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 THE LIBRARY 
 
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 THE UNIVERSITY 
 
 OF CALIFORNIA 
 
 LOS ANGELES
 
 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA
 
 MAIOR CASAll,
 
 Tm YEARS m EQUATORIA 
 
 BT 
 
 MAJOR GAETANO CASATI 
 
 TRANSLATED FROM THE ORIGINAL ITALIAN MANUSCRIPT 
 
 The Hon. Mrs. J. RANDOLPH CLAY 
 
 ASSISTED BY 
 
 Me. I. WALTER SAVAGE LANDOR 
 
 WITH UPWARDS OF ONE HUNDRED AND FIFTY ILLUSTRATIONS 
 COLOURED PLATES AND FOUR MAPS 
 
 " We can only achieve wliat is most noble and great by modesty '" 
 
 St. Hieroxymus 
 
 POPULAR EDITION 
 
 LONDON 
 
 FREDERICK WARNE AND CO. 
 
 AND NEW YORK 
 
 1898 
 
 l^All Rights Heserved]
 
 vr 
 
 PREFACE 
 
 Major Gaetano Casati was born in the year 1838 
 at Lesmo, a cheerful little town in the region of 
 Brianza, where his father had practised for many 
 
 years as a doctor, 
 leaving behind him an 
 honourable memory, 
 both in his profession 
 and as a philan- 
 thropist. 
 
 In 1859, when the 
 third war against 
 Austria for Italian in- 
 dependence was de- 
 clared. Major Casati 
 entered the corps of 
 Bersaglieri, and after 
 his appointment to the 
 rank of Captain at 
 Ivrea, he went with 
 his battalion to the 
 Southern provinces of 
 
 CAPTAIN MAKFKEDO CAMPERIO. J^^J^^ whcr^C foUght 
 
 for eleven years against the brigands, who infested 
 those mountainsNx He was then appointed instructor 
 
 
 'Sk.^^4,
 
 vi PREFACE. 
 
 to the Normal School of the Bersaglieri, where he 
 remained for two years. After having served in the 
 fourth and last war against Austria, in 1866, he 
 became a member of the Topographic Department 
 of the Leghorn Institute, which was entrusted with 
 the construction of the ordnance maps of Italy, and, 
 later on, he brilliantly passed the examination re- 
 quired for the appointment of Major ; but Casati was 
 fostering another idea, and in 1879 he resigned his 
 commission. The entreaties of his colonel, and even 
 of the Minister of War, to induce him to withdraw 
 his resignation, were of no avail, and after leaving the 
 military service, he devoted himself entirely to the 
 study of geographical science, and became one of the 
 contributors to our publication called V Esploratore. 
 
 At that time we were receiving very stirring reports 
 from Gessi Pasha from the banks of the Bahr-el-Ghazal, 
 concerning his wonderful campaign against the rebel 
 slave traders under Solyman. Several young officers 
 presented themselves to us, asking to be sent out 
 there, when a private letter from the Pasha arrived, 
 containing the following words : 
 
 " Send me a young man, preferably an officer in the 
 Army, well acquainted with the art of drawing maps. 
 You will incur no expejise except the journey to 
 Khartoum ; and as the ( Rubattino Company have a 
 station at Suakim, you may obtain a reductiorl of the 
 fare. I will give orders at Khartoum for his journey 
 by the Nile steamers to Meshra-el-Pek on the Ghazal, 
 where I will sujDply him with arms, instruments, 
 escort, provisions, and carriers, in order that he may 
 proceed on a complete exploration of the Welle basin."
 
 PREFACE. vii 
 
 When I had finished reading the letter, which I 
 did aloud, as was my wont when I received one from 
 Gessi, I glanced at Casati, saying : — 
 
 " Well, captain, we must hasten to find a brave 
 young man, who is adapted for such a mission and 
 ready to start." 
 
 Casati, though he is exceedingly calm for an Italian, 
 looked much agitated, and turned pale ; his eyes 
 glistened with enthusiasm. 
 
 " Am I too old," said he, " for Gessi Pasha, or do 
 you think I am unfit ? " 
 
 " But you know that Africa," I replied, " is like the 
 beautiful Syren, who often kills her lovers. The life 
 you led while fighting against the brigands is nothing 
 in comparison to that of an African explorer. I will 
 not- hold myself responsible, as there have been too 
 many victims amongst our delegates already ; but if 
 you wish to go of your own free will, may God protect 
 you ! Indeed, I do not know any one so well endowed 
 as you are with all the qualities required for such an 
 enterprise, and the coolness which you possess is a 
 still more precious requisite than your bravery, of which 
 you have given us so many proofs. When can you be 
 ready for the journey ? '' 
 
 " To morrow." 
 
 " But you must wait till a Bubattino steamer starts 
 for Africa." 
 
 "Very well!" 
 
 And Captain Casati embarked at Genoa for Suakim, 
 on Christmas Eve, supplied only with the means 
 necessary to reach Khartoum. 
 
 What he did in those ten years no one knew till
 
 viii PREFACE. 
 
 now. The letters that he sent us from Africa were few 
 and far between, partly on account of the communi- 
 cations being interrupted for several years ; and they 
 contained nothing but purely geographical information. 
 
 Casati, modest to a fault, always disliked speaking 
 of himself, and that, perhaps, is a conspicuous defect, 
 ^^'hich the readers of his book will readily discover — I 
 mean those readers who, upon opening a volume of 
 travels, expect to find sensational descriptions of 
 hunting and fights. However, tiie author's accounts 
 of the virgin forests of the Nepoko and Bomokandi — 
 his semi-starvation for months — his journeys through 
 marshy land — his imprisonment, condemnation to death 
 and escape are intensely interesting. 
 
 His long residence in those beautiful regions, his 
 thorough knowledge of the languages of the various 
 tribes, and almost complete isolation for many years, 
 except when he was with Emin Pasha and Junker, will 
 give quite a special character to this book. Above all, 
 it contains the truth and nothing but the truth. 
 
 The work has not the artistic merit of a practised 
 writer who knows how to describe the facts which he 
 wishes to impress on the reader's mind, but reminds us 
 of the old Bersagliere, and appears like a report to his 
 superiors. 
 
 Major Casati's papers relating to the first period of 
 his explorations were lost at Juaya, in! Unyoro, where 
 he was condemned to death by King Chifa ; but his 
 great power of recollection may be compared, if the 
 peculiar simile is allowed, to a liver at its source, 
 where the waters are quite clear, and not yet disturbed 
 by affluent streams.
 
 PREFACE. ix 
 
 It must not be forgotten that after the recall of 
 
 Gessi Pasha, Casati was left alone, without an escort 
 
 and without means, and was compelled to feed like the 
 
 natives, till he was invited t6 Lado to consult with 
 
 Emin Pasha as to the steps W-be taken against the 
 
 progress of the Mahdists ; but that which shines 
 
 brightest in the author is his love for mankind, and 
 
 especially for the negro ; as an instance I will give an 
 
 extract from Stanley's " In Darkest Africa," page 544 : 
 
 "Casati was placed in a hammock and carried, on account of in- 
 creasing weakness. The Pasha visited me, and related his opinion 
 that Casati was a curious man. Said he, ' I have just seen my 
 friend Casati. I found him lying on some grass, and the sunshine 
 pouring on his bare head with such heat that, even with my topee 
 I suffered inconvenience. He has four women, besides two Man- "^ 
 yuema, and his young man from our province. I asked why he did 
 not make his people build him a shelter with banana leaves, for 
 there were some within forty yards of him. He replied, ' I have no 
 servants.' I then said to him, ' Why did you not send for the bath- 
 tub I promised you 1 You should avail yourself of these hot springs.' 
 ' True,' he replied, ' but I have no people.' ' But you have four 
 stout female servants that I know of.' ' Yes,' said he, ' but I do not 
 like to ask them to do anything, lest they should say I work them 
 like slaves. They are widows, you know, and their husbands are 
 dead,' " &c. 
 
 That is like the man. Some may say, and perhaps 
 they are not wrong, that his is an exaggerated love of 
 his neighbour, but at any rate we all ought to esteem 
 so great a sacrifice of self. 
 
 From the day when Casati became Emin Pasha's 
 companion he actively assisted him in his scientific 
 work, and most of the information about the fauna and 
 flora, the usages and history of the Unyoro and lower 
 Welle regions, was supplied by Casati, as Emin himself 
 said in letters to his European friends. 
 
 With regard to the Stanley -Emin controversy.
 
 X PREFACE. 
 
 Casati's mind has neither been influenced by the 
 friendship of the former nor by the gratitude due to 
 the latter, and his impartial judgment is supported by 
 facts which occurred under his eyes and which he alone 
 can authoritatively and authentically explain by reason of 
 his thorough knowledge of the political and military 
 history of Equatoria. 
 
 He benevolently elucidates Jephson's mistakes, who 
 was a novice in Africa, with no knowledge of Arabic, 
 and for instance did not clearly understand the situation 
 when he considered himself a prisoner, while, according 
 to Casati and Yita Hassan, such was not the case. 
 
 This book appears somewhat tardily for two reasons : 
 first, because the author had his early papers stolen by 
 King Chua, and has been compelled to re-write those 
 notes from memory ; and, secondly, because, as a staunch 
 friend of Emin, in fortunate as well as adverse circum- 
 stances, he remained at Zanzibar and Cairo for five 
 months to nurse his sick friend and to assist him in 
 obtaining the amount due to him from the Egyptian 
 Government, which involved the author in difficulties 
 and loss of time, impatient as he was to see his Mother 
 Country and friends after ten years' absence. 
 
 This memorable work will be a most valuable addi- 
 tion to the history of geographical discoveries in 
 Central Africa. 
 
 Capt. Manfredo Camperio.
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 Prefatory Letter op Captain Camperio .... Pp. v — s 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 FROM GENOA TO KHARTOUM. 
 
 Departure from Milan — The Suez Canal — The ass-drivers — Circumnavigation 
 of the Eed Sea — Jidda — Hodeida — The delegates of the Society of Com- 
 mercial Exploration of Milan — Establishment of factories — Massov?ah — 
 Suakim — The Bishop of Shoa, Cardinal Massaia — My caravan^ — The Turks 
 of Jidda — In the plains between Suakim and Berber — The camel — The 
 camel-drivers — Their head-dress — Their greediness — Berber — In a boat 
 on the Nile — The crew — Stoppages — The villages we saw — Khartoum — 
 The Catholic Mission — Government Establishments — The Government 
 Garden — Historical information about the first occupation of the Soudan 
 — Treason of King Nemr (Tiger) — Defterdar Pasha — Ibrahim Pasha and 
 the receipt of taxes — The Viceroy Mohammed Ali in the Soudan — The 
 peace under Abdul Latif Pasha — First troops with Ali Pasha, nicknamed 
 the Monkey — The Viceroy Said Pasha in the Soudan — Ahmed Abu Bedan, 
 the Butcher — Organisation of the Soudan — The Mameluke Moussa Pasha 
 — The Sheik Ahmed, nicknamed the Father of the Devil — Message to the 
 King of Abyssinia —Advent to the throne of Viceroy Ismail — Meeting of 
 the troops at Kordofan — Submission of King Nasser — The Paris Exhibition 
 of 1867 — Resignation of Gordon — Giegler Pasha — Opposition to my 
 departure — Zucchinetti — Messedaglia Bey — Arrival of Raouf Pasha — 
 General Government of the Soudan — Treason of a Soudanese — The Greeks 
 and Syrians in the Soudan — Albert Marquet — The death of Fraccaroli. 
 
 Pp. 1—20 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 FROM KHARTOUM TO MESHRA-EL-REK. 
 
 I am able to embark — Brun Rollet — The missionaries^ — The brothers Poncet 
 — Miani — Tura-el-Hadra — Duemme — El-Koweh — The majestic Nile — The 
 Baggara — The island Abba and the future Prophet — Kaka and the Shillook 
 — The river Sobat— The delegates of the Society for the Suppression of 
 the Slave Trade — Bahr-el-Ghazal — Mosquitoes and wasps — Numerous 
 hippopotami — Scorpions — Mode of curing their bite — The Nuer — Their 
 rivalry with the Dinka — The river is closed by thick matted vegetation —
 
 xii CONTENTS. 
 
 Immense toil in opening a road through it — Negro soldiers — Sixty-six 
 obstructions — The Ealjcniceps Rex — Troops of Elephants — Arrival at 
 Meshra-el-Kek Pp. 21—28 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 WITH MY FRIEND GESSI. 
 
 A letter from Gessi — The station of Meshra-el-Kek — The Dinka, their usages 
 and customs ; cultivation, care, and regard for serpents — Extensive rear- 
 ing of herds and flocks — The Arabs and Gessi ; he is beloved by the good 
 and hated by the wicked — Songs and dances— The elephant and the cock 
 — Continual expansion of the Dinka tribe — Nineteen days of waiting — 
 Arrival of the mules — The villages on the road — -Fertility of the soil — A 
 wild vine — The river Momul — Arrival at Jur Gattas— The river Jur — 
 Kutchuk-Ali and the cotton plantations around it — The two branches of 
 the Jur — Great numbers of crocodiles — Meeting with Gessi— A short 
 account of the campaign by Gessi against Solj-man, the 17th July, 1879 — 
 Shooting of Solyman and the rebel chiefs — Opening of the river Jur to 
 navigation — Incipient prosi^erity — King Mdarama of the Sandeh — Visit 
 of his brother to Wau — Gessi decides to go to Khartoum — His projects — 
 The die is cast Pp. 29 — 42 
 
 CHAPTER lY. 
 
 GESSI'S DEPARTURE. 
 
 The Negro soldiers of the Soudan— Trials made of them at Messico, in the 
 Unyoro, and in the region of the Jur — Soudanese soldiers in the German 
 service — The soldiers of Equatoria send a deputation to Dr. Peters — Enemies 
 to Mahdism— Their defects— Departure from Wau — First attacks of fever — 
 Serious illness — I am given immense doses of quinine — Last farewell to 
 Gessi— Public order is overthrown — Sati Effendi, the Deputy Governor — 
 March to Rumbek— The rivers Tong and Jau— The torrent Mar- The 
 Dongolese — The villages Tong, Gog-el-Hassan, and Gog Moutkar— The 
 village of Rumbek— Peculiarity of its architecture — The tribe Dinka of 
 Atot and Gog — Their rivalry with the neighbouring Jur — Mohammed Mula, 
 chief of the district — The base of operations against the slave-dealers — 
 Productions of the soU— Nuptial Ceremonies . . . Pp. 43 — 50 
 
 CHAPTER Y. 
 
 FROM RUMBEK THROUGH THE COUNTRY OF THE DONGU. 
 
 Slow marches— Departure from Rumbek— Ayak— The river Rohl— The Donagla 
 — The Agar — A Greek — Plantations — Manufactories— Intercourse between 
 Arabs and Natives— The freeing of slaves— Mudir Mula—'" The lion is taken 
 from us" — Mergian Ali The destruction of Rumbek — Slaughter — A survivor 
 — The storming of Ayak— Retreat to Bufi — The Lesi district — The chief of 
 Bufi — His bravery — His superstitions — Talisman to protect us from lions and 
 crocodiles — Bufi free from the attacks of leopards — Did Khartoum fall, or 
 not?— Medical art— The Moru tribe— Tobacco (iVrtciV)— The Koddo and
 
 CONTENTS. xiii 
 
 the Koddero — The river Yei — The station of Araadi — Its military im- 
 portan-^e— Mohammed Abdu — Burci — Grass conflagration — "Great fire 
 causes great wind "—The continuation of my journey forbidden — The river 
 Aire — The Moru — The colonies of Abukaya — The watershed between the 
 Nile and the Makna — The Baginse Group — Watershed between the Nile 
 and the Congo — The Abaka — Perforated lips — The substitute for tobacco — 
 Anzia — Bederi — Belledi — Edi — Meriddi — Issu — Ibba — Mombia — Nembia — 
 Metinga — The river Duru— Robbery of salt and flight of the carriers — 
 Rains — Forced halt— Difficulties on the march — Watershed between Duru 
 and Dongu — Tawil — Bongola — Basinge — Baghinde — The rivers Akka and 
 Garamba — Hostility of Baghinde — Our passage through his territory is for- 
 bidden — An interview— No reply Pp. 51 — 62 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 THROUGH TANGASI TO THE MAKUA. 
 
 Crossing the Dongu — Boats— Hippopotami — Crocodiles — A poisonous plant — 
 The colony of Mari— Mombuttu or Mambettu — The forest — The river 
 Kibali — The Mambettu people — Old inhabitants of the region — The Mundu 
 and the Abisanga — The Mambare — The Mege, Maigo, and Abarambo — The 
 Bamba — The Akka fall back — Nembimboli and the Mambettu — The Mabode 
 — The Sandeh-iron — The red oil palm — Gambari, Kadebo, and Yangara — 
 The wooded region- — Crocodile flesh — The Tina Mountain — The river Gadda 
 — Bellima — Liberation of Gambari — The grey parrot with a red tail — Monfu 
 — Gango — The Ohc — The Monfu, an inferior race — Agriculture — The manu- 
 facture of palm oil — Xocava extracted from the Elais palm — Military art — 
 Raids by the slave traders— A brazen slave-trader — The colony of Bongo — 
 I again reach Bellima — Tangasi — The river Gadda — Ello — The home of the 
 chimpanzee — The Bamba and the Niapu — Miani's bones^Grave-diggers — 
 Munza and his former grandeur — Bitto — Munza's girdle — Voracity of a 
 pigmy — A letter from Dr. Junker — Ingabeto — I descend by the Makua — 
 A ford of the Makua — Sentry, beware I — Territory of the enemy — Landing 
 — Mambanga, Munza's nephew— The country's state of defence — Meeting 
 Junker Pp. 63—77 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 THE DIVISION OF MUNZA'S KINGDOM. 
 
 The Bomokandi country — Nembimbaliat Ndubala — His death — His son Tukba 
 — Renewed courage — The avalanche slips down again — In Nembeleti — 
 Organisation of the country — Assimilation with the vanquished — Angolo, 
 general of the Sandeh — Death of Tukba — Munza the young ne-ldnie — 
 Alliance with Magapa — Peace concluded — Partition of the Kingdom — 
 Adoptions of nephews — The slave traders — Nessugo the rebel nephew — 
 The sons assume the nationality of the mother— Struggle between Eru and 
 Ndula — The Arabs think of deriving advantage from it — Ngasi (or Tangasi) 
 burnt — Horrid banquet — A corpse and the scant pity — A crowd rushino- 
 into slavery — Yangara, Gambari, and Kadebo — Murder of Kubi — Gano-o 
 falls on Mount Tina — "I am a king's son" — The slave traders El-Mai — 
 The Niapu — Azanga — A generous brother- -On the bank of the Makua —
 
 xiv CONTENTS. 
 
 Ncssiipo, a vassal and a friend — He tries to deceive the Arabs, and laughs 
 at them— Fallen into the trap — His death — General language — Respect to 
 fallen grandeur— The Nvg()ld — Nursing the Chief — Hair— Large pins — 
 Tattooing — Small tuft of parrot feathers — The Mandalongo — The shield — 
 The talisman— Spears — Servants' weapons — Wonderful dexterity — The 
 Tromhask — Imperfect means, artistic execution — Wood work — Agricultural 
 implements— Pottery— Schweinfurth's judgment . Pp. 78—87 
 
 CHAPTER YIII. 
 
 EXTRACTS FROM GESSl'S DIARY. 
 
 Mambanga — Massacre of the Arabs — Heroism of Mambanga, "My son must 
 not fall into the hands of the Donagla " — The Mambettu — Despatch of 
 troops — Assault on the military station — Panic of the soldiers — Dr. Junker 
 
 The Mapingo — The Abarambo — Hunters — The wood-carving industry — 
 
 The old Mbruo — His supernatural powers — The Nal-ooma — The chief Lugor 
 of Latooka — The dispenser of rain in Unyoro — Sad news — Death of Gessi 
 Pasha — Fragments of coiTespondence taken from the explorer's diary — 
 Obstruction on the Xile — Four hundred and fifty starved to death — Marno 
 the deliverer — Cause of the obstruction on the Nile — Jlehd and fula- 
 Obstructions on the river Ghazal — Presumable cause of the disaster— The 
 Abarambo elephant hunters — They are surpassed only by the Mege — Mode 
 of hunting in the Mambettu — Burning of the grass — Spear thrusts — The 
 Xembola — Division after the chase — Rights of the King — Ivory — Sur- 
 roundings of King Jacoda's dwelling — The houses of Azanga— Gifts from 
 deference — The Xembrosse and the Nanibongo — The Xelolube — An elegant 
 mortar — Riches in ivory — Necessity of flying from abuse of power — Yangara 
 irritated by a minor chief — ^Yengeance and disillusion — The buffaloes — 
 Trophies of hunting and war Pp. 88 — 99 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 THE AKKA TRIBES. 
 
 Queen Nenzima — Woe to him who suspects Cassar's wife — Souvenir of youth 
 — King Yangara — Fond of sermons — Honour to Bacchus — The Awa — 
 Dancing — The Beie — The Cobesore — The Bandima — Feminine coquetry — 
 Warlike pantomimes — Frantic women — The Nebi — Sorcery to drive him 
 away — The Atherura africana — The Cricetomys gairibianus — The Mboma — 
 The pigmies — A skeleton in the British Museum — The Akka and the 
 Tiki-Tiki — Apparent differences — Efe — Marriages — Superstitions — Huts — 
 Household furniture — They are not cannibals — The method of govern- 
 ment — Omnivorous — Modes of payment — Weapons — Elephant hunters — 
 The Akka women as foragers — Undaunted and feared warriors — They are 
 conscious of their own merit — Anecdotes — The mode of trying and 
 punishing criminals — Homicide— Theft — Adultery — Sorcery — The brave — 
 Horrible mutilation — The Xuvgo — Poultry according to the laws of Yan- 
 gara — The royal table — Termes mordax — a butterfly which may cost one's 
 life — " AjiyeJiu me Jcotu, aiiyelu me lotu" .... Pp.100 — 113
 
 CONTENTS. XV 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 IN KING AZANGA's COUNTRY. 
 
 On the banks of the Bomokandi — Azanga ne coropo — Wild boars — Tomb of a 
 warrior — Violation of tombs — the kings' tombs — Funeral rites — Curious 
 tomb of Mbruo — Olopo, Azanga's residence— Six human skulls — Azanga^ 
 Munza's brother — Court ceremonial — Sneezing — Grey parrots — Cheap pipes 
 — The king smokes— The evil-eye — ^" By Azanga's life, he is dead ! " — 
 Sentences upon criminals — Sentences against animals — " Is there a sun 
 at Khartoum?" — Royal table— Several kinds of bananas — The Bidoncjo — 
 Beer made with banana juice — The king's lance — Struck by lightning — 
 The chimpanzee — Its abode — It does not forget offences — It is cunning 
 and thievish — The llaholo — Pantomime — The king's favourite — Azanga's 
 mistrust and suspicion — Vexations — Flight — A gunshot — Never ! — Prayers 
 and threats — Absolute refusal — Azanga becomes reasonable —At Tangasi. 
 
 Pp. 114—126 
 
 CHAPTER XI. -- 
 
 THROUGH THE ABARAMBO COUNTRY. 
 
 Central Africa, its natural features and inhabitants— Wai'rior and hunter — 
 Sense of beauty — Lovers of independence — Kindness — Cordial relationship 
 — Bauli a fugitive — A few words about Albinoism — Funeral music — 
 Revenge in sight — A murderer's hand — Indifference to fear — Polemi and 
 its king— The Mambaga, Zungli, and Mapulior mountains — Alabara and 
 Nzaba — Abundance of animals — A hurricane — A stormy night — The huts 
 of the Abarambo — Small wooden statues — Fight with a monkey — • Voquo 
 flesh is as good as human — A royal musician — The Queniba—IHi shungo 
 iole dete — Headache — Ferrying over the Bomokandi — The river Mambana 
 Bakangoi — Produce of his kingdom — Five hundred women — -The king's 
 wardrobe — Savage justice — Love for women — Amazons — The king's refusal 
 to allow me to go to Ababua — A chimpanzee . . . Pp. 127— 138 
 
 CHAPTER XII. ^ 
 
 THE SANDEH, 
 
 Valley of the Bomokandi — Forests and fields — The Sandeh — Ornaments and 
 wearing apparel — Arms — Men's occupation — Working women— Proofs of 
 respect — Biu muie — The Idio tribe — Politics of Ntikima — Theft of a 
 corpse — War — Ntikima's sepulchre — African vestals —Fratricidal war— The 
 Tummu — Large and small fowls — The river Poko — Well cultivated fields — 
 Old Zaccala — Attacked by dogs — Sandeh dogs — At Ndubala — Kanna is 
 less ferocious than his brothers — Dead people never return — The wife 
 sacrificed on her husband's tomb — Witchcraft — A king's favourite — My 
 good fortune — The exchange of blood — The European's friend — Kanna's 
 artful politics — The defunct father who watches over the kingdom — Two 
 hundred and fifty gazelles — Good wishes for my journey — Miani's itinerary 
 — Bazimbi and a gun — " The elephant and the mouse " — " The dead man and 
 the moon" — The buffalo trap — The Queniba (favourite musical instrument 
 of the Sandeh) Pp. 139—152
 
 xvi CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 THE WELLE-MAKUA. 
 
 Diego Cam in 1485— Antonio Gavazzi in 1668— Tuckey in 1816— Welle-Niger 
 \ —The Welle— The brothers Poncet— Carlo Piaggia— Dr. George Schwein- 
 furth— March 19, 1870— Characteristics of the river — It is the upper part 
 of the Shari river — The Xilopia ethiopica — Kumbo and Kubanda — Where 
 does the Shari rise ?— Dr. Nachtigal— Hypothesis uf the Welle— Kubanda 
 — Meeting of the Paris Congress, 1875— The Aruwimi— The great river 
 Obi — Kibali — Makua — Dua — Obangi — Difficulty of hypothesis — The divi- 
 sion of waters in Africa— Orographical system— Zambesi, Congo, and Nile 
 V' — Latest explorations of Captains Roget and Becker — Origin of the Welle 
 —The Makua — Northern and southern tributaries — Variety of its course 
 —Aspect of the land — Its nature and riches — Flora — Rubber and ivory — 
 The climate— Childhood of .f/e/nts /i07?io .... Pp. 153— 161 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 azanga's fall and re-ixstatement. 
 
 War against Azanga — Havash Montasser— His deeds from 1876 — Vandalism 
 and riots — Failure against Mambanga — Colonel Bachit Bey — Mambanga 
 a fugitive — A modern Alboin — " For Munza's sake " — Mambanga is an 
 accomplice in treason — Azanga betrayed — "A king may be killed, but 
 should not be insulted and degraded in this manner " — Three hundred 
 victims — Mambanga in power — Omar Erif — An impious goat — Dangal 
 the son of Azanga — Projects — My Akka's indigestion — Deplorable con- 
 sequences — Azanga reinstated upon the throne — Havash is discarded — 
 Azanga obeiro ahama ne hacu — The Mege tribe — Excellent maize— Naghiza, 
 prince of the mountain — The Mege hunters — Numerous tribe— Chief Kinn 
 of Bunazza — Horrible punishment — A shooting lesson — The Pahuta — 
 Temperance of the blacks — Clever but drunkards — Hunger and a piece 
 of rope — Pitch dark — Hearing and seeing — Perception of colours — The 
 Mambettu Zenze — At Nebotto — Fine goats— Indifference to pain— A new- 
 road — Old route to Mambettu — From Dongu to Tendia — The Bassia 
 Parhii — In twelve days — Ringio and his Sandeh people — An obstinate 
 sinner — Ibrahim Guruguru — At Lado Pp. 162 — 173 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 DR. EMIN's report. 
 
 Dr. Emin Pasha— Gordon's agent — In Uganda and Unyoro — Governor of 
 Lado — His mode of government— Difficulties to overcome — His special 
 interest and care for the cultivation of land— Study of the country under 
 his governorship — His qualities and faults — Equatoria according to Emin's 
 report — Ivory— Table of the export of ivory from 1853 to 1879 — Ostrich 
 feathers — Honey and wax — Skins and furs — Living animals — Vegetable 
 produce — Grain — Vegetable oils — Gums and resins — Tamarinds — Sugar- 
 canes — Cotton — Tobacco — Coffee — Nutmegs — Iron — July 11 1882, at 
 Alexandria— Fall of the Khedive's prestige— Egyptian colonels — Arabi —
 
 CONTENTS. xvii 
 
 Mohammedans and Christians — Tel-el-Kebir — Comical conclusion of the 
 drama — The news from the Soudan casts a sinister light — The steamer 
 TelaJiuin returns to Khartoum — " Nor had I alone this hope'" — Dr. Eraldo 
 Dabbene — On a journey with Emin — The security of the Dongu road 
 assured — Compulsory and disagreeable stoppages — Two hostages — Peace 
 is made — A biblical donkey — The good Yangara — " Every good action 
 deserves a reward " — Emin in Mambettu-land — Revolution in the Rohl 
 region Pp. 174— 18.S 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 THE MAHDIST MOVEMEXT. 
 
 State of the negroes in the Egyptian possessions — Letter to Captain Camperio 
 — The question of slavery and its difficulties — The curse of Ham — Inclina- 
 tions of the negroes — Masters and servants — Slave traders — Native chiefs 
 their accomplices — Egypt and Zanzibar — The infamous slave trade — 
 Europe and the treaties^The Khedive Ismail— Sir Samuel Baker — General 
 Gordon — Desperate resistance — Necessity and duty of preventing the 
 slave trade — The Arabs must be removed— Domestic slavery — Patience 
 and perseverance — Proper means — Marriages, courts of justice, and altars 
 — Homes — Fate of the negro tribes in the Mambettu and Sandeh countries 
 — Freemen and slaves — The Monfu and Abarambo tribes — Effect of a 
 sentence^Women — Mambanga and Baghinde resuscitated — ^Rebellion in 
 Mambettu — Kadebo's end — The temple of Janus closed — Two boars sen- 
 tenced to death — Chamberlains compelled to fast — A neophite for a plate 
 of meat — Rivalry between Arabs and Soudanese — Ibrahim Guruguru — 
 Lieut.-Col. Bachit Bey — Ringio's head — AUoron, Baker's enemy — The 
 rebellion in Bahr-el-Gliazal — Johann Maria Schiiver — Emin's letter, 
 May 28, 1884 — "Either I win the day or die " — Keremallah's intimation — 
 Deliberations under the impression of fear — "It was a di-eam "' — The 
 difhculty of retreat — Exodus of the Arabs — " The tree offers shade, and 
 the Koran is mine " Pp. 189 — 199 
 
 CHAPTER XVII. 
 
 THE MAHDISTS APPROACH LADO. 
 
 A modern Moses — A bag of locusts — We white men will escape — Military 
 measures — First blood shed — Death of Ibrahim Guruguru — I advise 
 abandoning Amadi — Proscription rolls — Horrors and slaughters — The 
 country of Makraka — An eclipse of the moon — Slaughter of Bor — Mahdists 
 before Amadi — I go to Lado— Niambara between Mount Rego and Mire — 
 Impromptu fables — Bari people — Their habits and dispositions — Dwellings— 
 The Euphorhiumcandelahrum—TTeQS— Birds— CvocoAiles and hippopotami 
 —Butter and salt — Exorcism for rainfall — Junker settles down on the 
 Victoria Nile — News of the situation at Amadi— Amadi abandoned — Letter 
 from Keremallah — Interview with Emin — My proposal is accepted — Two 
 troublesome steamers — Battle of Rimo — News of the capture of Khartoum 
 — Death of Gordon — April 25,1885 — Emin's departure for Gondokoro — 
 Abdullah Niambara and his seventy-two people — Lado after Emin's 
 departure —Keremallah starts for Bahr-el-Ghazal . . Pp. 200— 215 
 
 h
 
 xviii CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 xnE GRADUAL RETREAT TO WADELAl. 
 
 Tlie Soudanese soldiers — The officers — The Egyptian school — The Governor's 
 difliculties— First misfortunes — Emin Pasha leaves Gondokoro — Promises — 
 Hawashi Effendi, Governor of Dufile — In the south — My departure from 
 Lado "—The road between Lado and Muggi— The Bari — " The woman and 
 the hysena" — I decided to go — Emin's opposition — An ambush — I remain 
 with my friend — From Muggi to Dufile — The Madi — Measures taken at 
 Dufile by the Governor — Arrival of the steamer — A bad commencement — 
 At Wadelai — Emin derives solace from study — Impulse given to agricul- 
 ture— Xcw industries— The Chief of the Lur — Customs and usages of the Lur 
 people — Cjipria moneta— "The earth and the hare" — "The lion and the 
 boar " — Without commotion — The Bari in rebellion — The great enchanter 
 . — His death — Victory— The Dinka pay themselves — The soldiers cheer up 
 '/ — Re-occupation of the Makrnka district— Letters from the Arabs — Dr. 
 Emin Efi'endi— Departure of Junker and Vita Hassan— The letter from 
 Nubar Pasha — General Gordon's death — Mohammed Biri, the Tripolitan — 
 War between Uganda and Unyoro — Starvation and small-pox — The door 
 shut — Past opportunit)" never returns — Need of assistance — We are at the 
 soldiers' mercy— My Calvary — Departure for Unyoro . Pp.216 — 231 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 THE FALL OF KHARTOUM. 
 
 The carpenter of Dougola — May 1884 — A life of penance — The standard of 
 V/ rebellion unfurled — Causes of disaffection in the Egyptian Soudan— The 
 slave trade — Raouf Pasha and his measures — A Babylonian banquet — 
 Abd-el-Kader Pasha — Defeat of the troops — Wise measures of the 
 Governor — General Hicks' expedition — Ti sebil Allah — Trophies of human 
 skulls — Osman Digna, chief of the dervishes — Plans concocted in Cairo — 
 General Gordon — His mission— His intentions — Prestige of his name — 
 Battle of El-Tcb — Fall of Sinkat — Surrender of Tokar — General Graham — 
 Abandonment of the campaign in the Eastern Provinces — Tactics ; 
 difficulties arising from the nature of the soil, from the climate and 
 temperament of the enemy — Gordon cannot leave Khartoum — Relief 
 expedition under the command of General Wolseley — Bombardment of 
 Berber — Death of Colonel Stewart — Faulty division of the forces— The 
 Mahdi's exertions — Wilson before Khartoum — The catastrophe — The soldier 
 without fear and without reproach — The Geddal of the Mohammedans. 
 
 Pp. 232—240 
 
 CHAPTER XX. 
 
 LIFE IX UNYORO. 
 
 Hostilities cease — The matamure — The king shows himself — Waganda and 
 Wanyoro — Muangaand KabbaRega— King Chua (Kabba Rega) — He remem- 
 bers his friend Emin — Juaya — His royal palace — The morning greeting of
 
 CONTENTS. xix 
 
 king ami people — The king's favourite occupation — " Tliou art a slieplierd " 
 — Simulated piety and manifest avarice — His sons brought up by shep- 
 herds—No profane eye is to rest on the king's cows— The milkers — 
 Reception at an audience — Object of my mission — The good Kategora — 
 Covetous intentions of the king — I speak with the king — Occupation of 
 Tunguru and Msua— Arrival of Biri — The king yields— Hopes reposed in 
 Biri — Kategora poisoned — "He dies, he dies!" — Abd Rehman made 
 proud — Vexations — Kisa and Gumangi — Emin believes in Kabba Rega's 
 loyalty — The soldiers of Equatoria — Emin loses a good opportunity — The 
 Shooli rebels defeated and subdued — Pantomime of the Lango — We are 
 thirsty for blood— The dead fowl — The throne in danger — The queen- 
 mother, a priestess and magician — The ceremony of the mpango — Kisa of 
 Muenghe — ^Rejoicings and dancing — Burning of Juava — A heap of ashes. 
 
 Pp. 2-41— 254 
 
 CHAPTER XXI. 
 
 REaiON BETWEEN THE ALBtlRT AND VICTORIA LAKES. 
 
 Uganda and Unyoro — Watershed between the Victoria Nile and Lake Albert — 
 The region of forests — Mount Sedgiomocoro — The Kafu, tlie Ngussi, the 
 Msiri — The peninsula of Magungo — Climate — Productions of the vegetable 
 kingdom — The fauna — Destruction of hyenas — The chimpanzee — Professor 
 Giglioli and the Troijlodytes Schioeinfurthii — Professor Reichart of Berlin — 
 The termes inordcu; — The different tribes of which the people of Unyoro 
 consist — The Kmjioro or language spoken in Unyoro — The francolin and 
 the tortoise — The leopard and the dog — King Chua tells the story of the 
 Golden Book of his family — Tlie Wahuma — Customs of this tribe — From 
 Juaya to Katua on the Ruitan Lake — The Virica of the Vacongio — The 
 Ruwenzori of Stanley — Mountains of the Moon — Political government 
 and administration of the Soudan — The order of the Condo — Sacrifices at 
 every new moon — The magic spirit that disturbs the mind of the Queen- 
 mother — Suuna and the hundred murdered — Bead culture — Three cudgel 
 blows — Another locality selected — Cutting off the hands and lilinding — 
 A decree against pipes — -The ceremony of the milk — Kamissua, son of 
 Rionga, entrapped— The king eats — The Wanj'oro — The Tiumba — The 
 Mbiuju — The ceramic art — Butter — The merchants of Zanzibar — Customs 
 of the Wanyoro — The great dispenser of rain and his delegates — Funeral 
 honours — King Kamrasi's sepulchre — The veneration of the jieople and the 
 capricious superstition of the despot ..... Pp. 255 — 271 
 
 CHAPTER XXII. 
 
 DIFFICULTIES IN UNYORO. 
 
 A throne streaming with blood — Absolute power of the king — The hanassura — 
 Their increasing influence, their recruitment, and their conduct — The king 
 desirous of pleasing — " Movement is life " — The way of deceit and treason — 
 A fatal dualism — Pain destroys illusion — The boldness of yore encouraged 
 by the paternal ghost — -Alone in Juaya — Ahmed Akkad's good services — 
 Willing and paid informer — The Dinka boy brave and affectionate — Shoot- 
 ing the thieves — An unpleasant nocturnal visitor — The expulsion of the
 
 XX CONTENTS. 
 
 merchants— I am accused of plotting against the king— A guard on the 
 River Kafu Biri's servant arrested — Chua will not have me — Plan to 
 attack Wadelai— Emin informed of it by me — At Muimba, June 1, 1887 — 
 Obese women — The steamers Khedive and Nyanza on the Victoria Nile- 
 Burning of the village of Rokora — Destruction of barges — Anger of the 
 king — Letters seized — Biri on the road to Unyoro — Unavoidable danger — 
 Fortunate meeting with my people — The young ruler ignorant of the way 
 to govern — The Waganda resume hostilities — A Winchester rifle, psychical 
 experiment— Joyful welcome — I obtain permission to remain in Unyoro — 
 Fights — A deputation from Waganda— Oakibi and Kauta — The troops of 
 Waganda — They march past my house — The hanassura fighting — Emin at 
 Kibiro — Alliance or invasion — My expulsion is requested — I am to exchange 
 blood with his son ..." Pp. 27-2-286 
 
 CHAPTER XXI II. 
 
 KABBA REGa's HOSTILITY. 
 
 Occupation of the region on the left bank of the Victoria Nile — Katongoli, 
 the Lango man — A child as a holocaust — Guakamatera, Prime Minister 
 of King Chua — "The king has ordered me to watch you" — The king 
 reiterates his promises — Neither a single piece of ivory nor a cai'tridge — 
 The guards' refusal — Attempt by night — Great imprudence — The king 
 wishes me to become his guest^Tlie merchant Hamis — Exchange of 
 victims — The Victoria Nile placed in a position of defence — Sacred boats — 
 Young students — Emin leaves on a visit to the northern stations — I ask 
 for frequent despatch of messengers and steamers — Prisoners in Juaya — 
 The raids at Menakulia — A caravan of Karagua people — Communications 
 with Kafu and Kibiro are forbidden — Delusive hope — The 10th of 
 December 1887 — Noble conduct of an enemy — Advice given to Biri — The 
 31st of December 1887 — I think of a friend — The king's wickedness 
 against him — Stanley has arrived — Guakamatera's strange proposal — A 
 goat and a fowl — The great drum gives no sound — A set trap . Pp. 287 — 295 
 
 CHAPTER XXIY. 
 
 A NARROW ESCAPE. 
 
 Sad farewell supper — Biri's illusions — " To-morrow I shall be with you " — Shall 
 we turn back ? — The great priest of the Unyoro sorcerers — Opening of the 
 royal gate — The signal is given — An unrestrained crowd — Tied to the trees 
 — " Woe to you ! " — Orders to my boy — Grief and alarm of Biri — A more 
 fortunate soldier — I save my shoes — Our sufferings must not be relieved — 
 Bought by means of a coat — Payment of serA-iccs — Guakamatera at my 
 residence — Confiscation of all property — Return of the conqueror — " Gobia, 
 Gobia I " — The place of execution — Meeting of my domestics — A piece of 
 paper and a pencil — Flight — Followed and threatened — Kagoro protects 
 us — At Kibiro — Lying message of Guakamatera — The breakage of a pipe — 
 I give away my waistcoat — At the salt-pits — From Tokongia — Ntiabo, 
 the wife of the king — Kapidi, the cripple — Neither food nor passage — 
 Driven to the woods — Dinka girl— A plate of beans — Fadl starts in a
 
 CONTENTS. x>d 
 
 ■ boat—" JI'tjiCMjo, JIajaiKjo.'J' — A colony of Ltir — " We'll not kill you "—A 
 happy meeting — '• Man dies only by.permission of God" — Discoaragement 
 subdues us — "Tde steamer! the steamer!" — On the shore of the lake — 
 Refreshing sleep— The Khedive in sight— Fresh anxieties — We are saved. 
 
 Pp. 296—314 
 
 CJHAPTER XXV. 
 
 THE ALBERT NYAXZA. 
 
 Opinions of the geogi-aphers of the first half of this century on Central Africa 
 — Speke and Burton — Discovery of the Tanganika Lake — A great sea — The 
 Victoria Lake discovered by Speke — Rosher's explorations — The Nile flows 
 from Lake Victoria — Speke and Baker — Discovery of Lake Albert — Living- 
 stone's hypothesis contradicted by facts — Gordon in Equatoria — Equatoria 
 ought to find a commercial opening at Zanzibar — It opens a wav by the 
 Nile to the lakes — Romolo Gessi explores the Albert Lake— The steamers 
 Khedive and Xyanza — Colonel Mason's exploration — General Stone's 
 opinion — Stanley and the Beatrice Gulf — From Berber to Khartoum — 
 The Nile between Khartoum and Lado — Difficulty of the traffic by water 
 in the Nile Valley — The sources of the Nile — The Albert Lake — Con- 
 formation of its shores — The navigation of the lake — Storms — Croco- 
 diles — Fishing — The lake boats — Kibiro salt-works — Salt trade — Tribute 
 to the king — Cultivation — Products of the forests — Fauna — Inhabitants. 
 
 Pp. 315—324 
 
 CHAPTER XXVI. 
 
 FIRST NEWS OF STANLEY'S APPROACH. 
 
 Woe to the vanquished — A dignified proposal — Unexpected answer — Faithful- 
 ness and disinterestedness badly rewarded — Proposals for the soldiers — 
 Death of Hurshid — Cunning policy of the King of Unyoro — Its conse- 
 quences — Ballula on the Vurvira mountain — Enchantment of Sunga and 
 congratulations of Umma— The allied Lango — Contradictory news — 
 Sunga's son — Arrival of Stanley — Emin's departure for Msua — Raids into 
 the countries bordering on the Nile — Search for Stanley — Reticence of 
 the natives — Interior condition of the Province — Major Rehan Aga — His 
 declarations —His death — New misfortune — Major Hamid Aga — Demands 
 of the soldiers — Ali remains — Emin does not accept advice from me — Fatal 
 order — Pernicious lull — Demands and proposals of the 1st battalion— 
 Emin at Kirri — ^His flight —The firman granting the title of Pasha— Defeat 
 of Befo, chief of the Belinian — Stanley at Ndussuma — The wife of Mpigwa 
 -The brave Mogo— The 27th of April 1888— Stanley's letter— Advice about 
 the best thing to do Pp. 325 — 334 
 
 CHAPTER XXVII. 
 
 ARRIVAL OF THE EXPEDITION. 
 
 Emin appeals to the philanthropy and humanity of the English people- 
 Stanley is summoned — The road to be followed by the Relief Expedition-
 
 xxii CONTENTS. 
 
 There is no othor than tlialof the Congo — Provisions fail — The Expedition 
 separates — A disastrous road — Route proposed by Felkin recommended by 
 8chweinfurth and Junker — Peters on the eastern road — Route by Kibali 
 . and the Bomokandi — The 29th of April 1888 — Henry Stanley — Hope and 
 joy — Euiin is not decided about his departure — I remain with Emin — 
 Stanley refuses to perform an act of courtesy by visiting the station — 
 Emin docs not explain the dissensions in the Province — His good faith 
 is not justified — Jephson remains with Emin — Stanley's letter and sword — 
 Stanley's proposals to Emin about the future — Scientific labours bear 
 fruit — An angle of Lake Victoria — The arrival of Stanley increases our 
 weakness— Stanley's error in dividing his Expedition^The post of com- 
 mander — Departure of Stanley — King Chua does not forget us — Horrible 
 butchery at Kibiro — The arrogance of King Chua does not alter — He 
 knows of our precarious condition — Minds are agitated — A complaint 
 is made to Stanley— Consequent anger and indignation— Measures of 
 excessive rigour — I cannot succeed in restraining Emin's hand — Jephson 
 incredulous as to my experience and knowledge — The fruit of four years' 
 work and observation — Faithful to the Pasha — Advice that I gave Emin. 
 
 Pp. 335-:]45 
 
 CHAPTER XXVIII. 
 
 emin's arrest. 
 
 An old slave of the Baggara — Beginning of the rebellion — A despot and 
 a drunkard — Captain Fatelmula — -The Pasha at Dufile — Opposition of the 
 soldiers of Kirri — Insult to the Governor — The station of Muggi and 
 Abdallah Menze — Threatening attitude of the soldiers at Lahore — 
 Return to Dufile — Prisoners of the rebels — Ahmed Dinkani — Resignation 
 of Emin — I hold the knife by the handle — I receive the sad news — I 
 resolve to go to Emin — Conduct of the rebels at Tunguru — The news of 
 Stanley's return and its subsequent contradiction — At Wadelai — Agree- 
 ment amongst the Egyptians — My arrival at Dufile — -Permission to remain 
 with Emin — Interview with Emin and Vita Hassan— A sitting of the 
 revolutionary assembly — Surprise prepared by the factions — Dismissal of 
 Emin Pasha — I advise Emin to sign his name — The new Governor — 
 Violence against Major Hawashi — Fear of Stanley's return — My sympathy 
 for Emin — Proposed transportation of the prisoners — I oppose the insane 
 proposal — " I'll have him put in chains " — Search of the Governor's 
 house and that of the doctor — Little Ferida — The commander of Msua 
 retires to the mountains — The Mahdists in Rejaf waters — ^ Horrible 
 massacre — The three dervishes and Omar Saleh's letter — Emin's advice — 
 They want war — Imprisonment maintained — Selim Matera and Solyman 
 persuaded by me — Defeat of the troops — Emin and Hassan are enabled 
 to settle at Wadelai— Departure from Dufile .' . . Pp. 34i]— 359 
 
 • CHAPTER XXIX. 
 
 CROCODILE HUNTING. 
 
 Bows and kissing of the hand — The crocodile hunter— The Bari of Bedden 
 — The Dinka's whistling — The clerk Taib — A diflicult position must not
 
 CONTENTS. xxiii 
 
 be attacked openly — Proposed abandonment of Wadelai — Yussuf Fahmi's 
 mother-in-law — At Fagongo — Arrival of the steamer Klmlivc — Mahdists' 
 discomfiture at Dufile — Injunctions to the Pasha to return to "Wadelai — 
 Emin's refusal— Major Selim Matera's letter— Mahdist dollars— Evacua- 
 tion of Dufile — Captain Solyman— His death— Emin's fears— I do not 
 agree with him — Lieutenant Saleh — Indignant revolutionists — The two 
 factions — Execution of chief Sunga — His corpse on the shore — Kolikio and 
 Katto — King Chua madly enraged— A slaughtered child— A black bullock 
 and a girl twelve years old — The Lur of the mountain — Boki is dead — 
 Funeral ceremonies — Proclamation of the successor — Raids of the Unyoro 
 — Emin an ornithologist — Jephson a hunter — Emin will not leave 
 Tunguru— Stanley's return— His letter to Jephson— Emin left to himself— 
 Jephson and Emin write to the chief of the troops at Wadelai— Jephson's 
 departure — I advise Emin to take time— What an imprudence would cost us. 
 
 Pp. 3G0— 37G 
 
 CHAPTER XXX. 
 
 Stanley's manifesto. 
 
 News of the arrival of Stanley— Departure from Wadelai— Nomination of a 
 commission to be sent to the head of the Expedition— Refusal of Emin 
 Pasha— Xew perils— The means of avoiding them— Proposal accepted by 
 Emin — The opinion of the officers of the Province asked— Departure 
 for Msua — New intrigues — Emin concedes a pardon and amnesty — 
 Selim Bey — The voyage to Were— Osman Latif — His equivocal conduct 
 — He throws himself into the river — " You should have left this carrion to 
 be drowned ! " — Always the same — Counsels given to Emin— Emin shares 
 my opinion — Emin goes to Stanley's camp — William Bonny— Danger of 
 being assailed by the troops of the King of Unyoro — Bonny sent " not 
 to fight, but to bring over the luggage'" — Return of Emin to Were— 
 Colonel Fatelmula and his menaces — Impression of the officers after then- 
 visit to Stanley— Letter from Stanley to the officers at Wadelai— Advice 
 given to Emin — Difficulties of the situation — Flight of soldiers and 
 servants— Departure of Vita Hassan— The road from Were to Buguera— 
 Arrival at the encampment of the Relief Expedition . . Pp. ?>77 — 386 
 
 CHAPTER XXXI. 
 
 DEPARTURE OF THE EXPEDITION. 
 
 Waterparting between the Aruwimi and the Albert Lake — The plateau of 
 Buguera— Flora and fauna— The chimpanzee — Catching with nets— Drunk 
 in the trap — A chimpanzee drummer — The Walegga, Wahuma, and Ya-vra. — 
 The Mount Virika— The camp of Buguera— Service of the camp— Trans- 
 ports from Were — Refusal of the Zanzibaris— Stanley Bulamatari — His 
 character — Robbers rewarded — The departure is fixed — Even Captain 
 Fatelmula wishes to go to Egypt— Conversation with Stanley— The officers 
 complain — The Koran peeps out— Samadia — How to cure headache — A 
 letter of recommendation to a Wahuma — The torture of the tahatt — 
 BisndUah it BaJiman— Final evacuation of the camp of Were- Stanley's 
 fears^Emin's hesitation— The 5th of April— " I leave you to God"—
 
 ;iv CONTENTS. 
 
 The assembly — " As sure as my name is Stanley " — Rigorous watch — Those 
 who leave — Omar the Shillook — Well -distributed bastinado — Abandon- 
 ment and burning of the camp of Buguera — The river Tarara — Mpinga 
 and Mazamboni — Flight of sixty-nine soldiers and servants — Council of 
 inquiry — Mild sentence — Necessity of procuring porters — Stanley seriously 
 ill — Fever and rheumatism — A furious hurricane — Chests of ammunition 
 buried — Flight of servants — Arrest of Rehan — Summary judgment — ^The 
 body thrown among grass ....... Pp. 386 — 402 
 
 CHAPTER XXXII. 
 
 THE VIRIKA MOUNTAIXS. 
 
 Marching order of the caravan — Toil — Diseases — Hard treatment — Slighted 
 complaints — The little Amina — Departure from Niangabo — At Joddo — 
 Selim Bey's letter^The reply — At Buhogo — The attack of King Chua's 
 hanassura — The brave Oakil killed on the battle-field — Unlucky youth ! — 
 His tomb — The land before us — Western route — The study of the White 
 Mountains — The Semliki river — Crossing of the stream — The Wamba 
 country — The Bassua — At the foot of the Virika — Sanitary conditions of 
 the caravan — Clerk Wassif — A horrible thing to relate — Fighting the 
 Manyema — Lieutenant Stairs's exploration — Karalla, a servant, killed by 
 the Vakongio with their lances — New victims — Stanley arms the servants 
 to guard the caravan — Discontent augments — Exit' from the forest — The 
 Usongora — The sun shines on the Virika peaks — Lake Ruitan — The salt 
 lake — King Chua's power — Salt trade — At Amkongo — Attack by the 
 soldiers of the King of Unyoro — Return to L^'nyampaka — Moral and material 
 conditions of the caravan — Abundance of food — Routes from Unyampaka — 
 Selection of the route through Nkole Pp. 403 — 411 
 
 CHAPTER XXXIII. 
 
 FROM LAKE EUITAN TO LAKE VICTORIA. 
 
 The Nkole State — Conformation of the region — -Wahuma and Wichinesi — 
 King Ntali — A shepherd, not a king — Fear of strangers^" I will not flee, but 
 wait for you " — Negotiations started in Unyoro — Hospitality granted to 
 Uganda Christians — Mtesa driven away — Slaughters — Either circumcision 
 or death — Karema — Persecutions against Christians^Muanza christened 
 at the French Mission — A difficult path — The Mpogo swamp — The king's 
 concessions to the caravan — Disorderly conduct of soldiers and Zanzibaris 
 at Ruganda — Fight to rescue a woman — The king's son visits the camp — 
 Murder of a Manyema and of a woman — The river Kagera — A girl carried 
 away by a leopard— The mineral waters of Ntagata — Karagua's country — 
 King Nd^ora a vassal of the King of Uganda — Carried in a hammock — 
 Death by cold on the way to Batenga — The Urigi Lake — Fatelmula, a 
 soldier, abandoned to the Mtara people's revenge — His horrible death — 
 Requisitions end — Provisions are bought — Fatal effects of manioc — An 
 Akka's flight— The Victoria Lake — At the British Mission — Mackay. 
 
 Pp. 412—422
 
 CONTENTS. XXV 
 
 CHAPTER XXXIV. 
 
 ARRIVAL AT BAGAMOYO. 
 
 David Livingstone and slavery — Humanity is one and the same everywhere — 
 Explorers and missionaries — Robbers of men in Egypt and Zanzibar — The 
 war in Africa — Europe intervenes — Persecution of the missionaries — Sup- 
 pression of the slave treaty — The words of Cameron— The means must 
 be adequate to the end — Want of news — Stanley decides on departing 
 — Arrangements for the journey — The districts of Urima and Boniera — 
 Attack by Negroes in the district of Kelia — Four days of hostilities — 
 General flight of the natives — Atrocity committed by a Soudanese porter — 
 Adansonia digitata — The chief Mitinginya— The Wanyamucsi— Evil school 
 of the Arabs — The tenibc — The Masai — ^Theft of three asses — A Masai 
 saved from deserved punishment — Fauna and flora — The chief Icongo — 
 The Fathers Giraud and Schynse — The forest of sorrows — The river of 
 palms — The cisterns of Makomero — We leave the forest — A remembrance 
 of the caravan for the Wanyamuesi — We set foot in Ugogo— Mualata — The 
 Wagogo — The temhe of Ugogo — Sands and desolation — The chief Nianguira 
 — A foolish pretext — Robbery of guns — The caravan at Unyamuesi — Letters 
 from Wissmann to Emin — The village of Mussanga — The forest of Jonyo or 
 of the salt water — A well-merited punishment — -At Mpwapwa— Usagara — 
 A lovely region — At Mrogoi'o — The French missionaries — Captain Graven 
 reuth — At Kingani — The explorer of the Cassai — At Bagamoyo — Acciaent 
 to Emin--The return Pp. 423—440 
 
 FIRST APPENDIX. 
 
 Meteorological Observations in Mambettu and Unyoro. 
 
 Pp. 441—472 
 
 SECOND APPENDIX. 
 
 Comparative Tables of Native Languages . . Pp. 473 -479 
 
 Index Pp. 481—494
 
 PLATE 
 
 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 SEPARATE FULL PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 Printed in Colours, Tints, and Blach and White. 
 
 TO FACE 
 PAGE 
 
 I. Portrait of Major Casati {Fruntisinece) 
 
 II. My Caravan 6 
 
 III. The Nile near Berber 8 
 
 IV. A Khartoum Dancing Girl 13 
 
 V. Khartoum 16 
 
 VI. A Shillook Warrior '22 
 
 VII. Elephants Disturbed by the Steamer's Whistle . . . . 27 
 
 VIII. Meshra-el-Rek . . .34 
 
 IX. Francesco Emiliani 39 
 
 X. Trophies Captured from Solyman Zebehr 40 
 
 XI. Black Soldiers of the Soudan (Basinge) 44 
 
 XII. An Abaka Negro j 
 
 XIII. An Abaka Negress ) 
 
 XIV. Crossing a River 62 
 
 XV. Meeting with Dr. Junker 76 
 
 XVI. Mambanga Fighting with the Arabs. " My sou shall never be 
 
 a slave " 88 
 
 XVII. A Binsa Sorcerer .... 90 
 
 XVIII. Dance and Pantomine after a Buffalo Hunt . ... 99 
 
 XIX. Akka Women Stealing Corn during a Fight . . . 108 
 
 XX. Burial Honours of the Mambettu 116 
 
 XXI. Negro Musicians 132 
 
 XXII. Niam-Niam Negroes ......... 139 
 
 XXIII. Enchantments against Disease 149 
 
 XXIV. King Kanna Exhorts his People by the Bones of his Father . 150 
 XXV. An Abaka Farm 172 
 
 XXVI. Crossing of the Gadda 187 
 
 XXVII. Dem-Solyman in Dar-Ferlit 190 
 
 . XXVIII. Village in Makraka 204 
 
 XXIX. Night March by Torchlight 208 
 
 XXX. Rejaf with Mount Logwek 212 
 
 XXXI. A Madi Village near Labor^ 224
 
 xxviii LIS2' OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 PLATE PAGE 
 
 XXXII. Landscape in Central Africa 234 
 
 XXXIII. Daily Greetings to King Chua by his Kinsmen . . . 242 
 
 XXXIV. View of a Village in Unyoro 248 
 
 XXXV. A Village of Shooli, at the Foot of Mount Shooa . . .260 
 
 XXXVI. Execution by Three Blows with Clubs 266 
 
 XXXVII. Milk Ceremony 268 
 
 XXXVIII. Burial of King Kamrasi 271 
 
 XXXIX. King Chua's Fattened Females ...... 279 
 
 XL. Emin Shells the Canoes of King Chua's Warriors . . .280 
 XLI. Musicians of Rionga, one of the Chiefs of Unyoro . . . 287 
 
 XLII. Transport of King Chua's Canoes 290 
 
 XLIII. Casati with his Servants 294 
 
 XLIV. Mass of Gneiss Hock on Mount Logwek ..... 315 
 
 XLV. Mount Logwek, near Rejaf 316 
 
 XLVI. Wooded Scenery of the Nile near Kirri 319 
 
 XLVII. The Murchison Falls near Shooa-Moru 322 
 
 XLVIII. The First Meeting of Emin with Stanley 337 
 
 XLIX. The Egyptian Station at Kirri 348 
 
 L. A Bari Village .......... 361 
 
 LI. Casati, with his Negro Child, Vita Hassan, and Dr. Junker . 384 
 
 LII. An Ape Paradise 387 
 
 LIII. Negroes warming themselves by the Fire .... 400 
 
 LIV. Execution of a Deserter 402 
 
 LV. A Negress of the Caravan carried away by a Leopard . . 418 
 
 LVI. Casati 111 on the Return 420 
 
 LVII. A Slave Caravan 424 
 
 LVIII. Warriors of the Urima District 426 
 
 LIX. African Women of Various Tribes 430 
 
 ■ LX. The Banquet at Bagamoyo 439
 
 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 TEXT ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Captain Manfredo Camperio . v 
 
 Villa Giovio (Monza) 1 
 
 House in Jidda 3 
 
 A Banyan Merchant (Indian) 4 
 
 Bishop Comboni .10 
 
 The Catholic Mission House at Khartonm , 11 
 
 Garden at Khartoum (property of the State) 13 
 
 Fraccaroli . . . . . • , .20 
 
 Miani • . . 22 
 
 Girl of the Shillook Tribe . .24 
 
 The Balaeniceps Rex 27 
 
 Girls of the Dinka Tribe . . . . . • . . . .30 
 
 Serpent Feeding by the Dinka . 31 
 
 Arms and Utensils of the Dinka 32 
 
 Meeting with Gessi 36 
 
 Gessi Pasha . ,37 
 
 Mount Marra . . . .... . . , • . . .39 
 
 Serious Illness 45 
 
 A Morn Woman ............ 47 
 
 Negro of the Region of Abukaya 58 
 
 Negress of the Sandeh Tribe 61 
 
 Akka Woman (Pigmy) . . ^^ 
 
 Mambettu Negress . 67 
 
 Tangasi . • 70 
 
 Meeting with Mambanga 76 
 
 Dr. Junker 77 
 
 Death of King Nessugo 82 
 
 Tail-piece 87 
 
 The " Nembola," an Elephant Trap 98 
 
 Warhke Tournament 102 
 
 Dendrohyrax Emini . . 1C4 
 
 Flying Squirrel (Mboma) . , . . 106 
 
 Fight between the Akka and the Sandeh 109 
 
 Termite 113 
 
 Winged Termite 113 
 
 King Azanga ■ . - . . . . 1 19 
 
 The Chimpanzee ... . 122 
 
 Central African Scenery (the Euphorbia and Acacia) 128 
 
 The Impaled Hand 131
 
 XXX LIST OF ILLUSTRATIOXS. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Sandeh Singer 134 
 
 Execution by Strangulation . 136 
 
 A Sandeh Negro 140 
 
 A Sandeh Negro 141 
 
 Weapons of the Sandeh 143 
 
 A Sandeh Maiden 145 
 
 A Sandeh Farm 147 
 
 Dr. Junker 157 
 
 Tsetse Fly .... 160 
 
 King Azanga's Eesidence 163 
 
 Chief Kinn Fires my Rifle 169 
 
 Emin Pasha 175 
 
 Lado . .186 
 
 Dr. Vita Hassan 196 
 
 Makraka Girl 197 
 
 Makraka Warrior 201 
 
 Makraka Negro 202 
 
 A Group of Makraka Negroes 203 
 
 Group of Makraka Girls 204 
 
 Bust of a Makraka Negro 206 
 
 Bari Women 208 
 
 Emin's Divan ....... ..... 210 
 
 A Young Bari Woman 214 
 
 A Bari Woman 217 
 
 A Young Madi Negro 221 
 
 Madi Negro 222 
 
 Madi Women 223 
 
 Emin, the Learned Pasha .......... 226 
 
 Attack on Lado and Death of the Great Enchanter 228 
 
 General Gordon 236 
 
 General Gordon'.s Head ... ....... 240 
 
 Attending Chua's Sick Cattle 244 
 
 " We are thirsting for Blood " 251 
 
 A Human Sacrifice 253 
 
 Shooli Warriors 256 
 
 A Shooli Family 257 
 
 A Shooli Chief 259 
 
 A Shooli Chief .... 260 
 
 Shooli Vessels and Ornaments . 263 
 
 An Unyoro Princess 267 
 
 Musical Instruments of the Shooli 270 
 
 Flight of King Chua ... 281 
 
 My Negotiations with the Chiefs of Uganda 284
 
 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 XXXI 
 
 Casati bound to a Tree 
 
 King Chua"s Relatives in Court Attire 
 
 I am dragged along by the Guards 
 
 View of the Banks south of Fola 
 
 Landscape near the Albert Lake 
 
 AShooUGirl 
 
 Major Hawashi Eft'cndi 
 
 Emin and the Mutineers 
 
 Bari Women .... 
 
 Facsimile of Selim Matera's Letter 
 
 Ditto ditto 
 
 Coins of the Mahdi 
 Osman Latif . 
 Little Amina . 
 Fording the Mpogo Svvami: 
 A Woman stolen . 
 Ntali's Present to Stanley 
 Distribution of Goods . 
 Negro of Urima 
 Attack on the Caravan . 
 Village of Ugogo . 
 Delivery of a Letter to Emin 
 Lieutenant Rochus Schmidt 
 Meeting with Major Wissmann 
 Bagamoyo, where Emin's Accident occurred 
 
 PAGE 
 
 . 300 
 . 302 
 . 305 
 . 319 
 . 321 
 . 327 
 . 332 
 . 349 
 . 362 
 . 366 
 . 367 
 . 368 
 . 379 
 . 405 
 , 414 
 . 416 
 . 417 
 . 421 
 . 426 
 . 428 
 , 434 
 . 435 
 . 437 
 . 438 
 439
 
 MAPS. 
 
 Map of the Nile-Congo Wateepaeting. 
 
 Map op the Eastern Poetiok of the Eivek Makua and its 
 
 Affluests. 
 Maj of the Eastern Watershed of the Kibali-Makua- 
 
 Welle and Obangi. 
 Map of the Eettjen Journey from the Albert Nyanza to 
 
 the Indian Ocean.
 
 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 FROM GENOA TO KHARTOUM. 
 
 Departure from Milan — The Suez Canal — The ass-drivers — Circumnavi- 
 gation of the Red Sea— Jidda — Hodeida — The delegates of the 
 Society of Commercial Exploration of Milan — Establishment of fac- 
 tories — Massowah — Suakim — The Bishop of Shoa, Cardinal Massai 
 — My caravan — The Truks of Jidda — In the plains between Suakim 
 and Berber — The camel — The camel-drivers — Their head-dress — • 
 Their greediness — Berber — In a boat on the Nile — The crew — Stoppages — The 
 villages we saw — Khartoum — The Catholic Mission — Government Establish- 
 ments — The Government Garden — Historical information about the first occu- 
 pation of the Soudan — Treason of King Xemr (Tiger) — Defterdar Pasha — 
 Ibrahim Pasha and the receipt of taxes— The Viceroy Mohammed Ali in the 
 Soudan — The peace under Abdul Latif Pasha — First troops with Ali Pasha, 
 nicknamed the Monkey — The Viceroy Said Pasha in the Soudan — Ahmed Abu 
 Bedan, the Butcher — Organisation of the Soudan — The Mameluke Moussa 
 Pasha — The Sheikh Ahmed, nicknamed the Father of the Devil — Message to 
 the King of Abyssinia — Advent to the throne of Viceroy Ismail — Meeting of 
 the troops at Kordofan — Submission of King Nasser — The Paris Exhibition of 
 1867 — Resignation of Gordon — Giegler Pasha — Opposition to my departure — 
 Zucchinetti — Messedaglia Bey — Arrival of Raouf Pasha — General Government 
 of the Soudan — Treason of a Soudanese — The Greeks and Syrians in the 
 Soudan — Albert Marquet — The death of Fraccaroli.
 
 2 TEN YEARS IN EQUATOR lA. 
 
 January l^th, 1880 
 
 Dear Camperio, 
 
 I arrived at Suakiiu yesterday, and I hasten to give you an 
 account of the first ]iart of my journey. 
 
 You will be astonished at the tardiness of my arrival here, but 
 the means of communication between Europe and the east coast of 
 Africa are not yet well arranged. I will now, however, begin my 
 recital. 
 
 On the evening of the 2 ith of December last, I left Genoa on 
 board the Sumatra, one of the Rubattino steamers ; on the 25th I 
 reached picturesque Leghorn, with its bright shores and hills of 
 Montenera ; on the 26th I again saw gay and beautiful Naples ; 
 and on the 28th, as I was steaming away from Messina, I saw (not 
 without emotion) the shores of Italy gradually vanishing ; the land 
 where I was leaving so many friends and tender recollections. 
 
 On the 29th we were in the oG° lat. N., on the 30th in the 34°, 
 and on the 31st in the 33° ; and on January 1st, 18S0, we reached 
 Port Said. 
 
 This is a small town at the entrance of the Suez Canal, and very 
 lively, on account of the transit of commerce through it from all 
 parts of the world ; it is situated in the midst of sands, to which 
 the green foliage of the Lesseps garden forms a remarkable contrast ; 
 it has regular streets, with good buildings and excellent shops, and 
 is enlivened by the various costumes which civilisation, by its un- 
 ceasing conquests, throws together. 
 
 The Arab suburb, at a short distance, by its squalor and immo- 
 rality, is a speaking proof of the extent of Oriental degradation. 
 
 Leaving Port Said, we entered the Suez Canal, a colossal work, 
 both on account of its dimensions and the scientific means employed 
 in its construction ; it is a lasting evidence to future generations 
 of the activity and intellectual strength of our age. 
 
 It is about 100 miles (100 kilometres) long, and was excavated 
 in sandy soil ; its waters are acted upon by two opposite currents ; 
 but having a depth in the centre of not less than 26 feet (eight 
 metres), it allows the passage of large ships. Its navigable width, 
 indicated on both sides, does not permit the transit of more than 
 one steamer at a time. The navigation is controlled and directed 
 by twenty-four pilots ; there are also several stations to facilitate 
 it, of which the administrative centre is at Ismai'lia. 
 
 On the 3rd I landed at Suez, and was assailed by a great number 
 of ass-drivers, who deafened me by their noise. I was surrounded 
 and hampered by a mass of people, in continual agitation, and was 
 thrown up, rather than allowed to mount, on the saddle of a lively 
 little donkey, which in a very short time trotted over the 2i miles 
 (four kilometrtjs) which separate the port from the town. 
 
 I took up my abode at the " Orient," an inn which, besides pos-
 
 AT SUEZ. 
 
 sessing a tolerable amount of comfort, had the additional recom- 
 mendation of moderate prices. 
 
 The town of Suez at the present time is gloomy, with but a small 
 number of inhabitants, dirty streets, and devoid of commercial life. 
 The few merchants who were formerly attracted to it by the con- 
 struction of the Canal, and who have not yet gone away, are con- 
 suming there the 
 gain which they so 
 easily obtained for- 
 merly, and the le- 
 gion of employe's 
 that once enlivened 
 the town is now re- 
 duced to a few 
 agents of a Naviga- 
 tion Company. 
 
 The Italian colony 
 consists of only 
 about 100 persons; 
 the Consul, vSignor 
 Vito, is beloved and 
 esteemed as an in- 
 telligent and en- 
 lightened man, with 
 frank and courteous 
 manners ; he was 
 very kind to me 
 during my short 
 residence there. 
 
 I thought that 
 when the time 
 arrived for me to 
 leave Suez, I could 
 reach Suakim in a 
 few days, but Sig- 
 ner Bernard, an 
 agent of the Rubat- 
 tino Company, in- 
 formed me that the 
 ship Palcstina., for 
 special commercial 
 reasons, was to go to Hodeida, Jidda, and Massowah first, instead 
 of proceeding direct to Suakim as usual. At the time no Egyptian 
 steamer was going in that direction, and considering that the 
 service provided by such steamers for Jidda and Hodeida takes 
 no less than ten days to complete, I decided to embark on the 
 Falestina. 
 
 L.SE l.V JIDDA.
 
 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 Our first port was Jidda, the proud possessor of the tomb of our 
 great mother Eve, for whom the inhabitants, even the Mussulmans, 
 have a great veneration. Jidda is situated at two days' journey on 
 the way to Mecca, and the concourse to the tomb of the ]'rophet is 
 the chief cause of the wealtli of the city. Even on this voyage 
 about thirty pilgrims landed from our steamer, directing their steps 
 towards the object of their pilgrimage, the holy city of Mecca. 
 
 On the morning of our arrival, a salute of guns greeted the 
 Governor, who had just returned from the tomb of the Prophet, 
 absolved from his past extortions, with a quiet 
 and free conscience, and ready to repeat the old 
 game. 
 
 Passing through the Archipelago of Farsan, 
 and leaving behind us the Island of Camaran, 
 which was once, but is no longer, occupied by 
 the English, we reached Hodeida on the 17th. 
 This is an important town on account of the 
 great quantities of coffee that are brought there 
 from Mocha, and which are almost entirely 
 shipped to Marseilles. 
 
 The French firm, Pascal, has a representative 
 there, and several Banyans {radians) have 
 settled in the place for commercial purposes. 
 During my short residence at Hodeida I had 
 the pleasure of shaking hands with Siguor 
 Mazzucchelli, a representative of our Committee 
 of Commercial Exploration 
 
 in Africa, and I learned from ^ ,- - 
 
 him that with regard to im — ~ !^' 
 ported goods, especially ^ 
 
 liqueurs, soaps, matches, and 
 provisions, the French firms 
 monopolise all the trade of 
 the place, and that for a 
 number of years the Banyans have 
 business in other articles. 
 
 Having departed from Hodeida on the afternoon of the 18th, we 
 arrived off Massowah on the morninof of the 20th, where we were 
 allowed to land, after having submitted to a quarantine of twenty- 
 four hours, because we came from the Asiatic shore. 
 
 The town of Massowah lies at the foot of the chain of mountains 
 which stretches from Tigre, a province with which it had a con- 
 siderable trade, somewhat disturbed now, however, in consequence 
 of political complications between Abyssinia and Egypt. 
 
 I saluted our excellent compatriot Tagliabue, a delegate of our 
 Exploration Society, and also Signor Rustichelli, and it was with 
 genuine sorrow that I declined their kind invitation to breakfast. 
 
 A liAXYAN MEKCHAXT (iNI)IAN). 
 
 occupied themselves with
 
 JOURNEY TO SUA KIM. 5 
 
 because the commander of the Pahstina had decided to start from 
 Massowah on that same day ; but after a few hours' navigation it was 
 deemed prudent to stop at an island, called Telka Debir, for the night. 
 
 On the 23rd we reached Suakim, the first point that I had 
 decided to touch on my way to Central Africa. This place is the 
 door through which, by two distinct routes, one may go from the 
 Red Sea to the Soudan : one, by the table-land Kokreb and the 
 town of Berber, to Khartoum ; and the other by Kassala, through 
 Seuuaar and the Blue Nile. 
 
 In Suakim there are about 4000 inhabitants, with a few build- 
 ings, which are chiefly used by foreign settlers ; but there are 
 numerous and different sorts of huts, erected with poles and covered 
 with mats. 
 
 A large number of Greeks reside there, and at certain fixed times 
 of the year many others of the same nation come to Suakim and 
 stay for awhile for commercial purposes. 
 
 Mr. Albert Marquet, a very amiable man, has a business house 
 here, as also at Berber and Khartoum. 
 
 I had a friendly reception from ]\lr. Demetrios Mosconas, an 
 intelligent and accomplished Greek gentleman ; and also from our 
 compatriot, Signor Paoletti, who is entrusted with the direction of 
 the Post Office and the Maritime Board of Health of the town. 
 
 During my visit, I had the opportunity and the honour of paying 
 my respects to the Rev. Bishop of Shoa, who is on the point of 
 returning to Italy, to enjoy well deserved rest, after thirty years of 
 continual labour and privation, heroically suffered. 
 
 King John Kassa of Abyssinia, troubled by some malicious 
 suggestions, and jealous of the influence which (chiefly on shore) 
 the Italians were acquiring, invited the worthy prelate to Debra- 
 Tabor, in order to expel him from his dominions. 
 
 This short maritime journey of mine has been favoured by good 
 conditions for navigation. Even the Mediterranean, which at this 
 season is inclined to be turbulent, has on the contrary been smooth 
 and calm ; in the Red Sea the wind blew continually from the 
 south, but it caused no other perceptible trouble than a little delay 
 on the shorter journey between Hodeida and Massowah. 
 
 I must point out that navigation in the Red Sea is full of 
 dangers and difficulties, on account of the frequent coral banks 
 with which it is strewn (especially those in formation), and also 
 because, starting from Suez, only three lighthouses are to be seen on 
 the whole voyage, the last of which, called " Dasdalus," is in 25"" lat. 
 
 The temperature rose gradually from Genoa to Massowah, where 
 it reached oV Centigrade, but at Suakim it fell to 27'. The sky 
 was almost always bright ; on the 5th and 6th there was rain, but 
 only for a few hours, and on the 14th violent wind. 
 
 The distance of the journey is divided thus : — From Genoa to 
 Suez, 1620 geographical miles ; from Suez to Jidda, 650 ; from
 
 6 TEN YEARS IN E QUA TORI A . 
 
 .liclda to Hodeida, ul5 ; Hodeida to Massowah, 210 ; and Massowah 
 to Suakim, 240. 
 
 Yours affectionately, 
 
 G. C AS ATI. 
 
 On the morning of January 21>tli, I left Suakim, accompanied by 
 four loaded camels and two camel-drivers, and took the road to 
 Berber. To describe the scenery of this road, already illustrated 
 by the learned Dr. Scliweinfurth, and by Engineer Messedaglia's 
 detailed report, is a difficult task — after the observations and the 
 studies which they have given us, I may also say a superfluous one. 
 
 The route usually taken by the caravans is one followed in 1868 
 by Dr. Schweinfurth, but I, after leaving the Wady of Derumkat, 
 instead of taking the road to Rahonian through the small table- 
 land of Shebderin, chose the one which leads to Obak. The direc- 
 tion of the first section of this route — that is, as far as Kokreb — is 
 west-south-west, and after the Wady of Laemby, turns west again 
 as far as Berber. 
 
 This region is formed by a spur of the Ethiopian mountains, 
 which, rising gradually, marks the watershed between the Red Sea 
 and the Nile, and from that point subsides moderately, with a 
 gentle declivity, as far as the plain of the Nile, by the Wady of 
 Laemby ; but the descent from the Wady of Kokreb is steep and 
 rather difficult. To the eye of the traveller the scenery appears 
 like a series of amphitheatres, of more or less extent, joined 
 together in succession by narrow passes of various lengths. The 
 soil, generally alluvial, shows in some places diorite and granite 
 rocks, and beyond Obak there is an enormous block of the latter, 
 which the natives call Abou-Adfa, " Father of the Hermit." 
 Vegetation as far as the Wady of Kokreb is tolerably luxuriant ; 
 and consists especially of acacias, Fagonia spinosa, colocynth, senna, 
 and dragon-trees; but after Obak it disappears almost entirely, 
 and the soil has the appearance of a real desert. The road is 
 crossed by a number of Wadys — that is to say. beds of rivers — 
 which retain for a while sufficient moisture to sustain a stunted 
 vegetation ; the most prominent of these are Omareg, Akamet, 
 Arab, Kokreb, Laemby, .and Selim. In the rainy season (pari/) 
 they flood the land around, making the road impracticable, and 
 interrupting commercial intercourse ; in fact, in February several 
 wells, to be met with daily, contain plenty of water ; but beyond 
 Obak, one must travel two davs before arriving at tlie wells of 
 Abu-Taker. 
 
 However, the nature of the soil is such that in consequence of 
 the permeable strata the water passes through readily, and is to be 
 procured in almost eveiy locality without much trouble. 
 
 The chief points to be met with on the route are Sinkat, the 
 first station after Suakim, situated at an altitude of 985 feet (300
 
 CAMELS OF THE SOUDAN. 7 
 
 metres) ; Omareg in the Valley of Omareg ; the table-land of 
 Akmet, altitude 2625 feet (800 metres) ; Kokreb, 2460 feet (750 
 metres) ; Derumkat, 1970 feet (600 metres) ; and the wells of 
 Abu-Taker, 1215 feet (370 metres), a short distance from Berber. 
 
 The distance between the Red Sea and the Nile, according to 
 the route taken by me, may be reckoned at about 250 miles (400 
 kilometres), that is to say, about 100 hours' journey with loaded 
 camels, as the later can travel ten hours a day. With saddle- 
 camels, runners {harjin)^ the length of the journey might be under 
 seven days, but the camel, which naturalists teach us to consider 
 as endowed with most precious qualities, is far, at least in this 
 region, from possessing those one would expect, either because the 
 race is in a state of decay here, or on account of the bad food and 
 water with which they have to be supplied : anyhow, it is certain 
 that here they are not possessed either of much strength or 
 capability of resisting fatigue. They carry a load of five hundred- 
 weight (about 250 kilogrammes) ; their blanched bones and 
 putrefied carcasses very otten show the sad destiny that is theirs ; 
 most of those which die from disease have suffered from affections 
 of the liver. Let us hope that their decay will hasten the time 
 when means of communication more suitable to civilisation may 
 cause the famous ships of the desert to be less required. 
 
 On the second day of my journey, January 30, 1880, I met a 
 small caravan of four merchants from Jidda, who I believe were 
 going to Khartoum to purchase slaves. I joined them, and we 
 went on together as far as Berber; they were most fanatical 
 Mohammedans, as indeed all the Turks of that town have the 
 reputation of being. At certain fixed hours they stopped on the 
 road and filled the air in those lonely and monotonous places with 
 their invocations to Allah (God), " voces clamantes in deserto ; " and 
 not having sufficient water for their enjoined ablutions, they per- 
 formed them with sand. But although they had strange and ugly 
 features, as a matter of fact they were good people, and greatly 
 obliged me by their courtesy and attentions. Nothing worthy of 
 record occurred on the journey. We started at seven o'clock in 
 the morning : stopped at eleven ; resumed our journey about two 
 r.M., and halted again for the night at about eight p.m. 
 
 Our roof was generally the sky. During the day we amused 
 ourselves by shooting partridges and trying to shoot gazelles ; but 
 with regard to the latter, our efforts, although repeated, were 
 alwaj^s fruitless. These pretty and lively inhabitants of the desert 
 are the gentle ornaments of its squalid valleys. 
 
 The most unpleasant task was the supervision of the camel- 
 drivers ; these Bishareen Arabs are very lazy and as stubborn as 
 rocks, indefatigible only in eating and drinking, and excessively 
 greedy for money ; it was very difficult to wake them in the 
 morning, and also to make them collect the camels, which had been
 
 8 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 set free for pasture during the night, with a fastening to their 
 front legs to make them lie down to be saddled, and prevent their 
 stopping on the road whenever they pleased. It was difficult to 
 make the men obey us ; being generally necessary to coax them, a 
 task of which my companions seemed to be fond. The dressing of 
 his head is one of the cares which engrosses most of the thought 
 and time of the Bishareen Arab. They arrange themselves in a 
 row, one behind the other ; the second combs the first, the thii'd 
 the second, and so on. 
 
 The hair is first unfastened and divided by small sticks, then 
 arranged in little plaits falling on the neck, and sometimes upon 
 the shoulders ; it is previously smeared with sheep's fat and then 
 sprinkled with red earth. These men are greedy for animal food, 
 and once having disembowelled a goat, fighting with each other, 
 they throw themselves with brutal avidity upon the quivering 
 entrails of the carcass, swallowing them with their putrid contents. 
 
 On the 7th I reached Berber ; this is a small town of about 500 
 inhabitants, situated in 18° lat. X. and 34° long. E. of Greenwich. 
 It is on the right bank of the Nile : the houses are built of bricks, 
 baked in the sun and plastered over with mud : they consist of 
 only one floor, and the roof is covered with leaves of the dom palm. 
 
 Berber has no resources of its own, but is a point in the transit 
 of the trade which passes from the Soudan through Khartoum to 
 the Red Sea. It was at that time ruled by a Governor, and had a 
 postal and telegraphic office like Suakim. 
 
 During the ten days' journey from Suakim to Berber, the 
 temperature reached a maximum of 36° Centigrade, in the shade, 
 and at daybreak on the 7th of February, 1880, a minimum of 7". 
 
 There are two routes which lead from Berber to the capital of the 
 Soudan ; one by land, on camel-back, coasting along the right side 
 of the Nile ; and the other by water, by means of the mercantile 
 sailing ships (inurhah). 
 
 The first route, which is the one adopted by the post-oflSce, 
 takes seven days ; the length of time for the second varies 
 according to the season, being dependent upon favourable winds. 
 I did not adopt the first plan of making the journey, because 
 it had already proved fatiguing and unpleasant, therefore I de- 
 cided to travel on by the Nile, and on February 12, 1880, I 
 left Berber on board a nuggar commanded by Reis Keri, a tyjjical 
 Dongola fellow, cunning, impudent, greedy, and ignorant. The 
 crew consisted of the captain and ten lads, four of whom were 
 negro slaves ; and also of two women, who were entrusted with 
 the care of grinding the corn (dhurra), upon a stone called 
 miiraTca, and preparing food for the occupants of the vessel. 
 
 I will say nothing either of the discipline on board or of the way 
 the vessel was manoeuvred ; they may easily be imagined : suffice 
 it to say that, although the waters at this time of the year are deep
 
 BETWEEN BERBER AND KHARTOUM. 9 
 
 enough, they managed to allow the ship to run ashore no less than 
 ten times during the entire journey, and on these occasions part of 
 the crew stood in the water by the bark trying to push it off with 
 their shoulders, while others on deck, with long poles, worked with 
 the same object ; the whole of them singing a monotonous tune, 
 which they believed to be indispensable to ensure a simultaneous 
 effort. 
 
 Notwithstanding that the wind is favourable at this season, vary- 
 ing between N. and N.E., and that it is easy to take advantage of it, 
 it occupied no less than fourteen long days to reach Khartoum, on 
 account of the windings of the river. Unnecessary stoppages were 
 frequent ; at Zedab we remained two days because the Reis had 
 some relatives there ; at Metemmeh one day, to allow the crew to 
 enjoy themselves ; and in all the places we stayed longer than it 
 was necessary, to procure supplies, repair the sails, and to converse 
 with the people on the shore. 
 
 With the exception of these drawbacks, the journey, on the 
 whole, was satisfactorily performed. 
 
 The aspect of the surrounding country was new, various, and 
 smiling ; the sky was constantly bright ; there were changing 
 panoramas of crocodiles, enormous hippopotami, and numerous 
 flocks of ducks and other birds ; the temperature was good, with 
 an average of 20° Centigrade at nine a.m.; 29° at noon, descending 
 to only 10° on the loth and 14th in the morning, while on the 
 other days the corresponding temperature was 15°. 
 
 The Nile flows from Khartoum to Berber upon a tortuous bed, 
 for about 250 miles (400 kilometres) ; its shores are irregularly cut 
 and worn by the stream, and show manifest signs of the effect of 
 the periodical inundations. 
 
 Its bed is generally of a sandy nature, strewn here and there 
 with sandbanks accumulated by the flow of the waters ; in some 
 localities there are also rocky masses, as that, for instance, which 
 by the Peak of Rahoyan forms the Sixth Cataract. It is made up 
 of compact rock, and is a difficult and dangerous barrier to naviga- 
 tion when the waters are low. 
 
 Between Berber and Khartoum the Nile receives no tributary of 
 any importance except the Atbara, a river which flows down from 
 the mountains of Ethiopia, and falls into the former about seven 
 hours south of Berber. The waters of the Nile, raised by means of 
 waterwheels {sahu^, render the land near the shores fertile, owing 
 to the mud which they carry, especially in dhurra, millet (doJcon), 
 tobacco, and various kinds of pulse ; no large tracts of land are 
 cultivated, only a strip along the river ; but if the systems of irri- 
 gation were extended, and the activity of the farmers increased, 
 the adjacent lands, which contain the elements of fertility, could be 
 changed into blooming gardens. Now and then, almost immedi- 
 ately after passing Metemmeh, the land is covered with a luxurious
 
 lo TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 vegetation of palms — Falma (Jadylifera, Palma dam, Famesian and 
 Nilotic acacias, bananas (M/isa parndisiaca). The adjacent parts 
 of the river are studded with villages and hamlets. 
 
 Sundi, which is situated amongst the ruins of Meroe, is distin- 
 guished for its large population and the activity of its commerce. 
 Metemmeh, on the right side ot" the river, is notorious for the 
 licentious life of its women. The industry of dressing skins is 
 briskly and extensively carried on here ; the operation is performed 
 
 by means of the pods of the Nilotic mimosa, and the skins are dyed 
 with a sort of holly and Indian saffron. 
 
 It is a small town of very irregular construction, and with a 
 thickly crowded population. 
 
 Tamania. Kerreri, Od-Alima, and Halfaya have furnaces which 
 supply good bricks, mostly utilised in Khartoum. 
 
 The land tlirough which the Nile flows is, on the whole, flat, but
 
 THE WHITE AND BLUE NILE. 
 
 here and there it has 
 perceptible eleva- 
 tions or hillocks, 
 formed by rocky 
 masses bare of vege- 
 tation, such as Kate- 
 reul, Rahoyan, Akan, 
 ()bd-el-Bassal (heap 
 of onions), &c. 
 
 The Nile is formed 
 by the junction of 
 th(^ Bahr-ol-Abiad, or 
 
 THE CATHOLIC MISSION- 
 HOUSE AT KHARTOUJr. 
 
 White River, the Astapus 
 of the ancients, and of the 
 Bahr-el-Azrak, or Blue 
 River, so called perhaps 
 from the plant indigo {In- 
 (ligofcra tinctoria), from 
 which blue pigment is 
 obtained. On the point of
 
 1 2 TEN YEARS IN E QUA TORI A. 
 
 intersection of" tlie two rivers by which tho Nile is formed, Khar- 
 toum is situated, IG" lat. N., and about 33^ long. W. This town 
 was the seat of the Government of the Soudan, and the chief 
 centre of the commerce which flowed there from Sennaar, from 
 Kordofan, from Darfur, and from the Egyptian Equatorial, and 
 which consisted of precious stones of various descriptions, ostrich, 
 feathers, tamarinds, caoutchouc, and ivory. It then had a popula- 
 tion of about GO, 000 souls, and many foreign merchants, mostly 
 Syrians and Greeks. 
 
 The Catholic missions of Central Africa, of which Bishop Comboni 
 is the chief, have an establishment there, under the protection of 
 the Austro-Hungarian Government, and on this two smaller ones 
 depend, one at l^^-Obeid, in Kordofan, and the other at Nuba, in 
 South Darfur. The good results which these institutions ought to 
 have are considerably hampered by the local conditions of morality 
 and also by the Mahommedan belief and the people's care for their 
 material interests. 
 
 Amongst the Government establishments, the arsenal, the mili- 
 tary school, and the printing-office deserve to be mentioned ; the 
 two latter were founded by General Gordon ; the Pharmaceutical 
 School was very short-lived. 
 
 The old town is almost entirely constructed of bouses made of 
 mud and bricks dried in the sun ; the new buildings are constructed 
 of baked bricks, but the scarcity of chalk makes such a luxury very 
 costly. 
 
 The houses most conspicuous for solidity and elegance are the 
 Catholic Mission, the Governor's Palace the Government Offices, 
 and a few belonging to wealthy merchants. 
 
 The only mosque which exists here has no artistic merit, but 
 there is a vast garden, the property of the State, rich in beautiful 
 plants and intersected by commodious paths, where the every-day 
 monotony is occasionally relieved by the melodies of a military 
 band, consisting principally of negroes. 
 
 In the year 1827 (1245, Hegira), Mohammed Ali Paslii, first 
 Viceroy of Egypt, conceived the project of conquering the Soudan. 
 He entrusted the undertaking to Ismail Pasha, his son, who 
 started with Circassian and Turkish Troops, went up the Nile, 
 reached Shendy, and pitched his camp there, also building a fort 
 for his own residence. King Nemr (Tiger) was the ruler of that 
 country, and he was requested to supply eatables, wood, and straw 
 for the requirements of the troops. 
 
 The wood and straw were intentionally heaped all round Ismail's 
 habitation '; one night a horrible conflagration, ordered by the 
 king, caused the complete destruction of the camp, and the Pasha 
 perished miserably with all his people. 
 
 The inhabitants of the Soudan were at that time remarkable for 
 their savage ferocity ; it is said that in Sennaar, a king, named
 
 A KHARTOUM DANCING GIRL,
 
 IBRAHIM PASHA. 
 
 13 
 
 El-Golman (Ferocious), used to eat grilled human liver, when he 
 drank his beer. 
 
 In order to avenge this act of incendiarism, Defterdar Pasha 
 Avas despatched with a large number of troops, composed of Baslii- 
 Bazoiiks ; he took the road of Assouan, Wady Haifa, and Dongola, 
 completing his journey partly by water, and j^artly by coasting the 
 Nile. 
 
 King Nemr was not to be found ; he had fled to El-Homran, 
 towards the boundaries of Ethiopia. 
 
 The rejjrisals made by Defterdar were horrible and the murders 
 numberless ; no mercy was shown, even pregnant women were 
 barbarously disembowelled : thus by slaughter the Egyptian 
 
 GARDEN AT IvIIAKTOUM (I'KOl'Eiri'Y OF THE STATE). 
 
 boundaries were extended as far as Kordofan. Ibrahim Pasha, 
 who followed Defterdar, extended his conquest as far as Woad 
 Medineh. In 1832 the Viceroy Mohammed Ali, having been in- 
 formed of the existence of gold there, went in person to the Soudan 
 and extended the conquest as far as Fazoklo. 
 
 Ibrahim Pasha having been sent to wage war in Syria, the 
 Viceroy put his own hand to the organisation of the country ; he 
 distributed the command of the troops, and appointed collectors 
 of taxes and other officials as a safeguard to order and public 
 security. 
 
 The way in which the taxes were appointed and collected was 
 very strange ; the payable amount was fixed in proportion to the
 
 1 4 TEN YEARS IN E QUA TURIA. 
 
 number of pieces of camel manure which were enclosed in a bag 
 hauginpc on a tree, and the natives punctually put Maria-Theresa 
 thalers in their place. 
 
 Even in Cairo at the present day, the Sakkah (water-sellers) 
 and the Arab coffee-sellers give their customers a certain number 
 of beads or beans, with wliich the latter pay at each purchase, and 
 when the whole amount with which they were credited is exhausted, 
 the payment in money is effected. 
 
 The current coins in the Soudau, at that time, were the Maria- 
 Theresa thaler ; the j\[alimoudieh, a Turkish gold coin= 18 PJgyptian 
 piastres ; the Bayuthe, an Egyptian gold coin = 5 Egyptian piastres ; 
 the Safrita or Austrian florin = 1| Egyptian piastres ; and the 
 piastre of 122o, called Massafani. 
 
 Commercial transactions and taxes were paid in ivory, slaves, 
 cattle, and gold-dust, because money was scarce. 
 
 Mohammed Ali having made these arrangements in the Soadan. 
 returned to Egypt, leaving there, as Governor, Ahmed Abu Bedan 
 El-Gazzar (the Butcher), so called on account of the continual 
 mutilations that he perpetrated upon the Bedouins of Taka. 
 
 The news of these atrocities reached Cairo, and oi'ders were given 
 for his recall, but he did not obey, consequently an official of high 
 rank was sent in order to bring him back to Egypt ; but upon his 
 having again refused to go, he was poisoned by his two Circassian 
 wives, who had been bribed by the Viceroy. 
 
 Then Kaled Pasha ruled two years without praise and without 
 blame ; on his death he was succeeded by Abdul Latif Pasha, who, 
 paying no heed to the restrictions which the Khedival Government 
 continually tried to impose on him, acquired the love and respect 
 of the people by his wise measures and bold initiative ; he built 
 numerous houses, amongst others the Government residence, 
 barracks for the troops, and storehouses for the weapons and 
 ammunition. He also instituted a school for the principal sheiks, 
 and in the course of three years — that is, during the whole length 
 of his governorship — he had no rebellions to suppress and no wars 
 to wage. 
 
 But he was severe in punishment, being compelled to use severity 
 owing to the instinctive ferocity of the natives. 
 
 A certain Mohammed Farak, chief of the Debba-el-Kobra 
 country, in the province of Dongola, being guilty of great offences, 
 was sentenced to the bastinado — a kind of punishment which has 
 always been in favour in Egypt. The condemned man obstinately 
 refused to beg for mercy, and suffered the strokes without com- 
 plaining. The Governor, seeing the copious flow of blood and the 
 numerous wounds, ordered the castigation to be stopped, when the 
 chief slowly stood up, and, drawing a knife from his pocket, began 
 to cut off the pieces of skin and flesh hanging from his wounds. 
 
 Abdul Latif, however, weary of the continual opposition to his
 
 SAID PASHA VISITS THE SOUDAN. 15 
 
 measures at Cairo, resigned his Governorship, and was succeeded 
 by Ali Pasha Kako (Monkey), who arrived at the Soudan with two 
 battalions which had returned from the Syrian campaign. These 
 troops had no band, and they accompanied the Arab song with the 
 guitar. 
 
 " Ya taiuia tamereteni, 
 
 Ya bent konti feni, 
 
 Kont and el ghendi 
 
 Bakol kalava kendi ; 
 
 Be nar el liabib, 
 
 Ya abou Ibrahim." 
 
 Which, being translated, means — 
 
 " O fruit, O fruit (my sweetness), 
 Where have you been, my girl? 
 I was with a gentle(man) 
 Eating Indian sweets. 
 With the fire of the beloved, 
 O Father of Ibrahim." 
 
 Ibrahim Pasha, the conqueror of Nessib, left Syria subsequent 
 to the coalition of the European Powers in favour of the Sultan. 
 A part of his troops was sent to the Soudan. The dialogue of the 
 song suggests the supposition that Mohammed Ali addresses the 
 question to the beautiful girl ; and that she answers, " I am going 
 to see my beloved Ibrahim, to eat Indian sweets, with the fire of 
 love." 
 
 These were the first Arab troops sent into the conquered 
 country. The first battalion, under Osman Bey El-Arnanti, was 
 despatched to Woad Medineh, and the other, under Ali Pasha 
 Sebastopol, to Kordofan ; the other places were always garrisoned 
 by Turkish troops. 
 
 Halim Pasha, son of the Viceroy, accompanied this expedition 
 on board a steamer, which was followed by a dahahuk, made of 
 iron ; but almost as soon as he arrived, cholera appeared in Khar- 
 toum, and be fled by way of Atmoor and Abu Hamad, and re- 
 turned to Cairo. Mohammed Ali died August 2, 1819, weak both 
 in mind and body, and was succeeded on the throne by Abbas 
 Pasha, who ruled the new provinces of the Soudan in a pacific 
 manner ; but his reign was short, for he died suddenly in 1854. 
 
 His successor was Said Pasha, sixth son of Ali. In March 1857 
 he visited Khartoum, and having acquainted himself with the 
 increasing difficulties in the Soudan, decided to abandon it. He 
 dissolved the military and civil administrations, sent away both 
 officials and soldiers, ordered the guns to be spiked, and the 
 muskets and ammunition to be thrown into the Nile ; but the 
 director of the magazines, a certain Kater Effendi, only obeyed a 
 part of these commands. The chiefs of the tribes, deeply regret- 
 ting this resolution, begged the Viceroy to continue the occupation, 
 which they considered henceforth indispensable to ensure the 
 public safety and jsroperty. The Viceroy, yielding to their prayer,
 
 1 6 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 reorganised tlie Government of the Soudan, and divided it into 
 four distinct provinces : Khartoum, under Arakel Bey, as Governor ; 
 Taka, or Kassala, under Elias Bey ; Berber, under Ibrahim Bey ; 
 and Kordofan, under Ali Pasha Sebastopol. Sennaar and Fazoklo 
 were made part of the province of Khartoum. 
 
 Said Pasha, after having ordered Colonel Osman Bey El-Sudani 
 to fight El-:Maki Xasser, a chief of the natives of the Tagle moun- 
 tains, returned to Egypt dCi Atmoor, Gabra, and the desert of 
 Gabra and Dongola. 
 
 The expedition to Tagle met a lamentable fate ; the colonel was 
 killed, and his troops defeated and put to flight. The survivors 
 took the route of Atmoor Bajada, passing through the Marsekute 
 country (ruled by the king Abd-el-Rahmaa-el-Schafi), and returned 
 to Egypt, via Wady Haifa. 
 
 The Mameluke, Moussa Pasha, formerly slave to Ahmed Pasha, 
 Abu Bedan was appointed Governor-General of the whole Egyp- 
 tian Soudan, and departed for Khartoum with five battalions of 
 soldiers, who received six months' pay in advance. These troops 
 were detailed to the garrisons of Khartoum, Woad ]\redineh, Sen- 
 naar, Fazoklo, Kordofan, Kassala, Mesalamieh, and El-Refaii. 
 
 The first care of this general (Mirmiran) was to organise the 
 country in military fashion. He formed ten new companies of 
 Soudanese soldiers, and five of Bashi-Bazouks, and ordered that 
 every tribe should hold a body of 500 men at his disposal, com- 
 pletely armed and equipped, with a spear, shield, arrow, and 
 sword, and mounted on an ox, horse, or camel. 
 
 As soon as this organisation was completed he resolved to invade 
 Abvssinia, in order to punish her for the molestations and usurpa- 
 tions perpetrated in territories under Egyptian protection. 
 
 News of the hostile actions of the Abyssinians had been brought 
 bv Ahmed Abu Ghemr (Father of the Devil), chief of the Hamada 
 B'^edouins. The concentration of the troops took place at Hantub, 
 near Woad Medineh. The march was forced and fatiguing, be- 
 cause it was necessary, not only to proceed quickly, but also to 
 settle detachments in provisional fortifications. The zeal of the 
 soldiers was increased by offensive songs about the Ethiopian king. 
 As soon as Moussa Pasha arrived at Om Derissa (on the road to 
 Gondar, in the Abu Ghemr country) he fortified himself on the 
 river Dender, and sent an ambassador to the King of Abyssinia ; 
 the Christian king did not answer, and then the expeditionary 
 army proceeded as far as Gellabat, whence other messages were 
 sent ; meanwhile the general, seeing the obstinate silence of the 
 Kassa, was taking measures for the invasion of the enemy's terri- 
 tory, when the news arrived of the death of Said Pasha and the 
 advent to the throne of Viceroy Ismail, in the year 1863 (1281, 
 Hegira). 
 
 A retreat was immediately decided upon ; it was full of long and
 
 MOUSSA PASHA. 17 
 
 fatiguing inarches ; deficiency of food and water ; deaths of sol- 
 diers and camels ; there were no rivulets, not even a marsh ; and 
 the dead camels were disembowelled, so as to appease the thirst of 
 the soldiers to some extent by the juices of the stomach. 
 
 Three hours after midnight they reached the small river El- 
 Ilahad ; in seven days, El-Sufi Mekerebba ; then a rest of three 
 days was granted, during which 101 gunshots were fired at the 
 five periods of the day— viz., Saljoh, Dohr, Assr, MagJirch, and 
 Uslia ; which mean daybreak, noon, afternoon, dusk, and evening. 
 
 From El-Sufi he sent a detachment of soldiers to scour the 
 country of Omar (son of King Nemr, the murderer of Ismail 
 Pasha) ; the land was devastated, but Omar saved himself by 
 flight, and the booty was, as usual, divided amongst the troops. 
 
 The small-pox having invaded the expeditionary army, Moussa 
 Pasha ordered the battalions to return to the places which they 
 had respectively occupied before the war : he himself stayed at 
 Kassala. 
 
 The epidemic over, Moussa Pasha returned to Khartoum through 
 Goz Ragab and Damer, from whence, after having arranged all the 
 urgent business of the province, he moved towards the Tagle 
 mountains. 
 
 But chauce was once more in favour of King Nasser ; rain, 
 pouring incessantly for four days, destroyed the ammunition and 
 endangered numerous diseases. A Janissary-Cavass, who ven- 
 tured to ascend the mountain was caught and cut to pieces. 
 
 The expedition returned to Khartoum, and the Governor jour- 
 neyed to Cairo, having been summoned there by the Viceroy. 
 
 Soon after Moussa Pasha's departure, a lack of discipline mani- 
 fested itself amongst the troops ; Ismail Bey Hakki's company, 
 which was posted at Kordofan, mutinied, under the pretence that 
 their pay was in arrear, and, not having obtained their object, the 
 soldiers took the road to Cairo ; they went in the direction of the 
 Blue Nile, laying waste all the villages they met with, and entered 
 Dongola ; supplied with provisions by the Governor, they took six 
 boats, bound the owners with chains and departed by Wady Haifa. 
 There they were met by Moussa Pasha, who was journeying to 
 Cairo, and the- whole number were arrested by him, by means of a 
 curious stratagem. He posted some faithful soldiers as salesmen 
 in a fictitious provision market, who, when the mutineers arrivea, 
 provoked quarrels, whereupon armed men suddenly appeared, 
 caught and bound them, and carried them off to Khartoum. 
 
 In the year 1863 (1281, Hegira), Moussa Pasha returned to 
 Khartoum, where he brought the first carriage ever seen in the 
 place ; only a short time previously four steamers had been sent 
 there. 
 
 Towards the end of the year, a great outbreak of small-pox 
 made its appearance there. Moussa Pasha ordered the troops to 
 
 B
 
 1 8 TEN YEARS IN E QUA TORI A . 
 
 pitch their camp in the open air and that the sick should be 
 treated by the medicines used by the natives ; the epidemic caused 
 great ravages, and the Governor was amongst its victims. 
 
 At that time a great disease amongst animals was prevalent in 
 Egypt, and the Soudan saw its cattle seized and carried off to the 
 north. 
 
 The Soudan having remained without a Governor for several 
 months, the soldiers of the province of Taka mutinied ; embittered 
 by the fact that the arrears promised and that were due to them, 
 had not yet been paid. They shot their ofhcers, pillaged the Govern- 
 ment storehouses, and sacked the town, perpetrating many violent 
 acts and atrocities. 
 
 Osman Bey Fakry, the Vice-Go vernor, being unable to suppress 
 the rebellion, Ismail Ayoub Pasha was entrusted with the difficult 
 task. He, together with Adam Pasha, Mouktar Aga, and Said 
 Aga, went to El-Taka, disarmed the mutineers, imprisoned their 
 leaders, and had them all executed without exception. Sakgol- 
 Agassi, an officer and the secret instigator of the mutiny, was 
 hanged later on, by order of Gaafar Pasha Mazaar ; the latter was 
 subsequently made Governor-General instead of Gaafar Pasha 
 Sadek, a worthless man, who only occupied himself with the 
 artificial incubation of hens' eggs. 
 
 The investiture of Mazaar's dignity was effected with great 
 solemnity, Schahin Pasha being despatched from Cairo for the 
 ceremony ; guardians of the peace {Mustahfazine) were instituted, 
 and the head men of the various tribes were invited to large and 
 costly banquets ; King Nasser from the Tagle mountains gave 
 himself up to the Egyptians; the gift offered by him in token of 
 submission was a large gold chain more than a yard long. 
 
 He was then led in triumph by Schahin to Cairo, and was over- 
 whelmed with presents and honours by the Viceroy ; a large estate 
 by the Nile, called Metuk (near Balo), was given to him, where he 
 lived till his death. 
 
 Gaafar ruled the Soudan for six years to the general satisfaction. 
 He protected and encouraged commerce, organised the adminis- 
 trative services, and initiated useful reforms. In 1864 (1283, 
 Hegira) he sent a number of animals, goods, and works of art to 
 Cairo, to be forwarded to the Paris Exhibition, according to a 
 wish expressed by the Viceroy Ismail. Amongst the exhibits was 
 the sacred bird, the ibis ; and included in the works of art were 
 some splendid specimens of silver filagree. Here I stop my retro- 
 spective review of the Egyptian conquest and occupation of the 
 Soudan. The epochs, concerning the deeds of Ismail Ayoub, Baker, 
 and Gordon, are so well known and have been so much commented 
 upon that it is superfluous to mention them here. General Gordon 
 returned about that time from his futile embassy to the King 
 of Abyssinia, and tendered his resignation to the new Khedive,
 
 A MAHOMMEDAN CONVERT. 19 
 
 Mohammed Tewfik Pasha, whereupon Giegler Pasha, the Vice- 
 Governor, assumed the direction of affairs in the Soudan. 
 
 In consequence of obstructions in the Nile, intercourse with tlie 
 southern provinces was interrupted, and nobody knew with cer- 
 tainty to what extent the works for reopening the river had 
 proceeded. 
 
 I called upon the Vice-Governor to acquaint him with my inten- 
 tion of departing. 
 
 " I cannot let you go," said Giegler. 
 
 " Why not, your Excellency?'' 
 
 " It is a peremptory order given by Gordon, and not yet re- 
 pealed." 
 
 "But I will not wait," I said, "for the arrival of the steamers 
 aud the opening of the White Nile. I will enter Kordofan through 
 the Bahr-el-Ghazal provinces. 
 
 " You shall do no such thing, and I advise you not even to try it. 
 I should be compelled to prevent you." 
 
 I withdrew. All surrounding circumstances pointed to radical 
 changes. In Cairo they were thinking of how to find a way of 
 embarrassing the Government of the Soudan ; whilst here they 
 were going on with a crippled administration, full of restrictions 
 and provisional measures, and undermined by mistrust. 
 
 Dr. Zucchinetti was expelled in the short space of three days, 
 being accused of plotting against the public safety. The engineer, 
 Messedaglia, formerly Governor of Darfur, had to submit to a 
 committee of inquiry, in order to give countenance to offensive 
 calumnies circulated about him. 
 
 The arrival of Raouf Pasha as Governor-General of the Soudan 
 did not diminish the general feeling of mistrust in the future. 
 Although apparently a friend to Europeans, he could neither win 
 their esteem nor appease the doubts and fears of the Arabs. 
 Devoid of initiative, even for evil-doing — more attentive to appear- 
 ances than realities, he allowed, nay, incited, the arousing of 
 religious rivalry and jealousy of race. 
 
 A young negro, formerly a pupil of the Catholic Mission, had 
 married a girl brought up in the same establishment ; but incom- 
 patibility of temper, with all its sad consequences, soon troubled 
 their domestic peace, and the husband expressed a desire to part 
 with his wife. The priest, to whom he had recourse for advice, dis- 
 approved of his irreligious intention, and insisted on the indissolu- 
 bility of the matrimonial vow. The unfortunate man went away, 
 more than ever afflicted ; but having been advised by some Aloham- 
 medans, after protracted reflection he decided to apostatise. 
 
 The conquest of this Christian by Mohammedism was celebrated 
 in the town by the most showy proceedings and clamour. The 
 converted man, having been placed upon a horse richly caparisoned, 
 dressed in the elegant clothes and embroideries of Arab garb, was
 
 20 
 
 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 led in triumph through the streets of the town, preceded by players 
 and dancers {faorati and r/avasi), and followed by dignitaries and 
 numberless people, besides being complimented and sumptuously 
 supplied with refreshments and gifts by the principal Mussulmans. 
 This ceremony, full of jeering at the unbelievers, was tolerated, 
 and perhaps applauded, by the official rulers. Times were going 
 from bad to worse. 
 
 At the time that General Gordon was Governor, several Euro- 
 peans settled in the Soudan to begin commercial operations. Be- 
 sides the Greeks and Syrians, who had important plantations in 
 Kedaref, Sennaar, and Kordofan, and actively carried on mercantile 
 contracts, a Frenchman, M. Marquet, started an industry at Khar- 
 toum which was quite new there — viz., the sifting of gums by 
 quality and thickness. This was done by the aid of a machine, 
 consisting of iron gauzes of different sizes, rolled into a cylinder, 
 
 and turned round by a handle; 
 a ventilator completed the 
 apparatus. For this business 
 he employed women and 
 children, who, under the 
 direction of Europeans, 
 worked with precision and 
 discipline. 
 
 But unfortunately con- 
 fidence was shaken. The 
 feverish excitement for com- 
 merce was cooling down ; the 
 idea of the unhealthiness of 
 the climate became para- 
 mount ; a few deaths caused 
 a panic, and many retraced 
 their steps. The young Pole, 
 Mirski, and the Italians, Mar- 
 coni, Buglione, andFraccaroli, 
 soon paid their tribute to 
 death. Poor Fraccaroli ! A 
 violent attack of malignant 
 fever ended his career, May 14, 1880, and the lamentations of the 
 colony accompanied him to the graye. Young, brave, strong, and 
 intelligent, he had proved his aptitude for African undertakings, 
 by having in a very short time completed the journey (to and fro, 
 midst numberless difficulties) between Khartoum and El-Fasher 
 (capital of Darfur) on camel-back, attended only by a boy twelve 
 years of age. 
 
 FRACCAEOLI.
 
 ( 21 ; 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 FROM KHARTOUM TO MESHRA-EL-REK. 
 
 I am able to embark — Brun RoUet — The missionaries — The brothers Poncet — 
 Miani — Tura-el-Hadra — Duemme — El-Koweh — The majestic Nile — The Bag- 
 geia — The island Abba and the future Prophet — Kaka and the Shillook — The 
 river Sobat — The delegates of the Society for the Suppression of the Slave 
 Trade — Bahr-el-Ghazal — Mosquitoes and wasps — Numerous hippopotami — 
 Scorpions — Mode of curing their bite — The Nuer — Their rivalry with the 
 Dinka — The river is closed by thick matted vegetation — Immense toil in 
 opening a road through it — Negro soldiers — Sixty-six obstructions — The 
 Balseniceps Rex — Troops of elephants — Arrival at Meshra-el-Rek. 
 
 It was a period of festivity at Khartoum ; first, on account of the 
 birth of a daughter to the Governor ; secondly, as the anniversary 
 of Tewfik Pasha's accession to the throne. Europeans were invited 
 to both of the solemnities, and were treated with distinction. 
 
 It was on this occasion that I had an opportunity of conversing 
 with Raouf Pasha, who endeavoured to dissuade me from my pro- 
 ject of visiting the province of Bahr-el-Ghazal, flattering me with 
 the hope and prospect of an exploration to be made into the region 
 of the River Sobat. Finally, after long delay and anxious expec- 
 tation, the order for the departure of the two steam- vessels was 
 given. 
 
 Having obtained a rescript from Raouf for the provinces of Bahi'- 
 el-Ghazal and Equatoria, I was able to embark, and the evening 
 of July 4, 1880, I bade adieu to my friends on board the steamer 
 Sophia^ and started for the White Nile. The first European who 
 ascended this grand river was an Italian (Brun Rollet), who, in 
 search of ivory, reached the country of the Bari, called afterwards 
 " Gillia," from their word of salutation, " Welcome," with which 
 they received travellers. 
 
 In 1851, the Catholic missionaries, who had resided in Khartoum 
 since 1848, established a branch house at Gondokoro, but they 
 were obliged to abandon it in 1861, both on account of the failing 
 health of its inmates, and the small success of their apostolate. 
 
 The groves of oranges and lemons, that still thrive there, are the 
 only records left of them in the traditions of the natives. 
 
 Our countryman, Miani, arrived at Dufile in the year 1857, and 
 four years afterwards the bx'others Poncet founded stations on the 
 Upper Nile. After Baker's expedition, it may be said that the 
 river was opened to the steamers of the Egyptian Government.
 
 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 AVe salaterl tlie flag of ]\roucliy Bey, passed ]\Iount Auel and Mon- 
 dora (the Mirror), and touched Tura-el-Hadra, which is on the way 
 
 to Kordofan (Duemrae), 
 where later on the Mahdists 
 baiTicaded the river with, 
 boulders and trunks of trees ; 
 then, leaving the summit of 
 the granite peak of Mount 
 Etuen, we touched at El- 
 Koweh, the northern bound- 
 ary of the Shillook tribe, 
 and the great emporium of 
 the slave trade. 
 
 The river is of great 
 width, and an immense mass 
 of water covers its muddy 
 bottom. It forms little islands 
 of greater or lesser size ; and 
 many creeks and inlets run 
 from the sides of the stream 
 into the land. 
 
 Nature at this spot pre- 
 sents a wild luxuriant growth 
 of vegetation and smiling 
 pictures of fertility. 
 
 The Nilotic acacia and 
 
 Ml AX I. . . . 
 
 various mimosa predominate 
 amongst the trees, mixed with palms and tamarinds ; extensive 
 plains are cultivated for grain, and there are verdant orchards, 
 irrigated by means of water- wheels ; vast tracts are covered with 
 vossia and papyrus. 
 
 Antelopes, numerous flocks of geese and ducks, and the crowned 
 crane, are seen or both shores, wandering in and out of their wind- 
 ings, or loitering on the grass of the islands, adding a new charm 
 to the scene. 
 
 Amongst the reptiles are great jDythons, coiled round the trunks 
 of the trees, that by thrusting out their heads add a contrast of 
 horror to the magniticence of the picture. 
 
 The Baggara, who inhabit these grassy regions, are a hand- 
 some people ; they keep flocks of oxen and cows, which have 
 humps on their backs. AVe arrived before the island Abba, 
 which nearly faces the territory of Koweh ; the steamer here 
 slackened speed, and the whistle of the engine blew four times 
 with a very prolonged sound; the captain, the crew of the 
 vessel, and the passengers offered prayers to God, turning towards 
 the island. 
 
 " What are they doing ? " I asked of a Greek merchant, who was
 
 A SHILLOOK WARRIOR
 
 THE FUTURE MAHDI. 23 
 
 sailing with us to the province of Bahr-el-Ghazal, to try his fate in 
 commerce, in which he had failed at Khartoum. 
 
 " They are rendei'ing homage to a holy man who dwells here ; 
 he is immortal, report says. Once already, without passing through 
 death, he has ascended to God, from whom he returned seven hun- 
 dred years ago." 
 
 The crew were saluting with reverence Mohammed Ahmed, the 
 future Mahdi, who was destined to cause so much strife in the 
 Soudan. He had for some time obtained immense influence over 
 the surrounding tribes ; even the Government treated him with 
 respect, and forbade the vessels passing the island from demanding 
 wood and other articles. 
 
 Michael Saad (a Copt), Chief Accountant of the Equatorial Pro- 
 vince, told me that when he was sailing up the stream in company 
 with the Egyptian expedition under Sir Samuel Baker, he with 
 others landed at the island Abba to pay their respects to the Santon. 
 Mohammed Ahmed received them very courteously, and, as is usual, 
 complimented them by offering them cau sucre and sweet milk ; 
 the recipients amounted to over forty ; every one drank to satiety, 
 notwithstanding which the contents of the cups were not in the least 
 diminished — a wonderfully miraculous performance, and a still 
 more wonderful credulity, in those who believed it. 
 
 The Shillook — once a powerful tribe, now reduced to decadence 
 by the malversation of Egyptian rule, and by the strict barriers 
 interposed to their extension by the Baggara — have lost strength, 
 influence, and the prestige arising from numbers. As breeders of 
 cattle they live in numerous villages of huts with circular roofs; 
 they are handsome and strong, but not very warlike, their courage 
 having been quelled by the repeated massacres of which their 
 country has been the theatre. 
 
 From El-Koweh to Fashoda the banks of the river are strewn 
 with scattered villages of dome-roofed huts belonging to this tribe ; 
 amongst them the most regularly built and the most picturesque is 
 Kaka, which had an Egyptian garrison. 
 
 The monotonous plain is broken by the gentle elevations of 
 Mount Tefefan. 
 
 Fashoda, the ancient Denab, until lately the seat of an Egyptian 
 Governorship, agreeably impresses the traveller ; it has houses of 
 bricks and lime, small but whitewashed, and a so-called castle and 
 Government palace, encircled by kitchen gardens and pleasure- 
 grounds. The population consists of Arabs, Shaighie and Donagla, 
 and there are a few Greek merchants. The natives live in villages 
 apart from the town. The supply of fuel for the needs of the 
 steamers is obtained from the shores of the Sobat, the banks of 
 this river being richer in woodlands than even those of the Nile. 
 When we had steahied for about two hours from the mouth of the 
 river, we came to an Egyptian station, commanded by a captain,
 
 24 
 
 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 whose duty it should have been to watch the slave caravans on this 
 road, in conjunction with a special Government delegate ; but I 
 was assured that the humane service had degfenerated into a 
 shameful and greedy traffic. 
 
 The territory through which the Sobat runs presents rich vege- 
 tation, very well cultivated fields, and rich pastures full of herds of 
 
 GIRL OF THE SHILLOOK TRIBE. 
 
 cattle. The river, a full stream of water, confined by lofty banks 
 bare of vegetation, and peopled by few and small villages, will be 
 at a not distant future the artery by which great riches, at present 
 enveloped in mystery, will descend from the country of the Galla. 
 
 Fashoda and the country round it possess a well-merited reputa- 
 tion for insalubrity of climate, especially during the rainy season,
 
 BAHR-EL-GHAZAL. 25 
 
 when its malarious fevers immolate many victims. They say, with 
 perfect conviction, that the Government has purposely founded 
 there a penitentiary establishment, to rid themselves quickly of 
 the troublesome existence of criminals and individuals thought 
 dangerous. 
 
 July 16, 1880. — Everything was ready for our departure : the 
 soldiers and provisions, long poles and plenty of rope, were em- 
 barked. We only waited the order to weigh anchor. After a long 
 delay, however, the delegate appointed to watch and prevent the 
 slave trade appeared on. board, followed by scribes and officials, for 
 the purpose of verifying and controlling the persons about to 
 depart. After he had minutely and with great care ascertained 
 every individual's name and occupation, including my own, he 
 informed us that the time for starting would soon arrive — a curious 
 mode of control, or rather a specimen of the imposture, which has 
 been thrust upon Europeans by the Egy]3tian Government. 
 
 The day before, a Greek merchant told me that the delegates' 
 largest gains proceeded at present from the sale of slaves to the 
 conductors of the caravans, who passed at a distance from the town 
 with impunity, sure of not being denounced. After I had sailed 
 for about two hours on the Nile, we arrived at a spot where the 
 river expanded into a vast sheet of water (or reach), of desolate 
 appearance ; then bending our course to the right, we reached 
 Bahr-el-Ghazal . 
 
 Here the scene is changed. There are no more grassy vegetation 
 and trees, no more villages and scattered huts, no more variety in 
 the surrounding landscape. The river is narrow, with very high 
 grass on both sides, marshy, and sprinkled everywhere with dark- 
 coloured pools of water — a silent, impressive uniformity. To the 
 wearisome annoyance of the innumerable mosquitoes, which allowed 
 us no rest during the night, there was added, from sunrise till noon, 
 a continual struggle against myriads of a species of wasp, called 
 Surcda, that with a rapid, tortuous, and incessant flight, darted at 
 and pricked and stung our faces, hands, and neck. It is true these 
 bites or stings are not serious, nevertheless the game is not a 
 diverting one. 
 
 Hippopotami are frequently to be seen in the river ; they lie in 
 groups, especially in the nearly still waters of the pools by the 
 banks, with their heads resting on the surface of the water. They 
 only emerged entirely at long intervals, and evidently watched us 
 as objects of curiosity, uttering a few occasional grunts. Several 
 shots saluted them from the steamer, but the animal that plunged 
 into the water for a moment reappeared very shortly, showing its 
 whole body, as if in defiance of our impotence. 
 
 The wood or fuel that had been put on board by the soldiers of 
 the military station at Sobat (for this office is one of the duties of 
 their service), had amidst it a dangerous enemy. From time to
 
 26 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 time loud cries were heard, then sobs, that ended in feeble and 
 continuous lamentations, which came from a soldier, one of the 
 crew, who had been bitten by a scorpion. This man, previously a 
 real braggadocio, merry and vigorous, suddenly fell under a pros- 
 tration of spirit produced by a fear which it was difficult to conceive. 
 The ordinary remedies were to cut the wound in order to draw out 
 the blood, and frequent application of a red-hot iron ; and this was 
 done by a merry Soudanese soldier, who had constituted himself an 
 impromptu surgeon for the occasion. To tell the truth, I laughed 
 at the duration of the groans of the bitten man, but later on, at the 
 river Kibali, I was bitten myself in the leg one night by one of 
 these implacable animals, and must, from my own experience, 
 retract the judgment that I had formed. During the twenty-four 
 hours of burning pain (which extended to my shoulders) my 
 thoughts often turned to the poor sufferer of the river Gliazal. 
 
 The country that we now passed through is peopled by the Nuer, 
 once a peaceful and amiable nation, but to-day jealous, timid, and 
 hostile. The frequent raids made on them by the slave dealers of 
 Khartoum have changed their feelings to hatred and animosity. 
 They are tall and well-formed, and do not wear clothes. They live 
 in huts situated on the little ridges of earth that rise from the 
 Avaters, and have numerous herds of goats, and are sufficiently 
 dexterous in conducting their very small boats amongst the reedy 
 fens and grass, amongst which they hide themselves, as soon as 
 observed, with surprising rapidity. They are rivals of the Dinka, 
 who dwell on their borders, and the enmity between these tribes 
 is kept up continually by hatred and a spirit of vengeance, that 
 leads to reciprocal attempts at bloodshed; a struggle ever increas- 
 ing and without cessation. To prolong our weariness and misery, 
 on the second day of our sailing an obstacle of a purely African 
 nature presented itself, which, although it had been foreseen on the 
 voyage, was nevertheless a disagreeable surprise. A network of 
 vegetation suddenly barred our passage, dense, elastic, and invari- 
 ably joined to the two opposite banks (of different depths), called 
 sal by the Arabs, composed of a great mass of weeds (amhatsJi), 
 papyri (dis), and of vossia (sufa). To endeavour to stpam over it 
 generally results in failure. The wheels and the prow get entangled 
 in the mass of herbage of which it is composed, and do not cut 
 through it ; the steamer remains fixed, and it is impossible to 
 manoeuvre her. Patience, labour, and strength, when simultane- 
 ously exerted, produce a prompt and favourable result. 
 
 " Handle the scythes and put the poles into the water, and free 
 the wheels from the weeds."' The obedient soldiers with great 
 promptitude and the greatest vigour attempted to carry out the 
 order by cutting the mass of herbage and pushing the great heaps 
 of it along the current, those behind them aiding their exertions, 
 by standing on the bulwarks of the vessel and thrusting with their
 
 OBSTRUCTION ON THE RIVER. 
 
 27 
 
 long poles ; every movement 
 being simultaneous and ac- 
 companied and guided by the 
 loud and soft sounds of a /-" 
 song. 
 
 " Dur," cried the captain, 
 and their labour ceased for a 
 moment; then they were 
 oi'dered to repeat their efforts 
 till the steamer was released. A unani- 
 mous and triumphant shout of joy wel- 
 comed the captain's command to resume 
 our course over the freed waters. We 
 were blocked in this manner sixty-six 
 times in the course of seventeen days, 
 for thus long it took us to arrive at the 
 end of our journey. I had followed the 
 work attentively, and was pleased with 
 the self-denial of the blacks, who, in spite 
 of being treated harshly and without 
 praise, were always diligent, obedient, 
 and contented. L' Abu Markitb (Father 
 of the Shoe), the " Balteniceps Rex," 
 showed itself in rare cases ; these birds 
 are remarkable for their immense size 
 and the original form of their beaks. 
 
 The river continued in- 
 creasing in width, and in the 
 meadows bordering it were 
 immense troops of ele- 
 phants. 
 
 The cries of the soldiers 
 and the whistle of the engine 
 disturbed the placid feeding 
 of the large pachyderms, 
 who, terrified at our visit and 
 the unusual noise, took pre- 
 cipitate flight. I could never 
 have believed in the rapidity 
 of action and velocity of such 
 large animals ; one of them 
 always remained at a dis- 
 tance, as sentinel, to watch 
 those whom they supposed 
 and feared to be ene- 
 
 We arrived at — "p^ 
 
 K^^ii":- 
 
 mies 
 
 Bahr-el-Arab and El- 
 
 THE BAL.liNICEPS KEX.
 
 28 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 Homr on the 31st, and contemplated the extensive woods that 
 shade this part of the country. On the 4th of August, after having 
 left the river Jur behind us, we arrived on the oth at Meshra-el- 
 Rek, the landing-place of the tribe. 
 
 During our voyage from Khartoum to Meshra-el-Rek, the tem- 
 perature in the shade reached an average of 23'' C. at 6 a.m. ; 
 30' C. at 9 A.M. ; 35° C. at 12 noon ; 36° C. at 3 p.m. ; 27° C. at 
 9 P.M. 
 
 Out of the thirty-six days of the whole journey we registered 
 sixteen rainy ones.
 
 ( 29 ) 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 WITH MY FRIEND GESSI. 
 
 A letter from Gessi — The station of Meshra-el-Rek — The Dinka, their usages and 
 customs ; cultivation, care, and regard for serpents — Extensive rearing of 
 herds and flocks — -The Arabs and Gessi ; he is beloved by the good and hated 
 by the wicked — Songs and dances — The elephant and the cock — Continual 
 expansion of the Dinka tribe — Nineteen days of waiting^Arrival of the mules — 
 The villages on the road— Fertility of the soil — A wild vine — The river Momul — 
 Arrival at Jur Gattas — The River Jur — Kutchuk-Ali and the cotton plantations 
 around it — The two branches of the Jur — Great numbers of crocodiles — 
 Meeting with Gessi — A short account of the campaign by Gessi against 
 Solyman, the 17th Jul}', 1870 — Shooting of Solyman and the rebel chiefs — 
 Opening of the river Jur to navigation — ^Incipient prosperity — King Mdarama 
 of the Sandeh — Visit of his brother to Wau — Gessi decides to go to Khartoum 
 — His projects — -The die is cast. 
 
 On the evening of my arrival at Meslira-el-Rek, the chief of the 
 district delivered me a letter from Gessi, in which he told me that 
 precise orders had been given on my behalf for the speedy journey 
 to Wau ; I was rejoiced at this news, which I trusted would take 
 me from the shore of this river, scattered over as it was by sloughs 
 and desolated by damp and bad air. Occasionally walking, and 
 sometimes riding on a nice little ass, kindly lent me by the com- 
 mander of the soldiers, I by these means reached the Government 
 station amongst the Dinka Rek in a few hours. 
 
 But the Arab chief, reading Gessi's letter in a contrary sense, 
 persuaded me, with courteous insistance and beguiling words, to 
 await the escort that would be sent to meet me ; I was obliged to 
 acquiesce, though I did so against my will rather than from con- 
 viction. He installed me in a clean and well-sheltered hut, and I 
 prepared myself for a trial of patience. 
 
 The Dinka race, formed by numerous tribes, each distinct from 
 the other in variety of customs and usages, is composed of people 
 of a mild disposition, but fierce h-unters of wild beasts ; timid when 
 brought into contact with strangers ; handsome, having vigorous 
 limbs ; swift runners, and handling the lance and bow with sur- 
 prising skill. They do not form a political unity, properly so 
 called, but live under a patriarchal rule in villages, governed by a 
 chief, who has hereditary rights. Their dwellings are composed 
 of straw huts, with conical roofs ; they are large and scrupulously 
 clean. The men cover themselves with a goat-skin fastened round 
 the waist, but many go completely nude ; the women, on the
 
 30 TEN YEARS IN E QUA TORI A . 
 
 contrary, when grown up, always wear two skins fastened to the 
 waist, which cover the body to the knee. At night they lie down 
 upon a bed made of ashes, either in order to protect themselves 
 from the bites of the numerous mosquitoes, or to diminish the effect 
 of the low temperature. This has a strange and surprising effect, 
 and in the morning causes one to shudder at the sight of these long 
 whitened spectres. Their custom is to pierce their ears in several 
 
 GIKLS OF THE DINKA TRIBE. 
 
 places, and to insert small iron rings ; the men wear ivory bracelets, 
 and the women iron waistbands and anklets. As is the custom 
 among very many other tribes, they extract two incisors from their 
 lower jaw ; they seldom eat meat, and absolutely refuse the flesh of 
 the hippopotamus, crocodile, and rat, but in joreference feed on 
 milk and farinaceous food ; they drink beer, made of Indian millet ; 
 and a dish of wheaten flour mixed with butter, honey, and milk is 
 deservedly popular amongst them. They have no salt ; butter is 
 made in a peculiar manner ; the milk, after standing, is put into a 
 great gourd (shell), the opening of which is closed and fastened up, 
 and some one seated, as a rule, upon a little stool, shakes the shell 
 with both hands from right to left, beating it on the knees with a 
 uniform and systematical movement ; the operation takes some 
 time, and the butter is separated from the milk in clots of greater 
 or lesser size. 
 
 As regards cleanliness, in everything that concerns the prepara- 
 tion of food, the Dinka are absolutely exemplary. It is from the 
 blacks that grain usually comes, ground in a mortar by means of a 
 wooden pestle ; the women who are employed in this fatiguing
 
 PET SERPENTS. 
 
 31 
 
 work are always compelled to keep their hands damp ; this is done 
 by expectorating first on one hand, and then on the other. 
 
 The Dinka women, on the contrary, make use of water, which 
 is always placed near them in a vessel. In this very fatiguing 
 labour the worker becomes enveloped in perspiration, and then 
 the work is taken up by another, so as to give time for the first 
 to diy herself and wash her body. The vessels that are used for 
 cooking and those necessary for food are cleaned every time with 
 great care ; if a woman is asked for anything, or to do a service, 
 she first of all proceeds to wash her hands. 
 
 When a man goes out of the village he always takes a lance with 
 him ; when at home he uses a small ebony club. They have an 
 especial regard for serpents, for in nearly every house some of 
 
 SEKPEXT-FEEDING BY THE DINKA. 
 
 them are to be met, generally pythons, boldy reposing and coiled 
 up ; the tameness of the reptiles, which are fed upon milk, even 
 reaches the point of answering the calls and signs of the house- 
 wife. 
 
 The Dinka are polygamists ; the woman is obtained from her 
 father by payment. The number of wives depends upon the wealth 
 of the husband, and those who are not well ofi" content themselves 
 with one wife. The first wife is mistress of the house : she rules 
 it, watches over and directs the labours of the field, and provides 
 wood and water, and sees to the cleanliness of the cow and goat 
 pens. 
 
 The cows are shut up in an enclosure surrounded by pales, each
 
 32 
 
 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 Tobacco-pouch, made 
 of bark and skins, to 
 be carried round 
 the neck. 
 
 Ivory ring for males, 
 worn on the upper 
 part of the arm. 
 
 Club, used also as a 
 seat. 
 
 A stick, with a cavity 
 in the knob for to- 
 bacco. 
 
 5. A club. 
 
 6. Head of a lance. 
 
 7. 8, 9, 10. Shields and 
 bows, to parr}- club 
 blows. 
 
 Alarm-bell, 6 ft. 6 in. 
 
 (2 metres) long. 
 Water jar, 4 feet (i"3 
 
 metre) high. 
 Helmet. 
 14. Huts.
 
 THE DINKA TRIBE. ZZ 
 
 fastened to a little stake driven into the ground ; they are so 
 accustomed to this, that upon their return from pasture each one 
 places herself by the post assigned to her, waiting to be secured. 
 The calling of the animals together is generally done by beating 
 drums, and they readily answer to the signal. 
 
 The proprietor oi many herds generally lives away from his 
 family residence, and only visits it occasionally. Upon his an-ival 
 he plants his spear in front of one of the huts, the female occupiers 
 of which consider themselves honoured, and assume the charge 
 of providing food for the owner of the spear, who becomes their 
 guest. 
 
 The Dinka generally cultivate Indian millet, beans, gourds, 
 sesame, and tobacco ; they rear poultry and small dogs, which are 
 good and faithful guardians of their houses. 
 
 In conversations that I had, whether with the head of the 
 Government station, soldiers, or the upper classes of the tribes 
 inhabiting the surrounding villages, the favourite theme on every 
 lip at that time was the exploits of our Gessi. 
 
 The pith of the replies was that he was beloved and feared by 
 the greater part of the native population, but that the Arab 
 element, apparently obsequious and respectful, were brooding over 
 secret rancour, and meditating future vengeance. 
 
 The liberation of slaves and the capture of many bands of slave- 
 dealers, the importance given to the chiefs of the country on one 
 side, and the depression indicted on the authority and arrogance 
 of the Arabs, and the incessant persecution of their infamous traffic 
 on the other, formed a mass of facts so clear and striking that of 
 necessity it led to this conclusion — viz., Gessi was beloved by the 
 Negi'oes, and hated by the Arabs and their allies. Praise be to 
 him who knew how to win the love of the good and the hatred of 
 the wicked. 
 
 In the long evenings I sometimes was present at songs and 
 dances, generally animated by a warlike spirit. Seated before a 
 crackling fire of not too well-dried wood, they sang, led by the 
 chief (holding a lance in the right hand and the shield in the left), 
 a song in strophes, interspersed with resounding choruses of mas- 
 culine robustness. At a given signal the whole body, each indi- 
 vidual putting himself into a commanding attitude, rose and 
 marched, as though ready to throw himself upon an enemy, hold- 
 ing the shield as if in defence, and raising the lance in the right 
 hand as in the act of striking ; the right leg and the body advanced 
 recalled the impetus of the soldiers who were about to charge the 
 foe ; a final cry or shout, with all the strength of their lungs in 
 unison, completed the performance. 
 
 One of my pleasant occupations during my sojourn amongst the 
 Dinka was listening to the relation of those fables which are 
 handed down by oral tradition — the literature (so to speak) of the 
 
 c
 
 34 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 people, and which characterise and put in evidence their intellectual 
 and moral qualities, often falsely judged and wrongly appreciated 
 on account of their savage exterior. 
 
 Troublesome events were the cause, later on, of my losing some 
 of my notes (a lot of fables), obtained from the lips of some 
 Negroes belonging to the principal races that I met ; the foolish 
 and cruel suspicion of a king thought them worthy of the funeral 
 pile. I remember, however, amongst many others, a characteristic 
 one, entitled 
 
 The ElepJiant and the Cock. 
 
 " Once upon a time, there was a challenge between an elephant 
 and a cock as to which could continue eating the longest. They 
 met at an appointed spot and set to work ; about noon, the ele- 
 phant, whose hunger was satisfied, lay down to rest ; he awoke 
 after several hours' sleep, and with great surprise observed the 
 cock still scratching and pecking amongst the grass. He then 
 again began to eat in the pasture, but once more he was satisfied 
 and retired, still leaving (with growing astonishment) the cock 
 eating. The sun was near setting, when the cock jumped upon 
 the elephant's back, who had been lying down for some time; soon 
 after the elephant felt his skin pecked. 
 
 '' ' AVhat are you doing ? ' said he, half frightened. 
 
 " ' Nothing. I am only seeking the insects that are in your 
 bristles.' 
 
 " The great pachyderm, terrified at such persistent voracity, rose, 
 and fled as if he were mad ; from that day the elephant flees when- 
 ever he hears the cock crow." 
 
 Belief in this story is so firmly rooted in the minds of the 
 Dinka, that they provide themselves with a cock every time they 
 make a journey by night. 
 
 The great family of the Dinka extends over a very vast territory 
 and increases its conquests every year. At the present day it is 
 already established on the lower course of the Sobat, and has 
 touched the confines of the region of the Bari. 
 
 August 19, 1880. — At last I am released from the weariness of 
 a disagreeable sojourn. 
 
 I left here, with the escort and the saddle-animals sent for me, 
 and directed my course to the south-west. The road was tolerably 
 good, but being the rainy season, it was inundated in many places, 
 which were stagnant occasionally on account of the uncultivated 
 state of the soil and the lack of convenient declivities for drain- 
 age. 
 
 Sometimes one was in water up to the waist, and often we were 
 partly submerged for some hours. 
 
 Villages are frequently encountered which are entirely inhabited
 
 JUR GATTAS. 35 
 
 by Dinka, who, after the war with Solyman Bey, were induced to 
 take up their abode and labour with confidence. 
 
 One may say that agriculture is in its infancy in these lands 
 and the surrounding villages, but the cultivation of Indian millet, 
 tobacco, and vegetables is carried on to a tolerable extent. 
 
 The poultry, the numerous flocks of sheep and goats, and the 
 remarkable quantity of larger cattle, attest the riches and the 
 prosperity of the tribe ; the soil is fertile and adapted to every kind 
 of culture. They assert that salts are required in the soil — an idle 
 complaint. 
 
 Continual activity, rational manuring, and still more, the con- 
 tact of the glebe with the external air, assure to this land an 
 enviable prosperity. 
 
