THE LIBRARY 
 
 OF 
 
 THE 
 
 OF 
 
 UNIVERSITY 
 CALIFORNIA 
 
 LOS ANGELES
 
 ;^>"- 
 
 A.NTANANABIVO, TUB CAPITAL OF MADAGASCAK, Will! TUB PROCESSION Of PR
 
 AND PKINCES8 BOYAL PASSING ALONG THE EASTERN SIDE OF THE CAPITAL.
 
 r THREE VISITS 
 
 TO 
 
 MADAGASCAR 
 
 DUEING TUB YKAES 
 
 1853 1854 1856, 
 
 A JOURNEY TO THE CAPITAL ; WITH NOTICES OF THE NATURAL 
 
 HISTORY OF THE COUNTRY AND OF THE PRESENT 
 
 CIVILIZATION OF THE PEOPLE. 
 
 BY THE 
 
 REV. WILLIAM ELLIS, F.H.S., 
 
 AUTHOR OF "POLYNESIAN RESEARCHES." 
 
 Illustrated 62 OZircrotrcuts ftom Ityotoijrap&s, fcc. 
 
 NEW YORK: 
 
 HARPER & BROTHERS, PUBLISHERS, 
 
 FRANKLIN SQUARE. 
 1859.
 
 4t 
 ' ; (o En 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 THE cliief part of the following pages was written in 
 Madagascar. It was my habit, whether traveling or re- 
 siding in one place, to note down, generally at the close of 
 the day, the impressions produced by the novel or attract- 
 ive objects I might have met with, or the information 1 
 might have gathered from the people. This record of daily 
 occurrences was from time to time sent home in the form 
 of journal letters; and from these letters chiefly the follow- 
 ing narratives have been prepared. 
 
 More than twenty years have elapsed since the last En- 
 glish missionaries left Madagascar, and during this period 
 religious changes of the most decisive nature, and events 
 of the highest and most sacred character, have occurred 
 among the people. The imperfect, and, at times, conflict- 
 ing accounts of these events received in England indicated 
 the desirableness of a personal visit. Such visit has been 
 made, and was, there is every reason to believe, welcome 
 to the government and people of Madagascar ; while its re- 
 sults, it is hoped, will prove satisfactory to their friends in 
 this country. The visit proposed by Mr. Cameron and my- 
 self was one of friendship to the queen and people, not an 
 official religious mission, though no objects were so deeply 
 
 484S63 
 
 LIBRARY
 
 ti PREFACE. 
 
 interesting to us as the religious state of the people. For 
 observing this, ample opportunities were afforded ; and on 
 this subject I received much valuable information from the 
 people themselves ; part of it exceedingly painful, on ac- 
 count of the sufferings it made known, the rest, though 
 highly satisfactory and full of hope, I have not, for obvious 
 reasons, included in the narrative of my visits. The pro- 
 fession of Christianity is not permitted by the present gov- 
 ermnent of Madagascar, and statements acceptable and in- 
 teresting to ourselves might affect injuriously good men in 
 a country where civil and religious liberty does not exist, 
 where it is contrary to law for a man even to leave his 
 country without permission from the government, and where 
 the most cruel death I heard of on the coast had been in- 
 flicted on men who had attempted to quit the country with- 
 out leave from their superiors. 
 
 As a friendly visitor from England, I was kindly re- 
 ceived by the queen and all classes of the people ; and 
 nothing could exceed the hospitality and attention shown 
 me on the coast, during my journeys, and at the capital. 
 I have described the novel and often singularly beautiful 
 aspects of the country through which I passed, and the 
 chief incidents of my visits, as they occurred, leaving my 
 readers to form their own opinions of the character of the 
 people, their resources, and present civilization; which 
 would advance much more rapidly, and develop itself far 
 more satisfactorily, were the people not so frequently har- 
 assed by threatening rumors of invasion from a foreign 
 power. The accounts comprised in the following pages of
 
 PREFACE. vii 
 
 my intercourse with, the people, especially with the young 
 prince, the queen's son, and the heir to the throne, for the 
 preservation of whose valuable life the affectionate anxieties 
 of the people are at times intensely excited, will, I most sin- 
 cerely trust, increase the interest felt in the people of Mad- 
 agascar, and particularly in the young prince personally, 
 by the English generally, and more especially by the re- 
 ligious portions of the community. 
 
 The language and physical character of the people fre- 
 quently suggested attractive ethnological inquiries, and the 
 new and beautiful plants which I met with in the forests or 
 plains not only afforded much gratification at the time, but 
 have enabled me to add a few specimens of some that are 
 highly esteemed as rare and curious to those already culti- 
 vated in England. Besides those which tire described, I 
 have, since the following sheets were printed, been inform- 
 ed by Sir "W. J. Hooker that among the ouvirandra which 
 I brought over there has recently been found a second spe- 
 cies, the Ouvirandra Bernieriana, bearing delicately rose- 
 colored flowers. This new species Sir W. J. Hooker has 
 described and figured recently in the "Botanical Maga- 
 zine." 
 
 The map is reduced from the outline of the late Commo- 
 dore Owen's survey. 
 
 I am indebted to photography for the chief part of the 
 illustrations of the volume. The different portraits, some 
 of which exhibit remarkable heads, are all from photo- 
 graphs taken in the country. Several of the views, as well 
 as the representations of a number of trees and plants, were
 
 viii PREFACE. 
 
 obtained by the same means, or from sketches made, with 
 one or two exceptions, while the objects were before me. 
 The ouvirandra was drawn from a plant brought to this 
 country ; and I beg to return my sincere thanks to the 
 proprietors of "Knight's Museum of Animated Nature" 
 for the use of three illustrations of subjects of Natural His- 
 tory. 
 
 In my remarks on the native language, I have made use 
 of the grammars of Messrs. Baker and Griffiths, but more 
 especially of a valuable paper on the language kindly fur- 
 nished for me some years ago by the late Kev. J. J. Free- 
 man. 
 
 I also avail myself of the present opportunity to ac- 
 knowledge iny obligations to Sir ~W. J. Hooker and Dr. 
 Lindley for th* useful suggestions which they kindly of- 
 fered, in directing my attention, previous to my departure 
 from England, to the botanical treasures which Madagascar 
 was known to contain. Nor would I omit on this occasion 
 to express my grateful sense of the hospitality and kind- 
 ness of His Excellency Sir James Higginson, governor of 
 Mauritius at the time of my visit, to General Sutherland 
 and General Hay, the late Mr. and Mrs. Kelsey, the Kev. 
 J. Le Brurf, and Messrs. 1'Estrange, as well as that of other 
 friends in Mauritius and at the Cape of Good Hope. 
 
 The kindness evinced by these friends was not only 
 gratifying to myself personally, as a stranger among them, 
 but also highly encouraging as an expression of the deep 
 interest felt in the welfare of the people to whom my visits 
 were directed. ^ E < 
 
 Hoddesden, October, 1858.
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 Brief historical Introduction. Treaty between the'English and Malagasy 
 for the Abolition of the Slave-trade. Introduction of useful Arts, Let- 
 ters, and the Knowledge of the Christian Keligion. Death of Radanm 
 Prohibition of Religious Teaching. Departure of the Missionaries. 
 French and English Attack on Tamatave. Severe Persecution of the 
 Christians. Conversion of the Princes. Departure of the Author from 
 England for Madagascar. Voyage to St. Vincent's. Ascension. The 
 Cape of Good Hope. Public Rejoicings at Cape Town. The School- 
 children's Feast. Last Sunday on board the Indiana. Arrival at 
 Port Louis. Reports of the continued Sufferings of the Christians in 
 Madagascar Page 17 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 Departure from Port Louis. Stormy Voyage. Arrival at Tamatave. 
 Appearance of the Village. The Harbor-master and his Officers. Let- 
 ters sent to the Capital. Invitation to the Shore. Welcome from the 
 Officers and People. Native Custom-house. The Harbor-master's 
 Dwelling. Important Conversation with some of the chief Officers of 
 the Port respecting the Intentions of the English. Conversation respect- 
 ing the Christians. Curious Mode of taking Snuff. Analogies between 
 the Polynesian and Malagasy Languages. Appearance and Dress of the 
 People. The Trade of the Island. Feelings of the Native Christians. 
 Our Annoyances on board the Ship. New Plants and Flowers. Tlia 
 Ouvirandra fenestralis. Letters from the Capital. Hospitality on Shore. 
 Departure from Tamatave. Arrival at Mauritius 34 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 Compensation sent to the Queen of Madagascar. Situation of Port Louis. 
 Cosmopolitan Aspect of its Inhabitants. Designation of the Shops. 
 Number and splendid Appearance of the Trees and Flowers of Port Louis. 
 Description of the Bazar. Exhibition of the Society of Agriculture 
 and Arts. Arrival of the Survivors of the Wreck of the Meridian. Hos- 
 pitality and Munificence of the Inhabitants of Mauritius. Testimonial to 
 Captain Ludlow. Religious Services for the Seamen. Visit to Moka.
 
 x CONTENTS. 
 
 Residence of the late Dr. Thorn. Ascent of the Pouce Mountain, and 
 View from the Summit. Plant-hunting in the Woods. Return of Mr. 
 Cameron from Madagascar. Terms on which the Trade of foreign 
 Countries with Madagascar was renewed. Letter to Foreigners from the 
 Queen's Secretary Page 69 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 Visit to the Governor at Reduit. Luxuriance of Tropical Vegetation. 
 Plants and Flowers from Europe and Asia. Arrival of a Missionary from 
 India. Proposed Efforts for the religious Instruction of the Coolies. 
 Efforts on behalf of the Creole Population of Grande Riviere. Photog- 
 raphy in the Tropics. Visit to Mr. Che'ron at Plaines Wilhelms. Fete 
 of the Children in the School. Sugar-works on the Estate. Place of 
 Worship for the Malagasy. Excursion to the Country. Spice Planta- 
 tions at Grande Donjon. Preparations for the Feast of the New Year. 
 Permission given to bury the Skulls of English and Frenchmen fixed on 
 Poles at Tamatave. Visit to Beau Bassin and Wolmar. Magnificent 
 Species of Artocarpus. Effects of frequent Hurricanes. Heat of the 
 Weather. Preparation for a Hurricane. Visit to the Royal Gardens at 
 Pamplemouses. Splendid Avenue of Palms. Missionary Stations in the 
 Country. Missionary Anniversary at Port Louis. The Cemetery. 
 Fearful Ravages of the Cholera at Mauritius. Departure for Madagas- 
 car 98 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 Second Voyage to Madagascar. Quarantine on account of the Cholera at 
 Mauritius. Residence on Shore. Visit to a sick Chief. His Secretary. 
 Presents from the People. Correspondence with the Government at 
 the Capital. Hospitality of M. Provint. Evening Walks. Drawers of 
 Water. Cattle-market. Mode of embarking and landing Cattle. Ar- 
 ticles sold in the daily Market. House of the Son of the Chief Judge. 
 The national Festival of tfce New Year. Presents. Visitors from the 
 Capital. Annual Festival Dinner by the Governor. Dresses of the 
 Company. Eating of the Jaka preserved since the last annual Festival. 
 Accounts of the destructive Progress of the Cholera at Mauritius. 
 Death of Mr. Kelsey. Visit to the Capital prohibited on account of the 
 Cholera at Mauritius. Astonishment of the Natives on witnessing the 
 Effects of Photography. Remarkable Countenances of many of the Peo- 
 ple. Application for Medicine. Toothaches. Varieties of native 
 Medicine. Poisonous Fish. Serpents. Habits of the Aye- Aye .... 133 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 Domestic Slavery in Madagascar. Prices of Slaves. Modes of Punishment. 
 Numbers of Slaves. Native Manufactures. Rofia Cloth. Native Bask-
 
 CONTENTS. xi 
 
 cts. Fondness of Natives for Barter. Conversations with the People. 
 Desire after Education. Historical Notice of the Persecution of the Chris- 
 tians. Simple Scriptural Character of their Faith. Testimonies in their 
 Favor. Scriptural Basis of their religious Organizations and Observances. 
 Social Gatherings. Perils to which they have been exposed. Public 
 Confessions. Constancy unto Death. Nature and Severity of their Pun- 
 ishments. Numbers who have suffered on account of their Religion. Ex- 
 ecutions in 1849. Latest Edict against Christian Observances. Opinions 
 of the Natives which render Christianity peculiarly criminal in the Estima- 
 tion of the Hcr.then. Claims of the Christians to Sympathy and Com- 
 passion Page 173 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 Journey from Tamatave to Foule Pointe. Native Gardens. Photography 
 in the Forest. Novel Aspects of the Vegetation. Native Lodgings. 
 Malagasy Travelers. Abundant and beautiful Orchidaceous Plants. 
 Angraecum superbum. A. sesquipedale. Native Lizards and Birds. 
 Arrival at Foule Pointe. Native Accommodations and Hospitality. 
 Pleasant Intercourse with the People. Hospitality of the Residents. 
 Interview with the Governor. Brief Notice of Benyowsky. Return to 
 Tamatave. Last Night on Shore. Affectionate Interest of the Natives. 
 Early Morning Embarkation. Last View of the Land. Arrival at 
 Mauritius. Departure for the Cape of Good Hope 197 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 Visit to the Missionary Settlements in the Cape Colony. Journey to Paarl. 
 African Omnibuses. Driving ten in hand. Intercourse with an aged 
 Missionary. Departure from Cape Town. Accident on the Road. 
 Aspect of the Country. Variety and Abundance of Flowers and Fruits. 
 Zurbraak. An African Congregation. The Montague Pass. Os- 
 triches. Extent and Beauty of the Cango Caverns. Hospitality of a 
 Negro Woman. Matzie's Riviere. Settlement of African Christians. . 
 Spirited Conduct of the People of Oudshorn. Journey across the Desert. 
 Graaf Reynet. Fruits of Frugality and Industry. Flight of Locusts. 
 Large Herds of Springboks. Kindness of Mr. Gilfillan, Wonder Hill. 
 Encampment on the Banks of the Orange River. Subsidence of the 
 Waters. Journey to Philipolis. Sunday with the Griquas. State and 
 Prospects of the People. Hospitality of the Boers. Sheep-shearing in 
 South Africa. Cradock. Disease among the Cattle. Orange Grove. 
 Venomous Reptiles. Anecdotes of Caffres. Visit to Mr. Hart at Glen 
 Avon .. 222
 
 xii ^ CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 Journey to Blinkwater. Beacon Hill. Intercourse with Mr. Van Rover 
 and the People. Arrival at Philipton. Venomous Serpents. Instances 
 of their Power over their Prey. Intercourse with the People of the Set- 
 tlement. Gratifying Effects of the Visit from the Governor of the Colo- 
 ny. Sunday at the Kat River. ---Farewell View of the Settlement. 
 Knapp's Hope in Caft'reland. Site of Dr. Vanderkemp's earliest Labors 
 among the Caffres. King William's Town. Agreeable Intercourse witli 
 Mr. Brownlee and Jan Tzatzoe. V'sit to Peelton. Effects of the La- 
 bors and Influence of Mr. Birt. Journey to Graham's Town. State of 
 the People. Port Elizabeth. Visits to Uitenhage and Bethelsdorp. 
 Hospitality of the People at Hankey. Their Recollections of the Past. 
 Return to Cape Town. Review of the Events and Objects of our Jour- 
 . ney. Reflections on the State and Prospects of the Colored Population 
 of the Colony. Return to England Page 25G 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 Overland Route to Pointe de Galle. Detention in Ceylon. Voyage to 
 Mauritius. Arrival in Madagascar. Signs of increasing Traffic at Tama- 
 tave. First Night on shore. General Fondness of the People for Music. 
 Introduction of the Violin. Dinner with the Governor. Deaths of 
 former Friends. Applications for Medicine. Presents from the Princes. 
 Visit from the Governor and Suite. Astonishment excited by the Elec- 
 tric Telegraph. The Queen's Preference for running Messengers rather 
 than the Wires. Native Work in Iron. Iron-smelting. Native Smiths. 
 Message of Condolence from the Queen to a bereaved Family at Tama- 
 tave. Mode of estimating the Worth of the deceased. Homage to the 
 dead. Scenes of Riot and Drunkenness. The Governor's Dinner to the 
 Officers from the Capital. Bearers engaged for the Journey. The Gov- 
 ernment Seamstresses 280 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 Departure from Tamatave. Slaughter of an Ox, and subsequent Rejoicing. 
 Arrival of Sodra. Number of our Parry. Native Officers. Dwell- 
 ings of the People. Native Hospitality. Forest Explorations, and new 
 Plants and Flowers. Beautiful Lake Scenery. The Bird beloved by 
 Cattle, Aspect of Andevorandro, and Occupations of the People. Voy- 
 nge on the Iharoka. The RofiaPalm. Magnificent Astrapaea Trees. 
 Speeches on offering Presents. Interview with an Officer from the Capi- 
 tal. Retail of spirituous Liquors. Aspect of the distant Country. 
 Apprehensions from Crocodiles. Size, Habits, and Ferocity of Croco- 
 diles. Crocodiles' Eggs collected for Food or Sale in the Markets. 
 Perils and Privations of a Party of Christian Fugitives. The hot Springs
 
 CONTENTS. xiii 
 
 at Ranomafana. Native Music. Continuance of Rain. Physical Ap- 
 pearance of the People, and Modes of dressing their Hair. Appearance 
 of the Rocks. The Traveler's-tree, its magnificent Form and varied 
 Uses. Meals on the Journey. Exceedingly difficult Roads. Objects of 
 Reverence or Worship Page 303 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 Beauty of the Mountain Scenery. Mode of catching a Bullock. Charms 
 against evil Dreams. Tomb of a Chief. Weeping-place of the Hovas. 
 Beautiful Forms of Growth of the Bamboo. Wild Cattle and wild 
 Boars. Former Hunting-excursions in Madagascar. Frightful Roads. 
 The great Forest of Alamazaotra. Magnitude of the Trees, Beauty of 
 the Flowers, and Rarity of the Ferns. The Ferry of Mangoro. Milita- 
 ry Salute. Friends from the Capital. Breakfast with a Hova Family. 
 Prince Ramonja's Village. Salutation of his aged Nurse. Presents from 
 his Tenantry. Extent and Beauty of the Valley of Angavo. The Mount- 
 ain Pass and Fortress. Village Market. Locusts caught and preserved 
 for Food. Houses of Ankova. First Night in a Hova Village. Depre- 
 dations of the Rats and Mice. The feudal-looking Village of Ambato- 
 manga. Accommodations and Lodging. Friends from the Capital. 
 Tombs of the Hovas. Interior of the House at Amboipo. Native Silk- 
 weaving 342 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 Arrival of the Queen's Officers. Entry to the Capital. Extent and Ap- 
 pearance of Antananarivo. Palace and chief Buildings. Intricacy of the 
 Roads. Description of the House and Accommodation provided by the 
 Queen. Welcome on arriving. Salubrity of the Climate. Munificent 
 Present from the Queen. Visit from the Prince Royal. His Person and 
 Dress. His Estimate of the English. The Meaning of Protection. In- 
 ducements offered to him to become a Roman Catholic. Prince Ramonja. 
 Message from the Queen. Satisfaction of the Court with the Friendship 
 of England. Affecting Interview with the Family of a former Friend. 
 Presents from the Prince and Princess, and the chief Nobles. Excursion 
 with the Prince. Native-built stone Bridges. The silver Spear. Pal- 
 ace of Isoaicrana. Places of Execution. Excursion with the Prince and 
 Princess. Procession and Music. Princess's Figure, Dress, and Palan- 
 quin. Culture of the Vine. Simple and primitive Homage of the Vil- 
 lagers to their Rulers. Inquiries of the Princess respecting the Royal 
 Family of England. Music. English National Anthem. Dancing. 
 Military Encampments. Request of a Slave...., 379
 
 xiv CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 Audience of the Queen at the Palace. Salutation to the Queen. Allusion 
 to Presentation to Queen Victoria. Offering of the Hasina. Declara- 
 tion of the Friendship of the English toward the Malagasy. The Queen's 
 Reply relative to the Constancy of the English. Assurance of Friend- 
 ship and Good-will from the English Government. Desire of the Queen 
 for Amity with all Nations. Description of the Palace. The Queen's 
 Appearance, Dress, and regal State. The Members of her Court. 
 Satisfaction of the Queen with my Visit. Breakfast with M. Laborde. 
 Conversations with the Prince. Wealth of Malagasy Nobles. Dinner 
 given by the Queen. Number of Dishes. Native Plate. Music. 
 Speeches after Dinner. Sovereign Rights of Nations. Visits of the 
 Sick. Intercourse with Natives who had visited Bourbon. Photographic 
 Difficulties. Presents for the Queen. Portraits of the Queen and Prince 
 Consort peculiarly gratifying. Invitation to the Palace. Music. Saka- 
 lave Dance. Native and European Dances. Gorgeous and splendid Cos- 
 tume of the Court Page 410 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 Visit from the Prince. Letter to the Queen. Message and Presents from 
 the Queen. Regrets on account of my approaching Departure. Visits 
 to the Sick. Arrangements of the native Dwellings. Social Affec- 
 tions. Portrait of the Prince. Conversations with the Prince. Aston- 
 ishment and Delight of the Prince and Princess with the Photographic 
 Process. Breakfast with the Prince and Princess. Conversati n. 
 Portraits of Members of the Malagasy Court. Proposal of the Prince 
 and Princess and their Friends to spend the last Evening of my Stay in 
 the Capital at my House. The Prince's Band. Interesting Conversa- 
 tion. Why the People of England love their Queen. Security of God's 
 Protection. Desire of the Youth of the Country after Knowledge. 
 Possibility of a future College in the Capital. Departure of t e Guests. 
 Intercourse with beloved Friends. Bearers provided by the Queen. 
 Conversation and refined Attention of the Prince. Departure from the 
 Capital accompanied by the Prince and Nobles. Affecting Spectacle of 
 a Prisoner. Parting with the Prince and his Friends. Reflections on 
 the Visit. Recent Events. Sufferings and Constancy of the Christians. 
 Martyrdom in 1849. Recollections of the Prince. Estimate of his 
 Character 441 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 Breakfast at Amboilefo. Intercourse with Friends from the Capital. 
 Hospitality at Prince Ramonja's Village. New Plants collected. Lodg- 
 ing in (he Forest of Alamazaotra. Noise of the Monkeys or Lemurs
 
 CONTENTS. xv 
 
 Lycopodiums and other Plants. Heavy Kains. Extreme Difficulty of 
 Traveling in the Forest. Meeting with French Priests and Merchants. 
 Acceptable Collection of Plants. New Species of Platyceruin or Stag's- 
 horn Fern. Arrival at Tamatave. Visit to the Locality of the Ouvi- 
 randra Fenestralis. Crocodiles. Kindness experienced at Tamatave. 
 Arrival of the Castro. Presents from the Queen. Departure from 
 Madagascar. Hospitality at Mauritius. Storm on the Ocean. Kescue 
 of two shipwrecked Mariners. Remarkable Meeting with a Native of 
 the Sandwich Islands. Safe Arrival in England Page 475
 
 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS, 
 
 PAGK 
 
 Map of Madagascar 1 
 
 View of the Capital, and Procession Frontispiece. 
 
 Harbor-master's House, Tamatavc 43 
 
 Lace-leaf Plant (Ouvirandra fenestralis) 62 
 
 African Palm-tree 77 
 
 Artocarpus inteyrifolia, or Jack-tree 117 
 
 Female Slaves drawing "Water at the Well 139 
 
 Pandanus-trees and Cattle-pen 143 
 
 Portraits of Hova Officers, etc 152 
 
 Portrait of Hova Woman and Betsimasaraka Woman 1G1 
 
 Portrait of Hova Officer 164 
 
 The Aye-Aye 171 
 
 Modes of punishing Slaves 175 
 
 Forest-tree, with Orchidaceous Plants 200 
 
 Mode of Traveling, and Angrcecum sesquipedale 207 
 
 African Aloes and Zamia 274 
 
 Iron-smelting and Native Smiths 294 
 
 Rice Granary 314 
 
 Group of the Traveler's-tree 333 
 
 Idol 341 
 
 Travelers in the great Forest of Alamazaotra 353 
 
 Mode of catching Locusts 367 
 
 Fahitra 369 
 
 Audience of the Queen at the Palace 418 
 
 Portraits of the Prince and Princess Koyal 452 
 
 Portraits of Hova Princess and Officers 457 
 
 The Spiny Tenrec 476 
 
 The Lemur 480 
 
 Street in Tamatave 486
 
 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR, &c. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 Brief historical Introduction. Treaty between the English and Malagasy 
 for the Abolition of the Slave-trade. Introduction of useful Arts, Let- 
 ters, and the Knowledge of the Christian Religion. Death of Radama. 
 Prohibition of Religious Teaching. Departure of the Missionaries. 
 French and English Attack on Tamatave. Severe Persecution of the 
 Christians. Conversion of the Princes. Departure of the Author from 
 England for Madagascar. Voyage to St. Vincent's. Ascension. The 
 Cape of Good Hope. Public Rejoicings at Cape Town. The School- 
 children's Feast. Last Sunday on board the "Indiana." Arrival at 
 Port Louis. Reports of the continued Sufferings of the Christians in 
 Madagascar. 
 
 THE Island of Madagascar, extending over an area larger 
 than that of Great Britain and Ireland combined, and in- 
 habited by more than three millions of people, has at differ- 
 ent periods attracted the notice of the chief maritime nations 
 of Europe, but, with the exception of a short period in the 
 early part of the seventeenth century, it is only since our 
 possession of Mauritius, and the subsequent treaty of friend- 
 ship and alliance entered into between the late king Eada- 
 ma and the Governor of Mauritius in 1817, that our own 
 countrymen have given much attention to the*island or its 
 inhabitants. 
 
 In their treaty with Eadama, whom the English chose to 
 regard as the supreme ruler of the country, they sought 
 chiefly the abolition of the slave-trade, and in order to com- 
 pensate the king and his chiefs for the loss which this meas- 
 ure would entail upon them, and to secure their co-opera- 
 tion in rendering it effectual, an annual payment was made 
 
 B
 
 18 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. i. 
 
 by the British government to the king. This payment con- 
 sisted partly of ammunition and arms, and men were sent to 
 Madagascar to instruct the native soldiers in the use of fire- 
 arms and in military tactics. To the arms and discipline 
 thus supplied, and used with a wanton disregard of human 
 life and human suffering, happily unknown in warfare 
 among civilized nations, are to be ascribed much of Kada- 
 ma's success in extending the dominion of the Hovas far be- 
 yond the central province of Ankova, its original boundary. 
 Besides the superior arms and training thus supplied to the 
 Malagasy soldiers, a number of native youths were received 
 on board ships of the British navy, in order that they might 
 learn practical seamanship, and be able to act as pilots, or 
 to hold other offices under their own government at the sev- 
 eral ports of the island ; while others were sent to England 
 for education, and instruction in the arts of civilized life. 
 
 Missionaries from the London- Missionary Society reached 
 the coast of Madagascar in 1818 ; and, after the treaty with 
 the British government had been finally ratified in 1820, 
 they proceeded to the capital, and were cordially welcomed 
 by the king, who appeared still more delighted when they 
 were followed by a number of intelligent men sent out by 
 the same society to instruct the people in the practice of 
 many of the most useful arts. The strange and somewhat 
 complex language of the people was acquired by the mis- 
 sionaries, who introduced an alphabet into the language, ar- 
 ranged its grammar, prepared elementary books, and trans- 
 lated the EToly Scriptures into the native tongue. 
 
 In the space often years after the settlement of the teach- 
 ers at the capital, not fewer than 10,000 or 15,000 of the 
 natives had learned to read, many of them also to write, and 
 a few had made some slight progress in English, at the same 
 time that a number professed themselves Christians. "With- 
 in the same period, among the 1000 or 1500 youths who 
 had been placed as apprentices under the missionary arti-
 
 CHAP. i. GOOD EFFECTS OF ALLIANCE WITH THE ENGLISH. 19 
 
 sans, some had been taught to work in iron, which abounds 
 in the country ; others had been trained to be carpenters, 
 builders, tanners, curriers, shoemakers, etc. These were some 
 of the most satisfactory results of the king's alliance with 
 the English, and the settlement of English missionaries in 
 his country ; and although the advantage of so sudden and 
 large an increase of fire-arms among a people very partially 
 civilized may have been questionable, the substituting of le- 
 gitimate and honorable commerce for the degrading traffic 
 in slaves, the opening of a way for frequent and friendly in- 
 tercourse with foreigners, the teaching of useful arts, the in- 
 troduction of letters, with the knowledge of Christianity by 
 which this was followed, will ever cause the treaty between 
 Sir Eobert Farquhar and the king Kadama to be regarded 
 as one of the most important events in the modern history 
 of Madagascar. 
 
 To his own people, Eadama's reign was one of unprece- 
 dented prosperity, though of comparatively short duration. 
 lie was a ruler greatly in advance of his time and his peo- 
 ple ; but he died in the year 1828, at the early age of thir- 
 ty-six, and the enlightening and humanizing influences 
 which were so full of promise for the nation appear in a 
 great measure to have terminated with his life. The ami- 
 able and intelligent Prince Eakatobe, eldest son of Radama's 
 eldest sister, was nominated by the king successor to the 
 throne, but on the death of Radama he was assassinated, 
 and the present ruler was raised to the supreme authority. 
 For a time the schools and the religious teaching of the 
 missionaries were allowed, but it soon became evident that 
 the policy of the government was changed. The influence 
 of the idol-keepers, and of the^ supporters of divination and 
 other superstitions of the country, was soon restored to its 
 former supremacy. In 1835 the profession of the Christian 
 religion by any of the Malagasy was prohibited ; it was also 
 required that all Christian books should be given up to the
 
 20 VISITS TO MADAGASCAE. CHAT. i. 
 
 government, and in 1836 the missionaries and their excel- 
 lent coadjutors, the Christian artisans, departed from the 
 island. 
 
 Eight or nine years afterward the evasion of the queen's 
 orders prohibiting the removal of natives from the island 
 greatly irritated the Malagasy government, and the appli- 
 cation of the native laws to Europeans residing in Madagas- 
 car, as a means of maintaining native authority, gave great 
 offense to the foreign traders at Tamatave. The latter ap- 
 pealed for assistance to the English governor at Mauritius, 
 and to the French governor at Bourbon ; and in June, 1845, 
 one English and two French vessels of war went to Tama- 
 tave to endeavor to adjust the differences and disputes ex- 
 isting there. Failing to effect this by amicable conference, 
 they employed force, fired on the people, burned the town, 
 and landed and attacked the fort. But, though they killed 
 and wounded a number of the natives, they were ultimate- 
 ly obliged to retire to their ships, leaving in the hands of 
 the natives thirteen of their number, whose skulls, accord- 
 ing to the Malagasy practice, were afterward fixed on poles 
 in front of the fortification which they had assailed. 
 
 This aggression, so deeply to be deplored, produced long 
 and serious evils. The government prohibited the export- 
 ation of every article of native produce; and the trade in 
 rice and cattle the latter so important to Mauritius and the 
 Isle of Bourbon was thus destroyed ; and notwithstanding 
 the efforts of the English admiral Dacres in 1848, and the 
 French admiral Cdcile, to restore friendly relations between 
 those nations and the Malagasy, all amicable intercourse en- 
 tirely ceased for a period of ight years. 
 
 Long before this interruption of commercial intercourse 
 between the natives and foreigners, which it was the interest 
 of both parties to maintain, the queen's government had 
 shown its fixed determination not only to arrest the prog- 
 ress of Christianity in the country, but to destroy it wher-
 
 CHAP. i. FIRST PERSECUTION OF CHRISTIANS. 21 
 
 ever it might appear. Scarcely had the missionaries left 
 the capital in 1836, before a number of persons suspected of 
 being Christians were required to prove their innocence by 
 drinking the Tangena, or poison-water, which to many of 
 them proved fatal. 
 
 In the following year a considerable number of the peo- 
 ple were accused of reading religious books and uniting in 
 Christian worship. Several of these were severely punish- 
 ed by fine, imprisonment, or unredeemable slavery; and 
 one devoted Christian woman, Rasalama, was put to death. 
 In 1838, Rafaralahy, a young man who had accompanied 
 the first Malagasy martyr to the place of execution, shared 
 her fate ; and before the close of the year, Rafaravavy, with 
 four of her companions, who subsequently visited England, 
 only saved their lives by escaping from the island. Others 
 wandered from place to place in much suffering and immi- 
 nent peril, often seeking concealment and safety in the al- 
 most impervious forests and in the dreary caverns of the 
 mountains, until the year 1842, when sixteen of them, while 
 on their way to the coast with a view of escaping from the 
 island, were betrayed by their guides and taken back to the 
 capital, where nine of them were cruelly put to death. 
 
 The effect of these sanguinary proceedings seemed to be 
 the very reverse of what the government intended. The 
 attention of all classes was thereby drawn to the subject of 
 religion, and the confidence of many in their idols appeared 
 greatly weakened, while the Christians seemed to be con- 
 firmed in their faith by the severe ordeal through which it 
 had sustained them. 
 
 Among others over whose minds the pretended power of 
 the idols had ceased to operate was the queen's son, then in 
 his seventeenth year. In 1846, after much conference with 
 some of the Christians, this youthful prince was induced to 
 renounce the superstitions of his country. He soon after- 
 ward declared himself a Christian, and was baptized ; and,
 
 22 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. i. 
 
 whatever may be the extent to which he is himself the sub- 
 ject of religious influence, he has ever since proved a gen- 
 erous, kind, and faithful friend to the Christians. Through 
 his influence, and that of others, Eamonja, a prince of the 
 highest rank, being the son of the queen's sister, was in- 
 duced to study the Bible, and ultimately to declare his con- 
 viction of its truth. This prince publicly identified himself 
 with the Christians, and has ever since, through all their 
 fearful vicissitudes of peril and sorrow, proved himself one 
 of their most efficient and faithful friends, as well as the 
 honorable and consistent exemplar of their principles ; 
 sometimes pleading with the queen on their behalf, and set- 
 ting forth not always without something like success the 
 excellency and the value of the Holy Scriptures. 
 
 The sympathy of her son with the Christians, and his 
 adoption of their faith, is said to have been exceedingly of- 
 fensive to the queen, who has regarded him as being the 
 victim of the incantations or witchcraft of the Christians. 
 This feeling, heightened perhaps by unfavorable representa- 
 tions from the political rivals of the prince, her son, may 
 have hastened the violent persecution which occurred in 
 the year 1849. In this fearful season of extreme trial more 
 than 2000 persons were implicated, many were subjected to 
 heavy punishments, and eighteen individuals, including 
 some of high rank and station, were put to death. It was, 
 indeed, a time of the most severe sifting which the perse- 
 cuted Church in Madagascar had yet been called to pass 
 through ; and numbers, as might be expected during such 
 a season, deserted from their ranks. On the other hand, 
 scarcely had, the fierceness of their persecutors begun to sub- 
 side before others who had witnessed the uncomplaining 
 spirit, the patient suffering, and the heroic constancy of the 
 Christians, were drawn, notwithstanding the prospect of al- 
 most inevitable suffering, or death, to seek admission to 
 their fellowship.
 
 CHAP. i. OBJECTS OF THE AUTHOR'S VISITS. 23 
 
 Although since the year 1845 there had been but little 
 communication with Madagascar, yet, whenever opportu- 
 nity offered, intercourse had been maintained between the 
 natives in the island and their fellow-sufferers in exile at 
 Mauritius. In 1852 accounts were received from, parties 
 residing in Madagascar, that political and other favorable 
 changes were in progress. 
 
 The London Missionary Society, by whom these accounts 
 were received, justly deeming them too important to be 
 disregarded, judged it most expedient, in the first instance, 
 to seek further information by specific inquiries on the spot. 
 This ultimately led to the visits since paid to that country, 
 as well as to South Africa, some of the chief incidents of 
 which are narrated in the following pages. 
 
 Early in the -year 1853 I was invited, together with Mr. 
 Cameron, then residing at the Cape of Good Hope, to pro- 
 ceed to Madagascar, on a visit of friendship, in order to as- 
 certain, as far as practicable, the actual state of the people 
 and the views of the government. 
 
 The people of Madagascar were well known to Mr. Cam- 
 eron, and they had long been subjects of great interest to 
 myself, not only on account of their own peculiar circum- 
 stances, but from their resemblance, in many respects, to 
 the South Sea Islanders, among whom, in my early years, 
 I had spent an eventful portion of my life. I was conse- 
 quently not unwilling to devote my best energies to a work 
 which to many earnest minds appeared fraught with hope- 
 ful promise. 
 
 On the 14th of April, 1853, 1 embarked at Southampton, 
 onboard the fine iron screw steam-ship Indiana, of 1800 
 tons' burden ; and in the afternoon of the following day, 
 having taken in our mails at Plymouth, we stood out to 
 sea. The evening became cold and cloudy, but many of 
 my fellow-passengers remained on deck until a late hour,
 
 24 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR CHAP. i. 
 
 watching the varied objects of interest on the land, till the 
 shadows of evening, spreading over cliff and cove, conceal- 
 ed the shore and all beyond it from our view. 
 
 My own thoughts and feelings were very different from 
 those with which, in early life, I. had, when sailing over the 
 same course, looked, as I supposed, for the last time on 
 England and all its highly-prized and fondly-cherished as- 
 sociations ; and I sought afresh to commit myself, and all 
 connected with me, to His divine protection whose good- 
 ness had been hitherto so constantly enjoyed. 
 
 The wind in the commencement of our voyage was light, 
 but we felt no discouragement on that account, as we found 
 by noon on the first day that we had traversed the space of 
 206 miles. The breeze soon became more favorable, and 
 for the first seven days of our passage we sailed about 240 
 miles each day without the aid of steam ; and when the 
 wind ceased we were propelled at about the same rate by 
 steam alone. This was my first voyage in an ocean steam- 
 er of such dimensions ; and when the water was tolerably 
 smooth the engine-room became a place of great attraction 
 to me, where the wonderful adjustment of the vast machin- 
 ery and the exact and easy working of the whole, notwith- 
 standing the motion of the sea, often excited intense ad- 
 miration. Our chief engineer, an intelligent young Scotch- 
 man, told me that when using full steam force the engine- 
 fires consumed thirty tons of coal per day, that the screw 
 made 3540 revolutions in the hour, that each single revolu- 
 tion of the screw propelled our unwieldy iron vessel nine- 
 teen feet through the water, and that in ordinary weather 
 our usual speed was nine or ten miles an hour. Uninter- 
 rupted progress was not the only advantage of our voyag- 
 ing in a steam-ship ; sixty gallons of beautifully clear fresh 
 water were condensed every day, and proved one of our 
 greatest luxuries. 
 
 Ten days after leaving Plymouth we reached the Island
 
 CHAP. i. EVENINGS WITHIN THE TROPICS. 25 
 
 of St. Vincent, and, having replenished our fuel^ resumed 
 our voyage on the following day. The difference of tem- 
 perature, now that we were within the tropics, had pro- 
 duced so great a change in our habits and feelings that we 
 scarcely seemed to be the same company who, less than a 
 fortnight before, had rarely ventured on deck without ex- 
 tra covering, as a defense against the wind or rain. Now 
 no visitor was so welcome as the breeze, for the thermome- 
 ter sometimes stood at 85 in the saloon at breakfast-time, 
 and rose as the day advanced. Only the lightest clothing 
 could be endured, and the oppressive heat rendered every 
 exertion a fatigue. Few of the passengers, of whom there 
 was a very pleasant company of between seventy and eighty 
 in the cabin, ever remained long on deck during the day ; 
 and the sleeping-places below were many of them during 
 the night almost insufferably hot. But the gorgeous sun- 
 sets and the long long evenings were seasons of delightful 
 existence. , 
 
 The greater portion of the passengers spent most of the 
 evening on deck, attracted by the cool and balmy air, the 
 tranquil sea, the serene and cloudless sky, revealing new 
 constellations and other stars than had ever shone in our 
 northern hemisphere. Conspicuous among these was al- 
 ways seen the Southern Cross, so often leading the thoughts 
 by an irresistible tendency away to the contemplation of 
 that brighter lustre by which the Cross of Calvary shall 
 ultimately draw within its hallowed influence all kindreds 
 of men. 
 
 On the 6th of May we reached Ascension, a sterile and 
 solitary island, rising to a considerable elevation in the 
 centre, and broken into a number of peaks, on the highest 
 portions of which light clouds were resting as we approach- 
 ed the land. The whole island appeared to be one mass 
 of volcanic rock in various stages of decomposition, and 
 destitute of all vegetation, excepting on the upper parts of
 
 26 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. i. 
 
 some of the high land, where a spot, said to be four or five 
 miles from the anchorage and called the Green Mountain, 
 was partially covered with grass and trees. A portion of 
 this Green Mountain had been brought under cultivation, 
 yielding bananas and other tropical fruits. Here a small 
 sanitarium or hospital was erected, and also a rustic sort of 
 country-house, to which, we were told, the governor or offi- 
 cers of the fleet at times resorted, as a means of escape from 
 the burning heat of the sands and of the barren volcanic 
 rocks of the shore. 
 
 The island is used as a naval station for the vessels cruis- 
 ing on the western coast of Africa, from which it is distant 
 seven or eight hundred miles. On coming to the anchor- 
 age we were agreeably surprised to see a neat little village 
 or settlement, with a church and a school-house, handsome 
 barracks, and comfortable - looking detached dwellings, 
 shaded by verandas. These, we learned, were the officers' 
 quarters, and beside them were a number of clean-looking 
 compact cottages, occupied by those connected with the isl- 
 and or the shipping. Four vessels of war were riding at 
 anchor when we arrived, and one of them, the Penelope, a 
 steam frigate, bore the flag of Admiral Bruce. 
 
 As early as practicable on the following morning, in 
 company with one or two friends, I took my photographic 
 apparatus on shore and attempted some views of the church, 
 school-house, barracks, and other objects of interest ; but 
 when I afterward developed my pictures, though some of 
 them came out tolerably well, I found that they had been 
 much too long exposed iri the camera, though not half the 
 time was allowed that would have been requisite in En- 
 gland. 
 
 While engaged with my cameras the clergyman of the 
 station passed by, and, on his stopping to observe my occu- 
 pation, we entered into conversation respecting the state of 
 the island. From him I learned that many of the colored
 
 CHAP. i. TURTLES AT ASCENSION. 27 
 
 men whom I saw abound were liberated negroes who had 
 been educated by the missionaries at Sierra Leone, and had 
 proved trustworthy and well-conducted men. The church 
 and the school-house appeared to be neat and appropriate 
 buildings. Before the former two brass guns, recently tak- 
 en from the slave-depot at Lagos, were fixed as trophies. 
 
 The turtles for which Ascension is so widely celebrated 
 are caught in large numbers along the shore, 300 being 
 sometimes taken in one year. They are kept in two large 
 ponds or inclosures, ten or a dozen yards square, on the 
 beach; into these the sea- water is admitted by openings 
 in the walls of rudely-piled lava by which they are sur- 
 rounded. In these two ponds, we were told, there were at 
 that time from 150 to 200 turtles, each weighing from 100 
 to 300 Ibs. The turtles belong to the government, and a 
 sentinel is placed on the adjacent beach to protect them 
 durifig the season in which they resort to the place to de- 
 posit their eggs. On .the evening of this day, which was 
 intensely hot, we returned to our ship, taking out with us 
 in the same boat a turtle that weighed 300 Ibs., which our 
 purser had purchased at 2%d. per Ib. T^e were indulged 
 with portions of this luxury the next morning at our break- 
 fast-table, partly in the form of turtle-steaks, which, to my 
 fancy, very much resembled sinewy veal cutlets ; and at 
 dinner we had fricasseed turtle-fins, which looked rather 
 too green and rich for me to venture upon. 
 
 We entered Table Bay on the 22d of May. The neat 
 white- walled villas stretching along at the foot of the mount- 
 ains, and, toward Green Point, but a short distance from 
 the sea, the batteries, the extensive African city with its 
 flat-roofed and white or ruddy ochre-colored houses, the 
 spires of the different churches, the jetties, the numerous 
 vessels in the bay, the long and lofty flat-topped Table 
 Mountain' rising immediately behind the city to an eleva- 
 tion of 3582 feet above the sea, and the green and woody
 
 28 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. i. 
 
 aspect of the country toward Rondesbosche, became succes- 
 sively objects of attraction and pleasure to the many curious 
 or deeply -interested gazers who watched the shore. It was 
 Sunday, and, hastening from the vessel to the residence of 
 Mr. Thompson, I was happy to resort with him and his 
 family to the house of God, to render thanks for the pro- 
 tection and blessing I had experienced. 
 
 Considerable excitement prevailed at this time among all 
 classes at the Cape, in consequence of the recent arrival of 
 the Charter of Constitution for the colony, conveying to 
 the colonists the long-desired responsibilities and benefits 
 of self-government. Some few doubted whether the change 
 thus effected would prove advantageous to the colony, but 
 by far the greater portion of the community accustomed to 
 give expression to their opinions on such subjects it was 
 regarded with feelings of unmingled satisfaction. The con- 
 stitution itself was considered as conceived in the most wise 
 and generous spirit, and the powers it vested in local legis- 
 lative bodies, to be created by its authority, as ample and 
 efficient as the most sanguine advocate of improvement and 
 progress could desire. 
 
 Two days after our arrival the queen's birthday was cele- 
 brated with unusual demonstrations of loyalty, and a gen- 
 eral illumination of the city at night. But to me the most 
 pleasing part of the proceedings was the treat given by the 
 municipality to the children of all the day and Sunday 
 schools in Cape Town. They were assembled on the pa- 
 rade, where the children, between 3000 and 4000 in num- 
 ber, walked in procession past the temporary erection in 
 which the lieutenant-governor and his suite, with the offi- 
 cers of the municipality, were assembled. The children of 
 each school walked together, carrying flags on which were 
 inscribed the name of their school, with some appropriate 
 motto or device. One flag a very striking one to me 
 exhibited two hands, a black and a white one, clasped to-
 
 CHAP. i. CHILDREN'S FEAST AT CAPE TOWN. 29 
 
 gether. When the children had walked past the assembled 
 authorities, they united in singing the National Anthem, 
 after which the lieutenant-governor retired, and the children 
 were conducted to their respective tents, pitched in dif- 
 ferent parts of the ground. There they were regaled with 
 an abundant supply of suitable refreshments, liberally fur- 
 nished at the expense of the municipality a pleasing evi- 
 dence of the estimation in which the education of the poorer 
 classes was held by the authorities of the place. But a still 
 more gratifying fact was the entire absence, among the 
 children themselves, of any thing like estrangement or aver- 
 sion on account of color. The majority of the children 
 were Africans, but there was also a considerable number 
 of the children of Europeans ; and many times my atten- 
 tion was attracted by a little, sturdy, woolly -haired negress 
 holding the hand of a blue-eyed, flaxen-haired girl, and both 
 looking up with laughing faces and apparently loving hearts 
 as they passed along. The same perfect cordiality was 
 manifest when they gathered round the refreshments in 
 the tents, or joined in the hymns which they 1 sung before 
 departing from the ground. 
 
 Mr. Cameron, who, to my great satisfaction, had consent- 
 ed to join me in my expedition to Madagascar, soon com- 
 pleted his necessary preparations, and we left Table Bay 
 on the 26th of May. In passing the southern extremity of 
 the African continent we found the sea higher than I had 
 ever seen it, except in passing Cape Horn, and we now 
 experienced greater inconvenience from the motion of the 
 vessel than at any other part of the voyage. 
 
 While passing the Mozambique Channel we had a heavy 
 gale of wind, which our captain called a " regular Mozam- 
 biquer ;" but as we traversed the Indian Ocean the wind 
 was moderate, and our progress rapid as well as pleasant. 
 The discipline and order of the ship, and the arrangements 
 for the passengers were admirable throughout ; and we all
 
 30 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. i. 
 
 felt how much we were indebted to Captain Lambert, not 
 only for our safety and progress, but for a large measure 
 of the comfort we enjoyed. Our Sabbaths had been more 
 agreeable to the majority of those on board than is usually 
 the case at sea. Public religious worship had been held 
 every Sunday, in the morning, on the quarter-deck, at 
 which the crew and firemen, excepting only those actually 
 on duty, always attended, together with the officers and 
 passengers, forming a considerable audience. The captain 
 read the Liturgy, in a manner truly appropriate ; after 
 which, being the only minister of religion on board except 
 an invalid clergyman, I usually delivered a discourse. The 
 afternoon I devoted to the sailors and the men connected 
 with the engines, who welcomed my visits among them, 
 and thankfully received religious tracts and copies of the 
 Scriptures, of which I deeply regretted that I had not a 
 more adequate supply, for very few of the men possessed 
 either a Bible or a Testament. In the evening a second 
 religious service was held, attended chiefly by the passen- 
 gers and stewards or cabin servants. 
 
 The last Sabbath on board was peculiarly interesting. 
 The day was fine, and a large audience had gathered at the 
 morning service. In the afternoon, as I was sitting on the 
 deck, three of the crew came aft, and said they were sent 
 by the rest of the ship's company to ask, as this was the 
 last Sunday I should be on board, if I could preach them 
 another sermon. I assured them of my readiness to do so, 
 and, the captain having expressed his approval, in about 
 half an hour afterward they returned to say that all was 
 ready. Mr. Cameron accompanied me to the forecastle be- 
 low. The men had prepared a sort of pulpit by placing a 
 seaman's chest upright on its end. Two ship's lanterns 
 were suspended, one on each side of this rude pulpit, which 
 was secured by seamen sitting on each side and holding 
 the chest upright with their hands. The boatswain, an old
 
 CHAP. i. FAREWELL VISIT TO THE INDIANA. 31 
 
 man-of-war's man, sat by my side. The berths and fore- 
 castle were filled with sailors and firemen, who listened 
 with attention and seriousness to a plain discourse. The 
 captain was pleased with this conduct of the men, and both 
 he and the first officer said it was an unusual thing for sail- 
 ors to request to have religious worship among themselves. 
 
 Daylight, on the 7th of June, revealed to us the fertile 
 and romantic-looking island of Mauritius, which we ap- 
 proached from the southward, and, after proceeding along 
 its western shore, gazing with unspeakable delight on the 
 varied and picturesque forms of its lofty mountains or its 
 wide fields of sugar-cane, we cast anchor in the harbor of 
 Port Louis early in the forenoon, having been little more 
 than seven weeks since leaving England. On landing soon 
 afterward, we were cordially welcomed by Messrs. Le Brun, 
 and by the close of the day found ourselves comfortably 
 domiciled beneath the hospitable roof of Mr. Kelsey and his 
 amiable family. 
 
 Before the vessel in which we had sailed left Mauritius, I 
 paid a farewell visit to the captain, officers, and passengers, 
 and received from every individual the most cordial and af- 
 fectionate expressions of desire for my welfare. When I 
 left the saloon I found at the ship's side a number of the 
 inferior officers, firemen, and sailors, waiting to take leave 
 of me and to wish me God-speed. I received their willing 
 and hearty expressions of good-will as a reason for hope 
 .that some benefit had been derived from my intercourse 
 with them ; and, should it ever be my lot to make another 
 voyage, I shall think myself highly favored if I sail with a 
 commander equally able, attentive, and obliging, with offi- 
 cers and men as active and steady, and with fellow-passen- 
 gers as agreeable and kind-hearted as those on board the 
 Indiana. 
 
 The earliest efforts of Mr. Cameron and myself were di- 
 rected to ascertaining the actual state of Madagascar ; and
 
 32 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. i. 
 
 although, in reference to some objects of inquiry, the infor- 
 mation we obtained was distinct and conclusive, with re- 
 spect to others we found the most contradictory reports. 
 Among the rumors current at the time, was one in which 
 it was unhesitatingly affirmed that the Queen of Madagas- 
 car was dead, -and that her son had succeeded her; another 
 stated that the queen had abdicated in favor of the prince, 
 who had renounced Christianity as the condition of his re- 
 ceiving the crown. Other reports represented things as 
 much in the same state in which they had been for some 
 time, excepting that the people, though not inhospitable to 
 foreigners shipwrecked on their coast, were increasing their 
 defenses as if apprehensive of foreign attack. 
 
 Next to Messrs. Le Brun, the devoted missionary pastors 
 in the island of Mauritius, the Christian refugees from Mad- 
 agascar hastened to bid us welcome, and to give us all the 
 information they possessed respecting their country. From 
 them we learned that the young prince steadily maintained 
 his profession of the Christian faith ; that the Christians in 
 the country, though subject to great privation and suffering, 
 maintained their steadfastness and increased in numbers. 
 "We examined very carefully all the letters which had been 
 recently received from Madagascar, and found that ,the ex- 
 pectations of a beneficial change, slightly indicated as in 
 progress during the previous year, had not been realized, 
 and that the favorable tidings forwarded to England had not 
 been confirmed by those subsequently received. We had 
 not the slightest reason to doubt the veracity of the native 
 Christians in either island with regard to the accounts they 
 had transmitted. They had themselves received these re- 
 ports, and had perhaps been deceived by those on whom 
 they had depended ; while from internal evidence we were 
 led to doubt the genuineness of some of the documents 
 which had arrived from Madagascar. 
 
 The information we obtained from the merchants, who
 
 CHAP. i. DESIRED RENEWAL OF TRADE. 33 
 
 readily communicated what information they possessed, was 
 more vague and unsatisfactory, and few among them seem- 
 ed to place entire" confidence in any of the rumors in circu- 
 lation. All wished most earnestly for the renewal of the 
 trade, and expressed their hopes that our projected visit 
 might hasten this desired result. His excellency the gov- 
 ernor very frankly communicated to us all he knew on the 
 subject, and, deeply sensible of the advantages that would 
 accrue to the colony from the importation of cattle and oth- 
 er supplies from Madagascar, he was naturally anxious that 
 the prohibition on the trade should be removed, but could 
 take no steps toward the accomplishment of so desirable an 
 object. These views were shared by the colonial secretary, 
 and Major-general Sutherland, commander-in-chief of the 
 forces, who kindly expressed his earnest desire for the suc- 
 cess of our visit. 
 
 C
 
 34 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. 
 
 CHAPTEE H. 
 
 Departure from Port Louis. Stormy Voyage. Arrival at Tamatave. 
 Appearance of the Village. The Harbor-master and his Officers. Let- 
 ters sent to the Capital. Invitation to the Shore. Welcome from the 
 Officers and People. Native Custom-house. The Harbor-master's 
 Dwelling. Important Conversation with some of the chief Officers of 
 the Port respecting the Intentions of the English. Conversation respect- 
 ing the Christians. Curious Mode of taking Snuff. Analogies between 
 the Polynesian and Malagasy Languages. Appearance and Dress of the 
 People. The Trade of the Island. Feelings of the Native Christians. 
 Our Annoyances on board the Ship. New Plants and Flowers. The 
 Ouvirandra fenestralis. Letters from the Capital. Hospitality on Shore. 
 Departure from Tamatave. Arrival at Mauritius. 
 
 SOON" after midday on the llth of July, Mr. Cameron and 
 myself, having taken leave of our hospitable friends at Port 
 Louis, embarked on board the Gregorio, a small schoon- 
 er of about seventy tons' burden, which the merchants at 
 Mauritius had hired for the sole purpose of conveying to 
 Madagascar their memorial soliciting from the queen of that 
 country the opening of the trade, and in which vessel they 
 had generously given us a passage. The object sought by 
 this memorial was one of great importance to the colony, 
 and, inclusive of the names of the president and members 
 of the Chamber of Commerce, with whom it originated, it 
 had received the signatures of between two and three hund- 
 red of the merchants and others residing in Mauritius. 
 
 The day of our departure was excessively hot, but, as the 
 wind was fair and the water smooth, we passed swiftly be- 
 tween the lines of merchant- vessels riding at anchor on both 
 sides of the harbor, and, leaving the Lazaretto, where the 
 recently -arrived ships were performing quarantine, and the
 
 CHAP. n. VOYAGE TO MADAGASCAR. 35 
 
 bell buoy outside, we found ourselves, in less than an hour, 
 in the broad waters of the Indian Ocean. I could not help 
 noticing the comparatively quiet and easy manner in which 
 our little craft put out to sea, so different from the activity, 
 animation, and bustle on board the large and crowded 
 steamer. Our crew was soon mustered, as it consisted only 
 of a very juvenile captain, a mate, four seamen, a cook, and 
 a steward, in all eight souls, and ourselves as passengers. 
 Our captain was a native of one of the Sechelles, the mate 
 was a Frenchman from Bordeaux, our sailors natives of 
 Madagascar, our cook a Frenchman, and the steward a Cre- 
 ole from Mauritius. 
 
 As we proceeded from the land, we found that the wind, 
 though fair, had raised a considerable sea ; and the motion 
 of our little cockle-shell of a vessel was so rapid and violent, 
 as compared with that of the Indiana, that, though anx- 
 ious to keep on deck as long as possible, we soon became 
 excessively sea-sick. Indeed, I do not remember, in all my 
 voyages, ever suffering more from sea-sicknes than during 
 the early part of this passage to Madagascar. For the two 
 succeeding days I was scarcely able to leave my berth. In 
 the mean time our fair wind had died away ; and, our ves- 
 sel rolling violently in consequence of having nothing but 
 ballast on board, we scarcely moved through the water a 
 couple of miles in an hour. On the fifth day, toward even- 
 ing, a light and favorable breeze sprang up, which inspired 
 hopes of reaching our port in a day or two, as the passage 
 seldom occupies more than four or five days ; during the 
 night the ship's head was turned-northward in a direction 
 parallel with the coast, lest we should prove to be nearer the 
 land than was supposed. But the next morning was calm, 
 and we again lay all day long rolling heavily under a scorch- 
 ing sun, upon a sea as smooth as glass. Land was reported 
 as visible during the day, but at sunset the western horizon, 
 where, if at all, it should have appeared, presented an un-
 
 36 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR CHAP. n. 
 
 broken line of sea and sky. These circumstances forced 
 upon us the conviction that, although at one time it was 
 said we were only fifteen miles from the anchorage, and at 
 another that land was actually in sight, both captain and 
 mate were probably doing little more than guessing at our 
 position. 
 
 On the morning of the 17th we stood toward the land 
 with a fair wind, but, on approaching the coast about noon, 
 near a small island called Plumb Island, we found ourselves 
 about six or eight miles to the north of the entrance to the 
 port, with the wind and sea driving us still farther away. 
 We stood out to sea again for a couple of hours, and then 
 returned ; but finding ourselves, on nearing the land, still 
 farther from our port, with the wind increasing against us, 
 our vessel was once more turned toward the open sea. As 
 we sailed as near to the wind as possible, and the sea was 
 very rough, the motion of our light ship was exceedingly 
 violent, and the effect of this upon my own feelings was 
 heightened by the wretched accommodation on board, and 
 by my remembrance of having, in one of my former voy- 
 ages, been kept twenty-one days out of harbor in conse- 
 quence of having, in a heavy gale of wind, made the land 
 on the coast of New Holland four miles to leeward of the 
 port. 
 
 The following night, so far as regarded external circum- 
 stances, was miserable enough. The howling of the wind, 
 the dashing of the spray over our ship and into our cabin, 
 the rattling of seats and boxes about the floor, the banging 
 of cupboard-doors without fastenings, the flickering of a dim 
 dirty lamp swinging to and fro, and the frequent inspection 
 of the chart by the captain, made the hours of darkness pass 
 very heavily. But it was not in relation to my own person- 
 al experience alone that these circumstances imparted their 
 own dismal character to the tenor of my thoughts, for I 
 found myself reflecting on the cheerless manner in which
 
 CHAP. ii. APPEARANCE OF TAMATAVE. 37 
 
 the last hours of one of the devoted missionaries to Mada- 
 gascar, Mr. Jeffreys, were spent, who, after committing to the 
 deep his eldest child, died during a voyage from Madagas- 
 car to Mauritius in the miserable hold of a bullock-ship, 
 stretched on a mattress spread upon bags of rice, and sepa- 
 rated only by bags of rice from the cattle in the hold ; and, 
 although the circumstances in which our last hours may be 
 passed are of little consequence in comparison with the re- 
 sults to which they tend, I certainly felt at the time that I 
 should not like to pass my last night in such a cabin, or to 
 die under such circumstances. 
 
 At midnight our course was changed, and we steered 
 again toward the shore with the wind slightly favorable. 
 By eight o'clock the land was visible, notwithstanding clouds 
 and rain. At noon we were near enough to see the hollow 
 of the line of coast on which Tamatave is situated, and to 
 distinguish the white native flag floating over the battery ; 
 and about one o'clock on the 18th we cast anchor at a short 
 distance within the reefs, and about a mile and a half from 
 the village, grateful for that Divine protection through 
 which we had reached in safety our destined port. 
 
 The anchorage at Tamatave is little more than a road- 
 stead, protected by reefs, but exposed to the winds from the 
 east and the north. There is considerable space within the 
 reefs, and the holding ground is good. The village of Tam- 
 atave seemed to be built upon a point of land stretching into 
 the sea toward the south, which we afterward found to be 
 not more than three or four hundred yards wide, its surface 
 diversified by sand-hills thrown up by the wind or sea to the 
 height of fifteen or twenty feet above the ordinary level of 
 water. This low shore appeared generally covered with 
 brushwood, rushes, or grass, and the several species of pan- 
 danus near the beach toward the north, with a few tall cocoa 
 palms growing to the south of the anchorage, gave quite a 
 tropical character to its vegetation, though much less rich
 
 88 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. n. 
 
 and luxuriant than the verdant and beautiful bays among 
 the South Sea Islands. The appearance of some of the skulls 
 of- the English and French killed in the attack on this place 
 in 1845, and fixed on high poles not far from the place 
 where we had anchored, produced a singular and not very- 
 pleasant sensation, as for the first time I gazed on this re- 
 volting spectacle. 
 
 Shortly after we had anchored a large, clumsy single ca- 
 noe, destitute of outriggers, and paddled by a number of 
 men, came alongside, when a middle-aged man, followed by 
 three or four others, mounted the ship's side, and came into 
 the cabin. They had neither shoes nor stockings, but wore 
 white shirts under a cloth bound round their loins, with a 
 large white scarf, the native lamba, hanging in ample and 
 graceful folds over their shoulders, and broad-brimmed hats 
 of neatly-plaited grass or fine rushes. As soon as they had 
 entered, the chief of the party, who we understood was the 
 harbor-master or captain of the port, inquired in a very of- 
 ficial manner, speaking imperfect English, the name of the 
 ship, of the captain, mate, passengers, and crew, with the 
 object of our visit, etc. The answers to all these questions 
 were written down by one of his attendants, and he was ex- 
 plicitly informed that the vessel was not sent on a trading 
 voyage, but simply to convey the letter of the merchants of 
 Mauritius to the queen, and to wait her majesty's reply. 
 He^said, if it was only a letter, that had been sent before, 
 and the queen had returned her answer to the effect that no 
 trade could be allowed until the money required as com- 
 pensation for the insult and the wrong perpetrated in the 
 attack on the country in 1845 had been paid. He asked if 
 it was right to go to a country and shoot down the people 
 because we did not like their laws ? He soon informed us, 
 also, that he had been a member of the embassy sent to Eu- 
 rope in 1837 ; that he had visited France and England, and 
 knew that whoever went to reside in either of these coun-
 
 CHAP. it. VISIT OF POET OFFICERS. 39 
 
 tries must be subject to the laws of the country so long as 
 they remained there ; that the laws of their queen were the 
 laws of Madagascar, and if any one wanted to live there 
 they must be subject to the queen's laws ; if not, they must 
 leave the country. 
 
 This, and much more to the same effect, we did not at 
 tempt to dispute, but asked a few questions respecting the 
 general state of the country and people. When these of- 
 ficials left us, we sent to the governor the letter which Mr. 
 Cameron and I had written to the queen, asking permission 
 to pay a visit of friendship to the capital : a note at the 
 same time was sent to the governor, asking him to forward 
 our letters, and one which Mr. Cameron wrote to his friends 
 there, explaining more fully the object of our visit to An- 
 tananarivo. A number of letters were also sent on shore 
 for the French traders and some of the natives. The cap- 
 tain said he should only deliver the letter from the mer- 
 chants to an officer sent especially by the governor to re- 
 ceive it. The harbor-master said he might as well forward 
 it by them, as the governor would send one of the officers 
 then present for it. But as the captain said his instructions 
 were specific, to deliver it only to an officer sent by the 
 governor for that purpose, the party returned to the shore, 
 promising to consider a request we had made for fresh pro- 
 visions during the time we might have to wait for the 
 queen's reply to our letter. In about an hour, one of the 
 younger officers, having been sent by the governor, same 
 on board, and received from the captain the letter and me- 
 morial of the merchants, for which he wrote and signed, in 
 a good plain hand, a receipt in the native language. Mr. 
 Cameron was not recognized by any of the natives who 
 came on board, nor did the harbor-master remember hav- 
 ing seen me, though I had been frequently with him when 
 he was in England. 
 
 During the rest of this day crowds of people appeared at
 
 40 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. n. 
 
 intervals on the beach, but there was no farther communi- 
 cation between the shore and the ship ; and when the still 
 calm evening came, and the shadows of night were si- 
 lently spreading over the new and deeply-interesting scene, 
 I stood for a long time leaning over the side of our little 
 vessel, and gazing toward the distant mountains of the in- 
 terior, earnestly desiring that " O'er those gloomy hills of 
 darkness" a brighter light than of rising sun or natural day 
 might soon arise. The few flickering fires on the shore, 
 and the dull lights seen here and there among the native 
 dwellings, while they indicated the habitations of men, pre- 
 sented an aspect widely different from the thickly -peopled 
 and brightly-lighted shores of Port Louis or Table Bay. 
 
 The history of English intercourse with Madagascar, the 
 intensely-affecting results of the introduction of Christianity 
 among the people, the peculiarity of our own situation, the 
 multiplied memorials of the Divine goodness which arose 
 on the review of a long and widely-varied voyage now 
 mercifully brought to its close, the uncertainty of the fu- 
 ture, whether or not we should be permitted to land, the 
 light in which our visit would be regarded by the govern- 
 ment, and the effect it might have upon the circumstances 
 of those with whom we most deeply sympathized ; all these, 
 and other subjects of a similar kind, made thought active, 
 and led, I trust, to renewed confidence in Him who sub- 
 ordinates all events to his own purposes of mercy and 
 blessing. It was not until a late hour that I left the deck, 
 and, rocked in my narrow berth by the billows that rolled 
 in from the wide ocean without, sought repose and rest 
 until a new day should bring fresh cause for gratitude, and 
 perhaps for anxiety as well. 
 
 About nine o'clock on the following morning a white 
 flag was raised near the custom-house, inviting, as we were 
 given to understand, a communication from the ship ; our 
 boat was lowered, and the captain and mate proceeded to
 
 CHAP. ii. NATIVE CUSTOM-HOUSE. 41 
 
 the shore. They returned about noon, informing Mr. Cam- 
 eron and myself that the governor wished to see us. We 
 went on shore soon afterward, and, on landing, were met 
 by the officers whom we had seen on board the previous 
 day and some others, who cordially welcomed us, shaking 
 us frankly by the hand. A large crowd gathered round 
 us as the officers led the way to the custom-house, situated 
 under a cluster of tall cocoa-nut-trees, not far from the land- 
 ing-place. This building is a purely native structure, be- 
 tween thirty and forty feet long, and nearly as wide. The 
 walls are about twelve feet high, and composed of posts 
 fixed in the ground at unequal distances, the spaces between 
 being filled up with the thick strong leaf-stalks of the trav- 
 eler's-tree fixed upright between flat laths, each stalk being 
 about ten feet long. The thatch covering the steep roof 
 was composed of the leaves of the same tree, fastened with 
 native cord, and the rods fixed horizontally on the rafters ; 
 the floor was of sea-sand, partly covered with strongly- 
 woven rush matting, and partly floored with the bark or 
 hard outside of the traveler's-tree, which appeared to have 
 been taken off from the fibrous centre of the tree, and beat- 
 en out flat, so as to form a sort of hard, flat, cracked, yet 
 adhering board, fifteen or eighteen inches wide, and some- 
 times more than twenty feet in length. These bark-formed 
 boards were laid side by side on the sand, and, though not 
 nailed to cross rafters, seemed to lie even and firm. Eound 
 the sides and matted end of the house were fixed a number 
 of benches, on which we sat down and conversed freely 
 with those around us. 
 
 The harbor-master, who could speak a little English, and 
 to whom I made myself known as having met him in En- 
 gland, made inquiries about the affairs of Mauritius and 
 the Cape, and whether it was peace or war in Europe. He 
 also asked about France and England, and persons whom 
 he had met there Lord Palmerston among the rest. He
 
 42 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. n. 
 
 asked more than once about the theatres in London, which 
 seemed to have been objects of great attraction and wonder 
 to the several members of the embassy when there ; but I 
 found myself more at home in answering his questions, and 
 those of others who spoke in French, respecting the mis- 
 sionaries who had formerly been in Madagascar. In the 
 mean time they freely answered the questions asked by 
 Mr. Cameron in the native language respecting the officers 
 and others he had formerly known, and the general state 
 of affairs at the capital. 
 
 After remaining here some time, the harbor-master in- 
 vited us to his own dwelling, a short distance farther from 
 the shore. On arriving, we entered a large inclosure form- 
 ed with sticks or small poles, about an inch and a half in 
 diameter and eight or nine feet high, fixed upright in the 
 ground, and fastened together with a tough and fibrous 
 species of creeper. Part of this large inclosure was fenced 
 off as a cattle-fold ; other parts were occupied by the dwell- 
 ings of some of his assistants and the huts of his slaves, 
 while the rest was under cultivation. In this garden a few 
 plants of tobacco, some pine-apples, and a large quantity 
 of sweet potatoes were growing, and looked remarkably 
 well. Besides some very tall and graceful cocoa palms and 
 one or two species of pandanus, there were some fine trees 
 in the inclosure covered with fresh and shining leaves, 
 which added greatly to the charm of the place, not only by 
 their beautiful appearance, but by the depth and extent of 
 shade they afforded. One of these, apparently a Zizyphus 
 jujuba, bearing a small edible fruit, was remarkably fine, 
 as was also a species of betonica, and an indigenous citron, 
 of which there are two kinds peculiar to Madagascar, with 
 rich glossy foliage. 
 
 The house of the harbor-master was a well-constructed 
 native dwelling, about forty feet long, and between twenty 
 and thirty feet high, with a door in the centre and a win-
 
 CHAP. ii. PHOTOGRAPH OF A NATIVE DWELLING. 43 
 
 dow on each side, the whole front shaded by a broad ve- 
 randa, and the house thatched with the leaves of the trav- 
 eler's-tree. The floor of the veranda, as well as the house, 
 was formed of thick planks or boards neatly joined, and 
 raised a foot and a half above the ground. On a subse- 
 quent occasion, when the chief was sitting under the ve- 
 randa, and his aide-de-camp waiting in attendance outside, 
 I obtained a photograph of this, the first native dwelling 
 
 HARBOR-MASTER'S HOOBE, TAMATAVK. 
 
 which I had entered in Madagascar. The walls inside 
 were covered with rofia cloth, and a fine large mat was 
 spread on the floor. A neatly-made four-post bedstead, 
 covered with fine sleeping-mats, stood in one corner ; choice 
 cooking utensils in another ; bags of rice and stores, with
 
 44 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. n. 
 
 materials for making mats, and native and European weap- 
 ons, occupied other parts of the dwelling. In the centre 
 was a table of native workmanship, covered with a white 
 cloth, on which refreshments were placed ; and there were 
 a number of chairs and native seats made of matting, like 
 high square ottomans, in different parts of the room. Sev- 
 eral women were occupied in one part of the room when 
 we arrived, but they retired as soon as the chief entered. 
 
 When we were seated the company resumed their inqui- 
 ries respecting England, France, and America, stating that 
 they had entered into commercial relations with traders from 
 the latter country,, one of whom was there at present, wait- 
 ing for the arrival of his ship. 
 
 While we were thus occupied an officer with several at- 
 tendants entered the house. He was a tall stout man, be- 
 tween fifty and sixty years of age, with features resembling 
 those of a South Sea Islander. On the upper part of his 
 person he wore a fine figured shirt, with upright vandyck 
 collar and wristbands of the same pattern, and, loosely 
 thrown over this, a large and handsome silk scarf or lamba. 
 The centre of the lamba consisted of broad stripes of pur- 
 ple, scarlet, pink, and yellow, edged with a border tastefully 
 wrought in a kind of open-work exhibiting a curious pat- 
 tern in yellow and scarlet silk. He had neither shoes nor 
 stockings, but wore a blue cloth cap, the shade edged with 
 silver, and the crown surrounded by a broad band of gold- 
 lace. Two of his attendants carried swords, one like a 
 heavy cavalry weapon, the other with a straight and small- 
 er blade. Our friend the harbor-master introduced him by 
 name, as Rainibehevitra, apparently meaning Father of 
 Great Thoughts, thirteenth honor, second in command, and 
 chief judge of Tamatave. He very frankly offered his 
 hand, and, when seated, said he came from the governor to 
 bid_us welcome in his name and to express his regret that 
 he could not see us at present. After a short general con-
 
 CHAP. ii. CONFERENCE WITH THE CHIEFS. 45 
 
 versation respecting rail-roads, steam-ships, the electric tele- 
 graph, and other things of which he had heard, he dismissed 
 his attendants, and, sending all out of the house excepting 
 the chief officers, entered, in a low tone of voice scarcely 
 audible, into a very grave and earnest conversation with 
 Mr. Cameron. In reply to his inquiry as to the real object 
 of our visit, he was informed that it was, as we had ex- 
 pressed in our letter to the queen and officers, to pay a 
 friendly visit to the queen and chiefs, to converse about 
 things for the good of the country. That if the queen chose 
 to receive us, we should proceed ; but, if not, return in the 
 same vessel. In reference to the attack on the country in 
 1845 he said, Why did the Queen of England treat them 
 so, or allow them to be so treated ? and if it was done with- 
 out her knowledge, why not make some reparation ? Mr. 
 Cameron replied that the Queen of England probably did 
 not know what was done until some time afterward, and 
 had expressed her desire to be friendly by sending, in 1849, 
 a British admiral, Dacres, with a letter and presents, thus 
 holding out the hand of friendship by the highest officer 
 she could employ in such a service ; and that, as both let- 
 ters and presents had been refused, the English were wait- 
 ing till the Malagasy should intimate some willingness to 
 be friendly. He said they could not accept the terms on 
 which the friendship was at that time offered ; and he then 
 asked what was the object of the merchants in sending the 
 memorial to the queen, who had already stated the compen- 
 sation she required for the injury done. He was told that we 
 had no instructions from the merchants, but believed their 
 object was to make known, in the most honorable manner, 
 to the queen herself, their desires that the trade might be re- 
 newed, and to be made acquainted exactly with the wishes 
 of her majesty. He said the queen had refused to entertain 
 a proposal said to have been recently made from the island 
 of Bourbon to receive a certain sum of money to open the 
 ports.
 
 46 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. n. 
 
 The judge then asked whether the English had any in- 
 tention of attacking Madagascar, as they had been informed 
 that a fleet was coming against them. They were assured 
 that we had never heard of any such intention, and did not 
 believe there existed any foundation whatever for the re- 
 port. They then inquired about the state of feeling be- 
 tween England and America, and said they had heard that 
 the latter were about to invade the territories of the English 
 in India, and, adverting again to the friendship of the En- 
 glish, they all said it would be good for them and for the 
 people at Mauritius if friendly and commercial intercourse 
 were restored. 
 
 After other minor topics had been discussed the judge 
 rose to return ; and we walked in the same direction to the 
 house of Mr. Provint, a French merchant residing at Tama- 
 tave, by whom we were welcomed ; and a short time after- 
 ward we took our leave. The judge accompanied us to the 
 road, and, with much apparent good- will, gave us his part- 
 ing salutation, at the same time bidding some of the officers 
 attend us to the beach. There was no suitable conveyance 
 at hand belonging to the ship ; but the officer in charge of 
 a large government Canoe lying on the beach placed it at 
 our disposal, and sent a strong crew to convey us safely to 
 our vessel, which we reached soon after sunset. 
 
 The chiefs appeared to have been pleased with the oppor- 
 tunity of conversing freely with persons in whose state- 
 ments they felt they could fully confide, and whom they 
 acknowledged they regarded as their friends ; and we could 
 not help desiring that this occasion might prove the earnest 
 of many interviews equally satisfactory and on more im- 
 portant subjects. 
 
 The next morning fresh provisions were readily allowed 
 for the ship, and toward noon we went again on shore, and 
 were met by our friend the harbor-master, whom we ac- 
 companied to his house, where we walked with him over
 
 CHAP. ii. CURIOUS MODE OF TAKING SNUFF. 47 
 
 his garden. He informed us that our letters had been sent 
 to the capital on the preceding day, and that answers might 
 be expected in fifteen or sixteen days. He appeared anx- 
 ious to know the nature of the feelings entertained toward 
 his country by the government and people at Mauritius, 
 and expressed himself very desirous that all impediments 
 to the reopening of the trade might be removed. 
 
 Leaving his garden, we walked through a part of the vil- 
 lage, and reached the custom-house, which seemed to be a 
 place of general resort for a number of the residents and 
 strangers. We conversed some time with the chief custom- 
 house officer, who could make himself understood in French. 
 He spoke of the native Christians, and said that the punish- 
 ments inflicted the last time they were discovered were so 
 severe, and so many had been put to death, that but few 
 besides the prince and some of the queen's relations remain- 
 ed. He said he greatly regretted the closing of the schools, 
 and often spoke with evident satisfaction of his own son 
 having gained a prize or honor at one of the latest exam- 
 inations which were held before public teaching was discon- 
 tinued, adding, that all the chiefs earnestly desired educa- 
 tion for their children, and that the youth of the country 
 were themselves eager after knowledge. 
 
 I was much amused on this occasion, and often afterward, 
 with the manner in which the chiefs and people generally 
 indulge their taste for an article resembling snuff, a native 
 manufacture, comprising other ingredients besides the pul- 
 verized leaf of tobacco, such as salt, and the ashes of a na- 
 tive herb, which mixture is regularly sold in the markets. 
 The retinue of every chief or officer of any rank includes a 
 bearer of what we should call his snuff-box. Those officers 
 who attend on a superior, or are unattended by their own 
 slaves, carry this article of luxury in some part of their 
 dress, frequently suspended from the girdle, and concealed 
 under the folds of their lamba; and we sometimes met a
 
 48 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. n. 
 
 traveler with his snuff-box suspended from his neck, who 
 seemed almost destitute of every thing else except the most 
 scanty clothing. On the occasion of our first interview with 
 the chief with whom we were now conversing, whenever he 
 required the agreeable stimulus, which was tolerably fre- 
 quent, the attendant slave, who was usually squatted be- 
 hind him, presented to him a short piece of bamboo cane, 
 about nine inches or a foot long, and less than an inch in 
 diameter, beautifully polished, and ornamented with rings. 
 Into the end of this cylindrical case a circular piece of cane 
 or wood, attached to a long tassel of silk threads, was neatly 
 fitted. When the slave had removed this ingeniously-con- 
 trived stopper or lid, the chief took the cylinder, and, shak- 
 ing a small quantity, about half a tea-spoonful, into the palm 
 of his hand, he then, by a quick jerk of the hand, tossed the 
 powder with great dexterity on to his tongue, without touch- 
 ing his lips with his hand or its contents. I do not remem- 
 ber ever seeing any of the natives smoking tobacco, but this 
 use of it is universal ; and, though some deposit it in a dif- 
 ferent manner in the mouth, it was usually, as in this in- 
 stance, jerked upon the tongue. 
 
 I now occupied myself in testing my progress in the lan- 
 guage by asking the names of different objects, which I 
 wrote down as the natives pronounced them ; and I was 
 much struck with the perfect identity of the Malagasy and 
 the Eastern Polynesians in the names of many of the things 
 most common to both. One of these was a cocoa-nut-tree, 
 and to my surprise they pronounced the name precisely as 
 a South Sea Islander would have done. The same was the 
 case with the pandanus or vacoua, one of the most common 
 trees on the coast both of Madagascar and Tahiti ; also the 
 word for flower, and the names of several parts of the hu- 
 man body. The numerals were also, with but slight varia- 
 tion, identically the same. The discovery of this resem- 
 blance between the languages spoken by two communities
 
 CHAP. ii. THE VILLAGE OF TAMATAVE. 49 
 
 so widely separated from each other, besides seeming to 
 point out the source whence Madagascar had derived at 
 least part of its present population, promised me great facil- 
 ity in acquiring their language. This promise, however, 
 was not realized, for I found afterward that, though in many 
 respects retaining the same simplicity of structure and ar- 
 rangement, it was in some instances more defective, but in 
 others, especially in the structure and application of its 
 verbs, far more extensive and complex than the Polynesian 
 language. 
 
 The village of Tamatave did not equal my expectations. 
 Almost the only good houses are those belonging to the 
 foreign residents and Hova officers. The dwellings of the 
 people are of an inferior kind, few of them new, and many 
 much dilapidated. We saw also but few people, and, on 
 inquiring the cause, were told that, though the population 
 was about 3000, most of the men had been removed to Hi- 
 vondro, a place about nine miles distant to the southward, 
 where they had been employed for some time past in erect- 
 ing a fort or stockade as a defense against the hostile visit 
 which they had been told might be expected from a large 
 number of English ships of war. 
 
 As regards the mischief produced by unfounded reports, 
 the Malagasy are much to be pitied. Shut out from all in- 
 tercourse with the rest of the world, they are extremely lia- 
 ble to be imposed upon by such reports, and to suffer se- 
 verely in consequence, as was the case in the present in- 
 stance. So great was their concern about the arrival of a 
 hostile fleet of probably thirty ships, that a number of troops 
 had been sent from the capital on the occasion, and such 
 was the haste with which they had been sent, the fatigue of 
 the service, the want of proper supplies, and the effect of the 
 climate, for it was in the unhealthy season, that numbers of 
 the men, and, it was said, one fourth of the officers had died. 
 
 The Betsimasaraka, or people belonging to this part of the 
 
 D
 
 50 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. n. 
 
 country, a hardy, robust, and somewhat athletic people, were 
 the only laborers we saw, and many of them were slaves. 
 The Hovas, their conquerers and masters, showed all the 
 activity, enterprise, intelligence, and acquisitiveness belong- 
 ing to their race, and every where exercised the prerogatives 
 of victors ; but, excepting when employed in government 
 work, the labor of the servile classes did not seem to be ex- 
 cessive or severe, and scarcity of food, we were told, was not 
 often experienced in this part of the country. Yet I was 
 astonished at the small number of children, for there seemed 
 to be scarcely any large families, few with more than two or 
 three children, and many who were childless. 
 
 The dress of the people, in general, did not indicate a state 
 of prosperity. The cessation of commercial intercourse with 
 Mauritius and Bourbon was probably felt more severely by 
 the people at Tamatave than by those of any other part of 
 the island, and may have produced the paucity of articles of 
 European clothing in this, the principal sea-port, so apparent 
 among all classes at the period of our visit. We found the 
 people generally good-natured, and very anxious to hear 
 about the countries we had come from, as well as to talk 
 about their own ; willing, at the same time, to oblige us so 
 far as the regulations enforced by the government in respect 
 to Europeans would allow, and apparently glad that, in ref- 
 erence to our visit, the strict prohibition of communication 
 had been somewhat relaxed. 
 
 . I had taken out with me a number of copies of the Illus- 
 trated London News, some exhibiting our sovereign, Queen 
 Victoria, as appearing on public occasions, and those exhib- 
 iting the funeral of the late Duke of Wellington. Mr. Cam- 
 eron one day took several of these on shore, with which 
 the people were greatly delighted, and some of the highest 
 officers requested permission to keep them until the follow- 
 ing day. No picture among those taken on shore seem- 
 ed to attract greater notice than that representing the late
 
 CHAP. ii. THE TRADE OF THE ISLAND. 51 
 
 duke presenting a birth-day present to one of the royal 
 children. 
 
 The chief topic of conversation, however, with the people 
 generally had reference to the opening of the trade. They 
 said there were large quantities of rice accumulated in the 
 neighborhood of the ports, that the country was full of fat 
 cattle, and could supply any number required, while poul- 
 try of all kinds was equally abundant ; but that cloth, and 
 other articles of European manufacture were scarce. All 
 trade with the English or French, other than those resid- 
 ing in the island, was prohibited ; and among the natives 
 themselves we were told that a good ox could be bought in 
 the market for five Spanish dollars ; that in the interior of 
 the country eight or ten turkeys could be purchased for one 
 dollar, valued at about 4s. 2c?., and a score or a couple of 
 dozen fowls for the same sum. Native productions had 
 multiplied during the cessation of commerce, while the stop- 
 page of the supply of money from Mauritius and Bourbon 
 had made that article exceedingly scarce. The trade with 
 America had somewhat increased since the rupture with the 
 Europeans ; and we met with Mr. Mack, an American con- 
 nected with a mercantile house in New York, who told us 
 that he had been some years in the country, chiefly on the 
 western coast, and had a contract with the government to 
 take all the gum, and beeswax, and India-rubber which 
 might be collected for several years. Arms and ammuni- 
 tion, it was stated, were the chief, though not the only arti- 
 cles which the native government were to receive in return. 
 It is not, however, probable that the trade with America 
 will increase to any great extent, as the horned cattle and 
 rice, the two articles of export which Madagascar can sup- 
 ply in greatest abundance, are not those for which America 
 is likely to furnish any demand ; and the present policy of 
 the native government seems rather directed to the subju- 
 gation of the disaffected and independent tribes within the
 
 52 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. n. 
 
 island than to the development of its resources for external 
 commerce; for, although the capture of the herds belonging 
 to those tribes who may be conquered or dispersed may 
 increase the number of disposable cattle possessed by the 
 Hovas, it can only be a temporary increase, to be afterward 
 followed by greater deficiency. 
 
 But, besides those who were eager for the arrival of the 
 money and the articles of foreign manufacture which the 
 opening of intercourse with other countries would bring to 
 Madagascar, there were others deeply interested in higher 
 and more important objects, eager after more valuable sup- 
 plies, food for the mind and the heart ; and, though we could 
 not satisfy their wants, our frequent intercourse with them 
 was intensely interesting, and sometimes deeply affecting. 
 Much important information was received from them, and 
 our best advice and kindest Christian sympathy appeared 
 to be both welcome and cheering. On one occasion, when 
 one of the friendly natives whom we had expected to see 
 entered the place where we were sitting, after looking ear- 
 nestly at each of us for a few moments, and almost mechan- 
 ically giving us his hand, there came over his whole coun- 
 tenance such an expression as I had never before witnessed 
 in any human being. It was not ecstasy, it was not terror, 
 and yet an apparent blending of both, marked by an inten- 
 sity of feeling but rarely seen. During the whole interview, 
 which was long, there was a strange uneasiness mingled 
 with evident satisfaction, which it would be difficult to de- 
 scribe. It would be unsuitable to make any mention of his 
 name or rank, or of the present circumstances of some, or 
 the tragical end, on account of their faith, of others most 
 closely connected with him. 
 
 Many others were often deeply affected, sometimes even 
 to tears, when they found us unable to supply what they 
 had so long and so earnestly desired. I met one day, in the 
 house of a hospitable and friendly trader, a native chief,
 
 CHAP. u. ANNOYANCES ON BOARD SHIP. 53 
 
 who, after making inquiries respecting several of the mis- 
 sionaries who had formerly resided in Madagascar, and tell- 
 ing me he had been the scholar of one of them, took my 
 hand, and, pressing it between both his own, expressed in 
 French his pleasure in seeing me, and uttered, in the most 
 earnest and deliberate manner, his fervent desire that the 
 blessing of God might rest upon me. After he had left us, 
 I asked my host if he knew who or what he was. He said 
 he did not, that he was from the interior, and had only re- 
 cently come to Tamatave. 
 
 When on shore, we were welcomed to the hospitality of 
 M. Provint, a French merchant, and also visited M. de 
 Lastelle, who came to Tamatave for a few days while we 
 were there. The heavy rains, however, occasionally detain- 
 ed us on board our vessel whole days together, and then 
 our imprisonment was irksome in the extreme. Our cabin 
 was small, not more than nine or ten feet long, seven feet 
 wide, exclusive of our berths, each about eighteen inches 
 more, and seven feet high, being half above and half below 
 the deck. There was neither sky-light nor window, but 
 small apertures, with sliding covers on the sides, to admit 
 air. All the light entered by the door, so that when it rain- 
 ed, and the slides were closed, and the door shut, we were 
 in darkness, and almost stifled. Our captain and mate were 
 inveterate smokers, and the fumes of their tobacco, as they 
 lay in their berths smoking, sometimes before they rose in\ 
 the morning and after they lay down at night, as well as at 
 other times, were to Mr. Cameron and myself, who could 
 neither of us smoke, unpleasant in the extreme. Our small 
 cabin, eating-room, sitting-room, smoking-room, drinkihg- 
 room for all, was any thing but clean. There was a rickety 
 table fixed in the middle, and on this tobacco was cut up 
 for smoking, and the ashes of the pipe knocked out; the 
 wine, rum, coffee, or soup spilled on it; the melted wax 
 also dropped upon it, in which the candle was fixed up-
 
 54 VISITS TO MADAGASCAE. CHAP. n. 
 
 right when a candle was needed; while the oil dropping 
 from a dirty lamp suspended from the top rendered it quite 
 filthy, and it was never washed except by the rain beating 
 in at the door. 
 
 Our quarters had never been very comfortable, but after 
 we had been in harbor for some time our captain went to an 
 island near the reef and brought away a number of demi- 
 johns of rum, which had been buried in the sand there some 
 tune before by a smuggling vessel from Mauritius; and, 
 after this, sometimes our officers drank very freely and got 
 to fighting on the deck. Eaw rum was sometimes given to 
 the men in a large basin, after which the yelling, quarreling, 
 and tumult that followed made us really apprehensive for 
 our safety in harbor, to say nothing of the prospect of our 
 voyage back to Mauritius. 
 
 I used to think that a voyage in a steamer like the In- 
 diana would, from the many comforts it afforded, tend to 
 spoil a missionary going to an uncivilized country ; but a 
 voyage in such a vessel as the Gregorio would most ef- 
 fectually counteract any such tendency. We certainly saw 
 human nature under a phase somewhat new to ourselves, 
 and probably different from most of its ordinary manifesta- 
 tions. Its development here was sometimes varied by our 
 steward, or cabin servant, who was quite an original, a na- 
 tive of Mauritius, twenty-five or thirty years of age, healthy, 
 strong, and good-looking. He had been servant to some 
 English officers, of whose integrity and character he appear- 
 ed to have formed a high estimate. He professed to be a 
 Protestant, and was, in his way, at times very devout, read- 
 ing, and sometimes praying audibly, or silently, in one cor- 
 ner of our little dirty cabin, before stretching himself on the 
 floor and folding his little dog Beauty in his arms as a means 
 of composing himself to sleep. Hi a knowledge of languages, 
 besides his native Creole, consisted in a little English, which 
 he was frequently using, a little Bengalee, and a little Mala-
 
 CHAP. ii. NEW PLANTS AND FLOWERS. 55 
 
 gasy. He was very fond of having his own way, and gen- 
 erally obtained it ; and equally prepossessed in favor of his 
 own opinion, which he reluctantly surrendered, and never 
 without giving valid reasons why it should have been fol- 
 lowed. 
 
 Whenever the weather was favorable, we always spent as 
 much of the day as possible on shore, and always found 
 much enjoyment in noticing the rich, beautiful, and some- 
 times new forms of vegetation which covered the land. I 
 met with no bulbs, but probably it was their season of rest ; 
 several beautiful varieties of acacia, especially the yellow- 
 flowering Acacia Indica, grew every where most luxuriantly. 
 Also a dwarf solanum, with bright blue and yellow flowers, 
 prickly leaves, and globular yellow berries about an inch in 
 diameter. I frequently met with the lively little vinca or 
 Caiharanihus roseus, not with pale, lanky-stalked, and sickly- 
 looking yellow leaves, as we sometimes see them in stoves 
 at home, but thick-stalked, dwarf, bushy, dark-leaved plants, 
 every twig of which was terminated with perfectly formed 
 and deep rose-colored flowers. I noticed also several spe- 
 cies of what appeared to me to be Gardenia, some in blos- 
 som ; also a beautiful little grassy-like plant with pale blue 
 flowers, greatly resembling the wild forget-me-not. There 
 were many kinds of hibiscus, both herbaceous and woody, 
 and the ricinus, or castor-oil plant, both the purple and green 
 variety. The neighborhood of Tamatave appeared rich in 
 indigo plants, of which there were two or three varieties, 
 one with small dark-colored leaves and long spikes of red- 
 dish pink flowers. 
 
 Among the trees, I noticed the aleurites, or candle-nut, 
 with which I had been familiar in the South Sea Islands, 
 and one or two species of Eugenia. The soil on which they 
 grew was little better than pure sand, and the trees were 
 dwarfish and stiff. But I was most delighted with the few 
 Orchidaceous plants which I obtained. Among these were
 
 56 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. n. 
 
 Angrcecum eburneum or A. superbum, and the rare and beau- 
 tiful Angrcecum sesquipedale. Plants of each of these I suc- 
 ceeded in bringing safely to Mauritius, and subsequently to 
 England. The two latter are, I believe, new to this coun- 
 try, and the sesquipedale very distinct in its habit of growth, 
 having its broad bluish-green leaves of thin fine texture 
 inserted very closely together in the stalk, and slightly and 
 gracefully curved toward the tip, and its large waxy, creamy- 
 yellow flowers, four or five on a stalk, bending in a line 
 nearly as horizontal as the leaves, and differing in this re- 
 spect equally from the habit of the Angrcecum caudatum, and 
 Angrcecum eburneum or A. superbum. But the greatest pecu- 
 liarity of this flower is its long fleshy spur or tail, one of 
 which depending from a flower I measured, and found to be 
 fourteen inches in length, thus nearly approaching the foot 
 and a half to which it owes its name. 
 
 I often saw the Angrcecum sesquipedale afterward, but never 
 met with it in the higher and cooler regions of the country, 
 only in the lower and hottest districts ; and there it was by 
 no means so abundant as the Angrcecum superbum, which is 
 a splendid Orchid. The Angrcecum sesquipedale. does not 
 grow in the moist and thickly-wooded parts of the lower 
 districts of the island, but generally on the straggling trees 
 along the edges of the forest, or in parts where the trees are 
 only thinly spread over the country. It seemed to grow 
 most frequently on the driest parts of the trunks and branches 
 of thinly-leaved trees, and was but seldom seen near the 
 ground. The largest plants were found about twelve or 
 twenty feet from the ground, and smaller ones higher up. 
 It appeared to grow most frequently where there was plenty 
 of light and air. The leaves were neither numerous nor 
 large ; and in its native state the plant presented a starved 
 appearance and straggling habit. In this state the flowers 
 were abundant, and deeper in color than when growing in 
 the shade. The roots are not matted and succulent like
 
 CHAP. ii. THE ANGK^ECUM SESQUIPEDALE. 57 
 
 those of A. superbum, but few in number, separate, long, and 
 wiry, frequently running down the outside of the tree on 
 which they grow twelve or eighteen feet or more ; and so 
 tough in themselves, and adhering so tenaciously to the bark 
 of the tree, that a considerable amount of force was required 
 to break or detach them. 
 
 I once found the trunk of a tree lying quite rotten on 
 the ground, and Angrcecum sesquipedale growing at inter- 
 vals along its entire length. The roots, which had pene- 
 trated the decayed vegetable fibre of the tree, were com- 
 paratively white, short, and fleshy ; the leaves larger, of a 
 darker green, and more succulent ; but there were no flow- 
 ers. The flowers last a long time, and are objects of great 
 beauty. The aspect and habits of the plants sent home 
 appear much altered for the better. The plants placed in 
 moss in pots are more compact in habit, the leaves larger 
 and of a better color, the flowers equal to any I saw in 
 Madagascar, and, instead of the long wiry roots, short, thick, 
 plump, green roots, as large as those of Aerides crispum. 
 
 This rare and beautiful angrsecum flowered in the early 
 part of the past year ; and the following account of the 
 plant, with a figure and scientific description of the flower, 
 was shortly afterward published by Doctor Lindley.* 
 
 * "The only original account that we have hitherto had of this extra- 
 ordinary plant, consists of a figure and a few words of description published, 
 in 1822, by Du Petit Thouars, in his 'History of the Plants found in Mada- 
 gascar, the Isle of France, and Bourbon.' His statement is, that it grows 
 in Madagascar only, where it flowers in the month of August ; that its stem 
 is eighteen inches high, with close ribbon-shaped two-lobed leaves, a foot 
 long by one and a half inches broad ; and that its flowers are very large 
 and white. To this he adds some technical matter unnecessary to be re- 
 printed. He called it sesquipedalian, because its flowers were a foot and a 
 half long. 
 
 ' ' From the time that the existence of this noble plant was known, it has 
 been the anxious wish of Europeans to procure it for cultivation ; and at 
 last, at the end of thirty-five years, the object has been gained. The Rev. 
 Mr. Ellis, in his visit to Madagascar, met with it in the forests of that isl-
 
 ",8 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. n. 
 
 But the most rare and choice botanical acquisition which 
 I made during this visit was the beautiful aquatic plant, 
 Ouvirandra fenestralis, which Sir W. J. Hooker designates 
 "one of the most curious of nature's vegetable produc- 
 tions," and which he has since described as the water yam 
 or lace leaf. Dr. Lindley had drawn my attention to this 
 and other Madagascar plants before my departure, and had 
 shown me a drawing of it in the work of Du Petit Thouars. 
 At Mauritius, M. Bojer, a distinguished naturalist, who had 
 formerly resided at Madagascar, very frankly and kindly 
 informed me of the localities in which the plants I was 
 anxious to obtain were most likely to be found. From the 
 work of Du Petit Thouars in M. Bojer's possession, I copied 
 the ouvirandra in a size rather larger than the engraving, 
 and, by exhibiting this to the natives, at length found one 
 man who knew where it grew. His master, who had shown 
 
 and, and, having succeeded in sending home three plants in a living state. 
 one of them flowered magnificently at Hoddesden during his renewed ab- 
 sence from England ; when Mr. Ellis favored us with a flower for examin- 
 ation, and an extremely clever sketch of the specimen, showing its manner 
 of growth. 
 
 " The plant forms a stem about eighteen inches high, covered with long 
 leathery leaves in two ranks like Vanda tricolor, and its allies ; but they 
 have a much more beautiful appearance, owing to a drooping habit, and a 
 delicate bloom which clothes their surface. From the axils of the upper- 
 most of these leaves appear short stiff flower-stalks, each bearing three, and 
 sometimes five flowers, extending seven inches in breadth and the same in 
 height. They are furnished with a firm, curved, tapering, tail -like spur, 
 about fourteen inches long. When first open, the flower is slightly tinged 
 with green ; except the lip, which is always pure white ; after a short time 
 the green disappears, and the whole surface acquires the softest waxy tex- 
 ture, and perfect whiteness. In this condition they remain, preserving all 
 their delicate beauty for more than five weeks. Even before they expand, 
 the greenish buds, which are three inches long, have a very noble appear- 
 ance. 
 
 ' ' Of this superb plant, the largest-flowered of all the Orchids, we under- 
 stand that the only specimens in the country are in the possession of Mr. 
 Ellis and Mr. Veitch." Gardener's Chron., April 11, 1857.
 
 CHAP. n. THE OUVIRANDKA FENESTRALIS. 59 
 
 me many acts of kindness, allowed him to go and search 
 for it, and after two or three days he told me he had found 
 it growing in a stream, but that there were so many croco- 
 diles in the water that he could not get it. The late rains, 
 it was said, had made them more numerous at that particu- 
 lar place. At length he brought me a fine lot of plants in 
 excellent condition, and I was glad to reward him for his 
 trouble, and to take them immediately under my own 
 charge. 
 
 The natives describe this plant as growing in running 
 streams. The root or rhizome is about the size of a man's 
 thumb in thickness, and six or nine inches long, often branch- 
 ing in diiferent directions like the roots of the ginger or tur- 
 meric, but in one continuous growth, not a succession of dis- 
 tinct formations attached at the termination of one and the 
 commencement of another. The root is composed of a white, 
 fleshy substance, apparently without large or tough fibres, 
 and is covered with a somewhat thick light-brown skin. I 
 was informed that it also grew in places which were dry at 
 certain seasons of the year ; that the leaves then died down, 
 but the root, buried in the mud, retained its vitality, and, 
 when the water returned, fresh leaves burst forth. The na- 
 tives spoke of it as tenacious of life, and said that wherever 
 the earth around even the smallest portion of it remained 
 moist that portion would put forth leaves when again cov- 
 ered with water. This plant is not only extremely curious, 
 but also very valuable to the natives, who, at certain seasons 
 of the year, gather it as an article of food, the fleshy root, 
 when cooked, yielding a farinaceous substance resembling 
 the yam. Hence its native name, ouvirandrano, literally, 
 yam of the water, ouvi in the Malagasy and Polynesian lan- 
 guages signifying yam, and rano in the former signifying 
 water. 
 
 The ouvirandra is not only a rare and curious, but a sin- 
 gularly beautiful plant, both in structure and color. From
 
 60 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. n. 
 
 the several crowns of the branching root, growing often a 
 foot or more deep in the water, a number of graceful leaves, 
 nine or ten inches long, and two or three inches wide, spread 
 out horizontally just beneath the surface of the water. The 
 flower-stalks rise from the centre of the leaves, and the 
 branching or forked flower is curious ; but the structure of 
 the leaf is peculiarly so, and seems like a living fibrous 
 skeleton rather than an entire leaf. The longitudinal fibres 
 extend in curved lines along its entire length, and are united 
 by thread-like fibres or veins, crossing them at right angles 
 from side to side, at a short distance from each other. The 
 whole leaf looks as if composed of fine tendrils, wrought 
 after a most regular pattern, so as to resemble a piece of 
 bright-green lace or open needle-work. Each leaf rises from 
 the crown on the root like a short, delicate-looking, pale- 
 green or yellow fibre, gradually unfolding its feathery-look- 
 ing sides, and increasing its size as it spreads beneath the 
 water. The leaves in their several stages of growth pass 
 through almost every gradation of color, from a pale yellow 
 to a dark-olive green, becoming brown or even black before 
 they finally decay; air-bubbles of considerable size frequent- 
 ly appearing under the full-formed and healthy leaves. It 
 is scarcely possible to imagine any object of the kind more 
 attractive and beautiful than a full-grown specimen of this 
 plant, with its dark-green leaves forming the limit of a circle 
 two or three feet in diameter, and in the transparent water 
 within that circle presenting leaves hi every stage of devel- 
 opment, both as to color and size. Nor is it the least curi- 
 ous to notice that these slender and fragile structures, appa- 
 rently not more substantial than the gossamer, and flexible 
 as a feather, still possess a tenacity and wiriness which al- 
 low the delicate leaf to be raised by the hand to the surface 
 of the water without injury. 
 
 I succeeded in conveying this plant safely to Mauritius, 
 where it was preserved for more than a year, and seemed to
 
 OtmBANDBA FBXESTBAL18, OB LATTICE-UEAB PLANT.
 
 CHAP. n. LETTERS FEOM THE CAPITAL. 63 
 
 thrive best in running water at a temperature of about 74. 
 I was happy to present specimens of it to M. Bojer, and to 
 Mr. Duncan, the director of the Koyal Botanical Gardens at 
 Pamplemouses. At the Cape of Good Hope, Mr. M 'Gibbon 
 kindly took charge of it during my absence on a journey 
 of nearly five months into the interior, and I willingly left 
 a plant in the botanic gardens there. Since my return to 
 England, I have had much satisfaction in presenting speci- 
 mens of this rare plant to the Royal Gardens at Kew, to the 
 gardens of the Horticultural Society at Chiswick, and to 
 those at Regent's Park, and to the Crystal Palace. 
 
 The plants at these places, especially those at Kew, ap- 
 pear to thrive remarkably well, the leaves being equal in 
 size and beauty to any which I saw in Madagascar. Among 
 a few comparatively small plants which I grew in a glass 
 milk-pan, with but a small depth of earth, one flowered dur- 
 ing the past summer. The seed ripened quickly and fell 
 upon the earth at the bottom of the pan, where it soon ger- 
 minated, and in the same pan with the parent plant seven 
 or eight young seedling plants are growing with pale green 
 leaves half an inch long. The length of the leaf-stalks 
 seems to be regulated by the depth of the water ; when this 
 is shallow these are short, as seen in the opposite engrav- 
 ing, but when the water is deep the stalks are long, as rep- 
 resented by the single leaf on the side. The leaves are al- 
 ways just beneath the surface, but the flower-stem rises 
 above the water. Sir W. J. Hooker published a minute 
 scientific description of the ouvirandra, and a figure of the 
 plant, in the "Botanical Journal," very soon after the plant 
 had been brought to England. 
 
 Fifteen days after our letters had been sent to the capital 
 of Madagascar we heard that answers had been received. 
 On the following morning, having been invited to receive 
 communications from the officers of the government, the 
 captain of our vessel, Mr. Cameron, and myself, went to
 
 64: VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. n. 
 
 M. de Lastelle's, where we met the chief judge, the harbor- 
 master, the chief of the customs, and other officers, and par- 
 took of a most sumptuous breakfast provided by our host. 
 After breakfast the chief judge delivered to the captain the 
 answers of the queen to the memorial of the merchants at 
 Mauritius, for which he required a receipt. He also gave 
 us the replies to our own communications. Having formal- 
 ly delivered the letters, the judge and officers retired, and 
 shortly afterward we proceeded to the beach, where Mr. 
 Cameron read the letters from the government They were 
 courteous and kindly expressed, but stated that there was 
 much public business of the queen's on hand which re- 
 quired considerable tune to finish, and recommended us to 
 return across the water lest we should be overtaken with 
 sickness.* 
 
 There was in this answer no direct refusal of permission, 
 but a declaration that the parties were much occupied and 
 a recommendation to us to leave the island. We could not 
 but feel regret at being obliged to return without visiting 
 the capital and remaining longer among the people ; but no 
 alternative was left, and, desiring to acquiesce in what ap- 
 peared to be the intimation of the Divine will, we prepared 
 for our departure. Our friends did not seem disappointed, 
 but regarded the replies as more friendly and even more 
 favorable to our object than they had expected, considering 
 that the edict forbidding all intercourse with foreigners was 
 still in force, the indemnity or compensation required by 
 the queen not having yet been paid. In the opinion of 
 some of our friends, more good might result from our visit 
 to the coast than if, at that particular time, we had gone to 
 the capital. 
 
 Two days afterward M. de Lastelle invited us again to a 
 breakfast which was truly sumptuous. We had much con- 
 
 * The Malagasy fever, so prevalent, and often fatal, on the coast at cer- 
 tain seasons of the year.
 
 CHAP. ii. DAGUERREOTYPES OF NATIVES. 65 
 
 versation relative to the fever and other diseases to which 
 the natives are subject, and the medical properties of many 
 of their plants. Mr. Cameron and I had shown the natives 
 some photographic pictures which we had taken, and sev- 
 eral of the officers, looking at some we had with us on that 
 occasion, expressed a strong desire to have their likenesses 
 taken before we left ; and as M. de Lastelle pointed out a 
 house in his inclosure in which we could operate, we went 
 on board for the daguerreotype apparatus, as that process 
 could be most readily employed. When we returned to 
 the shore there was a little difficulty, but, this being over- 
 come, the apparatus was brought on shore, and the next 
 day Mr. Cameron took a number of daguerreotype like- 
 nesses, with which the originals were much delighted. 
 
 While thus employed, we received a visit from a native 
 of some consequence, who was described to us as being of 
 the twelfth honor, and one of the most celebrated diviners 
 or workers of the sikidy in the island. He was in height 
 about the middle stature, rather broad-set than corpulent, 
 good-looking, light-tawny colored, and seemingly about for- 
 ty-five years of age. He was dressed in a pink figured 
 shirt, over which he wore the white lamba. He also had on 
 a broad-brimmed hat of black camlet, with a very wide band 
 of gold-lace. His name was Eatranombolo, or " the silver 
 house." Some of the people appeared to regard him with 
 a certain sort of dread, and there was about him an air of 
 great reserve and importance. The son of the late judge 
 of the district was sitting for his portrait when he arrived. 
 He examined the camera, and seemed astonished at the ac- 
 curacy with which the figure was shown on the ground 
 glass. He wished to have his own portrait taken for him- 
 self; but, as he would not consent to a second being taken 
 to be retained by us, his wish was not gratified, and, after 
 looking with much seeming mystery at the miniatures al- 
 ready taken, he left the place. 
 
 E
 
 06 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. n. 
 
 We spent as much of our time as possible with our val- 
 ued friends on shore, advising and encouraging them in their 
 difficult position. We also left communications and small 
 presents for our brethren at the capital, together with a tri- 
 fling amount of relief for those who were in distress ; and, 
 finally, on the evening of the 8th of August, at a late hour, 
 took leave of our kind friends at the water's edge and pro- 
 ceeded to our ship, grateful for the hospitality shown us by 
 the foreign traders, and for the good feeling and general 
 kindness manifested by the chiefs and people. 
 
