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ILLUSTRATED 
 
 HORSE BREAKING 
 
\ I 
 
ILLUSTRATED 
 
 HORSE BREAKING. 
 
 BY 
 
 CAPT. M. HORACE HAYES, 
 
 II 
 
 LATE OF 'THE BUFFS.' 
 
 AUTHOR OF "RIDING: ON THE FLAT AND ACROSS COUNTRY;" 
 "VETERINARY NOTES FOR HORSE OWNERS;" 
 
 " RACING REMINISCENCES IN INDIA ; " 
 "TRAINING AND HORSE MANAGEMENT IN INDIA," ETC. 
 
 JFift|j*tbj0 JHlustrattons frg 
 J. H. OSWALD BROWN. 
 
 LONDON I 
 
 W. THACKER & Co., 87, NEWGATE STREET. 
 
 CALCUTTA : THACKER, SPINK & CO. 
 BOMBAY: THACKER & CO. LIMITED. 
 
 l88 9- 
 
 UlLVLU 
 vL LVUL 
 
LONDON: 
 PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED, 
 
 STAMFORD STREET AND CHARING CROSS. 
 
 r ~r-r : 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER PAGE 
 
 I. THEORY OF HORSE-BREAKING . . . ." ' . . I- 
 
 II. PRINCIPLES OF MOUTHING . . . .. - . . 41 
 
 III. HORSE-CONTROL . . . . . . -77 
 
 IV. RENDERING HORSES DOCILE ...... 147 
 
 V. GIVING HORSES GOOD MOUTHS 166 
 
 VI. TEACHING HORSES TO JUMP 188 
 
 VII. MOUNTING HORSES FOR THE FIRST TIME .' . . 197 
 
 VIII. BREAKING HORSES FOR LADIES' RIDING .... 209 
 
 IX. BREAKING HORSES TO HARNESS ..... 212 
 
 X. FAULTS OF MOUTH . . . . . . . . 216 
 
 XI. NERVOUSNESS AND IMPATIENCE OF CONTROL . . . 222 
 
 XII. JIBBING IN SADDLE 227 
 
 XIIL JUMPING FAULTS '. . . . 230 
 
 XIV. VICES IN HARNESS 233 
 
 XV. AGGRESSIVENESS .... ... 242 
 
 XVI. RIDING AND DRIVING THE NEWLY- BROKEN HORSE . . 247 
 
 XVII. STABLE VICES 251 
 
 XVIII. TEACHING THE HORSE TRICKS 259 
 
 XIX. TESTING A HORSE'S MANNERS, MOUTH, AND TEMPER . 271 
 
 XX. ON IMPROVISED GEAR 272 
 
 APPENDIX ........... 274 
 
ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 FIG. PAGE 
 
 I. HORSE BENDING HIS NECK TO THE REIN WITHOUT SWING- 
 ING ROUND HIS HIND-QUARTERS AT THE SAME TIME, IN 
 ANSWER TO THE PULL . . . . .'..'-. 58 
 2. SHEWS HORSE HAVING ANSWERED THE PULL OF OFF REIN 
 AS HE SHOULD, AND CONSEQUENTLY COMING STRAIGHT 
 AT HIS FENCE 6l 
 
 3- THE PROPER LENGTH FOR A STANDING MARTINGALE . . 70 
 
 4. FIRST LOOP IN FORMING A HALTER . . . 79 
 
 5. SECOND STEP IN FORMING A ROPE HALTER. ... 79 
 
 6. ROPE-HALTER ON POLE, READY FOR USE .... 82 
 
 7. HALTING vicious HORSE WITH ROPE-HALTER ON POLE . 83 
 
 8. PRATT'S METHOD OF HALTERING 87 
 
 9- NOOSING A FORE-LEG . . . . . . . .90 
 
 10. PULLING UP A FORE-LEG WHEN NOOSED . . . .91 
 
 ii. PICKING UP A FORE-LEG 95 
 
 12. HOW TO HOLD UP A FORE-LEG 97 
 
 13. RAREY'S LEG-STRAP 100 
 
 14. TYING UP FORE-LEG WITH STIRRUP LEATHER . . . 101 
 
 15. THE BEST METHOD OF FASTENING UP A FORE-LEG . . 103 
 
 l6. A STIRRUP LEATHER AS USED FOR HOLDING UP A FORE-LEG Io6 
 
 17. THE HALTER-TWITCH IQQ 
 
 l8. DO. DO 1 10 
 
 19. PRATT'S ROPE-TWITCH, FIRST PORTION 114 
 
 20. PRATT'S TWITCH COMPLETED . . . . . .115 
 
 21. PRATT'S TWITCH ON HORSE'S HEAD, AND TIGHTENED AT 
 
 WORD "STEADY" . .116 
 
 22. HEAD-STALL TWITCH ON HORSE 117 
 
 23. THE BRIDLE-TWITCH, FRONT AND NEAR-SIDE VIEW . .119 
 24. THE BRIDLE-TWITCH, OFF-SIDE VIEW I2O 
 
ILL USTRA TIONS. 
 
 FIG. PAGE 
 
 25. THE STRAIT-JACKET . . . . . . . . 122 
 
 26. HORSE WITH STRAIT-JACKET ON . . . . .123 
 
 27. PICKING UP A HIND-LEG 127 
 
 28. FIRST STEP IN PICKING UP' A HIND-LEG WITHOUT THE 
 
 ASSISTANCE OF A HELPER . . . . . .130 
 
 29. SECOND STEP IN PICKING UP A HIND-LEG WITHOUT THE 
 
 ASSISTANCE OF A HELPER 133 
 
 30. SHEWING HOW TO FASTEN A ROPE TO THE END OF HORSE'S 
 
 TAIL WITH A "DOUBLE SHEET BEND" .... 136 
 31. HlND HOOF HELD UP BY TWO ASSISTANTS WITH ROPE FROM 
 
 TAIL I 3 7 
 
 32. LEG PULLED BACK WITH ONE ROPE, A METHOD TO BE 
 
 AVOIDED, AS THROWING THE HORSE OFF HIS BALANCE . 139 
 33. MODE OF FASTENING A ROPE TO A SHORT TAIL . . .140 
 34. SHORT-TAILED HORSE WITH ROPES ATTACHED TO TAIL . 141 
 35. IMPROVISED HOBBLE MADE WITH A STIRRUP IRON . . 144 
 36. WOODEN GAG ......... 145 
 
 37. CRUPPER LEADING REIN ....... 149 
 
 38. THROWING A HORSE BY MEANS OF PULLING HIS HEAD 
 
 ROUND WITH A ROPE 155 
 
 39. HORSE WITH HIS HEAD PULLED ROUND WHEN THROWN . 159 
 4O. BEST METHOD OF KEEPING A HORSE ON THE GROUND THAT 
 
 HAS FALLEN IN HARNESS 163 
 
 41. HORSE WITH DRIVING GEAR ON. . . . . . 168 
 
 42. HORSE WITH DRIVING PAD ON, NEW MODEL . . .169 
 43. BIRD'S-EYE VIEW OF POSITION OF DRIVER. . . .175 
 
 44. DRIVING ON FOOT 184 
 
 45. DO. DO. . . 185 
 
 46. HORSE PREPARED TO BE MOUNTED FOR THE FIRST TIME . 2OO 
 47. SECOND STAGE IN BREAKING A HORSE FOR RIDING , . 201 
 48. PULLING KICKER'S HEAD ROUND IN STALL. . . . 253 
 49- TAI L TIED WITH TAPES TO PREVENT HORSE RUBBING IT . 257 
 5O. COMANCHE BRIDLE, OFF SIDE ...... 262 
 
 51. COMANCHE BRIDLE, NEAR SIDE 263 
 
 52. THE KNOT ON OFF SIDE OF COMANCHE BRIDLE ENLARGED . 264 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 I OFFER this work to the favourable consideration 
 of the public, as an attempt to describe a 
 reasoned-out system of horse-breaking, which I 
 have found, by practical experience, to be easy 
 of execution, rapid in its effects, and requiring the 
 possession of no exceptional strength, activity, 
 pluck, or horsemanship by the operator, who, to 
 become expert in it, will, as a rule, need only 
 practice. It is in accordance with our English 
 and Irish ideas on the subject ; for it aims at 
 teaching the horse " manners," and giving him a 
 snafHe-bridle mouth ; so that he will " go up to 
 the bridle," and "bend" himself in thorough 
 obedience to rein and leg. 
 
xii PREFACE. 
 
 As a personal explanation, I may mention that 
 after having spent many years racing and training 
 in India, during which time I practised the 
 ordinary methods of breaking, I returned to 
 England, where I learned the use of the standing 
 martingale and long driving reins, as applied 
 specially to jumpers, from Mr. John Hubert 
 Moore, who was the cleverest " maker" of 
 steeplechasers Ireland ever knew. He, I may 
 remark, obtained these methods, in his youth, 
 from an old Irish breaker, named Fallen, who 
 was born more than a century ago. I had also 
 valuable instruction in "horse taming" from 
 Professor Sample. Having read an account of 
 MM. Raabe and Lunel's "hippo-lasso" as a 
 means of control for veterinary operations, I 
 conceived, with happy results, the idea of utilising 
 this ingenious contrivance in breaking. I also 
 learned, about the same time, how to halter a 
 loose horse without running any danger of being 
 kicked, or bitten. 
 
PREFACE. xiii 
 
 Having thus acquired a fair amount of infor- 
 mation, on what has always been to me a favourite 
 subject, I naturally wished to put it into practice. 
 
 As I knew, judging from my former ignorance, 
 how much men in India stood in need of in- 
 struction in horse-breaking, I determined to 
 return to that country with the object of 
 teaching this art ; so as to acquire the ex- 
 perience I needed, and to " pay my expenses " at 
 the same time. I am glad to say that I was 
 successful in both respects. During a two years' 
 tour, I held classes at all the principal stations of 
 the Empire from Tricinopoly to Peshawur, and 
 from Quetta to Mandalay and, having met a 
 very large number of vicious animals and fine 
 horsemen, I obtained experience, and greatly 
 added to my stock of knowledge, which I shall 
 now try to utilise for the benefit of my readers. 
 As I proceeded through India, I felt the necessity 
 of rejecting some methods I had formerly prized, 
 altering others, and adopting new ones ; so that 
 
xiv PREFACE. 
 
 the course of instruction which I was able to 
 give to my more recent classes, was far more 
 extensive, and of better proved utility, than what 
 I had to offer at the beginning of my travels. 
 The great want which I had, at first, felt was a 
 method by which a person could secure and 
 handle, with perfect safety, any horse, no matter 
 how vicious he might be. However, after many 
 kicks, a few bites, and several lucky escapes, I 
 was able to perfect the required method, which 
 is so simple, that the only wonder is that I did 
 not think of it before. I may explain that the 
 Australian horses met with in India, where they 
 form a considerable proportion of the animals 
 used for riding and driving, are far more 
 dangerous and difficult to handle and control, 
 than British stock. Had I remained in England 
 all my life, I should not have acquired a quarter 
 of the experience of vicious horses I was afforded, 
 during the time I lately spent in India. It goes 
 almost without saying, that the harder the pupil 
 
PREFA CE. xv 
 
 is to teach, the greater chance has the instructor 
 of becoming expert in his business. I need hardly 
 say, that I shall, always, be very grateful to any 
 of my readers who may favour me with special 
 information on this, or kindred subjects. 
 
 I may mention, that, after returning from 
 India, I held classes in England, Gibraltar, Malta, 
 Egypt, Ceylon, Singapore, and China. 
 
 I have much pleasure in giving, in the body of 
 this work, the sources from which I have taken 
 various hints. 
 
 The chief claim I, here, make to originality, 
 is, that in bringing together the results of ex- 
 perience in different countries, I have endea- 
 voured to reduce the art of breaking horses to a 
 more or less complete system, many of the 
 principles of which, I venture to think, I have 
 been the first to expound, and that I have made 
 several improvements in existing methods. The 
 new things which I have introduced need no 
 special mention here. 
 
xvi PREFACE. 
 
 My best thanks are due to Mr. J. H. Oswald 
 Brown, for the faithful and painstaking manner 
 in which he has illustrated the letter-press of this 
 book. The drawings speak for themselves. 
 
 Although I am aware that the proceeding on 
 my part may be deemed unusual ; still, in order 
 to strengthen my words, I have ventured to 
 submit to my readers, in an appendix, the 
 recorded opinions of various members of my 
 classes on the practical working of the theories 
 and methods described in this book. 
 
 I shall, at all times, be ready to give practical 
 instruction to persons wishing to learn this art 
 of making the horse a safe, and pleasant con- 
 veyance. 
 
 JUNIOR ARMY AND NAVY CLUB, 
 
 ST. JAMES'S STREET, LONDON. S.W. 
 
 January i, 1889. 
 
ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 THEORY OF HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 Object of horse-breaking Causes of faults which can be remedied 
 by breaking Vice in the horse Distinction between nervous- 
 ness and deliberate vice Mental qualities of the horse As- 
 sociation of ideas in breaking Value and scope of breaking 
 On the possibility of overcoming any form of vice Necessity 
 for obtaining control over the horse On the nature of the 
 coercion to be applied to unruly horses Punishment Fatigue 
 as a means of subjugation Effect of the voice Personal 
 influence in breaking Advisability of possessing various 
 methods of breaking A good mouth, the chief requirement 
 Permanency in the effects of breaking Expedition in breaking 
 The ordinary method of breaking Breaking by kindness 
 alone The rough and ready style of breaking Summary of 
 the principles of the art of rendering horses docile. 
 
 The object of horse-breaking is to teach the 
 animal to obey the orders of his master in the 
 best possible manner. Hence, this art includes 
 
2 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 instruction in the advantageous application of his 
 powers, as well as methods for rendering him 
 docile. 
 
 Causes of faults which can be remedied by 
 breaking are : i. Nervousness ; or the unnecessary 
 fear of the presence or handling of man, or of the 
 effect of any of the horse's other surroundings, 
 which, however startling they might be to him 
 in a wild state, he can find by experience will 
 not hurt him. 
 
 2. Impatience of control, which frequently co- 
 exists with nervousness, in the same animal. 
 
 3. Ignorance of the meaning of the indications 
 used by man to convey his wishes to the horse. 
 
 4. Deliberate disobedience. There is no doubt 
 that sulkiness of temper is, often, inherited. 
 
 5. Active hostility, which, as far as my experi- 
 ence goes, is, always, the result of bad treatment, 
 whether brought on by cruelty, or by allowing a 
 naturally fractious animal to get the upper hand. 
 
NERVOUSNESS AND VICE. 
 
 It is evident that vices caused by disease, or 
 infirmity, do not come within the province of the 
 breaker. 
 
 6. The fact of having been taught some trick 
 for instance, kicking when touched behind the 
 saddle the practice of which constitutes a vice. 
 
 Vice in the Horse, from a breaking point of 
 view, may be held to signify the practice, on the 
 part of the animal towards man, of disobedience 
 wilful or otherwise of any legitimate com- 
 mand ; or want of docility. 
 
 The distinction between nervousness and deliberate 
 vice may be easily made, if we observe how a 
 horse acts after we have proved to him that he 
 need have no fear of us. For instance, if we fix 
 up a horse, say, in a "strait-jacket," (see page 118) 
 so that he cannot kick, and continue to " gen tie" 
 him over with our hand, until he is thoroughly 
 assured of the good faith of our intentions ; we 
 
 B 2 
 
4 ILL USTRA TED \HORSE-BREA KING. 
 
 might justly term him a vicious brute if he 
 kicked at us, without our touching him, the 
 moment the restraint was removed. I may 
 mention, in this connection, that fear of the near 
 approach of man will often induce a purely 
 nervous animal to kick -out, if a person, and 
 especially a stranger, ventures to come within 
 reach. Although we may frequently find a horse 
 kick from nervousness, he will rarely bite from 
 that cause alone. As a verbal distinction be- 
 tween faults due to deliberate vice, and those 
 caused by fear of man, or of the animal's strange 
 surroundings, would not, generally, be understood - 
 at first glance, I need not attempt to make it in 
 these pages. 
 
 The more experience I acquire in the breaking 
 of horses, the more convinced I become, that the 
 so-called " nervousness " of animals that have 
 been handled some time, is largely made up of 
 impatience of control, and, in many cases, of 
 active hostility. Without, for a moment, imputing 
 
NERVOUSNESS AND VICE. 
 
 intentional deceit to a ''nervous" "old stager," 
 I make bold to assert that many crafty, dan- 
 gerous brutes pose before their owners as ill- 
 used victims of a too highly strung nervous 
 system. Take, for instance, an aged horse, like 
 many I have met, that snorts with apparent 
 terror at anyone that approaches him, and is 
 ready, on the slightest chance of reaching his 
 mark, to strike out in front, or lash out from 
 behind, if saddling or mounting him be attempted. 
 His nervous emotion, the first time he was taken 
 in hand, or the first time he began his unpleasant 
 tricks, may have been thoroughly genuine ; but 
 its exhibition was evidently attended with the 
 result of his more or less successfully resisting 
 control. This act of insubordination having 
 revealed to the horse the extent of his own 
 power, which, to every animal, is a pleasurable 
 sensation, was naturally repeated again and again, 
 until the vicious habit was confirmed ; although 
 its necessity might have been, scores and scores 
 
6 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 of times, disproved by the saddling or mounting 
 having been accomplished without the infliction 
 of any pain to the horse, however great the 
 trouble may have been to the groom or rider. 
 In the case I have mentioned, the fault lay with 
 the person who had charge of the animal, and 
 who ought to have, then and there, mastered 
 him the very first time he shewed resistance to 
 a legitimate order. Whether the continued failure 
 to resist discipline was caused by the infliction of 
 cruelty, or by the exhibition of incompetence on 
 the part of the man, matters little as regards 
 their detrimental result on the animal, except, 
 that unsuccessful punishment always aggravates 
 a vice to a deplorable extent. I am inclined 
 to think that really nervous horses are not as 
 naturally " game " as their more placid fellows ; 
 while I am thoroughly convinced, that the majority 
 of the pseudo nervous sort are sulky, treacherous 
 brutes. I am, however, ready to admit that there 
 are many exceptions to the rule I have ventured 
 
MENTAL QUALITIES OF THE HORSE. 7 
 
 to lay down. At the same time, it would be most 
 unwise to ignore the fact that the repetition of 
 any trick, however it may be caused, the practice 
 of which renders the animal difficult of control, 
 has an increasingly bad effect on him the longer 
 it be continued. 
 
 Mental qualities of the Horse. The possibility 
 of our being able to obtain an easy mastery over 
 the horse, who is greatly our superior in strength 
 and activity, and quite our equal in pluck, rests 
 on the fact that instinct, rather than reason, 
 guides his actions. To investigate this, we may 
 try the experiment, when standing to the side 
 and a little to the rear of a kicker, of touching 
 him about the hocks or quarters with a con- 
 veniently long stick, when, if he " lets out" 
 straight behind him, we may conclude that this 
 is a purely reflex or instinctive action on his 
 part. If the animal kicks at the stick, as the 
 cause of annoyance, he certainly conducts himself 
 
ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 in a manner that is not altogether irrational. 
 But if he tries to kick the man who holds the 
 stick, we cannot deny him the possession of 
 reasoning power. In order that my meaning 
 be not misunderstood, I here suppose that 
 this experimental horse is one which would 
 viciously kick a person who, when standing 
 behind him, would be rash enough to touch the 
 animal, however gently, with his hand ; and not 
 one whose kick would be more of a push to 
 remove an offending object than a blow. Luckily, 
 horses that can reason, even to such a small 
 extent as this, are rare. 
 
 I usually teach horses to He down (see 
 page 153) by tying up, in the first instance, one 
 fore-leg, arranging the necessary gear, and then 
 making the animal forcibly "go down." Although 
 many horses will "fight" desperately, time after 
 time, when they are thus compelled to submit, 
 and at a moment when they are utterly helpless, 
 I have never found one that would resent, as a 
 
INTELLIGENCE OF THE HORSE. 9 
 
 result of this hard-earned experience, the pre- 
 liminary tying up of the fore-leg. But after 
 having even once been twitched in the usual 
 way, a horse will, as a rule, " fight" the moment 
 his muzzle is touched. In the first case, owing 
 to the more distant connection, the animal is 
 unable to associate the idea of the irksome com- 
 pulsion employed to make him lie down, with 
 that of tying up his leg ; apparently to us an 
 extremely simple mental effort. In the second 
 instance, the action of the muscles, on the hand 
 touching the muzzle, would seem almost entirely 
 instinctive. 
 
 The useful intelligence of the horse undoubtedly 
 depends on the retentiveness of his memory, upon 
 which we should work in educating him to be- 
 come our faithful servant. If, however, we neglect 
 the cultivation ftf this his chief mental gift, and 
 try to gain our end by stimulating other and 
 weaker qualities of his mind, we shall run a 
 serious risk of spoiling his disposition. It has 
 
io ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 been often remarked to me by good judges and 
 it is my own experience that teaching horses a 
 lot of tricks, the acquisition of which demands 
 some strain on their reasoning powers, and petting 
 them, are very apt to cause them to become 
 crafty and difficult to manage. In acting as I 
 have advised, we follow the practice of judicious 
 parents who educate their sons according to the 
 lads' respective talents. Thus, for instance, a boy 
 with an extremely retentive memory, but small 
 capacity for reasoning out problems, would have 
 a fair chance of shining as a linguist ; although 
 he would, certainly, prove a failure as a mathe- 
 matician. 
 
 The feeling of self-preservation is so strongly 
 implanted in the mind of every animal, and the 
 retentiveness of the horse's memory is so great, 
 that, if once the idea of his being our physical 
 superior gets into his head, he will, naturally, be 
 inclined to resist our commands. Hence, it is a 
 maxim among all good breakers, that, if possible, 
 
HASTEN SLOWLY. n 
 
 a horse should never be allowed to know his own 
 power. As a corollary to this, I may state that 
 if we have a dispute as to discipline with a horse, we 
 should not part company before making him yield ; 
 lest he may carry away the mischievous impression 
 that he has got the best of the battle. The breaker 
 need not attempt too much in any one lesson ; 
 but what he undertakes he should succeed in 
 performing before quitting his pupil. For instance, 
 with a horse that will not allow his hind legs to 
 be touched, the breaker may reasonably content 
 himself with making him quiet to handle about 
 these parts, without insisting on his standing 
 submissively to be shod behind an operation 
 that may be attempted on the following day. 
 We should also make use of our knowledge of 
 the limited scope of a horse's reasoning powers, 
 to change the subject of contention, if we fear that 
 there is any chance of our being worsted in a 
 pitched battle with the animal ; so that the victory 
 even if it does not affect the original cause of 
 
12 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 dispute shall always remain on our side. As an 
 illustration, I may mention the advisability of 
 forcibly making a determined and headstrong 
 runaway lie down, until he thoroughly "gives in" ; 
 in order to make him yield the more readily to 
 the indications of the rein. 
 
 Association of ideas in breaking. As association 
 of ideas is the most valuable aid we possess to 
 memory, we should largely utilise the practical 
 working out of this principle in breaking. The 
 intelligent obedience to the voice of their driver, 
 in turning, stopping, going on, and in varying 
 their paces, displayed by many cart-horses, is a 
 common instance ; as is, also, that of the 'bus 
 horse, who starts onward the moment he hears 
 the door of the conveyance slammed-to by the 
 conductor. A friend of mine had a horse that 
 became so increasingly difficult to mount, that at 
 last he found it impossible to get on to him by 
 ordinary means, on account of the animal " break- 
 
ASSOCIATION OF IDEAS. 13 
 
 ing away " the moment he attempted to put his 
 toe into the stirrup. Living near a river, he hit 
 on the expedient of placing the horse with his 
 off side "broad-side on," and close to, a steep part 
 of the bank, and then attempting to mount on 
 the near side. As usual, when the man's foot 
 touched the iron, the horse swung round, and, on 
 this occasion only, fell down twenty feet into the 
 river. The effect of this lesson, which was entirely 
 harmless, was to make the animal perfectly steady 
 to mount, so long as he stood on the bank of 
 the river, in a position similar to that from which 
 he had had his tumble ; but he was just as 
 difficult to mount as ever, anywhere else. Such 
 a method, to be perfect, should be of universal, 
 and not of local, application. I may add, with 
 reference to my remarks on page 4, that my 
 friend's unruly brute of a horse would, by many, 
 be deemed a nervous creature, and a worthy 
 recipient of any amount of kindness and petting. 
 The most effective means of applying the 
 
14 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 principle of association of ideas to the breaking 
 of vicious horses, is one by which the animal 
 arrives at the right conclusion from wrong pre- 
 misses ; as with Pratt's rope-twitch (see page 113), 
 when making a horse steady to mount. Evidently 
 mistaking the cause of the pain inflicted on him 
 by its employment, he connects the idea of 
 punishment with the word "steady," and not with 
 the application of the cord. Were he able to 
 argue rightly on this subject, he would remain 
 quiet only when the twitch was on, and would 
 entirely disregard the verbal admonition, for 
 which he entertains such marked respect. 
 
 Value and scope of breaking. The scope of 
 breaking is wider than persons might generally 
 imagine ; for not alone does it include the educa- 
 tion of the untutored animal, but it also embraces 
 the correction of faults, which, while seriously 
 detracting from the horse's value, are usually 
 looked upon as unavoidable dispensations that 
 
VALUE OF BREAKING. 15 
 
 have to be borne with becoming philosophy ; as, 
 for instance, prancing and refusal to walk quietly, 
 when " fresh " ; chucking up the head ; stargazing ; 
 boring to one side ; shewing excitement in harness 
 when the whip is cracked ; shying off the ball at 
 polo ; refusal to stand perfectly steady when 
 being mounted ; etc. I need hardly say that the 
 knowledge, which I shall endeavour to impart to 
 my readers, of the art of giving a horse a 
 snaffle-bridle mouth and to render him steady 
 and reliable, is of infinitely more value to every- 
 one, except, perhaps, to the showman who re- 
 quires an advertisement, than instruction, which 
 I shall also supply, in methods for taming man- 
 eaters, and other exceptionally dangerous animals. 
 This art of " horse taming " is of very little 
 practical use ; for the need of its application is 
 of but rare occurrence. Even the celebrated 
 Rarey, after subduing three or four " savages," 
 when in England, had to content himself with 
 exhibiting them about the country, as reformed 
 
1 6 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 characters, for lack of new subjects on which to 
 shew his skill. When wishing to form a class 
 for practical instruction in breaking, during my 
 tours, I have frequently met with the objection 
 that there were no vicious horses in that par- 
 ticular place. As I always replied that I needed 
 animals with only common faults of mouth and 
 temper, I was never at a loss for subjects to 
 demonstrate the fact, that there are but few 
 horses that are entirely free from some riding or 
 driving fault, which, more or less, impairs their 
 value, and which, as a rule, can be readily over- 
 come. The more frequent vices I have encoun- 
 tered among army horses are : unsteadiness at 
 mounting; "rushing" at fences; refusing to quit 
 the ranks ; refusing to jump ; buckjumping (among 
 Australian horses) ; and " difficult to shoe behind." 
 
 On the possibility of overcoming any form of 
 vice. The influences which man, being the weaker 
 animal, can apply to making the horse obedient to 
 
MEANS OF CONTROL. 17 
 
 his wishes, are : affection ; the natural submission 
 yielded by an inferior to a superior intellect ; 
 fear ; and the impression which is, generally, 
 erroneous that the order given cannot be resisted. 
 The first three are the usual means for rendering 
 docile a high-couraged horse. Although we 
 may, to a certain extent, use the last-mentioned 
 influence with quiet horses, and, especially in 
 mouthing, we should remember that it is our last 
 resource, when all others fail, in reducing a 
 rebellious animal to submission. If, however, trie 
 horse which we have taken in hand, happen to 
 reason sufficiently well to enable him to "see 
 through " our artifices, our labour will, of course, 
 be in vain. Herein lies the whole question of 
 success, or failure, in making vicious horses 
 docile. Man-eaters, like the historic Cruiser, the 
 taming of whom made Rarey famous, being 
 actuated, almost entirely, by instinctive hostility, 
 yield far more readily to authority, than the 
 sulky animal that, having found out a method 
 
1 8 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 by which he can thwart the wishes of his 
 would-be master, craftily adheres to it, with a 
 fair show of reason on his side. I may mention 
 that the assertion made by many "horse-tamers," 
 that they can cure any horse of any kind of 
 vice, is manifestly absurd. 
 
 Of all forms of vice, those caused by stub- 
 bornness are the most difficult to eradicate ; for 
 the animal which sets its will in deliberate 
 opposition to ours, fights us with the weapons 
 those of reason by which, alone, we are, usually, 
 superior to it. A horse that objects, from 
 nervousness, or from mere impatience of control, 
 to have its hind quarters handled, will quickly 
 submit ; as will, also, in the vast majority of 
 cases, a "refuser," or jibber in saddle; if they be 
 broken in the manner which will be explained 
 further on. A jibber in draught, however, is apt 
 to find out, that although the breaker is all- 
 powerful, when it has no harness on ; the 
 advantage is all the other way, as soon as it 
 
BREAKING A JIBBER. 19 
 
 gets between the shafts ; it being easier, as 
 Professor Sample used to say, to break a horse 
 than to break a horse and trap. Besides this, it 
 is impossible, in many cases, to directly apply 
 breaking methods to animals in harness, in the 
 same manner as we can do in saddle. For 
 instance, if a trapper be accustomed to jib, as 
 soon as it comes to a stiff incline ; to back into 
 the ditch, or fence ; and, then, to proceed to kick 
 the vehicle to pieces ; all that the breaker can 
 do, is to take it out, and endeavour to, indirectly, 
 counteract the fault in some convenient place. 
 He may succeed, to all appearance ; although the 
 pupil may forget the instruction received, if 
 anything goes wrong, such as an abrupt halt, 
 which cannot always be avoided, the first time 
 the horse is driven up a hill in a crowded 
 thoroughfare. In such a case, if the animal 
 " shows fight," it will, almost to a certainty, 
 gain the victory, and the good influence of the 
 previous teaching will be lost. For vices un- 
 
 c 2 
 
20 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 connected with harness, on the contrary, the 
 breaker can always find some suitable spot on 
 which to work his will on the disobedient one, 
 under every advantageous condition. I say this 
 with every reasonable reserve ; for we may meet 
 with cases, sometimes, of saddle vices such as 
 running away on a race-course, only, when 
 galloped to which it is difficult to directly 
 apply efficient breaking methods. 
 
 Unless when caused by disease, as, for in- 
 stance, chronic sexual excitement in the mare, 
 defects of vision, and pain in the legs or feet, 
 which might make a horse refuse to jump, 
 practically speaking, almost any riding or driving 
 vice (I naturally exclude those vices that concern 
 the veterinary surgeon, and not the breaker) can 
 be overcome in time, say within a week or ten 
 days ; although I readily admit that I have been 
 beaten in a few cases (about two per cent, of faulty 
 horses) when my time was limited, or when I did 
 not possess the experience I have since acquired. 
 
LIMITS TO BREAKING. 21 
 
 I have had many hundreds of horses with 
 various forms of " pain in the temper " pass 
 through my hands, and, out of all these, selected 
 from thousands of other animals, I met with 
 only one or two which I would call incapable of 
 being made serviceable on account of absolute 
 idiocy. Hence, I conclude that cases of marked 
 mental aberration are extremely rare in the horse. 
 I do not think that I met with more than one 
 horse which appeared incapable, from natural 
 nervousness, of being rendered quite steady. 
 
