BJIDEKER'S GUIDE BOOKS. Belgium and Holland, with f) Maps and 13 Pla?is. Second Edition. ISil b s. The Rhine ami Northern Germany, \Nitli 23 Maps and 38 Plans. Kniirth K.lition. ISTO 6 .*r. Eouthern Germany and Austria, imludin;; tlie Eastern Alps, with IW .M;ip< and IT Plans. Secoml E.Htion. hsTl. . . . f) .s. Noithern Italy, as far as Leghorn, Florence, and Ancona, and the Island of Corsica, with (JMaps and 27Plans. Second Edition, i.srt) b s. Central Italy and Rome, with 3 Maps and 8 Plans. Second Kdition. 1S09 5 ». Southern Italy, Sicily, ami ext ursions to the Lipari Islands, Tunis, Sardinia, Malta and Athens, with 6 Maps and 7 Plans Sei-ond Edition. 1869 !') s. Paris and Northern France, with 2 Maps and 19 Plans. Second Edition. 1867 T) s. Switzerland, an all who are interested in scenery of this ch;ir- acler. We do not remember any of like kind and si/e that equal them. "Atuen.soh", December, 1863. THE UBRAfty UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELES BELGIUM AND HOLLAND. ONEY-TABLE. (Comp. p. XIII.) Dutch Belgian 1 English Money. aioney. Money. Prussian Money. 1 t- s. d. Fl. cents. Fr. cent. Thli: Sgr. Pfa- 1 _ _ 12 _ 25 — 6 20 _ 19 _ 11 40 23 75 6 10 18 10 80 22 50 6 _ 17 _ 10 20 21 25 5 20 _ 16 _ 9 60 1 20 5 10 — 15 _ 9 - 1 18 75 5 U 8 40 17 50 4 20 _ 13 _ 7 80 16 25 4 10 — 12 _ 7 20 15 4 — 11 _ 6 60 13 75 3 20 _ 10 6 12 50 3 10 _ 9 _ 5 40 11 25 3 _ 8 _ 4 80 10 2 20 _ — 7 _ 4 20 8 75 2 10 _ — 6 — 3 60 7 50 2 _ _ 5 — 3 6 25 1 20 _ 4 _ 2 40 5 1 10 _ _ 3 _ 1 80 3 75 1 _ — 2 — 1 20 2 50 — 20 _ — 1 8'|2 1 2 45 17 _ 1 7 96 2 _ 16 _ _ 1 _ _ 60 1 25 _ 10 _ 93|4 48 1 8 — _ 9 45 94 _ 7 6 — _ 8 40 _ 83 — 6 8 7 35 73 5 10 — _ 6 30 62 5 — — 5 25 52 _ 4 2 — — 4 20 _ 42 — 3 4 — 3 15 31 2 6 — _ 2 10 21 _ 1 8 — — 1 — 5 — 10 — — 10 RAILWAY MAP SOLLAND AND BELGIUM BELGIUM AND HOLLAND. HANDBOOK FOB TRAVELLERS E. B^DEKER. With 4 Maps and 13 Plans. SECOND EDITION, EEVI6ED. "Go, little book, God send thee good passage, And specially let this be thy prayere Unto them all that thee will read or hear, Where thou art wrong, after their help to call. Thee to correct in any part or all." Chaucer. THE LIBRARY UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNI/? LOS ANGELES STACK ANNEX \G 63/3 /S7I PREFACE. Tlie chief object of the Handbook for Belgium and Holland is to render the traveller as independent as pos- sible of the embarrassing and expensive services of com- missionaires , guides , and other members of the same fra- ternity, to enable him to derive the greatest possible amount of pleasure and instruction from a tour in these interesting countries, and to place him in a position to employ his time, his energies and his finances to the best advantage. The Handbook has been compiled entirely from the Editors personal experience, and he has used every en- deavour to furnish information acceptable to enlightened travellers of every class. The present edition , which cor- responds to the 11th in the German language and the <)th in the French , has been carefully revised and altered in accordance with the most recent time-tables, catalogues, government statistics, etc. ; and the Editor has frequently availed himself of much valuable information afforded by travellers, which he here gratefully acknowledges. It need, however, hardly be remarked that bond jide statements by travellers, founded on their personal observation, are alone acceptable. The Editor especially craves the in- dulgence of his readers if the enumeration of pictures, curiosities in museums, etc. should in any instance be found inaccurate. Whilst it is confidently hoped that this is not at present the case , it must be observed that in some of the public galleries in Belgium the arrangement of the pictures etc. is very frequently changed, with the express object of rendering all but the authorised catalogues use- less. As a general rule , the data afforded by the Hand- book will enable the traveller to dispense with these ex- pensive and often bewildering compilations. The Maps and Plans, on which the utmost care has been bestowed, will prove of material service to the traveller when steering his course through the intricacies of the curious medieval cities of Belgium , or when entangled in the network of laihvays, rivers and canals by which the whole of the Netherlands is overspread. The hotels indicated by asterisks are those which the Editor believes to be the most comfortable and worthy of commendation. The self- laudations of inn -keepers and others of the same class have of course been entirely dis- regarded. The average charges, fees, etc. , although liable to constant fluctuation, are given in order that the traveller may be enabled to form some idea of his probable expen- diture. CONTENTS. Belgium. Page I. Plan of Tour XI 11. Money and Travelling Expenses XIII III. Passports XIV IV. Language XIV V. Fees XVI \J. Railways ~ XVI VII. History of Art XVII VIII. History and Statistics XXV Route. 1. From London to Ostend 1 1. From Ostend to Thourout 6 2. Blankenberg 7 1. Heyst. Lissewege 8 o. r)ruges 9 4. From Bruges (or Ghent) to Courtrai and Tournai . . 23 1. From Liclitervelde to Dunkirk and >^ieupoit .... 23 2. From La Pinte to Oudenaerde 24 3. From Courtrai to Ypern and Poperinghc 27 b. Tournai 26 (). From Bruges to Ghent 31 7. From Ghent to Brussels, to Malines. or to Antwerp . 51 1. From Melle to Braine-le-Corate 52 -8. From London to Brussels via Calais 54 1. The Chateau of Beloeil 5.5 il Brussels 56 1. The Chateau of Laeken 85 10. Battle Field of Waterloo 86 YIII CONTENTS. Route I'age 11. From Brussels to Malines and Antwerp 105 1. From Conticli to Turnhout. Gheel 109 12. Antwerp 110 13. From Antsverp to Kotterdam 13G 1. Middelbursr. Flushinj; 139 2. From^Roozendaal to Goes. Bergen op Zoom .... 141 14. From Antwerp to Aix-la-Chapelle 142 1. From Munsterbilscn to Liege 143 2. From Hasselt to Utrecht 143 15. From I>russels ^to Namur by Braine-]e-Comte and Charleroi 14.3 1. From Manage to Mons 144 2. From Manage to Wavre 144 3. From Charleroi to Vireux 14& 4. From Chatelineau to Givet 146 10. From Brussels to Namur by the High Koad. The Battle- Fields 148 17. From Namur to Dinant and Givet 152 18. From Brussels to Luxembourg and Treve-s .... 155 1. Grotte de la Wamme. Trou de Han 156 19. From Brussels to Liege 160 1. From Louvain to Charleroi . - 1C5 2. From Landen to Aix-la-Chapelle and (iembloux .... 167 20. Liege and Seraing 167 21. The Meuse from Liege to Mastricht 178 1. From JIastiicht to Rotterdam via Venlo 184 22. From Liege to Namur 185 23. From Liege to Aix-la-Chapelle 188 24. Baths of Spa. From Spa to Luxembourg 192 1. Environs of Spa 19^ 25. From Brussels to Paris. A. By Mons, Valenciennes, Douai, Arras, and Amiens 197 1. Malplaquet. Jemappes , 199 2. From Creil to Beauvais 204 B. By Mons, Ilautmont, and St. Quentin 204 CONTENTS. IX Holland. rage I. Plan of Tour and Travelling Expenses 207 II. Money. Passports. Customs-Dues 208 III. Language 209 IV. Railways. Diligences. Canal-boats 210 V. Dutch Peculiarities 211 VI. Dykes. Polders. Dunes 213 VII. History and Statistics 216 Kimte 2G. Rotterdam 222 27. From Rotterdam to tlie Hague 227 2S. The Hague 230 29. Scheveningen 240 30. Leyden 242 1. Katwijk aan Zee 2-19 31. Haarlem 249 1. Bloemendael 255 'J. Zandvoort 25G 3. From Haarlem lo Amsterdam 256 32. Amsterdam 257 1. Excursion to Soestdijk 275 '2. The Locks near Schellingwoude 270 33. Broek 276 34. Zaandam 279 35. From Amsterdam to the Holder. Northern Holland . 281 1. Egraond. Bergen 2S4 2. Medemblik. Enkhvii/.en. Iloorn. Purmeiend. Edam. Mon- nikendam 288 36. From Amsterdam or Rotterdam to Utrecht and Arnheim 288 37. Utrecht 292 1. From Utrecht to Zwolle 297 38. From Arnheim to Cologne. 1. Via Emmerich and Diisseldorf . 297 2. Via Cleve and Crefeld 299 X CONTENTS. Koute Page 39. From Arnheim to Kotterdani. The Rhine and Leek . 301 40. From Nymegen to Rotterdam. The Waal and Maas . 304 41. From Arnheim to Leeuwarden and Groningen . . . 309 1. Nederlandsch Mettray 310 2. From Ziitphen to Salzbergen 310 3. The Chateau of Loo 311 4. The Pauper Colonies of Fredcriksoord, Wilhelniineoord, and Willemsoord 311 5. Wateren. Omnierschans 31 '2 42. From Amsterdam to Ilarlingen and Groningen . . . 315 43. From Groningen to Emden and Rheine 317 Index 320 Maps. 1. General Map of Belgium and Holland, before the title-page. ■2. Map of the Battle-Field of Waterloo, between pp. 86 and ST. 3. Map of the Estuary of the Schelde and Maas, between pp. i;!6 and 137. 4. Map of the Environs of Anis te rdam , between pp. 240, 241. Plans of Towns. Amsterdam, Antwerp, Bruges, Brussels, Ghent, The Hague, Haarlem, Leyden, Liege, Louvain, Ostend, Rot- terdam, Utrecht. Abbreviations used in the Handbook. R. = Room. L. = Light. E. = Breakfast. D. = Dinner. A. ^ Attendance. M. = English mile K. = North. S. = South. E. = East. W. = West. r. = right. 1. = left. hr. = hour. min . = minute KB. Everything particularly worthy of note is indicated by an asteri^ik BELGIUM. I. Plan of Tour. Those who desire to derive instruction as well as pleasure from their tour should frame some definite plan before starting, and should endeavour to employ every hour of their time to the best possible advantage. To assist such travellers in their ob- ject is the aim of the following work, in which everything cal- culated to awaken the interest and elevate the taste is carefully pointed out. Churches are generally open to the public from 6 to 12 o'clock in the morning. M'hen the architecture or the pulpit is the chief object of interest the traveller may dispense with the services of the sacristan. None of the most celebrated pictures, however, can be seen without the aid of that functionary, as they are either covered with curtains, or preserved in the closed chapels. The churches which contain objects worthy of careful and minute inspection should be visited between 12 and 3 or 4 p. m., when there is no divine service. Application for admission must then be made to the sacristan. Picture Galleries and other public Collections are ge- nerally accessible daily from 10 or 11 till 3 or 4 o'clock. The traveller will find the most celebrated paintings and objects of interest enumerated in the Handbook, and may therefore dispense with catalogues. Gratuities, see p. XVI. Belgium is now so completely intersected by a network of rail- ways, that the traveller v>i\\ rarely have occasion to travel by any XII Plan of Tour. BELGIUM. other conveyance. A steamboat-trip on tlie Meuse, the drive to Waterloo, and a few excursions on horseback or on foot in the neighbourhood of Liege, Naniur, Dinant, Spa, etc. should by no means be forgotten ; for Belgium boasts of many beautiful districts, and is rich in liistorical reminiscences. On the whole , however, painting and architecture are the great attractions ; and as a large proportion of the traveller's time will- probably be spent in the cities and larger towns, he is recommended to select the spring or autumn in preference to the summer for his tour. Those who are already acquainted with the towns and their treasures of art, or whose object is retirement and repose, will find many delight- ful spots for spending the summer on the banks of the Meuse, or in the environs of Spa. The following tour , commencing at Ostend and terminating at Antwerp, will serve to convey an idea of the time requisite for a glimpse at the chief attractions of Belgium. Travellers entering Belgium from France, Holland, or Germany, will find no difficulty in framing 'skeleton tours" with the aid of the map. Ostend and Bruges l'J2 day Ghent 1 „ Courtrai, Tournai, Mons 2 „ Charleroi, Xamur 1 „ Valley of Meuse, Dinant l','-.. „ Liege and Seraing 1 „ Mastricht and Pctersberi,' 1 Louvain and Brussels 2 „ Waterloo 1 „ Malines I „ Antwerp 2 ,. 15 days. The linguist, the ethnologist, and indeed every observant tra- veller will not fail to be interested in the marked differences be- tween the various races of which the Belgian nation is compot^ed. The Walloons (of Namur, Liege, Verviers, etc.) are believed to be partially of Celtic extraction; they are remarkable for their enterprising and industrious , and at the same time passionate and excitable character, and their language is a very corrupt pa- tois of French, with traces of Teutonic and Celtic influences. The Flemings, who constitute two-thirds of the population, are a somewhat phlegmatic race of Teutonic origin ; they are pre-emi- nently successful in agriculture and those pursuits in which encr- BELGIUM. Hotels. XIII getic action is less requisite than patient perseverance, and their language is of the Teutonic stock and closely akin to the Dutcli. A third element may perhaps appropriately be termed the French. Political refugees and obnoxious journalists frequently transfer tlie sphere of their labours from Paris to Brussels, whilst a consider- able proportion of the Belgian population in the principal towns now affect French manners and customs, are frequently educated in France , and often entirely ignore their Flemish origin and language. A valuable and interesting work , to which reference is frequently made in the Handbook, is the ^Descriptio totius Belgii by the learned Florentine Guicciardini (d. 1589), who in his capacity of ambassador resided for several years in the Nether- lands. ' Leodlcur)% (Liege)", he says, '■utiiur lingua Gallica, Aqui<- grunum ( Aix-la-Capelle) Cermanica: viri Leodicenses alacres, festivi, tractabiles ; Aquisgranenses melancholici, seven, difficiles. In summa, tantum alteri et mitura et moribus, totaque adeo vitae ratione (lb alter is differunt, quantum GuUi discrepant a Germanise II. Money and Travelling Expenses. Francs and centimes are the Belgian, as well as the Frencli currency: 1 franc, 100 centimes, 8 silbergroschen, 28 S. German kreuzer, 40 Austrian kreuzer, 47 Dutch cents, 20 Amer. cents, and 9^/4 pence are all nearly equivalent (comp. money-table at the beginning of the book). The coins in common circulation are French Napoleons (20 fr.) in gold; 5, 2'/2. 1, V2 and 1/5 fr. pieces in silver; 10, 5, 2, 1 c. in copper; 20, 10, 5 c. in nickel. English and French banknotes and English gold are received at all the principal towns, hotels, railway-stations, etc. at their full value (1 I. = 25 fr.). Belgian notes from 20 to 1000 fr. are current in all parts of Belgium, but do not realise their full value in France or elsewhere. Hotels of the highest class are somewhat expensive at Brus- sels and some of the Belgian watering-places, but in most other parts of the country they will be found considerably cheaper than in England. The average charges may be stated as follows : bed 2— 3fr., breakfast (plain) 1 — IV2 fr., dinner 3— 4 fr., 1/2 bottle Bordeaux IV2 fr., attendance 1 fr. — The charges at hotels of the second class are about one-third lower, and a further saving fo time and money may be effected if the traveller avoid the XIV Passports. BELGIUM. public tables dhote and dine at a restaurant or cafe. — The fees payable at public galleries, churches, etc. amount to 3 — 4 fr. per day, travelling expenses to 8 — 10 fr. , and hotel expenses to 10 — 15 fr., so that the traveller should be prepared for a daily expenditure of 25 — 30 fr. On the other hand the 'voyageur en garron' , the artist, the student, the pedestrian etc. may easily reduce their expenditure to half that sum -without any great diminution of comfort. III. Passports. These documents are now dispensed \vith in Belgium , but they are occasionally useful in proving the travellers identity, obtaining delivery of registered letters , procuring admission to private collections , etc. , especially in the case of a prolonged sojourn. IV. Language. Whilst nearly two-thirds of the population speak Flemish as their mother-tongue, and one-third Walloon, the French language is universally employed by the educated and wealthier classes in their intercourse with strangers and one another. Guicciardini speaks of the dialect of the Walloons as •sermo communiter Gulli- cus ; sed quia Galliam inter atque Germaniam positi , corruptus valde et perabsurdus . The linguist who desires to form some acquaintance with the Walloon language is referred to two excel- lent works published at Liege in 1845: Poesies en patois de Lit ge, precedtes d'une dissertation grammaticale sur ce patois et suivies d'un glossaire par Simonon\ and the '• Dictionnaire etymologique de la langue Wallonne par Ch. Grandgagnage', the latter unfoitu- nately uncompleted. The following popular rhymes from the 'Al- manack par maltre Matthieu Laensbergh' will serve as a specimen of the language : J a mi a r }• : Jl ijna pu d'brouli ki iTpouss'ir. I II a plus de brouillard que de pous- I siere. February : Li chid' sop' so on vi stoumak, i La chaude scope sur un vieil estomac, ,S'o n'freut pai, on bon spet cazak, ! Dans un pays froid une bonne epaisse ' casaque yi fr'i nin pu d'bin ki Vsolo, i Ne ferait pas plus de bien que le soleil ^j volef liir on po sor no. i S'il voulait luire un peu sur nous. BELGIUM. Language. XV April: C'tst Vuseg dis't-on iT s'aUrapt C'est I'usage, dit-on, de s"attraper Loitk et I'auV, li pruini d'avri; L"un et Tautre le premier d'avril : Si c'n'esteu ko qu'po s'dicerti, Si ce nV'tait que pour se divertir, Quon ioirah' in' got' a s'dupi ! Qu'on cherchat un peu a se duper ! Mais c'n'est pu po rir' quon s'surprin, Mais ce n'est plus pour rire qu'on se surprend, Ltiiion si on ze reS^-'/ ^/ lu Hill •5 :£ i = i>i ee a 3 :; 1. From London to Ostend. There are two direct routes from London to Ostend: 1. Via Dover twice daiiy in 8'[2— 10 hrs. ; 2. By Gen. Steam ^av. Co.'s steamers, twice weekly, in 10—14 hrs. — The former route is recommended to those whose time is limited ; the latter is pleasant in favourable weather, and conside- rably less expensive. — Comp. R. 8. Hotels at Ostend. On the Beach: Hotel de TOcean (Pi. a), con- nected with the Cercle des Bains (see below); Hotel de La Plage (PI. b), both large establishments of the first class, situated S. \V. of the town. Rooms may also be procured at the 'Pavilions' du Phare. Rojal, des Dunes, du Bhin, etc. (see below). In the Town: *H6tel Royal de Prusse (PI. c), comfortably fitted up. view of the sea from the upper stories, D. 4 fr. ; 'Hotel Mertian (PI. d), R. from 2ii2, L. and A. P.j, D. 3 fr. ; ^'Hotel Fontaine (PI. e), near the Digue, spacious dining-room containing several old Dutch pictures of some merit. 'Hotel de France (PI. f). Rue St. >'icolas , and Hotel d'Allemagne (PI. g, near the railway stat.), both less expensive than the above. - Hotel Marion (PI. h). Rue de rEglise, D. 21-2 fr. ; Hotel de Flandre (PI. i); 'Liond'Or (PI. k), an old-fashioned Belgian inn. R. 2ii2, D. 2>;2. B, 1, pension 7 fr. : Hotel du Grand Cafe (PI. 1), good cuisine; the two latter on the Parade. 'Hotel St. Denis (PI. m), Rue de la Chapelle, moderate, pension SV'a fr. — Ship Hotel (PI. n). on the quay; Couronne (PI. o), on the harbour, opposite the station ; St. Pierre (PI. p). Rue du Lait Battu : Hotel de TAgneau (PI. q) ; these four are inexpensive and tolerably comfortable. — Apartments may also be obtained at the restaurants in the town and on the Digue. High rents are demanded for the latter during the season. Restaurants in the Toicn: Freres Provencaux, Rue de Flandre, and 'Rocher de Cancale, Rue Louise, D. in both at 5 p. m., 4 fr. ; Cour Impe'riale; Grand Restaurant de Paris, good cuisine, D. 3 fr., good vin ordinaire 3 fr. per bottle: Cadran Bleu. — Medoc, the cheapest table wine, costs 1' 2 — 2 fr. per bottle. The Cursaal on the Digue, a fanciful structure in the Moorish style, open to subscribers only (per week IS, month 36 fr. ; 2 pers. 50, 3 pers. 60 fr. per month) is the principal resort of the fashionable world during Baedekkb's Belgium and Holland. 2nd Edit. \ 2 Route 1. OSTEND. Sailing Boats. the bathing season. Balls and concerts alternately every evening at 8. 30. The establishment comprises a good cafe-restaurant, with Belgian, French, and other newspapers. — The Cercle des Bains, another favourite rendezvous , is elegantly fitted up , and contains a few sleeping apartments at high charges. 'Soirees Dansantes' daily. — Farther along the beach, the Pavilion des Dunes (or Hotel Baer-block), with a good restaurant. Still more distant^: the "Pavilion du Rhin, near the 'Paradis' (p. 4), with extensive oyster and Jobster 'park'; D. at 2 and 5 p. m. 3 fr., R. 5—6 fr. per day, A. 1 fr. per day extra , unless expressly included in the charge for rooms. — At the opposite (N.) end of the Digue, the "Pavilion Royal, an excellent, but expensive restaurant, with a few rooms at 5—20 fr. per day. Adjoining it , the Pavilion duPhare, D. 2';2, R. 2—5 fr. — It is customary at all these establishments to give a few sous to the waiter at each repast. Cafes etc. in the Town. The *Societe Litteraire (PI. 5), to which strangers are introduced by a member (first 10 days gratis, afterwards 3 fr. per month), contains an excellent restaurant, reading-room, etc. Ball-room on the upper floor , where several balls take place weekly during the sum- mer (3 fr. for non-subscribers). Cafe duKord, Rue de Flandre, where rooms may also be engaged. — Jardin Leopold, a public garden near the W. gate of the town, where concerts and other entertainments are fre- quently given. Private Apartments are let at the beginning or towards the close of the season (June 1st to Oct. 15th) for 10 fr. and upwards per week, but in August rents are everj-where nearly doubled. The contract should be com- mitted to writing if the hirer purpose making a prolonged stay. The usual charge for a plain breakfast is 75 c, for attendance 25 c. per day. French is often imperfectly understood by the Flemish servants. — Filtered rain- water is at present used at Ostend for domestic purposes, but an Artesian well has been commenced. Seltzer water will be found more wholesome and agreeable for drinking. — Wine at 1 fr. and upwards per bottle may be purchased of Van der Mersch , in the Parade, or Van der Heyden, Rue St. Sebastien. Baths (p. 4). Machine and towels 75 c. — Invalids and persons un- accustomed to sea-bathing may procure the services of a ^baigneur' or ^baigneuse" for 50 c. more. Warm Salt -Water Baths at Tratsaerd, Rue St. Sebastien 26, with 'douche de force' 2, per doz. 12 fr. ; shower-bath 5, per doz. 50 fr. Cabs (Vigilantes) 1 fr. per drive in the town, V\> fr. in the suburbs. Donkeys for hire at the S. end of the Digue, 1 fr. per hour. Sailing Boats with 2 men for 1—2 hrs. 6 fr., larger boats with 4 men 12 fr. — Tliere is no fixed charge for crossing the harbour to visit the new lighthouse. For the trip there and back 1 fr. is an ample remuneration, but an agreement must be made beforehand. — Guns may be hired for shooting sea -fowl, which sometimes aftbrd tolerable sport. — The Courier des Bains, which is published once weekly (3 fr. for the whole season) is furnished gratis to the subscribers to the Cursaal. A Liste des Etrangers is also published. New Church. OSTEND. 1. Route. 3 Physicians. Dr. Verhaeghe, Drt Jansens, Dr. de Ceunyci, etc.; fees 5 fr, or upwards per consultation. English Church at the E. extremity of the Rue Longue. Ostend (17,159 inhab.), since the separation (in 1830) of Belgium from Holland has been the second seaport of Belgium, and owes much of its importance to the great passenger traffic between London and the continent, of which this otherwise in- significant place may be termed one of the principal keys, A number of sandbanks in front of the harbour present a serious impediment to the entrance of large vessels; but this defect has been remedied to some extent by the construction of a large dock (Bassin de Chasse) , closed by gates, whence the water , confined at the level of high tide , is suffered to escape suddenly at low tide, thus tending to deepen the channel. The present harbour, the basin, and the docks of Slykens (p. 6) were constructed during the reign of Joseph II. The town successfully resisted one of the most remarkable sieges on record, which lasted from 1601 to 1604, and it was only surrendered to the Spanish general Spinola in consequence of orders received from the States General. In the Spanish "War of Succession, after the Battle of Hochstadt, Ostend was occupied by the Allies under Marlborough, An East India commercial com- pany was established here in 1718, and confirmed in its privileges by Charles VI. , but was soon dissolved in consequence of diffe- rences with England and Holland. In 1745 Louis XT. took the fortress after a siege of 18 days, but was compelled to restore it to Austria by the Peace of Aix-la-Chapelle. In 1794 it was again taken by the French, to whom it belonged until 1814. It next belonged to the kingdom of the Netherlands till 1830, when it finally became Belgian in consequence of the revolution. The fortifications have been demolished and converted into promenades since 1865. None of the public buildings are worthy of note. The New Church contains a monument to Queen Louise (p. 85). who died here in 1850. (The sacristan lives at No. 18, Place St. Joseph: fee 1/2— 1 fr- for 1 pers., 1—3 fr. for a party.) On the N. side of the church rises a 'Mt. of Olives' (p. 121) of considerable height: at the summit is the crucified Saviour with the holy 1* 4 Boute 1. OSTEND. Digue. women ; beneath are the tormented souls [in purgatory behind a grating , -with the inscription : 'Helpt ons door uwe gebeden en goede werken (i. e. help us through your prayers and good works). Ostend is a very favourite Watering Place, patronised principally by Germans, of whom 15,000 visit it annually. The only promenade worthy of mention is the * Digue, a stone dyke or bulwark 3/^ M. in length, 5 — 8 yds. wide and 30 ft. in height, sheltering the town from the sea on the N.W. side. It forms a prolongation of the Rue de la Chapelle, with which it is con- nected by a new bridge. The scene presented by this promenade and its environs during the height of the season will not fail to strike the English traveller who witnesses it for the first time as novel and amusing. The fact that a very large proportion of the visitors have now for the first time in their lives beheld the open sea, and are rejoicing in its health -restoring breezes and its ever-varying aspect, sufficiently accounts for the popularity of a place which affords few other attractions. The traveller therefore, by spending an hour or so on the Digue on a warm summer e\ening, will be enabled at a glance to see the most characteristic phase of Ostend life. The Bathing Places adjoin the Digue, both on the N.E. and the S.W. side. Most of the visitors bathe in the morning; the bathing machines are 600 in number. Tickets are purchased at one of the offices, and the bathers furnished with towels and a bathing costume. (Those who make a prolonged stay for the purpose of bathing should purchase the indispensable articles for their private use.) There is here, as at French watering-places, no separation of the sexes; but the strictest propriety is ob- served. Ladies may avoid publicity by bathing at a very early hour , whilst gentlemen who prefer bathing ^sans costume'' should go to the ^Paradis% where, as its name is intended to indicate, they are permitted to dispense with a 'costume'. This privileged spot is at the end of the Digue, towards the S.W. , and is- farthest removed from the impurities of the harbour. The *Liglithou8e, 190 ft. in height, is an object of interest to visitors, and should be inspected by those who have never seen the interior of such a structure. The lantern (fee 1/2 ^r.) contains a series of prisms, resembling beehives in shape, and Oyster Parks. OSTEND. I. Route. 5 reflectors of copper plated witli platina . by which arrangement the light is said to be rendered one thousand times more in- tense, and to be visible at a distance of 45 M. The top com- mands an extensive view in clear weather. Meuport. Furnes, and even Dunkirk are seen towards the S.W.. the Cursaal of Blan- kenberg to the N.E. . and the towers of Bruges to the S. The gates of the Bassin de Chasse are passed on the way to the lighthouse. The Oyster Parks f Huitrieres ) are extensive reservoirs on the N.E. and S.W. sides of the Digue (e. g. one at, another out- side the Bruges Gate), where vast quantities of oysters are stored throughout the greater part of the year. They are imported from the English coast, and here kept in a sound and healthy con- dition by daily supplies of clarified sea-water. Their price varies from 5 to 8 fr. per hundred. Abundant and fresh supplies may therefore always be procured , except in the height of summer, when they are out of season. Lobsters, brought chiefly from Norway, are kept in separate receptacles in the huitrieres. They realise from 2 to 6 fr. each according to circumstances. — Fish is generally plentiful, especially in summer when transport is difficult. A turbot of large size may often be purchased for 10—15 fr. ; soles, cod, haddocks, mackarel. and skate are of course less expensive. Most of these fish are caught near Blankenberg (p. 8) , and sold by public auction between 7 and 9 a. m. in the fish-market of Ostend, under the supervision of the municipal authorities. The principal sales take place on fast-days (Wed. and Frid.). The official fixes a high price in sous for each lot, and then gradually descends, until a bidder calls out ^myn' and thus be- ■comes the purchaser. The great advantage of this 'Dutch auction' is that a single bid settles the matter, and much con- fusion is thus avoided. Most of the purchasers are women, who afterwards proceed to retail the fish in the market. The Flemish language alone is employed on these occasions, and the spectator has an excellent opportunity of witnessing a characteristic scene ■of Belgian life. The luminous appearance of the sea , especially on sultry 5ummer nights, is a never-failing source of interest to many of the visitors. It is best observed when the lock-gates of the Bassin 6 Route 1. SLYKENS. de Chasse (p. 3) are opened at low tide , provided of course the hour be suitable. This spectacle is one which really merits the travellers attention. Various ecclesiastical and popular Festivals are celebrated at Ostend duting the months of July and August. In these the Belgian archers , of whom there are numerous societies , always act a prominent part. The Ostend archery-ground is at the Bru- ges Gate. Those who are interested in this graceful exercise wilL often be struck by the strength and skill displayed by some of the amateurs of Ostend. The Piers ('estacades', or stoccades, so called from the '■esiaches' or piles), of which the western is 'o M. in length, the other about 100 yds. longer, afford an entertaining promenade, especially on the departure or arrival of the steamers. Slykens, l^/o ^I- E. of Ostend, a village on the road to Bruges, formerly contained a valuable l^atural Hist. Collection, the pro- perty of M. Paret, whose heirs are now gradually disposing of it to private purchasers. A pleasant walk along the beach may be taken to Mariakerk^ a village about 3 M. to the S.W., separated from the sea by lofty sandbanks. Halfway to it is situated Fort Wellington, which, formerly protected the entrance to the harbour on this side,, whilst the N.E. side |is commanded by Fort Napoleon. About 3 M. beyond Mariakerk lies Middelkerk, the starting-point of the submarine telegraph-cable to the English coast. There is nothing, to mark the spot except the watchman's hut on the sand-hill. Near Plasschendael, the first railway -station on the line to- Bruges, is situated Oudenburg, an oasis of productive gardens- in the midst of a sandy and sterile district, and the chief source from which Ostend is supplied with fruit and vegetables. Ouden- burg is said once to have been a flourishing commercial town, and to have been destroyed by Attila about the middle of the 5th cent. From Ostend to Thourout branch line in ^f^ hr., fares 2 fr., 1 fr. 50, 95 c. Several unimportant stations. Thourout see p. 23: to Nieuport see p. 24 i to Courtrai see p. 25. 2. Blankenberg. B^ilway to Bruges in 25 min. , thence to Blankenberg (and Heyst) in •l'.: hr. ; fares by ordinary trains 3 fr., 2 fr. 20, 1 fr. 50 c. — Outside seats pleasant in fine weather. Small station at Lisseiceghe, see p. 9. Hotels. On the Beach: Grand Hotel des Families, near the old lighthouse, a spacious new establishment built by a company, containing upwards of 200 apartments, and surrounded by its own grounds, where a band occasionally plays; R. towards the sea 2—8 fr. , towards the land less expensive, pension from 5 fr.. A. ',2 fr. — Hotel du Cursaal (see be- 'ow), with 120 rooms. — Hotel Godderis, table d'hote at 1 and 5 o'clock 2' 2 fr., pension 7— 15 fr. —Hotel Victoria Pavilion du Phare, farther W., on the quay. — Rocher de Cancale, near the Hotel dos Fa- milies. — In the Toicn: 'Hotel d'Hondt, moderate, pension S'jz fr. ; *Dr. Verhaegen, comfortable, pension 7 fr. ; Marchand"s \Maison des Bains, moderate, pension 7 fr. •, Hotel de France, pension V\-i fr. — Hotel duChemindeFer, Van Muller (with warm baths) , Lion d'Or, all in the Rue de TEglise. Hotel de Bruges. Ecstaurants. On the Beach: Hotel Godderis (see above); Cur- saal, R. 5—20 fr.. an elegant and comfortable establishment, but noisy, it comprises a cafe and a concert-room; D. at 1. 30 and 5, 2'j2— 3 fr. — Pa- vilion des Bains, cafe, with table d'hote. — In the Toicn: Hotel du Rhin. where apartments may also be obtained at moderate charges. Private Apartments. On the Beach: Maison Segaert, with a large balcony: Maison Gobart, near the old lighthouse, rooms towards the sea with balcoaiesi— 15 fr., A. ijs fr. ; Succursale deDr. Verhaegen, pension with room towards the sea IO1J2 fr. , comfortable. There are also three other houses of the same description at the W. end of the beach. — In the Toicn : Private apartments abound in almost every street , average charge 2—4 fr. per day, A. 25 c. ; in the height of the season, however, they are sometimes all engaged. Those who have not previoiisly written for rooms should arrive at Blankenberg early in the day, in order that they may be able to return to Bruges the same evening in case of disap- pointment. Physicians: Dr. Verhaegen and Z»r. can Muller. Sathing Machines 60 c. ; the attendants expect a trifling fee from re- gular bathers. — Tents^ for protection against sun and wind (not against rain), may be hired on the beach for 50 — 75 c. per day. — Bathing Dresses may be purchased in the town for 5—8 fr. Boats. For a row of 1—2 hrs. 5 fr. are demanded; for a party 1 fr. each. 'La Piage\ published on Thursd. and Sund., and 'La Vigie de la C6te\ published on Sund. only , are two journals containing a list of the visitors, notices of the tide, etc. 8 Route 2. BLANKENBERG. Warm Baths in the Grand Hotel des Families (see above), at Dr. Mul- ler's, Rue de I'Eglise, and at P. van Wulpen de Langhe^s , Bakkerstraat 8, I'la fr. each; arrangements everywhere still defective. Blankenberg, 12 M. N.E. of Ostende, and 9 M. N. of Bruges, is a fishing-village with 2000 inhab. . consisting of small, one- storied houses, and greatly resembling Scheveningen (R. 29). The place still retains many of its primitive features, combined with all the pretensions of a modern bath, and is therefore in a state of transition. The 'dunes' (downs, or sand-hills) have recently been paved, and a promenade upwards of 1 M. in length has thus been formed, flanked with a number of hotels and new buildings, the principal of which is the Ciirhaus in the centre. The con- struction of a harbour was commenced in 1862 on the S.W. side, and the lighthouse transferred thither. A number of 'estaminets' have sprung up in this neighbourhood, which is reached by tra- versing the levelled dune (V2 M.). It is expected that . on the completion of the harbour, this gap will gradually be occupied by new houses, and that Blankenberg will then become a still more formidable rival of Ostend. Blankenberg was first resorted to as a sea-bathing place about 1840 , and for about twenty years was a primitive and quiet retreat. But within the last ten years it has become a place of more fashionable repute , the accommo- dation has greatly improved, and charges have risen in propor- tion. The average number of visitors is now 5000 — 6000 annually. Those who prefer country to town will find the environs quieter and the air purer here than at Ostend. The place is particu- larly recommended for ladies and children. Fish abounds, but the best is generally sent to Ostend, where it realises a higher price. It may, however, easily be ob- tained in perfection by personal application to the fishermen or their wives. The landing of their cargoes, the mending of their nets, the preparations for departure, and the various other scenes usually witnessed in fishing-villages afford (as at Scheveningen) admirable subjects for the pencil of the artist. Heyst (railway in 1/4 hr.), a small village 41/2 M. N.E. of Blankenberg, is also visited as a sea-bathing place, and possesses tolerable hotel-accommodation , bathing-machines , etc. Hotel de la Plage and Hotel du Phare, both on the beach, pen- sion 5»|-j fr. — In the village, \\ M. from the beach, Maison des Bains BRUGES. 3. Route. 9 and Hotel 6te. Anne, both comfortable. The Hotel deBruxelles, near the sluice-gates, ',2 M. from Heyst , is much frequented, but is not re- commended for a pronlonged stay on account of the unwholesome effluvia which occasionally rise from the canal. Those to whom the modern pretension and expense of Blan- kenberg are distasteful frequently retire to Heyst . which is now annually visited by 600 guests. The canals which here empty themselves into the sea drain an extensive plain at two different levels, and are closed by huge sluice-gates. Lisseweghe (railway station), Ay.i M. S.E. of Blankenberge, has a small station on the railway to Bruges , from which how- ever it is IY2 M. distant. The * Church , a handsome structure of the 13th cent. , is architecturally interesting. The tower, although two-thirds of it only are completed , is a very con- spicuous object in the landscape. From Blankenberg to Ostend by the coast is a pleasant , but somewhat monotonous walk of 12 M. The finest point of view u the hut of a douanier on the highest hill near Wenduyne. 3. Bruges, Flemish Brugge. Hotels. *H6tel de Flandre, Rue Kord du Sablon (PI. a), R. 2i;.;, D. at 1 and 4 o'clock 3, half-bottle of wine 1>|2 fr. ; excellent fish-dinners on Fridays. Hotel de Londres (PI. b) at the station, with cafe ; Hotel du Commerce (PI. c). Rue St. Jacques; Fleur de Ble (PI. d). — ' Panier d'Or (PI. e), opposite the covered market, on the W. side of the extensive market-place, a good second-class inn. Cafes. Aigle NoirandVache Hollandaise, elegant establish- ments which attract numerous visitors. Cafe de Foy, Grande Place. Vigilantes 1 fr. per drive; first hour li-j, each follg. hr. 1 fr. Railways to Blankenberge (R. 2), Courtrai (R. 4), Ghent (R. 6). English Church in the Rue d' Oatende. Principal Attractions: Hospital of St. John (p. 14), Notre Dame (p. 13), Church of St. Sauveur (p. 11), Chapelle du Saint Sang and Palais de Justice (p. 19), Academy (p. 20). Commissionaires and beggars are nume- rous and importunate at Bruges. — The pictures at Notre Dame, the Hospi- tal of St. John , the Chapelle du Saint Sang, the Palais de Justice, and the Academy are shown for a fixed charge of ',2 fr. each. Tickets are ob- tained on the spot, and no other gratuity need be given. The railway traveller alights at the former March e' de Ven- dredi. Here on March 30th. 1128. the townspeople, after having 10 Route 3. BRUGES. History. fleeted Count Theodoric of the Alsace to be Count of Flanders, returned the following spirited answer to the deputies of the king of France, who had sent to object to their choice : 'Go, tell your master that he is perjured; that his creature William of Normandy [usurper of the sovereignty of Flanders) has rendered himself unworthy of the crown by his infamous extortions; that we have elected a new sovereign , and that it becomes not the king of France to oppose us. That it is our privilege alone, as burghers and nobles of Flanders, to choose our own master'. In the 14th cent. Bruges (which in Flemish means bridges, so called from the numerous bridges across the canals) was the great commercial centre of Europe. Factories, or privileged trading companies from seventeen different kingdoms had settled here; twenty foreign ministers resided within the walls, and inhabitants of remote districts encountered unheard of difficulties in order to accomplish a visit to the renowned city. Early in the 13th cent. Bruges became one of the great marts of the Hanseatic League and of the English wool trade. Lombards and Venetians conveyed hither the products of India and Italy, and returned home with the manufactures of England and Germany. Richly laden ves- sels from Venice, Genoa, and Constantinople might be seen dis- charging their cargoes here simultaneously, and the magazines of Bruges groaned beneath the weight of English wool, Flemish linen, and Persian silk. In 1301, when Johanna of Navarre, with her husband Philip le Bel of France , visited Bruges and beheld the sumptuous costumes of the inhabitants, she is said to have ex- claimed: 'I imagined myself alone to be queen, but here I see hundreds ot persons whose attire vies with my own'. Bruges was long the residence of the Counts of Flanders. It attained the culminating point of its magnificence during the first half of the 15th cent., when the Dukes of Burgundy held their court here. It owes its reputation as a cradle of the fine aits to John and Hubert van Eyck (p. 33), who flourished at that period. The celebrated order of knighthood of the Golden Fleece was founded by Philip le Bon, Duke of Burgundy and the Netherlands, at Bruges on Jan. 10th, 1429, on the occasion of his marriage with Isabella, daughter of John I. of Poitugal. It was instituted for the protection of the church, and the fleece was probably se- lected as its badge in allusion to one of the staple commodities St. Sauveur. BRUGES. 3. Route. 11 of Flanders, and not to the Golden Fleece ol' mythology. Knights of the order still exist in Austria and Spain. The broad streets and richly decorated mediaeval houses still indicate its ancient glory. Of all the cities of Belgium, Bruges has most faithfully preserved the external characteristics of the middle ages. The town now presents a melancholy and deserted appearance, Its commerce is insignificant, and its prosperity gone. Nearly one-third of the 47,231 inhab. are said to be paupers. The town is, however, a favourite retreat for retired and wealthy- merchants, many of whom settle here to spend the evening of a busy and fatiguing life in undisturbed repose. To the r. in the street leading from the railway-station into the town is situated the *Cathedral (St. Sauveur, PI. 11), an early Gothic structure of the 13th and 14th cent, (choir of the 12th, vaulting of choir and its five chapels 1482—1527). Exter- nally it is a cumbrous brick building, destitute of a portal, dis- figured by later additions, and surmounted by a tower, which some- what resembles a castle and has a Moorish aspect. The interior is adorned with numerous paintings, all furnished with the names of the artists and the dates. West side: Van Oost, Descent of the Holy Ghost, 1. the portrait of the master, r. that of his son; *VanHoeck, Crucifixion; Backereel, St. Carlo Borromeo ad- ministering the Eucharist to persons sick of the plague; *Van Oost , Triumph of Christ over Time and Death; * Zegers, Ado- ration of the Magi. — S. Aisle: Schoreel , Death of Mary^ a copy of the picture in the Academy; * Memling (ascribed by many to Thierry Stuerbout), Martyrdom of St. Hippolytus (covered). The four saints in 'grisaille' on the outside of the shutters are St. Charles, St. Hippolytus, St. Elisabeth, and St. Margaret. The principal pic- ture represents the saint about to be torn to pieces by horses. The rider on the grey horse and the man by the side of the chestnut are remarkably easy and life-like. The three functionaries in the background are stiff and destitute of expression. On the whole the picture is less pleasing than most of the other works of the master. — The picture on the r. represents a king distributing alms; that on the 1. the donor and his wife, admirable portraits. The grouping and the landscape of the former exhibit all the charms of Memling's best style. Van der Meire, Crucifixion (covered); Maes, St. Rosalia and St. Dorothea ; Van Oost, Portiuncula, St. Francis receiving abso- 12 Route 3. BRUGES. St. Sauveur. lution from the Virgin. In the Transepts six large pictures by Jan van Orley (1725), representing the history of the Saviour. Beneath these, to the S., M. de Vos, Consecration of St. Eligius ; N., Van Oost, Conversion of St. Hubert; opposite, Deyster, Suf- ferings of Christ. The choir is separated from the nave by a screen of black and white marble. — The Choir contains two large marble *monuments of the bishops Castillion (d. 1753) and Susteren (d. 1742), both by Pulinx. High altar-piece, Resurrection by Janssens: beneath it. Van Thulden, Christ and Mary; *Van Oost. Peter and John. The choir-stalls are adorned with the armorial bearings of the Order of the Golden Fleece (Toison d'Or). Gobelins tapestry copied from Van Orley's pictures is exhibited here an- nually during the month of May. — Chapels of the Choir. 1st: Memling , Presentation in the Temple, with the donors, a •small winged picture 1. of the altar. Opposite to it, on the posterior wall of the choir, two pictures by Erasmus Quellin, re- presenting St. Augustine. 2nd Chapel: Van Oost, Flight into Egypt. 3rd: J. v. Eyck, Mater Dolorosa (covered) ; also a tomb- stone richly gilded and enamelled ; J. v. Oost, The Saviour pre- dicting his passion ; His appearance after the Resurrection. At the side. Portrait of Philippe le Bel (son of Maximilian V. and father of the Emperor Charles V.) on a gold ground (covered), master unknown. The inscription beneath terms him ^Philippus Stok\ (a sobriquet applied to him by- the citizens of Bruges in allusion to his habit of carrying a stick), and mentions him as the foun- nstant activity. The prosperity of the town is now a mere matter of history. A most interesting memorial of that period, however, has been preserved in the handsome Cloth Hall, the most considerable of the civic edifices of Belgium. It is a rich specimen of the Gothic style , commenced in 12C>0, completed in 1304 , less uncommon than the Halles at Bruges , but far superior in lightness and elegance. The E. portion, [supported by columns, is of later date. The square Belfry . which rises from the centre , is un questionably the oldest part. The edifice, being now no longer required for its original purpose, is employed as a Town Hall. It is said to have served as a model to the eminent architect 3Ir. Gilbert Scott in his successful design for the Town Hall of Hamburg. The statues which originally adorned the facade, 44 in number, were restored in 1860, executed by P. Puyenbroeh of Brussels. They represent 31 sovereigns who bore the title of 'Count of Flanders', from Baldwin of the Iron Arm to Charles V.. with their consorts. - The 'Cathedral of St. Martin, of the 15th cent. Cchoir earlier), con- structed externally in the purest Gothic style, contains a picture represent- 28 Route 5. TOURNAI. in^' the history of the Fall in dift'erent sections , erroneously attributed to J. van Eiick. It bears the date 1525, and is probably a work of Peter Pourbus, or a master of similar character. A flat stone in the choir marks the grave of Janseniua (d. 1638), Bishop of Ypern , the founder of a sect named after him and still existing in Holland. — Lace is largely manufactured here Stat. Poperinghe, a town with 10,G90 inhab. At Courtrai the Tournai line quits the flat land and enters an undulating and picturesque district. After 1/2 lir. the train stops at Mouscron, the Belgian Douane, a large village with 7308 inhab,. of which the railway traveller however sees little. (From Mous- cron to Lille and Calais see p. 54). Beyond Mouscron , between stat. Xieschheim (Ft. Nechin) and Templeuve. the Belgian line quits the province of West Flanders and enters that of HainauU (or Hennegau). Flemish is the language of the former, French of the latter. To the 1. rises Mont St. Auhert (p. 31)', 300 ft. in height, also called Ste. Trinite from the small church on its summit. It is 4 M. distant from Tournai, and is much visited on account of the fine view which it com- mands. Near Tournai the train crosses the Scheldt . and finally stops on the handsome quay constructed by Louis XIV. 5. Tournai. Hotels. Hotel de 1' Imperatr ice , 'Singe d'Or (R. 1, B. 1, A. ijo fr.), both in the town. Hotel de Bellevue, to the 1. near the station. Tournai (30.959 inhab.), Flem. Doornik, the most important and prosperous town of Hainault, and one of the most ancient in Bel- gium, was the Civitas Nerviorum of Caesar, and the earliest seat of the Merovingian kings. It was, however, entirely modernised under Louis XIV., so that no trace of its venerable age now remains. The extensive new fortifications, constructed by Vauban by order of that monarch, fell to decay at the close of last century, but were extended after the second Treaty of Paris. During a siege in 1581 by Alexander of Parma the defence of the town was conducted by the Princess d'Espinoy, of the noble house of Lalaing. who is said to have combined the most undaunted bravery with all the circumspection of an experienced general. Although wounded in the arm, she refused to quit the ramparts, and did not sur- render the fortress until the greater part of the garrison had TOURNAI. 5. Route. 29 fallen. A monument in bronze to the memory of this heroic wo- man, designed by Dutrieux , was erected in the Grand' Place in 1863. She is represented in a complete suit of armour, with a battle-axe in her hand, leading her troops against the enemy. The Schelde (Escaut) divides the town into two nearly equal parts: that on the 1. bank, however, is by far the more im- portant and animated. The handsome, broad Quays, planted with trees, contribute greatly to render Tournai one of the most pleas- ing and picturesque towns in Belgium. The river is generally crowded with barges, most of which are laden with coal from the mines of Mons , and are bound for Ghent and other important places on the river. Above the houses of the 1. bank rises the imposing *Cathedral (Xotre Dame), with its five lowers', one of the grandest existing examples of the Romanesque style. The nave dates from the middle of the 11th, the transept from the 12th, and the choir from the 13th cent. The latter is a noble specimen of the pointed style, resembling the choir of the cathedral of Cologne. The W. Portal is in the later Gothic style. Each aisle consists of two vaulted passages, one above the other. The interior was purged in 1S52 of all the unsuitable additions with which it had been dis- figured in the course of centuries , and is now peculiarly strik- ing and impressive. The church contains few pictures. In the first chapel of the S. aisle, on the posterior wall, a Crucifixion by Jordaens ; in the transept a Holy Family with a glory of angels,, painted by M. de Negre in 1650 ; on the S. wall of the choir, Christ restoring the blind to sight, by Gallait. 1833, this master's first important work; on a pillar on the N. side of the choir, opposite the 1. side of the high altar, a picture by Ruhens, Rescue of souls from Purgatory , a bold composition , a female figure in the lower part of the picture particularly beautiful. Most of the stained glass windows are believed to be by Stuer- bout. To the 1. of the high altar is the Gothic reliquary of St. Eleutherius , the first Bishop of Tournai (6th cent.), elaborately- executed in silver about the year 1200 , and adorned with the figures of the 12 Apostles. Opposite to it, r. of the high altar, there is a similar reliquary of the 8th or 9th cent. , containing the relics of St. Peter the Martyr. The screen which separates the choir from the nave was erected in 1566; it is surmounted 30 Route 5. TOURNAI. St. Brice. by a large group in bronze by Lecreux. representing St. Michael o\ercoraing Satan. The stained glass of the choir by Capronnier is modern. One of the windows was presented by the Duke of Brabant. At the back of the high altar a monument by JJuquesnoy has been erected to the memory of all the bishops and canons of Tournai. The Sacristy contains a very valuable crucifix in ivory by the same master. The treasury is also worthy of inspection (sacristan 1/2 fr.). *St. Qnentin, near the cathedral, in the spacious Grand" Place, is a remarkably elegant structure , justly termed 'la petite cathe- drale' by the townspeople. It is especially interesting to architects as a perfect example of the -transition style. The stained glass is by Btthune flSoSj. St. Jacques is another similar edifice. The pulpit represents a huge trunk of oak, around which vihes are clinging, -with a grotto opening at the side. The lateral altar on the 1. is adorned with a copy of Rubens' picture of Souls rescued from Purgatory in the cathedral. The handsome Belfry (comp. p. 35). adjoining the cathedral, erected in 1190, was restored in 1582. Pursuing his route and ascending to the r. , the traveller passes a Concert Hall supported by columns, and reaches the gate of the former Monastery of St. Martin. The buildings of the priory above serve as an Hotel de Ville, the tympanum of which contains the arms of the town, a tower with three lilies, surmounted by the Belgian lion. The small picture-gallery contains a few good works, e. g. The dead bodies of the Counts Egmont and Hoorne (p. 78) by Gallait (a native of Tournai). St. Brice, a church of the l^th cent. . on the r. bank of the Schelde, contains the remains of Childeric (d. 480), king of the Franks. A number of interesting curiosities , now preserved in the Imperial Library at Paris, were found in a coffin here in 1655; among them were upwards of 300 small figures in gold, resem- bling bees , with which the royal robes are said to have been decorated. Napoleon, on the occasion of his coronation, preferred them to the fleurs de lys as insignia of the imperial dignity. These relics were the property of Archduke Leopold William (d. 1662), stadtholder of -the Netherlands. After his death they GHENT. 6. Route. 31 were presented by Eoip. Leopold I. to the Elector of Mayence, who in 1664 sent them as a gift to Louis XIV. Stockings and carpets are the staple commodities manufactured at Tournai. The latter are generally known as Brussels carpets. The art of weaving carpets is said to have been brought to Europe by Flemings . who learned it from the Saracens at the time of the Crusades. The Manufacture Royale. the principal manufactory at Tournai. although it has lost much of its original importance, still employs about 2400 hands. Most o'f the carpets are made by the work-people in their own dwellings. There are but few large factories in the town , in consequence of which it presents a much cleaner and pleasanter appearance than the other large in- dustrial towns of Belgium. Mont St. Aubert (p. 28), although only 200 ft. in height, commands a very extensive panorama . being the only eminence in the entire district, and is well wo; thy of a visit. The summit is about 4 M. distant. Carriage in 3/^ h. (3 — 4 fr.). A voiturier lives near the Belfry. 6. From Bruges to Ghent. There are two railways between Bruges and Ghent , the Chemin de Fer de PEtaf, and the Waesland Line, the property of a private company. The trains of the former run between the two cities in 3i4— 1 hr. (fares 3 fr. 5*3, 2 fr. TO, 1 fr. 80 c), those of the latter in 65—95 min. (fares 3 fr. 5, 2 fr. 35, 1 fr. 45 c). The district traversed by both lines is equally un- interesting. Ghent, Fr. Gand. Hotels. "Hotel de Vienne (PI. a), in the Marche aux Grains, R. 2, L. 34, F. I'll, D. 2i|-2, A. 3|4 fr; '^Hotel Royal (PI. b), in the Place d'Armes; Armes de Zelande (PI. c), R. 1, B. 1 fr. ; Comte Egmont (PI. d); Hotel de Courtrai (PI. e), and Due de Wellington (PI. fj, both in the Rue aux Draps. Cafe des Arcades, an elegant establishment in the Place d'Armes; Cafe du Theatre, by the theatre; Cafe Royal. E. side of the .Palais de Justice; Cafe des Etrangers, Rue du Marche aux Oiseaux ; Cour Roy ale, Rue de la Station 3. Vigilantes per drive 1 fr. ; first hour I'j.j, each following hour 1 fr. It should be observed that the station of the Waesland Railway (p. 51; is nearly 1 M. from that of the Government Line. Theatre (PI. 42), adjoining the Place d'Armes, handsomely fitted up. Boxes and stalls (comp. p. 58) 4, parquet 2i|2 , pit 1 fr. Performances in winter only, 4 times weekly. Opera generally good. Flemish pieces are performed in the new Theatre Minard (PI. 43), Rue St. Pierre. 32 Route 0. GHENT. History. Flowers and exotics of great beauty may be seen at the nursery-garden of Vanhoutte, at Gentbriigge, outside the town (adra. 1 fr.); also at that of Verschaffelt, Rue du Cbaume. English Church in the Rue Digue de Brabant. Principal Attractions: Cathedral (p. 37), St. Michael (p. 41), Hotel de Ville , exterior only (p. 36) , Be'guinage (p. 4G) , view from the Belfry (p. 35), or from the tower of the cathedral (p. 40). Ghent , the principal manufacturing town of Belgium , with 16,960 houses and 119,848 inhab., is situated on the Scheldt and the Ley (Lys), the numerous ramifications of which intersect the city in all directions. At the beginning of the 13th cent., when the County of Artois was united to France, Ghent became the capital of Flanders and the usual residence of the Counts. At a very early period a spirit of independence developed itself among the inhabitants, more especially the weavers ; and they succeeded in obtaining from their sovereigns those concessions which form the foundation of constitutional liberty. At one period the citizens had become so powerful and warlike that they succeeded in re- pulsing an English army of 24,000 men, under Edward I. (1297), and a few years later they were the principal combatants in the 'Battle of Spurs' (p. 27), to the issue of which their bravery mainly contributed. Their subjection to the Counts of Flanders and the Dukes of Burgundy appears to have been little more than nominal ; for , whenever these princes attempted to levy a tax which was unpopular with the citizens , the latter sounded their alarm-bell, flew to arms, and expelled the obnoxious officials who were ordered to exact payment. On these occasions the citizens, who were always provided with arms , wore white ban- dages on their arms, or white caps, as a species of revolutionary badge. During the 13th, 14th, and 15th cent, revolutions seem almost to have been the order of the day at Ghent. Matters, however, sometimes reached such a climax, that their princes collected their armies and miarched against the city. The bur- ghers, brave, but undisciplined, were soon compelled to succumb, and the day of retribution and humiliation had arrived. Enormous contributions were then extorted, the most valuable privileges of the city suspended or cancelled, and the corporation and principal citizens compelled to walk out at the gate with halters round their necks, and to kiss the dust before the feet of their master and conqueror. The turbulent spirit of the Ghenters ultimately History. GHENT. 0. Route. 33 proved their ruin. Their wealth and liberty had rendered them so presumptuous that they at last openly declared war against their sovereign, Philip the Good of Burgundy; and the best proof of the vastness of their resources is that they succeeded in car- rying on the war for a period of five years (1448 — 54). They were at length compelled to yield ; and heavy fines , a thorough humiliation, and a complete stagnation of all commerce were the disastrous consequences of the war. In the year 1400 Ghent is said to have boasted of 80,000 men capable of bearing arms: the weavers alone, 40,000 in num- ber, could furnish 18,000 fighting men from their guild. A bell was rung several times daily to summon the weavers to their work and their meals ; and , as long as it continued to ring , no vessels were permitted to pass the drawbridges, and no one ven- tured into the streets lest they should encounter the vast living stream which was hurrying in every direction. The same peal is rung to this day, but the times have changed in all other respects. Ghent was the principal sphere of the labours of the illustrious masters Hubert and John van Eyck, who inaugurated a new epoch in the history of painting. Their native place was probably Eyck (now Alden-Eyck), near 3Iaas-Eyck (p. 184), where Hubert was born about the year 1366. John, the younger brother by many years , was born about 139U , probably of a different mother. The brothers became members of the corporation of painters at Ghent in 1421. Hubert , about whose private history little ii known, died in 1426. John held the offices of court -painter and chamber- Jain to Jean Sans-Pitie, Duke of Burgundy, and to his successor Philip le Bon. The latter even employed him on diplomatic missions. In 1428 the painter accompanied the Duke's embassy to Portugal, to solicit the hand of the Princess Isabella, daughter of John I., for his master. Whilst at Lisbon he painted a portrait of the princess , and afterwards made a short tour in Spain. In 1429 he returned home , and received the sum of 80 ducats for the portrait and 'sundry secret services' rendered to the Duke. When Hubert died at Ghent, his brother John was a resident at Bruges, where he purchased a house in 1431. The date of his marriage is unknown, but it is recorded that a daughter was born to him in 1434, to whom Philip le Bon stood godfather. John died at his house in Bruges on July 9th , 1440, and was buried in the ancient Church of St. Donatianus. Of Lambert and Margaret van Eyck, a younger brother and sister of Hubert and John, nothing certain is known. Margaret, who died in 1430, is said to have displayed great talent as a painter, and to have been enthusiastically devoted to her art. The works of the Van Eycks , although not entirely free from the Gothic rigidity of outline and unscientific treatment of atmosphere which Baedeker's Belgium and Holland. 2nd Edit. 3 34 Route 6. GHENT. History. characterize the pictures of their age, are far in advance of those of their contemporaries, and even of the most distinguished of their followers. Their pictures will be most justly appreciated if the different parts, which are generally elaborate and almost perfect studies from nature, be examined separately. The uniform and consistent care with which they are executed forms one of their chief merits. The Van Eycks are commonly termed the 'inventors of oil-painting', but this is not strictly an accurate expression. They were rather the dis- coverers of a new colouring-medium, which was in fact 'varnish-painting'. Long before the period of the Van Eycks, painting in oils was occasionally practised in Germany and Italy 5 but, as most of the works prior to their time were painted in distemper, the term 'oil-painting' was thought sufficiently accurate to mark the introduction of an epoch, when, in consequence of the advantages presented by the new method , painting in oils became more universal. Vasari, the great Italian historian of art, who explains this mat- ter very minutely, distinctly states that the secret consisted in the discovery that linseed and nut-oils were the most siccative, and that, when boiled with other mixtures , they produced an excellent varnisfi , that grand desi- deratum of all painters. Vasari also relates how the new method was carried to Italy by Antonello da Messina, who travelled to Bruges on purpose to learn the secret. Having thoroughly mastered the process , he retui-ned to Italy , and communicated the method to Domenico Veneziano at Venice. The latter is said to have been afterwards murdered at Florence by Andrea del Castagno , one of the initiated few , in order to prevent him from com- municating his knowledge to others. The nuptials of the Archduke Maximilian with Mary of Bur- gundy, heiress of Charles the Bold, who by her marriage brought the wealthy Netherlands into the power of Austria, were cele- brated at Ghent in 1477. Here, too, on Feb. 24th, 1500, the Emperor Charles V. was born in the Cour des Princes, a palace of the Counts of Flanders long since destroye4, but the name of whicli survives in a street near the Bruges Gate. During his reign Ghent was one of the largest and wealthiest cities in Eu- rope, and consisted of 35,000 houses with a population of 175,000. Charles V. is said to have boasted jestingly to Francis I. of France : ' Je mettrai votre Paris dans man Gand\ The turbulent spirit of the citizens having again manifested itself in various ebullitions , the emperor caused a Citadel (Het Spanjaerds Kasteel) to be erected near the Antwerp Gate in 1540, for the purpose of keeping them in check. No trace of the structure now remains. Counts Egmont and Hoorne were imprisoned in this castle in 1568 for several months before their execution. Within its precincts lay the ancient Abbey of St. Bavon, of which Eginhard, the secretary and son-in-law of Charlemagne, is said Belfry. GHENT. 6. Route. 