 Early on the following morning M. Duprat, a native of 
 Italy, who had been some years on the island, but had suf- 
 fered much from fever, from which he was not yet recover- 
 ed, came on board, and we soon afterward made sail toward 
 Mauritius. Our voyage, owing to head winds, calms, the 
 bad condition of our rigging, and other causes not unattend- 
 ed with danger, was unusually tedious, and from the incon- 
 veniences on board and the conduct of the officers it was 
 excessively painful. 
 
 The sun's rays were generally too strong to allow us to 
 leave our little close cabin during the daytime, and when 
 we did so, as there was scarcely more than a few feet of 
 clear space on deck, exercise was impossible. The only 
 season of relief was the evening, and this pleasant time, un- 
 less prevented by rain, I always spent on deck, watching 
 the sea and the stars ; or musing on the land I had recently 
 left, with the deeply -interesting state of the people by which 
 it was inhabited ; or thinking of others more remote in my 
 far-distant and happy home ; and occasionally listening to 
 the mellow or falsetto voices of one or two of the Malagasy 
 sailors, who sometimes beguiled the hours of the evening- 
 watch with their simple native songs. 
 
 Ever since we had expressed our apprehensions in conse- 
 quence of the large quantity of rum brought on board our 
 ship, our captain had not only seemed less anxious to make
 
 CHAP. ii. BOURBON AND MAURITIUS FROM THE SEA. 67 
 
 our position comfortable, but had occasionally given us un- 
 necessary annoyance. One day the cabin-boy told me he 
 had been ordered to pour a kettle of boiling water over 
 some choice plants which I had brought from Madagascar, 
 and was anxious to preserve, but that he had not done so. 
 A little attention which I had shown the poor fellow in a 
 time of sickness had probably made him my friend, and 
 saved my plants. 
 
 Eighteen days after leaving Madagascar we saw the lofty 
 volcanic land of Bourbon. This island is much higher than 
 Mauritius, more compact in form, and its scenery conse- 
 quently less picturesque and beautiful. We were probably 
 sixty miles distant when it was first seen, and though clouds 
 rested on its higher portions, its summit and the greater part 
 of its outline were often afterward clearly visible. The 
 coast of this island is much exposed in consequence of the 
 absence of sheltering reefs and deep bays. While sailing 
 __ along in sight of it, we were told by some on board with us 
 that there were great numbers of tamarind and other fra- 
 grant trees, and that at certain seasons of the year the odors 
 from the tamarind blossom and other flowers were wafted 
 far over the ocean, perfuming the air, to the great enjoy- 
 ment of those sailing near its coast. We- were, however, 
 beyond the reach of these odorous breezes, or the tamarind 
 and other fragrant trees were not in blossom, for none of 
 the perfume reached us, or we might have realized the truth 
 of Milton's lines 
 
 " As when to them who sail 
 Beyond the Cape of Hope, and now are past 
 Mozambic, off at sea northeast winds blow 
 Sabean odors from the spicy shore 
 Of Araby the Blest ; with such delay 
 Well pleased they slack their course, and many a league 
 Cheer'd with the grateful smell old Ocean smiles." 
 
 On Sunday, the 28th of August, we obtained our first 
 sight of Mauritius, but wind and sea were against us, and
 
 <;,s VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. n. 
 
 two nights afterward it blew a gale, which our ship, in its 
 crippled condition with regard to rigging, was but ill able 
 tt> bear. During the day we sailed as near the land as 
 practicable, and at night stood out to sea. Nothing could 
 surpass the beauty of the scenery of Mauritius as viewed 
 from the sea. The lofty mountains of varied form, conical 
 or peaked with broad shoulders, on which the clouds often 
 rested, rising above the wooded ravine, with the fertile or 
 rocky hills and vales, and, nearer the sea, the neat white 
 villas, generally embowered among trees, and the wide- 
 spreading cane-fields in fresh and lively green, all combined 
 to produce an amount of pleasure which, while we looked 
 upon them, almost made us forget for a time the discomfort 
 of our position. At length, after being tantalized till mid- 
 night, on the 1st of September we anchored near the bell 
 buoy outside the harbor, and were towed into the inner 
 harbor by a steam-tug early on the following morning. We 
 lost no time in proceeding to the shore and seeking our 
 friends, grateful for the Divine protection and goodness we 
 had experienced amid the perils of the deep, through which 
 we had been so mercifully preserved.
 
 CHAP. m. QUEEN OF MADAGASCAR COMPENSATED. 69 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 Compensation sent to the Queen of Madagascar. Situatton of Port Louis. 
 Cosmopolitan Aspect of its Inhabitants. Designation of the Shops. 
 Number and splendid Appearance of the Trees and Flowers of Port Louis. 
 Description of the Bazar. Exhibition of the Society of Agriculture 
 and Arts. Arrival of the Survivors of the Wreck of the Meridian. Hos- 
 pitality and Munificence of the Inhabitants of Mauritius. Testimonial to 
 Captain Ludlow. Religious Services for the Seamen. Visit to Moka. 
 Residence of the late Dr. Thorn. Ascent of the Pouce Mountain, and 
 View from the Summit. Plant-hunting in the Woods. Return of Mr. 
 Cameron from Madagascar. Terms on which the Trade of foreign 
 Countries with Madagascar was renewed. Letter to Foreigners from the 
 Queen's Secretary. 
 
 THE remembrance of the wearisomeness and of the accu- 
 mulated disagreeables of our voyage from Madagascar was 
 soon obliterated by the cordial welcome and the frank and 
 cheerful hospitality of Mr. and Mrs. Kelsey, into whose 
 pleasant family circle I was again admitted. The satisfac- 
 tion arising from finding myself in such circumstances was 
 increased by the perusal of cheering tidings from home, 
 which had arrived during my absence. But as it was de- 
 sirable that I should remain some time in Mauritius, I went 
 to reside in the same house with Mr. and Mrs. Le Brun, 
 where I found a comfortable home and pleasant Christian 
 society until I embarked again for Madagascar. 
 
 The merchants of Mauritius lost no time in subscribing 
 the required sum of 15,000 dollars, which was the amount 
 demanded by the Queen of Madagascar before she would 
 grant permission for the renewal of trade. 
 
 Mr. Cameron being still at Port Louis, and having, on ac- 
 count of his influence with the Malagasy and his knowledge
 
 70 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. in. 
 
 of their language, been invited by the merchants to proceed 
 with Mr. Mangeot, one of thtir own number, to Tamatave, 
 to pay this money, and to arrange with the native authori- 
 ties for the renewal of the trade, sailed from Port Louis in 
 the Nimble, on the 10th of October, and thus afforded an 
 opportunity, of which advantage was readily taken, to com- 
 municate farther with our friends in Madagascar. 
 
 The harbor of Port Louis is capacious and secure. The 
 town is situated at the head of the bay, and is inclosed on 
 the east, the north, and the south by mountains at no great 
 distance from the shore. The highest of these is the Pouce, 
 a mass of ancient volcanic rock, which rises immediately 
 behind the town to an elevation of 2800 feet, and from this 
 a range of volcanic mountain extends toward the sea in a 
 southwest direction, terminating in a high steep point, on 
 which the signal-station, announcing the approach of vessels 
 to the port, is fixed. A sort of spur of the Pouce stretches 
 in a line toward the head of the bay, and is surmounted, at 
 its western extremity, by the citadel which overlooks the 
 harbor and town. Another mountain range, behind which 
 the summit of the Peterboth is seen, extends to the north- 
 west, and thus includes, as in a semicircle, Port Louis and 
 its picturesque environs. The government-house is situ- 
 ated at the upper end of a broad open space called the Place 
 d'Armes, planted on each side with trees, and extending 
 about 500 yards from the landing-place toward the mount- 
 ains. Yiewed from the harbor, the warehouses near the 
 shore and the buildings in the centre of the town look state- 
 ly and imposing. The camp or town of coolies, with here 
 and there the cupola or minaret of a mosque, stretches to 
 the left, and the camp or town of Creoles extends to the 
 right, and exhibits the painted wooden cottages of the former 
 slaves and others in the midst of small cultivated gardens, 
 inclosed with walls of loose stones, and extending to some 
 distance upward from the base of the signal mountain. The
 
 CHAP. ui. ATTRACTIVE NOVELTIES AT PORT LOUIS. 71 
 
 aspect of these several localities indicates the widely-differ- 
 ent classes comprised in the population of Port Louis, and at 
 the same time imparts an agreeable variety to the prospect. 
 
 But it is chiefly on landing that a scene peculiarly novel 
 and striking meets the eye of a stranger from Europe. On 
 the custom-house quay all is activity and bustle, even in 
 the hottest part of the day. Gangs of coolies are toiling, 
 and sing in a low monotonous tone, as they empty the 
 barges and lighters that lie along the edge of the wharf, 
 and deposit their contents under large sheds on the shore. 
 Weighers are busy at the public scales ; clerks, and custom- 
 house officers, and merchants or traders of India or Europe, 
 Arabs, Parsees, English, French, Mauritian, and Chinese, 
 all in their distinctive costumes, may be met with there, 
 some with the high-crowned hat and stiff angular dress of 
 the European, others in the loose flowing white robe and 
 turban of India or Arabia most of the former, and some 
 of the latter, seeking protection from the fierce rays of the 
 sun under large umbrellas. 
 
 On the outside of the custom-house premises numbers of 
 muleteers with their carts may be seen, during the greater 
 part of the day, waiting to be hired, while others within 
 are loading or removing the goods on which the dues have 
 been paid. Most of the laborers about the wharves and 
 warehouses are either coolies or Chinamen. The latter 
 appear generally more robust and hardy than the former, 
 yet both are employed in working all day under the scorch- 
 ing sun, without appearing to suffer inconvenience. There 
 are upward of 10,000 Indians in Port Louis, and an equal 
 number of ex-apprentices. In 1851 the whole population 
 of Port Louis was about 50,000, but it has probably much 
 increased since that time. 
 
 The same activity characterizes the business parts of the 
 town during the early part of the day ; and the inhabitants 
 here also present an equal diversity of costume and char-
 
 72 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. in. 
 
 acter. Arab, Parsee, Bengalee or Chinese merchants, or 
 traders from Muscat or Bombay, Tranquebar, Pondicherry, 
 Madras or Calcutta, Singapore or Canton; with English 
 and French merchants and sailors ; English military ; the 
 local police, wearing the same uniform as that of London, 
 excepting that the tops of their hats are covered with white 
 canvas instead of glazed oilskin, and the Indian police 
 with their white robes and turbans and broad blue sashes 
 or belts ; the Arabian or Indian hawkers of the produce 
 of their respective countries, and the Creoles of Africa or 
 Madagascar, carrying large flat baskets of vegetables or 
 fruit on their heads, and inviting custom for their goods in 
 tones more attractive than the cries of London all these, 
 and many others, may be met with in a short walk through 
 some parts of the 'town, or found gathered round a public 
 auction, of which there are at times several in a day ; and 
 the language of all these different nations may also at times 
 be heard, though French is perhaps the most common. 
 
 Few places, perhaps, of equally limited extent present a 
 population so perfectly cosmopolitan as that of Port Louis. 
 The streets of the town, which are many of them wide, 
 cross each other at right angles, and are, in some parts, 
 cooled by water-courses, and shaded by trees. The houses 
 of the merchants and more respectable inhabitants are good, 
 being generally spacious and substantial stone buildings, 
 chiefly after the French style. The large, stone-walled 
 warehouses are often delightfully cool in the middle of the 
 day. Many of the inferior dwellings are of wood, and oft- 
 en stand detached, even in the streets, which may probably 
 prevent fires from proving so fearfully destructive as might 
 otherwise be the case. The shops are of almost every 
 imaginable kind, from the well-furnished English store to 
 the little box-like room in which a Malabar or a Creole 
 offers cigars or tobacco for sale. Many of the shops are 
 well fitted up and furnished, some with considerable pre-
 
 CHAP. in. DESIGNATION OF THE SHOPS. 73 
 
 tension and display, especially those of the chemists and 
 druggists, which, considering the size of the place, appear 
 to be very numerous. Most of the craftsmen and skilled 
 workmen of the place are Creoles, or ex-apprentices, with 
 the exception of the cabinet-makers, of which a large 
 proportion are Chinese, who are industrious and frugal, 
 though said to be addicted to gaming. It was strange to a 
 European to notice, in the shops of the Indians, the shop- 
 man or master seated cross-legged on the counter, with his 
 goods piled on shelves on each side and behind him, so 
 that he could exhibit his wares, serve his customers, and 
 keep his accounts, without rising from his seat. The effect 
 of climate, to which it is probable this habit is to be as- 
 cribed, would seem not confined to Asiatics. I heard a 
 lady say she was on one occasion inquiring for a certain 
 article, I think worsted or Berlin wool, when the shop-keep- 
 er replied he believed he had some, but it was " up there," 
 pointing to a shelf near the ceiling, and that it was too hot 
 for him to get the parcel down then. 
 
 In numbers of the small shops the articles are both made 
 and sold in the same place ; and in some parts, especially in 
 the Malabar or Asiatic quarter, both these proceedings are 
 more frequently carried on in the open air than within 
 doors. Many of the persons of color seem fond of giving 
 names to their shops, and these were at times somewhat 
 amusing. I saw written over a cigar and tobacco shop 
 which I frequently passed, " Au petit Fashionable ;" over 
 others, " Au petite Elegance," " Au petit Cosmopolite," etc. 
 A little tinsmith's shop, scarcely more than a couple of 
 yards wide, and in front almost all window and door, had 
 written over it, " Au petit Espoir." Over a confectioner's 
 shop was written, " Au Temple des Douces." Other names 
 were more strange and unexpected, as, " A bon Diable," and 
 " A pauvre Diable ;" " A la Sainte Famille" over a haber- 
 dasher's shop, and " A la Grace de Dieu" over a perfumer's
 
 74 VISITS TO MADAGASCAE. CHAP. in. 
 
 or confectioner's. Malabar barbers, whose stock of imple- 
 ments seldom exceeded scissors, razor, and a small looking- 
 glass, might be seen in all parts of the town and at all hours 
 of the day in the open air, by the shady side of a wall, or, 
 if the sun was vertical, under a piece of matting spread on 
 two or three sticks fixed against a wall, shaving away at the 
 dry or perspiring heads or faces of their customers, who 
 watched with interest, by means of a small circular looking- 
 glass, the progress and execution of the razor. 
 
 Almost equally amusing was the strange misappropriation 
 of names by which the servants were sometimes designated. 
 In the families in which I was occasionally domiciled I was 
 at first startled by hearing the attendants, chiefly Creoles or 
 colored natives of Mauritius, ^called by names equally sug- 
 gestive of ancient grandeur or poetical interest. In one 
 family Aristides waited at table, Cecile was sewing- woman, 
 Virginia nurse, and Amadeo was cook's assistant. In an- 
 other Urania was house-servant, while Adonis and Polydore 
 were among those employed about the premises. These 
 names, and others of a similar kind, had probably been 
 given at the time when slavery existed ; but they seemed, 
 among the younger Creoles, to be giving place to such as 
 Harry, Charles, Louis, and other more familiar appella- 
 tions. 
 
 So long as I was the guest of Mr. Kelsey I passed through 
 the Malabar or Coolie town every time I went in and out 
 of Port Louis, and my attention was attracted by their hab- 
 it of squatting or sitting to every kind of work. Tailors 
 held the cloth they were stitching between their toes ; shoe- 
 makers held the last or leather in the same manner ; silver- 
 smiths sat on the floor to their work ; and smiths had their 
 forge and anvil on the ground. All their work seemed to 
 be done in this posture. I once saw two men sitting down 
 while cutting a piece of timber with a cross-cut saw. Per- 
 haps this habit might in part account for the long, thin.
 
 CHAP. in. KAEE AND BEAUTIFUL TREES. 75 
 
 fleshless legs and arms and the flexible joints of the Coolies, 
 so different from the stiff muscular limbs of the Creoles. 
 
 The habitations of the more respectable or wealthy classes 
 in Port Louis, and almost all except those in the central and 
 crowded parts of the town, are of stone, colored white or 
 yellow, and protected from the sun by verandas or lattice- 
 work. They stand within inclosures, opening by wide and 
 ornamental gateways into the principal streets. These courts 
 are planted with flowers, and shaded by the most rare and 
 beautiful of tropical trees. Among these the most umbra- 
 geous are the bread-fruit, the badamia, and the tamarind, 
 with its lofty light-green foliage ; while the most elegant 
 are the bamboo, the cocoa-nut, the date, and other species 
 of palms. Mingled with these and other tall-growing spe- 
 cies are numbers of choice flowering shrubs and trees, in- 
 cluding ixoras and the hibiscus, with blossoms of every hue ; 
 the Poinsettia pulcherrima, with its large, rich, deep crimson 
 bracts, the sang-dragon or Pterocarpus draco, at times a large 
 tree, presenting one mass of bright yellow bloom. In other 
 parts are seen the Eugenia or jambosa, with its pink myrtle- 
 like blossom ; the Kiglia pinnala, chandelier-tree, with its 
 purple bell-shaped flowers, resembling those of the Cobcea 
 scandens ; as well as the Bauhinia, and more than one spe- 
 cies of erythrina. But conspicuous beyond all the rest is 
 the stately and gorgeous Poinciana regia, compact-growing 
 and regular in form, but retaining something of the acacia 
 habit, rising sometimes to the height of forty or fifty feet, 
 and, between the months of December and April, presenting, 
 amid its delicate pea-green pinnated leaves, one vast pyra- 
 mid of bunches of bright dazzling scarlet flowers. Seen 
 sometimes over the tops of the houses, and at others in an 
 open space, standing forth in 1 truly regal splendor, this is 
 certainly one of the most magnificent of trees. Its common 
 name is mille fleurs, or flamboyant. The Poinciana and the 
 large beautifully yellow-flowering Colvillea, as well as some
 
 76 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. in. 
 
 fine and fragrant species of Dombeya, and other kinds, were 
 introduced from Madagascar by M. Bojer, who also brought 
 the kiglia from the coast of Africa in 1824. 
 
 Besides these and other large-growing trees, there are 
 numbers of gay shrubs and flowers, either indigenous, or 
 imported from India, Java, and the adjacent isles, from 
 South America, Africa, and Madagascar, as well as from 
 Australia and Europe. The double and single blossomed 
 oleander, Nereum splendens, the bright pink-leaved dracaena, 
 are grown in almost every garden ; and near one of the 
 public roads I sometimes stopped to look at a splendid 
 Braughmansia, growing, not as we see it in England, in 
 spacious and tasteful conservatories, but by the side of a 
 ditch that drained part of the town, with numbers of its 
 large white trumpet-shaped flowers hanging in clusters about 
 the windows of a printing-office, and perhaps cheering, by 
 the beauty of their form and color, the labors of the work- 
 men within. The rich, delicate, and fragrant Stephanotus 
 floribunda, with which the daughters of our highest aris- 
 tocracy have garlanded their brows on the bridal morning, 
 here climbs up the lattice-work of the verandas, and con- 
 tends for space with the scarlet passion-flower or the pink, 
 waxy, and porcelain or gem-like flowers of the Soya carnosa 
 or the yellow-flowering Allamanda cathartica. The beauti- 
 ful Dalbergia scandens frequently covered the walls ; and the 
 Crypto, stygia, a purple-flowered creeper from Madagascar, 
 occasionally overspread the largest trees. The Lantana 
 aurantiaca in some places forms hedges; and elegantly-grow- 
 ing cactuses, presenting at times long masses of bright yel- 
 low flowers, are cut off the tops and sides of the walls with 
 a bill-hook or sickle. To all these, roses from England 
 haye been recently added, and many of the sorts, especially 
 the Bourbon and tea-scented Chinas, thrive remarkably well, 
 though the color of the flowers is paler, and the fragrance 
 fainter than when grown in England.
 
 PALM-TEEE. 
 
 77 
 
 The inhabitants of Mauritius evidently possess a taste for 
 flowers, and, in addition to those indigenous to the island, 
 the four quarters of the world seem, in this respect, to have 
 contributed to their gratification. The greater part of Port 
 Louis is supplied with running water, which must be in- 
 valuable to the gardens. The trees and flowers of the 
 
 AFBIOAN PALM-TBEE. 
 
 tropics, as well as those of more temperate climes, appear 
 to thrive well ; and while they produce on the mind of the 
 stranger some of the most agreeable impressions, he receives 
 much also in the cool refreshing shade of their dark dense 
 foliage, and the variety of color and fragrance of the flow-
 
 78 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. in. 
 
 ers prove a perpetual source of enjoyment to the inhabit- 
 ants, such as few other places can supply. 
 
 I was glad to be able to add to my portfolio photographs 
 of a number of these rich and beautiful plants ; the engrav- 
 ing on the preceding page exhibits a rare and graceful 
 plant of the palm species from Africa, and growing most 
 luxuriantly in the garden of a French gentleman at Port 
 Louis. The leaf resembles that of the cocoa-nut, but the 
 stalks are united at the crown of the plant, as in the palm- 
 iste or areca, while the rings round the enlarged cylindrical 
 stem resemble those of the latter. It was growing in the 
 midst of pomegranates and other plants in flower, and was 
 the only specimen of the kind that I met with in Mauritius 
 or Madagascar. 
 
 Soon after I had become a resident at Port Louis, I ac- 
 companied M. le Brun at an early hour one morning to 
 the bazar or market, held not far from the landing-place. 
 This market, which occupies two large squares, is well 
 fitted up, and is covered in, with the exception of a wide 
 thoroughfare through the centre of each square. In the 
 eastern bazar were arranged, in separate localities, fancy 
 birds in cages, with poultry, including fowls, ducks, geese, 
 and turkeys ; different kinds of vegetables, many European 
 as well as tropical ; an abundant supply of good potatoes, 
 with cabbages, beans, fine stone turnips, onions, garlic, to- 
 matoes, and capsicums or chilis, yams, manioc, bananas, ta- 
 marinds, custard-apples, and pine-apples. Then there were 
 cocoa-nuts, pistache-nuts, areca-nuts, betel-leaf, and many 
 other vegetable productions new to me, all spread out upon 
 the ground, with the kinds of fruit then in season. Besides 
 these, there were seeds and grain in almost endless variety, 
 lentils, rice, barley, milkt, maize, French beans, turmeric, 
 saffron, and numerous kinds of Indian gram. The seed 
 trade appeared to be entirely in the hands of the Coolies or 
 Indians : each seller sat cross-legged, frequently perched on 

 
 CHAP. m. EXHIBITION OF TROPICAL PRODUCTIONS, ETC. 79 
 
 a low stool, and surrounded by his measures, in the midst 
 of bags and baskets of seeds and grain, spread around him 
 on the ground, to the number of twenty or more different 
 kinds. In the same part of the market were exhibited 
 basket-ware, coopers' work ; furniture, such as sofas, chairs, 
 tables, bedsteads, and chests; besides stalls with cutlery, 
 haberdashery, jewelry, and perfumes. 
 
 On the opposite side of the street was the market for meat, 
 fish, and bread, all under shelter, and well arranged. The 
 fish, including oysters, lobsters, crabs, and prawns, was tol- 
 erably abundant, but generally small ; the meat inferior and 
 dear, the best kinds of beef, though very coarse, being, in 
 consequence of the stoppage of the trade with Madagascar, 
 upward of Is., and sometimes as high as Is. 6d. per pound. 
 The pork butchers seemed to be all Chinese, and the venders 
 of other kinds of meat were generally Creoles. Masters of 
 respectable houses might occasionally be seen in the bazar 
 at an early hour ; but it was chiefly thronged with the head 
 servants or cooks of the chief families of the place, purchas- 
 ing, in the cool of the morning, the supplies required for 
 the day, as no meat would keep till the morrow. 
 
 There are several useful associations in Mauritius, and 
 among them a society for the promotion of agriculture, arts, 
 and sciences. At the annual exhibition of this society, 
 which was held in the bazar on the 22d of September, I 
 was highly gratified at the splendid collection of tropical 
 and European fruits and other productions of the island. 
 Among these were the rich, luscious-looking mango of In- , 
 dia, the litchi of China, the custard-apple of South Amer- 
 ica ; while the strawberry and raspberry of Europe might 
 - be seen on the same table. The exhibition comprised works 
 of manufacture and art, including painting and ladies' nee- 
 dle-work, machinery and carriages, live stock and poultry. 
 Among the former were some delicate fabrications in cocoa- 
 nut leaf from Sechelles ; of the latter, some Japanese, Cochin
 
 80 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. m. 
 
 China, and Mozambique fowls, each distinct specimen at- 
 tracting my notice. But the collection was richest in vege- 
 table productions. Many of the European vegetables were 
 large and well grown. Among these was a fine single plant 
 of green curled kale, planted in a tub painted green, as we 
 grow camellias or oranges in conservatories. It must have 
 had much care bestowed upon it, perhaps by some exile from 
 Caledonia ; for not a leaf was yellow, but as green and fresh, 
 and as crisped round the edges as in any northern garden. 
 The yams were in great variety, and very fine, as were also 
 the samples of coffee and arrow-root, but especially the su- 
 gars ; while the large bundles of truly gigantic cane, eigh- 
 teen or twenty feet high, were truly astonishing. Sugar is 
 now the staple produce of Mauritius, and it is not easy to 
 imagine more magnificent samples of canes or sugars than 
 were exhibited on this occasion. The attention given to 
 the cultivation of sugar will not appear surprising when it 
 is remembered that from this little island more than 220 
 millions of pounds of this article are exported every year ; a 
 quantity equal to the cargoes of 300 ships of 500 tons' bur- 
 den each. 
 
 Among the many collections of flowers and groups of 
 plants, a towering pyramid of China asters was commenda- 
 bly exhibited for the benefit of the poor, and it afterward 
 realized 100 dollars. One of the most gorgeous plants was 
 an Alpinist magnified, from the royal gardens at Pample- 
 mouses, on which the bunch or cone of scarlet flowers rose 
 on a stalk eight or ten feet from the ground. There was a 
 collection exhibited by Mr. Duncan of fifty sorts of roses 
 and some fragrant and beautiful violets; but one of the 
 groups most suggestive to me consisted of three small plants, 
 well grown, one of them a common English flower, exhib- 
 ited by an amateur florist, a Hindoo gentleman from Cal- 
 cutta employed in one of the government omces. The card 
 on this modest collection indicated that the judges had
 
 CHAP. in. ARRIVAL OF SHIPWRECKED PASSENGERS. 81 
 
 awarded to its owner a prize, and he perhaps felt as rich 
 and found as much satisfaction in the award as an English 
 amateur would do who had successfully exhibited in Lon- 
 don a saccolabium or a vanda from Nepal or Calcutta. This 
 -exhibition was quite a fete-day for the higher classes. A 
 band attended. The acting governor, General Sutherland, 
 and his lady, together with his suite, came during the after- 
 noon ; a number of military and naval officers were present, 
 and for some time the several avenues around the flowers, 
 the most attractive objects, were literally thronged with 
 company, presenting, in this respect, on a smaller scale, a 
 similar scene to the gatherings on an English exhibition- 
 day at Chiswick or the Regent's Park. 
 
 The Sechelles, from which some of the most beautiful 
 fabrications exhibited had been brought, comprise a num- 
 ber of low islands to the northward of Mauritius, which 
 often prove dangerous to vessels navigating that part of the 
 Indian Ocean. Two wrecks had recently occurred among 
 them ; and on the 26th of September the shipwrecked crew 
 and passengers of an English vessel arrived at Port Louis 
 under circumstances which excited very deep and general 
 sympathy. The Meridian, a fine new ship of nearly 600 
 tons' burden, with a valuable cargo and eighty-four passen- 
 gers, making, with the crew, 108 souls, sailed from England 
 on the 4th of June, and on the evening of the 24th of Au- 
 gust struck on the rocks on the southwest point of Amster- 
 dam, the smallest of two solitary, uninhabited, and rocky 
 islands, situated in the Southern Ocean, midway between 
 the Cape of Good Hope and New Holland. On the first 
 shock -the captain had rushed on deck, and was almost im- 
 mediately washed overboard and drowned, as were also the 
 cook and one passenger. The force of the sea was so great 
 that soon after midnight the main-mast fell over the side 
 of the vessel, the upper end reaching to the shore. About 
 the same time the strongly-built new ship broke in two at 
 
 F
 
 82 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR CHAP. in. 
 
 tlie after hatchway, and by daylight a small part of the 
 forecastle, was all that remained visible of the fore part of 
 the ship. The officers and crew and some of the passen- 
 gers had sought refuge in the rigging. The rest of the 
 passengers, including the women and children, assisted and 
 encouraged by the second and third officers and one of the 
 seamen, remained in great peril from the floods of water 
 that poured down into their cabins and drove them to the 
 poop. Here they continued in a state of fearful uncertain- 
 ty until about six o'clock on the following morning, when, 
 assisted by the two officers and the sailor already mention- 
 ed, they passed along by the mast, as by a bridge or path- 
 way, from the wreck to the shore. Here they found them- 
 selves upon a mass of fragments of rugged volcanic rock, 
 extending from forty to one hundred yards, and terminat- 
 ing in a steep inaccessible precipice of rock two or three 
 hundred feet high. For the first two nights and days all 
 remained in this exposed situation, with only the clothes 
 they happened to have on ; but a bale of flannel and wool- 
 en shirts, being washed on shore, furnished them with a 
 more ample supply of clothing. They also collected among 
 the fragments of rock a small quantity of damaged provis- 
 ions, on which they might have barely subsisted for a few 
 days. For the first two days a biscuit a day was served 
 out to each one, but afterward their supply was limited to 
 half a biscuit, and, so fong as they lasted, a herring a day. 
 On the third day they removed to a spot nearly a mile dis- 
 tant from the place of their wreck, where, an ascent to the 
 summit of the cliff being found, a rude encampment was 
 formed on the heights. A pole was then erected, and a 
 couple of red shirts and some white flannel hoisted as a sig- 
 nal of distress. This, on the following morning, was seen 
 by an American whaler cruising off the island, but who 
 was unable for some time, on account of the weather, to 
 hold any communication with the shipwrecked party. At
 
 CHAP. in. GALLANT CONDUCT OF AN AMERICAN CAPTAIN. 83 
 
 length, after much suffering, on the oth of September, when 
 the scanty provisions would scarcely have sufficed for an- 
 other day, and when many had become too weak to walk 
 to the nearest place where water could be found, a ship 
 previously seen reappeared, and sent a boat to the shore. 
 This vessel proved to be the Monmouth, American whaler, 
 commanded by Captain Ludlow, who, with the greatest 
 promptness and kindness, rescued the whole party from a 
 most appalling death, and brought them to Mauritius, the 
 nearest port, which they reached in three weeks after leav- 
 ing the scene of their fearful disaster. 
 
 The government immediately appropriated to the use of 
 the shipwrecked company the houses at the quarantine sta- 
 tion, and took measures to provide for their wants. The 
 inhabitants of Port Louis manifested a prompt and generous 
 sympathy, not less honorable to themselves than it must 
 have proved cheering to the destitute strangers. In com- 
 pany with Mr. and Mrs. Kelsey, I visited them soon after 
 their arrival, and found among those with whom I con- 
 versed a deep feeling of devout gratitude to God for their 
 wonderful and almost miraculous escape from death in one 
 of its most appalling forms that of starvation. Besides 
 this, were feelings of inexpressible thankfulness to Captain 
 Ludlow, his officers and crew, by whose humane and intrep- 
 id exertions they had been rescued; while his subsequent 
 conduct, his sympathy and ceaseless attention to their com- 
 fort, had sweetened the bitterness of their cup and rein- 
 spired them with confidence and hope. Supplies of clothing 
 were readily provided by the inhabitants of Port Louis. 
 On the day of their landing, and as soon as their destitute 
 circumstances were known, ladies in their carriages repaired 
 to the place with packages of women's and children's ap- 
 parel. Gentlemen sent the contents of their wardrobes, or 
 purchased and forwarded such articles as seemed most needed 
 and suitable. The Rev. Mr. Voller, a Baptist minister, with
 
 84: VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. in. 
 
 his wife and family, were soon removed to the hospitable 
 home of Mr. and Mrs. Kelsey. Some of their companions 
 were invited to the habitations of other residents in Port 
 Louis, and the rest remained at the quarantine. 
 
 At a public meeting which the passengers held a few 
 days afterward, to express their sense of the generous con- 
 duct of the officers and crew of the American ship, and to 
 provide some suitable memorial to be presented to Captain 
 Ludlow, I was surprised to meet a gentleman whom I had 
 known in England, and whom I had last met at a bridal 
 party under very different circumstances from those which 
 now brought us together. On a subsequent visit from this 
 gentleman, I learned that one of the passengers, a young 
 man with whose relations I was acquainted in England, had 
 been so crippled by the wreck as to be unable to move, and 
 had lain one whole night upon the rocks, where the surf 
 washed over him. His companions were too weak to carry 
 him ; the sailors of his own ship had left him to die ; but 
 Captain Ludlow had sent four strong seamen to bring him 
 over to the landing-place, declaring he would not leave the 
 coast while a soul remained on the island. This young 
 man, I was informed, was in the hospital. I lost no time 
 in visiting him there, and he was greatly delighted to meet 
 with some one who knew his family and friends. 
 
 The noble conduct of Captain Ludlow secured for him 
 the esteem and gratitude of the entire community. The 
 governor acknowledged his gallant and disinterested efforts 
 on behalf of British subjects, and the Chamber of Commerce 
 publicly did the same in the most handsome and appropriate 
 manner, accompanying the expression of their admiration 
 of his generous and humane behavior, and that of his officers 
 and crew, with the present of a piece of plate, of the value 
 of 120, to be procured in London, as a memorial of their 
 deep sense of his heroic conduct and distinguished worth. 
 
 The inhabitants of Mauritius did not limit their kind of-
 
 CHAP. ra. RELIGIOUS SERVICES FOR THE SEAMEN. 85 
 
 fices toward the shipwrecked strangers to the supply of their 
 more immediate wants. A subscription was set on foot by 
 the inhabitants of the island, and the magnificent sum of 
 1200 was raised and distributed among the passengers, 
 who were sent on to Sydney, their original destination, by 
 the government. 
 
 There were many English and American seamen visiting 
 the port at this season, and, as there were no religious ser- 
 vices among them on the Sabbath, I made application to 
 the harbor-master, Captain Eussel, for permission to have 
 public worship and preaching for sailors every Sunday in 
 the port-office. Permission to occupy it for this purpose 
 was very readily granted by the governor. The requisite 
 fittings were provided, and at times a considerable number 
 of captains, officers, and seamen, from the vessels in the har- 
 bor, attended. I continued these services every Sabbath 
 morning until the season when unfavorable weather is al- 
 ways expected, and few vessels came or remained in the 
 harbor. 
 
 Toward the close of the month of October in this year I 
 visited Moka, an inland district about nine or ten miles from 
 Port Louis. The morning we set out for this purpose was 
 fine, and we started early, in order to secure the pleasant 
 coolness of that part of the day. The road was hilly, and, 
 though walking up the hills proved very fatiguing, we were 
 amply repaid by the beauty of the scenery and the many 
 objects of novelty and interest which we passed. In some 
 places stately groves or avenues of mango-trees led from the 
 road to a large and respectable house ; at others, the rudely- 
 thatched hut of the Indian or of the Creole vender of fruit 
 or beverage stood under the shade of a tamarind-tree by the 
 side of the dusty road. In some places tall bamboos grew 
 most luxuriantly on both sides of the road, and, uniting 
 their slender, elastic, and gracefully-foliaged stems at the 
 top, formed a naturally-pointed arch of peculiar elegance and
 
 86 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. in. 
 
 beauty. At other times the sides of the road were covered 
 for a considerable distance -with the agave, or American 
 aloe, of gigantic size, and in every stage of progress toward 
 flowering, in some instances interspersed with the more 
 slender and graceful forms of the Fourcrsea and other small- 
 er species. On our right the sugar plantations, covered with 
 tall, green, waving canes, stretched away four or five miles 
 toward the sea ; and on our left, at the distance of from 300 
 yards to a mile, the dark-brown sterile or wooded mount- 
 ains towered, often in fantastic forms, high up into the 
 bright blue sky. 5 The object of this visit was to be present 
 at the anniversary of the Protestant chapel here, of which 
 the Kev. P. Le Brun, son of my worthy host at Port Louis, 
 was the minister. 
 
 Soon after ten we walked to the chapel of this rural dis- 
 trict. It is a neat, substantial stone building, standing near 
 the road, on land originally purchased by the London Mis- 
 sionary Society for the use of the Christian refugees from 
 Madagascar, several of whom, including Eafaravavy, at one 
 time resided here. The chapel, which will hold three or 
 four hundred persons, was filled with colored people, re- 
 spectably, and, in some instances, gayly dressed. They lis- 
 tened with attention to a plain, affectionate, and instructive 
 sermon from M. Le Brun, senior. There was a large gath- 
 ering of singers, and the simple melody of one of the Swiss 
 tunes seemed alike agreeable and appropriate. The service 
 closed soon after noon, and when we left the building it 
 was truly gratifying to witness the air of contentment and 
 kindly feeling which marked the cheerful countenances and 
 cordial salutations of the crowds outside, who had met to- 
 gether on this occasion from the adjacent country and more 
 distant parts. It was also particularly pleasing to observe 
 the grateful esteem and satisfaction with which the kind, 
 faithful, and venerable minister to whom they had been lis- 
 tening was welcomed and greeted as he made his way
 
 CHAP. in. PICTURESQUE SCENERY AT MOKA. 87 
 
 through the throng to the residence of his son. lie had 
 been their instructor and their sympathizing friend in their 
 dark days of coerced and unrequited toil ; and now, in their 
 happier state of freedom, he was deservedly recognized as 
 still their friend, not less entitled to their confidence and 
 love in his efforts for their emancipation from moral and 
 spiritual bondage more oppressive and disastrous than the 
 most galling personal slavery. 
 
 During the afternoon I strolled along the banks of the 
 deep clear river, which, rising among the adjacent mount- 
 ains, flows through the mission-ground. Here I amused 
 myself with gathering ferns, and admiring the picturesque 
 and shady little nooks and corners of rich and varied beau- 
 ty which the margin of the stream very frequently present- 
 ed. Down to the water's edge the ground was covered with 
 large forest-trees or thick underwood, among which passion- 
 flower and other creepers appeared growing in great luxu- 
 riance. Some varieties of tree-fern were conspicuous here, 
 especially one very beautiful species, apparently the Cyaihea 
 excelsa. The bright pink-leaved dracasna appeared here and 
 there ; and *the green and red-leaved arum or caladium, so 
 attractive among our stove-plants in England, was often 
 seen growing in wild and luxuriant beauty along the mar- 
 gin of the water. In this neighborhood I saw some gorge- 
 ous specimens of Hibiscus mutabiiis, with large hollyhock- 
 shaped flowers, deep rose-color in the centre, and lighter 
 round the edges ; also a number of plants of the Hedychium 
 flavescens, a fragrant yellow-flowering plant, resembling the 
 yucca ; but as there had evidently been a house near the 
 place where these were growing, they might probably be 
 regarded as indicating a spot, and by no means the only one 
 I met with in the island, 
 
 "Where once the garden smiled, 
 And still where many a garden flower grows wild." 
 
 In the evening we returned to Port Louis, pleased with
 
 88 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. in. 
 
 the events of the day, and delighted with the rich and glow- 
 ing effect of the tropical landscape as it lay before us bur- 
 nished with the golden light of the setting sun. 
 
 Besides the kindness of Mr. Kelsey, who lived about two 
 miles distant from the town, I received much attention from 
 Major-general Sutherland, commander-in-chief of the forces, 
 etc., and from Dr. A. Thorn, chief of the medical department. 
 With the latter gentleman and his family I spent some 
 pleasant hours ; and it was always refreshing to walk up to 
 the extremity of the Champ de Lort, where, on the edge of 
 the ravine leading to the Pouce, his house was situated. I 
 was much struck the first evening, when I walked up to join 
 a dinner-party at his house, with the beautiful effect of the 
 large glass lamps suspended under the verandas or in the 
 halls of the dwellings by the side of the broad open road, 
 and sending their rays through the foliage of the gardens 
 in front. This effect was particularly striking when pass- 
 ing through the garden of my host, and entering at once 
 from the veranda to the lighted drawing-room, the doors 
 and windows of which were all open so as to admit the wel- 
 come evening air, and to diffuse the light of the room 
 among the surrounding shrubs and flowers ; while the Im- 
 pression was deepened on having the folding-doors leading 
 to the dining-room opened by two Bengalees in their white 
 turbans and long flowing white robes. There was some- 
 thing so Oriental in the whole, that, though commonplace 
 enough to the residents of India on the island, it was novel 
 and interesting to a stranger. I passed the night at the res- 
 idence of Dr. Thorn, and slept in a sort of summer-house, or 
 small single-roomed building in the garden, called a pavil- 
 ion, situated a few yards from the dwelling, and used by 
 my host as a museum and library. Detached buildings of 
 this kind, but of various dimensions, are built in the gar- 
 dens of most of the houses of any pretension, and are ex- 
 ceedingly pleasant and convenient, especially where the 
 family is large.
 
 CHAP. m. RESIDENCE OF THE LATE DR. THOM. 89 
 
 When walking in the .garden with Dr. Thorn on the fol- 
 fowing morning, I was delighted to see the Achimenes picta 
 and the velvet-leaved Gesneria growing luxuriantly, while 
 beautiful purple or claret-colored ipomaeas exhibited all the 
 elegance of form for which flowers of the convolvulus kind 
 are distinguished. I observed also the /Stephanotus flori- 
 bunda and two varieties of bright scarlet quamoclit, with 
 the Tecoma jasminiflora, also in flower, and trailing luxu- 
 riantly over the trellis- work. Around the posts of the ve- 
 randa the perfumed vanilla, and within the garden Poin- 
 settias, dracsenas, and roses were mingled with the modest- 
 looking Thumbergia, which is quite a weed here, the ground 
 being in some parts literally covered with its different va- 
 rieties. 
 
 The residence of my friends was considered cool and 
 healthy, and the mountain scenery on one side, and the 
 fertile valley on the other, covered with numerous palms and 
 tropical shrubs, rendered it exceedingly beautiful. Nothing 
 could exceed in luxuriant growth the different species of 
 the aloe tribe, especially the common American aloe, which 
 grew along the banks, by the side of the road, or on the 
 adjacent plain. Many of the old flower-stalks, upward of 
 twenty feet high, were still standing, while younger stems, 
 in every stage of growth, from the scarcely apparent stalk 
 to those bearing freshly-opened flowers, presented them- 
 selves in different directions. 
 
 In the pleasant hours which on different occasions it was 
 my privilege to spend with Dr. Thorn and his family, I found 
 him always an agreeable and intelligent companion, not 
 only eminent in his profession, but having extended his in- 
 quiries to other departments of knowledge. Meteorotegy 
 had engaged much of his attention, and his work on the 
 Law of Storms is regarded as a valuable contribution to that 
 important branch of nautical science. Loss of health obliged 
 him during the following year to leave Mauritius with his
 
 90 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. in. 
 
 family for England, where his useful life terminated very 
 peacefully soon after his arrival. 
 
 The 9th of November, the Prince of Wales's birthday, 
 was observed as a public holiday in Port Louis, and I ac- 
 companied my two young friends, Lieutenant, now Captain, 
 Gordon and Mr. Larkworthy, whom I often met at Dr. 
 Thorn's, on an excursion to the Pouce, a lofty mountain 
 with a sort of thumb-shaped summit which rises imme- 
 diately behind Port Louis. We set out very early in order 
 to secure the advantage of the coolness of the morning. 
 Some natives carried our provisions : I took a large tin case 
 fbr specimens of plants, and my companions each a portfolio 
 for sketching. On leaving the town, we passed along a path 
 that reminded me somewhat of excursions among the Pyre- 
 nees. After a time we entered upon the woody base of the 
 mountain, when the road became more steep, but not diffi- 
 cult, affording occasionally good halting-places, with open- 
 ings in the trees through which we obtained most charming 
 views of the rich valley, with its villas, cottages, and gar- 
 dens, the citadel, the town, the port, and the batteries which 
 guard its entrance, the lines of stately shipping ranged along 
 the sides of the harbor, with the wide blue ocean stretching 
 far away beyond ; on the other side of our path, the fine, 
 bold, steep piles of dark ferruginous volcanic rock, diversi- 
 fied along its different strata by tufts of grass and stunted 
 shrubs, rose several hundred feet above our path. Among 
 these rocks in several places the monkeys which inhabit the 
 mountain could be seen springing from branch to branch 
 with great agility and speed. The scene was also enlivened 
 by the elegant tropic-bird occasionally sailing along in the 
 clear and cloudless sky over our heads. 
 
 At different parts of our route we met companies of the 
 inhabitants of Moka, carrying on their heads loads of veg- 
 etables, fruit, and flowers, of which latter article roses formed 
 the staple, for sale at Port Louis. They appeared to descend
 
 CHAP. in. ASCENT OF THE POUCE MOUNTAIN. 91 
 
 with considerable speed and without much fatigue, notwith- 
 standing their heavy loads. The men who accompanied us 
 begged sugar-cane of their friends in passing, and we pur- 
 chased some bananas to add to our stores. About half past 
 seven we reached what is called the shoulder of the mount- 
 ain, where the path we had ascended crosses the ridge and 
 descends to the cultivated plains on the opposite side. Find- 
 ing here a small stream of clear water, we proposed to halt 
 and take our breakfast. "We first chose an open spot com- 
 manding a view of the valley below and the ocean beyond ; 
 but the heat of the sun obliged us to seek a situation where 
 the brush-wood afforded some protection from his rays. 
 While breakfast was preparing and my companions were 
 sketching, I walked to the other side of the pass, and felt 
 amply rewarded by the extensive view I obtained of Moka, 
 Plaines Wilhelms, and perhaps not less so by the pleasure 
 of finding on the trunks of the trees some orchids, the first 
 I had ever seen growing in their natural state. 
 
 When our breakfast was ready we sat down together ; a 
 chapter of the Bible was read in French for the benefit of 
 our attendants, and then- we all knelt on the grass on the 
 mountain-side and offered our thanksgivings and prayers 
 to the Author of all our mercies. Soon after breakfast we 
 resumed our journey toward the summit. For some time 
 our way lay through a thickly- wooded part of the mountain, 
 and we began with great enthusiasm- to look for new plants. 
 I found so many things to examine and compare that my 
 tin case was soon filled. Orchids were my chief objects of 
 search, and though I saw but a few small ones, and only 
 one which at first I thought was a calanthe, but afterward 
 found to be a Bletia, yet I found myself am^d so many new 
 and beautiful plants of other species that I knew not which 
 way to turn ; I was almost bewildered, and my companions 
 seemed to find as much enjoyment as myself. My atten- 
 tion was first attracted by two new kinds of dracrenas one
 
 92 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. ra. 
 
 Draccena Mauriciensis, peculiar to tlic island, and the other 
 D. tessellata. Then there were new and elegant forms in 
 great perfection. But one of my companions soon sur- 
 passed all our discoveries by finding among the ferns and 
 near the ground, on the stem of a tree which was thicker 
 than my arm, six or eight thick, leathery, fleshy flowers, 
 and a great many buds about the size and shape of a fig. 
 Some of the buds just opening appeared like a wine-glass 
 with a vandyck rim, and others, more open, appeared like 
 the most beautiful Ancectochilus, the flower five or six 
 inches across and presenting a dark green velvety ground, 
 with pink and lilac spots ; and until I satisfied myself that 
 it was the actual blossom of the tree itself, I thought it 
 was really an Ancectochilus. We marked the place, and 
 charged the natives to take especial notice, so that we 
 might find it again on our descent. However, we soon saw 
 many others, and became satis^ed that we had only met 
 with a curiosity without making a discovery. I brought 
 specimens of this flower to M. Bojer, who said it was a 
 most curious plant, the Mithridatea tamburissa ; and that af- 
 ter the open flower was fertilized it closed up again, the 
 seams all united, and it swelled into a fruit as large as a 
 small gourd or pumpkin, filled with bright red berries like a 
 pomegranate. He said it was vulgarly called monkey-apple. 
 We kept on our way, making to ourselves new discover- 
 ies and perpetually startled by new wonders, until about 
 eleven, when we emerged from our cover and attempted 
 the bare steep side of the summit. In less than half an 
 hour this was gained, and we found ourselves upon a flat- 
 tish space about four feet wide and twelve or fourteen feet 
 long. Here we sat down, 2847 feet above the sea, the 
 whole island spread out like a map beneath us, its fertile 
 central plains, and its mountains rising in clusters at un- 
 equal distances from the coast all around. The broad blue 
 waters of the apparently boundless ocean, seen through the
 
 CHAP. in. VIEW FROM THE SUMMIT OF THE POUCE. 93 
 
 openings between the mountains and reflecting the rays of 
 a vertical sun, presented one of the most grand and magnifi- 
 cent panoramas it is possible to imagine. My companions, 
 however, were soon sufficiently self-possessed to commence 
 sketching some of the adjacent clusters of mountains. It 
 was enough for me to recline on the coarse grass, and, rest- 
 ing my elbow on a projecting piece of rock, to gaze in si- 
 lence upon the wonderful and magnificent spectacle before 
 me. By the operation of what tremendous forces had these 
 vast masses of mountain and plain been placed in the posi- 
 tions they now occupied ! how many ages had been requi- 
 site to invest these mountains and plains with the aspect 
 they now wore ! and through how many ages had they pre- 
 sented the same natural aspects unseen by any human eye ! 
 for when the island was discovered, only 350 years ago, no 
 traces of its ever having been inhabited were found. And 
 then how extreme had been the vicissitudes of human ex- 
 perience within its borders ! what suffering and misery had 
 been endured amid all their natural loveliness during the 
 existence of slavery, with the wretchedness or wrong con- 
 nected with which, legend or tradition associates some of 
 the most striking natural objects in the island. How strik- 
 ing too the contrast betwixt the solitude of the past and the 
 activity, energy, and busy population of the present ! And 
 then, what may be its future? But my companions had 
 finished their sketches, and we began to descend. On en- 
 tering the wood we collected specimens of plants and ferns 
 at the different points we had marked on our way up ; and 
 by the time we had reached the shoulder of the mountain 
 the men were pretty well loaded. Among the ferns were 
 beautiful specimens of Asplenium macrophyllum and Adian- 
 tum pattens. A few clouds had gathered round the summit 
 of the mountain, or the heat would have been severe. As 
 it was, we were glad to seek the thickest shade for rest 
 while the men prepared our dinner.
 
 94 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. in. 
 
 Having dispatched our repast, with a refreshing cup of 
 tea, one of my companions returned direct to the town, and 
 the other and myself penetrated the wood along the base 
 of the mountain in search of plants. A healthy Angrcecum 
 elalum in flower, and a fine specimen of the calanthe-look- 
 ing plant, were among the first we found. The bed of the 
 ravine was filled up with masses of rock covered with 
 trees and overgrown with creepers and ferns. Such su- 
 perb specimens I had never dreamed of. A frond of As- 
 plenium nidus was between five and six feet long, and 
 eight inches across, covered on the under side with the 
 most beautiful fructification. One head of graceful Loma- 
 ria circinala I could not help bringing away with me, for it 
 was covered with seed ; as were some other beautiful kinds, 
 which I hope to reproduce from the seed thus secured. 
 We saw but few flowering plants here. The fragrant ery- 
 throspermum and the amaranthus-like Onaphalium multi- 
 caule, and others in flower, were only seen on the higher 
 parts of the mountains. Orchids, however, were still the 
 chief objects of our search, and we were soon separated by 
 the masses of rock intervening between the objects to 
 which we were attracted in different directions ; so that we 
 hailed each other sometimes from a considerable distance, 
 as, one after another, some apparently new form of orchid 
 presented itself to view ; and to be actually among plants 
 of this rare and beautiful kind, growing in their natural 
 state amid all the novel forms and rich and wild luxuri- 
 ance of tropical vegetation, was to^me a source of extreme 
 delight; and my companion seemed scarcely less gratified 
 than myself. 
 
 The men who accompanied us had been so loaded on 
 the higher parts of the mountain that they declined follow- 
 ing us into the ravine ; and we at first satisfied ourselves 
 with noticing the spots where we found any thing attract- 
 ive, and promising ourselves a future visit; but, almost
 
 CHAP. in. RETURN OF MR. CAMERON FROM TAMATAVE. 95 
 
 unconsciously, we kept accumulating choice bits, or bunches 
 too precious to be left, and then tying them together with 
 tough fibrous creepers, until we had each amassed more 
 than we could possibly carry through the interlaced thicket 
 to the road, which, after repeatedly reducing our bundles, 
 we at length found, and reached home late in the evening, 
 fatigued, but refreshed and invigorated for accustomed 
 duty by the pleasant day's excursion, and highly gratified 
 with the new wonders and beauties of the Creator's works 
 which we had beheld. 
 
 As the month of November advanced the people of 
 Mauritius became anxious for tidings from Madagascar, 
 and on the 19th of this month the Nimble arrived with 
 Messrs. Cameron and Mangeot from Tamatave, where they 
 had accomplished the object of their visit, having paid the 
 sum required by the queen as compensation for the injury 
 inflicted on the country, and secured the reopening of the 
 trade on the same footing as that on which it had been 
 carried on before the attack of the French and English 
 vessels. Traffic was now to be free to people of all na- 
 tions; prices were to be fixed between buyer and seller; 
 ten per cent, duty was to be levied on all exports and im- 
 ports ; and n natives of Madagascar were to be taken out 
 of the country. 
 
 After communicating with the authorities at Tamatave, 
 Messrs. Cameron and Mangeot had addressed a letter to 
 the secretary of the government at the capital, and also to 
 the Queen of Madagascar, stating the object of their visit, 
 and that they had brought the sum of money required as a 
 preliminary to the restoration of the trade. From the sec- 
 retary an official letter was received, and on the terms 
 therein specified the money was paid, and the Hasina, or 
 customary offering to the sovereign, given and received, in 
 token of the amity existing between the respective parties. 
 
 The following is the secretary's letter :
 
 96 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR CHAP. m. 
 
 " Antannarivo, 23 Asoratany, 1854, 23d October, 1853. 
 
 " To Messrs. J. CAMEKON and A. MANGEOT, and the peo- 
 ple who sent them with this payment for the offense 
 committed by William Kelly and Remain Desfosses, and 
 their companions in three ships. 
 
 "I have to inform you that I have told our superior 
 officers, and that our superior officers have told our queen, 
 respecting the 15,000 dollars proposed to b,e paid by you 
 for (or on account of) the offense of Remain Desfosses and 
 William Kelly, and their companions in three ships, you 
 having declared that this, payment gives you no claim 
 either on the land nor on the kingdom. 
 
 " Now in regard to the 15,000 dollars, our superior offi- 
 cers have directed that the money be received, so we will 
 receive it, and the trade will be opened. . 
 
 "And thus will the trade be opened. As the custom 
 duties do not belong to others (or to subjects), but to the 
 Queen of Madagascar, so we will take the custom duties 
 both on imports and exports as formerly for we change 
 not. 
 
 "And in regard to the exportation of slaves beyond the 
 sea, Radama disliked that practice, and our queen has made 
 no alteration ; therefore we can not export slaves beyond 
 the sea. 
 
 " And this also has to be told to you. A certain Euro- 
 pean, a Frenchman, has taken possession of a place at 
 Ibaly, as a port for ships, where he is residing, and erecting 
 a house and a magazine. Our superior officers have there- 
 fore sent to drive him away beyond sea. We shall not kill 
 him, but his property shall be taken as our spoil, for he 
 has taken possession of a port. But though we have said 
 we shall not kill him, yet, if he kills any of the soldiers, 
 the soldiers will kill him. And this is told to you lest you 
 should say, Wfry, after trade is opened, do you again de- 
 stroy the property of Europeans ?
 
 CHAP. in. LETTER FROM THE QUEEN'S SECRETARY. 97 
 
 " And this also has to be told to you. If any European 
 shall land at any place within the boundary of Madagascar, 
 where there are not soldiers stationed, and take possession 
 of that place as a port, such conduct will be an offense, and 
 his property will be taken as our spoil, and he himself will 
 be driven away beyond the sea. 
 
 " And this also has to be told to you, that, as each sover- 
 eign has established the law of the land, whether it be our 
 sovereign or your sovereign, so in our land the things we 
 do not sell are not to be shipped upon the sea ; and in re- 
 gard to the things you do not sell, you, of course, need not 
 bring them for sale. 
 
 " Farewell ; health, etc., to you, saith 
 
 " EAINIKIETAKA, 
 
 " 13 Honor, Officer of the Palace." 
 
 The event so earnestly desired by many of the people of 
 Madagascar was announced by the firing of cannons from 
 the fort. A public dinner was given to Messrs. Cameron 
 and Mangeot, and other Europeans in the island, and gen- 
 eral rejoicing was manifested by the inhabitants. The Nim- 
 ble had brought back to Mauritius a cargo of ninety-three 
 oxen, in proof that the trade was really open ; and three 
 French vessels from Bourbon, which had been waiting for 
 the conclusion of the negotiations between the merchants of 
 Mauritius and the native government, immediately took on 
 board cargoes of cattle for that island. 
 
 G
 
 98 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. iv. 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 Visit to the Governor at Reduit. Luxuriance of Tropical Vegetation. 
 Plants and Flowers from Europe and Asia. Arrival of a Missionary from 
 India. Proposed Efforts for the religious Instruction of the Coolies. 
 Efforts on behalf of the Creole Population of Grande Riviere. Photog- 
 raphy in the Tropics. Visit to Mr. Cheron at Plaines Wilhelms. Fete 
 of the Children in the School. Sugar-works on the Estate. Place of 
 Worship for the Malagasy. Excursion to the Country. Spice Planta- 
 tions at Grande Donjon. Preparations for the Feast of the New Year. 
 Permission given to bury the Skulls of English and Frenchmen fixed on 
 Poles at Tamatave. Visit to Beau Bassin and Wolmar. Magnificent 
 Species of Artocarpus. Effects of frequent Hurricanes. Heat of the 
 Weather. Preparation for a Hurricane. Visit to the Royal Gardens at 
 Pamplemouses. Splendid Avenue of Palms. Missionary Stations in the 
 Country. Missionary Anniversary at Port Louis. The Cemetery. 
 Fearful Ravages of the Cholera at Mauritius. Departure for Madagascar. 
 
 THE Governor of Mauritius, Sir J. M. Higginson, had, 
 since my return, requested to be furnished with a statement 
 of the more general results of our visit, and I went about 
 this time to spend two or three days with him at Reduit, 
 his country residence on the borders of Plaines Wilhelms, 
 and about seven miles from Port Louis. On arriving I re- 
 ceived a very cordial welcome, and at dinner in the even- 
 ing I met Mr. and Mrs. Rawson, Mr. Kerr, and Mr. Tupper. 
 Mr. Rawson, whose hospitality I had already experienced at 
 Cernd, his charming residence on the northern border of 
 Plaines Wilhelms, was the treasurer of the colony, and Mr. 
 Kerr the auditor-general. Mr. Tupper, an invalid clergy- 
 man, traveling for his health, was brother to the author of 
 " Proverbial Philosophy" and other well-known publica- 
 tions. The evening passed very pleasantly, conversation
 
 CHAP. iv. THE DOMAIN OF REDUIT. 99 
 
 being occasionally enlivened by music and singing. The 
 temperature of the rooms was delightful. Eeduit seemed to 
 me nearly ten degrees cooler than Port Louis. I had much 
 conversation with the governor on the state of education in 
 the island, and at a late hour retired to rest. It was to me 
 a novel spectacle to see large tiger-skins hanging over the 
 banisters of the stairs leading to the sleeping-rooms, look- 
 ing as if but recently taken from the bodies of their own- 
 ers, and showing the holes of the bullets by which they had 
 been killed. The governor had formerly resided in India, 
 and I supposed these were trophies of the wild sports of the 
 East. 
 
 Early the next morning I walked over the extensive do- 
 main of Eeduit, visiting portions which I had been unable 
 to reach on the previous evening. The house, which stands 
 upon a gradual slope extending from the elevated plain to 
 the sea, is spacious but low. The centre, both of the front 
 and the back of the house, is protected from the sun by 
 broad corridors, and the ends are shaded by verandas and 
 trellis-work overgrown with passion-flowers and other creep- 
 ing plants. On the side of the house toward the sea was a 
 flower-garden, and at the northern end a lawn bordered 
 with shrubs and enlivened by flower-beds cut out in the 
 turf. At Eeduit, as well as Genie, I found several familiar 
 plants, and their unexpected appearance seemed like meet- 
 ing with old friends. Among the roses, a small flowering 
 noisette was in full bloom. Devoniensis appeared with long 
 slender shoots and thin-petaled, pale flowers. Fuchsias, re- 
 cently introduced from the Cape, oenotheras, achimenes, 
 gloxinias, and heliotropes, mignonnette, and violets, were 
 growing side by side with Allamanda Scliottu. Russelia jun- 
 cia, Poinsettia, Gardenia, and other plants requiring artificial 
 heat in England, all flourished luxuriantly in the open air. 
 A beautiful aleurites grew near the end of the house, and 
 beside it a fine, large Ablutans striata, with large, dark-
 
 100 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. iv. 
 
 orange flowers, having deep, clear, claret-colored penciled 
 markings. Wherever I meet with home flowers, I always 
 expect to find strong home feelings, and rejoice in this 
 means of perpetually reviving them. 
 
 In an artificial stone basin were a number of arums, re- 
 sembling Arum costatum. The fleshy root stood a foot or 
 more out of the water, and the large, strong-ribbed, shining 
 green leaves seemed to be eight or ten feet high. I fre- 
 quently saw the same species growing wild in the swampy 
 parts of Madagascar. There were also, near the same place, 
 an India-rubber-tree, and some splendid Artocarpus intcyri- 
 folia, or jack-trees, with their immense oval fruit of a green- 
 ish yellow hanging, not amid the spreading branches, but 
 on a small short stem growing from the trunk or from the 
 large branches of the tree. In the kitchen-garden, which 
 was extensive, the common China rose, or rose Edward, 
 formed complete hedges along some of the walks. Peas, 
 French beans, and other European vegetables, were grow- 
 ing well here, though not so luxuriantly as at Cerne ; but 
 of strawberries there were large beds apparently going out 
 of bearing. Beyond this garden, at some distance in the 
 same direction, were ponds supplied with water-fowl, and 
 farther on the maize and banana plantations, with the huts 
 of the Creoles and other laborers. 
 
 Leaving these, I walked over the grounds, which were ex- 
 tensive and varied, affording occasionally, where the trees 
 and brushwood had been cleared away, on one hand, a view 
 of the ocean, with the small white sails of the coasting ves- 
 sels glittering in the morning sun, on the other, of the 
 mountains of Moka, and those extending from the Pouce to 
 within about a mile from the grounds. 
 
 A deep, rocky, and steep ravine bounded the domain on 
 the north, and added greatly to the variety and beauty of 
 the scenery. At the bottom of this ravine a rapid stream 
 sparkled along its course from the mountains of Moka to
 
 CHAP. iv. RETURN TO PORT LOUIS. 101 
 
 the sea. Notwithstanding the stony nature of the sides of 
 the ravine, they were covered with the richest verdure, 
 among which hung garlands of graceful creepers, while 
 arums often lined the borders of the stream, altogether af- 
 fording most enticing bits of scenery, heightened in effect 
 by the mimic cascades or waterfalls which foamed along 
 among the fragments of rock and stone. Near this scene 
 I came, in the course of my walk, upon a sort of lady's gar- 
 den concealed by evergreens and flowering shrubs, and con- 
 taining a choice collection of plants, many of them in flow- 
 er, especially the passion-flowers of nearly every hue, and 
 the rich crimson Poivrea coccinea, almost dazzling in the 
 bright rays of the morning sun. 
 
 In the vicinity of the house, on both sides, were a num- 
 ber of remarkable trees. A fine spreading banyan, not the 
 largest I had seen, but one of the most perfect specimens of 
 a young tree, attracted my attention, as well as a beautiful 
 Indian acacia on the opposite side of the house, while the 
 groups of magnificent sago-trees were alike singular and 
 beautiful. 
 
 On returning, I was glad to unite in the morning worship 
 of the family, which was conducted with great propriety and 
 seriousness. At the breakfast, which immediately followed, 
 the large dish of freshly-gathered strawberries, with which 
 the repast concluded, reminded me, in a very agreeable 
 manner, as did many circumstances and scenes in Mauritius, 
 of similar enjoyments formerly shared while residing at the 
 foot of the Pyrenees in France. 
 
 As the governor went on the same day to Port Louis to 
 preside at the Legislative Council, I was glad to take a seat 
 on the box of his carriage ; and the day being rather cooler 
 than usual, there was something quite inspiriting reviving 
 recollections of stage-coach days in England in setting off 
 behind four well-bred and well-appointed horses, in high 
 spirits, and seeming as if they liked to hear the music of
 
 102 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR CHAP. iv. 
 
 their hoofs pattering in concert as they trotted along the 
 smooth macadamized road. 
 
 A short time previous to this visit, Mr. Hardy, a Wesleyan 
 missionary, had arrived from Madras with his wife and fam- 
 ily on his way to the Cape for the recovery of his health. 
 On reaching Mauritius he was too ill to proceed, and was 
 brought on shore with but slight hopes of his recovery. I 
 visited him on the day of his arrival, and frequently after- 
 ward, and was much pleased to observe his gradual recov- 
 ery. A few days after my return from Eeduit I attended a 
 conference of friends whom he had invited to advise with 
 him as to the desirableness of his remaining in Mauritius, 
 and devoting his efforts to the religious instruction of the 
 Coolies, or Indian laborers in the island. Some of the 
 planters and other Christian residents had often expressed 
 their deep regret on account of the want of every means of 
 religious improvement for these laborers, of whom there 
 were 90,000 in Mauritius. An attempt which had been 
 made to teach some of their children English, had proved 
 abortive ; but the want was felt to be so pressing, the num- 
 ber to whom access could be obtained so considerable, and 
 >the hope so encouraging of securing native agents either as 
 schoolmasters, Scripture-readers, or colporteurs and Bible 
 distributors, that Mr. Hardy was recommended to remain at 
 Mauritius with his family, until he could receive the in- 
 structions of his society in England. Mr. Hardy remained 
 some months in Port Louis, distributing the Scriptures, and 
 preaching in his own hired house to such as came to hear 
 him ; and, though not without individual instances of bene- 
 ficial results, yet, as he did not receive instructions from 
 England to remain, he subsequently proceeded to the Cape 
 of Good Hope, and finally to Australia. 
 
 I still continued to preach every Sunday to small but 
 attentive congregations of seamen and others at the Port 
 Office. In the afternoon I attended the French service at
 
 CHAP. iv. LE BRUN'S LABORS AT GRANDE RIVIERE. 103 
 
 M. Le Bran's ; and as some members of Mr. Kelsey's house- 
 hold did not understand French, we usually had a short 
 English service with the European portion of the family, 
 Mr. Kelsey holding his usual daily service with the domes- 
 tics about the premises in French. 
 
 Until within a few months of our arrival, Mr. Kelsey 
 and his family had resided at Grande Kiviere, about two 
 miles from Port Louis, in a southerly direction. While 
 here they had endeavored to be useful among the Creole 
 population of the place, and were greatly encouraged by 
 the assistance of a pious woman of color, a domestic in 
 their own family, who first began by instructing her fellow- 
 servants, then extended her efforts to others, and then en- 
 gaged a room for the purpose of religious worship. Messrs. 
 Le Brun visited the place every Sunday afternoon, and 
 once in the week besides. The numbers attending became 
 so numerous as to render it necessary to add another room 
 by taking down a partition, and finally a third, all of which 
 were at this time well filled with serious and attentive hear- 
 ers. Mr. and Mrs. Kelsey had generously defrayed the ex- 
 pense of the place, and rejoiced in the benefit which the 
 people of color at Grande Eiviere enjoyed in the faithful 
 preaching of the Gospel among them. 
 
 Early in the month of December, I accompanied M. Le 
 Brun, senior, to the celebration of the anniversary of their 
 labors here. About seventy persons were present, who 
 listened with seriousness and apparently devout attention 
 to a plain and affectionate discourse from the venerable 
 pastor. I was not surprised at the satisfaction his arrival 
 seemed to afford, when I remembered his labors for their 
 benefit, which had often excited my sincere admiration, 
 when I had seen him, after preaching to a large congrega- 
 tion in Port Louis, and allowing only a very short interval 
 for rest, set off for a walk of two miles in the middle of the 
 day, the thermometer standing perhaps at 84 or 86, for
 
 104 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. ir. 
 
 the purpose of preaching the Gospel to a few poor laborers 
 and other people of color gathered together in a hired room. 
 The recollection of this explained to me the cordial greet- 
 ing which he and his son received after the interesting 
 services were over. 
 
 Grande Riviere is an important suburb of Port Louis, 
 the residence of several merchants and others whose places 
 of business are in the port. A number of Creoles reside 
 here in the capacity of servants, mechanics, or small shop- 
 keepers ; and it was gratifying to see any efforts made for 
 their moral and spiritual benefit, especially as those efforts 
 appeared to be attended with evidence that good was done. 
 As an instance of this I must mention that, about a month 
 after the anniversary, my friend, M. Le Brun, senior, was 
 agreeably surprised one morning by a colored man coming 
 to him and informing him that he and another man had 
 made up their minds to build at Grande Kiviere a substan- 
 tial stone chapel, fifty feet long and twenty or twenty-five 
 feet wide ; that he possessed a piece of ground in an eligi- 
 ble place, which he would give for the purpose ; and that 
 when the chapel was finished he would at once give him 
 possession of it. When I left for my second visit to Mada- 
 gascar, the ground was marked out, and preparations for a 
 commencement made. Before I finally left the colony the 
 chapel was finished, and was filled with hearers every Sun- 
 day. 
 
 Besides my interest in the religious improvement of the 
 people, other objects sometimes led me to Grande Riviere. 
 Soon after my arrival at Mauritius I had made the acquaint- 
 ance of Dr. Powell, who had charge of the Lunatic Asy- 
 lum at Grande Riviere and resided there. He was familiar 
 with chemistry, and had recently commenced the practice 
 of photography. As I had brought out the requisite ap- 
 paratus, and had attempted to take some of the more strik- 
 ing views in the neighborhood, as well as portraits of indi-
 
 CHAP. iv. PHOTOGRAPHY IN THE TROPICS. 105 
 
 viduals, especially such as were good specimens of the dif- 
 ferent races to be found in Port Louis ; and as I had often 
 experienced disappointment in the results, arising from 
 causes which, under conditions of light and of atmosphere 
 so different from those of England, it was not easy at first 
 either to comprehend or rectify, I was glad to have occa- 
 sional recourse to Dr. Powell, in order that we might com- 
 pare notes and help each other out of difficulties. 
 
 My difficulties arose from diversified causes. Some of 
 them were subsequently removed, others still remained, 
 either owing to my defective knowledge of the subject or 
 inability to procure the appropriate remedies. I had taken 
 out a considerable quantity of carefully -packed waxed and 
 iodized paper, under the generally-inculcated belief that it 
 would keep good for any length of time in any climate ; 
 but I found it useless. 
 
 Yet, notwithstanding all my difficulties, I succeeded in 
 obtaining valuable memorials of my visit in a number of 
 correct representations of some of the most rare and beauti- 
 ful natural objects which I met with, both in Mauritius and 
 Madagascar among those obtained here were views of the 
 town, harbor, and shipping from the battery hill, together 
 with some attractive portions of the suburbs and adjacent 
 mountains and to these I was able to add portraits of 
 some of the most important classes of the people. Nothing 
 surprised me more than the striking contrasts which the 
 physical organization of the natives from Madagascar pre- 
 sented, comprising apparently specimens of pure African 
 races, with the Malayan or Polynesian; and presenting 
 among the Hovas, or people inhabiting the central portion 
 of the island, a remarkable resemblance to the European 
 conformation of head and features. 
 
 During the hottest summer months few people remain in 
 Port Louis who can avoid it, and as there could be no com- 
 munication with Madagascar during the first three months
 
 10G VISITS TO MADAGASCAR CHAP. iv. 
 
 of the year, and consequently nothing requiring my partic- 
 ular attention at the port, I was glad to avail myself of ev- 
 ery opportunity that offered for visiting the country dis- 
 tricts. On the 13th of December I accompanied M. Le Brun 
 to Plaines Wilhelms, to attend the anniversary services of 
 the opening of the chapel and school at M. Cheron's. We 
 left Port Louis early, and on our way passed numerous 
 carts loaded with sugar or timber, generally drawn by 
 mules and driven by Coolies. The loads seemed to me 
 heavy, but the animals drawing them were in good condi- 
 tion and did not appear overworked. M. Le Brun more 
 than once remarked on the different mode of transporting 
 timber, sugar, and other produce now, as compared with 
 that employed during many years after his arrival in the 
 colony in 1814. There were then few beasts of draught or 
 burden in the island. Travelers were carried from place 
 to place in a sort of palanquin on men's shoulders. Carts, 
 from whatever distance they came, with whatever they 
 were loaded, whether with timber, stones, or any thing else, 
 were all drawn by slaves, attended by their drivers, twenty 
 slaves being sometimes yoked to one cart. They usually 
 traveled in the night, as they were able to draw the same 
 load a much greater distance then than during the oppress- 
 ive heat of the day. 
 
 Our road lay through a succession of extensive sugar- 
 plantations, and we reached our destination, a distance of 
 ten or eleven miles from Port Louis, before nine o'clock. 
 Here I was cordially welcomed by M. Cheron, and found a 
 small pavilion consisting of two rooms appropriated to my 
 use. After a cup of coffee we proceeded to the premises 
 which M. Cheron has, with great liberality and desire for 
 the welfare of those around him, appropriated to religious 
 purposes. The chapel is a neat stone building, with a paved 
 stone floor and a metal roof, surmounted by a cupola and 
 bell The building is plainly fitted up, and will hold 200
 
 CHAP. ir. ANNIVERSAEY AT PLAINES WILHELMS. 107 
 
 persons. At a short distance a comfortable house, compris- 
 ing five or six rooms, has been built for the residence of a 
 missionary, and in the yard attached to the house is a stone 
 kitchen. I looked over the residence, which for its small 
 size is well arranged. M. Cheron had written to England 
 for a missionary to be sent to this station, and expressed 
 himself ready to contribute liberally toward his support. 
 
 Soon after we had assembled in the chapel, the scholars, 
 most of them colored children, but dressed in white, were 
 marched from the school to the chapel. The master stood 
 behind a table, on which a number of books very tastefully 
 bound were placed. The parents of the children and the 
 visitors sat around. A number of little girls and boys re- 
 cited pieces of poetry, or dialogue, in French. The venera- 
 ble pastor, M. Le Brun, offered up prayer on their behalf, 
 and gave a short address. The master read a paper on the 
 advantages and responsibilities of education, after which the 
 most successful and well-behaved scholars were called one 
 by one to the table to receive their prizes. When the mas- 
 ter had announced the ground of the award, one of the vis- 
 itors gave the book appropriated to the successful scholar, 
 at the same time placing a garland of flowers, consisting 
 chiefly of roses, upon the head of the delighted child. By 
 this arrangement it sometimes happened that a father, moth- 
 er, or grandmother rewarded and crowned their own little 
 child. It was the first time I had witnessed any thing of 
 the kind, and I could not but regard this simple and grace- 
 ful performance as an agreeable means of enhancing the 
 gratification of both parties. 
 
 At the close of the examination the anniversary service 
 in the chapel commenced, and M. Le Brun preached a plain, 
 instructive, and useful sermon to an attentive congregation. 
 The chapel was full, a number of friends having come from 
 a distance. At the conclusion of the service the children 
 were regaled with a sort of sweetened drink, or sirup, and
 
 108 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. iv. 
 
 we returned to M. Cheron's, where a company of between 
 twenty and thirty sat down to what was designated a dejeu- 
 ner, but in reality a substantial dinner, under the broad ve- 
 randa outside the house. 
 
 M. Cheron is a person of color, and a man of great force 
 of character, as well as energy and intelligence ; a respecta- 
 ble and prosperous planter, owning more than one estate, . 
 and employing 356 Indian laborers. He is a member of the 
 church under the pastoral care of M. Le Brun, in Port Louis, 
 and a zealous and efficient coadjutor in the promotion of 
 measures for the instruction and spiritual benefit of the peo- 
 ple in the district in which he resides, and where he is held 
 in high and deserved estimation. 
 
 Toward evening I walked with M. Charon over part of 
 his plantation, admiring the view of rich and varied land- 
 scape of cane-fields and mountains which successive eleva- 
 tions afforded, and almost astonished at the size attained by 
 the canes, which in some places were twelve or fifteen feet 
 high. 
 
 Soon after nine the next morning I joined the family as- 
 sembly in the great house. It was quite a patriarchal gath- 
 ering. Besides M. and Mme. Cheron, and their oldest son 
 and daughter in the prime of youthful life, the father and 
 mother of the former Mme. Charon, and one of her sisters, 
 were permanent members of the household. Then there 
 was another sister, a widow, and several daughters, besides 
 others more or less related to the hospitable host. All ap- 
 peared to constitute one harmonious family. The break- 
 fast-table was spread at one end of a large veranda, per- 
 haps eight feet wide, and extending the whole length of the 
 house. The viands were abundant, rice being the substitute 
 for bread, and, as a guest, I was provided with tea. 
 
 In the forenoon I accompanied M. Che'ron to his sugar- 
 works, where the new processes of preparing the sugar by 
 vacuum pans were in operation, by which means some thou-
 
 CHAP. iv. PLACE OF WORSHIP FOR THE MALAGASY. 109 
 
 \ 
 sand pounds of sugar, finely crystallized and beautifully 
 
 white, were produced every day. On returning, I found 
 several of the scholars who had been successful at the ex- 
 amination waiting for the fulfillment of a promise I had made 
 them on the previous day of taking their likenesses, and 
 with some I succeeded, apparently much to their satisfaction. 
 In my evening walk I was much amused to see the various 
 pursuits carried on in different parts of the establishment, 
 rendering it altogether very much like a village. By the 
 road-side was a shop kept by one of M. Cheron's relatives, 
 in which clothing, cutlery, crockery- ware, and groceries were 
 sold. There were also, in other parts of the premises, a car- 
 penter's shop, a smith's, a wheelwright's, and a cooper's. 
 Later in the evening my photographs and stereoscope seem- 
 ed to afford the different members of the family great enter- 
 tainment, and M. Cheron contributed much valuable infor- 
 mation relative to the former state of the neighborhood. 
 
 A few days after my return from Plaines Wilhelms, I 
 accompanied M. Le Brun to the opening of a new place for 
 religious instruction among the Malagasy residing in the 
 camp or suburb, along the foot of the signal hill. Many of 
 the former slaves in the island were natives of Madagascar, 
 or the descendants of such. A number of the Malagasy still 
 retain their native language, and to this number additions 
 are made of those who from time to time have reached the 
 colony in search of employment, and it was thought desira- 
 ble to provide a place in the midst of their own location in 
 which religious instruction might be given to the adults, in 
 addition to that already provided for their children. With 
 this view the building now appropriated to religious wor- 
 ship had been provided. The services here on the Sabbath 
 and week days are still continued. 
 
 The day after the house for Malagasy worship was opened, 
 viz., the 24th of December, the air was unusually oppressive, 
 and there were indications of an approaching hurricane.
 
 110 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. iv. 
 
 The ships in the harbor lowered their upper masts and 
 yards, but toward evening the atmosphere became more set- 
 tled, and the next day, which was Sunday, and also Christ- 
 mas-day, though hot, was remarkably fine. I went out to 
 Mr. Kelsey's, into whose family circle I was admitted as one 
 of their Christmas party. Between nine and ten I returned, 
 greatly enjoying my walk. The mild, soft, fragrant atmos- 
 phere, and the bright starlight of a cloudless sky, render 
 the evenings here unspeakably refreshing and pleasant, after 
 the fierce burning heat of the day. 
 
 My friend, Mr. Kelsey, having arranged to take his usual 
 New Year's holiday on the 31st of December, and having 
 kindly included me in the family party, I was glad to obtain 
 a seat on the box of their carriage as we drove away from 
 Latanier, his residence, soon after six o'clock. It was Sat- 
 urday, market-day, and for some time I could do little more 
 than gaze at the diversified forms, faces, costumes, and vehi- 
 cles which thronged the road leading to Port Louis. Among 
 these were Indians in their holiday dresses of white and 
 scarlet ; others heavily laden with large baskets full of ba- 
 nanas, mangoes, pine-apples, or peaches, on their heads; 
 and numbers of Chinese literally bending under the weight 
 of their load of fruit or vegetables, with perhaps half a dozen 
 fowls tied at the top. The Indians and Africans carry their 
 loads on their heads, but the Chinese carry theirs at the 
 ends of an elastic stick borne across the shoulders. These, 
 in an almost uninterrupted stream, occupied the sides of the 
 road, while the centre was traversed by a constant succes- 
 sion of large carts loaded with sugar, and drawn by mules 
 or bullocks ; besides which were the cabriolets and gigs of 
 the planters or merchants. 
 
 After proceeding for some miles in a southerly direction 
 parallel to the coast, we turned toward the interior, and 
 passed through a rich and picturesque part of the island, 
 different in some respects from the Moka, and Plaines Wil-
 
 CHAP. iv. EXCUESION INTO THE COUNTRY. Ill 
 
 helms side, but equally beautiful. Our road, bordered by 
 large tamarind and other fine trees, among which was the 
 flamboyant, o-rPoinciana regia, now in full bloom, lay through 
 a valley to the northward of Mountain Long, and presented 
 on either hand plantations of cane or manioc, with the huts 
 of Creoles or Coolies, and the dwellings of planters. More 
 distant, the Bay of Tombs lay in placid repose on the one 
 hand, and the lofty and singularly formed mountain of the 
 Peter Botte on the other. 
 
 The cool morning air, the novel aspects of the scenery, 
 both of mountain and plain, combined to render the jour- 
 ney interesting and pleasant, and I was musing on the pro- 
 fusion with which the beneficent Creator had diffused over 
 the face of nature forms of purity and beauty almost in lav- 
 ish exuberance, when I noticed, at a short distance from the 
 road, an Indian woman sitting on the ground among the 
 flowers of a species of jessamine growing uninclosed by any 
 fence round the door of her straw hut. She held a bunch 
 of the sweet flowers in her hand, apparently enjoying their 
 fragrance, for she took no notice of our passing, and was, 
 perhaps, in thought, far away among the flowers with which 
 she had been familiar in her native country. 
 
 After passing for some distance along a steep descent, we 
 reached a stream of water, and alighted, as our carriage 
 could proceed no farther. After crossing the brook, we as- 
 cended by a steep and somewhat circuitous route, until, aft- 
 er walking about three quarters of a mile, .we reached the 
 Grande Donjon, the residence of Mr. Kittery, an Indian gen- 
 tleman. The house with this remarkable name stands on a 
 steep pile of basaltic or volcanic rock, rising almost perpen- 
 dicularly from the adjacent valley. The proprietor of the 
 place, in Indian costume, met us as we approached, and 
 gave us a cordial welcome, which was repeated by his wife, 
 a Mauritian lady of French parentage ; and after our walk 
 we were glad to rest ourselves in some large cane arm-chairs
 
 112 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. IT. 
 
 standing about under the trees in front of the house. While 
 seated here refreshing ourselves with a cup of tea and its 
 accompaniments, which Mrs. Kelsey's forethought had pro- 
 vided, a servant brought us a large basketful of pine-ap- 
 ples, and soon afterward quite a hamperful of ripe peach- 
 es, which made an agreeable addition to our breakfast. I 
 then explored the garden in front of the house, which was 
 almost inclosed on three sides with roses in full bloom. The 
 pretty little noisette TOSGjfeliciieperpetuelle,was conspicuous 
 among them, as was another, like Devoniensis, only paler. 
 In this mountain garden I found the Clerodendron falcata in 
 splendid bloom, with blue hydrangeas, China asters, agera- 
 tum, kaliopsis, Lilium longiflora, Brompton stocks, verbenas, 
 heliotropes, and many other familiar plants. 
 
 Beyond the garden to the west was a terrace, also border- 
 ed with roses, which commanded a fine view of the valley 
 along which we had traveled, with the stream winding its 
 way to the sea, the woods, plantations, and dwellings spread 
 over the plain, and the wide ocean beyond. Our host next 
 led us through his plantation of fruits and spices. The lat- 
 ter consisted chiefly of cloves. During the early part of the 
 French occupation of Mauritius great attention was given 
 to the introduction and culture of spices ; and though the 
 changes that have since taken place in the commercial in- 
 tercourse with the spice-growing islands of the East have 
 rendered their production in Mauritius less important and 
 profitable, a few plantations are still to be seen. The trees, 
 about twenty feet high, were many of them in full blossom. 
 The parasite vanilla was here cultivated as an article of 
 commerce, for the sake of the perfume it supplies. Passing 
 down the mountain-side through a thick grove of mango- 
 trees, we visited some chalybeate springs, where the ferru- 
 ginous color of the rock and soil around indicated the abun- 
 dance of iron in the spring. Soon after three in the after- 
 noon we returned from our walk, and found a very accept-
 
 CHAP. iv. PREPARATIONS FOR THE NEW YEAR'S FEAST. 113 
 
 able tiffin or luncheon awaiting us, in which the greatest 
 rarity to me was a fruit called Barbadoes cherry. About 
 four we took our leave, much gratified by the intelligence 
 and urbanity of our host. 
 
 It was the eve of New Year's day, a season of general 
 festivity here, and of this we soon perceived various indica- 
 tions. As we traveled along I could not help noticing the 
 activity with which colored butchers, male and female, were 
 cutting up large pigs and other animals, generally suspend- 
 ed from the branch of a large tamarind-tree by the road- 
 side ; while crowds were gathered round, either admiring 
 the animal or waiting for a portion of it. We also met 
 many a toil-worn beast, horse, donkey, or mule, drawing 
 out a whole Creole family, father, mother, children, and 
 servant, to some country cousin's, for the coming holiday. 
 
 Some of the Indian huts were already ornamented in 
 honor of the new year with strings of flowers hung along 
 the front of the verandas for almost every hut, however 
 small, can boast a veranda. In one place I saw an Indian 
 under a tree with a number of strings of flowers for sale. 
 The flowers seemed to be the orange-colored Allamanda 
 Schottiij and a fragrant plumaria, very abundant just now. 
 Several parties were examining the flowers, and the vender 
 was stretching out his arms just as we were passing by, so 
 as to show one of his wreaths to the best advantage. But 
 the most gratifying of all these sights to me were the New 
 Year's gifts, which nearly every one seemed to be carrying 
 home. Some miles before we reached Port Louis we passed 
 young or middle-aged Creole men and women bearing on 
 their heads the baskets in which, in the morning, they had 
 carried their fruit, vegetables, or poultry for sale, and in 
 almost every one of these baskets a child's toy was to be 
 seen. Sometimes the leg of a wooden horse, a painted 
 wagon, a drum, or the long tin barrel of a painted gun 
 would protrude from beneath a handkerchief or other loose 
 
 H
 
 114 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. iv. 
 
 wrapper. Besides these there were dressed dolls without 
 number in the carriages, as well as in the baskets of the pe- 
 destrians ; and it spoke well for the social affections of the 
 laboring classes that their little ones received so large a share 
 of consideration. Indeed, it struck me that the people gen- 
 erally appeared fond of their children, and, were it not for 
 the influence exerted to dissuade the parents from sending 
 them to the government schools, the advancement .of the 
 whole race would be much more rapid than it is. 
 
 I reached home about seven in the evening, and in the 
 review of the year thus brought to its close felt abundant 
 cause for grateful acknowledgment of Divine goodness. 
 
 The first day of 1854 was a Sabbath day. The chapel in 
 which M. Le Brun preached on this day was densely crowd- 
 ed. The seats along the aisles were filled, and numbers 
 sat on the pulpit stairs. There was also a larger attend- 
 ance than usual at the port-office, and the attendance at 
 the communion - service in the afternoon was numerous, 
 many appearing to be deeply impressed with the solemnity 
 of the occasion. 
 
 After preaching in the forenoon I visited the hospital, 
 and, on returning home, found the thermometer standing at 
 88 in the coolest part of the house. Sometimes it was 
 higher than this, but I scarcely ever felt more oppressed by 
 the heat than on this day. The air seemed to scorch the 
 nostrils and lips in breathing. A strange contrast, I found 
 afterward, was presented by my account of the temperature 
 and that which my friends in England experienced on the 
 same day. 
 
 A somewhat curious, but official, transaction which took 
 place about this time may serve to show the wide difference 
 which exists between the political or diplomatic negotia- 
 tions of one country and those of another. Anxious to 
 evince their entire cordiality in the friendly relations re- 
 cently established, the government of Madagascar sent to
 
 CHAP. iv. VISIT TO BEAU BASSIN. 115 
 
 the Governor of Mauritius informing him that as the trade 
 was reopened they wished to be friendly with all ; and he 
 was therefore at liberty, if he chose, to send for the skulls 
 of his countrymen and of the French that were fixed on 
 poles at Tamatave, and to have them buried in such man- 
 ner as he preferred. Accordingly a non-commissioned of- 
 ficer was soon afterward sent to Tamatave for this purpose. 
 But, on arriving, he found that the skulls had been pre- 
 viously removed by the French, and buried at the Isle of 
 St. Mary's. 
 
 At the close of the first week in January I had the pleas- 
 ure of welcoming to Mauritius Mr. and Mrs. Kennedy, who, 
 after a visit to England for the sake of health, were on 
 their way to Benares, in India, as missionaries. They were 
 hospitably entertained at Mr. Kelsey's, as were also Mr. 
 and Mrs. Hall, who subsequently arrived on their way to 
 their important field of missionary labor at Madras, and 
 who, after a very brief but pleasant season of intercourse, 
 resumed their voyage. 
 
 The weather was now becoming increasingly oppressive, 
 the thermometer in the shade averaging 90 and upward, 
 and I was glad, toward the close of the month, to repeat 
 my visit to Beau Bassin, the residence of Mr. Brownrigg, 
 situated on Plaines Wilhelms, about six miles from Port 
 Louis. My welcome, as on a former occasion, was most 
 cordial. The comfortable pavilion which I had before oc- 
 cupied was again appropriated to my use ; and, besides the 
 refreshing coolness of the air, as compared with that of 
 Port Louis, I enjoyed the pleasure of feeling that I was no 
 longer a stranger in the place. 
 
 Beau Bassin derives its name from its good supply of 
 water, contained in several capacious and somewhat orna- 
 mental tanks or large reservoirs. The house, though not 
 modern, is cool, spacious, and convenient. The number of 
 pavilions in front, and of native huts in the rear, with cow-
 
 116 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. iv. 
 
 sheds, stables, and coach-houses, give the establishment al- 
 most the appearance of a village. The plantation itself is 
 said to be large; but around the house were extensive 
 mango-groves, with coffee and banana growing beneath 
 the trees, and an excellent kitchen-garden, among the cu- 
 riosities of which was an apple-tree in blossom which had 
 frequently borne excellent fruit. Several young trees, off- 
 shoots from the parent tree, were growing around. In front 
 of the house were a number of flower-beds of varied form 
 and size, one of the largest being surrounded with roses. 
 The large clerodendron, apparently falcata, was the most 
 abundant among the plants. Of these there were hund- 
 reds, some large bushy plants exhibiting, with great effect, 
 their tall spikes of dazzling red flowers. Mingled with 
 these was the Larpenta capensis, and the purple lantana 
 climbing over the veranda and trellis-work which shaded 
 the rooms adjoining the dwelling. I obtained a pleasant 
 memorial of my visit in some photographic views of the 
 house, and several portions of the gardens, as well as of a 
 number of rare and well-grown trees. Among the latter 
 was a luxuriant-growing Artocarpus integrifolia, or Jack-tree, 
 with a number of enormous fruit hanging nearly ripe from 
 different parts of the trunk and larger branches. This is a 
 species of bread-fruit, and though the flavor is strong, the 
 pulp is eaten by the Creoles; and ^he seeds, which are 
 large and contain a fleshy kernel, are said, when baked or 
 roasted, to be quite palatable. When I had fixed my cam- 
 era, I asked one or two of the coolies to stand near the 
 tree, to show the size .of the fruit .as compared with the 
 Indian's head. 
 
 I accompanied Mr. Brownrigg to Wolmar, one of the es- 
 tates under his charge at Black Eiver, about ten miles from 
 Beau Bassin. I greatly enjoyed the ride, as the road lay 
 through a part of the country in a high state of cultivation, 
 occasionally presenting new combinations of wooded and
 
 THE JACK-TREE. 
 
 117 
 
 ARTOCABFUS INTEG1SIFOUA, OB JACK-TBEE. 
 
 mountainous scenery. On our way I saw a beautiful tree 
 of the yellow-flowering Colvillea in blossom. This tree was 
 introduced by M. Bojer from Madagascar. Although a no- 
 ble tree, it is less magnificent than the Poinciana regia. The 
 estate of Wolmar comprises about 1200 acres, and yields 
 excellent cane. The works are furnished with vacuum- 
 pans, and some of the most recent improvements. I here 
 saw for the first time, in its different stages, the whole proc- 
 ess of sugar-making, from the grinding of the cane to the 
 final drying of the crystallized sugar. On this estate, which 
 is low, and near the sea, there were some of the largest trees 
 I had seen in the island, especially the Badamia. I noticed 
 here, what I had also observed elsewhere, that whatever
 
 118 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. iv. 
 
 might be the size of the trunks of the trees, most of the large 
 branches appeared to have been broken off at a short dis- 
 tance from the main stem, while the indentations and seams 
 in different parts of the trunk itself indicated that a great 
 arm of the tree had been violently broken off or torn out, 
 leaving in these fractured limbs and scarred trunks a memo- 
 rial of the force of the hurricanes which occasionally sweep 
 across the island. 
 
 The sky became overcast toward the end of the week, the 
 wind tempestuous, and the rapid fall of the barometer indi- 
 cated the approach of a hurricane. Guns, as signals of dis- 
 tress, were heard during the Saturday night; and on Sun- 
 day, the 29th of January, when Mr. W. Brownrigg kindly 
 drove me into Port Louis that I might discharge my Sab- 
 bath duties, I found but a small assemblage, all the ships 
 that could leave having put to sea. In the morning a Dutch 
 vessel came in dismasted and otherwise injured. During 
 the day, I also received letters from Madagascar, a vessel 
 having arrived in the unusually short time of four days 
 from Tamatave. Keturning to Plaines Wilhelms in the 
 cool of the evening was exceedingly pleasant ; on the fol- 
 lowing day, however, the rain came down in sheets, and the 
 plain was flooded. But whenever thus confined to the 
 house, I usually found my way to the well-furnished li- 
 brary; and, notwithstanding the unsettled state of the 
 weather, time passed very pleasantly at Beau Bassin ; for 
 I felt it a privilege to become acquainted with so excellent 
 a specimen of the colonial life of an English family. 
 
 It was the custom of Mrs. Brownrigg and her mother to 
 spend an hour or more in teaching in a school which had 
 been established for educating the children of the laborers 
 on the estate and others in the neighborhood. The school- 
 master had lately died, and, until another could be obtain- 
 ed, these benevolent ladies, notwithstanding the heat of the 
 weather and the unavoidable fatigue, daily occupied them-
 
 CHAP. iv. PEEPARATIONS FOR A HURRICANE. 119 
 
 selves in this manner. The school was well furnished, and 
 some of the children had made good progress. The Indian 
 children were by far the most apt, but the Creoles were 
 more docile. 
 
 Besides the members of this hospitable family, I had here 
 the pleasure of meeting with several agreeable and intelli- 
 gent friends, among them Mr. Beke, whom I afterward vis- 
 ited at his own residence, receiving from him many atten- 
 tions, and learning much of Abyssinia and Arabia, in which 
 countries he had been a distinguished and observant trav- 
 eler. 
 
 The weather in Mauritius is usually unsettled during the 
 first three months of the year, and it is at this season that 
 hurricanes occur in these regions. On the llth of Febru- 
 ary, having heard a gun fired from the fort, which I under- 
 stood was a signal for all vessels to take down their upper 
 masts and yards, while at the same time the flag was flying 
 at the port-office to warn all vessels outside to put out to 
 sea, I hastened to the post-office with my letters, deeming it 
 probable that the packet might sail earlier than the appoint- 
 ed hour, in order to avoid the storm ; and on going after- 
 ward to the landing-place, I saw the flag with a blue cross 
 flying at the port-office, indicating that a gale or hurricane 
 might be expected. The barometer had been sinking all 
 day. The sky was dark, the rain frequent, the scud was fly- 
 ing in wild confusion, and the wind increasing every hour. 
 I found the Calcutta steam-packet, instead of departing, had 
 taken down her upper yards. All the small vessels had 
 been removed from the sides of the wharves where they 
 were usually moored, the boats all drawn up, all the bags 
 of sugar or other merchandise removed from the sheds near 
 the quays, and on board all the vessels the utmost activity 
 appeared, heightened by the shouting or the songs of the 
 sailors of different nations as they were sending down their 
 yards, and many of them their top-gallant masts ; while the
 
 120 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. iv. 
 
 ships near the edge of the harbor were taking up their an- 
 chors and running out to sea to avoid being driven on shore. 
 
 Among the preparations on shore I noticed that many of 
 the straggling branches of trees in the public gardens had 
 been cut off, so as to afford the wind less hold of them. 
 The ground was already strewn with the small branches 
 and green leaves cut from the trees by the blast. It was 
 very dark all the rest of the afternoon, and the wind and 
 rain continued to increase. As I walked home through the 
 Company's garden the water-course was full, and the usual- 
 ly small stream was flowing along a rapid, turbid, mountain 
 torrent. On looking toward the Pouce and adjacent mount- 
 ains I counted nine different cascades rushing from the hol- 
 lows among the ridges, and pouring in foam and spray down 
 the mountain sides, where at other times no stream could 
 be seen. M. Le Brun sent to his son to have the house in 
 which he lived carefully fastened, and every loose shutter 
 or board nailed up. Our residence, as well as most of the 
 houses, was furnished with strong, heavy, outside shutters, 
 called hurricane shutters. It had extra doors of the same 
 land, and these were all well secured. In every direction, 
 during the rest of the evening, nothing was heard but the 
 hammering of heavy iron bolts or bars and the nailing up 
 of doors and shutters. The yard or cross-piece attached to 
 the signal-post was lowered, and every precaution for secu- 
 rity adopted. 
 
 The wind, blowing from the northward and eastward, 
 continued to increase with violent and fearful gusts until 
 about two o'clock in the morning, when it changed and 
 blew from an opposite direction, but with less violence, un- 
 til daylight. The rain then ceased, and by eight or nine 
 o'clock we had the pleasure of beholding the sun break 
 through the clouds. Our yard was strewn with branches 
 of trees, and on the sides of the trees exposed to the wind 
 the long pendent boughs not absolutely broken off were
 
 CHAP. iv. EFFECTS OF THE GALE. 121 
 
 bent inward or upward by the force of the gale. In walk- 
 ing down to the port-office, although 1 did not see any 
 houses unroofed, I was struck with the devastation among 
 the trees. Almost every tree was bent toward the south- 
 west, and one banyan-tree in the Place d'Armes was torn 
 up by the roots and lay prostrate on the ground. There 
 was a heavy swell rolling into the harbor but no damage 
 among the ships, which, with their yards and masts on deck, 
 looked more like hulks than the tall vessels they had ap- 
 peared a few days before. Some of them had four anchors 
 out. Scarcely a boat was seen stirring in the bay during 
 the whole day, and the attendance of seamen on the usual 
 religious service at the port-office was exceedingly small. 
 
 In the afternoon, when I accompanied Mr. Kelsey and his 
 family to their residence, I was surprised as we passed through 
 the streets to see bars and boards, nailed across so many of 
 the doors and windows of the different buildings,, while others 
 were buttressed or propped up with strong pieces of timber. 
 It is said that if the wind during a hurricane loosens a door 
 or shutter, and finds entrance to a building, it tears off the 
 roof altogether, and scatters it in fragments around. On 
 visiting the ships afterward, I learned that the sailors on 
 board all the ships were at work until two, and on some 
 until four in the morning, making every thing secure, and 
 that the wind, though not in this instance amounting to a 
 hurricane, was at times so strong as to lay some of the ships 
 quite on their sides. 
 
 Notwithstanding the heavy rains, which were now fre- 
 quent, I was glad whenever I could to get away to the 
 country or mountain districts ; and soon after this time I 
 visited the Royal Gardens at Pamplemouses, seven or eight 
 miles in a northerly direction from Port Louis. I had more 
 than once visited them before, when I had been highly grat- 
 ified by the kind attentions of Mr. Duncan, the director, and 
 the members of his family, from whom I again received a
 
 122 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. iv. 
 
 frank and hearty welcome, with the offer of such accommo- 
 dation as they could furnish for my photographic operations. 
 So far as natural objects were concerned, no place in Mau- 
 ritius was to me so attractive as the Royal Gardens at Pam- 
 plemouses. They cover about fifty acres of most excellent 
 ground, and are well supplied with water. They appear to 
 have been originally laid out on a truly magnificent scale. 
 Long walks or avenues, with stone seats at intervals on both 
 sides, are bordered with the most rare and valuable trees of 
 both hemispheres, interspersed with an almost endless va- 
 riety of shrubs and flowers. Many improvements in the ar- 
 rangement of some portions of the grounds were in progress ; 
 and the whole seemed to be kept in as good order as the 
 number of laborers assigned to them were capable of main- 
 taining. Many of the useful trees and plants of Europe may 
 be found here ; and the number of choice roses recently in- 
 troduced by Mr. Duncan adds greatly to the charm and va- 
 riety of the attractions of the place. But the gardens are 
 especially rich in the productions of China, India, and the 
 Asiatic Archipelago. Some of the most choice specimens 
 are from Java and the adjacent islands, while there are oth- 
 ers from the Continent of Africa, as well as from Australia 
 and South America. There is one noble avenue of palmis- 
 tes, or palms ; it is, at least, four hundred yards in length, 
 and for extent and beauty is probably unequaled in any 
 other part of the globe. The trees are remarkably regular 
 on both sides, presenting few openings or chasms. The 
 tallest are forty or fifty feet high, and have probably been 
 growing where they now stand for nearly a century. The 
 young trees, more recently planted, nearer the centre of the 
 walk, cover the lower parts of the trunks of the palms, and 
 add greatly to the graceful beauty of the vista, along which 
 the lines of lofty waving plumes extend. The long lines 
 of tall and stately trunks, crowned with these plumes, and 
 stretching along like an almost interminable colonnade, pre-
 
 CHAP. iv. KOYAL GARDENS AT PAMPLEMOUSES. 123 
 
 sent one of the most singular and magnificent spectacles 
 which it is possible to imagine. 
 
 Almost every variety of the palm species, or form of 
 growth, is to be found in these gardens, and I was much 
 struck with the graceful slender forms of some beautiful 
 arecas. There were also fine specimens of the Latania ru- 
 bra, or fan-leaved palm, and the singular-leaved Caryota 
 urens, the rofia-tree, the traveler's-tree, and Dombeya cuspi- 
 data, the last three from Madagascar, as were also many of 
 the rare and curious plants in different parts of the grounds. 
 There were some large trees of Adansonia, and hibiscus 
 with flowers of almost every hue, growing luxuriantly, and 
 requiring scarcely any other care than to be kept within 
 bounds by the pruning-knife. 
 
 "With regard to the vegetation generally, not only in the 
 garden, but other parts of the island, I was often struck with 
 the almost incredible strength and rapidity of growth in the 
 shoots or branches of some kinds of trees, which frequently 
 attained ten or twelve feet in length, besides producing 
 smaller lateral branches, in a single season. 
 
 Australian trees were not so numerous, perhaps, as might 
 have been expected, though there was a tolerably well- 
 grown Norfolk Island pine growing in a conspicuous situ- 
 ation. Cinnamons of almost every kind, nutmegs, and oth- 
 er spices, with the camphor-tree, gum copal, India-rubber, 
 tangena, and other trees, were growing as freely as in their 
 native forests. There were also some specimens of teak 
 from India, and bread-fruit-trees from the South Sea Islands. 
 
 The genius of St. Pierre has rendered the whole of this 
 neighborhood a sort of classic region. The wreck of the 
 St. (reran, in 1745, took place on the adjacent coast. The 
 neighboring bay is called the Bay of Tombs, because it is 
 supposed that on its shores Paul and Virginia were buried. 
 At Pamplemouses, in a small garden, are two brick and 
 plaster pedestals supporting a couple of clay or coarse terra-
 
 124 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. iv. 
 
 cotta urns, placed one on each side of a small oblong pond, 
 and surrounded by light iron railings; these are 'Called the 
 tombs of Paul and Virginia. Each of these memorials, 
 standing by the side of the water, is shaded by a clump of 
 bamboos. When I went with Mr. Duncan to look at them, 
 they appeared rather in a ruinous state, evidently modern, 
 and entirely apocryphal. Nevertheless, sixpence is required 
 of every visitor who enters the garden to see them. 
 
 On the shores of the Bay of Tombs, and about ten miles 
 from Port Louis, there is a branch missionary station, to 
 which, during the month of January, I paid a visit in com- 
 pany with M. Le Bran, jun. The population of this place 
 is scattered, and consists chiefly of fishermen ; but they have 
 a neat native chapel, erected on a piece of ground near the 
 sea, which was given by the government. On the Sabbath 
 that I spent there it was well attended, though there was 
 illness in several of the families, and I was pleased with the 
 earnestness and simple piety of the people. There was an 
 efficient master in the adjacent government-school, which 
 appeared to be a great blessing to the neighborhood. The 
 missionary station was at that time without a teacher, but 
 an industrious and pious man was soon afterward appointed 
 by M. Le Brun and his people at Port Louis, and he has 
 since labored with encouraging success in this humble but 
 interesting sphere of usefulness. 
 
 Nearer to Port Louis, though in the same direction, viz., 
 at Eoche Bois, there is another small but very interesting 
 station, also connected with M. Le Brun's church in Port 
 Louis, where the people, generally Creole laborers and small 
 proprietors, were building themselves a neat stone chapel. 
 Among this little community, also, the school and the 
 preaching of M. Le Brun and his son appeared to be at- 
 tended with beneficial results. 
 
 I also visited another out-station, Nouvelle De'couverte, 
 and was much pleased with the character and devotedness
 
 CHAP. iv. EXCURSION TO MISSIONARY STATIONS. 125 
 
 of the teacher. I only regretted that there were so few in- 
 habitants to profit by his exertions. 
 
 On my way back from Nouvelle Decouverte, we visited 
 one of the most perfect miniature cascades I have met with. 
 The stream, three or four feet wide, shoots over a project- 
 ing ledge of rock, and falls, in one sheet, from a height of 
 about forty feet, into a deep clear basin, twenty or thirty feet 
 across. I descended to the edge of the basin, where I found 
 some beautiful ferns, and was surprised to see a number of 
 large gold-fish swimming in the water. I asked an intelli- 
 gent resident in the village who was with us, if they had 
 been purposely put there, but he said, " No, they have come 
 down with the stream." In an English domain such a spot 
 would have been almost invaluable. 
 
 But the most attractive natural objects I met with dur- 
 ing this excursion were the number of large and exceed- 
 ingly fine-grown tree-ferns, standing sometimes singly, but 
 more frequently in clusters 6f eight or ten, and growing to 
 the height of from seven to twenty feet. Nothing could 
 surpass the graceful beauty of the large, feathery, and bright 
 green fronds of this truly elegant class of plants, which were 
 here so abundant as to impart the charm of their own pecul- 
 iar character to the foliage of the forest in which they grew. 
 
 At the time of my visit to this station, having found my 
 health somewhat affected by the oppressive heat of the 
 weather, I gladly took up my abode for some time with 
 Madame Michaud, at La Jara, situated at the foot of the 
 Peter Botte Mountain, about six miles from Port Louis, ,nd 
 about as far from the missionary station. This kind lady 
 received me very cordially, as I had before paid her a visit 
 in company with Mr. Kelsey, who usually devoted the 
 days observed as holidays in the government offices to 
 pleasant excursions into the country with his family. I 
 did not, therefore, feel myself a stranger in the place. 
 
 The mountain scenery in this neighborhood was peculiar-
 
 120 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. iv. 
 
 ly rich and beautiful, and I found my health improved 
 during the short time I remained in the valley. On the 
 occasion of my visit with Mr. Kelsey I had accompanied 
 him and his youngest son to Cre" ve Cceur, a sort of pass on 
 the lowest part of the ridge separating the valley from the 
 plain leading to Moka ; I have rarely enjoyed a mountain 
 excursion more. Our way was a winding path made by 
 naked feet over rocks, and stones, and streams, passing lit- 
 tle low cane or bamboo- walled cottages, and through gar- 
 dens of lentils, pumpkins, cucumbers, sweet potatoes, bana- 
 nas, and maize. Here and there the men were working in 
 their gardens, and the women washing linen in the rippling 
 stream, or at the edge of a naturally-formed basin, into 
 which the water from the higher parts of the mountain 
 flowed in miniature falls. The people appeared to be chief- 
 ly Chinese, Africans or Malagasy, and Indians; the latter 
 most numerous. Their children numbers of whom were 
 seen about the huts were not overburdened with clothing, 
 but had splendid heads of jetty hair, and were decorated 
 with silver chains or rings in great abundance on their 
 necks, waists, arms, wrists, ankles, and toes. 
 