 I chanced to taste some good wild grapes on this road, and 
 afterwards found them abundant in other regions, especially in the 
 countries of Kibali and Bomokandi. This is a plant that dries up 
 near the surface of the soil, and the grapes on the upper part 
 never ripen simultaneously. 
 
 It took us five days to reach the station of Jur Gattas, pass- 
 ing every night in villages, abundantly supplied with necessaries, 
 owing to the care of the people who accompanied us, and the object 
 of the greatest attentions from the chiefs. 
 
 The road, which for the first two days ran through open and 
 grassy plains, plunged, on the third, into a slightly wooded region, 
 sometimes broken by cultivation in the neighbourhood of the 
 dwellings. An arm of the Momul, which falls into the river 
 Gliazal, is the only watercourse that is met, and this can be forded 
 at all seasons. 
 
 Gattas, a merchant of Khartoum, who enriched himself by the 
 purchase of white ivory, and still more so by that of black (as the 
 slave traffic is still commonly called in the Soudan), was the 
 founder of the village which at present bears his name ; it is 
 situated in a fertile plain, inhabited by tribes of the Jur nation, 
 who are strong and robust, but not possessed of the special quali- 
 ties that characterise the Dinka. The soil, besides the ordinary 
 productions of the region, was enriched in the course of years by 
 the introduction of bananas. 
 
 I granted a day's rest to the mules, which were weary owing to 
 the roughness of the road, aud then directed my journey to AVau, 
 where Gessi at that time had taken up his residence. 
 
 I was two days on the road, between flower-decked villages, 
 broken by the course of the river Jur, which abundantly waters 
 this flat and luxuriant country. 
 
 The village of Kutchuk-Ali is distinguished by its extensive 
 cultivation of trees yielding cotton of the greatest whiteness and 
 delicacy, and, they say, a strong and fine thread. 
 
 The river Jur is formed of two distinct branches, which, proceed-
 
 2,(^ TEN YEAI^S IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 ing from the soutli, reunite at a short distance from the north of 
 Kutchuk-Ali and Wau, in one single current, that falls into the 
 river (iliazal in the neighbourhood of Meshra-el-Rek. The waters 
 flow perennially, and the passage across is made in boats formed 
 of the hollowed trunks of trees ; it has an evil reputation of jaos- 
 sessing a great number of crocodiles. 
 
 On the morning of the twenty-sixth day (August 1880) of our 
 journey on the river, Gessi was awaiting me on the opposite bank, 
 surrounded by public officials and a goodly number of curious 
 peojjle ; I picked him out by his white beard and grave, almost 
 unhealthy, face. I crossed over in a boat, sent for me, under a 
 
 JIEETING AVITH GESSI. 
 
 discharge of muskets, 
 fired to drive away the 
 crocodiles and protect 
 the passage of the mules. 
 He received me very 
 courteously^ and affably. 
 
 " You have delayed your arrival too long," he said ; " I have 
 been impatiently awaiting you." 
 
 " The delay has been no one's fault," I explained ; " the distance 
 that I covered from the station of Meshra-el-Rek is such that I 
 really believe that I could not have arrived before to-day." 
 
 '• That is not so ; three months ago the chief had strict orders to 
 send you on as soon as you arrived ; it is strange that after so 
 many letters he did not understand my desire, and the danger you 
 were in of malaria in such a valley as that of the Rek." 
 
 " Have patience for the j^resent, and another time I will do 
 better," said I. 
 
 We proceeded to the station, and in a short time were friends ; 
 we talked and asked questions which elicited frank replies, but 
 sometimes a cload of grief darkened his countenance, recent letters 
 having acquainted him with the death of a dear son of his.
 
 GESSI PASHA. 
 
 37 
 
 Gessi was the first and most diligent explorer of the Albert 
 Lake, which he circumnavigated with two iron boats. 
 
 Watson and Chippendale, who had been sent by Gordon to sail 
 
 GESSI PASHA. 
 
 up the Nile from Dufile, had not yet succeeded in reaching the 
 Lake ; the first did not go father than Wadelai ; and the second 
 who arrived was alarmed by several cases of small- pox breaking
 
 38 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 out amongst his followers, and so returned to Dufile, whence with 
 Watson, he took the road to Europe. 
 
 In 1878, Gessi after reiterated entreaties made to him by Junker, 
 accepted from Gordon the charge of repressing the revolution, ex- 
 cited by Solyman, the son of Zebehr Pasha. 
 
 In the month of December he left Rumbeck with about 3000 
 men, of whom only a third part were regular troops ; the remainder 
 were volunteers and freed slaves. The territory was devastated by 
 Solyman's men in their retreat, the boats were broken up, pro- 
 visions burnt ; the rivers were at their fullest flood, but on the ] 5th 
 of the same month Gessi's little army encamped at Wau, in pos- 
 session of the course of the Jur, and supported by a solid base of 
 operations. Solyman was obliged to remain on the defensive. 
 
 The day of vengeance had arrived for the people ; the Negroes 
 rose against their oppressors, and the infamy of the slave-traders 
 was washed out in blood ; those taken in the act of rebellion were 
 shot. In the middle of December, Gessi occupied and fortified 
 Dem Idris ; he conquered the enemy repeatedly, in spite of being 
 scantily provided with powder and shot. Fever broke out amongst 
 the already decimated troops, but he was not discouraged, he re- 
 doubled his energy and vigilance ; and receiving some ammunition, 
 boldly assumed the offensive in March, fighting and disorganising 
 the troops of Solyman ; he took possession of Dem Solyman, 
 which was sacked ; the Gellaba fugitives committing great slaughter 
 amongst the slaves. 
 
 Solyman tried to join the Harun rebels, who, pursued by Messe- 
 daglia and Emiliani, had halted on the strong position of Mount 
 Marra. 
 
 The situation became more and more difficult ; the troops were 
 divided by the Arab river, in full and extraordinary flood. Gordon 
 was very active but ignorant as to the whereabouts of Soljmian ; 
 Gessi and Messedaglia met at Darra, and agreed to a simultaneous 
 course of operations. 
 
 After fatiguing marches amongst woods, in torrents of rain, and 
 across desert lands, Gessi surrounded the village of Gora, in which 
 Solyman was encamped, with about 300 soldiers. The surprise 
 was complete ; called on to surrender when their whole camp was 
 immersed in sleep, the discomfiture was general, few thought of de- 
 fending themselves, and some remained motionless, while others fled. 
 
 The hour that closed this heroic epic was also the hour of 
 vengeance. 
 
 It was the morning of July 17, 1879, when Solyman, having 
 been taken prisoner, had endeavoured to fly in the night with some 
 of his faithful followers, but was recaptured and put to the sword. 
 The same fate befell five of the princijDal chiefs. And here I quote 
 the particulars of this execution from the inedited memoirs of Gessi 
 that are awaiting publication in Milan.
 
 
 /M ~ 
 
 FRANCESCO EMILIANI.
 
 DEFEAT OF SO LYMAN. 
 
 39 
 
 The herald sent to treat for the surrender presented himself to 
 the rebels, and ordered them, in the name of the Pasha, to pile 
 their arms in the centre of the encampment and to surrender at 
 discretion. Solyman agreed ; and in groups of ten and twelve the 
 slave-dealers advanced towards Gessi, and laid down their arms. 
 There were about 1600 of them, and only about 250 of the Pasha's 
 
 troops. Their arms hav- 
 ing been given up, Soly- 
 man presented himself, 
 bound, to Gessi, and ex- 
 pressed his surprise and 
 grief at having yielded to 
 a handful of men. 
 
 " Allah was with you, 
 and has abandoned me ! 
 I thought you had as- 
 sembled all your troops." 
 " Allah," replied Gessi, " punishes the guilty ; and such you are, 
 from your infamous conduct. I give you your life, and shall send 
 you to Khartoum to his Excellency Gordon, who will consider how 
 to punish you ; and your chiefs will follow you. ' 
 
 But in the night, Solyman and his faithful followers endeavoured 
 
 MOCXT MARRA.
 
 40 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 to escape, and the Pasha was compelled to put him to death, as it 
 was impossililc for 250 men to guard ]60(). 
 
 Afterwards Emiliani took the rebel chief Harun, and had him shot. 
 
 The struggle against the slave-trade made for the redemption 
 
 of the black pojiulation, and heroically conducted, unites the 
 
 names of our illustrious fellow-citizens Gessi, Messedaglia, and 
 
 Emiliani in history with the immortal name of Gordon. 
 
 The circumstances are too recent for us to be able to form a dis- 
 passionate and definitive judgment, but it can henceforth be said, 
 that if the direction and the means used were not very politic, it is 
 certain that the enterprise was eminently humanitarian, and accom- 
 plished in the name and for the triumph of civilisation. Three of 
 these illustrious men are reunited in death ; the fourth participated 
 gloriously iu the terrible struggles that devastated and stained the 
 Soudan with blood. 
 
 Gessi was a man distinguished by a sagacious initiative, tenacity, 
 and an intelligent activity. He tried to effect, by admirable deeds, 
 the regeneration of the country confided to his government ; estab- 
 lished order and tranquillity by the means best adapted to guarantee 
 security for the person and property of the people ; and adopted 
 means also for developing and improving the resources of the 
 country, and laid the first rudiments of education. 
 
 To ivory, which is the only certain production of these countries, 
 he added the harvest of tamarinds, that of india-rubber, and {by 
 selection from the very rich forests) wood for the construction of 
 boats. He opened the river Jur for navigation up to its confluence, 
 cleansing it from the papyrus and grass that impeded the passage, 
 and thereby conferring a great benefit on the natives, who had 
 been obliged to serve as beasts of burden. He formed free and 
 prosperous agricultural colonies with slaves whom he had taken 
 from the Gellaba, and these, besides the usual cultivation, are very 
 successful in sowing cotton. 
 
 What now' remains of so much generosity ? What benefit was 
 derived from it ? The Egyptians have broken up and ruined 
 everything, and the blacks embraced the ]\Iahdist cause. 
 
 During my sojourn in Wau, the brother of the Sultan Mdarama, 
 chief of an extensive territory inhabited by the Sandeh or Niam- 
 Niam,* came to pay his respects to Gessi, with a numerous follow- 
 ing of dignitaries and a hundred loads of ivory, and announced 
 that his brother would shortly come in person, being desirous to 
 continue friendly relations. Zambara, who might be a man of 
 twenty-five years of age, was of regular features and dark olive 
 complexion, middle height, well-proportioned limbs, with a small 
 mouth and not thick lips; boasting of plaited hair, adorned with 
 large beads. He wore a necklace of seeds of wild fruit ; his head 
 
 * tSancleh is the native uame. It is called Niam-Niam bv the Arabs.
 
 
 ^:''
 
 GESSI DECIDES TO GO TO KHARTOUM. \i 
 
 was covered witli a monkey-skin cap, from which hung a thick 
 bunch of cock's feathei's, that made him known as a chief of 
 warriors at a glance. He was girt about the waist with a thick 
 cord, to which was fastened a linen skirt, made from the broken 
 bark of a fallen tree ; it covered his body to the knees, and one 
 corner of it was tucked up. The natives ran to gaze upon the 
 brother of the valiant Mdarama, who had repulsed and driven back 
 all the invasions that had been attempted upon his territory. 
 They related how the troops of Awad, of Abugorum and Kutchuk- 
 Ali, with a force of quite 2000 men, with more than 800 rifles, 
 had tried by a gi'eat effort to seize that country. But Mdarama, 
 being warned in time, found means to fall upon the invaders, 
 whom he almost completely defeated, and in the conflict the chiefs 
 Awad and Abugorum lost their lives. Other future attempts were 
 fruitless. 
 
 The terrible Solyman himself, hankering after these rich lands, 
 sought to gain his object by pacific and gentle means, which were 
 always rejected by the king of the Sandeh. 
 
 Soon after the death of Solyman, calm succeeded the fear which 
 until then had affected the population. 
 
 Mdarama hastened to send an embassy to the conqueror with 
 rich gifts, mainly with the idea of ascertaining the truth of the 
 marvellous news, that Solyman had been conquered by a troop of 
 250 warriors. 
 
 The embassy was brought to Dem Solyman, where it was 
 received with great joy and festivity, and loaded with rich recipro- 
 cal gifts. He returned to his own country, after having given 
 solemn promises that he would preserve relations of good friend- 
 ship and alliance with the Egyptian Government. 
 
 Gessi at this time was invited to go to Khartoum to confer 
 with the new Governor, General Raouf Pasha. He was unable 
 to form a decided conception of the importance of this visit; 
 he could not make up his mind to go, for he was tormented by 
 the idea that during his absence order in his province might be 
 disturbed. 
 
 "It is necessary,"' said he, one day to me, "that I should go 
 to Khartoum." 
 
 " For what purpose ?" 
 
 " Well, on business, or, as they say, to see how matters stand 
 with the Pasha. The Government must cease monopolising all the 
 products of the Soudan. The civilisation of the people mast be 
 gained by free trade and their complete regeneration will accrue. 
 The Government will be the gainer. The people will rise to the 
 situation ; money will find its use ; industries will be carried on 
 with alacrity ; and with the building of factories, these provinces, 
 in a short number of years, will become the gem of Egyptian 
 possessions."
 
 42 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 " But Raouf is not the man to allow himself to be draAvn into 
 such a path, and Giegler and Marcopolo are opposed to it, either 
 from conviction or interested motives," I observed. 
 
 " I do not fear them ; if Raouf will not listen to me, I will 
 make my voice heard at Cairo,' said C4essi. 
 
 "The Khedive will have the best intentions in the world, but 
 his Ministers and influential persons will never permit the least 
 offence to be given to Mussulman feeling. Whilst they depend 
 on a Turkish Government, the blacks will never have their rights, 
 privileges, or justice." 
 
 " Then I would send in my resignation ; with regret, I admit, 
 but propriety would demand it ; my position would be too humiliat- 
 ing ; my dignity would never permit me to remain the jailer of 
 the people that the Government held in subjection for its ex- 
 clusive advantage. I would return " to my family, which needs 
 all my care and affection since the recent grief that has over- 
 whelmed us."' 
 
 His departure being decided on it was useless to discuss it 
 further. 
 
 " And when do you intend leaving ? "' I asked. 
 
 " As soon as possible, when the soldiers and provisions are 
 assembled at Meshra-el-Rek.'" 
 
 "Then permit me once more to advise you to goto Lado and 
 thence embark for Khartoum. I repeat to you that the number 
 of obstacles that block the river and delayed my voyage will be 
 a more serious impediment to you, who instead of ascending are 
 descending the current, and you must know that the Amhatsh 
 are especially a hindrance to one's progress when they follow 
 the steamers, while when ascending the rivers we leave them 
 behind. ■ 
 
 " That fact does not worry me ; I have plenty of men, more 
 than sufficient for the work, and ample corn." 
 
 "Very well. I will not trouble you any more, you seem so 
 determined about the matter." 
 
 " I confess it ; but, believe me, I could, but will not, descend 
 to Lado." 
 
 It was settled that we should leave "VVau for Jur Gattas in the 
 month of September 1880.
 
 ( 43 ) 
 
 CHAPTEE I\'. 
 
 GESSI'S DEPARTURE. 
 
 The Negro soldiers of the Soudan— Trials made of them at Messico, in the Unj'oro, 
 and in the region of the Jnr — Soudanese soldiers in the German service — The 
 soldiers of Eqnatoria send a deputation to Dr. Peters — Enemies to Mahdism — 
 Their defects — Departure from Wau — First attacks of Fever — Serious illness 
 — I am given immense doses of quinine — Last farewell to Gessi — Public order 
 is overthrown — Sati Effendi, the Deputy Governor — March to Rumbek — 
 The rivers Tong and Jau — The torrent Mar — The Dongolese — The villages 
 Tong, Gog-el-Hassan, and Gog Moutkar — The village of Rumbek — Peculiarity 
 of its architecture — The tribe Dinka of Atot and Gog — Their rivalry with the 
 neighbouring Jur — Mohammed Mula, chief of the district — The base of opera- 
 tions against the slave-dealers — Productions of the soil — Nuptial Ceremonies. 
 
 One day, on our return from witnessing the drill of the troops, I 
 asked Gessi his opinion of the Negro soldier. 
 
 " He is an excellent one," he replied, " if he is well led. Strong, 
 patient, and courageous, one may do miracles with him ; but if 
 left to himself, he is careless or worse, and, if ill-treated, he may 
 become a dangerous element in the army." 
 
 His description was most accurate. I have seen Egyptian 
 soldiers at Berber and Khartoum, and have also observed 
 Soudanese soldiers in the latter garrison, and they inspired me 
 with a feeling of disgust : impudent, and without discipline, un- 
 used to fatigue, devoted to beer and every sort of licence, they are 
 without the first principles of military training ; and I had formed 
 a strong opinion from them that the Negro as a soldier was worth- 
 less. My judgment erred ; I had not distinguished the gold that 
 mingles with the dross. I have now modified my opinion, and 
 fully recognise the excellent military qualities that distinguish the 
 Soudanese. 
 
 The Negro soldier was formerly entered in the same regiment 
 as the slaves whom the Government bought, and afterwards, when 
 the war was over, retained in slavery for its own benefit ; he was 
 consequently despised by the Egyptian and Turkish troops, and 
 his life passed in constant humiliation. Events changed ; the 
 Turkish troops were withdrawn from Egypt, political necessity 
 calling for their services in Turkey. The moral "superiority of the 
 Negro, and his physical strength and valour, then became 
 apparent, freed him from degrading associations, and won for him 
 the post of honour that was his due.
 
 44 TEN YEARS IN E QUA TORI A. 
 
 To Baker and Gessi belong the glory of having aroused and 
 directed the military spirit of the Soudanese Xegroes. The feats 
 ])erformed by them at Messico were a great revelation ; the invasion 
 of the Unyoro a splendid confirmation of their worth, especially as 
 it was attained by their combating the Arabs and people of their 
 own colour. The campaign against the slave-dealers of the river 
 Ghazal, besides demonstrating their personal valour, brought into 
 evidence the noblest virtues that can distinguish a soldier — 
 obedience, endurance, and self-sacrifice ; nor did they later on 
 disappoint the hopes conceived of them. The Germans achieved 
 successful warlike enterprises at Bagamoyo, Pangani, Saadani, 
 Lindy, and Mikindany, with Negro soldiers, the greater part o£ 
 whom were Soudanese, who, led by experienced German officers, 
 burst into the entrenchments, and with a glorious assault drove 
 out the daring followers of Bashir and Banaheri, chiefs of the 
 revolution on the eastern coast of Africa. Dr. Peters told me that 
 in his last wonderful journey he was met by a deputation of the 
 old soldiers of Equatoria — conquerors of the Mahdists — and 
 although they had been abandoned in a deplorable condition, they 
 had kept faithful to the Government of that period, and were not 
 to be drawn from it by bribes or threats. The fear of being some 
 day slaughtered made them careless of life, and they swore never 
 to surrender to the Mahdists. 
 
 But if the Negro has some good qualities, he has also many 
 faults ; he is distrustful, and retains an excessive partiality for 
 individuals of his own tribe ; this is especially the case among 
 the Shillook and the Dinka. 
 
 The instinctive cruelty of the Negroes ; the prompt and intense 
 hatred that is aroused in them by undeserved chastisement ; their 
 frivolity and culpable carelessness in all operations that they do 
 not entirely fancy ; their distressing loss of courage in face of 
 illness, even when it is not severe ; are all very serious defects, 
 but are probably caused by the inferior kind of education they 
 receive at present. 
 
 Taken from his savage habits and mode of life, improved by in- 
 struction, his moral and intellectual faculties developed by kind 
 teaching, and not by the tyranny of European superiority, he 
 cannot fail to fulfil, by his conduct, the hopes now entertained of 
 him. 
 
 In the short journey from Wau to Jur Gattas, I was troubled 
 with slight feverish attacks ; on the twelfth day my illness in- 
 creased, and on the following day an attack of typhus put my life 
 in jeopardy. 
 
 Gessi, with truly anxious care, deferred his departure, the day 
 for which had been fixed ; his heart was torn by anxiety at my 
 almost certain doom ; he installed himself at my bedside as doctor 
 and nurse, and administered to me larofe doses of real African
 
 CASATFS ILLNESS. 
 
 45 
 
 quinine ; lie sighed with intense relief when on the morning of 
 the Ikh the crisis was safely passed. Two days afterwards wo 
 exchanged our adieux on the borders of the desert, and an embrace 
 which was, alas! to be our last. 
 
 Hardly was Gessi gone, before order, tranquillity, and discipline 
 were disturbed a#d banished, to be succeeded by exjjlosions of 
 wrath, base vengeance, and reactionary intrigues. The Arabs and 
 the Gellaba, who had been driven away, returned at once to domi- 
 neer and influence public opinion, and the few who remained 
 faithful were obliged to withdraw in silence. 
 
 I had received plenty of provisions, which ought to have been 
 
 SEKIOUS ILLNESS. 
 
 enough to supply my wants during the whole time required to 
 strengthen me, before I continued my journey. A few days after 
 Gessis departure, I asked my servants for an account of them; they 
 informed me that all the provisions had been taken away by the 
 chief of the station — cows, goats, poultry, and everything besides. 
 
 I said nothing ; they expected that I would have uttered loud 
 complaints. 
 
 " I am very sorry," said a certain Sati, a native of Dongola, 
 appointed by Gessi as his deputy in command. " I am sorry that 
 the Governor did not recommend you to me, I should have done 
 much for you." 
 
 " It does not matter," I replied ; " I shall only remain here for a
 
 46 TEN YEARS IN EQ UA TOR I A. 
 
 very short time, aud shall not require anything beyond that which 
 the Governor has ordered." 
 
 " So much the better, but if you have any wish for provisions 
 or anything else, I — outside my official position — might be useful 
 to you ; much more so than Hassan can be, to whom you were 
 given in charge by the Governor." 
 
 " Thank you ; then since I am permitted to make a request, I 
 will ask you for the porters I shall require to accompany me to 
 Rumbek as soon as my strength is sufficiently restored for me to 
 begin my journey." 
 
 " Certainly, with great pleasure," he remarked. 
 
 However, I was obliged to extend my sojourn much longer 
 than than I had intended before the intermittent fevers attacked 
 me. 
 
 On the 14th of October I left the station with a caravan com- 
 posed of my servants and a certain number of porters, and directed 
 my course to the region of the river Rohl. 
 
 The road is formed by a commodious pathway, crossing an 
 extensive plain through thick grass : it follows a direction varying 
 from the north-west to the east and south-east. 
 
 In proximity to the villages and scattered huts of the husband- 
 men, we met with extensive plantations of dokon, a kind of millet ; 
 also Indian millet, sesame, ground nuts (arachis), beans and tobacco ; 
 in a smaller degree we met with fields of bananas, date trees, 
 oranges, and lemons. 
 
 The Donagla, or Dongolese, formerly in the service of the ivory 
 purchasers, after the confiscation of similar establishments by the 
 Government, settled there, devoting themselves zealously to agri- 
 culture. The slaves in their possession enjoy a comparatively 
 happy life, being treated with unusual gentleness, in order to render 
 them docile and active in field labours. 
 
 There are three watercourses on this route : the Tong, that runs 
 from south-west to north-east, and discharges its great mass of 
 waters into the Ghazal. It is fordable in the dry season, but 
 deep during rains, and about 100 feet (30 metres) broad. 
 
 The river Jau falls into the preceding stream, and is crossed 
 by means of a raft made of a quantity of bulrushes tied in bundles 
 and strongly bound together. Its course is rapid, and its width 
 about 65 feet (20 metres). 
 
 Last of all we pass the torrent Mar, which has a stony bed, and 
 only a moderate quantity of water that falls into the Rohl. 
 
 The year 1880 was favoured beyond its wont with abundance of 
 rain, and the vast plain that we were traversing presented at 
 intervals large pools of rain-water, which required several hours to 
 pass, and the deep pits made by the elephants' feet, which are 
 hidden from sight, caused us, also, great inconvenience. 
 
 The villages Tong, Gog-el-Hassan, and Gog Mouktar (the last
 
 RUMBEK. 
 
 47 
 
 named after a great priest still held in veneration), are constructed 
 of huts encircled by palisades that surround every separate habita- 
 tion. It is a fashion of reciprocal isolation that accords with tlie 
 Arab custom. 
 
 Rumbek, the goal of my first march, was reached on the fiftli 
 day. Founded by the merchant Melzac, it is a very populous vil- 
 
 A MOKU WOMAX. 
 
 lage, shut into a narrow space, with huts erected upon piles or 
 short posts. The part below the habitation, which is not enclosed, 
 is used for the purpose of household services. 
 
 Throughout all this territory the Arab element is supreme in 
 power, and also in insolence. The servants, who are obtained by
 
 48 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 raids in the south, are a mixture of Sandeh, Abukaya, and Moru. 
 The population formerly dominant was composed of Atot and Gog 
 branches of the Dinka fanily. 
 
 Warlike and ferocious by nature, they have always repulsed the 
 repeated attacks attempted by the Arabs against them ; husband- 
 men, with great cattle possessions, both of oxen and goats, they 
 maintain good commercial relations as long as their independence 
 is not threatened ; but are at frequent strife with the tribe Jur, 
 situated west of the river Tong. Gessi had appointed a certain 
 Mohammed Mula as Governor of the region, named from the river 
 Eohl, who had rendered important and signal services during the 
 war against the slave-dealers of the river Ghazal. 
 
 He was born at Dongola, and departing for Khartoum, was 
 amongst the first who opened the White Nile to the ivory trade. 
 Intelligent and bold, he united to his other qualities sincerity and 
 loyalty, added to great esteem and affection for Gessi ; so much so, 
 that the natives called him "th(^ white fly" of his species. 
 
 He had led a good many Arabs and Negroes who were devoted 
 to him, to the war against Solyman, and actually gave the country 
 that was subject to him to the Egyptian Government, whose 
 banner he unfurled with generous courtesy, to the exclusion of all 
 others ; but later on he was punished for his sympathy with the 
 heroic victor of the slave-dealers' war, deprived of his power, and 
 sent to Khartoum with others of his countrymen. 
 
 Rumbek, by its important position, was admirably adapted for 
 recruiting the forces to serve on the Jur. 
 
 Gessi, aware of the importance of being well prepared for war 
 (preparation being an essential and decisive factor in it), whatever 
 its system, fortified the land, and assembled detachments of soldiers 
 for the purpose of assimilating and organising them, thus rendei^- 
 ing them familiar with each other, that they might work well to- 
 gether and ensure a certainty of success in future combats, especi- 
 ally in the conquest of the important military line of the river Jur, 
 which might influence his future enterprises. In the territory 
 there is a good quantity of ivory, india-rubber, tamarinds, ostrich 
 feathers, and cotton. 
 
 As regards the animal kingdom, great numbers of elephants, 
 lions, leopards, and jackals, as well as of buSaloes, giraffes, and 
 antelopes, are found here ; numerous crocodiles people the rivers. 
 
 During the time I remained at Rumbek, I had the opportunity 
 of witnessing the feast and customs that accompany marriages 
 amongst the Donagla ; these festivities and usages are commonly 
 said to be in the Khartoum fashion. The asking in marriage, the 
 religious ceremony enacted, and the contract for the marriage 
 portion, do not differ from those generally in vogue amongst the 
 Arabs, but the speciality of the festivities, and a certain bizarre 
 custom deserve to be recorded.
 
 DON AG LA MARRIAGE CUSTOMS. 49 
 
 On the afternoon preceding the wedding day, the husband, 
 smearing himself with perfumed grease, and clothed in a great 
 mantle made of the finest stuffs, mounts a good horse and rides 
 through the principal streets of the town, accompanied by some 
 of his friends. 
 
 The marriage formalities accomplished, the husband invites the 
 nearest relations of himself and his wife to a separate chamber. 
 The latter is dressed only in a rad — i.e., a small vest made of 
 leather threads, fastened by a belt round her waist, and reaching 
 about four fingers below the knees. She begins to dance round the 
 assembled guests, snapping her fingers and swaying about, to the 
 general satisfaction, especially to that of her husband. 
 
 To manifest his pleasure and the fascination with which she 
 charms him, the husband scratches the sides and shoulders of the 
 bride (with nails prepared a long time before) till the blood starts, 
 as is required by custom. The wedding-dinner varies in splendour, 
 according to the means of the family ; but it must consist of boiled 
 and roast meat, sprinkled with sugar and honey, and pancakes, 
 accompanied by quantities of beer, called -iiierissa. A great noise 
 is the inseparable accompaniment of nuptial feasts, with dances, 
 songs, and the sound of guitars, tambourines, and fifes. These 
 amusements, of which the bride does not partake, are continued for 
 three consecutive nights, from sunset to dawn. 
 
 The dancing of the first day opens with a rather curious and very 
 significant ceremony. The young men and girls are seated in 
 separate groups, and sing alternately joyous and loving songs, when 
 suddenly a young man rises and presents one of the youths with a 
 whip of hippopotamus hide. The latter, thanking him, takes it, 
 and glancing round the assembly, utters a cry that is an appeal for 
 affection and admiration. 
 
 " Behold me prepared ! " replies one of those present, and coming 
 forward and bending before him, the one armed with the whip then 
 administers about fifteen lashes to the champion's back, who, both 
 for his own honour and in faithful homage to prescribed custom, 
 must carry vivid marks of the affliction. The pei-formance is 
 repeated reciprocally, and the two actors, proud of the marks 
 received, bear the whipping heroically, and retire, elated at having 
 demonstrated to the pretty girls their physical dexterity and 
 endurance. The songs and the dances, which must conclude on 
 the third day, are cut short in a still more surpiising manner ; the 
 noisy festival, about to degenerate into a bacchanalia, is violently 
 interrupted by the appearance of an old woman. During the 
 Night of the Scramble (lelet-el-hafs7ia) as it is called — this Megsera 
 extinguishes the lights, and the young men, shouting, kicking, and 
 pushing each other, chase the girls, who do not resist, and in 
 couples, arm-in-arm, they leave the house. 
 
 But the feasts are continued until the fortieth day amongst the 
 
 D
 
 50 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 relatives of the two families, when the bride shares in the closing- 
 of the festivity, and the tranquillity of domestic life commences. 
 
 The husband, however, lives in his wife's house for a year, with- 
 out being allowed to see his mother-in-law, with whom he enters 
 into relations only on the birth of his first son. She is, however, 
 always respected by him as a person of the greatest consideration, 
 and if circumstances arise which oblige him to take an oath, he 
 swears by her name. The most urgent wants of the husband, 
 during the time that he stays in his wife's family, are provided for 
 with great care by the mother-in-law, who prepares a special 
 refection for him every midnight, called " the refection for the foot 
 of the bed " Qcora angarel)). It consists of rice-milk, pigeons, and 
 sweet pastry. 
 
 Nor are the practices in use on the occasion of death less curious. 
 The death being announced by cries and women's tears, the 
 cor]3se is washed, while the priest recites prayers, and the women 
 place all the best they can find of the defunct's property, such as 
 arms, vests, and ornaments, in a large place, generally in the open 
 air. If he possesses a horse, it is led out caparisoned, care being 
 taken to place the saddle upside down, and to soil the animal with 
 mud, and abstract some hair from its tail. The body is placed in 
 the middle of a bed, covered Avith a large white sheet. The wife 
 or the deceased's sister make up their faces with ashes, and bran- 
 dishing a sword, they are accompanied by a crowd of women, who 
 place themselves round the coffin, distorting their limbs in accord- 
 ance with the gestures of the furious women who hold the sword, 
 sometimes casting themselves upon the ground, with chants and 
 cries and feeble lamentations ; or they execute a rough dance, more 
 or less prolonged, which has rather the appearance of ferocity or 
 folly than pity or grief. This is the ceremony at the funeral. The 
 body is then carried to the place of sepulture, 
 " Was he a just man ?" asks the priest, 
 
 " Zem " (good), reply the mourners in chorus ; and then they 
 proceed with the burial. But if the reply is " Shcn " (bad), the 
 last ceremony becomes difficult, and is only performed when the 
 relatives have mediated by means of gifts and offerings, and have 
 obtained pardon for the faults of the deceased. They scatter per- 
 fumed powder upon the grave. 
 
 For the space of seven days prayers are offered at the house, and 
 visits of condolence are received ; the friends are daily honoured 
 with refreshments and banquets. 
 
 On the fortieth day the public ceremonies end with a quantity of 
 food being placed, first upon the grave, and then distributed to the 
 poor. This food consists of pancakes, dates, raisins, and a sweet, 
 tart, called sed-el-ha-nacli, that cloaks the mouth.
 
 ( 5x ) 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 FKOM KUMBEK THROUGH THE COUNTRY OF THE DONGU. 
 
 Slow marches — Departure from Rumbek — Ayak — The river Rohl — The Donagla — 
 The Agar — A Greek — Plantations — Manufactories — Intercourse between Arabs 
 and Natives — Tlie freeing of slaves — Mudir Mula — "The lion is taken from us" — 
 Mergian Ali — The destruction of Rumbek — Slaughter— A survivor — The storm- 
 ing of Ayak— Retreat to Bufi — The Lesi district — The chief of Bufi — His 
 bravery — His superstitions — Talisman to protect us from lions and crocodiles 
 — Bufi free from the attacks of leopards — Did Khartoum fall, or not ? — Medical 
 art — The Moru tribe — Tobacco (Jlacir) — The Koddo and the Koddero — The 
 river Yei — The station of Amadi — Its military importance — Mohammed Abdu — 
 Burci — Grass conflagration — "Great fire causes great wind" — The continua- 
 tion of my journey forbidden — The river Aire — The Moru — The colonies of 
 Abukaya — The watershed between the Nile and the Makua — The Baginse 
 Group — Watershed between the Nile and the Congo — The Abaka — Perforated 
 lips — The substitute for tobacco — Anzia — Bederi — Belledi — Edi — Meriddi — • 
 Issu — Ibba — Mombia — Nembia — Metinga — The river Duru^Robbery of salt 
 and flight of the carriers — Rains — Forced halt — Difiiculties on the march — 
 Watershed between Duru and Dongu — Tawil — Bongola — Basinge — Baghinde — 
 The rivers Akka and Garamba — Hostility of Baghinde — Our passage through 
 his territory is forbidden — An interview — No reply. 
 
 I DEPARTED from Rumbek, November 10, 1880, worn out by inter- 
 mittent fevers, that afterwards accompanied me, with few inter- 
 ruptions, as far as the Makua region. 
 
 The use of quinine had no decided effect, but caused a trouble- 
 some insomnia, so nntch so that I was compelled to discontinue it, 
 and confine the treatment to cold baths, with a better result. In 
 consequence of this state of my health, I could not, as was my wish, 
 undertake long and difficult marches, and my exhausted strength 
 only permitted a few excursions round the places where I halted. 
 
 The country between Rumbek and Ayak consists of an extensive 
 plain, with low bushes and scanty trees strewn here and there, with 
 clusters of huts, and fields of various dimensions, where Indian 
 and common millet, sesame, orach, and beans are grown. It is a 
 fatiguing tract of fully ten hours' journey, bathed in the brightest 
 sunlight. 
 
 The river Rohl is the only course of water which flows through 
 it, in the neighbourhood of Ayak ; it has its source in the elevated 
 region of the territories of Kodurma and Anzia, and is formed by 
 several small rivers, which gradually join the river Aire, the name 
 of the Rohl at its source. It flows through the territories of 
 Abukaya, Lesi, and of the Agar, and proceeds straight to the Nile. 
 At Ayak it is already an important river, with irregular shores,
 
 5 2 TEN YEARS IN E QUA TOR I A. 
 
 which are shaped by the masses of water that in the rainy season 
 are hurled against each other. 
 
 The natives of that region are Dinka Agar, The river is usually 
 crossed by boats in the rainy season, but in the dry by wading ; it 
 has a sandy bed, a width of about 100 feet (30 metres), and its 
 waters are drinkable ; the shores near the village are cultivated for 
 vegetable gardens, which in the wet season are irrigated by water- 
 wheels worked by cows. This cultivation is only can-ied out by 
 the Arabs of the locality. 
 
 Ayak is a large village, situated on the banks of a river, and 
 consists of huts enclosed by palisades made of reeds ; it is inhabited 
 by Donagla people, who have settled in the country, and acquired 
 influence by means of the agricultural colonies founded by their 
 slaves. 
 
 At that time a sort of linen that wears well, consisting of soft 
 stout threads, was made at Ayak and other neighbouring Arab 
 stations, such as Rumbek, Bufi. Lesi, Amadi, and Goza. 
 
 The looms were quite primitive : the cotton was an indigenous 
 product from Egyptian seeds, perfectly white and fine ; the linen 
 is identical with that made for ages at Dongola and called damur. 
 
 These Arabs also dressed skins with the acacia bark, and made 
 good boots of the shape called markub. 
 
 A Greek — Gaspari Marco — who later on returned with Stanley's 
 Expedition, arrived amongst the Donagla people ; he brought 
 choice goods, made commercial acquaintances, and settled in the 
 country ; he improved agriculture by showing them the best method 
 of clearing the soil ; by persuading the natives to use manure, and 
 extending the cultivation of date palms, of orange and lemon 
 trees. 
 
 Horned cattle, especially oxen, are abundant amongst the Dinka 
 Agar who inhabit the country, and its invaders were amply supplied 
 with animal food by former and recent raids. 
 
 At that time the Donagla and Agar people were on friendly 
 terms ; the chief of the district had been clever enough to make 
 his influence felt, by inducing them to carry out the principles of 
 mutual exchange, by fixing taxes ; and by a tolerable system of 
 justice. The Dinka Atot and Agar called him "our man." They 
 still made raids, but out of their own tribe, and that sufiiced them, 
 if the chief would wink at it. 
 
 But a cause for discontent soon arose and troubled this compara- 
 tive happiness : the Governor, inspecting the provinces, was sur- 
 prised at the large number of slaves, and at the end of the year 
 1881 decreed their freedom, and directed that 400 of them should 
 be sent to Khartoum ; in spite of the humane intention which had 
 caused their liberation, these fellows became either the prey of 
 some chiefs as wicked as the slave-dealers themselves, or having 
 spread all over the country, they propagated amongst their com-
 
 THE LESI DISTRICT. 53 
 
 patriots elements of the corruption they had learned in so many 
 years of slavery. 
 
 Mula, the chief of the province, was also in the list of proscription ; 
 the natives suffered from it, and having a presentiment of the 
 violence close at hand, expressed their sorrow in these words : 
 " Our man has gone ; the lion is taken from us — beware ! " 
 
 They very well understood that a successor would put an end to 
 the truce which had been so favourable till then, and that great 
 suffering was in view. The situation became strained, the soldiers 
 and the Donagla men, divided by rivalry for supremacy, jeopardised 
 the efficiency of the Government influence, raids and fraudulent 
 tricks daily embittered their minds, and the blacks, having heard 
 rumours of the struggle which was taking place in the north, pre- 
 pared for revolt and revenge. Providence, after so many years of 
 suffering, had decreed a rising. 
 
 Only a spark was required, and it flashed ; a certain Mergian Ali, 
 then at the head of the Rumbek station, when returning from a 
 raid for cattle and slaves in the neighbourhood of the village, was 
 attacked by an armed band of Dinka, vigorously beaten, and 
 followed into the heart of the village, where they slaughtered the 
 whole of its inhabitants, comprising 200 soldiers and 60 families. 
 
 The attacking body, thirsting for blood and revenge, fell upon 
 these unfortunates like a wave which no human strength can stop ; 
 they were preceded by a great sorcerer with the cry " Ti Sehil 
 Allah" (By God's mercy), the deadly invocation of the Arab, with 
 which Mahdism had filled the air of the northern provinces and 
 which was spreading from place to place. It was in May 1883, 
 when the watchmaker, Vod-el-Melik, the only survivor of the 
 slaughter, brought the grievous news to Ayak. 
 
 In the middle of the night of the third day after the fatal date, 
 Ayak was vigorously attacked, and the garrison being unprepared 
 and overmatched by the enemy, was compelled, after heavy losses, 
 to retreat to Bufi, a village on the rirer Yei, two days' journey from 
 Ayak. 
 
 The country of the Lesi of the great Mittu family is celebrated 
 for its animal wealth, especially for elephants ; the hunting of 
 these pachyderms is effected by the natives setting fire to dried 
 grasses, which implies, as a natural and inevitable consequence, 
 the destruction, at no very distant date, of the whole species ; this 
 manner of hunting is almost universally practised in those countries 
 where such handy and deadly weapons as guns are deficient. 
 
 At Lesi I met a Turk, formerly a Bashi-Bazouk, a brave hunter, 
 but with his head full of ridiculous superstitions and empty boast- 
 ing, who had jarred on Emin Pasha's nerves both then and later 
 on, but otherwise a good, cheerful, and obliging fellow. He came 
 to see me, and gave himself entirely up to his glib tongue. 
 
 " Ah, you are a hunter ! " said I.
 
 54 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 " First-rate ! Without me the Mudir would be unable to continue 
 his zoological collection." 
 
 "What! Is there no one in tlie province capable of firing a 
 shot ? " 
 
 " Yes, a number indeed ; but all they can do is to burn powder 
 and destroy an animal ; for instance, a bird must be hit in the 
 breast, in order that the stufFer may show its appearance in the 
 most favourable manner ; carrying it hanging by the beak, cleans- 
 ing the feathers from blood, and preserving it from every damage, 
 are things requiring a certain delicacy of touch, which the Donagla 
 and blacks will never possess." 
 
 "After all," I said, "it seems to me that what is required is 
 not so difficult to learn; good will is generally accompanied by 
 industry and love of improvement." 
 
 "It ought to be, but it is not so here amongst us; and then I 
 must remark that the greatest difficulty of the business is selecting 
 the victim, in which I am not afraid of being surpassed by any one. 
 Several specimens of one bird in the same collection means waste 
 of time and gunpowder ; the skill I am speaking of is not a com- 
 mon quality, I assure you ; the Mudir knows it. I am expecting 
 him to ask me to return to him." 
 
 " Why did he dismiss you then ? " 
 
 " He did not ; it was I who wanted to leave — nay, he was so 
 pleased with me that, notwithstanding his occasional fits of temper, 
 he made me chief of the Bufi station." 
 
 *' And do you like living in Bufi ? " 
 
 " Kather ; on my arrival here disorder amongst the inhabitants 
 was very apparent, but I knew how to make these Dinka Eliab 
 submit. Only fancy, there was not a night but scores of leopards 
 penetrated into the station, so that no one dared to retire to rest, 
 and everybody was on the watch ; but, in spite of all their pre- 
 cautions, there was daily some victim to deplore ; ditches were 
 useless, and shooting was no better, but I found the remedy ; what 
 do you think it was ? " 
 
 "Indeed, I cannot say; perhaps you resorted to poison." 
 
 " It would have been of no use ; sorcery was at the bottom of 
 the whole affair, and the sorcerer had to be discovered." 
 
 " That is indeed peculiar, and I wonder what means you em- 
 ployed to do it ? " 
 
 " Listen to me and judge ; no one else could be interested in a 
 change of Government but the natives ; now these fellows, who are 
 extremely clever in sorcery, must have sent round the leopards, and 
 perhaps transformed themselves into these animals in order to 
 spill blood with their own teeth." 
 
 " Impossible, my dear fellow ! The idea is absurd." 
 
 " Not so absurd as you imagine ; you are only just arrived ; 
 remain a while, and I am sure you will change your opinion.
 
 THE CHIEF OF BUFI. 55 
 
 After a long experience, I have learned many secrets and acquired 
 a, conviction of the ejfficiency of many talismans, at which I laughed 
 formerly, as you are doing now." 
 
 " It is strange indeed ; but please proceed. How did you act ? " 
 
 " I called together the Eliab chiefs, who reside in the neigh- 
 bourhood, and regaled them with a large quantity of Indian (sorgo) 
 millet beer ; and lastly, I made them a present of tobacco, but it 
 was not genuine ; it was hasheesh (Cannabis indica). I incited 
 them to smoke, and in a short time they became as if drunk — the 
 usual effect of opiates. Thus I obtained my object, and the final 
 result could not be doubted — do you think so ? " 
 
 " It is a rare and curious case, the conclusion of which I can- 
 not foresee. I admire your cunning." 
 
 "I seized my trusted gun, and levelling it at the drunken and 
 astonished men, I said, ' Which of you dares to cause disorder, 
 fear, and mourning in my district ? You are sorcerers. I know 
 you have the ' evil eye,' but I must tell you that I will not permit 
 it any longer; your malice is- now known, do you understand?' 
 Then they suddenly answered, ' Yes.' ' Well,' said I, ' will you 
 stop your infernal tricks ? W^ill the leopards cease appearing in 
 this neighbourhood ? ' They all took an oath to that effect, and 
 from that day no leopards have ever been seen amongst us. The 
 district has been delivered from fear, and I think the Mudir himself 
 will be grateful to me." 
 
 I did not laugh, but was nearly suffocated in preventing it. He 
 was looking at me triumphantly. 
 
 " And my craft is not limited to this ; I possess several magic 
 powers. I am not afraid of going into the forest alone and look- 
 ing into the river ; neither the lion nor the crocodile have power 
 to harm me." 
 
 '• This surprises me still more, my dear Hassan- Aga," I re- 
 plied. 
 
 " Do you see this small piece of wood fastened to my right 
 wrist ? It protects me from the attack of crocodiles. Do you see 
 this other talisman fastened to my left arm ? This renders any 
 lion I meet on my way immovable and inoffensive. The animal 
 would, but cannot, pounce upon me ; and understanding its infe- 
 riority to me, he will wag his tail out of spite." 
 
 I saw this same man again later on, in 1886, at Wadelai ; he 
 had resumed his avocation of a hunter, and was employed as 
 such by Emin Pasha, but instead of being cured of his old 
 superstitions, he had learned all the stupid nonsense of the Lur 
 people. 
 
 He often invited a local juggler, whom he questioned as to 
 the existence or non-existence of Khartoum, and the results of 
 the war in the Soudan, and the obliging trickster prophesied 
 from the arrangement of some pieces of leather tossed in the air,
 
 56 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 the impregnability of the capital of the Soudan, the victories of the 
 Egyptians, and the approaching opening of the Nile route. 
 
 At that time he "vras also frantic with a medical and surgical 
 monomania ; his treatment of any disease consisted of bleeding 
 the head, hands or feet, as the case might be ; " for," said he, " every 
 complaint is caused by an abnormal state of the nerves." Poor 
 fellow ! his sons perished of fatigue on the road, and he himself 
 being little accustomed to travel, found the return journey im- 
 practicable. 
 
 Leaving the valley of the Eohl, and following a south-westerly 
 direction, a ten hours' journey brings one to Amadi, a large village 
 of the Moru. These people are strong, vigorous, and active ; they 
 are, as a rule, good husbandmen ; from their fertile land they 
 obtain com, sesame, sugar-canes, and tobacco ; besides the Ameri- 
 can kind of the latter, there is another, called macir (Nicotiana 
 rustica), with a strong sour taste, and generally preferred for 
 chewing ; this plant is indigenous in the Dinka country. 
 
 The Moru population is formed of two large tribes, Koddo and 
 Koddero, whose territories are divided by the river Yei ; they are 
 bounded on the north by the Dinka Agar and Atot tribes, on the 
 east by the Mandari and Niambara, on the south by the Bari-Lighi, 
 and on the west by the Lesi ; the Moru nation has a peculiar 
 language. 
 
 The river Yei has its source in the heights of Kakua, on the 
 range which divides it from the Dongu; it is augmented in its 
 course by the waters which descend from the western slope of 
 the Niambara mountain group and by those which fall from the 
 Makraka chain ; it touches Amadi and Bufi, intersects the Atot 
 country, and reaches the Nile on the north not far from Gaba 
 Shambe : in the rainy period it has plenty of water, but during 
 the dry one it is fordable everywhere. 
 
 The country is intersected by small ridges, slightly touching each 
 other, and mostly composed of rocks. 
 
 The seat of the Government, which was formerly on the left 
 bank, was rebuilt on the right one, when the Mahdist invasion was 
 expected ; the position is an important one for a temporary defence, 
 but at that time it was useless as an important base for operations, 
 because the road at the rear was exposed to the hostilities of the 
 black tribes. 
 
 The Donagla men were at that time as industrious and active 
 as those of the Rumbek and Ayak, and had extensive plantations 
 which were cultivated by a large number of slaves ; some of the 
 men I knew there were already famous in the histoiy of the 
 locality : Mohammed Abdu, for the iniquitous trade in eunuchs ; 
 Burci, for his complicity in the murder of King Munza. 
 
 It is a general custom in the Soudan to bum dried plants, in 
 order to clear the ground and manure it, as a preparatory step
 
 THE A B UK A YA CO UNTR V. 57 
 
 to sowing ; this custom often causes inconvenience and positive 
 damage, either because the fire extends beyond the desired limit, 
 or because the wind carries the burning embers to the roofs of the 
 huts, destroying whole villages. 
 
 In 188G this barbarous custom caused great damage to the 
 Government stations, which were all destroyed from Lado to 
 Wadelai. It was also introduced at Amadi, and I had my share 
 in the damage caused thereby. The dried herbage had been 
 ignited on the lands near the village, and the flames gradually 
 extended. After a few hours, when the fire had increased, a 
 whirlwind arose, and in a few minutes the devouring flames reached 
 the bank of the river. The village was wrapped in smoke, inter- 
 mixed with sparks, and the cry " Fire ! Fire ! " resounded on all 
 sides. The embers blown by the wind fell on the roofs, setting 
 them on fire, which spread rapidly from hut to hut. 
 
 The Koran says, " Great fire causes great wind ; " the blacks 
 say that when the jackal cries at night there is danger of fire ; 
 this is their reciprocal consolation for the damage done. I only 
 suffered a slight loss. 
 
 When I was on the point of departing, a message from the 
 Mudir of Maki-aka was handed to me, whereby I was forbidden 
 to resume my journey through his territory. Greatly surprised at 
 this injunction, I sent a letter to the Governor at Lado, and with- 
 out delay took the road to the Abukaya country, where I received 
 a most courteous welcome. 
 
 The traveller, after passing through the elevations which divide 
 the valley of the Rohl and the Yei, descends into a slightly wooded 
 region tessellated by fertile fields, rich with plentiful produce, 
 where the busyMoru display their industry ; then following a good 
 road, not only on account of its firmness, but also for the easy 
 passage of the numerous and sandy but unimportant streams, he 
 reaches the valley of the river Rohl (called Aire by the Abukaya 
 people) in about twenty hours, travelling south-west. 
 
 Between these two tribes there is no remarkable difference ; 
 they are considered as the most ancient races in the whole region ; 
 in consequence of their frequent intercourse and marriages, the 
 difierent types have gradually altered, so that they have actually 
 blended into one ; the distinction is only accentuated by the dif- 
 ference in language, traditional custom, and still more by national 
 pride ; but after all it is a nominal rather than a real difference. 
 
 The colony of Abukaya, which is passed on the banks of the 
 Dongu, on the contraiy, shows a greater contrast of types ; their 
 limbs are smaller, their complexion clearer, and their stature less 
 than that of their northern brethren ; this race may be considered 
 as representing the aboriginal type, although it has many pecu- 
 liarities of the Sandeh-Bombe people. 
 
 The watershed of the two basins of the Nile and the Makua is
 
 58 
 
 TEN YEARS IN EQUATOR! A. 
 
 ivpresented by a tortuous line, whicli, starting from a point south- 
 west of Wadelai, about 37 miles (GO kilometres) from the Nile, 
 first follows the Walegga and Lendu chain, and then, bending 
 
 NEGRO OF THE KEGION OP ABUKAYA. 
 
 towards Kalika, grazes the Kakua country, turns N.N.W. towards 
 the Ndirfi mountains, reaches Tendia and the Tungu mountain, 
 and penetrates the Abaka country amongst the Tomaya group.
 
 THE ABAKA PEOPLE. 59 
 
 In the first tract tlie most important watercourses of the liydro- 
 graphic system of the Nile are the Ayu, the Yei, the Torre, the 
 i\ire or Rhol; and in the basin of the ^lakua or Welle, the 
 Bomokandi, the Kibali, the Dongu, the Garamba, and the Akka. 
 
 Continuing through the region of the Abaka people, the line 
 runs west, and reaches the Baginse group, where the highest point 
 of the watershed is situated, and whence the Issu and the Sueh 
 descend northerly ; and on the other side, the Duru and the Kapili 
 descend towards the Makua. As to the principal watershed be- 
 tween the Congo and the Nile, it follows a north-westerly direction 
 from Baginse. From Goza through Konfo, the traveller enters 
 the Abaka country, which is crossed by following a path that runs 
 on the northern slope of the watei-shed, and leads by long and 
 wearisome convolutions (inherent to the nature of the ground), 
 sometimes to the top of a hill and often to a small valley. The 
 path leads through long, thick, and hirsute grass, difficult and 
 troublesome sugar-cane bushes, muddy-bottomed streams and real 
 bogs, groves of thorny shrubs, with few gaps and cultivated fields. 
 The tribe of Abaka has peculiar habits, customs, and language ; 
 they are mistrustful as well as greedy, lazy, and unwarlike ; culti- 
 vation is of small extent ; the Ulalnin is substituted for sorgo (Indian 
 millet), and only a few fields are laid out for tobacco. Large 
 cattle are scarce, but goats are plentiful. 
 
 The women have large protruding hips and strong limbs, but 
 are not comely, and the ideal of their elegance is a disc of wood 
 or ivory inserted in the upper lip ; they do the same with the 
 lower, although to a less extent, for they hang a small wooden 
 cylinder to it. 
 
 They grease their hair and body profusely, and then sprinkle 
 themselves with a sort of red flour, which they procure by grinding 
 the bark of a tree, the name of which I forget ; the females like 
 smoking more than the men do ; for this purpose they use iron 
 pipes made in one block, the stem of which is very long ; but not 
 always having tobacco at their disposal, they satisfy this vicious 
 habit by substituting live coals in their pipes ; smoking is generally 
 resorted to as a recreation. These people are cannibals, but at the 
 same time are neither inhuman nor ferocious ; they hunt elephants, 
 which are numerous in the country, and it was among them that I 
 first saw large ivory pins used as ornaments. They understand to 
 some extent how to work iron. 
 
 The chief localities of the country are — Anzia, at which the tra- 
 veller starting f I'om Goza arrives in about ten hours, passing Konfo 
 half-way ; Bederi, seven hours from Anzia ; and Belledi, four hours 
 from Bederi. The journey from Belledi to Batanga, the boundary 
 between the Abaka and Sandeh (Niam-Niam), south-west of the 
 Baginse mountains, takes seven hours, and a similar time to reach 
 the Baginse region, through an extremely fatiguing road, partly
 
 6o TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 formed by roitgh and tortuous paths. The watercourses of this 
 region are numerous but meagre, because they are all near their 
 sources ; but those worthy of mention are the Edi, which empties 
 itself into the Aire ; the Meriddi, which forms the Jau, the Issu 
 and its affluent the Ibba ; the Mombia, Nembia, and Metinga, each 
 of which has its share in the formation of the Sueh, the Duru, and 
 many other tributaries of the Makua. 
 
 At Belledi, the chief of the country, a handsome and apparently 
 courteous man, offered to accompany me on the road, " on account 
 of the difficulties," he said, " to be met with while crossing the 
 mountain passes." I willingly accepted his offer, and he pledged 
 himself to accompany me to Batanga, and advised me to divide 
 the journey into two parts, to make it less fatiguing. As I was 
 then suffering from persistent fever, I took the advice without 
 objecting. 
 
 After travelling in pouring rain for five hours, we pitched our 
 camp by the shore of the JVIetinga ; the chief showed me every con- 
 sideration, and supplied me with a good quantity of wood for fuel. 
 Then he caused his men to build a hut for my own use ; and having 
 thanked him for his attention, I peacefully retired to the rest which 
 my exhausted strength required ; but fancy my astonishment and 
 stupor when I heard, from the servants who awoke me a few hours 
 afterwards, that my former courteous companion, after having 
 secretly lighted several large fires, had decamped. Next morning 
 on taking the inventory of our goods, it transpired that the honest 
 chief had paid himself for his courtesy by stealing a load of salt. 
 I was obliged to remain three days in that place, in torrents of 
 rain, expecting that the chief Batanga would send on carriers. 
 
 The numerous watercourses and frequent marshes rendered my 
 journey difflcult and fatiguing, and rain falling almost daily in- 
 creased my discomfort, not only by its immediate effect, but also 
 because the carriers were unwilling to work ; the difficulty of keep- 
 ing them together with their loads at the least threat of rain, their 
 frequent desertion, sometimes with their burden ; a thousand cares 
 and molestations ; the perpetual discomfort, which greatly increased 
 the difficulty of proceeding ; all these causes had a material and 
 moral effect upon the state of my health, which was still precarious. 
 
 After having passed through the Baginse group of mountains, 
 and overcome the watersheds between the Duru and Dongu, we 
 descended a gentle slope to a valley of the latter, passing over 
 rivers and streams of little importance, such as the Boduma, the 
 Gaugua, and the Nyawa, and reached the village of Tawil (April 
 1881). This country is peopled by Sandeh, a laborious and less 
 mistrustful race than the neighbouring tribes ; the territory is fer- 
 tile, mostly cultivated with Indian millet, tdalun, beans, ground 
 nuts {arachis), and tobacco, besides bananas. It is ruled by various 
 chiefs, who are quite despotic, except that they acknowledge the
 
 AN ABAKA NEGRESS.
 
 AN ABAKA NEGRO.
 
 MY PASSAGE FORBIDDEN. 
 
 6i 
 
 authority of the commanders of the stations of Arab villages which 
 
 were founded for the acquisition of ivory and slaves ; these chiefs 
 
 reside in Tawil, Dongu, Bon- 
 
 gola, Basinge, and Baghinde, 
 
 near the river Dongu. The 
 
 river Akka, the largest in the 
 
 country, has its source in the 
 
 Tomaya and Gabologgo group ; 
 
 it is augmented by the waters 
 
 which flow from the western 
 
 slope of the Tendia mountains 
 
 (the stream Garamba being 
 
 the most important of them), 
 
 and having run through a 
 
 limited tract of country, pours 
 
 its waters into the Dongu ; the 
 
 tributaries of the right bank 
 
 are less important. 
 
 The surrounding lands are 
 covered with grass, amongst 
 which the papyrus reed is 
 occasionally seen ; but they 
 are not fertile, and but little 
 cultivated. The river Akka is 
 crossed in boats during the 
 rainy season, and at that time 
 the water is moderately deep. 
 
 In 1883, when I went to Lado I again saw the chief Baghinde ; 
 he had increased his celebrity by continual molestations of the 
 Government agents, and did not follow his father (Beshir's) ex- 
 ample, who, after being a slave, was made a chief by the Donagla. 
 
 This unfortunate man was infatuated by a strange ambition, 
 which induced him to bum the Government correspondence and to 
 strip the messengers of everything they possessed ; these misdeeds 
 caused him to be condemned to death, later on, 
 
 I was accompanied on this road by a Soudanese ofiicer, who, with 
 a small escort of soldiers, had a mission to the Wando chief to ful- 
 fil. When we reached the river Dongu, the chief Baghinde not 
 only refused to provide carriers, but was audacious enough to refuse 
 to comply with my request that he would supply food for the 
 soldiers, and forbade my passage through his country. 
 
 All our attempts, made by means of mediators, to alter his 
 hostility having failed, I resolved to ask for an interview, in any 
 place he chose ; he complied with my request, but only on condi- 
 tion that I should be unaccompanied by the Government soldiers ; 
 we met by the small river Nacoya, in a locality full of grass and 
 bushes in the centre of a swamp. 
 
 NEGRESS OF THE SAXUEII TUI13E.
 
 62 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 " I Lave complied with your request," said I ; " I came here 
 without armed escort, accompanied only by my servant." 
 
 " You must not be afraid of me," he replied ; " I bear you no 
 malice, but I will have nothing to do with the soldiers." 
 
 " But the coimtry has been already occupied for some time by 
 the Donagla, in the name of the Egyptian Government, therefore 
 there is nothing fresh that should displease you." 
 
 " Circumstances are altered. True, the Donagla used to make 
 raids and devastate the neighbouring territories to catch slaves, but 
 I derived some profit from that, and my person and property were 
 always respected. Two years ago as the soldiers passed (for the 
 first time) to fight Mambanga, my country was laid waste, and I 
 was maltreated, with considerable prejudice to my authority. They 
 continued to abuse their power, but I would not submit to it, and 
 therefore was compelled to take up a position of open hostility 
 against them." 
 
 " And why have you not denounced their misdeeds to the chief 
 of the Province ? '"' 
 
 '' It would have made matters worse ; he is too far from us, and 
 upon my return I should incur more danger than before." 
 
 " But I, who ask you the favour, am not a Government official ; 
 therefore you could grant it me." 
 
 " 1 should have no difiiculty as far as you are concerned, but I am 
 very much afraid that the men I should place at your service would 
 be maltreated or imjDrisoned by the soldiers." 
 
 " I can assure you that not one hair of their heads would be 
 injured, and that they would be at liberty to return by any road ; 
 because I travel alone, you know, without any armed escort." 
 
 " I wdll see," said he ; "I will consult my friends, and to-morrow 
 I will send an answer to your camp." 
 
 The reply did not arrive, and the friends alluded to were two 
 blacks who had run away from the Arab station some time pre- 
 viously, so I was obliged to engage carriers, by applying to the 
 chief of the Bamba tribe.
 
 ( 63 ) 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 THKOUGH TANGASI TO THE MAKUA. 
 
 Crossing the Dongu — Boats— Hippopotami — Crocodiles — A poisonous plant — The 
 colony of Mari — Mombuttu or Mambettu — The forest — The river Kibali — -The 
 Mambettu people — Old inhabitants of the region — The Mundu and the 
 Abisanga — The Mambare — The Mege, Maigo, and Abarambo — The Bamba — 
 The Akka fall back — Nembimboli and the Mambettu — The Mabode — -The 
 Sandeh-iron — ^The red oil palm — Gambari, Kadebo, and Yangara — The wooded 
 region — Crocodile flesh — The Tina Mountain — The river Gadda — Bellima — 
 Liberation of Gambari — The grey parrot with a red tail — Monfu — Gango — The 
 Obe — The Monfu, an inferior race — Agriculture — The manufacture of palm oil 
 — Nocava extracted from the Elais palm — Militaiy art — Raids by the slave- 
 traders— A brazen slave-trader — The colony of Bongo — I again reach Bellima 
 — Tangasi — The river Gadda — Ello — The home of the chimpanzee — The 
 Bamba and the Niapu — Miani's bones — Grave-diggers— Munza and bis former 
 grandeur — -Bitto — Munza's girdle — -Voracity of a pigmy — A letter from Dr. 
 Junker — Ingabeto — I descend by the Makua — A ford of the Makua— Sentry, 
 beware ! — Territory of the enemy — -Landing— -Mambanga, Munza's nephew — 
 The country's state of defence— Meeting Junker. 
 
 I WAS on the point of entering the Mambettu country, which has 
 been fully described by Schweinfurth ; I had heard wonderful 
 reports of the majesty of its scenery, of its rivers, with' its celebrated 
 galleries,* the banquets of human flesh ; the pigmies ; the chim- 
 panzee with semi-human form, the tragic death of King Munza, 
 and the iniquities perpetrated by the Arabs, all stirred my curiosity. 
 Lastly, the love of my country inspired me to view Miaui's tomb ; 
 desire for knowledge urged me to inquire into the peculiarities of 
 the Welle, the mysterious river, and of the lake which was imper- 
 fectly seen by Piaggia. 
 
 At the Dongu (May 1881) a Sunga chief, a tall lean man, with 
 a smiling countenance, and I would almost say with a spiteful lip, 
 was waiting for me ; he had prepared boats, each capable of carry- 
 ing a score of people, and, after having welcomed me, he suggested 
 that I should use them to cross the river ; the boats were made 
 from the trucks of the Uncaria-tree, and hollowed by means of 
 iron and fire ; it is a very light wood, which can easily be shaped 
 and worked ; with it the natives also make drums, seats, shields, 
 and many other artistic objects ; the tree grows to an amazing 
 height, and exhibits a trunk whose diameter sometimes reaches 
 6 feet 6 inches (2 metres). 
 
 * This name of the galleries in the woods on the banks of the rivers of that 
 country was given by Piaggia, who was the first European to visit it.
 
 64 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 I was told that in his solemn banqueting clays King Munza used 
 to serve food to his guests in large pans, made of one block, of the 
 wood of this tree, called gatu, and that it took four servants to 
 carry one of them full of food. 
 
 The Dongu has its source in the mountain chain which is the 
 boundary of the Yei group, in the Kakua country, and in its course 
 westwards is fed by numerous rivulets, amongst which the Ottua 
 and the Akka, descending from the north, are the most important. 
 It has rocks in many places, which make navigation impossible in 
 the dry season ; but in the period of the rains it carries such a 
 mass of water that it becomes deep enough even for large boats. 
 It has a strong current and few sinuosities, joining the Kibali at 
 about 28° 30' E. long. ; the Loggo people call it the Yo. At the 
 ford its altitude is 2395 feet (730 metres) ; at its mouth, 2330 feet 
 (710 metres). It is noted for a great number of hippopotami, 
 which are hunted mercilessly by the natives of both shores on 
 account of their fat. 
 
 The reluctance wnth which the northern people, especially the 
 Dinka, feed upon hippopotamus flesh is not even known here. 
 The ground between the river and Kibali is grassy, with few trees, 
 and with plantations of Indian millet, colocynth, and manioc. 
 With regard to the latter plant, inaccurate reports have been spread 
 this year. Two sorts of it are grown, one of which is poisonous ; 
 however, even this may be utilised as food, and the Sandeh are 
 accustomed to soak the bulbs in running water for twenty-four 
 hours; then they are taken out, w^iped, dried carefully in the sun, 
 and made into flour for food. 
 
 Chimpanzees are jaarticularly fond of the kind that is noxious to 
 human beings. 
 
 South of the Sunga country, the neighbourhood is inhabited by 
 a colony of Mari, a remnant of the ancient residents of this district. 
 
 The soil is at first rather barren, but farther on it is covered by 
 woods, and farther still by a forest, which rises in all its beauty in 
 the neighbourhood of the river. The banks of the Kibali are 
 raised a few yards above the surface of the water, and are covered 
 by thick growths of large trees and dense shrubberies, interlaced 
 with ivy. The river flows solemnly in its boulder-strewn bed, and 
 against these the dark waters dash. It is fully 260 feet (80 metres) 
 wide, and situated at an altitude of 2295 feet (700 metres). The 
 boats by which it is crossed are larger than those used on the 
 Dongu, and are propelled by oars, shaped like shovels, one of 
 which they use as a rudder. The country, which is improperly 
 called Mombuttu, is inhabited by several tribes, having different 
 origins and customs ; but the tradition of power having been in- 
 herited by the Mambekto * tribe, the whole country should be 
 
 * As is well known, the Italian tongue is the best to render the language of the 
 blacks, as their words all end in vowels.
 
 THE MAMBETTU DISTRICT. 65 
 
 named after them Mambettu — especially because their language, 
 habits, and customs have been adopted, and are still supreme 
 amongst the people. 
 
 The most ancient inhabitants on record were the Mundu, the 
 Abisanga, and the Mambare, of whom, at the present time, there 
 are only a few colonies scattered between the Mege and Sandeh, 
 on the east bank of the Makua. 
 
 The first invasions recorded are those of the Mege and the Maigo, 
 who fought against each other for the possession of the Gadda, 
 Bomokandi, Teli, and Abarambo regions, and who conquered the 
 greater part of the country which is now held by the Sandeh. 
 
 Subsequently, the Bamba from the north-west, and the Monfu 
 from the east, driving the natives before them, firmly established 
 themselves in the country ; almost all these tribes spoke a different 
 language and had distinct customs. 
 
 At the commencement of these invasions, the Akka (pigmies), 
 who had scoured the country north of the Bomokandi in remote 
 ages, fell back southwards and spread over the hilly land between 
 the Nepoko and Makongo, fixing their temporary abode, and 
 keeping themselves far from the invaded places ; these people, 
 although brave and dexterous in handling their weapons, never 
 fought in defence of a country ; they are nomads by nature, with- 
 out affection for any particular spot, and this seems to be the 
 reason why they always abandoned the country which became the 
 scene of war. 
 
 Under Nembimboli the first signs appeared of the invasion of 
 the Mambettu, who had settled near the Bomokandi and were 
 followed by the Mabode, who erected their villages near the 
 Monfu. 
 
 The western population had been moving eastwards for a long 
 time, and, almost simultaneously with the spreading of the Mam- 
 bettu, accomplished the great conquest of the Makua region. 
 
 The Mambettu and the Sandeh forced their way into the 
 country, and, as we have already said, the languages spoken there 
 are still those of the aforesaid two tribes ; the Mambettu, indeed, 
 have disappeared, but their language, customs, and civilisation still 
 exist. 
 
 The Niapu, who assisted so much in the dispersion of the 
 Mambettu, and who at that remote period settled in the country 
 opposite to the Mege, used to visit them periodically to barter 
 boars' heads and dogs for palm-oil. To the Abisanga is attributed 
 the introduction of the red oil palm (Elais guinccnsis). The Mege 
 are considered the most skilful in elephant-hunting, and the 
 Sandeh are greatly admired for their ironwork ; the Mambettu are 
 remarkable for the perfection of their wood-carving, the Abarambo 
 for their work in ivory ; and, lastly, the Monfu are celebrated for 
 their skill in asrriculture.
 
 66 
 
 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 At that time Mambettu land was divided into three separate 
 kingdoms, created by the breaking up of Munza's empire. 
 
 Gambari on the north, Kadebo on the south, and Yangara on 
 
 AKKA WOMAN (i-IGMy) 
 
 the east, were raised to power more by the influence of the Donagla, 
 the murderers of Munza, than by historical right, or by the people's 
 wish. Plebiscites are as yet unknown in Africa. 
 
 We were in a region which was very dark on account of trees,
 
 AT BELLIMA. 
 
 67 
 
 MAMBETTIJ NEGRESS. 
 
 and marshy and cold through the wet weather. At every step 
 
 there were streams, unimportant with regard to their waters, but 
 
 very difficult and troublesome to 
 
 traverse in consequence of the 
 
 numerous pools which they form. 
 
 The ground rose gradually before 
 
 us. 
 
 The chief Azanga, brother of 
 Gambari, invited me to a repast of 
 crocodile flesh cooked with manioc 
 leaves and most beautiful bananas, 
 which he advised me to steep in a 
 vessel containing palm-oil. 
 
 I was still too fresh to African 
 customs ; the taste of musk was too 
 pungent for me, and I confined 
 myself to bananas. 
 
 The small river Koquaro, which 
 is in the neighbourhood, is one of 
 the tributaries of the river Gadda ; 
 it is formed by the drainage from 
 the hillocks, which gradually increase in height towards the Tina 
 mountain, and flows south towards Gango, a village situated at the 
 source of the river Ubo, which pours its waters into the Dongu. 
 
 At Bellima, May 18, 1881, I met Karbado, the son of Gambari, 
 then temporarily ruling the kingdom instead of his father, who was 
 still exiled at Jur Gattas by order of Gessi, accused of having been 
 an accomplice to the infamous castration of children and youths. 
 Gambari had in reality attempted that abominable undertaking in 
 consequence of a commission which had been given to him by some 
 slave-dealers, but, notwithstanding his complete success, he was 
 removed. He came into power again when the Governor of Lado 
 incorporated the Mambettu country with his own province and 
 claimed its transfer from Moussa Bey, who was a Government 
 representative in the Ghazal River province. 
 
 I received a grey parrot with a red tail as a present from this 
 young man ; this Psittaciis crythacus is very numerous all over the 
 central regions of Africa, and is very much valued on account of its 
 tameness in the house, and for its red feathers, which are used as 
 ornaments. It is called Naque by the Mambettu, and Kukuru by 
 the Sandeh ; it is never seen north, beyond the river ^lakua, and 
 lives especially in the Walegga country, Unyoro, and Uganda, as 
 far as Msoga, east of the Victoria Lake. 
 
 When I was in Unyoro, at about the end of July, I had the 
 opportunity of observing the passage of flocks of them flying from 
 west to east, and also their return about the middle of March. 
 
 May 25, 1881. — I started for the Monfu country, where Kadebo
 
 68 TEN YEARS IN E QUA TORIA. 
 
 ruled supreme. I passed along the Tina mountain, then through 
 the Kabaturo country, whose chief Dinba is a Sandeh man, and 
 proceeded to Andikenero, where the Makongo chief resides. The 
 road to the latter place is woody, frequently broken by pools, and 
 intersected by small streams, mostly tributaries of the Bomokandi 
 and Ubo ; by the same route I then reached the Gango territory ; 
 so called from a Mambettu chief, a former lord of the country, who 
 was killed there at the time of the murder of Munza. 
 
 The village of Gango is situated west of the line of hills from 
 which the river Ubo flows, and by which it is separated from the 
 Bomokandi country. The inhabitants belong to the Monfu race, 
 whose tribes extend a long distance in a south-westerly direction 
 into that region which is between the Kibali and Bomokandi, as 
 far as the Walegga or Lendu land ; it is near the Bomokandi 
 river, which is crossed by boat at all seasons ; many of the 
 marshes which I met are real rivers, covered very thickly with 
 intermixed plants, forming a sort of elastic bed, where a man would 
 sink knee-deep. Owing to them, the passage of important rivers, 
 such as the Mekka and Nola, is difficult for man and impossible for 
 large animals. These growths, called ohe, are formed by grassy 
 vegetation, carried by the waters, and offer less difficulties in fording 
 the river than the sccl of the Nile, because they are more resistant. 
 
 The Monfu type is more easily recognisable than those of the 
 Bamba, Mambettu, and other tribes, because they are of smaller 
 stature and darker complexion ; they were and are still considered 
 as an inferior race, and for some time raids have been made into 
 their country for slaves to be employed in the fields, and it is said 
 that very young ones are still destined to satisfy cannibal taste. 
 
 They are famous husbandmen, strong, patient, and careful in 
 cultivating the fields, and their implements give evidence of their 
 skill. The women are also employed in the fields as elsewhere, 
 sharing the work with the men. 
 
 The Monfu enjoy some reputation for the clever manner in which 
 they extract oil from the Pcdma dais, which, being plentiful in the 
 country, is the cause of their wealth ; their skill consists in pro- 
 ducing an oil which is free from the bitterness caused by imperfect 
 preparation. They proceed in this manner: when the fruit is 
 properly ripe, they gather it and boil it in vessels of water ; when 
 that is strained off, they crush the fruit, carefully adding winged 
 termites to facilitate (as they say) the mixture of the whole lot ; 
 they squeeze it with their hands, and the impure oil is then fil- 
 tered through a very fine sieve made of herbs. 
 
 The oil is known by the name of nczo, and the tree by that of 
 noco, by which terms they are called in other tribes. 
 
 From the Elais Palm the Monfu also abstract a delicious but 
 strong liquor called nocava ; after having cut the palm through the 
 centre, they place it, deprived of all its upper leaves, and cut in
 
 THE MONFU. 69 
 
 several places, leaning at a certain angle over a hole in the ground, 
 in which either banana leaves or an earthen vessel is placed. 
 
 In about twenty-four hours the trunk loses all the liquid con- 
 tained in its fibres, which is called nocava. 
 
 In other parts, where the palm is not so plentiful as in the Monf u, 
 the drinking of this nectar is reserved for the chief, because of the 
 damage caused to the trees when cut for this puqaose. In the 
 Monfu country there are also a large number of banana planta- 
 tions (Musa ijaradisica) ; bananas are, so to speak, the basis of the 
 food of the population ; they are always eaten before they reach 
 maturity, and are boiled or roasted ; then the ripe ones, and only those 
 of a certain kind, after fermentation, are used for making beer. 
 
 The Monfu are not warlike, and do not perpetrate outrages 
 upon the neighbouring countries ; unless provoked, therefore, their 
 tactics are mostly defensive, and they make up their deficiency in 
 warlike spirit by art and cunning. Upon being attacked by the 
 ■enemy, they retire, blocking the road by which he advances with 
 trunks of trees — an easy task considering the number of woods 
 and forests in their country ; sometimes they try to draw the 
 enemy into an inextricable position, the aim of which is to enable 
 the natives to come from their hiding-places and fall upon their 
 ■opponents, often destroying them by fearful slaughter. This was 
 the fate of the men whom Gambari, ambitious of extending his 
 kingdom, sent in 1883, against the Monfu. 
 
 The weapons used by these people are lances, with light shafts 
 -and elongated iron points, well balanced so as to enable them to 
 be thrown a long distance ; also very thin arrows, poisoned and 
 bristling with spikes ; the poison is made from the juice of 
 various plants, which they keep a profound secret. Their shield 
 is about 5 feet (1^ metre) high, elliptic and large, with a cavity at 
 its lower end to place the lance in ; it is made of strips of Indian bark. 
 
 At that time (July 1881) the Arabs had started upon an exten- 
 sive raid into the countries south of the Bomokandi, and I was at 
 Beiga, a small village inhabited by blacks, when I saw a score of 
 women coming up ; they were tied to one another by cords fastened 
 round their necks, and afterwards, a certain Ibrahim, whom I 
 knew at Amadi, arrived. 
 
 I did not speak ; he saluted me, and I returned it. The Arab 
 began his usual prayer, and I did not disturb him ; but when he 
 had finished, I called him to me. 
 
 " Ibrahim," said I, " you have prayed unto God fervently." 
 
 " Oh yes," said he, hesitatingly. 
 
 " And you have thanked Him for the booty which you have 
 taken?" 
 
 He did not reply. 
 
 "And you have prayed Him to put such another lot in your 
 way ? "
 
 70 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 "I am a poor man," said he ; "I work to keep body and soul 
 together ; I am Mohammed Abdu's servant." 
 
 I did not say anything more upon the subject, but spoke of 
 other things. 
 
 During the night, the greater part of the slaves disengaged 
 themselves from the cords and took to flight. Next morning Ibra- 
 him departed with a sullen countenance, without approaching me ; 
 but I must say that I had no hand in the escape of those slaves. 
 
 During the time that fever granted me a truce, I made some 
 short excursions into the neighbourhood of Gaugo, to study the 
 country ; once I came across a secluded village, whose huts had 
 roofs covered with thick layers of grass, similar to those of the 
 
 rANGASI. 
 
 Ghazal region. It was a colony of 
 Bongo people who had settled there 
 a long time ago, and retained the 
 language and traditional customs of 
 their ancestors ; but in consequence of the slaughter and strife 
 caused by the ivory traders, its unity was destroyed, and many of 
 them emigrated. 
 
 Indefatigable and careful husbandmen, and in friendly relations 
 with the natives, they showed a marked contrast to them by their 
 reddish-brown complexions, vigorous limbs, and tall stature. 
 
 I returned to Bellima, July 8, 1881, by the road which runs 
 west of Mount Tina ; this is a small low mountain, which rises 
 alone, upon a rather undulating ground ; its summit is large and 
 flat, like a terrace. 
 
 After having remained at Bellima some days, in order to obtain 
 carriers, of whom I was in great need, I started, July 30, with my 
 small caravan for Tangasi, taking a road parallel to the course of 
 the river Gadda.
 
 TANG AS J. .71 
 
 This river, which can be seen in the distance from some parts of 
 the road, has its origin in the Tina mountain, springing from the 
 network of streams which flow from its spurs ; it is increased along 
 its course by minor rivers and streams which flow from the neigh- 
 bourhood of the watersheds Bomokandi, Gadda and Makua-Gadda ; 
 amongst these watercourses, the Ello, Tombi, and Au are worthy 
 of mention; these in the rainy season have a moderate flow of 
 water. 
 
 The Gadda is 100 feet (30 metres) wide, and of a considerable 
 depth in the wet period ; it is then crossed by wooden bridges ; it 
 joins the Makua in the Mambare country. The Ello, which must 
 be crossed in order to reach Tangasi, has a breadth of about 33 feet 
 (10 metres) and is passed over by trunks of trees ; the territory is 
 covered with woods, mixed with cultivated tracts ; watercourses are 
 frequent and form troublesome pools. 
 
 The elephant and bufialo are numerous, and are seen in groups ; 
 the existence of the chimpanzee is indicated by its huts, built on 
 trees. The numerous dwellings of the natives are frequently en- 
 circled by hedges as a protection from wild beasts. 
 
 The inhabitants gi-ow maize, sesame, pumpkins, and colocynth ; 
 but bananas, manioc, and sweet potatoes {Batata edulis) are the 
 staple food. 
 
 The population, amongst whom the Xiapu have settled, is chiefly 
 Bamba ; there is also a colony of ]\Iaigo, remnants of the ancient 
 owners of the territory. 
 
 After five days" journey I at last reached Tangasi, a name which 
 includes the history and vicissitudes of the people ; the chief Yan- 
 gara, one of the successors to the dismembered kingdom of Munza, 
 ruled the country. 
 
 Gessi showed me some of Miani's bones at Wau, which he had 
 caused to be gathered at Tangasi, and he induced me to search for 
 the place where he died and was buried. I did not waste any time, 
 but immediately upon my arrival began to make all necessary in- 
 quiries to attain my object. Assisted by Yangara and favoured by 
 the Arabs, I was fortunate enough to find a negro who had worked 
 at the grave of the unfortunate explorer. 
 
 Three hours' journey north-east of Tangasi, there once existed 
 the large village and residence of the powerful Munza (which has 
 been illustrated by Schweinfurth) ; owing to the ferocity of the 
 slave-traders, that town was burned to ashes upon the same day that 
 the great king was killed, and only thirteen high posts, blackened 
 by tire, remained as evidence of its past existence and the histori- 
 cal splendour of the palace. 
 
 After half an hour's journey, crossing over the river Bitto, north 
 of the village, and ascending north-east, we reached a large plain 
 upon the top of a hill ; it was bare of trees and covered with herb- 
 age, which increased the desolation of the place. There a shapeless
 
 72 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 mound indicated the grave of poor Miani. 1 caused all the weeds 
 encumbering it to be removed forthwith, and carefully examining 
 the earth excavated by my men, I found a few remnants of human 
 bones and fragments of a broken vessel. These remnants, which I 
 had always carefully preserved, hoping to return them to the 
 mother country, were stolen from me and destroyed by the ferocious 
 king Kabba Rega of Unyoro. 
 
 But were those fragments Miani's real bones ? 
 
 Was he not buried near the village of Numa, amongst the San- 
 deh ? And was not the coffin closed with four large nails? 
 
 Some witnesses of Miani's deeds and of his lamentable death had 
 supplied me with the most minute particulars of them, given with 
 that unanimity which is usually met with in witnesses who speak 
 the truth. 
 
 Miani was not amongst the Sandeh on the right bank of the 
 Makua ; he only halted at the Bakangoi, whence he proceeded to 
 meet Munza. 
 
 Sickly and troubled by intermittent fever, he was taken, after 
 his return, with violent dysentery, and expired soon after. Accord- 
 ing to a wish expressed by him, his mortal remains were placed in 
 a wooden coffin which he himself had constructed. He was com- 
 pletely clothed, and by his side were placed a terra-cotta pipe and 
 a vessel of the same material full of tobacco, the whole contents 
 being wrapped in a large carpet, and sewn up, the coffin was then 
 closed with four large nails, and accompanied to the grave by the 
 Arabs of Tangasi and numerous natives, shots being fired over it in 
 honour of the deceased. 
 
 The only violation of the body was the cutting off his beard, 
 which Munza ordered to be made into a cord and afterwards wore 
 as a girdle — an excusable idea, perhaps to be attributed more to 
 affection than disrespect. On the night following the day of the 
 burial, unknown thieves opened the grave and stole the coffin, nails, 
 carpet, and the whole dress ; and they would certainly have taken 
 the body itself to eat if they had not objected to the flesh of white 
 men. 
 
 Munza, being informed of the facts, ordered an inquiry to be 
 made to discover and arrest the robbers ; but neither these men nor 
 the stolen objects could be found. 
 
 Having returned in the evening from my pious duty, and placed 
 the precious relics in a box, I called one of my servants and 
 ordered him to bring me some bananas from the bunch which 1 
 knew I had left at home, for I was suffering from an involuntary 
 fast. 
 
 " There are no more bananas,"' said he. 
 
 " How is that ? What about the bunch sent from Yangara this 
 morning ? " 
 
 " It is no longer there."
 
 JO URNE V DO WN THE MAKUA. 73 
 
 •' Well, then, have you eaten it all ? — a bunch of about one 
 hundred bananas ! " 
 
 " Akango [thus the Akka who had been given to me at Gango 
 had been named] has eaten them." 
 
 "All?" 
 
 " Yes, altogether ; we have surprised him several times during 
 the day stealing fruit, and it was impossible to prevent him." 
 
 I did not speak, and resolved to wait till supper-time, which 
 that evening was rather later than usual. While I was supping, I 
 ordered the culprit to be brought before me and offered him a 
 plateful of porridge mixed with meat and invited him to eat. He 
 stooped down quietly, and with the usual unconcern swallowed 
 the whole of it, to the last mouthful. What voracity ! 
 
 He then told me that when he was caught and enslaved by the 
 Monfu, he was surprised upon a banana tree, whilst stnaggling 
 hard to pick a bunch. This boy gave me proofs on several other 
 occasions of his extraordinary appetite. 
 
 A letter, received from Dr. Junker, September 18, 1881, informed 
 me that he had arrived amongst the Abarambo, and that he shortly 
 intended going to meet the Mambanga chief, who at that time 
 was waging war against the Government troops. I was very glad 
 of this news, which gave me the opportunity and pleasure of making 
 the personal acquaintance of that distinguished Russian traveller. 
 Two days after, I went down towards the Makua to Ingabeto to 
 meet the Mambare chief, travelling over the same road by which I 
 had gone to Miani's grave. 
 
 I inquired as to the best route, and ascertained that the one 
 by water was longer than that by land ; but that the latter passed 
 through dense forests frequently intersected by watercourses ; with 
 uncultivated and uniahabited tracts, the natives having fled the 
 country since the day when the war against Mambanga began. 
 Moreover, the chief Mabu could not accompany me by land, in 
 consequence of hostilities which kept him away from Mambanga, 
 but he offered to go with me in a boat as far as the mouth of the 
 river Vavu. I joyfully accepted, because thereby I was offered an 
 opportunity of well exploring the banks and course of that part 
 of the river to be traversed. 
 
 In the course of two days a small fleet of six large boats was 
 formed, each capable of containing forty persons, and rowed by 
 twelve men. The chief having landed at the appointed spot, em- 
 braced the opportunity of hunting buffaloes on the lands adjacent 
 to the left bank. 
 
 It was a delightful journey, from the grandeur of the river 
 Makua; the majesty of the vegetation; and the delicious shade 
 which extends over the waters and keeps them cool ; from the re- 
 freshing breezes by which the air is gently stirred ; re.stless monkeys 
 pouncing one upon the other as if fighting ; splendid birds with
 
 74 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 riclily coloured feathers fluttering amongst the trees, some swim- 
 ming on the river ; flying fish ; the sudden plunges of the croco- 
 diles ; a number of hippotamus' heads, spurting water in all direc- 
 tions on the majestic river ; all this formed a scene which it is 
 impossible to describe. 
 
 The left bank descends almost perpendicularly, the forests 
 by which it is covered giving it a dark hue ; the right is not as 
 high, but slopes gently, and is covered by less dense forests, occa- 
 sional breaks showing immense gTassy plains in the background, 
 which gradually vanish towards the blue horizon. 
 
 Our small fleet proceeded, enlivened by the rhythmical songs 
 of the oarsmen. They were all joyous, and amused at my admira- 
 tion. I asked a great many questions which were not understood, 
 either from their nature or on account of the difiiculties of the 
 language. 
 
 '■'• Does friendship exist between you and the Sandeh of 
 Wando ? " 
 
 " Yes, at present ; formerly we frequently quarrelled." 
 
 " But you have always repulsed their attacks." 
 
 " Yes, that is true ; though once we ran a great risk." 
 
 " But how could Wando cross so deep and large a river ? " 
 
 "Now allow me to tell you the exact stoiy. As long as Wando 
 tried to cross at night and in the rainy season, even with several 
 scores of boats, his troops were an easy prey for us ; but there 
 was a time, soon after the death of Munza, when the struggle 
 became severe and sanguinary. In the dry season, about two 
 hoars' journey from Ingabeto, there is a ford {iialangue) which is 
 quite unknown to the Sandeh. Upon the king's death, several 
 parties were formed in the country, and Wando, anxious to take 
 advantage of circumstances, was clever enough to win a certain 
 N'Dongo, father of that El-Mas whom you have seen wdth the 
 Governor of Bahr-el-Ghazal. This man revealed to him where 
 the ford was, and Wando came with numerous warriors; but 
 the Arabs having unmasked their guns, he was defeated, leaving 
 a great many killed and wounded on the banks of the Makua ; 
 however, he with a few followers succeeded in saving his life." 
 
 " Can you tell me if there are other fords in the river ? " 
 
 " Not to my knowledge, no (cahare) ; at least, as far as that part 
 of the river frequented by us is concerned." 
 
 " And how far do you generally go in your journeys on the 
 Makua ? ' 
 
 " As far as the chief Masinde's land." 
 
 "Are there cataracts and diflicult points to overcome on the 
 river ? " 
 
 " Ciqyida, cahare (cataracts, no) ; there are rocks in several 
 places, but always near the banks ; and there is a spot, one day 
 beyond Madungule, where the Ncbdi lives (the evil spirit of the
 
 IN MAMBANG AS TERRITORY. 75 
 
 waters), who is a very dangerous enemy to navigators. If a boat 
 is bold enough to attempt the passage of that place, and does not 
 know how to avoid the dangerous point, it is whirled round, and 
 carried down into the abyss by the nehdir 
 
 My extemporised geographer meant to describe a certain locality 
 where a whirlpool would endanger a boat. 
 
 As a proof of the fact, he related the story of several misfor- 
 tunes that had occurred on that spot. 
 
 '•And now, please tell me, was there such an enormous mass of 
 vegetation collected on the river as to impede traflSc ? " 
 
 " Neither on the river upon which we are, nor on the Bomokandi, 
 has such a thing ever been seen ; it only occurs on some secondary 
 rivers, but has no n'uganda (bad results)." 
 
 " Do you know the papyrus plant ? "' 
 
 " JVelume (papyrus). Oh yes, it is in the Sandeh country, 
 north of the Dongu ; the plant is not found on this side of the 
 river." 
 
 " Does the river receive many waters ? " 
 
 " Not in the Sandeh country, but a great many in ours." 
 
 " Would you tell me the most important of these watercourses ? " 
 
 '"The Netuko, which I suppose you met shortly before your 
 arrival at my place, and the Vavu, near the landing-place in the 
 Mambanga country ; but there are others, such as the Klivo, the 
 Raro . . . . " And here he repeated a string of names of 
 secondary importance, which I do not remember ; amongst those on 
 the right bank I recollect the Babuto, the Boquara, and the 
 Mbueri. 
 
 " Are there many fish in the river ? " 
 
 " Ncnghcr^ mekotii amejjojjo amomhe (fish many, large, good) ; the 
 Adai who are close to us, and the Mambare, have no other industry 
 but fishing, and thereby earn agnb ne jpazo (corn and oil), and all 
 they require." 
 
 We stopped in a little creek of the right bank, on the evening of 
 the first day's navigation : fear of the Mambanga kept us far from 
 the opposite one, and in the morning early we resumed our journey, 
 during which I continued my questions, especially about the Hood- 
 ing of the river, which often inundates the plain of the Sandeh ; 
 and about the Wando country, which is richer in corn than that of 
 the Mambettu, but deficient in palm-oil ; after three hours' passage 
 we were stopped by some loud commanding words proceeding from 
 the right bank. Upon the answer given by my companions, that 
 "the white man was coming," another howl gave us to understand 
 that we were permitted to resume our journey. 
 
 At last we arrived at the landing-place ; the flotilla moved 
 towards the opposite bank, and my boat touched the Mambanga 
 territory; I landed, accompanied by a boy whom I had brought 
 with me : the boat went away, and I remained alone.
 
 76 
 
 TEN YEARS IM EQUATOR/A. 
 
 Several armed men were awaiting us, and I followed them 
 towards a small hill, where I was at once in the presence of 
 Mambanga, the rebel chief of Abisanga, the dreaded nephew of 
 King Munza. 
 
 Mambanga was in a state of hostility with the Government 
 troops. 
 
 At first he successfully repulsed the repeated invasions into his 
 territory which the Arabs, Yangara, and Bauli attempted. 
 
 At that time, brave almost to rashness, he was striving for 
 success against very unfavourable odds, and chance was against 
 him. 
 
 Mambanga was waiting for me, standing upright with his lance 
 
 MEETING WITH MAMBAXGA, 
 
 by his left side, waving the historical troriibask (war knife) with his 
 right hand, and his shield leaning against a tree ; he saluted me 
 and invited me to sit down upon a bench opposite, upon which he 
 also seated himself ; his faithful followers, armed to the teeth, 
 squatted on the ground, forming a circle round their chief, and in 
 such a position that my back was turned towards them. I looked 
 at him attentively ; he was a man of tall stature and strong limbs, 
 but agile and quick in motion, with a penetrating eye and regular 
 features, the image of resolution ; his complexion was light brown, 
 and his countenance pleasant, not even suggesting a suspicion of 
 ferocity. We only remained upon the hill long enough to exchange 
 the usual courtesies, and then we went together in the direction of 
 the village where his residence was situated.
 
 MEETING WITH DR. JUNKER. 
 
 77 
 
 The road ascended the slope of a mountain which was occa- 
 sionally rent by precipices. The path on the extensive plateau on 
 the hill was crossed by defensive ditches, over which a passage 
 could only be effected by 
 stepping upon transverse 
 pieces of timber, which were 
 withdrawn immediately after 
 the transit of the whole 
 party. We were in a country 
 which was in a state of war ; 
 the bravery and wisdom of 
 Mambanga were proved to 
 me by the sight of the pre- 
 cautions he had taken. 
 
 When we reached the first 
 hut of the village, the sun had 
 already sunk beneath the 
 horizon. Dr. Junker was 
 waiting for me, and we saluted 
 each other and shook hands ; 
 this gentleman, whose in- 
 telligence and knowledge are 
 so prominent, and whose 
 manners are so courteous and 
 simple, overwhelmed me with 
 kindness. He is an experienced exjjlorer, of a quiet and resolute 
 temperament. 
 
 I stayed with Mambanga three days, and only those who have 
 experienced African solitudes and had the good fortune to meet a 
 European gentleman of Junker's qualities, can have any idea of 
 the interest which enhanced the conversation between us. 
 
 DK. JUXKEK.
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 THE DIVISION OF MUNZA'S KINGDOM. 
 
 The Bomokaudi country — Nembimbali at Ndubala — His death — His son Tukba — 
 Renewed courage — The avalanche slips down again — In Nembeleti — Organisa- 
 tion of the country — Assimilation with the vanquished — Angolo, general of 
 the Sandeh — Death of Tukba — Munza the young ne-hinie — Alliance with 
 Magapa — Peace concluded — Partition of the Kingdom — Adoptions of nephews 
 —The slave traders — Nessugo the rebel nephew — The sons assume the nation- 
 ality of the mother — Struggle between Eru and Ndula — The Arabs think of 
 deriving advantage from it — Ngasi (or Tangasi) burnt — Horrid banquet — A 
 corpse and the scant pity — A crowd rushing into slavery — Yangara, Gambari, 
 and Kadebo — Murder of Kubi — Gango falls on Mount Tina — " I am a king's 
 son " — The slave traders El-Mai^The Niapu — Azanga — A generous brother — 
 On the bank of the Makua — Nessugo, a vassal and a friend — He tries to 
 deceive the Arabs, and laughs at them — Fallen into the trap — His death — 
 General language — Respect to fallen grandeur — The Nugghi — Nursing the 
 Chief — Hair — Large pins — Tattooing — Small tuft of parrot feathers — The 
 Mandalongo — The shield — The talisman — Spears — Servants' weapons — 
 Wonderful dexterity — The trombaslc — Imperfect means, artistic execution^ 
 Wood work — Agricultural implements — Pottery — Schweinfurth's judgment. 
 
 The life of primitive nations is an incessant agitation for the 
 attainment of progressive comfort, which leads to higher civilisa- 
 tion. Ignorant of the future and careless of the present, the 
 savage tribes instinctively attack and destroy one another. Sooner 
 or later the weaker are reduced to impotence, the stronger fortifies 
 itself, rules and assimilates with the conquered, and in the end 
 makes the weaker submit to its caprice ; hence follows the dis- 
 tinction of master and servant, and the necessity for preserving 
 the conquest produces the need of order and labour. 
 
 The regions of the Makua and the Bomokandi, which had the 
 reputation of being wealthy and prosperous, excited the imagina- 
 tion of the neighbouring tribes. Their division into small groups 
 differing from each other in origin, language, and customs, and 
 their innate jealousy, which kindled dissensions and wars amongst 
 them, conveyed the idea to the neighbouring tribes that conquest 
 was easy and triumph certain. 
 
 Nembimbali, who was already with the Mambettu, after reach- 
 ing the forests of Nangrebondo in the Mombottu country,* pro- 
 ceeded towards the Mege, and took up a position on the left bank 
 of the Bomokandi, but, having suffered defeats, he was obliged to 
 fall back on the river Teli. He took up his abode at Ndubala, 
 
 * The Mombottu are a tribe of the Monfu.
 
 KING MUNZA. 79 
 
 where he died soon after, and was succeeded by his son Tukba, a 
 resolute young man, of keen intelligence, who, by continually 
 reproaching his people for the shame of their defeats, at last 
 kindled in them an earnest desire for revenge, and that enthusiasm 
 which once resounded in the forest, with the war-cry of determina- 
 tion, first raised by Nembimbali. 
 
 The human torrent then resumed its course ; the sword of the 
 assailants flashed unceasingly from village to village ; horror and 
 death were the delight of the conquerors, till at last they stopped 
 at Nembeleti and those very hills which later on witnessed the 
 death of Miani. Tukba ruled over the countiy situated between 
 the rivers Gadda, Bomokandi, and Teli. 
 
 When the feeling of revenge had subsided, the king turned his 
 attention to the organisation of his States. He entrusted the 
 government of his various regions to the most distinguished 
 waiTiors ; promoted the assimilation of the conquerors with the 
 conquered ; continually avoided the dangers of internal dissensions, 
 and proclaimed the restoration of peace. 
 
 The conquered, weakened and forgetful of their defeat, resigned 
 themselves to the new conditions, and almost liked the mild slavery 
 to which they had been reduced. Being aware of their conquerors' 
 superiority, they shaped their mode of life according to the customs 
 and usages of the latter. But the peace did not last long ; the 
 Sandeh, rapidly advancing,, reached the gates of the kingdom. 
 Angolo, Ntikima's general, proceeding from victory to victory, 
 threw down the gauntlet to the old Mambettu king. The struggle 
 was fearful, and the bravery equal, but fortune smiled upon the 
 new comers, the day was theirs, and the Mambettu fell back. 
 Tukba died spear in hand. 
 
 The young king {nc-kinie)^ Munza, in the confusion of defeat, 
 gathered the fugitives, and, having allied himself with Magapa, 
 Sovereign of the Bamba, who had settled between the rivers Gadda 
 and Kibali, he repulsed the invaders several times. 
 
 Munza, who was not only brave, but wise, forwarded peace pro- 
 posals to the chief of the Sandeh, abandoned the country left of 
 the Bomokandi as far as the rivers Tago and Nosso, and devoted 
 his energy to the consolidation and development of his kingdom. 
 He divided it into provinces, appointed his brother Kabrafa chief 
 of the Mege region, his other brother, Gango, over the Monfu, and 
 his son, Balanga, over the country adjacent to the river Makua, 
 with residence at Ingabeto. He kept his eldest brother, Azanga, 
 near him, and adopted Nessugo and Mambanga, sons of his brother, 
 Ghirimbi, who fell in battle ; the most beloved of his own sons, 
 Mbala, was of tender age. 
 
 At that time the ivory traders had penetrated into the land, 
 and, under the pretence of promoting commercial operations, had 
 taken root in it.
 
 8o TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 These adventurers longed to seize the blacks, and outrageous as 
 they were by nature, they rewarded the noble king's hospitality, 
 first with ingratitude and finally with treason. 
 
 Nessugo, the king's nephew, displeased at having been refused 
 a government, departed from Munza's house and retired amongst 
 the Abisanga, his compatriots. An unwritten law of these people 
 fixes the nationality of a child to the tribe in which the mother 
 was born and not according to that of his father. Nessugo 
 embittered the people's minds against Munza, and at last openly 
 declared himself a rebel. The Arabs turned these people's dis- 
 sensions to the profit of their infamous designs, and having formed 
 an alliance with Nessugo, who had fortified himself at the point of 
 intersection of the Vavu with the Makua, departed from the king's 
 house. They allied themselves secretly with the Bamba, who had 
 already extended their dominions as far as the Gadda, with Kubi 
 as their king. The reward for his promised aid was to be the 
 transfer of Munza's throne to Yangara, Magapa's son, brother to 
 Kubi. In order to strengthen their army, the conspirators had also 
 secured the assistance of Niapu. The Arabs' object was to take 
 advantage of the strife between the two families of Eru and Ndula. 
 Nessugo, although mistrusted, was apparently considered chief, 
 and was made use of as an instrument in the intrigue. The 
 conspirators departed from Nessugo's house, he, himself, satisfied 
 at the prospect of the impending revenge, which was to hand over 
 the throne to him ; El Mai and his Arabs anxious and watchful, 
 in order to secure the success which was to strengthen their 
 influence ; Yangara pensive and reserved on account of the crime 
 close at hand, and of the struggles which must be the consequence, 
 This was the political situation at that time. On this fatal night, 
 when the moon appeared on the horizon, it was not welcomed by 
 the usual dancing for joy, and music, but witnessed the flames of 
 a conflagration. 
 
 Ngasi* was burning in the plain below, the obscene imprecations 
 of feasting cannibals resounded, while on the banks of the Bitto a 
 few mourners were burying a body in a remote corner ; it was that 
 of the great king Munza. 
 
 Assailed by the delirious crowd of conspirators, Munza, accom- 
 panied by his faithful followers, had defied them in the open 
 ground, but his valour was useless ; his followers were outnumbered, 
 and fell slain round their king, whom they endeavoured to defend ; 
 and he, left alone, threw himself desperately on the weapons of the 
 enemy, and perished as a brave soldier. Of his past grandeur^ 
 only a heap of smoking ruins remained, and upon these the slave- 
 traders founded their dominion ; the foolish people had blindly aided 
 their own subjugation. 
 
 The Arabs proceeded without delay to the execution of their 
 * It was called Tangasi by the Arabs.
 
 NESSUGO AND THE ARABS. 8i 
 
 plans. Yangara was appointed chief of the Bamba, formerly 
 Munza's subjects ; Gambari, an obscure blacksmith, became prince 
 of the Kubi territory ; and Kadebo, an infamous traitor, that of 
 the Monfu tribe ; Kubi, himself defeated and a fugitive, was found 
 hiding in the bush, and barbarously killed. His brother, Yangara, 
 did not dare to utter even a murmur of grief. Gango, defeated on 
 Mount Tina, was found amongst the dead. Balanga, Munza's son, 
 having left his country, found a refuge among the Sandeh, where 
 he concluded a blood treaty with the chief Bauli, but the Arabs 
 by intrigues and pressure caused Balanga to be accused of plotting 
 against Bauli's life and authority. 
 
 Balanga, warned that armed men were marching towards his 
 village, left it and halted upon the banks of the river Neklima, 
 waiting for the enemy. 
 
 " 1 am a king's son," said he to the foes by whom he was assailed. 
 ^' I am not a slave. Kill me, if you choose, but I will not flee !" 
 
 His head, having been cut off, was brought to Bauli. 
 
 The Niapu had already settled in the country, and had tried, 
 under the leadership of El-Mai, to seize Kabrafa, lord of the Mege, 
 and brother to Munza. Being defeated several times, they retired 
 to the left bank of the Bomokandi, where they settled. 
 
 Azanga, at the request of his brother, Kabrafa, who abdicated 
 the throne, assumed the title of Nc-kiiiic of the Mambettu, and 
 adopted his nephew, ]\fbala, the only surviving son of Munza, as 
 his own child. 
 
 The scene is on the Makua. Deceived in his ambitious hopes, 
 Nessugo meditated plans of revenge, assisted by his younger 
 brother, Mambanga, a bold and intelligent man, full of hatred 
 against the perfidious strangers. Armed attempts having partially 
 failed, Nessugo assumed the appearance of obedience and friend- 
 ship, and became the accomplice of the Arabs in their attacks on 
 the territory of the Sandeh. 
 
 Having won their confidence, he formed the design of extermi- 
 nating them, by sending a present of dried meat prepared with a 
 subtle poison ; but he had the unlucky idea of trying to make 
 fun of them by mixing his present with pieces of human flesh — 
 a joke at which he openly laughed amongst his followers. 
 
 This imprudent boast injured the boaster himself ; for a woman 
 fled during the night to the Arab camp, and told them what they 
 were going to eat. Bold and sure of the success of his plan, 
 Nessugo appeared at the Arab camp next day, and saw with 
 astonishment and ill-disguised anger that the men were in 
 flourishing health. The Donagla, however, dissimulated, and 
 received the prince with their usual courtesy ; but on the third 
 day Beshir Salah, who commanded the troops, called together 
 Yangara, Rembi, aud Mondoghi, the first named chief of the Bamba, 
 the others of Niapu, and invited Nessugo to a council of war about 
 
 F
 
 82 
 
 TEN YEARS IN EQUATOKIA. 
 
 future operations. Nessugo set out to keep the appointment, but 
 on entering the camp a well-directed bullet wounded him mortally. 
 The domination of the Mambettu, though it ended by violence and 
 the dispersion of the whole tribe, left a permanent remembrance 
 of its achievements — its traditional influence on the arts, customs, 
 and usages. 
 
 DEATH OF KING KESSUGO. 
 
 The modes of dress, ornaments for the head, suj^erstitions, 
 weapons, utensils, dances, and festivities — all were moulded after 
 the Mambettu. 
 
 But above all, their language triumphed completely, though each 
 tribe remembered its original tongue. They all agree in consider- 
 ing it superior to all others, and as embodying glorious traditions ; 
 it also renders intertribal communications easier. 
 
 One day I was with the chief, Yangara, when Mbala amved on 
 a visit ; they all stood up at once. Yangara, having stepped for- 
 ward, invited him to occupy his own place, while he himself, as a 
 sign of respect, sat down on a lower bench ; it was the reflection 
 of his past grandeur, still bright, that inspired every one with 
 respect. 
 
 The dress is more or less handsome, according to the condition 
 of each individual : from the rich garment, red, brown, or grey, 
 extending with graceful folds from the shoulders to the knees, and 
 girdled by a thick cord of superior workmanship, to the rag more 
 or less hiding parts of the body and fastened by something similar 
 to string, there is a considerable gradation. The women limit
 
 MAMBETTU DRESS. 83 
 
 their dress to a little apron of doubtful effect. Although the 
 Mambettu women are less reserved than those of the neighbouring 
 tribes, I believe that to attribute excessive licentiousness to them 
 would be erroneous, for it is not always a consequence of ingenious 
 attempts to attract admiration. 
 
 The dress, called nugyhi by the Mambettu and roceo by the 
 Sandeh, is made of strips of the Urostigma bark, a sort of fig-tree, 
 which, being stripped and cleansed, undergoes a beating with 
 mallets or pieces of ivory, in order to expand its tissues evenly 
 without tearing it ; the strips are then joined to each other by 
 sewing, and the whole is coloured red either by soaking in a dye 
 made from the dust of a certain wood, or simply by burying it in 
 the mud for some hours. 
 
 The dressing of the hair requires a great deal of care ; it is 
 thoroughly cleaned and always shaped as a little tower leaning 
 towards the back, with a great many secondary variations, accord- 
 ing to the taste and fancy of each individual ; the hair on the 
 forehead is arranged into plaits, forming a network, and fastened 
 to the back of the head. They supply a deficiency of hair by using 
 false. 
 
 On the top of the tower the men wear a small straw hat nicely 
 plaited in various colours, and fixed by long pins of ivory or iron ; 
 some of them use pins made of human or chimpanzee bones ; the 
 women only use metal ones. They take as much care of the clean- 
 liness and ornamentation of the body as of the hair ; they use water 
 daily, and after washing the body they first anoint it with oil, and 
 then sprinkle it with the red powder of cam or adorn it with capri- 
 cious designs by means of the gardenia {Randia melliferct), which 
 stains black. Tattooing is performed on the arms and on the 
 body ; the noble castes are distinguished by special family emblems 
 tattooed on them ; women have them on the body and men on the 
 left hand. 
 
 Ornamental objects are generally much appreciated and wished 
 for in the Mambettu country, but the most costly and elegant is a 
 tuft formed of the red feathers from a gTey parrot's tail. This 
 bird, which is one of the delights of the chiefs and their courtiers, 
 is taken from the nest at a tender age, and reared in the huts, 
 where it is considered a pet, and affords amusement by its mock- 
 ing chatter. 
 
 At certain periods of the year its feathers are plucked, and be- 
 come a profitable trade article. They are cut into pieces, cleaned 
 carefully, cleared of marrow, and then formed into tufts, to be 
 appended to the shield and placed in the straw hat. 
 
 To this ornament the chiefs — for instance, Yangara of the Bamba 
 and Azanga Popo of the Mege — added two long white feathers, 
 plucked from the tail of the mandalongo, a variety of the Widow- 
 bird It is a sacred one, and it is considered a crime to kill it.
 
 84 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 It is caught by nets, and after being deprived of its precious 
 feathers, set free again. The use of this particular ornament is a 
 privilege of the king's, and I was told a very severe punishment — 
 even death — is inflicted upon any one who attempts to infringe 
 the prerogative. 
 
 Their weapons of war are shields, spears, bows-and-aiTows, and 
 the characteristic knife. The shield peculiar to the Mambettu 
 tribe is used all over the region ; it is constructed from a plank 
 made from the wncaria, only high enough to cover two-thirds of a 
 man's figure ; it is blackened by simply immerging it in the mould 
 of the streams, and is strengthened by a border all round, made of 
 Indian cane, and garnished with copper or iron studs; a band 
 made of the interwoven stems of plants is attached to both sides 
 of the shield, to enable the bearer to cany it on his arm. Although 
 large, it is light and easy to carry and handle, but deficient in 
 solidity. When the king goes to war he fixes the wing of a hawk 
 or swallow to its anterior side, which is considered a good omen 
 and a talisman for the safety of his life ; and it is imperative for the 
 king to Avear it, for his life is considered not only precious, but in- 
 dispensable. 
 
 A warrior always takes his shield when he goes any distance 
 from his dwelling. 
 
 The spears are of different kinds, and are almost all hollowed out 
 longitudinally, and placed on a wooden shaft, which must have 
 the elasticity and weight that are required to properly hurl the 
 weapon. The dimensions of its metallic point are proportionate to 
 the abundance or scarcity of minerals in the country. 
 
 The use of the spear and shield is reserved for warriors of 
 superior caste only ; the lower classes and slaves only cany bows 
 and arrows. The bow, which is partly made of iron, is differently 
 constructed according to the various tribes, but its size, and the 
 quality of the wood, are nearly always the same ; the string con- 
 sists of the bark of Indian cane. The only difference existing is in 
 the wood of the arrow-shafts, the mode of fixing the point, and the 
 ornaments. Some shafts are made of wood, others of cane ; oc- 
 casionally the metallic part is stuck in the shaft, and sometimes 
 the latter is stuck into the metallic part ; the blades of the arrows 
 are of different shapes, but in any case there seems to be no lack 
 of symmetry and proportion. The ornaments of the bow are 
 various, and are influenced more by the caprice of fashion than by 
 permanency of model. The bow is often carefully polished, and 
 bound at the ends, or entirely, with animals' skins, adorned with 
 the tails of a species of wild cat ; sometimes a small bell is at- 
 tached to its exterior centre, which is covered with a network of 
 iron wire ; but all these varieties are only the outcome of the dif- 
 ferent ideal of elegance in each individual. The dexterity with 
 which they handle their bows and spears is astonishing. Karbado,
 
 WEAPONS OF THE MAMBETTU. 85 
 
 the son of the chief of Bellima, threw his spear at thirty paces, and 
 stuck it firmly into a target marked on a tree ; the confidence 
 with which they destroy rats, flying serpents, and birds by means of 
 arrows is altogether incredible. 
 
 The lances used for hunting large animals have larger points 
 and stouter shafts. 
 
 The tromhash, or war-knife, which is a substitute for the sword, 
 has a blade like a siokle, and is sharpened towards the point at 
 both edges, and fixed into a wooden handle, which is partly covered 
 with iron or brass wire. This is the weapon of command and dis- 
 tinction ; the king, upon sitting down, places ifc on a stool close by, 
 and waves it when he is gesticulating during a long speech. It 
 is astonishing to see how ambitious the chiefs and warriors are to 
 possess the elegant and glittering tromhask — to be executed by such 
 a weapon is considered an exceptional honour. 
 
 The ivory pins, with which men fasten their straw hats and 
 women their hair, are worthy of mention. They are of different 
 shapes and of elegant simplicity ; the stem gradually increases in 
 size to the top, which has the shape of either a round, angular, or 
 zigzagged knob. The large pins, made of human or chimpanzee 
 bones, taper as well as the others, but are only polished on the top. 
 The elegance of all these objects might suggest the idea that the 
 tools used are perfect or nearly so ; but it is astonishing to see how 
 admirably these people can carry out the ideas which their inven- 
 tive minds conceive, with such imperfect and primitive means. 
 
 The tools of the Mambettu blacksmith consist of bellows con- 
 structed of two earthen vessels, whose openings are covered with 
 banana leaves softened and rendered flexible by fire, a small iron 
 anvil, some chisels, a rough hammer, and a piece of sandstone as a 
 file. 
 
 Patience and perseverance in repeatedly heating and hammering 
 the metal are the substitutes for better means, and give a degres 
 of finish which is not to be met with in the work of other tribes. 
 After having been hammered, the glowing metal is plunged into 
 the ground. 
 
 The blacksmith is an important person, and the most industrious 
 and skilful reside at the chief's house. The best ones understand 
 making very thin iron wire, small rings, circular shield ornaments, 
 and large pins similar in shape to the ivory ones, without files or 
 pincers ; the same articles are also made of copper and brass, with 
 no less precision and elegance. 
 
 Wood is carved with similar success, but only that which is soft 
 and easy to cut, the tools used being none the less primitive. 
 
 The hatchets are small and curved, stuck into a handle enlarged 
 at the end ; the knives are also small, and are sharpened by rub- 
 bing on a stone or piece of iron. Yet, with such meagre tools they 
 can produce some very remarkable work, being very skilful in
 
 S6 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 taking advantage of all the power which may be derived from heat. 
 Articles in ivory wrought by them, such as large pins, and bed- 
 stead legs, are much more worthy of admiration. It is almost 
 incredible, but it is without doubt a fact, that this work is done 
 with very imperfect tools. 
 
 Manufactures in wood consist of boats, beds, benches, utensils, 
 boxes, and shields. In this kind of work they are undoubtedly 
 superior to others, for the reason also that their iron is of a superior 
 quality. Here is what Dr. Schweinfurth says:* "Of all the 
 Africans, including the modern Egyptians, the Mambettu are the 
 only ones who use single-edged tools for this kind of work ; the 
 consequence is that the workman can place his finger upon the 
 other edge and has more control over the implement. Eemarkable 
 results in execution and finish are thus obtained in carving." 
 
 The halahra or angarcb, as the Arabs call it, is a bed formed of 
 the sticks of lielrrc (Palma rapJiia), and held together by cords made 
 of the fibres of puddo bark (Indian cane) ; they do not use nails ; 
 the legs are stuck into the sides of the bed and remain there, 
 because of their leaning position, and they construct benches in 
 the same manner. 
 
 The stools, called ne-hala, are generally used by women, for in 
 the Mambettu country no one squats at home or stretches on the 
 ground. The stools are made of a single piece of the wood of the 
 tincaria ; they are round, with concave seats, and have only one 
 leg, varying in style according to the taste of the workman. 
 
 Nc hamha is a sort of leaning bench made of the branches of 
 trees and supported only by two legs stuck in the ground ; the 
 arms are adorned with brass or iron-wire. This is an indispensable 
 piece of royal furniture. 
 
 The Mambettu people are more agricultural than warlike ; 
 favoured as they are with a fertile soil, an extraordinary abundance 
 of bananas, manioc, and sweet potatoes, the cultivation of w^hich 
 does not require much trouble. 
 
 The women do all the field labour with the exception of the 
 general preparation of the soil and the burning of fallen trees and 
 grass, which are done by the men. The chiefs and upper class 
 also employ labourers who have been captured in raids upon the 
 neighbouring • tribes, especially the Monfu. Agricultural imple- 
 ments are very deficient, for they only consist of a small, short- 
 handled spade called congo, and a double-edged knife blunt at the 
 end, called Jcito. 
 
 Their pottery is superior to that of the other tribes, both for the 
 elegance of the vessels and the facility of handling them. The 
 largest of the series, used for the preparation of beer, is called 
 hof/'uoqao ; the one used on the fire, dcJckelc ; the one for water is 
 smaller and called dckkelcngnc^ and then comes the bottle, hlimmio, 
 * '■ In the Heart of Africa" (Leipzig, Brockhaus, 1874), vol. ii. p. 120.
 
 MAMBETTU MANUFACTURES. 
 
 87 
 
 small, elegant, and strong, and adorned with reliefs of remarkable 
 workmanship. This is an indispensable companion to the tronibask^ 
 which is placed upon the stool by the king's side. 
 
 The management of the kitchen and honsehold is entrusted to 
 the women, who acquit themselves with remarkable cleanliness. 
 Everything is arranged in an orderly manner and with a sort of 
 symmetry ; so also are the weapons, beds, and seats. The sight 
 of the artistic vases, which form the best part of the splendour of 
 a house and are carefully kept, is very pleasing. 
 
 " The talent of the artist," says Dr. Schweinfurth, with his usual 
 precise description and detail, " especially shows itself in the 
 shape of the water bottles, some of which would compare favourably 
 with the most celebrated models of ancient Egypt."
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 EXTRACTS FROM GESSI'S DIARY. 
 
 Mambanga — Massacre of the Arabs — Heroism of Mambanga, " My son must not 
 fall into the hands of the Donagla " — The Mambettu — Despatch of troops — - 
 Assault on the military station — Panic of the soldiers — Dr. Junker — The 
 Mapingo — The Abarambo — Hunters — The wood-carving industry — The old 
 Mbruo — His supernatural powers — The Nuloomu — The chief Lugor of Latooka 
 — The dispenser of rain in Unyoro — Sad news — Death of Gessi Pasha — Frag- 
 ments of correspondence taken from the explorer's diary — Obstruction on the 
 Nile — Four hundred and fifty starved to death — Marno the deliverer — Cause 
 of the obstruction on the Nile — Meha and fula — Obstructions on the river 
 Ghazal — Presumable cause of the disaster — The Abarambo elephant hunters — 
 They are surpassed only by the Mege — Mode of bvmting in the Mambettu— 
 Biirning of the grass — Spear thrusts — The NcmhoJa — Division after the chase 
 — Rights of the King — Ivory — Surroundings of King Jacoda's dwelling — The 
 houses of Azanga — Gifts from deference — The Nemhrosse and the Xambonr/o-^ 
 The Nelcolubt — An elegant mortar — Riches in ivory — Necessity of tiying from 
 abuse of power— Yangara irritated by a minor chief — Vengeance and dis- 
 illusion — The buffaloes — Trophies of hunting and war. 
 
 Mambanga, at the time of his brother's death, had entrenched him- 
 self on the banks of the river Vavn ; but being attacked shortly 
 afterwards by the Arabs, led by a celebrated slave-dealer named 
 Mohammed Abdu, he succeeded in secretly leaving the village, and 
 gaining a plateau on the borders of a large wood, where he raised 
 extensive fortifications. One day the Arabs attacked him there, 
 but they fell into the snares he had prepared for them, and the 
 greater part were killed ; the w^omen, children, and slaves — the 
 crowd that always accompanies a native army in war time — became 
 the prey of the victors. 
 
 Mambanga possessed at that time (1880) about thirty muskets, 
 a number much inferior to those j^ossessed by the enemy, but being 
 a man of rare courage, of uncommon talent, and firm will, and 
 perceiving how difficult it would be to gain the victory, he threw 
 himself — at an opportune and decisive moment, into the thickest of 
 the fight, holding on his right arm his little son, an infant of about 
 two years old. 
 
 When asked later on the reason of this strange act, he replied, 
 " Had every hope been lost I would have killed my son with my 
 own hand. He never should have become a slave to the Donagla." 
 He conquered, however, and his fame and the fear of his name were 
 spread over the whole country. 
 
 The Province of Guruguru, as the Mambettu was called, had
 
 THE MAMBETTU ORACLE. 89 
 
 passed a little before this time from the jurisdiction of the Bahr-el- 
 Ghazal to that of Equatoria. The Governor had sent some troops 
 from Lado in order to ensure the safety of the roads and of the 
 country. The seat of this corps was at first in the countiy of the 
 Abarambo, as it was destined to avenge the insult suffered, and to 
 rout the dangerous and neighbouring enemy. 
 
 August 1881. — Mambanga did not keep them long waiting, but 
 marched resolutely towards the station, and, rushing impetuously 
 down the slope of the hills, reached the fortifications in defiance of 
 a hail of bullets, followed by his companions, whom he had known 
 how to inspire with his own daring and temerity ; and if a few 
 soldiers had not thrown themselves before him unobserved and by 
 quite a spontaneous and opportune movement prevented him, he 
 would on that day have trodden under foot the banner which 
 floated over the little fort. His retreat, which then became neces- 
 sary, was effected without much molestation on the part of the 
 Government troops, whose position, opposed to so valiant an enemy, 
 was not at all pleasant. 
 
 The deficiency of munitions of war, caused by the extraordinary 
 consumption of them on the day of the attack, depressed the spirit 
 of the soldiery, already disturbed and shaken by finding themselves 
 confronted by so formidable an antagonist ; whilst the Abisanga, 
 — improvised warriors, but faithful and fearless — would have 
 resumed hostilities with enthusiasm at the first sign given by their 
 intrepid chief. 
 
 Dr. Junker, who at that time was in the region pursuing his 
 minute and conscientious explorations, perceived with his eminently 
 practical mind the necessity of regulating the political condition 
 of the valley of the Makua. He undertook the task, and entered 
 into timely negotiations witli jMambanga, who, though he did not 
 absolutely repulse the proposals of peace, took time to consider 
 them. 
 
 As it is the custom amongst superstitious people, upon the most 
 simple occasions, to consult the book of fate, rather than to allow 
 reason and interest to govern their decisions, Mambanga resolved 
 to consult the Ma'pinrjo. What is the Mapinrjo ?- It is the oracle 
 of the Mambettu. Its responses are sacred. 
 
 On some sound, smooth branches of the banana tree arranged 
 horizontally, are placed in little heaps of three and three, small 
 wooden c}'linders anointed with oil. They fix the arrangement at 
 first in favour of the petitioner. Then they proceed to consult 
 the oracle. The Maiyingonhie, or priest of the Ma pi ago, demands 
 the answer, clapping his hands and crying, " Let truth prevail, 
 and falsehood fail." The rite is continued a certain number of 
 hours, sometimes for whole days. When the consultation ends, 
 the respective positions of the branches that have fallen or remain 
 give the reply.
 
 90 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 On the second clay Mambanga refused to accede to the proposals 
 made to him. 
 
 Spread over a vast territory, intolerant of regular government, 
 in groups of ferocious and savage families, the Abarambo had not 
 been able to resist invading immigrations. Conquered without 
 resistance, they bent under the stronger yoke, and submitted to 
 the condition of servants, which soon diminished the freedom of 
 their customs. Their natural roughness rendered them careless 
 of any better existence. Preserving their own original language, 
 they nevertheless adopted that of the conquering tribes, and thus 
 the unity of their race is slowly disappearing, and blending with 
 the new and preponderating element. P^xpert huntsmen, caring 
 little for husbandry, their genius is manifested in executing 
 carvings in wood ; statuettes to suspend to the waist ; boxes made 
 of the bark of trees, the lid of which is surmounted by a carved 
 human head ; guitars with their handles adorned with the face of 
 a man ; chests of a single piece of wood hollowed out ; and especially 
 figures of women in the nude, are all fruits of their patient toil ; 
 it is also noticeable that their study is always directed to the 
 representation of human beings, and never to those of animals. 
 
 The aged Mbruo welcomed us with great courtesy. He was an 
 enemy of the Arabs, and had fought against them with success, 
 supported by the principal Sandeh princes, whose protectorate he 
 had invited. He was opposed from the first to the ambitious 
 projects of Mambanga, welcoming, with enthusiasm, the troops 
 that the Egyptian Government had sent to him. A jovial man, 
 quite aware of his royal prerogatives, our visit afforded him an 
 opportunity on which he could display proofs of his supernatural 
 powers. One day, withdrawing from the annoyance of the sun's 
 rays, we were conversing with him under a pent-house erected 
 in the village square, when in a moment the sky darkened and 
 a violent wind arose from the south-east, rain descending in 
 torrents amidst flashes of lightning and peals of thunder. We 
 rose to seek a better shelter, but Mbruo smiled and detained us, 
 saying, in an authoritative tone, " I will hush the tempest, I have 
 the power to do so." He rose, gesticulating imperiously with his 
 hands, as if to drive away the clouds, and blowing again and again, 
 each time with greater force, into a magic whistle made of wood ; 
 but the tem]3est, for all reply, redoubled its violence. This time 
 the nakooma had failed at the proof. A desire to laugh seized 
 us, and, defying wind and rain, we set off at a run towards the 
 nearest dwellings, leaving the impotent sorcerer to his magic 
 struggle with the elements. 
 
 Sorcerers and dispensers of rain are very common in Africa, and, 
 venerated by the people, they extract not a little gain from their 
 industry. They exercise this prerogative with the assent of the 
 chiefs, who are the pontiffs of the sacerdotal order.
 
 A BINSA SORCERER.
 
 DISPENSERS OF RAIN. 91 
 
 The usual good nature with which the blacks accept their not 
 always successful impostures, sometimes, however, gives place to 
 a general indignation that finds expression in deeds of violence. 
 At Wakkala, the chief Lugor of the Latooka, was ignominiously 
 driven away after the failure of his efforts (which had already 
 been rewarded with large gifts) to cause rain to fall upon the 
 endangered crops. But, to strengthen superstition, a few days 
 afterwards a great quantity of rain fell and the wandering exile 
 was recalled to power. 
 
 It is said that in some cases when their deception and impotence 
 are discovered, they also meet with the punishment of death. 
 Thus we see that the dignity of Augur is not without peril. There 
 are no roses without thorns. 
 
 Later on, when in 1888 I was in Unyoro, a native complained 
 to me of the obstinate drought. 
 
 " And who is it," I demanded, " that regulates the fall of rain 
 in this country ? " 
 
 "Makama" (the king), he replied. 
 
 " Then address yourself to him ; he ought to supply it." 
 
 " We have already taken to him gifts of cows, goats, cloth 
 made of the bark of a tree (^muemJc), skins prepared for dresses 
 (tiumhe), and many other things, but up to the present we are still 
 in expectation of seeing our desires satisfied." 
 
 " Urge your need on Makama." 
 
 " Oh, we must not ; he knows his own business, and if he does 
 not make it rain, it is a sign that he has good reasons for not 
 doing so." 
 
 It struck me that fear had suggested these last words. 
 
 " And if you went to the king to beseech him," I ventured to 
 say, " what would he reply ? " 
 
 " He would kill me at once : to doubt his superior power is a 
 crime." 
 
 My pleasant interviews with Dr. Junker were troubled by most 
 sad news, brought to us by the European post, which we had at 
 first greeted with so much joy. Gessi had died at Suez, the victim of 
 a cruel illness, the consequence of unheard-of sufferings incurred 
 on his voyage up the river Ghazal, rendered still more serious by 
 the open hostility that broke out against him, after the departure 
 of Gordon, on the part of both Arabs and Europeans jealous of 
 his glory and of the high position he had acquired in the Soudan. 
 The particulars of that catastrophe I record in the very words of 
 Gessi, taken from his journal of the voyage : — 
 
 On board the Sofia, October 10, 1880. I am in the steamer going 
 to Khartoum ; in a fortnight we have only passed over the space that 
 is usually crossed in a day when the river is not obstructed by grass, 
 papyrus, and ambatsh.
 
 9 2 TEN \ 'EARS IN E QUA TOR I A . 
 
 Our provisions began to fail ; a third part of the men are suffering 
 from fever, and T have used up all the quinine. 
 
 It is nineteen days to-diiy past the time that we ought to have been 
 at Meshra-el-llek, and I tind myself still in the same place where I was 
 six days ago. 
 
 Starvation is at our doors ; already some of the soldiers, for three 
 days, have only had wild herbs, gathered amidst the papyrus, for 
 nourishment. 
 
 September 25, 1880. — We are proceeding in the steamer Safia, which 
 is towed by a slej), a nu(jgar, a sandel, and other boats, without experi- 
 encing any serious difficulty for five continuous hours. We have passed 
 the mouth of the river Jui-, and are stopped by a bariicade over a mile 
 long (about 1800 metres). 
 
 September 30. — This day we have been constantly under steam, 
 passing four other barricades ; but wood beginning to fail, they think 
 it prudent to tow the vessel by the capstan, extending the cable to the 
 shore. It was our wish to arrive as quickly as possible on the shores of 
 Bahr-el-Homr, where we should have been able to get the necessary 
 fuel ; but f i-om the difficulties that we encounter, the remaining distance 
 is still considerable. 
 
 I was not a little sui-prised at observing the deteriorated state of the 
 (jherlim ; in ordei- to equip the boat there were two cables and only one 
 yard. From the commencement of the voyage, soon after we had 
 Aveighed anchor, I had thought the captain incapable, and a stranger 
 to all that is i-equired for expert seamanship and for the management 
 of machinery. It was a continual " Stop," " Go ahead," " Full speed," 
 and "Stop," "Turn," "Full speed," and so on, enough to make the 
 calmest of men lose his head. The engmeers did not succeed in 
 executing a single order, and became confused, not knowing what 
 movement to make. Obseming this, I applied to a certain Meki Effendi 
 and to the officer Alsaga, and told them that with this commander we 
 might expect great delay, and that, in consequence, arrangements 
 should be madeto see that the soldiers did not consume more than half 
 rations a day. 
 
 October 9. — They are constantly toiling to remove a single l^arricade 
 of about 2h miles long (4u00 metres). The work on the part of the 
 people beconies from day to day more and more difficult ; they are so 
 weakened by continually remaining in the water. As we have plenty 
 of men at our disposal, I have advised the captain to divide the day's 
 work, making half the crew work in the morning till mid-day, and the 
 other half from noon till evening. He has promised to act on my 
 advice, but then he gave no order in compliance with my counsels ! 
 During these last nine days the work has been daily interrupted for two 
 or three hours by heavy rain. 
 
 The mosquitoes are a terrible scourge after dark; the people pass 
 sleepless nights, blaspheming and walking about. The captain ill-treats 
 the crew in a brutal manner ; they all have great scars, and one sailor 
 has the thumb of his left hand broken by a blow inflicted on him by a 
 piece of wood. 
 
 One sees, far ofl", the woody shores of Bahr-el-Arab, but it will take 
 an uninterrupted passage of four hours at least, to approach it. The
 
 GBSSI'S JO URNAL. 93 
 
 provisions are nearly all finished ; for they have not chosen to listen to 
 my advice. Our only hope in case of famine is to search amongst the 
 reeds for the plant sutej), which has the form of an artichoke, is full of 
 seeds smaller than millet, and is a substitute for dhurra. 
 
 October 1<). — About a mile off we saw clear water before us, and 
 trusted in another thi-ee days to be able to overcome this immense 
 bai'i'icade, but our hopes weie delusive. To-day a foi'midable storm 
 burst over us, followed for two hours by hailstones of extraordinary 
 size, which fell with such violence that in a few seconds they killed a 
 goat that had been forgotten and left out of shelter. The bridge had 
 hailstones on it as high, they said, as four inches (ten centimetres), the 
 heat not being strong enough to melt the great (]n:intity that fell. 
 
 This barricade was most fatal, for, after having been separated from 
 both sides, others surrounded us, and we were shut in as with a wall. 
 
 The passage in front of us is closed again, and we cannot see where 
 the water again becomes free ; even fi-om the masthead we cannot make 
 an exact calculation of the dimensions of the barricade. 
 
 I am strongly preoccupied, and very uneasy about the f utui-e, and am 
 thinking what I can do for the common safety. 
 
 To go back now is almost as diliicult as to advance ; to send messengers 
 to ask for aid is impossible. The two shores of the Bahr-el-Ghazal 
 being inhabited by savage tribes of Xuer, warlike and hostile, nothing 
 remains but to perseveie in the work and to get to the wood of Bahr- 
 el-Arab, where, pei-haps, we may find some sutep and has/mm. The 
 numerous hippopotami that I have met on other voyages, and which 
 might have fed us, are hei-e entirely wanting ; one hears then* grunts 
 at an immense distance, as well as the notes of water birds, but we see 
 none. I am miserably provided with rations ; I had eleven chests of 
 flour, and am i-educed to six, with a small residue of grain in twenty- 
 eight boxes that I have saved for any critical moment. 
 
 Disgusted at seeing my soldiers withdraw from work, I made some 
 observations aliout it to the officers because they did not urge them on ; 
 on the contrary, they showed themselves indifferent as to whether we 
 advanced or i-emained on the spot. They answered me that the soldiers 
 Avere hungry, and that they coidd exact no more of them, as they had 
 worked continuously for sixteen days, while the success ol)tained was as 
 nothing compared to that which remained to be done. 
 
 '• Well, what do you think of doing ? If we stai've to-day, to-morrow 
 we shall die.'' God has said, " Help thyself and I will help thee." 
 
 " Better die than work in vain." 
 
 ***** 
 
 Now, these gentlemen having learnt that I was retuiiiing to Khar- 
 toum, recalled and suspended from my post, believed that they need 
 not obey me, and in an underhand way set the soldiers agauist me, 
 declaring to them that I had led them to certain death by haAdng 
 neglected to take sufficient pi-ovisions for at least two months ; in con- 
 .sequence of this the manner of the Arab soldiers becomes more and 
 moie doubtful evei-y day ; I ne\-ei' lose sight of my thiee carbines now, 
 and at night one of my Mambettu sleeps across the entrance to my cabin. 
 
 October 20. — They work with all their might ; but the labom-ers fall 
 ofi'one by one to get down amongst the ruslies and chew the plants.
 
 94 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 The captain himself lemains in his cabin the whole day, selling grain, 
 absinthe, spirits, tobacco, honey, and tamarinds, at fabulous prices. 
 The cabin has become a real military canteen, and the captain a canteen- 
 keeper. Three soldiers and five children are dead : the foinier had 
 been ill for more than eight months, but eveiy one declares that they 
 had died of hunger. The oiiicers came and besought me to give them 
 the twenty-eight baskets of grain, and then the people would go to 
 work in the morning with zeal. 
 
 I consigned the grain to them, but it was very little amongst so 
 many, and I foresaw that in two days the same thing would happen. 
 
 October 22. — The soldiers begin to eat the skins that are used for 
 wrapping up tlie goods to keep them from the rain. 
 
 The discipline of the soldiers is destroyed. The captain promises to 
 overcome every difficulty when he is provided with wood. We get 
 some, but it is immediately consumed. Starvation, and its terrible 
 consequences, torment the eiew. 
 
 Gessi is reduced to three kilogrammes of barley and thirty cigars, 
 after having distributed his scarce provisions. But I had better 
 continue the journal of his voyage, written by his own hand. 
 
 November 15. — The moment is critical. There is no hope of being 
 saved ; every one is beginning to abandon himself to despair, and, 
 seated on the bridge with cast-down countenances, remains motionless, 
 expecting death. Up to this time, twenty children, nine soldiei's, and 
 eighteen women have died. They come to pray me to take eight men, 
 who are in health, to conduct me to Fashoda, to procure help. But 
 I think it dishonourable to abandon my post in the hour of danger ; 
 as it might be supposed that I only thought of my own safety ; and, 
 in the second place, to reach Fashoda across barricades of which the 
 thickness is unknown to us, even vtnder favourable conditions, would 
 take ten or twelve days, and as many more to find provisions and men 
 to relieve the crew, <tc. ; the third consideration is, that, to reascend 
 the river, we should require a steamer, and since the steamboats are 
 laid up there is every probability that we might not succeed m pro- 
 curing the means of returning. Besides, I had not the food necessary 
 for the voyage, either, for myself or for the men ; who, hard at work 
 all day, would not be able to overcome the difficulties without eating ; 
 and, finally, I should have been obliged to trav^erse a country thickly 
 populated with people who would desu'e nothing better than to avenge 
 themselves on its oppressors and the aggressors on then* land, who had 
 robbed them, and carried them off" to slavery for such a long time. 
 
 And thus, a series of troubles more terrible than death continued. 
 He was robbed of his few and remaining provisions ; his men died 
 daily by six and ten at a time ; the horrible, mouldy smell of the 
 dead bodies corrupting the air. The Pasha is assailed by fever, 
 passes over the river in the miggar of Ginan Bey, visits the Boraggi,. 
 and sends to collect some sutcp. 
 
 December 12. — The steamer left by me was able to approach. Dm-ing
 
 IMPENDING STARVATION. 95 
 
 this tremendous interval, Dongolese soldiers, women, and babies had 
 died. Our steamer still contained some men. The captain came on 
 board our boat, demanding that we should go and help him ; he had 
 again finished all the wood, and had not people enough to work. Then 
 my servant, the engineer, and others arrived, and we were informed 
 that the cjiptain had, for the second time, left the best pait of the wood 
 taken out of the old barge behind him ; that the men were sent on 
 shore to find sutep ; and that the captain, without waiting foi' them, 
 had departed, abandoning foity-thi-ee persons to the meicy of the 
 savages. The men, who had landed with great difficulty, again I'eached 
 the shore, but he refused to send the boat for them. 
 
 Through numerous difficulties, augmented by the captain's inatten- 
 tion, and amidst the horrors of hunger and death, the 31st of December 
 came. Anguish of soul was at its height. The period of the greatest 
 peril had arrived. I do not remember in all my life anything re- 
 sembling the food that the survivors ate that night. They cut the 
 breasts off the dead women and ate them raw ! It is impossible to 
 describe the horrors of the scene. A soldier devoured his own son ! 
 The next day the cannibals died ; and it is to be noted that the Arabs 
 were the first to feed on the flesh of the dead. Of ninety-two Sou- 
 danese soldiers only five remained alive, surviving with difficulty ; as to 
 the other fifty-seven soldieis, except twelve that I left in the nuggar 
 and in the shp, only three are alive, and in a despeiate state. I cannot 
 at this moment give an exact account of the moi-tality of the women 
 and children, but I believe that it overpassed the 270 men dead. 
 
 It is New Year's Eve — a very sad day for me ! I think of my home, 
 of my wife and my sons, who, in their joy, are ignorant of the frightful 
 position in which their father finds himself. These thoughts have 
 tormented me all day — in the midst of dead bodies that are decaying 
 in the pestiferous air, and surrounded by vultures in the midst of an 
 inextricable mass of i-eeds and papyrus. 
 