 As the breaker has to work on the material 
 at hand, and as he has no power to change, 
 the nervous organisation of the animal, however 
 well he may establish the habit of implicit 
 obedience, it is impossible for him to make ' a 
 naturally sulky animal work with the gaiety 
 of heart and pluck, that an honest horse will 
 display. 
 
 Necessity for obtaining control over the Horse. 
 
22 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 In order to fulfil the necessary conditions of 
 safety for himself, the breaker should be able, 
 by the system under which he works to quote 
 the words of that admirable horse-master, Pro- 
 fessor Sample to make the animal rideable and 
 driveable before he is either ridden or driven. 
 The breaker who employs the ordinary methods, 
 is not alone exposed to danger when mounting, 
 or even driving his pupils' for the first few times ; 
 but also in the preliminary handling, unless, 
 indeed, in the case of young foals. The advice 
 to go boldly up to the horse and show him that 
 you are not afraid of him, so freely tendered on 
 such occasions, should be treated by its recipient 
 as a piece of "cheap swagger," or the outcome 
 of pretentious ignorance ; for, even granted that 
 such a demeanour would efficiently soothe a 
 terrified animal, or cow a treacherously-disposed 
 one suppositions that are altogether absurd 
 such counsel would in no way supply the neces- 
 sary foolhardiness for such an undertaking. My 
 
NATURE OF COERCION. 23 
 
 advice to either amateur or professional is, never 
 to give a horse a chance of doing wrong ; so, in 
 order to be consistent after having said this, I 
 shall endeavour to describe a method by which 
 any horse, unsecured, say, in a yard or loose 
 box, can be brought under complete control with, 
 practically speaking, no risk to the operator. 
 
 On the nature of the coercion to be applied to 
 unruly Horses. The only risk run in enforcing 
 the obedience which it is absolutely necessary to 
 exact from unruly horses, is that of spoiling the 
 animal's pluck and spirit a contingency that can 
 be incurred only when the fractiousness arises from 
 " nervousness," or from want of comprehension ; 
 for what we term pluck and spirit in the horse 
 should have no taint of stubbornness. The coercion 
 employed should, naturally, be limited to what 
 would be sufficient to overcome the wilfulness ; for 
 we should never employ a general effect, when a 
 particular one will answer our purpose. Thus, 
 
24 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 suppose we had a high-cou raged, generous animal, 
 that had been made difficult to mount by a bad. 
 rider, on various occasions, prodding the horse in 
 the side with his toe, when attempting to get into 
 the saddle, we might get control over the animal 
 by Pratt's twitch (see page 113), or by tying him 
 head and tail, and then prove to him that we 
 would not touch him with our toe, when mount- 
 ing. The Rareyfying of such an animal for this 
 or any similar fault, would be injudicious in the 
 extreme ; as it would, almost to a certainty, in- 
 juriously affect one of his most valuable qualities, 
 namely, his pluck. As a sulky animal has little 
 or no pluck to lose ; we may well content ourselves 
 in gaining his obedience without troubling ourselves 
 much about any possible deterioration of his 
 courage. 
 
 Punishment. The chief practical reasons against 
 the employment of punishment in the breaking of 
 horses are : that it is very liable to fail in its object ; 
 
PUNISHMENT. 25 
 
 and that it- is calculated to break the spirit of high- 
 couraged animals, and to increase the sulkiness of 
 stubborn ones. Of course I don't mean to say 
 that a vigorous ''shaking up," and a sharp cut or 
 two with a stick (for preference), or whip, is not 
 advisable for stopping the exhibition of "calfish" 
 tricks by a young colt. Owing to the galling 
 failures I have had they were not many, for I 
 stopped in time I have made it a rule for my 
 own guidance, never to touch a mare, so as to 
 hurt her, when breaking. 
 
 I am aware that punishment, pushed to ex- 
 treme limits, has, often, proved efficacious in 
 reducing an animal to obedience, when all other 
 means have failed. As it would, then, amount 
 to gross cruelty, I cannot recommend its adoption 
 in this form. 
 
 Fatigiie as a means of subjugation. Fatigue may 
 be used as a valuable adjunct to other means of 
 breaking, but should seldom be employed alone ; 
 
26 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 its effect, usually, appearing to be as transitory as 
 the sensation itself. Thus, if we, while riding or 
 driving a bolter, in order to cure him of his vice, 
 allow him to run himself to a stand-still, we shall, 
 in all probability, find the animal quite as ready, if 
 not more so, to run away, the next time he is 
 " fresh." In such a case, the fact of the horse 
 having been allowed to do the very thing he wanted 
 to accomplish, in defiance of the wishes of his would- 
 be master, can have no possible effect in forming in 
 him the habit of obedience. Fatigue may, often, 
 appear to be the sole cause of the quietness evinced 
 by an animal under treatment of some of the break- 
 ing methods I describe. This, however, will, on 
 investigation, be found to be incorrect. Even the 
 fatigue caused in, say, rendering an unruly horse 
 quiet to shoe behind, by keeping him on the ground 
 and "gentling" him (see page 157), is out of all pro- 
 portion small compared to the amount of control 
 obtained. One of the best examples I know of 
 the fact, that it is the feeling of powerlessness to 
 
EFFECT OF THE VOICE. 27 
 
 rebel, and not the sensation of fatigue, that compels 
 obedience by these methods, is furnished by the 
 experiment of making a violent horse, like an 
 Australian buckjumper, quiet to mount in the 
 manner described on page 197 ; the effect produced 
 being striking ; the feeling of helplessness, evident ; 
 and the amount of fatigue, small. 
 
 Effect of the voice. The human voice has a 
 powerful controlling effect over the horse. To 
 apply it to advantage, the same tone and the same 
 word or words should be invariably used to express 
 the same meaning. All ambiguity of sound should 
 be avoided. The words employed should be ex- 
 pressed in a decided manner, and in a clear tone of 
 voice. I have seen some very dangerous animals 
 approached and handled by ''shouting at" them, 
 and adopting a resolute manner, when going up to 
 them in the stable. A horse, undoubtedly, recog- 
 nises the voice more quickly than the appearance 
 of a man. 
 
28 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 Personal influence in breaking. For obtaining 
 quick results, the breaker should have the horse 
 entirely to himself ; so that no disturbing influence 
 may distract the animal's attention. The great 
 objection to the practice of personal influence, as a 
 breaking agent, is that, although the animal may be 
 perfectly obedient to the man who has had the 
 exclusive handling of him, he may be refractory 
 with other people, and may, even, jealously resent 
 any interference from an outsider. I have fre- 
 quently been struck with this fact when breaking 
 savage horses who would, if they could help it, 
 allow no one, except their groom, to meddle with 
 them ; for I always found that they were far more 
 vicious to approach when their stable attendant was 
 holding them, than when he was absent. We may 
 often see the same trait of character evinced by 
 dogs that would fly at any stranger who dared to 
 touch them, as long as they were with their master ; 
 although they might be fairly amiable if he were 
 not present. However much we may admire, in 
 
VARIO US ME THODS. 2 9 
 
 the abstract, this fidelity to one, in the horse, it is 
 very apt to detract from the animal's usefulness 
 under civilised conditions, especially, if the owner be 
 not regarded as the confidential friend in question. 
 When the groom is the object of this exclusive form 
 of affection, it is generally advisable to have him 
 changed for a new man. If a horse has to be 
 rendered serviceable for general, as well as parti- 
 cular use, the breaker should refrain from accom- 
 plishing his ends by the exercise of his own personal 
 influence, and hence, should get him to obey by rein 
 and leg, rather than by voice and petting. 
 
 Advisability of possessing various methods of 
 breaking. As the removal of the cause is the only 
 proper plan for the treatment of either disease, or 
 vice, and as these causes differ, the breaker, to be 
 successful, should be provided with various methods 
 for enforcing his commands. Hence, we may rest 
 assured that the horse-tamer who advertises his one 
 particular method, as a certain cure for all forms of 
 
30 ILL USTRA TED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 vice, is as arrant a quack as the man who foists on 
 the public a pill for the removal of every kind of 
 disease. In the following pages I shall describe 
 various breaking methods, which the reader can 
 apply according as he recognises the cause of resist- 
 ance to his wishes, or of inability to understand 
 them. 
 
 Giving a Horse a good mouth, the chief requirement 
 in breaking. The horse's mouth ought to be the 
 foundation of all good breaking ; for an animal with 
 a good mouth can hardly " do wrong " ; unless, 
 indeed, under very exceptional circumstances. As 
 it is impracticable to be constantly repeating any 
 ''taming" method, such as Rareyfying, or tying a 
 horse by his head and tail, we must disregard such 
 practices as means for the maintenance of a perma- 
 nent state of discipline however useful they may be 
 for enforcing authority in the first instance and 
 must trust to the influence of the rein, which is ever 
 constant on the mouth, when riding or driving, to 
 
PERMANENCY IN BREAKING. 3 1 
 
 keep the horse mindful of his duty when in action. 
 The use of the leg should, of course, not be neglected 
 in riding. The taming methods will, naturally, be 
 required with animals that are difficult to handle 
 when dismounted, or when out of the shafts. 
 
 Permanency in the effects of breaking. The 
 primary step to establish the habit of obedience, 
 is, naturally, to make the horse obey in the first 
 instance, and then to repeat the process as may be 
 needed. Such a procedure is thoroughly rational ; 
 for it is founded on the fact that force of habit is 
 the strongest influence which rules the equine mind. 
 I have often, what I think unjustly, incurred blame 
 because, after I had practically demonstrated to my 
 pupils the feasibility of making a confirmed jibber, 
 obstinate refuser, or almost unrideable buckjumper, 
 willing and quiet in one lesson, that such animals 
 have, in the course of time, become just as bad as 
 ever ; on account of their respective owners not 
 taking the trouble, as advised by me, of repeating 
 
32 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 the easy methods I shewed. The reason men 
 usually fail to subdue "difficult" horses, is because 
 they do not know how to take the first step 
 towards making the animal obedient. If, however, 
 they be supplied with this all-important infor- 
 mation, their task should be one of increasing 
 facility after each repetition ; and, if persevered in, 
 would be rapidly completed ; but it must be 
 repeated until the desired habit is established. 
 
 However well a horse may have been broken of 
 a bad habit, he will be far more likely to acquire it 
 again under bad management, than he would have 
 been, had he been originally free from it ; for no 
 course of discipline, although it may keep the 
 animal under thorough control, can efface out of his 
 mind the memory of the practice of a former habit. 
 I need scarcely say that injudicious treatment will 
 always be capable of spoiling any horse, whether 
 invariably quiet, or reformed. Hence, a teacher of 
 breaking will be wise to confine himself to showing 
 '* how it is done," and not to risk his reputation 
 
Q UICK BREAKING. 33 
 
 in making the impossible attempt of permanently 
 " curing" a vicious horse. Besides, it is only 
 " human nature" for the owner of an animal that 
 has reverted to his evil courses, to blame the 
 breaker, and not himself. 
 
 Expedition in breaking. In order to give some 
 idea of the possibilities of the system of breaking 
 which I advocate and practise, I may state that, by 
 it, any unhandled horse, no matter how wild or how 
 old he may be, can be made quiet to ride and 
 obedient to the ordinary indications of the rein, in 
 from, say, two to four hours. Such a horse, to 
 become a reliable " conveyance," would, probably, 
 require about six more lessons two a day of an 
 hour and a half's duration each. He ought, by that 
 time, to have, acquired a good mouth, steady paces, 
 and " cleverness " to jump any ordinary fence. 
 Army remounts that have never had even a halter 
 on them, should, on an emergency, speaking 
 generally, be fit for the riding-school in a couple 
 
 D 
 
34 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 of days. I need not dwell on the value of such 
 expedition in military exigencies, and in all cases 
 where time is an object. "Spoiled" horses, such as 
 jibbers, rearers, kickers, and buckjumpers, that have 
 learned to know their own power, would, naturally, 
 take longer to break, than entirely unhandled 
 animals ; although the limit of five days need not, 
 usually, be exceeded even with them. The possi- 
 bility of horses going back to their old tricks may 
 always be provided against by judicious repetition 
 of the necessary discipline, which will be very rarely 
 needed after the first three or four days, if the 
 animal be "mouthed" in the manner -I shall here- 
 after describe. Without using any forcible methods, 
 which, as a rule, would not be required with a 
 valuable horse, the breaker ought not to need more 
 than a week to make any ordinary horse thoroughly 
 fit for all the usual requirements of saddle or 
 harness. 
 
 To those who might advance the argument that 
 because the ordinary method of breaking takes 
 
ORDINARY BREAKING. 35 
 
 about ten times as long as the system I advocate, 
 it must, therefore, be more permanent in its influ- 
 ence, I would beg to submit that such a conten- 
 tion would hold good, only, on the untenable suppo- 
 sition that the effects of the respective processes 
 were equal in force. I see no possible benefit, except 
 the very questionable one of giving the animal an 
 exaggerated opinion of his own powers of resis- 
 tance, in taking a month to accomplish what may be 
 quite as efficiently done in an hour ; as, for instance, 
 making a fractious horse steady to mount, or quiet 
 to shoe behind, or a sulky refuser to jump kindly. 
 We must surely admit that the repetition of an 
 effect, and not the time occupied in its production, 
 is the cause of the permanency of its influence. 
 
 The ordinary method of breaking. The usual 
 method of rendering horses docile by early and 
 continued handling, followed by patient and skilful 
 riding, answers fairly well with men who regard 
 breaking as a pleasure, and have plenty of spare 
 
 D 2 
 
36 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 time to indulge their taste in this respect. It is, 
 however, inapplicable to circumstances under which 
 the number of animals to be broken is out of 
 proportion to the supply of labour ; especially in the 
 case of inexpensive stock. It is, also, besides being 
 tedious, often ineffective in the reduction to obe- 
 dience of " spoiled horses," and of those that have 
 been allowed to run wild for a considerable time 
 before being " taken up " ; the reason being, that it 
 does not supply us with means for enforcing our 
 commands, then and there, on exceptionally unruly 
 animals, which, in order to be rendered docile, must 
 be confirmed in the habit of obedience. 
 
 Breaking by kindness alone. While fully ad- 
 miring the kindness of heart of those enthusiasts 
 who regard a horse as a friend to be won by 
 affection, I must say that the better plan for 
 making him a useful member of society, is to treat 
 him as a servant who has to be taught his work, 
 and from whom implicit obedience has to be 
 
THE ROUGH AND READY STYLE. 37 
 
 demanded. Until he does his work honestly and 
 well, the less petting he gets the better ; for he is 
 an animal that is very apt to become headstrong 
 and fractious, by a small amount of indulgence in his 
 own way. I entirely deprecate any fighting with 
 the horse, or punishment with whip and spur, which 
 he can resist ; but I insist on the necessity after 
 proving to the horse that he has nothing to fear, 
 and after teaching him to understand one's wishes 
 of shewing that he must obey. I shall endeavour, 
 in due course, to explain to the reader how such 
 obedience can be peremptorily enforced. 
 
 The rough and ready style of breaking. The 
 method of reducing a horse to discipline, by forcibly 
 securing him, getting on his back, and sticking on 
 until he bucks himself to a standstill, is applicable 
 only to unbroken animals of a more or less mature 
 age, whose owners demand nothing further, than to 
 have them made " quiet to ride." The objections to 
 this method, as far as I can see, are : that it is not 
 
38 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 always possible to obtain the services of a rider 
 
 of sufficient pluck and adhesiveness ; that some 
 
 horses, by " throwing themselves over," can get rid 
 
 of any man off their back ; that if the horse wins 
 
 the fight, the victory will have the effect of making 
 
 him much worse than he was before ; that the 
 
 mastery, even if the process be repeated, is, often, 
 
 not permanent, especially with a new rider ; that it 
 
 is apt to spoil the horse's mouth ; and that, in the 
 
 case of nervous or sulky animals, it is liable to 
 
 increase their particular faults. The buckjumping 
 
 style of breaking is, of course, only good as far 
 
 as it goes, and has no just claim to teach the 
 
 manners that make the horse, as assuredly as they 
 
 do the man. 
 
 Summary of the principles of the art of rendering 
 Horses docile may be summed up as follows : 
 
 1. To obtain control over the animal. 
 
 2. To prove to him that he has nothing to fear 
 from us, or from the surroundings in which we place 
 
PRINCIPLES OF BREAKING. 39 
 
 him : in other words, to give him " confidence " and 
 cure him of " nervousness." 
 
 3. To teach him to understand the meaning of the 
 indications by which we desire to convey our orders 
 to him. 
 
 4. To make him obey our orders in the most 
 implicit manner, in the event of his offering deliber- 
 ate resistance to them. 
 
 5. To instruct him how to use his powers to the 
 best advantage. 
 
 6. To make, by repetition, these acts of obedience 
 and " cleverness " thus taught, into confirmed 
 habits ; so that the horse, who is, essentially, an 
 animal of habit, may become a permanently useful 
 servant. 
 
 As an illustration, I may say that we should 
 conduct the education of a colt or filly, according to 
 the principles we should adopt with a recently- caught 
 young savage whom we desired to make a useful 
 servant. While shewing him that we had complete 
 control over him, we should prove to him that he 
 
40 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 had nothing to fear from us, and, in doing so, 
 would gain his confidence and affection. We 
 should teach him our language, and, according as he 
 understood our words, so should we demand implicit 
 obedience to our orders, and would, thus, quickly 
 establish the desired habit. 
 
CHAPTER II. 
 
 PRINCIPLES OF MOUTHING. 
 
 Making a horse obey the rein Manner in which a horse should 
 carry his head and neck, when in motion Suitability of the 
 horse to the bridle How the mouth-piece should act 
 Teaching the horse to bend his neck to the rein Proper 
 direction for the pull of the reins The running martingale 
 Bearing, reins, side reins, and running reins Teaching 
 the horse to turn Reining back Lunging Good hands 
 Snaffles and curbs Elastic reins on dumb jockeys The 
 standing martingale Nose-bands. 
 
 Making a Horse obey the rein. In mouthing, we 
 should act on the principle I have advocated, in the 
 preceding chapter, of making our equine servant 
 accord ready obedience to the lawful commands of 
 his master ; after we have taught him to understand 
 our wishes expressed by the proper " indications." 
 The breaker will do well always to bear in mind 
 
42 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 the old maxim, that "a horse should never get the 
 chance of pulling successfully against the bit, or 
 unsuccessfully against the collar." As a man on 
 foot has as thorough command over a horse, as the 
 animal has over its rider supposing that both know 
 how to exercise their respective powers the 
 breaker should, naturally, commence his mouthing 
 lessons on foot, and should, as a rule, refrain from 
 giving the horse the advantage of having him in the 
 saddle, until the habit of obedience to rein, leg, 
 and, if need be, to voice, is fully confirmed. In all 
 this, we act on the retentiveness of the horse's 
 memory, which is his strongest mental quality, in 
 guarding ourselves from the ill consequences that 
 might ensue from the exercise of the animal's 
 reasoning powers, which, luckily for us, are com- 
 paratively feeble, or from his natural impatience of 
 control. 
 
 With some horses, especially with those that 
 have learned to know their own power, the process 
 of inculcating the habit of obedience to the rein, by 
 
STYLE OF GOING. 43 
 
 simply working on the horse's mouth, may be in- 
 effective, or may be too tedious for practical re- 
 quirements. In such a case, I would advocate 
 the advisability of exacting obedie'nce, in the first 
 instance, by some readily feasible method, as advo- 
 cated on page 1 1 ; so as to impress the animal with 
 the idea of our supreme power over him, and to 
 banish from his mind any thought of resisting our 
 will, even on a point concerning which he would 
 always prove victorious, had he sufficient intelligence 
 to see through our artifice. Our power over the 
 horse, when we are on his back, being necessarily 
 limited in extent, it follows that, with all our 
 teaching, we may, at times, be unable to control our 
 mounts. 
 
 Although young horses, well bred and truly 
 shaped, will, generally, "carry" themselves to the 
 best advantage, we may find that many animals, 
 even in a state of freedom, and, more particularly, 
 those that have been in bad hands, contract a stiff 
 and awkward carriage, which, as a rule, may be 
 
44 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 easily remedied by two or three days' " mouthing," 
 on the system I shall describe further on, followed 
 by good handling and the ordinary routine of saddle, 
 or harness work. I in no way mean to say that 
 careful riding or driving would not, in time, accom- 
 plish the object in view, without the aid of the 
 work on foot ; but I maintain that the preliminary 
 mouthing is invaluable in the saving of time, and 
 that it can produce effects which are unattainable 
 by any rider, however good his hands may be. 
 
 Manner in which a Horse should carry his head 
 and neck, when in motion. When the animal takes 
 a stride to the front, the fore-limb, which is con- 
 nected to the body by muscular attachment, is 
 drawn forwards and upwards by certain muscles of 
 the neck ; their action being naturally regulated 
 by the depression or elevation of the head. If 
 the head be unduly raised, the forward reach of 
 the fore-legs will be curtailed by this " high " style 
 of going ; and the speed will, consequently, suffer. 
 
CARRIAGE OF THE HEAD AND NECK. 45 
 
 If, on the contrary, the head be brought down too 
 low, the animal, if at the gallop or canter, instead 
 of " going level," will have a more or less pitching 
 motion, from too much weight being thrown on 
 his forehand ; and will lose time in his stride by 
 excessive bending of his knees, which is necessary 
 to enable his feet, in that case, to clear the ground. 
 
 Owing to the variety in the conformation of 
 different horses, and in the work they are called 
 upon to do, it is impossible to lay down any fixed 
 rule as to the angle at which the neck should be 
 carried : a fact that is of little moment ; as expe- 
 rience will enable us to form a sufficiently near 
 approximation for all practical purposes. 
 
 The neck muscles, which draw the fore-limb 
 forward, will naturally act to the best advantage 
 when the neck vertebrae are extended on each 
 other ; that is, when the neck is straight. Accord- 
 ing as the neck is bent, so will this forward "pull" 
 be diminished. 
 
 The chief muscle that draws the fore-limb 
 
46 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 forward is attached to the head in such a manner, 
 that it acts best when the head is carried, more 
 or less, at right angles to the neck. Hence, we 
 may take for granted, especially, as the correctness 
 of the assumption can be verified by experience, 
 that this position of the head is the best one for 
 requirements demanding the exhibition of speed, 
 or strength. For military purposes, " pace " is to 
 some extent sacrificed for obtaining increased 
 control and " handiness." 
 
 Suitability of the Horse to the bridle. When 
 the horse carries his head and neck in an easy, 
 natural manner, in fact, in the best one for the 
 display of his powers as we have seen in the 
 preceding paragraphs of this chapter the mouth- 
 piece of the snaffle will rest on the " bars " of the 
 mouth, as long as the reins are held not much 
 above the level of the withers. Hence, from the 
 peculiar conformation of the horse, we obtain two 
 special advantages for rendering him obedient to 
 
ACTION OF THE MOUTH-PIECE. 47 
 
 the rein. First, the " bars "that portion of the 
 gums of the lower jaw which are devoid of teeth 
 and which are in front of the molars are 
 singularly suitable for the application of pressure ; 
 being sensitive and smooth. Secondly, when the 
 horse carries his head and neck in the best 
 manner for facilitating his movements, the mouth- 
 piece will be in the position easiest for the rider 
 or driver to control the animal by the reins. The 
 breaker's task, therefore, as regards the carriage 
 of the horse's head and neck, will simply be to 
 teach him to carry them in a perfectly natural way. 
 
 How the mouth-piece should act. If an impetuous, 
 hard-pulling horse gets his head up and tries to 
 ''break away" with a good rider, the man will 
 ease the reins, " drop his hands," and wait till 
 the animal lowers its head, before he takes a pull : 
 a rule that is followed by all our best horsemen. 
 When the animal finds its head released, he will 
 quickly bring it "down." The reasons for not 
 
48 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 pulling at the reins when the head is " up," are : 
 that, when it is carried in this position, the mouth- 
 piece falls on the corners of the mouth, pressure 
 against which, we find by experience, is not effective 
 in restraining the horse ; and that the horse 
 will not, as a rule, lower his head as long as the 
 rider continues to haul on the reins. As soon as 
 the head is brought down into its natural position, 
 the pressure of the mouth-piece will fall on the 
 bars. We may readily conceive, that far more 
 pain results from the superficial nerves of the bars 
 being squeezed between two hard bodies the 
 mouth-piece and the bone than that caused by 
 pressure on the loose and mobile tissue which forms 
 the corners of the mouth. If, in the case I have 
 imagined, the horse tries to get his head too low 
 down, our typical good rider will endeavour to 
 make the animal bring it into its proper position. 
 The relief to the mouth obtained by arching the 
 neck and bringing the chin close in to the chest, as 
 some hard-mouthed horses will do, is due to a 
 
BENDING TO THE REIN. 49 
 
 portion of the pull of the reins being, then, taken 
 by the crown-piece of the bridle ; instead of the 
 whole of the pressure, as it should do, falling on 
 the bars. A horse may, also, by stretching his 
 head out, get the mouth-piece off the bars, and on 
 to the corners of the mouth. It is needless to say 
 that such actions on his part, are done with the 
 object of ''saving" the mouth. As they are 
 opposed to the possession of proper control over 
 the horse, the breaker should teach him to abandon, 
 if he has learnt, these tricks, and to acquire the 
 habit of bending his neck to the rein, and 
 slackening his speed, as his sole defence against 
 the pressure of the mouth-piece. The only alter- 
 native I can see for the use of pressure on the 
 bars, would be its application on the nose by some 
 form of nose-band. 
 
 Teaching the Horse to bend his neck to the rein. 
 Having taught the horse to hold his head, when he 
 is ridden or driven, in an easy, natural position 
 
50 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 namely, in one that will allow the mouth-piece 
 always to rest on the bars we must then teach 
 him, on the reins being " felt," to bend his neck in 
 order to ''save" his mouth. The partial check to 
 the action of the muscles that draw the fore-limb 
 forward, caused by the bending of the neck (see 
 page 45) will be an easily understood signal to the 
 animal to moderate his pace. 
 
 Proper direction for the pull of the reins. When 
 the horse is in motion, the forward propulsion by the 
 hind-legs is given through the hip-joints ; while that 
 by the fore-limbs, passes through, we may roughly 
 say, the elbow-joints. As the former impetus 
 greatly exceeds the latter, we may assume that the 
 centre of motion is a little in front of, and a little 
 below the level of, the hip-joints. To comply with 
 mechanical requirements, any pressure of the bridle 
 on the mouth must, therefore, be in the direction of 
 this centre of motion, so that the regularity of the 
 stride may be interfered with as little as possible. 
 
GOING LEVEL. 51 
 
 The rule, taught by experience, of holding the 
 hands, when riding, and especially when galloping, 
 just below the withers, is in entire agreement with 
 this fact. 
 
 If the rider's hands be unduly raised, so as to 
 make the horse carry his head too high, there will 
 be too much weight put on the hind-quarters. 
 
 As a point of interest, I may state that, under 
 ordinary circumstances, when a horse begins to tire 
 in his gallop, he will, instead of " going level," 
 throw increased weight on his forehand, and his 
 croup, when his hind-quarters make their stroke, 
 will become more and more raised. To accurately 
 express this " dwelling on his stride," we may say, 
 that as the horse becomes fatigued, the forward 
 motion becomes, proportionately, converted into one 
 of rotation, the chief cause of this being that the 
 weight of the rider falls principally on the forehand. 
 Hence, we find that, at the finish of a race, a good 
 jockey "sits down" in his saddle, "catches a good 
 hold " of the animal's head, and holds his hands a 
 
 E 2 
 
52 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 little above the withers : actions on his part which 
 tend to relieve the horse's forehand of weight, and, 
 consequently, to make him use his powers to the 
 best advantage. 
 
 In military riding, which demands special control 
 over the animal's movements, the horse's head is 
 drawn in, and the rider's hand raised, much more 
 than they would be in ordinary work. 
 
 The running martingale. The legitimate uses of 
 this gear are to aid in keeping the horse straight, 
 and to prevent the reins going over his head ; but 
 not to keep the head down. If this martingale be 
 so short as to exert a downward pull on the reins, 
 too much weight will be thrown on the forehand. 
 If the horse raises his head even when this martin- 
 gale is lengthened out, so as to bring its rings on a 
 level with the withers, when it is pulled up, the 
 downward direction of the reins, from the mouth- 
 piece to the rings of the martingale, will produce 
 the same ill effect. Hence, it is a maxim among all 
 
THE RUNNING MARTINGALE. 53 
 
 good jockeys, that the head of the race-horse, with 
 whom a level style of galloping is one of the chief 
 essentials to success, should be kept down by' the 
 rider's hands, and not by the running martingale. 
 It is the custom, therefore, among jockeys, when 
 they use this gear, to lengthen it out, so that, when 
 it is drawn up, to test its length, its rings will come 
 up to the angle of the lower jaw, when the head is 
 held in a natural position a length which will 
 obviate any chance of there being a downward 
 pull on the reins. 
 
 In the training of a race-horse that " star-gazes," 
 the use of a running martingale, in order to keep 
 his head down, besides interfering with his action, 
 is detrimental to the soundness of his Jegs and 
 feet, by reason of the extra weight thrown, thereby, 
 on his forehand. 
 
 Respecting the injurious effects of hampering the 
 action of the neck muscles, and of putting a severe 
 downward pressure on the mouth, especially during 
 rapid motion, I may quote the following interesting 
 
54 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 extract from ' White's Veterinary Art/ which was 
 written many years ago : " There is a great danger, 
 however, of attempting to make the mouth at the 
 time of riding, by means of a running rein ; for if he 
 is a stubborn or runaway horse, there is great danger 
 of throwing him down, and in the most dangerous 
 manner that can be. For, if he is determined to 
 run away, and the rider endeavours to prevent him 
 by a running rein, in drawing the nose down to his 
 chest, the muscles of the shoulder are so restrained 
 that he must of necessity pull him down topsy- 
 turvy. Since the body being propelled by the 
 muscles of the hind parts, the restraint thus 
 imposed upon the extensor muscles of the fore-leg, 
 prevents their being thrown out to the extent 
 required, and he comes down with the most danger- 
 ous violence. I have known this accident happen 
 with horses that have had upright shoulders and 
 very well-formed hind parts ; and I have also known 
 very safe horses, that have contracted a habit of 
 going with their noses poked out, become very 
 
BEARING REINS. 55 
 
 unsafe, and soon get broken knees by the en- 
 deavour to improve their carnage by a martingale 
 or running rein." 
 
 Bearing reins, side reins, and running reins. I 
 would dispense with the use, in breaking, of these 
 three appliances, as ordinarily employed ; for the 
 first acts by exerting pressure on the corners of the 
 bars, while the other two tend to keep the head in 
 an unnaturally low position. Were the side reins 
 lengthened out so as to act as a properly arranged 
 standing martingale (see page 70), or were the 
 running reins attached high up on the saddle; as 
 near as possible on the level of the withers, their 
 use would be wholly unobjectionable. With the 
 long reins (see page 172), the standing martingale 
 (see page 70), and driving pad (see page 166), the 
 horse can be quickly taught to carry himself 
 properly, without any injurious effect being pro- 
 duced. 
 