 The sheltered position of the upper part of the valley, 
 and the moisture produced by the vicinity of the mount- 
 ains, seemed to favor vegetation. The gardens among 
 which we passed were well kept, and every thing was 
 growing most luxuriantly. There was a vigor and fresh- 
 ness in all the plants which contrasted strongly with those 
 in the gardens on the plain, or near the sea. Among the 
 rare and choice specimens which I noticed in the course of 
 our walk, were a very fine sort of the Hibiscus mulabilis, 
 with single and double flowers, the latter of a light pink 
 when first opened, but gradually changing to a rich rose, 
 sometimes almost a violet color, and equal in size and form 
 to a good hollyhock. Besides these there was the agreea- 
 ble Clerodendronfragrans, forming sometimes almost a thick- 
 et, and in full flower.
 
 CHAP. iv. MISSIONARY EFFORTS AT PORT LOUIS. 127 
 
 During the second week in May, the friends attending at 
 the Protestant chapel in Port Louis held the annual meet- 
 ing of their missionary society, nominally auxiliary to the 
 London Society, but devoted exclusively to local objects. 
 I was glad to be present on this occasion, and to be made 
 acquainted more fully with the several objects to which 
 their attention was directed, as well as with their apparent 
 results. With much pleasure I listened to the statements 
 of the several committees connected with their out-stations, 
 with their distribution of religious tracts, their lending li- 
 brary, and other means of usefulness among their country- 
 men. The payment of the extraordinarily large sum which 
 the building of their substantial chapel had cost still press- 
 ed heavily upon them ; but there was a prospect of the 
 whole being paid at no distant period. They have since 
 added an important Sunday-school organization, which 
 promises much good. The island of Mauritius has present- 
 ed many difficulties to the Protestant missionary ; but the 
 Eev. J. Le Brun, who has been permitted to labor forty 
 years in the island, and is now assisted by his two sons, 
 must feel, in the days of his declining strength, that he has 
 not.labored in vain. A large and respectable congregation 
 of colored people attend his ministry, and an affectionate 
 flock in Port Louis recognize him as their pastor. Besides 
 the congregation or branch stations in the country, there 
 are few places on the island in which colored persons are 
 not met with who have derived benefit from his religious 
 instruction ; for he has been occupied much in itinerant, as 
 well as stated services, always preaching the Gospel in sim- 
 plicity and affection. It was truly gratifying to me to no- 
 tice the respect with which h was treated by all classes, as 
 well as the affection evinced toward him by the Creoles, 
 not only in Port Louis, but in other parts of the island. 
 But, above all, it was gratifying to feel that his unpretend- 
 ing yet unremitted labors of love among the colored people
 
 128 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CIIAP. iv. 
 
 fully justify the esteem and affection with which he is re- 
 garded. 
 
 Few places in Port Louis are more replete with interest 
 than the cemetery, which is situated outside the town on a 
 low flat piece of ground, at the southern side of the en- 
 trance to the harbor. A winding avenue of filao trees 
 leads along the sea-shore to the ground. The filao, or Ca- 
 suarina lateriflora, is a tall cypress-like tree, only less com- 
 pact. The wind passing over its leaves produces a pecul- 
 iarly mournful and monotonous sound, which seems to ren- 
 der this long avenue a fitting approach to a place of inter- 
 ment. There is also a number of the same and other kinds 
 of trees in the cemetery. The ground is extensive and well 
 kept, and the tombstones or monuments are numerous, and 
 some of them highly ornamented and costly. All earthly 
 distinctions seem here to have ceased. The mortal remains 
 of Roman Catholic and Protestant, churchman and dissent- 
 er, the French and the English, the civilian and the soldier, 
 the white man and the black man, repose in peace in their 
 one common resting-place. 
 
 Many of the newly-made graves were decorated with 
 flowers, and on others vases and different vessels are placed 
 and filled with flowers of the aramanthine species, which 
 are frequently renewed. Among the graves suggestive of 
 deep interest to me, I noticed that of Harriet Newell, wife 
 of one of the first missionaries from America to India, A 
 plain marble slab, sent from her native country, covers her 
 remains, which rest near the trunk of a large filao tree, Oa- 
 suarina equisetifoKa. A light iron railing surrounds the 
 stone. 
 
 As the season favorable for visiting Madagascar was now 
 approaching, I sent a letter on the 9th of May to the au- 
 thorities at Antananarivo, informing- them of my intention 
 to proceed to Tamatave in the course of a month, and ask- 
 ing permission to visit the capital.
 
 CHAP. iv. CHOLERA IN PORT LOUIS. 129 
 
 i 
 
 But some degree of apprehension began about this time 
 to be felt by the inhabitants, in consequence of two cases 
 of Asiatic cholera having occurred at Grande Riviere, two 
 miles from the town. Two vessels from India had recently 
 arrived with Indian laborers on board, among whom, it was 
 reported, this disease existed. 
 
 Prompt measures were taken by the government and the 
 municipality to arrest the progress of the disease and to mit- 
 igate its force. The prisoners in the jail, among whom the 
 first cases in the town had appeared, were removed on board 
 vessels in the outer harbor, hired for the occasion, and other 
 sanitary measures were adopted. Still the cases continued 
 to increase in number. The average deaths in Port Louis 
 had been seventy in the course of a month, but before the 
 end of another month they exceeded that number daily. 
 On the 28th of May there were eighty-six deaths, and one 
 hundred and three interments. The weather at this time 
 was extremely sultry, with a westerly wind. It was said 
 10,000 persons had fled from Port Louis during the previ- 
 ous two days. The weather subsequently became some- 
 what cooler, but still the ravages of the cholera increased. 
 
 The population of Port Louis and its suburbs is about 
 50,000, but during the first week in June the deaths fre- 
 quently exceeded one hundred per day. On the 5th of 
 June there were said to be one hundred and seventy deaths, 
 and on the 6th one hundred and thirty. The progress and 
 fatal termination of the disease in individual cases was 
 frightfully rapid. The wife of Mr. Kelsey's coachman, a 
 healthy young woman, was seized late in the evening, and 
 was a corpse before morning. In many other instances it 
 was still more rapid, and I heard that in some cases scarcely 
 two hours elapsed between seizure and death. Every kind 
 of vehicle that could be converted into a sort of hearse was 
 engaged by the municipality. Some of these were always 
 kept standing at the Town Hall, and others in appointed 
 
 I
 
 130 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP, iv 
 
 public places in the suburbs, for the removal of the bodies 
 of the dead. It was found necessary to appoint additional 
 officers and assistants at the office for registering deaths and 
 granting licenses to bury. The ordinary business of the 
 town was suspended except at the chemists and druggists' 
 shops, which were literally thronged from morning till night. 
 On some days there were no markets butchers, bakers, 
 fishermen, all being either ill or dead, or flying to the coun-. 
 try for fear. Day after day the public journals came out 
 printed only on one page, and that containing chiefly form- 
 ularies or directions for the treatment of the disease. The 
 whole town was a scene of desolation, nearly one half of 
 the houses and shops were closed, and in those that wer< 
 open only one attendant could be found. In the streets few 
 persons were met except those who hurried along with med* 
 icine. Almost the only carriages seen were the dead-carts. 
 In a short walk one morning I passed seven ; and, on in- 
 quiring of the driver of one, who was waiting outside the 
 cemetery as I left it, how many bodies he had in his vehi- 
 cle, he answered eight, and said it was his second journey. 
 
 M. Le Brun, with whom I resided, sometimes went to the 
 cemetery at four in the morning, and one morning had five 
 applications to attend interments before breakfast. It was 
 a matter of personal favor to obtain a coffin for a relative 
 or friend, or even to secure a grave. At the last funeral I 
 attended we had to wait on the ground until the grave was 
 dug, and there were numbers of coffins around which had 
 to remain until graves could be prepared. In some of the 
 districts it was even more distressing. At Pamplemouses, 
 as I was informed by one of the residents there, so numer- 
 ous were the deaths, and so few the laborers, that they dug 
 a large pit in which to bury the dead all together, and be- 
 fore the pit was finished no less than forty bodies were col- 
 lected at its sides for interment. It would be impossible to 
 describe the state of feeling which pervaded all classes.
 
 CHAP. iv. FEAEFUL RAVAGES OF CHOLERA. 131 
 
 Families that separated in the morning scarcely expected 
 to gather together in the evening; and when retiring to 
 their respective beds at night they parted from each other 
 under a feeling of uncertainty as to whether they should all 
 meet in the morning. 
 
 The poor heathen Indians beat their tomtoms, and walk- 
 ed in processions' with incense and garlands to propitiate 
 their idols, and avert the terrors of death. The Christians, 
 besides calling upon God in their homes, appointed a public 
 fast for humiliation and solemn prayer to the Almighty that 
 the plague might be stayed. 
 
 With many, antidotes of eagerly -hoped-for efficacy were 
 carried about the person. Fires were kindled, and gums or 
 resins burned in the yards or at the corners of the streets. 
 Additional burial-places were appointed in the neighborhood 
 of Port Louis, and every means adopted, by spreading lime 
 over the graves, and by other means, to prevent the increase 
 of the pestilence ; and still the fearful calamity continued, 
 less violent, indeed, in the town, but more fatal in the 
 country. 
 
 By the medical men, whose labors were unremitted, the 
 disease appeared to be generally regarded as infectious, but 
 not contagious ; yet they failed to discover its immediate 
 cause, and had no specific remedy. Emetics and castor-oil 
 were most successful in some places ; essence of camphor, 
 or dilute sulphuric acid, in others ; and cold-water applica- 
 tions, practiced by a medical gentleman recently from India, 
 promised at one time to prove effectual in arresting the dis- 
 ease ; but this also subsequently failed. 
 
 Opinions formed d priori as to the classes most likely to 
 be affected by such a visitation were not confirmed. The 
 Indians, whose abodes are small, ill- ventilated, crowded, and 
 not remarkable for cleanliness, and whose food is perhaps 
 less nutritive than that of most others, suffered but little. 
 The Chinese, of whom there are great numbers, and whose
 
 132 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR CHAP. iv. 
 
 mode of life is in some respects similar, were scarcely affect- 
 ed, and I did not hear of more than one death among them. 
 The classes who were the greatest sufferers were the more 
 respectable inhabitants, English, and French, and the Cre- 
 oles. The greatest mortality was among the latter, and 
 quite as much in the country as the town. 
 
 Throughout this anxious period my own health had been 
 mercifully preserved; and as the time which I had fixed 
 for proceeding to Madagascar had arrived, and as Mr. Wiehe' 
 had kindly given me a passage on board one of his vessels,. 
 I left my bereaved and anxious friends, and embarked on 
 board the Nimble on the 8th of June. The vessel had been 
 detained a day longer than was fixed for want of laborers 
 to take off water, and otherwise to fit the vessel for sea. The 
 last person I took leave of was my kind friend Mr. Kelsey, 
 to whom I committed the care of my letters, with many 
 other of those serious charges which naturally occur to the 
 mind on undertaking a doubtful or dangerous journey, and 
 which I felt it was not possible to commit to safer hands. 
 In less than half an hour after leaving his office our vessel 
 was under way. One of our sailors was attacked with chol- 
 era on the voyage, but recovered before we reached the port 
 of Tamatave.
 
 SECOND VOYAGE TO MADAGASCAR. 133 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 Second Voyage to Madagascar. Quarantine on account of the Cholera at 
 Mauritius. Residence on Shore. Visit to a sick Chief. His Secretary. 
 Presents from the People. Correspondence with the Government at 
 the Capital. Hospitality of M. Provint. Evening Walks. Drawers of 
 Water. Cattle-market.-Mode of embarking and landing Cattle. Ar- 
 ticles sold in the daily Market. House of the Son of the Chief Judge. 
 The national Festival of the New Year. Presents. Visitors from the 
 Capital. Annual Festival Dinner by the Governor. Dresses of the 
 Company. Eating of the Jaka preserved since the last annual Festival. 
 Accounts of the destructive Progress of the Cholera at Mauritius. 
 Death of Mr. Kelsey. Visit to the Capital prohibited on account of the 
 Cholera at Mauritius. Astonishment of the Natives on witnessing the 
 Effects of Photography. Remarkable Countenances of many of the Peo- 
 ple. Application for Medicine. Toothaches. Varieties of native 
 Medicine. Poisonous Fish. Serpents. Habits of the Aye- Aye. 
 
 THE weather was fine, the wind fair for our voyage, and 
 the sea by no means rough; yet again I suffered much 
 from sea-sickness ; happily the voyage was short, and on 
 the evening of the third day we were within ten miles of 
 our port, and, as there were indications of a change of 
 wind, the captain, who was himself an invalid, anchored 
 for the night in twenty fathoms of water. The next morn- 
 ing the wind was contrary, and it was past noon on the 
 12th of June before we entered the bay. During the next 
 day the custom-house officers came on board to inquire 
 about the cholera at Mauritius, and to examine the health 
 of the crew. They informed the captain that until farther 
 orders there could be no communication with the shore, a 
 decision which, however inconvenient to ourselves, was 
 highly commendable so far as the safety of the people was 
 concerned.
 
 134 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. v. 
 
 After being eight days in quarantine we went on shore, 
 and as soon as I had received permission to land my things 
 they were taken to the custom-house and afterward depos- 
 ited in a large new house belonging to M. Provint, which 
 stood in a healthy part of the settlement, and was kindly 
 granted by the owner for my use. The officers at the cus- 
 tom-house examined my things very carefully, and the 
 number of bottles containing photographic chemicals, as 
 well as a small case of medicine included in my luggage, 
 induced them to regard me as a doctor, and one of them 
 asked if I had any thing to cure a headache. 
 
 On the following day I took possession of my house in 
 Tamatave, and while engaged in unpacking and arranging 
 my luggage, a messenger came from a neighboring chief to 
 ask for some medicine. I went forthwith to see him, and 
 then sent him a small quantity of such medicine as appear- 
 ed to me most suitable. I was much struck with the novel 
 aspect of social life which my visit to the sick chief afford- 
 ed. I found him not in the large substantial house, with 
 doors and windows, matted walls, and boarded floor, which 
 he usually occupied, but in a low hut in the same inclosure. 
 This I entered by a door- way near the farthest end. After 
 passing through the outer door- way I entered a room about 
 twenty feet long and twelve feet wide, the walls being about 
 five feet high, and closed all round without window or door. 
 About the centre of this room was a sort of raised hearth 
 edged round with stones, on which a wood fire was burning. 
 The room was dimly lighted by a lamp of native structure 
 fixed in the sand of the hearth. The lamp itself was a cu- 
 riosity, consisting of an iron rod two or three feet long, 
 sharpened to a point at one end, and having a cup with a 
 hook above it at the other. The sharp end of the rod was 
 fixed in the sand. The cup contained melted fat. In this 
 was a lighted wick of twisted cotton, and above the flame 
 of the wick a piece of bullock's fat was fixed on the hook,
 
 CHAP. v. VISIT TO A SICK CHIEF. 135 
 
 which, as it melted in the flame, replenished the cup be- 
 low. 
 
 I found the chief lying on a number of mats spread by 
 the side of the fire-place. His wife was sitting near the 
 door- way working at a fine kind of mat. One slave was in 
 the outer room driving away the poultry and pigs as they 
 approached, and another little slave-girl squatting on the 
 ground attended to the fire. The chief said he had removed 
 to this low, close hut for the sake of the warmth : the ther- 
 mometer at that time was generally between 60 and 70 in- 
 doors. He was an officer of the government, and while I 
 was talking with him one of his assistants or aids-de-camp 
 entered with a couple of letters, which, at the chief's re- 
 quest, he read, and which the chief told him he must an- 
 swer. The young man then went to a box at the side of 
 the room, brought paper, pen, and ink, and, seating himself 
 cross-legged on the ground near the lamp, laid a quire of 
 paper on his knee, and having folded a sheet, the chief 
 raised himself upon his mat and dictated while his secretary 
 wrote a reply. When the letter was finished the secretary 
 read it aloud, and, the chief having approved, the writer 
 brushed the sand adhering to his naked foot with the feath- 
 ery end of his long pen upon the freshly- written sheet to 
 prevent its blotting, then folded his letter and departed to 
 dispatch it to its destination. There was something singu- 
 larly novel and suggestive as to the processes by which the 
 civilization of nations is promoted in the spectacle I had wit- 
 nessed. Little more than thirty years before the language 
 of Madagascar was an unwritten language ; a native who 
 had been educated at Mauritius was the only writer in the 
 country, and he wrote in a foreign tongue ; but now, with- 
 out any of the appliances which are usually connected with 
 a secretary's desk or office,, a quiet, unpretending young 
 man, seated on a mat on the floor in a low, dark cottage 
 three hundred miles from the capital of the country, and
 
 136 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. v. 
 
 with his paper on his knee, receives and writes with accu- 
 racy and ease the orders or instructions of his superior ; and 
 while the latter reclines in his sickness on his mats spread 
 on the floor in his leaf-thatched hut, as his fathers had done 
 for generations before, he has only to utter his wishes or his 
 orders, and these are conveyed to those whom they concern 
 with as much authenticity and correctness as the most 
 formal dispatch from an office of the most civilized nation. 
 And when I reflected that to such an extent had the native 
 government availed itself of the advantages of writing, as 
 that, in the year 1836, when the late missionaries left the 
 capital, there were four thousand officers employed, who 
 transacted the business of their respective departments by 
 writing, and that such is the benefit or pleasure which the 
 people find in thus communicating with each other that 
 scarcely a traveler ever journeys from one place to another 
 without being a letter-carrier, I was strongly impressed with 
 the fact that, besides the benefits of their directly religious 
 teaching, missionaries were rendering most important aid 
 toward the enlightenment and civilization of mankind. 
 
 After a subsequent visit, I sent to the chief, who remain- 
 ed an invalid for some time, a little tea and sugar and a 
 few biscuits, for which he expressed himself thankful, ob- 
 serving that he had but little appetite and did not relish his 
 food, though he had some time before bought a first-rate 
 cook, for whom he had given seventy dollars, about 13 : 
 but that she was ill at that time, and he was consequently 
 deprived of her services. 
 
 During the day on which I was unpacking my luggage, 
 several young men, traders from the capital, came to my 
 house to ask what new articles of trade I had brought, and 
 particularly if I had any violins or musical instruments to 
 sell. Soon afterward a man arrived with a turkey and a 
 duck, as a present from a chief living close by, and I after- 
 ward received a number of similar presents from persons
 
 CHAP. v. LETTER FROM THE GOVERNMENT. 137 
 
 residing in the neighborhood, generally accompanied with 
 friendly salutations and expressions of welcome. 
 
 As I had not yet received any answer to the letter sent 
 from Mauritius to the secretary of the government, I wrote 
 again, informing the government of my having arrived on 
 the coast, and asking permission to proceed to the capital. 
 A day or two afterward the answer arrived, and was to the 
 effect that, as Mr. Cameron and I had applied together last 
 year, we must apply together now. I then wrote again, 
 stating that, Mr. Cameron having gone to the Cape, I could 
 not confer with him ; that if the queen wished him to come, 
 I would write and inform him of her majesty's wishes ; but 
 that as I was there I again solicited permission to proceed, 
 in the mean time, to the capital. 
 
 M. Provint, the friend who allowed me to occupy his 
 house, also kindly promised to send me a cook to prepare 
 such meals as I might take at home, and, soon after this 
 proposal had been made, a short, thick-set, woolly -headed 
 youth arrived, clothed in a sort of frock made of coarse rofia 
 cloth. He entered the room where I was sitting, telling me 
 he had been sent to be my cook, and exhibiting a large 
 spoon and a fork which he held in his hand, the emblems, I 
 supposed, of his profession, or the implements of his craft. 
 He was generally sent to market to buy what was wanted, 
 and proved tolerably well acquainted with the modes of 
 dressing the different kinds of food to be obtained in the 
 place. I took my morning meal every day in the house in 
 which I resided, and this generally consisted of rice with 
 hashed or stewed beef, with the addition of eggs and tea, for 
 which I obtained fresh milk every morning, part of which 
 was always reserved for tea in the evening. 
 
 These were the only meals I took at home, as the same 
 kind friend who had sent me the cook invited me to his ta- 
 ble, where I usually shared his hospitality at dinner. My 
 walks home from the house of my friend on the dark even-
 
 138 VISITS TO MAD AGASCAK. CHAP. r. 
 
 ings were sometimes enlivened bj two or three slave-boys 
 sent with me with a lantern, who occasionally amused them- 
 selves and me by marching on before me to the rude music 
 of a jew's-harp and a little drum, both apparently of native 
 manufacture. I was, however, more frequently gratified in 
 beholding the large number of fire-flies flitting about in 
 great numbers, with their singularly -brilliant greenish sort 
 of light, at times close to my face, and then among the ad- 
 jacent paling or vegetation. 
 
 My house was so situated in the midst of the settlement 
 as to afford frequent opportunities for observing some of the 
 habits and usages of the people around me. Their houses, 
 with several others, stood in a large inclosure, part of which 
 was cultivated as a garden. In the front was a well, from 
 which many of the houses in the neighborhood were sup- 
 plied with water. The well was about twenty feet deep, 
 sunk through the sand, which was kept up by boards at the 
 sides. The water was drawn up in a large bullock's horn 
 fastened to the end of a string made of bark, and let down 
 by the hand to the water. Numbers of slave-girls came 
 every morning with long bamboo-canes for water. These 
 canes were six or eight feet long, and, the partitions at the 
 joints inside being broken, formed cylinders three or four 
 inches wide, in which the water was conveyed from the 
 well to the adjacent houses. This water, when first drawn, 
 was not clear, but when filtered or allowed to stand was 
 tolerably good. I succeeded in obtaining a photograph of 
 the end of my house and the yard adjacent, as well as por- 
 traits of several of the slaves who came dairy to the well 
 for water. In the same inclosure other slaves might often 
 be seen pounding rice in a large wooden vessel to separate 
 the husk from the grain. 
 
 Many of the natives came daily to my house, and among 
 them some young chiefs holding subordinate offices in the 
 place, who asked me to teach them English, proposing to
 
 CHAP. v. CATTLE-MAKKET. 141 
 
 / 
 
 instruct me in Malagasy in return, an agreement into which 
 I very readily entered. Like many other of the native 
 youths, they were fond of writing ; and, considering that 
 they were almost entirely self-taught, they wrote remarka- 
 bly well. They were types of a class very numerous in 
 the island at the present time, and very important youths 
 eager after instruction, thirsting for information, and glad 
 to avail themselves of every means within reach to increase 
 their knowledge. I could not but deeply regret that no 
 means existed for opening to them access to the fountains of 
 knowledge and the sources of improvement which schools 
 and books would supply. 
 
 Soon after my arrival I paid one or two visits to the cat- 
 tle-market, which is on the outside of the village. The 
 stock was not numerous, and the kinds such as with us 
 would be considered neither desirable nor profitable, being 
 large-boned, large-headed, and not very well covered with 
 flesh. In the market there were neither sheep nor goats, 
 though both may be seen in the interior of the country. 
 The cattle are all of the buffalo species, having the hump 
 between the shoulders ; and so highly is this part of the 
 animal esteemed, and so averse are the people to all inno- 
 vation, that on one occasion, when some animals of a supe- 
 rior breed were introduced from the Cape, the inhabitants 
 of Tamatave, where they were landed, would not allow them 
 to be turned loose, lest their own cattle should be deteriora- 
 ted by breeding with them. 
 
 In the market these animals stood generally in small 
 groups of three or four together, occasionally a cow and her 
 calf, or even a single cow. The traffic among the natives 
 themselves did not appear to be very brisk. The cattle 
 supplied to the traders for exportation are sold at the same 
 place, or at the other end of the village nearer the shipping. 
 The price is fixed by the government at fifteen dollars a 
 head, besides other charges. A captain of a vessel states
 
 142 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. v. 
 
 how many lie requires, one hundred or one hundred and 
 fifty, more or less, and having approved of a lot, ten or 
 twenty more than he requires are brought together, from 
 the whole of which he drives out the worst, and having re- 
 duced the herd to the required number, these are driven 
 into a sort of yard or fold of strong posts and rails, situated 
 near the sea, where the cattle remain ready for embarka- 
 tion. The getting them on board is rather a noisy and 
 bustling affair, and when the weather is at all rough it is 
 impracticable without loss. If the sea is tolerably calm, 
 the vessels approach as near the shore as possible, perhaps 
 within two hundred yards, and a strong rope is passed from 
 the ship to the shore. Two large canoes are then fastened 
 together by having strong bars or poles tied across them, 
 and projecting over the sides. The cattle, which have per- 
 haps never been tied up before, are caught in the fold by 
 having a rope passed round their horns, by which they are 
 tied one by one to a strong post in the fold. To the rope 
 round each animal's head two other ropes are fastened, viz., 
 one on each side, and extending in opposite directions along 
 the sea-beach. Each of these ropes is held by eight or ten 
 men standing on the sand, or in the water. "When all is 
 ready the animal is driven out of the fold, and generally 
 runs at the men on one side, but is held back by those on 
 the other side, and both parties of men keep advancing to- 
 ward deep water, still pulling with the ropes, until the bul- 
 lock is beyond his depth. He is then drawn as he swims 
 to the side of the canoe, where the long ropes are taken off, 
 and he is fastened by the horns to the cross-bars projecting 
 over the sides of the canoe. When about ten oxen are 
 thus fastened, the canoes are drawn by means of a rope pre- 
 viously fixed to the ship, the bullocks being swung on both 
 sides ; a sort of canvas sling is then passed under the body 
 of each animal, and they are hoisted into the ship. In this 
 manner a hundred and fifty bullocks will sometimes be em-
 
 GROVE OF PANDANUB-TREEB AND CATTLE-PEN NEAB TAMATAVE,
 
 CHAP. v. MODE OF EMBAEKING CATTLE. 145 
 
 barked in one day. Hay and water are provided for them 
 during the passage, and if the sea is tolerably smooth, in a 
 day or two they begin to eat. They are under the charge 
 of native herdsmen called marmites ; and unless the pas- 
 sage is very long, extending to twenty days or more, or the 
 weather very tempestuous, few of them die. The fact of 
 the prevailing winds being contrary during the greater part 
 of the trading season seems to indicate the great advantage 
 that would be secured in the employment of steam in the 
 exportation of cattle from Madagascar. 
 
 On reaching Mauritius the ships with cattle approach as 
 near as possible to the shore. The bullocks are then hoisted 
 up by slings swung over the ship's side, and allowed to fall 
 into the water, where the rope is taken from their heads, 
 and they are left to swim between two lines of spars to the 
 shore, where some tame cattle and hay are placed to attract 
 them to the landing-place.' By this process many cargoes, 
 ranging from ninety to a hundred and fifty bullocks each, 
 are brought to Mauritius every year, that island, as well as 
 Bourbon, being entirely dependent upon Madagascar for 
 cattle for draught as well as for the market. 
 
 Soon after I became a housekeeper in Madagascar, I vis- 
 ited the general market held daily at Tamatave. The place 
 where it is kept is about fifty yards square, and extremely 
 dirty, in consequence of the refuse of vegetables and meat 
 lying about. The market opens early in the morning. 
 Among the fruits were citrons, lemons, and oranges, pine- 
 apples, plantains, and pistache-nuts. Among the roots ma- 
 nioc was most abundant. Eice was very plentiful and of 
 varied quality. There were also maize, millet, and other 
 grains. The chief article of manufacture was foreign cot- 
 ton cloth, white and printed. The native manufactures 
 comprised knives, hatchets, axes, hoes, spades, files, nails, 
 scales and weights, native cloth, lambas, mats, baskets, and 
 hats of plaited straw, etc. Most of the articles were spread 
 
 K
 
 146 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. v. 
 
 upon the ground, some on a little sort of raised platform of 
 earth or sand, the sides of which were edged in a remarka- 
 ble manner with the shoulder-bones of oxen stuck in the 
 ground, the broad part upward. The venders sometimes 
 sat in the centre of the platform and sometimes by the side. 
 The butchers were busy cutting up the meat, which was 
 spread upon the ground on broad plantain or other leaves. 
 It was sold in pieces, not by weight. 
 
 Mixed up with these articles were all kinds of poultry, 
 including guinea-fowls, which are native, and turkeys, which 
 have been introduced. In one place there were different 
 kinds of black or brown parrots ; and in another a man was 
 very anxious to persuade me to buy three young tenrecs, 
 apparently the spiny tenrec, which he had in a cage. A 
 large black and white lemur, the ruffed lemur, a splendid 
 animal, quite tame, was very attractively exhibited. I ob- 
 served various kinds of salt, also tobacco in leaf and manu- 
 factured, as well as snuff in abundance ; snuff-boxes or to- 
 bacco-boxes made of small pieces of polished cane, and a 
 sort of perfume resembling ointment. 1 1 went into several 
 of the houses, where numbers of lambas, or native scarfs, of 
 varied pattern and quality were for sale. The patterns of 
 some of the native fabrics- were both tasteful and attractive. 
 
 The money changers were busy cutting up dollars, and 
 half and quarter dollars, and smaller pieces, cut silver, val- 
 ued by weight, being the universal currency. They cut 
 the dollar up by laying it on a block, placing a large knife 
 upon it, and striking the knife with a hammer. This proc- 
 ess was carried on at the threshold of the doors in the mar- 
 ket. 
 
 The greatest drawback to the interest which the novel 
 spectacle of a market in Madagascar presented, was the 
 great number of huts in which a barrel of arrak, a fiery 
 kind of rum made in the island, was placed for sale. There 
 was generally a tap in the end of the barrel, and one or
 
 CHAP. v. THE FESTIVAL OF THE NEW YEAR. 147 
 
 two men were constantly inviting customers. JSTo law of 
 Radama's was more salutary than that which prohibited 
 the making or selling of ardent spirits. Many of the peo- 
 ple whom I saw appeared to be under the influence of this 
 liquor. 
 
 On my way home I called on Filiberg, the son of the late 
 chief judge of the district. The house in which he lives is 
 quite a mansion. It seems as if it might belong to the na- 
 tive aristocracy, and speaks well for the rank maintained 
 by the former chiefs of the place. This house, which has 
 two stories and a number of rooms tolerably well furnish- 
 ed, stands in a compound or inclosure fifty or a hundred 
 yards square, formed with posts from six to nine inches in 
 diameter, and about fifteen feet high, planted in the ground 
 close together. A lodge stands at the gate of the inclosure, 
 and a broad path, bordered with tall mango-trees, leads to 
 the house. Around the house, and within the inclosure, 
 are a number of small huts or houses well and neatly built, 
 which are the dwellings of the chief's attendants and serv- 
 ants, forming a sort of embryo village round his mansion. 
 The servant or porter whom we saw at the lodge, a smart 
 young man with an enormous pair of gold earrings, having 
 informed the chief that I was waiting, came back to lead us 
 to the house. On entering I was cordially welcomed by 
 the young chief and his half-brother, who were surrounded 
 by their attendants ; while on the opposite side of the large 
 room about twenty females were sitting on mats spread 
 upon the boarded floor, as if expecting company. After a 
 short conversation respecting England and Mauritius, I 
 took my leave, as other guests had arrived. 
 
 The 24th of June was the last day of the Malagasy year, 
 and on that day the observances connected with the great 
 annual festival in commemoration of the New Year com- 
 menced, and all kinds of work were interdicted for three 
 days. In the afternoon, as I was walking on the plain to
 
 148 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. v. 
 
 the northward of the village, I saw a number of chiefs 
 passing along, each reclining in an open palanquin borne 
 on men's shoulders, and surrounded by a large retinue of 
 attendants. One or two men with assagais, or spears, in 
 their hands ran along in front shouting out the name of 
 the chief; then followed the bearers of the palanquin with 
 a number of persons on each side, many of them carrying 
 spears, sticks, or fans, while relays of bearers and others fol- 
 lowed. All moved along at a quick, trotting sort of pace, 
 causing a good deal of dust as well as noise on the road. I 
 recognized among them the son of the chief judge, and the 
 Chief of Hivondro. On inquiring, I found they were going 
 to the residence of the governor, to present their homage 
 to the sovereign's representative, according to the custom 
 of the country at this season. 
 
 In different parts of the village I passed great numbers 
 of the people in holiday costume. The hair of the women, 
 which is jet black and glossy, was in some cases elaborately 
 dressed, and arranged in a number of small braids and knots, 
 giving a stiff and formal aspect to the contour of the head 
 and fa'ce. The greater portion of the people were clothed 
 more or less in articles of European manufacture, the men 
 in white lambas, or large flowing scarfs, the women in col- 
 ored cotton dresses. They seemed to be generally in family 
 groups ; and I found on inquiry tjiat the day was devoted 
 to the interchange of visits among relatives and friends. 
 
 Later in the evening, as I returned home, I saw numbers 
 of persons bathing or washing themselves in different parts 
 of the village. Parents especially were bathing their chil- 
 dren outside their houses, or near the doors. I had seen 
 through the day slaves bringing in fire-wood ; and toward 
 evening small fires were kindled in every direction outside 
 of the houses. Both the bathing and the lighting of fires 
 are necessary parts of the usages connected with this great 
 annual festival. These ceremonies are commenced bv the
 
 CHAP. v. VISITORS FROM THE CAPITAL. 149 
 
 sovereign at the capital, and followed by the people through- 
 out the country. 
 
 Early the next morning a messenger, followed by a slave, 
 entered my house and presented me with a large shoulder 
 of beef, as a present from the son-in-law of my host. Soon 
 after another messenger entered, followed by two slaves, 
 one of them bearing the hinder leg of a bullock, with the 
 skin and hair on, as a New Year's present. About a quar- 
 ter of an hour after this, an aid-de-camp of the captain of 
 the port arrived, followed by a slave bearing a choice piece 
 of beef as a present from his master, and shortly afterward 
 the same young man came again, followed by his servant 
 with an excellent piece from himself. The supply was far 
 beyond my wants, but it was intended by the donors as an 
 expression of respect, and to my servant, who found a great 
 number of relations here, and the slaves living on the prem- 
 ises, with others in the immediate neighborhood, it was, I 
 have no doubt, very .acceptable. 
 
 My house was thronged with visitors during the whole of 
 the day, and as there was one among them who could speak 
 a little English, having formerly been a pupil for a consid- 
 erable time in one of the best of the schools at the capital, I 
 not only received much interesting intelligence, but was able 
 to communicate important information to the friends who 
 came, and remained, some of them, until a very late hour. 
 Many of these were exceedingly delighted and deeply af- 
 fected in looking over some of the illustrated English books 
 which I had with me, and often expressed their earnest 
 wishes to be able to read English. I encouraged them to 
 try, but they shook their heads, and seemed to think it hope- 
 less, especially as they had no books. 
 
 The following day a chief residing in the neighborhood 
 came to me, bringing with him his son, a fine intelligent 
 youth about sixteen years of age, who, he said, knew a little 
 English, and wished to learn more. I was glad to see him
 
 150 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. v. 
 
 and another young chief who accompanied him, and had 
 recently arrived from the capital. He was aid-de-camp to 
 the prince royal, and seemed unusually intelligent. I lent 
 the youth an English and Malagasy book, which he asked 
 permission to copy out as a means of learning, and I spent 
 some tune in teaching him the pronunciation of English 
 words. His companion was deeply interested in some books 
 lying on my table, and with many others remained the great- 
 er part of the day at my house. Visits such as these were 
 opportunities for doing good of which I very gladly availed 
 myself, and they occurred often. 
 
 A tall noble-looking chief also arrived, accompanied by 
 a number of strangers who had recently come from the cap- 
 ital and had brought letters from residents there conveying 
 much interesting intelligence. "When my visitors wrote 
 down on paper what they had to say, I could generally, by 
 reference to the dictionary for a word or two, understand 
 what it meant. I then wrote my reply, and, when at a loss, 
 my servant, a Malagasy from Mauritius, acted as interpret- 
 er. Four or five of my visitors, when they left me, wrote on 
 a sheet of paper, which at the time was lying on my desk, 
 their cordial and affectionate salutations. This was the com- 
 mencement of many agreeable and instructive interviews 
 with my tall friend and his companions, who had but re- 
 cently arrived at Tamatave, where they remained till I had 
 left the island. 
 
 About a week after the commencement of the observ- 
 ances connected with the New Year I received an invita- 
 tion from the governor to a public dinner, which was to be 
 given by order of the queen to the residents and others on 
 the occasion of the national festival. The dinner was given 
 at the house of the son of the chief judge, as being central 
 and convenient. At the tune appointed, the chief judge and 
 other officers of the government, borne in palanquins and 
 attended by a guard of honor and a native band, arrived ,t
 
 DlJKA, A B3T8IMA8AP.AKA 1IUVA FAKMEB. 
 
 BEARER. 
 
 1IOVA OFFICER IN SILK HOVA OFFICER IN COTTON 
 
 LAMBA. LAMBA. TALL FBIF.ND MENTIONKD 
 
 P. 150.
 
 CHAP. v. ANNUAL FESTIVAL DINNER. 153 
 
 the place of meeting. At half-past five the residents were 
 summoned to the banquet. Two lines of soldiers, wearing 
 a folded white cloth round the loins and white belts across 
 their naked shoulders, and armed with a musket or spear, 
 lined the avenue of trees leading to the house. As we en- 
 tered the court-yard, the band, which consisted chiefly of 
 drums and clarionets, began to play ; and when we reached 
 the door the second officer in command, the governor's rep- 
 resentative on this occasion, and designated a marshal, came 
 out to meet us accompanied by the other officers, by all of 
 whom we were cordially welcomed. 
 
 "While we were waiting I found sufficient to interest me 
 in observing the singular variety among the uniforms of the 
 officers. They seemed as if they might have belonged to 
 the different services of various nations. I did not, howev- 
 er, notice any naval uniform ; the greater part were English 
 or scarlet. On the buttons of one of the coats I observed 
 the American eagle and shield. Uniforms appeared to be 
 held in high estimation, for, on another occasion, I was in- 
 formed that an officer of the place had given a hundred oxen 
 for his suit. One of the officers present wore a rich green 
 velvet coat thickly ornamented with gold lace, and a large 
 aiguillette of gold cord on the shoulders. All the chief 
 officers had gold epaulets and cocked hats with feathers. 
 
 On proceeding to the dinner-table the places of the guests 
 were indicated by their names being written on pieces of 
 paper and placed on the table-napkins ; and I soon found 
 myself seated between the lady of the house, the wife of the 
 judge's son, and the marshal. Next to him was an officer 
 who spoke English, though but imperfectly. The officer in 
 the green uniform sat opposite to me, and, as he spoke 
 French tolerably well, I did not find myself so much at a 
 loss as I had anticipated. 
 
 The dinner was well served and abundant, comprising 
 soup, turkey, roast pig, fowls, ducks, etc., with some good
 
 154 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. v. 
 
 pastry, all set out and served in respectable French or En- 
 glish dishes, plates, etc. But the chief novelty was a dish 
 of jaka, which occupied the middle of the table. Jaka is 
 beef which has been preserved from the previous year's 
 festival, and to exchange visits and eat each other's jaka is 
 considered by the people as the greatest mark of amity in 
 their power to give. The jaka, or preserved beef, was cut 
 into small shreds, and seemed to have been fried crisp and 
 brown. . 
 
 When all were seated, the marshal rose and made a 
 speech in praise of the sovereign, and stating that it was 
 the wish of the queen that the foreigners should partake 
 with her officers in the hospitalities of the season ; that the 
 governor regretted that illness prevented his being present, 
 but that he (the speaker) was, on the governor's behalf, hap- 
 py to welcome the company as guests. The dish of jaka 
 was then handed round, each person taking a small piece in 
 his fingers, and eating it silently and slowly. It seemed to 
 me as if some of the native religious feelings were associat- 
 ed with this part of the feast. I took a small piece, but did 
 not perceive in it any peculiar flavor, certainly nothing to 
 indicate that it had been kept twelve months without salt. 
 
 The company amounted to more than twenty, and the 
 greatest propriety, with much cheerful hilarity, prevailed. 
 Six female slaves stood behind the two ladies who sat at 
 the head of the table, and one or two aids-de-camp behind 
 the chairs of each of the officers. Indeed, there seemed to 
 be rather too many attendants, but they managed remark- 
 ably well. When the dinner was nearly over, two slave 
 women entered, and, sitting down on the ground by the 
 side of their mistress, prepared, under her direction, coffee 
 for the company, which was served soon after dinner. 
 
 After coffee the company adjourned to a large adjoining 
 room, the walls of which were covered with French paper, 
 representing scenes in the different campaigns of Napoleon.
 
 CHAP. r. CHOLERA AT MAURITIUS. 155 
 
 Here I had the opportunity of conversing with several of 
 the officers who spoke English or French, and whom I had 
 previously seen at my house. Music, consisting of a clari- 
 onet and drum, with other amusements, were now intro- 
 duced, and dancing followed. At an early hour the mar- 
 shal made another speech in the name of the queen, after 
 which her majesty's health was drunk in a small glass of 
 liquor; when the marshal rose to retire, and was followed 
 by the rest of the company. In the front court . he gave 
 me a cordial farewell salutation, and, entering his palan- 
 quin, was borne away, followed by the other officers. I 
 reached home about nine o'clock, and, after a cup of tea, 
 retired to rest, much interested in the novel scene I had 
 witnessed. 
 
 On the succeeding day I received a packet of newspa- 
 pers and letters from Mauritius, conveying the mournful 
 intelligence of the continued ravages of the cholera there. 
 In these accounts it was estimated that upward of 3000 per- 
 sons had been carried off in Port Louis alone, while the dis- 
 ease was still -extending with fearful severity in some of 
 the provinces. My grief was extreme on learning that Mrs. 
 Kelsey, to whom I had written a letter of condolence by 
 the last ship, had followed her honored husband to the 
 grave within a few days of his interment and that of her 
 two beloved children. Their family, from the time of my 
 arrival, had appeared one of the healthiest and happiest in 
 the place. They had been among my most attached friends 
 there. To Mr. Kelsey I had confided the transmission of 
 my letters to and from England, with all the little matters 
 connected with my own comfort and safety ; and I felt 
 deeply bound to him by ties stronger than these of mere 
 acquaintanceship. No symptom of indisposition was ob- 
 servable when I left, and now I learned that, within a fort- 
 night after my departure, father, mother, and two dear chil- 
 dren were numbered with the dead. Mr. Banks, the pious
 
 156 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. v. 
 
 and devoted military chaplain, with many others whom I 
 knew, had been swept away by the fearful visitation, and 
 mourning and desolation seemed to fill' the land. 
 
 The next morning officers from the governor came to say 
 that accounts of the fearful ravages of the cholera at Mau- 
 ritius, at the time when I left, had been sent from Tama- 
 tave to the capital. That, on that account, I could not go 
 up to Antananarivo, and that nothing which had come from 
 Mauritius was to be taken to the capital. So great was the 
 alarm created by the representations given of the virulent 
 and fatal nature of this disease, that the system of relays of 
 messengers organized by the government was employed, 
 and the message from the capital was delivered in five days 
 afterward in Tamatave, though the distance by the ordinary 
 route is three hundred miles. Indeed, so determined was 
 the government to prevent, if possible, the introduction of 
 this dreaded scourge, that a proclamation was issued the 
 following day ordering that all articles of trade which had 
 been landed from the ships should be exposed to the sun 
 and wind for the space of forty days ; that all the dollars 
 received in payment for the cargoes of bullocks which had 
 been sold should be buried in the sand forty days, in order 
 to secure the removal of any contagion which might attach 
 to them ; and that all vessels arriving at any port of Mada- 
 gascar, from whatever part of the world they might come, 
 should be put into quarantine for the same period. A ves- 
 sel soon afterward came in from the Sechelles, but was 
 obliged to leave without supplies before the time of quaran- 
 tine had expired ; and another vessel from the Cape, with 
 horses on board, was subject to the same restrictions. 
 
 Under these circumstances I had little reason to expect 
 any change in the decision of the government, although I 
 had been exempt from all symptoms of the disease. I felt 
 that the chief object of my visit was deferred, if not alto- 
 gether frustrated, by these regulations. While, therefore,
 
 CHAP. v. ASTONISHMENT PRODUCED BY PHOTOGRAPHS. 157 
 
 I deeply regretted the extreme measures which the govern- 
 ment had been induced to take, it only remained for me, 
 after repeated conference with the officers of the place, to 
 obtain all the information within my reach during the rest 
 of the time that it would be safe, with regard to health, to 
 remain on the island. 
 
 The natives still continued to resort to my residence in 
 considerable numbers. Frequently, as soon as the door 
 was opened after daybreak in the morning, three or four 
 men would be waiting for my coming out to them, while 
 others who came in the evening generally remained until a 
 late hour of the night. Some came to see whatever might 
 be new ; others came to talk or hear ; more came to apply 
 for medicine ; and numbers to look at the books and pic- 
 tures that were generally lying on my table. An English 
 work on Madagascar excited much interest from the pic- 
 tures it contained of persons or places in their own country, 
 especially an oil-colored portrait of the chief of an adjacent 
 district, who had been personally known to some of my 
 visitors. To these objects of curiosity a still greater attrac- 
 tion was added in my photographic apparatus. When first 
 opened at the custom-house it had excited considerable no- 
 tice and some inquiry ; but when, after making the neces- 
 sary arrangements in my house, I fixed my camera on the 
 stand, and then took it out of doors for the purpose of ad- 
 justing the focus, etc., the people on the premises at the 
 time, and those who were passing by, gathered round in a 
 state of considerable excitement and expectation. 
 
 When I had adjusted the focus, I told them that the in- 
 strument was used for taking people's likenesses in a minute 
 or two by means of the sun or the light. When they look- 
 ed and saw the accuracy of the figure, with all the minute 
 detail of the features of the persons standing before the 
 instrument, as shown on the ground glass, they appeared 
 extremely delighted, and several of them, after having
 
 158 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. v. 
 
 gratified themselves by gazing at their companions, who 
 very readily took their places for that purpose, asked if I 
 would take their likenesses also. On my intimating- a will- 
 ingness to do so, one chief hurried off unperceived, and in 
 a short time returned, warm with the haste of his walking, 
 and followed by a slave bearing a bundle of considerable 
 size. On my asking what he had brought, he took out a 
 handsome scarlet lamba and other attractive articles of 
 dress, saying that he wished to be dressed in these before 
 having his likeness taken. I told him I could take no 
 likenesses that day, as I was only putting the instrument 
 together. He appeared somewhat disappointed, also, when 
 I told him that I could not take the scarlet color of the 
 lamba with the instrument, but only the form of the features 
 and dress in dark and light, similar to the specimens I 
 exhibited of pictures previously taken elsewhere. All ex- 
 pressed themselves willing to wait, but few left without 
 soliciting a promise that when all was ready their portraits 
 should be taken. 
 
 They did not allow me to forget this promise, and as 
 soon as I had prepared the chemicals, a chief who lived 
 near, and one or two of his aids-de-camp, came with a 
 number of attendants, and, having sat before the camera, 
 seemed rather puzzled to understand how a likeness similar 
 to those I had shown could result from the collodion nega- 
 tive in the glass. Two or three others sat afterward, and 
 when they left I thought appeared rather doubtful as to 
 the ultimate issue. A day or two afterward I printed off 
 some positive proofs on paper ; and when these were fixed 
 and shown to them they were equally astonished and de- 
 lighted. Many ran to fetch their relatives and friends to 
 come and see the likenesses taken by the sun ; and long 
 and earnest were the comments and questionings about 
 how it could be done. One man said it was zanahary a 
 word they sometimes use for God, by which they probably 
 meant wonderful or supernatural.
 
 CHAP. v. PHOTOGRAPHS. 159 
 
 After this, few days passed in which persons did not 
 come, often in companies, from the neighborhood, to see 
 the likenesses taken or to ask for their own-; and, so far as 
 my chemicals would allow, I was willing to gratify them, 
 as it gave them pleasure and afforded me opportunities for 
 intercourse with many to whom I might not otherwise so 
 easily have gained access. By this means I had long and 
 interesting conversations with the chiefs residing in the 
 place, as well as with strangers from a distance, including 
 a number belonging to the capital. In this manner, also, I 
 obtained correct likenesses of a considerable number of the 
 people of all classes, from the aid-de-camp of the governor 
 to the slave who came for water to the fountain in the 
 yard. I met with difficulties in the process similar to those 
 I had experienced in Mauritius, arising from the state of 
 the atmosphere and the quality of the light, so different to 
 that in England; and also, I believe, from the deteriora- 
 tion or original impurity of some of my chemicals. When 
 the likenesses were taken, frames were in great demand ; 
 and some brought large pieces of glass to be cut to the 
 proper dimensions; others proposed rubbing the quick- 
 silver from the back of looking-glasses ; but most were sat- 
 isfied with having the likeness mounted on a sheet of white 
 paper. 
 
 Besides the collodion portraits, I obtained a number of 
 interesting views of natural objects and scenery with wax- 
 paper, most of which I succeeded in bringing home as illus- 
 trations of the rich and novel forms of vegetation, as well 
 as the general beauty of the country. One or two views 
 of forest scenery, in which the large trees are covered with 
 orchidaceous and other plants, some of them in full blos- 
 som, are remarkably striking. 
 
 What effect colored landscapes, or other views of natural 
 objects, might produce upon the natives, I am unable to 
 say ; but it was curious to notice the intense interest ex-
 
 160 VISITS TO MADAGASCAE. CHAP. v. 
 
 cited by the portraits, and the different effect produced by 
 the view of a group of trees, or flowers, a house, or any 
 other inanimate object. In the former, the features, the as- 
 pect, the dress, the ornaments, and all the little accompani- 
 ments, were subjects of curious examination and animated 
 remark by wives and children, as well as companions or 
 friends. One man had a mole on his cheek, and, as it was 
 on the side next the light, it came out clear and strong; 
 nothing excited more remark than this. I saw the man 
 himself, after feeling the mole on his cheek with his finger, 
 go to touch the mole on the picture hanging up to dry, 
 exclaiming, " How very wonderful ! I never felt any thing 
 here, 1 ' putting his finger to the mole on his cheek, "and 
 yet there it is," pointing to the picture. But the form of 
 a building, the shades in a flower, the perspective of a 
 landscape, seemed to excite no interest. Another phase of 
 human character, peculiar perhaps to no country, but rather 
 common to all, was the evident anxiety about personal 
 appearance, when that was to be regarded by others or 
 perpetuated. I never suggested the arrangement of the 
 dress or the hair ; but rarely found any one come and sit 
 for a likeness without giving some previous attention to 
 one or both. Even the laboring woman, returning from 
 work in the field, with her child at her back, as shown on 
 the adjoining page, when asked if she would have her like- 
 ness taken, adjusted her burden before having her tout en- 
 semhle rendered permanent. Sometimes the women brought 
 their slaves to arrange their hair immediately before sitting 
 down. At other times the men brought looking-glass and 
 comb, and, borrowing a bowl of water to moisten their 
 hair, arrange their toilette by one holding the glass for 
 another. The Hova women wear their hair plaited in ex- 
 tremely fine braids, and tied in a number of small knots or 
 bunches all over the head, as seen in the accompanying 
 portrait. The Betsimasaraka women wear their hair braid-
 
 HOVA WOMAN.
 
 HOVAU CU1KF.
 
 CHAP. v. PORTRAIT OF A HOVA CHIEF. 165 
 
 cd for two or three inches, and then arranged in a sort of 
 circular mass or ball, two or three hanging down on each 
 side. The men usually cut their hair short, after the Eu- 
 ropean fashion. 
 
 I was for some time surprised to see so few people with 
 gray hair, either among the straight or woolly haired classes ; 
 and on remarking, on one occasion, how few either of chiefs 
 or people, masters or slaves, were gray-headed, I was told 
 that all classes were scrupulously careful to remove their 
 gray hairs, and that this accounted for the thinness of hair 
 with many, and the rarity of any mixture of gray among 
 the black. It appeared to be a matter of some importance 
 with all to avoid, as much as possible, any symptom of age, 
 and an object of great desire to appear or to be thought 
 young. I was also struck with the taste of the men in ad- 
 justing their hair. They did not comb it up from the fore- 
 head to show the development of their intellectual organs, 
 and certainly rather drew it over the side of the temples 
 than forced it back. I presumed, however, that they fol- 
 lowed the mode most esteemed among their countrymen ; 
 and I was struck with the remarkably European cast of 
 many of their countenances. Phrenologically they are a 
 fine people, having frequently high foreheads with a con- 
 siderable amount of those developments which are supposed 
 to indicate intellectual capacity, as well as moral excellence. 
 
 The portrait of a Hova chief, on the opposite page, ex- 
 hibits a type of head that I met with occasionally on the 
 coast and at the capital. The olive tinge in the complex- 
 ion of this chief and in that of his wife was exceedingly 
 slight, and in many of the Hovas it is less than is frequent- ' 
 ly seen among the inhabitants of the south of Europe. His 
 figure was slight but well proportioned, and he was rather 
 above the middle stature ; his hair appears as he usually 
 wore it, and not drawn down over his forehead. I became 
 acquainted with him by his calling to ask me to accompany
 
 !<;<; VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CIIAI-. v. 
 
 him to his residence, where one of his family was ill and in 
 great suffering. I had much intercourse with him after- 
 ward, both on the coast and at the capital, and his disposi- 
 tion always appeared peculiarly gentle and benevolent. 
 Jle usually wore the large white lamba, bordered with the 
 akotso, or fine broad stripes, the distinctive badge of the 
 Hovas. The accompanying wood-engraving is a faithful 
 copy of the photograph of which I brought home a number 
 of copies. Many of the Hovas possessed remarkably well- 
 formed heads, though not always perhaps so finely propor- 
 tioned as the one here represented. The foreheads were 
 always well shaped, even where the space between the eye- 
 brows and the hair, as in some few instances, was compara- 
 tively narrow. The eyes were never large or projecting, 
 but clear and bright ; and the eyebrows well defined with- 
 out being heavy. The nose was frequently aquiline and 
 firm, never thick and fleshy; it was, however, more fre- 
 quently straight, and sometimes short and broad, without 
 fullness at the end. The lips were generally slightly pro- 
 jecting, though seldom round and large, as will be seen in 
 the portraits of the Hovas inserted in the subsequent pages. 
 Style of feature seems to mark the Hovas much more dis- 
 tinctively than color or hair. The color of some of the 
 Hovas is as dark as that of the most swarthy races in the 
 island, while their hair is straight or curling, and their 
 features exhibit the peculiar form of the European ; and 
 even where the hair is frizzled or crisped, as is occasionally 
 the case, the features exhibit no approach to the negro type. 
 In contemplating the figure and features of the people, espe- 
 cially those whose portraits I secured, I found myself invol- 
 untarily speculating on the origin of the different races, and 
 the causes of the aspect and bearing which they exhibited. 
 The style of head shown in the accompanying portrait was 
 confined to the Hovas. I never saw any thing approaching 
 to it among the other races, though with similar features ;
 
 CHAP. v. ORIGIN OF THE HOVAS. 167 
 
 the color was among the Hovas, in some instances, as dark 
 as that of any on the island. I found myself continually 
 questioning in my own mind whether some of the Hovas 
 were originally black ; or, if not, whether by intermarriages 
 with darker races, and other causes, they had retained their 
 peculiar style of features but changed their color, and thus 
 afford additional evidence that the form of feature was more 
 permanent than color. Sodra, whose portrait, as well as 
 those of the bearers of my palanquin, and the women at the 
 well, together with the woman with the child at her back, 
 in the same engraving with the Hova woman, are all Bet- 
 simasaraka inhabitants of the eastern coast. The manner 
 of wearing their hair resembles that of the natives of Quilli- 
 mane, on the Zambesi Eiver/as described by Commodore 
 Owen in a paper published in the second volume of the 
 Transactions of the Geographical Society, but this is a coin- 
 cidence too trifling to support any conclusion as to their 
 African origin. With regard to the Hovas, no doubt can 
 be entertained that they are descended from the ancient race 
 from which the Malayan Archipelago and Eastern Polynesia 
 derive their inhabitants. Farther remarks on this subject 
 would interfere with the purpose of my narrative, which has 
 been to record what I observed, leaving others to deduce 
 their own conclusions ; and I shall be happy if the portraits 
 I have furnished prove acceptable to any who may be in- 
 terested in that important branch of inquiry which relates 
 to the several varieties of the human family. 
 
 My visitors were generally as willing to have their houses 
 taken as their own portraits ; but I sometimes found it dif- 
 ficult to prevent the crowd, which invariably gathered round, 
 from standing before the camera, either with a desire to look 
 or to be included in the picture. From the natural objects 
 in the neighborhood, I obtained views of some curious spe- 
 cies of pandanus surrounding a cattle-fold not far from my 
 dwelling. Sometimes, while thus employed, I had applica-
 
 168 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. v. 
 
 tions of another kind. On the first morning when I went 
 out, as soon as I had fixed the camera before the house 
 which I wished to take, the mistress of the premises came 
 and asked me to look at a' slave who had been suffering 
 some days with toothache. I fetched an instrument and 
 immediately extracted the tooth. Many of the natives ap- 
 peared to suffer from toothache ; and in more than one in- 
 stance I was required to remove two teeth at the same time 
 from one individual. 
 
 From all that I learned in conversing with the natives and 
 with foreigners long resident in the island, it would appear 
 that Madagascar is rich in medicinal plants and gums ; and 
 that the natives are, to a certain extent, acquainted with the 
 medicinal properties of many of the productions of their 
 country. They also manifest considerable skill in the use 
 of them ; but still many sufferers are met with whom it is 
 probable that more efficient medical skill might relieve or 
 restore. The fever which prevails at certain seasons of the 
 year, especially near the coasts, is the most fearful malady to 
 which they are liable ; and natives from the interior, as well 
 as strangers from abroad, are alike subject to its attacks; 
 while the people themselves know of no specific or effectual 
 mode of treatment for it. 
 
 Their remedies are in general effectual in the cure of the 
 bites or stings of the smaller kinds of venomous reptiles 
 and insects, though at times these are such as to occasion 
 great suffering. I once found a large scorpion on my pil- 
 low ; at another time, some large centipedes in one of my 
 boxes. The largest I saw crawled out from the frame-work 
 of the table on which I was writing, but I escaped injury 
 from all. The bite of the scorpion, I was informed, was ex- 
 ceedingly severe, and the poisonous effects long continued. 
 One day I was startled by cries of pain in the house oppo- 
 site to that in which I dwelt, and was soon afterward sent 
 for by the chief residing there to see his wife, who, in great
 
 CHAP. v. POISONOUS FISH. 169 
 
 suffering and alarm, was crying out, " I shall die ! I shall 
 die !" A number of her neighbors were gathered round the 
 mat on which she was sitting. Her husband, who was sup- 
 porting her, informed me that, while gathering fish on the 
 reef, she had been stung in the hand by a small poisonous 
 fish, which they had caught and brought for me to see. 
 There were three punctures in the woman's thumb, and her 
 hand and arm were swollen and discolored. Although 
 bathed with oil and other remedies, the pain and inflamma- 
 tion continued until the next day, when the swelling abated 
 and the poor woman recovered. 
 
 There are several poisonous kinds offish among the reefs 
 and rocks near the shore, and their bite or sting is said to 
 be sometimes fatal. There are also serpents in the island, 
 of various kinds ; but the largest are not poisonous, though 
 they will bite severely if assailed or irritated. M. Provint 
 told me that on one occasion, when he was traveling in the 
 country, having risen from the mat on which he had slept 
 during the night, he went a short distance, and having di- 
 rected his servant to prepare the mats for resuming the jour- 
 ney, was called back by the man, who, on rolling up the 
 mats, discovered an immense serpent, seven or eight feet 
 long, and as thick in the body as an ordinary wine-bottle. 
 It was coiled up in a circle exactly in the spot where he 
 had been lying, to which it had probably been attracted by 
 the warmth. He said he was startled at the sight of such a 
 monster, and called to the natives to destroy it ; but instead 
 of this the people took a piece of stick, and just guided its 
 head toward the long grass and bushes, saying, " Go you 
 away, go." They seem to regard with a sort of supersti- 
 tion, almost amounting to dread, all serpents, crocodiles, 
 and other dangerous reptiles, which they scrupulously avoid 
 injuring, under an apprehension of experiencing retaliation, 
 either from that identical reptile or from some other of its 
 species, at a future time. The only serpent which I saw
 
 170 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. v. 
 
 was a small one between three and four feet long, of a light 
 yellow or straw color, and beautifully marked with trans- 
 verse stripes of brown ; but I was told the reptile was not 
 venomous. 
 
 The gentleman under whose mats the immense serpent 
 had coiled itself while he was sleeping, also told me that, 
 when passing through the dense unfrequented parts of the 
 forests in the interior, he met with large serpents which, 
 when he had come suddenly upon them, had appeared irri- 
 tated and had reared themselves up several feet, as if to re- 
 sist his progress, till he attacked them with a spear. 
 
 Though the animals found in Madagascar are few as 
 compared with those which people the adjacent continent 
 of Africa, there are several peculiarly interesting species, 
 respecting which I was anxious to obtain information, and, 
 if possible, procure specimens. Among these was the aye- 
 aye, Cheiromys Madagascariensis, a remarkable animal, found 
 only in Madagascar, and of which only one specimen exists 
 in Europe, in the Museum of Paris. I spoke to some of the 
 intelligent natives about the aye-aye, and found it was but 
 rarely met with, and seemed to be regarded with a sort of 
 superstitious, feeling which would make them rather un- 
 willing to attempt its capture. From their remarks and 
 those of others it does not appear to be confined to the 
 western coast of the island, as has been supposed, several 
 having been taken in other parts, and I was led to infer 
 that there is more than one species, as some described the 
 animal as larger than others. 
 
 Two French gentlemen, who had resided many years on 
 the island and with whom I frequently conversed about 
 the animal, had both had it more than once in their posses- 
 sion. M. de Lastelle said its habits were nocturnal, and 
 that it was exceedingly active during the night ; that he 
 lost one during the night ; suspecting that, from supersti- 
 tious motives, the natives had set it free, he confined one
 
 NOTICES OF THE AYE-AYE. 
 
 171 
 
 afterward in a barrel in his house, but that it ate through 
 the barrel and escaped. M. Provint had kept one for some 
 time in his house. He described its eyes as large and 
 round, its ears as thin and broad, its color brown, merging 
 into gray, and its thick bushy tail shorter than that of the 
 large black and white lemur. It subsisted chiefly on boiled 
 rice and fruits, and during the day lay asleep rolled up in 
 a basket in the house, apparently undisturbed by persons 
 passing near ; but at night it was necessary to secure it, and 
 
 ultimately it escaped by eating, during the night, through a 
 bar of hard wood of more than two inches square, a feat 
 which the position and form of its strong sharp incisors or 
 cutting-teeth would render it well able to accomplish, as few 
 animals are supposed to possess greater cutting power. I
 
 172 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR CHAP. v. 
 
 was encouraged to hope, during my visits to the island, that 
 I might add an aye-aye to my collection before finally leav- 
 ing, but my friend had not been able to secure one when I 
 left. There is a stuffed specimen in the Museum of Natu- 
 ral History at Mauritius, but it did not accord exactly with 
 the accounts I had received in the island, and as Mr. P. A, 
 Whiche, who had presented it to the museum, was not cer- 
 tain whether the captain of one of his ships had brought it 
 from Madagascar or the coast of Africa, I felt doubtful 
 whether it was the Madagascar animal or not ; or, if so, 
 much inclined to expect that more than one species will be 
 found.
 
 CHAP. vi. DOMESTIC SLAVERY IN MADAGASCAR. 173 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 Domestic Slavery in Madagascar. Prices of Slaves. Modes of Punishment. 
 Numbers of Slaves. Native Manufactures. Rofia Cloth. Native Bask- 
 ets. Fondness of Natives for Barter. Conversations with the People. 
 Desire after Education. Historical Notice of the Persecution of the Chris- 
 tians. Simple Scriptural Character of their Faith. Testimonies in their 
 Favor. Scriptural Basis of their religious Organizations and Observances. 
 Social Gatherings. Perils to which they have been exposed. Public 
 Confessions. Constancy unto Death. Nature and Severity of their Pun- 
 ishments. Numbers who have suffered on account of their Religion. Ex- 
 ecutions in 1849. Latest Edict against Christian Observances. Opinions 
 of the Natives which render Christianity peculiarly criminal in the Estima- 
 tion of the Heathen. Claims of the Christians to Sympathy and Com- 
 passion. 
 
 IN the domestic arrangements of the Malagasy most of 
 the employments connected with providing and preparing 
 food are performed by slaves. Slavery, in fact, is one of 
 the " domestic institutions" of the country. It involves the 
 buying and selling of men and women, sometimes in the 
 public markets, and at other times by taking them about 
 from place to place, and offering them like any other goods 
 for sale. 
 
 I was walking one day on the beach with my companion 
 when a man approached us, followed by a boy about eleven 
 or twelve years old. The man stopped and asked an officer 
 standing near if he wanted a slave, and, pointing to the boy, 
 said he was for sale ; the price, he added, was ten dollars. 
 The party appealed to declining to purchase, the man made 
 a sign to the boy and then walked on, the slave following 
 at the distance of a few paces. On another occasion, as I 
 was sitting at breakfast, my servant came to say that some
 
 174 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. vi. 
 
 one wished to speak to me, and, on my going out, I found 
 two men in the court or yard ; one of them asked me if I 
 did not want to buy a boy, pointing to a nice, healthy -look- 
 ing lad, scarcely twelve years of age, who stood behind him, 
 and whom he called to come forward and show himself. 
 On my shaking my head and intimating that I did not 
 want a slave, it was explained that it was not temporary 
 service that was offered, but that the boy would work for 
 me all his life, or could be sold to another, and that the 
 price was only ten dollars, little more than two pounds En- 
 glish money. My continued refusal left no hope of the lad 
 being sold to me, and they soon went away, followed by 
 their slave, whose appearance interested me much, and ex- 
 cited strong feelings of commiseration toward one in whose 
 breast all the ardent aspirations of youth, with the prospects 
 of happiness and contentment in after-life, must be stifled 
 by the stern reality that he would never be his own, but 
 must, until death should release him from his bondage, ren- 
 der unrequited labor to another. The price of a male slave 
 was from seventy to one hundred dollars, and of a female 
 slave from twenty to forty dollars. 
 
 From the little which. I saw of the domestic slaves in 
 Madagascar, I should think their condition vastly superior 
 to that of the severe labor and suffering which characterized 
 the slavery of our West Indian colonies, yet I occasionally 
 saw some of the inevitable consequences of the system that 
 were perhaps more revolting in their moral degradation 
 than in the physical suffering inflicted. In one of the houses 
 which I entered one day a number of female slaves were at 
 work. Some of them were carrying baskets of cotton or 
 other articles from one room to another, and, as they passed 
 along, I saw one young girl who had a couple of boards 
 fixed on her shoulders, each of them rather more than two 
 feet long, and ten inches or a foot wide, fastened together 
 by pieces of wood nailed on the under side. A piece had
 
 MODES OF PUNISHING SLAVES. 
 
 175 
 
 been cut out of each board in the middle, so that, when 
 fix.ed together, they fitted close to her neck, and the poor 
 girl, while wearing this instrument of punishment and dis- 
 grace, was working with the rest. On another occasion I 
 saw a boy, apparently about fifteen years of age, with a 
 rough, heavy iron collar on his naked neck. It seemed to 
 
 MODES OP PUNISHING SLAVES. 
 
 be formed by a square bar of iron, about three quarters of 
 an inch thick, being bent round his neck, and the two ends 
 then joined together. Yet he was working with a number 
 of other boys and men employed in carrying fire-wood to 
 the beach for the shipping. Another slave, whom I saw 
 working near the same place, had an iron collar round his 
 neck, with two or three pointed iron spikes, six or seven 
 inches long, fixed in the collar, and standing up by the 
 sides of his head. These, however, were the only instances 
 of this kind of punishment which came under my notice.
 
 176 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. vi. 
 
 So short a residence as mine among the people afforded 
 opportunity for little beyond a passing glance at the outside 
 aspect of slavery in Madagascar, and a brief notice of the 
 subject is consequently all that I have attempted. The con- 
 dition of the slaves as compared with that of the free, though 
 exhibiting many of the evils inherent in slavery, and insep- 
 arable from it, appeared in many respects much less oppress- 
 ive than I had been prepared to expect. In some instances, 
 however, it was hopeless, the sentence of being sold into 
 slavery for some offense peculiarly obnoxious to the author- 
 ities being at times made irreversible ; so that, however the 
 friends or relatives of the party punished might be able or 
 disposed to effect his liberation by the payment of the sum 
 at which he had been valued, or for which he was sold, they 
 were not allowed to do so, the penalty inflicted having been 
 not only slavery, but unredeemable slavery. This sentence 
 has been rendered still more oppressive in the case of some 
 of the Christians, when one condition of their slavery has 
 been that they should only be sold to parties who would 
 undertake to keep them continually at hard work. 
 
 The proportion of slaves to the entire population must be 
 great, as the children of all slaves are such from birth ; and, 
 besides the natural increase of the slave population, many 
 born free become slaves in consequence of debt, crime, or 
 capture in war. The Hovas have of late years returned 
 from their military expeditions into distant parts of the 
 island with vast numbers of captives, often hundreds, and 
 sometimes thousands, chiefly youths, women, and children, 
 all of whom are usually sold for slaves, and as such are dis- 
 tributed over the whole of the country. 
 
 I have already noticed the frequent visits of those who 
 came to inquire what new or needed articles I had brought 
 to sell, but far greater numbers came to endeavor to induce 
 me to buy. Almost all classes appear exceedingly fond of 
 bartering, or buying and selling; and no long intervals
 
 CHAP. vi. MATS. EOFIA CLOTH. 177 
 
 passed with me uninterrupted by persons coming to offer 
 either poultry, eggs, honey, or articles of native manufac- 
 ture for sale. 
 
 Among the latter were some beautiful mats, for covering 
 their floors or forming their beds. The sleeping-mats are 
 generally of one uniform- color, but in some instances the 
 patterns are worked in different colors, formed by steeping 
 the rushes in native dyes, which are permanent, and yet al- 
 low the rush to retain its smooth and shining appearance. 
 The only colors I observed in these articles were black and 
 various shades of red. 
 
 With a similar kind of rush they also weave great num- 
 bers of matting-bags, in which they preserve their rice, both 
 for their own use and for exportatin. But the article most 
 extensively manufactured throughout the island, both for 
 home use and for exportation, is a coarse kind of cloth 
 woven with the thread or strips of the young inner leaflets 
 of the rofia palm. These leaflets are about three or four 
 feet long, but in weaving the cloth a number of the split 
 threads are fastened together, and the cloth is made in pieces 
 varying from three to four yards in length, and nearly a 
 yard wide. The texture of the cloth is rather coarse and 
 stiff to the touch, but exceedingly tough and durable ; the 
 color is a sort of nankeen-yellow, generally with two or 
 three stripes of blue, produced by preparations of native in- 
 digo, extending through the whole length. Eofia cloth is 
 used for many purposes in the island, and constitutes almost 
 the only clothing of the laboring classes. The threads of 
 this cloth are flat and untwisted. I have entered some of 
 the houses in which the process of weaving was going on, 
 and found the loom extremely simple ; the process is labo- 
 rious and slow. At other times I have seen the people, as 
 I passed through the villages, arranging the threads for 
 their warp under the shade of overspreading trees outside 
 their dwellings. 
 
 M
 
 178 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CIJAP. vi. 
 
 The colored patterns of finer cloths are produced by dye- 
 ing the threads, not by coloring or printing the cloth after 
 it is woven. Hence they resemble what in England are 
 called gingham and plaid patterns. These patterns are ar- 
 ranged with great exactness and taste, and the colors, almost 
 always rich and deep, are much more varied and numerous 
 than might be expected, considering the ignorance of chem- 
 istry in their formation. I saw many articles of dress, such 
 as cloaks, coats, jackets, and waistcoats, made of rofia cloth, 
 both in Madagascar and Mauritius, and was surprised at the 
 freshness of the colors even in the oldest cloths. 
 
 Native baskets of various sizes and materials were also 
 brought to me for sale. Some of these were oblong, like a 
 lady's work-box in size, and generally woven in a neat pat- 
 tern of red and white, or with the addition of black. Others 
 were smaller and square, covered with a lid to which a 
 handle was attached in a curious manner. But the most 
 beautiful was a small kind of basket or woven box, made 
 of a silvery white kind of grass split into very fine threads 
 or strips, plaited with extreme neatness, and almost endless 
 diversity of beautiful pattern. These boxes are oblong or 
 square, and vary in size from half an inch to two, three, or 
 nine inches square. Nothing can surpass the delicacy of 
 the workmanship of these articles, in which, like the mats, 
 there is no careless joining, loose thread, or unfinished part 
 to be found. What renders them more remarkable is that 
 they are all, even the smallest, lined with a different kind 
 of plait, so that they have the same firmness, durability, and 
 general completeness as the matting. Without losing any 
 thing of this, they are many of them so small as scarcely to 
 contain a lady's ring, and certainly not her thimble. I be- 
 lieve these delicate articles are manufactured only by the 
 women of the Hovas, or other tribes occupying the centre 
 of the island. 
 
 Besides the mats and baskets, many persons are employed
 
 CHAP. vi. IMPORTUNITY OF TRADERS. 179 
 
 in the manufacture of hats, for use among the natives, for 
 sale to the ships' crews, or for exportation. One kind is 
 made of grass, resembling in appearance our fine English 
 straw, though less durable ; others are made of different 
 species of rushes, sometimes as fine, and very much resem- 
 bling Leghorn. They are well-shaped and durable, and 
 exceedingly valuable for the comfortable shade they afford. 
 
 All these articles, though sometimes brought for sale by 
 the men, were manufactured by the women ; the rofia cloth 
 and the coarser kinds of mats by the slaves. A man and 
 his wife resided in the same compound or inclosure with 
 me, though they did not belong to the owner of the house, 
 but to different masters. I observed that the woman was 
 chiefly employed in the gathering and drying of rushes and 
 in the manufacturing of large mats or bags for rice, both of 
 which were sold for the benefit of her master. 
 
 I was Sometimes amused with the perseverance manifested 
 by the venders of different kinds of goods, who continued 
 to come time after time, notwithstanding the most explicit 
 declaration that none of their articles were needed. One 
 man, who had brought poultry and fish, and then matting 
 and baskets, but without success, most importunately de- 
 manded what I did want. I told him that if, during his 
 journeys in the forests, he should meet with any plants or 
 flowers such as I showed him drawings of I would buy 
 them of him, provided they were of the right sorts. He 
 seemed quite delighted, and said he would bring some, of- 
 fering at the same time to become my aid-de-camp, and to 
 carry out my wishes in regard to any thing I might desire 
 to obtain. I begged to decline his proposal for this perma- 
 nent appointment, but assured him again that if he found 
 any of the plants I was anxious to obtain I would reward 
 him for his trouble. 
 
 Most of the parties who came with articles for sale re- 
 mained only a short time ; others, however, made much
 
 180 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. vi. 
 
 longer visits, and as my object was to learn as much as pos- 
 sible of their opinions and circumstances in reference to sub- 
 jects which were to me most interesting, they were encour- 
 aged to come as often and to stay as long as they chose. 
 My knowledge of the language was still extremely limit- 
 ed, and when we advanced beyond the mere common-place 
 terms of civility on meeting and parting I generally pro- 
 posed to them to write down what they had to say. In this 
 manner they often proposed deeply interesting and import- 
 ant inquiries. I then wrote down my replies, or such ques- 
 tions as I wished them to answer, and, though this process 
 was somewhat tedious, it had, as I was circumstanced, some 
 great advantages, for by this means I was able to preserve 
 much valuable information which might otherwise have 
 been forgotten ; and although in the expression of my own 
 sentiments or wishes I might not have been quite correct, 
 yet, by the help of the Malagasy dictionary and the Scrip- 
 tures translated into that language, I could always be sure 
 of the right words for the things I wished to state, though I 
 might still be at fault with the prefixes or affixes of differ- 
 ent words, which, like the hooks and chains which link the 
 carriages of a rail-way train together, unite in their proper 
 order the chief words of a sentence. 
 
 On several subjects of interest I had written to intelligent 
 natives in other parts of the island, and received from them 
 very ample communications, which often furnished matter 
 for much pleasing, and to me instructive conversation. The 
 books I had with me, some of them illustrated, also suggest- 
 ed topics of earnest and repeated inquiry on the part of my 
 visitors, whose interest never tired, while the feeling seemed 
 deep and powerful in reference to the subjects which thus 
 engaged our attention. The opinions entertained, the usages 
 observed, the course of procedure followed by individuals 
 or communities in other Christian countries, were all mat- 
 ters of lively interest to them ; and, to the best of my abil-
 
 CHAP. vi. CONVERSATIONS WITH THE PEOPLE. 181 
 
 ity, I endeavored to give them, on these and similar sub- 
 jects, such information as seemed most likely to be useful as 
 well as interesting to them. 
 
 The subject of general education was always a welcome 
 and interesting topic. Many seemed anxious also to know 
 more of the world, as well as the condition and pursuits of 
 its various inhabitants ; and I often regretted that I had not 
 with me an atlas, some good maps, or a globe, which might, 
 at one view, have corrected many of their erroneous ideas 
 on questions of geography, while the same means might 
 have given them more correct ideas of the general outline, 
 relative position, and extent of the several portions of our 
 globe. The war with the Eussians, which about this time 
 commenced, though naturally a subject of great excitement, 
 and of frequent conversation among the foreigners residing 
 on the island or visiting the port, did not appear to inter- 
 est the people so much as some of the reports they had heard 
 of rail- ways and steam-navigation, or the electric telegraph. 
 I did not hear that a steam-vessel had ever visited Tama- 
 tave. 
 
 In answer to my inquiries, I learned that, although there 
 were no longer any public schools, most of the intelligent 
 members of the community were deeply sensible of the 
 value of education, and that the chiefs and Others who were 
 able to read used their best endeavors to teach their own 
 children. I was also informed, but am not certain how cor- 
 rectly, that books with the words arranged in lines extend- 
 ing across the page were prohibited, but that books with the 
 words arranged in columns I suppose spelling-books 
 would be gladly received. 
 
 I was naturally led to make many inquiries respecting 
 the Christians, and received far more ample and explicit in- 
 formation than I had anticipated. All spoke of the great 
 hardships they had endured, of the unimpeachable tenor of 
 their lives in every respect in which their religion was not
 
 182 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR CHAP. vi. 
 
 concerned: their religion was their only crime. Opinions 
 varied much as to their numbers, some parties expressing 
 themselves as if such had been the severe and decisive char- 
 acter of the measures adopted to prevent the spread of their 
 opinions among the people that but few remained. Others, 
 however, were, of a different opinion, though all agreed in 
 stating that no Christian observances were any longer pub- 
 licly practiced in the country. 
 
 Conversations on this all-important subject were render- 
 ed the more interesting to me, as well as more instructive 
 and affecting, from the circumstance of such conversations 
 being frequently maintained with those who had been per- 
 sonally connected with the proceedings to which they re- 
 ferred, and involved in all their fearful consequences. In- 
 tercourse, the most frank and cordial, was often held in this 
 manner with those who had themselves been made acquaint- 
 ed with what these people believed with the truths of Di- 
 vine revelation ; who had experienced something of the 
 morally transforming influence of that truth, and had cher- 
 ished the hopes of future blessedness which it alone can in- 
 spire. They had also suffered much in the present life for 
 their hopes of the life to come. Some had endured the or- 
 deal of the tangena, or poison- water ; some had suffered deg- 
 radation, fine, bondage, and convict labor, on account of 
 having been implicated with the Christians. They bore in 
 their bodies the marks of their sufferings. Their communi- 
 cations, therefore, were not mere recitals of crude specula- 
 tions, nor endeavors to satisfy an aimless curiosity, but re- 
 lated to matters with the importance of which they had 
 been deeply impressed, and in which they had felt a per- 
 sonal and anxious solicitude upon their minds and hearts. 
 The truth had operated like seed germinating upon a vir- 
 gin soil, and the freshness and vigor of its growth had been 
 proportionate. I could not avoid noticing the absence of 
 all bitter and vindictive feelings toward those who had in-
 
 CHAP vi. THEIR STANDARD OF MORAL CHARACTER. 183 
 
 flicted the sufferings they had borne. They seemed to re- 
 gard it as permitted by God, and to speak of it as a cause 
 for exercising confidence in the Most High. 
 
 The circumstances of the individuals about whom we 
 often conversed had been peculiar and almost unprecedent- 
 ed in the annals of the past. Those from whom alone they 
 had received instruction on the subject of religion had been 
 removed almost as soon as their lessons had begun to take 
 effect, arid, thus deprived of their teachers, but few means 
 were left to them of supplying the deficiency which must 
 have been severely felt. They had been required by the 
 authorities under whom they lived to surrender all their 
 books, and the few retained were forbidden to be used. The 
 chief means of preserving their faith were small portions of 
 God's Word. As, in our physical organization, the loss 'of 
 one faculty is often attended with the augmented efficiency 
 of those that remain, so, with regard to their means of spir- 
 itual improvement, deprived of all other advantages, and 
 possessing that which remained only in a very limited de- 
 gree, they seemed to have acquired a familiarity with those 
 portions of divine truth to which they had access, and to 
 have studied them with an avidity, affection, and persever- 
 ance truly wonderful. From all the accounts that were 
 given, the truth seems to have been sought as a priceless 
 treasure, and hoarded in their hearts as something more 
 precious than gold and dearer than life. Their faith in its 
 entireness and solidity was based simply on the Scriptures. 
 They seem neither to have known or thought of any sys- 
 tem or creed as such, but to have regarded the truth of the 
 Bible as that which was able to make them wise for both 
 worlds. Intimately associated with their careful study of 
 the Scriptures seems to have been their constant habit of 
 prayer. It often appeared to me that they might have been 
 appropriately called by the same name as that by which the 
 early Christians in the South Sea Islands were universally
 
 184 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. vl. 
 
 designated, the praying people. The Word of God and pray- 
 er seem to have been the two sources whence they derived 
 that vigor and maturity of Christian character which they 
 have presented to the world. 
 
 In these men, as well as elsewhere, divine truth had pro- 
 duced those astonishing transformations of character which 
 rendered them witnesses for God, living evidences, the un- 
 equivocal, unmistakable subjects of a wonderful moral 
 change. 
 
 The standard of moral excellence which, so far as I could 
 learn, the Christians had selected, was simply that which is 
 presented by the Scriptures, and to attain this standard and 
 practically but most unobtrusively to exhibit- it to others 
 appears to have been their constant aim, at the same time 
 that it proved one undeniable source of their sufferings ; for 
 the introduction and exemplification of the morality of the 
 Bible was said to be changing the customs of the country. 
 Still it was even acknowledged by some whose office it was 
 to try, condemn, and punish the professors of this faith 
 that their conduct was indeed different from that of others. 
 We do not wonder at the observation of one of these judges, 
 who, when remarking on the scrupulous exactness with 
 which property committed to their trust had been returned, 
 observed, " These people would be good servants indeed if 
 it were not for their praying." 
 
 Besides intercourse with the people in reference to what 
 had been the aspect which the Gospel had presented in 
 those who professed it, I addressed a number of inquiries 
 to persons of different classes, and their testimony confirm- 
 ed the views here given of the consistent lives of those who 
 were regarded as Christians and continued to be numbered 
 with the people of God. Doubtless there were exceptions, 
 but they were only exceptions ; and such was the general 
 nature of the evidence given in their favor, and such, we 
 have reason to believe, had been in reality the blameless 
 tenor of their lives.
 
 CHAP. vi. ECCLESIASTICAL POLITY. 185 
 
 At the time of my visit these people had been seventeen 
 or eighteen years without any foreign teachers, or any ex- 
 perienced counselor or guide ; and, as I heard that at differ- 
 ent times there had been considerable numbers, I was led 
 to make inquiries respecting the course they had pursued 
 in reference to such proceedings as would be likely to be 
 engaged in by persons dwelling near or holding social in- 
 tercourse together. While I heard of nothing to disturb 
 the unselfish affection, the benevolent consideration, and 
 the sacred fellowship which they seem to have shared to- 
 gether, I was as much surprised as delighted to find that 
 their organization for the purpose of mutual edification and 
 the spiritual benefit of others had been according to the 
 plain and simple model propounded in the Holy Scriptures. 
 Just as it is there exhibited, so far as their means admitted 
 and their necessities required, it ha<jl been by them adopt- 
 ed ; and whatever distinctive form their ecclesiastical poli- 
 ty, if such a term be applicable, may in any future age as- 
 sume, all that can be said of the Martyr Church of Mada- 
 gascar in its earlier years is, that it has been built by its 
 own members, guided, we trust, by God's Spirit, upon the 
 foundation of the few solid and imperishable principles set 
 forth in the teaching of the New Testament. 
 
 It has been already stated that the government of Mada- 
 gascar had forbidden the performance of any act of Chris- 
 tian worship under the severest penalties. There has, con- 
 sequently, been no public worship or other outward relig- 
 ious observance; but I learned that in reference to those 
 teachings which enjoin the avowal of such as make profes- 
 sion of their faith, and the uniting in fellowship for com- 
 memorating that ordinance whereby the disciples of the 
 Lord Jesus do show forth his death till He come, they had 
 been accustomed, in more than one locality, to follow as 
 closely as possible the few simple and affecting directions 
 of the Savior himself, and the illustration of those given
 
 18G VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. vi. 
 
 by the great apostle of the Gentiles. They had, I was in- 
 formed, at times found a difficulty with regard to the ele- 
 ments to be used; but, so far as their circumstances ad- 
 mitted, they had followed, as their safe and unerring guide, 
 the Word of inspired Truth. If, in relation to any of these 
 subjects, they had not observed all that may be taught in 
 the New Testament, they had added nothing thereunto. 
 Nothing traceable to the latent influence of idolatry, or 
 commended by imaginary fitness or advantage, had, so far 
 as I heard, been introduced, but they had been content, in 
 these and other matters, to adhere to the written Word, 
 only too thankful when permitted peacefully to do so. I 
 was informed that, although they knew the peril to which 
 they were exposed, they had been accustomed to listen to 
 the words of instruction and encouragement, to sing the 
 praise of the divine Eedeemer, and to draw near the mercy- 
 seat in prayer. These simple services were held not only 
 in the habitations of men, though chiefly at the midnight 
 hour, but also on the distant mountain's side, in the dreary 
 cavern, or in the concealment of the remote and almost im- 
 pervious forest. 
 
 Love of life, and nature's first great impulse, self-preserv- 
 ation, had induced such gatherings as these, because their 
 creed and their conduct had been declared by the govern- 
 ment to be criminal and injurious to the nation. There 
 did not, however, appear to have been the slightest founda- 
 tion for any such conclusion, so far as the sentiments or the 
 conduct of the Christians had been concerned. Many had 
 been the channels through which accusations against them 
 had come to the authorities during the long period of their 
 proscription. Sometimes it was by the subordinates of 
 those in authority, who were ordered to track their steps 
 and to listen or spy around their dwellings ; sometimes by 
 those to whom, impelled by the yearnings of love to their 
 souls, they had declared the foundation of their own hopes ;
 
 CHAP. vi. CONSTANCY UNTO DEATH. 187 
 
 sometimes by their nearest relatives. The father had some- 
 times accused his child. Indictments against some had 
 been preferred by those to whom the same mother had 
 given birth, and with whom they would otherwise have 
 been laid, after death, side by side in the same tomb. Even 
 the slaves who for years had served in their families, and 
 had thus become acquainted with all their habits, had been 
 admitted as accusers and witnesses against them. Yet 
 none of these had laid to their charge any thing but their 
 religion. 
 
 On the other hand, much had been by the same means 
 adduced in their favor. They did not deny that they had 
 prayed, but freely and frankly, and no one impeached their 
 testimony, declared that they had prayed for their sover- 
 eign and her officers, for the good of the kingdom, and the 
 prosperity and happiness of the people. No contrary evi- 
 dence was ever brought forward, and even their judges, 
 after listening to the items of accusation against them, have 
 been known to declare that there was no harm in that ; 
 but the reading of the book and the praying had been pro- 
 hibited, and slavery, torture, or death was the penalty of 
 disregarding such prohibition. The book had taught them 
 to fear God and honor the king, and prayer had been the 
 means of enabling them to do both, to meet the claims of 
 the present life, and yet to cherish the hope of the life 
 which is to come. As one of their own number simply 
 yet forcibly expressed it, when, having been condemned to 
 die on account of his faith, a message was brought in the 
 name of the sovereign to the effect that if he would re- 
 nounce his religion and serve the queen, not only should 
 his life be spared, but all the benefits of the sovereign's fa- 
 vor should be bestowed, he thanked the queen for the mes- 
 sage, but declared he could not forsake Christ. He was 
 not insensible to the advantages offered, though the queen's 
 benefits could only extend to this life, and the favor of his
 
 188 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. vi. 
 
 Savior would last forever. " Yet," he added, " I can serve 
 the queen." The answer was not deemed satisfactory, and 
 he was put to death. 
 
 Had the authorities or the people in general understood 
 and appreciated the principles and character of the Chris- 
 tians, the government would have perceived that it was 
 cutting the sinews of its strength by destroying them, and 
 depriving the community of its most valuable members. 
 The time has, perhaps, not yet arrived for us to become ac- 
 quainted with all, or even with the principal motives by 
 which the present government has been influenced; but 
 their proceedings have developed principles, on the recog- 
 nition of which depends the stability of all human organ- 
 izations, and have afforded illustrations of lessons often 
 taught before, and which are of the deepest interest to all 
 concerned for the liberties and the well-being of mankind. 
 "What Nebuchadnezzar attempted on the plains of Dura, 
 what the Eoman emperor attempted in the days of Pliny, 
 and what more recent rulers, in after times, have attempted 
 in the states of Europe, has in our tunes been attempted in 
 Madagascar, modified, it may be, by the external usages of 
 the age or the circumstances of the people, but differing 
 little in the spirit, the agency, or the end. 
 
 With the results of the past we are acquainted ; the issue 
 of the present, though admitting of no doubt either to the 
 student of history or the believer in revelation, remains yet 
 to be disclosed. Events have taken place in the present 
 day in Madagascar which will perhaps exert a more power- 
 ful influence than has yet been apparent over the future of 
 that people, if not on other nations. 
 
 More than twenty years have passed since the profession 
 of the Christian faith was publicly prohibited in Madagas- 
 car, and during this period every available means have 
 been employed, often with subtile ingenuity and great se- 
 verity, to enforce the prohibition. Death has not only been
 
 CHAP. vi. VARIETIES OF PUNISHMENT. 189 
 
 inflicted, but, in the preliminary treatment of the condemn- 
 ed, and in the manner and circumstances of their punish- 
 ment, it has been an object to augment the agony of their 
 sufferings, and to render the prospect of death most fright- 
 fully appalling. The first Christian martyr in Madagascar 
 suffered in 1837, the second in the following year. Three 
 or four years after, nine at least were put to death, in such 
 a manner, and with such accompanying circumstances, as 
 were intended to involve the supposed criminals in the 
 deepest ignominy. In the year 1846 the sufferings of the 
 people appear to have been great ; but the severest persecu- 
 tion to which they were subjected, and in which the greatest 
 number fell, occurred in the year 1849. At this period a 
 few saved their lives by escaping from the island. Some 
 of these visited our country,* and all eventually found an 
 asylum in Mauritius. Others, I was informed, who had 
 been either sentenced to die, or who had too much reason 
 to fear that if seized their lives would be forfeited, escaped, 
 and either remained in concealment or became homeless 
 wanderers in the country. 
 
 But, besides these, multitudes, probably amounting to 
 thousands, and including those of every rank and age, from 
 the unconscious infant who, with its parents, had been sold 
 into slavery, to the venerable sire whose long life had been 
 spent in the service of his country or from the noble, 
 whose rank and lineage placed him near the throne, to the 
 poor and friendless slave all had been punished for sup- 
 posed or acknowledged participation in the reading of the 
 Christian's book or the offering of the Christian's prayer. 
 The punishments inflicted had been almost as varied as the 
 condition or the circumstances of the criminal. The tan- 
 gena, or ordeal of poison-water, had frequently been ad- 
 
 * An interesting and deeply-affecting narrative of the early persecutions 
 of the Christians in Madagascar, published in London in 1840, by the late 
 Messrs. Freeman and Johns, formerly missionaries in the island.
 
 190 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAT. vi. 
 
 ministered with, fatal effects. Fines had been imposed, from 
 a single dollar to an amount equal to the estimated value 
 at which a delinquent or his family could be ransomed. 
 Thus, on one occasion, a prince was fined 100 dollars, esti- 
 mated at half his redemption price. Confiscation and seiz- 
 ure had been made of house and land, and of every kind 
 of property belonging to the accused. Multitudes were re- 
 duced to slavery, sold in the public markets, and subjected 
 to all the ordinary miseries resulting from separation from 
 their nearest relatives, frequently with two extra conditions 
 intended to enhance the bitterness of their cup, viz., that 
 they should only be sold to those who would engage to 
 make them labor severely and continuously, and that their 
 relatives or friends should not be allowed to redeem them, 
 but that they should be, as it was expressed, " like weeds 
 of the waste, bowing down their heads till they died." 
 Among the communications which I received were deeply- 
 affecting accounts of the circumstances of some who, nine- 
 teen years before, or at a later period, had been sold into 
 slavery, and of the prices which had been paid for them by 
 their purchasers. Some of these were the widows of those 
 who had been put to death, some were single men or wom- 
 en, others were heads of families, and their wives and chil- 
 dren were sold with. them. The prices ranged from 23 to 
 90 dollars for a single individual, and from 110 dollars for 
 a man and his wife to 178 for a man and three children. 
 
 Numbers, not sold into perpetual slavery, had been re- 
 duced in rank and sentenced to the hardest kind of labor, 
 such as quarrying, or carrying stones for the erection of 
 government buildings, or other equally severe labor. Sev- 
 eral who, though of considerable rank, had for a long time 
 thus labored, and some among them who have since carried 
 to their graves the marks of their punishments, were my 
 frequent visitors ; others, I learned, had been tortured with 
 stripes. Some had been sentenced to imprisonment, and
 
 CHAP. vi. KECITAL OF CHARGES. 191 
 
 were then in confinement; some were wandering as out- 
 casts from society; others, including men and women of 
 rank and station, had been loaded with rude and cumbrous 
 fetters, and a number had been put to death. 
 
 I obtained a detailed and deeply-affecting account, writ- 
 ten in the native language, with the substance of it also in 
 English, of the trials of the Christians in 1849, the period 
 of the last severe persecution. Numbers were informed 
 against, and apprehended by officers of government bearing 
 a silver spear designated " The hater of lies," and numbers, 
 on the requisition of the government, acknowledged their 
 having engaged in Christian worship. The nature of their 
 offense may be inferred from the subjoined recital of the 
 practices of which they were accused during the last perse- 
 cution. When a number of them were then arraigned, it 
 was asked by the chief officer, " What is this that you do? 
 This that the queen hates ; that which says believe in it or 
 him, and obey the Gospel; refusing to fight and quarrel 
 with each other; refusing to swear by their sisters with a 
 stubbornness like that of stones or wood ; observing the 
 Sabbath as a day of rest; the taking of the juice of the 
 grape and a little bread, and invoking a blessing on the 
 head, and then falling down to the ground, and when the 
 head is raised the tears running down from the eyes. Now, 
 are you to do these things, or are you not ? for such things, 
 it is said, are done by the praying people, and on this ac- 
 count the people are made to take the oath." Then Rama- 
 ry stood up before the people, and said, " I believe in God, 
 for He has made all things, and I follow (or believe) the 
 Gospel of God. And in regard to fighting or quarreling, 
 if we, who are one people, fight and quarrel (among our- 
 selves), what good would be done ? But if the enemies of 
 our country come, the servants of God will fight. And in 
 regard to swearing, if the truth is told, does swearing make 
 the truth a lie ? And, if a lie is told, does swearing make
 
 192 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. vi. 
 
 the lie truth ? For the truth is truth, and a lie is a lie, 
 whether sworn to or not. I put my trust in God, and in 
 Jesus Christ, the Savior and Eedeemer of all ; He is able to 
 be that to all that believe." 
 
 Of the numbers implicated some idea may be formed 
 from the fact that, at one time and at one place, 37 who 
 had explained or preached the Word were reduced to sla- 
 very with their wives and children ; 42 who had possessed 
 books were made slaves, and their property seized ; 27 who 
 had possessed books, and who had preached, or explained, 
 were made slaves with their wives and children; 6 with 
 whom it was a second offense were imprisoned; 2055 had 
 paid one dollar each ; 18 had been put to death : 14 hurled 
 from the steep rock, and 4 burned alive. 
 
 Those who had been appointed to die were treated with 
 the greatest indignity. They were wrapped in old torn or 
 dirty mats, and rags were stuffed into their mouths. Sev- 
 enteen of them had been tied each along a pole, and had 
 been thus carried between two men bearing the pole on 
 their shoulders to the place where sentence was to be pro- 
 nounced. One of their number, being a young female, 
 walked behind the rest. Four of them, being nobles, were 
 not killed in the ordinary way, as there is an aversion to the 
 shedding of the blood of nobles ; they were therefore sen- 
 tenced to be burned. When the sentence was pronounced, 
 some derided, and the condemned were then carried away 
 to the places of execution. The four nobles were burned 
 alive in a place by themselves. Two of them, viz., Andri- 
 ampinery and Kamanandalana, were husband and wife, the 
 latter expecting to become a mother. At the place of exe- 
 cution life was offered them if they would take the required 
 idolatrous oath. Declining to do this, they were bound, and 
 laid on the pile of wood or placed between split poles, more 
 wood being heaped upon them, and the pile was then kin- 
 dled. Amid the smoke and blaze of the burning wood the
 
 CHAP. vi. EXECUTIONS IN 1849. 193 
 
 pangs of maternity were added to those of an agonizing 
 death, and at this awful moment the martyr's child was 
 born. I asked my informants what the executioners or by- 
 standers did with the babe : they answered, " Thrust it into 
 the flames, where its body was burned with its parents', its 
 spirit to ascend with theirs to God." 
 
 The remaining fourteen were taken to a place of common 
 execution, whither a number of felons who had been sen- 
 tenced to death were also taken to be executed together 
 with the Christians. The latter were put to death by being 
 thrown over a steep precipice the Tarpeian Eock of An- 
 tananarivo. Each one was suspended by a cord on or near 
 the edge of the precipice, and there offered life on condition 
 of renouncing Christ and taking the required oaths. Of 
 these there was one who, though in the prospect of an igno- 
 minious, instant, and violent death, spoke with such calm 
 self-possession and humble confidence and hope of the near 
 prospect of glory and immortal blessedness, as very deeply 
 to affect those around him. The young woman who had 
 walked to the place of execution it was hoped would be in- 
 duced to recant. With this view she was, according to or- 
 ders, reserved until the last, and placed in such a position 
 as to see all the others, one after another, hurled over the 
 fatal rock. So far from being intimidated she requested to 
 follow her friends, when the idol-keeper present struck her 
 on the face, and urged her to take the oath and acknowl- 
 edge the idols. She refused, and begged to share the fate 
 of her friends. The executioner then said, " She is an idiot, 
 and does not know what she says ; take her away." She 
 was then taken from the place, and afterward sent to a dis- 
 tant part of the country. 
 
 These fearful deeds of blood and fire were perpetrated in 
 the month of March, 1849, and I did not learn that since 
 that period persecution had been so violent as before, or 
 that any had been put to death. 
 
 N
 
 194 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. vi. 
 
 Such appear to be some of the more prominent outlines 
 of the progress of Christianity in Madagascar down to the 
 period above specified. Of its present state all that is suit- 
 able to say is, that there is much to call forth sincere sym- 
 pathy with* the sufferers, to stimulate the prayers and en- 
 courage the hopes of those to whom its progress is an ob- 
 ject of interest and solicitude. The hostility of the higher 
 powers to the Christian religion did not, from all I saw and 
 heard, appear to be so active and determined as formerly. 
 This might be in part accounted for by the combined influ- 
 ence of several events, which, in the course of Divine Prov- 
 idence, have, since that period, occurred. Among these 
 might be mentioned the adoption of the Christian faith by 
 the young prince, the queen's only son, and the heir appar- 
 ent to the throne. This important event took place ten 
 years ago, and has been followed by the conversion of an- 
 other member of the royal family, who has since become a 
 sincere and devoted Christian. Death, also, has removed 
 some high in authority and influence who were unfriendly 
 to the Christians, and their places have been filled by oth- 
 ers differently minded ; in reference to one of whom it is 
 said that, when it was subsequently urged to impose a sec- 
 ond period of labor as a penalty upon those who had al- 
 ready endured their sentence, he expostulated and said, 
 "They have acknowledged that of which they were accused, 
 they have been sentenced to punishment and have borne 
 the suffering inflicted, why should they be punished again ? 
 the thunderbolt does not strike twice." It does not appear 
 that there is any change in the purpose of the supreme au- 
 thorities, as the following message or order is said to be read 
 every fortnight to the troops when assembled on parade at 
 the capital : 
 
 " If any baptize (viz., administer or receive baptism) I 
 will put them to death, saith Eanavalomanjaka; for they 
 change the prayers of the twelve kings. Therefore search
 
 CHAP. vi. CLAIMS OF THE CHRISTIANS TO SYMPATHY. 195 
 
 and spy, and if ye find any doing that, man or woman, take 
 them, that we may kill them ; for I and you will kill them 
 that do that, though they be half the people. For to change 
 what the ancestors have ordered and done, and to pray to 
 the ancestors of the foreigners, not to Andrianampoineme- 
 rina, and Lehidama, and the idols that sanctified the twelve 
 kings, and the twelve mountains that are worshiped ; who- 
 ever changes these observances, I make known to all peo- 
 ple, I will kill, saith Eanavalomanjaka." 
 
 The reference made to the usages ordained by their an- 
 cestors, and to the praying to the ancestors of the foreign- 
 ers, explains to a great extent the grounds on which the 
 abandonment of the religion of the country, and adopting 
 the Christian faith, are regarded by the Malagasy as crimes 
 of the greatest magnitude. Their own religious creeds 
 teach them to regard the spirits of the earliest ancestors of 
 their rulers as among the chief objects of religious homage, 
 and hence, also, a sort of sacredness is supposed to belong 
 to the reigning monarch as descended from their gods. In 
 most of the public speeches to which I listened the sacred- 
 ness of the queen's person was declared, and she was repre- 
 sented as exercising power over life and property by virtue 
 of such descent and supposed sacredness. Thus their ideas 
 of religion add a sort of sanctity to their loyalty. And as 
 they infer that the religion of Christian nations rests upon 
 a basis similar to their own, it is asserted, and probably be- 
 lieved by many, that the supreme objects of Christian wor- 
 ship were the ancestors of the present rulers of those na- 
 tions ; the converts to Christianity are therefore regarded as 
 guilty of the double crime of apostasy and treason ; and to 
 persuade their countrymen to believe in the Lord Jesus, to 
 obey His word, or to love Him, is regarded as alienating 
 the confidence and affection of the people from their lawful 
 rulers and transferring them to the ancestors of the rulers 
 of foreigners. Many of the people are probably too much
 
 19G VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. vi. 
 
 enlightened to believe that their early ancestors were any 
 thing more than men, but others believe what the support- 
 ers of idolatry teach, and use the popular delusion as a 
 ground of impeachment against the Christians. 
 
 The immediate future of Madagascar is known only to 
 the Almighty, whose attribute it is to behold the end from 
 the beginning ; but, whatever that future may be, there is in 
 the past much, very much, to ponder over most profoundly, 
 much, also, to enkindle earnest and hearty desires that a 
 happier day may soon dawn upon that important country 
 and its deeply-interesting inhabitants, and that the minds 
 of the rulers may be enlightened to see that Christianity af- 
 fords the surest foundation for the greatness and glory of 
 sovereigns as well as for the prosperity, loyalty, and happi- 
 ness of nations.
 
 CHAP. vn. JOURNEY FKOM TAMATAVE TO FOULE POINTE. 197 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 Journey from Tamatave to Foule Pointe. Native Gardens. Photography 
 in the Forest. Novel Aspects of the Vegetation. Native Lodgings. 
 Malagasy Travelers. Abundant and beautiful Orchidaceous Plants. 
 Angracum superbum. A. sesquipedale. Native Lizards and Birds. 
 Arrival at Foule Pointe. Native Accommodations and Hospitality. 
 Pleasant Intercourse with the People. Hospitality of the Eesidents. 
 Interview with the Governor. Brief Notice of Benyowsky. Return to 
 Tamatave. Last Night on Shore. Affectionate Interest of the Natives. 
 Early Morning Embarkation. Last View of the Land. Arrival at 
 Mauritius. Departure for the Cape of Good Hope. 
 
 AMONG the strangers who visited Tamatave during my 
 residence there, and with whom I held frequent intercourse, 
 were a number of persons from Mahavelona or Foule Pointe, 
 a port on the eastern coast, about forty -five miles to the 
 northward. I had heard repeatedly of the fine scenery in 
 the intervening region, as well as around the port itself, 
 and, being desirous of seeing it, as well as of visiting the 
 friends with whom I had become acquainted, I left Tama- 
 tave on the forenoon of the 4th of September, accompanied 
 by my tall friend from the capital, who had spent much 
 time with me at Tamatave, and whose wife's father was 
 chief, or governor, of the next port and district to the north- 
 ward of Foule Pointe. 
 
 An officer in the village, my friend in the green uniform, 
 had lent me a sort of palanquin-chair, of strong native man- 
 ufacture, resembling an ordinary arm-chair in form, only 
 larger, and having a foot-board suspended in front, and two 
 long poles fixed on each side like those of a sedan-chair, by 
 which it was carried on the shoulders of four men, two in 
 front and two behind. Seated in this chair, and thus mount-
 
 198 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. vn. 
 
 ed on the shoulders of the bearers, I passed through the vil- 
 lage. Two additional bearers were provided for the chair, 
 two others carried my camera and photographic apparatus, 
 another the camera-stand and a small stool, and the fourth 
 my carpet-bag, a tea-kettle, and some crockery. Among 
 the retinue of my friend was the bearer of rice, and of meat 
 purchased in the market that morning. As soon as we had 
 left the village the men set off at a short kind of trotting 
 pace, in which the bearers kept well together at the rate of 
 four or five miles an hour. They continued without stop- 
 ping for about three hours, when we reached Vohidotra, a 
 scattered sort of village on the northern side of a tolerably 
 broad piece of water having an outlet to the sea. 
 
 The morning had been fine, the sky partially covered 
 with clouds which tempered the heat. Altogether the jour- 
 ney was unusually pleasant. The verdure of the plain, and 
 the foliage of the trees, chiefly the pandanus, or vacoua, ap- 
 peared exceedingly agreeable and refreshing after the dry 
 and barren sand of Tamatave. At Vohidotra the men halt- 
 ed to rest and cook their rice, and, while they were thus 
 employed,! sallied forth t(>the adjacent woods to look for 
 plants. In the gardens attached to the cottages, where 
 French beans, garlic, and pumpkins were growing, I was 
 surprised to see beautiful little dwarf plants of the vinca in 
 full blossom, and the blue Ageratum Mexicanum, so care- 
 fully tended in our flower-borders, covering the ground and 
 the walks between the beds like a common weed. 
 
 After walking for some distance, and passing one or two 
 inclosed spots which I was afterward informed were burial- 
 places, I entered the wooded parts of the district, and soon 
 found such numbers of orchids, growing so luxuriantly, and 
 in such picturesque positions, some of them in full blossom, 
 and exhibiting, too, so many of their peculiarities of form 
 and habits of growth, that I hastened back to the halting- 
 place, and eagerly asked my friend how much longer the
 
 6TEICIINOB-TREE, WITH OECHIDS (\NGB.BCUM BUPEBBITM) GBOWTNG ON THE TEUNK ANT) BBAXCITES. 
 (CVCAB CIECKNALIS) IN TUB DISTANCE.
 
 CHAP. vii. LUXUKIANT VEGETATION. 201 
 
 men would remain before recommencing their journey. As 
 he said an hour or so, I induced one of them to accompany 
 me with the camera to the wood, and having selected a 
 couple of trees, partially covered with creepers, and bearing 
 on different parts of their trunks or branches beautiful 
 plants of Angrcccum superbum in bloom, and surrounded by 
 ferns, Alpinia nutans, and other species of tropical vegeta- 
 tion, I fixed the camera before first one and then another, 
 using waxed paper, which I had excited in the morning be- 
 fore setting out, and hoping by this means to secure a me- 
 morial of the beautiful natural objects grouped before me. 
 While the light was transferring the forms of the trees and 
 the flowers to the paper in the camera, I set off in another 
 direction, penetrating still farther into the wood, in search 
 of other and rarer plants, and found so many that, though 
 it was but the commencement of the journey, I could not 
 refrain from gathering a bundle to carry on to the place 
 where we expected to halt for the night. On returning, I 
 found the men who were my bearers gathered round the 
 camera ready to proceed ; and was perfectly relieved from 
 any apprehension about their having been overtasked, ei- 
 ther with the length of their journey or the weight of their 
 load, by perceiving one or two of them, tall, athletic, swarthy 
 fellows, standing on their heads, and amusing themselves 
 and their companions by kicking their heels up in the air. 
 After stopping altogether about two hours, we resumed 
 our journey. Our road, or, rather, narrow winding foot- 
 path, for no vehicles ever traveled along it, now turned to- 
 ward the mountains, and passed over a slightly-undulated 
 verdant country, generally covered with masses of shrubs, 
 or small trees. The bearers seemed invigorated with their 
 rest and refreshment, and trotted along apparently in cheer- 
 ful spirits. I noticed that whenever any one of the bearers 
 wished to ease his shoulder, he struck the pole with the 
 palm of his hand, producing a sort of hollow sound ; when
 
 202 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAI-. vn. 
 
 his companions each seized his pole, and, lifting it over his 
 head, brought it down upon the opposite shoulder. Some- 
 times all four of the bearers changed at the same time, but 
 more frequently only the two who were together, either in 
 front or behind. 
 