 January 1, 1881. — The day passed is the first of the year, and in 
 thought I send my salutations to my family, relatives, and fi-iends. 
 
 It was hardly seven in the morning when we called the people to 
 work, and amidst violent efforts, that only lasted for moments, a ray of 
 hope arose that we might make a short passage to the wood of Gudera. 
 But at the turn of the river we beheld a new bairicade, and discourage- 
 ment again took possession of oui- minds. 
 
 Gessi writes his last wishes. 
 
 January 5. — So yesterday evening, after having made my plans, I 
 went to seek repose ; insomnia having prevented me from closing my 
 eyes for some time. I found myself in Ginan Bey's old barge, when all 
 at once, I hear a discharge of musketry ; the flag is run up ; the people 
 shout "a steamer" "a steamer." It is the IsmaiUa\ Great God ! 
 May His will be done ! I shed tears and could not restrain my emotion. 
 The whole crew came to kiss my feet and hands. God be praised ! We 
 are saved ! 
 
 Then when the steamer Boordeen approached the Sajia, I was on 
 board the nuggar, and a bai'ricade prevented us from meeting. We
 
 96 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 made way with the boat, and, having overcome tlie difficulties, arrived 
 close by hci- and saw the face of a European, but could not distinguish 
 who it might be. 
 
 He asked whether His Excellency the Pasha was in the boat, and I 
 rose and asked to whom I had the pleasure of speaking. 
 
 " To Marno." 
 
 Is the reason of such a disaster to be entirely attributed to the 
 obstruction caused by the grass and weeds ; or did it proceed in 
 great part from the absolute incapacity of the captain of the &ajia ; 
 from the want of discipline in the soldiers ; from the scantiness of 
 provisions, even from the first day ; and, also, from the badness of 
 the cables and ropes and of all the other materials more than ever 
 needed during a difficult navigation ; and from the unfitness of the 
 steamer for passing these parts of the river ? 
 
 The obstructions of the Nile, according to the opinion of illus- 
 trious navigators, are caused by the very slight declination of the 
 land that causes inundations on a large scale, fills the cavities in 
 the ground, and forms small lakes with open canals, even in the 
 dry season ; these small lakes, isolated or united to others, are 
 called inilm if not deep, and fula when they have water in them at 
 all seasons. They naturally change their form and size on the 
 recurrence of the rainy season ; they lie scattered about by hun- 
 dreds, and render navigation intricate and difficult. With the 
 increase of the waters, the high grass at the bottom of the lakes is 
 loosened and the winds and tempests drive it down the Nile ; and 
 the choking of the passage at the points where the banks of the 
 river are high, not permitting a free passage to this floating mass, 
 produces its agglomeration, and, by the pressure of additional 
 herbage, forms a compact elastic mass, strong enough to support 
 the weight of a man. 
 
 Now, in the River Ghazal there are not mclia and fuJa in great 
 numbers, so that reaches are seen at regular intervals ; the tenacity, 
 therefore, of the barricade does not usually in this river present 
 characteristics of size in proportion to those we encounter on the 
 Nile. Therefore we believe that the navigation would not have 
 been stopped by the barricades, as it happened, if there were not 
 
 other extraneous causes, that remain up to the present mysterious. 
 
 ***** 
 
 The Abarambo are brave hunters of elephants, and the Mege 
 alone surpass them in skill. They devote themselves to hunting of 
 different kinds, according to the time of year, and the amount of 
 preparation required. 
 
 When the timt- ai'rives for the grass to be burnt, the company of 
 hunters assemble, and the chief arranges each person's part in the 
 operations, of which the principal are driving the animals together, 
 killing them, and burning the grass. The men charged with 
 driving, occupy a large zone of ground, and by beating drums put
 
 ELEPHANT HUNTING. 97 
 
 the animals in motion, managing to drive them into a pre-arranged 
 spot, which ought to be grassy, where men appointed for the work 
 assembled in a good number, set fire to all the surroundings. The 
 elephants, terrified by the flames, rush into precipitate flight ; they 
 butt the fire, and, becoming furious, dash at all points, when the 
 greater part, blinded by the smoke and overtaken by the flames, 
 fall and die in a short time. The few which succeed in reaching 
 the only and narrow way left open, rush there as to a place of 
 safety, but they fall into the traps prepared by the hunters, who 
 kill them with lance- thrusts. The drum beats the alarm, and 
 announces the presence of one or more elephants ; in a second, men 
 arrive with shield and lance, and direct their steps towards the 
 place indicated, where, posting themselves, they stand ready to 
 assault the pachydermata. These either feed, unconscious of the 
 peril that hangs over them, or, seized with suspicion, direct their 
 course to some known path. The hunter to whom an animal 
 exposes its side, throws his lance vigorously at it, and, having 
 struck the chosen spot, the elephant falls, when all approach and 
 kill it ; but if the wound is not fatal, the infuriated animal rushes 
 at its foe, and then begins a struggle between the hunter and wild 
 beast, many times human victims paying a dear price for their 
 prey. 
 
 The mhongo (as the elephant is named by the Abarambo, is called 
 noco by the Marabettu, and mhcina by the Sandeh) is ensnared by a 
 special trap, called nembola. Two stakes are driven firmly into the 
 ground ; they are joined at the top by a third, fixed transversely 
 across them ; a piece of a heavy trunk of a tree, to the lower part 
 of which is fixed a sharp pointed knife or arrow, is suspended to 
 this transverse beam by a cord, which is held down by a stake that 
 is directed horizontally towards the middle of the trap ; and by 
 another which, at a convenient angle, is interposed between this 
 and the cord. The animal, striking with his feet, loosens the con- 
 trivance, which then falls violently ; the knife wounds the animal 
 with singular exactness in the spot where the brain unites with 
 the nape of the neck. The blow falls like a thunderbolt, and if the 
 trap is well-made, the elephant struggles and dies. It is un- 
 necessary to add that the apparatus should be fixed to trees where 
 available, and skilfully hidden with shrubs, and the like. The 
 division of the booty, after the hunt, is regulated by customs that 
 are as rigorous in their application as laws. The king has a right 
 to the choice of one of the tusks, the feet, and the trunk. In case 
 the animal has only one tusk, this belongs to the Sovereign. 
 
 Ivoiy constitutes one of the riches of princes : powerful is that 
 king who has vast magazines full of the precious production. 
 
 Jacoda, chief of the Maigo, has the enclosure of his royal resi- 
 dence surrounded with pales of colossal elephants' tusks ; Azanga 
 adorns the doors of his habitation with ivory. Minor princes coming 
 
 G
 
 98 
 
 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 to render reverential homage to a great king, are accustomed to 
 lay before him pieces of ivory, valuable from their size, colour, or 
 brilliancy of surface. 
 
 Ivory is also used for artistic works ; with the largest pieces 
 they make trombones, with a small oblong opening at the lower 
 
 THE " NEMBOI.A," AN ELEPHANT TRAP. 
 
 end. The sound of this instrument, called nemhrossc, is similar to 
 the trumpeting of an elephant. A smaller horn, used by the 
 inferior chiefs, is adapted to the chase and to announce the arrival 
 of great personages. The Mambettu call it nanibongo, and the 
 Sandeh nhaia. These last do not use the ncmhrosse. 
 
 They also make elegant mortars, which are used to crush seeds
 
 A REBEL CHIEF. 
 
 99 
 
 and herbs, but not wheat ; they are called nccoliihe by the Mam- 
 bettu and sangu by the Sandeh. 
 
 It is the general custom of the natives to adorn themselves with 
 bracelets and lai-ge pins, carved from the smallest pieces of ivory. 
 The ambition of the chiefs to be rich possessors of ivory is such 
 that numerous wars arise between the tribes on account of it. 
 
 The less powerful (in order to escape from their neighbours' 
 rapacity and abuse of power) generally conceal their riches very 
 cunningly, and the tusks, without being unduly displayed, are 
 buried with the greatest secrecy, by trustworthy men, on the shores 
 of rivers. 
 
 I remember the day on which the hut of the Chief Yangara, 
 usually joyous with songs and dances, suddenly echoed with the 
 sounds and cries of war, and he, dressed in military array, followed 
 by an armed crowd, with shouts, applauses, and war songs, de- 
 scended the hill, directing his steps towards the forest. The 
 women and children followed their warrior husbands and fathers 
 for a certain part of the way. 
 
 I thought the country must be in great peril, but it only meant 
 that one of the minor chiefs, subject to the king, had killed an 
 elephant, and posing in the attitude of a rebel, had refused to lay 
 before the king the tusk and feet of the wild beast. His punish- 
 ment was ferocious ; his village was burned, and its inhabitants 
 left the country and placed themselves under the rule of another 
 chief. Yangara returned to his residence without any booty, and 
 with only the joy of seeing a vortex of flames and smoke. 
 
 They hunt the buffalo in the same manner as the elephant, but 
 with greater danger and frequent struggles. The trophies of the 
 chase consist of the skulls of slain animals. They are fastened to 
 the dried trunks of trees in proximity to the residence of the 
 hunter, and are a real blazon, that attest his courage in hunting, 
 as the skulls of the slain in war prove the courage of the warrior.
 
 ( lOO ") 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 THE AKKA TRIBES. 
 
 Queen Nenzima — Woe to him who suspects Caesar's wife — Souvenir of youth — 
 King Yangara — Fond of sermons — Honour to Bacchus — The Aioa — Dancing — 
 The Beie — The Cobesore — The J3ancUma— Feminine coquetry — Warlike panto- 
 mimes — Frantic women — The N^ebi — Sorcery to drive him away — The Atherura 
 africana — The Cricctomys gambianus —The 31homa — The Pigmies — A skeleton 
 in the British Museum — The Akka and the Tiki-Tiki — Apparent differences — 
 Efe — Marriages — Superstitions — Huts — Household furniture — They are not 
 cannibals — The method of government — Omnivorous — Modes of payment — 
 Weapons — Elephant hunters — The Akka women as foragers — Undaunted and 
 feared warriors — They are conscious of their own merit — Anecdotes — The 
 mode of trying and punishing criminals— Homicide — Theft — Adultery — 
 Sorcery — The brave — Horrible mutilation — The Xungo — Poultry according to 
 the laws of Yangara — The royal table — Tennes mordax — A butterfly which 
 may cost one's life — " Anyeku me kotu, anyehu me Jcotu." 
 
 Nenzima, Munza's sister, was the queen of the Court of Yangara ; 
 she had no children, and was the prime ruler of politics and origi- 
 nator of the whims of the Government. To the women who sur- 
 rounded her she was superior, if not in youthful beauty, certainly 
 in the dignity of her person. Her husband loved and feared her, 
 and she inspired him with that respect for the Mambettu which he 
 had always shown. 
 
 Woe to him who suspected Caesar's wife ! 
 
 On the day of the fatal fall of Munza's empire she was enslaved 
 by the Donagla, and was afterwards given by them as a token of 
 their alliance, to Yangara, who felt honoured at a marriage which 
 connected the glory of the Eru with the family of the Ndula. 
 
 Nenzima, proud of her own ascendancy, was the inspirer of her 
 husband's actions, but jealousy sometimes caused her to be cruel, 
 and often also her cannibal instinct revived with the memory of 
 her youthful years. 
 
 The king, a man of weak mind, oscillated between good and 
 evil in all his actions, and in the end followed his wife's advice ; but 
 he was a sociable man, ready to oblige any one, though prudent, 
 whenever interest or fear impelled him to be so. He had a cheer- 
 ful disposition, was careful of his own person, and proud of the 
 royal dignity : he had a vehement love for sermons, and, like all 
 the blacks, he sjDoke fluently, interlarding his speeches with jests 
 and a subtleness worthy of a lawyer. 
 
 Dressed in the national costume, standing and grasping an
 
 Ki:^G Y ANGARA. loi 
 
 elegant tronibask in his right hand, with moderate and suitable 
 gestures and powerful voice, sometimes calm and sometimes 
 animated, he knew how to gain the admiration of his hearers, who, 
 electrified and excited to delirium, applauded him vehemently on 
 his resting at the conclusion of his speech. 
 
 I had the opportunity of witnessing some of these meetings and 
 of seeing him laugh for joy, which he really felt, in answer to my 
 congratulations. 
 
 The prevailing population in Yangara's country consists of 
 Bamba and Niapu, but there are colonies of Sandeh, Maigo, Abar- 
 ambo, and Mambare. The language and customs of the Mambettu 
 are generally adopted, and although only a few families of this ; 
 conquering tribe remain, they are always respected on account of 
 their lineage. The men are generally warriors : they spend the 
 day in idleness, not at their own homes or village, but at the chief's 
 house, indulging in the delights of awa and tobacco. 
 
 Household cares and field labours are entrusted to women and 
 slaves ; the head of the family returns for the evening meal. One 
 of the necessary, I should almost say indispensable, qualities per- 
 taining to a warrior, especially to a chief, is that of being a hard 
 drinker. The aiva, a beer made of corn, is the most common 
 and the most pleasant to their palate ; it cannot be made by 
 everybody, for it requires a large quantity of corn and careful 
 preparation. Queen Nenzima deservedly had the reputation of 
 being a good brewer; the telabicn^ being cleaned and washed 
 several times, is steeped in water containing boqiioquo for several 
 days and allowed to macerate ; then it is taken out and spread on 
 a layer of banana leaves, and as soon as it shows signs of budding, 
 it is dried in the sun and then ground. With this flour a sort of 
 porridge is made, which is diluted with a sufficient quantity of 
 water. 
 
 While fei-mentation is proceeding, the liquid is placed on a fire 
 to simmer for a long time, and then it is filtered and poured into 
 vessels, where some more germinating telabun flour is added to it. 
 The liquid, after being filtered a second time, is a clear foaming 
 beer, which is rather pleasant to the taste and of a beautiful reddish 
 colour. 
 
 The blacks, without exception, have a decided predilection for 
 dancing. Marriages, hunting, a victory, or visits from friends, are 
 all occasions of feasting, which usually commences in the after- 
 noon ; and when the nights are gladdened by the splendour of the 
 moon, dancing is an amusement that goes without saying. 
 
 The women sit on stools in a large circle, and the men behind 
 them ; the musicians, with nuggarc made of skins, are placed on 
 one side. Then a man appears who has half of his face smeared 
 with cinders, his head covered with monkey skins, and his arms 
 adorned with tails of the wild cat and boar : he has small iron
 
 I02 
 
 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 bells attacliecl to his neck and feet. He moves round, describing 
 long curves, leaps and cuts odd capers, continually increasing his 
 speed, but in perfest agreement with the rhythm of the drums and 
 song of the women. The performer bows to the audience in a 
 humorous manner. The dance is called heu^ and is more or less 
 amusing, according to the talent of the " Merry- Andrew." 
 
 The eohcsore is a challenge of skill and endurance between two 
 champions ; the speed of the dance gradually increasing in a 
 prodigious degree, the applause of the spectators becomes more 
 and more frantic in proportion as it proceeds. The feast is tenni- 
 nated by a general galop called bandima, in which one of the 
 cleverest dancers is placed in the centre of the others, who jump 
 round him at a distance. 
 
 WARLIKE TOURNAMENT. 
 
 Properly speaking, the women do not take any part in dances, 
 but towards the end, aroused by the excitement of the proceedings 
 and the strange confusion of sounds, they mix themselves up with 
 the men. The females appear at these feasts elegantly adorned, 
 with a flower of some sort in their hair, their wrists and ankles 
 encircled by iron or brass ornaments, rings on their fingers, and 
 necklaces of beads or made of the nzolmrjo berries {Musa cnsctc). 
 Most of them stain the face and breast, and even the whole body, 
 with the sawdust from red wood ; the custom of appearing in 
 public on certain days with a red painted body is a token of 
 affection, and by it an affianced woman seeks to attract her lover. 
 
 The king only gives a proof of his skill in dancing upon certain 
 occasions ; the entertainments which he often gives to his women 
 consist of warlike pantomimes.
 
 NATIVE DANCES. 403 
 
 I was once invited by Yangara to one of these tournaments. 
 The king was glittering with arms and ornaments. Parrot feathers, 
 leopard skins, lances embellished with brass, a brightly studded 
 shield, boars' tails hanging on his back, armlets of iron wire to 
 the elbow, gaiters of the same metal, and a tower-shaped hat, 
 fixed by large pins, adorned him. His women could not refrain 
 from showing admiration and pleasure to their lord by clapping 
 their hands and loud cries. 
 
 At these royal feasts the principal people of the kingdom are 
 honoured by being requested to beat the drums, clash their 
 weapons, and blow ivory horns. 
 
 The spectacle is a sham fight. Single warriors open the action 
 by jumping forward and parrying with their shields, kneeling, 
 and hurling spears ; thus giving evidence of their skill. Their 
 rivals approach with arrows, leaping behind obstacles, stretching 
 themselves on the ground, running in a stooping position, and 
 waving the bow as a defiance to the enemy. 
 
 The first fighters have already increased in number, and war 
 cries prove the excitement of the struggle. 
 
 Here comes the king — handsome, nimble, elegant, and dis- 
 tinguished by the richness of his ornaments. 
 
 His presence causes the wildest acclamations. His women 
 become frantic, and stand up gesticulating and shouting. His 
 clever handling of the spear and shield, the rapidity and animation 
 of his movements, as well as the regularity and precision of his 
 performance, attract special attention. The king returns to his 
 warriors, smiling and cheerful, and goes round saluting the Court 
 ladies and his friends, and complacently receives the loyal praise 
 of the courtiers. 
 
 The great trumpet sounds the war cry ; there is general 
 silence, the troojls move forward with the king at their head, the 
 miggare resound — halts, movements to and fro, and the fight is 
 resumed ; lances are thrown, whilst cries and war songs are heard. 
 Suddenly the king throws his spear, and the rest follow suit, 
 waving the trotiibask, and storming the enemy. There is a 
 hand-to-hand fight, with a simultaneous burst of applause. 
 Then the king retires to his apartments, possibly to wipe his royal 
 brow. 
 
 " Ne angassegi (I salute you)," said Yangara to me, as he was 
 taking a seat near me, after coming from his dwelling. 
 
 " I congratulate you upon your rare skill in handling the spear 
 and shield," I replied. 
 
 " Oh ! I was only a boy when I followed my father, Magapa, 
 neri annundeia maia napo (to hunting and to war). The Ndula 
 must be warlike. Their nalifui (blood) is mixed with that of 
 the Eru." 
 
 " And how splendid your ornaments were ! Please tell me to
 
 I04 
 
 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 what kind of animal the little white skin belongs ? The one that 
 was suspended from your girdle in front of you." 
 
 " It is the skin of a nebi, which is an ornament reserved exclu- 
 sively for the king. When this animal is killed, it must, by the 
 law, be brought to me." 
 
 " And if some one were to break this law, what would be the 
 consequence ? " 
 
 " Imma oiiajjua (I would cause him to be executed)." 
 
 " But what sort of animal is this nehi ? " 
 
 " It is as large as a little ncscM ne conze ne sessanye (a short- 
 legged dog), with a skin of the colour of ne tobo (tobacco) when it 
 is not quite dry, and with black bristles upon the head and snout." 
 
 DENDROHYKAX EMINI. 
 
 " And where does it usually live ? " 
 
 " In the forest, and it feeds on wild fruits and roots. Odic teo 
 ando cti quoquo (it lives on high trees)." 
 
 " Is it difficult to catch ? " 
 
 " Amombe (certainly so) ; it is very hard to find, and very shy, 
 running away at the least noise. There is only one way of 
 catching it." 
 
 '• What is that ? " 
 
 " The munhele (enchantment)." 
 
 " How is that done ? " 
 
 " In this manner. The tree where the nchi goes for the night 
 is singled out at dusk ; then noiselessly, and in the dead of the 
 night, a lance is placed against the tree. The nebi is thereby 
 enchanted, and unable to descend." 
 
 " Indeed ! and then ? "
 
 ZOOLOGICAL COLLECTIONS. 105 
 
 " In the morning some one returns to the spot without moving 
 the lance, and the animal O'pita ne hanyuro (is killed with arrows)." 
 
 " You make me wish to have a better knowledge of this animal. 
 Could I get one ? ' 
 
 " Oh, that is not difficult. I will give orders to my hunters for 
 the purpose ; and if you have patience enough to wait, you shall 
 see one." 
 
 " I should like a live one if possible." 
 
 " I will try to get one for you, but it is improbable that I can 
 procure you a full grown one, because they bite with their sharp 
 teeth, and the wounds do not heal easily." 
 
 After a little while, he sent me a specimen of a very young nebi, 
 which died a few days after. I caused the skin to be taken off, 
 and sent it to Dr. Emin Pasha, together with numerous other 
 mammalia, birds, and butterflies. These objects are included and 
 classified in the Zoolofjical Collections made hji Einin Pasha in 
 Equatorial Africa, a pamphlet published in London, and are in the 
 British Museum. The nchi is therein described as a new species, 
 under the name of Dendrohyrcvx Emini. Amongst them the follow- 
 ing are also worthy of mention : the Atlicrura afvicana^ Cricctomys 
 gamhianus, Anomcdus imssillus, and a nice little duck with brown 
 wings and a yellow and brown body, which was named Qucrquedula 
 Hartlaahi. 
 
 The Athcrura africana, called holia by the Mambettu, is a porcu- 
 pine, smaller than the common one, its body is covered with shorter 
 bristles, and the tail ends in a sort of tuft ; it constructs its abode 
 in lofty places, digging numerous galleries with several exits ; if 
 taken in a trap the animal struggles so hard to escape as to 
 leave one leg in it, but it generally succeeds. Its flesh is much 
 appreciated. 
 
 The Assamba (Cricetomys gambianus) has the shape and charac- 
 teristics of a large rat ; it digs subterranean passages near streams, 
 with two exits, and feeds only every other day. The hunting of 
 this animal is very difiicult, because it is shy and cunning beyond 
 belief; watching a spot before venturing into it, and also causing 
 traps to spring uselessly by means of its tail ; its flesh is considered 
 excellent meat, even by the inhabitants of the Unyoro country, 
 where it is to be found. 
 
 The flying squirrel (inboma) lives in the forests, almost always 
 upon the branches of the trees, whence it throws itself, expanding 
 the membrane which joins the feet to the body, like a parachute. 
 The skin is used as an ornament. I think it is identicrJ with the 
 one very common in the Island of Ceylon, which is almost tame. 
 
 At the King's Court there were several men of small stature, who 
 attracted the attention and curiosity of the natives themselves ; not 
 only on account of their form, but also from the history of their race 
 and peculiar customs. These people wei-e the Akka.
 
 io6 
 
 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 Since the remotest antiquity, the autonomous existence of small- 
 sized men in Central Africa was pointed out by tradition. It used 
 to be considered as the outcome of poetical imagination, and its 
 record in history was attributed to the tendency of authors to mix 
 
 fables with truth, con- 
 \\-^- ' 1 sequently the matter was 
 
 '■-\vjiii„ \ banished into the realm of 
 
 myths, but only, however, 
 till the year 1871, when 
 Dr. Schweinfurth scien- 
 tifically explained it, after 
 his visit to King Munza's 
 Court. 
 
 From that day the at- 
 tention of geographers 
 ^^^2^^ and the study of men of 
 science were carefully 
 and constantly directed 
 to the purpose of gather- 
 ing and sifting informa- 
 tion, in order to tear 
 aside the veil and bring 
 the subject with its two 
 asjDects, anthropological 
 and ethnographical, fully 
 into light. 
 
 During my sojourn 
 with the Mambettu, I 
 was enabled, in the course of my explorations in the Monfu, 
 Sandeb, and Mege regions, to observe not a few specimens of that 
 curious group of the human race, and to collect information as to 
 their customs and usages. 
 
 Unfortunately, owing to the robbery which I suffered at Unyoro, 
 the only actual result of my careful work on this point is the 
 skeleton of a female pigmy, which I presented to Dr. Emin Pasha, 
 and which is now deposited in the British Museum. 
 
 South of the regions occupied by the Sandeh, and between the 
 Mege, Maigo, Monfu, and Mabode tribes, there are numerous 
 colonies of small, but proud, independent, and dreaded men. They 
 call themselves Efe, but are called Akka by the Mambettu, Tiki- 
 Tiki by the Sandeh, Voshu by the ]\Ionfu, and Afifi by the Mabode. 
 The name of Tiki-Tiki is also sometimes heard in the Mambettu 
 country, but it is worth while to explain the difference between 
 them. The small, nimble men, with reddish-brown skin, thickly 
 covered with hair, inhabit the forests, and are called Akka ; but 
 the taller ones, with more vigorous limbs, inhabiting lofty localities, 
 and having a darker skin, covered with stouter but fewer hairs, are 
 
 FLYING SQUIRREL (MBOMA).
 
 THE PIGMIES. 107 
 
 called Tiki-Tiki. The difference exists, but is it a variety of the 
 same species ? 
 
 The Akka and the Tiki-Tiki are not often friendly, but are 
 generally at open war with each other. 
 
 They have a stature which varies between 4 feet and 4 feet 
 9 inches high, but most of them are no taller than 4 feet 6 inches. 
 They speak a special dialect (not the same everywhere), a derivation 
 of an original language, which has been altered by contact with 
 other peoples. 
 
 The Akka, included in the country between the Bomokandi and 
 the Nepoko, call father, afa; mother, auja ; water, onu ; fire, opi ; 
 arrow, abi ; and bow, seha. On the contrary, the Monfu give to 
 the aforesaid things the names of /«a, na, eou, (/uss^, kehi, seha. 
 
 Their head is covered with abundant woolly, reddish-brown hair, 
 with single curls. The adult men have hair on their cheeks and 
 chin. The names which they give themselves individually are 
 curious and original, such as Otikogi, jViamhando, and ApuDioclo, for 
 males, and Mamcri, Imma, Tipckitanga, for females. Most of them 
 are completely nalced. Amongst those who wear any covering, the 
 men use a piece of bark roughly beaten out and flattened, fixed by 
 a string passed round the waist. The v/omen wear simply a couple 
 of leaves or so. The former use no ornaments of any kind, and the 
 latter do not pierce their ears. 
 
 When the men marry they purchase (or free) their wives from 
 their father by payment of a certain number of arrows. 
 
 Each family rules itself, and its cooking is done separately. In 
 case of death, they bury the body in the very place where the death 
 occurred, without ceremony or any sign for future remembrance. 
 The shadow of death does not oppress their minds, and sorrow takes 
 no hold of their hearts — a stoicism inherited from nat are, and not 
 learnt in any philosophical school. 
 
 They have no medicines whatever, no sorcery, and no supersti- 
 tions — not even that of the evil eye. They do not know how to 
 kindle a fire quickly, and in order to get one readily at any moment, 
 they keep the burning trunks of fallen trees in suitable spots, and 
 watch over their preservation like the Vestals of old. 
 
 The huts of the Efe are small, and scarcely capable of holding 
 two persons. But those of the pigmies in the forests of the 
 Avamba country, on the right bank of the Semliki, generally con- 
 tain one or more cots for infants. 
 
 The family dwelling is a semispherical hut about 4 feet 9 inches 
 high, with a diameter of about 6 feet 6 inches, covered with large 
 ■phrygnum leaves — -a plant which they call tchi, and which the 
 Mambettu call gongohu. These huts are usually scattered in the 
 forests, or over the hills. They seldom foi*m a village, but along 
 the bank of the river Teli, a tribe of Akka, ruled over by chief 
 Mgalima, lived in villages.
 
 io8 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 The luxury of a hut, however, is not general, and a good many 
 families live without any shelter a.t all, on the side of a stream, or 
 in the thickets of the forest. 
 
 The Akka, with a few exceptions, use no vessels either earthen 
 or wooden ; a sharp arrow is a substitute for a knife, and they 
 roast the meat and bananas over glowing fires, and quench their 
 thirst at the nearest stream, the hollow of the hand serving as a 
 glass. They are not cannibals, and the fact was confirmed to me 
 by the chiefs Azanga and Kanna, who had the Akka several times 
 as auxiliaries in war. 
 
 They told me that after a fight, while the Mambettu, Mege, 
 Sandeh, and Abarambo threw themselves upon the dead and 
 wounded to devour them, the little men would scour the country 
 in search of fruit and roots. 
 
 They crowded King Muuza's Court, but only as hunters of 
 chimpanzees, monkeys, boars, and gazelles. 
 
 Each tribe acknowledges a chief, who claims hereditary investi- 
 ture, and rules according to traditional usages ; he is the judge in 
 every contention ; directs hunting, raidirg, and expeditions, and 
 commands the warriors in action ; he wears no sign of distinction, 
 and has no Court about him, yet is feared and respected by tradi- 
 tional law. 
 
 Any food is acceptable to them. They eat the flesh of elephants, 
 buffaloes, boars, and gazelles, as well as that of rats, locusts, fish, 
 reptiles, and white ants ; they purchase or steal bananas, use no 
 salt, and rear do poultry. 
 
 After a successful hunt, when they possess abundance of meat, 
 they invade the banana groves, and for every bunch of fruit 
 gathered they substitute a piece of meat. 
 
 Their armament consists of arrows, small lances, and shields. 
 They buy the first from the neighbouring tribes, bartering game, 
 but make the shields themselves, by plaiting strips of Indian bark. 
 The shield has a long oval form, about 20 inches high and a foot 
 broad. The use of the arrow is general, and is their characteristic 
 weapon. The habit of carrying the shield and spear is imitated 
 from the neighbouring tribes, and is confined to a small number of 
 individuals, principally for hunting purposes. The skill of these 
 little men in handling the bow is really astonishing : a quick eye, 
 a clever hand, rapidity in shooting, and bravery make them in- 
 comparable archers. 
 
 They are not afraid of confronting the elephant ; and after 
 having destroyed his sight by wounding both eyes with arrows, 
 the body of hunters fall upon the gigantic animal and spear him 
 to death ; then they encamp upon the spot and remain there till 
 the victim's flesh is entirely consumed. 
 
 They kill the buffalo in a similar way, and also destroy smaller 
 animals and birds with arrows, and seem to have no idea of the use
 
 E»^aj,-;:K-»
 
 THE PIGMIES AS WARRIORS. 
 
 109 
 
 of nooses and nets for that purpose. The pigmies' skill in fishing 
 is very limited, for it consists of simply enclosing a part of a small 
 stream by dykes, which, being emptied, they clear off the fish that 
 remain at the bottom. The soil is not cultivated by them, and 
 lovers, as they are, of vegetable food, they raid upon the neighbour- 
 ing tribes, and carry off corn, bananas, sweet potatoes, manioc, and 
 beans. The warriors take up advanced positions, and occasionally 
 fight the owners of the fields, while the women pick up anything 
 eatable, and making bundles, tie them with grass or large leaves, 
 and slink away quickly to their homes. 
 
 The Akka are very much appreciated as warriors, on account of 
 their dexterity as archers, their nimbleness, and instinctive bravery. 
 
 FIGHT BETWEEN THE AKKA AND THE SAXDEU. 
 
 The chiefs of the tribes rival each other in securing them as subsi- 
 diaries, rewarding them for their services by presents of arrows or 
 food. 
 
 King Kanna assured me that during the war waged against his 
 neighbour Azanga, his own Sandeh, who were so brave against the 
 Mambettu and Mege people, fell back terrified at the approach of 
 the little warriors. " Their arrows,"' said he, " fly and wound be- 
 fore you can see those who shoot them." In ambush they usually 
 cover themselves with two large tehi leaves from the head down- 
 ward, one in front and the other behind. Many of these pigmies 
 are met with in the Mambettu country, amongst the Sandeh, at 
 Azanga's Court, and that of Kiun, chief of the Mege-]\Iaigo. 
 
 The bow in their right hand, the quiver hanging from their left 
 elbow, with head upright, and proud look, they step quickly, and
 
 1 1 o TEN YEARS IN E QUA TORI A . 
 
 lay down the result of the Inint. Then they pay a visit of homage 
 to the chief, saluting the minor authorities with a dignified air, and 
 strictly limit the time of their stay to that necessary for the busi- 
 ness to be done. Upon being invited they perform warlike panto- 
 mimes and light and rapid ballets, intermixed with first-rate 
 archery, expressing their thanks for any small gifts by salutations 
 and light capers. They are small men, with well-proportioned 
 limbs, and although they have neither handsome faces nor regular 
 features, yet there is nothing ridiculous in their appearance.* 
 
 They are reluctant to perform constant and sedentary toil. They 
 prefer a light occupation, not requiring much work — such as hunt- 
 ing birds, tracking small animals, catching butterflies, and gathering 
 wild fruit. They do not become affectionate with their companions, 
 are veiy clever at dissimulation, and voracious eaters. It is astonish- 
 ing how their small stomachs can contain such a comparatively 
 enormous quantity of food. 
 
 The Mambettu people are fond of a pleasant chat, and often mix 
 stories and anecdotes with their conversation. The orator is gene- 
 rally an elder of the tribe, who, with befitting tone and proper 
 gesture, attracts all the attention of his charmed hearers. I will 
 quote two of these stories as specimens. 
 
 TJie Jackal and the Leopard. 
 
 The leopard had caught and devoured a gazelle. The jackal saw 
 this. " You are fond of animals, it is true," said he, " but you will 
 
 * But I have heard the following account from certain Cyreueans, who say that 
 they went to the oracle of Ammon, and had a conversation with Etearchus, king 
 of the Ammouians ; and that, among other subjects, they happened to discourse 
 about the Nile — that nobody knew its sources ; whereupon Etearchus said that 
 certain Nasamonians once came to him ; this nation is Libyan and inhabits the 
 Syrtis, and the country for no great distance eastward of the Syrtis ; and that 
 when these Nasamonians arrived, and were asked if they could give any further 
 information touching the deserts of Libya, they answered that there were some 
 daring youths amongst them, sons of powerful men, and that they, having reached 
 inan's estate, formed some extravagant plans, and, accordingly, chose five of 
 their number by lot to explore the deserts of Libya, to see if they could make 
 any further discovery than those who had penetrated the farthest, &c. 
 
 They further related, that when the young men deputed by their companions 
 set out, well furnished with water and provisions, they passed first through the 
 inhabited country, and having traversed this, they came to the regions infested 
 by wild beasts ; and after this they crossed the desert, making their way towards 
 the west ; and when they had traversed much sandy ground, during a journey of 
 many days, they at length saw some trees growing in a plain : and that they 
 approached and began to gather the fruit that grew on the trees : and while they 
 M'ere gathering, some diminutive men, less than men of middle stature, came up, 
 and having seized them, carried them away, and that the Nasamonians did not 
 jit all understand their language, nor those who carried them off the language of 
 the Nasamonians. However, they conducted them through vast morasses, and 
 when they had passed these they came to a city, in which all the inhabitants 
 were of the same size as their conductors, and black in colour, and by the city 
 flowed a great river, running from the west to the east, and that crocodiles were 
 seen in it. Heroootus, oh. xxxii. book 2.
 
 JUSTICE IN MAMBE TTU. 1 1 1 
 
 never succeed in surpassing my voracity." The leopard smiled. 
 '' Let us try," said he. The jackal went into a large field of whitish 
 gourds, stripped their leaves off, and after having painted his head 
 red, crouched down in the midst of them. The leopard came up 
 and tried to approach him, but seeing the gourds, and believing 
 they were the skulls of devoured animals, he was frightened and 
 retraced his steps, " Why do you not come up to me?" exclaimed 
 the jackal. " I am afraid," said the leopard, hurrying away. " I 
 am sure you are more bloodthirsty and ferocious than I." 
 
 The Chameleon and the ElepJiant. 
 
 A chameleon once challenged an elephant to a race. The latter 
 accepted, and it was arranged for the next morning. During the 
 night the chameleon placed some of its brothers at short distances 
 along the road upon which the race was to take place. Next day, 
 at dawn, the elephant came up and commenced running, the 
 chameleon quickly mounting upon his tail. At every meeting with 
 a chameleon the elephant asked, " Are you not tired yet ? " " No," 
 answered the animal, which had been placed on the allotted track. 
 At last the elephant stopped, tired and breathless, and declared 
 himself conquered. 
 
 Justice is administered by the king. He pronounces sentences 
 and judgments at a public meeting. There is no appeal from them, 
 and the execution is immediate. A murderer is hanged to the 
 branch of a tree. A robber has his ears cut off; retaliation on the 
 principle of blood for blood, as practised in other tribes, is not 
 admitted here. An adulterer is compelled to pay an indemnity to 
 the offended husband. If the guilty woman belongs to the royal 
 household, both the adulterer and the adulteress are put to death ; 
 the innocence or guilt of the accused is ascertained by the mapingo. 
 
 Amongst the Sandeh of Makraka and in Unyoro a thief is 
 punished by the amputation of one of his hands. In Uganda, 
 those who are convicted of having attempted to seduce any of the 
 royal women have their eyes taken out of their sockets. 
 
 But in some cases the king modifies the penalty of adultery. 
 Thus, the guilty woman and her father are arrested, and if the 
 latter will give another daughter as a substitute for the former, the 
 life of both is saved ; but if not, both are put to the edge of the 
 sword. In the Mambettu country superstition is prevalent in every 
 action of life ; however unimportant, the most natural event is 
 supposed to be caused by some person's ill-will. Illnesses, death, 
 a destructive storm, the death of an animal, the burning of a but, 
 are all supposed to be the result of an evil eye. The unto (sorcerer) 
 is submitted to various judicial ordeals, according to the gravity of 
 the charge ; sometimes the mapingo is resorted to, more often the
 
 1 1 1- TEN YEARS IN E QUA TORI A. 
 
 lie cao and the no uele (the cat and poison). A wild cat being 
 cooked, a small piece of the flesh is placed under the tongue of the 
 accused, then they compel the individual to fill his mouth with 
 water, rinse it and then spit it out ; if he retains the piece of flesh, 
 he is declared innocent ; if not he is guilty. Should the charge be 
 proved, the sorcerer (nuto) is killed and a piece of his intestine is 
 hung on the outside of his hut. The other proof consists in a 
 mixture of poisonous herbs to be swallowed by the accused. If he 
 is innocent he will vomit it; if he dies from it, his agony is 
 welcomed with cries of approbation and joy. 
 
 The wish to be possessed of another man's property or wife, or 
 the necessity of removing a political rival, are motives that induce 
 the king sometimes to act without the usual judicial forms. 
 
 In such cases, private executioners, who are always provided with 
 well-sharpened knives, are entrusted with the work of killing the 
 selected victims. 
 
 When I was at Yangara, an unfortunate man, suspected of being 
 in love with one of the royal women, had his ears and body muti- 
 lated, and the ghastly trophies hung on the suspected woman's 
 door. 
 
 But similar horrors have been perpetrated in Europe, not only 
 by men, but by women. 
 
 They paint their body red, after having anointed it with oil. To 
 send nuiKjo means to ask for an alliance. 
 
 At that time (October 1881) Mambanga had secretly sent a 
 messenger to place an elegant knife at Yangara's feet. The 
 acceptance of the proffered alliance was to be indicated by raising 
 the weapon from the ground, and placing it in the royal mansion ; 
 but the king remaining motionless warned the messenger that he 
 was to take the knife back, which he did, and the alliance was thus 
 declined. 
 
 To strike with the nungo means a sentence of death. The 
 individual appointed as the executioner is brought before the king, 
 who hands him a knife, and a lance with a curved point, at the 
 same time mentioning the victim's name. 
 
 Should the executioner not fulfil his duty at the appointed time, 
 he would shai'e the same fate as the victim. 
 
 One of the articles forbidden as food in the Mambettu country 
 is that of fowls, as they are required for divination ; but Yangara 
 is an exception, because, although he tries to read the future by 
 these birds, he also has them upon his table. Smoked fish, 
 buffalo flesh, antelopes, gazelles, and chimpanzees, are the daily 
 food of his people ; and manioc, sweet potatoes, or bananas, are 
 the substitutes for bread. Beer and sugar-canes are indispensable. 
 Termites, or white ants, are not food worthy of the royal table 
 except a variety called gnognu by the Mambettu and cH by the 
 Sandeh ; and woe be to him who, possessing such insects, did not
 
 INSECT LIFE. 113 
 
 immediately bring them to the king! He would expiate the 
 outrage by the loss of his life. 
 
 The blacks turn butterflies and insects to profitable account. I 
 once met a Mege swallowing a number of the latter, in order to 
 cure a cold on the chest. The tennes inordcLc swarm the basin of 
 the Makua, and the damage caused to plants and dwellings is 
 immense. 
 
 The destruction of these insects can only be effected by killing 
 the queen of a nest. But as the insects, when winged, are a con- 
 siderable article of food, no attempts are made at their destruction. 
 They are only searched for within the borders of inhabited localities, 
 and not always there. 
 
 The termites are called macacaliji by the Mambettu and amhali 
 by the Sandeh, and when they are in the perfect state, cuizi and 
 agi. There are five varieties of the species, which the natives dis- 
 tinguish after the season, and the time when, being 
 winged, they abandon their nest. The most appreciated 
 for abundance of fat and flavour are : — 
 
 JVe sohhu* or iamhali, large insects, which appear 
 about 7 P.M., scattered, proceed in swarms about 2 A.M. 
 
 iVe kinda, or avaia, which appear at sunset. 
 
 Chiognii, or cli, which belong to the king, because of their great 
 rarity. These are not seen fluttering before dusk. 
 
 Njaba, or cmjdba, of a small size, which appear during rain. 
 
 Ne pojM, or a popo, larger than the above, that also appear when 
 it rains. 
 
 The two first varieties are caught by means of fires and prepared 
 holes. As soon as their extremely delicate wings feel the heat, 
 they are unable to fly, and drop down on the ground, still alive, 
 but helpless. With regard to the capture of the oij'aha, a layer of 
 leaves is placed on the sides of the hill, in which the insect hides. 
 It is said to come out on hearing the clashing together of two 
 pieces of wood. The last sort is compelled to come out by several 
 persons stamping the ground. 
 
 The search is accompanied by a song, modulated into a passionate 
 and rhythmical tune, Anycku me Jcotic, anyekit me kotii (" Come out 
 in numbers like rain-drops "). 
 
 WINGED TEKMITE. 
 
 * The first name is given by the Mambettu, the second by the Sandeh.
 
 ( 1^4 ) 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 IN KING AZANGA'S COUNTRY. 
 
 Ou the banks of the Bomokandi — Azaiuja ne coropo — Wild boars — Tomb of a 
 warrior — Violation of tombs — The kings' tombs — Funeral rites — Curious tomb 
 of Mbruo— Olopo, Azanga's residence — Six human skulls — Azanga, Munza's 
 brother — Court ceremonial — Sneezing — Grey parrots — Cheap pipes — The king 
 smokes — The evil-eye — " By Azanga's life, he is dead ! "—Sentences upon 
 criminals — Sentences against animals — " Is there a sun at Khartoum ? " — Royal 
 table — Several kinds of bananas — The Bklongo — Beer made with banana juice 
 — The king's lance — Struck by lightning — The chimpanzee — Its abode — It 
 does not forget offences — It is cunning and thievish — The Maholo — Pantomime 
 — The king's favourite — Azanga's mistrust and suspicion — Vexations— Flight 
 — A gunshot — Never ! — Prayers and threats — Absolute refusal — Azanga 
 becomes reasonable — At Tangasi. 
 
 " Rest liere — Azanga nc conzo (by tlie feet of Azanga). We must 
 wait here for the boat to ferry us over the river," said the guide 
 sent by the king of the Mege to conduct me to him. 
 
 October 15, 1881. — We had reached the banks of the Bomo- 
 kandi. 
 
 The river, majestic from the volume of its waters and the solemn 
 slowness of its current, was darkly overshadowed by the trees of the 
 silent forest, whose boughs bending gracefully over it protect it from 
 the burning rays of the sun. The land upon the left bank clearly 
 outlined the continuous descent of the hills, clothed in a uniform 
 mantle of dark woods, which extended to the horizon. The water, 
 reddened by the recent rains, which had not long ceased, was fresh 
 and good ; the surrounding country, by the richness of its flowers, 
 showed that autumn was near. Everything is painted in splendid 
 hues in this magic land, which awaits only the guiding hand of 
 energy and skill. 
 
 " And would it not be possible^"! asked, breaking a long silence, 
 " to pass the day here ? " 
 
 " If you wish it. We could seek shelter at night at the house 
 of the guardian of the river, Azanga ne coropo (by the neck of 
 Azanga) a few steps up the hill." 
 
 The rivalry of race between this people and the Niapu, who 
 inhabit the right shore of the river, is always ready to break forth 
 into open war, in spite of the cordial friendship that unites the 
 two princes, Azanga and Yangara, and requires a vigorous watch 
 ou the confines of the State. 
 
 The Niapu, though not numerous, are powerful and insolent,
 
 A HERO'S SEPULCHRE. 115 
 
 and owing to the protection bestowed upon them by the Donagla, 
 are always ready for raids. 
 
 We entered the forest by difficult and grassy paths, made 
 intricate by liannes. 
 
 " Why is not this road made passable ? It would give very 
 little trouble," I said. 
 
 " Nc nguma Azangandc (by Azanga's shield), our enemies might 
 then easily surprise us." 
 
 Frightened by the sound of our voices and the unusual noise, 
 an animal tied past us. It was a peso (a red boar). 
 
 " Is there not a species of black boar in the country ? " I asked. 
 
 " We have three different species of wild ., boar in our woods. 
 The nego is red, has a small body and is not ferocious, but its 
 flesh has but little flavour ; the peso, one of the kind we have just 
 now seen, has dark hair, is larger than the nego, and more ferocious ; 
 it is not afraid of measuring its strength with the leopard. We 
 have also in smaller numbers the moJcolii, which is larger than the 
 two first-named animals, with a skin resembling that of the buffalo 
 sparsely covered with bristles." 
 
 Issuing from the wild and tangled forest, we found ourselves at 
 last in a wide plain, covered with high, prickly grass, just turning 
 yellow ; on a little rising ground at a few hundred yards from the 
 path, we perceived a hut. 
 
 " Who lives in that dwelling ? " I asked. 
 
 " It is not a dwelling, it is a mhoco built over the tomb of a 
 warrior killed in the last war." 
 
 " With whom did Azanga last go to war ? " I inquired. 
 
 " With the son of Ntikima. We put him to flight, ne nguma 
 Azangande." 
 
 " Why is this tomb so far away from the inhabited country ? " 
 
 " It is our custom to bury heroes on the spot where they fell, 
 and we honour them with the mhoco. From time to time relations 
 and friends of the deceased go to clean the tomb and fill those 
 baskets that you see hanging there with food, and jugs of water. 
 The dead man sees with pleasure the attentions of his beloved 
 friends." 
 
 " Is such honour paid to all who die on the field of battle ? " I 
 asked. 
 
 " Oh, no, only to people of distinction ; the others are buried 
 without any display," and here he hesitated. 
 
 It was evident he would not tell me that the great majority of 
 the fallen serve to feed the survivors. 
 
 " And is there no other record placed on the tomb of your dead 
 heroes ? " 
 
 "Yes, just above where the head of the buried man is supposed 
 to rest, we generally place an iron ring or pickaxe." 
 
 " For what reason ? " I inquired.
 
 1 1 6 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 " It is a family memento, that must remain with him from the 
 moment that he leaves his people." 
 
 " And if the king died, where would he be buried ? " 
 
 " Close by a stream, and a house with an enclosure is erected on 
 the spot." 
 
 It is the traditional custom of the Mambettu to honour the 
 tomb of their dead king by sacrificing on it human victims selected 
 from the chiefs of the kingdom ; persons of less importance are 
 honoured, after their death, by the sacrifice of animals. Cries, tears, 
 and shrieks are indispensable at the funeral ceremony, and, for a 
 longtime, the /iccco roars with a mournful voice, which is deafening. 
 
 For several days, the mourners manifest their grief, in a circle 
 round the grave, by gestures, moving their hands and feet regu- 
 larly, and chanting a monotonous tune, accompanied, or rather 
 interrupted from time to time, by the sad sound of a drum ; the 
 imbibing of copious draughts of beer frequently interrupts the 
 ceremony. Tombs are not very elegant here, nor are they objects 
 of much care, on account of the frequent violation of them by 
 amateurs of anthropophagy. 
 
 The curious burial that Mbruo, chief of the Abarambo (the 
 unfortunate dispenser of rain and fine weather), reserved to him- 
 self, now recurs to my mind. He selected for his tomb an old 
 tree at a little distance from his residence, being possessed by the 
 idea that it Avas indecorous for a prince to be placed in contact 
 with the earth, or worse still to lie under it ; and he gave orders 
 that, when he was dead, the upper part of the tree was to be 
 hollowed out lengthwise, and his body placed inside it in an up- 
 right position, with his head towards the sky ; his dutiful son, 
 when his father passed to eternity, in 1883, scrupulously executed 
 his last injunctions. 
 
 After passing through groves of banana trees, bordering the 
 fields of maize and manioc, along groups of huts, saluted by the 
 barking of dogs and the timid looks of the natives, we reached, on 
 the morning of the fourth day after our departure from Tangasi, 
 the banks of a small river, the Tago, from whence we could see the 
 vast residence of King Azanga. 
 
 Hung at the gate of Olopo were six human skulls, still covered 
 with pieces of flesh and tufts of hair. 
 
 " Whose were those heads? " I asked. 
 
 " They are those of our enemies, the Sandeh, whom Kanna led 
 against us a short time ago." 
 
 " Were they killed in war ? " I inquired. 
 
 " By Azanga's shield, no ; they were prisoners, who, upon our 
 return, were immolated, to celebrate our victory." 
 
 " And were anv of your tribe prisoners of the enemy ? " I asked. 
 
 " Oh yes." 
 
 " Why did you not exchange them for your friends then ? "
 
 KING AZANGA. 117 
 
 " We do not make au exchange of prisoners, except in the case of 
 persons of rank ; an exchange of common soldiers is never made." 
 
 I was invited to take a seat in the hut, whicli is used for solemn 
 receptions. 
 
 Azanga kept me waiting a long while ; he sent word after a 
 time that he was di-essing, in order to receive me properly. I 
 hoped that the superstitious practices in which I felt sure he was 
 occupied would have a favourable result for me. 
 
 The great bugle resounded. General silence. A tall, robust, 
 and good-looking man, followed by a crowd of warriors and women, 
 advanced towards me, bending his knees, and moving his hips in a 
 peculiar manner. 
 
 " Hcc ! Hce ! Azanga momhc " (the King is beautiful) was 
 shouted by all present. Drums and trumpets sounded ; he 
 approached me, shook hands, and both of us sat down. He was 
 delighted at my visit, said he would take care of me, and after a 
 few more words withdrew, saluted by the respectful crowd. 
 
 At the Court of Azanga, the traditions of the family of the Eru 
 are strictly observed. When the King goes out, or returns home, 
 he is saluted by the blast of trumpets and by all the bystanders, 
 who say, "Azanga 7nongoric" (Good morning, Azanga), At night- 
 fall, the trumpet announces, with a prolonged blast, that the King 
 has retired to his chamber, and "• Ne kinia nomhro obatu" (The 
 King goes to his great house) is repeated from house to house and 
 village to village. 
 
 When the King sneezes or coughs, the prescribed formula is, 
 '-^ Nc kinia cJiica" (Health to the King). Such is the etiquette, 
 that he who dared to sneeze, cough, or expectorate in the King's 
 presence would be guilty of Ihe mqfcste, and death would be the 
 penalty of the crime. 
 
 In case of any such need, one has to Avithdraw from the royal 
 presence. The dread and respect for the monarch's person is 
 faithfully manifested by the general habit of his subjects, who, 
 in every discourse, continually appeal to the sacred name of 
 Azanga. 
 
 The royal seat of Olopo is a vast zereba, divided into several 
 compartments. Besides the King's apartments, there are dwellings 
 for his mother, his wives and his children. Special buildings are 
 occupied by His ]\Iajesty's armed guards. In these dwellings the 
 prescribed ornament is the grey parrot, and great numbers of these 
 birds crowd the courtyards, like pigeons, and perch on the small 
 trees. When taken from their nests, they are carefully reared, 
 and taught to pronounce some words, but, unfortunately, rather 
 vulgar ones. They are considered the most elegant and highly 
 valued of gifts. 
 
 Chimpanzees are the most valued amongst the large number of 
 monkeys, squirrels, and fowls.
 
 1 1 8 TEN YEARS IN EQUA TORI A. 
 
 Small plantations of tobacco and gardenias enliven and freshen 
 the little gardens surrounding the buildings. 
 
 'The luxury and pleasure of smoking is widely spread amongst 
 the black population, and we may even say that women indulge in 
 the habit more than men. Various are the shapes of pipes, and 
 the materials of which they are made ; iron pipes and wooden ones, 
 large, small, rough, and polished, &c. The most elegant of them 
 are to be found in Unyoro ; and in Uganda Mainbettu people call 
 tobacco toho^ whilst mafjuofiuo is the name by which they distinguish 
 the instrument used for smoking. It is made with the central fibres 
 of a banana leaf, at one end of which is introduced a piece of leaf 
 folded into the shape of the bowl. 
 
 When smoking they generally sit in a circle, draw at the pipe 
 only twice, and then pass it on to the person sitting next. It is 
 with grf at pomp that the king commences smoking. The long 
 pipe, which is always used new, is carefully prepared and lighted 
 by a special officer. Bowing low, this functionary advances towards 
 his Sovereign, and, bending his right knee to the ground, presents 
 the pipe to the king. 
 
 Trumpets are sounded, and drums beaten. The bystanders fill 
 the air with Azanga amotnbc ! Azanga amomhe ! while a cloud t)f 
 smoke issues from the royal mouth, and surrounds the august 
 visage with an aureole. When the king wishes to give a mark of 
 his favour to some person of importance, he presents the just 
 lighted pipe to him, and the recipient, proud of the honour, gravely 
 draws it. Gall nuts are always chewed after smoking. This fine 
 red fruit has a pleasant, bitterish taste, and promotes salivation. 
 Natives attribute special medical qualities to it. 
 
 One day, whilst I was quietly writing notes in my hut, my atten- 
 tion was attracted by the shouts of a raving crowd, which broke 
 the usual quietude of the village. A man, whose hands were 
 tightly bound with cords, was being pushed and violently knocked 
 about. The unfortunate fellow, with an agonised face, trembling 
 in every limb, had almost given himself up to despair. 
 
 " Who is that man ? " I asked of one of the crowd, " and what 
 crime has he committed ? " 
 
 " He is a sorcerer, and they want him to free his victim from the 
 spell which he has cast on him," was the reply. 
 
 "What is this spell?" 
 
 " From pure malice, he has caused one of our friends to become 
 very ill, and we are all grieved about it. The poor fellow is at 
 death's door, and unless this villain takes the spell off him quickly, 
 he will surely die." 
 
 " How can he take it off ? " I inquired. 
 
 " Listen to me and I will explain the thing to you. They are 
 now taking him to the sick man's dwelling, and he will be put 
 imder guard in a neighbouring hut, and delicacies, beer, tobacco,
 
 JUSTICE UNDER AZANGA. 
 
 119 
 
 and everything lie can wish for will be supplied to him. The fear 
 of the consequences which may arise, and the comforts he enjoys, 
 will persuade him to cease his infamous revenge. Generally a 
 sorcerer is induced to do so ; and when the sick man recovers he is 
 richly rewarded and escorted to his house with singing and music." 
 
 " What if the sick man should die ? " I asked. 
 
 " By Azanga's life, he would be brought before the king's tri- 
 bunal, who, after hav- 
 ing consulted the ora- 
 cles, would pronounce 
 sentence of death upon 
 him." 
 
 Justice is severe and 
 rigorous here ; some- 
 times foolish and cruel. 
 A woman, weary of 
 long-continued service, 
 left her master's house, 
 and went to stay with 
 some friends. Brought 
 to justice, she was for 
 this crime sentenced to 
 death and deprived of 
 burial. The great 
 
 officials of the Court 
 that day enjoyed a 
 splendid banquet, and I 
 was horror-struck by 
 the sight of a roasted 
 leg of the woman. 
 
 The love that the 
 Niapu people have for dogs induced a poor man to steal a beautiful 
 one. He was arrested and brought to justice, and, after many 
 consultations with the 'tncqnngo, was sentenced, either to become 
 the plaintiff's slave, or to atone for the offence, by giving him an 
 indemnity of two dogs. As he had no means of buying the two 
 animals, on account of the high price charged for them, he was 
 obliged to give up his freedom. 
 
 Animals are also subject to punishment. A goat was chased 
 and persecuted by a dog, and in the fight for self-defence the latter 
 received a thrust from the goat's horn. The poor dog, which was 
 the valuable property of a powerful man, died shortly after. This 
 serious matter was much discussed and commented upon, and finally 
 referred to the king for judgment. 
 
 The poor goat was sentenced to be slaughtered before its ^^ctim's 
 corpse, its flesh was served to the Mambettu, and that of the dog 
 to the Mege.
 
 lao TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 Ono day tlie king said to me : " Does the sun shine at Khar- 
 toum ? " 
 
 " Certainly it does," I replied. 
 
 " That cannot be ; it must be another sun," said he. 
 
 " Why should it lae so ? " I inquired. 
 
 " Because this is the sun of my ahul ^ete. You inhabit 
 another world." 
 
 " As you will ; but the sun is so large and is so situated that it 
 can shine both over your country and mine." 
 
 " I cannot believe you. My kingdom is very large, and its 
 confines are far apart, and beyond my realm there are others 
 as extensive, so that I cannot believe that I am mistaken in my 
 opinion." 
 
 *' Be it as you will," I said ; " but I advise you not to inter- 
 fere with the prerogatives of the sun, as it might take ofience and 
 punish you." 
 
 He became silent, and looked at me with eyes wide open. I 
 burst out laughing, and he followed my example, but his mirth 
 was rather forced, and the conversation was turned to other 
 subjects. 
 
 The royal table is supplied by the flesh of the gazelle, antelope, 
 and monkey, but the Court women are obliged to eat that of large 
 animals, such as elephants and buffaloes. The flesh of the chim- 
 panzee has no rival for its delicacy of flavour. Azanga told me 
 one day when I inquired about its taste, " It is as good as human 
 flesh." Some time afterwards, Nganzi, in the Sandeh country, 
 told me that monkey flesh " tasted very much like human." One 
 day when I was with the king he offered me a dozen mice that had 
 just been killed, but I declined the kind offer with thanks, and 
 my refusal met with an ironical shake of the king's head, indicat- 
 ing his pity for my bad taste. He distributed the rejected mice 
 amongst the eager women who were standing around him. When 
 the king has his meals he is hidden from view, a custom common 
 to many African tribes, and the food left from his table is thrown 
 into a pit dug for the purpose. 
 
 The greater part of the population are fed on the products of the 
 soil. Immense fields of manioc and sweet potatoes, and extensive 
 groves of banana trees are to be met with at every step close to 
 the villages. In war time, all hands being engaged in fighting, 
 the cultivation of Indian millet, tclahun, and maize is abandoned, 
 and the little leisure they have to give is bestowed on the culture 
 of banana trees, which do not require much attention, and, being 
 so abundant, easily supply any want of food. I have counted six 
 varieties of banana * trees, differing in the size, colour, and flavour 
 of their fruit. JVc hira is a fruit, the peel of which is green when 
 
 * Banana trees are called mejomho by the Mambettu, and ho by the Sandeh, and 
 the fruit biujo and hd respectively.
 
 ACCIDENTS FROM LIGHTNING. 121 
 
 ripe, and it cannot be kept ; mhipi, called hiqul by the Sandeh, is 
 a large, long, and yellowish fruit, and each cluster contains not 
 more than from ten to thirteen fruits ; r/ondo is yellow when ripe, 
 and its branches are long and rich ; anchobu[/o does not ripen per- 
 fectly ; manfu has small fruit of a delicious flavour. The cu7iiba- 
 cumba, the fruits of which have a sweet flavour, are larger at the 
 top of the bunch, and smaller towards the point. The maishic 
 grows on a tree with wine-coloured leaves, like the peel of the 
 fruit. The ghinda has large fruit, short and thick, of a bright 
 yellow colour. 
 
 A kind of beer made from fermented banana juice is drunk. 
 The natives consider bananas rather a vegetable than a fruit. 
 
 Ripe fruit is left for women and children, as it is thought dis- 
 graceful for a man to eat it when it is mature. 
 
 Bananas, when ripe, are subjected to the following process, in 
 order to make them into Ijidongo or dried bananas. 
 
 After having peeled the bananas, they are exposed to the rays of 
 the sun during the day, and at night to the heat of a fire till they 
 are cooked. They then acquire the colour of ground coffee, and 
 are soft, sweet, and dehghtfully flavoured. 
 
 Among these people bananas, prepared as we have just described, 
 and dipped in red palm oil, are highly appreciated, and considered 
 a great delicacy. 
 
 For the despatch of State afiairs, the king avails himself of 
 special messengers to the subordinate chiefs, or more often of con- 
 fidants, when the business requires secrecy and discretion. The 
 envoy is then provided wdth a lance, which he fixes into the ground 
 before the person to whom the message is to be delivered. The 
 presentation of this emblem is greeted with cheers, and the 
 messenger is the recij^ient of great attentions, and is blindly 
 obeyed. 
 
 1881, — On November 10, at ten o'clock at night, a certain Yan- 
 gari, one of the king's confidants, was struck by lightning in his 
 own hut. In a few days he recovered the use of his right arm, 
 which had been paralysed by the shock. I had the opportunity of 
 observing several cases of the kind, and I venture to mention a 
 few which now recur to my mmd. 
 
 On the 17th of March 1883, at Wandy Makraka, at 10 a.m., the 
 flagstaff was shivered by lightning, and a soldier was struck to the 
 ground, in consequence of which he felt a pain in his head for about 
 three days. On June 5, 1885, at 3 P.M , at Muggi, a thunderbolt 
 set fire to a hut and knocked three women to a distance of twenty 
 paces, without doing them the least harm. 
 
 In King Kabba-Rega's palace at Juaya, one of his favourite 
 women was killed by lightning on the afternoon of July 20, 1886. 
 In the same year. Sept, 17, at 5 p.m., a man belonging to the suite 
 of Mabuzi (the envoy from Uganda to treat of the conditions of peace
 
 THE CHIMPAXZICi:.
 
 THE CHIMPANZEE. 125 
 
 with King Kabba-Rega) succumbed to the effects of a shock after 
 two clays of dreadful suffering. 
 
 The chimpanzee {AntlLTopithccns troglodytes) is called nozo by the 
 Mambettu people, and is known amongst the Sandeh under the 
 name of manzuruma. 
 
 A legend of the Mambettu says that this animal was once a man. 
 Being tired of continual work, he thought it would be better to 
 forsake human society and retire into the forests with his own 
 family, where they might live on fruits only. Little by little his 
 intelligence departed from him, and he built himself a house at the 
 top of the tall trees. When it rains, the legend says, he gets on 
 the roof of his hut, not under it, as he firmly believes that it rains 
 upwards from the earth to the sky. The noise made by rain 
 falling on the ground induces him to suppose that this is the 
 case. 
 
 He resigns himself to live with men, and imitates their actions. 
 He can cook meat and gi-ound nuts (ccrachis), and peels sugar- 
 cane. 
 
 From its early days the chimpanzee is very strong and robust, 
 and I have been told that in defence of its young it even 
 dares to confront the leopard ; and that when assailed by men 
 (I am still relating hearsay) it catches the spears hurled upon 
 it, and with a steady hand throws them back at the assailants. 
 Driven away by the persecution of men, these monkeys often 
 immigrate. 
 
 At the Bomokandi, near the village of Bauli, a colony of these 
 animals once made their appearance, and great was the alarm 
 amongst the inhabitants at the efforts the chimpanzees made to 
 catch the women who went to fetch water. Even when brought 
 up in captivity, it savagely remembers offences. 
 
 I was told by Bangue, a Sandeh chief, that an old chimpanzee, 
 in order to avenge itself for the many vexations inflicted upon it by 
 a negro, could think of no better plan than carrying off his little 
 boy, whom he dragged to the top of a tree ; but ashamed of its evil 
 deed, it hid in the thick of the forest, and never came out of it 
 again. 
 
 At Makraka, I saw a chimpanzee which, having succeeded in 
 getting close to a man who had been in the habit of throwing 
 stones and hurting it, caught hold of one of his legs, and quickly 
 dashing him to the ground, jumped on him, and bit him in several 
 parts of his face. Such was the rage of the irritated animal that 
 the people who hastened to the man's aid were scarcely able to 
 rescue him from the ferocious creature's power. Cunning and 
 thievish, it always seizes the right moment for accomplishing its 
 misdeeds. 
 
 At the station on the Gadda, one of these animals, profiting by 
 the opportunity afforded by the momentary absence of a soldiers'
 
 124 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 wife, ran away with a bowl, in which she was cooking some fish. 
 That night it returned with the empty bowl, and placed it in the 
 doorway of the dwelling. 
 
 The way in which the jMambettu greet one another is cordial. 
 
 " N'gansrije " (I salute thee), says one ; and the other answers 
 with a long-continued sound of ee . . ec . . ee ; whilst they repeatedly 
 shake hands, touching only the fingers, and making them crack 
 each time. 
 
 On entering a house they give the above salutation, but they 
 take leave of their host by saying simply, " mado maqua " (I am 
 goicg). 
 
 At last the day arrived on which the king, faithful to his promise, 
 was to make his appearance at the mabolo (gi'eat dance). 
 
 In the large hall, lighted by torches made with resin, the royal 
 family, the high dignitaries of the Court, the warriors, and a great 
 number of women were assembled. On one side of the room were 
 drummers, horns, &c. All seemed eagerly expecting the great 
 event. The females were smoking their long pipes, which they 
 passed on to one another ; the men were conversing in small groups, 
 awaiting the unusual spectacle. The bugle announced the arrival 
 of the royal dancer, and unanimous shouts, loud and long, filled the 
 air — " Azanga ainomhc ! Azcmga amomhe ! " (How beautiful the king 
 is !) The king's attire was indeed most elegant. A leopard skin, 
 tails of feline animals, rings and necklaces, shining bangles, and a 
 most becoming headgear of monkey's fur, a nebi skin hanging at 
 his belt, were conspicuous parts of his dress. He began to dance, 
 and the musicians commenced playing ; somersaults, gambols, 
 raising the leg in the air, and pirouettes, followed all so quickly 
 and with such increasing speed that it made one giddy. The 
 spectators, in transports of delight, with their cheers and applauses 
 overpowered the hoarse roar of the orchestra ; then the king 
 rested. 
 
 After a short interval the royal dancer started again with great 
 impetuosity. He pretended to pursue a charming girl ; he hid 
 himself, then ran and leaped ; the whole concluding with a giddy 
 whirl ; fresh cheers and loud applause saluting the end of the 
 pantomime. 
 
 The king having withdrawn to his private rooms, the men 
 scattered themselves, while the women stared jealously at the 
 favourite lady of the hour — the one on whom during the evening 
 the king bestowed his attentions, asking her at intervals to danca 
 with him, and making contortions before her. 
 
 Azanga's kindness and courtesy to me came to a prematura 
 end. His behaviour underwent a great change from the time ha 
 heard of the arrival of fresh soldiers at the station amongst the 
 Abarambo as a reinforcement to fight Mambanga's people ; this 
 made the king mistrustful and suspicious. He refused to give
 
 AZANGAS SUSPICION. 125 
 
 the promised guides who were to take me for a trip into the in- 
 terior of his kingdom, and he also would not grant me permission 
 to return. 
 
 Having been met with an absolute refusal to give up my 
 arms to him, when he requested me to do so, he changed his 
 tactics, and in a few days robbed me of everything I had brought 
 with me, with the most insolent sawj froid and the greatest im- 
 pertinence. 
 
 When I was thus absolutely helpless, the natives took part in 
 the vexations inflicted by their monarch, and tried, with arms in 
 their hands, to break into my house in the silence of the night. In 
 broad daylight, even, I was attacked on the road by a young fellow 
 whom, with the assistance of one of my servants, I succeeded in 
 disarming of the knife he was brandishing. At last they had the 
 audacity to carry off a little boy from my house, whom I recovered 
 by force, after a struggle with four Mege rascals who were the 
 perpetrators of the outrage. 
 
 For several days I had neither heard from nor seen the king, but 
 one morning one of his " confidants " came to ask me to the mabola 
 which was to take place in the evening. Excusing myself, however, 
 on account of indisposition, I declined the invitation, but accepted 
 it for my people. 
 
 It was about midnight ; the sky was cloudy and dark ; I was all 
 alone, at a few yards from my hut, when a shower of stones fell 
 close to me. Sui*prised at such a novelty, I rose and walked in the 
 direction of the place from which the missiles had proceeded. I 
 had only moved a few paces, when a stone struck me right on my 
 breast. As quick as lightning, I rushed back, took a gun, and 
 fired it — aiming at the place where my assailants stood, protected 
 by the darkness. All was quiet again, and from that day the Mege 
 took a path at a distance from my hut when they were going to the 
 royal dwelling. The king never mentioned this incident, but upon 
 my again asking for permission to return, he answered with an 
 emphatic " Never.'" 
 
 1881. — On December 7, at about noon, having ascertained that 
 the king and his people after heavy drinking had fallen asleep, I 
 went through the long grass, bushes, and uninhabited land, accom- 
 panied by a faithful boy, to the house of the king's brother, 
 Kabrafa. 
 
 He had always treated me with great deference, and several times. 
 had been grieved at his brother's behaviour. 
 
 I told him my intention of not returning to Olopo, and he 
 promised to assist me, and advised me to keep up my spirits. 
 
 During the night messengers arrived from Azanga, and first by 
 prayers, and then by threats, tried to compel me to return. I 
 absolutely refused. 
 
 On the third day after my escape, early in the morning, Azanga.
 
 1 2 6 TEN YEARS IN E QUA TOR I A. 
 
 made his appearance at his brother's house, inquiring after me ; 
 he was accompanied by the great men of Mambettu. 
 
 He had come to wish me farewell, and had brought rich presents 
 — viz., lances, arrows, big ivory hair-pins, shields, parrots, and 
 goats. 
 
 The king had become reasonable. Mind had conquered instinct. 
 
 I left for Tangasi, where I arrived on December 20, 1881, ac- 
 companied throughout the journey by faithful guides.
 
 ( i-^7 ) 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 THROUGH THE ABARAMBO COUNTRY. 
 
 Central Africa, its natural features and inhabitants — Warrior and hunter — Sense 
 of beauty — Lovers of independence — Kindness — Cordial relationship — Bauli a 
 fugitive — A few woi-ds about Albinoism — Funeral music — Revenge in sight — 
 A murderer's hand — Indifference to fear — Polemi and its king — The Mambanga, 
 Zungli, and l\Iapulior mountains — Alabara and Nzaba — Abundance of animals 
 — A hurricane — A stormy night — The huts of the Abarambo — Small wooden 
 statues — Fight with a monkey — Voquo flesh is as good as human — A royal 
 musician — The Queniha — J/t shitinjo iole dcte — Headache — Ferrying over the 
 Bomokandi — The river Mambana — Bakangoi — Produce of his kingdom — Five 
 hundred women — -The king's wardrobe— Savage justice — Love for women — 
 — Amazons — The king's refusal to allow me. to go to Ababua — A chimpanzee. 
 
 Nature in its first freshness — men primitive in their habits ! 
 Ancient forests ; a mass of entangled vegetation ; copious and un- 
 checked waters ; a rugged soil to cultivate ; dangerous wild beasts ; 
 a uniform succession of natural phenomena ; and, lastly, man lost 
 amongst all this wealth, possessing only instincts, and in continual 
 strife with all around him, especially with his fellow-men. Such is 
 the black inhabitant of Central Africa. A hunter and a warrior, 
 thoughtless of the morrow, averse to cultivating the soil, with 
 limited desires and few wants, the story of his life contains only 
 strife and reciprocal destruction ; wars increase the causes of hatred 
 between the tribes, and that strife, which was at first only a 
 traditional feud, becomes ever more fierce and implacable. 
 
 Affection for their children during their infancy, and the respect 
 of adults for their fathers and aged people, are general. 
 
 Intellectual development is precocious and well marked, but it 
 soon degenerates, and the intelligence of the natives becomes very 
 limited. 
 
 They have a vivid imagination, and their vivacity is so extreme 
 that it approaches folly ; among their daily occupations are, singing 
 to a mandoline accompaniment, dancing, and getting intoxicated. 
 
 They honour even death with dancing. Novelty attracts them ; 
 their curiosity for the unknown is intense and eager. Admiration 
 for beauty is deeply felt by them and enthusiastically demonstrated. 
 
 A negro, having seen a bird fall, wounded by my gun, believed 
 that the weapon was a magazine of birds, and insisted upon look- 
 ing down the barrel to solve the enigma. 
 
 Astonished, and at first thoughtful, he afterwards burst into
 
 128 
 
 TEN YEARS IN EQVATORIA. 
 
 noisy laughter. The reflective power of a looking-glass astonishes 
 them, and causes them to meditate, perplexing them a great deal ; 
 
 the possession of a bottle is the cause of great pride. Naturally- 
 diffident and undecided, their arguments are mere cavilling ; they
 
 THE FUGITIVE BAULI 129 
 
 adopt an opinion more from inability to confute it than from con- 
 viction. They are fond of freedom and jealous of their independence, 
 and if obliged to choose a side between two parties, they study and 
 watch, and finally make friends with the stronger. 
 
 The Shooli were watching from a height a battle between Baker's 
 soldiers and some hordes of ivory merchants. " If the first named 
 are likely to conquer," said they, " we will join them and ensure 
 their victory, then we shall share with them the beautiful beads of 
 the Donagla. If, on the other hand, they appear likely to be 
 beaten, we will assist the merchants, as an alliance with them 
 would give us a good share of their booty." This is a faithful 
 representation of their sentiments. 
 
 Great was the hatred inspired by the EgyjDtian occupation. 
 Supreme power was in the hands of the invaders ; the authority of 
 the native chiefs depressed and derided ; internal quarrels were 
 subject to the capricious judgment of foreigners — all these facts 
 constituted a long-continued offence, that led to disastrous and 
 irreparable consequences. The difference of colour, also, that was 
 too often scorned, added to their innate jealousy, fired their revenge- 
 ful spirits, and they rushed into a war to avenge real offences and 
 combat imaginary evils. 
 
 Unaware of the dangers of such a fatal alliance, they joined the 
 Mahdi without pausing to consider the consequences of their act. 
 Strong, brave, impressionable, and jealous of their independence, 
 it is only by the intercourse of traffic, kindness, and courtesy that 
 we can open a way for their civilisation. The abuse of power would 
 only lead to a war of extermination. 
 
 April 18, 1882. — On the confines of the territory of Yangara, 
 bounded by the river Quali, between the marshes of Jima and 
 Neklima, in the valley of Bomokaudi, I met Bauli, the fugitive 
 prince of the country, who had abandoned his capital, compelled to 
 forsake it by the continual persecution of the Donagla. His father, 
 Mange, had fallen by the sword of Nessugo, an ally of the slave 
 traders. Thus he paid for the murder of Balanga, the unfortunate 
 son of Munza, to whom he had given hopes of an alliance that led 
 to the ruin of his State. Without any fixed abode, and followed 
 by a few Sandeh, he was wandering through his own territories, 
 vainly endeavouring to incite his people to revenge. Most of 
 them, being afraid of the uncertainty of the present, and dread- 
 ing still more a future tyranny, preferred crossing the river and 
 placing themselves under the protection of Kanna. A clear idea 
 of the mournful and desolate condition of the country was given 
 by the sight of burnt villages, forsaken fields, and frightened and 
 suspicious natives wandering in the forests with arms ready for 
 use. There was neither industry nor agriculture in the land. 
 
 Bauli had a son who was an Albino. I had several opportuni- 
 ties, during my excursions, of observing cases of this phenomenon, 
 
 I
 
 I30 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 Amongst the Mege I saw an All)ino of mature age ; an infant 
 among the Nganzi ; a child of Bakangoi ; and a son of Kanna. 
 The greater part of the Albinos I met with were among the 
 Sandeh. 
 
 Albino is a word of Portuguese origin. The Albinos have a veiy 
 white skin, with very fine glossy white hair, and a beard of the 
 same colour. The iris and the pupil of the eye are both of a pale 
 pink hue. 
 
 When they look at any object they contract their eyes, as if 
 they were gazing at the sun ; in darkness and at night their sight 
 is better. They are to be found in every country, and among all 
 races, but it appears they are most numerous among the blacks. 
 
 Albinoism, according to medical men, is caused by a deficiency 
 of pigment in the deep under-strata of the skin and in the iris 
 of the eye, but the true cause of this phenomenon is still a mystery. 
 It is generally hereditary, but sometimes also sporadic. 
 
 Animals, such as rabbits, mice, crows, and pigeons, are often 
 afflicted with it. 
 
 The famous white elephants worshipped in Burmah are Albinos, 
 when their appearance is not caused by a kind of leprosy that 
 makes their skin partially white. In cases of perfect Albinoism 
 the skin is colourless. 
 
 I was approaching Bondimano when the sound of drums reached 
 my ears and made me think that I was about to see one of those 
 famous dances where drinking is so freely indulged in. It was 
 Prince Zebo, one of Ntikima's sons, who was conducting an African 
 orchestra. When he caught sight of me, he stared but did not 
 interrupt his performance. In a short time he rose and I could 
 then see that he was tall, with well-proportioned limbs. His 
 countenance had a resolute expression of something more than 
 boldness : it was ferocity. His face was blackened with charcoal 
 dust, and he was wearing a torn garment made of bark fibres, 
 which covered him from his waist downwards. He had no orna- 
 ment either on his wrists or round his neck. 
 
 " I have kept you waiting," he said. 
 
 " It does not matter in the least," I replied. 
 
 " I could not help it. It is a sad duty that I must perform 
 at this hour of the day. I am mourning over the death of two 
 unfortunate brothers of mine, killed by the Ababua people." 
 
 " What were they doing amongst those people ? " 
 
 " They went on a raid, according to custom. The expedition 
 was beaten and dispersed, and my two brothers were captured and 
 cut to pieces while wandering in the forests searching for a way of 
 escape." 
 
 " Are you certain of their death ? " I asked. 
 
 " Yes ; one of our soldiers was with them on the day of the 
 capture. He was able to escape and return to us ; but the day of
 
 SORROW AND REVENGE. 
 
 131 
 
 vengeance is at hand. The rites of mourning ended, I will cause 
 that country to be laid waste ; meanwhile my brother Bakangoi 
 has secretly sent some of his friends to kill the known authors of 
 the murder," 
 
 A fortnight after I was at Nedupia ; I'akangoi had come to pay 
 me a visit, when a negro 
 arrived and presented 
 him with a human hand 
 stuck on a small stick. 
 *'A11 right," said the 
 king, unmoved. It was 
 the hand of one of the 
 murderers. 
 
 I mentioned to him, 
 how grieved and anxious 
 to take revenge I had 
 found Zebo. He an- 
 swered, " Zebo is a mad- 
 man ; they are dead, and 
 there is an end of it, and 
 it would be folly on our 
 jjart to challenge the 
 Ababua, for this reason." 
 After a short j^anse he 
 resumed, " It is true that 
 my faithful friends keep 
 on saying, ' What are you 
 doing ? You lack energy. 
 The Ababua, aided by 
 the Abisanga, have killed your two brothers. Let us go and exter- 
 minate them and carry off their women.' But they are wrong. 
 To invade a country with such ferocious inhabitants means certain 
 death and ruin. Do they forget that an Ababua woman has given 
 birth to a leopard ? " 
 
 Leaving the forest, that from Bondimano grows continually denser 
 as it extends along the shore of the Bomokandi, I passed round 
 the gi'oups of mountains that form the watershed between the 
 rivers Bomokandi and Makua, and taking a northerly direction 
 (leaving the hills of ]Mambaga, Zungli, and Mapulior on the left), 
 I passed through a country inhabited by the Abarambo, and arrived 
 at Modaqua, in proximity to the Makua. From thence, turning to 
 the south-west, and then to the west, I reached Polemi, the resi- 
 dence of Nganzi, another of Ntikima's sons. This man is full of 
 energy, proud but brave. He fought against his nephew Bauli 
 and his three brothers. Kanna, Bakangoi, and Mobra. He was 
 struggling against his Abarambo subjects, who had rebelled ; but 
 he was little loved even bv the Sandeh, and he was treacherously 
 
 THE IJIPALED HAND.
 
 132 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 killed about the end of the year 1882. His adopted son, Ngima^ 
 was proclaimed king in liis stead. His kingdom comprised the 
 territory between the Makua and the Bomokandi, bounded on the 
 east by the little river Moua, and west by the Mambia. 
 
 The eastern region is hilly, and slopes gradually in a south- 
 westerly direction, where it spreads into large plains, extending 
 towards the river Bomokandi. 
 
 The principal of these are called Alabara and Nzaba, and are 
 inhabited by numerous troops of gazelles, buffaloes and elephants. 
 
 Chimpanzees, monkeys, and birds of beautiful plumage sport 
 amidst the groves, fields, and hills. The silk tree, resinous plants, 
 India-rubber trees, and the Palma elais prosper and abound in the 
 marshy places. 
 
 The cultivation of bananas is limited, and the natives feed upon 
 maize, tclahun, and sweet potatoes in preference. 
 
 The season of the rains is very bad and stormy : clouds heralded 
 by violent winds and roaring thunder are always followed by heavy 
 rainfalls. Night storms possess all the horror of the approaching 
 end of the world. 
 
 I was sheltered once in a large but shaky hut, whose supports 
 were both old and weak ; in the distance I could hear the wind 
 whistling through the branches and leaves of the forest, announcing 
 the coming storm. It was pouring with rain ; lightning flashed in 
 all directions, and the thunder was deafening ; the roof of my hut 
 began to give way, and the storm fell in all its majesty ; together 
 with my boys I caught hold of the posts that supported the roof, 
 and we endeavoured, with all our might, and in every possible way, 
 to prevent it from being blown off by the overpowering tempest, 
 but our efforts were of no avail, it was lifted off, and we were left 
 to the mercy of the storm. 
 
 Next morning, the sun rose in all its splendour, whilst we were 
 searching for our poor donkey, which, dragging the post to which 
 it had been tied, was feeding quietly at more than two hours' 
 journey from the village. 
 
 The huts of the Abarambo, detached from one another, or stand- 
 ing two by two, but seldom grouped together in numbers, are 
 scattered over the sides of the hills or hidden in the long grass of 
 the valleys ; having rather the appearance of improvised huts for 
 temporary shelter than of permanent dwellings. They consist of a 
 conical roof built on the ground and covered by grass ; inside them 
 are a few stools and a bedstead, formed of four rough posts stuck 
 into the ground, upon which some sticks are laid longitudinally 
 and across ; the mattress is represented by a few handf uls of dry 
 grass. 
 
 Similar to their beds are the ornaments of the dwellings ; aiTOWS 
 of various shapes, Mambettu and Sandeh shields, a few earthenware 
 pots of different sizes, but uniformly rough. A special industry
 
 MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS. 133 
 
 gives an idea of their talent — the art of making pretty little statues 
 by wood-carving is theirs, and in this way they excel all the other 
 tribes. The handles of their mandolines, the lids of their bark 
 boxes, the girdles which they use for dress, are all ornamented 
 with carvings of human heads and small figures, in which a certain 
 regularity of design is united to clever and intelligent workmanship. 
 
 At sunrise, on the third day after my arrival, shouts of war 
 resounded through the village, the hurry of armed men, and women 
 running about shrieking and uttering broken words, all pointing 
 towards the valley ; a large dog-headed ape, the terror of the poor 
 husbandmen, had been discovered in a maize-field close by. Hun- 
 dreds of arrows were aimed at it, it was struck by lances, and the 
 poor animal having at last been killed was triumj)hantly borne to 
 the village. The king came and offered it to me. 
 
 " What am I to do with it ? " I said. " It is quite spoiled by the 
 numerous wounds." 
 
 " Eat it ; the flesh is very nice." 
 
 " Thank you, but we do not eat this kind of animal." 
 
 " You are wrong ; voquo flesh is as good as man's." 
 
 I smiled ; it was the second time that I had heard a voluntary 
 and explicit confession of the tastes of cannibals. 
 
 Nganzi was fond of music ; his favourite instrument was the 
 qucniba, consisting of a certain number of keys, which, being 
 struck with rubber-coated sticks, transmits tones by means of cups 
 of different sizes. A talented artist can play charming melodies 
 upon it. 
 
 Among their musical instruments, the Sandeh, as well as the 
 Mambettu, often boast of a sort of mandoline. It generally has 
 five strings, made of the twisted fibres of plants, and fixed at both 
 ends by pegs. The situation of these pegs is the only difference 
 from the guitar of the Mambettu, who call their instrument dumo, 
 while the Sandeh call it coiidi. 
 
 The remembrance of a charming singer occurs to me, who cheered 
 us with his expressive songs during the cold nights we spent on the 
 banks of the Kibali. He was lamenting his lost beloved one. " I 
 am alone. I have lost thee, oh Kalamassita " (J/^ shungo iolc dcte ; 
 Sanga badi ale Kalamassita^ ; and nobody in the camp ever dared 
 to interi'upt that song. 
 
 Youths of noble lineage boast of being famous musicians, and 
 
 DO 7 
 
 take their mandoline with them everywhere, whether in war or 
 peace. Such is their ambition of possessing an elegant and artistic- 
 ally shaped instrument, that they do not mind paying any amount 
 for one. 
 
 Nganzi and I were chatting one day upon different topics, when 
 the conversation casually turned upon the tassels of the silk tree 
 {Biodcndrum omphractuosiu'ii). I expressed the idea that they 
 might be utilised for stuffing pillows.
 
 >Mo{J<iu^^ 
 
 SANDEH SINGER.
 
 VISIT TO BAKANGOI. 135 
 
 " Do not do it," he said, " as it would give you dreadful pains in 
 the head. We have tried it." 
 
 On my departure, Nganzi introduced me to two of his most 
 reliable people, who were to accompany me as far as Bakangoi's 
 residence. 
 
 After having passed through Nagugo, near the Makua, keeping 
 south-west, we crossed grassy plains, and reached the banks of the 
 Bomokandi. 
 
 The river is crossed in boats, which are made from the excavated 
 trunks of trees, and propelled by oars, the blades of which are 
 circular. 
 
 The width of the river at the ferry is about ooO feet (100 metres), 
 and the depth is 13 feet. The flow is of medium pace. 
 
 At Nekora, the spot where I ferried the river to enter the country 
 of the Mege of Azanga, it was about 260 feet (80 metres) wide. 
 
 At Negokolo, situated about three hours' journey from the river 
 Bomokandi, I was received by the old Ndeni, Ntikima's brother, a 
 tall, upright man, with grey hair, and very cordial manners, with 
 a smile always on his face. 
 
 " My nephew, Bakangoi, expects a visit from you, I know," he 
 said, " but you must stay one day more with me. Bakangoi cannot 
 be offended at your doing so. He calls me his father, and I think 
 I have a father's rights." 
 
 On May 2, 1882, a messenger from Miani's celebrated host was 
 awaiting me by the river Mambana. He welcomed me in the 
 name of his Sovereign, and presented me, on his Majesty's behalf, 
 with a lance, a splendid piece of Ababuan workmanship. 
 
 The king received me kindly, and gave me convenient lodgings 
 during the ten days I stayed with him. He returned my presents 
 by arms and tools of local manufacture. 
 
 Bakangoi, the second son of Ntikima, was one of the most power- 
 ful of the Sandeh chiefs. He was astute and clever, and the sturdi- 
 ness of the barbarians was in him accompanied by an imitation of 
 the courteous and kind manners which he had observed in the 
 ivory merchants. He was little liked, aiid much feared by hia 
 subjects. 
 
 At the instigation of his mother, and when he was but a youth, 
 he murdered his brother Bufula ; but she paid for her insane ambi- 
 tion with her life, for her husband killed her. 
 
 Heir to a small territory, he extended his kingdom by conquering 
 his brother Ngandua's dominions. 
 
 The popula'tion consists chiefly of Sandeh, but there are also 
 many Abarambo and Abisanga. The country is rich in iron ore, 
 ivory, rubber, palm oil, and resinous woods. Among the agricul- 
 tural products are tdabun^ maize, sesame, ground nuts, honey, &c. 
 
 The king has a vast residence, and possesses more than 500 
 women. He keeps them with him for not more than two years,
 
 136 
 
 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 and afterwards weds them to his favourites. Little girls follow 
 the fate of their mothers, whilst the male children remain with their 
 father. 
 
 His favourite wives are not married to others. The daughters, 
 when grown up, are offered in marriage to his own brothers, and 
 other relatives. 
 
 Bakangoi almost always wore cloth dresses, bought of the mer- 
 chants. He had an Arab bed, with rich coverj, elegant pillows, 
 lamps, and all sorts of vessels and beads. 
 
 One day he proudly showed me the present of beads received 
 from jDOor Miani. 
 
 EXECUTION BY STKANGULATION. 
 
 It is the general opinion among potentates of his rank that the 
 greater number a king kills the stronger and more powerful he is ; 
 also that fear, not love, makes subjects obedient and faithful. 
 
 In accordance with these ideas, he was severe and even cruel, 
 and death was the punishment he inflicted for the least fault. 
 Adultery and theft were punished by strangulation ; commutation 
 of the sentence was only granted in exceptional cases, and to persons 
 of the upper classes ; never to the people. 
 
 A woman belonging to his son Akangoi fled with her lover to the 
 countries of the chief Bangue, who killed the man, and, according 
 to custom, had the right hand cut off the body and sent to Bakangoi, 
 interceding for grace and pardon for the woman.
 
 I AM DETAINED B V BAKANGOI. 137 
 
 '•' If I do not have this woman killed, my son will become a 
 servant/' he answered, and had her strangled at once. 
 
 A boy who was accused of having stolen a little copper was 
 hanged, and the same fate befell a man who had attempted to 
 seduce a peasant woman. 
 
 Execution by strangulation is here a most barbarous and horrible 
 punishment. The criminal is tied by the neck to the trunk of a 
 tree, and then his legs are pulled till he breathes his last, in dread- 
 ful sufferings. 
 
 "If I were certain that they would not take away my women," 
 said the king one day to me, "I should not object to ask the 
 alliance and protection of the Egyptian Government against the 
 Ababua, as my brother Nganzi intends doing." 
 
 " Why should they deprive you of your women ? The Govern- 
 ment is not interested in such things.'"' 
 
 " Of course, I do not mean the Government, but their soldiers. 
 People coming from Mambettu-land have been speaking to me 
 about it." 
 
 Bakangoi was very fond of the fair sex. After sunset, instead 
 of an escort of warriors, who accompanied him in the daytime, he 
 was followed by a suite of young women, armed with lance and 
 shield. The favourite one had the honour of holding the kings 
 arms when he was resting or sitting down. 
 
 I intended to have gone to the Makua through the Ababua and 
 Idio countries, but neither entreaties nor the hope of being given a 
 gun would induce the king to grant me the permission. 
 
 '•'Do you not know that the Ababua are very ferocious ?" he 
 said. 
 
 •' I am perfectly aware of it, but not in the least frightened." 
 
 " If that does not frighten you it does me." 
 
 " Why should you trouble yourself about what may happen to 
 me?" I asked. 
 
 " If you were killed, your friends would make war on me, accus- 
 ing me of having caused your death." 
 
 " But I have arms, and can defend myself," I said. 
 
 " That will not suffice : many guns would be required. The 
 Ababua do not allow strangers to visit their country ; they would 
 never allow a white man to pass their boundaries ! " 
 
 " You might give me some guides, and thus enable me to cross 
 their country by secret and unknown ways." 
 
 " Yes ; their country is small. But do you think that the men 
 I would send with you would follow you ? " 
 
 " Why not ? They would never dare to disobey your orders." 
 
 He laughed. 
 
 "Oh!" said he, "when they are near me they all obey me; 
 but do you believe that such would be the case at a distance ? 
 At the least alarm they would forsake you, and you would lose
 
 138 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 your way and be killed. In dread of my anger, they would never 
 return to their country. No, no ! Do not mention it any more ; 
 for I will never allow you to go to that accursed land." 
 
 I saw that it was of no avail to insist upon it ; and I decided 
 to visit the country of the Sandeh tribes of the East. 
 
 Delighted with my decision, the king presented me with a young 
 chimpanzee, a famous thief. It was impossible to avoid admiring 
 the speed with which he ran away with a spike of maize, that he 
 carried without dropping, between his hip and thigh.
 
 ( 139 ) 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 THE SANDEH. 
 
 Valley of the Bomokandi — Forests and fields — The Sandeh— Ornaments and 
 wearing apparel — Arms— Men's occupation — Working women — Proofs of 
 respect — Bia muie — The Idio tribe — Politics of Ntikima — Theft of a corpse — 
 War — Ntikima's sepulchre — African vestals — Fratricidal war — The Tummiv^- 
 Large and small fowls — The river Poko — Well cultivated fields — Old Zaccala — 
 Attacked by dogs — Sandeh dogs — At Ndubala — Kanna is less ferocious than his 
 brothers — Dead people never return — The wife sacrificed on her husband's 
 tomb — Witchcraft — A king's favourite — My good fortune — The exchange of 
 blood — The European's friend — Kanna's artful politics — -The defunct father 
 who watches over the kingdom — Two hundred and fifty gazelles — Good wishes 
 for my journey — Miani's itinerary — Bazimbi and a gun — -The " elephant and 
 the mouse "— '■ The dead man and the moon " — The buft'alo trap— The Queniba 
 (favourite musical instrument of the Sandeh). 
 
 The hydrographic system of the Bomokandi is chiefly fed by the 
 waters that descend from the line of its confluence with the 
 Nepoko. The most imj^ortant of these rivers are the Nala, Teli, 
 Poke, and Makongo. They have sandy beds, their courses are 
 short, and current perennial and slow. They run towards the 
 north-west, and receive there the streams of water which have 
 their springs on the extensive table-land. The soil is fertile, and 
 crops are not destroyed by termites. In the region on the right- 
 hand side of the Teli elephants abound in large numbers, and 
 between the two rivers Teli and Poko large herds of gazelles are 
 to be found, whilst Bakangoi's countiy is celebrated for its 
 buffaloes. 
 
 The oil palm is not abundant in the country, except in the 
 territory between the Makongo and the Bomokandi, where it 
 flourishes. 
 
 The forest, which extends over a great part of the country, is 
 majestic from its many and ancient trees. It is broken here and 
 there by table-lands with a thiclc vegetation of short grass, and by 
 villages surrounded by large and flourishing fields. 
 
 The principal crops are maize, fclahun, a little Indian millet, 
 ground nuts (arachis), beans (plentifully), sweet potatoes, manioc, 
 and sesame. 
 
 Boats are the means of communication between the banks of the 
 river Bomokandi ; at Bondimano, and at the river Quali, Nekora 
 and Salinde, for the intercourse with the Monfu. This territory 
 is inhabited by the Sandeh, a tribe which is destined to spread
 
 140 
 
 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 over all Central Africa, and which is already in possession of a 
 country extendiug north-north-east from the Nile-Congo water- 
 shed to the south of the Makua. Amongst the Mambettu tribe 
 ,y they are called Mavungula. 
 
 A SANDEII XEGRO. 
 
 The Sandeh are mostly of medium height, have a broad forehead, 
 and dark reddish skin. The men wear small plaits of hair hanging 
 from the top of the head, some of them are tattooed by incisions, 
 often with dots and dashes, stained black with the juice of gardenia. 
 Their dresses cover from their hips down to the knees, and are 
 made of the bark of trees, pressed and beaten out in imitation of 
 the Mambettu, but in a less perfect manner. They adorn their 
 heads by entwining them with herbs or grass, in the shape of aT" 
 flower-pot. Women roll their locks round bunches of false hair 
 and grass, in the form of a crown, which they tie with red bands.
 
 THE SANDEH. 
 
 T41 
 
 A red net surrounds their foreliead, and, falling upon the nape 
 of their neck, waves gracefully on the back. 
 
 C4irls as well as boys are completely naked ; attached to a rope 
 round their waist the women wear a narrow cloth fastened to a 
 
 A SANDEH NEGRO. 
 
 waist-band or cord, at the back of which is a bunch of red or black 
 dyed grass. They all stain their skin with red sawdust and with 
 an oil which they procure from a wild berry. Both sexes wear 
 large pins of ivory, iron, monkey or human bones, stuck in their 
 hair, and iron rings, small chains, and bracelets adorn their necks, 
 arms, and feet. The Sandeh are armed with long knives and 
 spears ; their shields are elliptically shaped, and made of wicker- 
 work ; bows and arrows are the arms reserved for servants. They 
 are warriors and hunters of repute, also good-tempered, intelligent, 
 and reasonable ; kindness, hospitality and loquacity being also 
 amongst their distinguishing qualities.
 
 142 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 The women have charge of the dwellings as also the cultivation 
 of the fields. The men manufacture nets for the chase, work ivory 
 and iron into long pins, which are often prettily carved ; plait 
 straw hats, hampers, and baskets, &c. They also make beds and 
 stools, but their handiwork is far from attaining the style and neat 
 workmanship which we find in similar furniture of the Mambettu. 
 
 Dead people's flesh and that of men killed in war is a most 
 appreciated dish. 
 
 They show great respect to tlieir king and to people of rank. In 
 the presence of their chief they bow and advance towards him, 
 stooping low and bending the knee when they stop. On leaving 
 his presence, still bending, they walk backwards for a certain dis- 
 tance and then draw themselves erect. 
 
 At public assemblies the chiefs arrive with their warriors, who, 
 before they take their places, execute martial manoeuvres and sham 
 fights with wonderful speed and accuracy. When the king arrives, 
 those present rise and salute him with shouts of " Bia muie con " 
 (Good morning, king), whilst the old people in their turn bow 
 and greet him with the words, " Bia mipc cotiro "' (King, we salute 
 thee). The same expressions are used when his Majesty sneezes 
 or coughs. 
 
 A large number of women sit behind the orator at public assem- 
 blies, and occasionally interrupt the speaker with loud cries and 
 prolonged trills. 
 
 The origin, time of immigration, and history of this tribe and its 
 kings are well worth relating. 
 
 They are a wave of people, thrown up by the periodical 
 immigrations of restless tribes, who, always in motion and thirst- 
 ing for supremacy and dominion, finally achieved their own de- 
 struction. 
 
 Eighty years ago the banks of the river Mbili were governed by 
 Avungula, a despotic prince of the Idio people, who were scattered 
 over a vast territory. Ndeni, one of the chief officials of his house- 
 hold, finding it impossible to take revenge on the king for some 
 offence, left the Court and country, and went with a few faithful 
 friends to the Ababua tribe. Fortune did not smile upon the exile, 
 and he and his miserable companions were cruelly murdered. 
 
 Ntikima, then a child, saw with grief the violence used towards 
 his father, and heard, with anguish, of his miserable end ; but he 
 remained silent and dissimulated. When grown up, and endowed 
 with rare energy and great ability, he assembled a small number of 
 brave and steadfast friends, secretly left Avungula's Court, and 
 marched through the Ababua country, fighting, laying the country 
 waste, and breathing fury as he avenged his father's death. 
 
 Desolation and slaughter marked his way, and he ceased inflicting 
 vengeance only when he reached his beloved parent's gi'ave. 
 
 The fame of his deeds soon reached his native country, and many
 
 NTIKIMAS STOR Y. 
 
 143 
 
 of the Iclio, enthusiastic for the younf^ hero, joined his cause. Well 
 furnished with men and arms, he directed his course eastwards, 
 conquered the Abisanga, Abarambo, Abba, and Mambettu tribes, 
 
 WEAPONS OF THE SAXDEII. 
 
 and was engaged in war for a number of years, thus consolidating 
 the Sandeh dominion in the lands washed by the Makua and 
 Bomokandi. Weary at last of a life of continual warfare and
 
 144 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 fatigue, and being aged and in delicate health, he settled at 
 Ndubala in the last years of his life, dividing his kingdom between 
 his elder sons, Kanna, Bakangoi, Mange, Nganzi, Bangue, Ngandua, 
 Zaccala, and Mobra, and constituting his younger ones nobles, 
 under these princes. 
 
 Ntikima was tall and well built, with a keen and penetrating eye. 
 He used to dress plainly, and was in the habit of blacking his face 
 and neck with fine charcoal dust. In his own country he was 
 called Kipa, but he chose to be known as Ntikima, the Conqueror. 
 He had numbers of beautiful women at his house, some of whom 
 he had married, whilst others were stolen from the Mambettu, 
 Abai-ambo, and Abisanga people. He had numerous children, his 
 sons alone amounting to fifty. 
 
 In the punishment of crimes, and especially of theft and ra.pe, 
 he was very severe. He caused Bakangoi's mother to be executed, 
 as we have already related ; neither her beauty, nor prayers, nor 
 the warm affection that he bore the unhappy woman could change 
 his determination. 
 
 He always endeavoured to be on good terms with Munza and 
 with the chiefs of the tribes adjacent to his kingdom, and even 
 manifested generosity to the ivory merchants. 
 
 His death occurred in 1868, and he left his women and wealth 
 to his favourite son, Mang^. His body, together with his clothes, 
 arms, and decorations, w^as buried in the place where he died, in 
 accordance with his last wishes. 
 
 So great was his fame that he was considered a demi-god, rather 
 than a hero, by the neighbouring tribes, and objects that used to 
 belong to him were sought after as talismans. No sooner had the 
 Mege heard of his death than, inspired with religious superstition, 
 they gathered together and stole his corpse and everything that 
 had been interred with it; but Mange and Kanna, assisted by 
 King Munza, attacked the robbers, and, after a horrible carnage, 
 succeeded in recovering some of his remains, which they placed in 
 a wooden urn. Even now these relics are enthusiastically wor- 
 shipped by the people. 
 
 Twenty-five maidens watched over the remains, and fire was 
 continually burning in the hut erected over the grave ; at sunrise 
 the floor of the hut was washed with water, and every evening food 
 was placed on the tomb, which next day was distributed amongst 
 the Sandeh tribe. The vestal who broke her vow of chastity or 
 allowed the fire to go out was sentenced to death. 
 
 But the germ of discord soon developed between the brothers. 
 Kanna, Bakangoi, and Bangue were jealous of the predilection 
 which their father had shown for Mange. Nganzi reproached them 
 for their disrespectful behaviour, but, as Mange was protected by 
 the powerful Munza on account of his good qualities, they had to 
 restrain their anger, conspiring in secret.
 
 FRATRICIDAL WARS. 
 
 145 
 
 The death of Munza, killed by the slave-traders, and of Mang(^, 
 murdered by Nessugo, became the signal for a fratricidal war. 
 No:anzi was assailed on the jMambaofa and Zunofli Mountain. 
 
 A SANDEH MAIDEN. 
 
 Bakangoi drove Ngandua from his kingdom, whilst Kanna fought 
 his three brothers, Mobra, Bangue, and Zaccala. 
 
 K
 
 146 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 The approach of the wet season was announced from the thickest 
 part of the forest by the cries, Aniyniha clave, aneinha chiH (Bring 
 wood, bring wood), proceeding from the tiimmu, the colossal eagle, 
 with its white and black spotted feathers, watching on the highest 
 trees by the banks of rivers, to fall on its incautious victims, mice, 
 monkeys, and gazelles ; now hunting, itself hunted the next, des- 
 tined as it is to adorn the heads of kings. 
 
 Towards the end of May, giving up all my pleasant plans, I 
 went eastward, and, after having crossed the little river Mambana, 
 an affluent of the Bomokandi, and many other streams, I visited 
 Zumbi, Akangoi's residence. 
 
 Akangoi, a son of Bakangoi, was an intelligent man, with a sad 
 and serene look and kind manners. He presented me with some 
 uncommonly large fowls, a strong contrast to those I had seen in 
 the Mambettu country, which were small, but much appreciated 
 for delicacy of flavour. 
 
 A small species of fowls with short legs, called, akka (pigmy), are 
 in very high repute, in the countries bordering on the Bomokandi, 
 for their proud appearance and the flavour of their flesh. 
 
 The next day I ferried over the river Poko, the springs of which 
 are in the country inhabited by the Maigo tribe, at four days' dis- 
 tance from Ndubala towards the S.E. This river, running in a 
 north-west direction, falls into the Bomokandi, not far from Mount 
 Mongiana. It has a breadth of about 80 feet (25 metres), and a 
 depth of about 4 to 5 feet. Having passed through Moranda, once 
 a seat of Ngandua, and after crossing many rivulets and being 
 ferried over the oMaiango, I found myself in the State governed by 
 King Kanna. On this trip I visited Bategande, Tivo, Guatapo, 
 Mbeke, Nadomba, Makombo, and Nadumbaia ; each more or less 
 at the mercy of despotic princes, such as Mbua, Bangue, Numangi, 
 Ngandua, Zaccala, Mbioko, Momboiko. brothers or close relatives 
 of Kanna, the victor of the fraternal rivalry. 
 
 On the 29th of May 1882, I paid a visit to Ngandua, at Mbeke, 
 a worthless king, who had no skill in war, but devoted his talents 
 and ambition to agriculture and the cultivation of maize and pas- 
 ture land. 
 
 Old Zaccala invited me to his house that I might taste the flesh 
 of several animals killed in that day's sport. Scarcely had I stepped 
 into the large hut when a number of dogs that were lying on the 
 floor rose and rushed at me, barkinof in a threateninsf manner, so 
 that 1 was surrounded on all sides by these ferocious animals, and 
 I do not know how I should have escaped from my embarrassment, 
 if their master's powerful voice had not driven them to a hut close 
 by, where they continued barking and growling. 
 
 Of these dogs, Schweinfurth says : " The dogs of the Niam-Niam 
 (Sand eh), as well as the greater part of those in the Nile region, 
 are without the fifth nail in their hind legs, which ours possess^
 
 NIAM-NIAM DOGS. 
 
 147 
 
 In order to trace them in the tall grass, the Niam-Niam people tie 
 a wooden bell to their neck. 
 
 " In common with their masters, they have a marked tendency 
 to fatness, which is encouraged by the people ; their flesh being a 
 favourite food.
 
 148 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 " They resemble the wolf-hound, but are of small proportions and 
 have large erect ears ; their hair is of a bright yellow colour, short 
 and soft, but sometimes white round the neck ; their short tail is 
 curled like that of a pig. They have a thin nose, and short, straight 
 legs, which show that these dogs have nothing in common with the 
 terriers painted in the ancient Egyptian frescoes, and of which the 
 African origin has not yet been proved." 
 
 At noon, on the 31st of May 1882, I arrived at Ndubala, where 
 I was received by King Kanna. His ways and manners were harsh 
 and rude, but he was sometimes frank. He was careless of his 
 person and clothes. Though clever and brave, public opinion 
 asserted that he was extremely avaricious. Before his father's 
 death, he used to govern a small territory between the Makua and 
 Bomokandi, which he afterwards gave to his brother Kamsa. 
 He fought with his brothers and made them tributaries, and annexed 
 to his kingdom part of the lauds inhabited by the tribes Akka and 
 Mege. Of an obstinate temper he also encountered Azanga several 
 times, and in November 1881, forsaken by his subjects, he had a 
 very narrow escape of his life in a sanguinary combat, and was 
 badly wounded in his thigh and right hand. 
 
 The king heard complaints in public, and pronounced sentence 
 on the spot, such being the traditional custom of the Sandeh. The 
 execution of the sentence was also immediate, and if death by 
 strangulation was to be the fate of the offender, the corpse was left 
 to be devoured by wild animals and rapacious birds, or was either 
 eaten or buried according to the judgment. Sometimes, as a sign 
 of the Sovereign's clemency, the decree ordered one half of the 
 body to be interred, the other part to be eaten or left for the 
 beasts. 
 
 But Kanna differed from Bakangoi and his other brothers in 
 being reluctant to pronounce sentence of death, and on this account 
 all the people respected and loved him. 
 
 Adultery and theft he punished with fines and confiscation of 
 property, always, however, sparing agricultural implements. " Dead 
 people never return," he told me one day, " and the evil would fall 
 upon my shoulders if I were often to sentence people to death. 
 Woe, however, to those who attempt to leave the kingdom with 
 their families and arms ; death would be too slight a punishment 
 for them." 
 
 His words were borne out. A few days before my arrival in the 
 country, an unfortunate was arrested while trying to escape from 
 Kanna's kingdom, and was hewed to pieces by an axe. 
 
 Do they immolate human victims on the tombs ? Although I 
 was assured that a deed of the kind was rare, nevertheless the 
 doubt remains. 
 
 The king sentenced to death the relatives of a man who had been 
 executed, because they had immolated one of the wives upon his
 
 ENCHANTMENTS AGAINST DISEASE.
 
 THE EXCHANGE OF BLOOD. 149 
 
 grave, " I cannot tolerate sucli atrocious murders in my kingdom ; 
 Ntikima's spirit would spread desolation all over the country and 
 cease to protect us, if I did." 
 
 Witches, whom the people look upon as priestesses, foretell the 
 future, the issue of an enterprise, and recovery from illness and 
 trouble, through their spells. The king himself consults them and 
 respects their replies. The health of one of his most beautiful and 
 beloved favourites was failing her, without any manifest cause; 
 vain were the drugs and medicines administered to her ; then they 
 had recourse to the chief priestess. Crowds of people witnessed the 
 ceremony, and I was amongst those invited to it. Two witches, 
 whose faces were painted red, their hips and thighs covered with 
 banana leaves, their ankles encircled by bells, gazed upon the 
 bewitched woman. The chief priestess approached her and touched 
 her body, whilst the nuggar c beat a dance tune. 
 
 And the witches danced a fantastic congo^ accompanied by loud 
 songs ; at times rapidly drawing near their victim, who showed 
 her horror by wriggling and crawling along the ground, laughing, 
 crying, and uttering broken monosyllables ; thus the scene of 
 witchcraft proceeced for more than two hours. 
 
 At last the patient moved, and finally walked. She will recover ; 
 a mysterious draught will be given to her for three consecutive 
 days, and some toasted herbs will again restore her to health. 
 
 " I have seen the future," said the witch, approaching me, " and 
 thou wilt be happy and have a long life." 
 
 The exchange of blood is often practised among the blacks of 
 Africa, as a token of alliance and friendship. The Mambettu 
 people, after having inflicted small wounds upon each other's arms, 
 reciprocally suck the blood which flows from the incisions. In the 
 Unyoro country the parties dip two coffee-berries into the blood 
 and eat them. Amongst the Sandeh, the j)roceedings are not so 
 repulsive ; the operator, armed with two sharp knives, inoculates 
 the blood of one person into the wound of the other. 
 
 Kanna used to visit me very often, and our conversations were 
 upon various subjects. At times he spoke of his hatred for slave 
 traders ; at others mentioned his fear of the aggressive tendencies 
 of the soldiers ; but more often he talked of his favourite project 
 of peopling the Bomokandi valley with tribes of the Akka, and 
 moving the Sandeh tribes southwards. 
 
 One evening, when he had talked rather longer than usual 
 with me, he said, rising to retire, " I wish you would do me a 
 favour." 
 
 "Ask it; nothing can be refused a hia (king)." 
 
 " I should like to enter into a bond of brotherhood with you." 
 
 " I agree, with pleasure," I said. 
 
 "Thank you ; I was afraid you would refuse." 
 
 " Why should I oppose your wishes ?"
 
 ISO TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA, 
 
 " Because you tell rae every day that you want to leave me," he 
 answered. 
 
 " You know I have many other countries to see, and many other 
 kings to visit. I hope they will all be as kind to me as you have 
 been." 
 
 " Very well, then, to-morrow." 
 
 At dawn of the following day, the king's courtiers, his women, 
 and a large number of warriors, took their places in the large court 
 destined for solemn meetings. Blood was exchanged between Kanna 
 and myself, amidst the deafening noise of drums and the enthu- 
 siastic cheers of those present. Kanna had obtained an unheard-of 
 triumph ; he had become the friend and ally of the white people. 
 
 His mother's brother, the aged Ndeni, whom he respected and 
 venerated as a father, was his only adviser. The king had a deep 
 reverence for his deceased relatives ; at Ndubala he kept his 
 father's remains with religious care, as also those of his grandfather 
 and his brother Mange, in neighbouring tombs. From great policy 
 or exaltation of feeling, he said to his people, " Ntikima is your 
 king ; I rule on his behalf and according to his wishes." 
 
 One day he related to them how, whilst he slept, the great king 
 appeared to him with an angi*y and scornful countenance, and had 
 said, " What are you doing with all your women, poltroon ? Culti- 
 vate my fields, and supply my wants." Touched by the super- 
 human command, his subjects at once hastened, and willingly and 
 reverently laboured in the king's fields. 
 
 A few days after my arrival I was lucky enough to witness a 
 general huU^* summoned by Kanna. 
 
 He reproached his subjects before his father's coflfin for their 
 slackness and cowardice in their last war, and then announced the 
 approaching resumption of hostilities with Azanga, concluding his 
 speech by saying that his father's spirit had ordered him to hold a 
 great hunt in his honour. 
 
 The next morning the king left for the Poko at the head of 500 
 huntsmen, with dogs and nets, whence he returned five days after- 
 wards with 250 gazelles. 
 
 The evening preceding my departure Kanna paid me a visit, and 
 presented me with the wing of a fowl. 
 
 " It is a good omen for a favourable journey," said he. " Do not 
 be afraid ; I have consulted the oracle, it has spoken, and I let you 
 go, as I have no fears on your account. ' 
 
 In trying the auguries he had stupidly squandered eighty fowls. 
 
 The Sandeh, according to the importance of the oracle required, 
 throw a certain number of fowls into a river. The answer is 
 favourable or the reverse in accordance with the greater or less 
 number of birds that succeed in gaining the land. Naturally, the 
 fowls that escape are deemed sacred, and are left free. 
 * Assembly, in the Mambettu tongue cadelu. 
 
 e »v.Cjt\^ Uvt ^^c; jr '- ^ t,^.
 
 IN MI A NTS FOO IS TEPS. 1 5 1 
 
 Whilst traversing the country inhabited by the Sandeh, I was 
 able to gather exact details as to the itinerary followed by Miani, 
 He left Munza's residence, and went to the river Quali ; then going 
 westward, he visited the chief Mange, who resided near the river 
 Neklima. Always following the course of the river Bomokandi, 
 he reached the territory of Nganzi, who presented him with a 
 chimpanzee. He crossed the river near Mount Mongiana, and, 
 having visited Ndeni, he went to see Bakangoi. The king, as well 
 as his people, had pleasant remembrances of good Miaui, and spoke 
 with admiration of his long beard and hair, and tlie beautiful glass 
 beads that he used to give away. 
 
 On his return journey he kept to the left bank of the Bomokandi, 
 and visited Zumbi, crossed the Poko, and went from thence to the 
 territory of Ngandua, where the natives robbed him of his ass in 
 retaliation for having had two of their women carried off by the 
 merchants of a caravan. Then Miani's health failed. Bangue told 
 me that his left hand had become discoloured, and that during the 
 thirty days he spent with him the discoloration extended up his 
 whole arm. 
 
 On leaving Bangue he journeyed to the country of the chief Zebo, 
 and again saw Mange, who gave him two young Akka. A few 
 days after he visited Numa, the king's brother, at the confluence of 
 the Nelimba and Bomokandi, and then returned to Munza's resi- 
 dence. It was there that he breathed his last, in the course of a 
 few days, weakened by fever and dysentery. 
 
 Owing to the heavy rainfall, I was obliged to stay at Gumba, a 
 territory belonging to Kanna, and governed by his son, Bazimbi, a 
 bad and wicked man, at enmity with his own father, and a rebel 
 against his authority. Angry at the bond of friendship by exchange 
 of blood between myself and his father, he threatened, shortly after 
 my arrival, to have me imprisoned ; and, mad with savage pride, 
 he ordered the bugles to sound, to summon his warriors to his 
 presence. I retaliated by ordering one of my servants to bring me 
 a gun, which I placed within my j-eacli. The effect was magical ; 
 my end was gained without any disturbance, and he was artful 
 enough to cause me to be saluted by those who gradually arrived. 
 
 He was afraid of my gun, whereas it was I who ought to have 
 been so, as it was not loaded. 
 
 During the four days of my compulsory stay at his Court, I 
 spent most of my time with the people of the escort the king had 
 given me. Amongst our various topics, the favourite one was that 
 relating to the traditional fables of the country. I transcribe two 
 of the best of them. 
 
 The ElepJiaut and the Mouse. 
 
 An elephant and a mouse met on the road one day. 
 " Get out of the way," said the latter.
 
 152 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 " I am the larger of the two, and it is your place to let me pass, 
 answered the elephant. 
 
 " May the tall grass twine round your legs," retorted the angry 
 mouse. 
 
 " May you met your death on the pathway," said the elephant, 
 crushing the mouse with his large foot. 
 
 Since that day the elephant hurts himself when running through 
 the grass, and the mouse is crushed when crossing the road. 
 
 TJie Dead Mail and the Moon. 
 
 An old man saw a corpse, on which the moon was shining ; lie 
 called together a great number of animals and addressed them in 
 this manner: " Come, which of you will undertake to carry this 
 body to the opposite side of the river, and who will take the dead 
 moon ? " 
 
 Two toads offered their services for the purpose : the one with 
 long legs took charge of the moon, and the short legged one carried 
 the dead man. 
 
 The bearer of the moon succeeded in crossing the river, but the 
 other was drowned on account of the shortness of his legs. This 
 is the reason why, when the moon dies (viz., when it sets) it re- 
 turns again, while, when a man perishes, he does not come back at 
 all. 
 
 We proceeded on our journey, through rough lands and tall 
 grass, the abode of immense numbers of elephants ; through dense 
 woods entangled by liannes ; our nights disturbed by the roaring 
 of wild beasts, and troubled by day with the difficulties of the 
 road, wbich were increased by the holes made by the elephants' 
 feet. 
 
 Having already passed Mount Dokoto, we decided on June 23rd 
 to go to the river Bomokandi. It had been dark for some hours, 
 and we were silently walking in single file over the plain formerly 
 inhabited by the pigmies, when a dismal prolonged ciy was heard, 
 which proceeded from the guide who was leading us. 
 
 The poor man had dropped into a trap intended for elephants, 
 buffaloes, and antelopes. I went to him, but he at once shouted, 
 " Do not be angry, your queniba is intact." 
 
 " So much the better," said I, " but what about yourself?" 
 
 " Oh, nothing serious." 
 
 We pulled him out of the pit and started on our journey again, 
 but this time more cautiously. 
 
 On June 28th, 1882, I arrived at Tangasi.
 
 ( 153 ) 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 THE WELLE-MAKUA, 
 
 Diego Cam in 1485 — Antonio Gavaazi in 1668— Tuckey in 1816— Welle-Niger — 
 The Welle — The brothers Poucet — Carlo Piaggia — Dr. George Schweinfurth— 
 March 19, 1870 — Characteristics of the river — It is the upper part of the Shari 
 river — The Xilopia ethiopica — Kumbo and Kubanda — Where does the Shari 
 rise? — Dr. Nachtigal — Hypothesis of the Welle — Kubanda — Meeting of the 
 Paris Congress, 1875 — The Aruwimi — The great river Obi — Kibali — Makua — ■ 
 Dua— Obangi — Difficulty of hypothesis — The division of waters in Africa — • 
 Orographical system — Zambesi, Congo and Nile — Latest explorations of 
 Captains Roget and Becker — Origin of the Welle — The Makua — Northern and 
 southern tributaries — Variety of its course^Aspect of the land — Its nature 
 and riches — Flora — Rubber and ivory — The climate — Childhood oi gcmis homo. 
 
 In the year 1485 Diego Cam discovered the mouth of the river 
 Congo. A century later, Duarte Lopez stayed there some time. 
 In 1668 the Capuchin Father, Antonio Gavazzi, who had resided 
 there for a long time, sent a lengthy and detailed description of 
 the country to Rome, and also of the trade carried on there by the 
 Portuguese. 
 
 In the year 1816, Tuckey, a British subject, undertook to ex- 
 plore the Lower Congo, but was unsuccessful in his attempt, as he, 
 with almost all the members of the expedition, died when they had 
 travelled about 280 miles from the sea. 
 
 The officers of the British iS^avy explored as far as the Yelalla 
 cataracts. Tuckey 's statement that the Congo describes a great 
 curve north of the Equator was exact, and yet the maps which 
 were drawn after that time always omitted the account given by 
 him, which has only been accepted of late years, since Stanley by 
 his explorations corroborated its exactness. 
 
 The idea of a conjunction between the Nile and the Niger had 
 been entertained by the Arabic geographers, Edrisi and Abu-el- 
 Feda. When, later on, people began to speak of a river Babura 
 (Welle), it was admitted that it flowed from the Albert Lake, and 
 discharged its waters into the Shari river on one side, and into the 
 Benue, an affluent of the Niger, on the other. It was then that 
 the thoughts of a river Welle-Niger arose. 
 
 The Welle ! A thick veil had covered this mysterious river for 
 a long time, hiding it from the researches of studious geographers 
 and travellers, who, of late, taking up the subtle threads of vague 
 and uncertain information, formed the most varied hypotheses
 
 1 54 TEN YEARS IN EQ UA TORIA. 
 
 respecting it, and arrived at very dififerent and often contradictory- 
 conclusions. 
 
 All that has been vpritten and said about this river is too diflfuse 
 to repeat, and, besides, it would have no scientific value. It is, 
 however, our duty to mention the phases of the gradual discovery 
 of this important river, in order to point out how arduous the diffi- 
 culty is of forming any hypothesis on geographical matters, espe- 
 cially when the structure and configuration of the countiy are so 
 characteristic and peculiar to the region as those of Central Africa. 
 A The Italian brothers Poncet, through their vddl^ agents for the 
 
 \ \ purchase of ivory, and Piaggia, whilst exploring the valley of the 
 river Mbruole in 1862 and 1865, when he was the guest of Kifa, a 
 Sandeh chief, were the first persons w^ho had a vague notion of the 
 existence of a great river which flowed from east to west, south of 
 the Bahr-el-Ghazal and Makraka regions. From that time the 
 attention of the European scientific world was concentrated on the 
 study of the hydrographic system of that region. 
 
 The river Welle, or Makua, with which those Italian travellers 
 were acquainted, could not be assigned to the Nile system, but 
 rather to the systems of the Tchad, or of the Niger, as no positive 
 datum could ensure the correctness of the decision. Schweinf urth 
 was the first European explorer who succeeded in reaching the 
 mysterious river, and he was enabled, by his eminent qualifications 
 ^ as a man of science, to lift part of the veil, and give us more reliable 
 
 information. 
 
 ^"'^v^ It was the 19th of March 1870. The river was then at its lowest 
 '^ level, and did not offer the striking scene that distinguishes it 
 when the copious rainfalls on the table-land of the Albert Lake 
 flow down to increase its bulk. 
 
 On the banks of the river the Doctor's aneroid indicated a height 
 of 2075 feet (633 metres) above the level of the sea. "The river 
 presents," wrote Schweinfurth, " the characteristics of a mountain 
 stream, and the colour of its waters reminds me of the Blue Nile 
 at Khartoum." 
 
 The information he had then acquired led him to believe that 
 the Welle could not be anything but one of the branches of the 
 Shari, and that the hypothesis of its turning northwards, and 
 flowing into the Ghazal, was to be refuted. The refutation was a 
 logical, but hasty one. It was the result of information given him 
 by Arabs, who, indifferent to everything concerning study and 
 science, took a delight in giving particulars in accordance with 
 the presumed wishes of the inquirer. 
 
 " According to every probability," Schweinfurth adds, " the 
 Welle cannot be the eastern branch of the Shari river, which 
 Major Denham saw in the year 1824, for the reason that the bulk 
 of water in that branch is about 85,000 ciibic feet, whilst the 
 Welle does not carry more than 60,000." According to him, the 
 
 ^
 
 THE WELLE-MAKUA. 155 
 
 Welle is the upper part of the Shari, and precisely the eastern 
 branch, which Barth reached in 1852, and which might easily have 
 been identified with the river of the Mambettu, since in its course 
 it is fed by affluents flowing from the south. 
 
 Science helped him in his conclusions, and gave him proofs of 
 their exactness. Any doubt that he entertained as to the identity 
 of the Welle with a branch of the Shari, was removed by the fact 
 that Barth had certain knowledge of this river at o'' latitude N., 
 by the name of the Kubanda, and that on its banks grew the kumha 
 (Xilopia cthiopica) as it does also on the shores of the Welle, 
 where it is called by the Sandeh kumbo, the pepper tree. 
 
 Eeasoning in this manner, and always finding fresh arguments 
 favourable to his theory, and not willing to admit that the Shari 
 can receive affluents from its northern banks on account of the 
 conformation of the country, he concludes with the query — 
 
 " If the Welle is not the Shari, whence does the latter come ? " 
 
 Almost at that same time another learned explorer, Dr. Nachtigal, 
 reached the Shari from the shores of the Mediterranean, and 
 partially discovered its hydrographic system by ascertaining the 
 contlux of its principal affluents, the Aukadebbe, the Bahr-el-Abiad 
 with its tributary Bahr-el-Ardhe, with the Shari ; in consequence 
 of these discoveries the hypothesis of the Welle-Shari was 
 dropped. 
 
 Nachtigal made his deductions, and relying upon the details 
 supplied to him by his Darfur servants — information which was 
 similar to that which Barth and Schweinfurth had been given — 
 identifying the Kubanda with the Kuta river, he came to the con- 
 clusion that the lower course of the Welle was but the upper part of 
 the Kuta. In this instance the existence of the Jcumho was asserted, 
 as well as that of tribes on its banks, who were dressed in white, 
 and prayed on their knees, turning to the east. 
 
 But if the people of the Lower \Velle were Mohammedan, the 
 inhabitants of Baghirmi, Bornu, and other countries near the 
 river were also of the same religion, and had been so for centuries. 
 It is a well-known fact that for some time Arab trading expeditions 
 had crossed the country, not only as far as the Welle-Obangi, but 
 even to the Congo. 
 
 The two illustrious explorers were engaged in a scientific dis- 
 cussion, which was brought before the Paris Congress, 1875, and 
 occupied one of their meetings, without throwing any fresh light 
 upon the intricate question. 
 
 At last, Stanley's exrijloration of the Congo confirmed the existence 
 of the great curve of that river (guessed by Tucke}') up to 2° lat. N., 
 and opened the way to a definite solution of the problem. 
 
 Neither the Kubanda nor Kuta river, flowing westward, and 
 explored at 3° lat. N., nor the Aruwimi — as Stanley declares — can 
 be identified as the Welle. However, the Obangi, explored by
 
 156 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 Grenfell and the Belgian officers, is tlie same as the Makua, visited 
 as far as All Xobbo by Junker, and identical with the river Welle, 
 discovered by Schweinfurth. 
 
 We have, therefore, a great river called Obi, Kibali, Makua, 
 
 Welle, Dua, and Obangi, according to the countiy it runs through, 
 
 and which carries its tribute of water to the Congo. It has just 
 
 ^, been remarked that the western part of this river has been visited 
 
 for centuries by Mussulmans, trading in ivory and slaves. 
 
 The various suppositions on the course of this river which have 
 been entertained by such competent men as Schweinfurth, Kachtigal, 
 and Stanley, being found fallacious or defective, prove how arduous 
 and complex the hydrographic and orographic systems of Central 
 Africa are. 
 
 It is absolutely necessaiy, therefore, in exploring the country, 
 to avoid being misled by superficial deductions, and less still to 
 rely upon people like the Arabs, who are ignorant and interested 
 in hiding the truth and placing obstacles in the way of explorers. 
 
 It is very difficult to form an idea of the systems of the African 
 rivers, as they are complicated and confused on account of the 
 absence of marked orographic systems, as in Europe, Asia, and 
 America, where chains of mountains clearly divide the various 
 hydrographic systems into distinct basins. In fact, if we take into 
 consideration the watersheds of the most important rivers of Africa, 
 they appear to us so imperfectly defined that we may easily be 
 induced to err. 
 
 Cameron, studying the watershed of the affluent rivers of the 
 Zambesi and Congo at 12' lat. S., after he had been home for some 
 time, if I am not mistaken, revealed a theory of his own for estab- 
 lishing a way of communication between these two rivers ; and 
 this proves that their respective sources are at about the same level, 
 and that no obstacle separates them. 
 
 If the water-parting between the Nile and Congo is considered, 
 the same thing occurs ; their affluent rivers flow from a very low 
 •table-land, and may easily be erroneously classified, if the explorer 
 be not very accurate and patient in his researches. 
 
 The work so ably done by our friend Junker deserves praise, 
 and is perfectly reliable for all that concerns the rivers he has 
 explored. The last explorations of Captains Roget and Becker 
 throw the longed-for light on the problem concerning the river 
 Welle-Makua. 
 
 From Itembo on the Congo, Capt. Roget followed the course of 
 Grenfell's Itimbiri river, and, crossing it, reached the Welle at a 
 short distance from Ali Kobbo, where he established a mihtary 
 post of the Congo State, with Lieut. Milz as commander of a 
 small garrison. 
 
 Capt. Becker, starting from Yambuya, went up the navigable 
 part of. the Aruwimi river, took a N.N.W. direction, and then
 
 THE WELLE-MAKUA. 
 
 157 
 
 crossed the rivers Lulu and Itimbiri, called also Loika, Rubi or 
 Lubi. 
 
 A little below the Timda rapids, where the missionary Grenfell 
 stopped in 188 1, the Itimbiri receives the Uiketti (called by Junker, 
 Rikitti), a river which at first flowing from west to east, soon 
 after runs southwards to the Itimbiri. 
 
 Where Captain Becker left the Riketti, it was about 16-5 feet 
 (50 metres) wide, and navigable for boats. The two Belgian 
 
 DR. JLXKER. 
 
 explorers accomplished their journey through thick forests, which, 
 as they drew near the Welle-Makua, became thinner, with gaps 
 here and there. 
 
 Captain Becker's journey from the Aruwimi to the Welle-Makua 
 occupied twenty-four days. 
 
 The source of the Welle is on the range of mountains rising to 
 the west of Wadelai, at about 62 miles (100 kilometres) from that
 
 158 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 place. It flows in a N.N.W. direction through the Kalika country, 
 and then turning to the west crosses the region of the Loggo 
 where it assumes the name of Obi, and passing through the 
 country inhabited by the Sandeh tribe, after having touched 
 Mambettu-land, it is called Kibali. The Sandeh, however, dis- 
 tinguish it for the most part by the one name ]\Iakua. The river 
 at this point has a considerable flow of water, and runs between 
 high banks, in a tortuous manner, but later on, after widening and 
 forming small islands, influenced by the land, it becomes, in 
 certain places, very much narrower. Its left bank is almost con- 
 tinually lined with forests, whilst the opposite one often opens into 
 extensive plains. As far as lugabeto it flows N.N.W. , turning 
 then to the west, and, resuming its original direction, it forms a well 
 defined curve which reaches its highest point near Madungule. 
 
 It receives the waters of numerous other streams, among which 
 are the Ubo, the Gadda, the Bomokandi, the Blima, the Nava, the 
 Dongu, the Duru, the Kapili, and some smaller ones of quite 
 secondary importance, such as the Netuko, the Vavu, the Klivo, 
 the Babuto, the Boquara, and the Mbneri. These latter only 
 carry quantities of water in the rainy season, when they are 
 inhabited by numerous crocodiles and hippopotami. The height 
 of the river at its source is about 4250 feet (1300 metres) above 
 the level of the sea ; at the junction with the river Sir, 3925- 
 feet (1200 metres) ; at the mouth of the Dongu, according to Dr. 
 Emin, 2325 feet (710 metres); at the conflux with the Gadda, 
 2225 feet (680 metres) ; and at about 87 miles (80 kilometres) 
 below the Gadda it is 2050 feet (630 metres). At Ali Kobbo, 
 Junker found its height to be 1450 feet (440 metres), and 930 
 feet (283 metres) at the mouth of the Obangi on the Congo. 
 
 When we compare and study these data, we find that the 
 Welle-Makua has a fall of 2500 feet (760 metres) in a course of 
 about 635 miles (1025 kilometres), and has a fall of about 3300 
 feet (1000 metres) in its total length of about 1300 miles (2100 
 kilometres). 
 
 Captain Becker gives the width of the Welle at Ali Kobbo as- 
 5000 feet (1500 metres). There are no cataracts or rapids until 
 the arc formed by the river is reached. 
 
 Scattered over the river are numerous small islands, especially 
 at the points where the current is increased by the waters of its 
 tributaries. 
 
 There are boats on the Welle-Makua, but the communications 
 between the various countries are very limited, on account of the 
 rivaliy of the different tribes, ever ready to degenerate into a 
 sanguinary war. 
 
 In its long course the Welle is fed and rendered a river of 
 considerable importance by many streams, conspicuous for their 
 fulness of water, especially those flowing from the northern region ;.
 
 THE WELLE-MAKUA. 159 
 
 besides the Dongu, we have the Durii and Kapili rivers, which 
 flowing from the Baginse watershed in a south-west direction, join 
 the Welle at a short distance from each other, and a little above 
 the point of conflux of the Gadda. The Mbruole, which rises in 
 the Wando territory, and the Guba flowing from the heio-hts of 
 Ndoruma, are short streams that join the Welle-Makua in its great 
 arc opposite the Abarambo territory. The Opi and the Mbomu 
 have their origin in the same mountainous region ; they flow to 
 the south-west, and after having received the waters of several 
 small rivers, the first named joins the Welle in the Embatta 
 country, and the second amongst the Addiggi. 
 
 On the south bank the Welle receives the rivers Ubo, Gadda 
 Bomokandi, Blima and Nava. The two first named, which are 
 of no great importance, flow from the Bomokandi-Makua 
 watershed, after being joined by several small streams, which 
 principally flow during the rainy season into the Makua. Much 
 more important is the Bomokandi, the source of which is in the 
 same region as that of the Welle-Makua. It flows throuo-h the 
 Mege, Niapu, and Sandeh countries, and receives the waters of 
 the Nala, Teli, and Poko, which flow from the gi'oup of mountains 
 Ambambula and of the Makongo river, the source of which is on 
 the table-land of the region inhabited by the Abisanga tribe. 
 
 The Bomokandi joins the Welle at about 62 miles (100 kilo- 
 metres) westward of the ferry, near Mount Mongiana. The orio-in 
 of the Blima is also in the Ambambula mountains. This river flows 
 parallel with the Bomokandi, and meets the Welle near the con- 
 fluence of that river with the Opi. 
 
 The river Nava, which has a common source with the Blima, is 
 an aflluent of the Congo, and the upper course of the Itimbiri. 
 
 The country comprised in the upper course of the tributary 
 rivers of the Makua does not present any striking irregularity of 
 configuration. The main lines, characteristic of this region are 
 uniform, with scarcely any perceptible undulations; valleys are 
 rare, and the isolated mountains are of no great height. Numbers 
 of small streams and frequent marshes form the characteristics of 
 this region. 
 
 Vegetation here is strong and imposing ; forests, centuries old, iL=> 
 are crowded with various species of trees without the monotony of 
 uniformity ; the large rich meadows ; the small portions of dry 
 land ; the galleries overhanging the watercourses formed by the 
 intricate twining of the liannes that are wedded to the largest 
 trees; compact sjroves ; amidst all this natural beauty and exuber- 
 ance of life, smile brilliantly coloured flowers, but mixed with 
 sharp, thorny vegetation, showing nature in its infancy, at once 
 wild, savage, and beautiful, in a state of complete wilderness. 
 
 The fertility of the soil is increased by the abundance of water Jl. 
 which flows, regulated by the laws of Providence, for months and
 
 i6o 
 
 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 months uninterruptedly. Small woods of banana trees, oil palms, 
 Urostigiiia Iwtschyana, fields of Indian millet, Meusine coracana, 
 Helmia hulhifera, manioc, sweet potatoes, beans, and tobacco, catch 
 the eye of the traveller at each break in the darkness of the forest. 
 In the daytime this luxuriant vegetation is enlivened by the 
 more or less rapid flight of beautiful birds, and by the capricious 
 flitting of variously coloured and unknown species of butterflies. 
 
 During the night, on the contrary, the deep silence is broken by 
 the roars of wild beasts wandering about the country to the great 
 danger of man and small animals. 
 
 Lions,* leopards, t and hyenas!}: are very common, and prove the 
 abundance of other animals that form their food, such as buSaloes, 
 antelopes, and gazelles. 
 
 The natives take wild animals by means of traps dug in the 
 earth cleverly concealed with grass, and 
 they also openly attack them in bodies. 
 
 The use of lion and leopard skins is a 
 royal prerogative. 
 
 Dogs§ are numerous everywhere; in 
 every hut, and the enclosures reserved for 
 the sports of the chiefs. 
 
 Goats of a good breed are reared by the 
 natives, especially by the Monfu people, 
 who have strong and prolific animals. 
 Cattle cannot be successfully reared by 
 the Mambettu on account of a fly called tsetse, the stings of which 
 cause death ; but, on the other hand, people are not tormented with 
 fleas, which are unknown all over this region, and it is even said 
 that they are not found above 16° lat. N. 
 
 There is no salt ; and as a svibstitute for it the natives manufac- 
 ture a substance which they obtain by filtering a solution of ashes 
 of banana, aquatic plants, and palm leaves. 
 
 The Mabode people do an immense trade in this substance, which 
 they obtain from the herbs growing in the numerous marshes of 
 their country. 
 
 Amongst the metals, iron is found in greater or less quantities 
 throughout the country. It is obtained from a ferruginous red 
 earth, which extends over large tracts of land. It is worked by 
 blacksmiths, who constitute a special class of labourers, and whose 
 trade is hereditary in some families. 
 
 We may say that iron is the only currency of Central Africa. 
 With it tribute is paid, and also dowries to the parents of the men's 
 wives ; in fact, all the necessaries of life are purchased with it. 
 
 TSETSE FLY. 
 
 * Called mazamhula in Mambettu, homu in Sandeh. 
 t Called coiulo in Mambettu, mamma in Sandeh. 
 J Called unga in Mambettu, zeghe in Sandeh. 
 § Called nessi in Mambettu, amjo in Sandeh.
 
 PRODUCTS AND CLIMATE. i6i 
 
 Ivory and india-rubber are the richest products of the Boraokandi 
 valley and the region south of the Makua. Rubber grows wherever 
 the soil is moist, and is used as material for the manufacture of 
 drumstick-heads, and for fixing arrow-heads. They do not culti- 
 vate this plant, which I have often seen cut down by the labourer's 
 scythe. 
 
 The supply of ivory is obtained from the immense number of 
 elephants inhabiting the forests by the rivers. The natives are 
 continually hunting them, either for their tusks (their greatest 
 wealth) or for their flesh, of which they are extremely fond, and 
 also because these pachyderms greatly damage the millet fields, 
 banana trees, sugar-canes, &c. 
 
 The climate is mild and salubrious ; the air is perfumed by rich 
 vegetation ; no miasmatic efiluvia or excessive heat afflicts human 
 existence. 
 
 In this happy climate children do not require excessive care ; 
 artistic taste is instinctive, and love for music general. Amongst 
 all this natural wealth, man's presence is w^anting, in order to 
 utilise it and introduce civilisation. But would he then be happier?
 
 ( i62 ) 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 AZANGA'S FALL AND RE-INSTATEMENT. 
 