56 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 Teaching the Horse to tiirn. When we fail to 
 make a horse turn properly, we find, almost always, 
 that our want of success is due to the animal's hind- 
 quarters not " coming round " in concert with his 
 head and neck, which, as a rule, can be " bent " to 
 the right or left with facility. I venture to dis- 
 sent, with all diffidence, from the principle of the 
 " suppling" lessons enjoined by that great master of 
 equitation, M. Baucher, as first steps for " forming 
 the mouth," for teaching the horse to bring his head 
 round to one side or the other, according to the 
 indication used, while the hind limbs remain fixed. 
 To my thinking, precision in the simple movements 
 of advancing to the front, reining back, and 
 turning, should be sought for, before attempting 
 any artificial evolutions, such as the " passage," 
 and "shoulder-in," only, in which, the bending of 
 the head and neck is made independently of that 
 of the hind-quarters. As, in riding, all turns should 
 be made with the aid of the support of the 
 "outward leg" a fact too widely recognized for the 
 
Fig. I. Horse bending his neck to the rein without swinging round his hind- 
 quarters at the same time, in answer to the pull. 
 
TURNING. 59 
 
 necessity of proof here we should teach our pupil, 
 from the outset, to avail himself of such assistance. 
 As the rider's weight tends to advance the position 
 of the centre of gravity, the natural turn, especially 
 at fast-paces, will be a compromise between the turn 
 "on the centre," and that " on the haunches." I 
 may remark, that the further the weight is thrown 
 back, and the greater is the support of the outward 
 leg, the more will the turn be made on the 
 haunches. The use of this leg-pressure, although 
 necessitated by the unequal distribution of the rider's 
 weight, is, besides this, valuable in all sharp turns 
 made at speed. The turn " on the forehand" can 
 be taught by the rider, after the simpler one is 
 mastered. In treating about turning, I draw no 
 distinction between the saddle and harness horse ; 
 for the latter should be made as " clever" as the 
 former, in " collecting" himself and " coming 
 round." 
 
 Let us suppose that a horse is ridden at a fence, 
 A B (see Fig. i), and that he "runs out" to the 
 
60 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 left ; although the rider has pulled the animal's head 
 round to the right, in his endeavour to keep him 
 straight. In this case, the horse yielded to the rein 
 with his neck, but refused to swing round his hind- 
 quarters a movement, on his part, which would 
 have brought him at right angles to the fence (see 
 Fig. 2) ; so that he would have had either to jump 
 or to stop, neither of which actions would affect in 
 any way the precision with which the turn had 
 been made. Again, if a horse jibs in harness, 
 and refuses to turn, say, to the right, we shall, in 
 the vast majority of cases, have no difficulty in 
 making him turn his head round in the required 
 direction, although he will obstinately keep his 
 hind-quarters fixed. The same may be said of a 
 horse that rears. If these animals would only turn 
 their hind-quarters round with the same facility that 
 they bend their necks, they would lose their 
 strongest " defence " against our "aids" (the reins 
 and legs of the rider). It is evident that in 
 every turn, the hind-quarters have to move round 
 
IV 
 
 Fig. 2. Shews horse having answered the pull of off rein as he should, and 
 consequently coming straight at his fence. 
 
REINING BACK. 63 
 
 in the opposite direction to the head and neck ; the 
 centre round which the movement is made, being 
 advanced or brought back, according as the turn 
 is made "on the forehand," or " on the haunches." 
 
 Reining back. It is an axiom of the riding-school, 
 worthy of implicit acceptance, that, until a horse has 
 learned to rein back with facility and precision, he 
 cannot be considered to have a good mouth ; for, by 
 performing this movement in the manner described, 
 he shews that he is intelligently obedient to the 
 indications of the rein, in yielding to its pressure, 
 and, at the same time, in bringing his hind-legs 
 "well under" him. Herein lies the value of the 
 practice of reining back, which teaches the animal 
 to understand that a pull on the reins is quite as 
 much a signal for him to " collect" himself, as to 
 moderate his pace. Hence, the use of a judicious 
 pull when going at high " timber," or when galloping 
 through heavy ground, especially, when the horse is 
 tired. If, when travelling fast, the animal will only 
 
64 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 bend his neck to the rein, while letting his hind- 
 quarters sprawl out behind, he will quickly tire, and 
 will, also, be a most unsafe " conveyance," from 
 inability to raise his forehand, as occasion may 
 require. 
 
 Lunging. Although lunging usually forms a 
 considerable portion of the work given to young 
 horses, during their period of breaking, I mention it, 
 here, solely with the object of advising its discon- 
 tinuance altogether. Making a horse circle with the 
 weight on his forehand, while his hind-quarters are 
 " thrown out," not alone teaches him an awkward 
 style of moving, but is also a fertile cause of sprain 
 to the tendons and ligaments of the fore-limb. 
 Again, as it is much more easy for the vast majority 
 of men to keep turning round in one direction in 
 one opposite to that in which the hands of a clock 
 revolve, for right-handed people than in the other ; 
 it follows, that the generality of men, when they 
 lunge a colt or filly, will circle the young one more 
 
GOOD HANDS. 65 
 
 to the left than to the right ; just as we may see 
 done any day on Newmarket Heath, opposite the 
 railway station. The injurious effects of such a 
 practice are self-evident. I shall describe, further 
 on, a method of circling a horse the breaker being 
 on foot by which the animal is made to move in a 
 thoroughly " balanced " manner, and by which his 
 mouth can be " formed " at the same time. I am 
 confident that all good horsemen to whom it is new, 
 will, on seeing how it is done, adopt it unreservedly. 
 I am aware that the practice of lunging is discredited 
 by many good breakers who are unacquainted with 
 the method of circling which I have introduced. 
 
 Good Aands.The term " Good hands" signifies 
 the ability of taking a pull at the rein supposing 
 it be required when the horse's head is in the 
 proper position for the mouth-piece to act on the 
 "bars" of the animal's mouth; and of slackening 
 them when the horse attempts to escape the 
 pressure by bringing his head into a wrong position, 
 
66 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 or when the animal yields to the indication of the 
 rein. The action of the mouth-piece, and the ad- 
 visability of refraining from pulling at the reins 
 when the head is in a wrong position, have been 
 fully dealt with in the preceding pages. I may, 
 however, draw attention to the fact that when the 
 horse's head is in the wrong position for the action 
 of the bridle, it is in an unfavourable one for the 
 movements of the fore-limb ; being raised or de- 
 pressed to an undue extent, or too much flexed or 
 extended on the neck (i.e. chin drawn in, or poked 
 out). Hence, the natural tendency of the horse will 
 be, if his mouth be not interfered with, to bring his 
 head in the position which is the best for his own 
 movements, and which is the most suitable for 
 the action of the mouth-piece of the bridle. A 
 hard-pulling horse, for instance, ridden or driven by 
 a man with " good hands," will, probably, get his 
 head " up," on feeling the pressure of the mouth- 
 piece, when he tries to break away. Being incon- 
 venienced in his movements by this awkward carriage 
 
MUTTON-FIST. 67 
 
 of the head, and lacking, on account of the slackness 
 of the reins, the incentive to keep it " up," he lowers 
 it, to again experience the restraining pull. This 
 will, probably, go on for a few times, until, wearied 
 by a contest in which he finds himself baffled, he 
 yields to the indication of the rein, and slackens his 
 pace. Feeling that he " saves " his mouth the 
 moment he does this, by the rider " giving" to him, 
 he remains "in hand" for the rest of the journey. 
 The typical " mutton-fisted " man, on the contrary, 
 will keep hauling away at the reins, after the horse 
 has got the mouth-piece on to the corners of the 
 mouth, or, by getting his chin into his chest, and his 
 head down, has transferred the pressure on to his 
 poll. Consequently, the animal, experiencing the 
 relief thus obtained, will naturally conclude that he 
 has got the best of the battle, and will continue on 
 his own course as long as he pleases. The harder 
 such a man pulls on the reins, the more likely will 
 he be to incite the animal to shew fight. * In this 
 case, the man foolishly pits the strength of his arms 
 
 F 2 
 
68 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 against the greatly superior power of the horse's 
 neck. The rider with good hands, on the contrary, 
 uses a pull on the reins, merely as a means of letting 
 the animal know, that, if it will obey his wishes, it 
 will "save " its own mouth ; a hint which, as a rule, 
 is readily taken. I need hardly say that the severer 
 the bit, the better should be the hands of the man 
 who employs it. A really fine horseman can ride 
 with success in almost any kind of bit. 
 
 Snaffles and curbs. The only advantage pos- 
 sessed by the curb over the snaffle is, as a rule, its 
 greater power of control. This superiority is at- 
 tended with the serious objections that : (i) the use 
 of the curb is, often, irritating to the horse, who, if 
 roused, can always successfully resist its control ; 
 and (2) that it is, more or less, detrimental to the 
 action of the horse, by tending to make him averse 
 from " going up to his bridle," and by obliging him, 
 so as to " save " his mouth, to carry his head in a 
 more or less constrained manner. As we can easily 
 
D UMB JOCKE VS. 6 9 
 
 obtain the necessary control with the snaffle during 
 breaking, it is evident that we should altogether 
 dispense with the use of the curb during this pro- 
 cess, so as to avoid the introduction of any dis- 
 turbing element in the working out of the principle 
 of using indications, rather than severity. 
 
 The thin, so-called, racing snaffle should not be 
 used ; as it is apt to wound the bars of the mouth, 
 and thereby irritate the horse into shewing fight, 
 which is the very thing we should seek to avoid 
 while using the reins, of which, when we are in the 
 saddle or driving seat, we are masters only on 
 sufferance. 
 
 Elastic reins on dumb jockeys. These contrivances 
 should not be employed in breaking ; for they never 
 allow the complete freedom from pressure which the 
 horse should experience as a reward for obedience, 
 when he bends his neck and yields to the rein ; unless, 
 indeed, the elastic lines are ineffectually loose, or the 
 animal draws in his head to an immoderate extent. 
 
70 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 The standing martingale. The use of this martin- 
 gale is to prevent the horse from getting the mouth- 
 
 Fig. 3. The proper length for a standing martingale. 
 
 piece off the bars, when he throws up his head. 
 
THE STANDING MARTINGALE. 71 
 
 Hence, if we employ it lengthened out, so that it 
 will be just short enough to accomplish this object, 
 and no more (see Fig. 3), it will give us the immense 
 advantage of having the mouth-piece always in an 
 effective position, with but little drawback. I, here, 
 suppose that it is attached to the rings of the snaffle 
 and not to the nose-band. At first glance, it may be 
 considered that this mechanical restraint would be a 
 constant source of danger, in the event of the animal 
 getting into difficulties. I have frequently heard 
 it urged, but only by men who had not seen its use 
 practically demonstrated, that if a horse, on making 
 a " blunder" at a fence, could not extend his head 
 more than the properly lengthened out martingale 
 would allow him to do, he would, being thus 
 deprived of this supposed means of recovering his 
 equilibrium, run a great risk of falling. We may 
 see the fallacy of this argument, if we consider that 
 the only effect of this poking out of the head, is to 
 endanger the equilibrium, which becomes unstable, 
 the moment a perpendicular line drawn through the 
 
72 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 centre of gravity, falls beyond the fore-feet. We 
 find, therefore, by- observing the comparative tight- 
 ness, before and after jumping, of the standing mar- 
 tingale, that the horse's tendency, when fencing, is 
 to bring his head back, on advancing the fore-limbs. 
 If he adopts, with the martingale on, the other and 
 unsafe course, the pain caused by the consequent 
 severe pressure of the mouth-piece on the bars, will 
 soon teach him to save his mouth by holding his 
 head in a proper position. Besides the increased 
 control obtained by the mouth-piece always remain- 
 ing on the bars, the presence of the standing 
 martingale, by stopping him from poking out his 
 nose, will tend to prevent him going " uncol- 
 lectedly " behind, and, even on this account alone, 
 will be specially useful for the hunter, chaser, and 
 polo pony. Whatever be the horse's work, whether 
 on the flat, across country, or in harness, he should 
 be ridden or driven in a standing martingale, if he 
 has the habit of trying to get the mouth-piece off 
 the bars of the mouth, or has any tendency to go 
 
THE STANDING MARTINGALE. 73 
 
 uncollectedly. Objection to its use can be taken, 
 only, in the case of the 'cross-country horse, who 
 will be much more liable to be brought to grief by 
 the practice of either of the faults just mentioned, 
 than by this martingale. When he has learnt to 
 carry himself properly, but not till then, should its 
 employment be discontinued. Its constant use 
 quickly teaches the horse to hold his head and 
 to carry himself in the desired style ; for obedience 
 to the indications it automatically affords, is at once 
 rewarded by relief to the mouth. No such useful 
 lesson can be learned by the employment of the 
 running martingale ; for, with it, no saving of the 
 mouth is obtained by any yielding of the head and 
 neck to the rein. When it is on, whatever relief 
 is procured, must be the result of the action of 
 the rider's hands, which cannot possibly " give 
 and take " with the same precision as the fixed 
 martingale. I may mention, that this gear has 
 the great advantage of preventing a rider with 
 "bad hands," from hauling on the reins when 
 
74 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 the mouth-piece is on the corners of the mouth. 
 Hence, the worse the rider, the more need he has 
 of using a standing martingale with a horse that 
 requires one. 
 
 That good horseman, Mr. Blew of The Field, 
 remarks to me that he has seen one or two falls 
 result from the use of the standing martingale, in 
 cases of horses, out hunting, getting their fore-feet 
 into a deep " gripe," and, then, being prevented by 
 this gear, from throwing up the head, and, thus, 
 relieving the fore-hand. He, consequently, advises 
 that it should be employed, only, in breaking. 
 Those fine steeplechase riders, Colonel Hickman of 
 the 2ist Hussars and Colonel Wardrop of the 
 1 2th Lancers, as well as many other good 'cross- 
 country performers, consider, with me, that its 
 addition renders horses requiring such restraint, 
 safer over fences than they would be without it. 
 Although the solution of this debatable question 
 may be left to each man's own individual feeling on 
 the matter, there can be no doubt as to its para- 
 
THE STANDING MARTINGALE. 75 
 
 mount importance in breaking, which is the subject, 
 at present, before us. 
 
 The statement may be advanced, that men with 
 really fine hands will gain nothing from the employ- 
 ment of the standing martingale. I entirely dissent 
 from this ; for it is impossible for any man, however 
 delicate his touch may be, or strong his arms, to 
 prevent, as this martingale will do, the animal from 
 getting his head up, and thereby successfully re- 
 sisting control, for the time being. I may mention 
 that many of our finest Irish riders are its devoted 
 admirers. 
 
 When a horse pulls hard, he will, almost invari- 
 ably, try to advance his chin further than the 
 standing martingale at a proper length, let it be 
 understood will allow him to do. Hence, this 
 amount of restraint will always be a direct saving to 
 the arms ; while it will be taken off the mouth, and 
 the controlling indication afforded, the moment the 
 animal brings his head back into its natural position. 
 I need hardly explain, that the horse being unable 
 
76 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 to bring forward the bars of the lower jaw, will try, 
 when resisting the action of .the standing martingale, 
 to advance his poll as much as possible, by bending 
 the joint connecting the lower jaw to the head, and 
 that by which the head is attached to the neck. 
 
 If the standing martingale be fixed on to the 
 nose-band, it will fail to act in the manner described ; 
 owing to the fact that the pressure thus exerted on 
 the nose by this strap, causes little or no pain ; 
 unless, indeed, it be specially arranged to produce 
 this effect, as in the way described on page 2 1 7. 
 
 Nose-bands. The use of the nose-band is to 
 prevent the horse relieving the bars of some of the 
 pressure of the mouth-piece, by opening his mouth ; 
 an action on his part which will tend to render this 
 pressure oblique, and to transfer a portion of it to 
 his poll. 
 
( 77 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 HORSE-CONTROL. 
 
 The breaking enclosure Making a rope-halter Haltering a loose 
 horse Making a loose horse stand still Taking up a fore -leg 
 Holding up a fore-leg Tying up a fore-leg Blindfolding 
 a horse Applying the halter-twitch The rope-twitch The 
 head-stall twitch The bridle-twitch The strait-jacket Lift- 
 ing up a hind-leg Gagging a horse. 
 
 The breaking enclosure. In order to carry out 
 the system of breaking horses, it is a great 
 advantage to have a proper enclosure, of about 
 20 yards square, with walls around it about 7 ft. 
 high. The ground inside should be quite soft, 
 so that horses which are made to lie down 
 on it, may not run any chance of hurting them- 
 selves. 
 
 I may here impress on the reader the danger 
 
y8 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 there is to the breaker of having any one 
 standing right behind him when he is handling 
 vicious horses ; for, in such a case, if the animal 
 make an offensive movement, the man will 
 probably knock up against the other, and thus 
 fail to get out of harm's way. 
 
 Making a rope-halter. The simplest way to 
 do this is to take a half-inch rope, about 9 yards 
 long ; make it double for about 3 ft. 6 in. ; put a 
 knot on the doubled part, so as to form a large 
 loop, in which make a small loop, for the leading 
 rein to pass through. The second knot should 
 divide the large loop, so that the head-piece 
 should be about twice as long as the nose-band. 
 The halter will now be ready to be put on (see 
 Figs. 4 and 5). The nose-band may be made 
 sufficiently long, and the loop through which the 
 loose end passes, tight enough to prevent the 
 nose-band and leading rein (the free end of the 
 rope), forming a running noose, which might hurt 
 
ROPE-HALTER. 
 
 79 
 
 the horse. Or, if required, a knot may be made 
 with the leading rein at the ring through which 
 
 Fig. 4. First loop in 
 forming a rope-halter. 
 
 Fig. 5. Second step. 
 
 it passes ; so that the nose-band of the halter may 
 not squeeze the horse's jaws together. 
 
8o ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 The rope employed should be soft, and not too 
 thick, so as to allow the knots to be made with 
 facility. 
 
 The reader will observe, that this halter which I 
 have devised, is only an improvised adaptation, 
 which need not take half a minute to make, of 
 the ordinary rope-halter. I have no doubt that 
 others, prompted by necessity, like myself, have hit 
 on this rough-and-ready method ; although I have 
 never seen a halter made in quite the same manner 
 as I have described. 
 
 Haltering a loose Horse. Let us suppose that 
 the animal is in some suitable enclosure, such as 
 a yard, loose box, or small paddock ; for it is 
 almost needless to say, that if he were at liberty 
 in the open, and averse from being captured, no 
 man unaided could possibly catch him. The first 
 thing to do is to make the rope-halter as described 
 in the preceding part of this chapter if one be 
 not at hand, and then to get the horse to stand 
 
CATCHING THE HORSE. 81 
 
 quietly in some convenient corner. We may make 
 him move, or stop, as may be required, by gently 
 working a long pole held in the hands across the 
 body, alternately, behind and in front of him ; 
 and, having got him into the proper position, we 
 may induce him to stand steady, as I have found 
 by experience, by touching him on the neck, and 
 then rubbing it with the end of the pole. I have 
 hardly ever known this to fail in its object. 
 Horses, almost always, like having their necks 
 scratched. As soon as the animal will stand 
 still, while his neck is being " gentled " with the 
 stick, the halter may be put on the end of the 
 pole by a couple of turns (see Fig. 6), while 
 the free end of the rope may be twisted once or 
 twice round the pole, to prevent it hanging down 
 too low. The operator will now take the pole, 
 with the halter then rigged on to it, and will 
 endeavour to bring the crown-piece of the halter 
 behind the ears, without, frightening the animal ; 
 while holding the end of the pole a little above 
 
 G 
 
82 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 its head (see Fig. 7). He can take the precau- 
 tions I have described, for making the horse stand 
 
 Fig. 6. Rope-halter on pole, ready for use. 
 
 still, as he may think necessary. As soon as the 
 crown-piece of the halter comes behind the ears, 
 
CATCHING THE HORSE. 85 
 
 the operator should swing the pole smartly down 
 in front of the animal's nose, and then under 
 the lower jaw ; a proceeding which will bring 
 the halter into its proper place. Nothing now 
 remains except to withdraw the pole. Care 
 should be taken not to bring the pole under the 
 lower jaw, until the nose-band is in front of the 
 ears ; for, if it remains behind them, when the end 
 of the stick is brought down, the horse will be 
 lassoed and not haltered. The precautions neces- 
 sary to be taken in haltering the horse will depend 
 on the amount of his vice, or timidity. A horse 
 can be thus caught best, when he is standing in 
 the corner of a wall which is too high for him to 
 look over. In a circular enclosure, the animal 
 will be able, by turning round, to defeat the 
 intentions of his would-be captor, much more 
 easily than he could do in a rectangular one. In 
 a roped-in arena, the horse can get his head 
 away from the halter, easier than he could do 
 when close to a wall. There is no fear of a 
 
86 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 horse, however vicious he may be, of " charging 
 home " on the operator, if the man keeps the 
 pole across the animal's face, ready, if need be, 
 to give him a tap or two on the muzzle. The 
 larger the enclosure, the less will a horse attempt 
 to "savage" any one approaching him. In extreme 
 cases, a blow on the forehead might be necessary. 
 I may mention that the brain is covered at the 
 forehead, by only a thin plate of bone. Mr. O. S. 
 Pratt, the American " horse-tamer," gives, in his 
 book, a method for haltering a loose horse, by 
 putting the crown-piece of the halter on the end 
 of the pole (see Fig. 8). In applying this, the 
 horse is very apt to shy away from the halter, 
 which has to be put on from the front. The 
 manner of haltering which I have described, and 
 which was shewn to me by Mr. Banham, 
 F.R.C.V.S., appears to be much better than 
 Pratt's plan. 
 
 Making a loose Horse stand still. If timidity 
 
HALTERING THE HORSE. 87 
 
 is the only cause that renders a loose horse 
 difficult to halter, we may make him stand still 
 after having put him in a proper enclosure, by 
 
 Fig. 8. 
 
 cutting him, with the whip, about the hocks and 
 hind-heels whenever he attempts to turn round, 
 and to shew his hind-quarters to the breaker. 
 If the animal attempts to pass by, the man 
 
ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 should stop him with the point of the whip. As 
 soon as the horse understands that he exposes 
 himself to punishment by turning round, he will, 
 proportionately, abstain from doing so. He will 
 then be readily induced to stand still by the point 
 of the whip preventing him from passing ; and the 
 fear of punishment, from turning round. As a 
 rule, the operator can quickly get up to his fore- 
 hand by " gentling" his crest with the end of the 
 whip or pole, and afterwards with the hand. The 
 foregoing method, which I learned from that ex- 
 cellent teacher, Professor Sample, is not altogether 
 suitable for horses that " strike out in front." 
 The punishment that has to be inflicted during its 
 application, may be an objection to its employment. 
 
 Taking up a fore-leg. Having haltered the 
 horse, we may, in order to gain further control 
 over him, take up a fore-leg in two ways. 
 
 i. If we are afraid that the horse, on our 
 approaching him, will " strike out," or kick, we 
 
NOOSING A FORE-LEG. 93 
 
 may, as Colonel Rawlins, R.H.A., shewed me, 
 form a noose about two feet and a half in 
 diameter, with a rope, and having laid it on the 
 ground, give the free end to an assistant to 
 hold. We may, then, make the horse move 
 about until he places one fore-foot within the 
 noose (see Fig. 9), when the assistant should 
 pull the rope, and thus lasso the pastern. The 
 end of the rope may, now, be thrown over the 
 animal's back to the other side, and the leg 
 pulled up (see Fig. 10) ; or, if the animal will not 
 stand this being done, the leg may be pulled 
 back by the rope, and lifted up by another as- 
 sistant. If the horse " shews fight," it may be 
 necessary to blindfold him at this stage of the 
 proceedings. The long pole may, also, be called 
 into requisition to " gentle " the horse, and thus 
 render him comparatively quiet. The operator 
 can always quickly accomplish his object, in the 
 manner described, if he will only exercise a little 
 patience. 
 
94 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 I may mention that this method of noosing 
 the leg, is precisely similar to that employed in 
 securing the limbs of wild elephants, in India, 
 when they have been driven into a stockade. 
 
 2. The best way for lifting up a fore-leg, with 
 the hand, is, as I have found out, to grasp, say, 
 the near fore, with the left hand; pinch it with 
 the fingers to stimulate the flexors of the knee 
 to contract ; turn the elbow in, and press it 
 against the upper part of the fore-arm, so as to 
 throw the weight from the near, on to the off fore, 
 and thus to render the picking-up of the near 
 fore a very easy matter (see Fig. 1 1). If required, 
 an upward pull is given with the left arm, and 
 the foot is caught with the right hand as the 
 horse lifts it up. I may add, that the muscles 
 against which the man's elbow presses assist in 
 raising the foot from the ground. By this plan 
 the breaker can stand at the side of the leg that 
 has to be raised, and a little away from it, thus 
 keeping out of danger, as much as possible. If 
 
PICKING UP A FORE-LEG. 
 
 95 
 
 he attempts to lift the fore-leg of a bad cow- 
 kicker, in the ordinary way, by catching hold of 
 
 Fig. II. Picking up a fore-leg. 
 
 the pastern, he will run a great risk of getting hit 
 
96 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 on the head or body, by having to stoop down while 
 standing close to, and a little behind, the fore-leg. 
 
 Mr. J. Leach, M.R.C.V.S., shewed me a neat 
 method for lifting up the leg of a heavy cart- 
 horse, by catching the hair of the fetlock, and 
 then drawing up the leg. The slight irritation 
 caused by the pull at the roots of the hair will 
 cause the horse to readily bend the knee. 
 
 Holding up a fore-leg. If the fore-leg be held 
 up by the hand passing under the fetlock or 
 pastern, as is frequently done, the horse, by 
 bearing a portion of his weight on the man's 
 hand, can easily kick with either hind-leg. The 
 foot should, on the contrary, be held by the 
 hoof, under which the fingers pass, while the 
 thumb presses down on the sole (see Fig. 12). 
 The animal will now avoid placing weight on 
 the man's hand ; for by doing so he would cause 
 the joints of the foot to become bent in a pain- 
 ful manner. 
 
HOLDING UP A FORE-LEG. 
 
 97 
 
 Fig. 12. How to hold up a fore-leg. 
 
 II 
 
STRAPPING UP A FORE-LEG. 99 
 
 A convenient way for holding up the fore-leg, 
 for " gentling" and other purposes, is that shewn 
 by Fig. 10. 
 
 Tying up a fore-leg. Having " picked up " 
 the foot, we may secure it as follows: 
 
 i. By Rarey's leg strap, which is about 3 ft. 
 long, and is furnished, at one end, with a buckle, 
 below which, a leather " keeper " is placed on 
 both sides (see Fig. 13). To apply it, the free 
 end is passed round the pastern, from the out- 
 side, through the keeper at the back of the 
 buckle, thus forming a loop. Another turn is 
 taken round the forearm, and a second loop is 
 made by passing the end through the buckle. 
 The strap can now be tightened up as may be 
 required, and the end run through the second 
 keeper. Fig. 14 shews how this can be equally well 
 done with a stirrup leather, with which two or 
 three turns have been taken round the pastern ; 
 so as to bring the punched holes sufficiently near 
 
 H 2 
 
100 
 
 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. - 
 
 the buckle. (See, also, Fig. 16.) The objections 
 to the employment of this method of tying up the 
 leg are : (a) That it is apt to irritate the animal 
 
 Fig. 13. Rarey's leg-strap. 
 
 by the compression needed to keep the strap in 
 its place; (6) That, when the leg is thus fixed, 
 the horse, in the event of his " coming down," 
 
STRAPPING UP A FORE-LEG. 
 
 101 
 
 is liable to hurt his knee, " capped knee" 
 being the usual result of the injury ; on account 
 
 Fig. 14. Tying up fore-leg with stirrup-leather. 
 
 of the broad extensor tendon being, necessarily, 
 tightly stretched over the part. I have had this 
 accident occur, on different occasions, when making 
 
102 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 a horse lie down, even when he had knee-caps 
 on, and when the ground was quite soft ; (c) The 
 fieel of the shoe, if one be on, is apt to bruise 
 and cut the elbow ; (d) The compression exercised 
 by the strap on the fore-arm numbs the leg, and 
 tends to make the animal fall awkwardly, if he 
 is made to lie down ; (e) Unless the strap is 
 kept very tight, it is apt to slip down the fore- 
 arm, and thus exercise an injurious strain on the 
 fetlock joint. 
 
 2. By far the best way for tying up a fore-leg 
 is the one described by Mr. Saunders in ' Our 
 Horses,' by which the leg is simply suspended, at 
 any length required, from the surcingle. Mr. 
 Saunders advises the use of a small loop to 
 connect the surcingle and strap together (see 
 Fig. 15), with the object, I presume, of keeping 
 the limb in a plane parallel to the general direc- 
 tion of the horse's body. This is certainly an 
 advantage when making a horse lie down, although 
 I have found, for ordinary purposes of control, 
 
1 
 
 1 
 
SUSPENDING A FORE-LEG. 105 
 
 that the employment of the small loop may be 
 dispensed with, and the leg-strap passed through 
 the surcingle, or girth. 
 
 This method of suspending the leg is most 
 useful, when gentling the fore-limb, and when 
 shoeing a " difficult " animal ; as the foot can be 
 retained at any convenient height from the ground 
 without irritating the horse, and, consequently, 
 without inciting him to " fight." 
 
 I have learned, on more than one occasion, by 
 bitter experience, that it is possible for a horse to 
 effectually cow-kick with the hind-leg of the side 
 on which a fore-leg is tied up. 
 
 A stirrup leather, with two or three holes 
 punched at convenient distances, will make a 
 capital leg-strap (see Fig. 16). It has the advan- 
 tage of having, at the back of the buckle, no 
 leather keeper, which is always liable to give 
 way, by reason of the strain exerted on it. 
 
 For suspending a fore-leg, we need punch no 
 extra holes in the leather, if we take, as before 
 
io6 
 
 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 described, a few turns with it round the pastern, 
 before passing its end through the lower part of 
 
 Fig. 1 6. A stirrup leather as used for holding up a fore-leg. 
 
 the buckle. This way would naturally take a few 
 seconds longer than if the holes were punched at 
 proper distances, and, consequently, is not as 
 
BLINDFOLDING. 107 
 
 applicable as the other, to horses that are ex- 
 tremely difficult to handle. 
 
 Blindfolding a Horse. After the animal has 
 been secured in the manner described, or after 
 he has been simply haltered, a further step in 
 the process of rendering him helpless may be 
 taken, by throwing a rug, or other convenient 
 cloth, over his head, and then applying the rope- 
 twitch (see page 113). If he be dangerous to 
 approach, the rug may be placed on the end of 
 a long pole, and then brought over his head, or 
 a blindfolding halter may be put on, now, or in 
 the first instance. The originating idea of this 
 appliance is, I believe, of French origin. It 
 consists of an ordinary halter, with a cloth filling 
 up the space between the cheek-pieces, brow- 
 band, and nose-band ; so as to cover the horse's 
 eyes. 
 
 Blindfolding is an efficient means of control 
 with the majority of horses, although it excites 
 
io8 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 some to offer more vigorous resistance than they 
 would otherwise do. I have never found a horse 
 that would, when blindfolded, attempt to kick, or 
 strike out, on the chance of hitting his man, 
 unless he was touched about the limbs or body ; 
 nor bite, whether touched or not, under similar 
 circumstances. I, therefore, think that the breaker 
 runs no risk whatsoever in going up to the 
 animal's head, when it is, thus, temporarily de- 
 prived of sight, no matter how vicious it may be. 
 
 Applying the halter-twitch. At this stage of 
 the proceedings, the breaker may apply a modifica- 
 tion of Pratt's twitch, by making a half hitch 
 with the free part of the rope of the halter, 
 passing the loop over the ears (see Fig. 17), 
 bringing the lower part of the loop under the 
 animal's upper lip, and then pulling it taut (see 
 Fig. 1 8). He may jerk the rope (leading rein) 
 three or four times, accompanying the action on 
 each occasion with the word " steady." I may 
 
THE HALTER-TWITCH. 
 