 Many new forms of vegetation presented themselves 
 through this day's journey. Among those bordering the 
 coast, the acacia, the casuarina, and the pandanus were 
 most abundant, with occasionally a group of sago-trees or a 
 solitary cocoanut towering above the rest. I had seen 
 nothing, either in Mauritius or Polynesia, resembling them 
 especially one kind seldom attaining above ten or twelve 
 feet in height, a kind of pandanus, having a number of 
 leaves in the centre of the crown, apparently glued or stuck 
 together at their extremities, giving to the centre or crown 
 a- singular form ; while the disentangled leaves that stretch- 
 ed out horizontally or hung down parallel with the stem 
 seemed very much like the leaves with which the Chinese 
 line their tea-chests. I could, however, only notice the pe- 
 culiarities of this tree as we passed along ; and I failed to 
 fulfill my intention of procuring seeds or leaves at some fu- 
 ture time. Another species of pandanus was to me equally 
 new and remarkable. The stem of this was straight as that 
 of a fir-tree, and the branches horizontal with feathery tips 
 of flag or short ribbon-formed leaves. The tree was fre- 
 quently forty or fifty feet high, crowned with an upright 
 plume, and at a distance might have been mistaken for a 
 larch, but for its stuT and formal growth. I did not see it 
 near the shore, but among the low wet places inland. I 
 had no opportunity of examining it minutely, but was told 
 it was indigenous : it is probably Pandanus muricatus, called 
 at Mauritius Vacoua en pyramids. 
 
 But the most remarkable objects on this day's journey 
 were the vast numbers of that splendid production of Mad- 
 agascar, the Urania speciosa, or Traveler's-tree. It is not
 
 CHAP. vii. CULINARY OPERATIONS. 203 
 
 easy to imagine, still less to describe, the appearance of a 
 somewhat distant and oval-shaped mountain crested along 
 its summit, as it appeared to us on one part of the way, by 
 these stately trees, looking like a long line of gigantic In- 
 dian sachems, with their helmets of radiated feathers shown 
 in strongly-marked outline against the western sky. 
 
 It was dark before we reached Eangazava, a small vil- 
 lage by the sea-side, where we halted for the night. One 
 room, about twenty or twenty-five feet square, the whole 
 inside of a native house, served the purposes of sitting-room, 
 sleeping-room, and kitchen. Here I developed the pictures 
 I had taken on my way, and found them* come out tolera- 
 bly well. In the mean time a fire was kindled between 
 stones fixed on a heap of sand, the edges of which were 
 kept up by pieces of wood. A large, shallow, round earth- 
 en pot was then put on to boil rice in, and a piece of beef, 
 which we had brought with us, spitted on a stick, was fixed 
 by the side of the fire to roast or broil. As soon as the rice 
 was cooked the tea-kettle was put on, and by the time it 
 boiled the meat was cooked. I was amused to see the in- 
 terest and aptitude with which my friend, a portly chief 
 more than six feet high, overlooked and directed the cook- 
 ing of the evening meal. 
 
 After supper the chief gave me a clean mat, and, taking 
 off my shoes and using my carpet-bag for a pillow, I lay 
 down to rest, and, though for a time the smoke affected my 
 eyes, I obtained a few hours' sleep. 
 
 By five o'clock the next morning we were stirring, and 
 on our journey again before six. Our road this morning 
 continued for the first eight or ten miles along the edge of 
 the sea. Traveling here appeared exceedingly fatiguing. 
 The men's feet sank deep into the sand at every step, ex- 
 cept when they walked close to the water, where the foot- 
 ing was firmer ; but here they were sometimes above their 
 knees in water before they could get out of the way when
 
 204: VISITS TO MADAGASCAR CHAP. vn. 
 
 the billows broke in foam and spray upon the rocky beach. 
 The rocks, in some places, seemed to be crystal or quartz ; 
 occasionally, also, there were fragments of coral. Numbers 
 of small crabs and other fish, apparently searching for food 
 along the edge of the sea, were startled into deeper water 
 by our approach. We saw also here and there a few na- 
 tives digging for a larger kind of crab in the sand along 
 the higher parts of the beach. About half past eight we 
 reached a broad stream, across which we were ferried in 
 canoes, and soon afterward arrived at Ifotsy, where we 
 stopped to take breakfast. 
 
 Besuming our journey, we crossed two rivers in the 
 course of the day, both deep ; over one of them, at Sakon- 
 dro, a rustic kind of bridge, skirted by trees, presented so 
 complete a picture of woodland and water, bank and bridge, 
 that I requested the men so to arrange their journey on 
 our return that we might stop at this place, intending, if 
 possible, to obtain a photographic view of the scene. The 
 other was of considerable width, in some parts so deep that 
 we could only cross it in canoes. Two or three houses 
 stood near the bank, where my bearers set me down, and 
 the master of one of them invited me to enter. I followed 
 him, and found several travelers either waiting to cross the 
 river or resting on their journey. 
 
 Canoes for ferrying passengers across the rivers appear 
 to be provided by the government or the chiefs of the dis- 
 trict. Once or twice we had to wait until parties who had 
 arrived at the water's edge before us had all been ferried 
 over, and travelers who arrived while we were passing had 
 to wait until we had crossed. With only one canoe it 
 sometimes required two or three trips to carry us all over, 
 and yet no backwardness was manifested by the ferrymen, 
 to whom the passengers generally gave a small quantity of 
 rice for their trouble. 
 
 Both on this and the previous day we passed many trav-
 
 CHAP. vii. MODES OF TKAVELING. 205 
 
 - 
 
 elers, though few journeyed singly. Mostly two or three, 
 and more frequently a large party, traveled in company. 
 The chiefs were carried by four men in open palanquins, in 
 which they sometimes reclined pretty nearly at full length. 
 A mother and her infant were in one of these palanquins, 
 attended by several females, who ran along by the side. 
 One or two travelers we passed in a sort of temporary lit- 
 ter, made by fastening a piece of rofia-cloth in the form of 
 a hammock to a single pole, carried on the shoulders of two 
 men, the chief sitting sideways in the hammock, and rest' 
 ing his arms on the pole to which the ends of the hammock 
 were fastened. Sometimes we passed what seemed to be a 
 whole family, comprising adults, children, and slaves. The 
 chief usually carried a spear or staff, or both. The bur- 
 dens, whether of matting, clothing, or provisions, carried 
 by the slaves, were not borne on the head, as is the uniform 
 practice of the Coolies or Creoles of Mauritius, but were 
 fastened at the back, and the children, when too young to 
 walk, were carried in the same manner. Few appeared to 
 be loiterers on the road, but all were passing along at a 
 tolerably quick pace. None of the parties were much en- 
 cumbered with personal luggage ; but the loads of rice, 
 and similar articles, carried by some of the slaves appeared 
 heavy. 
 
 Besides the Traveler's -tree, often the chief growth of 
 vast tracts of the country, I noticed another tree of large 
 and shining foliage, like that of the magnolia, and occasion- 
 ally a large-leaved betonica. The Calophyllum inophyllurn, 
 or other species of gum-tree, imparted a rich and varied 
 character to the scenery. Near the water, at two places 
 where we halted, I found the Hibiscus tiliaceus growing to a 
 great size, straggling over a considerable space, and cov- 
 ered with large yellow and claret-colored blossoms. The 
 only difference I could perceive between the specimens I 
 met with in this island and those with which I have been
 
 206 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. vii. 
 
 * 
 
 familiar in the South Seas, consisted in the Madagascar 
 plants exhibiting a more robust habit of growth and rath,- 
 er larger as well as more darkly-tinted flowers. In all 
 other respects the plants appeared identical. 
 
 Orchids were abundant, and often occupied positions in 
 which the growers of these plants in England would little 
 expect to find them, but in which they gave an indescrib- 
 able singularity and charm to the landscape. The limodo- 
 rums were numerous in parts of the road, and formed quite 
 a ball of interlaced roots at the base of the bulbs. A small 
 species, resembling in habit and growth the Camarotus pur- 
 purea, but quite unknown to me, and bearing a vast profu- 
 sion of white and sulphur-tinted flowers, often enlivened 
 the sides of the road along which we passed. But the an- 
 grsecums, both A. superbum and A. sesquipedale, were the 
 most abundant and beautiful. I noticed that they grew 
 most plentifully on trees of thinnest foliage, and that the 
 A. sesquipedale was seldom, if ever, seen on the ground, but 
 grew high up among the branches, often throwing out long 
 straggling stems terminating in a few small and often appar- 
 ently shriveled leaves. The roots also partook of the* same 
 habit. They were seldom branched or spreading, but long, 
 tough, and single, sometimes running down the branch or 
 trunk of a tree, between the fissures in the rough bark, to 
 the length of twelve or fifteen feet ; and so tough and tena- 
 cious that it required considerable force to detach or break 
 them. Many of them were in flower ; and, notwithstand- 
 ing the small, shriveled appearance of the leaves, the flow- 
 ers were large and the yellow color strongly marked. On 
 more than one occasion I saw a splendid Angrcecum sesqui- 
 pedale growing on the trunk of a decaying or fallen tree, as 
 shown in the accompanying engraving, and sending its 
 tough roots down the trunk to the moist parts of the vege- 
 tation on the ground. I found one decayed tree lying on 
 the ground almost overgrown with grass and ferns, on the
 
 HABITS OF THE ANGR^ECUM. 
 
 207 
 
 rotten trunk of which, the A. sesquipedale was growing most 
 luxuriantly. The roots which had penetrated the soft 
 trunk of this dead tree were white and fleshy, while the 
 leaves were longer and comparatively soft and green. 
 There were neither flowers nor flower-stalks on any of the 
 plants growing in the rich vegetable mould furnished by 
 this old dead tree. 
 
 AXURCUM SESQUIPEDALE AND NATIVE FERNS. 
 
 The habits of the superbum were quite different. Of 
 these the fleshy roots formed a sort of net- work at the base 
 of the bulb. During the journey I occasionally noticed 
 both kinds growing not only on the branches of living 
 trees but very often high up on the bare barked trunks of 
 the dead trees. Sometimes, in the angle formed by the
 
 208 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. vn. 
 
 junction of an arm with, the trunk of a large naked tree, 
 apparently without a fragment of bark adhering to the 
 trunk, a bunch of moss, or a cluster of orchids, or both 
 mingled together, would be growing apparently with great 
 vigor, and often in full flower. More than one tall bare 
 trunk, twelve or eighteen inches in diameter and thirty 
 feet high, stood surmounted, or surrounded near its sum- 
 mit, by a cluster of angraecums, with their long, sword- 
 shaped, fleshy leaves ; or, what was more beautiful still, a 
 fine specimen of some species of bird's-nest fern. The con- 
 trast between the white, shining, barkless trunk and these 
 verdant clusters of plants on the top was sometimes very 
 striking; especially as the orchids were often in flower, 
 and by their growth altogether suggested the idea that by 
 the decay of their own roots a receptacle was formed for 
 the moisture or the rain by which the plant was nourished. 
 This combination of life and death, growth and decay, pre- 
 sented one of the most singular among the many, to me, 
 new and curious aspects of nature which my journey af- 
 forded. 
 
 I saw few animals except lizards, of which there were 
 great numbers among the stones and trees, some of the 
 richest emerald green, others speckled or marked in lines, 
 but the greatest portion were of a lightish brown. Birds 
 were comparatively numerous, and there were some of gay 
 and attractive plumagel The largest was a compact-shaped, 
 lively bird, apparently the black-throated crow shrike. On 
 the trunks of the trees I observed some resembling wood- 
 peckers ; also a handsome bird about the size of a jay, re- 
 sembling some kinds of the butcher-bird ; its plumage red, 
 brown, and yellow. Far from being shy or disturbed by our 
 approach, they seemed rather to welcome us ; as I noticed 
 that one or two about the size of a thrush, with green and 
 white feathers, kept for a long time flying in the line of 
 our progress, alighting on a bush by the side of our path,
 
 CHAP. vn. THE VILLAGE OF FOULE POINTS. 209 
 
 and, when we reached the spot, then flying on farther in 
 advance. One kind, which the natives called Eailovi, par- 
 ticularly attracted my notice. It was rather larger than a 
 blackbird and much longer in the neck and tail ; the plum- 
 age of a glossy purplish black ; the feathers of the tail 
 deeply indented in the middle, and, just above where the 
 beak was united to the head, two curved feathers, an inch 
 long, arose, one on each side, giving the bird a singular but 
 not ungraceful appearance. Occasionally we saw flocks of 
 what appeared to be paroquets; but these did not come 
 very near us. 
 
 A little before sunset, on the second day of our journey, 
 I reached the broad plain on which the village of Foule 
 Pointe is situated, and here I halted until my friend, who 
 had traveled more slowly than my bearers, arrived. The 
 high wooded country from which we emerged afforded a 
 good view of the settlement, which, in extent of land and 
 eligibility of situation, appeared greatly superior to Tama- 
 tave. On the southern side of the buildings and inclosures 
 a line of fine stately mango-trees, clothed at this time of 
 the year with dense dark foliage, gave quite a baronial as- 
 pect to the approach in that direction. The houses of the 
 village, which differ little from those of Tamatave, spread 
 along the southeastern side of the bay, near the southern 
 extremity of which two vessels from Mauritius were per- 
 forming quarantine. One or two streams intersected the 
 plain, which is more than a mile across ; and in several di- 
 rections slaves with bundles of fire-wood, or laborers re- 
 turning from the fields, were wending their way along the 
 different paths which led to their places of abode. 
 
 When my companion arrived, we proceeded to the vil- 
 lage, and, passing between the truly magnificent line of 
 trees, entered the court-yard of my friend, who was an offi- 
 cer in the place. Here I was preparing to alight, but, be- 
 fore being aware, was carried quite into the house, where I 
 

 
 210 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR CHAP. vn. 
 
 was cordially welcomed. One of my attendants was com- 
 pletely loaded with the specimens of plants which I had 
 gathered during the journey, and which I now deposited 
 in one of the large trees for security. The house was well 
 built with native materials. It contained two good rooms, 
 boarded floor, door, and windows with shutters, but no glass. 
 It had a large kind of kitchen with fire-place outside, and 
 also a fire-place in the smaller or inner room, which seem- 
 ed to be a sort of store-room and cooking-place, as well as 
 sleeping-room. In one corner was a small bed on a frame 
 like a stretcher. Around the head of the bed, fire-arms, 
 swords, and warlike accoutrements were placed. On one 
 side of the room stood some boxes, on the other was the 
 fire-place, and in other parts were bags of rice or millet, bas- 
 kets of beans, with various tools, agricultural implements, 
 and other valuable stores. The corner containing the bed 
 was pointed out as my quarters, and I took possession by 
 placing there my carpet-bag and photographic apparatus. 
 Many of the friends of my host, and others whom I had 
 seen at.Tamatave, soon came in with repeated expressions 
 of welcome, and, after a good wash and a hearty supper, we 
 spent the time very agreeably together, observing usages 
 which would not have been neglected at home. One of 
 those present had spent some time at Mauritius, and knew 
 a little English ; two others spoke French ; so that we cquld 
 communicate with each other much better than was some- 
 tunes the case. My inquiries related to their past and pres- 
 ent circumstances, and the promptitude and cheerfulness of 
 their replies left me no reason to fear that my inquiries 
 were unwelcome. They, on the other hand, had many deep- 
 ly-interesting questions to ask, more particularly about the 
 religious belief and practices in England, which I endeavor- 
 ed to answer to the best of my ability ; and thus, notwith- 
 standing the fatigue of the day, so gratifying and joyous 
 was the circumstance of our meeting together, that it was 
 long past midnight before we retired to rest.
 
 CHAP. vii. NOTICE OF BAKON BENYOWSKY. 211 
 
 In subsequently recurring to the long evening thus pleas- 
 antly passed, I was naturally led to reflect on the deep and 
 peculiar sympathy which we all seemed to feel. We were 
 inhabitants of different hemispheres, and belonged to com- 
 munities widely separated from each other by their relative 
 civilization and social position; yet we met and conferred 
 together with a degree of confidence, satisfaction, and even 
 enjoyment, as entire and sincere as if we had been long 
 united in the closest human fellowship ; and we felt that we 
 cherished aspirations as identical as if we were ultimately 
 to be gathered into one common home. We know that 
 sympathy so entire and uniform under all the diversities of 
 external condition, and so widely diffused, can spring from 
 only one source, and is only perpetuated by one divine in- 
 fluence ; and it is a source of unspeakable pleasure to feel 
 that it not only brings with it a present enjoyment, but 
 will ultimately unite the estranged and separated members 
 of the human family in one hallowed bond of brotherhood 
 and peace. 
 
 This was one of the ports by which Eadama, after the 
 abolition of the slave-trade, endeavored to connect the for- 
 eign commerce of the country with his capital, and for this 
 purpose he sent, in 1823, two thousand persons to Foule 
 Pointe to form an agricultural and commercial settlement, 
 under Eafaralahy, an enlightened and energetic prince, who 
 spent some time at Mauritius, and whose administration was 
 eulogized by Sir E. Farquhar, when he visited the port. 
 
 Foule Pointe has also been the scene of some remarkable 
 events in the earlier history of the people. It was one of 
 the outlying factories of the French establishment formed 
 at Antongil Bay, in 1774, by the Baron Benyowsky. The 
 career of this remarkable man was characterized by events 
 the most startling and extraordinary ; and that the same in- 
 dividual should be at one time the prisoner of Eussia in Si- 
 beria, and then a trader in China that he should afterward
 
 212 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. vn. 
 
 be acknowledged as a lineally-descended sovereign in Mad- 
 agascar, and be sent by authorities in that island to treat 
 for alliances with the sovereigns of Europe, and should 
 finally be shot as a rebel by the French, seems more like 
 romance than reality ; yet such were some of the striking 
 contrasts of his life. Descended from Polish ancestors, but 
 born in Hungary, he served as a general in the armies of 
 Eussia till after the death of the King of Poland in 1765, 
 when he joined the army in Cracow, where he was captured 
 by the Russians and banished to Siberia. Here he induced 
 a number of others to join in an attempt to escape, in 
 which he succeeded; attacked Kamtschatka, seized three 
 Eussian vessels with their cargoes, dismasted the rest, and 
 sailed with his companions to China, where he sold his ves- 
 sels and cargoes. From Macao he proceeded in French 
 trading- vessels to Mauritius, then occupied by the French, 
 where his attention was directed to Madagascar. Sailing 
 from Mauritius to France, he was appointed, some time aft- 
 er his arrival, to undertake the formation of a French estab- 
 lishment in Madagascar. A corps entitled the Volunteers 
 of Benyowsky was enrolled, officers appointed, and he sail- 
 ed to Mauritius. The authorities there were opposed to the 
 projected establishment, and, as he was dependent on them 
 for supplies, he experienced considerable disappointment 
 and delay. At length he reached Madagascar, where he 
 met with a friendly reception from the chiefs, whom he in- 
 formed that the King of France had decided on forming an 
 establishment in their country to defend them from their 
 enemies, and to open warehouses for trade. He fixed his 
 chief settlement at Antongil Bay, using Foule Pointe as one 
 of his outstations or factories. The military force he had 
 brought, the trade he offered, together with the industry, 
 ability, and force of character which he manifested, secured 
 him such influence as to induce the chiefs in that part of the 
 island to enter into alliance with him, and inspired hopes
 
 CHAP. vn. NOTICE OF BARON BENYOWSKY. 213 
 
 of ultimate success ; but the representations of the author- 
 ities of Mauritius induced the French government to send 
 out a commission of inquiry, and, after they had completed 
 their task, Benyowsky resigned his commission and retired 
 from the settlement and the service of France. 
 
 Before this time a report had been circulated by an old 
 female slave from Mauritius that Benyowsky was the son 
 of a sovereign of that part of the country, who had in for- 
 mer times been carried thither. The chiefs and people pre- 
 tended to believe this report, and Benyowsky does not ap- 
 pear to have undeceived them. Under this impression they 
 requested him to assume the office and duties of their ruler. 
 Ho had previously intimated his willingness to accede to 
 their wishes, and, being now free from his engagement with 
 the French, he was shortly afterward, in a large public as- 
 sembly of chiefs and people, and amid much form and cer- 
 emony, proclaimed sovereign of the tribes inhabiting Maha- 
 velona and the adjacent country, and received their oath of 
 allegiance. On the evening of the same day, three hundred 
 females came by moonlight to Madame Benyowsky to take 
 the oath of allegiance to her as their queen. 
 
 The next day the new sovereign held his first kabary or 
 grand assembly, and presented the constitution and form of 
 government, which they adopted. Benyowsky afterward 
 proceeded to Europe, with authority from the people of Ma- 
 havelona and the adjacent country to treat with the King 
 of France or any other nation, to form commercial and 
 friendly alliances. Failing in these objects with the French, 
 he applied to the Imperial government, and afterward to 
 the English, but, being unsuccessful, he purchased a ship, 
 sailed to North America with a cargo for Madagascar, and 
 having there obtained a second vessel he proceeded to Mad- 
 agascar. On reaching the neighborhood of Antongil Bay 
 he seized a store-house belonging to the French, and was 
 only deterred from attempting to take the factory at Foule
 
 2H VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. vn. 
 
 Pointe by the presence of a French vessel of war. As soon 
 as these proceedings became known at Mauritius a frigate 
 with sixty men was sent against him. On the arrival of 
 the ship his fort was attacked, and he was killed by the fire 
 of the advancing troops in 1786, twelve years after his first 
 arrival in the island. 
 
 The slave-trade and the wars which have subsequently 
 desolated this part of Madagascar have almost annihilated 
 the tribes with whom Benyowsky was associated, and I 
 heard of no traditions of him among the present inhabit- 
 ants. Very different estimates have been formed of the 
 character and proceedings of this extraordinary man. The 
 record he has left of his own purposes and plans lead to 
 the inference that his views were in advance of the age; 
 and, without attempting to justify his slave -dealing, his 
 conniving at the unfounded report of his origin, or other 
 parts of his proceedings, his treatment of the Malagasy was 
 more enlightened and just than that of most Europeans 
 who had visited their shores, while his attempts to abolish 
 infant-murder and introduce other ameliorations of social 
 life indicate the exercise of humane feelings. I had, soon 
 after my visit to Foule Pointe, an opportunity of inspecting 
 several documents in his own handwriting, some of which 
 contain gratifying evidence of a benevolent disposition. 
 
 "While staying at this place I walked over some exceed- 
 ingly well-stocked and cultivated gardens belonging to the 
 gentleman at whose house I had been entertained. Many 
 useful European vegetables were growing here remarkably 
 well, in a soil light, rich, and well watered. The low level 
 flat on which the settlement stands, the dampness of the 
 ground, and the abundance of water, though favorable to 
 the growth of garden and other produce, seemed likely to 
 render Foule Pointe less healthy than the comparatively 
 dry situation of Tamatave. The vegetation around the 
 bay was extremely luxuriant, and I do not remember ever
 
 CHAP. vn. INTERVIEW WITH THE GOVERNOR. 215 
 
 having seen finer cocoanut-trees than those growing near 
 the water on the southern side. Some small tame animals 
 with ringed tails, like the raccoon, and some black and white 
 lemurs, were the only animals of any considerable size 
 which I saw here ; but I noticed some large and very beau- 
 tiful lizards, dark green and yellow, of greater size and 
 more plump than any I had before seen either in Polyne- 
 sia, Mauritius, or in Madagascar. 
 
 On the forenoon of this day I met a chief from the capi- 
 tal who spoke French and a little English. He was a 
 young man of considerable intelligence, and when some of 
 my friends showed him the likenesses which had been 
 taken at Tamatave he expressed a great desire to have his 
 own. I told him I had no proper materials, but would en- 
 deavor to show him the process by which it was done. He 
 repeated his wish to have his likeness, and sent a slave for 
 his lamba, as he said he wished to be taken in the costume 
 of his country. As soon, however, as the camera had been 
 taken to the appointed place, the sound of music a drum 
 and clarionet announced the approach of the governor, 
 who passed by in his palanquin, attended by one officer on 
 horseback and a number on foot, surrounded and followed 
 by a sort of body-guard, wearing the native white salaka or 
 cloth round the loins, over which their cartouche-box was 
 fastened by a black belt, and each armed with a musket or 
 spear. 
 
 On my entering the house where the governor had 
 alighted, he very cordially welcomed me in English, which 
 I supposed he had learned while on board one of the En- 
 glish ships of war, in which he with others had been placed 
 by Eadama. A sort of proces verbal respecting the wreck 
 of the Eureka, which the captain wished to have authenti- 
 cated by his signature, in order to claim the insurance on 
 the vessel, occupied some considerable time; after which 
 the governor came and examined with much interest the
 
 216 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. vn. 
 
 camera, which was standing in the yard. The distinct defin- 
 ite figure of one of his attendants, as shown on the ground 
 glass, seemed greatly to excite his curiosity, and he said, if 
 I could stay two or three days he should like to have his 
 own portrait. I tried with the chief, whose dress in the 
 mean time had been brought, but the sun was too far ad- 
 vanced ; and the prince appeared the better reconciled to 
 his disappointment from a hope which he expressed of vis- 
 iting Tamatave before I left the island. 
 
 The following day being rainy, I was confined most of 
 the time to the house, where, notwithstanding the unfavor- 
 able weather, I saw many of the natives. Several of those 
 who had spent the evenings with me brought small pres- 
 ents, such as a basket of eggs, a fowl, or some neatly-made 
 little native baskets, with other similar tokens of good- will. 
 Toward evening the rain abated, and I walked out in com- 
 pany with my friends along the sea-shore, to the spot where 
 the wreck had taken place. On my return the chief joined 
 us, and we had a most deeply interesting conversation. 
 The remarks of my friends during our walk, when they 
 spoke of the vastness and wonders of the deep, or the be- 
 neficence manifested in the works of the creation, indicated 
 a degree of reflection and religious feeling which to me was 
 exceedingly gratifying. The evening was passed pleasant- 
 ly in company with the friendly natives of the place, and I 
 arranged for my departure at a very early hour in the morn- 
 ing, hoping by additional bearers to reach Tamatave dur- 
 ing the night. 
 
 On the 9th of September we were stirring while it was 
 yet dark, and the young chief, accompanied by one of his 
 attendants, came at an early hour to see me again. He 
 said he had not been able to sleep all night, and we con- 
 tinued talking until the bearers were all gathered at the 
 door, when, taking leave of him and the many friends who 
 had come to bid me farewell, I set off before seven o'clock,
 
 CHAP. viz. EETUKN TO TAMATAVE. 217 
 
 accompanied by my host, and expecting to be followed in a 
 day or two by the tall friend who had been my companion 
 from Tamatave. 
 
 The air was fresh and cool after the rain, and the morn- 
 ing unusually pleasant. We passed Sakondro, the pictur- 
 esque scene of which I had intended to take a view, but, 
 having been detained by the rain a day longer than I had 
 expected, we could spare no time there. By half past ten 
 we reached Ifotsy, where we halted for breakfast. At this 
 place we were overtaken by the mate of the wrecked ves- 
 sel, who was proceeding to Tamatave in the hope of ob- 
 taining a passage to Mauritius. After resting about two 
 hours we resumed our journey through the same delightful 
 country, and between five and six reached Ivoidotra, fif- 
 teen miles from Tamatave. As the officers of this place 
 objected to our proceeding farther until the next morning, 
 I set o"ut to look for plants, and before dark found a num- 
 ber of good specimens, with which I returned to my lodg- 
 ings about dusk. I ultimately succeeded in adding some 
 of the plants obtained in this remote region to my own col- 
 lection at home, and one, a fine Angrcecum superbum, which 
 I recently exchanged for a plant from India with a nursery- 
 man near London, bore during the present spring a number 
 of large pure white flowers, which, I have since been in- 
 formed, were selected on account of their rarity and beauty 
 to form part of the bridal bouquet on the occasion of the 
 recent nuptials of the Prince of Prussia with the Princess 
 Eoyal of England an honor which few could have sup- 
 posed a plant originally growing in a Malagasy wilderness 
 ever would attain. 
 
 After supper I lay down on a mat to rest until about 
 four in the morning, when we arose for the Malagasy, 
 like all inhabitants of warm climates, are early risers and 
 by half past five we again set out upon our journey. In 
 three hours more I was set down at the door of my house
 
 218 VISITS TO MADAGASCAE. CHAP. vn. 
 
 at Tamatave, grateful for the safety I had experienced and 
 for the pleasure the journey had afforded. 
 
 On inquiring soon afterward of the owner of the vessel 
 by which I purposed to return to Mauritius, when it would 
 be likely to sail, I was informed that the period of quaran- 
 tine on account of the cholera had been shortened, and that 
 the ship would sail in two days. 
 
 On the second day after receiving this intelligence, my 
 luggage and plants were all conveyed on board the vessel, 
 and, having taken leave of my friends and received much 
 kindness from the people, I proceeded to the ship early on 
 the morning of the 13th of September. When I reached 
 the Castro for that was the name of the vessel the cap- 
 tain informed me that he should not put to sea until day- 
 light the next morning. I therefore gladly returned to the 
 shore to spend another quiet day among the people. 
 
 In the afternoon of this day, my tall friend whom I had 
 left at Mahavelona arrived, having been informed by a mes- 
 senger of my expected departure. He, with a number of 
 others, assembled at my house in the evening, and we pass- 
 ed the time together under a deep impression of the improb- 
 ability of our ever meeting again in the present life. At a 
 late 'hour four of the company sent for their mats, and 
 spread them on the floor of my room, while a neighboring 
 chie whom I had known in England, sent his wife and two 
 slaves over to my house with various articles of bedding 
 for me during the night, as he knew that my own were all 
 on board. Shortly after midnight my friends lay down on 
 the floor, and I stretched myself on my bed, telling them to 
 wake me at four in the morning. They still continued talk- 
 ing, however, and in their anxiety about the time disturbed 
 me more than once. About four we arose, and after spend- 
 ing a short time together in that communion of feeling 
 which had formed the basis of our intercourse, and receiv- 
 ing from my friends the latest expression of their affection-
 
 CHAP. vii. MADAGASCAR FROM THE SEA. 219 
 
 ate feeling, and the kind wishes which they had written 
 down for me on the margin of a piece of newspaper after I 
 had lain down to rest, we set out by the starlight of early 
 morning toward the beach. The friendly chief who had sent 
 me my bed for the night I found waiting under his veranda. 
 He told me a canoe was ready for me on the shore, and he 
 then bade me farewell. Before we were well out of his 
 compound a man came to say that the ship was getting un- 
 der way. "We hastened on ; the moon was shining bright- 
 ly, and only a faint line of light indicated the approach of 
 the dawn. When at the water's edge I took a hurried 
 leave of my friends, and stepping into the little light canoe 
 was soon on my way to the ship. Hats and hands were 
 waved as long as they could be seen, but I was soon unable 
 to distinguish any thing beyond the white lambas covering 
 the figures still standing on the beach. 
 
 On reaching the Castro I found the anchor nearly up. 
 The wind was fair, so that before six we were out of the 
 harbor, the white surf rolling on the reefs behind us, and a 
 light breeze from the land wafting us over the ocean. From 
 the poop of our vessel I stood and gazed with strongly-ex- 
 cited feelings on the peopled shore, where the friends I had 
 left still lingered, and between whom, in their comparative- 
 ly isolated solitude, and the deeply -interested friends in my 
 own remote native land I had been as the wire of the tele- 
 graph, the medium of communicating thoughts and wishes 
 of hallowed sympathy and kindness ; and this, without ref- 
 erence to other advantages that may result from my visit, I 
 felt to be a more than ample compensation for any trifling 
 inconvenience the voyage had occasioned. I had often be- 
 fore, especially while performing quarantine, gazed on the 
 wooded shores of Madagascar, but they had never looked 
 more beautiful than on this morning, as the sun rose from 
 a cloudless horizon, burnishing with his beams range after 
 range of the long flat-topped or oval-shaped mountains that
 
 220 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP, vn. 
 
 stretched far away toward the interior. The summits and 
 the ridges of these mountains reflected from their clearly- 
 defined outlines the rapidly -increasing light, while the in- 
 tervening valleys were filled with white clouds or mists, 
 those nearest the shore occasionally exhibiting the sharp 
 clear marking of the tops of the trees above the gradually- 
 dissipating vapors, while their lower portions were entirely 
 concealed. 
 
 It was long before I left my post of observation, but when 
 at last I entered my cabin I found that a tolerably good ar- 
 rangement of my luggage had been made. One or two 
 bales of orchids, too large to be got into any box or basket, 
 had been fixed under my bed for greater security, while 
 boxes and baskets were piled all around, almost up to the 
 ceiling, so as only to leave me room enough to get into my 
 berth. I found my servant overwhelmed with as many 
 cares as if he had been a collector for the Zoological Society, 
 for he had brought on board a large monkey, a ring-tailed 
 squirrel, a large parrot or cockatoo, with a parrot of smaller 
 size, three or four partridges, a couple of the native guinea- 
 fowl, besides other curiosities for his friends at Mauritius. 
 The cabin of the vessel was large, and would have been 
 airy, but all except the centre occupied by the table was 
 filled with trusses of hay, over which we crept to our berths, 
 and which served us for seats at our meals. This hay was 
 part of the provender for the cattle, of which we had a hund- 
 red and thirty large fat animals on board : sixty-five in the 
 hold, and the same number on deck. Our captain was 
 obliging, the wind fair though light, and we reached Mau- 
 ritius in the short space of seven days. 
 
 As we approached the shore, the summits of the Peter 
 Both, the Pouce, and other mountains which I had photo- 
 graphed more than once, looked very familiar. On the 30th 
 of September we entered the harbor of Port Louis, having 
 been favored with a smooth, pleasant, and unusually quick
 
 CHAP. vii. AT TABLE BAY. 221 
 
 passage. One of the native teachers came on board our 
 vessel, and on the beach I was cordially welcomed by M. 
 Le Bran, who kindly invited me to his house. Here, while 
 renewing my intercourse with his family, I was deeply af- 
 fected by the mournful accounts I received of the fearful 
 devastations of the cholera, from which the island was even 
 then scarcely free. During the day I called on some of my 
 remaining friends, several of whom I found ill, not having 
 recovered from the anxiety and depression they had suffer- 
 ed during the prevalence of the disease, and some of them 
 had themselves been more or less affected. I felt an inde- 
 scribable sadness as I went from one house to another. The 
 place seemed no longer the same, death had made so many 
 fearful chasms. My meeting with the survivors of some of 
 my most valued friends, Mr. Kelsey's family in particular, 
 was to me peculiarly sorrowful, especially the meeting with 
 his daughter, who had always been a member of the happy 
 family circle to which I had so often been admitted. 
 
 During my short stay in Mauritius several opportunities 
 occurred for receiving communications from Madagascar, 
 but no tidings arrived of any change in the views of the 
 government or the progress of public events in that coun- 
 try. In the month of November, having received letters 
 from England which rendered it desirable to direct my 
 course to the Cape of Good Hope, I immediately prepared 
 for departure, and on the 20th of December sailed from Port 
 Louis in the Annie, a small brig of about one hundred and 
 twenty tons' burden, bound for Table Bay, which I reached 
 in safety two-and-twenty days after leaving Mauritius.
 
 2-2-2 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CIIAT. vni. 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 COLONY AT THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 
 
 Visit to the Missionary Settlements in the Cape Colony. Journey to Paarl. 
 African Omnibuses. Driving ten in hand. Intercourse with an aged 
 Missionary. Departure from Cape Town. Accident on the Road. 
 Aspect of the Country. Variety and Abundance of Flowers and Fruits. 
 Zurbraak. An African Congregation. The Montague Pass. Os- 
 triches. Extent and Beauty of the Cango Caverns. Hospitality of a 
 Negro Woman. Matzie's Riviere. Settlement of African Christians. 
 Spirited Conduct of the People of Oudshorn. Journey across the Desert. 
 Graaf Reynet. Fruits of Frugality and Industry. Flight of Locusts. 
 Large Herds of Springboks. Kindness of Mr. Gilfillan, Wonder Hill. 
 Encampment on the Banks of the Orange River. Subsidence of the 
 Waters. Journey to Philipolis. Sunday with the Griquas. State and 
 Prospects of the People. Hospitality of the Boers. Sheep-shearing in 
 South Africa. Cradock. Disease among the Cattle. Orange Grove. 
 Venomous Reptiles. Anecdotes of Caffres. Visit to Mr. Hart at Glen 
 Avon. 
 
 Ox proceeding to the residence of Mr. Thompson, the 
 agent of the London Missionary Society in Cape Town, I 
 found letters from England urgently requesting me to visit 
 the several stations of the Society in the colony, and, Mr. 
 Thompson having proposed to accompany me, \ve imme- 
 diately commenced the necessary preparations for our jour- 
 ney. 
 
 In the mean time I paid a visit to Paarl, a station about 
 thirty-five miles from Cape Town, and lying rather out of 
 the line of our route. I set out in an omnibus drawn the 
 chief part of the way by ten horses two abreast. The road 
 lay across a wide sandy plain called the Cape Flats. I had 
 long been familiar with Cape heaths and mesembryanthe- 
 mums, but the vast numbers of the latter growing in the
 
 CHAP. vin. AN AGED MISSIONARY. 223 
 
 dry white sand in every direction, and the miles and miles 
 of beautiful heaths, were to me a new and most pleasing 
 spectacle. One species, apparently the elegantissima, a tall 
 straggling plant with a bunch of bright scarlet trumpet- 
 shaped flowers near the termination of its long slender 
 branches, was strikingly conspicuous above the rest. 
 
 As we approached to Paarl the road was bordered with 
 verdant fir-trees and oak, and much of the neighboring land 
 appeared to be under cultivation. Paarl is in the midst of 
 a wine country, and the white-walled houses of the farmers 
 presented a novel and agreeable spectacle, being generally 
 situated in the midst of their vineyards, which are fenced 
 with walls of turf frequently planted with a broad-leaved 
 brier bearing a large single white flower. The town ap- 
 peared to me almost Dutch. A sort of raised terrace, call- 
 ed a " stoup," extends along the whole front of the houses. 
 Here parties of ladies were sitting, some reading, others 
 working or chatting with their companions, and all appar- 
 ently enjoying the cool of the evening. Proceeding to the 
 dwelling of Mr. Barker, I found him a blind and aged man, 
 sitting outside his door talking with some of the people. 
 In very early life we had been acquainted in England, but 
 he had now been more than forty years in Africa, and we 
 had only met once for a few hours on my previous visit to 
 the Cape. We had passed through widely different scenes 
 during the long interval of separation, and our unexpected 
 meeting here led to retrospects of the past mutually inter- 
 esting and deeply affecting to us both. 
 
 While sitting in Mr. Barker's house in the evening I 
 heard the sound of singing in the adjacent school-room, 
 and went over to listen to the exercises of a singing-class 
 taught by one of Mr. Barker's daughters. The pupils were 
 all Africans, and I was much pleased with the excellent 
 voices of many of the young people. Here I also met with 
 Mr. James Eead, whom I had known in England, and who
 
 224 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. vm. 
 
 had been discharging the duties of the pastor in the absence 
 of Mr. Barker, his wife's father, who had been to the Cape 
 in the hope of receiving benefit to his sight. 
 
 The abundance of fruit upon our breakfast- table the fol- 
 lowing morning was to me an agreeable novelty. The 
 peaches, figs, mulberries, and grapes were exceedingly fine, 
 though the latter were scarcely ripe. Mr. Barker and I 
 passed the greater part of the day under a large apricot- 
 tree in the orchard at the back of his house, conversing 
 nearly the whole time on missionary affairs connected with 
 the station. 
 
 I was stirring by daybreak the next morning, and by 
 five was again seated on the omnibus, returning to Cape 
 Town as fast as ten horses could convey us. The box was 
 occupied by two drivers, both men of color. One of them 
 held the reins, ten in hand, and the other plied the whip, 
 touching up the leaders, when necessary, with perfect ease 
 and precision. 
 
 In order to accomplish the long journey before me as 
 quickly as possible, horses had been selected instead of 
 oxen, and, late in the afternoon of the 23d of January, Mr. 
 Thompson and I left Cape Town in a covered cart drawn 
 by four horses. "We had scarcely proceeded more than 
 eight miles when our leaders, taking fright at a wagon, 
 started off the road, and our cart was in an instant over- 
 turned into a sort of pit from which sand had been dug for 
 repairing the road. I was a good deal bruised by the fall, 
 and we went on more slowly until about midnight, when 
 we reached Somerset or Hottentot's Holland. Here we 
 stopped at a hotel kept by an Englishman, of whom we 
 obtained a bed but no refreshment. Early the next morn- 
 ing we resumed our journey, and soon reached the com- 
 mencement of the Sir Lowry Pass. As we advanced to- 
 ward the summit I was delighted with the new kinds of 
 flowers which appeared by the sides of the road, especially
 
 CHAP. vm. ABUNDANT FRUIT. 225 
 
 the esculent and amaranthine species. The rocky piles of 
 the mountain's summit towered high above us, while white 
 clouds, clearly denned, concealed all the valley below, be- 
 yond which the waters of the ocean faintly reflected the 
 rays of the morning sun. In one part of our journey we 
 saw numbers of small tortoises ; at another place partridges 
 ran along the road for a considerable distance before us ; 
 but the great variety of plants, especially bulbs, gladiolus, 
 or Watsonia, stretching along for miles on either side, were 
 particularly attractive. 
 
 On the second night, when we stopped at a farm-house, 
 I walked into the garden or orchard, and was truly aston- 
 ished at the abundance of the produce. The fig-trees were 
 covered with large well-formed fruit, apples were equally 
 abundant, but the pear-trees were literally loaded, and the 
 branches of the peach-trees hung straight down from the 
 weight of the fruit, which studded the boughs as thickly as 
 gooseberries hang on their bushes in England. The peach- 
 trees were not trained against any railing or other support, 
 but were growing as standards. Some of the fruit-trees 
 appeared not to have had the least pruning, but were 
 growing in all the rank luxuriance of nature. The fruit 
 was small, and, as compared with the same kinds in En- 
 gland, rather woolly and insipid. The vegetables in the 
 same garden comprised maize, French beans, carrots, beet, 
 cucumbers, and pumpkins. Among the flowers were the 
 common monthly rose, the larkspur, the old-fashioned pur- 
 ple .stock, Valeria, and some curious cactuses. 
 
 On the following morning we resumed our journey, and 
 in the afternoon reached the missionary station of Zurbraak, 
 having traveled, since leaving Cape Town, 175 miles in less 
 than four days. Zurbraak is situated in a somewhat con- 
 tracted valley, and occupies the sides of a small river, from 
 which a portion of the land is irrigated. There are about 
 1600 people connected with this station, but many were 
 
 P
 
 226 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. vm. 
 
 absent in service or at work in Swellendum and the neigh- 
 borhood. Mr. Helm, the resident missionary, received us 
 kindly, and the next morning I attended public worship in 
 the chapel, a good substantial building. About 500 persons 
 were present, all persons of color, and many of them Hot- 
 tentots. All were clothed in European dresses, the women 
 wearing either a loose cotton bonnet or a handkerchief on 
 their heads. This was the first African congregation I had 
 seen, and I was struck with the light color and peculiarly 
 angular and Tartar -like physiognomy of the Hottentots. 
 The deportment of the people was attentive and serious, 
 and I was much pleased with the fine voices of many of 
 the singers. Their performance was, perhaps, not always 
 scientifically correct, and sometimes the singing was too 
 high ; but the tones of some of the voices, their softness as 
 well as their compass, were such as are rarely surpassed in 
 ordinary congregations. 
 
 On the last day of January we left Zurbraak, and spent 
 the following Sunday at the village of George and the ad- 
 jacent institution of Pecaltsdorp. Here, as well as at the 
 last station, we had very full conferences with the mission- 
 aries and the people respecting the important objects of my 
 visit. 
 
 On the 6th of February we ascended the celebrated Mon- 
 tague Pass over the Blue Mountains. It was in the neigh- 
 borhood of George that I first saw the beautiful Tritoma 
 uvaria, now designated Belthymea or Kniphofia, rearing its 
 slender upright stalk surmounted by a large cluster of pend- 
 ent trumpet-shaped flowers, with yellow centre and scarlet 
 ends. By the sides of the pass I also observed a number 
 of graceful ferns, especially one mass of the very elegantly- 
 growing Gleichenia pofypodioidSs, of which I gathered a spec- 
 imen. This plant spread up the side of the pass for three 
 or four yards from the road, entirely covering the face of 
 the rock. Among the bulbs was one bearing a dark blue
 
 CHAP. vin. OSTRICHES. 227 
 
 flower, wliicli I dug up and placed in the wagon. There 
 were also great numbers of scarlet amaranthine plants just 
 coming into flower. In the afternoon of this day we passed 
 a couple of ostriches. They were feeding among the heath, 
 or, rather, the low shrubby Rheinorsten bush, and did not 
 attempt to run until we had approached within twenty 
 yards, when they raised up their long necks, apparently 
 seven or eight feet high, and then quietly trotted away, the 
 elastic springing of the feathers of their wings and tail im- 
 parting to their movements a singular appearance. Though 
 the road was in some parts extremely rough, we traveled 
 about fifty-two miles during the day, and arrived at Dysals- 
 dorp a little before sunset. 
 
 The next day we visited, in company with Mr. Anderson, 
 many objects of interest at the station, among others the 
 dam across the Elephant's Eiver, a valuable water-course 
 constructed by the people for irrigating their land ; and ear- 
 ly on the following morning we set off to visit a settlement 
 recently formed at the base of the Zwartz Mountains. On 
 our way we again passed a couple of ostriches and several 
 pairs of the Cape turkey, a species of bustard. After trav- 
 eling about sixteen miles we halted at Silvermansdorp. 
 Here Mr. Schceman, a hospitable boer, invited us to his 
 house, and furnished us with an excellent breakfast. We 
 were now joined by another party, including a Swedish nat- 
 uralist, proceeding to the celebrated Cango Caverns, which 
 we also intended to visit. 
 
 From this point we proceeded on horseback, threading 
 our way through thickets of mimosa, or among fragments 
 of rock, by the margin of a stream which flowed along the 
 bottom of a deep wooded valley. This stream we fre- 
 quently crossed at times passing for a considerable dis- 
 tance along its course the water, in some places, scarcely 
 covering the horses' fetlocks, in others reaching to the girths. 
 Here I found a new kind of vegetation. The speckboom .
 
 228 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. vra. 
 
 or elephant's food, Portulacaria Afra, was abundant ; but I 
 was most gratified on meeting, as with old friends, with sev- 
 eral sorts of geraniums growing in their native state. The 
 horse-shoe and plain-leaved scarlet were quite large shrubs, 
 sometimes six or seven feet high. The dark oak-leaved 
 kind grew vigorously. The ivy-leaved variety spread its 
 creeping branches over the adjacent trees, and opened its 
 pink blossoms in great abundance. In other places I no- 
 ticed several of the finer-leaved Pelargoniums, with small 
 and delicately-penciled flowers. * 
 
 About noon we left the stream, and, leading our horses 
 some distance up the mountain's side, reached the entrance 
 to the Cango Caverns. Having provided ourselves with 
 guides and large candles, inserted in the end of bamboo 
 canes, we proceeded along a passage about six feet wide, on 
 an uneven and slippery path, for about thirty or forty yards. 
 We then came to a precipice, which we descended by means 
 of a rude sort of ladder for about thirty feet, and then found 
 ourselves in a spacious subterranean hall or chamber, from 
 sixty to a hundred feet wide, and fifty feet high ; but, though 
 our party was large and our lights numerous, it was not 
 easy to j udge of dimensions under such circumstances. This 
 chamber is called after the discoverer of the cavern, Van 
 Zil's Hall. In different places parts of the dark bluish-col- 
 ored original limestone, or schistous rock, appeared, but the 
 sides were nearly covered with calcareous incrustations, and 
 the roof was hung with stalactites of varied form, but chiefly 
 small and short. A number of apertures or chasms, some 
 of them three or four feet wide, opened into passages lead- 
 ing to other smaller chambers or grottoes, some covered 
 with recently -crystallized stalactites, which reflected and 
 multiplied our lights like the cut glass of a chandelier. In 
 others the crystallizations were in a state of decomposition. 
 "We visited some exceedingly beautiful grottoes on the left- 
 hand side of the large entrance-hall, and then proceeded
 
 CHAP. vin. THE CANGO CAVERNS. 229 
 
 farther toward the interior of the mountain, passing some- 
 times through a series of chambers connected by narrow, 
 and at times difficult, passages. Few of these chambers 
 were of equal dimensions with the first, but most of them 
 were lined and ornamented with stalactite formations of ev- 
 ery imaginable shape, and in various stages of crystalliza- 
 tion or decomposition. In some places buttresses or pilas- 
 ters, of most exquisite brightness and of elaborate combi- 
 nations of form, reached down the sides of the wall from the 
 roof to the floor. In others single pillars, or clusters of 
 small pillars, like those in the interior of a cathedral, rose 
 from the floor and spread out broader at the top, as if from 
 thence arches were to spring. Sometimes the stalagmites 
 seemed like glassy tapering cones fixed in the floor, and 
 reaching nearly to the roof. The floors of the rooms and 
 passages were uneven and slippery, generally covered with 
 a whitish substance like slightly-sullied snow. But it would 
 have required, as indeed it would have amply repaid, a 
 much longer time than I could then command to examine 
 or note either the exact dimensions of the place, or the cu- 
 rious and strange crystallizations which crowded around 
 me. As it was, I sometimes found myself left alone by my 
 companions, in consequence of having lingered to look on 
 the inconceivably striking and attractive forms which sur- 
 rounded, and ceiled, and floored some exquisite little grotto 
 connected by a chasm or other aperture, with the main gal- 
 lery or passage, like one of the beautiful little marble chap 
 els which are seen in the side of some of the splendid 
 churches in Italy. 
 
 The silent and ceaseless process by which the interiors 
 of these sublime temples of nature had been thus decorated 
 and furnished was apparent, and formed not the least inter- 
 esting among the many wonders of the place. A circle of 
 crystals, on a part of the roof where drops of water hung 
 suspended, marked in several places the commencement of
 
 230 VISITS TO MADAGASCAE. CHAP. vm. 
 
 one of those singular formations. At other places a broad- 
 based cone descended several feet, while the moisture drip- 
 ping from its inverted apex indicated that the beautiful 
 stalactite was still receiving fresh additions to its size and 
 form. Sometimes I noticed small marble-like circles on the 
 floor, at others the pyramid rose several feet high, its sum- 
 mit presenting a thimble-shaped cup filled with water, 
 which, overflowing, spread down the sides. In some parts 
 the crystallizations above and below appeared to have no 
 connection, but in others the upper and lower formations 
 appeared to be immediately one above the other, the lower 
 structure being formed by the lime-impregnated water, drip- 
 ping from the centre of the stalactite above. At times they 
 had approached within a few feet of each other, and some 
 were so united as to exhibit the form of a gigantic hour- 
 glass, cut with exquisite sharpness, and with endless variety 
 of figure. Besides the water dropping constantly from the 
 roof, there were frequent cisterns or hollows in the sides or 
 floors of the grottoes, like pure alabaster baths, filled with 
 water so transparent that several of us stepped more than 
 ankle deep into them, without perceiving any thing but the 
 coral-like stalagmite at the bottom. The water was cold 
 and perfectly tasteless. In many of the chambers I ob- 
 served names, and dates of the visits of parties, some of 
 high rank and station, either cut in the rock, or written in 
 pencil on the walls. At length, after having been two 
 hours in the cavern, we reached the spacious gallery, said 
 to be 800 feet in length, and designated the Thompson gal- 
 lery, from its having been first explored by a gentleman 
 of that name about thirty years ago. From this point we 
 retraced our steps, visiting, on our way back, several small 
 and exceedingly beautiful grottoes, situated along the sides 
 of those by which we had passed on our way into the cav- 
 ern. 
 
 On reaching the mountain side we proceeded to the
 
 CHAP. vm. MATZIE'S KIVIEKE. 231 
 
 house of a neighboring boer, who had acted as our guide, 
 and after a short rest pursued our difficult way through the 
 tangled brushwood and along the stony bottom of the val- 
 ley for several miles ; and, having crossed the river more 
 than forty times during the journey to and from the cav- 
 ern, we reached a more open country and a better road. 
 Ee vie wing, in thought, the rare and wonderful objects I 
 had so recently left, and gazing on the bold mountain, the 
 wood, and the deep rocky ravine, with its choked-up tor- 
 rent overgrown with wild brushwood and trees a wild un- 
 tamed wilderness, differing, perhaps, little from what it was 
 three quarters of a century ago, when the boer Van Zil in 
 his hunting excursion discovered the cavern I found my- 
 self involuntarily musing on its probable aspect in future 
 ages, under the influence of an augmented population, and 
 a higher order of civilization. 
 
 After riding along for some time, we " off-saddled," to 
 use the expression of the country, in order to allow our 
 horses to graze and rest for half an hour. Tired with the 
 excitement and exercise of the day, I lay down at the foot 
 of a mountain, resting my head upon a piece" of rock, and 
 soon fell fast asleep ; but was awakened by an aged negro 
 woman, who lived in a hut near at hand, and had brought 
 us half a dozen ripe juicy pears, as welcome to us as the 
 fresh green grass was to our horses. When Mr. Anderson 
 tendered our thanks, the poor woman simply replied, "I 
 thank God : He gives us all." I afterward found that she 
 occasionally went to Matzie's Kiviere, ten miles distant, 
 when Mr. Anderson visited the station to preach to the 
 people. 
 
 When rested and refreshed we mounted our horses, and, 
 just as the sun was setting, reached Matzie's Kiviere, a fer- 
 tile plain at the foot of the lofty range of Zwartzberg 
 mountains. The good people, who had sent horses half 
 the way to meet us, gave us a simple but cordial welcome,
 
 232 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. vra. 
 
 bringing us refreshment to the large old house of the for- 
 mer proprietor; and then, after assembling for religious 
 worship, retired to their different homes. 
 
 Next morning, while sitting at our breakfast, of which 
 excellent fruit formed a considerable part, I looked out and 
 saw within a circular fence, at a short distance from the 
 house, eight or ten horses driven round upon a quantity 
 of straw spread over a smooth hard clay floor. This I 
 was informed was their threshing-floor, and thus the corn 
 was trodden out a process which I afterward witnessed in 
 many other parts of the colony. During the day we ac- 
 companied the missionary and a number of the people to 
 their grazing-ground, corn-lands, gardens, fountains, and dif- 
 ferent habitations. At the latter we found the good-wife 
 had usually a cup of coffee and cakes, or a dish of grapes 
 or some other refreshment, waiting our arrival. The cot- 
 tages, though designated by their owners as only tempora- 
 ry dwellings, were many of them neat and comfortable. 
 All contained a separate and partitioned bedroom ; and I 
 was sometimes amused at the accumulation of treasures 
 which the outer room exhibited. Each had a table and 
 chairs, or some ruder kind of seat, frequently the driving- 
 box of a wagon. In one cottage, where we took some re- 
 freshment, the end of the room was occupied by two large 
 bins about four feet deep, built up in brick- work from the 
 floor, and filled with excellent wheat in quantity, I was 
 told, about forty bushels. At one corner of the same room 
 hung the fowling-piece of the master, with powder-horns, 
 and shooting apparatus; at another corner the adze, the 
 axe, the cross-cut saw ; and in a third the spade and the 
 hoe ; while chisels, augers, and small tools were stuck into 
 different parts of the thatch; and on a pole above hung 
 long strips of the dried flesh of the -antelope, and other 
 beasts. The shelves, in different parts, were occupied with 
 articles of crockery- ware, besides a coffee-pot, and a brass
 
 CHAP. vra. SETTLEMENT OF AFRICAN CHRISTIANS. 233 
 
 or tin tea-kettle. Beyond these, the skins of kids, or other 
 small animals converted into bags, with the hair inside, but 
 the legs projecting some apparently filled with nails or 
 other valuables hung from different parts of the walls. 
 The cooking-place was generally in a low shed outside. 
 
 In the evening the people assembled in considerable 
 numbers for public worship. Many of the men remained 
 for friendly conference with the missionary until a late 
 hour. After we had retired for the night, we were dis- 
 turbed by the loud barking of the dogs, who had found in 
 one of the gardens a porcupine, which they killed. 
 
 Soon after daybreak the next morning we took leave of 
 our friends. Eight or nine of the men accompanied us on 
 horseback for several miles, when we all alighted, and after 
 a hearty farewell we resumed our journey, and they re- 
 turned to their homes. 
 
 The members of this interesting community, and there 
 were about forty families, both men and women, were all a 
 few years ago slaves. In this condition, however, they had 
 received religious instruction, and had become Christian 
 men and women. Slavery had made them familiar with 
 labor, and this has proved their great advantage. When 
 emancipated, their labor soon brought its return. Chris- 
 tianity taught them prudence in the use of their earnings, 
 and thus they were soon able to buy a few goats, or sheep, 
 and oxen. Two or three years ago, eighteen of them, led 
 by the missionary, united in renting this farm of 8000 
 acres. The cultivation of the farm enabled them to pay 
 the rent punctually ; and a year ago they entered, before 
 the constituted authorities, into a legal agreement to pur- 
 chase it for 4000, to be paid by installments with six per 
 cent, interest. One thousand pounds was to be paid in the 
 month of November after our visit, and Mr. Anderson said 
 he had no doubt that the money would be all ready by the 
 specified time. Every one of the land-owners possesses a
 
 234 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. vra. 
 
 team of oxen, and all but one a wagon. They possess, 
 moreover, a large number of horses, beside cows, sheep, and 
 goats. They have divided the land into twenty parts : Mr. 
 Anderson, who has led them on in every step, taking one 
 part ; and they have every prospect of soon beholding the 
 whole their own. The few regulations of the community 
 are simple and judicious. One is, that no intoxicating 
 drink shall be sold in the place. Every one of these men 
 gave his vote at the late election of members to be sent by 
 this district to the South African parliament; I was told 
 that their suffrages were solicited by more than one candi- 
 date. 
 
 Arrangements were made while I was there for securing 
 the services of a schoolmaster ; and they hope, ultimately, 
 to provide the requisite means for their own spiritual in- 
 struction. I left them not only with a high degree of satis- 
 faction, on account of what I had witnessed, but with senti- 
 ments of deep respect ; and at our last parting interview I 
 alluded to the goodness of God toward them, their own 
 great responsibility, and the glorious future before them as 
 being among the pioneers of their class throughout the 
 country. 
 
 After a fatiguing j ourney a great part of the way through 
 the rocky defiles which we had previously traversed we 
 reached the recently-established but thriving village of Oud- 
 shorn. The labors of Mr. Anderson had been, for some 
 time divided between the inhabitants of this place and those 
 of Dysalsdorp ; and early in the evening we met the people 
 in the neat substantial chapel, which they had recently 
 erected, for the purpose of deliberating on important ar- 
 rangements connected with the education of their children 
 and their own religious benefit. I was highly gratified with 
 the lively, active, and prosperous state of the Christian com- 
 munity here, more especially with the commendable efforts 
 they had made, and were still proposing to make, for sus-
 
 CHAP. viir. JOURNEY ACROSS THE DESERT. 235 
 
 taining the ordinances of religion among themselves. These 
 laudable purposes they have since fully carried out, and 
 their highly-esteemed minister is now generously supported 
 by the people among whom he labors. Sunday, February 
 the llth, was ushered in by a meeting for prayer at sunrise. 
 At the forenoon service many more attended than could 
 gain admission to the chapel ; and about two hundred com- 
 municants afterward united in partaking of the Lord's Sup- 
 per. Their serious and earnest attention during the services 
 of the day afforded me much satisfaction. In the afternoon 
 we proceeded to Dysalsdorp, eighteen miles distant, where 
 a large congregation met for public worship in the even- 
 ing. 
 
 On Monday the 12th, after an important meeting with the 
 people of the place, Mr. Thompson and I took leave of Mr. 
 Anderson and his sister, grateful for the hospitality and 
 kindness we had received. We next directed our course 
 toward the Karroo, or desert, which we had to pass before 
 reaching Graaf-Eeinet. In order to relieve our horses as 
 much as possible we gent them on three days' journey, that 
 they might be better prepared for the most difficult part of 
 the route. Following with oxen we reached the place 
 where they had been waiting on Wednesday night, and on 
 Thursday morning, after ascending a sort of defile, called 
 Do Beers Port, we entered the Karroo. About noon we 
 came to a pool of muddy water, near a solitary house, where 
 we halted to rest, and to give our horses water ; the last we 
 expected to obtain for them until the desert was passed. A 
 Dutch New Testament was received with expressions of 
 thankfulness by the mistress of this solitary dwelling, who 
 refused any payment for the water for our horses, or milk 
 for ourselves. In about an hour we departed, and were 
 now traversing the desert, bordered on the side by which 
 we had entered by low barren hills, but stretching away to 
 the eastward and northward, as far as the eye could reach,
 
 236 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. Vm. 
 
 in one dreary, treeless waste, with only here and there a 
 very distant hill looming in the horizon. 
 
 The soil of this desert is hard-baked reddish earth, level 
 rock, or gritty sand and loose stones. The only vegetation 
 was a sparse prickly sort of stunted bush, seldom a foot 
 high, with several varieties of euphorbia and mesembryan- 
 themum. We saw a few birds, but all besides was a blank 
 and dreary waste. Ever since leaving the pool of water 
 one of our horses had shown symptoms of disease, and about 
 five o'clock our driver said he did not think it would live, 
 and that if it died we should never get the wagon across 
 the desert with the rest. In this predicament we halted for 
 the- night, and, perceiving a tent and a couple of wagons at 
 a short distance belonging to some boers who are in the 
 habit at certain seasons of the year of moving about the 
 borders of the desert with large flocks of sheep, we were 
 truly glad to find, on inquiry, that they had a horse which 
 they were willing to exchange or sell. On this occasion we 
 slept all night in our wagon in the open desert, and having 
 obtained a fresh horse the next morning resumed our jour- 
 ney. In two or three hours, however, two other horses 
 became ill, and as the driver said they could go no farther, 
 we halted till the cool of the day. We had walked a great 
 part of the distance to relieve our horses, every now and 
 then passing, either on the road or near it, the whitening 
 skeleton of some poor toil-worn beast which had there found 
 its last resting-place. Toward evening we set off again, 
 proceeding at a slow pace until about nine o'clock, when 
 we gave our horses half the provender that remained, but 
 looked in vain for water. At midnight we had thunder 
 and lightning, and rain, but the tilt of our wagon kept us 
 dry. Soon after daybreak we were again moving, and again 
 in the course of a few hours our horses showed signs of 
 fatigue. We therefore walked on a considerable way, 
 and in about an hour and a half reached Braakfontayn,
 
 CHAP. vra. EEACH BEAAKFONTAYN. 237 
 
 where we found water and provender. The horses, as soon 
 as they were unharnessed, ran to the green grass growing 
 by the side of the fountain, and began to eat most vora- 
 ciously ; they then turned to the water, but drank less than 
 I expected ; their next enjoyment was a good roll in the 
 dust. They afterward eagerly consumed a number of small 
 sheaves of oats, called oat-hay, which is the usual provender 
 for horses in the colony. 
 
 At the same farm-house where we procured the oats we 
 also obtained bread and milk, and excellent grapes, for our 
 own breakfast. I afterward went to one of the large barns 
 or outhouses near, into which a number of Caffre and Fingoe 
 women were carrying on their heads baskets of grapes ; and 
 on entering the place saw, toward one end, a large heap of 
 bunches of fine ripe grapes, which the master informed us 
 were to be used in making brandy. The grapes are first 
 put into large vats or bags, formed by attaching a bullock's 
 hide by its edges and four poles, and leaving it to sink down 
 in the middle. I thought, as I looked at the heap, that such 
 fine, ripe, juicy-looking fruit might have been appropriated 
 to a better purpose. 
 
 The place where the grapes grew was at some distance, 
 but close to this lone dwelling, on the border of the wide 
 desert, I was delighted to find a little spot inclosed as a 
 flower-garden, in, which lilies, gladioluses, balsams, cocks- 
 combs, stocks, pinks, passion-flowers, very stunted dahlias, 
 and other flowers, as well as culinary herbs, were growing. 
 
 The features of the country, in the direction opposite to 
 the desert, were characterized by that vastness, massive so- 
 lidity, and grandeur which had marked all the most striking 
 portions of African scenery that I had yet seen, and which 
 made the picturesque mountains and valleys of Mauritius 
 appear, in comparison, only like charming little miniature 
 models of nature. The Camdeboo mountains lay a few 
 miles distant in a northerly direction, presenting, at different
 
 238 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. vin. 
 
 parts along the range, the perpendicular wall-like summit 
 and long flat top so peculiar to this part of Africa ; and be- 
 yond these, to the northeast, the loftier range of the Sneuw- 
 berg stretched far away in the distant horizon. 
 
 Soon after noon we resumed our journey, and often rest- 
 ing at intervals, twice crossing the Sunday Eiver, and walk- 
 ing a considerable way in the dark, we reached Graaf Eeinet 
 at a late hour, having traveled during the day about fifty 
 miles. The missionary at the station kindly welcomed us, 
 and soon provided food for the horses, and refreshment and 
 lodging for ourselves. The rest of the next day, which was 
 the Sabbath, was truly welcome after six days' traveling. 
 The driver reported the horses well, but very hungry, so 
 we hoped they would hold out, as we had no more deserts 
 to cross. 
 
 In the forenoon I attended public worship, where about 
 five hundred colored people assembled in their neat and 
 spacious stone chapel, which had been recently enlarged. 
 It was the day on which the claims of those who were 
 fighting the battles of England in the Crimea were, accord- 
 ing to previous announcement, presented by the missionary 
 to the notice of the people, and their collection toward the 
 Patriotic Fund in England amounted to more than ten 
 pounds. Collections of a similar kind were about this time 
 made in most of the missionary congregations of people of 
 color, and this was about the sum which several of them 
 contributed, a sum not indeed large in itself, but as an ex- 
 pression of sympathy and good-feeling highly commenda- 
 ble. 
 
 The following day we spent in visiting the school, and 
 deliberating with the minister and the people on the affairs 
 of the station, and the more immediate objects of my visit. 
 On the morning of the 21st of February we took our de- 
 parture, the good people furnishing us with a team of eight 
 strong oxen to drag our wagon to the top of the Sneuw-
 
 CHAP. viii. GRAAF REINET. 239 
 
 berg, an ascent of eight miles, and afterward to help us on 
 a day's journey beyond. On our way out of the town we 
 called on one of the people, formerly a slave, but now liv- 
 ing in a very respectable house, and the proprietor of an 
 excellent vineyard, orchard, and other property. When 
 taking leave he called me aside, and quietly gave me a 
 handsome silver snuff-box, lined with gold, and with his 
 name engraved on the lid, which he said he wished me to 
 present to the London Missionary Society, as an expression 
 of his- grateful feelings toward that institution. His wife, 
 who was also formerly a slave, in the mean time brought 
 out a basket of fine ripe apples and apricots, for our use on 
 the journey. 
 
 Graaf Eeinet, which we had now left, is an interesting 
 place, admirably situated in a sort of basin formed by 
 mountains of varied height and form, and watered by the , 
 Sunday Eiver, by whose winding course it is nearly sur- 
 rounded. Numbers of magnificent oleanders, Nerium splen- 
 dens, twelve or fourteen feet high, were in full flower, the 
 blossoms much darker colored than they are ever seen in 
 England. Large weeping- willows were growing luxuriant- 
 ly around the fountain in the centre of the town, near which 
 the compact and substantial mission buildings were situa- 
 ted. The Dutch Eeformed Church here is a fine building, 
 with steeple and spire, and stands, I presume, on the site of 
 one in which, half a century ago, the insurgent boers of 
 that day, then in arms against the government, insisted, as 
 one of the conditions of peace, upon having the pulpit 
 washed, because in it Dr. Vanderkemp had, with the sanc- 
 tion of the commissioner, preached to the people of color 
 resorting to the place. How great the change produced by 
 fifty years ! for now some of the people of color possess 
 considerable landed property in the same place, live in a 
 style of respectability and comfort, and occupy important 
 positions, while enjoying the respect of society. One of
 
 240 VISITS TO MADAGASCAE. CHAP. vm. 
 
 them, a smith, has a number of apprentices or journeymen 
 always employed, among whom I heard there was both a 
 Dutchman and an Englishman, as well as native Africans. 
 
 Besides the friends more immediately connected with the 
 missions, I had the pleasure, during my short- stay, of mak- 
 ing the acquaintance of the esteemed clergyman of the 
 Dutch Keformed Church, Mr. Murray, and his excellent 
 family. 
 
 During the remainder of the week we traveled through 
 the rocky passes of the Sneuwberg mountains, and over a 
 succession of plains descending toward the boundary of the 
 colony. The roads during the first part of the journey 
 were unusually bad, lying along mountain gorges, and 
 loose, broken, rocky ground, often intersected by deep gul- 
 lies or water-courses, in one of which we passed a loaded 
 wagon set fast and broken. The weather was also exceed- 
 ingly cold, with occasional storms of thunder, lightning, and 
 rain among the mountains, which, though they appeared to 
 us of considerable size and height, were only the peaks and 
 summits of the Sneuwberg as seen from the plains below. 
 On the second day we passed through a flight of locusts of 
 considerable extent, and so numerous, that, except in color, 
 they resembled a thickly falling snow-storm. At first our 
 horses were much excited, and disposed to wheel about, but 
 afterward, though uneasy, they were kept on their way. 
 "We succeeded in obtaining provender at the few farm- 
 houses which we passed, and generally halted for the night 
 where water was to be obtained, cooking our evening meal 
 by starlight on the road side, and sleeping in the wagon. 
 Oar plan was to start by daylight, to halt during the heat 
 of the day, and to journey late in the evening. 
 
 On the morning of the third day, having descended from 
 the mountain heights, we saw, as the morning mist cleared 
 away, vast herds of springboks, Antilope euchore, a species 
 of antelope, beautifully formed, and graceful in all its move-
 
 CHAP. vm. SPRINGBOKS. GNUS. 241 
 
 ments. Besides these, there were herds of gnus, Antilope 
 gnu, feeding in the plains on either side of us ; with num- 
 bers of tall birds, the Anthropoides Stanley ajius, or Caffre 
 crane. The gnus were not a quarter of a mile before us, 
 and continued quietly grazing until we were within two or 
 three hundred yards of them, when they cocked up their 
 tails and cantered away. They were all of a tawny brown 
 color, with the ends of their tails white. In their size and 
 their paces they looked more like ponies with excessive 
 hog manes, than animals of the ox species. During the 
 day we passed herd after herd, varying in number from 
 five to twenty in each, including the young ones. The 
 springboks frequently crossed the road only a short dis- 
 tance before us, passing along by a succession of bounds, or 
 vaulting leaps, with remarkable rapidity and gracefulness. 
 Mile after mile these beautiful animals appeared in varied 
 numbers, scattered over the plains on either side. On our 
 way we passed the wagon of a traveling boer, and pur- 
 chased of him half a sheep and some flesh of the gnu for 
 our men. 
 
 About eleven o'clock, on the same morning, we crossed 
 a rushy, muddy, but rather deep stream, called Seacow's 
 Eiver, and soon afterward, reaching a farm-house, we sent a 
 man to ask if we could procure forage for our cattle, and a 
 little bread for ourselves. The man returned to say that 
 our wants could be supplied, and we were invited to alight. 
 On reaching the house, a scene of refinement and taste, for 
 which we had not been prepared, burst upon our view. 
 We were ushered into a nice elegantly-furnished room, on 
 the walls of which hung some good pictures. A number of 
 elegantly -bound volumes lay on the table, where also there 
 was a shallow dish filled with fresh and fragrant flowers. 
 Two young ladies welcomed us, and in a minute or two a 
 tall gentlemanly man entered, who bade us welcome in fine 
 English, and pressed us to take breakfast, which was soon 
 
 Q
 
 242 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. vm. 
 
 dispensed with true English hospitality and kindness by his 
 daughter, while we conversed with our host. Alluding to 
 the animals we had seen; he said that at certain seasons, 
 when drought prevailed in other parts, the springboks 
 came down to this neighborhood in thousands; that he 
 had sometimes shot forty in one day. He said they were 
 very destructive, and that, though by strict watching they 
 might be kept from the crops during the day, they could 
 not be kept off by night, and sometimes devoured the 
 whole of the grain, and every other green thing. 
 
 Our conversation then turned upon colonial affairs, and 
 afterward on the war in Europe, the alliance between En- 
 gland and France, with the politics and literature of England. 
 Our host told us his name was Gilfillan, and asked if I knew 
 whether the author of the " Bards of the Bible" was from 
 Selkirk. On learning that I expected soon to return to 
 England, he said he should like to visit the old country again, 
 but supposed he never should. I wanted to look over his 
 garden, but the tune had passed so rapidly in this unlooked- 
 for oasis, that we felt obliged to bid our friends a hasty fare- 
 well and depart. The place is called Wonder Hill, from a 
 singular conical mountain rising near the house. 
 
 Passing along, after our departure, over the same treeless 
 region, we reached, in the afternoon of the 24th of February, 
 the frontier village of Colesberg. There we spent a pleasant 
 Sabbath with M. De Kok, and on Monday afternoon pur- 
 sued our way toward the Orange Eiver, twenty miles distant, 
 where we arrived the same evening. 
 
 On approaching the river we found it impassable. A 
 number of families, with their wagons, were waiting on 
 both sides for the subsiding of the swollen waters. The 
 man in charge of the ferry told us it had not been passed 
 since Saturday, and that it was uncertain when the flood 
 would subside. "We walked to the side of the stream, but 
 the violence and noise with which the turbid waters rolled
 
 CHAP. vra. FRESHET IN ORANGE RIVER. 243 
 
 along afforded little hope of a speedy passage to the oppo- 
 site shore. The scene along the banks presented a curious 
 spectacle. We seemed to be in the midst of a wide en- 
 campment. Gipsy fires gleamed in every direction along 
 the borders of the stream, throwing their strong but flick- 
 ering light upon the groups of swarthy figures employed in 
 cooking the evening meal, strongly contrasting with the 
 white tents or canvas coverings of the different vehicles. 
 Cattle in abundance lay chewing the cud, or sleeping around 
 the wagons of their owners, and a number of children were 
 playing on the broad sands between these and the edge of 
 the water, mingling their shouts and Daughter with the oc- 
 casional barking of the dogs and the voices of the men. 
 We added our fire to the number already burning; and, 
 after drinking tea by moonlight, spread our beds in the 
 wagon and lay down to rest. 
 
 The next morning disclosed little if any diminution of 
 the stream, which appeared to be about three hundred yards 
 wide, though on our side it had subsided more than fifty 
 yards from the line which at one time it had reached. Some 
 of the mimosa-trees, which generally grow ten or twelve feet 
 high, were more than half covered ; and trees of tSalix Ga- 
 riepiana, the weeping-willow peculiar to the banks of the 
 Gariep or Orange Eiver, growing several yards nearer the 
 centre of the stream, exhibited only their tops, their trunks 
 and lower branches being still under water. Piles of drift- 
 wood on the opposite side, as well as marks on the rocky 
 banks to the eastward, showed that the water had recently 
 been many feet higher than at present. One of the boers 
 informed us that the flood had washed down two men, one 
 of them a Caffre, with eight horses, two cows, and a gnu, 
 all dead. We afterward saw a dead springbok floating 
 down the middle of the stream. 
 
 Turning from the river, a new and singular scene pre- 
 sented itself. A level space, thinly overspread with mimosa
 
 244 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. \ CHAP. vin. 
 
 bushes, extended about one hundred yards toward high, 
 steep, and sometimes overhanging basaltic rocks. On the 
 left, two caverns, the entrances of which were screened by 
 a mat or piece of cloth hung across a stick, constituted the 
 dwelling-place of some Hottentot families. The men be- 
 longing to them were employed about the ferry; and a 
 small space, inclosed with a wall of loose stones, formed 
 their pen or fold, into which a few goats were driven at 
 night. Nearer the water were one or 'two huts belonging 
 to the man in charge of the ferry ; and, still farther to the 
 right, the wagons or tents of the boers, with a number of 
 more fragile sleeping-places for the colored people attend- 
 ing them. There were on our side of the river eleven wag- 
 ons and a couple of carts, forming quite a village. As I 
 passed along I noticed recently-killed sheep, or parts of 
 carcasses, and long strips of flesh hanging from the branch- 
 es of the mimosa bushes around the wagons which consti- 
 tuted the movable houses of their owners. The horses, 
 oxen, and sheep had gone forth to graze; but the kids 
 skipped about among the rocks, and the hens and chickens 
 were busily occupied under the wagons. A number of 
 men were engaged in shaping the trunk of a tree into a 
 windlass for the large ferry-boat ; and some good matronly- 
 looking women were at their needle-work under a spread- 
 ing mimosa, having a polished rosewood work-box open on 
 the sand before them. Not far off a stout young farmer 
 was nursing a baby in a long white frock ; and, in the rear, 
 Hottentot mothers were attending to their infants; while 
 the larger children were rolling about on the sand. Near 
 most of the wagons was a fire-place, generally composed of 
 three stones fixed in the sand, and around these fire-places 
 the Hottentot servants were preparing the morning meal. 
 Most of the parties had tea-kettles, and tea or coffee seemed 
 to be in general use. "When the food was prepared, it was 
 carried to the shady side of an adjacent bush, where the
 
 CHAP. vm. CROSS THE ORANGE. 245 
 
 family gathered around it. In the afternoon the men 
 brought in bundles of fire-wood, and the women fetched 
 water from the river, carrying tall jars, or other vessels, 
 full of water, upon their heads, without any "support from 
 their hands. I "was often struck during this journey by the 
 perfect ease with which a Hottentot woman walked along 
 with one hand resting on her hip, and the other hanging 
 by her side, and with a tall jar of water, full to the brim, 
 upon her head. 
 
 Toward evening the cattle, horses, sheep, and goats were 
 driven home, generally lying for the night around the wag- 
 ons. "When the herds were brought home the fires were 
 kindled and the evening meal prepared. After supper the 
 young people, white and colored, amused themselves to- 
 gether in some noisy, boisterous game, frequently repre- 
 senting the exploits of hunting ; and by nine o'clock all re- 
 tired to rest. 
 
 My companion and I conformed to the customs of our 
 neighbors, so far as to take our meals in the same manner 
 and about the same time. The weather was fine, the even- 
 ings pleasant, and, during the few days that we remained 
 here, I became quite reconciled to this out-of-doors life. In 
 my wanderings during the day I found, under the shelter 
 of the rocks in the neighborhood, some beautiful ferns, 
 among them a new variety of Gldclienm and Platyloma ca- 
 lomelanos, seed fructified fronds of which I was so fortunate 
 as to secure for the purpose of taking home. 
 
 Having waited from Monday until Thursday, the 1st of 
 March, and seeing no immediate prospect of getting our 
 wagon over the river, we left it and crossed in a small boat 
 to the opposite side. Here we found a number of persons 
 detained, and among them a young bridegroom elect on his 
 way to be married. Soon after noon Mr. Solomon, the mis- 
 sionary from Philippolis, arrived, and in the evening we ac- 
 companied him on horseback to his station. The four fol-
 
 246 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. vm. 
 
 lowing days we passed at Philippolis, where we were much 
 gratified with the spirit and the general feeling manifested 
 by the people; while, on our part, every endeavor was 
 made to encourage them with regard to the future. Their 
 country is fertile, their grazing-ground good, and it is said 
 that they possess eight or ten thousand horses, besides oth- 
 er stock. They bid fair to be a prosperous people, could 
 they but feel security, and it is to be hoped that the recent 
 proceedings in connection with the Orange Eiver territory, 
 of which they so loudly complain, will be reviewed, and 
 thus the evils they so justly fear be averted, and the wrong 
 they have suffered be redressed. Owing to the discourage- 
 ment so naturally felt, their settlement was not in such 
 good order as it might otherwise have been ; but several 
 persons were building good houses, and they seemed very 
 much in earnest in their endeavors to secure the best possi- 
 ble means of future improvement and safety. One of these 
 measures was the thorough education of their children ; 
 and, in order to effect this, they sent a wagon and two 
 team, or twenty-four oxen, to Cape Town, to bring down a 
 well-qualified schoolmaster and his family to reside among 
 them, guaranteeing him the means of comfortable support. 
 The public religious services on the Sabbath day were 
 well attended here. Upward of a hundred wagons, bring- 
 ing families from a distance of five, ten, or even twenty 
 miles, arrived on the Saturday evening, and on the follow- 
 ing morning the church, capable of holding about 700 per- 
 sons, was filled, while many remained outside. The ordi- 
 nance of the Lord's Supper was afterward administered, 
 and in the afternoon Mr. Edwards, who had arrived on the 
 previous evening from an adjacent station, preached to a 
 considerable number of Betchuanas in their own language. 
 The religious proceedings of the day included the baptism 
 of two Griquas, and, on the following morning, a young 
 couple were publicly married, receiving, as they retired, the
 
 CHAP. vni. RETURN SOUTHWARD. 247 
 
 congratulations of a number of their friends, including some 
 of the chief people of the place. We closed the religious 
 engagements of the day by a devotional meeting at the 
 missionary's house, where we were joined by two or three 
 English friends from the neighborhood. The last day was 
 spent in public deliberations with the people, who expressed 
 themselves deeply sensible of their obligations to the Chris- 
 tians in England for the religious instruction they had long 
 been receiving, and they engaged for the future to provide 
 these advantages for themselves. They also expressed their 
 hopes of being able, at no distant period, to assist the society 
 in its widely-extended operations. "We had hoped to have 
 extended our journey to Griqua town, and I had previously 
 written to Mr. Moffat, and other missionaries, to meet us 
 there ; but the difficulty of obtaining horses, on account of 
 the sickness and the state of the Yaal Eiver beyond Philip- 
 polis, which had not been passable for some time, deprived 
 us of the pleasure of meeting these friends, and obliged us 
 to turn our steps back toward the colony. 
 
 Late in the evening we took leave of the hospitable mis- 
 sionary and his family, and, after receiving many expressions 
 of good-will from the people of the place, proceeded in a 
 wagon drawn by six horses, which they kindly lent us, 
 toward the Orange Eiver, where we arrived soon after mid- 
 night. 
 
 Early the next morning we recrossed the river without 
 difficulty, and found the encampment we had left five days 
 before, broken up and dispersed. As soon as our horses 
 were harnessed we commenced our journey southward ; but, 
 although we stopped at two houses on the road, we obtained 
 no forage until near sunset, when we reached a place called 
 Driefontayn. Here, our cattle were not only well cared for, 
 but, by the hospitality of the good people, we ourselves 
 were provided with a good supper and comfortable bed. In 
 the room in which we sat I noticed a Dutch translation of
 
 248 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. YHL 
 
 one of our most useful little books, " The Sinner's Friend," 
 lying on the table with the Bible, and there was something 
 very pleasing in the simple, unobtrusive piety of the family. 
 After we had retired to rest I heard one of the young peo- 
 ple reading the Bible, and all afterward uniting in their 
 evening hymn ; and again the next morning, before it was 
 fully light, the sound of their morning hymn and Scripture 
 reading was heard. A cup of coffee was soon afterward 
 provided for us, and our host, who, we had learned, was a 
 descendant of the French refugees, having understood that 
 we were traveling on a religious errand, refused any recom- 
 pense for the accommodation he had so cheerfully furnished 
 both for us and our horses. 
 
 At a farm-house, where we stopped during the forenoon 
 to procure food for our horses, we were again refreshed with 
 coffee, which seemed to be always ready, standing in a brass 
 or copper kettle over a dish of burning charcoal. The good 
 Dutch farmer here made a number of inquiries, which we 
 were unable to satisfy, respecting the price of wool at Port 
 Elizabeth. He told us he possessed 8000 fine-wooled sheep, 
 and that his people were shearing in a sort of barn opposite, 
 on entering which we saw three white men, and as many 
 natives, busily at work. The legs of the animals were tied, 
 and the sheep, whose wool the white men were removing, 
 were laid on a bench, so that the shearers stood upright. 
 The natives had their sheep laid on the floor. The farmer 
 told us a good workman would shear thirty or forty sheep 
 in a day, and that each fleece contained about three pounds 
 of wool. The sheep were unwashed. The master said that 
 at Colsberg he obtained sixpence per pound for unwashed 
 wool, and for that which was clean a shilling ; but observed 
 that he had too many sheep to be able to wash them. 
 
 The weather was rainy and cold during this part of our 
 journey, and provender scarce. On Friday we stopped for 
 the night at the house of a hospitable English family of
 
 CHAP. vin. CKADOCK. 249 
 
 the name of Trollope, residing at a place called Saltpansdrift. 
 Here an unexpected flash of home-feeling came over me, 
 when, looking over a neat, well-filled bookcase in the room, 
 I saw, among other well-bound books, " The Women of 
 England," and a number of other equally familiar volumes 
 by the same writer, which I had little expected to meet 
 with in this remote part of Africa. 
 
 In the afternoon of the 9th of March we reached Cradock, 
 the chief place of the district of the same name, and pleas- 
 antly situated on the banks of the Great Fish Eiver. The 
 scenery, as we approached the village, was unusually attract- 
 ive. Two lofty table-shaped mountains called the Speck- 
 boom Mountains rose on the right. On the left appeared a 
 picturesque range called the Eland Mountains ; and to the 
 north and east the Screw Mountains, so called from the 
 tortuous road leading through them ; and the Morai Mount- 
 ains. Some of these presented outlines of unusual beauty, 
 exhibiting perpendicularly -formed sides, with verdant and 
 sli ghtly-fl attened summits. Trees, and vineyards now loaded 
 with ripe grapes, were numerous in the town ; the houses 
 were not large but respectable ; the population is said to 
 be about 1500, of whom nearly two thirds were persons of 
 color. 
 
 We took up our abode with Mr. and Mrs. Taylor, whom I 
 had previously known ; and were glad of a short season of 
 rest after our fatiguing journey. I found my good friend, 
 among many discouragements, still cheered by instances of 
 success in his missionary work. After spending Sunday 
 very pleasantly at the station, and endeavoring to encourage 
 the missionary and people, we continued our journey. Mrs. 
 Munro, the widow of an excellent missionary, kindly fur- 
 nished us with a basket of grapes ; and Mr. Taylor accom- 
 panied us for some distance to prevent our mistaking the 
 road. We then traveled through a pleasant and partially 
 wooded country, but over a rough stony road ; and, passing
 
 250 VISITS TO MADAGASCAE. CHAP. vm. 
 
 the Great Fish and the Tarka Elvers, between five and six 
 o'clock, reached, near Daggerboers hoek, a neat-looking 
 stone house, with Hotel written over the door. 
 
 The house was kept by Mr. Maskell, an Englishman who 
 had formerly resided as a trader at one of the missionary 
 stations. He received us courteously, and expressed sur- 
 prise that we had kept the same horses all the way from 
 Cape Town. We found that a kind of epidemic had been 
 raging among the horses in the districts through which we 
 had passed, and had caused such destruction that traveling 
 was exceedingly difficult. Most of the public conveyances 
 had been discontinued, and many farms were almost entire- 
 ly destitute of horses. This disease had been very severe 
 in many parts of the colony, especially along the road which 
 we had traveled in this day, where a dead horse or a dead 
 ox was frequently to be seen. One day, in particular, we 
 passed many; and observed several places in the bush 
 where nothing but the bones were left, the bodies having 
 been burned to prevent contagion. On the farm adjoining 
 Mr. Maskell's, only thirteen horses remained out of fifty. 
 Another farmer near had lost all. Mr. Maskell had only 
 one left. So far ours had escaped ; but we became every 
 day more apprehensive of losing them. Mr. Maskell led 
 us into a nice clean parlor, well furnished with bookcases ; 
 and among the pictures on the walls I noticed a good por- 
 trait of the late Mr. Wilberforce, and another of the vener- 
 able Eowland Hill. 
 
 In our journey the next day, which lay for the most part 
 over an exceedingly bad road covered almost continually 
 with loose stones, we halted near a bend in the Fish Eiver, 
 when a number of Fingoes came to our wagon, bringing 
 for sale honey and some milk, which we readily purchased, 
 and found very good-tasted. I had frequently observed 
 the curious resorts of the bees, and had more than once 
 been attracted toward them by the call of the honey-bird,
 
 CHAP. viu. VENOMOUS SNAKES. 251 
 
 which Pringle has so graphically and amusingly described 
 in a note to one of his African poems ; but this was the 
 first time I had obtained any honey during my journey. 
 The natives sometimes manifest great shrewdness in dis- 
 covering the haunts of the bees. One of them, going to a 
 fountain, saw some grains of pollen on the grass, and said, 
 "A bee has been here to drink, and there must be honey 
 in the neigborhood :" this he ultimately discovered to be 
 the case. Toward evening we passed Eodewall, where 
 Pringle and his party were so hospitably entertained on 
 the way to their location, and soon after reached Orange 
 Grove, the residence of Mr. James Hart, where we halted 
 for the night. 
 
 His dwelling lies in a sort of wooded hollow at the base 
 of the Bosch Mountains, a neighborhood said to be much 
 infested with reptiles and ferocious animals, and, on my re- 
 turn rather late from a botanizing excursion in a lonely 
 dell, we heard many accounts of the injuries they had in- 
 flicted. The day before our arrival a cobra de capella had 
 sprung at a man who was cutting poles in a glen not far 
 from the house, and a short time before two Caffre children 
 were sitting on the ground outside their hut, when a snake 
 came out of a hole and bit one of them, who died in less 
 than three hours. When bitten by a venomous snake, the 
 natives seek a person called a poison-sucker, generally a 
 bushman, as these people suck the wound with impunity. 
 If no poison-sucker is at hand, they cut open a live fowl at 
 the breast, and press the cut surface against the wounded 
 part, when the fowl soon dies; another is then applied; 
 and the process is thus continued until no effect is pro- 
 duced on the fowl. This neighborhood was also the resort 
 of great numbers of jackals and wolves ; the latter were 
 very destructive to foals, and had been known to attack a 
 horse. Our host had adopted the plan of ridding himself 
 of these enemies by poison. He told us that about two 
 
 I
 
 252 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. vm. 
 
 years before he had got some mix vomica and other poi- 
 sons, mixed them with tallow, and inclosed small lumps of 
 this mixture in pieces of the entrails of sheep, which he 
 dragged about his yard in the evening, and then hung 
 upon a bush, afterward dropping pieces containing poison 
 along the track. The first morning after he had done this, 
 fifteen jackals, and a number of wolves, were found dead 
 about the premises. The leopards, which are also called 
 tigers, and which are much more formidable neighbors, 
 would not take the poison. About a year before our visit 
 a leopard had killed a horse on the adjacent farm. Wild 
 guinea-fowls are numerous in this district, and there are 
 numbers of the useful secretary-birds, which may some- 
 times be seen flying along with a snake in their talons. 
 
 During the late war this part of the country was for 
 some time in the hands of the CafTres, and the brother of 
 our hostess was killed not a mile from the house. Many 
 frightful tragedies were then enacted, some of the details 
 of which we had repeatedly heard since we had been in 
 the district. I was much affected by the accounts I re- 
 ceived of the number of Caffre prisoners who died. Mr. 
 Hart said he visited the place where a great number of 
 them were, and proposed to several mothers to take their 
 children, and feed and care for them, urging them to com- 
 ply rather than keep them and die ; but, although thus re- 
 peatedly urged, not one would give up her child, but de- 
 clared they would rather keep them to die than give them 
 to the white man. He said that many children perished 
 with their mothers from hunger or starvation, self-inflicted. 
 Nothing is so sacred as human life ; no law of human na- 
 ture so strong as that of self-preservation ; and there must 
 have been a more than ordinary cause for such a choice. 
 Before the war commenced, all Mr. Hart's servants depart- 
 ed during the night, leaving behind the cows and goats 
 which they had acquired by their servitude. -A,mong his
 
 CHAP. vm. SOMERSET. GLEN AVON. 253 
 
 servants was a Bushman, his wife, and his aged mother. 
 At the approach of the war, the son took his mother and 
 placed her in a chasm between two rocks, leaving her there 
 to die ; and when his fellow-servants had expostulated with 
 him in vain, they brought the poor woman away, and, at 
 the time of our visit, she was still living with her son and 
 his wife on the farm. 
 
 The horse-sickness was at this time so severe in the 
 neighborhood that we left our horses at Orange Grove, and 
 proceeded with oxen to Somerset, now a thriving village, 
 but formerly a government farm, for many years under the 
 charge of Mr. Hart, the father of our host at Orange Grove. 
 Here I passed the Sunday with Mr. Gregrowsky, the mis- 
 sionary, and his family ; and was pleased with the earnest- 
 ness of some of the people who applied for additional 
 means for the education of their children. Before leav- 
 ing I also visited the beautiful and extensive farm of Glen 
 Avon, about four miles from Somerset, where I was hospi- 
 tably entertained by Mr. Hart, sen., and his daughter Mrs. 
 Stretch. I felt great pleasure in being under the roof of 
 this venerable patriarch, who had been sixty years in the 
 colony, and whose name I had long held in high esteem on 
 account of the kindness he had shown to two justly valued 
 friends one of them Mr. Williams, the devoted missionary 
 to the Caffres, whom I had known in England, and whose 
 name, although he has been dead six-and-thirty years, is still 
 cherished with grateful affection by the people among whom 
 he labored. The widow of this devoted man, suddenly and 
 unexpectedly left alone with two helpless infants, among 
 what were then designated a savage and murderous people, 
 had herself to instruct them how to make a rude coffin and 
 to dig a solitary grave for the remains of her departed hus- 
 band ; and it was in this season of loneliness and trial that 
 she found a prompt and faithful friend in Mr. Hart. Hear- 
 ing of her calamity, he hastened to the spot at the peril of
 
 254 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. vm. 
 
 his own life, endeavoring, with words of kindness, to soothe 
 her anguish, and finally conveying herself and her children, 
 with sympathy and tenderness, from the dreary scene of 
 her recent bereavement to a place of shelter and comfort. 
 The other valued friend, who had subsequently experienced 
 the kindness of Mr. Hart, was Thomas Pringle, one of the 
 gentlest and kindest of men, to whose pure benevolence and 
 high and noble Christian principle South Africa is greatly 
 indebted for some of her present dearest privileges; to whose 
 memory is due a tribute which has yet to be paid, but which, 
 I feel assured, the growing love of liberty and right in that 
 rapidly rising community will not allow to be either over- 
 looked or forgotten. 
 
 Glen Avon is distinguished by fine specimens of European 
 trees and magnificent orchards. I never saw such a collec- 
 tion of noble orange-trees, literally loaded with fruit, some 
 of which was just beginning to turn yellow. Mr. Hart told 
 me his son had sold last year 200,000 oranges, which were 
 carried away by wagonfuls, and sometimes several wagon- 
 fuls at a time, to different parts of the colony ; and he added 
 that during the coming season he expected to have a still 
 larger crop. 
 
 In our walks, we came upon a retired dell in a sort of 
 rocky recess, high above a rippling stream that wound its 
 almost noiseless way among the stones of the wood-covered 
 valley beLow ; and while I was looking at the fruit-bearing 
 olive, the only one I had seen growing by the side of the 
 wild olive of the African wood, I noticed a neat stone-facing 
 of rock- work round a massive door. This, I learned, was 
 the last resting-place of the owner's family a tomb within 
 whose precincts the remains of his wife were already laid. 
 An unusually solemn feeling came over me while standing 
 talking with one who, in the course of nature, would so soon 
 be resting in peaceful silence there. It was a spot appar- 
 ently formed by nature for such a purpose a quiet shel-
 
 CHAP. viu. AT OKANGE GROVE. 255 
 
 tered nook, suck as one would choose for the last long rest- 
 ing-place in death. I more than once had occasion to notice 
 this novel feature of a South African house, as when I visited 
 the tomb of Mr. Anderson's family at Pecaltsdorp, and that 
 of Dr. Philip's family at Hankey, as well as that of Mr. 
 Hart's family here. 
 
 Leaving the missionary and the valued friends we had 
 met with at Somerset, we returned to Orange Grove. Al- 
 though some horses had died at Somerset since our arrival, 
 our own were still safe ; but as we were now proceeding 
 toward the eastern frontier and Caffreland, and our driver 
 expressed his doubts of two of them, as to whether they 
 would be able to travel much farther, we disposed of them 
 to Mr. Hart, and received from him, as exchange in part, 
 ten good strong oxen with which to pursue our journey.
 
 256 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. ix. 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 Journey to Blinkwater. Beacon Hill. Intercourse with Mr. Van Royer 
 and the People. Arrival at Philipton. Venomous Serpents. Instances 
 of their Power over their Prey. Intercourse with the People of the Set- 
 tlement. Gratifying Effects of the Visit from the Governor of the Colo- 
 ny. Sunday at the Kat River. Farewell View of the Settlement. 
 Knapp's Hope in Caffreland. Site of Dr. Vanderkemp's earliest Labors 
 among the Caffres. King William's Town. Agreeable Intercourse with 
 Mr. Brownlee and Jan Tzatzoe. Visit to Peelton. Effects of the La- 
 bors and Influence of Mr. Birt. Journey to Graham's Town. State of 
 the People. Port Elizabeth. Visits to Uitenhage and Bethelsdorp. 
 Hospitality of the People at Hankey. Their Recollections of the Past. 
 Return to Cape Town. Review of the Events and Objects of our Jour- 
 ney. Reflections on the State and Prospects of the Colored Population 
 of the Colony. Return to England. 
 
 Ox the 20th of March we left Orange Grove, crossed the 
 Great Fish Eiver, ascended a long and rather difficult hill, 
 and then entered a vast plain dotted over with large conical- 
 shaped ant-hills, and here and there a few mimosas. Caffre 
 and Fingoe herdsmen were tending the flocks which grazed 
 upon the plain. Traveling over a slightly undulated tract 
 of country, often park-like in the singular clustering trees 
 and rich tall grass that covered its surface, and bordered by 
 ranges or groups of wooded mountains, we passed within a 
 short distance of the Water Kloof, the scene of one of the 
 most sanguinary conflicts which took place between the 
 British troops and the natives during the late war. On the 
 morning of the 22d we reached the military post at Blink- 
 water, and were welcomed by Mr. Van Royer, the missionary 
 who resides in that part of the place called Tidmanton. 
 
 The chapel in this place had been used by the military as 
 a commissariat store ; but a temporary building, for the
 
 CHAP. ix. BEACON HILL. 257 
 
 purpose of public religious worship and instruction, had 
 been erected by the people, who were again gathering to 
 the settlement after the dispersion and devastation of the 
 war. The people were living in temporary huts. Several 
 of them had hung their crops of maize on the branches of 
 trees, or on frames of wood, adjacent to their dwellings. 
 We walked through their grounds, crossed the Kat Eiver, 
 and proceeded some distance through inclosures of maize 
 and Caffre corn, up to a high mountain hi the neighborhood 
 called Beacon Hill. The day was clear, and, on reaching 
 the summit, we enjoyed an extensive view of the country 
 around, comprising mountain, wood, valley, plain, and wind- 
 ing stream, altogether a beautiful and fertile country. This 
 was formerly the residence of Gaika, more recently of Ma- 
 como, his son. A portion of it was occupied by a number 
 of Fingoes ; but, still more recently, a great part of it has 
 been given away in farms of 1500 acres or more to colonial 
 farmers. 
 
 I found, during the walk, many new bulbs ; and saw, on 
 the banks of the Kat Eiver, some gigantic euphorbias, so 
 numerous as to constitute the chief objects along the steep 
 and woody borders of the stream. Some of them were 
 thirty or forty feet high, and two feet thick at the base. 
 Near a place called Gaika's Kraal, I could not refrain from 
 remaining behind to sketch one or two of these singular 
 trees, as well as to dig up bulbs, and gather seeds of a beau- 
 tiful passion-flower and species of creeper bearing a bright 
 orange flower, apparently Cephalandra quinqueldba. In sev- 
 eral places the bright scarlet flowers of the Tecoma capensis 
 added greatly to the richness of the woody scenery of the 
 neighborhood. 
 
 As a drawback to the pleasure derived from these beauti- 
 ful objects, we passed on the same route the body of a large 
 dead puff-adder, a venomous snake very numerous here. 
 Mr. Van Eoyer requested us to keep on the windward side 
 
 K
 
 258 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR CHAP. ix. 
 
 of it, as it was supposed that the effluvium from it was in- 
 jurious. He also told us that, a day or two before, he or- 
 dered three snakes of the same kind, that had been killed, 
 to be buried lest the children should tread on their bones, 
 adding that the wounds thus caused were difficult to heal. 
 
 In the evening we attended a meeting of the people in 
 their chapel, which was well filled. George Pit, an English 
 soldier, interpreted what was said into Dutch, and William 
 Kaye, an intelligent Caffre, gave the substance of the ad- 
 dress in his native tongue. The former, with whom we 
 had a good deal of conversation, had identified himself with 
 the people, and appeared to be a religious man. He had 
 suffered the loss of one of his limbs in the late war. This 
 was the first time I had heard the Caffre language spoken 
 by a native, and, though some of the sounds were novel 
 and not pleasing, the language, as spoken, was certainly soft 
 and euphonious in an unusual degree. 
 
 We had much conversation with the people afterward 
 regarding their temporal circumstances, and could only rec- 
 ommend them to seek from the proper source the redress 
 of the grievances of which they complained. They had 
 suffered greatly from the war and from other causes, espe- 
 pecially from locusts, and from the fatal disease among their 
 horses and cattle, so that they had not a single horse left, 
 and only nine head of cattle, including cows. Under such 
 circumstances some of the families found it difficult to get 
 bread. 
 
 Early the next morning we again met the people in the 
 chapel, and endeavored to address to them some words of 
 encouragement. After taking breakfast with Mr. and Mrs. 
 Van Eoyer, who are both people of color and highly es- 
 teemed by the authorities, as well as others, we commenced 
 our journey. After we had left the village we observed a 
 number of women standing in front of a cluster of acacia 
 bushes by the road-side, and, as we drew near, they began
 
 CHAP. ix. PHILIPTON. SNAKES. 259 
 
 to sing one of their hymns with their peculiarly soft, melo- 
 dious voices. The sound at a short distance produced an 
 exceedingly pleasing effect, and by the time we reached the 
 place where they were standing they had commenced sing- 
 ing in our language the English hymn of which the con- 
 cluding stanza is 
 
 " There we shall meet to part no more. 
 O, that will be joyful," etc. 
 
 When they ceased we alighted, shook hands with them, and 
 parted, not without emotion, which some were unable to 
 conceal. They silently returned to the village, and we 
 pursued our way through the same beautiful and fertile 
 country. 
 
 The low hills and hollows were here covered with wood. 
 The grass by the sides of the road was in some parts two 
 feet high, the soil rich loam, occasionally many feet deep. 
 On our route we passed the Mancazana Mountain and stream, 
 Fort Armstrong, taken by the Caffres, the lofty Chumie 
 Mountains, and the still more lofty " Luheri High," or Gai- 
 ka's Hill, used as a beacon for Caffreland during the late 
 war. Some parts of the road were difficult, and just as we 
 had passed the Buxton Eiver, the sides of which were steep, 
 I got out to walk, and, when a few yards in advance of our 
 oxen, saw a large snake in the middle of the road, which 
 our men soon killed. It was a puff-adder, thick, and about 
 two feet long, and said to be very venomous. 
 
 About dusk we reached Philipton, where we were gladly 
 welcomed by the daughters of the late Mr. Eead, for whom 
 the people had erected a small and comfortable dwelling, 
 every building in the place having been destroyed during 
 the war. "While at tea the conversation turned upon snakes, 
 and our friends told us they were very numerous ; that 
 recently the wife of one of the people, awaking in the night, 
 felt something on her arm, which she took hold of, thinking 
 it was the infant who slept in the same bed, but found it
 
 260 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. ix. 
 
 was a large snake which, had crept between her and the 
 child. It bit her thumb, but the bite did not prove poison- 
 ous. They also confirmed the opinion that the bones of 
 certain snakes are poisonous, stating that, during the late 
 war, a Fingoe when on parole trod on the bones of a ser- 
 pent, and was pierced in the foot. His foot swelled, then 
 his leg, and afterward his whole body, and he died in two 
 months. In this case the wound might have been inflicted 
 by a living snake, but the general opinion is as above 
 stated. 
 
 In a country abounding, as Africa does, with serpents, I 
 expected to hear many anecdotes respecting them ; and con- 
 versing on one occasion with Mr. Pullen, a farmer who has 
 lived many years in the country, and seemed to have paid 
 rather more than usual attention to this species of reptile, 
 he said he once saw a mouse running in a field, and that, 
 coming in sight of a snake, though at a considerable dis- 
 tance, it instantly stopped. The snake fixed its eye on the 
 mouse, which then crept slowly toward the snake, and, as 
 it approached nearer, trembled and shrieked most piteously, 
 but still kept approaching until quite close, when it seemed 
 to become prostrate, and the s'nake then devoured it. On 
 another occasion he had watched a snake capture a mouse 
 in the same manner ; but, as it was retreating, he followed, 
 and struck it on the back with a stick, when it opened its 
 mouth, and the mouse escaping ran for some distance, then 
 fell down, but after a minute recovered and ran away. An- 
 other time he said he watched a snake in the water which 
 had fixed its eye upon a frog sitting among the grass on the 
 bank. The frog, though greatly alarmed, seemed unable to 
 stir, until Mr. Pullen gradually pushed a rush growing near 
 so that it intervened between the eye of the snake and its 
 intended victim, when the frog, as if suddenly liberated, 
 darted away. Mr. Pullen's ideas were in accordance with 
 the popular notion that the snake has the power of exer-
 
 CHAP. ix. VISIT OF THE GOVERNOR. 2GI 
 
 cising some mesmeric or other influence through the steady 
 fixing of its eye, and that whatever intercepts this gaze 
 breaks as it were the charm, and sets the prisoner free. 
 
 Numbers of the people from the adjacent posts came to 
 see us during the forenoon of the next day. Among them, 
 and accompanied by a female attendant, ame Botha's wife, 
 a quiet, respectable, grief-stricken woman, apparently about 
 forty years of age. After sitting in silence some time, she 
 said she came to ask if we could give her any tidings of 
 Botha. He had been implicated in the war, and was at that 
 time suffering his sentence in the colony. She said she had 
 written several times by post, but had received no reply. 
 She was told it was believed he was well, and conducting 
 himself with propriety, but that probably he had not the 
 means of writing to her. She has a son and two daughters, 
 but no means of support, all Botha's land being declared 
 forfeited. We were informed that she is highly respected 
 by the people, who sympathize with her and allow her to 
 cultivate portions of their land for subsistence. 
 
 Among others who came was the schoolmistress of Bux- 
 ton, an intelligent and respectable woman, who deplored 
 the dispersion of her school, and expressed her hopes that 
 the land on which the school stood, and which had been 
 seized, would be restored, the building repaired, and the 
 children again collected for instruction. The seizure has 
 since been declared unlawful, and it is hoped the school will 
 be reopened. A few weeks before our arrival the governor 
 had been at the settlement : he visited the church and school, 
 and called upon the daughters of the late missionary ; he has 
 encouraged them to persevere with the school, and expressed 
 himself to Mr. Green, one of the officers of the church, as 
 pleased with what he saw of the efforts of the people to re- 
 pair the devastations of the war. Sir George Grey also, du- 
 ring his visit, listened with interest and kind feeling to the 
 complaints which some of the people respectfully preferred,
 
 262 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. ix. 
 
 promising that inquiry should be made and wrongs redressed. 
 His visit seems to have left favorable impressions on the 
 missionaries and people at every place, soothing many an 
 anxious spirit, and inspiring hopes of consideration and jus- 
 tice as honorable to himself as it has proved reassuring and 
 cheering to the people. 
 
 Mr. James Bead, the missionary, was absent, being then at 
 the Paarl ; but we spent the day with Mr. Green and the 
 chief men of the place, conversing on the circumstances of 
 the people and the prospects of the mission, and in the 
 evening attended a religious service in the church. 
 