35 once to have been abbot. The ruins of the Chapel of St. Ma- caire, which was connected with the abbey, and dates from the 12th cent., are interesting to architects. The moats of the old ^■itadel have recently been filled up. and the remains of the ram- parts removed in order to make room for new streets. The city now presents a striking combination of commercial bustle and modern comfort, with many quaint mediaeval peculia- rities. In the Place d"Artevelde, near the station, rises the Church of Ste. Anne, erected by M. Roeland in the Byzantine style. The frescoes with which the interior is in process of being adorned, are by Canned. The *Belfry ( Bel f rood , or Beffroi , PI. 4), a lofty square tower, two thirds only of the projected height, rises nearly in the <:entre of the city. It commands a fine panorama of Ghent, which the spectator here surveys in its entire extent (8 M. in circumference). According to a note written upon the original design, which is preserved in the city archives, the construction was commenced in 1183, but archcsologists believe the foundation iiot to have been laid till a century later. In 1339 the works were suspended. Etymologists differ as to the origin of the word •belfrood' or belfry, but the most probable derivation is from hell (Dutch bellan, to sound, to ring) and frood or fried (jurisdiction). One of the first privileges usually obtained by the burghers from their feudal lords was permission to erect one of these watch or bell- towers , peals from which were rung on all important occasions, to summon the people to council or to arms. According to the modern inscription , the belfry is the ^gedenkteeken der gemeente vryheden van Gent' (token of the common liberties of Ghent). The concierge, who demands 2 fr. for accompanying visitors to the top of the tower , lives in the vicinity, but is not always to be found. The total height of the tower is 396 ft. The cast iron spire is surmounted by a vane, consisting of a gilded dra- gon, 10 ft. in length, which was taken by Count Baldwin IX. from the church of St. Sophia at Constantinople in 1204. and presented to the Ghenters. The view embraces a great portion of Flanders, as well as an admirable survey of the city. When the Duke of Alva proposed to the Emp. Charles V. that he should destroy the city which had occasioned him so much annoyance, the monarch is said to have taken him to the top of the belfry, 3* 36 Route 6. GHENT. Hotel de Ville. and there to have replied: •Combien fallait-il de peaux d' Espagne pour faire un Gant de cette grandeur? — thus repudiating the cruel suggestion of his minister. The mechanism of the Chimes maybe examined at the top of the tower. They are played by means of a cylinder, like that in a barrel-organ, the spikes on which set the tongues and ham- mers of the bells in motion. They may also be played by a mu- sician, who uses an apparatus resembling the keyboard and pedal of an organ. The tower contains 44 bells. A hole in one of them was made by a cannon-ball fired at the belfry by the Aus- trians from the old citadel in 1789 , in order to prevent the citizens from ringing the alarm. The ball did not miss its aim^ but failed to effect its purpose; for the tone of the bell continued unimpaired. One of the oldest and heaviest bells, which was recast in 1659, bears the inscription: ^Myn naem is Roeland ; als ick klippe dan is^t brandt ; als ick luyde, is't victorie in Vlaender- land' (My name is Roland; when I am rung hastily, then there is a fire ; when I resound in peals, there is victory in Flanders). The lower portion of the Belfry serves as a town-prison, term- ed -Mammelokker", a Flemish word applied to the colossal statue over the entrance to the Place of the Hotel de Ville (representing a woman giving sustenance from her own breast to an old man in chains at her feet), and expressive of the filial act she is performing f'C/iarife Romaine'J. The portal and figures belong probably to the 17th cent. A Gothic building adjoining the Belfry, erected in 1325, was formerly the cloth-hall. The adjacent *H6tel de Ville (PI. 32) possesses two entirely different facades. That to the N. , constructed in 1481 in the later florid Gothic (Flamboyant) style, restored in 1829. is per- haps the most richly decorated in Belgium. The E. facade, dating from 1595 — 1628, is in the Italian Renaissance style, consisting of three different tiers of half-columns , the lowest of which are of the massive Doric order, the next Ionic, and the highest Co- rinthian. The 'Pacification of Ghent', a treaty drawn up by a congress of the Confederates who assembled here in 1576 with a view to expel the Spaniards from the Netherlands, was signed in the throne-room here. There is a tolerable picture in the interior, by Van Bree , representing the Prince of Orange inter- University. GHENT. S. Route. 37 •ceding for the oppressed Rom. Catholics, but nothing else vrorthy of mention. The University (PI. 39). on the other side of the Belfry (en- trance at the back, Rue Longue des Marais), is a very handsome edifice, erected in 1826 by WiDlam I., King of Holland. The facade does not show to advantage, the street being too narrow; but the interior is imposing. The Aula is a remarkably fine hall, supported by massive columns of marble, and capable of con- taining 1700 persons. The entrance-hall is decorated with new frescoes. The Natural Hist. Museum is a collection of considerable merit; there are also cabinets of coins, medals, and Roman anti- quities. Ghent and Liege possess the only universities in Bel- gium which are supported by government: those of Brussels and Louvain are dependent on their own resources (universites lihres). — An Ecole du Genie Civil and an Ecole des Arts et Manufac- tures are connected with the university. The annual number of students is about 420. The * Cathedral of St. Bavon, or Sint Baefs (PI. 16), is ex- ternally a cumbrous and unattractive Gothic structure , but the interior is one of the most richly decorated in Belgium. The crypt was founded in 951, the choir and chapels were re-con- structed in 1228, and the whole completed about the middle of the 16th cent., soon after which, however, it suffered severely from puritanical outrages. The walls of the choir are partially covered with black marble, the balustrades are of white or varie- gated marble, and the chapel-gates of bronze. High up in the nave are the names and armorial bearings of Knights of the ■Golden Fleece. The last (23rd) meeting of the Order was held in this church by Philip H. in 1559. The Statue of St. Bavon, in his ducal robes, resting on clouds, by Verhriiggen, adorns the high altar. The walls of the choir are decorated with scenes from the New and Old Testament, in grisaille , by Van Ysschoot. The four massive copper Can- dlesticks, bearing the English arms, are believed once to have adorned St. Paul's in London, and to have been sold during the Protectorate of Cromwell. On each side of the choir, near the altar, are four handsome Monuments to bishops, large sculp- tured groups of the two last centuries. The best is that of Bishop Triest, by Duquesnoy (d. 1654), the first to the 1. The 38 Route GHENT St. Bavon. Pulpit, by Delcaux (d. 1778), half in oak, half in marble, re- presents the Tree of Life, -svith an allegory of Time and Truth. The 24 Chapels of the aisles and choir contain pictures •which are here enumerated in their order from the W. entrance. Nos. 1, 6, 7, 9, and 10 of the choir - chapels contain admirable- works, worthy of the most careful examination; that in the 6th. is of European celebrity. Most of them being covered, the visitor should at once secure the services of the sacristan (fee 1 fr.; for each additional pers. '/o fr.) S. Aisle. 1st Chapel: *I)e Crayer, Beheading of John the Baptist. 2nd: Paelink, St. Coletta receiving permission from, the magistrates to found a convent. 3rd, behind the pulpit: *De Cauu-er, Baptism of Christ. *Choir. 1st Chapel: *Pourbus, Christ among the doc;ors,- most of the heads are portraits, 1. near the frame Alva, Charles V., Philip II., and the master himself; on the inner wings the Baptism and circumcision , on the outer the Saviour and the donor of the picture. 2nd: De Crayer, Martyrdom of St. Barbara. (Op- posite to it, a fine modern monument in marble, to the brothers Goethals, by Parmentier .') 3rd: *Van der Meire (a pupil of Van Eyck), Christ between the malefactors , a winged picture, oppo- site the altar. 4th: Van den Heuvel, The Adulteress. 5th: Nothing worthy of note. 6th: **John and Hubert van Eyck, Adoration of the Immaculate Lamb , painted for Philip the Good in 1420-32. This magnificent work originally consisted of 12 sections : i. e. , the por- tions still preserved in this cathedral were each capable of being covered by two pairs of wings, or folding shutters, as shown by the following plan.. Wings Open. Wings Closed. p ^,_^ ^^{^ ^l,.-^. 3 n • 4 1 2 Mary God the Father John the Bapt. Br. B. G. G. G. B. Br. 5 6 Adoration of the Lamb 7 8 B. B. Ghent B. B. 10 11 ^^ 13 Il4 15 16 B. Ur. 1 Br. B. 17 18 19 20 B. B. B. B. St. Eavon. GHENT 6. Route. 39 1. Adam (now at Brussels): 2. Singing Angels (at Berlin) ; 3. St. Cecilia: 4. Eve : 5. The Just Judges ; 6. The Champions of Christ ; 7. Hermit Saints ; 5. Pilgiim Saints: 9. Micah : 10, 11. Sibyls; 12. Zachariah; 13—16. The Annunciation; 17. Jodocus Vyts , the donor; 18. John the Baptist; 19. St. John the Evangelist ; 20. Lisbeth Vyts, wife of the donor. The picture was carried off by the French to Paris , where six of the wings (marked B.) fell into the hands of a dealer, who sold them to an Englishman for 100,000 fr. They were subsequently purchased for 410,000 fr. for the Museum of Berlin , of which they still constitute one of the greatest treasures, ^'os. 1. and 4. , being deemed unsuitable for the public eye , were sold by the Ghenters for 50,000 fr. , and are now at Brussels. Four only , therefore , now remain at Ghent : God the Father , the Virgin )Iary, and John the Baptist above , and below them the Adoration of the I.amb , whence the whole work derives its name. The three upper fisures on gold ground are somewhat stiff, but this defect is compensated for by the great beauty and richness of the colouring. Whilst these figures present the hard and monumental characteristics of medieeval painting, the picture below possesses all the ease and life peculiar to the School ofVanEyck. The Lamb on the altar forms the centre of the picture, in front of which is the mystic fountain of the Apocalypse. Four great multitudes approach to wor- ship the Lamb ; above , in the background , are the holy martyrs , in front the spiritual and temporal orders. There is a considerable degree of same- ness in the dense throng of heads , but the eye occasionally rests with pleasure on figures which possess more marked characteristics. The land- scape will of course bear no comparison with more modern works , but the colouring is fresh and clear. The towers of the heavenly Jerusalem are discerned between the mountains which bound the horizon. — This cele- brated picture , which unites so much of the ease and charm of real life with the most profound earnestness, has not inappropriately been compared to the great work of Dante. Copies of the six wings at Berlin , by M. Coxcie, were pre- sented to the church by the government , at whose desire Nos. 1. and 4. (Adam and Eve) were purchased in 1861 for the Brus- sels Museum. 7th Chapel: *Honthorst, Descent from the Cross; at the side, *De Crayer, Crucifixion. 8th: On the 1. the monument of Bishop Van der Noot (d. 1730), who is represented as mourning for the scourging of Christ. On the r. the monument of another bishop of the same name (d. 1770), represented kneeling before the Virgin. The altar-piece, representing the so-called Betro- thal of St. Catherine with the Infant Jesus, and the Virgin with the holy "women, are both by Roose, surnamed Liemackere. 9th: *Ruben3 , St. Bavo renounces his military career , in order to assume the cowl. The figure of the saint is said to represent the master himself in the upper part of the picture, where he 40 Route a. GHENT. St. Bavon. is received on the steps of the church by a priest, after having distributed all his property among the poor. To the 1. are the two wives of Rubens , both in the costume of that period ; one of them appears to be disengaging a chain from her neck, as if she would follow the example of the saint. Opposite to this picture: ^Venius, Raising of Lazarus, near which is the monu- ment of Bishop Damant (d. 1609). 11th: Zegers . Martyrdom of St. Livinus , the tutelary saint of Ghent. Paqut , Death of St. Rochus, modern. 12th: Martyrdom of St. Catherine, after a liubens in the Church of St. Catherine at Lille. Opposite to this chapel is the monument of Bishop Van Eersel (d. 1778). 13th: Nothing worthy of notice. 14th: M. Ccrc/e, The seven Works of Mercy. The N. Transept contains the font in which Charles V. was baptized in 1500. N. Aisle. 4th Chapel: De Crayer. Assumption. A marlle slab opposite records the names of the priests who refused to acknowledge Bishop Lebrun, appointed "by Napoleon in 1813. 3rd: *D€ Crayer, St. Macharius praying for those attacked by the plague. 2nd: Van Huffel , St. Lambertus bringing char- coal in his chorister's robe in order to ignite the incense. 1st: '■^Romhouts, Descent from the Cross ; Janssens, Pieta. The Crypt beneath the choir also contains 15 chapels, an arrangement very prevalent in large churches down to the 13th cent. , and intended as a reminiscence of the early period of Christianity, when the faithful assembled in the catacombs at the tombs of the martyrs. On certain days mass was celebrated here at night, or at a very early hour in the morning, but the custom lias long been abandoned. This crypt is said to have been con- secrated as early as 941 , but many of the stunted pillars cer- tainly do not appear older than the upper part of the building which they support. Hubert van Eyck and his sister Margaret are said to be buried here. The Tower (446 steps) affords a fine prospect, similar to that from the Belfry (fee 2 fr. for 1—4 pers.). The Episcopal Palace is a modern building on the E. side of the church. The *Chu»cli of St. Nicholas (Pi. 24) , although enlarged and altered in 1582 and 1623, is still a fine and interesting example St. Michael s. GHENT. fJ. Route. 4 J of the earliest Gothic style. It is situated in the Marche aux Groins, or corn - market , the busiest part of Ghent. The ten turrets on the lower tower have given rise to the bon mot : '•L'eglise a onze tours et dix sans (same pronunciation as cents) clcches\ Many venerable treasures of art disappeared from the church during the religious wars and the wild excesses of the iconoclasts . but have been partially replaced by modern works, the best of which are here enumerated : De Cauwer , Descent from the Cross, high up to the r. of the principal portal: 2nd Chapel on the S. : '^Maes, Madonna and Child with St. John: 4th : Quellin, Crucifixion. Choir. 2nd Chapel : Roose, The good Samaritan: 4th: Janssens , St. Jerome. High altar-piece by *Rcos€, Call of St. Nicholas to the episcopal office, this masters best work. N. Aisle. 3rd Chapel: Steyaert , Preaching of St. Antony. An inscription under a small picture on an opposite pillar in the nave records that Olivier Minjau and his wife are buried here, '^ende hadden tezamen een en dertich kinderen' (i. e.. they had together one and thirty children). When Emp. Charles V. entered Ghent, the father with twenty -one sons who had joined the procession, attracted his attention. Shortly after- wards . however, the whole family was carried off by the plague. The stained glass in the windows of the choir are by Cnpronnier and Laroche^ 1851. On the quay (Grasley) behind the W. side of the Corn Marker there are several interesting old buildings. The handsome Skipper Bouse (No. 29) was erected in 1531 by the Guild of the Skippers. *St. Michaers Church (PL 23), a handsome Gothic edifice begun in 1445 (nave completed 1480, tower unfinished), was employed in 1791 as a 'Temple of Reason", and lost most of its treasures of art at that period. These have been replaced by a number of large modern pictures which should not be overlooked. S. Aisle. 3rd Chapel: Model of the tower as originally designed. Van Bockhorst, Conversion of St. Hubert. 4th: Van den Heuvel, Mary bewails the Death of Christ. 5th: V. d. Heu- vel, Flight into Egypt. — S. Transept. *FranfOis, Ascension: *Leiis, Annunciation, both covered. Van Oost . Cure of a sick man by the invocation of the Virgin. — Choir. 1st Chapel; *De Cauwer J Soul released from Purgatory. 2nd: Van der Plaetsen, The Pope exhorting Louis XI. to submit to the will of 42 Route (J. GHENT. St. Pierre. God. painted in 1838; *Spagnol€tto , St. Francis. 3rd: *De Crayer . Assumption of St. Catharine , one of the master's best works. 4th: Ph. de Champaigne, Pope Gregory teaching choris- ters to sing; Honthorst , Conversion of St. Hubert. 5 th: Van Mander, St. Sebastian and S. Carlo Borromeo. 6th, at the back of the high altar : Van Bockhorst , Allegory , Moses and Aaron typical of the Old Testament; St. John, St. Sebastian, and the Pope of the New. 7th: *Maes (d. 1856), Holy Family. 8th: Van Bockhorst, David's Repentance; Van den HeuveL Martyrdom of St. Barbara. 9th: *Zegers, Scourging of Christ. 10th: Th. V. Thulden, Martyrdom of St. Adrian. 11th: De Crayer, Descent of the Holy Ghost. — N. Transept: *Van Byck's celebrated Crucifixion, the only picture in Ghent by this master, said to have been painted for the church in 6 weeks for 800 fl. A horseman extends the sponge to the Saviour with his spear; John and the Maries below , weeping angels above. *Pa€link, Finding of the Cross by the Empress Helena; painted at Rome in 1822. — N. Aisle. 4th Chapel: Venius, Raising of Lazarus. 3rd: De Crayer, St. Bernard, St. Joseph, and St. George wor- shipping the Trinity. 1st: Van Balen, Assumption. — *Pulpit by Frank, 1846, a master-piece of taste and careful execution. It rests on the trunk of a fig-tree of marble; Christ healing a blind man forms the principal group below. *St. Pierre (PI. 25), which looks down upon the railway-station from the height to the left, is architecturally an edifice of little interest, but possesses a number of valuable pictures. The build- ing was destroyed by the iconoclasts in 1578 , but restored in 1720. It was employed as a picture-gallery from 1797 to 1809. The pictures , none of which are covered , are enumerated in order, beginning on the r. ; the sacristan's services are therefore unnecessary. 1. *Jans3ens, The miraculous Draught of Fishes, a scene which is little more than an accessory to the extensive and pleasing landscape in which it is placed. 2. *Roose, Na- tivity of Christ, an effective picture; the shepherds, figures of the old Flemish type, particularly good. 3. Erasm. Quellin, Triumph of the Church. 4. * Roose , St. Francis Xavier, the apostle of the Indians. Above the entrance to the choir on the r., a Scene from the history of St. Livinus , master unknown. On the pillar: Christ crowned with thorns, after Van Dyck (ori- Palais de Justice. GHENT. 6. Route. 43 ginal in the Museum at Antwerp). — Choir : Van den Avond, Holy Family, vrith dancing angels; a large landscape vith two hermits as accessories, similar to Nr. 1. At the back of the high altar: ^Zegers, Christ healing a blind man. The chapel contains live small pictures by Van Durselaer , of the period of the Spa- nish supremacy , illustrative of the virtues of the miraculous image of the Virgin on the altar. Above the Sacristy : ^ZegerSj Raising of Lazarus. Altar-piece to the 1. in the choir: *i)e Crayer, St. Benedict recognising the equerry of the Gothic King Totilas. Crucifixion , after Rubens (p. 126). Van den HeuveL Distribution of the rosary. *Janss€ns , Liberation of Peter. — N. Aisle.: Th. van Thulden , Triumph of the Cath, Church; Van Ihulden, Time raises up Truth; Luther, Calvin, Wickliffe^ and Huss lie in the dust. Erasm. Quellin, St. Francis Xavier preaching. *Ry3chot, Landscape, the healing of a blind man as accessory. — Isabella, sister of Charles V., and consort of Chris- tian n, of Denmark, reposes in this church , but no monument marks the spot. The open space in front of the church has been formed by the demolition of part of the old abbey-buildings. Another part serves as a barrack. The New Citadel, which adjoins the church, commenced in 1(S22. completed in 1830, and surrendered to the Belgian insur- gents the same year, belongs to a chain of fortresses constructed during the Dutch regime to protect the Belgian frontier. It com- mands the course of the Schelde and the Ley, and together with the chuich is situated on the Blandinusberg, the only eminence in the entire district. To the 1. at the extremity of the Rue Basse, and bounded on two sides by the Ley, is situated the Palais de Justice (PI. 38), an imposing edifice by Roelandt, completed in 1844, with a pe- ristyle of the Corinthian order. A broad staircase leads from the E. entrance to the -Salle des Pas Perdus (240 ft. long, 72 ft. high), a hall from which the diflerent courts and offices are entered. Opposite to the Palais is the Theatre (PI. 42), by the same archi- tect. The effect of the fine fai,-ade is unfortunately impaired by the narrowness of the street. It also contains a handsome ball-room. The Rue des Champs (Veldstraet) forms a prolongation of the Rue Basse. At No. 53, the property of Count d'Hane de Stee- 44 llonte 0. GHENT. Oudthury. liuyse , Louis XVIII. spent the greater part of the 'Hundred Days' (March, April, May) in 1815. The following are the chief objects of interest in the streets leading by the corn and vege- table markets to the Academy. To the 1. in the Marche aux Herbes (Groenselmarkt) rises the extensive Grande Boucherie (Flem. Groot Vleeschhuis , PI. 10). erected at the end of the 14th cent. The lion with the flag-staff on the gable was placed there by the Guild of Butchers, the descendants of Charles V. and the pretty daughter of a butcher, ■who secured for her son and his descendants the sole right of slaughtering and selling meat in the city. The son of the emperor had four sons, who were the ancestors of all the members of the guild down to 1794. An interesting mural painting in oil, of the 15th cent., was discovered in 1855 in the old chapel of the building. Crossing the Place de Pharailde, the traveller reaches a gate- way in the corner to the 1., erected in 1689 in the Rococo style by the sculptor Arthur Quellin , and leading to the Marche aux Poissons (PI. 35). The gateway is surmounted by a statue of Neptune (^^Neptuno Ganda tropaeum'y, r. and 1. are the river- gods of the Schelde and the Ley, with the inscriptions : "Hannoniae servit Scaldis , Gandanique secando, In mare festinans volvere pergit aquas." "Lysa vehit merces quas nunc Artesia mittit Et placido gaudens flumine pisce scatet." The Oudeburg (Gravenkasteel, Gravensteen, Chateau des Comtes; PI. 12), a massive old castellated-looking gateway, with loop-holes, rises among modern houses in the same place, at the corner of the street. It is a remnant of the ancient palace of the Counts of Flanders, where Edward III. with his Queen Philippa were sumptuously entertained by Jacques van Artevelde in 1339, and where their son John of Gaunt (i. e. Gand or Ghent) was born in 1340. Here, too, the beautiful Jacqueline, Countess of Hol- land (see below) was kept a prisoner for three months by Philip the Good of Burgundy in 1424. The palace was built in 868, but the gateway not before 1180. The latter, now the entrance to a cotton-factory, is one of the oldest structures in Belgium. A sub- terranean passage , 21/2 M. in length , leading to a point outside the city, and probably employed for admitting soldiers to the pa- lace in case of an emergency, has recently been discovered here. Academy. GHENT. 6. Route. 45 Jacqueline of Bavaria, Countess of Holland, bom in 1400, was the only daughter of William VI. , Duke of Bavaria and Count of Holland. In 1415 she married Jean, Duke of Touraine , became a widow in 1417, and succeeded to the estates of her father the same year. She then mar. ried John, Duke of Brabant, who was persuaded by her ambitious uncle Jean sans Pitie, Bishop of Liege, to cede her states to him for 12 years. This occasioned a revolt in Holland , and Jacqueline now urged her husband to avail himself of the opportunity to recover the estates. The Duke declining, Jacqueline resolved to desert him , and fled to England , applying at the same time to the Pope for a divorce. Without waiting for an answer from the court of Rome, she married the Duke of Gloucester, who was captivat- ed by her beauty and touched by her distress. She now persuaded him to accompany her with an army into the Low Countries in order to recover possession of her estates. Philip le Bon , Jacqueline's cousin and heir to her estates, vigorously opposed the invaders, and Gloucester was compelled to fly, but Jacqueline was captured and imprisoned at Ghent. She nov/ vainly endeavoured to elTect a reconciliation with her former husband , the Duke of Brabant. Soon after this failure , however^, she succeeded in escap- ing from prison by bribing the guards , and repaired to the Hague. Her ambitious uncle being now dead , she again became mistress of Holland. Her severity, however, occasioned a revolt, of which Philip took advantage, and compelled her to recognise him as governor of her dominions. 3Iean- while the Duke of Brabant had died, and Jacqueline's marriage with the Duke of Gloucester had been declared null. She was therefore again fiee, and resolved to marry Francois de Borselen, a simple chevalier, and one of her own subjects. The Duke of Burgundy, bring appri sed of this, caused Bor- selen to be arrested and condemned to death. Jacqueline, however, saved his life by entirely ceding her estates to Philip. She then married Borselen in 1433 , and retired to the castle of Teilingen on the banks of the Rhine^ where she died in 1436, after a brief and romantic, but not altogether un- blemished career. The Academy of Art (PI. 2) , with 700 students, established in the old monastery of the Augustines, adjoining the insignifi- cant Augustine Church , contains a collection (Musee) of about 140 pictures, most of the older of which were obtained from the monasteries of Ghent dissolved in 1795. Visitors are admitted at any hour (fee 1/2 fr.). There are no works of pre-eminent merit^ but the collection should on no account be overlooked. To the r. and 1. of the entrance : 10. De Crayer, Francis I. of France pre- senting his sword to the Chevalier Lannoy after the Battle of Pavia (1525); 11, Emp. Charles V. landing in Africa on his ex- pedition against Tunis. These large pictures, of which boldness of outline is almost the sole merit , convey a good idea of the luxury of the festivities of the 16tli cent. To the 1., farther on: 12. Van Volsum, Processions in the March e' de Vendredi on Oct. 46 Route 6. GHENT. Beyuinage. 18th, 1717, on the occasion of the reception of Enip. Charles VI, as Count of Flanders. *3. Adrian of Utrecht, Fish -dealer. 9. Jordaens, Portrait of St. Ambrose. *5. Rubens, St. Francis re- ceiving the Stigmata, similar to the picture in the Cathedral of Cologne. *16. De Crayer , Coronation of St. Rosalia. 4. De Crayer , Tobias with the Archangel Raphael. 8. Van Helmont. Christ on the Cross. On the posterior wall: 24. Jordaens, Christ and the Adulteress. 74. Rombouts, Themis sitting in judgment, a picture with numerous figures. *25. Jordaens, 'First be recon- ciled with thy brother'. On the r. side of the saloon: 21. M. Coxcie, Last Judgment. 17, Duchastel, Procession in the Marche de Vendredi. at the reception of Charles II. of Spain as Count of Flanders (1666). 6. De Crayer, Solomon's Judgment. 18. Ver- hagen, Presentation in the Temple. 73. Hanselaer, Copy of Ru- bens' picture at Alost (p, 52), — In the central apartment: *3l. Pourbus , Isaiah announcing to Hezekiah his recovery , with the miracle of the sun going ten degrees backward. On the wings a Crucifixion, and the donor, the Abbot del Rio. — The last sa- loon contains modern pictures, many of them mediocre, the greater number painted about the beginning of the present cen- tury. The following are perhaps most deserving of notice: 1.. 133. Paelink, Saul: 92. Paelink, Anthea and her companions in the Temple of Diana at Ephesus ; 98. Pique, Hebe; 138. Geir- naert, Giving a pledge; *loO. De Vigne. Forest scene; 89. Han- selaer, Abel's Offering; *De Keyser , Slaughter of the Innocents: 145. Funck , Tyrolese Landscape; *153, Wittcamp , Jailer; 149. Vennemann, Children playing ; 109. Gallait, Jesus and the Pha- risees; 146. Verweer , Katwyk aan Zee, near Leyden (mouth oi the Rhine); 83. Paelink, Judgment of Paris; *144. Verboeckho- ven, Landscape with herd and cattle; 137. Hanselaer, St. Se- bastian; 118. Van Maldeghem, Emp, Charles V. meditating on his lot; 139, De Noter, Winter-scene in Ghent. The extensive *Beguinage (PI. 5; Beggynhof , from beggen, to beg; or from St. Begga; or from Le Begue, a priest of Liege. The first derivation is believed to be the correct one , although the sisterhood cannot now be classed among the mendicant orders), at the Porte de Bruges, founded in 1234, was one of the few nunneries which the Emp. Joseph II. suffered to escape disso- lution. It remained unmolested during the French Revolution Maison de Force. GHENT. 6. Route. 47 also. The objects of this excellent female society are a religions life, works of charity, and self-support. They are subject to cer- tain conventual regulations, and bound to obey their superior ( Groot Jufrouw), but are unfettered by any monastic vow. It is. however, a boast of the order that very few of their number avail themselves of their liberty to return to the world. There are at present twenty be'guinages in Belgium, with about 1600 members. The Beguinage of Ghent, the most important in Belgium, forms a little town of itself, with streets, squares, and gates, and is enclosed by walls and moats, which are crossed by six bridges. It contains 103 small houses , 18 convents , a large and a small church. The Sisters, about 700 in number, many of them per- sons of rank and property, attend Vespers daily in the church. The traveller should not omit to be present at one of these services. The scene is very impressive. The Sisters all wear black robes (failles), and a white linen covering on their heads. Novices have a different dress, whilst those who have recently been admitted to the order wear a wreath round their heads. The doors of the houses in which the Sisters reside , sometimes alone , sometimes several together , are inscribed with the names of their tutelary saints. Lace-making is the principal occupation of the Be'guines, beauti- ful specimens of whose work may be purchased at the magazine, or of the portress, at more reasonable prices than in the town. The Maison de Force (PI. 37), or 'House of Detention", near the Bruges Gate, is a penitentiary of European celebrity. It is in the form of an octagon, with nine courts in the interior, com- municating with each other by strong gates. The prison (1200 convicts) constitutes an extensive factory, where the inmates are chiefly employed in manufacturing linen for the use of the army. The lower chambers are destined for prisoners condemned to penal servitude for life. Part of the building is fitted up as a hospital, with a laboratory, bath-room, etc. Discipline and clean- liness are everywhere rigorously maintained. A portion of the profits yielded by the prisoners' work is set apart for them. If industrious, they may earn 20 — 30 fr. in a year. In order to prevent the possibility of bribery . zinc tokens are used instead of money within the precincts of the prison. The building, which can accommodate 2600 convicts, was begun under Maria Theresa in 1772. but not completed until 1825. It was once 48 Route 6. GHENT. Marche de Vendredi. visited by Howard, the English philanthropist, and strongly recommended by him as a model for imitation. In consequence of the trouble formerly occasioned by crowds of visitors, access cannot now be obtained without permission from the Minister of Justice at Brussels. Professional men, however (physicians, jud- ges, professors, etc-.), are admitted by applying at the Hotel du Gouvernement at Ghent. — The new Prison for solitary confine- ment, on the new promenade outside the Bruges Gate, containing 368 cells, is also worthy of inspection. On the r. bank of the Coupure, a canal completed in 1758, connecting the Ley with the great Bruges Canal, is situated the Casino (PI. 11), nearly opposite to the Penitentiary. This hand- some building, erected in 1836, is employed for the biennial flower-shows of the Botanical Society (Maetschappy van Kruid- kunde). Ghent , not without reason surnamed 'La Reine des Fleurs' , has a specialty for horticulture , and annually exports whole cargoe,". of camellias, azalias, orange-trees and other hothouse plants to Holland, Germany, France, Italy, and even Russia. There are 62 nursery -gardens and upwards of 400 hothouses in the environs of the city. The visitor should now return into the city and proceed to the Marche de Vendredi (Vrydagmarkt) (F\. 36), an extensive square surrounded by antiquated buildings. The most important events in the history of Ghent have taken place here. Homage was here done to the Counts of Flanders on their accession , in a style of magnificence unknown at the present day, after they had sworn : ^ali de bestaende wetten , voorregten , vryheden en yewooten van't graefschap en van de stad Gent te onderhouden en te doen onder- houden' (to maintain and cause to be maintained all the existing laws, privileges, freedoms, and customs of the County and of the city of Ghent). Here the members of the mediaeval guilds , 'ces tttes dures de Flandre' , as Ch-arles V. termed his countrymen, frequently assembled to avenge some real or imaginary infringe- ment of their rights, and here the standard of revolt was inva- riably erected. One of the most disastrous civic broils took place here in 1341 , when Gerhard Denys at the head of his party, which consisted chiefly of weavers, attacked his opponents the fullers with such fury that even the elevation of the host failed to separate the combatants, of whom upwards of 500 were slain. Marche de Vendredi. GHENT. 6. Route. 49 Jacques van Artevelde, the celebrated 'Brewer of Ghent" (see be- low), then in power, was afterwards assassinated by Denys. This fatal day was subsequently entered in the civic calendar as ^Kwaede Maendag' (Wicked Monday). In this square, too. Philip van Artevelde. son of Jacques, received the oath of fidelity from his fellow -citizens (1381), when urged by them to lead them against their sovereign, Count Louis 'van Maele". Jacques van Artevelde, the celebrated -Brewer of Ghent', was a clever and ambitious demagogue , who is said to have caused himself to be enrolled as a member of the Guild of Brewers in order to ingratiate him- self with the lower classes, though himself of noble family; but of the lat- ter nothing is known, and it is more probable that he was really of humble origin. He was a powerful ally of Edward III. in the war between England and France (1335— 4oj, in which the democratic party of Ghent supported the former , and the Counts of Flanders the latter ; and it is recorded that Ed- ward condescended to flatter him by the familiar title of 'dear gossip*. For 7 years Artevelde reigned supreme at Ghent, putting to death all who had the misfortune to displease him, banishing all the nobles and those who betrayed any symptom of attachment to their sovereign, and appointing magistrates who were the mere slaves of his will. Artevelde at length pro- posed that the son of Edward should be elected Count of Flanders, a scheme so distasteful to the Ghenters, that an insurrection broke out, in which Jacques was slain, Aug. 19tb, 1345. During this period, in consequence of the alliance with Ghent, the manufacture of wool became more extensively known and practised in England. Ghent also realised vast profits from its trade with England, a circumstance which induced the citizens to submit so long to the despotic rule of Jacques , to whom they were indebted for their advantageous alliance with Edward. Philip van Artevelde, son of Jacques, and godson of Queen Phi- lippa of England, possessed all the ambition, but little of the talent of his father. When he was appointed dictator by the democratic party in 1381, during the civil war against Count Louis, he accepted the office with a show of the utmost reluctance and diffidence. His administration was at first salutary and judicious , but he soon began to act with all the caprice of a despot. In 1381 , when Ghent was reduced to extremities by famine, and the citizens had resolved to surrender, Philip counselled them to make a final venture , rather than submit to the humiliating conditions ofl^ered by the Count. He accordingly marched at the head of 5000 men to Bruges, where Louis, who sallied forth to meet them , was signally defeated and himself narrowly escaped capture. Elated beyond measure by this success, Philip now assumed the title of Regent of Flanders, and established himself at Ghent in a style of great pomp and magnificence. His career, however, was brief. In 1383 war again broke out, chiefly owing to the impolitic and arrogant conduct of Philip himself, and Charles VI. of France marched against Flanders. Philip was soon afterwards defeated and slain at the disastrous Battle of Rosselaere, or Rumbeke (p. 24), where 20,000 of the bravest Flemings are said to have perished. Baedeker's Belgium and Holland. 2nd Edit. 4 50 0. Route. GHENT. St. Jacques. During the supremacy of the cruel Duke of Alva, the Marche de Vendredl was the scene of the Auto-da-Fes of the Inquisition, the horrors of which the citizens had in a great measure brought upon themselves by their turbulent and revolutionary disposition. Thousands of them emigrated at that period, and nearly one-hall of the city was left untenanted. A statue of Charles V. stood here till 1796, when it was destroyed by the French sansculottes. In 1863 it was replaced by a *Statue of Jacques van Artevelde, by Devigne-Quyo. A survey of the principal towers of the city is obtained from the N. side of the market. In the corner of a street on the W. side of the Marche' de Vendredi is placed a huge Cannon, termed the ^Dulle Griete' (Mad Meg), 19 ft. long, and nearly 3 ft. wide at the mouth (resembling 'Mons Meg' in the Castle of Edinburgh). Above the touch-hole is the Burgundian Cross of St. Andrew, with the arms- of Philip the Good; the piece must therefore have been cast between 1419 and 1467. It is said to have been employed at the siege of Oudenaerde in 1452. The arsenals of Bale and Soleure certain cannons of similar shape, which formed part of the Burgundian booty taken by the Swiss. At the back of the E. side of the Marche de Vendredi rises the Church of St. Jacques (PI. 20), said to have been founded in 1100. The present edifice dates from the end of the 15th, or beginning of the 16th cent., but the towers are perhaps older. It contains nothing worthy of note except an excellent picture by Jan Maes, representing the Departure of the youthful Tobias (probably the best work of the master, who was a native of Ghent), and two pictures of Apostles by Van Huffel. The Botanical Garden {Plantentuin , PI. 33) , in the imme- diate vicinity, is reputed one of the finest in Europe. It was first established in 1797, and is commonly known as the Baude- loohof. The Victoria Regia is a fine example. The former Bau- deloo Monastery contains the University and Town Library (100,000 vols.; 700 MSS., some of them very rare). The handsome read- ing-room is open to the public. The Kauter (Flem. for 'field'), or Place d'Armes, is the milita- ry esplanade of Ghent, where a band plays on Sunday mornings, when the choicest produce of the numerous hothouses of Ghent and tastefully arranged bouquets may be seen in perfection. GHENT. 7. Route. 51 The house occupied by the brothers John and Hubert van Eyck was on the E. side of the Kauter. They painted their celebrated picture here, and here Hubert died in 1426. The site is now occupied by the Cafe des Arcades, on which the names of the proprietor and the architect are faithfully recorded; but every reminiscence of these illustrious masters is now obliterated. Ka- lenderberg. No. 16, immediately to the 1., was once the residence of Jacques van Artevelde, the great ^Ruwaerd van Vlaendern' (Dictator of Flanders), whose bust, with a French inscription, was placed here in 1845. Ghent, like Antwerp and Brussels, also boasts of a Zoological Garden (PI. 34). near the railway- station (admission 1 fr.). Ghent is connected with the sea by a broad Canal, 18 ft. in depth, by means of which vessels of considerable tonnage are enabled to reach the city and unload in the harbour beneath its walls. The canal, which secures to the city all the advantages^ of a seaport, unites with the Schelde at Temeuzen. At Sas van. Ghent (i. e. 'Sluice of Ghent'), about 12 M. to the N., there are sluices by means of which the whole district can be laid under water. — A second canal connects the Ley with the canal be- tween Bruges and Ostende. Ghent possesses a very beneficial kind of trades-union in the Conseit des PrucC hommes , formed of employers and employed elected annually, who adjust all questions between master and workman, prevent infringe- ment of the rights of manufacturers, and grant certificates to artisans at the close of their apprenticeship, without which documents they are not eligible for any situation. 7. From Ghent to Brussels , to Malines , or to Antwerp. From Ghent to Brussels via Alost in li;4— 2 hrs. ; fares 3 fr. 40, 2 fr. 35, 1 fr. 70 c. — This is the direct route ; that by Malines (which di- verges at Stat. Schellebelle , where carriages must sometimes be changed) occupies •! hr. more. From Ghent to Malines in l^f^— 2i|2 hrs.; fares 3 fr. 25, 2 fr. 25, 1 fr. 65 c. ; no express trains on this part of the line. From Ghent to Aniyv ^vp (Waesland Railicay) inli'4hrs.; fares 41 2- 3, 2 fr. — This is the direct route. Travellers from Ostende or Bru- ges should book to Ghent only , where they take a fresh ticket at the Sta- tion of the Waesland line, 1 31. from that of the government.- railway. The latter line carries passengers round by Malines, a longer route by 3 4 hr., and at higher fares. 4* 52 Route 7. ALOST. The direct Railway to Brussels passes stations Melle. Wetteren (a large village with 9039 inhab.), and Schellebelle, where the line to Malines diverges. Stat. Lede. From Stat. Melle the direct Ghent and Braine-le-Corate Line diverges. Express to Braine-le-Comte in li|-j hr. (4 fr. 30, 2 fr. 95, 2 fr. 15 c), ordinary trains in 2 hrs. (3 fr. 60, 2 fr. 45, 1 fr. 80 c). Stations Melle, Lands- ranter, Moortzeele, Scheldeicindeke, Baeleghem , Sotteghem (line to Brussels see p. 27, to Courtrai see p. 27), Ericetegem, Lierde-Sainte-Marie, and Oram- mont (see above; line to Ath and Alost see above); then Gammerages, He- rinnes, and Enghien (line to Ath , Hal , and Brussels , see R. 19) , Rebecq- Hognon, and Braine-le-Comte (see p. Ii4). Alost, Flem. AeUt(Maison d'Autriche; Pays Bus ^ TroisRois), a town with 13,383 inhab., on the Dendre, was formerly the capital of the Province of Imperial Flanders, and the frontier town of the County in this direction. The Church of St. Martin, commenced in a very imposing style, is little more than a mere fragment: two-thirds of the nave , as well as the tower and portal , are entirely wanting. It contains an admirable picture by Rubens. said to have been painted in 1631 in one week, The Prayer ot St. Rochus for the cessation of the plague. The arrangement of the picture is the same as that of Rubens' work in St. Bavon at Ghent; above, Christ and St. Rochus; below, the effects of the plague. Copy of this picture in the museum at Ghent, see p. 46. Alost carries on a considerable hop-trade. Chimes were invented here , and printing was practised at Alost earlier than in any other town in Belgium. A statue was erected to Thierry MaertenSj the first Belgian printer, in 1856. At stat. Denderleeuw the train crosses the Dendre. Stat. Ter- nuth is a small town in a district of a very Dutch aspect. Hops are extensively cultivated in the neighbourhood. As the train approaches Brussels , it skirts the park and grounds of the royal chateau of Laeken (p. 84). Farther on, immediately to the 1. of the line , is the Mausoleum of the late Queen of the Belgians (d. 1850), in the form of a small Gothic church. The train crosses the Senne, and a few minutes later enters the station of Srussels, see p. 56. Ghent to Malines. To stat, Schellebelle^ see above. Beyond stat. Audeghem the train crosses the Dendre. The next impor- tant place is stat. Dendermonde , Fr. Termonde (Plat d'Etain; Aigle; Demi-Lune) , a small fortified town (8160 inhab.) at the ST. NICOLAS. 7. Route. 5^ 'confluence of the Dendre and Scheldt. Louis XIV. besieged this pla^e with a considerable army in 1667, but was compelled to retreat, as the besieged by opening certain sluices laid the whole district under water. The Emp. Joseph II. caused the fortifica- tions to be dismantled in 1784, but they were reconstructed in 1822. The old church of :SotTe Dame possesses two good pic- tures by Van Dyck, a Crucifixion, and Adoration of the Shep- herds; also a work by De Crayer, and several ancient fonts. The train stops at several unimportant stations , beyond which the Senne and the Louvain Canal are crossed. Malines, see p. 106. From Ghent to Antwerp. This line traverses the Wae s- land (Pays de Waes), one of the most populous, and at the same time most highly cultivated and produc;ive districts in Europe. At the time of the civil wars in Flanders the Waesland was a sterile moor, but at the present day every square yard of gromid is utilized. The train traverses arable land . pastures, garden?, woods, and plantations in rapid succession , whilst comfortable farm-houses and thriving villages are seen at intervals. It is said that the attention usually devoted to a garden or a flower- bed is here given to every field; for the natural soil, being little better than sand, requires to be artificially covered with garden- sofl. The agriculture of this tract enjoys a European celebrity, and is worthy of the notice of farmers. In other respects the country is uninteresting. Stat. Lokeren (MiroirJ, with 17,000 inhab. , possesses a church (St. Lawrence) which contains numerous old and modern works of art ; extensive bleaching- grounds in the vicinity. Stat. St. Nicolas (Quatre Sceaux), with 23,900 inhab., is the busiest and most industrial town in the Waesland. One of the churches contains well exe- cuted mural paintings by the eminent Antwerp artists Giiffens and Swerts, representing the Seven Sorrows of the Virgin. Stat. Be- veren, a wealthy village with 6999 inhab., is noted for the lace it produces. Flamsch-Hoofd . or Tete de Flandre , the tete-de- pont of Antwerp, lies on the 1. bank of the Schelde, where a steam ferry-boat awaits the arrival of the train. Napoleon I. con- sidered this a more favourable site than that of Antwerp on the r. bank, and contemplated founding a town here. 54 Route 8. CALAIS. During the siege of Antwerp (1832) the Dutch succeeded- in cutting through the embankment above Tete-de-Flandre , in con- sequence of which the entire surrounding district, lying consider- ably below high-water mark , was laid under water to a depth of 4 ft, , and remained so for three years. Twelve Dutch gunboats <-ruised over the fields and canals, cutting off all communication with the city in this direction. The rise and fall of the tide co- hered a vast area with sand; and the once productive soil, becom- ing saturated with salt-water, was converted into a dreary waste. Those parts from which the water was not thoroughly drained tecame unhealthy swamps , a disastrous result of the war felt most keenly in the environs of the city, where land was of great -value. Enormous sums were expended on the work of restoration: the repair of the embankment alone cost 2 mill, francs. Almost every trace of the calamity is now happily obliterated. Antwerp, see p. 110. 8. From London to Brussels via Calais. Via Dover and Calais Brussels is reached in IOVI2— U hrs. from "London. Sea-passage l>|2-2 hrs. — Fares: 2 1. iOs. iid. and il. lis. 8 rf. — Luggage registered at London is not examined till the traveller arrives at Brussels. London to Calais by Gen, Steam Xav. Go's steamer 6 times monthly in 10— 12 hrs. ; actual sea-passage 4— 5 hrs. — Fares to Calais 11 5. and 8s. — Passengers' luggage is examined on arriving at Calais. From Calais to Brussels in 5—7 hrs. ; fares 23 fr., 17 fr. 25, 11 fr. 40 c. — (From London to Brussels via Dover and Ostende 2 1. Is. iOcl. and il. 14*. id.; by Gen. Steam. Kav. Co. 11. 3s. Sd. and IBs. 10c/. — Comp. RR. 1, 6, 7.) CalaiB (Hotel du Buffet, at the station, conveniently situated; UOtel iJessein and Hotel Meurice in the town, both of the first class. Hotels de Paris, de Londres, de Flandre, etc, of the se- cond class. Two English Churches, one at Calais itself, the other in the Basse Ville), a fortified town with 15,475 inhab. , is an unattractive place, where few travellers will make a voluntary stay. The N. side is bounded by the Bassin h Flot, the Fort de L'Echouage, and the Bassin du Paradis. To the r, of the latter is situated the suburb of Courgain, inhabited exclusively by a fishing and sea-faring community. The Quai de Marie affords a pleasant walk. The white cliffs of the English coast are visible in clear ■weather. The English residents at Calais number nearly 2000, LILLE. 8. Route. 55 although they have comparatively deserted the town since the days of railways. Many of them are manufacturers of lace and merchants. St. Omer, the first important station, is an uninteresting forti- fied town with 25.000 inhab. ; environs flat and marshy, but not considered unhealthy. The Cathedral is a fine structure in the transition style. The English Rom. Catholic Seminary here, at which OConnell was educated, is now almost deserted. A consi- derable number of English families reside at St. Omer for pur- poses of retrenchment and education. English Church and resident •chaplain. — Stat. Hazehrouck is the junction of this line with the railways N, to Dunkirck, and S. to Amiens and Paris. Lille, Flem. Ryssel (Hotel del'Europe: Paris; Bellevue ; Com- merce; Chemin de Fer, etc. — English Church), an important manufacturing town with 131.827 inhab., and surrounded by for- tifications, contains little to interest travellers. The staple com- modities of the place are thread, calico , lace, beetroot sugar, and oil. The Hotel de Ville, formerly a palace of the Dukes of Bur- gundy, erected 1430. contains a small collection of pictures. The fortifications were planned by the celebrated Vauban, but portions of them have been demolished to make room for the extension of the city, and replaced by more modern works. Travellers from Lille to Brussels were formerly conveyed either by Douai , Valenciennes, and Mons , or by Courtray and Ghent. The direct route is now by Tournai and Ath (in 2^/4 his.). The country between Lille and Tournai (p. 28), which is the first Belgian town on the line, presents no attractions. Beyond Tournai the undulating and well-cultivated province of Hainault is traversed. Mont St. Aubert (p. 31) long remains conspicuous to the 1. Stat. Leuze, a small town on the Dendre , possesses a large silk-factory. Stat. Ligne, an unimportant place, gives a title to the princely family of that name. Stat. Ath (Cygne; Paon d'Or; Hotel de Bruxelles; Hotel de I'UniversJ, on the Dendre, formerly a fortress, with 8206 inhab., contains nothing to detain the traveller. The Hotel de Ville was erected in 1600. The church of St. Julian, founded in 1393. was re-erected in 1817 after a conflagration. The Tour du Bur- bant, the most ancient structure in the town, dates from 1150. Beloeil, the celebrated chateau and estate of the Prince de Ligne, which lias been in possession of the family upwards of 500 years , lies about 6 M. 56 Rente 9. BRUSSELS. tti the S. of Ath. The grandfather of the present proprietor, the well known talented general and statesman , gives a long account in his letters of this estate with its park and gardens. Delille, in his poem 'Les Jardins', de- scribes Beloeil as '■tout it la fois magniirque et champ^tre." The chateau con- tains numerous curiosities of artistic, as well as historical interest; a con- siderable library, with many rare MSS. ; admirable pictures by Diirer, IIol- f'ein. Van Dyck, Velasquez, Leonardo da Vinci, Michael Angelo, Salvator Rosa, and a number of modern artists ; relics (fragments of the 'True Cross' and the 'Crown of Thorns'), and numerous gifts presented to members of the family by emperors and kings, from Charles V. to Napoleon I. Access to the chateau is rarely denied by the noble proprietor. Stat. Enghien, the next important place on the line , a small town with 3000 inhab., possesses a chateau of the Due d'Arem- herg, with pleasant park and gardens. Stat. Hal (Hotel des Pays- Bas), a town situated on the Senne and the canal of Charlerol^ with 7613 inhab., is celebrated throughout Belgium as a place of pious resort, on account of the miracle-working image of the Vir- gin which it possesses in the church of Notre Dame , an edifice in the purest Gothic style. The church possesses numerous costly treasures presented by Emp. Maximilian I., Charles Y., Pope Ju- lius II., Henry VIII. of England, the Burgundian Dukes, and the Spanish governors. The altar is a fine work in alabaster, of the Renaissance style, date 1533. The font, in bronze, was cast in 1446. A monument in black marble with the figure of a sleeping child is dedicated to the memory of the son of Louis XI. , wha died in 1460. Another chapel contains 33 cannon-balls , caught and rendered harmless by the robes of the wonder-working im- age during a siege of the town. — Several small stations, then. Brussels. 9. Brussels. French Bruxelles. Hotels in the xipper part of the to%vn, near the park: *Bellevue, de Flandre, de I'Europe, all in the Place Royale; Hotel de France, Rue Royale, opposite the central Entrance to the Park. Hotel Mengelle, Rue Royale 75: de la Regence, and Windsor, both in the Rue de la Re'gence near the Place Royale. All these hotels are well situated , hand- somely fitted up, and somewhat expensive: R. 3—10 fr. , D. 4—6, L. 1, A. 1 fr. In the lower part of the town: Hotel de Suede, Rue de TEveque; de rUnivers; de I'Empereur: "de Saxe, starting-point of the Waterloo coaches (p. 86), the two latter hotels in the Rue ^'euve , leading from the Station du Nord into the town. Hotel des Etrangers, Rue des Fripiers; deHollande, an old-fashioned house, Rue de la Putterici; , (.r/2' fl U VMfn/a/S'/ra/i C] '1 i Regale JaFan^ EfcJ e -' - c ^-#^-- ^^^ ^V^^- BRUSSELS. 9. Route. 57 de Brabant, Marche aux Charbons; Hotel Royal. Rue Fosse' aux Loups. Charges: R. 2—4, D. 3—4. L. and A. li,2-2"fr. — Of the Second eiass: 'Hotel de la Poste. Rue Fosse aux Loups 4S; Grand Monar- que, Rue des Fripiers 17; Pay-Bas, Rue de I'Hopital 16; Grand Mi - roir, Rue de la Montagne 28; Groenendael, Rue de la Putterie ; 'Ho- tel Callo, Rue des Bouchers 27 . unpretending; *H6tel deVienne, Rue de la Fourche. — In the Quartier Leopold , near the Luxembourg sta- tion, Hotel du Pelican and St. Michel, both of the second class. — A number of pensions like those in Switzerland have also recently sprung up: Grand Hotel Britannique, Place du Trone 3; Hotel de Fa- mill e. Place du Luxembourg 17, etc. Restaurants. A Hard, Rue Fosse aux Loups, near the theatre; Ro- cher de Cancale in the same street; -Dubost, Rue de la Putterie 23; Prince of Wales, Rue Villa Hermosa 8; Globe Tavern, Place Royale; Lon don Tavern and Cafe Riche, Rue de I'Ecuyer; Victo- ria , Rue des Fripiers ; Cafe des Boulevards, Place des Xations; *Puth , Rue du Tir 20, Faubourg de Xamur; -Liegeois, opposite the Station du yord; Hotel de la Monnaie, opposite the theatre. Cafes. MilleColonnes, Suisse, and T r o i s S u i s s e s , all in the Place de la Monnaie, and resembling the great Parisian cafes. Marugg Rue Treurenberg, good ices; also at Marchal's (' VauxhaW) in the Park, N. E. corner, where a band plays every evening in summer. English beer may be obtained at all these establishments. Bavarian at Puth's (see above). — Belgian beer (Faro, Loiivain, and Lambicq) is largely consumed by the natives, but will probably be found very unpalatable by the traveller. The £sily, with St. Theresa and St. Catherine; 135. Veronese, Entombment; 131. Veronese, Adoration of the Shep- herds; 238. Raphael Menys , Portrait of Michael Angelo; 233. Manfredi, Adulteress; 278. Guido Reni, Flight into Egypt; under it, 281, and 282. Tintoretto, Portraits (erroneously attributed to Titian); 234. Maratti, Apollo and Daphne. — 3rd Div.: *320. Steen, Festival of the Epiphany; 205. Van der Heist, Portrait of himself; 318. Steen, Reading aloud; 140. Ph. de Champaignej St. Ambrose; *l>e Keyset, Portraits of two old women; 239. Metzu, Midday meal; 277. Rembrandt, Portrait; above it, 108. Backhuysen, Storm on the Norwegian coast; *186. Low, Portrait of himself (drawing a Cupid by lamplight; a picture sad to have been purchased for 25,000 fr.); 348. Wouverman, Hunting scene; 293. Rubens, Martyrdom of St. Ursula, a sketch ; under it ; Van de Velde, Sea-piece; *325. Tenters, Yillage doctor (purchased in 1861 for 15,510 fr.); *Weenix, Dead game; 338. Veen, Betro- thal of St. Catherine; 260. Ostade, Repose; 121. Bol, Portrait; 244, 245. Molenaer, Interiors of Flemish cottages, two small pic- tures; 298. i?i/cfea€rf, Alchemist; 345. Weenix, Dutch l&dy, *167. De Crayer, Draught of fishes (the museum possesses about twelve of this master's works); 191. Van P>yck, Vision of St. Francis; 188. Van Dyck, Martyrdom of St. Peter; 190. Van Dyck, St. Antony and the Infant Jesus; *180. Cuyp, Cattle-shed; adjoining it, *Ruysdael, Stormy sea; 319. Steen, Quack. — 4th Div.: 294, 295. Rubens, Portraits of Archduke Albert and his consort Isabella; 292. Rubens, Venus in the work-shop of Vulcan; *192. Van Dyck, Portrait of the Burgomaster Dellafa lie of Antwerp; 152. Ph. de Champaigne, Portrait of himself; 314. Snyders, Dead game and fruit; 219. Jordaens, Tr umph of Prince Fred. Henry of Orange; 189. Van Dyck, Drunken Silenus ; 119, 120. Boly Portraits; 171. De Cruyer, St. Paul and St. Antony; 193. Ph. van Dyck, Lady at her toilet. — The passage to the r. leads to the library. In the following room: 196. Fr. Floris (de Vriendt), Last Judgment, a large picture with wings (the figure rising from the grave, from which Time removes the stone, is a portrait of the painter). — Three saloons with pictures of earlier Nether- lands masters are next entered. 1st Saloon: 29. Martin Schan UniveTsity. BRUSSELS. 9. Route. 71 (Germ. School), Jesus is shown to the people; Rogier van der ^Veyden (?), Portrait of Charles the Bold (?). — 2nd S. : *13. John van Eyrk, Adara and Eve, two wings of the celebrated Ado- ration of the Immaculate Lamb in St. Bavon at Ghent (see p. 38), sold to the government by the town as being unsuitable pictures for a church. In addition to the price, the Ghenters also receiv- ed the excellent copies by Michael Coxcie of the six wings at Berlin. — 3rd S. : 14. J. van Eyck , Adoration of the Magi (under glass); *25. B. van Orley, Dead Christ mourned over by his friends, a winged picture wiih the donor and his family; 15. J. van Mnbuse, Christ in the honual size. The mineralogical department comprises a considerable coLeciion of minerals from Russia, presented by the Prince of Orange; also a very complete collection of the volcanic products of Mt. Vesuvius and of the fossils from the caverns of Mastrlcht (p. 182). Ad- mission daily, 10 — 3 o'clock. Above the Natural Hist. Collect on, on the second floor, there is a Galerie Bistorique, contain ng p ctures and bu^ts which bear reference to events or persons of importance in the history of Belgium, many of them of considerable art stic merit. Admi.sioii daily, except Mond. and Thursd., 10—3 o'clock. The University (PI. 46), one of the universites libres (p. 172), is establ shed in the former palace of Cardinal Granvella, Rue des Sols, near the Palais de Tlndustrie. It was founded by a com- pany of shareholders of the liberal party in 1834, in order to act as an equipoise to the Rom. Catholic University of Louvain (p. 163). It comprises the four faculties of philosophy, natural science, jurisprudence, and medic-ne, and a separate pharmaceutical insti- tution. The number of students is about 500 , and the staff of professors 43. The court is adorned wi.h a Statue of Verhaegens. 72 Route 9. BRUSSELS. Palais Aremberg. (d. 1862), one of the founders, who as the inscription records, presented a donation of 100,000 fr. to the funds. A few paces from the university, in the same street, is situat- ed the handsome new Chapelle de I' Expiation, an iron structure erected by a number of devout ladies of Brussels as an 'expiation' for a theft of the host from the Cathedral of St. Gudule , com- mitted in the middle ages. If the traveller now return to the Place Royale and follow the street to the r. (S.), he will soon reach the Eglise du Sablon. or Notre Dame des Victoires (PI. 12), which was founded shortly after the Battle of Worringen (in 1288), to commemorate the victory gained on that occasion by Duke John I. of Brabant over the Count of Guelders and the Archbishop of Cologne. The ad- mirable N. Portal of the present structure dates from the 14th, the other parts from the 15tb and 16th centuries. A tablet of black marble in the S. transept recoids that the remains of the author Jean Baptiste Rousseau , who died in exile at Brussels in 1741, were transferred hither in 1842 from the church des Petits-Carmes (see below). The adjacent 1st Chapel on the S. side contains the monument of Count Flaminio Gamier, secretary of the Duke of Parma , consisting of six reliefs in alabaster from the life of the Virgin. The 3rd Chapel on the S. contains a monu- ment erected in 1856 to the Marquis de Voghera (d. 1781), commanding general of the Austrian forces in the Netherlands. The burial-chapel of the Princes of Thurn and Taxis , in the N. transept, is sumptuously adorned with black and white marble, with sculptures of no artistic merit. A St. Ursula on the altar, by Duquesnoy , merits attention. The dome of this chapel is embellished with numerous gilded armorial bearings of the family. The church contains several pictures of little value. The best is a Last Judgment by Fr. Floris. A few old Flemish pictures are preserved in the Sacristy. The Palace of the Due d'Aremberg (PI. 21), situated in the same Place ( Petit- Sablon , or Kleyne Zaevelplaets) , erected in 1548, restored in 1753, with modern r. wing, was once the re- sidence of the celebrated Count Egmont. It contains a small, choice picture-gallery, comprising a fine example of every well- known Netherlands master. Admission is . however, sometimes denied. On the wall of the staircase, a cast of Lorenzo Ghibertii Les Petits Carmes. BRUSSELS. 9. Route. 