during the 
 last five years; but no Christian has tasted the horrid morsel. 
 Indeed they never think of such a thing, as far as we can 
 learn." The Feejeeans are undoubtedly among the vilest 
 cannibals. Many of them have assured our Missionaries that 
 they greatly prefer human flesh to any other animal food; 
 and those who have abandoned it cannot but speak in the 
 same tone of its superior excellence as an article of food. It 
 is common among them, when they see a fine man, to say, 
 "What fine eating that man would be!" in the same way 
 that we should speak of an ox. It is quite a mistake to 
 suppose that they eat human flesh merely from revenge. 
 Many of them have only one reason, namely, because they 
 prefer it to other food; others eat it from pride; others, no 
 doubt, in time of war, from revenge. It is positively affirmed 
 by the natives themselves, that, in some parts of Navetelavu, 
 the people eat raw human flesh, and even chew it in their 
 mouths as sailors do tobacco. Sometimes a man is cooked 
 whole, and brought to the Chief with a wig and a head-dress 
 on, in a sitting posture, with a club, or something of the kind, 
 in his hand, so that in the distance he can scarcely be dis- 
 tinguished from a living being. On some occasions they eat 
 their own friends. If a fine young man is shot in war, his 
 own party, if possible, will secure his body ; and, after a mock 
 funeral, will disinter it during the night, and feed upon it. 
 This, however, I believe, is not common. The priests at Bau 
 are not allowed to eat human flesh. Women sometimes do so; 
 and take a pleasure in anointing the mouths of little children 
 with a portion of it, to prevent a disease to which they are
 
 318 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 subject. Some districts in the group do not eat human flesh, 
 for the same reasons that some will not eat fowls, fish, &c., 
 these things being the shrine of their god, in which he is 
 supposed to reside when not in "Bulu," the world of spirits. 
 Sometimes a man is mutilated, and cooked by piecemeal, while 
 stfll alive; and instances have been known of the unhappy 
 person himself being obliged to eat of the food thus provided. 
 Seru cruelly mutilated a man, roasted several pieces of his 
 flesh on the coals, and, shocking to relate, ate them in the poor 
 fellow's presence ; and the late King of Rawa cut off the arm 
 of one of his servants, and compelled her to eat a part of it! 
 " We know," says one of the Missionaries, " that these are both 
 facts;" they are not, however, common occurrences; but I 
 could state worse, very much worse things than these, that 
 have occurred in this land of darkness and blood; but I dare 
 not write them, they are too horrible to be told. 
 
 Character of the Heathen people. It might be judged that 
 little could be said respecting the character of a people so 
 degraded as the Feejeeans evidently are. What character can 
 cannibals have, it might be asked, except that of the wild 
 beasts? We may answer, that the lion and tiger have some 
 qualities beside that of ferocity, which make them very interest- 
 ing, though not very lovely. This is the case with the Feejeeans. 
 They are deeply degraded, but are not without characteristics of 
 an intellectual and even moral kind, which make them interest- 
 ing to the philanthropist and philosopher. They are in general 
 well behaved. Some of the Chiefs are, in their way, very 
 polite, and the common people are very respectful. All forms 
 of etiquette are strictly observed among them. They are 
 even formal in swearing, and seldom act contrary to estab- 
 lished customs, or the laws of good breeding, so far as they 
 understand them. They are also hospitable. They will share 
 what they have with their visitors, strangers, &c., and very 
 often be sparing in their own diet to be able to provide more 
 sumptuously for others. They have also an excellent idea of 
 domestic comfort. In their houses you will see a good fire- 
 place, well supplied with cooking utensils, drinking cups,
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 319 
 
 servers for food, &c., and the women at their posts cooking for 
 the family. Their daily meal is served up with great cleanli- 
 ness, and at the proper time, hot, and well dressed. The 
 husband, however, eats all he wishes first, and the poor wife 
 must be content, or at least appear so, with what is left. Their 
 social character is decidedly better than their moral character. 
 Some of them are the vilest of the vile, and the virtues of 
 many of the most moral will not bear close examination. They 
 will exclaim against murder, but then it is only murder in the 
 abstract, or the murder of their own friends. The man who 
 speaks against it will commit the act he condemns, if he can 
 gain anything by it. The same may be said of stealing, 
 lying, &c. Some crimes, such as adultery, are punished with 
 much severity in a poor man; but a Chief can do as he 
 likes in these matters. No law can punish him. But his 
 offence is treasured up in the minds of his people, and if the 
 opportunity should ever offer they will take vengeance in their 
 own way. Such a thing as conscientious morality is scarcely 
 to be found. If they are good, it is generally for the same 
 reason that they are wicked, namely, from the natural selfish- 
 ness of their own minds. If the desired end may be obtained 
 by speaking the truth, they will do so ; but, if not, they will 
 lie : and so in everything else, virtue is a mere instrument of 
 selfishness. They have seeming good qualities, but no one will 
 depend on them who knows their real nature. They can lay 
 aside honesty, kindness, &c., as easily as their dress, if necessary; 
 and be one moment as gentle as a lamb, and the next as 
 ferocious as a tiger. The extremes of their character are 
 very striking. You would not think that the fine, generous 
 man you are conversing with would go home and enjoy a piece 
 of human flesh, or imbrue his hands with pleasure in the 
 blood of defenceless women and children; and yet such is the 
 fact. 
 
 Means of civilization. "Can any measures," it has been 
 asked, " be taken to civilize the natives, before they embrace 
 Christianity?" I think not. "We have not been able to 
 succeed in any degree in improving the condition , of the
 
 320 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 people," says one of our Missionaries, " excepting so far as we 
 have been the means of their conversion. We cannot even 
 persuade them to send their children to school, until they have 
 abandoned Heathenism. They can see no use for education, 
 except for religious purposes, and oppose this first step to 
 civilization on the ground of its being unnecessary. The same 
 remarks will apply to decent clothing. One of the great ob- 
 jections the Heathen in these parts have to Christianity is, that 
 the persons professing it wear a decent dress, instead of the 
 mere apology for one which they wear. The natives, however, 
 soon acquire a taste for civilization, when they have abandoned 
 Heathenism; but until then they dislike anything that is not 
 Feejeean." They will conform to the customs of others on 
 board a vessel, or in the house of a Missionary ; but they would 
 have a strong objection against adopting those customs as their 
 own. I believe, from all I have heard and seen, that no im- 
 pression of a really favourable kind can be made upon them by 
 anything except Christianity ; and this is, of course, a powerful 
 motive to the Missionaries to do what they can to induce them 
 to embrace the Gospel. It is not one among many ways of 
 doing them good, it is the only way to be relied on. Com- 
 merce may improve them; but then it depends on the way 
 it is conducted. One ship will raise them a little from their 
 degradation; another, by sanctioning many of their present 
 evil habits, will sink them lower. " We have not seen," says 
 another of our Missionaries, " the good effects of foreigners 
 residing amongst the natives. However long they reside, they 
 leave them much the same as they found them." The estimate 
 of natives for foreigners in general is not very high; yet it is 
 much higher than might be supposed from the samples of 
 Europeans and Americans they have had before them. Many 
 of them, in the opinion of the natives, are worse than themselves. 
 Lately they have had a better opportunity of knowing what 
 foreign nations are, and any one may see that they understand 
 a runaway sailor is not to be taken as a fair specimen of 
 European and American society. 
 
 Superstitions influencing the inhabitants of Feejee, The
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 321 
 
 Feejeeans believe that some persons, by exercising certain rites 
 have the faculty of discovering thieves, incendiaries, &c. Such 
 is their fear of being discovered by these agents, that the 
 offenders promptly acknowledge their crime as soon as the 
 ceremony is commenced. Those who do not confess their 
 guilt are frequently killed by the god, or supposed to be so. 
 The sorcerers are not generally priests. Some men pretend to 
 foretell future events by the action of a certain leaf on their 
 bodies, which they place both on their right and left sides. If 
 danger is near, the leaf bites them on the one side ; if success 
 awaits them, the leaf stings them on the other ! It is believed 
 that any person may be killed by the exercise of sorcery upon 
 a small part of his dress, or his food, &c. Ratu Elijah was very 
 much frightened of this : he was once dreadfully alarmed, and 
 became very ill, in consequence of making the discovery that 
 some individual was using incantations against him. They have 
 other superstitions, which keep them in bondage. 
 
 Feejeean Traditions of Scriptural facts. They have the 
 tradition of the Deluge, which differs in point of detail in various 
 parts of the group. At Horo the natives speak of a time when 
 the island was completely covered by water, with the exception 
 of the summit of one of the highest peaks, upon which one of 
 the smallest of the Feejeean birds is said to have alighted to 
 weep over the deluged land. Another account of the Flood is 
 recorded by Captain Wilkes. There is likewise a tradition 
 respecting the Tower of Babel, which appears to be rather 
 local. Mankind resolved upon building a tower which should 
 reach to the moon; but when the edifice had been carried up 
 to a certain height the lower part rotted, and gave way, upon 
 which the people dispersed. 
 
 Form of Courtship observed amongst the people. Amongst 
 the Heathen of Feejee courtship is scarcely known. When a 
 man falls in love with a woman, he acquaints his family and 
 friends with the fact; and they take a whale's tooth, in his 
 name, to the parent or guardian of the attractive party. If the 
 applicant is influential, he seldom fails to obtain his request. 
 In due time the friends of the bridegroom make a feast, the
 
 322 THE SOUTHERN WOKLD. 
 
 invited guests arrive, and the bride is taken to her husband. 
 She has no choice, and generally submits to her fate with 
 grace. Amongst the Christians, the consent of the woman is 
 also sought, and not unfrequently by letter. I heard of one 
 man sending a letter to the object of his choice, in which, 
 amongst other delectable things, he said, "I love you, if you 
 love me ; but not else." " I choose you not for your beauty, for 
 everybody knows you are ugly; but I choose you because of 
 your worth." 
 
 Seasons when Feejee women are in authority. In the month 
 of December, the priests bathe Rotumaibulu, the Ceres of 
 Feejee ; after which the women are allowed by custom to beat 
 and whip their haughty lords. At the time when young 
 men conform to a certain national custom, power to domineer 
 over them is conceded to the women, which they seldom 
 fail to use with telling effect, and occasionally inflict upon 
 them severe wounds. Also, on the death of a great Chief, the 
 women are permitted to club the men, who, being prohibited 
 from making any defence, are sometimes roughly handled. 
 The occasion is seized by many to " pay off old scores," and to 
 have satisfaction for wrongs which may have been inflicted. 
 On such occasions, the hapless husband, who has rendered 
 himself obnoxious to his wife, may be seen running for his life, 
 with his helpmate at his heels, brandishing her club; he pop- 
 ping in at one door, out at another, and using every stratagem 
 to get rid of his pursuer, but in vain ; and ever and anon 
 receiving on his unprotected person the blow of a club wielded 
 by an injured and exasperated wife. If he should, unfortu- 
 nately, have many wives, and they should conspire on the 
 occasion, then woe betide him ! If he escape without a frac- 
 tured skull, he ought to be extremely thankful. 
 
 Difference between the Christian and Heathen Feejeeans. 
 The Christian Feejeean endeavours to provide suitable clothing 
 for himself and family. He sends his children to the school 
 He conducts family- worship twice every day. He plants his 
 food, instead of stealing it. He nurses the sick of his house- 
 hold. He acquaints the Missionary or teacher of any deeds
 
 TUB SOUTHERN WORLD. 323 
 
 of darkness, such as strangling, &c., which are on the eve of 
 being performed. He endeavours to overcome the national 
 thirst for revenge, and refuses to join in war expeditions. 
 
 The Heathen Feejeean makes his wife provide the apparel 
 for the family; but the children are without any covering till 
 they arrive at maturity. The child makes his parent obey him. 
 The grog-bowl is frequently to be seen in the evening. Food 
 is stolen habitually by the parents, who are ashamed of nothing 
 but Feejeean rudeness. The sick are "neglected, being either 
 strangled or laid in an outhouse. The messenger of peace is 
 generally misled, when inquiring of the Heathen as to any 
 crime which is being committed. Revenge is sweeter to the 
 Heathen man than honey. If he does not succeed in accom- 
 plishing his vindictive purpose, he bequeaths it to his children, 
 and requires them to be revenged on the objects of his hatred. 
 In time of war, he refuses to live with his family, but will carry 
 provisions to them day by day, which are thrown down in anger 
 before the door, and he again retires to his little temple, there 
 to sit in sullen silence with other men, using ejaculatory prayer 
 to his god, in which the deity is requested to guide the edge 
 of the club. At the father's death, the children strangle his 
 wife or wives their own mothers ! 
 
 Clothing of the people. Children have no covering, and, as 
 already stated, continue in their primitive state until they are well 
 grown. That which is worn by adults is simply a very scanty 
 girdle, and in some cases a head dress, both of native manufac- 
 ture. No sooner, however, do they lotu, than they are anxious 
 to be decently clothed. In their first attempts, as might be 
 expected, they sometimes make mistakes in arranging their 
 garments. " I have often seen a man," says one of the Mission- 
 aries, "in full dress; coat on first, next the vest, and last of all 
 the shirt." Some kind lady in England sent a beautiful bonnet 
 to the Queen of Rewa; and Her Majesty considered it neces- 
 sary to wear it before the people, that they might see she was 
 known and beloved in a distant and great country. Accord- 
 ingly one morning she came from her palace with an English 
 bonnet on her head, to the utter astonishment of the whole
 
 324 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 town; and whether or not she intended "to set the fashion" 
 is not said, but she appeared with the back of the bonnet 
 where the front should have been. It is true she had seen the 
 Missionaries' wives wearing bonnets according to the English 
 mode, but what was that to her 1 She, as Queen, would wear 
 hers as she liked; and the people admired her quite as much. 
 But all are not so ignorant of the rules of the toilet. Some 
 procure good clothes, and wear them as we do. A local- 
 preacher had a full suit, with the exception of shoes; and, 
 having obtained the latter from one of the Missionaries, he 
 determined to appear the following day in full dress. The 
 Missionary, during the night, was greatly disturbed by a white 
 man, as he supposed, walking up and down the pavement 
 under his bed-room window for many hours, making con- 
 siderable noise with his creaking shoes; but on inquiry it was 
 found that the local-preacher, delighted with the gift he had 
 received, and wishing to instruct his feet in English manners, 
 had been practising" shoe-wearing during the night, that he 
 might appear in public the following day with ease and 
 gracefulness. 
 
 CHAPTEE XY. 
 
 VISIT to the tomb of Mr. Hunt The war at Ovalau Death and cha- 
 racter of Varani Women strangled Heroic conduct of Missionaries to 
 save life Contents of cannibal ovens obtained for interment Customs 
 apparently of Asiatic origin Departure from Vewa Review of the work 
 of the Mission Voyage to Sydney. 
 
 BEFORE leaving Feejee I paid another visit to the tomb of 
 Mr. Hunt. This noble Missionary died at the early age of 
 thirty-six years. His career, though short, was pre-eminently
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 325 
 
 glorious, and terminated in holy triumph. The closing scene 
 is thus described by the Rev. J. Calvert : " On the 26th of 
 September, 1848, Mr. Hunt was easier, but very weak. I read 
 the 17th of John, and prayed. Dm-ing prayer he was much 
 engaged in devotion, and towards the close he began to weep. 
 After we arose from our knees his weeping continued, and 
 increased, until at length he burst out crying aloud, ' Lord, 
 bless Feejee ! save Feejee ! Thou knowest my soul has loved 
 Feejee! My heart has travailed in pain for Feejee!' Mrs. 
 Hunt and I were gratified with the outbursting of what always 
 filled his heart; but, knowing his great weakness would not 
 admit of such exertion, we tried to restrain him. I said, 
 ' The Lord knows you love Feejee : we know it. The Feejeean 
 Christians know it : and the Heathen of Feejee know it. You 
 laboured hard for Feejee when you were strong : now you are 
 weak, and must be silent. God will save Feejee : he is saving 
 Feejee.' For a short time he wept in a subdued tone, but 
 again unable to suppress his powerful feelings, he wept aloud; 
 and grasping me firmly with one hand, and lifting up the other, 
 he cried with great vehemence, ' let me pray once more for 
 Feejee ! Lord, for Christ's sake, bless Feejee ! save Feejee ! 
 save thy servants! save thy people ! save the Heathen in Feejee!' 
 His full heart was overpowered, and he would gladly have 
 agonized beyond his strength, as he had long laboured, in 
 behalf of Feejee; but we affectionately insisted upon his being 
 quiet. On the 26th, he said for two days he could only think 
 of Paul's language, ' I am in a strait betwixt two.' ' For me to 
 live is Christ.' ' If needful for my family and the Church,' he 
 observed, ' I shall be raised up again. I have no choice. I am 
 resigned to the will of God. I am more, I love the will of 
 God.' I said, ' He rules. If we ruled, we should keep you ; but 
 He knows what is best.' He rejoined, ' Yes, He is my ruler, 
 my proprietor. He will soon make it up in many ways.' On 
 the 2d of October, he said, ' I have no anxiety : I trust in Jesus, 
 and feel He is mine, and I wait the end : I await the words of 
 relief, or release. I do not choose either, but feel a calm 
 resignation, and I willingly leave all with the Lord.' At day-
 
 326 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 light on the 4th, Mr. Hunt was exceedingly weak, and we 
 assembled round his bed. He said, 'How strange! I cannot 
 realize that I am dying, and yet you all look as if I were. 
 Well, if this be dying, praise the Lord!' At his request Mr. 
 Lyth read the 14th of John. He engaged with his wonted 
 earnestness in prayer, and desired again and again to be 
 left alone. His mind, which retained all its vigour till 
 the last, was fully engaged, his eyes uplifted, and his lips 
 moving. I said, ' The Lord is faithful, and helps you.' He 
 said, 'Yes.' About 1 o'clock he remarked, 'It is a very 
 solemn thing to die, very solemn !' I said, ' Mr. Wesley, in 
 dying, clung to Jesus; and you do the same.' ' Yes,' he replied 
 with solemnity, ' I cleave to Jesus, and I am right. I have 
 nothing else to look to : He is all I have to trust in. If I look 
 from Him, I am in a vortex, have doubts and condemnation. 
 But I have full faith in Him. I have peace and pardon through 
 Him. / have no disturbance at all.' His whole soul was 
 engaged with the Lord. He cried aloud, ' Lord, my Saviour ! 
 Jesus !' More than usual earnestness marked his countenance. 
 Shortly after this, wrestling with the God of all grace and 
 consolation, his complacent smile bespoke gratitude and joy. 
 Then he appeared to be engaged in meditation. Again he 
 spoke, ' I want strength to praise Him abundantly. I am very 
 happy.' About 8 o'clock in the morning, after being 
 informed of the approach of death, he said to Mrs. Hunt, ' 
 for one more baptism !' She now asked him, ' Have you had 
 a fresh manifestation, my dear 1 ?' 'Yes, Hallelujah! Praise 
 Jesus ' Then he added, ' I don't depend on this,' (significantly 
 shaking his head,) ' I bless the Lprd, I trust in Jesus.' Soon 
 after he exclaimed, ' Now He is my joy. I thought I should 
 have entered heaven singing, Jesus and salvation Now 
 I shall go singing, Jesus, salvation, and glory! eternal 
 glory T He then cried with much devotional ardour, 
 'Hallelujah! Hallelujah! Hallelujah!' He delivered messages 
 to the Chiefs, people, his brethren and sisters; prayed for his 
 children, desiring them to obey and imitate their mother; 
 affectionately commended his much-beloved partner to the
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 327 
 
 guidance of Divine Providence ; prayed for God's blessing on a 
 faithful servant who had been with him ever since his arrival 
 in Feejee; and then desired me to pray. About 3 o'clock, 
 P.M., he grasped my hand, then turned on his side, and after 
 breathing with difficulty for twenty minutes, his spirit departed 
 to eternal blessedness." 
 
 Leaving the tomb of the faithful Missionary with mingled 
 feelings, my attention was directed to a very different subject, 
 which was producing much excitement, and might lead to the 
 direst results. It was the war then raging on the contigu- 
 ous island of Ovalau. This war, in connection with which 
 Varani had lost his valuable life, originated immediately 
 through the burning of Levuka, the principal town on the 
 island of Ovalau, for which the Vewa people were blamed; 
 and it was believed, or at any rate stated, that the Bau Chief 
 was also privy to its being burnt. 
 
 The Vewa people were justly aggrieved with the conduct of 
 those of Levuka, who were taken by their Chief to Malake, 
 an island politically connected with Vewa. They went in the 
 Chief's canoe, in connection with an expedition of white people 
 who left Levuka in several small vessels to rescue the persons 
 and property of two white men, who had been taken on shore 
 there, and whose vessel (on slightly striking) with its cargo 
 had been seized by the natives of that isle. On their way to 
 Malake the expedition met the white men, their two women, 
 and a half-caste boy, on board a schooner, coming up the coast 
 to Ovalau. The Captain and his Mate returned with the 
 expedition to Malake, in order to identify the persons who had 
 ill-treated and plundered them, and to give the necessary 
 information respecting the property of which they had thus 
 been robbed. It was thought by many that the two principal 
 offenders would be brought bound to Levuka, and that as much 
 as possible of the lost property would be obtained from the 
 natives. On the Sunday morning the whole party went on 
 shore. They were attended by a native teacher, who was 
 directed and encouraged to assure the offending parties, that 
 as the lives of the whites had been spared, no native's life would
 
 328 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 be sacrificed. The Malake people were thus put off their 
 guard, and became an easy prey. One of the principal 
 offenders was quietly bound, and sent from the town, professedly 
 to be put on board the " Jeune Lucie," belonging to a Capt. 
 Smith, of Sydney; but, when just outside the town, he was 
 treacherously clubbed. Others met a similar fate, and altogether 
 fourteen were killed. The town was pillaged, and burnt by the 
 white men. Thirteen persons were captured, and brought away 
 to Levuka, and were retained by the whites and natives. 
 
 Varani, and the Bau Chief, by the advice of Mr. Calvert, 
 resolved to refrain themselves, and to restrain their people 
 from revenging the murder and capture of so many of their 
 subjects, and to await the arrival of a ship of war, hoping that 
 farther destruction of human life might be prevented. Of this 
 Varani informed the white people, desiring them meanwhile 
 not to go to any of the Vewa dominions with their boats; and 
 to exercise great caution and vigilance in sailing in any part 
 of Feejee, as he could not guarantee the good conduct of 
 the Feejeeans in their exasperated state. 
 
 Whilst matters were in this condition, Levuka was des- 
 troyed by fire, when much valuable property was burnt, and 
 one child perished in the flames. The Bau Chief, sympa- 
 thizing with the sufferers, went over to Levuka; but being 
 suspected of guilty knowledge of the affair, the Levuka 
 Chief would not consent to see him; and a mountaineer, 
 had he not been prevented, would have killed him. 
 
 Mr. Calvert, hearing that Vewa was suspected, and being 
 fully persuaded that it was free from, blame, went to Ovalau, 
 partly to consult with Mr. J. Waterhouse about the removal 
 of Mr. Hazlewood, but mainly to state most distinctly his full 
 conviction that Vewa was falsely accused. This he did; but 
 Ovalau had generally revolted. The Bau dominions there 
 were already under the direction of the Tui Levuka. The 
 white people were suffering, and exasperated; and while Mr. 
 Calvert was there, they made a collection of property to be 
 given to the mountaineers, to induce them to revolt from 
 Vewa, with which they had long been politically connected.
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 329 
 
 It was said that the white men gave 100 whales' teeth, 10 kegs 
 of powder, 3 pigs of lead, 4 axes, and 3 muskets, which was 
 an unusually great amount of property, and highly calculated 
 to gain the purpose sought. The Tui Levuka added 2 muskets 
 to the amount. 
 
 The property was taken by the mountaineers, who very 
 speedily declared their oneness with Levuka and the white 
 people in the murder of ten persons. It was expected that 
 Moturiki would also easily be gained. It is an important 
 island belonging to Bau, and contiguous to Ovalau. The Bau 
 Chief was anxious to retain the possession of that island; but 
 it was in danger from the mountaineers of Ovalau, though it 
 should desire to maintain its allegiance to Bau. 
 
 At this crisis Varani felt his attachment to his old friend 
 the Ban Chief strengthened. He also knew the probability of 
 the matter becoming immensely important, endangering both 
 Vewa and Bau : and although his brother had not been 
 allowed to land at Ovalau, Varani resolved to go to his people, 
 the mountaineers, that, if possible, he might turn them from 
 the purpose of revolt, and save the land from a sanguinary 
 war. Mr. Calvert, on being informed of his purpose, advised 
 him not to go. He told him that his life was sought; but 
 Varani entreated Mr. Calvert not to hinder him, as he had 
 determined to risk his life; and further requested that, in the 
 event of his death, that faithful Missionary would attend to 
 his family. They prayed together, and the Christian Chief 
 departed, to return no more. 
 
 Early the following day, after praying two or three times on 
 their way, Varani and his party arrived at Lovoni, the. place 
 of their destination. Most of the Chiefs and people were from 
 home, presenting the body of a man they had killed to the 
 Tui Levuka. The principal Chief that remained received 
 Varani kindly, professed true friendship, and provided food. 
 A messenger was sent to those who were absent; and the Tui 
 Levuka entreated that the mountaineers would kill Varani. 
 The head Chief objected; but the man who had previously 
 wished to kill Thakombau, (the Bau Chief,) was bent upon
 
 330 THE SOUTHERN WOULD. 
 
 Varani's death. He was on very intimate terms with the Tui 
 Levuka, who gave some muskets, a young female, and promised 
 three other women if the deed could be accomplished. A 
 party consented, and hastened to Lovoni in the night. Next 
 morning, at sunrise, they were assembled in a temple near to 
 the place where Varani had slept. They watched their oppor- 
 tunity, and the Vewa Chief, on passing into the town, was 
 fired upon and killed. Of the party accompanying him one 
 only escaped. Varani and siz others perished; two were local- 
 preachers, one of whom was cooked and eaten by the moun- 
 taineers. Varani, two of his brothers, and a native teacher, 
 were taken to Levuka; and Mr. Waterhouse, after much oppo- 
 sition, was allowed to wrap their bodies in new mats, and bury 
 them in one grave. 
 
 Thus ended the life of perhaps by far the most remarkable 
 man in Feejee. He was a remarkable man as a Heathen; the 
 number, frequency, and magnitude of his crimes were more 
 than has been common for the worst even of Feejeeans. But 
 he was no less remarkable as a Christian. His name was 
 France, Varani being the Feejeean pronounciation of France, 
 which name was given to him after he had barbarously slain 
 the Captain and crew of a French vessel at Vewa. While yet 
 a Heathen, contrary to the custom of the country, he learned 
 to read, and it was whilst reading of the sufferings and death 
 of Christ that he felt the attractions of the Cross. His hard 
 heart melted, and he cried, "Jesus, why didst thou suffer all 
 this for me!" From that time he became concerned for the 
 salvation of his soul. The Chief of Bau heard of his desire to 
 embrace Christianity, and sent a messenger to him to say, that 
 if he lotued he would eat him! This kept Varani back for 
 some time, but his convictions increased, and he was afraid 
 that he would die and perish. Often, as he afterwards told 
 the Missionary, has he fallen on his knees in the battle-field, 
 to pray to God to have mercy upon him. At last he deter- 
 mined at all hazards to make an open profession of Christianity. 
 He sent to the Chief to say, that he feared him, but he feared 
 Jehovah much more; that it would be a great thing if he
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 331 
 
 killed him, but it would be a much greater if Jehovah was to 
 cast him into hell; and added, " I am going to lotu, and you 
 will perhaps kill me; but you will repent of the deed when 
 you embrace Christianity." It was Good Friday, and with joy 
 the people followed Varani to J;he chapel, when he bowed the 
 knee, and called upon the name of the Lord. It was a day of 
 great rejoicing. 
 
 On the same day a superior Chief named Ro Mai Boli, who 
 had fled from Bau, was killed. The Bau people professing to 
 forgive him for the crime of which he had been accused, 
 invited him to return. He complied, and was treacherously 
 slain. It is a custom in Feejee when a Chief dies to strangle 
 his wives, that they may accompany him into the other world : 
 nor is it considered a cruelty, but a kindness to the surviving 
 wives te put them to death. Generally the women desire to 
 die, request to be strangled, and in some instances, where 
 that request has not been complied with, suicide has been the 
 result. The wives of the murdered Chief, ten in all, hearing 
 that their husband had been murdered, immediately left Vewa 
 for Bau, that they might die with him. On their arrival the 
 Chiefs refused to strangle them. It being considered a great 
 disgrace for a man, and especially a Chief, to go alone into 
 the invisible world, they had determined to spare his wives 
 that he might appear in another state unattended and dis- 
 graced. The unhappy women being thus grievously disap- 
 pointed, returned to Vewa and applied to Varani, their only 
 remaining friend, as they esteemed him, to take away their 
 lives. " I was in his house," says Mr. Watsford, " when they 
 came in weeping and wailing, and heard them in the most 
 affecting and earnest language entreat Varani to strangle them. 
 Varani replied, ' You are too late. If it had been some time 
 ago, I would have done it for you cheerfully; but I am now a 
 Christian, and have renounced all such heathen practices.' " 
 
 Thakombau was not, however, going to lose his friend, his 
 greatest warrior, without a struggle. He issued orders that no 
 food should be brought to Vewa; and he gave the Missionaries 
 to understand that he would punish the fotfw-people, and Varani
 
 332 THE SOUTHERN WOULD. 
 
 in particular. One morning, therefore, Thakombau, and about 
 one hundred of his warriors, were seen coming into the town, 
 painted and ready for war. They went direct to the Mission- 
 House, and seemed prepared for some dreadful work. The 
 Missionaries retired to their studies to pray to God to spare 
 his people. Varani gave orders that no opposition should be 
 made, and then went over to his uncle, as he said, to die for 
 Jesus Christ. The warriors, after wandering about Vewa for 
 some time, prepared to return to Bau. The hand of the Lord 
 was undoubtedly upon them. When the Chief was passing 
 the house where Varani was, the latter came out and requested 
 the King to allow him to carry his club. Pie did so : " and as 
 we saw the Vewa Chief," says Mr. Watsford, " walking after 
 the King, and carrying the club which was to have knocked 
 his own brains out, we could have shouted, ' The Lord sitteth, 
 King for ever! He restraineth the wrath of man.'" 
 
 Soon after this Varani determined to put away all his wives 
 but one, and marry her. Some of the old people tried to per- 
 suade him to keep the other women as servants; but he said, 
 " You are on the devil's side. You want to tempt me to sin. 
 It is easy for me to break my own wood, and draw my own 
 water, but I cannot sin against God." He gave all up but one, 
 to whom he was publicly married. He refused, as did all his 
 people, to have anything more to do with the wars; and when 
 the Chief of Bau sent for him to go to war, he refused. " I 
 was on board the ' Calypso,' " says Mr. Watsford, " when an 
 attempt was made to seize the murderers of two white men. 
 Varani was on board as pilot, and the Captain wished him to 
 go with the marines, and lead them to the town; but he 
 refused, Baying, ' I have fought too much ; I have done now : 
 I will have nothing to do with it.'" The people have no 
 swords to beat into ploughshares, but the principle of doing so 
 was there when Varani, soon after his conversion, set sail in 
 his large war-canoe, carrying the Missionary of the Cross to 
 preach Christ to the perishing Heathen. Often had the Mis- 
 sionaries seen his canoe sail on errands of cruelty and blood; 
 but with different feeling did they now behold the same canoe
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 333 
 
 as it moved from the shore, crowded with persons eager for the 
 conversion of their fellow-countrymen, and willingly hazarding 
 their lives for its accomplishment. At the proper time Varani 
 was baptized, and named Elijah. He continued to grow in 
 grace, and in the knowledge of Jesus Christ our Lord. Some 
 time afterwards he was appointed a class-leader and a local- 
 preacher, which offices he filled with credit to himself and 
 benefit to others. When the Rev. John Hunt was on his 
 death-bed, special prayer-meetings were held in Vewa; and 
 Varani's prayer in one of these will not soon be forgotten. He 
 believed that God was taking his servant away because of 
 some unfaithfulness on their part; and he cried, " Lord, we 
 know we are very bad, but spare thy servant ! If one must 
 die, take me, or take ten of us; but spare thy servant to preach 
 Christ to the people!" Great was the change which religion 
 wrought in this man. The cruel cannibal became a kind, 
 sympathizing, sincere friend. The lion was changed into a 
 lamb; and he who had laboured to destroy men's lives, 
 now did all that in him lay to save them. It was with the 
 noble object of preventing war that Varani went to Ovalau, 
 where he and his associates, as already stated, were cruelly 
 murdered. 
 
 "Perhaps," says Mr. Calvert, "he could not have died as 
 well at any future period; and may it not be a very righteous 
 thing, that a man who had so fearfully used instruments of 
 death should so finish his earthly career ? " 
 
 The Rev. Joseph Waterhouse, stationed at Ovalau, a most 
 heroic and effective Missionary, gives the following account of 
 the war, in a letter to his brother in Van Diemen's Land : 
 
 " Ovalau has revolted from Bau. Elijah, or Varani, our great 
 champion, was killed in endeavouring to prevent the rebellion 
 of his own people, the mountaineers of Ovalau. When the 
 Lovoni people killed him, they searched the teacher's house in 
 order to kill poor old Joshua and his wife ; but, providentially, 
 they were both absent, having come to our house the pre- 
 vious day, being rather alarmed lest anything should happen to 
 us; they came, said they, 'that we might die together.' After
 
 334: THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 haying murdered Elijah and his party, the wild men of the 
 woods proposed ransacking our house, but did not carry their 
 purpose into execution. 
 
 " Soon after this the brig ' Spec ' arrived from Sydney, with 
 two natives on board, one of whom had been taken to Sydney 
 by Mr. Watsford. The mountaineers wished to drag them from 
 our house, and kill them. I sent them on to V-ewa one dark 
 night, in the small boat, and the next day the savages made 
 their appearance, having come fully bent on our natives' 
 destruction. Fortunately our schooner was with us under 
 repair. Mrs. Binner being very ill, and nearly frightened to 
 death by the awful sights, mutilated corpses dragged fiend- 
 ishly before our houses, and danced over in our presence, for 
 we were sometimes involuntary witnesses of horrid cruelties, 
 we decided upon their temporary removal to Lakemba, which 
 was carried into effect. We were thus left alone, without 
 being able to hold intercourse with any other station; and we 
 knew not the night we should be burned down. For fourteen 
 days I reposed during part of the day, and kept watch at 
 night. I now determined on the removal of my wife and child 
 to a more safe position as soon as the schooner should return. 
 But before the vessel arrived, the brig 'Corsair' came in, 
 and Mr. Calvert in her. He thought Ovalau ought to be 
 given up for the present; and, when the schooner came from 
 Lakemba, we received letters from Mr. Lyth strongly urging 
 us to run away to Lakemba. But I could not bring my mind 
 to it. We had, probably, been the instruments of saving a 
 hundred lives; for the first time in Ovalau the dead had been 
 buried, having been handed over to me for sepulture; and 
 our desertion of the post would perhaps lead to the. extermi- 
 nation of the Christians. I could not go. Besides, had we not 
 come with our lives in our hands ? Were we not to expect 
 that some would fall before Feejee could be renovated ? If 
 things were bad whilst we mixed with the people, and en- 
 deavoured to prevent harm, would they not be ten times worse 
 if we were absent, and all restraint removed? True, a stray 
 shot might level me, and lay me low; but would not many an
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 335 
 
 Australian step forward to occupy my post ? Yes : and stay I 
 would. Then Mr. Calvert wished me to go to Bau, as Tui 
 Viti, or Thakombau, was now willing for a Missionary to 
 reside there. I said I was willing to go even there if Mr. 
 Calvert would do his part, and occupy Ovalau. We therefore 
 carried this into execution, Mrs. Calvert and family remaining, 
 at present, at Vewa." 
 