 Next morning by daybreak I was awakened by the sing- 
 ing of the people, who at this early hour commenced their 
 Sabbath services. In the forenoon about five hundred per- 
 sons assembled in the church, all decently clothed in Euro- 
 pean attire, which was the more striking when considered 
 in connection with the recent calamities of the war and their 
 present deep poverty. A small congregation of Fingoes 
 met for worship in the old school-room in the afternoon, 
 and there was a second large assembly in the church in the 
 evening. On these occasions, however imperfect the knowl- 
 edge of the people might be, and however uncertain the 
 source of their emotions as compared with those of the mem- 
 bers of more refined and educated communities, it was not 
 easy to witness scenes such as we then contemplated without 
 being convinced that to these earnest people religion was 
 something more than a form ; that the simple truths of the 
 New Testament, as they had been taught to understand 
 them, supplied a want which they deeply felt, smoothed the 
 ruggedness of their path in the present life, and inspired 
 the hope of a happier future. 
 
 On the following morning we bade adieu to the children 
 in the school, upward of eighty in number, and encouraged 
 their indefatigable teacher to persevere, in the hope of peace 
 and of better days to come. "We also took leave of the
 
 CHAP. ix. KAT EIVER. 2G3 
 
 people, many of whom were assembled in the church. The 
 whole company walked with us through the settlement. 
 When we reached the brow of a hill by the high-road, the 
 women and girls who were standing on both sides of the 
 road began to sing one of their hymns referring to a future 
 meeting in another world. Before they had finished many 
 an eye was suffused with tears, and it may well be supposed 
 that I was not unaffected by the scene. 
 
 From the rising ground on which I stood I looked over 
 the fertile and undulated valley, guarded on two sides by 
 the lofty summits of the Winterberg and the Katberg, at 
 the base of which the Kat Eiver, bordered with flowers, 
 rippled and dashed along, falling over rocks and winding 
 with several bends through the settlement, watering in its 
 course the fields and gardens of the people, now either brown 
 with the stalks of the gathered grain or covered with corn 
 nearly ripe. Here and there two or three goats browsed 
 among the bushes, or stood perched upon the crumbling 
 rocks, while the few cattle which war and disease had left 
 grazed among the thick tall grass in the uninclosed parts 
 of the settlement, tended by a Hottentot or Caffre boy and 
 his dog. In the. centre of this scene stood the bare walls of 
 the large old church, with a smaller and more recent erection 
 by its side, and a little farther off the roofless houses of the 
 missionaries. A large black bird like a raven was perched 
 on the gable end of one of the bare walls ; weeds and flow- 
 ers were growing within the vacant rooms ; the blackened 
 trunks of trees left standing, and the vigorous shoots spring- 
 ing from the stumps of those which had been felled, revealed 
 the devastation that had been made in the orchards and 
 gardens around. Besides these the ruins of former habita- 
 tions of the people appeared on every hand, and near them 
 the low beehive-shaped huts which formed their present 
 shelter and their homes. Around us, in the midst of this 
 diversified scene, were gathered the greater part of the peo-
 
 264 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. ix. 
 
 pie, their hearts overflowing with gladness on finding that, 
 after all they had suffered, there were yet those who could 
 sympathize in their sorrows, and feel and speak kindly to 
 them. Again and again, after the general leave-taking, one 
 and another came to say how grateful to them our visit had 
 been, inspiring hope for the future, and bringing back to their 
 recollections the pleasures of by-gone days, when friendly 
 visits were frequent ; and when I looked around and turned 
 from the landscape to the people, and saw their deep emo- 
 tion, and listened to their parting words, I felt that I could 
 not envy the feelings of any one who could have gazed 
 unmoved on such a scene. 
 
 Soon after we had left the good people at Philipton rain 
 began to fall, and continued during the day ; but though 
 the road was slippery and traveling difficult we arrived 
 soon after dark at the ford of the Chumie Eiver, the banks 
 of which were so steep and slippery that our driver wished 
 to halt until daybreak; but by means of ropes we managed 
 to keep our wagon upright, and soon after crossing reached 
 Macfarlane, where we were welcomed by Mr. M'Dermid of 
 the Scotch mission, and felt grateful for the shelter of his 
 friendly roof during the storm and the rain of the night. 
 
 The next day our driver, who had been engaged with 
 the colonial forces and had been wounded ia the late war, 
 pointed out many scenes of carnage lying in our route. 
 
 Continuing our way over this lately-disputed ground, and 
 having Alice or Fort Hare on our right, and Fort Cox at 
 the foot of the Amatola Mountains on our left, we reached 
 Knapp's Hope, which is pleasantly situated on a grassy 
 slope running down to the Keiskamma Eiver. Here we 
 remained with Mr. Kayser and his family until the follow- 
 ing day, much gratified with the encouraging circumstances 
 under which, assisted efficiently by his son Frederick, he 
 had resumed his labors among the Caffres. A considerable 
 number had gathered around him, and the circular huts
 
 CHAP, ix, SCHOOL. DARK NIGHT. 2G5 
 
 clustered together on the upper side of the slope formed 
 quite a Caffre village. About two hundred acres of land 
 were irrigated and under culture, and from some parts of 
 this maize and Caffre com had already been gathered, while 
 in others the crops were still standing. Another portion 
 of land of equal extent admitted of culture so soon as the 
 people should be able to lead out the water of the river. 
 We held in the evening a deeply-interesting meeting with 
 the chiefs and principal men of two Fingoe villages, one of 
 them twenty miles distant, who had come to ask for a mis- 
 sionary. 
 
 Early the next morning we attended a religious service 
 of the people, and after breakfast visited the school, in which, 
 out of eighty-two scholars on the books, seventy-two were 
 present. The first class read, with considerable ease, a chap- 
 ter from the English Testament. They also recited portions 
 of the Scriptures, and answered questions in arithmetic in 
 English with readiness and accuracy. We then spent some 
 time in conversation with the Fingoe chiefs and people, and 
 in the afternoon resumed our journey. Our kind friends 
 furnished us with a team of oxen to relieve our own, and 
 to expedite our way to the next station ; but soon after we 
 had passed Fort White the night became so dark that our 
 guide declared he could not see his way, and the road was 
 so bad in consequence of the number of deep circular holes 
 that we were obliged to halt until daybreak in the midst of 
 a damp, boggy flat, tying our oxen to the wheels of our 
 wagon to prevent their being lost. 
 
 Starting at daybreak we reached, in two or three hours, 
 Pirie, a Scottish missionary station ; but as Mr. Eoss, the 
 missionary, had gone from home that morning, we contin- 
 ued our journey, though not without regarding with pecul- 
 iar interest, among many surrounding objects, the garden 
 and the trees, one of which was planted by Vanderkemp. 
 Our driver pointed out to us the spot where the son of Mr.
 
 266 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. is. 
 
 Brownlee, the missionary of King William's Town, was 
 killed by the CafFres in the commencement of the late war, 
 and he added that he was himself one of the soldiers who 
 carried his body home. Much of the space over which we 
 traveled this day is to missionaries a sort of classic ground. 
 Before reaching Pirie we passed over the spot where Dr. 
 Vanderkemp, half a century ago, built his grass-roofed mis- 
 sionary hut, kneeling down when he had cut the first bun- 
 dle of grass to thank God for a home in the wilderness. A 
 little farther along the Debe we crossed a couple of streams 
 at a spot where the same pioneer of missionaries to Caffre- 
 land had dwelt for some time. 
 
 The same afternoon we reached King William's Town, a 
 place of some importance, and the chief military post on the 
 frontier, pleasantly situated on the banks of the Buffalo Kiv- 
 er. Most of the houses appeared to be recent erections ; a 
 few in the military quarter were shaded by trees and sur- 
 rounded by gardens, the spots formerly cultivated by Mr. 
 Brownlee and Jan Tzatzoe. On reaching the house of the 
 former, which is situated near the Caffre village, in the 
 outskirts of the town, we were cordially welcomed by Mr. 
 Brownlee, a "tall, plain, Scottish man," as Pringle calls 
 him, venerable from years, virtues, and wrongs. He led us 
 into his neat, comfortable house, and introduced us to his 
 family. After traversing the desert, it was quite refreshing 
 to see on the table of the room in which we sat a vase of 
 newly-gathered flowers, comprising roses, balsams, petunias, 
 and verbenas, with others of native growth. 
 
 In the evening I walked with Mr. Brownlee through his 
 garden, where I was agreeably surprised to find, besides 
 peaches, figs, apricots, and grapes, a number of our choicest 
 sorts of plums, pears, and apples. The former do not thrive 
 well ; but, among the latter, New Town Pippin, Eibstone 
 Pippin, Lemon Pippin, and others, were doing well. Along 
 his veranda TCas trained a -large fragrant white ipomsea
 
 CHAP. ix. EFFECTS OF MR. BIRT'S LABORS. 267 
 
 from Natal. Leaving the garden, we walked over tlie ad- 
 jacent country along the course by which he had brought 
 water from a distance of two miles to the town. Mr. 
 Brownlee is quite a botanist, and it was a great treat to 
 walk with him among the varied vegetation of Caffreland. 
 The most beautiful plant we saw was a dwarf species of 
 erythrina, crowded with rich scarlet blossoms. Besides this 
 there were some splendid specimens of leonotis, with scar- 
 let-tinted orange flowers. 
 
 The next day we were joined by Mr. Birt from Peelton, 
 and met the people to deliberate upon the state of the mis- 
 sion. Jan Tzatzoe, whom I had known in England, was 
 present, and dined with us afterward. The next morning 
 I accompanied Mr. Brownlee three or four miles up the Buf- 
 falo Kiver, and, entering the bush, cut a piece from the 
 branch of a tree covered with orchids, which I ultimately 
 succeeded in bringing home safely. On returning we pro- 
 ceeded over a rich grassy country to Peelton, about nine 
 miles distant, where I met with a hospitable reception from 
 Mr. Birt 
 
 This important station was entirely destroyed during the 
 late war ; but, since the missionary and the people who re- 
 tired to Fort Beaufort have returned, a good building has 
 been erected, which at present serves the double purpose of 
 chapel and school. The mission family have a neat, com- 
 fortable house, and the natives have erected a number of 
 temporary dwellings. This station is one of the most im- 
 portant in the country, situated on the border of Caffreland 
 and the royal reserves, and a considerable population have 
 already gathered around. In the evening I walked out 
 with Mr. Birt along the course of the river, passing a num- 
 ber of plantations, in some of which the people were at 
 work. The land seemed to be exceedingly good, and capa- 
 ble of greatly extended cultivation. 
 
 The Sabbath which I spent at this station was a day of
 
 2G8 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. ix. 
 
 much interest. The Sunday-school was thronged, and many 
 of the children read the English Scriptures remarkably well. 
 The place of worship was so small that only adults could 
 be admitted ; all the young people, therefore, were obliged 
 to remain away. About two hundred communicants par- 
 took of the ordinance of the Lord's Supper with great pro- 
 priety and seriousness of demeanor. Throughout the day 
 I was struck with the earnestness and gravity which char- 
 acterized the Caffres in their language and behavior. Their 
 singing was remarkably correct, their voices good, and they 
 avoided an error which I had observed elsewhere that of 
 being much too loud. 
 
 The next day the missionaries stationed among the Caf- 
 fres held at Peelton their quarterly meeting, and we were 
 glad to be present to confer with them unitedly on the prog- 
 ress of their important work. The communications made 
 by the missionaries present respecting the spiritual state of 
 their people were far more satisfactory and encouraging 
 than could have been expected, considering how recent was 
 the termination of the war and how disastrous its effects. 
 They were all likewise much encouraged by the favorable 
 manner in which the governor, on his late visit to the Caffre 
 frontier, had noticed their labors, assuring them of his satis- 
 faction, and of his assistance, as far as practicable, in pro- 
 moting on a religious basis what he regarded as of the ut- 
 most importance the education, industry, and general civ- 
 ilization of the people. 
 
 On the following day, the 3d of April, we visited the 
 schools, and were exceedingly gratified with the extent to 
 which English was taught, and with the general proficiency 
 of the scholars. "We then held a meeting with the people, 
 and afterward visited some of the Christian families at their 
 own habitations. In the course of the afternoon, after tak- 
 ing leave of our hospitable friends, we returned to King 
 "William's Town ; and here bidding farewell to Mrs. Brown-
 
 CHAP. ix. GRAHAM'S TOWN. 269 
 
 lee and her family, we crossed the Buffalo Kiver, and com- 
 menced our homeward course. 
 
 Should peace remain unbroken, and the enlightened pol- 
 icy of the governor, its surest guarantee, be continued, there 
 would seem to be a happier future in prospect for the Caffre 
 nation. If they have the means of sound practical educa- 
 tion, comprising a knowledge of the useful arts, together 
 with faithful religious teaching, there is no sufficient reason 
 to doubt the advancement of this interesting people in all 
 that belongs to the well-being of men in the present life and 
 their hopes of that which is to come. 
 
 On the 4th we crossed the Keiskamma at Line Drift. 
 The bottom of the stream was rocky and the waters turbid, 
 but we crossed in safety, though the governor's party, in 
 crossing at the same place a few weeks before, lost one of 
 their wagons and a team of mules, all being swept down the 
 stream. Continuing our way, we passed Fort Peddie, and 
 crossed the Fish Kiver at Trumpeter's Drift, where another 
 of the governor's wagons had been carried down the stream, 
 and the mules only saved by being cut loose and swimming 
 to the shore. The wagon was lying among the bushes at 
 some distance down the river at the time we passed. The 
 owner of an accommodation house on the bank of the river 
 told us that accidents were frequent with the natives, who 
 remained in the wagons shouting to the oxen, but that white 
 men generally had persons in the stream to keep the oxen 
 up. Pursuing our journey, and passing the night, which 
 was wet and cold, on the high ground beyond Driver's Hill, 
 we reached Graham's Town in the forenoon of the 6th of 
 April. This young African city is pleasantly situated in 
 the midst of an amphitheatre of grassy mountains. The 
 streets are wide and regularly laid out; the houses neat, 
 generally white or yellow, and numbers of them shaded 
 with trees; the Episcopalian, Methodist, and Independent 
 churches and chapels being conspicuous among the build-
 
 270 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. ix. 
 
 ings of the place. The population of Graham's Town was 
 stated to be 12,000, of which one third are colored, viz., the 
 Hottentots, Caffres, and Fingoes. 
 
 Here we remained four days the guests of Mr. Smith, the 
 excellent missionary of the station, a man apparently well 
 qualified for his somewhat difficult position, combining with 
 a gentle spirit, modest, unobtrusive demeanor, and good 
 judgment, unimpeachable integrity and great moral courage. 
 During our stay we visited the Hottentot location, which 
 still presents affecting memorials of the sufferings of the 
 people ; but, notwithstanding all, they did not seem to have 
 lost heart. Large congregations assembled in their sub- 
 stantial stone chapel, which they have recently enlarged, 
 listening intelligently to sermons in the English language. 
 The public meetings we held were satisfactory, and the ac- 
 count given us by the missionary of the state of religion 
 among them was encouraging. Grateful for the -kindness 
 experienced here from Mr. Thompson, minister of the Inde- 
 pendent chapel, and from a number of Christian friends, we 
 proceeded onward to Port Elizabeth, where I was glad to 
 find accommodation under the same roof with Mr. and Mrs. 
 Eobson, the latter of whom, formerly Mrs. Williams, I had 
 known in England many years before. 
 
 At this rising, prosperous, and important town, the port 
 of the eastern provinces of the colony, we remained nearly 
 a fortnight, grateful for the hospitality we received from Mr. 
 Harsent and his family, as well as other Mends, and en- 
 couraged by witnessing the beneficial effects of missionary 
 labors among people of color, both Hottentots and Fingoes. 
 During this period I spent a Sunday and part of two days 
 with Mr. Paterson at the pleasantly-situated and well- wa- 
 tered village of Uitenhage, and was thus made acquainted 
 with the many grounds of encouragement which cheer the 
 missionary in his labors among the colonial people of color 
 and the Fingoes. At Bethelsdorp, where Mr. Merrington,
 
 CHAP. ix. HANKEY. DR. PHILIP. 271 
 
 notwithstanding the discouragements of the locality, still 
 continues his indefatigable labors, we met the missionaries 
 of the district at their periodical gathering, and were glad 
 thus to confer with them unitedly on the affairs of their 
 several stations. 
 
 At Port Elizabeth we disposed of our wagon and oxen, 
 trusting for the remainder of the journey to the kindness 
 of friends and to hired conveyances, chiefly the rough and 
 rapidly -traveling mail-carts. On the 24th of April we left 
 Algoa Bay,, and in the evening of the following day arrived 
 at Hankey, on the Gamtoos River, having traveled in a wag- 
 on which Mr. Durant Philip had kindly sent for us. Here 
 and at the adjacent branch station of Kruis Fontayn we re- 
 mained a week, and, among other objects of interest, visited 
 the tunnel which with great labor has been cut through the 
 mountain for the purpose of conveying the water of the 
 river over a large tract of fertile and valuable land. 
 
 In a secluded spot in the mission garden, and under the 
 shade of a large weeping- willow, repose the mortal remains 
 of Dr. Philip, also those of his estimable wife, his oldest 
 
 son, and other branches of his family. I felt a mournful 
 ...... * 
 
 satisfaction in visiting the spot, believing, as I do, that high 
 
 as is the estimation in which his memory is held by many, 
 coming generations in South Africa will value him even 
 more highly, and will class him among their sincerest friends, 
 and ascribe to him an honorable position among the earli- 
 est advocates of civil and religious liberty in that country. 
 Before we left, the people of Hankey, and those of Kruis 
 Fontayn, invited us to a public tea -meeting at their re- 
 spective stations, a sort of African soiree, which was con- 
 ducted with great propriety and much good feeling at both 
 places. The meeting at Hankey was held in the only large 
 building in the place, which at present serves the double 
 purpose of church and school. More than 200 persons were 
 present, occupying seats on both sides of the building, while
 
 272 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. ix. 
 
 a line of tables, covered with crockery and dishes of cakes 
 of different kinds, was extended along the centre. Mr. 
 Philip presided, a number of females had charge of the ta- 
 bles, and the tea and cakes were carried on trays to the 
 company with readiness and order. The social entertain- 
 ment was at intervals enlivened with singing by the natives, 
 both in English and Dutch. Mr. Philip has paid much at- 
 tention to this important part of his people's education, and 
 must feel amply rewarded in witnessing the proficiency of 
 many of his pupils. One young African mother, with a 
 child in her arms, seemed to possess an unusually mellow 
 voice. Sometimes a select few sang a favorite piece, and at 
 other times a larger number joined. There was no need for 
 repeated solicitations before commencing, and there were no 
 plaudits at the close ; but to both singers and listeners it 
 seemed to afford a high degree of enjoyment. 
 
 Speeches were delivered in the intervals between the 
 singing, and the addresses of some of the men were exceed- 
 ingly striking. There was no previously arranged pro- 
 gramme of subjects to be discussed, but each one spoke 
 from the promptings of his own feelings. On this account 
 it was curious to note the different tenor of the remarks as 
 indicating the tone and current of their thoughts. Little 
 reference was made to the future. Hope did not seem to 
 have presented unsubstantial pictures to their fancy ; but 
 memory was busy with the past, which was brought back 
 in deeply affecting contrast with the present. One man of 
 considerable property and fair reputation, who, I think, 
 pays for his son's education at the seminary, said, when al- 
 luding to the domestic comforts of his family, " I was torn 
 when an infant from my mother's breast, sold to a dealer, 
 who carried me away, and I never saw my mother again. 
 She was a slave, and I was born a slave, and, as such, sold 
 by my own father." Another, in the course of his remarks, 
 said, " I was only so high," holding up his stick, " when I
 
 CHAP. ix. HUMANSDORP. 273 
 
 was placed upon the end of a barrel, and the auctioneer 
 made me swing my arms about and turn myself round 
 while the people bid for me." Another said, "Instead of 
 a place of light and cheerfulness like this, I remember when 
 I have sought the darkest dell or the craggiest rock, and 
 when the chafing of the rushes or the falling of a withered 
 bough has made my heart beat and my whole frame trem- 
 ble." These, with some truly tragic scenes, were the kinds 
 of pictures which memory presented, and which they con- 
 trasted with the present as incentives to' gratitude and stim- 
 ulants to effort, so as to insure still greater benefits than 
 those already enjoyed. Their frequent allusion to their 
 children as ignorant of what their fathers had suffered, and 
 therefore in danger of undervaluing the religious teaching 
 of the missionaries, with other means of improvement, ap- 
 peared to me exceedingly appropriate. The engagements 
 at both places closed with prayer, and I retired gratified 
 with the occasion thus afforded of witnessing and sharing 
 the social enjoyments of the people. 
 
 On the 3d of May we proceeded to Humansdorp, nine 
 miles from Kruis Fontayn, and then continued our jour- 
 ney to Avontuur in Long Kloof, where we spent the Sab- 
 bath pleasantly with Mr. Hood and his family, endeavoring 
 to. encourage the people, who, after many years' residence 
 there, were obliged, at great inconvenience and loss, to seek 
 another position. They had purchased land at some dis- 
 tance, and the missionary was preparing to accompany them 
 to their future home. 
 
 Leaving Avontuur and descending the Montague pass, 
 we revisited Pecaltsdorg, and held a more satisfactory meet- 
 ing with the people. We also visited Zuurbraak, where the 
 people prepared a public breakfast, which was followed by 
 an encouraging public meeting. I had sketched a number 
 of natural objects during my journey, and on our way to 
 this station I added a drawing of a beautiful Aloe ferox in 
 
 S
 
 274 
 
 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. 
 
 ZAJIIA CAFFBA. 
 
 ALOB VULGABI8. 
 
 (Medicinal aloe.) 
 
 ALOE FEROX. 
 
 flower. I had previously sketched the Aloe vulgaris, which 
 abounds near Bethelsdorp. The gum of this plant, the me- 
 dicinal aloe of commerce, is gathered by the natives of Beth- 
 elsdorp, and sold to the traders. I had also sketched a za- 
 mia-tree, growing near the Gamtoos Eiver. Leaving Zuur- 
 braak I proceeded, in company with Messrs. Helm and An- 
 derson, to Swellendam, where, after a short rest under the 
 hospitable roof of Dr. Eobertson, I was able, notwithstand- 
 ing some indisposition, to continue the journey with my 
 friends to Cape Town, which place we reached in safety on 
 the 19th of May, thankful for preservation throughout our 
 wanderings and for the many blessings by which the jour- 
 ney had been attended. 
 
 Among the many impressions which the journey now 
 closed has left upon my mind, few are more agreeable than
 
 CHAP. ix. STATE OF THE MISSIONS. 275 
 
 those produced by the hospitality which we almost invari- 
 ably experienced. With the families of the missionaries at 
 the various stations I naturally felt at home ; but at other 
 places, especially among the Dutch boers, or farmers, we 
 were perfect strangers, and, excepting in one or two in- 
 stances, when the companionship of a missionary from the 
 neighborhood indicated in some degree the object of our 
 journey, we appeared as ordinary travelers ; yet we were al- 
 ways received courteously and kindly helped on our way. 
 Our journey was in furtherance of a religious object, and 
 our intercourse chiefly with the colored people. The Lon- 
 don Missionary Society, by which I had been requested to 
 undertake this journey, had been for many years engaged 
 in endeavors to effect the conversion of the heathen races in 
 the country by educating them and teaching them in the 
 simplest manner the truths of the Christian religion. These 
 endeavors had not been in vain. In the several places oc- 
 cupied by the missionaries numbers of the colored people 
 were now united in organized Christian communities, hav- 
 ing respectively their churches or chapels, schools, and oth- 
 er means of religious and social improvement. The efforts 
 directed to the accomplishment of these ends had been sus- 
 tained by the society at home for more than half a century. 
 The great and important political changes which had taken 
 place in the colony during that period had placed the col- 
 ored people on a footing of civil equality with other classes, 
 and had secured to them the fruits of their enterprise, in- 
 dustry, and skill, and thus placed within their reach the 
 means of sustaining the ordinances of religion among them- 
 selves, and leaving the society in England free to extend 
 the knowledge of the Gospel to other nations. Something 
 had been done by the African Christians toward this latter 
 object, as they had for some years contributed toward the 
 funds of the society in England ; but their own pastors, and 
 in some instances the schoolmasters, were still supported,
 
 276 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. DC. 
 
 not by the churches themselves, though some of these had 
 been organized forty years, but by the distant society in En- 
 gland. It had been for some time felt that a step still far- 
 ther in advance might be made with advantage to the peo- 
 ple themselves, inducing greater self-reliance and imparting 
 stability to the Christian institutions among them, by their 
 undertaking the recognized duty of sustaining the means 
 of their own spiritual improvement, yet retaining intimate 
 Christian and fraternal relationship with the churches in 
 England, and receiving such supplementary aid as their 
 circumstances might for a season still render necessary. To 
 inquire as to the practicability of this change, and to confer 
 with the missionary pastors and their respective flocks on 
 the best mode of effecting it, were the chief objects of the 
 visit I had now made ; and it had afforded me much pleas- 
 ure to observe the principle that it was the duty of every 
 Christian community to maintain the ordinances of religion 
 among its own members, and then to extend the knowledge 
 of the Gospel to others, readily acknowledged, and to re- 
 ceive the most frank and cordial assurance of sincere co- 
 operation on the part of the missionary pastors and their 
 people in carrying out these views assurances which have 
 since been most honorably and generously acted upon. 
 
 The conversion of the natives to Christianity, though the 
 primary and paramount object of the missionary, had una- 
 voidably involved attention to many secular matters con- 
 nected with their temporal affairs and social progress, and 
 the more prominent indications of their present state in these 
 respects could scarcely fail to attract observation. I am fully 
 aware that the brief period of little more than five months, 
 during which I remained in the country, and the compara- 
 tively hurried visits which I made to the several stations, 
 could but ill qualify me for forming very strong or definite 
 opinions on the actual condition of the people. Yet there 
 were several points connected with these which repeatedly
 
 CHAP. ix. STATE OF THE MISSIONS. 277 
 
 forced themselves on my notice. Prominent and most im- 
 portant among them was a general and earnest solicitude on 
 the subject of personal religion. The missionaries at most 
 of the stations testified that, notwithstanding the ungodli- 
 ness existing among many portions of the colored people 
 who made no profession of religion, and the defections of 
 those who did, there appeared to be at the present time a 
 growing and more than ordinary desire after religious in- 
 struction, and an increasing sense of its value and its ne- 
 cessity. This feeling, it was stated, was not confined to the 
 colored people, but prevailed in some cases among the white 
 inhabitants ; and not the least pleasing feature in many of 
 the public services which we attended was the presence of 
 a number of white persons, resident in the neighborhood. 
 These were sometimes sitting in the same seat with the na- 
 tives, or in pews standing side by side, and often intermin- 
 gled with those occupied by persons of color. Should this 
 state of feeling continue, it may be justly regarded as one 
 of the surest foundations of both temporal and spiritual ad- 
 vancement. 
 
 Contrasted with this ground of encouragement, were 
 sources of apprehension arising from the limited amount 
 and the imperfect quality of the education obtained by them. 
 This appeared traceable in some places to the inadequate 
 means of instruction within their reach, in others to the ina- 
 bility of the parents to send their children to school, or to 
 their insensibility to its advantages. In connection with 
 this subject, parental discipline, the enlightened and judi- 
 cious authority of the parent over the child, seemed to be 
 but seldom exercised. 
 
 Another source of apprehension arises from the fact that 
 the young people growing up without personal experience 
 of the miseries of slavery, and consequently without the 
 stimulus to self-improvement which the remembrance sup- 
 plied to their parents, are in danger of deeming the restraints
 
 278 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. ix. 
 
 of school irksome and unnecessary. The Hottentots par- 
 ticularly, from the natural weakness of character which, 
 notwithstanding many truly amiable traits, they exhibit, 
 seem to prefer an easy, listless mode of life to the self-denial, 
 energy, forethought, and enterprise which the maintenance 
 of their present position will require, to say nothing of their 
 progressive advancement. Persons of this class appear too 
 often contented if their physical wants are supplied, or the 
 means of immediate gratification, however expensive to 
 them, secured, and consequently live as if but for the day, 
 trusting to the future to provide for itself. There were 
 some striking exceptions to these characteristics. But still, 
 with regard to the Hottentots especially, the existence of 
 this downward tendency can not be regarded with indiffer- 
 ence ; for, without a change, they must either become mere 
 hewers of wood and drawers of water to others, or, as a race, 
 gradually melt away. It is this weakness of character which 
 makes persons of this class, when destitute of religious prin- 
 ciple, fall so easily into the temptations which the canteens 
 or other sources of drunkenness and poverty present. 
 
 Next to the benefits of religious instruction, the friends of 
 the colored people appear to be especially required, in the 
 present state of society, to aid and guide them in seeking 
 for themselves progressive improvement ; to make them dis- 
 satisfied with a low position in the social scale, and to awaken 
 yearnings and stimulate efforts after something better ; to 
 impress upon them the absolute necessity of education at 
 any cost, with more of self-reliance, and the conviction that 
 the future depends not upon others but upon themselves. 
 
 But while causes of anxiety like these were not wanting, 
 there were other subjects of consideration peculiarly cheer- 
 ing. Many of the colored people, formerly slaves, have won 
 their way to competence, if not to wealth, to social comfort, 
 and to positions of influence in society, being held in just 
 and general esteem by all classes of the community. Ee- 

 
 CHAP. ix. GOOD-FEELING BETWEEN CLASSES 279 
 
 ligion had taught them frugality and temperance. When 
 they became their own masters, industry and skill brought 
 their appropriate reward, while their strength of character 
 and consistency of conduct secured them respect and enti- 
 tled them to be numbered, not only among the best friends 
 of their race, but the most valuable members of the com- 
 munity examples of what, it is to be hoped, will one day 
 form a numerous portion of the people, viz., a hardy, active, 
 intelligent, and upright middle class. This, with God's 
 blessing may be their future, if they are wisely counseled, 
 and are true to themselves. 
 
 Nor must I omit to mention that I found there existed 
 among the colonists more consideration and kindness to- 
 ward the colored people altogether, with a more natural and 
 healthy state of feeling, than had at all times existed. The 
 present laws, the recent Constitution which had given so 
 many of the colored people the elective franchise, the en- 
 lightened views expressed by some of the leading men in 
 the colony, the good conduct of many of the native Africans, 
 and the enlightened and judicious measures of the governor, 
 may have unitedly contributed to this. But to whatever 
 cause it is to be ascribed, it is alike honorable to the white 
 man and beneficial to the colored, and it will be regarded 
 by the best friends of the country as an earnest of the time 
 when equity, and good faith, and right feeling shall charac- 
 terize the intercourse of the several classes with each other, 
 and constitute them one united, loyal, and prosperous com- 
 munity. 
 
 Having remained at Cape Town two or three weeks after 
 the termination of my journey, I embarked on board the 
 steam-ship Pacific from Australia on the 14th of June; 
 and, after touching at St. Helena, St. Vincent, and Madeira, 
 reached England on the 18th of July, 1855, grateful to the 
 Almighty Disposer of all things for the health and the mer- 
 ciful protection I had experienced throughout my wander- 
 ings.
 
 280 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. x. 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 Overland Route to Pointe de Galle. Detention in Ceylon. Voyage to 
 Mauritius. Arrival in Madagascar. Signs of increasing Traffic at Tama- 
 tave. First Night on shore. General Fondness of the People for Music. 
 Introduction of the Violin. Dinner with the Governor. Deaths of 
 former Friends. Applications for Medicine. Presents from the Princes. 
 Visit from the Governor and Suite. Astonishment excited by the Elec- 
 tric Telegraph. The Queen's Preference for running Messengers rather 
 than the Wires. Native Work in Iron. Iron-smelting. Native Smiths. 
 Message of Condolence from the Queen to a bereaved Family at Tama- 
 tave. Mode of estimating the Worth of the deceased. Homage to the 
 dead. Scenes of Riot and Drunkenness. The Governor's Dinner to the 
 Officers from the Capital. Bearers engaged for the Journey. The Gov- 
 ernment Seamstresses. 
 
 BEFORE leaving the Cape of Good Hope, in 1855, 1 had 
 received a letter from the Malagasy government, conveying 
 to Mr. Cameron and myself permission to proceed to the 
 capital ; and before the close of the year a second letter to 
 the same effect reached me in London. Mr. Cameron, then 
 residing at the Cape, had expressed his willingness to ac- 
 company me ; and as the permission, forwarded in this in- 
 stance without solicitation on our part, might be regarded 
 almost as an invitation, I did not feel it right to refuse to 
 undertake another visit to the country. 
 
 For this purpose, I embarked in one of the Peninsula 
 and Oriental Company's steamers at Southampton, on the 
 20th of March, 1856. We touched at Gibraltar and Malta, 
 landed at Alexandria, and pursued the now often-traversed 
 overland route to Suez. Here we embarked again on board 
 the Nubia, sailed down the Bed Sea to Aden, and then, 
 crossing the Indian Ocean to Ceylon, landed at Pointe de
 
 CHAP. x. KETURN TO TAMATAVE. 281 
 
 Galle, on tlie 21st of April, thirty-two days from South- 
 ampton. 
 
 A severe hurricane had disabled the vessel sent from 
 Mauritius for the mails from England and India, in conse- 
 quence of which we were detained nearly five weeks in 
 Ceylon. This afforded me an opportunity of observing, to 
 a limited extent, the varied scenery and luxuriant vege- 
 tation of that beautiful island ; of visiting some of the 
 shrines of idolatry, and the scenes of missionary labor ; as 
 well as of receiving the hospitality and kindness of mission- 
 ary friends in this part of the island. Deeply as I regretted 
 at the time this detention at Ceylon, I could not but feel 
 grateful when I afterward learned that by the delay thus 
 occasioned I had avoided the perils of the sea, as well as 
 the ravages of the cholera, which had again visited Mauri- 
 tius almost immediately before my arrival. 
 
 On the 24th of May I left Colombo on board the Star 
 of the East, and reached Mauritius on the 17th of June. 
 Here I experienced a repetition of the generous hospitality 
 which had been shown during my former visits ; and though 
 disappointed at finding that engagements at the Cape pre* 
 vented Mr. Cameron from joining me, I prepared without 
 delay for departing alone for Madagascar. The assistance 
 of friends was cheerfully afforded in the needful prepara- 
 tions for the voyage. Messrs. 1'Estrange and Co. generously 
 gave me a passage in the Castro, one of the best vessels 
 in the trade, and on the 9th of July I embarked in the same 
 vessel in which I had returned from Madagascar in 1854. 
 
 Three days of pleasant sailing brought us in sight of the 
 coast, and by noon on the following day we anchored off 
 Tamatave, where the officers of the port and other natives, 
 as well as the European residents, expressed their pleasure 
 at my arrival. 
 
 The next morning, when I went on shore to inquire after 
 a dwelling, I was met at the custom-house by one of the
 
 
 282 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. x. 
 
 officers of the port, who led me to a large newly-built house, 
 situated within an inclosure in the centre of the village ; 
 and, having shown me the three several rooms, the floors 
 of which were boarded, and the walls covered with matting, 
 he informed me that it was at my service so long as I might 
 require it. On my asking the terms, he said no payment 
 was required; but, at the same time, intimated that he 
 wished to have the refusal of an officer's cocked hat which 
 he understood the captain of the ship had for sale. 
 
 In walking through the village I was struck with the 
 change which the opening of the trade after our visit in 
 1853 had produced. The native population appeared to 
 have been greatly increased ; a number of houses for for- 
 eign traders had been built, and others were in course 
 of erection ; among them, and not far from the landing- 
 place, a hotel or boarding-house, the first ever erected in 
 Madagascar. Considerable quantities of rice appeared to 
 be collected for exportation. Cargoes of horned cattle were 
 said to be easily obtained, and upward of 4000 head of cat- 
 tle had, since the opening of the trade, been annually ex- 
 ported to Mauritius alone. The trade of the port was not 
 at that time considered to be active and flourishing. There 
 had been but few native dealers from the capital, and ru- 
 mors were afloat among the people of an armed expedition, 
 from France and England combined, against Madagascar, 
 which had produced an effect unfavorable to the commerce 
 of the island. 
 
 As soon as my packages were landed and passed through 
 the custom-house, I took up my residence- on shore. The 
 first night in my new habitation contrasted strangely with 
 the solitude and stillness of the nights I had passed on the 
 sea. Night seemed to be the holiday season of the slaves 
 of both sexes, whose voices, with those of other classes of the 
 community, were heard in every direction, mingled with the 
 beating of tomtoms, or native drums, and a rude sort of
 
 CHAT. x. NATIVE MUSICIANS AND MUSIC. 283 
 
 singing, with but little intermission, from soon after sunset 
 until midnight, especially at the low houses at which native 
 arrack was sold. Besides this, a house on the outside of 
 the fence inclosing that in which I resided seemed to be the 
 abode of a company of musicians, who with drums, fifes, 
 tambourines, clarionets, and triangles, or exchanging these 
 for two or three violins, gathered within and around their 
 dwelling a considerable crowd throughout the early part of 
 night. By daybreak in the morning the drums or violins 
 of my neighbors were also in frequent requisition ; and few 
 were the hours of the day excepting those of extreme heat 
 during which their music was not heard. A number of 
 strangers who came to my house on the following day earn- 
 estly inquired whether I had any violins for sale, and this 
 instrument appeared to have become quite popular among 
 certain classes of the people since my visits in 1853 and 1854. 
 On the second day after my arrival I accompanied a chief 
 to the residence of one of the officers of the port. On en- 
 tering his house, the walls and floor of which were neatly 
 covered with mats, we found him sitting in an .arm-chair, 
 his spear and round wooden shield covered with bullock's 
 hide hanging on the wall behind him. Two or three chiefs 
 were standing on one side of him, and his wife, and her sis- 
 ter, and a female assistant sitting on the other ; and on the 
 opposite side of the room half a dozen Malagasy musicians, 
 some* in native costume, others in shirts and trowsers, all 
 sitting on the floor, one thrumming the native valiha, and 
 the rest scraping the violin with great earnestness, beating 
 time all the while with their heels on the floor. They ceased 
 soon after we had entered ; but while we were talking an 
 officer from the governor approached, and as soon as he was 
 announced the natives commenced their music, which they 
 continued until after he was seated ; and when he rose to 
 depart they began again, and continued as long as it was 
 supposed he could hear. This, I was informed, was in com- 
 pliment to the visitor.
 
 284 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. x. 
 
 Many of my former friends came to visit me in the course 
 of the day ; and, among other indications of welcome, I re- 
 ceived a note from the governor, inviting me to a dinner to 
 be given on the same day to a foreigner about to proceed to 
 the capital. I was but ill prepared to appear at a public 
 dinner, and should have preferred being omitted in the 
 number of guests at this festive gathering ; but, as the gov- 
 ernor seldom invited the foreigners at the port to meet him, 
 and I might have been considered wanting in respect to the 
 authorities of the place had I declined, particularly as the 
 invitation came from two sources and was intended as a 
 mark of respect, I gratefully accepted it as such. 
 
 The two officers sent to conduct me to the place walked 
 on each side of me, one having a spear in his hand, the 
 other a naked sword. On arriving at the house of the chief 
 judge, where the company were assembled, the governor 
 and other chief officers gave me a very cordial welcome. 
 Having placed me next to himself at dinner, the governor, 
 who had been long a pupil of the missionaries and speaks 
 English tolerably well, conversed in the most friendly man- 
 ner during the evening, and, when he proposed my health, 
 wished me a pleasant journey to the capital. I was some- 
 what surprised to find my friend the harbor-master in the 
 company, and to see him whom I had visited and left ill 
 in bed in the morning dancing with a Frenchman in the 
 evening. 
 
 It would have been deemed disrespectful for any one to 
 depart before the health of the queen had been drunk by 
 the company ; but as soon as this had been done I took my 
 leave of the governor and his companions, and reached my 
 residence about nine o'clock. Here I found many of my 
 former friends, some of whom had come from a distance ; 
 and with them I remained in deeply -interesting conversa- 
 tion until a late hour. From them I now learned that the 
 circumstances of my friends in general were favorable ; that
 
 CHAP. x. VISITS OF WELCOME FROM THE NATIVES. 285 
 
 some from the interior whom on my former visit I had left 
 prostrate with the fever had recovered ; while four other 
 valued Christian friends, some of whom had slept in my 
 house in order to be with me during the last night I had 
 passed on the shore, and who had accompanied me to the 
 canoe that was waiting at the water's edge on the bright, 
 beautiful moonlight morning in which I had sailed from 
 Madagascar in 1844, had been cut off by fever. They were 
 all in the prime of life ; two of them men of great promise ; 
 one a remarkably inquiring, intelligent, and amiable young 
 man, an aid-de-camp of the prince, and about twenty -four 
 years of age ; the other, whom I used to call " my tall friend," 
 the son-in-law of the governor of an adjacent province, a 
 sort of agent of the prince, and to me a most attached and 
 consistent Christian friend. He had died of fever in his 
 thirty-third year, leaving a widow and family at the capital. 
 
 On the morning after my visit to the governor I rose soon 
 after daybreak, but almost before I was dressed friends came 
 with tokens of their good- will among them a chief and his 
 wife, followed by a little slave girl, bringing, along with oth- 
 er presents, a bottle of sweet new milk ; and, as they learn- 
 ed that this was peculiarly acceptable, they continued to 
 send it every morning so long as I remained at Tamatave. 
 
 I had missed from the governor's table an officer who, 
 during my former visits, had always been present on such 
 occasions, and whom I used to call " my friend in the green 
 uniform," on account of his wearing a coat of green velvet 
 richly embroidered with gold lace, and a gold aiguillette. 
 He had been one of Radama's officers, and was reported to 
 have been severe, or even cruel, in war. He filled an office 
 of some importance at Tamatave, spoke French with com- 
 parative ease, and was often at my house. Notwithstand- 
 ing the report of his severity as a soldier, I was always im- 
 pressed with the gentleness of his manners and apparent 
 amiableness of his disposition, as well as with the strength
 
 286 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. x. 
 
 of his social affections. He had paid much attention to the 
 education of his children, to whom he always appeared 
 strongly attached. When he applied to me during my for- 
 mer visit to take his likeness, he stipulated, before he would 
 allow me to take a portrait of himself singly, that I should 
 include himself and his children in the same picture ; and 
 he himself arranged the group before the camera, causing 
 his eldest son, a fine youth about seventeen years of age, to 
 stand at his right hand, then taking a younger child on each 
 knee, and causing another to stand between them. Noth- 
 ing but the illness of his wife at the time prevented her 
 being, as he had earnestly desired, included in the family 
 picture. 
 
 He was in health and vigor when I left, but had gone 
 subsequently to his own land in the interior, and had there 
 been seized with the small-pox. As soon as this was known 
 he had, according to the custom of the country, been re- 
 moved from the habitations of men, and lodged in a tempo- 
 rary dwelling, where he soon died. Some of the members 
 of his family afterward anxiously inquired if I had any 
 copies of his likeness, especially the family group. I had 
 only one, and this I reserved for his eldest son, who was 
 then in the interior; but I told them I thought I had the 
 negative at home, and if so I would send them some copies 
 after my return, a promise which I hope to fulfill. 
 
 On the 17th, four days after my arrival, a native, some- 
 what past middle age, came to my house, and, addressing 
 me in English, said he was guide and interpreter for trav- 
 elers, and had been sent by the prince to conduct Mr. Cam- 
 eron and myself to the capital. He afterward told me that 
 when a youth he had gone to the Cape of (rood Hope, where 
 he had served a number of years in the Cape corps, and had 
 also been a servant to Captain Underwood, secretary to the 
 late Lord Charles Somerset, the governor ; but that many 
 years ago he had returned to his native country, and had
 
 CHAP. x. PRESENTS FROM PRINCES AT THE CAPITAL. 287 
 
 since, in the capacity of guide and interpreter, accompanied 
 many foreigners from the coast to the capital. He said the 
 present was the best season for making the journey, and 
 that I need not be apprehensive of the fever. I was sorry 
 to find afterward that habits of drinking rendered my guide 
 incapable of affording us much assistance. 
 
 During the day I had many applications for medicine, 
 and for books, dictionaries, spelling-books, etc. ; and in the 
 afternoon four or five chiefs, arrayed in the large white 
 lamba of the Hovas, came to my house. They were attend- 
 ed by a number of dependents, some of whom led an ox, 
 while others brought turkeys and other poultry, with bags 
 of 'rice and other provisions, which^they said they had been 
 directed by their superiors residing at the capital to present 
 to Mr. Cameron and myself on our arrival, but that as I 
 alone had come, they had brought them for my acceptance. 
 Through the medium of the interpreter I thanked them for 
 their kindness, and begged them to convey to the princes 
 at the capital my grateful acknowledgments. One of the 
 chiefs handed me a letter, which, on reading it afterward, I 
 found to be from the prince royal and his cousin, expressing 
 the pleasure with which they anticipated our arrival, and 
 informing us that they had directed the present to be given 
 to us as an expression of their regard. 
 
 As the guide intimated that the ox was intended as pro- 
 vision during the journey, it was, at his recommendation, 
 killed the same evening, and salt provided for curing it, but 
 long before our departure it had all disappeared. Toward 
 evening two soldiers were stationed at my house for the 
 avowed purpose of preventing any of my packages being 
 stolen, and from this time one or two soldiers were always 
 in the house. 
 
 A day or two after I received a visit from the governor, 
 the chief judge, and a number of other officers. The gov- 
 ernor wore scarlet embroidered pantaloons, a green coat, a
 
 288 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. x. 
 
 laced hat, and was carried in a palanquin preceded by a 
 band of music, and attended by a guard of eighty or a hund- 
 red men bearing muskets or spears. He said the wet weath- 
 er had prevented his coming earlier, expressed his pleasure 
 at my arrival, asked the objects of my visit, and inquired if 
 I knew of any hostile intentions in Europe against Mada- 
 gascar. I informed him that my visit was, as I had stated 
 in my letter sent to him from Mauritius, a visit of friend- 
 ship ; that I was the bearer of letters and presents for the 
 queen, and of a message of friendship from the English gov- 
 ernment, who had no hostile intentions toward Madagascar. 
 He expressed his pleasure at learning that the English were 
 friendly toward Madagascar, and delivered to me a letter 
 from the secretary of the government at the capital, author- 
 izing me to proceed thither on my proposed visit without 
 delay, and remain there a month. He said he was anxious 
 to afford every facility for my journey, and would furnish 
 bearers to carry my packages as soon as I should be ready. 
 During my previous visits the chiefs had made a number 
 of inquiries, both of Mr. Cameron and myself, about the 
 electric telegraph, the reported achievements of which, they 
 said, were to them utterly incomprehensible. 1 already pos- 
 sessed a general knowledge of the theory of telegraphic 
 communication, and had often witnessed the working of the 
 instrument. After I had received the last application from 
 the native government to repeat my visit to Madagascar, it 
 appeared to me on reflection that if I could show them the 
 apparatus and some of the simplest modes of operation by 
 which this wonderful application of modern science is now 
 performing so important a part in human progress, it would 
 gratify the more intelligent among them and increase the 
 attractions of knowledge ; while it would heighten their 
 sense of the amazing resources of civilized nations and the 
 many advantages to be derived from upright and amicable 
 intercourse with them.
 
 CHAP. x. WONDER AT THE ELECTRIC TELEGRAPH. 289 
 
 With this object in view I had asked Mr. Cook, chairman 
 of the International Telegraph Company, with whom I had 
 some previous acquaintance, if it would be possible to ac- 
 quire sufficient skill in manipulation during the two or 
 three months I might remain in England to enable me to 
 exhibit the working of the telegraph to the Malagasy. He 
 kindly introduced me to Mr. Latimer Clark, the engineer 
 of the company, who very readily directed me to the most 
 useful publications on the subject, and gave me access to 
 the working premises of the company, where I was shown 
 the several parts of the machinery and instructed in the 
 most simple methods of working the telegraph. I had also 
 obtained from the company the needful batteries, instru- 
 ments, and two miles of galvanized wire, which I had taken 
 out with me. When these were opened at the custom-house 
 and their use became known, it was some time before any 
 other business could be attended to, so anxious were the 
 chiefs present to look at them and learn their mode of oper- 
 ation. 
 
 The governor and his companions had heard of the tele- 
 graphic apparatus, and he had repeatedly expressed his de- 
 sire to come and see it. He now asked if' I could show it 
 to him, and also the photographic camera; but as there 
 was a perfect crowd at my own residence, the instruments 
 were, at his suggestion, taken to the house of M. Provint, a 
 friendly merchant whose kindness and hospitality I had 
 uniformly shared. Here the governor and his friends ex- 
 amined most minutely and attentively the different parts 
 of the apparatus, particularly the connecting of the wires 
 with the batteries, the instruments and the mode of work- 
 ing them, and seemed to be at a loss to express his aston- 
 ishment and delight when informed that the movements 
 of the needles which they saw produced by working the 
 handles of the instrument signified, according to their num- 
 ber and direction, the letters of the alphabet, and thus 
 
 T
 
 290 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. x. 
 
 spelled the words of the message that was sent, and also 
 caused the needles at the other extremity of the wire to 
 make the same deflections, signifying the same letters, 
 whereby the observer there could read the message as 
 plainly and nearly as quickly as a written communication. 
 
 They seemed to comprehend and rejoice in the percep- 
 tion of the simple mode of representing letters by motions 
 of the needles ; but what the power was which traveled so 
 instantaneously and imperceptibly along the wire, moving 
 the needles so accurately at the distant end, they could 
 neither comprehend nor imagine. I could only tell them 
 that it was a force or power, very widely diffused and per- 
 forming an important part in the operations of nature, 
 which was called electricity ; but what that electricity real- 
 ly was the wisest men among us did not know, though they 
 were able, by means of its power, to perform things truly 
 wonderful. It was not the blank unquestioning wonder of 
 stolid ignorance, satisfied that the facts were something be- 
 yond immediate comprehension, and therefore probably su- 
 pernatural, which they manifested, but the surprise and in- 
 tense interest of thinking men who seemed to feel that they 
 had acquired a new mental treasure, though they yet only 
 half understood the wonders before them. 
 
 The mystery of the telegraph seemed greatly increased 
 when they were informed that the fluid would ignite gun- 
 powder, and that a cannon could be fired off by a person 
 many miles distant by means of a wire extending from the 
 galvanic battery to the powder in the touch-hole of the 
 gun. 
 
 On my arrival subsequently at the capital, I heard that a 
 Frenchman residing there had, a short time before, received 
 a set of telegraphic apparatus, and, after exhibiting it on a 
 small scale, had offered to establish telegraphic communica- 
 tion between Tamatave and the capital, and then present 
 the whole to the queen ; but that her majesty had declined
 
 CHAP. x. PREPAKING PACKAGES FOB THE JOURNEY. 291 
 
 the proffered gift, observing that messengers by relays of 
 runners between the capital and the coast were quite quick 
 enough for her, and much more sure than the proposed 
 telegraphic wires would be, which would most likely soon 
 get out of order and become useless. 
 
 The whole apparatus of the electric telegraph had been 
 packed in one large case, and other articles had been brought 
 in the same way. I had therefore to open and repack them 
 in smaller boxes for the convenience of transit, as all had 
 to be carried on men's shoulders. Happening to mention 
 to the aid-de-camp of the prince that an article which I 
 was placing in one of the boxes was a present for the queen, 
 I was surprised a day or two afterward by noticing the 
 same aid-de-camp request a young officer, who was sitting 
 on the box, to change his seat immediately, assigning as a 
 reason that the box contained something belonging to the 
 sovereign. He was instantly obeyed, and the native serv- 
 ant who attended me was charged to inform every one 
 who might come to the house not to sit on that box, as it 
 was a great offense to sit upon, or even to sit above, any 
 thing intended for the sovereign. 
 
 When the alteration in my boxes was finished, a number 
 of natives came and covered all the packages with the long 
 leaves of a species of pandanus, which they tied on with 
 the stalks of a tough creeper abundant in the forest. All 
 articles are conveyed on men's shoulders to the capital, and 
 are uniformly covered with these leaves, which when care- 
 fully put on are so impervious to rain that not only piece 
 goods, but even sugar or salt, are carried two or three 
 hundred miles and exposed to frequent rains without in- 
 jury. 
 
 In reducing the size of my packages, nails and iron fast- 
 ening for the corners were required, and these, when not 
 found in the market, were furnished by the native smiths. 
 An axe for cutting fuel and some large knives for use ou
 
 292 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. x. 
 
 the journey were also purchased in the market, and were 
 not only creditable to the native workmen, so far as appear- 
 ance and finish were concerned, but wore remarkably well. 
 Every time I passed through the market I had noticed the 
 numerous articles of iron ware exhibited, and the reasonable 
 prices at which they were sold, as a hopeful sign of ad- 
 vancing civilization. Besides weapons of war, implements 
 of husbandry, lamps, and other articles of household use, 
 the last time I passed through the market I was so struck 
 with their several kinds of tools and hand-saw files that I 
 made a small purchase for the sake of encouraging the 
 workmen. 
 
 Iron of excellent quality abounds in the central prov- 
 inces, around the capital, where it is found near the surface, 
 and so rich is the ore in one of the mountains, Anibohi- 
 miangavo, that it is called the Iron Mountain. The ore is 
 so abundant at the surface that the soil has seldom been 
 penetrated more than a few feet in depth, so that at present 
 no idea can be formed of the riches of the country in this 
 valuable metal. The natives have been for many genera- 
 tions accustomed to the use of iron. Their smelting-fur- 
 naces, which are primitive and rude, are always fixed near 
 a stream, and the ore when gathered in large pieces is 
 broken small, and the earth or other extraneous substances 
 removed by frequent washings. The sides of the furnaces, 
 usually sunk two or three feet in the ground, are made of 
 stones, covered outside with clay, a small quantity of fuel 
 at the bottom is kindled, and the furnace filled with ore, 
 either mixed with charcoal or in alternate layers, and then 
 covered at the top with a thick coating of clay. The blast 
 is supplied by two pairs of pistons working in wooden cyl- 
 inders, generally a part of a small tree hollowed out. From 
 the bottom of each cylinder a tube formed by a bamboo or 
 an old gun-barrel is inserted into a hole through the stones 
 round the furnace. After the contents of the furnace have
 
 CHAP. x. SIMPLE MODES OF WORKING IKON. 295 
 
 been kept some time at a white heat it is left to cool, and 
 when opened the iron is found in pigs or lumps at the bot- 
 tom. In this state, as well as when heated again, and beaten 
 into bars or rods, it is taken to the government stores, or to 
 the market for sale. 
 
 The early productions of the Malagasy smiths were nec- 
 essarily rude, but since the instruction given to a large 
 number of youths by the thoroughly-qualified English 
 smith sent out with the missionaries, their work has been 
 improved, and is creditable to their intelligence and skill, 
 especially when the simple apparatus by which it is gener- 
 ally produced is considered. The smiths who work for the 
 government sometimes form almost entire villages, and 
 work together in sheds, but the native smith who works on 
 his own account plies his craft at the southern end of his 
 dwelling. His forge is a very simple affair. The earthen 
 floor of his house forms the hearth for his fire, which is 
 kept together by three or four stones. The bellows con- 
 feist of two wooden cylinders with pistons, similar to those 
 which supply the blast to the smelting-furnace. The an- 
 vil, which is about six inches square and six inches high, is 
 let in to a thick piece of wood fixed in the ground, with the 
 water-trough, tongs, hammers, and other tools near it. The 
 smith squats on a piece of plank or board on the floor, and 
 his assistants sit or stand opposite to him, with sledge-ham- 
 mers in their hands, ready to strike when required ; and by 
 this simple process the articles of iron in general use among 
 all classes of the people are produced. 
 
 The natives understand the manufacture of candles with 
 the fat of the bullock ; and one evening during the time 
 that my packages were being prepared the prince's repre- 
 sentative came with a number of men bringing about one 
 hundred candles of a good size, and about a foot in length, 
 which the people had prepared for my use during the jour- 
 ney. I thanked them for their forethought, and I after-
 
 296 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. x. 
 
 ward found the candles very useful at the places where we 
 stopped for the night. 
 
 A few weeks before my arrival at Tamatave M. Delas- 
 telle, who had resided many years on the island as a mer- 
 chant and planter, had died from taking an overdose of 
 chloroform, which he had been in the habit of using. To- 
 ward the close of the month three officers of the palace ar- 
 rived at Tamatave to express the sovereign's sympathy 
 with M. Delastelle's family, and her sense of his worth, for 
 he had been associated with the queen in attempting to in- 
 troduce the growth of the cane and the manufacture of 
 sugar, which had recently given place to the distillation of 
 arrack. 
 
 On Monday, the 28th of July, I was present at the public 
 meeting of the parties, which took place in the large room 
 of the house of the chief judge. The widow and relatives 
 of the deceased, arrayed in plain and common attire, indi- 
 cating that it was the season of mourning, sat together. 
 The officers of the place were in native costume. The 
 chief officer wore a large silk lamba of splendid pattern. 
 The second officer had on a long robe of a bright orange 
 color, over which was a red scarf. The officers from the 
 capital were in uniforms of blue cloth, with gold epaulettes 
 and profusion of lace. There was much speaking on both 
 sides, but Babangoro, the old hereditary chief of Tamatave, 
 was by far the most effective orator. I was struck with 
 the novel mode and apparently graduated scale by which 
 the estimated worth of the departed was specified in the 
 speech of the chief of the embassy from the capital, who 
 exclaimed in the course of his address, a sort of eulogium 
 upon the departed, " that the sovereign would have given 
 2000 dollars yea, 3000 dollars yea, 5000 dollars, rather 
 than that he should have died ;" and I was told afterward 
 that this was a customary mode of expressing their sense 
 of the loss occasioned by the death of public persons, and
 
 OHAP. x. HOMAGE RENDERED TO THE DEAD. 297 
 
 that sometimes the worth of the deceased was estimated at 
 a much higher figure. It was also stated, on this occasion, 
 that as a mark of respect toward the deceased a specified 
 number of cannons and of muskets would be fired ; also 
 that barrels of arrack would be given to the people, and a 
 number of oxen distributed for slaughter. 
 
 During the forenoon of the following day a number of 
 officers in their palanquins preceded by their band, which 
 generally consisted of a couple of drums, with clarionets, 
 fifes, and flutes, and attended by a guard of honor of sixty 
 or a hundred men, passed by my residence on their way to 
 the large open space near the premises of the late M. Delas- 
 telle. Two small cannons tied to poles, and borne on men's 
 shoulders, were also carried along, followed by crowds of 
 people, all proceeding to the same place. 
 
 About one o'clock the firing of cannon and musketry 
 commenced. The firing, mingled with the din of the music 
 and the shouts of the multitude, was continued with occa- 
 sional intervals during the afternoon ; and toward evening, 
 when the firing ceased, five or six poor frightened oxen were 
 driven past my house toward the plain at the north end of 
 the village, where they were to be killed and distributed 
 among the parties by whom they had been driven to the 
 place. From ten to twenty intoxicated men surrounding 
 one of the terrified animals, some hold of his horns, others 
 of his tail, occasionally one jumping on his back, and sing- 
 ing at the highest pitch of their voices, would pull or drive 
 the poor brute along to the apparent delight of their own 
 companions, but to the evident dismay and terror of the 
 more sober and quiet part of the community. 
 
 As I went in the evening to the house of the hospitable 
 friend at whose table I always found a place, the road was 
 literally thronged with the excited and intoxicated multi- 
 tude. Some were carrying vessels containing intoxicating 
 drink, others portions of the slaughtered animals, and more
 
 298 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. x. 
 
 than once a soldier might be seen among the crowd with a 
 large piece of flesh, raw and bloody, dangling from the end 
 of the spear across his shoulder. A perfect saturnalia reign- 
 ed throughout the village till past midnight, and the rude 
 barbarian music of the tomtoms scarcely ceased before day- 
 light. Similar proceedings took place on the following day, 
 although the officers from the fort were not present, and 
 few of the Hovas, or more respectable portion of the com- 
 munity, appeared to participate in the prevailing drunken- 
 ness and tumult, which seemed to be confined in a great 
 measure to the Betsimasaraka or natives of the coast, and 
 the slaves. 
 
 On the evening of the next day I was invited to a public; 
 dinner given by the governor to the officers from the capi- 
 tal. About a dozen foreign residents Italians, Germans, 
 and French, but chiefly the latter, including the captains of 
 two French vessels which had arrived on the preceding day 
 were present. The provision was abundant, consisting of 
 soup, beef, roast pig, poultry, game, and pastry, all well pre- 
 pared. The officers from the capital appeared sensible and 
 well-behaved men, and, as I sat next to them at dinner, 1 
 had occasional opportunities of answering their inquiries 
 about England, as well as of hearing the news from the 
 capital. After the dinner, several of the foreign residents 
 expressed their sense of the merits and services of the late 
 M. Delastelle, and, as one of them frequently mentioned the 
 name of the queen, the governor politely requested that, 
 whatever reference they might make to M. Delastelle, they 
 would avoid mentioning the name of the sovereign ; and, as 
 the officers from the palace intimated their approval of the 
 governor's request, I inferred that it was not considered re- 
 spectful to the sovereign that her name should be thus in- 
 troduced in the course of an after-dinner speech. 
 
 On every occasion that I had met him at dinner, the gov- 
 ernor had observed that I did not drink wine, and on my
 
 CHAP. x. MALAGASY LOYALTY AND ETIQUETTE. 299 
 
 remarking to him that it was from no want of respect to my 
 host, or to the parties whose health was proposed, he said 
 he understood it was on account of religious scruples, and 
 that he had been told that the Christian law prohibited the 
 use of wine. I was glad of the opportunity thus afforded 
 of correcting his mistake, and told him the Bible did not 
 prohibit the drinking of wine, but condemned drunkenness, 
 which was a great sin and a great calamity ; that although 
 I never had any inclination to excess, I had for many years 
 discontinued the use of wine as an ordinary beverage, and 
 that with apparent advantage to my health. I added, that 
 numbers of people in my own country adopted the same 
 course, and that the drinking of wine and all sorts of spirit- 
 uous liquors was, of late years, very much diminished among 
 the respectable classes of society. 
 
 I could not help noticing on this, as well as on a former 
 occasion, the apparent ardor of loyalty with which the health 
 of the prince was received and drunk by the company 
 standing, immediately before that of the queen, which, ac- 
 cording to Malagasy etiquette, is always the last toast pro- 
 posed, and is the signal for the departure of the governor 
 and the chief officers. When this is proposed the company 
 all rise, the band in the court-yard plays what may be call- 
 ed the Malagasy national anthem, and, when the glasses are 
 emptied, all exclaim, " Long live the queen !" or " May the 
 sovereign live forever !" About nine o'clock the governor 
 and the officers retired, and I proceeded to my own house, 
 where I found a number of friends assembled, and had the 
 satisfaction, of receiving pleasant tidings from the capital. 
 
 The feasting and dissipation connected, with the obsequies 
 of the late M. Delastelle having terminated, the preparations 
 for my journey were soon completed. The son of the gov- 
 ernor of the adjacent province to the northward, and one or 
 two other friendly chiefs, had arrived at Tamatave for the 
 purpose of proceeding in company with me to the capital,
 
 300 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR CHAP. x. 
 
 so that my party seemed likely to be much larger than I 
 had expected. 
 
 The only roads in Madagascar are those made by naked 
 native feet and bullocks' hoofs. No wheel carriages or 
 pack-oxen are used by the natives, and as no lakes or riv- 
 ers admit of water-carriage, except to a limited extent, all 
 goods are conveyed from one part of the country to another 
 on men's shoulders. The governor had informed me it was 
 the queen's order that all my packages should be carried to 
 the capital by her people, and a hundred men, a much larger 
 number than I at that time thought needful, were appointed 
 to this service. At my own request, however, I engaged a 
 dozen bearers to carry my palanquin, cooking - apparatus, 
 etc., to whom I promised payment in money as well as pro- 
 visions by the way. One or two of them afterward mani- 
 festing some misgivings as to whether they might not be 
 included in the government arrangement, and thereby lose 
 the promised payment, they came to me to inquire, accom- 
 panied by the interpreter, whom I heard telling them, " En- 
 glish always pay what they say. This one Englishman he 
 sure to pay ;" and on my repeating to them the promise 
 that, whatever any other person might give them, I would 
 certainly pay each man the stipulated sum at the end of the 
 journey, they appeared delighted at the prospect of seeing 
 the capital and obtaining so much money. 
 
 By daybreak on the last day I was to spend at Tamatavc 
 several Betsimasaraka chiefs came to apportion the pack- 
 ages among the bearers. When the packages were suffi- 
 ciently small and light, two were given to one man, who tied 
 them to the ends of a thick bamboo cane, to be carried across 
 his shoulder. The larger boxes were fastened to poles, and 
 carried between two or even four bearers. In scrambling 
 and almost fighting for the smallest packages, some of the 
 men had seized and cast on the ground a small box contain- 
 ing a stone bottle of sulphuric acid, which, when I saw them,
 
 CHAP. x. THE GOVERNMENT SEAMSTRESSES. 301 
 
 they had tied horizontally to a short pole. The fluid was ooz- 
 ing from the box, which was already burned black, and the 
 hands of the men were affected in a manner they could not 
 account for. On opening the box I found that the stone 
 stopper of the bottle had been broken. I showed them the 
 bottle, and told them it contained strong water belonging to 
 the machine for sending messages to a distance, and that 
 they must be careful and not throw it down violently on 
 the rocks, or turn it bottom upward, lest it should run out. 
 The men who had burned their fingers seemed rather un- 
 willing to have any thing more to do with the box ; but on 
 my screwing in the stopper, covering it over with melted 
 sealing-wax, and then putting a mark upon the top of the 
 box that they might know the side which was to be always 
 uppermost, they again took charge of it, and no farther 
 trouble occurred. 
 
 All skilled labor in Madagascar, especially that which 
 has been introduced by foreigners under the sanction and 
 patronage of the sovereign, is supposed to belong to the 
 government ; and although the parties are allowed to exer- 
 cise their skill for their own benefit, they are required to 
 hold themselves in readiness to undertake any work the 
 government may demand. An unexpected and somewhat 
 amusing illustration of this kind of government service oc- 
 curred in the preparation of my outfit. The governor had 
 sent for my service the day before I was to set out a light 
 and convenient palanquin. The government smith had re- 
 paired the iron- work, but it had no cover to keep out sun 
 or rain, and I was a little amused when, soon after daylight 
 the next morning, two middle-aged females, apparently su- 
 perintendents of the rest, followed by three and twenty 
 young women, came with sewing-apparatus, to fit the cover- 
 ing on my palanquin. 
 
 While the young women, under the direction of their 
 superiors, and apparently much to their own amusement
 
 302 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. x. 
 
 and that of the men engaged in the court-yard about the 
 packages, were cutting the cloth and arranging the palan- 
 quin, a friendly chief of the village, who came to take leave 
 of me, noticing my palanquin, said it was too small for so 
 long a journey, and offered a more commodious one of his 
 own, which he immediately had brought to the place. 
 When this arrived, my fellow-travelers all pronounced it 
 much more convenient than the one previously provided. 
 I thankfully accepted it ; and the needle- women, when they 
 found that the governor's palanquin was not likely to be 
 used, discontinued their stitching and returned to their 
 dwellings.
 
 PREPARING FOR A START. 303 
 
 CHAPTER XL 
 
 Departure from Tamatave. Slaughter of an Ox, and subsequent Rejoicing. 
 Arrival of Sodra. Number of our Party. Native Officers. Dwell- 
 ings of the People. Native Hospitality. Forest Explorations, and new 
 Plants and Flowers. Beautiful Lake Scenery. The Bird beloved by 
 Cattle. Aspect of Andevorandro, and Occupations of the People. Voy- 
 age on the Iharoka. The Rofia Palm. Magnificent Astraptua Trees. 
 Speeches on offering Presents. Interview with an Officer from the Capi- 
 tal. Retail of spirituous Liquors. Aspect of the distant Country. 
 Apprehensions from Crocodiles. Size, Habits, and Ferocity of Croco- 
 diles. Crocodiles' Eggs collected for Food or Sale in the Markets. 
 Perils and Privations of a Party of Christian Fugitives. The hot Springs 
 at Ranomafana. Native Music. Continuance of Rain. Physical Ap- 
 pearance of the People, and Modes of dressing their Hair. Appearance 
 of the Rocks. The Traveler's-tree, its magnificent Form and varied 
 Uses. Meals on the Journey. Exceedingly difficult Roads. Objects of 
 Reverence or Worship. 
 
 EARLY in the morning of the 6th of August, 1856, the 
 bearers came and removed my packages into the court-yard 
 of my house. The two soldiers who had slept beneath my 
 roof with their muskets at their heads, rolled up their mats 
 and gave them to a boy who was to carry them. A stout 
 Betsimasaraka chief, named Beoli, belonging to the district, 
 but who, from having been some years on board an English 
 frigate for the purpose of learning the duties of a sailor, 
 spoke broken English, so as to be generally understood, 
 and had been appointed by the authorities captain of the 
 maromities, or bearers, came with a gun, and a powder- 
 horn slung over his shoulder, to superintend the departure 
 of the men with their burdens. I had hesitated about tak- 
 ing the packages, but the governor recommended all should 
 be taken on to the capital, instead of being left to be sent 
 for afterward, if needed.
 
 304 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. xi. 
 
 When the bearers had taken charge of their packages, 
 Beoli took me to the chiefs of each small party, which con- 
 sisted of about ten men, and requested me to write down 
 the names of these chiefs, who, he said, would be respons- 
 ible for the safety of the packages carried by the men of 
 their party. At eight o'clock the first company of about 
 forty men left the yard ; and about three hours afterward 
 a second party set out with the remainder of the packages. 
 The governor sent to wish me a safe and pleasant journey, 
 and to inform me that he had sent three soldiers with an ox 
 to Hivondro,' where I expected to halt for the night, and 
 where the ox might be killed as provision for the com- 
 mencement of the journey. The second in command also 
 sent to say, that he had given orders for a bullock to be 
 presented to me at two different stages on the route. A 
 number of the chiefs, and some of the foreign residents also, 
 came to take leave ; and one young chief, who had shown 
 me many attentions, and rendered me much assistance, 
 when he had taken leave, and I asked him if there was any 
 thing I could give him as a token of my sense of his kind- 
 ness, said he had nothing to ask of me unless it was a little 
 book which he had seen belonging to my servant on a for- 
 mer visit. 
 
 Soon after one o'clock I shook hands with my friends, 
 entered my palanquin, and set out on my journey to An- 
 tananarivo. The people of the village offered their salu- 
 tations and good-wishes as we passed along toward the 
 plain to the north-east of Tamatave. My palanquin was 
 very much like a sailor's cot fixed to a strong wooden frame 
 and furnished with poles projecting four or five feet at each 
 end, like the poles of a sedan chair. About a foot above 
 the upper edges of the cot, a sort of roof or covering was 
 formed of fine rofia cloth, and curtains of the same material 
 were fixed along the sides. These were turned over the top 
 in fine weather, but could be let down so as effectually to
 
 CHAP. xi. FIRST NIGHT'S HALT ON THE KOAD. 305 
 
 exclude the rain. Four bearers carried the palanquin, a re- 
 lay of four more walked by the side, and four others carried 
 my cooking-apparatus and personal luggage. Our road, 
 for a considerable distance, led over a sandy plain, present-- 
 ing occasionally long lines of sand-banks running parallel 
 with the ocean, and having at different periods formed its 
 boundary. The country afterward became more woody, 
 and we often passed trees of large size and vigorous growth. 
 About half past three we reached Anzolokafa, a straggling 
 village on the banks of the Hivondro, nine, miles distant 
 from Tamatave, and where we were to halt for the night. 
 
 My bearers hung up my palanquin, by means of cords, 
 to the rafters of the house in which we were to sleep ; so 
 that it answered the double purpose of a carriage by day 
 and a bed by night. By this plan I was also effectually 
 removed from the dirt of the floor and the swarms of its 
 inhabitants, which are celebrated for the numbers in which 
 they come forth by night. I walked to an elevated part 
 of the village, which commanded an extensive view of the 
 coast and the wide rolling ocean, from its junction with the 
 lake on one side, and the placid water of the broad Hivon- 
 dro, and the fertile and level country on the other ; and I 
 was greatly delighted with the scene. 
 
 In less than an hour the whole party had arrived, and 
 among them the aid-de-camp of the prince with letters 
 from the capital. The packages were deposited in the 
 lapa, a sort of public or government house, erected for the 
 use of travelers, and of which there is one, if not more, in 
 every village of any consequence. The next thing they 
 did was to kill the bullock, which they managed very 
 adroitly, by throwing the animal on its side, tying its legs, 
 and then cutting its throat with a large knife. It was soon 
 cut up, without stopping to take off the skin ; and amid 
 shouting, and dancing, and other demonstrations of joy, 
 the meat was distributed among the parties around, whose 
 
 U
 
 :506 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. xi. 
 
 numbers were greatly increased by the wives and relations 
 of the soldiers, bearers, and others who accompanied our 
 party from Tamatave. A leg and part of the rump, and 
 the tongue, were appropriated to myself and my immediate 
 attendants. A steak of this, a fish from the adjacent lake, 
 with rice and vegetables, and a cup of tea, supplied me 
 with an acceptable supper. 
 
 After dusk, and during the greater part of the evening, 
 the chopping of fuel, and blazing of fires, each surrounded 
 by perhaps half a dozen eooks, some boiling rice, others 
 broiling, baking, or roasting their meat in one direction, 
 the laughter and mirth of those who were sitting on the 
 ground at their evening meal as seen in other directions, 
 presented an aspect of social life that can be but rarely wit- 
 nessed; and it attracted my attention the more forcibly 
 from this being the first time I had found myself surround- 
 ed by so numerous a company under similar circumstances. 
 
 We were stirring by daylight the next morning. The 
 men went forward with the packages ; my attendant pre- 
 pared a cup of tea, which I took with a biscuit before leav- 
 ing my lodgings. One of my bearers was missing, but 
 Sodra, a fine strong tall young man, who had, in a manner 
 somewhat remarkable, voluntarily attached himself to me 
 ever since my arrival, had followed me from Tamatave, and 
 now readily completed their number. After arranging with 
 the aid-de-camp of the prince about the forwarding of let- 
 ters, I took leave of the friends who intended to return t< > 
 Tamatave. About eight o'clock we embarked in canoe? 
 upon the Hivondro, a broad river, said to be greatly infest- 
 ed with crocodiles. After proceeding by water two or 
 three miles, we landed, and traveled about ten miles, reach- 
 ing the small village of Ambalatambaca at eleven o'clock. 
 
 The rain had fallen heavily during great part of the way. 
 but the rofia cloth forming the cover of my palanquin, 
 .thickening with the wet, had kept the inside perfectly dry.
 
 CHAP. xi. APPEARANCE OF THE FEVER DISTRICTS. 307 
 
 On the way I saw some splendid angraecums. The finest 
 plants were growing near the roots of leafless bushes, and 
 having their own roots surrounded with long green grass. 
 The bushes themselves were growing in loose sand. The 
 very healthy state of these plants led me to think that a 
 moderate amount of shade and moisture suits them better 
 than the dry exposed branches or trunks of dead trees, on 
 which I have often seen them growing. My attention was 
 also arrested by a new species of pandanus, with dwarf 
 stalks and broad pointed leaves. Among the varieties of 
 indigo, a plant with a pink or red flower was unusually at- 
 tractive ; while a little modest blue tradescantia, somewhat 
 resembling the wild forget-me-not, enlivened the borders 
 of the path. But the greatest rarity was a kind of large- 
 growing heath, with pink or lilac-colored flowers. In some 
 places I also saw large masses of creeping ferns entirely en- 
 circling the trees. The greater part of the road, however, 
 had been over sandy plains, traversed by ridges or high 
 banks of sand, which had at one time been the boundary 
 of the sea. We also passed through regions of dead, 
 blanched, barkless forest-trees, still standing; the only 
 signs of life among them being a few orchids or ferns grow- 
 ing in the forks of their trunks and branches. Sometimes 
 we passed through a tract of thick verdant forest of large 
 timber ; but in general there were ponds or stagnant 
 marshes on both sides of the path, sometimes overgrown 
 with long grass or rushes, and just the region for fever. 
 Along the borders of the running stream, I saw numbers 
 of the tropical lettuce, pistice stratiotes, growing very freely. 
 
 Heavy rain detained us until the afternoon, when we re- 
 sumed our journey, and, after traveling again over the same 
 sort of marshy country, we reached Tranomaro literally, 
 Many houses some time before dusk, and halted for the 
 night at a house on the border of an extensive lake. 
 
 Finding the captain of the bearers and the interpreter
 
 308 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. xi. 
 
 both addicted to drinking, and that what should have fur- 
 nished provisions for the men had been spent in arrack, I 
 requested Izaro, a friendly chief of our party, and one 
 whom I thought I could trust, to undertake the purchasing 
 of food for the bearers during the journey. This necessi- 
 tated the numbering of our company, that he might know 
 for how many he had to provide rice twice a day. I was 
 a little startled when he brought me the list, amounting to 
 upward of 109 ; but, being fully persuaded that an empty 
 stomach would not make a man's burden lighter, or in any 
 way help him over the road, I furnished Izaro with money, 
 earnestly requesting him to see that all the bearers of my 
 packages were regularly supplied with food. There were 
 two vessels loading with rice at Tamatave when we left; 
 and the demand for that article being just now somewhat 
 unusual, it was not at every village in this neighborhood 
 that rice could be obtained. Manioc of excellent quality, 
 however, was abundant, and with this the- people were 
 equally well satisfied. 
 
 Again the rain fell heavily throughout the night; but, 
 as the weather cleared soon after daybreak, the maromites 
 set off with their packages. Before we started, Eamanana- 
 soa, a Hova officer, arrived from Tamatave, having been 
 sent by the governor to see that every needful assistance 
 was rendered us on the road. 
 
 Before resuming the account of my journey to the capi- 
 tal, it may be well to offer a few words in explanation re- 
 specting a class of persons which I may frequently have 
 occasion to mention in the course of my narrative, viz., 
 the native officers. These are not persons wearing uni- 
 forms, and occupied in military duties, but servants of the 
 government, holding place in the graduated scale of rank 
 established in the government service, civil as well as mili- 
 tary. In many instances I should not have known they 
 were officers at all, had not the attendants and others intro-
 
 CHAP. xi. OFFICERS AND AIDS-DE-CAMPS. 309 
 
 ducing them, announced their approach and said, the "Man- 
 anboninahitra," man or men "having rank," are coming. 
 The officers were not distinguished by any particular dress, 
 except on public occasions, when those of highest grade 
 wore some sort of uniform. In traveling, the officers are 
 distinguished by having a sword, generally without a 
 sheath; but on the road this is generally carried by a 
 slave, who follows with his master's baggage. 
 
 The aids-de-camp also form a class which I may have 
 frequent occasion to mention. Dekana is the native term, 
 borrowed from the French. This does not designate an of- 
 ficer appointed to special duties, but is applied to the young 
 men in the army above the ranks, or privates, and who at- 
 tach themselves, as adherents, to any particular chief, and 
 are considered devoted to the interests of such chief. Their 
 number appeared to be limited only by the popularity of 
 the chief or the prospects of advantage to his followers. 
 Thus, when a young man was spoken of as Dekana of any 
 chief, it seemed to mean that he was devoted to his inter- 
 ests, and to be engaged in his service. 
 
 In addition to the cup of tea and biscuit which I gener- 
 ally took every morning before starting, I now added a 
 small portion of quinine, one or two grains, which, acting 
 as a tonic, might, it was supposed, render me less likely to 
 be affected by the atmospheric changes to which I was ex- 
 posed. 
 
 Before we set out, Eabotobefe, a chief from the neighbor- 
 hood of Hivondro, brought a present of twenty fine fish, 
 apparently a species of mullet, which I gratefully accepted, 
 five being set apart for myself and my bearers, and the rest 
 distributed among the people. It was past seven o'clock 
 before I set out, and we soon entered a thick forest. Rich- 
 er vegetation I had seldom seen. Ferns and orchids were 
 abundant, but chiefly of sorts I had observed before. A 
 clump of Angrcecum sesquipedale, growing within a yard of
 
 310 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. xi. 
 
 my path, exhibited some of the finest flowers I have yet 
 seen. The tails seemed even to exceed a foot and a half in 
 length; but the Angrcecum superbum was most abundant. 
 Some of the orchids greatly resembled certain varieties of 
 dendrobium, being about the size and form of D. Pierardi. 
 There were also several bulbs, apparently varieties of Wat- 
 soni, exhibiting pink and lilac flowers ; but I had not the 
 heart to stop the men, so as to allow me to examine them 
 more carefully. The little slender modest blue-flowered lo- 
 belia appeared in great abundance during some parts of the 
 journey. But, except when passing through the forest, the 
 road lay over wet, marshy ground, having a sandy surface, 
 with apparently shallow lagoons spreading a mile or two 
 toward the interior. 
 
 After traveling about eighteen miles, we halted at An- 
 dranokoditra, a village of about a dozen houses, standing 
 on a high bank of sandvrising gradually from the shore of 
 an extensive lagoon. The country toward the interior was 
 well wooded, and more elevated than any we had passed 
 through, and on the opposite side of the lake, the little vil- 
 lage of Manaoka, embowered among trees, and standing on 
 a rising ground, with a tall flag-staff in the centre, from 
 which on stated occasions the ensign of the sovereign was 
 unfurled, added much to the charms of the landscape. 
 
 The houses in the villages at which we had hitherto 
 halted, had been for the most part small, slightly construct- 
 ed, and dirty; seldom protecting their inmates from the 
 heavy rains which at this season of the year are so fre- 
 quent. The inhabitants did not appear to suffer from want 
 of food ; and though much could not be said for their 
 cleanliness or comfort, I saw but comparatively few sick- 
 persons. The people who reside constantly in these un- 
 healthy districts are reported to enjoy in general immunity 
 from the fever which is often so severe and fatal to natives 
 from more elevated and healthy districts of the country, as 
 well as to foreigners.
 
 CHAP. xi. TRAVELING ALONG THE SEA-BEACH. 311 
 
 Rain again fell abundantly through the night, but before 
 seven o'clock in the morning we resumed our journey, which 
 led for some distance over a plain partially wooded, on 
 emerging from which we traveled for several miles along 
 the sea-beach. The morning sun shining upon the long 
 heaving billows of the ocean, which broke in lofty roaring 
 surges on the shore, increased the brilliance and grandeur 
 of the scene. As the wet sand afforded the firmest path, 
 the bearers kept as near as possible to the water, and were 
 often up to their knees in surf and foam. When passing 
 over the dryer sands they sunk ankle-deep at every step, 
 and this portion of their journey must have been extremely 
 laborious. At 'length, after passing the pleasantly-situated 
 village of Irangy, standing on a rising ground, and over- 
 looking the lake of the same name, which was concealed 
 from us by the high ground thickly covered with wood on 
 the side nearest the sea, we proceeded along a sandy coun- 
 try, having a sheet of water a mile or more in width ex- 
 tending for miles on our right. On their way over a grassy 
 plain my bearers halted for a minute or two, when I asked 
 them if they wished to rest awhile, as I was quite willing 
 to do so. They said they did not wish to halt, and were 
 quite strong to proceed ; and, to give me a proof that they 
 were so, one of them, who walked beside the palanquin, 
 bounded off at full speed toward a clump of trees bearing 
 edible fruit, jumping over a bush three or four feet high on 
 his way. He soon overtook his companions with a number 
 of the ripe fruit of the voantaka t a species of strychnos, which 
 he distributed among them. About ten o'clock, having 
 traveled eighteen miles, we reached Ivavongy, which I was 
 told was the first village in the country of the Betanimena. 
 
 My bearers, having perhaps had the lightest load, were 
 considerably in advance of the rest of the party ; and I ar- 
 rived at this place before the interpreter or any of the offi- 
 cers, who generally informed the people of the villages at
 
 312 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. xi. 
 
 which, we stopped of my name, objects, etc. ; but the ab- 
 sence of this information in the present instance made no 
 difference in the exercise of that hospitality which is always 
 so welcome to a stranger. As soon as my palanquin was 
 set down, a chief spread a mat in the shade and requested 
 me to be seated ; another brought me a bunch of ripe bana- 
 nas, two or three of which I found very refreshing. Two 
 chiefs, who appeared to be travelers, made many inquiries 
 as to my object in going to the capital. One asked wheth- 
 er I had any military uniforms to sell. The other asked 
 whether I was a missionary or a doctor. He said he had 
 heard that I took many likenesses of the people when I was 
 in the country before, and that he had seen some of them, 
 and wished to know if I intended to take the likenesses of 
 the chiefs at the capital. 
 
 When the rest of our party arrived, I crossed over the 
 Lake Kasoabe to a group of houses on the opposite shore, 
 as the lapa, or queen's house, was there, and would be more 
 comfortable than any of those around us. While waiting 
 on the beach until the canoe was ready, I observed some of 
 the men collecting quantities of a dark-colored but shining 
 micaceous sand, which they afterward dried and carried to 
 the capital, for the writers there to use instead of blotting- 
 paper. On reaching the opposite side of the lake I was con- 
 ducted to the house appropriated to the use of travelers 
 connected with the government, and the chief of the place 
 soon afterward brought me a couple of mullets and a small 
 basket of eggs. 
 
 The internal arrangements of the house differed in some 
 respects from those of the country on the other side of the 
 lake, and the difference, I was told, characterized the houses 
 of the Betanimena. The hearth, or cooking-place, was sit- 
 uated toward the northeast corner of the house, and at each 
 corner of the raised curb of stones surrounding the hearth a 
 strong post ten or twelve feet high was fixed in the ground.
 
 CHAP. xi. EXPLOEATIONS OF THE FOEEST. 313 
 
 Four feet above the fire-place the space between the posts 
 was filled by laths or sticks placed across, and about an inch 
 apart ; three feet higher was a second stage of the same 
 kind, and a third at the top of the posts. The natives call- 
 ed this structure over the fire-place sahala, and said it way 
 used as a place for their cooking-utensils, as well as a place 
 for dried meat or fish, or any other articles they wished to 
 1 keep free from damp. 
 
 In the afternoon, as Izaro had gone to some of the neigh- 
 boring villages in search of rice, and as, on that account, we 
 should not proceed until the morning, I set off in search of 
 plants to the adjacent forest, which extended its tempting 
 covert to within a few hundred yards of the houses. The 
 first object which arrested my attention was what the na- 
 tives told me was an old tangena, or poison-tree, which, 
 though the trunk was decayed, still exhibited vigorous and 
 leafy branches with blossoms and fruit. As I penetrated 
 farther into the forest, I was struck with the profuse and 
 luxuriant vegetation. The trees, though hard- wooded and 
 slow-growing, were high, and their branches interlaced at 
 the top; while the undergrowth was thick with tangled 
 bushes and creepers, whose stalks, sometimes as large as 
 cables, presented one impenetrable mass. Seeking here 
 and there for gaps made by the bullocks, and cutting and 
 winding my way wherever practicable, attempting to reach 
 every tree that had any thing green on its trunk or branches, 
 I saw a number of orchids, but none were new. Ferns were 
 abundant ; and among them the Davdllia polyantha, which 
 the natives call ampanga mamahily, was flourishing most 
 luxuriantly. The greatest rarity I met with in the forest 
 was a new kind of platycerum much resembling P. stem- 
 maria, growing on the trunks of trees twenty or thirty feet 
 from the ground. 
 
 On emerging from the forest, I passed along the edge of 
 a hill thickly overgrown with a large kind of heath, called
 
 314 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. xi. 
 
 by the natives anzavidy, and frequently a couple of feet 
 higher than our heads. The blossom had been abundant; 
 but I could find no seeds. I also met with a number of 
 beautiful plants, from four to six feet high, with leaves -like 
 a pleroma, and flowers resembling a petunia, having a rich 
 scarlet throat and creamy lip. I told the man who accom- 
 panied me, a native of the place, if, when the seeds were ripe, 
 he would gather them for me, I would pay him well for his 
 trouble ; but I had little hope of securing any, for the na- 
 tives can not understand why we should attach any value 
 to such things. I afterward found, in a damp, shady place, 
 two or three flowers somewhat like achimenes in form, and 
 of a deep blue color ; and in a dry, open space adjacent, I 
 met with a number of plants of the same species, with abun- 
 dance of ripe seed, which I carefully preserved. 
 
 
 BICE GRANARY. 
 
 In the evening Izaro returned, having obtained a good 
 supply of rice. Some chiefs of my own party, and two or
 
 CHAP. xi. BEAUTIFUL LAKE SCENERY. 315 
 
 three of their friends from the neighborhood, came to my 
 lodgings, and we spent some time in reading and in impor- 
 tant and cheering conversation. After which they retired, 
 and I wrote up my journal. 
 
 Our next day's journey was to be by water upon the lake 
 Imoasa, which, as well as the spacious lake we had crossed, 
 is said to be infested with crocodiles, which have occasion- 
 ally seized and destroyed cattle while crossing the ford. 
 The morning was wet, and it was between seven and eight 
 o'clock before I started in the last canoe of our fleet, and 
 though it rained most of the way many objects of interest 
 presented themselves as we passed along. We saw a few 
 water-fowl, and passed a number of fences or inclosures for 
 catching fish. We saw also large patches of the white water- 
 lily. The lake itself was about a mile across, with woody 
 banks, which on the side toward the interior were often rocky 
 and steep, presenting in some places marks upon the rocks 
 high above the water, which appeared to indicate the level 
 of the water at some former period. The rocks themselves 
 appeared to be sandstone, but above these in several places 
 along the shore, and in the neighborhood, the upper parts 
 of the high ground seemed to consist of loose sand, resem- 
 bling that spread along the edge of the lake, which con- 
 sisted chiefly of pulverized quartz. 
 
 The vegetation on the borders of the lake presented 
 greater variety than I had previously witnessed. Man- 
 groves, magnolias, palmistes, two or three species of panda- 
 nus, one of them trifoliated and exceedingly graceful in its 
 habit, with the broad-leaved traveler's-tree, were all grow- 
 ing together. The whole was enlivened by the frequent 
 appearance of the plant with a petunia-shaped flower which 
 I had met with on the previous day, and which, with its 
 scarlet and pink flowers, looked not unlike a large species 
 of azalea covered with blossoms. The angraecum was 
 abundant, and this in full flower, as well as the large bird's-
 
 316 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR CHAP. xi. 
 
 nest ferns, might sometimes be seen at the end of the trunk 
 of a dead tree that stretched its crooked length twenty or 
 thirty feet over the water. 
 
 Toward noon we reached the end of the lake Imoasa. 
 and landed at a place bearing the not very inviting name 
 of Andavaka-menarana, hole of serpents. The rain had 
 now ceased, and while the men were preparing the break- 
 fast I could not resist the temptation to explore the ad- 
 jacent wood. A cluster of long, jointed, slender-stalked 
 shrubs growing by the side of a stream, and bearing clus- 
 ters of pendulous flowers beautifully white, and larger and 
 longer in the tube than the Stephanotus floribunda, first at- 
 tracted my attention; but I searched in vain for seeds. 
 The chief rarity I met with was a climbing plant with leaf 
 and stalk somewhat resembling vanilla, or Dendrobium 
 chrysaniheum ; but on closer inspection it proved to be nei- 
 ther of these, though an exceedingly curious plant. A sin- 
 gle flattish stem nearly an inch in breadth, and sending out 
 small fibres on each side, extended up the stem of a large 
 tree for thirty or forty feet, and then sent out smaller shoots 
 which spread among the branches. There were no flowers 
 at the time, but the natives told me it bore blue or purple 
 flowers along the sides of the small branches. They called 
 it tandraho. I subsequently saw another plant of the same 
 species, which had along the sides of the smaller branches 
 yellow round-shaped protuberances resembling in structure 
 the seed vessels of the Canna indica, or Indian shot, but the 
 seeds were soft and unripe. 
 
 We resumed our journey soon after noon, passing through 
 a beautiful and fertile country covered with herbage and 
 ornamented by magnificent trees standing singly or in 
 clumps. In portions of the ground that had been recently 
 cleared and inclosed, and the vegetation destroyed by burn- 
 ing, the trees which were still standing deprived of their 
 smaller branches and great part of their bark were of enor-
 
 CHAP. xi. BIRD-FRIEND OF THE CATTLE. 317 
 
 mous size, and the soil seemed exceedingly rich. I had to- 
 day, as well as on previous occasions, passed herds of cat- 
 tle, either feeding or reclining on the grassy plains ; and I 
 had noticed that they were always accompanied by a num- 
 ber of birds nearly white, about the size of a pigeon, but in 
 shape more like a stork, having long legs and neck. It 
 appeared a different bird from the red-billed pique boef. 
 These birds seemed to be the constant companions of the 
 cattle, and attracted by the flies or other insects about the 
 oxen, and passed in and out among them, close to them, 
 and even upon them when grazing or lying down, with the 
 most perfect freedom and confidence. On inquiring of the 
 natives about them I was told that they were called vorom- 
 potsy, white bird, or vorontianomby ; literally, birds be- 
 loved by cattle, as they always followed the herds and de- 
 voured the flies which tormented them. The number of 
 birds was always proportioned to that of the cattle ; if the 
 latter were but few, they would be attended by only two or 
 three birds ; but if the herd was large, there would be great 
 numbers of birds in small companies among them. I re- 
 gretted that I did not obtain a specimen of these useful 
 birds. 
 
 This afternoon we passed a piece of water called Eano- 
 mainty, or Black- water, and shortly after reached Andevo- 
 randro, a village of perhaps two hundred houses, standing 
 on the banks of the Iharoka, the largest river in the district 
 of Betanimena. My palanquin was set down at the house 
 of the head man of the village ; and on reaching the door- 
 way I beheld between twenty and thirty men seated on the 
 ground, one or two of their number pouring out arrack from 
 long thick bamboo canes into large basins, which the rest 
 were drinking from and handing round. Many were shout- 
 ing or singing a kind of monotonous song ; others were add- 
 ing to the din by beating time with a stick upon a long 
 hollow bamboo, an amusement in which the natives some-
 
 318 VISITS TO MADAGASCAK. CHAP. xi. 
 
 times spend a great part of the night. When the chief man 
 came and requested this party to remove, they went to a 
 kind of outhouse in the neighborhood, but the arrival of so 
 many travelers drew away some from their drunken ca- 
 rousal. 
 
 When I hatf seen the packages all deposited in the gov- 
 ernment-house, I walked through this and two adjoining 
 villages to the junction of the river with the sea. The 
 opening was narrow, and the mouth of the river, like most 
 of the. openings we had passed, was nearly blocked up with 
 sand. This neighborhood appeared more populous than 
 any I had before seen. The people seemed industrious and 
 well off. There were several small gardens near the vil- 
 lage ; and I noticed a number of women sitting outside their 
 house, and employed in peeling the leaflets of the rofia palm, 
 and splitting the tough thin skin into threads for weaving : 
 others I saw weaving, with the same sort of material, a 
 strong species of cloth, for which this neighborhood is cele- 
 brated. This village had formerly been a place of some 
 importance, and before the time of Radama was a sort of 
 independent or feudal town, governed by its own chief, who 
 had the power of life and death, and rendered only a modi- 
 fied homage or military service to the most powerful chief 
 of the province. 
 
 In the evening Izaro distributed the rice to the bearers. 
 The men belong to two divisions of the people, and these 
 divisions are subdivided into parties of ten men each ; each 
 division received a couple of sacks containing about one 
 hundred pounds each. Each division then seized their 
 sacks, and, spreading a mat on the ground, emptied the 
 whole out in a heap, and measured out the shares to every ' 
 party with much noise, and, I suppose, greater satisfaction, 
 for they all thanked me for the supply. At every halting- 
 place the head of the party serves out the supply for each 
 individual ; and, as the inhabitants of the place are always 

 
 CHAP. xi. THE EIVEK IHAROKA. 319 
 
 willing to lend cooking-vessels, and fuel is abundant, this 
 meal of the bearers is soon ready. 
 
 Early the next morning a number of canoes, most of 
 which had been sheltered among high reeds on the opposite 
 side of the river, were brought to the edge of the water, and 
 loaded with the packages. The canoes are made out of a 
 single tree, generally the inophyllum, and are some of them 
 very large, with bottoms as round as a barrel, and no out- 
 rigger, yet the natives seem to have no fear of their upset- 
 ting. On this occasion I witnessed from my door the only 
 thing like a fracas which occurred within my observation 
 during my stay in the country. Several of the men ap- 
 peared to be quarreling about the adjustment of the Ipad 
 in one of the canoes, and blows with the fist were soon in- 
 terchanged quite as freely as words. Indeed, there was so 
 little noise that the former seemed to be involuntarily sub- 
 stituted for the latter. One of the officers, however, soon 
 restored order. A man belonging to the place had taken 
 his seat in one of the canoes, which the others declared was 
 already too deeply laden. THe chief of the village ordered 
 him repeatedly to come on shore, but he kept his seat until 
 one of the soldiers walked into the water, and, taking hold 
 of his arm, requested him not to give them any trouble, 
 upon which the man rose up and very quietly stepped out 
 of the canoe. 
 
 Our party and packages filled sixteen canoes. Another 
 canoe was subsequently provided for some of the officers, 
 who had remained a short time on the shore to see that 
 nothing had been left behind. Thus far our course had 
 been southward and near the coast, but shortly after leav- 
 ing Andevorandro, we entered a broad part of the Eiver 
 Iharoka, and steered in a westerly direction. The morning 
 was fine and cool, the water smooth, and the scenery on 
 both sides exhibited new forms of vegetation in great luxu- 
 riance. The country on the right was flat, in many parte
 
 320 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR CHAP. xi. 
 
 planted with sugar-cane. The banks on the opposite side 
 were high, and presented a succession of villages, of from 
 twenty to fifty houses, with surrounding plantations, and 
 often enlivened by the natives in their white lambas passing 
 to and fro. Here the singularly rich and stately rofia palm, 
 Sagus ruffia, was so abundant and conspicuous as to impart 
 something of the character of its own graceful form to the 
 surrounding scenery. While thus sailing smoothly along, 
 we passed several patches of the beautiful Nymphcea ccerulia 
 in blossom ; and I do not remember ever experiencing more 
 deeply the feelings of admiration and delight produced by 
 new, and rich, and beautiful aspects of nature than during 
 my passage along this charming river. The feelings of my 
 fellow-passengers in the same canoe harmonizing with my 
 own, our conversation on the wonders of creation, the. evi- 
 dences of divine wisdom and goodness, greatly increased 
 our enjoyment of the scenery. 
 
 After proceeding about a couple of hours, and passing 
 Marovata and Batrasina, two villages on our right, standing 
 on mounds of sandstone, and the straggling village of Ma- 
 romandia, stretching along the top of the high land on our 
 left, we left the broad river, and entered a narrow creek be- 
 tween high banks of clay. Several birds here attracted my 
 notice, among them a pretty little purple-colored kingfisher. 
 But my attention was chiefly arrested by the flowers on the 
 banks of the narrow stream, among them a plant which 
 looked like a variety of herbaceous hibiscus, with bright 
 yellow flowers, and gigantic arum, A. costatum, or A. colo- 
 casia, which grew by the edge of the water to the height of 
 ten or twelve feet, and so near that I could reach them on 
 both sides as we passed along. 
 
 But the most magnificent objects were the fine trees of 
 Astrapcea Wallichii, or viscosa. The name of this Malagasy 
 plant was derived from the word for lightning, on account 
 of the brilliancy of its flowers ; and Sir Joseph Paxton and
 
 CHAP. xi. MAGNIFICENT ASTRAPJE.ZG. 321 
 
 Dr. Lindley have thus spoken of A. Wallichii: " One of the 
 finest plants ever introduced. And when loaded with ite 
 magnificent flowers, we think nothing can exceed its grand- 
 eur."* I had seen a good-sized plant growing freely at 
 Mauritius, but here it was in its native home, luxuriating 
 on the banks of the stream, its trunk a foot in diameter, its 
 broad-leaved branches stretching over the water, and its 
 large pink, globular, composite flowers, three or four inches 
 in diameter, suspended at the end of a fine down-covered 
 stalk nine inches or a foot in length. These, hanging by 
 hundreds along the course of the stream, surpassed any 
 thing of the kind I had seen or could possibly have im- 
 agined. I frequently met with the astrapaea afterward, but 
 always growing near the water, and its branches frequently 
 stretching over the lake or river. 
 
 After reaching the landing-place, we passed about a mile 
 over stiff wet clay, and had to cross a piece of water so deep , 
 that Sodra was obliged to place me across his shoulders in 
 order to keep me dry. "We then walked along a path ankle- 
 deep in mud, until a little after ten o'clock, when we reached 
 Ambohibohazo, another considerable village, formerly gov- 
 erned by its own independent chief, whose power was su- 
 preme over the lives and property of the people. 
 
 On reaching a halting-place, especially if toward the even- 
 ing, the head man of the village soon learned from some of 
 the officers of our party the general objects of my journey, 
 and shortly afterward came with a present of rice and fowls, 
 or other kind of provision, for my refreshment. The quan- 
 tity brought seemed to bear some proportion to the size and 
 importance of the place ; and when the rice, and fowls, etc., 
 were laid on the floor, the chiefs who brought them gener- 
 ally apologized for the smallness of the present, but desired 
 thus to express their loyalty to their rulers and their good- 
 will toward the friend of the queen and the prince who had 
 
 * Paxton's Botanical Dictionary, p. 33. 
 
 X
 
 322 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. xi. 
 
 come to their village. I then, in a few words, expressed 
 my sense of their kindness, but the Hova officers replied at 
 much greater length, and the speaking at times was quite a 
 formal and protracted affair on both sides. It seemed to be 
 a kind of acknowledgment of the high descent of official 
 sacredness and supreme authority of the reigning family, as 
 well as a declaration of fidelity and attachment on the part 
 of the chiefs of the place, with a recognition and acceptance 
 of the same on behalf of the sovereign and her son by the 
 Hova officers. No return on my part for these presents 
 would have been allowed by the officers, but I was always 
 glad, on departing in the morning, to give a piece of cotton 
 cloth or other useful article to. the owner of the house in 
 which I had slept ; and if the mistress of the house had a 
 child in her arms, which was frequently the case, and it was 
 not too much frightened at my white face and strange dress 
 to allow me to place a showy handkerchief or piece of cloth 
 over its shoulders, this manner of expressing my sense of 
 their hospitality seemed to be equally gratifying to parents 
 and child. 
 
 As this was one of the places at which Kainebehevitra, 
 meaning "Father of great thoughts" the second officer at 
 Tamatave, had ordered a bullock to be given to me, the 
 people in charge of his property here drove a fine ox near 
 my house in the afternoon, and presented it to me in the 
 name of their chief. The animal was caught, killed, and 
 distributed by sunset, and the bustle and noise around a 
 number of fires in the neighborhood during the early part 
 of the evening indicated the zest which attended the prep- 
 aration of the evening meal. My own bearers and others 
 close by became afterward exceedingly noisy, and, much to 
 my annoyance, kept up their shouting and screaming till 
 long after midnight. 
 
 The next morning was rainy and dark, and the chiefs 
 proposed to rest here for the day to rearrange the pack-
 
 CHAP. xi. GOVERNMENT BEARERS EXEMPT FROM TAXES. 323 
 
 ages and to supply the places of eleven of the men, who had 
 departed during the night before last, after having received 
 their supply of rice for two or three days in advance. I 
 was somewhat surprised to find that the men who had left 
 had the lightest loads. Two of them had only a small box 
 of tea, about ten pounds' weight, and a black leather bag to 
 carry between them, and other two had had only my hat- 
 box and a small bundle of bedding for their load. Some 
 of the men said they had relations in the neighborhood, and 
 took the opportunity of being near to pay them a visit, but 
 I apprehended that their going might arise from its being 
 government service in which they were employed, and for 
 which they consequently expected to receive no pay. I re- 
 quested the chief who provided their rice to write down 
 the names of all those who remained, and to tell them that, 
 whatever they might receive from others, I would pay ev- 
 ery one who should continue with me until we reached the 
 capital. I had proposed to do this before, but the officers 
 objected. I had also heard that the districts around Ta- 
 matave. from whence bearers for the government are taken, 
 were, in consideration of this service, exempt from certain 
 taxes which are levied on the others. Whenever any of 
 the bearers absconded, the chiefs of the place provided oth- 
 er men to carry the packages which had been left to the 
 next post or government station. 
 
 The weather improved during the forenoon, and I walk- 
 ed through the village, which stands on the top of a hill of 
 stiff yellow clay. The ground immediately around is wet 
 and swampy, having considerable portions cultivated with 
 rice. The country beyond appeared more woody, and the 
 prospect on every side was bounded by high land, or dis- 
 tant mountains. Gardens belonging' to the villagers cover- 
 ed the sides of the hill, and their houses were in tolerably 
 good condition. Many of the women were employed in 
 weaving, others in dyeing their materials ; but I noticed in
 
 324 VISITS TO MADAGASCAB. CHAP. xi. 
 
 two of the houses a barrel of arrack, with a brass tap in the 
 end of it, standing near the door, and a number of natives 
 sleeping on the ground round about it. These houses are 
 the native grog-shops, which have been recently establish- 
 ed, and seem likely to prove prolific sources of idleness, 
 poverty, and wretchedness to the people. I was informed 
 that, after the killing and the distribution of the bullock on 
 the previous day, some of the bearers had bartered their 
 beef for arrack, and this it was which had made them so 
 noisy during the night, and so disinclined to move forward 
 the next morning. 
 
 A young officer, traveling from the capital to the coast, 
 stopped at my house to-day, to offer any assistance he could 
 render, as well as to hear and tell the news. He asked a 
 number of questions, and, among others, whether I could 
 make balloons ; for he said there was a French resident at 
 the capital who could make balloons go up in the air, with 
 fire inside, and could make looking-glasses, and cast can- 
 non. When I acknowledged my inferiority to the French 
 gentleman in all these respects, he added : " But you can 
 take likenesses, for I have seen some, and you have medi- 
 cine." He had brought me a trifling present, and asked for 
 a little medicine for the fever, which I promised to send 
 him. When he shook hands with me on leaving, I could 
 not but pity the poor fellow, for his hand was burning with 
 fever at the time. The natives from the high and healthy 
 provinces in the interior suffer in the low regions of the 
 country quite as much as Europeans do from the fever, of 
 which they entertain great dread. 
 
 The next morning we resumed our journey. The road 
 out of the village was quite as bad as that by which we 
 had entered. In descending the hill my bearers sank near- 
 ly knee-deep in mud, and, on reaching the bottom, they had 
 to cross a wide piece of water reaching up to their waists, 
 and then make their way along the edges of a series of soft
 
 CHAP. xi. ASPECT OF THE COUNTRY. 325 
 
 flooded rice-grounds. This was the only road from the vil- 
 lage. We next crossed a succession of low clayey hills> 
 and their intervening valleys, where the water-course at 
 the bottom was often widened out to join a rice-plantation. 
 Voitsara, the first village we passed, was almost surrounded 
 by plantations fenced with stakes of a fine species of ery th- 
 rina, many of which seemed to have taken root in the pro- 
 lific soil, and thus sent forth large branches bearing numer- 
 ous clusters of rich scarlet flowers. 
 
 At the next village, Maroomby, considerable portions of 
 ground were inclosed, and planted. Under cultivation it 
 scarcely was, for, in the rich black earth, the weeds and 
 brushwood grew with such rapidity and strength as almost 
 to dispute with the crops possession of the soil ; and, but 
 for the clusters of banana- trees, with their large bunches of 
 fruit, or the rows of sugar-cane, fifteen or eighteen feet 
 high, and occasional patches of strong, rank tobacco-plants, 
 the whole was so overgrown with bushes and creepers as 
 to resemble an uncleared waste more than a garden. Here 
 were a number of large erythrina-trees in full blossom. I 
 also saw the Aleurites triloba, or candle-nut-tree, as well as 
 other old South Sea Island acquaintances, but most of the 
 trees and flowers were new to me. 
 
 When the weather was fine I usually walked during the 
 early part of the day, both for the sake of relieving the 
 bearers and of observing the country and its productions. 
 The road, however, had been too wet and slippery to allow 
 me to do so this morning, and we reached Manamboninahi- 
 tra, where we halted for breakfast, at eleven o'clock, having 
 traveled about twelve miles. At noon we set out again, 
 our route continuing, according to the compass, a little to 
 the northward of west. 
 
 The aspect of the country before us was now changed. 
 Lines of hills, with occasional breaks, stretched from north 
 to south as far as the eye could reach. Few portions of
 
 326 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. xi. 
 
 these lines rose to any great elevation above the rest, and 
 no high single mountains were seen, but each succeeding 
 range of hills or mountains increased in elevation as well as 
 distance, the whole appearing like a series of serrated lines, 
 one extending above the other from the ridge we were 
 crossing to the last faint line of mountain-tops which mark- 
 ed the far-distant horizon. The valleys were generally filled 
 with luxuriant vegetation, and the hills covered with grass 
 or crowned with forests. 
 
 Since leaving the country bordering the Iharoka, we had 
 found the traveler's-tree intermingled with the rofia palm ; 
 but the former was now most abundant, and from its num- 
 bers, size, and healthy growth, imparted, by its own strik- 
 ing and singular structure and its masses of broad foliage, a 
 peculiar character to the landscape. Sometimes, for miles 
 together, it was the chief, if not the only species of tree that 
 was seen. 
 