 War against A zanga — Havash Montasser — His deeds from 1876 — Vandalism and 
 riots — Failure against Mambanga — Colonel Bachit Bey — Mambanga a fugitive 
 — A modern Alboin— " For Munza's sake " — Mambanga is an accomplice in 
 treason — Azanga betrayed — "A king may be killed, but should not be insulted 
 and degraded in this manner " — Three hundred victims — Mambanga in power 
 — Omar Erif — An impious goat — Danga, the son of Azanga — Projects — My 
 Akka's indigestion — Deplorable consequences — Azanga reinstated upon the 
 throne — Havash is discarded — Azanga oheiro ahama ne bacu — -The Mege tribe 
 ■ — Excellent maize — Naghiza, prince of the mountain — The Mege hunters — 
 Numerous tribe — Chief Kinn of Bunazza — Horiible punishment — A shooting 
 lesson — The Pakuta — Temperance of the blacks — Clever but drunkards — 
 Hunger and a piece of rope — Pitch dark — Hearing and seeing — Perception of 
 colours — The Mambettu Zenze — At Nebotto — Fine goats — Indifference to pain 
 — A new road — Old route to Mambettu — From Dongu to Tendia — The Bassia 
 Farhii — In twelve days — Riugio and his Sandeh people — An obstinate sinner 
 — Ibrahim Guruguru — At Lado. 
 
 Trumpets sounded and drums were beaten. War had been 
 declared against King Azanga, tlie lieir to the Eru dynasty and 
 power of Munza. It was the last blow struck at the liberty of the 
 Mambettu tribe, the last stone thrown at the work of destruction 
 inaugurated by the slave-traders ; strange to say, by the soldiers of 
 the Egyptian Government, under the command of an Egyptian 
 officer already incriminated for shameful deeds, at the time when 
 Hassan Pasha's troops were terribly defeated, in 1876, by the 
 Ethiopians. 
 
 Havash Montasser was sent by Emin Bey, Governor of Equatoria, 
 to ensure the safe transit of the roads in the province of Makua- 
 Bomokandi, which had until then been left in full possession of the 
 slave traders. He commenced his task by using violence towards 
 Yangara, chief of the Bambas, accusing him of being Mambanga's 
 ally, then at open war with the Arabs. The king's house was 
 changed into a military bivouac, and violation, ill-treatment, and 
 theft, which lasted for seven days, were the prelude of Havash's 
 actions. 
 
 He then attacked Mambanga, but the king's obstinate resistance 
 and valiant defence put a momentary stop to this officer's barbarous 
 conduct. If fear and uncertainty took possession of Havash 
 Montasser and made him act prudently with the enemy, his evil 
 nature and insolence caused him to lose every human feeling 
 towards his own people.
 
 DEFEAT OF MAMBANGA. 163 
 
 Dr. Junker seut the Governor at Lado a full statement of the 
 compromising position of the garrison, to which I added a brief 
 confirmation of the necessity of taking measures, because at that 
 time I was not on friendly terms with the Governor. 
 
 Emin Bey without delay despg,tched Colonel Bachit Bey — a 
 headstrong Soudanese, but a tried and valiant officer, who had been 
 decorated by the French Government for services rendered during 
 the Mexican war ; and he, by sharp movements and daring attacks 
 
 \' 
 
 KING AZANGA's residence. 
 
 defeated Mambanga's army, and thus added the horrors of victory 
 to the destruction of war. 
 
 On December 18, 1881, as I was returning from the Mege 
 country, not very far from the Bomokandi, 1 met the vanquished 
 ^King Mambanga, with a few faithful friends, wandering in search 
 of refuge. His heart and mind were full of hatred and fury, at the 
 defeat he had suffered. In the disorder and hurry of his flight 
 caused by the unexpected and sudden victory of the Egyptian
 
 1 64 TEN YEARS IN E QUA TORI A. 
 
 soldiers, he had forgotten and abandoned everything except his 
 cup, made of the skull of an Arab chief who had been his prisoner, 
 and the knife which had been used for his murder ; both of these 
 dear and precious mementoes were hanging by his side. A modern 
 Alboin, he never drank from ajay other cup. He related recent 
 events to me : how he had forsaken his son and his intention of 
 venturing amongst the Monfu. On the following morning he pro- 
 ceeded on his journey to King Azanga's residence. Afterwards I 
 was informed that, alarmed by his accidental meeting with me, and 
 afraid of being pursued by the Egyptian soldiers during the night, 
 he had sent a message to Azanga asking his permission and assent 
 to his attempting my life. I was also told that the king's answer 
 was, " I have given my word to the white man that I will ensure 
 his safe return to Tangasi, and for the sake of Munza's memory I 
 must keep my promise." These are sentiments worthy of a civilised 
 man. 
 
 The absence of Emin Bey — who had been called to Khartoum 
 by the Governor-General of the Soudan — offered Captain Havash 
 the opportunity of giving vent to his evil tendencies. He began 1 1 ^f 
 negotiating with some slave traders, and with Gambari, chief of '' 
 Bellima, and conceived the project of occupying the Mege country, 
 with Mambanga as his accomplice. The hopes of gaining a king- 
 dom was enough to banish every noble feeling from Mambanga's 
 mind, and he exerted all his energy in betraying his uncle and 
 benefactor. 
 
 August 1882. — Gambari and Yangara's soldiers encamped onil 
 the banks of the Bomokandi with a body of Arabs. Havash, either \\ 
 through fear or shame, spared his soldiers the disgrace of taking 
 part in an enterprise which they had openly declared to be 
 ignominious. 
 
 The black crowd was animated with joy ; victory must be theirs ; 
 the mainngo had given a favourable response, the hens had trium- 
 phantly issued from the river, and a squalid priest had declared 
 the righteousness of the entei-prise, and assured the mob of divine 
 approbation, saying, " The just will possess the earth." 
 
 Azanga, unprepared and astonished at the sudden danger, 
 despatched messengers with offers of submission and reverence to 
 the banner of the Crescent, and, accompanied by his brother 
 Kabrafa, his nephew Mambanga, and surrounded by his courtiers, 
 went to meet the captain, giving him rich presents and inviting 
 him to his residence. 
 
 Two days after, the invaders were encamped near Olopo. The 
 king had left in order to prepare his people to be calm and resigned^ 
 while the captain, to ensure complete success, was making final 
 arrangements with Mambanga. 
 
 King Azanga, followed by the chiefs of the principal villages, 
 and a multitude of harmless people carrying loads of grass and
 
 MAMBANGA MADE KING. 165 
 
 poles for the erection of new huts, laid rich presents at the captain's 
 feet, such as chimpanzees, monkeys, parrots, goats, shields, lances, 
 bows and arrows, and even offered him one of his daughters as a 
 token of peace and friendship. 
 
 A great feast was given ; bananas, beer, and meat were profusely- 
 distributed. At the king's table sat, besides his own son, Captain 
 Havash and the two chiefs Gambari and Yangara. The captain 
 mitigated the king's gi'ief for his curtailed power with most cordial 
 expressions and seductive promises, and, stretching out his hand 
 to Azanga, turned to retire. This was the signal agreed upon. 
 Cut-throats were ready and awaiting it, and rushed upon Azanga 
 and Kabrafa; the king seized his tromhask and stepped back, 
 putting himself into a defensive attitude, but he was soon disarmed, 
 and the unhappy father and son were made prisoners. In order to 
 prevent their escape, the forked branch of a tree was fastened round 
 their necks. 
 
 It is said that Yangara, who had been unwillingly induced to 
 join the expedition from fear, indignantly exclaimed, "A king may 
 be killed, but he should not be insulted and degraded in this 
 manner." At the same time, Mambanga and his followers, accom- 
 panied by Gambari and Yangara's people, rushed through the large 
 gates, which had been purposely left open, and, encouraged by the 
 Arabs, threw themselves upon the Mambettu and Mege people, 
 who, unarmed and unconscious of danger, were wandering about 
 the courtyards of the vast zereba, and, yelling with rage, cruelly 
 massacred as many as three hundred victims. 
 
 The flames of the burning village soon lighted up the horrible 
 scene, whilst trumpets and drums enlivened the orgies of the mag- 
 nanimous victors. 
 
 Mambanga was installed king of the country ; an Arab station 
 was erected, and the unfortunate princes were taken to Tangasi as 
 prisoners. The instant the Governor was informed of these events, 
 he recalled Captain Havash and his adviser, Omar Effendi Erif, a 
 clerk of the worst description, who, after having committed all 
 sorts of immoral and mischievous deeds at Khartoum, as well as at 
 Fashoda and other places in Equatoria, was killed by some Nuer 
 people near the river Giraffe in 1885. 
 
 He was an enemy to every honest feeling, and although not a 
 Mohammedan from conviction, his hatred for Christians was great, 
 and he looked upon negroes as mere beasts of burden. 
 
 Our apparently courteous relationship met with a very severe 
 shock one day. He was kneeling at prayers, when a wild goat 
 belonging to me butted him and knocked him down. 
 
 In November 1882 I determined to revisit those countries which 
 I had incompletely explored upon my first journey, through 
 Azanga's opposition. 
 
 The natural ferocity of the Mege people was much modified.
 
 1 66 TEN YEARS IN EQUATOR/A. 
 
 Justly irritated by the recent events, they begged for the reinstal- 
 ment of their king and for the removal of Mambanga, as, rather 
 than submit to that traitor, they were ready to fight against him. 
 They had burnt down their smaller villages and retired into large 
 zerebas surrounded by railings and ditches. The country presented 
 the aspect of a population willing to sacrifice everything for the sake 
 of independence. Their fields were devastated over a very large 
 extent of territory ; they had destroyed their roads or made them 
 difficult by cutting down trees, and on every height armed warriors 
 might be seen watching. 
 
 One day I met Danga, the eldest son of the captive king. 
 
 " I thank you," said I, " for granting me permission to visit 
 your country." 
 
 " Oh ! you are our friend ; your presence does not inspire us 
 with either fear or suspicion." 
 
 " And yet some time ago you did not seem to trust me." 
 
 " True ; but later on my father had cause to repent of his error. 
 He had listened to the mischievous insinuations of the Tangasi 
 Arabs, who described you as a dangerous spy." 
 
 " Then you are now aware that the accusation was false and 
 unjust. What do you intend doing ? " 
 
 " We intend to fight rather than yield to Mambanga." 
 
 " And if you were to be beaten ? " 
 
 " We shall leave the country, penetrate the Monfu, and settle 
 down with the Mabode, thus placing a territory between om-selves 
 and our enemies which is very difficult to cross on account of the 
 ohe* or else we shall settle on the Ambambula heights." 
 
 " For what reason would you leave such a rich country ? " 
 
 " What else are we to do ? But we hope to gain the victory." 
 
 " Supposing I give you sound advice and suggest a good idea 
 to you and assist you to carry it out, would you trust me and 
 follow my advice ? " 
 
 "Speak," said he, "I am all attention; but am afraid there is 
 no alternative." 
 
 " Well, listen ; you should go to the chief of the Arabs." 
 
 " Never ! He would have me executed." 
 
 " I tell you he would not. 1 can guarantee that he would 
 not." 
 
 " You do not know them yet," he replied. 
 
 " Do not interrupt, and hear me to the end, and then you will 
 be able to give your ojjinion." 
 
 " Very well." 
 
 "You will go to the chief of the station, and give in your 
 
 submission to the Government, making a condition that you shall 
 
 be quite independent of Mambanga, who must only rule over 
 
 his own Abisanga. You will declare yourself ready to supply 
 
 * Subterranean streams, wliich are often very dangerous to unwary travellers.
 
 I ADVISE DANGA. 167 
 
 food, straw, and wood, according to the requirements of the 
 soldiery.'" 
 
 " Do you think that if I speak as you propose, they will not 
 arrest me ? " 
 
 " Certainly ; because I will go with you, and my word will be 
 accepted without hesitation. I am the Pasha's brother ; he does 
 not wish any injustice to be done, and when he receives my letter 
 he will release youi* father, and reinstate him as chief of your 
 country." 
 
 '' When shall we go to the station ?" 
 
 "To-morrow, if you like." 
 
 " Very well, to-morrow." 
 
 To the great satisfaction of my poor Akka, the supper that 
 evening was a rich one. Danga, restored to hope, had sent an. 
 abundant supply of food. 
 
 At that time, on account of the povei'ty into which the country 
 had been thrown, it was not easy to find food to satisfy our 
 hunger, and we had then been without any for more than twenty- 
 four hours. My Akango had complained of being hungry during 
 our morning march. 
 
 "Have I eaten anything? '" said I, to encourage him. "Cheer 
 up ; this evening Danga will let us have plenty to eat." 
 
 That night, in spite of the warnings I and others had given 
 him to eat moderately, he escaped my vigilance, and satisfied his 
 voracity (one of the characteristics of his race). He consequently 
 suffered from a painful indigestion. Lying close to a large fire, 
 he kept moaning and groaning for a good part of the night till 
 he fell asleep. Next morning we were obliged to leave him be- 
 hind, to await my return from my expedition with Danga, as his 
 right thigh and leg were severely burnt. 
 
 Emin Bey later on reinstalled Danga's father as chief of the 
 tribe, and sentenced Mambanga to death. 
 
 Negroes are just as noisy and riotous in their dances and songs 
 of joy as they are sad and plaintive in those with which they mouni 
 their dead, or express sorrow for absent or distressed friends. In 
 the darkness of night the sous of Azanga and an assembly of people 
 were gathered round a blazing fire, accompanying their song of 
 grief for the captive king by mandolines. It was a sad memento, 
 which vividly reminded those people of their lost monarch, and 
 inspired the wish for his return. Azanga oheiro ahama ne bacii ; 
 metica se messia: Pa pandit andonzi endria tua* 
 
 We heard this sad song repeated every evening at whatever 
 village we were staying. 
 
 The Mege may be considered as part of the Mambettu tribe, 
 having adopted the language and habits of their conquerors. In 
 
 * Azanga is a prisoner ; why does lie not return to his country ? What can 
 we do without him ? Oh, if he were to die, our grief would be endless.
 
 1 68 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 spite of their warlike qualities, they were conquered and subdued 
 during the reigns of Tukl^a and Munza, and being reduced to the 
 condition of a subjected population, were considered as an inferior 
 race, and hunted to supply the slave trade or to pander to the 
 anthropophagous taste of their masters. Mistrust mixed with 
 ferocity is obvious in every act of their existence at the present 
 day. 
 
 The colour of their skin is very dark. They are thickly built, 
 with coarse features and dilated nostrils. They wear their hair 
 done up in plaits. As hunters of elephants and wild beasts they 
 have no rivals, whilst only the Akka people can boast of sui'passing 
 them in archery. They use neither shield nor lance ; these are 
 arms reserved for their chiefs and the Mambettu people. On 
 account of the rich crops of bananas, their principal article of food, 
 they are not much addicted to agriculture. A kind of maize, called 
 after them micgc, which they carefully keep, is famous also among 
 the Sandeh people. They give special attention to the cultivation 
 and preparation of tobacco, which is very aromatic. 
 
 The territory is very similar to that of the Sandeh, and presents 
 no difference in its products. It is situated on the declivity of the 
 Ambambula mountains — where, among numerous Maigo, colonies 
 of Akka are found, and Prince Naghiza, a grand-nephew of Munza, 
 who is blind in one eye, was their ruler. 
 
 From those smiling mountains, beautiful and blessed with balmy 
 air, the rivers Teli, Poko, Blima, Nava, Bungu, and Nosso descend. 
 Walking through the roads in this countiy, especially at night, is 
 very disagreeable and often dangerous, owing to the great number 
 of traps set for wild animals, principally for leopards. These 
 consist of branches bent in the shape of a bow, and of other snares. 
 It is always advisable to be preceded by an experienced guide who 
 knows how to unfasten the traps that are to be met with on the 
 path pursued. 
 
 The Mege tribe inhabit a long stretch of country, which, accord- 
 ing to what I understood, extends a long way to the south-west. 
 It is divided into several districts, in which various tribes reside, 
 who are often at war with one another in spite of their common 
 origin. Among these are the Mabica, Mambu, Mango, Maboli, 
 Mac dine, Mapaia, Mambunga, Mele, Mapau, Madigo, Abui, Ambala, 
 Nemovome, Ecube, Madula, Mambo, Mambiu, Magiabe, Epopa, 
 Magigo, and Niapu.* These names are those of distinct groups of 
 the Mege population, ruled by chiefs dependent on the several 
 princes. 
 
 When I left Danga, I visited Chief Kinn in his residence at 
 Bunazza. He was an exceedingly robust man, of a suspicious 
 nature. From the first he made all sorts of objections to my enter- 
 
 * The tribes Mege-Niapu are quite distinct from the Niapu mentioned when 
 speaking of the Mambettu people.
 
 THE FIRST SHOT. 
 
 169 
 
 ing his kingdom, but he granted me permission at last, after having 
 kept me waiting for a very long while, during which I had to exert 
 all my patience, the annoyance of which I cannot forget. Finally 
 he admitted me to his presence, and I well remember my first night 
 there. 
 
 During the hours which I should have preferred devoting to rest, 
 I heard (not very far from my hut) a mournful and agonised wailing. 
 In the morning I was told that it was the lamentation of one of the 
 chief's wives, who, having been detected in flagrant infidelity, had 
 been stabbed by her husband in several places, and tortured with a 
 knife. 
 
 The chief was a very inquisitive man, and anxious to see and 
 know everything. He was enthusiastic about my gun, in a moi'e 
 
 CHIEF KINN FIRES MY RIFLE. 
 
 earnest than pleasing manner, and was continually asking me to 
 fire it. " Try to fire my gun," I said to him one day, at the same 
 time handing him my Winchester rifle. At first he could not make 
 up his mind to accept my oSer ; then, through pride or curiosity, 
 he at last took the weapon with ease, and lifted it to his shoulder. 
 I was obliged to help him in the great enterprise, and, after 
 suggestions, warnings, and repeated explanations, the gun went 
 off. The poor fellow dropped the weapon, his arms hanging by his 
 sides, his lips trembling, and eyes wide open, staring into space ; 
 he seemed more dead than alive. I feared that I had been ill- 
 advised in what I had done, and a sudden chill seized me, as it is 
 so easy to compromise oneself in those countries. However, I 
 smiled at him, took both his hands, and made him drink some 
 water, and at last he laughed at his strange behaviour, and, with
 
 1 7 o TEN YEARS IN E QUA TORI A. 
 
 an uncertain voice, which became stronger little by little, he begged 
 me to fire my gun again. I did not hesitate to administer this 
 medicine, and my patient quite recovered shortly afterwards, and 
 insisted upon again attempting to fire the rifle. 
 
 In a short time a few shots made a hero of him. His strong 
 will had triumphed over the fright produced by the adventure, and 
 conquered his natural weakness. 
 
 I have seen the Mege and Sandeh, and sometimes also the 
 Mambettu people, use a kind of bread made of maize flour, called 
 by them ixumta. The maize is crushed in a mortar when moist,, 
 instead of being ground between two stones, as is the general 
 custom. They shape the wet paste into loaves, which they wrap 
 up in banana leaves, and then boil in water or bake in the fire. 
 Pacuta prepared in this manner has a pleasant flavour, and will 
 keep good for several days. A± the time when the maize is nearly 
 ripe they pound it in a mortar — a custom due to the imperfect 
 means of grinding at their disposal, with which it would be difiicult 
 to reduce maize to flour if it were ripe and dry — and make it into 
 a kind of porridge. 
 
 At places of amusement or at other meetings, and at any hour, 
 ears of maize, toasted or boiled, are offered to their guests, accord- 
 ing to etiquette. 
 
 The blacks are generally very temperate at meals. A few bananas, 
 some sweet potatoes, and herbs seasoned with grease constitute their 
 frugal repast. Meat and fish are not their daily or ordinary food, 
 but are exceptionally used in the case of abundance. 
 
 It is in the use of beverages that the black shows his tendency 
 to debauchery. To drink deeply is considered a sign of strength 
 and bravery. A chief must know how to drink : he must get 
 drunk often and thoroughly. This habit is one of the causes of 
 frequent riots and hatred between indi^dduals and families of the 
 same tribe. 
 
 Both joy and sorrow have their respective orgies. However, 
 in spite of this tendency — a natural consequence of their wild 
 temperament — these people endure toil and hunger without utter- 
 ing a word of complaint, and are abstemious when called on to render 
 services in compliance with their wish. 
 
 By means of a rope, which they tie tightly round their waist, 
 negroes abate the pangs of hunger. 
 
 I left Bunazza, the residence of Kinn, by night, in order to 
 travel with some messengers that the chief was sending to Danga. 
 Thick clouds covered the moon, thus making the night horribly 
 dark. 
 
 Hell's dunnest gloom, or night unlustrous, dark, 
 Of every planet 'reft, and pall'd in clouds. 
 
 (Dante, Purgatory, Canto xvi.) 
 
 I was walking with great difficulty, and was struck by the assur-
 
 NEGRO KEENNESS OF SIGHT. 171 
 
 ance with which my companions proceeded on such a bad road. 
 They made me think that their sight was not affected by darkness, 
 which as far as I was concerned was total. Hearing and seeing are 
 perfectly developed senses of the savages. 
 
 Frequent and unforeseen dangers, difficulties of the road, and 
 the observation they always give to the habits of the wild animals 
 round them, are certainly the means of developing and perfecting 
 their natural powers ; and yet, if we are to judge of the perfec- 
 tion of their sight (absolutely perfect as far as acuteness is con- 
 cerned) by the words with which they express the impressions re- 
 ceived on the retina of their eyes, we find that the gradation of 
 colour only consists to them of three — white, red, and black.* They 
 are affected by very few diseases of the eye, and even these are 
 very slight. 
 
 I visited Zeuze, a kind and polite Mambettu chief, proud of the 
 greatness of his dynasty. Being a friend of Azanga, he felt sorry 
 for his deposition from the throne ; but he was still more a friend 
 to himself and his own interests. I stopped one day only at his 
 residence, and the next I was on my way through groves of 
 bananas and fields of manioc, and over slight undulations of ground 
 to Nebotto's village, where I arrived on the afternoon of the day 
 following. 
 
 Nebotto was an aged and very fat man, with coarse features, 
 rough manners, and rather resembling a shepherd than a king. 
 By his Mege-Mapau subjects he was accused of being extremely 
 rapacious. He was very wealthy in cattle, which he carefully 
 bred for trading by exchange, especially with the Maigo tribe. 
 The breed of his goats was the same as that which is found in 
 Monfu, whence they were introduced into this country. They are 
 large and elegant, and have turned-np noses and short bright black 
 hair, and are easily fattened to an extraordinary size. 
 
 One morning as I was returning from a short excursion made to 
 obtain some of the very beautiful birds that are found there, on 
 hedges and in the high grass, I came upon a small crowd of 
 people assembled at the entrance of a little village, and, induced 
 lay curiosity, I stopped to see what was going on, and to my 
 astonishment perceived that a surgical operation was being per- 
 formed. The patient was an ugly, wrinkled, and aged Monfu 
 woman ; her right hand was dreadfully swollen, and the skilful and 
 courageous surgeon, armed with a small knife, was inflicting long 
 cuts on it, while black and infected blood was freely flowing from 
 the wounds. The old woman was firmly holding her hand in the 
 proper position, as there was no assistant to do so, and calmly 
 
 * The Mambettu say moohu, mhainba, meccu. 
 ,, Sandeh ,, ^^Hssi'e, zamba, hie. 
 
 „ Dinka ,, echicio, atir, ascltim. 
 
 „ Moru „ onye, oca, oni. 
 
 „ Walegga „ auau, oromu, atiati.
 
 172 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 smoking her pipe. Such indifference whilst in pain, which surely 
 must have been very great, was astonishing. Can it be true, as 
 it has been asserted, that negroes are endowed with less sensitive- 
 ness to pain ? 
 
 Slave traders and ivory merchants were the first to attempt 
 excursions in the Makua country. Their depots were to the south 
 of the Bahr-el-Ghazal, or at Ayak on the Rohl river. The road 
 which the first of them followed was on the north side of the Nile- 
 Congo watershed, across the countries of the Sere, Bellanda, and 
 Babuker, and thence to Wando and Guruguru — by which name 
 they used to call Mambettu-land. On leaving Ayak, caravans used 
 to cross the Bongo territory, as far as the country inhabited by the 
 Babuker tribe, and thence through the valleys of the Kapili and 
 Duru rivers to the Makua ; but later on Abd-el-Ssamath took 
 possession of that road. The Ayak merchants were compelled to 
 vary their itinerary, and reach the Sandeh region through the 
 countries of the Moru and Abaka tribes, instead of that inhabited 
 by the Bongo. 
 
 The habit of using a well-known road, and the relative security 
 that it afforded, was the reason that between Lado and the Mam- 
 bettu tribes communication was kept up by the Makraka road, 
 through the Abaka tribes, where the old road was again taken. 
 The journey was thus very much lengthened, and in the season of 
 the rains became a difficult and painful one, scattered over as it 
 was with bogs, especially in the region of the Abaka. 
 
 I had for a long time conceived the idea of a new road through 
 Lado not yet explored. I had not long to wait for the opportunity 
 of trying it. Emin Bey (who had asked me long before to pay 
 him a visit at Lado) wrote to say that a steamer was soon ^o arrive 
 from Khartoum, and (February 1883) I resolved to set out. 
 
 The watershed between the affluents of the Nile and those of the 
 Dongu, formed by the heights which extend from Ndirfi towards 
 Tomaya and Gabologgo, has near Tendia a convenient depression 
 for passing into the territories of the Makraka. 
 
 By following the valley of the Dongu and the banks of that 
 river as far as Ba, and then taking a direction to the north-east, 
 one reaches the Tendia table-land. The road is easy and good, and 
 not broken by swamps or large rivers. The Garamba, which can 
 be forded in the upper part of its course, is the largest stream. 
 Meadows of long grass cover the country, and are inhabited by 
 numerous buffaloes and antelopes. The native villages are sur- 
 rounded by large and rich fields of Indian millet and manioc. 
 Trees o^ Bassia Parhii grow everywhere. The fruit of this plant is 
 of a delicate taste, and is used by the natives to prepare a vegetable 
 grease, much used among them. The population on the right bank 
 of the Uongu is composed of Sandeh people ; a small colony of 
 Madi and Abukaya inhabiting the upper Garamba valley.
 
 THE CHIEF RING 10. 173 
 
 Sandeh and Loggo people, whose language and customs are in 
 affinity with the Monfu, dwell on the left bank of the Dongu. 
 
 From the Kibali the land gradually rises without abrupt eleva- 
 tions from 2200 feet (670 metres) above the level of the sea, to 
 2650 feet (810 metres) at Tendia, where we arrived on the twelfth 
 day after our departure from Tangasi. 
 
 We had good weather, and found the ground dry, and little 
 water in the rivers. 
 
 At Kabayendy I was met by Ringio, the chief of the Bombe, 
 thus called by the Sandeh of this place. He had been an employe 
 with Petherick, and afterwards entered the service of the Egyptian 
 Government. Endowed witli an iron hand and a great amount of 
 good sense, he had succeeded in disciplining his people, who were 
 not only naturally inclined to freedom, but also to disorder. 
 
 During Gordon's government, he lent his services, with four 
 thousand workmen and carriers, for carrying the sections of the 
 two steamers, Klicclive and Nyanza, from Muggi to Dufile. 
 
 He was a genial man, and his manners were courteous and 
 respectful. Wando, the great chief of the Sandeh of the West, 
 had paid him a visit a short time previously, and he told me, 
 evidently with great pleasure, of the reluctance of the chief to 
 change his old customs and habits. " Imagine," said he ; " one 
 day he told me that he could not stay any longer with me, because 
 the food at my table did not agree with him." " How can you be 
 dissatisfied with the food I give you ? " I replied. " Goats, bullocks, 
 and fowls are killed every day in your honour." 
 
 '■' Oh, my dear friend," he answered, with a deep sigh, " after 
 abstaining so long from it, I am burning with the desire to eat 
 human flesh." 
 
 " But these things are no longer done in Makraka, and I could 
 not tolerate them if they were." 
 
 At Wando, the chief Arab, Ibrahim Mohammed, surnamed 
 Guruguru, loaded me with civilities ; Emin Bey, the Governor, had 
 informed him of my intended arrival, and he was more polite and 
 attentive to me than I can describe. 
 
 Two days after (March 20, 1883), a letter from Emin informed 
 me of the arrival of the steamer Telahuin, and I immediately left 
 for Lado.
 
 ( 174 ) 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 DR. EMIN'S REPORT. 
 
 Dr. Emin Pasha — Gordon's agent — In Uganda and Unyoro — Governor of Lado — 
 His mode of government — Difficulties to overcome — His special interest and 
 care for the cultivation of land — Study of the country under his governorship 
 — His qualities and faults — Equatoria according to Emin's report — Ivory — 
 Table of the export of ivory from 1853 to 1879 — Ostrich feathers — Honey and 
 wax — Skins and furs — Living animals — Vegetable produce — Grain — Vegetable 
 oils — Gums and resins — Tamarinds — Sugar-canes — Cotton — Tobacco — Coffee — 
 Nutmegs — Iron — July 11, 1882, at Alexandria — Fall of the Khedive's prestige 
 — Egyptian colonels — Arabi — Mohammedans and Christians — Tel-el-Kebir— 
 Comical conclusion of the drama — The news from the Soudan casts a sinister 
 light — The steamer Telahuin returns to Khartoum — " Nor had I alone this 
 hope" — Dr. Eraldo Dabbene — On a journey with Emin — The security of the 
 Dongu road assured — Compulsory and disagreeable stoppages — Two hostages 
 — Peace is made — A biblical donkey — The good Yangara — "Every good 
 action deserves a reward" — Emin in Mambettu-land — Revolution in the Rohl 
 region. 
 
 In the year 1876, Di\ Edward Schnitzer, under the name of Emin 
 Effendi, entered the service of the Egyptian Government and was 
 sent to Equatoria as a medical man at the order of General 
 Gordon, who had been in those provinces since 1874 as a Mudir or 
 Governor. 
 
 Emin Effendi was appointed chief on the Sanitary Service and 
 head of the Board of Managers ; later on, he was sent on a special 
 mission to the Kings of Uganda and Unyoro. 
 
 The zeal and intelligence he showed on this occasion won for 
 him Gordon's esteem and respect, and in J 8 78, when the General 
 was appointed Governor of the Egyptian Soudan, he entrusted him 
 with the government of the Mudirate. The wise steps he took for 
 the reorganisation of the country were crowned with success : he 
 regulated the administrations, suppressed inveterate abuses, and 
 watched over the development of the best interests of the province. 
 Being surrounded by worthless men of known dishonesty, he 
 succeeded, by constant vigilance and tact, in keeping the power of 
 his officials within certain bounds and restraining as much as 
 possible their evil influence. 
 
 As the Egyptian Government used to consider Lado a peniten- 
 tiary colony of Egypt and the Soudan, Emin Effendi was prevented 
 from dismissing (as he would have liked) those officials whose con- 
 duct was culpable, and substituting able and trustworthy ones.
 
 EMIN PASHA. 
 
 175 
 
 In obedience to Gordon who had ordered that all stations on the 
 Victoria Nile should be abandoned, Dr. Schnitzer directed his 
 
 EMIN PASHA. 
 
 special attention to the northern parts of the provinces, as he had 
 also been ordered to do by Gessi, Governor-General of Bahr-el-
 
 176 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 • Ghazal and Equatoria, who limited the territory over which 
 Government influence was to extend, to Wadelai. 
 
 It was at Makraka, in the country of the Bari tribe, and in 
 Mambettu-land that his ideas of progressive civilisation were first 
 carried out. By frequent excursions through the country and by 
 the union of knowledge with discrimination he was personally 
 enabled to learn the people's requirements, the difficulties to be 
 surmounted, and the best means to use for the enterprise ; but 
 many were the obstacles placed in his way, such as the vast extent 
 of territory, the dishonesty of the public officials, and the continued 
 refusal of the Central Government to comply with his applications 
 and proposals. 
 
 The primary causes of the revolution which convulsed the 
 Egjqotian possessions and Equatoria must be traced to the occult 
 and deleterious intrigues which had been destroying the authority 
 of the State for some time, and alienating from it all good feeling 
 on the part of the people. The revolution found him unprepared, 
 and he was led by the course of events into doubts and errors. If 
 his province did not succumb to revolt, as others had done, we 
 must in justice allow that it was due to the prestige acquired by 
 him in developing the resources of the country, to the study of 
 which he had devoted his mind and, indeed, his life. 
 
 In Gordon's time Lado received its supply of wheat directly 
 from Khartoum. Emin Effendi, by encouraging agriculture and 
 regulating the collection of the tribute, succeeded in filling the 
 granaries with sufficient quantities of corn to meet the require- 
 ments of the province. By distributing seed of all kinds, which 
 he obtained from Egypt and Europe, he promoted the cultivation 
 of the soil ; papaw, orange and lemon trees, cotton, guava, grapes, 
 and every kind of vegetable rendered the gardens of Lado, 
 Makraka, and Kakua beautiful. He devoted the gi'eatest atten- 
 tion to the study of the soil and its riches, as well as to the opening 
 of new roads, the employment of animals for the transport of 
 goods, and the rearing of cattle ; and if events had not prevented 
 him from carrying out several useful reforms, it must be confessed 
 that he would have actually laid the foundation of the work of 
 amelioration. His serious nature and great love for natural science 
 and solitude caused him to avoid everybody's society. If not 
 proud, he was certainly self-reliant, and seemed to disdain the 
 careful study of the men who surrounded him. He believed that 
 he could attend to everything himself, and when he saw that he 
 could not alone prevent the forthcoming ruin of his province, he 
 conceived false opinions, often changed them, and thus injured 
 himself. 
 
 Equatoria is one of the richest provinces of Central Africa for 
 
 the excellence and quantity of its products, for the abundance of 
 
 • water, healthy climate, and great natural beauty. A few words
 
 THE IVOR Y TRADE. 1 7 7 
 
 about it will certainly interest our readers, and we therefore quote 
 
 the following passage from a report sent by Eniin to the Esploratorc. 
 
 ******* 
 
 " As is well known, ivory is the principal item in the ^Soudanese ^ 
 Budget; that supplied fx*om the mountainous and dry regions east 
 of the Nile is the hardest, and on this account in great demand, 
 obtaining the highest price. But^ from the period of Gordon's iPxc/ 
 administration, all the ivory was declared to be a monopoly of the 
 Government, whilst in Uganda, Unyoro, and other countries, this 
 trade is still free. 
 
 " No private enterprises for elephant hunting exist, therefore, 
 in Equatoria ; and as Arab and European sportsmen have never 
 had the courage to go as far as the Equatorial regions, the supply 
 of ivory is limited to that which the negroes gather in their hunts ^ 
 with lance and fire. 
 
 " It is owing to this, that whilst elephants are scarce in Bahr- 
 el-Ghazal, they are numerous all over the territory of the properly 
 called Equatorial province and in some places have become a public 
 calamity. 
 
 " If the supply of ivory has been plentiful up to the present, we 
 must not forget that it is due to the trade established with the 
 South and Western countries far beyond the Egyptian territory ; 
 nevertheless, for some years there has been a considerable decrease 
 in its supply. 
 
 " The Equatorial provinces send about 700 cwt. of ivory pert^ 
 annum to the markets, of the average value of £30,000. 
 
 " It is difficult to say how miich is supplied by the territory 
 of Bahr-el-Ghazal, as the greatest part of the ivory sent from 
 thence to Khartoum is not the actual annual production, but 
 remnants of the old stock of late propiietors of zeribas, as Zebehr 
 Pasha, Ali Amuri, and others. The productive power of the 
 country is not to be reckoned exclusively by the supply of ivory. 
 The expenses for the management, though great, must natui-ally 
 increase with the annexation of new countries. The monopoly 
 system which is established in the Bahr-el-Abiad province, by 
 being an obstacle to the colonisation of the country, prevents a 
 regular and steady increase of the revenue from agricultural and 
 commercial sources, whilst, on the other hand, it helps to augment 
 the expenses of the country. The day will soon come, therefore, , 
 when the supply of ivory will not be sufficient to meet the heavy 
 charges. 
 
 " Hippopotamus tusks and rhinoceros horns are not yet inquired 
 
 after, but they will be when Africa is open to commerce and trade. 
 
 Both these animals are to be found everywhere in great numbers, 
 
 and if they have not been disturbed till now, it is only because 
 
 there were no buyers." 
 
 ******* 
 
 M
 
 178 
 
 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 lu order to complete the above report, I quote the following 
 table from the Ei^phrator(\ showing the export of ivory for a period 
 
 of twenty-five years, and for which we are indebted to Mr. W. 
 
 Westendarp, of the firm of H. A. Meyer, the largest European 
 house in the trade : — 
 
 Kilogrammes. Kilogrammes. 
 
 185B . . . 92,000 1867 . . . 137,000 
 
 1854 . . 149,000 18G8 . . . 95,000 
 
 1855 . . . 123,000 1869 . . . 138,000 
 
 1856 . . 79,000 1870 . . . 113,000 
 
 1857 . . . 144,000 1871 . . . 167,000 
 
 1858 . . . 202,700 1872 . . . 107,000 
 
 1859 . . . 174,000 1873 . . . 155,000 
 
 1860 . . . 154,000 1874 . . . 113,000 
 
 1861 . . 114,000 1875 . . . 166,000 
 
 1862 . . . 186,000 1876 . . . 120,000 
 
 1863 . . 115.000 1877 . . . 185,000 
 
 1864 . . . 166,000 1878 . . . 205,000 
 
 1865 . . 97,000 1879 . . . 80,000 
 
 1866 . . . 130,000 
 
 '" In the west of Bahr-el-Ghazal," writes Dr. Emin in his Report, 
 " the countiy being covered by forests, ostriches are rare, whilst in 
 the East, at Latooka, they are to be found in troops. These birds 
 are still more numerous in the vast sandy plains of the Lango* 
 country, where the natives give their feathers to the neighbouring 
 tribes in exchange for iron. 
 
 " In the large villages of the Umiro tribe, far south-east, ostrich 
 sheds are often to be seen, and in the morning these bii'ds go out 
 to feed with the oxen and donkeys, and are driven back to the 
 villages at night. Their feathers are of excellent quality, equal in 
 value to the best Kordofan feathers, aud might form a valuable 
 article of commerce. The breeding of these birds was started at 
 the stations two years ago (1881), and if the results are not satis- 
 factory, it may be on account of the youth of the captive birds, 
 which perhaps prevents their multiplication. Anyhow, these 
 experiments deserve the greatest attention. Tlie price of a young 
 ostrich is so low, aud its breeding so easy, that the capital employed 
 in the business would yield a high rate of interest. 
 
 " There is, properly speaking, no apiculture in the countries 
 inhabited by negroes. The natives hang baskets on the top of 
 isolated trees, as practised in the IMakraka and Dinka territories, 
 some of which are woven, and others made of bark, as in the 
 south. 
 
 " They generally put one basket only on each tree, but some- 
 times several, in which case they are placed far apart. 
 
 * Lango, the Galla tribe.
 
 A GRICUL TURK NOT KNO WN. 179 
 
 " The bees avail themselves of the dwellings thus provided for 
 them, and complete the business. If the natives, upon inspection, 
 find the baskets full, they expel the bees with smoke and gather 
 the honey, which varies in quality according to the locality and 
 mode of preparation. That of the Makraka and Dinka people is of 
 a dark colour, often almost black, because they melt it with fire. 
 Mountainous regions supply the best honey, which is very aromatic, 
 and as clear as water. The negroes content themselves with press- 
 ing the honey from the comb. The wax used to be thrown away, 
 being only in a few cases used for making candles ; I have never 
 seen natives eat it. The quantity of honey produced being very 
 abundant, that of wax must be equally so ; but people do not care 
 for it, and perhaps they have good reason for so doing. 
 
 " Upon several occasions, large quantities of wax were stored, 
 but it was kept in the warehouses for such a length of time, 
 for want of carriage to Khartoum, that it was totally destroyed by 
 insects. 
 
 " During 1882, only one steamer arrived in the Equatorial 
 Provinces ! If merchants were allowed to buy wax, the Govern- 
 ment would benefit by it. 
 
 " The hides of cattle slaughtered for the soldiers' food would be 
 sufficient to fill the Khartoum markets. If we add to the number 
 of those killed for the consumption of private people, and the hides, 
 which may be bought cheapl}* (especially of the Southern tribes), 
 to the sheep and goat skins, that are not used at all, they would 
 reach a wonderfully high figure. Transport would certainly raise 
 the price, but if the skins were tanned on the spot, this inconve- 
 ence would be partly remedied. 
 
 " In Central Africa, tanning materials are to be found in great 
 quantities, and of veiy good quality, and a venture in this sort of 
 business would certainly meet with success. Until the present day, 
 hides were used at the most for local and packing purposes, and no 
 useful commercial value has ever been attributed to them. The 
 reason is that they found it inconvenient to fill the Khartoum 
 market with commodities of the kind, the pretext for refusing to do 
 so being that skins brought from these regions did not have a 
 ready sale. 
 
 " Hides of buffaloes, antelopes, and giraffes may be easily pro- 
 cured. For want of buyers, these are utilised in the manufacture 
 of leather, sandals, water-skins, &c. Whips are made of long 
 strips of hippopotamus skin.* 
 
 " Furs are quite unknown. Besides large beasts of prey, such as 
 leopards, feline animals, and others, there are scattered all over the 
 country an infinite number of smaller wild beasts, such as the civet 
 cat, ichneumon, &c., the skins of which could doubtless be used 
 advantageously. A species of otter, very common in all large 
 * Now these are used for making travelling trunks, &c.
 
 I So TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 rivers, lias excellent fur, equalling that of the beaver in softness 
 and beauty. The skins and furs of several kinds of monkeys, as, 
 for instance, the colohns qucreza, the spotted skin of some antelopes, 
 the tragclaj)hus scriptus, and the alcelcqjhvs huhalis, for example ; 
 giraffe, zebra, and lycaon jnctus. All these may be had from the 
 natives for almost nothing, and in sufficient quantities to meet any 
 demand. To these we may add the skins of sheep, the long-haired 
 skins of some goats bred in the Msoga and Lur countries, which 
 will compare with any angora skin. 
 
 "■' The development of a successful cattle trade is prevented by 
 the great aversion that the natives have to parting with their 
 oxen, which are very abundant in the Southern provinces. In the 
 territory of Bahr-el-Ghazal the possession of a cow has been con- 
 sidered a great privilege for some time ; goats and sheep are also 
 scarce. The case is much better, however, in the Equatorial pro- 
 vinces, where, on account of the suppression of raids for the last 
 four years, cattle are plentiful, and a rational breeding might prove 
 a good speculation.* 
 
 " But to the east and south-east two other animals, viz., the ass 
 and the camel, deserve our attention. In all the villages of that 
 part of the vast territory inhabited by the Lango tribe which is 
 accessible to us from Akkara to Turkani, numerous herds of 
 donkeys are bred by the natives, which are only required for the 
 supply of milk. They are of medium height, with white hair above 
 their hoofs, and a broad black stripe across their shoulders ; they 
 are very strong, and experience has proved that if well fed they 
 live a long time. In the Equatorial provinces they are now being 
 used for carrying and other purposes, and are imported into Bahr- 
 el-Ghazal, where they meet a ready sale, owing to the low price 
 asked for them. 
 
 " A little farther north, among the Western Galla tribes, camels 
 are kept in herds of from five to six hundred, and are only valued 
 for their milk. It is true that the vast sandy plains of this 
 country, with few forests and ponds of salt water, are admira,bly 
 adapted to the breeding of the camel. We transported several of 
 these animals to Rejaf, where they were very useful. 
 
 " I have been aware for a long time of the great advantages that 
 would attend the introduction of tame buffaloes here, but, although 
 many of them are to be seen on the roads to Khartoum, I have been 
 unable as yet to possess one. The necessary conditions of their 
 existence — viz., heat, water, mud, and bitter graminaceous plants 
 — are so abundant in this country that these animals would supple- 
 ment the laziness of men, and could very well supplant the ox, a 
 more delicate animal, whilst female buffaloes might supply milk 
 
 * The countries of the Ghazal river, which were devastated by slave-traders, 
 were abundantly provided with cattle by Gessi, who enforced laws and regula- 
 tions wherever he gave oxen, in order to develop and preserve the breed.
 
 GRAIN AND DISTILL A TION 1 8 1 
 
 abundantly. A\'liile trade in live animals, and especially in birds, 
 is carried on with success on some parts of the Western and 
 Eastern coasts of Africa — wonderfully adapted for traffic with 
 Europe by their favourable situation — our territory, rich in all 
 sorts of animals, has not yet been thought of for this business. By 
 regulating navigation in a convenient way, the trade from here to 
 Khartoum and Berber and through the desert to Suakim would 
 present but few difficulties. 
 
 " The ever increasing requirements of the European Zoological 
 Gardens would suffice to ensure a prosperous trade." 
 
 Emin's report then passes to the vast and plentiful fields of the 
 vegetable kingdom ; the cultivation of grain on a grand scale, 
 amongst which we find dhurra (sorgitm vul(/arc), tiiahun {deusine 
 corocana), dokon {pcnicillaria s^j.), sesame {sesamum oriciitale). 
 
 "To reckon, even by approximation, the production of grain in 
 this country, would be a difficult task, but if we consider that, at 
 least up to 2' N. lat., grain forms the chief and very often the sole 
 food of the natives, and that immense quantities are used for 
 brewing merissa (the beer of this region), perhaps we can conceive 
 an idea of the great extent of corn cultivated. We must not forget 
 either that a great part is destroyed and consumed by myriads of 
 birds and voracious quadrupeds, 
 
 " The price of grain being so low leads me to think that export 
 would be profitable ; but, anyhow, it could be used for manu- 
 facturing alcohol, of which a great quantity, such as brandy and 
 liqueurs, is imported annually from Egypt by the Soudan, and 
 then, alas ! too willingly consumed. Why then could it not be 
 made in the country itself? The attempts made up to the 
 present have only yielded a worthless liquid, not fit for use, but 
 with improved systems of distillation there would certainly be 
 better results. 
 
 " Maize, from which very good alcohol may be obtained, flourishes 
 all over the country, and its cultivation is on the increase. Very 
 many other fruits, tuberiferous plants, &c., fit for the production of 
 spirits, are grown in the Soudan. 
 
 " Sir Samuel Baker succeeded in distilling brandy from sweet 
 potatoes ; and amongst the Zanzibaris settled in Uganda I found 
 that a spirit produced from bananas was greatly used. All these 
 drinks have a peculiar odour, not very agreeable, due, perhaps, to 
 their imperfect preparation. 
 
 " The attempts at cultivating wheat have as yet given unsatis- 
 factory results : the seed from Eg}'pt seems unsuitable to our 
 climate. But the mountainous region is an excellent field for ex- 
 periments, especially for the cultivation of cereals, and, undoubtedly, 
 with proper seed we should have very good results. 
 
 "As a proof of my statement I mention the cultivation of rice, 
 which already pays for the agriculturists' labour.
 
 i82 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 " In 1878 I received a small quantity of rice grown by an Arab 
 residing at Uganda, and which I used for experiments.* 
 
 *' The rice obtained was good enough, but small and of a reddish 
 colour. 
 
 " Some time after, I tried other experiments with Egyptian rice 
 sent to me by Dr. Schweinfurth and Stone Pasha, and that now 
 grown in the Soudan is not inferior to the Egyptian. Here, as 
 well as on the East coast, cultivation is limited to the stations. 
 The black population understands nothing of these new crops ; that 
 which sufficed the father satisfies the son as well. As it seldom 
 happens that negroes care to keep pet animals or birds in their 
 huts, so they seem to be wanting in horticultural aptitude. 
 
 " First amongst oleaginous vegetables is sesame, the oil of which 
 is produced in great quantities, but one-third, at least, of it is 
 wasted through the defective process of extraction. When fresh, 
 this oil is very good for cooking purposes, but after awhile it 
 becomes thick and acquires a peculiar smell similar to that of 
 walnuts. In the second place comes the oil of aracliis hypogea^ 
 which is preferable to the oil of sesame. It has a pale colour, is 
 clear, and keeps well for a long time, being perfectly free from 
 smell. It is considered the best of comestible oils. 
 
 " The arachis liypogca is largely and especially grown in the vast 
 sandy plains of the Dinka country. The Sandeh and Mambettu 
 people are extremely fond of this nut, and now its cultivation is 
 spreading eastward to Dufile, where the land is well adapted to its 
 culture. On account of the greater difficulty in the extraction of 
 oil from it, and notwithstanding the higher percentage of oil con- 
 tained in it, the quantity wasted is larger than that of sesame. 
 
 " The fact is worth mentioning, that whilst these nuts are eaten 
 with pleasure everywhere, and animals like to dig them out of 
 the ground, the oil is not used because it is supposed to cause 
 disease. 
 
 " Another oil of good quality is extracted from the hyptis spidgera, 
 which is grown everywhere on a large scale. The seeds of a small 
 gourd called omhrcke in Makraka also produce a good oil. In the 
 South-west territory the dais guinecnsis is to be found in great 
 numbers ; the fruit yields quantities of oil. In the Western lands 
 this tree grows much farther towards the north, as Lupton Bey has 
 frequently found it at 6° 42' lat. N., and 25" 20' long. E. Un- 
 doubtedly the dais could be grown here, and I am impatiently 
 expecting some seeds promised to me, in order to try its cultivation. 
 The plants which I have mentioned give liquid oils. Now I have 
 to deal with two others, from which solid fat is obtained at an 
 ordinary temperature, viz., the stcreo-spcnmim and the hassia Parkii. 
 The former gives a small quantity of gi*ease, which, owing to its 
 
 * The cultivation of rice was introduced into this country by Zanzibar Arabs, 
 and also at Uganda, with satisfactory results (Wilson, Esploratore}.
 
 VEGETABLE WEALTH. 183 
 
 smell, is only used for frictions, but from tlie fruit of the latter, 
 which is similar to a chestnut, gi*eat quantities of fat are manufac- 
 tured, and it is used for food, regardless of its peculiar smell of 
 burnt matter. This tree grows all over the countiy, and I have 
 seen large forests of it in the South-west. The samples I sent to 
 Khartoum for soap manufacture gave such good results that large 
 quantities of the gi*ease are being demanded. 
 
 " Until now, all the soap used in the Soudan has been imported 
 from Egypt, but on account of the large quantities of oil and grease 
 mentioned, a remunerative business might be established in the 
 country for the production of a large quantity of this commodity. 
 
 " Soda, having not yet been found anywhere in the Soudan, 
 must be imported from Egy]^)t, but as its price is very low, that 
 would not constitute a serious obstacle to the prosperous develop- 
 ment of a local soap factory. 
 
 " Without taking into consideration the small quantity of gum 
 Arabic that may be gathered in the acacia forests, we must first of 
 all say a few words about india-rubber. It is chiefly supplied by 
 the carpodinus acidus and the carpodinus didcis, which grow from 
 8° N. lat. towards the South almost everywhere, but principally on 
 the banks of the water-courses, on the rising ground near which 
 are extensive woods of this plant. 
 
 " Some samples obtained from trees grown here were sent to 
 Khartoum, where the merchants declared them to be excellent, 
 although parts of them contained water.* This fault may easily be 
 remedied, as it is caused by using hot water to accelerate the 
 solidification of the lacteous juice ; it would therefore only be 
 necessary to substitute a better process. The natives willingly 
 gather the rubber for a small consideration, and the number of 
 plants is large enough to give hopes of good crops for some time to 
 come. Of course, it must be distinctly understood that new plan- 
 tations of trees will be necessary in a few years in order to obviate 
 the danger of reducing the supply to niL 
 
 " The largest results have hitherto been obtained by the Mam- 
 bettu people ; but, strange enough, this rubber has been recognised 
 as inferior in quality to that from the drier country of the Dinka, 
 which is perfectly pure and odourless. Several other resins, some 
 of them scented, are waiting to be analysed, in order to test theii* 
 practical value. 
 
 " The tamarind is a very common tree, and yields fruit abun- 
 dantly. The pulp which is obtained from it is not as acid as that 
 of the Darfur tamarinds, and therefore more agreeable. Sugar- 
 canes are plentiful in the South, at Uganda, and are now grown at 
 eveiy station, and if sufficiently irrigated give stout and juicy 
 stems. Different kinds of cotton are grown in various places ; for 
 
 A sample was sent to the Societd d' Esplorazione Commercicde in Africa, and 
 the firm Pirelli Casazza & Co. declared it of good quality, but containing water.
 
 1 84 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 instance, in the Bari country there grows a gossyphnn, the seeds of 
 which, when ripe, are green, and its cotton has long fine threads. 
 Some native weavers of Dongola established a mill here, and many- 
 people earn their living by weaving the so-called darmir, a native 
 cotton stuff, well adapted to our climate. 
 
 " Unyoro and Latooka tobacco deserve especial mention. The 
 production of it naturally does not exceed the requirements of the 
 country, but it could be increased to a considerable t-xtent. 
 
 " Coffee is very plentiful in Uganda ; but as it is not exported, 
 we ought to tiy its cultivation in our mountainous districts. 
 
 " There are great crops of nutmegs in the south of the country, 
 especially in Mambettu-land. 
 
 " A clever botanist would be able to find numerous other plants 
 useful for commercial, alimentaiy, and other purposes. There is, 
 for instance, a group of plants which might be used for weaving or 
 spinning ; others give good colouring matter, and others, again, 
 tanning material, &c. 
 
 " Especially in the South, a vast and rich field is open for com- 
 merce and industry ; and let us hope, for the welfare of the country, 
 that no delay will be made in using the materials which Nature 
 offers in such abundance." 
 
 ******* 
 
 This interesting report, which was published in the Esploratore 
 and is little known in Europe, closes with a hint about iron, the 
 w sole native production of the mineral kingdom in this countiy. 
 
 .A 
 
 \\ 
 
 " Iron of good quality and in great abundance is found every- 
 where, and fused and worked, it is an article of commerce which is 
 .'^^ much sought after in the North and West ; where roughly worked 
 points of arrows and lances are used as currency and have also 
 a marketable value for procuring a wife, like oxen. 
 
 " The most skilful and artistic blacksmiths are in the South ; the 
 best are among the Mambettu and Makraka people, amongst whom 
 there are some chiefs highly reputed as workmen. I am at present 
 ignorant of the existence of other metals, besides iron, but this does 
 not at all prove that there are none ; we are rather inclined to 
 believe that great treasures of this kind are hidden under the earth, 
 principally in the East." 
 
 ******* 
 
 The news we received on the arrival of the steamer was bad. 
 Eg}'pt had become the theatre of sad events ; Alexandria had been 
 bombarded July 11, 1882; and exasperation at this had led to 
 murders in Tanta and other places. 
 
 The serio-comic revolution, which suddenly sprang up in Egypt, 
 had its first manifestation in the disagreement between two military 
 factions. Said, Viceroy of Egypt, was the first to bestow favours
 
 ARAB IS REBELLION. 185 
 
 on the fellahs, who had not previously been considered. He pro- 
 moted them ijoth in the Army and in the civil offices of the 
 Government. Ismail, his successor, ever ready and anxious to free 
 himself from dependence on the Sultan of Constantinople, raised 
 the position of the natives, who till then had been humiliated and 
 oppressed, to a still higher level. But while the Army was being 
 reinforced by the national element, the Khedivdate was daily be- 
 coming weaker, both through the so-called " control " and the joint 
 protectorate of England and France. Ismail fell and young Tewfik, 
 who succeeded him, being of a quiet temperament and scrupulous 
 sentiments, found himself powei'less to master the bitter hatred 
 which existed between Native, Turkish, and Circassian officers, and 
 that resulted in a positive advantage to the national party of the 
 Army. The contempt endured and silently restrained for so many 
 years could no longer be tolerated. Their numbers, influence, and 
 readiness to fight induced them to make repeated demonstrations 
 and mutinies, ending in a real military pronunciameuto. The 
 Alinister for War was dismissed, and three colonels, Toulba, Abd- 
 \t'l-Hashish, and Arabi, were masters of the situation. However, 
 Arabi was the leader and very soul of the movement, which, born 
 and nurtured in the barracks, speedily spread among the people. 
 The ojj position, to the Khedive and Europeans became (under the 
 pretentious form of a national movement) a war of Mussulman 
 against civilisation. It must necessarily have ended iu this manner, 
 because the idea of a fatherland and love for it are not understood 
 by Egyptian Arabs. The movement naturally degenerated into 
 religious fanaticism. 
 
 Slaughters, conflagrations, and robberies were the dreadful con- 
 sequences of the pretended revolt. The great drama had a comic 
 end when Arabi, defeated at Tel-el-Kebir — an easy victory over a 
 weak defence — appeared as a confessed culprit, and was favoured 
 with an unasked-for reprieve. 
 
 Suddenly the country became calm again, and the faithful sub- 
 jects cheered Tewfik Pasha.* 
 
 The news concerning the pertinacious Mahdist revolution in the 
 Soudan and the continual desertions and defeats of the Govern- 
 ment troops was of much more importance. The horizon shone 
 with a sinister light, threatening the near future. 
 
 On April ]4, I880, at 10 a.m., the flag which floated from the 
 military station at Lado saluted the steamer that was to sail to 
 Khartoum. The hope of an early return of that vessel made me 
 almost anxious to see it depart, nor was it I alone who cherished 
 that hope. At this time Dr. Eraldo Dabbene, a clever young man, 
 enthusiastically fond of Africa, was about to return to Italy, being 
 compelled to leave by the climate, which was unfavourable to his 
 
 * P. Perolari Malmignati : " L'Egitto senza Egiziani " (Egypt without 
 Egyptians).
 
 i86 
 
 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 health. He had visited the countries on the Nile south of Lad« •, 
 and journeyed as far as Fatiko and the country of the Shooli, 
 
 collecting insects 
 
 May 2, 1883. — I was thinking of returning to the Western 
 countries, and Emin, desirous of securing the safety of the new 
 Dongu road, and visiting Mambettu-land, asked to accompany me. 
 We reached Tendia, passing through Wandy and Ndirfi, and he 
 established a garrison of irregular soldiers there. Then we travelled 
 to Dongu, and Emin Bey, after having entered upon agi-eements 
 
 with the native chiefs, es- 
 tablished two stations there, 
 which he called Mundu and 
 Dongu. 
 
 I preceded him to Mam- 
 bettu-land ; and as I did 
 not wish to journey upon a 
 road I knew already, I de- 
 cided to visit the country bftween the Gadda and Ello rivers, in- 
 habited by a colony of Maigo. The population was large and the 
 country flourishing, with numerous villages and vast cultivations. 
 But I had scarcely reached the neighbourhood of the river CTadda 
 when my people, who preceded me, were stopped and attacked. 
 The porters dropped their burdens and fled back by the road. 
 I tried to stop them, but not a single one answered my call. I 
 hastened to the spot, and in the bushes of banana trees — surround- 
 ing the village on the river side — I found some natives hiding and 
 prepared to fight. For two days it was impossible to alter the 
 feeling of these men, as they were suspicious and excited by the
 
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 Q 
 Q 
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 O 
 
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 K 
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 O 
 
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 Pi 
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 HOSTILITY OF GANGOBU. 187 
 
 people. The chief, Gangobu, desired me in a few words to go 
 whence I came, foreigners being forbidden to visit his country. He 
 even refused to allow me to use the water in the river, and upon 
 any attempt being made by my boys to get it, a bent bow or a 
 lance compelled them to retire. 
 
 However, understanding that the main reason of this alarm had 
 been the news of the arrival of armed people, rather than the 
 natural ferocity of the blacks, I tried to calm the hot spirit of 
 my boys, who were always ready to fight, and making myself 
 comfortable, I tranquilly settled in one of the deserted huts of the 
 village. But during the night of the second day, in the early 
 hours of the morning, as the watch upon us was not so strict, I 
 took a boy with me and ventured into the forest, both of us 
 armed with rifles. Everything was still ; no human beings were 
 to be seen, but I perceived a hut at a short distance, and through 
 the open door observed two men sound asleep ; as quick as 
 lightning we rushed upon them and ordered them to follow us 
 to our camp. Being astonished, frightened, and half asleep, they 
 did so. 
 
 The parley with the chiefs, by means of my two prisoners (one 
 of whom was a person of rank), occupied the whole day. The 
 natives had become more tranquil. Reason had again taken 
 possession of their minds, and we succeeded, before sunset, in 
 getting a solemn promise from them that on the following day 
 they would not only allow us to pass the beam which served as 
 a bridge across the river, but that they would escort us as far 
 as the village of another chief. We crossed the stream next 
 morning by means of this bridge, which was formed by two 
 beams joined together and resting upon flexible fork-shaped sticks 
 stuck in the mud of the river, which was a roaring torrent under 
 our feet. Assisted by two negroes, in order to have a firm step 
 upon the planks, which bent each time my foot was raised, I 
 reached the other bank of the river, with no little astonishment 
 and pleasure. The difl[icult task of making my donkey cross now 
 remained to be achieved. The river having a very rapid current, 
 and the banks being very high and steep, made it appear a 
 serious problem. Whilst I was endeavouring to find the means 
 of solving it, I saw two negroes take hold of the obstinate animal, 
 tie his legs with ropes, and, assisted by other natives, lift him on 
 a pole, and unhesitatingly cany him over the bridge and lay him 
 at my feet. 
 
 In the evening my friend, Yangara, having heard of my possible 
 danger, met me, and wanted to punish the inhabitants by firing 
 their village, but I asked him not to do so. They deserved to be 
 forgiven for the service rendered to my donkey. Every good 
 action should have its reward.
 
 1 88 TEN YEARS IN EQ UA TORI A. 
 
 During his short stay in Mambettu, Emin visited Bellima and 
 Tangasi. He got rid of some riotous Arab officials at the station, 
 and sentenced the chiefs Mambanga and Bagliinde to death. He 
 was making arrangements for exploring and opening a new road 
 from Gango to Wadelai, when the news arrived of the insurrection 
 of the natives in the Rohl district. This was the first lightning of 
 the storm which was approaching from Bahr-el-Ghazal. 
 
 Emin Bey then returned to his position of defence at Lado.
 
 ( iSq ) 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 THE MAHDIST MOVEMENT. 
 
 State of the negroes in the Egyptian possessions — Letter to Captain Camperio — 
 The question of slavery and its difficulties — The curse of Ham — Inclinations 
 of the negroes — Masters and servants — Slave-traders — Native chiefs their 
 accomplices — Egypt and Zanzibar — The infamous slave-trade — Europe and 
 the treaties — The Khedive Ismail — Sir Samuel Baker — General Gordon — 
 Desperate resistance— Necessity and duty of preventing the slave-trade — The 
 Arabs must be removed — Domestic slavery — Patience and perseverance- 
 Proper means — Marriages, courts of justice, and altars — Homes — Fate of the 
 negro tribes in the Mambettu and Sandeh countries — Freemen and slaves — 
 The Monfu and Abarambo tribes — Effect of a sentence — Women — Mambanga 
 and Baghinde resuscitated — Rebellion in Mambettu — Kadebo's end — The 
 temple of Janus closed — Two boars sentenced to death — Chamberlains com- 
 pelled to fast — A neophite for a plate of meat — Rivalry between Arabs and 
 Soudanese — Ibrahim Guruguru — Lieut.-Col. Bachit Bey — Ringio's head — 
 Alloron, Baker's enemy — The rebellion in Bahr-el-Ghazal — Johann Maria 
 Schiiver— Emin's letter, May 28, 1884 — " Either I win the day or die " — Kere- 
 mallah's intimation — Deliberations under the impression of fear — " It was a 
 dream " — The difficulty of retreat — Exodus of the Arabs — " The tree offers 
 shade, and the Koran is mine." 
 
 I THINK it advisable to transcribe the following letter which I 
 addressed to Manfredo Camperio, editor of the Esploratore, in 
 August 1883, concerning the condition of negroes in the Egyptian 
 provinces, even after events have partially modified the condition 
 of affairs. 
 
 •• Taxgasi, AurjUrSt 30, 1883. 
 
 "The slave-trade, though said to be momentarily lulled and 
 reduced, may nevertheless, under favourable conditions, spring 
 forth anew, and regain a vigorous existence, if radical, energetic, 
 and logical measures are not taken to destroy every hope of those 
 infamous merchants. The establishment of a special official at 
 Khartoum for watching and suppressing this shameful business 
 will not have the desired effect ; only sound legal and practical 
 measures can avail to remove the causes favouring it, or be the 
 means of giving a safe and peaceful life to people who drag out 
 their existence in fear, mistrust, and hatred. 
 
 " A serious and civilising policy of the State, promoting the de- 
 velopment of industry and increased activity, will be more useful 
 than the pompous, declamatory circulars, written for the only 
 object of hiding the evil by denying its existence or diminishing
 
 I90 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 its extent. The Negro countries should be completely separated 
 from those of the Arabs or those where they predominate, and the 
 Bahr-el-Gliazal should be grouped together with Equatoria under 
 a separate autonomous rule. Uniting these scattered members 
 within a natural and logical boundary would awake a confidence 
 in the blacks which they do not now feel in the Government, and 
 convince them that it would have the same care for them that it 
 has for the other provinces of the State. 
 
 " The Arabs who are now scattered over the territory without 
 any permanent abode, hopeless of assimilating with the natives or 
 of acquiring a superiority over them, and who are thieves and 
 beggars without exception, should be sent to their native country 
 with no probability of return. It would be easy enough to give 
 the new province, thus cleared of a pestiferous and dangerous 
 element, a just rule, in accordance with their most urgent wants. 
 
 " The Soudan Government has to deal with an Arab population 
 quite distinct from the natives in race, language, habits, and ten- 
 dencies. To facilitate the action of the State, the new territory 
 should be subdivided into three great provinces under a Mudir — 
 viz., the northern, eastern, and western, all subordinate to the 
 chief of the province, who should reside at Sobat, a very convenient 
 locality, situated at the junction of the water-courses near Khar- 
 toum, Lado, and Bahr-el-Ghazal. The first and principal reforms 
 to be introduced should be discretionary power given to a Euro- 
 pean Governor, free trade, free admission of the merchants to the 
 markets, facilities of transport, encouragement and prizes for agri- 
 culture, and the establishment of elementary schools. Confidence 
 should, above all, be inspired in the population ; negroes, well 
 aware of the value and importance of the benefits offered them, 
 would, if not from gratitude, certainly on account of self-interest, 
 
 be certain to follow the new path opened to them." 
 
 K: * * * . * * # 
 
 The slave-trade is a very complex question that cannot be solved 
 
 either forcibly or suddenly ; the solution must follow the gradual 
 
 development of an historical process, and any irrational act would 
 
 only make the evil worse, and increase the difficulty. 
 
 \| Civilisation in America was the work of conquest and destruc- 
 
 *' tion, but in Africa it ought to be one of assimilation. 
 
 Since the day in which men's wickedness applauded the male- 
 diction pronounced upon Ham, his descendants have been con- 
 demned to nudity and slavery. The intellectual and moral develop- 
 ment of African populations has always been hindered by obstacles, 
 accumulated not only by Nature, but also by man ; moreover, on 
 account of the special conditions of climate and soil, they have but 
 limited wants and wishes, and could never avail themselves of the 
 benefit of moral and intellectual improvement. As a consequence, 
 the inclinations of the blacks have solely depended on mistrust.
 
 THE SLAVE TRADE. 191 
 
 revenge, hatred, and reciprocal destruction, which they consider 
 the noblest virtues, and to satisfy them has been the sole object of 
 their existence. The domination of the strong over the weak led 
 to the primary difference between master and servant, which in 
 course of time, in consequence of the habitual cowardice and 
 superstitious resignation of the latter, degenerated into slavery. 
 
 The conquered was a slave condemned to work, and an object of 
 exchange, as any other merchandise ; but the evil did not rest 
 here : chiefs who afterwards came into contact with the Arab slave- 
 traders, induced by a desire for the possession of objects which 
 satisfied their curiosity and raised them from their low condition, 
 thoughtless of the ruin they were bringing on themselves, entered 
 into contracts with them. The trade was thus organised ; the 
 negroes became mere beasts of burden, and, dragged away from 
 their country, were barbarously sold in the markets ; and the 
 Arabs, despising a people who had no religion, and trampling on 
 every right of humanity, hunted the natives as if they had been 
 wild beasts. 
 
 Egypt and Zanzibar became the great emporiums of human 
 flesh. Europe required treaties against the slave-trade, and ob- 
 tained them, but the evil, deeply rooted and very profitable, only 
 exhibited the appearance of suppression ; mercenary employes, 
 being continually bribed and corrupted, often had a share in the 
 infamous traffic. 
 
 Ismail's Government bought the slave-traders' establishments, 
 but with no practical result ; arms were resorted to, but the wished- 
 for issue was not attained. 
 
 The interested parties' intrigues discomforted Sir Samuel Baker. 
 Gordon, who had initiated the work very cleverly, liaving been 
 drawn into the war of Bahr-el-Gliazal, left the Soudan in the ex- 
 citement of rebellion which jeopardised public tranquillity. 
 
 The bloodshed did not bear fruit ; the appeal to arms, instead 
 of solving the question, exasperated it, and as a manifestation of 
 the spirit of resistance, the Mahdi, the man who was to redeem 
 humanity and give peace to the world, made his appearance. 
 
 To fight the slave-trade and pursue it into its deepest and 
 darkest recesses, to make its existence imjaossible, especially by 
 preventing the sale of slaves in the markets, is not only a work of 
 humanity, but also essentially a political one. The only way of 
 securing the success of this project, will be to restrain the arro- 
 gance of the Arabs — a nation of fanatics incapable of the most 
 elementary ideas of patriotism and moral progress. 
 
 As long as this race predominates in Africa, any attempt at 
 civilising that country will be fruitless. The Arab weighs on the 
 African people like an incubus, and, therefore, the first step to be 
 taken must be to render this deadly enemy harmless. 
 
 The position is very different in what I should call domestic
 
 192 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 slavery. It originated as a necessity in the childhood of human 
 civilisation, and is bound to disappear ultimately ; not through the 
 power of events or of sudden changes, but through the slow and 
 progressive transformation of social customs. 
 
 The principal features of efforts devised for the relief of the 
 negroes must be patience, perseverance, and, in short, their protec- 
 tion, which, in reality, should accompany and render clear and 
 acceptable the endeavours made for their redemption. Woe be to 
 him who would shock their native mistrust. 
 
 The mission work ought to be kept within proper limits, and 
 directed to practical purposes rather than to mystical formulas. 
 
 The authority of the native chiefs should be used to advantage 
 instead of being ignored ; all intercourse manifestly tending to 
 the welfare of the people, and not to the hateful exploration of 
 their natural riches, should be encouraged ; in short, every effort 
 should be made to render them thoughtful for the future and 
 careful keepers of property. The redemption of the blacks will 
 become a fact on the day in which marriages, courts of justice, 
 and religion will ensure their happiness. 
 
 Among the Sandeh and Marabettu tribes the despotic authority 
 of the king' is maintained by the co-operation of the minor chiefs, 
 almost like a feudal rule, and is of more or less advantage to the 
 natives, according to the peculiar disposition of the chief of the 
 State. 
 
 Bakangoi makes his power heavily felt by his subjects, and is 
 hated by them, but revered as a matter of traditional habit. 
 
 Kanua, firm in his intentions, but intelligent and prudent, con- 
 ciliates the affection of his subjects. Yangara, chained by the 
 slave-traders' influence, is satisfied with his own prosperity, whilst 
 Gambari is a voluntary tool and accomplice in all their rascalities. 
 Whilst among the Sandeh tribes the slave-traders' violence is 
 forcibly opposed, in Mambettu the people give their support to the 
 hateful business. 
 
 The Government officials and soldiers — not openly, but in reality 
 — were also tools who facilitated the work, injuring the prestige 
 and authority of the native chiefs more and more. 
 
 The mass of people is divided into freemen and slaves. This 
 last class is perpetuated by birth, and augmented and maintained 
 by wars and raids — inexhaustible sources of wealth. 
 
 In the Mambettu country the Monfu people are considered an 
 inferior race, and supply the largest quota of slaves ; but the state 
 in which they are kept has neither the character of an offence to 
 human dignity nor of yielding to tyranny ; they are generally 
 destined to labour in the fields, and do not enjoy certain privileges 
 pertaining to the higher classes, but every care is taken to make 
 them happy. 
 
 Amongst the Sandeh there are colonies of Abarambo people,
 
 INSURRECTION SUPPRESSED. 193 
 
 who have no power in the management of public affairs, and are 
 employed in the hardest and most painful labours ; but, on the 
 other hand, they are not ill-treated, nor are they in danger of 
 seeing their families destroyed. A freeman may, it is true, become 
 a slave through a sentence for some offence, but he is only liable 
 to become so in the case of a judgment being pronounced on him 
 by the chief, and his new social position does not much alter the 
 habits of his former mode of life. 
 
 The slaves appointed for work in their masters' dwellings are 
 considered after a time as members of the family. The housewife 
 is entrusted with the management of the family, and also with 
 that of sowing and harvesting. She influences the mind of the 
 man, and takes an active part in the direction of daily affairs. 
 
 Though polygamy is general, and the number of wives (espe- 
 cially with chiefs) reaches considerable proportions, yet the distri- 
 bution of the duties and rights of each of them is so arranged as 
 to avoid disputes. 
 
 Jealousy is exhibited on rare occasions, having no reason to 
 exist where all individual rights are respected. 
 
 Women, who are destined to hard work, are not ill-used ; on the 
 contrary, they are surrounded with care and attention, so long as 
 they do not awaken jealousy in the heart of their master. 
 
 Equity and justice are generally the main features of society 
 amongst these people ; and, if it were not for the insinuation of 
 corrupt maxims by the Arabs, very favourable hopes might be 
 entertained for the advance of civilisation. 
 
 " Mambanga is resuscitated, and goes about the country in the 
 form of a leopard desirous of revenge. Baghinde, who was 
 executed, has taken the shape of a snake, and is scattering terror 
 and desolation everywhere." 
 
 This is the legend which made its way amongst the Mambettu 
 almost as soon as Emin left the country. The graves were robbed 
 of the dead, and people, either frightened or thirsting for revenge, 
 were expecting approaching trouble. 
 
 Yori, Mambanga's stepbrother, raised the Abisanga people, and 
 incited them 10 war, the incidents of which, sometimes favourable 
 and at others not, roused the feelings of the population. The 
 Abarambo rebelled against the Government. The Monfu, led by 
 Kadebo, tried to shake off the yoke, which they had borne for a 
 long time. Mbruo was killed by his own subjects (the Abarambo), 
 and the Government troops were in serious danger. But Gambari 
 made an alliance with the latter, and, having ordered his soldiers 
 into action, defeated and imprisoned Kadebo ; whilst the troops, 
 assisted by Yangara's people, reduced the Abarambo tribe to 
 obedience, and dispersed Yori's Abisanga.
 
 194 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 Kadebo was killed ; Gambari extended the boundaries of his 
 kingdom ; Mbitima, a rebel to his father, Wando, established him- 
 self upon Mambanga's former throne. 
 
 The patronage, rather than the authority, of the Government 
 was strengthened, no matter how, and the temple of Janus was 
 declared closed. Mussulman influence reigned, and not the spirit 
 of progress and civilisation. 
 
 Rehan Aga, a major in the army, and a Soudanese by birth, 
 suggested to Gambari that he should sentence to death the two 
 wild boars which he had kept for some time in a domestic state, as 
 guilty of being forbidden food by Mohammed. The king also com- 
 pelled the people of his Court and the chiefs to keep the fast of 
 the Ramadan. 
 
 Captain Faratch Ajoke * taught Mussulman theology to a Bamba 
 chief, who was an assiduous and pious pupil, more on account 
 of the repast that was ready for him than for the sake of the 
 theories which were to safely lead him to a heaven of wonderful 
 happiness. 
 
 To assign the various Government ofiices of the Soudan either 
 to the military or to the Arabs has always been an arduous and 
 compromising task. The rivalry between these two factions, innate 
 and spontaneous on account of the difference of race, was greatly 
 increased by the rapacious acts of the slave-dealers, though they 
 were somewhat bridled by the Government ; the consequence was 
 a latent jealousy, which several times broke out, and injured the 
 right course of action taken by the Government. 
 
 Emin, through the generally righteous measures taken by him 
 against the great prevalence of the Arab element in the Rumbek, 
 Ayak, and Amadi territories, has caused the military Soudanese 
 party to conceive hopes of obtaining great power or influence in 
 the administration of the whole country. 
 
 But contrary to the hopes of the native party that he had raised 
 in the Makraka territory he had granted entire confidence and 
 discretionary power to the Arab, Ibrahim Mohammed Guru- 
 guru. Thanks to Ibrahim's clever statesmanship, the country had 
 greatly thriven, both materially and financially, but the germ of 
 moral dissolution grew daily through the intrigues of the slave- 
 traders. 
 
 Lieut.-Col. Bachit Bey, loved by the people for his common 
 origin with themselves, and by the soldiers for his distinguished 
 warlike virtues, could not submit to being placed in a position 
 subordinate to a clever and celebrated slave-dealer such as Ibrahim ; 
 he would not sufier the insult, and prepared to act ; but having 
 fought and been conquered, he was sent to Khartoum. 
 
 The head of the unhappy Ringio, grand chief of the Sandeh, 
 
 * Faratch Ajoke, an old soldier, who was sentenced to death as a deserter by 
 Su: Samuel Baker, laut pardoned at Lady Baker's intercession.
 
 A LETTER FROM EMIN. 195 
 
 who since Petherick's time had contributed so much to the re- 
 establisliment of order and to the material development of the 
 Makraka territory, was immolated as the reward of the triumphant 
 Arab. 
 
 At Gondokoro, on the Nile, Gordon and Baker's inexorable 
 enemies, Alloron and his people, the Bari, from their natural way- 
 wardness, and, still more, for the continued vexations of the Govern- 
 ment stations in their territories, had been agitating for a revolt 
 for some time, in order to defend their own independence. 
 
 On June 27, 188i, Alloron was executed by Ibrahim Hamaghili 
 as a malefactor and not as a rebel. The seizure of 3000 oxen, the 
 devastation of the country, and the alienation of the Bari people's 
 affection were the lamentable consequences ; the only satisfaction 
 given to those poor people was the restitution of 700 cattle. 
 
 Nor was the state of affairs in Bahr-el-Gliazal any better : the 
 Dinka people were in open revolt, Rafai, a trustworthy man and 
 gallant soldier, had been killed in the war ; the last steamer which 
 in August 1883 had brought Johann Maria Schiiver (barbarously 
 murdered in the Rek territory) had left for Khartoum with the 
 best soldiers on board. 
 
 Intercourse between Equatoria and Jur Gattas was interrupted 
 by the hostility of the Agar and Atot tribes ; the western route to 
 Mambettu was insufficient for a reciprocal exchange of news on 
 account of its difficulties and its length. 
 
 Lupton and Emin were each fighting in their own territory and 
 for their own interests ; both of them being rather inclined to 
 indulge a vague hope for better times, than to look to internal 
 affairs for a favourable solution of events. 
 
 The Mahdist movement was drawing nearer and nearer, and 
 nobody thought of the precaution of general action against the 
 ever increasing danger. Men's blunders were as great as the 
 adversity of events, and, slumbering on, they were continually 
 expecting the morrow to improve their condition. 
 
 " So fate decreed : 
 And over us the booming billow closed." 
 
 Dante, Hdl, Canto xxvi. 
 
 ^ T^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ■% 
 
 A letter from Emin, dated May 28, 1884, reached me at my 
 residence near the river Gadda ; he asked me to retire eastward, 
 on account of the very serious events which had taken place at 
 Bahr-el-Ghazal ; Lupton had informed him, by a letter dated 
 April 12, of the approach of the new Prophet's army ; it was en- 
 camped at Dem Solyman, six hours' journey from his abode. 
 Two dervishes had requested him to surrender to Sheik Keremallah 
 Mohammed, a representative of the false prophet. 
 
 " I will fight to the last," he wrote. '' I have placed three guns 
 on the ramparts and hope to succeed in keeping them back if they
 
 196 
 
 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 assault the fortress. If I am conquered, they will at ouce march 
 upon you, therefore be on your guard. This letter may be the last 
 I shall send you ! My position is hopeless ; my people have 
 surrendered to the enemy in great numbers. Either I win the 
 day or die.'' 
 
 Emin added that the Emir Keremallah had informed him of the 
 Mahdi's victories in the Soudan, of the defeat of General Hicks, 
 
 DH. VITA HASSAN. 
 
 the Prophet's victorious army. Emin concluded his letter by 
 saying that a general meeting of the officers and employes at Lado 
 had unanimously decided to surrender. On the following IMonday 
 (May 31, 1884), he and the commissioners, Dr. Vita Hassan, the 
 Cadi, the schoolmaster, Lieutenant Mussa, Osman Arbab, and 
 Ahmed Baba, employes of the Government, would leave for Dem 
 of Slatin* and Lupton's surrender and imprisonment. He urged 
 him at the same time to give up the Province of Equatoria to 
 
 * Governor of the province of Darf ur.
 
 START FOR MAKRAKA. 
 
 197 
 
 Solyman in order to submit to Kereraallah. Dr. Junker also sent 
 a letter informing me of his decision to start for the South, and 
 asking me to follow him without delay. 
 
 MAKEAKA CilRL. 
 
 Astonished and startled at the rapid progress of the storm, I 
 meditated as to the best plan to adopt, and at once decided to make 
 for Makraka xiCi Dongu.
 
 198 TEN \ 'EARS IN E QUA TORI A. 
 
 I left the river Gadda, 'iuly 20. All my cherished hopes and 
 plans of following the course of the Welle had disappeared as a 
 dream ; the course of events hurried us forward, and we were com- 
 pelled to yield to them. 
 
 The difficulties of the journey were extraordinary and most 
 painful. The negroes, disturbed by the news and frightened by 
 the possibility of an early invasion, irritated at everything and 
 everybody, accused us of having caused their ruin, barred the road, 
 refused to assist, and even threatened us. The most populated 
 centres and the roads with most traffic were full of dangers. 
 Prudence and sagacity caused us to march by night in out of the 
 way paths and by long routes. 
 
 In the territories having Government stations, as Dongu, Mundu, 
 and Tendia, armed slaves of the Donagla tribe, who had left for 
 the North, scoured the country, robbing and spreading terror on 
 the way. 
 
 At last, on August 29, I reached Wandy, and heard there that 
 Emin was still holding out at Lado ; letters from Rumbek had 
 brought news of the horrors perpetrated by the Mahdists after the 
 conquest of the province. They had burnt the Government books 
 and documents ; pillaged the warehouses ; sold the guns, and, 
 after having disarmed the soldiers, had sold them as slaves, 
 together with the women and children. 
 
 These were the benefits derived from the armies of the modern 
 proj^het, the apostle of freedom. 
 
 In presence of such news, the people of Lado had reconsidered 
 their hasty decision of May 27. They decided to send a deputation 
 to Keremallah to offer the surrender of the province, on condition 
 that steamers from Khartoum should be sent to take the soldiers 
 and officials away. 
 
 This deputation, which consisted of the Cadi, the schoolmaster, 
 an officer, and two clerks, left Lado, July 3, 1884. 
 
 But in addition to the danger threatening the province from 
 without, a fresh internal disorder had sprung up to make matters 
 worse. Ibrahim, chief of Makraka, having heard of the steps 
 taken so hastily and with such want of judgment at Lado, and 
 feeling sure of the impending anarchy (as well as incited by his 
 religious tendencies), after having pillaged the warehouses of the 
 State, devastated JNlakraka, Zogaier, and Kabayendy, and reduced 
 many women and children to slavery, sunk the boats on the Yei 
 at Wandy and established his camp at Kudurma. 
 
 A great number of armed slave-traders belonging to the stations 
 of the province followed his example ; the exodus of Arabs had 
 spread horror over the country. The letters that Keremallah had 
 addressed to the officials incited them to rebellion and gave alarm- 
 ing news. The Soudan was lost, and Khartoum besieged and 
 about to vield to the Mahdi.
 
 KEREMALLAH'S LETTERS. 199 
 
 The faith of the Mahdi troubled people's minds and consciences ; 
 religion was the pretence of the war, and the new formula was 
 inquired into. Every one piously repeated the new dogma. " The 
 tree casts shade and the Koran is mine ; it is the light. There are 
 no other gods but God, and Mohammed Ahmed is His real and 
 last envoy. 
 
 " I have given my blood, my wealth, and my children to God ; 
 for it is His will."
 
 ( 200 ) 
 
 CHAPTER XVII. 
 
 THE MAHDISTS APPROACH LADO. 
 
 A modern Moses — A bag of locusts — We white men will escape — Military 
 measures — First blood shed — Death of Ibrahim Guruguru — I advise abandon- 
 ing Amadi — Proscription rolls — Horrors and slaughters — The country of 
 Makraka — An eclipse of the moon — Slaughter of Bor — Mahdists before Amadi 
 — I go to Lado — Niambara between Mount Rego and Mire — Impromptu fables 
 — Bari people — Their habits and dispositions — Dwellings — The Euphorhiuni 
 candelahrum — Trees — Birds — Crocodiles and hippopotami — Butter and salt — 
 Exorcism for rainfall — Junker settles down on the Victoria Nile — News of the 
 situation at Amadi — Amadi abandoned— Letter from Keremallah — Interview 
 with Emin — My proposal is accepted — Two troublesome steamers — Battle of 
 Rimo — News of the capture of Khartoum — Death of Gordon — April 25, 1885 — 
 Emin's departure for Gondokoro — Abdullah Niambara and his seventy-two 
 people— Lado after Emin's departure — Keremallah starts for Bahr-el-Ghazal. 
 
 The commotion caused by tlie exodus, the sight of daily violence, 
 the arrogance and licentiousness of the soldiers, struck the country 
 with terror. The Mahdi, a new Moses, lifting his hands to heaven, 
 preached the extermination of the modern Amalekites. Infidels 
 were shot by their own guns whilst aiming at the believers, who 
 conquered without arms. Mohammed Ahmed was said to make 
 water spring from the earth, and gather heaps of grain by one 
 sign of his hand. " The word of God commands the destruction 
 of the infidels," said Ahmed, son of Said Omar el Mukashafi, a 
 faithful follower of the prophet, showing a sackful of locusts in the 
 square of Sennaar. " Behold ! the souls of the Giaours are my 
 prisoners ! Victory is with the true believers ! — Hasten confidently 
 to the work of extermination ! " 
 
 These tales told in different ways by people from the North 
 excited the minds of the population and of the soldiers, thus pre- 
 paring the way for that Iliad of misfortunes that desolated the 
 Soudan for so long. 
 
 On May 27, in the midst of general discouragement, Emin, 
 anxious to find an anchor of safety and to save his prestige from 
 total ruin, had uttered these imprudent words : " We, white men, 
 shall escape — I answer for it. We will give our black soldiers 
 to my good friend Kabba Rega, the king of Unyoro, and he Avill 
 permit us to cross his boundaries.'' 
 
 These words were repeated by loquacious Egyptians, and the 
 chief's intentions were soon known by tlie black soldiers, who, with 
 the usual discretion (one of the good qualities of their race), though
 
 THE RE VOL UTION SPREADS. 201 
 
 startled at the news, kept silent. Suspicion and mistrust at first 
 led to disobedience, and later on open rebellion was resorted to. 
 
 .\iaki;ak.v wAiiKini:. 
 
 They affirmed their equality as soldiers, and shook off the dis- 
 honour of slavery. 
 
 Safety depended on the Egyptian soldiers ; the country was in 
 their hands, but they abused their power over the populations.
 
 202 
 
 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 The northern stations, Rumbek, Ayak, and Bufi, those in the Mam- 
 bettu, and the eastern ones were abandoned ; Amadi and Lado 
 prepared for defence, the Government offices were concentrated at 
 
 >[AKRAKA NEGRO. 
 
 Duiile. At Amadi 1-jOO guns were at hand, and a similar number 
 had been distributed among the Makraka and Nile stations. 
 
 On August 18, 1881, the first blood was shed: four soldiers were
 
 GRADUAL ABANDONMENT. 
 
 20J 
 
 killed by the Donagla rebels of Lesi, under the command of Ali 
 Kortkutli, formerly an elejiliant hunter, who was joined by the 
 rebels of Kudurma, after their chief, Ibrahim, had been slain near 
 Dugguru, by the people of Abd-el-Ssamath. 
 
 Several fights took place at intervals, the only battle of import- 
 ance being that of December 8, in which the soldiers of Amadi 
 entered the besiegers' camp, but were compelled to retire by the 
 armed intervention of the natives. 
 
 It was obvious that military action, insufficient to face the ever 
 increasing rebellion, would soon be paralysed, and that Amadi 
 would surrender to Keremallah's troops. 
 
 As it was my duty to place my services at the disposal of the 
 
 A GROUP OF MAKUAKA NEGROES. 
 
 Governor, in that difficult condition I wrote a letter, in which I 
 advised him to abandon Amadi, fortify Kabayendy, Wandy, and 
 Ndirfi in Makraka ; Niambara amongst the mountains of llego on 
 the road to Lado, and thus ]Drotect Lado and the route to the Nile 
 by a circle of fortifications. To prove the expediency of such 
 measures, I added that Amadi had lost any warlike value, since the 
 Mahdists had entrenched themselves on the left bank of the Yei 
 river on the heights of Takfara ; that the river in the forthcoming 
 season would be fordable ; that the fortress had rebellious popula- 
 tions at its rear ; and that provisioning it was becoming difficult 
 and dangerous, having to be carried out on only one side. 
 
 My proposal was met with a smile, and was not even discussed,
 
 204 
 
 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 so absurd did the doubt as to the issue of the war seem to them. 
 Strange delusion ! Cunning, contradictory expedients, derived 
 from error and groundless hope, inspired the leadership of the war, 
 elating for a short while the heart of him who resorted to them. 
 When resistance was decided upon, and the surrender to military 
 commanders negatived, precise instructions were given to proceed 
 summarily against all those who might have been suspected of con- 
 nivance witli the enemy, or related in any way to the revolutionary 
 party. Proscription rolls were daily published, and 300 innocent 
 and guilty people carelessly mixed together were sacrificed to the 
 public welfare, as well as to private vindictiveness and greed. But 
 as if to hide these horrible slaughters from the world, the 
 
 GROUP OF MAKRAKA GIRLS. 
 
 executions were perjietrated in the midst of tall grass or marshes. 
 Ferocity added to the sufferings of the victims. At Wandy, a 
 sergeant proudly showed me a small, blood-stained knife, which 
 hung from his arm ; with which a few hours previously he had cut 
 the throat of an Arab who was guilty of having about a hundred 
 dollars and some fifty oxen in his possession ; and their cruelty 
 went so far as to give up at Amadi seventy Arabs who were accused 
 of hostile feelings towards the besieged people to the Sandeh- 
 Bombe, who had hastened to help the Government ; and the victims, 
 having been slaughtered like cattle, were eaten by the hungry 
 anthropophagi. 
 
 The Governor, powerless to put a stop to the increasing thirst
 
 MAKRAKA. 
 
 205 
 
 for blood and the revengeful spirit of the military tyrants, was not 
 only compelled to sign proscriptions, but also to initiate them, and 
 to praise murderers and shake hands with them. The remem- 
 brance of those days is frightful even now. 
 
 The country of the Makraka— once delightful for its extensive 
 and rich fields, and its joyful villages with active and provident 
 populations — had been changed into a squalid land. Ahmed 
 Akkan's beautiful gardens at Makraka Zogaier, rich in lemon and 
 orange trees, the extensive cotton plantations, the vast fields of 
 Atrush at Kabayendy and Wandy, were forsaken and given up to 
 weeds. 
 
 The natives, sometimes frightened, at other times fi'autic, assem- 
 bled or ran away, according to circumstances. 
 
 It was a night in November, if I am not mistaken, when a 
 sudden clamour, clashing of arms, and frightful shouts awakened 
 the whole village and the natives in the surrounding huts. The 
 sounds of drums and trumpets were united to that wave of desola- 
 tion ; women and children ran weeping in the streets, Arabs 
 howled their prayers, and soldiers angrily uttered the most 
 horrible curses. The country was being disturbed by an eclipse 
 of the moon. 
 
 This unlucky spectacle, a presage of bloodshed, misfortune, and 
 ruin, added discouragement to the daily sufferings. 
 
 Next morning, Captain Farag Yusef, holding his head between 
 his hands, without even rising as he always did when I called upon 
 him, told me : 
 
 '• It comes to the same. Either under Keremallah or Emin Bey, 
 we are soldiers and we shall always work." 
 
 And the poor man sighed deeply, upon concluding the strange 
 axiom that his intelligence had been able to formulate. 
 
 Lack of discipline amongst the soldiers and the arrogance of 
 their chiefs, daily caused fresh distress. I wrote to Emin that the 
 state of affairs warranted severe and energetic measures ; that he 
 ought to go to the battlefield of Amadi, and encourage disheartened 
 people. Also that the Donagla ought to be sent to the other side 
 of the Nile in order to protect them from the persecutions of the 
 military party. Emin answered that he considered his presence 
 indispensable at Lado, and ordered that all Arabs should leave the 
 town, but repealed this order soon after. 
 
 The state of affairs was becoming more and more serious and 
 intricate. Keremallah was sometimes writing threatening letters ; 
 at others exhortations to surrender, whilst the blacks were every- 
 where joining the Mahdi's party against the Government. 
 
 On the last day of the year the sad news reached us, that, at the 
 garrison place of Bor, on the eastern bank of the Nile, 107 soldiers 
 had been killed, amongst them being a captain and a lieutenant, 
 by the allied negro tribes (Bor, Agar, Nuer, and Eliab) ; ten boxes
 
 2o6 
 
 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 of ammunition and fifty-nine Remington rifles having been taken 
 by the enemy. 
 
 The new year 1885 began under no better auspices. No news 
 
 BUST OF A MAKRAKA XEGKO. 
 
 from Khartoum. Every hope of help had to be given up. The 
 deputation had deserted us and joined the invaders. 
 
 On the Gth of January, Osman Arbab, one of the deputies.
 
 / START FOR LADO. 207 
 
 wrote advising surrender, as he was before Amadi with 400 soldiers, 
 and awaiting other troops. For the welfare of the province he had 
 pledged himself to convey employes and soldiers to Keremallah at 
 Dem Solyman. 
 
 Three battles had already been fought, with loss of life and 
 ammunition, and with no practical result. At Amadi the disagree- 
 ment amongst the chiefs and the indiscipline of the troops jeopar- 
 dised any future chance. The soldiers had not yet obeyed the order 
 to leave Mambettu and make for Makraka. 
 
 There was no unity of action in the province, and chance was 
 becoming the only ruler of events. 
 
 I decided to leave Wandy, and on the 20th of Jannary I started 
 for Lado, yielding to the reiterated invitations of Junker and 
 Emin. 
 
 The line of waterparting between the river Yei and the Nile 
 divides the Makraka territory from that of the Bari by means of a 
 spur proceeding from the Kakua region and sloping as far as Amadi 
 and Bufi. The principal part of the northern portion of the system 
 consists of the rocky mountains of Rego and Mire, which enclose 
 the country inhabited by the Niambara. 
 
 The land being hard, difficult to the traveller, short of water, and 
 covered by forests, is naturally a rampart of the main Nile valley. 
 The range of mountains, which extends south as far as Gumbiri, 
 Korobe, and Ganda, is a barrier that protects and defends the 
 valley as far as Dufile. 
 
 The position of Niambara is of great importance, both on account 
 of its defensive qualities and for its convenient exits towards Lado, 
 as well as towards Amadi and Wandy. Besides, it is situated most 
 favourably for covering a retreat southwards down the valley of the 
 river, and as an advanced fortress for the defence of Lado. 
 
 The whole distance may be compassed in five days of easy march- 
 ing. I arrived on the 2ord, having hurried my march on account 
 of want of water. Negroes object to travelling through that country 
 by night, because it is infested by numerous wild beasts ; my 
 prayers and exhortations were of no avail, their answer constantly 
 being : 
 
 " We are not Bari — and lions and leopards slay numbers of us " 
 — alluding to the general belief in Makraka, that Bari people and 
 leopards are similar — that is, that the souls of the Bari migrate at 
 their death into the bodies of these animals. 
 
 At last we found a remedy for these fears. Each carrier would 
 be provided with a tuft of dry grass, and fires constantly lighted at 
 several places for the length of the column. But this diversion of 
 their minds was not without sudden disturbances, caused by their 
 excited fancies, which made them every now and then perceive the 
 shining eyes of wild animals in the bushes and shrubs. 
 
 The Bari people inhabit a vast extension of land ; they number
 
 2o8 
 
 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 about 100,000, and are divided into many tribes, amongst which 
 the most important are : Fajelu, Lighi, Mandari, Shir, Kiiko, and 
 Leria. 
 
 Their physical characteristics are : tall stature, long trunk, and 
 narrow pelvis. 
 
 Individuals of both sexes stain their body red, and shave their 
 hair and eyebrows. Men and unmarried women are completely 
 naked. 
 
 Twins are considered unlucky, and when a birth of the kind 
 
 BARI WOMEX. 
 
 takes place, the mother is sent back to her father, who is bound to 
 return part of the dowry paid. 
 
 The dead are buried inside their huts, in square graves, in which 
 the body is placed in a sitting jDosture, resting on its heels with the 
 hands tied behind. After having been filled and covered with 
 earth, the graves are sprinkled with the blood of slaughtered oxen, 
 or, in the case of poor people, with beer. 
 
 They are particularly fond of cattle, from which they obtain the 
 necessary supply of milk and blood ; the latter is drawn at fixed 
 times, by lancing the inguinal regions. Meat is only eaten in the 
 case of the animal's natural death. 
 
 Their dwellings consist of small huts, grouped together and sur- 
 rounded by hedges of Etiphorhium candelabrum^ from which plant 
 they obtain a juice that is used for poisoning arrows.
 
 THE BARI PEOPLE. 209 
 
 Tamarindiis indica : hassia Parldi, horasso, the red pentastemum, 
 and alvits presatorius are very common plants ; flocks oi Plcctroptcrus 
 Gaiiibensis and other web-footed birds swim about the banks of the 
 river. The white-headed eagle, thousands of weavers, and the 
 Ewptedes fvanciscanus^ are to be seen everywhere. 
 
 Numerous crocodiles and herds of hippopotami crowd the mouths 
 of small rivers, ready to plunge at the least noise ; and on both 
 banks, in the grass, on the hills, and in the bushes — there are 
 numbers of lions, leopards, elephants, buffaloes, antelopes, and wild 
 boars. 
 
 Herds of cows supply excellent milk, with which very good 
 butter could be manufactured if they would give up the habit of 
 washing the vessels with urine. 
 
 The salt which is met with abundantly between Rejaf and Lado 
 (in thin layers), is a source of considerable profit to the people, 
 especially in the exchanges of corn with the Makraka nation. 
 
 The Indian millet which is cultivated in the territory is of an 
 inferior flavour and of little use as food ; telabun (dcusina Coracana) 
 is much grown by the Fajelu. The natives cultivate but little 
 sesame, as they prefer vegetables as a condiment. 
 
 The Bari are jealous of their individual freedom and of the 
 preservation of the integrity of their own tribe. They are not 
 inclined to undertake services of long duration, nor do they like to 
 enlist as soldiers ; and they object to marrying individuals of 
 another race. They have not many superstitious practices, but 
 their respect and veneration for the dispensers of rain are greater 
 than those felt for the chiefs of the country. Exorcisms for rain 
 are the source of great remuneration to those who practise them, 
 but are often the cause of murder, especially when the forecast is 
 not confirmed by facts. 
 
 The state of affairs, either political or military, did not allow any 
 hope of better days. On the 26th of January, whilst ammunition 
 and fresh troops were being sent to Amadi, Dr. Junker left for the 
 South, in order to send news to Uganda, via Unyoro ; he was 
 going to reside on the Victoria Nile at Sultan Anfina's (chief of a 
 Shefalu tribe). 
 
 On the 22nd of February the Governor's messenger, who had 
 been sent for news as to the state of affairs at Amadi, returned. 
 In a confused and contradictory report, after having announced 
 Keremallah's arrival there, with numerous Donagla and armed 
 negi'oes, he concluded by saying that if soldiers and provisions 
 were sent at once, Amadi could hold out. 
 
 Strange blindness! Troops were despatched, and Makraka 
 received orders to send provisions; but the operations of the 
 besiegers were rapidly progressing, and communications with the 
 fortress had already been cut off. On the 29th of March three 
 deserters brought us the news of the evacuation of Amadi. 
 

 
 2 1 o TEN YEARS IN E QUA TORI A . 
 
 The soldiers, after having vainly besought their chiefs to yield and 
 pressed by hunger, made their way througli the besieging army, 
 sword in hand, and started for Makraka — forcibly compelling their 
 unwilling officers to follow them (a curious incident of warfare), 
 and were, with the women and children, killed or made prisoners 
 by the enemy. It was a horrible slaughter. 
 
 Such was the fate of Amadi, after having consumed the greater 
 part of the military resources of the province. 
 
 The Mahdists believed the catastrophe to be the last phase 
 of the war. On the 3rd of April, 1885, Keremallah wrote 
 to announce the so-called victory, and the death of Com- 
 mander Mergian Aga Danassuri, adding that if "within ten 
 days the Governor did not surrender to him he would march ui3on 
 Lado." 
 
 
 EMIN S DIVAN. 
 
 In Council, the officers and employes unanimously decided to 
 abandon the place and start for the South, according to the wishes 
 of the Governor. 
 
 Emin then wrote and forwarded a letter to Keremallah, in 
 which, among other things, he expressed his sorrow for having 
 been prevented by his soldiers from going to him, as he would 
 have willingly done. 
 
 That day Emin was more than troubled. Keremallah's troops 
 were only five hours distant. His anxiety may be easily under- 
 stood ; it was that of a man upon whom a great responsibility 
 rested.
 
 CONVERSATION WITH EMIN. 211 
 
 " I understand your anxiety, Dr. Emin," said I ; " but tliat is no 
 reason why we should run away." 
 " What are we to do tlieu ? '' 
 
 " Defend ourselves. Lado need not yield in a short time ; and 
 the enemy cannot continue the siege with many men. No great 
 supply of provisions is to be found in the country ; therefore the 
 besiegers would have to fetch their corn from Makraka, the 
 distance to which from here is not a short one." 
 
 •' They are sure to be well provided — Arabs know how to get 
 w^hat they want, and we, in Lado, if we do not yield to arms must 
 surrender to hunger." 
 
 " That is impossible. We have the river at our back, therefore 
 we could easily get corn from the I'ich Gondokoro and Befo coun- 
 tries. 
 
 " Very well. But going south we should find wheat in the 
 territory of the Madi tribes. Then, resting on the Lur country as 
 a base, it would be an easy matter to establish communications 
 with Unyoro and Uganda." 
 
 " Dear doctor, don't you think that retreat is a far more difficult 
 operation than defence ? " 
 
 " Why ? What have we to fear ? " 
 
 " You say that if Keremallah were not powerfully opposed he 
 would make for Lado. But before getting there he Avill be in- 
 formed of the direction of our retreat, and will follow us, not by 
 the riverside road, but rushing from the rich lands of the Fajelu 
 upon Bedden, Kirri, Muggi, Lahore, and will harass our retreat by 
 the Gumbiri and Korobe roads. Think a little of our long column 
 suddenly overtaken, attacked from the heights, stopped by the 
 river — and tell me whether such a disaster would not bo irrepar- 
 able ! " 
 
 " How do you advise me to act then ? What do you think ? " 
 " My advice is, that we should leave the country and go north- 
 east ; but to do so the sortie must be calmly and cautiously effected. 
 I am not speaking of the soldiers — they are frightened by the 
 disaster at Amadi, and will not oppose the departure. As we 
 should, then, proceed by a road turning north,* they would let us 
 lead them with confidence." 
 
 " But how are we to manage this operation, the troops being so 
 scattered about the country ? " 
 
 " I do not see any great difficulty; that which appears bad often 
 turns out the best, and such is our case. On a day to be fixed, 
 the left bank of the river should be abandoned, and all the garri- 
 sons should be transposed to the other side, just opposite the 
 abandoned places. The two steamers, Khedive and Nyanza, should 
 
 * It should be remembered that after Stanley's arrival also, the soldiers were 
 always afraid of being left in Unyoro or in some other hostile country, and ob- 
 jected to the retreat southwards. This fact explains many events in Equatoria.
 
 212 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 be sunk, after having been rendered unserviceable ; all native 
 boats must be destroyed. These arrangements accomplished, the 
 garrison of Lado should be withdrawn to Gondokoro. Such an 
 operation would protect us from any assault of the Mahdists, be- 
 cause an obstacle like the Xile is reliable and safe." 
 
 " Do you think that Keremallah would attempt to cross the 
 river ? " 
 
 " I do not ; but if he should, he would not find us here. We 
 would gradually concentrate our troops at Bor and Gondokoro, 
 whence we should mai'ch to Sobat, a country rich in cattle and 
 grain, and whose population does not yet possess firearms." 
 
 " Do you not think that the ofiicers will reject this plan, if sub- 
 mitted to their approval ? " 
 
 " To be sure ; but as they are accustomed to rely on their 
 master's word, you should first support the plan." 
 
 Early next morning Emin sent for me. I found all the officers 
 and employes assembled and explained my proposition ; it met 
 with the unanimous and enthusiastic approval of all whom the 
 Governor had summoned together. 
 
 Orders were accordingly despatched the same day. I was at 
 first delighted with the probable proceedings, but only to be after- 
 wards sadly disappointed. Owing to some latent influence, my 
 plan was opposed by the commander, officers, and officials of 
 Dufil^, on account of the loss that would be caused to the Egyp- 
 tian Treasury by the destruction of the steamers ! Emin did not 
 accept the proposed mode of action, and induced the others to re- 
 fuse their assent. I did not make any observation — their momen- 
 tary faithfulness was not worth notice. 
 
 Whilst the cowards remained at Amadi close to the enemy and 
 the bad characters deserted, a good many officers and soldiers 
 (about 600), together with the forces just arrived from Mambettu, 
 were organised and in readiness at Makraka. 
 
 Keremallah's soldiers, proud of their success at Amadi, decided 
 to attack Makraka before attacking Lado. At Rimo, in the early 
 part of April 1885, some Dongola and negroes attacked the Govern- 
 ment troojDS, who were on their way to Lado. The combat in the 
 open country was fierce and furious, but the Mahdi's troops were 
 beaten, and, having sustained heavy losses, hastily fell back 
 towards Amadi. 
 
 Meanwhile, the Emir Keremallah, whose headquarters were at 
 Amadi, was continually sending letters to the officers, soldiers, and 
 officials, requesting them to surrender; and to the Governor he 
 wrote that, instead of sending a deputation, he would rather come 
 personally, trusting that Emin would meet him on the way. 
 
 In one of his last epistles he enclosed a copy of a letter from 
 Mohammed Ahmed, dated Khartoum, Januaiy 28, 1883, in which 
 the false prophet announced the capture of that town, January 25,
 
 LETTER FROM THE MAHDI. 213 
 
 and the slaugliter of all their enemies, with the exception of the 
 women and children. " Gordon, God's enemy," said he, " who 
 would not surrender, is dead Avith all his peoj^le." The letter 
 concluded by wishing Keremallah success in the war, by the help 
 of God. Keen and intense was the emotion at our camp upon 
 hearing this news. 
 
 The conquering troops from Rimo had reached the stations on 
 the Nile, evacuating the i\Iakraka district. Keremallah, encouraged 
 by the fall of Khartoum, which made the Mahdi master of the 
 Soudan, might have attempted a decisive blow, which would have 
 been supported by the natives. 
 
 On the 24th of April, 1885, whilst the incubus of this painful 
 event was still felt, and without waiting for confidence to be 
 restored to the frightened people, a general meeting was held, 
 which agreed, more or less willingly, upon accepting the proposal 
 of a retreat towards the South, without any restriction. 
 
 I was requested to be present at that meeting, which seemed to 
 me to be one of priests rather than soldiers, and I left shocked at 
 their childish behaviour in having assented to oblige the Governor. 
 After the voting, Emin went to the room in which the meeting 
 was sitting, and. with pleasant words, thanked and encouraged 
 everybody. The policy of equivocation commenced that day. 
 
 Emin left Lado April 25, and only Commander Rehan Aga and 
 I were on the landing-stage to wish him farewell, the whole affair 
 appeared to me to be an unlucky augury. During the insurrection 
 in the province, Abdullah, an Arab (the sou of a negress), named 
 also Niambara, formerly in command of the troops at Ndirfi, by 
 his influence, succeeded in gathering some seventy Donagla natives 
 round him, who had been of great use to the Government. The 
 military party tried their utmost to ruin Abdullah and his soldiers, 
 but were unsuccessful owing to his reputation for fidelity. 
 
 At the time when corn was scarce in the Nile stations, Abdullah 
 had rendered great services by sending supplies there, and when 
 Lado was to be abandoned and Goudokoro fixed on as temporary 
 quarters, he undertook the task of supplying that station with 
 provisions ; in fact, accompanied by seventy-two armed men he 
 arrived at Rejaf with 700 loads of corn, which he left there and 
 proceeded alone to Lado. Emin thanked him most cordially, 
 raised his salary, and promoted him. Meanwhile the commander 
 at Rejaf was trying to disarm and arrest Abdullah's soldiers, who 
 succeeded in defending their liberty, and retired to the mountains. 
 When Abdullah returned to Rejaf and was informed of the 
 occurrence, he fled during the night, joined his companions, and 
 nothing has been heard of him since. 
 
 Major Rehan Aga, whose sister was Abdullah's mother, offended 
 at the unjust action, which had caused the loss of his relatives, and 
 ascribing the fact of the tardy revenge taken on behalf of Abdullah,
 
 214 
 
 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 to the supposed friendship of the victim for Colonel Bachit Bey, 
 he did not conceal his anger in the interview he had with the 
 Governor. 
 
 A YOUNG BAIII "WOMAN. 
 
 His advanced age, honesty, and proved bravery, together with 
 his severe, but just and paternal manner towards his soldiers, had 
 won for him their esteem and affection.
 
 EMIN LEA VES LAjDO. 
 
 215 
 
 The sailing ship liad hardly disappeared from our sight (on its 
 way to Gondokoro with Emin), when a sudden murmuring and 
 babbling filled every hut. 
 
 "The Governor has fled," was the conclusion every one came to. 
 
 Next day it was decided, at a general meeting, not to leave Lado, 
 and to request the Governor to supply the fort with provisions, 
 and at the same time fresh works were commenced for the defence 
 of the station. 
 
 I at once wrote to Emin about the state of affairs, and begged 
 him to stop at Gondokoro in order to prevent further dissensions. 
 He did not listen to my advice, and by a hurried march to the 
 Southern countries caused the ruin of his own authority and pres- 
 tige, and drew a series of misfortunes upon himself. 
 
 Providence once more protected us ; the road was free and open 
 again, because Keremellah at that time had hurriedly left jNIakraka 
 and Amadi and was retreating to Bahr-el-Ghazal.
 
 ( 2l6 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 THE GRADUAL RETREAT TO WADELAI. 
 
 The Soudanese soldiers — The officers — The Egyptian school — The Governor's 
 difficulties — First misfortunes — Emin Pasha leaves Gondokoro — Promises — 
 Hawashi Effendi, Governor of Dufile — In the south — My departure from Lado 
 — The road between Lado and Muggi— The Bari — " The woman and the hyena " 
 — I decided to go — Emin's opposition — An ambush — I remain with my friend 
 — From Muggi to Dufile — The Madi — Measures taken at Dufil6 by the 
 Governor — Arrival of the steamer — A bad commencement — At Wadelai — Emin 
 derives solace from study — Impulse given to agriculture — New industries — 
 The Chief of the Lur — Customs and usages of the Lur people— C(/j;r /a moneta 
 — " The earth and the hare " — '• The lion and the boar" — Without commotion 
 — The Bari in rebellion — The great enchanter — His death — Victory — The 
 Dinka pay themselves — The soldiers cheer up — Re-occupation of the Makraka 
 district — Letters from the Arabs — Dr. Emin Effendi — Departure of Junker and 
 Vita Hassan — The letter from Nubar Pasha — General Gordon's death — Mo- 
 hammed Biri, the Tripolitan — War between Uganda and Unyoro — Starvation 
 and small-pox — The door shut — Past opiDortunity never returns — Need of 
 assistance — We are at the soldiers' mercy — My Calvary — Departure for 
 Unyoro. 
 
 The soldiers of Equatoria, who are mostly Soudanese, were never 
 trained for military work in the real sense of the word, and still 
 less for attaining the virtues of their calling, such as obedience, 
 self-abnegation, temperance, and respect to every one. The officers, 
 being taken from the body of the people, and not having undergone 
 any special training, did not enjoy any authority, prestige, or 
 esteem, and carried on the daily routine by dint of flogging, which 
 was inflicted very unjustly. In rapacity and immorality, these 
 officers and soldiers rivalled their masters, the Egyptians. Making 
 slaves, laying hands upon other people's property, and molesting 
 and ill-treating the natives, were ofiences practised even by those 
 of reputed honesty. In addition to this there were several officers 
 who had been banished to the Soudan in consequence of mis- 
 behaviour at home.* 
 
 This pestiferous element, a school of hypocrisy and \dolence, and 
 a daily obstacle to an}i:hing good, had a deleterious influence upon 
 individuals, as well as upon the whole mass of the people. 
 
 With reference to the civil employes, they were partly Egyptian 
 
 * With us officers who deserve punishment are committed to a fortress, but 
 with the Egyptians they are sent to Central Soudan, to the most difficult and 
 dangerous stations on the Nile.
 
 JOEMORALISING ELEMENTS. 
 
 217 
 
 and partly Copt ; and, not being different to the military, they ex- 
 celled in deeds of robbery, extortion, and slander. 
 
 The extent of the province and the difficulty of comniunication 
 
 A BARI WOMAN. 
 
 rendered a rigorous supervision impossible, so that most of the dis- 
 honest and indecorous actions of these men remained undiscovered 
 and unpunished.
 
 2i8 TEN YEARS IN EQUATOR I A. 
 
 There were no honest, brave, energetic, and loyal men who could 
 assist the Governor in his difficult undertakings, and he stood alone 
 in his struggles against the torrent of demoralisation. Emin had 
 repeatedly described these circumstances to me, and had several 
 times requested the aid of honest functionaries and a change of 
 troops and other officials. At that time affairs in the Soudan, and 
 especially those in the Equatorial provinces, were carelessly 
 managed. The country of slaves was not deserving of attention or 
 care, and Emin's wise representations remained unanswered, and 
 he was left alone to perform the duty to which he had dedicated 
 his life. He visited the districts of the territory, removed immoral 
 governors, and sent a number of slave-traders to Khartoum ; but 
 the extent of the province, and the pleasure with which Emin's 
 resolutions were annulled in Khartoum, were very serious obstacles, 
 by Avhich good results were rendered impossible. 
 
 Such was the position of the country when the revolution 
 occurred. War was added to the other evils ; the Donagla 
 rebelled ; the natives were disaffected in consequence of the ill- 
 treatment they had suffered, and if all was not lost, if the honour 
 of the province was saved, and if the country was preserved from 
 greater horrors, the cause must be attributed to a certain natural 
 feeling of dignity in the Soudanese soldiers, which led them to 
 defend a flag almost unknown to many of them, but to which they 
 had sworn to be faithful. Emin continued his retreat (which 
 public opinion obstinately stigmatised as a flight) from Gondokoro 
 towards the southern stations. The officers became anxious about 
 it, and at Rejaf they tried to persuade him to depart ; but he was 
 firm, and promised to fix the new seat of Government at Labor^, 
 and ordered at the same time that the houses required in that 
 locality on the eastern bank of the river should be made ready. 
 
 At Bedden, Kirri, Muggi, and Lahore, he gave the best en- 
 couragement for the future to the officials and soldiers; but not 
 having obtained their full confidence, he resolved to stop at Khor- 
 Ayn. From there he caused supplies of corn to be sent to the 
 battalions located at Lado and dependent garrisons, in hope that 
 the effervescence might cool down, and that he could effect the 
 evacuation of the northern stations in the near future. The posi- 
 tion was very perplexing, however ; and it was difficult to get out 
 of it without condescending to a compromise. 
 
 Hawashi, the commander of Dufile, was conspicuous for his 
 obstinacy, and an agreement was come to whereby he was pro- 
 moted to Major and his subalterns favoured with increased salaries. 
 It was the Governor's firm resolution to withdraw in the direction 
 of the lakes, but, still concealing his intention, he promoted an 
 expedition to Bor, with the object of strengthening the weak 
 garrison of that station ; also sending a reconnoitring expedition 
 towards Fashoda to obtain information about the Soudan.
 
 . LEGENDS OF TBE BARE 219 
 
 A troop consisting- of 180 men started from Bor, and had already- 
 reached ]3ahr-el-7iarafe, when serious dissensions arose upon the 
 question of discontinuing the expedition. The discontinuation 
 party prevailed ; but on the eighth day of their return march the 
 cohimn was surprised by an ambush, and was miserably annihilated 
 by the Dinka, only a few surviving to bring the sad news. 
 
 On the 9th of May, 1885, 1 departed from Lado, and on the 23rd 
 took up my abode at Muggi, in order to abstain from any inter- 
 ference in the affairs of the province, regretting the rapid succession 
 and accumulation of unpleasant entanglements ; and from that day 
 I retired to a private and solitary life. 
 
 The road which leads from Lado to Muggi follows the direction 
 of the river, with the exception of the first track, from Lado to 
 Rejaf, which takes a long curve to avoid frequent marshes. It is 
 approached all along on the west by the series of spurs proceeding 
 from the mountain chain which extends to the Niambara country. 
 Eejaf, Bedden, Kirri, and Muggi are inhabited by the Bari, a 
 laborious people, but the greater part of their wealth, which con- 
 sists of cattle, is kept in the pastures on the east bank of the river. 
 The road is good and easy enough, broken only by small water- 
 courses, which seldom, and only in the rainy season, impede the 
 passage, and even then only for a few hours. The whole territory 
 is subject to earthquakes, but in the memory of man no serious 
 damage has accrued from this. Even during my stay (June 1885) 
 a shock occurred ; there was an undulating movement, but the 
 people exhibited no emotion whatever. 
 
 With regard to character, the Bari are very different from the 
 neighbouring tribes, and stronger ; they are distinguished for 
 their independent spirit and jealous custody of their families. 
 Their national legends are handed down orally from generation 
 to generation. They contain the history of their moral and 
 intellectual development, and almost always bear testimony to 
 domestic virtues which they extol. 
 
 Amongst their numerous legends, I will quote the following : — 
 
 The Woman and the Hyena. 
 
 A man had two wives. One was gentle, and the other full of 
 gossip, so much so, that he was often angry. Rebukes and blows 
 were of no use ; therefore he resolved to get rid of her, and 
 banished her into a wood amongst the hyenas. There she built a 
 small hut ; but a hyena soon took up its abode with her, and made 
 itself comfortable, as if it were the sole proprietor. The woman 
 tried to expel it, but the animal not only took the liberty of eating 
 and drinking that which belonged to her, but when it had young 
 it compelled her to take care of its little ones. One day the 
 hyena ordered the woman to place some water upon the fire and
 
 2 20 TEN YEARS IN E Q UA TOR I A. 
 
 wait its return ; but as soon as it disappeared a sudden thought 
 flashed across the mind of the unhappy creature, and taking the 
 young ones she threw them into the panful of boiling water. Soon 
 after she ran away, and readied her husband's house in a breathless 
 state. He was sitting quietly at the door, with his spear in his 
 hand. The woman threw herself at his feet, imploring help, 
 when, behold ! the angry and foaming mother-hyena arrived, to 
 avenge the death of her young, and approached the woman in a 
 threatening manner. But the husband quickly thrust his spear 
 into the animal's heart, and stretched it upon the ground. This 
 lesson was a good one for the wife, who became reasonable, and 
 from that day led a happy and cheerful life in the bosom of her 
 own family. 
 
 I was but little convinced of any probability of a solution 
 favourable to the Southern provinces, and it was rendered still more 
 problematic by the dissensions which were on the verge of 
 breaking out between the troops and the functionaries of the 
 province. 
 
 After the result of my last efforts, and considering that the 
 CTOvemment were continually changing their minds and con- 
 tradicting themselves, and that it was neither convenient nor 
 opportune for me to interfere, I wrote to Emin telling him that it 
 was my intention to withdraw from the province, and take a north- 
 east route twards Fadasi. Without either discussing the dangers 
 or hopes for the futm*e, I begged him to allow me to take away a 
 certain quantity of beads and a little brass wire from the Govern- 
 ment stores. He answered that he was unable to comply with 
 my request, in consequence of the great responsibility which 
 would rest on him if I were to suffer misfortune. 
 
 I answered, sending him a letter couched in such terms that, 
 should his supposition really occur, my letter would exonerate him 
 entirely, and I insisted on my request being granted. 
 
 At that time I was at Lahore, which offered greater facilities 
 and resources, when I received an invitation from Emin to an 
 interview. He had resolved to depart for D utile, and perhaps he 
 wished to consult with me. I readily accepted the invitation, 
 and, without disclosing my intentions, promised a definite answer 
 the next day. This delay was Emin's safety. 
 
 Having returned to Lahore, I was awakened during the night by 
 the commander of the soldiers, who informed me that an ambush 
 was prepared on the road between Lahore and Dufile, for the 
 purpose of killing the mother and daughter of Achmet Mahmoud, 
 Emin's adjutant. The Governor himself was also to have started 
 with that caravan, and had fortunately delayed his departure in 
 order to wait for my reply. The ambush was prepared for him, 
 and nobody else. The blacks appointed to the service of Dufile
 
 AT LAB ORE. 
 
 221 
 
 station were the accomplices, and Major Ha washi was the instigator 
 of the plot. Emin would not believe it then, but later on he was 
 convinced. 
 
 A YOUXG MADI NEGRO. 
 
 I did not lose any time, and went next morning to see the 
 Governor, forgetting my projects, and concentrating all my thoughts 
 upon my friend's difficult position. 
 
 Without opposing the decision of concentrating the northern
 
 222 
 
 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 stations, I demonstrated the necessity of conciliation, in order to 
 restore the jeopardised unity of the forces of the province. I 
 suggested temporarily fixing the centre at Kirri, until the soldiers 
 
 
 
 
 MADI NEGKO. 
 
 of Lado, Rejaf, and Bedden had retired into the southern stations ; 
 and Emin accepted ray advice, but in a few hours altered his mind. 
 Next morning (June 23, 1885) I followed him to Dufile.
 
 MUGGL 
 
 223 
 
 Muggi looked very picturesque : it is situated on the top of a 
 hill, whence the view extends over the underlying country. On 
 the plain, the Nile flows at tremendous speed amongst the rocks 
 scattered in its bed. In the distance a series of blue lines on the 
 slopiuo" ground marks the course of the streams flowing amongst 
 
 MADI WOMEX. 
 
 hillocks and fertile fields. The population consists of Bari. The 
 road which connects Muggi with Lahore is flanked by a chain of 
 mountains which extend south-east, and, by reaching the river, 
 cause a difficulty on some points of the road. Thick, stiff, long 
 grass covers the ground. On the east bank, dark thickets of syca- 
 more and tamarind trees offer a striking contrast, clothing the
 
 224 TEN YEARS IN EQUATOR/A. 
 
 hills, and exhibiting a lovely panorama, intersected by the majestic 
 river. 
 
 Lahore is reached after seven hours' journey, the first village of 
 the Madi, a people who in language more than habit seem to differ 
 from the Bari. The Madi tribe extends over a large territory 
 along the banks of the Nile, as far south as the neighbourhood of 
 Wadelai. 
 
 At about two hours' journey from Lahore is the river Ayu, which 
 is always full of water, even in the dry season. The small station 
 is at the foot of a group of hills, down which meander narrow and 
 awkward paths. 
 
 Elephants, lions, and leopards reign supreme over the bushes and 
 woods, spreading terror amongst the inhabitants, who, instead of 
 devising some plan for their destruction, only take precautions 
 against their attacks. 
 
 Not far from the station the road diverges from the river, and 
 penetrates the mountains of Ellingoa, whence, sometimes descend- 
 ing into the dry bed of a stream, flanked by stony masses, or 
 climbing a very gravelly path, which is more frequently entangled 
 by bush, the traveller at length reaches the top of the hill, whence 
 he descends to Dufile. 
 
 At that time this station was full of soldiers and people. The 
 former were stirred up by the prospect opened by the new organi- 
 sation, and the latter were continually occupied in bartering corn, 
 arachis, sesame, and tobacco, for beads and brass. 
 
 Giraffes' tails were a fairly good article of trade with the Madi 
 and the Shooli, especially in the Makongo markets. 
 
 Dufile is situated in a narrow valley, bounded on the west by 
 mountains, and on the south and east by the Nile. It presents a 
 dull appearance in consequence of its limited horizon, and also on 
 account of the aridity of its soil ; corn and vegetables are cultivated 
 in the vicinity. 
 
 The compromise, the foundation of which was laid at Ayu station, 
 was definitely settled here. Emin was very desirous of reaching 
 Wadelai, and getting out of an atmosphere which, to use his own 
 words, was emitting an offensive barracks odour. However painful 
 the new position was for him, he accepted it without a murmur. 
 He removed Achmet Mahmoud, his adjutant, dismissed the Yice- 
 Governor, Osman Latif, and even allowed Major Hawashi to preside 
 over the audit office. 
 
 On the evening of June 26, 1885, the steamer Kliedivc arrived 
 from Wadelai with the Governor of that station on board, bringing 
 us the homage of his proffered services, and at the same time news 
 of a misfortune. 
 
 Owing to accumulations of herbs, which are usually carried by 
 the first swell and current of the river to a certain depth below the 
 surface, and are easily caught by the screw, the ship had to be
 
 o 
 
 < 
 
 < 
 o
 
 DUFILE. 225 
 
 stopped from time to time, in order to remedy the inconvenience 
 and free the machine from the entwined material. During one of 
 these operations, the signal for starting was given before the lad 
 who was cleaning the screw had finished his task ; a shock to the 
 steamer and a cry signified that the poor youth had been horribly 
 mangled. 
 
 Having left Dufile on the 28th, I went to Wadelai, where the 
 Governor arrived on the following 10th of July. Business became 
 very active : the station was extended in order to meet the require- 
 ments of the new Government residence, and a trench was dug all 
 round as a defence. Emin made himself comfortable, sought solace 
 in scientific study, encouraged agriculture, and manufactures. The 
 land was divided into fields, and these were sown with corn, vege- 
 tables, and cotton. The loom went on weaving; the shoemaker 
 strove hard to complete his work with insujBBcient or improper 
 tools ; and the cauldron which was to supply us with soap and 
 candles boiled on unceasingly. Tranquillity was prevalent all 
 over our station, and the comparatively improved circumstances 
 inspired us with sanguine hopes for a still better future. The head 
 of the Government acted as a friend to every one ; the Lur confi- 
 dently brought their produce to market, and Emin's presence, while 
 re-assuring the natives, at the same time elicited the respect and 
 good conduct of the soldiers. 
 
 The station called Wadelai was named after a man of tall stature, 
 and with such adipose limbs that he was deformed, and almost un- 
 able to move. He lived amongst his numerous women, fond of 
 quietude, and a stranger to war. He was a renowned beer drinker, 
 a universal rain enchanter. The Lur people, who are of common 
 origin with the Shooli of the opposite bank of the river, do not 
 share the warlike proclivities of the latter, but are peaceful, good 
 husbandmen, and particular custodians of their cattle, which they 
 rear in a careful manner. They are particularly fond of beads ; 
 some adorn themselves with shells, plait their hair, colour it red, 
 and either shape it into bunches or let it loose. They also wear 
 necklets and bracelets of iron or dogs' teeth, and clothe themselves 
 with cow and goat skins tied to the left shoulder. Hunting is not 
 eagerly pursued by them, although their country is full of large 
 game, such as elephants, hippopotami, and buSaloes. 
 
 The use of cowries as money and ornaments is very general in 
 Central Africa. I quote from the Esploratorc, vol. vii. 
 
 " When Ibu Batuta, a native of Berber, and the greatest traveller 
 who ever wrote in Arabic, visited the Mali or Melle country in the 
 fourteenth century, he found a shell called cowrie (cypria moncta) 
 was used as money, and he says that neither in China, Central 
 Africa, nor any other part of the world visited by him had he ever 
 found this shell used for such purposes except iu a part of the 
 Indian coast. 
 
 P
 
 226 
 
 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 "The Cypria moneta may be considered as indigenous in the 
 Indian Ocean ;* it is also found in the Mediterranean and Atlantic, 
 but very rarely and in a somewhat different form. Now, how 
 could the use of the shell for monetary purposes be introduced 
 from India into a black empire of the Soudan ? How could the 
 transport be effected ? Certainly not by land, because, not only 
 would the expenses have been above the value of the shells, but 
 
 EMIN, THE LEARNED PA.SIIA. 
 
 also because it has been ascertained that the use of the cowrie as 
 money was first practised in the West Soudan, whence it was im- 
 ported to the Central part of that region. Then did a maritime 
 intercourse exist between India and the west coast of Africa pre- 
 vious to the fourteenth century ? And considering the enormous 
 
 * Especially in the Laccadi\c and Maldive islands.
 
 LEGENDS OF THE LUR PEOPLE. 227 
 
 quantity of cowries supposed to have been imported, enough in 
 fact to supply the general currency of the region, the only conclu- 
 sion we can arrive at is that the transport must have been effected 
 through the Niger." 
 
 The leniency of the rule caused the Lur people to lose some of 
 their natural shyness and mistrust, and they soon became loqua- 
 cious propagators of their knowledge ; and with great pleasure 
 related some of their popular fables, in which they acknowledge 
 the wisdom of their ancestors, the founders of their nation. 
 
 Here ai'e two of their legends as specimens : — 
 
 TJie EartJi and the Hare, 
 
 A hare once said to the earth, '• Why do you never move ? " 
 " You are mistaken." replied the earth, " I move more than you 
 do." " Let us try then,'" said the hare, beginning to run. But after 
 having gone a good way it stopped, certain of victory, and to its 
 great surprise saw the earth still under its feet ; and, having 
 repeated the experiment several times, it died through excessive 
 fatigue. 
 
 T/ie Lion and the Boar. 
 
 All the animals met together and decided to elect a king. After 
 having argued as to the propriety of placing the elephant on the 
 throne, choice fell on the lion, and he, having become king, for a 
 while lived peacefully with every one; but at last he was tired of 
 feeding on herbs, as all his subjects did. 
 
 "Why," said his councillors, "do you not try the taste of small 
 animals ? Their flesh is nice and tender." 
 
 It happened that the boar was ill, and, being unable to do homage 
 to the king personally, he sent one of his sons, but he did not return ; 
 he then sent another, and the same occurred with him. The father 
 became suspicious, and, having carefully investigated the matter, 
 cried out that the king was most ferocious, and fed on his subjects' 
 sons. From that day the animals abandoned the lion, and he has 
 waged war openly against them all ever since. 
 
 Days followed one another quickly, and without either good or 
 bad news. There were no rumours from without ; the internal 
 dissensions were not extinguished, but smouldering. Our existence 
 was dull and monotonous, and we were continually waiting a 
 morrow which did not come. Our thoughts were turned towards 
 the countries on the borders of two lakes. These were Unyoro and 
 Uganda ; but the trumpet of war sounded from the North, and 
 awoke us from this contagious intellectual drowsiness. 
 
 The Bari, after concluding an alliance with the Dinka, had 
 attacked Lado, Gondokoro, and Rejaf. The remorseless violence of
 
 228 
 
 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 ATTACK ON LADO AXD DEATH OF THE GREAT ENCHANTER. 
 
 the commanders, continual raids upon the natives, and the perplex- 
 ing position of the Government, which was well kiiown to every-
 
 THE ASSAULT ON LADO. 229 
 
 body, caused the alliance of these chiefs, who were destined to give 
 the death blow to the vacillating authority of the Egyptians. 
 Reinforcements and weapons were readily sent, and a fierce and 
 stubborn struggle for revenge and ancient rights began. 
 
 In October, 1885, the imposing body of besiegers, regardless of 
 death, threw themselves into the trenches of the fortress of Lado, 
 accompanied by the sound of trumpets and drums, as if they were 
 going to a feast. The rushes with which the besiegers advanced 
 made their victory appear certain, but a bullet from the ramparts 
 mortally wounded their leader, the great enchanter, who, pressing 
 feai-lessly forward, had already placed his foot upon the battle- 
 ments. He fell into the trenches with a cry of intense pain and 
 despair, and the people, echoing it, turned and fled precipi- 
 tately. 
 
 Lado was saved, and the war ended, but the Bari had to pay 
 for it, for the Dinka, exasperated by the death of their great 
 enchanter, stole all the cattle from them that they could lay their 
 hands upon. 
 
 The soldiery becoming exceedingly emboldened by this unhoped- 
 for victory, and considering themselves powerful and invincible, 
 not only decided to invade the stations of Kirri, Muggi, and Lahore, 
 but also to re-occupy the Makraka territory, in order to obtain the 
 corn required by the stations on the river ; and they proceeded to 
 reorganise the country in their own style, without asking advice or 
 the least assistance from the Governor. 
 
 But, as a consolation for the mournful events which nearly caused 
 the disruption of the province, messengers arrived, October 19, with 
 letters from the Arabs settled in Unyoro, and departed with our 
 answers to Uganda, November L 
 
 On December 28, other messengers came from Kabba E,ega to 
 express the king's desire of having a Government representative in 
 his country, and to inform us of his having granted permission for 
 the transit of the correspondence through Uganda, and he gave 
 those concessions because Dr. Emin Elfendi, now Governor of 
 Wadelai, visited him some time previously, and he had conceived 
 great esteem and friendship for him. 
 
 The favourable star, which seemed to be on the point of dis- 
 appearing, shone again, and, according to the king's wishes, Dr. 
 Junker, together with \'ita Hassan, physician of the province, 
 started for Unyoro, Jan. 2, 1885, in order to settle there. 
 
 The first step had been taken : the civilised world was not so 
 distant as before ; we should presently be able to open intercourse 
 with the English missions of Uganda, and our hopes were soon 
 realised. 
 
 On Feb. 27, a letter from Nubar Pasha, the Khedive's Minister, 
 reached Wadelai ; in it he requested the abandonment of the pro- 
 vince and a retreat to Egypt, xid Zanzibar, on the ground that the
 
 230 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 (rovemment had resolved (May 1885) to give up all its possessions 
 in the Soudan. 
 
 By a series of despatches kindly sent by the Rev. Mr. Mackay, 
 agent of the British Mission in Uganda, we heard further accounts 
 of General Gordon's lamentable death, and also of the principal 
 events Which had occurred in the civilised world, of which we were 
 completely ignorant. 
 
 Mohammed Biri (an Arab from Tripoli), who had rendered good 
 services to the International African Association, was the bearer 
 of these missives, as well as of some others from Sir John Kirk, 
 the British Consul at Zanzibar, in which the best means of effect- 
 ing the retreat were indicated. Emin Bey was invested with full 
 power by the Egyptian Government. This fact should have 
 warned and persuaded the most obstinate, but, on the contrary, 
 they continued indifferent or incredulous, and were unfortunately 
 too weak to make any effort towards the common safety. 
 
 Another disastrous event added to our calamity, for at the be- 
 ginning of March the war between Uganda and Unyoro was 
 declared ; that is to say, the door which had been open to us for a 
 short time was suddenly closed again. 
 
 Dr. Junker took the road to Uganda, and Hassan repaired to the 
 Albert Lake. 
 
 The war was waged without any decisive victories on either 
 side, and the death of the chief of the Uganda was the signal for 
 the cessation of hostilities, which had no sooner ended than star- 
 vation and small-pox put in an appearance. 
 
 It was highly important that the door which had been so 
 abruptly closed should be reopened. Thenceforth we were com- 
 pelled to abandon all hope of action, and to submit to the sad fate 
 of waiting for assistance, and considering ourselves fortunate if 
 we could only open a way of communication for obtaining news. 
 
 Indecision, timidity, and excessive prudence, had brought us 
 into a state of doubt and expectation, which deprived us of every 
 initiative. I resumed my plan (which was looked upon as rash) 
 of proceeding in the direction of Fadasi, for in presence of an in- 
 evitable disaster temerity is prudence. 
 
 But an opportunity once missed never occurs again ; and the 
 Governor was compelled, by the force of fatal events, to call up an 
 expedition, in order to open the road for himself and his fol- 
 lowers. 
 
 Instead of an immediate return, we had to submit to an uncer- 
 tain delay. Instead of selecting a free route, we were condemned 
 to wait long for one full of dangers. 
 
 The unfortunate words uttered in Lado bound us like a chain. 
 The soldiers alone could extricate us from our difficulties, but they 
 remembering the spectre they had seen, contemptuously declined 
 to do so. The safety promised to the whites only, joined to the
 
 I LEAVE FOR UNYORO. 231 
 
 project of abandoning the blacks, had rendered us helpless, and 
 placed us at their mercy. 
 
 Nevertheless, when Emin was anxious to resume negotiations 
 with Kabba Rega, from which he expected the most favourable 
 results, I, as a devoted friend, accepted the difficult commission of 
 representing him with the King of Unyoro. It was a Calvary, 
 but I did not hesitate to ascend it. 
 
 I left Wadelai May 20, on board the steamer Khedive, en route 
 for Kibiro.
 
 ( 232 ) 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 THE FALL OF KHARTOUM. 
 
 The carpenter of Dongola — May 1884 — A life of penance — The standard of rebel- 
 lion unfurled — Causes of disaffection in the Egyptian Soudan — The slave trade 
 — Raouf Pasha and his measures — A Babylonian banquet — Abd-el-Kader Pasha 
 — Defeat of the troops— Wise measures of the Governor — General Hicks' ex- 
 pedition — Ti sehil Allah — Trophies of human skulls — Osman Digna, chief of 
 the dervishes — Plans concocted in Cairo — General Gordon — His mission — 
 His intentions — Prestige of his name — Battle of El-Teb — Fall of Sinkat — 
 Surrender of Tokar — General Graham — Abandonment of the campaign in the 
 Eastern provinces — Tactics ; difficulties arising from the nature of the soil, 
 from the climate and temperament of the enemy — Gordon cannot leave Khar- 
 toum — Relief expedition under the command of General Wolseley — Bombard- 
 ment of Berber — Death of Colonel Stewart — Faulty division of the forces — 
 The Mahdi's exertions — Wilson before Khartoum — The catastrophe — The 
 soldier without fear and without reproach — The Geddal of the Mohammedans. 
 
 " Merciful God has put the sword of victory into my hands ; 
 and to prove to the world that I am the Mahdi, He has marked 
 my left cheek with a mole. In the confusion of battle, I shall 
 be led by the luminous standard of Azrael, the angel of death, the 
 exterminator of my enemies." 
 
 With these words the carpenter of Dongola, the hermit of the 
 island of Abba, Mohammed Ahmed, announced to the world his 
 divine mission to propagate Islamism and to found the reign of 
 happiness and justice. 
 
 In May 1881 the attention of the Egyptian Government was 
 turned to Mohammed Ahmed. Until then they had been pacified 
 by the illusion that it was a passing bubble of fanaticism and 
 religious commotion, which is often seen in the East, and, as 
 such, easy to master and extinguish ; but a warlike challenge of 
 this description had to be met very differently. 
 
 On the anniversary of the Feast of Ramadan, the lean and 
 squalid apostle who had spent a life of penance in the midst of 
 privations and fastings, confirmed his mission, by bafiliug, sword 
 in hand, all the efforts made to capture him, thus corroborating 
 his claim to supposed sanctity. 
 