 In conversing with the Missionaries I received information 
 on another subject, if possible still more appalling, and much 
 calculated to excite Christian sympathy for the women of Feejee. 
 About ten months ago, Tanoa, the aged King of Bau, died. That 
 event having been for some time expected, the Mission- 
 aries fearing that^on its occurrence several women would be 
 strangled had taken many preliminary steps to prevent that 
 dreaded result. Mr. Calvert exerted himself in various ways 
 with untiring zeal, for two or three years, to save those women. 
 Captains of men-of-war, visiting Feejee, were taken by him to 
 Bau for that purpose, hoping that their influence might be 
 beneficial ; and it is but just to say, they did all they could 
 in seconding Mr. Calvert's views, and in sustaining him in his 
 laudable efforts to save human life. As the King drew near 
 his end, it was known that many of the women would have to 
 die. Mr. Calvert, now aided by Mr. Watsford, redoubled his 
 humane and Christian efforts, frequently visiting the young 
 Chief, the son of the dying King, and employing all possible 
 legitimate means to obtain a promise from him that the wives 
 of his father should live; but in vain. The day before the 
 King died, Mr. Calvert was compelled to leave for Ovalau, and 
 Mr". Watsford had now to struggle alone. He went to Bau the 
 same day, and found the people preparing the dresses for those 
 appointed to die. All the friends of the women were there, 
 bidding them farewell. He faithfully told them of the awful 
 sin they were committing, in thus desiring to be hurried 
 into God's presence. He went to see the young Chief, and 
 laboured until near midnight to induce him to change his pur- 
 pose ; but without effect. " I went home," says Mr. Watsford, in 
 a letter addressed to me, " with a heavy heart about midnight,
 
 336 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 and returned to the city of darkness and blood early the next 
 morning. When I arrived, I found the old Chief dead, and 
 the work of destruction begun. I ran to the door where the 
 young Chief was, and as I entered they were just pulling the 
 rope which was on the neck of the second wife. I fixed my 
 eye on the Chief, and begged him to spare the other women; 
 for a moment I thought I was about to succeed, but it was 
 only for a moment, for on went the work of destruction till 
 five lifeless bodies were laid before me. All this time I was 
 pleading with the Chief, but his only reply was, ' Five have to 
 die, but had it not been for you Missionaries, fifteen would 
 have been under the number.' Everything was done in the 
 coolest manner. There was no crying. Thousands looked on, 
 admiring the dresses of those who were to die. Four of the 
 women wished to die, would not live. The strangling-rope 
 was generally adjusted by a son or near relative, and they 
 were the principal actors in the strangling. The women 
 seemed to die without a struggle. The face was covered, and 
 a person pressed upon the head while the strong Chiefs pulled 
 the rope. My heart sickened within me as I stood trying in 
 vain to save these poor women, murdered before my eyes, and 
 I thought, could our friends at home see this, how they would 
 feel, and labour, and pray, and give, to save poorFeejee. I felt 
 thankful, however, that ten lives, at least, were saved through 
 the exertions of the Missionaries; and thought it was no 
 little thing that I, a Missionary, could stand there, facing that 
 lion of a man, and telling him of his sin and his awful danger. 
 The time was when I should have shared the fate, or a worse 
 one than that of the poor women, for daring to interfere with 
 an ancient and popular, though wicked and cruel, custom. Our 
 exertions in this case, though but partially successful, will tell 
 favourably upon Feejee. As I walked through Bau ^that day, 
 I heard many say, 'How these Missionaries love us!'" Well 
 might they so express themselves, seeing that Mr. Calvert, in his 
 earnestness and anxiety to save the doomed women, had 
 offered one of his fingers as a sacrifice; and Mr. Watsford 
 had proposed to give all he possessed in the world, save
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 337 
 
 his wife and children, for the lives of those appointed 
 to die. 
 
 The practice of strangling still continues, but not to the 
 same extent. Wherever Christianity gains influence, that horrid 
 custom, to which the people cling with great tenacity, gives 
 way. Even where our Missionaries cannot personally visit, 
 the light of the Gospel has to some extent been diffused, and 
 exercised a preventing influence. Perhaps it may not be 
 extensively known, that though a woman, or women, are gene- 
 rally strangled on the death of a Chief, many of the survivors, 
 relatives of the deceased husband, to whom the women would 
 belong in the event of their living, are most anxious that they 
 should be spared. The relatives of the women, however, in 
 honour of the deceased, urge them to die, and act as their 
 executioners ! 
 
 In connection with the strangling of women, our Mis- 
 sionaries frequently evince the most exalted Christian heroism. 
 We have seSn the conduct of Messrs. Calvert and Watsford; 
 let us now look at that of Mr. Joseph Waterhouse. In a letter 
 to his brother, he says, " I thank God for the prospect of an 
 Australian Methodist Conference. The world requires it. I 
 am more of a Methodist than ever; but I am for a Methodism 
 startling hell itself by its aggressive movements. Onwards, my 
 brother ; lay a good foundation for your successors. I hope the 
 islands will be connected with the Conference. Shall I now 
 turn to the sickly subject of Feejeean horrors? On the 20th 
 April, 1853, after a night passed in great pain and suffering, I 
 received an intimation that Kambo, the Chief of Totongo, a 
 town half a mile off, was near death. I went to see if I could 
 do anything for him, but it was evidently too late; the king of 
 terrors was about to claim the hardened old cannibal. I 
 returned home, and selected a very large whale's tooth, about 
 two pounds in weight, in order to endeavour to prevent the 
 strangling, which, without the interposition of Providence, would 
 take place on the death of Kambo. Having, in accordance with 
 Feejeean custom, presented the tooth to the relatives of the 
 dying Chieftain, I pleaded with them, and entreated them to 
 
 q
 
 338 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 desist from carrying out their intention with reference to the 
 old woman, who was all painted and dressed up for the occa- 
 sion, and ready to die. After a long discussion they gave 
 a constrained consent to my request, and then accepted the 
 tooth. I returned to the Chief's house, and patiently waited 
 the issue. In about an hour's time, it was reported that a 
 mountaineer Chief had arrived, and that he would insist upon 
 the strangling being performed. Unwillingly I left the woman, 
 placing her in the charge of a native teacher, whilst I went to 
 make all right with the wild men of the woods. In the midst 
 of our conversation a shout was heard, 'She's being strangled!' 
 Immediately I rushed into a house adjoining that in which the 
 Chief was dying, as it was evident the deed of darkness was 
 being perpetrated in that direction. Judge of my consterna- 
 tion at finding that the natives were strangling the woman 
 whose life had been promised me ! I was beside myself with 
 excitement, and, knocking over some -of the murderers, I 
 helped the teacher to remove the native cloth from the neck 
 of the poor creature. We then endeavoured to get her outside 
 the house in order to restore her respiration, but the fiends 
 held her feet, and nearly separated her body into two parts. 
 We held her head and shoulders, the murderers clutched her 
 lower extremities. We gave way, and then they essayed to put 
 her neck out of joint. They pulled me away, but I broke from 
 them, and protected the victim of their cruelty. She came 
 to herself, and I asked if she wished to be strangled. She 
 replied, ' No : ' but the wretches still insisted on it. Then the 
 natives began to struggle with me again, but we got the 
 apparently lifeless corpse into a corner, and guarded it: the 
 native teacher, three Feejeean women, and myself, seconded 
 by Him who is always with his people, even unto the ends of 
 the earth, against fifty men and women supported by the 
 evil one. Of the scene no adequate conception can be formed. 
 Again and again did the opponents attempt to carry their point, 
 and again and again did I keep them at bay by myself, my 
 companions being afraid to do much more than sanction me. 
 At length the enemy received an encouragement, which was
 
 T1IE SOUTHERN WORLD. 339 
 
 almost equal to a reinforcement, from the proceedings of one 
 who, from his colour, must be ranked as a white man, but who, 
 by his conduct, seemed to be Satan personified. An English- 
 man rushed in, and exclaimed in native, 'You and the 
 teacher leave her alone ! Let these people please them- 
 selves. Friends, proceed with the strangling ! ' The natives 
 came on again with fresh determination, but were once 
 more foiled. At length they found that they could not accom- 
 plish their hellish purpose without having recourse to arms. 
 They went and brought their clubs, brandishing them over my 
 head; yet, with all their bravery, there was not a man but 
 quailed before me, because he knew he was doing wrong. I 
 then pleaded my cause again, during which interval a message 
 came from the mountain Chief, that they were to leave me 
 alone, and -to spare the woman. I at once sent for another 
 large tooth, which I presented, and the woman was saved. We 
 cupped her in the neck; she recovered, and is now living. 
 One of the women so anxious that she should be strangled 
 was her own daughter !" 
 
 More horrors were crowded upon my attention, in reply to 
 various inquiries which I made. Amongst many others much 
 more revolting, the following case may be mentioned. It 
 appeared that about four months previously, early one morning 
 Mr. Calvert was informed that eighteen persons of the Da ni 
 Nakelo had been taken to Bau, to be eaten, some of whom were 
 still living. He hastened to the spot, and arrived just after 
 sunrise. One had escaped in the night, twelve were dead, and 
 five were still alive. They were laid and sitting before the 
 temples at Lasakau and Soso, the parts of Bau belonging to 
 the Fishermen who had killed and taken them. "It was 
 harrowing to my feelings," says Mr. Calvert, " to see the mangled 
 bodies, some having cords round their necks by which they had 
 been strangled; and heart-rending to be looked upon with 
 imploring anxiety by those who were still alive." The faithful 
 Missionary proceeded at once to Tui Viti, or Thakombau, who 
 was about being appointed head Chief, with the title of Vu ni 
 Valu, (origin of war,) in the place of his father, who died on the 
 
 Q2
 
 340 THE SOUTHERN WOULD. 
 
 8th of December, 1852, when his son strangled five of his 
 father's principal wives, as already stated. He received Mr. 
 Calvert with great calmness, who, opening the Missionary Notices 
 for 1850, page 68, pointed out to him the account of the suc- 
 cessful application made by Mrs. Lyth and Mrs. Calvert to his 
 father for the lives of those who had been taken alive by the 
 former Chief of the Fishermen. According to the usual custom, 
 he laid a large whale's tooth before him, and requested the Tui 
 Viti to do as his father had previously done, by sparing the 
 lives of those still alive. He then showed him the letter, (Mis- 
 sionary Notices, page 73, for 1851,) in which is stated his 
 promise to Lieutenant Pollard, of H.M.S. " Bramble," made on 
 a similar occurrence to the present, a visit by the King of 
 Somosomo, that he would not allow any more human beings 
 to be cooked at Bau ; and again laid a whale's tooth before the 
 Chief, entreating him to allow all that were dead to be buried, 
 agreeably to his promise made to the Commander of H.M. 
 ship of war. Mr. Calvert pointed out to him the propriety of 
 following the customs of other countries in sparing captives, 
 and the abomination of the Feejeean practice of eating their 
 kind; and also stated that the day of his appointment to 
 the Chieftainship would be auspicious if it could be spoken 
 of and renowned as the day of his introducing the burying 
 of enemies slain, and the sparing of the lives of captives. 
 
 He firmly refused to comply with the request; and urged 
 the base manner in which the killed and captive had treated 
 him, taking the sails of his large canoe, stealing his pigs, &c. ; 
 and said it was impossible for him to sit still whilst they were 
 rebelling. Mr. Calvert told him he much disliked their revolt, 
 and their treatment of him and his property; but that it was 
 high time to abandon those Feejeean practices, which he knew 
 were wrong. On referring to the strangling of the five women, 
 Mr. Calvert said that his sparing the prisoners of war, and 
 burying the dead, would somewhat counteract the disgrace of 
 that crime, and would show that he was disposed to follow the 
 light, and the better feelings of his mind and heart, and give up 
 the disgraceful practices of Feejee. The servant of God warned
 
 THE SOUTHERN WOULD. 341 
 
 him of the evil, and the detestation in which his conduct would 
 be held by enlightened countries, should he persist in his 
 refusal. He replied, " When a ship of war arrives, I will go on 
 board, and get you to explain to them the cause of my thus 
 treating people ; and had not the Somosomo people been here, 
 you might have buried them." 
 
 " On my arrival at sunrise," says Mr. Calvert in a letter with 
 which he kindly favoured me, " ovens were being heated for 
 the cooking of bodies, five being still alive. Tui Viti at once 
 said I might go to the Chief Fisherman, and ask him to spare 
 their lives; and to the King of Somosomo, and ask him not to 
 eat the dead. Knowing the uselessness of that, I refused. He 
 then said, I alone can save the living, and have the dead 
 buried. What I prefer I do, and none can interfere. Hearing 
 that one more was killed, I again urged him to send orders not 
 to kill any more. He would not. Shortly a report reached us 
 that all were killed. I then said, ' Tonga reports that all are 
 killed. I shall now depart. My hands are clean. I have 
 entreated you to imitate your father in sparing lives, and to 
 fulfil your promise to the Commander of a British ship of war, 
 and you have refused.' On going to Lasakau, I found the five 
 still alive. I went to the Chief Fisherman, who, on observing 
 my approach, moved off. I hastened, and found him in the 
 temple. He was confused; and during my stay the glee of 
 the heathens was damped, and they were not able to rise to 
 the demonish pitch which threatened on my arrival. He said, 
 'The man who was shared to me I have saved as my offering to 
 you. Tui Viti presented a whale's tooth to us, and requested 
 us to kill some: fearing him, we complied.' I went to the 
 five living, two of whom were fearfully wounded, having large 
 gashes in their heads, and appeared insensible. Three of them, 
 though wounded, were quite sensible, and tremblingly awaiting 
 their fate. The Lasakauans were dressing and ornamenting 
 themselves for the presentation of the bodies to the Bau Chief. 
 I conversed with these three; told them that I had besought 
 the Chief in vain on their behalf. I exhorted them as guilty 
 and polluted sinners to trust in that almighty and all-loving
 
 342 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 Saviour, who saved the thief on the cross, and who was able 
 to save their souls from guilt and hell, and raise their bodies, 
 though eaten by cannibals, and unite both body and soul in 
 glory for ever. As the men were still alive, I was unwilling 
 to leave. Not finding Tui Viti, I went to see the Soso Chief, 
 and two of his people, who had been wounded in the affray. 
 I also went to the King of Somosomo, and spoke to him 
 against the horrible practice of eating human flesh. He said, 
 they did not wish to eat it, and he should rejoice if I could 
 prevail upon the Bau Chief not to send the bodies to him ; but, 
 if sent, they dared not refuse to eat, as they were deeply sub- 
 ject to Bau, and in great fear. I told him the practice would 
 have to be given up, and the sooner the better; that none of 
 the improper and abominable customs of Feejee ought to be 
 adhered to, but all abandoned, now that light had come to 
 discover to them the evil of their practices, and direct them 
 aright. He was somewhat affected, and favourably disposed. 
 
 " In going towards the Vata ni Tawaki, (the principal 
 Heathen temple,) a great shout throughout Bau announced 
 that Tui Viti had drank the yang-gona of the Vu ni Valu, 
 and was installed into the office of head Chief. Previously to 
 the shout, while the drink was preparing, there was a general 
 stillness, no one being allowed to walk about. A shout from 
 Lasakau now announced that the preparation being completed, 
 they were dragging the bodies from the temples of each family 
 to the principal temple belonging to the Fishermen. The killed 
 and the dying, without any covering, were dragged on their 
 backs, in the midst of numerous spectators, of all ages, and 
 ranks, and of both sexes. When they approached the founda- 
 tion of the temple, the head of each victim was pitched with 
 force against a large stone, on which were left marks of blood. 
 The bodies were piled together. The glee was considerable, 
 but manifestly restrained, while I looked, and reproved. Some 
 ceremonies passed of presenting spears to the youths who had 
 killed the men. They were loaded with native cloth, and 
 painted over with shining yellow. These youths would be 
 honoured with new names. Pieces of reed or stick were inter-
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 343 
 
 changed between the priests and those who presented the 
 bodies; after which the priest gave a smart blow upon the 
 body of one of the slain. They then danced and sang round 
 Lasakau, marching in a body, waving fans, and brandishing 
 clubs. The bodies were now dragged to the principal Bau 
 temple, and there presented to the Chief. A whale's tooth, 
 and pieces of yang-gona, were given to the Lasakau and Soso 
 Chiefs, as an acknowledgment and thanks for killing the 
 enemies of Bau. At the Bau temple, Koroi Thokanautu asked 
 if I would have one of the bodies for food; when I publicly 
 expressed my pain at the gross insult. 
 
 " About noon I left Bau, feeling tired and faint; but, fatigued 
 as I was, I thought it my duty before I returned home to go 
 to W. Owen, Esq., merchant, of Adelaide, who was anchored 
 near in the ' Brigantine' packet, and who had brought the 
 Somosomo Chief to Bau. Both Mr. and Mrs. Owen having 
 shown great kindness to our cause in Feejee, I was not sur- 
 prised to meet with true sympathy, and readiness to interfere 
 in any way they could to prevent cannibalism, and to show 
 their utter abhorrence of Feejeean practices, cheerfully risking 
 any loss they might sustain in their trading by such interference. 
 They both prepared for Bau, wishing me to accompany them. 
 I doffed off my black cloth, and got attired in lighter 
 apparel, kindly supplied by Mr. Owen. On reaching Bau we 
 found that five ovens were filled with the limbs of the slain, 
 and that the heads and trunks had been cast into the sea. 
 Mr. and Mrs. Owen wished me to state to the Somosomo Chief 
 that they were much grieved to hear that many bodies had 
 been presented to him, which they found were being cooked; 
 that they hoped to have been on friendly and trading terms 
 with him and his people for many years; but that if he ate, or 
 allowed to be eaten, human flesh, neither he nor his people 
 would be allowed to return in the packet. The Chief, in 
 reply, said that none should be eaten. Mr. Owen requested 
 the whole to be given up to him for burial. The Chief agreed 
 to do so, but would not consent to have the ovens opened until 
 the following morning. This being all that could be gained,
 
 344 THE SOUTHERN WOULD. 
 
 arrangements were made for Mr. Owen to go in his boat very 
 early. He did so, and requested of the Somosomo Chief 
 that all the baskets of cooked human flesh, from the five 
 ovens, should be placed before him. This was done; but it 
 was found that some pieces had been kept back, which were 
 however ordered to be brought. He then sent the whole 
 down to the boat. We had a large hole dug in a convenient 
 place, in which we packed the pieces, eighty-four in number, 
 on a mat. There were fourteen hands, from which, as well 
 as from the number of pieces, it appeared that the cookable 
 parts of seven had been given up for burial. The head and 
 trunk are thrown away. The hand is one piece, thence to the 
 elbow another, and thence to the shoulder another. The leg 
 is also divided into three. In some cases, the hand or foot 
 was not divided from the adjoining part; but the number 
 was made up by the livers of some, one of which had left 
 on it teeth-marks in two places. 
 
 "Mr. and Mrs. Owen's efforts are worthy of all admiration 
 and praise. They were determined, prompt, zealous, and 
 successful beyond what I had dared to hope. It is no small 
 matter to have gained for burial the bodies of enemies skin, 
 and even from the oven. In this case the destroyers were 
 pursued all the way; and although we have only been so 
 far successful, yet we are fully persuaded that these efforts 
 are necessary, and will surely result in preventing the 
 degrading practices which still exist in Feejee. I hope the 
 day is not far distant when such abominations will be en- 
 tirely removed." 
 
 The custom of amputating the little finger in time of 
 sorrow is very common among the Heathen, so that very 
 few adults can be found in Feejee with their hands perfect. 
 The women that Varani refused to strangle, as already 
 stated, cut off their little fingers as being in their estimation 
 the next best thing to strangling. A few days after they 
 had done so, two of our Missionaries visited them, and saw 
 ten little fingers hanging at the door as they entered the 
 house of mourning. " We found," says Mr. Watsford, " the
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 345 
 
 whole of the women sitting, each holding up her muti- 
 lated hand, the wound having been opened afresh, that she 
 might still feel the pain, and mourn for her murdered hus- 
 band. In a dark corner of the house we found the Chief 
 woman. She had not for some days tasted any food, her 
 tears were abundant, and her cries heartrending. She was 
 sorrowing without hope. We spoke to her about her soul, 
 and pointed her to the only source of comfort for a troubled 
 spirit, and she promised to embrace Christianity when the 
 days of her mourning were ended. She did so, and all her 
 companions in distress followed her example. Many of them 
 have been truly converted; and I have frequently heard the 
 Chief woman speak with deep feeling of her former condition, 
 and observe how near to hell she was, when Grod laid hold of 
 her, and saved her." 
 
 18th. Left Vewa for Sydney. Mr. Calvert accompanied us 
 as far as Ovalau, where he went to look after the interests of the 
 Mission, which by the war had been greatly interfered with. 
 I found Mr. Calvert a devoted and enterprising Missionary, 
 full of courage, and possessing much influence with the Chiefs, 
 but not obtained by the compromise of any principle, he 
 being a determined opposer of their sins, and a fearless advocate 
 of the law of God. Mrs. Calvert also appeared a suitable and 
 valuable helpmate, likely to do him good and not evil all the 
 days of his life. 
 
 Being also favoured with the company of Mr. Hazlewood, I 
 asked him if he knew any customs among the Feejeeans in- 
 dicating an Asiatic origin, when he kindly furnished the 
 following reply: 
 
 "As I have but a very imperfect acquaintance with 
 Asiatic customs, there are probably many points of resem- 
 blance between them and those of the Feejeeans which 
 I have not observed. But several Asiatic customs mentioned 
 in the Scriptures appear to be followed, or imitated, by the 
 Feejeeans. The following may be noticed: The peo}>tis 
 universal hospitality. Their houses are open to all, and 
 strangers, or passers-by, are invited to partake of the best
 
 346 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 provision they have. They have frequently put me to shame 
 in this respect, because I could not return their kind invita- 
 tions. The parties entertaining strangers are bound to protect 
 them. Circumcision. This rite is universally practised, 
 which seems to indicate an Asiatic origin. First-fruits. It 
 is unlawful to eat new yams, until those first taken out of the 
 earth are offered at the temple. The Scriptures make several 
 allusions to ' baldness,' and ' cuttings in the flesh for the dead.' 
 Nothing is more common among the Heathen in Feejee than 
 these practises. On the death of my late wife, the old Chief 
 of the town where I lived, Josiah by name, though a Christian, 
 shaved his head out of respect. He did it without my know- 
 ledge. I have heard of a man who ran a spear through his 
 leg on the death of his child. On the decease of the late King 
 of Somosomo, a hundred little fingers were amputated. I 
 counted upwards of seventy which were put in a slit made in 
 the end of a reed, and stuck in the thatch of the King's house. 
 It is a rare thing to meet with a Feejeean who has all his 
 fingers, one or more having been cut off on the death of a 
 relative or of a Chief. Their superstitious reverence for Chiefs, 
 amounting, perhaps, to adoration; their sitting down in their 
 presence, and crouching, when passing them, may also be of 
 Asiatic origin. Their mourning for the dead. They frequently 
 go to the house of the deceased, and propose to tangi, or 
 howl, in a mere affected sympathy with the surviving relatives, 
 who nevertheless like it, though it is known to be a mere sham. 
 Those who have assisted in burying a corpse are forbidden to 
 touch food till after bathing, a custom which the Jews were 
 enjoined to observe. It is also a custom to receive a new 
 name on the performance of some brilliant, generally murder- 
 ous, action. This is universal. Hence the same person 
 frequently will have three or four different names, at different 
 periods of his life. Patronymics, or surnames, are not used at 
 all. Parents are frequently called in a certain way after their 
 children, or grandchildren, though children are not called after 
 their parents. Thus a man who has a child called Rawanka, 
 is himself called Tama-i-Rawanka, the father of Rawanka. A
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 347 
 
 man who has a grandchild called Vakambua is himself called 
 Tuka-i-Vakambua, the grandfather of Vakambua. A woman 
 who has a child named Ratu is herself named Tina-i-Ratu, the 
 mother of Ratu. These are considered moi-e honourable than 
 the proper names of the persons. Uncles and aunts are called 
 fathers and mothers, and cousins are called brothers and 
 sisters. They have no other mode of distinguishing those re- 
 lationships, excepting the occasional use of the terms true, 
 little, and great. As tamagu dina, my true father; tamagu 
 levu, my great father, i. e., my father's elder brother; tamagu 
 lailai, my little father, i. e., my father's younger brother. I 
 think the consideration of these usages will relieve some diffi- 
 culties accruing in the Scriptures." 
 
 19tk. This morning we lost sight of the Feejee group, 
 those isles of beauty and of blood. The Wesleyan Mission to 
 them was begun in 1835, and although everything desired 
 has not been accomplished, yet God's servants have received 
 the first-fruits of a glorious harvest. I found upwards of 
 3,000 church members, including those on trial, under different 
 degrees of religious influence, walking in the fear of the Lord, 
 and many of them in the comfort of the Holy Ghost ; 1 20 
 Day-schools, with about 4,000 Scholars, including both children 
 and adults; 61 Chapels; 31 other preaching places; 50 Native 
 Teachers; 56 Local-preachers; 244 Class-leaders; and about 
 6,000 persons attending public worship. The work appeared 
 healthy, and in some instances vigorous. The efficient manner 
 in which Mr. Lyth was working what is called the Lakemba 
 Circuit astonished and greatly delighted me. That Circuit of 
 21 islands, some more than 100 miles distant from Lakemba, 
 was being successfully worked by the aid of catechists and 
 native teachers. The wise distribution of those agents gives 
 a glorious idea of the aggressive movements of the Gospel in 
 Feejee. 
 
 Nor had the people been unwilling to support the cause of 
 God amongst them; for, in addition to the sustenance of tho 
 native teachers, the Lakemba Circuit during the previous year 
 contributed the following articles in aid of the Mission :
 
 348 THE SOTJTHEEN WOULD. 
 
 3,179 Gatu and Masi. 
 149 Mats. 
 
 267 Hanks of sinnet 
 414 Jibs. ditto. 
 
 78 Pearl shells. 
 
 15 Small whale's teeth. 
 
 13 Taunamu. 
 
 1 1 Gallons of oil. 
 
 12 Vesi spars. 
 129 Head dresses (sala). 
 158 Bowls. 
 
 55 Paddles. 
 
 14 Walking-sticks. 
 
 39 Spears. 
 4 Clubs. 
 
 45 Latu. 
 
 With sundry small articles, as roga, tabakau, lalakai, Tonga fish-hooks, 
 ivory black, combs, &c. 
 
 Much has been already accomplished. Many souls have 
 been saved, and a most important preparatory work has been 
 effected. The language has been acquired, and grammatically 
 arranged; the Scriptures have been translated, and other suit- 
 able books prepared for the natives; and a most favourable 
 impression has been made in relation to the Missionaries and 
 their important work. Their motives and objects are now 
 understood; and the dread of Jehovah has so fallen upon the 
 people that they are afraid to touch his anointed, and to do 
 his prophets any harm. Previously they could not believe that 
 men, from mere motives of love to them, would come all the 
 way from England to Feejee. The idea was new, and too 
 large for their comprehension; but now they believe that it is 
 even so, and generally regard the Missionaries as superior and 
 disinterested men. Besides, a deep and very general conviction 
 has been produced, that the Heathenism of Feejee, with all 
 its dark superstitions and sanguinary practices, is inevitably 
 doomed to fall before Jehovah and his conquering Son. The 
 priests and Chiefs, as well as others, have this conviction, and 
 not uufrequently express it. 
 
 The faith, courage, and patience of the Missionaries have 
 been severely tried. What Messrs. Hunt and Lyth, with their 
 devoted wives, suffered at Somosomo cannot be told. The 
 Chief or King being a cruel and desperately wicked savage, had 
 the oven where human beings were cooked placed only two or 
 three yards from the Mission-House; and if at any time the 
 Missionaries attempted to shut the door while human flesh was 
 being cooked, the King threatened to kill them, and had often
 
 THE SOUTHERN WOULD. 349 
 
 gone into the house to do so. " Mr. Hunt," says Mr. Watsford, 
 "has told me that he has heard them planning outside the 
 house how they were to kill them ; and one week in particular, 
 they were in constant alarm, expecting every moment to. die. 
 Mr. Lyth went one day to speak to the King about Christi- 
 anity, and His Majesty, considering himself insulted, laid hold 
 of Mr. Lyth, and called for his club to kill him ; but Mr. Lyth 
 providentially escaped, leaving behind him the skirt of his 
 coat." Happily things are now greatly improved, but still 
 these devoted men have strong claims upon the sympathies 
 and prayers of the church : nor should their excellent wives 
 be forgotten. Ladies of education and refined taste must feel 
 their residence in Feejee severely trying; and nothing but a 
 sense of duty, and a gracious influence from on high, can sus- 
 tain their minds amid the scenes of impurity and blood of 
 which they are involuntary witnesses. And yet I heard no 
 complaint uttered, neither any wish expressed for another field 
 of labour. Their position, though exceedingly trying, is, how- 
 ever, an honourable one; and when viewed in connection with 
 its issue in the salvation of a deeply degraded, yet noble race 
 of people, might well be envied, even by crowned heads. 
 
 In taking my leave of the islands of the Pacific, I felt 
 grateful for the great work which had been effected, in little 
 more than a quarter of a century, by means of Missionary 
 exertions. Previously to that period, I could not have visited 
 any of these islands but at the imminent risk of my life; but 
 now, I had been everywhere received with joy, and treated with 
 the utmost respect and kindness. St. Paul said, " I am not 
 ashamed of the Gospel of Christ, for it is the power of God 
 unto salvation to every one that believeth." It was so in his 
 days, and it is so still; of which the natives of New Zealand, 
 of Feejee, and of the Friendly Islands are striking examples. 
 The Gospel is God's remedy for the world, and when faithfully 
 proclaimed, and cordially received, never fails to produce the 
 same regenerating and saving results, whether the parties to* 
 whom it is ministered be Greeks or barbarians, natives of the 
 frigid or the torrid zone. The gracious work in these islands
 
 350 THE SOUTHERN WORLP. 
 
 very much resembles primitive Christianity. No sooner are 
 the natives brought under the saving influence of the Gospel, 
 than they endeavour to lead others to the enjoyment of the 
 same blessing. Like the disciples of the Pentecost, they make 
 known wherever they go the riches of the grace of God; or, 
 like the men of Cyprus and Cyrene, they teach and preach 
 Jesus; and in this service the hand of the Lord has been with 
 them, and a multitude has believed and turned unto God. 
 Had the Wesleyan Missionary Society achieved nothing more 
 than those triumphs which I have witnessed in the isles of 
 the Pacific, it would have received an ample reward for the 
 property and life expended in the prosecution of its noble 
 enterprise; but its agents in many other places also have 
 laboured, and suffered, and triumphed. 
 
 2Qtk. Sunday. This morning the Rev. G. H. Miller preached 
 on deck, in the Tongese language, for the edification of the 
 King, and those on board who understood that tongue. In the 
 evening Mr. Turner preached in the saloon. A very pleasant 
 and, I hope, profitable day. 
 
 22d. I was much pleased with the behaviour of the crew 
 of the "John Wesley." It comprehended an Englishman, an 
 Irishman, a Scotchman, a Portuguese, an African, a New 
 Zealander, a Tongese, a Feejeean, a Rotuman, and two from 
 other islands of the Pacific. The Captain and Officers were 
 Englishmen. Wesley said, "The world is my parish," and 
 here was a vessel called by his name, manned by a crew from 
 nearly every part of that parish. The cause too in which the 
 vessel was employed contemplated the conversion of "all nations, 
 and kindreds, and people, and tongues;" the crew therefore 
 was fitting, and even symbolic. Nor had we any quarrelling; 
 but the heterogeneous material amalgamated, and harmonized 
 very agreeably, and much more so than could have been 
 reasonably expected. From our leaving Auckland we had 
 worship in the cabin, morning and evening, which the men 
 ^regularly attended. 
 
 The New Zealander informed me that he was a child when 
 Hongi returned from England; and in the war which im-
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 351 
 
 mediately ensued, his father was slain, cooked, and eaten. He 
 and his mother being captives, were compelled to witness the 
 horrid process; and, after enduring fearful hardships, were 
 liberated as the result of Christianity. 
 
 27th. /Sunday. Fine weather, and I preached on deck. In 
 the evening Mr. Turner took the service in the saloon, and 
 sought with much earnestness to impress his congregation with 
 the importance of an immediate preparation for another world. 
 
 28th. King George had hitherto appeared in his Tongese 
 costume, but as we were drawing near to the termination of our 
 voyage, I furnished him with certain articles which he had not 
 previously worn, and amongst other things I had the pleasure 
 of giving him, as I was told, his first shoes and stockings ! I 
 had now spent several weeks in company with the King; and 
 during that period I had not observed an act contrary to the 
 strictest Christian propriety, nor had I heard a foolish word 
 from his lips. In all my intercourse with him, I was deeply 
 impressed with his mental power, and his genuine piety, and 
 felt persuaded that had he possessed European advantages he 
 would have been one of the greatest men of the age. 
 
 30^/i. After a most delightful voyage of eleven days, we 
 anchored, at 8 o'clock P.M., in the magnificent harbour of 
 Sydney. Captain Ryle had shown himself a very suitable 
 commander for the "John Wesley;" kind, gentlemanly, and so 
 cautious that he is not likely to run the vessel upon any of 
 the reefs which render navigation among the islands of the 
 Pacific so exceedingly perilous. 
 
 It is said that King George is so cautious that he never 
 commits himself by the 'expression of a hasty opinion, of 
 which he this evening furnished a good illustration. As we 
 sailed up the harbour I pointed him to the imposing city of 
 Sydney, which, with its forest of shipping, had just opened 
 before us; and, thinking that he would be unable to suppress 
 his astonishment, I said, " King, what do you think of this 1 " 
 He very deliberately replied, "I will tell you to-morrow." 
 
 I found my way to the residence of the Rev. W. B. Boyce, 
 who only two days previously had returned from his arduous
 
 352 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 and deeply interesting adventures in New Zealand. We were 
 more than delighted to meet, and I hope we both felt our 
 obligation to Him who had so manifestly watched over us 
 during our journeying by sea and by land. 
 