 After descending from the village where we had halted, 
 we came to a river of the same name, about forty yards 
 wide, and so deep that the bearers were up to their waists, 
 and were obliged to raise the poles of my palanquin from 
 their shoulders to the top of their heads to keep me above 
 the water, while the relay of bearers walked in front and by 
 the sides, shouting and beating the water with branches and 
 poles. The river, they said, was infested with crocodiles, 
 and within a short time before we passed six persons had 
 been destroyed by them while crossing at the same place. 
 
 Crocodiles were said to be in all the rivers and lakes we 
 had passed since leaving the neighborhood of the sea, where 
 the water is brackish, and where they are never seen. In 
 the region over which we had passed they are about fifteen 
 feet long, but in other parts are much larger. It is said 
 that they may at times be seen chasing the fish in the lakes, 
 and often watching for prey among the reeds and other 
 kinds of shelter near the margin of the water. The croco-
 
 CHAP. xi. SUPERSTITIOUS FEAR OF THE CROCODILE. 327 
 
 diles feed chiefly on fish, but will seize and devour bullocks, 
 dogs, or any other animal quietly approaching or entering 
 the water. In some parts of "the island they were said to 
 be so ferocious as to attack and upset canoes, and then prey 
 upon the hapless voyagers they contained. The crocodiles 
 deposit their eggs in the sand on the shore, and prey upon 
 any animal they may find on the land. The late Mr. Hastie, 
 when once sleeping near a river, was awoke by the piteous 
 whine of a favorite dog, which always slept at the door of 
 his tent, and, rushing out, saw a crocodile dive into the wa- 
 ter with his poor dog in its jaws. The natives regard them 
 with strange feelings. They fear them as possessed of su- 
 pernatural power, invoke their forbearance with prayers, or 
 seek protection by charms, rather than attack them; even 
 the shaking of a spear over the waters would be regarded 
 as an act of sacrilegious insult to the sovereign of the flood, 
 imperiling the life of the offender the next time he should 
 venture on the water. Crocodiles' teeth are worn as charms ; 
 they are also made of silver or gold, and worn both for se- 
 curity and ornament, a golden crocodile's tooth being the 
 central ornament in the sovereign's crown. Yet, notwith- 
 standing this dread of the crocodile, the natives destroy the 
 young ones, and collect the eggs, which they boil and dry 
 in the sun, and then preserve in sacks for food or sale. The 
 eggs are large, being long rather than oval, and are obtain- 
 ed in great numbers. A missionary voyaging along the 
 lakes we had just left, at the season when the natives on 
 their shores were preserving the eggs, found that one single 
 family had collected 500 eggs. The male crocodiles are 
 said to prey upon the young ones, and great numbers of 
 their eggs are destroyed by serpents and certain kinds of 
 birds; but, notwithstanding these and other restrictions 
 upon their increase, their numbers are alarming and dan- 
 gerous. The crocodile is described as exceedingly timid, 
 fleeing from noise or the violent agitation of the water ;
 
 328 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. xi. 
 
 but, in an extremely interesting written account which I 
 received of the flight of a party of native Christians across 
 the northern part of the island, I met, among details of their 
 perils in the wilderness, with notices of the crocodile which 
 at first appeared to me scarcely credible. In describing a 
 part of the journey the writer observes: 
 
 "We then entered a thicket or wood of small bamboos, 
 where in many places there was water up to the knees, and 
 there were many crocodiles in the water. We were nine 
 days in that wood, and had nothing to eat but clay and wa- 
 ter. It was all water or marshy ground, and we found no 
 place to lie down and sleep on except when we came to a 
 tree or a piece of ground somewhat raised and dry. We 
 frequently came upon crocodiles, sometimes trod upon them, 
 and when we lay down at night we smelt them (near us)." 
 
 Three of the fugitives were present when I first read their 
 narrative, and on my pausing and expressing my wonder, 
 asking if they really did tread on the reptiles, and inquiring 
 how they ever escaped, they said when the crocodile was 
 ia the water, or saw its prey before it, it was ferocious and 
 irresistible ; but when they trod upon it in the swamp it 
 seemed greatly frightened, and, instead of attacking them, 
 seemed to try to get away or to penetrate deeper into the 
 mud. 
 
 The writer of the account continues : " We did not ex- 
 pect to live or ever to see men again, for we thought we 
 should die in that swamp. But after nine days we came to 
 an open country, and when we had proceeded a short dis- 
 tance we came to a place where there were great numbers 
 of water-lilies growing. We gathered and ate the leaves of 
 the lilies, and remained five days in the place where we 
 found this food. When we went on again we soon came 
 to a broad river, where we stopped two days and cut a large 
 quantity of long coarse grass, which we tied in a bundle to 
 serve the purpose of a raft ; we also made a rope of long
 
 CHAP. xi. VISIT TO THE HOT SPRINGS. 329 
 
 grass with which to draw the raft across the river. Then 
 I swam with one end of the rope to the other side of the 
 river. My wife and a woman pushed the bundle of grass 
 into the water, placed their bundles and the little child on 
 the top of the raft of grass, and I pulled it across, while the 
 women swam one on each side of the bundle to keep it up- 
 right, and so all reached the shore safely, though the stream 
 was rapid, and there were numbers of crocodiles in the 
 river." 
 
 But to continue the narrative of my own journey. Soon 
 after leaving the river where the natives of the place had 
 warned us against the crocodiles, we crossed another river, 
 wide, shallow, and clear, flowing over smooth, rounded 
 quartz pebbles. Large blocks of quartz were here scattered 
 over the surface of the country, which was overgrown with 
 tufts of a small rush, or round, tough, wiry grass. Having 
 crossed as many as eight rivers during the day, we arrived 
 in the evening at the village of Eanomafana literally Hot- 
 water so called on account of some hot springs in the 
 neighborhood. As soon as my palanquin had been taken 
 into the house, I set out with my bearers to visit the springs. 
 After proceeding about half a mile we crossed a river, and 
 on the opposite side found the water bubbling up through 
 the sandy soil within a few feet of the stream. The ground 
 was strewed with shining particles, and the course of the 
 water from several crevices was marked with a ferruginous 
 deposit. The water which issued from the chasm was quite 
 hot to the touch, and on placing the thermometer, which 
 previously stood at 78 Fahrenheit, in the spring, it instant- 
 ly rose to 140, the highest mark on the instrument, but not 
 sufficiently high to indicate the heat of the water. Numer- 
 ous bubbles rose continually to the surface, but the water 
 was tasteless. The natives, in carrying me back over the 
 river, stated that the ground and the water at the bottom 
 of the river, about four feet deep on the side next to the
 
 330 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. xi. 
 
 springs, was quite hot, though the surface of the water was 
 cool. 
 
 I had scarcely finished my evening meal, when a crowd 
 gathered in front of the house, with native music and sing- 
 ing. Before the door a man and a woman held each one 
 end of a bamboo, about three inches in diameter and six 
 feet long. On the other side, five women stood with sticks 
 in their hands, beating in concert a sort of native tune on 
 the hollow bamboo, and singing at the same time in loud 
 but monotonous tones, which, I was told, was for my espe- 
 cial gratification. The noise, however, was so great, that I 
 was glad to give them a piece of silver to retire. One of 
 my bearers, who had carried me during the day over nearly 
 twenty miles of by no means level road, was dancing to the 
 music ; so that I felt easy about his not having been over- 
 tasked with his burden. On leaving my door, the musi- 
 cians adjourned to the next house, where they kept up 
 their performance till past midnight. 
 
 The next morning was dark, and the rain again falling 
 heavily ; we therefore remained here during the day. Many 
 of the natives of the place came to the house, as had been 
 their habit at most of the places where we had halted. I 
 was struck, as I had been at most of the villages of the 
 Betanimena, and also the Betsimasaraka, with the physical 
 appearance of the people. The men whom I saw were, 
 with few exceptions, well formed, stout, and active, rather 
 above the middle stature. The women were short and 
 muscular. I scarcely saw a woman tall or thin. The men 
 were usually good-looking, but this could scarcely be said 
 of the women, few of whom, judged by the European stand- 
 ard of beauty, would have been considered handsome, and 
 none of them pretty. I rarely saw an ill-formed head, or 
 a low or retreating forehead. The majority of the people 
 certainly presented well-proportioned, high, perpendicular 
 foreheads. So much so, that I often wished my photo-
 
 CHAP. xi. DESCRIPTION OF THE PEOPLE. 331 
 
 graphic apparatus had been available during the journey. 
 The foreheads of the women were not inferior to those of 
 the men. The head was broad, and the face rather round 
 than oval. The eyebrows were well marked and but slight- 
 ly arched. The eyes not large, but often clear and bright. 
 The nose was small at its junction with the forehead, and 
 rather flat than otherwise. The mouth was often large, the 
 lips full and slightly projecting ; the teeth white and large, 
 occasionally overcrowded, as if too numerous to stand even. 
 The chin frequently, but not always, projecting. The top 
 of the head was round and full, the lower part of the back 
 of the head flat, and almost forming a straight line from the 
 back of the crown to the neck. The hair was jet black, 
 crisp, and sometimes curly, usually fastened in two or three 
 round balls at the side of the head, and braided into a sort 
 of cue behind. When inclined to be woolly, it was loose- 
 ly so. I never saw the hair of any Malagasy so woolly as 
 that of some of the African tribes, the most remarkable in- 
 stance of which to me was that of Sechele, the tall, noble- 
 looking chief of Kolobeng, whom I saw at Cape Town, and 
 the covering of whose finely -formed head hung down, not 
 in ringlets, but in cords of the most closely-matted fine 
 woolly hair. 
 
 In person, the Malagasy appeared to be generally well 
 formed, with perhaps some little disproportion in the short- 
 ness of the neck. The chest, however, was well developed, 
 the trunk broad, the limbs muscular, the gait firm, and the 
 complexion a rich warm brown. I scarcely saw a deformed 
 person in the country. The women were generally covered 
 from the neck to the ankles ; but the men at work in the 
 fields often wore a piece of cloth round their waists. Few, 
 if any, ornaments, except a crocodile's tooth, or beads on a 
 string tied round the wrist, were worn by the common 
 people. 
 
 Soon after seven in the morning we resumed our journey,
 
 332 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. xi. 
 
 our company being now reduced to about seventy persons, 
 and the packages also being diminished to twenty-five. Our 
 route lay over a richly-wooded fertile country, diversified 
 by masses of rock, chiefly quartz, sometimes of a beautiful 
 pink color, and occasionally a species of basalt. 
 
 Since we had left the lower country the rofia had become 
 smaller and less frequent, but the traveler's-tree was abund- 
 ant on the sides of the hills and in the valleys, and in even- 
 moist part of the country, appearing at this elevation to at- 
 tain its greatest perfection. This tree, Urania speciosa, is al- 
 together one of the most remarkable that has been discov- 
 ered in Madagascar; and the extent to which it prevails 
 may be inferred from the native name, ravinala, by which 
 it was designated by Sonnerat, its discoverer. Eavinala is 
 literally leaf of the forest, as if it was the leaf by which the 
 forest was characterized, which is the fact where it abounds, 
 though in many parts it is not met with at all. The tree 
 rises from the ground with a thick succulent stem like that 
 of the plantain, or the larger species of strelitzia, to both of 
 which it bears a strong resemblance. It sends out from the 
 centre of the stem long broad leaves like those of the plan- 
 tain, only less fragile, and rising, not round the stalk, but 
 in two lines on opposite sides, so that as the leaves increase, 
 and the lower ones droop at the end, or extend horizontally, 
 the tree presents the appearance of a large open fan. When 
 the stem rises ten or twelve feet high the lower part of the 
 outer covering becomes hard and dry, like the bark of the 
 cocoa-nut-tree. Many of the trees in this region were at 
 least thirty feet from the ground to the lowest leaves. I fre- 
 quently counted from twenty to twenty-four leaves on "a 
 single tree, the stalk of each leaf being six or eight feet long, 
 and the broad leaf itself four or six feet more. 
 
 The whole of these twenty-four bright green gigantic 
 leaves, spread out like a fan at the top of a trunk thirty 
 feet high, presented a spectacle as impressive as it was to
 
 TRAVELER'S TUBE (URANIA SPECIOSA), SHOWING THE MODE OF OBTAINING WATER FROM TUB "RBOEPTAOLE AT THE 
 
 END OF THE STALKS OF THE LEAVES.
 
 CHAP. xi. DESCRIPTION OF THE TRAVELER'S-TREE. 335 
 
 me rare and beautiful ; and in this part of the country they 
 were the most conspicuous objects for miles together, and 
 were it not that these vast bright-green shining leaves are 
 slit on each side by the winds, and so flutter in smaller por- 
 tions with the passing breeze, the prevalence of this tree 
 would impart a degree of almost inconceivable magnificence 
 to the vegetation of the country. 
 
 In the fan-like head of the traveler's-tree there were 
 generally three or four branches of seed pods. The parts 
 of fructification seemed to be inclosed in a tough firm 
 spathe, like those of the cocoa-nut ; but the subsequent de- 
 velopment was more like that of the fruit of the plantain. 
 When the pods, or seed vessels, of which there were forty 
 or fifty on each bunch, were ripe, they burst open, and each 
 pod was seen to inclose thirty or more seeds, in shape like 
 a small bean, but enveloped in a fine silky fibre of the most 
 brilliant blue or purple color.* 
 
 But this tree has been most celebrated for containing, 
 even during the most arid season, a large quantity of pure 
 fresh water, supplying to the traveler the place of wells in 
 the desert. Whenever I inquired of the natives they al- 
 ways affirmed that such was the fact, and that so abundant 
 and pure was the water, that when the men were at work 
 near the trees they did not take the trouble to go to the 
 stream for water, but drew off and drank the water from 
 the tree. Having formerly been somewhat skeptical on 
 this point, I determined to examine some of the trees ; and, 
 during my journey this morning, we stopped near a clump 
 of the trees. One of my bearers struck a spear four or five 
 inches deep into the thick firm end of the stalk of the leaf, 
 about six inches above its junction with the trunk, and, on 
 drawing it back, a stream of pure clear water gushed out, 
 
 * A specimen of these beautiful seeds, given to me afterward by Mr. Dow- 
 land, at Mauritius, is now deposited in the museum of the Royal Gardens 
 at Kew.
 
 336 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. xi. 
 
 about a quart of which, we caught in a pitcher, and all 
 drank of it on the spot. It was cool, clear, and perfectly 
 sweet. On farther examination, I found that there was no 
 filtration of the water through any part of the plant, as I 
 had been led to suppose when I had seen water drawn by 
 Sir "William Hooker from one of the specimens in the palm 
 house at Kew. There was a kind of natural cavity, or cis- 
 tern, at the base of the stalk of each of the leaves, above its 
 union with the stem, and the water which had been collect- 
 ed on the broad and ribbed surface of the leaf had flowed 
 down a groove or spout on the upper side of the stalk into 
 this natural reservoir, whence it supplied nutriment to the 
 tree, and refreshment to the traveler or the laborer. 
 
 But in Madagascar this tree might, with propriety, be 
 called the builders-tree rather than the traveler's-tree. Its 
 leaves form the thatch of all the houses on the eastern side 
 of the island. The stems of its leaves form the partitions, 
 and often sides of the houses ; and the hard outside bark is 
 stripped from the inner and soft part, and, having been 
 beaten out flat, is laid for flooring ; and I have seen the en- 
 tire floor of a long well-built house covered with its bark, 
 each piece being at least eighteen inches wide and twenty 
 or thirty feet long. The leaf, when green, is used as a 
 wrapper for packages, and keeps out the rain. Large 
 quantities are also sold every morning in the markets, as it 
 serves the purpose of table-cloth, dishes, and plates, at 
 meals; and, folded into certain forms, is used instead of 
 spoons and drinking- vessels. 
 
 Leaving the traveler's-trees, we resumed our journey, 
 crossing the water eight times during our morning's march : 
 and ascending and descending as many hilly or mountain- 
 ous ridges, where the path was at times so steep and slip- 
 pery as greatly to impede our progress, and along which it 
 seemed scarcely possible that burdens should be carried. I 
 could neither walk up nor down, without the help of one
 
 CHAP. xi. MEALS BY THE WAYSIDE. 337 
 
 or more of the bearers. About eleven we reached Amba- 
 toharanana, where we halted for breakfast. My habit was 
 to take two meals a day, but both of the same kind of food. 
 The first about noon, the other in the evening. On halting 
 in a village, one of the bearers took a small measure of rice, 
 and went among the cottages to exchange it for a bundle 
 of fuel, which was sometimes rather scarce ; as soon as this 
 is obtained, and a fire lighted, a quantity of rice was clean- 
 ed, by being pounded in a wooden mortar, and afterward 
 winnowed in a fan. It was then put on to boil in an earth- 
 en pot, borrowed from some of the inhabitants, who after- 
 ward shared its contents. While this was cooking, a fowl 
 was killed and cut up ; and when the rice was boiled, the 
 fowl was fried. The tea-kettle was in the mean time placed 
 by the side of the fire. In some places, the device for a 
 trivet consisted of three pegs of wood, a species of succu- 
 lent wood so thoroughly saturated with wet as to burn 
 very slowly. My meals were served in remarkably primi- 
 tive style ; and I sometimes thought it was well that there 
 would be an interval between my Malagasy journey and 
 the beginning of usages at home, or I might be in danger 
 of forgetting some of the proprieties of more civilized life. 
 
 On these occasions a mat was generally spread on the 
 ground. My small canteen, containing crockery, cutlery, 
 etc., served for a table, and was covered with fresh clean 
 leaves of the traveler's-tree. The fowl was served in a dish, 
 and one plate remained. The want of others was supplied 
 by the broad green leaf on which the manioc, sweet potato, 
 and other vegetables were served. The tea-pot, cup, and 
 saucer, to prevent accident, were usually placed on the floor 
 by the side of the box, an egg beaten up in a cup serving 
 as a substitute for milk with the tea. The door, the only 
 avenue for light or air, was always open, and five or six 
 athletic men, who had probably helped in the cooking, sat 
 round within the door. One usually whisked away the 
 
 Y
 
 338 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. xi. 
 
 flies with a green bough, the others discussed the news of 
 the day, or perhaps scared away a hungry dog from the 
 door. When my meal was over, the bearers, if they had 
 not been able to obtain the use of another house, brought 
 their own rice, or whatever they might have, and took their 
 meal in the same house, where they were sometimes joined 
 by the owners. 
 
 The quantity of rice a man would sometimes eat ap- 
 peared to me enormous. They generally cook more at one 
 tune than they use, and bake the rice adhering to the sides 
 of the vessel in which it is cooked until it is brown, then 
 pouring in fresh water, boil it into a sort of coffee, which all 
 classes are accustomed to drink after their meals. Some- 
 tunes in addition to other presents brought me by the peo- 
 ple was a small quantity of honey, generally clear and good. 
 It was some satisfaction to me to see that, heavy as the 
 roads were, my bearers did not become thinner, or look the 
 worse for their journey. 
 
 In the afternoon we again resumed our journey, crossing 
 the water of the same or different rivers five times, and 
 traveling for a considerable distance along the steep bank 
 of the Farimbongy, a broad and rapid stream. Later in 
 the afternoon we reached Mahela, where we halted for the 
 night, having traveled nearly twenty miles over roads that 
 in England would have been deemed impassable. Wher- 
 ever the road was at all level, the path was through deep 
 clayey mud. The steep ascents and descents, of a hundred 
 or three hundred feet in extent, were sometimes traversed 
 by a slanting path along a narrow, deep hollow, worn by 
 the water. At other times the path lay along a narrow 
 way, full of ridges and holes, pent up between steep banks 
 from ten to twenty feet high, of red or pinkish clay,* con- 
 taining fragments of quartz, rocks of which also sometimes 
 
 * The country answers to its name, Betanimena, which signifies much 
 red earth.
 
 CHAP. xi. NEW AND BEAUTIFUL PLANTS. 339 
 
 overhang the path, which itself was occasionally so narrow 
 that I could touch both sides at once. 
 
 When our way led through forest or wood, the large, 
 smooth, slippery roots of the trees, forming a sort of net- 
 work along the path, and having their interstices filled with 
 water, rendered traveling still more difficult; and while I 
 felt grateful that we had passed without accident, I could 
 not but admire the sure-footedness and care evinced by 
 the bearers. Although where it was practicable I always 
 walked, or rather scrambled up or down the most difficult 
 places, it required at times, during this part of the journey, 
 the whole eight bearers to keep the palanquin upright, and 
 to prevent the whole of us from being precipitated down 
 the steep declivity before us, or over the precipice on our 
 side. 
 
 I had walked over two hollows, had ascended and de- 
 scended two of the highest ridges we had passed during the 
 day, and had seen much that was new among the vegetable 
 productions of the country. There were, however, only 
 few orchids, but among them was an angraecum new to me, 
 with bright yellow flowers. I obtained one or two speci- 
 mens, which I gave to a young chief, who considerately 
 offered to carry them for me; but when we reached the 
 end of the journey I found that, deeming them of no par- 
 ticular value, he had thrown them away on the road. I 
 saw a number of ferns and lycopodiums in the hollows, but 
 only obtained one or two fronds of a species somewhat re- 
 sembling Adiantum trapezif&rme. I noticed some beautiful 
 small variegated plants growing in the damp places at the 
 roots of the forest trees, bearing claret-colored leaves, veined 
 with gold, like those of echites, though the plant was not 
 shrubby. 
 
 As we arrived at our halting-place rather early, and the 
 weather was fair, I could not refrain from going into the 
 adjacent dells in search of plants. A species of justicia
 
 340 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. XL 
 
 covered much of the ground, which greatly resembled one 
 of the kinds cultivated in England, though the flower was 
 scarcely so good. The only rarities I met with were a new 
 lycopodium, somewhat resembling L. umbrosum, but larger, 
 and a pretty creeping fern. 
 
 In passing over a part of the country where the gigantic 
 heath was abundant, I observed before me a large heap, as 
 much as one or two cart-loads, of withered branches lying 
 in the middle of the way, and I noticed that each of the 
 bearers, as he approached the place, plucked a large branch, 
 or pulled up a plant of the heath, and uttering, apparently 
 in a laughing manner, a few words, cast the branches on 
 the pile as he passed by. A number of bamboos were fixed 
 in the ground round about, to which shreds or pieces of 
 foreign cloth were attached. On inquiring what the heap 
 was, I was told it was the accumulated offerings of travelers, 
 and that my men had thrown their own pieces on the heap 
 to insure a safe journey to the party. In other parts of the 
 journey I passed spots regarded with superstitious feelings 
 by the natives, and where I was told offerings were occa- 
 sionally presented. 
 
 There is generally a wide open space in the centre of 
 every village of any size ; and in the space in front of my 
 house here there were several pieces of wood about eight 
 or nine feet high, cut smooth and square at the base, but 
 spreading into two or three branches at about five feet from 
 the ground, and gradually tapering to a point. These, I 
 was told, were objects of worship in fact, the idols of the 
 village. They seemed to have been shaped and smoothed 
 with care, but were now in a state of decay. In the same 
 place was a large basaltic stone of a prismatic form standing 
 five feet out of the ground, and near it a smooth round 
 stone of the same substance, and about the size of a man's 
 head. My informant, alluding to the language of the 
 prophet about praying to the rock, told me that prayers,
 
 CHAP. XI. 
 
 OBJECTS OF WORSHIP. 
 
 341 
 
 at certain times, were offered to the tall stone, and blood 
 sprinkled and fat burned upon the other. I had observed 
 similar stones, sometimes inclosed by a wooden fence, in 
 more than one of the villages at which we had halted, but 
 knowing that the adherents to the superstitions of the coun- 
 try were exceedingly sensitive on the subject, and averse to 
 all inquiry or questioning, especially by foreigners, as well as 
 jealous of any thing that might weaken the influence of 
 their imagined objects of fear and worship upon the minds 
 of the natives, I had generally abstained from all remarks 
 on the subject to the people around.
 
 342 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. xii. 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 Beauty of the Mountain Scenery. Mode of catching a Bullock. Charms 
 against evil Dreams. Tomb of a Chief. Weeping-place of the Hovas. 
 Beautiful Forms of Growth of the Bamboo. Wild Cattle and wild 
 Boars. Former Hunting-excursions in Madagascar. Frightful Roads. 
 The great Forest of Alamazaotra. Magnitude of the Trees, Beauty of 
 the Flowers, and Rarity of the Ferns. The Ferry of Mangoro. Milita- 
 ry Salute. Friends from the Capital. Breakfast with a Hova Family. 
 Prince Ramonja's Village. Salutation of his aged Nurse. Presents from 
 his Tenantry. Extent and Beauty of the Valley of Angavo. The Mount- 
 ain Pass and Fortress. Village Market. Locusts caught and preserved 
 for Food. Houses of Ankova. First Night in a Hova Village. Depre- 
 dations of the Rats and Mice. The feudal-looking Village of Ambato- 
 manga. Accommodations and Lodging. Friends from v the Capital. 
 Tombs of the Hovas. Interior of the House at Amboipo. Native Silk- 
 weaving. 
 
 
 
 ON the morning of the 15th of August we were stirring 
 by daylight, and, in descending from the village of Mahela, 
 crossed the Farimbongy, a river between twenty and thirty 
 yards wide, and along the banks of which we had traveled 
 on the previous day. Ascending the hill on the opposite 
 side, we pursued our way along the ridges of the hills. I 
 walked up a steep ascent, and was tempted to prolong my 
 walk for a mile or two. From the summit of one of the 
 ridges that we crossed I obtained a view of the sea off 
 Tamatave, and stretching away to the southward of Hivon- 
 dro. The well-defined line of the distant horizon which 
 the ocean formed was very distinct as seen above the tops 
 of the intervening ranges of mountains which we had cross- 
 ed ; and the elevation of our present route must have been 
 considerable, as we must have been nearly a hundred miles 
 from the sea.
 
 CHAP. xii. MODE OF CATCHING A BULLOCK. 343 
 
 The morning was clear, and the prospect wide and beau- 
 tiful. In some directions were seen the hollows of the near- 
 est valleys, with their grass or thatched houses, composing 
 their straggling villages, having the gardens and rice-grounds 
 of the natives around them. Beyond these the marshes or 
 swamps appeared in several places, together with cattle 
 feeding on the higher ground ; the sides of the hills were 
 clothed with wood, and the tops of the mountains appar- 
 ently composed of masses of granite. In other directions a 
 dense white cloud or vapor stretched across the valleys, 
 concealing all they contained, and only leaving visible the 
 summits of the loftier mountains. Vegetation was still 
 abundant, though not so luxuriant as in the region over 
 which we had traveled. The soil, as seen on the banks of 
 the rivers, or by the steep and freshly -broken sides of the 
 ravines, was of yellow or pink clay, with fragments of 
 quartz intermingled to a great depth. 
 
 About nine o'clock we reached Ampasimbe, one of the 
 government post-stations. Before I had finished my break- 
 fast a good fat bullock was driven near the door. A chief 
 came, and, pointing to the animal, told me it was a present 
 which he had been directed to make to me, from Kainibe- 
 hevitra, the chief at Tamatave ; I gratefully acknowledged 
 the present, and then told Izaro to have it slaughtered for 
 the men. Off the men went without needing another word, 
 surrounded the animal, and, after chasing and dodging for 
 some time, with one or two ineffectual attempts to hold it 
 by the horns and the tail, a number of them seized and 
 threw it down by main force, and then, fastening ropes to 
 its horns and legs, led it to the place of slaughter. It was 
 soon killed and cut up, each portion being distributed with 
 the skin on; for, excepting at Tamatave, where the skin 
 sells for a dollar in the market, they never think of skin- 
 ning their bullocks, and frequently cook their beef with the 
 skin on it. Pieces of skin cut up, mixed with fat, and boil-
 
 344 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. xii. 
 
 ed till it forms a kind of jelly, is said to be a favorite dish. 
 A piece of the ribs with the skin on was brought as my 
 share. It is astonishing what excitement the killing of a 
 bullock produces. The men are as busy as bees, and on 
 each of these joyful occasions I had reason to expect that 
 nothing but cooking would be done for the rest of the day. 
 While resting here one of the chiefs cautioned me against 
 walking so much, especially in the woods, as the fatigue of 
 walking, added to the damp of the forest, would be very 
 likely to produce fever. 
 
 When the bearers gathered round my door on the fol- 
 lowing morning, I noticed that a number of them had spots 
 of white clay, like paint, upon the cheek or forehe'ad, and 
 under the ear, and one or two had a white circle round the 
 eye. I had noticed the same once or twice before upon the 
 face of one of the chiefs, as well as others of our party ; and, 
 on inquiring the cause, I was told that the mark round the 
 eye was a medicinal application, but that the others were 
 put on as a sort of charm, to avert the evil apprehended 
 after the unpleasant dreams of the past night. I could not 
 help thinking that the quantity of beef they had eaten, after 
 the slaughtering of the ox on the previous day, had proba- 
 bly more to do with their dreams than either witchcraft or 
 evil spirits. 
 
 On leaving the village, we ascended and kept chiefly along 
 the lateral hills which extend from the sides of the high 
 mountain ranges running north and south along this part 
 of the island. 
 
 Near one of the villages we passed the newly-made grave 
 of a Hova chief. It consisted of a space thirty feet square, 
 inclosed by stone walls four or five feet high. The inside 
 was filled with earth to the level of the top of the walls, and 
 had a small stone structure standing in the centre. The 
 grave stood upon the summit of a circular hill overlooking 
 the village, and surrounded by an amphitheatre of wooded
 
 CHAP. xii. THE WEEPING-PLACE OF THE HOVAS. 345 
 
 mountains. There was something peculiarly affecting to 
 me in the solitude and loveliness of the spot which the chief^ 
 probably the proprietor of the village below, had selected 
 for his last resting-place. The Hova chiefs manifest consid- 
 erable solicitude about their graves; and I was told that 
 one of the chief officers who died lately at the capital re- 
 quested of his sons, shortly before his death, that after his 
 interment they would occasionally remove the large stone 
 slab that would form the door of his sepulchre, and let the 
 sun shine in upon him. 
 
 During the morning I walked a considerable distance, 
 though the ground was wet, and much of our way through 
 the forest which covered the summit of the hill. Once or 
 twice in the intervals of open country, when the horizon was 
 clear, we again obtained a view of the distant ocean. The 
 view from one of these summits was extensive, varied, and 
 exceedingly beautiful, but, at the same time, deeply affect- 
 ing, from the mournful associations with the past with which 
 it was connected. To the west, or before us as we were as- 
 cending, were the lofty wooded ridges which we yet had to 
 climb, and beyond the summits of these mountains the bor- 
 ders of Imerina. To the east was the wooded and partly- 
 cultivated valley immediately below us ; and stretching to 
 the north and the south, and on the opposite sides of this 
 valley, the descending ridges of the mountain ranges over 
 which we had passed, diversified with rock, and herbage, 
 and forest; while beyond these, in the far distance, swept 
 the dim, dark, but yet well-defined line of the wide waters 
 of the ocean. This spot, surrounded as it is by scenes of 
 vastness, grandeur, and beauty, is called " The Weeping- 
 place of the Hovas;" a name of just and mournful import, 
 connected with the miseries of the slave-trade, which, by 
 virtue of a treaty between this country and England was 
 abolished in the year 1817. It has been calculated that, 
 previous to this period, between three and four thousand
 
 346 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. xn. 
 
 unhappy beings were exported annually as slaves. Great 
 numbers of these came from the capital, where they were col- 
 lected from more remote provinces, and sold to factors or 
 dealers, who resorted thither for the purpose of purchasing 
 and conducting them to the coast. It was at this place that 
 the manacled and goaded slave, forced from home and coun- 
 try and all that makes life dear, obtained his first view of the 
 sea, across which he was to be carried to a land of unknown 
 hardships, misery, and death; and, when he reached this 
 spot, his eye had rested also, for the last time, on the lofty 
 summits of the mountains of his beloved Imerina. We do 
 not wonder at such a spot being called " The Weeping-place 
 of the Hovas." The treaty for the abolition of the trade in 
 slaves, formed in 1817, was faithfully observed by Radama, 
 who even put some of his own relatives to death for not re- 
 garding it ; but it was violated during the absence of Sir R. 
 Farquhar on a visit to England, by General Hall, who was 
 acting-governor of Mauritius at the time, and restored the 
 traffic in slaves. In 1820, when the British agent, who was 
 sent to renew the treaty, and the missionary were on their 
 way to the capital, and just on the outskirts of the great 
 forest before us, they met about a thousand slaves going 
 from Imerina to the coast, each one chained by a ring of 
 heavy iron round the wrist, and bearing a heavy burden. 
 
 As we continued our journey, the vegetation of the coun- 
 try around us became entirely changed. The rofia palm 
 was no longer seen. The traveler's-tree was stunted and 
 scarce ; but the base of the hills and the valleys were cov- 
 ered with the bamboo, which was far more abundant than 
 during any former par\; of the journey. There were at 
 least four distinct varieties : one a large-growing kind, erect 
 nearly to the point ; a second smaller, seldom rising much 
 above twenty feet in height, bushy at the base, and grace- 
 fully bending down its tapering point. A third kind rose 
 in single cane, almost without a leaf, to the height of thirty
 
 CHAP. xn. BEAUTY OF THE BAMBOO. 347 
 
 feet or more ; or, bending over, formed a perfectly circular 
 arch. I also saw a bamboo growing as a creeper, with 
 small short joints feathered with slender leafy branches at 
 every joint, and stretching in festoons from tree to tree 
 along the side of the road, or hanging suspended in single 
 lines from a projecting branch, and swinging gently with 
 the passing breeze. The appearance of the bamboo when 
 growing is exceedingly graceful. Sometimes the canes, as 
 thick as a man's arm at the base, rise forty or fifty feet high, 
 fringed at the joints, which are two or three feet apart, with 
 short branches of long lance-shaped leaves. The smaller 
 kinds, which abound most in this region, are still more ele- 
 gant ; and the waving of the canes, with their attenuated 
 but feathery-looking points, bending down like a plume, and 
 the tremulous quivering, even in the slightest breeze, of their 
 long slender leaves, present ever-varying aspects of beauty ; 
 and, combined with the bright green color of the bamboo 
 cane and leaf, impart an indescribable charm to the entire 
 landscape. 
 
 I had seen in South Africa patches of bamboo which were 
 said to yield considerable profit to their owners, by furnish- 
 ing handles for the whips with which the African wagon- 
 driver keeps his long team of oxen in order. But handles 
 for the whips of all the wagon-drivers upon earth, and rods 
 for all the anglers in the world, might be taken from the re- 
 gions through which we were passing without being missed. 
 The fences in this part of the country are formed with the 
 bamboo, and the walls, and even the floors, of the generality 
 of houses are of the same material. The roofs of these 
 houses are covered with grass. 
 
 Our road was now steep, rugged, slippery, and more diffi- 
 cult than any we had before passed over, and it was noon 
 before we reached Marozivongy, a small village situated in 
 a hollow, where we halted for breakfast. The people were 
 hospitable. The mistress of the house at which we stopped
 
 348 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. xn. 
 
 presented me with a bunch of native bananas, remarkably 
 fine fruit. Each banana was nearly eighteen inches long, and 
 curled like a bullock's horn. The only cooking-place was 
 the house in which I sat. The fuel was wet, and the grass 
 roof not admitting the escape of the smoke, the atmosphere 
 proved exceedingly painful to my eyes. I tried to stand 
 out of doors when it did not rain, but there was only a yard 
 or two that was not some inches deep in water and clay, 
 worked up into stiff mud by the passing to and fro of the 
 people and the cattle. The inhabitants of the villages do 
 not seem to have advanced in civilization so far as drainage ; 
 and from the state of the villages themselves, as well as the 
 swampy wet grounds around, they seemed as unhealthy 
 places as it was possible to imagine. 
 
 After a couple of hours' rest, and many expressions of 
 kindness from the people, we resumed our journey. Great 
 part of the way was through a thick forest, over steep and 
 slippery paths and through narrow passes, along which it 
 seemed impossible to carry a palanquin ; while the heavy 
 rain which fell during great part of the time, rendered our 
 progress still more difficult. During this afternoon's jour- 
 ney we crossed four rivers swollen with the rain ; and about 
 five o'clock reached Beforana, a tolerably large village, sit- 
 uated in a swampy hollow, surrounded by woody hills. 
 My quarters were not uncomfortable, but I felt shivery and 
 cold. The chiefs brought in the customary present, and 
 shortly afterward the owner of the house came, accompa- 
 nied by his wife and children, bringing a small basket of 
 very white rice, with a duck and a fowl, as a present He 
 said that Messrs. Johns, and others, had always stopped at 
 his house when traveling to and from the capital ; that he 
 was glad to see me there, and had brought the small pres- 
 ent as a token of his good- will. I thanked the kind family 
 for their present, and expressed my deep sense of the hos- 
 pitality manifested in every place. After they had retired,
 
 CHAP. xii. WILD HOGS. 349 
 
 I found my bearers somewhat fatigued and wishing to halt 
 here for a day before penetrating the great forest ; and 
 though I was anxious to get beyond the region of fever as 
 soon as possible, yet, as the next day was Sunday, I was 
 glad to arrange that it should be a day of rest. 
 
 Although my palanquin had been placed near the fire at 
 which my supper was cooked, it was not dry when I re- 
 tired to rest. I did not, however, apprehend any incon- 
 venience, as it had before been hung up while wet ; but I 
 awoke in the night in a state of great heat and pain, in con- 
 sequence of which I kept closely in the house during the 
 whole of the following day. 
 
 The morning of Monday was fine, and, being anxious to 
 proceed, we started early. While the bearers were prepar- 
 ing the packages, my attention was attracted by a number 
 of men with spears, who were chasing a large black hog 
 past the village ; and on inquiry I was informed that it was 
 a stray hog, probably from the adjacent woods. In some 
 of the villages, and even districts, hogs are prohibited by 
 the government, at the instance of the diviners or idol- 
 keepers, who assert that these and other animals are pecul- 
 iarly obnoxious to the idols, which are to some extent re- 
 garded as the tutelary divinities of the place. Whether it 
 was on this account or merely for the sport I did not ascer- 
 tain, but the appearance of the animal produced great ex- 
 citement in the village. 
 
 Wild boars exist in considerable numbers in the forests. 
 According to the descriptions of them given by the natives 
 they are different animals from the domesticated hog, and 
 are called by a different name ; kisoa being the name of the 
 hog, but the wild boar is called lambo. They are said to 
 have tusks or horns growing under the eyes, probably the 
 callous protuberances of the Sus larvatus of Cuvier, which 
 inhabits parts of the adjacent continent of Africa. It would 
 seem as if the wild boar had at former periods existed in
 
 350 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. xu. 
 
 considerable numbers, and in all parts of the island, as one 
 of the few names by which the natives designate their 
 whole country is Nesindambo, literally, island of wild boars. 
 They are often chased and killed by the natives. Part of a 
 wild boar had not been an unfrequent dish at the tables of 
 the foreign resident of Tamatave at whose hospitable board 
 I was a guest during much of the time that I resided there. 
 The hunting of the wild boar, as well as of the wild cattle 
 which roam in large herds over the uninhabited parts of 
 the country, seems to have been a favorite pursuit with the 
 Nimrods of Madagascar from very early times. The croc- 
 odile is reported to have been the game of the Vazimba, or 
 earliest inhabitants of the country. At the time when Dru- 
 ry resided on the island, viz., 150 years ago, hunting the 
 wild cattle and wild boars was the occasional occupation 
 and amusement of the daring and adventurous chiefs of 
 that part of the island in which he resided, and, as the spear 
 was the weapon chiefly employed, the sport was far more 
 exciting and perilous than it has been of later times, the 
 mere act of slaughtering the animals being the least excit- 
 ing part of the sport. 
 
 The late King Eadama occasionally hunted the wild cat- 
 tle and other animals; but his hunting expeditions were 
 more like organized military invasions of the territories of 
 these denizens of the desert than ordinary pursuits of the 
 chase, and the numbers killed would seem to have surpass- 
 ed even the murderous battues of the German sportsmen. 
 Radama sometimes led two or three thousand troops to the 
 chase, and, as a portion of these carried fire-arms, the slaugh- 
 ter was immense. In an account which I obtained during 
 my visit of one of these hunting expeditions to a region 
 about a hundred miles or more to the west of the capital, 
 in the autumn of 1825, the writer, a native, states: "And 
 these are the animals we obtained in the end of September 
 and beginning of October :
 
 CHAP. xii. ABUNDANCE OF WILD GAME. 351 
 
 Wild cattle 3063 
 
 Wildfowl 2235 
 
 Wild boars 63 
 
 Large amphibious turtle 326 
 
 Large baskets of fish 5 
 
 Eels 183 
 
 Burrowing tenrecs 11 
 
 Tenrecs that do not burrow 7 
 
 Lemurs or monkeys 43 
 
 Crocodiles 13 
 
 We were only ten days hunting the wild oxen, and when 
 the flesh (of the oxen) was finished we hunted the wild 
 boars two days only. The wild fowl we took all in one 
 clay. We did not shoot the fowls, but obtained them by 
 catching them and striking them only. The wild cattle 
 and the wild boars were killed by the soldiers, and the 
 birds were caught by them. The crocodiles and the others, 
 viz., the fish, the turtles, the monkeys, and the hedgehogs, 
 were caught by the people, farmers, or villagers." Such is 
 the account, written from the field, which one of the hunts- 
 men gives as the result of thirteen days' sport. 
 
 The immense number of wild cattle slaughtered in ten 
 days, and of wild boars killed in two days, together with 
 the number of birds taken in a single day, show that the 
 game must have been exceedingly abundant. There does 
 not appear to have been any hunting expeditions for a 
 number of years past. The chief pursuits of the kind ap- 
 pear to have been for the destruction of the wild hogs. The 
 only sport in which the court takes part at the present time 
 is that of bull-fights at the capital. 
 
 But, leaving the natives to follow the large hog which 
 had just approached the outskirts of their village, we con- 
 tinued our way, the sun shining brightly as we mounted 
 the high ground to the east of the village. After crossing 
 a river we traveled on through the forest for about four 
 hours, when we descended to Irihitra, a small wood-cutter's
 
 352 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CIIAP. xii. 
 
 station consisting of four or five houses. Here we halted 
 for breakfast, and then continued our journey through a 
 dense forest of large and ancient trees, enlivened occasion- 
 ally by tree ferns or the graceful areca palms. 
 
 The road here was frightful the soil stiff clay, with deep 
 holes of mud and water. Our way was sometimes covered 
 with water, but more frequently up and down steep slippery 
 ravines, requiring detours on account of the gigantic trees 
 which had fallen across the track. The clayey sides and 
 rocky portions of the ravines were sometimes so steep that 
 my position was almost upright, and it frequently required 
 ten or twelve men to get the palanquin up and down. I 
 was not well enough to walk, but I frequently requested 
 the bearers to halt and rest, which they did once or twice, 
 when I got out, and they sat down in a comparatively level 
 spot for about ten minutes. I certainly felt, while the men 
 were toiling up the rugged ascent, that there was some 
 ground for the late Radama's remark, that he had two 
 generals, viz., General Hazo, forest, and General Tazo, fever, 
 in whose hands he would leave any invading army for an 
 army could make but slow way through such a country as 
 this. I could also readily imagine why, in 1816, some of 
 Captain Le Sage's men should have thrown themselves on 
 the ground, declaring they would die rather than attempt 
 to proceed farther. It would require more than a lifetime 
 to make even a passable road through this region. I after- 
 ward made a rough sketch of the road, and photographed 
 the palanquin and bearers. 
 
 We were yet in the forest when the sun went down, but 
 we still kept on walking along the course of a stream. 
 Gleaming lights at length indicated our approach to the 
 sleeping-place, and, in answer to the shouts of our men, 
 torches of bamboo-cane were soon afterward brought to 
 show us the way out of the river and along the path to the 
 houses. I entered the house appropriated to our use about
 
 THF. TBAVBLEE8 PASSING THBOUCiU THE GREAT FOBF.ST OP ALAMAZAOTEA.
 
 CHAP. xii. FOREST OF ALAMAZAOTKA. 355 
 
 seven in the evening, having been, with the exception of 
 two hours occupied by our breakfast, on the shoulders of 
 my bearers ever since seven in the morning ; and, had they 
 not been both skillful and strong, we could not have reached 
 this place on that night. One of the chiefs said if I had any 
 spirituous liquors with me it would be well to give some to 
 each of the bearers ; and, as my canteen contained a bottle 
 of brandy, which I found no occasion to use myself, I felt 
 no hesitation in giving a glass to each of the men. 
 
 This place is a post-station for relays of messengers for 
 the government, as well as a wood-cutter's village ; and the 
 chief, a tall Hova officer, soon brought a present of rice, 
 sweet potatoes, and poultry, with a large supply of dry fuel. 
 I acknowledged his kindness, and assured him that to give 
 so hospitable a welcome in such a place and at such an hour 
 was indeed treating me like a friend. The chief part of the 
 poultry, together with the rice and potatoes, were given to 
 the men, who soon cooked their supper and stretched them- 
 selves on their mats. I was glad to sit by the bright blaz- 
 ing fire while my own supper was prepared, and afterward 
 to write up my journal for the day in the same comfortable 
 place, for the nights had now become quite cool. 
 
 Fatigued as I was, my mind was greatly excited by the 
 scenes through which we had passed during the day. Ala- 
 mazaotra is one of the great forests of the island, or rather 
 part of the belt of forest which, at nearly the same eleva- 
 tion, is said to extend through the chief provinces of Mada- 
 gascar. It is said to be forty miles through ; but I did not 
 think we had traveled more than twenty-five miles during 
 this day. The forest appears to spread over the most une- 
 'qual ground, covering mountain ridges, steep precipices, and 
 broad or narrow valleys. Many of the trees are of stupen- 
 dous magnitude, apparently of hard wood and slow growth, 
 excepting some of the dombeyas, which were magnificent 
 trees. I noticed but few orchids, or parasitical plants of any
 
 356 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. xn. 
 
 kind, but creepers were abundant among them some sin- 
 gularly curious bamboos. Of one kind the cane was almost 
 as small as a quill, with a circle of fine small branches or 
 leaves around every joint, the joints being not more than 
 five or six inches apart. The long slender canes were often 
 nine or ten feet long, hanging pendent from the branches 
 of the trees, or stretching in grateful curves from tree to tree 
 along the sides of the road. I saw numbers of a species of 
 medinilla, and a flower very much like a Lophospermum 
 scandens, but growing on a shrubby plant. There were also 
 some pretty purple-flowered orchises, and a few lycopodi- 
 ums ; but it was the very Eden of ferns. 
 
 Tree ferns here exhibit great variety of form and foliage, 
 and some of these truly magnificent plants were visible in 
 every part of the forest ; while, among the dwarf species, 
 new ferns were continually presenting themselves. I only 
 obtained a few fronds of some that were nearest to the path ; 
 and it was sometimes quite tantalizing to see, perhaps half 
 way down the opposite side of a steep clay-formed ravine, a 
 group of ferns exceedingly beautiful, and apparently new, 
 but quite beyond present reach. On such occasions, I found 
 myself involuntarily exclaiming, " Oh you beauties ! I must 
 have you !" But I was seldom able to do more than point 
 them out to a young chief who might be walking by my 
 side, and request him to mark well the spot, that we might 
 remember it on our return. 
 
 Early the next morning we took our departure from the 
 station of Alamazaotra, and, ascending the opposite bank of 
 the river, again entered the forest, and pursued our way 
 through the same sort of wood for about an hour, when we 
 emerged into an open grassy country, with a comparatively 
 level path winding round the base of the hills. The bright 
 sunshine, the fresh morning breeze sweeping over the open 
 country, had such an exhilarating effect upon my bearers, 
 that they started off at a brisk, and almost trotting pace,
 
 CHAP. *n. ASPECT OF THE COUNTRY. 357 
 
 singi-ng in concert as they traveled along for a considerable 
 distance. We afterward passed through one or two patches 
 of forest ; and, between three and four hours from the time 
 of starting, halted for breakfast at Ampassapojy. Here, in 
 addition to the usual presents of food, the wife of the chief 
 brought me a basin of sweet new milk, the first I had tasted 
 since leaving Tamatave. I made her what I hoped was a 
 suitable return, as indeed I always endeavored to do for the 
 presents so kindly offered. 
 
 Setting out again soon after noon, we traveled nearly 
 west until about five o'clock, when we reached Moramanga, 
 a village on a hill, where we rested for the night, and where 
 a bullock was purchased and killed for the bearers. The 
 ground over which we had traveled had been comparatively 
 level, the soil clayey, covered with thick coarse grass, the 
 hills flatter, and more distant from each other. Many por- 
 tions of the country were gay with the Seva, or Buddka 
 Madagascarensis, covered with long spikes of orange-colored 
 flowers. I also met with a fine-growing fern, which I at 
 first thought was new, but which has since been pronounced 
 to be Osmunda regalia, indigenous in our own country, as 
 well as other regions. 
 
 The aspect of the country to the eastward of Moramanga 
 was novel and interesting. For a dozen miles or more the 
 district immediately below the village resembled a vast 
 grassy plain, bounded by the hills of Ankay, and beyond 
 them the high mountain ranges of Ankova, appearing not 
 with round or pointed saw-like summits, like the distant 
 outline of the horizon in the country through which we had 
 passed, but in long, blue, and almost level ranges of land, 
 each range receding farther away, but rising higher, and 
 presenting only here and there a small conical elevation. 
 
 More than one of the bearers of the packages had been 
 seized with illness during the journey ; and one to whom T 
 gave some medicine, though better, was unable to proceed.
 
 358 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. XH. 
 
 On the following morning it was discovered that four others 
 had left their companions during the night, notwithstanding 
 the distribution of the bullock and the promise of payment. 
 Leaving five packages, therefore, to be sent after us, we 
 started early across a flat country covered with coarse grass, 
 and passed two or three sluggish rivers, choked at the sides 
 with rushes and weeds. Over two of them were rude 
 bridges. The men remarked of one of the rivers, on which 
 I noticed a number of beautiful water-lilies in flower, that 
 there were plenty of crocodiles there. It was a wide muddy 
 river, in great part overgrown with reeds. 
 
 Between ten and eleven o'clock we reached Andakana, 
 where there is a ferry across the Mongoro, a smooth but 
 rapid river, about thirty yards wide. I was much surprised 
 at the great number both of men and women that crossed 
 the river during the time we halted on its banks. We re- 
 mained here about three hours, and were then ferried over ; 
 and, after ascending for a considerable time, we passed along 
 an elevated but level tract of country, until we came to a 
 high mountain range covered with wood. On reaching the 
 summit of a hill called Ifody we obtained a view as extens- 
 ive and magnificent as the country had yet presented. 
 The woods and mountain ranges of Ankay, over which we 
 had traveled, were spread out behind us to the east ; to the 
 north, the country of the Antsianaka, stretching away like 
 an almost unbroken table-land ; to the south was the mount- 
 ain range we had crossed, and the province of the Betsileo, 
 hilly and broken ; and before us, to the west, the country 
 of the Bezanozano and the mountain Angavo, beyond which 
 were the hills of Ankova. 
 
 Having rested ourselves, and gazed for a while on the 
 wide and varied panorama, we descended the hill, and 
 shortly afterward reached the small village of Ambodin- 
 ifody. This I suppose to be a military post, for two sol- 
 diers, one carrying a musket with a bayonet fixed to it, the
 
 CHAP. xii. FRIENDS FROM THE CAPITAL. 359 
 
 other a spear, stood outside the door of the house before 
 which my bearers halted. The soldiers saluted me or the 
 officer by whom I was accompanied. The one who carried 
 the musket gave the word of command, which, as the whole 
 was so sudden and unexpected, I might not perhaps hear 
 distinctly; but what I did comprehend seemed like, "Hear 
 rank take open order present fire!" These words were 
 rather startling, but my companions maintained the utmost 
 gravity. 
 
 While waiting here I walked out to search for plants in 
 some of the spots we had passed, and returning before sun- 
 set found a nice clean mat spread in the house I was to 
 occupy. 
 
 During the evening half a dozen friends arrived grave, 
 dignified men, whom I had never seen before, but with 
 some of whom I had repeatedly corresponded. The one 
 who came first brought a present of poultry and rice, and a 
 present from the prince, bidding me welcome, and express- 
 ing his pleasure at hearing of my approach toward the cap- 
 ital; the others had come three days' journey from the 
 capital to convey to me the greetings of their friends there. 
 Their welcome was indeed most affecting. They had much 
 to relate, and much to ask, and I was glad to assure them 
 of the deep affection and general interest felt in their wel- 
 fare by friends in England. We united in the expression 
 of our grateful feelings for having been permitted to meet 
 each other, and it was late before we parted later still be- 
 fore I could sleep. 
 
 By seven the next morning we resumed our journey, one 
 of my friends accompanying us in his palanquin. After 
 traveling about an hour a chief came out of an adjacent 
 house and earnestly solicited me to go in to see a sick per- 
 son. I had frequently given medicine to the bearers dur- 
 ing the journey with good effect, and their report of this 
 had perhaps caused the present application. On entering
 
 360 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. xn. 
 
 the house I found a young man about seventeen years of 
 age, the son of the host, suffering from fever. I told them 
 I had no medicine with me, but if they would send to the 
 place where I should halt I would give them some. The 
 brother of the sick man instantly offered to go with us, but 
 before we departed they said their morning meal was ready, 
 and invited us to partake with them. Not wishing to de- 
 cline the hospitality of this the first home of friends I had 
 come to visit, I was directed to a clean mat spread out on 
 one side of the floor, the friends with whom I had passed 
 the previous evening and the members of the family sitting 
 round. The covers were then taken off the large earthen 
 pots, standing on the fire near the centre of the house, and 
 the hosts helped their guests. A plate of nicely-boiled rice 
 and milk proved very acceptable to me, as I was still far 
 from well. The rice for the others was served in a bright- 
 ly-glazed earthen vessel, like a bowl fixed on a stand. On 
 the top of the rice the meat was placed, one or two horn 
 spoons were stuck in the rice, which was then placed before 
 the guests. The house was different in structure and ar- 
 rangement from those in the provinces through which I 
 had passed. It was smaller, and more compactly built. 
 The cracks in the walls were filled up with clay. The 
 sleeping-places were better arranged. The water was not 
 brought in from the river, and kept in bamboo canes six or 
 seven feet long; but was kept in large circular earthen 
 jars, holding two or three pailfuls each. From these the 
 water was obtained by dipping a ladle formed of the broad 
 end of a horn attached to a long wooden handle. I could 
 not but notice the superior neatness and comfort of the 
 house, and the cheerfulness of the family. 
 
 On resuming our journey we traveled over a broad flat 
 valley, where the extensive embankments for rice-fields 
 spread over a large part of the lower ground ; a few only 
 of these fields being now cultivated, their aspect seemed
 
 CHAP. xii. PRINCE RAMONJA'S VILLAGE. 361 
 
 to indicate that the population had, in former times, been 
 much larger than at present. Our road led us toward a 
 large inclosure formed by walls nine or ten feet high, the 
 roof-shaped top of the wall being armed with pointed 
 spikes firmly cemented in the sun-hardened clay of which 
 the wall was composed, and placed within a few inches of 
 each other around the whole inclosure. As the gates to 
 this inclosure were open we passed through, and in the 
 centre passed by a large and well-built house of wood, with 
 floors, and several apartments ; while within the same in- 
 closure I noticed a number' of inferior structures. The 
 whole was in good preservation, and was altogether the 
 most feudal or aristocratic looking place we had met with. 
 
 Soon after leaving the inclosure we crossed the clear- 
 flowing river Valala, and wound our way through planta- 
 tions along a path formed on the side of steep banks, 
 through deep cuttings in clay, and by large blocks of gran- 
 ite, to one of the villages of Prince Kamonja, at the foot of 
 Angavo (literally, the lofty), a high massive mountain that 
 had been long in sight. This was the first fortified village 
 we had entered. The ditch was deep, the path across it to 
 the gateway narrow. The wall or fence on the upper side 
 of the ditch was terminated by large upright stones ; and 
 the gate itself, a large slab or stone which it would require 
 a number of men to move, stood against the wall just with- 
 in the gateway. I passed through the village to the house 
 of Ramonja, a well-built wooden edifice with a lofty nar- 
 row roof. 
 
 As soon as I had entered the house an aged woman, tall, 
 but shriveled and gray-headed, rose from her seat, and, 
 stooping as she moved, came toward me, bursting into the 
 most passionate expressions of joy, and exclaiming, "Efa 
 tonga ! efa tonga ! is come, is come !" then clasping my hand 
 between both her own, she continued, "O Kamonja, Ka- 
 monja! how happy you will be!" At length, when she
 
 362 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. xn. 
 
 had persuaded me to be seated, she squatted down on the 
 mat, and, gathering her laniba closely round her shoulders, 
 sat for some time, gazing steadfastly at me in silence. I 
 was informed that she had been Prince Eamonja's nurse, 
 was allowed to call him her child, and, knowing the pleas- 
 ure my arrival would afford him, had thus given vent to 
 her feelings. 
 
 I had not been long in the house before an aid-de-camp 
 from the capital arrived with a letter from the Prince Ra- 
 monja himself, expressing, in terms of much affection, the 
 pleasure which the news of my approach had afforded him, 
 and informing me that he had sent instructions that a bul- 
 lock and other provisions should be presented on our ar- 
 rival at Angavo. I had much pleasant conversation with 
 the officer who brought the letter, and who was, in personal 
 appearance, one of the finest men I had seen. 
 
 Between one and two o'clock my breakfast was brought. 
 Among the presents I had received on the previous day 
 were some fowls which had been fed in a manner peculiar 
 to Madagascar. The bird is confined in a hole, or a close 
 sort of basket, and fed with a paste made of rice flour (much 
 in the same way that turkeys are sometimes crammed), un- 
 til it becomes enormously fat. One of these birds had been 
 cooked for my breakfast, and was almost one mass of fat. 
 The layer of fat on the legs and some other parts was a full 
 inch in thickness. Fowls thus fed are said to fetch a high 
 price in the market, and to be esteemed by Malagasy epi- 
 cures as excellent eating. 
 
 In the course of the afternoon the prince's head man 
 here and most of his people came and requested to see me. 
 On going out I found my friends and the chiefs who had 
 traveled with me arranged along the front of the house, and 
 the head man of the village and his friends on the opposite 
 side. In the centre had been placed a dozen baskets of 
 rice, with several of manioc and sweet potatoes, and two
 
 CHAP. xn. PRESENT OF PROVISIONS. 363 
 
 large bundles of sugar-canes, besides poultry ; and a tame 
 bullock, which had been reposing in the yard all the morn- 
 ing, standing near them. I was about to take my place 
 among my fellow-travelera, but was directed to stand on the 
 stone step of the door. The chief man, who, with his com- 
 panions, was arrayed in holiday attire, then addressed me, 
 stating how much pleasure it gave them to see me there as 
 the friend of the prince and the prince Rakotond Radama, 
 and begged me to accept the bullock and the other provi- 
 sions before me as the prince's gift. I expressed my deep- 
 felt gratitude for this manifestation of kindness, and the peo- 
 ple retired. 
 
 When my bearers were directed to remove the provisions 
 there was a general scramble for the sugar-canes, and so 
 eager was the struggle that few secured more than a piece 
 of a cane. I afterward expressed my regret to one of my 
 friends that so muck provision should have been given, as 
 I was sure my men would have been better without it. 
 But he advised me not to say so, as it was the mode of 
 testifying pleasure on the arrival of a guest in Madagascar, 
 and would be painful to the parties by whom it was given ; 
 also, that the people of the place would be pleased by my 
 receiving it, as they would obtain a portion when it was 
 distributed. I afterward wrote to the secretary of the gov- 
 ernment at the capital, to the prince royal, as the queen's 
 son is usually called, and to Prince Ramonja, informing 
 them of my progress and my arrival at Angavo. One of 
 my bearers came to-day to have a tooth drawn, of which I 
 soon relieved him, and he returned to his quarters. The 
 evening was passed with a select company of friends in 
 agreeable, and to me deeply-affecting conversation, respect- 
 ing the perils and afflictions of the times that were past, and 
 the rest and the quiet of the present. 
 
 Soon after seven the next morning we took leave of the 
 kind friends with whom I had held such pleasant inter-
 
 364 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. xn. 
 
 course, and wound our way up the fertile and lovely valley 
 of Angavo to the pass in the mountains forming its western 
 boundary. The first objects which attracted my attention 
 after leaving the village were ;a number of picturesque 
 tombs, of careful construction and considerable extent. I 
 was told they were the resting-places of Ramonja's ances- 
 tors. 
 
 The ascent upon which we had entered was long and 
 gradual until near the summit, but I walked nearly all the 
 way. At different elevations we passed a succession of ham- 
 lets, perched in the most picturesque spots, often on points 
 of high land, projecting out into the valley. The houses 
 were all well built, with clean swept court-yards around 
 them. At one which we passed, the first two-storied house 
 I had noticed since leaving Tamatave, a woman was look- 
 ing out of a chamber window ; at others the inmates of the 
 house seemed to be gathered together on a sort of parapet 
 in front of their dwellings, in order to see us pass. I fre- 
 quently halted to look back over the wide green and fertile 
 valley we had left. The cattle feeding on the sides of the 
 hills, the rustic villages scattered here and there along its 
 borders, or on the rocky promontories jutting out from the 
 mountain's side, the gardens and rice-fields mapped out be- 
 low, and the clear cool stream winding its way along the 
 centre, all combined to form an extended and beautiful scene, 
 probably the more charming because seen under a cloudless 
 sky, and tinged with the bright rays of the morning sun. 
 
 In little more than an hour we reached the pass near the 
 summit of Angavo, the natural fortress of the province of 
 Ankay. It is a lofty massive granite mountain, capped with 
 clay, and having steep inaccessible sides. The small portion 
 of level land on the summit is defended by a succession of 
 deep ditches, extending nearly round it, and continued, one 
 after another, from the summit to the edge of the precipi- 
 tous sides. Before the introduction of fire-arms, it must have
 
 CHAP. xii. ATHLETIC SPORTS. 365 
 
 been almost impregnable. It was defended by the last in- 
 dependent chief of the Bazanozano against Radama, who, it 
 is said, took it chiefly by the aid of fire-arms, after two days' 
 fighting. 
 
 The descent, on the western side of the pass, was woody 
 and broken. I had noticed a few rare plants on the eastern 
 side, especially some small lilac-flowered orchises, and the 
 small rich, bright-flowered Euphorbia Bojeri, resembling E. 
 splendens, but with smaller and deeper-colored scarlet flow- 
 ers. On the western side the vegetation was rich and new. 
 It is here that the finest species of ebony produced in the 
 island is found. I saw several new orchids, and obtained a 
 few fronds of some unknown forms. At length, after cross- 
 ing a somewhat rapid stream, completely overshadowed by 
 trees of luxuriant foliage, we reached the open country, char- 
 acterized by broad level tracts, laid out in rice-grotmds, much 
 of it under culture, and diversified by flat rounded hills. 
 
 We halted at a resting-place for travelers. These resting- 
 places, of which we passed many on our journey, are gener- 
 ally a grassy knoll, at a distance from any trees, affording a 
 wide and pleasing prospect, or a position for enjoying a cool 
 refreshing breeze. The multitudes of travelers who rest on 
 the grass tend to keep it short and smooth ; and quantities 
 of the fibre of the sugar-cane, chewed by the travelers dur- 
 ing their resting-time, are strewn all around. Close by this 
 place, a round stone, like a large cannon-ball, was lying on 
 the ground, and two small stones were fixed upright, at a 
 distance of some yards from each other. My bearers and 
 some others of the party instantly repaired to the spot where 
 this stone was lying, and those who were able took up the 
 large round stone, and, standing near one stone, endeavored 
 to hurl it to the opposite stone, as a feat of strength. After 
 a series of trials, only two one of my own bearers, and one 
 of a party traveling with us were able to cast it to the re- 
 quired distance, while some could scarcely lift it. When
 
 366 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. xu. 
 
 they had finished their sport, we resumed our journey, and, 
 about an hour before noon, reached Ankara Madinika. 
 
 This was the first village in Ankova, the central province 
 of the island. It was market-day, and a number of men 
 and women had goods, viz., rice and other kinds of grain, 
 roots, vegetables, poultry, raw cotton, pet birds in cages, etc., 
 spread out on the ground, or exposed in baskets, by the 
 side of the road, as we entered the village. I afterward 
 walked through the market, asking the price of some of the 
 articles, and purchased some ready-cooked sweet potatoes 
 and manioc, which were exceedingly good. The houses 
 here were more substantially built than those we had passed, 
 but dirty inside. The people were somewhat fairer than 
 those in the lower provinces. There did not seem to be 
 much traffic in the market, though a considerable number 
 of people had come together. 
 
 Food already cooked is generally offered for sale in the 
 Malagasy markets, but the only kinds of cooked food which 
 I saw were manioc and sweet potatoes, which were appar- 
 ently in considerable demand. There were neither fish, 
 nor eggs, nor locusts; the season was too early for the lat- 
 ter, which generally pass over the central provinces during 
 the spring of the year, and cause great destruction among 
 the fields and gardens. The locusts generally fly within 
 two or three feet of the ground, and as soon as their ap- 
 proach is perceived, the people rush out, and with great 
 clamor endeavor to strike them down, or inclose them in 
 their lambas, while the women and children gather them 
 up in baskets from the ground, and detach their legs and 
 wings, by shaking them from one end to the other of a long 
 sack, in the same way that grocers clean their raisins. The 
 legs and wings are then winnowed away, and the bodies 
 dried in the srnif or sometimes fried in fat, and then kept 
 in sacks for food, or sent to the markets for sale. In some 
 parts of Ankova and in the provinces of the Betsileo to the
 
 MAKKETS OF ANKOVA. 
 
 367 
 
 CATCHING LOCUSTS. 
 
 southward, grasshoppers and silk-worms, in the chrysalis 
 state, are collected in large quantities, cooked and eaten as 
 food, or offered for sale. 
 
 The market at this place was small, and only a few arti- 
 cles were exhibited ; but the markets in this province are, 
 many of them, especially those held near the capital, at- 
 tended by multitudes of people from the surrounding vil- 
 lages, and contain every kind of manufacture both native 
 and foreign, as well as all kinds of native produce and arti- 
 cles of food. At some, persons attend with large earthen 
 jars of water, which they sell in small quantities to parties 
 who may be thirsty while in the market ; while others cook 
 and dispose of meat ready dressed to those who may be 
 hungry. Others, as in the market here, dispose of cooked
 
 368 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. xn. 
 
 manioc and potatoes. There was part of a bullock, cut up 
 in small pieces, for sale in one part of the market at this 
 place. The samples of rice looked exceedingly good. 
 
 Having rested a couple of hours, we journeyed on, and 
 traveled through a country of low hills and wide valleys, 
 comparatively well cultivated, and thickly peopled. The 
 parts of the country not under cultivation were covered 
 with thick grass. Immense blocks of granite, or gneiss, 
 rose up in different directions above the surface of the 
 ground, and the sides and summits of the mountains often 
 exhibited a large extent of naked granite rock. As we ad- 
 vanced the houses seemed to improve. If not larger than 
 those to the eastward, they were better built. The walls 
 -were of mud or clay, with doors and window-shutters of 
 wood, and the roofs covered with a neat, thick thatching of 
 grass. They were surrounded by fences, and sometimes 
 shaded by trees, with inclosed gardens or fields outside, 
 planted with different kinds of produce. This, together 
 with the cattle feeding on the plain, often gave to the whole, 
 as seen from a distance, the appearance of an English 
 farm. 
 
 After crossing six or seven swampy streams, where the 
 men seemed much afraid of crocodiles or serpents, we ap- 
 proached the place at which we were to sleep. It was an 
 ancient fortified village, standing on the summit of a hill, 
 with a deep ditch or fosse outside, the entrance being by a 
 narrow stone gateway, and the space within crowded with 
 houses. These were so irregularly placed, and so crowded 
 together, that my palanquin could scarcely be carried along 
 the passages between the houses to the place where I was 
 to lodge. Here I was most affectionately welcomed by a 
 number of friends, with some of whom I had had much 
 pleasant intercourse on a former occasion at Tamatave. 
 My meeting and intercourse with friends, at this place, was 
 deeply affecting ; and the accounts I received of the severe
 
 UUAP. XII. 
 
 MODE OF FATTENING CATTLE. 
 
 369 
 
 afflictions of some, and the perils of others, almost deprived 
 me of sleep. 
 
 We were stirring early, and in looking over the village 
 nothing struck me as more surprising than the narrow and 
 intricate passages between the houses, and from one part to 
 another. Here I saw for the first time two pits called 
 fahitra, in which oxen are confined and fattened. The 
 
 pits, which were close to the houses, were somewhat larger 
 than the animal, and a little deeper than the top of his 
 horns. Over one of these a covering of thatch was placed ; 
 and the food of the animals, fresh wet grass, was placed 
 upon a ledge cut out of the clay sides of the pit, in a rude 
 sort of rack. 
 
 Very early in my journey I found that if I lefo my clothes 
 by my bedside at night, they^Vere in danger of being de- 
 voured by the rats aud mice before morning. Cats and 
 owls being considered animals of ill-omen, are not allowed 
 near any house ; so the rats and mice are left undisturbed, 
 
 AA
 
 370 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. xn. 
 
 and have it all their own way. I had, therefore, been un- 
 der the necessity of putting all my clothes, including cap 
 and great-coat, into a bag, and hanging them up by a cord 
 to one of the rafters of the house. But one night, when in 
 consequence of indisposition I had spread my great-coat 
 over me for an additional blanket, I found in the morning 
 that it had been eaten in several places. Even the silk 
 handkerchief spread over my head had suffered considera- 
 bly during the night ; but this morning I found to my great 
 distress that several parts of a manuscript vocabulary which 
 I kept at the head of my palanquin, had been eaten by the 
 rats. For the future, therefore, I never ventured to leave 
 any book exposed by night. 
 
 We left the village about seven o'clock, passing out by 
 the narrow gateway between two high unhewn granite 
 stones, and proceeding by a narrow path over the ditch, 
 which was about eighteen feet deep and four or six feet 
 wide. A number of peach-trees growing within the inclos- 
 ure were just coming into bloom, and appeared to thrive 
 well. A little euphorbia hedge, growing along the top of 
 the fence inside the ditch, was covered with the richest 
 deep-colored scarlet flowers. The grass of large tracts of 
 country over which we had passed had been recently burn- 
 ed for the sake of securing fresh young grass for the cattle, 
 and long lines of fire were occasionally seen traversing the 
 plain or the mountain side, leaving nothing but a black 
 smoky or ashy surface behind it. 
 
 I was much impressed with the difference between the 
 Hovas and the inhabitants of the country through which I 
 had passed, as manifest in the position and defenses of their 
 villages, indicating that they must have been a marauding 
 sort of people, ever liable to reprisals from other tribes, or 
 else constantly engaged in war among themselves. Their 
 villages are all built on the summits of hills, inclosed in clay 
 walls of varied height and thickness, and having but one
 
 CHAP. xii. FORTIFICATION OF HOVA VILLAGES. 371 
 
 narrow and difficult entrance, being, besides this, surround- 
 ed by one or more deep ditches. These ditches around the 
 villages were sometimes extended to a considerable distance 
 from the walls inclosing their houses, and beyond these 
 there were deep cuttings across any rising ground leading 
 to the village. Great skill was manifested in the plan of 
 these defenses, as well as great labor in their completion. 
 In no other country, perhaps, have the villages been so uni- 
 formly defended by this species of fortification as in this 
 part of Madagascar. In this respect their defenses appear- 
 ed more elaborate and permanent than those I had noticed 
 around the Pas of New Zealand or the mountain fortresses 
 of the South Sea Islands ; the former, though generally fix- 
 ed in positions affording greater natural security, were only 
 defended by a strong stockade, the latter by thick stone 
 walls. The extensive introduction of fire-arms, and also of 
 cannon, within the last forty years, has rendered these for- 
 tifications useless, and they are consequently neglected ; but 
 so long as the only weapons of attack were the pointed 
 stick or the long, sharp, iron-headed spear, they must have 
 afforded considerable security. Their chief weapons of de- 
 fense at that time were stones or fragments of rock, which 
 were hurled at the assailants or rolled down upon them 
 while in the fosse ; and against the latter the hard- wooded 
 and hide-bound shields of the attacking party afforded no 
 protection. In closer conflict both parties used the spear, 
 which is the national weapon of the Malagasy. 
 
 The morning was bright, the air cool, and the breeze re- 
 freshing ; and after traveling over a fine open country cov- 
 ered with thick grass, we approached Ambatomanga, a con- 
 spicuous and romantic-looking village. It was in full view 
 some time before we reached its walls. It stood upon the 
 summit of a low round hill, one side of which was formed 
 of precipitous rock rising from the level of the valley to a 
 height of about four hundred feet. On one side a consid-
 
 372 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR CHAP. xn. 
 
 erable stream flowed round the base of the hill, and fur- 
 nished water for extensive plantations of rice spread far 
 over the bottom of the valley and in terraces along the low- 
 er sides of the hills. The slope of the hill and part of the 
 adjacent land were inclosed and planted with/a few trees 
 and vegetables. The road, crossing a bridge of stone slabs, 
 led up to a narrow path over the fosse to the opening in the 
 walls by which the village was surrounded, and which were 
 in good preservation. The interior was not so crowded 
 with houses as many of the villages in the country, and I 
 noticed clusters of trees in several places, as if small or- 
 chards were attached to some of the dwellings. The houses 
 were all built after the Hova style, with high narrow roofs, 
 the rafters at each end projecting several feet beyond their 
 junction at the apex of the roof, like a couple of branches 
 or a pair of straight horns. 
 
 In the centre of these houses was that of the chief, which, 
 from being the first of the kind I had seen, appeared all the 
 more remarkable. It might be about sixty feet long, and 
 half as wide. It was two stories high, with door and win- 
 dows in each story, and a steep roof with attic windows in 
 the sides and the ends. The side walls were sheltered by 
 two verandas, one above the other, and the posts which 
 supported the two verandas were upward of twenty feet 
 high. This remarkable building, with walls of wood framed 
 in diagonal panels, roofed with shingles, spacious, more than 
 double the height of any of the other houses, and European 
 and attractive in its form, was standing upon the highest 
 spot in the village, surrounded by a wall, and imparting al- 
 together a peculiar character to the whole place. 
 
 To the north of the village, and connected with it by 
 a narrow path, and apparently inclosed within the same 
 walls, there was an immense pile of naked granite rock, 
 extending upward of two hundred feet high, and as many 
 broad. A solitary house, with thick stone walls and thatch-
 
 CHAP. xii. AMBATOMANGA. 373 
 
 ed roof, crowned its summit. A tall bamboo cane, with a 
 piece of cloth fluttering in the breeze, and one or two stunt- 
 ed shrubs growing on one side near the edge, were the only 
 other objects I could see. The name of the village, Amba- 
 tomanga, literally blue rock, was evidently derived from this 
 pile of blue granite. And the rock, the chief's house, the 
 walled village, the pass, the winding stream, the green, un- 
 dulating plain, the roads enlivened by the passing travel- 
 ers, the massive, and often naked granite mountains in the 
 distance, seen under a bright blue sky, combined to present 
 a picture as novel as it was varied and beautiful. I could 
 not help again wishing that my photographic apparatus 
 had been accessible, in order that I might have rendered 
 the picture permanent. 
 
 Friends from the capital met us as we approached, and, 
 after cordial greetings, we entered this feudal-looking vil- 
 lage, passing along narrow intricate passages until we halt- 
 ed at the house in which I was to lodge, and which belong- 
 ed to the resident head man of the place, the chief to whom 
 the large house belonged being absent at the capital. The 
 house to which I had been conducted was large and well 
 built. Part of the floor was covered with matting. A 
 neatly-framed four-post bedstead, on which mats were 
 spread, with a native-made chair by its side, occupied one 
 corner ; another sleeping-place of an inferior kind occupied 
 the opposite end of the house; while large water-jars and 
 other useful articles filled up the intervening space. There 
 was a raised hearth near the centre ; and among the furni- 
 ture and ornaments, some of which were curious, I observed 
 u large drum, apparently of native manufacture, the barrel 
 being formed out of a solid piece of wood, hanging from a 
 peg near the top of the wall. The chief himself soon en- 
 tered and gave me a cordial welcome, while crowds of the 
 villagers gathered round the house to gaze at the stranger. 
 
 One of my bearers, who had previously complained, was
 
 
 374 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. xn. 
 
 so ill during the previous night as to be unable to travel 
 with us in the morning : but with the help of companions, 
 who had carried him part of the way, he arrived soon after 
 noon. He was lodged in an adjacent house ; and, as soon 
 as I was aware of his illness, I went and found him suffer- 
 ing severely. I gave him some medicine and expressed 
 my regret that he or his companions had not informed me 
 before, as the fever, from which he was then suffering so 
 much, might probably have been prevented. 
 
 During the afternoon several friends from the capital ar- 
 rived with a present of poultry, etc., and a letter from 
 friends there conveying a warm and affectionate assurance 
 of welcome and earnest desire that we might soon greet 
 each other. The messengers themselves seemed to find 
 much satisfaction in unitedly welcoming the stranger sent 
 by their friends in England to visit them. Twenty years 
 had passed away since the English who had formerly resid- 
 ed among them left the country ; but my arrival, they said, 
 was evidence that the Malagasy were not forgotten by their 
 early and steady friends. I expressed my deep sense of 
 their kindness, and observed to one of my companions that 
 I would rather decline the present, as my people had more 
 than enough already; but they said, "Don't refuse this 
 present : it will grieve them much if you do." I therefore 
 cheerfully accepted what they had brought, and, when I 
 had written a short letter of grateful acknowledgment to 
 the friends by whom they were sent, they returned. 
 
 The next day was Sunday, and I was'glad to make it a 
 day of rest. In the morning a message arrived from an 
 officer at the capital, who had when a youth been educated 
 in England. He expressed his pleasure at my approach, 
 and his hopes of hearing from friends in England, " that 
 happy land," as he designated it ; and at the same time of- 
 fering some friendly suggestions. I sent a short reply by 
 his messenger. In the course of the day a messenger ar-
 
 CHAP. xn. FKIENDS FKOM THE CAPITAL. 375 
 
 rived from the prince, conveying a most cordial welcome, 
 and the expression of his pleasure at hearing of my near 
 approach. 
 
 During the afternoon I walked out for a couple of miles 
 or more along the road to the westward of the village. The 
 wind was blowing fresh from the northwest, and though I 
 wore a thick great-coat, and walked briskly, I felt the cold 
 far more keenly than I had expected. After my return, 
 other friends arrived from the capital to bid me welcome, and 
 with them I had much interesting conversation and enjoy- 
 ment of this day's rest. In the evening the resident chief 
 of the village presented me with a sheep and some poultry, 
 etc., in the name and by the order of the proprietor of the 
 place, now residing at Tananarive, and whom he designated 
 as the friend of the queen. 
 
 August 25th. I had passed a restless night, partly from 
 a slight fever and partly from a multitude of thoughts. 
 The sheep which had been presented on the previous day 
 was now killed ; and, as my eyes were exceedingly painful, 
 and the weather unfavorable, we did not proceed until after 
 breakfast. My bearer was still suffering, but hoped by the 
 help of his companions to follow us to the next resting- 
 place. Before setting out, a messenger arrived from one of 
 the officers of the government to say that I was to proceed 
 to a village which was named, at the foot of the hill on which 
 the capital stands, when an officer would be sent to conduct 
 me to the house appointed for my residence. About ten 
 o'clock we set out, traversing the labyrinth of paths between 
 the houses of the village ; and, passing .through an opening 
 in the walls, crossed over three or four deep ditches, and 
 then continued our way along smooth, well-beaten paths, 
 and over an undulating plain covered with long thick grass. 
 The officer who had arrived accompanied me in his palan- 
 quin. The morning was cold, with drizzling rain, when we 
 started ; but the weather improved as we advanced. The
 
 376 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP xn. 
 
 aspect of the country was sterile. No trees or bushes were 
 visible except a few around the houses ; but large portions 
 of the land were under cultivation. The absence of trees in 
 Imerina makes fuel very scarce, and I saw several persons 
 employed in cutting long dry grass, and tying it up in bun- 
 dles : these are daily sold in the markets of the capital for 
 fuel. I saw only a few cattle, but occasionally noticed small 
 flocks of sheep of a reddish brown color, and covered with 
 hair. 
 
 We passed during our journey to-day several tombs of 
 the Hovas. They consist generally of a square raised plat- 
 form, having their sides formed by stones fixed in the 
 ground ; with sometimes a succession of smaller platforms 
 one upon another, giving a sort of pyramidal form to the 
 tomb ; or else there are two or three large upright stones 
 standing erect within the first stone inclosure. These tomb.^ 
 generally occupy small elevations at a short distance from 
 the road. Some of them seemed to be ancient, and may 
 justly be reckoned among the most remarkable and impress- 
 ive antiquities of the country. 
 
 There were many travelers on the road, and one native 
 chief passed us on horseback, riding an excellent animal. 
 Between three and four o'clock in the afternoon we reached 
 the small village of Amboipo, where a messenger from the 
 queen's secretary gave me a letter, requesting me to halt at 
 that village for the night, as the queen had appointed the 
 following day for my entering the capital, and that three 
 officers would be- sent to conduct me to my residence. 
 
 On entering the house in which I was to spend the night 
 I found myself in a true Malagasy peasant's cottage. The 
 inside, not above twenty feet square, was divided by a rush 
 partition into two compartments or rooms. The first, into 
 which the door opened, was appropriated to a pen for calves 
 and a pen for lambs, in which one was bleating for a long 
 time, and also a pen for ducks and chickens. The inner
 
 CHAP. xii. NATIVE SILK- WEAVING. 377 
 
 apartment was working-room, cooking-room, eating-room, 
 sitting-room, and sleeping-room. In this inner apartment, 
 when we entered, the husband was watching a large pot of 
 rice boiling on the fire, and the wife was seated on a mat 
 on the floor before a fragile rustic loom, weaving a fine silk 
 lamba, or scarf, such as are worn by the Hova chiefs on hol- 
 idays or public occasions. The loom was of most simple 
 materials and primitive construction. Four stakes of une- 
 qual length, fixed upright in the ground, with rods across, 
 composed the frame-work of the loom. 
 
 In front of this the woman sat on the ground. At the 
 distance of six or seven feet were two short sticks driven 
 into the ground, with a rod stretching across, and over this 
 the woof of silk to be woven was fastened. It is with ap- 
 paratus so simple and fragile that the beautiful lambas of 
 the Hovas, with their rich colors and elegantly-figured pat- 
 terns, are woven. Silk- worms are numerous in some of the 
 provinces, and silk might be produced in great abundance. 
 
 Although on entering I requested that the woman would 
 not disturb herself, she soon untied the different parts of 
 the loom, rolled up the silk, placed it in a rush basket 
 standing by her side, pulled up the stakes, and, in less than 
 five minutes, no sign of the work in which she had been 
 engaged was to be seen. The bedstead, I found, was a fix- 
 ture, the posts being driven into the ground. The fire-place- 
 was near the foot of the bed, and a small window at the end. 
 
 In the course of the evening upward of twenty friends 
 came down from the capital to express their thankfulness 
 and joy at my arrival. Some of them were remarkable- 
 looking men, whose presence would have commanded re- 
 spect in any intelligent assembly, and whose past history of 
 peril and deliverance was among the most remarkable and 
 deeply-interesting of any I had ever listened to. They quite 
 filled my little room. Ejaculations of grateful joy at our 
 meeting were all that for some time could be uttered, and
 
 378 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. xn. 
 
 these were mingled with tears. Many earnest and affec- 
 tionate inquiries after friends who had formerly resided in 
 the country were made. Many deeply-affecting accounts 
 of events, and changes, and deaths among themselves were 
 related ; and long, indeed, it was before we separated. How 
 much more interesting and permanently affecting has the 
 history of a number of these men since become !
 
 CHAP. xin. ARRIVAL OF THE QUEEN'S OFFICERS. 379 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 Arrival of the Queen's Officers. Entry to the Capital. Extent and Ap- 
 pearance of Antananarivo. Palace and chief Buildings. Intricacy of the 
 Roads. Description of the House and Accommodation provided by the 
 Queen. Welcome on arriving. Salubrity of the Climate. Munificent 
 Present from the Queen. Visit from the Prince Royal. His Person and 
 Dress. His Estimate of the English. The Meaning of Protection. In- 
 ducements offered to him to become a Roman Catholic. Prince Ramonja. 
 Message from the Queen. Satisfaction of the Court with the Friendship 
 of England. Affecting Interview with the Family of a former Friend. 
 Presents from the Prince and Princess, and the chief Nobles. Excursion 
 with the Prince. Native-built stone Bridges. The silver Spear. Pal- 
 ace of Isoaierana. Places of Execution. Excursion with the Prince and 
 Princess. Procession and Music. Princess's Figure, Dress, and Palan- 
 quin. Culture of the Vine. Simple and primitive Homage of the Vil- 
 lagers to their Rulers. Inquiries of the Princess respecting the Royal 
 Family of England. Music. English National Anthem. Dancing. 
 Military Encampments. Request of a Slave. 
 
 I HAD passed a restless night, feeling far from well, and not 
 expecting to be summoned to the capital at an early hour, 
 had told my attendant to prepare breakfast by nine o'clock. 
 Soon after eight, however, on the morning of the 26th of 
 August, 1856, Izaro came into my room to announce that 
 three officers on horseback had arrived to conduct me to 
 the capital. I sent him back to ask them to wait a short 
 time ; a request with which they politely complied, begging 
 me, at the same time, not to put myself to any inconven- 
 ience. They also sent a message to the effect that they 
 had orders to conduct me to the house appointed for my 
 residence, where I was to rest myself, and the queen would 
 let me know when she would see me. 
 
 To enable me to face the keen sharp morning air, I put
 
 380 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAI-. xin. 
 
 on extra woolen clothing; and, as soon as I was dressed, 
 the officers were invited to come in. Three intelligent- 
 looking young men, dressed in European style, entered, 
 and addressing me in tolerable English, said they had been 
 sent by the queen to bid me welcome to Madagascar, and 
 to conduct me into the capital. I thanked them, and told 
 them I was glad to hear them speak English so well. They 
 said they knew a little, but very much wished to learn 
 more. 
 
 Leaving the house, these officers conducted me down the 
 steep hill on which it was situated ; and, on reaching the 
 level ground below, I found two palanquins, each resem- 
 bling an arm-chair with poles attached to the sides. A 
 purple cloak, lined with velvet, was hung over the back of 
 one which had been sent by the prince ; the other had been 
 sent by a friend. The officers directed me to the former ; 
 and, as soon as I was seated, they mounted their horses, and, 
 accompanied by their own attendants, led the way. My 
 own empty palanquin and packages following in the rear 
 made quite a long procession. Among the companions of 
 my journey was an officer attended by a slave carrying, 
 in a neatly-made wicker cage, a pair of perfectly white 
 guinea-fowls as a great rarity, and a present from the chief 
 of a distant province to the prince. 
 
 The morning was fine, and we had several good views of 
 the " city of a thousand towns," for such is the import of 
 the name of the capital of Madagascar, as we approached 
 from the east. Antananarivo stands on a long oval-shaped 
 hill, a mile and a half or more in length, rising four or five 
 hundred feet higher than the surrounding country, and be- 
 ing seven thousand feet above the level of the sea. Near 
 the centre, and on the highest part of the hill, or, as the 
 natives express it, on the tampombohitra (crown of the 
 town), stands the palace, the largest and loftiest building in 
 the place. It is about sixty feet high ; the walls are sur-
 
 CHAT. xiir. APPEAEANCE OF THE CAPITAL. 381 
 
 rounded by double verandas one above the other ; the roof 
 is lofty and steep, with attic windows at three different ele- 
 vations. On the centre of the top of the house there is a 
 large gilt figure of an eagle with outspread wings. Adjoin- 
 ing the northeast angle of the queen's house is the residence 
 of the prince royal, her son. It is smaller than that of the 
 queen, but in other respects resembling it, and also sur- 
 mounted by a golden eagle. 
 
 Stretching along to the north and the south of these roy- 
 al residences, and forming with them a line along the crest 
 of the hill, are the dwellings of other members of the 
 queen's family and the chief officers of the government, 
 built after the same form as that of the sovereign, and con- 
 spicuous above all other buildings in the capital. Below 
 these are the houses of the other inhabitants, constructed 
 almost entirely of wood, with lofty narrow roofs thatched 
 with rushes or grass, and ornamented at the ends with the 
 long rafters projecting above the gables. The houses along 
 the side of the hill are built on artificially leveled terraces, 
 from twenty to forty feet wide. The sides of the upper 
 part of the hill, especially the northern part, are covered 
 with houses ; but the nature of the ground has prevented 
 any order or regularity in their arrangement. They are 
 each often surrounded by a low mud or stone wall, forming 
 a sort of court-yard to the houses within the inclosure. 
 The lower part of the hill is composed of naked broken 
 rocks of granite mingled with clay, and appears in strik- 
 ing contrast with the green grass or rice-fields and water- 
 courses of the valley below. The uniform shape of the 
 houses, the plain uncolored wood of their walls, and the 
 dark brown thatch gave a somewhat sombre aspect to the 
 whole capital, which might easily have been prevented by 
 coloring the walls with pink or yellow, as had been done 
 with good effect in some of the houses of the adjacent 
 country. A few trees, apparently a species of fig-tree, were
 
 382 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CUAP. xm. 
 
 visible here and there in the higher parts of the city ; and, 
 though pale and yellow from the effects of the sun or the 
 dust, served to relieve, in a slight degree, the sameness 
 which prevailed. But, notwithstanding this drawback, it 
 was not possible to gaze on the city before me, the scene 
 of so many heart-stirring and soul-moving events, without 
 deep feeling, more especially when, just before crossing a 
 small stream at the bottom of the hill, we passed near a 
 large pile of granite, which I was told was a place of exe- 
 cution. 
 
 About ten o'clock we reached the first houses, and still 
 continued to ascend by a wide but rugged and uneven 
 road, often for some distance over the naked rock, until we 
 reached an open stone gateway near one of the palaces, out- 
 side of which there appeared to be a guard of about a doz- 
 en soldiers, who presented arms to the officers as we pass- 
 ed. We continued ascending until we reached the crest of 
 .the hill, and then descended toward the west. I noticed 
 numbers of the natives standing within the inclosures on 
 each side of the road, and gazing with apparent pleasure as 
 we passed. The way now became exceedingly intricate ; 
 and, after proceeding for some distance over a path along 
 the top of a wall built up from below from a depth of 
 twelve or fourteen feet, we at length entered a spacious 
 court-yard, inclosing three neat well-built houses each two 
 stories high. 
 
 On reaching the most northern dwelling my palanquin 
 was set down. The officers, who had left their horses on 
 reaching the most intricate part of the way, came to me, 
 and one of them, taking me by the hand and leading me 
 into the building, told me that was the house the queen 
 had appointed for my residence, and then very cordially 
 bade me welcome. The lower story of the house contained 
 two rooms. The room into which I was ushered was large 
 and high, about fourteen feet from the floor to the ceiling ;
 
 CHAP. xm. RESIDENCE PROVIDED BY THE QUEEN. 388 
 
 the floor and the walls were neatly covered with matting. 
 The inner room was somewhat smaller, the floor and walls 
 being also covered with clean matting. At the western 
 end was a window, screened by a white muslin curtain or 
 blind. At the opposite end of the room a neat four-post 
 bed stood, on which mats were spread, and which was en- 
 circled with white muslin curtains. On one side of the 
 room was a table covered with a cloth, upon which were 
 arranged tumblers, wine-glasses, and a neat water-jug, and 
 above these hung a looking-glass. An arm-chair stood in 
 front of the table, and four other chairs were placed in dif- 
 ferent parts of the room. 
 
 Such was the inviting and welcome accommodation pro- 
 vided for my personal comfort during the period of my visit. 
 The upper story of my residence was for the use of my at- 
 tendants, with a separate house in the court-yard for a kitch- 
 en. The next house was for my packages, and the third 
 house was occupied by a native Hova family ; but I was 
 afterward informed that, if I required it, that also should be 
 at my service. Having seen me installed in my new domi- 
 cile, the officers retired, stating that they were going to in- 
 form, the queen of my arrival. I assured them of my deep 
 sense of their courtesy and attention, and begged them to 
 thank the queen for her kindness in sending them, and for 
 the accommodation so kindly provided for me. 
 
 As I sat in my nice, clean, comfortable-looking room, 
 feelings of gratitude to the Almighty almost overwhelmed 
 me, when I looked back upon the difficulties that had op- 
 posed my progress the merciful manner in which my health 
 had been preserved through the fever districts, and I had 
 been brought without accident, and with much enjoyment, 
 to the end of my journey. During the afternoon, many 
 persons gathered in the court-yard, and I had a succession 
 of visitors in the house. Friends seemed as if they could 
 not keep away, and came with anxious and yet joyous
 
 384 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. xm. 
 
 look, just to offer a brief, though fervent welcome, and then 
 depart. 
 
 In the evening three visitors came, with whom I had an 
 earnest, interesting, and to me, instructive conversation ; in 
 the course of which I gathered much important information. 
 Respecting the prince royal, I learned that he is esteemed by 
 all classes, even by those who may be politically opposed to 
 him, as intelligent, straightforward, and sincere; that the 
 people in general are fond of him on account of his frank 
 and humane disposition ; that the queen is greatly attached 
 to him, and has publicly declared that he is to succeed her 
 as sovereign, and that if his life be spared no doubt is en- 
 tertained of his succeeding to the throne. I learned, also, 
 that the people had of late been much excited and unsettled 
 by reports of an intended invasion of the French. After 
 these friends left me, others who had been waiting entered, 
 with whom I spent some time very pleasantly ; but, per- 
 ceiving that I was fatigued, they did not remain long. 
 
 On the following morning, I was much struck with the 
 difference between the climate of the lower parts of the 
 country and this, which was really delightful. The morn- 
 ings and evenings were here agreeably cool, the thermome- 
 ter on this occasion standing at 56 at eight in the morning. 
 About noon four officers of the palace came to my house. 
 They were dressed in /lark-colored silk larnbas, with rich- 
 patterned borders. On entering, they said they had been 
 sent by the queen to visit me on my arrival at the capital. 
 I thanked them, and asked after the health of the queen 
 and her relatives. They answered that her majesty was 
 well, and had sent them to inquire how I was after my long 
 journey whether I was fatigued or ill. They then inquired 
 about Queen Victoria, the Prince Consort, and the royal 
 family, and whether England was prosperous, and there was 
 peace in Europe. Soon after I had answered these ques- 
 tions, they said the queen had sent me a present of an ox,
 
 CHAP. xm. VISIT FROM THE PRINCE ROYAL. 385 
 
 and poultry, and other provisions. I said the queen was 
 very bountiful, and was, indeed, receiving me as a friend. 
 When they rose and went out I followed them into the 
 court-yard, where a slave was holding a fine fat ox by a 
 rope fastened to his horns. There was also a number of 
 turkeys, geese, ducks, and large fatted fowls ; a huge basket 
 of eggs, containing many dozens, and several large baskets 
 of rice. These were all spread out upon the ground before 
 my door, the ox standing at one end. Pointing to them, 
 the officers said they were sent to me by the queen. I again 
 expressed my thanks, and they soon afterward retired. 
 
 The people with me soon cleared away the presents. 
 The basket of eggs was taken into the upper part of my 
 own house, but what became of the rest I never knew. I 
 told the chief who, at the request of the prince, had taken 
 up his abode in the upper part of the house which contain- 
 ed my packages to distribute them as was proper and cus- 
 tomary on such occasions. In the course of the morning I 
 had relieved him from a tormenting tooth the second time 
 that my strength and skill in tooth-extracting had already 
 been in requisition here. 
 
 In the course of the day I had received information that 
 the prince royal would favor me with a visit ; and in the 
 evening, punctually at the time fixed, he came, accompa- 
 nied by a friend. Considering his age, then twenty-six, his 
 appearance struck me as juvenile but extremely prepossess- 
 ing, frank and open in his bearing, and easy in his man- 
 ners. He is short in stature, but well proportioned, with 
 broad shoulders and ample chest. His head is small, his 
 hair jet black and somewhat curling ; his forehead slightly 
 retreating and round ; his eyes small, but clear and pene- 
 trating ; his features somewhat European in cast and form ; 
 his lips full, the upper covered with a mustache, the lower 
 projecting from the overcrowding of his teeth ; his nose 
 aquiline, and his chin slightly projecting. He wore a black 
 
 BB '
 
 386 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. XHI. 
 
 dress-coat and pantaloons, gold-embroidered velvet waist- 
 coat, and white cravat. 
 
 Without formality or reserve, the prince evinced no 
 want of self-respect. He very cordially welcomed me to 
 the country, and in a short time we all seemed to be per- 
 fectly at ease. He asked after my home and family ; and 
 was much pleased with a picture of my house, and with 
 portraits of some members of my family, which he said the 
 princess, his wife, would like to see. I told him I had a 
 small present which my wife herself had worked, and which 
 I had thought of offering to the queen or some member of 
 her family. He said the princess, his wife, would, he was 
 sure, be much pleased with it. He spoke freely of the ac- 
 counts he had heard of England, and of his esteem for the 
 English ; of his high estimate of the conduct of the English 
 on several occasions which had been reported to him; of 
 the character of their laws, especially in relation to human 
 life, which he said they appeared to regard as a most sacred 
 thing, not to be carelessly nor recklessly destroyed. He 
 spoke of the English having often interfered to protect the 
 weak and the injured, and to prevent wrong. 
 
 The prince also spoke of the Queen of England, of Prince 
 Albert, and the royal children; and asked about the results 
 of the war with Eussia, as well as the alliance and friend- 
 ship between England and France. I replied that since 
 the close of the war in the Crimea there had been peace 
 throughout Europe, and that the existing relations of amity 
 with France were agreeable to the people of England ; add- 
 ing that the English and French were such near neighbors, 
 and had so many commercial and other interests in com- 
 mon, that their alliance must secure the most important ad- 
 vantages to both countries ; while their sincere co-operation 
 for the prosperity of other nations could not fail to prove a 
 benefit to the whole world. In the course of our conversa- 
 tion the prince asked what was the meaning of protection, as
 
 CHAP. xni. CONVERSATION WITH THE PRINCE. 387 
 
 in the case of one nation being under the protection of an- 
 other nation. This kind of protection I endeavored to ex- 
 plain to him as well as I could as being a sort of modified 
 sovereignty, under which the protecting power, while leav- 
 ing the people of the protected state to be governed to a 
 certain extent by their own rulers or forms of government, 
 constituted itself the supreme authority, actually govern- 
 ing both rulers and people, to the exclusion of all other for- 
 eign influence. 
 
 The prince inquired with much earnestness whether I 
 knew if there was any truth in the reports of an intended 
 invasion of Madagascar by the French, of which he said 
 there were rumors at that time in the capital. I told him I 
 had seen something about such a thing in the public jour- 
 nals of Europe, but that they were in all probability only 
 reports, and without foundation ; as I did not think it likely 
 that the French government would send troops to fight 
 against them ; and that I was sure the English cherished 
 toward them only friendly feelings. I told him there were 
 many statements in the newspapers in Europe, which we 
 who were living there did not know whether to believe or 
 not, and for which in reality there was sometimes no real 
 foundation ; adducing as an instance that I had read in a 
 newspaper in England that he himself had become a Roman 
 Catholic, and that an agent from himself had actually been 
 in Rome negotiating for Roman Catholic priests to be sent 
 to his country. He declared there was no truth in any 
 such statement ; but added, that there was a Roman Catho- 
 lic priest at the capital who had tried to persuade him to 
 become a Roman Catholic, and had given to the princess, 
 his wife, a crucifix, and to himself a silver medal, stating to 
 them that if they wore these on their breasts, and put con- 
 fidence in the Virgin Mary, the princess would become a 
 mother. "But," he added, "it has not proved true: my 
 wife has no child." He then opened his vest, and showed
 
 388 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. xin. 
 
 me the silver medal suspended from ids neck by a silken 
 cord. On one side was the letter M, with the cross inter- 
 woven, and surrounded by stars ; on the other side was a 
 figure of the Virgin in relief standing with outstretched 
 arms, and around the figure were these words : " Marie ! 
 congue sans peche / priez pour nous, qui avons recours a vous" 
 At the bottom was the date 1830. The prince said he had 
 no wish to become a Roman Catholic ; but I could not help 
 reflecting that, had it so occurred that the princess, after 
 wearing the crucifix, had become a mother, this might have 
 been ascribed to the influence of the symbol, or the efficacy 
 of the Virgin's intercession ; and thus a very different effect 
 might have been produced on their own minds, and on 
 those of many of the people. 
 
 We conversed a long time on a number of subjects not 
 connected with religion, in some of which the prince was 
 deeply interested, and, becoming greatly excited, spoke with 
 a degree of earnestness and animation which, considering 
 the quietness of his manner during the early part of our 
 interview, I had scarcely expected. At length the prince, 
 accompanied by his friend, took his leave, assuring me of 
 the gratitude which he felt for my visit to his country, and 
 the extreme pleasure he had derived from our conversation. 
 
 Two companies of friends, who had been waiting in an 
 adjacent house while the prince was with me, came in soon 
 after he had left. They had many questions to ask, and 
 many messages of kind and cordial welcome to deliver from 
 multitudes of others who had not been able to come per- 
 sonally to my dwelling. They all expressed themselves 
 gratified by the cordial welcome I had received from the 
 queen, as evinced by the presents which had been sent to 
 me during the day. 
 
 On the following morning, one of my bearers having in- 
 formed me that they wished to return, I directed them to 
 come to me all together; and then, reading over their names,
 
 CHAP. xm. INTERVIEW WITH PRINCE RAMONJA. 389 
 
 I paid each man the stipulated amount, expressing my grat- 
 itude for the attention and care they had manifested during 
 the journey. They were quite delighted with the sum they 
 received, and said if, when I wanted to return, I would send 
 them word, they would come up from Tamatave, to carry 
 me down to the coast. I thanked them for the offer of their 
 services, and asked them what they were going to do with 
 their money. Most of them said they were going to buy 
 something to take home ; and as specimens of the purchases 
 they made, no fewer than three parties came during the 
 day with gold earrings of native manufacture, to ask me if 
 they were really gold. 
 
 After dismissing the bearers of my palanquin and per- 
 sonal baggage, I paid the bqarers of my packages, each ac- 
 cording to the distance he had come, and they all appeared 
 well satisfied with the sum they received. I also presented 
 a small sum to the officers, as an expression of my sense of 
 their attention during the journey. The packages had not 
 yet all arrived, but were daily expected. 
 
 As much of this day as I could command, I devoted to 
 writing letters for England and Mauritius, to send by my 
 bearers to Tamatave, and also to packing the few ferns and 
 plants which I had collected on my journey. In the even- 
 ing I had a very pleasant visit from the prince Ramonja and 
 one of his relatives. After the first greeting, he almost invol- 
 untarily acknowledged the goodness of God in causing us to 
 meet -together. He then conversed with much earnestness 
 but gentleness of manner, making many inquiries after the 
 English who had formerly resided at the capital, and the 
 many friends in England of whom he had heard. He spoke 
 also of the afflictions he had suffered, and his bereavements 
 in the loss of his children by death. He inquired much 
 about the state of things in England, and expressed his 
 hopes for the prosperity of Madagascar. I was much im- 
 pressed with his intelligence and amiable feeling. During
 
 390 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. xra. 
 
 my former visits I had heard of his impaired sight, and had 
 now the pleasure of presenting him with an excellent pair 
 of gold spectacles, which a friend in London had confided 
 to my care for his acceptance. He expressed himself much 
 gratified by this token of remembrance, and said he would 
 write to the donor. The next morning early, the chief 
 whom I had met at Tamatave came with his wife and a 
 little boy, their son, to pay me a visit ; bringing the accept- 
 able present of a bottle of fresh milk, which they afterward 
 sent every morning as long as I remained at the capital. 
 
 In the afternoon of the same day, a number of high offi- 
 cers from the palace were announced. I sent to bid them 
 welcome, and immediately nine officers were introduced by 
 the queen's secretary. One of their number, having been 
 educated in England, spoke the English language well. 
 Two or three were of the thirteenth honor, the rest of some- 
 what lower rank. They were dressed in uniform trowsers 
 of blue cloth with gold-lace up the sides, and wore over 
 their shoulders the brown and purple silk lamba or scarf, 
 with yellow borders. Some wore heavy gold chains round 
 their necks, and large bracelets of the same material. One 
 of them wore a short yellow coat with slashed sleeves. 
 After inquiries respecting my health, accommodation, etc., 
 they said they had been sent by the queen to inquire the 
 object for which I had come to the capital. I replied that 
 my visit was what I had stated it to be in my letter to the 
 government when I asked permission to visit the capital, 
 viz., a visit of friendship, not for purposes of commerce, but 
 of friendship only, to her majesty and the government ; to 
 talk about things for the good of the kingdom ; and that I 
 was the bearer of a message of friendship from England to 
 the government of Madagascar ; that as there had been re- 
 ports that the English were not friendly to the Malagasy, 
 and that English ships would come to attack their country, 
 the Eight Honorable the Earl of Clarendon, the chief min-
 
 CHAP. xm. OFFICIAL VISIT FROM THE PALACE. 391 
 
 ister of Queen Victoria for foreign affairs, when he heard 
 that I was about to return to Madagascar, to visit the cap- 
 ital, had desired me to tell the queen and government of 
 Madagascar, that all reports of hostile intentions on the part 
 of the English were untrue ; that the English government 
 never had entertained such intentions, and had no such in- 
 tentions now ; that they desired the prosperity of Madagas- 
 car, and to be friendly with the queen and the government, 
 but had no claim or wish to interfere with the government 
 or internal affairs of the country. That, at the time of my 
 departure, the Earl of Clarendon had been sent by her maj- 
 esty, the Queen of England, to Paris, to assist, with the min- 
 isters of France and other countries, in arranging for the 
 peace of Europe after the war with Eussia ; but that he had 
 directed a letter to be written to me authorizing the state- 
 ments I had made. I then produced and read the letter on 
 the subject, which I had received a few days previous to 
 my departure from England. I also delivered a letter from 
 his Excellency the Governor of Mauritius for the queen, and 
 said I had some presents for her majesty, which I should 
 be happy to deliver as soon as the remainder of my packages 
 should arrive. The chiefs all expressed themselves greatly 
 pleased with the friendly, straightforward, and disinterested 
 statements of the letter which I had read ; and, after farther 
 conversation on different subjects, they rose to return. The 
 rustling of the stiff silk lambas, and the jingling of the large 
 loose gold bracelets on the wrists of some of the chiefs, as 
 they shook hands with me on leaving, produced a some- 
 what novel effect. 
 
 During my former visit to Tamatave, I had had much in- 
 timate, pleasant, and affectionate intercourse with an intel- 
 ligent chief, a native of the capital, but at that time a sort 
 of agent for the prince. Few were the days on which he 
 did not visit me ; and it was not until I was in the canoe 
 which was to take me to the ship that we parted. He had
 
 392 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. xm. 
 
 been, shortly afterward, attacked with the fever, and had 
 died a few days after reaching his home. He was a fine 
 noble-looking man, in the prime of life, about thirty years 
 of age. He stood six feet two inches high, and told me his 
 father was two inches taller than himself. On the same 
 day, soon after the officers from the palace had left me, I 
 was informed that the family of this chief wished to visit 
 me. I bade them welcome ; and the father of him whom I 
 used to call my tall friend, himself an erect, noble-looking 
 man, between fifty and sixty years of age ; his mother, a 
 matronly woman ; the widow of my friend, a healthy, inter- 
 esting-looking woman about five and twenty, and five chil- 
 dren, all entered my apartment. The father seated himself 
 in a chair, the mother and the widowed daughter-in-law 
 sat on the ground ; the widow carried a little boy in her 
 arms, and the other children placed themselves on the floor 
 around her. The interpreter, who did not know of my 
 former acquaintance with the chief, said, "Who are you?" 
 
 The venerable-looking man said, " I am Ea 's father." 
 
 He then looked at his wife, and she said, " I am his mother ;" 
 and, pointing to the young woman by her side, she said, 
 " This is his widow, and these are his children." The father 
 then said, "We have come with a small present in token of 
 our love, for our son loved you, and spoke much of you. 
 We shall never see him again, but seeing you seems to 
 bring him back to our thoughts." His servants then brought 
 in the present, consisting of poultry, eggs, and rice. I thank- 
 ed him, and told them it was a great satisfaction to me to see 
 them ; that I had mourned when I heard of their son's death, 
 but hoped they were comforted. 
 
 I had taken several photographic portraits of this chief 
 while in Tamatave, and after conversing a short time I took 
 out of my port-folio a small likeness of my friend, and handed 
 it to the father. He looked at it, and wept. The mother 
 took it, pressed it to her lips and kissed it, for some minutes
 
 CHAP. xiii. PRESENTS FROM THE PRINCE. 393 
 
 weeping silently, but profusely. A full-length portrait I 
 handed to the widow. She also kissed it and wept ; then 
 laid it down, and bent over her baby and wept. I could 
 not restrain my own feelings. At length the father and 
 mother both said, "We are glad to see you, though we 
 weep ; we shall never see him again, but we see you. You 
 were his friend : he loved you." I said, " Not more than I 
 loved him." Again they wept. After a while the father 
 said they must leave ; but, as they lived near, they would 
 come again. I said I should always be glad to see them ; 
 and on my asking if they would take one of the portraits, 
 or if I should put it in a frame for them, they all said, " Put 
 it in a frame for us. It will preserve it." 
 