73 celebrated bronze doors of the Baptistery at Florence, representing the Days of the Creation. The pictures are all in excellent pre- servation, and furnished with the names of the artists : Rembrandt, Tobias restoring sight to his father; G. Dow. Old woman sitting at a table covered with gold ; H. Berckheyden, Inner court of the Exchange at Amsterdam ; Brouwer, Interior of a tavern"; Jan van der Meer , Young girl: P. Potter, Rest in a barn; Jan Steen, Marriage at Cana (purchased by the Duchesse de Berry in 1837 for 21,000 fr.); A. van Ostade, Interior of a tavern (purchased in 1838 for 13,000 fr.); Everdingen, Waterfall: Jordaens, 'Zoo de ouden zongen . zoo piepen de jongen" (when the old quarrel, the young squeak); Gortzius Geldorp, Portrait of the theologian Corn. Jansen (p. 28); Tenters, Playing at bowls; Van Craesbeke, His own studio. Another saloon, not connected with the above, is set apart for the works of the earlier masters : Madonna with saints, attributed by Dr. Waagen to J. van Eyck; pictures by Martin Schljn , Coningsloo , Mabuse , Patenier , etc. The other apartments contain magnificent ancient and modern furniture ; Etruscan vases, antique statuettes, busts in marble. The library contains a cast (the original is at one of the duke's country-resi- dences) of the admirable head of a Laocoon . found about the year 1710 under a bridge in Florence, and purchased by an an- cestor of the duke (a cast of the head of the well-known Roman Laocoon is placed beside it for comparison). An offer of 180.000 fr. for this head by King Lewis of Bavaria is said to have been re- jected. The spacious and handsome riding-school, which can be converted into a ball-room on festive occasions, is employed as a conservatory in winter. The adjoining Gardens are kept in admirable order (fee 1 fr.). A few houses above the palace, to the 1., is the prison Les Petits Cannes (PI. 34), the front of which was constructed in 1847 in the Engl. Gothic style. It is fitted up with cells for solitary confinement. A Carmelite monastery, removed in 1811, formerly occupied this site. Somewhat higher up stood the house of Count Kuylenburg, memorable under Philip II. as the place of assembly of the nobles of the Netherlands who began the struggle against the supremacy of Spain. Here on AprU 6th, 1566, they signed a petition {• Request') to the vicegerent Mar- garet of Parma (natural daughter of Charles V. and sister of 74 Route 9. BRUSSELS. Palais de Justice. Philip II.), praying for the abolition of the inquisitorial courts, after which between three and four hundred of the confederates proceeded on horseback to the palace of the Duchess. At the moment when the petition was presented, Count Barlaimont, one of the courtiers of the princess, whose apprehensions had been awakened by the sudden appearance of the cortege, whispered to her, 'Madame, ce nest qu'wrie troupe de gueux' (i. e. beggars), in allusion to their supposed want of money. The epithet was overheard , and rapidly communicated to the whole party , who afterwards chose it for the name of their faction. On the same evening several of their number, among whom was Count Brede- rode , attired as a mendicant with a wooden goblet (jatte) in his hand, appeared on the balcony of the residence of Count Kuylen- burg and drank success to the 'Gueux', while each in token of his co-operation struck a nail into the goblet. The spark, thus kindled , soon burst into a flame , and a few years later caused the N. provinces of the Netherlands to be severed from the do- minions of Spain. The Duke of Alva, in order to gratify his indignation, subsequently caused the above-mentioned house, where Counts Egmont and Hoorne had been arrested, and the flag of Spain again di-played, to be rased to the ground. The Grand Sablon (Groote Zaevelplaets') , the most spacious Place in the city, is adorned with an insignificant monument erect- ed by the Marquis ot Aylesbury in 1751 , in recognition of the hospitality accorded to him at Brussels. Minerva is represented with the images of Francis I. and Maria Theresa; on the r. the goddess of Fame, on the 1. the Schelde; beneath, the arms of the founder. The Palais de Justice (PI. 30), an unattractive and grim-look- ing edifice, entered from the Rue de Ruysbroeck, stands on the N. side of the Grand Sablon. It was formerly a Jesuit monastery. The portico in front is an imitation of the temple of Agrippa at Rome. The hall of the Cour de Cassation contains two remarkably fine modern historical pictures: the *Abdication of the Emp. Charles V. (see p. 78), by Oallait , a master-piece of richness of composition , combined with harmony of colour and excellence of arrangement; and the *Compromise (1565), or Petition of the Belgian Kobles , by E. deBiefve, the different figures in which are admirable, but the composition and colouring inferior. Count Notre Dame. BRUSSELS. 9. Route. 75 Hoorne is represented as signing the document, Egmont in an arm- chair; at the table Philip de Marnix , in a suit of armour; in the foreground William of Orange, in a blue robe; beside him, Martigny in white satin , and behind him the Due d'Aremberg. Count Brederode, beneath the portico to the 1., is inviting others to embrace the good cause. In the picture by Gallait Charles V. is represented at the foot of the throne, leaning with his left hand on William of Orange; before him kneels his son Philip II, ; on the r. is his sister Mary of Hungary in an arm-chair, on the 1. Cardinal Granvella. The Palais de Justice also contains the Archives of the kingdom. The Cour de Cassation sits on Thursd.. Frid., and Sat., 10 — 2 o'clock, when the public are admitted. Access obtained at other times (also during the vacation, Aug. loth to Oct. loth) by applying to the concierge (fee 50 c). In the Hoogstraet, or Rue Haute , in the immediate vicinity, is situated * Notre Dame de la Chapelle (PI. 7). a Gothic basilica, the posterior part of which was erected in the 12th, the facade in the 15th cent. To the r. of the entrance from the Rue Haute is the Chapel of the Trinity, decorated in 1852 with admirable mural * paintings by J. B. van Eycken (d. 1853). On the 1. is an embodiment of the text: 'Come unto Me, ye that labour and are heavy laden ! ' On the vaulting the eight Beatitudes. On the r. three female figures on a gold ground: in the centre Queen Louise Marie (d. 1850), 1. the Duchess Johanna of Bra- bant (d. 1406), r. the Infanta Isabella (d. 1633), three princesses who von the love and esteem of the citizens of Brussels by their amiable and benevolent dispositions. A large oil-painting opposite, by the same master, represents Slaves liberated by the Christian Religion. The other chapels are embellished with a * series of pictures from the history of the Passion , also executed by Van Eyckev, well worthy of notice, both as fine examples of modern ait in Belgium, and as a proof of the public taste for such com- positions. The second Chapel on the S. contains the tomb of the painter Peter Breughel . with a picture by that master (on the wall above: Christ giving the Keys to Peter). In the 4th Chapel, *Christ appearing to Mary Magdalene, by De Grayer. Adjoin ng the W. entrance is the monument of the painter Lens (d. 1822), by Godecharles. The 1st Chapel of the N. aisle con- tains the tomb of the painter Sturm (d. at Rome, 1844), with 76 Route 9. BRUSSELS. Porte de Hal. portrait in a medallion by Teuerlinckx. In the N. transept. Healing of the man possessed with a devil, by Van Eycken. In the N. Chapel of the choir a monument of the Spinola family. On the pillar a monument , with bust , to Duke Alex, de Croy (d. 1624). A tablet of black marble at the back of the pillar bears a long Latin inscription to the memory of Francis Anneessens, ^ citizen of Brussels, and magistrate of the quarter of St. Nicholas, who was executed in the Grand Marche in 1719 for presuming to defend the privileges of the city and guilds against the en- croachments of the Austrian governor (the Marquis de Prie'). — High altar-piece: Miracles of St. Boniface, by Van Eycken. N. side -altar, Intercession for souls in Purgatory, by De Crayer. S. side-altar, S. Carlo Borromeo administering the sacrament to persons sick of the plague, by De Crayer. The carving on the pulpit, by Plumiers, represents Elijah in the wilderness. The Rue Haute is terminated towards the E. by the Porte de Hal (PI. 27), the sole remnant of the former fortifications. It was erected in 1381, and two centuries later became the Bastille of Alva during the Belgian 'reign of terror'. The walls having long since disappeared , and the fosse recently filled up, the old gateway now stands in an open space, a solitary relic of the middle ages. The gateway contains a * Collection of Weapons and Antiquities, open to the public on Sundays, 11 — 4 o'clock, at other times by payment of a fee (1 fr.). On the first floor are weapons of every description and suits of armour; a richly orna- mented helmet is said to have belonged to Charles V. ; the stuff- ed horses are those ridden in 1596 by the Governor Archduke Albert of Austria and his consort Isabella on the occasion of their public entry into Brussels; in the window-recess, artillery im- plements found in a well at the castle of Bouvigne (p. 153), into which they had been thrown, together with the defenders of the stronghold, by the French in 1554. — On the second floor a number of mediaeval and modern objects are preserved ; opposite the door is an altar-piece in carved wood, executed in 1530, representing in six sections the martyrdom of St. Ludgerus and St. Agnes; a font of 1149; tapestry of the 15th and 16th cent., on one piece of which the Battle of Nieuport (1600) is represent- ed ; the cradles of Charles of Lorraine and Charles V. ; court- dress of James II. of England; model of the Bastille at Paris; Hotel de Ville. BRUSSELS. 9. Route. 77 the celebrated Diptychon Leodiense , two tablets of carved ivory executed at the commencement of the 6th cent. , and recently- purchased for 20,000 fr. — The third floor contains Greek and Roman antiquities; ethnographical objects, such as the cast of an Assyrian obelisk, the mummy of a priestess in its original coffin, the cloak and bow of Montezuma, emperor of Mexico. — The well-arranged catalogue (1 fr.) contains a list of 6000 objects. A short distance hence, farther down the Boulevard, rises (r.} the Blind Asylum, an elegant structure with walls and half Gothic tower in imitation of a mediaeval style , designed by Cluysenaer. It is the property of the Philanthropic Society of Brussels. The *H6tel de VUle (PI. 20), situated in the Grand' Place in the lower part of the town, is by far the most remarkable edifice in Brussels, and one of the noblest and most beautiful examples of Belgian town -halls. The magnificent facade was completed in 1442. The sculptures and mouldings were seriously mutilated by the sansculottes in 1792, but restored in 1853 by Jacquet. The graceful Tower, 386 ft. in height, which however does not rise from the centre of the edifice, was completed about 1450. The first niche is filled with a statue of the architect Jan van Euysbroeck (d. about 1482). The figure of the Archangel Michael, which serves as a vane on the summit of the spire, is of gilded bronze, 18 ft. in height, but apparently of much smaller dimensions when seen from below. It was executed by Martin van Rode in 1454. The tower should be ascended in the after- noon (about 4 p. m.j. The view is very extensive. The Lion on the field of Waterloo is distinctly recognised beyond the dark Foret de Soignes (p. 98). The Concierge (fee 1 fr.), who lives in the passage at the back, shows the interior of the Hotel de Ville, which should be visited in the afternoon , as the municipal authorities hold their sessions here in the forenoon. In the W. entrance of the court is placed a large picture by Stallaert . representing the death of Eberhard T'serclaes (1388), a magistrate of Brussels. On the first floor, the Defeat at Chalons (451), by Coomans. The corridors are hung with portraits of former sovereigns, among whom are Maria Theresa, Francis II., Joseph II., Charles VI., Charles II. of Spain, etc.; in the following passage, the Em- 78 Route 9. BRUSSELS. Halle au Pain. peror Charles V. , Philip III. of Spain , Philip IV. , Archduke Albert and his consort Isabella, Charles II. of Spain, and Phi- lip II. , the latt.T in the robe of the Golden Fleece. In the spacious Salle des Mariages^ where the civil part of the marriage ceremony is performed, Counts Egmont and Horn (or Hoorne) were condemned to death in 1568. The abdication of Emp. Charle« V. is sometimes stated also to have taken place in this saloon (1556), but it is well ascertained that the scene of that event was the old ducal palace in the Place Royale, burned down in 1731. The abdication is represented on a piece of Tapestry in the coun- cil-hall: in front is Charles V., beside him Mary of Hungary, before him Philip II. , in the background Alva in a red cloak. Another piece represents the Coronation of Emp. Charles VI. at Aix-la-Chapelle; on the other side is the Joyeuse Entree of Philip the Good of Burgundy, i. e. the conclusion of the contract of government between the sovereign , the clergy , the nobility, and the people. On an adjacent table is preserved the key of the city, which on that occasion was presented to the regent. The ceiling-paintings , mythological representations by Janssens, are considered a masterly performance. The two fountains in the court are decorated with recumbent river-gods. In the Grand' Place , or market-place , in front of the Hotel de Ville , 2o nobles of the Netherlands were beheaded by order of the Duke of Alva in 1568. Lamoral Count Egmont, and Philip de Montmorency, Count Hoorne, were the most distinguished victims. They passed the night previous to their execution in the Halle au Pain, or Maison du Roi, formerly a seat of some of the municipal authorities, now occupied by the Cercle Artistique Litterairei and they are said to have been conveyed directly from the balcony to the fatal block by means of a scaffolding, in order to prevent the possibility of a rescue by the populace. This building, erected in 1525, half in the Gothic, halt' in the Re- naissance style, was restored in 1767 in egregiously bad taste. Beneath the statue of the Virgin is the inscription : 'A peste^ fame et hello libera nos Maria pads', composed for the statue by the Infanta Isabella in 1624. In front of the Halle au Pain rises the *Monnmeiit of Counts Egmont and Hoorne, erected at the expense of the city and the state in 1864, to the memory of these illustrious patriots, who Guild Houses. BRUSSELS. 9. Route. 79 were 'unjustly executed by the Duke of Alva, June 5th, 1568', a3 the French and Flemi:st disastrous losses. Lord Uxbridge attempted to follow up this advantage by bringing forward a fresh regiment of Hanove- rian Huss.irs, but he was again doomed to disappointment; for the whole troop, after having made a pretence of obeying his command, wheeled round and fled to Brussels , where they caused the utmost consternation by a re- port that the Allies were defeated. During the whole of this time the defence of Hougomont had been gal- lantly and successfully carried on, and Du Plat with his Brunswickers had behaved with undaunted courage when attacked by French cavalry and tirailleurs in succession. The brave general himself fell, but his troops continued to maint. 3iJ2, A. Ifr. : -Grand Laboureur (PI. b) , Place de Meir; *H6tel de 1' E u- r ope (PI. c), and Hotel delaPaix (PI. d), in the Place Verte. — 'S Lands Welvaert (Ildtel du Bien Eire), near the Exchange; Hotel du Com- merce, Rue de la Bourse; Courier, near the Hotel St. Antoine, un- pretending", but well spoktn of; *Petit Paris (PI. e), Quai de Van Dyck ; Hotel du Rhin (PI. Oi near the latter. Restaurants. *Bertrand. Place de Meir, one of the best in Belgium, dinner 3 fr., or a la carte; Kocher de Cancale, adjoining the Exchange and the Place de Meir. Oysters at the Croix B Ian che on the Schelde. — Cafis : de I'Erapereur, Place de Meir ; Suisse, and F r a n c a i s , both ia the Place Verte. Ices at all the cafes in summer. — Beer: 'Sodalitc, opp. the Jesuits' Church, once the hall of a guild. Newspapers at the establishment of the Socidtd Artisiique, Litt^rair-e, ef acientifique in the Rue Leopold, near the Malines Gate. Strangers introduc- ed by a member. Pleasant garden, also a cafe etc. Post Office, Place Verte (PI. 43). Telegraph Office in the Cite. Cabs are stationed in the Place Verte and Place de Meir. Drive in the town for 1 pers. ij-j, 2—4 pers. 1 fr. ; per hour 1 pers. 11(4, 2—4 pers. 1>(2, ANTWERP. i2. Route. Ill each subsequent i|2 hr. i|2 fr. — Outside the town IM2— 2 fr. - To the rail- waystation or Zoological Garden 3J4— I1J2 fr. Railway to Ghent, see p. 53; station on the 1. bank of the Schelde; ferry thither at the S. end of the quay. To Rotterdam, see p. 141. Theatre (French) 4 times weekly during the winter; boxes 5. stalls 2i|2, pit I1J2 fr. — Schouvcburg des Vari4U$ (Flemish), pit 1 fr. Porterage from the quay into the town : portmanteau and travelling- bag 1 fr., each additional package 25 c. English Church in the Rue des Tanneurs. Principal Attract ions: Cathedral (p. 116), Museum (p. 122), Fish- market (p. 135), Zoological Garden (p. 134). — A good survey of the city is obtained from TetedeFlandre (or Flamisch Hoofd), on the 1. bank of the Schelde : ferry thither every 1(4 hr. 6 c. Antwerp (from ^aen't werf, on the wharf), with 133,334 in- habitants, once the capital of a county of the same name, be- longing to the Duchy of Brabant . w as founded as early as the 7th cent. It is now the principal seaport of Belgium, and carries on an extensive traffic with Great Britain and with Germany. Its advantageous situation on the Schelde (Escaut), which is here 1/3 M. broad and 30 ft. deep at high tide (60 M. from the sea) rendered it a place of great importance and wealth in the middle ages. When at the height of its prosperity in the 16th cent, it numbered 700,000 inhab. At that period thousands of vessels are said to have lain in the Schelde at one time , and many hundreds to have arrived and departed daily. Commerce, which luxury and revolution had banished from other Flemish towns, specially Bruges, sought refuge at Antwerp about the close of the loth cent. Under Emp. Charles V. Antwerp was perhaps the most prosperous and wealthy city on the continent , surpassing even Venice itself. The great fairs held here attracted merchants from all parts of the civilised world. The Florentine Guicciardini, an excellent authority in these matters (p. 168), records that in 1566 the spices and sugar imported from Portugal were valued at 17-2 million ducats (750,000 I., but really three or four times as much if the altered value of money be considered) , silk and gold wares from Italy 3 mill., grain from the Baltic II/2 million, French and German wines 21/2 tsxiW. , imports from England 12 mill, ducats. Upwards of a thousand foreign commercial firms had established themselves at Antwerp, among them one of the Fuggers , the merchant-princes of Augsburg, who died here leaving a fortune of nearly 2 million ducats. The Flemish manufactures 112 Route 12. ANTWERP. History. also enjoyed a high reputation about the beginning of the 16th cent., and were exported from Antwerp to Arabia, Persia, and India. Antwerp's decline began during the Spanish regime. The terrors of the Inquisition banished thousands of the industrious citizens, many of whom sought refuge in England, where they established silk - factories and contributed greatly to stimulate English commerce. The ruin of the city was completed by the atrocities committed by the Spanish soldiery in 1576, when it was unscrupulously pillaged and lost 7000 of its inhabitants by fire and sword , and finally by a siege of fourteen months and its capture by Duke Alexander of Parma. In addition to these disasters , the citizens were deprived of the greater part of their commerce by the intrigues of their Dutch rivals, who during the siege of Antwerp by the Duke of Parma (1584) used secret means to prevent assistance being given to the city, and afterwards erected forts at the mouth of the Schelde to prevent its navigation by Antwerp vessels. The maritime trade of the city received its death-blow from the Treaty of Miinster in 1648 , by which Hol- land was acknowledged independent of Spain , and it was agreed that no sea-going vessel should be permitted to ascend to Ant- werp , but should unload at a Dutch port . whence merchandise should be forwarded to Antwerp by river-barges only. In 1790 the population had dwindled down to 70,000 souls. In Aug, 1794 the French obtained possession of Antwerp, re-opened the navi- gation of the Schelde, and dismantled the forts erected by the Dutch at its embouchure. Napoleon caused the harbour and new quays to be constructed , but the wars in which he was engaged prevented him from actively promoting the interests of commerce. In 1814 the city was defended against the Allies by Carnot, but was surrendered to the British under Gen. Graham, and after- wards incorporated with the newly constituted kingdom of the Netherlands. The prosperity of Antwerp received a new impetus from the trade which it now carried on with the Dutch colonies, but it was again utterly ruined by the revolution of 1830, in which the citizens participated sorely against their will. The memorable siege of 1832 began Nov. 29th, and terminated on Jan. 23rd, 1833, with the surrender of the city. The French besiegers under Marshal Ge'rard numbered 55,000 men, with 223 guns, History of Art. ANTWERP. 12. Route. 11^ whilst the garrison under Gen. Chasse consisted of 4500 men only, with 145 guns. The city presented a scene of frightful desolation after the siege , many of the buildings having beei> reduced to a heap of ruins, and all more or less damaged. For many years after this calamity, the commerce of Antwerp was totally prostrated, but a marked change has recently taken place^ and the tide of prosperity has again begun slowly to set in. About 2500 vessels, of which 130 are Belgian, trade with Ant- werp annually, Antwerp has for centuries been regarded as a model fortress. The original citadel was constructed by the Duke of Alva in, 1568; it is in the form of a regular pentagon, protected by- bastions ranging at progressive elevations and connected by cur- tains of proportionate height. In advance of these fortifications;, another series of extensive bastions was erected in 1701, Gen. Carnot materially strengthened the place by new works at the beginning of the present century, and several advanced works and additional defences are now in process of construction. During the earlier period of Flemish art, the Antwerp School of Painting held a subordinate rank, and was greatly surpassed by those of Bruges and Ghent; but as these cities gradually lost their artistic, as well as their commercial importance, the fame and prosperity of Antwerp in these respects increased rapidly, until she attained the proud distinction of being one of the wealthiest cities in the world , and a cradle of art second perhaps to none but Florence. This golden era produced numerous artists of great merit, as Quentin Massys , Rubens , Van Dyck, Teniers, Jordaens, Be Crayer, Zegers, Xeefs, Snyders, Brill., etc. (comp. Introd.). A brief sketch of the lives of Rubens, Van Dyck, and Teniers (the greatest genre-painter of Bel- gium) will probably be acceptable to the traveller who visits the venerable city which these illustrious masters so greatly contributed to immortalize^ Peter Paul Rubens was born at Siegen in Westphalia on June 29tli (■St. Peter and St. Paul"), 1577. His parents were natives of Antwerp.. which they had quitted for political reasons, and afterwards settled at Co- logne. Rubens' father, who was a lawyer, died in 1587, and Rubens was then taken to Antwerp by his mother, and entrusted to the tuition of Otto van Veen, an eminent painter. In 1598 he became a member of the Cor- poration of Painters, and shortly afterwards set out for Italy, in order to acquire a more thorough knowledge of his art. He studied and painted at Venice and many other Italian cities. At ilantua he entered the service of Duke Gonzaga, who in 1605 sent him on an embassy to Philip III. of Spain. In 1608 he returned to Antwerp. Rubens was twice married — in 1609 to Isabella Brant (d. 1626), and in 1630 to Helene Fourment, niece of his first wife. In 1628 he went to JIadrid, where he became acquainted with Velas- quez, and in 1629 to London. In 1631 he was appointed Dean of the Guild Baedeker's Belgium and Holland. 2nd Edit. 8 114 Route I J. ANTWERP. History of Art. of Painters. He died iu 1640, and was buried in the cliurcli of St. Jacques. The epitaph on his monument was written by his friend Gervatius. Ru- bens was ennobled by Philip IV. of Spain , and knighted by Charles L . Adoration of the Shepherds: *369. Van Dyck. Portrait of Caesar Alexander Scaglia, the Spanish ambassador at the Congress of Miinster: 608. Verschuur. Portrait of the painter Herreyns: 587. 128 Route 12. ANTWERP. Museum. Herreyns, Dying Christ ; under it, 299—301. Rubens, Two views of a Triumphal arch, designed by Rubens for the entry of Ferdi- nand of Austria into Antwerp in 1635, after the Battle of Noerd- lingen and the Victory of Calloo; and the Triumphal car employed on the same occasion; 439. Murillo, St. Francis; 298. Rubens, Sketch of the Descent from the Cross in the Cathedral. IV. Saloon. 471. L. Backhuysen, Dutch vessel of war. — N. 207. Rubens, The Trinity. The dead Saviour is represented in the arms of God the Father, whilst the Holy Ghost hovers above. Above the latter, 480. QuelLin, St. Bernhard. S. 295. Rubens, Holy Family, 'La Vierge au perroqueV, so called from the parrot at the side , one of his earlier works, presented by him to the Guild of St. Luke; 290. Rubens, Christ on the Cross. All the above pictures , with the exception of Nos. 86 , 602, and 608, belong to the Brabant School, which attained its greatest perfection in the 16th and i7th centuries (comp. In- trod. VIII). In 1840 the Museum was greatly enriched by a bequest of the burgomaster Van Ertborn (whose bust is in the 5th Saloon), consisting of old pictures, chiefly of the Flemis^h School, which flourished at Bruges in the 15th cent., and preserved in the V. Saloon. To the r. at the entrance: *50 — 53. Four ad- mirable little pictures on a double diptych, almost resembling miniatures. On one of them Mary is represented with a lofty and rich crown, standing in the interior of a Gothic church; on her right arm the Child half wrapped in the swaddling-clothes. On the other, the Saviour in a white robe with the letters Alpha and Omega, and P. and F. (Pater et Filius) on a ground of red tapestry ; beneath are the armorial bearings of the two donors , date 1499. The other sides of these pictures bear the portraits of the donors. Abbots of the Cistercian Monastery of Les Dunes near Bruges. These works were formerly attributed to Memling, but are now believed to have been executed by Corne- lius Horebout, a master who flourished at Bruges about the close of the 15th cent. 1. 356. Jordaens, Portrait of a lady; 417. Van Ostade, The smoker; 802. J. Breughel, The dead Christ mourned over by the holy women and St. John; above it, 371. Van Dyck, Portrait of Mtiseum. ANTWERP. 12. Route. 129 a girl; 387. Cuyp, Two horsemen ; 498. Berckheyden, Amsterdam and the Town Hall; above it, 606. VeTboeckhoven , Sea-piece; 1, 2. Giotto, St. Paul and^ St. Nicholas, two small pictures on a gold ground; 41. Gerard van der Metre, Bearing of the Cross, a winged picture. *11. John van Eyck, Virgin in a red mantle, the Child with a parrot and flowers, on the 1. St. Donatus, pre- senting wax -tapers; on the r. the canon Van der Paelen (the donor) with a white robe, kneeling and holding a breviary and pair of spectacles in his hand; beside him St. George in full armour. This picture is a duplicate of that in the Museum at Bruges (p. 21). St. George and St. Donatus are two excellent figures, the old canon with his spectacles inferior, although perhaps a faithful portrait. Mary and the Child are less satisfactory. The heads of both and the figure of the latter are carefully executed, but there is an unusual degree of rigidity in the muscles. The features of Mary are too heavy , and the hair in disorder. All the minutiae are admirably elaborated, such as the fur of the donor, the tapestry, and the gold cloth. N. 55, 56. Quentin Massys , Christ and Mary, two admirable heads; 82, L. Cranach, Charity; 81. Cranach, Adam and Eve; 29. Rogier v. d. Weyden, Philip the Good of Burgundy, preserved under glass. E. 35. Stuerbout (Dirk van Haarlem), Madonna, a small pic- ture; 28. Rogier van der Weyden (or Roger of Bruges), Annun- ciation , a small picture of most delicate execution , formerly in the Convent of Lichtenthal near Baden-Baden, once erroneously attributed to Memling (under glass). — *26. Rog. v. d. Weyden, Sacrament of the altar, flanked by two wings representing the six other Romish sacraments. The scene is in a spacious Gothic church , the architecture of which serves to unite the groups. This picture, the gem of the burgomaster's co Uection, is brilliantly executed. The different colours of the robes of the angels, who hover over each of the sacraments, are remarkable, and expressive of the different orders of angels according to the Romish faith. — 48. Memling, Praying monk. — *7, 8. Hubert van Eyck, a diptych. Virgin and Child, and donors. S. 181. Holbein the Younger, Portrait of Erasmus of Rotter- dam. — Diinwege, Holy Family. — On the r. and 1. of the last, Jan Gossaert (Jean de Maubeuge), The Holy Women, and the Just Baedeker's Belgium and Holland. 2nd Edit. 9 130 Route 72. ANTWERP. St. Jacques. Judges; Steen, Samson and the Philistines; Rembrandt, Portrait of a Jew; Rembrandt, The young fisherman; above it, De Keyser (p. 121), Portrait of Mn»e van den Hecke; Weenix, Harbour in Italy; above it, Head of an old man; Wouverman, Horsemen reposing. Private Galleries: Mme. Wuyts , Rue du Jardin, the fees for admission to which are devoted to charitable purposes; M. Notebohm, Rue du Fagot, daily except Thursdays and Fridays. *St. Jacques (PI. 23), erected at the close of the 15th cent., is the principal church in Antwerp after the cathedral, which it far surpasses in the sumptuousness of its monuments and decora- tions in marble. Traces of the degraded taste of the 17th cent, are however distinctly observable in the interior. The wealthiest and most distinguished families at Antwerp here possessed their burial-vaults , private chapels, and altars, the most interesting of which is that of the family of Rubens , in the choir, at the back of the high altar. The principal entrance (_sacristan"s fee 1 fr. for 1 pers., 11/2 for 2 pers., etc.; comp. Introd. 1) is on the S. side, in the Longue Rue Neuve. As most of the best pictures are covered, the attendance of the sacristan is indispensable (his house is the second at the back of the church). The best hours are 12 — 4 p. m., when there is no service. On the first pillar to the r., by the W. entrance, is a Resur- rection by Van Balen] above it, the portraits of this master and his wife, by Van Dyck (?). Chapels of the S. Aisle. 1st Cha- pel: Monument of Bogaerts, the author (d. 1851), with his por- trait by De Keyser. 2nd Chapel : M. de Vos, Temptation of St. Antony. Monument of the Burgomaster Van Ertborn (p. 128). Madonna by Guido Rent. Yerriere (glass-cabinet), painted by Pluys in 1844. 3rd Chapel: E. Quellin, St. Rochus cured of the plague. 4th Chapel : Altar-piece and pictures opposite , by O. Venius. Stained glass in the 3rd and 4th Chapels , modern. 5th Chapel : *Fr. Floris, Women occupied with the Infant Christ and St. John. 6th Chapel: M. Coxcie, Baptism of Christ. Ffan- ken, four winged pictures. — In the S. Transept an Elevation of the Cross , a haut-relief in stone , executed by Van der Voort in 1719. — Chapels of the Choir. 1st Chapel: O. Venius, St. Jacques. ANTWERP. 72. Route. 131 Last Supper. * Stained glass of 1626 , representing Rudolph of Hapsburg giving his horse to the priest with the monstrance ; below are the donors. On the wall of the choir opposite: Van Dyck, Dead Christ. 2nd Chapel : Van Balen , Trinity. On the posterior wall: *Jordaens , Vocation of Peter to the apostleship. On the wall of the choir opposite : Corn. Schut , Mary mourning over the body of Christ. 3rd Chapel: Zegers, St. Ivo. * M. de Vos, Martyrdom of St. James. 4th Chapel: Zegers, Appearing of Christ. Van der Voort, Christ scourged, a group in marble. 0th Chapel. *Chapel of Rubens. The tomb of the illustrious painter (d. May 30th, 1640, at the age of 64) was covered by a new tombstone in 1755, bearing a long inscription in Latin. On the r. and 1. are the monuments of two female descendants of Rubens, executed by Geefs in 1830 and 1850. The altar-piece of this chapel is a fine work by Rubens, painted expressly for the purpose. It derives a still higher interest from the family- portraits introduced. On the 1. Rubens as St. George , in front of him his two wives (the first as Martha , the second as the Magdalene) and his daughter; in the centre his father as St. Je- rome ; the figure in a blue robe with the child is his niece, whose portrait is also known as the 'Chapeau de Paille'; on the r, his grandfather as the god of Time. Rubens has evidently bestowed considerable care on this work, and the figures are more graceful than is usual in his pictures. The colouring, moreover, is remark- ably effective and brilliant. — The beautiful Statue of the Vir- gin in marble over the altar , executed by Lucas Faidherbe , was brought from Italy by Rubens himself. 6th Chapel: Jordaens, S. Carlo Borromeo among persons sick of the plague, praying to the Virgin. 7th Chapel: Van Lint, St. Peter taking leave of St. Paul. 8th Chapel: Victor Wolfvoet, Meeting of the Women. Moons (d. 1845) , Christ and the dis- ciples at Emmaus. 9th Chapel: Stained glass of 1611, partially restored. By the wall of the choir, opposite : Van Balen, The Tri- nity ; Thyssens, Abraham's Sacrifice. — In the N. Transept: Thyssens , Assumption of the Virgin. On the pillar , * C. Schut, Body of Christ on the knees of the Virgin, — Chapels of the N. Aisle. 1st Chapel: Coberger, St, Helena giving the Cross to her son the Emp. Constantine, 2nd Chapel: M. de Vos, Glory, a winged picture : * Van Dyck , Crucifixion, Above the latter, 9* 132 Route 12. ANTWERP. Augustine Church. stained glass representing the Last Supper , by Van der Veken, 3rd Chapel: *B v. Orley , Last Judgment; on the wings St. George and the Burgomaster Rockox , the donor of the picture, ■with his three sons; and St. Catharine and the wife of the Bur- gomaster, with their eleven daughters. 4th Chapel : Van Balen, Adoration of the Magi; *Ryckaert^ Portrait of J. Doncker and his wife. 5th Chapel: Altar-piece of no great merit; C. de Vos^ Portrait of Corn. Landschot (d. 1656); M. d. Vos, Mary entering the Temple. 6th Chapel : Tomb of the Span, general Del Pico (d. 1693). — Over the altars on the 1. and r. of the entrance to the choir : Quellin , Death of St. Francis ; Boeyermans , As- sumption of Mary. By the approach to the choir, life-size statues of the apostles in marble , by Van der Voort . De Cuyper, and others. The high altar itself was designed by Rubens. Pulpit of carved wood, by Willemsens. Oratorio reliefs by Geefs and De Cuyper. A few streets farther N. is situated the small church of St. Antoine (PL 16), or Church of the Capuchins, erected in 1589, the sole attraction of which consists of the two valuable pictures it possesses: on the L, *Christ mourned over by his friends and two angels , by Van Dyck ; on the r. , St. Antony receiving the Infant Jesus from the arms of the Virgin, by Rubens. The Jesuits' Church (St. Charles, PL 21), near the Cathe- dral, with its handsome facade, was founded in 1614, but rebuilt in accordance with the taste of the 18th cent, after its destruc- tion by a fire in 1718. The tower is considered the finest which has been constructed in Belgium since the epoch of the Renaissance. The best pictures are : High altar-piece , an As- sumption of the Virgin, by Schut; on the L, St. Francis Xavier kneeling before the Virgin, by Zegers ; in a chapel on the r., Presentation in the Temple, by Vt^appers. The Church of the Augustines (PL 17), erected in 1615, possesses a large * altar-piece by Rubens, representing the 'Nup- tials of St. Catharine with the Infant Jesus', unfortunately not in a good state of preservation. The Virgin and Child are seated on a kind of stage, behind them St. Joseph, on the r. St. Ca- tharine receiving the ring from the Child. SS. Peter and Paul in the background, John the Baptist on the steps to the L, with the Lamb and angels. Below are several other saints, among St. Andrew. ANTWERP. 1'2. Route. 133 -whom St. George in full armour is the master himself. The pic- ture is brilliantly coloured and most skilfully arranged. The head of St. Catharine is particularly fine. — Then to 'the r. of the principal entrance: Lens. Presentation in the Temple; 1. Cels, Elisabeth and Mary . both works of the present century. Farther to the r. a copy of Van Dyck's Crucified Christ (p. 127), a copy ■of Rubens" -Christ a la paille', and the Martyrdom of St. Apol- lonia as an altar-piece , by Jordaens. The horse in the latter is worthy of notice. On the 1. an altar-piece by Van Dyck, The Vision of St. Augustine, a work of considerable reputation, but by 110 means one of his best. High up in the choir, Baptism of St. Augustine, by Van Bree. The pictures of Rubens and Jordaens were taken to Paris by the French, but restored in 1315. On the r. of the choir a modern chapel in the Romanesque style, with frescoes by Bellemans. The suppressed Augustine Monastery has been converted into an arcade, termed the Cite, in order that Antwerp, like Brussels and Liege might also boast of its 'Passage* ; but the undertaking has proved a failure. Part of it has been fitted up as a tempo- rary exchange. The church of St. Andrew (PI. 14), erected in 1514—23, contains a very large pulpit in carved wood , by Van Geel and Van Hool. St. Peter and St. Andrew are represented in a boat on the sea, from which they are summoned by the Saviour. Life- size figures, finely executed. In the N. chapel of the choir: Go- vaerts, Flight into Egypt; Zegers, St. Anna instructing the Vir- ^n. Modern stained glass, date 1855. Choir: O. Venius, Crucifixion of St. Andrew; Quellin, Guardian angel of youth. S. chapel of the choir: Franck , Last Supper (altar-piece); Jor- daens, Adoration of the Magi; Quellin, Christ at Emmaus; Quel- lin. Holy Family. By the choir are two statues, 1. St. Peter by A. Quellyn , r. St. Paul by Zielens. In the transepts two large modern pictures , r. Dead Saviour on the knees of the Virgin (a Tieta") by Verlaf, 1. an Entombment by Van Eycken. Side-altar on the S. : Pepyn , Crucifixion; on the N. , Franck , St. Anna teaching children , a work with numerous figures. The aisles contain a number of large modern pictures. On a pillar in the S. aisle is a small medallion-portrait of Mary Queen of Scots (by Fourbus) . with an inscription , in memory of her two English 134 Route 12. ANTWERP. Theatre. ladies-in-waiting •who are interred here. On the S. pillar of the- choir a slab commemorates M^auters (d. 1853), one of the better painters of the present century. The magnificent Sourse, or Exchange (PI. 8), was almost entirely destroyed by a conflagration in 1858. The external walls and a few Moorish-Gothic arches are now the sole remains. The Royal Palace (PI. 41), in the Place de Meir, erected for a wealthy citizen of Antwerp in 1755 in the fantastic 'Pompa- dour style', is not accessible to the public. Rubens' House (PI. 38), in the Rubens-Street, near the Pa- lace, is the largest on the 1., with two gateways. The facade is new, and it now belongs to a mercantile firm. The spacious Theatre (PI. 49), completed in 1834, is hand- somely fitted up in the interior. Niches over the windows contain busts of eminent dramatists and composers, among whom are J?hak- speare and Schiller, Moliere and Racine, Sophocles and Euripides, Mozart, Me'hul, etc. On the summit, the statues of the Nine Muses^ The church of St. George, near the theatre, consecrated in- 1853, but still unfinished, is embellished with fine mural ♦paint- ings by Giiffens and Swerts : St. George on horseback , Christ. the Evangelists, etc. The *Zoological Garden {^Deertuin\ PI. 36), founded in 1843 , situated on the E. side of the city , beyond the railway- station, consists of a garden and a small park, with a fine collection of animals. The arrangements are admirable, and the whole estab- lishment one of the best in Europe. Numerous inscriptions bear testimony to the liberality with which the gardens are supported by private donations of animals, buildings, etc. Admission 1 fr. (unless the visitor be introduced by a member). Concerts in summer on Tuesdays and Thursdays, 6—8 p. m., well worthy of a visit. Grounds resembling a park extend between the Zoological Garden and the Porte de Malines, in the vicinity of which (near the Societe Artistique, p. 110) are the Botanical Gardens (PI. 35), with a spacious palm-house and admirably kept grounds. If the traveller still have a few hours at his disposal, he may devote them to visiting the Quays on the Schelde, which were constructed by Napoleon in 1802. They extend from the Arse- nal, near the S. Citadel, to the docks, a distance of nearly 1 M., Docks. ANTWERP. 12. Route. 135 and afford an entertaining promenade. A considerable number of the vessels and their crews are English and Dutch. The street which descends from the Place Yerte to the Schelde passes through a gateway adorned with sculptures, and bearing an inscription dedicated by the ^Senatus Populusque Antwerp ienses' to the ^Magnus Philippus'. This prince was Philip IV. , great- grandson of the Emp. Charles V. , who reigned from 1621 to 1665, and under whom Spain entirely lost her prestige, having been deprived of Portugal in 1640, and finally of the Nether- lands in 1648. The Marche aux Poissons (PI. 30), opposite the quay of the English steamboats, and adjoining the Hotel du Khin (p. 110), presents a busy and amusing scene between 7 and 9 a. m., when the fish-auctions take place (p. 5). The building adjoining the market on the E. , flanked with towers at the corners, was for- merly the seat of the Inquisition, the introduction of which, under the Duke of Alva, contributed so greatly to undermine the pros- perity and diminish the population of the city. The court still contains a pillory and several curious old inscriptions. The dun- geons are now used as cellars. The drawbridges over the canals , which originally constituted the sole harbour, as well as the costumes and language of the people , remind the traveller of a Dutch , rather than a Belgian town. The "^ Docks at the N. extremity of the quays are now- reached. The two older basins were constructed by Napoleon (1804 — 13), at a cost of 13 million francs, in consequence of a decree of July 21st, 1803, constituting Antwerp the principal naval depot of the N. coast of France. In 1813 thirty vessels of war of the first class lay here, and the following year the fleet was bombarded by the English , but without decisive result. On the conclusion of the Peace of Paris the naval dockyard was demo- lished in accordance with the terras of the treaty. The small dock is capable of containing 100 vessels of moderate tonnage, the largest 250, and the new dock farther to the N. about 200. The graving-dock near the latter can be emptied by a steam-pump in 3/4 hr. Sailors of many different nationalities are encountered here, and the signs over the shops enumerate their commodities in English, Spanish, French, etc. 136 Route 12. ANTWERP. Old Citadel. Between the two older docks rises the Maison Hans^atique (PI. 31), a massive and venerable building originally employed as the magazine of the Hanseatic cities, and adorned with Doric and Ionic columns. It bears the inscription SACRI ROMANI IMPERII DOMUS HANSAE TEUTONICAE (date 1564), with the armorial bearings of the three cities of the League. At that time, as well as at the present day, the ambassador or consul of the League resided here. It is termed ^ O sterling shaus' by the Flemings. Under Napoleon it was converted into a naval barrack. In 1863 it was ceded by the Hanseatic towns to the Belgian government, as an equivalent for all river-dues exigible for the future from their vessels. The upper dock is flanked with a row of substantial buildings, used as bonded warehouses , or Entrepdts , which are connected with the railway- station by several lines of rails. The new Fortifications, commenced in 1859, consist of a po- lygonal rampart encircling the city about 1 M. beyond the origi- nal pentagon, thus affording ample space for the construction of new quarters and streets. Two citadels (N. and S.), forming the extremities of the rampart, command the course of the Schelde, as well as the city itself. Finally a series of detached jforts, 31/2 M. distant from the ramparts, completes the system. The old Citadel, now termed Citadelle du Sud, at the S. extremity of the quays, was formerly termed Paciotti, after the Italian engineer ty whom it was constructed for the Duke of Alva. 13. From Antwerp to Rotterdam. Steamboat (Mond., Wed., Sat.), preferable to the monotonous railway- route, in 9 hrs. (2'|2 or I1J2 fl.) from the Quai Van Dyck , morning tide. The steamers (Telegraph, Kos. 3 and 4) are well fitted up, and provided with restaurants. Agents in Antwerp Van Moenen &. Co., corner of the Quai Van Dyck and the Canal au Beurre ■, at Rotterdam Verweg & Co., Boompjes S- ^k^-) is a steamboat- station of considerable importance, being at present the terminus of the railway. Steamboats ply regularly hence to Amsterdam (the 'Stad Dordrecht', 'Stad Antwerpen', and 'Stad Rotterdam'); 142 Route 14. HASSELT. also to Rotterdam in connection with the trains , and twice daily to Dordrecht and Rotterdam independently of the railway (the 'Jan de Witt' and 'Nicholas de Witt'). Those who arrive by the last train from Antwerp must pass the night at Moerdijk, whence they may proceed by one of the latter vessels at 8 a. m. to Rot- terdam, arriving there at 10 o'clock (1 hr. to Dordrecht, 1 hr. more to Rotterdam). The extension of the line is rapidly progressing. The bridge over the Hollandsch Diep from Moerdijk to Willemsdorp (p. 141) is In course of construction, while the line between Willemsdorp and Dordrecht is already completed , and will probably soon be opened. The portion of the line between Dordrecht and Rotter- dam, however, will not be finished for several years. 14. From Antwerp to Aix-la-Chapelle. The most direct route from Antwerp to Aix-la-Chapelle is by Mastricht (4i|4— 51)2 hrs.). The line is the property of a private company, and the fares (13 fr. 10, 9 fr. 85, 6 fr. 55 c.) are lower than those of the State Raii- ■way via Malines and Liege. The latter, however, presents far more attrac- tions to the traveller who is visiting Belgium for the first time. Stat. B ouch out ; then stat. Lierre, where the line crosses the branch-railway from Contich to Herenthals (p. 109) and the Nethe. Lierre (Flem. Lier) possesses silk-factories of some importance. The church of St. Gommarius , begun in 1445 , completed in 1557 , contains several windows filled with fine stained glass, three of which were presented by the Emp. Maximilian. Farther on, the Villa Regout, the property of a wealthy citizen of Ant- werp, appears on the 1. The country is flat and uninteresting. Next stations Berlaer, Heyst-op-den-Berg with leather factories and considerable traffic in cattle and grain, Boisschot and Aerschot on the Demer , the latter with an ancient church; the railway here crosses that from Lou vain to Herenthals. The line now follows the valley of the Demer. Stations Testelt , Sichem with several breweries , and Diest , a fortress of Brabant since 1838 and point of defence towards the N. The latter, a town of 8000 inhab., possesses no fewer than 28 brew- eries and 11 distilleries. The Demer is crossed here: then stat. Zeelhem, Schuelen, and Kermpt. Hasaelt, the capital of the province of Limburg. with 9899 SHERTOGENBOSCH. 14. Route. 143 inhab., was the scene of a victory gained by the Dutch over the Belgians on Aug. 6th. 1831. At Hasselt the railway unites with the old branch-line from Landen to Mastricht. From Hasselt tr> Utrecht railway in 4 hrs. . the only direct line between Belgium and Holland. Route uninteresting; the bridges over the diflferent arms of the Rhine and 3Ieuse at the end of the journey are how- ever deserving of notice. Stations Zonhoven , Helchieren, Wychmael, Ettl, Neerpelt, Achel (last Belgian stat.), Valkensicaard (first Dutch stat), Aalst- Walre. Eindhoven (p. 184), where the line to Venlo diverges . Best , Bo.xtel (p. 184), Vugh.%, all unimportant places. s'Hertogenbosch , or simply s' Bosch, French Bois le Due ('Lion d"Or; Maison Verte). capital of the province of ^'. Brabant, with 24,000 iuhab., is a strongly fortified town on the Dommel, the Aa, and the Zuid Willems-Canal. It derives its name (literally -the duke's wood', or 'bush') from Duke Gode- froi of Brabant, who conferred municipal privileges en the place in 1184. The town possesses several handsome squares : a Goth, church (St. Jan) of 1280, with double aisles, restored at the end of the 15th cent.; a town- hall with collections of pictures and weapons ; a nat. hist, museum , con- taining among its curiosities a meteoric stone which fell in this neighbour- hood in 1840. Near the next stat. Bedel the line crosses the Meuse : then the broad river Waal, between the two next stations Zalt-Boinmel (p. 306) and Waar- denburg-, then the Linge at Geldermalsen , the Led or Lower Rhine at Kuilenburg (p. 302;, and finally the Old Rhine near Utrecht (p. 293). Stat. Diepenbeek. Beverst, and Munsterbilsen. To Liege by a branch-line from Munsterbilsen in Ut hr. : fares 2 fr. 80, 2 fr. 10. 1 fr. 35 c. — Stat. BoesseU , Tongres, Nederheim , Glons, Liers (whence a line to Ans diverges to the r. , see p. 165), Milmorte, Herstal, and Liege (p. 166). Stat. Eygenbilsen, Lanaken. and Mastricht, see p. 180. The Meuse is crossed here. Stat. Meerssen, Valkenburg (French Fauquemont, with picturesque ruins peeping from the trees on the r. of the line). Wylre, Simpelveld on the Dutch and Prussian frontier, and Aix-la-Chapelle, see Baedeker's Rhine and N. Germany. 15. From Brussels to Namur by Braine-le-Comte and Charleroi. Although double the length of the direct route , the present journey i? recommended to the traveller as by far the more interesting. The trains start from the Station du Midi at Brussels , and reach Namur in 2'l4— 33|4 hrs. ; fares (not higher than Luxembui^ Railway, owing to competition) 4 fr. 35, 2 fr. 90, 2 fr. 15 c. : distance 68 M. 144 Route 15. BRAINE-LE-COMTE. From Brussels As the station is quitted a view of the Porte de Hal is ob- tained to the 1. (p. 76). The train then crosses the Boulevard and traverses rich meadow-land , watered by the winding Senne. Near stat. Forest the river is crossed. Beyond Ruysbroeck, the birthplace of the well-known mystic of that name in the 14th cent., the line runs parallel with the ca- nal to Charleroi, the bed of which occasionally lies higher than the railway. Hilly district, numerous cuttings and embankments. Stat. Loth. Hal (Hotel des Pays-Bas), with its popular pilgrimage-church, see p. 56. Thus far this is the direct route to Calais, already described. Then stat. Lembecq and Tuhize. Braine-le-Comte , a small town with 6336 inhab. (the name of which is supposed to be derived from Brennus, the general of the Senonian Gauls), is the junction for Mons (p. 198), and car- riages are sometimes changed. Stat. Ecaussines possesses exten- sive quarries of blue limestone , which is cut in slabs and ex- ported under the name of Flemish granite. The line next crosses the Charleroi Canal, and near Manage enters a productive coal- district. Manage-Mons, a branch-line used chiefly for goods-traffic, intersects Le Centre, a valuable coal-field, comprising the important mines of La Louviire, Bois-du-Luc, Bracquegnies, etc. The Haine , a rivulet whence the province derives its name (Hainault) is occasionally visible. Extensive co- lonies of miners are established at Bois-du-Luc. On the height near it lies the village of Boussoit. All the trains between Manage and Mons (15 M. in 50 min. or 1 hr. ; fares 2 , IIJ2, 1 fr.) are slow , being employed for the transport of coal, as well as of passengers. From La Louviere, the first im- portant station , a short branch-line diverges to Bascoup. At stat. Marie- mont are the ruins of a hunting chateau erected by Princess Mary of Hun- gary in 1548, and burned down by Henry II. of France six years afterwards. In the vicinity is the handsome country residence of M. Abel Warocqui (d. 1864). one of the merchant-princes of Belgium. In the environs of stat. Obourg tobacco of a highly esteemed quality is cultivated. Mons, see p. 198. Manage-Wavr e is the prolongation of this line to the N. , intersect- ing the Brussels-Xamur and the Louvain-Charleroi lines at Oltignies (p. 155). From Manage to Wavre in 50 min. or 11(2 hr. ; fares 3 fr. 45 , 2 fr. 65, 1 fr. 70 c. — At stat. Seneffe , a battle was fought in 1674 between Prince Cond^ and William III. of Orange. Here, too, on July 2nd , 1794 , the Austrians were defeated by the French under Marceau and Olivier. Stat. ^iivelles, a town with 9013 inhab. , possesses a fine old Romanesque church (St. Gertrude), dating from the 11th cent. It contains the curious shrine of the saint in the form of a church , and two fine pulpits by Delvaux, one in marble, the other in wood. The hours of the church-clock are struck by to Namur. CHARLEROI. 16. Route. 145 the colossal figure of a knight , termed Jean de Nivelles. The suppressed Abbey of St. Gertrude is adjacent to the church. Waterloo relics are said to be manufactured here , an industrial fame !not appreciated by the in- habitants. Near stat. Genappe, on the night after the Battle of Waterloo, the Prussian troops captured the carriage of Napoleon. TFarre, sec p. 165. Beyond Manage the main line passes several small stations, and traverses a more hilly district, describing numerous [curves, and crossing the Charleroi Canal several times. Beyond a deep cutting, a beautiful undulating and well-wooded district is entered. On an eminence is situated the town of Gosselies, then Roux and Marchiennes-au-Pont, villages occupied by the Prussians on June 15th, 1815, the day before the Battle of Ligny (p. 150), which lies 41/2 M. to the N.E. of Gosselies. The environs of Marchiennes and Charleroi are remarkable for picturesque scenery and industrial activity. This is by far the most interesting part of the journey. Wooded hills, prosperous villages, and well-cultivated fields are passed in rapid succession, whilst the lofty chimneys of coal-mines, iron-foundries and glass- works are seen in every direction. The numerous barges on the r^anal bear additional testimony to the busy traffic of the district. The line now reaches the Sambre, which it crosses sixteen times before Namur is reached. Charleroi f Hotel Burin; Pays-Bas ; Grand- Monar que) , the most modern town in Belgium, was founded by Charles II. of Spain in 1666, in honour of whom the name (Charnoy) of the village which then occupied the site was changed to Charleroi. Under Louis XIV. it was fortified by Vauban. In 1794 it was four times besieged by the French , to whom it was ultimately surrendered on the eve of the Battle of Fleurus (p. 152), after the garrison had been reduced to the utmost extremities. On May 23rd, 1794, the French were totally defeated here by the Austrian Gen. Kaunitz, who captured 25 guns and 1300 prison- ers. The following year the fortifications were demolished, but again constructed in 1816. The town itself contains nothing to interest the traveller. A handsome prison near the station, erected in 1852, resembles a Gothic castle. A view of the green ram- parts is obtained from the train. Charleroi-Erquelinnes-Paris in 6i;2 — 8 hrs., see Baedeker's Paris. Charleroi- Wavre-Louvain, see p. 165. Baedekek's Belgium and Holland. 2nd Edit. 10 110 liouie 15. NAMl'ii. I'r^ m Iiru«eh. Charlerui-Vireux in •2ii-.. In-.: fares 3 Ir. 6l). 2 fr. 45. 1 IV. SO c. — From Stat. Walcourt , about halt" way to Vircux, a branch-line diverge,-* to PhUipj>eviUe : from stat. Mariemhourg another to Chimay , where the park and chateau of the prince of that name are situated. Vireux, the French frontier-station, lies on the Meuse , above the fortress of Givet (p. 154). Beyond Vireux the line proceeds to Rhcims and Paris. Beyond Charleroi the train to Nanmr crosses the I'hilippevillt' road . and passes the numerous foundries of Couillet and Chate- lineau. Opposite the latter is situated the busy little town of Chatelet, with 4000 inhab. C hatelineau-Give t , a branch-line traversing (in 2 hrs.) a l.us\ manufacturing and mining district , and connected by another branch with Walroirrt (see above). The indications of commercial enterprise gradually disappear. The Sambre winds peacefully through beautiful grassy valleys, occasionally skirting wooded hills. To the r. of stat. Tamines i- situated the former abbey of Ste. Marie d'Oignies, now an exten- sive mirror-manufactory. To the r. of stat. FLoreffe, picturesquely situated on an eminence, rises the former Premonstratensian Abbey of Floreffo, now a seminary for priests (an edifice in tht- 'rococo' style). Tlie valley of the Sambre is here thickly studded with ancient chateaux , modern villas . and manufactories. The train , whence the citadel of Namur is now visible, describes a circuit round the town, and stops at the station near the Lou vain Gate (Porte de Fer). Near this gate and the Porte de Bruxelles several sanguinary encounters took place between the Prussians and the retreating corps of Grouchy, the vanguard of which was commanded by Vandamme , on June 20th. 1815. The Prussians forced their way into the town, and took the bridge over the Sambre, but did not succeed in materially impeding the progress of the French. Several hundred Prussians , with two of their colonels and other officers, perished in these fruitless struggles. Namur, Flem. Namen (*Hoiel D'Harscamp, diligence - office ; *Hdtel deHoUande; *H6tel Bellevue), the capital of the province, with 25,883 inhab., has always been a point of great military importance on account of the natural advantages of its situation. In the time of the Romans it was the capital of the Aduatici , a race descended from the Cimbri and Teutoni. Ciesar (De Bell. Gall. II. 29) records, that, after he had defeated the Nervii on the Sabis, i. e. the Sambre. the Aduatici, their allies, 'cuncth to .\umur. NAMUK. 75. lioiite. 147 oppidis castelUsque desertis. sua omnia in unum oppidum. egrearie natura munitum contulerunt/ This 'one town, admirably fortified by nature', was the ancient Namur, to the importance of which ^s early as B. C. 56 Ciesar thus testifies. At subsequent periods also Namur sustained numerous sieges, in consequence of which the greater part of the present town is of modern origin. The Beffroi, or Belfry, erected in the 11th <:ent. (restored in the loth), and the Palais de Justice (for- merly the monastery of St. Albinus) , dating from 1464. are almost the only old buildings which have survived the destruction of their contemporaries. The *Cathedral (St. Aubin) , consecrated in 1772, with a Jome and Corinthian portico, is one of the finest modern churches in Belgium in the Italian style. At the sides of the high altar are statues of St. Peter and St. Paul Id marble , by Delvaux. On the 1. of the high altar a copy of Van Dyck's Crucifixion i on the r. a monument in marble of a Bishop de Pisani (d. 1826), liy Parmentier of Ghent. At the back of the high altar is a tomb- stone erected by Alexander Farnese to his 'amatissimo avunculo' Don John of Austria, the conqueror atLepanto, who died in his ■lamp near Bouge, ^/^ M. to the X. E. of Namur, Aug. QOth. 1578. The pulpit is a fine specimen of carved wood, by Geerts (1848). The principal pictures are copies from Rubens. The church of St. Loup, erected in 1621 — 53 in the style peculiar to the Jesuit Order, is supported by 12 pillars of marble. The choir is entirely covered with black marble , and the ceiling with sculptures. A large hole in the latter, caused by a shell ^luring the siege by Louis XIV. in 1692, is left unrepaired in -commemoration of that event. The Citadel occupies the site of the former castle of the Counts of Namur. It was erected in 1794, and has been mate- terially strengthened at various periods since 1817. Permission to visit it must be obtained from the commandant. The sum- mit commands a fine view of the valleys of the Sambre and Meuse. A similar view, however, may be obtained from the table-land in the rear of the Citadel, which is accessible without permission. The situation of Namur and its Citadel resembles that of Coblenz and Ehrenbreitstein on the Rhine. The confluence of the Mense 10* 148 10. Route. GENAPPE. and Sambre is at the foot of the Citadel. Both rivers are cross- ed by stone bridges, the newest of which was constructed in 1854. A Penitentiary for women was erected at Namur in 1840, on Auburn's system. The prisoners work during the day together in large halls , but silence is strictly enforced. At night they occupy separate cells. The cutlery of Namur enjoys a high reputation, and is said to be not inferior to that manufactured in England , which may however be doubted. The depot of the royal tool-manufactory, kept by J. F. JJcot, Rue de Fosse's, is the best shop of this de- scription at Namur. Railway to Luxembourg and Treves, see p. 155; to Liege, see p. 185; to Dinant and Givet, see p. 152. 16. From Brussels to Namur by the High Road. The Battle-Fields. This route, although now almost entirely superseded by the railway, is still occasionally traversed by travellers on account of the historical asso- ciations with which it is replete. Xo public conveyances now run on this road. The principal battle-fields are most conveniently reached by the Lou vain-Charleroi line (p. 165), on which Wavre, Ligny, and Fleurus are situated. — From Brussels 4 trains daily to Ottignies, junction of the Brussels-Namur (p. 155), Wavre-Mons (p. 144), and Louvain-Charleroi lines. The district of Belgium traversed by the old road has for cen- turies been a theatre of war. where at various periods the prin- cipal nations of Europe have settled their differences by the sword, and where national antipathies have frequently come into fierce and sanguinary collision. Waterloo, Quatre-Bras, Ligny and St. Amand, Wavre, Fleurus, and Charleroi, memorable names familiar to every reader of history, all lie on this route. 91/2 M- froni Brussels is the village of Waterloo, see p. 98. 7 M. Genappe is a station on the Mons-Wavre line (p. 145). The road here was completely obstructed by guns and baggage- wagons on the night after the Battle of Waterloo. Napoleon, who had probably entered his carriage at no great distance from the scene of his defeat, was here compelled to quit it in precipitate haste, leaving his sword and hat behind. These trophies , with the emperor" s telescope and cloak , were taken by Bliicher , and QUATREBRAS. 16. Route. 149 afterwards sent to Berlin. Napoleon's plate, jewels, and money tell into the hands of the Prussian troops. At Quatrebras, about 4'/.2 M. from Genappe', 'the four arms" of the road. viz. to Charleroi. Nivelles. Brussels, and Namur, con- verge . whence the name. Here on June 16th, 1815, a battle was fought between Ney's division and a part of the British army with its German and Belgian contingents. The French numbered about 17,000 men. the Allies 18,000; but of the latter 8000 only were British and German , and on the remaining 10,000 no reliance whatever could be placed. Practically, therefore, the Allies were far outnumbered. At first, shortly after 2 p. m., the success of the French , who were opposed by the Belgians only, was complete ; but their progress was soon arrested by the British and German troops, and the battle raged with the utmost fury till dusk. Prodigies of valour were, as usual, performed by the 93rd Highlanders, and most of the German troops (Hano- verians and Brunswickers) behaved with great bravery , although young and inexperienced. At one juncture the Duke of Welling- ton himself became involved, and only escaped by putting his horse to full gallop. About 4 o'clock the gallant Duke of Bruns- wick fell, whilst endeavouring to rally his troops. Towards the close of the battle the tide of success turned decidedly in favour of the Allies. Ney , to his great indignation, now learned that Erlons corps, which had at first been ordered to support him, and would doubtless have ensured the victory to the French , had re- ceived .fresh orders from Napoleon to move towards St. Amand to oppose the Prussians there. The brave marshal's discomfiture was complete, his troops were totally defeated, and under cover of the increasing darkness they retreated to their original position at Frasne. The village of Frasne, the head-quarters of Ney on June 16th, lies 3/4 M. beyend Quatrebras, in the direction of Charleroi. The spirited pursuit of the French by the Prussians on the night after the Battle of Waterloo extended thus far, a distance of more than 6 M. from the battle-field, notwithstanding the numerous obstacles and difficulties encountered by the indefatigable pursuers. SombrefFe, 61/4 M. from Quatrebras, was occupied on June 15th, 1815, by the 2nd and 3rd Prussian corps d'arme'e under Marshal Bliicher himself, who late in the evening received Intel- 150 Route 10. LIGNY. From IJrussels ligenoe that Gen. Biilow vith the 4th corps tould nut come to liis assistance as originally concerted. The brave marslial accord- ingly resolved to fight alone , if necessary. The Duke ol" W\l- lington had agreed to co-operate with BlUcher, but the British troops were too far distant to render assistance, whilst those whose position was nearest to the Prussians were fully occupied at the Battle of Quatrebras. It is well authenticated that the Duke ex- pressed his disapprobation of BlUcher's position , observing to the Marshal that 'with British troops he would have occupied the ground differently'. The chief disadvantages of the ground occu- pied by Bliicher near St. Amand and Ligny, which he regarded as the keys of his position, were that there was too little secu- rity in the direction in which the communication with the British was to be maintained, and that the villages in advance of the linu were too distant to be reinforced without enormous loss. It i- also on record that the Duke, after his interview with the Marshal, on the morning of the simultaneous battles, remarked to one oi his staff: 'The Prussians will make a gallant fight; tliey are ca- pital troops, and well commanded; but they will be beaten. And the Prussians did fight most gallantly, well sustaining the military reputation of their country ; their officers too, including the high-spirited old Marshal himself, acted their part most nobly. But their utmost effoits were fruitless; they sustained immense loss, were overmatched, and finally repulsed, but not conquered. According to the official statistics of both sides with regard to Uic Battle of Ligny, the total force of the French amounted to 71,2U3 men. with 242 guns, that of the Prussians to 83,417 men, with 224 guns. Itnuisi. however, be remembered, that a large proportion of the French army Ma> composed of veteran soldiers, whilst most of the Prussian troops were com- paratively young and inexperienced. Moreover the French artillery wa.