 Abu Saoud was defeated, and Rashid Bey, who attempted to 
 check the triumphant march of the Mahdi, fell at the head of his 
 troops, who were horribly slaughtered. The Mahdi unfurled the 
 standard of rebellion at Jebel Kadar, in the Baggara region. 
 
 The causes of disaffection in the Soudan were numerous:
 
 THE MAHDFS VICTORIES. 233 
 
 the venality that prevailed in the appointment of functionaries, 
 the unjust and oppressive manner in which the taxes were levied, 
 and the preference accorded to the Egyptian element, fostered a 
 silent but sIoav agitation, ready to become an open revolt against 
 the brutality of the conquest and the hated oppression of the 
 Egyptian Government. 
 
 The suppression of the slave trade had dried up the source of 
 gain and spread misery through the country without producing 
 any beneficial result. It was still further increased by heavy 
 taxes. The feeling of hatred grew stronger every day, and the 
 following precept from the Koran was echoed in the heart of all 
 believers : " Kill those Avho wish to kill you. Kill them wherever 
 you meet them ; drive them away from the place whence they would 
 drive you, for the temptation of idolatry is worse than death," 
 
 Foil}', nay, madness, hastened the bursting of the tempest. The 
 Governor, Raouf Pasha, by a stroke of his pen had destroyed 
 General Gordon's heroic and intelligent work. The dismissal of 
 Soudanese employes and their substitution by Egyptians ; reduction 
 of the number of officers in the regular army ; excessive economy 
 in all public offices ; further imposition of taxes, and the sending 
 of a considerable sum of money to Cairo, were the beginnings of 
 his rule at Khartoum. 
 
 He was supposed to have propped up the crumbling edifice, and 
 his ears were delighted by the songs of praise sung by the native 
 poets in the midst of revels and concerts which were held in his 
 honour ; and when at last the cry of defiance and death roused his 
 dull mind, the hand of fate had already written the Biblical words 
 on the wall of the banquet-hall. 
 
 Raouf was succeeded by Abd-el-Kader Pasha (August 11). The 
 rebellion was at its height, and the situation was rendered worse 
 by the pompous and fallacious assertions which had been sent to 
 Cairo by Giegler Pasha and also by the inefficiency of the measures 
 taken by him. 
 
 On Jane 7, Yussuf Pasha's corps was surprised in a thick wood 
 near Mount Kadar, and completely annihilated. The Mahdi, 
 strengthened by the prestige of his victories, sent an expedition to 
 Sennaar, through the ford of Abu Zeir, took possession of the 
 north-west bank of the Nile, and occupied Kordofau. 
 
 Abd-el-Kader began the campaign with some success ; he reor- 
 ganised his troops ; retook El-Obeid ; liberated Sennaar from the 
 hordes infesting it ; and defeated the Mahdists at Duemme and Dara. 
 Mohammed Ahmed again fell upon El-Obeid with great fury, 
 cruelly slaughtered the garrison and inhabitants, took it, and 
 settled there, making it the base of his future operations. The 
 treason and defection of the chiefs had facilitated the victory. The 
 Mahdi had won the sympathy of the people and confirmed the 
 divine nature of his mission by deeds.
 
 234 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 Then tlio battle of Tel-el-Kebir occurred, which brought British 
 protection into Egypt. Colonel Stewart was sent to Khartoum to 
 ascertain the causes of the rebellion and to suggest remedies, and 
 was assisted in the work by Colonel Messedaglia, late Governor of 
 Darfur, under Gordon. The reorganisation of the army, plans for 
 the campaign, the preparations necessary to carry them out, were 
 discussed and settled with the full consent of the Governor-General ; 
 and the negotiations entered into with the natives led to a political 
 success. The battles of Mahatuk and Meshra-el-Dahi, and the 
 victory of Segadi soon promised the near repression of the insur- 
 rection in the Eastern Provinces. But Abd-el-Kader was abruptly 
 recalled to Cairo and Ala-el-Din Pasha appointed in his stead. 
 General Hicks was entrusted with the continuation of the campaign 
 in the Soudan, and he defeated the insurgents twice ; but, ignoring 
 Abd-el-Kader's plan of campaign, and the wise counsels of Stewart, 
 he directed his entire attention towards the reconquest of Kordofan. 
 He rejected the plan of operation upon Omdurman towards Dara, 
 supported by Messedaglia with sound military arguments, and 
 resolved to operate upon El-Obeid and along the valley of Abu- 
 Hableh, which lies between narrow passes continually dominated 
 by higher grounds. 
 
 The expeditionary force, consisting of 11,000 men, 500 hoi'ses, 
 and 5,500 camels, departed from Khartoum, September 9, and in 
 twelve days arrived at Duemme, after having suffered the loss of 
 a great many men and animals through the difficulties of the road 
 and climate. 
 
 The march was continued in two columns, one proceeding by the 
 main route, and the other, under Ala-el-Din Pasha towards Melbes. 
 Near Alloba, a detachment of Mahdists was defeated. 
 
 On November 2, General Hicks was suddenly assailed whilst 
 crossing a woody region (three hours' journey in length), but de- 
 feated the rebels, who were compelled to withdraw in consequence 
 of the resistance of the solid square of men. The want of water, 
 however, compelled the General to hasten his march, but Nov. 4, 
 both columns were surrounded, in the valley of Kashgil, by a force 
 (if about 100.000 armed men, who cursed and derided them from 
 the neighbouring heights with the cry Ti schil Allah, the fatal in- 
 vocation which preceded extermination. Ever}' effort was vain ; 
 heroism was powerless in presence of the iron wall which barred 
 every route. On the afternoon of the 7th, the attack was general 
 and furious, till at last it became a horrid butchery, and not a 
 battle. All the soldiers and the Generals themselves (Hicks and 
 Ala-el-Din) were put to the edge of the sword. Mohammed 
 Ahmed gathered the heads of his fallen enemies into heaps, as 
 trophies of war, and then retired to El-Obeid, forgetting, in the 
 ecstasies of religious ceremonies, to turn his victory to further 
 advantage.
 
 
 
 
 
 
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 GORDON APPOINTED GOVERNOR. 235 
 
 The news reached Khartoum, Nov. 19, and caused general alarm. 
 Divided counsels led to the wildest resolutions. The Prophet's 
 cause was really believed to be protected by God. The insurrection 
 gained ground, and the quietest tribes declared themselves in favour 
 of the Mahdi. Even in the Eastern Soudan fortune smiled on the 
 rebels ; the Hadendowa, who had rebelled at the instigation of 
 Osman Digna in the preceding August, seriously injured Captain 
 Moncrief's column in the neighbourhood of Tokar, and, Dec. 10, 
 they drove away the Egyptian troops, under Hassan Bey, who had 
 been sent to relieve Sinkat. Baker Pasha then took the command 
 at Suakira. 
 
 In Egypt, the situation of the Soudan Provinces was considered 
 hojDeless. Inability to subdue so formidable a rebellion was obvious. 
 The British Government advised, and the Khedive accepted the 
 proposal to withdraw all Egyptian functionaries and soldiers from 
 the Soudan, as well as all the individuals who were directly con- 
 nected with their Government, and the Christians of various 
 nationalities. Heroic advice, indeed, without even the probability 
 of success. The exodus of 60,000 persons upon a long journey, 
 through a poor country in a state of rebellion, with insufficient 
 means of transport and defence, would only have hastened the final 
 catastrophe. 
 
 General Gordon was appointed to carry out this difficult under- 
 taking. The man of genius, with a generous heart and firm faith, 
 the apostle of redemption, the soldier of mystical aspiration, with 
 the sword in one hand, and the Bible in the other. The liberation 
 of slaves and the defeat of God's enemies were first in his 
 thoughts, and he willingly devoted his life to the holy enterprise, 
 smiling in the midst of danger, heedless of the morrow. To 
 evacuate the Soudan seemed to him a manifest act of cowardice, 
 and he showed by his first acts that he meant to establish a native 
 Government. 
 
 At Berber, be proclaimed the independence of the Soudan, and 
 handed over the administration of Kordofan to the ^lahdi, remitting 
 all unpaid taxes and suspending the law about the repression of 
 slavery. 
 
 He reached Khartoum, February 18, 1884. With his knowledge 
 of military engineering he completed the defensive works of the 
 fortress, superintended the reorganisation of the troops, and took 
 measures for the supply of provisions. He took Colonel Stewart as 
 his collaborator. 
 
 The prestige of his name paralysed the action of the rebels. 
 Mohammed Ahmed dared not fight openly before he had 
 strengthened his position by secret activity. His complete inaction 
 during February, March, and April, inspired Gordon with hope; 
 he thought his triumph was predestined. Excessive confidence in 
 his own providential missions increased the fervour of his resist-
 
 236 
 
 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 ance, and encouraged him to give up all idea of evacuating^ the 
 Soudan. 
 
 But in the neighbourhood of Suakim the situation was going 
 from bad to worse. All Baker's attempts to relieve the beleaguered 
 garrisons of Tokar and Sinkat not only failed, but resulted 
 disastrously. Here is an account of the battle of El-Teb, in the 
 words of Colonel Messedaglia, who was present at it : — 
 
 GENERAL GOKDON. 
 
 "The expeditionary corps was composed of 3500 men, the 
 remainder having been left behind at Suakim and Trinkitat, to 
 garrison those places. They had four Krupps, two machine, and 
 two siege guns. But these were difficult to carry on account of the 
 salt pools, which, though open to attack, it was necessary to cross 
 for about two miles from the sea, in order to gain the interior ; it 
 was therefore resolved to construct a small fort south-west of the 
 pools, in order to protect the passage of the ordnance. 
 
 " On the morning of February 4, the troops had hardly drawn 
 up in marching order, when it began to rain heavily, and the air 
 became so dense that it obscured eveiything. Eight hundred 
 horsemen formed the vanguard, including the scouts ; then came 
 the artillery, together with the main body, the camels protected by 
 the Hanking companies, and then the rearguard. After about four 
 hours' march, the rebels began to show themselves laterally in
 
 BATTLE OF EL-TEB. 237 
 
 groups of forty or fifty ; we fired four cannou shots at them ; the 
 fog becoming thicker and thicker. 
 
 " In the neighbourhood of the wells of P]l-Teb, about 300 rebels 
 suddenly appeared on our left flank, and, soon after, another band 
 came upon our right, which compelled Baker to fall back, at the 
 trot, upon the main body. The noise of the fusillade, to which our 
 troops were unaccustomed, and the hurried retreat of the staff, 
 together with the vanguard, caused a panic in the expeditionary 
 corps, which (as the enemy were between the vanguard and the 
 main body) was increased by our soldiers firing upon one another ; 
 the camels added to the confusion. We had fallen into a clever 
 ambuscade. The rebels had dug rifle pits along the side of the 
 road, each of which was occupied by four or five men, who had 
 covered themselves with leaves and branches of trees, and in con- 
 sequence of the fog, the vanguard had marched past without 
 observing them." 
 
 It was impossible to form squares ; a hand-to-hand fight took 
 place round the wells ; numbers prevailed over valour, and Baker 
 with difficulty succeeded in reaching Suakim with a few followers. 
 
 On February 11, Sinkat fell into the hands of Osman Digna. 
 The brave garrison tried to break the ring formed round them by 
 the enemy, but failed, and all fell. The garrison of Tokar, 
 impressed by the terrible event, soon after surrendered to the 
 victorious rebels The relief corps under General Graham formed 
 to collect the Egytian troops in the territory of Suakim, and for 
 operating eventually in the interior of the country, numbering 
 5000 soldiers with the transport service, disembarked there, 
 February 21. The General marched to Tokar without delay, taking 
 the route previously followed by Baker, and at El-Teb inflicted a 
 memorable defeat upon Osman Digna, killing 2300 of his men. 
 But Osman Digna, being reinforced by the fanatical dervishes, who 
 were accompanied by a large number of natives, attempted a bold 
 and sudden attack upon the strong fort of Suakim, but was checked 
 at Tamai, with heavy loss. The British, although victors, did not 
 feel strong enough to proceed to Sinkat, and the campaign was 
 thus closed. The opening of the road to the Nile, xiil Suakim and 
 Berber, being considered impossible, the British Corps returned to 
 Suez. 
 
 The war and its developments in several combats, as well as in 
 other insurrectionary events, clearly showed how improper it was 
 to resort to the strategy of regular armies when a fanatical attack 
 is to be contended with ; and that, on the contrary, considering the 
 superiority of the weapons of a regular army, the discipline of its 
 soldiers, and the confidence which accrues from their military 
 training, quick tactics are advisable. 
 
 Slow movements encourage rebellious bodies, whose numbers 
 increase from day to day, and their defeat, for this very reason,
 
 238 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 becomes more difficult ; therefore, it is indispensable to attack first 
 and promptly, and, of course, with all the energy necessary. In 
 cases of this description, the charge of such an enemy is more like 
 one of cavalry than an attack of infantry, and the change from 
 defence to attack is often the cause of irreparable disaster. The 
 tactical formations resorted to in fights with an irregular army 
 must be such as to develop an extensive line of fire without inter- 
 fering with the compactness required to resist a charge. 
 
 One cannot precisely give any rule for attacking an enemy with 
 the main force ; one must be guided by the enemy's mode of fighting, 
 his moral strength, and his arms. The square presents indisput- 
 able tactical defects ; to utilise it thoroughly, small reserves should 
 be provided, read}" to rush to the succour of any salient points 
 menaced. Therefore, in presence of frequent and unexpected 
 attacks from agile and dexterous assailants, it is always preferable 
 to sacrifice mobility, rather than to run the risk of an immediate 
 and irreparable disaster. The muscular vigour of such men facili- 
 tates the rapidity of their attack ; therefore ground, easy of access, 
 is less favourable for sustaining the shock of a charge, and for 
 preparing counter attacks. The habitual tendency of cavalry to 
 follow up a charge always generates an injurious confusion, which 
 it is difficult to remedy, and which often results in a medley. The 
 arms of cavalry soldiers should be composed of lance and sword ; 
 the first being indispensable in the charges, the second in fightiag 
 hand to hand. But in these countries, in face of such enemies, in 
 the heart of a general insurrection, the greatest peril is surprise on 
 the march and sudden attacks. Hence, the most important maxim 
 to follow is — diligent preparation against surprise, an active, bold, 
 incessant, and intelligent service of scouts, and concentration of 
 forces, as their separation is always a cause of disaster. 
 
 The opportunity of a successful evacuation of the Soudan had 
 been missed by General Gordon, and he was hemmed in on all 
 sides. The British Government had submitted to the sad necessity 
 of giving him up, but public opinion and the press demanded the 
 preparation of an expedition to relieve him, and Mr. Gladstone 
 yielded to the wish of the nation. 
 
 An expedition was then fitted out, the best route discussed, and, 
 after a lengthy discussion, it was agreed to send a body of troops 
 by way of the Nile, under the command of General Wolseley. The 
 concentration of troops was effected in September ; in November 
 the General was at Dongola, and, December 16, headquarters were 
 transferred to Korti. Meanwhile, Gordon, being informed of the 
 siiccour sent to him, despatched a flotilla, under the command of 
 Colonel Stewart, in order to facilitate operations on the Nile. 
 Stewart repulsed the rebels' attack, shelled and destroyed Berber, 
 and steamed off towards Dongola with only one vessel, sending the 
 others back to Khartoum. But, having reached the Cataract of
 
 LORD WOLSELETS EXPEDITION. 239 
 
 Merawe, the strong current and an awkward manoeuvre hurled the 
 vessel in a wrong direction, and it was wrecked upon the rocks. 
 Colonel Stewart, the French Consul, and the crew were slaughtered 
 by the Arabs of Monasir. 
 
 The year I880 opened in the midst of great difficulties. The 
 concentration of troops had not proceeded with the rapidity ex- 
 pected. The necessity of hastening the march suggested the idea 
 of dividing th(^ forces. 
 
 The nature of the sandy plains caused many obstacles, the hosti- 
 lity of the natives great fatigue and delay. General Sir Herbert 
 Stewart took the road to Metemmeh, and General Earle the one to 
 Berber. 
 
 But the Mahdi had not been inactive ; he knew that the prestige 
 of his name and the triumph of his cause were on a decisive trial. 
 He reinforced Berber, and entrusted it to the care of Nur Angara, 
 a man of great courage and enei'gy, already known for his ribaldry 
 in Darfur. ^Metemmeh was fortified and garrisoned by numerous 
 troops, Kassala beleaguered, and the ^Slahdi himself directed the 
 siege of Khartoum. He knew that he could concentrate his efforts 
 on the Nile, and that there was nothing to fear on the Eastern 
 Nile, as he was protected by Osman Digna and his faithful der- 
 vishes. 
 
 The British defeated the enemy at Abu-Klea, January 17, 1885, 
 but were checked at ]\Ietemmeh, and were obliged to entrench them- 
 selves at Gubat. 
 
 Time pressed, and every delay might have proved fatal. Two 
 steamers were sent up the Nile, under the command of Colonel 
 Wilson, and on the 28th they were in sight of Khartoum, and were 
 received with a brisk discharge of musketry and artillery. The 
 town had fallen into the hands of the ]Mahdi, Mohammed Ahmed, 
 and Wilson was compelled to steam back. His two steamers were 
 wrecked upon the rocks, and he reached the British camp under 
 great difficulties, the bearer of the sad news. 
 
 On January 26, Khartoum was startled by the sudden clashing 
 of arms, heart-rending cries, people fleeing, and disorder on all 
 sides. The square by the river side, where the Governor's palace 
 stood, re-echoed with insulting fanatical howling. The rebels 
 demanded Gordon,. whom they called the enemy of God: threats 
 were followed by deeds of violence ; shots were fired, attempts made 
 to open the gates, murders were committed, and, in short, it was a 
 scene of hell. Treason was reaping its infamous reward, and tho 
 soldier without fear and without reproach was the victim of it, 
 abominably sold by the very men whom his large heart had loaded 
 with benefits. The palace gate was opened, and a man presented 
 himself wearing the noble uniform of a soldier, with his sword by 
 his side and a glittering array of decorations on his breast. That 
 man was Gordon. With his arms folded, he stopped a few steps
 
 240 
 
 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 from the gate, calmly raising his head, with a serene and placid 
 countenance. The majesty of the hero impressed even his blood- 
 thirsty enemies, and silence prevailed, but it was the last token of 
 respect received by the noble martyr from the rebels. A shot was 
 suddenly fired, and Gordon, hit on the forehead, fell as if struck by 
 
 GENERAL GOKDON's HEAD. 
 
 •lightning. His head was cut off, stuck on a pole, and placed at the 
 entrance of Mohammed Ahmed's tent ; his body was thrown into 
 the Nile. A dreadful massacre filled the unhappy town with horror 
 for several days. 
 
 The Mahdi had triumphed ; an undeniable proof of his sanctity, 
 the herald of his victory ; the Geddal, the Antichrist of the Moham- 
 medans, had been conquered and was dead. The kingdom of justice 
 and happiness was about to begin.
 
 ( 241 ) 
 
 CHAPTEE XX. 
 
 LIFE IN UNYORO. 
 
 Hostilities cease — The matanmre — The kino; shows himself — Waganda and 
 Wanyoro — Muanga and Kabba Rega — King Chua (Kabba Rega) — He re- 
 members his friend Emin — Juaya — His royal palace — -The morning greeting of 
 king and people — The king's favourite occupation — " Thou art a shepherd" — • 
 Simulated piety and manifest avarice — His sons brought up by shepherds — • 
 No profane eye is to rest on the king's cows — The milkers — Reception at an 
 audience — Object of my mission — The good Kategora — Covetous intentions of 
 the king — I speak with the king — Occupation of Tunguru and JMsua — Arrival 
 of Biri — The king yields — Hopes reposed in Biri — Kategora poisoned — " He 
 dies, he dies ! " — Abd Rehman made proud — Vexations — Kisa and Gumangi — 
 Emin believes in Kabba Rega's loyalty — The soldiers of Equatoria — Emin loses 
 a good opportunity — The Shooli rebels defeated and subdued — Pantomime of 
 the Lango — "We are thirsting for blood" — The dead fowl — The thiune in 
 danger— The queen-mother, a priestess and magician — The ceremony of ihe 
 mpango — Kisa of Muenghe — Rejoicings and dancing — Burning of Juaya — A 
 heap of ashes. 
 
 The sounds of war are liuslied, the enemy lias left the country ; 
 the timid Wanyoro return from the caves and woods, to which they 
 had fled at the first rumour of war, to their villages and fields, and 
 with discouraged eyes contemplate at every step the horrors of 
 devastation by fire and rapine, perjDetrated by the furious enemies 
 who had overthrown theii' country. 
 
 They anxiously seek for theh' hidden matamure (granaries), but 
 the magic power of their adversaries (as they believe) has dis- 
 covered and emptied them. 
 
 The spectre of inevitable famine overshadows the country, and 
 slaughter adds to it the contagious small-pox ; for the miserable 
 dead, according to their custom, lie unburied amongst the grass 
 that borders the roads, shamefully covered with dirty rags. But 
 the king has shown himself; he has emerged from the hiding- 
 place that has protected him during the war. He promises to take 
 vengeance for his injured country and to triumph over her enemies. 
 Meantime he invites his people to return to the works of peace. 
 Labour is resumed with fervour. Huts rise, villages are erected, 
 men plough and sow the land ; the herds return to their former 
 pastures, the natives take up the thread of interrupted trade. 
 
 Waganda and Wanyoro ! Two peoples who have a common 
 origin, language, and customs. Muanga and Kabba Eega, their 
 kings, are of the same lineage, both powerful and equally ambitious 
 and cruel.
 
 242 TEN YEARS IN EQUATOR/A. 
 
 Muanga, son and successor of Mtesa, a young man with a hard 
 lieart and warped mind, made it his study to destroy the little 
 j^ood that his father had done. The first thing he did was to reject 
 the counsels of the old ministers, and to place foolish and badly 
 disposed men in the chief offices. 
 
 After having caused Bishop Hannington to be assassinated, he 
 began a persecution of the neophytes of the English Church and 
 condemned them to death by hundreds. He ill-treated the mis- 
 sionaries themselves, and soon after made them practically prisoners. 
 He then madly entered into a war with the King of Unyoro, thus 
 increasing the misery and desolation of the country. A despotic 
 monarch, cruel, and of vile habits, the enemy of all good, and 
 hostile to foreigners, he did not hesitate to commit any enormity. 
 
 Chua, king of Unyoro (commonly known by the name of Kabba 
 Rega), a bitter enemy of the Egyptian Government, for years and 
 years kept the northern entrance of his kingdom closed, and, 
 affairs in the Soudan having gone from bad to worse, he suddenly 
 remembered Dr. Emin EfFendi, who once visited him, and who was 
 Governor of Equatoria. He did not remember this " friend," as 
 he now called him, when he was receiving and favouring deserters 
 from the Egyptian Provinces ; but .... ivory was in abundance 
 in the neighbouring station of Wadelai, and muskets and ammuni- 
 tion were in the hands of those soldiers, to whom every way of 
 escape was closed. 
 
 Chua is a negro, cowardly, suspicious, a procrastinator, and of an 
 irresolute spirit ; narrow-minded, false in speech, and ever yielding 
 to evil influences — a real compound of malice and cowardice. 
 
 Superstition and fear of the evil eye are strong in him, as in all 
 the blacks ; but if he perceives that any course of action may be 
 useful to him, he alters his mind, gives up his belief, and takes 
 any I'oad that is presented to him. 
 
 The spirit of the dead Kamrasi had guided him in the choice of 
 the site of his new residence, and, faithful to the religion of his 
 ancestors, he had settled at Juaya, predestined to be the capital of 
 his kingdom. 
 
 The royal mansion is entered by seven doors, each of which is 
 reserved for a special caste of persons ; among these are the door 
 for the inhabitants of the district ; for the Marjnoro ; for the 
 Wahuma shepherds ; the door for visitors from other countries 
 resident in the realm ; and lastly the door for the inpango, specially 
 used by the Mabitu or the members of the royal family. It is in 
 this section of the palace — the largest and most sumptuous — that 
 human sacrifices are prepared. 
 
 Every day at sunrise it is customary for the king, attired in a 
 traditional habit, head and feet bare, covered with a large mhugu 
 (kind of toga) fastened with a knot on his left shoulder, to receive 
 compliments and felicitations from his relations, amidst the blare
 
 KING CHUA. 243 
 
 of trumpets and the beating of drums. And the people cheer and 
 bow to him before going to their daily work ; calling him a Sove- 
 reign, absolute and potent, beneficent father, dispenser of every 
 good, the jealous guardian of the rights of the State. 
 
 King Chua's favourite occupation, which absorbed the greater 
 part of his day and consoled him when his heart was afflicted by 
 the duties and cares (not always pleasant) of the kingdom, was the 
 administration of the numerous dairy farms in his possession. 
 
 In the hall of the Wahuraa he listened to reports upon the sani- 
 tary condition of his numerous cows, and the need of various 
 reforms ; he dispensed orders and prescriptions for sick animals, 
 arranged for gifts and sales, and was prodigal of praises. He 
 passed summary and severe sentences, which were often capricious. 
 
 " Thou art a shepherd, I am a warrior," said his brother, Kaba- 
 miro, to him (at the time when his father being dead, the country 
 was agitated as to his successor), " leave the care and affairs of 
 the kingdom to me, and I will give you all the flocks and herds." 
 
 But Chua wished for both herds and throne, and trafficked with 
 Solyman Dand, the slave dealer, against his brother's life ; Kaba- 
 miro fell, and the detestable monarch, attitudinising with a simu- 
 lated pity, refused to pay the price of the horrid compact. 
 
 Chua (the son of a Wahuma woman) has a special love for cattle 
 breeding; he possesses 150,000 large cattle, the result of continual 
 raids into the regions of Lake Ruitan, and to the preservation of 
 them he gives diligent care. His sons received their first ti'aining 
 from the shepherds, wearing the traditional Wahuma costume, the 
 skin of a calf finely dressed hanging from their backs like a small 
 mantle. 
 
 No profane eye must gaze upon the beloved cattle, and when 
 their presence in the road is announced by loud cries, those who 
 are there must either fly or turn their backs on the sacred train. 
 
 The milk is collected by special people, who are forbidden to 
 look at it, and it is carefully covered when sent or brought to the 
 king's dwelling. A milker suspected of bewitching the royal milk 
 was beaten to death, without any form of trial. The distribution 
 of it is made according to rules established by the king, who 
 assigns the quantities for his sons and wives. His mother has her 
 o^\Ti dairies over which she presides with an enthusiasm equal to 
 her son's. 
 
 At the gate, looking upon a large open space, where the people 
 usually assemble, he gives public audience, encourages his warriors, 
 pronounces sentences, and distributes alms, though sparingly. 
 
 The 2nd of June, 1886, I was publicly received by the king. 
 He wore a dress of elegant woollen cloth, finely worked and 
 ornamented ; his head was covered with a red tarboosh, according 
 to the Arab custom. He sat upon a large seat, placing his august 
 feet upon a very beautiful leopard skin. He was of colossal form,
 
 244 
 
 TEN \ EARS IN EQUA TOR J A. 
 
 of gigantic stature, with a full and expressive face, and a smile 
 more sarcastic tliau amiable. Keady of speech, correct in gesture, 
 Ohua awoke a sentiment of sympathy in whoever saw him for the 
 first time. His eldest son sat at his left hand upon a wooden stool 
 placed lower down. The great men of the kingdom formed a 
 circle like a crown, inside the hut, seated on the ground in the 
 Arab style of showing reverence, and covered with fresh papyrus.* 
 Behind the monarch was a silk drapery of Indian manufacture, 
 imported from Zanzibar, and from the rear of this the heads of 
 cmious boys occasionally protruded. Six young men of the royal 
 
 ATTEXDrXG CHUA's SICK CATTLE. 
 
 family surrounded the throne, musket in hand. I was seated to 
 the right of the king, at a few paces from him. The audience 
 was short, but cordial. 
 
 Wishing to profit by the good disposition of Chua, I formulated, 
 at the next audience, the demands of the Governor, who had sent 
 me ; they were a free and open road for the transmission of corre- 
 spondence ; the speedy conclusion of peace with Uganda, to obtain 
 which object I induced the Governor to inforce the payment of the 
 tribute ; power of obtaining goods from Uganda and from the 
 merchants of Unyoro ; a free passage for officials and armed soldiers 
 to Egypt ; alliance with Ntali, in order that we might be able to 
 
 * When the papyrus becomes dry or faded, it is changed.
 
 INTENDED TREACHERY OE CHUA. 245 
 
 use the road through the territory of Nkole, in case of the failure 
 of the negotiations with Muanga ; and the despatch of a represen- 
 tative to Wadelai. But the inveterate hatred that prevailed 
 amongst the Wanyoro since Baker made his armed appearance 
 there, kept the king's mind in a state of doubt and uncertainty. 
 
 The good old Minister, Kategora, tried to explain our pacific 
 intentions to him, but the military party, led by a man named 
 Abd Rehman, a Zauzibari, was in a state of agitation, and 
 
 concocted shameful plots against us. 
 
 ***** 
 
 The king consented to the transit of correspondence, but, at the 
 same time, kept back letters coming from Uganda. He granted 
 permission for the passage of the troops, providing that they were 
 sent at intervals and in small numbers. He stated that negotiations 
 with the King of Nkole were progressing favourably, but at the 
 same time expelled Nguro, the latter's representative, and sent an 
 envoy to Wadelai with friendly messages and promises to his 
 " friend the doctor," as he called the Governor. 
 
 The fears I expressed when dissuading Emin from taking the 
 road to the South and forming a friendship with Kabba Rega, 
 were confirmed only too soon ; it became necessary to frustrate his 
 wicked projects and to overcome our deceitful enemy by prudence 
 and watchfulness. 
 
 I entered into arrangements with some Zanzibari merchants who 
 were in the countrj'^, and by their means I was able to send and 
 receive correspondence from the English Missions in Uganda. In 
 this mannei" it came to my knowledge that Mohammed Biri had 
 left Uganda with goods, but had been prevented from entering 
 Unyoro by order of Kabba Rega, and that the king had made 
 proposals to Muanga to unite with him in arresting and disarming 
 the troops that would be sent through his country in small 
 detachments. "The Governor," said I to Kabba Rega, at an 
 interview on October 10, "has instructed me to tell you that he 
 does not now intend sending any soldiers away, and, instead, he 
 begs you to agree to the other requests that he made you through 
 me." 
 
 " Why will he not send the soldiers ? Perhaps the road to 
 Khartoum is re-opened," said the king, 
 
 " I do not know. He wrote thus to me, and I repeat his 
 message to you." 
 
 " All right," he concluded, with a forced smile. 
 
 " Therefore," I resumed, " he asks you to allow two military 
 stations to be built on the lake ; one at Tunguru, in the territory 
 of the chief Sunga, and the other at Msua, subject to Kisa." 
 
 "What do you want to do on the lake?" he asked. 
 
 " To concentrate the soldiers from the Northern stations, who 
 are in daily peril of being attacked by the insurgents of Khartoum."
 
 346 TEN YEARS IN EQUATOR I A. 
 
 " But in this manner yon would render yourselves masters of my 
 territory," said Cliua. 
 
 " Quite the contrary ; our stay will be short. We shall 
 leave upon the first favourable opportunity, and you will not only 
 become the master of the countries of the Shooli and Lur, but 
 also of the storehouses, well filled with ivory, iron, and brass ; 
 the two steamers will shortly be your property, and you will be in 
 a position equal to that of the Waganda, and Cabaca will be 
 inclined to Makama.* And now tell me what point has your 
 treaty of friendship with Ntali reached ? " 
 
 " A favourable one ; the road by Nkole will soon be opened." 
 
 " But Nguro is gone, sent away (I am told) by you," I said. 
 
 " That is false. I have every possible interest m the success of 
 this affair. The Arabs will be able to bring me rifles and powder ; 
 very difficult things to obtain at present on the confines of Uganda, 
 in consequence of the evil disposition of Muanga." 
 
 The wicked king spoke falsely, but with rare tact guessed at 
 matters in his own interest. 
 
 " Well, do not trouble yourself about us. For our interests, the 
 Uganda road suffices ; and that you have generously conceded 
 to us. But why do not the messengers arrive ? It appears to me 
 impossible that Mackay should not be interested in our favour, 
 after the promises and assurances given by him to us." 
 
 " It is that rascal of a Muanga who has put obstacles in the 
 way of the departure of the messengers. But have the Arabs 
 never delivered letters or brought you any news ? " 
 
 " No. Without your permission I would not venture to avail 
 myself of their services. We need not resort to Arabs after having 
 received your word as a king — that is a sufficient guarantee for us." 
 
 " Yes ; and rely on me. I am the friend of Emin Bey," he said. 
 
 ''Then you will grant me my requests." 
 
 •' From this instant I will do whatever my friend requires. You 
 may occupy Tunguru and Msua. I will send orders to the chiefs 
 to provide grain for the soldiers who are to be established there." 
 
 " I have another favour to ask you," I said. 
 
 " Speak ; I am ready to do all that you wish." 
 
 " Biri left Uganda two months ago for this place. He is detained 
 on the confines of your kingdom by your people. Give orders that 
 he may be allowed to come here," I said. 
 
 " And how could you know that Biri is at Kudurma ? " 
 
 " I know it." 
 
 " Who told you so ? " 
 
 " No one," I replied. 
 
 " That is not possible." 
 
 " It is very possible. Listen to me. When Junker left us, he 
 
 ■^ Cabaca is the title by which the King of Uganda is known ; Makama is that 
 given to the King of Uuyoro.
 
 CONVERSATION WITH CHUA. 247 
 
 promised the Governor that he would send us our necessary goods 
 by Biri. Therefore, by this time it is not only probable, but certain 
 that he must be very near us." 
 
 " But Biri is sent by Muanga to bring trouble into my kingdom ; 
 he shall never put his foot in it," 
 
 " You are wrong ; he must come. We are here in consequence 
 of the formal promise that you have made us ; we expect that you 
 will completely fulfil it." 
 
 " It is the merchants that will not admit Biri, and I cannot 
 oppose them. I have too much interest in preserving their friend- 
 ship," said Chua. 
 
 "It is that villainous Abd Rehman who will ruin your country 
 by his fatal influence.'' 
 
 " I am king ; I command, and have no need of any one to advise 
 me as to what I shall do," he declared. 
 
 "The truth, I know, wounds you, but you shall not on that 
 account prevent me from speaking it. Emin Bey wishes that Biri 
 should be allowed to enter the country. If you cannot comply he 
 will be obliged to take other means." 
 
 " And what ? " he asked. 
 
 " He will write to Said Barghash, to the Egyptian Government, 
 and what will you say then ? " 
 
 " But by what route can he send his letters if I close my roads ? " 
 
 " By a thousand ways. If he applied to you first, it would be 
 out of regard to his friend, and not because he was obliged to do 
 so," I replied. 
 
 " You are more wicked than Baker. It is impossible that Emin 
 would think of such things, unless you suggested them to him. It 
 is you who are ruminating on all these new ways of injuring me," 
 he exclaimed. 
 
 " Be not angry, O king. Emin may have personally a great 
 friendship for you, but he is the representative of the Egyptian 
 Government, and, consequently, has duties before which his personal 
 will must yield." 
 
 " And you wish that I, also, should yield ? " 
 
 " Yes, in your own interest. It is a sincere friend who speaks to 
 you. If I were otherwise, I should overwhelm you with civilities 
 to gain your care and attention." 
 
 " Biri shall be here to-morrow," he assured me. 
 
 " And will you let him go to Wadelai the same day ? " 
 
 '• I cannot promise. We will see." 
 
 " Follow my advice. Friendship for friendship. Emin is at 
 Kibiro* expecting him." 
 
 " After to-morrow he shall go to Kibiro, accompanied by my 
 faithful Monyara." 
 
 " So be it ; I thank you." 
 
 * On the eastern banks of the Albert Nyauza.
 
 248 . TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 Biri came, and on the evening- of that day (Oct. 12) he went to 
 Kibiro, where Emin awaited him with a steamer. A few days 
 before, the Governor had written, telling me that to return amongst 
 his people without Biri, would be, not only a grief to him, but a 
 grave injury. That night he wrote to me : " It is nine o'clock ; 
 but before retiring I will fulfil the duty of thanking you for the 
 signal service you have rendered me by sending Biri." 
 
 Emin, in the excitement of success, always ready to commit 
 imprudences, thanked the king and his ministers, thinking it a 
 stroke of fine policy to send courteous words also to the wicked 
 Abd Rehman, the perfidious counsellor of Chua, whom, in those 
 days, I (thanks to the help of the honest Kategora) had succeeded 
 in placing in a critical and inferior position. Would I had never 
 done so ! 
 
 The letter was the great news of the day. " The Governor 
 implored his support and withdrew his confidence from me, his 
 representative." The game paid, and the threads of the intrigue, 
 which were momentarily broken and dispersed, were reunited for 
 
 a more serious matter. 
 
 ******* 
 
 On Nov. 14, my loyal friend, the old Minister, Kategora, died 
 suddenly. The king sent a special messenger to announce the sad 
 news to me, and assured me of his unalterable benevolence. But 
 the public voice declared that Kategora had been poisoned. The 
 king, the very morning of the assassination, had said that hence- 
 forward he intended to govern by the lower classes. He would no 
 longer recognise the authority of the nobles. And while the 
 Minister was dying in agony, a step only from the door of the 
 palace, he made a party of boys sing the sad canticle (at that 
 moment ironical and cruel) : 
 
 " He dies ! He dies ! " 
 
 On Dec. 5, Biri departed for Uganda with a good quantity of 
 ivory to exchange for goods, leaving a hope of better times to come 
 in every mind. 
 
 But affairs proceeded differently in Unyoro ; the king and 
 soldiers, ancient enemies of the Egyptian Government, in the firm 
 resolution of putting an end (at a favourable opportunity) to their 
 unwelcome neighbour, with extreme levity (excited by greed for 
 the immense quantities of ivory and arms), stooped to pretended 
 compliances and friendly words, but now, terrified by the unexpected 
 resistance to their evil designs, they tried to withdraw these ill- 
 advised measures, and the most infamous plots were put in action ; 
 the grand master and leader in them being Abd Rehman, who in 
 the eyes of the king appeared the only wise counsellor that 
 could insinuate himself into the mind of the Governor and direct 
 intrigues without generating suspicion. Babedongo, leader of the 
 soldiers, having been recalled, prohibited the merchants from selling
 
 CHUAS INSOLENCE, 249 
 
 me goods, or holding any communication with me. A certain 
 Abubeker, who brought goods for the Government from Uganda, 
 was ill-treated, robbed, and driven back to the confines of that 
 country ; under severe penalties, the natives were prohibited from 
 selling me grain or eatables, and the ivory given to the king, as 
 a recompense for allowing the transit of Biri's caravan, was 
 insultingly rejected. 
 
 "The horns of my cows," Chua sent to say, "are much longer 
 than the elephant's tusks you have presented me. I do not know 
 what to do with them ; keep them for yourself." 
 
 " I regret," I replied, through the chief Bagonza, who was charged 
 with this ridiculous refusal, " that the king should take so futile 
 a pretext to distm-b our relations. I advise him not to follow 
 the suggestions of wicked men. As for the pieces of ivory, I will 
 keep them at his disposal." 
 
 Hostile measures were not confined to these insults. In a great 
 council of the chief men and soldiers, presided over by the king, 
 they went still further. 
 
 The chiefs of Tunguru and of Msua were summoned to Juaya. 
 Kisa and Gumangi were miserably killed, being found guilty of 
 having made an act of submission to Emin Bey ; the king's advisers 
 instigated the negroes to refuse grain to the soldiers ; they made 
 a secret and extensive propaganda of rebellion amongst the Shooli 
 and Lur ; they at length ventilated the project of attacking the 
 station of Wadelai, if the revolution triumphed ; and they were 
 masters of the territory of the Shefalu, at that time subject to chief 
 Anfina. 
 
 Besides these plots, which I had clearly explained to the 
 Governor, there was one that Emin, by a special messenger, should 
 be invited by King Kabba Rega to visit Unyoro and his Court, 
 under pretences of friendship and alliance. 
 
 It was not easy to dissuade the Governor from making this pro- 
 posed visit, and it was only after he had been convinced by others 
 of the treason designed against him that he lent faith to my disin- 
 terested exhortations. 
 
 Emin did not come, and I did not move. Our dignity and 
 interests required us to keep a footing in Unyoro ; to retire would 
 be folly — it would be to confess ourselves conquered, and to allow 
 the animosity of the blacks, hitherto curbed, to break forth to our 
 
 injury under the leadership of King Chua. 
 
 ****** 
 
 The presence of Mohammed Biri at Wadelai, and, still more, the 
 quantity of goods that he brought to the Government, produced a 
 salutary effect on the majority of Emin's soldiers. The negroes 
 have a philosophy all their own ; apathetic and passive by nature, 
 yet of childish enthusiasm, with a mind void of sensibility and 
 closed against every generous impulse, they are credulous even to
 
 2 5 o TEiV YEARS IN EQ UA TORI A. 
 
 superstition in all that strikes the imagination ; but suspicious 
 even to insolence in all that concerns material life. 
 
 It gradually dawned on them that the Government watched over 
 them, to deny it would be stupidity, and even the negroes dislike 
 being called foolish : the Viceroy sent not only a letter, but Biri, 
 a man of flesh and blood, not a mite, who, besides, brought cloth 
 and glassware. He had come through Uganda and Unyoro — 
 therefore the roads must be open — and he came with that soldier 
 Surrur, who had left with Dr. Junker, and who, after nine months, 
 reappeared fat, robust, and merry as of yore. 
 
 Resistance was evidently overcome ; in fact, proposals for a 
 general flight, of abandoning the Province and retii'ing by way of 
 Khartoum, would not have found followers — would have been 
 listened to with scorn. Some distinguished themselves, it is true, 
 by obstinacy, especially amongst the officers, but rather from shame 
 at acknowledging that they were mistaken than by conviction. 
 The first step was taken ; the thread that tied us to the future was 
 fastened ; and this fraction of the Egyptian forces could consider 
 itself safe, if a firm and vigorous hand had been able to infuse con- 
 fidence, to excite self-respect, and inflame all minds with a noble 
 desire for active operations. 
 
 But Emin did not wish, or did not know how, to seize the oppor- 
 tunity that presented itself of overcoming the differences that had 
 provoked the quarrels in the provinces. He refused to arrest two 
 factious officers of the first battalion, as I advised him, and he 
 would not remove the chief commander of the second — a man who 
 was generally known to be the originator of all the dissensions. 
 
 And this was bad for him and for all of us. His temporising in 
 the continual hope of a better day shook his authority as a com- 
 mander, more and more, and gradually brought him into general 
 distrust. Indifference slowly filtered through the line of soldiers 
 and officers, and obedience degenerated into a simple act of respect. 
 
 Chua did not hesitate to carry out the programme that he had 
 drawn up ; the signal was given, and the Shooli arose, but, defeated 
 at Fadibek, Fatiko, and elsewhere by the soldiers, who were always 
 ardent and ready for a fight, they paid for their unfaithfulness with 
 many victims. Protshamma, the soul of the insurrectionary move- 
 ment and of the insane attempt, fell also. 
 
 The end of the month of January was near. 
 
 " Not one soldier, or a single cartridge, shall you have to make 
 war against Uganda," I said one day to the king : he consequently 
 hastened the departure of Mabuzi, the envoy of Muanga, with gifts 
 and proposals of peace. And this consent to peace, which he gave 
 so reluctantly — 'extorted from him, as it was, by the perilous situa- 
 tion in which the unlucky defeat of the Shooli had placed him — he 
 resolvt^d to seal with an ironical pantomine. Parties of the Lango 
 people, their bodies tattooed in colours, performed sham fights,
 
 THE LANGO PANTOMIME. 
 
 251 
 
 rushing towards the embassy of the Waganda, who were present at 
 the tournament, as if in the act of sticking them with their lances 
 and long knives. Individuals with hair dyed scarlet rushed furiously 
 towards the king, crying, " We are thirsting for blood, give us one 
 of these villains." And the trumpets and choruses intoned the 
 well-known song, " King Chua is powerful. He has reduced to 
 slavery the Shefalu and the Waganda. He has obliged the soldiers 
 to pay tribute ; the only invincible ones are the Lango." 
 
 To which, with a marked and sonorous song, a youth of the 
 deputation of the Waganda responded, " King Chua, murder us if 
 
 "we are thirsting for blood." 
 
 it pleases thee ; cast us into the burning pile as thou hast done 
 with others — little we care. Cabaca lives to avenge us, his drum 
 already beats for recruits ; and — for the height of insult — when 
 Mabuza and his followers move to depart, let Chua cause us to be 
 followed by this tipsy crowd of excited savages." 
 
 A fowl, with its thi'oat cut, was found in the great dining-room 
 of the royal palace on the morning of February 8. The Arabs 
 were suspected of having secret intelligence with us, and two of 
 them were expelled from the kingdom. The report gained belief 
 that Biri had had charge of forming an alliance with Muanga in 
 the name of the Governor of Equatoria, and that soldiers were 
 already being organised to invade the country.
 
 2 5 2 TEN YEARS IN EQUA TORI A. 
 
 So many contrary rumours kept the mind of the king in constant 
 anxiety, already overwhelmed as he was by the disaster that had 
 befallen the Shooli, and inclined to superstition. The throne was 
 threatened with certain peril ; the spirit of his father, irritated, 
 perhaps, by his son's past misfortunes, does not watch over the 
 prosperity of the kingdom as he did in the past, but causes 
 mourning and tears ; it is necessary to appease him with sacrifices. 
 The queen-mother is consulted. She is a great priestess and 
 magician, and she decrees that they must have recourse to the 
 monstrous ceremonies of the mpango or axe, in order to avoid the 
 present evils and propitiate the favour of the defunct Kamrasi for 
 the future. 
 
 The articles that they employ for this rite are — a drum, round 
 which is wound a thick brass wire. It is also ornamented with 
 talismans, consisting of pieces of wood, to which are attributed 
 special magical virtues; a wooden stool covered with lion and 
 leopard skins ; an iron lance of about five feet in length, the 
 handle surrounded with brass wire ; and lastly, an axe (mpanffo) 
 with the helve of wood covered with leopard skin, and with brass 
 wire on the upper portion. 
 
 The tenth day of February passed. The sun hastened towards 
 the west — a blow was struck on the grand drum, deep and solemn. 
 
 In a moment songs ceased, all sounds were hushed, the market 
 was empty ; every one went to his own habitation ; the roads were 
 deserted and for three long days silence and sadness reigned 
 around. Only the slow dismal ring of blows struck at intervals on 
 the great drum told that they were fulfilling the mysterious rites 
 of the mpango, Avhich caused the miserable inhabitants to shudder 
 with fear. 
 
 It is the popular belief that the nuggarc sounds without being 
 beaten whenever the angry spirit of Kamrasi wishes to be appeased 
 by human victims. 
 
 The period of the mysterious rites was passed ; the sun approached 
 the end of his journey ; the great nuggarc gave forth its deepest 
 sounds ; cries of terror mixed with reverence echoed everywhere, 
 and spread from village to village, following one another like the 
 waves of the sea ; the miserable passers-by, the peaceful husband- 
 men, were seized, bound with cords, and their throats cut, as a 
 holocaust to the Great Father. 
 
 In Juaya ten unhappy creatures paid tribute with their blood to 
 this superstition. The rite is sometimes prolonged to the fifth day. 
 
 But the great sacrifice was not to be completed till the morning 
 of the next day, when the king stood erect in the hut of the mixmgo, 
 on the threshold of the large door of ingress, dressed in the 
 traditional habit ; a great mantle of stuff made from the bark of 
 trees, surmounted by a leopard skin hanging at his back and 
 round his neck ; his head crowned with talismans, his wrists, neck.
 
 THE GREAT SACRIFICE. 
 
 253 
 
 and ankles ornamented with large glass beads, and holding his 
 lance in his right hand. The members of the Condo and all the 
 nobles were arranged in a semicircle in the great court, sitting on 
 their little benches ; the guardian of the mimncjo stood at the right 
 hand of the king, holding high the fatal axe ; mujgare and a small 
 chair belonging to the grand rite were placed in the front ; a large 
 cup was on the ground a little way off ; terror and silence rested 
 upon the assembly. 
 
 The king made a sign with his head ; the great men rose, and, 
 bowing in sign of reverence, approached him ; he touched one of them 
 with the point of his spear on the shoulder ; the chief advanced 
 and extended his neck ; the horrid axe descended ; the blood 
 was caught in the cup ; the king with his finger sprinkled some 
 
 A HUMAN SACRIFICE. 
 
 of it on his own forehead and cheeks, then on those of the great 
 men ; grasping the vase he poured the remaining blood on the 
 drum and on the little seat. The sacrifice was complete ; nuf/r/are, 
 seat, lance, axe, and cup were raised and carried to the residence 
 of the queen-mother. At a sign from the king the sorrowing 
 parents took away the body of the unhappy Kisa, late chief of the 
 district of Maenghe. The drums and fifes sounded for a feast; 
 they killed oxen, opened jars of beer, and the drunken people then 
 danced and enjoyed themselves upon the ground just bathed with 
 
 the blood of the victim. 
 
 ****** 
 
 Men's minds being at ease, all thoughts and hearts returned to 
 their ancient boldness. Confident of success, the madmen blindly
 
 2 5 4 TEN YEARS IN EQUA TORI A. 
 
 relied on tlie security given by supernatural protection, and 
 again took up the thread of their enterprises. 
 
 When Ohua thought that Emin's approach was near, he 
 suddenly decided to abandon Juaya. 
 
 On the morning of March G, the king immolated a boy of 
 twelve years of age, with his own hand, in the interior of his 
 dwelling, and also a white heifer at the entrance, as a holocaust 
 to his dead father, to propitiate him and obtain his protection 
 during his journey. Amidst the sound of fifes and drums, dis- 
 charges of musketry, and the howls, rather than cries, of an 
 applauding crowd, he took a southerly route, carrying with him 
 his paternal Lares, the infamous instruments of the mpango. 
 
 After wandering about some time he stopped at Muimba, 
 planted his lance in the ground, and built himself a new palace, 
 as the oracle had commanded him. 
 
 The removal from Juaya was completed about noon ; the signal 
 for its destruction was given , columns of smoke and fire rose from 
 the abandoned royal residence, the conflagration spread from all 
 parts, crackling and sending up immense spires of smoke, broken 
 by flashes of flame that illumined the sky with a sinister light. 
 The sad spectacle was prolonged for two days, when everything 
 relapsed into obscurity and silence, and as the sole reminiscence of 
 past greatness there remained a mass of ashes.
 
 ( 255 ) 
 
 CHAPTER XXI. 
 
 REGION BETWEEN THE ALBERT AND VICTORIA LAKES. 
 
 Uganda and Unyoro — Watershed between the Victoria Nile and Lake ^Ubert — 
 The region of forests — ^Mount Sedgiomocoro — The Kafu, the Ngussi, the Msiri 
 — The peninsula of Magungo — Climate — Productions of the vegetable kingdom 
 — The fauna — Destruction of hyenas — The chimpanzee — Professor Giglioli and 
 the Troglodytes Schireinfurthii — Professor Reichart of Berlin — The termes 
 mordax — The different tribes of which the people of Unyoro consist — The 
 Kinyoro or language spoken in Unyoro— The francolin and the tortoise — The 
 leopard and the dog — King Chua tells the story of the Golden Book of his 
 family— The Wahuma — Customs of this tribe — From Juaya to Katua on the 
 Ruitan Lake — The Virica of the Vacongio — The Ruwenzori of Stanley — 
 Mountains of the Moon — Political government and administration of the 
 Soudan — The order of the Cotido — Sacrifices at every new moon — The magic 
 spirit that disturbs the mind of the Queen-mother— Suuna and the hundred 
 murdered — Bead culture — Three cudgel blows — Another locality selected — 
 Cutting off the hands and blinding^A decree against pipes — The ceremony 
 of the milk — Kamissua, son of Rionga, entrajaped — The king eats — The 
 Wanyoro — The Tiumha — The Mbugu — The ceramic art — Butter — The mer- 
 chants of Zanzibar — Customs of the Wanyoro — The great dispenser of rain and 
 his delegates — Funeral honours — King Kamrasi's sepulchre — The veneration 
 of the people and the capricious superstition of the despot. 
 
 The spurs issuing from the chain of mountains, called by the 
 ancients the Mountains of the Moon, descend and expand towards 
 the north, forming more or less extensive valleys, traversed by 
 copious streams of water, giving a prodigious fertility to this 
 region, which comprises the vast territories of Uganda and Unyoro. 
 Tropical forests — thick vegetation in the parts adjoining the lakes, 
 with innumerable watercourses, that through narrow valleys open 
 a road, amidst dense masses of papyrus, occupy the territory that 
 borders the Victoria and Albert Lakes. 
 
 In the inner country are tall grasses, thickets of reeds, exten- 
 sive plains on the summit of the hills, long valleys in a humid and 
 productive soil, where the ancient trees of the forest zone are 
 overshadowed by Palma dom, lofty sycamores, Euphorhia xcnefica^ 
 and varieties of mimosa. Wild thyme perfumes the hills, the 
 plateaux and the sides of the mountains are covered by thickets of 
 bamboo ; and on the land watered by rivulets, grow beautiful 
 Pistia stratiotcs and Nymphca lotus, with its rosy flowers, 
 
 The watershed between the Victoria Nile and Lake Albert runs 
 in a northerly direction, and the highest point is in the district of 
 Nusranduru, on Mount Sedgiomocoro. It was in this natural 
 fortress, with its rocky sides, that Kabba Rega was entrenched,
 
 = 56 
 
 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 when (after his father's death) he disputed the Crown with his 
 brother Kabamiro. The great watercourses that sweep the territory 
 of Unyoro have their source in this neighbourhood ; the Kafu, or 
 River of Death, that flows into the Nile near ancient Mruli ; the 
 Ngussi, wliich, traversing the forest of Kiriangobi, falls into Lake 
 
 SHOOH AVAKKIOKS. 
 
 Albert ; and the Msiri, that descends in a south-westerly direction, 
 by the territory of Muenghe, and then flows on to mingle its 
 waters with the lakes. The land advances, in a series of hills 
 shaped as terraces, towards the tablelands of Moranda, Nparo, 
 Juaya, Kiriangobi, and Kitana, and from this line, that curves 
 from a south-east to a north-west direction, it descends to the
 
 CLIMATE AND VEGETATION. 
 
 257 
 
 Victoria Nile, forming the peninsula of the Maguugo, that is in 
 the north-east extremity of Lake Albert. 
 
 The climate in this region is healthy and temperate. Rain falls 
 abundantly, and even in the dry season the earth retains sufficient 
 humidity, for the dews are heavy, and there are frequent light 
 
 jj.T* ■f'TOP: -tL: 
 
 -f*. 
 
 
 
 A .sllOUl.I FA.MILV. 
 
 breezes. The rains are often preceded by violent storms of wind, 
 almost always accompanied by thunder and lightning, and 
 occasionally by a fall of hail. The continual dampness is favour- 
 able to the abundant growth and perfection of vegetable produc- 
 tions, causing their gradual development, and bringing them to 
 maturity at the proper season. Maize, Elcusina coracana, Batata 
 
 R
 
 258 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 cchdis, Hclmia hulbifera, manioc, and various species of vegetables 
 thrive there, and the banana, the staple food consumed by the 
 people, yields abundance of excellent fruit. Tobacco (tabu) yields 
 a highly perfumed leaf when cultivated in elevated places, but one 
 of a rather inferior quality when it is gro^vn in low situations 
 and valleys. 
 
 Elephants are to be found in great numbers in the woods of Kafu ; 
 lions prowl round the cattle enclosures in couples ; leopards and 
 hyenas, besides jackals, crowds of antelopes, gazelles, and wild boars, 
 aljound in the table-lands and valleys. Colonies of spotted monkeys 
 make frequent pillaging incursions from the thickets into the fields 
 and banana plantations, but a superstitious veneration keeps these 
 quadrumana safe from the snares of men. 
 
 In one day, during a violent hurricane, I suffered the complete 
 destruction of a field of maize by a troop of Colohus qucrcza. I had 
 an opportunity of speaking to the king about this unpleasant visit, 
 and with an air of sincere regret he said, •' Do not kill any of those 
 animals ; it might bring misfortune upon you." 
 
 The grey parrots (Fsittacus erytliacus) fly in clouds, noisily scream- 
 ing daring most of the months of the year, and especially at the 
 time of their double migration. Multitudes of birds are to be seen, 
 such as the weavers that build hanging nests ; the lively swallows, 
 that seem unwilling to malce their return journey, as if tempted to 
 linger by the softness of the climate ; and the brisk wagtail, that 
 on our very threshold chatters news from the far off fatherland. 
 
 After the king had abandoned Juaya, the neighbourhood of my 
 habitation was changed into a meeting-place for crowds of hyenas. 
 The impunity accorded to monkeys I could not extend to these un- 
 clean animals, Avhose troublesome cries sounded like an augury of 
 misfortune. Their destruction was decreed, and a dead ass facilitated 
 the execution of the project. We injected strychnine under the 
 skin of the dead animal, and then abandoned it to the wild beasts. 
 For two consecutive nights the terrible cries of the dying gluttons 
 deafened the air, then silence followed, and calm was spread around 
 us. But the story Avas soon divulged, and the voices of the malig- 
 nant natives at length reached Uganda, with the addition that the 
 poison used in this instance had been given by me to King Chua, 
 in large quantities ; and the sale of salt at the markets on the 
 borders experienced a palpable diminution for some time in con- 
 sequence. 
 
 The woods of Farajak, on the table-land to the south of Kitana, 
 and the forest of Kiriangobi, that descends from Juaya to the lake, 
 at no great distance from Kibiro, and is crossed by the river Xgussi, 
 are a favourite abode of the chimpanzee. Nevertheless, the terror 
 with which this animal inspires theWanyoro preserves it from being 
 hunted as it is in tlie regions of the Mambettu and Sandeh, who 
 pursue the chase of it in a surprisingly energetic manner. This
 
 THE CHIMPANZEE. 
 
 '59 
 
 monkey enjoys royal protection, the natives say, and it would be a 
 crime to capture or kill it without an express order, because ages 
 ago it formed part of tlie human race. 
 
 According to Schweinfurth, the chimpanzee of Central Africa 
 
 A SHOOLI CHIEF. 
 
 differs from the Troglodytes niycr, and must be considered as a dis- 
 tinct variety, that, in process of time, has been developed by natural 
 selection in a given region. Professor Giglioli, of Florence, has 
 classified it as a secondary species, naming it Troglodytes Sehwein- 
 /urthii, in consequence of studies made on the skulls brought home 
 by that illustrious scientist in 1872.
 
 26o 
 
 TEN YEARS IN EQUATOR lA. 
 
 Professor Riechart, of Berlin, considers it identical witli the 
 nif/cr. The chimpanzee found in IJnyoro is the same as that in the 
 basin of the AYelle-Makua. From its resemblance to man it is called 
 niabantu. The country is, in addition, infested with voracious 
 
 A SHOOLI CHIEF. 
 
 termites, that suppl}- a kind of food for the population. At the 
 period of their transformation into winged insects, the natives 
 capture them by means of fire, in the same manner that they do in 
 the Mambettu region, with this single difference, that the chase is 
 more carefully prepared, by raising straw conical sheds on the hills 
 which swarm with them. The habit of feedinof on dried termites
 
 'fl\ 
 
 a
 
 THE POPULATION. 261 
 
 has been tlie custom throughout Africa since the most ancient times 
 As the divine Dante rightly says in the Inferno, canto xxix., 
 
 " And afterwards, as bards of yore have told, 
 The ancient people were restored anew 
 From seed of emmets." — Vary's Translation. 
 
 The population of the kingdom is a mixture of ]\Iadundi, 
 Magaya, Wahuma, Shefahi, Magungo, and Wanyoro. There is 
 also a strong colony of Shooli, emigrants from the territory of 
 Fatiko, who left their homes on account of the oppressions and 
 sufferings inliicted upon them by the soldiers of the Egyptian 
 Government. 
 
 The Madundi and the Shefalu are especially spread along the 
 banks of the Victoria Nile; the Magaya occupy the central table- 
 land in the districts of Juaya and Baganghese ; the AVahuma 
 form the prevailing populatiou of Muenghe ; and the Wanyoro, 
 who are, it is believed, the aborigines, form the majority in the 
 Nusranduru and River Kafu regions. 
 
 The language, which has had the triumph of overcoming or 
 mixing itself with those of so many peoples of various origin and 
 customs, is the Kinyoro, which, like the Kiganda^ appertains to the 
 family of African tongues called Bantu. The languages of the 
 Wanyoro and Waganda differ very little ; indeed, it might almost 
 be said that those two peoples have an identical idiom. 
 
 The Rev. C. T. Wilson (missionary) writes thus on the 
 subject : 
 
 " It is a composite idiom ; all the inflexions of the verbs and other 
 parts of speech are foimed by a variety of affixes and prefixes which 
 are united to the root of the word. In the case of the verb, there are 
 separate prefixes which represent the subject, the object, and the rela- 
 tive pronouns, which are then joined to tlie root of the verb, so that 
 what in most European languages would be a complete sentence, is in 
 this tongue expressed by a single word, and consequently to a European 
 ear it sounds like a very solemn language. The substantive is the 
 most important part of the idiom, there being several species of nouns, 
 each having its own special particle in the singular as well as the plural, 
 which is joined to the root of the adjective, pronoun, or verb ; thus, 
 that which most strikes a European who hears this tongue for the fu-st 
 time is the apparent uncertainty of the forms of the adjectives, the 
 change being at the beginning uistead of the end of the word. The 
 language when spoken is very soft, and resembles Itahan in sound, foi- 
 the vowels predominate, and there are no gutturals. Certainly, like 
 all the savage languages, it has no literatiu-e and no form of writing, 
 but we tliink that with an alphabet of twenty-four letters omitting 
 ' q ' and ' x,' all the words could be written." 
 
 I will here repeat two fables that I heard from the natives, 
 which will suffice to show their lively intelligence :
 
 262 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 TJic Fra?tcoli)i and the Tortoise. 
 
 " I am better off than thou." said the francolin to the tortoise ; 
 " I can both walk quickly and fly." " I congratulate you," replied 
 the tortoise. "' I draw myself along, and do my business in the 
 best way I can." 
 
 Now, it happened that some men out hunting set fire to the 
 grass of the plain. The increasing conflagration drew closer, and 
 made the circle smaller and smaller. The peril of the two animals 
 was imminent and certain. The tortoise drew himself into a deep 
 wet hole, made by the foot of an elephant, and was saved. The 
 francolin tried to fly, but the smoke and fire overpowered him and 
 he fell down and died. He who boasts fails when tested. 
 
 The Leopard and the Dog. 
 
 The leopard confided her three little cubs to the custody of the 
 dog, assuring him that he should have as a recompense for his 
 services, plenty of meat ; on condition, however, that he never 
 gnawed the bones. The arrangement went on very well for some 
 time, but one day the dog, yielding to temptation, gnawed a bone. 
 A splinter flew from it, and, striking a cub on the head, killed it. 
 He found it easy to deceive the mother on her return by bringing 
 the two survivors up to her to be fed, one after the other — the first 
 twice. 
 
 Soon the same fate befell the second cub. Then the dog, seeing 
 that his fault must be found out, fled and sought shelter with a 
 man, who promised to protect and defend him, on condition that 
 he did not leave the house. The dog promised, but a few days 
 afterwards, seeing a heap of bones at a little distance, he broke 
 his word and went out. The leopard, who had been in search of 
 him for some time to avenge the death of her cubs, sprang upon 
 him, killed and devoured him, and from that day the leopard has 
 not ceased waging war on dogs, and eating their flesh. 
 
 " I am the eighteenth king of my family,"' said the despot of 
 Unyoro one day to me. 
 
 The founder of the dynasty came from the countries beyond 
 Lango, and established himself in Uganda. An expert huntsman, 
 he taught the natives to kill the wild animals, and his fame 
 spread so far that at last the queen was seized with a desire to 
 see the brave stranger. He was a very handsome man, and the 
 lady fell in love with him, and did not hesitate (for his sake) to 
 poison her husband. On his marriage with her he ascended the 
 throne, and had two sons, to whom on his death-bed he gave, as 
 
 iseparate heritages, the kingdoms of Uganda and Unyoro. 
 
 \ And thus Chua asserted, on the strength of tradition, his Galla
 
 ORIGIN OF THE D YN A STIES. 
 
 '■^3 
 
 origin. That emigrations of this people had jaassed through the 
 lands of Unyoro is proved incontestably by the use (still common) 
 of words of the Galla language, especially in the sale of articles of 
 food. ' 
 
 The numerous family of the Wahuma undoubtedly had its origin 
 in the great tribe of the Galla. It comprises a good number of 
 people in Unyoro and Uganda, has acquired supreme power in the 
 
 i-HOIiLI VESSELS AXi) OKXAMEXTS. 
 
 countries of Nkole and Karagua, and has succeeded in subduing 
 the tribes of Vavra and Walegga in the countries west of Lake 
 Albert. Having a strong predilection for rearing oxen, and no 
 love for warlike enter[)rises, the Wahuma — though they have 
 adopted the language of the people with whom they find themselves 
 in contact — still in their habits and customs are faithful to the 
 traditions of their ancestors. Disdaining agricultural work, they 
 live on flesh and milk only, and their inclination for strong drinks, 
 common to all the Africans, is largely satisfied by the exchange of 
 their productions. 
 
 f
 
 264 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 They rarely marry a woman belonging to other tribes, whom 
 they despise, considering them of inferior race. 
 
 Their mode of dress — their hair constantly shaved, the use of 
 sandals for their feet, and several superstitious practices befoi'e 
 entering the house when they return after a protracted absence — 
 make the Wahuma a distinct class, and separate them from the 
 people amongst whom they live. The Wahuma women, from their 
 physical beauty, their moral qualities, and domestic activity, are 
 much sought after, especially by the chiefs. 
 
 The territory subject to King Chua beyond Unyoro extends to 
 the lands on the eastern side of Lake Albert, to the district of Mruli 
 and Torn, and stretches as far as Lake Kuitan, where a station was 
 erected for soldiers, who had the privilege of selling salt, which 
 abounds in the small lake of Kio. The district of Mboga on the 
 left bank of the Semliki is also governed in Chua's name, and 
 he receives tribute from the Lur of Melindwa, the chief of the 
 western mountains that run along the coast of Lake Albert. It 
 takes eighteen days to go from Juaya to Katua, the station estab- 
 lished on the Usongoro. The road runs down the western side of 
 the chain, and passes at a little distance from Lake Albert, nearly 
 jjarallel to it as far as Kieya, always in a southerly direction ; 
 there, by difficult roads on the heights, it stretches to Mruli, 'J oru, 
 and the lake. 
 
 The king made frequent raids into these unhappy countries, 
 once flourishing with abundant herds and tranquil homes. In one 
 that the chief Ireta made there in the early months of 1887, 
 10,000 head of cattle were carried off. The Wahuma shepherds 
 voluntarily followed the victors, with their families, preferring to 
 serve them in the capacity of cow-keepers, i-ather than to be 
 separated from their flocks. 
 
 It was at this time that I first heard of the white mountain with 
 two horns, the Virika of the Vacongio, theVaricampanga of the Wan- 
 yoro, the Ruwenzori of Stanley. Of measureless height, of dreadful 
 cold, there is peril of certain death awaiting him who attempts to 
 climb those masses, inhabited by a powerful and malignant spirit, 
 who keeps himself almost always enveloped in clouds ; thus, at 
 least, say those who return from Usongora, and they add that a tierce 
 people, the Vacongio, with a white skin and a peculiar language, 
 dwell on the rocks of the mountain, whom neither the men of 
 Unyoro nor those of L^ganda have succeeded in conquering. The 
 King of Unyoro rules this extensive territory by means of governors 
 appointed over every single district. The iiKujituru, as these adminis- 
 trators are called, are the chiefs of the various jurisdictions, which 
 they govern in the name of the king, supply soldiers in time of 
 war, and pay tribute in ivory, animals, iron, and food. To these 
 are subject the so-called matimgoli^ who have a limited power over 
 some divisions of the territory. The provinces must always be
 
 THE ADMINISTRATORS OF UNYORO. 265 
 
 represented at the Sovereign's residence, either by the chiefs 
 invested with their government or by their representatives, who 
 have the title of malcongo. 
 
 From amongst the marjnoro the king selects his own secretary, 
 the directors of the storehouses and armouries, the delegates who 
 represent him in the tributary provinces, the chiefs of the missions 
 appointed to the adjacent States, and the supreme commander of 
 the troops during war. 
 
 The magnoro may be either hereditary, in the case of good 
 services rendered by the dead father ; or elective, as a reward for 
 personal merits or from the special favour and benevolence of the 
 king. The hereditary government is, however, given to the one 
 amongst the sons of the late magnoro who offers the largest gifts to 
 the avidity of the monarch. 
 
 The magnoro may be invested with an Order, called that of the 
 Conclo, which places him on a level with the king's relations. The 
 members of this order are not subject to capital punishment ; they 
 enjoy public respect, are the Crown counsellors, and reside with 
 the Mahitu. King Chua, however, deviating from the usages 
 consecrated by tradition, pronounced sentence of death, even upon 
 these men, but he first practised the cruel cunning of degrading 
 them from their order. The ornament that distinguishes the Order 
 of the Conclo consists in a leather ribbon studded with shells and 
 various bead pearls, which descends from the top of the back of 
 the head to both sides of the face, and is tied under the chin. 
 
 The number of members is fixed at seventeen, from which the 
 victim for the grand sacrifice of the mpango (as an honourable 
 distinction) is selected. 
 
 The power and greatness of the Sovereign and the happiness of 
 the people of the kingdom, are believed to arise from the assistance 
 of invisible powers, to whose sway is added that of the soul of the 
 dead Kamrasi. 
 
 At every new moon human beings are sacrificed to propitiate 
 their favour and ensure happiness. These immolations are not, 
 however, distinguished by any particular display; ordinary business 
 is suspended for three days, and the rites of the new moon are 
 performed inside the palace, by the sacrifice of some victim of 
 propitiation and by killing out of doors, in the direction they wish 
 to frighten away the evil eye, a variable number of individuals. 
 They kill bulls on the king's tomb monthly, as a sacrifice, and 
 human victims are often added to them. 
 
 On occasions of the illness of the king or of the members of the 
 royal family, human sacrifices play an important part. 
 
 On the 8th of May the magic spirit, whose emblems encircle the 
 head of the queen-mother, angry, perhaps, on account of some 
 want of reverence, disturbed her mind and made her ill. Two 
 bulls, one white and the other red, were sacrificed, but in vain ; the
 
 2 66 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 spirit was not appeased ; and then human victims, in considerable 
 numbers, were offered. This custom had been practised from a 
 distant epoch. 
 
 Suuna, king of Uganda, father of Mtesa, being attacked with a 
 slight malady, doctored himself, and ordered a hundred human 
 victims of expiation to be killed daily to obtain his cure ; for 
 fifteen days (so long did the illness last) eveiy sunrise saw the 
 horrid butchery. 
 
 Fortune willed that death should put an end to these devout 
 practices. 
 
 The Sovereign, whilst riding on his Prime Minister (for such was 
 his custom), was entering his own residence upon return from a 
 journey, when he fell, attacked with apoplexy. 
 
 It was during the reign of Suuna that the first Zanzibari 
 merchant made his appearance in Uganda. He was incessantly 
 annoyed by demands for beads, and told the king one day that he 
 ought to cultivate them. The credulous monarch set to work, and 
 not perceiving any result, took counsel of the merchant again, and 
 he, having nearly concluded his business, and being on the point of 
 leaving, continued the trick, and recommended the ex|Dedient of 
 watering the field which had been sown ; but the day having 
 arrived on which the merchant hoped to proceed on his journey 
 home, the king refused his permission ; he repeated the request, 
 and was told that he should go as soon as the beads geiminated. 
 He was not at liberty to depart till the death of Suuna, and it was 
 lucky for him that nothing worse happened to him. 
 
 King Chua's Court has not an aristocratic appearance, such as 
 one meets with at the lord of Uganda's, but the iron hand of the 
 despot falls inexorably, whether justly or unjustly, on the persons 
 who have incurred the Sovereign's displeasure. Culprits, con- 
 demned upon bare suspicion, are barbarously slain by appointed 
 executioners. They secure the doomed man with cords round his 
 arms and legs, so as to oblige him to bend his back forwards ; and 
 then with a knotted club they inflict three heavy blows on the 
 temples with surprising dexterity, which kill the victim instantly. 
 The body is generally left on the place of execution as food for 
 wild beasts and vultures ; to only approach or stop to look at the 
 dead bodies constitutes a crime that is punishable with death. 
 
 In the early days of my arrival at Juaya the grounds round 
 my habitation were generally selected as the theatre of these 
 monstrosities. In the silence of the night I heard distressing 
 cries, the echo of three " blows of grace," and groans that were 
 slowly stifled. One morning seven dead bodies lay, horribly 
 disfigured, in the nearest fields. I went to complain of this to the 
 king. He told me that I ought not to be troubled by it, as these 
 people were not deserving of pity. I then made him understand 
 the disgust that the fact produced on my mind ; he smiled, but
 
 EXECUTION BV THREE BLOWS WITH CLUBS.
 
 THE CEREMONY OF THE MILK. 
 
 267 
 
 selected another locality for the horrible office. Thieves and 
 seducers of women he corrected by amputating their hands, or 
 burning the pupils of their eyes, not considering these crimes 
 worthy of death. 
 
 On the evening of February 22, 1887, a column of smoke rose 
 near the royal mansion ; the hut of a clever worker in the ceramic 
 art had caught fire through a lighted pipe having been left amongst 
 the dry herbage with which the ground of their habitation is always 
 strewn. The fire, however, was soon extinguished, but the following 
 morning a decree was issued against pipes and smokers. The 
 king's guards were occupied in breaking pipes and bastinadoing 
 smokers for fully three days, without distinction of rank ; the 
 potter, in consideration of his skill, was not awarded a very severe 
 punishment. 
 
 It is a mai'k of high distinction and of great trust to be ad- 
 mitted to the ceremony of the 
 milk. The members of the 
 royal family and the great 
 chiefs do not enjoy such an 
 honour. The having performed 
 heroic deeds in war, the hav- 
 ing shown an unalterable 
 fidelity to the king, and, still 
 more, the being in sympath}' 
 with him, are reasons which 
 may admit men to this highest 
 of all distinctions in the king- 
 dom. Night having fallen, 
 and the king's tables being set, 
 those invited to the ceremony 
 enter the grand hall of the 
 royal mansion ; the drums 
 beat, the fifes whistle the royal 
 march ; the king takes a vase 
 full of milk, drinks, and then 
 passes it on to those present, 
 who in turn drink also. When 
 the ceremony is finished the 
 doors are opened, and the 
 friends of the great men are admitted to the daily entertain- 
 ment of getting intoxicated on copious libations, the king setting 
 the example. 
 
 The milk ceremony was fatal to Kamissua, the son of Rionga, 
 Sovereign of Foweira, and tributaiy to the king of Unyoro. He 
 had hardly arrived at Muimba, having been invited to this great 
 honour, than he was arrested, conducted to Muenghe, and there 
 murdered. Superstition in Unyoro even extends to the food. The 
 
 AN UNYORO I'KIXCESS.
 
 268 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 king does not eat poultry ; and woe to the chief that does not 
 conform to a similar restriction. Moreover, he limits his dishes 
 to veal boiled with bananas, tclabun porridge, and banana beer, 
 fermented with germinating corn, which is called muenya. 
 
 The beating of drums announces that the king is moving 
 towards the room where the royal table is laid ; the flight of the 
 women and children from the royal court is general ; the 
 passages through which the king's dishes pass are deserted ; his 
 food is cooked by persons of tested faith, and is closely covered, in 
 order that the evil eye should not cast a malignant spell upon it. 
 
 During the Sovereign's repast the Prime Minister watches at 
 the door of ingress, turning his back upon the king while eating ; 
 and, as an honourable recompense, he is allowed to feed on the 
 royal leavings, seated upon the ground at his post of vigilance. 
 
 The population of Unyoro lively by their natural intelligence, 
 devoted and submissive to the king (more through fear than 
 affection), are not lovers of bold, warlike enterj^rises, but only of 
 a belligerent spirit in raids and pillaging. They exhibit their 
 gifts in industries and commerce. 
 
 Numerous traders gather at the market-places with their 
 produce ; and flour, sesame, tobacco, hides, iron, and ivory can be 
 purchased from them. A product largely consumed is beer made 
 of banana juice ; it is as necessary to the natives as food. In the 
 Juaya market they used to sell about a thousand large jars of it 
 daily. 
 
 The people are skilful tanners, and make dresses of skins that 
 equal cloth in softness. The tiumhc are mantles formed by joining 
 goat-skins, tanned, prepared, and sewn with such care as to present 
 the seams well covered with hair ; they also make these garments 
 with ox-hide, which they render soft and light, to serve as clothes 
 for the poorer classes. The working of such stufis requires patient 
 labour ; and it is executed with the greatest skill by means of 
 repeated rasping on the back of the skins, which are previously 
 moistened and stretched by means of wooden pegs on the ground. 
 The costume of dresses made of skin is taken from the Wahuma. 
 The traditional dress, however, that is still used by the greater 
 number of people, and always worn at the recurrence of festivals and 
 public functions, is made of the bark of the inhiuju or Jiciis latia. 
 This is how the missionary AVilson, already mentioned, describes 
 the mode employed to render this bark tit to use as cloth : 
 
 " They make an incision round the trunk in a part adapted for it, 
 and another two or three feet lower down ; they then make a longi- 
 tudinal cut between the two incisions, and lift the bai'k in such a 
 manner as to preserve the cylindrical form. Having a thickness of 
 about half an inch, they raise the surface with care, and the front part, 
 that is generally spongy and full of water, they place on a long plank 
 of hard and smooth wood, and there two or three men beat beat it with
 
 MANUFACTURES. 269 
 
 Iiainmer.s with great force and i-apidity. These hammers are of the 
 hardest wood and have theu- ends fluted, so that the stuff comes out 
 like morocco. The material stretches uuder this operation, and when 
 it has gained the required firmness it is hung up to dry. After that 
 they cut the edges carefully and mend the holes that by chance might 
 have been made by beating the bark. If the piece thus obtained is 
 not large enough to make a dress they join others to it. The trees 
 from which they have taken the Imrk are immediately covered with 
 banana leaves, which are left on it till a new bark has formed on the 
 wound." 
 
 Various are the qualities of the nibngiL cloth. The most beautiful 
 and the softest, of a dark red colour, comes from Uganda and 
 Msoga, on the right bank of the Victoria Nile ; the strongest is 
 made at Monyara, in the district of Mruli. Special artists attend 
 to this manufacture, the production of which, though it is not veiy 
 remunerative, nevertheless is a source of constant, if not great, 
 profit. The ceramic art has also clever artisans, who make vases 
 for milk, receptacles for water, cups, and most beautiful pipes, of 
 various shapes and great brilliancy of surface. The clay they use 
 is blackish or reddish, and the different colours vary in price, the 
 latter being considered the more valuable. lu the markets there 
 is plenty of butter, which is mostly bought by speculators, who 
 send it to Uganda. It is an item of business almost exclusively 
 belonging to the Wahuma, who are possessors of cattle, or 
 shepherds to the king or to the great of the realm. 
 
 Butter is made by shaking the milk in large empty gourds ; 
 it is preserved in a kind of wrapper formed by banana leaves 
 covered with clay, mixed with ox excrement. Tlie use of this 
 tegument is general, it is a substitute for baskets. Tobacco, beans, 
 sesame, corn, and salt are w^rapped up in it to facilitate their trans- 
 port. The coating of clay is only applied when they wish to gua- 
 rantee the preservation of the different articles. 
 
 The merchants of Zanzibar have greatly contributed to develop 
 the commercial tendencies of the natives, and the introduction of 
 cowries [Cypreamonctd) has facilitated and extended business. 
 
 Brought into the country by the search for ivory, they did a 
 good business in selling guns, powder, linen, and beads. They 
 ojDened markets, which put them in contact with the population, 
 and they knew how to acquire their confidence. Derogating 
 somewhat from their own dignity, they made friends with the 
 king, for whom they often committed secret misdeeds. 
 
 The various tribes scattered over the countiy, united by language 
 and customs, and forming the people of Wanyoro, dwell in villages 
 of no great extent, and like to build their abodes in banana woods. 
 Their huts, of a conical form, built of rushes and grass, have high 
 doors with a pent-house roof extending over them. The interior is 
 well provided with utensils for domestic use, and is divided into
 
 270 
 
 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 various compartments. The women control the house, and attend 
 to the work of the fields. The men, however, especially those of 
 the poorest class, do not refuse to share in the heaviest labour. 
 They are all devoted to drink, and a jar of beer is preferred to the 
 
 MUSICAL INSTUUMEXTS OF THE SHOOLl. 
 
 most sumptuous food. Chiefs of high rank eat alone, but the 
 greater part of the native men sit at the same boards as their 
 families. All make use of wooden spoons. As lovers of feasts and 
 dances, they seize upon every occasion for satisfying this passion, 
 and dance at births and marriages, and after having completed the
 
 BURIAL OF KING KAMRASI.
 
 A HORRIBLE FUNERAL. 271 
 
 rites of tht' new moon they dance for three days, and drink to 
 excess. 
 
 The Wanyoro are very timid, and shudder at rain and dew. They 
 never leave the house till the sun is high, and the roads in the hours 
 of early morning are completely deserted, as they are also when it 
 rains. They have a great respect for rain dispensers, whom they 
 load with a profusion of gifts. The great dispenser, he who has 
 absolute and uncontrollable power over the rain, is the king, but 
 he can confer and divide his power with other persons, so that the 
 benefit may be distributed in various parts of the kingdom. One 
 day a man arrived from the king, tired and breathless, and cried in 
 the streets and roads that they might begin to sow, for Makama 
 had ordered them to begin work in the fields at once. Rain had 
 been wanted for a long time, it is true, but the sky remained bright 
 and the air calm. Nevertheless, next morning rain fell heavily, as 
 if to confirm the supernatural power of the grand dispenser. 
 
 The burial of the dead is performed without a long mourning and 
 with little ceremony. They are interred near the house, of which 
 they are considered the guardians, and the family are comforted by 
 the thought that the dead man watches over the prosperity of the 
 relatives left behind. 
 
 Human sacrifices are not in accordance with the feelings of the 
 Wanyoro, and if they perform them at all, it is only in imitation of 
 a prerogative of the royal family. 
 
 When Kamrasi died, a large deep ditch or pit was dug in the 
 king's abode, destined to receive the remains of the dead when the 
 funeral rites were quite completed. Six of the dead monarch's 
 wives were placed in it, and the body was fastened to their legs. A 
 little boy kneeling at Kamrasi's feet held his pipe and tobacco jar. 
 The horrible group was arranged (without a murmur from the 
 unhappy victims), the pit was filled with earth, and on the tomb 
 rivers of blood flowed from murdered human beings, to appease the 
 dead monarch's soul, and render him propitious to the new despot. 
 He still watches over the greatness and prosperity of the kingdom, 
 and unhappy victims pay tribute for the veneration of the people 
 to the dead Sovereign, and for the capricious superstition of the 
 despotic heir.
 
 ( 272 ) 
 
 CHAPTER XXII. 
 
 DIFFICULTIES IN UNYORO. 
 
 A throne streaming with blood — Absolute power of the king — The hanassuru — 
 Their increasing influence, their recruitment, and their conduct — The king 
 desirous of pleasing — " Movement is life " — The way of deceit and treason — 
 A fatal dualism — Pain destroys illusion — The boldness of yore encouraged by 
 the paternal ghost — Alone in Juaya — Ahmed Akkad's good services — Willing 
 and paid informer — The Dinka boy brave and affectionate — Shooting the 
 thieves — An unpleasant nocturnal visitor — The expulsion of the merchants — 
 I am accused of plotting against the king — A guard on the Kiver Kafu — Biri's 
 servant arrested — Chua will not have me — Plan to attack Wadelai — Emin in- 
 formed of it by me — At Muimba, June 1, 1887 — Obese women — The steamers 
 Khedive and Nyanza on the Victoria Nile — Burning of the village of Rokora — 
 Destruction of barges — Anger of the king — Letters seized — Biri on the road 
 to Unyoro — Unavoidable danger — Fortunate meeting with my people — The 
 young ruler ignorant of the way to govern — The Waganda resume hostilities 
 — A Winchester rifle, psychical experiment — Joyful welcome — I obtain permis- 
 sion to remain in Unyoro — Fights — A deputation from Waganda — Oakibi and 
 Kauta — The troops of Waganda — They march past mj' house — The banassura 
 fighting — Emin at Kibiro — Alliance or invasion — My expulsion is requested — 
 I am to exchange blood with his son. 
 
 The acquisition of supreme power by violence and fraternal blood- 
 shed, and the intimate friendship of King Chua with the slave- 
 dealers, which had become perfect (not only because he was their 
 accomplice, but also from habit), were the motives which induced 
 him to entrust his safety to foreign and mercenary guards. More- 
 over, the necessity of maintaining his prestige by terror over a 
 population who had applauded the unfortunate Kabamiro, his 
 innate cowardice and abject customs, were additional reasons for 
 his confiding in strangers. Faith in the dynastic and national 
 traditions, and, still more, the loyalty of old Kategora and others, 
 had occasionally hindered imprudent changes of the ordinances of 
 the kingdom. This displeased the despot, who, having at last 
 given up all hesitation, was not ashamed to attempt the life of his 
 father's friend, his patient and affectionate adviser. 
 
 From that day the power of the hanassura in the Government 
 was assured. The owners of the laud were deprived of every 
 customary right, and the king was happy in exclaiming, " I reign 
 alone, since my ministers are the low and weak." 
 
 The institution of the hanassura was originally intended to 
 supply the king with a special guard, more as an exterior 
 •distinction than for the protection of the Court and his life.
 
 THE BANASSURA. 273 
 
 In Kamrasi's time, the tranquillity and safety of the king were 
 entrusted to the attention and devotion of the people to his sacred 
 person. Parties of armed natives watched the royal residence in 
 turn during the night, encamping round it with bright fires and 
 singing national songs full of the king's praise. The duty of the 
 hanassura was then limited to a service of pageantry and keeping 
 order at public assemblies ; to receiving ambassadors, and forward- 
 ing royal despatches to the chiefs of the State provinces. Most of 
 them were armed with lance and shield, only a few having muskets, 
 more as an honour than as a practical weapon of defence. Their 
 duties were limited to obeying the orders they received, and they 
 were subject to the ')nagnoro and matunr/oli, who were solely 
 responsible to the king for the administration of the provinces 
 entrusted to them. The hanassura were mostly strangers in the 
 country ; they were looked upon with contempt by the natives, and 
 had the character of being rather the king's slaves than soldiers of 
 the country. The hanassura were recruited from the deserters of 
 the Egyptian troops, from runaway slaves, and riotous youths from 
 the bordering Stales ; in this corps of brigands there are Waganda, 
 Bari, Shooli, Lur, Walegga, Lango, Madi, and Bongo men, by 
 whom the crown of Unyoro was supported, its subjects terrorised, 
 and the main strength of its combatants obtained. The young 
 king was an ardent admirer of the firearms carried by Baker's 
 soldiers, the more so as the troops of General Gordon distributed 
 along the Victoria Nile had shown their incontestable superiority ; 
 therefore he expended all the wealth of his treasury in acquiring 
 powder and guns, and opened the barriers of his own State to 
 the Zanzibar merchants, although adverse to them by jealousy and 
 superstition. 
 
 Strengthened by the new weapons, and surrounded by hundreds 
 of fusiliers, he felt convinced that he was the most powerful 
 monarch in the world. His heroes saluted him with discharges of 
 blank cartridge, and he meditated distant conquests, commanded 
 numerous raids for slaves and cattle, challenged the once-feared 
 Uganda warriors, and assumed the right of arbitrator amongst the 
 tribes of the Lake district. 
 
 The military party became preponderant in Unyoro, and the 
 hanassura were considered indispensable for the preservation and 
 grandeur of the kingdom ; their numbers were increased to three 
 thousand. They undertook to defend the throne and enforce the 
 laws ; thus, in the end, every one's life and property were at their 
 mercy, and their misdeeds were not only unpunished, but often 
 even openly defended. They boldly prosecuted the guilty, and also 
 the innocent in their eagerness to confiscate valuable property, and 
 to perform summary executions ; they were very audacious in their 
 raids, and did not tolerate any authority except that of their 
 worthy chiefs. They had neither feelings of honour nor love for 
 
 s
 
 2 74 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 the country in which they were strangers ; in war they were 
 rather unrestrained pillagers than brave soldiers. The king did 
 not give them any direct recompense for their services, except 
 supplying them with arms ; but he allowed them to appropriate 
 the goods of culprits, real or suspected. In this matter he exceeded 
 every limit of decency ; justice became a jest, impunity from 
 punishment was sold ; innocence and honesty were forced to pay a 
 high price for safety. Moreover, the king, compliant and sur- 
 rounded by the intrigues of the confederates, was as powerless to 
 oppose them as to escape from them, and continued to maintain his 
 ancestral glory by audacious and adventurous enterprises abroad, 
 in order to satisfy their ever increasing avidity ; and the circle of 
 blood that surrounded him and separated him from his subjects 
 more and more every day, increased enormously. 
 
 The guardianship of the king's dwelling by day and night and 
 of public ceremonies, as well as the supervision of Government 
 councils and administration of justice, were given up to military 
 influence, and the chiefs, who were rather companions in his 
 nightly orgies than subjects of the king, obtained the most insane 
 and odious orders from his half-intoxicated Majesty, which had 
 already been plotted in their private meetings. Chua acted as 
 they required, rejoicing only in displaying the pomp of his own 
 power and person to his people, who, faithful to the traditional 
 awe of his ancestors, not only applauded but venerated the king. 
 Movement is life, and even uncivilised nations are now and then 
 influenced by internal commotions of greater or less importance, 
 which gradually alter their usages and customs, and unconsciously 
 open the way for new ideas, which, even if partly erroneous and 
 inconsistent, change the character of the inhabitants and the 
 customs of the country. There is a tendency everywhere to part 
 unwillingly with old ways of governing and living, and if an 
 attempt at their revival takes place, it is not only ephemeral, but 
 crushes in its fall all the sophistry which was instrumental in 
 bringing it forward, so that only that which is good and true 
 triumphs permanently in the end. 
 
 Instruments of Providence, the chiefs are unconscious of the aim 
 towards which they move, and woe to them if they could perceive 
 it. In their superstitious ignorance they would recoil horrified ; 
 they rush on because their interest, vanity, or fear compel them. 
 
 When I went to Unyoro, the king, although he mistrusted us, 
 was bent nevertheless upon a more or less friendly policy, which 
 he considered as beneficial to the kingdom and himself. Taking 
 advantage of these propitious circumstances, we obtained permis- 
 sion for the arrival of the merchant Biri from Uganda, for the 
 ])assage of coi'respondence, and for sending a message of peace to 
 Kins' Muanga. If this state of affairs had continued, the barriers 
 of the kingdom would have been opened ; freedom of travelling
 
 . MILITARY INFLUENCE. 275 
 
 and its beneficial results would have been accomplished facts. 
 " But such friendship leads to ruin," exclaimed all the leaders of 
 the soldiers, and the king was perhaps glad of an opportunity for 
 returning to his old hatred and mistrust, sacrificing his Minister, 
 and adopting the policy of falsehood and treachery. 
 
 The military party resumed its influence in the management of 
 Government affairs, with the full approbation of the king, who 
 beo-an to think he had committed a great political error when, 
 forgetting the offensive conduct of the Egyptian Government, he 
 had clasped the hand offered to him by the Governor of Equatoria. 
 Then dualism, with its sad consequences, began to weigh heavily 
 upon the country. The evicted owners of land secretly plotted 
 against the soldiers, who trampled on them, and were ready to rise 
 if they only had an opportunity. But fear, and respect for the 
 sacred person of the monarch, who was not only alive, but reigning, 
 prevented them. 
 
 At the commencement of this sad period the most foolish pro- 
 jects were conceived and executed. But they all proved failures, 
 bringing shame upon the king's advisers and champions. The war 
 against Uganda was projected, but the landowners refused their 
 acquiescence. 
 
 " You have your Ijanassura and your guns," they said ; " you have 
 entrusted your defence, and that of your kingdom, to them for some 
 time ; now send them to war." 
 
 That was the answer given by the chiefs and people at the war 
 council summoned by the great nuggare. But war had become 
 irjevitable on account of the young king Muanga, of Uganda. 
 It was of short duration, but it sadly impressed King Chua's 
 mind. 
 
 One day, when the intensity of his anguish tore aside the veil of 
 illusions, he caused the following words to be conveyed to me : — 
 
 " My hanassura like raids, because they profit by them. They 
 are opposed to war, and contend that the territory should be 
 defended by the landowners. I am a native of the east, and I 
 would fain have returned to the country of my ancestors, if possible, 
 without waiting for the result of the war." 
 
 When the king spoke in this manner he was under the influence 
 of fear, discouragement, and doubt ; but as as soon as the danger 
 was over, he resumed his usual audacity. 
 
 "The spirit of his father," he said, had guided his warriors, 
 blessed the campaign, and still held his hand over him." 
 
 And, as if mad, he deviated farther still from the ancient mode 
 of governing, ruling by oppression and treachery, rather than by 
 reason, and to their united powers confiding the integrity and safety 
 of the State. 
 
 My isolation was complete (March 6, 1887). I remained alone 
 at Juaya with my domestics, two Government soldiers, and two of
 
 276 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 the king's hamissura^ whose instructions were to watch me rather 
 than to render me any service. 
 
 The die was cast. The king was crossing the Rubicon, and had 
 thrown off the mask. The party who had advocated execrable 
 measures in the Council of January 25 had triumphed. Thence- 
 forth, no more subterfuges, plotting, and ambiguous words were 
 employed ; but the rupture of every intercourse with Europeans, 
 and the aggressions on the Government territories, were manifested 
 openly. 
 
 King Chua's former policy, ambiguous, but timid and cautious, 
 was given up and replaced by the frivolous, rapacious, and profligate 
 proceedings of the banassura. 
 
 However, our affairs, in spite of so much animosity, were pro- 
 gressing favourably for the objects we had in view. At the begin- 
 ning of the year hostile measures against us had been agreed upon 
 by the principal people of the kingdom ; but my first care was to 
 assure the transmission and reception of our correspondence to and 
 from Uganda. In this attempt I received the courageous and 
 cordial co-operation of a certain Ahmed Akkad, an Arab from 
 Oman, who had settled in Unyoro for commercial purjDOses. 
 Thanks to him, we easily found messengers, who for rewards in 
 ivory, would take our letters to Mr. Mackay (agent of the British 
 mission), and faithfully bring us those from Uganda. Suspected 
 of intercourse ^\dth me, Ahmed Akkad was sentenced to banishment 
 from the kingdom. But it was easy for me to obtain the revoca- 
 tion of the sentence through the mediation of the wicked Abd 
 Rehman. 
 
 We did not purchase cloth and other goods in any considerable 
 quantities, for the merchants' prices were too high, and also 
 because Biri's caravan was on the point of entering Unyoro ; but 
 for our most urgent needs it was an easy matter to elude the vigi- 
 lance of the guards stationed even at night on the bank of the 
 stream which separated us from the quarter occupied by the mer- 
 chants. The most perplexing and important question remained — 
 that is to say, we wanted to learn the foreign news, and, still more, 
 to hear of the plots which were being concocted in the royal resi- 
 dence in rapid succession ; but among the natives, and even the 
 king's guards, there were volunteers and paid informers who under- 
 took the dangerous task, so that every plot against us came to my 
 knowledge as soon as it was projected, and before any attem]3t at 
 carrying it out could be made. Although I was compelled to 
 remain in my residence, watched by guards upon all sides, and 
 every action spied upon, I managed to avail myself of a courageous 
 Dinka boy, who, under the pretence of making some purchases in 
 the market, cleverly found a way of speaking to our friends, and 
 carrying out all our wishes. Being advised by him to grant inter- 
 views, I received nocturnal visits, after preparing the way for them.
 
 NOCTURNAL ATTACKS. 277 
 
 which was, I am sorry to say, by intoxicating my guards. I was 
 not only informed of all that was useful to our interests, but also 
 of the scandals and proceedings in the royal residence. As soon 
 as the Government settled at Muimba, the first nocturnal attacks 
 upon my dwelling began. On April 28 I complained to the king 
 about an attack which had been perpetrated the previous night, 
 but he answered, smiling, " Shoot the thieves ; night marauders of 
 that description are not my subjects." And as a confirmation of 
 the royal disapprobation, the following day had scarcely closed 
 when the unpleasant visit was renewed and repeated for several 
 months at various intervals. They were only interrupted at the 
 time of the Waganda invasion. 
 
 Having been informed that these nefarious attacks had been in- 
 spired by the royal Court, either to frighten me and cause m.y 
 departure, or, worse still, perhaps to remove me as a hostile spy, 
 conspirator, or enemy, I showed an indiflierent, and even smiling 
 countenance to those who troubled me with their curiosity ; but I 
 increased my precautions during the night, which was difiicult and 
 painful work, as it spoilt the leisure of my servants and soldiers, 
 but was chiefly carried out by myself with marvellous success, for 
 I frustrated no less than eight attempts. 
 
 It was a rainy night ; watch was to be kept by a young man who 
 was easily overcome by sleep. I usually went out of my hut at 
 different times (tormented by insomnia and the continued uncer- 
 tainty of impending danger), in order to test not only the vigilance 
 but also the fidelity of my sentry. Having seized my gun, I went 
 out in the open and approached the lad, who was sitting down 
 with his chin touching his breast, and having shaken him abruptly, 
 recommended him to be more vigilant. Suddenly the noise of a 
 heavy object moving close by, reached my ears. Turning round I 
 saw the confused outline of several lions, and first fired in their 
 dii'ection and then at random. Complete silence ensued. Next 
 morning we ascertained that a visit had been made us by a whole 
 family of lions. The poor lad, who had had such a narrow escape 
 of his life, smiled, but with his lips quivering with fear. 
 
 The king's peremptory order to depart from Juaya had not been 
 obeyed by all the Arab merchants, and this fact irritated the sus- 
 picious despot, whom his perverse courtiers succeeded in inciting 
 to fresh rigours and excessive interference. 
 
 On April 17, 1887, a detachment of hanassura invaded the mer- 
 chant's village, and drove away masters, servants, women, and 
 children with clubs. They then fired the houses, collected the 
 people like cattle, and with scorn and ill-treatment led them to 
 Muimba, where they were compelled to obtain pardon from the 
 royal clemency : these poor victims resigned themselves to the loss 
 of their wealth, in order to save their lives.
 
 278 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 On March 30, 1887, the king had accused me of conspiring 
 against him. I did not attempt to defend myself, but answered 
 his charge with a contemptuous smile. April 7, an anned expedi- 
 tion started for the conquest of the banks of the Victoria Nile, a 
 region subject to the chief Anfina, and abandoned to the ambitious 
 desires of the Unyoro king, by the impolitic concession of the 
 Governor of Equatoria. On the 25th, a guard was stationed by the 
 river Kafu to watch all arrivals from Uganda and seize our corre- 
 spondence. 
 
 On May 2, Biri's servant was arrested, stripped, and flogged on 
 the road as he was preceding his master, who was travelling towards 
 Unyoro. Nor was this all, for on May 11, the king sent a letter 
 to Emin full of charges against me, with the object of obtaining my 
 recall. And whilst, with pharisaical compunction, he appealed to 
 " his friend the Doctor," he ordered the chiefs Babedongo, Ireta, 
 and Makavaro to muster a large force in order to seize the steamer 
 at Kibiro, invade the Shooli country, and make a combined attack 
 upon Wadelai. But man proposes, and God disposes. 
 
 I had already informed Emin, some time pre\dously, of the auda- 
 cious plot, and he had consequently taken the necessary measures 
 for defence, and entered into alliance with various chiefs on the 
 banks of the Nile. Warned afterwards by me of the probable date 
 when the King of Unyoro's troops would cross the river, Emin at 
 once concentrated there a large number of regular soldiers and black 
 troops, placing the steamers on the Albert Lake, a little above the 
 mouth of the river. 
 
 On June 1, the king invited me to an interview at Muimba. 
 The large village was enlivened by an unusual bustle ; people were 
 walking about excitedly questioning one another ; caravans were 
 removing the household furniture ; women hurried away with sup- 
 plies of corn, and babies across their right hip (held by their hand 
 under the armpit), and herds of cows were on the road proceeding 
 northwards 
 
 I reached the square in front of the king's residence, and was 
 told by a hanassura^ that the Sovereign could not receive me at that 
 moment as he was busy making preparations for the journey of his 
 wives and children towards Mruli, on account of the appearance of 
 a Waganda army on the borders. The long procession of large 
 and small caravans occupied three hours in issuing from the king's 
 palace, armed men preceding and following each section of it. - In 
 the centre of the column was a palanquin, made of ox hide, fixed 
 on two poles, upon which one of the royal wives sat wrapped in a 
 bright coloured mantle of peculiar pattern, surrounded by the 
 women of the household and by female slaves carrying provisions 
 and kitchen utensils ; some leading little children by the hand, 
 or di-agging a dog or recalcitrant goat. It was a scene of 
 deafening uproar ; greetings and songs, confused beating of drums,
 
 MOVING THE KINGS FAMILY. 279 
 
 shaking hands, and faces saddened by transitory weeping, that was 
 suddenly succeeded by the habitual smile. 
 
 A crowd gathered at the king's door, and a cry of astonish- 
 ment was uttered by everybody, as a woman, almost a shapeless 
 mass of flesh, with immense limbs, and small eyes, sitting on 
 a sort of sedan-chair, larger than the preceding one, and 
 supported by stouter poles, was being carried across the royal 
 threshold by four stalwart men. She was one of King Chua's 
 obese women. 
 
 In the Courts at Uganda and Unyoro, the possession of obese 
 ^vives is considered a thing worthy of the royal splendour. Such 
 a luxury is considered as the emblem of wealth and as of extra- 
 ordinary comeliness, for the possession of whom the monarch is 
 particularly ambitious and greatly envied. This corpulency is 
 attained by a special diet, regularly administered both as regards 
 time and quantity. The accumulation of fat gradually proceeds 
 so as to render the person unable to stand up ; those who are 
 afflicted by it are compelled to walk on their hands and knees, and 
 even then they move with great difficulty. 
 
 After waiting some time, I was at last adr&itted to Makama's 
 presence. He was sitting upon a large chair, with a sulky 
 countenance, moving his feet restlessly, and convulsively grasping 
 the edge of the mantle which covered him from his waist to his 
 feet. 
 
 The courtiers, with bowed heads, hardly dared to look at each 
 other. There was a long pause, and then at last the storm burst, 
 and the king, forgetting the customary etiquette, addressed me 
 vehemently in Arabic, accusing me of conspiring with the 
 Governor of Equatoria to ruin him and his kingdom. 
 
 What had happened? .... The steamers had suddenly 
 appeared on the Victoria Nile, and the Expedition of the 
 Wanyoro, which had already commenced to cross the river, had 
 scarcely had time to retire. The natives' boats had been captured 
 and destroyed, the chief Eokora had been driven from his own 
 village, which was burnt, and some natives and hanassiora had 
 been killed by the soldiers ; these were the king's charges. The 
 fact was not new to me ; I Avas only astonished at the failure of the 
 Government Expedition due to the commander's want of ability. 
 The difficulty which surrounded us increased, and my personal 
 position might become very perilous. I concealed my thoughts 
 during the above string of charges, thanked the king for his 
 attention in giving me such news, and begged him not to arrive at 
 too hasty a conclusion respecting the facts, adding that the provoca- 
 tion to war might have been caused by Eokora's obstinacy in 
 remaining in a country which was not his own, and mentioned that 
 I myself had advised him several times not to risk difficult enter- 
 prises, and that the lesson which had been inflicted upon him might
 
 2 8o TEN YEARS IN E QUA TOR I A. 
 
 turn to his own benefit. Then he became still more gloomy and 
 sulky, his eyes being reddened with fury. 
 
 " Have you not usurped my territories of Tunguru and Msua on 
 the Lake ? " he asked. 
 
 " No, your majesty, we have occupied those two points with 
 your consent." 
 
 " And you have appropriated them." 
 
 " No., they are still part of your kingdom ; some day we shall give 
 them up, but we cannot do so just now. You gave us permission 
 to pass through Unyoro, and you have not only prevented us from 
 doing so, but have also intercepted our correspondence, therefore 
 the Lake route is indispensable to us." 
 
 " What you assert is not true. I have never interfered with your 
 letters." 
 
 " Why do you keep those seized at Kaf u by Babedongo a few days 
 ago, instead of delivering them to me ? " 
 " I have none of your letters." 
 
 " Why is Biri still on the border awaiting your order to enter the 
 kingdom ; an order a hundred times promised, but not given ?" 
 
 " As to the Turk, I have already taken the necessary measures ; 
 he will come in a few days." 
 "And the letters?" 
 " I have none." 
 " Yes, you have them." 
 
 " Well, yes ; but I will never give them up." 
 " Your declaration is enough ; I do not want the letters. One 
 day, perhaps, somebody more powerful than I will settle the matter 
 with you." 
 "Who?" 
 
 " Said Barghash, for example." 
 " I am not afraid of him." 
 
 " I moved in order to rise, but the king invited me to sit down. 
 He said he was sorry to see me angry, and would speak to his 
 minister about the letters. Our conversation then turned upon 
 various subjects, and I left when the sun was already under the 
 horizon. In order to reach Juaya, one had to travel for three hours 
 in the midst of lonely country and marshy valleys, covered with 
 cane plants. The king's persistence in advising me to delay my 
 departure, his whispering to some of his guards — the moving to 
 and fro of the latter — appeared to me a series of ominous signs 
 after the grave offence given by the events that had happened on 
 the Victoria Nile ; therefore, after having walked a few steps, I 
 begged the two hanassura who were to accompany me to return 
 and tell the king that I wished two vessels of good beer as a present. 
 The two drunkards leaped for joy, and quickly went to him. I 
 took advantage of their absence to have my two guns loaded, which 
 I had close at hand (carried by a faithful lad of mine and a Soudanese
 
 FLIGHT OF THE KING. 
 
 281 
 
 soldier), giving them summary instructions as to their beliaviour 
 along the road. Having arrived near a hill where the road, sloping, 
 was hidden by high grass and thick reedy ferns, leading to a diffi- 
 cult and entangled marsh, I heard the well-known voices of my 
 servants ; they were alarmed at the unusual lateness of our return, 
 and, being encouraged by one of tht* women, they all, soldiers, boys, 
 and women, came out in search of us, and we were lucky indeed ! 
 For, later on, one of the two hanassiira who accompanied us that 
 night said to that very woman, " Accursed sorceress, if thou hadst 
 not been alive, thy master would not be here to gire us the trouble 
 of busying ourselves for his sake."' 
 
 FLIGHT OF KING ClIUA. 
 
 Preparations for invading Unyoro had been in progi'ess for some 
 time. The present sent by King Chua did not seem worthy of a 
 great potentate's acceptance ; such at least was the opiuion of that 
 little tyrant of Uganda, who, with his usual precipitation, assembled 
 bands of armed warriors to invade, lay waste, and conquer Unyoro, 
 and take prisoner its Sovereign, who had cracked numerous jokes 
 about " the young man who was ignorant of the art of governing." 
 As long as the danger was distant the braggadocios of Unyoro 
 deafened everybody with their boasts and audacious schemes. 
 When they heard, however, that the Baganghese district was 
 invaded (June 9, 1887), their brag ceased as if by magic, and their 
 only thought was of saving themselves, their women, children, and 
 goods.
 
 282 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 On Juue 20 the king abandoned Muimba, and retired to Nparo 
 (not far from Juaya), on account of the aggressive march of the 
 Waganda. He then sent me several messengers, with a peremptory 
 order to prepare to retrace my steps towards the Government 
 provinces immediately. From the messengers' abrupt manner and 
 sardonic countenances it was easy to see what were the king's 
 intentions. I replied that I would not go unless the goods which 
 Biri had brought from Uganda, and the ivory in my premises, 
 were safely deposited at Kibiro ; but at 5 p.m. another messenger 
 arrived, bringing from the king an unopened letter, which the 
 Governor had sent a few days previously, and repeating the 
 order to depart from the kingdom, with threats in case I ventured 
 to disobey. He would not have any further intercourse with us, 
 " who," he said, " were good for nothing else than offering him 
 idle words of encouragement and compliments when his kingdom 
 was in danger." 
 
 It was a decisive moment, and hesitation would have been fatal. 
 I took my Winchester rifle and one hundred cartridges, and sent 
 them to the king as an opportune present, wishing him a speedy 
 and complete victory. This was an effort to gain a point. If the 
 king refused it the game was lost — the cloth and the ivory on the 
 road would have been forfeited ; but if he accepted it, we at least 
 gained time, and the continuation of the arrangement which 
 connected us with the civilised world, however imperfect and 
 precarious that might be. Next morning, before sunrise, I received 
 a visit from the same messenger whom I had seen on the previous 
 evening, and he invited me to go to Nparo at once, to meet the 
 king. I did not delay one moment, and was received most 
 cordially and joyfully by him. He thanked me for the gift of my 
 rifle, and added that it clearly showed the interest I took in his 
 success, and also that my intention to remain, while the Arabs had all 
 fled at the first rumours of war, convinced him of the Governor's 
 loyalty. He granted me permission to remain at Juaya, or to go 
 to any other place in his kingdom. I also obtained a messenger to 
 convey my letters to Wadelai, and the concession that Biri was to 
 travel to Kibiro, together with the provisions collected, and thence 
 to the residence of the Governor of Equatoria. We won once 
 more, and our numerous enemies might well bite their fingers. 
 But they had other matters to attend to, for the rapacious Waganda 
 were on the point of attacking them. 
 
 On the 22nd of June the king sent me a message, asking 
 whether I had any guns to sell him ; but I answered that it was 
 not becoming for me to act as a merchant, and sent him a good 
 percussion gun as a present. On the 23rd he retired to Guamirma, 
 whence he took refuge in the midst of the woods of Bidongo, near 
 ancient Masindi. On June 27th the first battles took place in the 
 neighbourhood of Muimba. There were numerous fusiliers. The
 
 A WAG AND A DEPUTATION. 283 
 
 blacks fled at the approach of hostilities, and the country became 
 deserted by its inhabitants. On the 29th, Muimba was abandoned 
 and burnt. On the oOth, and July 1, there were fights at Nparo 
 and on the road to Masindi, and on the 3rd the entire invading 
 army appeared at Juaya. 
 
 The column, which was a long one, descended the Moranda hills, 
 and passed in front of my residence, on which the Egyptian Govern- 
 ment flag was hoisted. TheWanyoro had suddenly ceased fighting 
 in the neighbourhood of Nparo, and had succeeded in deceiving the 
 enemy by means of a sham retreat. The Waganda then began to 
 look for King Chua, who was generally believed to have reached 
 the Euwengabi-Coanga forest, in the Kiriangobi territory, but on 
 their questioning me about it I confirmed their impression, which 
 I knew was erroneous. If I had chosen to put an end to the 
 tyrant's existence, a word or guesture would have been sufficient ; 
 but, although my life had been continually plotted against, I would 
 not act otherwise than as a loyal guest. 
 
 Next day aWaganda deputation brought the greetings of Oakibi, 
 their general.* Kauto, their chief, offered to escort me to Uganda, 
 but I thanked him and declined, though we entered into negotia- 
 tions for the occupation of Kibiro, and for a future alliance, should 
 Oakibi's arms eventually prove successful, and Unyoro be occupied 
 for a long period. The missionaries of Usukuma assured me that 
 on that occasion Kauto had received an order from Muanga to take 
 my life, and that I owed my safety to the numerous Waganda 
 Christians, who had been warned, and warmly entreated by the 
 Uganda missionaries to do their best to defeat that horrible machi- 
 nation. On July 5 the Wanyoro attacked the Waganda. There 
 were fights at Kibararo, Mount Sedgiomocoro, and on the banks of 
 the Ngussi, with varying fortune, but finally the Waganda marched 
 towards the Baganghese district, and, July 19, the kingdom of 
 Unyoro was clear of invaders. The Waganda army consisted of 
 about COOO men of all ages, from 15 to GO, with the greatest con- 
 trast of armanent and dress. There were the king's guards in their 
 white robes, with leopard skin and red cloth cartridge belts glitter- 
 ing, and heavy percussion guns, and the simple mountaineers armed 
 with bludgeons, whose only dress was a rug made of bark fibres, 
 hung round the loins. Between these extreme types, fancy an 
 innumerable variety of old guns, shields, spears, Avorn-out and dis- 
 coloured garments, and the traditional mantles of ox hide or fig 
 bark, glass ornaments and armlets, mostly consisting of ox or goat 
 horn, with the famous conjuring powder. This was the army of 
 the Waganda ; this multitude was divided into corps, each com- 
 manded by a chief, easily recognisable by his better attire and 
 finer ornaments, besides the nuggare carried behind him. Faithful 
 
 * The Waearda call their coinmander-iu-chief Kaiigao.
 
 284 
 
 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 to the idea of scattering themselves, in order to find food with 
 greater facility, they covered immense tracts of land in their raids ; 
 but their depredatory instinct caused them to diverge too far, so 
 that at the time of a fight most of them are distant from the spot 
 where it occurs. For their object is more to plunder and spread 
 misery than to struggle against the foe and acquire a reputation 
 for valour, so that they search the dwellings and the matamure^ 
 seizing as booty everything they can carry away, and burning what 
 remains, together with the huts. Goods such as tobacco or stuffs 
 
 MV NEGOTIATIONS WITH THK CHIEFS OF UGANDA. 
 
 they consign to the flames, and they scatter corn or pulse amongst 
 the high grass. They throw themselves upon the cultivated fields 
 and, having gathered, suflicient food for the day, they pull down, 
 upset, and destroy everything else ; therefore, starvation soon over- 
 takes them, and compels them to shorten the duration of an inva- 
 sion, thus reducing to nought whatever plan or bold enterprise they 
 have formed. 
 
 They are fierce in battle, but only as long as reserves are in the 
 rear ready to strengthen the weak and threatened positions ; for, 
 should they be unsupported or hard pressed, they quickly take to 
 flight. The death of a chief also has a discouraging effect upon 
 them. On the march, in camp, starting, and in the heat of a fight
 
 CHUA NEEDS AN ALLY. 285 
 
 the deafeninsf noise of the innumerable nugaarc inspires them with 
 courage. With such an army, it is obvious that the ambitious 
 dreams of the lord of Uganda, and his desire to possess Unyoro, 
 were very nearly hopeless. 
 
 Chua possessed more than one thousand guns, and they were in 
 the hands of his guards, the hanassura, who formed the army which 
 fought against the Waganda, because the so-called landowners, who 
 were only armed with a lance and shield, did not take part in it for 
 various reasons. The arms of the hanassm'a consisted of a large 
 number of Remington rifles, a few Sniders, and a good many per- 
 cussion muskets, either gathered from the deserters from the 
 Egyptian Government or acquired from the Lango, who had several 
 times defeated the soldiers. There were also some good breech and 
 muzzle loaders bought from Zanzibar merchants. 
 
 The ancient and traditional tactics of the Wanyoro are not to 
 undertake serious engagements, and not to attack the enemy in a 
 wooded country, but to prepare ambuscades in suitable places, and 
 then to harass him by sudden halts, in order to entice him to the 
 places where the ambushes had been laid ; but it cannot be aflSrmed 
 that the hanasstira practised such tactics successfully. Alarmed 
 by the excessive number of enemies, and irritated by the refusal 
 of the natives to join them, disheartened by their sufferings in 
 the recent invasion upon the borders of the Victoria Nile, and 
 still more impressed by the probability of being attacked in the 
 rear by the soldiers of Equatoria, their compulsory retreat of May 
 being still fresh in their minds — when the war-cry was raised 
 they did not, for these reasons, muster in full force, nor did they 
 behave in such a warlike manner as to deserve a good military 
 reputation. 
 
 On July 7 Emin passed Kibiro, on his way to the Msua station 
 on the western shore of the Albert Lake. This terrified the 
 Wanyoro ; and the king, who was at Buemba, on the banks of 
 the river Kafu, with the object of placing an ambush for the 
 retreating enemy, hurried precipitately to Kiani-Cassangoro, near 
 Mruli, for refuge, feeling certain that the country would be invaded 
 by the Soudanese soldiers of Equatoria. From that place he 
 announced to me that he was ready to enter into negotiations about 
 the long-projected alliance. I made known to him (in the 
 Governor's name), through his messenger, our immutable decisions, 
 which were, either alliance confirmed by exchange of blood, or a 
 concession for us to occupy Kibiro and the plateau of Kitana, 
 because the freedom of our communications with Uganda was 
 indispensable to us. In view of such an audacious proposal the 
 grandees and military chiefs raised a tumultuous agitation, and 
 decided to demand of the king my expulsion from the country, 
 and the breaking off of all intercourse with the Government of 
 Equatoria. But the Sovereign declined to carry out such resolu- 
 
 £^
 
 2 86 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 tions, and on August 2 sent me presents, and a message, " My 
 son will exchange blood with you. I want an ally, and accept 
 your proposal. The last war into which I was led by the pernicious 
 advice of Al:)d Rehman and the ambition of the grandees and the 
 hanassura was inconsiderate and foolish. I am the king, and my 
 will is law. Ancient Juaya shall be rebuilt, and I will take up 
 my abode close by you. Son of the great Kamrasi, my lip was 
 never soiled by a falsehood."
 
 ( 287 ) 
 
 CHAPTER XXIII. 
 
 KABBA EEGA'S HOSTILITY. 
 
 Occupation of the region on the left bank of the Victoria Nile — Katongoli, the 
 Lango man — A child as a holocaust — Guakamatera, Prime Minister of King 
 Chua — " The king has ordered me to watch you " — The king reiterates his 
 promises — Neither a single piece of ivory nor a cartridge— The guards' refusal 
 — Attempt by night — Great imprudence — The king wishes me to become his 
 guest — The merchant Hamis — Exchange of victims — The Victoria Nile placed 
 in a position of defence — Sacred boats — Young students — Emin leaves on a 
 visit to the northern stations — I ask for frequent despatch of messengers and 
 steamers — Prisonei's in Juaya — ^The raids at Menakulia — A caravan of Ivaragua 
 people — Communications with Kafu and Kibiro are forbidden — Delusive hope 
 — The 10th of December 1887 — Noble conduct of an enemy — Advice given to 
 Biri — The 31st of December 1887 — I think of a friend — The king's wickedness 
 against him — Stanley has arrived — Guakamatera's strange proposal — A goat 
 and a fowl — The great drum gives no sound — A set trap. 
 
 The King of Unyoro decided upon the definite occupation of the 
 countries on the Victoria Nile, formerly independent States, 
 governed by Anfina, and Kamissua, the son and heir of chief 
 Rionga. 
 
 " We were defeated near the great river, owing to the protection 
 bestowed by our soldiers upon the Shefalu ; but I was able to find 
 out the secret conspiracy. The Great Kamrasi had invited us to 
 undertake the enterprise ; he had sent his sou as an augury and 
 guarantee of victory," 
 
 Thus spoke the king at a public meeting at Mruli ; and 
 Katongoli, a gigantic man of jDroved courage and savage ferocity, 
 worthy of the Lango-Umiro tribe, had the leadership of the 
 war. 
 
 In the region of the Equatorial lakes it is believed that any 
 Avarlike enterprise is destined by supernatural power to have a 
 glorious end, if a human victim be offered as a holocaust on the 
 frontier of the enemy, and is neither insulted nor taken away from 
 the spot by them. 
 
 A child of unknown parents, stolen in a distant countiy, who, 
 from his youth, is supposed to be pure and uncontaminated, is 
 baried up to his shoulders on the road which the army must 
 follow. 
 
 Along the route the scouts cautiously proceed, silent and watchful, 
 always in fear of the danger of ambuscades. The column follows 
 at a distance. They discover the little head of the innocent victim
 
 2 88 TEN YEARS IN E QUA TORI A . 
 
 from afar ; it leans on his shoulder — it is the head of a corpse — or 
 perhaps, agonising, he still moves, uttering his last wailing. 
 
 The child being still there, according to their belief, was a sure 
 sign of victory, and this was confirmed in their minds by the fact 
 that the enemy had not even put in an appearance on the road, or 
 expected an assault, whence they inferred that there was nothing 
 to fear, and that ultimate victory was certain. 
 
 And trustful, bold, and raising their courage by songs to the 
 dishonour of the enemy, they march past the wretched child of 
 propitiation. 
 
 No one dares to succour him, nor even address a word of conso- 
 lation, for fear of breaking the charm. 
 
 Katongoli fell as a thunderbolt upon his enemies — discomfited 
 them, and proclaimed the power of his king all along the left bank 
 of the Victoria Nile — September 1887. 
 
 In the court-yard of the palace at Kiani, all the grandees of the 
 kingdom being present, the king appointed Guakamatera — one of 
 the chiefs, who had distinguished himself in the war with the 
 Waganda people — to be Prime Minister of the kingdom, and 
 presented him with the axe, an emblem of justice, saying : "Make 
 use of it with the greatest severity against those who stubbornly 
 refuse obedience and respect." 
 
 Guakamatera took up his abode at Juaya, near the river 
 Kavarongli, and from thence sent me this message : " The king 
 has appointed me chief of the country during his stay at Mruli, 
 and has ordered me to take care of you ; you will let me know 
 your wants. You are at liberty to purchase goods from any of the 
 natives, as well as from Zanzibar merchants. I want to know you 
 personally ; for the present I send you my regards." 
 
 An envoy from the king brought me his royal salutations, and 
 repeated and confirmed his decision to enter upon a compact of 
 alliance and to inaugurate a new order of things in the kingdom. 
 
 This was, perhaps, a sign of better times to come, of which I ought 
 to have taken advantage ; the opportunity, if missed, might 
 disappear as easily as it had appeared. Obviously, as there was a 
 struggle between two parties, our interest was to give our help, 
 clearly, immediately, and unreservedly, in order to turn the balance 
 in favour of that party which had become friendly to us. 
 
 I urged the Governor to send presents, to keep up frequent 
 correspondence, and have trust in my work. The situation required 
 an eai'ly answer ; as I did not receive any, I wrote, frankly : "If 
 it is %irrjent, indis'prnsablc, and of the greatest importance, to make 
 sure of the transit through Unyoro for the present, as well as for 
 the future, a regular service of correspondence must be estab- 
 lished. If the matter has only a relative secondary and clisjjcnsable 
 imijortance let us permit things to go as they will, as I consider it 
 of no use to sacrifice myself any longer."
 
 IMPRUDENCE OF BTRI. 289 
 
 Emin was offended — as if I had meant to blame him, or usurp 
 his power. His answer was: "I will not give a single piece of 
 ivory, nor a cartridge, before blood-brotherhood has been con- 
 cluded." 
 
 Our enemies were on the watch. Babedongo and Matunzi, two 
 military chiefs, were getting round Guakamatera to alienate him 
 from us ; the guards appointed for my service refused to accompany 
 the soldier who was to carry letters to Wadelai. 
 
 On the 17th of October, four armed men attempted to kill me 
 during the night, but they had to fly on account of the uninter- 
 rupted watch I used to keep, even during days of hope. A 
 messenger I sent to the king never returned. Guakamatera was 
 summoned to a secret council of the influential men, under the 
 presidency of the Sovereign 
 
 The month of October was an apparently calm one, but the 
 silence that surrounded us on ail sides was the forerunner of 
 furious hostilities. 
 
 In the early part of November 1887, to make the situation more 
 difficult and dangerous, notwithstanding the refusal I had sent 
 him, Biri came to see me. He had been at Wadelai since July on 
 his way to Uganda. That visit was a fatal imprudence, which 
 caused him to be included in the schemes plotted against me. 
 
 Entering Unyoro without the king's permission or orders is 
 considered a great crime, an offence to the sacred majesty of the 
 king, and the punishment inflicted on the offender is generally 
 death. 
 
 On the 11th of November, Guakamatera informed me of the 
 king's anger at such proceedings, and, whilst promising his support 
 for Biri's journey to Uganda, he expressed the king's wishes to 
 have me as a guest for a few days. I have no doubt that it was a 
 snare ; nevertheless, had I had at my disposal the presents asked 
 for so many times (not to increase my personal influence, but for 
 the general welfare), I should have risked the chances of the visit. 
 
 At one time I had made the black king at Nparo smile with the 
 splendour of a Winchester rifle ! 
 
 That King Chua would not have hesitated to remove any obstacle 
 in order to avenge his offended dignity, was not only probable but 
 certain ; it had been shown by a recent event. 
 
 Hamis, a merchant, went towards the territory of Mboga, on the 
 right bank of the Semliki, for his own business, having been tacitly 
 authorised to do so by the chief Babedongo, who had recently 
 become his friend. The king, being informed of it, sent for one 
 of his bravos, and ordered him to pursue the merchant, murder 
 him, and take away the goods he had with him. The victim was 
 overtaken without delay, and imprisoned in a hut, prudence 
 inducing the assassin to perpetrate his crime during the night ; but 
 Hamis escaped and hastened to throw himself at the king's feet. 
 
 'r
 
 290 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 " You wish to kill me," he said ; " well, then, avenge yourself; " 
 but the king, not at all embarrassed by the failure of his scheme, 
 called the fellow, saying : 
 
 " Why did you want to murder this defenceless man ? " 
 
 " Because such was your command," answered he. " Who would 
 dare to touch a foreigner without your order ? " 
 
 The faithful emissary was put to death. The king's word, how- 
 ever, was not enough to enable the mei'chant to consider himself 
 quite safe, and, without taking any further care of his business, 
 he left immediately for Uganda. 
 
 The king, being now master of the Victoria Nile, gave great 
 attention to fortifying suitable points on it for its defence and for 
 the concentration of troops. He mustered a great number of 
 boats in the protected locality, in order to prepare all that was 
 required for the passage of numerous soldiers to the opposite bank. 
 
 Out of caprice he ordered that two canoes of extraordinary size, 
 built in the Kiriangobi forest, should be carried from the shore of 
 the Albert Lake to Mruli on the Nile. The enterprise was not an 
 easy one ; steep hills, intricate woods, and rivers with high banks, 
 interrupted the great distance between the two places in a 
 thousand ways ; but the king's will was law. It was said that a 
 baby and a pot of milk were found at the bottom of the tree from 
 which the large boat, called ngata, had been made. This strange 
 and marvellous story attracted hundreds of earnest workers, who 
 swore that they would launch o'n the Nile, not only the larger 
 canoe, but also its fellow-boat of smaller dimensions. 
 
 Amidst rejoicings and copious draughts of beer (after many 
 days' work interrupted by festivities), the two boats were 
 triumphantly carried to the appointed spot. It is true that many 
 lives were lost in the transit, but the king's whim was satisfied, and 
 numerous presents were showered on Guakamatera, the director of 
 the pious enterprise. 
 
 Everything concurred to render it more obvious that Chua, 
 having repented his promises, had again given way to the 
 customary polities of intrigue and deceit. 
 
 The pressure of his faithful servants and the uncertainty and 
 carelessness on our part had encouraged him, but he hesitated to 
 proceed to open violence. A thread, though a thin one, still 
 bound him to us. 
 
 From the first day of my stay in U nyoro, six youths belonging 
 to the best families of the kingdom had on my advice been sent to 
 Wadelai to receive literary instruction at that school. Two of the 
 pupils had died of small-pox during the epidemic which ravaged 
 the country in the last months of 1886 ; the other four were still 
 attending the school, to their benefit, and the satisfaction of their 
 teachers. The king had several times expressed a wish to see the 
 young students for a short time, and I, without giving a formal
 
 TRANSPORT OF KING CHUA'S CANOES,
 
 DANGER AND ANXIETY. 291 
 
 refusal, had always encouraged Emiu to keep those precious 
 hostages, as a check on any wicked intention of the king. But on 
 the 1st of November, Emin sent back the four lads from Kibiro, 
 and at the same time informed me that, by request of the officers 
 and employes of the 1st battalion, he purposed visiting the 
 northern stations in the hope of restoring order among the troops, 
 and bringing them to reason. 
 
 At the close of the letter he hinted at his expectation of 
 persuading those people, by telling them that the firman for the 
 title of Pasha had been conferred upon him, as the letters of the 
 Egyptian Government had announced in a despatch from the 
 British Consul General at Zanzibar, which I had forwarded to 
 him. 
 
 I answered Emin that, notwithstanding the ever increasing 
 danger threatening our safety, I was ready to do all in my power to 
 help him in his painful situation. I advised him to grant a general 
 pardon to some officers and officials, punished too severely, and to 
 rid himself of the Major commanding in Dufile, because he had 
 been the author of the prolonged disorders. I exhorted him to 
 keep in mind the wickedness of King Chua, which was not less 
 than that of his advisers ; a disposition which could only be checked 
 by impressing fear on his cowardly mind ; I requested him, there- 
 fore, to order that a messenger should, without fail, be sent to 
 Kibiro every week, and that every fortnight a steamer should 
 anchor there, with the express order to await my consent for its 
 departure ; and I added that he had better send me, at once, choice 
 elephants' tusks and a case of cartridges as presents for fhje king. 
 
 Emin wrote, promising to do all I had asked him, and left 
 Elibiro. 
 
 On the 2nd of December I sent a messenger with the firman and 
 Government letters to Kibiro. No courier had arrived from the 
 Pasha ; no steamer had made its appearance in the roadstead. 
 
 Even now, whilst I am writing, the remembrance of those days 
 makes me shiver and affects my heart and mind with grief 
 
 Violence was substituted for intrigue, and crime ended the 
 horrible drama. 
 
 On the 28th day of November, Biri and a soldier were prevented 
 by the hanassura from going to Nusranduru, a village where the 
 merchants were residing. To overcome this resistance was a 
 question of dignity; and almost resulted in a quarrel, but they 
 were allowed to pass. 
 
 The chiefs Babedongo and Guakamatera made raids on the 
 boundaries of Uganda, in order to seize the Zanzibar couriers, 
 waiting at Menakulia for the king's permission to enter Unyoro. 
 
 A man named Meikambi was searched, robbed, and beaten, on 
 the Kafu river, whilst on his journey back from Uganda with 
 letters for us. A caravan of Karagua people was dispersed, and
 
 292 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 some of the party were arrested under the suspicion of conveying 
 correspondence. 
 
 Two men, named Rubanga and Katto, accused of supplying me 
 with news concerning the king's affairs, were Ijarbarously murdered. 
 Ten rifles were presented by the king to Ballula, a notorious Shooli 
 chief in rebellion against the Government, who at the same time 
 received instructions for an impending rebellion. 
 
 A large number of soldiers were mustered around Juaya, on the 
 road to the Kaf u and Kibiro. 
 
 We never heard from the king ; not a single friendly word was 
 addressed to us ; the bold, grinning black faces of the three guards 
 watching us, every moment reminded us of our pitiable condition. 
 
 The sole relief from our distress was the hope of the longed-for 
 arrival of a steamer from Kibiro, to defeat all designs made against 
 us, and to delay our complete ruin. 
 
 Every evening we used to retire with this illusion, and every 
 morning we woke to witness a new scene of the drama, which was 
 quickly approaching its end. 
 
 Vain, hopes ! The steamers had remained guarding Dufile, and 
 had afterwards taken the Governor back to Wadelai, for, being 
 threatened with imprisonment by his soldiers, he had had to escape 
 by night from Kirri. 
 
 The departure of the steamer from Wadelai had been postponed 
 on account of important repairs. The chimneys and hulks had 
 been varnished like new, for show at the approaching voyage on 
 the lake. 
 
 Matters went on like this till the 10th of December, on the 
 evening of which day we were told of the fate awaiting us, by &, 
 servant of the merchants. 
 
 At Kiani, near Mruli, in the great audience hall, in presence of 
 all the great men (who always assembled on emei'gencies), as well 
 as of Abd Rehman, the evil genius, a hanassura made most serious 
 accusations against me before the king, declaring that I despised 
 the Sovereign and intrigued against him; that I spread a 
 propaganda of rebellion ; had secret intercourse with Muanga ; was 
 plotting to dethrone Chua ; and that I had gathered armed men in 
 my house. 
 
 Biri was accused of being my accomplice in the horiible plot. 
 
 " I know," said the king, " and I know also what I must do." 
 
 He sent for one of his bravos, and in a majestic tone, said : 
 
 "Thou wilt go to Babedongo and relate to him what thou hast 
 just heard. Tell him that I order the white man's house to be 
 surrounded, and he and the Turkish merchant to be sent away ; 
 and, if necessary, to kill them both. Tell him to fear not, as I 
 will take the responsibility." 
 
 Three days afterwards, the messenger communicated the king's 
 wishes and orders to Babedongo, but the former promptly answered :
 
 CHUAS INTRIGUES. 293 
 
 " Return to Makama and tell him to entrust this affair to some 
 one else. He will have to repent of such an action assuredly. He 
 has called the white man into the country, and he (the white man) 
 has not given any reason for complaint. He only wishes to be 
 allowed to receive letters from Uganda and to send some there, of 
 which the king has been aware since the day of his arrival." 
 
 The justice loyally done me by a man who had always been one 
 of my worst enemies, was the only relief left to me in my burden- 
 some work and daily sufferings. 
 
 I advised Biri to withdraw to Nusranduru among his friends, 
 the Arabs. By their means and with presents, when away from 
 me he could win Babedongo's favour, and avoid the danger now 
 threatening him. 
 
 Overwhelmed by grief, and mastered by anxiety for his ivory 
 (still at Kibiro), Biri could not make up his mind to anything. He 
 wept, but lived in hope. 
 
 On the 19th of December, 1887, his servant, Manjaliva, on his 
 return from having taken letters to the confines of Uganda, and 
 now the bearer of correspondence, repeated and confirmed to him 
 the news which the Arabs had sent ; but even then he did not 
 come to any decision . 
 
 The year closed with gloomy prospects (31st December 1887). 
 
 King Chua was on the point of throwing off the mask. He 
 had failed in his continued attempts to get rid of me, as well as of 
 the ties which he had voluntarily contracted with the Government 
 of Equatoria. His underhand intrigues had proved fruitless, and 
 he remained as covetous as ever of the ivory and guns of the 
 Province, as well as of the possession of the Shooli. Now that he 
 realised his strength in the positions on the Victoria Nile, and Avas 
 certain of the alliance with the Shooli, owing to the rebel Ballula's 
 friendship, and trusting also to the help of the Lango people, he 
 intended to challenge the Province, and, having a perfect knowledge 
 of the weakness of the Government forces, was convinced that he 
 would be successful in his attempt. 
 
 The storm had already begun. 
 
 The king was still at Juaya, again meditating flight, conflagra- 
 tion, and the whole series of deceptions which had made me so 
 anxious for many months, and had been the cause of grief and ruin. 
 
 I had gone to the royal audience, I do not remember for what 
 reason. 
 
 " Makamba," said Ohua to an old man who was entering the 
 place, " you come to see your friend, for if he were not here you 
 would never have thought of coming." 
 
 " Friend, friend ; once you too used to call yourself his friend," 
 he answered. 
 
 "Yes, it is true; but since I have learned that he would cause 
 the ruin of my kingdom, I am no longer his friend."
 
 294 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 " What will you ? I am not yet persuaded that you are right." 
 
 I remembered that man, and his words. It was necessary for 
 me to find him. He had been kind, and might be useful to me. 
 
 It was New Year's Day (1888), and as a matter of habit and 
 necessity I wished my people to celebrate it with plenty of beer. 
 
 My hanassura, with a respectful manner for the occasion, were 
 abundantly presented with drink, and soon fell under the influence 
 of Bacchus. I then sent my faithful boy to make inquiries about 
 good Makamba, In disgrace with his king, he had been banished 
 beyond the Muenghe country, probably destined to the same end 
 as the unfortunate Kategora. 
 
 On January 3 a messenger from the chief Mboga stopped at 
 Juaya for the night. He was going to Mruli, and brought news 
 that in Lendu, on the way totheWalegga country, some Europeans 
 had appeared, followed by many armed men dressed in the Zanzibar 
 fashion. No doubt it was Stanley with the relief expedition. 
 Our joy caused us to forget our sad condition. We entertained 
 new hopes. I thought that the king would perhaps postpone the 
 execution of his nefarious projects, and I was pleased to see poor 
 Biri smile, he who had been drowned in sorrow for such a length 
 of time, in fear of his life, for the safety of his family, and for the 
 fate of his ivory. 
 
 Already since November 24, Guakamatera, through one of his 
 confidants, had proposed for me to enter into the bond of blood, 
 but secretly, as he warned me, in order not to incur the king's wrath. 
 
 I accepted the proposal with the utmost pleasure, like a wrecked 
 sailor who clings to any piece of wood the waves throw within his 
 reach. 
 
 Such a length of time had elapsed that I had forgotten the 
 strange offer when, on the morning of the 4th of January 1888, 
 the same man came, as the bearer of his chief's wishes. After 
 having had a pot of beer put on the ground, he communicated to 
 me with majestic gravity his master's decision to hasten the much 
 desired ceremony. 
 
 On the Gth of January he made his appearance again with a 
 goat and a pair of fowls. He whispered to me : 
 
 " To-night." 
 
 " All right," I answered. 
 
 " The Vizier," added he, " wants you to go by yourself ; he is 
 greatly frightened. When you hear the great nuggarc beat, go to 
 his house by the path along the stream." 
 
 Astonished at so many conditions being imposed on me, I could 
 hardly utter a word ; but I soon grew calm again, and quietly but 
 resolutely, looking straight in his face, I answered : 
 
 " Tell the Vizier that to-night, when the nuggarc are beaten, I 
 shall be at his house. Thank him, and present my compliments to 
 him."
 
 GUAKAMATERA'S INVITATION. 295 
 
 He bowed and left. I could clearly see that he was anxious to 
 get away. 
 
 Until then I had never mentioned the strange proposition to 
 Biri. But when the messenger had departed, I told him of it. 
 
 " What do you think of doing ? " said he, opening his eyes 
 widely. 
 
 "To go." 
 
 " How ? " he asked. 
 
 " I will take the revolver with me.'" 
 
 My boy, who had overheard the conversation, said : " Shall I go 
 with you ? " 
 
 " If you like. Biri ^vill give you his revolver, and we will go 
 together. After all, the devil is not as black as he is painted. As 
 we stand we might have a chance of leaving some souvenir behind 
 us. Let us trust in our good star. If a steamer arrived at Kibiro 
 to-day we should be safe. It might, because news in Unyoro has 
 wings." 
 
 The goat and the two fowls were cooked during the day. The 
 thought of the morrow did not worry us much as far as our meals 
 were concerned. 
 
 Neither during the evening nor in the night did we hear the 
 drum. The hanassura Mohongoki arrived, whom I had sent on 
 the 10th of December to inform the king that the false reports 
 made to him about me had come to my knowledge ; and that I 
 protested against the cowardice and meanness of my maligners, 
 and appealed to his loyalty and justice. After some hesitation, he 
 told me that, having delivered my message, the king told him that 
 he was considering what was the best thing to do. 
 
 The answer was too short and meaningless to be considered a 
 sincere one. 
 