 109 
 
 mention that the part of the rope which passes 
 
 Fig. 17. The halter-twitch. 
 
 under the upper lip, should be kept slack, except 
 
no ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 when the jerk is given, and that any other 
 
 Fig. i 8. 
 
 suitable word may be substituted for that of 
 " steady." It is now perfectly safe to remove the 
 
THE HALTER-TWITCH. in 
 
 blindfolding apparatus ; as no horse will attempt 
 any aggressive movement towards the man who 
 holds the leading rein, when thus secured. The 
 rope may be jerked and the word " steady" used, 
 as may be required. The pain inflicted by the 
 application of this twitch, is a necessary evil, 
 which may well be disregarded ; for its amount is 
 trifling in comparison with the extent of control 
 obtained by its means. If employed carefully, no 
 mark need be left on the mucous membrane. 
 The proper use of this twitch is thoroughly 
 rational, for it keeps the horse quiet by its deter- 
 rent effect, and not by retaining the horse in a 
 continued state of suffering, as is done by the 
 ordinary twitch. The word " steady," or any 
 convenient substitute for it, should never be 
 omitted ; for, after the animal has learned, as he 
 will do in a minute or two, to connect it with 
 the idea of pain, the twitch may be removed, 
 and the word alone used, in order to keep him 
 in subjection. In this experiment, it is evident 
 
ii2 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 that the horse fears the word, and not the twitch ; 
 for, no matter how often the rope is put on, he 
 will not resent its application more than he did 
 on the first occasion. The oftener, on the 
 contrary, the ordinary twitch is employed, the 
 shyer will the animal become of having his muzzle 
 touched. The chief advantages of the rope- 
 twitch over the common one, are : that it can be 
 easier procured and applied ; it does not inflict so 
 much pain, which, with it, is momentary, and not 
 continuous, as with the other ; it is more effec- 
 tive ; it is not so liable to slip off ; it can be 
 retained in position for any reasonable length of 
 time, to be used as required ; it has a more or 
 less permanently good effect on the horse's 
 temper, and not a bad one, like the other ; and 
 it does not make the horse shy of having his 
 mouth touched. The fact of numbers of horses 
 being rendered difficult to bridle, by the employ- 
 ment of the ordinary twitch, will, naturally, occur 
 to the reader. The general substitution of this 
 
THE ROPE-TWITCH. 113 
 
 twitch for the ordinary one, by veterinary surgeons, 
 would certainly remove a grave reproach against 
 us which now exists. It is, of course, used by 
 them, only, faute de mieux. 
 
 If, when the ordinary twitch is twisted up 
 tight, its stick be struck or jerked, as some do, 
 on the animal moving, it will doubtless have a 
 deterrent effect, as well as the one produced by 
 the brutal and needless infliction of continued 
 pain. 
 
 The rope-twitch. Everything I have said in 
 the preceding paragraphs, respecting the halter- 
 twitch, applies equally well to its original form, 
 as described in Mr. O. S. Pratt's book, 'The 
 Horse's Friend,' which was published at Buffalo in 
 1876. Mr. C. G. Frasier, who was Pratt's as- 
 sistant for some years, in America, tells me, that 
 this twitch was not invented by Pratt, long before 
 whose time it was in use. He thinks that 
 it was, probably, the idea of the " horse-tamer," 
 
n 4 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 Fanchion, who practised his art many years ago 
 in the States. Pratt calls it " the double-hitch 
 Bonaparte bridle." It is made as follows : Take 
 
 Fig. 19. Pratt's rope-twitch, first portion. 
 
 a rope, and make a simple knot with it at one 
 end, at a distance of about eighteen inches from 
 which make another knot loosely, and pass the 
 
PR ATT 'S TWITCH. 
 
 first knot through the second, so as to form a 
 
 Fig. 20. Pratt's twitch completed. 
 
 loop which will not draw tight. Make a halter 
 
 I 2 
 
n6 
 
 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 by taking a turn of the rope through the fixed 
 loop (see Fig. 19). Place the halter over the 
 horse's head, and the loop in his mouth. Make 
 a half hitch with the free part of the rope, pass 
 
 Fig. 21. Pratt's twitch on horse's head, and tightened at word "steady." 
 
 it over the horse's head and under his upper lip, 
 and draw moderately tight (see Figs. 20 and 21). 
 By making the fixed loop long, one can obtain 
 more power than with the halter-twitch. 
 
HEAD-STALL TWITCH. 
 
 117 
 
 If an ordinary head-stall or snafHe-bridle is on, 
 the twitch may be applied by knotting the end 
 of the rope to one of the D's on the cheek-pieces 
 of the former, or to one of the rings of the latter, 
 
 Fig. 22. Head-stall twitch on horse. 
 
 and passing the half hitch over the ears and 
 under the upper lip, as before described. 
 
 If there be much difficulty in applying the 
 
 rope-twitch, the horse may be tied head and 
 
nS ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 tail (see page 197), and it can then be put on 
 without trouble ; the animal being, of course, 
 released, immediately after this is done. 
 
 Head-stall twitch. Fig. 22 will explain this 
 ready and effective method of applying the 
 twitch. The rope is passed through the upper 
 ring of the cheek-piece of the head-stall, and is 
 tied on to the lower ring. The turn over the 
 ears and under the upper lip is, then, taken, with 
 the portion of rope which, after being drawn out, 
 is included between the two rings. 
 
 The bridle-twitch. This is a useful and ready 
 means for making the horse stand quiet after he 
 is bridled, and is applied by passing one of the 
 snaffle-reins under the upper lip, and drawing it 
 tight to the opposite side (see Figs. 23 and 24). 
 I was shewn this twitch by Mr. Esa, of the firm of 
 Shaikh Ibrahim & Co., Poona. 
 
 The strait-jacket. For English readers, I 
 
BRIDLE TWITCH. 
 
 119 
 
 venture to apply this term to the hippo lasso 
 
 Fig. 23. The bridle-twitch, front and near-side view. 
 
 of MM. Raabe and Lunel. It consists of a 
 
120 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 breachen and breast - band, supported by straps 
 
 Fig. 24. The bridle-twitch, off-side view. 
 
 passing over the back, and connected by traces, 
 
THE STRAIT-JACKET. 121 
 
 which proceed from the breachen, through D's, 
 with rollers on them, at the end of the breast- 
 band, back again through similar D's on the 
 breachen, and then forward ; to become finally 
 attached to buckles on the sides of the breast- 
 band (see Fig. 25). A strap and buckle, laid 
 along the top of the back, connects the two 
 back straps together. A felt guard may be used 
 with the supporting strap of the breast-band, so 
 as to prevent it hurting the back. The breachen 
 should be lined with felt. The back straps 
 should be made of strong stirrup leather. The 
 traces should be particularly strong, close to the 
 breachen. The breachen and breast-band should 
 be provided, at their respective centres, with a 
 D, to which ropes may be attached, in order to 
 keep the animal steady, before and behind. 
 
 This gear may be applied in the following way : 
 
 If the horse is quiet, the breast-band and 
 
 breachen may be put on separately, with the 
 
 back straps supporting them, and may be con- 
 
122 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 nected together by the strap on the top of the 
 
THE STRAIT-JACKET. 125 
 
 back, and by the traces on each side. The 
 breast-band should rest high up against the fore- 
 arms, and the breachen behind, and a little 
 below the level of the stifles (see Fig. 26). 
 
 If the animal is dangerous to handle, only, 
 behind ; the breast-band may be put on, and the 
 breachen attached to it, in the manner just de- 
 scribed, but without putting it over the quarters. 
 A rope can now be fixed to the D in the centre 
 of the breachen, which, by the aid of the rope, 
 can be pulled over the croup into its proper 
 position, by an assistant from behind. Before 
 doing this, the traces should be let out, to be 
 pulled tight, the moment the breachen slips over 
 the tail. In this and other cases of difficulty, 
 ropes may be attached to the ends of the traces, 
 so that the assistants who hold them, need run 
 no risk of getting kicked. 
 
 When the horse strikes out, as well as kicks, 
 the different parts of the strait-jacket may be 
 connected together, with the exception of, say, 
 
126 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 the near trace, the end of which may be held 
 by an assistant, while another helper holds a rope 
 attached to the D which is on the near side 
 of the breast-band. The loop formed by the 
 breast-band and its back strap is, now, passed 
 over the horse's neck, the end of the near trace 
 passed through the near side D of the breast- 
 band, and the remaining fixings accomplished. 
 Or, if the animal be not very violent, the gear 
 may be connected together ; the loop made by 
 the breast-band and its back strap, passed over 
 the head and neck ; and the breachen pulled over 
 the croup by a rope. 
 
 If the precaution of putting on the rope-twitch 
 be taken, no difficulty need be experienced in 
 subsequently applying the strait-jacket. 
 
 Lifting up a hind-leg. The two methods to 
 which I need direct my readers' attention, for 
 performing this operation, are as follows : 
 
 i. If the operator has two assistants one to 
 
K 
 
1 3 o ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 Fig. 28. First step in picking up a hind-leg without the assistance of a 
 
 helper. 
 
PICKING UP A HIND-LEG. 131 
 
 hold the horse, the other to hold up, say, the 
 near fore-leg he may get alongside the animal's 
 near hind ; catch the tendo A chillis (the hamstring) 
 with the left hand, and the pastern, backhanded, 
 with the right hand ; give a signal to the assist- 
 ant to let go the near fore ; then lift the leg, 
 and place it resting on his left thigh (see Fig. 27). 
 If he has no one to hold up the near fore, he 
 may "pick it up " in the way previously described ; 
 grasp the hoof with the right hand, while facing 
 to the horse's rear (see Fig. 28) ; take a step 
 forward with the left foot ; catch the hamstring 
 with the left hand (see Fig. 29) ; let go the near 
 fore, and, at the same moment, seize the pastern, 
 backhanded, with the right hand ; and place, as 
 before, the animal's leg on the left thigh. This 
 method, which, I believe, I have been the first 
 to devise, ensures almost complete immunity from 
 danger. As long as one has hold of the fore-hoof 
 with the hand, one can get forward, out of danger, 
 
 if the horse tries to kick. The grasp of the left 
 
 K 2 
 
1 3 2 ILL USTRA TED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 hand deprives the hind-leg of the greater part of 
 its action, and the hind pastern is caught so 
 quickly after, even if not before, the near fore 
 reaches the ground, that the animal has not time 
 to make a deliberately offensive movement. By 
 catching the pastern in the way described, we 
 aid in preventing the animal from cow-kicking, to 
 do which, he must bend his hock ; for the muscle 
 which flexes the foot extends the hock. Were 
 we to catch the canon bone, instead of the 
 pastern, we should, besides losing this advantage, 
 have less ability to act on the lever formed by 
 the bones below the hock, by reason of our 
 shifting the point of application of the " power," 
 closer to the fulcrum (the head of the tibia). The 
 irritation caused by the grasp of the hand on the 
 hamstring which is composed of two tendons- 
 stimulates their muscles to contract, and, thus, to 
 keep the hock extended. In this operation, we 
 should follow the principles, already laid down, 
 of removing the cause of any pain or irritation, 
 
TAKING UP A HIND LEG. 135 
 
 inflicted by us on the horse, the moment he 
 yields to our wishes. I need hardly say, that if 
 the horse overpowers the grip of our hands on 
 his hind-leg, and kicks out behind, he can do us 
 no harm, for we are then in front of his hind-leg. 
 If the animal will not submit, we should apply 
 the rope-twitch (see page 113); and, by its aid, and 
 a little " gentling," proceed as before described. 
 
 2. In order to " gentle" the hind limb, or 
 to take it up and let it down at will, while 
 maintaining complete control over it, we may 
 proceed as follows : Put on, say, the near hind 
 pastern, a hobble with a D attached to it. 
 Take a strong cord about 20 ft. long, and tie 
 with it a " double sheet bend " (see Fig. 30) 
 to the end of the tail, in the middle of the cord. 
 Pass one end through the D to the near side, 
 the other end through it to the off side, and give 
 the respective ends to an assistant on each side to 
 hold (see Fig. 31). These men should stand at 
 right angles to the horse, and can lift the leg by 
 
136 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 pulling equally on their respective cords. In this 
 
 Fig. 30. Shewing how to fasten a rope to the end of horse's tail with a 
 "double sheet bend." 
 
 manner, the leg will be brought straight up under 
 
LIFTING UP A HIND- LEG. 
 
 the body, so as not to throw the animal off his 
 balance. The fact of thus keeping the joints of 
 the leg- flexed will obviate any chance of his 
 
 Fig. 32. Leg pulled back with one rope, a method which should be avoided ; 
 as it throws the horse off his balance. 
 
 straining himself while struggling, which he might 
 do by the old method of using only one cord, 
 
140 
 
 ILL USTRA TED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 which will necessitate the leg being pulled back, 
 
 Fig. 33. Mode of fastening a rope to a short tail. 
 
 and will, consequently, disturb the animal's equili- 
 
FASTENING A ROPE TO THE TAIL. 141 
 
 34 
 
IMPROVING A HOBBLE. 143 
 
 brium (see Fig. 32). By the other and better 
 method, which was taught me by Colonel W. 
 Gatacre, the foot may be lifted up, and put down 
 again, without causing the animal any inconvenience. 
 It is a most valuable means for "gentling " the hind 
 limb ; for its action is irresistible, and, at the same 
 time, causes no irritation. If the horse's tail is 
 too short to make a knot in its hair, we may 
 pass a loop made in the middle of a doubled 
 cord over the dock, and further secure it by a 
 half hitch (Figs. 33 and 34). 
 
 I have devised the following method for im- 
 provising a hobble for lifting up a hind-leg, which, 
 I think, will be found useful. Place a stirrup 
 iron, foot part pointing to the rear, at the back 
 of the hind pastern ; take a few turns, with the 
 stirrup-leather, round the pastern and iron, and 
 buckle up (Fig. 35). 
 
 Gagging a Horse. This is useful for preventing 
 the animal using his teeth aggressively, and, also, 
 
144 
 
 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 Fig. 35. Improvised hobble made with a stirrup iron. 
 
 for breaking him of this objectionable habit. The 
 
WOODEN GAG. 
 
 145 
 
 one I use is made out of a block of hard wood, 
 5 inches long and 2 inches square, which is made 
 octagonal by planing off the corners. Lately, I 
 have had this gag made with a semicircular 
 groove, about a third of an inch broad, running 
 
 Fig. 36. Wooden gag. 
 
 down the centre of each face of the octagonal, in 
 order to make it more "punishing." A hole is 
 bored, down the centre, for a chain which is 
 attached to the head-stall. I use leather guards 
 on each side to prevent the animal from getting 
 
146 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 the gag out of his mouth (see Fig. 36). This is 
 a modification of Rarey's wooden mouthing bit, 
 which was a round block of wood. 
 
 General Peat suggested to me the advisability 
 of having the gag made with sharp edges, and 
 not round ; so as to teach the horse, by the pain 
 inflicted on his gums, not to bite. 
 
( 147 ) 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 RENDERING HORSES DOCILE. 
 
 The crupper leading rein Gentling the horse Throwing the 
 horse with the strait-jacket Making the horse lie down 
 by means of the cord Keeping the horse in a constrained 
 position on the ground. 
 
 IN this chapter, we need consider only quick 
 methods of removing a horse's nervousness, and 
 proving to him that he need have no fear of us, 
 or of his other surroundings ; for the ordinary 
 'ways of accustoming him to the presence of man, 
 are too self-evident to need any special mention 
 here. The breaker, however, should remember 
 that, by adopting a system of " gentling," which 
 requires several days, if not weeks, for its com- 
 pletion, he runs the risk of allowing the horse to 
 
 L 2 
 
148 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 find out his own power of resistance a species 
 of knowledge which our rapid style of breaking 
 never permits him to acquire. If the animal 
 sulks, or exhibits deliberate impatience of control, 
 he should be conquered, then and there, as I have 
 mentioned on page 1 1 . 
 
 The crupper leading-rein. Whichever style of 
 breaking be adopted, the first step that I would 
 advise, is to accustom the horse to the " crupper 
 leading-rein," which can be readily made by 
 taking a long rope, doubling it, making a loop in 
 the middle by knotting it, and passing the loop 
 under the horse's tail, and the ends of the rope 
 through the halter, or rings of the snaffle (see 
 Fig. 37)- By- using this leading-rein in preference 
 to one attached to the head-stall or halter, the 
 animal will never attempt to " hang on " the 
 leading-rein, as he will often do with the other, 
 and, when led, instead of "going on his fore-hand," 
 will move, as he ought to do, " collectedly/' on 
 
GENTLING THE HORSE. 151 
 
 account of the pressure of the rope making him 
 " bring his hind-quarters well under him." I do not 
 know who invented this form of crupper, which 
 was known to Fanchion, Magner, Pratt, Rockwell, 
 and all the other American " horse-tamers." 
 
 Gentling the Horse. Having put on this crupper 
 leading-rein, the horse may be gentled all over 
 with a long pole. We may, then, lift up his fore 
 and hind legs, successively, and handle him all 
 over. Every display of confidence on his part 
 should be rewarded by encouraging words, patting, 
 and, if procurable, a piece of carrot, or, if he will 
 eat it, a bit of bread, or lump of sugar. If we 
 have got a strait-jacket at hand, we may use 
 it with advantage, in the event of his proving 
 very nervous. If the horse shews fight, we may 
 employ the gag and rope-twitch, invariably using, 
 with the latter, the word " steady," and dis- 
 continuing the application of the rope as soon as 
 the animal obeys the word. 
 
152 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 Throwing the Horse with the strait-jacket. 
 If we want to produce a stronger, or different 
 effect, we may make the horse lie down by 
 means of the strait-jacket. To do this, one 
 assistant should stand at his head, another should 
 hold a rope attached to his tail, so that he may 
 not throw himself forward on to his mouth ; while 
 an assistant at each of the traces should pull them 
 tight, and thus bring him down. As soon as he 
 is on the ground, he should be gentled and handled, 
 all over, for a few minutes. The process may be 
 repeated, or lengthened, as may be required. If, 
 say, the off-trace be tightened up and buckled, 
 the aid of the assistant, who would otherwise have 
 held this trace, may be dispensed with. This 
 method of throwing the horse is the gentlest in 
 its action of any I have ever seen. If the 
 appliances and help be at hand, and the breaker 
 be not pressed for time, I would recommend that 
 this method of throwing should be always used, 
 as a preliminary to that of making a horse lie 
 
LYING DOWN. 153 
 
 down by pulling his head round, which I shall 
 presently describe ; so as to take some of the 
 " fight" out of him, and to prevent him, as much 
 as possible, from "knocking himself about." 
 
 Making the Horse lie down by means of the cord. 
 If the horse refuses to give in, we may make him 
 lie down in the following manner, which Professor 
 Sample informs me was invented by the American 
 " horse- tamer," Hamilton. It is a modified and 
 greatly improved form of Rarey's method. Place 
 on the horse, a surcingle which has three rings 
 on its pad, and attach a crupper to the rearmost 
 ring. Tie a rope to the tail for an assistant to 
 hold ; so as to be able to pull the horse over, 
 on the proper side, if he appears likely to fall 
 the wrong way. Put on the horse's head, a 
 leather head-stall, having a circular D on one 
 side, or attach an iron ring to the D, so that 
 the cord which has to be employed, may run 
 smoothly through it. Fix a strong cord to the 
 
154 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 middle ring on the pad ; pass it through the 
 ring on the side of the head-stall, and back 
 through the front ring on the pad. Put knee- 
 caps on, and suspend to the surcingle the fore- 
 leg of the side, away from which the head will 
 be turned (see Fig. 38). The buckle of the leg- 
 strap should be put on the inside, so that when 
 the horse lies on his off side, there may be no 
 difficulty in undoing the strap, in order to let him 
 up. Then, all being ready, take the end of the 
 cord, draw the head round, say, to the near side, 
 bring the cord across the base of the neck, and 
 pull on it from the off side, until the animal 
 yields, and rolls over on to that side. When 
 the horse goes down, comparatively, easily, the 
 free part of the cord may be drawn over his back, 
 as in Fig. 38, and not under his neck. No 
 attempt should be made to throw him forcibly 
 down ; for the effect we should aim at is that 
 produced by his "giving in " to power which he 
 finds irresistible. Hence, the more he fights, and 
 
LYING DOWN. 157 
 
 pits the strength of his muscles against the action 
 of our mechanical appliances, the better will be 
 the result. If the horse appears likely to fall on 
 his near side, the assistant who holds the rope 
 should pull him over on to his off side ; for, if he 
 fell on the near side, he would be in the awkward 
 position of having his neck doubled under him. 
 The horse may now be kept, say ten minutes, on 
 the ground, with his head pulled round to his side 
 (see Fig. 38), and " gentled." When " gentling " 
 the horse on the ground, the breaker should 
 remain at his back, so as to keep out of reach 
 of his heels. 
 
 Having carefully attached a rope-noose to the 
 off hind pastern, the breaker may pull that hind 
 limb toward himself, and gentle it. 
 
 I need hardly say that it is quite immaterial to 
 which side the horse's head is drawn, provided 
 that, in either case, the opposite leg be tied up. 
 
 Keeping a horse in a constrained position on the 
 
158 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 ground. If the animal goes down without a struggle, 
 and sulks on the ground, he should be forced to 
 "shew fight " by keeping him in the constrained 
 position depicted in Fig. 39, until he has got rid of 
 the most of his "temper" by ineffectual struggling. 
 When a horse begins to groan, and to considerably 
 moderate the violence of his struggles, we may feel 
 confident that "the sulk" has been taken out of 
 him, more or less, and that he is fit to be allowed 
 to get on to his feet again. If an error happens to 
 be made with respect to the amount of the effect 
 produced, it should be on the side of leniency, 
 rather than on that of severity ; for the operation 
 can be always repeated, and more time given on 
 the next occasion, without running any risk of 
 unduly cowing the animal. Whatever punishment 
 we employ, should never be pushed beyond the 
 point necessary to gain our required object, 
 which, in this case, is the attainment of authority 
 over the horse. 
 
 My own practice is, with animals that are 
 
KEEPING THE HORSE DOWN. 161 
 
 simply impatient of control, to produce the 
 desired effect by making them lie down several 
 times ; and, with stubborn ones, by keeping them 
 down, with their heads pulled round. The latter 
 method might alone be employed, if the ground 
 be hard or slippery, or if the horse's fore-legs be 
 liable to become sprained. In such cases, both 
 the strait-jacket and throwing gear might be put 
 on the horse, who might be made to lie down 
 with the former, and have his head pulled round 
 by the latter ; after doing which, the strait- 
 jacket could be taken off, so as to give the 
 animal entire liberty to kick as much as he 
 pleased. We might use a body-piece on the 
 horse to save the point of his hip that is on the 
 ground, from getting rubbed. 
 
 I cannot impress my readers too much with the 
 value, for overcoming stubbornness, of the fore- 
 going method, which, I believe, I have been the 
 first to use. 
 
 This throwing gear is exactly similar in its 
 
 M 
 
162 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 action to that described in Pratt's book, although 
 differing from it in its construction. Pratt used to 
 employ a rope which was looped round the neck 
 and passed through the mouth, for pulling round 
 the head. He also had a single rope to form 
 both surcingle and crupper. The chief objection 
 to Pratt's method, as far as I can see, was, that 
 the ropes passing through the mouth and under 
 the tail were apt to hurt those parts. 
 
 The employment of the tail-rope is an im- 
 provement which I have devised, and. which I have 
 found most useful. As the surcingle has to be 
 girthed up tight, I like to use a felt saddle-cloth, 
 or numdah, under it, to prevent it slipping for- 
 ward ; in which case, it might squeeze the withers, 
 or the crupper might rub the root of the tail. 
 
 In order to make a horse " give in " to the 
 required degree, after he submits to lie down 
 readily with one leg tied up, I like to continue 
 the process with both fore-legs free, until he goes 
 down without any trouble. 
 
HOLDING THE HORSE DOWN. 165 
 
 The process of obtaining control over the 
 horse, as a rule, had best be completed in one 
 lesson, which can be repeated as may be required. 
 
 We may utilise the knowledge that a horse 
 cannot get up off the ground, when his head is 
 pulled round, for keeping him down for instance, 
 when he has fallen in harness by holding his 
 head in an upward and backward direction, while 
 keeping his neck bent by aid of the pressure of 
 the knee (see Fig. 40). 
 
1 66 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 GIVING HORSES GOOD MOUTHS. 
 
 Mouthing gear Bridling and saddling a horse for the first time- 
 Mouthing on foot. 
 
 Mouthing gear. The gear I use for giving a 
 horse a good mouth in other words, for teaching 
 him to obey the indications of the rein and leg- 
 consists of a bridle with a heavy, smooth snaffle, 
 which has leather guards on each side ; a standing 
 martingale ; long reins ; a driving pad, or cross- 
 trees which prevent the reins going over the 
 horse's back, and which is kept in place by a 
 crupper and rein-bearers hanging down on each 
 side of the quarters (see Figs. 41 and 42). 
 
 The standing martingale is attached to the 
 
o 
 
 ffi 
 
BRIDLING AND SADDLING. 171 
 
 rings of the snaffle and to the girth of the 
 driving pad, and is lengthened out, as much as is 
 compatible with its preventing the animal from 
 getting the snaffle off the bars of his lower jaw, 
 and on to the corners of his mouth (see page 70 
 and Fig. 3). The reins are 22 ft. long, are 
 made of i^ inch ''circular" webbing; they pass 
 through the rein-bearers, and buckle on to the 
 rings of the snaffle. The reins are separate from 
 each other ; so that, if the horse tries to bolt 
 away when being driven on foot, he can always 
 be pulled round and held fast, by letting go one 
 rein and holding the other tight. The rein-bearers 
 are made about 3 ft. 6 in. long on each side for 
 a horse about 15*2 high, and can be taken up or 
 let out as may be necessary. 
 
 Bridling and saddling a Horse for the first 
 time. These operations may be accomplished 
 with great ease, by means of the rope-twitch (see 
 page 113), and, if necessary, by tying up one fore- 
 
172 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 leg ; especially, if the animal has been rendered 
 quiet in the manner described in Chapter III. 
 
 Mouthing on foot. After making the horse 
 sufficiently steady to pay attention to the instruction 
 about to be given if this has not already been 
 done the breaker, while remaining on foot, should 
 take the reins in his hands, and, by gently " feeling 
 the mouth," "clucking" to him, and, at times, 
 cracking the whip, should get him to circle round 
 him, to the left, for instance. If the animal 
 resents the outward rein touching his quarters, the 
 driver should, at first, work with this rein on the 
 driving pad or cross-trees, as in Fig. 41, and then, 
 as the horse gradually learns to bear the pressure 
 without flinching, he should bring it down, as in Fig. 
 44. By the aid of the rope-twitch (see page 1 1 3), 
 to be used by an assistant as may be necessary, it is 
 very easy to overcome any resentment the horse 
 may evince to the rein coming against his hind- 
 legs. We need not, except, perhaps, in very rare 
 
MOUTHING ON FOOT, 173 
 
 cases, employ this form of punishment here ; for 
 the horse, on finding that the rein does not hurt 
 him, will quickly cease from manifesting irritation 
 at its presence. The employment of pressure 
 with the outward rein will teach the horse the 
 use of support from the rider's outward leg. 
 
 When we have got the animal to circle quietly 
 to the left for a few times, we should turn him 
 to the right with the right rein, acting on his 
 mouth and quarters, so as to teach him, on feeling 
 the indication of the rein on his mouth and side, 
 to turn his quarters, as well as his head and neck 
 (see page 56). He should now be circled to the 
 right on the same principle. After he has learned 
 to do his circles readily and collectedly, with the 
 reins hanging down, he should be made to perform 
 them with the outward rein on the driving pad ; so 
 as to accustom him to the feel of the rein in the 
 position it would occupy, when he is "being ridden, 
 or driven in harness. If he refuses to turn 
 when the rein is on the pad, a cut or two with 
 
174 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 the whip will soon teach him to come round 
 quickly. When he is perfect in circling and 
 turning at the trot, we should teach him to rein 
 back, taking care to ease the reins and allow him 
 to " collect " himself, after each step he takes to 
 the rear. When turning, stopping, restraining, or 
 reining back the horse, our pull on the reins to 
 use Mr. John Hubert Moore's expression should 
 resemble that which we would employ in drawing 
 a cork out of a bottle, it being free from any 
 snatch or jerk. While circling the horse, the 
 breaker should stand to the side and a little 
 to the rear of the animal (see Fig. 43). This 
 mouthing on foot should, I think, be confined 
 almost entirely to circling, with, of course, frequent 
 changes, and occasional reining back, and should 
 be continued until the required softness of mouth 
 and suppleness of neck are attained. If the 
 animal be found to be "harder" on one side of 
 the mouth, than on the other, he should be 
 worked more on the former, than on the latter; 
 
THE LONG REINS. 177 
 
 until he goes equally well on both. The reader 
 need only see this method of driving on foot 
 practically demonstrated, to recognise its immense 
 utility, and to acknowledge the fact that it 
 entirely does away with any necessity for the 
 objectionable process of lunging (see page 64).' 
 
 American horse-tamers use the long reins, 
 without the standing martingale or driving pad, 
 and pass them through rings on a specially 
 prepared surcingle, through the shaft tugs of 
 ordinary single harness, or through the irons of 
 stirrup leathers. Men who try to mouth horses in 
 this manner, are apt to fail to teach their pupils to 
 bend their necks to the rein, and, at the same 
 time, to go up to the bridle ; for the animal thus 
 instructed, will always be liable to resist the action 
 of the mouth-piece by chucking up his head and 
 getting the mouth-piece off the bars, and on to 
 the corners of the mouth. In breaking for 
 harness, and, especially, for fast trotting on level 
 ground, the necessity for teaching the horse to 
 
 N 
 
178 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 bend his neck, to get his hind-quarters under 
 him, and to moderate his speed in response to 
 a pull on the reins, is not nearly so imperative, 
 as in educating the charger, hunter and steeple- 
 chaser, who must have always a " spare leg," 
 ready for any emergency. 
 
 The principle of the specially constructed 
 driving pad and cross-trees, is an idea of my 
 own, which I have found of great use. By- 
 its employment, we have no need of the 
 bearing reins, which some of the old Irish 
 breakers were accustomed to use ; for, if the 
 horse holds his head too low down, it can 
 be easily got up into its proper position when 
 circling the animal, by " playing" with the 
 outward rein, which, in this case, should rest 
 on the driving pad. I cannot approve of 
 rendering the neck rigid by the combined em- 
 ployment of martingale and bearing reins. With 
 respect to the objections to the use of the last- 
 mentioned appliance, see page 55. With skittish 
 
DRIVING ON FOOT. 179 
 
 animals that jump about much when being 
 mouthed, and with horses that rear, the standing 
 martingale is of great service in preventing the 
 rein getting over the back, and in giving the 
 breaker command over these refractory subjects. 
 Besides this, I find that the presence of the 
 driving pad and rein-bearers is of great use in 
 allowing me to shift the rein up and down as 
 I like. 
 