- numerically superior, and far more advantageously placed. At half-past twn o'clock the battle began with a deadly cannonade from the French, to which the Prussian batteries from the heights between St. Amand and Ligny vigo- rously responded. Under cover of his artillery Vandamme succeeded in gaining possession of St. Amand, but the Prussians soon recovered the lower part of the village, whilst the French retained the higher. The loss, however, sustained by the Prussians in sending reinforcements to the vil- lage was so enormous, that they subsequently retired from this part of the lield. At the same time Ligny was the scene of a terrilic struggle. The I'russians fought with the utmost fury, but the French gained the village, from M-hich however they were soon driven by a renewed attack. ]Mean- vvhile Bliicher determined to recover ,S7. Amand la IJaye, which he had lost at the same time as St. Amand. Two attacks failed, but a third, headed to S'tmur. IJONY. /';. Route. 15t by the Marshal himself, carried everything befure it, and fairly swei't the French out of the village. In the course of the day this village was thus taken and re-taken several times. At Ligny the battle raged with unremit- •ing fury. The French re-captured the village . and established themselves in the churchyard, a most advantageous position for their artillery, notwith- standing which the Prussians continued to attack them with unabated energy. In a similar manner the villages of Hameau St. Amand and Wmjnele were the scenes of lierce struggles, being several times captured and re- captured by both armies. On the whole, however, the advantage was slightly on the side of the French. As late as 8 oclock the contest was maintained at Ligny and the environs with such obstinacy and gallantry ..n both sides, that the ultimate issue still appeared doubtful. At length, liowever. when the Prussians were well nigh exhausted, Napoleon directed .•ight fresh battalions of the Guard and Milhaud"s heavy cavalry to advance j'2 hrs. ; fares 5 fr. 75 c, 4 fr. '25 c, 3 fr. — The station from which the trains start is at the extre- mity of the Eue de Luxembourg, in the Quartier Le'opold. Tlie first stations, Boitsfort and Groenendael (omnibus hence to Waterloo, see p. 8<5), -with their pleasant woods, are both favourite resorts of tlie citizt-ns of Brussels for picnics and excur- sions. From the next stat. La Hitlpe, a jrlimpse is obtained to the r. of the Mound of tiie Lion (p. 99) on the field of Water- loo in the distance. On the 1., near Rixensart, is the cliateau of I'ount Merode. Ottiynie-i is the point of intersection of the Lou- vain-Charleroi (p. IboJ and Louvain-.Manage-Mons (p. 144) lines. Then Mont St. duihtrl witli beautiful environs. On the r. the ihateau of Birbaix with well-kept gardens. At Chastre the Pro- vince of Brabant is quitted and that of Namur entered. At Gem- hloiu. in 1578, Prince William of Oraniie, who had formally ceased to recognise the Spanish supremacy, was defeated by Don John of Austria, the Spanish governor. A few months later the Don"s victorious career was cut sliort by his sudden death near Namur (p. 147). An old abbey liere contains the royal stud and an agricultural institution. Stations St. Denis - Bo vesse and Rhisne. Several cuttings in the blue limestone rocks are passed through, and a strikingly picturesque view obtained of Namur, see p. 140. The line now intersects tlie Forest of Ardennes, a wild, mountainous district, still richly wooded in many parts , and a suitable field for the robust pedestrian. The forest still contains deer and wild boars, and even wolves are not entirely extermi- nated. The delirious mutton of the Ardennes is the best in Belgium, but the traveller must not always expect such fare at the poor village inns. Immediately after quitting Namur the train ( rosses the Meuse, and a remarkably fine panorama is again enjoyed of the town and its citadel. As- the train proceeds, it affords many picturesque glimpses of the valleys and woods of the Ardennes. The next stations are Naninne , Assesse , and Natoye. Before Ciney is reached , the chateau of the eminent geologist Halloy is seen on 1 50 Route 18. TROU DE HAN. From Brussels tlie 1. — Ciney was formerly the capital of the Condroz (Condrusi of the Romans), as the district between the Meuse and Ourthe was once called. Stations Haversin and Aye. From the latter an omnibus (in ^2 ^^^ V2 Ir.) runs to Marche (Cloche d'Or), the chief town (2319 inhab.) of the Famenne^ a productive agricultural district. Here in 1577, Don John of Austria, the Spanish governor of the Netherlands, con- firmed the Pacification of Ghent (p. 36) by the so-called Perpetual Edict J but his subsequent conduct soon proved that he enter- tained no real intention of abandoning the intolerant and unscru- pulous policy of his bigoted master Philip 11. Marche was for- merly a fortress. Lafayette was taken prisoner by the Austrians here in 1792. From Marloie a direct line runs to Liege (Ligne de VOurthe) in 13,4 hr.; fares 5 fr. 20, 3 fr. 90, 2 fr. 60 c. First stat. Marche (see above): near stat. Melreux the line crosses the Ourthe , and beyond Bavaux con- tinues to follow the valley of that river. The valley is narrow and pictu- resque; tunnels and bridges follow each other in rapid succession. Stations liomal, Hamoir, Comblain-la-Tour, Comblain-au-Pont (opp. which is the in- llux of the Ambleve), Poulseur, Esneux., TUf.^ Angletir, Liege (p. 167). Latter part of this route see p. 176. The train descends graduaUy from Aye to Jemelle, and affords to the 1. a tine view of the valley of the Wamme. Jemelle lies at the confluence of the latter with the Homme, a tributary of the Lesse. A small hut adorned with shells near the station indicates the entrance to the Grotto de la Wamme (admission for 1 pers. 3, 2 pers. 5 fr.). This cavern , which penetrates the limestone rocks near the railway, is smaller than the Trou de Han (see below), but is curious on account of its nume- rous long and narrow passages. A number of relics found here appear to indicate that the grotto was once inhabited. Jemelle, which possesses limestone and marble quarries, and lime-kilns, is the station for the venerable town (3 M.) of lioche/ort (Hotel de Lundres ; ^Etoile), once the capital of the County of Ardennes, situated on the Homme. The old castle is the principal reminiscence of its former importance. — An omnibus is usually in waiting at Jemelle to convey travellers to Han (in 1 hr. ; 3 fr. there and back). A visit to the grotto requires at least 4 hrs. ; fee 5 fr. for each person. Near Han the valley of the Lesse is closed by a wall of rock extending across it, whilst the river pours itself into a cavern at the foot of the rock, termed the 'Trou de Han, or de Belvaux, thus forcing for itself a passage. The subterranean course of the river is about Vli M. The cavern consists of a series of chambers , opening into each other , varying in height , and some of them supported by natural pillars. The numerous stalactite-forma- to Luxembourg. ST. HUBERT. 18. Route 157 tions have been named fancifully in accordance with their forms, Trone de P'.uion, Boudoir de Proserpine, Galerie de la Grenouille. etc. The entrance to the grotto is at a considerable height on the slope of the hill , and visi- tors emerge at the farther extremity in a boat. A visit to the cavern, the recesses of which have been more thoroughly explored within the last few years , occupies 4 hrs. , and is occasionally accompanied with some diffi- culty and fatigue , owing to the wet and slippery nature of the ground. The expedition, however, is extremely interesting, and should by all means be undertaken. The guide, who provides torches, lives in the neigh- bourhood ; the landlord of the inn at Han also acts in that capacity. The entrance to the cavern may also be reached from Jemelle direct (an ascent of 34 hr.). Beyond Jemelle is stat. Grupont. The train follows the sinuosities of the Homme. To the 1., on a bold rocky buttress rises the strikingly picturesque Chateau Mirwart , with its four towers. From stat. Poix an omnibus runs (in 1 hr. , 75 c.) to St. Hubert (Post ; Hotel de Luxembourg), a poor town with 2649 inhab., celebrated for the chapel which contains the relics of the saint who has given his name to the place. The former abbey has been converted into a Reformatory for youthful criminals. The Church, in the Flamboyant style , \\ith its double aisles and interesting crypt, dates from the 16th cent, (fa^'ade and towers erected in 1770). A chapel on the 1. near the choir contains a sarcophagus adorned with 8 basreliefs by Geefs, presented by King Leopold. St. Hubert, the tutelar^' saint of sportsmen, was once a profligate and impious prince , who did not scruple to indulge in the pleasures of the chase even on the solemn fast-days appointed by the Church. Whilst thus irreverently engaged on the holy fast of Good Friday, he suddenly beheld the miraculous apparition of a stag , with a cross growing from its forehead between its antlers. Thus warned by Heaven itself of the danger of adher- ing to his sinful courses . he at once desisted fronx the hunt , voluntarily relinquished all the honours and advantages of his noble rank, and deter- mined thenceforth to devote himself to a life of piety and self-abnegation. He according lydelivered up the whole of his fortune to the Church, became a monk , and founded the abbey and church which are still called by his name. The holy man is said to have enjoyed miraculous powers during his life-time , and long after his death numerous miracles were wrought by means of his relics. Unfortunately the latter, which once conferred their benefits on crowds of pious pilgrims who flocked hither to be cured of their diseases , were burned together with the church by the fanatical iconoclasts of the 16th cent. Notwithstanding this irreparable loss, however, a peculiar sanctity still attaches to the former scene of the saint's pious labours. Libramont. the watershed between the Lesse and the Semoy, 158 liouU 18. LUXKMliOl KG. rron, nnts.. 164) ; Choir-stalls in St. Gertrude's (p. 164)]. The name of the town is believed to be derived from Loo, signifying a wooded height, and Veen, a marsh. Venloo has the same etymology. In the 14th cent., when Lou- vain was the capital of the Duchy of Brabant, and residence of the princes, it numbered 44,000 inhab. (now 31,660). Of these a large proportion were engaged in the cloth-trade, and the town contained no fewer than 2000 manufactories. Here, as in other Flemish towns , the weavers were a very turbulent class , and always manifested great jealousy of the influence of the nobles in their civic administration. During an insurrection in 1378, thirteen magistrates of noble family were thrown from the window of the Hotel de Ville. and received by the populace below on the points of their spears. Duke Wenceslaus chastised the citizens for their rebellious conduct, by taking the city by force of arms, and com- pelling them to crave his pardon -with every token of abject humi- liation. The power of the nobles soon regained its ascendancy, and their tyrannical sway caused thousands of the industrious citizens to emigrate to England , whither they transplanted their handicraft. The decay of Louvain began at that period, and traces of it are apparent to this day. Louvain is a dull place , possessing little or no commercial traffic, and most of the inhabitants are engaged in agricultural pursuits. The walls, constructed in the 14th cent., enclose a large area unoccupied by houses, and employed almost exclusively as arable land. The ramparts by which the walls were formerly encirled, have been converted into promenades, forming a circuit of 5 M. The old market-place and the Grande Place are the only animated parts of the town. The latter, with the Hotel de Ville, the church of St. Peter, and the Halles in a side-street, presents Baedeker'.? Belgium and Holland. 2nd Edit. 1 { I G2 lioute 19. LOUVAIN. From Brussels a very imposing aspect. It is reached by the new Kue de la Station, in a straight direction. The **H6tel de Villa (PI. 1), one of the richest and most beautiful existing examples of late Gothic architecture, resembles the town-halls of Bruges , Ghent (in the older part) , Mons, and Oudenarde, but surpasses them in elegance and harmony of design. It was erected in 1448 — 63, probably by M. de Lay ens, a skilful architect of that period. The secular edifices in Belgium, of which this is perhaps the most remarkable, are far more elabo- rately decorated than the ecclesiastical. The delicately executed carving of the exterior, which had suffered greatly from exposure to the weather , was restored in 1842 with the utmost care by the sculptor Goyers. Portions of the decorations are entirely new, but the ancient models have been scrupulously imitated , and valuable assistance has been derived from the original drawings. The numerous prominent corbels, which it is intended to provide with statues, are embellished with admirably executed, and almost detached groups of miniature figures. Below are celebrated natives of Louvain (upwards of 80 statues have already been executed). On the first floor, figures emblematical of the privileges of the city ; above , the sovereigns of the land. — The interior is com- paratively insignificant. Most of the apartments are fitted up in a modern style , and adorned with pictures of little merit. A winged picture by Mich. Coxcie , representing the Ascension, is, however, worthy of notice. On the upper floor a model of the towers of St. Pierre is preserved. The Gothic church of *St. Pierre (PI. 3), opposite to the Hotel de Ville , a noble cruciform structure , was erected in the 15th cent. It originally possessed a wooden tower, burned down in 1458, and replaced by another which was destroyed by a storm in 1604. The celebrated Justus Lipsius is said to have invented the chronogram oMxIa CaDUnt, in order to commemorate the catastrophe. Interior. The 1st Chapel of the S. aisle contains an altar- piece copied from the original of De Crayer , which disappeared during the French Revolution, representing S. Carlo Borromeo administering the Eucharist to persons sick of the plague. An old winged picture by Van der Baeren (1594), the Martyrdom of St. Dorothea: statue of St. Charles, by Geerts , a sculptor of to Liege. LOUYAIN. 19. Route. 165 Antwerp (d. at Lou vain, 1855). 2nd Chapel: a curious, blackened image of Christ here is regarded with great veneration on account, of the legend attaching to it, that it once caught a thief who had entered the church with sacrilegious intent. The railing is adorned with armour and cannon. The Pulpit (Chaire de VeriteJ , carved in 1742 by Berge, represents Peters Denial on one side , and the Conversion of St. Paul on the other. The life-size figures, hewn out of solid blocks, of wood, are finely executed. The whole is surmounted by lofty palm-trees. The 3rd Chapel of the aisle contains a picture of Memling's school, representing the consecration of a cook as bishop, under Gregory V. The choir is separated from the nave by a rich and elaborate Rood Loft., or Ja6e, in the florid Gothic style, executed at the close of the 15th cent., consisting of three arches adorned with small statues, and surmounted by a lofty cross. The candelabrum is said to be the workmanship of Quentin Massys (p. 120). 5th Chapel, in the choir: Stuerbout, snxnaimed Dirk van Haar- lem (d. at Louvain, 1479), Martyrdom of St. Erasmus, a painful subject, in the background the Emperor with three attendants, richly attired; the whole is represented in a carefully executed landscape with blue mountains in the distance. 6th Chapel : De Crayer, The Holy Trinity. * Stuerbout, Last Supper, painted at the same time as the Martyrdom of St. Erasmus (1467). These two pictures, which possess very great value in the history of art> were formerly attributed to Mepaling. They have been recently- cleaned and retouched. Their Gothic rigidity is to some extent counterbalanced by the beautiful drawing and delicate colouring,, and the details are admirably executed. 7th Chapel : *Quentin Massys, Holy Family (carried off during- the French Revolution, restored in 1815), one of the greatest trea- sures of which the church boasts. The principal picture represents the Virgin and Child, with two other holy women, and children who appear to be learning to read. Behind them, four men, standing by an edifice in the Italian style, through the arches of which a distant landscape is seen beyond. On the wings , the Death of St. Anne , and the Expulsion of Joachim from the Temple , of which the former especially is worthy of examination. This work differs very materially in its character from the celebrated Piet?. 11* 164 Route 19. LOU VAIN. From Brussels at Antwerp (p. 12o). Its tone is sprightly and animated, whilst in drawing and colouring it is hardly inferior. Near the high altar is a Tabernacle (35 ft. in height), ■elaborately executed in stone, in the form of a Gothic tower, by Layens (in 1433), the architect of the Hotel de Ville. The 7th Chapel (N. side of choir) contains a *Descent from the Cross l)y Royier van der Weyden, a ^viIlged picture on a golden ground, nt the sides of which are the donors. This is a small duplicate of .a picture in the Museum at Berlin. The same chapel contains the tombstone of Henry IV. , Duke of Lorraine , the founder of the church; the basement is modern. The reliefs in the chapels on the r. , and the carved wood- work of the principal portal are worthy of careful inspection. The chapels containing the above celebrated pictures are generally FW^^^ a'^ r to Liege. ANS. 19. Route 167 -svhere his daughter Gertrude (d. 659) founded a convent. His fifth lineal descendant was Charlemagne, who ascended the throne of the vast Frank empire 128 years later. From Landen to Aix-la-Chapelle by a brancli-line in3— 4i|jhrs. : fares 8 fr. 15, 6 fr. 15, 4 fr. 5 c.— This route is somewhat shorter than the main line via Liege, but presents fewer attractions. teamer starts at an early hour, the whole expedition can be accomplished n one day , so that a night need not be spent at Mastricht. Breakfast nay be obtained on board of the steamers, where it will probably be more satisfactory than a hasty meal before starting. Travellers to Mastricht who intend to return to Liege should leave the Uulk of their luggage at Liege, in order to avoid the double formalities of the Dutch and Belgian douane in going and returning. Soon after the steamboat starts from the Qaai de Ui Batte (p. 173) at Liege, it passes two conspicuous buildings on the 1. bank, the Mont-de-Piete, or pledge-office, built of red brick, and the royal cannon-foundry , above which the citadel rises in the •ackground. The vine appears to thrive on some of the ne'gh- i'Ouring hills, but this district will probably never attain the rank of a wine-producing country. A short distance below Liege the river describes a long curve. r. Jupille, peeping from the midst of trees, a picturesque place with a loftily situated church. The village , which is of very ancient origin , was once a favourite residence of Pepin ot to Mastricht. HERSTAL. 21. Route. 179 Herstal, who died here in 714, and was also frequently visited by Charlemagne. The heights on the 1. bank now recede , retaining the same elevation until they terminate in the Petersberg near Mastricht. The plain is abundantly sprinkled with villages, manufactories, and country-houses. Numbers of tall chimneys bear testimony to the busy character of the population. The upper part of the hills on the r. bank are picturesquely wooded, whilst the land at their base resembles a vast orchard. r. Souverain-Wandre, a village hidden by trees. The 1. bank now becomes better cultivated and more attractive. 1. Herstal was the birthplace of Pepin of Herstal, 'le Gros". the 'maire du palais', or rather regent of the empire , especially as the Merovingian monarchs had already lost much of their original power. His son Charles Martel did not succeed in realising the ambitious schemes of his father; but his grandson Pepin the Little, having secured the approval of the Church and the entire kingdom, at length superseded the half imbecile Childeric III., surnamed Tlnsense , and thus usurped the throne of the vast Frank empire. He was crowned by Archbishop Boniface in 752, and died here in 768. Charlemagne himself is said to have been born at Herstal , but the truth of the tradition cannot now be ascertained. Charles the Bald of France concluded an impor- tant treaty here with Lewis the German in 870, concerning the partition of Lorraine, The village, which is nearly 3 M. in length, has gradually extended so far as almost to become a suburb of Liege. The inhabitants belong almost exclusively to the working classes, who are employed at the numerous manufactories of this district. About the beginning of the 13th cent, the village came by inheritance into the possession of Prussia, but was sold by Frederick the Great to the Bishop of Liege for 1/2 million francs. 1. Chertal, appertaining to Herstal. r. Cheratte, an unimportant village. r. The chateau of Argenteau, recently restored, belongs to a count of that name , the cousin and heir of the distinguished Austrian diplomatist, who died in 1794, The picturesque chateau stands on a bold rock, clothed on the summit with oak-plantations. The court of the building is connected by means of a lofty bridge with another rock, where the pleasure-grounds are situated. The 12* 180 Route 21. MA8TR1CHT. From Liege park, from which a chapel peeps forth, extends for a considerable distance to the N. The curious formations of the sandstone rock somewhat resemble those of the 'Saxon Switzerland' near Dresden. Argenteau is by far the finest point on this part of the river. 1. Hermalle. a village opposite to Argenteau. r. Vise (Hotel de Brabant) , with 2648inhab.. once a fortified town , was the head - quarters of Louis XIV. when he besieged Mastricht in 1673. The works were demolished in 1675. Remains of the town- walls are still visible. r. Navagne , at the influx of the Bervnnne into the Meuse. During the sieges^ of Mastricht in the iTth cent. , the Spaniards •constructed a fort here, which afterwards fell into the hands of the Dutch. It was then taken by the French, and existed till the be- iginning of the 18th cent., but no trace of the works now remains. 1. Lixhe, the seat of the Belgian douane. r. Eysden , the first Dutch station , and seat of the custom- liouse. is situated in an extensive plantation of fruit-trees, and surrounded by luxuriant pastures. The castle is of considerable antiquity. Eysden was formerly a favourite residence for retired tDfficers, and the seat of a masonic lodge. Since the Revolution, however, the freemasons and veterans alike appear to have de- serted the place. The Dutch custom-house officials cause a short detention here. The Petersberg, with its sandstone cliffs, rising nearly 400 ft. above the river, bounds the view towards the N. The chateau of Caster on the summit is the country-seat of a citizen of Liege. The ruins of the 'Caesar's Tower, or Lichtenberg , a venerable stronghold of Roman origin, next become visible. Immediately before it , one of the principal outlets of the sandstone quarries (p. 182) is seen from the deck of the steamboat. The citadel on the N. slope of the hill now comes in sight, and the steamer stops at the quay above the niiie-arched bridge, which was con- structed by a Dominican monk in 1683. 1. Mastricht, from -Maes-trecht' , i. e. Trajectum ad Mosam, >vas the Trajectum Superius of the Romans. Hotels. 'Levrier, or Has en wind (i.e. 'greyhound), in the Bosch- straat; Zwarte Arend or Aigle Noir, a good second-class inn; table d'hote in both at 1. 30 p. m., 3i|2 fr. — ^^ear the Petersthor and the church ■of Notre Dame, Mauel 's hotel with restaurant, unpretending. These inns are all at a considerable distance from the river. to Mastricht. MASTRICHT. -21. Route. ISf Guides. Fee for the services of a guide to the caverns, incl. lamps^ C fr. — Carriage from Mastricht to the upper entrance to the galleries 6 fr. Mastricht, the capital of the small portion of the province of Limburg which belongs to Holland, with 32,000 inhab. . is con- nected with the siiburb of Wijk by means of the bridge already- mentioned. It was formerly one of the strongest fortresses in Europe, defended by very extensive works, and undermined by a labyrinth of subterranean galleries, whilst the surrounding country- can be laid under water by means of sluices. The modern forti- fications on the 1. bank, which are designed for protection on the Belgian side, are a model of careful and scientific construction. The Citadel, situated on the N. slope of the Petersberg, is also* modern. Mastricht was besieged by the Spaniards, under the Duke of Parma, during four months, in 1579. The garrison consisted or iOOO soldiers (French, English, and Scottish), 1200 of the towns- people , and 2000 peasants from the environs. Notwithstanding the tenfold numerical superiority of the Spaniards , they were repulsed nine times by the sallies of the intrepid defenders. At length , greatly reduced in numbers , and exhausted by famine, the latter were compelled to succumb , although the defence was obstinately continued even after the besiegers had entered the town. The victors wreaked their vengeance on the ill-fated bur- ghers with savage cruelty. The greater part of the population^ which is said to have comprised 10,000 weavers alone (?) , per- ished by fire and sword, or in the waters of the Meuse. The value of the spoil was estimated at upwards of a mill on ducats, but the success of the Spaniards was purchased by a sacrifice of 8000 men. The fortress has sustained numerous other sieges , three of which are especially memorable and terminated with its capitu- lation, viz. that of 1732 by Prince Henry of Orange, that of 167^ by Louis XIV. , and that of 1748 by the French under Marshal Saxe. Mastricht was the only town in the S. part of the Nether- lands which was successfully defended by the Dutch against the Belgian insurgents after the eventful month of September, 1830.. The Hotel de Ville, or Stadhuis, situated in the great market-- place , and provided with a clock-tower , contains several valuable:- 182 Route 21. PETERSBERG. From Liege pictures of the Dutch School. The well-executed tapestry in the SalLe des Princes represents the history of the Israelites in the wilderness. The town-library is also established in this building. Several of the churches of Mastricht boast of great antiquity. That of Onze Vrouw, or Notre Dame, rests on Roman substruc- tures. The facade exhibits several incongruous styles of archi- tecture. The Cathedral of St. Servaes is believed to date from the Car- lovingian epoch, and a considerable part of the present structure belongs to the 11th and 12th centuries. One of the altar-pieces is a Descent from the Cross by Van Dyck. The modern statue of Charlemagne by "NV. Geefs was executed in 1845. The principal attraction at Mastricht is the subterranean laby- rinth of sandstone quarries which honeycomb the *Petersberg in every direction, and have been worked for upwards of a thousand years. The services of a guide in these bewildering mazes are indispensable (see above). It will be found most convenient to enter them near the house of the burgomaster of the \illage of St. Peter, 3/^ m. from Mastricht, and to ascend gradually to the upper outlet , near a suppressed Servite monastery (Slavanden. now the Casino , and property of a private society) ; or the ex- cursion may be undertaken in the reverse direction, and may be indefinitely extended by those who care to explore the more re- mote recesses. The formation of the Petersberg, extending from Mastricht to Liege, consists of a soft, yellowish, sandy and calcareous stone (sometimes termed 'chalk-tuff'), which has been deposited by the water of the ocean, and contains numerous conchyiia, fragments of coral , sharks' teeth, fossil turtles , bones of a gigantic marine monster resembling a crocodile , and other traces of its remote subaqueous origin. Many of these interesting fossils are preservetl in the collection at Liege (p. 173), and others may be inspected at the Athenccum at Mastricht. The so-called orgues geologiques. cylindrical openings of 1 — 7 ft. in diameter, and generally vertical, perforating the formation to a vast depth, and now filled with clay, sand, and rubble, are a singular phenomenon which has not yet been satisfactorily explained. It is conjectured that they were originally formed by submarine whirlpools, the action of which is known to produce circular orifices in rocks of much harder con- to Mastricht. PETERSBERG. -21. Route. 183 sistency, and that they were afterwards enlarged by the percola- tion of water impregnated with carbonic acid. The commercial value of the stone consists in the facility with which it is sawn into symmetrical blocks, and its property of hardening on exposure to the atmosphere. The galleries, which vary from 20 to 50 ft. in height, are supported by pillars of 12 — 14ft. in diameter, left for the purpose. The first excavations are believed to have been made by Roman soldiers, and the same systematic mode of working has been observed even since that period. Guicciardini's (p. 168) description of the quarries three centuries ago is so accurate even at the present day. that it is well worthy of repetition : 'Viscera mentis scatent lapide quodam molli, arenoso, et parvo negoti-i pectili, cujus ingens assidue hie effoditur copia, idqiie tam accurata conser- vandi et montis et fodientium cura , tamque altis, longis. flexuosis, et peri- culosis quoque meatibus." The galleries constitute a vast labyrinth, of 10 — 12 M. in length, and 6 — 7 M. in breadth, and are all so exactly similar in appearance, that their intricacies are known to a few experienceil guides only. Most of the entrances are closed, as adventurous travellers have not unfrequently perished in the foolhardy attempt to explore the quarries alone. The dead bodies, which have occa- sionally been found in the less frequented recesses, have been preserved from decomposition by the remarkable dryness of the air. and the lowness of the temperature. Thousands of names are rudely scratched on the pillars , and a genuine inscription of the year 1037 is even said to have been discovered. The quarries served as a place of refuge for the inhabitants of the neighbour- hood during the sanguinary wars of the 17th cent. , and have re- mained alike unaffected by the horrors of that period and the action of the elements. One of the phenomena pointed out by the guides is the gra- dual formation of a small natural reservoir in the roots of a fossil tree, by the dropping of water from the branches, which still re- main embedded in the ceiling, the intermediate part having been removed in the course of the excavations. The invariable temperature in the quarries is about 56'^ Fahr. , but even in hot weather the visitor soon becomes accustomed to it ; whilst the remarkable dryness of the interior renders the walk far more agreeable than most other subterranean expeditions. On 184 Route 21. MAASEYCK. emerging from these gloomy depths, the traveller enjoys a charm- ing view of the river and its serpentine course for many miles through the hroad and fertile plain , of the town with its pictu- resque towers and bridge , and of the pleasing and cheerful en- virons, — forming a delightful termination to the excursion. The terrace of the Casino (refreshments) already mentioned is the finest point of view. Railway to Aix-la-Chapelle, Hasselt, and Antwerp, see R. 14. To Rotterdam via Venlo, Eindhoven, and Moerdijk. To Moerdijk by the new Dutch govt, railway in 5'|2 hrs. ; thence by steamboat via Dordrecht to Rotterdam see R. 13; fares for the entire journey 8 fl. . 5 fl. 85, 3 fl. 85 cts. As far as Venlo the line proceeds towards the N.. following the course of the Meuse. which however is rarely visible. Stations^ Bunde , Beek-Elsloo, Geleen , Sittard, Susteren^ Echt, Jfaasbrac/it, Roermond or Ruremond (a small town with 9000 inhab. at the influx of the Roer, with considerable woollen manufactories). Opposite Susteren , on the bank of the Meuse , lies the small town of Maaseyck (4528 inhab.), the birthplace of the brothers Van Eyck, to whom a liandsome monument in marble was erected here in 1864. Then otat. Stcalmen, Reuver , Tegelen, and Venlo (Zicijnshoofd), a for- tified town on the r. bank of the Meuse. To the 1. rises Fori St. Michel. Venlo is the junction of the lines from Aix-la-Chapelle, Cologne, Diissel- dorf. Duisburg, and Cleve , and will also be touched jby the projected line from Paris to Hamburg. Our line crosses the Meuse, and, beyond Helmond, the Zuid Willems- Canal. The tract between these two points is a swamp, 23 M. in length and 7 M. in width, yielding abundance of excellent turf or peat. Stations Blerick., Horst-Sevenum, Helenaceen., Leurne, Helmond, Nuenen- Tongelre., and Eindhoven on the Dommel. Branch Line to Hasselt, see p. 143. District flat. Stat. Best, and Boxtel at the influx of the Beerze into the Dommel. Railway to Hertogen- bosch and Utrecht, see p. 143. Xear stat. Oisterioijk our line crosses the Xieuioe Ley, another small affluent of the Dommel. Tilburg (Zwaard), with 17,000 inhab., and an ancient chateau, possess- es 84 cloth-factories, which annually produce upwards of 20,000 pieces of cloth, most of them of a superior quality. — Stat. Gilze-Rijen and Breda (Hotel de Flandre ; Goude Leeuic), with 15,000 inhab., is a fortress on the Mtrk and the Aa, two small rivers which, with the marshy district aruund it , render the place almost impregnable, but at the same time un- healthy. The principal church contains the 'monument of Count Engelbert IT. of Nassau . the general and favourite of the Emp. Charles V. , and his wife Mary of Baden , attributed to Michael Angelo. Their figures , sculptured in Italian alabaster, rest on a sarcophagus, and four statues (Ceesar, Regulus, Hannibal , and Philip of Macedon) in a half kneeling attitude bear a slab un which the admirably wrought armour of the Count is placed. The choir contains some good wood-carving, representing monks in ludicrous postures, in derision of the Romish clergy. — The Old Palace was erected in 1050 by ^l.an^O\ Tille,. COyRSEflFTMllllEUSE. Irom Dm£uit I o liede . jf^'^y* ^^an^ X. • Engl. Miles Scale i; MO 000. FLEMALLE. 185 Count jHenry of Nassau, the 2*iw Palace in ,1696 by William of Orange, King of England. The fortress is a quadrangle . surrounded by the river Merk. A Dutch military academy was founded here in 1826. but transferred to Medemblick in 1836. Branch Line to Roozendaal and Antwerp , see p. 141. At stat. Lange- iceg the line crosses the Dintel , and shortly afterwards reaches Moerdijk. Thence to Dordrecht and Rotterdam . see R. 13. 22. From Liege to Namur. Railway (constructed by an English company, now the property of the Compagnie du Xord) in 1' 4— 2i,j hrs. : fares 5 fr. , 3 fr. 80, 2 fr. 50 c. ^ express 6 fr. 20, 4 fr. 70 c. — Trains start simultaneously from both sta- tions at Liege and meet at Fle'malle Junction. The steamers have ceased to ply on this part of the river, and glimpses only of its picturesque and rocky scenery are obtained from the train. The traveller should endeavour to secure a seat in the last compartment of a first-class carriage, with seats on one side only, and windows across the en- tire end. This portion of the valley of the Meuse is remarkably pictu- resque and attractive . and at several points well worthy of com- parison with that of the Rhine. Bold cliffs , ruined castles , rich pastures . and thriving villages are passed in uninterrupted suc- cession , and numerous foundries and manufactories with their lofty chimneys, bear testimony to the enterprising character of the inhabitants. The entire district is densely populated, the land well cultivated , and the scenery pleasantly diversified with hop- gardens, corn-fields, and meadows. Several quarries on both banks yield excellent marble , which is largely exported to Holland, where it is used for paving and decorative purposes. Ougree and Seraing (p. 176) are stations on the r. , Tilleur and Jemeppe stations qn the 1. bank of the river, all remarkable tor their picturesque situation , and their numerous manufactories and coal-mines. Flemaile, a village of some importance, is the junction of the lines of the r. and 1. banks. The bridge which here crosses the river, and the branch-line (that of the r. bank) were constructed chiefly with a view to connect the valuable coal-mines on the 1. bank \Nith the great iron-works on the opposite side of the river, and the latter with the main line between Brussels and Cologne. Farther on. to the r.. on a precipitous rock rising almost im- mediately from the river, stands the chateau of Chokier , of an- 186 Route 22. HUY. From Liege cient origin, but dating chiefly from the previous century. The red tower and substantial walls present a very picturesque ap- pearance. Baron Surlet de Chokier, a member of the noble family to whom the chateau belongs, was regent of Belgium during five months previous to the election of King Leopold. Then, at some distance from the river, on the 1., the castle of Aigremont, with its white walls , rising conspicuously on the summit of a lofty ridge, the property of Count d'Outremont. It is said to have been originally erected by the Quatre Fils Aymon, four tradition- ary heroes of the middle ages. In the 15th cent, it was the central point of the warlike exploits of William de la Marck, the 'Wild Boar of the Ardennes' (p. 195). To the 1. , opposite stat. Engis, stands the chateau of Engihoul, at the base of a limestone rock. Stat. Hermalle , with a handsome chateau and park, is a nother picturesque spot, between which and Neuville the scenery is less attractive , and the banks are flatter. Stat. Amay is a market-town at some distance from the river, possessing a Byzantine church and several conspicuous towers. Neuville is a modern chateau , beyond which the bank traversed by the railway becomes bolder and more picturesque. It lies nearly opposite stat. Ampsin, where a ruined tower and fragment?^ of walls are seen on the bank of the river. The train continues to skirt the base of the hills on the 1. bank, of which no view is obtained. The first important station on the line isj Huy, Flem. Hoey (* Aigle Noir; * Foste), a town with 10,755 inhab. The Citadel, constructed in 1817, forms a square, with bastions and numerous casemates, rising from the river in terraces of batteries. The works are partially hewn in the solid rock, and command both banks of the river. The hiUs on the 1. bank are here more than 1/2 M. distant from the river. The Collegiate Church is a fine structure, dating from 1311. The old gateway by the choir is adorned with quaint reliefs of the 11th cent., representing the Nativity, the Adoration of the Magi, and Herod. The large statues of the Virgin, St. Maternus, and St. Dominicus. and the rose-windows of the same early period are still more in- teresting. The abbey of Neufmoustier , founded by Peter the Hermit (d. 1115), formerly stood in one of the suburbs of Huy, and the great preacher of the Crusades was himself buried here. A statue to Namur. ANDENNE. 22. Route. 1S7 has been erected to him in the garden of the old abbey. This was one of no fewer than 17 conventual establishments which Huy possessed under the regime of the bishops of Liege, although the population of the town at that period was less than half of what it is at the present day. — Charming excursions may be made hence into the valley of the Hoyoux . a brook which falls into the Meuse at Huy. Stat. Bas-Oha, with an old castle restored as a country-resi- dence, boasts of a few vineyards. On the height opposite are the ruins of the castle of Beaufort, destroyed in 1554. Stat. Andenne, a small town with 6370 inhab. , is a busy place, with several extensive paper, fayence. and other manufacto- ries. The fine white clay dug in the vicinity is exported in great quantities to Holland, where it is used for making tobacco-pipes. Down to 1785 a religious establishment of 32 sisters , exclusively of noble family, and not bound by any vow to abstain from ma- trimony, had existed here for upwards of a thousand years. It is said to have been founded by St. Begga, daughter of Pepin of Herstal (p. 179). and the order is thought to be identical with that of the Beguines, who are also permitted to marry. The estab- lishment was transferred to Namur by Emp. Joseph II. Andenne is connected by a modern iron bridge with Seilles on the 1. bank, a straggling village of considerable extent, the last in the district of Liege. There are several lime-kilns here, and a handsome chateau restored in the style of the 15th cent. The columns of the Palais de Justice at Liege (p. 169) are of the blue limestone which is quarried in this neighbourhood. Sclaigneaux is the station for Sclayn, a prosperous and pictu- resquely situated village on the opposite bank. Stat. Nameche, an- other pretty village, lies opposite Samson, a village at the foot of a magnificent and precipitous white cliff of limestone. Above Sam- son are situated the ruins of an ancient castle, once the residence of Sibylla of Lusignan , mother of Baldwin Y. , the last king of Jerusalem. A long breakwater here projects into the river in order to deepen the navigable channel. The rocks between Sclayn and Namur are not unlike the curious formations of the 'Saxon Switzer- land". On the opposite bank, farther on, rises the chateau of Moisnil\ then that of Brumagne , the property of Baron de Woelmont. J 88 Eoute -23. CHENEE. Stat. Marche-les-Dames, adjoining -which are the iron-works of Enouf, is charmingly situated. The chateau of the Due d'Arem- berg, which peeps forth from amidst groups of trees on the cliff, occupies the site of an ancient abbey, founded in 1101 by 139 noble ladies whose husbands had joined the Crusade and accom- panied Godfrey de Bouillon to the Holy Land. The rocky bank is so precipitous and barren in many places , as to resemble the ruins of a gigantic wall. Unfortunately, however, many of the finest points of this remarkable and attractive scenery are entirely lost to the railway-traveller. Namur, see p. 146. 23. From Liege to Aix-la-Chapelle. Rail w ay in 21,4—4 hrs. : fares to Verviers 2 fr. , 1 fr. 50 , 1 fr. 5 c. : express 2 fr. 80, 2 fr. — Fares from Verviers to Aix-la-Chapelle (express) 5 fr. 7 c. . 3 fr. 62 c. Thraugh-tic\i.ets upwards of one-third higher (comp. IntTod. VII.). Carriages are changed at Verviers, where there is generally a detention of 20 min. or ij-i hr. — Herbesthal is the Prussian frontier-station, where the small articles of luggage taken by the traveller into the carriage are examined. All the packages in the luggage-van are examined at the termination of the journey. The district traversed by the line as far as the Prussian frontier is re- markable for its picturesque scenery, its busy manufactories, its beautiful country-residences, and for the engineering skill with which the line itself has been constructed. Precipitous hills of considerable height are penetrat- ed by about twenty tunnels ; profound ravines are crossed by means of lofty bridges; whilst embankments, cuttings, and viaducts are passed in rapid suc- cession. The construction of this portion of the line, about 25 M. in length is said to have cost upwards of 25 million francs. The picturesque stream which the line crosses so frequently is the Vesdre, and pleasant glimpses of its well-wooded banks are obtained on both sides of the train. The rock- formation penetrated by most of the tunnels is a bluish limestone, frequently veined with quartz , and often employed for building purposes. This, the most beautiful portion of the journey between (England and Germany, is of course missed by those who travel by the night-express ; but travellers to whom it is not already familiar should by all means see it by daylight. The train starts from the Station des Guillemins at Liege, situated about 1 M. from the principal hotels, crosses the hand- some Pont du Val BenoU , and soon passes the extensive zinc- foundry of the Vieille Montagne Co. The Ourthe is now crossed near its confluence with the Vesdre; junction line to Marche see p. 156. Stat. Chenee is a busy manufacturing place. Beyond it, the village of Vaux-sous-Chevremont lies to the 1. of the line. VERVIERS. 23. Route. 189 Stat. Chaudfontaine (* Grand Hotel des Bains: Hotel d'An- gleterre) , a small and beautifully situated watering-place , attracts numerous visitors from Liege. The thermal spring (1040 Fahr.) which supplies the baths is situated on an island in the Yesdre, and is pumped up by means of a powerful water-wheel. The river is here crossed by a handsome suspension-bridge. Chaudfontaine, like the great German watering-places, boasts of the amenities of a 'Cursaal' situated near the station, in the garden of which con- certs are given in summer. In the rear of the church a pleasant path, provided with seats, leads to the top of the hill (a walk of 10 min.) , at the base of which the village lies. A fine view of the vaUey of the^Vesdre is enjoyed thence. On the height to the 1., beyond the tunnel stands the pictu- resque chateau of La Rochette. Farther on, immediately to the r. of the railway, rises the turreted old castle of Le Trooz, perched upon a precipitous rock , and employed for upwards of a century as a manufactory for boring gun-barrels. Beyond it, the station of the same name is passed. The chateau of Fraipont next be- comes visible on the r. Then stat. Nessonvaux. A short distance farther, to the r. of the line, lies the modern Chateau de Masures (masure = old hut, or ruined wall), erected by M. Biolley, a wealthy Belgian manufacturer, who was ennobled in 1846. This picturesque Gothic villa, approached by a suspen- sion-bridge, is said to occupy the site of a hunting-seat of Pepin the Little, father of Charlemagne, which stood here upwards of a thousand years ago. Beyond the next tunnel , the train reaches Stat. Pepinster, junction for Spa and Luxembourg (see R. 24). The name is said to be derived from 'Pepins terre", the district having anciently belonged to the ancestors of Charlemagne. Stat. Ensival on the 1. of the line, is an extensive village near Verviers. of which it has become almost a suburb. Venders (^Hotel du Chemin de Fer , at the station, R. 2, D. 2, B. 1 fr. ; Pays-Bas, in the town), the last Belgian station, is a town (popul. 33,312) of entirely modern origin, consisting exclusively of extensive manufactories , the substantial dwellings of their proprietors , and the humbler habitations of the artisans. Cloth is the staple commodity of the place. Upwards of 350,000 pieces are manufactured annually in Verviers and the environs, the value of which is estimated at 80 million francs. The prin- 190 lioute -23. I.IMBURG. From Liege oipal manufacturers (Biolley, Shnonis. etc.) possess depots in Italy, and even [export their wares to America. The uniforms of the Belgian army are made of cloth manufactured here. The water of the Vesdre is said to be peculiarly well adapted for the pur- poses of dyeing. To the r., as the town is entered from the station, is situat- ed the ^ Harmonie' , the property of a private society, and adorned with a colonnade. A simple fountain on the 1. is adorned with a bust of Napoleon, erected as a token of gratitude to the emperor under whose auspices the prosperity of Verviers first took its rise. The Eglise des Recollets , or Church of the Franciscans , the first on the 1., is uninteresting. The church of St. Remacle , on the E. side of the town, erected in 1834 at the cost of the principal manufacturers, is totally destitute of decoration, resembling a Lu- theran place of worship. The mural paintings in the choir, re- presenting Christ surrounded by angels, are by Beilemans of Ant- werp. The Hotel de Ville in the market-place bears the inscription: 'Publicite sauvegarde du peuple\ Near it is the Theatre. During the working hours Verviers has an almost deserted ap- pearance. Its pallid population is visible only at the hours of meals, or late in the evening, especially on the E. side of the town. Two hours are allowed for dinner in the middle of the day (12 — 2), but work is begun at an early hour (6 or 7 a. m.), and terminated late (7 or 8 p. m.). Beyond Verviers the train passes through seven tunnels , and crosses several bridges within a distance of 6 M. — Stat. Dolhain, a modern place, picturesquely situated in the valley of the Vesdre, occupies the site of the lower part of the ancient city of Limburg. On the height above it stands the conspicuous castle of Limburg, once an important defence of the capital of the fertile Duchy, of which but few traces now remain. The city possessed a cathe- dral and five other churches, a massive stone bridge over the Vesdre, and strong fortifications, occupying the entire breadth of the valley of Dolhain. Limburg suffered its first serious calam- ity in 1288, when it was sacked by Duke John I, of Brabant after the Battle of Worringen. It was subsequently captured and pillaged at different periods by the Dutch, the Spaniards, and the P>ench , notwithstanding which it appears from the ^Topographia Germaniae Inferioris', published in 1659. to have been a flourishing to Aix-la-Chapelle. HERBESTHAL. 23. Route. 191 and populous place down to that date. It was at length indebted for its utter annihilation to the 'most Christian" monarch Louis XIV. in 1675. The substructures only of the huge towers of the castle on the E. side of the hill are still recognisable. This was the ancestral seat of the powerful ducal family of Limburg, from which the Counts of Luxembourg and the German Emperors Henry Yll. , Charles IV.. Wenceslaus, and Sigismund were descended. A num- ber of well built houses have sprung up within the walls of the ancient fortifications , from which the old Gothic Church of St. George peeps forth. The walls and buttresses of the sacred edi- fice . as well as a finely executed tabernacle have survived the \icissitudes of the ill-fated city. The tombstone of a Princess of Baden (d. 1672), wife of Prince Francis of Nassau, the Spanish governor of Limburg, who surrendered the fortress to the French in 1675, is also preserved. The interior is modern. The heights command a fine view of the green valley and the bridge over the Vesdre. Herbesthal, the first station in the Prussian dominions, is the junctirin for Eupen, a shiall town about 4 M. distant (by train in 1/4 hr.). The formalities of the douane , generally very lenient, cause a detention of about 10 min. Beyond stat. Assenet , the train crosses the Goehl Valley by means of a viaduct of 17 double arches, 117 ft. in height. On the 1. lies the village of Lontzen, with the chateau of Welken- hausen, which was formerly held by the Prebendary of Aix-la- Chapelle as a vassal of the King of Prussia and the Elector Pa- latine, by whom alternately the investiture was granted. Farther on, to thai., on the slope of the wooded hills, is situated the Eineburg, or Emmaburg, once a country-residence of Charlemagne . where his secretary Eginhard is said to have be- come enamoured of the emperor's daughter Emma, whom he after- wards married. In the vicinity of the Emmaburg, on the Belgian and Prussian frontier, is situated the so-called neutral territory of Moresnet , a tract about 3 M. in length, and 3/^ M. in breadth, containing the valuable zinc -mines of the Altenberg , or Vieille Montague., the property of a company whose works are near Liege (p. 188). Owing to some difficulties in adjusting territorial questions at the beginning of the present century, this community was left in an anomalous position of neutrality, or perhaps rather 192 Route i>i. SPA. of amenability to the jurisdiction ot both countries, as it pays a trifling tax to Belgium as well as to Prussia. Next, to the 1., the village of Hergenrad, beyond which the train passes through a short tunnel, and then a longer one, 720 yds. in length. The train now reaches stat. Ronheide , and de- scends an inclined plane to Aix-la-Chapelle (see Baedeker's N. Germany). Railways hence to Mastricht (_p. 143), Cologne, Dilsseldorf, etc. 24. Baths of Spa. From Spa to Luxembourg. Railway from Pepinster (p. 189) to Spa in ',2 lir. ; fares 1 fr. 8> the Austrians. The 'Wild Boar' was conducted to Wastricht, where he termi- nated his blood-stained career on the scaffold at the early age of 39 years. He died, as he had lived, with unflinching courage and resolution, and met ins merited fate with composure. From Spa to Luxembourg. 114 M. Railway in 4' o hrs. : fares 12 fr. 10. 9 Ir. 10, 6 fr. 45 c. The train at first proceeds in an E. direction, traversing a iiilly. and in some places well wooded district, and afterwards turns to the S. — Stat. Francorchamps, then Stavelot (Hotel d' Orange), a thriving manufacturing town with 4000 inhab. , on the AmbVtve, and down to the Peace of Lune- ville in 1801 the seat of abbots of princely rank and independent jurisdiction. The Benedictine Abbey was founded as early as o51, and its possessions extended as far as Malmedy, which since 1815 has been within the dominions of Prussia. A small por- *ion of the tower only of the abbey-church , an ancient structure in the Romanesque style, is now extant. The parish -church contains the Chasse de St. Remade, Bishop of Liege 652—62, I reliquary of embossed copper, gilded, enamelled, and adorned •vith precious stones. The niches at the sides are filled with -tatuettes of the twelve Apostles, St. Remaclus, and St. Lambert. in silver. During the French Revolution this costly and highly to Luxembourg. DIEKIRCFL -24. Route. 197 revered receptacle of the relics of the saint, which it is said still to contain . was preserved from destruction by being submerged in the water of the Ambleve. The line follows the valley of the Ambleve as far a^ star Trois-Ponts, where it enters the picturesque ravine of the Salm. Stations Grand-Ualleux, Viel-Salm. Farther on, to the r. of the line, is situated the ruined castle of Salm, the ancestral seat of the princely family of that name. The line now quits the valley of the Salm. and at stat. Gouvry crosses the watershed between the Meuse and Moselle, which is at the same time the Luxembourg frontier. Stat. Trois- Vierges lies in the valley of the Wolz. which the line now traverses. Several unimportant stations, MaulusmiihU, Clervaux, Wilweru'iltz . Kautenbach : then Goebesmuhle . at the confluence of the Wolz and the Sure . or Snur. The most beautiful scenery on the line lies between this point and Ettelbriick , the following station . and a number of tunnels and bridges are passed in rapid succession. A branch- line connects Ettelbriick (train in 10 min.J with Diekirch (Hotel des Ardennes), a small town prettily situated on the Sure. About 9 M. lower down the same stream lies Echtemach. a favourite place of pious resort, celebrated for the singular 'Leaping Pro- cession" which takes place here annually on Whit-Tuesday. The abbey enjoyed an independent jurisdiction till 1801. At Ettelbruck the train enters the valley of the Alzette . ar first narrow and picturesque, and follows the course of the streau. as far as Luxembourg. Stations Colmar-Bery . Mersch . Lintgen, Wolferdange. Dommeldange. and finally Luxembourg, see p. lo8. 25. From Brussels to Paris. A. By Mens, Valenciennes, Douai, Arras, and Amiens. Belgian Railway to Quicvrain , where the line enters the French do- luinions. From Brussels to Paris in 10 — 11 hrs. ; no express trains by this route beyond Mens. Fares to Paris 36 fr. 5, 27 fr.. 19 fr. 45. As far as Braine-le-Comte , see p. 14-i. Soignies, a town with 6T59 inhab., possesses a venerable abbey-church (St. Vincent} in the purest Romanesque style, founded in the Tth cent., and 198 Route 25. MONS. From Brussels probably the most ancient structure in Belgium , erected in its present form by St. Bruno, Archbishop of Cologne, in 965. Many of the tombstones in the churchyard date from the 13th and 14th centuries. Extensive quarries of mountain-limestone in the neighbourhood. The line then describes a wide curve, pursuing for some distance a direction nearly opposite to that of Mons, until it reaches stat. Jurbise , where the line to Tournai and Courtrai diverges. The chateau of Belceil, situated 6 M. to the \V. of Jurbise, the seat of the Prince Ligne , may also be con- veniently visited from Ath , on the direct line from Brussels to Tournai (see p. 55). Mons, Flem. Bergen (Hotel Garin; Hotel Royal), the capital of Hainault , with 26,943 inhab. , owes its origin to a fortress erected here by Caesar during his campaigns against the Gauls. The fortifications were dismantled by the Emp. Joseph II. , but were reconstructed in a superior style in 1818. They consist of a polygon, surrounded by 14 bastions, and are regarded as a model of engineering skill. The facility with which the sur- rounding district can be laid under water from the river Trouillt contributes materially to the strength of the place , whilst it is protected on the E. by two lakes of considerable extent. The works are, however, again doomed to destruction, and will shortly be entirely demolished. The coal-mines in the environs of Mons are very productive, yielding between seven and eight million tons annually, valued at 84 million francs. The total produce of the coal-mines of Belgium is estimated at 10 million tons annually, of the value of 105 million francs; of the 78,232 miners employed, 60,734 belong to the province of Hainault alone. The average yield of the Bel- gian mines between 1836 and 1841 amounted to 31/2 ^f^ill- to"* only, three-fourths of which were obtained from this district. The most valuable coal-field is the Bassin du Flenu, in the vicinity of the town, to the 1. of the road to Jemappes. The most interesting edifice at Mons is the Cathedral of Ste. Waltrude, situated on the 1. as the town is entered from the station. It was commenced in 1460, but not completed till 1582. The tower was never erected, and the church possesses a small spire only. The exterior is somewhat disfigured by mo- dern additions, but the interior is a model of boldness and ele- to Paris. MONS. 25. Route. 199 jrance. The slender clustered columns are vdthout capitals, rising immediately to the vaulting and keystones. Several reliefs in marble of the 16th cent. . by Dubrucque . are -worthy of in- spection. One of the lateral chapels contains a large and curious representation of the Resurrection. A modern painting on the W. wall, by Isendyk. represents Ste. Waudru. or St. "Waltrude, healing the sick. The church formerly appertained to a semi- ecclesiastical establishment , founded by St. Waltrude , for ladies of noble rank, who devoted one half of the day to religious, and the other half to secular pursuits , and were permitted to marry. Orders of this practical character appear to have been common in Belgium in the middle ages (orders of St. Begga at Andenne, of the Be'guines at Ghent, Bruges etc., see pp. 187, 46. 22). To the 1. of the cathedral , and occupying the highest ground in the town, rises the Beffroi, or belfry, belonging to the former palace , which is now fitted up as a lunatic asylum. The tower, which is said to stand on the ancient site of the castle of Caesar, was erected in 1662, and contains a 'carillon', or set of chimes. The Hotel de Ville, erected in 1440, with a tower added in 1718, is greatly inferior to those of Brussels, Louvain, etc., although of the usual Belgian type. A handsome monument, by Frison, was erected here in 1853, to the memory of the celebrated composer Orlando di Lasso, or Roland de Lattre, who was born at Mons in 1520. The direct line to Paris via Hautmont and Maubeuge (p. 204) diverges at Mons from the route at present described. Near Ifalplaquet , 3 31. to the S.E. , Marlborough and Prince Eugene gained a signal victory over the French in 1700, but not without a loss of nearly 20,000 men. In the vicinity , Pichegru defeated the Duke of York on May 18th, 1794, capturing 60 guns and 1500 men. At Jemappes , 3 31. to the W. , Dumouriez and the Due de Chartres (Louis Philippe)', with an army of 50.000 men , defeated 22,000 Austrians under the Duke of Saxe-Teschen, who was compelled to retreat beyond the Meuse, Nov. 6th, 1792. Stat. St. Ghislain lies on the canal by means of which the produce of the coal-mines of Mons is transported to Conde, JJornu, a large village to the 1. of the railway, nearly opposite 200 Route 25. VALENCIENNES. From Brussels the latter , is an extensive colony of miners and artisans , who occupy large buildings resembling barracks. Near Boussu, on the 1. of the line, on April 29th, 1792, the Austrian Gen. Beaulieu surprised and defeated the French under Biron , whose disastrous flight and 'sauve qui pent' are so well known. ThuUn lies on the r. ; then, on the 1, . Quievrain, the seat of the Belgian, and Blanc- Misseron , that of the French douane. The examination of luggage, however, frequently does not take place until the train arrives at Valenciennes. The transition from the picturesque, populous, and indistrial district of Hainault to t!ie flat and monotonous agricultural tracts of this part of France is here very perceptible. Valenciennes (Poste; * Hotel des Princes; * Railway Restau- rant), an ancient fortress on the Schelde, or Escaut, with 24,000 inhab., is a dirty and uninviting town, with narrow, old-fashioned streets. The principal building is the Hotel de Ville, in which Gothic is combined with modern architecture. If the traveller have occasion to make Valenciennes a resting-place, he may devote a few hours to the civic Museum , which contains a few pictures by Rubens , and the church of St. Gt'ry , with a fine Descent from the Cross by the same master. A monument was erected in 1856 to the celebrated historian Froissart , a native of the town. Valenciennes formerly belonged to Hainault. In 1656 it was unsuccessfully besieged by Turenne. By the Peace of Ny- megen it came into the possession of France, and was fortified anew by Vauban. In 1793 it was taken by the Austrian, Hanoverian, and British Allies under the Duke of York and the Prince of Cobourg, but was retaken by the French in the follow- ing year. The lace manufactured here has lost much of its an- cient reputation. Immediately after quitting the station , the train crosses the Schelde. In the vicinity, to the 1. of the line, are the celebrated coal-mines of Anzin. At Raismes the line enters an extensive wood. Then several small stations in an unattractive district. Douai (Hotel de Flandre), on the Scarpe, with 22,000 inhab., situated at some distance from the railway , has been a fortress to Paris. ARRAS. 25. Route. 