 A large packet of letters from England, India, China, and 
 other parts of the world, awaited me, the reading of which 
 occupied me until 2 o'clock the following morning. All good 
 news. What a mercy ! 
 
 CHAPTER XVI, 
 
 KING GEORGE in Sydney Legislative Council The King at a party 
 Missionary Meeting Valedictory address Departure from Sydney 
 Review of the rise and progress of Methodism in New South Wales 
 Letter from Rev. R. Mansfield Arrival in Melbourne Departure for 
 Mount Alexander Journey Arrival at Forest Creek Digger's wedding 
 Christmas-day on the gold-fields Bendigo State of the digging 
 population Influence of Methodism Large tea-meeting Average 
 earnings of gold-diggers Return to Melbourne. 
 
 THE weather had greatly altered during my absence from 
 Australia. It was now summer, warm, but exhilarating. All 
 nature had put on her beautiful garments ; and the groves and 
 forests were vocal with the chirping of the locust, and other 
 noisy insects. 
 
 December 3d. The arrival of King George created intense 
 interest. He was taken to-day to inspect the Gas-works, and 
 on being asked what he thought of the objects he beheld, he 
 replied that he thought himself in a " spirit world," a form of 
 words intended to express an intellectual world, or world of 
 mind. One of his attendants laid his hand upon the gasometer, 
 and said, " George, when will you have anything like this in 
 your country?" He looked very archly, and, in reply, said, 
 " How long after receiving the Gospel was Britain in obtaining 
 such a thing 1 ?"
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 353 
 
 4:th. Sunday. Preached twice in the chapel at Surrey- 
 Hills. In the morning the congregation was very large ; but in 
 the evening a thunder-storm operated against the attendance ; 
 nevertheless the chapel was very well attended. Many thanks 
 were offered to God for my safe return from the Polynesian 
 Islands. 
 
 5th. Attended a public meeting at Surrey-Hills. The 
 object was to obtain means for the erection of galleries in the 
 chapel to accommodate the increasing congregation. The 
 amount contributed was nearly 500. The Wesleyans in 
 Australia are acting wisely in chapel extension, at once paying 
 for what they build, or arranging definitely for the speedy 
 liquidation of any debt that may be incurred, but generally 
 meeting the whole expense at first. 
 
 1th. I went to the Legislative Council, which had been 
 adjourned for three months to allow the country time to speak 
 out on the "Constitution Bill." Many public meetings had been 
 held, and inflammatory speeches delivered, but only two peti- 
 tions were presented to the House against the Bill, and one of 
 them bore the signatures of women and children. Mr. Went- 
 worth exposed the way in which some signatures had been 
 obtained, and cited, amongst other cases in illustration, the 
 glazier whom the speaker had employed to repair his windows. 
 He said that a party, paid to carry about the petition, applied 
 to the glazier in question, who hesitated ; but when the appli- 
 cant said, " Wentworth is about to impose a tax upon glass," 
 the glazier needed no farther urging, and his name was 
 attached to the petition in a trice. Other instances he 
 mentioned, to show that the mode of getting up petitions was 
 fearfully corrupt. The Bill went into Committee, giving up 
 the hereditary clause, and making a few other alterations, but 
 retaining intact the nomination of the Upper House. 
 
 8th. I received from England the " power of attorney," 
 empowering Mr. Boyce and myself to make such arrangements 
 for the management of the "John Wesley," as we might on 
 the spot deem wise and important. After due consultation, we 
 resolved upon a course which we thought would give all the
 
 354 THE 80UTHEBN WORLD. 
 
 required assistance to the Missionaries, and greatly reduce the 
 expenses of the vessel. 
 
 In the evening, Mr. Allen, of Toxteth-park, kindly invited 
 all the Wesleyan Ministers and their families, in and about 
 Sydney, to meet me previously to my departure from New 
 South Wales. King George was also present, and the evening 
 was spent very agreeably. I stated to the King that Sydney 
 was but a faint representation of London, and endeavoured to 
 describe the extent of the city by reference to a tract of 
 country in Tonga. He replied, that was only what his mind 
 had already told him ; for if a country so far from England had 
 in a few years become so great by English people, what would 
 not that people have accomplished in their own and ancient 
 land ! The King has an innate sense of propriety; for although 
 this was his first visit to the land of white men, he never 
 committed himself in any company, but invariably showed the 
 bearing of a Christian and a gentleman. 
 
 9th. Engaged all day with Mr. Boyce in preparing reports 
 for the Missionary Committee, and in arranging certain appoint- 
 ments for Australia. 
 
 \\th. Sunday. This morning preached in Chippendale 
 Chapel. It had recently been enlarged, and greatly improved. 
 In the afternoon King George preached. The crowd was so 
 immense that the royal preacher had to adjourn outside. He 
 preached from Acts x. 38 : " Who went about doing good." 
 The Rev. S. Rabone interpreted with great ease. The sermon 
 was clear, pointed, and effective. In the evening I preached 
 in York-street Chapel. One of the days of the Son of Man, 
 
 I2tk. Missionary Meeting at Chippendale. The chair was 
 taken by George Allen, Esq., who opened the business in a very 
 neat and appropriate speech. The meeting was addressed by 
 the Rev. Messrs. Lawry, Williams, P. Turner, N. Turner, and 
 Young; but the King very properly was the point of attrac- 
 tion, the lion of the night. In a speech, interpreted by Mr. 
 Rabone, and replete with the King's usual good sense, he 
 described the past and present state of himself and country; 
 passed a high encomium upon Great Britain, and the Mis-
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 355 
 
 sionaries sent from that country, and stated several particulars 
 of interest illustrative of the power of the Gospel. It appeared 
 that the King had many years previously given to Mr. Rabone 
 a celebrated idol of the royal family. The idol was brought to 
 the meeting; and when the King took it, and showed it to the 
 people as the identical god which he had formerly worshipped, 
 but which he now called a devil, deep feeling was excited 
 throughout the congregation. Nor can I ever forget the effect 
 produced when he held up his right hand, minus two joints of 
 the little finger, and, pointing to the mutilated member, said, 
 " My father cut off that finger, and offered it to this thing I now 
 hold in my hand." Then holding up his left handj which had 
 suffered similar mutilation, he said, " Here you see the farther 
 darkness of my country : this finger too was cut off, and pre- 
 sented in sacrifice by my father." But George had been 
 terribly revenged upon the idol gods of the land. When he 
 became the recipient of the Gospel, he destroyed his god- 
 houses, and suspended his idols by the neck in one of his 
 kitchens, and left them dangling there, that the people might 
 see they could not save themselves, and were therefore unable 
 to save their worshippers. 
 
 The meeting was truly effective, and the proceeds of the 
 anniversary were nearly sixfold the amount of the previous 
 year. 
 
 13th. This evening a meeting of the Ministers, office- 
 bearers, and principal members of the Wesleyan churches in 
 and about Sydney was held on the occasion of my departure 
 from the colony. Mr. Boyce took the chair, and, after a few 
 speeches, an address was presented to me, mainly valuable as 
 an expression of unwavering determination to carry out the 
 views of the Committee and Conference in relation to Australia. 
 The King being present, spoke with his usual good taste and 
 modesty; and, on taking leave of him, I felt that, with the 
 exception of our beloved Queen Victoria, there was no earthly 
 Monarch to whom I would so willingly yield allegiance as 
 George of Tonga. 
 
 . I parted with Mr. Boyce's very interesting ^family. I
 
 356 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 had spent altogether three months under their roof, and the 
 unwavering kindness and abounding hospitality of the whole 
 family made an impression on my mind so deep, that whilst 
 memory retains her seat it can never be forgotten. I was far 
 away from a happy home; and to have met with such genuine 
 and Christian kindness was the more felt, and must ever be 
 referred to with grateful emotion. May they be abundantly 
 blessed, and all find mercy of the Lord in that day ! 
 
 At 3 o'clock I bade farewell to Sydney with mingled 
 feelings, and with a hope that when the Lord cometh it will 
 appear that my visit to New South Wales was according to 
 His will, and not made in vain. 
 
 I went on board the " Hellespont " steamer for Melbourne, 
 and after passing down the majestic harbour, we turned round 
 the South-head, and the rising and truly interesting city of 
 Sydney, where I had many beloved and never-to-be-forgotten 
 friends, suddenly disappeared. Peace be within thy walls, and 
 prosperity within thy palaces 1 I shall see thee no more, but 
 hope to meet many of thy children in a happier land. 
 
 On leaving New South Wales, I employed myself for some 
 time in reviewing the rise and progress of Wesleyan Methodism 
 in that colony. The earliest records I have been able to find 
 respecting it are contained in the " Methodist Magazine " for 
 the year 1814. The first class-meeting was held on the 6th 
 of March, 1812, and the first lovefeast on the 3d of April 
 following. At this lovefeast, a letter published in the Maga- 
 zine thus speaks : " Our friends at Windsor, a town on the 
 banks of the Hawkesbury, about thirty-five miles from Sydney, 
 came down, and we held a lovefeast, which was a most 
 blessed season : God was evidently present, and gave us that 
 meek, humble, simple, loving spirit, that the place was a little 
 heaven, and each thought himself the most unworthy of so 
 great a blessing." 
 
 In July, 1812, there were three Classes in the colony, two 
 at Sydney, and one at Windsor. Of those in Sydney, one was 
 led by Mr. Thomas Bowden, and the other by Mr. John 
 Hosking. Each of the three Classes had six members : so that
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 357 
 
 the principal Society in this part of the world, formed 
 before the arrival of a Minister, consisted of eighteen 
 members. 
 
 About the time of the first lovefeast, the members of 
 Society consulted on the most effectual means of procuring a 
 Minister from England; and with that object, determined to 
 address the Missionary Committee, and also to" provide ways 
 and means for the Minister's support. 
 
 The official letter written in pursuance of this resolution is 
 without date, but was received by the Committee in March, 
 1814. It bears the signatures of the two leaders above 
 mentioned. Mr. Bowden had formerly been schoolmaster at 
 the Great Queen-street Charity School, London; and he died 
 in the colony many years ago. He was the father of our 
 most excellent friend, Mrs. Allen, of Toxteth-park, near 
 Sydney, one of the oldest Australian Methodists now living. 
 The language in which these two excellent men, the lay- 
 fathers of Australian Methodism, appeal to the Committee for 
 Ministerial help, is most touching. " In the land which gave 
 us birth," they say, " we enjoyed the privilege of the glorious 
 Gospel; and in our union with the Methodists we had access 
 to those blessed means of grace which are the glory of that 
 people. Here, we may truly say, ' The people sit in darkness, 
 and in the shadow of death;' around us, on every hand, we see 
 ignorance and profanity greatly abound. To our God we 
 make our complaint, and look for help; and, under Him, fathers, 
 to you, as the instrument of bringing us from darkness to his 
 marvellous light. We call upon you, in our own behalf: leave 
 us not forsaken in this benighted land. We call upon you, in 
 behalf of our children : let not them be left to perish for the 
 lack of knowledge. We call upon you, in behalf of those who 
 have neither opportunity nor inclination to speak for them- 
 selves, perishing, dying sinners : leave them not in their blood. 
 We call upon you, in the name of the outcasts of society, sent 
 and daily sending hither: administer to them that word of 
 life which will make their exile a blessing. Send us that 
 Gospel which you have received from the Lord, to preach to
 
 358 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 every creature. Send among us one of yourselves; and we 
 and a seed to the Lord shall rise to bless you." 
 
 In compliance with this earnest request, the Conference of 
 1814 placed New South Wales for the first time upon the 
 list of Missionary Stations, appointing the Eev. Samuel Leigh 
 as the first Wesleyan Minister in the infant colony. Mr. 
 Leigh sailed from England on the 28th of February, 1815, 
 and arrived at Sydney on the 10th of August following. On 
 the next day he waited upon His Excellency Governor 
 Macquarie, who received him with great kindness, and pro- 
 mised him every encouragement he could desire. In his first 
 letter to the Committee after arriving in the colony, and 
 dated 2d of March, 1816, Mr. Leigh thus describes the state 
 in which he found the Society, and the steps he took at the 
 outset of his ministerial labours. " My next business was to 
 inquire after the Classes that had been mentioned to you, and 
 I was grieved to find that Satan had entered among them, 
 and had scattered the feeble few. But, thank God, I found 
 one Class, consisting of six persons, who have since continued 
 to meet; and I hope the fear of the Lord is among them of a 
 truth, and that they will show forth his praise continually. 
 August 24th. I met a few men and women who professed a 
 regard for Methodism, and wished to enjoy its privileges. I 
 explained to them the Rules of the Society, and formed two 
 Classes, containing six members each. Since the 24th we have 
 had the pleasure of seeing three Classes established, in addition 
 to the three above mentioned, one at Paramatta, one at 
 Windsor, and one at Castlereagh. The number of members of 
 Society is at this time forty-four. Eligible Leaders have been 
 chosen. We have likewise a Steward, one Local-preacher, and 
 one Exhorter. By this account you will perceive we are but 
 few, and, 1 may say, feeble; yet, blessed be God, we live in 
 expectation of an increase. I took the first opportunity of 
 calling upon the Clergy, the Rev. Messrs. Marsden, Cowper, 
 Cartwright, and Fulton ; from all of whom I have received the 
 treatment of friends, and Ministers of Jesus Christ; and can 
 say from my knowledge of them, that they are men of God,
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 359 
 
 and strive to reclaim the outcasts of Israel. May Jehovah 
 crown their labours with success! My Circuit extends 150 
 miles, which distance I travel in ten days. I preach at 15 
 places; and in every place there appears to be a desire to 
 hear the word of God. All that I can do is to preach once 
 in three weeks in each place. This is complained of as being 
 too seldom. But what can I do ? Come over and help us, 
 ye servants of the Most High!" 
 
 Mr. Leigh mentions that there were then four Sunday- 
 schools established in the Colony, and in a flourishing state. 
 His letter was accompanied by an Address from the Society 
 to the Committee, thanking them for having so readily complied 
 with the request contained in their former communication, 
 pledging themselves that Mr. Leigh should be no further 
 expense to the Committee, describing their endeavours to 
 build a chapel in Sydney, and two in the country, and 
 earnestly praying that a second Preacher should be sent out 
 as soon as possible. 
 
 This request was as promptly complied with as the first; 
 for, at the Conference of 1817, the Rev. Walter Lawry was 
 appointed as Mr. Leigh's colleague. Towards the end of that 
 year Mr. Lawry sailed from England, and arrived at Sydney 
 on the 1st of May, 1818. 
 
 The first Wesleyan Chapel erected in Australia was the one 
 situated in Princess-street, Sydney, built at the sole cost of the 
 late Mr. James Scott, and by him nobly presented to the 
 Society. This neat and substantial place of worship was 
 opened on Sunday, the 14th of March, 1819, by Mr. Lawry, 
 and is to this day (having, however, been much enlarged) in 
 constant use and in excellent repair. 
 
 In 1820 Mr. Leigh sailed for England, on account of ill- 
 health, but returned to the colony the following year, and 
 proceeded thence to New Zealand, to commence a Wesleyan 
 Mission in that country. While Mr. Leigh was on his 
 homeward voyage, two Missionaries were sailing for the late 
 scene of his labours, the Rev. B. Carvosso, who arrived at 
 Sydney the 8th of May, 1820, and the Rev. R. Mansfield
 
 360 
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 who arrived on the 24th of the following September. Both 
 of these Missionaries landed at Van Diemen's Land, and 
 preached at Hobart Town almost every day during their 
 stay, thus laying the foundation of Wesleyan Methodism in 
 that beautiful island. 
 
 The work now advanced with greater rapidity; and the 
 following statistics, kindly furnished by the Rev. R. Mansfield, 
 will give some idea of its progress, as well as that of other 
 religious communities. 
 
 Table showing the numbers, increase, and proportions of the several 
 religious Denominations in the Colony of New South Wales, based on 
 the Census Returns of the year 1841 and 1851. 
 
 RELIGION. 
 
 Number. 
 
 l'r< iportion to 
 each 1,000 of 
 thepopulation. 
 
 Increase. 
 
 1841. 
 
 1851. 
 
 1841. 
 
 1851. 
 
 Numerical. 
 
 Centesimal. 
 
 Church of England 
 Church of Scotland 
 Wes. Methodist . . 
 Other Protestants . 
 
 Total Protestants.. 
 Roman Catholics . 
 
 Total Christians . . 
 Other Persuasions-)- 
 
 Total Population . . 
 
 66,361 
 11,046 
 2,585 
 1,503 
 
 93,137 
 18,156 
 10,008* 
 6,472 
 
 578 
 96 
 22 
 14 
 
 497 
 97 
 54 
 35 
 
 26,776 
 7,110 
 7,423 
 4,969 
 
 40-35 
 64-37 
 287-16 
 
 5679 
 76-05 
 
 81,495 
 32,319 
 
 127,773 
 56,899 
 
 710 
 281 
 
 683 
 304 
 
 987 
 13 
 
 46,278 
 24,580 
 
 113,814 
 987 
 
 184,672 
 2,570 
 
 991 
 9 
 
 70,858 
 1,584 
 
 62-26 
 
 114,801 
 
 187,242 
 
 1,000 
 
 1,000 
 
 72,442 
 
 63-10 
 
 * The "Wesleyans have greatly increased since the census was taken. 
 
 f Jews 790 976 
 
 Mohammedans and Pagans 197 852 
 
 Other creeds 742 
 
 987 2,570 
 
 Total Population in 1841 
 
 Deduct Population of Norfolk Islands and Port Phillip, 
 
 afterwards separated from the Colony 1 3,925 
 
 Crews of Colonial vessels whose religion was not returned 2,130 
 
 130,856 
 
 16,055 
 
 Population per annexed Table 1 14,801
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 361 
 
 The reason why these tables do not commence with an earlier 
 period than the year 1841 is, because the census of thatyear is the 
 first in which there appears any distinction of religious Denomi- 
 nations, other than between Protestants and Roman Catholics. 
 
 No census has been taken since that of 1851. 
 
 WESLEYAN METHODISTS. 
 
 In point of numerical increase, during these ten years, the 
 Wesleyan Methodists take the lead of each of the other Pro- 
 testant Denominations, except the Church of England; the 
 numbers added to their Societies throughout the colony 
 exceeding those added to the Church of Scotland by 313. 
 
 As regards the centesimal increase upon their own respective 
 members, the specified Denominations stand in the following 
 order : 
 
 Wesleyan Methodists 287*16 per cent 
 
 Roman Catholics 76-05 ditto. 
 
 Church of Scotland 64-37 ditto. 
 
 Church of England 40 '35 ditto. 
 
 In these several proportions to each 1,000 of the whole 
 population, the Denominations have undergone the following 
 
 alterations : 
 
 1841. 1851. 
 
 Wesleyan Methodists 22 . . 54 Increase 32 
 
 Roman Catholics 281 .. 304 ditto. 23 
 
 Church of Scotland 96 . . 97 ditto 1 
 
 Church of England 575 . . 497 Decrease 81 
 
 PROTESTANTS AND ROMAN CATHOLICS. 
 
 The distinction between Protestants and Roman Catholics 
 begins, in the returns of New South Wales, with the Census 
 of 1828. The progress of the two Bodies respectively during 
 the subsequent twenty-three years will be seen by the follow- 
 ing table. 
 
 
 Number. 
 
 Proportion to each 
 1,000 of the 
 Population. 
 
 Increase. 
 
 1828. 
 
 1851. 
 
 1828. 
 
 1851. 
 
 Numerical. 
 
 Centesimal. 
 
 222-8 
 187-6 
 
 212-0 
 
 25,248 
 11,236 
 
 81,495 
 32,319 
 
 692 
 308 
 
 716 
 
 284 
 
 56,247 
 21,083 
 
 77,330 
 
 Roman Catholics . 
 Total Number . 
 
 36,484 
 
 113,814 
 
 1,000 
 
 1,000
 
 362 THE 80UTHEEN WORLD. 
 
 In numerical increase the Protestants are here shown to 
 have exceeded the Roman Catholics by 35,164 souls. In 
 centesimal increase upon their own numbers the Protestants 
 are also considerably in advance of the Roman Catholics, the 
 difference being 35 '2 per cent, in favour of the former. In 
 their respective proportions to the whole Christian population 
 the Protestants have gained 24, the Roman Catholics having, of 
 course, lost to the same extent. RALPH MANSFIELD. 
 
 Mr. Mansfield also politely gave me the annexed replies to 
 the following questions : 
 
 " 1. How does the Wesleyan Body stand in the estimation 
 of the public?" 
 
 " It stands well, and has done so for more than thirty-three 
 years." 
 
 " 2. Are the Wesleyans in this colony, as in all other parts 
 of the world, loyal to our beloved Queen? " 
 
 " They are : and I believe quite as much so as in England." 
 
 " 3. What, in your opinion, is likely to be the result of the 
 altered ecclesiastical arrangement about to be applied to the 
 Wesleyan churches of Australia? " 
 
 " The arrangement will, I am fully persuaded, be beneficial 
 to all concerned, and especially to the efficient working of 
 Australian Methodism." 
 
 " 4. Would you advise Wesleyans to emigrate to this country? 
 If so, of what class or calling? " 
 
 "By all means encourage Wesleyan emigration, especially 
 amongst the working-classes, mechanics of all kinds more 
 particularly." 
 
 "5. What are your views as to the future progress and 
 prosperity of these colonies?" 
 
 " I can only say, that long before our gold-fields were thought 
 of I foresaw that Australia must become a great nation. The 
 great discovery has, of course, wonderfully confirmed my 
 anticipation, and is hastening the period of its fulfilment." 
 
 \5th. We had head-winds and a terrible rough sea, pro- 
 ducing the usual results. Every passenger was affected, and
 
 THE SOUTHEEN WORLD. 363 
 
 seemed very ill. A gentleman on board was taking to the 
 Melbourne market about 200 geese and ducks. He expected 
 to realize a pound each for the former, and a guinea a pair 
 for the latter. Nor were his expectations thought extravagant. 
 
 17th. I found that one of the passengers had formerly been 
 a scholar in the Hinde-street Sunday-school, when I was 
 stationed in that part of London. Four years had elapsed 
 since she had left England, and during that period many 
 trials had befallen her. She and her husband had been 
 wrecked in Torres Straits, losing all they possessed; and, after 
 sailing a distance of 600 miles in a frail open boat, reached a 
 place of security, all but exhausted from the want of water. 
 Soon afterwards her husband was drowned on that part of the 
 Australian coast which we were this day passing, and she was 
 now on her way to Melbourne, a disconsolate widow, with a 
 young delicate child. Truly Australia had been to her a Bochim, 
 a place of weeping. 
 
 18th. Sunday. I reached Hobson's Bay, and went on shore. 
 In the evening I preached to a large congregation, and received 
 many hearty congratulations. 
 
 19th. A thorough dust-storm. The weather being dry, and 
 the wind strong, the city was filled with such clouds of dust 
 as to render it sometimes difficult to see across the street. Mr. 
 Butters drove me a few miles into the country to examine 
 some sites he had obtained for chapels; and I ascertained that 
 within a circle of seven miles from the centre of Melbourne, 
 12 Wesleyan Chapels were erected, 5 were in the course of 
 erection, and 13 sites were procured for similar buildings; thus 
 contemplating, within the circumference specified, 30 places of 
 worship for the Wesleyan Body. 
 
 2Qth. I was greatly surprised to find the rapid increase of 
 buildings in Melbourne since my last visit. Several new 
 streets had been formed; many substantial and even elegant 
 buildings erected; and some large plots of ground entirely 
 covered, on which not a house was built at the period referred 
 to. Omnibuses and coaches too were now plying through 
 various parts of the city. When, six months ago, I landed 
 
 u 2
 
 364 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 from the " Adelaide," I could not get a conveyance to Mel- 
 bourne under 50s., but now omnibuses were running every 
 hour, and taking passengers for 2s. 6d. each. A railroad, also, 
 between the Bay and Melbourne, was in a forward state, and 
 would soon be opened. 
 
 21 st. I waited upon His Excellency the Governor, who 
 received me with great kindness. As he learned it was my 
 intention, in company with Mr. Butters, to visit the gold-fields, 
 he gave us, unsolicited, a letter to each of the Gold Commis- 
 sioners, desiring that suitable attention might be shown us, and 
 such services rendered as we might require. 
 
 In the afternoon I opened a neat chapel in the rapidly 
 increasing town of Brunswick, about three miles from Mel- 
 bourne ; and, in the evening, a person from the " diggings," 
 who had, as he said, formerly obtained benefit from my 
 ministry, presented me with a small nugget of gold, as a token 
 of his love. The spirit in which this was done greatly enhanced 
 the value of the gift. 
 
 22e Started in company with Mr. Butters for the gold- 
 fields. We were each provided with a blue veil, to afford us 
 some protection from showers of dust, and swarms of flies : nor 
 were we in this respect singular ; for not only was every traveller 
 we met similarly protected, but bullock-drivers, and even horses, 
 were sporting veils. Our vehicle was much like an English 
 market-cart, and the road being so full of ruts and roots, we 
 had jolting extraordinary, and bumping in the superlative 
 degree. After travelling ten miles we halted to refresh our 
 horse, and were charged 5s. for a small feed of corn. We 
 journeyed twelve miles farther, and then dined. For a little 
 roast mutton we were each charged 4s., and Is. for a very 
 indifferent glass of ale. Proceeding thirteen miles farther, we 
 reached Gisbourne, a beautiful settlement in a rich valley, where 
 we remained for the night. The charges here were, tea 4s. 
 each, bed 4s. each, horse for the night 20s. ; and all these charges 
 were thought very reasonable. And certainly they were, com- 
 pared with the charges made but a few months previously. 
 During the day we travelled through a rich country; some of
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 365 
 
 it cultivated and very productive, and nearly the whole of it 
 capable of amply repaying the labour of the husbandman. 
 Townships were being laid out in different parts of our journey, 
 and in nearly every one of them a site had been obtained for a 
 Wesleyan Chapel. 
 
 23d. After a night's rest at " The Mount Macedon Hotel," 
 a very comfortable inn, we commenced our journey at 5 o'clock, 
 and proceeded through the Black Forest. The traffic on the 
 road was very considerable. Some families were on their way 
 to the gold-fields with various vehicles, containing all their 
 goods and chattels, in many cases surmounted by women and 
 children, who appeared to have been a long time strangers to 
 soap and water, and presented forms of great wretchedness. 
 In some cases the horses becoming restive, or feeling unable to 
 proceed, men and women were seen pushing behind the 
 vehicles. Other parties were encamped by the roadside, ct, la 
 gipsy, and one man was seen crawling out of a hollow tree, 
 where he had been reposing for the night. Ever and anon we 
 met with the skeleton of a bullock, or horse, which had fallen 
 beneath the terrible labour of a journey through the Black 
 Forest. 
 
 About 8 o'clock we reached Wood End, where we halted for 
 breakfast, and had to pay according to the same exorbitant 
 scale to which we had already been subjected. We inspected 
 a site for a chapel, there being no place of worship in the 
 village. Travelling fifteen miles farther, we reached Malmes- 
 bury, a new and rising settlement, where we remained a couple 
 of hours, and paid 7s. Qd. for a feed of corn. We examined 
 the township, and Mr. Butters, with his usual discernment and 
 promptitude, selected a site for a Wesleyan Chapel. Our horse 
 being still very fresh, we determined, if possible, to drive 
 eighteen miles farther, in order that we might reach Forest 
 Creek, the first part of the Mount Alexander gold-fields, which 
 we happily accomplished about 7 o'clock P.M. Much of the 
 country through which we had passed during the day was 
 covered with large gum trees, in such degree as to give it 
 generally a most splendid park-like appearance. The road was
 
 366 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 well supplied with houses for the accommodation of travellers ; 
 but many of them were of the rudest construction, and some 
 of them mere calico tents flapping in the wind. 
 
 Having found our way to the humble residence of the 
 Rev. W. C. Currey, our Missionary in the Forest Creek part 
 of the gold-fields, we met with as kind and hospitable a 
 reception as a lonely bachelor in his tabernacle home could 
 give. 
 
 2<ith. After sleeping for the night, as well as a creaking tent 
 with its flapping canvass and mouse occupants with their 
 numerous gambols would permit, I rose early, and, in company 
 with Mr. Currey, walked to the summit of an adjoining hill, 
 whence we had an extensive view of this part of the gold- 
 fields. In the basin or valley beneath, the " creek," or rivulet, 
 was winding its serpentine course; and for several miles the 
 upheaved valley, and mountain slopes covered with tents of 
 various forms and sizes, spread before us a fairy city, and pre- 
 sented altogether a scene the most novel and romantic that 
 can well be imagined. The diggers in large numbers were at 
 their work, and the grotesque figures which many of them 
 exhibited made no common demand on the risible faculties. 
 Anxious to see the whole process of gold-digging, I inspected 
 several holes from 10 to 20 feet deep; saw the auriferous 
 earth dug from them, and witnessed its washing, cradling, &c. 
 The first washing I saw comprised eight tubs of earth, 
 which yielded one pennyweight of gold, and that was kindly 
 presented to me. 
 
 After breakfast we went through the whole of Forest Creek 
 diggings, and also visited those in Campbell's Creek, where the 
 tents were more numerous, and the fields more productive. I 
 saw the whole process of gold-seeking often repeated, and con- 
 versed with several diggers. At one hole I met with two men 
 who had arrived a few weeks previously from London, and 
 they were covered with clay, their very beards being clotted 
 with it. After a few preliminary remarks, the following con- 
 versation took place. 
 
 " How do you like this country?" "Not at all." " Have
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 367 
 
 you been successful in digging for treasure?" " We have got 
 a little, but at great labour." " Have you felt disappointed 
 in your anticipations'?" " Very much so: the state of things 
 here has been greatly misrepresented." " What is your inten- 
 tion as to the future?" " To get back to England as soon as 
 possible, to let the people know the truth." "Perhaps if you 
 were to get your portraits taken as you now appear, and send 
 them home, they would give the people a better idea of a 
 digger's life and position than anything else." "Bless you, Sir, 
 were we to do that, our own mothers would not know us!" To 
 this I readily assented. On marking the whole process of gold- 
 digging, I was forcibly reminded of gold being in more senses 
 than one "filthy lucre." 
 
 I found that a storekeeper with whom we dined was greatly 
 respected among the gold-seekers. One of them said to me, 
 " He is a fair trader, a conscientious man, a very religious 
 man, Sir; and never takes advantage of any person." I was 
 thankful to hear such a testimony to religious worth, and not 
 the less so when I found the storekeeper was a member of the 
 Wesleyan church. 
 
 In the course of the day I saw a digger's wedding. The 
 party, in four cars, or rather market-carts, drove through the 
 diggings in costly array, with ribbons floating in rich profusion, 
 and_ in such a " neck-or-nothing " style as to bring every dog 
 from his kennel, and many a digger out of his hole. I trembled 
 for the safety of the party, and for some time expected every 
 moment to see the vehicles upset, and the joy of the occasion 
 turned into mourning. 
 
 On returning to the Mission-House I passed a man with 
 several geese for sale, and on my inquiring their price, he 
 asked the modest sum of 35s. each, which, according to his 
 testimony, was a great reduction of the price geese had pre- 
 viously commanded. Times were getting bad ! 
 
 In the evening I had a walk among the tents, and heard the 
 inmates of several of them singing Wesley's Hymns, which 
 forcibly reminded me of another land. I also gained much 
 information from some parties I met with. One person told
 
 368 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 me that the most successful diggers were Cornishmen and 
 convicts. The previous employment of the former as miners 
 gave them great advantage as diggers; and the State-education 
 of the latter had made them well acquainted with the use of 
 the pick and the shovel, which they used with good effect in 
 obtaining gold. Another person informed me that the Cornish 
 Methodists on the gold-fields, to whose singing we had just 
 been listening, were very zealous, and would not object to a 
 Minister killing himself with hard labour, but would rather 
 praise him for it; and then, gathering devoutly about his 
 corpse, they would lustily sing, 
 
 " Rejoice for a brother deceased." 
 
 25th. Sunday. Christmas-day, and very cold. Yesterday 
 the sun was so hot as to produce a blister on the back of my 
 hand, but to-day I had to wear an overcoat, and a fire in the 
 tent was necessary to prevent me from shivering. At 5 o'clock 
 A.M., I attended a good prayer-meeting. Several appropriate 
 Christmas carols were sung, and many fervent prayers offered. 
 At 11 o'clock I preached, and again in the evening, to large 
 and deeply interesting congregations. Several present had 
 formerly been under my pastoral care; and our meeting on 
 Mount Alexander was therefore attended with peculiar feelings 
 and many reminiscences. In this part of the gold-fields I 
 found five Wesleyan Chapels, or tents ; one capable of accom- 
 modating 700 persons, the others of smaller dimensions, all 
 supplied by Mr. Currey and 14 local-preachers. 
 
 26th. Left Forest Creek for Bendigo, 35 miles distant, but 
 another part of the Mount Alexander gold-fields. We started 
 early, and, after travelling nine miles, called at the Porcupine 
 Inn, and were told by the landlord's father that his son had 
 been twelve months there, and having during that period 
 realized a handsome fortune, was now about to retire. I greatly 
 marvelled at this statement; but when our bill was presented, 
 which showed we were charged 7s. 6d. for a feed of corn, and 
 6s. for a bottle of weak ale, the profit on which must have been
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 369 
 
 at least 1,000 per cent., I ceased to marvel, excepting at the 
 flagrant extortion practised upon us. 
 
 We reached Bendigo at 1 o'clock. The valley through which 
 this creek runs was for miles covered with tents, some of which 
 formed streets and squares, bearing names familiar to those 
 who have lived at the West end of London. The tents were of 
 a superior description to those of Forest Creek; the stores 
 more numerous, and better arranged; and the whole city- 
 looking place presented a most imposing aspect, telling of both 
 labour and reward. 
 
 The Rev. Thomas Raston, our Missionary, and several friends, 
 gave us a hearty welcome. The Quarterly-Meeting of the 
 Circuit being held in the afternoon, I availed myself of the 
 opportunity of attending it, and was gratified with the spirit 
 manifested, and the vigorous character of Methodism in that 
 locality. Piety, intelligence, zeal, and liberality marked the 
 character of the meeting. 
 
 I was kindly furnished with an apartment in a store for 
 sleeping; but the heat was so intolerable, and the large flies so 
 numerous, and so ferocious in their attacks upon the stranger, 
 that I hailed the morning dawn with grateful emotion, as it 
 enabled me to escape from my tormentors. I had previously 
 lodged in many an uncomfortable place, where rats, and mice, 
 and centipedes, and scorpions, and lizards, had disturbed my 
 repose ; but never before had I been so thoroughly beaten : and 
 I felt a willingness to encounter all those enemies again in one 
 grand allied army, rather than have to endure the tortures of 
 such another night of fly-invasion as I suffered at the Bendigo 
 diggings. Never before had I such an idea of the Egyptian 
 plague of flies as was this night so painfully taught me ! 
 