 Before the close of the day, three officers came from the 
 prince and his wife, the Princess Eabodo, the daughter of 
 the queen's eldest sister, with a present of an ox, a quantity 
 of poultry, rice, and eggs ; and with friendly inquiries. Af- 
 ter conversing some time they retired, with my acknowl- 
 edgments of the kindness of the prince and princess. I had 
 scarcely finished my dinner, when another party of officers 
 came from the commander-in-chief, one of the highest offi- 
 cers of the government, with a present of a sheep, poultry, 
 etc. The officers were very intelligent and interesting men, 
 and I was much gratified with the intercourse which their 
 visit afforded. In the course of the evening one of the 
 officers of the palace came. He said the queen had ex- 
 pressed herself perfectly satisfied with my coming, and 
 pleased with the communications of which I was the bear- 
 er. She said it was only like the English, for the King of 
 England had been the first to make friendship with Eada- 
 ma, and that Queen Victoria did not change. The officers 
 had also all expressed themselves pleased with these com- 
 munications. He inquired about the presents I had brought. 
 I said that, besides one confided to my care by the Governor 
 of Mauritius, I had a few articles, but was afraid they would
 
 394 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. xm. 
 
 be very inadequate when compared with the presents which 
 I had received. I, however, made out the best list I 
 could. 
 
 We then spoke of the things that would be likely to in- 
 terest the chiefs and people, and be desired by them. Sev- 
 eral of the people had already applied to me for medicine. 
 My friend said some of the chiefs and people would be very 
 glad to have medicine, and he should wish for some kinds 
 himself; but I had better not say any thing about that to 
 the queen, as one of her favorite officers had lately died 
 after taking some medicine given him by a foreign resident. 
 We then spoke about the electric telegraph; but he said 
 some of the officers, when it was first talked about, were 
 very much interested, but the queen had said she did not 
 care about it. We then referred to photography. He said 
 the queen and some of the people had a superstitious idea 
 to the effect that if their likenesses were taken they would 
 soon die ; that the likeness resembled the spirit of a person, 
 and when that was gone said, "Why what is there left?" 
 I began to think " Othello's occupation's gone ;" but I re- 
 ferred to the likenesses I had brought with me of persons 
 still living, and my visitor acknowledged that it was only 
 a superstitious idea, and said he should like to have his 
 own likeness taken, and would show it to the queen. His 
 opinion of the dignity of photography seemed also to be a 
 little changed when I told him there was a photographic 
 society in England, of which our own sovereign Queen 
 Victoria and Prince Albert were the patrons, and persons 
 of rank and title members. He then talked about educa- 
 tion among the people, which is here carried on only in the 
 family circle. At length he left me, and I promised him 
 some medicine which he had mentioned. 
 
 Late as it was, two kind friendly families came to visit 
 and talk with me, bringing, as usual, their presents. I did 
 not slight their kindness by declining their gifts; but I
 
 CHAP. xin. EXCUKSION INTO THE COUNTRY. 395 
 
 sent the presents I received to other persons to be taken 
 care of. 
 
 In the forenoon of the following day three young officers 
 of the palace came to say that they had been appointed by 
 the queen to accompany me should I wish to ride out into 
 the country. I thanked the queen, and said I should be 
 glad to accompany them in the afternoon. About two 
 o'clock a messenger came to say that the prince would ac- 
 company me, and that the present was better than a later 
 hour. A palanquin with bearers was also provided for my 
 use. 
 
 I set out soon afterward with the three young officers on 
 horseback. Many of the people appeared on the walls and 
 terraces of the houses as we passed along. Toward the sub- 
 urbs we overtook the prince, attended by a number of offi- 
 cers and surrounded by crowds of people. I alighted at 
 the place where he was standing, which was a high part of 
 the road overlooking the large parade-ground toward the 
 west. A number of large cannons on wooden carriages 
 were ranged along the edge of the road. I saw by the 
 marks they were English guns. The greeting of the prince 
 was cordial ; and when he entered his palanquin he ordered 
 the bearers of mine to keep in advance, but his own palan- 
 quin was soon alongside, and whenever the road was suffi- 
 ciently wide we were near enough to converse with ease. 
 
 "We were altogether quite a large party. There were 
 three palanquins, a young chief belonging to the queen's 
 family being with the prince. There were also six officers 
 on horseback, besides many on foot, with their attendants 
 and the bearers. We proceeded in a northerly direction, 
 by Andohalo, one of the places at which public assemblies 
 are convened, and past a spot where what was once a chapel 
 is now a prison ; and shortly afterward turned to the west- 
 ward, passing an artificial lake or pond, with an island in 
 the centre, and a bridge or causeway connecting the island
 
 396 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR CHAP. xin. 
 
 with the shore. In the suburb we passed through a mar- 
 ket, where the goods in great variety were spread on the 
 ground ; and in about half an hour left the house, and fol- 
 lowed the road across the low flat ground covered with rice- 
 fields. 
 
 The people as we passed along came to the road side to 
 salute the prince. Every person in the road moved to the 
 side as the prince approached, and the people in the fields 
 or inclosures hastened to the road as he passed. All saluted 
 him with, "May you live, sovereign or master," and the 
 homage seemed to be very cordially rendered. I inferred 
 somewhat of the habits of the prince from a conversation 
 among the officers, who observed that he had since the 
 morning personally visited between twenty and thirty 
 houses for the purpose of advising and directing the people, 
 listening to their requests or composing differences, etc., and 
 I did not wonder at his being so popular among them. 
 
 At length we reached a bridge called Ambaniala, stretch- 
 ing across a considerable stream. The bridge consisted of 
 a number of slabs of primitive rock, eight or ten feet long 
 and four or five feet wide, laid horizontally on piles of 
 stones. Continuing our way partly along the border of the 
 stream, we passed through several villages and came to an- 
 other bridge, Ilavatehezana, literally long bridge. I was as- 
 tonished at the structure, rude as it was, when informed 
 that it was all entirely native workmanship. The bridge, 
 a series of arches of different sizes, stretched across the Riv- 
 er Andranomiery, a shallow, but smooth and flowing stream, 
 forty yards across. The arches, eleven in number, were 
 some of them fifteen feet in the centre of the arch above 
 the water. Others were narrower and lower. On alight- 
 ing from the palanquins the prince offered me his arm, and 
 we walked together to the bridge, which was about five feet 
 wide on the top, and used only by foot-passengers. 
 
 The prince and two of his aids-de-camp spoke English so
 
 CHAP. xin. THE SILVER SPEAR, OR "HATER OF LIES." 397 
 
 as to make themselves generally understood. From them 
 I learned that the bridge was entirely planned and built by 
 natives, and had been finished about three years. They 
 said they had books about building bridges, and followed 
 the directions in the books as far as they could. The stones 
 were cemented with clay, but I noticed that in some places 
 near the water-line the cement was washed away ; and they 
 said that during the rainy season there was a great body of 
 water. 
 
 Leaving the bridge, we journeyed westward through sev- 
 eral villages, and some extensive rice-fields, then lying fal- 
 low. The soil of these fields was a loose red sand, with stiff 
 gray clay. The grounds were well dug, and the spadefuls 
 of soil piled up like newly-made bricks in a brick-field, that 
 it might be penetrated with sun and wind, and pulverized 
 before receiving the water. At length we reached another 
 bridge, spanning a river nearly as wide as that which we 
 had left. This bridge was a more compact and solid struc- 
 ture than the former, but also without mortar. On the 
 western side of this bridge is the village of Ambaniana ; 
 and, this being market-day, multitudes of the people were 
 returning over the bridge. The village of Anosizato lit- 
 erally, a hundred islands lying a short distance to the south- 
 ward, looked attractive, but we now turned toward the cap- 
 ital. 
 
 The prince and his companions were exceedingly com- 
 municative during the ride, pointing out the distant villages, 
 and mentioning their names. On our way we passed a num- 
 ber of officers, one of whom carried a large broad-headed 
 silver spear. The whole of our party saluted the spear as 
 it was carried past, and the prince afterward told me it was 
 Tsitialainga, the hater of lies, the revealer of crimes, the de- 
 tector of criminals, and an emblem of power in Madagascar. 
 The officer who bore it was one of the queen's heralds on an 
 errand of justice. Whenever anyone is accused of a crime
 
 398 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. xm. 
 
 by Tsitialainga, this spear is planted in the doorway ; and 
 no one dares to leave the house until it is removed. 
 
 The prince appeared much interested in learning the 
 names and properties of some few of the plants we saw on 
 our route. Soon after five o'clock we reached Isoaierana, 
 a spacious building, which the prince had more than once 
 pointed out during our ride, telling me it had been built by 
 the late king Kadama. An immense hill had been removed 
 to provide a site for this building, which we approached by 
 passing through a level space four or five hundred yards 
 wide. The prince then asked if I would enter; and, alight- 
 ing from the palanquin at one of the principal entrances, 
 he took my arm, and led me in, until we reached a large 
 room nearly a hundred feet long and forty feet wide, ap- 
 parently occupying the entire centre of the building. It 
 was a splendid room, though too low to be well proportion- 
 ed. The walls were wainscoted, the floor of native wood 
 beautifully polished, and inlaid in large square panels or 
 mosaics, some kinds richly colored, and varying almost 
 through every shade, from ebony to maple. It is said 
 there are forty rooms on the ground-floor of this building, 
 besides chambers or attics ; but as the evening was advanc- 
 ing, we did not prolong our stay. All the servants in the 
 house retired to a distance as we entered ; but, as we de- 
 parted, they gathered outside, and offered their salutations 
 to the prince. 
 
 This remarkable building is altogether of wood, the walls 
 outside covered with diagonal panels, the sides screened 
 with double verandas, and the roof covered with shingles. 
 The lower veranda is protected by an iron railing, and 
 also by an iron chain on low posts, at a short distance from 
 the house. Considering the state of civilization in the coun- 
 try at the time of its erection, Isoaierana is an astonishing 
 building, and would be a splendid mansion had it but been 
 higher. It was built about thirty years ago, as a sort of
 
 CHAP. xm. PLACES OF EXECUTION. 399 
 
 suburban residence, by Eadama, under the direction of M. 
 Le Gros, a French resident at the capital. The labor of pro- 
 curing timber from the forest fifty miles distant must have 
 been immense ; and it is said that about sixty carpenters 
 were employed four years on the works. 
 
 After we left the domain the people crowded the road, 
 and saluted the prince as he passed. On approaching the 
 capital I observed that the south end of the hill on which 
 it stands is rocky, and almost destitute of houses. The 
 prince pointed out a part of the naked rock, which he 
 said was Ambohipotsi, which I knew to be the common 
 place of execution, and where several of the Christians had 
 been put to death. It was three hundred or four hundred 
 feet above the path. Shortly afterward we passed within 
 sight of the pile of granite rock, three hundred feet high, 
 from which criminals are hurled and dashed to pieces on 
 the rocky fragments below. 
 
 The sun had set when we re-entered the capital, and, 
 passing for a long distance through the labyrinth of streets, 
 we halted. The prince alighted at the house of one of hi 
 officers, and wished me good-night. I re-entered my palan- 
 quin and, going a few yards farther, was put down at my 
 own door soon after six o'clock, much pleased with the op- 
 portunity I had enjoyed of viewing this comparatively pop- 
 ulous and well-cultivated portion of the country, and deep- 
 ly affected by the associations connected with some of the 
 objects I had beheld. 
 
 A number of friends came in the evening, and the con- 
 versation naturally turned upon the events of recent years, 
 and the scenes which had been witnessed on the spots I had 
 passed during the day. The statements to which I listened 
 were deeply affecting. My friends had also many ques- 
 tions to ask respecting the customs of my own and other 
 countries, especially our mode of conducting funerals, etc. 
 
 The next day was the Sabbath. I had but few visitors,
 
 400 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. xni. 
 
 and was glad to secure more than usual retirement and 
 quiet, until the evening, when one of the officers of the pal- 
 ace came and took tea with me, talking about many things 
 for the good of the kingdom. After he had left a num- 
 ber of friends came, among them the widow of a Christian 
 friend whom I had known in Tamatave in 1854, but who 
 had died of fever. Also the widows and orphans of those 
 who had been put to death for their faith. They were 
 plain, quiet, sorrowful women, scarcely past middle age. 
 One of the children, to whom I promised some medicine, 
 was much afflicted. It was a very affecting meeting. I 
 spoke kindly to them, until at length they rose and retired 
 with their friends. 
 
 Two days after this I prepared for another excursion into 
 the country, having been invited to accompany the prince 
 and his wife, the Princess Eabodo, on a visit to Mahazoari- 
 vo, the country-house of the late Eadama. A little before 
 noon a messenger came to say that the prince and princess 
 were about to leave the palace, and I was to follow the mes- 
 senger. As we approached the palace they were descend- 
 ing toward the road. A friendly officer of the palace met 
 me and told me that, as this would be my first public rec- 
 ognition by the members of the queen's family, I had better 
 offer a hasina, or gift of a dollar, as no one approaches the 
 representative of the queen without it. The avenue lead- 
 ing to the palace gate was completely crowded. Two offi- 
 cers of high rank, in rich uniform, approached, and soon aft- 
 er the prince, in an open palanquin. He shook hands with 
 me very cordially, and in a few minutes the princess, in an 
 open palanquin, came up. She held out her fyand and bade 
 me welcome, saying the queen was glad I was going with 
 them. I acknowledged her kindness, and then presented to 
 the chief officer attending her the hasina. The officer im- 
 mediately exclaimed, " He makes hasina to the queen !" and 
 the prince and princess appeared pleased. An officer then
 
 CHAP. xin. PROCESSION OF THE PRINCE. 401 
 
 directed my bearers to their place in the procession, and we 
 proceeded down the eastern side of the hill. Judging from 
 the multitudes of the people, and the general excitement, 
 this must have been quite a holiday. 
 
 The procession occupied full half a mile. There were a 
 dozen or more officers on horseback, and the horses, though 
 not well groomed, were strong and spirited. There were 
 fourteen palanquins, ornamented with variously-colored 
 drapery. In one of these, a beautiful youth, the son of the 
 Prince Eamboasalama, attracted my attention. When the 
 procession moved, eight or ten officers on horseback led the 
 way, and others rode by the side of the palanquins. Then 
 came the officers of the palace, in palanquins or on foot ; 
 and after these the prince's band of nineteen musicians, in- 
 cluding five clarionets, five flutes and fifes, one bassoon, 
 four bugles, a bass and a smaller drum, and a triangle. 
 The musicians were preceded and followed by two officers 
 with drawn swords. Then came the prince's palanquin, 
 with three or four officers walking on each side with drawn 
 swords. Next to the prince came the princess, her palan- 
 quin covered with scarlet cloth, ornamented with gold-lace, 
 and bordered with rich gold fringe, like that used for offi- 
 cers' epaulets, and the inside lined with pink satin. By the 
 side of the princess a man carried a large umbrella of pink 
 silk, surmounted with a gilt ball ; and immediately behind 
 her palanquin, a dozen or more female slaves followed, 
 clothed in broad-striped blue and white cotton lambas. A 
 daughter of Prince Eamonja, but adopted by the princess, 
 an interesting girl about seventeen, occupied the next pa- 
 lanquin. Three other palanquins followed with the ladies 
 in waiting, or attendants on the princess. After them a 
 few officers, and then the crowd. 
 
 The whole road, from some distance before the horses in 
 front, to two or three hundred yards after the last palanquin, 
 was so crowded that it was difficult to proceed. The prince, 
 
 Co
 
 402 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CIIAP. xiii. 
 
 who wore a black coat witli a silver star, had a broad silk 
 band or ribbon of red and green across his breast beneath 
 his vest, with the gold-fringed ends hanging down by his 
 side. The princess wore a blue dress made in the Euro- 
 pean style, trimmed with scarlet velvet, and ornamented 
 with rows of small gilt buttons, a pink satin bonnet with 
 artificial flowers, a veil, and lace tippet. One of the ladies 
 wore a curious native or Arabic headdress; the others 
 were in European costume ; all were decorated with a pro- 
 fusion of gold chains and jewelry; and all rode in open 
 palanquins. A few of the officers were in blue uniform ; a 
 number wore scarlet trowsers, with the white flowing lamba 
 bordered with the akotso or five broad stripes, while the 
 attendants, and the crowds who followed or scattered them- 
 selves by the side of the procession, seemed all to wear their 
 holiday dress. 
 
 The day was fine, the scene bright, with a light cool 
 breeze. The union of the different modes of travel charac- 
 teristic of different countries, the officers on horseback as in 
 Europe, the princes in palanquins as in Asia; the light, 
 loose, flowing, and gaily-colored drapery of the East, inter- 
 mingled with the stiff quiet-toned apparel of the West ; the 
 music of Europe, and the language of Madagascar, with the 
 lively and jocund air of the throng: and then the moving 
 along amid objects new and attractive ; the massive rocky 
 base of the capital, the houses and their inhabitants on one 
 side; and the wide cultivated plain, diversified by hills 
 surmounted with villages, on the other ; all these combined 
 to afford new sources of pleasure and excitement. 
 
 Having proceeded by a somewhat circuitous route from 
 the north to the east side of the capital, the road led to 
 within a few hundred yards of the palace, where a large 
 scarlet umbrella and a number of figures were seen on the 
 terrace in front of the palace. The procession halted, all 
 hats were taken off, and the band played the Malagasy
 
 CHAP. xiii. HOMAGE WITH THE PRODUCE OF THE SOIL. 403 
 
 " God save the queen," a not unpleasing native tune. The 
 queen had come out upon the terrace to see the prince and 
 princess pass. In a few minutes the scarlet umbrella dis- 
 appeared, and the procession as represented in the frontis- 
 piece moved on. The arrangement which placed me during 
 the day next to the queen's secretary, who, having been 
 educated in England, speaks English well, was to me pe- 
 culiarly gratifying, as he kindly pointed out and explained 
 several places and objects of interest observed on our way. 
 
 As we passed the south end of the capital a number of 
 soldiers appeared on a rising ground. I was told they were 
 the artillery. We also saw over a hollow between two 
 mountains, and at a considerable distance, the wide ground 
 at Isoaierana, where a large body of men, apparently sev- 
 eral thousands, was assembled. I was told they were the 
 troops in the neighborhood of the capital, who are exercised 
 together once a fortnight. On reaching the village of An- 
 drondra, the prince and princess, accompanied by their fol- 
 lowers, looked over a tract of rice-ground which the queen 
 had recently given to them. This had been one of the ob- 
 jects of the excursion, and, as soon as it was accomplished, 
 we turned to the eastward, passing along a road between 
 low, flat rice-fields. As we approached the villages, I fre- 
 quently saw a number of the inhabitants coming out of their 
 gardens with a bundle of sugar-canes freshly broken off, or 
 a small basket of manioc roots or sweet potatoes just dug 
 up, and, running in eager haste to the side of the road, wait- 
 ing there, often spade in hand, until the prince and princess 
 came up, when they presented to them the produce of the 
 ground, and offered their salutations an interesting and 
 primitive species of homage. The prince acknowledged 
 their gifts, which were delivered to his followers as the par- 
 ty moved along. 
 
 At length we reached Mahazoarivo, the country residence 
 of the late king. "While passing under the gateway leading
 
 404 . VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. xm. 
 
 to the grounds, all took off their hats. We first stopped to 
 look at a stone house, of rather small dimensions, in course 
 of erection, and then passed along through avenues of ba- 
 nanas and vines. The latter were planted in circular holes, 
 about two yards across, and eighteen inches or two feet 
 deep, which mode, I was told, prevented their being burned 
 up in the hot season. They appeared to require pruning, 
 but were said to bear good grapes. In about ten minutes 
 we reached the house, a moderate-sized but well-built cot- 
 tage, encircled with a wide veranda, and standing on the 
 margin of a piece of water thronged with water-fowl. On 
 alighting, the officers and others formed a circle in front of 
 the house. The prince entered the circle, and, when the 
 princess arrived, he assisted her from her palanquin, and. 
 drawing her arm within his own, they entered the house to- 
 gether, when the prince, turning round, invited the company 
 to enter. 
 
 On again presenting myself before the prince and prin- 
 cess, and acknowledging the pleasure which the excursion 
 had afforded me, they said the queen had told them to ask 
 me to join them, in order that I might see the country. 
 They then made many inquiries about England, especially 
 about the Queen and Prince Albert, how many children 
 they had, their various ages, etc. ; and both, but especially 
 the princess, expressed much interest when I mentioned the 
 rumor that the Princess Koyal of England was to be con- 
 nected by marriage with the royal family of Prussia. Then 
 they asked about the war how many troops had been en- 
 gaged, how many killed, whether it was thought that peace 
 would continue, and whether the people of England were 
 pleased with it, etc. The princess conversed with gentle- 
 ness and affability. I noticed, while they were standing to- 
 gether, that, if not slightly taller, she was the senior of the 
 prince. There was a table in the room spread with sweet- 
 meats, biscuits, and fruit, and with silver plates and knives,
 
 CHAP. xni. REFRESHMENTS AND MUSIC. 405 
 
 and silver forks. The princess moved to the table, and asked 
 if I would take some fruit, apologizing for the smallness of 
 the supply, and intimating that they were merely halting to 
 rest. The bananas, however, were very fine. She asked 
 me if we had any in England. I told her only a few, as 
 they would not grow with us except in houses of glass. I 
 told her I had seen some of Queen Victoria's bananas grow- 
 ing in her glass-house at Kew, which I endeavored to de- 
 scribe, and said that, although our pine-apples, peaches, 
 grapes, and some other kinds of fruit were very fine, the 
 bananas were not so good as those of Madagascar, which 
 were certainly finer than any I had seen in the South Sea 
 Islands, Mauritius, or Ceylon. They then talked about mu- 
 sic, asking if Queen Victoria was fond of music. The prince 
 then ordered his band outside the door to play the English 
 "God save the Queen," which, considering the place and the 
 performers, was well executed ; the musicians of Madagas- 
 car having been originally taught during two years' resi- 
 dence in Mauritius, by the band-master of one of the En- 
 glish regiments there. This well-known tune was to me so 
 unexpected, that I was more affected than I should other- 
 wise have supposed would have been the case. " Rule Bri- 
 tannia" was the next tune played; then the "Grenadiers' 
 March," and others equally familiar. 
 
 The prince and princess asked whether Queen Victoria 
 ever had dancing in her palace ; and, thanks to some in- 
 formation gathered from the court newsman, and remem- 
 bered at the time, I was able to answer with tolerable pre- 
 cision ; and added that music, as an element of civilization, 
 was more cultivated in England than formerly. They ask- 
 ed if I could dance. I replied in the negative, and added 
 that the society with which I associated in England did not 
 practice dancing. A walk in the garden was then pro- 
 posed. The prince was accompanied by the princess. The 
 queen's secretary offered his arm to the daughter of Prince
 
 406 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. xui. 
 
 Ramonja; and it devolved on me, as next to the secretary, 
 to offer mine to the first of the court ladies, a richly-dressed 
 and portly dame. I was pleased with a fine palmyra-tree, 
 and some good specimens of rare indigenous plants, and 
 said Madagascar was rich in curious and valuable vegeta- 
 ble productions. My companion did not understand En- 
 glish, and I expressed my regret that I did not speak Mala- 
 gasy. Some of the company remarked that it was very 
 difficult to speak English ; and, on my congratulating the 
 prince on his attainments and urging him to persevere, that, 
 in the event of his ever visiting England, he might be able 
 to converse with those he would meet with, the princess 
 laughed heartily at the idea of his visiting England. He 
 said he understood much of what I said, as he remember- 
 ed the meaning of words when he heard them, though he 
 could not recollect the words when he wanted to speak. 
 They then again referred to the rumors of a hostile expedi- 
 tion from France, and asked if I knew any thing about it. 
 I said I did not think it likely, as the Emperor of the French 
 was regarded as a just and equitable sovereign, and the En- 
 glish and the French were very friendly. 
 
 We now returned to the house, where I was again di- 
 rected to a seat by the side of the officer who spoke En- 
 glish, and sat next to the princess. I noticed that both the 
 prince and princess carried a small gold cylindrical snuff- 
 box, having the stopper or lid attached by a small gold 
 chain. The first officer had a very handsome silver snuff- 
 box, studded with precious stones. 
 
 Dancing now commenced. Four of the prince's aids-de- 
 camp led out the daughter of Prince Ramonja and the three 
 court ladies. The princess more than once asked what I 
 thought of their dancing. I replied that they appeared to 
 dance with ease. Many questions were put respecting the 
 kind of dances which Queen Victoria had in her palace, 
 of which I was compelled to acknowledge my ignorance.
 
 CHAP. xin. DANCING BEFORE THE PRINCESS. 407 
 
 They asked, as I had been in France and Italy, which mu- 
 sic was the best. I told them some kinds in both countries 
 were very good, and so was the music of Germany, in some 
 respects, better than either. They asked about the singing 
 and dancing of these countries, to which I replied that there 
 was much feeling in the singing of the Italians, and that 
 the dancing of the Italian peasants was the most pleasing 
 of any I had seen. They became much interested, and, as 
 the house in which we were seated was small, gave orders 
 to proceed to Isoaierana, the mansion I had previously vis- 
 ited with the prince, about two miles distant. On arriving 
 at this place the officers again formed a circle round the 
 door until the prince and princess had entered and invited 
 them to follow, after which they entered. We assembled 
 in the spacious saloon or hall, with the band at one end. 
 After conversing some time, the band struck up. Eight 
 young men danced first. Four officers and the court ladies 
 then danced what was called an English country-dance, and 
 I was appealed to as to its being veritably such, but was 
 again obliged to express my ignorance on the subject. At 
 the close of each dance the dancers came and made a low 
 obeisance before the prince and princess, and then returned 
 to their seats. 
 
 The music continued, with occasional intervals of con- 
 versation, until five o'clock, when the prince and princess 
 rose. The prince, who had treated the princess with the 
 most marked attention throughout the day, now led her to 
 her palanquin, and then entered his own. I was amused 
 at the rush and bustle which the departure of the prince 
 and princess occasioned in collecting bearers and bringing 
 the palanquins and horses to the front of the house where 
 the owners were in waiting for them, as etiquette required 
 that all the other palanquins should precede those of the 
 prince and his consort. 
 
 We took the road by which I had returned with the
 
 408 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. xm. 
 
 prince on the previous occasion. There are two encamp- 
 ments in the neighborhood of the capital, and the soldiers 
 occupying these encampments had been exercising during 
 the former part of the day in the plain we had left. Our 
 way led us near a number of small encampments. The 
 tents were formed of rofia cloth. The soldiers on duty in 
 each encampment were called out, and saluted their young 
 rulers as we passed. The men wore the white cloth in na- 
 tive fashion round their loins, with cross-belts and eartouch- 
 boxes over their naked shoulders, and were all armed with 
 muskets and bayonets. One of the officers told me there 
 were 40,000 troops in the two encampments, and a company 
 of artillery. I saw, however, but a comparatively small 
 number of the soldiers. My friend pointed out to me again 
 the place of execution, as well as the graves of Mr. Hastie, 
 Mr. Tyerman, and the members of the mission families who 
 had died at the capital. The spot was surrounded by a 
 small iron fence. He also pointed out the former residences 
 of the missionaries, with other places of interest. 
 
 The sun had set when we entered the capital. At the 
 place where I had joined the procession I alighted, thanked 
 the prince and princess for the gratification they had afford- 
 ed me, and then proceeded to my own residence, which I 
 reached between six and seven o'clock, just as it was be- 
 coming dark. In the evening two parties of friends from 
 different parts of the country came, and we continued in 
 deeply-interesting conversation until a late hour. 
 
 During the two succeeding days I saw numerous friends 
 and many visitors, some from Vonizongo, where affliction 
 has been very severely felt. The immediate descendants 
 and other relatives of Eafaravavy were among the number. 
 I had now almost ceaseless applications for medicine, and 
 was glad to comply with as many requests as I could. One 
 of my bearers from Tamatave was a slave, and I was so 
 much pleased with his attention and general behavior that
 
 CHAP. xiii. A SLAVE'S PROPOSAL. 409 
 
 I told him I should be glad to hire him when I had any 
 thing to do. The next morning he came to say that his 
 master was willing to sell him, and also to entreat me to 
 buy him, and expressing great regret when I told him I 
 could not gratify his wishes. I knew that I could not take 
 him away with me, and was not certain that, had I purchased 
 his liberty, he would not have been enslaved again after my 
 departure. Compared with slavery as it existed formerly 
 in our colonies, the yoke on Malagasy slaves sits easy, yet 
 it is a bitter and soul-depressing lot. I was often impressed 
 with the indifference manifested by the slave to many things 
 that to others are objects of eager desire and evident satis- 
 faction. When I have offered some present, as a piece of 
 cloth, in return for some service rendered, or even a piece 
 of money, the slave has scarcely cared to accept it ; and 
 when I have expressed my surprise at such indifference, I 
 have been told by some around me, " It is of no use giving 
 any thing to him. If it is a present his master will take it 
 when he returns home ; if it is money he must give it to 
 his master." Nothing is his but what he eats and drinks. 
 Hence access to the kitchen seemed to be the best reward 
 a slave could receive.
 
 410 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAT. xiv. 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 Audience of the Queen at the Palace. Salutation to the Queen. Allusion 
 to Presentation to Queen Victoria. Offering of the Hasina. Declara- 
 tion of the Friendship of the English toward the Malagasy. The Queen's 
 Reply relative to the Constancy of the English. Assurance of Friend- 
 ship and Good-will from the English Government. Desire of the Queen 
 for Amity with all Nations. Description of the Palace. The Queen's 
 Appearance, Dress, and regal State. The Members of her Court. 
 Satisfaction of the Queen with my Visit. Breakfast with M. Laborde. 
 Conversations with the Prince. Wealth of Malagasy Nobles. Dinner 
 given by the Queen. Number of Dishes. Native Plate. Music. 
 Speeches after Dinner. Sovereign Rights of Nations. Visits of the 
 Sick. Intercourse with Natives who had visited Bourbon. Photographic 
 Difficulties. Presents for the Queen. Portraits of the Queen and Prince 
 Consort peculiarly gratifying. Invitation to the Palace. Music. Saka- 
 lave Dance. Native and European Dances. Gorgeous and splendid Cos- 
 tume of the Court. 
 
 EARLY on the morning of the 5th of September, a pres- 
 ent of poultry came from the queen, and a note from a 
 friend in the palace to say that the queen would see me 
 during the day. I venture to insert the note conveying 
 this intelligence as evidence of the absence of all circumlo- 
 cution in the official and semi-official communications from 
 the Malagasy seat of government. The note was as fol- 
 lows: 
 
 "Friday morning. 
 
 " MY DEAR FRIEND, I inform you as a friend that the 
 queen will give you an audience to-day in the palace ; con- 
 sequently when you are ordered to come up, put on your 
 best dress, etc., etc., and take a gold sovereign and a dollar. 
 How are you this morning? 
 
 " Yours truly, E ."
 
 CHAP. xiv. INVITATION TO THE PALACE. 411 
 
 In the course of the forenoon my friend came to inform 
 me that I should be required to attend about three o'clock, 
 and to inquire how I meant to dress. I told him I had not 
 thought of any other dress than such as I should wear at 
 a dinner or evening party in England. He did not seem 
 satisfied, and expressed a wish to see my wardrobe ; and 
 discovering in a chest which I opened a rich satin green 
 and purple plaid dressing-gown, with scarlet lining, which 
 I had purchased in London for a present to one of the no- 
 bles, he instantly suggested that I should put that on over 
 my coat, and throw one side back that the lining might also 
 be seen. I at first thought him jesting; but, finding him 
 very much in earnest, I consented to comply with his wishes. 
 A few minutes after three o'clock the following note was 
 delivered: 
 
 " Sin, Please to follow the bearer of this as quick as 
 possible, that you may have an audience of her majesty. 
 " Yours truly, E ." 
 
 I finished my toilet, including the dressing-gown, not 
 much to my own satisfaction, and proceeded to my palan- 
 quin, where I could not help noticing the dress of some of 
 my own bearers, especially Sodra, who, on his head or per- 
 son^ had got something of almost every color in the rain- 
 bow, and arranged after his own fashion. 
 
 As we approached the palace crowds of people lined the 
 road. We halted on reaching the post of the first guards 
 outside the gates, where the officer who was with us an- 
 nounced our arrival. In a few minutes orders came for us 
 to proceed. As we passed under the large wooden gate- 
 way, filling up the centre of a neat stone arch, we took off 
 our hats, advanced toward the palace across a square fifty 
 or sixty yards wide, three sides of which were lined with 
 troops four deep, with a band on the east side. The sol-
 
 412 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR CHAP. xiv. 
 
 diers wore the white cloth round the waist, with white 
 cross-belts upon their brown skins, and were certainly tall, 
 athletic-looking men. The commanding officer, a man be- 
 yond the middle age, but active and vigorous, wore a silk 
 shawl wound like a loose turban on his head, a finely -figur- 
 ed shirt, a handsome silk lamba or scarf round his waist as 
 a sash, the fringed ends reaching to his ankles, and carried 
 in his hand a bright, highly-ornamented cimeter. As the 
 military evolutions were not finished, we halted for a short 
 time about half way across the court, and then proceeded 
 to the position appointed us within three or four yards of 
 the soldiers, and in front of the long white veranda under 
 which the queen and her court were assembled. We all 
 bowed to the queen, pronouncing the salutation, "Tsara, 
 tsara, tompoko" "It is well, it is well, sovereign." We 
 then turned to the east, and bowed to the tomb of Eadama, 
 a small square stone building on the side of the court. We 
 were then conducted to our appointed places. I was placed 
 in the centre, immediately before the queen, with an inter- 
 preter on each side. Two French gentlemen residing in 
 the capital had been invited to be present. M. Laborde, a 
 French resident, stood on the right of one of the interpret- 
 ers, and M. Fenez, a French Eoman Catholic priest, a stout, 
 good-natured-looking man, on the left. He was residing 
 with M. Laborde, and had been introduced to me as M. 
 Hervier. M. Laborde's costume was in excellent style ; and 
 M. Hervier, the priest, wore a dress coat and silk embroid- 
 ered waistcoat. The interpreters, officers who had been ed- 
 ucated in England, kept me so promptly informed as to 
 what I was to do, that I felt relieved from all apprehen- 
 sion of any gross violation of court etiquette. 
 
 It was now intimated that I must speak and offer the 
 hasina or customary offering, without which no stranger 
 approaches the sovereign. The interpreters charged me to 
 speak sufficiently loud for all to hear my speech as well as
 
 CHAP. xiv. PRESENTATION TO THE QUEEN. 413 
 
 their interpretation. I first thanked the queen for havino- 
 invited me to her presence, and hoped that she and her re- 
 lations were well. When this was interpreted her majesty 
 spoke to a tall, gray-headed chief, the queen's speaker or 
 orator, who stood between her and Eainjohary, the chief 
 minister; and the orator replied that the queen was well, 
 and all her relations were well, and asked how I was after 
 the journey, and whether I had been ill with the fever. I 
 thanked the queen, saying I had been slightly indisposed, 
 but was now well ; adding, that I had heard much of Mad- 
 agascar and of her majesty in my own country, where I 
 had had the honor of being presented to my own gracious 
 sovereign, Queen Victoria, of kneeling before her, and kiss- 
 ing her majesty's hand, the mode by which her subjects on 
 some occasions personally render their homage ; that I had 
 wished to visit Madagascar, and, now I had the honor of 
 being presented to her majesty, I begged to repeat my 
 thanks for that honor, and to present my hasina in token 
 of acknowledgment. Taking a sovereign out of my pock- 
 et, and throwing open my long loose robe in doing so, I 
 handed the sovereign to one of the officers. The hasina 
 was acknowledged on the part of the queen by a slight in- 
 clination of the head. I then said that the English had 
 long cherished sentiments of friendship toward the Mala- 
 gasy ; that, forty years ago, George IV., King of England, 
 wished to be a friend to king Kadama, and sent some of 
 his officers to make a treaty of friendship with him, and to 
 engage with him not to export slaves from his country ; 
 that Eadama kept that treaty faithfully ; and that her maj- 
 esty had not deviated from what Eadama had engaged to 
 do, and did not allow slaves to be exported from her coun- 
 try. That England did not change in its friendship toward 
 Madagascar; that, after the death of George IV., King Wil- 
 liam IV. reigned in England, and he was friendly to her 
 majesty's country, as her own embassador who had visited
 
 414 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. xiv. 
 
 his majesty could testify ; and that now Queen Victoria, 
 the present ruler of England, did not change in regard to 
 Madagascar, but was her majesty's friend, and the friend 
 of the government and people of Madagascar. 
 
 When this was interpreted the queen spoke to her ora- 
 tor, who replied that her majesty knew that the English 
 did not change, or were not uncertain in their friendship, 
 and that neither did she, the Queen of Madagascar, change 
 in her friendship ; that she cherished friendship toward 
 England, the government of England, and toward Queen 
 Victoria, and desired ever to do so. 
 
 I replied, I was sure it would be gratifying to the En- 
 glish to know this, for England desired to be friendly with 
 all nations, and considered peace and friendship and com- 
 mercial intercourse among nations the best means of pro- 
 moting the happiness of all. I said that the Eight Hon. 
 the Earl of Clarendon, Queen Victoria's chief minister for 
 all arrangements with foreign nations, having heard that I 
 was about to visit Madagascar, had desired me to tell her 
 majesty and her majesty's government that the English 
 government never had entertained any other than the most 
 friendly intentions toward Madagascar ; that the govern- 
 ment of Queen Victoria cherished no other wishes or inten- 
 tions now ; and that, if her majesty had heard any report to 
 the contrary, such report was altogether unfounded. I 
 added that it was stated in a letter which the Eight Hon. 
 the Earl of Clarendon directed to be written to me before I 
 left England, "that the government of her majesty the 
 Queen of England are most anxious for the welfare and 
 prosperity of Madagascar, and desire to maintain the most 
 amicable relations with the queen ; but they have no claim 
 and no intention to interfere with the internal affairs of the 
 island." 
 
 This was interpreted, and there was an expression of sat- 
 isfaction from the whole court. The queen then turning to
 
 CHAP. xiv. THE FRIENDSHIP OF ENGLAND. 415 
 
 the prince royal, her son, who sat next to her, and to Prince 
 Ramboasalama, her nephew, spoke with animation, and at 
 some length. Her orator then said that the Queen of Mad- 
 agascar was satisfied to possess the friendship of the English ; 
 that she wished to be the friend of her majesty Queen Vic- 
 toria and the English government ; and that she did not wish 
 to regard as enemies any (nation) across the seas, but to be 
 friendly with all, whether English, or French, or any other 
 nation. 
 
 I then begged to thank the queen for the kindness and 
 hospitality I had received ever since my arrival, more es- 
 pecially during the journey, and from her majesty and the 
 officers since my arrival at the capital. The queen replied 
 that it was right the officers should treat me as a friend. 
 Soon after this a number of the officers rose, and Eainjo- 
 hary, the chief minister, intimated that we might retire. 
 "We all bowed to the queen, turned to the east, and bowed 
 to the tomb of Kadama, and proceeded toward the gate ; but, 
 as the band struck up the Malagasy " God save the Queen," 
 we halted, and took off our hats ; and, finally, at about half 
 past four, left the palace through the same gate by which 
 we had entered. 
 
 Such was my first interview with the Queen of Madagas- 
 car. I believe the expression of satisfaction with the assur- 
 ance I was able to give of the friendship of England was 
 general and sincere. It confirmed the long-cherished pre- 
 possessions of the people in favor of our country. And 
 when it is recollected that nearly twenty years had elapsed 
 since any Englishman had visited the capital, and that for 
 nearly ten years previous to my first visit in company with 
 Mr. Cameron all amicable intercourse had been interrupted 
 in consequence of the unauthorized and unjustifiable attack 
 on Tamatave by the English frigate Conway, in conjunc- 
 tion with two French vessels ; and, more especially, if we 
 bear in mind the reports which, during that interval, had
 
 416 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. xiv. 
 
 been circulated in the island, to the effect that a hostile fleet 
 from England was coming against Madagascar, we shall not 
 be surprised at the cordial welcome with which the message 
 I had delivered was received. 
 
 The account of my presentation to the queen would, how- 
 ever, be incomplete without some slight notice of the palace 
 and its occupants. The palace called the Silver House is an 
 astonishing building. Few countries could furnish spars 
 such as those which form the angles of this wonderful struc- 
 ture. It is entirely of wood, and is spacious, lofty, and light, 
 as well as strong, and well put together ; parallelogram in 
 plan, and seemingly a hundred feet long ; fifty or sixty feet 
 wide, and seventy feet high. The walls are two stories high, 
 and the whole building surrounded by a double veranda. 
 The roof, which is of shingles, is steep, with three tiers of 
 attic windows in the ends and sides. The centre of the roof 
 is surmounted by a large gilt bird with outstretched wings. 
 I suppose the veromahery literally, bird of power a spe- 
 cies of vulture, and the crest or emblem of the Hovas. The 
 large court at the north end of the palace is inclosed by a 
 stone wall, and the gate is in the northern side of the square. 
 The building is not painted ; but the wood appeared to be 
 close-grained and durable. 
 
 The queen and court were assembled in the upper ve- 
 randa or balcony. Her majesty occupied the central place, 
 her seat being raised above the rest, and covered with green 
 damask. Her niece, the Princess Eabodo, and the female 
 members of her court, sat on her right hand ; her son next 
 to her, on the left ; then her nephew, the other members of 
 her family, and the chief officers of the government. A 
 large scarlet silk umbrella, embroidered and fringed with 
 gold, was held or fixed over the queen, and a smaller scar- 
 let umbrella, without ornament, was over the princess. The 
 queen's figure is not tall, but rather stout, her face round ? 
 the forehead well formed, the eyes small, nose short, but not
 
 
 AUDIENCE AT TIIE PALACE ANTANANABIVO.
 
 CHAP. xiv. APPEARANCE AND DRESS OF THE QUEEN. 41!> 
 
 broad, lips well defined and small, the chin slightly rounded. 
 The whole head and face small, compact, and well propor- 
 tioned ; her expression of countenance rather agreeable than 
 otherwise, though at times indicating great firmness. She 
 looked in good health, and vigorous, considering her age, 
 which is said to be sixty-eight. 
 
 Her majesty wore a crown made of plates of gold, with 
 an ornament and charm, something like a gold crocodile's 
 tooth, in the front plate ; she had also a necklace and large 
 earrings of gold. Her dress was a white satin lamba, with 
 sprigs of gold, which, considering the lamba as the national 
 Hova costume, was quite a queenly dress. The prince, her 
 son, wore his star and a coronet of apparently green velvet, 
 bordered with a ring and band of leaves of massive silver. 
 His cousin, Prince Kamboasalama, wore a black velvet cap 
 embroidered with gold. Many of the officers wore silk 
 lambas over their clothes. 
 
 Including the members of the queen's family, officers of 
 the government, and attendants, there might be perhaps 
 eighty or a hundred persons in the balcony, but a becom- 
 ing dignity and propriety of deportment was manifest in all. 
 No one spoke besides the queen and her orator, excepting 
 the prince and one or two others near her person, who re- 
 plied to some remarks which the queen addressed to them ; 
 and, could the remembrance of the tragic scenes which Mad- 
 agascar has witnessed within the last twenty or thirty years 
 have been blotted out, I should have gazed on the spectacle 
 without any diminution of interest or pleasure, as exhibit- 
 ing, in connection with the ruling power of the country, the 
 outward indication of its progress and civilization. 
 
 I had mentioned, when conversing with the princess at 
 Isoaierana, that I had some pieces of music with me, and in 
 the course of the evening a messenger came from the palace 
 to request that I would send them, also any more copies of 
 the London Illustrated News which I might have by me ;
 
 420 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. xiv. 
 
 and I was glad to supply them with such pieces of music as 
 a kind friend, Mrs. Bartholomew, a lady not unknown in the 
 musical world, had given me in London before my depart- 
 ure. I was afterward told that a new piece of music was 
 highly prized, and that the additions which my friends had 
 enabled me to make to the music used at the palace had 
 been particularly acceptable. The evening of this day I 
 devoted to writing my journal as far as the visits of friends 
 would allow, but they came in such numbers as to occasion 
 some anxiety to my companions. 
 
 I had been invited by the French gentleman whom I met 
 at the palace to breakfast with him on the following morn- 
 ing, and about nine o'clock one of the officers of the palace 
 called to accompany me. He informed me that the queen 
 and her court were pleased with the statement I had made 
 on the previous day, adding that all were delighted with 
 the pieces of music I had sent, and that the queen had said 
 she should some day send for me to hear the music and see 
 the dancing at the palace. On reaching the house of M. 
 Laborde we found the prince and one of his aids-de-camp 
 already there. I was also introduced to M. Hervier, the 
 French Eoman Catholic priest whom I had met at the pal- 
 ace the day before. Here I also met M. Laborde's son, a 
 young man about twenty, recently returned to Madagascar 
 after completing his education in France. In a short time 
 we sat down to a very sumptuous breakfast served in the 
 first style, a small band of music playing outside the house 
 during the time. Before commencing the breakfast the 
 health of the queen was proposed, and, when my glass was 
 filled, I apologized for not drinking, stating that I did not 
 drink wine, but cordially joined in the sentiment of the 
 toast. The next toast was the prince. I was sitting next 
 to him, and when all rose he said, "Drink or not, as you 
 like." I did not drink, but intimated my concurrence in 
 the toast, which he acknowledged. In conversation re-
 
 CHAP. xiv. BREAKFAST WITH A FKENCH RESIDENT. 421 
 
 specting the climate, our host said that the central prov- 
 inces were remarkably healthy, and that thin ice was some- 
 times seen in the mountains. We also talked about France, 
 as M. Laborde said his father lived at Pau, where I had 
 passed two winters. There were many kinds of wine on 
 the table, as well as abundance of viands, and plenty of 
 healths were drunk, including those of Queen Victoria, the 
 Emperor of the French, and the Queen of Madagascar. To- 
 ward the close of the breakfast our host suggested to the 
 Catholic priest to propose my health as their welcome guest ; 
 but as the priest did not appear to have heard him, M. La- 
 borde himself proposed it, observing that I was not a stran- 
 ger, but a friend, at the same time ordering the band to play 
 the English " God save the Queen" and " Eule Britannia." 
 Water-cresses, salad, fresh butter, preserves, etc., were served, 
 followed by dessert, and, what the French never fail to pro- 
 vide in every part of the world, a cup of good coffee. 
 
 Our conversation was chiefly about the politics of Eu- 
 rope and the late war, and the prince was unusually anima- 
 ted. Between one and two we took leave of our host and 
 his friends, who expressed their hope of our meeting again 
 soon. I walked home. The prince sent away his palan- 
 quin, took my arm, and accompanied me to my residence. 
 Here he dismissed his attendants, except one of his aids- 
 de-camp and an officer of the palace, who accompanied him 
 into the house, where we were soon engaged in grave and 
 earnest conversation on subjects intimately connected with 
 the prosperity of his country. He spoke feelingly of the 
 difficulties which impeded improvement among the Mala- 
 gasy, and made many inquiries respecting the sources of 
 prosperity in our own and other countries. This conversa- 
 tion increased the good opinion I had previously formed 
 of his understanding and capacity, while it confirmed my 
 views of the correctness of many of his opinions, the mark- 
 ed humanity of his feelings, and his earnest desire after the
 
 422 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. xiv. 
 
 true prosperity of his people. Much, that he said strength- 
 ened my hopes of the welfare of Madagascar if his valuable 
 life should be preserved. 
 
 While we were talking a present of a couple of baskets 
 of small lobsters arrived from the princess. I returned an 
 acknowledgment by the bearer, and assured the prince of 
 my sense of her kindness. He said she was pleased with 
 what she had seen of me, and would come with him some 
 evening to my house. I said I should be glad to see the 
 princess, but, being only a traveler and a sojourner for a 
 short time in the capital, I could offer no suitable entertain- 
 ment. He said it would not be for the entertainment that 
 the princess would come, but to express her pleasure at the 
 arrival of a friendly visitor from England, and to hear our 
 conversation. The afternoon was far advanced before the 
 prince and his companion left. I had not many visitors 
 that evening, most of my friends being engaged in another 
 direction. 
 
 The next day I received a note from the palace convey- 
 ing an invitation to a dinner to be given by the queen on 
 the following day at a house adjacent to the palace, and 
 lately occupied by one of her chief ministers, whose son had 
 already paid me more than one visit. As illustrating the 
 wealth of some of the Malagasy nobles I was told that the 
 late owner of the house to which I had been invited was, at 
 the time of his death, said to be possessed of 30,000 dollars, 
 1000 slaves, and 3000 head of cattle, besides sheep. This 
 property had been divided after his death between his wid- 
 ow and children, a son and two daughters. Wealth equal 
 in amount to that here stated is probably confined to a lim- 
 ited number of the highest nobles and chief officers of the 
 government. Property appeared to be estimated, not by 
 the extent of land which a man possessed, but by the num- 
 ber of his dollars, slaves, or cattle ; hence an individual, 
 speaking on one occasion of the losses he had suffered, con-
 
 CHAP. xiv. DINNER GIVEN BY THE QUEEN. 423 
 
 eluded by saying, " Formerly I had fifty slaves ; now I have 
 not twenty." 
 
 At three o'clock on the day appointed, an officer came 
 to conduct me to the dinner; and after ascending by a 
 somewhat steep path to the crest of the hill on which the 
 house stands, we reached the front court, where the queen's 
 band, in scarlet uniform (apparently English), was stationed 
 beneath the veranda. On entering, I was received by a 
 number of servants dressed in a sort of livery, consisting 
 of blue jackets bordered with red. I was politely received 
 by the owner of the house, a number of officers, and other 
 company, among whom were M. Laborde and the Catholic 
 priest with whom I had breakfasted. When dinner was 
 announced, we were shown to our respective places, which 
 were designated by papers bearing our names placed on 
 the table. Mine was on the left hand of the chief officer, 
 and M. Laborde's was immediately opposite. 
 
 The room was large and lofty, furnished with looking- 
 glasses and other articles of European or Asiatic manufac- 
 ture, having a large side-board at one end. The table was 
 splendidly furnished with porcelain vases filled with arti- 
 ficial flowers, and silver vases the size of wine-coolers along 
 the centre. The covered dishes, spoons, and forks were all 
 silver ; the dishes as well as the vases being of native man- 
 ufacture, after English patterns, and remarkably well exe- 
 cuted. On all these articles, as well as on the handles of 
 the knives, a crown and a bird, the crest of the Hovas, 
 were engraved. 
 
 As soon as all were seated, my friend the secretary, who 
 sat next me, intimated in English that, as I was a stranger, 
 and the queen's guest, I should now propose her majesty's 
 health, and, on a sign from one of the attendants, the band 
 in the veranda played the Malagasy " God save the Queen." 
 
 The dinner commenced with soup, after which an almost 
 endless variety of viands were served. There must have
 
 424 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. xiv. 
 
 been upward of thirty different dishes handed round in 
 succession : beef in every form, poultry, game, made dishes 
 in great variety, with pastry, all exceedingly well cooked, 
 especially the rice, and the rolls of bread. There was not 
 much wine on the table, the drinking was very moderate, 
 and there were but few toasts. The utmost propriety char- 
 acterized the deportment of all present; although there 
 were many of the younger members of the aristocracy at 
 the table, the entertainment was more lively, and much less 
 formal, than some at which I had been present in the coun- 
 try. After the dessert, tea was served in small coffee-cups, 
 perhaps instead of coffee, from the supposed preference of 
 the English for tea. 
 
 After the dinner, the chief officer rose, and delivered a 
 speech expressive of the good-feeling and hospitality of the 
 Queen of Madagascar toward the subjects of other govern- 
 ments, strangers from across the sea, visiting her country. 
 This was said in allusion to my presence among them ; and 
 then, stating that it had been the wish of the queen and 
 the Malagasy government to preserve friendship with all 
 foreign nations, he asked why it was that they were so fre- 
 quently disturbed by reports that the French were coming 
 to take their country. He said that reports to that effect 
 had been recently brought, and were now in circulation 
 among the people ; and then, appealing to me as recently 
 from Europe, he asked if I knew whether these reports 
 were true, and, if so, why was it that the Malagasy were to 
 be attacked ? 
 
 Appealed to so directly, I could not decline offering a 
 few words on the subject; and after thanking the queen 
 for the kind attention and hospitality I had experienced, 
 and observing that the cultivation of peaceable and friendly 
 feelings among nations, and the increase of commercial and 
 other intercourse between the people of different countries, 
 was far more conducive to the prosperity of all, than any
 
 CHAP. xiv. UNFRIENDLY KEPORTS FROM EUROPE. 425 
 
 other course; and that the feelings of good-will toward 
 Madagascar cherished in England had been so fully recip- 
 rocated by the consideration and kindness I had received 
 since my arrival, and that I trusted corresponding senti- 
 ments were cherished by the French, I said that the exist- 
 ing friendship and union between England and France 
 would, it was most ardently hoped, cause these two great 
 nations to combine together to show respect and friendship 
 toward other nations, and thus promote the prosperity of 
 all. That as to the intentions of the French toward Mada- 
 gascar, I could not possibly know any thing ; that in some 
 of the newspapers which I had seen in England there had 
 been statements about a hostile expedition to be sent from 
 France against Madagascar, but whether there was any 
 foundation or not for such statements I could not say, but 
 hoped and believed that time would prove them to be mere 
 unfounded rumors. The only probable cause that I had 
 heard assigned was the destruction of a settlement recently 
 formed by some Frenchmen on the northwest coast of 
 Madagascar. 
 
 The chief said they much desired friendly and commer- 
 cial relations with all nations ; and, in reference to the de- 
 struction of the settlement, he observed that some French- 
 men connected with Mauritius, or the Island of Bourbon, 
 had come and established themselves in their country with- 
 out permission from the government ; had brought a num- 
 ber of men from Mozambique, had cut down timber, had 
 built a fort, and had mounted cannon. That they had been 
 told by the queen's officer who commanded at the nearest 
 military station, that it was not permitted to foreigners to 
 come and settle in the country without permission of the 
 government, and that they must depart. That when they 
 had refused to do so, the officer had reported the same to 
 the queen, and she had then sent the force by which the 
 settlement had been destroyed. Then, appealing to me a
 
 426 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. xiv. 
 
 second time, he said, " The queen is the sole sovereign of 
 Madagascar, and is it right that the people of England, or 
 of France, or any other country, should come to take pos- 
 session of her country without her permission ? What do 
 you think about that? What would be done to persons 
 who should so act in any other country ?" 
 
 In answer to his appeal, I said I did not know what 
 might be done in other countries, but if any of the Mala- 
 gasy or other persons were to land in England, and were 
 to attempt to take possession of any of the land or prop- 
 erty there, they would soon find themselves in the hands 
 of the police. With regard to Madagascar, I observed that 
 I had always understood, from such information as I had 
 gathered from documents published on the subject, that 
 whatever rights the French might have possessed or exer- 
 cised in Madagascar previous to 1810 had been transferred 
 to the English by the changes of war, which at that time 
 gave the Islands of Mauritius and Bourbon, with all their 
 dependencies, to the English, who had soon afterward taken 
 possession of all French establishments in Madagascar ; that 
 the English had given back the Island of Bourbon to the 
 French in 1815, and had subsequently surrendered, by 
 treaty with Radama, all their possessions in Madagascar to 
 him ; and that whatever Eadama possessed had descended 
 to the present sovereign. 
 
 M. Laborde then rose, and said that what I had stated 
 was true with regard to the rumors of a hostile fleet. The} r 
 were only statements in the newspapers, and were not au- 
 thorized ; also, that if any persons were to land in France 
 or England they would be treated as I had described, if not 
 worse; and that if any English or French came and set- 
 tled in Madagascar without leave, the Malagasy should cut 
 them to pieces. 
 
 The chief officer again rose and said the Queen of Mada- 
 gascar desired to be friendly with all foreign nations ; that
 
 CHAP. xiv. APPLICATIONS FOR MEDICAL AID. 427 
 
 she regarded none as her enemies ; and wished to maintain 
 friendly intercourse with the people of all countries. 
 
 Soon afterward the conversation ended, and the company 
 separated. As we went out M. Laborde, accompanied by 
 his son and the priest, took my arm in his and led the way 
 to my palanquin, where we parted with mutual salutations. 
 
 Without any pretension to a knowledge of medicine be- 
 yond such as had been acquired from books, by a few 
 months' attendance at a colonial dispensary, and nearly ten 
 years' residence in a place where there was no European 
 medical practitioner, even to meet the requirements of my 
 own family, I had taken out with me to Madagascar a small 
 quantity of the most common and useful medicines, and 
 had often found them very acceptable to the foreigners as 
 well as the natives. The examiners at the native custom- 
 house had opened the case containing these, and also my 
 photographic chemicals; and, as every thing of the kind 
 was supposed to be medicine, my supply was considered to 
 be abundant, and applications were proportionately fre- 
 quent. Madagascar appears to be rich in medicinal plants. 
 The natives are acquainted with the properties of many ; 
 but they are very anxious to obtain European medicine, and 
 even send occasionally to Mauritius for a supply. Since my 
 arrival at the capital applications for medicine had been nu- 
 merous ; and before sunrise one morning a note was brought 
 while I was dressing, informing me that the bearer was an 
 officer of rank, and would be glad if I could render him any 
 medical assistance. He himself was outside in his palan- 
 quin. In a short time he entered, accompanied by two 
 chiefs and followed by attendants. I found he had been 
 one of the youths placed by Radama on board English 
 ships of war to learn seamanship, and that he had been sev- 
 eral years in a vessel commanded by Commodore Nourse. 
 He spoke much of the life he had led on board the ships. 
 I found him suffering from extensive sores in the lower
 
 428 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. xiv. 
 
 limbs, to which I applied dressings and bandages, etc. Aft- 
 er remaining with me two or three hours he returned, but 
 repeated his visit in a few days. 
 
 I had not yet ventured to make any use of my photo- 
 graphic apparatus, not feeling quite sure how it might be 
 regarded; but on this day a note came from an officer of 
 the palace saying that the prince wished to have his like- 
 ness taken, and would come for that purpose on the follow- 
 ing morning. As I had my dark room to arrange, camera 
 to unpack, and chemicals to prepare, I could not possibly 
 be ready by 'the next morning; and wrote to say that I 
 should be happy to take the likeness of the prince as soon 
 as my materials were ready. 
 
 I had a succession of visitors throughout the day ; and 
 about seven o'clock in the evening, as I was sitting in my 
 inner room, the young chief who had accompanied me from 
 Tamatave came in to say that a sick person with some 
 friends had come to see me. I said, "Ask them to come 
 in." When the door opened they brought in a palanquin, 
 which they placed on the table in the outer room, and, aft- 
 er removing the covering, raised up a thin, feeble, gasping 
 woman, her husband, relatives, and attendants, to the num- 
 ber of nineteen, all standing round. Her husband stated 
 that all the native medicines deemed likely to be of any 
 service had been resorted to in vain, and the patient was so 
 feeble as to be unable to sit up, and could scarcely take any 
 food. I did not expect much benefit would result from anv 
 medicine I could give ; but I spoke kindly to the sufferer 
 and her friends, and promised such medicine as I thought 
 most likely to afford relief. The poor invalid expressed 
 her great pleasure at having seen me ; and said she should 
 be grateful if it should please God to restore her to health. 
 After conversing some time the feeble sufferer was gently 
 laid down in the palanquin by her female friends, and care- 
 fully covered over, when the bearers came in, took up
 
 CHAP. xiv. AFFECTING CASES OF SICKNESS. 429 
 
 their burden, and, followed by the husband and friends, 
 carried her back to her home, which I was told was at 
 some distance. 
 
 As soon as I was up the next morning I was asked to 
 go and see a number of sick persons from a distance, who 
 were in an adjacent house. I found a whole family the 
 mother with an infant in her arms, and three other children 
 all suffering from what seemed to be a severe attack of 
 influenza. When I had spoken to the mother, the father 
 asked me if I could afford any relief to a young woman who 
 had come with her, who had been struck by lightning and 
 was deaf. He then pointed to another in the company who, 
 he said, was an orphan, and a martyr's child. While en- 
 gaged with this little company of sufferers, I was sent for to 
 my own house, where I found an officer from the palace, 
 who asked for some medicine for himself and his children, 
 and who also told me that the queen was waiting for what 
 the diviners should declare to be a lucky day, in order to 
 receive the presents I had brought. I mentioned my want 
 of a table for photographic purposes, and in the course of 
 the afternoon one was sent from the prince's establishment ; 
 and a right royal table it was so large and heavy as only 
 with difficulty to be got into the house. 
 
 Among my visitors in the evening were a chief and one 
 of his companions, who had been during the past year to 
 Ibali. He stated that, in consequence of reports of a foreign 
 teacher being at Ibali, a place on the western coast of Mad- 
 agascar, a letter had been written stating that they had heard 
 of his arrival, but did not know whether he was English, or 
 French, or American, and that the bearer of the letter had 
 come to see him. My visitor, accompanied by five others, 
 had undertaken to convey this letter. Their equipment 
 consisted of two guns with ammunition, a spade to dig up 
 roots with, a knife or hatchet, with beads and buttons, to 
 barter for provisions on their way. After journeying through
 
 430 VISITS TO MADAGASCAE. CHAP. xiv. 
 
 forests and swamps, over rivers and mountains, sometimes 
 almost famished for want of food, they approached the west- 
 ern coast. There they were met by a party of Sakalavas, 
 the people of the country, who seized them, plundered them 
 of their guns, etc., stripped them of their clothes, and then 
 sold three or four of them as slaves to an Arab trader who 
 was on the coast in a small vessel. From him they were 
 transferred to the French authorities at Nosibe, an island 
 on the northwest coast of Madagascar, whence they were 
 to be sent to Bourbon to be engaged as free laborers for 
 five years. 
 
 Before leaving, however, the letter of which they were 
 the bearers had come to the knowledge of the French au- 
 thorities, who, in consequence, kept these men at Nosibe, 
 and sent other men taken out of the prison to Bourbon in 
 their stead. At Nosibe they were treated with great kind- 
 ness by the Roman Catholic priests, who took them to their 
 places of worship and endeavored to instruct them in the 
 Roman Catholic religion. Afterward they sent them to 
 Bourbon, where the priests showed them much attention, 
 and endeavored to induce them to regard their religion with 
 favor. They were afterward sent to the island of St. Mary's, 
 on the east coast, also occupied by the French; whence 
 they proceeded to the main land, and then hastened up to 
 the capital. 
 
 I was deeply interested in the account which the chief 
 gave me of many of the incidents of the journey, of the 
 former part of which he subsequently furnished me with an 
 account in writing. He spoke of the uniform kindness they 
 had received at Bourbon, and of the endeavors made to in- 
 duce them to stay. But they did not appear to have been 
 at all inclined to adopt the religion of the people. In a 
 letter which some of the natives wrote, after repeated con- 
 versations with those of their countrymen who had been in 
 Bourbon, they said, " It seemed as if the Pope stood (in
 
 CHAP. xiv. VISIT FROM A SUPERIOR OFFICER. 431 
 
 authority) in the place of God, and that the priest forgave 
 sins. And as to the images, etc., before which they pros- 
 trated themselves, it was like the sampy or idols of our own 
 country." This appeared to be the impression which the re- 
 ports of the travelers had made on their minds. However 
 much I might deem the teaching of the Roman Catholic 
 priests to be erroneous, and however the Eomish system 
 might, in my apprehension, tend to hinder rather than help 
 the people in their endeavors after knowledge, improvement, 
 freedom, and expansion of thought, as well as social eleva- 
 tion, I could not disapprove of the endeavors of the priests 
 to make the strangers acquainted with their creed and modes 
 of worship, but was not surprised to find that it had not 
 commended itself to their judgment and approval. 
 
 In the evening I received a visit from one of the highest 
 officers in the government. He was a remarkably hand- 
 some man. His features were small and quite European, 
 though his complexion was almost black. He was splen- 
 didly dressed, and accompanied by two aids-de-camp, also 
 fine, noble-looking men. After a long and interesting con- 
 versation, my sensible and really intelligent visitors took 
 their leave. 
 
 I then resumed my preparations for taking the likeness 
 of the prince, who had sent to inform me that he should 
 come in the morning. I had finished all except adding the 
 acetic acid to the developing solution, and the rectifying 
 of the bath ; but no acetic acid could I find. The case of 
 chemicals put up by Messrs. Hopkins and Williams was 
 examined again, and all the bottles taken out: many that 
 I seemed likely to want, and some things that I never 
 seemed likely to want, were there, but neither acetic acid 
 nor any other fluid acid. Every other box or case in 
 which it was even likely to be was examined, but with no 
 better success, and about midnight I gave up the search, 
 and wrote a note to be taken by a friend to the prince at
 
 432 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. xiv. 
 
 daybreak, to say I could not possibly take his portrait in 
 the morning. I then examined all my invoices, and to my 
 dismay found no acetic acid there. My friend Mr. Fenton 
 had assisted me in making out the list, and I had the most 
 distinct remembrance of speaking about it at the time ; but 
 how it came to be omitted is still a mystery. My perplex- 
 ity was great ; and I am sure all photographers who have 
 been in similar circumstances of destitution, in a county 
 where there were no chemists' shops, and no fellow-pho- 
 tographers of whom to borrow, will be able fully to sympa- 
 thize with me. 
 
 I had scarcely finished breakfast when the inquiry I had 
 anticipated came from the queen's secretary when could 
 I take the likeness of the prince ? I replied, as soon as I 
 had finished making the "strong water," one of the ingre- 
 dients for which I had not yet found. The secretary was 
 accompanied by his wife and three children, for whom he 
 solicited some medicine. Then I had a note from the son 
 of one of the princes, informing me of his illness and ask- 
 ing for medicine. The rest of the day was comparatively 
 quiet. 
 
 On Monday, August 15th, I was again among the chem- 
 icals by daybreak, but with no better success ; gallic and 
 pyrogallic acids were all I could find. I sent my servant 
 to the market to buy a quantity of the sourest Malagasy 
 limes he could find, and took some tartaric acid, not very 
 pure, out of my medicine-chest. While I was at breakfast 
 four officers arrived, followed by a number of attendants 
 bearing baskets of eggs, poultry, and rice, as a present from 
 the queen, for which I expressed my grateful acknowledg- 
 ments; when the officers returned, and I proceeded with 
 my experiments. 
 
 Having received, on the previous day, an mtinlation 
 that the queen would send for the presents to-day, I had 
 made all ready ; and about noon the officers came from the
 
 CHAP. xiv. ACCEPTABLE PKESENTS TO THE QUEEN. 433 
 
 palace to take them to the queen. I had previously ar- 
 ranged them, and made out lists of all the articles. I re- 
 peated what I had already stated to the officers, that I had 
 not the treasure of the merchants who sometimes visited 
 the capital, and regretted that my presents were so insig- 
 nificant ; but desired to offer what I had brought as express- 
 ive of my grateful sense of the kind reception I had met 
 with, and a trifling memorial of my visit. I then handed 
 to them a parcel containing jewelry from his excellency 
 the Governor of Mauritius, and afterward delivered to 
 them the boxes containing my presents for the queen, the 
 prince, and the princess, which were to be taken to the 
 palace. Those for the chiefs were to be taken to their own 
 houses. 
 
 Among my presents to the queen was a large framed en- 
 graving of our own gracious sovereign, and of his royal 
 highness the Prince Consort, together with a large colored 
 print of Windsor Castle, also in a gilt frame. I had heard 
 that there were good-sized plates of the portraits of the Em- 
 peror and the Empress of the French in the palace, and the 
 officers when they saw the portraits of Queen Victoria and 
 the Prince Consort said they thought they would be accept- 
 able to their queen. The presents for the prince royal and 
 the princess were arranged separately. When the officers 
 had ascertained that the articles accorded with the lists, 
 their own attendants and two of my men carried them to 
 the palace. Among the presents were a number of arti- 
 cles which had been kindly contributed by my friends at 
 home, and though in many instances of simple and inex- 
 pensive material, their value was enhanced by the beauti- 
 ful forms into which they had been wrought by skillful and 
 industrious hands. 
 
 As soon as the officers had left me, I returned to my ex- 
 periments, having added to my other acids a bottle of weak 
 vinegar. About four o'clock M. Laborde and two officers 
 
 E E
 
 434 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. xiv. 
 
 of the palace arrived. The officers had been sent by the 
 queen to invite me to see a bull-fight, in the court-yard of 
 the palace, that afternoon. I acknowledged the kindness of 
 her majesty in inviting me, but begged to be excused. At 
 sunset three officers came from the queen, to thank me for 
 the presents from the governor of Mauritius, and those from 
 myself. They said the queen was much pleased with the 
 portraits. They also brought a similar message from the 
 prince and princess. "When they returned, I repeated my 
 apology for not going to see the bull-fight. 
 
 Soon after they were gone another party of visitors were 
 announced. When they entered, a respectable matronly- 
 looking woman said she had been waiting for an opportu- 
 nity of seeing me ever since my arrival, to ask if I had any 
 medicine I could give her for her son, now seventeen years 
 of age, who had been afflicted with leprosy five years. She 
 addfcd that she had tried every kind of native medicine, but 
 in vain. I told her I sympathized with her in the affliction, 
 but feared I had no medicine that would cure that inveter- 
 ate disease. She wept much, and her husband was also 
 greatly affected, saying, " Then there is no remedy." At 
 length she said she must hope in the goodness of God, and 
 be grateful that her other three children were free. She 
 left me soon afterward ; and in the evening the queen's sec- 
 retary sent for the presents for the other chiefs. 
 
 Before making my appearance the next morning, one of * 
 my patients was waiting outside in his palanquin ; yet all 
 the time I could secure I employed in trying, by experi- 
 ments, to find a substitute for the missing acid. I succeed- 
 ed best with the vinegar ; with tartaric acid I only obtained 
 a faint reddish image. 
 
 Early the following morning an aid-de-camp of the prince 
 came to know when I should be ready to take the likeness. 
 I took him into the room to see the camera and the chemi- 
 cals, etc., and told him that one bottle was missing, but that
 
 CHAP. xiv. INVITATION TO A FETE AT THE PALACE. 435 
 
 as soon as I was ready I would inform the prince. After 
 breakfast the queen's secretary came to let me' know that 
 there would be a ball or dance, in the presence of the queen, 
 on the following day, and that I was invited to be present. 
 He said the queen was pleased with my visit; and he in- 
 quired when I should begin with the likenesses, as both the 
 prince and princess proposed to come on Friday, and he 
 hoped I should be ready then. 
 
 While we were talking one of the chief officers of the 
 palace came and asked toe to go and see his wife, who was 
 an invalid. I accompanied him to his residence, a nice 
 comfortable two-storied house built of wood, with sleeping- 
 rooms up stairs. Soon after our arrival his wife, attended 
 by a female domestic, came down stairs into the pleasant, 
 neatly-furnished room in which we were waiting. After a 
 short conversation I said I thought I had some medicine 
 that would afford her relief; and, as the chief returned with 
 me, I gave him a supply for her use. The friends who vis- 
 ited me in the evening were equally astonished and de- 
 lighted with this chief's coming to me. Later in the day 
 he brought me a turtle as a present, and said he would 
 come and live in a house very near, in order that I might 
 see his wife often. 
 
 On Thursday, September 18th, I was early at work with 
 my camera, but was obliged to leave off, as I expected a 
 messenger from the palace. Soon after twelve I was sent 
 for, and followed the messenger. The road to the palace 
 was literally thronged, and the walls of the inclosures round 
 the houses were surmounted by the heads and shoulders of 
 people standing inside, two or three deep, chiefly of women 
 in holiday costume. The roofs of the buildings overlook- 
 ing the palace yard were also thronged with spectators. 
 
 All the chiefs assembled on this occasion were in Arabic 
 costume, wearing long loose robes of green, yellow, white, 
 or red ; and turbans and sashes of every variety of color,
 
 436 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR CHAP. xiv. 
 
 with a profusion of jewelry. M. Laborde and his son were 
 dressed in scarlet and orange dresses, with immense turbans 
 to match, and slippers turned up, with pointed toes. They 
 were accompanied by the priest and two Frenchmen who 
 had recently come from Tamatave to thank the queen for 
 the respect shown to the memory of the late M. de Las- 
 telle. After waiting a short time on the outside we entered 
 the large court before the palace, when the band played the 
 national air, and the soldiers presented arms. The queen 
 and her court, sixty or seventy persons, occupied the large 
 open veranda or balcony in the centre of the palace. The 
 queen sat beneath the large scarlet umbrella and wore the 
 same lamba as on my former visit to the palace, but a 
 smaller, lighter crown, something like a coronet of gold on 
 a scarlet velvet cap. All the members of the court were 
 in Arab costume. The prince wore an orange-colored silk 
 robe, and a green silk turban, with a gold crescent in the 
 centre. 
 
 The Frenchmen and myself were directed to chairs on 
 the left in the shade ; and beyond the seats we occupied, 
 on the same side, sat a large number of native women. 
 The officers were seated along immediately in front of the 
 queen, and a number of the members of the court sat on the 
 right opposite to us. The queen's band and the prince's 
 band were ranged on the right side of the square, beyond 
 the members of the court. Behind them sat a large com- 
 pany of singing women, in front of whom stood three or 
 four men blowing the turbo, or trumpet shell, and making 
 a kind of bass to the women's soft and monotonous music 
 in singing. The farther end of the court was filled with 
 spectators, and the outside beyond was crowded with lines 
 of lookers-on standing one above the other. 
 
 The dancing was commenced by the Sakalavas, inhabi- 
 tants of the western parts of the island. The Sakalava band 
 of native instruments included a large drum hollowed out
 
 CHAP. xiv. THE SAKALAVA WAR-DANCE. 437 
 
 of a solid piece of wood, with several smaller ones, and tom- 
 toms or tambourines, apparently of Asiatic origin, the drum 
 exactly resembling those I had seen in Ceylon. Four men 
 arrayed as warriors, wearing singularly-shaped scarlet caps, 
 having a broad "scarlet lappet hanging down behind, with 
 muskets in their hands, and powder-horns slung at their 
 sides, and the Malagasy ornament or charm of silver croco- 
 diles' teeth fastened in front of their girdles or sashes, fol- 
 lowed this band, led by a sort of chief, whose business seem- 
 ed to be to indicate the movements of the dance. The danc- 
 ers were tall, light-made men. Commencing their perform- 
 ance as soon as they entered the court, they continued pass- 
 ing from side to side of the open space in the centre, making 
 a sort of zigzag course until they came immediately in front 
 of the queen. The musicians then gave three or four loud 
 strokes on the large drum, while the dancers bowed before 
 her majesty, and then retired to the side. 
 
 These were followed by four or five other sets of Saka- 
 lava dancers of four each, who, entering by the gate, danced 
 along, each party with a different figure or step, until they 
 came before the queen, when they bowed and retired. In 
 addition to the musket in the right hand, one or two of the 
 sets held a silk handkerchief or small scarf in the left. Their 
 movements were light and easy ; but for the most part meas- 
 ured and slow, except in those passages which appeared de- 
 signed to represent the more exciting movements of battle, 
 the assault, the strife, the pursuit, and the triumph. There 
 was no shouting, and even these movements, though the 
 muskets were sometimes thrown up in the air and caught 
 as they fell, were restrained and moderate, according but 
 little with the ideas we are accustomed to associate with the 
 war-dance of the savage ; and had any caterer for public 
 amusement in Europe been present, the Sakalava waltz 
 might perhaps have been transferred to more civilized as- 
 semblies.
 
 438 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. xiv. 
 
 After the Sakalava dance, about a hundred females, 
 connected, as I inferred, from their air, their apparel, and 
 the careful and elaborate dressing of their hair, with the 
 officers and other respectable families of the capital, entered 
 the open space. They ranged themselves three abreast and 
 facing the queen, in a sort of open column. The line or 
 column consisted of thirty-four successive threes. As soon 
 as they were in position, they slipped the lambas or scarfs 
 from their shoulders down to their waists, and thus exhib- 
 ited their rich velvet, satin, silk, and muslin dresses, many 
 of them trimmed about the body and sleeves with gold. The 
 queen's band commenced a slow soft native tune. A danc- 
 ing-master at the head of the column, and facing the queen, 
 signaled the movements, and the dancing commenced if 
 dancing it could be called in which the feet covered by the 
 flowing lamba appeared scarcely to move, for each dancer 
 remained on the same spot, and the arms chiefly answered 
 in easy and graceful motion to the measure of the music. 
 There was not a really fair face among them, though none 
 were very dark. The figure and countenance of many were 
 more finely formed than those of lower grade, and numbers 
 of them might have been termed handsome. The music 
 consisted entirely of original native tunes remarkably soft 
 and simple. After two or three dances they bowed to the 
 sovereign and retired. Such were the native dances of the 
 day. 
 
 Five very juvenile couples, dressed in silk and muslin, 
 now came forward. They were the children of the high 
 officers of the government, and danced exceedingly well in 
 the European style, to European tunes. They also made 
 their bow to the queen, and then retired. 
 
 Eight couples of young men and women then rose from 
 the court circle and came to the centre. The ladies were 
 gorgeously attired in silk and satin, with a profusion of head 
 ornaments, pearls and other necklaces, and bracelets. The
 
 CHAP. xiv. DANCING OF THE YOUNG NOBLES. 430 
 
 men all wore silk Spanish, dresses, short jackets with slashed 
 sleeves, silk trowsers, slashed, and shoes to match, and em- 
 broidered caps adorned with ostrich feathers. The son of 
 Eadama's sister, a fine young man about twenty-five, and 
 the daughter of Prince Eamonja were the first couple, and 
 led the dance. Dancing seemed to be grave work with them 
 all. I rarely saw more than a social smile, and should think 
 scarcely a dozen words were exchanged by the dancers, who, 
 while dancing, seemed to be wholly absorbed with the figure 
 and the step. The music was European, and so were the 
 dances. 
 
 Soon after these had bowed to the queen and resumed 
 their seats, seven couples of the younger members of the 
 royal and noble families came forward. Their ages might 
 range between fifteen and eighteen. The son of Prince Kam- 
 boasalama, the handsomest youth I had seen, was splendidly 
 dressed in a suit of scarlet and gold, with a cap of the same, 
 and ostrich-plume. The son of the proprietor of the house 
 in which the queen had given her dinner and an interesting- 
 looking young girl led off the dance. The youth was 
 dressed in jacket and pantaloons of green velvet studded 
 with gold, over which hung a mantle of purple velvet em- 
 broidered with a deep gold border. His partner also wore 
 a dress of purple velvet with gold embroidery. The dress 
 of the remaining couples was equally rich and splendid. 
 
 The Frenchmen seemed to be highly gratified with the 
 gorgeous spectacle, which continued until nearly four 
 o'clock ; when the dancing ceased and the court retired. 
 When the nobles had nearly all left the balcony, the prince 
 rose and led his mother, who seemed glad of the support of 
 his arm, into the palace ; while we, mingling with the crowd 
 of officers and guests moving toward the gate, bowed and 
 departed. 
 
 It was a scene which it was perhaps well to witness once 
 in a lifetime. It appeared something like the reality of
 
 440 . 'VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. xiv. 
 
 what the gorgeous and imposing pageants of our theatres 
 are reported to represent ; destitute, indeed, of the flood of 
 light, and all those rich and gay accompaniments with which 
 artistic skill and taste surround such exhibitions, but en- 
 circled by the grander scenery of nature, accompanied by a 
 cloudless sky, and illuminated by a tropic sun. The whole 
 seemed to belong to regions resembling those 
 
 "Where the gorgeous East with richest hand 
 Showers on her kings barbaric pearls and gold." 
 
 The men and women were not actors ; their decorations 
 were not tinsel. It seemed their highest style of dress and 
 most exalted entertainment; yet I felt a sort of regret as I 
 gazed on the manly forms, the bold and open foreheads, 
 the quick, keen, glancing eyes of the noble youths before 
 me, and thought of what, with education, they might have 
 achieved ; and if the time and the place had been suitable 
 for the expression of opinion on the spectacle I had wit- 
 nessed, I might perhaps have said that proficiency in dancing 
 was not the highest excellence of princes, and that, without 
 discarding amusement, their constant aim should be to learn 
 how nations are made great. More than once I longed for 
 the .camera, that I might have transmitted to my port-folio 
 some of the splendid and beautiful groups I had' seen.
 
 CHAP. xv. VISIT FROM THE PlilNCE. 441 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 Visit from the Prince. Letter to the Queen. Message and Presents from 
 the Queen. Eegrets on account of my approaching Departure. Visits 
 to the Sick. Arrangements of the native Dwellings. Social Affec- 
 tions. Portrait of the Prince. Conversations with the Prince. Aston- 
 ishment and Delight of the Prince and Princess with the Photographic 
 Process. Breakfast with the Prince and Princess. Conversation. 
 Portraits of Members of the Malagasy Court. Proposal of the Prince 
 and Princess and their Friends to spend the last Evening of my Stay in 
 the Capital at my House. The Prince's Band. Interesting Conversa- 
 tion. Why the People of England love their Queen. Security of God's 
 Protection. Desire of the Youth of the Country after Knowledge. 
 Possibility of a future* College in the Capital. Departure of the Guests. 
 Intercourse with beloved Friends. Bearers provided by the Queen. 
 Conversation and refined Attention of the Prince. Departure from the 
 Capital accompanied by the Prince and Nobles. Affecting Spectacle of 
 a Prisoner. Parting with the Prince and his Friends. Reflections on 
 the Visit. Recent Events. Sufferings and Constaacy of the Christians. 
 Martyrdom in 1849. Recollections of the Prince. Estimate of his 
 Character. 
 
 AFTER witnessing this novel and exciting spectacle I no 
 sooner reached my own residence than, slipping on my 
 blouse, I began experimentalizing again, this time with a 
 bottle of vinegar which the prince had sent me in the 
 morning, as he understood I wanted acid: but the light 
 was too far gone before I could make a fair trial. Appli- 
 cations for medicine and visits from friends occupied the 
 evening. 
 
 Early in the morning I resumed my occupations, but 
 failed in compounding a good developing mixture. While 
 I 4 was employed in this manner the prince paid me a visit, 
 he was followed soon afterward by the queen's secretary. 
 They examined the camera and the different parts of the
 
 442 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. xv. 
 
 apparatus with much attention and interest. After which 
 they sat down with me to my frugal breakfast, at which 
 nothing appeared more palatable to my guests than some 
 slices of English ham. Our meal being concluded we had 
 a long and grave conversation, in the course of which the 
 approaching termination of the period to which my visit 
 was to extend was adverted to, and, as it seemed desirable 
 that my stay should be prolonged through the bad season, 
 I wrote a letter to the queen, stating my apprehension of 
 the fever in the lower country, the healthy season being 
 now past, and asking, on that account, permission to pro- 
 long my visit to nine months, viz., until the good season of 
 the following year. 
 
 During the forenoon my guests left me, and, according 
 to their suggestions, I afterward sent my letter to the 
 prince, as they said this was a lucky day. About an hour 
 afterward some officers came from the palace to say that 
 the queen had received my letter, and that she thought the 
 time she had mentioned was sufficient for a visit ; and ap- 
 peared to wish to know whether I had any other objects or 
 reasons for desiring to prolong my stay. I assigned no oth- 
 er reason than the unhealthiness of the season and the dan- 
 ger of fever, and the officers departed. In little more than 
 an hour they returned, and stated that the queen desired 
 them to say she was much pleased with my visit, and with 
 the message I had brought, and that as the time fixed for 
 the duration of my visit had nearly expired it was best that 
 I should return as near that time as I could arrange my 
 packages. The officers asked if eight days would be suffi- 
 cient. They then presented me with a number of beauti- 
 ful silk and other lambas from the queen, and also from 
 the prince and princess ; and said the queen would provide 
 bearers for my palanquin, and also for my packages, when 
 I was ready ; and that orders would be sent to the Govern- 
 or of Tamatave to give me ten oxen as a present from the
 
 CHAP. xv. REGRETS ON ACCOUNT OF MY DEPARTURE. 443 
 
 queen to myself, and twenty oxen as a present to the Gov- 
 
 ' ernor of Mauritius. I then begged to thank her majesty 
 
 for her kind attentions and hospitality and the presents she 
 
 had given me, and said I hoped to be ready in eight days. 
 
 It was intimated that had I asked for a shorter time it 
 might have been approved, as the queen had directed that 
 Mr. Cameron should be told, in answer to his letter from 
 the Cape, that he might stay six months ; but I had asked 
 to extend my visit to ten months. I said I should be un- 
 willing to return in the midst of the fever season, and 
 therefore thought it more frank to ask at once for the peri- 
 od during which I wished to stay, as I would rather leave 
 now than at any intermediate time. The officers then left. 
 I knew that the wife of the chief officer had experienced 
 relief from her sufferings after the medicine I had given 
 her, so that I was not surprised at the regret he seemed to 
 feel on account of the message he had to deliver. 
 
 I had a long and deeply-affecting conversation with the 
 friends who visited me in the evening. The prospect of 
 my approaching departure was to them exceedingly pain- 
 ful ; but they expressed themselves grateful for the inter- 
 course we had held, and promised to give increased dili- 
 gence to complete, before my departure, some accounts of 
 the principal events which have occurred among them dur- 
 ing the last twenty years. Many of them urged important 
 inquiries respecting their future progress ; and the grief of 
 all at the prospect of my departure was truly distressing. 
 I endeavored to encourage them, and offered such advice 
 as seemed best suited to their peculiar circumstances. 
 
 The next day I employed myself, when not occupied 
 with visitors and applicants for medicine, in experiments ; 
 and in the afternoon, after adding full one third part of the 
 vinegar to the ordinary pyrogallic mixture, I succeeded' in 
 getting a tolerably good negative of the young chief who 
 had accompanied me from Tamatave. I also received a
 
 Ui VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. xv. 
 
 note saying that the prince and princess would visit me on 
 Monday. The evening was occupied with a succession of 
 visitors, who generally came in companies of from nine to 
 twelve persons, frequently accompanied by their children. 
 Many of the women wept when they took leave of me ; and 
 very late it was before I found myself alone. 
 
 At midnight I had been called out of bed to give med- 
 icine to an aid-de-camp of the prince ; and early in the 
 morning an officer of the palace came to request me to visit 
 an aid-de-camp of the commander-in-chief. I went with 
 the officer, who was saluted with great respect as we passed 
 along, and on reaching the house, a respectable building, 
 we passed a female slave spinning cotton as she watched at 
 the foot of the stairs, and ascended to the sick man's cham- 
 ber. The young man was lying on a nice clean bed near 
 an open window, a friend supporting his raised-up head, 
 and his young wife wiping the perspiration from his tem- 
 ples; while his mother and a number of friends sat around. 
 The young man was suffering great pain from rheumatic 
 fever, and from the effects of some very powerful native 
 medicine which he had taken. After talking with him 
 some time, through a kind and sympathizing interpreter, a 
 truly good man, we received a visit from the chief whose 
 maladies I had been for some time dressing and bandaging 
 at intervals. I told the young man I would send him 
 some medicine, and then went with one of the chief officers 
 of the palace to visit his wife, who had been much better 
 after taking the medicine I had given. I then went to an- 
 other part of the capital to see the mother of two young 
 officers of the palace, and to show the attendants how to 
 dress a blister which I had applied on the previous day. 
 The family seemed rejoiced as they told me their mother 
 felt greatly relieved. I returned to breakfast, which I had 
 scarcely finished when the son of one of the chief judges 
 came to ask me to go and see his mother. I walked with
 
 CHAP. xv. INTERIOR OF THE NATIVE HOUSES. 445 
 
 him to another part of the city, and he returned with me 
 for some medicine for the patient. 
 
 My visits to the sick have given me peculiar opportuni- 
 ties of becoming acquainted with the social condition of the 
 people, and I have been much impressed with the comfort 
 and convenience of their dwellings, the separation and se- 
 clusion of their sleeping-rooms, and the appropriate and 
 sometimes even elegant manner in which they are fur- 
 nished. I believe most of the natives still sit on the ground 
 at their meals, but there is generally a table and chairs in 
 the open room of the house. Then in the sleeping-rooms, 
 though some of the sleeping-places consist of a number of 
 finely-woven mats laid on the floor, there was generally a 
 neat four-post bedstead, with a bed at the end of the room 
 opposite the window, the bed and the window being both 
 screened by white muslin curtains. A table, with some- 
 times white jugs, cups and saucers, and glasses upon it, and 
 a looking-glass over it, generally occupies one side of the 
 room, and chairs and perhaps trunks the other, besides many 
 other little conveniences which I did not expect to see. 
 But more pleasing still was the kind, social, and affection- 
 ate feeling which the several members of the family mani- 
 fested toward each other, in those instances which came un- 
 der my notice. The sons, even when young men, seemed 
 to cherish great affection for their mothers, and to treat 
 them with marked attention and respect. This is a very 
 general feeling, to which expression is often given in a sim- 
 ple and gratifying manner. It is a custom for children oc- 
 casionally to present to their mothers a piece of money, 
 called "Fofon damosina," literally fragrance of the back, 
 as a sort of grateful acknowledgment for the mother's kind- 
 ness when the infant was carried on the back. Several 
 families of respectability resided near my house, and I no- 
 ticed that the mistress of the house and her daughters, ar- 
 rayed in clean white dresses, usually walked out about four
 
 446 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. xv. 
 
 o'clock in the afternoon, followed by a number of slaves, 
 and returned about sunset. I was told that, on these occa- 
 sions, they generally paid visits to their friends or acquaint- 
 ances. I had been more than usually alone during the day, 
 but in the evening many friends came, uttering their deep 
 sorrow at the prospect of my leaving so soon, yet also ex- 
 pressing their confidence in God, that all would eventually 
 prove for the best. 
 
 Monday, 22d. I was up by daybreak, got my camera out, 
 and some fine matting nailed up as a sort of background. 
 By saven o'clock the prince arrived. He said the princess 
 regretted her inability to come, as she was suffering from a 
 swelled face. He then assured me of the deepest regret felt 
 by them both that my stay was to be so short, as my visit 
 had afforded them much pleasure. On this subject he 
 spoke for some time, and with much feeling. He said the 
 princess would come as soon as she was well, and asked if 
 I would try to take his likeness then. It was a fine clear 
 morning. He took his seat. I gave more than a minute's 
 exposure to the plate, and then developed with my pyro- 
 gallic and vinegar mixture; when, to my equal surprise 
 and delight, a tolerably good negative was the result. The 
 prince examined it by transmitted light, and was exceed- 
 ingly pleased. He took his seat again, and I obtained a 
 second negative, equally good, and much to his satisfaction. 
 The prince and one of his aids-de-camp and the queen's 
 secretary then sat down with me to breakfast. The fore- 
 noon was afterward spent in earnest conversation. Much 
 was said about my not remaining longer among them. 
 They said the queen continued to express herself pleased 
 with my visit, and all that she had heard respecting me; 
 and also that, in reference to returning when the time .speci- 
 fied should arrive, I had not disputed the matter with the 
 officers. I said I should much rather travel through the 
 country now, than at any other time during the ensuing
 
 CHAP. xv. THE FUTURE PROSPERITY OF MADAGASCAR. 447 
 
 three or even six months ; and therefore, as the queen 
 thought it better that I should not remain till the summer 
 of next y.ear, I had not sought to prolong my stay for any 
 shorter period, but should cheerfully return to the home I 
 had only left for a season, and where my arrival would be 
 cordially welcomed. 
 
 The prince then adverted to graver matters ; and, allud- 
 ing to a report which it was said had been recently brought 
 to the capital, that the English and French were both com- 
 ing to attack Madagascar during the ensuing year, he said, 
 " Why is this? Who makes these reports? Why should 
 we be attacked, and our country taken from us? What 
 can we do to prevent our country being seized, and our- 
 selves made slaves?" I replied that I did not know who 
 brought the reports alluded to, but believed there was no 
 actual danger of such a calamity ; for I was sure that if 
 England had any cause of complaint against them she 
 would let them know, and seek its removal by peaceable 
 means, before sending to attack them. 
 
 The prince afterward said, "What can we do to promote 
 the prosperity and stability of the nation, that Madagascar 
 may become like other countries ?" I replied, " The pros- 
 perity and stability of Madagascar depend upon yourselves. 
 The nation will be what you yourselves make it. Others 
 may aid your upward or downward course, but you must 
 determine the direction of that course. I do not know, but 
 my opinion is, that if you lose your country it will be be- 
 cause you are not true to yourselves; it will be because 
 you will have been betrayed by your own selves, or have 
 forfeited your just and proper advantages. Prosperity can 
 not be provided for you by others ; it must be* your own 
 achievement, if you ever possess it." 
 
 "How can we attain it?" the prince inquired. I an- 
 swered, " With the blessing of God you may attain it by 
 intelligence, integrity, and justice, energy and self-reliance.
 
 US VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. xv. 
 
 Integrity or truthfulness will inspire confidence, encourage 
 industry, and insure unity and co-operation." He said he 
 most earnestly desired knowledge, and regretted that he 
 could not read English books so as to understand them 
 readily. I told him. I regretted it also, but congratulated 
 him upon the attainments which, under great disadvantages, 
 he had already made ; and I urged and encouraged him to 
 persevere, adding- that, from the teachings of history, and 
 the maxims of wisdom embodied in that language, he might 
 learn the true sources of the prosperity of nations. I stated 
 that England was once less enlightened and less civilized 
 than Madagascar at the present time ; but that by gradual 
 yet steady progress through a long series of years, and many 
 severe ordeals, she had attained the position which she now 
 occupied among the nations ; and why should not a simi- 
 lar course issue in corresponding results elsewhere ? The 
 officer who was with us, and who had been seven years at 
 school in England when a youth, observed that such in- 
 deed had been the past of England's progress. 
 
 In reply to farther inquiries from the prince as to the 
 best means of promoting the progress of the people, I said, 
 "Seek to enlighten them; promote education to the ut- 
 most. Don't be afraid of the people knowing too much. 
 Those who are the best informed will be the most efficient 
 members of the community ; they will turn their own re- 
 sources to the best account ; and they will render the best 
 service to the state. An ignorant people can only be gov- 
 erned by force; an enlightened people by reason. The 
 people that understand the laws best, if they are just laws, 
 will be the most ready to obey them. Prosperity," I add- 
 ed, "is promoted by encouraging industry, and protecting 
 each man in tKe enjoyment of the fruits of his own labor. 
 This will make the people contented ; and a contented peo- 
 ple are always a loyal people. Increase the productions 
 of your own country, and they will put you in possession
 
 CHAP. xv. CONVERSATIONS WITH THE PRINCE. 449 
 
 of the products of other countries. Let your laws be just, 
 and then the good in the community will respect and obey 
 them, and help you to deter the bad from infringing them." 
 
 "But," said the prince, "suppose we try to 'do this, and 
 the nation does not prosper, will they not say that the gov- 
 ernment is to blame ?" I said, " There are in every country 
 people who are always ready to blame their government 
 when they do not prosper. But if your laws are just and 
 wise, and those who administer them honest, the enlighten- 
 ed and the upright in the community will be as ready to sup- 
 port you in adversity as in prosperity ; and their confidence 
 will be your strength. The loyalty of the people," I also 
 added, " depends much upon the officers who administer, as 
 well as the sovereign who makes laws, and one of the wis- 
 est of kings has said, ' a wicked person shall not stand be- 
 fore me.' " The prince replied, " I know that. I am quite 
 convinced of that." 
 
 It was past noon when the prince and his companions left 
 me ; and I have repeated the foregoing only as a specimen 
 of the kind of conversation which he appeared anxious to 
 introduce as often as opportunity offered. Other topics 
 equally important to the people, and more intimately con- 
 nected with himself personally, as well as relating to the pres- 
 ent and the future welfare of his country, were often intro- 
 duced by the prince in the course of conversation. Besides 
 my lively interest in this young prince, and which every 
 interview deepened, I can not but hope that the intercourse 
 I had with him, more frequent and unreserved than with 
 any other individual, may have been of some advantage to 
 him, while it is a source of grateful remembrance to myself. 
 
 In the evening, a number of the chief men among my 
 friends came and proposed many inquiries respecting modes 
 of procedure most suitable for them to adopt in their social 
 capacity, and in the relations they sustained toward each 
 other ; and it was past midnight when they departed. 
 
 F F
 
 450 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. xv. 
 
 By daybreak the next morning I had commenced my 
 preparations, and brought out my camera ; and about seven 
 o'clock the prince and princess came. I had not expected 
 them so early. On this occasion the covering of the prin- 
 cess's palanquin, fixed something like the hood of a chaise, 
 was thrown back. The prince assisted her to step out, and 
 then led her into the house to show her the apparatus and 
 materials. I then invited the princess and her three female 
 companions or attendants into my dwelling-house, while I 
 prepared the chemicals. When I was ready, the princess, 
 having changed her headdress, came out into the court-yard. 
 She wore an olive-green silk dress, and had on her head a 
 sort of cap composed of blue ribbons, with a gilt Maltese 
 cross in front ; small portions of her hair, very neatly braid- 
 ed in the Malagasy fashion, appearing about her temples on 
 each side. She wore also a rich necklace of jewels, with 
 earrings to match. I asked her to sit as much at ease as 
 possible. Having exposed the plate nearly a minute, I then 
 covered the lens, and told her it was finished. As I was 
 taking it back to the house the prince and princess asked if 
 they might come in, and, accompanied by the officer from 
 the palace, they entered with me into the dark room. They 
 were quite astonished, and the princess could not restrain 
 the expression of her surprise and wonder, as the colorless 
 plate became darkened, and the picture came out of itself 
 more and more distinctly, after I had poured the transparent 
 mixture out of the glass on its surface. Then, when I held 
 it up, and they saw it by transmitted light, her astonishment 
 and pleasure were still more manifest. Officers were sta- 
 tioned at the avenues leading to the yard in front of my 
 house to prevent persons entering ; but when the princess 
 came out, and the prince said it was so like it was the 
 princess herself the attendants asked me if they might see 
 it. I was obliged, however, to refuse their request for fear 
 of accident.
 
 _;;-. 
 
 THE PBINCB AHD PBRJORSS EOYAL OF MADAGASCAR.
 
 CHAP. xv. PORTRAITS OF THE PRINCE AND PRINCESS. 453 
 
 I told the princess I would take a full-length portrait if 
 she wished it ; and, as they both expressed the pleasure it 
 would give them, I prepared one of my large plates fif- 
 teen inches by twelve and, having fixed a sort of tempo- 
 rary head-rest, succeeded in obtaining a very passable neg- 
 ative, with which, when they saw it developed, they were 
 still more delighted than with the smaller picture. When 
 it was thoroughly washed I was obliged to take it to the 
 door to let the attendants look at it; the quickness and 
 quietness with which it had been done seemed so inexpli- 
 cable to them that their curiosity was irrepressible. 
 
 I then told my visitors that if they wished it I could take 
 both their portraits together in one picture. They express- 
 ed their pleasure at the proposal, and I prepared according- 
 ly. On this occasion the prince wore a uniform, blue faced 
 with red, and ornamented with gold. He wore also a star, 
 and the national belt of scarlet, yellow, and green. When 
 the prince came out of the house where he had retired with 
 the princess I noticed that, instead of holding his hat in his 
 hand, he had taken up a book which was lying on my ta- 
 ble, and I was pleased with the intimation which this con- 
 veyed, and which was well understood. When I told them 
 to stand in the position they would most prefer the prince 
 took the arm of the princess within his own, saying that 
 was the manner in which they walked together. When I 
 had adjusted the camera, exposed the plate, and we pro- 
 ceeded to the dark room, their previous wonder seemed far 
 surpassed as they looked and saw themselves gradually de- 
 veloping, side by side, with all the accessories and details. 
 The distinctness of the tones in the princess's necklace^ and 
 the bouquet in her hand, with the strong relief of the star 
 in the prince's breast, and the book he held, caused them to 
 marvel quite as much as the features of their countenances. 
 They had moved very slightly, and the photograph was 
 not so good as that of the single figures ; but it was passa-
 
 454 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. xv. 
 
 ble, and afforded them great satisfaction. I then took a 
 full-length figure of the prince himself, in his uniform and 
 cocked hat. It came out tolerably well; the figure was 
 more easy and natural than those previously taken, but the 
 face not so good. 
 
 I had no screen or shade, and had not been able to pro- 
 vide any better place for my sitters than in the open air, 
 on the western or shaded side of my house. Toward ten 
 o'clock the sun had become so high and powerful that I 
 could not proceed without more arrangements than I had 
 then time to make. I therefore asked my visitors to re- 
 main and partake of some refreshment ; and, breakfast be- 
 ing ready, we were just sitting down when a messenger 
 came from the palace to say that the queen had inquired 
 for the prince. He therefore left, but returned in less than 
 half an hour. We all felt much at our ease. The princess 
 said perhaps the queen would send for her ; but, if so, the 
 likenesses were taken. Our breakfast, though very plain, 
 was not declined. My visitors were communicative and 
 agreeable. The princess took some tea and biscuits, and 
 some other European cakes, sopping her biscuit in her tea, 
 and apologizing for not taking any thing on account of the 
 pain in her face. They both repeated their expressions of 
 regret that I was to leave them so soon, and said the same 
 feeling was shared by many of the officers ; that it was not 
 owing to any thing that had occurred since my arrival, but 
 had been fixed before I sent my application to prolong my 
 stay. They also expressed their hopes that I might visit 
 them again. I repeated my thanks, and assured them that, 
 from the expressions of good-will they had so uniformly 
 given, I was persuaded that my prolonged stay would have 
 been agreeable to them, if, on other accounts, it had been 
 desired. 
 
 Adverting, in the course of conversation, to the rumor of 
 an expected attack from a hostile fleet having been recently
 
 CHAP. xv. APPLICATIONS FOR PORTRAITS. 45r, 
 
 brought from the coast, the princess remarked, "We are 
 not insurgents, we are not usurpers ; we are the descendants 
 of the ancient inhabitants of the country. Why should we 
 not be left in peace ?" I again said I hoped and believed 
 that time would show all these reports to have been un- 
 founded, and that foreign ships would only come as friendly 
 visitors for purposes of commerce, which would promote 
 the prosperity of the country. 
 
 We conversed long and freely on subjects corresponding 
 with those on which I had talked with the prince the day 
 before ; and we should probably have continued some time 
 longer, had not one of the officers, who had come in a richly 
 embroidered uniform, expressed a wish that I should take 
 his likeness. The prince and princess, with their attendants, 
 left about noon ; and I afterward tried to gratify the officer, 
 but only obtained a bad and burned impression. As it was 
 useless to try again, he left about one o'clock. I then spent 
 an hour or two with my friends, and, later in the afternoon, 
 obtained a likeness of one of them. The prince afterward 
 came, with two ladies of the court, to have their likenesses 
 taken ; but the day was too far gone. A note soon after- 
 ward came from the palace, to say that two of the special 
 friends of the princess wished to have their likenesses, and 
 would come in the morning. 
 
 A number of my friends came in the evening, and we 
 conversed long and earnestly on the prospects of Madagas- 
 car. I was able to give them correct information on mat- 
 ters with which it was of the utmost importance for them to 
 be acquainted, and to offer suggestions and advice which I 
 could not but hope would prove beneficial to them all. It 
 was after eleven when they left me, with many expressions 
 of gratitude for the information and the advice I had given 
 them. I then went into the adjoining house to prepare my 
 chemicals for the next day, before retiring to rest. 
 
 By daylight the following morning I fixed my camera.
 
 456 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR CHAP. xv. 
 
 and, with the earliest morning light, took a full-length por- 
 trait of a valued friend, a fine, noble-looking man in the 
 prime of life. He wore the beautiful rich brown lamba, and 
 I obtained a good negative. His portrait is the foremost in 
 the accompanying group of full-length figures. Before I 
 had finished, the queen's secretary and the friends of the 
 princess came. I obtained full-length portraits of them, but 
 not very good, and I had no time for second trials. I also 
 took a full-length portrait of the husband of one of these 
 ladies. He was the son of Radama's sister, and a fine young 
 man. Of the wife of the prince's favorite aid-de-camp I also 
 obtained a good portrait, but did not succeed well with the 
 other ladies. 
 
 As the day advanced I was obliged to leave my pho- 
 tography and pack up my clothes and -other articles. I 
 then paid a visit to Prince Ramonja and others ; and after 
 four o'clock tried my photography again, and secured a few 
 more portraits. Just as I was removing the apparatus, a 
 note came from the palace with a request from the princess 
 that if possible I would take the likeness of Prince Ramon- 
 ja's daughter, her adopted child, in the morning; to which 
 I could only reply that I would try. My house was now 
 crowded with friends. Many brought presents as memo- 
 rials of affection and kind feeling. They remained until 
 midnight was past, when I was glad of a few hours' rest. 
 
 The young princess, Ramonja's daughter, came early. 
 The light was good, and I obtained a nice half-length por- 
 trait. I afterward tried a full-length, but did not succeed 
 so well. Numbers were waiting anxiously to secure their 
 likenesses ; and I took several of the officers of the palace, 
 and some of my particular friends ; but when the sun became 
 too high, and the light too strong, I was obliged to cease. 
 I insert a number of engravings of these portraits, with a 
 view of showing the remarkable heads and features of the 
 Hova race.
 
 1 AND 2, HOVA OFFICERS. 3, OFFICER OF THE PALAOK. 
 
 4, HOVA PKINCES8 DACGHTEB OF PEINCB RAMONJA.
 
 CHAP. xv. VISIT FROM THE PRINCE AND PRINCESS. 459 
 
 Soon afterward I received a note to say that, as the 
 coming night would be the last I should spend at the capi- 
 tal, the prince and princess would come at half past six 
 o'clock to spend the evening with me. In the afternoon a 
 note came from Prince Kamboasalama, the nephew of the 
 queen, and the cousin of the prince, stating that he would 
 be very glad if I would take the likeness of his daughter ; 
 but I was obliged to reply that, much to my regret, my 
 materials were all packed, and it was then too late for me 
 to comply with his wishes. 
 
 Soon after six o'clock my English friend, the queen's 
 secretary, came, and, at the time they had specified, the 
 prince and princess, with the adopted daughter of the lat- 
 ter came, attended by two or three female domestics. They 
 wore plain dresses of rich satin, and costly necklaces. That 
 of the young princess was of small pearls. Over their 
 dresses they wore beautiful white lambas, bordered with 
 five broad stripes of scarlet and green satin. When they 
 took their seats at my plainly-furnished table, I apologized 
 on account of most of my things being packed up; but 
 they both assured me it was not for the sake of what I could 
 set before them, but from the friendship of their hearts, that 
 they desired to come and spend the last evening with me. 
 In partaking of my evening refreshment, the ladies appeared 
 to prefer some light crisp biscuits with their tea, and de- 
 clined the ham, the diviners having prohibited the use of 
 the flesh of hogs within the capital ; but the prince and his 
 companions manifested no scruples on that head. The 
 prince having ordered his band to attend, it was stationed 
 in the yard outside, and played at intervals during the 
 evening. 
 
 My visitors frequently repeated their expressions of regret 
 at my departure. The prince said God would preserve me 
 from the fever, and take me in safety to my home ; and the 
 princess added, that my family would be glad I had not
 
 460 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. xv. 
 
 remained longer away. They asked to look at some por- 
 traits of members of my own family which I had with me, 
 and at the engraving of my residence, which the prince told 
 them he had seen, and said it looked like a pleasant home ; 
 the princess adding, that if I had had duplicates of some, 
 she would have liked to retain a copy, but did not desire 
 it, as I had only one. She asked much about English so- 
 ciety, about Queen Victoria whether she traveled much 
 from one part of the kingdom to another, or had many vis- 
 itors in her palace ; and what made the people of England 
 so fond of her, as she had heard they were. 
 
 I said the people of England looked upon their own gra- 
 cious sovereign as the most illustrious example of all that 
 was excellent and good in the relationships of life as well 
 as in the high position which she occupied as queen, and it 
 was thus that she secured their loyalty and love. But the 
 conversation soon turned again upon the present and the 
 future of their own country. They said that whatever re- 
 ports might reach England they hoped the English would 
 never believe they were unfriendly, for they should never 
 change never forget that the King of England and the 
 people of England had been their first and constant friends. 
 They spoke of many things which they regretted in the ex- 
 isting state of their country ; and expressed their earnest 
 desires that the burdens of the people should be lightened, 
 their condition improved, and the nation united and pros- 
 perous. I said it would be of great importance to all par- 
 ties if the Sakalavas and others could, by just and equita- 
 ble means, be brought to view the Hovas as their friends ; 
 and to consider union and identity with them, and partici- 
 pation in their advantages, as best for all ; and thus cement 
 their union as one great people having interests in com- 
 mon, rather than become separated and disunited, if not 
 hostile communities. The prince said it was his earnest 
 desire to do all he could to mitigate the sufferings of the
 
 CHAP. xv. TRUST IN THE PEOTECTION OF GOD. 461 
 
 people, and to render them contented and prosperous ; and 
 that, if his life was spared, he should still do so, trusting 
 in God to direct and preserve him. He said some of his 
 friends remonstrated with him for going about with so few 
 attendants; " But," he added, "I put my trust in God. If 
 it be His will that I should live, He will protect me." I 
 said, "Yes; God will preserve us in doing what is right; 
 but it is our duty to use the means He places within our 
 reach to prevent wicked men from doing mischief." He 
 said, "I do not think I should, in reality, be more safe with 
 a larger number of attendants. My chief trust is in God. 
 He is the Sovereign of life." 
 