2Ul of considerable importance for many centuries. In the interior the town is far more prepossessing than Valenciennes. The Hotel de Vilie , with its Beffroi and five towers, is a fine example of the Flemish secular architecture of the 15th cent. The central tower is still surmounted with the Flemish Lion as a weather- cock. Douai possesses an important artillery school , and a cannon- foundry where a large proportion of the ordnance of the French army is cast. The Ghent -Courtrai -Lille line here unites with the present route. The following stations are Vitry and Roeux , both in the de- partment Pas - de - Calais , the capital of which, Arras (Hotel de VEurope), with 25,27i inhab. , formerly the chief town of the County of Artois, is next reached. The town, situated on the Scarpe, and fortified by Vauban, is now a prosperous, manu- facturing place, the seat of one of the three great French schools for engineers, and an episcopal see. The Grande Place and the Place de I' Hotel de Ville , with the Hotel de Ville and Belfry, and several venerable buildings of the 15th — 17th cent. , all of which still retain their mediaeval exterior, are very picturesque. In 1640, when Arras was garrisoned by the Spaniards and captured by the French , the victors on entering the town found the following inscription over one of the town-gates : ^Quand les Fran^ais prendront Arras, Les souris mangeront les chats'. They suffered the inscription to remain, but by simply deleting the letter p in the fourth word they appropriated the boast to themselves. — The tapestry to which Arras has given its name was formerly extensively manufactured here. Corbie, the fourth station beyond Arras, possessing a handsome abbey - church , which bears some resemblance to Notre Dame at Paris, was formerly a fortress, but was dismantled by Louis XIY. The line crosses the Somme several times. Longdeau (*Rail. Restaurant), near Amiens, is the junction of the Amiens-Boulogne and the Paris lines. Travellers proceeding to Amiens quit the Paris train here, and are conveyed to the station of Amiens in 10 min. (*Rail. Refreshment-rooms). Amiens {Hotel de France; Hotel de Paris; Hotel du Rhin. 202 Route 25. AMIENS. From Brussels with a small garden, near the station, unpretending; Hotel de ITnivers'), -with 58,780 inhab. , situated on the Somme, formerly the capital of Picardy, now that of the Department of the Somme, is one of the most important manufacturing towns in France. Cotton goods form the staple commodity. The well-known peace between France and England was concluded here in 1802. The * Cathedral , one of the most beautiful Gothic structures in Europe, was erected in 1220 — 88 by the architects Robert de Luzarche , Thomas de Cormont, and Renault, son of the latter. The slender spire which rises over the transept is constructed of wood , having been erected in 1529 to replace the original tower, destroyed by lightning two years previously. The towers of the W. facade are uncompleted; that on the N. side dates from the 15th. the other from the 13th cent. The flying buttresses have been restored recently. The three lofty and receding Portals of the W. facade are richly adorned with reliefs and statues. The reliefs of the central portal represent the Last Judgment, the statues the twelve Apos- tles. The admirable figure of the Saviour, which separates the doors of the central portal, is known as 'le beau Dieu d'Amiens'. On the r., above the portal, the Entombment, Assumption, and Coronation of the Virgin; on the 1. the history of St. Firmin, the tutelary saint of Picardy. The nave is of the imposing height of 130 ft. , the aisles 60 ft. only. The choir, with its double aisles, is flanked by a series of seven chapels. The lateral chapels of the aisles were added at a comparatively recent period, openings having been made between the buttresses for the purpose, as in Notre Dame at Paris. The magnificent wheel-windows are 35 ft. in diameter. The piers which support the church taper slightly , so that the pavement appears narrower than the vaulting. The triforium, or arcade beneath the windows of the nave, affords a fine survey of the interior of the church. If the visitor have ascended thus far, he should not omit to walk round the external galleries, and to ascend the spire, both of which will be found interesting. The sacristan's dwelling adjoins the N. portal of the W. faoade (fee 1 fr.). The interior of the cathedral is shown by the to Paris. AMIENS. -25. Route. 203 Suisse, or verger, whose services, ho^wever, may well be dis- pensed with. The S. transept contains reliefs of the beginning of the 16th cent., gilded and painted, representing in four sections the history of St. James the Great. Beneath are tablets bearing names of members of the -Fraternite' du Puy* ; above, several small modern reliefs in marble. The N. transept contains similar reliefs of the same period, also in four sections , representing the expulsion of the money- changers from the Temple, and other events from the history of that sacred edifice. The adjoining sarcophagus of stone, believed to date from the 11th cent., probably once served as a font. By the N. wall of the choir, the history of John the Baptist ; by the S. wall the history of St. Firmin , and the discovery of his body, works executed in 1489 and 1530. At the back of the high altar is the monument of the canon Lucas , by Blasset , erected at the beginning of last century. Between the statues of the Virgin and the canon , a weeping angel is represented. The merits of the monument, and especially of the -enfant pleureur' are often greatly overrated. The choir-stalls, carved at the beginning of the 16th cent., are worthy of notice. The two large statues in marble at the entrance to the choir represent St. Vincent de Paule, and S. Carlo Borromeo. Amiens possesses little else to interest the traveller. The statue in the large Place, on the way from the station to the town, is that of the linguist Dufresne Ducange (d. 1688), who was a native of Amiens. The traveller proceeding to Paris now returns to Longdeau (p. 201). Near Boves , the next station , are the ruins of a chateau where Henry IV. , 'ce vert galanV, frequently resided with the beautiful Gabrielle d'Estre'es. A pleasing view of the valley of the yoye is obtained , beyond which the district offers little attraction, until Clermont is reached. Next stations Ally-sur-lSioye, Breteuil, St. Just; then Clermont (Hotel du Croissant), a town with 5144 inhab. , picturesquely situated on a green hill , which is crowned by an old chateau. 204 Route '25. BEALVAIS. From Brussels now employed as a prison. Beyond this point the scenery is very pleasing, and the country well peopled. Liancourt still possesses an old chateau founded by the Duchess of Liancourt, a member of the same family as Marshal Schom- burg, whose ancestral castle of Schonburg is situated near Ober- wesel on the Rhine. The handsome church -was erected in the 16th cent. Nicholas du Plessis d'Amerval, Seigneur de Liancourt, a man of weak intellect and deformed in person , was married by Henry IV. to Gabrielle d'Estrees , on condition that he should quit her immediately after the marriage ceremony, and never presume to enter his wife's residence. Near Creil (*Rail. Restaurant) the line approaches the Oise. An extensive manufactory of porcelain is situated on an island in the river. Branch-Line from Creil towards the N.W., to Beauvais, which possesses a remarkably fine Gothic cathedral, still uncompleted, but of very imposing dimensions. Height of nave 140 ft. Stat. St. Leu boasts of a church of the 12th cent. ; then Precy, Bovan, and Beaumont- sur- Oise with a fine Gothic tower. Isle- Adam is one of the most beautiful points on the line. Stat. Pontoise is commanded by the ancient church of St. Maclou. situated on a rocky eminence. Stations Herblay , Franconville , Ermont, Enghien-les-Bains, and Montmorency. The train now passes the Fort de la Briche , one of the ad- vanced defences of Paris, and reaches the Seine. It then crosses the Canal de St. Denis, halts at St. Denis, with its celebrated abbey-church and royal burial vaults, passes the Montmartre, and finally enters the Station du Nord at Paris , opposite to the ex- tensive Ilopital Lariboissiere. (Hotels at Paris : Cailleux and St. Quentin, both near the station; * Grand Hotel, Boulevard des Capucines; *Gr and Hotel du Louvre, Rue Rivoli; * Hotel du Bhin. Place Vendome 4; * Hotel Meurice, Rue de Rivoli 228, etc.. see Baedeker's Paris). B. By Mons, Hautmont, and St. Quentin. Express trains from Brussels to Paris always take this route (6i 2 — ''Sjt hrs., ordinary trains 10 — 11 hrs.). Express fares, 34 fr. GO c, 26 fr. : ordinary. 32 fr. 55, 24 fr. 40, 17 fr. 60 c. to Paris >T. QUENTIN. 25. Route. 205 The journey as far as Moiis has already been described \R. 25, A.). Stat. Cuesmes and Frameries , two populous villages with coal-mines in the neighbourhood. Stat. Query, then Feiynies, the tirst French station. At stat. Hautmont the line unites with That from Cologne to Paris, via Liege, Namur, Charleroi , Er- luelines . and Maubeuge. Landrecies is a small fortress on the Sambre. At Le Cateau Oimbresis a peace was concluded be- tween France and Spain in 1559. From Busigny a branch-line diverges tn Cambrai and Douai. The next important place is St. Quentin (* Hotel du Cygne), with 27,000 inhab., formerly a fortified town, situated between the Sonime and the Canal of St. Quentin, the Augusta Vircmanduorum of the Romans. It is now a manufacturing place , woollen and linen goods being the staple products. The tine Gothic cathedral , and the magnificent Gothic Hotel de Ville are well worthy of a visit. The Muse'e contains a collection of drawings in chalk by Latour. Here in 1557 Duke Emman. Philibert of Savoy defeated the French under Coligny and Montmorency. About 6 M. to the W. of the next Stat. Montescourt, the castle of Ham, celebrated for the political prisoners who have been confined within its walls , is situated. Tergnier is the station for La Fere, a small town situated on the Oise, about 3 M. to the E. of the railway. Chauny, with 7654 inhab. , is a place of some importance. Noyon , a snrall town, possessing a handsome church in the transition style , was the birthplace of the Reformer Calvin. The line follows the course of the Oise, through a cheerful, well cultivated district. Three small stations, then Compiegne (Cloche; France; Soleild'Or), a town with 10,364 inhab. , which has always been a favourite residence of the sovereigns of France. The present palace, erected during the reign of Louis XY, , was greatly extended by Napoleon I. Near the bridge over the Oise here , Joan of Arc fell into the hands of the English. Stat. Verberie, Pont St. Maience, Creil. Hence to Paris, see p. 204. — (J^arther particulars in Baedeker's Paris). Travellers from Brussels to Paris may select many other routes besides the above, so as to combine the journey with a visit to various other points 206 Route -25. ERQUELINES. of interest. On the whole, however, R. 25, A. will be found the most inter- esting. The two following routes may be preferred by some : 1. Brussels, Alost , Ghent (p. 51), Courtrai , Mouscron, Lille (pp. 25, 55), Douai, etc., see p. 200 et seq. 2. From Brussels to Xamur (see RR. 15, 18), from Namur to Charleroi, and thence to Hautmont, whence the Route 25, A. is followed. The portion of this route between Charleroi and Maubeuge leads through the valley of the Sambre , and passes the small town of Thuin , the picturesque ruins of the Abbey of Lobbes, then Erquelines (Belg. frontier), Jeumont (Fr. frontier), and Maubeuge, a fortified town on the Sambre, with 8700 inhab. HOLLAND. Plan of Tour and Travelling Expenses. The follo%ving tour is recommeuded to the traveller whose time is limited: Days From Antwerp to Rotterdam by steamboat 1 Ascent of the tower at Rotterdam. Erasmus Monument, walk through the city, and along the quays; Delft, Tomb of Prince William; Hague, walk through the streets 1 To Scheveningen at 6 or 7 a. m., bath, breakfast in bath-house. Drive to T Huh in 'T Bosch. Potters Bull and Rembrandt's Anatomy in the Museum. Curiosity Cabinet. Back to Sche- veningen to dinner at 4 p. m. ; evening on the beach, or in the theatre at the Hague 1 To Leyden, Siebold's Museum, Museum of Antiquities, Nat. Hist. Museum; in the evening to Haarlem 1 Church at Haarlem, picture-gallery in the Pavilion; in the evening to Zaandam i Morning at Zaandam, evening at Broek 1 To Amsterdam, harbour, Zoolog. Garden, paintings in the Mu- seum, Exchange, evening at the theatre i To Utrecht, walk through the town , and ascend tower of ca- thedral; thence by railway to Arnheim, Diisseldorf and Co- logne, or back to Rotterdam, or to Amsterdam .... 1 A hasty glance at the principal places in Holland may thus be obtained in a week or ten days, but the traveller whose time permits will prefer to devote a longer period to this really in- teresting country, and to avail himself of the stemboats on the canals and rivers, as well as on the open sea in fine weather. The following will be found an instructive and agreeable tour of a fortnight: Days From Antwerp to Rotterdam by steamboat i Rotterdam and Delft 1 The Hague and Scheveningen 2 208 Hotels. HOLLAND. Money. Days Leyden and Haarlem 1 Alkmaar; Helder and back by steamer; Zaandam .... 4 Broek and Amsterdayn 3 Ltrecht and back to Amsterdam 1 By steamer to Kampen, thence by railway (or by steamboat on the Yssel) to Arnheim . . . . • 1 Hotels in Holland are inferior to those of Belgium and Ger- many, as a rule; the charges are as high, whilst the cuisine and attendance are often defective. At the same time they are gen- erally scrupulously clean , and in some of their characteristics more nearly resemble the hotels of England than those of other parts of the continent. The usual charge for a bedroom is IV2 A-j breakfast 70 cents, table d'hote 21/2 A-, attendance 1/2 A- Luncheon is generally taken at 1, dinner at 4 or 5 o'clock. As a nation, the Dutch are extremely enlightened and well-educated , but the class with whom the traveller comes in contact will perhaps im- press him less favourably with regard to their manners and address. Fees at museums, churches etc. should not exceed 2 fl. per day. Hotel expenses amount to 7 — 8 fl. daily, travelling and other expenses to 4—5 fl., so that the total cost of a tour in Holland will be 14 — 15 fl. a day. The 'voyageur en gar(;on' may reduce his expenditure to one half of this sum by taking breakfast at the cafes , dining at unpretending restaurants , and avoiding the more expensive hotels. It may also be remarked that the steam- boats on the canals, the Rhine, Meuse, Yssel etc. afford a cheaper, and often pleasanter conveyance than the railways. Money, Passport, Customs -Dues. Silver- pieces of 27-2 (ryksdaalder) and 1 florin, 50 (duhbeltje) and 25 (kwartje) cents. The Dutch florin , gulden , or guilder (of the same value as the Rhenish florin, i. e. about 2 fr. 15 c., or 1 s. S^/2 d.) is divided into 100 cents, or 20 Stuivers (j^rononnceA stoiver). A stuiver (no longer current), or 5 cents, is therefore nearly equivalent to 1 d. — Gold pieces of 5 and 10 fl. , termed half and whole Willemsd'ors respectively, fluctuate in value. The average exchange for a Willemsd'or is 9 fl. 70 cents, for a Napoleon 9 fl. 30 cents, for a sovereign 11 fl. 70 cents. Passports are now dispensed with in Holland, but the tra- veller may occasionally find one of these documents useful , and Passports. HOLLAND. Language. 209 should be provided with one in case he contemplates a tour of considerable duration. — The Dutch Custom-house Officials are generally lenient in their examination of the luggage of Eng- lish travellers. It should, however, be borne in mind, that all new articles, especially if not wearing -apparel, are liable to pay duty according to their value, which must be declared beforehand. In order to prevent evasion of the duties by travellers, one of the regulations of the douane provides , that , if too low a value be named by the traveller, the officials are empowered to buy the article at the price named, with the addition of 10 per cent. New articles found in passengers" luggage, which have not been previously declared, are liable to confiscation. Language. A slight acquaintance with the Dutch language (pronunciation, see Introd. IV) will contribute greatly to the in- struction and enjoyment afforded by a tour in Holland. Those who have a knowledge of German, Swedish, or Danish will re- cognise the identity of the roots of the great majority of the words in these languages with those of the Dutch, to which Flemish is still more nearly allied. The following lines from two popular ballads will serve as a specimen: — Wien Ifeerlandsch bloed in de aadren Wij leven vrij, wij leven blij vloeit, Op yeerlands dierbren grond, Van vremde smetten vrij, Ontworsteld aan de slavernij, Wienshart voor land enKoning gloeit, Zijn wij door eendragt groot en vrij ; Verhef den zang als wij : Hier duldt de grond geen dwing- Hij stel met ons vereend van sin, landij Met onbeklemde borst, ' Waar vrijheid eeuwen stond. Het godgevallig feestlied in i (Brand.) Voor Vaterland en Vorst. , (Literal translation: "We live free, (Tollens.) we live blithe, on Netherlands' dear (Literal translation: "Let him, in ground; delivered from slavery, we whose veins Netherlandish blood , are through concord great and free; flows , free from every stain, and i here the land sutlers no tyranny, whose heart glows for country and where freedom hcis subsisted for cen- king, raise the song with us, united turies".) in sentiment, with unburdened breast, ! in the festal song , pleasing to God, \ for Fatherland, and Sovereign".) j The Dutch language is highly cultivated and developed, and totally free from that vague and arbitrary character which stamps the Flemish as little else than a mere patois. Like other languages of purely Teutonic origin, it has admitted a considerable number Baedekek's Belgium and Holland. 2nd Edit. 14 210 Railways. HOLLAND. Diligences. of words of the Romanic stock to the rights of citizenship; e. g. Kantoor (comptoir) , kwartier (quartier), katoen (coton) , kastrol (casserole), rekwest (requete), etc. Words of foreign origin, how- ever, have been imported into Dutch from motives of convenience or fashion, rather than absolute necessity, the language itself being remarkably rich and full of vital energy. Words of purely native growth are to be found in almost every branch of science and art , thus affording a striking proof of the enlightened and in- dustrious character of the nation. Railways. The remarks made with regard to those in Belgium apply to Holland also, except that the fares on the Dutch lines are considerably higher (comp. Introd. VII), Diligences are managed by private companies in Holland, and government only undertakes to control the letter and parcel de- partments. A Dutch post is about 4^/4 M., accomplished by these cumbrous, but not uncomfortable vehicles in 3/^ hr. , at a fare of V2 fl- The Dutch generally reckon distance by 'uren gaans', hours of going, or walking, one of which is about 3 M. Diligence and steamboat time-tables are contained in the 'Reisgids', which is published monthly, and is to be found at all the hotels. Carriages, roomy and comfortable, with two horses, may be hired at 15 fl. a day, including tolls and other expenses. If the journey terminates at a distance from the place where the vehicle was hired, the driver is entitled to charge for the days he requires in order to return home. The Roads in Holland are excellent. As stone is unknown in the greater part of the country, small and well hardened bricks ('klinkers') are used as a substitute, forming a smooth and hard surface which rivals that of the best macadamized roads. The original cost of the construction of these Dutch roads is estimated at 6000 fl. per English mile , a' considerable sum when the per- fectly level character of the country is considered; and high tolls are consequently levied. As, however, the heavy traffic is carried on almost exclusively by water, the roads are generally frequented by light vehicles only, and are maintained at a comparatively moderate cost. The Trekschnit {ch with a guttural sound, ui pron. oi), liter- ally 'draw-boat', was formerly a conveyance universally employed Dutch Peculiarities. HOLLAND. Canals. 211 in Holland, where canals are as common as roads in other coun- tries. All the principal towns, however, are now connected by railways, and the canal-boats still in use are often drawn by small screw- steamers instead of by horses (e. g. from Amsterdam to Haarlem, and from the Hague to Delft). Dutch Peculiarities. The picturesque ness of the national cos- tumes, which have retained their ground longer in Holland than in most other countries, is well known. They are now seen to the best advantage in the islands of Urk and Marken. Canals ('•Grachten') intersect most of the Dutch towns, as well as the country , in every direction , and are generally enlivened with numerous barges. The different quarters of the towns are connected by means (rf draw-bridges ( ' ophaalhrug' ) . The roads and streets skirting the canals are usually planted with trees, which contribute greatly to improve their appearance. The houses are generally lofty and narrow, and constructed of red brick and white cement. The beams occasionally seen projecting from the gables are used for drawing up goods to the lofts, which are used as magazines. The windows of the ground-floor are gen- erally of imposing dimensions , and polished with the scrupulous care which characterizes the Dutch of all classes, thus imparting to the houses a far more cheerful and prosperous appearance than is usual in large towns. At the cellar-doors in the side-streets, sign -boards with the words 'water en vuur te koop' (water and Are to sellj are frequently observed. At these humble establish- ments boiling-water and red-hot turf are sold to the poorer classes of the community for the preparation of their tea or coffee. Many of the houses and public buildings are considerably out of the perpendicular, a circumstance due to the soft and yielding nature of the ground on which they stand. The Chimes in the towers of the churches, or other public buildings, proclaim the quarters of every hour by playing a few bars of some popular or operatic air, a pleasing custom, of which however the effect is destroyed by too frequent repetition. The 'Gaper' (gaper), a painted Turk's or Moors head, is the customary sign of the druggists' shops. A large crown, decorated with box-leaves and gilding, suspended beneath the Dutch flag, is an indication that new herrings have arrived in the shop thus adorned. ^Tapperif (tap -room), or '/w'er verkoopt man sterke 14* 212 Country Residences. HOLLAND. drankevb (strong drinks are sold here), are the common signs for taverns. ''Dit huis is te huuren (this house is to hire, or let) is also frequently observed. Stoofjes, or foot-warmers, are universally employed by the female members of the community, and are seen in great numbers in the churches. The Village Feasts ('fcermis', literally 'church-mass', i. e. the anniversary of the foundation of the church) form a substitute for the Carnival of Roman Catholic countries, but the gaieties on these occasions too frequently degenerate into scenes of drunken revelry. The popular refreshments at these festivities are 'Hollands" and ^broedertjes% a kind of cake sold in the numerous booths erected for the purpose. In many Dutch towns the custom prevails of affixing bulletins to the doors of houses in which persons are sick, in order that their friends may be apprised of the state of their health without knocking or ringing. At Haarlem and Enkhuizen the birth of a child is announced by means of a small placard adorned with red silk and lace, and the friends of the family are entertained on these occasions with '■kandeeV (a species of mulled wine) and ^kaneel- koekjes' (cinnamon -cakes). Betrothals are celebrated by an ex- tensive consumption of ^bruidsuiker' ('bridal sugar', or sweet cakes) and ^bruidstranen' ('bridal tears', as the spiced wine is figuratively termed). The Dutch love of cleanliness sometimes amounts almost to a monomania. The scrubbing, washing, and polishing which most houses undergo once every week, externally as well as internally, are occasionally somewhat subversive of comfort. Spiders appear to be regarded with especial aversion, and vermin is fortunately as rare as cobwebs. Country Residences (buitenplaatsen, or buitens). Although na- ture has not bestowed her charms lavishly on Holland, the careful cultivation of the fields, gardens and plantations imparts a pictu- resque and prosperous appearance to the country. In the vicinity of the larger cities, especially on the Yecht between Utrecht and Amsterdam, also at Arnheim, Haarlem, etc., numerous tastefully constructed villas and country-seats are seen near the roads and canals, frequently enclosed by carefully kept gardens, parks, and pleasure-grounds. These paradises of the Dutch gentry and retired HOLLAND. Dykes. 213 merchants usually bear inscriptions characteristic of the sentiments of their occupants, and breathing a fpirit of repose and comfort. Thus: Lttst en Rust' (pleasure and repose), 'Wei Tevreden (well content), -Mijn Genoegen (my satisfaction), 'Mijn Lust en Leven' (my pleasure and life) , ' Vriendschap en Gezellschap' (friendship and sociability), '■Vreugde bij Vrede (joy with peace), 'Groot Genoeg' (large enough), 'Buiten Zorg' (without care). Many villas rejoice in much lengthier titles, which perhaps appear peculiarly appropriate to the proprietors , but cannot fail to excite a smile when read by strangers. Few of these country-houses are seen from the railway, and the traveller should therefore endeavour to pay a visit to some of the more attractive, which are mentioned in the following pages. Windmills fmolens) are a characteristic of almost every Dutch landscape, and often occupy the former ramparts and old bastions of the towns, which they appear to defend with their gigantic arms. Many of them are employed in grinding corn , sawing timber, cutting tobacco, manufacturing paper, etc., but one of their most important functions is to transfer the superfluous water from the low ground to the canals, by means of which it is discharged into the sea. This is usually accomplished by means of large water- wheels, the mechanism of which is far simpler and less expensive than that of pumps. The highly cultivated state of the country bears testimony to the efficiency of this system of drainage. Many of the windmills are of vast dimensions . the towers often re- sembling fortifications, and the sails exceeding 100 ft. in length. Dykes. Holland is probably the lowest country in the world, the greater part of it lying many feet below the sea-level. Upon the dykes , or embankments , therefore , by which the encroach- ments of the sea are prevented, the safety of the entire kingdom depends. In many places these vast and costly structures are equally necessary to prevent inundation by the rivers, the beds of which are gradually raised by alluvial deposits. The first care of the constructors of the dykes is to lay a secure and massive foundation , as a preliminary to which the ground is stamped or compressed in order to increase its solidity. The dykes themselves are composed of earth, sand, and mud, which when thoroughly consolidated are entirely impervious to water. The surface is then covered with twigs of willows, interwoven 214 Canals. HOLLAND. ■vNith elaborate care, the interstices of which are filled with clay, so as to bind the whole into a solid mass. The willows, which are extensively cultivated for the purpose, are renewed every three or four years. Many of the dykes, moreover, are planted with trees, the roots of which contribute materially to the consolidation of the structure. Others are provided with bulwarks of masonry, or protected by stakes against the violence of the waves , whilst the surface is covered with turf. The most gigantic of these embankments are those of the Helder, and of West-Cappel on the W. coast of the island of Makheren (p. 139). The annual cost of the maintenance of the latter alone amounts to 75,000 tl. annually , whilst the total ex- penditure throughout Holland for works of a similar description is estimated at 6 million florins. A corps of engineers , termed Be Waterstaat , is occupied exclusively in superintending these works. The constantly imminent nature of the danger will be thoroughly appreciated by the stranger, if he stand at the foot of one of the great dykes at high tide, and hear the breakers dashing against the other side of the barrier, at a height of 16 — 18 ft. above his head. Canals intersect the country in every direction. They serve a threefold purpose : (1) as a means of communication, with which almost every town and village in the kingdom is furnished; (2) as drains, by which superfluous water is carried off from the culti- vated land; (3) they form substitutes for hedges and walls, which are not more common enclosures for houses , fields, and gardens in other countries, than canals are in Holland. The Dutch canals differ from those in most other countries in generally being con- siderably broader , whilst the width is by no means invariable ; and locks are rare, as the level of the water is nearly always the same. Those, however, which are directly connected with the sea are closed at their extremities by massive flood-gates, to pre- vent the encroachment of the sea when itsjevel is higher than that of the water in the canal. The principal canals are about 60 ft. in width , and 6 ft. in depth. Not only the surface of the water , but the bed of the canal is frequently considerably above the level of the surrounding country. The great North Canal fp. 276), the broadest and deepest in Europe, is a marvellous monument of Dutch skill and HOLLAND. Polders. 215 perseverance in undertakings of this description. It will, however, be surpassed by the new canal now in course of construction, which will connect Amsterdam with the N. Sea. This magnificent channel of communication will be 17 M. in length, 190 — 320 ft. in breadth, and 23 ft. in depth. The cost is estimated at 18 million florins. The new Willems- Canal in N. Brabant is also worthy of mention. Polder is a term applied to a morass or lake, the bed of which has been reclaimed by draining. A great part of Holland and Flanders has been thus reclaimed, and rendered [not only habit- able, but extremely valuable for agricultural purposes. The first step in the process of drainage consists in enclosing the marsh to be reclaimed with a dyke, to prevent the admission of water from without. The water is then removed by means of water-wheels of peculiar construction, driven by windmills or steam-engines. A remarkable feature in these undertakings is. that the marsh or lake to be reclaimed is sometimes too deep to admit of the water at once being transferred to the main canals, and thus carried off. In these cases a system of dykes, one within the other, and each provided with a canal on its exterior, forms an ascending series of levels, from the lower of [which the water is gradually transferred to the higher, and thence finally into the principal channels. An excellent example of this is seen in the Schermer-Meer, where four different levels have been formed. These canals , although entirely separate from one another, are all provided with means of communication, by which in case of necessity the water from the higher can be discharged into the lower. The extraordinary fertility of the land thus reclaimed is ac- counted for to a great extent by the fact, that every superfluity of water can be removed by means of the water-wheels on the short- est notice , whilst in dry seasons an admirably efficient system of irrigation is constantly available. The aspect of these polders differs materially from that of the rest of the country. The speculators by whom they are drained map them out with mathematical precision into parcels, separated by canals and rows of trees at right angles , and furnished with houses of precisely uniform construction, all affording manifest indications of the artificial nature of the ground. The polders 2J6 Dunes. HOLLAND. often lie under water during the winter, but this by no means impairs the fertility of the soil, provided the water is not salt. Dunes, or downs, are the low sand-hills, 50—60 ft. in height^ which extend along the coast of Holland and Flanders, and have been thrown up by the action of the wind and waves. Those nearest the sea are of very unsubstantial consistency, and fre- quently altered in shape by the wind, affording little or no sus- tenance to vegetable life. Between the central downs (the highest and broadest) and those still farther inland, is situated an unin- terrupted tract of pasture and arable land, occupied by numerous cottages, and producing excellent potatoes. In many of the downs there are rabbit-burrows of vast extent, where excellent sport may often be enjoyed. In order to prevent the sand from the downs from covering the adjacent land, they are annually sown with the plants that will take root in such poor soil, especially tlie reed-grass (arundo arenarea). In course of time the roots spread and become en- twined in every direction, thus gradually consolidating the sand, which then becomes capable of supporting richer vegetation. A substratum of vegetable soil once formed, the arid and useless- saud-hill is converted into a smiling and fertile agricultural district^ in which even plantations of pines appear to thrive. History and Statistics 7. The earliest inhabitants of the district at the embouchures of the Rhine are said to have accompanied the Cimbri and Teutoni in their expedition against Italy. Several banished tribes of the Catti , who settled in the deserted island of Betuwe (p. 301), were conquered by the Romans, whose suprem- acy over this part of the country continued till the 4th cent.,, when the Salic Franks, the inhabitants of the banks of the Yssel, took possession of the Betuwe, and established themselves beweeii the Schelde, Meuse, and Lower Rhine. The district to the N.E. of the Salic Franks was occupied by the Frisians, to the E. of whom were the Lower Saxons. The supremacy of Charle- magne extended over the Netherlands. Cnder his successors the system of investing vassal-princes with the land gradually developed itself. The most powerful ot t '^ederland, zijne Provincieen en Kolonien, Land en Volk, beschreven door J. Kuyper', published in 1866, is recommended to those who posses* some acquaintance with the language as an excellent book of reference. HOLLAND. History. 217 these were the Bishops of Utrecht and the Counts of Holland. In V211 Count William II. ^vas elected King of Rome through the influence of Pope Innocent lY. In 1512 the Dutch provinces were enrolled as a part of the Burgundian section of the Germanic Empire. Under the Emp. Charles V. the whole of the Netherlands were united, and enjoyed a golden era of prosperity, in consequence of the powerful protection accorded by that monarch to commerce and navigation. Under his bigoted son and successor Philip II. of Spain , after the Duke of AKas arrival at Brussels (1568), that memorable , and at first apparently hopeless struggle com- menced, which lasted for 80 years, and terminated in the re- cognition of the Northern Netherlands as an independent state by the haughty Spaniards , and the establishment of the powerful Dutch Republic. The great founder of Dutch liberty was William of Nassau, •the Silent", Prince of Orange, a nobleman of German extraction. He fell in 1584 by the hand of an assassin at Delft (p. 228). On the day of his death his son Maurice was elected stadtholder by the states. Under his auspices the power and wealth of the Republic ra- pidly increased, and the E. Indian trading company was formed (1602); but the judicial murder of Oldenbarneveld (1619) is a foul blot on the memory of this prince , and the pernicious theological controversies of the Arminians and Gomarists (p. 232) were productive of many evil effects during this period. Maurice died in 1625, and was succeeded by his brother Frederick Henry (1625 — 47), under whom the unity of the Republic be- came more consolidated, and the prosperity of the States reached its culminating point. The Dutch commerce of that period was the most widely extended in the world. Their great navigators Houtman, Heeir.''lerk, Davis. Schouten, Lemaire, Hartog, Edels, Schapenham, Nuyi. Vianen, Caron, Tas- rridn, Le Vries, Van Campen, and Berkel, explored the most distant coasts in the world during this period, and the E. Indian factories, especially that of Batavia, which had been established in 1619, yielded a rich harvest. The Dutch school of painting, too, had now attained its culminating point ; Rembrandt flourished as an historical, a portrait, and a genre-painter; Van der Heist, histori- 218 History. HOLLAND. cal; Backhuysen and Van de Velde, sea-pieces : Steen, Dow, and Teniers, genre and humorous scenes: Wouvemxan, horses and battles; Potter, animal-pieces; Berchem, Waterloo, and Ruysdael, landscapes ; Huysum, flowers and fruit. The sciences were also highly cultivated during this prosperous epoch, as the well-known names of Grotius , Vossius , Heinsius, Gronovius, etc. abundantly testify. Frederick Henry died in 1647. a short time before the Peace of Westphalia , by which the independence of the United States of the Netherlands was formally recognised, and he was succeeded by his son William (d. 1650), then in his 21st year. On the death of the latter, who by the commission of several arbitrary acts had rendered himself unpopular, especially to the powerful aristocratic party, the States resolved not to elect a new stadtholder; and the reins of government were now entrusted to the Grand Pensionary Cats, the celebrated John de Witt, and other able and energetic senators. During this period the navigation acts were passed which gave rise to the war with England , and called into activity the talents of Van Tromp, De Witt, De Ruyter, and other naval he- roes, whose memory is still fondly cherished by the Dutch. Within the brief period of sixteen months as many as ten great naval battles were fought, in most of which the arms of the Republic were crowned with success. In 1667 De Ruyter even entered the estuary of the Thames with his fleet, endangering the safety of London itself, to the great consternation of the citizens. In consequence of the murder of the Grand Pensionary John de Witt (p. 232), and the invasion of Holland by the French under Louis XIV., Conde', and Turenne in the spring of 1672, the office of stadtholder was revived , and conferred by a decree in 1674 on the Princes of Orange as an hereditary right. The French war was terminated by the Peace of Nymegen in 1678, the stadtholder William III. (1672—1702) having been the means of asserting the liberties of Europe against the usurping encroachments of the ambitious 'Grand Monarque". This prince, the son-in-law of James II. of England, ascended the English throne in 1689, in consequence of which his native country became estranged from him; in conjunction with Austria and Spain he HOLLAND. History. 219 then engaged in a new war with France . which was terminated at length by the Peace of Ryswijck in 1697, William III. died in 1702 without issue, and was succeeded by his brave cousin John William Friso. Prince of Orange, who had commanded the army of the Republic during the war of the Spanish succession. He was accidentally drowned at Moerdijk in 1711. The events of the 18th cent, scarcely require special mention. The Republic had lost its prestige, and a revolution which broke out towards the close of the century terminated in the expulsion of the Stadtholder William V., who was reinstated in his of- fice by the Prussian army which had advanced almost unopposed to the gates of Amsterdam itself. The importance of the Republic had now dwindled to a mere shadow. In 1795 the French Republicans, led by Dutch exiles, took possession of the country, founded the "Batavian Re- public', and at the same time caused heavy taxes to be levied. Schimmelpennink, an able statesman, was created president of the new Republic , under the old title of Grand Pensionary, but in 1805 was compelled to yield up his authority to Louis Bonaparte, the brother of Napoleon I., the emperor having created him King of Holland. This semblance of independent existence came to an end in 1810, when Napoleon annexed Holland to France , declaring it to have been formed by the alluvial deposits of French rivers. At length in November, 1813, the French were expelled from Holland by the Dutch, aided by the Russians and Prussians: and the Prince of Orange , son of William V. , the last stadtholder, who died in exile in 1806. ascended the throne of Holland as an independent sovereign. By the Congress of Vienna, the southern, or Belgian provinces of the Netherlands , were united with the northern into a single Kingdom , and the Prince of Orange was created King of the Netherlands, under the title of William I. This bond of union between two races differing materially in language, religion, and character was severed by the Belgian Revolution of 1830 (comp. Introd. IX). Ten years later William I. abdicated in favour of his son William II., who died in 1849, and was succeeded by William HI., the present king (born in 1817, married Princess 220 statistics. HOLLAND. Sophia of Wirtemberg in 1839; their eldest son William, Prince of Orange, was born in 1840). The Kingdom of the Netherlands, which including the Province of Limburg is 13,000 sq. M. in area, has a population of 3,652,070 (Vsrd Rom. Cath. , 100,000 Jews), of whom about 2 millions are of Batavian , or Dutch, halt a million of Frisian, and nearly as many of Flemish origin. On an average, therefore, each square mile is occupied by 277 souls (maximum in N. Hol- land 560, minimum in the Province of Drenthe 93). The Nether- lands are divided into nine provinces: N, Brabant (capital Her- togent)Oscli) , (juelderland (Arnheim), N. Holland (Amsterdam), S. Holland (Hague), Zeeland (Middelburg) , Utrecht (Utrecht), Fiiesland (Leeuwarden), Over-\ssel (Zwolle), Groningen (Gronin- gen), Drenthe (Assen). Besides tliese provinces , the di^trict of Limburg (210,023 inhab., capital Mastricht), is governed by the king of Holland as grand-duke, and that of Luxembourg (202, 20S inhab., capital of the same name) by the same monarch as duke. Limburg now bears a share of the payment of interest (28 million florins) on the national debt, in the same proportion as the other provinces. The ducal house of Nassau, connected with the royal family of Holland by bonds of agnation , possesses a contingent interest in the succession to the Duchy of Luxembourg ; it for- merly was also interested in like manner in the succession of the Grand Duchy of Limburg, but has relinquished all right to make any claim to the latter, in consideration of a pecuniary compensation. Limburg may, therefore, be regarded as now forming an integral part of the Kingdom. The colours of the national flag are red, white, and blue, placed in horizontal lines (the French are placed vertically); the motto, 'Je maintiendrai'. The most important Dutch Colonies in the E. Indies are Java (capital Batavia), Sumatra, Borneo, Celebes; in the W. In- dies Surinam, St. Eustache, and Curasao ; to which must be added a number of factories on the coast of Guinea. The total area of these possessions amounts to 660,000 sq. M. , the population to 18 million souls. * The Merchant Fleet of Holland numbers upwards of 7000 vessels, 2500 of which trade with distant parts of the world. The Army consists of 1 Regiment of grenadiers and riflemen, HOLLAND. Statistics. 221 8 Regiments of infantry, 5 Regiments of dragoons, o Regiments of artillery, 1 Battalion of engineers. Prince Frederick is the ^groot- meester'. or commander of the artillery. Total number 61.000 men. An army of 30.000 men is moreover distributed throughout the colonies. The Royal Navy consists of 192 vessels of war of various descriptions , and is commanded by Prince Frederick , the uncle of the King, 2 admiral -lieutenants, 2 vice-admirals. 3 contre- admirals. 20 captains, 40 commanders, etc. Executive Povrer: a state-council, consisting of 12 mem- bers nominated by the King, and 8 responsible ministers. — Le- gislative Power: two Chambers , the members of which are elected by the States General. The first consists of 39 members, elected by the provinces for a period of 9 years: the second of 74 members, elected by the electors of the districts. 26. Rotterdam. London to Rotterdam via Harwich in 16— 20 hrs. (sea-passage 12— 14 hrs.)i fares 25, 20, 15 s.\ return-tickets one fare and a half. Tickets issued at Bishopsgate station, and at all the important stations of the Great Eastern Railway at the same fares. Passengers also booked from any staticm on the G.E.R. to Rotterdam at the above fares, on giving 24 hrs. notice to the station-master. The boats on this route are new and well fitted up. Service three times weekly. The Gen. Steam Nav. Co/s steamboats also ply between London and Rotterdam two or three times weekly, in 20—22 hrs. ; fares 20 or 15 s. The JJalavier, the property of the Netherlands Steamboat Co., plies once weekly (tares 25 or 15 s.}, and the Maasstrom and Fyenoord (15 «.) also once weekly lietwecn London and Rotterdam. The vessiJs ol these two companies run in connection with the Rhine- steamers of the Cologne and Diisseldorf, and the Netherlands companies re- spectively. Tickets at very moderate fares may be procured from London to any station on the Rhine as far as Mannheim. Hull to Rotterdam four times weekly, in 28 hrs.; fares 20 or 10 s. — Steamboats also ply from Grimsby, Newcastle, Leith, etc. to Rot- teidam, but the accommodation they afford is not always of the most com- fortable descriiitiun. Hotels. New Bath Hotel, on the Boompjes on the Maas, near the steamboal-piers, R. 1 fl. and upwards, L. 30 c, B. 60 c, D. 1>|2 fl., A. 40 c. ; *H6tel des Pays-Bas, in the Korte Hoogstraat, well fitted up, similar charges. — *H6tel Lucas (R. and L. l'|2 fl. , D. inch wine 2 fl.), and *H6tel Oelsctilaeger (R. and B. lija fl., A. 25 c), both in the Hoog- straat. Hotel Weimer and Hotel Verhaaren, both on the Spanish Quay, unpreienuing. Cafes etc. Zuid Hollandsch Koffijhuis, Korte Hoogstraat ; Cafe Franiais, opp. the latter; Nederlands Wapen (also a restaurant), in the same street; Caf^ de Hollande, near the railway. — Cafe Lutz, Zuidplaats, and Eisele, Hoogstraat, are restaurants where beer may be pro- cured. — Cafe Fl ascati is a '^caf^ chanianC in the Torentstraat, adjacent to the Groote Kerk (PI. 10); concerts and humorous entertainments every evening. Shops. Tlie best are in the Hoogstraat. Bookseller. O. Petri, Oppert 6. Cabs. Fur 1—4 pers. 60 c. per drive without luggage, per hour 11)4 fl. The station of ih.- Dutch railway is l'|4 M. from the Boompjes; that of the Rhenish line, on the Maas, is in the vicinity of the Boompjes. Om- nibus to the hotels 25 c. "™™- 4 ROTTERDAM. 26. Route. 223 Steamboats several linies daily to Xymegen (p. 304) in 8 — 10 hrs.. Arn- heim (p. 291) in 10, Briel in 2. Dordrecht (p. 307) in 1, Gouda (p. 289) in 2, Hertogenhosch in 8. Middellurg in 9. Moerdijk in 2i'2 (pp. 136, 141); to Ant- tcerp in 9—10 hrs. daily. Screw Steamers to Delft and the Hague every hour. Zoological Garden (PI. 35), adjacent to the Dutch railway-station, at the Delft Gate. Animals fed in summer at 7 p. m., from Sept. 1st at 2. 30 p. m, English Church Service performed by a resident chaplain. — English Preshuterian Church in the Haringvliet. — Scotch Presbyterian Church on the Schotsche Dijk. Principal Attractions: Church of St. Lawrence (p. 224), Erasmus (p. 224), Boymans Museum (p. 225), walk along the Boompjes (p. 224). Rotterdam, with 1'21.027 inhab. (Vsth Rom. Cath., 4000 Jews), the second commercial town in Holland, situated on the r. bank of the Maas, near its confluence with the Roite, about 14 M. from the ^\ Sea, occupies a site in the form of a nearly equilateral triangle, the base of which is the Maas, and the vertex the Delft Gate. The city is intersected by numerous canals (grachten or havensj , such as the Leuvehaven, Oude Haven, ]Sieuv;e Haven, Scheepmakershaven, Wijnhaven, Blaak, Haringvliet, etc. The first tliree of these, however, are more strictly speaking arms, or bays of the Maas , connected by the numerous canals which intersect the town. The ordinary rise of the tide in the Maas is 6 — 8 ft. Communication between the different quarters of the town is maintained by means of drawbridges (ophaalbrug). A huge dyke or embankment, running through the centre of the town, protects the Binnenstad, the quarter situated behind it, from inundation during high tide. The Hoogstraat, or high street, 1 2 M. in length, is situated on this embankment, whilst the Bui- tenstad, the most modern and attractive part of the town, lies in the space between the Hoogstraat and the Maas. Owing to changes in the course of the stream, and the deposit of alluvial soil, this new quarter of the town has gradually extended, and the hand- some houses of the Willemtikade were erected in 1850 on ground thus reclaimed from the river. The numerous vessels lying in the canals and harbours, which are deep enough to accommodate those of heavy tonnage, and ad- mit of their discharging their cargoes in the very heart of the city, always present a busy and picturesque scene. The names of many of the vessels (Samarang, Sumatra, Borneo, Java, etc.) in- dicate that they are engaged in the Indian trade. The voyage from 224 Route -26. ROTTERDAM. Doompjes. Holland to the E. Indian colonies and back generally occupies about 9 months, and the most common cargoes consist of coffee, sugar, tobacco, rice, and spices. A number of vessels are also moored opposite to the *Boompje8, whence upwards of 100 steam- boats start for the neighbouring Dutch towns, the Rhine, Eng- land, France, Russia, and the Mediterranean. This handsome quay, which derives its appellation from the trees with which it is planted, extends for a distance of l'/4 M. along the bank of the Maas, and will not fail to strike the stranger as far more attrac- tive and cheerful than similar localities in most other seaport- towns. Notwithstanding its considerable size and important traffic, Rotterdam is on the whole one of the cleanest, least smoky, and most pleasing of all commercial towns. The average number of vessels which enter the port is 2500. The great market-place, a considerable part ot which 's con- structed on vaulting over a canal, is adorned with the insignifi- cant statue in bronze of the illustrious Erasmus of Rotterdam (PI. 4), who was born at Rotterdam, and died at Bale in 1536. The monument , which bears long Dutch and Latin inscriptions, was erected by the citizens of Rotterdam in 1662. The house in which he was born, in the Wijde Kerkstraat, is adorned with a small statue, and bears the inscription : '^Haec est parva domus. magnus qua natus Erasmus.' The * Church of St. Lawrence (Groote Kerk, PI. 10), recently restored, is a brick structure of 1472 in the later Gothic style. The interior is of fine proportions , but will not bear comparison with the magnificent Gothic edifices of Belgium and Germany. The chief objects of interest are the marble monuments of vice- admiral Witte Corneliszoon de Witt (d. 1658), vice-admiral Cor- tenaer (d. 1665), contre-admiral Van Brakel (d, 1690), and other Dutch naval heroes, bearing long Latin or old Dutch inscriptions. The armorial bearings in this, as in almost all the other churches in Holland, were destroyed by the French republicans. The brazen screen which separates the choir from the nave is finely executed. The large Organ is considered by some to rival the celebrated in- strument at Haarlem. It possesses three key-boards, 72 stops and 4762 pipes, the largest of which is 32 ft. long, and 17 in. in diameter. The organist may be engaged to play for an hour, and to show the internal mechanism, for a fee of 10 fl. Boymans Museum. ROTT£RD,\M. 26. Route. 225 The Tower, 288 ft. in height, consisting of three broad and tapering stories, has heen built into the facade of the church. It was formerly surmounted by a wooden spire, removed in 1645, and replaced by a flat roof. Any degree of attractiveness it may once have possessed was totally destroyed by the construction in 1650 of a massive support, extending across the entire fa(;ade. The summit affords a characteristic view of Dutch scenery. Canals, country-houses, windmills, perfectly straight avenues, and per- fectly flat green pastures and arable land are the principal features of the environs, and it sometimes appears doubtful whether land or water is the predominating element. The towers of Briel, Schiedam, Delft;, the Hague, Leyden, Gouda, and Dordrecht are all visible in clear weather. The tower is ascended by a con- venient flight of 3'20 stone steps. The sacristan, who lives on the S. side of the church, receives a fee of 10 c. from each person for showing the church, and 60 c. from each visitor to the towe; . The Zuiderkerk (PI. 18), with its lofty Gothic tower, situated between the Wijn Haven and Scheepmakers Haven, was erected in 1849. The Exchange (PI. 1), built of sandstone in 1772, contains a spacious court, flanked by colonnades, and covered with glass. The exterior is of very simple construction. Business -hour 1 o'clock. The upper rooms contain a good collection of physical instruments (the property of the Bataafsch Genootschap, or Bata- vian Society). The tower contains a set of chimes. The following five buildings are the only others worthy of mention: the Schieland Palace ( Gemeenlandshuis van Schielavd, PI. 5), in the Korte Hoogstraat, the seat of the authorities who superintend the embankments (the Hoogheemraadschaf van Schie- land) ; the new Stadhuis, or town-hall (PI. 27), with a Corinthian colonnade towards the Hoogstraat, and principal facade towards the Botersloot; the modern Palace of Justice (PI. 22), formerly a public rifle-gallery; the Hospital, ox Gasthuis (F\. 7). in the Kool- singel, worthy of a visit on account of the excellence of its organ- ir.tion; the Yacht Club (PI. 34). The Boymans Museum (PI. 5), a collection of about 450 pictures, most of them by Dutch masters, which became the prop- erty of the town in 1857, although inferior to the galleries of the Hague and Amsterdam, is well worthy of a visit. The building Baedeker's Belgium and Holland. 2nd Edit. 15 226 Route -26. ROTTERDAM. was burned down in 1864, but most of the pictures were saved, and the gallery has been re-erected. Entrance Room, beginning on the r. : 147. Nason, Portrait of a man in rich costume; 230. Shnon de Vos, Portrait; *175, '176. Pynaker , Two large landscapes; 231. De Vos, Portrait. I. Room, r. of the staircase: i. 133. Molenaer, Scene of merriment; under it, 28. Breughel Uhe OlcT, Dutch Village; 146. Mytens , Portrait of the Grand Pensionary Jac. Cats and his niece; 92. 0. Jlonthorst, Soldier lighting his pipe; 27. Breughel, Dutch vil- lage; 245. Willaerts, Embouchure of the Maas at Briel, with vessels of war and numerous figures ; by the door, '47. Cuyp, Head of an ox ; 129. Miere- velt , Prince Maurice of Nassau ; 134. Molenaer , Three peasants at a tire ; 255. View of Rotterdam in the 17th cent. ; 78. Hanneman, Portrait of John de Witt; 93. Honthorst, Head of an old man. — II. Room: r. *53. Dilrer, Portrait of Erasmus; 200. Schooreel, Portrait of a boy; 256. Erasmus in his study; =84. Van der Heist, Portrait of Daniel Bernard ; 229. C. de Vos, Time crowning the husbandman with a rich harvest ; higher up , 203. Snuders, Wild boar hunt; "269. Salvator Bosa, Monk praying; •270. Salv. Bosa, Wo- man defending herself against a Satyr; '128. Mierevelt, Portrait; 21. Bol, Lady with red dress; '183. Bubens, Portrait; 217. Van de Velde, Equestrian. — III. Room: r. *45. A. Cuyp, Dead game; 43, 44. Cnyp, Fruit; 41. Cvyp, Repast of shell-fish; above it, 37. J. G. Cuyp, Three children in rich cos- tume of the 17th cent.; *42. A. Cuyp, Cock and hen; '251. Wouverman, Rider on a grey horse; 56. Eeckhout, Portrait of a child; 166. Ostade, Man reading; 82. Van der Heist, Gentleman and lady richly attired; 185. Buys- dael. Landscape; 186. Buysdael, Fish-market at Amsterdam. — IV. Room (beyond the staircase): r. 11. Berckheyden, The old exchange at Amsterdam ; 118, 119. Maas, Portraits of the ambassador l^ieuwport and his wife; *88. Hondekoeter , Poultry; Backhuysen, Stormy sea; -89. Hondekoeter , Dead fowls: 167. Ostade, Village tavern; '250. Wouverman, Soldiers engaged in plundering; 83. Van der Heist, Clergyman; -206. Steen^ St. Nicholas; '4. Backhuysen, Frigate in a storm; *207. Steen, Operation on a 'malade ima- ginaire" ; 9. Beerstraten, Old town-hall of Amsterdam ; '239. Weenix, Dead swan; 107. Koning, Old man weighing gold. — V. Room: r. S. Backhuysen, Fruit and flowers ; 18. Bloemers , Flowers ; portrait of Hogendorp (see be- low). — VI. Room (chiefly modern masters): r. =^6. Backhuysen, Dutch landscape; 64. Eysden, Portrait of the burgomaster HolTmann ; 204. Spoel, Reception of Prince William IV. on his arrival from England; 156. Nuijen, River view by sunset; 125. Meijer, Sea-piece; 191, 192. Ary Scheffer, Count ofWirtemberg and his son after the Battle of Reutlingen; "98. Kate, Coun- cil of war in the 17th cent.; 13. C. Koekkoek, Forest scene; Molijn, The ar- tist among gipsies; *105. H. Koekkoek, Sea-piece, with threatening storm. At the back of the Museum stands the statue of Gysbert Karel van Hogendorp (b. 1762, d. 1834), the 'promoter of free trade", and the 'founder of the laws affecting the tenure of land in the Netherlands', as the inscription records. The statue was executed by Geefs, the eminent Belgian sculptor. To the W. of the Nieuwe Werk (PI. A, 6) is the Park, which SCHIEDAM. -27. Route. 227 afifords a pleasant promenade, adorned with a * Statue in white marble of Tollens (b. 1778, d. 1856), the most popular Dutch poet, designed by Stracke'e. The Botanical Garden (PI. 6), to the 1. of the Delft Gate, contains some fine cacti, and rare exotics from the E. and W. Indies (fee '25—50 c). 27. From Rotterdam to the Hague. Railway ('IfoUandsche Tzeren Spooriceg") in s'^hr. ; fares 1 fl. 20, 1 fl., 60 c. — Passengers are particularly cautioned against leaning out at the windows , as the carriages pass very close to the railings of the numerous bridges. Flat pastures, numerous windmills, and straight canals, stagnant water covered with green weeds, and occasionally a few plantations and thriving farm-houses are the principal features of the country. On the 1., immediately after the station is quitted, is Del f shaven on the Maas: on the r. the village of Overschie. the birthplace of the naval hero Piet Hein (d. 1629); in 1870 a statue was erected to his memory. Schiedam (Doelen), a town on the Schie, with 16,559 inhab., is celebrated for its 'Hollands" and 'Geneva' (so called from the Jenever. or juniper-berry with which it is flavoured, and not from the town of that name), of which there are no fewer than 221 distilleries. Upwards of 30,000 pigs are annually fattened on the refuse of the grain employed in the process. Rising beyond Schiedam are seen the towers of Vlaardingen, the prin- cipal Dutch depot of the 'great fishery', as the herring-fishery is called by the natives, in contradistinction to the whale-fishery. This small town pos- sesses upwards of 70 fishing-smacks, some of them of considerable size. As much as TOO fl. is frequently paid for the first ton of herrings, but the price generally soon falls to 25 fl. Delft rHotel Casino), with 22,490 inhab. (1/3 Kom. Cath.), situated on the Schie, is connected by means of that river with Delfshaven. and thus with the sea. The town was totally destroyed by fire in 1536, with the exception of five houses, and in 1654 suffered serious damage in consequence of the blowing up of a powder-magazine. The pottery and porcelain of Delft were once celebrated throughout Holland, and the name is even familiar to English ears, but most of the manufactories have ceased to exist, and the town is now a dull place, destitute of all commercial im- portance. The venerable and dignified aspect of the place, how- 15* 228 Route 'J7. DELFT. From Rotterdam ever . presents a not nnpleasing scene of repose to the traveller who has just quitted the busy streets of Rotterdam. The canal i» generally clear, and undisturbed by traffic, and some of the streets are shaded with fine old lime-trees. Delft has attained a melancholy celebrity in the annals ol Holland as the scene of the assassination of William of Orange, the founder of Dutch liberty (b. in loSS at Dillenburg in Ger- many, d. 1584). The Prinsenhof, or palace, where the murder was committed, situated in the street leading from the Kotterdam to the Hague Gate, nearly opposite to the old church, is now a barrack (fee to sergeant who shows the building 25 — 50 c). The visitor is conducted across the court, and through a door an the T. to the spot where the tragedy was enacted. The marks left by the fatal bullet are still pointed out. Five weeks after this event the States-General assembled here, and appointed Prince Maurice, the sou of their illustrious and ill-fated liberator, their stadtholder in the place of his father, although then in his 18th year only. The Nieuwe Eerk in the great market-place, erected in 1381. contains a magnificent * Monument (executed in marble by De Ktyser and Quellin in 1621) to the memory of Prince William. His effigy in marble lies upon a saicophagus beneath a canopy, also in marble, supported by 14 columns, and adorned with small obelisks. On one of the four columns, Liberty is represented with a sceptre and hat as her insignia ; on a second, Justice with her scales, beside which William's favourite motto, '■Saevis tranquillus in undis\ is inscribed; on the third column Prudence, with a twig of thorn in her hand ; on the fourth , Religion , with the Bible in one hand, and a miniature church in the other, whilst her foot rests on a corner-stone, which is emblematical of Christ. At the head of the statue is placed a second statue in bronze, representing the prince in full military accoutrement. At the feet of the recumbent figure is a dog, in reminiscence of the prince's favourite dog which was the means of saving his life in 1572, when he was attacked in the night by two Spanish assassins in his camp at Malines. The goddess of Victory, with outspread wings, 6 ft. in height , a figure in bronze resting on the ground on the point of the left foot only, is usually regarded as the most remarkable part of the monument. The inscription records that the prince was murdered by an assassin hired by Philip II. of to the Hague. DELFT. 27. Route. 229 Spain. Beneath the same stone his wife and his son Prince Mau- rice (b. 1567. d. 1625) are also interred. The church afterwards became the burial-place of all the princes of the House of Orange. King William I. (d. 1843), his queen (d. 1837), who was a sister ■of Fred. William III. of Prussia, and their son William II. (d. 1849) were the last members of the family interred in the vaults. — The church also contains a simple monument to Hugo Grotius, who was a native of Delft (d. at Rostock in 1645). — One of the pillars bears an inscription to the memory of two officers who fell at the siege of Antwerp in 1832. The handsome Town Hall fStadhuis), on the W. side of the market-place, erected in 1618, contains a collection of pictures and historical curiosities. The Oude Kerk, with a somewhat leaning tower, erected in the 11th cent., contains the monument of admiral Van Tromp (d. 1653), the victor in 32 naval battles, the last of which, fought against the English, and the occasion of his death, is represented on the monument. After defeating the English fleet under Blake near the 'Dunes", he caused a broom to be hoisted to his mast- head, to signify that he had swept the channel clear of his ene- mies. Piet Hein , the admiral of the Indian Company, who in 1628 captured the Spanish 'silver fleet', with its precious freight valued at 12 miUion florins, also has a monument in this church. — The naturalist Leeuwenhoek (d. 1723) is interred here, and a monument -with medallion figure was erected to him by his daughter. The Polytechnic School is attended by about 300 students. The once celebrated Model Chamber of the dockyard of Amster- dam, comprising models of ships, mills, machinery, etc., has been transferred hither. At the Rotterdam Gate, near the landing-place of the canal- l?oats from Rotterdam, rises a large and gloomy building, adorned with the arms of the old Dutch Republic. It was originally a ware- house of the E. India Company , but was subsequently converted into an Arsenal. The entire equipment of the artillery, with the exception of the guns cast at the Hague, is manufactured in this establishment, which is connected with an artillery-laboratory and a powder-magazine outside the town. Delft is 4>/'2 M. distant from the Hague; by railway in V* ^^* 230 lioute '28. THE HAGUE. The traveller, however, who has sufficient leisure, should by all means avail himself, for this part of the journey at least, of the 'Trekschuif, or canal-boat, a conveyance peculiar to Holland. The trip (1 hr.) will be found very agreeable in fine weather, and the scenery pleasing , although monotonous. Numerous country-resi- dences, the communication between which is maintained by means of the canal, and a succession of attractive and well-kept gardens are passed, whilst the passenger-traffic itself affords an interesting and busy scene. On the 1. appears the spire of Rijswijk, where the celebrated peace between England, France, Holland, Germany and Spain was concluded in 1697. The palace of the Prince of Orange , where the treaty was signed , no longer exists, but it& site is indicated by an obelisk erected in 1792 by the stadtliolder William V. The poet Tollens is interred in the churchyard of Rijswijk. 28. The Hague. ^ Dutch 'eer: Bavarian Bierhaus, Wagenstraat ; *Erlangen, Wagenstraat 4, of which the specialite is the beer from the German town of that name. Confectioner: Moenchen, Lange Houtstraat. 'De Boers' Grand Bazar Royal, in the Zeestraat (prolongation of the >.'oord-Einde), to the 1. on the way to Scheveningen , is a most attractive emporium of curiosities and fancj-articles of every description. Theatre. Mond. , Thursd., and Sat. French, Tuesd., and Frid. Dutcli^ the latter in winter only. Stalles of the parterre, reserved, 3 fl. ; front seats in boxes 21J2 fl. ; pit 1 fl. 20 c, etc. Performances commence at 7 p. m. Omnibus per drive 20 c. without luggage. To Scheveningen, see p. 240. Carriages. Vigilante, or cab (near the rail, station, Buitenhof, and Plein), from the station to the town 60 c. : to Scheveningen l'|2 fl. for 1—4 pers., there and back 2 fl. ; to the bath-house at Scheveningen 2, there and back THE UAGLE. '28. Route. 231 Qij-i fl. — Horse Railicay and Canal Boat to Scheveningeu , see p. 240. — Carriages may be hired of Starrenburg, 'Noordeinde (PI. D, 2. 