 On the morning of the 8th, a onagnoro of Mruli announced 
 himself as an envoy from the king, with this message : 
 
 " The resumption of hostilities with Uganda is impending, and 
 I do not wish that Bu*i, my guest, should suffer any injuries. 
 Guakamatera, being a faint-hearted man, has lost my confidence, 
 and is about to be punished. 
 
 " You will go to Juaya, and make arrangements with the 
 Pasha's representative." 
 
 A meeting was arranged for the next day at the Vizier's 
 residence.
 
 ( 296 ) 
 
 CHAPTEE XXIV. 
 
 A NARROW ESCAPE. 
 
 Sad farewell supper — Biri's illusions — " To-morrow I shall be with you " — Shall 
 we turn back ? — The great priest of the Unyoro sorcerers — Opening of the 
 royal gate — The signal is given — An unrestrained crowd — Tied to the trees — 
 " Woe to you ! " — Orders to my boy — Grief and alarm of Biri — A more 
 fortunate soldier — I save my shoes — Our sufferings must not be relieved — 
 Bought by means of a coat — Payment of services — Guakamatera at my resi- 
 dence — Confiscation of all property — Return of the conqueror — "■Gohia, 
 Gohia!" — The place of execution — Meeting of my domestics — A piece of 
 paper and a pencil — Flight — Followed and threatened — Kagoro protects us — 
 At Kibiro — Lying message of Guakamatera — The breakage of a pipe — I give 
 away my waistcoat — At the salt pits — From Tokongia — Ntiabo, the wife of 
 the king — Kapidi, the cripple — Neither food nor passage — Driven to the woods 
 — Dinka girl — A plate of beans — Fadl starts in a boat — "JIajunffo, Majungo !" 
 — A colony of Lur — "We'll not kill you" — A happy meeting — " Man dies only 
 by permission of God "• — Discouragement subdues us — " The steamer ! the 
 steamer ! " — On the shore of the lake — Refreshing sleep — The Khedive in sight 
 — Fresh anxieties — We are saved. 
 
 '* Dear Biri, very probably tliis is the last time we shall sup 
 together at Juaya,"' said I, turning towards my guest, while we 
 were sitting at our humble table. 
 
 " But why ? " asked he ; " do you think that I will not return 
 from Uganda ? I have promised to do so, and I mean to keep my 
 word." 
 
 " I do not mean that, but I am convinced that you will not go 
 to Uganda." 
 
 " For what reason ? " 
 
 " For a very simple one ; to-morrow there will be no departure, 
 but something much more serious." 
 
 "What! Do you believe that the arrival of the magnoro hom. 
 Mruli is a mere fiction ? " 
 
 " Certainly." 
 
 " And the permission to make arrangements for my return 
 caravan ? " 
 
 " Also fiction." 
 
 " And why should these gentlemen deceive us ? " 
 
 " To cause us to fall more easily into the net." 
 
 " But since we are already in their hands, why so many 
 subterfuges ? " 
 
 " It is not strictly true that we are in their hands ; we are only 
 their j)risoner3."
 
 AN ARGUMENT WITH BIRI. 297 
 
 " I don't understand you." 
 
 " I will explain. Guakamatera has the order to do away with 
 us ; nocturnal attempts have failed, as also the trick of blood- 
 brotherhood ; for he was afraid. Now, since he has a peremptory 
 order to deliver the king from our presence, he thinks that he may 
 coax us with a proposal which, according to his idea, must meet 
 with our full consent. If he obtained our removal from this house, 
 he would be free to act according to his o^vn will."' 
 '' Then what do you intend to do ? " 
 
 "Not to accept the invitation for to-morrow, but to stay at 
 home till the arrival of the steamer, the appearance of which at 
 Kibiro cannot be delayed for long." 
 
 " But if the proposal of my departure for Uganda were a 
 sincere one, we should make a mistake, which would prove very 
 detrimental to ourselves." 
 " Why ? " 
 
 " Because Guakamatera will be angry ; he will threaten us and, 
 worse still, act with violence." 
 
 " No ; do not believe it. It is quite true that he will threaten 
 us, but it will only be by words ; he will not have the courage to 
 lay his hands upon us, as long as we remain barricaded within our 
 home." 
 
 '• I believe the contrary." 
 
 " But, dear Biri, he is certain that we conceal a good number of 
 armed men. None of his hanassitra are bold enough to approach if 
 they see one of us. gun in hand ; and then, in presence of any 
 unforeseen event, Guakamatera would make a report to the king, 
 which would enable us to gain time." 
 
 " But if they besiege us, how could we long resist ? It would 
 be impossible." 
 
 " I know that the defence could not be protracted, but the 
 Pasha's messenger will be here before long. "VVe have in the house 
 corn enough to last one month ; water is close at hand, and we can 
 supply ourselves with it during the night, for the lanassura would 
 be afraid of some resolute action on our part, and would watch us 
 from a distance, especially after dark." 
 
 " But we should place ourselves in a difficult position. I should 
 ruin my business in Uganda, and, besides, cut off the road for my 
 return." 
 
 " Still, in my opinion, there is no better expedient in the terrible 
 circumstances in which we are placed. With regard to Uganda, 
 you may come with us and join Stanley's caravan. You can go to 
 Uganda from a thousand points." 
 
 " Ah ! I think your fears have no foundation. Formerly the 
 king wished very much to get rid of us, but now circumstances 
 have changed. Stanley "s arrival frightens him, and he is desirous 
 of amending his conduct, and entering into cordial intercourse with
 
 298 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 the Governor ; therefore he will comply with his wish and let me 
 go to Uganda." 
 
 " Biri, do you forget the offence you gave the king ? You 
 entered his country without permission. Can he forget that ? To 
 pardon you does not depend upon him ; the national traditions and 
 the royal dignity could not allow it." 
 
 " But I suppose he would, if he were compelled by political 
 reasons ; and he is in fear." 
 
 " You are mistaken. King Chua once feared us, now he hates 
 us. He wants to close the borders of his kingdom again. His 
 strength, like that of all Negro kings, is found in isolation ; to 
 attain his object he will not hesitate to commit a crime. Thirst of 
 jDOwer guides him, not reasons of State." 
 
 " Then what will become of us ? " 
 
 " You will know to-morrow." 
 
 " You mean a great misfortune is impending ? " 
 
 " Quite so ; unless, I repeat, we trust to chance and decKne the 
 invitation for to-morrow. If I were to decide for myself, I would 
 not hesitate a moment." 
 
 " But that would be to give ourselves up to certain death." 
 
 "Not necessarily; but if we gave ourselves up to Guakamatera, 
 we would surely be put to death." 
 
 " To what a point the policy of the Governor has brought us ! " 
 
 " Events have influenced his conduct. The dissensions of the 
 Province have tied his hands, and prevented him from acting on a 
 consistent political plan. For this reason he has always been 
 disinclined not only to resolute actions, but even to give presents 
 freely, as I advised him. The King of Unyoro and his Ministers 
 are not to be bought by fine words, but by rich and substantial 
 gifts." 
 
 " And we bear the consequences of the mistake." 
 
 "What can we do? I, as well as you, have come here as a 
 volunteer ; we must have courage. We must be prepared for 
 something worse even than death. When the sacrifice has been 
 consummated, our name, instead of being uttered with feelings of 
 sympathy and gratitude, will be reviled as the name of persons 
 who have been the cause of ruin ; but listen to my advice, and let 
 us resist." 
 
 " No ; indeed, it would be our worst course. Let us be prudent ; 
 for if we are destined to be struck down by misfortune, no action 
 of ours will be of any avail. My resolution is to go to-morrow and 
 present myself to Guakamatera." 
 
 " We shall go to ruin." 
 
 " Perhaps, but I will go. If you will not accompany me, I will 
 go alone." 
 
 " No, dear Biri, I will not forsake you ; I will go with you." 
 
 At 6 A.M., January 9, 1888, accompanied by my faithful boy, a
 
 AT GUAKAMATERAS MERCY. 299 
 
 corporal of the Egyptian troops, and the three hana^siiva, Wando, 
 Rehan, and Singoma, I took the road to Guakamatera's residence. 
 Having crossed the stream and ascended to the esplanade, 
 whence the Vizier's abode could be perceived in the distance, 
 we saw, with great astonishment, that the place was full of 
 armed men. Our hearts throbbed violently for a moment, and 
 we looked silently at each other. Biri uttered a faint " Let us go 
 back," but it was useless; we were bound to go on, and hastening 
 our steps we reached the gate. The cries ceased, some of the 
 warriors gathered on our way ; some saluted us, and we approached 
 the audience hall. 
 
 Not far off, at the foot of some ancient trees, majestic for their 
 imposing height, and the wealth and beauty of their foliage, sat 
 the high priest, surrounded by crowds of his subordinate sorcerers. 
 His head was covered with a rich turban of red cloth, adorned with 
 beads and shells, and from each side of his forehead protruded two 
 ox horns, from which hung small wooden talismans. In his left 
 hand he held a large horn full of the magic powder, and in his 
 right the conjuror's small wand. He was dressed in an ample 
 mantle of ox skin clasped on his left shoulder, and was sitting on 
 a small stool, with a severe countenance that became his dignity. 
 
 The gate of the royal house was opened. We heard the ilourish 
 of a trumpet, and the Vizier came forth with a suite of grandees 
 and warriors. The people scattered about the open space, gathered 
 round at a short distance, forming a compact circle ; some of the 
 men were armed with guns, some with lances and shields, and 
 others with bows and arrows. They amounted to several thousands. 
 Perfect, icy silence, foreboding a solemn event, prevailed ; and 
 they all looked at Guakamatera, who was conspicuous amongst the 
 armed courtiers by his high stature and large head. 
 
 " There is treachery," I whispered to Biri. " May God help us ; 
 any other hope is useless. However, let us show courage." 
 
 About ten minutes after the Vizier's appearance he suddenly 
 stretched up his right arm. That was the signal agreed upon, and 
 the air resounded with horrible cries. The unbridled crowd 
 pounced upon us. We were seized, and barbarously tied to the 
 large trees, close by the great magician. I was stripped of my 
 tarboosh, and my pockets were rilled. My neck, ai'ms, wrists, 
 knees, and ankles were bound to a tree with such atrocious force 
 that I was unable to make the least movement. The rope round my 
 neck was so tight that my respiration was hindered, and one of 
 my arms was twisted and tied in a painful position. 
 
 Poor Biri, entirely stripped of his clothes, was tied to a tree 
 close by, with ropes round his wrists, neck, and feet, and my boy 
 Oakil was treated in the same manner. The corporal, with his 
 arms bound together, was also tied to a tree near Biri. 
 
 I uttered an imprecation, directing a glance at Guakamatera,
 
 300 
 
 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 CASATI BOUND TO A TUEE.
 
 SUFFERINGS OF CAS ATI. 301 
 
 who stood coldly by, upbraiding him for the cowardice of tying a 
 boy, and begged him to have Bii-i's bonds loosened. The arras of 
 the former were then freed, and the latter was somewhat relieved. 
 But, on the contrary, the hanassitra Wando, having called the 
 Vizier's attention to the barbarous manner in which I was bound, 
 he, with a needless burst of anger, ordered that even my body 
 round the middle should be fastened to the large tree with a rope. 
 His remorseless satellites, intoxicated with joy, were ready to carry 
 the order out ; but I could not refrain from smiling, consoled by 
 the fact that the cord which bound my neck, being a new one, 
 yielded to my efforts, and permitted me to breathe more freely. 
 
 Then Guakamatera approached me nearer. 
 
 " 1 am going to your residence by order of the king," said he. 
 " I know that you have there many armed men who have arrived 
 stealthily and at intervals from Wadelai, on whom you rely for 
 conquering our country. Woe to you if they make the least resist- 
 ance ! You shall be immediately put to death." 
 
 " Considering the circumstances," said I, " to which you have 
 reduced us by order of your king, I cannot answer for what will 
 happen if you go to my residence ; therefore I advise you to take 
 this boy with you, who will give my message to the soldiers there, 
 by whom he will be readily believed and obeyed." 
 
 " Very well, give him your orders ; " which I did, saying : 
 
 " Let the Government soldiers give up their arms, and you, 
 my boy, obey without hesitation anything Guakamatera may 
 command. I wish that there should be no resistance, no blood- 
 shed." 
 
 The Vizier departed, accompanied by his troops, leaving about 
 300 armed men to guard us. 
 
 The pain caused by the cords ; the rays of the sun, which on that 
 day seemed to be more scorching than usual ; the thirst which tor- 
 mented us, and the continual derision of an inebriated mob thirsty 
 for blood, were our Calvary for several very long hours. 
 
 Poor Biri sometimes recited the prayers of the Koran, but more 
 often he sobbed, remembering his children and his lost ivory, and 
 abandoned himself to despair, as if he beheld the spectre of death 
 approaching. 
 
 I tried to infuse courage and hope into him, and begged him not 
 to exhibit a degrading spectacle of cowardice ; but, indeed, I was 
 myself very afflicted at seeing us the laughing-stock of a ferocious 
 and superstitious tyrant. 
 
 " If a steamer had been sent from Dufile, as you requested, we 
 should not be in such a plight. The Pasha had been warned of the 
 danger." So spoke Biri, and he gave vent to expressions of anger 
 and disgust. 
 
 Corporal Surur, less unhappy than we, was somewhat comforted 
 by the words of his fellow-negroes. They urged him to make his
 
 302 
 
 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 submission to the king, who was ready, not only to pardon him, but 
 also to show his consideration for his character as a soldier, and gave 
 him cups full of water at his pleasure. 
 
 Still that crowd, apparently so elated and frantic, wavered at the 
 
 KING CHUA's relatives IN COURT ATTIRE. 
 
 bottom of their hearts from great fear. One of the boldest amongst 
 our guards, having approached me, tried to loosen the strings of 
 my shoes, probably to carry them away. Indignant at such an 
 attempt, and unable to move at all, I shouted, staring angrily at
 
 TREATMENT OF PRISONERS. 303 
 
 the villain. The crowd then stood back till one of the chi(^fs, whose 
 sense of duty triumphed over that of fear, after much hesitation 
 and circumspection, overhauled the pockets of my trousers, and 
 assured his companions that there was no bewitched article in 
 them, except a piece of paper ; whereupon I could not refrain a 
 laugh, which was loudly taken up by the whole crowd, and even 
 poor Biri himself enjoyed a gleam of cheerfulness. 
 
 At about three o'clock P.M. my boy returned, and in the name 
 of Guakamatera gave the order for loosening our fetters. The 
 guards protested loudly against such a concession, which they 
 could not believe to be true, and demanded the presence of one of 
 the Vizier's banassura ; meanwhile our torments were increased, in 
 order to satisfy the caprice of a fanatical crowd ; and for about an 
 hour the stream of insults and threats continued. 
 
 When the boy returned, accompanied by the guard Singoma, 
 cries of dissatisfaction were uttered by all. Singoma gave the 
 order to loosen the cords which bound my arms ; the chief of the 
 men who had remained to guard us protested, yet said that he 
 would not only do so, but leave my arms free if the usual payment 
 was handed to him. My coat was asked for, and I agreed to give 
 it up, but they wanted it beforehand, which was impossible unless 
 the ropes with which I was fastened were removed. At this there 
 was a fresh explosion of violent outcries, but at last I was untied, 
 deprived of my coat, and tied again, except my arms, and the 
 same was done to Biri, whilst the corporal was set at liberty. 
 
 It is the custom of the Unyoro country, and the king tolerates 
 it, that the jailors of those who are imprisoned may practise the 
 hideous trade of afflicting their victims with torments, to compel 
 them to satisfy their covetousness ; so that if an unfortunate 
 individual or a criminal has the power to satisfy their greed by a 
 ready and substantial payment, his sufferings are allayed, for a 
 short time at least, and even for a longer period if the victims 
 continue to give presents ; but should the unhappy prisoner be 
 poor, and therefore unable to satisfy the greediness of his jailors, 
 he is sure to undergo greater cruelties and molestations than 
 those ordered by the monarch. It is thus that the officials of 
 the king are compensated, and he is spared the burden of paying 
 salaries. This system of extortion is extended to every branch 
 of the public service ; to the inspection of districts, messages to 
 the chiefs, domiciliary visits, arrests, and transport of royal 
 property ; consequently dissatisfaction prevails everywhere in 
 Unyoro, and were it not for the fear of the considerable number 
 of guns possessed by the Government, public peace would be 
 continually jeopardised. 
 
 The boy briefly informed me of what had happened at our 
 residence after our departure until the arrival of Guakamatera. 
 We had scarcely left the house when it was surrounded at a
 
 304 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 distance by about two thousand warriors, brought down from 
 ]\Iruli, Muenghe, and from the Kafu districts. 
 
 When the Vizier was close by the house, he stopped with his 
 followers on the adjacent hill, whence he sent some soldiers, to- 
 gether with the boy, who was still in fetters. The arms of the two 
 soldiers, and my own, as well as the cartridges, were brought before 
 the commander ; my effects and Biri's, those of our servants and 
 of the soldiers, were arranged on the open space near our 
 dwelling, and the domestics were ordered to leave it, and taken 
 into custody at a place apart ; detachments of armed men entered 
 the premises, and closely searched every spot, striking with the 
 butt-ends of their guns every point of the ground, in order to ascer- 
 tain whether there were any subterranean hiding-places. 
 
 Guakamatera's anxiety subsided when he learned, by the firing 
 of shots and the beating of drums, that the search in our house 
 had been fruitless. He then descended the hill, crossed the river, 
 and went to rest himself triumphantly in my house. The ill-treat- 
 ment and cruelties perpetrated against our people were worthy of 
 the frame of mind of that savage horde. All my property was 
 carried to the Vizier's residence, and I saw brought in successively 
 my arms, boxes, provisions, and the ivory which belonged to the 
 Government. 
 
 Biri's effects were gathered at Nparo on the Mruli road. 
 
 As Guakamatera was about to return, I recommended firmness 
 to my boy, and advised him to run away in order to carry the news 
 to Wadelai of Stanley's presence in the southern region of the 
 Albert Lake. 
 
 It was about five o'clock p.m. The Vizier, surrounded by the 
 priests, holding a small bunch of herbs in their right hands, 
 arrived on the spot. 
 
 The pipes and a trumpet sounded, the drums were beaten, the 
 guns fired, and the crowd vigorously applauded the conqueror. 
 
 Guakamatera cast a glance at me, and observing that my arms 
 were free, went into a passion, and ordered them to bind me again, 
 which was done amidst the jubilant shouts of my tormentors ; then, 
 having put off his warlike equipment, and donned an elegant 
 garment made of cloth, he came out from the dwelling, sat down on 
 a large chair, and gathered the warriors and the people round him : 
 
 " This man," said he, pointing me out, " together with the other 
 (alluding to Biri), brought the Waganda into our countiy ; he was 
 the cause of your children and wives being ravished, your goods 
 stolen, and your crops destroyed. For these crimes the king has 
 struck them with his justice, and entrusted his vengeance to my 
 arm." 
 
 A stunning, howling noise, full of threats and curses, filled the 
 air, and we were assailed with the words, " Gohia, Gobia ! " 
 (traitor !)
 
 ESCAPE OF CASA TI. 
 
 305 
 
 Guakamatera called the corporal, but I never knew what he said 
 to him ; then he called the boy, and told him I was going to be 
 escorted to Kibiro, adding that the next morning all my effects 
 would be sent to me. He ordered them to unbind me, and also 
 Biri ; but as soon as the order was executed four hanassura took 
 hold of me, bound my arms and neck again, and dragged me away. 
 I tried to speak to Guakamatera in favour of poor Biri, but without 
 success, for the executioners, by dint of blows and pulls, dragged 
 me off, my boy and the corporal following. 
 
 At seven o'clock we passed across a colony of Shooli, and reached 
 
 I AM DRAGGED ALONG BY THE GUARDS. 
 
 a place where criminals used to be executed ; an encampment of 
 v/arriors was close by. 
 
 Having entered the enclosure, we found the two Egyptian 
 soldiers and our domestics, who, by giving up their clothes, obtained 
 from the hanassura the removal of my ropes. I appeared to them 
 as a man risen from the dead. At seeing me they were elated 
 with joy, and forgot their past sufferings. My boy very kindly 
 offered me a little paper and a pencil, which he had succeeded in 
 concealing during the confusion of the pillage. 
 
 The place where we were was not of good augury ; the nuggare 
 that we saw were stained with the blood of executed victims, so 
 that naturally the idea of escaping entered our minds. " This 
 thorny wood is the only place not guarded by armed men," said 
 Diy boy, on his return from reconnoitring. " Well," said I, " let 
 lis fall on our hands and knees and crawl through it." It was 
 done as quickly as it had been said ; we issued in evil plight from 
 
 u
 
 3o6 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 the wood and found ourselves on the road ; but soon had to struggle 
 through the ambushes placed by the landowners, from which we 
 were unable to defend ourselves ; we therefore abandoned the 
 road, and proceeded for a long distance hidden amongst the tall 
 grass, in which at last we stopped. Corporal Surur had left us, 
 and fled. We heard far, far off the echoes of the curses of the 
 warriors, who had lost eveiy trace of us, but gradually the sounds 
 of their voices died away, and complete silence prevailed. 
 
 After three hours' rest we resumed our journey, and, crossing 
 the Farajak district, we reached Kitana, where, thanks to a few 
 glass beads which some women detached from their necks, we 
 were enabled to appease our hunger with sweet potatoes (Batata 
 edidis). 
 
 At noon on January 10, 1888, we reached the top of the mountain 
 whence Kibiro and the immense blue extent of the lake can be 
 seen. We descended as far as the first terrace, when suddenly 
 armed men appeared from behind the rocks and paths, taking up 
 positions all round us. They numbered about a thousand altogether, 
 partly hanassura, armed with guns, and partly natives with lance 
 and shield. 
 
 They ordered us to go back, and on my decided refusal they 
 clamoured and threatened, but I did not answer. They had been 
 sent by Guakamatera, Barabra, chief of Juaya, and Roconcona, 
 chief of Kitana, and they accused me of having run away, declaring 
 at the same time that they would take me back by force. The 
 affair seemed to forebode a tragedy, and we thought that perhaps 
 it was the last and fatal phase of our misfortunes ; any hesitation 
 would have been our ruin. I gathered my people, who were 
 greatly frightened, declaring resolutely that even at the cost of my 
 life I would not go back, and as I stepped forward to continue the 
 descent, they followed me. 
 
 The warriors uttered loud cries, as leaving their positions, and 
 jumping from rock to rock, they converged towards us, obviously 
 bent on carrying out their threats of violence, when suddenly two 
 individuals appeared, lance in hand, messengers sent by Kagoro, 
 the great chief of Kibiro, who claimed my person, and extended 
 his protection to me because I was in his territory. 
 
 The rushing crowd stopped, and we descended to the village, 
 followed by our enemies, now reduced to silence, though disposed 
 to dispute the prey. 
 
 Kagoro gave us shelter in a comfortable dwelling, and sent us 
 two goats, besides three baskets of flour and some tobacco, with 
 this friendly message : " Take some rest, and have no fear. ; I have 
 no orders from the king about you.'" 
 
 That day and the subsequent night passed off without incident. 
 The village teemed with armed men, excited by drink and 
 quarrelling amongst themselves, but my house was under the
 
 CHUA'S MESSAGE TO EMIN. 307 
 
 custody of guards. Various chiefs who came to see rae poured 
 into my ears the strangest news. I was betrayed by my own 
 soldiers; people, speaking in the Governor's name, said things 
 quite different from those said by me ; the proposal of exchanging 
 blood was a whim of mine ; I was plotting with Muanga against 
 the king ; Emin was in perfect agreement with Chua, and disap- 
 proved of my conduct ; Abd Rehman, the Zanzibari merchant, the 
 friend of Babedongo, and adviser of Chua, had directed and 
 witnessed my capture from Guakatamera's house ; my effects and 
 the Government's ivory were to be confiscated, and sent to Mruli. 
 
 The Vizier, when he seized the the goods within my house, said 
 to the two Egyptian soldiers who were present : 
 
 " Tell the Governor of Wadelai that the severe steps which the 
 king has ordered me to take are required for the safety of the 
 State. The Governor's envoy hoisted the flag of his Government, 
 and aimed at the overthrow of our Sovereign, by plotting with 
 Muanga. Tell Emin that he has insulted and otherwise offended 
 the king, and that he tried to make himself popular amongst the 
 natives in order to cause rebellion ; but the king will not break the 
 friendship and alliance which connect him with the Pasha, and an 
 envoy will be sent to Wadelai in order to strengthen it." 
 
 This foolish, false, and infamous message was not altogether 
 without success : some persons believed the assertions contained in 
 it, for a failure influences the minds of the foolish and of the 
 wicked, and there had been a great deal of talk about that rag of 
 a banner. 
 
 I had hoisted the Egyptian colours during the war with Uganda, 
 with the full consent of the king, granted at Nparo, when I went 
 to visit him. When the hostilities ceased the country was overrun 
 by bodies of Magungo, who from the Baganghese district travelled 
 'lome to that of Anfina, recently conquered. The want of public 
 security, the complete abandonment in which I was left by the 
 king, and the conspiracies incessantly fostered for bringing about 
 my ruin, induced me to hoist that flag for my protection. My 
 decision, submitted to the king, was fully endorsed by him, and 
 confirmed later on by Guakamatera himself. 
 
 January 11, 1888. — To break another man's pipe is considered 
 a very great offence amongst the Wanyoro. The case is submitted 
 to the king with these formal words: " He has injured, or killed, 
 my companion ; " and the fine amounts to a goodly number of oxen. 
 When the offended party does not agree with the judgment, or if 
 neither applies for it, serious wounds, or even murder, are the final 
 result. Often such an offence is resorted to as a provocation, 
 when for some reason an individual wishes to draw another into a 
 quarrel. 
 
 Early in the morning a lively dispute was going on between one 
 of Guakamatera's guards and one of Kagoro's followers. The
 
 3o8 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 banassura had arrogantly and intentionally, without the least 
 provocation, wrested a pipe from the mouth of an inhabitant of 
 Kibiro and dashed it to the ground. The quarrel becoming worse, 
 I went to the door, and the guard immediately invited me to act as 
 judge between him and his opponent ; but I, well knowing the 
 habits of the country, guessed the trick, and excused myself on 
 the ground of indisposition, begging to be left alone, whereupon 
 they went away to settle their contentions elsewhere. At about 
 eight o'clock a number of guards came up begging for 
 cowries to buy beer ; I threw my waistcoat to them, for I did not 
 possess anything else ; they were not satisfied, but went away. We 
 were soon after ordered to depart, and did so, a crowd of armed 
 men accompanying us to the shore of the lake, where two boats 
 had already been prepared for us. I was ordered to embark in the 
 smaller one and my people in the other, but I objected to comply 
 with their treacherous request, declaring that force alone would 
 compel me to do so, and I appealed to some Kagoro chiefs, whom I 
 perceived in the crowd. We were then driven like a herd of cattle 
 to the salt-pits, and there left in custody of sentries posted at some 
 distance round. The crowd retired and assembled in front of the 
 house belonging to the chief of the village, to hold a consultation. 
 
 Although exposed to a scorching sun, permission to obtain a 
 little water from the lake close at hand was denied us, and thus 
 several hours passed away without an}' change in the situation. 
 At about 3 P.M. a servant was sent in search of a little fire, in order 
 that we might seek relief in smoking the tobacco presented to us 
 on the previous evening by Kagoro, but he did not return. At 
 four o'clock two ruffians from Guakamatera, presumably the chiefs 
 of the band, approached and bravely stole a box containing the few 
 clothes belonging to the two soldiers ; half an hour later we saw 
 our assailants meandering, one by one, up the mountain path and 
 disappearing successively. 
 
 The bay of Kibiro was then restored to its habitual monotony, 
 but no one came near us, because we were accursed and banished by 
 the king. 
 
 At about five o'clock the chief sent me a native as a guide to the 
 next village ; at about eight o'clock we reached the residence of 
 Tokongia, who gave us some fish and allowed us to spend the night 
 in a large hut ; but although peace and tranquillity seemed to pre- 
 vail everywhere, we decided to watch in turn. The strange events 
 of the last three days crowded on my mind, but the sorrow of 
 having lost my notes grieved me more deeply than any other of 
 my misfortunes. 
 
 At cock-crow, January 12, 1888, we started, accompanied by 
 Tokongia, and at about 7 a.m. we entered the village of Ntiabo. 
 Ntiabo was one of the king's wives, who, according to usage, had 
 had bestowed on her, the possession of a district as an appanage,
 
 PURSUED AND BEATEN. 309 
 
 which she rules and visits occasionally, taking up her residence 
 there at fixed dates. In her absence she is represented by a dele- 
 gate, who rules in her name and sends her the produce of the 
 district. The king grants lands as fiefs, not only to the wives, but 
 also to some of his favourites, from whom he receives a fixed pay- 
 ment, besides the assistance of fighting men in time of war. 
 
 When we reached Ntiabo, the king's wife was absent at Mruli 
 with her husband. We were received with indifference and sus- 
 picion, because the people knew of the judgment which had been 
 pronounced against us, and they avoided us as if we had been lepers. 
 
 Tokongia procured us a guide, who early in the afternoon left us, 
 on reaching the palace of a chief called Kapidi, a tall big man, lame 
 in the right foot, a cunning and facetious chatterer. I asked him 
 to conduct me to the Boki country, and though not absolutely 
 declining to do so, he excused himself on the ground that he had 
 no one on whom he could rely, and also because he was unable to 
 make a long journey ; however, he supplied us with some food, and 
 the day passed away without any incidents. Soon after sunset, 
 two of Guakamatera's messengers arrived, told our crimes, the 
 king's sentence, and announced what was to be done in these words, 
 " Neither food nor passage." The future seemed more gloomy than 
 ever, for the ferocious tyrant did not forget his victim. 
 
 On January 13, keeping along the shore of the lake escorted by 
 Kapidi, with two of his faithful followers as guides, a little before 
 noon we stopped in front of a small island, the residence of Meliuo, 
 one of the most feared chieftains of the Magungo. He wished me 
 to go to his residence, but that did not seem to me quite prudent. 
 He made us wait for several hours, and at last granted us permis- 
 sion to continue our journey, accompanied by two guides. 
 
 At four o'clock we entered a small village, ruled over by a certain 
 Amara, but as soon as we had advanced a few steps, all the natives 
 in a crowd rushed at us in a threatening manner, to make us go 
 back. The guides abandoned us, and the difficulties increased. 
 The savage villagers crying, " You shall neither be fed nor pass," 
 proceeded from threats to deeds, struck us with their sticks, and 
 drove us from the road towards the woods, till at last, after having 
 followed us for a long way, they left us. 
 
 Having restored our minds to the calm so much needed after our 
 abrupt expulsion from the village, we journeyed through the bush, 
 and succeeded in ao^ain finding the road to the lake. At about 
 sunset we were in presence of groups of miserable huts. I sent 
 one of the soldiers and my boy to parley with the inhabitants, for 
 the latter understood the language of the country pretty well ; and 
 having received no hostile reply, we camped out not far from the 
 village. During the night we were regaled, to our great surprise, 
 with a large plate of beans, for which we warmly thanked our 
 generous Ajnphytrion.
 
 3IO TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 In that village resided a young Dinka woman who had run away 
 from the ill-treatment of an Egyptian official of the Equatorial 
 Government, and had been married by the chief's son. She was 
 generally esteemed for her kindness, aud her activity in perform- 
 ing domestic duties. She assured us of her husband's kind dis- 
 position towards us, adding that his father was similarly inclined, 
 and gave us the precious news that on the 11th the Pasha had 
 reached Tunguru with the two steamers. 
 
 Our courage revived. Every one of my followers declared his 
 willingness to be obedient, and hope made our rest sweeter. 
 
 Meanwhile the chief Melino, having mustered a large number of 
 warriors (January 14, 1888), arrived at the village during the 
 night, and at sunrise called together the neighbouring chiefs, to a 
 meeting to decide on our fate. The most ferocious wanted to kill 
 me at once ; others suggested that we should be escorted as far as 
 the village of Eokora, on the Victoria Nile. After lengthy discus- 
 sions, interrupted by excited altercations — neither party being able 
 to arrive at a definite conclusion satisfactory to all — they agreed to 
 expel us from the district, and taking rods in their hands, drove us 
 away. But our persecutors were soon tired. The furious crowd 
 vanished by degrees, and we remained alone. 
 
 We walked for about two hours, then, turning into a secluded 
 and difficult marsh, we stopped to hold a consultation about the 
 most proper thing to do, and agreed that it was urgent to try and 
 get a boat, in order to cross the lake, reach Tunguru, and ask for 
 assistance there. After searching for some time, we succeeded in 
 finding an old boat in very bad condition, and even without oars. 
 But brave Fadl, an Arab from Dongola, did not hesitate to under- 
 take the arduous management of it. aud after sunset we issued 
 from our hiding-place, and waded through pools and sloughs, 
 continually sinking into holes made by the feet of hippopotami, 
 thrusting our way through the high grass, thorny hedges, and 
 clusters of reeds, sometimes wheeling to the right or left at the 
 sudden appearance of large amphibia, occasionally lying down, 
 alarmed at the sight of buffaloes. At last, towards midnight, we 
 reached a little hill near the lake. Plenty of water was our 
 substitute for food. 
 
 On January 15, 1888, two of the unhappy Biri's servants joined 
 us on the road, and accompanied us. I advised them to go during 
 the night to the hospitable house of the Dinka woman, in order to 
 obtain a little food ; the place was not far distant and the Melino 
 and Amara hordes had left the district, but they declined. At 
 dawn we perceived four canoes a long distance off, obviously 
 shaping their course with the intention of crossing the lake ; it 
 might have been a good opportunity for us and probably our 
 deliverance, but Hurshid, the Circassian soldier, had swollen feet 
 and could scarcely walk, and I could not be cruel enough to
 
 yE W PURSUERS. 3" 
 
 abandon him. Our condition was going from bad to worse ; dis- 
 couragement was obtaining a hold on the minds of my unfortunate 
 companions, aud they were all deeply affected, except young Oakil. 
 
 The sun rose, and we again threw ourselves amongst the ambatsh 
 and reed thickets, searching for roots to suck, when suddenly the 
 howling of savages warned us of the approach of new persecutors. 
 Parties of armed men were beating the bush, precisely as when a 
 search is made for game, and surrounded the place where we were 
 hiding, crying '' Majiinrjo, majungo !" (the foreigner, the foreigner!) 
 
 I then emerged from my hiding-place and faced the Magungo 
 people, who were irritated at the disappearance of their boat, but 
 their anger decreased when they saw I had not gone away. My 
 companions, who had fled in all directions, then came back. 
 
 The cursing and threatening continued ; the tone of it was some- 
 what improved, but the substance was the same. The wildest 
 suggestions were discussed, such as to seize the women as an 
 indemnity for the loss suffered ; to bind us in a row and take us 
 to the chief Melino ; or to put an end to the matter by taking a 
 well-merited revenge. By dint of discussing, promising, and 
 pointing out the probability of danger, I succeeded in calming some 
 of the most influential men, and the crowd finally resolved to escort 
 us out of their territory. 
 
 I felt happy at having escaped from danger this time also, with- 
 out hurt, and shaking hands with some of the chiefs, we proceeded 
 towards the slope of a hill. We walked for about two hours, and 
 then our guides left us in the neighbourhood of a village inhabited 
 by the Lur and Lendu men. 
 
 They would not receive us, and yet would not set us at liberty. 
 We asked for food, and some was shown us, but was quickly taken 
 away with jeers. A boy was struck, and on my remonstrating, I 
 received a blow from a stick. Then they assembled in council, 
 and the chief abruptly proposed that I should be executed. 
 
 "Makama," said he, "has ordered this fellow to be killed at 
 Rokora beyond the river, but it would be as well to do away with 
 him at once. To carry his dead body there is an easy matter ; we 
 should neither be troubled all day on his account, nor incur the 
 royal displeasure." 
 
 ^This proposal was translated to me by Hurshid's servant, who 
 knew the language of the Lur» 
 
 I then stepped forward and said : " If you have the courage to 
 carry out your resolution, come forward, I am ready ; but re- 
 member all of you that the king has ordered you to send me to 
 Rokora, and that such disobedience may cause punishment to the 
 whole village." 
 
 " No, no," cried they unanimously, " we won't kill you." 
 
 '•Well, send away that man who suggested such an unjust 
 resolution, and then we will talk together."
 
 3 1 2 TEN YEARS IN E QUA TORI A. 
 
 Cries of disapprobation pierced the ears of the matunfjoli, who 
 thoup^ht it best to beat a retreat. 
 
 A young man who had a smattering of Arabic and had been an 
 interpreter in the service of Mergian Aga Danassui-i, late com- 
 mander of the military station of Magungo, offered to act as an 
 intermediary between me and the Lur, from whom he obtained 
 permission for me to be restored to freedom on condition that he 
 should compel me to take the road to Rokora. My companions 
 grumbled, protested, and even thought that I had gone mad; but 
 I encouraged them in the best way I could, and exhorted them to 
 trust in me, assuring them that if a way of safety were possible I 
 would find it. We walked slowly ; my companions were tired, for 
 long fasting had decreased the vigour both of their bodies and 
 minds. 
 
 •'Man dies only by the permission of God," said I to the 
 Mussulman, Hurshid, who was troubled more than the others with 
 a painful feeling of discouragement. He smiled sadly, shaking 
 his head ; his face wore an aspect of sorrow like the country which 
 surrounded us. A few dry wild berries of a reddish colour, from 
 a thorny shrub, were the cause of our little caravan being suddenly 
 scattered ; but the eagerness with which they were picked up soon 
 stopped, for the caustic effect which they produced on the tongue 
 increased our sufferings. 
 
 The soldiers who formed our escort urged us to hasten our 
 march, and I begged them to have compassion. As the distance 
 from Rokora decreased, so our hope decreased, for in a couple of 
 hours we should reach the spot destined for our martyrdom. 
 
 We silently ascended the last hill which separated us from the 
 Nile, when all of a sudden we saw its ridge covered with warriors. 
 I begged our young interpreter to precede us, and to make them 
 understand that we were not going to oppose them — that we 
 intended going down the river, and hoped that they would not 
 increase our misery. He promised to say what I told him, and 
 started. His arrival on the opposite side was followed by lively 
 disputes, thundering cries, movement to and fro of warriors, and 
 the sudden appearance of men from behind the bushes. But soon 
 after the crowd dispersed, and took to flight. 
 
 What had happened ? Our young interpreter returned jubilant. 
 " The steamer ! the steamer ! " he cried, as he descended the hill 
 and approached us. He then informed us that the news had 
 spread of the appearance of a steamer on the lake, adding that it 
 was coming straight towards us. Our brave guides simply took to 
 flight, and the interpreter, after having shown us the way to the 
 lake, did the same. 
 
 The last rays of the setting sun warned us to hasten our steps. 
 As we descended the slope we discerned an unusual commotion 
 amongst the inhabitants, who were carrying away furniture and
 
 ON THE LAKE SHORE. 313 
 
 provisions, and driving off herds of cattle. They took no notice of 
 us. Their ferocity of the morning had vanished. We spoke to 
 some of them, but they did not answer, and hastened their depar- 
 ture, anxiously exclaiming, "The steamer ! the steamer! " 
 
 Was the steamer really on the lake ? Were we on the point of 
 being rescued ? We looked eagerly, but the darkness of the night 
 rendered fruitless all our efforts to see her. Restored to life after 
 a deadly anxiety — strengthened by hope — forgetful of past 
 sufferings — jesting at the fears of our persecutors, who had been 
 so threatening in the morning, we walked on, till at last we reached 
 the shore of the lake at about 11 p.m., and sat down on the sandy 
 promontory appointed as the place of our meeting with Fadl. Our 
 thirst was quenched by the clear waters of the sandy-bottomed lake, 
 and a crackling fire made with materials brought from the neigh- 
 bouring huts comforted us, and we fell asleep amidst the stillness 
 and darkness of the night, with the certainty of a happy morrow. 
 
 The stars were still shining in the sky, but our impatience was 
 such that already we were walking to and fro on the shore of the 
 lake, looking anxiously for a black spot on the horizon. The sun 
 was just emerging at our back in the fulness of its splendour. A 
 few timid natives in canoes were flying towards the islands, almost 
 hidden in the creeks. The cruelly lengthened expectation made 
 us silent. Our sad thoughts re-asserted themselves, but the pangs 
 of hunger overwhelmed sentiment. I ordered that some aquatic 
 herbs, resorted to by the Negroes in time of scarcity, should be 
 collected, and cooked in a large vessel taken from one of the houses 
 in the village. 
 
 If the steamer did not appear by noon, our plan was to construct 
 an ample raft of amhatsh, and to entrust our safety to the waves 
 — an operation of easy execution, for the frightened and fleeing 
 natives would not have troubled us. 
 
 At about nine o'clock a shrill cry interrupted the flow of thoughts 
 that had harassed my mind. It was caused by the sight of a streak 
 of smoke on the horizon. A little later the chimney of a steamer 
 was discerned, and then on came the vessel heri^elf, fully showing 
 her outline, and shaping her course by the signal we had hoisted 
 on the top of a pole — the white and red handkerchief of poor 
 Hurshid. All eyes were fixed on her, when suddenly she began 
 to move with uncertainty, and even seemed to stop ; her dimensions 
 decreasing gradually, till at last she disappeared. ^ly unhappy 
 companions uttered a cry of anguish and despair. I tried to make 
 them understand that the steamer was taking soundings to find 
 sufficiently deep water, but my words were of no avail. Their 
 scanty repast was interrupted, and the poor creatures presented a 
 lamentable appearance, sitting gloomily and silently on the ground 
 with bowed heads, their arms encircling their knees, and their 
 hands clasped together.
 
 3 1 4 TEN YEARS IN EQUA TORI A. 
 
 I withdrew from them, praying Heaven that the speedy re- 
 appearance of" the steamer might shorten their sufferings. One 
 hour later the Khedive was again in sight, steaming safely, and at 
 a satisfactory speed. We saluted her by waving our flag, and our 
 salutation was returned by the usual whistle, which we applauded 
 clamorously. 
 
 She cast anchor at a short distance from the shore, and a boat 
 conveyed us to her. Emin Pasha, with many of his officers and 
 officials, had attempted our rescue in spite of its apparent hopeless- 
 ness, and rather to fulfil a pious duty than with any expectation 
 of success. Joy at our unhoped-for safety made every one mute, 
 and fear only vanished by degrees, as if there was still a doubt as 
 to what had happened. 
 
 " And as a man, with difficult short breath, 
 Forespent with toiling, 'scaped from sea to shore, 
 Turns to the perilous wide waste, and stands 
 At gaze; e'en so my spirit, that yet fail'd. 
 Struggling with terror, turned to view the Straits 
 That none hath passed and lived." — Dante, Inftmo, Canto i.
 
 ( 315 ) 
 
 CHAPTER XXV. 
 
 THE ALBERT NYAXZA. 
 
 Opinions of the geographers of the first half of this century ou Central Africa — 
 Speke and Burton — Discovery of the Tanganika Lake — A great sea — The Vic- 
 toria Lake discovered by Speke — Rosher's explorations — The Nile flows from 
 Lake Victoria — Speke and Baker — Discovery of Lake Albert — Livingstone's 
 hypothesis contradicted by facts — Gordon in Equatoria — Equatoria ought to 
 find a commercial opening at Zanzibar — It opens a way by the Nile to the 
 lakes — Romolo Gessi explores the Albert Lake — The steamers K/iedire and 
 JS^i/anza — Colonel Mason's exploration — General Stone's opinion — Stanley and 
 the Beatrice Gulf — From Berber to Khartoum — The Nile between Khartoum 
 and Lado — Difficulty of the traffic by water in the Nile Valley — The sources 
 of the Nile — The Albert Lake — Conformation of its shores — The navigation 
 of the lake — Storms — Crocodiles^Fishing — The lake boats — Kibiro salt-works 
 Salt trade — Tribute to the king — Cultivation — Products of the forests — Fauna 
 — Inhabitants. 
 
 Geographers of the first half of this century were generally of 
 opinion that the central region of Africa was formed by an im- 
 mense internal sea, as large as half Europe. This great lake extended 
 from the southern end of the Nyassa, having its northeru limit 
 and its greatest bulk of water in the Equatorial zone ; but no 
 European explorations had confirmed this supposed distribution 
 of the river basins. 
 
 It was in 1858 that Speke and Burton, having started from 
 Bagamoyo, on the east coast of the narrow channel which separates 
 the African continent from Zanzibar — -with the purpose of making 
 discoveries about the great question of the sources of the Nile, 
 which was still a mystery — discovered Lake Tanganika, but were 
 unable to settle its northern borders. On returning to Tabora, the 
 two explorers, whilst occupied in comparing and arranging former 
 studies with the information they had received about the countries 
 surrounding the region explored by them, were given some vague 
 hiuts concerning the existence of a great sea, much larger than 
 the Tanganika, at a distance of not more than fifteen days' 
 march towards the north. Burton was prevented from joining the 
 enterprise on account of the deplorable state of his health. Speke 
 departed alone, and succeeded in discovering the A'ictoria Lake, of 
 which, however, he could see but a small part. 
 
 From that time explorations, crowned by discoveries of lakes, 
 followed each other rapidly, and the circumnavigation of them led 
 to the division of the grand African Mediterranean into a series of
 
 3 1 6 TEN YEARS IN E QUA TORI A. 
 
 great lacustral basins. In 1859 Livingstone reached the southern 
 shore of Lake Nyassa, and almost at the same time Rosher ex- 
 plored the eastern banks of the Tanganika. 
 
 Speke had conjectured that the Victoria Lake might be the reser- 
 voir from which the Nile had its origin, and as soon as he arrived in 
 England he projected an expedition, which started in the early 
 months of 1860. Feeling himself thoroughly competent, he did not 
 hesitate to accept the mandate of the Royal Geographical Society ; 
 and associated Captain Grant, his friend, in the enterprise. 
 
 He reached Uganda, by the route through the country of Kara- 
 gua, and the Kagera river; and on the 28th of July 1862 he 
 crowned his mission by witnessing the Nile flowing from the Victoria 
 Lake at the Ripon Falls. He then went to the north-west, and the 
 expedition reached the mountainous part of the Nile, near the spot 
 where Miani, an Italian, arriving from the north, had engi-aved his 
 name and the date of the event on the historical tamarind. 
 
 Sir Samuel Baker, a valiant hunter, fond of adventure, and wish- 
 ing to study and make known the Soudanese countries (shut in 
 by the desert and by the difiiculty of communication), started an 
 expedition to the region of the lakes, with the almost certainty of 
 meeting Speke and Grant. He arrived at Gondokoro on the 2nd 
 of February 1863, where a few days afterwards he greeted the 
 two brave explorers. On being informed by Speke of the existence 
 of a lake (in accordance with the statements of the natives), west 
 of Unyoro, into which the great river flowing from the lake poured 
 itself, he conceived the idea of completing the discovery of the 
 sources of the Nile, but for the love of study and as a compensation 
 for the troubles and expenses he had undergone. The explorations 
 which he and the brave Lady Baker carried out, amidst all kinds 
 of suSerings and dangers, led to the discovery of a new lake, 
 which he called Lake Albert. Whilst Stanley and Cameron ascer- 
 tained the boundaries of Tanganika and Victoria Lakes, Gessi 
 in the year 1876 completed the exploration of the Albert Lake. 
 The sources of the Nile were no longer a mystery, and Livingstone's 
 hypothesis, that it had its origin at 12° S. lat., had thus been con- 
 tradicted by facts. 
 
 On Baker's return, Ismail Pasha, Khedive of Egypt, sent Colonel 
 Gordon to pursue the exploration of the Upper Nile, to establish a 
 strong govei'nment in those regions, and to put an end to the slave 
 trade. Gordon began his government with energy and intelligence. 
 He occupied Bor, north of Gondokoro ; established a station on 
 the river Sobat ; concluded peace with the Bari tribe ; ascertained 
 the course of the Nile from Khartoum to Rejaf, as well as the 
 junction of the two lakes, Albert and Victoria ; and laid the basis 
 for opening up communications with them. 
 
 Having transferred the seat of government from Gondokoro to 
 Lado, he established a series of military stations for the protection
 
 BAKERS DISCO VERIES. 3 1 7 
 
 of the Nile route. Rejaf and Bedden at first, then Kirri, Muggi, 
 Lahore, Diifile, and Magungo, secured the way to the Albert 
 Lake. The road to Unyoro and Uganda was opened later on by 
 the Panyatoli, Foweira, Kirota, and Mruli stations. Gordon was 
 of opinion that Equatoria would find its outlet on the road to 
 Zanzibar. From Lado he wrote, '" The only valuable part of this 
 country is that formed by the tablelands of the kingdom of Uganda, 
 whilst the country south of Lado and Khartoum is but a miserable 
 marsh." The execution and completion of this plan, prepared by 
 a diligent exploration of Lake Albert, was entrusted by Gordon to 
 Gessi Pasha. 
 
 Before this voyage of circumnavigation took place, many 
 geographers were still of opinion that the lake discovered by Sir 
 S. Baker did not belong to the Nile hydrographic system, and that 
 the Victoria Nile discharged its stream directly into the Nile of 
 the mountains. The adventurous journey, and the observations 
 made at Magungo, were not conclusive enough to settle every doubt. 
 Gordon had first entrusted Chippendale and Watson with the explora- 
 tion of the lake, but, as they did not succeed in carrying out this 
 arrangement, he confided the enterprise to Gessi, who, with two iron 
 boats and a small escort, brought to completion the tour of the lake 
 amidst the greatest difficulties, unfavourable weather, and the con- 
 tinual hostilities of the natives. In the course of a few days Gessi 
 accomplished his task, having ascertained the length of the lake 
 to be 141 miles (224 kilometres), and its greatest width 50 miles 
 (80 kilometres), thus showing the erroneousness of the dimensions 
 given by Sir S. Baker. He confirmed the existence of impenetrable 
 marshes at its southern end. At the same time Gordon undertook 
 to explore the Victoria Lake, but through unforeseen circumstances 
 he was prevented from carrying out his project. A short time 
 previously the lake had been explored by Stanley, who for this 
 purpose had obtained from King Mtesa an escort of 2000 men. 
 
 Gordon, in order to prepare for the complete exploration of the 
 Albert Lake, had, since the year 1875, given orders that the 
 steamers KJiedive and Nyanza, left by Sir S. Baker, should be 
 carried to Dufile. The enterprise met with immense difficulties — 
 hostilities from the natives, obstacles in the navigation, and insuffi- 
 cient means. The steamers were broken into sections, and the 
 several pieces were dragged a long way over the road by men, and 
 where the river was navigable they were placed on large boats, 
 and thus transported. When the sections of the iVycm^a had been 
 brought beyond the Fola Fall they were put together, and the boat 
 was launched in the Dufile waters. 
 
 Towards the end of the year 1876, Colonel Mason, of the Egyptian 
 staff, accomplished the second circumnavigation of the Albert Lake 
 on board the steamer Nyanza. The results obtained differed 
 partially from Gessi's, and geographers were undecided in accepting
 
 3i8 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 the conclusions of either one or the other traveller. The authority 
 of General Stone made the scale incline in favour of the Italian 
 explorer. 
 
 On the 9th January 1876, Stanley cliscovered the watersheds of 
 the Lakes Victoria and Kuitan (Albert Edward Nyanzaj, which 
 latter he called Beatrice Gulf. He went down on the tableland, 
 which is at the altitude of about 1000 feet (300 metres) above the 
 level of the lake, but was prevented from pursuing the enterprise 
 any further by the refusal of the Waganda people to accompany 
 him. This is the most distant of the basins where the Nile has its 
 origin, and, as we know, communicates with the Albert Lake by 
 the river Semliki. In the year 1889 the geographical question as 
 to the sources of the great river, which for a long series of years 
 had by its mystery attracted the attention and the study of geo- 
 ' graphers, and enlivened the emulation of distinguished explorers, 
 was solved. The distance between Berber and Khartoum is about 
 250 miles (400 kilometres). According to Sir S. Baker's calculations, 
 the velocity of the current of the Nile varies between 10 and lo 
 miles an hour, and is interrupted by the Sixth Cataract. 
 
 Captain Watson, speaking of the navigation between Berber 
 and Khartoum, says : " After remaining a few days at Berber, we 
 went by steamer as far as Khartoum. There the river flows through 
 a range of hills, which, by diminishing its width, increase the 
 speed of its current. When the Nile is low it is impossible to pass 
 those rapids, except in boats of very little draught, on account of 
 the many sub-aqueous rocks. We went from Berber to IQiartoum 
 in six days, but the journey may be easily made in three or four." 
 
 By steamer the journey from Khartoum to Lado takes sixteen 
 days. The country through which the river flows presents various 
 aspects, according to the high or low level of the water. The 
 extension of the Nile, generally called Lake No, or Mokren-el- 
 Bohur, forms a large channel, the width of which varies with the 
 changing conditions of the current. It is bordered by extensive 
 grassy banks, floating on the water. 
 
 The Nuer tribe camp on this mobile land. 
 
 The shape of this lake is very irregular, owing to the force exerted 
 by the mass of waters to open a wider mouth when the river is 
 swollen ; the Bahr-el-Ghazal, rushing against the grassy surface, is 
 powerless to break the thickly intertwined herbage, but at that 
 point causes the channel to form an acute angle towards the east. 
 
 In the succeeding part, as far as Lado, the navigation of the 
 river is not very difficult, but throughout a perfect knowledge of 
 the route is required, in order not to deviate into one of the lateral 
 branches that are frequently met with, especially in the advanced 
 season of the rains, and also to avoid the many sandbanks. 
 
 The country between Lado and Eejaf, and from that place to 
 Bedden, is slightly undulating, and its cultivated fields extend to
 
 THE COUNTRY BETWEEN LADO AND REJAF. 319 
 
 the banks of the river. In the dry season steamers cannot go 
 beyond Gondokoro ; but boats at this time of the year go as far as 
 Bedden. 
 
 On account of the rapids, the change of boats takes place at 
 Bedden, from whence navigation is easy up to Kirri, near which 
 place the open ground, sloping slightly towards the river, narrows 
 it, and renders its passage hard and difficult. The country com- 
 prised in this locality and the villages Muggi and Lahore slope 
 gradually, and it is only at a short distance from this last place 
 that we observe a steep declivity on both sides of the river. The 
 many rapids of the Nile, though not difficult to pass, make naviga- 
 
 VIEAV OF THE BANKS SOUTH OF FOLA. 
 
 tion on it uncomfortable and dangerous. Between Lahore and 
 Dufile these rapids succeed each other frequently, and the Fola 
 cataract at its confluence with the Assua, enclosed between the 
 sides of a narrow neck, makes navigation impossible. For a space 
 covered by two hours' walking the road runs over a limited tract 
 of land on the side of the chain of mountains which slope towards 
 the western bank, and after that becomes still more mountainous. 
 Near the cataract a rock bars the way, and, leaving the bank of the 
 river, the road winds down the wild-looking hills in the neighbour- 
 hood of Dufile. 
 
 About 2 1 miles south of Fola the river is free from obstacles and 
 flows slowly ; small islands of papyri are scattered over its course, 
 which has frequent windings. The western bank is picturesque, 
 owing to its fine and extensive cultivation, whilst the opposite shore 
 is wild and desolate, and scattered over with bushes of papyrus.
 
 3-^0 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 The Nile, on account of its cataracts, from tlie great number of 
 its rapids, and the scarceness of forests where fuel might be 
 obtained, presents a series of difficulties to traffic by water. 
 
 In 1875 Colonel Gordon wrote: "Navigation from Lado to 
 Khartoum is almost impossible ; firewood is scarce, and becomes 
 more so every year ; there are numerous sandbanks." 
 
 The sources of the Nile are formed and flow from a vast basin 
 partly surrounded by a semicircle of mountains. In the eastern, 
 segment the range of heights describes a curve diverging from the 
 Abyssinian mass of mountains and from the surroundings of the 
 Blue Nile, reaching its highest altitude in the Equatorial lake 
 region. Tracts of alluvial land, and ranges of hills sloping down 
 to the plains, extend between the greatest line of heights and the 
 Nile. 
 
 These plains in the season of the rains are flooded by inundations. 
 To the south of this region between Lado and Dufile, the spurs of 
 the range of mountains slope down to large meadows, cut by 
 numerous streams of water, and scattered over with small isolated 
 hills, forming the region bounded by the Victoria Nile.^ 
 
 Westward the country extends in flat plains covered with trees 
 to about 62 miles (100 kilometres) from Lado, surrounded by a line 
 of heights which from the north-east run parallel to the river as 
 far as Dufile. There the range of mountains forms a small plain 
 near the river, and, turning towards the south-west, passes at no 
 great distance from Wadelai. skirts the Albert Lake, and with the 
 heights of Walegga forms the valley of Semliki, and borders the 
 western and southern shores of the Ruitan, or Albert Edward. 
 
 The Albert Lake, enclosed on the east by the heights forming 
 its waterparting with the Victoria Lake and on the west by the 
 mountain ranges of the Lur and Walegga countries, is a vast 
 elongated basin, stretching from north-east to south-west. It is 
 naiTOw at its origin, but gradually expands, forming ample bays; 
 and then becomes narrower again at its northern end. 
 
 At the point of junction Avith the Victoria Nile, the water is 
 stagnant in an inlet, and the accumulation of sand makes the 
 entrance to the lake difficult for large boats at the time of the 
 lowest water. The eastern shore is formed by protruding sand- 
 banks and terraces, on which successive phases of tlie action of the 
 waters are delineated by parallel lines. It appears that, even now, 
 whilst on the w'estern coast the waters are receding, their advance 
 on the eastern shore increases. Kibiro is situated on the eastern 
 coast of the Albert Lake on a level shore of small extension. 
 Behind it, to the south, rises Mount Kitana, its steep sides cut 
 into large and successive terraces, difficult to ascend. The coast is 
 formed of undulations of varying height, with woods between the 
 
 * This information is partially taken from " Notizie sulle provincie Egiziane 
 del Sudan, Mar Rosso ed Equatore, del Corpo di Stato Magpfiore." Roma, 1885.
 
 THE ALBERT LAKE. 
 
 321 
 
 water and the hills, the average distance between the lakes and 
 the heights being about a mile. 
 
 The uniformity and continuity of this configuration are broken 
 here and there by great rocks, covered by cuphorhia, wild date 
 pahns, and the beautiful Howers of the yellow stramonium (DafiLra 
 humilis). 
 
 At three hours' journey from Kibiro the Kiriangobi forest 
 appears on the ridge of the sloping mountains, and casts its dark 
 shadow along the shore, its gigantic trees broken here and there 
 by the silvery falls of the river Ngussi, and of several minor streams. 
 The land then slopes gradually to the Muenghe territory. At 
 
 I-ANnsCAl'E XEAU THE ALBERT LAKE. 
 
 Kieya the aspect of the lake is that of a marsh, covered with a 
 growth of papyri and ambatsh, Avhich becomes thicker towards the 
 south. 
 
 The western side of the lake is almost everywhere bordered by a 
 continuous range of mountains, rising like a wall, and sheltering 
 the waves from the north-westerly winds. This line of heights 
 proceeds tortuously, and forms plains of various size between the 
 foot of its hills and the waters of the lake. The force of the water 
 (not so strong perhaps on this bank as on the other) and the great 
 number of rivulets, together with the action of the rainfalls which 
 carry down the detritus, cause a perceptible progress in the exten- 
 sion of the western shore, and a consequent advance of the waters 
 on the opposite bank. The thick Tunguru wood, with its high 
 and leafy trees, screens from the winds of the north-east the
 
 3 2 2 TEN YEARS IN E Q UA TORI A. 
 
 village of the same name built on the borders of the lake, in the 
 midst of rich and thriving fields of grain, bananas, and cotton. 
 
 Navigation along the western coast is made difficult by the many- 
 sandbanks protruding in the lake to a great distance, and of vary- 
 ing and uncertain size. When the point of Msua is passed the 
 high mountains of Juguro rise almost perpendicularly from the 
 water, and bar the passage near the shore. Further south the 
 heights of Melindwa, which follow the bank of the lake and join 
 the Kavalli hills, leave a narrow shore on which are erected several 
 villages inhabited by fishermen. Numerous streams, like bands of 
 silver, rush down from the rocks in cascades and waterfalls, in the 
 midst of strips of still more vigorous and bright vegetation. 
 
 The lake cannot be freely navigated at Nsabe, Nyamsauzi, and 
 Were, because it is there a mere marsh scattered over with papyri 
 and ambatsh. From Cape Mina, on the western shore, the lake is 
 deep and navigable at any season. 
 
 " The spirit of the lake may cause winds to blow furiously, and 
 upset the boats with your soldiers,"' the king said to me one day ; 
 and he added, whispering, " The people of Kibiro are wicked, and 
 will take vengeance on your men if they use any violence to them." 
 
 It is a general belief — to which King Chua himself seems to 
 give credence for the convenience of his government — that an evil 
 spirit inhabits the depths of the lake, and at his caprice unfetters 
 the fury of the waves and raises storms. Veneration and devotion 
 may avail, however, to calm and prevent his anger, and for this 
 purpose sailors throw glass beads, fowls, &c., in the water. 
 
 The king's envoys throw in a certain kind of large cornelians 
 called genctot by the Arabs, the use of which is foi'bidden to others. 
 
 Violent winds, generally from the north-east, but sometimes 
 from the south, blow suddenly on the lake ; the water becomes 
 dark, waves fall one upon the other, and the storm rages, whistling 
 and thundering, the bearer always of desolation and affliction. It 
 often appears so quickly that boats at a short distance out have no 
 time to reach the land. 
 
 The lake is inhabited by enormous crocodiles, which at the 
 mouth of the Victoria Nile are to be seen by thousands. These 
 reptiles, however, are not actively hunted, there being in the 
 country a large supply of fish and hippopotamus flesh. 
 
 For fishing they use big iron hooks fastened at intervals to a long 
 line, which is left in the water all night, and taken away very early 
 next morning. 
 
 The lake is rich in varieties of fish, some of which are of immense 
 size. The flesh is preserved by drying at a fire or by smoking it. 
 The taste and smell acquired by the fish during this preparation 
 may be improved by wrapping it up in earth for a few hours before 
 cooking it. 
 
 Boats, some of considerable size, are formed from trunks of trees
 
 SALT FROM MINERAL EARTH. 323 
 
 hollowed out ; they are large enough to allow the natives to carry- 
 on commerce between the two coasts, especially the salt trade, an 
 important branch of industry diffused over distant points of this 
 extensive region. The greatest quantity of this article is obtained 
 from the Kibiro salt-mines, and is the main source from which the 
 inhabitants of that land obtain their livelihood. 
 
 At Kibiro, the natives gather some whitish earth from the 
 ground, permeated by a stream of mineral water which flows from 
 Mount Kitana, and spreads its wealth in the neighbourhood. This 
 earth is placed eight inches thick in rectangular trenches, prepared 
 for the purpose, and constantly filled with water. After a certain 
 lapse of time, sufficient to saturate it with salt, this water is taken 
 out and boiled for a long time in earthenware vessels. 
 
 The salt precipitated by evaporation is then dried, wrapped up 
 and moulded into blocks, which are hung from the roof of the huts 
 to keep them dry. 
 
 The chief of Kibiro annually pays the king a tribute of one 
 thousand of these blocks, weighing about twenty-two pounds each. 
 The monarch distributes this salt to the Wahuma shepherds, to be 
 given with water to their cattle ; for the service of his household, 
 he uses Usongora salt. The chief of the salt-works carries on a 
 very active trade in this product, which he exchanges for corn, 
 sesame, oxen, tobacco, wood, cloths, &c. This business is not 
 limited to the region of the lake, but extends to Uganda, where on 
 the confines of the country there are many much frequented 
 markets. 
 
 The king, besides the quantity fixed as a tribute, purchases more, 
 giving oxen in exchange. 
 
 The land, flat, or nearly so, bordering the shores of the lake, is 
 brightened by fields of grain, Colocasia escidcnte, sweet potatoes 
 (Batata edidis), and groves of bananas. A variety of nutmeg-tree 
 grows in the woods of Msua ; Indian canes, bamboos, and tama- 
 rinds here and there break the majestic obscurity of the forests. 
 
 Flights of cranes and wild ducks are seen in the reed thickets 
 and the swampy spots of the shore, while on the sandy banks 
 plovers, the foretellers of storms, pursue each other shrieking. 
 Birds of various plumage, innumerable butterflies, flit about in the 
 bushes, and fly merrily over the grassy level land. Elephants and 
 buSaloes come out at sunset from the recesses of the forest in 
 crowds to drink at the waters of the lake, but at night they spread 
 ruin over the crops of corn and the banana groves, joined in their 
 mischief by numerous hippopotami, colonies of chimpanzees, and 
 several varieties of dog-headed apes which live in the Jugoro 
 bushes at Msua, and in the east of the Kiriangobi forest. Populous 
 villages are dotted about the coast of the lake. 
 
 The Magungo Baba occupy the country from the Victoria Nile 
 peninsula as far as the Muenghe territory, which is inhabited by
 
 324 TEN YEARS IN EQUATOR! A. 
 
 the Wahuma. The Liir live on the western coast, and although 
 they do not belong to the kingdom of Unyoro, they recognise the 
 supremacy of that monarch. 
 
 The chiefs Boki, Takende, and Acoi pay annual tribute to King 
 Chua. Melindwa, the most powerful chief of the Lur on the moun- 
 tains, is a faithful ally of that gi*eat tyrant. 
 
 The southern regions of the lake by Kavalii, Mpigwa, and 
 Katonzi, formerly rich in cattle, were devastated several times by 
 the raids of the Unyoro men, whose king they acknowledge from 
 motives of fear and interest, although they have never been sub- 
 dued by him.
 
 ( 325 ) 
 
 CHAPTER XXVI. 
 
 FIRST NEWS OF STANLEY'S APPROACH. 
 
 Woe to the vanquished — A dignified proposal — Unexpected answer — Faithfulness 
 and disinterestedness badly rewarded — Proposals for the soldiers — Death of 
 Hiirshid — Cunning policy of the King of Unyoro— Its consequences — Ballula 
 on the Vurvira mountain — Enchantment of Sunga and congratulations of 
 Umma — The allied Lango — Contradictory news — Sunga's son— Arrival of 
 Stanley— Emin's departure for Msua — Raids into the countries bordering on 
 the Nile — Search for Stanley — Reticence of the natives — Interior condition of 
 the province — Major Rehan Aga — His declarations — His death — New misfor- 
 tune — Major Hamid Aga — Demands of the soldiers — Ali remains — Emin does 
 not accept advice from me— Fatal order — Pernicious lull — Demands and pro- 
 posals of the 1st battalion — Emin at Kirri — His flight — The firman granting 
 the title of Pasha— Defeat of Befo, chief of the Belinian — Stanley at Ndus- 
 suma — The wife of Mpigwa — The brave Mogo — The 27th of April 1888 — 
 Stanley's letter — Advice about the best thing to do. 
 
 Woe to the vanquished, and I was one of them ! The joyous recep- 
 tion soon came to an end. The message which the soldiers Fadl 
 and Hurshid had heard from Guakamatera himself was believed, 
 and strengthened the believers' hope in the future. I was accused 
 of having rendered the position of the Government difficult by my 
 extremely harsh behaviour ; of having carried on, stubbornly and 
 foolishly, the negotiations with the King of Unyoro and his 
 grandees ; of having ruined the future of the Province, wasted the 
 ivory, lost the advantage of an arrangement for conveying the 
 correspondence and for revictualling the storehouses, and of having 
 alienated the heart of a friendly and benevolent king. Emin joined 
 in the accusations, but added that the matter would have no serious 
 consequences ; that Chua had acted only from personal aversion ; 
 that intercourse with him was about to be resumed by the despatch 
 of a more acceptable ambassador, and that the prince of Unyoro 
 contemplated with pride the idea of an alliance with " his friend 
 the doctor." 
 
 On my arrival I proposed sending one of the steamers to Kibiro 
 with a letter for the king, requesting him to give up, within fifteen 
 days, Biri, the soldiers, the guns, and the ivory of the Government, 
 which he had seized, and also my personal effects, with the threat 
 that, if he did not yield within the fixed time, the Governor would 
 maintain his right lay force and avenge the outrage. 
 
 This just proposal was unanimously supported by the most dis- 
 tinguished amongst the officers, who were burning with the desire
 
 326 TEN YEARS IN E QUA TORI A. 
 
 to give a well-merited lesson to the inhuman tyrant ; but the reply 
 of the Governor did not answer the general expectation. According 
 to him, I ought to be quite satisfied with having got out of the 
 scrape alive, and the most urgent matter was to resume a friendly 
 intercourse with Unyoro on account of the transit of the correspond- 
 ence through Uganda. This, according to him, was an easy under- 
 taking, which rested entirely with him. Emin's behaviour at that 
 time was ungrateful and presumptuous ; I therefore maintained a 
 dignified silence, feeling convinced in my conscience that I had 
 fulfilled my mission with circumspection and prudence, without 
 intrigues or cowardice. I did not wish for either thanks or recom- 
 pense, but was profoundly wounded to find these accusations sup- 
 ported by a friend in whose service I had risked my life, and referred 
 to with a cunning smile, as if I had been a child. It is true that in 
 my distress I derived much consolation from the friendly words and 
 letters written to me by the officers and emjoloyes. 
 
 I sent a request to the Governor that he would reward the two 
 soldiers who had been my companions in the flight from Unyoro, 
 and obtained, not without difficulty, the consent that Fadl should 
 be promoted to the rank of an officer and Hurshid to that of a non- 
 commissioned officer. But the latter died shortly after in conse- 
 quence of an illness he had contracted during those days of terror 
 and grief. From that day, when King Chua began to crave the 
 arms, ivory, and territory of Equatoria, he turned all his attention 
 to acquiring the friendship of the tribes bordering on the Nile and 
 the lake, and fully obtained his object, either through respect or fear. 
 
 The natives avoided the military stations ; refused to pay tribute 
 of corn, or to serve as carriers, waging thereby an indirect war ; 
 and whenever they felt themselves strong enough they openly be- 
 came the attacking party. This situation was rendered more serious 
 from the arrogance and want of discipline among the soldiers, whose 
 continual violence and extortions sowed the seeds of hatred and 
 revenge. 
 
 Whilst the country lay open to the agents of the King of Unyoro, 
 the Governor could neither get a faithful messenger nor obtain 
 reliable information. 
 
 The chiefs Sunga, Boki, Reja, and Okuza were more or less 
 manifestly allied to our bitterest enemy. 
 
 Ballula, who had entrenched himself on the Vui'vira mountain, 
 attacked the soldiers of Dufile with muskets, assisted by a strong 
 body of Shooli, besides other men sent by Chua. Okuza laid an 
 ambush for the soldiers who were searching for corn on the Tunguru 
 mountains. Two attempts to send letters to Unyoro failed, and 
 what the king was planning, or what was going on, remained an 
 impenetrable mystery. 
 
 When asked for news, the natives answered humbly, and with 
 apparent eagerness, but gave the most contradictory intelligence.
 
 DECEIT OF THE NATIVES. 
 
 327 
 
 Umma, cliief of the country between Tungnru and Msna, went 
 to congi'atulate Emin on his escape from the incantations with 
 which Sunga, by order of King Chua, intended to destroy him and 
 
 A SIIOOLI CilEL. 
 
 all his soldiers ; while Sunga, on the other hand, gave out, most 
 cautiously, the news that five hundred warriors were mustered at 
 Kibiro, and that the peninsula of Magungo was supplied with 
 strong garrisons.
 
 3 2 8 TEN YEARS IN E QUA TORI A. 
 
 Others asserted that tlae Wanyoro had crossed the Victoria Nile, 
 and were making arrangements for storming Wadelai, in alliance 
 with the Lango, to whom the king had promised the country of the 
 Shooli. Kolikio, matimgoli of the chief Boki, related that he knew, 
 from a reliable source, that Guakamatera had been put in chains 
 on account of the outrage perjDetrated on Biri and myself; whilst 
 Makiera, the Governor's interpreter, assured us that the king had 
 ordered our arrest and execution in a fit of intoxication ; that, 
 having recovered consciousness, and hearing that his order had 
 been executed, he was furiously angry. A certain Avanda gave 
 out that the king had given the order against us, on being told of 
 the approach of a hostile body of men towards the lands west of the 
 lake, but had afterwards ordered Guakamatera to send the effects 
 which had been seized to Tunguru, and to announce there the early 
 arrival of an ambassador, as he was convinced he had committed a 
 great error. 
 
 The son of chief Suuga, who usually resided at the King of 
 Unyoro's Court, having retm'ned to his father in Equatoria, re- 
 ported that at the time of Biri's and my expulsion he was at Mruli, 
 and that he was present at the council when the proposal of our 
 assassination was made and approved, adding that all hope of 
 recovering the lost goods and effects must be given ujd. 
 
 " Stanley has arrived," was the news I gave on the 16th, as soon 
 as we were received on board the steamer Khedive, and shortly 
 after I informed Emin of the news communicated to me personally 
 by Ireta's envoy about the body of armed men which had been 
 observed on the south-western shores of the Albert Lake. On the 
 morning of January 30 the Governor embarked direct for Msua, in 
 order to go from that station to meet the Relief Expedition. 
 
 I wished to accompany him. but was prevented from doing so by 
 the unfavourable state of my health, but I was present when he 
 went on board the steamer, greeted by a crowd of officers and 
 employes. He sat down at the stern of the boat, and, hearing me 
 repeat a salutation previously unnoticed, he said, " I did not see 
 you : I thought you had not come." I bit my lips, and smiled. 
 His affected indifference was but the continuation of the anger 
 which had possessed him for several days. As I went away I 
 thought of the advice given and slighted, and of this additional 
 wrong inflicted on me after the many already suffered. On reach- 
 ing Msua, Emin heard from all sides uncertain, contradictory, and 
 sometimes disquieting 'news, all of which detracted from the 
 vaunted probity of the King of Unyoro, and prevented his pur- 
 suing the projected reconnoissance. 
 
 Being convinced of the necessity of repressing the increasing 
 audacity displayed in the tracts adjacent to the eastern shores of 
 the lake, the Governor, on February 6, ordered an expedition into 
 the Magungo territory, on the left shore of the Victoria Nile, and
 
 EMJN GOES TO MEET STANLEY. 329 
 
 a subsequent attack on the chief Okello, who had openly declared 
 himself in favour of King Chua. However, it was impossible to 
 carry out the first part of the plan, because there was not sufficient 
 water for the navigation of the steamer ; but the rebel village of 
 Lur was sacked and burned. 
 
 On the 9th February another raid was made upon those lands, 
 in which they captured a number of goats and a quantity of corn. 
 On the 12th Emin asked me by letter to go to JMsua, to hold a 
 consultation with him about the intended attack on the salt pits of 
 Kibiro, in order to destroy the source of the wealth of that country, 
 but the fever from which I was suffering compelled me to decline 
 the invitation. 
 
 At last, on February 25, 1888, Emin started from Msua to look 
 for the Relief Expedition led by Stanley ; but the search was with- 
 out success. The chiefs of the villages were very reticent in giving 
 information, and some of them even denied altogether the presence 
 of strangers in the adjacent districts. Others who seemed inclined 
 to speak were prevented from doing so by their people, whilst a few 
 asserted that the whites had been seen near Katonzi, but that they 
 had left long ago. 
 
 The fatal hand of King Chua, ever raised against us, inspired 
 fear in all, ready as it was to strike us at any moment. 
 
 On March 6, 1888, Emin returned to the station of Msua. On 
 the 21st, Babedongo, with a strong body of hanasiHira, fell upon 
 the poor districts south of the lake, and laid them waste, because 
 those populations had favourably received the agents of the Govern- 
 ment, and given information to the Governor. On the 18th of 
 ]\Iarch, yielding to Emin's urgent request, I went to Msua. He 
 still adhered to the project of attacking Kibiro. However, I 
 succeeded in persuading him, if not to give it up, at least to post- 
 pone its execution. I vividly remembered the hospitality and pro- 
 tection bestowed upon me by the chief Kagoro, and the thought 
 of the evil which might befall him grieved me. 
 
 The internal condition of the Province had not improved during 
 these last years. Toleration had led to want of discipline, which 
 had been the cause of numerous disorders. The authority of the 
 Governor, weakened by persistent attacks, had been almost annihi- 
 lated, and the honours still shown him were of a derisive sort. 
 
 As far back as the month of April 1886, Major Rehan Aga, of 
 the 1st battalion, invited the Governor to an interview at Kirri, in 
 order to have an understanding about the conduct of the Govern- 
 ment. 
 
 " Who is the Mudir ? " wrote he in his letter. " I cannot 
 receive orders from the Major commanding at Dufile." He 
 declared himself a faithful subject of the Egyptian Government, 
 adding that he and his subordinates would adhere to the resolution 
 of not leaving the station, but the fear of the Bari, who were not
 
 330 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 yet subdued, and the probable desertion of tbe soldiers, who were 
 natives of Makraka, compelled him to quit it. 
 
 Rehan Aga died on May 19, 188G, and his unexpected death 
 gave rise to the suspicion that he had been poisoned, which was 
 corroborated by the fact that shortly before his illness he swore on 
 the Koran that he would rather die than go to the south. Ali 
 Effendi, an Egyptian captain, was pointed out as the assassin. It 
 was another misfortune added to those which had so long afflicted 
 the Province, and which caused further excitement in already 
 irritated minds. 
 
 Major Hamid Aga was appointed to fill the vacant place. He 
 was an old Soudanese, timid, and of limited intelligence, but 
 beloved by his soldiers for his goodness and honesty in the discharge 
 of his duty, although inclined to severity. 
 
 Accompanied by Selim Aga and the doctor, he presented him- 
 self to the troops, who unanimously promised him obedience, but 
 demanded the dismissal of Major Hawashi, and that his inter- 
 course with Emin should cease. 
 
 " If the Governor wants corn, give us spades and we will culti- 
 vate the land for him," the troops said. 
 
 Hamid, Selim, and the doctor prepared to return to the Pasha to 
 inform him of the state of affairs, but the soldiers opposed the 
 departure of Ali Effendi. 
 
 " The Mudir said he was going to Gondokoro, but instead of 
 that he has fled. Now, if you go, who remains to take care of us ? 
 Are we not still the Viceroy's soldiers ? " 
 
 And prudence required that Captain Ali should remain. 
 
 At that time the troops (not yet openly mutinous) could easily 
 have been brought to obedience, had wise concessions been granted 
 and energetic measures taken. I had already writted from Juaya 
 to Emin, endeavouring to persuade him to get rid of Hawashi, an 
 intriguer, who had been the first cause of the lamentable condition 
 into which the Province had fallen, and to replace him by a man 
 of more courage and probity ; also to arrest and remove Captains 
 Ali Aga and Ghiaden Aga, who were the leaders of the opposition 
 at Rejaf. But Emin turned a deaf ear to my counsel. He did 
 not like to break off the alliance with Hawashi, which he himself 
 had sought, and fear prevented his proceeding energetically against 
 the other two officers. The spectre of open rebellion haunted him, 
 and of all the measures which appeared most opportune he chose 
 the worst. He again pompously gave the order for evacuating the 
 stations, granting authority to punish with death any refusal ; the 
 command, however, remained a dead letter, and only served to 
 increase the animosity already existing against him. 
 
 Emin thus lost more of his prestige. 
 
 A long lull followed this storm. Instead of applying to the 
 Governor when in difficulties, the officers acted in an independent
 
 DEA TH OF RE HAN AG A. 331 
 
 fashion, their only communications being formal documents about 
 accounts, which were conveyed as far as the boundary of the 
 territory over which they held jurisdiction. 
 
 Emin, unable to recover the reins of command which had been 
 wrested from him, consoled himself with the hope of a better 
 morrow, to be brought about by unforeseen circumstances. Twelve 
 long months passed without a conciliatory word from the 1st 
 battalion. 
 
 Suddenly, in October 1887, a deputation was sent to the 
 Governor with a letter urging him to go to Rejaf, and attend a 
 general assembly there, to arrange about their submission, which 
 they offered on the following conditions : — Removal of Major 
 Hawashi from Dufile, and appointment of another in his place ; 
 removal of Caj^tain Selim Aga for fraudulence in the distribution 
 of the linen acquired in Uganda ; grants of promotion similar to 
 those lately bestowed on the 2nd battalion ; compulsion of the 
 commanding officer to take up his residence in Rejaf, together 
 with his family, and the appointment of Captain Ali Aga as his 
 adjutant ; moreover, that the account department should be 
 reorganised according to law, and the vice-governor, who had been 
 suspended for three years, reinstated. 
 
 They concluded by saying they were not unwilling to leave 
 Makraka, and to go south later on, but above all they wished to 
 confer with him free from any pernicious influence, and to show 
 him clearly who were the real disturbers of the peace of the 
 Province. 
 
 Emin, trusting in a complete success, hurriedly left Msua on the 
 lake, and went to Wadelai (November 1887), whence, after settling 
 the most urgent affairs, he journeyed to Dufil^ where the display 
 of false zeal and the revelations poured into his ear, damped his 
 ardour. Travelling from station to station, he reached Kirri, and 
 found himself in a snare. Diffident and suspicious, he sent ignor- 
 ant spies to Rejaf, and thus excited distrust in others. He refused 
 to go there ; listened to miserable insinuations, and separated 
 himself from his old soldiers, whom he had called around him. 
 Meanwhile he was expected at Rejaf, and the officers, alarmed by 
 the delay of his arrival, considered themselves in duty bound to 
 satisfy the will of the soldiers, who exclaimed : " Let the Governor 
 be fetched, let him be brought to us ; '' but another plan prevailed. 
 Ali Aga was to arrest Emin and take him to Gondokoro, where he 
 was to be kept in custody. The latter fled hastily in the night, 
 without escort or effects, and shut himself up in Muggi, ordering 
 that should any soldiers appear on the road to Kirri they were to 
 be repelled by force. At Muggi he received the firman bestowing 
 upon him the title of Pasha, which I had sent from Juaya on 
 December 2 ; but the public mind was uneasy and bent on dis- 
 believing everything, and Emin withdrew towards the south.
 
 33- 
 
 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 MAJUi: HAU ASHI KtiKMyl. 
 
 gladdened by the triumphal honours conferred upon him along the 
 road, by the faithful of the 2nd battalion. Having reached Dufile 
 he repealed some severe measures ; reinstated the vice-governor 
 and his secretary, and continued his journey towards Wadelai and
 
 ADVICE TO EMIN. 333 
 
 Tunguru, where he received the news of the misfortuue which had 
 befallen me, and was cast down by this additional failure of his 
 expectations. Uncertain and hesitating as to what he should do, 
 he asked by private letter for the despatch of two companies of the 
 1st battalion, to resist the King of Unyoro, but his request was 
 refused. 
 
 In March 1888, the soldiers of Rejaf defeated Befo, chief of the 
 Bari of Belinian. Emboldened by this victor}', and enriched by the 
 pillage of cattle, they re-garrisoned the places about Makraka 
 which had been abandoned, and established autonomous adminis- 
 tration. 
 
 On his return to Tunguru, Emiu made every effort to obtain 
 news of the Relief Expedition. The Negroes of Msua asserted 
 that some armed strangers and white men were in 'the territory of 
 Ndussuma, and it was said that the wife of chief Mpigwa, who 
 was a native of that country, had seen them. Mogo, a bold moun- 
 taineer of Msua, well known in the regions adjacent to the lake 
 for his frequent excursions, was despatched in the beginning of 
 April with a letter for Stanley. 
 
 On the 20th we heard from Stanley that he was at Nyamsanzi, 
 awaiting the answer to the letter he had given to Mpigwa. 
 
 At sunset on April 2o, when we were assembled as usual at the 
 Governor's house, musket shots were heard on the road leading 
 from the mountain to the station, causing us to rush out at once. 
 An officer of the British Expedition, bearing a letter from its 
 commander, had arrived the evening before at Msua, where he 
 had stopped, in the expectation of a meeting with Emin Pasha. 
 
 On the evening of the 27th, by the dim light of a lamp, Emin 
 read and translated to me and to Hassan the long letter sent by 
 Stanley. It was an Odyssey full of the vicissitudes, sufferings, 
 and misfortunes undergone by the Expedition ; of the sickness, 
 starvation, inclemency of the weather, and the difficulties of the 
 route. An immense, impracticable, and uninhabited forest ; an 
 almost continual scarcity of provisions had decimated its forces, 
 (^ompelled by necessity, he had divided it, leaving the main body 
 at Yambuya, and the sick at Fort Bodo ; while he, accompanied 
 by Dr. Parke, Mr. Jephson, and 130 armed men, had regained 
 the lake, which had already been ^dsited by him at the end of 
 the preceding December. 
 
 Having finished reading this letter, which surprised us more 
 than we had expected, Emin asked my opinion as to what ought 
 to be done under the circumstances, and I candidly said : 
 
 " The position in which Stanley has placed himself is not flat- 
 tering either to his hopes or ours. His communication with the 
 main body of the Expedition has been broken for months. "We 
 cannot follow him to join it, on account of the difficulties of the 
 route he has chosen. Such an adventure would be folly ; it would
 
 334 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 be rushing headlong to perdition. Therefore, it seems more advis- 
 able that he should rejoin the main body and return with it to us. 
 This implies a delay of more than eight months, and the chance of 
 our waiting for his return in vain. In my opinion, since the last 
 explorations of Grenfell have proved the Obangi to be our Makua, 
 I think such a route would be a favourable one for the exodus. 
 It lies through countries familiar to us, and well supplied with 
 provisions ; and the natives are friendly. The soldiers would 
 certainly not decline to follow it, Mambettu-land being well 
 known to them all by reputation. I believe that the natives 
 would come forward to supply our needs, because they are accus- 
 tomed already to see their country crossed by armed strangers, 
 for whom they entertain feelings, if not of sympathy, at least of 
 respect ; therefore my opinion is that we should fulfil the duty 
 of visiting Stanley, and thanking him for his heroic display of 
 perseverance in our favour, that we should assist him with the 
 help, however small, the Province can afford, but at the same time 
 inform him of our resolution." 
 
 At that time, and under the impression of a new and unforeseen 
 event, Emin thought the advice wise, and said that he agreed 
 with it.
 
 ( 335 ) 
 
 CHAPTER XXVII. 
 
 ARRIVAL OF THE EXPEDITION. 
 
 Emin apf)eals to the philanthropy and humanity of the English people — Stanley 
 is summoned — The road to be followed by the Relief Expedition — There is no 
 other than that of the Congo — Provisions fail — The Expedition separates — A 
 disastrous road — Route proposed by Felkin recommended by Schweinfurth 
 and Junker — Peters on the eastern road — Route by Kibali and the Bomokandi 
 — The 29th of April 1888 — Henry Stanley — Hope and joy — Emin is not decided 
 about his departure — I remain with Emin — Stanley refuses to perform an act 
 of courtesy by visiting the station — Emin does not explain the dissensions in 
 the Province — His good faith is not justified — Jephson remains witli Emin — 
 Stanley's letter and sword — Stanley's proposals to Emin about the future — 
 Scientific labours bear fruit — An angle of Lake Victoria — The arrival of Stan- 
 ley increases our weakness — Stanley's error in dividing his Expedition — The 
 post of commander — Departure of Stanley — King Chua does not forget us — 
 Horrible butchery at Ivibiro — The arrogance of King Chua does not alter— He 
 knows of our precarious condition — Minds are agitated — A complaint is made 
 to Stanley — Consequent anger and indignation— Measures of excessive rigour 
 — I cannot succeed in restraining Emin's hand — Jephson incredulous as to my 
 experience and knowledge — The fruit of four years' work and observation — - 
 Faithful to the Pasha — Advice that I gave Emin. 
 
 Emin had appealed, at the end of 1885, to the philanthropy and 
 humanity of the English people, and not in vain, for the eminently 
 practical genius of that nation, excited by the pathetic and per- 
 suasive words of the Rev. Mr. Felkin, for the preservation of 
 Gordon's lieutenant, grasped the idea of the use that might be 
 derived from the generous undertaking. And the English Govern- 
 ment, whilst formulating its adhesion to a Relief Expedition of an 
 exclusively national character, availed itself also of the aegis of the 
 Crescent. While effecting the liberation of Emin it clearly saw 
 the possibility of carrying out practical projects for an accession 
 of territory and for the triumph of British supremacy in the region 
 of the Equatorial lakes. Prompt action answered the request for 
 aid, the donations of the benevolent were ready and abundant, and 
 the ivory, shut in by the Soudanese rebellion, charmed the imagi- 
 nation of many. 
 
 The enterprise, at once daring and cautious, needed a leader who 
 could be relied on, and Sir William Mackinnou obtained the co- 
 operation of Stanley. He, with the eminent qualities that distin- 
 guish him, overcoming a thousand difficulties, in a short time 
 organised the Expedition, and rejecting various projects as to the 
 road to be taken (after having allowed them to be discussed from
 
 Z3(> TEN YEARS IN E QUA TORI A . 
 
 mere complaisance), decided on that of the Congo — the glorious 
 scene of his former feats. 
 
 The eastern road by Zanzibar was rejected by hiui through fear 
 of the desertion of the porters and from the probability of causing 
 danger to the missionary stations ; the want of water and provi- 
 sions made the road across the Masai country also unacceptable for 
 the transit of a numerous caravan ; and the 200,000 warriors of 
 the Nkole gave an uncomfortable perspective of the route from 
 Usukuma to Karaguaand the Albert Lake. He had to reach Emin 
 with arms, ammunition, and merchandise, and he could not 
 guarantee the success of the Expedition by these routes. 
 
 The certainty of receiving substantial aid from the King of the 
 Belgians induced him to select the road that crossed the Free State 
 of the Congo. He knew the country ; was certain of not having to 
 tight with hostile tribes ; and did not fear the desertion of his 
 porters, or wounding the susceptibility of the Germans. On that 
 road there were no missionary establishments whose safety might 
 be endangered ; and the certainty of arriving in full force was 
 apparent. Such was his belief. The reasons of Felkin, supported 
 by the authoritative words of Schweinfurth and Junker, had no 
 weight with him, and Thompson's opinion as to the way through 
 the Masai had no better success ; even Wills, who, though suggest- 
 ing the road by the Congo, advised reascending the Obangi-Makua, 
 had not the pleasure of seeing his proposition discussed. 
 
 Stanley, being the discoverer of the course of the Congo, and the 
 founder of the Free State, bound as he was by agreement with the 
 King of the Belgians, and by ties of sentiment with that country, 
 was induced to take this route by the thought of again seeing the 
 well-known valley, ascertaining its progress, and eventually the 
 errors of administration committed by his successors. 
 
 Leaving the Congo, he decided to reascend the Aruwimi, which 
 he had already identified with Schweinfurth's Welle, hoping also 
 to complete explorations in the basin of the great river, for which 
 purpose he had solicited the despatch of fifteen whale-boats from 
 England. Facts, however, proved contrary to the prevision of the 
 leader. The flotilla of the Congo was in a deplorable state ; the 
 whale-boats were not sent, and he was obliged to avail himself of 
 the assistance of a steamer of the English mission ; the C9nduct of 
 the members of the caravan kept the natives away from the markets, 
 and the want of provisions put him at a disadvantage from the very 
 first. The difiiculties of proceeding rapidly augmented every day, 
 and he found himself constrained to separate from the main body 
 of the Expedition — not yet completely assembled — and speedily 
 direct his steps towards the lake in order to arrive in time to save 
 Emin, who, according to Junker, had not means to defend himself 
 after December. 
 
 The route led him across the Great Forest, where his people were
 
 STANLEY'S ARRIVAL. 337 
 
 decimated by the hostility of the natives, by hunger, sickness, and 
 desertion ; and it was only at the end of one hundi-ed and sixty- 
 five days after his departure from Yambuya that he arrived at 
 Kavalli, near Lake Albert, with little more than one hundred men, 
 and necessity compelled him to erect Fort Bodo, at about ten days' 
 journey from the lake, in order to collect the Zanzibaris scattered 
 ahmg the march. If the Expedition had followed the route pro- 
 posed by Felkin, and approved by Junker, as more feasible, shorter, 
 and less perilous, it would have gained the lake in a shorter time, 
 and with the forces nearly intact. The return journey to Bagamyo 
 of the column under (Stanley effected by this itinerary pz'oves the 
 truth of this assertion. Neither has the reason of the desertions 
 greater value. He suffered far more from these on the Aruwimi 
 than Peters did on the eastern road across the country of the 
 Masai, with means quite as scanty and limited, in a rapidly com- 
 pleted journey that led to Lake Baringo, near the Nile, towards 
 Wadelai, and returning to Uganda by Karagua to the region of 
 Lake Victoria and thence to Zanzibar ; so that if Stanley had 
 abandoned the valley of the Aruwimi, and taken a northern direc- 
 tion in order to arrive at the valley of the Makua, he could — by 
 traversing the rich countries of the Bomokandi, Kibali, and Makraka 
 — have either descended into the valley of the Nile or reached the 
 source of the Kibali by an unexplored and most interesting route, 
 whence he could have pi'oceeded to Wadelai. 
 
 Towards sunset the steamer Klicdioe (April 29, 1888) arrived in 
 the Were roadstead. Stanley was encamped at a little distance, 
 near the village of chief Katonzi. Emin wished to go to him 
 without delay. We went down to tlie boat, and in less than an 
 hour reached the landing-place ; cries of joy, the discharges of 
 rifles, and shaking of hands accompanied us to the tent of the chief 
 of the Expedition, who, cap in hand, saluted us gravely. Our 
 visit was of brief duration, but cordial, and was concluded by the 
 reciprocal drinking of healths in brimming glasses of sparkling 
 champagne. 
 
 The following morning Stanley joined us with his Zanzibaris, 
 and we formed a camp at Nsabe, in the territory of chief Mpigwa. 
 
 Emin did his best to supply shoes, linen, tobacco, salt, honey, 
 grain, and sesame to the Expedition, equipped and sent out from 
 Europe to his aid. 
 
 The rescuers were rescued, but a painful and uncertain shadow- 
 veiled the joy that ought to have been complete and general ; and 
 yet Stanley, confiding in his fortune and lucky star, put the ques- 
 tion about the return of those who intended to comply with the 
 Viceroy's decree and that of his Minister, Nubar Pasha. Emin 
 subjected his decision to that of the majority of his people, and I, 
 faithful to my promise of assisting him, though desirous of putting 
 an end to our sufferings, declared myself ready to share his future 
 
 y
 
 33S TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 prospects, nor would it have been wise to have arrived at any other 
 decision. A decided separation from Emin would have excited 
 discontent, for already the people who had come with us looked 
 with wonder, eyes wide open and dubious hearts, at this remnant 
 of the Expedition, of which the Governor had sung so many 
 praises, and which he had taught them to consider a fount of com- 
 fort. Of what value were thirty cases of Remington cartridges ? 
 They had not in the least changed the situation of the Equatorial 
 Province. 
 
 Emin profoundly felt the sad impression that must be produced 
 by the description of the miseries suffered, and the difficulties of 
 the road, that the soldiers and the Zanzibaris would not have failed 
 to give to our people ; and repeatedly addressed entreaties to 
 Stanley, begging him to show himself to the inhabitants, and visit 
 the nearest stations within reach of the steamer. 
 
 The employes and soldiers had received no pay for five years ; 
 they were partly the refuse of the Egyptian army, but they had 
 resisted the rebellion, had fought for their Sovereign, and there 
 had been few desertions amongst them. Yet Stanley remained 
 firm in his refusal, alleging the shortness of the time, though he 
 afterwards stayed at Nsabe for about a month. 
 
 Emin bowed his head with resignation, trusting to chance, not 
 having sufficient energy to force events. I told him many times to 
 unreservedly make known the situation of the Province — the dis- 
 sensions that troubled it — the reality so opposed to the delusions 
 that passed through the minds and inouths of every one in Europe 
 and Egypt. He promised me that he would do so, but I have 
 reasons to believe that he only threw out vague hints at times on 
 these vital matters. To confess his o^vn powerlessness, and censure 
 his own errors, was repugnant to his proud mind. 
 
 His nomination to the rank of Pasha, and the admiration and 
 interest shown by the entire world in his favour, ought to have 
 readily silenced every scandal, and given new strength to his 
 prestige. 
 
 The chief of the Relief Expedition, complying with the Governor's 
 express desires, at once convened the soldiers and employes to con- 
 sult them as to their intentions. Those who wished to go to Egypt 
 should assemble at Nsabe and at Xyamsanzi, to await his return 
 from Yambuya with the main body of the Expedition, which had 
 been left there with the provisions. 
 
 He recognised the certain and inevitable perils of the route to 
 the Aruwimi, and proposed the one through Karagua and Usukuma 
 (which was rich in supplies) to Zanzibar, thus overcoming his former 
 fears caused by the great fierceness of the numerous warriors of 
 Nkole. 
 
 To facilitate preparations for the exodus and compensate Emin, 
 to a certain extent, for his refusal to show himself in the Province,
 
 STANLE TS FR OPOSALS. 339 
 
 Stanley readily complied with the request made to him by the 
 Governor, that an officer of the Expedition should remain with the 
 latter. 
 
 Jephson was selected for this far from easy mission, to fulfil 
 which he was furnished with a letter from the head of the 
 Expedition (Stanley), in which the intentions of the Viceroy and 
 his Ministers were clearly set forth and the position of those who 
 preferred to remain was frankly explained. The letter concluded : 
 
 " I send you one of my officers, Mr. Jephson, and give him my sword, 
 to read this message to you from me. I go back to collect my people 
 and goods, and bring them on to the Nyanza, and after a few months I 
 shall come back hei-e to hear what you have to say. If you say, ' Let 
 us go to Egypt,' T will then show you a safe road. If you say, ' We 
 shall not leave this country,' then I will bid you farewell and return to 
 Egypt with my own people." 
 
 The future of Emin seemed especially to preoccupy Stanley. 
 
 Deferring his decision about his return to Egypt and Europe to 
 the time when he should have concentrated the foi'ces of the 
 Expedition, scattered along the Aruwimi, Stanley suddenly threw 
 a new bait to the excited hopes of the Governor ; and one day, 
 endeavouring to persuade Emin of the impossibility of maintaining 
 himself in the Province against the invasion of Mahdism, he gave 
 him a brilliant description of his project of conducting him and his 
 people to the north-east corner of Lake Victoria, that they might 
 dwell there, and by a series of successive stations, established on 
 the road to Mombasa, render himself useful to the British East 
 African Company, which would not hesitate to give fixed employ- 
 ment to him and his followers. 
 
 This project, so flattering in appearance, made Emin forget the 
 material and moral difficulties that opposed the realisation of it, 
 and rendered Stanley still more fervent in his efforts to strengthen 
 the British undertaking, and gain for it (if possible) the military 
 force that served under Emin. And Emin, forgetful of the most 
 elementary prudence, boasted of this arrangement to his people, 
 thus engendering, later on, a mistrust in their minds and the fear 
 of being sold and torn away from their brothers in religion. When 
 with firm conviction he hinted at his strong symjjathy for the 
 British nation and with great satisfaction praised himself for such 
 faith, he believed that the solution of the difficult problem was near, 
 
 " Thus my scientific labours," he used to say, " have borne good 
 fruit. Who would have thought that a bird and a butterfly would 
 have proved so useful to me and my people ? " 
 
 Stanley finally offered to incorporate the Province of Equatoria 
 with the Congo State, if he were assured of reasonable conditions. 
 Naturally such a proposal was rather in compliance with instructions 
 he had received than from a conviction of the probability of its
 
 340 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 being feasible. The fate of the llelief Expedition was so eloquent 
 as to render any reply needless. 
 
 Emin did not hesitate, and, with due reserve for the rights of 
 the Egyptian Government and the duty that bound him to it, 
 manifested his full adhesion to the project of establishing himself 
 on the Victoria Lake, declaring that that might be effected, both 
 on account of the shortness of the journey and the undoubted 
 consent of the people. 'He was deceiving himself, and the delusion 
 that it shortly after proved shed bitterness in his heart. 
 
 The satisfaction with which Emin related these conversations 
 with Stanley caused me sad reflection, and I did not cease encourag- 
 ing my friend to seriously consider the political situation of the 
 Province and to recall the true position of it to his mind. 
 
 " Stanley's coming," I added, " augments your weakness instead 
 of increasing your authority. The matters discussed here at the 
 end of the lake, and beyond the Province, between you and Stanley, 
 without witnesses, will excite mistrust and lead to disorders. The 
 Expedition cannot return under eight months, everything being 
 favourable. The enterprise may still fail, and then what way of 
 escape will be left us ? " 
 
 On May 16, 1888, I took leave of Stanley, and returned to 
 Tunguru. 
 
 During the time that Stanley stayed at Nsabe, he gained some 
 insight perhaps into Equatorial affairs, and perceived that they were 
 not in the condition represented to him ; but he had not leisure 
 to enter into the matter, anxious as he was about the fate of the 
 principal body of the Expedition that he had left behind at 
 Yambuya. Great was the responsibility he had assumed in breaking 
 up the party. The need of procuring all the porters required for 
 transporting the surplus loads, and to bring back the famous 
 million's worth of ivory that was in the Province, which, as had 
 been discussed and agreed with the Egyptian Government in 
 London, was partly to be devoted to the defraying of the expenses 
 of the llelief, led Stanley to commit this error. Instead of sending 
 an exploring detachment to the lake under an expert and daring 
 officer, and remaining behind himself to direct the more important 
 work, thus securing the triumph of the undertaking, his inordinate 
 desire for doing everything himself, and his ardent wish not to let 
 a crumb of glory fall into the lap of others, impelled Stanley 
 (forgetful of the importance of the charge which had been en- 
 trusted to him and not to others) to give summary orders, placing 
 between himself and the principal column an enormous distance, 
 an impenetrable forest, silence, and doubt, for long consecutive 
 months. 
 
 He decided to return, and assisted by about a hundred porters, 
 supplied by Emin, left Nsabe, May 2 k 
 
 The region of the lake was acquiring the greatest importance in
 
 STANLE V LEA VES NSABE. 341 
 
 the course of events in Equatoria ; it was to be the road and base 
 for the march to Zanzibar. 
 
 The security of the passage and the attitude of the natives were 
 two indispensable conditions for the success of our affairs ; but the 
 King of Unyoro was always our bitterest enemy, and he used every 
 effort to keep alive and awaken the animosity of the populations 
 against the soldiers of the Government. 
 
 In the early part of May, Babedongo concentrated troops in 
 Muenghe for the purpose of watching over the movements in the 
 camp at Nsabe ; one of his spies was arrested in the neighbour- 
 hood, and later on put to death at Msua. Boats laden with salt, 
 and conducted by the hanassura of Wauyoro, were confiscated on 
 the shores of Melindwa ; the chiefs Sunga, Boki, Reja, and Okuza 
 were imprisoned, accused of having meditated a massacre of the 
 soldiers and a general rising. 
 
 Emin, after having caused Juguro, the chief of the mountain, to 
 be put to death at Msua, for being suspected of plotting (in con- 
 junction with Melindwa) against the garrison, saw the agitation 
 spread, and, perceiving the insufficiency of partial repression, 
 ordered the burning of Kibiro, in order to destroy the great market 
 which was the pride and wealth of the country of Unyoro. 
 
 It was the night of May 30, 1888 — the peaceful inhabitants of 
 the village were placidly reposing, ignorant of the dreadful misfor- 
 tune about to fall on them. The two steamers, knowing nothing, 
 cast anchor in the roadstead, while the soldiers and armed Lur re- 
 mained cautious and silent ; a horrible stillness as of death reigned 
 all round ; the men were seen in groups at the corners of the 
 scattered habitations. At a given signal, the drums beat, the 
 trumpets sounded, and flames sprang forth, filling the barren reces- 
 ses and invading the huts ; flight was impossible ; everywhere were 
 heard cries, imprecations, and the despairing anguish of the dying ; 
 the miserable fugitives were shot down ; the country became a scene 
 of extermination ; women, children, and infants were seized, stabbed, 
 and cast into the flames by the frenzied assailants. In a short time 
 nothing remained of Kibiro but smoking ashes. Their horrible 
 thirst for blood being appeased, the thie\ash and drunken gang 
 began to sack the place ; goats, salt, and all that had been spared 
 by the flames were stolen and carried oS", and the salt-pits devas- 
 tated. 
 
 The soldiers, with festive shouts and military arrogance, trium- 
 phantly returned to AIsuo, drunk with the horrible butchery of 
 women and childi-en. 
 
 " I do not thank you," said Emin to the commander of this 
 expedition, " for the zeal you have displayed and the cruelty you 
 have committed." 
 
 The glad news reached me at the time that Kagoro, chief of 
 Kibiro, had escaped the massacre. Fortune so willed it, tbat a few
 
 342 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 days before the event he had been called to the king on some busi- 
 ness. Pleasant memories and gratitude bound me to him, for 
 succour that he had given me in the time of persecution ; I was 
 delighted to be spared the grief of seeing him involved in the 
 massacre. 
 
 Nor did the avenging hand rest here ; all the villages on the 
 coast of ]\Iagungo were assailed and robbed ; the territory of 
 Amara and the residence of Ntiabo, the king's wife, were sacked 
 and burnt. 
 
 In this manner it was believed that they would conquer the 
 pride and curb the arrogance of King Chua ; it caused him to 
 suspend open violence for a while, but he redoubled his intrigues. 
 
 He was aware of the disorders that impaired the Equatorial 
 Government, and smiled, well pleased at our weakness ; being 
 certain of the support of the natives, he prepared for the time when 
 he would be able to realise his ambitious projects. 
 
 The dissensions which had desolated the Province for some time 
 had little by little alienated the minds of the greater number from 
 loyalty to the superior authority. Some repressions, perhaps not 
 always just and proportionate, had produced a cvirrent of wrath, 
 ready to break into open rebellion upon the first opportunity that 
 presented itself. They conspired in secret, solely on account of 
 the isolation that surrounded the little State ; fear rendered the 
 malcontents watchful and prudent, and a veil of submissive fidelity 
 concealed the actions of the discontented soldiers of the 1st 
 battalion, who were still decided not to recede from their pre- 
 tensions. 
 
 It was the calm that precedes the gathering together of the 
 tempest clouds. 
 
 The appearance of Stanley, instead of hushing complaints and 
 concentrating men's minds on the thought of approaching relief, 
 still further inflamed their latent passions. The unjust sufferings, 
 the uncurbed tyranny, the favours shown to a few dishonest 
 persons, the desire for revenge, were the themes of agitated con- 
 versation at the stations, on receiving news of the arrival of the 
 Stanley Expedition. Later on, the refusal of Stanley to enter the 
 Province, and ignorance of that which had been arranged at Nsabe, 
 augmented the numbers of the discontented, and opened the way 
 to the strangest conclusions. The supposition that treaties were 
 entered into for the cession of the Province to strangers, very soon 
 appeared a certainty not to be doubted. 
 
 During Stanley's stay at Nsabe, Captain Abdul- Waab Effendi, 
 and the clerk Ahmed Mahmoud, the first formerly adjutant and 
 the last secretary to the Governor, presented themselves to the 
 leader of the Expedition, lodging an accusation against Emin, and 
 drawing a very unflattering picture of what had transjDired in the 
 Province in the last few years.
 
 DISCONTENT SPREADS. 343 
 
 8tanley listened to their complaints and counselled them to wait 
 patiently for his return, begging them also to persuade their com- 
 rades to concord and obedience, and to turn their attention to cai'e- 
 fully preparing foi: the departure' to Egypt. He, prudently and 
 with much sense, thought it would not be wise to speak to the 
 Governor about the denunciation he had received, lest it should 
 cause fresh complications, and interfere with military discipline. 
 
 Hardly was Stanley gone, when Emin heard of this circumstance, 
 and was so full of anger and indignation that he could not pass 
 over the matter ; wounded to the quick by the confidences made to 
 the leader of the Expedition, self-love moved him to an infraction of 
 military discipline. 
 
 Emin arrived at Tunguru, June 3, 1 888, with a gloomy counten- 
 ance and heavy heart ; he had been informed of the discontent 
 that was spreading amongst the soldiers and employes, and sup- 
 ported by the wicked counsels and unwise deeds of Major Hawashi 
 Effendi, and he consented to a secret inquiry intended to strike at 
 the mutineers and malcontents. It was a list of proscription, in 
 which the major, by yielding to private hatred, sealed his evil 
 labour of so many years. 
 
 I had attentively followed the spirit of general discontent that 
 afflicted the Pi^ovince for some time, and had se\^eral times 
 persuaded the Governor to adopt a more conciliatory policy, that 
 might avail to maintain the crumbling edifice in tolerable condition 
 till the time of our departure. Rigorous measures that in former 
 times would have been of use in consolidating authority, had then 
 no probability of success, in consequence of the general alienation 
 of the people's minds. This course was naturally repugnant to 
 Emin, but force of circumstances exacted it, because he had himself 
 brought on the situation by his own actions ; but once more, 
 instead of accepting my prudent counsel, given in a cordial spirit 
 of friendship, he gave himself up to a policy of repression and 
 rigour, supported by the heated encouragement of Jephsou, who, 
 relying on the principle — not denied by any one — that energy 
 produces salutary effects, even advised that the two culprits who 
 had complained to Stanley against their own Governor, should 
 suffer the extreme penalty. He did not know the political con- 
 dition of the Province, nor did present circumstances lead him to 
 modify the ideal that had been engraved on his heart and mind in 
 England, where he had heard the praises of the prisoners in 
 Equatoria sung. However, a lighter sentence was passed : the 
 captain was reduced to the rank of second lieutenant, the secretary 
 was put in irons, several of the other officers were reduced in rank 
 and the Vice-Governor, Osman Latif , was deprived of his office. 
 
 On the morning of June 6 the steamer Nyanza was ready to 
 start, and only waited the consignment of the mail ; I resolved to 
 try once more to turn Emin from his impolitic deliberations and
 
 344 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 excessive severity ; I went and spoke to liira, but by way of reply 
 he accused me of trying to rule him and usuqD his privileges ; I 
 bowed, saluting him, and returned to my house. 
 
 Mr. Jephson, seeing how I acted after the last incident, and that 
 I did not frequent Emin's house as was my wont, came to see me, 
 and reproaching me gently for my want of respect to the head of 
 the Government, begged me to resume our old relations, as, in his 
 opinion, Emin had been quite right in exercising his full authority. 
 I smiled, understanding that he had interpreted my mode of 
 acting as a defence of punished individuals, and endeavoured to 
 make him comprehend that the affairs of the country and public 
 tranquillity were getting worse and worse, and that Emin by his 
 actions was hastening its ruin ; on his part, he shook his head with 
 an incredulous air, and, smiling, show^ed his surprise at hearing me 
 utter words so little in Emin's favour, whom all Europe considered 
 a scientist, administrator, and soldier. 
 
 "One day you will do me justice, Mr. Jephson," I said; "I am 
 the friend of Emin, and it is precisely on account of this friendship 
 that I have never concealed the truth from him. And now, even 
 to you who have a dijEficult and delicate mission to fulfil, I think it 
 right to make known my opinion on the affairs of the Province." 
 I did not, however, allow myself to be persuaded to give in to Emin, 
 and kept from his presence. 
 
 On June 23, Jephson, accompanied by the Governor, presented 
 himself to the assembled troops of the Presidency of Tunguru, to 
 question them as to their intentions with regard to Stanley's 
 proposal, presented in the name of the Viceroy of Egypt. 
 
 The voting did not result in any explicit declaration, but was 
 ambiguous, covered with a thousand protests of servile hypocrisy; 
 " faithful to the Pasha, we will do exactly what he may decide to 
 do," was the refrain repeated from line to line and man to man. 
 
 The officers and employes, interrogated by Jephson apart in his 
 own house, expressed still more emphatically their devotion and 
 respect, and confirmed and repeated to satiety their declarations of 
 esteem for their Governor. 
 
 But when discussing the situation amongst themselves these 
 were the subjects which inflamed their minds: The road was 
 diflScult — full of dangers for children — without means of subsist- 
 ence; there was the danger of being sold to the English — the 
 Pasha was so intimate and friendly with them ; and not only in 
 Tunguru station were these ideas commented upon, but they 
 rapidly spread everywhere. Rigorous measures had roused people's 
 minds, everything was looked upon with suspicion and judged with 
 despair and anger ; but Emin and Jephson, ignorant of the 
 hurricane that was gathering, decided to proceed in the work of 
 scrutiny, and their departure from "VVadelai was fixed for the 26th. 
 Struck by their careless serenity, I charged A^ita Hassan, in my
 
 EXCUSES OF THE TROOPS. 345 
 
 name, to advise Emin to suspend all discussions concerning our 
 departure, for the present, and to say that I wished him to wait a 
 little, so that the public mind might be relieved from its present 
 agitation and be brought to look at matters in their proper light ; 
 adding that if Jephson persisted in continuing the work of inquiry 
 at the stations, Emin should allow him to do it, but that he ought 
 not to move from Wadelai ; I only feared for him — there was no 
 danger for Jephson : a guest would certainly be treated with 
 respect.
 
 ( 346 ) 
 
 CHAPTER XXVIII. 
 
 EMIN'S ARREST. 
 
 An old slave of the Baggara — Beginning of the rebellion — A despot and a 
 drunkard — Captain Fatelmula — The Pasha at Dufile — Opposition of the 
 soldiers of Kirri — Insult to the Governor — The station of Muggi and Abdallah 
 Menze — Threatening attitude of the soldiers at Lahore — Return to Dufile — 
 Prisoners of the rebels — Ahmed Dinkani — Resignation of Emin — I hold the 
 knife by the handle — I receive the sad news — I resolve to go to Emin — Con- 
 duct of the rebels at Tunguru — The news of Stanley's return and its subse- 
 quent contradiction — At Wadelai^Agreement amongst the Egyptians — My 
 arrival at Dufile — Permission to remain with Emin — Interview with Emin and 
 Vita Hassan — A sitting of the revolutionary assembly — Surprise prepared by 
 the factions — Dismissal of Emin Pasha — I advise Emin to sign his name— The 
 new Governor — Violence against Major Hawashi — Fear of Stanley's return — 
 My sympathy for Emin — Proposed transportation of the prisoners — I oppose 
 the insane proposal — " I'll have him put in chains " — Search of the Governor's 
 house and that of the doctor- — Little Ferida — The commander of Msua retires 
 to the mountains — The Mahdists in Rejaf waters — Horrible massacre — The 
 three dervishes and Omar Saleh's letter — Emin's advice — They want war — 
 Imprisonment maintained — Selim Matera and Solyman persuaded by me — 
 Defeat of the troops — Emin and Hassan are enabled to settle at Wadelai — 
 Departure from Dufile. 
 
 No sooner had Emin left Tunguru than the commander of the 
 garrison, a certain Solyman Aga, a Nubian (formerly a Baggara 
 slave), a man of narrow mind, but quick in action, openly threw off 
 the mask, and, having called together the officers and officials of 
 that station, preached resistance to the Christians, uttering the 
 grossest insults against them. 
 
 In his fits of savagery and drunkenness he did not forget me. 
 His injunction to me to shut myself up in my house was accom- 
 panied by these arrogant and cowardly words : " If he will not 
 obey, I will have him thrashed," which he uttered in presence of 
 his timid Ibllowers. Astonished, I endured this insolence without 
 retorting, but next day I went to his quarters with a letter for the 
 Pasha, requesting that it should be despatched without delay. 
 Perhaps he was astonished at my indifference, and probably 
 repented of his disgraceful conduct, but anyhow, a few days after, 
 he excused himself through one of his confidants. Nor did he 
 confine himself to advising his soldiers and subordinates, but 
 endeavoured to extend the fire of rebellion. He sent messengers 
 to Fatelmula Aga, one of his compatriots and a captain of the 
 Fatiko garrison, asking him to become his ally for the sake of their 
 common safety, to prevent, by his co-operation, the evils which the
 
 EMIN DECEIVED BY THE REBELS. 347 
 
 Pasha was about to let loose on the Province, and, lastly, to assume 
 a discretional power over the northern stations,' while he intended 
 to keep under those of Tunguru, Msua, and Wadelai. The seditious 
 appeal was responded to (secretly at first) by disaffected and eager 
 men ; but the incessant and most cunning organisation of the con- 
 spiracy could be inferred from the frequent journeys of messengers, 
 and from Aga's unusual activity with his officers and employes. 
 He acted as absolute master ; and woe to him who attempted to 
 oppose his uncurbed will. Reason, justice, civility, and freedom 
 were trodden under foot. The soldiers themselves were indignant 
 on account of the unjust and inhuman acts perpetrated, and the 
 Donagla were even in fear of their lives. The station became dull 
 and lonely ; only the colossal figure of the despot could be seen at 
 the door of the military office, often shaking with excessive rage, 
 which became ferocious when it was excited by abundant libations. 
 
 During the night a loud beating of drums, sounds of fifes and 
 gunshots, were signs of the orgies which the commander and his 
 worthy friends enjoyed. The conspiracy, arranged by Soudanese 
 roughness, assisted by Egyptian malice, soon attained its aim. 
 Low passions as well as just resentment allied with each other on 
 account of the conditions which weighed so painfully on every 
 mind ; and this alliance led to victory. The whole body of officers 
 and officials was acted upon as if a magic wand had been brought 
 into play, and the commander, Fatelmula Aga, was clever enough 
 to succeed in assuming the part of main exponent of the planned 
 revolt. 
 
 Emin and Jephson ignored the machinations which were in 
 course of organisation, and were deaf to the advice already given 
 by me that they should use moderation and political prudence. 
 They reckoned the homage proffered by a deputation of the 1st 
 battalion, sent from Dufile for the purpose, as a triumph ; and, 
 having been cheered and comforted by the welcome reception 
 arranged by Major Hawashi, they decided to proceed at once 
 towards the stations of the north and to initiate there the consulta- 
 tions about the evacuation of the Province. 
 
 The soldiers at Kirri unanimously answered the question put to 
 them ; they all approved of the proposal of departing for Egypt ; 
 thus giving an example of respectful obedience, perhaps without 
 depth of conviction ; but at any rate it was necessary to act pru- 
 dently and moderately, that is to say, the exodus should have been 
 carried out with discipline and with a sense of fitness in regard to 
 the object in view. Unfortunately, precipitation and the hobby 
 of acting authoritatively everywhere, even in this case, in which 
 the Khedive had granted freedom of choice to every one, caused 
 the good intentions exhibited at first, to be followed by evil results. 
 Emin ordered the ammunition to be sent to the Dufile storehouse, 
 but the soldiers opposed it to a man ; mistrust seized their minds,
 
 348 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 they found that they were no longer free to act as they would, but 
 coni])elled to submit imniediatel}', under the penalty, if they did not 
 obey, of being abandoned, with their families, to the mercy of the 
 natives and external enemies. 
 
 Emin ought to have been aware of the irritable and suspicious 
 temper of Negro soldiers. His yielding to them was doubly fatal, 
 for he was powerless to enforce his personal authority, and was 
 obliged to endure insults, to the detriment of his prestige. Stanley's 
 letter and the sword displayed by Jephson were considered as con- 
 trivances to uphold falsehood. 
 
 " Treason is manifest, but to defeat it is not difficult if we are 
 united." Such were the words uttered in all the garrisons, and 
 the plots which had been kept secret by the few immediately 
 became the will of the majority. Nor could anything better be 
 expected from the soldiers of the Kejaf station, for the danger of 
 Emin being arrested and imprisoned at Gondokoro was now very 
 much greater than in December 1887. The deputation of officers 
 who had come forward in order to calm the public mind, kept 
 silent for several days, and such silence was considered as a sign 
 of hostility. Emin and Jephson agreed to retire to Muggi. 
 
 There another attempt was made, through the brave captain 
 Abdallah Menze, who, they hoped, would be able to increase the 
 public feeling of confidence in the Government ; and that by his 
 example public excitement would subside and calm be restored in 
 the minds of the soldiers. These, out of respect for their com- 
 mander, remained faithful to discipline, consented to the proposal 
 of abandoning the country in order to return to Egypt, and offered 
 no resistance to the transport of nineteen boxes of ammunition 
 from their magazine to that of Dufile. 
 
 No message was received. The officers of Rejaf and Bedden 
 remained stubbornly silent, whilst the soldiers of Kirri persisted in 
 their determination. No news came as to the course of arrange- 
 ments in the southern stations; only a few messengers from Lahore 
 succeeded in eluding the vigilance of the guards. After fourteen 
 days of miserable uncertainty, the Governor resigned himself to 
 the idea of returning. 
 
 On August 13, 1888, the troops of Lahore were arrayed in the 
 village square. Jephson, accompanied by Emin and several officers, 
 read Stanley's proclamation, which was translated into Arabic by 
 the Governor himself, and he requested the soldiers to declare their 
 opinion on the matter. An unusual whispering, an ill-disguised 
 restlessness, agitated the ranks, but no one dared to utter a word. 
 Then at last a soldier, with a provoking and resolute countenance, 
 gun in hand, made his way through the ranks, and, addressing the 
 Governor, declared that they were willing to depart, but that the 
 date should not be fixed till after the harvest. Jephson replied 
 through the Pasha, peremj^torily requesting them to let him know
 
 OPEN MUTINY. 
 
 349 
 
 tlieir intentions the next morning. Then the soldier, assuming an 
 arrogant tone, said that was not the way to treat the Government 
 troops ; that the order must be false, since the Viceroy would have 
 commanded and not begged them to do so ; he would have led 
 them to safety, and not abandoned them to their own will. Emin, 
 indignant at these audacious words, threw himself upon the soldier, 
 
 EMIN AXI> TIIK MUTIXliEKS. 
 
 took hold of him by the nape of the neck, and ordered the com- 
 mander to disarm and arrest him. 
 
 The scene occurred with the rapidity of lightning ; the soldiers 
 rose as one man and, breaking the ranks, formed a group, aiming 
 their loaded rifles at the Governor, who had dra\vn his sword in 
 order to reduce the rebellious private to obedience. The timely 
 intervention of some of the officers prevented a catastrophe. The 
 troops retired, taking possession of the magazine where the arms 
 were kept, and refused to perform their usual night duty at the 
 Governor's residence. 
 
 Next morning, Emin went to Khor Ayu, and there received
 
 3 so TEN YEARS IN EQ UA TORI A. 
 
 information from the major in command at Dufile, about the 
 dangers that were accumulating in the Province. Later on, he 
 received another communication, soliciting his return to avoid 
 serious disasters. 
 
 On August 19, Emin, Jephson, and Vita Hassan entered 
 Dulile by the northern gate. The streets of the place were de- 
 serted ; not one single person came to meet them, and a gloomy 
 silence prevailed everywhere. They entered the residence, but 
 their leaving it again was prevented by the sudden appearance 
 of a picket of soldiers, who placed themselves at the entrance, 
 us a guard. The Governor and the doctor were prisoners, but 
 Jephson was not included in the odious measure, being considered 
 a guest. 
 
 There had been no delay in organising an energetic mutiny : 
 the painfnl incidents at Kirri and Labore had united all minds 
 in a single purpose, and the irresolution shown by the Governor 
 in the protracted and useless halt at Muggi had facilitated the 
 spread of the insurrection. 
 
 Fatelmula Aga, assisted by Ahmed Dinkani, left his residence 
 at Fabo ; a few days previously he had occupied Dufile station, 
 arrested the major in command, and proclaimed himself the 
 saviour of the Province, which was going to ruin through the 
 bad administration and recent intrigues of its ruler. The ven- 
 ture found the minds of the people disposed to approve it ; and 
 a provisional Government was installed without opposition. 
 
 Emin, not uttering a word of protest or attempting to defend 
 his outraged dignity, bowed his head resignedly and accepted 
 imprisonment. Unhappy man ! He would not listen to me, and 
 when Hassan communicated my prayer to him (not to leave 
 Wadelai), he answered : "I have no cause to be afraid now ; I 
 hold the knife by the handle, and am accompanied by an Eug- 
 lishman " ; but the latter in that painful occurrence could only 
 show his friendly feelings by sharing the bitterness of the out- 
 rage inflicted on him. 
 
 At about 3 P.M. on September 9, the steamer Khedive entered 
 the bay of Tunguru. An unusual bustle enlivened the soldiers 
 of the garrison, who, having put on their dress uniforms, were 
 drawn up by the landing-place. A short time after, Jephson 
 came to my residence and sorrowfully related the sad events 
 with which he was associated. I should have reproached him, 
 although in friendly terms, for not having given due considera- 
 tion to my words as to the doubtful condition of the Province, but 
 a genuine pity overruled all my feelings, and I promised my full 
 support, encouraging him with hopes of a brighter future. 
 
 The news had greatly afflicted, but not disheartened me. I was 
 a sincere friend of Emin and Vita, and had always been frank in 
 my opinions and actions. I had several times disapproved of the
 
 EMIN MADE PRISONER. 351 
 
 mode of government adopted ; still, I felt bound to devote all my 
 energy, not only to the improvement of their sad condition, but 
 also to the reinstatement of its rightful owner, even by the very 
 men who had assailed it. 
 
 The work which I intended to do was facilitated by an order of 
 the provisional Government at Dulile, in which the commander of 
 Tunguru was directed to pay every attention to me and my 
 attendants ; moreover, I was invited to Dufile, if I wished to have 
 an interview with Emin, and to be present at the sittings of the 
 assembly which was to meet there. 
 
 On their arrival at Tunguru the newcomers took possession of 
 the Government storehouses, and minutely examined the doctor's 
 house, with an odious rigour, which I could scarcely restrain ; and 
 their excesses went so far as to cast suspicion upon Captain Soly- 
 man Aga, who was thus rewarded for having been one of the first 
 to strike the spark that kindled the conflagration. 
 
 The commission, composed of sis officers and employes, pre- 
 sided over by Ahmed Dinkani, explained to the assembled soldiers 
 the history of the insurrectional movement for the safety of the 
 Province and for the defence of the principles of justice, which 
 they considered ought to shine w^tli immaculate splendour in the 
 Viceroy's territories. 
 
 " The Mudir," added the Captain, " has outraged the Province 
 for five long years by acts of despotism, injustice, violence, and 
 extortion, and has favoured people according to his own caprice, to 
 the detriment of others who had better claims, and now, as a cul- 
 mination of the ignominy, he conspires to sell it to the British, 
 but the hour for reclaiming the rights of the Viceroy has arrived. 
 We have cast off the yoke and proclaimed a new Government 
 which will mean the realisation of order and justice for every bod v. '' 
 And the crowd applauded, but more for the change, which opened 
 the way to individual licence, than on account of sincere con- 
 viction. 
 
 On September 13, 1888, the commission went to Msua, and, 
 after some opposition from the conimander, abstracted thirty boxes 
 of Remington cartridges from the magazine, which Stanley had 
 deposited there, causing them to be taken to Dufile. A vao-ue 
 rumour was current at Dufile that the Stanley Expedition had 
 reached the southern regions of the Albert Lake, in consequence of 
 which Jephson had obtained permission to accompany the com- 
 mission entrusted with the organisation of the provincial garrison, 
 to Tunguru and Msua. But on reaching Tunguru I persuaded 
 Jephson not to go to Msua, because the news was absolutely with- 
 out foundation ; but I wished I had not said so, for, as soon as the 
 steamer had started, that clever young man was tormented by the 
 doubt of not having fulfilled his duty, and could not rest. I 
 suffered for his pangs, not, however, because I thought that the
 
 3 5 2 TEN YEARS IN EQUA TORI A . 
 
 assertion expressed by me might have been reconsidered, for I was 
 sure of wliat I had said, but from an easily conceivable sympathy ; 
 and when the steamer I'eturned I was extremely happy to hear 
 that the inaccuracy of the news was confirmed. 
 
 The commission, after having completed the inventory of the 
 Government storehouses and supplied the public service with a 
 fresh organisation and trusted men, departed for Wadelai. There 
 the employes were concentrated in great numbers, especially the 
 Egy]3tians, because the place was the seat of the Government, and 
 also because those who had abandoned their posts to avoid the 
 tyranny of the commanders of the distant stations sought refuge 
 under the protection of the chief of the Province. 
 
 We landed at Wadelai on the 18th, and a general council, con- 
 sisting of Egyptian ofiicers and employes, was appointed for the 
 same evening, with the object of confirming the success of the 
 insurrectional movement and of concocting a programme for pre- 
 sentation at the general assembly which was to meet at Dutile. 
 The Egyptians tried to take advantage of it, in order to secure, if 
 possible, a preponderating influence in the resolutions, and, turn- 
 ing the moderate suggestions of the Soudanese to their own profit 
 (being no longer in fear), they endeavoured with all their power to 
 extinguish every sentiment of moderation. At this council a list 
 of charges against the Governor was compiled. The men, who 
 were easily affected by personal animosity, displayed more than 
 usual excitement, and the worst characters, assuming a deceitful 
 appearance of loyalty, obtained the confidence of the majority and 
 the mandate to defend their violated rights. 
 
 After a two days' voyage, in company with an inebriated, dis- 
 orderly, and imprudently vociferating crowd, as jubilant as if they 
 were going to a banquet, Jephson and I joyfully welcomed the 
 arrival of our steamer at Dufile. My companion went to his 
 lodgings in the house where the Pasha was residing, and I, to the 
 great astonishment of the former, went to Fatelmula's house, who 
 was the provisional chief of the new Government. I knew later 
 on that Jephson could not refrain from pointing out where I went 
 to Emin, and that the latter was deeply wounded by my proceeding. 
 However, I was bound to do so. It was an indispensable step, in 
 order to begin work in favour of my friend. I did not act in this 
 manner because I had lost the sense of my own dignity, but 
 because calm reflection proved to me that it was the best means of 
 performing the friendly duty I had undertaken ; and if the course 
 of events had compelled me to give up European customs to such 
 an extent that my life might have been thought incomprehensible, 
 still I can certainly say that my courage never wavered, and my 
 mind was constantly bent on my purpose, and that I did not 
 care to indulge in vain pride, either in reason or out of reason, as 
 others did.
 
 EMIN DEPOSED FROM GOVERNORSHIP. 353 
 
 I easily obtained permission from Fatelmula to fix my abode at 
 the Governor's house, and to take part in the meetings of the 
 assembly called to decide on the destinies of the Province. 
 
 I was painfully atfected on presenting myself to Emin by his 
 stretching out his hand to me, and saying, " I wish I had listened 
 to your advice." 
 
 " Let us not speak of the past," said I, " but of the present. 
 • Have courage ; we will struggle. I have come here to do anything 
 in my power for your safety. Let us hope ; have confidence in me, 
 and you will see that we shall defeat our enemies." 
 
 I could say no more, for my mind was oppressed by anxious 
 thought. I wondered that Emin, the man of superior intelligence, 
 the scientist so much admired in Europe, should be a prisoner at 
 the mercy of an ignorant and frantic rabble. Nor did I salute and 
 encourage good Vita Hassan with less affection, who, as a friend 
 devoted to his chief, had fallen with him. 
 
 When the military party began agitating for a change in the 
 conduct of the afiairs of the Province, they did not intend extend- 
 ing it as far as overthrowing the Government. Its object was only 
 to remove all pernicious intluences, and supply the Governor with \ 
 council, which was to share his responsibility. But this did not suit 
 the majority of the Egyptian intriguers, who had concentrated 
 their forces in their meeting at Wadelai ; and, being also strong 
 from the superiority of their education, they promoted an adminis- 
 trative inquiry, as well as the impeachment of the Governor, the 
 doctor, and the major of the 2nd battalion. 
 
 The general assembly was opened September 24, 1888, with a 
 programme of this kind. The reasons which had suggested severe 
 measures against the Governor and the two ofiicers, his associates, 
 were explained, and the proposal of appointing a military com- 
 mission was accepted, in order to report on the best means to 
 secure respect for the law, individual rights, and personal safety. 
 But during the night a meeting was convened at the house of 
 Captain Ali Giabur, an audacious Soudanese, with an evil dispo- 
 sition, hostile to the feelings of moderation shown by Fatelmula, 
 the head of the provisional Government ; and it was resolved to act 
 by surprise, and wrest, by intimidation, a vote from the assembly 
 for a radical change in the constitution of the Government. 
 
 Next morning three notorious conpirators, Sabri and Taib (civil 
 employes), and Mustapha Ahmed (a military officer), aided by Ali 
 Giabur and his friends, read to the few members of the assembly 
 called in, the impeachment and consequent decree of dismissal of 
 Emin Pasha from the Governorship of the Province, as well as that 
 of the doctor, and of the suspension from his rank of the major, 
 which the meeting was requested to approve and confirm. There 
 were only a few curt and timid remarks. Some feeble opposition 
 was repressed by threats, and in a short time all the officers and 
 
 z
 
 3 54 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 clerks present at Dufile being successively called upon, the hateful 
 and arbitrary act was approved and sealed by them. The evil coun- 
 sellors proudly withdrew to their houses, with the conviction of 
 having saved the country and performed a memorable act of justice, 
 while the nervous, few in number, were perhaps sorry ; but they 
 felt their conscience delivered from the incubus of responsibility 
 weighing upon them, and concealed their cowardice with the excuse 
 of numerical impotence. 
 
 The decree of dismissal was communicated to the Governor by a 
 letter bearing the signature of the Government agent, Major Hamid, 
 who was unanimously raised to the rank of Lieutenant-Colonel by 
 the assembly, and at the same time the Governor was informed of 
 the order for his detention and that of the doctor and major. 
 
 I advised Emin to affix his signature to the document sent to him, 
 and to any other paper of the sort which might subsequently be 
 sent him. 
 
 Before my arrival at Dufile he had signed an order which restored 
 some officers and employes, previously dismissed by him, to their 
 posts ; another concerning some changes in the administration of 
 the Province; and finally a third, directing the commanders of 
 Waldelai, Tunguru, and Msua to send their superfluous ammunition 
 to the central magazine at Dufile. 
 
 There was not sufficient reason, therefore, for considering himself 
 deposed by the request made to him, since it was not a new one, 
 and I was astonished that Jephson should have felt pained on that 
 occasion, as if an indecorous precedent had been set. The violence 
 resorted to before was still in full sway when the last occurrence 
 happened, and to submit to it was only the repetition of a policy 
 previously practised. 
 
 The new Governor, old and weak in intellect, did not exert any 
 influence over the public administration, which was despotically 
 directed, according to the will of Captain Ali Giabur. This man 
 had brought seventy soldiers with him, picked from the scum of the 
 barracks ; these acted as masters at Dufile, and were always ready 
 to forcibly support the directions of their chief. There was soon a 
 display of their violence, for one fine morning Major Hawashi's 
 house was invaded by the soldiers, his goods seized, and himself 
 roughly handled and assaulted. He was hated in the Province for 
 his extortions, incessant injustice, and intolerable arrogance ; was 
 considered an evil adviser of the Government, and had become the 
 target of public contempt since he had fallen from power. His 
 cowardly tears excited laughter instead of compassion. He was 
 suspected of possessing a considerable amount of money ; and the 
 men in office spared neither threats nor molestations to discover it. 
 His domestics were imprisoned and flogged, and part of the money 
 was found, but he obstinately persisted in his denial, and preferred 
 suffering every abuse, notwithstanding my advice to yield to his
 
 CASATTS EFFORTS IN EM IN' S CAUSE. 355 
 
 persecutors in order to end a disgusting scene, which might have 
 resulted tragically. 
 
 The probability of Stanley's sudden return aroused the minds of 
 the rebels, and his mission in the name of the Government of Cairo 
 was acknowledged in a public sitting ; where it was resolved that 
 the question of the evacuation of the I'rovince and the return to 
 Egypt were to be treated directly with him ; but the most guilty 
 amongst the rebels were not entirely satisfied with the resolution, 
 thus publicly voted, and they entered into a secret understanding 
 with one another, in order to pi*event Stanley from being informed 
 of the last change of the Government, and to secure the ammunition 
 sent by the Viceroy. They, moreover, agreed to send the three 
 prisoners to the northern stations, to prevent their escape. 
 
 Soon after my arrival at Dufile, I took advantage of the invitation 
 sent to me, and did not fail to be present at all the public convoca- 
 tions, in which discussions were going on about the imprisoned 
 men and the further changes which it might be advisable to 
 introduce into the methods of administration ; and whenever I 
 found an opportunity, I always blamed the rebels' insane work and 
 advised them to take better counsels. There resolutions were 
 always put down in writing and were legalised by the seal of 
 the Government Commission. It was not difficult to obtain a 
 full knowledge of them from the clerks. Although the rebels 
 knew that 1 was Emin's friend and cordially interested in his 
 favour, they never forbade me interfering with their meetings, 
 because, they said, they were doing nothing wrong, and wished 
 their deeds to be made known to the Khedive, whom they con- 
 sidered their supreme judge. 
 
 I constantly frequented the houses of the officers and the most 
 influential employes, and was even sometimes accompanied by 
 Jephson. I discoursed with tliem, without exciting suspicion, 
 about the excessive severity which was being practised and also 
 the projected relegation of the prisoners; but with those who were 
 most prudent and cautious I went a step farther, and tried hard to 
 prove that the system with which the country was being ruled was 
 a false one. I even ventured to try and lay the foundation of a 
 counter-revolution, which had become indispensable on account of 
 the violent despotism of those who misruled ; and if my words had 
 not always an immediate effect, at least they softened the hearts of 
 many and made them reflect. 
 
 Very early on September 28, 1888, Major Selim Matera secretly 
 sent me the information that a council of the leading men was on 
 the point of meeting at Captain Fatelmula's house, with the object 
 of settling the draft of a decree for the relegation of Emin, Hassan, 
 and Hawashi, which on that day was to be submitted to the appro- 
 bation of the assembly. I sent one of my boys to Captain 
 Fatelmula, begging to be admitted to that council, and, as he did
 
 356 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 not object, I went to his house, and found about a dozen of Emin's 
 most determined enemies there. That stormy and sometimes 
 violent meeting lasted fi'om 7 a.m. to about 1 P.M. I explained 
 reasons, pointed out inevitable dangers, appealed to feelings of 
 humanity, and I silenced most of the conspirators, isolated the most 
 violent, and gained a victory by wresting the promise of suspending 
 every act of hostility from them. 
 
 But, being always afraid of finding myself suddenly confronted 
 by treachery, I went with Major Selim to see the Lieutenant- 
 Colonel, and persuaded him to promise his absolute opposition, and 
 that of his friends, to the hateful measure. In case of failure and 
 as a last resource, I sent my faithful boy, Oakil, to some sergeants 
 and soldiers, with whom a secret understanding had already been 
 arranged, and who were unsuspected by the rebels, in order to 
 request them to be ready to fight in defence of Emin, if they saw 
 him forcibly carried away from Dufile on the road to the north. 
 
 On my return home I found Emin very restless ; he was anxious 
 about me. Osman Latif had sent a message requesting him to 
 recommend moderation and prudence to me, because Captain All 
 Giabur, on my leaving Fatelmula's house, had exclaimed, " If that 
 man comes again and speaks to me in that manner I'll have him 
 put in chains." 
 
 " Do not be afraid. Pasha," said I, " I hope that our affairs will 
 take a favourable turn ; and with regard to Ali Giabur, believe me, 
 lie will carefully avoid declaring himself against me. I do not wish 
 you to listen to the excessive prudence of Osman Latif; he is a 
 cowardly man." 
 
 The commission entrusted with the examination of the accounts 
 of the public administration (presided over by the chief auditor, 
 who had been suspended by Emin) had finished its work and 
 arrived at the conclusion that a search of Emin and the doctor's 
 houses was advisable, in order to ascertain whether the missing 
 despatches, cloth, percussion caps, and ammunition were concealed 
 there. This heinous proposal was approved at once ; the news was 
 transmitted to the interested parties, and I obtained recognition as 
 the representative of both. 
 