 27th. Breakfasted with Mr. and Mrs. Burrall in their tent, 
 and was treated with generous hospitality. After breakfast I 
 called upon Mr. Raston, and received an account of the severe 
 privations connected with his recent shipwreck on the coast of 
 Brazil, from the effects of which his excellent wife was still 
 suffering. Whilst I was there a digger came to be married. 
 The eyes of the " intended" were black, as the result of a severe 
 
 B0
 
 370 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 beating she had received from him, and for which brutal 
 assault, a few days previously, he had been fined by a Magis- 
 trate the sum of twenty pounds; and yet, when the Minister 
 said, " Wilt thou have this man to be thy wedded husband 1 " 
 the woman, nothing daunted, notwithstanding her black eyes, 
 emphatically said, " I WILL ! " 
 
 After inspecting many of the diggings, I attended a tea- 
 meeting in the afternoon at White Hills. It was held in our 
 tent-chapel, and numerously attended, chiefly by Cornish people, 
 many of whom I had known in that land " whose stones are 
 iron, and out of whose hills thou mayest dig brass." The tea- 
 meeting, with its saffron cake, was got up in the best style of 
 Cornwall Having been requested to give the assembly an 
 account of my recent visit to the Polynesian Islands, I spoke 
 for an hour and a half; after which I baptized five children, 
 gave an address on baptism, and then preached a sermon. A 
 collection was made to defray the cost of the chapel, and the 
 required amount was contributed. 
 
 I received a few small nuggets as tokens of friendship, and 
 many expressions of thankfulness for my visit. I was grateful 
 to find that so many of our people had remained faithful, and 
 were prosecuting their religious duties with vigour and success. 
 I also learned with much satisfaction that several persons at 
 the diggings had found that which is more precious than gold, 
 and were laying up treasure in heaven. Not fewer than a 
 hundred conversions to God had taken place in connection with 
 Bendigo, and the old members had been greatly quickened and 
 invigorated. One person told me he had come in search of 
 gold, and had found the "pearl of great price." But there 
 were other individuals who had proved unfaithful, and become 
 dissipated. One of that class came to me in a state of intoxi- 
 cation, and described the great benefit he had received from 
 my ministry ! He moreover urged me to preach from a certain 
 text, and offered to give me a tumbler full of nuggets if I 
 would do so ! A most affecting case. 
 
 With regard to the social condition of the people in the gold- 
 fields, the subject is so wide that only some general features
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 371 
 
 of it can be noticed. It is now generally known that the best 
 diggings are exhausted : that whereas eighteen months ago an 
 ounce a day per man was the ordinary yield, now men willingly 
 toil for one-fourth part of that amount. In those palmy and 
 " golden " days men were completely reckless of their wealth. 
 Enormous prices were charged for the common necessaries of 
 life, and those extravagant prices were cheerfully paid. Men 
 did not care what they spent; neither did they care for the 
 prices of goods; but a great change has now taken place. 
 Although the cost of various articles of food, &c., has not been 
 greatly reduced, yet the diggers are now wary and economical 
 of their gold. 
 
 "Without attempting to darken the scene," says Mr. Raston, 
 " there is an amount of misery and wretchedness in the diggings 
 quite unknown to those not residing on the spot. There will 
 always be a class of unsuccessful miners. Physically unqualified, 
 their strength fails under the severe labour; disappointment 
 leads on to a course of dissipation, with all its train of evils, 
 disease, and death. Numbers of these unfortunate beings are 
 found wandering in the bush, in a state of complete insanity, 
 or madness; and hundreds die, and are thrown into empty 
 holes, or are buried in some obscure corner, far away from the 
 knowledge or interference of the governing powers. At this 
 season of the year diseases are particularly rife, and as far as 
 cases do come under our notice they are indeed melancholy 
 and distressing. Without proper food, without any kind 
 attentions, without any comforting voice or hand to soothe 
 their last moments, hundreds have passed into another world, 
 unknown and unlamented." 
 
 The life of a gold-digger is often sketched more for effect 
 than for truth. The fortunate digger, as he is seen squandering 
 his money in Melbourne, or in other places, may inspire those 
 around him with enthusiasm. But things as seen on the gold- 
 fields are very different : four or five diggers are generally 
 huddled together in one small tent, often not more than ten 
 feet square, made of a single ply of cotton cloth, and wholly 
 incapable of keeping out the rain, which pours through as from
 
 372 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 a sieve; and the heat, at this season of the year, scorches up 
 everything inside the tent; whilst myriads of large flies are 
 continually annoying everybody, and destroying everything; 
 and, above all, the very dust seems to be alive with fleas. The 
 digger having finished a hard day's work in a narrow confined 
 hole, half covered with water, (sometimes for weeks and months 
 not getting a speck of gold,) at night retires, with four or five 
 weary companions, to rest upon the bare ground of the tent, 
 covering himself with a soiled blanket. His food is constantly 
 fat mutton and bread, with a pint of bitter-tea. No wonder 
 that so many look sickly and haggard, and that thousands are 
 continually wandering about from one section of the gold-fields 
 to another. 
 
 There is, however, in what is called the township of Sand- 
 hurst, a rapidly improving state of things. The people have 
 more social comfort, a better class of dwellings, and more of 
 the natural appliances of life. And when the lands shall be 
 unlocked, and people can be assured that they are not building 
 on, nor cultivating, lands which may be torn from them, there 
 is no question of a still greater improvement. 
 
 With regard to the moral state of society, there is a great 
 variety of opinions, and those opinions are widely different. " I 
 have examined the records of crime at the Police Court," says 
 Mr. Raston, " and find that an average of twenty-five cases are 
 arraigned every day. Many of the charges are of a frightful 
 character : shooting and stabbing with intent, brutality of 
 husbands, &c., all resulting from drunkenness. There are 
 some burglaries, but horse-stealing seems to be the master- 
 crime of the country. Yet, considering the vast amount of 
 population, 31,000, scattered over a large extent of country, 
 at least thirty miles in circumference, and comprising some 
 of the worst men from all parts of the world, I feel bound 
 to admit that the morality of the diggings here is above the 
 common average." 
 
 It is stated, however, that the present class of diggers is 
 entirely new; that the successful men have left the field, and 
 returned to England, or the neighbouring colonies, where
 
 THE SOUTHERN WOELD. 373 
 
 greater facilities are offered for investment of capital in land; 
 but, whether attributable to a change in population or not, it 
 is admitted on all hands that so great is the change that 
 there is now more feeling of security, both as to person 
 and property, here than in Melbourne; whilst formerly it 
 was positively dangerous even to be supposed to have gold 
 or money. 
 
 Another way of accounting for the general security is, that 
 the "revolver" has found a lodgment in every tent; and 
 every digger being well armed, and prepared for self-defence, 
 men are deterred from acts of theft. This will undoubtedly 
 exert some influence upon the population; but there is, un- 
 questionably, a higher ground to be taken. The influence of 
 the Christian Church is, in my judgment, the chief cause of 
 the moral improvement which has taken place. Religion is 
 everywhere respected, its Ministers honoured, and all places of 
 worship are well attended. Christianity here does not merge 
 itself does not lose its identity. It stands out in bold relief 
 and full expression, and the distinction between the man of 
 God and the man of the world is so striking and manifest, 
 and is so generally acknowledged and felt, that an ame- 
 liorating and moralizing influence is diffused among the 
 community. 
 
 Questions answered by Mr. Raston : 
 
 "1. As many members of the Wesleyan church have emi- 
 grated to this region, have they generally been found faithful 1 ?" 
 
 " Whether many members of the Wesleyan church have 
 emigrated to this region, the gold-field, I do not know, nor have 
 I any means of knowing. With but few exceptions, the whole 
 of our members in the Sandhurst Circuit are from the neigh- 
 bouring colonies, and from other parts of Victoria, and not 
 direct from England. Of their deep and fervent piety, their 
 fine Christian principle, and their zeal for the cause of God, I 
 have the highest opinion, and no case of defection has occurred 
 during the past four months. That there are many other 
 persons on the diggings who have been members of our church 
 in various parts of the world, may be readily conjectured; but
 
 374 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 if so, they are not now joined with us. Many present their 
 credentials of membership in Melbourne : what reception they 
 there meet with is not for me to affirm, or whether they 
 maintain their integrity." 
 
 "2. Have you witnessed any cases of conversion to God 
 amongst the diggers?" 
 
 " About six months ago, there was a great revival of 
 religion at White Hills: some hundreds were converted to 
 God, and the writer has heard many express their thankfulness 
 for having come to the gold-fields, that it was here they 
 obtained the ' pearl of great price,' more to be valued than 
 all the gold in the universe. The work alluded to was carried 
 on entirely by the lay-members, there being then no Minister in 
 the place. During the last four months there have been many 
 additions to the Society, and many signal conversions to God : 
 many have become members who had previously belonged to no 
 branch of the Church of Christ. Not a week passes without 
 conversions to God." 
 
 " 3. How many chapels are there in your Circuit, and what 
 number of local-preachers assist you in supplying them 1 " 
 
 " We have at present five places of worship, which we call 
 chapels. Four of these places are canvass, covering a prepared 
 wooden frame. The one at White Hills has cost X245. We 
 have only one wooden building at present, but it is pro- 
 posed that a large and respectable chapel, either of wood or 
 stone, shall be built at Sandhurst, as soon as the land can be 
 obtained from the Government. We have also several places 
 of open-air preaching, which are well supplied and well 
 attended. 
 
 " In the month of September last, the local-preachers 
 numbered twenty names on the plan ; now there are only four 
 remaining, so great are the changes incident to the gold-fields. 
 The faithfulness, the activity, the zeal, and the spirituality of 
 the local brethren who have assisted in this Circuit, are 
 beyond all praise." 
 
 " 4. What are the present state and prospects of Methodism 
 in this part of the gold-fields?"
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 375 
 
 " The Bendigo gold-fields are emphatically called ' dry 
 diggings.' In the summer months the people leave by thou- 
 sands, and return on the approach of the rainy-season. So far 
 as I am acquainted with the nature of the Bendigo diggings, I 
 believe they will yield remunerative labour for many years 
 to come, perhaps not to individual labour so much as to 
 working companies. But any better discovery would greatly 
 alter the prospect. A striking illustration has just presented 
 itself. A rich gold-field is discovered, and there is a complete 
 exodus. Bendigo, for the present, is greatly reduced in its 
 population. Unquestionably, the rainy-season will bring many 
 back ; and especially when the land is sold, there will be a less 
 migratory population. 
 
 " In October last we had 200 accredited members ; there are 
 not now more than 60. Probably, before the end of January, 
 we shall have fewer still The members of our Society, 
 however, form but a small proportion of the members of our 
 congregations. 
 
 " The Wesleyan church stands high in public estimation, 
 and certainly takes the lead in enterprise and usefulness. But 
 what may be its future history in this locality is quite uncer- 
 tain. Let us have the people, and we fear not for the future. 
 It is God's own work, and it must prosper." 
 
 " 5. What is the number and state of your Schools ?" 
 
 " First. Day-schools. The school at White Hills is under 
 the care of a very efficient master. The scholars have just 
 been examined, and have given evidence that this is the highest 
 school in the diggings. Scholars, 55. In the school at Golden- 
 square there has been much improvement in general know- 
 ledge. Scholars, 64. In both schools, which are examined 
 quarterly, there is great order and good conduct; but the 
 children are young, and were mostly untaught when first 
 entered. Each school receives a grant of 100 per annum 
 from the Denominational School Board. 
 
 " Second. Sabbath-schools. In the Circuit we have four of 
 these schools; 170 scholars attend, with 24 teachers. Rule 
 and order are strictly preserved, and the management of the
 
 376 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 excellent teachers is such as to win the affections of the 
 children, and to insure a regular attendance.* 
 
 "In concluding these replies I would observe, that what is 
 statistical is correct, what is descriptive may be vastly differ- 
 ent with the experience of next week. In no part of the world 
 is the mutability of human affairs so apparent. The diggers 
 are exceedingly moveable goods. At every 'rush,' there is a 
 rush indeed. In our church-matters we organize, arrange, and 
 make our plans, which, in a few weeks or days, are all over- 
 turned, and almost every week necessitates an alteration. 
 Under these circumstances the position of a Minister is one 
 which requires much patience and perseverance. 
 
 " Whatever may be the future state moral, civil, and reli- 
 gious of this section of the gold-fields of Australia is all 
 unknown. But it is the general opinion that Bendigo will 
 become more densely populated than ever in the ensuing 
 winter; and that, when the land sales are effected, there will 
 be a greater fixity of all interests." 
 
 28th. Started for Melbourne. Passed several squatting 
 establishments; and after a day most toilsome in consequence 
 of the excessive heat and dust, we reached Castlemain, on the 
 Forest Creek diggings, about 6 o'clock, overpowered with 
 fatigue. Our friends had got up a large tea-meeting, and were 
 waiting for our arrival. Mr. Hitchcock, brother of the well- 
 known Mr. Hitchcock, of London, had kindly offered his 
 spacious and convenient saleroom for the occasion. The tables 
 were beautifully arranged, the provisions ample, and of the best 
 quality, and the attendance about 800. The meeting was 
 addressed by several Ministers and gentlemen, and a resolution, 
 approving of the object of my mission, was unanimously and 
 
 * Sir Charles Hotham, the Governor, visited Bendigo on September 4th, 
 1854, and was presented with a loyal address by a deputation from the 
 Wesleyan Body. The Rev. T. Raston says, " His Excellency received 
 the deputation with great courtesy; expressed his entire satisfaction in 
 the labours and successes of the Wesleyan church in this colony; and 
 said that throughout the gold-fields which he had visited, the Wesleyans 
 were pre-eminent, and effecting more than any other church in the great 
 work of education."
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 377 
 
 most heartily adopted. At the conclusion, a collection was 
 made, amounting to 130, which sum fully paid the chapel 
 debts recently incurred in this part of the gold-fields. 
 
 We remained at the " Criterion Inn," but the landlord would 
 not receive anything for our accommodation. This was a mark 
 of great respect paid to the office we sustained. 
 
 In reply to various inquiries relative to the Forest Creek 
 gold-fields, I received from the Rev. W. C. Currey the follow- 
 ing communication : 
 
 " When the gold-fields were first discovered, a great number 
 of prisoners from Van Diemen's Land made their way to them. 
 Having obtained an abundance of wealth, they thought they 
 had a right to spend it as they pleased. In consequence of 
 the inducements offered, the police, with other Government 
 employes, left their situations, and thus completely disorganized 
 society. When I arrived in Melbourne, the city appeared to 
 be in the possession of the mob, and every man did what 
 seemed right in his own eyes. A change, however, has been 
 effected. 
 
 " The number of inhabitants on the principal gold-fields is 
 about 80,000, that is, about one-third of the population of 
 the colony. The population of Mount Alexander, including 
 Forest Creek and Bendigo, has generally been about the same 
 in number : very great fluctuations take place between the two 
 places; sometimes the population in one place doubles that of 
 the other, Bendigo being preferred in winter, and Forest Creek 
 in summer. 
 
 " Although the population may remain about the same as to 
 number, the individuals of which it is composed are constantly 
 changing : it is like the ebb and flow of the sea. The average 
 stay of each party is, I should think, about three months. The 
 same parties may return, but still their stay, while in the 
 gold-fields, is no longer than three months. The alterations 
 are sudden, and the effect most amusing. What is called a 
 ' rush' takes place, and, in a few days, where not an indication 
 of man's existence was perceivable, thousands are congregated. 
 First appear a few carts, on which are placed the diggers'
 
 378 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 tools, clothes, &c. The tents are soon pitched, trees cut down, 
 fires lit, and all the hurry and bustle of a busy encampment 
 at once is seen. In a short period butchers' shops are erected, 
 stores make their appearance, medical men exhibit their signs, 
 lawyers announce their presence, and all the blessings of 
 civilized life are placed within reach of the lucky digger. The 
 varied character of the signs is most amusing : on the one hand 
 you observe 'Best London Boots;' on the other 'New York 
 Lodging-house.' Here you see 'Restaurant of all Nations;' 
 there you observe ' Adelaide Boarding-house.' Every nation 
 and colony is here represented in the flags and signs exhibited, 
 with the exception of Van Diemen's Land. 
 
 " These encampments are formed with great rapidity, and 
 disappear with equal celerity. I have observed, several times, 
 encampments consisting of from five to ten thousand people 
 formed in the course of a few days, and as rapidly melt away; 
 the ruins of a golden city being nothing more than a few sod 
 chimneys, and broken bottles strewed all around. 
 
 " With regard to the productiveness of the gold-fields, I may 
 remark, that I was in South Australia when the exodus for the 
 diggings first commenced; that I stayed until the return of 
 the first parties; and I fully believe that the accounts 
 published in the local papers as to the success "*of different 
 parties were not exaggerated. Not one person from the 
 extensive district in which I resided came . back without 
 obtaining gold : they were absent about twelve weeks, and the 
 lowest sum obtained by any individual was one hundred and 
 seventy pounds. 
 
 " The yield of gold is not now so large as it was, but, on 
 the other hand, provisions are much cheaper than they were, 
 and the diggers obtain a far better price for the gold at 
 the diggings. At one time the price of gold was only 
 2 15s.; then it rose to 3 6s.; at the present time it is 
 3 Us. 6d., generally within a shilling of the Melbourne price. 
 I know that the diggers often complain, and the more they 
 obtain the more they complain. They have their reasons for 
 acting thus. First, for fear that some one should come, and
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 379 
 
 drive in on them. Secondly, from fear that they may be 
 robbed, if it be known that they have gold. I used to reckon 
 that the average earnings of the diggers were 500 per annum, 
 but I feel inclined to modify the amount now. I think if we 
 say 1 per day, or .365 per annum, we shall give but a low 
 estimate. I have made these calculations with much care. Of 
 course many diggers make far more than this, but then many 
 make less. 
 
 " When at Balaarat I stayed at the house of a man whom I 
 knew when at Geelong. He was employed as a quarryman. 
 On the day I arrived at Balaarat he brought up, as the result 
 of the day's work of his party, a quart-pot full of nuggets. 
 From that hole they took eighty pounds weight of gold. They 
 had about 2,000 tubs to wash ; and the day I left they sold the 
 hole for 200 cash, having no more time to spend at it. Of 
 course they had taken out the greater part, or they would not 
 have sold it. Mr. Vipont, the Missionary there, told me that 
 this man, who is not thirty years of age, has at the present time 
 nearly 20,000 in the bank. Mr. Harding's nephew has just 
 left off digging. He had not made more than 20 for the 
 last month. I submit that 240 per year is not bad pay; but 
 then he had the offer of a situation, and preferred a regular 
 salary. 
 
 " A Cornishman, whom I knew in Adelaide, came to me one 
 day, and said he was going to Bendigo, as he found that the 
 diggings at Fryer's Creek did not pay. I asked him what he 
 had made there; he answered, that he had done very wisht 
 to what he had when in Forest Creek, for he had not obtained 
 more than half an ounce per day, about 10 per week. This 
 was the way in which they used to talk. 
 
 " Indeed to write all I know of individual success would occupy 
 so much time that I cannot attempt it. I know there have 
 been many failures, and at many of these I do not wonder; 
 but I have not known an instance of a man or woman willing 
 to work, who has not been able to do well. In fact, we require 
 a new vocabulary to suit the expectations and wishes of the 
 diggers. Many who in England were satisfied with 8s. or 10s.
 
 380 THE SOUTHERN WOELD. 
 
 per week, now talk about hundreds with an ease that would 
 quite astonish their companions at home. I have now a request 
 to obtain a woman as a servant in the hospital; we pay the 
 person at present there the sum of 3 per week. I was unable 
 to obtain a master for the School at Wesley Hill, during the 
 whole of last quarter, with a Government salary of 2 per 
 week, and fees about .3 per week more. I was applied to by 
 a gentleman of my acquaintance, to recommend a man and his 
 wife as general servants; I asked the salary, and was told it 
 was 165 per annum, and rations. An advertisement appeared 
 in the paper yesterday, offering piecework on the roads by 
 which parties could obtain <! per day. 
 
 " The price of food on the diggings is about 25 per cent, 
 more than in town; but then, on the other hand, there are 
 great advantages, the climate is favourable, there is no house- 
 rent to pay, nothing for wood or water, so that a family, if 
 they possess a tent, can live cheaper than in town. 
 
 "The people, upon the whole, have conducted themselves 
 well. The reports in the public papers were, in many cases, 
 untrue, and others greatly exaggerated. I never lived in any 
 place with the same number of people, where there was so 
 little disturbance, or where there was greater security of life 
 and property. For eighteen months I did not see a fight or 
 disturbance of any consequence. I have seen upwards of 700 
 diggers at once chasing a thief, or thieves ; and I feel confident, 
 that were the matter investigated, it would be found that the 
 greater number of the thieves captured have been taken by 
 the diggers, and placed under the control of the police. This 
 absence of riot, so rife in other localities, I attribute in a 
 great measure to the prohibition of the sale of intoxicating 
 drinks: since the public-houses have been opened it is very 
 different. 
 
 " As a church we have accomplished much. We were the 
 first to preach the Gospel in the gold-fields, erect chapels, com- 
 mence Sunday-schools; and we have been made an abundant 
 blessing. Mr. Symons commenced to labour there, in conjunc- 
 tion with Mr. Chapman, in the month of February, 1852.
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 381 
 
 They had to submit to great privations, in common with the 
 diggers. They had to perform all the domestic duties for them- 
 selves. I went to the diggings in August, 1852. Mr. Symons 
 had left for Adelaide. I found one chapel, and now at Forest 
 Creek alone we have five. We have also 14 Local-preachers 
 with 7 Class-leaders, 107 full members, and I believe three 
 times as many who are members elsewhere, and hope soon to 
 return to their friends. 
 
 "We have to endure hardships; but I have laid down this 
 principle, that what any number of men can do for gold, I can 
 do for Christ. We have had glorious manifestations of the 
 Divine presence, souls saved, believers comforted; and although 
 we have been unfaithful, I hope that God has been glorified. 
 
 "With regard to the general question of emigration to this 
 colony, it is the opinion of gentlemen well acquainted with the 
 subject that there is room for all: and that the colony of. 
 Victoria would support a larger agricultural population than 
 any other colony in the Southern Hemisphere. The Govern- 
 ment are now surveying the land in the neighbourhood of the 
 gold-fields, and when this is sold the miners will settle down, 
 and great benefit will result. 
 
 " There are hospitals at the principal gold-fields. The one 
 established at Castlemain is one of the best-conducted institu- 
 tions in the colony. We give our surgeon 500 per annum, 
 with board and apartments. There is accommodation for 25 
 patients. The diggers, as a class, are always ready to relieve 
 cases of distress. Mr. H. D., of Tuckingmill, died some time 
 since, leaving a widow and three children, and in a short time 
 the sum of 276 was collected for them. 
 
 " The diggers comprise in their number men of all classes. 
 I have seen Justices of the Peace, members of the University, 
 Clergymen, Dissenting Ministers, and members of the most 
 respectable families, engaged in gold-digging. They learned, 
 in many instances for the first time, the full effect of the curse, 
 and will, no doubt, respect the working classes as long as they 
 live." 
 
 29th. We left early, that we might rest during the heat of
 
 382 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 the day. In taking my leave of the gold-fields, I could not 
 but feel thankful to God for the good which existed thereon. 
 I left with a much more favourable impression relative to the 
 moral condition of the digging population than I had pre- 
 viously received from newspaper reports. But as it is con- 
 stantly changing, it may, in a few days, present a very different 
 phase. The Gospel, however, is there, and will doubtless still 
 be corrective. 
 
 After a hard day's travelling, we reached Gisbourne about 
 8 o'clock, and were again comfortably accommodated at the 
 " Mount Macedon Hotel." 
 
 30^. Started at 4 o'clock A.M., and travelled 18 miles to 
 breakfast. The inn at which we stopped was kept by a 
 person who had once been an excellent local-preacher in 
 England. It appeared that about two years ago, he, as a poor 
 man, became a publican, and since then had realized 1 0,000. 
 But as the result, according to his own spontaneous statement, 
 he had lost all sense of religion, learned to drink freely, and 
 was truly a miserable man. " They that will be rich fall into 
 temptation and a snare." Many spoke of this man as very 
 fortunate. But " what shall it profit a man, if he shall gain 
 the whole world, and lose his own soul?" 
 
 About 3 o'clock we reached Melbourne in safety. During 
 our tour I asked scores of persons, including individuals of 
 nearly every class of society, two questions; namely, Does the 
 state of things in the colony meet the expectations you had 
 formed of it previously to your arrival? And, Is it your 
 intention to settle in this colony 1 ? To each of these questions 
 in every case from recent emigrants, the reply was a most 
 decided and emphatic No. They spoke of the climate, and 
 their unexpected discomforts, as reasons for returning to their 
 native land as soon as possible. Others, however, who had 
 been a few years in the colony, and who had got over their 
 home-sickness, and learned to "rough it," spoke very dif- 
 ferently on the subject. 
 
 On our journey to Melbourne we met many vehicles laden 
 with goods, and conveying women and children to the gold-
 
 THE SOTJTHEBN WORLD. 383 
 
 fields, some of whom looked exceedingly miserable. Numbers 
 of men were also wending their way thither with heavy loads, 
 and so burnt with the sun, and covered with dust, that their 
 most intimate friends would hardly have been able to identify 
 them. If men in their attempts to lay up treasure in heaven 
 were to practise similar self-denial, and endure similar hard- 
 ships, their success would be complete; but, alas! "the children 
 of this world are wiser in their generation than the children 
 of light!" 
 
 31st. Concluded the year with solemn thoughts. To me it 
 had been an eventful year. I had been in perils in the "sea, 
 in perils in the wilderness, in perils amongst the Heathen, 
 and in deaths oft; and I trust, on a review of the whole, 
 my heart was sincerely grateful to my gracious Benefactor and 
 Preserver. 
 
 CHAPTER XYIL 
 
 NEW-YEAR Hot wind and dust-storm Departure for Van Diemen's 
 Land Arrival in Launceston Journey through the island Hobart- 
 Town Various meetings Sandy-Bay Return to Launceston More 
 meetings Contributions for additional Ministers Inconvenience of 
 departing from a penal .Colony Rise and progress of Methodism in the 
 land Arrival in Melbourne Meetings Review of the Mission in 
 Victoria Mission to the Aborigines Cause of. its failure Native 
 Institution at Mount Franklin: 
 
 NEW-YBAB'S DAT, 1854. I felt the rapid flight of time very 
 instructive. " For what is your life? It is even a vapour that 
 appeareth for a short time, and then vanisheth away." I 
 preached in Collins-street morning and evening, and in the 
 afternoon took part in the covenant-service. A good day, the 
 fruit of which I hope will appear in eternity.
 
 384 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 January %d. Dined with Mr. Pascoe, at St. Kilda. Pro- 
 vidence having recently blessed him with large wealth, I was 
 happy to find him willing to support the cause of God with an 
 enlightened liberality; for, in addition to his contribution in 
 behalf of Australia, he spontaneously offered me 100 to be 
 added to the Connexional Fund for the relief of the various 
 institutions of Methodism in England. 
 
 3d. A most fearful day in Melbourne. A hot wind blew 
 from the North, and with such power as to fill the atmosphere 
 with dust. It appeared as if the earth had been torn in 
 pieces and pulverized, and then scattered in 'wild confusion 
 over the city; the dust partially obscuring the sun, and 
 rendering it perilous for mortals to open their eyes. The wind, 
 too, was not merely warm, but hot, as if coming from a moun- 
 tain of fire, or from ten thousand furnaces in some very 
 contiguous region; and produced such a sense of suffocation 
 as was truly alarming, especially to invalids. Never, in any 
 part of the world, had I previously experienced such a dreadful 
 day. Happily such days are not of frequent occurrence, or 
 Australia would be insupportable. 
 
 I left the city at 11 o'clock for Van Diemen's Land, and, 
 though greatly relieved, I was not entirely freed from the 
 dreadful tempest of fiery wind and dust, until I had gone 
 some miles from shore. Nor did the veil which I wore afford 
 me much protection. 
 
 4th. After a very quick passage by the "Lady Bird" 
 steamer, I arrived in Launceston about 7 o'clock P.M. The 
 town is 40 miles from the sea. The river Tamar, leading to 
 it, is very serpentine, and generally fringed on either side with 
 the native forest. A few cultivated spots were seen on the 
 mountain slopes, and the fields were white unto the harvest. 
 George-Town, in one of the bends of the river, presented 
 evidence of much taste; and as it is intended mainly for the 
 accommodation of persons visiting this locality for the purpose 
 of bathing, it will no doubt become a place of fashionable resort. 
 
 On landing at Launceston I asked the way to the Wesleyan 
 Chapel, and the respectable individual to whom I spoke,
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 385 
 
 inquired, "To what Denomination of Christians does that 
 chapel belong?" I went on, and repeated my inquiry to 
 another person; and after rubbing his forehead for some time, 
 as if to awaken his ideas, he sent me to the Scotch Church. 
 From these casual occurrences I concluded that Methodism 
 had not filled Launceston with its doctrines. After some other 
 difficulties I arrived at the Mission-House, and met with a 
 hearty welcome from the Rev. J. Innes, and his devoted wife. 
 5th, Examined the town, which lies in a basin. It contains 
 many good buildings, and several places of worship. Com- 
 mercially, I found it in a very healthy state; but the convict- 
 gangs that appeared in the streets presented a very dark shade 
 in the otherwise pleasant picture. 
 
 6^. Started by coach, at 5 o'clock A.M., for Hobart-Town, 
 a distance of 120 miles. The road having been macadamized 
 by the convicts, was very good, and the travelling rapid, 
 averaging ten miles an hour. I was pleased with the appear- 
 ance of the country. It did not, however, seem so rich or so ex- 
 tensively cultivated as I had expected. For more than half the 
 way only a few farms had been redeemed from the forest, and 
 those not very productive; but as we came within about forty 
 miles of Hobart-Town I perceived a great improvement, 
 beautiful farms on either side of the road, with their fields 
 either reaped or ready for the sickle; and the remainder of the 
 road was through a romantic and generally rich and cultivated 
 country. 
 
 In my journey I passed through Perth, Campbell-Town, 
 Ross, Oatlands, Green Ponds, Bagdad, Brighton, and Bridge- 
 water; all villages or towns generally indicating prosperity, and 
 few of them without a Wesleyan Chapel. I also went through 
 Jericho, nigh unto Jerusalem, and passed over Jordan ! 
 
 7th. Took a -drive through Hobart-Town, and was much 
 delighted with its thoroughly English appearance. It is 
 beautifully situated on the bank of the Derwent, at the foot 
 of Mount Wellington, a snow-capped mountain, 4,000 feet 
 high ; and comprises many buildings which would not disgrace 
 any part of the West end of London.
 
 38G THE SOUTHEBN WORLD. 
 
 8th. Sunday. Preached twice in the Wesleyan Chapel, a 
 substantial building, which will accommodate 1,500 hearers; 
 but it was indifferently attended. The gold-fields, I understood, 
 having attracted many who formerly worshipped within its 
 walls, it was left with but a skeleton of a congregation. The 
 diggers, however, were beginning to return, and some of them 
 with considerable wealth. 
 
 9th. Held a District Meeting of the Ministers, and in the 
 evening attended the Annual Missionary Meeting. Joseph 
 Hone, Esq., Master of the Supreme Court and Chairman of 
 the Quarter Sessions, occupied the chair, and the Meeting 
 was addressed by Ministers of different Denominations. The 
 people were evidently deeply interested, and they contributed 
 liberally. 
 
 IQth. The object of my deputation having been fully stated 
 to the District Meeting, the Ministers, after a lengthy conver- 
 sation, expressed unanimously their approval of the proposed 
 new Ecclesiastical arrangements. 
 
 llth. To-day the Stewards attended the District Meeting, 
 and, after transacting the usual financial business, they con- 
 sidered the object of my mission to these colonies, and expressed 
 their hearty concurrence in the same. 
 
 In the evening a tea-meeting was held, and an Address, in- 
 dicating very kind feeling, and high Christian principle, was 
 presented to me with much courtesy. In the course of the 
 evening it was agreed that two additional Ministers should be 
 procured from England; and the sum of 250 was at once 
 contributed to meet the expenses of their outfit and passage. 
 One gentleman present, who had given a great deal to religious 
 and benevolent objects, said he had never felt sorry for giving, 
 but had often felt sorry for not giving. The spirit of the 
 meeting was highly satisfactory. 
 
 12th. This morning I visited Sandy-Bay, a lovely spot 
 about two miles from Hobart-Town. The gentleman who 
 drove me there I had known as a very poor man in England; 
 but having, as he said, several years ago given his heart to 
 God in connection with my ministry, he wished to show me
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 387 
 
 how the Lord had blessed him. He therefore drove me in his 
 own phaeton, and showed me through the beautiful premises 
 he had lately purchased for his residence. Having obtained 
 sufficient wealth, he had retired from business, and intended to 
 devote the residue of his days to the service of God and his 
 Church. He was not puffed up ; and did not say, " My own 
 arm hath gotten me the victory;" but meekly ascribed his 
 temporal blessings to the goodness of God, and evidently felt 
 his increased responsibility. At our Missionary Meeting he had 
 given a cheque for 10, and at the tea-meeting a cheque for 
 30, to procure additional Ministers for the colony. Whilst 
 he thus salts his property, it will be preserved, and rendered a 
 great blessing to him. 
 
 After having been most hospitably entertained by Mr. 
 Rowland Waterhouse during my stay in Hobart-Town, I left 
 this evening by the mail for Launceston. Mrs. Waterhouse, 
 the widow of the late Rev. John Waterhouse, kindly presented 
 me with two manuscript letters of the late Rev. John Wesley, 
 a gift duly appreciated. [Note /.] 
 
 13th. Arrived at Launceston at 10 o'clock. Only a few 
 years ago the journey occupied seven days; now it is per- 
 formed in about twelve hours. In the afternoon a gentleman 
 kindly sent me a basket of mulberries from his garden, which 
 were most delicious, and surpassed any fruit of the kind I had 
 previously tasted. The fruit of the island I found very good; 
 and as it was now the season for gooseberries, peaches, apricots, 
 apples, &c., I had a great treat, and especially of gooseberries. 
 
 I4:tk. Several friends called upon me, some from a great 
 distance; and all expressed their hearty attachment to our Body, 
 and their willingness to aid in giving effect to the new arrange- 
 ment about to be made. 
 
 I5th. Sunday. 1 preached twice in the beautiful Wesleyan 
 Chapel, in behalf of the Missionary Society. The congregations 
 were large and respectable. A day of much comfort. 
 
 16th. The Missionary Meeting was held this evening; J. W. 
 Gleadow, Esq., M.L.S., occupied the chair, and delivered an 
 excellent speech. Ministers of different Denominations spoke. 
 
 s 2
 
 388 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 Deep interest was excited, and a liberal collection, much in 
 advance of former years, was the result. 
 
 17 th. Attended a public breakfast, and was presented with 
 a highly gratifying Address. We had some superior speaking, 
 and a fine glow of hallowed feeling. As the Hobart-Town 
 friends had contributed an amount to pay the expenses of two 
 Ministers to the colony, the Launceston friends also liberally 
 contributed 200 for a similar purpose, that four instead of 
 two might be sent, as soon as possible, to occupy fields of labour 
 greatly needing them. 
 