3) etc. One- horse carr. to Scheveningen by the new road , and back by the old , in- cluding the drive to the Huis in 't Bosch* (p. 239), 3 fl. , an excursion o 3—4 hrs. If the traveller, therefore, start at 6 a. m., he will have time to enjoy a bath at Scheveningen, visit the fish-auction (p. 238), inspect the Huis in 't Bosch on the way back, and reach the Museum at the Hague between 10 and 11 o'clock. English Church, chaplain resident throughout the year. Principal Attractions: MusCTim (p. 233), statues (p. 237), excur- sion to Scheveningen. The Museum is 1 M. distant from the railway-sta- tion. At the S.E. Gate, near the station, is the extensive Iron Foundnj of Enthoven, near which the models of the statues uf Rembrandt (p. 248) and Coster (p. 251) are placed. The Hague (92,021 inhab. , 1/3 ^om. Cath.) was originally a hunting-seat of the Counts of Holland, whence its name "*S Graven Huge (i. e 'the count's enclosure', from the same root as the Engl, hedge"). It has for many centuries been the favourite residence of the Dutch princes, but continued to be a mere market-borough until Louis Bonaparte, when king of Holland, accorded to it the privileges of a town. Its present aristocratic and prosperous appearance is due solely to the presence of the court and the numerous nobles and diplomatists who reside here, and not to the internal resources of the town itself. No town in Holland possesses so many broad and handsome streets, lofty and substantial houses, and spacious and imposing squares as the Hague. The N.E. quarter of the town is the finest part, where on the Vijverberg^ the Kneuterdijk, the Voorhout, and the isoordeinde a series of magnificent palaces is situated. The Prinsengracht , on the S. side of the town, is also a handsome street which merits a visit. The vicinity of the Vijver (i. e. fish-pond), a sheet of water nearly in the centre of the town, enlivened by an island and a number of swans, is the most fashionable locality. The Buitenhof, the large Place on the S. side of the Yijver. is adorned with a * Statue of WUliam II. (d. 1849) (PI. 23), in bronze ; the four figures at the sides are emblematical of princely rank, history, prosperity, and military glory. The names of the victorious battles at which the king was present are inscribed on the pedestal (Bajadoz, Vittoria, Salamanca, Quatre-Bras, Wa- terloo, Hasselt, Leuwen). 232 Route 28. THE HA.GUE. Binnenhof. On the N. side of the Vijver is situated the Binnenhof (PI. 21), an irregular pile of buildings, some of them of medii-cval origin, formerly surrounded with a moat. The square formed by these buildings is entered by means of drawbridges. Several of the municipal and ministerial offices are situated here. The most con- spicuous building, opposite to the visitor approaching from the Buitenhof, contains a spacious hall with a fine Gothic roof. The wings of the edifice contain the halls where the two Chambers of the States-General hold their sessions. During the glorious period of the Republic, the Buitenhof and Binnenhof were witnesses of two dark tragedies which sully the pages of its history. The influence of John van Oldenbameveld. the Grand Pensionary, or prime minister, of Holland, the chief founder of the Republic, and the highest official after the stadt- holder, had become distasteful to Prince Maurice of Orange, who made the then prevailing theological controversies between the Arminians and Gomarists a pretext for ruining that noble-minded statesman. The stadtholder accordingly, during a meeting of the States-General , caused Oldenbarnevald to be arrested , together •with his learned friends Grotius and Hogerbeets^ the Pensionaries of Rotterdam and Leyden. The two latter were conducted to the castle of Loevenstein (p. 306), whilst the Grand Pensionary him- self, who had declared himself in favour of the Arminian doctrines was condemned to death, 'for having conspired to dismember the States of the Netherlands , and greatly troubled God's Church", On May 24th, 1619, the unfortunate minister, then in his 72nd year, was executed on a scaffold erected in the Binnenhof, after having written a touching vindication of his innocence to his fa- mily , and solemnly declared on the scaffold that 'he had ever acted from sincerely pious and patriotic motives'. The Gevangepoort , a tower with a gateway leading from the Buitenhof to the Plaats, is the locality where the second of these tragedies was enacted. In 1671 Cornelius de Witt, who was falsely accused of a conspiracy against the life of the stadtholder Wil- liam in., was imprisoned here. His brother John de Witt, Grand Pensionary and president of the Republic, having received intelli- gence that his brother's safety was endangered, hastened to the tower to afford him protection. The enfuriated populace , who Museum. THE HAGUE. 28. Route. 233 had been stirred up by the enemies of the two brothers, and in- duced to believe in their guilt, availed themselves of this oppor- tunity, and, having forced their way into the prison, seized the persons of their ill-fated victims, whom they literally tore to pieces with savage cruelty. The modest dwelling of the Grand Pensionary de Witt is in the Kneuterdijk, opposite the Hoogenieuwstraat, within a few paces of the scene of this deed of violence. The house of Oldenbarneveld now forms part of the offices of the minister of finance. The * Museum (PI. 12), established in an isolated building erected by Prince Maurice of Nassau (d. 1663), contains a col- lection of curiosities on the lower, and a picture-gallery on the upper floor. The latter is open to the public daily from 9 to 3 o'clock, except on Saturdays, when (10 — 12 a. m.) visitors may apply to the concierge for tickets to admit them on Sunday. No fees. About two-thirds of the pictures (300 in all) belong to yorth. the Dutch school , which attained its highest consum- mation in the 17th cent. (catalogue 50 c). Vestibule (beginning on the 1.): 134. Schalken, Lady at her toilet , lighted by a wax-candle; 32. Van Dyck, The Huygens family; 61. Hondekoeter , Birds, among them a raven attacked by the others ; * 74. Jor~ daens, Gardener and girl offering fruit. — r. 139. Snyders , Stag - hunt , land- scape by Rubens; under it, 174. Wouverman, A camp; '^^"'^- 180. Wouverman, Riders and carriage drawn by six grey horses ; 25. J. Breughel, Paradise, figures by Rubens; 170. Weenix , Dead game; 138. Schalken, William ni., Prince of Orange and King of England; 268. Prince Maurice , 269. Prince William H. . both by unknown masters ; 15, 16. F. Bol, Admiral de Ruyter and his son. The other Drawings in Chalk. III. Director's Room. I, IV, 41. Vestibule. V, 234 Route 28. TIJE HAGUE. Museum. portraits of members of the House of Orange are destitute of artistic merit. I. Saloon (beginning on the 1.): 120. Rembrandt, Portrait of a young man; 104. Netscher , Small portrait; 163. Van de Velde, Beach at Scheveningen; 140. Snyders, Kitchen with vegetables and game, figure by Rubens j 31. G. Dow, Woman with a lamp; jl42. J. Steen, The painter and his family; *41. Everdingen, Portraits of the family of the Grand Pensionary Steyn, in a picture where Diogenes is represented 'seeking for a man' in the market-place at Haarlem; lOG. A. von Ostade , Interior of a rustic tavern; 17. Both, Large Ital. landscape; 153. Tenters, Alchimist in his laboratory. — 266, 267. William I. , Prince of Orange, before and after death, by unknown masters; *146. J. Steen, Poultry-yard; 86. Metsu, Lady writing, a man behind her, and a mandoline-player in the background; *181. Wouver- man. Landscape, known as the 'hay-waggon'; *141. P. Pottery Landscape with cows; **116. Rembrandt, School of Anatomy, formerly in the Anatom. School at Amsterdam, purchased by King William I. for 32,000 fl, — The picture represents Professor Tulp , surrounded by his pupils, about to dissect a corpse , and is one of the great master's finest works, altliough the subject is unpleasing. 39. A. Moro, Man sitting at a table; 93. W. Mieris, Grocer's shop; 171. Van der W'erff, Flight to Egypt; 145. i7. Steen, Dentist. II. Saloon: *30. Dow, Lady with a child in the cradle, and attendant, a carefully executed picture; 144. Steen, Physician feeling a girl's pulse; 12. Berchem, Cavalry -fight in a defile; 35. Van Dyck, Portrait of the artist Quint Simons; 155. Terburg, Portrait of the artist in his costume as burgomaster ; k52. De jfiTecm, Flowers and fruit; 121. Rembrandt, 0\d m&n ; 131. Ruys- dael , Sea-shore; *119. Rembrandt, An officer; *154 Terburg^ An officer holding a letter which appears to liave been delivered to him by a trumpeter; 173. Wouverman, Battle; *123., *124. Rubens, Catharine Brant and Helena Fourment, the master's first and second wife, both admirably executed; 130. Ruysdael, Water- fall; 147. Steen, Physician at the bedside of a patient; 33, 34. Van Dyck, Portraits, known as those of the Duke and Duchess of Buckingham, but more probably those of members [of a Dutch family, as the armorial bearings in the corner appear to indicate ; Museum. THE HAGUE. 28. Route. 235 90. F. Mieris , Portrait of the painter and his wife; 118. Rem- brandt, Susanna bathing; *92. Mieris^ Boy blowing soap-bubbles ; **11T. Rembrandt, Presentation in the Temple, Simeon holds the Infant Jesus, whom the high priest blesses. This is perhaps the most perfect of the master's works ; the effects of light and shade are admirable. III. Saloon (beyond the staircase): Q2. Hondekoeter, Menagerie of William HI. at the palace of Loo (p. 311). — 169. Weenix, Swan, stag, and dead game in a landscape; 125. Rubens, Portrait of his father- confessor: *143. J. Steen, 'Representation of human life" (as this picture is termed in the catalogue). — 265. Wil- liam I. of Orange, master unknown. — **112. Paul Potter's far-famed Bull, the gem of the whole collection, remarkable as one of the few animal -pieces which the master painted on so large a scale. The picture was carried off to Paris by the French, and was regarded as fourth in point of value among all the pic- tures in the Louvre. The three which ranked before it were Raphael's Transfiguration, Domenichino's Communion of St. Jerome, and Titian's Martyrdom of St. Peter. This celebrated picture was purchased in 1749 for 630 fl., but before it was restored by the French the Dutch government offered 50,000 fl. to Napoleon for its restoration. It is alleged that documents have been disco- vered , proving that the picture was painted by the master of Potter, and not by that artist himself. 6. Backhuysen, Sea-piece ; 5. Backhuysen , Return of William III. of England at Maasluis (in 1691); above it, 13. Bloemart , Banquet of the gods; 152. Tenters, Kitchen. (The adjoining apartment contains a number of drawings in chalk of the 18th century.) lY. Saloon: 209. Murilto , Spanish herdsman; 65. Memling (or Rogier van der Weyden) , Descent from the Cross ; above it, 229. Guido Rent, Death of Abel ; 210. Velasquez, Charles Bal- thasar, son of Philip lY. of Spain; *208. Murillo, Yirgin and Child. Y. Saloon: 195. Holbein, Portrait of Rob. Chesemann, hold- ing a falcon; 187. Durer, Portrait; 194. Holbein, Portrait of Sir Thomas More (?); 196. Holbein, Portrait of Jane Seymour, Queen of Henry YIII. ; 238, 230. Salvator Rosa, Prometheus chained to the rock , and Sysiphus rolling the stone. — 247. Tintoretto, Portrait of a magistrate; 220. Cignani, Adam and Eve. — 236 Route '26. THE HAGUE. Cabwet of Curiosities. Diirer {jf), Elisabeth, daughter of Emp. Ferdinand I. Most of the other pictures are copies from celebrated Italian masters. The ground -floor of the same building contains the * Cabinet of Curiosities , accessible to the public at the same time as the Picture Gallery (admission free). Those who desire to examine the collection very minutely should purchase a catalogue (50 c.) ; a few only of the 750 objects which it comprises can be here enumerated. Several rooms are devoted to curiosities from China and Japan, others to objects of interest from the Dutch colonies and other parts of the world. The collection of historical relics begins with the celebrated wooden goblet of the Gueux, or first revolutionary party in the Netherlands, and comprises the remnants of the gallant Tan Speyk's gunboat (see p. 137). The visitor is recommended to visit the room to the 1. first, and finish with the historical relics in the first room on the r. A minute inspection of the Chinese and Japanese curiosities will be found very fatiguing; the pictures and curiosities should therefore, if possible, be visited on different days. I. Room (1.): Cabinet with Chinese costumes. In the corner: Mandarin 'en petit costume*. Stained glass, representing the rice and tea harvest; views of Canton, review of troops, etc.; Chinese court of judicature and execution of the sentence (in a glass-case) ; portrait of the emperor, with moveable head. In a glass-cabinet in the centre, Chinese fruits in wax. II. Room: Japanese objects. Cabinet with Japanese tools, apparatus of a copper-mine ; figures of soldiers ; musical instru- ments and weapons; armour of a general; caricatures etc. from Japan ; Japanese costumes, masks. In the centre : Saloon of the Dairi, the spiritual emperor of Japan, with different figures; Ja- panese letters, printing ink, paper, etc. in a glass-case. III. Room: Japanese fancy articles, toys, porcelain, rich cos- tumes, specimens of artistic workmanship, etc. In a cabinet by the wall, model of a Japanese temple. In the centre, glass-case with a model of the island Desima, the Dutch factory, beautifully executed in all its details by Japanese artificers. IV. Room: Costumes from the E. and W. Indies, and from Zeeland; domestic arrangement of the natives of Surinam; idol from the island of Ceylon. On the wall of the chimney-piece Statue of William 1. THE HAGUE. -28. Route. 237 Indian weapons; cap of the sultan of Java; relief panorama of Mont Blanc, the Valley of Chamouny, and the Simplon. V. Room: Cabinet of tortoise-shell containing a large model- house, constructed by order of Peter the Great (p. 280), who purposed taking it to Russia, in order to present to the Empress a view of the interior of a house at Amsterdam. The work is said to have occupied 25 years, and to have cost 30,000 fl. — Chair and goblet used by Gen. Chasse at the siege of Antwerp (p. 113); chair from the prison in which Oldenbarneveld was confined (p. 232); a cannon, gilded, and plated with silver, pre- sented by the Handels-Maatschappy , or Trading Company, to Admiral de Ruyter. In the central glass-cabinet , reminiscences of Prince William of Orange (p. 228), articles of dress worn by him on the day of his assassination ; armour of Admiral Ruyter, with a gold chain and medal presented to him by the States- General ; baton of Admiral Hein (p. 229) ; bowl and goblet of the Gueux (p. 74); reminiscences of Van Speyk (p. 137), etc. The Pie in, an extensive square on the E. side of the Museum, is adorned with the * Statue of Prince William I. (PI. 24) , in bronze, by Royer, erected in 1848. The statue is represented with one linger slightly raised, in allusion to his well-known taciturn- ity. His favourite motto, 'saevis tranquillus in undis', and the dedication of the monument by Hhe grateful people to the father of their fatherland', are inscribed on the pedestal. An * Equestrian Statue (PI. 25) to the same prince was erected in 1845 by his descendant King William II., opposite to the- palace of the present king in the Noord-Einde. The pedestal is adorned with the arms of the seven provinces. It now stands opposite the garden-gate of the palace of the late king , a handsome modern Gothic building, which once contained a celebrated picture-gallery, the chief ornament of Brussels previous to the Belgian revolution, and subsequently the greatest attraction of the Hague. This fine collection was sold by public auction in 1850. The Royal Palace (PI. 15 ), situated opposite to the statue, is handsomely fitted up, and contains several tine family-portraits. It was erected by the stadtholder William III. Near these palaces, on the E. side of the Lange Voorhout, is situated the Ministerie van Marine (PI. 21), or offices of the minister for naval affairs . where a collection of models of vessels 238 Route 28. THE HAGUE. Library. and objects of nautical interest is preserved (fee 1 fl. for 1 — 2 pers., 2 fl. for a party). The models of Dutch men-of-war, Chinese and Indian ships , machinery , nautical instruments , etc. are the principal attractions here. The specimens of 'camels' are also worthy of notice. These were vessels filled with water, and attached to each side of ships of heavy tonnage when unable to pass over the shoals of the Zuiderzee; the water was then pumped out, and the ship thus raised 5 — 6 ft. higher out of the water. This apparatus has been disused since the construction of the North- Canal. Farther distant, on the W. side of the Lange Voorhout , is a spacious edifice containing the royal Library (PI. 1), open to the public daily except Sundays and holidays. The miniatures in the prayer-book of Philip le Bon of Burgundy , painted in grisaille, are of great artistic value ; several of them, such as the Annun- ciation and Coronation of the Virgin , are probably by Memling. The prayer-books of Marie de Medicis, Catharine of Arragon, etc. also merit inspection. A valuable addition to the library was made in 1850 by a bequest of the books and antiquities of Baron Tiel- landt, which now form a separate department. The collection of Coins, Medals, and Gems contained in the same building is very valuable and extensive. The cameos, 300 in number , are principally of ancient origin ; that representing the Apotheosis of the Emp. Claudius is one of the largest known. The following are among the finest : Head of Hercules ; bust of Bacchus ; Faun attempting to rob a Bacchante of her robe ; reversed lyre with horns representing two dolphins, which are crowning the head of Cupid with roses, grouped artistically with the panther of Bacchus, holding the thyrsus in its front paw; mask with large beard and open mouth ; Venus and Cupid ; Cybele riding on the lion ; giant dragging a griffin from a cavern ; helmeted head in profile , with long beard ; Homer as a statue ; several portrait- heads; head of Medusa, in the most beautiful cornelian, a modern work. The catalogue of the director gives full particulars about every object in the collection.' Among the denizens of the Fish-market (PI. 40), at the back of the fish-halls, a number of storks may generally be seen walking about, apparently interested in the busy scene. The stork belongs to the armorial bearings of the Hague, and these birds are main- Huis in 't Bosch. THE HAGUE. 28. Route. 239 tained by the town for the same reason as the bears by the Ber- nese, and the eagles by the citizens of Geneva. The Groote Kerk (PI. 9) . or principal church , adjoining the flsh-market, is a Gothic edifice of the beginning of the 14th cent. The interior contains some monuments. The New Church (PI. 13) is unsupported by pillars. The water in the canals, being entirely destitute of fall, would become impure and injurious to health unless artificially replenished. This is effected by means of a steam-engine on the Dunes, by which fresh water is pumped into the pond and the canals. An Imperceptible current thus occasioned causes the water to flow towards Delft and Rotterdam, where it is finally pumped out into the Maas. The Cannon Foundry (PI. 8) and the Esplanade are near the N.E. gate of the town, whence the road to Leyden issues. Out- side this gate extends the celebrated and beautiful *Park (het Bosch), a plantation intersected by avenues in different directions. On Sundays from 2 to 4 o'clock , on Wednesdays from 6 to 8, and almost daily in summer, a band plays here and attracts nu- merous visitors. On the N. side the forest is converted into a deer-park ; near the road there are regular avenues of stately old trees, whilst the more remote parts are in a more primitive and natural state. In the Park, about IY2 M. from the Hague, is situated the Huis in 't Bosch, i. e. the 'House in the Wood', a royal villa, erected by the widow of Prince Fred. Henry of Orange in memory of her husband, the stadtholder of the Netherlands during the Thirty Years' War. (Visitors ring at the door in the r. wing; fee 1 fl. for 1—3 pers., 2 fl. for a larger party.) In the drawing- room are two mural paintings in grisaille, by de Witt (1749), representing Meleager and Atalante, Venus and Adonis. The Chi- nese and Japanese saloons contain sumptuous silk tapestry, with representations of the birds of these countries with their brilliant plumage, admirably executed. It is said to have been a gift from the emperor of Japan to the stadtholder William V. The Orange Saloon, an octagon painted by celebrated masters of the school of Rubens with scenes from the life of the prince, is considered the principal attraction of the villa. The best of these paintings is by Jordaens, and represents the young prince as triumphing over 240 Route 29. SCHEVENINGEN. vice, sickness, and other enemies of youth. The others present several bold and finely conceived groups, but exhibit numerous traces of the inaccurate drawing of Rubens" school , whilst the aggregate effect can hardly be called pleasing. The light falls from the lofty cupola above, and from the side. To a height of 40 ft. the walls are covered with canvas, above which the paintings are on wood. The Queen's apartment adjoining the vestibule contains a fine picture by Gallait , * Philip le Bel on his death-bed , visited by his insane consort. Opposite to it : The last time of going to church, by E. de Block, and several other pictures. 29. Scheveningen. There are three modes of communication between the Hague and Sche- veningen : (1) Horse Railway every hour fin 'j-j hr.) from the Kneuter Dijk to the Bath-house, fare 20 c. — (2) Omnibus every hour (in 1)2 hr.), to the village 30, to the Bath-house 40 cents, starting from the Plaats at the Hague (W. side of the Vijver) , and from the Bath-house at Scheven- ingen. There is unfortunately no direct omnibus communication between the railway-station at the Hague and Scheveningen. Cabs and other vehicles, see p. 230. — (3) Canal Boat on the new canal six times daily in 25 min., fare 15 c. 5 landing-place at the Hague at the Prinsen Gracht, near the Bosch. Hotels. '^Bath House, the property of the city of the Hague, an ex- tensive winged building on the Dunes, about 3J4 M. from Scheveningen, con- taining upwards of 100 rooms at l'|4 fl. and upwards per day , B. 60 c, D. at 4. 30 o'clock 13J4 fl. (2 fl. for occasional visitors), A. 25 c. ; board and lodging for a servant I'jzfl. per day, each horse I'lzA- A band plays every evening on the terrace, from 6i|2 to 8^-2 o'clock, for which each inmate of the bath-house is charged li|2 fl. weekly. Reading-room per day 15 c., week 60 c, fortnight 1 fl. During the "^eight of the season rooms are seldom to be obtained at this establishment, unless previously ordered. Crowds of Dutch visitors from all parts of the country dine and spend the evening here on Sundays. — 'Hotel Garni, adjacent to the Bath-house, the property of a company ; R. 75 c. and upwards, most of the charges the same as at the Bath-house, excellent cuisine. — Hotel Zeerust (small bath-house), also situated on the Dunes, at the end of the main road from Schevenin- gen; charges somewhat lower than the above, R., B., D., and S. about 4 fl. per day. — The traveller may prefer to take up his quarters at the Hague, and visit Scheveningen for the purpose of bathing only, but in order that . this arrangement may be satisfactory he should have a carriage at his dis- posal. The full benefit of the sea-air can of course be only enjoyed by those who reside on the Dunes. Lodgings may also be procured in the village (Van der Oryp , Van der Duyn-Mooiman, etc.), and it is advisable in this case to procure a written contract; but the air is far less refreshing than that of the beach, and the ^ MiU k / » «^*>"" J SCHEVENINGEN. 29. Route. 241 stranger will hardly find really comfortahle quarters elsewhere than in the two principal establishments mentioned above. The smaller bath - house is frequented principally by Dutch visitors of the middle classes. Baths, ifachine with awning 50. withoxit awning 30 c. •, small machine, which is conveyed to the water's edge only, 15 c. ; fee 10 c. for each bath. Gentlemen bathe on the X., ladies on the S. side of the Bath-house. Living at Scheveningen is about one- third more expensive that at Ost- end or Blankenberg, the favourite Belgian watering places, but the attrac- tions of the Hague and the beautiful woods in the neighbourhood render Scheveningen far preferable. Warm Baths of salt-water, vapour-baths, etc. at the Bath-house , well fitted up. Physician of the Baths, Dr. Mess; usual fee 2 fl. for each consultation. Carriages must be ordered at the Hague (p. 230), either by the visitor personally, or through the porter at the Bath-house. — Chairs and tents may be hired by loungers on the beach. — Le 'Petit Courier' contains a list of visitors. Boats. Scheveningen at present boasts of a single small yacht only, which may be hired at a somewhat exorbitant charge. Donkeys. Per 'ja hr. 20 c, 1,2 day 1 fl. 25 c. : with small carriage 50 c. per hour, 2 fl. for 1)2 day; carriage and pair of donkeys 75 c. per hour, 21 2 fl. for 1:2 day. Scheveningen, or more correctly Schevelingen , a large fishing village with 7436 inhab., is connected with the Hague by a well- paved road, constructed in the middle of the 17th cent. The distance from De Boers Bazaar (p. 230) at the Scheveningen Gate at the Hague to the new Rom. Cath. church at the entrance to the village of Scheveningen is V/2 M. , to the beach 21/4, to the Bath-house 3 M. The road is shaded by a beautiful avenue the whole way , and bordered with plantations of venerable oaks and other trees. On the 1., about half-way, is the royal chateau of Zorgvliet, once the residence of the poet Cats. At the extremity of the avenue stands the clean and prosperous village, with its well-built brick houses, protected from the sea by the Dunes. According to a probably unfounded tradition, the church with its pointed spire stood in the centre of the village about the middle of the 16th cent., but the sea having made extensive encroachments since that period , it now forms the W. extremity of Scheveningen. Behind the village the ground gra- dually rises, so that no view of the sea is obtained until the traveller stands on the summit of the Dunes or sand-hills. On the way from the village to the Bath-house , the traveller passes the loftily situated Restaurant, and beyond it the Pavilion Bakdeker's Belgium and Holland. 2nd Edit. 16 ^42 Route 30. LEY DEN. of Prince Frederick and the Hotel Garni. In the vicinity of the Bath House a number of handsome villas have been erected b> ■wealthy Dutchmen. A Terrace paved with brick, or 'klinkers', leads past the Bath-house and villas as far as the lighthouse, and the Obelisk erected to commemorate the return of King William I. after the French regime. The intervening space between these buildings and the village will probably be gradually filled up, and Scheveningen will then become a very important, as well as an attractive watering-place. The beach itself, although admirably adapted for bathing , is monotonous and unpicturesque , but the magnificent woods a short distance inland afford a great variety of walks, and contribute materially to the advantages of the place. Scheveningen possesses about 100 fishing-boats (pinken) , the cargoes of which are sold by auction on the beach immediately on their arrival , an event which is announced by a public crier. The scene on such an occasion is often remarkably picturesque and entertaining. The herring-fishery is also prosecuted with con- siderable success , many of the 'pinken" occasionally venturing as far as the N. part of the coast of Scotland. In 1673 Admiral de Ruyter defeated the united fleets of France and England off the coast near Scheveningen. 30. Leyden. Railway from the Hague to Leyden in 20—25 min. ; fares 80,60,40 c. — Stations Meuic Oosteinde and Voorschoten. Immediately before reachin;i Leyden, the train crosses the narrow arm of the Rhine which retains the name of the principal river, although less important than the arm which fulls into the N. Sea below Rotterdam. Fiacre into the town 60 c. Hotels. 'Hotel de Zon (PI. 1), in the Koble Straat, opposite to the Raadhuis; 'Lion d'Or (or Hotel Verhaaff), in the Breede Straat, adjoinino the Antiquarian Museum (PI. 11); Heerenlogement den Burg (PI. 2), see p. 243. Cafe. 'Zomerzorg, near the railway-station, with pleasant garden, containing a large pond with gold fish, which are protected by wires from the attacks of gulls. Beer at the restaurants of M tiller, Breede Straat, and De Jong, Kieuwe Rijn. Principal Attractions. Antiquities (p. 246), Siebold's (p. 245) and Katural History (p. 245) Museums. Leyden, the most ancient town in Holland, the Lugdunum Batavorum of the Romans, has a popul. of 40,027, but is suf- ficiently extensive to accommodate 100,000 inhab. , a number it -1-- fZ-^'- LEYDEN. 30. Route. 243 boasted of during its most prosperous period. The Rhine, rr rather the comparatively unimportant arm of that river whir'i alone retains the name (p. 302). flows through the town, resem- bling a canal , and destitute of current except at low tide when the sluices at Katwijk are opened (p. 249). Leyden still presents many picturesque mediaeval features, and although most of the quaint old decorations are in the question- able taste of the 17th cent. , they bear testimony to the former prosperity of the citizens, and their appreciation of artistic forms. The most ancient structure in Leyden is the Burcht, or Bury (PI. 2), situated on a mound of earth in the centre of the town, and commanding a survey of the town and the environs as far as the Dunes. It is of circular form, and was originally a castle of Drusus, although it is sometimes stated that the foundations were laid by the Anglo-Saxon Hengist. The building, which has been restored and adorned with pinnacles . now belongs to the Hotel Burg. Near the Burg is situated the St. Pancras-Kerk, or Hoogland- sche Kerk (PI. 5), erected in 1280, with singular-looking spires in front and at the back. The nave is in the circular, the transept, aisles, and choir in the pointed style. The interior, which is spacious and handsome , but totally destitute of decora- tion, is supported by 38 massive buttresses. By one of these is the insignificant monument of the burgomaster Van der Werff (d. 1604), who in 1571 gallantly and successfully defended the town during a determined siege by the Spaniards of 5 months. A few paces to the "W. of the Burg, a bridge with covered halls , used as a Com Exchange , leads to the Breedestraat , the principal street in Leyden. Here, on the r., rises the long Stadhuis (PI. 1), a quaint, but picturesque structure in the st\le of the 16th cent., with a lofty flight of steps, and somewhat clumsy ornamentation. Over the side-entrance on the N. is the following inscription: 'nae sWarte hVngemoot gebraCht had tct de doot binaest zes dVIzent Mens Chen, aLs't God den Heer Verdroot gaf hi Vns Weder broot, zo VeeL WI CVnsten Wen- sChen (i. e. literally: When the black famine had brought to the death nearly six thousand persons , then God the Lord re- pented of it, and gave us bread again as much as we could wish). This inscription, which refers to the siege of 1574, is a chrono- ' 16* 244 Route 30. LEYDEN. St. Peter's. gram, the larger letters (among which W is reckoned as two Vs) recording the date, and the 131 letters the number of days during vrhich the siege lasted. The accuracy of this enigmatical record is undisputed, but the traveller will probably be somewhat puz- zled if he attempt to verify it for himself. The Stadhuis contains two pictures of value in the history of art. The older of these, preserved in the hall of the tribunal is by Cornelius Engelbrechtsen (1468 — 1533), representing the Cru- citixion, with numerous figures, and on the wings the ^Sacrifice of Abraham and the Miracle of the Brazen Serpent. The other picture, in the apartment of the burgomaster, is a Last Judgment by Lucas of Leyden, a pupil of Engelbrechtsen. A large modern picture in the council-chamber, painted in 1817 by Van Bree, who afterwards became the director of the Antwerp Academy, repre- sents an incident from the siege of 1574: Van der Werff (p. 243), the intrepid burgomaster of Leyden , offers his own body to sa- tisfy the hunger of the despairing citizens , but declares that he will not break the oath by which he had bound himself to defend the city to the uttermost. There are also several portraits of no great interest. The table on which the fanatical Anabaptist John of Leyden once worked as a tailor is shown as a curiosity. St. Peter's (PI. 4), erected in 1315, with double aisles, is the largest church at Leyden, and the last resting-place of many distinguished men. The monument of the celebrated physician Boerhave (d. 1738) bears the modest inscription : 'Salutifero Boer- havii genio sacrum'. Other monuments bear the names of Do- doncBUS, Spanheim, Meerman, Clusius, Scaliger^ and other Dutch savants. The inscription on that of Prof. Luzac records that he perished in the explosion of 1807 (p. 247). According to a popular tradition , Prince William of Orange^ after the siege of 1574, offered to reward the citizens for their gallant conduct in the defence by exempting them from the pay- ment of taxes for a certain number of years, or by the establish- ment of an university in their city. The latter alternative is said to have been preferred, and a High School, or University, was accordingly founded in 1575. Its fame soon extended to every part of Europe. Hugo Grotius and Cartesius (Descartes), the greatest scholars of their age, Salmasius. Scaliger, Boerhave, Wyt- tenbach, and others resided and wrote their works here, and Ar- fniversity. LEYDEN. 30. Route. 245 uiinius and Gomar , the founders of the theological sects named after them . were professors at the university. Lord Stair (d. 1695), the celebrated Scottish jurist, spent several years in exile at Leyden , whence he accompanied his friend and future sovereign William of Orange to Great Britain in 1688. Leyden still enjoys a high reputation as a seat of learning, especially as a school of medicine and natural science . owing to the very ex- tensive and instructive collections which it possesses. Most of the professors (26, students 616), teach at their private residences (some of them still in Latin), a few only deliver lectures in the luiiversity-building itself (Academie, PI. 8). The hall of the Se- iiatus is adorned with portraits of all the professors, from Scaliger down to those last deceased. Niebuhr in his Roman History ex- presses his opinion that no locality in Europe is so memorable in the history of science as this venerable hall. The Botanical Garden (PI. 8), open to the public daily till 1 o'clock , is arranged according to the systems of Linne and Jussieu,*and kept in admirable order. The collection of exotics, especially from the E. Indies, is of great value. The hothouses •contain examples of the cinnamon-tree , the quinine tree , the •coiTee plant, the cotton-tree, the mahogany-tree, the New Zealand flax-plant , the papyrus-tree , the bamboo , the sago-shrub , the tamphor-tree, the 'fly-catcher, the arrowroot-plant, the tamarind- shrub, palms, etc. The trunk of a tree sawn through the middle, with an iron tool resembling a pitchfork imbedded in the heart, is also shown as a curiosity. The *Natural History Museum (PI. 10), open to the public 'daily, except Sundays, 12 — 3 o'clock, is established in a building on the farther side of the canal, and admirably arranged. It is one of the finest collections of the kind in Europe, comprising many valuable specimens of the products of the Dutch colonies in the E. and W. Indies, and other interesting curiosities. The cabinet of stuffed birds includes the collection of M. Temmink. one of the greatest European ornithologists. The cabinet of Comparative Anatomy is considered one of the most complete in the world. *Siel)old's Museum, a collection of Japanese curiosities of great value , is now preserved in a house (360) in the Nieuwe Hoogewoerd, the prolongation of the Breedestraat. It is accessible 246 Route 30. LE\DEiN. Museum of Antiquities. in summer daily, 9 — 7 o'clock, in winter till dusk (50 c. each- person). Colonel V. Siebold (d. 1866), a native of Wiirzburg ia Germany , was originally a physician , and resided in Japan from 1822 to 1830, where in his professional capacity he enjoyed rare opportunities of obtaining an insight into the habits of the interesting inhabitants of that island. After various adventures, not unattended with danger, he succeeded in bringing his col- lection to Europe , where it is probably the most extensive of the kind. It is now the property of the Dutch government, and comprises a domestic altar , the only one in Europe , figures of saints , images in bronze , surgical instruments , fans , parasols, magnets, toys, bons-bons, musical instruments, numerous objects in bamboo, anatomical figures, two suits of armour, flags, pictures, an idol, carefully wrought nets, numerous Japanese books, models of a country-house, etc., beautifully embroidered articles of dress, ornaments, pipes, knives, scissors, amulets, paper, playing cards, articles manufactured of straw , travelling-boxes , brooms , silk, fancy-articles, model of a burial-ground, altar from Tibet, paint- ings in curiously carved gilt frames, etc. The * Museum of Antiquities (PI. 11), in a building at the commencement of the Breedestraat, is open on Sundays 12 — 7, on Tuesd. , Thursd. and Sat. 11 — 4 o'clock, but may be visited at other times on payment of a fee (50 c. for 1 — 2 pers.). It contains numerous and valuable relics and curiosities , most of which are Egyptian, some of them historical, and others illustra- tive of the manners and customs of that people in ancient times. The collection of sarcophagi, domestic utensils, reliefs, statues,^ mummies, papyrus scrolls, ornaments, etc. is one of the richest in the world. The Punic relics are also extremely interesting, con- sisting of numerous sculptures and reliefs, most of them from Carthaginian tombs. Ground Floor. Room I. (r.). Indian idols in stone, Brahma, the -Creator', Wischnu with the trunk of an elephant, the 'Destroyer', resting on skulls, in numerous examples of various sizes (sun, water, fire or power, wisdom, justice, or the past, the present, the future, the Indian Trinity, often represented as a body with three heads); an idol in the form of a bull of lava; relics from Carthage; custodian of a temple, a quaint figure N\ith a sword. — Rooms II. and III. : Greek and Roman antiquities, Ruine. LEYDEN. 30. Route. 247 statues, and inscriptions. — Room IV.: Egyptian antiquities, hierogl>-phics, sarcophagi, statues, four statues from the entrance to the catacombs, votive tablets, Sphinx, captive Jews escorted by armed Egyptians, sun-dials. — First Floor, Room I. : Household gods of the Egyptians, papyrus scrolls, cofflns, mummies, dogs, cats, fishes, crocodile, ibis, well-preserved heads of mummies, with teeth, earrings and hair. — Rooms II. and III.: Egyptian mummies, trinkets, scarabsei, necklaces, bracelets, rings, mirrors, etc., all believed to be about 3000 years old. — Halfway up the next staircase is an extensive collection of Egyptian MSS. on papyrus. — Room IV. : Roman sarcophagi and inscriptions , nu- merous Greek sculptures. — Second and Third Floors: Temple of Minerva and several others, modelled in cork ; casts of celebrated reliefs (Parthenon, Column of Trajan, etc.); model of a 'giant's grave' in the County of Drenthe (p. 313), with Teutonic idols and relics from the tumulus itself; Roman weapons, Greek and Etruscan vases; clay-lamps from Africa, Greece, and Italy; Greek seals, numerous Etruscan bronzes, Greek weapons, helmets, etc. The Ruine (PI. 25) consists of two large open spaces (on one of which a laboratory has recently been erected) planted with trees, situated on the r. and 1. of the Rapenburger Gracht , and partially used as an esplanade. It was formerly covered with houses, and derives its present appellation from an appalling cala- mity , which took place on Jan. 12th, 1807. In consequence of some act of negligence, a barge laden with TO casks of gunpowder lying in the neighbouring canal, took fire and exploded with fear- ful violence about half past 4 p. m. Numerous houses and streets were instantaneously converted into a heap of ruins, whilst human beings, horses, carts, etc. were hurled into the air and dashed to atoms. Three schools with their pupils and teachers were entirely destroyed, and many hundreds of the other inhabitants also perished. In addition to this disaster a conflagration also broke out , and raged in this quarter of the town with the utmost fury, having unfortunately extended to several large magazines of train-oil. Upwards of 800 of the finest houses in Leyden were either to- tally destroyed , or taken down in consequence of the damage sustained. In proportion to its population, Leyden occupies a higher rank than any other town in Holland in the history of art. 248 Eoute 30 LEYDEN. Rembrandt van Ryn, the son of a malster or miller, was born near Leyden in 1G08. His principal master was Van Swanenburg of Leyden, of whom nothing is known, except that he was considered a skilfiU painter by his contemporaries. Rembrandt's education as an artist appears to have been completed at a very early period, for he settled at Amsterdam in 1630, and painted some admirable works shortly afterwards. In 1634 he married Jaskia Uilenbnrg, the daughter of a citizen of good position, and lived hap- pily with her till her death in 1642. This appears to have been the bright- est period of the master's life , during which he enjoyed the society and patronage of many persons of rank, among them his well-known friend the Burgomaster Six. Notwithstanding the considerable sums he received for his paintings (first dated 1627) and his not less celebrated etchings (first dated 1628), and the then high annual premium of 100 florins paid to him by each of his pupils, his alYairs gradually became involved after the death of his tirst wife, and at length in 1656 he was declared bankrupt. This ca- tastrophe was mainly attributable to his mania fur collecting curiosities and works of art, a taste which frequently led him into extravagant expendi- ture. All his highly prized treasures were publicly sold by the Court of Bankruptcy, and realized a miserably insignificant sum. Rembrandt , how- ever, must have been endowed with no ordinary degree of fortitude, for after this disaster he continued to labour with the same indefatigable per- severance, and as brilliant success as before. He even contracted a second marriage shortly after his bankruptcy. After a successful, but chequered career, he died in Oct., 1669. It is now well ascertained that the stories told about Rembrandt's avarice and sordid disposition are totally unfounded. His principal faults appear to have been an insatiable love of collecting cu- riosities, and a too great partiality for the society of those beneath him in lank. Industry and perseverance were his chief merits. His misfortunes alone appear to have deprived him of the rank and popularity he en- joyed in early life. — Rembrandt has the great merit of having developed a hitherto unexplored held of art, which may be described as the concen- tration of light and shade and colour. The effects he represents are rare and beautiful, but perfectly natural. His style is one of striking contrasts. His chief excellence is his power of portraiture. His works are often gro- tesque in design, defective in drawing, and coarse in sentiment, but in his consummate mastery of "chiaroscuro' he stands unrivalled. Gerard Dow, or Dou, the son of a glazier, was born at Leyden in 1613, and became a pupil of Rembrandt in his 15th year. He resembled his great master in his appreciation of the charms of chiaroscuro, but widely diftered from him in the minuteness and delicacy of his execution. Such was his reputation that Van Spiring of the' Hague, one of his patrons, is said to have paid him 1000 tlorins annually for the mere right of having the first ofl'er of his pictures. Notwithstanding the elaborateness of his style, he produced upwards of 200 highly finished works, many of them al- most miniatures, and yet of a free and easy touch. Most of his subjects art- derived from humble life, pervaded with a sentiment of placid kindliness, but rarely animated in action, lie died at Leyden in 1675, and was inter- red in the church of St. Peter. Gabriel Metsu (born at Leyden in 1615, died at Amsterdam about KATWIJK. 30. Route. 249 1670) was a genre-painter of great merit. 3Iost of his scenes are derived from humble life, and are generally remarkable for geniality of sentiment. In warmth of colouring, drawing, ararngement, and keeping he is almost unrivalled. Frans van Mieris, the Elder (born at Leyden in 1635, died in 1681), a pupil of Gerard Dow. was an admirable painter of conversation -pieces. His works, sometimes almost miniatures, are noted for the beauty of their execution. Unlike most of his compatriots, Mieris evinced a marked prefe- rence for refined subjects. Eatwijk aan Zee (Hotel des Bains) lies at the embouchure of the Rhine, 8 M. to the X. \V. of Leyden. A canal closed with huge gates here assists the sluggish river to empty itself into the sea The mouth of the Rhine was completely obstructed by sand in consequence of a hurricane in the year 839, and from that period down to ISO" its waters formed a vast swamp, termed the Haarlemer ileer, which is now almost entirely drained. At length at the latter date the evil was remedied by the construction uf a large canal with three locks, the first of which was furnished with two, the second with four, and that next to the sea with five pairs of gates. During high tide the gates are closed in order to exclude the water, which rises to the height of 12 ft. on the external side, whilst the level of the canal is far lower. At low tide the gates are opened during 5 — 6 hours in order to per- mit the accumulated waters of the Rhine to escape, and the masses of sand thrown up by the sea are thus again washed away. It is computed that 100,000 cubic ft. of water issue from the gates in a second. In stormy weather, when the wind blows towards the land, the tide does not fall suf- ficiently to admit of the gates being opened. The dykes constructed at the entrance to the canal and on the sea-shore are of most imposing dimensions. The foundations consist of piles driven into the loose sand , upon which a massive superstructure of masonrj- is placed. These magnificent works, un- dertaken during the reign of King Louis by the engineer M. Cmrad (p. 250), are the finest of the kind in Europe, and have recently been strengthened in consequence of an outlet of the Haarlemer Meer having been conducted to this point. — The neighbouring kilns convert the heaps of shells thrown up by the sea into lime , which is used in the construction of the dykes. Katwijk is much frequented by the citizens of Leyden as a sea-bathing place in summer. Endegeest, a countrj-residence with attractive grounds, halfway be- tween Leyden and Katwijk, was for many years occupied by Descartes (Car- tesius), who wrote his most important mathematical and philosopliical works here. 31. Haarlem. Railway from Leyden to Haarlem in 1 hr. ; fares 1 fl. 50, 1 fl. 20, 76 c. — Stations: Warvxond (on the 1. rises the extensive seminary of that name for Rom. Cath. priests), Piet-Gyzenbrug (on the 1. is the new church of Noordicijkerhout), Veenenbtirg, Hillegommerbeek, Vogelenzang, with a mo- 250 Route 31. HAARLEM. Groote Kerk. dern Gothic church. The railway here intersects a portion of the sterile sand-hills which form the E. slope of the Dunes of the N. Sea (p. 216). About li|2 M. to the E. of stat. Vogelenzang, near the village of Bennebroek, is situated Hartenkamp^ a country-residence , where Linne , the celebrated Swedish naturalist, resided in 1736 — 38 with his wealthy patron George Cliftbrd, who was English ambassador at that time. Linn^ wrote his 'Hor- tus Clift'ordianus' and his 'Systema Xaturae' here, and also devoted much of his time to horticulture. The beautiful gardens once attached to the house have long since disappeared. Hotels. *Kroon, near the Groote Kerk (PI. 6) ; *Flunckert, the near- est to the station ('|-j M.); a few paces beyond it, Leeuwerik, a second- class inn, both in the Kruisstraat which leads from the station into the town. — On the r., at the egress from the station, are several cafes, where accommodation for the night may also be procured. Fiacre from the station into the town 50 c, luggage extra; to the Pa- vilion (p. 252) 60 c., toZaandvoort (p. 256) 2'|2 fl., Bloemendael 4 fl., Brede- rode 6 fl., Velsen 6 fl. (and fee of 50 c. to 1 11. for each of the longer ex- cursions). — Diligence to Zandvoort daily, fare 50 c. Principal Attractions. Organ in the Groote Kerk, modern pic- tures at the Pavilion, Teyler's Museum. Haarlem (with 30,887 inhab.), which during a long period was the residence of the Counts of Holland, is one of the cleanest and most attractive towns in Holland. Like Lpyden, Haarlem sus- tained a most calamitous siege during the Spanish War. The besiegers were commanded by Frederick of Toledo, son of the Duke of Alva, who succeeded in capturing the town after a siege of seven months (in 1572—73). Upwards of 10,000 of the burghers perished on this occasion, and the commandant, the Pro- testant clergy, and 2000 of the townspeople were executed by order of the victor. Four years later the Spaniards were again ex- pelled. The modern Rom. Cath. Church is near the railway-station. The Groote Kerk (St. Bavo), erected at the close of the 15th cent., is a spacious and lofty edifice. The nave, resting on 28 columns, is separated from the choir by a brazen screen, adorned with figures and foliage. A cannon-ball in the wall is still pointed out as a reminiscence of the Spanish siege. The group in marble beneath the organ represents ecclesiastical poetry and music, expressing their gratitude to Haarlem for the erection of the organ. A monument in the centre of the church is sacred to the memory of Conrad (d. 1808), the engineer who constructed the locks of Katwijk (p. 249), and his coadjutor Brunings (d. 1805). By the choir is the tomb of Bilderdijk the poet -J asK^i-' '-' ^. i^ww'esaaai^w I :i - r. « * .^ -^ .- 5c *-. 2 z: 2 ^ 2r ~c 4 J J i3 i .>, $ ^! '-ri "^ > '^ yt < •> < ^ -^ sc ^^ *: 1 ^ *i; >: !s ■■'. =c '-r ^ t2 A 2=- :d' tc I 4 statue of Coster. HAARLEM. 31. Route. 251 (d. 1831). The small models of ships suspended beneath an arch between the nave and the S. aisle commemorate the 5th Crusade, under Count AVilliam I. of Holland. They date from 1668, the originals having fallen to decay. The pulpit in carved wood, with handsome railings of brass, dates from 1435. A slab on a pillar near it marks the tomb of Coster (see below). The *Organ, constructed in 1735 — 38 by Miiller, was long considered the largest and most powerful in the world, but is now surpassed by several in England (Birmingham, York, etc.). It was taken to pieces in 1868, and is now undergoing thorough repair, but will shortly be re-erected. It possesses 4 keyboards, 64 stops and 5000 pipes, the largest ot which is 15 inches in diameter and 32 ft. long. Under the skilful hand of the organist the tone ranges from an exquisite 'piano" to the most overwhelming 'thun- derstorm' with which the performance generally concludes. The hautbois, piano-forte, trumpet, whistle, etc. are imitated with marvellous accuracy, and the audience are often tempted to doubt whether the mimic chimes are really produced by means of organ- pipes. Public performances on Tuesdays and Thursdays , 1 — 2 oclock, on which occasions the true capabilities of the vast in- strument are rarely brought into action. Private performances at any time on amplication to the organist, 12 fl. for a single visitor or a party. — The tower, 239 ft. in height, erected in 1516, commands an extensive view. The large market-place in front of the church is adorned with a *Statue of Coster, in bronze, designed by Royer, erected in 1856. The inhabitants of Haarlem claim for their fellow-citizen Lourenz Janszoon, surnamed Coster (i. e. 'sacristan', from the office he held in the Groote Kerk), the honour of having been the real inventor of printing. It is proved by old documents that Coster discovered the art of cutting letters on wooden tablets and taking impressions from them, as early as 1423. The ^Spiegel onzer Be- houdenis', preserved in the Stadhuis at Haarlem , was printed in this manner. Coster then proceeded to employ separate and move- able types made of wood, and subsequently of lead and zinc. Although there is little doubt, therefore, that he was the first inventor of printing, there is no foundation for the story that the secret was betrayed by an assistant of Coster to Gutenberg (1440) 252 Route 31. HAARLEM. Stadhuis. at Mayence ; and it is probable that the latter arrived at the same results by his own independent efforts. The Stadhuis contains a fair collection of ancient and modern pictures, most of them by natives of Haarlem (open daily 10 — 3, Sundays 12 — 3 o'clock, admission 25 c. ; catalogue 25 c). 1. Room {Council Chamber): Portraits of Counts and Countesses of Holland. — II. Room: Portraits. — Corridor (beyond the staircase): Heemskerk, Adam and Eve; Grebber, Banquet of the Arquebusiers : Veyts, Tlie Evangelists. — III. Room: (large saloon): Pictures by Corneliszoon, Verspronk, Soutman, Hals, Holstein, Van Loo. Roosentuei. etc., most of them representing meetings of the Ar- quebusiers and directors of charitable and other institutions. — IT. Room: Pictures by Van der Lift, ^^yck^ De Heem., Heems- kerk, Schooreel, Adrian van L'trecht. Berckheyden , De Bray, Aertsen. Vroom, etc. — The saloon on the farther side of the great picture- saloon contains antiquities and various relics, among which is the flag used by the besieged town in 1573 (p. 250). The Hout (i. e. wood) or *Park of Haarlem, on the S. side of the town, is a beautiful and extensive plantation of line old beeches, intersected by walks, enlivened by tame deer, and pro- vided with cafe's and other places of holiday resort. A monument was erected here in 1823 on the spot where Coster first cut his Tvooden types. In this wood, about '/o ^I- from the Hcutpoort (i. e. 'wood gate"), and IV4 M. from the railway station, is situated the ^Pavilion (Paviljoen Wegelegen), erected by the wealthy banker Mr. Hope of Amsterdam in the Italian style. The chateau wa.> afterwards purchased by Louis Napoleon, ex-king of Holland, and now belongs to the government. The entrance is on the S. side. The court is adorned with a copy of the well-known Laocoon ^roup , in lead. The picture-gallery , containing 250 works of Dutch and Belgian artists, is open to the public on Fridays and Saturdays 9 — 4 (in winter 10—4) o'clock; access obtained on other days, except Sundays, at the same hours by payment of a fee (25—50 c). The following pictures are among the most in- teresting (the enumeration begins on the 1. by the entrance): 109. Lebroussart, Savoyard; 105. Kruseman, Elisha and the Shu- namite woman: 257. Weiss, Fruit; 193. Pieneman, Portrait of his father, the painter of the Battle of Waterloo (see below); Pacilion. HAARLEM. 31. Route. 25^ 2'23. Sdiouman , >'aval battle near Palembang; 102. Pienemany Battle of Waterloo at the moment when the Prince of Orange, afterwards King William II. (d. 1849), is wounded, WeUington and his staff in the centre, a very large picture, 30 ft. in length, 20 ft. in height. On each side of the latter, 173. Paxen, Ten views of Java; 106. Kruseman, Girl reposing; 145. Van Os . Lion", life- size; 148. Fan Os , Dutch National-Guard on the lunette near Vaarden, Apr., 1814; 55. Eeckhout, Savoyard with dog and ape; *246. Versteegh, Effects of light and shade; 234. Van Stnjy Woman scouring a kettle; *3. Assche, Waterfall in the Ardennes; 38. Cuijlenburg, Admiral Zoutman ; 208. Riquier^ Kubens intro- ducing the painter Brouwer to his wife; 99. Kremer, Vondel (see p. 273) at the castle of Muiden ; 127. Mcolie , Interior of the church of !St. Jacques at Antwerp ; 250. Vervloet, St. Peter's at Rome. — 2nd Room (r.J: *104. Kruseman, Italian women and guitar-player; 28. V. d. Burgh, Interior of cottage; 94. Knoll. Stable; 259. Winter, Sheep-fold; 21. Bosboom, Tomb of Engelbert II. of Nassau in the church at Breda (p. 184); *102. Kruseman. Parting of Philip II. from William of Orange in 1559 (see p. 139); 221. Schotel, Scene on the coast of Zeeland; 10. Bedaff, Assembly of the States at Dordrecht in 1572, Philip de Marnix enumerates the services rendered to the country by Wil- liam I.; *103. Kruseman, Persons praying to the Madonna; 95. Kobell, Herd of cattle; 129. Noel, Wester Kerk at Amsterdam, \sith figures of intoxicated men; 113. Maas , Good Samaritan; 225. Springer. Town-hall ofVerre; 68. Haanen, Fruit; 126. JSavez^ Meeting of Isaac and Rebecca; 125. i^avez, Elisha raising the son of the Shunamite woman from the dead; 112. Lindhorst, Fruit; 219. Schotel, Stormy sea; 213. Eaden Saleh (a Javanese prince), Buffalo fighting with a lion; 217. Schelfhout, Winter ;cene; 50. Schoenmaker, Irate schoolmaster. — 3rd Room (r.): 254. Voogd . Herd of buffaloes in a storm: *56. Eeckhout, Nup- tials of John lY. , Duke of Brabant, with the beautiful Jacque- line, Countess of Holland (see p. 45); 207. Regenmorter , The painter Steen sending out his son to sell his pictures; *114. Meyer, Sinking of the steamboat 'Wilhelm I.' on the coral-reef of Lucipara in 1837, a very large picture; 249. Verweer , View of Noordwijk; 153. Paelink. Psyche; 225. Waldorp, Agitated sea; 25. Bree, The Prince of Orange in the Orphan Asylum of Am- 254 Route 31. HAARLEM. Teyler's Museum. sterdam after the inundation of 1825 ; 214. Saligo , Portrait of himself; 54. Eekhout , Sick woman visited by a physician; 41. Decoene, Peasants returning home; 141. Van Os, Landscape with cattle; 191. Pieneman, Portrait of the actor Snoek; 190. Piene- man, Portrait of the actress Wattierziezenis ; 206, Leicktrt, Winter scene; 239. Triyt, Catechizing in Norway; 150. Van Os, Flowers and dead game; 27. Brice, Poultry-dealer and cook; 45. Deventer. View of Katwijk. Teyler's Museum in the Damstraet, in the rear of the Groote Kerk, contains collections of chemical, optical, hydraulic, and other instruments , the most powerful electric batteries in Europe, a laboratory, fossils, coins, books, a few modern pictures, valuable MSS., a cabinet of natural history, etc. The Museum was founded in consequence of a bequest of Peter Teyler van der Hulst, a wealthy merchant of Haarlem, who, although not remarkable for his intellectual pursuits during his lifetime, left half of his pro- perty to be devoted to the promotion of science, and the other half to the poor. A certain sum is annually set apart for the purchase of prizes to be competed for by scientific essayists. The Seminary for Teachers (Kxceek school voor Schoolonder- xcijzers) enjoys a high reputation. The Bleaching Grounds of Haarlem were a source of great emolument to the inhabitants before the discovery of bleaching linen with chlorine, and derived their advantage from the peculiar properties of the water in the neighbourhood. The linen brought to them from different parts of the continent was afterwards ex- ported as 'Dutch linen'. Haarlem is celebrated for its Horticulture. The flower-beds of the numerous nursery-gardens display their gayest colours, and diffuse their most delicious perfumes about the end of April and the beginning of May. Whole fields of hyacinths, tulips, auri- culas, carnations, etc., grouped in every variety of colour, are seen on the S. and W. sides of the town. Krelage's gardens, situated in the Kleine-Houtweg , comprise a beautiful winter- garden, as well as a profusion of beds of geraniums, ranunculuses, anemones, camellias, cacti, auriculas, tulips, etc. Many of the finest gardens in Europe aie supplied with roots from Haarlem, and Holland justly claims the merit of having promoted hor- ticulture to a far greater extent than any other country in the Horticulture. HAARLEM. 31. Route. 255 world. In the years 163G and 1637 the flower-trade in Holland assumed, the form of a mania , and tulips became as important an object of speculation as railway - shares and the public funds at the present day. Capitalists, merchants, and even private in- dividuals entirely ignorant of floriculture , traded extensively in roots, and frequently amassed considerable fortunes. The rarer roots often realized enormous prices. It is recorded, for example, that a single 'Semper Augustus' was sold for 13.000 fl., an 'Ad- miral Enkhuizen' for 5000 fl. , an 'Admiral Liefkenshoek' for 4000 fl., etc. A single Dutch town is said to have gained up- wards of 10 million fl. by the sale of tulip-roots in lone year, and a speculator at Amsterdam realized 68,000 fl. in four months in the same manner. At length, however, a corresponding re- action commenced , the mania speedily subsided, the prices fell so rapidly that many of the bolder speculators were totally ruined, and before long a root of the highly-prized 'Semper Augustus' might be purchased for 50 fl. At the present day a root of the rarest variety of tulip seldom costs above 10 fl. Frans Hals (see p. 109), one of the greatest portrait-painters of the Netherlands, spent the greater part of his life at Haarlem, and the celebrated Wouverman lived and died here. Philip Wouverman (b. 1620, d. 1668) was one of the most prolific and successful of Dutch painters. He excels in horses, and is especially prone to introduce a white horse into his works as the principal mass ol light. His compositions exhibit great taste for the picturesque, his figures and animals are well drawn and life-like , and his touch is easy and spi- rited. !No fewer than S0 ft. above the sea-level. The path to it ascends to the 1. , at the end of the wooden fence. The extensive view embraces the admirably cul- tivated and partially wooded plains of N. Holland , Haarlem, the Haarlemer and Wijker Meer, the Y, Amsterdam, the innumer- able windmills of Zaandam, the undulating and sterile sandhills, and the sea. At the base of these hills are situated the pictu- resque red brick ruins of the chateau of Brederode, once the seat of the powerful counts of that name , who acted so important a part in the history of Holland (p. 74). From the Dunes near the village of Overveen (I1/2 M. to the W. of Haarlem) a similar prospect may be enjoyed, but the interesting ruins of Brederode are not visible hence. Zaandvoort, 6 M. to the S. W. of Haarlem (comp. map), a village on the extreme verge of the chain of sand-hills, has lately become a rival of Scheveningen as a sea-bathing place , and at- tracts numerous visitors from Amsterdam. There is a bath-estab- lishment here, as at Scheveningen, where the arrangements, charges, etc. are similar; but Zaandvoort is a much quieter place, being farther distant from the Hague, the seat of the court, and the centre of Dutch fashionable life. The visitor may obtain comfortable board and lodging at the *CuThaus for about 4 fl. a day, or in the smaller house adjacent for 3 fl. ; apartments may also be procured in the village. Bath 60 c, and fee 15 c. — Communication with Haarlem, see p. 250. Railway to Alkmaar and the H elder, see R. 35. Railway to Amsterdam in 1/2 ^r. ; fares 1 fl., 70 c., 45 c. — The railway, canal, and high road run parallel to each other in a straight line the whole way. The new Foort aan de Liede is seen on the r. , immediately after the train has quitted the station. On the r. extends a broad and well cultivated plain, studded with numerous cottages. So recently as 1840 this was the Haarlemer Meer, a lake 18 M in length, 9_M. in breadth, and about 14 ft. in depth , formed in the 15th cent, by the bursting of an em- bankment, and subsequently increasing so considerably in extent as to imperil the towns of Amsterdam, Haarlem, Leyden, and Ut- recht. The operations for draining the lake were commenced in 1840, and completed in 1853, at a cost of 8 million florins. The area of this new and vast 'polder" (see p. 215) is about 72 sq. AMSTERDAM. 3'2. Route. 257 M., and the land thus reclaimed realized an average price of 14345. per acre. It is entirely encircled by canals , used for purposes of drainage and irrigation as already explained. The population of this district is now 7249. The engines with their lofty chim- neys, which were formerly employed in pumping up superfluous water from the 'Meer', serve now to keep it dry, and are worthy of the notice of professional men. At Halfweg (i. e. 'halfway'), the only station between Haar- lem and Amsterdam, there are strong sluice-gates wliich separate the waters of the Y (pronounced i) from the Haarlemer Meer, and if opened would lay the country for 30 M. round, and even the dykes themselves under water. The danger has been greatly diminished by the draining of the lake , but this is still regarded as a point which requires the constant attention of the water-engineers. The old chateau Zwanertburg near the rail- way, dating from the 17th cent., is now the residence of the in- spector of the canals. The four birds (^armoiries parlantes'J over the pillars of the gateway belong to the armorial bearings of the former proprietor. The Inn ter Hart is adjacent. About 250 years ago the chateau (now partly converted into a beetroot-sugar manufactory) lay 1/2 M. from the Haarlemer Meer , which before it was drained had advanced to the very walls of the building. Amsterdam, with the conspicuous windmills erected on the old bastions of the fortifications, now becomes visible. Fiacres etc., see below. 