 The sentiment thus expressed was often repeated by the 
 prince, and had been more than once exemplified in his 
 conduct. I heard from more parties than one that, but a 
 short time before my arrival at the capital, an attempt had 
 been made upon his life. One of the idol-keepers was said 
 to have concealed himself, with some of his adherents, in a 
 part of the way along which the prince was expected to 
 pass in going to visit the commander-in-chief, who was sick. 
 The assassin had raised his spear as the prince approached; 
 and, if not actually making the thrust, it was so near his 
 person that the prince either seized or dashed aside the 
 weapon with his own hand. The attendants of the prince 
 secured and would have dispatched the man at once, and 
 the chief officer, it is said, gave orders for him to be put to 
 death that night; but the prince interposed, and said, "God 
 is the Sovereign of life. He has preserved my life, and it 
 is not riecessary for its continued preservation that I should 
 destroy the life of this man. Let him live, but be sent to a 
 distant part of the country, and there so secured as to pre- 
 vent farther mischief to me or to others." In consequence 
 of these words the man was not put to death. 
 
 Our conversation subsequently turned upon the enlight- 
 enment of the people, and I spoke of the high estimation in
 
 462 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. xr. 
 
 which education was held by all civilized nations ; that 
 even in England, notwithstanding all its attainments, there 
 was no question on which men's minds were at the present 
 time more anxiously exercised than on the education of the 
 people, to which all classes gave the greatest encourage- 
 ment. The queen's secretary fully confirmed my state- 
 ments ; and referred, with evident satisfaction, to the silver 
 medal which he had before exhibited, and which his broth- 
 er had received at one of the public examinations at the 
 school in which he had been educated in England. We 
 afterward adverted to the possibility that the time might 
 yet come when there should be not only schools to teach 
 reading, writing, and arithmetic, but a college at Antanana- 
 rivo, where the youth of the higher classes and the most 
 intelligent in the nation should be more fully taught, and 
 that the prince might perhaps preside at an annual exam- 
 ination, and distribute the prizes; while the princess and 
 the ladies, her companions, might be spectators. The prin- 
 cess smiled with evident pleasure at this allusion. 
 
 I added that, from many things 1 had witnessed, the in- 
 telligent youth of the nation appeared to me to be eager 
 after knowledge ; and, among other illustrations, I mention- 
 ed that on my first arrival I had suspended a thermometer 
 in my sitting-room, but that so many young chiefs had no- 
 ticed it when they came, and, not satisfied with being told 
 that it exhibited the temperature of the atmosphere, asked 
 so many questions about the properties of the mercury, the 
 causes of the variations in the temperature of the atmos- 
 phere, and the manner in which one affected the other, that 
 I began to fear I should be obliged to remove it for want 
 of time to answer all the questions it suggested to their 
 minds. This desire after knowledge in reference to so sim- 
 ple a thing as a thermometer I said I felt persuaded existed 
 in reference to far more important things. 
 
 I have adverted to these conversations as indicating the
 
 CHAP. xv. THE LAST NIGHT AT THE CAPITAL. 403 
 
 views and feelings of those with whom I had most frequent 
 intercourse. I felt that all I could do was to endeavor to 
 lodge some germs of useful thought in their open and in- 
 quiring minds. 
 
 At length the prince, observing that it was nearly ten 
 o'clock, apologized for having staid so late. He said the 
 cannon would soon fire, when all doors would be closed ; 
 and, adding that they ought not to set an example of vio- 
 lating the regulations of the capital, he gave orders for pre- 
 paring to depart. He then proposed my health, directing 
 the band at the same tune to play the English "God save 
 the Queen." The prince and princess, with their niece, 
 then took their leave, and, entering their palanquins, de- 
 parted amid a profusion of lanterns and a crowd of attend- 
 ants. 
 
 After they had left, many of my friends came, successive 
 parties arriving until nearly midnight. We commended 
 each other to God as we separated, and I gave them all my 
 stock of medicine. Two of their number, one of whom 
 understands English, had acquired some knowledge of the 
 use of English medicine from Dr. Powell of Mauritius, who, 
 when formerly resident in Madagascar, had given medical 
 instruction to several of the Malagasy youth. I also gave 
 to them a number of useful articles, and left others to be 
 sold, and the proceeds to be distributed among the afflicted 
 and the destitute. 
 
 By daylight on Friday, the 26th of September, I was 
 stirring, and finished my packing. Several of my patients 
 came, some bringing presents, memorials, as they said, of 
 their sense of my kindness, and many of my friends came 
 to say farewell. Before breakfast the prince, with two of 
 his attendants, came to say that he and several of his friends 
 intended to accompany me to my first halting-place, and 
 wished to know at what time I should set out. I replied 
 that, as the officers did not propose to travel far the first
 
 464 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. xv. 
 
 day, I should leave between two and three o'clock. I aft- 
 erward went to take leave of some of my patients, who 
 were doing well. I also went to look again at places of 
 great interest to me the rock of execution, and the site of 
 the burning of the martyrs, both conspicuous spots and 
 visible from great part of the capital. 
 
 During the forenoon the queen sent an officer with some 
 Mozambique men to carry my palanquin, and I hired oth- 
 ers. The officer also informed me that eight officers were 
 appointed to proceed with me to the coast, that there might 
 be no delay in the fever districts; and a hundred men, 
 more than double the number required, came to arrange 
 and apportion my packages. Officers came and furnished 
 the requisite cordage and poles, and all were ready by noon. 
 I requested the officers to thank the queen for the kindness 
 and attention she had shown me even to the last. About 
 one o'clock the prince arrived, and, accompanied by one of 
 the nobles and their attendants, entered the house. Many 
 people were collected in the court-yard. The prince was 
 more than usually grave ; and we were long engaged in 
 earnest conversation. He spoke much of his anxiety for 
 the people and his distress at events that occurred. He 
 said it was like tearing his heart out. 
 
 About three o'clock we rose to depart, when the prince, 
 with a degree of feeling that almost overcame me, came 
 and, taking my hand, led me out of the house through the 
 crowd of officers and people to my palanquin. As soon as 
 I was seated he entered his own, as did also the young no- 
 ble his companion. Thus accompanied I commenced my 
 homeward journey. 
 
 As we passed through the narrow streets there were not 
 many people, but I recognized among them the faces of 
 friends. On reaching the more open road we were joined 
 by two other nobles and the wife of one of the prince's 
 friends. The prince's band also was. there in waiting ; it
 
 CHAP. xv. A TRULY PITIABLE OBJECT. 465 
 
 commenced playing as we approached, and preceded us 
 during the rest of the way. The prince ordered his bear- 
 ers to keep his palanquin close to the side of mine, that we 
 might talk together as we passed along. 
 
 We had not proceeded far before we approached the 
 walls of a prison. On a low bank, on the opposite side of 
 the road, a poor wretched-looking man was sitting, playing 
 on a small lokanga, or native sort of guitar, and begging a 
 handful of rice or other alms from the passers-by. He ap- 
 peared of middle age, and had a heavy iron ring riveted 
 round his neck and another heavy iron ring round one of 
 his legs. The other leg was lacerated and torn, as if the 
 flesh had been cut or worn away by a similar ring. Some 
 of the by-standers seemed moved with pity toward the poor 
 sufferer. As we approached the prince said, "Don't look 
 that way. I am ashamed. It is barbarous !" I asked 
 what was the man's crime. He said he did not know ex- 
 actly, but he believed it was slight, and that it grieved him 
 to see such cruel punishments. I remarked that all such 
 tortures characterized a barbarous people, and were only 
 inflicted by governments ignorant of the best means of de- 
 terring from crime and of elevating the people, for all such 
 inflictions and exhibitions of torture only tended to harden 
 and brutalize the minds of the people. 
 
 It was a bright, beautiful afternoon ; indeed, there was 
 not a shower all the time that I was at the capital, and we 
 continued our way, conversing as we passed along, until 
 we reached Amboipo, five miles from the : capital, where 
 it had been at first proposed that I should halt for the 
 night ; we all alighted on the plain in front of the village. 
 The lady who had accompanied us presented me with a 
 silk lamba to take home as a memorial of my visit. The 
 officers who had the ordering of the journey then said it 
 would be better to go on to Betafo, perhaps five miles far- 
 ther, and then halt for the night. The prince then ordered 
 
 GG
 
 466 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. xv. 
 
 the band to play the English " God save the Queen," dur- 
 ing which all took off their hats. He now took leave of 
 me with dignity and feeling, as did also the nobles and 
 their companions, commending me to the protection of 
 God. Then, having accompanied me to my palanquin and 
 told the chief of his band to go with me to the place where 
 I should halt for the night, the prince and his companions 
 entered their, palanquins. The aids-de-camp, five or six in 
 number, mounted their horses and returned to the capital, 
 while I pursued my way to Betafo, where I found all my 
 packages had already arrived. Here the band took their 
 leave. I made the leader a small present, and they return- 
 ed; while I prepared for the first night's lodging on my 
 homeward road. 
 
 Thus ended my visit to the capital of Madagascar and 
 my intercourse with this people. I have described the inci- 
 dents of my visit somewhat minutely, as the best means of 
 conveying a distinct impression of the circumstances of the 
 people, especially the Hovas, and their state of civilization. 
 Great is the interest felt in Madagascar by all classes, though 
 we have had little or no direct intercourse with the people 
 for the -last twenty years. The events which, during that 
 period, have transpired there have given to our interest in 
 that country and people an intense and undying character, 
 as connected with the holy fortitude and calm endurance 
 of those who have, during that period, suffered there afflic- 
 tion, spoliation, slavery, imprisonment, chains, and death for 
 the name of Christ. 
 
 ' In reference to the religion of the present, reasons which 
 are obvious require silence. No one would wish to impli- 
 cate the living in the calamities that were endured by the 
 dead. The laws against the Christian religion are not re- 
 pealed ; and may, for purposes to us inscrutable, be allowed 
 by the all- wise and all-merciful God to be again enforced. 
 
 It may be sufficient, therefore, to say that, so far as my
 
 CHAP. xv. THE CHRISTIANITY OF THE PRESENT. 467 
 
 opportunities of observing it have extended, the religion 
 of the present is the same as that of the past, and appears 
 to be sincere and satisfactory, a religion derived simply 
 and solely from the teachings of God's holy word, unfold- 
 ed, applied, and sustained by the operations of the Holy 
 Spirit. Under this Divine influence it appears to have at- 
 tained a measure of development that is truly marvelous. 
 That it is to be ascribed to this source alone would appear 
 from the fact that a large number of those who have suf- 
 fered became Christians after the last missionaries had left 
 the country. I repeatedly passed the places where the 
 martyrs suffered spots that will be consecrated by the 
 most hallowed and affectionate associations in the minds 
 of the Malagasy throughout all future ages. I had met 
 and conversed repeatedly with their widowed survivors and 
 their orphan children, as well as with those who witnessed 
 the steadfastness of their faith and the quiet triumph of 
 their death ; and from their testimony had derived more 
 than confirmation of all that we had previously heard. 
 
 The authorities in Madagascar, who sought by torture 
 and death to extinguish the Christian faith, by whatever 
 motives they may have been actuated, only imitated the 
 Diocletians of the early ages, and the Alvas, the Medicis, 
 and the Marys of more recent times, and with correspond- 
 ing results in the invincible constancy of those who fell, 
 and the subsequent fruits of the imperishable seed which 
 was scattered in the martyrs' blood. Deeply affecting were 
 the details which I received of the sorrows and the conso- 
 lations of the sufferers ; of their conduct in the hour of 
 peril, as well as on the day of impeachment and of trial ; 
 with the noble testimony which they bore, when brought 
 before judges and rulers, for His name's sake. The follow- 
 ing exact and verbatim statements refer to the severe per- 
 secution in the year 1849, and will make their own appeal 
 to every heart. They a?e offered without apprehension, a?
 
 468 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. xv. 
 
 those to whom they refer have passed into a world where 
 " the fury of the oppressor " and the cruelty of the perse- 
 cutor can never enter. 
 
 " On the 14th of March, 1849, the officer before whom 
 the Christians were examined said, 'Do you pray to the 
 sun, or the moon, or the earth ?' 
 
 " E answered, ' I do not pray to these, for the hand 
 
 of God made them.' 
 
 " ' Do you pray to the twelve mountains that are sacred ?' 
 "K . I do not pray to them, for they are mount- 
 ains.' 
 
 " ' Do you pray to the idols that render sacred the kings ?' 
 
 " E . ' I do not pray to them, for the hand of man 
 
 made them.' 
 
 " ' Do you pray to the ancestors of the sovereigns ?' 
 
 " E . ' Kings and rulers are given by God that we 
 
 should serve and obey them, and render them homage. 
 Nevertheless, they are only men like ourselves : when we 
 pray, we pray to God alone.' 
 
 " ' You make distinct, and observe the Sabbath day.' 
 
 "E . 'That is the day of the great God; for in six 
 
 days the Lord made all His works. But God rested on 
 the seventh, and He caused it to be holy ; and I rest, or 
 keep sacred that day.' 
 
 "And in similar manner answered all the Christians. 
 And when a man who had kept aloof saw that one a 
 woman did not deny God, and remembered that to deny 
 God was followed with compunction, he went and spoke as 
 the others had done. And when these brethren and sisters 
 were bound, the husband of one of them, who had heard 
 their confession, came and said to them, ' Be not afraid, for 
 it is well if for that you die.' He was a soldier from a dis- 
 tance, and not of the number of the accused. Then he 
 was examined, and, as he made the same avowal,, they 
 bound him also. And they removed these ten brethren
 
 CHAP. xv. TRIAL AND SENTENCES OF THE CHRISTIANS. 469 
 
 and sisters, and made their bands hard, or tight, and con- 
 fined them each in a separate house." 
 
 The writers of the journal add, "And, at one o'clock at 
 night, we met together and prayed. On the 22d of March, 
 when one had said Jehovah is God alone, and above every 
 name that is named, and Jesus Christ is also God, the peo- 
 ple cried out, mocking. And to another the officer said, 
 ' Eabodampoimerina (the sacred name of our queen) is our 
 god, but not your god.' He answered, 'The God who 
 made me is my God ; but Eabodo is my queen or sovereign.' 
 And when he refused other answer, they said, ' Perhaps he 
 is an idiot, or a lunatic.' He answered, ' I am not an idiot, 
 and have not lost my understanding.' Then there was a 
 commotion and buzz among the people, saying, ' Take him 
 away.' And they took him to prison. 
 
 " And before it was light, on the following day, the peo- 
 ple assembled at A y. Then they took the eighteen 
 
 brethren that chose God, and to inherit life, and to become 
 His sons and His daughters, and they bound their hands 
 and feet, and tied each of them to a pole wrapped in mats, 
 and placed them with the other prisoners. And of these 
 united brethren and sisters, ten were from Vonizongo. And 
 when the officers, and troops, and judges arrived, they 
 read over the names of each class of prisoners, and then 
 placed them by themselves, and stationed around them sol- 
 diers with muskets and spears ; and the sentences were then 
 delivered consigning some to fine and confiscation, others 
 to slavery, others to prison and chains, some to flogging, 
 and eighteen to death four to be burned, and fourteen to 
 be hurled from the rocky precipice and afterward burned to 
 ashes. 
 
 " And the eighteen appointed to die, as they sat on the 
 ground surrounded by the soldiers, sang the 137th hymn :* 
 
 * The numbers refer to the collection of printed hymns in the native lan- 
 guage. The translation is verbal and literal, not a metrical rendering of the 
 meaning.
 
 470 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. xv. 
 
 " 'When I shall die, and leave my friends, 
 
 When they shall weep for toe, 
 When departed has my life, 
 Then I shall be happy. ' 
 
 " When that hymn was finished, they sang the 154th : 
 " 'When I shall behold Him rejoicing in the heavens,' etc. 
 
 " And when the sentences were all pronounced, and the 
 officer was about to return to the chief authorities, the four 
 sentenced to be burned requested him to ask that they might 
 be killed first, and then burned. But they were burned 
 alive. 
 
 " When the officer was gone, they took those eighteen 
 away to put them to death. The fourteen they tied by the 
 hands and the feet to long poles, and carried on men's shoul- 
 ders. And these brethren prayed, and spoke to the people, 
 as they were being caried along. And some who beheld 
 them, said that their faces were like the faces of angels. 
 And when they came to the top of Nampaminarina they 
 cast them down, and their bodies were afterward dragged 
 to the other end of the capital, to be burned with the bodies 
 of those who were burned alive. 
 
 "And as they took the four that were to be burned alive 
 to the place of execution, these Christians sang the 90th 
 hymn, beginning, 'When our hearts are troubled,' each 
 verse ending with, ' Then remember us.' Thus they sang 
 on the road. And when they came to Faravohitra, there 
 they burned them, fixed between split spars. And there 
 was a rainbow in the heavens at the time, close to the place 
 of burning. Then they sang the hymn 158 : 
 
 " 'There is a blessed land, 
 Making most happy, 
 Never shall the rest depart, 
 Nor cause of trouble come.' 
 
 " That was the hymn they sang after they were in the
 
 CIIAP. xv. THE DEATH OF THE MARTYRS. 471 
 
 fire. Then they prayed, saying, ' O Lord receive our spir- 
 its ; for thy love to us has caused this to come to us. And 
 lay not this sin to their charge.' 
 
 " Thus they prayed as long as they had any life. Then 
 they died ; but softy gently. Indeed, gently was the go- 
 ing forth of their life. And astonished were all the people 
 around that beheld the burning of them there." 
 
 For the same reason, viz., to enable my readers to form 
 their own estimate of his character, I have recited also, in 
 detail, fragments of conversation with the young Prince of 
 Madagascar, who is, if not at the present time, yet certainly 
 in relation to the future, the most important individual 
 among his own people. I have already described his per- 
 son, and, in reference to his character and habits, the late 
 M. de Lastelle, speaking to me of him in 1853, observed, 
 " He is not like a Malagasy at all, but much more like an 
 English gentleman." 
 
 Without pretending to determine how far this comparison 
 was just, I soon became convinced, from much that I saw 
 and more that I heard, that the prince was a remarkable 
 young man, in whose future career it was impossible not to 
 feel deeply interested. His youthful appearance, unembar- 
 rassed address, and gentle and easy manners impressed me 
 favorably during our earliest intercourse. His preposses- 
 sions in favor of the English I did not expect, as he could 
 have been but a child when, twenty years before, the last 
 English resident had left the capital ; and perhaps I ascribed 
 some portion of the encomiums he passed upon England to 
 his own politeness, and the circumstance of my being an En- 
 glishman, probably the first Englishman with whom he had 
 become personally acquainted. I asked what had caused 
 him to form so favorable an opinion of the English, and 
 he said it was because, according to what he had heard, they 
 Were such as, in his own heart, he should like to be true, 
 just, humane, and watchful over human life. When I thus
 
 472 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. xv. 
 
 found that it was not the greatness of the nation, but the 
 reported goodness of the people which had prepossessed 
 him in their favor, it greatly enhanced my estimation of his 
 own character. And though to me he thus expressed his 
 opinion of the English, he said he desired to be friendly 
 with all foreigners who came to his country for honest and 
 honorable purposes. 
 
 I regretted exceedingly the prince's want of a good edu- 
 cation, as I could not help surmising that, if the page of his- 
 tory had presented its noble and distinguished characters to 
 his contemplation, the morally great would have been his 
 heroes. His love of justice and fair, open dealing appeared 
 constant and strong. He seemed to have an intuitive repug- 
 nance to deception, treachery, and cruelty, and to regard 
 human life as a sacred thing. Thus he frequently spoke of 
 his admiration -of the English on account of the humanity 
 of their laws, and their respect for human life in all circum- 
 stances, even in war; offering remarks suggestive of the idea 
 that in war submission was the end, never the beginning of 
 slaughter one of the most striking contrasts between the 
 revolting wars of his own country and those of civilized na- 
 tions. These were with the prince not mere theories. He 
 had often interposed not only, by his advice or authority, to 
 settle disputes, to insure justice, and to reconcile differences, 
 but to save life, and prevent suffering; and I heard from 
 more than one source that, when there was a conspiracy 
 among his own adherents to destroy his most formidable 
 and determined enemies, he peremptorily forbade any thing 
 of the kind on his behalf; and at length, not being certain 
 that this prohibition would restrain his followers, he actu- 
 ally went himself and personally informed his rivals of the 
 threatened danger, and thus saved their lives. 
 
 But while thus humane and just the prince is neither 
 weak nor cowardly. His affection for his mother appeared 
 to be strong and faithful, and his loyalty equally so. And,
 
 CHAP. xv. CHARACTER OF THE YOUNG PRINCE. 473 
 
 though not insensible to the miseries of the people, but, on 
 the contrary, feeling deeply the calamities produced by the 
 measures of the government administered in her name, he 
 more than once said that, in the event of any danger, he 
 would be the first to die in defense of his mother. And 
 yet it is said he allows no suitable occasion to pass without 
 counseling a mild and equitable rule. His keen sense of 
 the injustice of the severities and cruelties inflicted upon 
 the Christians contributed, in all probability, to induce the 
 prince to become their friend ; and when ultimately, repu- 
 diating the claims of the idols of his country, he identified 
 himself with the Christians, though thereby imperiling his 
 prospects of the crown, and subsequently, when he is said, 
 to have remonstrated against all open persecution, whatever 
 the consequences to himself might be, he evinced a degree 
 of moral courage not always associated with the gentle de- 
 meanor and humane disposition which he has so uniformly 
 manifested. 
 
 It is the attribute of God alone to see the end from the 
 beginning ; but, whatever may be the future of Rakotond 
 Radama, he has been one of the greatest blessings to his 
 own country in the important crisis through which it is 
 now passing, occupying a position somewhat analogous to 
 that of our own Edward VI. at the dawn of the Reforma- 
 tion, but with even sounder principles and greater charity ; 
 for, while the former but reluctantly spared his popish sis- 
 ter Mary, the latter preserved the life of a heathen priest 
 who had devised and attempted the destruction of his own. 
 
 The temperament of the prince is ardent and impulsive. 
 Hence his conduct may at times be hasty ; and this tenden- 
 cy has not been restrained by the discipline of sound edu- 
 cation. His disposition prompts him to rely much on oth- 
 ers ; hence his greatest danger is from false or pretended 
 friends, and his greatest want is wise and faithful counsel- 
 ors. Still there is much to excite admiration, if not sur-
 
 474 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. xv. 
 
 prise, in the amount of his intelligence, and the soundness 
 of his judgment. But, when his parentage, and the tone of 
 feeling among those around him on the subject of torture 
 and bloodshed are considered, together with the spectacles 
 of misery and the examples of cruelty to which his child- 
 hood and youth must have been exposed, his kindly sym- 
 pathies, his horror at the shedding of innocent blood, and 
 his sacred regard for human life appear truly marvelous. 
 Considering his character and his influence for good, to- 
 gether with the perils of his position for his friends are 
 painfully apprehensive for his life as well as the hallowed 
 hopes that seem to hang upon that valuable life, every 
 friend of religion and humanity must feel impelled to pray 
 that the prince royal of Madagascar may be preserved, and 
 his career be prosperous.
 
 CHAP. xvi. FAEEWELL TO FKIENDS. 475 
 
 CHAPTEE XVI. 
 
 Breakfast at Amboilefo. Intercourse with Friends from the Capital. 
 Hospitality at Prince Eamonja's Village. New Plants collected. Lodg- 
 ing in the Forest of Alamazaotra. Noise of the Monkeys 'or Lemurs. 
 Lycopodiums and other Plants. Heavy Kains. Extreme Difficulty of 
 Traveling in the Forest. Meeting with French Priests and Merchants. 
 Acceptable Collection of Plants. New Species of Platycerum or Stag's- 
 horn Fern. Arrival at Tamatave. Visit to the Locality of the Ouvi- 
 randra Fenestralis. Crocodiles. Kindness experienced at Tamatave. 
 Arrival of the Castro. Presents from the Queen. Departure from 
 Madagascar. Hospitality at Mauritius. Storm on the Ocean. Rescue 
 of two shipwrecked Mariners. Remarkable Meeting with a Native of 
 the Sandwich Islands. Safe Arrival in England. 
 
 BUT to return to the narrative of my journey. Several 
 friends who had been my constant companions or daily 
 visitors at Antananarivo, and who were anxious to defer 
 our final separation as long as possible, had traveled by 
 my side during the first day's journey, and passed the 
 night with me under the same roof. While the officers 
 were adjusting and sending off the packages the next morn- 
 ing, we had much serious and affectionate conversation; 
 and, after I had given some of them a small memento of 
 my visit, we bade each other farewell. They retraced 
 their steps to the capital, and I resumed my journey to the 
 coast. 
 
 Among the presents I had received at the capital were a 
 number of live animals from the Sakalave country and 
 other parts. Some of these had been pets with their for- 
 mer owners : among them a little tenrec had been given 
 me by the princess. It had generally slept all day in a 
 box, but frequently got out during the night, seeming
 
 476 
 
 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. 
 
 CHAP. XVI. 
 
 TUB 8PINY TKNKEC. 
 
 greatly to enjoy its nocturnal rambles. It fed on insects 
 and rice, and was quite tame. Of these animals there were 
 specimens which I intended to preserve, in order that they 
 might find a final resting-place in the splendid museum 
 under the care of Professor Owen in London, at whose 
 earnest entreaty I had used my best endeavors, though 
 without success, to obtain relics of the dodo in Mauritius, 
 and the rare and wonderful Cheiromya Madagascar ensis, I 
 had given the presents in question to the special charge of 
 one of my attendants ; but they had been forgotten when 
 the other things were removed, and, on my sending back 
 afterward to inquire about them, they could not be found. 
 About ten o'clock on the day when my friends left me 
 we reached Amboilefo, where we halted at the residence 
 of the mother of the wife of a French trader at Tamatave, 
 for which place the mother had that morning set out. But 
 the two daughters, one of whom had recently become a 
 widow, received me very kindly, and soon provided a hos- 
 pitable breakfast. The young widow wore her hair un- 
 plaited and disheveled; and this, with her wan face, the 
 result of long illness, and the low plaintive voice in which 
 she spoke, together with the aspect of a weak, sickly child 
 which lay in her arms, strongly excited my compassion. 
 They were evidently a family of some consideration, for
 
 CHAP. xvi. NIGHT SPENT AT AMBATOMANGA. 477 
 
 the spacious inclosed court in front of the house was half 
 filled with carefully-constructed tombs of stone, some of 
 them of large dimensions ; and I was told these were the 
 tombs of the family. 
 
 Soon after noon we resumed our journey, reached Am- 
 batomanga, and, passing over the deep fosses, and along 
 the edge of a sunken cattle-fold, which is always within 
 the defenses, and the fahitra, or pens for fattening cattle, I 
 alighted at the door of the house I had formerly occupied, 
 and received a cordial welcome from its inmates. 
 
 In the evening, friends from the capital arrived, some 
 bringing with them letters and other documents, others 
 coming only that we might spend another evening togeth- 
 er. With these friends I had deeply-interesting and im- 
 portant conversation, and I endeavored to give some useful 
 information on matters which they had previously men- 
 tioned, and on which they were anxious to have my most 
 matured opinions. The next morning I parted with them, 
 under deep solicitude, but with much affection ; and, send- 
 ing messages to those I had left behind, I left the romantic 
 feudal-looking village of Ambatomanga, and continued my 
 journey. 
 
 In the evening of the following day we reached the first 
 village in Ankay. Descending by the mountain road on 
 the western side of the extensive and fertile valley east of 
 Angavo, we reached the village of Prince Eamonja in the 
 forenoon of the next day. I was received with the same 
 tokens of hospitality and kindness as had been shown when 
 I had halted there on my way to Imerina. The servants 
 of the prince brought presents, etc. A bullock was killed 
 by his orders, and distributed among the people who were 
 with me. His aged and venerable nurse was as lavish in 
 her expressions of joy that I had seen the prince, as she 
 had been in her anticipation of the pleasure he would ex- 
 perience on my arrival. After remaining with these friend-
 
 478 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. xvi. 
 
 ly retainers of the prince until noon, we traveled onward 
 to Ambodinifo, and on the following day to Moramanga, a 
 military station, where I found all my packages had previ- 
 ously arrived. 
 
 Although a hundred and fifty miles or more from Tama- 
 tave, I had already begun to collect a few plants, which I 
 engaged a special bearer to carry, for I could not leave a 
 new, or curious, or beautiful plant or flower behind, when 
 I had an opportunity of taking it with me, with even a 
 chance of getting it alive to the coast. On my way toward 
 the wood-cutter's station at Alamazaotra I obtained two 
 new kinds of angraecums, several plants of the curiously- 
 shaped capsule and yellow-flowered Angrcecum crassum, and 
 the Angrcecum dtratum also a little purple-flowered tuber- 
 ous plant, much like Amphorchis calcarata. The latter I 
 found as I was passing along the edges of the water-courses 
 on the mountain sides. But my greatest treasure was a 
 large bulbed plant, of quite a new species ; and as it is now 
 growing well, and showing flowers, I hope it may be added 
 to the already rich collections of orchids cultivated in our 
 country. It had a large flower-stalk, a seed-pod the size 
 of an orange, and the natives said the flower was scarlet 
 and purple. I also obtained a new epiphite, with bulbs 
 and leaves resembling Oncidium ampliatum major, but of a 
 different habit of growth. 
 
 The weather was fine, and the descent from the high 
 central provinces so much easier than the ascent had been, 
 that in the afternoon of the 1st of October we halted at 
 Alamazaotra. I set off immediately into the forest, search- 
 ing for plants, and returned at dusk with a few small bulb- 
 ous orchids, and two small species of lycopodiums. Izaro 
 and one of the bearers were suffering from fever. Our 
 wants for the night fuel and provisions were liberally 
 supplied by the officers at the station. By seven the fol- 
 lowing morning we resumed .our journey, and soon entered
 
 CHAP. xvi. NOTICES OF THE LEMUR. 479 
 
 the forest. The morning was bright, the atmosphere clear 
 and bracing. My attention was soon attracted by a pecul- 
 iar shouting or hallooing in the forest, apparently at no 
 great distance from the road. It was not like any sound I 
 had heard before, but resembled that of men or boys call- 
 ing to each other, more than any thing else. At first I 
 thought it was a number of people driving cattle out of the 
 forest into the road. Still I heard no crashing among the 
 underwood, and saw no signs of bullocks. Then I imagined 
 it must be a number of bird-catchers or squirrel-catchers. 
 But on inquiring of my companions, they said the noise 
 proceeded from the black and white lemurs, Lemur macaco, 
 of which there were great numbers in the forests. 
 
 I had repeatedly seen lemurs of more than one species in 
 the market at Tamatave, and numbers among the people of 
 the place. There were two or three of the large-ruffed le- 
 mur in a house near my own dwelling, and they seemed to 
 be quite domesticated. Though covered with thick, almost 
 woolly hair, they appeasred to be ill at ease in wet or cold 
 weather, but to luxuriate in the warm sunshine. I often 
 noticed two or three of them together, on a fine morning 
 after rain, raised up on their hind legs on the outside of 
 the house, leaning back against the wall of the house with 
 their fore legs spread out, evidently enjoying the warmth 
 of the sun which was shining upon them. They are often 
 kept tame by the natives for a long time, and numbers are 
 sold to the masters of vessels and others visiting the port. 
 We had one on board the ship in which I made my first 
 voyage from Madagascar. It was a fine animal, and dur- 
 ing the twenty-eight days of our passage I had frequent op- 
 portunities of observing its disposition and habits. It was 
 tied to a boat on the deck, and in a basket under the fore 
 part of the boat it found a partial shelter from the rain and 
 the wind. It conveyed its food, boiled rice and fruit, to its 
 mouth by the hand. It was gentle and sociable, seemingly
 
 480 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. xvi. 
 
 grateful for any trifling notice or kindness. I frequently 
 gave it water, which it lapped like a dog, and occasionally 
 a banana ; and in a short time it seemed to watch my move- 
 ments whenever I came on deck, jumping on my arm or 
 shoulder if I approached the boat ; but was most delighted 
 when, attaching a long line to the short piece tied round its 
 body, I loosened it from the boat and allowed it to run up 
 the' cords or rigging, which it ascended with astonishing 
 ease and speed, sitting sometimes with apparent pleasure 
 on the extremity of the yard. It was scrupulously clean, 
 and seemed unable to endure any tar or other dirt on its 
 
 TIIE LEMlXi. 
 
 shaggy coat. One morning, during a heavy gale of wind, 
 when there was much motion in the ship and great confu- 
 sion and noise among the sailors, the lemur seemed unusu- 
 ally excited, and repeatedly raised itself upon its hind legs, 
 and clapped its hands together, and chattered loud in a 
 most extraordinary manner, occasioning great uneasiness 
 among our crew of Malagasy sailors, who declared it was 
 an omen of evil to the ship, and that some fearful calamity
 
 CHAP. xvi. LYCOPODIUMS AND OTHER PLANTS. 481 
 
 might be expected. I had felt so much interest in the so- 
 ciable and apparently gentle animal on board our ship that 
 I should have been glad to have seen some of its species in 
 their own forest homes ; but, though numbers were evi- 
 dently near, none of them came within sight. 
 
 Soon after crossing the first river in the forest I saw some 
 beautiful lycopodiums growing near the margin of the 
 stream ; and I always found them growing more luxuriant- 
 ly near the water than in any other place. I immediately 
 left my palanquin in order to examine them. They had the 
 habit of L. umbrosum, but more open. I dug up a number 
 of the plants, kneading the clayey soil in which they were 
 growing into a sort of ball, and giving the man who was 
 carrying my plants special charges respecting them. I then 
 walked on for about an hour, when I found large clusters 
 of delicate ferns, very much like Adiantum tenuifolium, but 
 more compact, differing also in other respects, and new to 
 me. I gathered as many of the ripe ferns as I could ; and 
 soon afterward found some plants with delicately-penciled 
 and variegated leaves, and dwarf succulent stems. The 
 leaves greatly resembled those of the echites, though the 
 habit of the plant was herbaceous and not shrubby. 
 
 This part of my journey was perfect enjoyment. The 
 slipperiness of the clayey path, or of the smooth, round in- 
 terlaced roots of the gigantic trees, and the wet and tangled 
 brushwood, with occasional piles or fragments of rock, were 
 scarcely felt to be impediments, under the influence of the 
 pleasure produced by the frequent appearance of a new 
 plant or flower of beauty or rarity. But by nine o'clock it 
 began to rain ; and, considering that two of my fellow-trav- 
 elers were suffering from fever, and that we had still the 
 most dangerous districts to pass, I was obliged, not perhaps 
 without a slight feeling of disappointment, to relinquish my 
 pleasant pursuit, and seek the shelter of the palanquin. 
 
 The rain increased, and the path became so slippery that 
 HH
 
 482 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR CHAP. xvi. 
 
 i more than once requested the men to let me get down and 
 walk, even in the rain. But they said my weight was small, 
 and I could never get on on foot. Light as the weight was, 
 it required the whole eight bearers great part of the way, 
 not so much to sustain the load as to keep the palanquin 
 upright, and to pilot it up and down the steep and some- 
 times intricate paths. A young chief kept before the palan- 
 quin great part of the way, striking a spear into the high, 
 steep loam or clayey sides of the path, and causing the loose 
 soil to fall and spread like sand or fine gravel over the 
 smooth, slippery path, and thus to prevent the feet of the 
 bearers from sliding from under them. The rain continued, 
 and the low or level parts of the way were overflowed ; but 
 we were still able to keep on. I admired the skill, address, 
 and care of the bearers, while I could not help feeling some 
 anxiety for their safety as well as my own. 
 
 When a short space of comparatively level or easy path 
 allowed me to look round, I was somewhat tantalized to see 
 fine patches of novel-looking ferns, or other new kinds of 
 plants, some of which I had noticed on my way up, request- 
 ing my attendants to mark the spots where they grew. And 
 there they were, looking as fresh and attractive as ever; but 
 I was obliged to leave them, with the hope that some future 
 traveler might pass through the forest in more favorable 
 weather, and secure what I was compelled to relinquish ; 
 for I had not the heart to ask the men to stop in the heavy 
 rain, for the sake of allowing me to obtain what to them 
 would seem but a common weed, or perhaps a useless bunch 
 of berries. 
 
 After seven hours' toilsome traveling, we reached a few 
 wood-cutters' huts, where we stopped to prepare breakfast. 
 The rain still fell heavily ; but, after resting a little more 
 than an hour, we traveled on to a few huts at a place called 
 Irihitra, where we halted for the night in one of the houses 
 which the friendly villagers vacated for our accommodation.
 
 CHAP. xvi. MEETING WITH FRENCH PRIESTS. 483 
 
 The next morning was fine, and we started early. About 
 ten o'clock, when descending toward Beforana, we met a 
 number of travelers on their way up to Imerina ; and on 
 inquiry I was informed that the principal personage was a 
 French doctor, from Eeunion or Bourbon, proceeding to the 
 capital. He was accompanied by two other foreigners, one 
 of whom, I was afterward told, was a Koman Catholic priest, 
 L'Abb6 Jouan, superior of the Jesuit college at Bourbon, 
 who was accompanying the doctor in the capacity of assist- 
 ant. Another priest, L'Abbe* Webber I was told, was ac- 
 companying the doctor as pharmacien. The bearers trav- 
 eled on tolerably well with two of the travelers ; but the 
 men bearing the worthy superior, a somewhat portly fig- 
 ure, seemed to be perspiring profusely under their burden ; 
 and I could scarcely imagine how, in such weather as we 
 had had, they would ever make their way along the forest 
 roads. 
 
 Shortly afterward I met M. Soumagne, a French trader, 
 from whom I had received much kindness at Tamatave. 
 He was traveling to Antananarivo, for commercial pur- 
 poses, in company with the son of the late chief judge of 
 the Province of Tamatave. The judge's son was followed 
 by a large retinue, including musicians, and dancers, and 
 singing-women. A large drum, carried on a pole between 
 two men, was one of the first portions of his baggage that 
 we had passed. On meeting we each alighted ; and, after 
 conversing a short time, M. Soumagne gave me the wel- 
 come tidings that he had letters for me from England. 
 After pursuing my journey for some time we breakfasted 
 at Beforana, where the chiefs who accompanied me found 
 those in charge of part of the luggage belonging to the 
 travelers we had passed ; and among them the news from 
 the coast and the capital was soon discussed. 
 
 Before we set out again a young chief, whom I had miss- 
 ed from the company while we were passing through the
 
 484 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. xvi. 
 
 forest, came up, followed by a man bearing a large basket 
 of orchidaceous plants, such as he had seen me endeavoring 
 to collect. I was delighted with the plants, some of them 
 being new, and engaged the man to carry them on to the 
 coast. Two days after we halted for a day's rest. It was 
 the Sabbath, and, as another of my bearers was now suffer- 
 ing from fever and all seemed fatigued, the day's rest was 
 as welcome to them as grateful to my own mind. 
 
 At the close of the following day's journey we reached 
 Ranomafana, near the hot springs ; and, half a mile before 
 entering the village, I saw a beautiful shrub in bloom. The 
 flowers were composite, and resembling the poivrea, but of 
 a bright scarlet color I dug up with a spade a few young 
 plants, and, keeping the roots in a ball of earth, brought 
 them away, and have succeeded in bringing two of them 
 alive to England. Our way now lay through a most de- 
 lightful and verdant country. The bamboo, traveler's-tree, 
 and rofia palm were abundant, and growing most luxuri- 
 antly. After picking up some new plants almost every 
 day, and obtaining, among others, some masses of a new 
 species of platycerum, or stag's-horn fern, I reached Tama- 
 tave in safety on the 12th of October, grateful for the pro- 
 tection from all accident or fever which I had experienced, 
 and thankful to find myself so far on my homeward way. 
 The house I had formerly occupied was again furnished for 
 my use, and every assistance rendered by the authorities of 
 tne place. I paid the bearers whom the queen had provid- 
 ed the same amount as those hired on my former journey. 
 
 While waiting here for a ship I examined my plants, and 
 found many killed by the sun and drought during the lat- 
 ter part of the journey. I placed those that were still alive 
 in the shade, hoping to preserve them, and invigorate them 
 for the voyage. I also visited a river about eighteen miles 
 distant, to see the situations in which the Ouvirandra fenes- 
 tralis grew, and found it in a sluggish river about twenty
 
 CHAP. xvi. PROXIMITY TO A CROCODILE. 487 
 
 yards wide, and three or four feet deep in the centre, with 
 a sandy, alluvial bottom, and a considerable deposit of sand 
 and mud around the crowns of the plants, indicating that 
 the deposit of soil brought down by the frequent rain from 
 higher parts of the country formed a sort of top-dressing 
 for the plants. A large plant which I procured I preserved, 
 at Sir William Hooker's suggestion, in ajar of spirits, and 
 it is now in the museum of the Royal Gardens at Kew. 
 
 As we passed along, we saw a woman seated on a piece 
 of wood which jutted out into the water, eating a banana, 
 and drinking of the stream ; the chief who was with me in 
 the boat warned her away, lest she should be seized by a 
 crocodile, of which, he said, there were numbers in the 
 river. A few yards farther on, a monster, shining and 
 brown like the bank of mud on which he was lying, ap- 
 peared not many yards from our canoe. It was about seven 
 feet long, and so still that I thought it was dead, and, 
 pointing to it, the chief, expecting that I wished to ap- 
 proach, called out with a most startling earnestness, "Away! 
 away ! It is not dead, nor yet asleep." Looking more in- 
 tently, I saw that its tail did not lie straight out, but was 
 rather curved ; clearly showing it to be alive. We were 
 at the time rowing along the edge of a large plantation of 
 sugar-cane ; and one of the laborers belonging to the plant- 
 ation, who was in the canoe, stated that crocodiles there 
 were numerous and savage ; that two or three of the slaves 
 belonging to the plantation were almost every year carried 
 off by these reptiles. 
 
 While waiting at Tamatave I had a good opportunity 
 for using my cameras, and many of the chiefs and others 
 were gratified by having their likenesses taken. At the 
 same time I also secured a view of my own residence, to- 
 gether with the street in Tamatave of which it formed a 
 part, as well as of a number of the chiefs and others in 
 their ordinary dress, sitting or standing under the veran-
 
 488 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. xvi. 
 
 das, as they often appeared during the after-part of the 
 day.* I also printed off proofs from the negatives I had 
 taken at the capital, which I put in glass frames, and sent 
 to their respective owners, who have since acknowledged 
 the pleasure their arrival afforded them. 
 
 Most of the leading persons at Tamatave came to see the 
 likenesses of the members of the Hova court at the capital. 
 Many of the friends of the prince, when they looked at the 
 full-length likeness of him which I had taken, took off 
 their hats and respectfully saluted the picture, pronouncing 
 his name with emphasis, and adding, " Veloma Tompoko," 
 " May you live, sovereign or lord." Few of the visitors 
 interested me more than the widow of the late M. De Las- 
 telle, daughter of one of the late hereditary chiefs of the 
 Betsimasaraka, or race inhabiting this part of the country, 
 and whose ancestors, until within the last half century, had 
 been accustomed to regard the ancestors of Eadama and 
 the reigning families of the Hovas as greatly their inferiors, 
 and the Hovas as by no means their equals. She gazed 
 earnestly at the full-length likeness of the princess, for a 
 long time repeatedly uttering, " And that is Eabodo !" Sev- 
 eral persons came more than once and begged to look at 
 the pictures. 
 
 I often had occasion to notice the manner in which the 
 natives measure short periods of time. When asked how 
 long it would require to walk to a certain place, they would 
 answer by the time it took to cook a pan or pans of rice, 
 saying, It will require as long as one cooking of rice, or 
 
 * It is perhaps but just, in connection with this subject, to state that my 
 camera which was large, capable of taking a picture sixteen inches square 
 and the other apparatus worked well the whole time, and seemed scarcely 
 affected either by the intense and dry heat of the capital or the saturating 
 moisture after the heavy rains on the coast. The camera was of mahogany, 
 and light, and stood much better than cameras of walnut, which I had 
 taken out on my former visits. The apparatus was all made by Messrs. 
 Murray and Heath, of Piccadilly.
 
 CHAP. xvi. KINDNESS EXPERIENCED AT TAMATAVE. 489 
 
 two cookings of rice, each cooking of rice being from twen- 
 ty minutes to half an hour ; and I was much struck with 
 the similarity of customs prevailing among people in the 
 early periods of their social organization, though placed in 
 circumstances otherwise different and exceedingly remote, 
 by reading, in that most interesting account of the arctic 
 regions by Dr. Kane, that the Ostiaks, in Liben, measure 
 time by the time of cooking a kettle of food or a meal. 
 Few, if any other, coincidences probably exist between the 
 customs of the arctic regions and those of Madagascar. 
 
 Nothing could exceed the kindness manifested toward 
 me during my stay at the coast. A bullock was presented 
 by the prince's friends, and was killed for the people living 
 with me, and poultry and other articles were brought every 
 day. One man would bring as much fuel as was needed 
 for the day, and would receive no payment in return. I 
 took his likeness with a couple of bundles of fire-wood on a 
 pole over his shoulder, and left it with him as a memorial 
 of his generous consideration. While remaining here, I 
 had one very sharp attack of illness, which, however, did 
 not last long, and under no circumstances could I have been 
 more carefully watched and attended to than by my friends 
 at Tamatave. 
 
 At length the Castro arrived, bringing me a note from one 
 of the owners, "W. L'Estrange, Esq., generously offering me 
 a passage to Mauritius, which I gratefully accepted. 
 
 I had spent many hours in very pleasant conversation 
 with friends from the capital jand the neighborhood ; and as 
 these seasons now drew to a close, they seemed to be more 
 interesting and valuable. When the ship was ready to take 
 in her cargo the governor sent me the ten oxen which the 
 queen had ordered him to give me as her present. They 
 were fine animals, and were taken on board with those for 
 the Governor of Mauritius. The agent of the prince also 
 presented an ox, as a present to the captain of the ship, with
 
 490 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. . CHAP, xvi. 
 
 expressions of thanks for the attentions he had shown me 
 on the voyage. 
 
 The evening of the 17th of November, 1856, was the time 
 fixed for our departure ; and after taking leave of the for- 
 eign residents, I walked down to the beach, accompanied 
 by the aid-de-camp of the prince, and chiefs and friends to 
 the number of twenty. On my way I met the captain and 
 several friends coming to see if I was ready. We soon 
 reached the shore ; and then, after repeated and most affec- 
 tionate farewells from my friends, I joined the captain, who 
 was already in the boat, and before ten o'clock was in the 
 cabin of the Castro. Sodra, my faithful attendant, had ar- 
 ranged my berth, and waited to bid me farewell, after which 
 he returned to the shore, having during the day applied in 
 vain to the authorities of the port for permission to accom- 
 pany me to Mauritius. 
 
 By six o'clock on the 18th we were under weigh. The 
 wind was fair, and during the first three days we passed 
 over two thirds of the distance to Mauritius. But calms 
 and contrary winds detained us at sea sixteen days, and it 
 was not until the 2d of December that we reached Port 
 Louis. The medical officer who came on board to examine 
 our ship, delivered a letter from Commodore (now Admiral) 
 Trotter, then in the harbor ; and on my way to the shore I 
 called on board the frigate, and spent some time with the 
 commodore, whom I had previously met at the Cape of 
 Good Hope. 
 
 On reaching the shore I found that death had again re- 
 duced the circle of my friends ; but I was cordially wel- 
 comed by the survivors, and took up my abode beneath the 
 friendly and hospitable roof of M. Lebrun. In company 
 with Commodore Trotter I visited Reduit, where I met a 
 number of other friends, and afterward spent my Christmas 
 with the governor and his family. I also accompanied the 
 Bishop of Mauritius and some of the officers of government
 
 CHAP. xvi. STORM ON THE OCEAN. 491 
 
 on board the commodore's ship, where I met a gentleman 
 recently from Bourbon, from whom I obtained much valu- 
 able information. I likewise met repeatedly with Mr. Lay- 
 ard from the Cape, who, for purposes of science, was voy- 
 aging with the commodore. During my stay I also shared 
 the hospitality of Major-general Hay, commander of the 
 forces at Mauritius, and found myself again a guest at 
 Cerne, with the Honorable Judge Surtees and Mr. William 
 L'Estrange. Mr. Dowland, acting colonial secretary, also 
 offered me the hospitality of his country residence, until at 
 length the steamer England arrived at Port Louis ; and on 
 board this fine vessel, commanded by Captain Dundas, I 
 embarked for England on the 13th of January, 1857. 
 
 It was the season of cyclones, or hurricanes, and these 
 atmospheric disturbances are as frequent and as violent in 
 the neighborhood of Mauritius as in any other part of the 
 world. A few days after we had left the island we expe- 
 rienced as severe a gale and as high a sea as I remember 
 ever to have witnessed either off Cape Horn or the Cape of 
 Good Hope. We could only show canvas enough to keep 
 the ship steady, and yet were driven along at a fearful rate, 
 while the sea broke in cascades first over one side of the 
 bulwarks and then the other; and, rolling like a torrent 
 fore and aft as the ship rose or sunk with the waves, swept 
 away every thing that was not secured by fastenings. Our 
 captain regarded it as the tail of a hurricane, more especial- 
 ly as the wind changed rapidly to opposite quarters. After 
 the second day, however, the weather became moderate, and 
 we pursued our voyage without inconvenience. 
 
 Two days afterward, viz., on the 21st of January, while 
 sitting in the captain's state-room waiting for him to mark 
 our position on the chart, I took from his shelves a book in 
 which I soon became interested. When we had looked at 
 the chart I remarked that I had met with an old friend 
 whom I did not expect to find on board the England, and
 
 492 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. xvi. 
 
 held up " The Loss of the Winterton, East Indiaman," by 
 the late Mr. Buchan, of Kelloe, observing that I knew the 
 author, from whom I had many years ago received a copy 
 of his book. 
 
 Captain Dundas replied that Mr. Buchan was related 
 to his mother, and that the captain of the Winterton, was 
 his grandfather. I then recollected that Dundas was the 
 name of the captain who had perished in the wreck. Aft- 
 er remarking that we were not far from the place where 
 the wreck occurred Captain Dundas went on deck. In a 
 few moments I heard the cry " A wreck ! a wreck !" and, 
 hastening to the poop, saw on the larboard bow a small 
 flag or signal of blue cloth, distinct among the tops of the 
 waves, and about two miles off. In a few minutes more I 
 discerned a sort of raft, with two figures, a white man and 
 a man of color, sitting upon it, up to the waist in the sea. 
 
 The flag of the England had been hoisted symbol of 
 help and deliverance to signal to the castaways that they 
 were seen, and the ship's course was altered. Meanwhile, 
 one of the boats was lowered, and, manned by five stout, 
 willing hands, was pushed off toward the raft. While the 
 oars rattled with each stroke, and the light boat seemed to 
 spring over the waves, with our tall, stout second officer, 
 Mr. Peters, standing with the steer-oar in the stern, every 
 eye on board was stretched toward the same point; the 
 sailors leaning over from the forecastle and fore rigging; 
 the officers and passengers straining over the bulwarks of 
 the poop; ladies with their children, all gazing with the 
 most intense interest as our boat approached the raft. No 
 one moved ; not a word was uttered ; even breathing seem- 
 ed difficult ; but when the first man, and then the second 
 stiff, benumbed, and swollen with the water had been 
 safely lifted into the boat, the pent-up feeling found utter- 
 ance in the almost simultaneous exclamation, "They are 
 saved!" which was heard from stem to stern along the side
 
 CHAP. xvi. RESCUE OF SHIPWRECKED SAILORS. 493 
 
 of our ship. Some persons near me wept, others seemed 
 ready to faint under emotions of sympathy and joy. 
 
 Our boat was soon alongside, and, swollen, bruised, and 
 bleeding, the men were helped over the ship's side into the 
 cabin. Not wishing to add to the pressing crowd I remain- 
 ed on deck. A few moments afterward I heard the captain 
 call, " Mr. Ellis ! here is a Sandwich Islander. Come and 
 speak to him." I went into the cabin, where the two men 
 were sitting on the deck. The white man was the captain 
 of a ship which had been upset in the violent gale two days 
 before, when every one on board, twenty-two in number, 
 except the two just rescued, had perished. The islander, a 
 young man, was one of the crew ; and, having made no an- 
 swer to the questions addressed to him by our humane cap- 
 tain, I had been called down. 
 
 The man was sitting on the deck, his head bent down, 
 and his long, black, and dripping hair hanging over his 
 eyes and down his face. Looking at him, I said, " Aroha, 
 ehoaino, aroha:" Salutation, dear friend affection. The 
 man lifted up his head, swept with his hand his long, black 
 hair to one side of his forehead, and, looking earnestly at 
 me like one to whom consciousness was but just returning, 
 and startled by the sound of his native language, returned 
 my salutation. In answer to a few inquiries he told me he 
 was a native of Oahu, the island on which I had at one 
 time resided. He said he was up aloft furling sail, when 
 the ship suddenly went over, and all, in an instant, were 
 plunged into the deep ; that there were other islanders on 
 board, but they soon sank. The doctor of our ship then 
 gave the men a little suitable refreshment, and they were 
 wrapped in flannels and put to bed. Captain Dundas took 
 the raft, a very fragile affair, and brought it to England, in- 
 tending to deposit it in the Crystal Palace. 
 
 The next day I went down to the berths where the Sand- 
 wich Islander was lying, and found him very much revived.
 
 494 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR CHAP. xn. 
 
 After conversing with him about the wreck and the loss of 
 all his shipmates I said, "God has very mercifully preserved 
 you. You must remember his goodness, and pray to him." 
 He said, " I did pray to him in the night, when I was in the 
 sea. I did pray to God in the morning, when I saw the cap- 
 tain ; I prayed that we might be saved. And God sent 
 away death, and sent your ship, and we are here." I said, 
 " I am glad you prayed to God. You must be thankful to 
 God, and serve him, and love him. You must try to praise 
 God in your future life." 
 
 I then repeated the first two lines of a hymn which I had 
 written, among the first ever composed in the language of 
 the Sandwich Islands, when I was a missionary in that coun- 
 try. The lines are these : 
 
 " He Akua hemolele 
 Ke Akua no kakou." 
 
 " A God of perfection or goodness is our God." The man's 
 countenance brightened as I repeated these lines, and as 
 soon as I had ceased he took up the strain where I had left 
 off, repeating the two concluding lines and the remaining 
 verses with evident satisfaction. I said, " Where did you 
 learn that hymn ?" He replied, " In the school of the mis- 
 sionaries at Oahu." That was the island in which I had 
 resided. I then said, " I wrote that hymn many years ago, 
 wh^n I lived in the Sandwich Islands." He looked at me 
 with still greater astonishment, and said, "Who are you?" 
 I said, " I am Mika Eliki" (the native pronunciation of my 
 name), " and I was a missionary at Oahu with Mr. Bing- 
 ham, Mr. Thurston, and others." He seemed surprised and 
 pleased ; said he knew the missionaries who were now at 
 the islands; that his brother was a native teacher in the 
 Sandwich Islands, and his sister a Christian. 
 
 It had been my privilege to labor in harmonious co- 
 operation with the able and devoted American missionaries 
 first sent to the Sandwich Islands. Having a knowledge
 
 CHAP. xvi. SINGULAR AND ENCOURAGING INCIDENT. 495 
 
 of the language at Tahiti, which varies but slightly from 
 that of Hawaii, I had assisted in forming the Hawaiian 
 alphabet, and fixing the orthography of the native lan- 
 guage, as well as in other departments of missionary labor. 
 
 More than thirty years had passed away since I had left 
 those islands, and it was an unexpected satisfaction to my 
 own mind to find that the Christian sentiments embodied 
 in a simple hymn, which had been prepared chiefly with a 
 view to implanting seeds of truth in the minds of the 
 young, had afforded consolation and support to the mind 
 of a native of those islands in the lonely solitude of a -dis- 
 tant ocean, amid the perils of shipwreck, and the prospect 
 of death ; and I mention this circumstance for the encour- 
 agement of other laborers in the cause of humanity and 
 religion, that they may cast their bread upon the waters 
 and labor on, in the assurance that no sincere effor^ will 
 be altogether in vain, though its results should never be 
 known. 
 
 The ship from which these two men were saved was the 
 Henry Crappo, from Dartmouth, Massachusetts, a whaler, 
 full, and homeward bound. Many particulars of their peril 
 were afterward related to us by the captain. While drift- 
 ing on their raft they had been pursued by two sharks. 
 One attempted to seize them, but by drawing up their legs 
 from the water as well as they were able, and chopping at 
 their assailant with a small hatchet found in the fragment 
 of the boat of which their raft was constructed, they suc- 
 ceeded in driving him away. They had been two days 
 and two nights in the sea, and the only refreshment they 
 had had was a small lime or lemon which the captain found 
 in his pocket, and, cutting it in half, divided with his com- 
 panion, and a piece of a pumpkin from their own ship, 
 which floated past on the following day. 
 
 Soon after this incident we reached the Cape of Good 
 Hope, where our rescued mariners left us to proceed to
 
 496 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. CHAP. xvi. 
 
 America. Sailing from this port we touched at St. Helena 
 and the Island of Ascension, and by the care of a watchful 
 and gracious Providence reached England in safety on the 
 20th of March, 1857.
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 BRIEF REMARKS ON THE MALAGASY LANGUAGE. 
 
 IT will be apparent, from several statements in the preceding 
 pages, that my knowledge of the native language was but limited. 
 I had, however, with the assistance of the missionaries, previously 
 made myself acquainted with its structure and general principles, 
 for the purpose of tracing its affinities with the languages of Poly- 
 nesia ; and I had given some attention to the grammars of Messrs. 
 Baker and Griffiths, as well as to the dictionaries of Messrs. Free- 
 man and Johns, and to the Scriptures and other books translated 
 into Malagasy. I was also, during my sojourn in the country, 
 constantly among the people, occasionally with one or more of the 
 natives who understood English, but generally with those who 
 knew no language besides their own. Under these circumstances 
 my residence in Madagascar was a continued lesson in the lan- 
 guage ; and notwithstanding the opinion expressed by a late ami- 
 able and distinguished writer in connection with language, that 
 " the concerns of barbarians unconnected and remote from all 
 contact with literature or civilization, and destitute of all historic 
 records, will scarcely be thought to require any great portion of* 
 attention from the philosophical inquirer," I am induced to hope 
 that a brief notice of some of the distinctive features of the Mala- 
 gasy language, and the family of languages to which it belongs, 
 may not be inappropriately added to the narrative of my visits. 
 
 In the course of my first interview with the people on shore I 
 was impressed with the resemblance in color, and often in form 
 and feature, between the Malagasy and the Polynesians ; and ask- 
 
 II
 
 498 APPENDIX. 
 
 ing the names of some of the common objects, I found that tany 
 was the word for earth or land, which in some of the Polynesian 
 dialects is aina and tana; that lanitra, pronounced lanit, was tin- 
 name of heaven or sky, which in the Sandwich and other islands 
 is called lani or langi; that mata signified, as it does in Polynesia, 
 the human face ; that nio, pronounced niu, the name for the cocoa- 
 nut-tree, was exactly the same as in the South Sea Islands ; and 
 that the names of the pandanus and other trees growing around 
 were, with slight variations, the same as those used by the Tahi- 
 tians and Sandwich Islanders. These and other coincidences 
 greatly strengthened my previously formed opinions as to the close 
 resemblance, if not identity, of these languages. Subsequent in- 
 vestigations furnished additional evidence of this resemblance, not 
 only in the signification of words of the same sound, but in the ar- 
 rangement and grammatical structure of the language ; while pro- 
 tracted intercourse with the people also made me acquainted with 
 many important points in which, in both these respects, the lan- 
 guages differ from each other. 
 
 One of the most remarkable facts in connection with the Mala- 
 gasy language is the vast distance to which the same language has 
 been extended. That there is an intimate connection, if not rad- 
 ical identity, between the Malayan and other languages spoken 
 throughout the Asiatic Archipelago and those used by the races 
 inhabiting the islands spread over the eastern part of the Pacific 
 Ocean on the one hand, and that spoken by the natives of Mada- 
 gascar on the other, does not now admit of doubt. Verbal and 
 grammatical differences characterize the several families of lan- 
 guages or dialects in their respective regions, and also prevail to 
 some extent among collections of languages or dialects belonging 
 to the same region ; but, underlying these, appear indubitable 
 traces of one primitive language, of which the verbal or structural 
 features may, in a greater or less degree, still be discovered in 
 them all. 
 
 Regarding Sumatra or the Malayan peninsula as a centre, this 
 language has extended to the eastward across the Pacific Ocean 
 to Easter Island, a distance of 150 degrees ; and, on the other hand,
 
 APPENDIX. 499 
 
 it has stretched over the Indian Ocean to Madagascar, 50 degrees 
 to the westward, thus reaching, chiefly within the tropics, over 200 
 degrees of longitude, or 20 degrees more than half the circumfer- 
 ence of the globe. This same language also prevails from the 
 Sandwich Islands, in latitude- 23 30' N., to New Zealand, in lat- 
 itude 40 S., thus spreading in a direction north and south over 
 70 degrees. The latter two clusters of islands, although nearly 
 5000 miles apart, appear more closely allied to each other by lan- 
 guage than, with one or two exceptions, either of them is united 
 in the same manner to any of the intervening groups. The re- 
 searches of Sir George Grey,* late governor-in-chief of New Zea- 
 land, as well as those of Mr. Hale of the United States Exploring 
 Expedition, and of Captain Erskine of H. M. S. " Havannah," and 
 others, furnish conclusive evidence that the inhabitants of the isl- 
 ands of Eastern Polynesia have a common origin ; while some of 
 the legends published by Sir George Grey would seem to intimate 
 that the relations between the Sandwich Islanders and the inhab- 
 itants of New Zealand must have been more than ordinarily close. 
 The Hawaiki, so conspicuous in the ancient traditions of New 
 Zealand, as the country whence its population was derived, would 
 seem to indicate a near relationship with Hawaii, the present 
 name of the largest of the Sandwich Islands, and may probably 
 connect both with Saivaii, the largest of the Navigator's group, 
 and situated midway between them. The probability that the h 
 
 * Polynesian Mythology and Traditional History of the New Zealand 
 Eaces. This work by Sir G. Grey is not only extremely interesting, but 
 valuable on account of the information it contains ; and it is earnestly to be 
 desired that the missionaries in those regions, or other persons equally well 
 qualified, should be able, without neglecting more important duties, to col- 
 lect, while it is still possible to do so, and preserve, as has been done to 
 some extent in the "Samoan Keporter," the legendary history, and even 
 the fabulous mythology of other portions of the same widely-scattered fam- 
 ily. Such records, besides proving serviceable in communications with ex- 
 isting races, would be deeply interesting to future generations of the people, 
 whose destiny, it is to be hoped, is not extinction, but amalgamation with 
 the civilized and Christian races, whose dominion is so rapidly advancing 
 in those distant regions.
 
 500 APPENDIX. 
 
 of the Eastern Polynesians has been supplanted by the a in the 
 dialect of the Navigator's Islanders favors this conclusion, and 
 assists in solving the difficulty resulting from the distance. It is 
 not improbable that, at some remote period anterior to the intro- 
 duction of the sibilant of the Western Polynesians into the lan- 
 guage of the Navigator's Islands, and when the principal island 
 of the latter group would be designated Hawaii, voyagers proceed- 
 ing thence in a southeasterly direction reached New Zealand ; 
 while others proceeding westward, by way of Kaiatea and Tahiti, 
 and then northward, ultimately arrived at the Sandwich Islands, 
 and gave the name of the land they had left to the home they had 
 found. 
 
 Not less remarkable is the extension of this language westward 
 to Madagascar. The western point of this island is not three 
 hundred miles from the shores of Africa, yet but comparatively 
 few words of African origin have been found in the language of 
 its inhabitants. On the other hand, the nearest island of the Asi- 
 atic Archipelago is 3000 miles to the eastward of Madagascar, and 
 yet the resemblance between the language spoken by their respect- 
 ive inhabitants is as close as between that of the former and the 
 Eastern Polynesians. All the Malagasy words already adduced 
 as Polynesian are also Malayan words, and the list of words ap- 
 parently identical in all three might be greatly increased. Con- 
 siderable differences, nevertheless, exist among the dialects spread 
 over so vast a surface ; but all of them contain words which seem 
 to have belonged to some of the earliest languages, such as the 
 word for father, in Malagasy, Idba, and fiaba, papa, or pa, through- 
 out Eastern Polynesia and the Asiatic Archipelago. Some of the 
 words are said to be identical with the Sanscrit, others with the 
 Hebrew and Arabic, which, without affording grounds for con- 
 cluding that the language was derived from either of these, would 
 seem to warrant the inference that it is not of modern origin. 
 
 Many words are found in two of these languages, and not in the 
 third. Thus some words in Malagasy are identical with those in 
 Polynesia, but are not found in the Asiatic Archipelago ; and the 
 same occurs in the agreement between the two latter, as in the
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 501 
 
 word vai or wai, ayer, signifying water, which are common to the 
 Malayan and Polynesian, but are unknown in Madagascar, where 
 the name for water is rano ; but in one or more of the islands of 
 the Archipelago dano and rano signifies water. In other instances, 
 the identity is more evident in words common to the Archipelago 
 and Madagascar, but unknown in the other languages, as in orang 
 and olona, the word for man : masin, also, is the word for salt in 
 both these languages. But the most conclusive evidence of iden- 
 tity is found in the numerals, which, with but few exceptions and 
 exceedingly slight variations, prevail throughout the whole range 
 of the language. This will appear by glancing over the subjoined 
 lists, two of which are from the Asiatic Archipelago, one from 
 Madagascar, and the other from Eastern Polynesia. 
 
 English. 
 
 Malay. 
 
 Nias. Malagasy. 
 
 Takitian. 
 
 one 
 
 sata 
 
 sara 
 
 isa 
 
 tahi. 
 
 two 
 
 dna 
 
 dua 
 
 roa* 
 
 ma. 
 
 three 
 
 tiga 
 
 tula 
 
 telo 
 
 toru. 
 
 four 
 
 ampat 
 
 ufa 
 
 efatra 
 
 maha. 
 
 five 
 
 lima 
 
 lima 
 
 dimy 
 
 rima. 
 
 six 
 
 anam 
 
 unu and ano 
 
 enina 
 
 ono. 
 
 seven 
 
 tujuh 
 
 fitu 
 
 fitu 
 
 hitu. 
 
 eight 
 
 dilapa 
 
 walu 
 
 valo 
 
 varu. 
 
 nine 
 
 simbelan 
 
 suva 
 
 sivy 
 
 iva. 
 
 ten 
 
 pulu 
 
 fulu 
 
 folo 
 
 burn. 
 
 Traces of the numerals and other parts of this language also 
 exist in the languages of the races inhabiting Western Polynesia, 
 whose language is said to resemble those of some African tribes. 
 
 Few things appear more remarkable in connection with this 
 language than the length of time during Which so large a portion 
 of it has been preserved among small detached communities, in 
 regions widely separated, and destitute of any means of intercourse 
 with each other. Sir George Grey expresses it as his opinion 
 that the traditions and mythology of New Zealand have existed 
 among the inhabitants of the islands of the Pacific Ocean for a 
 period considerably above two thousand years, and the language 
 * The o in all Malagasy words is pronounced as u.
 
 502 APPENDIX. 
 
 in which those traditions are preserved must have had an earlier 
 origin. The antiquity of this language is the more wonderful when 
 we remember that it is, with the exception of that portion which 
 prevails in the Archipelago, an oral language. 
 
 The languages of Polynesia were only spoken languages, and 
 the language of Madagascar was, until within the last forty years, 
 an unwritten language. The Portuguese, by whom the island 
 was discovered, and its other early visitors, found no hieroglyph- 
 ics, picture-writing, or other kind of record among its inhabitants ; 
 and subsequent intercourse has furnished no evidence of the knowl- 
 edge of letters ever having existed among the native population. 
 It is true that, long before Europeans had passed round the Cape 
 of Good Hope, Moors and Arabs had visited Madagascar for pur- 
 poses of commerce, and had settled in small numbers on several 
 parts of the coast. These Arabs and other traders brought with 
 them their own written language, which they used in their mer- 
 cantile transactions with the people. They probably attempted 
 also to teach it to some of the natives ; but it was only the lan- 
 guage of the strangers that was written, and its use appears to 
 have been confined to the localities in which they temporarily re- 
 sided. No vestiges remain of the oral language of these traders 
 beyond a few terms connected chiefly with divination, astrology, 
 and other usages of Arabic origin. The introduction of letters 
 early in the present century, their rapidly extended use among 
 the people, the formation of grammars exhibiting the peculiarity 
 of the several parts of speech, do not seem to have produced any 
 change in the language as used by the people themselves ; and the 
 language of Madagascar appears to retain at the present time all 
 the distinctive qualities by which it was characterized when brought 
 by the first settlers to the country, excepting so far as it may have 
 been modified by themselves. The few new words which foreign 
 objects have rendered necessary have been so altered, in order to 
 adapt them to native use, as to leave but little resemblance to 
 their original forms. 
 
 This language exhibits a singular instance, paradoxical as it 
 may appear, of a people in a comparatively low grade of civiliza-
 
 APPENDIX. 503 
 
 tion possessing and using a language copious, precise, and in some 
 respects highly philosophical. And this circumstance naturally 
 suggests deeply-interesting inquiries, not only in reference to the 
 origin of the races now inhabiting that country, but also in rela- 
 tion to those of other countries existing in similar circumstances, 
 and with the peculiarities and affinities of whose languages the 
 pioneers of religion and civilization are daily increasing our ac- 
 quaintance, and thus adding new evidences of the unity of the 
 human race. 
 
 In contemplating the peculiarities of the Malagasy language, it 
 seems scarcely possible to avoid associating ethnological with phi- 
 lological inquiries, and we feel impelled to ask whether the races 
 by which this language is now spoken have been derived from a 
 parent race possessing at the period of their separation, whenever 
 such separation may have taken place, a high degree of civiliza- 
 tion, and whether they have passed along a gradually descending - 
 scale until they have reached the depressed level at which indubi- 
 table traces of that parent language are still found ? And far- 
 ther, we are inclined to ask, is the language of a people, when 
 highly cultivated, retained by scattered portions of that people 
 long after other elements of the civilization of the parent race 
 have ceased among its widely-separated descendants? It seems 
 scarcely possible that the natives of Madagascar, certainly not the 
 lowest of the races among whose language a large infusion of their 
 own is to be found, should have been derived from a people in a 
 lower grade of civilization than themselves. A lower civilization 
 would not have required, and could scarcely have admitted, the 
 use of a language of such precision of structure and harmony of 
 combination as that of Madagascar exhibits. Internal evidence 
 would thus seem to favor the opinion that the Malagasy was de- 
 rived from a language rich, flexible, and exact, which must have 
 belonged to a civilized people, whose intellectual culture it reflect- 
 ed. Such opinion seems to have been entertained by Raffles, 
 Humboldt, Leyden, Crawford, and others, who have directed their 
 inquiries to the migrations of the races by whom this language is 
 used. Baron Humboldt, brother of the celebrated traveler, thus
 
 504 APPENDIX. 
 
 expresses his opinion on this subject : " There is no doubt that the 
 Malagasy belongs to the family of the Malayan languages, and 
 bears the greatest affinity to the languages spoken in Java, Suma- 
 tra, and the whole Indian Archipelago. But it remains entirely 
 enigmatical in what manner and at what period this Malayan pop- 
 ulation has made its way to Madagascar. Of Sanscrit words 
 there is a certain number in the Malagasy language."* The pe- 
 riod at which this migration took place still remains unknown; 
 but the evidence which tradition affords that the vessels of the 
 Polynesian races were formerly much larger than they are at pres- 
 ent, and the number of well-authenticated instances of long voy- 
 ages and vast distances being traversed by the natives of Polynesia 
 in recent years, leave little room for doubt as to the means by 
 which they have spread themselves over the widely-extended re- 
 gions which they now occupy. 
 
 But few verbal coincidences have yet been discovered between 
 the Malagasy and the languages of the adjacent coast of Africa. 
 "We are not, however, to conclude that no resemblances exist, for 
 we know but little of the languages of the eastern coast of Africa. 
 The few coincidences which have been traced are interesting, and 
 throw light upon important events in the past history of the Mal- 
 agasy. There does not seem to be any resemblance in verbal 
 form or grammatical structure between the Malagasy and the lan- 
 guages spoken on the eastern coast of Africa to the southward of 
 Delagoa Bay ; but there appears to be a resemblance amounting 
 to identity between a number of words used by the Malagasy and 
 the natives of the Mozambique coast and of the adjacent interior ; 
 while, with one or two exceptions, no resemblance can be traced 
 to words of corresponding import in Malayan or Polynesian. In 
 Koelle's " Polyglotta Africana" the following words appear, which 
 are almost identical with the same words in Malagasy : 
 
 * Appendix to Hist, of Madagascar, vol. I, p. 492.
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 505 
 
 English. African. 
 
 eyes maso Marawi dialect 
 
 " mazo Nyambanco dialect 
 
 cow or ox nombe thirteen different 
 dialects with slight vari- 
 ations 
 ( mbusi ~\ 
 
 goat -I mbozi I 
 (^ mboz J 
 
 fowl koku and kuku 
 
 cat paka 
 
 dog mboa in twelve different di- 
 
 alects, with few and very 
 slight variations 
 
 Malagasy. Malayan. 
 
 ombe, or 
 omby 
 
 osy 
 
 mata 
 
 lembu and 
 
 sapl 
 
 kambing 
 
 burong 
 kuching 
 
 akohu 
 saka and 
 
 kary 
 amboa and anjing 
 
 alikia 
 
 Horned cattle and dogs, wild and tame, appear to have existed 
 from a remote period in Madagascar; and ombe or omly is the 
 name for cattle both wild and tame, though they are different from 
 each other, the tame cattle belonging to the zebu species being 
 distinguished by the lump between the shoulders, and the immense 
 herds of wild cattle which exist in the unfrequented parts of the 
 island having straight backs like the cattle of Europe. Amboa is 
 the name for the domesticated dog, and also for the wild dog of 
 the forest. These and the other Malagasy names of animals above 
 specified are evidently of African origin, and favor the opinion that 
 the animals which they designate were derived from the same 
 country. Increased acquaintance with the languages of Africa 
 will probably furnish additional evidence of the relationship be- 
 tween the inhabitants of Madagascar and those of the adjacent 
 continent, and may perhaps assist in tracing the origin of the Ne- 
 grito races of Polynesia. - 
 
 In Madagascar itself different dialects exist. The spoken lan- 
 guage of the Hovas and others inhabiting the interior provinces 
 differs from that on the coasts where the ng is frequently used. 
 Still, in its verbal form and grammatical structure, one language 
 may be said to pervade the entire country ; and though the intro- 
 duction of letters has been confined to the language of the Hovas,
 
 506 APPENDIX. 
 
 and dictionaries and grammars exist in that language alone, these 
 may be regarded as exhibiting the peculiar features of the language 
 of the whole island. 
 
 The great peculiarity of the structure of this language consists 
 hi the facility, uniformity, and precision with which, by means of 
 prefixes and affixes, the roots or primitive words of the language 
 may, according to fixed rules, be rendered capable of expressing 
 different meanings to an extent that is truly astonishing. The 
 Eev. D. Griffiths, in his Malagasy and English Grammar, the latest 
 and most extensive grammar yet published, states that some single 
 roots will produce two hundred words of different orthography and 
 signification. There is nothing approaching to this extent of com- 
 pound words in any of the Polynesian dialects ; and minute dis- 
 tinctions seem redundant in the Malagasy when we are told that 
 there are twenty different words for expressing the manner of 
 growth of the horns of an ox, and thirty words to signify the sev- 
 eral modes in which the natives plait their hair. This multipli- 
 cation of words for varying shades of meaning, and the facili ty of 
 forming many compound words from a single root, adds to the 
 copiousness of the language, which often combines conciseness 
 with great precision of meaning. - Thus, mody is " to go home," 
 tampody, " to go out and return home the same day." 
 
 Much precision of meaning is often manifest in the use of nouns 
 formed from adjectives of quality, as, ratsy, bad ; haratsiana, bad- 
 ness, wickedness in the abstract ; faharatsiana, wickedness in ac- 
 tion : foam, good ; hatsarana, goodness in the abstract ; fahatsarana, 
 goodness in operation. Thus, hatsarana is an attribute of God 
 his essential goodness ; fahatsarana is his goodness in action the 
 benevolence he exercises. 
 
 Most of the words are compound words, but some are roots, and 
 exist in no simpler form. The roots generally consist of words 
 of two or three syllables, but in some cases of only one, and for 
 the most part they are nouns or passive participles. Most of the 
 roots and compound words are occasionally doubled, which in- 
 creases or diminishes the force of the original word. 
 
 To the language of Madagascar, as well as to those of Poly-
 
 APPENDIX. 507 
 
 nesia, the missionaries have judiciously adapted the Roman char- 
 acter ; and though there are a few sounds which seem to be inter- 
 mediate between those expressed by two consonants in European 
 languages, or to blend two consonants in one sound, this apparent 
 inconvenience is of little consequence when compared with the 
 obvious advantages of the Roman letters. 
 
 The Malagasy alphabet consists of twenty-one letters sixteen 
 consonants and five vowels. The i and y have the same sound, 
 but the latter is uniformly the terminal vowel. The letters omit- 
 ted from the English alphabet are C, Q, V, W, and Z. G is al- 
 ways pronounced hard, as in go. C is expressed by S or K. U 
 is expressed by io. The Continental pronunciation is given to the 
 vowels. The sound usually attached to the letter u in French, 
 and in the English word rule, is of very frequent occurrence ; but 
 the letter u is omitted in the Malagasy alphabet, and the sound 
 usually expressed by u is signified by o. This causes different 
 sounds to be represented by the same letter, and presents also to 
 the eye of the European reader the sign of a sound which is not 
 pronounced, and would thus seem likely to increase the difficulty 
 of teaching European languages to the natives ; but the letter u 
 may easily be added to the Malagasy alphabet whenever the re- 
 quirements of the people render it desirable, and the letter o be 
 then employed only to express its usual sound in other languages. 
 
 The sounds of the Malagasy language are more mascuh'ne and 
 forcible than those of Polynesia, but scarcely less harmonious. 
 Consonants occur much more frequently in the former ; and 
 though, as a general rule, each syllable consists of a consonant 
 and vowel, a number of double consonants, which readily coalesce 
 in one sound, and allow of easy articulation, are admitted ; such 
 as, dr, tr, mb, mp, nd, ndr, ng, nj, nk, nt, and nts. Hence, also, for 
 the sake of euphony, several consonants are changed when they 
 follow other consonants : thus, /changes into/) after m; h changes 
 into k after n ; I changes into d after n, and t changes into d after 
 n ; v changes into b after m ; v changes into d after w, and z 
 changes into j after n ; nr assumes d, and becomes ndr ; and t is 
 inserted after n before s, as in sivy (intsivy), " nine times."
 
 508 APPENDIX. 
 
 The syllables, with the exceptions above specified, usually con- 
 sist of a consonant and a vowel, and the uniform vowel termina- 
 tions of the words gives a peculiar softness and harmony to the 
 tones of native speech. The vowels at the end of the words are 
 often so slightly sounded as to be scarcely perceptible to the ear 
 of a stranger unacquainted with the structure of the language. 
 
 Thero is but one article in the language ny, which is definite ; 
 the noun without the article is indefinite. 
 
 The nouns are roots, derivatives, or compounds, and admit of 
 no inflections to signify number, case, or gender. These are in- 
 dicated by words added to the noun, as the ordinal numbers or 
 adjectives of number. Case is indicated by the position of the 
 noun in the sentence or the use of prepositions, and gender is de- 
 termined by the addition of the word Idhy for male, and vavy for 
 female. Most of the nouns are derivatives from either verbs or 
 adjectives. Those from verbs correspond in signification with the 
 meaning of the part of the verb whence they are taken, as, anatra, 
 instruction ; mianatra, to learn ; fanarana, means of instruction, 
 as copy or lesson ; mpianatra, scholar ; mpampianatra, teacher. 
 
 Adjectives are not numerous, and they admit of no inflection. 
 Some are roots ; as, tsara, good ; ratsy, bad. Many are formed 
 by affixing ma to the roots ; as, loto, filth ; maloto, dirty ; dio, pu- 
 rity ; madio, pure, uncontaminated. Adjectives usually follow the 
 noun ; as, trano avo, house lofty ; rano marivo, water shallow ; but 
 they admit of being placed before the noun with the article inter- 
 vening ; as, avo ny trano, lofty (is) the house ; marivo mj rano, 
 shallow (is) the water. The comparative degree is formed by the 
 addition of the word noho, or repeating the positive and adding 
 the word koTcoa ; as, foam, good ; tsara noho izy, better than he ; 
 or, tsara tsara kokoa, better. The superlative is formed by adding 
 the word indrindra, exceedingly; as, tsara indrindra, best; or, 
 tsara dia tsara, good, indeed good, best. 
 
 The Malagasy system of numbers is singularly extensive and 
 complete, enabling the natives to express cardinal numbers with 
 great facility and precision, to an extent far beyond what their 
 present state of civilization would seem to require ; and they are
 
 APPENDIX. 500 
 
 generally great adepts in calculation. The first ten numbers are 
 independent words. The numbers from 10 to 100, zato, are ex- 
 pressed by adding the units to folo, the word for ten, which, for 
 the sake of euphony, is changed into polo. Thus, twenty, two 
 tens, is roapolo. The hundreds up to a thousand, arivo, are count- 
 ed in the same manner. The thousands in the same manner pro- 
 duce the myriad, alina ; and thence to a hundred thousand and a 
 million. The word ambiny, signifying add, is inserted between 
 the units and the tens ; and, in reciting, the numbers always com- 
 mence with, the lowest, or unit, and rise to the highest. Thus, 
 iraik anibiny folo, one add ten, viz., eleven ; or, roambi telopolo, am- 
 lizato, two add three tens, add one hundred, viz., a hundred and 
 thirty-two. 
 
 The cardinal numbers are : 
 
 z'.s-rt, and 
 
 iray 
 
 roa 
 
 telo 
 
 efatra 
 
 dimy 
 
 The ordinals are formed by prefixing voa to the first and faJia 
 to the other cardinal numbers, thus ; 
 
 
 enina 
 
 6 
 
 zato 
 
 100 hundred 
 
 
 fito 
 
 7 
 
 arivo 
 
 1,000 thousand 
 
 2 
 
 valo 
 
 8 
 
 alina 
 
 10,000 ten thousand 
 
 3 
 
 sivy 
 
 9 
 
 hetsy 
 
 100,000 hundred thousand 
 
 4 
 
 folo 
 
 10 
 
 tapitrisa 
 
 1,000,000 million 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 
 
 voalahany first 
 faharoa second 
 
 fahapoh tenth 
 
 fahazato hundredth 
 
 fahatelo third 
 
 Fractional parts are expressed by prefixing ampatra, as am- 
 patraroa, a second (part) ; ampatratelo, a third (part). 
 
 The number of times is expressed by prefixing in to the cardi- 
 nal numbers ; thus, indroa, twice ; intelo, thrice ; imato, a hundred 
 times. The number of days is signified by prefixing ha or he to 
 the cardinal number, and changing the termination into ana; 
 thus: 
 
 hateloana three days 
 
 hadimiana five days 
 
 hqfitoana seven days 
 
 Or they simply prefix the number to the word for day ; as, roa 
 andro, two days.
 
 510 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 The pronouns are some of them numerous, especially the de- 
 monstrative, which are often apparently adverbs of place. The 
 personal pronouns are : 
 
 Nominative Case. 
 
 Singular. 
 
 1st Person izaho, or aho I 
 
 2d " hianaa them 
 
 3d " izy he, she, or it 
 
 Plural. 
 
 1st Pers. isikia 
 
 izaJiay 
 
 2d " hianareo 
 
 we, including the 
 speaker and par- 
 ties spoken to. 
 
 we, excluding the 
 party spoken to, 
 but including 
 the speaker and 
 party spoken of. 
 
 ye, or you. 
 
 3d " izy, orizarcoihej. 
 
 Possessive inseparable Affixes. 
 
 ko, o 
 nao, ao 
 ny 
 
 1st Pers. Sing. 
 2d " 
 3d " 
 1st Pers. Plural ntsikia 
 " nay, ay 
 
 2d " nareo, areo 
 
 3d " ny 
 
 my, of me, by me. 
 
 thy, of thee, by thee. 
 
 his, hers, its, by him, etc. 
 
 our, by us, including speaker and spoken to. 
 
 our, by us, excluding the party spoken to. 
 
 your, by you. 
 
 their, by them. 
 
 1st Pers. Sing. 
 
 2d " anao 
 
 3d " azy 
 
 1st Pers. Plural antsiki 
 
 " anay 
 
 2d ' ' anareo 
 
 3d " azy 
 
 Objective governed by Active Verbs, 
 ahy 
 
 me. 
 
 thee. 
 
 him, her, it. 
 
 we, including speaker and party spoken to. 
 
 we, excluding the party spoken to. 
 
 ye. 
 
 them. 
 
 The demonstrative pronouns, which are abundant, add greatly 
 to the precision of meaning by pointing out definitively the posi- 
 tion, nearness, or distance of the persons or things spoken of. 
 The following are examples : ao, there, at a short distance ; eo, 
 there, nearer at hand ; to, close by, this one ; itsy, this, or there ; 
 ity, this ; iny, that ; itikitra, this, in this place ; iretsy, those ; irery, 
 those within sight, but more distant than iretsy ; irony, these;
 
 APPENDIX. 511 
 
 izato, this one ; ircroa, those yonder. Besides these there are rel- 
 ative pronouns : izay and izany, both meaning that or which ; also 
 interrogative pronouns : iza, zovy, who, which ; inona, what ; na- 
 hoana, why ; alcory, how, etc. 
 
 Among the verbs there is one substantive verb, misy, signifying 
 there is, or there are ; and there are three others which are used 
 as auxiliaries, viz., mety, mahay, and maliazo. Mcty signifies right, 
 fit, lawful. Mahay signifies knowledge, skill, ability. Mahazo 
 signifies to get, to obtain physical ability. 
 
 The moods of the verbs are the indicative and the imperative, 
 the subjunctive and potential being formed of the indicative, with 
 parts of the auxiliary verb. The tenses are past, present, and 
 future. Additional tenses expressive of more definite time than 
 past and future are formed by certain particles and parts of the 
 substantive verb. The tenses are formed by the change of the 
 initial letters and auxiliary particles. 
 
 The roots of the verbs are usually of a participial nature ; some 
 of these are also nouns. The nouns are used with the article ny 
 prefixed. These roots are used as verbs by the addition of forma- 
 tives, among which are the following prefixing the word voa (ua 
 in Polynesian), which signifies done, completed by some external 
 agent, not by any internal process. By adding ena, ina, ana, or 
 aina, and sometimes vina, to the root, the signification is particip- 
 ial. By prefixing mi to the root, also by prefixing mampi to the 
 root, this expresses the cause ; and farther, by prefixing mifampi, 
 which signifies reciprocity of cause, as, 
 
 misotro I drink. 
 
 mampisotro I cause another to drink. 
 
 mifampisotro they cause one another to drink. 
 
 There are a number of other forms of verbs. The subjoined 
 paradigm of a regular verb will convey some idea of the precision 
 and extent to which a single root can be used.
 
 512 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 
 
 o 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 y 
 
 
 1 F. in mampampan 
 
 mampampanolo 
 nampampanolo 
 hampampanolo 
 ampampanoloina 
 nampampanoloina 
 hampampanoloina 
 
 mampampanolda 
 aoka hampampanol 
 ampampanoloy 
 
 hampampanolo 
 
 ampampanoloana 
 nampampanoloana 
 hampampanoloana 
 
 fampampanolo 
 mpampampanolo 
 fampampanoloana 
 
 1" 
 1 
 
 5 
 
 g 
 
 'mampifampanolo 
 nampifampanolo 
 hamjlifampanolo 
 
 
 
 o 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 F. in mampan 
 
 mampanolo . 
 nampanolo . 
 hampanolo . 
 ampanoloina . 
 nampanoloina 
 hampanoloina 
 
 mampanoloa . 
 aoka hampanol 
 ampanoloy . 
 
 hampanolo . 
 
 ampanoloana 
 nampanoloana 
 hampanoloana 
 
 fampanolo 
 mpampanolo . 
 fampanoloana 
 
 S 
 f 
 
 5 
 
 .a 
 
 mampifanolo . 
 nampifanolo . 
 hampifanolo . 
 
 
 03 03 
 
 
 
 
 
 . 
 
 ' 
 
 
 e: a a 
 
 o 
 
 
 
 
 , 
 
 
 "S 
 
 .2 o o 
 
 '2*3 
 
 
 
 
 t^ 
 
 o 
 
 & 
 
 O *Q 'Q 
 
 o .2 
 
 
 c3 e5 
 
 *t 
 
 D 
 
 r2 O 
 
 e 
 g 
 
 s 
 
 -3 ,2 ^ &.'*'* 
 S o o z** H a 
 s M S2 a o3 cs 
 g-'p,'p, o3 a -a 
 
 all^T 
 
 mampisolda 
 aoka hampis 
 jo. imp. amp 
 
 hampisolo . 
 
 sea 
 
 P| 
 "3 m .2 
 
 .2 'P.' PH 
 
 g^a a 
 
 UJ 
 
 fampisolo . 
 mpampisolo 
 fampisoloani 
 
 S 
 S 
 
 mifampifano 
 nifampifanol 
 
 hifainpifauo] 
 
 
 
 . . . 
 
 
 
 . 
 
 . . . 
 
 . 
 
 s. 
 
 . . . 
 
 *e 
 
 . . . 
 
 ~ 
 
 . 
 
 a <s 
 
 . 
 
 s 
 
 
 g; 
 
 
 
 
 cs B a 
 
 _^ 
 
 ^v 
 
 3.2-2 
 
 R 
 
 ^ O 
 
 NO 43 
 
 o 
 
 
 
 -3 
 
 'i 
 
 P 1 
 
 * 
 
 g'o'o 
 
 O j-j - 
 
 "o 
 
 p2 o o 
 
 
 
 
 g-p-cL 
 
 K* 
 
 ol 
 
 Cj 
 
 c$ 
 
 o ^ 2 
 
 S 
 
 
 s a a 
 
 
 111 
 
 a B-a 
 
 11 
 
 1 
 
 43*^-3 
 
 03 B43 
 
 c3 
 S* 
 
 ^ 
 
 III 
 
 . SB a 
 
 
 . 
 
 .e 
 
 
 
 
 's, 
 
 * * 
 
 i 
 
 
 al 
 
 
 e! C5 
 
 <3 a a 
 
 B 03 o5 
 
 'o| 
 
 I 
 
 ^0 
 
 
 ,2 js jo 
 
 r2 5 
 
 J3 
 
 c3 JOJD 
 
 o g o 
 
 g 
 
 .22 t r y* 
 
 ^SJ 
 
 111 
 
 1^ 
 
 *O 
 2 
 
 ,2 "3 "3 
 
 o 2 OT 
 
 
 i 
 
 I^'!* 
 
 ^ 
 
 S c 
 
 5 03 03 
 
 a a J3 
 
 ^ ^ 
 
 il 
 
 C3 
 
 1 
 
 Qb 03 fla 
 
 03 B B 
 B o3 o3 
 03 B43 
 
 ci 03 c3 
 
 a P.a 
 
 ^ 
 
 a 'a '.a 
 
 s 
 
 1 
 
 o 
 
 " 
 
 
 . . . 
 
 
 
 
 e 
 
 
 "3 
 
 
 * OS oS 
 
 
 
 JSL 
 
 
 E 
 5 
 
 -3.2-2 
 
 
 ^0 
 Q 
 
 03 B B 
 
 a cs cs 
 
 ci 
 
 2 *3 o 
 
 
 
 of J 
 
 5 
 
 ,2 
 
 11 
 
 5 a a 
 
 U 
 
 1 i i 
 
 a B43 
 
 o 
 
 g 
 
 o a a 
 
 B 03 03 
 03 a 43 
 
 -3 es "o 
 B P. a 
 6.2 
 
 
 
 <2 
 
 a - S3 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 03 c3 
 
 ... 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 o 
 
 
 03 a a 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 B 03 03 
 
 
 
 
 
 i.2 
 
 -Q 
 
 
 03 O O 
 
 " ' 05 
 
 
 ^00 
 
 
 goo 
 
 cS *^ 
 
 
 ,2-3-3 
 
 JD a 
 
 
 g *H -3 
 
 'g 
 
 'a 'a 3 
 
 -3 05 
 
 <i 
 
 o .2 .2 
 
 8 J 
 
 t S* 
 
 6 'S3 
 
 
 
 
 "^ ^^ 
 
 .i 
 
 
 O 'p, 
 
 ft 
 
 
 S 
 
 R,a,S 
 
 a 
 
 
 a,a,S 
 
 s a* 
 
 S 
 
 <a.S 
 
 
 
 <^-v+^ 
 
 V 
 
 ^~ 
 
 ^ v ^' 
 
 "*-v~""* 
 
 ! 
 
 ^*"^"*"' 
 
 
 
 S 
 
 
 e 
 
 
 
 
 
 S 
 
 
 Jt3 
 
 'S 
 * 1 
 
 
 
 r 
 
 '- 
 
 
 || 
 
 || 
 
 11 
 
 1^ 
 
 i 
 
 
 II 
 
 
 S 
 
 s 
 
 s 
 
 <5 
 
 
 
 
 ^
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 513 
 
 * | J. J3 
 
 c3 03 
 
 cj B E 
 
 .2 '5 'S 
 
 ill 
 
 
 
 r OJ 
 03 B C 
 B 03 cS 
 S O 
 
 "o 
 
 
 4 < 
 
 l S' 3 ^ | ^ 
 
 .S'o'o 
 
 2 a 
 
 "3 
 
 .2'S'o 
 
 
 
 (D ( 
 
 ^ u __ l s -^ S o ; 
 
 ampifampano 
 nampifampan 
 hampifampan 
 
 mampifampai 
 aoka hampifa 
 ampifampa 
 
 hampifampan 
 
 ampifampano 
 nampifampan 
 hampifampan 
 
 mpampifampj 
 
 3 
 v 
 
 ** ' C cs -^5 to" 6C 
 
 a *3 . | S 1 3 . * i 
 
 0. .& fr'f ipj *1 
 g .O^gSoSlg" 
 
 ampifanoloina . 
 nampifano'loina . 
 hampifanoloina . 
 
 mampifanoloa . 
 aoka hampifanolo 
 ampifanoloy . 
 
 hamptfanolo . . 
 
 ampifanoloana . 
 nampifanoloana . 
 hampifanoloana . 
 
 fampifanolo . . 
 mpifampifanolo . 
 fifampifanoloana 
 
 s 
 
 1 
 
 M r\t ^ o 3 *** *w ^ ^ *y S 
 
 J^3 <jj ^.^O ^ ^oCo 
 O *^ c3 w ;t3 o 'O c3 *^ c3 O 
 
 1 8 Is la'-SSil-T 
 
 OS 03 03 S S 
 
 
 o 
 
 . 
 
 
 
 
 
 Ig 
 
 C- ;- 
 
 1 8 o3 ei 
 
 R, 
 
 mifampifanolda 
 aok a hifampifanol 
 ifampifanoloy 
 
 hifampifanolo 
 
 ifampifanoloana 
 nifampifanoloana 
 hifampifanoloana 
 
 fifampifanolo . 
 mpifampifanolo 
 fifampifanoloana 
 
 2 
 
 ^s 
 s 
 
 S 
 
 t 
 
 > 
 
 'i 
 
 
 
 5 S mm 
 
 g 2 w^ ij 2 
 
 1 1- .1 1 II 2 
 
 a ^sjg -s. i 
 
 rt Q ^S O ^i. _O 
 
 
 * .2 
 ."3 . 
 
 
 e3 rt 
 
 
 S 
 
 T3 r 
 
 9 
 
 ji"f Is ^ 
 
 
 mifampanolda 
 aoka hifampan 
 ifampanoloy 
 
 hifampanolo 
 
 ifampanoloana 
 nifampanoloan; 
 hifampanoloan 
 
 fifampanolo 
 mpifampanolo 
 fifampanoloam 
 
 s 
 
 1, 
 
 1 
 
 M 
 
 *M 
 
 i^-t r 1 
 
 **** a ^ 
 
 '"ill 1 1 1 -f 1 
 
 
 . o 
 
 
 
 . 
 
 
 
 
 5 *. O cj p^. 
 
 
 "3 
 
 
 03 c3 
 
 03 
 
 'g 
 
 3 
 
 S^'oSaoosg^ 
 
 
 
 
 cS C fl 
 
 o a 
 
 ^> 
 
 
 
 
 *rt "^ O 
 
 
 B oS o3 
 
 " J C3 
 
 'S 
 
 pS *r^ - 
 
 - 11 cs> *S *r^ 5 i ^ o t 
 
 
 3 e "3 
 MM* 
 
 "3 
 
 c3 _O jO 
 
 ,2 J 
 o'S.o 
 
 
 C iJ3 g g "~ S 
 03 o3 05 03 0} 
 
 
 PA & 
 
 i 
 
 01 '2,' a, 
 
 .2 g -2 
 
 8 
 
 ^ 
 f 
 
 r r: 2 s s 
 4 Mjq m -^ 
 
 
 S ****^ ^ 
 
 g 
 
 'a a a 
 
 S3 * "^ ! 
 
 e 
 
 
 
 
 llT 
 
 1 
 3 
 
 G^ ~ " 
 
 Ja'S^S 
 
 Ill 
 
 w 
 1 1 1 1 1 1 
 
 
 o 
 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 * 
 
 i 03 3 
 
 
 *o 
 
 <gj5- 
 
 
 a o3 
 
 03 S3 fl 
 e S3 03 
 
 pj 
 
 g 
 
 o'fc . w M 
 
 O) XJ > ..-!>, 
 ** C3 ^J CJD ^~ 
 
 O CT ^3 " *a 
 
 
 ^2 h: --s 
 
 ^o 
 
 OS 
 
 of o 
 
 ^2 
 
 
 ??!-! . O 
 
 ' 
 
 cs .03 
 
 
 
 ^"o"o 
 ^ c a 
 
 'o.os "3 
 
 B5tt S3 
 
 a 
 
 ^(^--^j -&-35J 
 
 ^ g S '"S S 2 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 
 
 S IS .0 3 S 
 
 
 BS'T 
 
 3 
 
 ^'S3 
 
 2 SS 
 
 t 
 
 T^ 
 
 3 52 to ffi r3 -2 x 
 
 5 * -O -P '~ 
 
 
 
 
 oS 03 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 0} , ! 
 
 | S g S g jg o 
 
 
 Q 
 
 
 03 C O 
 
 
 r^ 
 
 I-* p^p- 
 
 
 
 |3| 
 
 
 B 03 03 
 
 
 pU 
 
 4-1 1 
 
 i^Oj S^JCjS;: 
 
 I 
 
 * S 
 
 
 5 ^O 
 
 OJ 
 
 
 -~ p. r 
 
 
 
 cs -a 
 
 
 ,2 "3 "3 
 
 2 a 
 
 ^ e" <i> S> Tu-5-So 
 hi? js -r.SJ ^ 2 " 2; 
 
 "^ "^ O O iS .4 O JJ '*' "In "T 1 v H ,-j ** 
 
 
 "g 
 
 a 
 
 t5.a,S 
 
 < B 
 
 
 r. OS 
 
 . * ^ do Y-S ' 
 
 
 w^v^ 
 
 ^- 
 
 v-^V-^x 
 
 ^*-v^^ 
 
 
 ^o *-> * 
 
 . * B H -^'""los 
 
 
 E 
 
 
 t e 
 
 
 
 M J2* c 
 
 ^ IC *">''S! B a "*Sp2 g 
 
 
 VS>{ 
 
 s >i 
 
 ft. 33 
 
 
 
 t O c 
 
 r* C ^^5 os cj cT-S S *- 
 
 
 "3 
 
 
 
 
 
 T _ 
 
 
 
 
 J^ 11 1 i 1 111"! "1 " i*" 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 0, 
 
 {^ 
 
 
 
 
 S 
 
 KK
 
 5H APPENDIX. 
 
 Without extending these remarks, which are only intended to 
 convey a general notice of some of the peculiarities of the lan- 
 guage, it may be observed that the natives generally speak their 
 own language correctly ; that public speaking is frequently prac- 
 ticed, and good speaking highly appreciated. The proceedings 
 of the government are announced in public meetings or national 
 assemblies. Courts of justice are always open, and suitors plead 
 their own causes. No native literature yet exists ; but songs and 
 proverbs are numerous, the latter often sententious, pointed, and 
 forcible. The missionaries appear to have found no difficulty in 
 expressing any ideas they wished to convey to the minds of the 
 people. The subjoined translation of the Lord's Prayer into 
 Malagasy will give some idea of the structure of the language : 
 
 Rainay Izay any an-danitra, Hasino ny anaranao. Ampandrosoy ny 
 fanjakanao. Atavy ny sitrapo-nao aty an-tany, tahaky ny any an-danitra. 
 Omeo anay anio izay hanina sahaza ho anay. Ary mamelk ny trosanay, 
 tahaky ny famelanay ny mitrosa aminay. Ary aza mitarikia anay ho amy 
 ny, fakam-panahy, fa manafaha anay amy ny ratsy : F' Anao ny fanjakana. 
 sy ny hery, ary ny voninahitra, mandrakizay. Araena. Matt., vi., 9-13. 
 
 THE END.
 
 LA PLATA: 
 
 THE ARGENTINE CONFEDERATION 
 
 ASI> 
 
 PARAGUAY. 
 
 Being a Narrative of the Exploration of the Tributaries of the River La 
 Plata and Adjacent Countries, during the Years 1853, '54, '55, and '56, 
 under the Orders of the United States Government. By THOMAS J. 
 PAGE, U.S.N., Commander of the Expedition. One Volume Large 
 Octavo, with Map and numerous Illustrations. Muslin, $3 00. 
 
 This Volume contains the Official Narrative of one of the most important Expeditions 
 ever sent out by our Government. The vast region drained by the liiver La Plata and its 
 tributaries was closed to commerce and navigation by the rigid Colonial Laws of Spain, 
 the civil wars which followed the Independence, and the subsequent selfish policy of 
 Rosas, the tyrant of Buenos Ayres. After the defeat and flight of Rosas, one of the first 
 acts of Urquiza, the able and enlightened Director of the Argentine Confederation, was 
 the decree of August 28, 1S52, declaring the waters of the Confederation free to the flags 
 of all nations. 
 
 Our Government was the first to avail itself of this decree. Early In 1853 the steamer 
 Water Witch was placed under the command of Lieutenant PAGE, with instructions to ex- 
 plore the Rivers of La Plata, and report upon their navigability and adaptation to com- 
 merce. Lieutenant PAGE executed his commission with rare fidelity and intelligence, and 
 has embodied the results in this volume. The explorations described in the Narrative 
 embrace an extent of 3600 miles of river navigation, and 4400 miles of journey by land in 
 Paraguay and the Argentine Confederation. The River Paraguay alone was found to be 
 navigable, at low water, by a steamer drawing nine feet, for more than 2000 miles from 
 the ocean. The basin of La Plata is almost eqnal in extent to the Mississippi, and not in- 
 ferior in salubrity of climate and fertility of soil, while the headwaters of its rivers pene- 
 trate the richest mineral provinces of Brazil and Bolivia. The products of this region 
 must find their outlet through the River La Plata. The population numbers scarcely one 
 person to a square mile, but great inducements to emigration are now offered by the Ar- 
 gentine Confederation. The commerce of the country, already considerable, is capable of 
 immediate and indefinite increase. 
 
 Lieutenant PAGE'S Narrative contains ample information respecting the soil, climate, 
 and productions of the country, and the manners, habits, and customs of the people. A 
 full account Is given of the unfortunate rupture with Paraguay, showing conclusively that 
 the attack upon the Water Witch was altogether unwarranted, and the allegations by which 
 President Lopez attempted to justify it entirely destitute of truth. An interesting and 
 valuable account of the Jesuit Mission in La Plata is appended to the Narrative. 
 
 The Illustrations comprise the accurate Map of the Country prepared by the orders of 
 our Government, Portraits of Urquiza, Lopez, Francia, and Loyola, and numerous En- 
 gravings of Scenery, Character, and Incident. 
 
 Published by HARPER & BROTHERS, 
 
 Franklin Square, New York. 
 
 HABFEB & BBOTOEHS will send the above Work by Mail, postage paid (for any dis- 
 tance in the United States under 3000 miles), on receipt of $3 00.
 
 A Great Work Completed. 
 
 "The most magnificent contribution of the present century to the cause of 
 geographical literature." 
 
 DR. EARTH'S 
 
 NORTH AND CENTRAL AFRICA. 
 
 Travels and Discoveries in North and Central Africa. Being a Journal of 
 an Expedition undertaken under the Auspices of H.B.M's Government, 
 in the Years 18491855. By HENRY EARTH, Ph.D., D.C.L., Fellow 
 of the Koyal Geographical and Asiatic Societies, &c., &c. With a Map 
 and numerous elegant Illustrations. Complete in 3 vols. 8vo, Muslin, 
 $7 50 ; Half Calf, $10 50. 
 
 The researches of Dr. Barth are of the highest interest. Few men have existed so quali- 
 fied, both by intellectual ability and a vigorous bodily constitution, for the perilous part 
 of an African discoverer as Dr. Barth. London Times. 
 
 It richly merits all the commendation bestowed upon it by "the leading journal" of Eu- 
 rope. Corr. National Intelligencer. 
 
 Every chapter presents matter of more original interest than an ordinary volume of 
 travels. This is high praise, but it is due to the intelligence and zeal of Dr. Bartb, who 
 pursued his adventures with unflinching courage, and neglected no opportunities. Hir 
 diacoveriee, in fact, are parallel with those of Dr. Livingstone in the South. \Ve confess 
 that such a relation has for us an intense interest ; we are pure that no serious reader will 
 be disappointed in the narrative of Dr. Barth, which, sprinkled with anecdotes, varied by 
 glittering descriptions of landscapes and manners, written with vigor and simplicity, and 
 disclosing amid the gloom of Africa the secrets of centuries, is a rich repertory of knowl- 
 edge, and deserves to take its place among the classics of travel. Itondon Leader. 
 
 For extent and variety of subjects, the volumes before us greatly surpass every other 
 work on African travel with which it has been our fortune to meet. As an indefatigable 
 traveler, Dr. Earth's merits are undoubted. London Athenaeum. 
 
 Dr. Earth's volumes contain the best account of the interior of Negroland we have yet 
 had north of nine degrees of latitude, and he himself is the model of an explorer patient, 
 persevering, and resolute. London Spectator. 
 
 A traveler of wide and varied experience, a close observer of people and things, a con- 
 scientious historian, and withal a savan occupying a position of distinguished merit, Dr. 
 Earth's records will be a standard work in the library of every scholar. X. Y. Herald. 
 
 Dr Barth has written with marvelous clearness, and from a mind at once full and crit- 
 ical. No one who wishes to know Africa can afford to dispense with his work. Boston 
 Traveller. 
 
 It is the most magnificent contribution of the present century to the cause of geograph- 
 ical knowledge. To have accomplished his task as he has done, in the face of innumer- 
 able obstacles and dangers, indicates the possession of those qualities that enthusiasm 
 of discovery, that shrewdness of observation, and that practical tact which lend the 
 charm of heroic and romantic interest to his personal narrative. The discoveries made 
 are of the highest importance as bearing upon the future destiny of the African continent. 
 JV. Y. Evangelist. 
 
 The most important contribution to geographical science that has been made in onr 
 time. Thousands of readers in our country will be anxious to get possession of this treas- 
 ure of knowledge. N. Y. Observer. 
 
 One of the most important works of the kind which has appeared for an age. Lutheran 
 Observer. 
 
 It can not fail to find its way into the libraries of most scholars. Lynchburg Virginian. 
 
 The personal details give the work great interest Philadelphia Press. 
 
 The heart of Africa is at last laid open to our view. It is no longer a land of darkness 
 and of the shadow of death. It is no longer a desert waste, a pestilential marsh, or the 
 hiding-place of wild beasts and bloody men. The physical features, ihe natural products, 
 the races, the governments, the religions of the vast interior of Africa are spread out be- 
 fore us with a minuteness of detail that leaves hardly any thing to be added to our knowl- 
 edge upon these several points. Dr. Earth's work is a magnificent contribution to geo- 
 graphical and ethnological science. A". 1'. Independent. 
 
 Published by HARPER & BROTHERS, Franklin Square, New York, 
 
 E^ 3 HABPEE & BEOTHKBS will send the above Work by Mail, postage paid, to any part 
 of the United States, on receipt of the Money.
 
 UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY 
 
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