 The breaker should avoid driving the horse on 
 foot, straight in front of him, more than he can 
 help ; for, if he does so, he can hardly escape, at 
 times, from keeping a " dead pull " on the animal's 
 mouth. The objectionable practice of driving 
 " youngsters " on foot for miles along a road, as 
 may be seen in full operation at Newmarket and 
 other training resorts, is the fruitful cause of the 
 dead mouths and habit of boring possessed by 
 many race-horses. The young animal, to relieve 
 the bars of his mouth of the constant pressure 
 of the mouth-piece, naturally, gets his chin into 
 
 N 2 
 
i8o ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 his chest, in order to transfer a portion of the 
 pull on to the crown of his head. Instead 
 of acting in this fashion, the breaker, if he 
 wants to take his pupil for a walk on foot, 
 might, after having mouthed him in the manner I 
 have described, put on the leading-rein crupper 
 (see page 148), and lead him where he wished, 
 without incurring any risk of spoiling his mouth. 
 
 The whole of this mouthing on foot, might be 
 taught the horse in one lesson of, say, an hour's 
 duration. With a young animal that had never 
 been bridled before, the instruction might be 
 spread over two days, a couple of lessons of half- 
 an-hour's duration each, being given on each 
 day. In point of fact, one or two lessons will, 
 in almost all cases, be sufficient to teach the 
 horse to obey the indications of the rein pro- 
 perly. After that, he will require only a few 
 days' careful riding and bending to make his 
 mouth perfect. 
 
 If the animal prove headstrong or sulky, he 
 
DRIVING ON FOOT. 181 
 
 should be brought under control, in the manner 
 described in the preceding chapter. 
 
 The method of mouthing which I have de- 
 scribed, is as applicable to " spoiled " horses, as it 
 is to animals that have never been handled. To 
 my thinking, one great beauty in it apart from 
 its immense advantage of never giving the animal 
 the chance of getting the upper hand, which he 
 might easily do, were the rider in the saddle is, 
 that the breaker who employs it, can tell at any 
 moment how his pupil is progressing, by his 
 touch on the reins, and can, accordingly, with 
 well-grounded confidence, use his own judgment 
 in regulating the amount of instruction-. The 
 man, however, who trusts to tying the horse up 
 with side- or pillar-reins to the breaking snaffle, in 
 order to get his mouth soft, must necessarily work, 
 more or less, in the dark, and by rule of thumb. 
 Instead of tying a horse up in a fixed position, 
 and thereby cramping the action of his muscles, 
 we retain them supple and ready to respond to our 
 
1 82 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 slightest touch, by keeping them in a constant 
 state of change, from contraction to relaxation, 
 without, however, inducing fatigue, the effect of 
 which, on the nerves, is to cause the muscles to 
 work in a slow and ill-regulated manner. 
 
 After having broken the horse thoroughly to 
 the snaffle, we may, if required for special work, 
 break him, in the same manner, to the curb, the 
 principles of which I have described in my book 
 on Riding on the Flat and Across Country. 
 
 When one is unprovided with a driving pad 
 made after my pattern, one may use, as a 
 makeshift, a saddle, through the stirrup-irons of 
 which one may pass the reins (see Fig. 44) ; not 
 forgetting the standing martingale, a substitute 
 for which may be readily made by connecting 
 the rings of the snaffle to the rings of a running 
 martingale, by a loop of leather, or cord. 
 
 Colonel Wardrop, who commands the i2th 
 Lancers, shewed me a method he practises, of driv- 
 ing horses over jumps with long ropes which pass 
 
ttt 
 
 
 
MOUTHING FOR JUMPING. 187 
 
 through the stirrup-irons and rings of the snaffle, 
 and are fixed on tightly to the girths and stirrup- 
 irons, on their respective sides (see Fig. 45). 
 This excellent authority on the art of training 
 horses to safely negotiate the difficult lines of 
 country met with in Ireland, tells me that he has 
 found this method of great use for teaching 
 horses to " gather themselves together" in proper 
 style, when coming up to the big banks and 
 ditches that may be seen to perfection in the 
 counties of Kildare and Tipperary. For reasons 
 which I have fully explained in this book, I would 
 advise that the horse should, at first, be thoroughly 
 taught to obey the indications of the rein in the 
 manner I have described. After that, Colonel 
 Wardrop's plan might be useful for giving the 
 horse a few practical lessons over the obstacles 
 in question. 
 
1 88 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 TEACHING HORSES TO JUMP. 
 
 BEFORE this instruction is commenced, the horse 
 ought to be got under control, and thoroughly 
 well mouthed. We may begin to teach him to 
 jump in an enclosure, similar to that described on 
 page 77 : first of all, making him circle and turn 
 with the long reins on foot, at a smart trot. A 
 rounded log of wood, not less than 15 feet in 
 length, and 10 inches or more in diameter, may 
 then be placed across the horse's track, which 
 should have been made soft. If the animal shews 
 a little reluctance to face the obstacle, we may 
 < 'work" him up to it with the reins, keeping 
 him straight by the pressure of the outward rein 
 
TEACHING TO JUMP. 189 
 
 against his quarter, as he turns from one side to 
 the other, and stimulating him with the voice 
 and sound of the whip. If he persists in refusing, 
 we should put on the crupper leading-rein (see 
 page 148), and after running him about, and pulling 
 him from side to side by it, a few times, in order 
 to make him understand its use, we should try 
 to lead him over in this manner. Or, having 
 given it to an assistant to go on in front, we 
 may give him another trial with the long reins. 
 In this, as in all other breaking operations with 
 the horse, we should exercise great patience, and 
 should renew our efforts again and again if we 
 do not at first succeed. If the animal " shews 
 fight," I would advise that the whip should be 
 put aside altogether ; for the 'moment, according 
 to my experience, its cut, or even crack, fails to 
 prompt him to go on, it will incite him to offer 
 increased resistance. Instead of its effect, we 
 should employ that of the long reins, in circling 
 him, turning him sharply and backing him, until he 
 
190 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 gives in, or until we are forced to employ stronger 
 means. Mr. John Hubert Moore, who taught me 
 this admirable method for curing this and other 
 forms of jibbing, considers that its great efficacy 
 is due to the punishment inflicted on the animal's 
 mouth and hocks. Professor Sample, however, holds 
 that it is owing to the fact of the animal imagining 
 that he has no power to resist the command to go 
 forward, after having been forced to turn as the 
 breaker wished. I may observe that it is not 
 the act of turning a jibber to the right and to 
 the left which will overcome his sulkiness, but 
 its continued repetition ; and that the sharper this 
 is done the better will be the effect. Hence, I 
 am inclined to think that the punishment theory 
 is the right one. The horse seems, as with the 
 rope-twitch (see page in), to fail to connect the 
 idea of pain, in this case, with the man who 
 inflicts it, as he undoubtedly does, when whipped, 
 or spurred ; and, probably, on that account, yields 
 the more readily to its influence. 
 
TEACHING TO JUMP. 191 
 
 If the animal prove thoroughly stubborn, and 
 time be of consequence, he should be made to 
 lie down, and held with his head turned round 
 (see page 158), until he appears to "give in." 
 The driving gear should be again put on, and 
 another trial given. This process may have to be 
 repeated. Such strong measures will hardly ever 
 be necessary, if we commence with the fence low 
 enough. 
 
 When putting the animal through the course 
 of the discipline which I have described, for over- 
 coming stubbornness by the use of the long reins, 
 I have found that the good effect has been greatly 
 increased, by utilising the action of the outward 
 rein on the pad. 
 
 The log may be gradually raised to a height 
 of three feet, which will be sufficient for the first 
 lesson, and the horse made to jump freely, when 
 circling to the right, as well as to the left. A 
 second fence may be made on the other side of 
 the enclosure, opposite to the first one. When 
 
192 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 the horse has learned to jump with the outward 
 rein low down, he should be taught to do so 
 with it resting on the pad ; as it will then be, 
 more or less, in the position it will occupy, when 
 held by the rider. 
 
 By teaching a horse in an enclosure, he will 
 be free from outside disturbing influences, and, 
 having become accustomed to go round the track, 
 will the more readily jump any obstacle placed 
 across it. 
 
 By this method, horses may quickly learn to 
 jump, and not alone to clear the obstacle, but 
 also to negotiate it in the exact style they are 
 required to do, when a man is on their back. 
 The more horses are practised in this manner, 
 the more they appear to like jumping, and very 
 rarely exhibit, as they will do with a rider, any 
 dislike to the work, from numerous repetitions, 
 backwards and forwards, over the same fence. 
 
 The old plan of teaching a horse to jump by 
 leading him over fences with a cavesson and one 
 
THE CRUPPER LEADING-REIN. 193 
 
 or two leading-reins, is an abomination that no 
 horseman should perpetrate ; for its tendency is 
 to make the animal jump in the very way he 
 ought not to do, namely, with the weight on the 
 fore-hand, and not on the hind-quarters. Besides 
 this, horses are very apt to resist any forward 
 pull on either cavesson or head-stall. The action 
 of the crupper leading-rein, on the contrary, 
 while leaving the head entirely free, is to make 
 the horse get his hind-legs well under him, as 
 we may see by the way he throws up his hind- 
 quarters, when being led by it over a fence. We 
 all have, of course, heard the well-founded ob- 
 jection to the use of the cavesson and leading- 
 rein for teaching horses to jump, that it makes 
 them slow to "get away" on landing over a fence ; 
 a fault, no doubt, caused by the habit of having 
 the weight on the fore-hand. If we want a horse 
 to jump "big" and " get away" quick, we must 
 " catch a good hold of his head ; " the very opposite 
 of which is done by the cavesson method. 
 
 o 
 
194 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 The system of turning horses loose into a 
 small circular course, fenced in and provided 
 with obstacles, and then making them jump with 
 a long whip, is good as far as it goes ; but 
 neither it, nor the lunging plan, has any preten- 
 sions to teaching obedience to the rein when 
 jumping, without which a safe and clever style is 
 unattainable. 
 
 By using a circular track, the horse can be 
 taught to jump at any pace, and the nature of 
 the fences, which should never be made weak 
 enough to " chance," varied as may be desired. 
 The breaker might have three circles, each 
 containing three jumps of different kinds ; for 
 instance, a post and rails, water jump, hurdle, 
 double bank, stone wall, hedge, open ditch, ditch 
 and bank, and bank and ditch. 
 
 Two or three lessons of this sort will be 
 sufficient to make the generality of horses clever 
 enough to carry a rider in good style. The 
 horse should then be saddled ; a man or boy put 
 
TEACHING TO JUMP. 195 
 
 up, without giving him, at first, any reins to hold ; 
 and the horse driven over the fences, as before. 
 When the breaker finds that the animal jumps as 
 well with the man up as he did without him, he 
 may take off the long reins, put on the ordinary 
 ones, and hand them to the rider, who should 
 then take the horse over the fences as before ; 
 the breaker using the crack of the whip, as a 
 stimulus, if required. The rider should not be 
 given spurs, unless he is a fine horseman, and 
 unless the horse requires them to make him more 
 lively ; but not as a means for overcoming any 
 reluctance he may have to jumping, which should 
 be accomplished in the manner I have laid down. 
 
 After the animal has learned all we can teach 
 him in our enclosures, he should be made over to 
 a good rider, to school him in the country, and, if 
 possible, with hounds. 
 
 I need hardly say, that a horse should not be 
 jumped, if he is at all sore on his legs or feet. 
 
 This plan of schooling horses over a circular 
 
 o 2 
 
196 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 line of fences, was, in my case, the natural outcome 
 of the practice I adopted during my various tours, 
 of breaking horses in a square enclosure of about 
 20 yards side. I have never seen or heard of it 
 done by any one else, except those I have taught ; 
 although it could hardly fail to suggest itself to a 
 person accustomed to drive horses on foot, in a 
 confined space, with the object of teaching them 
 to jump. 
 
 One great advantage, among many others, of 
 teaching a horse to jump in the way I have 
 detailed, is, that, by circling and turning the 
 animal in front of the fences, we can cure him of 
 all impetuosity caused by their proximity, and, at 
 the same time, make him willing to jump, with 
 thorough light-heartedness, the moment he receives 
 the indication from the rein to go straight, and 
 clear the obstacle. We can all understand, how 
 valuable such training is, for the hunter and 
 trooper. 
 
( 197 ) 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 MOUNTING HORSES FOR THE FIRST TIME. 
 
 HAVING rendered the horse quiet, given him a 
 good mouth, and taught him to jump, we may 
 next proceed to mount him in the following safe 
 and easy manner, which, I believe, I have been 
 the first to adopt. Put on a snafHe bridle, and 
 knot the reins on the animal's neck, so that they 
 will not hang down. Place over the bridle a 
 head-stall, to the off-side D of which, attach a 
 short leading-rein, and saddle the horse. Take a 
 strong cord ; tie a double sheet bend in the hair 
 of the tail with one end of it (see Fig. 30) ; pass 
 the other end through the D of the halter on the 
 near side ; pull the horse's head well round, and 
 secure the cord by a slip knot. If the animal 
 
i 5 8 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 resents his head being brought round, tie him 
 loosely at first, and let him go round and round, 
 stopping him, if necessary, by catching hold of 
 the leading-rein until he stands still. When he 
 does this, he may be tied a little tighter, and so 
 on. The requisite extent to which the head 
 should be turned round, will be attained when he 
 is tied up just short of what would cause him to 
 fall down, if he were allowed to go round on his 
 own account. The outer girth should be un- 
 loosed, passed over the cord, and buckled again, 
 so as to bring the cord close to the animal's 
 near side (see Fig. 46) ; or the surcingle may be 
 placed over it. Having taken the leading-rein in 
 the left hand, we should walk the horse round 
 and round several times, testing him as to his 
 amenability to discipline by stopping him by means 
 of the leading-rein, and then pulling him round 
 again. If he resists these actions on our part, 
 we may feel convinced that he is not under 
 proper control. In which case, we may continue 
 
BUCKJUMPERS. 203 
 
 to make him revolve, or may force him to lie 
 down, and hold him with his head turned round, 
 as described on page 158, until he gives in. 
 
 As many horses, especially Australian buck- 
 jumpers, are very shy of being touched with the 
 heels, or even gripped closely with the knees, it 
 is well to try if the animal we have in hand is 
 affected with this form of timidity. For this 
 object, we may gently prod the horse with the 
 rounded end of a pole, in the ribs, while an 
 assistant takes him round with the leading-rein, 
 until he ceases to mind the touch of the pole. A 
 few applications of the rope-twitch (see page 113), 
 will also have a good effect in rendering him 
 quiet in this respect. We may now get an 
 assistant to catch hold of the mane, on the near 
 side, with his left hand, the stirrup-iron with his 
 right hand, and go through the various stages of 
 mounting, beginning with putting his left foot in the 
 stirrup (see Fig. 47), catching the pommel or cantle 
 of the saddle, as he sees fit, with the right hand, and 
 
204 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 hopping round on the right foot, while we keep 
 the horse revolving by means of the leading-rein. 
 I may add that the Australian rough-riders, who 
 are marvellously expert at getting on to a difficult 
 horse, place the right hand on the pommel of the 
 saddle, and not on the cantle, as is the practice 
 in other places, and consequently place the left 
 hand high up on the mane. As a matter of 
 course, the assistant should not finally throw his leg 
 over, until the animal ceases to resist. When the 
 horse has got accustomed to the presence of the 
 man in the saddle, the rider may touch him with 
 his heels, lightly at first, and gradually stronger, 
 without hurting him, until he stands the contact 
 unmoved. When the horse has stopped trying to 
 get free, we may slacken off the cord a little, 
 take him round and round again, and so on, until 
 it is safe to let him loose altogether. Before 
 doing this, we should, as before, test his quietness, 
 by stopping him with the leading-rein, and then 
 pulling him round again. When most of the 
 
MOUNTING. 205 
 
 tension has been taken off the cord, we may 
 give the leading-rein to the rider, to hold in 
 his right hand, so that he can stop the horse 
 if necessary ; while we make the animal go 
 round by touching him lightly with the whip. 
 After the cord has been removed, the rider may 
 take the reins, and keep the animal, at first, going 
 round in small circles, and, then, gradually en- 
 larging them, until he can take the horse in any 
 direction he likes. 
 
 In all my experience with numbers of horses that 
 had, for years, successfully resisted the most deter- 
 mined efforts to mount them, I have never failed 
 to accomplish this object in one lesson, by means 
 of the method just described ; nor has any horse, 
 after I have removed the cord, shewed the 
 slightest return to unruliness. The method of 
 making the horse, by the use of the rope-twitch 
 (see page 113), steady to mount, which I shall 
 describe in Chapter IX., is specially valuable for 
 this particular purpose ; while the head and tail 
 
206 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 plan, by producing a powerful moral effect, 
 renders the animal not alone easy to mount, but 
 also quiet to ride. As I have pointed out on 
 page 31, we should, in all cases, confirm the 
 habit of obedience by repetition. I may mention 
 that the method of tying a horse " head and 
 tail," with the object of making him quiet, has 
 been in use for many years ; though I am unable 
 to say who was its inventor. If practised without 
 my improvements of leading-rein and surcingle, 
 or girth, over the cord, it has the serious faults, 
 that as soon as the horse begins to revolve 
 quickly, the operator has, practically, no further 
 control over him until he stops of his own accord, 
 or tumbles down "all of a heap," and that it. is 
 impossible to mount him safely. The man, if 
 expert, and if the horse has no tendency to hit 
 out with his off-fore, might run in and catch him 
 by the head-stall, if he thought that the animal 
 was in danger of falling, on account of going 
 round too fast. The conduct of such confidential 
 
MOUNTING. 207 
 
 horses, I need hardly say, is not the standard by 
 which we should gauge the safety of any method of 
 breaking, which, in order to be generally useful, 
 should not demand from the person who practises 
 it, the possession of exceptional activity, or fool- 
 hardiness. When the off-side leading-rein is on, 
 the breaker can, with perfect safety, catch it while 
 the horse is turning round ; for, at that time, it 
 swings entirely clear of the fore-limb, and in a 
 convenient position for the breaker to lay hold of 
 it. If a man mounts a horse tied head and tail, 
 with the cord unconfined by girth or surcingle, 
 he is placed in the uncomfortable dilemma of 
 riding without any "grip" on the saddle, by 
 having his left leg pulled upwards and outwards 
 by the cord, or of having this limb imprisoned 
 between the cord and the animal's side ; while, in 
 either case, the man is in a most dangerous 
 position, on an animal that is revolving round 
 and round, with little or no control over its own 
 movements. We may see, therefore, that the 
 simple head and tail method, without the improve- 
 
208 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 ments I have described, is not applicable for 
 mounting purposes. 
 
 The plan of gaining command over a horse by 
 tying him head and tail, and allowing or forcing 
 him to revolve round until he falls down, is un- 
 worthy the consideration of educated men. It is 
 based on the wrong assumption that all ailments 
 of temper spring from the same cause ; the 
 supposed remedy is not under the control of the 
 operator ; the effect is physical, rather than 
 moral, and consequently is not lasting ; and the 
 results of the violent twisting of the hocks, and 
 of the fall, if the animal comes down on the side 
 to which his head is turned, as he often does, are 
 apt to injure him. 
 
 Professor Sample gives a thoroughly sound and 
 rational exposition of the head and tail method, 
 which would well repay the attention of all horse- 
 men who have not already seen it. This American 
 gentleman is unrivalled in the marvellous power 
 he possesses of teaching, in a wonderfully short 
 time, horses to perform difficult feats of obedience. 
 
( 209 ) 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 BREAKING HORSES FOR LADIES* RIDING. 
 
 ALMOST any horse that is quiet for a man to 
 ride, will carry a lady steadily the first time the 
 attempt is made. The few special requirements 
 to make a well-broken-in saddle horse perfect as 
 a lady's hack, are : (i) That he must stand with- 
 out moving when she is being put on, or when 
 she mounts from a chair or block. (2) That he 
 must not shy at the habit, or sidle away from 
 it. (3) That he must "bend" himself more 
 readily, and go more " collectedly," than if 
 he had to carry a man. (4) That he must 
 understand the touch of the whip on his off side, 
 as equivalent to the pressure of the right leg. 
 
210 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 (5) And that he must learn, always, to " strike 
 off," in the canter, with the off fore leading. On 
 a good mover, a fine horsewoman will neither 
 feel, nor exhibit discomfort when the animal may 
 happen to lead with the near fore ; although, at 
 first starting, the lead with the other leg is more 
 agreeable. I may add, that the canter is a pace 
 of three time ; the succession of beats being : a. 
 leading fore ; b. non-leading fore and its opposite 
 hind-leg ; c. hind-leg of side opposite to leading 
 fore. Hence, the more a fore-leg leads in the 
 canter, the more likely is it to suffer from the 
 injurious effects of concussion. It is obvious 
 that if we wish to keep a horse sound, we should 
 not let him canter too much with the same leg 
 leading. 
 
 The first three of the conditions, just mentioned, 
 which are indispensable to the lady's horse, can 
 be quickly fulfilled by instruction on foot ; although 
 the remainder of the animal's education should 
 be completed by a good rider. I may remark, 
 
LADIES' HORSES. 211 
 
 that many ladies ride so well, that any special 
 preparation for their use, is almost needless. 
 Besides this, the short habits of the present day 
 are but little apt to make animals go unsteadily. 
 The employment of the rope - twitch (see 
 page 113) will speedily correct any unsteadiness 
 at mounting which cannot be remedied, without 
 delay, by ordinary means. The horse may be 
 broken of any tendency to shy at, or sidle away 
 from, the habit, by putting the side-saddle on, 
 fixing a rug to its near side, and giving the ani- 
 mal a few circling lessons on foot with the long 
 reins (see page 172). The same practice, with 
 frequent spells at reining back, will teach him 
 to bend and collect himself to the required ex- 
 tent. Some work with the long reins, while the 
 lady is in the saddle, will do the horse good, if 
 he be at all awkward. 
 
 p 2 
 
2i2 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 BREAKING HORSES TO HARNESS. 
 
 THE place which I prefer to all others, for 
 breaking a horse to harness, is an enclosure about 
 thirty yards square, the ground of which is level, 
 and hard enough to allow the wheels to run 
 smoothly. 
 
 Whether intended partially for saddle purposes, 
 or not, I would advise that the horse should be 
 broken in the manner already described, before 
 trying him between the shafts. Before putting 
 him in, we should circle him for half-an-hour or 
 more, with the long reins on foot (see page 172), 
 and get an assistant, while the animal is going 
 round, to gentle him under the belly and about 
 
BREAKING TO HARNESS. 213 
 
 the hind-quarters, as recommended by Pratt and 
 others, with a long pole, without hurting him, so 
 as to accustom him to its touch. The whip 
 should also be cracked about the horse, without 
 hitting him, until he ceases to mind its noise. 
 If the horse resents these operations, which inflict 
 no pain on him, the rope-twitch (see page 113) 
 may be employed to enforce the required obedi- 
 ence ; or the animal may be made to lie down 
 (see page 153), and gentled. When the horse 
 has been made quiet, he will readily take to 
 double harness if put alongside a steady break- 
 horse for a few times, and, when accustomed to 
 this work, will, as a rule, go by himself without 
 any trouble ; although he may be a little awkward 
 at first. If we want to put the animal into 
 single harness, right off, and if we have got the 
 gear at hand, we may harness the horse, put the 
 strait-jacket over the harness, buckling it up, 
 just tight enough, to prevent him kicking when 
 it is on ; and then drive him, on foot, with 
 
2i 4 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 the long reins passed through the shaft-tugs, 
 for a short time. We may now put him into 
 the shafts of some suitable, light two-wheeled 
 trap, retaining the strait -jacket over the har- 
 ness. Two assistants, one on each side, may 
 be employed to hold separate reins attached to 
 the snaffle, while the driver stands on the near 
 side, on about a line with the wheels, holding 
 another pair of reins, which pass through the 
 rings of the pad, and are, of course, fixed to the 
 snaffle. If sufficient help be at hand, it is an 
 advantage to have two other assistants to hold 
 the traces of the strait-jacket ready to let 
 out or draw tight, as may be required. After 
 the horse has gone quietly for a bit, the strait- 
 jacket may be removed, a kicking-strap substi- 
 tuted, and, after a little, an assistant may be put 
 on the driving seat, with all proper precaution. 
 When the horse has thoroughly settled down to 
 his work, the breaker may get on to the seat, 
 and dispense with the help of the other men, 
 
BREAKING TO HARNESS. 215 
 
 if he sees fit. With one man to hold the rope- 
 twitch, and with the aid of a kicking-strap, the 
 breaker, if expert, may easily manage to put a 
 horse in single harness for the first time. In an 
 enclosure such as I have described, the breaker 
 may circle the horse in the trap, with the long 
 reins on foot, by himself, and, in a short time, 
 after the animal has settled down, he may get an 
 assistant to sit in the trap. When the horse is 
 found to go quietly inside the enclosure, he may 
 be tried outside. I think it always the best and 
 easiest plan to break a horse to harness, without 
 blinkers. 
 
2 1 6 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 FAULTS OF MOUTH. 
 
 Boring Chucking up the head Pulling Rearing Shying 
 Stargazing Tender-mouthed Turn, difficult to Yawing. 
 
 THE classification of vices and faults adopted in 
 this, and the following chapters, is, necessarily, 
 somewhat arbitrary ; as their causes are more often 
 complex, than simple. The fact of many of them 
 not possessing generally accepted names, has 
 obliged me, in some cases, to sacrifice elegance 
 and correctness of expression, for an attempt at 
 conciseness and clearness of meaning. 
 
 Boring. When the horse has got into the 
 habit of carrying his head too low, we should get 
 
BORING. 217 
 
 it into proper position by circling the animal on 
 foot with the long reins (see page 172), and by 
 reining him back. When he bores on one rein 
 more than the other, we should adopt the same 
 procedure ; although we should devote our atten- 
 tion, mainly, to getting him to turn readily to the 
 side on which his mouth is "hard," until he bends 
 to it, as easily as to the other. After half-an-hour's 
 judicious driving, the horse ought to carry himself, 
 and obey the rein in the desired manner ; although 
 he may require half-a-dozen lessons to confirm the 
 habit. 
 
 Chucking up the head. Here we should teach 
 the horse, in the manner just described, to " save " 
 his mouth, by carrying his head in a proper 
 position, and by bending his neck to the pull of 
 the rein (see remarks on the standing martingale, 
 page 70). Mr. Kemp, A.V.D., tells me that the 
 animal may be easily broken of this objectionable 
 habit by using a nose-band, inside the part 
 
218 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 that goes over the nose, three or four cowrie 
 shells [small marbles would have the same effect] 
 are sewn ; the nose-band being kept in position 
 by a standing martingale, which, of course, should 
 be of the proper length (see page 70). This 
 plan is on the same principle, as the method I 
 have described ; for, in both, the horse relinquishes 
 the trick, on finding out that its practice inflicts 
 pain, and that he can save himself from punish- 
 ment, by obeying the rein. 
 
 Pulling. We should give the hard puller, at 
 least, a dozen lessons with the long reins on foot, 
 teaching him, somewhat sharply, that he must 
 obey the rein. It is, also, well to use the word 
 " whoa," or any other suitable one, as recom- 
 mended by Pratt, Magner, and others, whenever 
 we pull him up ; so that he may learn to stop on 
 hearing it. Making him lie down and keeping 
 him on the ground (see page 158) will be of great 
 service in reducing the runaway to obedience. 
 
REARING. 219 
 
 The breaker will naturally have to regulate the 
 severity and frequency of this beneficial discipline, 
 as he may see fit. 
 
 Rearing. The rearer should, in the same manner, 
 be taught to swing his quarters round, on either 
 rein being pulled, with the outward rein kept low 
 down ; and, when he is perfect at this, the lesson 
 should be completed, with this rein on the driving 
 pad. If he rears, as a defence against the action 
 of the rein, the breaker should pull all the harder. 
 If this brings the animal " over ; " so much stronger 
 will be the effect produced. When jibbing is 
 combined with rearing, if we find that the desired 
 result is not obtained by the process of driving on 
 foot, as speedily as we may wish ; we may make 
 the horse lie down, and keep him on the ground, 
 with his head turned round (see page 158), until he 
 gives in. We may also apply the same discipline to 
 those terribly dangerous animals that endeavour to 
 crush their rider, by throwing themselves backward. 
 
220 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 Shying. Leaving out all cases of shying which 
 are due to defective sight, I venture to say that 
 the vast majority of shyers can be made to 
 relinquish this annoying trick, merely by giving 
 them good mouths with the long reins on foot. 
 This mouthing practice, not alone, makes the 
 horse attentive, as well as obedient, to the indica- 
 tions of the rein, but it also teaches discipline, and 
 gives the animal confidence in his director ; and, 
 hence, removes the two causes of shying : namely, 
 fear, and wilfulness. If the shyer shows great 
 timidity, which is often combined with impatience 
 of control (see page 4), the animal should be rendered 
 quiet, as described in Chapter III. All these 
 remarks apply equally well to shying off the ball 
 at polo, and off the peg at tent-pegging, and 
 to other forms of yawing about, and not going 
 straight. 
 
 Stargazing. See " Chucking up the head." 
 Tender-mouthed. We may overcome any undue 
 
DIFFICULT TO TURN. 221 
 
 tenderness of the mouth, or unwillingness to " go 
 up to the bridle," by circling the horse on foot 
 with the long reins, with, and without, a rider on 
 the animal's back. When the horse finds that he 
 does not get his mouth " pulled about," he will, 
 in two or three lessons, gain confidence, and will 
 allow a steady pull on the reins. 
 
 Turn, difficult to. The practice with the long 
 reins on foot, advocated for the correction of 
 shying, etc., will be found to be an effective 
 remedy in this case ; and is specially applicable 
 for polo ponies that shy off the ball, and are 
 difficult to turn quickly. 
 
 " Yawing." The animal may be broken of this 
 habit, when ridden, of going from side to side, 
 instead of straight, by the method recommended 
 for shying. 
 
222 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 CHAPTER XL 
 
 NERVOUSNESS AND IMPATIENCE OF CONTROL. 
 
 Buck-jumping Difficult to bridle, handle, mount, dismount, ball, 
 or drench Difficult to put into a railway train, ship's horse- 
 box, etc. Difficult to shoe Nervous of being touched with 
 the heel Unsteady with the whip ; under fire ; when drawing 
 swords, etc. 
 
 Buck-jumping. The best procedure I know to 
 overcome this vice, is to circle the horse with 
 the long reins on foot, frequently turning him 
 (see " Shying/' page 220), for about half-an-hour ; 
 make him lie down, and keep him on the ground 
 with his head turned round (see page 158), till he, 
 apparently, " gives in " ; then let him up ; tie him 
 head and tail, and saddle him, with one girth 
 over the cord (see page 197); let him revolve 
 round, and while he does so, gentle him on the 
 
B UCKJUMPING. 2 2 3 
 
 ribs with the end of the long pole (see page 203), 
 until he stands its touch. The horse can now be 
 mounted in the manner described on page 197. 
 If we have got a rider that does not mind the 
 chance of a fall, we may omit the head and tail 
 business, and have the horse saddled and mounted 
 with the long reins on him, when he recovers his 
 feet after undergoing his discipline on the ground. 
 The breaker who holds the long reins, should 
 pull the horse round, from side to side, the 
 moment the assistant gets into the saddle ; and, 
 having obtained control over him, should circle 
 and turn him several times, until he goes quite 
 freely. The long reins can now be taken off, and 
 the snaffle reins given to the rider, who, previous to 
 this, should not touch the reins ; although he may 
 use the breast-plate, or other convenient object, as 
 an aid, in case of accident, for retaining his balance. 
 