32. Amsterdam. Hotels, year the station of the Rhenish Railway, *Amstel Hotel, the property of a company, R. li,'2 A- and upwards, B. 75, L. 50, A. 50 c., a tariff of charges in every room; *Pays-Bas, Doelenstraat 21, R. from 1 ll., D. 2i'4fl., A. 40 c; *Oude Doelen (p. 230) and Rondeel, toth in the Doelenstraat; -Keizerskroon, Kalverstraat ; -Old Bible, War- moesstraat •, Oude Graaf, Kalverstraat ; Hotel Polonais, Kalverstraat ; Ho tel Haas, Papenbrugsteeg; Elberfeld, a commercial inn; Munt, in the Schapenplein ; Oldewelt, on the Xieuwendijk , in the centre of the town. Restaurants etc. These establishments are often crowded in the after- noon, and the traveller will probably prefer to dine at his hotel. Ebel, Jonge, Graaf, Diligentia, Cafe Suisse, all in the Kalverstraat. Hannier, in the Rokin, French cuisine, D, 1 — 11,2 fl. ; 'Van Laar, Kal- verstraat, near the Dam, oysters 30 c. per doz. — Beer: Schwab, *Poll- Baedeker's Belgium and Holland. 2nd Edit. 17 258 Route 32. AMSTERDAM. Theatres. man, "^Louron, all in the Wannoesstraat ; Roetemeier, in the Amstcl- straat; Roscaram, in d'Water. — Cafes: Poolsche Koffyhuis, Cafe Suisse, ''Cafe Francais, -Cafe Neuf, all in the Kalverstraat. Kear the Tollhuis, on the tongue of land formed by the Noord-Kanal and the Y (or Ij), is situated a cafe to which the citizens Hock on summer evenings. Swimming Bath in the Y, near the W. Dock; others beyond the locks and by the Osterdok-dyk. Bath- establishment (also for ladies) in the r.okin. Shops. The best are on the Kieuwendyk (pron. Neevendyke) and in thti Kalverstraat. Theatres (closed from the beginning of May to the end of August). Stads Schouwburg (PI. 60) in the Leyden'sche Plein^ Grand Theatre des Varie'tes (PI. 50) in the Amstelstraat. The former is devoted almost exclusively to the Dutch drama ^ opera once weekly; ballet also. Perfor- n:ances begin at 8 p. m. The charges for admission vary. — Salon des "V'arictes (PI. 71), in the Amstelstraat, is a place of popular resort. *Hel Paleis voor Volksvlijt (i. e. Palace of National Industry), near the Ut- recht Gate, and not far from the 1. bank of the Amstel, is a spacious estab- lishment where concerts (60 c.) etc. are frequently given. Frascati (PI. 12), concerts and refreshments. Music in the paxk on Sundays from 1 to 4 o'clock, and on summer-evenings by gas-light. Tivoli, an open-air theatre outside the Leyden Gate, where German plays are generally acted. Steamboats daily to Alkmaar (p. 283) 7 times, to Enkhuizen (p. 288) twice, to the Helder (p. 286) 5 times, to Zaandam (p. 279) nearly every hour; Purmerend (p. 288) 6 times. — To Harderwijk (p. 297) 3 times weekly; to Leyden daily, except Sunday; to Rotterdam (p. 222) daily; to Hoorn (p. 288) daily, except Sunday; Haarlingen (p. 316) twice daily; to Hamburg twice weekly, to London twice weekly; to Hull every five days. Cabs to or from the station, for 1—4 pers. 1 fl. — Drive in the town 75 c, for which however the vehicle must be ordered beforehand. — Om- nibus from the station to the Dam and Botermarkt, 20 c, luggage 10— 20 c. Post Office {Postkantoor, PI. 53), in the Vorburgwall, at the back of the Paleis. Church Festival, or Kermis (p. 212), commences on the second Monday in September, and lasts a fortnight. English Church (PI. 19). — Presbyterian Church in the Begyn Straat. Principal Attractions: ^Museum in the Trippenhuis (p. 263), 3Iu§eum van der Hoop (p. 266), Zeemans Kweekschool (p. 262), Entrepot (p. 262), Exchange (p. 270) at the business hours, Paleis (p. 268) and espe- cially the view from the tower, 'Zoological Garden (p. 263), *Walk on the Buitenkant (p. 261), the Ooster and Westerdok. Amsterdam, the commercial capital of Holland, consisted about the end of the 12th cent, of a few fishermen's huts on the Zui- derzee, at the mouth of the Amstel. In 1290 it was presented by Count Florence V, to John van Persijn , one of his barons. The count was afterwards murdered by Gijsbrecht van Amstel and his fellow-conspirators, an event which forms the subject of a tra- History. AMSTERDAM. 3-2. Route. 259 gedy by the talented Dutch dramatist Vondel , and Amsterdam was burned down. In the 14th cent, the town began to assume greater importance, and was sought as an asylum by exiled mer- chants of Brabant. In 1421 one-third of the town was destroyed by a conflagration, but its prosperity soon returned, and at the commencement of the Spanish troubles Amsterdam had become a very important city. In 1490 the Emp. Maximilian I. accorded to the city the privilege of using the Imperial Crown as the crest in their armorial bearings. The real importance and prosperity of Amsterdam date from the close of the 16th cent. , when the Spanish war had ruined Antwerp, and the horrors of the Inqui- sition had compelled numerous enterprising merchants and skilful manufacturers to seek a new home in Holland. Between the years 1585 and 1595 the town was nearly doubled in extent, and was. greatly, favoured by Prince Maurice of Orange. The peace |2 tl.), whence another diligence returns at 6 p. m. 18* 276 Route 33. BROEK. An interesting excursion may also be made to the great Locks for the new Canal from Pampus to the >^. Sea, near Schellingicoude, 2 M. to the N.E. of Amsterdam. Steamboats thither several times daily from the 'Zeeregt' at Amsterdam , in the Buitenkant (fare 20 c.)- These huge locks are five in number, three of them being destined for the passage of vessels, ■while the two others serve for the purpose of pumping out or letting in the water. The largest of them is 300 ft. in length, 60 ft. in width, and suffi- ciently deep for vessels of very large tonnage. The two heaviest of the 34 ponderous lock-gates are said to weigh 84. tons each. The cost of the entire work has amounted to nearly 6 million fl. 33. Broek. steamboats and small boats from the !Kieuwe Stads-Herberg (p. 258) to the opposite bank of the Y, a trip of a few minutes only. From the landing- place to Buiksloot, the first village in N. Holland, I'jj M., thence to Broek 4 M. more. Pedestrians cannot mistake the route from Buiksloot, the first half of which follows the Northern Canal. The latter is quitted at the bridge with the toll-house (De Broekerschouw), where the road and canal to Broek diverge to the r. (N.E.). The town is recognised in the distance by its pointed spire. Canal Boats 5 times daily from the Tolhuis (opposite to Amsterdam) to Broek in 3 hrs. The traveller may also avail himself of the steamer from Amsterdam to Purmerend (6 times daily) as far as the bridge above mentioned, whence Broek is 2 M. distant. Carriages may be hired of Poelman, at Buiksloot ; one-horse to Broek 3 — 4, two-horse 5 fl. Opposite to Amsterdam, about II/2 ^- ^rom Buiksloot, the Willemsluis forms the entrance to the Great Northern Canal (constructed in 1819 — 25 by Blanken, at a cost of about 18 mil- lion florins), which extends from Amsterdam to the Helder, a distance of 42 M., and is 130 ft. broad and 20 ft. deep. Thi& magnificent canal, the largest in the world, is available for ves • sels of very large tonnage , which can pass each other without difficulty. The gates at the entrance, which rest on piles driven into the mud,, are also of vast dimensions. The level of the canal at Buiksloot is 10 ft. below the average level of the sea at half-tide , whilst at high tide the difference is much greater. Vessels of the largest size can enter and quit the canal at any time, and thus avoid the perils of storms and the numerous sandbanks of the Zuiderzee. Vessels are generally towed from Amsterdam to the Nieuwe Diep in 18 hrs. by the canal, whilst formerly many days and even weeks were frequently consumed in accomplishing the same distance via the open Zuiderzee. BROEK. 33. Route. 277 About 5000 sea-going vessels, most of them of considerable ton- nage, traverse the canal annually. In winter it is not unfrequently frozen over, and great expense is incurred in removing the ice. The canal, however, does not admit of the passage of vessels over 1000 tons' burden, and in 1862 the government, with consent of the Chambers . resolved to construct a still broader and deeper ■channel through •Holland op zyn SmalsV, via Zaandam and Vel- sen, to Ymuiden. The cost of the undertaking is estimated at 26 million florins. Broek (pronounced 'Brook') [Hotel on the N. side; Cafe at the landing-place of the canal-boats), a village frequently visited by travellers, by whom it has in turn been ridiculed and extra- vagantly extolled, enjoys the reputation of being the cleanest in the world. Its 1200 inhabitants are almost exclusively occupied with the manufacture of the small, round 'Edam cheeses', some- times termed Zoetemelkskaas (sweet-milk cheese), to distinguish them from the inferior qualities of Dutch cheese, which is pre- pared from sour milk. A few retired merchants and wealthy ship-owners formerly resided here, and their descendants still form a portion of the population. The following quaint notice might formerly be read at the •entrance to the village: 'Kiemand zal voor of na zonsondergang langs het dorp tabak niogen rooken, zijnde het alleen toegestan op den dag, doch zal alsdan de pyp met eenen goeden dop daarop moeten vorzien zijn ; alsmede wanneer iemand meet een paard door het dorp gaat, zal men daarop niet mogen zitten, maer moet hetzelve bij de kop houden en stapvoets geleiden'. ('No one may smoke tobacco in the village after sunset, that being allowed during the day •only, and even then the pipe must be provided with a good cover. Like- wise, whenever any one goes through the village with a horse, he may not ride upon it, but must hold it by the head and accompany it at a foot- pace';. Formerly no vehicle could enter the village, as the entire plain was intersected in every direction by innumerable ditches and cuttings, and was accessible by narrow footpaths only. Equestrians might therefore reasonably be objected to; and the difficulty of communication , which would render a conflagration far more dangerous than at the present day , doubtless gave rise to the prohibition against smoking after dark. The roads are now paved with 'klinkers", or bricks placed edgeways , and occasionally ar- ranged In a kind of mosaic pattern. Most of the houses are con- 278 Route 33. BROEK. btructed of wood, and are carefully painted in order to preserve them from the extreme dampness of the climate. The brightness- of the colours and the variegated tiles of the roofs glittering in^ the sun impart a cheerful and picturesque appearance to the place. The dwellings of the poor are of one storey only; those of the wealthier classes are sometimes of considerable extent, and con- structed in a grotesque and occasionally not unpleasing style. The gable-end is generally turned towards the street and contains the principal entrance to the house, two or three feet above the ground. This entrance , which is reached by a moveable flight of three or four steps , is never employed except on festive oc- casions, and burials. At other seasons the mistress of the house alone is permitted to enter this sanctum. Once a week she opens the shutters, dusts the china, polishes the furniture, and scours the floor. The shutters are then carefully closed , and not re- opened until the following week , when the same process is re- peated. Most of the private houses are of course inaccessible to stran- gers unless provided with an introduction, but the house of Me- jufvrouw Fregeres, at the entrance to the village, may be visited. It contains an extensive collection of antiquities of Broek (offered for sale). Admission to one of the cottages of the cheese-man- ufacturers is easily obtained. The proprietor generally politely invites the visitor to scrape or wipe his boots before entering, whilst the inhabitants themselves leave their shoes or 'sabots' out- side the door. The dwelling is entered through the cow-stable, which usually occupies three sides of the building. Everything is kept so scrupulously clean, that the stable often serves as a kind of reception-room. The floor is paved with 'klinkers\ and the walls consist of carefully scrubbed, unpainted deal-boards. — The process of cheese-making is also shown in the 'whey-cham- ber", where cheeses are seen in the press, or in the brine in which they are afterwards slightly salted. Besides these rooms the wealthier peasants frequently possess furnished and carpeted drawing-rooms and other apartments. — The attractions of Broek are often overrated, but the place is well deserving of a visit. 279 34. Zaandam. Comp. Map p. 240. Steamboats in summer 8—10 times, in winter 4—6 times, from the yieuwe Stadsherberg (p. 261) across the Y to Zaandam in 1 hr., returning almost immediately to Amsterdam. Fares 45 or 3Ci c. The traveller is re- commended to start by the first boat from .Amsterdam, and to breakfast at Zaandam, in order that the afternoon may be reserved for the sights of the city which are not accessible in the early morning. Hotels at Zaandam: Nieuwe St ads Herb erg de Bears. — At the back of the Stadhuis is a large cafe. Carriages may be hired of Stevens : to Broek in 5 hrs. , one-horse 6, two-horse 8 fl. — Railway to I'itgeesi, and thence to Alliuocn- and the ffd- der, see p. 281 ; or to Zandpoort and Haarlem, p. 256. Railway from Amster- dam to Zaandam across the Y in process of construction. A stay of 2 hrs. at Zaandam will enable the traveller to see the prin- cipal points of interest, unless he contemplate a visit to the interior of some of the mills. The whole excursion from Amsterdam to Zaandam and back may be accomplished in 3—4 hrs. Soon after quitting Amsterdam, the traveller perceives a loni^ series of small houses to the 1., built on piers projecting a con- siderable distance into the water. These form the summer-houses of the wealthier citizens , who keep their yachts and pleasure- boats here , and may be observed on line afternoons cruising on the Y, or smoking their cigars and sipping their tea in the open air. A number of these summer-houses must however soon be removed to make room for the new railway across the Y. Far- ther on is the Swimming Bath (p. 258}. The Y is so broad at several places that the coast almost disappears from the \-iew of the steamboat-passenger. The ho- rizon towards the "W. is bounded by the Dunes, and the scene is enlivened by numerous sails , flocks of sea-gulls , buoys and signals, and in the distance a whole regiment of windmills. Zaandam, sometimes erroneously called Saardam, a town with 12,235 inhab., many of whom are said to be millionaires, situated at the Influx of the Zaan into the Y, consists of two long rows of windmills, with the small buildings connected with them. These windmills, about 400 in number, extend along the bank of the Zaan as far as the neighbouring villages of Zaandijk, Koog^ Wor- merveer, and Krommenie. The Zaankanters (i. e. dwellers on the banks of the Zaan) are in the habit of estimating their property according to the number of mills they possess, and one windmill or more generally forms the dowry of a bride in this district. A 2 so Route 34. ZAANDAM. capital of several thousand florins is, however, necessary to enable the proprietor to work one of these establishments successfully. They are employed for many different purposes. Thus within a comparatively small space there are 94 oil, 112 saw, 40 corn, 17 colour, 13 paper, and a number of snuff, mustard and smalt mills (p. 275), besides several rope-walks, starch and macoaroni manufactories , etc. Others work the pumps and apparatus by which the land is drained, and a few are used in preparing sand for domestic purposes from a kind of sandstone imported from Bremen. The most important perhaps of all the windmills are those employed in grinding 'trass', a volcanic product brought from the environs of Andernach on the Rhine. When reduced to powder, and mingled with lime and sand, the trass forms an admirable cement, possessing the rare property of hardening under water, and invaluable in a country the safety of ^which depends solely on the solidity of its subaqueous structures. The Hut of Peter the Great is the principal curiosity at Zaandam. Immediately on landing, the traveller is assailed by a number of guides who offer to show the way to the hut. Their services are unnecessary, but the traveller may perhaps avoid loss of time and farther importunity by engaging one of them (10 c). The way to the hut cannot be mistaken. The road leading W. from the landing-place of the steamer, and skirting the water, is followed as far as the 'Logement of the Czar Peter', a small tav- ern; here a narrow street is entered to the r., a bridge crossed, and 120 paces farther a court-yard reached in which the hut is situated. It is a rude wooden structure consisting of two rooms, and now in a somewhat tottering condition , but is protected by a roof supported by pillars of brick, and erected by order of the late queen Anna Paulowna, who was a Russian princess. A marble slab over the chimney-piece, bearing the inscription: ^Petro Magno — Alexander', was placed there by the Emp. Alexander on the occasion of his visit to Zaandam in 1814. Another tablet com- memorates the visit of the present Emperor of Russia in 1839 (p. 267). A model of the hut , several portraits of Peter the Great and the Empress Catharine, a life-size portrait of the Czar in the costume of a Dutch artizan , visitors' books etc. are pre- served here. The hut was occupied by the Czar Peter in 1697, whilst he worked as a ship-carpenter in the building yard of ZAANDAM. 34. Route. 281 Mynheer Kalf^ with a view to acquire a practical knowledge of the art, and to impart it to his countrymen. The popular story is that he arrived here in the dress of a common workman, under the name of Peter Michaelof. and long escaped recognition; but the truth is that Peter only remained here about a week, for he was unable long to preserve his incognito , and being incessantly annoyed by crowds of inquisitive idlers, he preferred to return to Amsterdam , where he could work unmolested in the building- yards of the E. India Company. The nautical phraseology of Russia still contains traces of a partially Dutch origin. A short walk along the bank of the Zaan will enable the tra- veller to observe the peculiarities of this singular and picturesque town. It is intersected by narrow canals in every direction, and almost every house with its little garden is enclosed by a small canal of its own and connected with the mainland by means of bridges. Since 1850, however, the town has begun to boast of several broad streets. The old church, recently restored, V2 ^• to the N. of the Stadhuis, contains a picture representing a great inundation which took place here in 1825. 35. From Amsterdam to the Helder. Northern HoUand. Comj). Map p. 2i0. Railway by Haarlem to the Helder in 3 hrs. (four trains daily); fares 4 fl. 5, 3 fl. 25 c, 2 fl. — Or by steamboat to Zaandam (p. 279), and thence by the branch-line mentioned at p. 283, via Uitgeest (fares G5, 50, 35 c). Steamboats of the 'United Amsterdam and Zaandam Co.' (the Mer- curius and Prins van Oranje) 10 times daily, from 7 a. m. to S p. m. (45, or 30 c.) ; also of the 'Amsterdam and Alkmaar Screw-Steamboat Co.' 3 times daily. This portion of Northern Holland, being somewhat removed from the ordinary track of tourists, is comparatively seldom visited. The inhabitants are consequently more primitive in their habits than those of Southern Holland, and still adhere more tenaciously to the picturesque costumes of their ancestors. The head-dress of the women is particularly remarkable. It consists of a broad band of gold in the shape of a horse-shoe across the forehead, serving to keep the hair back , and decorated at the sides with large oval rosettes of the same metal. Above this is worn a cap or veil of rich lace, with wings hanging down to the neck, while 282 Route 35. NORTHERN CANAL. From Amsterdam handsome earrings of gold and precious stones complete this elab- orate and picturesque head -gear. These trinkets are almost al- ways of gold, even among the humbler classes, or at least of silver, and are handed down as heirlooms from one generation to another. The province of N. Holland, 40 M. in length, and 20—25 in width, is a peninsula connected with the mainland by a very nar- row isthmus , and almost entirely surrounded by the North Sea and the Zuider-Sea. The land on the sea-coast consists of sand only, the soil of the interior is generally of a clayey consistency. Almost the entire district lies below the level of the sea , from which it is protected on the W. side by the Dunes, and on the E. by lofty embankments. The dykes in the vicinity of the Helder are the most extensive and massive in Holland, with the exception of those of West-Kappel in Zeeland. The province is traversed in almost its entire length by the great Northern Canal, the principal artery of the traffic of Amsterdam (p. 27G). The cattle of this district are of a remarkably tine breed , and produce an abundant supply of milk of excellent quality. The mutton of N. Holland also enjoys a high reputation, and the wool of the sheep is highly prized. By water from Amsterdam to Zaandam , see p. 279. At Zaandam the Amsterdam boat is quitted for the small steamer on the Zaan, about 3 min. walk distant. The voyage on this small canal-like river is interesting and picturesque as far as Wormer- veer. The banks are sprinkled with a succession of remarkably neat and trim houses, most of them painted green, and peeping with their red roofs from among trees. Innumerable windmills are also passed. Stations Koog, Zaar\d!jk and Wormerveer. About 1 hr. after quitting Zaandam the steamer enters the Marker Vnart (i. e. the 'Marken Canal'), stops near the village of Marken, tra- verses part of the Alkmaarer Meer, and then enters the Northern Canal. To the r. extends the Schermer Polder (p. 287). The traveller will observe that the canal here lies considerably higher than the surrounding country, which here consists almost entirely of moor and bog. Railway to Haarlem, see p. 256. The line now turns to the N. The first stat. is Zandpoort. To the r. of the railway extend luxu- riant green pastures , where numerous herds of fine cattle graze. Beverwijk (Zon) is a pattern of Dutch neatness and clean- to the Helder. ALKMAAR. 35. Route. 28o liness in its carefully swept streets , its trim houses with their freshly painted jalousies and shutters, and its rows of trees- pruned like hedges. The village of Wijk aan Zee. I72 M. to the W. of Beverwijk, is a sea-bathing place of much humbler preten- sion than Scheveningen or Zandvoort. The line now passes the Wijker Meer. Stat. XJitgeest. From Uitgeest to Zaandam branch-line in 25 min. ; fares G5, 50, 35 c. — Stations Kroiumenie , IVoroierveer , Koog- Zaandijk. Zaandam., see p. 279. Next Stat. Castricum, where the English troops who had landed at the Helder were defeated on Oct. 5th , 1799, by the French, under Gen. Brune (conip. p. 287). Alkmaar (Burg; Tcelast ; Hof von Hclland ) derives its appellation (which signifies 'all sea') from the lake and morass which formerly surrounded it, but are now drained. The town, with 11,400 inhab., is another model of Dutch order and clean- ness. The Stadhuis in the Langestraat, not far from the church, was erected in 1507. The small tower and gable show traces of the Gothic style. The Church of St. Lawrence is a magnificent example of Gothic architecture, with lofty vaulting of wood in the interior, and kept in admirable order. On the E. side is a painting in seven sections, by an unknown Dutch master (1504), representing the Seven Works of Mercy; the figure of the Sa- viour is introduced into each of the seven groups. The now empty choir contains a model of Admiral de Ruyter's ship suspended from the roof. The tomb of Florian V., Count of Holland (d. 1296), "with the original tombstone and coat of arms, is also ob- served here. The tower of the church fell in the 15th cent, and has never been replaced. A view of the church and tower is to be seen on the wall of the choir. Alkmaar carries on a very extensive cheese-trade. A market held here weekly is frequented by the peasantry of the entire province of N. Holland, and the cheese sold by them is exported to all parts of the world. Upwards of 4000 tons of cheese are annually weighed in the Town Weighing House, being about one- half of the produce of the province. The building with its hand- some tower was erected in 1582 in the 'baroque' style. The busy throng assembled here on market days, and the huge piles of red and yellow cheeses heaped up in every direction present a curious and picturesque scene. 284 Route 35. EGMOND. From Amsterdam The Bosch, or park near Alkmaar , although inferior to those of Haarlem and the Hague , affords pleasant walks. Trotting- matches ( Harddraverij ) are occasionally held here , and the prize generally consists of a silver coffee-pot presented by the magis- trates. One of these matches should if possible be witnessed by the traveller , who will not fail to admire the costumes of the peasantry and the unsophisticated pleasure of the spectators. The Cemetery on the "VV. side of the Bosch, surrounded by a lofty wall, and resembling a park, contains few tombstones. The graves are all numbered and arranged in straight lines. About 3 M. to the W. of Alkmaar are situated the scanty ruins of the castle and old abbey-church of Egmond, the ancestral seat of the illustrious family so often mentioned in the annals of the Netherlands. Many of the ancient Counts of Holland are interred here. The abbey at a very remote period was a zealous patron of science, and its chronicles formed the prin- cipal source of the early history of Holland. In 1572 the fanatical icono- clasts destroyed the venerable and once magnificent abbey. Three villages in the vicinity are named after the Egmont family, Egmond Binnen, Egmond -op den Hoef and Egmond aan Zee. A lighthouse erected in 1S33 near the latter is adorned with a colossal lion in honour of Van Speyk. To the N.W. of Alkmaar lies Bergen , where the English army under the Duke of York was defeated by the French and Dutch under Brune in 1799. Alkmaar lies on the W. side of the great Northern Canal. The landing-place of the steamboats is on the farther bank. Those irom the Nieuwe Diep and from Amsterdam arrive about at the same time , and proceed on their respective voyages after a very short delay. Beyond the fields and pastures to the 1. rise the extensive Kamper - Dunes , off which the English fleet gained a victory (known as that of 'Camperdown') over the French and Dutch. The dunes derive their name from the village of Kamp. which lies on their N. slope. Between Kamp and Petten, a distance of 17-2 M., there is a gap in the chain of sand-hills, which is sup- posed once to have been one of the embouchures of the Rhine. This space, termed the Hondboschje, is considered one of the most dangerous parts of the Dutch coast. The Steamboat now traverses the Zype , an old polder, passes the station 't Zand ('the sand'), and stops at the great Zyper Sluis. The Anna-Paulowna-Polder . a tract of several thousand acres, was reclaimed from the Zuiderzee after a labour of three years. to the Helder. NIEUWE DIEP. 35. Route. 2Sb The works were completed in 1850. The transverse embankment at the upper sluice-gate affords a view of the entire polder and the sea-dykes by which it is bounded. The canal which inter- sects the polder is connected with the N. Canal by means of a gate. Towards the N. W. rises the slender lighthouse on the lofty Kijk Duin. The scenery between Alkmaar and the Nieuwe Diep is monotonous; extensive pastures with cattle and an occasional farm-house are its principal features. As the traveller approaches his destination, the masts and sails of the vessels in the harbour and roadstead of the Meuwe Diep become visible. On the 1. the green ramparts and casemates of the harbour-fortiflca'tions are ob- served. The steamboat stops near the great bridge, 3/4 M. from the hotel. The Nieuwe Diep (*Z»en Burg . commanding a view of the roads ; carriages at the landing-place of the steamers), or Willems- oord as it is sometimes termed with reference to the government dockyard here, the harbour of the Helder, has been constructed entirely by artificial means within the last 80 years. Its exten- sive piers and bulwarks are destined to afford protection to vessels entering or quitting the Northern Canal. A considerable number of Norwegian and English ships are always observed here. The flood-gates at the entrance to the basin are the troadest in Hol- land (about 68 ft.). The Dock Yard is shown (9 to 1. 30 o'clock) to visitors who have obtained permission from the contre- admiral ('schout bij nachV). The Arsenal contains a few historical pictures. (Fee 1 fl. flor 1—3 pers., 2 fl. for a larger party.) Part of the Dutch Fleet is generally stationed here, and the traveller may easily obtain permission from one of the captains to visit his vessel (fee to sailor 25 — 50 c). The boatmen who row the visitor out to the roads demand several florins for the trip. An old frigate in the harbour serves as a barrack for naval cadets, and as a place of exercise for recruits. The band of the cadets plays in the Cafe' Tivoli on Sundays (admission 25 c). In front of the saloon in which the cadets play, the mast of Van Speyk's cannon -boat (p. 137) is planted as a memorial of his heroic conduct. The Railway from Alkmaar to the Helder, passing Hugo- 286 Route 35. HELDER. From Amsterdam waard, N. Scharwoude^ Schagen and Anna-Paulowna, traverses a llat and uninteresting district. The Helder (Heerenlogement) is connected with the Nieuwe Diep by the Helder Canal, I72 M. in length and bordered by an almost uninterrupted succession of small houses. Towards the close ■of the previous century the Helder was little more than a large lishing-village. In 1811 Napoleon caused extensive fortiftcations to be constructed here by Spanish prisoners of war, and the works were completed by the Dutch government in 1826. The Helder is now a prosperous and steadily increasing commercial town witli 18,558 inhab. , and at the same time a fortress of great impor- tance, capable of accommodating 30,000 men, but tenable by one- fourth of that number. The fortifications extend from tlie North Sea to the Zuiderzee , strengthened by strong defences towards the- sea on the N. and "VV., and by substantial works towards the land on the E. and S. sides, and farther protected by sluices for inundating the environs in case of a siege. The batteries com- mand the strait of Marsdiep and the entrance to the harbour and tlie N. Canal. As this, the extreme promontory of N. Holland, is exposed more than any other part of the coast to the violence of the wind and the encroachments of the sea, it is protected on all sides by huge and massive dykes. The great Helder Dyke, about 6 M. in length, and 12 ft. in width, is traversed by a good road from the Nieuwe Diep to the Helder. It descends into the sea to a distance of 200 ft., at an angle of 40'^. The highest tide never reaches the summit, while the lowest still covers the foundations. Huge bulwarks projecting several hundred fathoms into the sea at certain intervals add to the solidity and safety of the structure. This remarkable artificial coast is entirely constructed of Norwegian granite. The Helder is almost the only part of the Dutch coast where the sea is navigable in the immediate vicinity of the land. The force of the tide which runs through the strait between the Hel- der and the island of Texel prevents the accumulation of sand, and the channel is thus kept open. The traveller is recommended to walk along the dyke as far as the Fort Erfprins, and thence by the coast and the sand-hills to the lighthouse and Fort Kijkduin, 372 M. from the Nieuwe^ Diep. Beyond the intrenchments of the first of these forts , the to the Helder. TEXEL. 35. Route. 287 embankment is exposed to the full force of the North Sea. Fort Kijkduin rises on the highest point of the northern dyke. The lofty lighthouse, which may be visited by those who are unacquainted with such structures, commands a fine prospect. The neighbouring village of Huisduinen also belongs to the Helder. A fierce and sanguinary naval battle took place off this Dune on Aug. 21st, 1673, between the combined English and French fieets and the Dutch under De Ruyter and Tromp, in which the latter were victorious. In September, 1799, an army of 10,000 English and 13,000 Russian troops, commanded by Admiral Aber- crombie and the Duke of York, landed at this point. The Russians lost their way and were totally defeated by the French at Bergen (p. 284), whilst the English were compelled, after a skirmish at Castricum, to yield to the superior forces of the French and to retreat, having failed in their endeavours to induce the Dutch to revolt against their new masters. Opposite to the Helder, 'and separated from the mainland by the strait of Marsdiep, lies the island of Texel, to which a ferry- boat plies daily, starting at 9 a. m. from the Nieuwe Diep , and landing at Oudeschild about 2 hrs. later. De Burg, the capital of the island, is situated 3 M. inland. The island, which is 70 sq. M. in extent, and has a population of 6200 souls, consists principally of pasture -land, and affords sustenance to about 34,000 sheep, yielding sometimes as much as 100 tons of fine wool annually. A highly esteemed quality of green cheese is prepared from the sheep's milk , and the mutton is also excellent. The northern extremity of the island is termed Eijerland ('land of eggs'), on account of the myriads of sea-fowl which visit it, and are believed to come from Norway. The eggs are collected in great numbers and sent to Amsterdam, where they readily find purchasers. Harlingen (p. 316) in Friesland may be reached by a sailing- boat with a favourable wind in 5—6 hrs., but there is no regular communication. A boat may be hired for the passage for 10 — 12 fl. The route is recommended in fine weather to travellers proceeding to Leeuwarden (p. 313), Groningen (p. 314) and Emden (p. 318). Farmers should visit some of the Polders (p. 215) of Northern Holland (viz. Anna Pauloicna^ Zype-^ Wieringerioaard, JIugowaard, Schermer, Beem- s(er') , where they will have an opportunity of seeing many admirably orga nized dair>--farms. Ordinary travellers , however, will find few attractions 288 Route 35. PURMEREND. in this part of X. Holland. Communication between the following towns is maintained by diligences : Medemblik (Oranjezaal), ^Yith 2191 inhab., was formerly the seat of an academy for the education of young seamen. Enkhuizen (Valk), with 5581 inhab. , once an important herring-fishing place , was the birthplace of the celebrated painter Paul Potter (d. 1654). Hoorn (Doelen), with 9566 inhab., the ancient capital of X. Holland, was the birthplace of Willem Schouten, the first European who sailed round the southern extremity of S. America, and named it Cape Horn after his native place. Furmerend (Vergulde Hoskam; Beeren Logement) is situated on the N. Canal , at the S. extremity of the Beemster , between the three Polders of Purmer, Wormer, and Beemster. The last of these, one of the finest 'Pol- ders' in Holland, begins immediately beyond the Beemster-Gate. Alidden- Beemster, the centre of the polder, is 4i,2 31. distant (Het Heerenhuis^ a good inn). Steamboats between Purmerend and Amsterdam several times daily. Edam (Heerenlogement) is celebrated for its cheese. At Monnikendam (Doelen), a great anchovy-market, the founder of the philantropic *Soc/e?2/ /or the Public Welfare (p. 274) is interred. 36. From Amsterdam or Rotterdam to Utrecht and Arnheim. Railway from Amsterdam to Ttrecht in 3U— li'4 hr. ; fares 1 fl. 70, 1 fl. 25, 85 c. — From Rotterdam to Utrecht in 1 — li.U hr. ; fares 2 fl. 70, 2 fl. 5, 1 fl. 35 c. — From Utrecht to Arnheim in Vl^—i^li hr. ; fares 2 fl. 90, 2 fl. 40, 1 fl. 50 c. Steamboat from Amsterdam by the Vecht to Utrecht 4 times weekly also from Rotterdam by the Leek to Vreesw^k, and thence by another steamer on the canal to Utrecht. Amsterdam to Utrecht. The immediate environs of Am- sterdam consist almost exclusively of Polders (p. 215). The most remarkable of these, and one of the lowest in Holland, is the Diemermeer (18 ft. below the sea-level), the W. side of which the train skirts soon after quitting the station. Extensive nursery and kitchen gardens , intersected by numerous canals , are also passed. The old road, of which little is seen from the railway, is bordered by a succession of villas, summer-houses and gardens, most of them the property of wealthy merchants of Amsterdam, and extending the whole way to Utrecht. The prosperity and taste of the Dutch is nowhere more apparent than in this district, of which the traveller will enjoy a better survey from the steamboat. Rotterdam to Utrecht. Canals and pastures constitute the principal feature of the district traversed. Near stat. JSieuwer- kerk the line skirts the E. side of the extensive Zuidplas- Polder. GOUDA. 36. Route. 289 The traveller will occasionally find it difficult to determine whether land or water is the predominating element. Beyond Stat. Moordrecht the Kromme Gouw is crossed. Gouda, commonly termed Ter-Gouw (Heerenlogement; Zalm), a town of some importance on the Yssel (which must not be con- founded with the river of that name in Guelders, see p. 298), with 15,352 inhab., is encircled by fine old trees, and possesses several handsome churches. The * stained-glass windows, 31 in number, in the Groote Kerk (St. John), magnificently coloured and most elaborately executed by the brothers Wouter and Dirk Kra- heth in the latter half of the 16th cent., enjoy an almost Euro- pean reputation. The subjects depicted are scriptural and allego- rical. In one of them is a portrait of Philip II., partially destroyed by lightning ; in another that of the Duke of Alva. The stained glass was executed partly at the cost of different towns, partly by private subscription, on the occasion of the restoration of the ihurch in 1560. One of the windows is of the 17th cent. , and bears manifest indications of the decline of the art at that period. The original designs, coloured and drawn with the utmost accuracy, are preserved in the sacristy. — The Stadhuis with its Gothic facade is also worthy of inspection. The staple commodities of Gouda are bricks ('■Klinker) and clay-pipes (of which there are 54 manufactories). The material for the former is obtained from the muddy bed of the Yssel, the deposits of which are admirably adapted for the purpose. The clay of which the pipes are manufactured is brought partly from the environs of Coblenz on the Rhine, partly from Namur on the Meuse. The pipes are formed in moulds of brass, and bored with iron ^^•ire by hand, a process requiring great skill and attention. — The cheese named after this town and manufactured in the environs is of inferior quality. Next Stat. Oudewater , also on the Yssel , was the birthplace of the theologian Arminius (p. 244), the founder of the sect of •Remonstrants". A picture in the Stadhuis by Dirk Stoop com- memorates the savage atrocities committed here by the Spaniards in 1575. Woerden, with 4199 inhab., situated on the 'Old Rhine", for- merly a fortress, was garrisoned by the Dutch in 1813 , but was captured and plundered by the French under Gen. Molitor. The Baedekeb's Belgium and Holland. 2nd Edit. 19 290 Route 36. ZEIST. From Amsterdam fortifications have recently been demolished , and their site con- verted into public promenades. The large building on the 1. is a prison. Woerden, Oudewater, and the picturesque and prosperous vil- lages of Zwamrnerdam and Bodeyraven on the road to Leyden were plundered and treated vvith great cruelty by the armies of Louis XIV. under Marshal Luxembourg in 1672 , as Voltaire records. Next Stat. Harmelen. beyond which the canals become rarer, and the country more undulating and agricultural. Utrecht, see R. 37. The town is pleasantly situated in the midst of gardens. (A tolerable cafe near the station.) The train now crosses the canal (Rynvaart) which connects Utrecht with the Leek (as the principal branch of the Rhine is termed, see p. 302). On the r. and 1. are four well-preserved intrenchments ('lunettes'), now disused. Stat. Zeist (Driebergen) , a picturesque and thriving village, not visible to the railway-passengers , is the seat of a Moravian colony (about 260 members), with which an excellent educational establishment is connected. The entire community resides in a pile of contiguous buildings , possessing many of their goods in common, and strictly observing the precepts of their peculiar sect. They somewhat resemble the Quakers of England , and are re- markable for the purity and simplicity of their lives. Married women, widows and young girls are distinguished by a difference of costume. The fertile environs are carefully cultivated. Gardens, orchards, plantations, corn-fields and pastures are passed in rapid succession. During the harvest the corn is stacked in a peculiar manner, and protected by roofs. Next Stat. Maarsbergen. Stat. Veenendaal is noted for its honey. A great part of the neighbouring district was inundated in March, 1855, in consequence of the bursting of an embank- ment , numerous farm-houses and cottages were half submerged, and railway-trayellers were obliged to proceed for upwards of 2 M. in small boats. Stat. Ede is the station for Wageningen (p. 301), which lies 41/2 M. to the S. Near stat. Wolfhezen is an exten- sive plain stretching to the Zuiderzee, which has been frequently used as a military exercising-ground by Dutch and French armies. One of the latter, by command of Marshal Marmont in 1804, to Arnheiin. AKMIELM. JO. Route. 291 threw up a lofty mound, on the heights between Ede and Yee- iiendaal. to commemorate the coronation of Napoleon I. As the train approaches Arnheim several picturesque glimpses are ob- tained of the Rhine and the Betuwe (p. 301) on the r., and of the Hartjesberg on the 1. Arnheim. ■= Z o n , outside the town at the X.W. gate , the nearest to the station and the steamboat-pier of the Netherlands Co. (R. 1 fl. , B. 60, L, and A. 60 c); ~Zwynshoof d ('Boar's Head', a common sign of Dutch inns), in the town (R. and B. I'U £1.); *Bellevue (R. and B. li 2— 2 fl., D. 11 2 fl.)i *Pays-Bas, near the pier of the Cologne and Diisseldorf Co. ; "-De Paauw ('Peacock'), near the station, a small second-class inn. Arnheim, the Roman Arenacum, with 28.872 inhab. (nearly 1/2 Rom. Cath.), formerly the residence of the Dukes of Guelders, is still the capital of the Dutch province of that name, whose inhabitants are described by an old proverb as : ^Hoog van moed, klein van goed, een zwaard in de hand, is 't wapen van Gelderland' ('Great in courage, poor in goods, sword in hand, such is the motto of Guelder-land'). The town is situated on the S. slopes of the Veluwe range of hills (p. 301), and was re-fortitied by Oen. Coehoorn at the beginning of the 18th cent., after it had been taken by the French in 1672. The French camp which was pitched in the vicinity, as well as the town itself which was gar- risoned by French troops , were taken on Nov. 13th , 1813 , by Billow's corps of the Prussian army, the same which distinguished itself at the Battle of Waterloo. The French Gen. Charpentier fell on this occasion. Arnheim presents the usual features of a clean and prosperous Dutch town, which are especially striking to the traveller descend- ing from the poorer district of the Upper Rhine. The choir of the Groote Kerk contains the monument of Charles of Egmont, Duke of Guelders (1513) , a recumbent mail-clad figure in white marble, on a sarcophagus of black and white marble, adorned with statues of the Apostles etc. Above, on the N. wall of the choir, is the kneeling figure of the Duke beneath a wooden canopy, ■covered with the suit of armour worn by him during his life-time. (The sacristan lives on the N. side of the church, fee 15—20 c.) Near the Groote Kerk is the Stadhuis , erected by Maarten van Rossum, general of Duke Charles of Guelders, the indefatigable opponent of the Emp. Charles T. It is locally termed the Duivels- huis (-Devils House"), owing to its grotesque decorations, and con- 19* 292 Route 37. UTRECHT. tains the public library. — The Rom. Catholic Church , near the old church , contains a lofty modern altar of carved wood and a handsome pulpit in the Gothic style. The district around Arnheim is the most picturesque in Hol- land. The finest point in the environs is the estate of the *nartjesherg ('Hart's Mount') or Sonsbeek, the property of a weal- thy Dutch family. The entrance is near the railway station, about ^2 M. to the N. of the town. The park and grounds are open to the public (visitors ring the 'Bel voor deen Portier")- The cus- todian of the grounds, who also shows the Belvedere Tower, lives at the entrance (fee for 1 pers. I/2 fl., for a party 1 — 2 fl.). The park contains fine groups of trees, fish-ponds, waterfalls, grottoes, a deer-park, a riding-course etc. The stud is also worthy of in- spection. The Belvedere commands a beautiful view of the park and the fertile Betuwe as far as the Eltener Berg and the distant heights of Cleve. The whole visit, which occupies about 2 hrs., will amply reward the traveller in fine weather. Immediately below the town rises the Rehberg, a slight emin- ence with pleasure-grounds. Higher up is the country-residence of Heidenoord, adjoining which there are beautiful walks through the woods in all directions provided with benches at intervals. — Near the thriving village of Velp, about 3 M. to the E, of Arnheim, rises a range of heights on which several beautiful parks and pleasure-grounds are situated, all of them open to the public. 37. Utrecht. Hotels. *Pays-Bas, in the Junkershof; 'Kasteel vanAntwer- pen, on the Oude Gracht, R. 1 fl., L. 60, B. 70c.; Hotel de TEurope, and Belle vue, both on the Vreeburg; *H6telde la Station, with restaurant and cafe. Cafes. Restaurant Suisse, near the cathedral; Nieuwe Bak, in the Lijnstraat ; Cafe de la Station. Bookseller. Kemink & Son, by the cathedral. Utrecht (60,428 inhab., 19,090 Rom. Cath.), the Trajectum ad Rhenum of the Romans (derived from ^Oude Trecht\ 'the old ford'), subsequently called Ultra Trajectum, and Wiltaburg or Wxlttrecht, is one of the most ancient towns in the Netherlands. Dagobert, the first king of the E. Franks, founded the first church at Utrecht , which was then occupied by Frisians, whose bishop was St. Willebrordus. St. Boniface, a monk from Scotland, who ^ ^£\ D1 c UTRECHT. 37. Route. 293^ afterwards became Pope, once taught here. The archbishops of Utrecht were among the most powerful of medieval prelates, and the town was celebrated at an early period for the beauty of its -churches. It first appertained to Lorraine , then to the German Empire, and was frequently the residence of the emperors. The Emp. Conrad II. died here in 1039, and the Emp. Henry V., the last of the powerful Salic line, in 1125, and were both interred in the cathedral of Spires. The Emp. Charles V. erected the Vreeburg here in order to keep the citizens in check, but it was destroyed in 1577 on the outbreak of the War of Liberation. The site of the castle, which was never rebuilt, Immediately at the entrance to the town from the station , still retains the name. Adrian Floriszoon Boeyens D'Edel , the tutor of Charles V. , one of the mot pious and learned men of his age, who afterwards became Pope as Adrian ^1., was a native of Utrecht. The ^Paus- huisen ('pope's house") is still pointed out as the house in which he was born. It is situated on the Oude Gracht, near the Wees- brug , and contains a few pictures referring to the history of Adrian. In 1579 the Union of the seven provinces of Holland, Zeeland, Utrecht, Guelders, Over-Yssel, Friesland and Groningen, by which Prince William I. of Orange was appointed stadtholder, and the independence of the Netherlands established, was con- cluded in the Hall of the Academy of Utrecht. The States General were in the habit of assembling here from that date down to 1593, ■when the seat of government was transferred to the Hague. In 1672 Louis XIV. levied a heavy contribution from the citizens. The celebrated Peace of Utrecht , which terminated the Spanish AVar of Succession, was concluded here on April 11th, 1713. At Utrecht the Rhine divides into two branches, one of which, termed the ^Old Rhine', falls into the N. Sea near Katwijk (p. 249), while the other, termed the Vecht, empties itself into the Zuider- zee near Muiden. The town itself is intersected by two canals, the Oude and Nieuwe Gracht. Before the great inundation of 839, in consequence of which the greater volume of the water of the Rhine was carried off by the Leek, the principal branch of the river flowed past Utrecht. The * Cathedral , dedicated to St. Martin , was founded and consecrated by St. Willebrordus , Bishop of Utrecht, about the year 720, and enlarged by Bishop Adelbold in 1015. After hav* ,294 Route 37. UTRECHT. I'nherslty. ing been repeatedly injured by storms and conflagrations, the sacred editice -was entirely remodelled by Bishop Henry of Yianden (1251—67). On Aug. 1st, 1674, during a fearful hurricane, the aisle connecting the choir with the tower fell, and as it was never re-erected, its site is still vacant. At an earlier period the church liad suffered severely from the ravages of the puritans. The choir, which is 100 ft. in height, and 30 ft. in width, has been compa- ratively recently disfigured by pews , so that the impression pro- duced by this venerable Gothic relic and the slender pillars is almost entirely destroyed. The only monument worthy of note is that of Admiral Van Gent , who fell in 1672 at the naval battle of Soulsbai. It was executed in black and white marble by Ver- hulst in 1676. A canopy of painted stone with armorial bearings, adjacent to the latter, is the monument of Bishop George of Egmont (1549). The extensive vaults beneath the church contain the hearts of the German Emperors Conrad II. and Henry V., who died at Utrecht, An old monument which is sometimes al- leged to be that of St. "Willebrord , is that of Schenk van Thou- tenberg (d. 1580), the last Bishop of Utrecht. The fine Gothic ( loisters now partially belong to the University. The church, which is externally supported by piers and flying buttresses, has recently been restored. (Sacristan's fee 50 c, more for a party.) The Cathedral Tower, formerly 354 ft. , now 321 ft. only in height, erected in 1321 — 82, rests upon a handsome vaulted pas- sage 36 ft. in height. It forms a simple square , with a double superstructure, of which the upper is octagonal and of open work. A figure of St. Martin on horseback serves as a weather-cock. The chimes consist of 42 bells. A flight of 120 steps ascends ta the dwelling of the sacristan, 200 more to the gallery, and 133 thence to the platform. The view embraces the greater part of Holland , a part of Guelders and N. Brabant. The sacristan (fee 25 c. for each pers.) accompanies visitors with a telescope, with the aid of which Hertogenbosch, Rotterdam, Oudewater, Montfort, Amsterdam, the Zuiderzee, Amersfoort, Wageningen, Rhenen and the Leek are distinctly visible in clear weather. — The church of St. John, situated a short distance to the N, of the cathedral, with a Gothic choir, contains a few monuments of little interest. The University, founded in 1636 (22 professors and upwards of 400 students), has lost nothing of its ancient reputation. The Mint. UTRECHT. 37. Route. 295 collections connected with it, with the exception of the library, will bear no comparison with the treasures which belong to tl.e university of Leyden. The university -building adjoins the ca- thedral. The Kxi-eekschool voor militaire Geneeskundigen ('School for Military Physicians), where all the medical men in the Dutch army receive their educafon, should be visited by professional men. The Stadhuis, erected in 1830, contains a collection of pic- tures and other objects of art, open to the public on Wedn. V2 — 27-2 o'clock, at other times by payment of a fee (25 c). Most of the pictures are from the suppressed monasteries of Utrecht, and are interesting links in the history of art. (Cata- logue for the use of the public.) 1st and 2nd Romms : Medireval sculptures. — 3rd R. : ArcLitectural drawings ; model of the statue of Prince William at the Hague (p. 231). — 4th R. (large saloon): Chair and table of carved ebony, on which the Peace of Utrecht was signed (Apr. 11th, 1713;. Most of the drawings on the wall represent the outrages committed in the cathedral by the iconoclasts. — 5th R. : Xo. 21. portrait of D. de Goyer, Burgomaster of Utrecht: *19. Jan Schoreel., Madonna with the donors : 23. Portrait of the Emp. Charles V. ; ~D. Schoreel (1498—1547), Portraits of five donors, in the centre the painter himself; 14. Schoreel, Vo-pe Adrian VI.; 1—4. Schoreel, Busts of donors. 7n the centre a model of the cathedral and models of locks. — 6th R.: A glass- cabinet here contains various coins, keys of the town, heralds' batons, Ve- netian glasses etc.: 11. Bloemart, Peter praying; 33. Huchtenburgh , Battle. Several old weapons and standards. — 7th R. : Plans. — Council Cham- ber: Pienemann, Homage done by the town of Utrecht on the accession of William III. The Agricultural Collection contains a few objects which may interest farmers (e. g. a series of ploughs of various primitive forms). Those who have leisure may also visit the Natural History Collection. The Veterinary School at Utrecht is the only establish- ment of the kind in Holland. The Cherracal Laboratory enjoys a high reputation. An Observatory, provided with good instruments was erected a few years ago on the town- wall. The Mint ('s Eyks MuntJ , where all the money current in Holland and its E. Indian colonies is coined, is situated in the Promenade, near the Tivoli. It is connected by a railway with the town-moat, where vessels are in waiting to receive their pre- cious freight. On the E. side of the town is the celebrated Malielaan. a 296 Route 37. UTRECHT. quadruple avenue of lime-trees, more than Y2 M. in length, ■which were spared by the express command of Louis XIV. at a period when no respect was paid by his armies to public or pri- vate property. The former Ramparts have been converted into pleasant promenades, bounded on all sides by flowing water. The latter and the springs which Utrecht possesses constitute an ad- vantage enjoyed by few other Dutch towns. Amsterdam derives a portion of its drinking water from Utrecht. The district for many miles around Utrecht is attractive, being adorned with numerous country-seats , parks and gardens. The finest of these estates is the chateau of Soestdijk, about 12 M. to the N. of Utrecht, which was presented by the States General to the Prince of Orange (afterwards King William II., d. 1849), in recognition of his bravery at the Battle of Waterloo, which is commemorated by a handsome monument in the avenue. It is now the residence of the Queen Dowager. Another pleasant ex- cursion may be taken to Zeist (p. 290), Driebergen, and Doom (carriages may be hired of Meijer, in the Marienplaats, 15 fl. for the day). rtrecht is the principal seat of the Jansenists, a sect of Rom. Ca- tlKilics who call themselves the Church of Utrecht, and who now exist in Holland only. The founder of the sect was Bishop .Tansen ius of Ypern (p. 28), whose five theses on the necessity of divine grace in accordance with the tenets of St. Augustine (published by him in a book termed -Au- gustinus) was condemned by a bull of Alexander VII. iu 1656 at the in- stance of the Jesuits, as heretical. The adherents of the bishop refused to recognise this bull, thus de facto separating themselves from the Romish Church. The sect was formerly not uncommon in France and Brabant, but was suppressed in the former country by a bull of Clement XI. in 1713, termed '■UnigenUus\ to which the French government gave effect. The Dutch branch of the sect, however, continued to adhere to their peculiar doctrines. After various disputes with the court of Rome, a provincial synod was held at Utrecht in 1763. According to the resolutions of that assembly the 'Old Rom. Catholics', as the .Jansenists style themselves, do not desire to renounce their allegiance to the Pope and the Church of Rome. But (1) they reject the constitution of Alexander VII. of 1656, on the ground that the five theses which it con- demns are not truly to be found in the writings of Jansenius as alleged. They recognise the infallibility of the pope, which however they deny to be capable of extension to historical matters. (2) They repudiate the bull '■ Uniffenitus\ and appeal from it to a general Council, and they adhere to the Augustine doctrine and its strict code of morality. (3) They deny the right of chapters of cathedrals to elect their ov\ti bishops. In all other respects the Jansenists difler but slightly from the Rom. EMMERICH. 38. Route. 297 Catholics. The tendency to great simplicity of form is exhibited in some of their rites and ecclesiastical vestments, and the vernacular is more fre- quently used than the Latin language, but in all essential points the service and doctrine are those of the church of Rome. Their church -discipline is more severe than that of other Rom. Catholics. Thus they profess to ab- stain from animal food during the whole season of Lent, not on Fridays only, but throughout the entire week. The Archiepiscoiyal See of Utrecht comprises three parishes at Utrecht, and sixteen in other towns and villages of Holland. To the Episcopal Dio- cese of Haarlem belong two parishes at Amsterdam, and six in other parts of Holland. A Jansenist community also exists at Nordstrand in Denmark. At Amersfoort^ the second town (with 12,000 inhab.) in the province , there is a seminary connected with this church, the adherents of which (now about 5000) are gradually diminishing in number. From Utrecht to Zwolle by railway in 2 hrs. The prolongation of this line to Leeuwarden and Groningen connects the provinces of Utrecht and Friesland, but is of no great importance to the ordinary traveller. The most important station on the line is Harderwijk (BOtel de la Paix ; Het Wapen van Zuiphen), a small fortress on the coast of the Zuiderzee , where recruits fot the Indian service are assembled and trained. Zirolle, see p.Hi; thence to Leeuwarden and Groningen p. 314. The new line from Utrecht to Boxtel affords direct communication by Railway to Belgium (via Tilburg to Brussels and Antwerp, via Eindhoven and Hasselt to Liege), see pp. 143, 1S4. 38. From Arnheim to Cologne. 1. Vi& Emmerich and Dusseldorf. Railway in i^'-z — 6 hrs., distance 93 M. ; Prussian frontier at Elten. — Steamboat daily in summer, in 13 hrs. : Prussian frontier at Emme- rich. — Travellers entering Prussia are reminded that all new articles , or objects not intended for personal use, are liable to duty, but the examina- tion is generally lenient. Stat. Zevenaar is the last in Holland, Elten the first station in Prussia. Stat. Emmerich ( HolUindisclier Hof) is a clean, Dutch-looking town. At the upper extremity rises the Gothic tower of the church of St. Aldegund (1283), at the lower is the Miinster, a church showing the transition from the style of the 11th to that of the IQth cent. — The next place of importance is Wesel (*DGmbu3ch), a strongly fortified town with 17,429 inhab. (5000 Rom. Cath.), situated at the confluence of the Lippe and the Rhine. The Gothic Rathhaus , or Town Hall , and the lofty gabled houses are picturesque. Stat. Oberhausen (*Rail. Restaurant), on the Ruhr^ is the 298 Route 38. DUSSELDORF. From Arnheim junction for Kuhrort, an important commercial place situated at the mouth of that river (p. 299). This is one of the most important coaldistricts in Prussia, whence the entire Rhenish province prin- cipally derives its supplies. — Stat. Duishurg (18,000 inhab., 5000 Rom. Cath.}, a town of very ancient origin, is said once to have been fortified by Charlemagne. Calcum is the stat. for Kaiserswerth , a venerable town situated on the Rhine , 1 '/2 ^^- to the W. (p. 299). Stat. Diisseldorf (*Europ€an Hotel; IJreidenbacher Ilof^ etc.), with 41,292 inhab. (8G00 Protest.), formerly the capital of the Duchy of Berg, is celebrated as the seat of a School of Painting, founded in 1767 by the Elector Palatine Charles Theodore, and revived in 1822. This institution, one of the great cradles of German art, is established in the Palace, which was partially destroyed by the French in 1794, but restored in 1846. One of the annual exhibitions of modern pictures should if possible be visited. The market-place is adorned with an Equestrian Statue of the Elector John William (d. 1716). Cologne, see Baedeker's Rhine and N. Germany. Steamboat Route. On the traveller's right, soon after Arnheim has been quitted, lies Huissen, a short distance below which the Yssel (pronoun- ced ice'l), one of the most important branches of the Rhine, diverges to the 1.. descending to the Zuiderzee. 1. JIuis Loo, or Candia, an old chateau of brick, with three towers. 1. Pannerden, a village with a pointed spire, a windmill and well built houses. year MiUingen the most important of the numerous branches of the Rhine diverges to the \V., and from this point down to its junction with the Maas takes the name of Waal. 1. Lobith is the last Dutch village, where the luggage of travellers descend- ing the river is examined. — On the opposite bank of the river, and at some distance from it, is the Schenkenschanz., situated on another branch of the river. It was formerly a strong fortress, and lay at the bifurcation of the Waal and Lower Rhine, the situation of which has gradually changed, and is now at Millingen. The stunted church-tower of the village of Schen- kenschanz now rises from the ruins. The Rhine was crossed near this point on June I2th, 1672, by Louis XIV. with Prince Conde , who was wounded here, and a large army, with a view to conquer Holland. The boldness of this 'Passage of the Rhine' is greatly extolled by Boileau in his elaborate lines written on the occasion, but owing to an unusual drought the river was nearly dried up, and the undertaking was probably attended with no real difficulty. The first indication of the traveller's approach to the mountainous and picturesque scenery- of the Rhine is the range of wooded heights on the r. , to Cologne. RUHRORT. 38. Route. 299 whicii form the watershed between the Rhine and Meuse, and on which Clei-e (see below) is pleasantly situated, about 3 M. from the river. The first eminence on the bank of the river itself is the Eltener Berg with its ancient abbey (now suppressed), which rises on the 1. as Emmerich is ap- proached. The traveller is, however, still nearly a hundred miles distant from the far-famed Seven Mountains, which rise at the commencement of the most picturesque portion of the river. Emmerich, see above. r. Grieth. 1. Rees, once strongly fortified. At the upper end of the town rises the trunk of an old windmill. The Rom. Cath. church, with its two square towers, was erected at the commencement of the present century. r. Xanten , situated 2 M. from the Rhine , is a town of very ancient origin, with a handsome Gothic church, the spires of which are conspicuous, 1. Wesel (p. 297). On the same bank, higher up, rises the old castle of Haus Wohnung. r. Or soy. 1. Ruhrort lies at the mouth of the Ruhr, which here forms an impor- tant harbour. The coal-traffic renders the town a busy commercial place. Coal- trains are transported hence to Homberg, the terminus of the Aix-la- Chapelle railway, by means of a powerful steam-ferry. r. Homberg, whence Aix-la-Chapelle may be reached in 3—4 hrs. 1. Duisburg (p. 297), situated P[-2 M. from the river. r. Uerdingen, a busy manufacturing place. 1. Kaiserswerth ('emperor's island') was formerly an island, which deri- ved its name from the Emp. Frederick I. The brick walls and archways of the ancient castle of the Franks, which was considerably enlarged by that monarch, are still extant. In 1062 the Archbishop] of Cologne carried off the young German king Henry IV. from this castle. The parish-church, dating from the 13th cent., contains the relics of St. Suitbertus, who first preached the Gospel in this district. 1. Diisseldorf (p. 298). Farther on, the tower of the beautiful church of St. Quirinus at Neuss, erected in 1209, comes in view on the r., at some dis- tance from the river. r. GrimUnghausen. r. Worringen. a small town, near which, on .Tune 4th, 1288, John Duke of Brabant and Adolph Count of Berg defeated and took prisoner the Arch- bishop Siegfried of Cologne (p. 81), a victory which added the fertile Duchy of Limburg to the dominions of Brabant. 1. Miilheim, a manufacturing place , at the lower extremity of which rises Stamrnheim, a chateau of Count Fiirstenberg, with a Gothic chapel. The numerous towers of Cologne and its dense mass of houses now become visible. Cologne, see Baedeker's Rhine and A'. Germany. 