 I took luncheon with Alderman Crooks, and he and many 
 kind friends accompanied me to the ship, which left at 2 
 o'clock for Melbourne. How cementing is religious feeling! 
 I had been hardly a fortnight in Van Diemen's Land, and yet 
 already felt such oneness of spirit with many of the people, 
 that it was not without a pang I left them; believing, as I did, 
 that our personal intercourse in this world was at an end, and 
 that I should see their faces no more. May we meet in a 
 better land! 
 
 We passed rapidly down the river as far as George-Town, 
 where we were detained an hour, to be inspected by Govern- 
 ment officials. This arrangement is no doubt necessary to 
 prevent the escape of convicts; but it was more than humili- 
 ating to be questioned on the subject of one's liberty. Some 
 on board had been convicts, but as the term of their exile 
 had transpired, they appeared not a little embarrassed when 
 required to produce the legal document proving their liberty; 
 especially in the presence of their fellow-passengers, whom they 
 would have wished to remain in ignorance of their former 
 history. 
 
 18th. After a fine passage we reached Hobson's Bay in the 
 evening, but could not go on shore until the Government 
 official had been on board, to ascertain that we were all free 
 men; and as he did not make his appearance until 8 
 o'clock the following morning, we were detained on board all 
 night. So much for having come from a penal colony! 
 
 The rise and progress of Methodism in Van Diemen's Land
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 389 
 
 is very instructive and gratifying. The vessel in which the 
 Rev. B. Carvosso sailed from England to New South Wales 
 put into the Derwent to land part of her cargo and passengers 
 at Hobart-Town, in April, 1820. Mr. Carvosso found the 
 people almost destitute of the means of grace, and by far the 
 greater part of them living in open violation of the laws of 
 God, doing evil, " only evil, and that continually." Mr. Car- 
 vosso's spirit was greatly moved by what he saw around him, 
 and he at once began to publish the glad news of salvation to 
 those whose ears had for a long period been unaccustomed to 
 listen to the name of Jesus as the Saviour of sinful men. The 
 Missionary and his now sainted wife took their stand on the 
 steps of a small building then used as a Court-House. Mr. 
 Carvosso preached the word of life to a numerous congregation, 
 and Mrs.' Carvosso conducted the psalmody. These services 
 were repeated at intervals, until the sailing of the vessel for 
 New South Wales called the zealous pair away. The impression 
 thus made was deepened by similar services rendered by the 
 Rev. R. Mansfield, who also called at Van Diemen's Land on 
 his way to New South Wales. Mr. Carvosso, by the first 
 opportunity, wrote to the Secretaries of the Wesleyan Mis- 
 sionary Society in London, giving a description of the colony, 
 the state of moral and spiritual destitution of the people, and 
 urging the appointment of a Missionary as soon as prac- 
 ticable. Before a reply to this letter could be received, a few 
 pious soldiers, belonging to the 48th regiment, who had been 
 brought to the knowledge of the truth in New South Wales, 
 arrived in Hobart-Town. No sooner were these pious men 
 settled in the barracks than they saw that the wickedness of 
 the place was very great, and immediately began to inquire 
 for some convenient place in which to hold a meeting for 
 prayer. In this they at length succeeded, but were ere long 
 called to endure persecution for righteousness' sake. The 
 meeting of the praying soldiers soon began to excite attention ; 
 many of the town's-people found their way to the humble 
 sanctuary, and some were convinced of sin, and brought to a 
 knowledge of the truth. At this Satan began to rage. Many
 
 390 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 of the people " of the baser sort" assembled around the cottage 
 at the hour of prayer; and by loud and boisterous shouting, 
 throwing stones at the door, and breaking the windows, 
 attempted to daunt the humble worshippers, and destroy the 
 infant-cause of the Redeemer. In this they were mistaken; 
 for the more they opposed the more mightily grew the word 
 of God and prevailed. Tidings of these wicked proceedings 
 soon reached the ears of the Lieutenant-Governor : the perse- 
 cutors were silenced, peace restored, and from that time to 
 the present no attempt at open opposition has ever been made 
 in Hobart-Town. 
 
 In 1821 the first Class was formed. One of the members 
 drew up a few rules for their guidance. The original document 
 is a great curiosity, but breathing a spirit of true piety, and 
 evincing a strong desire to have all things done decently and 
 in order. 
 
 In the meantime the Secretaries of the Parent Society were 
 making arrangements for sending a regularly ordained Minister 
 to take the oversight of the little flock; and some time in the 
 year 1821, the Rev. W. Horton arrived to occupy the Station 
 as its first Missionary. The members received him with open 
 arms and grateful hearts. The weather-board building used 
 as a chapel being too small, was enlarged, and the congregation 
 still increasing, it was determined to attempt the erection of a 
 chapel A piece of land was presented by David Lord, Esq., 
 and the building commenced in 1822. Numerous difficulties 
 however arose, long delays from various causes took place, and 
 it was not until the 12th of February, 1826, that the edifice was 
 ready for consecration to the service of Jehovah. When the 
 people took possession of their new and beautiful house, for 
 such it then appeared to them, their hearts were filled with 
 joy, and their lips with praise. The devoted man who had first 
 preached the glorious Gospel in the streets, on the steps of the 
 wooden Court-House, having now returned from New South 
 Wales, to become the Pastor of the people he had been so anxious 
 to gather, preached the first sermon in the Melville-street Chapel, 
 and for the five following years continued to exercise an edify-
 
 THE SOUTHERN WOULD. 391 
 
 ing ministry within its walls. Since then the cause, up to a 
 very recent period, has been in a very vigorous and prosperous 
 state. From the small beginnings already mentioned it con- 
 tinued to increase and extend, until it has embraced nearly 
 every town and village on the island. " Indeed," says the Rev. 
 J. A. Manton, " I do not know one place which has not been 
 visited; and in by far the greater number churches have been 
 formed, congregations collected, and chapels built. But the 
 discovery of gold in the neighbouring colonies has seriously 
 retarded our progress; great numbers of our members and 
 many of our most efficient office-bearers having left for those 
 colonies. Notwithstanding, we still regard our state as en- 
 couraging, as some of our people are returning to us in improved 
 circumstances, and our church-members throughout the island 
 are all anxious to exert themselves to the utmost to help for- 
 ward the work of the Lord, and are giving themselves to 
 earnest prayer for an outpouring of the Holy Spirit." 
 
 For some years past the Wesleyan Missionary Society had 
 received 500 per annum from the Colonial Government, given 
 for the purpose of sustaining Missionaries stationed in the 
 interior of the island. This year the amount has been raised 
 to 700, to be continued as long as the necessaries of life 
 remain at their present enormously high prices. The Local 
 Government has not, under any circumstances, exerted the 
 least control over us in reference to the grant thus made. All 
 that has been required is, a Certificate that the sum has been 
 expended in the colony. 
 
 We have 23 chapels in the island, most of them substantially 
 built of stone or brick, and I believe they are nearly all settled 
 according to the Connexional Model Deed; and there is not a 
 farthing of debt upon any of them. We also have Mission-Houses 
 in Hobart-Town, Launceston, Campbell-Town, and Longford. 
 
 The effect of the Wesleyan Missions to Van Diemen's Land 
 upon the convict part of the population has been very bene- 
 ficial. Thousands of such persons have heard our Missionaries. 
 Many have been deeply convinced of sin, and soundly converted 
 to God, who have maintained their integrity through life, and
 
 392 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 have died well. Some others, however, through their awful 
 backslidings, have occasioned deep sorrow, and done serious 
 mischief to the cause of God. 
 
 The Aborigines of the colony, I am sorry to say, are likely 
 soon to be extinct. For some years they have been collected 
 together in a settlement on the southern coast of the island. 
 They are placed under the care of a medical gentleman, who 
 has the sole care of them. Every attention is paid to their 
 personal comfort, and as far as they are capable of instruction, 
 or are willing to receive it, they are taught. At no period were 
 they very numerous, at least since the island has been known, 
 and at present the number is greatly reduced. " I think," says 
 Mr. Manton, " the present number does not exceed thirty. The 
 number of deaths over those of births is so great that a few 
 years must effect their extermination." 
 
 IQth. I reached Melbourne, and began the District Meeting. 
 All our Ministers stationed in Victoria, with but one exception, 
 were present; also the Rev. John Eggleston from Sydney. I 
 stated the object of my deputation, furnishing such explana- 
 tions as were required ; and the Ministers gave their hearty 
 concurrence to the proposed Ecclesiastical arrangements in- 
 tended to be introduced into Australia. 
 
 20th. I met the Circuit Stewards from different parts of 
 Victoria, and the lay-members of Committees. The large 
 attendance proved the interest felt in my mission. I stated 
 its special object, expressed my willingness to communicate 
 any information in my power as to the proposed Australian 
 Connexion, and, after a very lengthy and intensely interesting 
 conversation on the subject, they unanimously adopted reso- 
 lutions expressive of their hearty approval of the measure, and 
 their willingness to co-operate in rendering it successful 
 
 22d. /Sunday. In the morning I preached at Collingwood, 
 and in the evening at North Melbourne. Both chapels were 
 crowded. The former was being enlarged, and will be a 
 spacious and commodious place of worship when finished; the 
 latter has been recently built, and is a neat structure, beautiful 
 for situation.
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 393 
 
 23d Proceeded with the District Meeting, and felt much 
 pleased with the spirit, labours, and success of my brethren. 
 Though placed in trying circumstances, they had all, by the 
 grace of God, been found faithful. 
 
 25th. Having accomplished my mission to the Southern 
 Hemisphere, this evening a tea-meeting was held in connection 
 with Collins-street Chapel, that the friends might have an 
 opportunity of taking their leave of me. After I had given an 
 account of my visit to the Polynesian Islands, a valedictory 
 Address was presented, expressive of much kindly feeling and 
 high Christian principle. The chapel was full, and their interest 
 in relation to the Missionary cause I have seldom seen equalled, 
 perhaps never surpassed. When about eight months previously 
 I arrived in Melbourne, the fine, generous, constitutional, and 
 noble spirit evinced in the reception with which I was favoured 
 had greatly aided in the successful prosecution of my mission 
 in these colonies, and produced in our churches at home a very 
 beneficial impression. During my sojourn in the Southern 
 Hemisphere I had travelled much, wondered much, and enjoyed 
 much. In every community I had met with distinguished 
 kindness, and in every place my mission had been regarded 
 with favour, and indeed crowned with success. I thought it 
 but right to acknowledge this, and to ascribe the glory to Him 
 who had done so much for me. 
 
 26tk. I took a review of the work of God in Victoria, as 
 connected with the Wesleyan Body, and felt greatly encouraged. 
 The beginning of the work may be dated from April 26th, 
 1836, on which day the Rev. Joseph Orton preached the first 
 sermon ever delivered in this land to a mixed company of 
 Europeans and natives. It would appear that some appre- 
 hensions were entertained lest the service should be interrupted 
 by the restlessness and loquaciousness of the untutored savages 
 who formed the greater part of the congregation; but during 
 the whole time they were remarkably quiet and attentive, and 
 although they could not comprehend the nature of the engage- 
 ment, they are represented as having been struck with silent 
 admiration, especially during the singing. There were then
 
 394 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 not more than three houses and three or four sod-huts in 
 Melbourne. Towards the end of the same year, a few persons 
 arrived from Van Diemen's Land, who established meetings for 
 Christian communion and prayer, which were held in a " wattle 
 and dab" hut. In April, 1839, the Rev. Messrs. Hurst and 
 Tuckfield, who had been appointed by the Wesleyan Missionary 
 Committee in London to the Aboriginal Mission in Bunting- 
 Dale, arrived in the colony, and engaged to visit Melbourne as 
 frequently as their other engagements would permit, till some 
 more satisfactory and permanent arrangement could be 
 made. Early in the same year the Society received efficient 
 assistance by the arrival of several excellent persons from 
 England, Messrs. Parker and Dredge, and others who were 
 sent from home as the protectors of the Aborigines. At that 
 time some of the services, by the kindness of the Rev. James 
 Forbes and the members of his church, were conducted in the 
 Presbyterian place of worship. I am not able to state pre- 
 cisely when the first Wesleyan Chapel was built in Melbourne ; 
 but I have heard it described as a neat small building, in 
 Swanston-street. On the 14th of May, 1840, the foundation- 
 stone of the present chapel in. Collins-street was laid. It was 
 opened for public worship on the 24th of June, 1841, and in 
 1850 was enlarged to nearly twice its original size. It was 
 then, and for a long time afterwards, the largest Protestant 
 place of worship in the colony. The first Quarterly Meeting 
 of the Circuit was held at the Mission-House, Melbourne, on 
 Friday, January 28th, 1841. Early the same year the Rev. S. 
 Wilkinson was appointed to the charge of the Circuit, and 
 relieved the Rev. J. Orton, who had temporary charge for a few 
 months, previously to his departure for England. 
 
 Since that period the cause has advanced, and, lately, with 
 much rapidity. Four years ago we had but one chapel in 
 Melbourne, then in the course of enlargement; one at Geelong; 
 and seven other small erections in different parts of the colony. 
 We had also one Mission-House, and three Ministers. The 
 estimated value of the whole Mission property was between 
 6,000 and 7,000, and there were debts upon it amount-
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 395 
 
 ing to 1,900. " At present," says the Rev. W. Butters, 
 " we have 22 chapels and 37 other preaching-places, some 
 of which are used as schoolrooms, and others are temporary 
 erections on the gold-fields. There are also 7 Mission-Houses. 
 The cost of these erections at the present time would be about 
 .52,000. There are also several pieces of land, on which it is 
 intended to erect, with all possible speed, Chapels and Mission- 
 Houses. We have 9 Ministers, and expect 8 more in a few 
 days.'"" Our present number of church members is 1,620; 
 Scholars, 2,821; members of our congregations, 15,400. The 
 entire debt on our Mission property, chiefly on our houses, is 
 about 2,000, and that will shortly he liquidated. ^Our state, 
 financially, is good; and our prospects as to the future, as 
 respects progress and spirituality, are encouraging." 
 
 In the course of the year the sum of 2,000 has been 
 expended by the Wesleyan Body in the establishment and 
 maintenance of schools; and arrangements are in progress to 
 prosecute the work of education with increased energy, and on 
 a greatly enlarged scale. Very efficient aid in this department 
 has been rendered by the Colonial Government, which from the 
 beginning has appreciated the labours and success of our 
 Mission in the colony. 
 
 Other churches in Victoria, according to an official state- 
 ment, have the following number of Ministers in " Melbourne 
 and its environs:" 
 
 Church of England 14 
 
 Baptists 5 
 
 Independents 4 
 
 United Presbyterians 3 
 
 Primitive Methodists 1 
 
 Unitarians . . 1 
 
 Roman Catholics 10 
 
 Free Church 4 
 
 Presbyterians 3 
 
 Wesleyan Association 1 
 
 Calvinistic Methodists 1 
 
 Jews 1 
 
 On the same ground the Wesleyan church will have eleven 
 Ministers on the arrival of those who are daily expected. 
 
 27^. I visited the Wesleyan Immigrants' Home, and found 
 it in a state of efficiency, and fully meeting the expectation of 
 its worthy projectors. During the first year of its existence 
 
 These have since arrived, and others are about to be sent.
 
 396 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 it had accommodated about 2,000 persons from various parts 
 of the world, and belonging to different religious communi- 
 ties. Amongst the inmates of the Institution there had been 
 962 Wesleyans, 569 members of the English Church, 148 
 Independents, 104 Presbyterians, 103 Baptists, 44 Free 
 Church of Scotland, 18 Lutherans, 19 Roman Catholics, 5 
 Jews, 4 Society of Friends, and 2 Moravians. Mr. Butters 
 had just been appointed chaplain, to live on the premises; and 
 arrangements made for visiting as far as possible the immigrant 
 vessels arriving in the Bay, that any Wesleyans on board might 
 receive a hearty welcome, and, if so disposed, be conducted to 
 the home provided for them. 
 
 I received from my friend the Rev. Isaac Harding the fol- 
 lowing communication in reply to certain questions I had 
 proposed to him: 
 
 " 1. I am of opinion that the Wesleyan Immigrants' 
 Home has fully met the expectations of those truly Christian 
 men who had the honour of giving it existence, and accom- 
 plished entirely the object of its erection. This Institution 
 has afforded shelter to upwards of two thousand persons 
 from all parts of the world; and not shelter only, but also 
 protection from the dangers of the public-houses and taverns 
 of this corrupt city. It has also furnished the means of grace 
 to numerous persons who had been long deprived of the word 
 of life, and at the same time afforded most valuable counsel 
 and aid to many who were in circumstances to require them. 
 
 " 2. The impression I have received respecting the climate 
 of this colony is by no means favourable, both the cold and 
 heat are much more severe and trying than I had been led 
 to expect by the various writers on Australia I had consulted 
 before my departure from England. In winter there is a 
 large proportion of wet and cold weather, which, with the 
 abundance of mud occasioned by the rain, detracts very much 
 from the comfort of life in that season of the year. The 
 summer is alternately hot and cold, and about once a- week 
 a strong hot wind will blow all day from the north, and 
 in the evening a cold one equally strong from the west or
 
 THE SOUTHERN WOBLD. 397 
 
 south. These hot winds, with the clouds of dust they raise, 
 constitute one of the severest climatic trials of human strength 
 and patience that can be found in any part of the world, 
 and the cold wind and occasional rain which follow in the 
 evening are looked for with the anxious desire with which the 
 desert travellers look for water. At the same time, there are 
 many days during both seasons of the year in which the most 
 glowing descriptions of writers on the Australian climate are 
 fully verified. 
 
 " It is necessary, however, to state that I have only been 
 one year in the country, and have been almost entirely con- 
 fined to Melbourne and its vicinity, and that the old residents 
 not only say that this is the most disagreeable part of the 
 colony, but that the present summer is the worst they have 
 known. 
 
 " 3. The general feeling of newly arrived immigrants re- 
 specting the country and their prospects is that of disappoint- 
 ment. The climate especially excites their dislike. But most 
 of them soon get into the way of accumulating money much 
 faster than they could at home, and they are in this way 
 reconciled to the country. I have also found that many of 
 those who have lived a few years in the colony speak highly 
 of it, and only a few of these would prefer the English climate to 
 the Australian. The domestic discomfort, however, consequent 
 on the difficulty in obtaining good servants, and keeping them 
 for any length of time, is so great that not a few of those who 
 have made a fortune return to England in pursuit of a com- 
 fortable home. 
 
 " 4. I have met with many cases of great distress among the 
 immigrants; and have been enabled, by the liberality of friends 
 and through the Immigrants' Aid Society, to relieve them to the 
 extent of about 200, during the past eight months. These, 
 however,have not generally been members of our Society, as most 
 of them who come here have been provident enough to provide 
 a little for their sustenance on their arrival in this country. 
 
 " One man, a member of the Established Church, had left a 
 good business, and a large and well-furnished house in England ;
 
 398 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 and although his neighbours at home thought he had taken 
 with him the means of going into business in Australia, yet he 
 landed here with his wife and three little children, with less 
 than 5. This was soon exhausted. He began to work, but 
 it was too hard for him. He then tried to do the rough 
 painting on the outside of a house. The ladder on which he 
 stood gave way. He fell and broke his right arm. His wife 
 was now taken seriously ill, and the entire charge of the 
 children and the sick wife devolved upon him night and day. 
 His arm was first badly set, and then so neglected that it will 
 never be straight or strong again. 
 
 " The wife was confined with a fourth child, and, after suf- 
 fering a few days from dysentery and defective nursing, she 
 died. A few days after, the infant followed the mother ; 
 while the father was left with two of his children very ill, and 
 his arm almost useless. This was a family which, until they 
 left their native shores, never knew privation, nor suffered the 
 want of any comfort. Many other cases equally distressing 
 have come under my observation." 
 
 28th. To-day I ascertained the principal facts connected 
 with the Wesleyan Mission to the Aborigines, established at 
 Bunting-Dale, in the colony of Victoria. It appears that about 
 twenty years ago, a few gentlemen amongst whom was Dr. 
 Thomson, now M.L.C. of Victoria were assembled in a social 
 evening party at the house of a friend in Van Diemen's Land, 
 when the subject of forming a station for sheep at Port Phillip 
 was mentioned and discussed. The accounts which had been 
 published by Messrs. Hume and Ho veil, and by Major (now Sir 
 Thomas) Mitchell, who had previously visited Port Phillip over- 
 land from Sydney, had produced a most favourable impression 
 in regard to the quality of the land, and the salubrity of the 
 climate, and it was determined forthwith to form a Com- 
 pany for the purpose of carrying on extensive sheep-farming. 
 Operations were commenced at once, and sheep in considerable 
 quantities were exported from Van Diemen's Land both by the 
 Company and by private individuals; and thus was commenced 
 the now nourishing colony of Victoria.
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 399 
 
 The late Rev. Joseph Orion, Chairman of the Van Diemen's 
 Land District, having received instructions from the Wesleyan 
 Missionary Society to obtain all possible information as to the 
 practicability of establishing a Mission to the Aborigines, and 
 having received intimation that a favourable opening presented 
 itself in the vicinity of Port Phillip, paid a visit to the newly- 
 formed settlement in April and May, 1836, and the result of 
 his observations was communicated to the Committee in the 
 following August; and at the Conference of 1837, the Rev. 
 Messrs. Hurst and Tuckfield were appointed to commence the 
 Mission. On the 9th of Nov mber, 1837, they, with their wives, 
 sailed for Van Diemen's Land, and arrived in Hobart-Town on 
 the 17th of March following. Mr. Hurst, in consequence of 
 ill-health, was detained in Van Diemen's Land for nearly twelve 
 months, but in the meantime Mr. Tuckfield had proceeded to 
 Port Phillip, taken several journeys into the country, held 
 intercourse with many tribes of the natives, and commenced a 
 Dictionary of their language. He had visited the locality 
 afterwards named Bunting-Dale, and thought highly of it as a 
 site for the Mission, both on account of the quality of the land 
 and its central position in regard to three or four tribes; but 
 before finally adopting that locality it was deemed desirable 
 to obtain farther information; and for this purpose Mr. Hurst, 
 who was now at Port Phillip, and Mr. Tuckfield, travelled 
 over the surrounding country, making every inquiry in their 
 power both of the natives and Europeans, and in one of these 
 journeys they narrowly escaped an untimely and painful death. 
 
 Dr. Thomson, who evinced a lively interest in the Mission, 
 was desirous of finding a suitable run for his increasing stock, 
 and projected a journey from Geelong to Portland-Bay by the 
 coast ; and as the Missionaries were wishful to ascertain what 
 natives were living in that direction, they agreed to combine 
 their objects, being of opinion that they could assist each other; 
 and that by forming a larger party they would travel both 
 more comfortably and more safely. On the 21st of March, 1839, 
 the party, consisting of Dr. Thomson, Norman M'Leod, Esq., 
 the Missionaries, and a young man whom they had engaged to
 
 400 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 assist in the temporal department of the Mission, started on 
 their journey with six horses, one of which was laden with 
 provisions, &c. For a few days they travelled very pleasantly 
 and made good progress, but soon found that the mountains 
 stretched themselves so near to the sea as to render travelling 
 by the coast very difficult, if not impossible. They however 
 proceeded on their way, sometimes scaling the mountains 
 through the dense " scrub," cutting their way with tomahawks, 
 sometimes scrambling over rocks, and at other times wading in 
 the sea, until they got near Cape Otway, when their horses' 
 feet became so sore, and their legs so cut with the edges of the 
 rock, that to continue their journey by the coast was impossible. 
 After resting a day, they determined to cross the mountains, 
 and, if possible, reach the open country above Lake Calac, and 
 so proceed by another route to Portland-Bay. On Good-Friday 
 morning they climbed the sides of the mountain, and attempted 
 to find a path from the difficulties with which they were beset, 
 but without success. Tier after tier of mountains, entirely 
 denuded of grass, and covered only with fern and the most 
 gigantic trees, rose up before them, and, presenting their 
 almost perpendicular sides to the travellers, defied them to 
 proceed. And, as though the earth and the sky had combined 
 in one dire conspiracy against them, the clouds poured out 
 their contents with true Australian profusion. The narrow 
 valleys soon became rivers, and travelling was not only exces- 
 sively fatiguing, but dangerous. During the night Mr. M'Leod's 
 horse died; and the following morning, as the rain continued, 
 and as their provisions were getting short, they decided upon 
 retracing their steps to the coast: but travelling being even 
 more difficult than on the previous day, they were necessitated 
 to spend another night in the mountains. The next morning, 
 though Easter Sunday, they resolved, after consultation and 
 prayer, upon endeavouring to reach the coast, fearing that if 
 they did not, their horses would die, they being so greatly 
 exhausted, and without one particle of food. They had not, 
 however, gone far, when Mr. Hurst's horse fell down; and all 
 efforts to raise him being in vain, it was arranged for Mr.
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 401 
 
 Hurst to remain until the party should reach the coast, and 
 send one of the horses for him. After a considerable time Mr. 
 Tuckfield returned, but before they could reach the rest of the 
 party night overtook them, and a fearful night it was. The 
 rain continued to pour down in torrents, the darkness was 
 intense, and the cold exceedingly severe ; so that after wander- 
 ing about for some time, without even a star to guide them, 
 they deemed it most prudent to halt for the night at the foot 
 of an immense tree, fully calculating that, although they had 
 nothing to eat, they should be able to kindle a fire, and thus 
 protect themselves from the biting cold; but their matches had 
 become so damp that only one of them would ignite, and that 
 was immediately extinguished by the wind and rain. " After 
 committing ourselves, our wives, and x>ur work," says Mr. Hurst, 
 " to the care of our heavenly Father, and with the view of 
 obtaining as much warmth as possible, we wrapped our wet 
 blankets around us, and sat and lay as near together as possible, 
 doubting whether we should survive the night. But though 
 our outward man was miserable in the extreme, our souls had 
 rest and peace. Our assurance of the Divine favour was clear, 
 and our hope of heaven bright and exhilarating. We did not 
 regret having left friends and home, to' preach among the 
 Gentiles the unsearchable riches of Christ, and we were content 
 to go at once to our reward in glory, if such should be the will 
 of our heavenly Father. But although sleep forsook us, the 
 morning came after long delay, and as soon as daylight appeared 
 we set out to find our friends, and happily succeeded in doing 
 so. The walking relaxed our stiffened limbs, and caused our 
 youthful blood to warm, so that we did not experience any 
 lasting inconvenience from the wet and cold and hunger of 
 that never-to-be-forgotten night. Having rested for a day on 
 the beach, we put our horses into a small grassy nook to 
 recruit their strength, and started for home on foot, which we 
 reached after having been absent sixteen days on our fruitless 
 expedition." 
 
 After another journey to the neighbourhood of the Grampian 
 Hills, they decided on locating themselves at Bunting-Pale.
 
 402 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 They now commenced their work in good earnest. Their plan 
 was, for one of them alternately to travel with the natives in 
 their wanderings, or from tribe to tribe, and the other to remain 
 in charge of the Station, and perform the duties there. At first 
 the prospects of the Missions were cheering, but subsequently 
 the expectations of the Missionaries were disappointed, and 
 several years of labour apparently expended in vain. The 
 design of the Missionaries was, to induce as many of the natives 
 as possible to settle on the land reserved for their use by 
 Government, 10 miles square, or 100 square miles, in order 
 that they might educate the young, and teach the adults 
 religion and agriculture. For this purpose, the school was 
 regularly attended to, the Missionaries' wives taking their full 
 share of the duties, and teaching the girls the art of sewing. 
 At first Divine service was conducted morning and evening in 
 English, and subsequently the natives were addressed in their 
 own tongue. Cultivation-paddocks were formed, and the men 
 were taught to grow a part of their own food. Notwithstanding 
 their undisciplined state, the children made great progress in 
 reading; some of the girls were tolerably expert with their 
 needles; the young men soon learned to drive bullocks, and 
 perform other manual labours; Divine light and truth were im- 
 parted, and the minds of several were undoubtedly so impressed 
 with a sense of their sinful ness in the sight of God, as to be 
 led earnestly to inquire what they must do to be saved. But, 
 notwithstanding these hopeful indications of success, the Mission 
 as to its main design failed. And whence did the failure arise? 
 This question merits serious consideration. It did not arise 
 from any deficiencies on the part of the agents employed. 
 Messrs. Hurst and Tuckfield were most devoted, laborious, and 
 enterprising men, well adapted to the duties of the Mission, 
 physically, intellectually, and spiritually. Nor did the failure 
 arise from any incapacity in- the natives to receive and 
 profit by evangelical teaching. The progress of the children 
 in reading, &c., was fully equal to that of which European 
 children are capable; and the instances of a religious concern 
 evinced by the youths already referred to, together with other
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 403 
 
 similar instances occurring amongst the natives in other 
 localities, are sufficient to show that when the Australian savage 
 is placed in circumstances favourable to the cultivation and 
 development of the religious sentiment and principle, he is 
 as capable thereof as any other member of the great human 
 family. Where then shall we look for the cause of failure ? 
 Undoubtedly to colonization. The deep mental and moral 
 degradation of the natives no doubt presented formidable 
 obstacles to their immediate reception of the pure and 
 elevating truths of Christianity; but the past history of 
 Christian Missions, the declarations of inspired truth, and the 
 incipient success attending the labours of the Missionaries at 
 Bunting-Dale, prove that if the Mission had not been met 
 at every stage of its progress by the baneful influences of 
 colonization, it would have succeeded to the satisfaction of its 
 most ardent friends. But when from time to time the hopes 
 of the Missionaries were raised, and they expected soon to put 
 forth their hands and gather in the fruits of their anxieties, 
 and prayers, and toils, the withering blight of the white man's 
 influence and example spread desolation and death over the 
 fair prospect. When the wandering habits of the natives began 
 to give way, and they gathered around in considerable numbers, 
 beginning to take an interest in cultivating the soil, and 
 building for themselves suitable habitations, the white man 
 allowed motives most base to lead him to a course of conduct 
 the most dishonourable, in order to draw them away from the 
 station and from the influence of the Missionaries. No one 
 who has read the statements of Christian Missionaries of various 
 Denominations, as to the injurious effects which intercourse with 
 depraved Europeans has had upon the mind of the Heathen, or 
 who is acquainted with what is now going on in some parts 
 of New Zealand, notwithstanding the advancement which 
 was made by the natives in religion and civilization before 
 that land was colonized, will be astonished at the views here 
 expressed. 
 
 " Let me show," says Mr. Hurst, " how colonization counter- 
 acted our labours, and prevented our success. First, I would
 
 404 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 mention the total neglect of religious duties by which most of 
 the Europeans, especially the shepherds and hut-keepers, were 
 characterized, and which was well calculated to induce the 
 natives to undervalue and disregard the instructions we gave 
 to them. For although I am happy to say there were a few 
 delightful exceptions, yet truth compels me to state, that in 
 general the white men were utterly negligent of their spiritual 
 interests. Then again, there were a few who did not disdain 
 to prejudice the natives against us personally, and against the 
 objects of our Mission and the doctrines we taught, that they 
 might the more easily secure their own ends. In addition to 
 which, efforts were constantly made to induce the young men 
 who were capable of performing manual labour to leave us and 
 attach themselves to the stations of the settlers. Amongst the 
 lower class chiefly, although I am sorry to be obliged to say 
 not exclusively, an appalling amount of vice and wickedness 
 prevailed. Occasional fits of drunkenness were indulged in, 
 profane swearing was common, the desecration of the Sabbath 
 was constant, and the prostitution of the native women and 
 girls was literally universal. Can it then be matter of surprise 
 if with these agencies constantly at work against us, and 
 without intermission sending their direct and withering influ- 
 ence upon the naturally unpropitious field we were endeavour- 
 ing to cultivate, we all but laboured in vain, and spent our 
 strength for nought. But these things, distressing though 
 they were, would not have disheartened us, had they not been 
 connected with another circumstance, more appalling than 
 they; and that was, the rapid diminution of the Aboriginal 
 population. Within three years from the commencement of 
 the Mission, the three tribes with which we were more im- 
 mediately connected had decreased fully one-half, and the 
 progress of annihilation was still going on with fearful rapidity. 
 Some fell before the musket's deadly aim, a few died in the 
 course of nature, and a few were killed clandestinely by their 
 countrymen, or fell in war; but fatal disease, introduced by 
 licentious Europeans, committed the most fearful ravages, and 
 brought multitudes to a premature grave. Added to this, was
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 405 
 
 the effectual interference with the natural source of supply and 
 increase. Within the limits of the three tribes already men- 
 tioned, there were only two really Aboriginal children born 
 after our arrival at Port Phillip. It is true there were many 
 children born, but they were ' half caste,' and were invariably 
 destroyed. And so early as 1840, a little more than a year 
 subsequent to my arrival in the colony, in my report to the 
 Colonial Government, and after speaking of the decrease of the 
 native tribes and its causes, I stated, ' Upon a review of the 
 whole we are decidedly of opinion, that unless prompt and 
 decided measures are taken to preserve these degraded and 
 deeply injured tribes, in a few years they will be entirely 
 extinct.' These are the causes of the almost total failure of 
 our Mission. I say almost total failure, as I cannot admit that 
 our labours were altogether in vain. As far as the main object 
 of our labour was concerned, I am ready to allow that we were 
 not successful; and yet, so far as our influence over, and inter- 
 course with the natives, tended by the Divine blessing to 
 promote their physical and social welfare, and frequently pre- 
 vented collision both amongst themselves and Europeans, we 
 have the satisfaction of knowing that some good resulted from 
 our toil ; and assuredly our record is on high, and our witness 
 is with God." 
 
 There is a school at Loddon, in the same colony, supported 
 by the Government for the instruction of the natives, which 
 is conducted by Mr. Carvosso, the son of the Rev. B. 
 Carvosso. Having made some inquiries respecting the 
 Aborigines, that gentleman kindly furnished me with the 
 annexed replies. 
 
 " 1. What opinion have you formed of the mental capacity 
 of the Aboriginal inhabitants of Australia 1 ?" 
 
 " Their mental capacity is doubtless of a lower order than 
 usual. This is obvious from their extreme inaptness to appre- 
 hend any truth or principle when brought before their notice 
 for the first time ; from the marked indifference they evince 
 for subjects of the most interesting character; and from the 
 general slow progress they make in their studies. The intellect
 
 406 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 of the adult is for the most part exceedingly dull, and in many 
 instances seems quite impervious to light. I am nevertheless 
 of opinion that the standard of the Aboriginal mind is higher 
 than that at which it is generally rated. Deeply degraded as 
 is their natural condition, I still consider their character 
 capable of considerable elevation. Sanguine expectations must 
 not be cherished. Success similar to those rich harvests which 
 have been reaped almost universally, must not be looked for 
 here; but earnest, patient, persevering, and prayerful effort 
 would, I am sure, be attended with encouraging and even 
 satisfactory results." 
 