 Difficult to bridle, handle, mount, dismount, ball, 
 or drench. Teaching the animal, with the rope- 
 
224 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 twitch, to pay attention to the word * ' steady ! " 
 (see page in), will cure all these vices. In 
 Chapter III. I have described at some length 
 various methods to be adopted with horses 
 difficult to handle. The use of the rope-twitch 
 is singularly efficacious for making animals steady 
 to mount and dismount. Mr. D. C. Pallin, 
 A.V.D., informs me that he has invariably 
 succeeded with horses that were deemed im- 
 possible to drench, in making them drink, by 
 mounting them ; sitting well forward ; drawing 
 the head round to the off-side by the head-stall 
 with the left hand ; and then giving them the 
 draught out of a bottle with the right hand. 
 This gentleman also advises to have a man on 
 the back of a horse that is difficult to ball, while 
 the operator is giving the bolus. I need hardly 
 say that the aim of these expedients, valuable as 
 they are, is to make the horse take the drench, or 
 ball, at the time, and not to make him permanently 
 quiet, in this respect. 
 
DIFFICULT TO SHOE. 225 
 
 Difficidt to put into a railway train, ship's horse- 
 box, etc. Use the crupper leading-rein, the rope- 
 twitch, or the Comanche bridle (see page 261), or 
 both. Before making the actual attempt, the 
 appliance, whichever one be used, should be 
 put into requisition a few times, so that the 
 animal may understand what is demanded of 
 him. 
 
 Difficult to shoe. Use the rope- twitch (see 
 page 113); lift the foot, if a fore one, with the 
 rope-noose (see page 88), or suspend it from the 
 surcingle (see page 102) ; if a hind one, with the 
 hobble, and double cord attached to the tail (see 
 page 135). Gentle the limb, and gradually 
 accustom the hoof to the hammer ; correcting 
 the horse with the twitch, if obliged to do so. 
 If the horse be very obstinate, or very violent, it 
 may be well to bring him under control, by 
 making him lie down, and, if necessary, holding him 
 down with his head pulled round (see page 158). 
 
226 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 Nervous of being touched with the heel. Tie 
 the horse head and tail and gentle him with the 
 end of the long pole in the ribs (see page 203) ; 
 or use the rope-twitch while the rider is in the 
 saddle, and while he touches the animal, so as 
 not to hurt him, with his unarmed heel. 
 
 Unsteady with the whip ; under Jire ; when 
 drawing swords, etc. Teach the horse, while he 
 is under the provocation to which he objects, by 
 the use of the rope-twitch (see page 113), to 
 stand quietly on receiving the command " steady ! "; 
 or use the head-and-tail method. 
 
CHAPTER XII. 
 
 JIBBING IN SADDLE. 
 
 SPEAKING generally, we may consider jibbing to be 
 the determined manifestation of stubbornness in 
 the horse. 
 
 Acting on the sound principle that we should 
 apply no more coercion to the animal than is 
 absolutely necessary, we should at first try the 
 effect of driving the jibber, on foot, with the long 
 reins (see page 172). After it has consented to 
 go quietly without anyone on its back, we may 
 put an assistant in the saddle without giving him 
 the reins, and continue driving the animal until 
 it moves freely in every direction. The rider 
 may then take the reins, and circle and turn 
 
 Q 2 
 
228 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 the animal several times before taking it for a 
 regular ride. If the horse resolutely sulks, the 
 breaker, to expedite matters, may make it lie 
 down with the proper tackle and hold it down, 
 with its head turned round (see page 158), until 
 it, apparently, gives in ; after which it may get 
 another trial at circling. If it still resists, it 
 should be put down again, and, so on, for three, 
 or four times. This change of discipline is most 
 efficacious for the jibber, who quickly seems to 
 recognise the fact, that the irksome constraint on 
 the ground is a punishment for its misbehaviour. 
 Having failed, after putting forth all its powers 
 of opposition, to resist the one form of coercion, 
 it will have but little energy left to stiffen its 
 neck against the other. By adopting this plan 
 with patience, as well as firmness, and without 
 using the whip, except to crack it, the breaker 
 ought to succeed with almost any jibber in one 
 lesson of a couple of hours' duration. The 
 desired effect can be produced much easier in a 
 
JIBBING. 229 
 
 secluded enclosure, than in the open. I believe I 
 have been the first to employ this method of 
 making a horse lie down in combination with the 
 driving on foot as a remedy for jibbing. 
 
 It is not uncommon to meet with, in the 
 mounted branches of the Army, horses that will 
 go anywhere in company, but will refuse to quit the 
 ranks by themselves, or to act as single riding 
 horses. This peculiarity ; the habit of trying to 
 shoulder the rider's leg up against a wall, tree, or 
 other convenient object ; and all other forms of 
 jibbing, should be treated in the manner just 
 described. 
 
 For jibbing in harness, see page 236. 
 
2 3 o ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 JUMPING FAULTS. 
 
 "Chancing" fences Jumping too slowly Refusing Running 
 out at fences Rushing at fences. 
 
 "Chancing" fences. This dangerous fault may 
 be corrected by driving the horse with the long 
 reins over fences (see Chapter VI.) which are too 
 stiff to chance, but which are well within the 
 compass of the animal's powers. 
 
 Jumping too slowly. Many horses commit this 
 fault without attempting, in any way, to refuse. It 
 is often caused by the practice of teaching animals 
 to jump by means of the cavesson and leading-rein ; 
 for, by employing this method, the weight is unduly 
 
REFUSING. 231 
 
 thrown on the fore-hand, and consequently the 
 horse, not having his hind-legs well under him 
 when he " lands " over the fence, is unable to 
 get quickly away from it. Besides this, the horse 
 has to moderate his speed in accordance with 
 that of the man in front of him. By driving 
 horses with the long reins on foot, in the manner 
 described in Chapter VI., we teach them to go 
 with their hind-legs well under them and at any 
 pace we like ; and, by so doing, we can quickly 
 get them out of the habit of " dwelling" at their 
 fences. 
 
 "Refusing." See Chapters VI. and XII. 
 Before taking in hand a horse that jumps " un- 
 kindly," we should carefully examine him in order 
 to see if his fault arises from disease, or infirmity. 
 If such be the case, the animal should not be 
 tried at jumping, until he is sound. 
 
 Running oiit at fences. For this, we should use 
 
2 3 2 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 the long reins on foot. By their proper employ- 
 ment, we can make a horse go so straight that he 
 will turn neither to one side, nor to the other, when 
 jumping a 3 ft. 6 in. post and rails, for instance, 
 which is only 3 ft. long, and is unprovided with 
 wings of any sort. 
 
 Rushing at fences. This fault can also be easily 
 overcome by the employment of the long reins 
 on foot, and the horse made to regulate his pace, 
 according to the wish of his rider, without 
 shewing any impatience. 
 
233 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 VICES IN HARNESS. 
 
 Difficult to harness Difficult to unharness Getting the tail over 
 the rein and kicking Hanging against the pole Jibbing 
 Kicking Lying down Plunging forward at starting Pulling 
 away from the pole Undue fear of the whip. 
 
 Difficult to harness. Place the trap in the 
 centre of the enclosure, and drive the horse, on 
 foot, with the long reins, all about it, and back 
 him between the shafts, so that he may get 
 accustomed to it. We may then tie up one fore- 
 leg, apply the rope-twitch, and have the horse 
 harnessed by drawing up the cart, while he is kept 
 standing still. After repeating this, once or twice, 
 the leg may be let down, and the harnessing 
 performed as before. After the horse has become 
 quite steady, he may be backed into the shafts. 
 
234 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 Or, we may put the strait-jacket on over the har- 
 ness, make the horse lie down two or three 
 times with it, and having got him on to his feet 
 again, draw the traces of the strait-jacket so 
 tight, that, if he attempt to move, he will fall down. 
 While keeping him in this position, we may try 
 to bring the shafts over his back, letting him fall 
 if he begins to struggle. In the great majority 
 of cases, the horse will quickly learn to regard 
 the falling down as a punishment for his unsteadi- 
 ness, which he cannot resist ; and will accordingly 
 give in, and stand quietly. After he does so, we 
 may gradually slacken out the traces of the strait- 
 jacket, until we can remove this apparatus alto- 
 gether. We may tie up the leg, or employ the 
 rope-twitch, as may be advisable. For safety 
 sake, in single harness, we should use a kicking- 
 strap. If the animal is very determined in his 
 resistance, we may take the obstinacy out of him, 
 by making him lie down, and keeping his head 
 turned round (see page 158). 
 
VICES IN HARNESS. 235 
 
 Difficult to unharness. Use the rope-twitch, 
 which will be sufficient in almost all cases. To 
 prevent the animal springing forward, we may 
 employ the strait-jacket, or make him lie down. 
 
 Getting the tail over the rein and kicking. I 
 regret to say that I know no means of perma- 
 nently breaking a horse of the habit of whisking 
 his tail over the rein, at times, when it is within 
 reach. We may, however, by driving the animal 
 on foot, and accustoming him to bear the rein 
 under the tail, or by using the rope-twitch (see 
 page 1 1 3), teach the horse not to kick, when he 
 finds the rein in that position. I presume that the 
 horse might be taught, by the rope-twitch, not to 
 whisk his tail over the rein, on feeling it touch 
 his hind-quarters ; although, not having practically 
 tested this expedient, I cannot speak positively as 
 to its merits. I have rendered several animals 
 that were previously addicted to the habit in 
 question, quiet when the rein got under their 
 
236 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 tails, or touched their quarters, by the means 
 described ; and by gentling those parts when the 
 animal was tied head and tail (see page 203). I 
 have met some cases, in which the kicking was 
 caused by pain due to pressure on melanotic 
 tumours that were on the under surface of the 
 dock. 
 
 Hanging against the pole. The remedy, here, 
 would be driving with the long reins. For the first 
 few times that the animal was driven with another 
 horse, he might have a pair of reins to him- 
 self, as well as the pair which connects him to 
 his fellow. 
 
 Jibbing. We should break the unharnessed 
 horse of jibbing in the manner described in 
 Chapter XII., and may then put him in a light 
 trap, inside the enclosure, and try to circle him, 
 with the long reins, on the side to which he more 
 readily bends. Having accomplished this, we 
 
JIBBING. 237 
 
 should endeavour to get him, by a wide sweep, 
 to turn to the other rein, and, if we are success- 
 ful, should circle him freely in it ; turning and 
 changing him, as we may deem advisable. If the 
 animal remain obstinate, we should take him out, 
 and put him again through the necessary discipline 
 of the long reins ; or we may keep him on the 
 ground with his head turned round (see Chapter 
 XII.). As soon as we think he has given in, we 
 may put him into the shafts, and give him another 
 trial. In attempting to start, or turn the animal, 
 we should, on no account, use the whip, except, 
 perhaps, to crack it ; but should continue to pull 
 the horse's head from side to side with the reins, 
 so as to make him strike off in the desired 
 direction. I think it best to refrain from speaking 
 to the horse, while all this is being done. When 
 the horse circles and turns with perfect obedience 
 to the rein, we may, while keeping him at a walk, 
 get an assistant to quietly mount into the trap, 
 and give him the reins, as soon as the animal 
 
238 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 shews that he does not mind his presence behind 
 him. The horse may now be taken into the open, 
 and circled and turned by the man in the cart, a 
 few times, before being taken for a steady drive. 
 
 Before the animal is harnessed, we should 
 satisfy ourselves that the jibbing is not caused by 
 any ailment, such as sore shoulders, which should 
 be cured before we proceed further. 
 
 We should be careful not to use any words, 
 or other signals that might remind the animal 
 of previous acts of disobedience which, presumedly, 
 had been successful in their object. As before 
 remarked, I like to use, when breaking a horse of 
 jibbing, a plain bridle ; because I find animals go 
 kinder without blinkers, than with them. 
 
 If a jibber appears afraid of the whip, it is 
 well, in the first instance, to prove to him (see 
 page 241) that we are not going to hurt him, when 
 we crack it, or flourish it about. 
 
 Kicking. We should put the animal through 
 
KICKING. 239 
 
 the course of discipline described in Chapter IX. 
 The strait-jacket put on loosely, or the kicking- 
 strap, will prevent him doing any mischief. Before 
 putting the animal between the shafts, he should 
 be well driven with the long reins, for from thirty 
 minutes, to an hour ; so that he may pay attention 
 to the indications of the rein. If he persists in 
 kicking, he should be made to lie down, and, 
 then, gentled on the ground ; or he may be kept 
 down with his head turned round (see page 158) 
 until he gives in. Mr. Mitchell, A.V.D., who is 
 an excellent breaker, tells me that he has obtained 
 admirable results with bad kickers, by fixing, 
 parallel to their sides, two stout poles, each about 
 7 feet long, secured in front of the chest and 
 behind the quarters, so that the animal cannot 
 get free from them ; and then letting him kick, 
 till he is tired. This method, by giving the horse 
 nothing to kick at, will soon teach him the use- 
 lessness of doing so. In most cases, I would be 
 inclined to use the rope-twitch, in order to make 
 
2 4 o ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 the horse learn the salutary lesson of connecting, 
 in his own mind, the idea of punishment, with the 
 practice of his favourite vice. 
 
 The old expedient of tying a kicker's tail to 
 the splinter bar, is often successful in breaking 
 the animal of this objectionable habit. In other 
 cases, it serves only to aggravate the vice. The 
 tail may, here, be easily secured by a double sheet 
 bend (see Fig. 30). 
 
 Lying down. The habit of lying down in harness, 
 is, no doubt, in many instances, difficult to cure. To 
 accomplish this end, particular attention should be 
 paid to making the animal obey the indications of 
 the rein, by driving him on foot with the long reins. 
 The trap used to practise him in, should be a very 
 light, two-wheeled one. If he lies down, a sharp 
 slap on his muzzle will generally make him jump 
 up. The lesson, of course, should be given in the 
 enclosure. In extreme cases, he should be put 
 through the discipline detailed for jibbing. 
 
HARNESS VICES. 241 
 
 P 'lunging forward at starting. Use the rope- 
 twitch (see page 113) ; or drive the animal, in the 
 enclosure, on foot, with the long reins, while he 
 is in the trap, after having given him a good 
 long mouthing lesson (see page 172), and practise 
 him at circling, turning, starting, and pulling up. 
 
 Pulling away from the pole. See that the 
 coupling chain is not too tight. Treat as for 
 " Hanging against the pole" (page 236). 
 
 Undue fear of the whip. Circle the horse with 
 the long reins on foot (see page 172), and get an 
 assistant to crack the whip all about him, without 
 touching him with it, until he ceases to mind it ; 
 or do so, while he is tied head and tail. An 
 application or two of the rope-twitch (see page 
 113) will expedite matters. The breaker should 
 4 'make much of" the horse, when the animal 
 stands quietly under the provocation given. 
 
 R 
 
242 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 AGGRESSIVENESS. 
 Biting Kicking Savaging Striking out in front. 
 
 Biting. Apply the wooden gag (see page 145) ; 
 tie up one fore-leg, or put on the strait-jacket ; 
 and gentle the horse all over, to shew him that he 
 cannot bite, and that, when he vainly attempts to 
 do so, he will hurt his mouth, by the pressure of the 
 gag on his gums. On this account, its action is 
 most salutary, and differs entirely from that of a 
 muzzle, which simply protects the object of the 
 animal's resentment, without either checking the 
 practice of the habit, or punishing him for indulging 
 in it. I need hardly say, that, with the gag on, the 
 horse is unable to bring his teeth together. The 
 
BITTNG. 243 
 
 fore-leg may be let down, or the strait-jacket 
 taken off, as soon as the horse is quiet to handle 
 with the gag alone. This instrument may be kept 
 in the horse's mouth, for an hour at a time, during 
 which period he should be handled with gentleness 
 and freedom ; particular care being taken not to 
 irritate the animal, whose confidence and affection 
 we should now endeavour to win. The worst biter 
 ought to be rendered safe to handle, when the gag 
 is out of his mouth, by three of these lessons a day, 
 for two or three days. For safety-sake, the breaker 
 might teach the horse the use of the word " steady! " 
 with the rope-twitch (see page 1 1 3). Though many 
 bad, treacherous biters have passed through my 
 hands, I have never met one that would attempt 
 to bite when the gag was taken out of his mouth, 
 after he had been gentled, with it on, for a quarter 
 of an hour, or even less. It might be advisable, 
 with very vicious horses, to make them lie down, 
 and hold them with their heads turned round, until 
 they had " given in " (see page 158). 
 
 R 2 
 
244 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 Kicking. A horse that tries to deliberately kick 
 anyone that comes within reach, may be broken of 
 the habit by the rope-twitch (see page 113) ; or by 
 making him lie down (see page 153). In such cases, 
 it is well to thoroughly mouth the animal on foot 
 with the long reins ; so as to make him more 
 attentive to the indications of the rein, than to the 
 practice of his favourite vice. The man who drives 
 on foot, in the enclosure, is secure from getting 
 kicked by the horse ; for, if the animal attempts to 
 lash out at him, he can always pull the horse's head 
 round with the rein. Mouthing on foot, is specially 
 applicable to horses that are in the habit of kicking 
 at other horses, hounds, etc. 
 
 It is advisable to teach a kicker to turn his hind- 
 quarters away from us (see page 86), when we 
 approach him ; supposing, of course, that he is free 
 to do so. 
 
 Savaging. Put the animal through the discipline 
 advised for biting, in the preceding paragraph ; give 
 
AGGRESSIVENESS. 245 
 
 several (say, half-a-dozen) good mouthing lessons, 
 with the long reins, on foot ; and, if the animal be 
 inclined to savage horses, or men, while being 
 ridden, substitute for the ordinary breaking snaffle, 
 the wooden gag (see page 145) during his mouth- 
 ing lessons ; and, also, ride him in it, for a few 
 times. Savaging at polo may be easily cured in this 
 manner. 
 
 An expert breaker can always manage to pull 
 round a horse that rushes at him, while the animal 
 is being driven on foot. Even when the horse 
 
 c> 
 
 backs and kicks, as well as attempts to savage, the 
 driver can easily keep him in control, by pulling 
 him round, alternately, with each rein. One has, 
 naturally, to be quicker when a horse rushes at 
 one than when he backs. I confine the expression, 
 "savaging," to the habit some animals have of 
 worrying the object of their dislike, with or without 
 rushing at it ; and, " biting," to the simple act of 
 snapping with the teeth. Practical horsemen will 
 understand this somewhat arbitrary distinction. I 
 
246 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 may remark that horses often bite, without, 
 apparently, any vicious intention. 
 
 Striking out in front. We may tie up one 
 fore-leg, put the strait-jacket on, apply the rope- 
 twitch, or tie the horse head and tail, and then 
 gentle both fore-legs. The use of the rope-twitch 
 will, generally, be found to be the quickest method. 
 
247 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 RIDING AND DRIVING THE NEWLY-BROKEN HORSE. 
 
 HAVING made the horse as perfect as we can on 
 foot, we should complete his education by riding 
 him with skill and judgment. If we find that he 
 shews signs of becoming unruly, or of recom- 
 mencing some of his old tricks, it is far better to get 
 off, and make him steady, in the manner before 
 detailed, before proceeding further ; than to risk 
 any chance of a defeat while on his back. If he 
 happen to develop such symptoms, we may feel 
 assured that the fault is on our side, in having 
 carried out his instruction on foot, in an imperfect 
 manner. As I accord unqualified admiration for 
 our best English and Irish styles of riding, whether 
 
24 8 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 on the flat, across country, or in the school, I shall 
 refrain from going over old ground, and shall content 
 myself, here, with adding a few remarks which have 
 special reference to the recently handled animal. 
 
 When mounting, the breaker should make the 
 animal stand perfectly still, until it gets the proper 
 indication to move forward. 
 
 He should make the horse carry himself in good 
 style, by keeping him up to the bit with the pressure 
 of the leg, and by having a nice light feeling on his 
 mouth. 
 
 All horses should be taught to rein back with 
 ease and precision. 
 
 According as the animal requires to be bent and 
 collected for his own particular work, so should he 
 be instructed in turning, circling and changing, with 
 the proper leg, shouldering in, and passaging. 
 When the reins are taken up in both hands, they 
 should be used in the same style as that re- 
 commended for the long reins (see page 174). If 
 necessary, the horse may now be taught to obey 
 
RIDING. 249 
 
 the reins when held in one hand, and may be 
 practised in the use of the curb. 
 
 When the horse has learnt to go smoothly, his 
 mouth should be interfered with as little as possible. 
 I am entirely against the practice of keeping the 
 animal in a constant state of attention to signals 
 from the reins ; as it makes him rely on his rider, 
 rather than on his own cleverness, to extricate him 
 out of difficulties, and renders him uncertain, and 
 lacking in self-confidence. This is especially the 
 case in jumping, at which work the rider should 
 limit his interference, if the horse is going too fast, 
 to dropping his hands, and taking a pull, thirty or 
 forty yards from the fence, and, then, letting the horse 
 measure his own distance, and take off, as suits him 
 best. If the animal's attention be distracted by the 
 rider's interference at this critical moment, the risk 
 of an accident will be greatly enhanced. The 
 foregoing is the substance of the advice given by 
 Mr. John Hubert Moore to his pupil, that well- 
 known fine horseman, Colonel Hickman of the 2ist 
 
2 5 o ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 Hussars, who attributes the immunity he has 
 enjoyed from bad falls, over all kinds of country, 
 and on all sorts of horses, to its rigid observance. 
 
 When the newly-broken horse is put into the 
 shafts, he should be driven according to the 
 principles laid down for riding him, in so far as 
 they apply to harness work. 
 
( 251 ) 
 
 CHAPTER XVII. 
 
 STABLE VICES. 
 
 Difficult and vicious to catch Hanging back on the head-stall 
 Kicking Kicking at night Pawing at night Pawing back 
 the litter Rubbing the tail Sleeping standing. 
 
 Difficult and vicious to catch. If the animal be 
 viciously inclined, make him quiet by the methods 
 described in the preceding chapters. Teach him to 
 come up to you when you call him (see page 261) ; 
 and to turn his quarters away from you, when you 
 approach him (see page 87). 
 
 Hanging back on the head-stall. The Americans 
 employ the crupper leading-rein (see page 148), to 
 hitch up a horse given to this fault. I have been 
 
252 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 told that a good way is to shorten the rack chain, 
 by tying it with a piece of thin twine, so that 
 when the animal pulls on the chain, he will break 
 the twine, and will then cease to pull, on the pre- 
 sumed supposition that he has broken the chain. 
 For horses with this habit, it is common to place a 
 broad band across the lower part of the stall, so as 
 to allow the animal to rest against it, if he likes. 
 
 Kicking. See Chapter XV. We may, also, 
 teach the animal to " stand over" in his stall, by 
 pulling his head round with a cord attached to the 
 side of the head-stall, passed through a ring on 
 the top of the roller, and carried outside of the 
 stall, while giving, simultaneously with the pull on 
 the cord, some appropriate verbal order, such as 
 "over!" (See Fig. 47.) 
 
 Kicking at night. I have no experience in break- 
 ing horses of this habit. I would suggest the 
 employment of the strait-waistcoat, which should 
 
KICKING. 255 
 
 be loose enough to allow the animal to lie down 
 and get up. I have seen it recommended, in such 
 cases, to hang some soft object, such as a large bag 
 filled with hay, behind the animal, so that, when he 
 kicked, it would give to the stroke, and would then 
 swing back and hit him, without hurting him ; the 
 effect being that the horse would get tired of kicking 
 the inoffensive object, and would, accordingly, drop 
 the habit. If this method be adopted, I would 
 suggest that the animal should, before being left for 
 the night, be accustomed to the stuffed bag, or 
 whatever else is used, touching him. Tying up one 
 fore-leg, or applying the rope-twitch, will keep him 
 quiet while this is being done. I take for granted 
 that he has been, previously, made thoroughly 
 docile, with the exception of this particular vice. 
 The strait-jacket, loosely put on, would, I have no 
 doubt, prevent the kicking. If it was properly 
 applied, and, gradually let out, say, a hole or two, 
 each night, it would, in all probability, break the 
 horse of the habit. 
 
256 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING, 
 
 Pawing at night. I have prevented the practice 
 of this vice by employing a spancel (coupling strap) 
 to connect the animal's fore-legs together, so as to 
 give him freedom to lie down, but not to paw. 
 The use of this strap would, no doubt, in time, 
 cure the vice. 
 
 Pawing back the litter. I note that a corre- 
 spondent, replying to a query, in the Field, as to 
 some means of stopping this practice, which causes 
 the horse to sleep, more or less, on the bare floor, 
 states that connecting the fore-legs in the manner 
 I have just described, will accomplish the object in 
 view, and, after a few repetitions, will wean the 
 animal from the habit. 
 
 Rubbing the tail. Although this vice comes more 
 within the province of the veterinary surgeon, than 
 within that of the breaker, a few remarks on it may 
 not, here, be out of place. Mr. D. C. Pallin, 
 A. V. D., who is a thorough good authority on all 
 
TYING THE TAIL WITH TAPE. 
 
 257 
 
 matters connected with horses, tells me that he has 
 always found the plan of tying the animal's tail 
 round, with two separate pieces of tape (see Fig. 48) 
 
 Fig. 48. Tail tied with tapes to prevent horse rubbing it. 
 
 to be efficacious in stopping the practice of this 
 habit. I may add, that this result may, also, as a 
 rule, be obtained by the application, with the finger, 
 from time to time, of a little blue mercurial oint- 
 
 s 
 
258 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 ment, round the inside of the anus. If the rubbing 
 be due to the presence of worms, or to skin disease, 
 appropriate remedies should be employed. 
 
 Sleeping standing. There are many horses that 
 will never, voluntarily, lie down a habit which 
 seriously detracts from their capacity for work. 
 Such horses might be taught to lie down (see 
 page 153), and, when they had done so, might be 
 kept in the recumbent position by the strait- 
 jacket. Having no experience in this matter, I 
 offer the advice, merely, as a possibly useful sugges- 
 tion. In all cases, a good, deep bed of straw will be 
 a strong inducement for a horse to lie down. 
 
( 2 59 ) 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 TEACHING THE HORSE TRICKS. 
 
 u Begging " Bowing Circling steadily for Circus Work Coming up 
 to Call Driving without Reins Following Jumping over 
 another Horse, etc. Kissing Laughing Lying down " No " 
 Picking up a Handkerchief, etc. See-sawing on a Plank, etc. 
 Shaking. Hands Shaking the Head Waltzing " Yes." 
 
 I MAY mention, that the pluckier a horse is, 
 the more amenable will he be to instruction. 
 
 In teaching these tricks, it is well to accustom 
 the animal to some invariable and suitable signal, 
 whether vocal, or manual, for each separate feat : 
 and to award his obedience by a piece of carrot, 
 lump of sugar, crust of bread, bite of lucern, bit 
 of sugar-cane, caress, or other appropriate mark 
 of approval. 
 
 "Begging" The horse may be taught to 
 
 s 2 
 
260 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 " beg " that is, to stand with one fore-leg bent 
 and off the ground by attaching a strap, or 
 cord, to the pastern of that limb, and, then, 
 pulling up the foot, while at the same time, 
 repeating the word "beg!" After a little, a 
 cutting whip, or cane, to tap the leg, may be 
 substituted for the cord. 
 
 Jj owing. While standing at the animal's 
 shoulder, lightly prick him on the breast with a 
 pin ; so as to make him bend his neck, and bite 
 at the offending object. He will, thus, soon 
 learn to make his bow, at the mere advance 
 of the hand in the direction of the indicated 
 part. 
 
 Circling steadily for circus-work. Fix the 
 horse's head in position, so as to obtain adequate 
 control, by side-reins ; and circle the horse in 
 the ring, with the long reins (see page 172), until 
 he learns to canter round, at a steady, uniform 
 
JUMPING. 261 
 
 rate of speed. Gradually dispense with the use 
 of the long reins. 
 
 Coming up to call. We may make the horse 
 come up to us, when we call him, in two ways : 
 i. By getting him to stand still in the manner 
 described on page 86 ; and making him come up, 
 by threatening him with the whip, alternately, on 
 either side. In this way, he can be taught to 
 come up, by, simply, holding up the whip. 2. By 
 the use of the Comanche bridle (see Figs. 49, 50, 
 and 51), in making the horse turn round towards 
 one, first, at one side, and, then, on the other ; 
 always accompanying the pull of the cord, with 
 the words, " Come here ! " or some similar 
 expression. Mr. C. G. Frasier taught me this 
 method. 
 
 Following. See preceding paragraph. 
 
 over another Horse, etc. Let us 
 suppose that we want to make one horse stand 
 
262 
 
 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 perfectly still, and unheld, while another jumps 
 over him. We might, then, adopt the following 
 procedure. Take an enclosed ring, like that of a 
 
 FIG. 49. Comanche bridle, off side. 
 
 circus, and close to its side, and on one of its 
 diameters, construct a trench about 3 feet deep, 
 and 2 feet 6 inches wide, with a ramp leading 
 
COMANCHE BRIDLE. 
 
 263 
 
 down to it. Within this trench, place a clothes- 
 horse, or other convenient stand, with rugs over 
 
 FIG. 50. Comanche bridle, near side. 
 
 it, and teach, with the long reins (see page 172), 
 the jumper to go round the circle, and jump this 
 
264 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 stand. We should continue the instruction, until 
 he will jump it without reins. To attain this, 
 when he is loose, we may have to keep on the 
 standing martingale, or use side-reins ; so as to 
 
 FiG.51. The knot on offside of Comanche bridle enlarged. 
 
 obtain the necessary control. We may, then, 
 substitute, for the dummy, the real horse, and 
 teach him to stand perfectly still, by means of 
 the rope-twitch (see page 113). All that, now, 
 
KISSING. 265 
 
 remains, is to gradually fill up the trench, while 
 continuing the lessons. 
 
 Kissing. This is done by accustoming the horse 
 to take some coveted bit of food out of one's 
 mouth. 
 
 Laughing. This is accomplished in the same 
 way, as a horse is taught to shake his head, by 
 pricking him with a pin, except that, here, the 
 irritation is applied to the muzzle. The horse, 
 thus, learns, on the signal being given, to turn up 
 his upper lip, and shew his teeth. I forget 
 where I, first, saw mention of this trick, which 
 appears to me, neither useful, nor amusing. 
 
 Lying down. Make the horse lie down in the 
 manner described on page 153. When he does so, 
 without offering any resistance, let down the 
 strapped-up leg, and repeat the lesson, until 
 perfect obedience is obtained. We may, then, 
 
266 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 take off the throwing gear, and make him lie 
 down, by drawing his head round to, say, the 
 near side, with the rein, while standing alongside 
 the off shoulder. The horse will, now, easily 
 learn to lie down, on receiving a signal to do so, 
 by bringing his head round, or, even, by simply 
 saying the words, " Lie down," if they have 
 been employed from the commencement of the 
 teaching. It is, always, well to conduct these 
 lessons on a soft piece of ground with plenty of 
 litter on it ; so as to afford the animal an 
 inducement to lie down. Colonel Salkeld of the 
 2nd Bengal Cavalry has suggested to me the 
 advisability of giving this instruction to army 
 horses, when ordered, after parade, at a time 
 when they are, more or less, tired. 
 
 " No" Take a pin, and prick the horse on 
 the crest with it, until he shakes his head, which 
 he will, readily, do, on that part becoming 
 irritated ; as that action is the only means he 
 
OBEYING WITHOUT REINS. 267 
 
 possesses of getting rid of any annoying object 
 which may pitch on that region. By continuing to 
 touch the horse with the pin, we can make him 
 so sensitive as to shake his head, when touched, 
 only, by the finger ; and, finally, even by, merely, 
 raising the hand, which will be a suitable signal to 
 make an animal signify his dissent from a question 
 he may be asked. This is an old circus trick. 
 