2. Via Cleve and Crefeld. Railway in 4—5 hrs., distance 96 31. — Scenery uninteresting. Zecenaar, the frontier-station of Holland, and Elten, that of Prussia, have been mentioned in the previous part of this Route. 300 Route 38. CLEVE. The line here diverges from that already described, and crosses the Rhine by means of a floating bridge propelled by steam. Cleve (*Maiwald; * Robbers; *Styrum), once the capital of a Duchy of that name, is charmingly situated on three hills. On an abrupt and picturesque eminence in the middle of the town rises the old palace , with its Schwanenthurm ('swan's tower"), 180 ft. in height, erected by Duke Adolph I. in 1493. A branch- line to Nymegen diverges here. Near stat. Goch the low range of sand-hills which form the watershed between the Rhine and the Meuse is quitted, and the train now traverses a flat agricultural district. Stat. Kevelaer is a favourite resort of pilgrims. Stat. Geldem was once the capi- tal of the Duchy of Guelders. Stat. Kempen was the birthplace of Thomas a Kempis. Crefeld is a wealthy commercial town, one of the most important in Prussia. The silk and velvet manu- factured at Crefeld are said to be worth I'/o million pounds ster- ling per annum. — Stat. Osterath, then Neuss (Drei Konige ; * Rheinischer Hof) , where the line is crossed by that from Aix-la-Chapelle to Diisseldorf. This is one of the most ancient towns in Germany, having been founded by the Ubii , B. C. 35, and frequently mentioned by Tacitus as Novesium, a Roman stronghold. It was unsuccessfully besieged during 48 weeks by Charles the Bold, Duke of Burgundy, in 1474, and in 1536 was captured by Alexander Farnese , by whom the inhabitants were treated with great cruelty. It once lay on the bank of the Rhine ; but the river , having gradually altered its oourse, is now I1/2 M. distant from the town. The spacious Church of St. Quirinus , founded in 1209, is in the transition- style from the Romanesque to the Gothic. Stat. Horrem is the station for Dormagen, the Durnomagus of the Romans. On the Rhine is situated Zons, the Roman Son- Hum, with numerous towers. Stat. Worringen, the Rom. Burun- cum, is celebrated in the annals of the Netherlands for the vic- tory mentioned p. 299. Cologne, see Baedeker's Rhine and N. Germany. 30 i 39. From Arnheim to Rotterdam. The Rhine and Leek. Railway via Utrecht, see R. 36. — Steamboat daily in summer in oio—G hrs., returning in 9— 10 hrs. — Diligence to l^ymegen 3 times daily in 1^ 4 hr. The range of wooded hills on the r. hank of the Rhine helow Arnheim is studded with numerous country-residences ('■Buitens" ). On the 1. rises the tower of the village of Elst. At the hase of the hills on the r. lies Oosterbeek , a village with a number of villas, where the Emp. Henry III. was born in 1017. Farther on is the house Duno. now an inn; then the chateau of Vooren- u-aard. The r. bank of the river is the Veluwe (i. e. 'barren, or unfruitful island), the 1. bank is the Betuwe ('good island), both of which are districts separated from the mainland by differ- ent ramifications of the Rhine. The hills here are almost the only heights in Holland, and farther down the river the traveller sees nothing but a perfectly level country, the monotony of which is nowhere relieved except by the Dunes or sand-hills on the coast of the N. Sea, 1. The villages of Heteren and Renkum. r. Wageningen (5363 inhab.), an ancient town of some impor- tance, is connected with the Rhine by means of a short canal. Ede (p. 290), 41/2 M- to the N. , is the nearest railway-station. 1. Opheusden, a village with a flying bridge. On the bank of the river, about half way between Wagen- ingen and Rhenen , rises the Heimenberg (*Ridder"s Inn) , an eminence commanding an extensive view over the Yeluwe. A bench at the summit, termed the 'KoningstafeV, derives its name from the Elector Palatine Frederick, King of Bohemia, who, hav- ing been banished from his dominions after the Battle of the White Mount, near Prague, in 1620, sought an asylum with his uncle Prince Maurice of Orange, and lived in retirement at Rhe- nen. Some of the events in his romantic career are well de- scribed by James in his novel entitled 'Heidelberg". r. Rhenen (Koning van Boheme) possesses a Gothic church and elegant tower, erected in 1492—1531, the finest structure of the kind in Holland. The town is insignificant. r. Elst, an extensive village; farther on, the tower of Amer- ongen. The channel of the river becomes narrower, and at 302 Route 39. NIEUWPOORT. From Arnheim I. Wyk by Duurstede it divides into two branches. Tlie narrow arm diverging to the r. retains the name of 'Rhine' ('Kromme Rijn', or 'crooked Rhine'), whilst that to the 1. is termed Leek and here describes a wide curve. Wyk by Duurstede, the BatavoduTum of the Romans , was an important commercial place at the time of Charlemagne. A fine breed of cattle may be seen grazing in the rich pastures on both banks of the river. 1. KuHenburg, once the seat of the counts of that name, and frequently mentioned in the history of the War of Liberation in the Netherlands, peeps forth with its stunted tower from the midst of a plantation. The railway bridge across the Leek is that of the Utrecht-Boxtel line (p. 143). Below Kuilenburg lies Fcrt Willem II. , recently constructed to command the river. It con- sists of two strong blockhouses, one on each bank. Between Kuilenburg and 1. Vianen (Brederode's Inn), which is supposed to be the Fa- num Dianae of Ptolemy, are sluice-gates by means of which the surrounding district can be laid under -water in case of a hostile invasion. On the opposite bank , connected with Vianen by a bridge of boats, is situated r. Vreeswyk, sometimes termed De Vaart, whence diligences and steamboats run several times daily to Utrecht. The ebb and flow of the tide is perceptible as far as Vreeswyk. r. Jaarsveld ; then 1. Ameyde, where de narrow ZederiA; canal ■diverges, intersecting the Betuwe (p. 301), and uniting with the Waal at Gorcum (p. 306). 1. Nieuwpoort, and nearly opposite to it the town of Schoon- hoven (Ileerenlogemeni), formerly well-known for its salmon-fishery, now for its traffic in precious stones. Between this point and Gouda, in June, 1787, the consort of William V. of Orange, stadtholder of the Netherlands, and sister of Frederick William IL of Prussia, was intercepted on her way to the Hague by the 'patriotic' party and compelled to return to Nymegen. This was the immediate cause of the invasion of Holland by the Prussians, who in a bloodless campaign of one month totally defeated the rebels and reinstated the stadtholder in his office. r. Streefkerk possesses a picturesque church-tower, surroun- ded with flying buttresses. to Rotterdam. FIJENOORD. :}9. Route. 303 r. Lekkerkerk is protected by means of long walls and dykes from the inundations of the Leek. The anxious care bestowed on these important structures is here apparent. 1. Kinderdijk consists of a long row of small and well-built houses on and near an embankment, with numerous windmills. The name ('children's dyke') owes its origin to a tradition that during an inundation two children in a cradle were landed here in safety, and that the embankment was constructed to commem- orate the almost miraculous event. At the extremity of the Kin- derdijk are extensive iron-foundries , the proprietor of which (d. 1767), originaUy a journeyman carpenter, is said to have been a millionaire at the time of his death. r. Krimpen, with its pointed spire, is situated near the con- fluence of the Leek and Meuse. 1. 't Huis ten Donk is a handsome country-house surrounded by lofty trees which extend to the water's edge. 1. Ysselmonde lies opposite the influx of the 'Dutch YsseV (as distinguished from that of Guelders) into the Maas. The chateau with its four towers in the vicinity was erected by a wealthy bur- gomaster of Rotterdam. r. Kralingen possesses extensive salmon-fishing apparatus. The embankments are here constructed with the utmost care. 1. Fijenoord is a busy manufacturing place, with an extensive machine factory and dockyard belonging to the Netherlands Steam- boat Co. (proprietors of the 'Batavier' and 'Fijenoord") , with a staff of 700 workmen. Permission to ^isit this establishment must be obtained from M. van Oord , the director of the Co., who resides at Rotterdam. Ferry between Rotterdam and Fijen- oord every 1/4 tr., 5 c. Immediately after the steamboat has passed Fijenoord , the '■Guard Ship', a small vessel of war, comes in sight and announ- ces the proximity of the great commercial city of Rotterdam. An extensive amphitheatre of houses now becomes visible, stretching along the bank of the river, which is here upwards of 1 M. in width. The steamer lands its passengers on the Boompjes (p. 224), or wharf. Rotterdam, see p. 222. 304 40. From Nymegen to Rotterdam. The "Waal and Maas. Steamboat several times daily in G'|2 lirs., returning in 10 hrs. Nymegen is reached by railway from Cleve in 1/2 ^r- (stations Cranenburg and Groesbeek), or by diligence from Arnheim. Steam- boats of the Netherlands Co. also descend daily from the Upper Rhine to Nymegen and Rotterdam. Nymegen (Stadt Frankfurt ; Place Royale ,• Salm ; Rotterdamer Wagen) , sometimes called Nimwegen , with 23,115 inhab. , the Castellum Noviomagum of Caesar, stands upon seven hills on the 1. bank of the Waal. In the middle ages it was frequently the residence of the emperors, especially of Charlemagne, who presi- ded over a court of justice in the ancient Frank palace of the Vallcenhof. Eginhard , his son-in-law and biographer , assigns to this edifice an equal rank with the celebrated palace at Ingelheim on the Upper Rhine; but it was unfortunately destroyed by the French bombardment in 1794. The scanty ruins are situated outside the town, on an eminence planted with trees and laid out in pleasure-grounds. Of the church connected with the palace a fragment of the choir only is extant. A most interesting and well-preserved relic is the sixteen-sided Baptistery, which is said to have existed before the Christian era , and to have been con- secrated as a Christian place of worship by Pope Leo III. at the request of Charlemagne. The pointed windows and the groined vaulting of the interior, as well as other characteristics of the present structure, appear rather to indicate the 12th or 13th cent. as the date of its erection. At the E. extremity of the town, near the Valkenhof, rises the * Belvedere, a lofty building resembling a tower (now a cafe, 20 cents charged for the ascent). An old tower, said to have been erected by the Duke of Alva , formerly occupied this site, and the present building stands on the same foundations. The platform commands an extensive and pleasing prospect, embracing Cleve, Arnheim, the heights of Elten, the fertile fields and rich pastures of the Betuwe, the greater part of Guelders, and the AVaal, Rhine, Maas, and Yssel. A number of picturesque sails on the rivers and distant canals will be observed in clear weather. The *Raadhuis ('Town Hall'), erected in the Renaissance style NYMEGEN. 40. Route. 305 ill 1554, and judiciously restored, is adorned with the statues of those kings and emperors who have been the patrons of the town. It contains a few pictures and a collection of Roman antiquities. The sword with which Counts Egmont and Hoorne were beheaded a Brussels (156S) is preserved here (p. 78). The vestibule contains raised seats adorned with carving, and formerly occupied by the ma- gistrates on certain judicial occasions. A wooden statue of Charle- magne is also shown. The curious mechanism of a clock is worthy of notice. The custodian points out a picture bearing an inscrip- tion to the effect that it is the 'Riddle of Nymegen'. It repre- sents a complicated relationship , a problem which the visitor will probably not attempt to solve. On the night of Aug. 10th, 1678 , the celebrated Peace of Nymegen between Louis XIV. of France, Charles II. of Spain, and the States General was signed in this building. The portraits of the ambassadors are still shown. The Town Hall was the scene of a barbarous outrage at the be- ginning of the 18th cent. The building was stormed by the de- mocratic party, who had rebelled against the stadthoider, and the venerable and worthy burgomaster beheaded. The insurgents then proceeded to hang five of his adherents from the window-sills. The St. Stevenskerk, a fine Gothic structure in the form of a Greek cross, was begun in 1272. Contrary to the rules of the Gothic style, the vaulting of the nave is circular instead of pointed, and is supported by 35 slender pillars. The choir con- tains the Monument of Catharine of Bourbon (d. 146-9), wife of Adolph Duke of Guelders; the 'brass' which the marble encloses is destitute of artistic merit. At the sides below are lepresented the 12 Apostles and 16 coats of arms of the House of Bourbon. The organ is a fine instrument. The tower which was burned down in 1566 has been replaced by the present unsightly structure. Nymegen, rising amphitheatrically from the river, presents an imposing appearance when viewed from the opposite bank of the Waal, with which a 'flying bridge' communicates. The town is strongly fortified on the land side. The opposite bank was also formerly fortified by an intrenchment which has long since dis- appeared. Lent is the village on the r. bank. Martin Schenk of Nijdek , who is still gratefully remembered by the townspeople, was drowned in the river here in 1589, during an unsuccessful Baedeker's Be]gium and Holland. 2Ed Edit. 20 306 Route 40. GORCUM. From Nymegen attempt to deliver the town from the Spaniards. His body liaving Icon found by hig enemies ^vas quartered and suspended in chains Irom the principal gates of the town. One of the^e chains is still preserved at the Raadhuis. The mutilated remains were after- wards buried in the principal church. r. Tiel (BellevueJ, with 6991 inhab., received its municipal liberties as early as 972, under Otho I., and was at that period an important commercial place. In 1582 it was unsuccessfully besieged by the Spaniards, but was captured by Turenne in 1072. Gen. C'hasse' (p. 113) was born here. 1. Bommel, or Zalibommel (Hof van Gelderland), formerly a strongly fortified place, was besieged in 1599 by the Spaniards, whose utmost efforts however proved fruitless. In 1672 it was taken by Turenne after a gallant defence by the small garrison. The ebb and flow of the tide affect the river as far as this point. The railway between Utrecht and Hertogenbosch crosses the Waal near Bommel. The Bommeler Waard, or Island of Bommel , formed by the Waal and the Maas, was strongly fortified by the French in 1813, but was taken by a skilful manceuvre of the Prussian Gen. V. Billow (p. 98). The French finding themselves completely shut in on three sides , availed themselves of the only passage left to them and retreated to Crcvecopur. The island is defended on the E. side by the Andreas intrenchmen^, constructed by the Spaniards at the end of the 10th cent., in order that they might thence carry on their operations against the town of Bommel. On the W. side of the island rises the 1. Castle of Loevenstein^ at the base of which the waters of the Maas and Waal unite. The river below the point of con- fluence is called the Merwe , or Merwede, but as it approaches Rotterdam it is usually again termed the Maas. In 1619 Noyer- beets, president of the senate, and Grotius, the learned pensionary or chief senator of Rotterdam, were condemned to incarceration in this castle for life (comp. p. 232). The latter, however, effected his escape in a book-chest, with the aid of his wife. 1. Woudrichem, or Worcum, another fortified place, commands the mouth of the Maas. r. Gorinchem, or Gorcum (Doelen; Hooiwagen) , a fortified town with 9000 inhab., is situated at the mouth of the Linge, to Ectterdmn. DOKPRF.CHT. 40. Route. 307 a small river which intersects the entire Betuwe. It was one of the first towns which the 'Water Gueux', or those of the insur- gents who aided their compatriots by sea, took from the Spaniards in 1572. At the beginning of the present century Gorcum was taken by the French, and occupied by them till Feb., 1814. when it was surrendered to the Prussians with its valuable mili- tary stores. The garrison of 3500 men were taken prisoners. The town was also captured by the Prussians in 1787, when Fred. "William II. marched into Holland to assist his brother- in-law against the insurgent 'patriots". A vast district, termed the Biesbosch (literally 'reed-forest'), •consisting of upwards of 100 islands, and upwards of 40 sq. M. in area, now extends before the traveller, and is intersected by the broad artificial channel of the Nieuice Merxvede. This ^ver- drovken land' (comp. p. 139), once a smiling agricultural tract, was totally swallowed up by an inundation on Nov. 18th, 1421 ; no fewer than 72 wealthy market towns and villages were destroyed, and 100,000 persons perished. The ruin of the Huis Merwede, a solitary and venerable tower, is now the only relic of a human habitation in this desolate scene. The inhabitants of the long, straggling village on the slope of the embankment on the r., over which the road to Gorcum passes, obtain a livelihood by collecting the produce of these islands, consisting of hay, willows, reeds for thatching, and rushes for the manufacture of mats. 1. Dordrecht (Bellevue, at the steamboat-pier; Lion d'Or). usually called Dort by the natives , with 23,840 inhab. . one of the oldest towns in Holland, was a powerful and opulent com- mercial city in the middle ages , and was separated from the mainland by the calamitous inundation already mentioned. Its situation stiU renders it an important mercantile place. The har- bour formed by the river (which will be crossed by a bridge for the line to Rotterdam) in front of the city admits sea-going vessels of heavy tonnage. The extensive rafts floated down the Rhine from the forests of Germany are generally broken up here, and the wood is then sawn by the windmills. Timber forms the staple commodity of Dordrecht. The principal Church, a Gothic structure supported by 56 pil- lars, with a lofty and conspicuous tower, was consecrated in 1339, and contains a handsome marble pulpit executed in 1756. The 20* 308 Route 40. DORDRECHT. fine old carved choir-stalls are unfortunately falling to decay. A ■well executed screen of brass separates the choir from the nave, A simple monument here is sacred to the memory of Schotel (d. 1838), a celebrated painter of sea-pieces. The church is in a good state of preservation, and its chaste simplicity is impressive. Some valuable ecclesiastical vessels are preserved here. The Stadhuis, a modern building, contains six pictures of no great artistic merit: Last Supper, hy Blockland (^A. 1583); Burn- ing of the new church, with good portraits, painted in 1568 by Doudxjn; Samson and Delilah, hy Honthorst (d. 1662); the Synod of Dordrecht, by Hoogstraeten, a picture of historical value only; Siege of Dordrecht by John Duke of Brabant in 1418, and siege of Dordrecht by the French in 1813, by Schouman and Schotel. Dordrecht occupies an important page in the hi.Mory of Holland , ard especially in that of the Protestant faith. In 1575 the lirst assembly of the independent states of Holland Avas held here, and resulted in the foundation of the Republic of the United Dutch Provinces. A century later William III., Prince of Orange, was appointed stadtholder , commander-in-chief and ad- miral of Holland for life by the States at Dordrecht. In 161S and 1619 the Dutch Protestant theologians assembled at a great Synod at Doidrecht, with a view to reconcile the adherents of the austere tenets of Calvin ('Go- marists") with those of the milder doctrines of Zwingli CArminians). In 1610 the latter had addressed a 'Remonstrance', to the States General (whence their name 'Remonstrants', which is still employed), of which the- lullowing were the principal propositions: "God hat ordained that all be- lievers shall be saved ; man requires divine grace, but it does not operate irresistibly; it is impossible to fall away from grace'. Although these doc- trines were now to be discussed, the Calvinists who formed the great ma- jority of the assembly refused to give the Remonstrants a hearing and unan- imously condemned them. Deputies from England and Scotland, Germany and Switzerland had been invited by the Calvinists to assist at the meeting, which lasted seven months in all, and is said to have cost the States a mil- lion florins. The resolutions of the synod were long regarded as the law of the Dutch Reformed Church. The hall in which the assembly met has recently been demol- ished. The house, termed Kloveniers Doekn (House of the Ar- quebusiers), is situated in one of the narrow old streets. Ar> apartment on the ground-floor contains a chimney-piece with fine sculpturing. The old Gate, on the great dyke, erected in 1618, bears the inscription : 'Pax civium et concordia tutissime urbem muniunt\ The eminent painter Ary ScbefTer, to whom a monument was NEW YSSEL. 41. Route. 309 erected here in 1S6'2 . vras a native of Dordrecht. The statue was designed by Mezzera. who declined to accept any remunera- tion for this tribute to the memory of his friend. The right hand of the master grasps his brush, while the left with the pa- lette rests on a design of the bust of his mother. The inscription records the dates of his birth (1795) and death (at Argenteuil in France, 1858). At Dordrecht the steamer quits the broad channel of the Maas and enters a narrow arm termed the Menvede (p. 307). A rail- way to Rotterdam . crossing the Maas and Leek . is in course of construction. r. Alblasserdam. with a new octagonal church, possesses con- siderable ship-building yards, the property of the Brothers Smit. the wealthiest shipbuilders in Holland. r. Kinderdijk, where the Merwede unites with the Leek and again takes the name of Maas. From this point to Rotterdam see p. 303. 41. From Arnheim to Leeuwarden and Groningen. Pauper Colonies of Frederiksoord, Wilhelmiiieoord, and Willemsoord. Railway from Arnheim to Meppel in 3i|2 hrs.; fares 5 fl. 15, 4 fl. 15, 2 fl. 60 c; thence to Leemcarden in 2 — Qs^ hrs.; fares 3 fl. 30, 2 fl. 65, 1 fl. 65 c. ; to Groningen in 3— 33;4 hrs.; fares 3 fl. 80, 3 fl. 5, 1 fl. ^:) c. — Steamboat from Amsterdam to Harlingen and branch-line thence to 2wolle (see below), see E. 42. The railway from Arnheim to Ziitphen traverses an uninter- esting district and passes several unimportant stations. It runs nearly parallel with the Yssel, which it reaches near Ziitphen. The Xeir Yssel (pron ice'l) is that ramification of the Rhine which di- verges towards the X., about 3 M. above Arnheim. This channel was con- structed 1800 years ago by the Roman general Drusus (Fossa Drusiana), stepson of the Emp. Augustus, extending as far as Doesborgh, where it uni- tes with the 'Old Yssel' (Xabalia). A direct mode of communication be- tween the Rhine and the Zuiderzee was thus alibrded. The inhabitants of the banks of the Old Yssel, which rises among the moors of Miinster, and falls into the Zuiderzee at Kampen, were Salic Francs, the bitterest and most inveterate enemies of the Romans. They made frequent and successful incursions into the dominions of the Romans and their allies , and after- wards took possession of the island of the Batavi, the Betuwe of the pre- sent day (p. 301). They subsequently became so powerful that they under- 310 Route dJ. ZiJTPHEN. From Amheim took piratical expeditions as far as the Mediterranean, where they pillaged Syracuse and many other wealthy places. Doesborgh (Ilof Geldria), an ancient fortified town at the union of the Old and Xew Yssel, was the birthplace of Admiral van Kinsbergen (p. 273). In 1585 it was captured and pillaged by the Spaniards. I« 1813 it was taken from the French by the Prussians under Gen. v. Oppen. Zutphen ( Keizerskroon ; Hollandsche Tuin; Zwaan) , situated at the confluence of the Berkel and the Yssel , is a strongly for- tified town with 15,315 inhab., wliich was taken by the Prus- sians in 1813, on the day after the capture of Doesborgh. The most important edifice is the Church of St. Walburgis, dating from the 12th cent. It contains a venerable brazen font, a Gothic candelabrum of gilded iron, half-relief sculptures on the pulpit, old monuments of the Counts of Ziitphen, and a handsome modern^ monument of the Yan Heeckeren family, all of which are worthy of inspection. The tower dates from 1600, its predecessors having been destroyed by lightning. The Wijnhuis Tower, with its two galleries , contains a good set of chimes. The timber which is floated in rafts from the Black Forest down the Rhine and Ysset forms the chief article of commerce at Ziitphen. About 2i,'2 31. to the X. of Ziitphen! is situated the agricultural colony of Nederlandsch Mettray, a Protest, establishment founded in 1851 for the education of poor boys and foundlings. It was first instituted by a M. Schutter, who presented 16,000 fl. for the purpose, and has since been libe- rally supported and extended by private contributions. The estate of liysselty about 50 acres in area, has been purchased by the society, and upwards of 150 boys are educated here (about 12 in each house). Those who wish to become acquainted with the interesting arrangements of the establishment will find good accommodation at the '■Laatste Stuiver' Inn. A railway diverging from Zutphen to Salzhergen (p. 319), a station on the Emden-Hamm line, allords the most] direct communication between N. Germany and the cities of Amsterdam and Rotterdam; see Baedekers Rhine and Xorihtrn Germamj. Beyond Zutphen the train crosses the Yssel. Deventer (Engel; Moriaan), situated on the frontier of Guel- ders and Over-Yssel (i. e. 'beyond the Yssel"), is a clean and prosperous fortified town with 17,521 inhab., the birthplace of the celebrated philologist Jacob Gronovius. The handsome old church of St. Lehuinus is surmounted by a remarkably fine Gothic tower. The crypt beneath the church is very ancient. The Stad- huis contains a good picture by Terburg. An old cauldron is shown in the public weighing-house, in which a coiner is said to have been boiled alive in 1434. The town possesses several to Groningen. ZWOLLE. 41. Route. 311 flourishing iron-foundries and carpet- manufactories. The chief commodity for which Deventer enjoys a Dutch , if not an Euro- pean celebrity, is its honey-cakes, a species of gingerbread, of vhich tons are annually sent to many different parts of Holland. The royal chateau of Loo, the favourite residence of William I. and of the present king also, is situated near Apeldoorn, a large and wealthy village with J1,3U2 inhab. — A treaty between Prussia and Holland was concluded here after the brief campaign of 178S (p. 302). Stat, Diepenveen lies IV2 ^^- ^^^^ ^he station. Olst , with 4000 inhab., is situated on the Yssel. ZwoUe ( Zeven Provincien ; Keizerskroon ; Heerenloyement), the capital of the province of Over-Yssel, with 20.331 inhab., is si- tuated on the Zwarte Water, a small river which falls into the Zuiderzee. The Gothic church of St. Michael contains a fine carved pulpit. The organ is one of the best in Holland. Thomas a Kempis, the pious author of the -Imitation of Christ, which has been translated into almost every known language, lived for lU years in a monastery on the Agnetenherg , where he died in 1471, in his 92nd year. This eminence, 3 M. from Zwolle, is still the burial-place of the wealthier inhabitants of Zwolle. The ground in the immediate vicinity of the town is so saturated with u;oistiire, that a grave cannot be dug without immediately being rilled with water. A broken tombstone here is said to be that of Thomas a Kempis , w ho was born at Kempen , a town on the Lower Rhine (p. 300), whence he derived his name. Gerard Terburg, the greatest of the Dutch genre-painters, v.as born at Zwolle in 1608, and died in 1681 at Deventer, where he filled the office of burgomaster. He was a great traveller, and practised his art in Germany, Italy and Spain, Most of the actors in the scenes he depicts belong to the upper ranks, and he rarely descends to the low subjects which delighted .Tan Steen and Ostade. His finest works are conversation-pieces , in which a lady with a dress of white satin is frequently introduced. His colouring is clear, harmonious and silvery. Several small stations ; then Meppel (Heerenlogementjj a town with 7717 inhab., and calico and sail-cloth manufactories. The line to Leeuwarden here turns to the 1., that to Groningen to the r. The Leeuwarden Line continues to run towards the N. 5 it crosses the Drentsche-Hoofd-Kanol , and reaches stat. Nijenveen and Steenwijk. The Pauper Colonies of Frederiksoord , Wilhelmineoord and Willeinscord lie to the N. E. of Steerucijk. The society wc s founded during 312 Route 41. IIEERENVEEN. From Arnheim the famine of 1S16 and 1S17, when the paupers in Holland bad become an extremely numerous class. No fewer than 20,000 members speedily subscri- bed their names, each of them paying 2 tl. 60 c. annually, and the first ex- periments were made in 1818. The number of paupers now supported here amounts to nearly 3000. Each adult, if able-bodied and willing to work, is provided with a small cottage, two acres of land, a cow, a pig, and occa- sionally 6—10 sheep. There are also other excellent arrangements, by means of which the majority of the colonists are rendered entirely self-supporting after the first outlay has been made. Those who prove idle or dishonest are sent to the penal colony of Otnmerschans (see below). The houses art- visited almost daily by the superintending officials, and the strictest discipline is everywhere observed. The road from Frederiksoord to the orphan and mendicant establish- ments at Veenhuizen leads past the Agricultural School of Wateren, founded by the same society, situated 6 51. from Frederiksoord, and 9 M. from Veenhuizen. The object of this institution is to provide a superior kind of education for the best conducted and most able of the colonists' children, with a view to qualify them for official posts in the colony. About 72 pupils are here instructed in botany, chemistry, mathematics, mo- dern languages etc., in addition to the more elementary branches of edu- cation. Each pupil receives an allotment of land, which he is permitted to cultivate according to his own taste. On attaining their 21st year the pu- pils are either appointed as overseers in the colony, or permitted to seek J heir fortunes elsewhere. The Colonies at Veenhuizen, 9 M. from Wateren, and the same distance from Assen (p. 313), consist of three*extensive buildings, about 'vj M. apart, one of which is destined for the reception of orphans, the other two for mendicants. Another similar colony is that of Ommerschans , 9 M. to the S. E. of 2Iep2^el, in the province of Over-Yssel. The latter is partly employed as a penal settlement fur the idle and the disoiderly, partly as a reformatory for beggars. Ommerschans., a ruined fortress situated on a fertile spot in the midst of a barren moor, was fitted up for the purpose in 1821. Weavers, smiths, carpenters, tailors and other artisans ply their trades here, under the strict supervision of their overseers and custodians. In order to prevent the escape of the inmates , the entire establishment is surrounded by a broad canal, and is also encircled by a statT of 25 watchmen or senti- nels posted at intervals of i|4 M. from each other. The number of mendicants iiere is 2290. The population of all the colonies of the society amounts to nearly 11.000. The average cost of their maintenance is 75 fl. per annum for each person. The number of subscribers has greatly fallen oft' within •the last few years , and the colonies are now partially suppoi-ted by go- vernment. Beyond Steenwijk the line turns to the N.W.. and traverses an unattractive district of marsh and pasture-land. Next important Stat. Heerenveen, where a direct line now in course of construc- tion diverges to Harlingen (p. 316). To the 1. are several lakes, the largest of which is termed the Sneeker Meer. Several small stations : then tc Groningen. LEEUWARDEN. 41. Route. '6V6 Leeuwarden f*-\ieuu?e Doelen: Beugelaer), the ancient capital of the Frisians, %vith 24.866 inhab.. possessing a fine old town-hall and a handsome modern court-house. The museum of Frisian antiquities is also worthy of mention. The old palace of the go- vernors of Friesland, members of the Nassau-Diez family, and an- cestors of the royal family of Holland, is an insignificant edifice. Leeuwarden is one of the most important corn and cattle marts in Holland. The Frisian women , especially those of this town, enjoy a great reputation for personal beauty. Costume, see p. 281. The Frisians are the only Germanic tribe which has preserved its name unaltered since the time of Tacitus. They are remarkable for their physi- cal strength, their bravery and love of independence. Charlemagne entered into a treaty with this remarkable race, by which they agreed to sub- mit to the rulers he should place over them, on condition that they should govern in accordance with Frisian laws. That monarch caused a collection of these laws to be made, and they still exist in the Asegabuch in the old Frisian language, as well as in Latin. — Their language diflers considerably from that of the rest of Holland, most of the roots being from the Anglo- Saxon, and often closely resembling English. The Meppel and Groningen Line at first turns towards the E.. and follows the course of the small Oude Diep. At stat. Hcogeveen the stream is quitted , and the line turns to the N. Beyond stat. Beilen the Oranje Can(d is crossed. The following sta^ Assen (Romer) , a small town with 5000 inhab. . is the capital of the Province of Drenthe. The tumuli or 'giants* graves' in this neighbourhood are objects of great interest to the antiquarian. The huge stones which mark these spots recal those of Stonehenge. Tacitus (Germ. 37) mentions them as the monu- ments of a great and powerful people. Similar mouments found in most Celtic - Cimbrian countries have probably all the same crigin. Most of these tumuli, which were oiiginally covered with a pavement of flint, have lost their original form. Excavations have brought to light cinerary urns, battle-axes and hatchets of flint, etc. A model of the tumuli, as well as many of the relics themselves . may be inspected in the Museum of Antiquities at Leyden (p. 247). — Assen lies 15 M. to the S. of Groningen, and 27 M. to the N. E. of Meppel. The pauper and mendicant colonies (p. 312), which should if possible be visited, are most easily reached from the canal or diligence route between Gron- ingen and Meppel. 314 Route 41. GRONINGEN. Beyond Assen the line follows the course of the Oude Aa, at seme distance from the stream ; several small stations ; then Groningen (*Doclen ; ?\ieuu'e Munster ; Cafe Forman , at the back of the S. wing of the Stadhuis), the capital of the province of the same name, with 32, '299 inhab. (GOOO Rom. Cath.) , lies at the junction of the Drenthesche Aa, or Brentsche Viep, and the Hunse. The latter is termed Reiddiep from this point to its mouth, and being converted into a canal, is navigable for large sea-going vessels. Rape-seed and grain are the great staple com- modities of tlie place, and many of the merchants of the town and the farmers of the neighbourhood are very wealthy. The Breede Markt, or market-place , is one of the most spa- cious ill Holland, The Church of St. Martin situated here is a line Gothic structure with a lofty tower (432 ft.), erected after a fire in 1627, Opposite to it is the Stadhuis, erected in 1810. The (Rom. Cath.) Broederkerk contains two tolerable altar-pieces by Be Keen. The University (290 stud.), founded in 1614, possesses an admirable natural history museum, which is established in the handsome academy buildings with their fine cloisters, opposite to the Rom, Cath, church, A collection of Germanic antiquities is in course of formation. The Beaf and Bumh Asylum, supported chiefly by voluntary contributions, educates 150 pupils. Public examinations on Wednesdays, 11 — 12 o'clock. In the ox-market, in front of the building, a statue to the founder Guyot has been erected. The Fortifications, constructed by the celebrated engineer Gen. Coehcorn in 1698, are still carefully maintained. The gateways are handsome and substantial structures, — The Harbour generally presents a busy scene. Extensive magazines have recently been erected on the W. side, — The projecting corner of a street in the vicinity, termed the ^oude kijk in't gat straat' (i, e. 'the old peep into the open street"), is adorned with the head of a bearded man , with the inscription 'Ick kijk noch inf (I still peep into it"). It commemorates a siege in 1672, when the besiegers were « cmpelled to retreat, as they were unable to prevent supplies being brought into the town by the Reiddiep. The inscription signifies, that as long as the channel is clear and unobstructed, no real danger from besiegers need be apprehended. 315 42. From Amsterdam to Harlingen and Groningen. steamboat from Amsterdam t>'ien\ve Stads-Herberg , p. 258) twice daily to Harlingen in 6';: his.: restaurant on board. Railway thence tO' Oroningen via Franeker and Leeuicarden in 2^ t hrs. The steamboat steers to the E. for the first lialf-hour, then at the lighthouse on the S. E. extremity of N. Holland turns to the N., and passes the island of Marken, on which another lighthouse stands. The towers of Monnikendam , Edam and Hoorn (p. '288} rise in the distance towards the W. In 2 hrs. the steamer reaches Enkhuizen (Valk), once a flourishing town with 40,000 inhab., who at the beginning of the 17th cent, posseskd a fleet of up- wards of 400 herring -fishing vessels. The population is now 5449 only, and the number of fishing smacks has dwindled town to seven. The Stadhuis , erected in 1588, and the AVesterkerk are handsome buildings , recalling the former prosperity of the place. Externally the town with its harbour, church-towers, and handsome gateway half hidden by trees has an important ap- pearance. Paul Potter, one of the greatest Dutch painters of animals, was born at Enkhuizen in 1625 (d. at Amsterdam in 1654). He went at an early age to the Hague, where he was patronised by ^he Prince of Orange, and after- wards settled at Amsterdam. His career was brief, but most laborious and successful. In his extraordinary fidelity to nature he stands preeminent. His cattle often appear to stand forth in living reality. The steamer alter quitting Enkhuizen proceeds to the N. E. The lighthouse of Stavoren, rising on the extreme W. promontory of Friesland, soon becomes conspicuous. The ancient Stavoren, the city of the heathen god Stavo, the Thor of the Frisians, is now an insignificant place with 570 inhab. only. It was once the residence of the Frisian monarchs, and at a subsequent period a wealthy and populous commercial free city, the third in the cele- brated Hanseatic League. Its vessels are said to have been the first which passed through the Sound , and its naval enterprises- prospered as early as the 12th cent. Old chroniclers relate that the citizens of this favoured spot were in the habit of employing pure gold for many purposes to which the baser metals are usu- ally applied. Thus the bolts on the doors of their houses, the rivets and fastenings of their yachts and pleasure-boats , and the weather-cocks on their churches are said frequently to Lave been 316 Route 42. HARLINGEN. made of that precious metal. The town is now a very poor place, not even possessing the means of rescuing its handsome church- tower from the ruin which threatens it. The decay of the place is attributed almost exclusively to the fact that the harbour is gradually becoming filled with sand and thus rendered useless. The Vrouwensand , a broad grass-grown sandbank in front of the har- bour, derives its name from the tradition that the wife of a weal- thy merchant once desired one of her husband's captains to bring tier from abroad 'the most precious thing in the world". The worthy Dutch mariner, in conscientious fulfilment of the request, accordingly brought back a cargo of wheat from Danzig! The lady, indignant at what' she regarded as the captain's stupidity, ordered the valuable freight to be thrown overboard at the mouth of the harbour. This act of wanton waste ultimately caused the ruin of the proud and luxurious city. The grain is said to have taken TOOt, and to have formed the foundation of the sandbank, which is daily increasing in extent and constitutes an insuperable barrier to the entrance of the once excellent haven. The steamer now skirts the W. coast of Friesland. The lofty tower of the small town of Hindeloopen is a conspicuous object in the landscape. Farther N. lies the town of Workum. Harlingen (Heerenlogement) , where the traveller now disem- barks, an important harbour of the Zuiderzee, with 9913 inhab., occupies the site of a city which was entirely swallowed up by an inundation in 1134. In 1566 the surrounding district was again devastated and depopulated by another encroachment of the sea, in consequence of which the Spanish governor Eohles de Billy caused the entire province to be surrounded by lofty dykes. The grateful inhal itants, in commemoration of this important service, erected a statue to the governor, termed the Stenen Man , which is still to be seen on the sea-wall near the town. — Steamers affording tolerable passengers' accommodation ply regularly from Harlingen to London, Hull, Leith etc. The Railway journey hence to Leeuwarden is monotonous, presenting the usual Dutch characteristics — extensive pastures intersected by canals . a high road paved with 'klinkers' and bordered by rows of trees, neat country-houses, substantial farm- buildings, and fields and gardens bounded by ditches instead of ■walls or hedges. The jawbones of whales erected in the meadows FRANEKER. 42. Route. 317 are lor the benefit of the cattle, which may occasionally be seen rubbing themselves against them. The first important station is Franeker (^HeerenlogementJ, the seat of an university founded in 1585, but suppressed by Napoleon in 1811. The savants- VitringajHeineccius^ Schultens, Hemsterhuis, Valkenaer, etc. once taught here. The traveller should on no account omit to see the greatest curiosity of the place, an astronomical model which shows, all the motions of the planets, the sun and the moon, with the utmost scientific accuracy. It was constructed by Else Eisinga^ a simple burgher of Franeker, in 1774 — 81. Leeuvcarden, and thence to Groningen, see p. 313. 43. From Groningen to Emden and Rheine. Railway to meet the Emden-Rheine line completed as far as Xieuwe Schans: the remaining portion will also shortly be opened. Steamboat and Barge daily about 8 a. m. by canal from Groningen to Btlfzyl^ both performing the journey in Z—2^\i hrs. (fares 1 ll. or 60 c). The former is preferable in fine, the latter in rainy weather. Touters for the barge or ^schuiC generally lie in wait for travellers at the Steentilpoort. Steamboat from Delfzyl to Emden once daily in l'J4 hr. (fare20Sgr., i. c. 1 fl. 17 c, or 2 s.). Steamboat from Emden to Norderney (an island much frequented as a sea-bathing place, see Baedeker's X. Germany) in 6 hrs.. fares I2I3 or 1 Tblr. ; to Borkum in 4 hrs. — Railway from Emden to Rheine in 5 hrs. The Damsterdiep , the winding canal traversed by the steam- boat and barge , intersects a long succession of uninteresting pastures and gardens, diversified with an. occasional farm-house or windmill. The stations at which the boats touch are Halfwege and Appingadam , the latter a small ship -building place. Near Delfzyl are several large manufactories of bricks and draining-tiles. Delfzyl (De Bears, also the steamboat-office, at the E. gate, tolerable), a small fortified harbour near the influx of the Ems into the N. Sea, is an unattractive place, where however the traveller wiU probably be detained for an hour or more before the steamer starts for Emden. A walk on the ramparts is re- commended. The Dollar t, a bay 6 M. in breadth at the mouth of the Ems, was formed by a calamitous inundation in 1277, occasioned by the waters of the river having been confined for a considerable period by ice, and suddenly bursting their barrier on the approach 318 Route 43. EMDEN. From Groningen •of spring. Thirty-three rofulous villages were submerged by this iippalling catastrophe, and most of the inhabitants perished in the icy flood. During the two following centuries the encroachment of the sea steadily increased , but new embankments have since been constructed, and a considerable extent of valuable land is gradually being reclaimed. As the vessel crosses the bay several •villages are conspicuous on the K. Frisian coast. Emden (*Bdrse, by the Rathhaus - bridge , R. and B. 221/2, A, 5 Sgr. ; *W€is3es Haus, opp. the Rathhaus; *Prinz von Preussen. — 5 Silbergroschen = 6 pence) is in the Prussian dominions, and passengers' luggage is examined here. The town, with 12,490 inhab., was a free city of the Empire from 1595 to 1744; it belonged to Prussia till 1804, then to Holland till 1814, after- wards to Hanover, and since 1866 to Prussia again. It was for- merly situated on ihe Ems, which is now IY2 M. distant, but it is connected with the river and the sea by a canal, admitting vessels of considerable tonnage. The town, which possesses about 150 vessels, and was formerly the most important harbour of the Kingdom of Hanover (now annexed to Prussia) , still carries on a considerable traffic in oats , butter and cheese. The *Rathhaus, erected in 1576, is a rich example of the Architecture of the Renaissance, somewhat resembling the im- posing town-halls of Belgium. The tower, like that of the Hotel de Yille at B.ussels, from some unexplained cause does not rise from the centre of the structure. The Rathhaus contains a very interesting *Arsenal, with a collection of curious and valuable old fire-arms , said to have been captured by the inhabitants of Emden together with the vessel in which they were being con- veyed to England by order of Count Mansfeld (d. 1628), the celebrated general in the Thirty Years' War, who had taken them from his enemies and was about to send them to a place of safety. Three automata, a drummer, two knights engaged in a duel , and a watchman are shown by the guide. The council- chamber on the ground-floor contains portraits of George lY. of England, and of several Kings of Prussia. The tower affords a good survey of the environs (fee 5 Sgr.). The Grosse Kirche contains a monument in marble and ala- baster to the memory of Count Enno II. of E. Friesland. The Nat. Hist. Museum , tickets of admission to which are obtained to Eheine. LEER. 43. Route. 319 at the Rathhaus (5 Sgr.) . comprises a valuable collection of spe- cimens of amber. During the bathing-season numerous travellers, many of whom belong to the highest classes , pass through Emden on their -way to Norderney, a favourite -watering-place which was formerly fre- quently visited by the King of Hanover. From Emden by railway to Miinster in 6V2 ^rs., to Hanover in 11 hrs. The district traversed is far from attractive, consisting of vast tracts of marsh and moor, with an occasional village or farm on a green oasis of better soil. The underwood on these moors is generally set on fire in spring, in order to obtain the ashes as manure for buckwheat, which is extensively cultivated here. The suffocating smell of the smoke is sometimes perceived on these occasions in very distant parts of Germany (Heidelberg. Berlin, Vienna etc.). The railway runs on the E. bank of the tortuous Ems. which is seldom visible. The first important station is Leer (Prinz vcn Oranien; VoigVs Hotel), a thriving commercial town with 7000 inhab. , situated in the most fertile district of E. Friesland , at the confluence of the Leda and the Ems. The excellent wharf enables vessels to discharge their cargoes at the very doors of the magazines. Pnpenburg, the next important station, with 5000 inhab., is the largest of the 'Veen Colonies', and possesses several hundred vessels of considerable size which communicate with the sea by means of the Ems. Several small places, then Meppen (Biinger's Inn), the capital of the former Duchy of Meppen. Lm^en (Lang- schmidt) was formerly the chief town of the County of that name. The Ems is crossed here. Salzbergen, then Rheine (*Rail. Restaurant: * Hotel Schulze, in the town). From Rheine to Cologne and the Rhine, to Hanover and Berlin, to Bremen, Hamburg etc., see Baedeker's Rhine and X. Germany. INDEX, Aa, the 184. 314. Aal^t 143. Achel 143. Adei.seux 195. Adinkerke 24. Aelst 52. Ae^^chot 142. Agimont 154. Agnetenberg, the 311 Aigremont 186. Aix-la-Chapelle 143 192. Alblasserdam 309. Alkiiiaar 283. Ally-siir-Noye 203. Alost 52. Alteiiberg 191. Alzette, the 158. 197. j St. Amand 150. Amay 186. Ambir^ve , the 156. 195. 196. Amerongen 301. Ameyde 302. Amiens 201. Ampsin 186. Amstel, the 259. Amsterdam 257. Antiquarian Society 268. Arti et Aniicitiae Soc. 268. Botan. Garden 203. Buitenkant 261. Charitable Institutions 274. Churches 271. Collections, private 268. Diamondp'olishers 275. Docks 261. Dock Yard 262. Entrepot 262. Elhnolog. Museum 263. Exchange 270. Felix Meritis 268. Harbour 261. Industrial Palace 271. Linnaeus Garden 271. Amsterdam : Maatschappij tot Xut vant Algemeen 274. Metalen Kruis 270. ■'Museum 263. Museum of Art 271. -— van der Hoop 266. — Fodor 267. Xieuvve Kerk 272. Oude Kerk 278. ■Palace 268. Park 271. Plantazje 263. Private Collections 268. *Rembrandt's Statue 271. Schrevershoekstoren 261." Seamen'slnstitution 262 Stadhuis 269. Synagogues 273. Venders Statue 271. Weighing House 270. Westerkerk 273. Zeenianshop Society 270. Zeeman.shuis 262. ■Zoolog. Garden 263. Andeiine 187. Angleur 156. Anhee 153. Anna - PauIo%yna - Pol- der 284. Ans 167. Anseremme 154. Antwerp 110. Acadeniie des Beaux- Arts 115. St. Andrew 133. Augustines, Ch. of the 132. St. Antoine 132. Bonatical Garden 134. Boucheries 122. Bourse 134. •Cathedral 116. Citadel 136. Cite 133. Docks 135. Entrepot 136. Exchange 134. Fortifications 136. St. George 134. Guild Hall of the Ar- chers 121. Antwerp : Hotel de Ville 120. ■^St. Jacques 130. .Tesuits' Church 132. Leopold I. Statue 115. Maison Hanstiatique 136. Marche aux Poissons 135. ^•■Museum 122. Palace, Roval 134. •St. Paul 121. Place Verte 116. Quays 134. Rubens' House 134. — Statue 116. Teniers' Statue 115. Tlieatre 134. *Zoolog. Garden 134. Anzin 200. Apeldoorn 311. Appingadam 317. Ardennes , Forest of 155. Argenteau 179. Arlon 158. Arnheim 291. Arras 201. Assen 313. Assenet 191. Assesse 155. Ath 55. St. Aubert, Mont 31. Audeghem 52. Austruweel s. O&ter- ■weel. Ave-Capelle 24. Aye 156. 176. Baeleghem 52. Bas-Oha 187. Bath. Fort 138. Bavaux 156. Bavay 167. Beaufort, chat. 187. Beaumont - sur - Oise 204. Beauvais 204. INDEX. 321 Beek-Elsloo 184. Beemster 287. Beerze, the 184. Beilen 313. Belle-AUiance 103. Beloeil 55. 198. Belvaux. 156. Bennebroek 250. Berchem 109. Bergen 284. Bergen op Zoom 141. Berkel, the 310. Berlaer 142. Bertringen 158. Berwinne. the 180. Best 143. 184. Betzdorf 160. Bettingen 158. Betuwe, the 301. Beveland 139. Beveren 53. Beverst 143. Beverwijk 282. Biesbosch, the 307. Biezelinge 141. Eirtaix, chateau 155. Blai.c-Misseron 200. Blankenberg 7. Blerick 184'. Bloemendaal 255. Bodegraven 290. Boeq, the 153. Bois-du-Luc 144. Bois-le-Duc 143. Boisschot 142. Boitsfort 155. Bomal 156. Bommel 306. Bommeler Waard. the 306. sBosch 143. Bouchout 142. Boussoit 144. Boussu 200. Bouvigne 153. Bovan 204. Boves 203. Boxtel 143. 184. Bracquegnies 144. Braine-l'Alleud 99. Braine-le-Comte 144. Breda 184. Brederode 256. Breskens, Fort 139. BreteuU 203. Briel 223. Broek 276. Bruges 9. Academy 2»3. Be'guinage 22. Belfn- 17. Cathedral 11. Chapelle du Saint Sang 19. Cour des Princes 2*2. Craenenburg 18. Halles 17. 'Hospital St. John 14. Hotel de Ville IS. St. Jacques 22. Jerusalem, egl. de 31. Marche de Vendredi 9. *Notre Dame 13. Palais de Justice 19. "^St. Sauveur 11. Soeurs de charite, conv. 22. Stevin's Statue 17. Water Hall 18. Brumagne 137. Brussels 56. Abattoirs Si. Alice Verte 85. Ancienne Cour 69. Archives 75. Augustines, egl. des 81. Bank CG. Beguinaae, t'gl. du 81. Belliard'^s Statue 62. Blind Asylum 77. Bois de la Cambre 84. Botan. Garden 82. 'Boulevards 82. Cathedral 64. Champs de Manoeuvres S3. j Chapelle de I'Expiation ' T2. [ Coll. of Engravings 69. ''Colonne du Congres 67. i Custom House 85. I Ecole Industrielle 68. Baedekke's Belgium and Holland. 2nd Edit. j Brussels : j Ecole Ve'terinaire 84. j Eglise evange'lique SJ. Eglise du Sablon 72. I -Egmont and Hoorne"s j Monum. 7S. I Entrepot 85. Galerie Historique 71. ''Godfrey de Bouillon's Statue 67. Grand Sablon 74. Grande Place 78. 'Guild Houses 79. Halle au Pain 78. Hospice Pacheco 34. Hospital St. Jean 82. Hotel de laMonnaieSl- -Hotel de Ville 77. St. Jacques surCouden- berg 67. St. Joseph 83. Laeken So. Library, Roval 68. March^ Convert 80. -'Martyrs' Monument Si. *3Ionument of Counts Eg- mont and Hoorne 70. ''Museum 69. Musce Modern e 62. '— de Peinture 69. * — de Sculptures 62. '- Wiertz S3. Nat. Hist. Collection 71. Notre Dame 82. 'N'^otre Dame de la Cha- pelle 75. — des Victoires 72. Observatory 83. Palais du Roi 62. — Ducal 62. — du Due d'Aremberg 72. — de I'Industrie 63. — de Justice 74. — de la Nation 63. "Park 61. "Passage &"^'. Petits Carmes, les 73. Porte de Hal 76. Quartier Leopold 83. Shooting Gallerv S3. Theatres 58. 80.' University 71. Vandermaelen's etabl. geogr. 34. Verhaegen's Statue 71. Vesales' Statue 83. "Zoolog. Garden 83. Buiksloot 276. Bunde 184. 21 322 INDEX. Burg 287. Busigny 205. Cadzand 24. Calais 54. Calcum 298. Calloo, Fort 138. Calmpthoud 141. Camperdown 284. Candia 298. Cappellen 141. 158. Caster 180. Castricum 283. Centre, le 144. Charlemont 154. Charleroi 145. Chastre 155. Chateau de Masures 189. Chatelet 146. Chatelineau 146. Chaudfontaine 189. Chamiy 205. Chene'e 188. Che'ratte 179. Chertal 179. Chiraay 146. Chokier 185. Chiney 155. Clermont 203. Clervaux 197. Cleve 300. Colmar-Berg 197. Cologne 298. 300. Colonster 176. Comblain - au - Pont 156. Comblain -la -Tour 156. Comines 27. Compiegne 205. Condroz 156. Contich 109. Conz 160. Coo 195. Corbie 201. Cortemark 23. Couillet 146. Courtrai 25. Cranenburg 304. Crefeld 300. Creil 204. Crevecoeur 153. Crommenie 279. Cuesmes 205. Culenborg 302. Damme 23. Damsterdiep 317. Dave 153. Delfshaven 227. Delft 227. Delfzyl 317. Demer, the 142. Denderleeuw 52. Dendermonde 52. Dendre,the52.55. etc. St. Denis 204. St.Denis-Bovessel55. Deurne 184. Deventer 310. Deynze 24. 25. Diekirch 197. Diemermeer, the 288. Diepenbeek 143. Diepenveen 311. Diest 142. Dinant 153. Dintel. the 185. Dixmuiden 23. Doel 138. Doesborgh 310. Dolhain 190. Dollart, the 317. Dommel, the 184. Dommeldange 197. Doom 296. Doorenwaard 301. Doornik s. Tournai. Dordrecht 307. DordscheKil,the 141. Dormagen 300. Don 307. Douai 200. Drentsche Diep , the 314. Driebergen 290. Duffel 109. Duisburg 298. Duiveland 140. Dunkirk 24. Duno 301. Diisseldorf 298. Dyle, the 106. 109. Ecaussines 144. Echt 184. Echternach 197. Edam 288. Ede 290. 301. Eeckeren 141. Eessen 23. Egmond 284. Eierland. the 287. Eindhoven 143. 184. Eineburg, the 191. Elst 301. Elten 297. 299. Emden 318. Emmaburg, the 191. Emmerich 297. Ems, the 319. Endegeest 249. Enghien 52. 56. Enghien-les- Bains 204. Engihoul, chateau 186. Engis 186. Enkhuizen 288. 315. Enouf 188. Ensival 189. Erfprins, Fort 286. Ermont 204. Erquelines 206. Erwetegem 52. Escaut s. Schelde. Esneux 156. Esschen 141. INDEX. 323 Etel 143. Ettelbriick 197. Etten 141. Eupen 191. Eygenbilsen 143. Eysden 180. Falruignoul 154. Famenne, the 156. Feignies 205. Ferdinand. Fort 138, Fijenoord 303. Flamsch-Hoofd 53. Fiemalle 185. Flenu, Bassin du 198 Fleurus 152. Florefife 146. Flushing 139. Forest 144. Fraipont 189. Frameries 205. Franchimont 193. Franconville 204. Francorchamps 196. Fianeker 317. Frankenberg s. Fran- chimont. Frasne 149. Frederiksoord, Pauper- Colony 311. Frene 153. Freyr 154. Frichemont 105. Fumes 24. Gammerages 52. Geldermalsen 143. Geldern 300. Geleen 184. Oembloux 155. 167. Genappe 145. 148. Geul s. Gcehl. Gheel 109. Ohent 31. Academy 45. Ste. Anna 35. ' Artevelde's Statue 50. Ghent : -St. Bavon 37. ' Beguinaae 46. '' Belfry 35. Botanical Garden 50. Boucherie 44. Casino 4S. Cathedral 37. Chapel of St. Macaire 35. Citadel 34. 43. Coupure 4S. Cour des Princes 34. Ecole des Arts 37. — du Genie 37. Episcopal Palace 38. Van Eyck's House 50. Gravenkasteel 44. ' HOtel de Ville 36. St. Jacques 50. Kauter 50. Library 5U. Maison de Force 47. Mamraelokker 36. Marche aux Poisssons 44. — de Vendredi 48. *St. Michael 41. Nat. hist. Museum 37. St. Nicholas 38. Oudeburg 44. Palais de Justice 43. * St. Pierre 42. Place d'Armes 50. Skipper House 41. Theatre 43. University 37. 50. Zoolog. Garden 51. St. Ghislain 199. Ghyvelde 24. Gilze-Rijen 184. Gingelom 167. Gits' 24. Givet 154. Glons 143. Goch 300. Godinne 153. Goebesmiihle 197. Gcehl Valley, the 191. Goes 139. Gorinchem 306. Gorkum 306. Gosselies 145. Gouda 289. Goumont 102. IGouvry 197. iGrammont 52. ! Grand-Halleux 197. I s'Graveland 275. I sGravenhage 231. 'iGrieth 299. Grimlinghausen 290. Groenendael 86. 155. Groesbeek 304. I Groningen 314. Grupont 157. Guelderland 291. Haarlem 249. I Haarlemer Meer . the 256. Habaye-la-Neuve 158. Haerlebeke 25. Hague, the 230. Binnenhof 232. Buitenhuf 231. Cannon Foundry 239. Collection of Coins etc. 238. Esplanade 239. Fish Market 238. Groote Kerk 239. Huis in t' Bosch 239. Library 238. Marine Ministerie 237. Museum 233. New Church 239. Palace. Roval 237. == Park 239. Vijver 231. William'sL Statue 237. William's IL Statue 231. Hainault 28. 198. Haine. the 144. Hal 56. 144. Halfweg 257. 317. Ham, castle 205. Hamoir 156. Han sur Lesse 156. iHandzaeme 23. Harderwijk 297. Harlingen 316. Harmelen 290. Hartenkamp 250. Hartjesberg 292. 21* 324 INDEX. Harwich 110. 222. Hasselt 142. Hastiere 154. Hautmont 205. Haversin 156. Hazebrouck 55. Hedel 143. Heerenveen 312. Heidenoord 292. Heimenberg. the 301. Helchteren 143. Helder, the 286. Helenaveen 184. Hellevoetsluis 140. Helmond 184. Hennegau s. Hainault. Herbesthal 191. Herblay 204. Herenthals 109. ilergenrad 192. ilerinnes 52. Hermalle 180. 186. Herstal 179. sHertogenbosch 143. Hesbaye, the 167. Heteren 301. lleule 24. Heyst 8. Hevst - op - den - Berg 142. Hillegommerbeck 249. Hilversum 275. Hindeloopen 316. Hoegne. the 192. Hoesselt 143. Hollandsch Diep, the 140. llomberg 299. Homme, Y 156. Hondboschje, the2 Moerdijk 141. 185. Moisnil 187. Monfat 153. Monnikendam 288. Mons 198. Mont Jardin 195. Mont-St-Aubert 31. Mont-St-Guibert 151. 155. Mont-St-Jean 99. Montescourt 205. Montmorency 204. Moordrecht 289. Moortzeele 52. Moresnet 191. Moselle, the 160. Moulin s 153. 326 INDEX. Mouscron 2S. Muiden 275. Miilheim 299. Munsterbilsen 143. Naarden 275. Nameche 187. Namiir 146. Naninne 155. Napoleon, Fort 6. Natoye 155. Navagne 180. Nazareth 25. Nechin 28. Nederheim 143. Neerpelt 143. Neerwinden 166. Nessonvaux 189. Nethe, the 109. 142. Neufchateau 158. Neufmoustier 186. Neuss 300. Neuville 186. St. Nicolas 53. Nieschheim 28. Nieupoit 24. Nieuwe Diep 285. Nieuwerkerk 288. Nieuwe Schans 317. Nieuw-Oosteinde 242. Nieuwpoort 302. Nijenveen 311. Nivelles 144. Noordwi j kerhout 249 . Norderney 317. Northern Canal , the Great 276. 282.284. Noye, the 205. Noyon 205. Nuenen 184. Nymegen 304. Oberhausen 297. Obourg 144. Oetiingen 160. Chain 100. Oise, the 204. Oisterwijk 184. Ollingen 160. 01st 311. St. Omer 55. Ommerschans 312. Ooltgensplaat , Fort 140. Oorderen 138. Oostende 139. Oosterbeek 301. Ooster-Schelde , the 140. Oosterweel, Fort 138. Oostkerke 24. Opheusden 301. Oranje-Caiial,the 313. Orp-le-Grand 167. Orsoy 299. Ostend 1. Osterath 300. Ottignies 155. Oude Aa, the 314. Oude Diep. the 313. Oude-God 109. Oudenaerde 24. Oudenburg 6. Oudeschild 287. Oudewater 289. Ougree 178. 185. Ourthe, the 168. 188. Overschie 227. Overveen 256. Over-Yssel 310. Pampus 276. Pannerden 298. Papelotte 101. Papenburg 319. Paris 204. Pepinster 189. Pervet 167. Pervyse 24. Petersberg, the 182. Petrusbach, the 158. Petten 284. Philippsland 140. Philippeville 146. Piet Gyzenbrug 249. Planchenois 104. Plasschendael 6. Poilvache 153. Poix 157. PontSte.Maxence205. Pontoise 204. Poperinghe 28. Poulseur 156. Precy 204. Profondeville 153. Purmerend 288. Quatrebras 149. St. Quentin 205. Que'ry 205. Quie'vrain 200. Kaismes 200. Ramillies 166. Ramscapelle 24. Rebecq-Rognon 52. Recogne 158. Rees 299. Rehberg, the 292. Reiddiep 314. Remouchamps 195. Renais 24. Renkum 301. Rheine 319. Rhenen 301. Rhine, the 249. 293. 301. etc. Rhisne 155. Rijswijk 230. Rilland 141. Riviere 153. Rixensart 155. Roanne 195. Robermont 175. Rochefort 156. Roermond 184. Roeux 201. Ronheide 192. INDEX. 327 Koodt 160. Roosendaele 24. Roozendaal 141. Rosoux 167. Rosselaere 24. Rotte. the 223. Rotterdam 222. 'Bcoiupjes 224. Botan. Garden 227. Eovmans Museum 225. Erasmus' Statue 224. ExcLacge 225. Hoogendorp's Statue 226. Hospital 225. St. Lawrence 224. Palace of Justice 225. Park 226. Scbieland Palace 225. Stadhuis 225. '' Tollens" Statue 227. Yacht Club 225. Zuiderkerk 225. Rouillon 153. Roulers s. Rosselaere. Roux 145. Ru 195. Ruhr, the 299. Ruhrort 299. Rumbeke 24. Ruysbroeck 144. Ruyter, Fort 140. Ryssel 55. Rysselt 310. Saardam s. Zaandam. Salm, the 197. Salzbergen 310. 319. Sambre, the 145. Samson lf!'7. Sas van Ghent 51. Sauer. the 160. 197. Saventhem 160. Scarpe, the 200. Schagen 286. Schar^oude 286. Sohelde, the 28. 31 . 111. etc. Srheldewindeke 52. Sfhellebelle 52. Schellingwoude 276. Schenkenschanz 298. Schermer 287. Scheveningen 240. Schie, the 227. Schiedam 227. Schoonhoven 302. Schouwen 139. Schuelen 142. Schuttringen 160. Sclaigueaux 187. Sclayn 187. Sclessin 178. Seilles 187. Seine, the 204. Semoy, the 157. Seneffe 144. Senne . the 52. 59. 144. Seraing 176. Sichem 142. Simpelveld 143. Sire, the 160. Sittard 184. Slavanden 182. Sloe, the 139. Sluis 23. Slykens 6. Smouhen 101. SneekerMeer,the312. Soestdijk 296. Soignes, Foret de 98. Soignies 197. Sombreffe 149. Somme. the 201. Sons 300. Sonsbeek 292. Sotteghem 52. Souverain - Wandre 179. Spa 192. Stammheim 299. Stavelot 196. Stavenisse 140. Scavoren 315. Steenwijk 311. Sterpenich 158. Streefkerk 302. Sure, the 197. Susteren 184. Swalmen 184. Tailfer 153. Tamines 146. Tegelen 184. Templeuve 28. Ter-Elst 109. Tergnier 205. Tergoes 139. Ter-Gouw 289. Termonde s. Dender- monde. Terneuzen 51. Ternuth 52. Tervueren 98. Testelt 142. Tete de Flandre 53. Texel, Island 287. Theux 192. Thielt 24. Thienen 165. Tholen 140. Thourout 23. Thuin 206. Thulin 200. Tieff 176. Tiel 306. Tilburg 184. Tilf 156. Tilleur 185. Tilly 151. 165. Tirlemont 165. Tongelre 184. Tongres 143. Tour de Monay 153. Tournai 28. Treves 160. Ste-Trinite', Mont 28. Trois-Ponts 197. Trois-Yierges 197. St. Trond 167. Trou. le, s. Le Trooz. 328 INDEX. Trouille. the 193. St. Truyen 165. Tubize 144. Turnhout 109. Uerdingen 299. Uitgeest 283. Utrecht 292. Vaart, de 302. Yal-St-Lambert 178. Valenciennes 200. Talkenburg 143. Valkenswaard 143. Vaux - sous - Chevre - mont 188. Vecht. the 275. 293. Veenenburg 249. Veenendaal 290. Veenhuizen 312. Yelp 292. Yeluwe, the 301. Yenlo 184. Yerberie 205. Yerviers 189. Yesdre, the 188. Yianen 302. Yieil-Salm 197. Yieille-Montagne 188. 191. Yieux-Dieu 109. Yillers, chateau 160. Yillers-la-Yille 165. Yilvorde 105. Yireux 146. Yise 180. Yitry 201. Ylaardingen 227. Ylake 141. Ylamsch-Hoofd 53. Ylissingen 139. Yogelenzang 249. Yoorschoten 242. Yreeswijk 302. Yrouwensand,the 316. Yughs 113. I Waal, the 298. 304. iWaardenburg 142. Waereghem 25. Waesland. the 53. Wageningen290.301. Walchereu 139. Walcourt 146. Walre 143. Wamme, the 156. Wandre 179. Ware mm e 167. Warmond 249. Wasserblllig 100. Wateren 312. Waterloo 98. Wavre 148. 165. Wayai, the 193. Wecker 160. Weesp 275. Welkenhausen 191. Wellington, Fort 6. Wemeldingen 139. Wenduyne 9. Wervicq 27. Wesel 297. Wetteren 52. Wieringerwaard 287. Wijk bv Duurstede 302. Wijk aan Zee 283. WijkerMeer, the 283. Wilhelmineoord 311. Willems - Canal , the 184. Willemsdorp 141. Willemsluis. the 276. Willemsoord 285. Willemsoord, Pauper- Colony 311. Willemstad 140. Wilwerwiltz 197. Woensdrecht 141. Woerden 289. Wohnung, Huis 299. Wolferdange 197. Wolfhezen 290. Wolz, the 197. Wormerveer 278. Workum 306. 316. Worringen 299. 300. Woudrichem 306. Wouw 141. Wychmael 143. Wylre 143. Wynendaele 23. Xanten 299. Y, the 259. 279. Yperlee, the 27. Ypern 27. Yvoir 153. Yssel. theGueldr.309. 310. — . the Dutch 303. Ysselmonde 303. Zaan, the 279. 282. Zaandam 279. Zaandijk 279. Zaltbommel 306. t' Zand 284. Zandpoort 283. Zandvoort 256. Zarre 23. Zederik, Canal 302. Zeeland 137. Zeelhem 142. Zevenaar 297. 299. Zeist 290. Zierikzee 140. Zonhoven 143. Zons 300. Zorgvliet 241. Zuid-Beveland 139. Zuidplas Polder 288. Zuiderzee, the 315. Ziitphen 310. Zwammerdam 290. Zwanenburg 257. ZwarteWater. the 311. Zwolle 311. Zype, the 284. Leipzig: Printed by Breitkopf & Hartel. University of California SOUTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY 305 De Neve Drive - Parking Lot 17 • Box 951388 LOS ANGELES, CALIFORNIA 90095-1388 Return this material to the library from which It was borrowed. UC SOUTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY A 000 222 578 7