 On October 8, half an hour after the arrival of the steamer at 
 Wadelai, the Pasha's house was surrounded by soldiers, and the 
 search began. The most private places were looked into ; boxes, 
 hampers, and receptacles of every description were overhauled, and 
 the things supposed to be objectionable were set aside ; coarse 
 language was freely uttered, jesting and questioning, but I en- 
 deavoured to remain serious and as conciliatory as possible. When 
 the operation was completed I received a copy of the report of the 
 search, signed by the delegates. 
 
 Emin's daughter, little Ferida, came to me several times that 
 day, weeping, both on account of the prolonged absence of her
 
 SEARCH OF EMIN'S HOUSES. 357 
 
 father and the harshness of the proceedings. I reassured the dear 
 child, who on my leaving made me promise that I would soon 
 retin-n with her parent, and fortunately after a short time I was 
 able to do so. 
 
 On the 14th the delegates proceeded to search the doctor's house 
 at Tunguru, and here everything was seized, furniture as well as 
 provisions, without any mercy ; their arrogance even extended to 
 flocyf>-ing the servants. The confiscated goods were deposited in the 
 storehouse, in order to be transferred to D utile. 
 
 The reluctance of the commander of Msua station to comply with 
 the order of the new Government, had compelh^d the latter to bring 
 the unwilling officer to obedience, and resort to violence if necessary. 
 With this object, the officers departed from Tunguru, and took the 
 road to Msua, where, to their great astonishment, they found that 
 the commander had gone to the mountains for corn. Being resolved 
 to wait for him they thought of turning time to account by pillaging 
 everything that was in the station — goats, salt, skins, oil, and 
 tobacco — but a peremptory order required their immediate return 
 to Dufile, where they arrived on October 30, 1888. 
 
 The news was worse than sad ; it was terrible. Three steamers 
 coming from Khartoum had suddenly appeared before Rejaf ; the 
 soldiers disembarked from them had assailed and taken the station, 
 after a short resistance, during which three officers and three 
 employes had fallen while heroically defending the entrance to the 
 fort. A horrible slaughter of men, women, and children, without 
 a single exception, had occurred ; the victors revelling in the blood 
 of their victims. 
 
 On their appearance the Arabs had sent a letter of intimation to 
 Emin by three dervishes, in which Omar Saleh, a Mahdist officer, 
 related the story of his master's deeds, and after promising a 
 general pardon as well as efficient protection, he requested a 
 surrender, declaring that he had been sent to take all the faithful 
 from the Province, which was a country of infidels, to unite them 
 with their brethren the Mohammedans. The rebels, terrified by 
 this letter, applied to Emin for advice, and he, declining every 
 responsibility, declared his opinion as to what was best to be done, 
 namely, that a victory in the northern stations seemed to him 
 difficult, whilst surrender meant certain death ; therefore, there 
 was no other alternative than to go south and make a strong 
 defence of Tunguru. But the news of the massacre of Rejaf roused 
 the minds of the officers, and the provisional Governor, together 
 with the soldiers of the 1st battalion, and reinforcements taken 
 from the stations, took the road to Muggi, wdth the intention of 
 concentrating a certain part of the forces at Makraka, and then of 
 attacking the Arabs entrenched at Rejaf. 
 
 Under these new and extremely critical circumstances, resistance 
 being considered impossible by the majority, it was resolved to send
 
 3 5 « TEN YEARS IN EQUA TORI A . 
 
 at once the non-combatants and the soldiers' families to the 
 southern stations, and simultaneously a written message was sent 
 to the Governor, exhorting him to abandon the idea of avenging 
 the victims of liejaf, and to order a concentration of troops at 
 Dufilc instead. The hope, of course, arose that, considering the 
 dangers which terrified the Province, all those who were threatened 
 by the Arab invasion would put aside their foolish rivalry, and 
 direct all their efforts to the same supreme object — that of the 
 common safety. But it was a delusion. Ali Giabur and the 
 officers of the 1st battalion, who were on the point of starting 
 northwards, to fight the jMahdists, maintained the arrest of Emin, 
 the doctor, and the major, entrusting the responsibility of their 
 custody to Captain Fatelmula, with general acquiescence, especially 
 that of the Egyptians, who were delighted to continue their 
 tyranny and licence. 
 
 The progress of the Mahdist invasion was quite certain, but the 
 success of our soldiers in opposing them, very doubtful. Dufile 
 was in near and inevitable danger. I resumed the negotiations 
 momentarily suspended, hoping to get, if not an unconditional 
 liberation, at least a mitigation of Emin's confinement and that of 
 his companions. To begin with, I requested their transfer to 
 Wadelai. After having sounded the officers separately, I availed 
 myself of the co-operation of the less perverse of them, and clearly 
 and openly declared that the relegation of the prisoners to a place 
 entirely safe from a sudden attack of the invaders was a homage 
 to the principle of humanity. 
 
 The major's removal to Wadelai was allowed, but as to the Pasha 
 and doctor, Captain Fatelmula told me that, though he was not 
 averse to the proposal, he would require the consent of the Eegent, 
 who was with the troops at Earri. The cheerfulness which formerly 
 made us happy in the evening, decreased from day to day, and we 
 often looked at one another in silence. Emin and Hassan had lost 
 all hope of liberation ; Jephson often deplored that he was not in 
 a favourable place for at once hearing of Stanley's arrival ; and, on 
 my part, though hopeful of achieving the so much longed for 
 object, I was afraid that mournful events might suddenly happen 
 amongst us, before I had attained it. 
 
 Turning the discontent which began to prevail amongst the 
 soldiers to advantage, I urged Selim Matera and Captain Solyman, 
 and was fortunate enough to persuade them, that, for humanity's 
 sake, and also for preserving their own responsibility, they ought 
 to allow the removal of Emin and the doctor to prevent a grief 
 (which after all was not desired) from saddening to a much greater 
 extent the already pitiful story of their captivity. It was agi-eed 
 to assemble a council of officers only, considering that the Province 
 was already in a state of Avar. At dusk, on November 15, 1888, we 
 received melancholy news from the north : the troops under the
 
 EMIN RELEASED. 359 
 
 Lieutenant- Colonel had been defeated by the Mahdists in the 
 neighbourhood of Rejaf; the soldiers had tied in all directions; the 
 commander, a major, three captains, and a clerk had fallen in the 
 fight. 
 
 The news rapidly spread amongst the soldiers ; the imminence 
 of danger, and lack of discipline of the troops, made every one 
 shudder. 
 
 Next morning Major Selim Matera assumed the supreme com- 
 mand without opposition, and his first act was to keep the promise 
 he had already given. Having called together the officers, he pro- 
 posed that the J^asha, together with the doctor, should be sent to 
 Wadelai, which was approved, the news being communicated to the 
 civil functionaries jiro forma. 
 
 At noon a commission of officers announced their approval of 
 the measures to Emin Pasha, and the guard at the entrance of the 
 house v/as removed. On the morning of the next day, that is, 
 November 17, Emin, with military honours and a salvo of artillery, 
 boarded the steamer which was to convey us to Wadelai.
 
 ( 3^o ) 
 
 CHAPTER XXIX. 
 
 CEOCODILE HUNTING. 
 
 Bows and kissing of the hand — The crocodile hunter — The Bari of Bedden — The 
 Dinka's whistling — The clerk Taib — A difficult position must not be attacked 
 openly — Proposed abandonment of Wadelai — Yussuf Fahmi's mother-in-law — 
 At Fagongo — Arrival of the steamer Khedive — Mahdists' discomliture at Dufile 
 —Injunctions to the Pasha to return to Wadelai — Emin's refusal — Major Selim 
 Matera's letter — ]\Iahdist dollars — Evacuation of Dufile— Captain Solyman — 
 His death — Emin's fears — I do not agree with him — Lieutenant Saleh — Indig- 
 nant revolutionists — The two factions — Execution of chief Sunga — His corpse 
 on the shore — Kolikio and Katto — King Chua madly enraged — A slaughtered 
 child — A black bullock and a girl twelve years old — The Lur of the mountain 
 — Boki is dead — Funeral ceremonies — Proclamation of the successor — Raids 
 of the Unyoro — Emin an ornithologist- — Jephson a hunter — Emin will not leave 
 Tunguru — Stanley's return — His letter to Jephson — Emin left to himself — 
 Jephson and Emin write to the chief of the troops at "Wadelai- — Jephson's de- 
 parture — I advise Emin to take time — What an imprudence would cost us. 
 
 On the an-ival of tlie steamer at Wadelai the people rushed to the 
 landing, and showed their satisfaction by loud and prolonged 
 cheers. It was a triumph due to the victor. The authorities, 
 clothed in white, bowing before the Pasha, kissing his hand, and 
 mtirmuring words of thanks, joined the procession. Saluted by the 
 troops who lined the road, and by discharges of artillery, Emin, 
 more astonished than affected at such expressions of respect and 
 affection, went to his residence, where he was compelled to receive 
 the homage of officers and emploj^es. After the cheering ceased, 
 and while I was going up the hill to the station very slowly, owing 
 to a pain in one of my legs, which I had suffered from since the 
 last days of my stay in Dufile, I met the good Hassan, the super- 
 stitious Turk, the provider of amulets for protection from lions and 
 crocodiles. He began a long panegyric on the Pasha, with which 
 he loudly mixed vulgar insults to the Dufile agitators. 
 
 " Do you know, Hassan," I said, in order to interrupt his speech, 
 which was not agreeable to me, " that the crocodile which bit off 
 the leg of Mahmoud Tiki-Tiki, the clerk, has been captured and 
 killed?" 
 
 " I heard of it, and was very glad." 
 " It was caught by the courageous Bari of Bedden." 
 " Clever fellows, they did it by some secret which I do not know, 
 nevertheless I would undertake to do the same." 
 
 He then repeated to me an eudless category of impossible
 
 BARI HUNTERS. 361 
 
 sorceries, to which I listened in silence till we reached the top of 
 the hill, where I wished him good-bye. 
 
 " I am in a hurry," said I. " Good-bye, I am going to the Pasha's. 
 We shall have plenty of time to talk, as I shall stay some time at 
 Wadelai." 
 
 Mahmoud-Ahmed, nicknamed Tiki-Tiki on account of his short 
 stature, was an Egyptian, who acted as secretary to the commander 
 of the Kirri station. When the revolution began in the Province, 
 he went to Dufile on some official business, where, one morning 
 while he was bathing in the river, a crocodile assailed and dragged 
 him amongst the papyri and grass. 
 
 The Bari people hunt these voracious amphibia, and a few days 
 after this misfortune they were gratified by the capture of a very 
 large crocodile, inside of which was found the leg of its victim. 
 
 The island of Bedden is inhabited by a small tribe of Bari, whose 
 traditional prerogative is to hunt crocodiles. They feed exclusively 
 on the flesh and eggs of the animal, and by ancient custom enjoy 
 exemption from paying tribute, and from serving as soldiers to the 
 native chiefs or to the Government of the Province. They never 
 practise their art without the previous consent of the chief of the 
 locality. 
 
 The way in which they always succeed in their enterprise is sur- 
 prising. The hunters, properly posted on the banks of the river, 
 gesticulating and throwing grain on the water, pronounce, with a 
 loud voice, and in monotonous rhythm, the words appropriate to 
 the ceremony. The crocodile, endowed with very sharp sight, 
 leaves its hiding-place and gradually approaches the shore, at first 
 timidly showing its nose, then its head. Some of the hunters then 
 get cautiously into the river, and, approaching the creature at its 
 sides, rapidly throw a rope with a noose over its head and round 
 its neck. Immediately all precipitate themselves into the river, 
 and, without giving their prey time to resist, they drag him out of 
 the water and kill him on the shore. 
 
 I was told that ten crocodiles had been captured in this manner 
 at Dufile, and two at Wadelai. Whatever the impression that the 
 hunters make upon the reptile may be, it is certain that they 
 attract its attention, and prevent its perceiving the approaching 
 danger. 
 
 There are also among the Dinka individuals able to draw snakes 
 to their feet by peculiar whistles. 
 
 At the head of the disaffected people at Wadelai was an Arab 
 named Taib, of a bad but resolute character, who at that time held 
 the office of secretary to the commander of the station. He had 
 taken a leading part in the rebellion of the Province, and had 
 managed to make others accept his counsels, which were inspired 
 by a spirit of intolerance and fanaticism. 
 
 He was one of the most dangerous men at that period, and it was
 
 362 
 
 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 necessary to place him in a position in which he would not be able 
 to influence the course of affairs. Therefore, I had asked for and 
 obtained from the commander of the Province in Dufile an order 
 for his dismissal and his arrest, which was put in force at once, but 
 the scoundrel, at a banquet given by his friends and relatives, laid 
 his right hand on the Koran, and solemnly, as a man about to die, 
 uttered a curse devoting Emin, Hassan, Jephson, Marco the Greek 
 
 BAKI WOMEX. 
 
 merchant, and myself to death. So great an honour certainly 
 deserved more than the passing notice we bestowed on it. To be 
 away from Dufile meant freedom for us. AYadelai was the first 
 halt on the road to Kavalli on the lake ; it was no longer impossi- 
 ble to overtake the Relief Expedition. I used to say, " A situation 
 made difficult by restrained passions must not be attacked openly, 
 but one must rather study, with prudence, how to turn matters to 
 one's own advantage, and to be always on the look-out and know 
 how to seize propitious opportunities, which never fail to jDresent 
 themselves." 
 
 All questions, owing to the Oriental character, present them- 
 selves in a pompous form, and. divested of this false appearance, 
 spontaneously show their vulnerable side. Difficulties at first per- 
 ceived fade away, the cowardice of boasters is always defeated by 
 the patient steadfastness of a strong mind. A good intelligence 
 department, moderation towards adversaries, and actions that are
 
 WADELAI ABANDONED. 363 
 
 able to inspire and maintain the confidence of friends, will always 
 rule men and events, 
 
 Xo steamer arrived, and no news from Dufile. Thus we reached 
 the Ith of December 1888. 
 
 During that night Lieutenant Amat arrived from Bora, a Shooli 
 village on the right bank of the Nile, where he had been staying 
 several days on a journey for the requisition of corn. He related 
 how the chief of the tribe had urged him to go to Wadelai because 
 Fabo* had been assailed and taken by the Mahdi's hordes, who, 
 with the assistance of the natives, were even now surrounding 
 Dufile. 
 
 The funeral bell was tolling. ]\Iost probably Dufile had already 
 fallen into the hands of the enemy, and, availing himself of the 
 two steamers, he might appear before Wadelai much sooner than 
 we wished. The station was not sufficiently fortified for defence 
 against a serious attack : the surroundinsf land was not suited for 
 successful combats ; the storehouses were deficient in corn ; water 
 had to be brought from the river ; there was no choice : we had to 
 give up every idea of resistance and march to Tunguru, keeping 
 on the heights. 
 
 The proposal of retreat was confusedly voted, with the usual 
 unwilling and stupid protestations of sacrifice from those who (as 
 it always happens) would have been the first to set the example of 
 flight. 
 
 The iron boat was sunk after having been made unfit for use. 
 The ammunition of the mao^azine was distributed among the 
 soldiers, whilst the furniture and provisions that could not be 
 carried away were abandoned. Early in the morning of the next 
 day the exodus began, without order or discipline. About nine 
 o'clock a rumour spread through the long column of soldiers that 
 the boats bearing the Crovernment flag had arrived at Wadelai. 
 The column stopped, soldiers and many officials returned, while we 
 encamped near a torrent, aiad next morning left for Fagongo, not 
 far from the Nile. During the night some boys were sent to 
 search for the old, sick mother-in-law of a clerk named Yussuf 
 Fahmi, who had been forsaken by the servants accompanying her, 
 but only her corpse was found ; she had been stabbed with lances 
 by the Lur natives. 
 
 The steamer Klicdivc was signalled by some armed youths of the 
 vanguard, and shortly after she stopped in an inlet of the river 
 near the village. An officer landed, who told us that the Mahdists, 
 assisted by the natives of Muggi and Lahore, had been fighting for 
 three days against Dufile, and had entered the station from whence 
 they had formerly been driven away. 
 
 On the 28th of November 1888, they had been compelled to 
 
 * A new station at two days' journey from Dufile, where the garrison of Fatiko 
 (abandoned on account of the King of Unyoro's hostilities) was concentrated.
 
 364 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 take a hasty flight, leaving on the ground many dead and 
 wounded. The officer added that a detachment of soldiers had 
 pursued them, killing all who lingered behind. 
 
 Owing, however, to the almost complete exhaustion of ammuni- 
 tion, the abandonment of Dufilu and the mustering of the troops at 
 Wadelai was decided upon. 
 
 The officer then requested the Pasha to comply with the order, 
 of which he was the bearer, to return to Wadelai, where the re- 
 organisation of the Government of the Province would be discussed 
 at a general assembly. A long and animated discussion ensued, 
 at the conclusion of which the officer yielded to the firm resolution 
 of Emin to proceed to Tunguru, and consented to make for the 
 Lake. 
 
 The following letter from the commanding officer at Dufile to 
 Emin sums up the movements of the Mahdists and their operations 
 against Dufile : — 
 
 " To His Excellency Mohammed Emin Pasha, Governor- General 
 of the Equatorial Province. 
 
 " The garrisons of Muggi and Lahore were concentrated at this 
 station on the 18th of November, as well as a few soldiers of the 
 1st battalion ; in all, one hundred and twenty men. On the 
 morning of the 24th, I sent Lieutenant Bachit Aga Mohammed 
 to reconnoitre the locality occupied by the Mahdists, and at about 
 eleven o'clock a.m. I received a message from him informing me 
 that the enemy were encamped near the river Tin, at three hours 
 and a half journey from Dufile. In the evening when he returned 
 to the station he confirmed the news. 
 
 " During the night a letter from Omar Saleh, the commander of 
 the Mahdis troops, was delivered to me, in which he called on us 
 to surrender and lay down our arms. In the same letter he informed 
 us of the death of Hamed Aga Mohammed, commander of our 
 soldiers, of Captains Abd-el-Waab, Ali Aga, Salem Effendi Halaf, 
 and of Secretary Hassan Effendi Latif, in the fight near Rejaf, 
 He ended his letter thus : — 
 
 " ' If you do not surrender at once, I will come and make you." 
 
 " We did not think it advisable to answer this epistle, but com- 
 mitted it to the flames. 
 
 "The enemy appeared in the neighbourhood of this station on 
 the morning of the 25th iust., and at about four o'clock p.m., notified 
 his arrival by a letter, that was burnt by the soldiers of the outer 
 guard, in which he said that they would compel us to surrender. 
 
 " About nine o'clock on the morning of the 26tli, the Mahdists 
 opened fire on the station and continued until three o'clock p.m., 
 when they were driven away by a company of soldiers, who made a 
 sortie and inflicted on them a loss of twelve killed and several 
 wounded. Thank God, our trooj^s did not sustain any damage. 
 
 " Durinsr the nio-ht of the 27th, our enemies attacked the station
 
 MAHDIST ATTACK ON DUFILE. 365 
 
 with a brisk and intense fire, to which at about four o'clock a.m. 
 I replied. At daybreak, the assailants made a rush on the part 
 towards the gardens, and succeeded in penetrating into the station, 
 and attacking the steamers, killing Mohammed Ali El Nagiar, captain 
 of the Nyanza, the engineer Ali Ahmed, Mergian Derar the pilot, 
 and Faragialla Moru the stoker ; all these died on the KJicdive. 
 
 " On account of this serious assault, part of our soldiers were 
 detached from the tight towards the north side, and, under the 
 command of Captain Bachit Aga Bargut, faced the audacious 
 invaders. The tight lasted till eight a.m., when the enemy, dis- 
 comtited on all sides, slackened his fire and shortly afterwards 
 retreated. We counted 210 dead, but there were certainly many 
 more killed, besides the great number of wounded who were carried 
 away by their comrades. 
 
 " Eleven flags fell into our hands, among which was the chief's, 
 a silken one , we seized also a great number of Remington and 
 muzzle-loaders, a number of swords and lances, and one prisoner. 
 
 " The soldiers were rejoiced at their victory, which was celebrated 
 with military honours paid to the Viceregal flag. 
 
 " Thursday passed without any event, the enemies limiting their 
 action to demonstrations with a few shots. 
 
 " At seven o'clock p.m. of the same day, the soldiers arrived from 
 Fabo station ; an hour later, a Bari negro, previously captured by 
 the Mahdists, but who had succeeded in escaping, came to tell us 
 that, owing to their heavy losses, the enemies were retiring towards 
 Eejaf. 
 
 " At dawn on Friday morning, a message from Lieutenant Abd- 
 el-Bein Aga Shialai informed us of the flight of the Mahdists during 
 the night, news which was confirmed at nine o'clock by a soldier 
 who had remained at Lahore. 
 
 " I ordered the soldiers from Fabo to cross the river in the boat, 
 and go to the last camp occupied by the Mahdi's troops, where they 
 found many killed and wounded rebels, who are to be added to the 
 figures already given. Our soldiers returned here (after having 
 killed all the wounded ^Mahdists) with several cases of ammunition 
 left by the enemies in their camp. 
 
 " In the night of the oOth, a soldier, the servant of the late Major 
 Rehan Aga Ibrahim, arrived ; on being questioned, he told us that 
 he had come with the ex]3edition from Khartoum, and that all that 
 we had already been told was true. He added that the enemies' 
 force was lessened, and that they could not attempt a new assault. 
 Later on I sent some of the dragomen of the station as far as the 
 torrent Abd-el-Aziz, where they found some bags containing clothes, 
 and the bayonet of a Remington rifle. 
 
 " Fatelmula, a soldier belonging to the Muggi garrison, who had 
 been made prisoner by the Mahdists at the Rejaf fight, has returned 
 to the station.
 
 366 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 '^i^ U^^u^ ;.^^ l\f< ^-"jl. ^;>.f ^^» ^^ i.^ 
 
 L 
 
 FACSIMILE OP SELIJI MATERA 3 LETTER.
 
 LETTER FR OM D UFILE. 3 6 7 
 
 ^^^9^:^^]/^, ..U> orJ^)^ -^-^ L^^^i?> >\?^cl-v4i,\ 
 i - . ' . ■ \ ' ■^\ - * "• - 
 
 <iJ^^ IrX'^b ^.yt)l^' 'tyUf ^^// ^'-'^' v^ 
 
 : ^*/^«M>J^ o,«iu ->>^ /^j^ 'i,^^ U^-l^c/^h '::-^'-* 
 
 
 FACSIMILE OF SELIM MATERa's LETTER.
 
 368 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 " He relates tliat the Mahdi's troops were in great despair, and 
 hurried on their march. Their number did not exceed 150, of 
 which from time to time some fell on the road. In their retreat 
 they had set fire to the Government stations of Ayu, Lahore, and 
 Muggi. 
 
 " I send this letter, as is my duty, to inform your Excellency of 
 these events, and you will highly honour me by reading it. 
 
 " Major Selim Matera. 
 
 '' December 1, 1888. 
 
 "P.S. — The chief clerks and the Cadi are among the dead." 
 
 In the booty taken from the camp of the assailants and from the 
 dead, our Dufile soldiers found, besides a great quantity of garments, 
 leather bags in the shape of belts filled with silver coins. Amongst 
 many medjidie dollars, a few coins struck at Khartoum by the 
 Mahdi's Government were found. These, which were of the ordi- 
 nary size of a dollar, had on one side : " Struck at Omdurman, 
 III year ; " and on the other side : " Current coin, Mohammed 
 
 COINS OF THE MAIIDI. 
 
 Ahmed, the jNIahdi, year 1304."* Fear lends wings, therefore the 
 evacuation of Dufile was speedily effected ; quite an unusual thing 
 with the people of the Province. Families were first collected at 
 AVadelai, whence they were sent by degrees to Tunguru and Msua. 
 The removal was accomplished without grave inconvenience, but 
 it was deplorable that the granaries of the stations were without 
 wheat, which, under the circumstances, was more than ever needed. 
 
 On the 16th of December 1888, Captain Solyman was cax-ried to 
 Tunguru, seriously wounded in his right leg during the battle at 
 Dufile. 
 
 Eeport said that the bullet which wounded him did not come 
 from the enemy's rifles — his soldiers hated him for his overbearing 
 and arbitrary acts, and their justice is often cruel. 
 
 * Dumb f] um Omdurman, senet talata ; Macbul Mohammed Ahmed ei Mahdi, 
 Senet 1304.
 
 DEATH OF CAPTAIN SOLYMAN. 369 
 
 Emin, with his characteristic professional charity, attended him, 
 but science and care were of no avail ; the unlucky man died on the 
 night of the 29th, without the comfort oi seeing regret felt for him ; 
 and leaving nqxy few affectionate remembrances. 
 
 On the evening of his death, Emin, coming from the house, 
 whither I had accompanied him for his usual visit, told me that his 
 patient's end was imminent. 
 
 " Are you going to trouble your mind about that ? " said I. 
 
 "Yes, for two reasons; the first being that, as I have attended 
 him, evil-minded people will accuse me of having caused his death ; 
 the second reason is, that we are about to lose a man who might 
 have been useful to us in our circumstances, especially on Stanley's 
 arrival." 
 
 " I understand the first of your reasons. As to the loss we are 
 going to sustain, I am not of your opinion ; on the contrary, I 
 consider his misfortune will be to our advantage. I am inclined to 
 call his a providential death. This man, with his violent character 
 — with neither respect nor consideration for anybody — would be a 
 serious impediment on the day when Stanle^^'s arrival will compel 
 our prompt departure for Kavalli. Do not forget that he was one 
 of the first to rebel." 
 
 " But he repented, and made himself useful to us at Dufile." 
 
 "It is true. But he did so only because he was compelled by 
 Selim Matera and myself, when we made him understand the 
 isolation to which his friend Fatelmula would probably be reduced." 
 
 " Well, why should he now change his mind ? " 
 
 " For the sole reason that the perils which formerly alarmed the 
 factious have disappeared ; the war has ended with a victory, and 
 the Government of the rebels claims the merit of it. Besides, I 
 will say further, that he would never have been induced to return 
 to Egypt, aad therefore would not have allowed you to go, lest you 
 should ask the Viceroy to avenge the insults you have suffered." 
 
 " But in his place we shall have an officer selected from amongst 
 my worst enemies." 
 
 " Let us hope not ; and endeavour to prevent it. Selim Matera 
 will do us this favour also." 
 
 And in fact Lieutenant Saleh, whom everybody used to call " the 
 madman," from his eccentricity, but who was, after all, a good- 
 hearted man and a good soldier, full of respect for the Pasha, was 
 appointed commander of the Tunguru station. Amongst the 
 victims of this war was Captain Ahmed Assuti, who died at Wadelai 
 from his wounds, lamented for his military qualities. He was 
 struck by a bullet whilst heroically fighting for the defence of 
 Dufil^ ; he would not, however, withdraw from the battle-field 
 until a second wound in his head disabled him. 
 
 The insurrectional committee would not recognise the authority 
 of Major Selim Matera, who was therefore compelled to confine 
 
 2 A
 
 3 7 o TEN YEARS IN E QUA TORI A . 
 
 Major Hawasbi at Wadelai, instead of at Tunguru, as previously 
 arranged. 
 
 The dismissal of the Governor was approved and confirmed at a 
 meeting, when, to the reasons already brought forward at the 
 general assembly at Dufilc in September, there was added the 
 accusation of his opprobrious abandonment of Wadelai station, and 
 the destruction of those magazines. Consequently, a petition was 
 signed by nine officers and officials, in which the chief of the 
 Province was requested to order that Emin Pasha should be put in 
 chains, and brought before the Khedivial tribunals, and that the 
 doctor, Jephson, Marco, and myself should be hanged for having 
 incited the troops to abandon Wadelai, on purjjose to cause the 
 ruin of the soldiers who were at Dufile. They claimed also that 
 judgments should not be pronounced according to law, but should 
 be given by religious authority, and that successions and guardian- 
 ships should be ruled in accordance with the sacred principles of 
 the Koran. Major Selim opposed these wild pretensions, and 
 attempted to put a stop to the licentiousness and want of discipline 
 that daily assumed greater proportions. He suggested that, when 
 Dufile had been abandoned and burnt down, a general assembly at 
 Wadelai should discuss the definitive constitution of the country, 
 and the departure for Egypt of those willing to leave the Province. 
 But the germs of discord troubled all minds. The wisest among 
 them joined the Major, and if they did not desire that Emin should 
 return to power, they were at least firm in the opinion that the 
 country ought to be abandoned. This party was formed by the 
 majority of the officers, and by a good number of Egyptian and 
 Coptic clerks. 
 
 The opposition party was composed of a few Egyptian and 
 Soudanese officers, some clerks and many Donagla, with Captain 
 Fatelmula at their head. Those who were most compromised in 
 the rebellion were firm in their resolution not to leave the Province. 
 The insurrection of the month of August had hastened the ruin 
 of the Province, which had been for several years in a disorderly 
 and dangerous condition. Nothing was to be hoped from a wise 
 and moderate form of government ; everything depended on fortune 
 and its favours. 
 
 On July 16, 1888, the chief Sunga, who had been in prison for 
 a long time, accused of being in secret intelligence with the King 
 of Unyoro to the injury of the Government of the Province, was 
 put to death and his body thrown into the lake. Sunga's relatives 
 and the whole tribe of Lur were much grieved at being deprived 
 of the corpse of the "great rain-maker," to whom they decreed 
 solemn funeral honours. The sacrifices performed, and the occult 
 practices suggested by the superstition of the people on that 
 occasion, were crowned with success ; and it was believed to be a 
 miracle when, three days after death, and in consequence of a
 
 EMIN TO BE PUT IN CHAINS. 371 
 
 storm that made the lake rough, the waves deposited the corpse on 
 the shore, by the road tliat the water-carriers in attendance at his 
 former house usually followed. 
 
 Great and solemn were the honours paid him, and his 
 venerated name increased the hatred of the people for the 
 foreign domination, which weighed upon the country tyrannically, 
 and caused all hopes to turn to the powerful King of Unyoro. 
 About this time Kolikio and Katto, of the Boki people, were 
 denounced by their own chief, as secret agents of King Chua, He 
 did so to save himself from certain condemnation. They were 
 accused, brought to Wadelai, and there barbarously put to death. 
 The king was very angry at the offence thus given to him, and 
 meditated vengeance, incited by his mother, who venerated Sunga 
 as a friend of her late husband ; he was urged on also by the 
 Madundi, offended at Chua's betrayal by Boki, their fellow-country- 
 man. His never extinguished hatred for the Egyptian domination 
 increased, and again engaged his attention. Once more watching 
 the dissensions about to blaze forth in Wadelai, and the imminent 
 division of the military forces starting for the south, he counted 
 his allies, armed the timid, encouraged the perplexed, mustered 
 his soldiers, and waited, trusting in his star, which his father's 
 spirit promised him would shine with a new light. One of the 
 ritual customs of the populations on the coast of the Albert Lake, 
 is that every enterprise must be preceded by human sacrifices, both 
 to ensure its success and as a defiance to the adversary they mean 
 to strike. In the night of the 9th of January 1889, a child was 
 immolated and left on the boundary of the chief Boki's dwelling, 
 and on the following night a black bullock and a girl twelve years 
 old were killed (by cutting their throats), and buried on the con- 
 fines of the territory of Attikende, Sunga's successor, near the 
 Tunguru military station. The news of the funeral augury was at 
 once spread over the country, and reached the mountains. The 
 chiefs Okello, Boki, and Attikende were sadly impressed by them. 
 The mountaineers of Okusa revolted and surrounded the troops, 
 who were making a raid there for wheat, under the orders of 
 Lieutenant Saleh. But Attikende, vigilant for his safety, 
 immediately brought the news of the impending disaster. A 
 reinforcement of soldiers was despatched, and, rushing on the 
 assailants, liberated the officer from his dangerous position, and 
 spread discouragement and fear among the mountaineers. 
 
 The morning of the 20th found Boki dead, and his friends 
 ascribed his pitiful end to the inexorable hand of the King of 
 Unyoro. Thirsting for revenge, the relatives of the deceased 
 bound an eastern Magungo, whom they found in the village, with 
 ropes, and after having declared him a sorcerer, on the strength 
 of some magical proofs, beat him to death. 
 
 Boki's death was not made known until the third day, as pre-
 
 3 7 2 TEN YEARS IN EQUA TORIA . 
 
 scribed by their customs. The chiefs of the neighbouring territories 
 and his friends assemble at his house to present condolences as to 
 a sick person. In the meantime the corpse has been tightly- 
 wrapped up in cloth made of bark, and then into an ox-skin sack. 
 This package is then exposed to the heat and smoke of a continual 
 and even fire, in order to diy the bag and its contents. Should 
 the bad smell be too strong, the bag may be enclosed in a second, 
 third, and fourth skin, but their number must not exceed ten, as 
 prescribed by the custom of the country. After a certain number 
 of days, varying in accordance with the political condition of the 
 country, the prince's death is solemnly announced. The ceremony 
 of tears and shrieks then begins, which is prolonged to satiety, 
 and finally they proceed to bury the corpse. The son who succeeds 
 the deceased in power, immolates an ox on the grave, with his own 
 hand, and his tears being then dried, he seats himself on a 
 palanquin, and amidst shouts of joy is proclaimed chief of the 
 country and carried to his abode. The festivals of the ascension to 
 power have a longer or shorter duration, according to the import- 
 ance of the principality and the quantity of beer and provisions 
 devoted to consumption. 
 
 Such are the customary funeral ceremonies of princes of 
 secondary importance in the countries bordering on the Albert 
 Lake, differing from the honours paid to a king, whose much 
 grander and more solemn ceremonies are accompanied by the 
 infamous and atrocious custom of burying the living in the gi'ave 
 and immolating human victims. 
 
 Not long after Boki's death the country was devastated by the 
 hordes of King Chua, who set fire to the chief's residence, and 
 carried many women and children into slavery. A great many 
 soldiers hastened to the spot from Wadelai to check the boldness of 
 the invaders, but, owing to their delay in coming, the assailants 
 had already retreated to the opposite side of the Nile when the 
 troops arrived. 
 
 The bands from Unyoro also announced their presence by fre- 
 quent raids in the southern regions of the lake. Babedongo 
 invaded the Katouzi country, and, having seized a large booty of 
 oxen and women, took up his position at Kieya. The King of 
 Unyoro prepared for a decisive battle, and, like a clever guerilla, 
 kept up agitation, and spread alarm at intervals in the several 
 regions near the lake, until the day on which the departure of some 
 of the garrison troops should have weakened the Government, and 
 made the country an easy prey to his ambition ; thus fulfilling the 
 plans of conquest dreamed of for so many years. 
 
 Emin was again devoting himself to his favourite pursuit of 
 ornithological collections, which, although much admired and 
 praised in Europe, contributed to give rise to discouraging opinions 
 about his care for the public administration. But he was then free
 
 EM IN AS AN ORNITHOLOGIST. 373 
 
 from any responsibility, and could give his whole time to study — a 
 pleasant relief from the troubles of his heart and mind. Jephson 
 had become a sportsman, and was so delighted with the prey that 
 ho gathered every day, that he forgot the safety of his legs, which 
 were covered with numerous wounds, the stings of insects. 
 
 Occasionally the proposal to leave Tunguru for Msua was dis- 
 cussed and energetically sustained by Jephson, especially after 
 Shubri, the commanding officer at Msua, had made the generous 
 offer (perhaps beyond his power) to send the porters and escort of 
 soldiers required for our removal. But Emin repeatedly and 
 emphatically declared his intention not to move till Stanley arrived. 
 Perhaps the reason that influenced him was a just one ; both from 
 the uncertainty of the return of the Expedition, and from his 
 natural repugnance to present himself at Msua deprived, though 
 wrongly, of all power and authority. Emin despatched Mogo to 
 chief Mpigwa with letters for Stanley, and shortly afterwards he 
 (Mogo) sent the news of Stanley's presence in the country. On 
 the 26th of January 1889, letters from the commander of the 
 Eelief Expedition for Emin and Jephson reached Tunguru. 
 Stanley's terms were harsh. He allowed us twenty days to join 
 him, with the warning that at the end of that time he would start 
 for the south. He gave a most painful description of the condition 
 in which he had found the rear column ; aud the errors of others as 
 well as his own, he, in dictatorial style, threw back upon our poor 
 persons. 
 
 I quote what follows from Stanley's letter to Jephson, which I 
 copy from his work, Emin Pasha : The Rebellion at the Equator y 
 p. 389, by A. J. Mounteney- Jephson. 
 
 We separated from the Pasha on the 23rd May last, with the under- 
 standing that in about two months you, with or without the Pasha, 
 would start for Fort Bodo with sufficient porters to take the goods at 
 the fort and convey them to the Nyanza. 
 
 We somewhat doubted if his atiairs would permit the Pasha's absence, 
 but we were assured you would not remain inactive. 
 
 It was also understood that the Pasha would erect a small station on 
 Nyamsassie Island as a pi^o vision depot, in order that our Expedition 
 might find means of subsistence on arrival at the lake. 
 
 Eight months have elapsed and not one single promise has been per- 
 formed. 
 
 ****** 
 
 The rear column, which on our departure from Yambuya numbered 
 271 all told, was a mere wreck. Major Barttelot was dead, had been 
 shot with a gun by one of Tippoo Tib's Manyuema, on the morning of 
 the 21st of July. Mr. Jameson had departed on the 23rd July for 
 Stanley Falls, and a letter dated August 12th, five days before my 
 arrival at Banalya, states that he was about descending the Congo
 
 3 7 4 TEN YEARS IN EQUA TORI A . 
 
 river for Bangala ; but the couriers who brought his letter to us stoutly 
 asserted his last intentions were to go down to Banana Point. Mr. 
 Herbert Ward had been sent to Bangala, and finally to St. Paulo de 
 Loanda. He had returned and reached Bangala with letters, instruc- 
 tions from the committee, but was detained there by order of Major 
 Barttelot. 
 
 Mr. John Hose Troup had been invalided home in June 1888. So 
 no one was left with the wreck of the rear column except William 
 Bonny, who is now with me in this camp. 
 
 One hundred Soudanese, Zanzilmris, and Somalies had been buried 
 at Yambuya ; thirty-three men were left at Yambuya, helpless and 
 dying, and foui'teen of these died later on ; twenty- six deserted. 
 
 So that when I saw Bonny and his people, the rear column, Zanzi- 
 baris, Somalies, and Soudanese, numbered 102, all told, out of 271, and 
 only one officer out of five ! Besides this deplorable record, the condi- 
 tion of the stores was just as bad. Out of 6G0 loads^Golb. each — 
 there remained only 23() loads, of 651b. weight. All my personal cloth- 
 ing, except hats, boots, one flannel jacket, a cap, and three pairs of 
 drawers, had been sent down to Bangala because rumour had stated I 
 was dead, and the advance party gone to the dogs ; a remnant of thirty, 
 
 howevei', had managed to escape to Ujiji ! ! ! 
 
 ****** 
 
 The difficulties I met at Banalya are repeated to-day near the Albert 
 
 Lake, and nothing can save us now from being overwhelmed by them 
 
 but a calm and clear decision. If I had hesitated at Banalya very 
 
 likely I should still be there waiting for Jameson and Ward, with my 
 
 own men dying by dozens from sheer inanition. 
 
 ****** 
 
 Are the Pasha, Casati, and yourself to share the same fate ? If you 
 
 are still victims of indecision, then a long good-night to you all ; but 
 
 while I retain my senses, I must save my Expedition. You may be 
 
 saved also if you are wise. 
 
 ****** 
 
 The first instalment of relief was handed to Emin Pasha on or about 
 May 1st, 1888. The second final instalment of relief is at this camp 
 with us, ready for delivery at any place the Pasha designates, or to any 
 person charged by the Pasha to receive it. If the Pasha fails to receive 
 it, or to decide what shall be done with it, I must then decide briefly 
 what I must do. 
 
 Our second object in coming here was to receive such at our camp as 
 were disposed to leave Africa ; our Expedition has no further business 
 in these regions, and will at once retire. 
 
 Try and understand what all this means. Try and see the utter and 
 final abandonment of all further relief, and the bitter end and fate of 
 those obstinate and misguided people who decline assistance when 
 tendered to them. From May 1, 1888, to January 1889, are nine 
 months — so long a time to consider a simple proposition of leaving 
 Africa or staying here ! 
 
 Therefoi'e in the official and formal letters accompanying this ex- 
 planatory note to you, I designate KavalH's village as the rendezvous 
 where I am willing to receive those desirous of leaving Afi-ica, subject,
 
 STANLEY'S LETTER. 375 
 
 of course, to any new light thrown upon the complication by a personal 
 interview, or a second letter from you. 
 
 And now I address myself to you personally. If you consider your- 
 self still a member of the Expedition, subject to my orders, then, upon 
 receipt of this letter you -wall at once leave for Kavalli's, with such of 
 my men, Binza, and the three Soudanese, as are willing to obey you, 
 and bring me the final decision of Emin Pasha and Signor Casati re- 
 specting their personal intentions. 
 
 ****** 
 
 I understand that the Pasha has been deposed, and is a prisoner. 
 Who, then, is to communicate with me respecting what has to be done i 
 I have no authority to receive communications from officers' mutineeis. 
 It was Emin Pasha and his people I was supposed to relieve. If Emin 
 Pasha were dead, then to his lawful successor in authority. Emin 
 Pasha being alive, I can receive no communications from any other 
 person unless he be designated by the Pasha. Therefore, the Pasha, if 
 he be unable to come in person to me at Kavalli's with a sufficient 
 escort of faithful men, or be able to appoint some person authorised 
 to receive this relief, it will remain for me to destroy the ammunition 
 so laboriously brought here, and retui-n home. 
 
 You must understand that my people are only porters. They have 
 performed their contract with me with a fidelity unexampled ; and 
 having brought the boat and goods here, their duty is ended. You 
 have been pleased to destroy the boat, and have injured us irreparably 
 by doing so. 
 
 I presume the two cases of Winchester ammunition left with the 
 Pasha are lost also. 
 
 I ought to mention also that the people at the Itxiri ferry camp are 
 almost all sick, and will be unable to move for at least a month. 
 
 And also I have brought with me about 100 Manyema, with 42 of 
 whom I have conti-acted to pay a tusk of ivory to each for 42 loads 
 they have brought here for Emin Pasha. 
 
 Therefore, to satisfy them I require 42 tvisks of ivory to pay them. 
 Please consider how this can be done to their satisfaction. 
 
 Finally, if the Pasha's people are desirous of leaving this part of 
 Africa, and settle in some country not far remote from here, or any- 
 where bordering the Nyanza (Victoria), or along the route to Zanzibar, 
 I am perfectly ready to assist, besides escorting those who wish to go 
 nome to Cau-o safely. But I must have clear and definite assertions, 
 followed by promptitude, according to such orders as I shall give for 
 effecting this purpose ; or a clear and definite refusal, as we cannot stay 
 here all our lives awaiting people who seem to be not very clear as to 
 what they wish. 
 
 I describe in Jephson's own words the impression made upon us 
 by the above letters, and by another addressed to Emin, an exclu- 
 sively official one : 
 
 We had been looking for Stanley's arrival, and were hoping if 
 the worst came to the worst he would, with his augmented strength, 
 be able to extricate Emin by force, if necessary ; but instead of being 
 strengthened he had a tale to tell of deaths and disaster only.
 
 376 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 The chief of the Expedition, anxious about the miserable con- 
 dition to which the rear cohimu had been reduced, both with regard 
 to men and provisions, and forgetful of the primary reason, pro- 
 claimed urhi ct orhi, of Emin's liberation, declared that it was im- 
 possible for him to achieve it ; sent an ultimatum of limited time, 
 not very courteously worded, and certain that Emiu would go ta 
 him, should a ray of hope shine, amidst such misfortunes, speculated 
 on Emin's sad condition. He recalled Jephson, and abandoned 
 Emin to himself, either because he would not or could not risk any- 
 thing for his safety. 
 
 Jephson wrote a letter to the head of the provisional Govern- 
 ment, rather to inform him that he had been commissioned to bring 
 forty-two elephant tusks than to announce Stanley's arrival. Emin 
 in an epistle to Major Selim Matera sent the news of Stanley's 
 arrival, and, whilst requesting that steamers might be sent to con- 
 vey him to Were, advised him to send a deputation of officers to 
 Stanley, and positively declared that, for the moment and till the 
 arrival of the officers from AVadelai, he should not leave Tunguru. 
 
 On January 28, 1889, after having overcome some difficulties 
 made by the steamer's crew, Jephson left for Msua. Next morning 
 he was greatly surprised to find that the lOiedivc had left for Tun- 
 guru, and he was, therefore, obliged to cross the lake to Were, in a 
 native boat, procured by the commander of the station. He had 
 left us with the firm conviction that we should never meet again. 
 To the last moment he had insisted on Emin accompanying him ; 
 but this time I was gratified to see my advice accepted " that no 
 inconsiderate step should be taken," but that the course of events- 
 should be watched ; that firmness and confidence should rule every 
 action, and that the word he had given, that he would not move 
 until he had conferred with the officers who were to arrive from 
 Wadelai, must be kept. " It will be a matter of a few days, but I 
 promise you to take the Pasha to Stanley," I said to Jephson, at 
 his departure. It is certain that, had we accepted the strange pro- 
 posal of leaving with Jephson, the Pasha's departure would have 
 been prevented at any cost, and that Jephson would never have 
 dared to disobey Stanley's imperious order. As to myself, it is true 
 that nobody would have opposed my departure, as I was only a 
 visitor in the Province, but Emin's position having been made more 
 difficult I should have considered myself bound not to take advan- 
 tage of my independence. Then through a culpable imprudence 
 and hasty resolution, the way of our ulterior redemption would 
 have been closed for ever. In order to avoid being driven to ruin, 
 it was important for us to choose a wise and prudent mode of action, 
 that would lead to the accomplishment of our wishes. The advice 
 of the great poet was a light and guide to us : 
 
 " ' Grapple that, ' 
 Said he, ' but first make proofs if it be such 
 As will sustain thee.' "—Dante, Inferno, Canto 24.
 
 ( 37; 
 
 CHAPTER XXX. 
 
 STANLEY'S MANIFESTO. 
 
 News of the arrival of Stanley — Departure from Wadelai — Nomination of a com- 
 mission to be sent to the head of the Expedition — Refusal of Emin Pasha — 
 New perils — The means of avoiding them — Proposal accepted by Emin — The 
 o^jinion of the officers of the Province asked — Departure for Msua— New in- 
 trigues — Emin concedes a pardon and amnesty — Selim Bey — The voyage to 
 Were — Osman Latif — His equivocal conduct — He throws himself into the 
 river — "You should have left this can-ion to be drowned!" — Always the 
 same — Counsels given to Emin — Emin shares my opinion — Emiu goes to 
 Stanley's camp — William Bonny — Danger of being assailed by the troops of 
 the King of Unyoro — Bonny sent " not to fight, but to bring over the luggage " 
 — Return of Emin to Were — Colonel Fatelmula and his menaces — Impression of 
 the officers after their visit to Stanley — Letter from Stanley to the officers at 
 Wadelai — Advice given to Emin — Difficulties of the situation — Flight of sol- 
 diers and servants — Departure of Vita Hassan — The road from Were to 
 Buguera — Arrival at the encampment of the Relief Expedition. 
 
 The news of the arrival of Stanley did not excite much animation 
 in the discussions at the camp of Wadelai. Officers and employes, 
 soldiers and servants, were all prostrated by the violent shock that 
 the recent invasion had given to the strength of the Government. 
 They had conquered the enemy, but the victory had absorbed all 
 the resources of defence of which the country could still dispose. 
 It had also increased the boldness of the natives, always ready to 
 profit by the recent weakness of the conquerors, and to enter into 
 open warfare against them. The desire to return to Egypt, and 
 the want of ammunition, however, united the two opposing factions 
 in one sole interest. Those who had decided to leave, no less than 
 those to whom the idea of leaving the country was not pleasing, 
 hailed with joy the return of the Relief Expedition. 
 
 There arose, however, a difficulty : that of entering into commu- 
 nication with Stanley. But this also disappeared when the Pasha 
 spontaneously offered to become, in a certain manner, their inter- 
 mediary in the relations that must take place. Fully assured of 
 finding no obstacles to the execution of their programme, the most 
 influential men did not delay in agi-eeing to the nomination of a 
 commission, composed of six officers, who were ordered to assemble 
 at Tunguru, and proceed to Stanley's camp under the segis of Emin 
 Pasha. 
 
 But when Major Selim Matera waited on Emin to beseech him 
 to assist the representatives of the Province and to facilitate their
 
 378 TEN YEARS IJSi EQUATOR! A. 
 
 intercourse with Stanley, the Pasha resolutely refused to accede to 
 their request. Appointed to the Government of the Province by 
 the Viceroy, he could not wrong his own dignity, and injure the 
 authority of the legitimate Government, by thus recognising the 
 work of rebellion, and still less could he lend himself to the office 
 of an irresponsible interpreter, as they foolishly asked him to 
 become. In face of such an unexpected refusal, the officers were 
 at a loss to whom to apply. They knew that if they presented 
 themselves in Stanley's camp alone they would not he admitted to 
 confer with the leader of the Expedition. Disputes were renewed 
 with vigour, void of sense and result. The greater number agreed 
 to give up the project; some seemed disposed instead to excite 
 public opinion against the Pasha for interfering with their incon- 
 testable rights to the help sent by the Viceroy. The submission 
 of the first, and the possible success of the intrigues of the latter 
 and more daring, gave cause to fear that new complications might 
 arise which it was most desirable to avoid, so that the much- 
 longed-for hope of escape might not be lost. 
 
 If Emin, in his humiliated condition, caused by the rebellion of 
 his officials, secretly nourished any desire to avenge his injuries, he 
 was unable to carry it out for want of energy and courage ; and he 
 also retained for his followers, from habit as well as tenderness of 
 sentiment, a good deal of affection. 
 
 To profit by this state of the Pasha's mind, and make him cut 
 the Gordian knot, did not appear to me difficult, nor did I judge it 
 to be improper, could we arrange matters so as not to ofiend either 
 his susceptibility or his dignity. 
 
 I explained my idea frankly to Emin. I pointed out to him the 
 new perils to which we might be exposed, and the vain hope of any 
 probable aid from Stanley, and concluded that the only experiment 
 presenting any hope of success was that he should resume the reins 
 of government. Although not confident of success, but impelled 
 by a sense of ambition to reinstate himself in his former office, he 
 seemed disposed to direct prudent efforts to the purpose. It was 
 not diflScult to find adhei'ents to the proposal, especially amongst 
 those who intended to abandon Equatoria and return to Egypt. 
 But when the project was presented to the assembly for discussion, 
 the usual reservations and doubts arose again, and it was decided 
 that the officers and employes residing at Wadelai should be con- 
 sulted about it. Delay was advised and accepted ; but, whilst 
 awaiting their reply, considering the limited period conceded by 
 the chief of the Expedition, it was decided to start for Msua. This 
 was a step in the right direction, and we hailed the decision with 
 joy. 
 
 In that furthermost station of Equatoria w^ere assembled the 
 greater part of the families of the officers and civil employes, espe- 
 cially Egyptian, who had gone there on abandoning Dufile. These
 
 DIFFICULTIES OF THE REBELS. 
 
 379 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 ^ 
 
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 1 
 
 ^^ 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 ^^^^^^^^^^^ i 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 ^HP'' 1 
 
 
 
 JJ 
 
 <• 
 
 OSMAN LATIF. 
 
 were desirous of profiting by the invitation of the Viceroy to go to 
 Egypt, and lamented the delay that was interposed to their depar- 
 ture, rendered necessary as it was by the scarcity of food, which
 
 38o TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 was quite inadequate to the wants of the great number of persons 
 in that little station. 
 
 In agreement with Major Selim Matera, a man of moderate 
 mind and serious disposition, it was proposed, in a numerous and 
 inlluential assembly, that the project postponed at Tunguru should 
 be slightly modified in presence of the pressing necessity of no 
 longer delaying to send a deputation to Stanley's camp, and that 
 those who had decided to return to Egypt (realising the duty of 
 being united under the orders of their Governor) should humble 
 themselves to ask his pardon for the deplorable actions of which 
 the Province had been for many months the theatre, and pray 
 him to resume his former functions as the only legitimate repre- 
 sentative of his Highness the Viceroy. 
 
 There were no discussions, and the act was approved and signed 
 by all who were at the station. It was therefore settled that a 
 copy of the resolution should be sent to Tunguru and Wadelai, 
 requesting at the same time the adhesion of all those who intended 
 to profit by the invitation sent by the Khedive. On the 9th of 
 February 1889, Emin resumed the direction of affairs. He raised 
 Selim Matera to the rank of lieutenant-colonel, appointing him 
 Vice-Go vernor, and decreed other promotions as the recompense of 
 the acts of valour of the officers who had fought at Dufile. 
 
 Having then given the principal orders for evacuating the 
 stations, Emin, some officers, and I embarked in the steamer direct 
 for Were. 
 
 Osman Latif, recently promoted to the rank of major, was 
 commanded to hasten the arrival of the people at Msua, and 
 subsequently to despatch them to the camp of concentration. This 
 mail had come into the Province about the end of 1882 as Vice- 
 (vovernor. He had great experience in intrigues, and for about 
 tvventy years had held various oflSces under the administration of 
 the Soudan — putting into his actions an apparent good nature and 
 exaggerated respect, as well as a hypocritical appearance of 
 religion. In consequence of a dispute occurring at Dufile between 
 himself and that commander, Emin had dismissed him from 
 his office, and he had only lately been reinstated. During the 
 imprisonment of Emin, Osman Latif's conduct — faithful to his 
 principles — had been equivocal ; while suggesting odious mea- 
 sures, without having the courage to declare them openly in 
 the assembly, he stealthily sent news and advice to the Pasha, 
 thus seeking to win his friendship, and that of Jephson, in 
 order to get from both, in due time, favourable declarations of his 
 honesty and loyalty to the Government at Cairo. But there was a 
 person who was aware of his double game, and reproached him 
 bitterly for it, denouncing his deceitful conduct. 
 
 The rogue, at once perceiving the gravity of his situation, and 
 pretending to be driven mad by the infamous calumny, was seized
 
 OSMAN LATIF'S CHARACTER. 381 
 
 with a wild impulse to throw himself into the river. Some humane 
 persons took him out, still trembling with convulsions, and brought 
 him into the presence of the chief of the rebels, who said, in a tone 
 of irony and contempt, "You should have left this carrion to be 
 drowned. What was the use of saving him ? " I was afterwards 
 assured that Osman would not have been drowned, even had he 
 remained all day in the river, for at the place he had selected, and 
 where he threw himself on his knees, the water only reached his 
 chin. Later ou he said to Fatelmula that he had the public good 
 in view when feigning friendship for the Pasha, and he said just 
 the same to Emin, when speaking of his suspected sympathy with 
 the rebels ; also, in the duty entrusted to him at Msua by the 
 Governor, Osman Latif did all he could to retard the regular work 
 of concentration. 
 
 During the joui-ney, which lasted two days, being obliged to pass 
 the night in a village of Lur, Emin and I had several long conver- 
 sations on the line of conduct that it w^ould be best to adopt. We 
 were agreed as to the mode of judging of the situation, and our 
 conclusions coincided. Nor could it have been otherwise, because 
 they arose from facts which, being misrepresented, as they were 
 later on, were ascribed either to a former programme, unknown to 
 me, or to sudden fears, unsupported by cool reasoning. 
 
 The departure from the Province, and consequently our certain 
 liberation, was a work for which we were nut indebted to the 
 Relief Expedition. The attainment of its aim had embittered the 
 minds of the discontented in Equatoria ; that is to say, of those 
 who were firm in their decision not to move. It was, therefore, the 
 duty of the Governor, and a debt of gratitude to Lieutenant-Colonel 
 Selim Matera, and towards all who had, by the act of Msua, con- 
 tributed to a good result, to take care of those men and their com- 
 panions who intended to return to Egypt. 
 
 Emin also, by reason of his ofiice, had to try with all his strength 
 to satisfy the wishes of the Government at Cairo, and to watch over 
 its interests. 
 
 To ensure the full execution of this task, it was necessary for 
 the Governor to preserve his own independence until the caravan 
 of his subordinates was organised for the journey. The situation 
 of Were, on the shore of the lake — admirably adapted both for the 
 calling of the steamers and for keeping up constant communi- 
 cation with the camp of the Relief Expedition at Kavalli — was 
 pointed out as best fitted for the arrangements. Besides these 
 essential reasons, there was another which merited serious con- 
 sideration. It related to the character that jDublic opinion attri- 
 buted to Stanley, which would have made it difficult for him 
 and Emin to agree. It was to be supposed that the chief of the 
 Relief Expedition, according to the promises made to the Viceroy, 
 would have postponed his departure until all were ready ; but in
 
 3S2 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 the event of his cl(»ciding to hasten the return, the number of guns 
 that should have been available, and the ammunition which was to 
 have been handed over by Stanley, would have been sufficient to 
 ])rotect the column in its long journey, and guarantee the necessary 
 supply of food. 
 
 The mustering ordered by the Governor, assisted by his officers 
 and employes, would have silenced the inevitable mistrust and 
 fi-iction arising from their direct dependence on European officers, 
 speaking another language and accustomed to another style of 
 discipline. 
 
 Our column once formed, the Governor could easily settle 
 everything about the march to the coast with the chief of the 
 Expedition. 
 
 These were our ideas of the situation, and, fully possessed by 
 them, Emin and his officers started for Buguera on February 16, 
 1889, to visit Stanley. Four days later another plan would pro- 
 bably have been proposed and substituted for that chosen by Emin. 
 On February 20, Mr. William Bonny arrived at the camp of Were, 
 with thirty Zanzibaris and sixty-four native porters, to assist the 
 Pasha's people in their removal to the camp at Buguera. Katonzi, 
 chief of Magala, who in the month of May of the previous year 
 had concluded a friendly alliance with the Government, cemented 
 by the exchange of blood-brotherhood between himself and 
 Captain Shukri, came in the night to tell me that Babedongo 
 and Ireta, noted chiefs of the King of Unyoro, were near us at 
 Kieya on a marauding expedition. They had already ravaged 
 and devastated a large tract of country, and might shortly storm 
 our camp. 
 
 The news might be exaggerated, but, as King Chua hated us, 
 the tale was credible. A surprise would have been injurious, for 
 we had but twenty guns and a limited supply of ammunition in 
 the camp. I then went to Mr. Bonny, who had announced his 
 intention of leaving the following morning, and, having told him 
 of the information just received, I begged him to remain with us 
 until J. could send a letter to Emin at Stanley's camp, as the delay 
 would allow the two steamers to arrive from Msua, whose position 
 would be critical if we were found retreating to the hills, before 
 superior numbers. With calm, icy serenity, Mr. Bonny declined 
 to grant my request ; talked of his responsibility, and said he 
 could not take the liberty of altering the orders of his chief, who 
 had sent him. " not to fight, but to bring over the luggage." I 
 said no more, and he left early next morning. Two days later. 
 Captain Nelson said I should have been wise had I compelled him 
 to remain. 
 
 On February 22, 1889, Emin returned and told me of the compact 
 made between Stanley and himself, he having said nothing of his. 
 own plans, as he had intended.
 
 STANLEY'S MANIFESTO. 383 
 
 On the 26th, he again joined Stanley at Buguera, carrying with 
 him the news that the party of rebels in Waclelai led by Captain 
 Fatelmala, indignant at the weakness of Selim Bey and his com- 
 rades, had deposed him from the command of the Province in 
 favour of Captain Fatelmula, whom they had further promoted to 
 the rank of colonel. A court-martial had been held, which not 
 only confirmed the deposition of the l^asha, but pronounced sentence 
 of death against him and me. 
 
 Our officers were much pleased with their reception by Stanley. 
 They had gone to his camp expecting to be severely reprimanded 
 because of the late disturbances in the Province, but he had been 
 perfectly cordial and courteous. He had confided to their care a 
 written manifesto, addressed to all officers and emj)loyes in Wadelai. 
 It ran as follows : — 
 
 Salaams ! 
 
 The officers, Selim Bey and others, having requested 
 Mr. Stanley to await the arrival of their friends from Wadelai, Mr. 
 Stanley causes his answer to be written down in order to prevent mis- 
 luiderstanding. Mr. Stanley and his officers having been specially sent 
 by the Khedive as guides to show the road to such people as desired to 
 leave the Equatorial Province foi- Cairo, cannot do otherwise than con- 
 sent to give such reasonable time as may be required for the assembling 
 of all people willing to depart with him. 
 
 It must, however, be positively understood that all men proposing to 
 depart with Mr. Stanley must provide their own means of carriage for 
 themselves, then* families, and baggage. Ko exception can be made,, 
 except for the Pasha, Captain Casati, and the Greek merchant named 
 Marco, the two last being strangers, and not in the Egyptian service. 
 
 Therefore, all officers and men proposing to depart from this country 
 mth Mr. Stanley will be caref id to provide such animals and poiters as 
 they may need for the transport of their children and goods. 
 
 They will also be careful not to biuden themselves with superfluous 
 articles : arms, clothing, ammunition, cooking pots, and provisions being 
 the only necessaries needed. 
 
 The reserve ammunition which has been brought from Egypt for the 
 service of the Pasha and his people, is of course at the disposition of the 
 Pasha only, according to the orders of his Highness the Khedive. 
 
 Mr. Stanley wishes it to be distinctly understood that he is respon- 
 sible only for finding the right road, and for provisioning all the people 
 according to the nature of the country. 
 
 Mr. Stanley, however, holds himself in honour bound to do all in his 
 power for the comfort, safety, and welfare of Emin Pasha and his 
 people, and to assist his friends in all things to the best of his abihty. 
 
 On the arrival of this answer before the officers at Wadelai, the 
 officers responsible for the direction of the people will do well to hold a 
 general council, and consider this answei- before moving. Such people 
 as beUeve in then' hearts that they have the courage and means to de- 
 pai-t from the Equatorial Province will prepare to proceed to this camp 
 as directed by the Pasha. Such people as are doubtful of their power
 
 384 TEN YEARS IN EQUATOKIA. 
 
 and ability to move will act as the superiors of the party will decide. 
 Mr. Stanley, in the meanwhile, will form an advance camp to make 
 ready for the reception of such people as are goin^ out. 
 
 Henry M. Stanley, 
 Commanding the Relief Expedition. 
 At Kavalli's, 
 
 Fehi'uarij Idth, 1889. 
 
 Selim Bey told me the drift of this letter. I was astonished at 
 the paragraph concerning the time allowed, well worded, but not 
 so clear and intelligible as the people to whom it was addressed and 
 circumstances required it to be. The Pasha was the person directly 
 responsible for executing the Viceroy's orders, and the way in 
 which his authority and interference were spoken of irritated me 
 the more, because through me, and afterwards personally when he 
 left for Buguera, the Pasha advised the Lieut.-Colonel not to look 
 too closely into the division of the ammunition in Wadelai between 
 those who wished to leave and those who remained with Fatelmula. 
 The same day Selim Bey left for Wadelai, determined to stand no 
 more of Fatelmula's interference. I exhorted him to urge forward 
 the soldiers and their families. He wished me good-bye, and I 
 told him I hoped to see him again ; but I did so merely out of 
 politeness. 
 
 In the Province, Selim was beset with difficulties, and the camp 
 at Were was constantly disturbed by repeated requests to move 
 forward to Buguera ; and this took so many men that on the 
 arrival of a steamer the getting in of fuel became a work of time 
 and toil. The Pasha's stay in Stanley's camp was regarded as a 
 virtual abandonment of his subjects. Food was becoming scarce, 
 and, worst of all, there was neither order nor organisation any- 
 where, so that no one knew whether the promises made would ever 
 be earned out. 
 
 The monotony of our sojourn was broken by the disappearance 
 one night of a few of our soldiers and servants. Some fled because 
 they wished to join their absent families, and some because of the 
 scarcity of provisions. Five of them were killed in trying to pass 
 through Melindwa (by night) on the road which skirts the lake. 
 
 The Negro has a singular nature. He usually has no thought 
 for the morrow, is inured to privations, and impassive in danger. 
 Woe if he thinks ! The moment he does so he sees visions, panic 
 seizes upon him, trouble annihilates him, he seeks safety in flight, 
 a;nd rushes on to his own destruction. 
 
 I remained at Were until I could send my friend Vita Hassan to 
 the camp at Buguera, as his position among the Egyptian malcon- 
 tents was insecure after what had happened at Dufile, where he 
 was looked upon as a loyal adherent of Emin's. Hassan left on 
 March 1, and I followed next day. The road from our camp at 
 Were, following a westerly direction, for three hours' march leads
 
 ARRIVAL AT BUGUERA. 385 
 
 over a grassy plain, broken only by a few clumps of mimosa bushes, 
 and is not crossed by any important stream, but is watered by the 
 innumerable windings of the Niebetembe, flowing from the moun- 
 tains at the end of the plain. 
 
 The banks of this small river once passed, the ground gradually 
 rises, and two hours' climbing conducts us to a magnificently wide 
 terrace, which commands a view over the lake to the wooded shores 
 of Nyamsanzi and Nsabe on the western side, whilst away to the 
 east is the mighty mountain wall enclosing Muenghe and the dis- 
 trict of Baganghese. The narrow road, with its perpetual windings, 
 look sharp and steep, seen from behind the hills, but it is not 
 really so. 
 
 We spent the night as well as we could on this wide terrace, 
 only suffering from the heavy dews and cold. Rising early, we 
 pressed forward next morning, our nerves tingling with the enjoy- 
 ment of the pure bracing air. Then the road again became steep, 
 and for an hour we had fatiguing climbing, after which a series of 
 gentle undulations brought us to Buguera. About ten o'clock on 
 the 3rd of March 1889, I entered my tent in the camp of the 
 Relief Expedition, and became henceforward but a unit in the 
 crowd. 
 
 2 B
 
 ( 386 ) 
 
 CHAPTER XXXI. 
 
 DEPARTURE OF THE EXPEDITION. 
 
 Waterparting between the Aruwimi and the Albert Lake — The plateau of Buguera 
 — Flora and fauna — The chimpanzee — Catching with nets — Drunk in the trap 
 — A chimpanzee drummer — The Walegga, Wahuma, and Vavra — The Mount 
 Virika — The camp of Buguera — Service of the camp — Transports from Were 
 — Refusal of the Zanzibaris — Stanley Bulamatari — His character — Robbers 
 rewarded — The departure is fixed — Even Captain Fatelmula wishes to go to 
 Egj-pt — Conversation with Stanley — The officers complain — The Koran peeps 
 out — Samadia — How to cure headache — A letter of recommendation to a 
 Wahuma — The torture of the tahatt — Biamillah il Bahman — Final evacuation 
 of the camp of Were — Stanley's fears — Emin's hesitation — The 5th of April — 
 " Heave you to Goil " — The assembly — "Assure as my name is Stanley" — 
 Rigorous watch — Those who leave — Omar the Shillook — Well-distributed bas- 
 tinado — Abandonment and burning of the camp of Buguera — The river Tarara 
 — Mpinga and Mazamboni — Flight of sixty-nine soldiers and servants — 
 Council of inquiry — Mild sentence — Necessity of procuring porters — Stanley 
 seriously ill — Fever and rlieumatism — A furious hurricane — Chests of ammuni- 
 tion buried — Flight of servants — Arrest of Rehan — Summary judgment — ^The 
 body thrown among grass. 
 
 The plateau of Ijuguera, which has an altitude of about 3691 feet 
 (1125 metres), is formed by a slightly undulating grassy surface, 
 broken here and there by currents flowing from the waterparting 
 of the Albert Lake and the river Aruwimi. This tortuous line 
 runs without a break, and almost unnoticed, except on the western 
 slope, where it is intersected by small rivulets, forming the river 
 Deki, which flows to the Ituri. 
 
 On the eastern side, on the contrary, after a short space of flat 
 ground, the slope suddenly changes its character, and the drainage, 
 falling into the Niabetembe, is carried to the lake. 
 
 The plants found here are numerous and varied, uniting those 
 of the highest altitudes, such as the THfolium mtemiedmm, the 
 Cardaminc hirsuta, the Hclicrysum angustifolmm, belonging to the 
 European region, and the Protect acaulis and the SiJcrmaoiia 
 Africana, of the southern countries of Africa. To complete the 
 rich family, a beautiful specimen of the fern-tree, an egathea, may 
 be admired upon an arid little hill, reminding one of dear and 
 distant countries. 
 
 The fauna also includes a very diversified family of animals, 
 especially of birds ; to a kind of pigeon hitherto only found in 
 countries of great elevation, one may add the anthus and the
 
 AN APE PARADISE.
 
 THE CHIMPANZEE AND THE DRUM. 387 
 
 cuckoo, which come from Europe, and a species of nettarinia, 
 which generally prefers the plains. 
 
 The woods which bound the plateau, at a few liours' distance, 
 are inhabited by a colony of chimpanzees, which rush about and, 
 plunder the rich fields of Indian millet and bananas. 
 
 We amused ourselves for several days by sending some young 
 and expert Soudanese hunters to try to kill or capture some, but 
 the cautious chimpanzee, making a slow and prudent retreat, 
 always deluded our hopes, disappearing in the dense parts of the 
 forest. To surprise a family of those monkeys and take one alive, 
 the Western Sandehs, on a favourable opportunity, spread the nets 
 generally used for capturing gazelles and antelopes. At dusk they 
 disturb the silent abode of the chimpanzees with loud cries and 
 the barking of dogs ; terrified by the unexpected assault, the 
 animals run away in a disorderly and precipitate manner, and fall 
 into the nets, which entangle their limbs. The struggle with the 
 furious prisoners is more dangerous than ever, their muscular 
 strength and agility giving them an almost certain chance of escape. 
 The adults, wounded with knives, and the little ones, powerless 
 after the long struggle, form the trophies of the hunters. 
 
 It is said that the Walegga are in the habit, on dark nights, of 
 placing large jars of foaming beer at the foot of the trees where a 
 family of chimpanzees live. At dawn the gluttonous animals 
 pounce upon the desired beverage and, after many quarrels, the 
 stronger and more fortunate plunge their heads into the jars and 
 empty them. Staggering and intoxicated, they fall into a deep 
 sleep, and their apparently lifeless bodies lie scattered about upon 
 the scene of their orgies. The wary hunters, who up to this point 
 have watched the wild gaiety of their prey, come out of their 
 hiding-places, and securely tie the limbs of the poor drunkards, 
 who soon after awaken to the loss of their liberty. 
 
 Captain Shukri, commander of the station at Msua, told me that, 
 during an excursion into the mountains of the Lendu (a name given 
 to the Walegga by the eastern populations), he was obliged to pitch 
 his camp in a dense wood. Upon rising the next morning, he saw 
 to his great surprise that a drum had been taken from near where 
 the guns were stacked. The general opinion was that some daring 
 native had stolen it, but after proceeding a short distance, they 
 heard the sound of the beating of a drum from the top of a tree. 
 An old chimpanzee was discovered with a drum-stick in his hand, 
 imitating the beating of the instrument, which, unobserved, he had 
 witnessed the day before. Gunshots, meancing shouts, throwing 
 of darts, did not avail to recover it, for the monkey, leaping, with 
 herculean strength, from branch to branch and from plant to plant, 
 and still tightly holding his precious spoil, was lost to the sight of 
 the soldiers, and probably joined his own companions. 
 
 The original population of the country, in remote times, was the
 
 388 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 Walegga, who, being driven out by tlie Wahuma coming from 
 Unyoro, took refuge in the mountains. The Wahuma are con- 
 sidered in the country as of noble caste, and are the true masters 
 of the soil, having the Vavra as their subjects and as agricultural 
 labourers. 
 
 The latter come from countries situated in the west ; their front 
 teeth are filed and painted, their ears are pierced, and the women 
 have a piece of round wood stuck through the upper lip. They 
 live entirely upon agricultural produce, and are forbidden to possess 
 cattle, which are the exclusive property of the nobles. 
 
 The conquering tribe of the Wahuma is not governed by a single 
 chief, but divided under several, according to the groups forming 
 the great family. Thus Kavalli commands the Waviasi, Mpigwa 
 the Wavivaghi, Sagara the Wavisu, and Katonzi the Wavitu ; the 
 latter being the most aristocratic part of the tribe. The chief of 
 the Wavitu, by riuht of custom, has the prerogative of the investi- 
 ture of new chiefs in the single branches. 
 
 The climate of Buguera is healthy, and the air salubrious. The 
 wind blows periodically from the east, rising and subsiding with 
 the sun. The mean temperature does not descend below 16° 
 Centigrade. Frequent and abundant rains refresh the soil. 
 
 Looking towards the horizon, which extends along a vast line 
 of heights stretching from south to south-east, attention is attracted 
 by a great mass of greyish-white cindery clouds, which, suspended 
 in the air, enfold the highest crests of the chain. The aqueous 
 vapour, dissipated and rarefied at intervals, just when it seems 
 inclined to withdraw the veil and satisfy the desire of the eye, 
 suddenly becomes denser, as if jealous of its guardianship. 
 
 It was the afternoon of the oOth of April 1889; the air was 
 calm, and the sky clear ; all eyes were turned to the south ; clouds 
 which obscured the great mountains, moving with increased 
 rapidity, broke up and rose ; the sun darted its vivid rays, and 
 through a clear and limpid atmosphere there appeared the crest of 
 the Virika or Euwenzori, the great mountain of the Vakongio- 
 The top and sides, clothed in white, showed that it was a snow- 
 clad mountain. Its height is gigantic, and, although the distance 
 is considerable, its Alpine form was distinctly visible. It is the 
 Varikampanga, of which the people of Unyoro say that no one 
 who has attempted the mysteries of its ascent has ever returned. 
 Cold, and horrible monsters are supposed to rule over it. As if 
 offended by the intensity of our scrutiny, the protecting clouds 
 resumed their usual office, leaving us with a keener desire than 
 ever to solve the mystery. 
 
 One entered the camp of mobilisation by the southern gate, and 
 at the end of an ample square the Egyptian flag floated on the top 
 of a high pole. A large hut, with a sloping roof, and opening on 
 one side, formed the office of the commander of the Expedition.
 
 THE CAMP AT BUGUERA. 389 
 
 On each side of it were the tents of the British officers, and those 
 which were used for the magazines. The two long sides which 
 enclosed the square were formed by a series of huts of uniform 
 size, symmetrically arranged, and were the dwellings used by the 
 officers and employes. A second group of huts, placed at a con- 
 venient distance from the former, was occupied by the soldiers and 
 minor officials. The camp was enclosed by the huts of the 
 Zanzibari and the Manyema of the Expedition. 
 
 The guards of the camp were the Zanzibaris, under the command 
 of a British ofiicer. The daily distribution of food was limited to 
 those composing the Expedition ; the distribution of animal food 
 to the people of the Pasha was effected weekly. The rules for the 
 government of the camp, the authority over everybody and every- 
 thing, emanated from Stanley and his officers. The Pasha had but 
 an apparent authority. Stanley touched him in his most tender 
 point by saying, with some slight irony, that he was the man who 
 must make the scientific observations during the journey. 
 
 As Stanley had promised, the transport of the effects of the 
 camp of Were to Buguera was performed (from February 14) by 
 Zanzibaris, assisted by the natives. Of course, the fatiguing 
 journey from the lake to the plateau could not be agreeable to the 
 porters. Their discontent was increased by continual invectives 
 thrown at them in a tone of contempt as Government men — 
 invectives which ended by taking away that reciprocal respect 
 which it was a paramount duty to preserve, for the sake of order 
 and discipline. It is true that, by every report, the officers and 
 employes, especially the Egyptians, were not distinguished by 
 their morality. But this should not have surprised the members 
 of the Expedition, who had still fresh in their memory the outrages 
 of which Egypt had been the theatre during the rebellion of Arabi 
 Pasha. The revolt which had broken out in Equatoria against 
 Emin ought still less to have constituted a motive for the harsh 
 treatment of those who had complied with the wishes of the 
 Viceroy, and to whom Stanley had pledged himself as leader on 
 their return. 
 
 The morning of the 10th of :\Iarch 1889, the troops who should 
 have gone to the lake on their usual service did so with murmurs, 
 and only the intervention of Stanley could make them go. But 
 when a little way from the encampment the most daring obsti- 
 nately refused to proceed, and Captain Nelson thought it better to 
 send back the whole company. 
 
 Repression was prompt and immediate. The principal insti- 
 gators were disarmed, fiogaed, and put under arrest. And when 
 .justice had been done, and Stanley ordered their departure for the 
 lake, no one made any further opposition. Not a word was 
 spoken. The punishment was inflicted in a bold, frank, confident 
 manner ; and to one of the guiltv men, who in a frightened, faint
 
 390 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 voice, answered the call, he said in a grave voice, while the blows 
 rained down : 
 
 " My name is Stanley Bulamatari (the stone-breaker), and not 
 only Ibrahim, like yours." 
 
 Stanley is a man remarkable for strengthof character, resolution, 
 promptness of thought, and iron will. Jealous of his own authority, 
 he does not tolerate exterior influences, nor ask advice. Diffi- 
 culties do not deter him, disasters do not dismay him. With an 
 extraordinary readiness of mind he improvises means, and draws 
 himself out of a difficulty ; absolute and severe in the execution 
 of his duty, he is not always prudent, or free from hasty and 
 erroneous judgments. Irresolution and hesitation irritate him, 
 disturbing his accustomed gravity ; his countenance being usually 
 serious. Eeserved, laconic, and not very sociable, he does not 
 awaken sympathy ; but on closer acquaintance he is found very 
 agreeable, from the frankness of his manner, liis brilliant conversa- 
 tion, and his gentlemanly courtesy. 
 
 During the night of the 2ord of March 1889, an alarm was 
 raised. Some natives, allured by a few fine heifers (stolen in raids 
 from a tribe which had had the audacity to attack the body of the 
 Expedition in its march towards the lake), had stealthily pene- 
 trated into the camp., but not cautiously enough to elude the 
 vigilance of the sentries. Two of the band were arrested, and next 
 morning brought into the presence of Stanley. 
 
 " You have come for meat, at a great risk," he said. " I will 
 make you a present of two goats, but remember, and do not forget 
 to tell your friends, that if a similar attempt is repeated, the 
 culprits shall, without fail, be hung on a tree." 
 
 The delay in the arrival of news from Wadelai occasioned 
 various comments. Stanley, who only waited to start until the 
 health of some of his Zauzibaris was restored, had fixed the date 
 of his departure, as he had originally decided in his own mind 
 when he caused the letters to be written to the otticials of "Wadelai, 
 conceding to them a reasoncible time. 
 
 Stanley had already proposed to Emin that the departure should 
 take place on the 25th of March, and the latter had agreed to it. 
 He afterwards put oft' the time until the 10th of April, and Emin 
 accepted the new arrangement. Mr. Jephson told me of the. 
 decision arrived at, on the 14th of March, and to him I frankly 
 observed that it would be impossible to collect the people, so as to 
 depart in twenty-five days. 
 
 •' The assembling them for departure requires a long time. 
 We are in the Soudan, my dear Jephson ; fixing such an 
 early date is as much as to say that many of them are to be 
 abandoned." 
 
 I spoke of it afterwards to Emin, who, however, constantly said 
 that he wished to await the arrival of his men, and was ready
 
 COJSI VERSA TION WITH STANLE It. 391 
 
 to separate himself from the Expedition, should it set out befoie 
 they were all assembled. 
 
 But on the 25th a letter arrived bearing the signature of thirty- 
 six officers, and announcing in concise terms (without the display 
 of either presumption or servility) their unanimous wish to return 
 to Egypt. The names of Fatelmula and other rebels, that figured 
 in the letter, caused alarm ; the people regarded it as a snare, and 
 in a council held by Stanley, in the presence of the Pasha, it was 
 voted necessary to hasten the departure ; to abandon the people of 
 Wadelai, to evacuate Were, and to send ammunition to Niangabo, 
 a territory subject to the chief Mazamboni. 
 
 Captain Nelson alone maintained that the Pasha could not agree 
 to a sudden departure, without failing in his duty, and opposed it ; 
 but Stanley willed it, and the 10th of April was accepted by Emin 
 as the date, with a formal pledge. 
 
 I was only informed of this resolution on the following day, 
 and then by the chief of the Expedition himself ; I heard of Captain 
 Nelson's objections later on. 
 
 In the afternoon, Stanley came to my abode, and briefly repre- 
 sented to me the vicissitudes which were leading the British 
 Expedition to ruin, and its present critical position. He enume- 
 rated the negotiations which had taken place between him and the 
 Governor, deploring the carelessness and slowness with whicli 
 Emin's people proceeded, who every day declared their intention 
 of starting, and yet delayed their arrival. He concluded by ex- 
 pressing his doubts as to the intentions of the Wadelai officers, 
 since Emin himself was rather suspicious. Was it his duty, he 
 asked me at last, to protect the body of the Expedition under his 
 orders from every possible danger ? Should not Emin, in the face 
 of such risk, think of his own safety ? Was Emin expected to 
 sacrifice himself for people who had vilified and imprisoned Mm ? 
 
 " Frankness for frankness," I replied, " he had the full right to 
 expect the fulfilment of agreements, freely and reciprocally con- 
 tracted, and that it was his duty to watch over the welfare of the 
 Expedition entrusted to him." As to the duties and obligations of 
 the Governor, I differed from him, and considered Emin bound 
 by the act of submission which he had accepted on the 8th of 
 February, at Msua. 
 
 I concluded by saying it was a question of moral opinion. The 
 Pasha might, perhaps, look at it in a diftereut light. 
 
 Stanley then sent a message to Emin, begging him to come to us, 
 and when he arrived repeated to him the last questions asked me. 
 The Pasha decided that he was not obliged to keep the pledge 
 accepted at Msua, and that he had only accepted it as a means of 
 opening a way to get out of the I'rovince. 
 
 "You see," said Stanley to me, "that the Pasha speaks as I 
 expected. Now, what do you say to it T'
 
 392 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 " I have nothing to say," was my reply. " I do not change my 
 opinion. No one can |)revent your acting according to your own 
 will." 
 
 The joy of those who were in the camp at the news of the 
 decision voted by their companions of Wadelai was of short dura- 
 tion. The idea of their early departure filled them with grief, 
 which they did not attempt to conceal. Not being in the habit of 
 frequenting public meetings, and having led a retired life for some 
 time, far from the excitement of discussions and the danger of 
 opposing other people's opinions, one day the wish struck me to 
 know the impression made on the officers by the last decision, 
 more to satisfy my curiosity than from any interest I could possibly 
 take in them. Fortune favoured me before I tempted her, and the 
 morning after the conversation with Stanley, four of the ofiicers 
 came to pay me a visit. 
 
 " So we are to leave Kavalli without waiting for our companions 
 from Wadelai?" said one of them. 
 
 " If they choose to come, they can overtake us in a few days," I 
 replied to Lieutenant Ali Shambruk. 
 
 " It is impossible to do so in such a short time. The steamers 
 cannot carry so many people," said he. 
 
 " They can come by the route which skirts the lake. There is a 
 large body of them, and they are well armed. Have they cause to 
 fear the Melindwa and the Lur ?" 
 
 " That is true, I admit ; but when the soldiers learn the decision 
 adopted by Stanley and the Pasha they will be agitated by various 
 opinions, and the departure, thereby deferred, will be suspended 
 and then abandoned. Unprovided as our brethren are with ammu- 
 nition, they will one day become any easy prey to our enemies of 
 Khartoum, who have sworn our destruction, and more carnage will 
 be added to the disasters already suffered. The scene will be 
 horrible, like the end of the world. Who could describe that disas- 
 trous, frightful day ? ' They shall be dispersed like locusts.' " 
 
 " There you are, Ali, with your Koran, and uttering lamenta- 
 tions you do not feel, and maxims you do not practise. Speak on, 
 and I will answer you." 
 
 " He who knows the secrets of heaven and earth gave us the 
 Koran, and He is indulgent and merciful. But how is it that the 
 Pasha, who has assured us of so many things, and made us great 
 promises, does not care for us any longer ? " 
 
 " How can you be sure he has forgotten you ? " I asked. 
 " We can infer it from his behaviour. He said he would take 
 us all to Egypt, and then he starts with the smallest number. From 
 the time we came to this camp he has deprived us of his favour. 
 He has forgotten the beautiful saying of the Book : ' The believer 
 who has practised Ijenevolence will find a refuge in the garden of 
 delights.' "
 
 COMPLAINTS OF THE OFFICERS. 393 
 
 "Why do you allow yourself to become so depressed since 
 iStanley, as well as the Pasha, has the goodness to assist you, and 
 do everything to attain your end ? One thing is undeniable : 
 should the soldiers from Wadelai not hasten their arrival, we shall 
 be obliged to proceed on account of the famine which tlireatens us 
 liere," 
 
 " You are right. A few wicked j)eople have ruined the Province. 
 At Msua we confessed our error, and implored that it should be 
 forgiven and forgotten. And will he not pardon us ? God pardons 
 in His indulgence and mercy, and exacts from each one according 
 to his abilities." 
 
 " Not only has he pardoned you, but he has your fate at heart. 
 Certainly he cannot see with satisfaction the little care your 
 brethren have displayed in answering the call made to them. 
 Besides, he was obliged to give a definitive answer," I said. 
 
 " Lieutenant Ali has told you a good deal, but something still 
 remains to be said on the subject," added Osman to the Vice- 
 Go vernor. " Will you allow me to tell you what is in my mind ? 
 I do not pretend to give advice to the Pasha, nor to influence his 
 decisions in the slightest manner, but the rank with which I am 
 invested compels me to warn him of an event which is about to 
 happen." 
 
 '•' Speak, if you will, Osman, but I must tell you I do not mean 
 to meddle in your troubles," I said. 
 
 " Your are the friend of the Pasha, and after you have heard me 
 1 believe you will be inclined to tliink that I am right, and will com- 
 municate the matter to him, for his benefit as well as our own. 
 You know I have not ventured to speak to him for some time as I 
 used in former years," said Osman. 
 
 " Speak, speak ; but for goodness' sake do not give me another 
 lesson from tiie Koran. I know that you cannot engage in a 
 serious discussion without pointing your argument with verses 
 from the Prophet. But spare me as much as possible." 
 
 " You are joking with me, as usual. But it does not matter ; I 
 am not offended." 
 
 "' Bravo ! Bravo ! but fear not ; time, as it passes, leads us to 
 reflection. I am listening to you." 
 
 " Do not interrupt me, or destroy the thread of my ideas. ' By 
 the VMT horses which run swiftly to the tattle with a panting noise ; 
 and by those which strike fire, by dashing their hoofs against the 
 stones ; and by those which make a sudden incursion on the enemy 
 early in the morning, and therein raise dust, and therein pass 
 through the midst of the adverse troops ; verily man is ungrateful unto 
 his Lord.' * Patelmula and the other Wadelai mean treason — for 
 they are people of ungrateful heart and perverse mind. They 
 wish to come and fight us to take possession of the ammunition. 
 
 * Koran, chap. c. (Sale's translation).
 
 394 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 It is necessary to prevent this guilty design, to warn the Pasha, 
 and advise an early flight." 
 
 " Dear Vice-Governor, this is not my business, but yours. I 
 would never charge myself with such advice ; and allow me to tell 
 you that the accusation you insinuate is grave, and must be 
 corroborated by clear evidence. You know, as we all do, that 
 tliere is so much discord among the people in Wadelai, that any 
 treason, even scarcely meditated, would come to our knowledge. 
 And if, as there is no doubt, some bear malice and brood revenge, 
 leave their punishment to God. The wickedness of such beings 
 will not hurt us in the least." 
 
 " Just so ; and God Himself has promised it in His law with the 
 words : ' Verily, if the hypocrites, and those in whose hearts is .an 
 infirmity, and they who raise disturbances in Medina, do not 
 desist, we will surely stir thee up against them to chastise them. 
 Henceforth they shall not he suffered to dwell near thee therein, 
 except for a little time., and being accursed. Wherever they are 
 found they shall be taken, and killed with a rjeneral slaughter, 
 according to the sentence of God concerning those who have been 
 before ; and thou shalt not fmd any change in the sentence of 
 God.'"* 
 
 " Well, Osman, but remember that in the same chapter — it is 
 suggested to me by Captain Ibrahim Hellem — it is said : 'And 
 they who shall injure the true believers of either sex, without their 
 deserving it, shall surely bear the (jiiilt of calumny and a manifest 
 injustice.' " * 
 
 The man stood silent. He had spoken in fear of the arrival of 
 the othcers from Wadelai. The tranquillity which he now enjoyed 
 would be disturbed, if they came, by reason of the long series of 
 his former deceits. Osman Latif, now in Cairo, has forgotten his 
 habit of delivering ascetic lectures ; at that time he used to recite, 
 with sacrilegious imposture, a thousand and seventeen times a day 
 the chapter Samadia, that is, " The declaration of God's unity,' 
 which runs thus : "God is one God ; the eternal God ; He begetteth 
 not, neither is He begotten : and there is not any one like unto 
 Him." t 
 
 To the faithful, who daily practise this herculean labour of 
 prayer, it is given to behold in their dreams the seat assigned to 
 them in Paradise. 
 
 Major Hawashi and Captain Ibrahim Hellem were alarmed at 
 tlie thought that the decision taken might do them harm ; since 
 many of thuse with us would return to Wadelai. I encouraged 
 them, entreated them to tranquillise their minds, and to have 
 confidence in their Governor. 
 
 Captain Ibrahim Hellem enjoyed a great reputation for curing 
 headaches. His cure was performed by the liand. It consisted in 
 * Koran, chap, xxxiii. t Koran, chap. cxii.
 
 THE FATE OF IBRAHIM HELLEM. 395 
 
 binding the head with a ribbon, and tightening it with a drum- 
 stick and an iron key, until the measure of the perimeter reached 
 its supposed natural dimension. " The space measured from the 
 point of the nose to the nape of the neck in its normal condition," 
 said lie, " should correspond exactly to that round tlie head. But 
 each time that the pain attacks this region, there is an enlarge- 
 ment, and cure is obtained by reducing it to its normal size ; the 
 remedy would not be successful if the knot which secured the 
 ribbon was not tied with the left hand." 
 
 He was most desirous of seeing again his native country, which 
 he had left as an officer ; but his wishes unfortunately were not 
 fulfilled. Footsore and dragging himself along in pain, he followed 
 the caravan by long marches. But, one day, his strength failing 
 him, he was left behind at Kitega, in the territory of Nkole, with the 
 sole comfort of a letter to that chief, in the following terms : — 
 
 " I, Governor-General of the Equatorial Province, Mohammed 
 Emin Pasha, leave here Captain Ibrahim Effendi Hellem, also 
 Captain Abdul-Wahd Effendi, and Ibrahim Effendi Tahir, a clerk, 
 on account of sickness. 
 
 " I order you to give them the necessary nutriment, and should 
 a caravan pass which touches at the English mission of Mr. 
 Mackay, send them by it." 
 
 The chief into whose care those unfortunate men were given, and 
 who was to execute the written orders, was a Wahuma, in whose 
 fields we had gathered provisions without paying for them. 
 
 The strange remedy I have just mentioned reminds me of the 
 torture called by the Arabs tabatt, which was abolished in Egypt 
 by the Viceroy Ismail Pasha. Two bamboo canes applied to the 
 temples are tied tightly at their extremities, both behind and 
 before, with a cord. The agony of the torture is caused by beating 
 the anterior point of the apparatus with a small stick. The slow- 
 ness of the shock and the trembling which it occasions produces 
 such acute pain that it causes the victim to fall senseless. This 
 infamous mode of torture was applied to thiee Dervishes who had 
 carried Omar Saleh's letter (the commander of the Mahdi's forces) ; 
 but those intrepid fanatics, rather than reveal what had been 
 confided to them, with eyes bursting out of their sockets and 
 trembling limbs, continued faintly murmuring, " Bismillah il 
 Ilahman, il Rahihm, il haiiid Ila Bah il Alamin"* They were 
 then barbarously beaten to death with clubs by the infuriated 
 soldiery, when the Mahdist horde threatened Dufile. 
 
 in order to execute the plan which had been definitely decided 
 upon by Stanley, Captain Nelson left the camp on the morning of 
 March 29, 1 889, with orders that all who were then at the camp of 
 Were were to leave for Buguera. Stanley and the British officers 
 
 * lu the name of God ; God is merciful. Thanks be to God ; God is omni- 
 potent.
 
 3y6 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 considered that their most important and only mission was the 
 liberation of Emin. Being anxious about the condition of 
 Equatoria after the late events that had disturbed it, they had 
 determined to abandon the soldiers to their fate, and return. 
 
 Suspicion and mistrust were roused in Stanley's mind by some 
 Egyptian officers, the chief amongst whom was Osman Latif, who 
 continually insisted on the dangers that would be created by the 
 arrival of the Wadelai people in the camp. 
 
 According to him, they had conspired to ruin the Expedition, to 
 arrest the Pasha, and to commit any crimes, if necessary, in order 
 to obtain the ammunition which was at Buguera. 
 
 Osman Latif was supported in this infamous work by Major 
 Hawashi's suggestions, who, being aware of the general hatred that 
 he had aroused in a few years, through arbitrary abuse of power, 
 shuddered at the mere thought of contact with his numerous victims 
 during the journey. The reports of Stanley's faithful servant, 
 Saleh, entirely supported Osman's insinuations, being inspired by a 
 certain Ahmed, a wretched creature of abject habits and a vile 
 mind. 
 
 The grief of Emin's followers at seeing their companions aban- 
 doned, the murmurs at the delusion they had been under, and their 
 openly declared intention of retuiming to Wadelai, were repre- 
 sented as pretences for carrying out guilty designs and wicked 
 intentions. 
 
 Emin hesitated. On the one hand, he seemed desirous of placing 
 some distance between himself and the people of Wadelai ; on the 
 other, a certain amount of shame overcame him on account of his 
 diminished authority, on finding himself at the mercy of the British, 
 and obliged to follow them as a trophy of victory. He did not daie 
 to lend an ear to his people's complaints, as he was afraid of causing 
 trouble by personally inquiring into the state of their minds. He 
 received petitions and sent advices through an intern) ediary, but 
 thus, instead of simplifying difficulties, he complicated them. 
 
 Stanley was indignant. The information he received made him 
 doubtful as to the Pasha's intentions, and a few angry words about 
 the latter betrayed his impatience. The news that the evacuation 
 of Wadelai was about to become an accomplished fact stung him 
 to the quick ; he determined to put an end to further delay. The 
 cunning excuses, ambiguous expressions, and predictions of inevit- 
 able danger had strangely impressed him, prone as he always was 
 to suspicion. 
 
 On the morning of April 5, 1889, after giving some directions, 
 he went to Emin's house, and, making him promise not to repeat 
 a word of what he was going to say, he told him distinctly that an 
 attempt had been made during the night to steal some guns from 
 the huts of the Zanzibaris. 
 
 " A conspiracy is going on here against me," said he ; " plots are
 
 STANLEY URGES THEIR DEPARTURE. 397 
 
 being concocted against the Expedition. I know that a refusal 
 will be made to the resolution of departure." 
 
 " I do not know," replied the Pasha, " to what you allude. I do 
 not think that any one would be so wicked as to dare act as you 
 have been made believe." 
 
 '•■ Do not let us evade the question, Pasha ; that is not my habit. 
 I have two proposals to make to you ; it is for you to choose, and 
 that without delay. To-morrow morning I mean to make the round 
 of my Zanzibaris and to tell them of our immediate departure. In 
 case of any resistance or attempt at refusal, I am prepared to use 
 force, and then start with you and the few who remain faithful to 
 you. Should these strong measures not suit you, then I propose 
 that you should start with a trustworthy escort at once, unknown 
 to every one ; I would soon rejoin you. Choose, Pasha ; decide." 
 
 " I cannot accede to your proposals. The first I will not dis- 
 cuss ; as for the second, you will understand that I cannot abandon 
 Casati, Vita, and Marco." 
 
 " Do not think of them. As soon as I have encamped in a 
 favourable position, I shall come and take them (by force if neces- 
 sary) from the hands of the Egyptians." 
 
 " But I do not think there will be any necessity for employing 
 such means. We shall depart on the 10th." 
 
 Stanley's anger rose to its highest pitch. He stamped his foot 
 upon the ground, and said in a convulsed voice : 
 
 " . . . . ! I leave you to God, and the blood which will now 
 flow must fall upon your own head ! " 
 
 He rushed out and whistled the signal of alarm, and entered 
 his tent, leaving it again almost immediately, gun in hand and his 
 cartridge pouch on his belt. 
 
 The Zanzibaris assembled in the square, part occupying the exit 
 of the camp ; the tents were taken down, exposing heaps of mer- 
 chandise and cases of ammunition. From the door of my house I 
 could observe an unusual bustle of armed men. I thought it 
 meant a drill to prepare them for the approaching departure. I 
 asked some of the passers-by, but none knew the reason of the 
 commotion. I sent my boy to ask Emin, and he quickly returned 
 telling me that the Pasha was making preparations for an imme- 
 diate departure. 
 
 I went to see the Pasha ; he was pale with rage and indigna- 
 tion. 
 
 " We are going," said he to me with a trembling voice. " To- 
 day, for the first time in my life, I have been covered with insults. 
 Stanley has passed every limit of courtesy, but I have promised 
 not to speak, so can say no more." 
 
 The Pasha was under the incubus of dreading to see the first 
 of the proposals made to him carried out at any moment. In 
 the meantime, Emin's officers, employes, soldiers, and servants,
 
 398 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 were assembled in tlie square, stupefied by the great agitation — a 
 sure sign of some calamity. Emin and I arrived at last. 
 
 "If you have the courage, point your guns at my breast," cried 
 Stanley, addressing them. " I am here alone and unarmed." 
 
 l>lind fury made him forget that lie held a Winchester rifle in 
 his hand, and that there was a wall of about a hundred armed 
 Zanzibaris behind him. 
 
 " My orders alone are to be obeyed here, and whoever resists I 
 will kill him with this gun, and trample him under my feet. 
 Whoever intends to start and follov/ me, let him pass to this 
 side." 
 
 In a moment every one moved, and all was changed ; the terrible 
 conspirators became as quiet as lambs. The reputed chiefs of the 
 opposition, being called into Stanley's presence, were ordered to be 
 disarmed and cast into prison. 
 
 " Will you start with me ? " he said. 
 
 " Yes," they all answered. 
 
 " Will you obey my orders implicitly ? " 
 
 " Yes, we promise," they hastened to say, simultaneously. 
 
 " I will conduct you to safety, and will supply your needs 
 during the journey. You have my promise ; but I warn you that, as 
 sure as my name is Stanley, I shall not tolerate any renewal of the 
 disturbances of Dufile or Wadelai. Bear in mind that the depar- 
 ture is irrevocably fixed for the 10th." 
 
 From that day the encampment had the appearance of a village 
 which had been placed under martial law. The guards were 
 doubled, patrols were continually on the move during the night, 
 all were forbidden to leave their dwellings under pain of being 
 placed under arrest. Those present in camp, inscribed after a 
 general muster, were 350 people of the Eelief Expedition, of whom 
 294 were armed, and 570 from the Province of Equatoria. 
 
 An inspection of the arms belonging to these, made by Stanley, 
 which Emin declined to witness, gave the numerical result of only 
 40 guns ! 
 
 Differing in origin, language, and customs, the Soudanese and 
 Zanzibaris, who composed the caravan, apparently maintained cordial 
 intercourse among themselves ; but in reality it was preserved only 
 by the innate thoughtlessness of the Negro race, not by any other 
 sentiment, and they were ever on the look-out for any circumstance 
 which might cause an outburst of their latent mutual jealousy. 
 
 One morning it happened that some thoughtless Zanzibaris, 
 standing near the river which bounded the camp, spoke disrespect- 
 fully of the wife of a certain Omar (commander of the soldiers) 
 who had joined the Expedition at Cairo. 
 
 The Sliillook, a strong, passionate man, armed with a knotted 
 club, was about to avenge the oflence ; but scarcely had he fallen 
 upon the insolent offenders than he was surrounded by a number
 
 A QUARREL IN THE CAMP. 399 
 
 of their friends. He did not lose his presence of mind ; whirling 
 his club he inflicted some crushing blows on them, which laid low 
 three of the most daring, and wounded one of them rather seriously 
 in the head. 
 
 The news of the unequal conquest spread throughout the camp 
 like lightning; and soldiers and servants, quickly arming them- 
 selves with sticks, ruslied to the spot to defend their countrymen. 
 The affair was becoming serious, when Stanley fortunately ap- 
 peared and put an end to the quarrel. 
 
 At daybreak on April 10, 1889, the well-known whistle was 
 heard ; the signal for departure. Stanley kept his word ; the caravan 
 fell into marching order, and at seven o'clock began to move, 
 leaving behind it a dense black column of smoke and the crackling 
 flames of the burning camp. The road ran in a south-westerly 
 direction, over grassy hills, with few trees, separated from one 
 another by streams flowing into the Ituri. The monotonous aspect 
 in the small valleys was only broken by some palm-trees. The 
 country is inhabited by agricultural labourers and shepherds, who 
 dwell in the villages of Sagwa and Mbuti or in huts scattered on 
 the slopes of the hills. Tlie fields are cultivated with Indian 
 millet, sweet potatoes {Batata cdulis), and beans. 
 
 The march proceeded with tolerable regularity, considering that 
 the majority were unaccustomed to such fatigue, and that there 
 was so many children. At one o'clock we arrived at Katenta, the 
 residence of Mpinga, chief of the tribe of Wahuma Wavitu. During 
 the night heavy rain and strong wind inconvenienced the less 
 favoured ones who were encamped in the open, outside the village. 
 
 On April 12, 1889, with the assistance of a limited number of 
 porters, supplied by Mpinga, who, during the march, tlirew down 
 their loads and fled, we covered, in about six hours, the ten miles 
 which separated us from Niangabo, the residence of chief Mazam- 
 boni, where we encamped, near the shore of the river Tarara, close 
 to the mountain. 
 
 The first part of the road is a plain covered with grass and 
 Lushes, but after passing the river near the village of Miro, there 
 are high plateaux, cultivated with Indian millet, bananas, sweet 
 potatoes, and beans, scattered here and there, with villages and 
 numbers of huts. The frequent rivulets, with sandy beds and 
 slightly sloping banks, contain good and limpid water. The 
 country is rich in cattle ; the population is of the Wahuma Ygivioa 
 tribe. 
 
 The measures adopted by Stanley to suppress the disaffection 
 which prevailed in the camp at Buguera, the burning of the village 
 upon his departure, the persuasion that they were abandoning the 
 people of Wadelai, had excited anger and grief in the minds of the 
 soldiers and servants. However, they gave no expression to them 
 as long as they were at Buguera, for fear of incurring punishment ;
 
 400 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 l)ut once at Niangabo, relying upon the long distance which sepa- 
 rated that place from AVere, they determined to return, and the very 
 evening of our arrival sixty-nine soldiers and servants, eluding the 
 vi'jilance of the sentries, took to flight. The fact alarmed the 
 officers, and one of the most zealous, being told that others intended 
 to follow their example, informed Emin, who, on purpose to stop 
 the fatal current, acted without delay. That same evening, althougli 
 it was late, he assembled his people and warned them of their 
 danger ; disarmed several soldiers and servants whom he suspected, 
 among the latter being four of his own household. 
 
 On the following morning, April 27, 1889, the officers met in 
 council, and, assisted by Lieutenant Stairs, began an inquiry into 
 the plot which threatened the integrity and safety of the caravan. 
 The tribunal laboured patiently for several hours. They inteiTO- 
 gated, investigated, and threatened, and at last, about 2 p.m., found 
 that four of the Pasha's servants, a Negro, formerly in the service 
 of a non-commissioned officer who was dead, and two others who 
 were employed at a clerk's house, had combined to escape to 
 AVadelai. They had been alarmed and led astray by the accounts 
 which a certain Eehan (a youth whom Stanley had taken with him 
 upon his return after the first meeting with Emin) had given of the 
 sufferings endured on the road to Yambuya ; but the youth had 
 disappeared during the night, consequently it was impossible to 
 make him a scapegoat. The meeting adjourned for two hours, and 
 was then resumed to discuss the punishments which ought to be 
 inflicted upon the seven intending deserters. After having suc- 
 cessively proposed and abandoned shooting, imprisonment in chains, 
 extra hard work on the march, or to be handed over to the mission- 
 aries, it was decided at sunset that they should receive a few strokes 
 with the lash. Six hours' work had softened the judges' hearts, 
 The scarcity of porters for service on the journey, and the improba- 
 bility of procuring assistance from the native chiefs, made it 
 advisal)le, however grievous it might be, to use force in a country 
 where the rule of paid service could not be applied. Necessity 
 has its own laws, and the preservation of one's life is a law of 
 Nature. We had to employ force to retain it. 
 
 Several raids with this object were attempted ; they met with 
 but little success, owing to orders having been given to prevent 
 the capture of Negroes being attended by fatal results. One of 
 these excursions was made in a north-westerly direction, four 
 hours' journey from Niangabo, in the territory of the Jongolo, 
 inhabited by Vavra, under chief Ndinda, whose authority extended 
 over the villages of Tendiabro, Nsabaco, Muninga, Muicu, and 
 Manzoca. The country is crossed by a river of some importance, 
 the Mbagungue, which flows into the Ituri. In the adjacent 
 country of Kumbiere there was a colony of Wahuma, whose chief 
 was called Kise.
 
 STANLEY'S ILLNESS. 401 
 
 A few days after our arrival at Niangabo, Stanley was taken 
 seriously ill. The care taken of him by good Dr. Parke, added to 
 that of Emin, soon overcame the violence of the attack, but his 
 weakness was so great that it prevented a speedy renewal of the 
 journey. We therefore had to prolong our stay at Niangabo, and, 
 owing to the scarcity of provisions, we were obliged to resort to 
 compulsory requisitions, which were usually made on the property 
 of chiefs who did not recognise the authority of Mazamboni. In 
 theso raids Stanley strictly forbade the use of violence, maltreat- 
 ment of the natives, and the stealing of bullocks and goats ; corn, 
 bananas, beans, tobacco, and poultry were the only kind of food 
 they were permitted to take. 
 
 Frequent rains and the unfavourable condition of the place, 
 daily increased the number of those attacked by fever and 
 rheumatism. The neighbourhood was searched in order to find a 
 healthier locality, but scarcity of water proved to be the obstacle 
 to our selecting a place for encampment which ofiered more 
 favourable surroundings ; and, as if our daily troubles did not 
 suffice, on the evening of April 30, 1889, a hurricane from the 
 east burst over the camp, accompanied, by thunder and lightning, 
 and torrents of rain. Most of the huts were overturned and de- 
 stroyed. The morning found us shivering with cold, and crouch- 
 ing in the spots least exposed to the fury of the tempest. 
 
 The cases of ammunition which Stanley had received in Egypt 
 for consignment to the Government of Equatoria, and which had 
 been saved from the misfortunes that had. befallen the Expedi- 
 tion, amounted to sixty-two. In view of the perils which he 
 imagined he might encounter at the hands of the soldiers of the 
 Province, he had not chosen to give any to the people of Wade- 
 lai ; and Emin, who had always yielded to Stanley's wishes, had 
 not dared to mention them for fear of awaking fresh quarrels, even 
 when it was decided to abandon the soldiers of Wadelai, to which 
 he had assented ; it must have pained him to know that they were 
 unprovided with the means of defence, and thrown on the mercy 
 of the Mahdists and natives. 
 
 The absolute impossibility of procuring porters there, obliged the 
 chief of the Expedition to abandon some of the cases of ammunition, 
 and he simply ordered that those exceeding the number of avail- 
 able porters should be buried, and Lieutenant Stairs saw that this 
 was done with great precaution during the night of the 29th. 
 
 The flight of the servants did not cease, but, in spite of the 
 watchfulness which was exercised, proceeded at intervals. 
 
 The officers, alarmed at the condition to which they were re- 
 duced by these desertions, went to Stanley, begging him to allow 
 them to send an armed expedition to Were to try and arrest 
 the fugitives. He complied with their request, and also con- 
 sented that thirty armed Zanzibaris should go with the Egyptian 
 
 2 c
 
 402 TEN YEARS IN EQUATOIUA. 
 
 soldiers tinder the command of Captain Shukri. , Early on May 1, 
 1889, they returned from the lake, bringincr with them nine of 
 the fugitives, among whom was Rehan, the youth who had 
 roused the fears of his friends by relating to them his sufferings 
 on the road of the Aruwimi. 
 
 The exceedingly lenient sentence which had been pronounced 
 on the 27th did not please Stanley, and, to avert the danger of its 
 repetition, it was thought necessary to strengthen his authority by 
 an act of terror which would put an end to all further attempts at 
 injuring the compactness of the caravan. 
 
 Having assembled the Zanzibaris, he appeared before them, fol- 
 lowed by the English officers, and ordered Rehan to be brought 
 forward, declaring that he deserved to be condemned to death. 
 Although he had already received the sanction of his officers, he 
 asked the approval of the Zanzibaris, which was clamorously 
 given. 
 
 Young Eehan was hanged to a tree, and his body exposed till 
 the next day as a salutary example. It was then cut down, thrown 
 amongst the grass, and left as food for the hyenas and vultures.
 
 ( 403 ) 
 
 CHAPTER XXXII. 
 
 THE VIRIKA MOUNTAINS. 
 
 Marching order of the caravan — Toil — Diseases — Hard treatment— Slighted com- 
 plaints—The little Amina— Departure fromNiano^abo— At Joddo—Sehm Bey's 
 letter — The reply — At Biihogo — The attack of King Chua's banassura—The 
 brave Oakil killed on the battle-field^Unlucky youth ! — His tomb — The land 
 before us — Western route — The study of the White Mountains—The SemUki 
 river — Crossing of the stream — The Wamba country — The Bassua — At the 
 foot of the Virika — Sanitary conditions of the caravan — Clerk Wassif — A 
 horrible thing to relate — Fighting the Manyema — Lieutenant Stairs's explora- 
 tion — Karalla, a servant, killed by the Vakongio with their lances — New vic- 
 tims—Stanley arms the servants to guard the caravan — Discontent augments — 
 Exit from the forest — The Usongora — -The sun shines on the Virika peaks — 
 Lake Ruitan — The salt lake — King Chua's power — Salt trade — At Amkongo — 
 Attack by the soldiers of the King of Unyoro — Return to Unyampaka — 
 Moral and material conditions of the caravan — Abundance of food — Routes 
 from Unyampaka — Selection of the route through Nkole. 
 
 The formation of the caravan for the journey had been determined 
 in the following order : — 
 
 The march was opened by Stanley, preceded by a vanguard of 
 Zanzibaris with native guides ; the company under Jephson's 
 command followed ; then Emin with his people, escorted by another 
 company. The families of the officials, servants, carriers, and the 
 Manyema, enrolled at Yambuya, were in the rear. The long 
 column was protected by a company who served as the rear-guard, 
 under the alternate command of Captain Nelson and Lieutenant 
 Stairs. 
 
 The march began at sunrise, and was continued until eleven 
 o'clock A.M., without halts. Generally in that lapse of time, and 
 often before it ended, the head of the caravan had reached the 
 place where we were to pass the night ; but the greater part of the 
 people — the porters especially — used to drop in by groups, or 
 singly, so that the camp could not be said to be complete till three 
 or four in the afternoon. The nature of the route — the difficulties 
 of mountain passes — the slackening of the pace — and the necessity 
 of short stoppages for the porters to rest — soon lengthened the 
 column, in which long intervals were to be seen, breaking the 
 compactness of the march. Later, either on account of the con- 
 tinual fatigues or the hardships of the route, frequent cases of fever 
 occurred in the ranks, and many, especially the Egyptians, were 
 afflcted with painfvil sores on their feet. The assiduous cares of
 
 404 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 Dr. Parke, always ready and courteous, were not sufficient to meet 
 the requirements ; sick people from time to time begged for some 
 days' rest; tlie Pasha used to advise them to apply to Stanley, and 
 he, in his turn (wishing to decline any responsibility towards 
 people who were not under his direct authority) asked Emin for 
 advice — whose decision always was that, a few days being insuffi- 
 cient to ensure recovery, the best thing to do was to continue the 
 journey. And those poor suffering creatures dragged themselves 
 along, cursing in their heart the moment in which they had 
 listened to the promising offer of relief. 
 
 It was a daily occurrence for people to fall and be abandoned on 
 the road, or to go astray ; and every day the losses we sustained 
 increased the labour of the survivors. The employes frequently 
 complained of having been insulted, while servants showed the 
 marks of strokes of the stick which had been inflicted upon them, 
 and, lamenting, threw their loads in the grass. The British officers 
 alleged their duty of attending to the speed of the march, of urging 
 on the stragglers, and their right to use coercive means against the 
 indifference and insolence of warned offenders. To this painful 
 daily occurrence was added the disdainful and insulting behaviour 
 of the Zanzibaris, who also believed themselves authorised to 
 assume the character of liberators and to commit any act of 
 oppression they pleased. 
 
 Complaints made to Stanley were not always unattended to, but, 
 on account of his prejudiced mind, he generally limited himself to 
 mere recommendations, and never took any preventive measure. 
 Emin, for a mere show of authority, used to order the cases to be 
 most minutely investigated. 
 
 In the allotment of carriers, Stanley favoured me with three 
 Manyema, one of whom I gave up that he might carry the little 
 Amina. 
 
 This girl was born in Juaya, in Unyoro, of a woman then in my 
 service. I took great interest in her, from a charitable feeling, as 
 well as in opposition to the wishes of some people, who would 
 have rejoiced at the abandonment of both mother and child. Two 
 years afterwards latent malevolence succeeded in obtaining a 
 sentence in accordance with the Koran, by which the guardianship 
 of the little one devolved on the Government, as it could not be 
 entrusted to a Christian. 
 
 I took no notice of the strange order, but continued my protec- 
 tion to the child, thus enabling her and her mother to overcome 
 the hardships of the journey and be saved. 
 
 On j\Iay 8, we left the camp of Niangabo, and followed west- 
 wards the outskirts of the range of mountains rising behind us ; we 
 then turned to the south, on slightly elevated spurs of the chain, 
 and reached Joddo, a territory inhabited by the Walegga and ruled 
 by chief Kabonga.
 
 CASATPS PROTEGEE. 
 
 -1^5 
 
 We were there overtaken by Ayoub, a clerk, who brought a 
 letter from Selini Bey. In it, after having announced the con- 
 
 LITTLE ASIIXA. 
 
 centration at Msua of the soldiers and otficials who intended to 
 leave the country, he added : —
 
 4o6 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 We have no ammunition, having been obliged to leave almost all of 
 it to the soldiers who have remained at Wadelai with Captain Fatelmula ; 
 the natives may overwhelm us during the journey ; pray stop and wait 
 for us. If you do not, and a misfortune happens, Pasha, you will have 
 to account for it before God. 
 
 The abandonment of those who begged for help was decided on,, 
 nevertheless. A letter was written to them, alleging the impossi- 
 bility of waiting, and begging them to hasten their airival, as the 
 caravan would stop several days at Mount Virika, and also at 
 Lake Euitan. By steep and fatiguing slopes, ascending continually 
 to higher altitudes, and passing through Bujungue and Vochumbe,. 
 we arrived at Buhogo, May 11, on the line of waterparting between 
 the Ituri and Semliki rivers. It is peopled by Walegga, who, as a 
 matter of habit, do not live in large villages, but in groups of huts 
 by families. The country is rich in Indian millet, bananas, and 
 beans; colocynth is much cultivated in fields, and there grows- 
 also a kind of tobacco, much appreciated for its flavour. 
 
 We were on the confines of Mboga's territory, at a short distance 
 from our deadly enemy ; the hanassura of the King of Unyoro 
 awaited us. One hour had scarcely elapsed after our arrival when 
 we heard repeated reports of guns close to our camp. The alarm 
 was given, but only a few young men responded to it, the greater 
 part of the people having gone in search of provisions. Never- 
 theless those few youths courageously seized their rifles, and 
 hurried down the hill. The number of combatants soon increased \ 
 but the sound of shots, gradually growing more distant, became 
 less frequent, and at last ceased. At sunset four young Soudanese 
 ascended the hill, carrying a corpse, that of my brave boy, Oakil^ 
 who had been shot in the forehead. Having started among the 
 first, he began with them the combat which ended in the enemy's 
 defeat ; but in the rush of pursuit, and with his youthful contempt 
 for danger, he did not perceive the deadly gun aimed at him from 
 behind a rock. His distressed friends showed their grief for his 
 loss with the respect due to heroism. 
 
 In the camp, regret was general, for he had known how to- 
 acquire the esteem and affection of all. Unhappy youth ! Picked 
 up by Gessi, and entrusted by him to my care when he left for 
 Khartoum, he had grown up at my side, and had been a faithful 
 and affectionate companion in my excursions. 
 
 At the time of his death he was about sixteen years of age. He 
 had become a fine, tall, agile fellow — intelligent, loyal and brave. 
 In tlie Mege country, when a child, he had given proofs of the 
 firmness of his character when I had to suffer from Azanga's vexa- 
 tions. In after-times, during the troubles we underwent in 
 Unyora, he did not belie his good qualities. A good hunter, a dili- 
 gent keeper of everything that was in the house, untiring on the
 
 DEATH OF OAKIL. 407 
 
 march, with a knowledge of dialects, which he easily learned, he 
 had rendered great and continual services to me. His grave was 
 dug close to a group of wild date and palm trees ; it was carefully 
 filled up and covered in order to prevent its discovery by King 
 Chua's soldiers, who, having perhaps recognised the fallen boy, 
 might have attempted to carry his head to our old persecutor. 
 
 On the following morning, when I was shown the spot where he 
 had been killed, and saw the blood-stained ground, I felt much 
 grieved. My remembrance of him is still vivid, both from affec- 
 tion and gratitude. 
 
 The configuration of the land extending before us was no longer 
 doubtful. The river flowing in the valley was the Semliki ; embanked 
 between mountains, it forms the connecting link of Lakes Ruitan 
 and Albert, as the good Kategora had told me, in Unyoro. Beyond 
 the river the mountains rise to the height of the Virika, in a 
 comparatively small space. It was obvious, therefore, that, if we 
 crossed the river into the territory of Mboga, we should put our- 
 selves on the way to a difficult region, on account of the numerous 
 spurs of the range of mountains, the many rivers enclosed in the 
 deep valleys, and the woody nature of the country. 
 
 The western range did not present such obstacles, either in the 
 altitude of the peaks of its lesser chains, or from the nature of the 
 soil, mostly covered by grass and without forests of any extent. 
 Had we, therefore, pursued our march through the Walegga land, 
 we should have been able to cross the river Semliki at a more 
 southern point in the Usongora district, and by a less uncom- 
 fortable route, without being exposed to the danger of attacks from 
 the hanassura of Unyoro. But at Kavalli, when the white 
 summits of the mountain excited curiosity and the desire for 
 observation, the ascent of the Virika was discussed as an essential 
 point for the choice of the route to be followed. Afterwards, 
 when the danger was perceived of the caravan being overtaken by 
 Selim Bey and his soldiers, this itinerary was preferred. 
 
 " When I shall have put between me and them," said Stanley, 
 " such a series of obstacles, the Expedition will have no longer any 
 cause to fear." 
 
 We therefore went down to the Semliki, where the gunshots of 
 our implacable enemies received us, and on May 17, 1889, they 
 daringly attempted an assault on the camp. 
 
 The river, which is named Malemba, at its outflow from Lake 
 Euitan, is called Ngazi all through the Naunga country, and has 
 the name of Semliki when it falls into Lake Albert. At Wamba, 
 where the caravan ferried it, it is 200 feet wide (60 metres) and 10 
 feet deep (3 metres). The passage was made in boats seized from 
 the natives. 
 
 The spot is picturesque. The flowing river forms an ample 
 curve ; on its eastern bank the land gradually rises from a swamp ;
 
 4o8 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 on the western side a grove of Cucifera thcbaica contrasts with the 
 dark thick forest of Katanda, which covers the hilly land. 
 
 We entered the Wamba country ; the natives fled at our 
 approach. In the thick of the forest we came across villages of 
 pigmies, with huts in the shape of skull caps. In some of them 
 we saw smaller ones, the size of a hamper, destined for the use of 
 children. These little people, called Bassua by the Walegga, from 
 time to time annoyed our people with their arrows, on their way to 
 fetch water ; but they were paid off for their audacity by three of 
 the most daring being shot. At this point the road runs through 
 swampy woods ; the ground then rises little by little, and on the 
 sixth day of our march, when we reached the village of Vugorama, 
 on the borders of the Wamba region, we were 575 feet (175 
 metres) above the level of the Semliki river. On May 28, 1889, 
 we were still in the forest. The road was fatiguing, with steep 
 ascents and precipitous declivities ; there were rivers with violent 
 currents and very cold waters ; and, as we could not get a guide, 
 we were compelled to make great circuits in order to look for an 
 exit. On the 5th of June we reached the Msucali village, in the 
 country of the Vakongio, which is situated on a narrow elongated 
 neck of land, at the foot of the high peak of the Virika, flanked by 
 horrible precipices. We were at an altitude of 3513 feet (1071 
 metres) above the level of the sea. Our sufferings were very great ; 
 the number of people with sore feet and legs was on the increase ; the 
 fatigue of the march prostrated many ; the clerk Wassif died on the 
 road. An Egyptian soldier, Hamidan, seized with fever and unable 
 to march on, was maltreated by the Zanzibaris of the rear-guard. 
 Blinded by anger and pain, he thew his own child away into the 
 grass — an infamous deed, that no one prevented by taking up the 
 innocent creature. Near Bwasse, by mistake, a serious fight was 
 begun against a column of Manyema searching for ivory. When 
 the two parties recognised each other there were six of ours 
 wounded, and of the supposed enemies one killed and five wounded. 
 On the night of the 8th of June, the Vakongio, having stealthily 
 approached our camp, killed, with their lances, Karalla, one of 
 Emin's servants, who, relying upon the tranquillity in which the 
 natives bad left us. and quite certain of his safety, fell asleep at a 
 distance, out of sight of the guard. 
 
 On the some day Lieutenant Stairs returned from exploring the 
 Virika peaks. Dense woods, intricate and inacessible precipices, 
 prevented him from reaching a higher point than 1 0,683 feet (3256 
 metres) above the level of the sea. He brought back with him 
 some plants gathered on the mountain, among which were the 
 Erica arhorea and a Vaccinmm. The great mountain, therefore, 
 still holds its mystery, and the several conjectures existing about 
 it make it desirable that a scientific exploration should rend the 
 veil. The hopes conceived at Kavalli failed.
 
 THE SERVANTS ARMED. 409 
 
 From plateau to plateau, and still in the forest, we arrrived, on 
 the 10th of June, at a small village of Saura, where the natives 
 greeted us with arrows. Of these men one was killed and several 
 captured ; the chief then hastened to submit to us. As on the 
 11th, Mabu, a Soudanese, was abondoned on the road, so on the 
 12th Havari, an Egyptian, was forsaken at the camp, being unable 
 to pursue the journey owing to large sores on his feet and legs. 
 
 Stanley was informed at Muchora of the presence in Usongora 
 of many of King Chua's hanassvra. As a precaution against 
 attacks along the road, he ordered all servants, armed with guns, 
 to join the rear-guard with the Zanzibaris and the Manyema. 
 This arrangement caused great resentment in the people of the 
 caravan, who wanted their own servants for the carriage of their 
 effects and children and to attend to their own sick. 
 
 Emin, when he saw himself deprived of six armed servants, 
 went to complain about it to Stanley, who received him brusquely, 
 and threw upon him the responsibility for the misfortunes which at 
 every place befell the Expedition. 
 
 The Pasha withdrew, and Stanley, as if to give vent to his anger, 
 ordered Hassan, Marco the Greek, and the clerk Basili to be 
 arrested and brought before him by an escort of soldiers, for non- 
 compliance with the orders received ; hence threats, shouts, and 
 fresh discontent arose. 
 
 On the 14th we left the Ukougio territory, and with it the 
 forest. Before us lay a vast plain rich in vegetation, and enlivened 
 by frequent villages. Boundless to the south, the plain was cut 
 on the west by the course of the Semliki, beyond which rises the 
 range of the Walegga mountains. It is the Usongora district, the 
 region of the Euitan Lake. We all felt happier, as the lake was 
 our long-wished-for aim, where we should have a rest. Leaving 
 the mountains, we descended the spurs of the range, and, winding 
 round the curve of the hills, we reached Kiambali, inhabited by 
 the Wahuma people. But the difficult and wearisome road, broken 
 by the rocks and stones of the mountain, demanded its victims in 
 the persons of a clerk, an Egyptian soldier, and some women and 
 children, who fell exhausted, never to return among us. 
 
 Who cared for them ? 
 
 Helplessness may compel abandonment, but does not diminish 
 its horrors. Sad events of the kind were so frequent that people 
 grew" indifferent to them, and the strong ones saluted with joy the 
 sun already gilding the white crests of the Yirika, shining in the 
 far distance. 
 
 On the 17th we reached Katua, at 2920 feet (S90 metres) above 
 the level of the sea, and from thence beheld one of the branches 
 of Lake Ruitan. 
 
 The surrounding country is covered with short grass, and 
 scattered about are many trees of Ev/pliorhia candelabra. The lake
 
 4IO TEN YEARS IN EQUATOR I A. 
 
 liiis two small and hilly islands at a short distance apart ; its 
 N\aters are very much like those of the Albert Lake in colour and 
 laste. It is 82 feet (25 metres) below the altitude of Katua. 
 
 The small lake Kio, not far off towards the north, has salt waters 
 of a carmine red colour ; its circumference is about 2| miles 
 (4 kilometres), and is situated about 147 feet (45 metres) below 
 Katua. 
 
 Beautiful saline crystals are to be found in the deposit of the 
 water, and are the object of an active trade in the country and 
 surrounding lands. The shores, which rise several feet above the 
 surface of the water, are covered with plants, Euphorhia candelabra 
 and Palma Fluenrx. The possession of so rich a country has 
 always been jealously desired by the neighbouring potentates, the 
 Kings of Uganda, TJnyoro, and Nkole. King Chua's lanassura 
 have often tried to settle in the region of the lake, but have always 
 been driven away by the troops of Uganda. Owing to the sad 
 condition of King Muanga's domains, caused by internal dissen- 
 sions, the King of Unyoro was enabled easily to consolidate his 
 dominion over Torn, Mruli, and Usongora. He also tried to make 
 the Nkole country tributary, but, after having been discomfited 
 several times, he gave up the idea, and confined himself to raids 
 for cattle. A large trade in salt is carried on in the territory, and 
 is extended as far as Kitaguenda, Uganda, Nkole, and Mporuru, 
 where this product finds an easy sale. 
 
 The boats being insufficient to ferry the whole caravan over the 
 lake (June 20), we were obliged to reach the eastern shore by 
 reascending to the north-east in order to avoid the extensive 
 swamps and marshy ground. We journeyed over an ample plain, 
 arid and without water, where no trees grew, except a few 
 E'Uijhorhia and Mimosa. Only near cowsheds are found pools of 
 water ; they have a greenish surface, are disgusting to the palate, 
 and are met at a certain distance from each other as far as 
 Amkongo, a village on the eastern branch of the lake, opposite the 
 Irangara Island. That tiresome march was prolonged to a length 
 of about 18i miles (30 kilometres). 
 
 In order to go from the Unyampaka territory to the eastern 
 shore of the second branch of the lake, we had to pass through the 
 Mruli and Torn districts, under the direct domination of King 
 Chua, whose troops laid ambushes for the column in three different 
 places. The attack on the 22nd of June, at the passage of the 
 river Unyamwambi, had it been vigorously carried out, might have 
 been fatal to the caravan. 
 
 Whilst we were issuing from the Kitindi forest, on the 26th, the 
 lanassura attempted to divide the column, but they were repulsed 
 by the timely coming up and energetic counteraction of Captain 
 Shukri with the Soudanese of the rear-guard. This attack proved 
 of no consequence whatever.
 
 ARRI VAL A T LAKE R UITAN. 4 1 1 
 
 On the 28th of the same month the King of Unyoro's soldiers 
 assailed us at our exit from their territory on the Euroi river, but 
 the result was as harmless as a salute. On the 29th of June we 
 passed through a strip of Unyampaka's territory, and crossed over 
 the river Eoali, about 66 feet (20 metres) wide, with a rapid torrent 
 amongst rocks and stones, and arrived at Bukorongo, on the 
 eastern coast of the Euitan, on the first day of July, 1889. 
 
 The lake here is imposing from the depth and extent of its 
 mass of water. The shore is gaily dotted over with villages and 
 huts, surrounded by groves of banana-trees, with fields of maize 
 and beans. The Wahuma people possess plenty of cows and 
 goats. The journey from Kavalli to the eastern shore of Lake 
 Euitan was completed in thirty-five days' march. Neither the 
 roughness of the countries crossed, nor the harsh treatment 
 received, had destroyed the faith of the members of the caravan as 
 to their eventual return. Though held in small account, and sub- 
 jected to grievous exactions of all kinds, they met everything with 
 apathy and indifference. The sanitary condition of the caravan 
 was very bad. Most of the people, without distinction of sex or 
 age, were afflicted with ulcerations and sores on their feet and legs. 
 The route taken for the study of the geological formation and 
 physical structure of the Yirika had caused them (deprived of the 
 means required for the protection of health) the inconvenience of 
 following the wildest and most arduous road of the region. 
 
 Fortune willed, however, that circumstances should be favour- 
 able to us, and we had a supply of food beyond our requirements. 
 In the open spaces of the forest, cultivated with bananas, maize, 
 and colocynth, we easily obtained an abundant and constant supply 
 of sustenance, as the natives generally fled on our arrival. 
 
 We then emerged from the gloom of the forest and went down 
 the hills sloping to the lake, bright with crops of wheat and 
 leguminous plants, which satisfied all our wants. 
 
 From Unyampaka three routes lead to Zanzibar : the first runs 
 through the Usimba and Kitaguenda countries, following the 
 mountain path by which it descends to Uganda ; the second goes 
 through the ISTkole country ; the third borders the lake and the 
 Nkole territory, and enters the Euanda district. Stanley, who 
 once feared the 200,000 warriors in the gorges of the Xkole, now 
 chose that very route without hesitation or discussion.
 
 ( 4i2 ) 
 
 CHAPTEK XXXIII. 
 
 FROM LAKE RUITAN TO LAKE VICTORIA. 
 
 The Nkole State — Conformation of the region — Wahuma and Wichiuesi — King 
 Ntali — A shepherd, not a king — Fear of strangers — "I will not flee, but wait 
 for you" — Negotiations started in Unyoro — Hospitality granted to Uganda 
 Christians — Mtesa driven away — Slaughters — Either circumcision or death — 
 Karema — Persecutions against Christians — Muanza christened at the French 
 Mission — A difficult path — The Mpogo swamp — The king's concessions to the 
 caravan — Disorderly conduct of soldiers and Zanzibaris at Ruganda — Fight to 
 rescue a woman — The king's son visits the camp — Murder of a Manyema and 
 of a woman — The river Kagera — A girl carried away by a leopard — The 
 mineral waters of Ntagata — Karagua's country — King Ndagora a vassal of the 
 King of Uganda — Carried in a hammock — Death by cold on the way to 
 Batenga — The Urigi Lake — Fatelmula, a soldier, abandoned to the Mtara 
 people's revenge — His horrible death — Requisitions end — Provisions are bought 
 — Fatal effects of manioc — An Akka's flight — The Victoria Lake — At the 
 British Mission — Mackay. 
 
 The region surrounded by the kingdom of Uganda, the country of 
 Kuanda, and the Kagera river forms the Nkole State, under the 
 dominion of King Ntali. The territory consists of the group of 
 heights which, sloping from the main range of the so-called Moun- 
 tains of the Moon, go down as far as the Karagua, towards the 
 Victoria Lake. The high mountains, some of which have an 
 altitude of about 6500 feet (2000 metres), protect the country from 
 the danger of invasions and raids. Narrow gorges, rocks, difficult 
 paths, mountain pastures, want of water and trees, give a wild 
 aspect to the territory, which, only in the farthest slopes and in the 
 valleys, is brightened by cultivations of Indian millet, sweet 
 potatoes, peas, manioc, and banana groves. 
 
 The tobacco of the country has a good repute for the quality of 
 its leaves, its delicate scent, and for the diligent preparation it 
 undergoes. 
 
 The original part of the population is formed by the Wichinesi, 
 who were conquered by a strong tribe of Wahuma, called 
 Wagassara. These are now employed in agriculture, and live in 
 the country as a class of slaves, whilst the Wagassara possess great 
 numbers of cattle, especially oxen, remarkable for the extraordinary 
 length of their horns. 
 
 Ntali, the lord of Nkole, is a shepherd rather than a warrior, 
 who does not leave his mountains to attack the neighbouring 
 tribes and make raids in their countries ; but whilst he keeps on
 
 NT A LI, LORD OF NKOLE. 413 
 
 good terms with the potentates at his borders, he is a jealous 
 keeper of the gates of his kingdom. 
 
 He had business intercourse with the Arab merchants for the 
 purchase of arms and cloth, but he would never allow them to 
 travel over his dominions. He sends his people to the Karagua 
 and Uganda markets with ivory for the necessary purchases, and 
 occasionally he allows caravans to stop at the boundaries of his 
 country. 
 
 Challenged by King Chua, he had recourse to arms, fought 
 against the troops of the latter, and conquered them ; but he did 
 not avail himself of his victory to settle down as an autocrat in 
 the basin of Lake Ruitan. To Muanga, who, with youthful bold- 
 ness, asked him for a tribute of cattle, he answered: "You have 
 plenty of soldiers ; if ycu have courage enougli, come. I will not 
 flee, but wait for you." 
 
 In Unyoro, when I was negotiating for the selection of a route 
 for our correspondence, the hopes we entertained of sending it 
 through Nkole would have been successful, if King Chua's 
 jealousy had not put a stop to the discussion by suddenly sending 
 away Nguro, King Ntali's envoy. 
 
 When we crossed his country, we were given proof of his hos- 
 pitality to Christians, fugitives from Uganda. Muanga had inaugu- 
 rated his reign by persecuting the neophytes of the British mission- 
 aries. The peace (the benefits of which were enjoyed during the 
 last years of Mtesa's government) was abruptly disturbed ; Muanga 
 condemned hundreds of people to be burnt alive, and spread terror 
 and desolation over his country. Mr. Mackay, the chief of the 
 British Mission, was soon pointed out by the Arabs as an enemy of 
 the king and kingdom, and suffered odious vexations and ill-treat- 
 ment. He was exiled, but arrested shortly afterwards as a 
 runaway. The horrible insult was inflcted on him of witnessing 
 the spectacle of the death of a youth, a convert, of whom he was 
 particularly fond. 
 
 The Zanzibar Mohammedans did not stop their nefarious per- 
 secution, and obtained from the insane king the expulsion of all 
 missionaries, either of the Catholic or Protestant Church — and 
 their audacity went so far as to suggest to the King that he should 
 eradicate and extinguish in blood the dawning idea of Christianity 
 existing amongst the various castes of the population. 
 
 The persuasions of those fanatics would have been complied 
 with had not the king become aware of the danger he had unad- 
 visedly placed himself in, and attempted to master the current 
 which dragged him in its vortex. 
 
 He promised the Arabs friendship and protection, but in the 
 meantime secretly plotted against them, and was forsaken by all. 
 The Arabs, wishing for absokite power in the country, and jealous 
 of a supremacy which the frivolous nature of the king might have
 
 4 1 4 TEN YEARS IN EQUA TORI A . 
 
 suddenly made void, allied themselves with the converts to the 
 new religion against their common enemy, trusting in the hatred 
 which persecution had excited in the people. Hence revolution 
 ensued ; Katikiro, the Prime Minister, and the most dangerous and 
 influential persons were put to death ; King Muanga scarcely 
 managed to escape to a small island in the Victoria Lake, whilst 
 Kavira, his younger brother, was triumphantly proclaimed king of 
 freed Uganda. 
 
 The excitement of victory subsided after its celebration with 
 orgies and bloodshed. The new king, advised by friends upon 
 whom the ruin of the country weighed heavily, turned to gentler 
 counsels, and feeling ashamed of foreign influence, spoke words of 
 peace and brotherhood to his subjects. 
 
 The Arabs, who were powerful both as regards arms and friends, 
 could not tolerate his breach of the treaty, and, threatening the 
 king with the menace : " Either circumcision or death ! " besieged 
 his abode. The king replied with an emphatical refusal, and 
 appealed to his people, who made fun of him and left him to the 
 revenge of the fanatics. He and forty of his faithful friends met 
 death in the flames of the piles of wood set on fire around his 
 residence. 
 
 Having run the risk of seeing their work destroyed, the Arabs 
 grew prudent, and after having put to death all the other members 
 of the royal family, kept and revered Karema, a timid and 
 inexperienced lad, as a mere puppet of a king. Under his reign 
 persecution and pyres were again resorted to, with daily victims. 
 Those among the persecuted ones who were able to leave the 
 country found safety in Nkole. 
 
 Meanwhile Muanga, with a few of his household, repaired to 
 Usukuma, where he begged protection from the missionaries ; and 
 1,he murderer of Hannington, the ferocious persecutor of Christians, 
 the Nero of Uganda, was pompousl}' christened at the Catholic 
 Mission, and, if not praised, was certainly protected and forgiven. 
 Eoman Catholic and Protestant missionaries recognised him as the 
 King of Uganda, and exerted themselves in his favour. 
 
 On the 9th of July, Stanley, on being welcomed by a deputation 
 of Christian rebels, when entering the Kitega village, encouraged 
 them in their hopes, and promised to protect them and interest 
 himself in their cause, thus smoothing the way to a settlement for 
 an eventual protectorate over the whole kingdom of Uganda. 
 
 At Jikombi (July 4, 1889), having left the lake, the route 
 traverses high mountains, and is difficult, owing to the steep and 
 stony nature of the soil, as well as to the narrow and tortuous 
 paths. Here and there it slopes from the heights down to the 
 valley, and then runs for a long distance through cultivated 
 grounds and villages, surrounded by groves of banana-trees ; but 
 soon the path goes up steep and tiring hills again. Necessary rest
 
 FORDING A S WAMP. 
 
 415 
 
 did not compensate for the fatigues of the march, as the cold 
 temperature of the niglits prevented our sleeping, and compelled 
 us to sit by the fire, owing to want of proper shelter. 
 
 On the 12th of July we journeyed on a less hard road; we left 
 the range of mountains, which runs southward, and made for the 
 south-east, over smaller spurs, whence, descending from terrace to 
 terrace, we could from time to time discern a large plain covered 
 by a thick vegetation of papyrus, the sight of which had filled our 
 minds with joy when on the mountains. It was the ]\Ipogo swamp, 
 a basin of black mud, formed by the liuizi river, whicli expands as 
 
 FOKUIXC; THE MPOGO SWAMP. 
 
 it flows into the valley, and inundates it, its bulk of waters being 
 increased by the streams flowing from the neighbouring mountains. 
 We crossed the narrow ford in single file, grasping the papyrus 
 tufts and falling occasionally over one another when the one in 
 advance made a false step, thus covering ourselves with mire. 
 With shouts of anger and ironical jokes, we dragged ourselves along 
 for some distance before we reached a wide stream, where any 
 attempt to protect ourselves was of no avail, as there was not a 
 bush, or anything to catch hold of ; we were in the water up to our 
 chins. 
 