 Obeying without reins. Mr. Rockwell, the 
 American horse-tamer, instructed three horses so 
 well, that he was able to drive them together in 
 a trap, and make them moderate their speed, 
 turn, stop, and go on, in perfect obedience, by 
 signals, without reins. Professor Sample used to 
 drive tandem with a leader that did his work 
 without either reins, or traces ! The following 
 would be appropriate signals for performing these 
 feats: "Clicking" with the tongue; for "go on." 
 "Steady"; for "moderate speed." Holding up 
 whip, or saying "whoa!" for "stop." Holding 
 
268 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 whip to the left, or "left"; for " turn to the 
 left." Holding whip to the right, or "right"; 
 for "turn to the right." 
 
 The right-about-turn, and left-about-turn, might 
 be indicated by bringing the whip round, to 
 the right rear, or to the left rear, as the case 
 might be. The signals should be taught the 
 horse by employing them, on all occasions, when 
 using the equivalent indications of the rein, 
 which, to be additionally impressive, should be 
 given sharper than usual. 
 
 Picking up a handkerchief, etc. This is, usually, 
 taught while standing at the horse's side, by 
 pricking him on the ribs with a pin, or pinching 
 him, so as to make him turn round and snap, 
 and, consequently, to seize with his teeth, a 
 handkerchief that is held in a convenient position 
 for him to do so. When he catches hold of the 
 handkerchief, the teacher should take it gently 
 away, and should substitute some appropriate 
 
SEE-SAWING. 269 
 
 dainty. The horse will, then, soon learn to 
 recognise the fact, that he gets a reward for 
 taking hold of the handkerchief; and, then, can 
 be readily taught to pick it up, or to take it off 
 one of his legs, to which it is loosely tied. 
 Horses that are naturally ticklish, and inclined to 
 snap, are the quickest to learn this trick, in this 
 manner. Instead of getting the horse to catch 
 hold by irritating him, the same object may be 
 obtained by tying up, in the handkerchief, a piece 
 of carrot, or other bonne louche, and inducing 
 the animal to lift up the handkerchief, in hfs 
 endeavour to get at the contained morsel. 
 
 See- sawing on a plank , etc. Employ the rope- 
 twitch (see Figs. 19-22, pages 108-18), and Co- 
 manche bridle (see Figs. 49-51). 
 
 Shaking hands. Teach, as in " begging," q.v., 
 the animal to advance his foot, by pulling it 
 forward. 
 
270 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 Shaking the head. See " No." 
 
 Waltzing. Tie the horse head and tail (see 
 Fig. 45, page 200), and make him go round by 
 flourishing the whip. As the animal obeys, 
 gradually slacken out the cord, until it can be 
 removed. 
 
 y es ." See " Bowing." 
 
CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 TESTING A HORSE'S MANNERS, MOUTH, AND TEMPER. 
 
 IF we circle a horse with the long reins (see 
 page 1 68), turn, jump, and rein him back, we shall 
 be able to form a good idea of his manners, 
 mouth, and temper, by the way in which he 
 goes through his " facings." We may, further, 
 test him, by cracking a whip near him, touching 
 him all over with a long pole, and gently 
 prodding him in the ribs. As a final proof, we 
 may make him lie down, in the manner described 
 on page 153 ; when it will be easy to see whether 
 he be actuated by a plucky spirit, or by a sullen 
 disposition, which will, always, cause him to adopt 
 a policy of passive resistance. The methods I 
 have here, briefly described, are of great practical 
 value. 
 
272 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 CHAPTER XX. 
 
 ON IMPROVISED GEAR. 
 
 ALTHOUGH I have described in the foregoing 
 pages, a variety of special appliances ; still it is 
 well to draw attention to the fact that the whole 
 system of breaking can be carried out with gear 
 which can be improvised without difficulty. We 
 can make a standing martingale with a piece of 
 doubled cord, knotted near the centre to form a 
 loop for the girth to pass through ; while the 
 free ends are connected to the rings of the 
 snaffle : or the cord, or strap may be attached to 
 the ring of the breast-plate, in front of the 
 chest; or, as mentioned on page 182, a cord may 
 connect the rings of the standing martingale to 
 those of the snaffle. A stirrup-leather will serve 
 as a leg-strap (see Figs. 14 and 16, pages 101 
 
ON IMPROVED GEAR. 273 
 
 and 102). Ropes will do for driving reins; a 
 saddle, for a driving-pad (see Figs. 43 and 44, 
 page 185). A head-stall, strong roller, couple 
 of iron rings, crupper, stirrup-leather, pair of 
 knee-caps, and a strong cord, are all that is 
 required for making a horse lie down. An 
 ordinary rope will serve to form a twitch. Any 
 stable rug will do for blindfolding the horse. 
 No special rope is needed for forming a halter, 
 or for noosing a fore-leg. For lifting up a hind- 
 leg, all that we require is a stout cord for the 
 tail, and a stirrup-iron and leather, with which 
 to make a hobble (see Fig, 34, page 144"). For 
 driving on foot, we would, of course, want a heavy 
 smooth snaffle. I need hardly say, that a person 
 who wished to go in thoroughly for breaking, 
 ought to provide himself with a driving-pad, or 
 pair of cross-trees, specially made (see Figs. 40 
 and 41, page 168). Either of these could be 
 made for five-and-twenty shillings. The strait- 
 jacket (see Fig. 25, page 122) is not a necessity. 
 
 T 
 
274 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 COPIES OF TESTIMONIALS, ETC., RECEIVED FROM MEMBERS OF 
 CAPTAIN HAYES' CLASSES. 
 
 " BOMBAY, 2nd February, 1887. 
 " To 
 
 "CAPTAIN M. H. HAYES, 
 
 " Great Western Hotel. 
 
 " DEAR SIR, I am happy to inform you that the mare you 
 broke for me to riding in September, 1885, still goes quietly. She 
 has not given me any trouble at all since that day. Even when 
 she had not had a saddle on for months, she gave no trouble. As 
 she could not be made to move an inch under the saddle by whip, 
 or spur, or coaxing, before you tried your hand on her, and as you 
 spent only twenty minutes' time on her, I think she is a good 
 proof of the value of your system. 
 
 " Yours truly, 
 
 "GEO. A. KlTTREDGE. 
 
 " Managing Director, Bombay Tramways Company" 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 275 
 
 Copy of Testimonial from Captain Hayes' Trimulgherry Class. 
 TRIMULGHERRY, DECCAN, %th November, 885. 
 
 " We, the undersigned, having on several occasions witnessed 
 Captain Hayes' method of breaking all sorts of horses, have much 
 pleasure in recording our appreciation of its merits. This system 
 of breaking the most nervous or vicious animals is, in our opinion, 
 except with those suffering from some form of disease, invariably 
 efficacious. In addition to the breaking in, Captain Hayes has 
 shewn us many new and very useful points connected with the 
 management of horses. The system is very cheap at the 
 money : 
 
 " C. F. MORTON, COLONEL, 14/72 
 
 Hussars. 
 A. J. ENGLISH, CAPTAIN, 14/72 
 
 Hussars. 
 A. H. WADDEL, V. S., itfA 
 
 Hussars. 
 T. GRAHAM, RIDING MASTER, 
 
 14/72 Hussars. 
 G. HAMILTON, CAPTAIN, 14/72 
 
 Hussars. 
 C. E. SKYRING HEMERY, LIEUT., 
 
 Hus- 
 
 14/72 Hussars. 
 STUART ROBERTSON, LIEUT., 
 
 14/72 Hussars. 
 R GARTH, MAJOR, 
 
 sars. 
 L. J. RICHARDSON, LIEUT., 
 
 Hussars. 
 F. J. NORMAN, LIEUT., 
 
 Hussars. 
 H. W. MITCHELL, LIEUT. , 14/72 
 
 Hussars. 
 
 A. C. KING, CAPTAIN, 14/72 
 
 Hussars. 
 GEO. H. GOUGH, BT., LT.-COL., 
 
 14/72 Hussars. 
 T. MILLER, LIEUTENANT, 14/72 
 
 Hussars. 
 LOFTUS THACKWELL, CAPT., R. 
 
 Fs., i^th Hussars. 
 F. MUGFORD, Q.M.y 14/72 Hus- 
 sars. 
 GEO. H. ARBUTHNOT, LIEUT., 
 
 yd M. L. C. 
 F. C. LOGAN-HOME, LIEUT., 
 
 ydM. L. C. 
 J. VANS AGNEW, LIEUT., yd 
 
 M. L. C. 
 C. J. O. FITZGERALD, LT.-COL., 
 
 yd Cavalry, H. C. 
 A. J. GARREIT, A. A. G., H. C. 
 E. NICOLLS, LIEUT., R. A." 
 
 T 2 
 
276 APPENDIX. 
 
 The "Pioneer? i8/^ November, 1885. 
 
 CAPTAIN HAYES' HORSE-BREAKING. 
 
 To THE EDITOR OF THE " PIONEER." 
 
 SIR, Captain Hayes is shortly going from this to the Bengal 
 Presidency, and as during his stay he has taught his system of 
 breaking in all sorts of nervous and vicious horses to a large 
 number of people (and horses) here, I shall be much obliged if 
 you can find room in the Pioneer for this (and I am but endorsing 
 the opinion of many) my testimony to the excellence of his system. 
 It is most easily acquired, and has only to be seen to be 
 appreciated. His simple method of compelling a refractory 
 horse to enter a railway-box is, in my opinion, alone worth all the 
 money asked for the whole system. 
 
 DECCAN. C. F. MORTON, Colonel. 
 
 Hussars. 
 
 Copy of Testimonial from Members of Captain Hayes' Calcutta 
 
 Class. 
 
 We, the undersigned, having attended a series of lectures con- 
 ducted by Captain Hayes on the theory and practice of horse- 
 breaking, hereby certify that Captain Hayes has completely suc- 
 ceeded in all that he promised to effect. We have seen him cure 
 confirmed buck-jumpers and jibbers, so that they were quietly 
 ridden and driven round the school ; also savage or nervous 
 horses have speedily been reduced to quietness and obedience. 
 All this had been effected without violence or cruelty. His system 
 appears to us admirable : 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 277 
 
 F. B. 
 C. S. 
 
 PEACOCK,^ 
 
 CHARLES H. MOORE, 
 
 Stewards, 
 Calcutta 
 
 W. F. MCDONELL, Turf 
 V. C 1 ., Club. 
 
 J. J. J. KESWICK, 
 
 H. S. CUNNINGHAM, High 
 Court, Calcutta. 
 
 J. LAMBERT, Deputy Commis- 
 sioner of Police. 
 
 F. W. PERMAN. 
 
 S. W. ANDERSON. 
 
 H. B. BEAMES. 
 
 FRANCIS J. E. SPRING. 
 
 A. MILTON. 
 
 T. PALMER. 
 
 W. D. KILBURN. 
 
 P. L. RICHARDS. 
 
 H. K. GORDON, 
 
 THOS. BRAE. 
 
 R. JOHN CHARLTON. 
 
 F. HILTON. 
 
 J. LAUTER, V. S. 
 
 J. G. APCAR. 
 
 F. AlTCHISON. 
 
 J. POSFORD, C. S. 
 
 C. GRAF. 
 
 J. D. EDWARDS, A. V. D. 
 
 S. A. APCAR. 
 
 F. J. ROWE. 
 
 WM. MACKLIN, 
 
 A. WILLSON. 
 
 GOPEE NAUTH ROY. 
 
 THOS. R. PRATT. 
 
 L. P. D. BROUGHTON, Barrister- 
 at-Law. 
 
 ALEX. CAMPBELL. 
 
 WM. DUFF BRUCE. 
 
 A. T. RAWLINSON. 
 
 LATHAM HAMILTON. 
 
 J. J. REID, M. D. 
 
 FRANK WHITNEY. 
 
 J. HARD. 
 
 H. ST. A. GOODRICH. 
 
 S. KEITH DOUGLAS. 
 
 J. G. DICKSON. 
 
 GEO. EVANS GORDON. 
 
 GEO. CHEETHAM. 
 
 A. J. S. DOUGLAS. 
 
 CHAS. L. JOHNSTONE. 
 
 J. D. WEST. 
 
 H. PAGET. 
 
 ARTHUR J, C. FORBES. 
 
 KIL. EULER. 
 
 ROBERT PHILIP HEILGERS. 
 
 J. A. ANDERSON. 
 
 G. WENSE. 
 
 CHARLES BROCK. 
 
 A. R. MACINTOSH. 
 
 C. DEAS. 
 
 H. R. MclNNES. 
 
 J. R. MAPLES, Manager, Cal- 
 cutta Tramways Co. 
 
 JOHN CROFT. 
 
 R. A. TURNBULL, M.R.C. V.S. 
 
 R. HARDIE. 
 
2 78 APPENDIX. 
 
 J. A. BOURDILLON, C. S. 
 
 W. H. EGERTON. 
 
 H. MELVILL, Bo. S. C. 
 
 W. M. BERESFORD. 
 
 R. E. S. THOMAS. ' _ 
 
 . _ _ F. C. BARNES. 
 
 WM. CHARLES Fox. CCIL RAWLINSON> CAPTAIN? 
 
 THOMAS A. APCAR. 
 
 C. B. JOURDAIN. 
 
 J. LEPPOC CAPPEL, C. S. 
 A. L. MCDONELL. 
 
 T. A. ST. QUINTON, Major, 
 i o>th Hussars. 
 
 O. DlGNUM. 
 
 R. C. ONSLOW, \&thB. Lancers. 
 
 R DE C H> HELBERT, R. W., 
 
 Fusiliers. 
 E. V. WESTMACOTT, C. S." 
 
 11 Indian Planters' Gazette? gth March, 1886. 
 
 " Regarding a most determined jibber cured by Captain Hayes 
 at Mozufferpore, Mr. Tom Barclay of Bhicanpore writes us as 
 follows : ' I have driven him daily, or rather Colonel Fergus 
 Graham, who has been staying here, has driven him daily for 
 miles, stopping at different places, and starting again, and we have 
 never had any trouble. He trots nicely, and in fact goes as kindly 
 as the most perfect trap horse ever foaled. Captain Hayes may 
 congratulate himself on curing the most vicious, inveterate jibber 
 in India. I tried to sell him in Calcutta for Rs.5oo, and no one 
 would look at him. Now I would not take Rs. 1,500, for he is as 
 fine a trapper as there is in the country.' " 
 
 Copy of Testimonial from Captain Hayes 1 Lucknow Class. 
 
 " We, the undersigned, wish to place on record our appreciation 
 of Captain M. H. Hayes' methods of breaking horses of all kinds. 
 The methods are various, and are applicable to all sorts of un- 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 279 
 
 broken or refractory horses ; most simple in application, and 
 thoroughly efficacious. Some of the subjects submitted to Captain 
 Hayes to test his methods, were as follows : 
 
 " A chestnut waler of E-A., R. H. A., would not allow itself 
 to be mounted, being most violent if mounting it were attempted, 
 in a short time allowed any one to mount and dismount. 
 
 " An unbroken remount and bad buck-jumper of iyth Lancers, 
 in the course of two hours, became quiet to ride and perfectly 
 tractable. Ample proof was afforded of the complete control that 
 could be quickly gained over any horse. A stubborn refuser of 
 the 8th B. C. very soon took a delight in jumping ; and a con- 
 firmed jibber of the iyth Lancers was glad in a short time to move 
 in any direction asked. These few instances we consider convinc- 
 ing proof of the great power of Captain Hayes' system : 
 
 "T. A. COOKE, Lt-Col, \ith 
 Lancers. 
 
 B. P. PORTAL, i^th Lancers. 
 H. C. JENKINS, Copt., i^th 
 
 Lancers. 
 
 C. D'AGUILAR, \ith Lancers. 
 H. McGEE, Capt., 1*1 th Lancers. 
 S. M. BENSON, Major, i^th 
 
 Lancers. 
 
 C. COVENTRY, i*]th Lancers. 
 A. PORTER, Copt., B. S. C. 
 J. COOK, Bt. Lt.-Col.,A. A. G. 
 BARNARD SMITH, Lt-Col. 
 F. G. POLLOCK, 8/# B. C. 
 R. K.RIDGEWAY, Capt.,B.S. C. 
 W. P. HARRISON, Mbjor, 
 
 G. L. I. 
 
 G. L. EVANS, C. S. 
 
 G. R. G AMBIER, Major, & If. A. 
 
 H. ARCHDALE, Capt, R. W. 
 
 Fus. 
 
 H. CHAPMAN, Col., Wi B. C. 
 J. L. ABERIGH-MACKAY, Capt., 
 
 Wi B. C. 
 
 R. D. LOUDON, Capt., R. A. 
 S. D. BROWN, Lieut, R. H. A. 
 G. W. BIDDULPH, Lieut, 
 
 R.H.A. 
 
 A. H. HEWAT, Capt, JR. H. A. 
 P. C. B. PEMBERTON, Cot, R. . 
 H. STEVENSON, H. L. L 
 CHARSLEY THOMAS, Lt-Col" 
 
280 APPENDIX. 
 
 Copy of Report by the Director, Army Remount Operations 
 for 'India. 
 
 11 Captain Hayes visited the Saharanpore Army Reserve 
 Remount Depot on the i6th and iyth of April, 1886, and gave 
 some lectures on horse-breaking, as well as proving by practical 
 demonstration his power of curing horses of nervousness, and 
 rendering them easy to handle. He first of all operated on a bay 
 waler gelding that had only recently arrived from Australia in 
 February last, and would not allow himself to be handled or 
 approached for treatment in hospital. 
 
 " In five hours after making him over to him, he was saddled 
 and bridled, and ridden round the school by a Depot Riding-boy. 
 
 "A brown waler mare, which had been five months in the 
 Depot and would not allow herself to be snaffled or handled in 
 any way, was then taken in hand, and in five hours was able 
 to be saddled, bridled, and ridden about by Captain Hayes' 
 Assistant * Ted.' 
 
 " I am of opinion, and so were those who witnessed his mode 
 of breaking a horse of obstinacy, nervousness, vice, &c., that the 
 treatment he showed us will be a valuable adjunct to those who 
 have executive work to do in Remount Depots. 
 
 " BEN. WILLIAMS, Colonel. 
 " Director, Army Remount Operations for India" 
 SAHARANPORE, 2oth April, 1886. 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 281 
 
 Copy of Testimonial from Colonel Truman and Officers, 
 *jth Dragoon Guards. 
 
 "Mnow, CENTRAL INDIA, 2ist January, 1887. 
 
 " Having attended one of Captain Hayes' Classes of Instruction 
 in horse-breaking here, we have much pleasure in testifying to the 
 excellence of the system adopted by him : 
 
 W. R. TRUMAN, Lr.-CoL., ith 
 Dragoon Guards. 
 
 J. H. BANKS, MAJOR, ith Dra- 
 goon Guards. 
 
 U. G. C. DE BURGH, CAPT., *]th 
 Dragoon Guards. 
 
 D. MACDOUGAL, CAPT., ^th 
 Dragoon Guards. 
 
 C. W. THOMPSON, LIEUT., *]th 
 Dragoon Guards. 
 
 L. A. BROOKS, LIEUT., ^th Dra- 
 goon Guards. 
 
 H. S. FOLLETT, LIEUT., 7/// 
 Dragoon Guards. 
 
 B. R. DIETZ, LIEUT., ^th Dra- 
 goon Guards. 
 
 W. E. DANBY, LIEUT., ^th Dra- 
 goon Guards. 
 
 R. COOPER, LIEUT., ^th Dragoon 
 Guards, 
 
 W. D. DAUNT, LIEUT., *]th Dra- 
 goon Guards" 
 
 The Calcutta "Englishman" February 19, 1886. 
 
 " To the Editor. 
 
 " SIR, In the interests of humanity and in justice to Captain 
 Hayes, who has so successfully introduced his system of taming 
 vicious horses in Calcutta, I hope you will give publicity to the 
 following case of the complete cure of a terribly vicious horse 
 belonging to this company. The horse in question is a roan 
 Kabulee, which has been in our possession, and worked well in a 
 car for over two years, but was so savage that no European could 
 
282 APPENDIX. 
 
 approach him either in or out of his stall. Any attempt to go 
 near him was always met by vigorous striking with his fore feet 
 and biting, generally followed by a rush at the person nearest to 
 him, and an endeavour to get his fore legs over the man's head. 
 He was always dangerous, on one occasion having savaged off 
 a syce's hand, and at another time he took off a man's finger in 
 one vicious snap. On Tuesday afternoon last I took him to 
 Captain Hayes, who, in about an hour, completely cured him, and 
 this without punishment or cruelty of any kind. Two simple, 
 but ingenious contrivances were used, which, without hurting him 
 in any way, prevented him from doing any mischief to those 
 approaching him, and after a few minutes, handling by Captain 
 Hayes, he was pronounced cured, and I was agreeably surprised 
 to find that, on the removal of his gear, he was not only quiet but 
 safe. I must confess to some scepticism at first, as to the 
 performance of the cure, but both yesterday and to-day he is 
 perfectly quiet and tame, and will not only allow Europeans to 
 approach and handle him, but will follow them about the yard 
 when loose. Captain Hayes has clearly demonstrated that jibbers, 
 kickers, buck-jumpers, and extremely nervous horses, can all be 
 cured without even being touched by the whip. 
 
 " JNO. R. MAPLES. 
 " Managing Agent, Calcutta Tramways Company" 
 
 Copy of Testimonial from class held in the Royal Artillery Riding 
 School, Woolwich . 
 
 "WOOLWICH, August, 1887. 
 
 "We, the undersigned, having been through a course of 
 Practical Instruction in Lectures given by Captain Hayes on 
 his system of Breaking, Mouthing Horses, and curing them of 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 283 
 
 bad habits, &c., have great pleasure in certifying that we have 
 gained much valuable practical knowledge. Captain Hayes gives 
 such excellent reasons for all he does, that he infuses confidence 
 into those he instructs. With practice any one may use his 
 various methods with the probability of arriving at as great 
 success as himself in the management of horses : 
 
 "S. PARR LYNES, Col Supt. 
 
 Riding Estab., R.A. 
 H. H. CROOKENDEN, Major> 
 
 R.A. 
 
 H. B. JEFFREYS, Capt. R.H.A- 
 C. H. VORES, Lieut. R.H.A. 
 H. MCLAUGHLIN, Capt. R.A. 
 
 H. ROUSE, Lieut. R.A. 
 
 H. L. POWELL, Lieut. R.A. 
 
 CHARLES D. GUINNESS, Lieut. 
 
 R.H.A. 
 
 J. ST. L. WHEBLE, Capt. R.A. 
 G. McMiCKiNG, Lieut. R.H.A. 
 HECTOR COREYN, Lieut. R.A." 
 
INDEX. 
 
 AGGRESSIVENESS, 242 
 Association of ideas, 12 
 
 BALL, DIFFICULT TO, 223 
 
 Banham, Mr., 86 
 
 Banks and ditches, 187 
 
 Bars of the mouth, 46, 65 
 
 Baucher, 56 
 
 Bearing-reins, 55 
 
 Begging, 259 
 
 Bending the neck to the rein, 49 
 
 Biting, 242 
 
 Blew, Mr., 74 
 
 Blindfolding, 107 
 
 Boring, 216 
 
 Bowing, 260 
 
 Boy, 10 
 
 Bridle, difficult to, 112, 223 
 
 Bridle, suitability of horse to the, 46 
 
 Bridle twitch, 118 
 
 Bridling horse for first time, 171 
 
 Buck-jumpers, 203, 222 
 
 'Bus horse, 12 
 
 CAPPED KNEE, 101 
 Carrying head and neck, 44 
 Cart horses, 12 
 Catch, difficult to, 251 
 
 Causes of faults, 2 
 Chance of doing wrong, 23 
 " Chancing " fences, 230 
 Chucking up the head, 217 
 Circling, 172, 260 
 Coercion, 23 
 Collar, 42 
 
 Comanche bridle, 262, 263 
 Coming up to call, 261 
 Control, horse, 77 
 Cowkicking, 105 
 Cruiser, 17 
 
 Crupper leading-rein, 148 
 Curbs, 68 
 
 DEFEATS, 20 
 
 Defence, 60 
 
 Deliberate vice, 3 
 
 Difficult to ball, 223 
 bridle, 112 
 
 catch, 251 
 
 dismount from, 223 
 
 drench, 223 
 
 handle, 223 
 
 harness, 233 
 
 mount, 10, 12, 223 
 
 put into train, 225 
 
 shoe, 225 
 
286 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Difficult to unharness, 235 
 Direction of pull of the reins, 50 
 Dismount from, difficult to, 223 
 Docile, rendering horses, 147 
 Dogs, 28 
 Doing wrong, not getting a chance 
 
 of, 23 
 Double hitch Buonaparte bridle, 
 
 114 
 
 Double sheet-bend, 136 
 Drench, difficult to, 223 
 Driving newly-broken horse, 247 
 Driving pad, 166 
 Dumb jockeys, 69 
 " Dwelling " on his stride, 5 1 
 
 ELASTIC REINS, 69 
 
 Esa, Mr., 118 
 
 Expedition in breaking, 33 
 
 FATIGUE, 25 
 Fanchion, 114, 151 
 Fence, riding at a, 59 
 Fences, running out at, 231 
 
 , rushing at, 232 
 Field, the, 256 
 Fighting the horse, 37 
 Finish of a race, 5 1 
 Fire, unsteady under, 226 
 First step, 32 
 Fixing hind quarters, 60 
 Following, 261 
 Foreleg, holding up, 96 
 
 , lifting up, 93, 94, 96 
 
 , taking up, 88 
 
 , tying up, 99, 102 
 Frasier, Mr., 113 
 
 GAGGING A HORSE, 143 
 
 Gag, wooden, 145 
 
 Gateacre, Colonel, 143 
 
 " Game," nervous horses not, 6 
 
 Gear, improvised, 272 
 
 Gentling hind leg, 135 
 
 Gentling neck, 81,88 
 
 Gentling the horse, 1 5 1 
 
 Going level, 5 1 
 
 Good hands, 65 
 
 Good mouth chief requirement, 30 
 
 Groom, 28, 29 
 
 Ground, keeping horse on the, 157 
 
 HALTERING, PRATT'S METHOD 
 
 OF, 86 
 
 Halter, rope, 78 
 Halter twitch, 108 
 Haltering loose horse, 80 
 Hamilton, 153 
 Hands, good, 65 
 Handle, difficult to, 223 
 Hanging against the pole, 236 
 
 on the headstall, 251 
 Handkerchief, picking up a, 268 
 Hard pulling, 66 
 Harness, breaking to, 212 
 
 , difficult to, 233 
 
 , faults in, 233 
 
 , lying down in, 240 
 
 , plunging when starting in, 
 
 241 
 
 Head and neck, carrying the, 44 
 Head and tail, tying the, 197, 206 
 Head, chucking up the, 217 
 
 , position of the, 66 
 Headstall, hanging on the, 251 
 Headstall twitch, 117, 118 
 

 INDEX. 
 
 287 
 
 Hickman, Colonel, 74, 249 
 
 Hind-leg, gentling, 135 
 , lifting up, 126, 135 
 
 Hind-quarters, fixing, 60 
 
 Hippo-lasso, 119 
 
 Hobble, improvising a, 143 
 
 Holding horse down, 165 
 
 Holding up fore-leg, 96 
 
 Horse-breaking, object of, I 
 , scope of, 14 
 , value of, 14 
 
 Horse-control, 77 
 
 How it is done, 32 
 
 IDIOCY, 21 
 
 Improvised gear, 272 
 
 Instinct, 7 
 
 Intelligence of the horse, 9 
 
 JIBBING, 18, 19, 60, 227, 236 
 Jump, teaching to, 188 
 Jumping faults, 230 
 Jumping over another horse, 261 
 Jumping too slowly, 230 
 
 KEEPING A HORSE ON THE 
 
 GROUND, 157 
 Kemp, Mr., 217 
 Kicker, touching a, 7 
 Kicking, 238, 244, 252 
 Kicking at night, 252 
 Kicking from nervousness, 4 
 Kindness, 36 
 Kissing, 265 
 
 LADIES' HORSES, BREAKING, 209 
 Laughing, 265 
 Leach, Mr., 96 
 
 Leading-rein, crupper, 148 
 Leg, outward, 56 
 Leg strap, Rarey's, 99 
 , stirrup leather, 105 
 Lie down, making a horse, 153 
 Lifting up fore-leg, 93, 94, 96 
 
 hind-leg, 126 
 Linguist, 10 
 
 Litter, pawing back the, 256 
 Log for jumping, 188 
 Loose horse, haltering, 80 
 Lunging, 64 
 Lying down, 265 
 Lying down in harness, 240 
 
 MAGNER, 151, 218 
 Making horse lie down, 153 
 Manners, testing, 27 1 
 Martingale, running, 52 
 , standing, 70 
 Mathematician, 10 
 Memory of the horse, 9 
 Mental qualities of the horse, 7 
 Methods of breaking, various, 29 
 Military exigencies, 34 
 
 riding, 52 
 Mitchell, Mr., 239 
 Moore, Mr. J. H., 174, 190, 249 
 Mount, difficult to, 12, 223 
 Mounting, Australian method, 204 
 
 horse for first time, 197 
 Mouth, 30 
 , faults of, 216 
 , testing, 271 
 Mouthing gear, 166 
 , on foot, 172 
 , principles of, 41 
 Mouth-piece, action of, 47 
 
288 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Muscles of the neck, 44, 45 
 Mutton fist, 67 
 
 NECK, GENTLING, 8 1, 88 
 Neck muscles, 44, 45 
 Neck, scratching the, 81 
 Nervousness, 3, 18, 226 
 Newmarket, 65, 179 
 Night, kicking at, 252 
 , pawing at, 256 
 " No ! ", 266 
 Noosing fore-leg, 93 
 Nose-bands, 76 
 
 OBEYING THE REIN, 41 
 Obeying without reins, 265 
 Obey, making horse, 37 
 Object of horse-breaking, I 
 Ordinary method of breaking, 35 
 Outward leg, 56 
 
 PAD, DRIVING, 1 66 
 
 Pallin, Mr., 224, 256 
 
 Pawing at night, 256 
 
 Pawing back the litter, 256 
 
 Peat, General, 146 
 
 Permanency of breaking, 31, 35 
 
 Personal influence, 28 
 
 Petting horses, 10 
 
 Plunging when starting in harness, 
 
 241 
 Pole, gentling with the, 81 88, 93 
 
 , hanging against the, 236 
 
 , pulling away from the, 241 
 Polo, savaging at, 245 
 
 , shying off the ball at, 220 
 Possibility of overcoming any vice, 
 16 
 
 Pratt, Mr., 113, 151, 218 
 Pratt's method of haltering, 86 
 
 twitch, 113 
 Principle of rendering horses 
 
 docile, 38 
 Pulling, 66, 218 
 Pulling away from the pole, 241 
 
 successfully, 42 
 Punishment, 24 
 
 QUICK BREAKING, 33 
 
 Quiet to ride, 37 
 
 RAABE AND LUNEL, 119 
 
 Racing snaffle, thin, 69 
 
 Ranks, refusing to quit the, 229 
 
 Rarey, 15, 17 
 
 Rareyfying, 24 
 
 Rarey's leg strap, 99 
 
 Rawlins, Colonel, 93 
 
 Rearing, 60, 219 
 
 Reasoning, 8, 17 
 
 Refusing, 231 
 
 Rein-bearers, 171 
 
 Rein, getting tail over the, 235 
 
 Reining back, 63 
 
 Rein, obeying the, 41 
 
 Reins, 171 
 
 Reins, pull of the, 50 
 
 Rideable and driveable, 22 
 
 Riding newly-broken horse, 247 
 
 River, 13 
 
 Rockwell, Mr., 151, 267 
 
 Rope-halter, 78 
 
 Rope-twitch, 113 
 
 , advantages of, 112 
 Rough and ready method, 37 
 Rubbing the tail, 256 
 
INDEX. 
 