 " 2. What number have you under instruction? And what 
 are the acquirements of your pupils?" 
 
 " The number under instruction, in connection with the 
 Loddon Aboriginal Institution is about twenty. They are 
 chiefly boys of ten or twelve years of age. Their present 
 acquirements are but of a limited description, the instructions 
 as yet given them being for the most part elementary and 
 preliminary. "When I first became connected with the school 
 some eighteen months ago, I found it in a most enfeebled 
 condition. It included but five or six children, and upon those 
 scarcely any attention had been bestowed. In the prosecution 
 of my interesting work I have had but few facilities, and but 
 little encouragement from others, and have had to grapple with 
 numerous difficulties. The general advancement, however, 
 made by those committed to my care has been to me satis- 
 factory, and I am inclined to think fully commensurate with 
 the labour I have been enabled to bestow on them. I have 
 some boys who are sharp and intelligent, and these can read 
 and write well, and possess some slight knowledge of Arithmetic. 
 I am certain, however, that their advancement intellectually, 
 socially, and morally, would have been more apparent had there 
 been such periodical inspection, and such general aid afforded, 
 as the Government I feel persuaded would be willing to give." 
 
 " 3. Do the youths you instruct generally return to their 
 former habits on leaving your Institution f ' 
 
 " The school has not been sufficiently long in existence to
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 407 
 
 enable me to say what will be the subsequent career of those 
 educated in it. The boys who were on the establishment 
 when I first came are still with me. When they arrive at a 
 suitable age, it will be our effort to localize them on the station, 
 by giving them land for cultivation ; and, generally speaking, I 
 think we shall succeed. There are already some young men 
 on the station who have farms under cultivation, and of these, 
 both socially and morally, I cannot speak too highly." 
 
 " 4. What are the religious views of those Aborigines with 
 whom you have had intercourse?" 
 
 " The natives, both here and elsewhere, with whom I have 
 come in contact, generally possess some faint gleams of religious 
 light. So far as the natives of this tribe are concerned, this 
 religious knowledge is mainly attributable to the instruction 
 they received from Mr. Parker, during the existence of the 
 Protectorate; and I am inclined to believe that this acquaint- 
 ance with scriptural truth, though very limited, exerts a 
 favourable influence on their character. But the religious 
 knowledge of those natives I speak now of adults, who for the 
 most part usually reside on this station is of a more extensive 
 kind, and some of them, I have every reason to believe, duly 
 improve the spiritual light they have received." 
 
 "5. Are the natives diminishing in number? If so, how is 
 that to be accounted for?" 
 
 " The natives of this colony, who a short time since were 
 computed at 4,000, are doubtless rapidly diminishing in num- 
 ber. The principal causes of this I deem to be the three 
 following : First. The . introduction of European vices, 
 especially that of drunkenness, to which the natives are 
 becoming increasingly addicted. Secondly. The slight regard 
 they now pay to their health in the way of clothing. Once there 
 was uniformity in this respect; now there is none. On one day 
 they are clothed in the garb of whites; the next they may 
 have on a slight under-garment, with a blanket thrown loosely 
 over them; and, on the following day be seen in a state of 
 complete nudity. Such a practice alone, in this variable climate, 
 would of course tend to induce many diseases which would
 
 408 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 soon became fatal. Thirdly. Their indifference about marriage. 
 This is a striking feature, and although polygamy is tolerated 
 among them, it is not frequent; and celibacy is far more 
 common. We have many young men on our station, some of 
 whom I have again and again urged to marry for their own 
 comfort; but they generally say in reply, that there are no 
 suitable females for them to take as wives. This is correct, 
 females being more deeply degraded, less attention having been 
 paid to them than to the males. Formerly their frequent wars 
 threatened their speedy extermination; but this belligerent 
 spirit is now but seldom developed." 
 
 "6. Be kind enough to mention anything else about the 
 natives, not contemplated by the above questions." 
 
 " The natives of this colony are said to be addicted to theft. 
 I have had ample opportunity of judging on this point, and 
 my experience would lead me to decide on the contrary. I 
 have remained for days alone in the bush amongst scores of 
 natives quite strangers to me, and although I have had at the 
 time abundance of flour, tea, tobacco, blankets, &c., I am not 
 aware of the least effort having been made to steal a single 
 article. The children, too, under my care, pilfer less than white 
 children would do; and I have seldom or never known a boy 
 to tell me a wilful untruth. The natives are partial to singing, 
 and possess a good ear for it. The boys at school sing well, and 
 acquire the knowledge of a tune with great facility. The whites 
 in this locality are continually seeking to seduce the females, 
 and are but too successful, so that the half-caste population is 
 increasing much faster than the natives. On this protected 
 station, however, considerable good has been effected, there 
 being several natives here, of whose safety, in case of death, 
 I should entertain but little doubt." 
 
 29th. Sunday. Mr. Boyce having arrived from Sydney, on 
 his way to South Australia, preached this evening in Collins- 
 street ChapeL A very faithful sermon.
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 409 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 DEPARTURE from Melbourne Arrival at Adelaide Wesleyan church 
 in that colony Unhappy death of a passenger Arrival at King George's 
 Sound Review of the work in Australasia New Ecclesiastical arrange- 
 ment Character of Missionaries Departure for Ceylon Unfortunate 
 letter Tropical sunset Arrival at Point- de-Galle Cinnamon gardens 
 Budhist temple Interview with priests Conversations with Native 
 Christians Mission-schools Missionaries' challenge to the devil- 
 priests. 
 
 HAVING engaged a passage in the " Madras" for England, I 
 left Melbourne on January the 30th, at 12 o'clock. Many 
 esteemed friends accompanied me to the ship, amongst whom 
 were several of my fellow-passengers by the " Adelaide." The 
 Rev. William Butters was also there, whose truly honest and 
 disinterested character had won my confidence and esteem; 
 and whose genuine kindness, and that of his interesting family, 
 I can never forget. At 2 o'clock we weighed anchor ; friends 
 shook hands and parted; the "Madras" steamed away with great 
 rapidity ; and the wonderful city of Melbourne soon faded from 
 our view. Should my eyes never again be fixed upon its busy 
 marts, nor my feet stand within the gates of its hallowed 
 temples, for my brethren and companions' sakes, I will ever 
 say, Peace be within thee. 
 
 February 2d. Arrived early this morning at Adelaide. The 
 Rev. D. J. Draper came on board, requesting that I would take 
 proper steps to send from England, as soon as possible, two 
 additional Ministers for South Australia, the people paying, as 
 in the other colonies, the expenses of outfit and passage. 
 
 Wesleyan Methodism in this colony has advanced with con- 
 siderable rapidity. Amongst the first settlers that arrived were 
 some Wesleyans, who very soon organized a church after the 
 model of that with which they had been connected in their 
 
 T
 
 410 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 fatherland. Before the formal foundation of this colony by 
 Governor Hindmarsh, the parties specified were accustomed to 
 meet together for religious conversation and prayer. Two 
 worthy men, still associated with the Wesleyan church in 
 South Australia, Messrs. East and Boots, were fellow-labourers 
 in Kangaroo Island, and in a carpenter's shop at Kingscoate 
 Divine service was performed as early as the close of 1836. 
 
 In a little memorandum-book, the following interesting entry 
 is found, which casts light upon the early eiforts of Methodism 
 in South Australia: 
 
 " 15th May, 1837. At a meeting, held this night, at the 
 dwelling-house of E. Stephens, Esq., (Adelaide,) for the purpose 
 of establishing a religious Society, to be called the Wesleyan 
 Methodist Society, the following persons gave in their names 
 as desirous of becoming members." After this comes a list of 
 fifteen members. This was the first organized Christian Body 
 in South Australia. The first Class-meeting was held by Mr. 
 Abbott, on the 15th of May, in a rude hut on the banks of the 
 Torrens. The first sermon was preached in the open air; but 
 subsequently a reed-hut was obtained as a place of worship, 
 and then the kitchen of Mr. E. Stephens. The infant cause 
 greatly prospered, and the building of a commodious chapel was 
 determined upon. This was commenced, and in March, 1838, 
 the Hindley-street Chapel was opened. There were at this 
 period 6 Local-preachers, 7 Class-leaders, about 50 members, 
 and 100 Sabbath-school children. The want of a shepherd 
 was now greatly felt by the little flock. As individuals, they 
 had prayed for the coming of a Pastor; but now they set apart 
 seasons for special prayer, that the Great Shepherd would 
 compassionate their case, and send some one to minister unto 
 them. Their prayers were heard. An accident, as some would 
 call it, a providence, as the parties in question considered it, 
 brought them the aid they so earnestly desired. 
 
 The Rev. William Longbottom had for several years been 
 .labouring in India, but, his health being greatly impaired, he was 
 appointed to Australia, in the hope that its more salubrious 
 climate would soon recruit his strength. His appointment was
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 41 1 
 
 Swan River, in Western Australia; but there being no vessel 
 direct from India to that port, he sailed for Hobart-Town. 
 Thence he took a passage in a small vessel of 40 tons 
 called the " Fanny," bound for Swan River. After some days, 
 the vessel was wrecked in Encounter-Bay, on the 16th of June, 
 1838. The Captain, the four seamen, and the Missionary family, 
 took shelter on the other side of the sand-hills, going each day 
 to the ship for provisions and water. The charts and nautical 
 instruments were missing, and, being totally ignorant of their 
 position, they knew not how to proceed. For one month did 
 they remain in this forlorn condition upon a wild sandy coast. 
 At length, however, a party of white men appeared, who repre- 
 sented themselves to be shipwrecked mariners. Their vessel, 
 the "Elizabeth," had struck the rocks, about 100 miles lower 
 down, and their wretched appearance at once indicated their 
 sufferings from hunger. They had for some time subsisted 
 upon shell-fish; but they possessed one advantage over the 
 people of the " Fanny," they had a compass and a chart. 
 Mutual assistance was proffered, food by one, and guidance 
 by the other. All were now occupied in building a boat, by 
 means of which they might reach the home of civilized man. 
 On the 16th of August, 1838, they set off from their melan- 
 choly sojourn in the desert. They carried the boat a mile over 
 the sand-hills, and launched it upon the dreary salt waters of 
 the Coorong, a long, narrow lake, uniting itself with Lake 
 Victoria. Here they were sheltered by the high bank of sand 
 from the violence of the sea-breezes. The frail bark passed 
 across the noble river Murray ; and the party, from fear of the 
 natives, walked during the night a distance of twenty miles, to 
 the station of the whale fisheries upon Encounter-Bay. Here 
 they were most hospitably treated. In the meantime the 
 Captain of the " Elizabeth " had started off on foot ; and, 
 reaching Adelaide, communicated to Edward Stephens, Esq., 
 the fact of the shipwreck of the Wesleyan Missionary family. 
 A vessel was immediately sent for the unfortunate voyagers. 
 They parted with their rough but kind-hearted friends the 
 whalers, and were soon the objects of universal sympathy and 
 
 T 2
 
 412 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 regard in the rising settlement of Adelaide. Subscriptions 
 were opened for the purchase of clothes and other necessaries 
 for the 'family; and also to procure books to supply the lost 
 library of the Minister. 
 
 Mr. Longbottom at once entered upon his work. To his 
 astonishment he found a flourishing Society, with an interest- 
 ing Sunday-school, and a substantial place of worship. The 
 labours of Mr. Longbottom were successful ; the cause in- 
 creased, so that a larger place of worship became necessary; 
 and in June, 1839, another and much larger chapel was 
 opened. Since that period the cause has still advanced; a 
 more capacious and handsome chapel has been erected in 
 Adelaide, and much good has been effected throughout the 
 colony. The Wesleyan Church in South Australia has 27 
 chapels, 19 other preaching-places, 12 Missionaries, 3 Day- 
 schools, 26 Sunday-schools, 1,534 Scholars, 63 Local-preachers, 
 1,122 church members, and 5,500 members of congregations. 
 In this colony the respective Denominations are entirely cast 
 upon their own resources, there being now no State support 
 afforded to any church in South Australia. 
 
 In the evening we sailed. Here Mr. Boyce left me. We 
 had been associated for several months in the prosecution of 
 an important work. He had invariably treated me with the 
 kindest attention, and genuine hospitality. I felt that I 
 sincerely loved him, and could not now bid him farewell, with 
 but little hope of meeting him again in this imperfect state, 
 without deep feeling and solemn thought. 
 
 3d. During the night one of the passengers died. The 
 circumstances of his death were melancholy and instructive. 
 He had recently become possessed of a large fortune by the 
 death of his uncle, who had, as an Australian merchant, amassed 
 great wealth. The young man, being thus suddenly raised to 
 affluence, became dissipated, drank immoderately, and, as the 
 result, died in a fit of delirium tremens. An interesting young 
 man had thus in a few months been ruined by the sudden 
 influx of Australian gold ; and it is to be feared that he is but 
 a type of a certain class of persons to whom Australian gold
 
 THE SOUTHERN WOULD. 413 
 
 baa been a curse, rather than a blessing. I committed his 
 body to the deep, in the presence of many who deeply lamented 
 his unhappy death. " Whatsoever a man soweth, that shall he 
 also reap." 
 
 5th. Sabbath. I preached on board. The passengers, with 
 scarcely an exception, attended, and appeared generally in- 
 terested. Many of them were Melbourne merchants, who had 
 acquired immense wealth, but they did not appear unduly 
 elated by their rapid and extraordinary success. 
 
 6th. Arrived at King George's Sound. Here I had a 
 letter handed to me from Perth, the capital, asking for an 
 additional Minister to be appointed to that locality. I learned 
 that one was also desired for Albany, the town connected 
 with the shipping here, which is expected to become an im- 
 portant place, especially as a coaling station for steamers plying 
 between Australia and India, as well as between Australia and 
 Europe. 
 
 7th. Having now reached the last port in Australia, I 
 occupied the leisure of this day in reviewing various subjects 
 connected with my mission to the Southern World. 
 
 It is a pleasing feature in the Wesleyan Missionary Society, 
 that it cares not merely for the perishing Heathen, but for our 
 own countrymen who have emigrated to distant lands, and who, 
 in many cases, but for the wisely-directed efforts of this Society, 
 would be entirely destitute of Gospel ordinances. This is true 
 as respects Australia; and in thus speaking of the labours of 
 the Wesleyan church, I have no wish to depreciate the exer- 
 tions of other religious communities; but, on the contrary, 
 rejoice in stating that God has blessed them all, and made 
 them a blessing. But in that form of Christianity designated 
 Wesleyan Methodism, there is, as I think, and as the venerable 
 and truly Christian Bishop of Melbourne has publicly stated, a 
 peculiar adaptation to the population of this very remarkable 
 island continent. It possesses facilities for going after emigrants 
 into the wilderness not possessed in an equal degree by any 
 other community, and in this work it has been so enterprising 
 and aggressive, that its agents, as already stated, were first
 
 414 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 amongst the colonists of Victoria, and first amongst the diggers 
 on the gold-fields. 
 
 About forty years only have elapsed since the seed of 
 Methodism was deposited in Australia, which, in the estimation 
 of many, was " less than the least of all seeds;" but it germi- 
 nated, and, in opposition to the predictions of many of its foes 
 and the fears of some of its friends, it has become a great tree, 
 extending its branches to every colony in Australasia, as well 
 as to several groups of islands in Polynesia; and is affording 
 shelter to thousands of immortal beings, who are now joyfully 
 reposing under its refreshing shade. 
 
 Australia is doubtless designed to occupy a prominent 
 position in the world's future history, and to become the centre 
 of light in the Southern Hemisphere. The Australian Wes- 
 leyans being aware of this, are evincing an earnest and noble 
 solicitude to increase the number of their faithful Ministers, that 
 Wesleyanism may take its full share in giving a Christian 
 impress to the institutions, and in directing the destinies of 
 this great country. Many of them are wealthy, and are also 
 liberal. During the last twelve months, in addition to contri- 
 butions in support of local objects, they have contributed .1,950 
 towards the outfit and passage of additional Ministers, besides 
 upwards of 3,000 to the Funds of the Parent Society; and I 
 am happy to say that on the Wesleyan churches in Australia 
 being formed into a distinct, though affiliated connexion, they 
 will cheerfully undertake to support all their Ministers, main- 
 tain their own institutions, and contribute a handsome sum 
 annually for purely Missionary purposes. 
 
 Ifr has sometimes been said that the British Conference will 
 sacrifice the cause of Christ, rather than part with any of its 
 power. That witness is not true. It possesses power in 
 Australasia and Polynesia, legitimately obtained, and hitherto 
 wisely exercised, but now proposes to give up that power. 
 And why 1 ? Not as the result of any pressure from without, 
 for there has been none; nor yet at the request of the parties 
 concerned, for no such request has been made; but simply 
 because it believes that the time has arrived when it can transfer
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 415 
 
 its power to other hands with advantage to the cause of religion; 
 thus subordinating its power to the interests of the Redeemer's 
 kingdom, a principle upon which, as I believe, it invariably 
 endeavours to act, whatever may be said to the contrary. 
 
 This arrangement will invest our Mission churches in 
 Australasia and Polynesia with great responsibility; and some 
 have anxiously inquired, Are they sufficiently qualified to 
 undertake that responsibility? I believe they are. But are 
 the Ministers not too juvenile to occupy a position so important? 
 I think they are not. In Australia alone there are nineteen 
 Ministers who have sustained the sacred office from eighteen to 
 thirty-three years ; and there are several others in New Zealand 
 and Polynesia of equal standing. Comparison here would be 
 improper; but there are in these regions Ministers, of deep 
 piety, ardent zeal, sober judgment, noble enterprise, and con- 
 siderable mental power, equal to any emergency that may arise ; 
 and amongst whom will doubtless be found the Thompsons, 
 Barbers, Pawsons, and Mathers of the Australasian Connexion. 
 Nor is there any lack of enlightened and able laymen to co- 
 operate with the Ministers in rendering the contemplated 
 arrangement a blessing to the Southern World. I have no 
 fear lest they should betray the generous confidence about to be 
 reposed in them, or disappoint the expectation formed of their 
 ability to manage their own affairs. [Note K^\ 
 
 8th. Having taken on board a sufficient quantity of coal, 
 we started with a fair wind for Ceylon, and soon lost sight of 
 Australia, the land of the world's attraction, where the " freaks 
 of fortune" have been most extraordinary, occasioning in some 
 excessive joy, in others excessive sorrow; and, with a startling 
 prodigality, filling purses, and breaking hearts. 
 
 12th. ftunday. Held service in the saloon. The weather 
 was beautiful, the congregation most encouraging, and all 
 seemed to feel that the day was holy unto the Lord. 
 
 l^th. A letter written by a passenger to a friend having 
 been washed out of the cabin by a heavy sea, was picked up 
 by one of the stewards and read. Very improperly, the con- 
 tents soon became known, and produced not a little excitement ;
 
 416 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 especially as the writer had designated the passengers " gold- 
 diggers and snobs," and had intimated that the ladies on board 
 were not well-bred. It was a most unfortunate production, 
 even had the allegations it contained been true ; but much more 
 so, seeing that there existed no ground for the offensive senti- 
 ments expressed. The offender, however, met the displeasure 
 excited with amazing good-nature, and, to the credit of all 
 parties, nothing serious ensued. 
 
 19th. The Sabbath. The weather now being very hot, I 
 preached on deck, under a well-spread awning, and was much 
 pleased with the congregation. 
 
 2Qth. This evening we. had one of the finest tropical sun- 
 sets I ever witnessed. The foreground on the horizon pre- 
 sented a succession of splendid castles, some of which were 
 dismantled, others apparently covered with ivy, and others 
 with their towers bristling with cannon. The background 
 appeared to be formed of mountains of great altitude, whose 
 sides here and there were covered with snowy clouds, and 
 whose elevated summits occasionally exhibited the lurid glare 
 of craters in volcanic action. In the intermediate space, there 
 appeared arid deserts, with figures which to the deluded vision 
 seemed like caravans comprising camels, dromedaries, and 
 numerous pilgrims. In other parts of this imposing landscape 
 lakes were seen, some like molten silver, and others like bur- 
 nished gold. In these lakes appeared islets of fantastic form, 
 covered with exquisitely beautiful trees of most remarkable 
 foliage. In some cases the colour of the foliage was verdant, 
 in others lilac, in others crimson, and in others blue ! This 
 scene of magnificence was constantly changing, until it entirely 
 passed away; but it left upon my mind an impression which 
 can never be obliterated so long as I have any power to 
 appreciate the grand and the beautiful. 
 
 22d. Aa several of our passengers were to leave us at 
 Ceylon for India and China, I was presented with an Address, 
 and a handsome Testimonial, as an expression, as they said, of 
 their "appreciation of my character and services." This, of 
 course, was gratifying, and the more so as they were all entire
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 417 
 
 strangers to me when I embarked at Melbourne, and belonged 
 to other religious communities than that with which I stood 
 connected. In all my voyaging I never met with greater courtesy 
 or respect than that with which I was honoured from all parties 
 on board the " Madras," and shall be very happy to meet with 
 any of them again. 
 
 23c Early this morning, after a most rapid and comfort- 
 able passage, we arrived at Point-de-Galle. I sent my card to 
 the Rev. Joseph Rippon, our valuable Missionary stationed 
 there, and soon had the pleasure of seeing him on board. 
 Having to change steamers at this port, my baggage was taken 
 on shore, and with great politeness passed through the 
 Custom-House. Mr. Rippon drove me to his residence, where 
 his amiable wife, afflicted as she was at the time, gave me a 
 truly Christian welcome. In a few hours the steamer with the 
 English mail arrived, and I was soon poring over files of 
 English newspapers, with an interest which perhaps no one can 
 justly estimate who has not, like myself, been deprived for 
 many months of such a medium of information. In the evening 
 the Rev. Mr. Clarke, Presbyterian Minister, and Mrs. Clarke 
 dined with us, and the day proved to be one of much 
 pleasure. 
 
 2&th, Rose at daybreak, and, in company with Mr. Rippon, 
 took a walk through the Fort, from which we had a fine view 
 of the town and harbour. After taking our coffee we drove 
 through the bazaar, where the natives were busily employed in 
 exposing the various articles they had for sale, which did not 
 appear to be of great value. Leaving the bazaar we proceeded 
 through a most beautiful grove of cocoa-nut trees for nearly 
 four miles, to visit some cinnamon gardens. On our way I 
 saw several cocoa-nuts covered with a kind of woven grass to 
 prevent their being injured by "an evil eye." We met many 
 travellers, and the women, with hardly an exception, bearing 
 burdens; but the men, shame upon them ! free from all such 
 incumbrances. I observed charms on the persons of several 
 individuals ; and, on inquiry, ascertained they were intended to 
 appease the devil, and to promote health. It seems that in 
 
 T 5
 
 418 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 sickness various incantations are used by the priests to expel 
 from the patient the evil one, who is supposed to be the author 
 of the malady. On such occasions cocoa-nuts are brought, and 
 during the mutterings of the incantation the wicked demon 
 is believed to pass from the afflicted party to the fruit, and 
 it is supposed that whoever eats of that fruit will be visited 
 with the malady. Frequently do our native Catechists present 
 themselves when such incantations are practised, defy the power 
 of any priestly charm, eat of the fruit with impunity, and in 
 that way succeed in weakening the confidence of many people 
 in the efficacy of these dark and debasing superstitions. 
 
 During our journey I saw not only youths, but mere children, 
 smoking cigars; and on my animadverting upon the practice, I 
 was assured by Mr. Eippon that not unfrequently were children 
 taught to smoke before they were weaned ! and that he had 
 seen cases of the kind. We passed a few bungalows in which 
 weary travellers were resting. On reaching the cinnamon 
 gardens, the odour was delicious, and I furnished myself with 
 a few specimens of the wood of this remarkable tree. 
 
 On returning to breakfast, I was beset with many natives, 
 who wished me to purchase various curiosities they had for 
 sale. Their importunity was remarkable, their tact extra- 
 ordinary, and their perseverance irresistible. But they were 
 wily extortioners, asking always thrice the amount they were 
 willing to take. Having made a few purchases, I soon had 
 many of the curiosities of the place brought to me for sale. 
 This gave me an opportunity of seeing and having intercourse 
 with a great number of persons of various complexions, lan- 
 guages, and creeds. 
 
 25tk. Mr. Rippon kindly drove me a few miles from Point- 
 de-Galle, to visit a Budhist temple. On our journey we halted 
 to examine the traveller's tree. Its form was peculiar, and in 
 connection with each leaf there appeared to be about a pint 
 of water to refresh the weary traveller, but so secured that 
 human art was necessary to render it available. 
 
 In the neighbourhood of the temple we visited a native 
 Christian, a man of great simplicity, who had given ample
 
 THE SOUTHEBN WORLD. 419 
 
 proof of true conversion. After some preliminary remarks the 
 following conversation took place between us : 
 
 "In what religion were you educated?" 
 
 " In the religion of Budha." 
 
 " Did you go to the temple, present flowers to Budha, and 
 attend to other ceremonies'?" 
 
 " I did." 
 
 " What led you to become a Christian?" 
 
 "I attended the Mission-school, and saw the folly of 
 Budhism. Besides, I felt I was a sinner and required pardon, 
 but Budhism offered none. I wanted a Redeemer, and found 
 that Redeemer in Jesus Christ." 
 
 " In what respect has Christianity benefited you?" 
 
 "Budhism gave me no hope; Christianity has given it." 
 
 " Do you feel that Christianity has altered your spirit and 
 conduct ?" 
 
 " I do. My spirit is sometimes quick, because of my wife, 
 who is not converted, and wishes to take our children to the 
 temple; but it is restrained by the power of Divine grace." 
 
 "You must pray for your wife, and let her see in your 
 whole deportment the superiority and desirableness of 
 Christianity." 
 
 " I endeavour to do so, and if my wife were only converted 
 I should have a heaven on earth." 
 
 " What, in your opinion, is the great obstacle to the followers 
 of Budha becoming the followers of Christ 1 " 
 
 "Prejudice. They say their religion is older than Christianity; 
 that it was the religion of their forefathers, and they will not 
 change it. They are also afraid of being reproached by their 
 neighbours, and of being discarded by their families." 
 
 This interesting man guided us through the jungle to the 
 temple, which is situated upon a considerable elevation. I 
 entered the place of abomination. It contained two apartments, 
 the walls of which were covered with hieroglyphic characters, 
 representing the different transmigrations of Budha. In the 
 inner apartment there was the image of Budha, twenty-seven 
 feet in height, and in width proportionate, being the reputed
 
 420 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 dimensions of his last birth. The temple, not being of suf- 
 ficient height to allow him to stand erect, he appeared in a 
 recumbent position, surrounded by numerous flowers which 
 had been presented to him that day by his deluded votaries. 
 Two priests were in the temple, and we had, substantially, the 
 following conversation : 
 
 " Why do you worship Budha?" 
 
 " That we may have a reward." 
 
 " But what is there in Budha to claim such homage?" 
 
 " He is greater than all." 
 
 " How do you know that?" 
 
 "From the sacred books." 
 
 "Where is Budha now, whose image you here worship?" 
 
 " He has attained to annihilation." 
 
 " Then you believe he ezists nowhere. If so, how can a 
 non-existence confer on you a reward?" 
 
 " He does not do it, but it follows as a natural result." 
 
 " What is the highest reward to which you can attain 1 " 
 
 " Annihilation." 
 
 After a good deal of metaphysical reasoning about creation, 
 I told them that their sacred books, to which they referred, 
 contained false statements; and, if in one thing they spoke 
 false, they might do so in others. Their sacred books said 
 the world was flat, whereas it was round like a ball. This had 
 again and again been proved by navigators who had sailed 
 round the world. A boy being near us, I put my hand upon 
 his head, which was very round, and said, " The world is some- 
 thing like this boy's head." I then fixed the locality of 
 England at one ear, Australia at the other, and traced my 
 passage from England to her Antipodes, and showed how vessels 
 went forward, and without turning back reached the place from 
 which they started. I also pointed out the relative position 
 of Ceylon, and the course I should take for England. The boy 
 looked unutterable things whilst I put England upon one ear 
 and Australia upon another, and spoke of vessels sailing over 
 the crown of his head, and returning under his chin to the 
 place whence they had started. This somewhat remarkable
 
 THE SOUTHERN WOULD. 421 
 
 lesson in Geography, taught in the temple of Budha, I venture ' 
 to say made an impression upon the mind of the astounded 
 boy that he will never forget. This was the only thing that 
 seemed to fasten upon the minds of the priests, and which 
 they did not attempt to answer. I now told them that I was 
 obliged to them for showing me the temple, but that I was 
 deeply afflicted when I considered their perishing condition, 
 and that I earnestly hoped and prayed that they would turn 
 from dumb idols to serve the living God. One of them replied, 
 that he would like to examine our sacred books; and, if he were 
 convinced that Budhism was false, he would give it up. Mr. 
 Rippon at once engaged to supply him with a Bible, and I could 
 not but pray that the entrance of the word might give light. 
 
 On returning, we passed through several paddy or rice fields, 
 and saw natives busily engaged in preparing them for seed. 
 Some of them were covered with water, which forcibly reminded 
 me of Ecclesiastes xi. 1 : " Cast thy bread upon the waters, 
 and thou shalt find it after many days." I passed also through 
 a nutmeg-garden, and plucked some of its fruit. 
 
 26tk. Sabbath. In the morning I preached in the Mission 
 Chapel, a very neat, plain, and suitable building. The congre- 
 gation, consisting of Europeans and natives who understood 
 the English language, was respectable and attentive. I had 
 preached in Europe, in Africa, in America, in Australia, as well 
 as in many of the islands of the sea; and to-day I was per- 
 mitted to proclaim the Gospel in Asia. May I in the day of 
 the Lord have the pleasure of seeing some to whom I have 
 ministered the Word of Life coming from the East, and from 
 the West, and from the North, and from the South, to sit 
 down in the kingdom of the Father ! 
 
 In the afternoon I heard one of the Native Missionaries 
 preach in Singhalese with much fluency and zeal. After 
 service three Native young men followed me into the Mission- 
 House, when the following conversation took place : 
 
 First young man. 
 "How long have you been a Christian?"
 
 422 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 " About three years." 
 
 " What were you previously to that?" 
 
 " I was a Budhist." 
 
 "Did you ever go to the temple to make offerings?" 
 
 " I did. I offered flowers and money." 
 
 "What led you to forsake Budhism, and become a 
 Christian?" 
 
 " The Spirit convinced me of sin. I was miserable, and 
 wanted forgiveness; but there was no pardon in Budhism; in 
 Christianity I understood there was." 
 
 " Then you knew something of Christianity : how did you 
 obtain that knowledge?" 
 
 " By attending the Government Schools, and hearing sermons." 
 
 "Have you found in Christianity the pardon you desired, 
 and which Budhism could not give?" 
 
 "I have: God has for Christ's sake forgiven me; and I am 
 happy." 
 
 Second young man. 
 
 " How long is it since you became a follower of Christ ? " 
 
 " About four years." 
 
 " Previously to that, were you also a worshipper of Budha?" 
 
 "I was." 
 
 "Did you ever pray when you were a follower of Budha?" 
 
 " I did not : there is no prayer in Budhism." 
 
 " What induced you to turn from dumb idols to serve the 
 living God? " 
 
 " I went to the Government School ; read several books ; 
 and was convinced that Christianity was true." 
 
 " Do you feel its saving power upon your heart?" 
 
 " I cannot answer that satisfactorily; but I am seeking to be 
 saved." 
 
 " Although you did not pray as a Budhist, you now pray ? " 
 
 " I do." 
 
 " And does not God answer your prayer ? " 
 
 " I have some doubts on that subject ; but I know he will 
 do so, if my prayer be sincere and right."
 
 THE SOUTHEEN WORLD. 423 
 
 Third young man. 
 
 "And did you formerly worship Budha?" 
 
 " I did, when I was in ignorance." 
 
 " You now believe that Budhism is false, and Christianity 
 is true 1 ?" 
 
 " I do, and feel quite assured of it." 
 
 "What evidence have you of that?" 
 
 " Christianity has changed my heart, and filled me with 
 love." 
 
 " Then you have the witness that Christianity is no cunningly 
 devised fable, but is of God?" 
 
 " I have that witness within." 
 
 "Is it your opinion that many of the followers of Budha 
 believe that Christianity is true?" 
 
 " Many of them believe what Christianity says about a 
 Creator, and several of the priests believe it, but not so many 
 believe in what it says about a Redeemer." 
 
 "But, as Budhism denies the Creator, their belief in that 
 Creator must shake their confidence in the system 1 ?" 
 
 " It does, and they will all by-and-by become Christians." 
 
 " What prevents those who fully credit the truth of 
 Christianity from becoming Christians now?" 
 
 " The fear of being abused and persecuted." 
 
 In the evening I heard the Rev. W. C. Milne, from China, 
 who was to be my fellow-passenger to England. His sermon 
 was full of Christ as the great Teacher and Saviour of men. 
 
 27^. Visited one of our Mission Schools, and felt much 
 interested with the appearance and proficiency of the children. 
 In the evening I preached to a large and respectable assembly ; 
 after which Mr. Rippon obligingly furnished me with the 
 annexed replies to the following questions I had proposed. 
 
 " 1. To what extent has the Wesleyan Mission in Ceylon been 
 successful 1 ?" 
 
 " We have 1,456 full church members in the South Ceylon 
 District, and above 300 on trial. Of the full members about
 
 424 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 300 are Singhalese, and, for the most part, converts from 
 Budhism. The remaining 150 are Europeans and Burghers. 
 This has been the direct result of our Missionary operations. 
 Many incidental results have also doubtless followed; and the 
 people may be considered in many respects more prepared for 
 the Gospel than they were. There has been a growing convic- 
 tion that Budhism is false, and Christianity is true. Many are 
 fully convinced of this, who are restrained from an open pro- 
 fession of the Christian religion by fear of persecution. There 
 is a very extensive knowledge of the doctrines of Christianity 
 amongst the people. Though they do not embrace the truth, 
 they know what we teach." 
 
 " 2. What are the principal hindrances to your ministry 
 among the people?" 
 
 " There are no difficulties in the way of the conversion of 
 the natives, except such as may be overcome by prayer, faith, 
 diligence, zeal, and perseverance. The influence of Europeans, 
 especially of soldiers and sailors, upon the native mind, however, 
 is of a very pernicious character, as they bring continual 
 reproach and scandal on the Christian name, and our work is 
 doubtless greatly retarded by this means ; but I believe a want 
 of dependence upon the Divine faithfulness in the fulfilment 
 of the Scripture promises is the main cause of discouragement 
 and failure where these take place. Caste exists among the 
 Singhalese in a mild form; but it is as much opposed to the 
 Budhist religion as it is to Christianity, and presents no obstacle 
 to the conversion of the people. Before they become Christians 
 the different castes will not eat together or intermarry. After 
 their conversion they associate together with the utmost good- 
 will. It is a remarkable fact, however, that at Morotto, where 
 we have 400 native converts, we have not a single instance of 
 marriage between persons of different castes. One of our 
 Catechists, who is of the fisher (a low) caste, refused to marry 
 a Christian female of the highest caste, who was willing to 
 accept him, saying that he did not like the goigama (agri- 
 cultural) girls, because he wished his bride's friends to make 
 him presents of fish !"
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 425 
 
 " 3. What has been the effect generally of the instruction 
 imparted to those who have attended our Mission Schools'?" 
 
 " We have many members and some Native Ministers who 
 were trained in our Mission Schools, and who by this means 
 were rescued from Heathenism. The number is doubtless small 
 in proportion to the total number who have passed through our 
 schools during the last thirty years, and the only way to secure 
 a larger proportion is, to increase the efficiency of the schools. 
 This can only be done by a greatly increased outlay for 
 Educational purposes, which is quite impossible without a 
 further grant from home. Multitudes whom we have educated 
 still remain Heathens : but one great advantage we derive from 
 the instruction they have received is, that nearly the whole 
 population can read; and are not only willing, but anxious, to 
 receive the books and tracts which we distribute freely among 
 them. The priests try to collect these and destroy them, but 
 the people hide them; and a native will frequently bring out 
 from his cottage a bundle of 40 or 50 tracts, which he had 
 formerly received, and all of which he has read." 
 
 " 4. Is it your opinion that in the prosecution of the Mission 
 work in the East too much has been expected from education 
 and too little from the preaching of the Gospel, the Divinely 
 appointed instrument of the world's salvation?" 
 
 " Not in this district. Our policy has always been to aim 
 principally at the conversion of the adult population through 
 the direct agency of a preached Gospel, and when a number of 
 persons in one neighbourhood profess a willingness to attend 
 preaching, and to embrace Christianity, we establish a school 
 among them for the education of their children, and hold 
 religious services in the school-bungalows on the Sabbath. Our 
 method is what is termed in India the Evangelical; that is, we 
 make preaching our great work, and education entirely subor- 
 dinate, though we consider it a valuable auxiliary." 
 
 " 5. What are your views of a Native Ministry?" 
 
 " The importance of having a well-trained Native Ministry 
 cannot be over-estimated. A really qualified Native Preacher 
 is more likely to be extensively useful than an English Minister,
 
 426 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 because he has no difficulty with the language in the first 
 instance, and from the beginning has an intimate knowledge 
 of the manners, habits of thought, and religion of the people, 
 which a stranger can only acquire by long residence and close 
 study. A Native Ministry is the most economical. Taking 
 into account the expenses of outfit, passage, &c., an European 
 costs as much as three natives. They will always require 
 efficient European superintendence however; and so far as my 
 acquaintance with them goes, they lack the higher powers of 
 mind which are required for the direction of great movements. 
 They are timid, soon discouraged, and, perhaps, as a rule, are 
 less disinterested and self-denying than European Missionaries." 
 
 " 6. What have been the effects of the challenge given by the 
 Missionaries of Ceylon, some time ago, to the devil priests of 
 the country 1 ?" [Note Z.] 
 
 " The effect has been salutary. When Europeans challenged 
 the priests, and exposed the hollowness of their pretensions, the 
 priests admitted, and the people universally believed, that their 
 devils had no power over foreigners ; buWhen the priests were 
 challenged and defeated by Native Singhalese Christians, the 
 conviction became general that the Christian religion is a 
 sufficient protection against demoniacal influence. This is a 
 very important point gained. Again, the devil priests profess 
 to have a twofold power. First, to cure the sick; almost 
 every kind of sickness being attributed to the malice of demons, 
 which the priests profess to propitiate. Second, to inflict 
 various kinds of evils, such as sickness, death, &c., upon whom- 
 soever they choose, by invoking the demons to take possession 
 of them. The challenges which were given were directed 
 against the latter point, and it is here principally that a salutary 
 impression has been made : but the natives still believe in the 
 power of incantations to cure diseases, and to ward off evil ; 
 and devil ceremonies are therefore practised in case of sickness 
 almost as universally as ever. These ceremonies often produce 
 beneficial results upon the patients, by working strongly upon 
 their imaginations; and it is therefore difficult to shake the 
 belief of the people in their efficacy.
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 427 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 DEPARTURE from Ceylon Letter from a Native Christian Pas- 
 sengers Arrival at Aden Scriptural illustrations Arabs Departure 
 Red Sea Mount Horeb Passage of the Israelites Suez Loading 
 camels Journey across the Desert Mirage Rag-tree Arrival in 
 Cairo Grand Mosque Joseph's Well Slave-market Bazaars 
 Enmity of Mohammedans The Nile Canal Mohammedan sailors 
 Alexandria Malta Meeting of the English and French soldiers 
 Gibraltar Arrival at home. 
 
 I PARTED with my kind friends Mr. and Mrs. Rippon early in 
 the morning of the 28th of February, and went on board the 
 "Bengal," a beautiful screw steamer; but was told I could not 
 have a berth. Many of the Australian passengers met with 
 similar treatment. We had paid first-class fare without any 
 condition, from Melbourne to Southampton, and were now 
 abruptly informed that there was no accommodation for us. 
 We however determined to proceed; and the servants were 
 turned out of their berths to furnish accommodation, such as 
 it was, for a portion of us. I got the cook's berth, which being 
 close to the galley, rendered it all but unbearable; others did 
 not fare so well, and had to sleep on deck. The vessel was 
 sadly overcrowded, having upwards of 200 passengers on board, 
 besides 250 persons belonging to the ship. Some great mis- 
 management occasioned this terrible inconvenience ; and unless 
 a better arrangement be made, few Australian passengers, I 
 presume, will return to England by the East. 
 
 Having on the previous evening seen the Native Christian 
 who had spoken of the heathenism of his wife being a great 
 trial to him, and having requested him to present to her my 
 respects, and to say that I was much interested in her welfare, 
 and should feel personally obliged if she would impartially 
 consider the claims of Christianity as the only true religion,
 
 428 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 this morning, after going on board, I received the following 
 letter on the subject : 
 
 " DEAR REVEREND FATHER, I have conveyed your kind message to 
 my wife : she said she would inquire about it, and if she found the 
 Christian religion to be true, she would embrace it, I now thank you 
 heartily for your kindness. I hope God will shower blessings on your 
 endeavours to do good wherever you go. I forgot to lay one word before 
 you last night, which makes me write this note. I earnestly request that 
 you will remember Martin and his family, and pray for their conversion. 
 
 " Hoping that by the blessing of God you will make a prosperous 
 voyage, 
 
 " I remain, dear Sir, 
 
 " Your most obedient servant." 
 
 March 1st. I met with several pious persons amongst the 
 passengers, who delighted to talk on religious subjects : they 
 were very intelligent, and chiefly connected with the Indian 
 army. An East Indian Prince, the grandson of Hyder-Ally, 
 was also on board; but he soon gave evidence, by a strict 
 observance of the various rules connected with the system 
 of the false prophet, that he was a most zealous Mohammedan. 
 
 5th. Salbath. We had worship on deck. Mr. Milne read 
 the liturgy, and I preached. The day was exceedingly fine, 
 and the attendance and deportment of the passengers highly 
 satisfactory. The persons present belonged to twelve different 
 nations; but, generally, they understood the English language 
 as well as their mother tongue. 
 
 8th. Arrived at Aden, on the coast of Arabia, a strongly 
 fortified place, belonging to the East India Company. On 
 coming to anchor, the vessel was surrounded by a shoal of 
 Arabs, swimming like fishes, and asking for " buckshsheesh," or 
 a gift. Several coins were successively cast into the sea, when 
 in an instant the Arabs all disappeared, and after being a con- 
 siderable time under water came popping up one after another, 
 always with success, the fortunate one exhibiting the coin, and 
 then placing it in his mouth. 
 
 In the afternoon I went on shore with several of the 
 passengers; and, on our landing, the scene we witnessed re- 
 minded me of the description a writer gives of his landing in
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 429 
 
 Madeira, where he says that the contention of the donkey-men 
 about his person was so fierce, that in the scuffle which ensued 
 he found himself astride two donkeys at the same time, and 
 his head laid upon a third ! After a great deal of shouting, 
 and pushing, and kicking, and sprawling, and laughing, and 
 crying, on the part of the Arabs, we all found ourselves 
 mounted either on donkeys, or fine Arabian horses. Off the 
 party went, helter-skelter, to visit the town, a distance of four 
 miles; and as some had not made themselves acquainted with 
 horsemanship, they presented figures sufficiently grotesque, 
 and encountered perils not a few. One might be seen 
 with but one stirrup, a second holding on by the crupper, and 
 a third as eagerly grasping the mane. The heels, too, of some 
 of the animals were occasionally much higher than their 
 heads; nor was the journey performed without illustrations 
 of gravitation, in the falling of heavy bodies to the earth ! 
 
 The town is built in what was once the mouth of a crater, 
 with the black lava piled up around it in the wildest confusion, 
 affording no vestige of vegetation, and giving such an impres- 
 sion of desolation as I had not felt^before. In riding through 
 the town, I was forcibly reminded of certain passages of 
 Scripture, for I saw " two women grinding at a mill," and a 
 poor man " take up his bed and walk." In another direction 
 I saw a well, where " the damsels were drawing water for their 
 camels and asses" with which they were surrounded, and the 
 appearance and manners of the people altogether reminded me 
 of Old Testament times. After passing through the bazaar 
 we went up to the fortification, which commands a fine view 
 of the bay, and the Arabian coast. I picked up a few 
 specimens of scoria; and by the light of the moon returned 
 to the place whence we had started, and went on board. 
 
 During my brief visit I was much impressed with the 
 appearance of the wild Arabs. As I gazed upon their dark and 
 restless countenances, I thought of Ishmael with his bottle of 
 water in the wilderness, and of the prediction respecting him, that 
 his hand should be against every man, and every man's hand 
 against him, so fully accomplished in the history of his race.
 
 430 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 9th, Left Aden early, and towards evening we passed 
 through the " Gate of Tears," and entered the Red Sea. The 
 .Arabian coast, along which we skirted, was apparently without 
 a shrub or blade of grass. 
 
 12th. Sunday. Head-wind and rough sea. This prevented 
 us holding service on deck ; but I read with peculiar interest 
 the whole Scripture history connected with the waters over 
 which we were passing, and thought of Israel's God. 
 
 13th. We had a fine view of the Abyssinian mountains. 
 They appeared abrupt, broken, wild, and barren. 
 
 15th. Early this morning we were opposite Mount Sinai ; 
 but in consequence of the haziness of the atmosphere it could 
 not be seen. Mount Horeb, however, loomed in the distance, 
 and filled my mind with awe. Here " the Angel of the Lord 
 appeared unto Moses in a flame of fire out of the midst of a 
 bush; and he looked, and behold, the bush burned with fire, 
 and the bush was not consumed." Here God called to his 
 servant and said, " Put off thy shoes from off thy feet, for the 
 place whereon thou standest is holy ground. I am the God 
 of thy father, the God of Abraham, the God of Isaac, and the 
 God of Jacob. And Moses hid his face ; for he was afraid to look 
 upon God." Here Moses received a Divine commission to go 
 down to Egypt, God saying unto him, " Come now therefore, 
 and I will send thee unto Pharaoh, that thou mayest bring 
 forth my people the children of Israel out of Egypt." Here 
 Jehovah invested his servant with power to work miracles, 
 that he might show signs and wonders unto Pharaoh, in 
 evidence that the Lord had sent him to deliver his people from 
 their house of cruel bondage. Here the man of God, at the 
 bidding of Jehovah, smote the rock, whence issued an abund- 
 ance of water to allay the thirst of the murmuring and 
 ungrateful Israelites. Here God, in terrible majesty, delivered 
 his holy law unto Moses; and "there were thunders and 
 lightnings, and a thick cloud upon the mount, and the voice 
 of the trumpet exceeding loud, so that all the people in the 
 camp trembled." And here Elijah, when he fled from Jezebel, 
 stood upon the mount, " and behold the Lord passed by, and
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLTX 431 
 
 a great and strong wind rent the mountain, and broke in pieces 
 the I'ocks before the Lord, but the Lord was not in the wind; 
 and after the wind an earthquake, but the Lord was not in the 
 earthquake; and after the earthquake a fire, but the Lord was 
 not in the fire ; and after the fire a small still voice." As I 
 gazed upon the mount, and thought of these things, I felt that 
 I sympathized with Moses, when he stood afar off, and said, 
 " I exceedingly fear and quake." And yet while these solemn 
 things were passing before my mind, and wholly absorbing my 
 attention, a passenger walked up to me, and inquired what 
 there was about the mountain to merit so much notice ! 
 
 In the afternoon we passed between " Has Abooderadge" and 
 " Ras Ligiah," about forty miles from Suez, the place where the 
 Israelites are supposed to have passed through the Red Sea, as 
 upon dry land. I am aware that other places near Suez have 
 by various writers been contended for as the scene of this great 
 miracle ; but Captain Morseby, who for five years was employed 
 by the East India Company in surveying the Red Sea, has 
 fixed upon this as the place most in accordance with the 
 Scriptural history, and, in my opinion, has most fully succeeded 
 in establishing his position. 
 
 " After having examined," says the Captain, " the whole 
 Egyptian coast of the Red Sea, with the Bible as my guide, 
 and considering the matter in all its bearings, I am enabled to 
 state that no other position on the whole beach, from Suez 
 downward to Aden, at all accords with the description given 
 of the position in Scripture." The weather was fine, and as 
 we steamed away in the centre of the channel I had a clear 
 view of both coasts; and from the character of the Egyptian 
 coast I at once perceived how probable it was for Pharaoh to 
 say of the Israelites, when they had arrived at this place, and 
 encamped by the sea, " They are entangled in the land, the 
 wilderness hath shut them in." I looked with intense interest 
 upon the shore on either side. I thought of the numerous 
 host, filled with dismay on finding themselves " entangled in 
 the land;" Pharaoh's army cutting off their retreat, and the 
 sea forbidding their advance. I thought of Moses, under
 
 432 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 Divine impulse, standing forward at that juncture, and saying, 
 " Fear ye not, stand still and see the salvation of God; for the 
 Egyptians you have seen to-day, ye shall see them again no 
 more for ever." I thought of the pillar of the cloud which 
 went from before their face, and stood between the camp of the 
 Egyptians and the camp of Israel, being a cloud of darkness 
 and terror to the former, but to the latter a shining light and 
 a symbol of blessing. I thought of Moses, at the bidding of 
 God, " stretching out his hand over the sea," and causing the 
 waters to divide, as he devoutly stood on the very shore to 
 which my attention was now directed. I thought of the path- 
 way of the elect of God, with its crystal wall on the right hand 
 and on the left, which was not to be trodden by any of the 
 defiled of Egypt, who served strange gods. I thought of the 
 tribes emerging from the deep on the opposite shore, to pro- 
 claim the greatness of their God, whilst the waters returned, 
 "and overthrew the Egyptians in the midst of the sea." I 
 thought of Miriam, the prophetess, with a timbrel in her hand, 
 followed by all the women, with timbrels and with dances, as 
 they celebrated with joyful hearts their glorious deliverance; 
 and, catching the inspiration of the theme, I involuntarily 
 exclaimed, 
 
 " Sound the loud timbrel o'er Egypt's dark sea : 
 Jehovah hath triumphed, his people are free ! " 
 
 16th. Last night we arrived at Suez, and I came on shore 
 this morning at 4 o'clock. Another steamer from Bombay 
 arrived at the same time ; and the cargoes of both vessels, with 
 the baggage of all the passengers, were landed with the utmost 
 despatch, and at 6 o'clock were ready to be placed on the backs 
 of camels to be transported across the desert to Cairo. One 
 thousand camels were required on the occasion. I witnessed 
 the process of loading; and, certainly, the sighing and groan- 
 ing of the animals as they knelt down to receive their burdens, 
 and the shouting and quarrelling of the Arabs arid the 
 Egyptians, which resulted in heavy blows and broken heads, 
 rendered the scene very exciting. I was exceedingly struck
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 433 
 
 with the camel's expression of countenance, indicating the 
 deepest anguish, when the load was too heavy for it. The 
 poor animal looked back at the burden with tears, and refused 
 to rise until relieved. In a few hours these " ships of the 
 desert" had received the whole of the goods from the two 
 steamers, and the thousand camels were on their way to the 
 capital of Egypt. The passengers of the " Bengal " were to be 
 conveyed in twenty-nine vans, four of which were to start in 
 company every three hours, and each van to contain six 
 passengers. Parties were made up, and lots drawn for the 
 different numbers; and I was fortunate enough to be in the 
 first van, with a very intelligent and agreeable party. We 
 started at 10 o'clock, and in a few minutes were in the desert, 
 which furnished no mark of vegetation, but appeared, as far 
 as the eye could reach, one unbroken waste of stones and sand. 
 In a short time, however, the aspect was changed, and we were 
 favoured with a most splendid mirage. Peaceful lakes appeared, 
 studded with beautiful islands of various forms and sizes. 
 Mountains of different altitudes, covered with heavy timber, 
 occupied the background, and here and there exhibited 
 sparkling waterfalls. Fields were seen, as if but newly tilled; 
 and rivers, with rippled surface, winding their course to the 
 distant ocean through a richly cultivated valley. Flocks 
 seemed to be grazing on verdant slopes, and herds luxuriating 
 on fruitful plains. Through certain vistas of the enchanting 
 scene, the ocean's waves, breaking upon numerous reefs, and 
 displaying their whitened crests, were presented to the 
 imagination ; and, indeed, the whole desert before us seemed 
 to be transformed into the most rich and varied landscape upon 
 which I had ever gazed. But, alas! it was all delusion. It 
 tantalized the desert traveller, and fled at his approach. Like 
 dissolving views, it was continually changing; and at length, 
 entirely melting away, left nothing to gaze upon but a parched 
 desert and a cloudless sky. 
 
 Towards sunset we passed the lonely, but celebrated acacia 
 tree, under the shade of which pilgrims halt on their way to 
 Mecca; and from their leaving some portion of their wardrobe
 
 434 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 on its branches in evidence of their pilgrimage, it is called the 
 " rag-tree." I saw several of these relics, and thought of the 
 multitudes that had been there, "spending money for that 
 which is not bread, and their labour for that which satisfieth 
 not." Near to this tree is the central station, where we halted 
 to dine ; and, for the first time, I drank of the delicious waters 
 of the Nile, which had been brought in skins from the neigh- 
 bourhood of Cairo. Here I picked up a few specimens of the 
 agate. After remaining at this comfortable station for an 
 hour, we resumed our journey, and reached Cairo in safety, 
 though much fatigued, in seventeen hours from Suez. The 
 journey through the desert is by no means a difficult one. 
 There are stations, and a change of horses every five or six 
 miles, and an abundance of refreshments for passengers, 
 liberally supplied by the Company, in whose vessel they have 
 come to Suez; and although there is a good deal of jolting, and 
 occasionally a restive horse or two, which may try the nerves 
 of the timid traveller, yet upon the whole the trip across the 
 desert is both safe and agreeable. 
 
 Ylih. After a few hours' repose at the "Oriental Hotel," we 
 engaged a suitable guide, and sallied forth to visit the most 
 attractive parts of the city. We went to the citadel, and 
 gained admission to the grand mosque, entirely built of rich 
 marble. I was much impressed with its magnificence, but felt 
 no pleasure when I thought of the God-dishonouring purpose 
 for which it was built. Near to this mosque we saw the place 
 where the Mameluke forced his horse over the battlements of 
 the citadel, that he might escape from the hand of cruel 
 treachery. It was impossible to look upon the spot, and think 
 of the frightful leap, without a feeling of terror. 
 
 We next directed our steps to Joseph's well. I drank of its 
 water, which was being drawn from a great depth by two oxen, 
 and which I found to be most refreshing and delicious. We 
 now were conducted through a densely populated part of the 
 city to the slave-market, where we found thirty human beings 
 exposed for sale. One third of them were children from Nubia; 
 and, according to the constrained admission of the salesman,
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 435 
 
 they had been stolen from their parents. The average price 
 asked for those children was 10. The poor helpless victims, 
 expecting to be purchased by some of our party, looked 
 anxiously at each of us, evidently scanning our features with 
 considerable solicitude; and when we turned away without 
 making any purchase, they evinced considerable disappoint- 
 ment. They were in wretched circumstances, and doubtless 
 thought that any change would be an improvement. May the 
 Lord pity the helpless captives ! On a gallery overlooking the 
 square in which the slave-market was held, several young 
 women presented themselves; and, on inquiry, we found that 
 they, too, were for sale. But on our going up the steps leading 
 to their apartments, they hastily disappeared to perform the 
 duties of the toilet; and in a few minutes stood before us 
 adorned with flowers, and arrayed in all the finery they could 
 command, evidently expecting to produce an impression ; 
 and certainly they did so, but it was that of deep pity for 
 rational beings so degraded by a cruel and most unrighteous 
 traffic. 
 
 We next visited the bazaars, the nurseries of the plague; 
 and, from the general aspect of things, and the dense crowds 
 that jostled us, we felt not a little afraid that we should leave 
 them with an increase of animal life; but happily our fears 
 were not realized. As we proceeded we had various manifesta- 
 tions of the deep enmity which the followers of the false 
 prophet cherish toward Christians. Some of the adults made 
 frightful grimaces as we passed them; and several of the 
 children, with countenances indicating the deepest contempt 
 and hatred, spat at us ! All the women we met were thickly 
 veiled, excepting their eyes, which were left at liberty, and, in 
 reference to our party, they certainly used that liberty without 
 any ceremony. In the afternoon we visited the gardens of the 
 Pasha ; and, although very well laid out, they want variety, 
 and are very much inferior to many gardens of private gentle- 
 men in England. We had not time to visit the Pyramids, 
 but, from the citadel, had a fine view of them ; and, from 
 their great altitude, they appeared to be much nearer than 
 
 u2
 
 436 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 they really were. In the evening we left by a Nile steamer 
 for Alexandria. 
 
 18th. During the night, the fog upon the Nile being so 
 dense, we were obliged to remain several hours at anchor. In 
 the morning we got under weigh, and were borne forward with 
 great rapidity. I had a fine view of the rich country through 
 which the Nile flows; and thought, if it were in the hands of 
 the English, it would soon become the garden of the world. 
 It was at this season of the year that the plagues came upon 
 the land of Egypt, and I saw the face of the country as 
 described by the sacred historian. "And the flax and the 
 barley was smitten : for the barley was in the ear, and the flax 
 was boiled. But the wheat and the rye were not smitten, for 
 they were not grown up." I plucked an ear of barley, but saw 
 nothing of wheat or rye. Many thoughts crowded upon me. 
 I thought of Israel's bondage for so many years in the very 
 land through which I was now passing; I thought of the 
 wonderful preservation of Moses in his ark of bulrushes, as I 
 passed by the locality where this is said to have taken place; 
 I thought of the river on which I was sailing being turned 
 into blood, and of its bringing forth frogs in frightful abund- 
 ance, for the conviction and punishment of a despotic and 
 idolatrous King; I thought of the great cry heard in Egypt 
 when the destroying angel passed over the land at the mid- 
 * night hour, and smote the firstborn of Pharaoh that sat on his 
 throne, unto the firstborn of the captive that was in the 
 dungeon, and all the firstborn of cattle; I thought of the 
 country as the cradle of science, as the scene of the most 
 stupendous miracles, and as the subject of prophecies now 
 most strikingly fulfilled; and I thought of its future 
 glory, when, according to ancient prophecy, it is to 
 lose its baseness, and become a bright and sparkling 
 gem in the diadem of Him to whom it once afforded an 
 asylum. 
 
 During the day, I was forcibly reminded of our Lord's words 
 in relation to the transactions of the last judgment; for I saw 
 on the banks of the river a shepherd dividing his sheep from
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 437 
 
 
 
 the goats. After sailing 120 miles on the Nile, we reached a 
 town which is 48 miles from Alexandria, but connected with 
 that city by means of a canal, which a few years ago was made 
 by the Pasha at an immense cost of human life, not fewer than 
 20,000 persons having perished in its construction. We went 
 on board the canal-boat, and as night very soon cast its mantle 
 over us, I had little opportunity of seeing more of the country, 
 and therefore sought repose below for a few hours, but with- 
 out effect, and was glad to take a position on the deck. The 
 sailors on board the Nile and canal boats were Mohammedan, 
 and their punctual attention to their religious duties was 
 very remarkable. At the hour of prayer they performed 
 various ablutions, and then several times prostrated themselves 
 upon the deck, placing their forehead upon it, and muttering 
 sundry prayers. This was done three times a day, before all 
 the passengers, without any embarrassment or shame. I thought 
 if Christians were to be as bold in confessing Christ as these 
 people were in confessing Mohammed, and as attentive to the 
 rational and elevating duties of Christianity as the Egyptian 
 boatmen were to those imposed by the system of the false 
 prophet, the world would soon feel it, and the renovation of 
 our race would, by the blessing of God, be speedily accom- 
 plished. 
 
 Idth. Sabbath. Arrived at Alexandria this morning, at 
 1 o'clock, and the hotels being all full, I had some difficulty 
 in finding accommodation. The city is a more respectable 
 and interesting place than Cairo. Its appearance, too, is much 
 more European; but, being Sabbath-day, I did not think it 
 proper to spend my time in sight-seeing; and, as I had to go 
 on board the " Ripon " in the evening, I did not therefore see 
 any of the lions of the place, with the exception of Pompey's 
 Pillar, which has been so frequently described. 
 
 20th. Sailed in the "Ripon," a fine vessel of 1,800 tons. 
 The Australian passengers were well accommodated, as some 
 compensation for the privations they had endured on board the 
 "Bengal." I had the poop-cabin, corresponding with that 
 of the Captain, and felt very comfortable; but many of
 
 438 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 the Indian passengers uttered grievous complaints as to their 
 accommodation. 
 
 24:th. After a beautiful passage, we arrived early in the 
 morning at Malta. I went on shore, and was remarkably 
 struck with the largeness and beauty of Valetta. Its streets, 
 though generally narrow, are exceedingly clean; its buildings 
 are good, and many of them even magnificent. I visited St. 
 John's Cathedral, a building of great beauty, and whose inlaid 
 marble pavement, exhibiting the arms of the Knights of St. 
 John and sundry other devices relating to that order, is 
 probably unequalled in any part of the world. Some of the 
 sculptures and paintings greatly interested me; but, amidst the 
 magnificence of the place, sat here and there a sinister-looking 
 Priest in his confessional-box, listening to the mutterings of a 
 devotee, and imposing penance, or giving absolution, according 
 to his humour or caprice. "If the blind lead the blind, both 
 shall fall into the ditch." 
 
 Leaving St. John's, I proceeded to the palace, and was very 
 politely shown through it. It is a splendid place; the wall 
 of the council-chamber is covered with rich tapestry, and 
 although nearly two hundred years old, it looks as fresh as if 
 it had but recently come from the needle. After passing 
 through many of the fortifications, and witnessing a grand 
 review of the troops lately arrived from England on their way 
 to help Turkey against Russia, I returned to the " Ripon," in 
 time to witness the arrival of a French steamer, bringing 
 troops to be employed in the same service. The English 
 soldiers turned out of their barracks, and recognising the 
 French soldiers as companions in arms, they received them 
 with vehement, prolonged, and enthusiastic cheers. A new 
 thing on the earth ! Often had the English and French met 
 in deadly conflict; but now they met in friendly alliance to 
 resist despotism, and to preserve the liberties of Europe. 
 Whilst I gazed upon the interesting spectacle before me, and 
 listened to the loud cheering of both parties, I could not but 
 pray that their arms might never more be turned against each 
 other, but that the two great nations might remain on terms
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 439 
 
 of unbroken friendship, uniting their counsels and influence 
 for the maintenance of right, and for the promotion and es- 
 tablishment of peace. In the afternoon we left for Gibraltar. 
 
 25th. I had a fine view of the mountains of Tunis, and 
 passed by the site of the ancient Carthage. This awakened 
 various feelings. While I thought of Hannibal and his mighty 
 army crossing the very sea over which I was sailing, now all 
 numbered with the dead, and of the splendour, riches, and 
 potency of the city before which the world quailed, now so 
 completely blotted from existence that its exact site can with 
 difficulty be identified, I felt the force of God's truth, that " the 
 glory of a man is as the flower of grass," and that it is the 
 truest wisdom to seek a "city which hath foundations, whose 
 Builder and Maker is God." 
 
 26th. Sabbath. I preached this morning in the saloon, and 
 Mr. Milne in the evening: Captain Morseby kindly offered us 
 every opportunity and facility for being useful; and indeed 
 his whole conduct towards us was that of a gentleman and 
 a Christian. 
 
 28th. Arrived at Gibraltar ; but as the vessel remained a 
 few hours only, I had not time to see much of the place. I 
 however managed to visit the Wesleyan Spanish School, and 
 was favourably impressed with the proficiency of its pupils. 
 The Rev. G. Alton, our Missionary, who preaches in both 
 English and Spanish, was engaged in pastoral visitation, and 
 could not be found. I therefore had not the pleasure of 
 meeting him, but received from Mrs. Alton some very interest- 
 ing and encouraging information respecting the Mission. From 
 what I saw of Gibraltar, I certainly think that, whilst in the 
 possession of the English, its fortifications must be impregnable. 
 
 April 3d. This evening I arrived at Southampton, and im- 
 mediately started for London to meet my family. In eighteen 
 months I had travelled, by sea and by land, about forty thou- 
 sand miles; had been in sundry perils, and exposed to many 
 trying changes of climate ; yet, such had been the kindness of 
 Divine Providence, that, with the exception of my usual sea- 
 sickness, I had not suffered an hour's illness; and now that I
 
 440 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 found the same kind Providence had watched over every 
 member of my numerous family, I must have been ungrateful 
 indeed had I not felt my deep obligation. " Bless the Lord, 
 my soul, and all that is within me bless his holy name. 
 Bless the Lord, my soul, and forget not all his benefits."
 
 NOTES 
 
 REFERRED TO IN THE VOLUME. 
 
 NOTE A. 
 
 Rules and Regulations of the Wesleyan Immigrants' Home, 
 
 1. THAT the hours of admission be from 8 o'clock in the morning until 
 sun-set throughout the year. 
 
 2. That as the primary object of the institution is the accommodation 
 of the members and friends of the Wesleyan church, six beds shall daily 
 be reserved for their use. 
 
 3. That all applicants for admission will be required to produce a note 
 of recommendation from a Wesleyan Minister, or other member of Com- 
 mittee, except in cases of emergency, when the Governor shall have power 
 to admit, for one night, any stranger he may deem respectable. 
 
 4. The scale of charges at present will be, for every person above 14 
 years of age, 4s. per diem ; and from 3 years of age to 14, one moiety of 
 that sum ; and no charge will be made for children under 3 years of age. 
 
 5. All persons will be required to pay in advance. 
 
 6. Family worship will be conducted in the large room every morning 
 and evening; in the morning, at a quarter before 8 o'clock, and in the 
 evening, at 8 o'clock in the winter and 9 o'clock in the summer. 
 
 7. The hours for meals will be, breakfast, 8 o'clock ; dinner, 1 o'clock ; 
 and tea, 6 o'clock. No arrangement will be made for those who are not 
 punctual at these hours. 
 
 8. The use of all intoxicating drinks in the establishment is prohibited, 
 and no smoking will be allowed within the walls of the house. 
 
 9. No person will be allowed to have more than one clothes chest or 
 bag in the house. The beds, bedding, and other luggage belonging to 
 the immigrants may be placed in the stores without charge, but without 
 responsibility to the Committee. 
 
 10. Families occupying bedrooms will be expected to keep them clean, 
 and allow the matron to inspect them at all times between the hours of 
 10 in the morning and 6 in the evening. 
 
 11. All lights will be extinguished before half-past 10 o'clock at night, 
 except in cases of sickness, or by permission of the matron. 
 
 12. Any person proved to be guilty of profane swearing, or any other 
 act of immorality, will be immediately expelled from the establishment. 
 
 13. No person will be allowed to carry on any trade, or work at any 
 business, at the house. 
 
 14. All persons who may have been in the establishment ten days 
 will be required, if necessary, to give place to others who, on their arrival, 
 may need its benefits. 
 
 u5
 
 442 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 NOTE B. 
 
 The following table, taken from the " Argus" newspaper, May 23, 1853, 
 shows the state of the labour-market, &c. 
 
 Married couples, without family, per annum, with rations. . 70 to 100 
 Married couples, with family, ditto, ditto . . 60 to 85 
 
 Shepherds, ditto, ditto . . 35 to 40 
 
 Housekeepers, ditto, ditto . . 32 to 35 
 
 General useful servants, ditto, ditto . . 70 to 75 
 
 Bullock drivers, with rations on farm, 2 10s. to 3 10s. per week. 
 Bullock drivers, ditto, on roads, 2 10s. to 4 Os. ditto. 
 
 Gardeners, per annum, with rations 70 to 80 
 
 Cooks, (Males,) 2 Os. to 4 Os. per week. 
 
 Waiters, ditto, 1 Os. to 1 10s. ditto. 
 
 Grooms, from 60 to 80 per annum. 
 
 Carpenters, good house, town work, 20s. to 25s. per day. 
 
 Wood splitters and fencers, with rations, 15s. ditto. 
 
 Storekeepers, ditto 55 to 75 per annum. 
 
 Blacksmiths accustomed to country work, and to horse-shoeing, from 20s. 
 
 to 25s. per day. 
 
 Good farm labourers, with rations, from 25s. to 30s. per week. 
 Labourers on the roads, 10s. per day, with wood, water, and tents. 
 Ploughmen, with rations, 30s. to 40s. per week. 
 Seamen for London, for the run home, 45 to 50. 
 
 Ditto Calcutta, ditto, 40 to 45. 
 
 Ditto Callao, ditto, 40. 
 
 Coasting, 9 to 10 per month. 
 
 FEMALE SERVANTS. 
 
 Thorough servants, per annum 25 to 35 
 
 Housemaids, ditto 20 to 30 
 
 Laundresses, ditto 30 to 40 
 
 Nursemaids, ditto 20 to 26 
 
 Cooks, ditto 35 to 50 
 
 In cases where rations are supplied, they consist of lOlbs. of flour, lOlbs. 
 of meat, 21bs. of sugar, |lb. of tea, weekly, for each person, with salt, &c., 
 and these rations are generally found to be more than sufficient. 
 
 These wages will doubtless appear to the English public very exorbitant ; 
 but other things are as much so. Take the following articles as an 
 example ; I give the retail prices : Bread, 4Jd. per Ib. ; butter, 3s. Gd. to 
 4s. per Ib. ; potatoes, 3d. per Ib. ; milk, Is. 6d. to 2s. per quart; eggs, 
 6d. each; cheese, 2s. 6d. to 3s. per Ib. ; ham, Is. 9d. to 2s. per Ib. ; coffee, 
 2s. to 2s. 6d. per Ib. ; cabbages, Is. 6d. to 2s. 6d. each ; fowls, 14s. 6d. to 16s. 
 per pair; turkeys, 21s. each; porter, 30s. per dozen; firewood, 3 5s. to 
 3 10s. for a small load; coals, from 6 to 8 per ton; washing, from 
 7s. 6d. to 10s. per dozen. A few other things, however, I found reasonable.
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 443 
 
 Beef, 5d. to 6d. per Ib. ; mutton, 4>\d. per Ib. ; sugar, 3d. to 5d. per Ib. ; 
 Best tea, 3s. 6d. per Ib. House rent was fearfully high ; on an average 
 not less than a thousand per cent, upon the amount paid in London. I 
 was truly startled at the -rent of shops, which, in some cases, reached 
 2,000 per annum ; and I found that a family could not obtain two small 
 rooms, in the cheapest and most uncomfortable part of the city, for less 
 than from 35s. to 40s. per week, and the rent paid in advance. A friend 
 of mine hired two small rooms, miserably furnished, not in the business 
 or best part of the city, for which he paid 4 per week. 
 