 289 
 
 Running martingale, 52 
 Running out at fences, 231 
 Running reins, 55 
 Rushing at fences, 232 
 
 SADDLING HORSE FOR FIRST TIME, 
 
 171 
 
 Salkeld, Colonel, 266 
 Sample, Professor, 19, 22, 190, 208, 
 
 267 
 
 Saunders, Mr., 102 
 Savage, young, 39 
 Savaging, 244 
 Savaging at polo, 245 
 Saving the mouth, 49, 50, 67, 68 
 Scope of breaking, 14 
 Scratching horse's neck, 81 
 See-sawing on a plank, 269 
 Self-preservation, 10 
 Shaking hands, 269 
 Shaking the head, 270 
 Sheet bend, double, 136 
 Shoe, difficult to, 225 
 Short tail, tying rope to, 143 
 Shying, 220 
 
 Shying off the ball at polo, 220 
 Side reins, 55 
 Sleeping standing, 258 
 Snaffles, 68 
 Spoiled horses, 34, 36 
 Sprinter bar, tying tail to, 240 
 Stable vices, 25 1 
 Standing behind breaker, 78 
 Standing martingale, 70 
 Stand still, making horse, 86 
 Stargazing, 53, 220 
 " Steady!", in 
 Stirrup leather for leg strap, 105 
 
 Strait jacket, 118 
 
 , throwing with the, 1 5 2 
 Striking out in front, 246 
 Stubbornness, 18 
 Suitability of horse to bridle, 47 
 Sulking, 158 
 Sulky horse, 24 
 Sword, unsteady with a, 220 
 
 TAIL OVER THE REIN, GETTING 
 THE, 235 
 
 Tail, rubbing the, 256 
 Tail, short, 143 
 
 to sprinter bar, tying, 240 
 with tape, tying, 257 
 Taking up fore-leg, 88 
 
 hind-leg, 126 
 Tape, tying tail with, 257 
 Teaching horses tricks, 10, 259 
 Temper, testing, 271 
 Tender mouthed, 220 
 Testing manners, 271 
 
 mouth, 271 
 
 temper, 271 
 Then and there, 36 
 Thin racing snaffle, 69 
 Throwing with strait jacket, 152 
 Tiring in the gallop, 5 1 
 Touched, nervous of being, 226 
 Touching a kicker, 7 
 Train, difficult to put into, 225 
 Turn, difficult to, 221 
 , teaching to, 56 
 Turning, 59 
 Twitch, bridle, 118 
 
 , headstall, 117, 118 
 
 , ordinary, 112, 113 
 
 , Pratt's, 113 
 
 U 
 
290 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Twitch, rope, 113 
 
 Tying up fore-leg, 99, 102 
 
 UNHARNESS, DIFFICULT TO, 235 
 
 VALUE OF BREAKING, 14 
 Various methods, 29 
 Vice, deliberate, 3 
 Vice in the horse, 3 
 Vices, 20 
 
 , stable, 251 
 Voice, 27 
 
 WALTZING, 270 
 Wardrop, Colonel, 74, 182 
 Whip, undue fear of, 241 
 
 , unsteady with the, 226 
 White's Veterinary Art, 54 
 Without reins, obeying, 267 
 
 "YAWING," 221 
 " Yes," 270 
 
 Yield, making the horse, 1 1 
 Young horses, 43 
 savage, 39 
 
 LONDON: PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED, 
 STAMFORD S-TREET AND CHARING CROSS. 
 
CAPT. M. H HAYES' 
 
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Capt. Hayes Books on Horses. 
 
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Capt. Hayes Books on Horses. 
 
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 1. Denizens of the Jungles. Ab^ri- 
 
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 Illustrated Lon ion News. 
 
 17 
 
TH ACKER, SPINK & CO., CALCUTTA. 
 
 GAME, SHORE, 
 
 AND 
 
 WATER BIRDS 
 OF INDIA. 
 
 BY 
 
 COL. A. LE MESSURIER, 
 
 R.E. 
 
 121 
 
 ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 8vo, 15^. 
 
 A VADE ME- 
 CUM FOR THE 
 SPORTSMAN, 
 EMBRACING ALL THE 
 BIRDS AT ALL LIKELY TO 
 BE MET WITH IN A 
 SHOOTING EXCURSION. 
 
 "Compact in form, excellent in 
 method and arrangement, and, as far 
 as we have been able to test it, rigidly 
 accurate. ' ' Knowledge. 
 
 "Will be a source of great de- 
 light, as every ornithological detail is 
 given, in conjunction with the most 
 artistic and exquisite drawings." 
 Home News. 
 
 18 
 
W. TH ACKER & CO., LONDON. 
 
 " Splendidly Illustrated Record of Sport." Graphic. 
 Third Edition. Enlarged. Demy 4to. 36 Plates and Map. -2. 2s. 
 
 LARGE GAME SHOOTING 
 
 IN THIBET, THE HIMALAYAS, NORTHERN & CENTRAL INDIA, 
 BY BRIG.-GENERAL ALEX. A. A. KINLOCH. 
 
 Reduced size. 
 
 "Colonel Kinloch, who has killed most kinds of Indian game, small and 
 great, relates incidents of his varied sporting experiences in chapters, which are 
 each descriptive of a different animal. The photo-gravures of the heads of many 
 of the animals, from the grand gaur, popularly miscalled the bison, downwards, 
 are extremely clever and spirited." Times. 
 
 19 
 
 2 2 
 
TH ACKER, SPINK & CO., CALCUTTA. 
 
 New Edition, Demy 8vo, with all Original Illustrations. Rs. 7-8. 
 
 THE HIGHLANDS OF CENTRAL INDIA. 
 
 NOTES ON THEIR 
 
 |jomte anir llittr ffirihra, Natural pistes anfr 
 
 BY CAPT. J. FORSYTH, BENGAL STAFF CORPS. 
 
 WITH 
 
 ILLUSTRATIONS BY R. A. STERN DALE, F.Z.S., F.R.G.S. 
 
 In Demy folio, Thirty-nine Plates, Natural Size. 25^. 
 ILLUSTRATIONS OF THE 
 
 (BRASSES OF THE SOUTHERN PUNJAB 
 
 P{)0t0=lLit{)0(jtapf)8 of 00m of tjje 
 initjj 
 
 fount) at 
 
 BY WILLIAM COLDSTREAM, B.A., B.C.S, 
 20 
 
W. THACKER & CO., LONDON. 
 
 Fourth Edition, Crown 8vo, Buckram. 12 s. 6d. 
 
 VETERINARY 
 NOTES FOR HORSE-OWNERS. 
 
 An Illustrated Manual of Horse Medicine and Surgery % 
 written in Simple Language. 
 
 BY CAPT. M. H. HAYES, F.R.C.V.S. 
 
 " Captain Hayes' work is a valuable addition to 
 our stable literature ; and the illustrations, toler- 
 ably numerous, are excellent beyond the reach of 
 criticism." Saturday Review. 
 
 "The description of symptoms and proper 
 methods of treatment in sickness render the book 
 a necessary guide forhorseowners, especially those 
 who are far removed from immediate professional 
 assistance." The Times. 
 
 " Of the many popular veterinary books which 
 have come under our notice, this is certainly one 
 of the most scientific and reliable. If some pains- 
 taking student would give us works of equal merit 
 to this on the diseases of the other domestic 
 animals, we should possess a very complete 
 veterinary library in a very small compass." 
 Field. 
 
 ' ' Simplicity is one cf the most commendable 
 features in the book. What Captain Hayes has 
 to say he says in plain terms, and the book is a 
 very useful one for everybody who is concerned 
 with horses. ' ' Illustrated Sporting and Dramatic 
 News. 
 
 1 ' The usefulness of the manual is testified to by its popularity, and each edition 
 has given evidence of increasing care on the part of the author to render it more 
 complete and trustworthy as a book of reference for amateurs." The Lancet. 
 
 "A volume replete with most interesting information, couched in the simplest 
 terms possible." The County Gentleman. 
 
 "The book leaves nothing to be desired on the score of lucidity and comprehen- 
 siveness." Veterinary Journal. 
 
TH ACKER, SPINK & CO., CALCUTTA. 
 
 Square 8vo, los. 6d. 
 
 THE HORSEWOMAN 
 
 A PRACTICAL GUIDE TO SIDE-SADDLE RIDING. 
 
 BY MRS. HAYES. EDITED BY CAPTAIN M. H. HAYES. 
 
 With 4 Collotypes from Instantaneous Photographs^ and 48 Drawings 
 after Photographs, by J. H. OSWALD BROWN. 
 
 PRESS NOTICES. 
 
 The Times. " A large amount of sound, practical instruction, very judiciously 
 and pleasantly imparted." 
 
 The Field. "This is the first occasion on which a practical horseman and a 
 practical horsewoman have collaborated in bringing out a book on riding for 
 ladies. The result is in every way satisfactory, and, no matter how well a lady 
 
 22 
 
TH ACKER &> CO., LONDON. 
 
 THE HORSEWOMAN. 
 
 PRESS NOTICES. (Continued.} 
 
 may ride, she will gain much valuable information from a perusal of ' The Horse 
 woman.' The book is happily free from self-laudatory passages." 
 
 The AthencBum. ' ' We have seldom come across a brighter book than ' The Horse- 
 woman. ' 
 
 The Queen." A most useful and practical book on side-saddle riding, which 
 may be read with real interest by all lady riders." 
 
 Freeman's Journal (Dublin). "Mrs. Hayes is perhaps the best authority in 
 these countries on everything connected with horsemanship for ladies." 
 
 Scotsman (Edinburgh). "The work is the outcome of experiences, aptitudes, 
 and opportunities wholly exceptional." 
 
 Le Sport (Paris). " J'ai lu ou parcouru bien des traite*s d'e'quitation usuelle ou 
 savante ; jamais encore je n'avais trouve" un expose" aussi clair, aussi simple, aussi 
 ve"cu que celui ou Mme. Hayes resume les principes dont une pratique assidue lui 
 a permis d'appre"cier la valeur. Ce tres remarquable manuel d'equitation feminine 
 est bien, comme la desire son auteur, a la porte'e de tous et il est a souhaiter qu'il 
 trouve" en France 1'accueil et le succes qu'il a rencontre's des sa publication aupres des 
 horsewomen anglaises." 
 
 Saturday Review. "With a very strong recommendation of this book as far 
 and away the best guide to side-saddle riding that we have seen. " 
 
 The Queen. "It is a real pleasure to see a lady ride as Mrs. Hayes does ; she 
 combines in an unusual degree an absolutely firm, strong seat with a pretty and 
 graceful one. ' 
 
 Land and Water. "A more thorough horsewoman than Mrs. Hayes probably 
 does not exist." 
 
 Hearth and Home. "The Duke of Cambridge personally complimented her on 
 her seat and hands." 
 
 Indian Planters' Gazette (Calcutta). "The victory [in jumping competition] 
 was well earned. Mrs. Hayes treated the large crowd to an exhibition of horse- 
 manship, the like of which has seldom, if ever, been witnessed in Calcutta. The 
 merit of the performance is enhanced by the fact that she had never ridden the 
 mare before that day. " 
 
 The Mining Argus (Johannesburg, Transvaal). " Mrs. Hayes is undoubtedly 
 one of the pluckiest and most accomplished horsewomen we have ever seen." 
 
 North China Daily News (Shanghai). " This accomplished horsewoman prac- 
 tically illustrated, for the benefit of the ladies present, what she wrote in our 
 columns about riding without reins, even over stiff jumps, on a mount only broken 
 for a lady ten minutes before." 
 
 23 
 
TH ACKER, SPINK & CO., CALCUTTA. 
 
 Third Edition, Imperial i6mo. IO.T. 6d. 
 
 RIDING: 
 
 ON THE FLAT AND ACROSS COUNTRY. 
 
 & dmfoe to practical f^orgctnans^P* 
 BY CAPTAIN M. H. HAYES, F.R.C.V.S. 
 
 The Times. "Captain Hayes' hints and instructions are useful aids, even to 
 experienced riders, while for those less accustomed to the saddle, his instructions 
 are simply invaluable." 
 
 The Standard. " Captain Hayes is not only a master of his subject, but he 
 knows how to aid others in gaining such a mastery as may be obtained by the 
 study of a book." 
 
 The Field. "We are not in the least surprised that a third edition of this 
 useful and eminently practical book should be called for. On former occasions 
 we were able to speak of it in terms of commendation, and this edition is worthy of 
 equal praise." 
 
 Daily s Magazine. "An eminently practical teacher, whose theories are the 
 outcome of experience, learned not in the study, but on the road, in the hunting 
 field, and on the racecourse." 
 
 Sporting Times. "We heartily commend it to our readers." 
 
 Illustrated Sporting and Dramatic News. "The book is one that no man who 
 has ever sat in a saddle can fail to read with interest." 
 
 The Graphic. " Is as practical as Captain Horace Hayes' ' Veterinary Notes ' 
 and 'Guide to Horse Management in India." Greater praise than this it is impos- 
 sible to give." 
 
Uniform with " Riding," etc. 2is. 
 
 ILLUSTRATED HORSE-BREAKING 
 
 BY 
 
 Capt. M. H. HAYES. 
 
 1. Theory of Breaking. 
 
 2. Principles of Mounting. 
 
 3. Horse Control. 
 
 4. Rendering Docile. 
 
 5. Giving Good Mouths. 
 
 6. Teaching to Jump. 
 
 7. Mounting for First Time. 
 
 8. Breaking for Ladies' 
 
 Riding. 
 
 9. Breaking to Harness. 
 
 10. Faults of Mouth. 
 
 11. Nervousness and Impa- 
 
 tience of Control. 
 
 12. Jibbing. 
 
 13. Jumping Faults. 
 
 14. Faults in Harness. 
 
 15. Aggressiveness. 
 
 16. Riding and Driving 
 
 Newly-broken Horse. 
 
 17. Stable Vices. 
 
 1 8. Teaching Circus Tricks. 
 
 "The work is eminently prac- 
 tical and readable." Veterinary 
 Journal, 
 
 "Clearly explained in simple, 
 practical language, made all the 
 more clear by a set of capital 
 drawings." Scotsman. 
 
 "It is characteristic of all Captain Hayes' books on Horses that they are eminently 
 practical, and the present one is no exception to the rule. A work which is entitled to high 
 praise as being far and away the best reasoned-out book on Breaking under a new system 
 we have seen." Field. 
 
 WITH FIFTY-ONE ILLUSTRATIONS BY J. H. OSWALD BROWN. 
 
 25 
 
THACKER, SPINK & CO., CALCUTTA. 
 
 Foolscap 4 to, 34J. 
 
 THE POINTS OF THE HORSE, 
 
 & familiar treatise 0n iEqume Conformation. 
 BY CAPT. M. H. HAYES, F.R.C.V.S. 
 
 DESCRIBING THE POINTS IN WHICH THE 
 
 PERFECTION OF EACH CLASS 
 
 OF HORSES CONSISTS. 
 
 Illustrated by 76 reproductions of Photographs of Typical Horses, 
 and 204 Drawings, chiefly by J. H. OSWALD BROWN. 
 
 26 
 
W. TH ACKER & CO., LONDON. 
 
 THE POINTS OF THE HORSE. 
 
 Times. "An elaborate 
 and instructive compendium 
 of sound knowledge on a 
 subject of great moment 
 to all owners of horses, 
 by a writer of established 
 authority on all matters 
 connected with the horse." 
 
 Army and Navy Gazette. 
 " It is scientific in its 
 method, and practical in 
 its purpose." 
 
 Nature. "A soldier, a 
 certificated veterinarian, a 
 traveller and a successful 
 rider, the author is well 
 qualified to treat on all that pertains to the subject before us." 
 
 The Referee. "What Captain Hayes does not know about horses is probably 
 not particularly worth knowing." 
 
 Saturday Review. "This is another of Captain Hayes' good books on the 
 horse, and to say it is the best would not be going far out of the way of truth. It 
 is a luxurious book, well got up, well and clearly printed in large readable type and 
 profusely illustrated. " 
 
 Pall Mall Btidget. " A volume that must be regarded as the standard work on 
 the subject. It is well done. No point is left unexplained ; no quality in a type 
 unnoticed." 
 
 Sporting Times. " The best production of its kind we have seen." 
 
 Field. "To those who are desirous of availing themselves of the knowledge of 
 a writer who has been used to horses all his life, the book may be cordially recom- 
 mended." 
 
 Veterinary Journal. "No book like this has hitherto appeared in English, or 
 any other language. For giving us such a beautiful, interesting and instructive 
 book, the members of the veterinary profession, horsemen and horse owners, as 
 well as delineators of the horse, in every English speaking country must acknow- 
 ledge themselves deeply indebted to Captain Hayes," 
 
TH ACKER, SPINK <^ CO., CALCUTTA. 
 
 In Imperial i6mo. Illustrated. Ss. 6d. 
 
 INDIAN 
 
 RACING REMINISCENCES: 
 
 BEING 
 
 ENTERTAINING NARRATIVES AND ANECDOTES 
 OF MEN, HORSES, AND SPORT. 
 
 Illustrated with Twenty-Two Portraits and a Number of Smaller Engravings, 
 BY CAPTAIN M. HORACE HAYES. 
 
 " The book is full of racy anecdote, and the author writes so kindly of his brother officers 
 and the sporting planters with whom he came into contact, that one cannot help admiring 
 the genial and happy temperament of the author." Bell's Life. 
 
 " Captain Hayes shows himself a thorough master of his subject, and has so skilfully 
 interwoven technicalities, history, and anecdote, that the last page comes all too soon." Field. 
 
 Fifth Edition. Revised. Crown 8vo. 95. 
 
 TRAINING ft HORSE MANAGEMENT 
 
 IN INDIA. 
 
 BY CAPTAIN M. HORACE HAYES, F.R.C.V.S. 
 
 " No better guide could be placed in the hands of either amateur horseman or veterinary 
 surgeon." The Veterinary Journal. 
 
 "A useful guide in regard to horses anywhere. Concise, practical, and portable," 
 Saturday Review. 
 
 28 
 
W. TH ACKER & CO., LONDON. 
 
 Crown 8vo. Uniform with " Veterinary Notes." 8s. 6d. 
 
 SOUNDNESS AND AGE OF HORSES. 
 
 WITH ONE HUNDRED AND SEVENTY ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 A Complete Guide to all those features which require attention when purchasing 
 
 Horses, distinguishing mere defects from the symptoms of unsoundness ; with explicit 
 
 instructions how to conduct an examination of the various parts. 
 
 BY CAPTAIN M. H. HAYES, F.R.C.V.S. 
 
 " Captain Hayes is entitled to much credit for the explicit and sensible manner in which he 
 has discussed the many questions some of them extremely vexed ones which pertain to 
 soundness and unsoundness in horses." Veterinary Journal. 
 
 " Captain Hayes' work is evidently the result of much careful research, and the horseman, 
 as well as the veterinarian, will find in it much that is interesting and instructive." Field. 
 
 29 
 
TH ACKER, SPINK & CO,, CALCUTTA. 
 
 In Imperial i6mo. Uniform with " Lays of Ind," " Hindu Mythology," etc. 
 Handsomely bound. IQS. 6d. 
 
 RIDING FOR LADIES. 
 
 OTt'tf) in'nte on t&e Stable. 
 
 BY MRS. POWER O'DONOGHUE. 
 
 AUTHOR OF "LADIES ON HORSEBACK," "A BEGGAR ON HORSEBACK," etc. 
 
 With 91 Illustrations drawn expressly for the Work by A. Chantrey Corbould. 
 
 HIS able and beautiful 
 volume will form a Stan- 
 dard on the Subject, and 
 is one which no lady can 
 dispense with. The scope 
 of the work will be under- 
 stood by the following : 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 I. Ought Children to Ride? 
 
 II. " For Mothers & Children. ' ' 
 in. First Hints to a Learner. 
 IV. Selecting a Mount. 
 
 v. , vi. The Lady's Dress, 
 vn. Bitting. viii. Saddling. 
 IX. How to Sit, Canter, &c. 
 
 X. Reins, Voice, and Whip, 
 xi. Riding on the Road. 
 XII. Paces, Vices, and Faults. 
 
 XIII. A Lesson in Leaping. 
 
 XIV. Managing Refusers. 
 xv - Falling. 
 
 xvi. Hunting Outfit Considered, 
 xvii. Economy in Riding Dress. xx. Shoeing. xxi. Feeding, 
 
 xvm. Hacks and Hunters. XXII. Stabling, xxin. Doctoring, 
 
 xix. In the Hunting Field. xxiv. Breeding, xxv. "Tips." 
 
 " When there may arise differences of opinion as to some of the suggestions con- 
 tained in this volume, the reader, especially if a woman, may feel assured she will 
 not go far astray in accepting what is said by one of her own sex, who has the dis- 
 tinction of three times beating the Empress of Austria in the hunting field, from 
 whom she ' took the brush. ' ' Riding for Ladies ' is certain to become a classic. " 
 
 New York Sportsman. 
 
 30 
 
W. TH ACKER & CO., LONDON. 
 
 Crown 8vo. 75. 6d. 
 
 A TEA PLANTER'S LIFE IN ASSAM. 
 
 BY GEORGE M. BARKER. 
 WITH 75 ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 V%Wffe . .-... x <^> 
 
 ffiliferf* 
 
 This book aims at conveying to all interested in India and the tea industry an entertaining 
 and useful account of the topographical features of Assam ; the strange surroundings human 
 and animal of the European resident ; the trying climate ; the daily life of the planter ; and 
 general details of the formation and working of tea gardens. 
 
 " Mr. Barker has supplied us with a very good and readable description, accompanied by 
 numerous illustrations drawn by himself. What may be called the business parts of the book 
 are of most value." Contemporary Review. 
 
 " Cheery, well-written little book." Graphic. 
 
 "A very interesting and amusing book, artistically illustrated from sketches drawn by the 
 author." Mark Lane Express. 
 
 LIST OF THE TEA GARDENS OF INDIA AND CEYLON. 
 
 Their Acreage, Managers, Assistants, Calcutta Agents, Coolie Depots, Proprietors, 
 Companies, Directors, Capital, London Agents and Factory Marks, by which 
 any chest may be identified. Also embraces Coffee. Indigo, Silk, Sugar, 
 Cinchona, Lac, Cardamom and other Concerns. 8vo. Sewed. 6s. 
 
 1 ' The strong point of the book is the reproduction of the factory marks, which are presented 
 side by side with the letterpress. To buyers of tea and other Indian products on this side, 
 the work needs no recommendation." British Trade Journal. 
 
 31 
 
TH ACKER, SPINK &> CO., CALCUTTA. 
 
 Crown 8vo. 7^. 6d. 
 
 THE INDIGO MANUFACTURER. 
 
 % f radical anb 
 
 FROM THE RECEIPT OF THE PLANT TO THE PRODUCTION 
 OF THE CAKE; 
 
 With numerous EXPERIMENTS Illustrating the Scientific Principles bearing on 
 each Phase of the Manufacture. 
 
 BY J. BRIDGES-LEE, M.A., F.C.S., F.Z.S., F.R.A.S. Bengal, etc., etc. 
 
 ' ' It enlightens us on a matter about which our knowledge till now has been 
 highly barren and uncertain the technicalities of the winning of the Indigo from 
 its Indian home. Each operation which the Indigc has to undergo before its 
 perfection has a separate chapter. At the end of each, experiments are described 
 which are to serve this purpose, so that the object for which the pourtrayed opera- 
 tion is given is made clear and put in a right light." Chemiker Zeitung (Trans- 
 lated). 
 
 In Crown 8vo. js. 6d. 
 
 THE CULTURE AND 
 MANUFACTURE OF INDIGO 
 
 WITH DESCRIPTION OF A PLANTER'S LIFE AND RESOURCES. 
 
 BY W. M. REID. 
 
 WITH NINETEEN ILLUSTRATIONS BY THE AUTHOR. 
 
 "A concise and readable manual, not only of everything relating to the industry, 
 
 but of the whole round of business and recreation that makes up the Planter's life. 
 
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 reading these bright pages one almost feels competent to take full charge of a 
 
 ' concern.' " Englishman. 
 
 32 
 
W. TH ACKER 6- CO., LONDON. 
 
 Uniform with " Lays of Ind,' " Riding," etc. ics. 6d. 
 
 HINDU 
 
 MYTHOLOGY: 
 
 VEDIC AND PORANIC. 
 
 BY 
 
 REV. W. J. W ILK INS, 
 
 OF THE LONDON MISSIONARY 
 SOCIETY, CALCUTTA. 
 
 Illustrated by One Hundred Engravings 
 chiefly from Drawings by Native Artists 
 
 REVIEWS. 
 
 " His aim has been to give a faithful account of the Hindu deities such as an 
 intelligent native would himself give, and he has endeavoured, in order to achieve 
 his purpose, to keep his mind free from prejudice or theological bias. To help to 
 completeness he has included a number of drawings of the principal deities, executed 
 by native artists. The author has attempted a work of no little ambition and has 
 succeeded in his attempt, the volume being one of great interest and usefulness ; 
 and not the less so because he has strictly refrained from diluting his facts with 
 comments of his own. It has numerous illustrations." Home News. 
 
 " Mr. Wilkins has done his work well, with an honest desire to state facts apart 
 from all theological prepossession, and his volume is likely to be a useful book of 
 reference. ' ' Guardian. 
 
 " In Mr. Wilkins' book we have an illustrated manual, the study of which will lay 
 a solid foundation for more advanced knowledge, while it will furnish those who 
 may have the desire without having the time or opportunity to go further into the 
 subject, with a really extensive stock of accurate information." Indian Daily News. 
 
TH ACKER & CO., LONDON. 
 
 300 Illustrations. Imperial i6mo. 12.?. 6d. 
 
 A HANDBOOK OF INDIAN FERNS. 
 
 BY COLONEL R. H. BEDDOME, F.L.S., 
 
 Late Conservator of Forests, Madras. 
 
 " It is the first special book of portable 
 size and moderate price which has been 
 devoted to Indian Ferns, and is in every 
 way deserving of the extensive circulation 
 it is sure to obtain. " Nature. 
 
 " I have just seen a new work on Indian 
 Ferns which will prove vastly interesting, 
 not only to the Indian people, but to the 
 botanists of this country." Indian Daily 
 News. 
 
 ' ' The ' Ferns of India. ' This is a good 
 book, being of a useful and trustworthy 
 character. The species are familiarly de- 
 scribed, and most of them illustrated by 
 small figures." Gardeners' Chronicle. 
 
 ' ' Those interested in botany will do well 
 to procure a new work on the ' Ferns of 
 British India.' The work will prove a 
 first-class text book." Free Press. 
 
 3-r. 
 
 SUPPLEMENT to the FERNS OF BRITISH INDIA, etc. 
 
 BY COLONEL R. H. BEDDOME. 
 
 Containing Ferns which have been discovered since the publication of 
 " The Handbook to the Ferns of British India," etc. 
 
 NEARLY READY. 
 
 HOW TO CHOOSE A DOG, & HOW TO SELECT A PUPPY. 
 
 TOGETHER WITH A FEW NOTES UPON THE PECULIARITIES 
 AND CHARACTERISTICS OF EACH BREED. 
 
 BY VERO SHAW, 
 
 Author of" The Illustrated Book of the Dog," late Kennel Editor of the " Field" 
 
 This small work will give in a brief, yet compendious form, the various Breeds 
 their Characteristics Points Average Weights at various Ages from six weeks 
 to full growth Points to look for in choosing average age at which the breed 
 arrives at maturity, etc. The book is prepared in response to the innumerable 
 inquiries showered upon the Author in his editorial capacity, and will form an 
 invaluable guide in the selection of Dogs, as well as an aide-memoir to all. 
 
Crown 8vo. Illustrated, fis. 5 ; Inter- 
 leaved, Rs. 5-8. 
 
 A TEXT BOOK 
 
 OF 
 
 INDIAN BOTANY 
 
 MORPHOLOGICAL, 
 
 PHYSIOLOGICAL, 
 
 and SYSTEMATIC. 
 
 BY W. H. GREGG, 
 
 LECTURER ON BOTANY, HUGHLI COLLEGE. 
 
 WITH 240 ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 Crown 8vo. 7^. 6d. Illustrated. 
 
 MANUAL OF 
 
 AGRICULTURE FOR INDIA, 
 
 BY LIEUT. F. POGSON. 
 
 1. Origin and Character of Soils. 2. Ploughing and Preparing for Seed. 
 3. Manures and Composts. 4. Wheat Cultivation. 5. Barley. 6. Oats. 
 7. Rye. 8. Rice. 9. Maize. 10. Sugar-producing Sorghums. 11. Common 
 Sorghums, 12. Sugarcane. 13, Oil Seed. 14. Field Pea Crops. 15, Ball 
 or Pulse. 16. Root Crops. 17, Cold Spice. 18. Fodder. 19. Water-Nut. 
 20, Ground-Nut. 21. Rush-Nut or Chufas. 22. Cotton. 23. Tobacco. 
 24, Mensuration. Appendix. 
 
 ^j^^^^^^^^ 
 
 "A work of extreme practical value." Home News. 
 
 "Mr. Pogson's advice may be profitably followed by both native and European 
 agriculturists, for it is eminently practical and devoid of empiricism. His little 
 volume embodies the teaching of a large and varied experience, and deserves to be 
 warmly supported. " Madras Mail. 
 
W. TH ACKER & CO., LONDON. 
 
 Fourth Edition, Imperial i6mo. 15^. Illustrated. 
 
 A MANUAL OF GARDENING 
 
 FOR 
 
 BENGAL AND UPPER INDIA. 
 
 BY THOMAS A. C. FIRMINGER, M.A. 
 
 THOROUGHLY REVISED AND BROUGHT DOWN TO THE PRESENT TIME BY 
 
 J. H. JACKSON, 
 
 Editor ct " The Indian Agriculturist." 
 
 PART I. 
 OPERATIONS OF GARDENING. 
 
 Chap. I. Climate Soils Manures. 
 
 Chap. II. Laying-out a Garden Lawns 
 Hedges Hoeing and Digging 
 Drainage Conservatories Betel 
 Houses Decorations Implements 
 Shades Labels Vermin Weeds. 
 
 Chap. III. Seeds Seed Sowing Pot 
 Culture Planting Cuttings Layers 
 Gootee Grafting and Inarching 
 Budding Pruning and Root Pruning 
 Conveyance. 
 
 Chap. IV. Calendar of Operations. 
 
 PART II. 
 
 GARDEN PLANTS. 
 
 1. Culinary Vegetables. 
 
 2. Dessert Fruits. 
 
 3. Edible Nuts. 
 
 4. Ornamental Annuals. 
 
 5. Ornamental Trees, Shrubs, 
 and Herbaceous Perennials. 
 
 Crown 8vo, cloth. J?s. 2-8. 
 
 THE AMATEUR GARDENER IN THE HILLS. 
 
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 WITH HINTS ON FOWLS, PIGEONS, AND RABBIT KEEPING ; 
 
 And various Recipes connected with the above subjects which are not commonly found in 
 
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TH ACKER, SPINK & CO., CALCUTTA. 
 
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