 NOTE C. 
 
 Extract from the Minutes of the New South Wales District-Meeting. 
 
 " The Brethren cannot conclude this District-Meeting without re- 
 cording the high gratification they have realized, in being favoured 
 during its sitting with the presence and valuable counsels of the Rev. 
 Robert Young, the Deputation from the British Conference. They feel 
 honoured by their Fathers and Brethren in having so gifted a Minister 
 appointed to the office he sustains. They take the opportunity to express 
 their sympathy with Mr. Young in the varied inconveniences and dangers 
 to which he has been exposed, and unite with him in grateful acknowledg- 
 ments for the special providence which has brought him thus far in safety. 
 They pray that he may still abide under the Divine charge and blessing, 
 and that his family in England may be preserved from all danger, and 
 kept in perfect peace, relying upon the continual providential care of 
 our Heavenly Father." 
 
 " The members of the Financial District-Meeting cannot allow its 
 proceedings to terminate without expressing the gratification they feel in 
 being favoured with the presence and judicious counsels of the Rev. 
 Robert Young, the Deputation from the British Conference. They thank 
 God and the Conference for the appointment of one whose rich and 
 evangelical ministration amongst us are productive of such cheering 
 results, and who so well sustains the high anticipations that were raised 
 by the knowledge we previously had of his position and usefulness in the 
 churches at home. 
 
 " We pray that the great object of his mission may be brought to a 
 conclusion that shall afford the richest gratification to his own mind, and 
 lead to the promotion of God's glory in the welfare and extension of the 
 churches in this part of the world. We would also record our grateful 
 acknowledgment to the Parent Society for the many benefits conferred 
 upon us by their paternal superintendence, and for the expression of con- 
 fidence they now so obviously repose in us, in committing to us the 
 management of our own affairs."
 
 444 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 NOTE D. 
 
 IMPORTS AND EXPORTS OF NEW SOUTH WALES. 
 Imports in 1850, 1,334,413; in 1851, 1,563,931 ; in 1852, 1,900,436. 
 Exports in 1850, 1,357,784 ; in 1851, 1,796,912 ; in 1852, 4,604,034. 
 The revenue for the year ending Decemher 31st, 1852, was as follows ; 
 
 General Revenue 523,991 11 10 
 
 Territorial ditto 90,595 2 3 
 
 Goldditto 62,307 9 5 
 
 Church and School Fund 5,24218 1 
 
 Total 682,137 1 7 
 
 The Expenditure of the year was 600,322 2 
 
 NOTE E. 
 
 Memorandum of Minutes passed at a Leaders' Meeting held at Auck- 
 land, New Zealand, September 23d, 1853, 
 
 The REV. T. BUDDLE IN THE CHAIR. 
 
 Resolved, " 1. That the cordial Thanks of the Meeting are due, and are 
 hereby presented, to the Wesleyan Missionary Committee, for the Deputa- 
 tion sent to visit the Wesleyan churches in these islands. The Meeting 
 would thankfully recognise the guiding hand of the Divine Head of the 
 Church in the selection of the Rev. Robert Young for this important 
 service ; the eminent gifts and graces of that honoured servant of Christ 
 have been found profitable in all respects, and his name will be gratefully 
 remembered in the future history of the rising Wesleyan churches in 
 New Zealand." 
 
 Resolved, " 2. That the Deputation be respectfully requested to assure 
 the Missionary Committee and Conference, that in the trials they have 
 been called upon to endure in defence of the great principles of Methodism, 
 the churches in this land have sympathized with them ; and this Meeting 
 rejoices in the conviction that the Wesleyan churches which have been 
 raised in New Zealand, by the blessing of God upon the labours of the 
 Missionaries, are firm in their attachment to the doctrines and discipline 
 of Methodism, and earnest in their wish that its agencies may be 
 multiplied till the earth is full of the knowledge of God." 
 
 Resolved, " 3. That the Deputation be farther requested to convey to 
 the Missionary Committee the greatful acknowledgments of the Meeting 
 for the liberal aid they have given to the Circuit in the support 
 and appointment of Ministers to labour in the word and doctrine ; and to 
 express the gratification it feels in the prospect of the Circuit being able 
 to support its own Ministers, which pleasing duty it now most cheerfully 
 undertakes." 
 
 "THOS. BUDDLE, Chairman. 
 " W. HUGHES, Secretary."
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 445 
 
 NOTE F. 
 
 Skeleton of a Sermon by Shadrach Mumui, Chief Judge of Tonga. 
 
 Acts, 17th chap., 31st verse. 
 
 This is Paul's discourse to the people of Athens. He makes known to 
 them the command of God (30th verse) thus, " And the times of this 
 ignorance," &c. " Because he hath appointed," &c. 
 I. Direct attention to THE DAY OF JUDGMENT. 
 
 Thus saith the text, " He hath appointed a day, in the which He will 
 judge the world." 
 
 1. The day of judgment will be a great day, and a great thing will be 
 the judgment. 
 
 2. It will be a righteous judgment. " In righteousness." He will be no 
 respecter of persons. 
 
 3. It is an appointed day. We cannot tell when it will take place j but it 
 is known to God, for He hath appointed it. 
 
 II. Direct attention to THE " MAN " WHOM HE HATH APPOINTED 
 AS JUDGE. 
 
 It is true the text saith, "the man;" but know ye that He is also 
 " Christ the Lord." 
 
 1. God the Father ordained Jesus as the Saviour, and as the Judge of 
 our race from the beginning. 
 
 2. He will judge the "world," all mankind. And none will answer for 
 another : " We must every one give an account of himself to God." 
 
 3. He will judge them (men) according to their works, by the evidence 
 of their works, which He knows. He is infinite in wisdom, and knows 
 everything. 
 
 III. The ASSURANCE God has given of the CERTAINTY OF THE JUDG- 
 MENT, by raising Jesus from the dead. 
 
 1. Hence it is absolutely necessary that we believe in Jesus ; that all 
 people believe, Jews and Gentiles: since He will descend in the day of 
 judgment, in His own glory, and the glory of His Father. The dead, all 
 the dead, will hear His voice ; and then escape will be impossible. 
 
 2. He will descend to distribute to every man that eternal portion which 
 each has chosen in this world. 
 
 He once descended to instruct us, as our Teacher ; but He is also our 
 King, as well as our Prophet and Priest 
 
 He has given us His word and His Ministers to guide us in the way of 
 salvation ; so that His last judgment of us will be holy and just in the 
 last great day. 
 
 3. That day will be the end of time, to us the beginning of eternity ; 
 and all peoples will be arraigned before Jesus. He will give up the wicked 
 to eternal punishment, but the holy will congregate with Jesus in the life 
 that is eternal. 
 
 We are taught thus much about the day of judgment, that we may 
 prepare for it 
 
 A true and literal translation, R. AMOS. 
 Nukualofa, October 27th, 1853.
 
 446 THE SOUTHERN WOELD. 
 
 NOTE G. 
 
 THE LAWS OP THE KINGDOMS OF TONGA, HAABAI, AND VAVAU. 
 
 I. The Law referring to the King. 
 
 1. The King, being the root of all government in the land, it is for him 
 to appoint those who shall govern in his land. 
 
 2. Whatever the King may wish done in his land, it is with him to 
 command the assemblage of his Chiefs, to consult with him thereon. 
 
 3. Whatever is written in these laws, no Chief is at liberty to act in 
 opposition, but to obey them together with his people. 
 
 4. The King is the Chief Judge; and anything the Judges may not be 
 able to decide upon, shall be referred to the King, and whatever his 
 decision may be, it shall be final. 
 
 II. The Law concerning Taxes. 
 
 Whatever the King deems proper, shall be done by the people for the 
 King. 
 
 III. The Law referring to the Judges. 
 
 1. It is the province of the King to appoint all the Judges in his 
 kingdom. 
 
 2. This is the office of the Judges: If any one or more be charged with 
 having committed a crime, it is the business of the Judges, when such are 
 brought up for trial, to hear the person by whom the charge is made, as 
 also the statement of the prisoner. The trial being over, and his guilt 
 proved, the Judge shall then pronounce sentence, according to what is 
 written in these Laws. 
 
 3. The remuneration which the Judges and Officers shall have made 
 to them by the King, is the distribution of the convicted persons amongst 
 them, to labour for them at their respective places. 
 
 A brief allusion to the business of the Judges. 
 
 1. There shall be no respect of persons with the Judges in their trial of 
 offenders. Though the offender be a Chief, or next in rank, he shall be 
 tried according to these Laws; it being unjust to differ between the trial 
 of a Chief and that of a common man. 
 
 2. On no account for the Judges to receive food or payment from those 
 about to be tried: should any one so receive, and it be discovered, he shall 
 be deposed from his office, having acted unjustly. 
 
 *** 
 
 4. The day of trial arrived, and the Judges seated, the prisoner, com- 
 plainants, and witnesses, shall be brought before them ; and the Judge then 
 state the crime with whichjhe prisoner is charged, and about to be tried for. 
 
 5. The Judge shall then inquire of the accused, whether the charge 
 against him be true or not ; and if he admits its truth, the Judge shall at 
 once pronounce sentence ; but if he denies it, the Judge shall order the 
 witnesses to state what they know, the accused being at liberty, if he can,
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 447 
 
 to produce witnesses to prove his innocency of the crime of which he is 
 charged. 
 
 6. Should the accused wish to question the 'witnesses on anything they 
 may state, he is not at liberty to address them, but make known his 
 inquiry to the Judge, and for the Judge to put his question to the wit- 
 nesses, that on no account there be either talking or quarrelling in the 
 presence of the Judges; and if any one breaks this law, it is with the 
 Officers present in court to put a stop to it. 
 
 7. And with regard to any serious crime, such as murder, incendiarism, 
 the burning a canoe, or personal assault, or the like, when the Judges 
 shall have tried the case, and they are of one opinion as to the punishment 
 to be inflicted, not for it to be enforced immediately, but for the Judges 
 and King to confer; and should the King deem it proper to lessen the 
 punishment, well, but not for him to increase it. 
 
 IV. The Law referring to Witnesses. 
 
 If any one accuse another, or any one confirms it, but on trial it is 
 afterwards found that both the accuser and witnesses have lied, the 
 punishment which would have been inflicted on the accused, the Judge 
 shall order to be enforced against the accuser and false witness ; but when 
 any one works unjustly through a false accuser and a false witness, the 
 Judges shall order the false witness to pay him who has laboured con- 
 trary to justice, according to his amount of work done for the Governing 
 Chief, and punish the false witness according to the punishment 
 unjustly inflicted on the accused. 
 
 V. The Law of the Chiefs and those who govern. 
 
 1. The Chiefs to whom these Laws refer are those whom the King 
 has appointed to govern portions of the land, and their people. 
 
 2. It is with those Chiefs only to harangue and govern their people, 
 and it is not admissible for any other to order or govern those people. 
 
 3. And any one, not being a Chief of high rank, who shall break this 
 law, shall be tried for the same, and be ordered to pay to such persons 
 according to the work they have been made unlawfully to do for him. 
 
 4. This is the labour which the Governing Chiefs shall lawfully 
 demand from their people yearly, even to the extent they may think 
 proper; and such Chief shall pay strict attention in seeing the King's 
 work properly executed, but in case of his negligence his people shall 
 do the less for him. 
 
 VI. The Law referring to Officers. 
 
 1. On the perpetration of a crime being made known to the Judges, it 
 is the province of the Officers to take care and bring the offender to the 
 place of trial on the day appointed. 
 
 2. On the accused being brought before the Judges, it is for them to 
 prevent confusion and quarrelling between the persons on trial and the 
 witnesses ; and should any speak loud, or shout, it is for them to put a 
 stop to it, and demand silence. 
 
 3. The trial of offenders being over, and they being condemned to pay
 
 448 THE SOUTHERN WOKLD. 
 
 or work, it is for the Officers to see that their payment is brought on the 
 appointed day, and to see that the work of the offenders is performed 
 in a proper and correct manner. 
 
 4. It is with the King to remunerate the Officers according to their 
 labours. 
 
 5. It is the duty of the Governing Chief of the land or place to bring 
 the offender to the place of trial. 
 
 VII. The Law referring to Man and Wife. 
 
 1. Marriage is a covenant between man and woman, that they shall be 
 one, and their property one, until the termination of the existence of one 
 of them. 
 
 2. Those who are eligible to marry must be 16 years of age, and no 
 one who is less than 16 can be married. 
 
 3. No man can have two wives, no woman two husbands at once, but 
 each to live with his or her lawful partner : should this law be broken, 
 the parties shall be judged, and work as for committal of adultery. 
 
 4. Another thing forbidden is, the improper interference of any one to 
 promote or stop a marriage. Where the parties are of one mind to marry, 
 they shall not be prevented, unless there be a just and sufficient cause : 
 should this law be broken, the punishment to be inflicted shall be with 
 the Judge. 
 
 5. When a man and woman marry, their parents shall no longer govern 
 them; they shall act as they like, and no relative shall forcibly influence 
 them : should they, it is with the Judge what punishment to inflict 
 
 6. From the present evil and impoverishing system at marriages, what- 
 ever the friends may think proper to present to either the man or woman 
 about to be married, it shall be his or hers, and on no account be again 
 distributed. 
 
 7. Let all men know that it is just to labour and provide food for their 
 families, and in case of their voyaging, to leave food for them ; and who- 
 soever shall neglect to keep this law, the Judge shall inflict punishment 
 to the extent he may think proper. 
 
 8. In reference to man and wife separating, this is the law : Nothing 
 can justify their separation but the crime of adultery committed by either 
 party. And if any man cast away his wife, or any woman her husband, 
 save for that crime, the Judge shall order the offending to support the 
 offended party, and on refusal, the man or woman offending shall labour 
 until such time as he or she shall be. willing to live together again. 
 
 In case of separation, these things are to be regarded : 
 
 (1.) The thing which makes it lawful for a man and wife to separate. 
 
 (2.) But the thing which is right and commendable is, to forgive, and 
 live together again ; and on no account, after so doing, ever more to refer 
 to it 
 
 (3.) In case of either party doing wrong, and the other takes no notice 
 of it at the time, but they continue to live together; at any future time, 
 when the mind of the injured party may be pained towards the other, he 
 or she shall not then be at liberty to refer to it
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. . 449 
 
 (4.) Let all know that the separating of man and wife is a difficult 
 matter. Since the marriage contract is a command of God, the Minister 
 must first marry them ; but, in case of trial, and the crime proved, then the 
 Minister must pronounce them separated, in the large Chapel, before all the 
 people, even as their marriage was performed. Then the writing of 
 divorce shall be given to the innocent party. 
 
 (5.) All parties who have separated, but not according to this law as 
 here written, shall be considered as man and wife; and it shall not be 
 lawful for either again to marry whilst both are still living. 
 
 (6.) Where both parties do wrong, and it is their minds to separate, they 
 may separate ; but it shall not be lawful for either of them to marry until 
 one of them become deceased. 
 
 VIII. The Law referring to Adultery. 
 
 When a man or woman shall be tried for adultery, and be found guilty, 
 if the man has transgressed, he shall pay to the injured man, with whose 
 wife he has sinned, three large hogs and sixty yams, and afterwards work 
 three months ; and where the woman sins, the payment shall be the same 
 as in the other case. 
 
 IX. T)ie Law referring to Fornication. 
 
 When a case of fornication is tried, and proved, the guilty man shall 
 work for two months, as also the guilty woman. Where the crime is 
 repeated, the parties shall work three months, and so on. 
 
 X. The Law referring to Illegitimate Children. 
 
 Let all persons know it shall not be just for a relative to take forcibly a 
 bastard child from its mother, but by her consent only ; and if any one 
 break this law, the Judge shall order the child to be restored. 
 
 XI. The Law referring to Dances, and other Heathen Customs. 
 
 Let all people know that Dancing is strictly forbidden, as well as all 
 Heathen Customs : and if any are found practising such, they shall be 
 tried, and, on being proved guilty, work one month ; and, in case of a 
 repetition, two mouths. 
 
 XII. The Law referring to the Sabbath-day. 
 
 The breaking of the Sabbath is a great sin in the sight of God. Work 
 which cannot be dispensed with, such as preparing food for a sick person, 
 may be done, or any unforeseen accident occurring ; but other works, such 
 as house-building, making canoes, gardening, seeking fish, journeying to 
 a distance, and assembling together for wicked purposes, are all forbidden. 
 Any person found guilty shall work one month, and on repetition of the 
 crime, two months. 
 
 XIII. The Law referring to taking anything forcibly. 
 
 Let all persons know, that taking anything forcibly, or on the score of 
 relationship, is strictly forbidden. If any one takes that which is the pro- 
 perty of another without his (the owner's) consent, the Judges shall repri- 
 mand him, and he shall bring back that which he took ; and in case of his
 
 450 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 repeating the act, he shall pay four times the value of the article he has 
 taken by force; or, on the score of relationship, twice the value of the 
 thing taken to the owner, and twice its value to the King. 
 
 XIV. The Law referring to Fighting, Quarrelling, and things very 
 disorderly. 
 
 Should any persons fight, quarrel, or create any disturbance, they shall 
 work three weeks; and if all concerned be equally bad, their punishment 
 shall be the same. 
 
 XV. The Law referring to Murder. 
 
 Persons committing murder, from an evil mind, shall be hung. 
 
 XVI. The Law referring to Manslaughter. 
 
 The signification of manslaughter is, the killing another accidentally, 
 whilst working, or with the weapon of another, but not designing to kill. 
 Should such a case occur, be tried, and an individual found guilty, but it 
 appear that he had no bad design towards the deceased, or expectation to 
 commit such an act, but that it was purely accidental, he is not guilty, 
 and shall be discharged. But on trial, if it be discovered that they 
 quarrelled, or fought, or fought with clubs, or wrestled, or did anything 
 from which sprang the death of one, but w"hich was not done with an 
 intent to kill, he shall work for the space of two years. 
 
 XVII. The Law on producing Abortion. 
 
 That to which this law refers is a most disgusting crime, and highly 
 deserves punishment. In case any woman should take any medicine, or 
 eat anything, or do anything, in order to produce premature delivery, 
 and she be tried and found guilty, she shall work for the King a whole 
 year. 
 
 XVIII. The Law referring to Incendiarism. 
 
 Should any person set fire to a canoe, or house, with intent to destroy 
 it, and be found guilty, such person shall pay the value of the house, as 
 well as of all the property it contained. 
 
 XIX. The Law referring to Robbery. 
 
 If any one steals a thing from the house or plantation of another, or 
 from elsewhere, the thief shall pay four times the value of the thing stolen, 
 half to the person he robbed, and half to the Government Any one 
 stealing a trifle, whom the Judges think proper to punish, it shall be done 
 unto him as they may see to be right 
 
 XX. The Law referring to the breaking, or committing a nuisance on, a 
 Canoe. 
 
 If any one breaks, or commits a nuisance upon, a canoe, the property 
 of another, and is detected, he shall be tried, and the Judge order him to 
 pay a carpenter for repairing her. The offender shall afterwards work for 
 Government according to the extent of damage he has done to the canoe. 
 This law extends also to a similar injury done to a house.
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 451 
 
 XXI. The Law referring to breaking of Fences. 
 
 Should a man or woman break the fence of any one, the person so 
 transgressing shall repair it, and work for Government according to the 
 extent of the injury committed. If the animal of any one, whether dog, 
 pig, or goat, shall injure a good fence, the property of another, the owner 
 of such animal shall repair the fence ; and should he not afterwards secure 
 the animal in his own premises, but permit it again to injure a fence, he 
 shall forfeit his animal to Government, and Government shall do as it 
 deems proper with it. 
 
 XXII. The Law referring to Pigs, and all destructive animals. 
 
 In case the animal of any one be discovered injuring a plantation, or 
 anything else, it shall first be made known to the owner of such animal 
 that he may put it in a sty, or tie it up. If the same animal should 
 destroy a second time, the Judge shall order the owner of it to pay the 
 person who has sustained the injury, that which may be equivalent to it, 
 and forfeit the destructive animal to Government. But should the fence 
 injured be an old or rotten one, the owner shall pay for the first damage it 
 does, agreeably to this law, but he shall not forfeit his animal to Govern- 
 ment for the first offence. 
 
 XXIII. The Law referring to lost Property. 
 
 1. Anything, the property of a person, being lost, and found by another, 
 the finder knowing the owner, but does not make it known to him, shall 
 be tried as for theft. Anything being found, but the owner unknown, it 
 shall remain with him who finds it. 
 
 2. Payment shall not be demanded by the person who finds the lost 
 property of another. 
 
 XXIV. The Law referring to such persons as shall make known a Crime 
 about to be perpetrated. 
 
 Should any persons agree to commit a great evil, whether two, three, or 
 ten ; and they shall have determined to perpetrate it, but one shall repent 
 and make known what they were going to do, he shall be forgiven ; but 
 all the others concerned shall be punished according to the evil they 
 intended committing, even as though it had been committed. 
 
 XXV. The Law referring to Chiefs and People who may cause any Evil 
 to arise in the Land. 
 
 If such Chiefs or people are discovered, the same shall be banished 
 from the land they live in, into another land ; nor shall they be permitted 
 to return to their land, but it shall be with the Government, their 
 returning or remaining until the end of their lives. 
 
 XXVI. The Law referring to Voyaging. 
 
 Should any Chief, with his crew, voyage and do wrong in any land, on 
 his return they shall be tried, and punished according to the evil com- 
 mitted. It shall not be lawful for persons voyaging to bring away the 
 people of the shores they may visit, unless at the request of the Chief of 
 such land, in that case they may j but if they are brought away without
 
 452 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 
 
 the knowledge of the Chief of that land, such Chief so taking them shall 
 pay ten dollars. 
 
 ****** 
 
 XXIX. The Law referring to the Soil. 
 
 It shall not be lawful for any Chief or people in Tonga, Haabai, or 
 Vavau, to sell a portion of land to strangers (i.e., foreigners) ; it is for- 
 bidden ; and any one who may break this law shall be severely punished. 
 
 XXX. The Law referring to Carpenters. 
 
 Carpenters, working at their trade, shall do their work faithfully, and 
 shall be paid by those for whom they work ; but should those for whom 
 they work not pay them, the Judge shall order them to pay them even 
 more than was originally designed. 
 
 XXXI. The Law referring to waving to Canoes. 
 
 Canoes may be waved to, and should the canoe not come to the beckon, 
 the person in it shall be fined a pig. In particular cases of urgency, 
 Chiefs may wave to a canoe under sail. 
 
 XXXII. The Law referring to the Roads of the Land. 
 
 The Chiefs shall see that the roads are hoed. The payment for not 
 hoeing a road of any length shall be a pig and twenty yams j aud the not 
 hoeing a short path, the fine shall be twenty yams. 
 
 XXXIII. The Law referring to the digging Graves. 
 
 It shall not be lawful for any other than the appointed persons, called 
 " Haatufuga," to dig graves ; but, should there be no Haatufugas where 
 the deceased is to be interred, in that case only others may dig the grave. 
 The relatives of the deceased shall pay to the Haatufuga according to the 
 work done ; and, should the friends of the deceased refuse to do so, the 
 Judges shall compel them to pay the Haatufuga. 
 
 XXXIV. The Law referring to Deceased Persons. 
 
 There shall be five days of cooking food for the Chiefs, four days for 
 the matabule or gentlemen, and three days for the common people ; the 
 "tukuofo," with the "toka" and the " lanu kilikili," shall be given up; 
 and if the friends have not wherewith to inter the dead in, others may 
 furnish what is needful. The thing most becoming is, for the relatives to 
 take care of the afflicted whilst yet alive; to feed, clothe, give drink, &c., 
 and contribute something towards the burial before his decease. The 
 people shall please themselves about the cooking at the burial. If the 
 corpse is buried as to-day, not to cook until to-morrow ; and not for the 
 burial to be as a feast, for it is a visitation of God to that family, and it is 
 right that they should humble themselves before God. 
 
 XXXV. The Law referring to the Tortoise. 
 
 If any man catch a tortoise, and take the first he catches to the 
 Governor, and then take another, the second shall be his, the third he 
 catches shall be the Governor's, the fourth his, and so on.
 
 THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 453 
 
 XXXVI. The Law referring to Men. 
 
 You shall work and persevere in labouring for the support of your 
 family, as well as yourself, and in order to trade and contribute to the 
 cause of God, and the Chief of the land ; and each man shall seek his 
 piece of land to cultivate. Any man not willing to work, he shall neither 
 be fed nor assisted ; all such persons being useless to the land and its 
 inhabitants, and unprofitable to their friends. 
 
 XXX VI I. The Law referring to the Women. 
 
 You must work, women, and persevere in labouring to clothe your 
 husbands and children ; unmarried women shall work to be useful to their 
 relatives and parents. If they do not work, they shall not be fed or 
 assisted ; for our assisting the indolent is supporting that which is an evil. 
 
 XXXVIII. The Law referring to Chiefs, and those who have people under 
 them to govern. 
 
 The duty of such is, to make known these laws to the people they 
 govern, whether they keep them or not ; and, if they do not keep them, 
 exhort them to do so : but, if they still break them, make known their 
 disobedience. 
 
 XXXIX. The Law referring to persons who depreciate the character of 
 others, and to Evil-speakers. 
 
 If there is any one who shall depreciate the character and speak evil of 
 the King, the Chiefs who govern the people, the Judges, or the Mission- 
 aries, and, when tried, are found guilty, the Judge shall order him to be 
 punished according to the evil he has done. 
 
 XL. Ttie Law referring to Foreigners. 
 
 If any foreigner desire to reside in this kingdom, and will act agreeable 
 to the laws of this land, the laws of this land shall protect him ; but if he 
 breaks the laws of this land, he shall be tried as the people of this land ; 
 and if any of the inhabitants injure him in any way, they shall be 
 punished accordingly. Foreigners shall pay yearly according to the 
 portion of land they hold, whether large or small ; and it shall be with 
 the Judges to demand such payment from the foreigners. 
 
 XLI. The Law referring to Clothing. 
 
 The Chiefs, Governors, and people shall clothe. 
 
 XLII. The Law referring to Catching Fish. 
 
 Any persons catching the larger fish shall not do as they please with 
 them, such as the turtle, albicore, bonito, and ulua, &c., but, on obtain- 
 ing one, shall take it to the Chief ; the second he takes shall be his, and 
 so on afterwards. 
 
 X LI 1 1. The Law referring to Disobedience. 
 
 All persons disobedient to the King, or to the Governors of the people, 
 shall be taken to the Judge to be punished, according to the evil they 
 have done. 
 
 Lifuka, Haabai, January, 1852. Translated by G. R. H. MILLER,
 
 454 THE SOUTHERN WOULD. 
 
 These laws are not all that could be desired, but they are, nevertheless, 
 much in advance of those which previously existed; and are interesting, as 
 showing the first attempt at Christian legislation by a people who had but 
 just emerged from a state of barbarism. The King is aware of their 
 defects, and I have reason to believe that they will ere long be revised, and 
 greatly improved. The power of George is great; and although he ex- 
 ercises it with much wisdom and equity, it may be very unsafe to transmit 
 that power to his successor. 
 
 NOTE H. 
 
 Brief outline of King George's Sermon. 
 
 "My people are destroyed for lack of knowledge." Hosea iv. 6. 
 Hosea wrote this book at a time when evil abounded among the people 
 of Israel. You are aware that they were the people of God, but unfaith- 
 ful ; and the root of their evil is in this place apparent, &c. 
 I. Make known the evil of ignorance. 
 
 1. The importance of man, as the creature said to be destroyed by 
 ignorance. Not the least, but the best of God's works. He was not 
 created in the same way as other things. God said, " Let there be light, 
 and there was light," &c. But in the creation of man he said, " Let us 
 make man in our own image, after our likeness." No other being in the 
 world had such a creation, bore such a likeness. 
 
 2. God raised man on high, to govern the things of the world. "Have 
 thou dominion," &c. 
 
 3. The ransom paid for man when he had sinned shows his importance. 
 " You were not redeemed with corruptible things, such as silver and gold, 
 but with the precious blood of Christ," &c. 
 
 4. The ability of man for xisefulness. He has great powers which show 
 his worth as a creature. 
 
 But ignorance, or the " lack of knowledge," destroys man. It destroys 
 his excellency, his happiness, his usefulness, his soul : he perishes " for 
 lack of knowledge." See what knowledge has done for the white man ; 
 See what ignorance has done for the men of this land ! Is it that white 
 men are born more wise ? Is it that they are naturally more capable 
 than others ? No: but they have obtained knowledge; and that know- 
 ledge has come from the Book. This is the principal cause of the difference. 
 
 II. Inquire what should be done to prevent the destruction of the people. 
 
 1. We must pray to God. " If any man lack wisdom, let him ask of 
 God," &c. We receive wisdom, earthly, from man; spiritual, from God. 
 Call upon God, but not anyhow. Pray in the name of Jesus, pray in 
 earnest. God is not poor, but the fountain of blessing ; nor will giving 
 largely, impoverish him. He does not lose knowledge by giving it 
 
 2. We must read the sacred Book. What kingdom was ever wise 
 without reading ? This book is a compass, a chart, telling us where we are 
 and where to go. Can the lotu prosper without reading the Book ? The 
 Bible is the thing to confirm us in religion. What do the people who 
 are wise ? They delight in the law of God, and in that law meditate both
 
 . THE SOUTHERN WORLD. 455 
 
 day and night What else should we do ? Parents, urge your children 
 to attend the school, that they may gain knowledge. Seek to obtain the 
 Book if you have it not. 
 
 I shall not say much. A little more, and then I have done. Some say, 
 " Praise God, the lotu has come to the land!" but if thou believe it not, 
 wilt thou live by it ? Thou mayest deceive me deceive the Missionary, 
 but thou canst not deceive God. Wilt thou not have to stand at the 
 judgment-seat of Christ ? Too late to repent when death seizes thee. 
 Attend at once to what Solomon says : Put away folly, and thou shall 
 live. 
 
 NOTE I. 
 Letter from the Rev. John Wesley, addressed to Mr. Valton. 
 
 " Leeds, June 23d, 1782. 
 
 "MY DEAR BROTHER, I cannot allow Joshua Scolefield to be any 
 longer a Leader. And if he will lead the class whether I will or no, I 
 require you to put him out of our Society. If twenty of his class will 
 leave the Society too, they must. The first loss is the best. Better forty 
 members balost, than our discipline lost. They are no Methodists that 
 will bear no restraint. Explain this at large to the Society. 
 
 " Your affectionate friend and brother, 
 
 " JOHN WESLEY." 
 
 NOTE K. 
 
 A statistical view of the Mission Churches in the Southern World, to 
 be embraced in the Australasian Connexion. 
 
 ' Australia and vo-nr -Pr-'on/iw 
 Van Diemen's 7o ., w ^ y Feejee. Total. 
 
 Land. ^eaiima. sies. 
 
 Missionaries 66 20 11 11 108 
 
 Circuits 33 17 5 4 59 
 
 Chapels 142 104 107 61 414 
 
 Other Preaching-places 145 148 13 31 337 
 
 Catechists 3 5 8 50 66 
 
 Day-school Teachers 44 12 724 368 1,148 
 
 Sunday-school do 887 424 .. .. 1,311 
 
 Local-preachers 303 322 527 56 1,208 
 
 Church members 5,322 4,093 6,834 2,707 18,956 
 
 On trial 231 389 59 384 1,063 
 
 Sabbath-schools 116 188 . . . . 304 
 
 Sabbath-scholars 7,891 5,730 .. .. 13,621 
 
 Day-schools 27 88 185 120 420 
 
 Day-scholars 2,288 2,618 7,279 3,916 16,101 
 
 Members of the Congregations 34,100 10,864 9,800 5,760 60,524 
 
 There is no return in the above from Feejee and the Friendly Islands 
 of any Sunday-schools. There are, however, such schools in those islands, 
 but both teachers and scholars belong to the day-schools, and are 
 reported accordingly.
 
 450 THE SOUTHERN WOELD. 
 
 NOTE L. 
 
 THE whole system of devil-worship received a severe shock in 1850, at 
 Matura, its great stronghold. Mr. Murdock, being at that place on busi- 
 ness, challenged the priests publicly; and offered them a large reward if 
 they would make any of their incantations take effect upon him, by 
 causing him to fall down dead, for these priests profess to be the dis- 
 pensers of death to the living, as well as of life to the dying. They 
 employed the usual methods of preparation, such as sleeping in graves at 
 night, frying eggs in human skulls, &c., and then met Mr. Murdock in the 
 presence of many hundreds of Singhalese. For more than an hour they 
 tried to effect their purpose ; and the people " looked when he should have 
 swollen or fallen down dead suddenly; but, after they had looked a great 
 While, and saw no harm come to him, they changed their minds," if not 
 in reference to him, at least in reference to these charms. A derisive cry 
 was raised throughout the crowd, and the devil-priests have since been 
 hooted through the streets of Matura. 
 
 These priests at Matura endeavoured, however, to maintain the devil's 
 cause. Some said that though they had failed, there were priests who 
 would succeed; whilst others affirmed that Mr. Murdock's being an 
 Englishman was the cause of their failure; but if Singhalese men would 
 submit to be charmed, the charm would take effect. Another challenge was 
 therefore given early in 1851, and four principal places were chosen for the 
 trial, namely, Kandy, Colombo, Galle, and Matura, which, being suffi- 
 ciently central to leave any priest without excuse who should refuse to go 
 from any town or village in the island, to the nearest of these four places, 
 for the purpose of obtaining so large a sum of money. The experiments were 
 to be superintended at Kandy by the Rev. Mr. Vondadelson, Colonial 
 Chaplain, and Mr. Murdock, Secretary of the Singhalese Tract Society ; 
 at Colombo, by the Rev. Mr. Allen, Baptist, and Dr. Elliot, Editor of "The 
 Colombo Observer;" at Galle, by the Rev. J. H. Clark, Presbyterian, and 
 the Rev. George Parsons, Church of England ; and at Matura, by the 
 Rev. Mr. Oudatje, Colonial Chaplain, and the Rev. Joseph Rippon, 
 Wesleyan. At none of the places did any priest appear ; and the people 
 who had come together evidently felt that their religion had suffered an 
 inglorious defeat. The superstition was greatly shaken, and the way for 
 direct Missionary operations was thus prepared. 
 
 London : R. Needham, Printer, Paternoster-Row.
 
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