 The scene changed; the travellers, no longer in a line, but 
 scattered in groups over a large extent, attempted to cross swamps 
 wider than the one we had left behind us, in order to get to the 
 dry land. Without taking any trouble to find a ford, now 
 stumbling over papyrus roots, or heaps of mud, and sinking in the
 
 4i6 
 
 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 iiuarshy soil, wet from head to foot, after about two hours' 
 struggling we reached the banks, and ran along the road to the 
 hills, which led us to the Mpogo village, the residence of Igomero, 
 the son of the king. 
 
 It was night, and our efforts to save some of the oxen which had 
 fallen having been vain, we were obliged to abandon them. 
 
 A message from the king, brought by a prince of the royal 
 family, granted the caravan permission to get the necessary supplies 
 of bananas, beans, peas, and sweet potatoes in the fields along our 
 route — but limited to the farms that were near the villacres. 
 
 A WO.\rA.\ STOLEN. 
 
 Stanley, on account of this concession, strictly forbade the members 
 of the caravan to take the cattle and property found in the 
 dwellings. 
 
 On the 14th of July we arrived at Euganda, whose chief,. 
 Vasingana, is a kinsman of Ntali, where a sad event prevented 
 Stanley from carrying out his plan of an early departure. Some 
 soldiers and porters of the caravan having succeeded in evading the 
 surveillance of the camp, went to a village on the mountains, and 
 tried to steal goats and other property from the huts of the blacks. 
 Not at all frightened by the rapacious invasion, a good many 
 natives attacked the thieves, made six prisoners, and seized two 
 guns. Stanley was indignant, with reason ; but through the chief 
 of Euganda he obtained their release and the return of the rifles ;. 
 but he declared openly that, in the case of similar events taking 
 place, he would abandon the culprits to their fate. 
 
 Circumstances had chans^ed. AVe were no loncjer among: a
 
 A BOLD POPULATION. 
 
 417 
 
 timid population, frightened by our presence, and running away at 
 our approach ; nor with tribes surprised at our presence, 
 diffident but respectful ; we were amongst an audacious and cunning 
 population, well aware of their strength, watching our movements, 
 and always trying to take advantage of our passage through the 
 territory. 
 
 Intercourse with Uganda, business relationship with merchants, 
 have made of them a provident, sagacious, and thoroughly business- 
 like people. Their assaults on the stragglers gave proof of their 
 cnniiLy to us. On the 22nd they carried off a woman, found at a 
 distance from the caravan. 
 
 NTAI.l's I'KESENT TO STANLEY. 
 
 Promptly pursued and overtaken on the road, the numerous 
 raiders were attacked by Captain Shukri, near the village of 
 Viarua ; they defended themselves in the groves of banana-trees 
 but after a few shots the woman was saved, who, for the sake of 
 her life, had been glad to part with the few things she had with 
 her. 
 
 On the 23rd an unusual excitement prevailed in the camp owing 
 to the arrival of King Ntali's son. The Zanzibaris were drawn up 
 in lines ; the echo of the mountains resounded with salutes to the 
 king ; for the hrst time we heard the mitrailleuse fired. The king 
 sent two cows ; the usual courteous compliments were paid on each 
 side ; protection was promised, and, most important of all, we were 
 granted permission to leave the kingdom. 
 
 We descended the hills of Viarua, skirted the last mountainous 
 
 2 I)
 
 4 1 S TEN YEARS IN EQUA TOR I A. 
 
 slopes, and reached the river Kagera on the boundary between the 
 States of Nkole and Kara'^ua, on the 2ord. The king welcomed 
 us and sent presents, but his subjects impressed us with a sad 
 remembrance of their country. Half-way between Mavoua and 
 Kandakamo an unfortunate Manyema, prostrated by fever and heat, 
 was left behind ; he painfully attempted to follow the caravan ; 
 and awaiting his wife, who had gone to fetch some water for him, 
 stopped near a group of huts, but the natives rushed on the two 
 poor creatures, and answered their entreaties to have their lives 
 spared with thrusts of their lances, killing them both, and thus 
 giving vent to the hatred hidden in their hearts/ A patrol sent in 
 the evening in search of the couple had witnessed the murder 
 without being able to prevent it. 
 
 The river Kagera, called Kitangobe by the Waganda, flows 
 south-westward between two high hills, and is, at Kandakamo. 
 about 330 feet (100 metres) broad; its current has great velocity. 
 At an altitude of 3800 feet (1160 metres) it finds it way through 
 the mountainous country, and after havmg received the waters of 
 several tributary rivers, amongst which the principal is the Euizi, 
 reaches the Victoria Lake by long windings. 
 
 The violence of the current renders the crossing of the stream 
 dangerous and long. We had to join two boats strongly together ; 
 and part of the caravan ferried over the river on the 27th, the 
 day of our arrival ; but the majority were obliged to encamp on 
 the shore. 
 
 The valley is full of wild beasts, which manifested their presence 
 to us by sinister roars. At about midnight the whole camp was 
 disturbed by loud shrieks : a leopard had taken away a girl. 
 Everybody started to trace the unlucky woman and try to save her 
 but in vain. Tiie victim could not be recovered. 
 
 Ou the 28th of July 1889 we entered the Karagua country, which 
 we traversed, by a route ascending hills scattered over the valley, 
 which with long zigzags reaches Ugomoro, and from thence the 
 Ntagata mineral waters, which the inhabitants of the country 
 make great use of for the cure of diseases of the skin. In the 
 territory between the mountainous region in which the river Sem- 
 liki flows, to the shore of the Victoria Lake, hot springs are 
 plentiful. On the route followed by our caravan we came across 
 a sulphurous spring near Msucali in the Vakongio country, the 
 temperature of the water was 30'^'7 Centigrade ; in the Usongora 
 territory one drew our attention near Muchora, and its water was 
 SC'S ; and in another at Moshambo, we found the register to be 
 35°. Li the district of Usigno the temperature of the spring 
 called Teko was ascertained to be 33°* 16. 
 
 The Karagua territory, already known, owing to the account 
 given by Speke in connection with King Eumanika, was con- 
 quered by and annexed to Uganda, after having gone througk
 
 A GIRL SEIZED BY A LEOPARD. 419 
 
 internal commotions, either owinf]j to tlie caprice of princes or the 
 dissensions of the people. The King of Uganda's first care was to 
 deprive the country of its numerous and beautiful cattle, the main 
 source of the wealth of the population. 
 
 Ndagora, Kumanika's youngest child, is the king of the country, 
 but more from traditional habit than real authority. The Arabs, 
 who once used to have stations there, after the opening of the road 
 to Uganda through Usukuma and the lake, now only make raids 
 in the State at certain times in order to obtain the supply of ivory, 
 compelled to do this by the continual hostility of the natives. 
 Their permanent station, established at Kafuro, was abandoned 
 after the murder of the Arab Bin Salem, treacherously shot with 
 arrows by the natives. 
 
 Since my illness, when visiting Lake Ruitan, I had several 
 attacks of fever, but on the 2nd of August 1889, I was taken so 
 very ill that Dr. Parke asked for and obtained the necessary porters 
 to carry me. 
 
 Every day that passed, I felt weaker, and it was with joy that I 
 welcomed the day of the arrival of the caravan at Mr. Mackay's 
 British Mission station. 
 
 At daybreak of August 8, the sky was clouded, and a very cold 
 wind from the south blew violently and rendered our limbs torpid. 
 But the caravan started. We had already ascended the first hill, 
 covered with woods of mimosa, when a terrible rainfall began, 
 driven so strongly by the force of the wind that we could hardly 
 breathe. The caravan was broken up ; porters dropped their loads, 
 many an imprudent one stopped by blazing fires, and at our 
 arrival at Batenga several individuals were missing, who had died 
 during our journey. On account of the increased number of sick 
 people, and the necessity of making the loads lighter, several boxes 
 of ammunition were thrown in the Urigi, a little lake surrounded 
 by grassy hills, whose waters are of a bright azure. The Urigi has 
 an elongated shape, the greatest distance between the two ex- 
 tremities being about 19 miles (30 kilometres) ; it is so narrow 
 that from one side the other can always be clearly seen. Its shore 
 is broken by numerous inlets, thus making the banks of this lake 
 pleasant to the sight. 
 
 The Yanghiro district, which is situated on the eastern shore of 
 the Urigi, is a hilly region, scattered over with villages and culti- 
 vated fields, as well as with woods of banana-trees. 
 
 At ten o'clock a.m. of the 12th of August, we encamped in a 
 wooded plain on the lake shore, not far from the Mtara village ; 
 and soon all our people, soldiers, servants, women, and children, 
 started for the purpose of seeking food, of which we were in want. 
 
 A few soldiers and Zanzibaris entered the village and forced 
 their society upon a party of natives who were drinking beer. 
 Without the least prudence or sense of reciprocal respect, our men
 
 420 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 soon began to insult and ill-use the blacks, and, as was their custom, 
 took possession of the vessels of beer, driving their owners away. 
 
 The natives did not suffer the insult quietly ; but, having called 
 their friends to help, prepared to attack the troublesome guests. 
 Thus a fight ensued, and one of the natives having been killed, the 
 others, raging with fury, doubled their efforts, and succeeded in 
 making some prisoners. The news soon reached the camp, and 
 Stanley sent for particulars of the event, and opened an inquiry 
 into tlie matter. 
 
 The natives demanded payment for the loss sustained. Blood- 
 shed does not admit of mercy. Stanley, faithful to his word given 
 at Eugandu, did not condescend to enter into any agreement, but 
 handed over the soldier guilty of murder to the friends of the 
 murdered Negro, to pay with his life for the life of the deceased. 
 
 Rejoicing at their success, they dragged the poor fellow away, 
 and, like an automaton, he off"ered no resistance to his executioners. 
 
 The party had not left the camp long when three arrows were 
 already stuck in the back of their victim. The same evening it 
 was told in the camp that, in compliance with the wishes of the 
 angry females, Fatelmula's teeth had been pulled out one by one. 
 The sentence of death passed upon him was to be executed by long 
 and atrocious sufferings. 
 
 The lex talionis traditional with the natives was on that occasion 
 sanctioned and confirmed by the authority of the luhitc people. 
 Great w^as the discontent felt in the camp at the severe sentence, 
 and the soldiers begged Emm to intervene for the victim ; Omar, 
 the Soudanese officer, appealed to him as the direct chief of the 
 Government's people, but the Paslia refused to comply with their 
 requests. 
 
 The condition of the caravan was about to change. Since the 
 day we left the Albert Lake it had always been an easy thing to 
 get the necessary supplies. The abundance of products in the 
 countries we had successively crossed, the natural timidity of the 
 natives, as well as the superiority of the armed caravan, removed 
 every obstacle to our catering, and each individual could always 
 and with no difficulty find a plentiful supply to meet his wants. 
 
 Already this state of affairs was modified in the Nkole country, 
 where, fortunately, the king granted us permission to get the 
 necessary food for the caravan all along the route we were to 
 follow. But this advantage was now taken from us, and our wants 
 were to be met with by paying for the goods. 
 
 On the 14th of August Stanley therefore began to distribute 
 glass ware to each family, proportionately to the number of the 
 individuals comprising it. From that day new difficulties arose 
 continuously. 
 
 The limited supplies of the caravan, the stock of goods, not 
 always such as to meet the exigencies of the natives, and the ever
 
 CASATI ILL, OX THE RETURN,
 
 DISTRIBUTION OF GOODS. 
 
 42 r 
 
 increasing claims of the vendors, seduced by easy profits on account 
 of the imperious wants of our column, were obstacles of such 
 gravity that we should never have been able to triumph over them 
 if the property of the inhabitants of the country had been duly 
 respected, and if our arrival at the British Mission had been 
 delayed. 
 
 The habit prevailing among the servants and porters of the 
 caravan of eating raw manioc roots, in spite of the reiterated 
 
 P^ jrr^ ~^M^ <^a~'' 
 
 ■'mi W^ 
 
 '■'■^ DISTRIBUTION OF GOODS. 
 
 warnings of those who knew the dan- 
 gers of such a practice, had its victims. 
 
 On the 15th two young fellows, hungry 
 and impatient, ate some roots which 
 they had bought, without cooking them. 
 During the night both of them died in 
 '^ consequence, after having suffered hor- 
 
 rible spasms. 
 I had an Akka with me whom I had taken from Monfuland ; he 
 had accompanied me in my trips, and when I offered to take him 
 to Zanzibar, followed me more from inveterate custom than from 
 affection. His stature was 4 feet 5 inches (l'o2 metre), with 
 regular and proportionate limbs ; his skin was of a light brown 
 colour, and covered by soft hair all over his arms and legs. An 
 intelligent and artful individual, honest and respectful, he was a 
 splendid archer, and was clever in catching butterflies and setting 
 traps for birds and small animals. 
 
 Besides these qualities, he had a very jovial temper, and with 
 comic dances and somersaults, imitating warlike actions, he used 
 to entertain the party. But he fell in love ! and my Akka fled to 
 search for his beloved one, who, fallen exhausted, had been 
 abandoned on the road, and was no more seen among us. 
 
 We were getting near the Victoria Lake. On the 18th, from 
 the mountains, which we skirted from Kisinge to Guyamogojo for
 
 42 2 TEN YEARS TN EQUATORTA. 
 
 more than four hours, we could see a branch of this lake ; we 
 reached its shore next day, near Kissao, in the Ukume district, and 
 marched along its banks as far as Moranda. 
 
 August 21. — Woods of mimosa, with huts and villages, sur- 
 rouniled by groves of banana-trees, and cultivated fields, cover the 
 hills. 
 
 At Moranda the road leaves the lake, and runs through woody 
 plains and meadows, with few villages, as far as Usambiro, the 
 French Mission, which had been recently abandoned for want of 
 water. The villages we came across on our route were enclosed 
 in wooden fences. On the 28th of August the caravan arrived at 
 the establishment of the British ]Mission. 
 
 My heart rejoiced in entering that house ! It was the home of 
 a friend, whose rare qualities I knew so well, though he was 
 personally unknown to me. Common dangers and comforts led 
 both, he in Uganda, and I in Unyoro, to very hard experiences. 
 This unknown friend was Mr. Mackay. 
 
 ^^'hen we shook hands, I gazed in his face, and he appeared to 
 me the very man 1 had fancied him to be. His manners were 
 kind and frank. Intelligent-looking and highly intellectual, 
 though he spoke seldom, when he did it was to the point. After 
 our arrival on the coast, death put an early end to a life devoted 
 wholly and with no ostentation to redemption and civilisation. 
 He died on the field of his contest, and his name will live for a 
 long time on the lips and in the hearts of the Uganda natives, who 
 with filial affection, venerated him, and will tell his virtues to 
 future generations.
 
 ( 423 ) 
 
 CHAPTER XXXIV. 
 
 ARRIVAL AT BAGAMOYO. 
 
 David Livingstone and slavery — Humanity is one and the same everywhere — Ex- 
 plorers and missionaries — Robbers of men in Egypt and Zanzibar — The war in 
 Africa — Europe intervenes — I'ersecution of the missionaries — Suppression of 
 the slave treaty — The words of Cameron — The means must be adequate to the 
 end — Want of news — Stanley decides on departing — Arrangements for the 
 journey — The districts of Urima and Boniera — Attack by Negroes in the dis- 
 trict of Kelia— Four days of hostilities— General flight of the natives — Atrocity 
 com-nitted by a Soudanese porter — Adansunia dif/itafa — The chief Mitinginya 
 — The Wanyamuesi — Evil school of the Arabs — The tenibe — The Masai— i'heft 
 of three asses — A Masai saved from deserved punishment — Fauna and flora — 
 The chief Icongo — The Fathers Giraud and Schynse— The forest of sorrows — 
 The ri\ er of palms — The cisterns of Makomero — We leave the forest — A re- 
 membrance of the caravan for the Wanyamuesi — We set foot in Ugogo — 
 Mualata — The Wagogo — The iembe of Ugogo — Sands and desolation — The 
 chief Xianguii-a — A foolish pretext — Robbery of guns — The caravan at Un- 
 yamuesi — Letter from Wissmann to Emin — The village of JIussanga— The 
 forest of Jonyo or of the salt water — A well-merited punishment — At 
 Mpwapwa — Usagara-^A lovely region — At ilrogaro — The French mission- 
 aries — Captain Gravenreuth — At Kingani — The explorer of the Cassai — At 
 Bagamoyo — Accident to Emin — The return. 
 
 " I CAN do nothing more except to wish that the fullest blessings 
 of Heaven may fall on those who will cause the scourge of slavery 
 to disappear from the earth." Such was the last thought of the 
 great man dying, of the man who had consecrated thirty years of 
 toil and suffering to the redemption of the African people — of 
 David Livingstone. 
 
 Humanity is the same everywhere : man is of one kind, what- 
 ever may be the ethnographical differences that have given rise 
 to a variety of races. Every act that tends to set aside this right 
 of equality is in opposition to the harmonious laws that regulate 
 tlie universe, and should be opposed by every one. 
 
 ►Slavery, the daughter of oppression and covetousness, degrading 
 human nature, casts strife and barbarity over an immense number 
 of people, whom it reduces to the condition of vile and foolish 
 creatures. To emancipate man from this outrage done to his 
 dignity constitutes a duty for civilisation, intent on the legitimate 
 vindication of the principles of morality and right, and will be 
 consecrated in history as a monument to the honour and glory of 
 our century. It is the cry raised by all humanity, that the poet 
 has repeated with the beauty of lyrical expression :* 
 
 * A. Manzoni, " The Count of Carmagnola."
 
 434 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 " All aro in one great image made, 
 
 In one Kederaption all men share ; 
 In every age. in every clime, 
 
 Where'er we breathe this vital air, 
 We all are Itrethren — by a law 
 
 Condemning him who breaks the chain, 
 Who dares to trample on the weak, 
 
 And canse the immortal spirit pain." 
 
 Ill the inhospitable lands of Africa, wliicli, from their climate 
 and the harshness of nature, have been shut from the knowledge 
 of the civilised world from immemorial time, the native chiefs, 
 powerful by audacity or by descent, found pleasure in hunting 
 human creatures for the satisfaction either of their caprice or 
 luxury. And when explorers or missionaries, inspired by a noble 
 enthusiasm, endeavoured to tear away the veil of mystery tliat 
 enveloped the Dark Country, and to raise brilliant hopes in its 
 forsaken inhabitants, they found in their way — an unpropitious 
 augury — the robbers who traded in human flesh, who had come 
 from Egypt and Zanzibar. But these valorous and enterprising 
 men were not discouraged ; they even redoubled their efforts, and, 
 inspired by a noble self-denial, they led the negroes on the road to 
 civilisation, and rendered them, by instruction, capable of strug- 
 gling against their bitter persecutors. Unfortunately, they were 
 few, and they perished in the struggle. The banner of a religion 
 raised only to cover wicked intentions, kindled war and spread 
 desolation on every side. The strife would have still farther ex- 
 tended its evil consequences if Europe, breaking with a noble 
 imjmlse through all liindrances, had not arisen as the avenger of 
 the violated rights of humanity. She sent her soldiers to the gates 
 of the black continent, thus pledging her honour for the redemp- 
 tion of its inhabitants. The noble pioneers of this rescue, few and 
 isolated, either paid with their life for the boldness of the enter- 
 prise to which they had devoted themselves, or were left wandering 
 through those inhospitable regions to await the dawn of the day of 
 requital. 
 
 Uncertain of their own future, yet strong and fearless, we found 
 the French missionaries on the shores of Lake Vict(jria at Ukumbi, 
 fugitives from their various stations, and at Usumbiro the English 
 clergymen previously driven from Uganda and afterwards from 
 Msalala, through the hatred excited against them by the Mussul- 
 mans. 
 
 An arduous enterprise, and deserving of all attention, of calm 
 study, and prudent action, is the task that Europe has assumed in 
 the conflict between civilisation and barbarism — in the work for 
 the suppression of slavery. 
 
 " Those who desire the extirpation of the slave-trade," said 
 Cameron, " sliould set in motion words, money, and energy." 
 
 But in our time is benevolence sutticient for that redemption ?
 
 HO ir TO ABOLISH SLA VER Y. 425 
 
 And is it possible to collect the enormous sums it would require ? 
 Is not the reasonable use of armed force indispensable for the sup- 
 pression of slavery ? The depopulation of the country by the 
 removal of slaves ; the habit in most of them of forgetting the 
 family from which they were taken at a tender age, and of adapt- 
 ing themselves to the degradation of their lot ; the natural mistrust 
 of the Negro, much increased by the horrors of which he is a wit- 
 ness ; his dislike of work, and the readiness with which he leaves 
 his birth-place, are all reasons that should keep us on our guard 
 against being led away by Utopian ideas in reflecting on the means 
 available to secure the object of our wishes — that is, the redemption 
 of Africa from barbarism. 
 
 Enthusiasm is as easy in Europe as disillusions are in Africa. 
 At the first step the dreamed-of light is changed into darkness, 
 and every unexpected obstruction signifies a disaster. 
 
 It is, therefore, necessary that the means should be adequate to 
 the end in view, so that the foot may not recede from the place 
 where it has marked its imprint. Neither should we proceed with- 
 out first being sure of victory, because the banner of redemption 
 should be a guarantee of lasting protection. Our first care oiight 
 to be to satisfy in a just measure the new desires and new needs of 
 the natives ; to render social intercourse friendly and sincere ; to 
 excite the activity of their minds, and urge them to alacrity in 
 work. A loyal commerce of exchange ; cordiality, brotherhood 
 without distinction of races ; love and reverence for that which is 
 just and honest, instilled into the hearts by the salutary assistance 
 of religion — without, however, any utilitarian character in it that, 
 for the slavery of the body, would often substitute that of the 
 mind — will lead gradually and without great shocks to the redemp- 
 tion of a people who are not deficient in natural gifts, and who 
 occupy a region remarkable for its extent and fertility of soil. 
 
 To the slave dealers, however, constant persecution, incessant 
 war, the infamy of the gallows should be given. 
 
 The information we received at the British Mission about the 
 road that remained for us to travel over, although it was not of 
 recent date, was not reassuring. The fact even of the non -arrival 
 of the couriers augmented doubt and confirmed the opinion that we 
 should encounter probable peril. The conflict on the coast of 
 Zanzibar, between the troops of the German Government and the 
 rebel Arabs, was still going on, and the territory to the south of the 
 lake, even into the heart of Usagara, was at the mercy of the 
 insurgents. 
 
 In consequence of these rumours, Mackay was earnest in dis- 
 suading Stanley from ordering the immediate departure of the 
 caravan, and advised him to await the arrival of couriers with more 
 positive intelligence. But Stanley, pre-occupied by the difficulties 
 that would certainly have arisen from this delay, and on the other
 
 426 
 
 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 side confiding in the armed force of the caravan, decided, after 
 having sent on a letter-bearer, to depart on the morning of the 
 17th of September. 
 
 The repose and comfort that we had enjoyed during our stay at 
 the jMission had strengthened our health ; and the conviction that 
 
 NEGRO OF URIMA. 
 
 the most difficult part of the journey was overcome, and that the way 
 to Zanzibar had been for a long time open to caravans, and therefore 
 presented nothing unknown, made every one feel convinced of 
 safely reaching the end of our journey. 
 
 On the march to Bagamoyo provisions could no longer be pro- 
 cured by re(|uisition;j ; they must be obtained by means of payment
 
 PR O VISIONS B O UGHT. 4 2 7 
 
 to the natives, therefore the cloth and beads necessary for exchange 
 were again distributed to each component part of the caravans. 
 
 I had a gift from Stanley of some provisions, and I was able to 
 purchase from the French missionaries some clotlies and shoes, 
 besides an ass, which, though old and feeble, and an object of 
 universal commiseration, went on intrepidly, and was of most 
 valuable assistance to me as far as Bagamoyo. 
 
 On the 17th of September we took leave of our courteous host, 
 and the caravan, proceeding more carefully than it had ever done 
 before, took the road to the district of Urima. This is a low plain 
 covered with short grass, marked by frequent marshes, broken by 
 masses and fragments of rocks, and here and there showing rare 
 trees of Cucifcra thcJiaim. After travelling three days, we were in 
 the district of Boniera, a territory shut in by low hills and sprinkled 
 with frequent villa;^es and groups of dwellings, with a large popu- 
 lation, who received us, when we stopped to pitch our camp 
 (September 19, 1S89), with war cries and offensive actions, to 
 which we replied by silence and indifference. 
 
 But the day after (September 20, 1889), having entered the dis- 
 trict of I\elia and approached the residence of the chief Malissa, 
 the head of the caravan was suddenly assailed by arrows, shot 
 from behind a pile of enormous stones that, rising up, formed a 
 lull, and amongst which the habitations of the village are con- 
 stiucted. Two Zanzibaris were wounded, and a combat began ; 
 the crowd decamped, but other casualties occurred. We were 
 engaged witii men posted in ambush, who discharged arrows and 
 musket shots at us. "We prudently retired and encamped under 
 the shelter of a group of rocks. 
 
 Xor did the audacity of the natives stop here. Leaving very 
 early on the morning of the 21st, we were soon overtaken by the 
 enemy, who closely followed us, joined by others of the territory 
 that we were traversing. We marched on, lighting on the 22nd 
 and 2ord. The flat land, on the way we were pursuing, open all 
 round us, did not present any serious peril of our being smartly 
 attacked. The caravan marched compact and united, as the plain, 
 free from all obstacles, permitted it ; the flanks and rear were pro- 
 tected by guards posted at a convenient distance. But the paucity 
 of the means of sustenance, the scarcity of water, and the finding 
 ourselves near the entrance of a wood (by which one passes from 
 the district of Usseke to that of Vanianga), obliged us to take an 
 energetic resolution. It was three hours after noon, September 2o, 
 1889. The mass of the natives, firm in its hostile intentions, was 
 increased from the surrounding villages, and redoubled its hostility; 
 the rushes that our men made in different directions no longer 
 sutflced to keep them back. The mitrailleuse was brought up to the 
 front of the camp, its roar resounded, and there was a general flight. 
 We were freed from any further molestation. The dwellings of the
 
 42! 
 
 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 neighbouring villages were sacked, and then burnt down ; some 
 heads of cattle were surprised and captured, whilst the proprietors 
 were driving them away in their flight. 
 
 In the night, from the tent of a Zanzibari porter the groans of a 
 suffering woman brought angry voices from every part where 
 repose had been disturbed. Suddenly a gun shot was heard, and 
 then silence reigned in the darkness. The miserable creature 
 killed was the woman who had groaned ; an unhappy being, 
 captured that day, and bound by strong and tight cords to preven^ 
 
 ATrACK OX THE t'AUAVAN. 
 
 her from taking flight. Her scoundrel of an owner, not being able 
 to silence her by threats, in a lit of rage had committed murder. 
 
 Following a direction to the south-east, and then to the south, 
 in six days we traversed the districts of Vanianga and Kisumbe, 
 in which the colossal Adansonia dirjitata (baobab) makes a fine 
 show ; and then by the districts of Samie and of Nguro, through a 
 dense population, extensive fields richly cultivated, and lovely 
 woods of umbelliferous plants, we entered into Unyamuesi, stopping 
 in the district (Oct. ], 1889) of Usongo, where the chief Mitinginya 
 rules. 
 
 Mitinginya is the only Sovereign of these regions who always 
 shows the vsanie courteous manner towards Europeans without 
 asking them for tribute. He is satisfied with a gift, often of very 
 little value. He told us that at our return we should bring him 
 two great receptacles in which he could carry water during war 
 and the chase, because the last time he had suffered much from 
 thirst.
 
 ATTACK ON THE CARAVAN. 429 
 
 Mitinginya is about fifty years of age, but has still a young and 
 fresh countenance. He marches always at the head of his warriors, 
 is the first in the combat, and is a bnive chief, beloved and feared 
 by his people. A European power might draw profit from him, 
 and obtain a stable footing in Unyamuesi without great expense. 
 
 If it were possible to find a successor at Mirambo, wlio would be 
 feared on account of his power, placing by his side a European to 
 instruct and counsel him, much would be gained in favour of peace 
 in the country between Tanganika, Tabora, and Xyanza. The 
 roads would be again secure, and our missionaries could attend to 
 the conversion of the country without being disturbed. Of all the 
 Wanyamuesi princes, Mitinginya seems to me the only one with 
 whom such an experiment might be made with probability of 
 success. The presence of a small force commanded by Europeans 
 would give him such prestige that his name would be sufficient to 
 maintain order, and, on the other side, the Europeans would not 
 be suspected of " wishing to devour the country." The station 
 would have little attraction for a foreigner, but it would be very 
 useful. 
 
 Usongo is a slightly undulating country, without woods, as a 
 great part of Unyamuesi is, and comparatively healthy.* Unya- 
 muesi is a rich and productive country ; cattle, grain, rice, beans, 
 and tobacco are found in abundance in every village. The popu- 
 lation is intelligent, active, strong, and robust, with manifest 
 business-like propensities, but somewhat suspicious, noisy, and 
 prone to malice. To the use (common to all the Xegroes) of 
 copious libations they add the fatal hasheesh {Cannabis indiat), 
 the use of which they learned from the Arabs of Zanzibar. 
 Ground to the finest powder, they use it as snuff; in the leaf they 
 smoke it in great pipes, and they chew it half roasted, as a pastime. 
 To prolong the voluptuous pleasure of the narcotic, they regulate 
 the slow combustion of the leaves with little red-hot stones, 
 amongst which they put the tobacco in the pipe. The noisy 
 sneezes, excessive, convulsive coughs, wild cries, frequent quarrels, 
 and the constant repetition of the stupid old jests of a hundred of 
 these raving drunkards accompanied the caravan till they reached 
 Bagamayo. They have no forms of religious faith, but they have 
 very definite and respected traditions about social order and the 
 conduct of each individual. 
 
 The villages are formed of scattered and isolated habitations that 
 occupy almost the whole territory brought into cultivation, and 
 that are called tanhc. The tcmhc of the "Wanyamuesi is a rectangu- 
 lar construction, with a narrow door for entrance in the front. 
 The walls of mud, mixed with chopped grass and intertwined 
 osiers, reach a height of about ten feet, and are furnished with 
 
 * Father Augustus Schynse, With /Stanley and Emin Pasha across Eastern 
 Africa ,
 
 430 TEN YEARS IN EQUATOKIA. 
 
 loopholes for defence. The rooms are distributed all round tlie 
 interior, the centre of tlie dwelling has a well of water in it, and is 
 reserved for the shelter of the animals during the night. The 
 number of the family who inhabit it varies with the size of the 
 building. When one arrives in sight of these villages, one is struck 
 by the capricious distribution of the houses, from the roofs of 
 which clouds of pigeons lly ; the number of cows and goats, mixed 
 with groups of asses, scattered confusedly around ; and the colossal 
 Adanmnia, which give importance to the vastness of the plain, 
 show in a pleasant and comforting manner the prosperity of the 
 region and the well-being of its inhabitants. 
 
 The country is swarming with Masai, called in by Mitinginya to 
 assist him in his war against Siniba, the chief of a bordering tribe 
 that at intervals became troublesome by its inroads into Usongo. 
 
 " These Masai are agile and robust ; they clothe themselves in 
 the skins of animals, and wear real weights of iron in the lobes of 
 their ears, fastened by great pins. They have always a serious 
 manner, and one seldom sees on their lips the appearance of a 
 smile. Their armament consists of a great oval shield made of 
 bull's hide and coloured black, white, and red ; a great lance, the 
 point of which is nearly thirty inches long and more than four 
 inches wide, whilst at its other end it is furnished with an iron 
 sword thirty inches long. The handle or pole of the lance 
 measures six feet six inches in length. At their crossbelt they 
 wear a sword two feet long, in a wooden sheath. On the upper 
 part of the arm the Masai wear also a little stiletto. 
 
 "These warriors despise fire-arms and know" (wiihout them) liow 
 to make themselves feared by enemies armed with guns ; every 
 owner of cattle is an enemy for them. The young men of this 
 tribe it they are not called on to aid others (in which case the 
 flocks taken remain the latter's property) effect on their own 
 account extensive inroads into the zone of hostilities, taking what- 
 ever they can find. They live almost exclusively on their flocks. 
 They plant only a few bananas, and for this reason do not need 
 slaves. Their language differs entirely from the Bantu, and has 
 only deep guttural sounds. It is a rare occurrence to find an 
 interpreter by whom one Cftn connnunicate with them. Many 
 times Europeans have visited their native country betv.-een Kili- 
 manjaro, the mountains of Usagara, and the coast, but they were 
 not always received amicably."* 
 
 Of their superiority in audacious rapine we had proofs during 
 the nine days that we encamped at Usongo. One night three 
 asses were stolen from the caravan, and were only returned by the 
 Masai robbers two days afterwards, on the authoritative interven- 
 tion of Mitinginya. 
 
 * Father Augustus Scbjnse, Willi, Stanle)j and Emin Fitsliu across Eastern 
 Africa,
 
 THE CHIEF MITINGINYA. 431 
 
 The Masai used to go round our encampment under the pretext 
 of selling us articles of food ; and although our men, aware of their 
 tendency to theft, stood on their guard, they had every day to 
 lament some cheating on tiieir part. 
 
 One day one of these men with sesame to sell, went to a hut 
 when the wife of an Egyptian employe was alone. For a long 
 time he discussed the quality and quantity of his merchandise, and 
 wliiist the woman, annoyed by his importunity, unfolded a piece of 
 cloth to show him, he caught it suddenly, tore it from her, and ran 
 ott'. Theories of the robbed woman raised an alarm; the thief 
 was soon arrested, and, luckily for him, the intervention of an 
 officer saved him from the clubs of the Soudanese servants. 
 
 The place of the encampment was close to the habitation of 
 Stokes, an English merchant, who undertakes to supply and guide 
 caravans from Zanzibar to the regions of Lake Victoria. Stokes 
 has married a daughter of Mitinginya. and such a relationship 
 gives him great influence in the country, and facilitates for him 
 the task of enrolling or engaging Wanyamuesi porters. At this 
 time he was absent, having gone with the Rev. Messrs. Gordon and 
 Walker to Uganda, in order to re-establish the station and the 
 authority of the missionaries. 
 
 On the 9th of October 1889, the march began across Unyamuesi. 
 The plain was cut by the sandy beds of dried-up torrents, in which, 
 however, one found water by digging a little way down. It was 
 broken by frequent undulations of hilly ground, and scattered 
 over with numerous villages and fields that were being prepared 
 for the approaching sowing. The Adcuisonia, king of colossal 
 plants, showed its branches, unadorned by leaves ; and rows of the 
 borassus ])alm comforted us on the march (troubled by drought) 
 with the hope of finding restorative water. Woods of acacia, the 
 refuge of lions, of leopards, of hyenas, and of lively monkeys, were 
 alternated with grassy plains, on which fed menacing buftaloes ; 
 timid antelopes tied at our approach, whilst astonished giraffes 
 surveyed us from the wooded hills. Xiava, Muana, Dombolo, 
 Kivalaro, with minor groups of tcmh: (villages), were full of sounds 
 and rumours from their crowded populations, who were always 
 noisy and in motion. 
 
 We arrived October 17, 1889, at Gombe Yaicongo, the residence 
 of the chief Icongo, rich in cattle and ruler of an extensive 
 territory. 
 
 In this locality there joined us and accompanied the caravan two 
 French missionaries. Fathers Giraud and Schynse, on their journey 
 to Zanzibar. The first was going to Etirope to try and recover his 
 failing health ; the other accompanied him, according to the rules 
 of the fraternity. They are affable in their manners, intelligent 
 and active, devoted to Africa and the duties of their noble ministry,, 
 as well as to their scientific studies.
 
 432 TEN YEARS IN EQUA TORI A . 
 
 At the hour of six in the morning the usual whistle announced 
 our departure, October 20, 1889. There were few trmh:, few culti- 
 vated fields. We entered the wood. It was the Mgunda-Mkali — 
 tlicforcd of sorrovs — the rising ground tliat separates Unyamuesi 
 from Ugogo. AVe saluted the last Adansonia ; and entered thick 
 woods of thorny shrubs, amongst wliich the Mimosa latronum was 
 the finest. 
 
 The way was marked by a narrow path, widening at rare 
 intervals into small grassy glades, by some little dried-up torrents, 
 climbing and descending undulations of ground that was of little 
 elevation. Walking was unpleasant, from the unevenness of the 
 ground, and from the thorny branches that, curving in, formed a 
 continuous gallery, a great hindrance to the carriers of large loads. 
 And worse still was the deficiency of water, from which those 
 imprudent people suffered who had been deaf to the repeated 
 injunctions to make adequate provision of it before starting. 
 
 However, fate was propitious to us, and we found a little water 
 in the sands of Makalongo, and in those of Mtikwa, and more 
 abundantly on the twenty-second day (October) at the river Msaka, 
 which the Zanzibaris, not strangers to this road call, Mto Misanzi, 
 the river of the palms, which abundantly fringe its banks. The 
 latitude of this place, according to astronomical observations made 
 by Father Schynse is 5° 29' S. ' 
 
 October 23, we descended into a vast plain ; the acacia trees 
 became thinner, and thus the difficulties of the march were 
 diminished. Three palm trees rose at a distance, a sign of the 
 probable presence of water. We entered a thick wood, and after a 
 struggle of two hours with the insidious brambles we reached the 
 reservoirs of Makomero. They are three pools in a large open 
 plain, scooped out in the rocks by the hand of man, and about 
 eighty feet deep. They contain aliundance of water, due to the 
 presence of a subterranean current. 
 
 The strength of the caravan preserved us from a peril that fre- 
 quently occurs to merchants who have to pass through the forest of 
 sorrows — that of being assailed by robbers, who, in the recesses of 
 the wood, have rooms in miserable huts, and are ready to fall on 
 incautious loiterers, or on travellers without sufficient means of 
 defence. The numerous tires near each other that we were obliged 
 to keep up in the places of encampment guaranteed us from the 
 assaults of the wild beasts inhabiting the forest ; and wliere the 
 danger of setting fire to anything hindered us from using this 
 means of defence we found spacious enclosures already prepared 
 bv hunters, or by caravans that had preceded us, surrounded with 
 hedges of thorny foliage. 
 
 On the 24th we traversed a woody road, in the midst of which 
 a plain opened that preserved some traces of culture, and a little 
 further on was a series of dismantled temle in the vicinity of dry
 
 THE MASAI WARRIORS. 433 
 
 pools or mire. We were ou the water-slied of Lake Tanganika 
 sloping towards the Indian (Jcean. 
 
 The road slowly descended. On the 2-jth we were at Kapalata 
 on the extreme borders of Mgunda Mkali. The apparent tran- 
 quillity of the inhabitants, and the courtesy of the chief, gave us 
 confidence ; while the Wanyamuesi of the caravan, putting faith in 
 the respect that the force of the expedition must inspire, the next 
 morning early set out and preceded the column by some hours. 
 It was the worse for them, for they were assailed by robbers hidden 
 in the woods, saw themselves robbed of the goats that tliey drove 
 before tbem, and owed their own safety to prompt tiight. 
 
 We left the wood and entered a grassy region scattered over with 
 rocky hills ; the road ascended by a winding path strewn with 
 stones, steep and broken, till we reached the hrst terrace. 
 
 Here a wide extent of open plain presented itself to our gaze, 
 whitened by its sandy nature, bare of vegetation, and treeless. It 
 was the arid Ugogo, the country of furious winds, of rarely seen 
 bushes, that produces only poor scanty grain and pumpkins. We 
 continued the descent ; then a vast llat area surrounded by low 
 hills, broken by large ponds of water, sprinkled with extensive 
 tracts of cultivation, and sown with numerous Adanmnia, pre- 
 sented a line picture. We precipitated ourselves rather than 
 descended, on account of the steepness of the road, and we were in 
 sight of Mualata, an extensive village, which numbered quite sixty 
 large tcmhe. The chief of the village is tributary to the Mickou/e 
 of Nianguira, who is the most potent prince of Ugogo. " The 
 Wagogo are troublesome and saucy, and it is difficult to get rid of 
 them ; besides, they are very dirty. They dye their stuti's (when 
 they wear any, and are not content with a goat skin thrown over 
 their shoulders) a brownish red, the same colour with which they 
 also dye their skin and hair, the lobes of their ears are deformed 
 by their hanging to them circles of wood, pieces of iron, rings, 
 their pipe and tobacco pouch. They are armed with an oval shield 
 of raw ox-hide, with a lance of a difierent style to those of the 
 Masai, and they also carry bows and arrows. 
 
 "They are fairly robust and prolific, rich, and in consequence 
 .•also impudent ; they have the bad habit of exacting large tributes 
 from passing caravans, on which account many of the owners unite 
 to pay a single tribute which, divided amongst many, is not so 
 sensibly felt. The caravans are in their power, because the porters 
 refuse to depart until the tribute question is settled ; and besides 
 that, the Wagogo occupy the wells and prevent their getting water. 
 The country is melancholy, and without woods." * 
 
 The toiihc of Ugogo are generally constructed in the identical 
 form and with the same kind of material as those in Unyamuesi, 
 
 * Father Augustus Scliynse, With /Stauiei/ and Eiuia Pashu across Eastern 
 Africa. 
 
 2 £
 
 434 
 
 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 the only visible difterence is in the position of the entrance door 
 which, instead of being at the front of the house, is at the bottom 
 of an open court that occupies the centre of the buikling. 
 
 We had surmounted the circle of heights that form the basin of 
 Mualata, and, passing by woody tracts over successive undulations, 
 we entered (October 28, 1889) the vast plain of Ugogo, broken 
 here and there by rare bushes, by groups of horassvs palms near 
 the water-courses, and by long tracts of woods of low and thorny 
 trees. The torrents that — as far as we could infer from their 
 winding and deeps beds — must in the season of rains flow abun- 
 
 VILLAGE OF L'GOGO. 
 
 dautly, were now perfectly dry, and even by digging amongst 
 the sands it was difficult to find sufficient water ; in some places 
 one meets with none. The wells that have water in them at this 
 season are carefully guarded by the natives, who refuse to point 
 them out, and when once they have been found demand payment 
 in cloth or tobacco for the water that is drawn from them. 
 
 At Nianguira (October 29), the prince with unusual insolence 
 caused Stanley to be told that tribute should be paid for crossing
 
 THE PLAIN OF UGOGO. 
 
 435 
 
 his territory ; but knowing that the caravan did not carry ivory, 
 he would be contented if they would heap up a certain quantity of 
 wood for him, as much as he required to construct a Umhc 'Phis 
 strange request would have deserved a suitable reply ; but, in the 
 condition of our caravan, prudence counselled that the tribute 
 should be converted into the payment of a limited quantity of cloth. 
 The next night (October oO), the AVagogo gave us specimens of 
 their tendency to theft. Penetrating into tlie camp by the entrance 
 in the Kitinku wood, they robbed us of a gun, from the hut in 
 which the Soudanese Captain Sbukri slept, and of two others, the 
 
 
 
 ''^k^ l/f/ )\ 
 
 . I r^ ^^iii^jaaMwJZBB 
 
 JJtLIVEUr OF A I.lilTKIl T(J K.MI.N. 
 
 property of the Zanzibari porters. Stanley would have liked to 
 give a lesson to this population of robbers, but " I have these 
 women and boys with me," he said, " and they render it impossible 
 for me to do so." 
 
 We were at the river Bubo, in a small M'ood (October 31) that 
 afibrded us shelter from the burning rays of the sun ; a line of 
 palms cheered us and indicated the path that we ought to fellow in 
 our search for water. The presence of a colony of ]\Iasai not far 
 from the opposite side of the river kept the people vigilant and 
 united. It was near noon, when cries of gladness arose in the 
 encampment, and there was swift running toward the way by 
 which we had come ; messengers had arrived, sent through 
 Usukuma with letters. 
 
 They had travelled by the road of tlie caravan ; knowing the 
 direction taken by us, they had hastened their return. They came 
 from Mpwapwa, and brought a letter from Wissmann for Emin.
 
 436 TEN YEARS IN EQUATOKIA. 
 
 lie had started for Zanzibar, leaving Lieutenant ScLmidt with 
 troops to await us. The joy of this announcement, removintj all 
 furtlier douhts as to the news we had received that moi'ning from a 
 caravan of AVanyamuesi which we met on tlie road, raised every 
 one's spirits ; the journey presented no further ditticulties : 
 Mpwapwa was near, the fati^t^ues that still remained to be borne 
 no longer gave us any nneasiness. 
 
 On the 1st of November 1889, very early, we resumed our march 
 in undergrowths and thorny thickets. In little more than five 
 hours we reached the small village of Magombia, in which locality 
 one finds little water, even by digging the ground to a great depth. 
 Nevertheless, in view of the necessity of renewing our provisions, 
 of which the country could furnish as much as we needed, Stanley 
 granted t day's rest. 
 
 The road continued from the first amongst Ijriars and thorny 
 woods ; then through a grassy plain, with groups of huts scattered 
 over it, it led us to Matako, November 1, 1880. Here and there in 
 the plain there rose isolated little hills, rocky and without vegeta- 
 tion. We marched towards the east; the ground soon became hilly, 
 with many now dried-up torrents, and we halted at Npala. The 
 country here is serrated in the front and at the sides by a chain of 
 mountains. 
 
 Through woods of mimosa, and passing over hills of little height, 
 we entered a vast plain, and after a walk of two hours pitched our 
 camp (November 6) at Mnssanga, a large village of about fifty 
 temh: ; some Adcmsonia, groups of mimosa, vast fields, and wells in 
 good number were near the habitations. The plain extends with- 
 out undulations of any sort, until it reaches the mountains, which 
 border it closely on the north, and still more so on the west, where 
 a cliff', disengaging itself from the chain, projects in proximity to 
 the last trmlu: of the village. 
 
 The 8th of November, we encamped at the river Mausea, shut 
 in between two hills ; on the 9th we traversed the forest of Jonyo, 
 called by the caravan Marenga Mkali, that is, salt water ; we 
 arrived the same day at the foot of the mountains of Usagara. 
 The road runs on the slopes of successive hills, and gradually we 
 gained the summit, descending on the opposite side to Kambi. 
 
 On the point of leaving Ugogo, and putting an end to the 
 sufferings of the caravan fiom the aridity of the soil and the 
 wickedness of its inhabitants, it did not seem amiss to take the 
 opportunity that presented itself of leaving a remembrance of our 
 presence. The herds of the caravan, reduced to a few heads of 
 cattle, whilst being driven to pasture were assailed by about fifty 
 Masai, who thought it an easy jJi'^y. But the few Soudanese who 
 had charge of the animals resented their audacity with arms, and 
 the strife was brief, for the Masai, seeing two of their companions 
 fall dead, took to precipitate fiight. *
 
 ARID UGOGO. 
 
 43 
 
 I.IKCTEXAXT ROCHCS SCirMIKT.
 
 438 
 
 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 The road was fatiguing, nevertheless not a word of complaint 
 was heard (November 10) ; all were joyous and marched close 
 togetlier, not a break in the ranks, not one of tlie caravan delayed 
 to rest on the side of the road. We ascended a steep hill, passed 
 the mountain ; were soon on the plain ; we reposed under the 
 shade of scycamores and acacias on the shore of the torrent, in 
 whose bed ran a fresh and limpid water tliat fell from the neigh- 
 bouring mountain ; in front of us, on a little hill, was the military 
 station, above which floated the German flag. This station is 
 formed by a stone wall, constructed diligently and solidly by the 
 Soudanese soldiers and Kisuaili, under the direction of German 
 officers. The lieutenant, liochus Schmidt, as ordered by Major 
 
 
 .i '?* 
 
 "^ 
 
 
 .^3^^-'''^ 
 
 
 MEETING AVITII MAJOK WISSJtANX. 
 
 Wissmann, placed himself at the disposal of Emiu l*asha. On the 
 12th November, early in the morning, the column commenced its 
 march, preceded by Lieutenant Schmidt and iiis Soudanese soldiers, 
 the German banner in the vanguard. 
 
 A rich and fertile country, with abundance of water, rejoicing 
 in verdant pastures and shady trees, made delightful by the 
 balsamic air of the mountains, with inhabitants of gentle and 
 kindly manners — this is Usagara. 
 
 The chain of mountains that extended before us in a semicircle 
 descends to the plain by a series of minor hei<ihts, forming first the 
 valleys of the Dambi, Kidete, and Mokondokua, the principal 
 river of this region. The way, sharj) and difficult, opens over the 
 spurs of the chain, amongst bushes and woods shutting in the 
 valley, which grows larger where the Siniba pours itself into the
 
 THE HAXQUET AT liACAMOVO.
 
 WISSMANN'S LIEUTENANT. 
 
 439 
 
 Mokondokua. Great acacias, white trunks of Biittncriacccc and tlie 
 Palma dum, ^vwQ a gracious and imposing aspect to the region. 
 
 At first the spaces under cultivation are small, but they go on 
 augmenting with the extension of the valley, and fine plantations 
 of bananas, fields of grain, and verdant meadows abound on the 
 declivities that descend gently to the plain. 
 
 The dwellings of the natives of Muini Usagara are formed of 
 huts with conical roofs ; the villages are generally placed together 
 in the recesses of the valleys and on the hills amidst the woods. 
 On the 20th of November we left the high mountains behind us 
 and entered a beautiful and vast plain, charmingly planted and 
 
 I!ACiA.M()Y((, MIlEIiK EMIX fi ACCIDENT OCCUUKEI). 
 
 shaded by umbelliferous trees and palms, and inhabited by 
 numerous antelopes and gazelles, and next day, by a wood of 
 palms and over a country that begins to present dunes of sand, we 
 arrived at the river ]Mkate, rapid in its course, and scattered with 
 large stones. 
 
 Mrogoro, the altitude of which is M'21 feet (4-33 metres) opens 
 the plain of the Irrengere, where chief Kinga dwells, an intelliirent 
 young man. The French missionaries have made a lovely dwelling 
 for themselves on a spur that projects like a terrace from the 
 mountain, and have there a garden charming from the riches and 
 variety of the plants cultivated in it. 
 
 By Simbamueni and ]\Iikese — through green woods and following 
 the crests of a series of beautiful hills — we arrived at the river 
 Irrengere, M'hich, after having received the waters of the Mrogoro,
 
 440 TEN YEARS IN EQUATORIA. 
 
 falls into the Kingani. The land is transformed Ijy slightly marked 
 undulations, partly covered by grass and thick bushes, and at 
 Kisenio readies an altitude of -Joo feet (102 metres). 
 
 On Nov. 28 we arrived at ]\Isua, where we were delighted by 
 the arrival of Captain (jlravenreuth, " the lion of the coast " — thus 
 called from acts of valour performed by him in combat, during the 
 insurrection of the Mafiti — as well as by the arrival of two corre- 
 spondents of Ainerican journals with provisions for Stanley. 
 
 On December 1, 1889, we raised our camp at Msua, and at eight 
 o'clock in the morning of Dec. \ we arrived at the river Kingani, 
 where we were received by the Oerman Imperial Commissioner, 
 Major Wissmann, the bold explorer of Cassai. 
 
 The joy of return, and the festive reception given us by those 
 who had assembled to greet us in Bagamoyo, were marred by the 
 misfortune that befell Emin, happily less serious than we suspected 
 at the time. 
 
 .Restored to my country after this long Odyssey of trials and 
 perils, it is with a heart full of gratitude that I offer this public 
 thanksgiving to those who contributed to my safety. And now, 
 presenting these memorial pages, without pretence of learning, and 
 free from personal ambition, I must declare that it has been my 
 constant study to succeed in following the ancient precept : 
 
 Amicus Flafo, scd magis arnica Veritas.
 
 FIRST APPENDIX. 
 :meteorological ubservations 
 
 IN 
 
 MAMBETTU AND UNYORO. 
 
 2 V
 
 442 
 
 METEOROLOGICAL OBSER VATIONS. 
 
 Gadoa Station, Altitudi'; 242S fket (740 jietues). 
 
 
 
 Htgeomi;i):i{. 1 
 
 Am; 
 
 tOID 
 
 Wixi). 
 
 
 Day. 
 
 HOUK. 
 
 
 n,4ROMKTEK. | 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 Rem.\^uk.s. 
 
 
 
 Wot. 
 
 Dry. 
 
 Xo. I. 
 
 Xo. 2. 
 
 Uirec- 
 ti<jii. 
 
 I 
 
 
 1884 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Jan. I 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 16.20" 
 
 16.00" 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 34.80 
 
 21.40 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 N.E. 
 
 2 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 20.40 
 
 19.00 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 2 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 16.10 
 
 15.80 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 „ 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 36.00 
 
 22.00 
 
 686 
 
 695 
 
 S.E. 
 
 I 
 
 jather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 21.00 
 
 19.00 
 
 685 
 
 694 
 
 8.E. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 3 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 18.00 
 
 17.00 
 
 686 
 
 695 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 '' 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 3380 
 
 24.20 
 
 687 
 
 696 
 
 N.E. 
 
 I 
 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 23.20 
 
 20.00 
 
 684 
 
 694 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 4 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 17.40 
 
 16.80 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 35.20 
 
 21.40 
 
 686 
 
 695 
 
 N.E. 
 
 I 
 
 1 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 26.00 
 
 22.00 
 
 685 
 
 694 
 
 E. 
 
 1 
 
 rather dourly 
 
 5 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 19.80 
 
 19.40 
 
 686 
 
 696 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 33-40 
 
 21.80 
 
 686 
 
 696 
 
 N.E. 
 
 2 
 
 clear 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 20.20 
 
 18.40 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 ., 
 
 6 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 17.00 
 
 16.40 
 
 686 
 
 696 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 3360 
 
 20.30 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 N.E. 
 
 I 
 
 \^ 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 2 1. CO 
 
 18.80 
 
 6S5 
 
 695 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 
 7 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 18.00 
 
 16.80 
 
 686 
 
 695 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 fair 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 3300 
 
 19.40 
 
 686 
 
 695 
 
 N.E. 
 
 2 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 19.20 
 
 16.80 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 8 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 15.20 
 
 13.80 
 
 687 
 
 697 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 31.40 
 
 18.CO 
 
 688 
 
 697 
 
 N. 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 20.00 
 
 1540 
 
 686 
 
 697 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 ,, 
 
 9 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 13.80 
 
 12.00 
 
 688 
 
 699 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 29.00 
 
 15.40 
 
 690 
 
 699 
 
 N. 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 19.80 
 
 15.00 
 
 687 
 
 696 
 
 S.E. 
 
 
 
 ., 
 
 10 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 14.20 
 
 13.20 
 
 687 
 
 698 
 
 S.E. 
 
 
 
 fair 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 31.60 
 
 18.00 
 
 6S7 
 
 697 
 
 E. 
 
 2 
 
 clear 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 18.20 
 
 15.00 
 
 687 
 
 697 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 J, 
 
 II 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 14.40 
 
 13.00 
 
 688 
 
 697 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 33-40 
 
 23.40 
 
 688 
 
 608 
 
 N. 
 
 1 
 
 clear 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 18.20 
 
 16.20 
 
 686 
 
 696 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 
 12 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 13.80 
 
 13.00 
 
 687 
 
 697 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 33-40 
 
 20.20 
 
 688 
 
 697 
 
 N. 
 
 I 
 
 j^ 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 18.20 
 
 16.00 
 
 686 
 
 696 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 ,, 
 
 13 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 13.40 
 
 13.00 
 
 ■687 
 
 697 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 34.60 
 
 22.40 
 
 6S7 
 
 697 
 
 N.E. 
 
 1 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 20.20 
 
 18.40 
 
 686 
 
 695 
 
 S.E. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 14 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 18.60 
 
 17.60 
 
 688 
 
 698 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 35-60 
 
 22.40 
 
 686 
 
 696 
 
 N.E. 
 
 I 
 
 clear 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 23.80 
 
 20.20 
 
 686 
 
 696 
 
 N.W. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy (i) 
 
 IS 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 20.40 
 
 20.00 
 
 688 
 
 699 
 
 W. 
 
 
 
 cloudy 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 32.20 
 
 24.40 
 
 690 
 
 699 
 
 N.W. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 21.40 
 
 19.60 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 16 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 22.60 
 
 21.00 
 
 6S8 
 
 697 
 
 N.W. 
 
 
 
 j^ 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 33-40 
 
 24.00 
 
 6S7 
 
 697 
 
 W. 
 
 2 
 
 rather cloudy (2) 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 19.80 
 
 19.40 
 
 687 
 
 696 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 ,j 
 
 17 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 19.60 
 
 19.00 
 
 687 
 
 696 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 fair 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 33-60 
 
 24.00 
 
 686 
 
 695 
 
 N.W. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 20.40 
 
 1980 
 
 686 
 
 696 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 clear
 
 ME TEOROLOGJCAL OBSER VATIONS. 
 
 443 
 
 
 
 IlTGltOMETKK. 
 
 AXBKOID 
 
 Wl.M) 
 
 
 
 Hoii;. 
 
 
 H.\1(ometi;k. 
 
 
 
 
 Day. 
 
 Wet. 
 
 Dry. 
 
 Xo. I. 
 
 Xo. 2. 
 
 Direc- 
 
 
 i. 
 
 Remarks. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 tion. 
 
 
 
 
 1884 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Jan. 18 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 16.80° 
 
 16.60° 
 
 688 
 
 698 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 33-60 
 
 22.40 
 
 688 
 
 697 
 
 N.W. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 20.40 
 
 19.00 
 
 685 
 
 696 
 
 N.W. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 19 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 21.00 
 
 20.40 
 
 687 
 
 696 
 
 N.W. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 3340 
 
 23.20 
 
 687 
 
 697 
 
 W. 
 
 I 
 
 clear 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 20.60 
 
 19.00 
 
 686 
 
 696 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 ,, 
 
 20 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 17.20 
 
 16.80 
 
 687 
 
 697 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 3340 
 
 23.40 
 
 687 
 
 697 
 
 N.W. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 21.00 
 
 19.00 
 
 687 
 
 697 
 
 W. 
 
 
 
 ,, 
 
 21 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 13.40 
 
 12.20 
 
 6S7 
 
 697 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 34.00 
 
 16.40 
 
 686 
 
 695 
 
 N. 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 9 p. m. 
 
 20.40 
 
 15.00 
 
 686 
 
 69s 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 ,, 
 
 22 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 10.60 
 
 980 
 
 687 
 
 698 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 J, 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 3300 
 
 23.00 
 
 688 
 
 697 
 
 N.W. 
 
 2 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 16.60 
 
 14.60 
 
 689 
 
 699 
 
 N.W. 
 
 
 
 ,, 
 
 23 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 11.80 
 
 10.20 
 
 688 
 
 698 
 
 N.W. 
 
 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 30.20 
 
 16.60 
 
 687 
 
 696 
 
 N. 
 
 I 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 14.80 
 
 12.40 
 
 687 
 
 696 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 
 24 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 940 
 
 8.80 
 
 688 
 
 699 
 
 N.W. 
 
 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 2 i).ni. 
 
 31.20 
 
 17 00 
 
 688 
 
 697 
 
 N.E. 
 
 I 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 15.80 
 
 13.40 
 
 686 
 
 696 
 
 N.W. 
 
 
 
 „ 
 
 25 
 
 7 a.m. 
 2 p.m. 
 
 10.40 
 
 9.40 
 
 687 
 
 697 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 17.20 
 
 14.20 
 
 687 
 
 697 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 26 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 13.00 
 
 10.60 
 
 687 
 
 697 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 „ • 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 34.00 
 
 18.60 
 
 689 
 
 698 
 
 E. 
 
 2 
 
 I) 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 17.80 
 
 1540 
 
 687 
 
 696 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 ,, 
 
 27 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 16.40 
 
 14.20 
 
 687 
 
 698 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 „ 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 34.60 
 
 18.80 
 
 688 
 
 698 
 
 N.E. 
 
 I 
 
 ji 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 17.80 
 
 15.40 
 
 686 
 
 696 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 ;> 
 
 2S 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 34.80 
 
 20.40 
 
 689 
 
 698 
 
 N. 
 
 I 
 
 clear 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 18.40 
 
 15.80 
 
 686 
 
 696 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 „ 
 
 29 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 16.40 
 
 14.80 
 
 686 
 
 696 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 35-80 
 
 20.10 
 
 686 
 
 696 
 
 E. 
 
 r 
 
 clear 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 19.40 
 
 17.00 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 S.E. 
 
 
 
 ,, 
 
 30 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 15.40 
 
 14.20 
 
 686 
 
 696 
 
 S.E. 
 
 I 
 
 „ 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 35-80 
 
 20.60 
 
 686 
 
 696 
 
 S.E. 
 
 I 
 
 „ 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 IQ.80 
 
 17.60 
 
 686 
 
 6.96 
 
 S.E. 
 
 
 
 » 
 
 31 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 15.80 
 
 15.00 
 
 6H6 
 
 696 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 )) 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 34.80 
 
 18.60 
 
 687 
 
 696 
 
 N.E. 
 
 I 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 18.20 
 
 16.00 
 
 686 
 
 696 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 » 
 
 Feb. I 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 12.00 
 
 10.60 
 
 688 
 
 698 
 
 X. 
 
 I 
 
 „ 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 32.20 
 
 17.00 i 
 
 689 
 
 69S 
 
 N.E. 
 
 2 
 
 „ 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 19.60 
 
 12.S0 1 
 
 689 
 
 697 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 ,, 
 
 2 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 11.00 
 
 9.80 1 
 
 687 
 
 697 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 „ 
 
 1 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 31.20 
 
 16.00 
 
 687 
 
 697 ; 
 
 N. 
 
 2 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 16.40 
 
 13.10 
 
 687 
 
 697 1 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 ,, 
 
 3 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 10.40 
 
 9.00 
 
 686 
 
 696 
 
 N.W. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 30.80 
 
 16.40 
 
 687 
 
 696 
 
 N.W. 
 
 I 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 14.40 
 
 12.00 
 
 685 
 
 696 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 4 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 10.60 
 
 9.80 
 
 686 
 
 696 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 >) 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 33-40 
 
 18.60 
 
 687 
 
 696 
 
 S.E. 
 
 I 
 
 II 
 
 
 9 pm. 
 
 16.40 
 
 13.S0 
 
 685 
 
 696 
 
 S. 
 
 
 
 "
 
 444 
 
 METEOROLOGICAL OBSER VA TIONS. 
 
 
 
 IIVGKOMETKR. 
 
 AXEKOID 
 
 WiSD. 1 
 
 
 Day. 
 
 IIOUK. 
 
 
 U.lROMErEK. 
 
 
 
 Remarks. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 \\\t. j Dn-. 
 
 No. I. 
 
 X.). 2. 
 
 Direc- 
 tion. 
 
 1 
 
 
 1884 
 
 Feb. 5 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 11.60° 
 
 10.40' 
 
 684 
 
 695 
 
 s.\v. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 
 2 p.m. 1 
 
 34-40 
 
 18.20 1 
 
 686 
 
 695 
 
 N.W. 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 20.40 
 
 16.20 
 
 684 
 
 694 
 
 s.w. 
 
 
 
 cloudy 
 
 6 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 17.80 
 
 16.20 1 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 S.E. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 36.00 
 
 20.40 
 
 685 
 
 694 
 
 E. 
 
 2 
 
 jj 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 26.40 
 
 17.60 ' 
 
 685 
 
 696 
 
 N.W. 
 
 
 
 cloudy 
 
 7 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 17.40 
 
 16.80 ' 
 
 687 
 
 697 
 
 NE. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 32.20 
 
 17.60 
 
 687 
 
 697 
 
 E. 
 
 I 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 16.20 
 
 13.80 
 
 687 
 
 696 
 
 N. 
 
 I 
 
 clear 
 
 8 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 13.00 
 
 12.40 
 
 687 
 
 697 
 
 X. 
 
 
 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 3300 
 
 18.80 
 
 688 
 
 698 
 
 N. 
 
 I 
 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 18.80 
 
 15.40 
 
 688 
 
 699 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 ,, 
 
 9 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 14.60 
 
 12.80 
 
 687 
 
 697 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 32.40 
 
 18.60 
 
 687 
 
 697 
 
 N. 
 
 2 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 17.80 
 
 14.80 
 
 686 
 
 697 
 
 N.W. 
 
 I 
 
 
 10 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 12.80 
 
 11.40 
 
 687 
 
 696 
 
 N.W. 
 
 
 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 34.20 
 
 18.20 
 
 686 
 
 696 
 
 N. 
 
 2 
 
 J, 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 18.40 
 
 14.60 
 
 687 
 
 696 
 
 N.W. 
 
 
 
 ,, 
 
 II 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 13.00 
 
 11.60 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 N.W. 
 
 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 35.00 
 
 18.20 
 
 686 
 
 696 
 
 N.E. 
 
 2 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 18.60 
 
 15.40 
 
 686 
 
 696 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 ,, 
 
 12 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 13.10 
 
 12.10 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 36.80 
 
 19.20 
 
 686 
 
 696 
 
 N. 
 
 2 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 21.80 
 
 17.60 
 
 685 
 
 692 
 
 N.W. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 13 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 18.20 
 
 16.20 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 „ 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 36.40 
 
 20.80 
 
 686 
 
 695 
 
 N. 
 
 I 
 
 II 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 25.40 
 
 18.60 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 S.E. 
 
 2 
 
 cloudy 
 
 14 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 18.00 
 
 16.80 
 
 687 
 
 697 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 34.80 
 
 22.40 
 
 688 
 
 698 
 
 N.E. 
 
 I 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 25.40 
 
 20.40 
 
 686 
 
 695 
 
 W. 
 
 I 
 
 clear 
 
 15 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 20.60 
 
 19.20 
 
 68q 
 
 699 
 
 S.W. 
 
 I 
 
 cloudy 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 35-00 
 
 23.00 
 
 687 
 
 697 
 
 W. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 22.60 
 
 19.60 
 
 686 
 
 695 
 
 N.W. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 16 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 20.60 
 
 18.80 
 
 686 
 
 696 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 34-40 
 
 21.80 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 E. 
 
 I 
 
 11 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 23.40 
 
 19.60 
 
 685 
 
 694 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 ,, 
 
 17 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 19.80 
 
 18.60 
 
 686 
 
 696 
 
 W. 
 
 
 
 
 
 2 i).m. 
 
 30.00 
 
 22.80 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 S.W. 
 
 I 
 
 cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 19.20 
 
 17.80 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 w. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 18 
 
 7 &.m. 
 
 18.80 
 
 18.60 
 
 686 
 
 696 
 
 N.W. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 32.60 
 
 23.80 
 
 686 
 
 696 
 
 N.W. 
 
 I 
 
 J, 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 22.40 
 
 19.60 
 
 687 
 
 697 
 
 N.W. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 19 
 
 7 a.ixi. 
 
 21.00 
 
 19.60 
 
 688 
 
 698 
 
 N.W. 
 
 
 
 fair 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 34.60 
 
 23.20 
 
 689 
 
 699 
 
 W. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 20 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 37-00 
 
 20.80 
 
 687 
 
 697 
 
 N.E. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 24.C0 
 
 19.40 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 fair 
 
 21 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 24.60 
 
 20.60 
 
 686 
 
 696 
 
 N.E. 
 
 I 
 
 cloudy (3) 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 32.00 
 
 23.20 
 
 684 
 
 693 
 
 N.W. 
 
 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 9pm. 
 
 21.60 
 
 19.80 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 W. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 22 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 20.00 
 
 18.80 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 N.W. 
 
 
 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 38.80 
 
 23.80 
 
 684 
 
 693 
 
 E. 
 
 2 
 
 rather cloudv 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 2400 
 
 19.20 
 
 685 
 
 694 
 
 N.E. 
 
 I 
 
 » (4) "
 
 METEOROLOGICAL OBSER VA TIONS. 
 
 445 
 
 Day. 
 
 lloLK. 
 
 lIVGIfOMKTKK. 
 
 Ankkoid 
 
 BAllO.MKTl;lf 
 
 Wind. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Hkmiuks. 
 
 
 
 Wot. 
 
 Dry. 
 
 No. I. 
 
 Xo. 2. 
 
 Direc- 
 tion. 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 1884 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Feb. 23 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 20.80° 
 
 18.40° 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 N.W. 
 
 
 
 iMlher cloudy 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 34.00 
 
 24.10 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 N.W. 
 
 I 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 24.60 
 
 21.00 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 S.E. 
 
 I 
 
 fail- 
 
 24 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 21.40 
 
 19.80 
 
 687 
 
 6q7 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 33.00 
 
 24.10 
 
 686 
 
 696 
 
 w. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 \ 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 23.80 
 
 20.20 
 
 686 
 
 695 
 
 N.W. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 25 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 21.20 
 
 20.00 
 
 686 
 
 696 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 jj 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 82.40 
 
 22.20 
 
 686 
 
 696 
 
 N.W. 
 
 2 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 21.00 
 
 18.40 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 W. 
 
 
 
 J) 
 
 26 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 17.80 
 
 17.20 
 
 686 
 
 696 
 
 N.W. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 34.80 
 
 21.40 
 
 685 
 
 694 
 
 N.W. 
 
 1 
 
 J, 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 21.00 
 
 18.20 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 27 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 18.20 
 
 17.40 
 
 687 
 
 696 
 
 N.W. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 36.20 
 
 21.60 
 
 686 
 
 696 
 
 N. 
 
 I 
 
 fair 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 25.60 
 
 19.80 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 W. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 28 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 23.00 
 
 20.60 
 
 686 
 
 696 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 fair 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 32.20 
 
 24.40 
 
 685 
 
 694 
 
 N.W. 
 
 1 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 22.40 
 
 20.20 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 fair 
 
 29 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 17.60 
 
 17.40 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 34.80 
 
 21,20 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 N. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 20.00 
 
 17.80 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 clear (5) 
 
 Mar. I 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 18.80 
 
 18.20 
 
 684 
 
 694 
 
 N.W. 
 
 
 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 35-40 
 
 23.80 
 
 684 
 
 693 
 
 N. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 22.80 
 
 19.20 
 
 685 
 
 694 
 
 N.W. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 2 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 21.00 
 
 19.80 
 
 687 
 
 697 
 
 N.W. 
 
 1 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 3S-IO 
 
 21.80 
 
 686 
 
 695 
 
 N. 
 
 2 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 21.80 
 
 18.20 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 N.W. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 3 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 17.80 
 
 16.60 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 38.20 
 
 20.20 
 
 685 
 
 694 
 
 N.E. 
 
 2 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 22.20 
 
 17.40 
 
 684 
 
 693 
 
 N.W. 
 
 
 
 ,, 
 
 4 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 22.10 
 
 20.20 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 S.E. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 36.40 
 
 19.00 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 E. 
 
 2 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 20.40 
 
 16.60 
 
 685 
 
 693 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 5 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 20.60 
 
 17.20 
 
 684 
 
 694 
 
 S.W. 
 
 I 
 
 cloudy (6) 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 3460 
 
 ?2.20 
 
 685 
 
 694 
 
 w. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 22.80 
 
 20.00 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 S.W. 
 
 I 
 
 clear 
 
 6 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 1S.60 
 
 18.40 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 w. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 33-20 
 
 20.40 
 
 684 
 
 693 
 
 N. 
 
 I 
 
 clouily 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 24.60 
 
 20.00 
 
 685 
 
 694 
 
 w. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 7 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 20.60 
 
 18.40 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 S.W. 
 
 I 
 
 cloudy 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 3440 
 
 23.80 
 
 684 
 
 694 
 
 W. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 26.20 
 
 20.60 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 S.W. 
 
 I 
 
 •• (7) 
 
 8 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 21.20 
 
 19.40 
 
 686 
 
 696 
 
 S.E. 
 
 I 
 
 fair 
 
 
 2 i3.m. 
 
 34.00 
 
 23.60 
 
 686 
 
 696 
 
 S.W. 
 
 1 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 21.40 
 
 19.20 
 
 685 
 
 69s 
 
 S.E. 
 
 I 
 
 cloudy (8) 
 
 9 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 20.60 
 
 20.20 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 N.E. 
 
 1 
 
 rat her cloudy 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 3480 
 
 25.40 
 
 685 
 
 694 
 
 S.E. 
 
 I 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 19.20 
 
 18.80 
 
 684 
 
 693 
 
 S.E. 
 
 I 
 
 cloudy (9) 
 
 1 '° 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 19.20 
 
 18.80 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 ] 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 34.80 
 
 24.20 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 N.W. 
 
 
 
 '1 , ^ 
 
 j 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 25 00 
 
 21.40 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 „ (10) 
 
 II 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 20.20 
 
 19.20 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 N.W. 
 
 I 
 
 fair 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 33-00 
 
 24.60 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 N.W. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy (11) 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 21.20 
 
 20.60 
 
 684 
 
 694 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 .. (12)
 
 446 
 
 METEOROLOGICAL OBSER VA TIONS. 
 
 \ 
 
 
 IIygkomktkk. 
 
 An 
 
 KKOID 
 
 Wind. 
 
 1 
 
 , DAT. 
 
 Hoik. 
 
 
 Barometek. 
 
 
 
 Ki;MiKKS. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 AVct. 
 
 1 Dry. 
 
 No. I. 
 
 No. 2. 
 
 Direc- 
 tion. 
 
 c 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 1884 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Mar. 12 
 
 . 7 a.m. 
 
 18.60° 
 
 18.40° 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 fair 
 
 
 1 2 p.m. 
 
 3300 
 
 24.20 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 : rather cloudy 
 
 
 1 9 p.m. 
 
 23.40 
 
 21.20 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 N.W. 
 
 
 
 ., (13) 
 
 13 
 
 1 7 a.m. 
 
 20.00 
 
 19.40 
 
 686 
 
 696 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 2 p.m. 
 
 J3300 
 
 22.80 
 
 686 
 
 696 
 
 N.E. 
 
 2 
 
 ; ., 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 22.20 
 
 1 20.60 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 N.W. 
 
 
 
 fair 
 
 14 
 
 ' 7 a.m. ' 20.80 
 
 1 19.80 
 
 686 
 
 696 
 
 1 s.w. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 2 p.m. 1 31.40 
 
 24.20 
 
 685 
 
 696 
 
 w. 
 
 I 
 
 fair 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 23.20 
 
 20.80 
 
 687 
 
 696 
 
 1 N. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 15 
 
 1 7 a.m. 
 
 20.60 
 
 19.80 
 
 i 685 
 
 695 
 
 \\. 
 
 
 
 ij 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 35-60 
 
 24.80 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 S.W. 
 
 I I 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 22.20 
 
 20.00 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 ' S.W. 
 
 I 
 
 cloudy (14) 
 
 16 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 20.00 
 
 iS.So 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 s.w. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 22.60 
 
 21.60 
 
 685 
 
 694 
 
 S.W. 
 
 2 
 
 clear (15) 
 
 
 i 9 p.m. 
 
 20.00 
 
 19.80 
 
 684 
 
 , 695 
 
 S.E. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy (16) 
 
 17 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 18.60 
 
 18.60 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 S.W. 
 
 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 3340 
 
 25.00 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 S.E. 
 
 I 
 
 fair 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 23.40 
 
 21.00 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 S. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 18 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 19.60 
 
 19.40 
 
 686 
 
 695 
 
 S.W. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 3.5-80 
 
 25.60 
 
 686 
 
 695 
 
 w. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy (17) 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 20.40 
 
 20.00 
 
 687 
 
 697 
 
 N.E. 
 
 I 
 
 overcast 
 
 19 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 19.80 
 
 19.20 
 
 687 
 
 696 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 29.00 
 
 22.60 
 
 688 
 
 697 
 
 N.E. 
 
 2 
 
 jj 
 
 
 9p.m 
 
 21.40 
 
 21.00 
 
 687 
 
 696 
 
 N.W. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 20 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 19.20 
 
 19.20 
 
 687 
 
 696 
 
 N.W. 
 
 
 
 fair 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 30.10 
 
 23.00 
 
 687 
 
 696 
 
 N.W. 
 
 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 21.60 
 
 20.40 
 
 686 
 
 695 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 ,, 
 
 21 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 20.20 
 
 19.80 
 
 686 
 
 697 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 cloudy 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 33-00 
 
 22.80 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 N.E. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 23.60 
 
 21.20 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 22 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 19.40 
 
 18.80 
 
 686 
 
 696 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 „ 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 34.80 
 
 23.00 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 N.E. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 2320 
 
 20.20 
 
 685 
 
 696 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 11 
 
 23 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 19 10 
 
 1S.60 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 33-80 
 
 22.00 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 N.E. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 23.60 
 
 21.80 
 
 6S5 
 
 694 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 24 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 22.60 
 
 20.60 
 
 685 
 
 694 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 33-80 
 
 22.40 
 
 685 
 
 694 
 
 N.E. 
 
 2 
 
 » (isy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 23.00 
 
 21.20 
 
 684 
 
 694 
 
 N.E. 
 
 I 
 
 
 25 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 20.00 
 
 19.80 
 
 684 
 
 693 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 34-60 
 
 23-60 
 
 682 
 
 692 
 
 N. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 22.00 
 
 20.40 
 
 684 
 
 693 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 26 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 23.20 
 
 20.60 
 
 685 
 
 696 
 
 N.W. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 34.10 
 
 25.00 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 N.W. 
 
 2 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 25.00 
 
 22.40 
 
 687 
 
 696 
 
 N.W. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 27 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 20.40 
 
 20.00 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 35-20 
 
 25.40 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 W. 
 
 2 
 
 ,> (19) 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 22.40 
 
 20.80 
 
 685 
 
 694 
 
 N.W. 1 
 
 
 
 cloudy 
 
 28 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 21.00 
 
 20.40 
 
 685 
 
 694 
 
 N.W. 1 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 36.00 
 
 26.20 
 
 685 
 
 694 
 
 N.W. i 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 25.20 
 
 23.20 
 
 685 
 
 694 
 
 N.W. 1 
 
 
 
 „ (20) 
 
 29 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 21.20 
 
 20.00 
 
 684 
 
 693 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 37-60 1 
 
 25.10 
 
 684 
 
 693 
 
 E. 
 
 2 
 
 rather cloudy (2 1 ) 
 
 . 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 22.80 ! 
 
 1 
 
 21.60 
 
 68 1 
 
 691 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 overcast
 
 METEOR OL O C'JCAL OBSER I 'A TIONS. 
 
 447 
 
 DvY. 
 
 IIOUI!. 
 
 Hygeomltku. 
 
 Ankhoid 
 Bakomktkk. 
 
 Wind. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 . 
 
 Rkmaukk. 
 
 
 
 Wet. 
 
 Dry. 
 
 No I. 
 
 No. =. 
 
 Direc- 
 tion. 
 
 
 
 
 1S84 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Mar. 30 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 20.00° 
 
 19-40' 
 
 684 
 
 693 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 31.20 
 
 25.40 
 
 685 
 
 694 
 
 N.W. 
 
 I 
 
 ,j 
 
 
 9 ji.m. 
 
 23.20 
 
 21.80 
 
 684 
 
 694 
 
 N.W. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 31 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 21.60 
 
 21.20 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 32.60 
 
 25.40 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 N.W. 
 
 2 
 
 „ (22) 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 18.80 
 
 1S.60 
 
 686 
 
 695 
 
 N.E. 
 
 I 
 
 cloudy 
 
 April I 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 19.00 
 
 1 8.80 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 overcast 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 36.60 
 
 25.80 
 
 684 
 
 693 
 
 N.E. 
 
 I 
 
 fair 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 22.80 
 
 20.60 
 
 685 
 
 69s 
 
 S. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 2 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 19.60 
 
 19.20 
 
 684 
 
 694 
 
 S.E. 
 
 I 
 
 cloudy (23) 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 32.10 
 
 25.40 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 s.w. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 24.20 
 
 22.60 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 ,, 
 
 3 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 21.20 
 
 19.80 
 
 686 
 
 697 
 
 N.W. 
 
 I 
 
 ,. (24) 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 32.20 
 
 25.00 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 W. 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 q p.m. 
 
 18.20 
 
 18.00 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 N.W. 
 
 
 
 ," (25) 
 
 4 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 17.40 
 
 17.20 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 31.40 
 
 25.40 
 
 685 
 
 696 
 
 W. 
 
 I 
 
 fair 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 21.60 
 
 20.60 
 
 686 
 
 696 
 
 N.W. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 5 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 20.20 
 
 19.00 
 
 685 
 
 69s 
 
 N.W. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 33-00 
 
 25.00 
 
 686 
 
 695 
 
 N.E. 
 
 I 
 
 „ (26) 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 19.40 
 
 19.20 
 
 686 
 
 696 
 
 W. 
 
 I 
 
 
 6 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 18.20 
 
 18.20 
 
 687 
 
 697 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 33-40 
 
 23.40 
 
 687 
 
 696 
 
 N.W. 
 
 I 
 
 fair 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 23.00 
 
 20.60 
 
 685 
 
 697 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy {27) 
 
 7 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 22.00 
 
 21.00 
 
 688 
 
 698 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 34.80 
 
 24.40 
 
 687 
 
 697 
 
 N.W. 
 
 I 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 23.40 
 
 21.40 
 
 686 
 
 696 
 
 S.W. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 8 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 21.40 
 
 20.40 
 
 685 
 
 696 
 
 S.E. 
 
 
 
 ,j 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 36.40 
 
 25.10 
 
 686 
 
 696 
 
 N.E. 
 
 I 
 
 fair 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 23.40 
 
 19.80 
 
 686 
 
 697 
 
 S.W. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy (28) 
 
 9 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 21.00 
 
 19.60 
 
 686 
 
 697 
 
 w. 
 
 I 
 
 cloudy 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 32.60 
 
 24.80 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 w. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy (29) 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 18.00 
 
 17.40 
 
 689 
 
 699 
 
 N.E. 
 
 I 
 
 cloudy 
 
 lO 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 19.40 
 
 19.20 
 
 686 
 
 696 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 32.60 
 
 24.40 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 N.W. 
 
 I 
 
 fair 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 22.40 
 
 21.40 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 N.W. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 II 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 22.40 
 
 20.80 
 
 686 
 
 696 
 
 W. 
 
 I 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 36.00 
 
 26.20 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 S.W. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy (30) 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 20.40 
 
 19.60 
 
 685 
 
 696 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 ,, 
 
 12 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 19.60 
 
 19.40 
 
 6S5 
 
 695 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 fair 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 33-co 
 
 25.60 
 
 685 
 
 694 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 23.40 
 
 22.00 
 
 685 
 
 694 
 
 N.W. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 13 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 21.40 
 
 19.90 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 N.W. 
 
 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 26.80 
 
 23.00 
 
 683 
 
 693 
 
 N.E. 
 
 I 
 
 cloudy (31) 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 20.80 
 
 20.40 
 
 684 
 
 694 
 
 S.E. 
 
 I 
 
 overcast 
 
 14 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 20.60 
 
 20.00 
 
 686 
 
 697 
 
 S.W. 
 
 I 
 
 cloudy 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 28.60 
 
 23.80 
 
 686 
 
 695 
 
 w. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 18.40 
 
 17.80 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 S.E. 
 
 I 
 
 overcast (32) 
 
 15 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 19.80 
 
 19.20 
 
 686 
 
 696 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 fair 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 21.80 
 
 21.60 
 
 686 
 
 697 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy (33) 
 
 
 9P.D1. 
 
 21.40 
 
 20.60 
 
 686 
 
 697 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 fair 
 
 16 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 20.20 
 
 19.80 
 
 6S7 
 
 697 
 
 S. 
 
 I 
 
 •rather cloudy 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 26.60 
 
 24.20 
 
 687 
 
 698 
 
 N.W. 
 
 I 
 
 „ ' (34) 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 20.80 
 
 20.40 
 
 686 
 
 696 
 
 N.W. 
 
 
 
 clear
 
 44^ 
 
 METEOR OL O GICAL OBSER VA TIOXS. 
 
 Day. 
 
 IIOIR. 
 
 IItgromkter. 
 
 Anekoid 
 Babometek. 
 
 Wind. 
 
 
 Wet. 
 
 Dry. 
 
 No. 1. 
 
 No. 2. 
 
 Direc- 
 tion. 
 
 
 Keuahks. 
 
 1884 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 April 17 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 19.80° 
 
 20.00^ 
 
 687 
 
 698 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 33-60 
 
 25.40 
 
 685 
 
 696 
 
 N.E. 
 
 I 
 
 fair 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 22.40 
 
 22.00 
 
 686 
 
 697 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 18 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 19.20 
 
 19.40 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 • > • 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 33-00 
 
 24.80 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 N.E. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 22.20 
 
 21.60 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 19 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 17.80 
 
 17.80 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 34.60 
 
 24.60 
 
 685 
 
 694 
 
 N.E. 
 
 I 
 
 fair 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 23.60 
 
 21.40 
 
 684 
 
 694 
 
 N.W. 
 
 
 
 „ (35) 
 
 20 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 19.60 
 
 19.20 
 
 684 
 
 695 
 
 N.W. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 36.80 
 
 26.20 
 
 684 
 
 694 
 
 S.E. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 21.80 
 
 20.60 
 
 684 
 
 694 
 
 s.w. 
 
 
 
 » (36) 
 
 21 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 21.20 
 
 20.20 
 
 684 
 
 694 
 
 S.E. 
 
 
 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 33-60 
 
 24.40 
 
 684 
 
 694 
 
 N.W. 
 
 I 
 
 I (37.) 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 21.20 
 
 21.00 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 S.E. 
 
 I 
 
 overca.st 
 
 22 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 20.60 
 
 20.00 
 
 686 
 
 696 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 cloudy 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 28.40 
 
 23.40 
 
 686 
 
 696 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 20.20 
 
 19.80 
 
 686 
 
 696 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 23 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 19.60 
 
 19.60 
 
 686 
 
 697 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 26.80 
 
 24.20 
 
 685 
 
 697 
 
 N. 
 
 I 
 
 » (38) 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 20.60 
 
 19.60 
 
 685 
 
 697 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 cloudy 
 
 24 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 20.00 
 
 19.40 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 29.80 
 
 24.00 
 
 684 
 
 694 
 
 N.E. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy (39) 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 20.40 
 
 20.20 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 E. 
 
 I 
 
 overcast 
 
 25 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 20.20 
 
 20.00 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 24.80 
 
 22.40 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 W. 
 
 ^ 
 
 cloudy (40) 
 
 
 9pm. 
 
 19.20 
 
 19.20 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 S.W. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 26 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 19.20 
 
 18.80 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 w. 
 
 
 
 fair 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 30.40 
 
 24.00 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 s.w 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 22.00 
 
 21.20 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 » (41) 
 
 27 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 18.40 
 
 18.40 
 
 687 
 
 697 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 overcast 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 21.20 
 
 21.00 
 
 686 
 
 698 
 
 S.W. 
 
 
 
 cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 19.20 
 
 18.80 
 
 686 
 
 696 
 
 N.W. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 28 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 18.20 
 
 18.20 
 
 686 
 
 697 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 32.80 
 
 26.00 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 N.W. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 20.60 
 
 19.60 
 
 687 
 
 697 
 
 E. 
 
 I 
 
 cloudy 
 
 29 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 19.00 
 
 19.00 
 
 685 
 
 696 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 fair 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 32.80 
 
 24.40 
 
 685 
 
 696 
 
 S.E. 
 
 I 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 21.40 
 
 20.80 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 N.W. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 30 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 20.40 
 
 20.20 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 ., 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 34.00 
 
 25.00 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 S.E. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 21.80 
 
 21 49 
 
 684 
 
 694 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 clear (42) 
 
 May I 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 19.60 
 
 19.40 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 23.20 
 
 25.60 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 N.W. 
 
 I 
 
 faVr 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 21.00 
 
 19.60 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 S.W. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 2 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 21.00 
 
 20.60 
 
 687 
 
 697 
 
 N.W. 
 
 
 
 ,j 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 33-20 
 
 24.80 
 
 686 
 
 696 
 
 S.W. 
 
 2 
 
 ,j 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 20.80 
 
 20.00 
 
 686 
 
 696 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 fair 
 
 3 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 20.80 
 
 20.40 
 
 687 
 
 697 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 34-40 
 
 24.80 
 
 686 
 
 696 
 
 S.E. 
 
 I 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 22.00 
 
 21.40 
 
 686 
 
 696 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 4 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 21.40 
 
 20.80 
 
 686 
 
 696 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 V 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 37-40 
 
 26.20 
 
 686 
 
 696 
 
 N.W. 
 
 I 
 
 fair 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 2320 
 
 22.40 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 W. 
 
 
 
 >, (43)
 
 METEOROLOGICAL 0J3SER VA TIONS. 
 
 449 
 
 Day. 
 
 Hour. 
 
 HVGKOMEIKR. 
 
 Ankuoid 
 Bahometek. 
 
 Wind. 
 
 
 Wet. 
 
 Dry. 
 
 No. 1. 
 
 No. 2. 
 
 Direc- 
 
 
 
 I{i;m.\i(ks. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 tion. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 Ck 
 
 
 i«84 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 May 5 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 20.6o° 20.00° 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 S.E. 
 
 I 
 
 cloudy i'44) 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 30.40 24. 20 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 s. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 20.00 19.80 
 
 686 
 
 696 
 
 S.E. 
 
 
 
 cloudy (45) 
 
 6 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 20.20 ! 19.80 
 
 686 
 
 696 
 
 S.E. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 28.60 24.20 
 
 686 
 
 696 
 
 E. 
 
 I 
 
 'J 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 20.40 20.20 
 
 687 
 
 697 
 
 S 
 
 I 
 
 ff 
 
 7 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 20.20 i 19.80 
 
 686 
 
 697 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 }) 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 31.60 1 24.60 
 
 687 
 
 697 
 
 N.W. 
 
 I 
 
 „ (46) 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 21.00 
 
 20.80 
 
 687 
 
 697 
 
 N.E. 
 
 I 
 
 cloudy 
 
 S 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 20.00 
 
 19.40 
 
 686 
 
 697 
 
 N.E. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 32.80 
 
 24.00 
 
 686 
 
 696 
 
 N.E. 
 
 I 
 
 J, 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 22.40 
 
 22.00 
 
 689 
 
 699 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 9 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 20.40 
 
 20.40 
 
 686 
 
 696 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 36.20 
 
 25.40 
 
 686 
 
 697 
 
 S.E. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 22.40 
 
 21.80 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 N.W. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 lO 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 20.40 
 
 20.20 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 2 p m. 
 
 37.20 
 
 25.80 
 
 685 
 
 696 
 
 N.E. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 22.40 
 
 21.60 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 clear (47) 
 
 II 
 
 7 ii-m. 
 
 19.60 
 
 19.60 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy (481 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 30.40 
 
 24.20 
 
 686 
 
 697 
 
 S.E. 
 
 I 
 
 . (49) 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 19.40 
 
 19.40 
 
 688 
 
 698 
 
 S.E. 
 
 I 
 
 oyercast 
 
 12 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 19.80 
 
 19.60 
 
 687 
 
 697 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 34.00 
 
 24.80 
 
 686 
 
 697 
 
 S.E. 
 
 I 
 
 fair 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 22.80 
 
 22.40 
 
 686 
 
 696 
 
 NE. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 13 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 22.40 
 
 22.20 
 
 687 
 
 698 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 2 jD.m. 
 
 36.20 
 
 26.00 
 
 687 
 
 697 
 
 S.E. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 23.00 
 
 22.20 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 s.w. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 14 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 21.20 
 
 20.80 
 
 686 
 
 697 
 
 S.E. 
 
 
 
 jj 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 33-40 
 
 26.00 
 
 686 
 
 697 
 
 s. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 23.60 
 
 21.60 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 s. 
 
 I 
 
 . (50) 
 
 15 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 20.20 
 
 20.20 
 
 687 
 
 697 
 
 NE. 
 
 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 32.40 
 
 25.40 
 
 686 
 
 696 
 
 S.E. 
 
 I 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 22.80 
 
 21.20 
 
 686 
 
 696 
 
 S.E. 
 
 I 
 
 n (50 
 
 i6 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 19.00 
 
 19.00 
 
 680 
 
 699 
 
 S.E. 
 
 I 
 
 overcast 
 
 
 2 p m. 
 
 26.20 
 
 23.40 
 
 687 
 
 697 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 18.80 
 
 18.60 
 
 687 
 
 696 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 17 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 17.80 
 
 18.00 
 
 686 
 
 696 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 ., 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 34-40 
 
 25.60 
 
 687 
 
 697 
 
 SE. 
 
 I 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 20.60 
 
 20.20 
 
 687 
 
 697 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 i8 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 20.60 
 
 20.80 ; 
 
 687 
 
 696 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 35-60 
 
 25.60 
 
 686 
 
 696 
 
 N.E. 
 
 I 
 
 i-ather cloudy 
 
 
 9pm. 
 
 21.00 
 
 20.60 ■ 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 ,, 
 
 19 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 19.80 
 
 19.80 j 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 
 .2 p.m. 
 
 36.00 
 
 26.00 1 
 
 686 
 
 695 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 23.40 
 
 21.60 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 S.E. 
 
 I 
 
 cloudy (52) 
 
 20 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 20.60 
 
 20.20 
 
 686 
 
 1,96 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 33-80 
 
 26.40 
 
 686 
 
 695 
 
 N.E. 
 
 I 
 
 „ (53) 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 20.00 
 
 19.00 1 
 
 685 
 
 696 
 
 E. 
 
 I 
 
 
 21 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 19.40 
 
 19.40 , 
 
 687 
 
 697 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 31.20 
 
 24.60 1 
 
 687 
 
 697 
 
 N.E. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 21.80 
 
 21.80 1 
 
 687 
 
 697 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 22 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 20.00 20.20 j 
 
 687 
 
 697 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 fair 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 31.80 25.60 
 
 686 
 
 696 
 
 N.W. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy (54) 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 19.80 20.80 
 
 ! 1 
 
 687 
 
 697 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 cloudy
 
 45° 
 
 METEOROLOGICAL OBSER VA TIONS. 
 
 Day. 
 
 Iloi K. 
 
 Hyguomkikr. 
 
 Aneuoiu 
 IUkometeh. 
 
 1 Wind. 
 
 Remarks. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Wet. 
 
 Dry. 
 
 No. I. 
 
 Nu. 2. 
 
 Direc- 
 tion. 
 
 c 
 
 
 
 1884 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 [^ 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 May 23 
 
 ' 7 a.m. 
 
 21.00' 
 
 20. 20' 
 
 687 
 
 697 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 35-40 
 
 26.60 
 
 686 
 
 696 
 
 N.W. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 22.60 
 
 21.80 
 
 686 
 
 696 
 
 N.W. 
 
 
 
 fair (55) 
 
 ^4 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 20.80 
 
 20.80 
 
 686 
 
 696 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 28.40 
 
 24.40 
 
 685 
 
 694 
 
 N.E. 
 
 I 
 
 cloudy (56) 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 19.20 
 
 19.20 
 
 686 
 
 696 
 
 S.E. 
 
 
 
 ,, 
 
 25 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 19.80 
 
 19.80 
 
 686 
 
 697 
 
 S.E. 
 
 
 
 J, 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 36.00 
 
 25.20 
 
 687 
 
 697 
 
 N.W. 
 
 I 
 
 fair 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 21.80 
 
 21.40 
 
 686 
 
 697 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 26 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 20.20 
 
 19.80 
 
 687 
 
 698 
 
 S.E. 
 
 
 
 „ 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 32.40 
 
 25.80 
 
 687 
 
 697 
 
 N.E. 
 
 I 
 
 . (57) 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 19.40 
 
 19.20 
 
 687 
 
 697 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 27 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 19.00 
 
 18.60 
 
 687 
 
 697 
 
 N. 
 
 I 
 
 cloudy 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 31.80 
 
 25.00 
 
 686 
 
 697 
 
 N. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 21.60 
 
 21.00 
 
 687 
 
 697 
 
 E. 
 
 I 
 
 fair 
 
 28 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 21.20 
 
 20.80 
 
 688 
 
 698 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy (58) 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 28.20 
 
 24.00 
 
 686 
 
 697 
 
 N.W. 
 
 2 
 
 )i ' 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 20.80 
 
 20.60 
 
 686 
 
 696 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 „ 
 
 29 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 21.20 
 
 20.60 
 
 688 
 
 698 
 
 S.E. 
 
 I 
 
 overcast (59) 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 21.00 
 
 20.20 
 
 687 
 
 698 
 
 S. 
 
 I 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 18.00 
 
 17.80 
 
 686 
 
 696 
 
 w. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 30 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 19.00 
 
 19.40 
 
 686 
 
 696 
 
 w. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 31.00 
 
 23.80 
 
 685 
 
 695 
 
 s.w. 
 
 I 
 
 „ 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 20.80 
 
 20.60 
 
 687 
 
 698 
 
 N.W. 
 
 
 
 
 31 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 18.80 
 
 18.80 
 
 690 
 
 700 
 
 N.E. 
 
 I 
 
 overcast (60) 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 23.80 
 
 21.60 
 
 687 
 
 697 
 
 N.W. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 18.20 
 
 17.80 
 
 687 
 
 697 
 
 X.W. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 June I 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 18.40 
 
 18.60 
 
 688 
 
 699 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 fair 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 31.80 
 
 25.60 
 
 688 
 
 697 
 
 N.E. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 20.60 
 
 20.60 
 
 688 
 
 698 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 „ 
 
 2 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 20.00 
 
 20.00 
 
 690 
 
 699 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 >' 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 30.40 
 
 24.60 
 
 689 
 
 698 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 „ 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 19.80 
 
 19.20 
 
 690 
 
 699 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 3 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 19.40 
 
 19.40 
 
 690 
 
 700 
 
 E 
 
 I 
 
 overcast (61) 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 29.40 
 
 24.80 
 
 690 
 
 699 
 
 N.W. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 19.80 
 
 19.40 
 
 688 
 
 698 
 
 W. 
 
 
 
 fair 
 
 4 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 19.40 
 
 19.20 
 
 688 
 
 698 
 
 N.W. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 20.20 
 
 23.20 
 
 690 
 
 700 
 
 N.E. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 21.80 
 
 21.40 
 
 687 
 
 697 
 
 N.W. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 5 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 20.40 
 
 20.00 
 
 690 
 
 699 
 
 N. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 27.80 
 
 23.40 
 
 687 
 
 697 
 
 N.W. 
 
 I 
 
 „ 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 19.80 
 
 19.20 
 
 689 
 
 699 j 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 fair 1 
 
 6 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 17.40 
 
 17.40 
 
 687 
 
 697 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 31.40 
 
 23.80 
 
 689 
 
 699 
 
 N.E. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 21.80 
 
 20.80 
 
 686 
 
 697 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 
 7 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 22.00 
 
 22.00 
 
 687 
 
 697 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 26.60 
 
 23.20 
 
 687 
 
 697 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 fair (62) 
 
 
 9p.m. 
 
 20.40 
 
 20.40 
 
 686 
 
 697 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 8 
 
 7 a.m. 
 2 p.m. 
 9 p.m. 
 
 18.80 
 
 18.80 
 
 686 
 
 697 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 " 
 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 Fro 
 
 lu the 91 1 
 
 1 to I2tli no m 
 
 etcorol 
 
 ogical ( 
 
 ib.^erva 
 
 tious 
 
 were taken.
 
 METEOROLOGICAL OBSER VA TIONS. 
 
 451 
 
 Bellima Station, altitude 2510 feet (765 metres). 
 
 Day. 
 
 HoiR. 
 
 June 13 
 
 14 
 
 7 a.m. 
 2 p.m. 
 9 p.m. 
 7 a.m. 
 2 p.m. 
 9 p.m. 
 
 UVGROMETEK. 
 
 Wit. Drv 
 
 26. 00' 
 22.80 
 
 1 9. So 
 25.60 
 
 20. So 
 
 23.40 
 21. So 
 19.00 
 22.20 
 1 9. So 
 
 Ankroio 
 Baeomktkh. 
 
 Xo. I. 
 
 680 
 6S0 
 081 
 681 
 68 1 
 
 685 
 
 6S5 
 685 
 6S5 
 685 
 
 Wind. 
 
 Direc- 
 tion. 
 
 S.E. 
 N.E 
 
 E. 
 
 E. 
 
 E. 
 
 Kem\hks. 
 
 rather cloudy 
 fail- 
 rather cloudy (63) 
 
 clear 
 
 From the 15th tn lytli no meteorological obscrvation.s were taken. 
 June 18 
 
 19 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 __ 
 
 — 
 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 27.00° 
 
 22. 60-^ 
 
 682 
 
 687 
 
 X.E. 
 
 I 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 21.60 
 
 19. So 
 
 682 
 
 686 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 19.60 
 
 19.40 
 
 681 
 
 687 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 28.20 
 
 22.80 
 
 681 
 
 687 
 
 S.E. 
 
 I 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 21.00 
 
 19.80 
 
 682 
 
 686 
 
 S.E. 
 
 2 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 18.40 
 
 18.40 
 
 681 
 
 685 
 
 N.E. 
 
 I 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 27.60 
 
 22.80 
 
 680 
 
 685 
 
 S.E. 
 
 I 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 22.00 
 
 19.80 
 
 68 1 
 
 686 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy (64) 
 
 clear 
 
 rather cloudv 
 
 fair 
 
 overcast (65) 
 
 clear 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 clear 
 
 From the 21st to 24th no meteorological observations were taken. 
 
 Gadda Station, altitude 2428 feet (740 metres). 
 
 June 25 
 
 26 
 
 27 
 
 28 
 
 29 
 
 30 
 
 July I 
 
 [2 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 21.20° 
 
 19.80° 
 
 689 
 
 699 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 19.80 
 
 19.40 
 
 687 
 
 697 
 
 N.E. 
 
 I 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 29.60 
 
 24.20 
 
 687 
 
 699 
 
 S.E. 
 
 I 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 20.00 
 
 19.80 
 
 688 
 
 699 
 
 S. 
 
 I 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 20.00 
 
 19.80 
 
 689 
 
 698 
 
 E. 
 
 I 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 30.40 
 
 24.00 
 
 687 
 
 697 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 21.60 
 
 21.20 
 
 688 
 
 697 
 
 N.W. 
 
 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 20.80 
 
 20.60 
 
 689 
 
 699 
 
 N.W. 
 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 33-60 
 
 24.40 
 
 688 
 
 698 
 
 X. 
 
 I 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 21.60 
 
 21.20 
 
 687 
 
 697 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 20.60 
 
 20.40 
 
 688 
 
 698 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 32.20 
 
 25.40 
 
 688 
 
 698 
 
 N.W. 
 
 I ' 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 19.20 
 
 19.00 
 
 68S 
 
 69S 
 
 S.E. 
 
 I 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 iS.So 
 
 18.80 
 
 6S9 
 
 700 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 29.80 
 
 25.00 
 
 688 
 
 699 
 
 N.W. 
 
 I 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 19. So 
 
 1S.60 
 
 688 
 
 699 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 19.60 
 
 19.20 
 
 690 
 
 700 
 
 N.W. 
 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 30.20 
 
 23.60 
 
 690 
 
 699 
 
 N.W. 
 
 I 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 19.00 
 
 18.60 
 
 690 
 
 700 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 19.60 
 
 19.40 
 
 690 
 
 700 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 3 1. So 
 
 24.40 
 
 689 
 
 700 
 
 N.W. 
 
 I 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 19.00 
 
 18.80 
 
 689 
 
 700 
 
 N.W. 
 
 I 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 20.00 
 
 19.40 
 
 689 
 
 699 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 30.80 
 
 23.80 
 
 689 
 
 700 
 
 N.W. 
 
 I 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 20.60 
 
 20.00 
 
 689 
 
 699 
 
 N.E. 
 
 I 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 18.60 
 
 18.40 
 
 690 
 
 700 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 31.20 
 
 23.60 
 
 689 
 
 69S 
 
 N.W. 
 
 I 
 
 p.m. 
 
 20.20 
 
 19.80 
 
 690 
 
 700 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy (66) 
 
 fair (67) 
 „ (68) 
 rather cloudy 
 clear 
 
 rather cloudy 
 clear 
 
 rather cloudy 
 clear (69) 
 rather cloudy 
 „ (70) 
 overcast 
 clear 
 
 rather cloudy 
 overcast 
 rather cloudy 
 
 clear 
 
 fair 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 clear 
 
 fair 
 
 rather cloudv 
 
 „ (71)" 
 cloudy (72) 
 rather cloudy 
 clear
 
 452 
 
 . I//: 7 'E OR OL O GICAL OBSER VA TIONS. 
 
 Day. 
 
 IIOVR. 
 
 IlYGItOMKTEH. 
 
 .\nI!HOII> 
 
 IUkomkiee. 
 
 Wind. 
 
 
 AVct, 
 
 Dry. 
 
 No. I. 
 
 No. 2. 
 
 Direc- 
 tion. 
 
 U4 
 
 Kkm.vuks. 
 
 1884 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 July 5 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 20. 40° 
 
 20. 20° 
 
 689 
 
 699 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 27.60 
 
 23.00 
 
 689 
 
 609 
 
 N.E. 
 
 I 
 
 „ (73) 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 19.80 
 
 18.80 
 
 689 
 
 698 
 
 N.E. 
 
 I 
 
 cloudy (74) 
 
 6 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 18.00 
 
 17.80 
 
 689 
 
 697 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 30.80 
 
 24.00 
 
 690 
 
 700 
 
 K. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 21.80 
 
 20.00 
 
 690 
 
 699 
 
 S.E. 
 
 2 
 
 cloudy (75) 
 
 7 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 17.60 
 
 17.80 
 
 689 
 
 699 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 34.00 
 
 24.60 
 
 688 
 
 698 
 
 N.W. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 21.40 
 
 IQ.80 
 
 689 
 
 699 
 
 N.W. 
 
 I 
 
 ,, 
 
 8 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 18.80 
 
 18.40 
 
 690 
 
 699 
 
 S. 
 
 I 
 
 „ (76) 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 30.40 
 
 24.40 
 
 688 
 
 698 
 
 N.E. 
 
 I 
 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 19.60 
 
 19.60 
 
 687 
 
 697 
 
 N.W. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 9 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 20.40 
 
 20.40 
 
 689 
 
 699 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 32.20 
 
 23.40 
 
 688 
 
 698 
 
 N.E. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9p.m. 
 
 21.80 
 
 21.40 
 
 687 
 
 696 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 10 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 18.80 
 
 18.40 
 
 689 
 
 699 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 cloudy (77) 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 30.40 
 
 23.20 
 
 689 
 
 699 
 
 S.E. 
 
 I 
 
 fair 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 19.60 
 
 19.40 
 
 687 
 
 697 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 II 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 19.20 
 
 18.80 
 
 687 
 
 697 
 
 S.E. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 34-40 
 
 25.20 
 
 686 
 
 695 
 
 S. 
 
 I 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 21.00 
 
 21.00 
 
 686 
 
 695 
 
 S.E 
 
 I 
 
 fair 
 
 12 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 21.80 
 
 21.00 
 
 686 
 
 697 
 
 N.K. 
 
 
 
 „ 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 31.40 
 
 24.60 
 
 687 
 
 697 
 
 N.W. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 21.20 
 
 20.60 
 
 687 
 
 697 
 
 NE. 
 
 
 
 jj 
 
 13 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 19 60 
 
 19.60 
 
 688 
 
 698 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 overcast (78) 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 34-40 
 
 26.20 
 
 687 
 
 697 
 
 N.W. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 19.80 
 
 19.60 
 
 687 
 
 697 
 
 N 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 14 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 17.60 
 
 17.60 
 
 687 
 
 697 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 fair 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 32.40 
 
 248.. 
 
 687 
 
 697 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 20.80 
 
 20.40 
 
 686 
 
 696 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 IS 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 19.80 
 
 19.60 
 
 687 
 
 698 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 fair 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 27.40 
 
 23.20 
 
 687 
 
 697 
 
 N.W. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy (79) 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 18.80 
 
 18.80 
 
 688 
 
 699 
 
 S.E. 
 
 I 
 
 overcast 
 
 16 
 
 7 a.m.. 
 
 19.80 
 
 19.40 
 
 688 
 
 699 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 2540 
 
 21.80 
 
 687 
 
 698 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 „ 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 18.60 
 
 18.40 
 
 687 
 
 698 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 17 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 19.20 
 
 19.20 
 
 688 
 
 699 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 31.00 
 
 23.40 
 
 688 
 
 698 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 „ 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 21.00 
 
 20. So 
 
 688 
 
 699 
 
 N.W. 
 
 
 
 clear
 
 NOTES OX THE METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS 
 IX MAMBETTU. 
 
 1. Rain from 10 P.M. till 11 P.M. 
 
 2. Thunder and lightning, strong N.W. wind with rain from 4 P. >r. till 5 P. M. 
 
 3. Eain from 4 A.M. till 5 A.M. 
 
 4. Thunder and lightning in the west. 
 
 5. Rain from 4 P.M. till 4.30 P.M. 
 
 6. Rain from 3 A.M. till 4 P.M. 
 
 7. Lightning in the south. 
 
 8. Rain from 6 P.M. till 8 P.M. 
 
 9. Rain from 6 P.M. till 8 p.m. with south-east wind. 
 
 10. Lightning in the south-east. 
 
 11. Thunder and lightning, strong east wind with rain from :J p.ji. till 4 p.m. 
 
 12. Lightning in the north-east. 
 
 13. Thunder and lightning in the north-west. 
 
 14. Thunder and lightning, south-west wind with rain from 12 mid-day 
 
 till 3 p.m. 
 
 15. Lightning in the north-east. 
 
 16. Thunder and lightning, strong north-east wind with rain from 5 P.M. 
 
 tin 11 P.M. 
 
 17. Rain from 2 P.M. till 3 P.M. 
 
 18. Thunder and lightning, easterly wind with rain from 7 p.m. till 8 P.M. 
 
 19. Lightning in the north. 
 
 20. Thunder and lightning, easterly wind with rain from o r.M. till 10 P.M. 
 
 21. Thunder and lightning, strong east wind with rain from (3 P.M. till 
 
 10 P.M. 
 
 22. Thunder and lightning in the south-east ; thunder and lightning, south- 
 
 east wind with rain from 10 P.M. till 4 a.m. 
 
 23. Lightning in the north. 
 
 24. Thunder and lightning, strong north-east wind with rain from 4 p.m. 
 
 till 8 P.M. 
 
 25. Rain from 4 p.m. till 5 P.M. 
 
 26. Rain from (5 P.M. till 6.30 P.M. 
 
 27. Thunder and lightning in the south-west. 
 
 28. Thunder and lightning, with rain from 7 A.M. till 10 A.M. 
 
 29. Thunder and lightning, east wind with rain from 4 P.M. till 6 P..M. 
 
 30. Thunder and lightning, east wind with rain from 3 P.M. till 6 p.m. 
 
 31. Rain from 7 P.M. till 10 p.m. 
 
 32. Rain from 10 A.M. till 1 P.M. 
 
 33. Rain from 11 A.M. till 12 mid-day. 
 
 34. Lightning in the south-east. 
 
 35. Rain from 4 p.m. till 5 p.m.
 
 454 NOTES ON OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 36. Thunder and lightning with rain from p.m. till 11 p.m. 
 
 37. Thunder in the north-ea.'^t. 
 
 38. Rain with south-east wind from 4 p.m. till !» p.-M. 
 
 39. Rain from 1 p.m. till 3 p.m. 
 
 40. Thunder and lightning, south-east wind with rain from 10 P.M. till 1 p.m. 
 
 on the 27th. 
 
 41. Rain from 3 P.M. till 4 p.m. 
 
 42. Lightning in the north-east. 
 
 43. Rain from 3 A.m. till (3 P.M. 
 
 44. Rain from 5 P.M. till 11 P.M. 
 
 45. Thunder and lightning, east wind with rain from 7 P.M. till 11 P.M. 
 
 46. Thunder and lightning with rain from 2 a.m. till .5 A.M. 
 
 47. Thunder and lightning with rain from 8 P.M. till 11 P.M. 
 
 48. Lightning in the east ; thunder and lightning with rain from 10 P.M. 
 
 till 3 A.M. 
 
 49. Lightning in the south-east ; thunder and lightning with rain from 
 
 10 P.M. till 11 A.M. 
 
 50. Lightning in the north and south. 
 
 51. Thunder and lightning with rain from 7 P.M. till 8 P.M. 
 
 52. Rain from 3 P.M. till 4 P.M. 
 
 53. Lightning in the south-east. 
 
 54. Thunder and lightning with rain from 1.30 P.M. till 10 P.M. 
 
 55. Thunder and lightning, south-east wind with rain from 3 P.M. till 5 P.M. 
 
 56. Rain from 7 A.M. till 10 A.M. 
 
 57. Rain from 7 A. jr. till 2 P.M. 
 
 58. Rain from 2 A.M. till 11 A.M. 
 
 59. Rain from 3 A.M. till 8 A.M. 
 
 60. Rain from 10 A.M. till 11 a.m. 
 ■1)1. Lightning in the south. 
 
 62. Rain from 10 A.M. till 11 A.M. 
 
 63. Thunder in the south. 
 
 64. Thunder and lightning in the south. 
 
 65. Thunder and lightning in the north. 
 
 66. Rain from 4 p.m. till 6 pm. 
 
 67. Lightning in the east. 
 
 68. Thunder and lightning with rain from 3 A.M. till 5 a.m. 
 
 69. Thunder and lightning, south-east wind with rain from 7 P.M. till 10 P.M. 
 
 70. Thunder and lightning, south-east wind with rain from 7 A.M. till 2 P.M. 
 
 71. Lightning in the north-west. 
 
 72. Rain from 3 A.M. till 9 A.M. 
 
 73. Thunder in the east. 
 
 74. Rain from 5 P.M. till 10 P.M. 
 
 75. Lightning in the south ; thunder and lightning with rain from 9.30 P.M 
 
 till 11 P.M. 
 
 76. Thunder and lightning, south-east wind with rain from 12 p.Ji. till 6 A.M. 
 
 77. Thunder and lightning, south-east wind with i-ain from 3 A.M. till 8 a.m. 
 
 78. Rain from 3 a.m. till 8.30 -\.M. 
 
 79. Thunder and lightning with rain from 5 P.M. till 11 P.M.
 
 METEOROLOG fCAL OBSER VA TIONS. 
 
 455 
 
 JuAYA Station, Altitude, 3600 feet (iioo metues). 
 
 
 
 Hygkomkier. 
 
 Aneuoii) 
 
 B A. BO MET Kit. 
 
 Wind. 
 
 
 Day. 
 
 Hour. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Rejiauk.s. 
 
 
 
 Wet. 
 
 Dry. 
 
 Xo. I. 
 
 No. 2. 
 
 Direc- 
 tiuii. 
 
 p 
 
 
 1887 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Jan. I 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 19.40° 
 
 17.60' 
 
 645 
 
 655 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 fair 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 31.00 
 
 26.60 
 
 644 
 
 652 
 
 E. 
 
 I 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 21.40 
 
 21.20 
 
 645 
 
 654 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 2 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 18.00 
 
 16.60 
 
 944 
 
 658 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 1, 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 29.00 
 
 24.60 
 
 644 
 
 657 
 
 E. 
 
 2 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 18.80 
 
 19.00 
 
 645 
 
 655 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 ij 
 
 3 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 18.60 
 
 16.80 
 
 645 
 
 656 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 fair 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 30.20 
 
 26.40 
 
 643 
 
 653 
 
 E. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 18.80 
 
 19.20 
 
 643 
 
 654 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 4 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 18.40 
 
 17.00 
 
 645 
 
 655 
 
 N.E. 
 
 I 
 
 ,j 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 26.60 
 
 25.60 
 
 643 
 
 653 
 
 E. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 19.60 
 
 19.80 
 
 644 
 
 653 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 5 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 19.80 
 
 18.60 
 
 644 
 
 654 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 fair 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 30.00 
 
 25.00 
 
 643 
 
 653 
 
 N.E. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 20.60 
 
 20.60 
 
 645 
 
 655 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 6 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 19.60 
 
 18.80 
 
 644 
 
 655 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy (i) 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 30.00 
 
 25.80 
 
 644 
 
 653 
 
 E. 
 
 I 
 
 J, 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 18.80 
 
 19.20 
 
 644 
 
 654 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 7 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 19.40 
 
 18.60 
 
 647 
 
 657 
 
 E. 
 
 I 
 
 cloudy (2) 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 29.20 
 
 25.89 
 
 645 
 
 655 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 18.60 
 
 19.00 
 
 645 
 
 655 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 8 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 18.60 
 
 18.60 
 
 647 
 
 657 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 cloud V (3) 
 
 
 2 p. m. 
 
 18.00 
 
 17.80 
 
 645 
 
 656 
 
 S.E. 
 
 I 
 
 n (4) 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 16.60 
 
 16.80 
 
 645 
 
 656 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 9 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 17.20 
 
 16.40 
 
 646 
 
 646 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 29.80 
 
 26.00 
 
 645 
 
 655 
 
 E. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 21.00 
 
 21.20 
 
 645 
 
 655 
 
 N. 
 
 I 
 
 clear 
 
 10 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 20.00 
 
 19.80 
 
 646 
 
 657 
 
 N.W. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudv 
 
 ' 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 29.60 
 
 26.60 
 
 645 
 
 654 
 
 N.E. 
 
 I 
 
 .. (5) ■ 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 19.80 
 
 19.60 
 
 645 
 
 655 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 cloudy 
 
 i( 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 20.20 
 
 19.20 
 
 646 
 
 656 
 
 N. 
 
 I 
 
 fair 
 
 
 2 p. m. 
 
 26. Xo 
 
 24.20 
 
 645 
 
 655 
 
 N.W. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy (6) 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 1680 
 
 17.00 
 
 645 
 
 656 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 (;lear 
 
 12 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 16.00 
 
 15.20 
 
 648 
 
 657 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 23.00 
 
 22.40 
 
 648 
 
 659 
 
 S.E. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy (7) 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 17.40 
 
 17.60 
 
 645 
 
 656 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 13 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 17.00 
 
 16.20 
 
 647 
 
 659 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 31.00 
 
 25.80 
 
 645 
 
 655 
 
 N.E. 
 
 I 
 
 fair 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 18.80 
 
 18.80 
 
 645 
 
 655 
 
 N. 
 
 I 
 
 clear 
 
 14 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 18.40 
 
 16.40 
 
 646 
 
 657 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 ., 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 26.20 
 
 23.60 
 
 645 
 
 655 
 
 E. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 17.80 
 
 [7.20 
 
 645 
 
 655 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 15 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 17.40 
 
 16.40 
 
 645 
 
 656 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 30.00 
 
 26.00 
 
 645 
 
 655 
 
 N.E. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy (8) 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 18.80 
 
 [8.80 
 
 644 
 
 652 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 „ 
 
 16 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 19.00 
 
 18.20 
 
 645 
 
 655 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 29.00 
 
 25.60 
 
 644 
 
 655 
 
 N.W. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy (9) 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 19.80 
 
 [9.20 
 
 645 
 
 655 
 
 N. 
 
 i 
 
 clear 
 
 17 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 18.40 
 
 17.60 
 
 645 
 
 657 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 fair 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 19.20 
 
 18.40 
 
 644 
 
 654 
 
 E. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy (10) 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 17.60 
 
 17.60 
 
 645 
 
 657 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 fair
 
 456 
 
 METEOROLOGICAL OBSER VA TIONS. 
 
 Dat. 
 
 Hour. 
 
 HTGBOilETEE. 
 
 Axe 
 Baroji 
 
 ROID 
 ETEB. 
 
 Wind. 
 
 
 
 Wet. 
 
 Dry. 
 
 No. I. 
 
 Xo. 2. 
 
 Direc- 
 
 i 
 
 IJemakks. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 tion. 
 
 g 
 
 
 — 
 
 1887 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Jan. 18 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 18.00° 
 
 17.40° 
 
 648 
 
 658 
 
 N.E. 
 
 I 
 
 cloudy 
 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 23.20 
 
 20.40 
 
 645 
 
 655 
 
 N.W. 
 
 I 
 
 fair (11) 
 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 19.20 
 
 19.00 
 
 645 
 
 656 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 19 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 19.00 
 
 18.20 
 
 647 
 
 658 
 
 N.W. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 21.20 
 
 19.80 
 
 645 
 
 656 
 
 N. 
 
 r 
 
 >> 
 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 17.40 
 
 17.40 
 
 645 
 
 657 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 20 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 18.40 
 
 17.40 
 
 649 
 
 658 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 jj 
 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 24.20 
 
 28.00 
 
 647 
 
 657 
 
 N.W. 
 
 I 
 
 fair 
 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 17.40 
 
 17.20 
 
 646 
 
 657 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 
 21 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 16.60 
 
 15.80 
 
 647 
 
 657 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 27.00 
 
 24.60 
 
 646 
 
 657 
 
 N.E. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy (i 
 
 2) 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 15.80 
 
 16.60 
 
 645 
 
 656 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 
 22 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 15.80 
 
 14.80 
 
 647 
 
 657 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 „ 
 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 26.20 
 
 23.40 
 
 645 
 
 656 
 
 N.W. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 18.60 
 
 18.40 
 
 646 
 
 658 
 
 N. 
 
 I 
 
 fair 
 
 
 23 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 16.80 
 
 15.60 
 
 647 
 
 657 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 25.60 
 
 21.80 
 
 647 
 
 658 
 
 N.W. 
 
 I 
 
 fair 
 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 15.80 
 
 16.20 
 
 645 
 
 656 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 
 24 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 15.80 
 
 14.80 
 
 647 
 
 657 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 27.00 
 
 23.20 
 
 647 
 
 657 
 
 N.W. 
 
 I 
 
 fair 
 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 15.40 
 
 15.80 
 
 645 
 
 656 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 
 25 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 18.40 
 
 16.40 
 
 647 
 
 657 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 27.20 
 
 22.80 
 
 647 
 
 658 
 
 W. 
 
 I 
 
 fair 
 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 16.60 
 
 16.60 
 
 646 
 
 658 
 
 X. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 
 26 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 14.60 
 
 13.20 
 
 647 
 
 658 
 
 w. 
 
 
 
 fair 
 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 25.80 
 
 22.00 
 
 647 
 
 657 
 
 N.W. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 16.00 
 
 16.00 
 
 646 
 
 657 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 
 27 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 14.80 
 
 13.40 
 
 648 
 
 659 
 
 X.W. 
 
 
 
 ,. 
 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 26.80 
 
 23.40 
 
 647 
 
 657 
 
 x.w. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 16.60 
 
 16.80 
 
 646 
 
 658 
 
 X.W. 
 
 
 
 ,. 
 
 
 28 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 16.00 
 
 14.40 
 
 647 
 
 658 
 
 X.E. 
 
 
 
 fair 
 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 25.80 
 
 22.20 
 
 645 
 
 656 
 
 X.W. 
 
 I 
 
 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 15.20 
 
 15.40 
 
 646 
 
 659 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 
 29 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 15.20 
 
 13.60 
 
 647 
 
 659 
 
 N.W. 
 
 
 
 ,. 
 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 28.00 
 
 22.40 
 
 647 
 
 657 
 
 X.W. 
 
 I 
 
 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 1 8. 20 
 
 18.20 
 
 646 
 
 658 
 
 X.E. 
 
 I 
 
 fair 
 
 
 30 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 15.80 
 
 15.40 
 
 649 
 
 659 
 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 26.20 
 
 21.80 
 
 648 
 
 657 
 
 X.W. 
 
 I 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 15.40 
 
 15.80 
 
 647 
 
 657 
 
 X. 
 
 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 31 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 16.80 
 
 14.80 
 
 647 
 
 659 
 
 X. 
 
 
 
 „ 
 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 29.00 
 
 21.40 
 
 646 
 
 656 
 
 w. 
 
 I 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 16.40 
 
 14.80 
 
 645 
 
 655 
 
 X. 
 
 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 Feb. I 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 16.40 
 
 13.20 
 
 646 
 
 657 
 
 X. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 29.40 
 
 24.00 
 
 645 
 
 656 
 
 X. 
 
 I ; 
 
 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 15.60 
 
 15.40 
 
 645 
 
 656 
 
 X. 
 
 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 15.20 
 
 12.80 
 
 647 
 
 657 
 
 X. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 29.80 
 
 22.60 
 
 645 
 
 656 
 
 w. 
 
 2 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 16.00 
 
 15.60 
 
 645 
 
 657 
 
 X. 
 
 
 
 „ 
 
 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 16.80 
 
 14.80 
 
 647 
 
 657 
 
 X. 
 
 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 29.20 
 
 22.20 
 
 646 
 
 657 
 
 w. 
 
 I 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 15.40 
 
 15.40 
 
 646 
 
 656 
 
 X. 
 
 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 4 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 13.60 
 
 12.40 
 
 647 
 
 658 
 
 N.W. 
 
 I 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 30.00 
 
 24.80 
 
 645 
 
 656 
 
 w. 
 
 I 
 
 „ 
 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 16.60 
 
 16.20 
 
 645 
 
 655 
 
 X. 
 
 
 
 )) 

 
 METEOROLOGICAL OBSER VATIONS. 
 
 457 
 
 
 
 Htgkometee. 
 
 Ankboiu 
 
 Wind. I 
 
 
 Day. 
 
 IIOUK. 
 
 
 B.iKOMEri:R. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Kemakks. 
 
 
 
 Wet. Dry. 
 
 No. I. 
 
 No. 2. 
 
 Direi-- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 tioii. 
 
 
 
 
 1S87 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Feb. 5 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 14.80° 12.60° 
 
 647 
 
 658 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 31.40 123.80 
 
 647 
 
 657 
 
 N.W. 
 
 I 
 
 ^^ 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 16.60 16.20 
 
 645 
 
 656 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 „ 
 
 6 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 1 3. 60 1 1 1 . 80 
 
 648 
 
 659 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 ,j 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 31.40 24.40 
 
 647 
 
 657 
 
 N.W. 
 
 2 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 15.60 1 15.60 
 
 645 
 
 655 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 „ 
 
 7 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 13.40 
 
 11.20 
 
 648 
 
 658 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 J, 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 31.60 
 
 24.40 
 
 646 
 
 657 
 
 N.W. 
 
 1 
 
 ,j 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 15.80 
 
 15.80 
 
 645 
 
 655 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 „ 
 
 8 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 14.80 
 
 13.40 
 
 647 
 
 657 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 32.40 
 
 24.80 
 
 647 
 
 656 
 
 W. 
 
 2 
 
 „ 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 12.20 
 
 11.40 
 
 645 
 
 656 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 „ 
 
 9 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 16.40 
 
 14.40 
 
 648 
 
 658 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 31.60 
 
 24.20 
 
 647 
 
 658 
 
 N.W. 
 
 2 
 
 fair 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 17.80 
 
 17.40 
 
 646 
 
 656 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 10 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 15.60 
 
 14.40 
 
 648 
 
 659 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 „ 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 33- 00 
 
 23.40 
 
 647 
 
 659 
 
 W. 
 
 2 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 19.20 
 
 18.40 
 
 647 
 
 658 
 
 N.E. 
 
 I 
 
 V 
 
 II 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 19.20 
 
 17.00 
 
 649 
 
 660 
 
 W. 
 
 I 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 31.60 
 
 24.60 
 
 647 
 
 657 
 
 W. 
 
 2 
 
 fair 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 19.60 
 
 19.20 
 
 646 
 
 658 
 
 N.E. 
 
 I 
 
 clear 
 
 12 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 15.80 
 
 14.60 
 
 647 
 
 657 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 31.20 
 
 25.40 
 
 646 
 
 656 
 
 N.W. 
 
 I 
 
 „ 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 18.60 
 
 17-80 
 
 646 
 
 656 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 „ 
 
 13 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 18.40 
 
 17.60 
 
 649 
 
 660 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 22.40 
 
 21.40 
 
 648 
 
 660 
 
 E. 
 
 I 
 
 cloudy (13) 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 17.20 
 
 17-20 
 
 646 
 
 658 
 
 N. 
 
 I 
 
 fair 
 
 14 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 18.20 
 
 16.60 
 
 648 
 
 659 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 31.20 
 
 25.80 
 
 647 
 
 657 
 
 E. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 17.20 
 
 17.40 
 
 646 
 
 657 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 15 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 18.40 
 
 17.40 
 
 647 
 
 658 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 28.60 
 
 25.40 
 
 646 
 
 656 
 
 E. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 19.20 
 
 18.80 
 
 646 
 
 657 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 16 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 22.00 
 
 19.80 
 
 647 
 
 658 
 
 E. 
 
 2 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 33-60 
 
 26.30 
 
 648 
 
 657 
 
 E. 
 
 2 
 
 „ 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 23.20 
 
 20.80 
 
 645 
 
 657 
 
 E. 
 
 I 
 
 ,, 
 
 17 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 19.80 
 
 17.00 
 
 646 
 
 657 
 
 N. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 32.60 
 
 24.20 
 
 647 
 
 656 
 
 E. 
 
 2 
 
 clear 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 23.40 
 
 20.40 
 
 645 
 
 658 
 
 E. 
 
 I 
 
 ,, 
 
 18 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 19.40 
 
 16.80 
 
 647 
 
 657 
 
 E. 
 
 I 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 23.20 
 
 25.80 
 
 645 
 
 655 
 
 E. 
 
 2 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 19.60 17.60 
 
 644 
 
 655 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 19 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 22.80 18.80 
 
 648 
 
 658 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 „ 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 32.40 24.80 
 
 645 
 
 655 
 
 E. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 18.40 
 
 18.20 
 
 645 
 
 655 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 20 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 17.40 
 
 15-40 
 
 645 
 
 656 
 
 N.W. 
 
 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 33-60 
 
 26.40 
 
 645 
 
 655 
 
 N.E. 
 
 2 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 18.40 
 
 1 5. So 
 
 645 
 
 655 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 21 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 17.60 
 
 15.80 
 
 647 
 
 656 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 „ 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 33-60 
 
 25.40 
 
 645 
 
 655 
 
 N.W. 
 
 2 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 19.60 
 
 18.40 
 
 645 
 
 655 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 22 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 15.60 
 
 14.40 
 
 647 
 
 657 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 fair 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 3 3- 60 
 
 25.80 
 
 646 
 
 655 
 
 W. 
 
 I 
 
 clear 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 18.00 
 
 1 6. So 
 
 645 
 
 655 
 
 N. 
 
 , 
 
 1 
 
 II < 
 
 2 a
 
 458 
 
 MK TE OR OLO GICAL OBSER VA TIONS. 
 
 
 
 
 
 AXKROIU 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Hygkomktkk. 
 
 Uauomktek. 
 
 Wixi). 
 
 
 Day. 
 
 llcll ).-. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ^' 
 
 i^KMAKKS. 
 
 
 
 Wet. 
 
 Dry. 
 
 Xo. I. 
 
 Xo. 2. 
 
 Direc- 
 tion. 
 
 % 
 
 
 1887 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Feb. 23 
 
 7 a.u). 
 
 15.60' 
 
 13.60 
 
 647 
 
 656 
 
 KE. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 30. So 
 
 21.20 
 
 646 
 
 656 
 
 N.W. 
 
 I 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 16.40 
 
 15.80 
 
 645 
 
 656 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 24 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 15.40 
 
 13.00 
 
 646 
 
 657 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 „ 
 
 
 2 p.m". 
 
 33-40 
 
 26.20 
 
 645 
 
 655 
 
 E. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 1 9. So 
 
 18.60 
 
 645 
 
 655 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 25 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 18.60 
 
 16.80 
 
 647 
 
 658 
 
 N.E. 
 
 I 
 
 fair 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 30.60 
 
 25.20 
 
 645 
 
 655 
 
 N.W. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 21.00 
 
 20.40 
 
 645 
 
 656 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 26 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 20.40 
 
 18.80 
 
 64S 
 
 659 
 
 N.W. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 27.40 
 
 21.60 
 
 646 
 
 657 
 
 N.W. 
 
 2 
 
 „ 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 18.60 
 
 1 7. So 
 
 647 
 
 660 
 
 E. 
 
 I 
 
 ,, 
 
 27 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 18.80 
 
 17.80 
 
 649 
 
 660 
 
 E. 
 
 I 
 
 „ 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 22.60 
 
 20.80 
 
 648 
 
 659 
 
 N.W. 
 
 2 
 
 cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 17.80 
 
 17.60 
 
 648 
 
 660 
 
 N.E. 
 
 I 
 
 clear 
 
 28 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 16.20 
 
 14.60 
 
 649 
 
 659 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 30.60 
 
 23.80 
 
 647 
 
 657 
 
 N.W. 
 
 2 
 
 rather cloutly 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 19.20 
 
 18.60 
 
 646 
 
 657 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 Mar. I 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 18.60 
 
 16.60 
 
 647 
 
 657 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 31.40 
 
 24.40 
 
 645 
 
 655 
 
 N.W. 
 
 2 
 
 ,. 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 23.00 
 
 20.00 
 
 645 
 
 656 
 
 E. 
 
 I 
 
 fair 
 
 2 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 20.20 
 
 18.20 
 
 647 
 
 658 
 
 N.W. 
 
 I 
 
 clear 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 30.60 
 
 19.60 
 
 645 
 
 655 
 
 W. 
 
 2 
 
 fair 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 23.00 
 
 20.80 
 
 645 
 
 656 
 
 E. 
 
 I 
 
 cloudy (14) 
 
 3 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 18.80 
 
 18.20 
 
 649 
 
 657 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 „ 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 27.80 
 
 23.40 
 
 645 
 
 656 
 
 E. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 21.20 
 
 20.40 
 
 645 
 
 656 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 cloudy 
 
 4 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 20.80 
 
 19.80 
 
 649 
 
 659 
 
 E. 
 
 I 
 
 n " (IS) 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 27.40 
 
 19.20 
 
 648 
 
 657 
 
 E. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 21.20 
 
 20.40 
 
 647 
 
 658 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 19.00 
 
 18.20 
 
 647 
 
 657 
 
 S.E. 
 
 I 
 
 cloudy (16) 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 22.60 
 
 22.00 
 
 647 
 
 657 
 
 S.E. 
 
 2 
 
 „ 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 18.S0 
 
 18.40 
 
 645 
 
 658 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 6 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 16.80 
 
 1 5. So 
 
 649 
 
 659 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 27.60 
 
 24.80 
 
 647 
 
 657 
 
 S.E. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 18.60 
 
 18.40 
 
 645 
 
 657 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 7 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 16.40 
 
 15.60 
 
 649 
 
 659 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 28.20 
 
 25.60 
 
 647 
 
 656 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy (17) 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 19.80 
 
 19.80 
 
 646 
 
 656 
 
 E. 
 
 I 
 
 clear 
 
 8 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 20.40 
 
 1 8. So 
 
 647 
 
 657 
 
 E. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 27.80 
 
 24. So 
 
 644 
 
 655 
 
 N. 
 
 2 
 
 „ 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 19.80 
 
 19.20 
 
 645 
 
 655 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 9 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 18.80 
 
 17.80 
 
 647 
 
 657 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 fair (18) 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 21.60 
 
 19.60 
 
 645 
 
 655 
 
 N.W. 
 
 I 
 
 cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 20.40 
 
 19.80 
 
 645 
 
 656 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 10 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 20.20 
 
 19.20 
 
 647 
 
 657 
 
 N.W. 
 
 
 
 „ 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 28.40 
 
 25.00 
 
 645 
 
 655 
 
 N.E. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy (19) 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 20.00 
 
 19.20 
 
 646 
 
 657 
 
 N.W. 
 
 
 
 cloudy 
 
 II 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 18.20 
 
 17.40 
 
 648 
 
 659 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 fair 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 27.00 
 
 24.20 
 
 647 
 
 657 
 
 E. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy (20) 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 18.00 
 
 17.80 
 
 646 
 
 658 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 12 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 19.40 
 
 18.40 
 
 648 
 
 658 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 24.40 
 
 21.60 
 
 648 
 
 659 
 
 N. 
 
 I 
 
 „ 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 18.80 
 
 18.60 
 
 649 
 
 660 
 
 E. 
 
 I 
 
 "
 
 METEOROLOGICAL OBSER VATIONS. 
 
 459 
 
 
 
 Hygkomki'ku. ] 
 
 .V>-r. 
 
 tuiu 
 
 Wl.M). 
 
 
 
 IIOUH. 
 
 1 
 
 
 1Sa.komkti:k. i 
 
 
 
 
 Day. 
 
 Wet. Dry. 
 
 X.). I. 
 
 Xo. -2. 
 
 Diri'c- 
 tioii. 
 
 
 
 Kkm.vkkk. 
 
 1887 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Mar. 13 
 
 7 a.m. j 
 
 18.00^ 
 
 17.40 
 
 649 
 
 660 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 rather clouily 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 28.60 
 
 24.00 
 
 647 
 
 657 
 
 N. 
 
 I 1 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 9 P-Di- 1 
 
 20.20 
 
 19.80 
 
 648 
 
 659 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 ,, 
 
 14 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 18.80 
 
 17.60 
 
 649 
 
 659 
 
 X. 
 
 
 
 fail- 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 22.00 
 
 21.40 
 
 645 
 
 655 
 
 N.W. 
 
 I 
 
 cloudy (21) 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 18.80 
 
 18.20 
 
 647 
 
 659 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 „ 
 
 15 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 18.80 
 
 18.00 
 
 649 
 
 660 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 22.20 
 
 20.00 
 
 645 
 
 654 
 
 W. 
 
 1 
 
 ., (22) 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 19.20 
 
 t8.8o 
 
 646 
 
 657 
 
 N.E. 
 
 1 
 
 
 16 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 16.40 
 
 15.80 
 
 648 
 
 658 
 
 X. 
 
 
 
 clear (23) 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 26.80 
 
 23.40 
 
 646 
 
 656 
 
 w. 
 
 I 
 
 fair 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 18.80 
 
 18.80 
 
 648 
 
 658 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 17 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 19.20 
 
 18.20 
 
 649 
 
 659 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 ,, (24) 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 25.80 
 
 23.40 
 
 645 
 
 655 
 
 x.w. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloiulv 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 20.40 
 
 19.60 
 
 647 
 
 659 
 
 N.E. 
 
 I 
 
 - ;25)" 
 
 iS 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 18.80 
 
 17.20 
 
 649 
 
 659 
 
 X. 
 
 
 
 „ 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 23.20 
 
 19.80 
 
 647 
 
 657 
 
 E. 
 
 2 
 
 „ 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 18.60 
 
 18.40 
 
 647 
 
 658 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 19 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 18.00 
 
 17.20 
 
 648 
 
 660 
 
 N.W. 
 
 
 
 ,, 1 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 28.40 
 
 24.20 
 
 646 
 
 657 
 
 E. 
 
 1 
 
 " 1 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 21.80 
 
 21.20 
 
 645 
 
 656 
 
 N.W. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 20 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 18.60 
 
 16.80 
 
 646 
 
 657 
 
 N.E. 
 
 1 
 
 clear 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 22.40 
 
 20.40 
 
 645 
 
 655 
 
 N. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy (26) 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 20.80 
 
 19.60 
 
 645 
 
 656 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 21 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 20.20 
 
 18.60 
 
 647 
 
 657 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 ., 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 29.20 
 
 24.80 
 
 645 
 
 655 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy (27) 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 19.60 
 
 18.80 
 
 645 
 
 655 
 
 N.E. 
 
 [ 
 
 ,, 
 
 22 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 20.00 
 
 19.20 
 
 647 
 
 657 
 
 E. 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 26.60 
 
 24.40 
 
 646 
 
 656 
 
 E. 
 
 2 
 
 cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 17.60 
 
 17.60 
 
 645 
 
 657 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudv (28) 
 
 23 
 
 . 7 a.m. 
 
 18.20 
 
 17.20 
 
 647 
 
 656 
 
 X. 
 
 
 
 ." (-9) ' 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 21.20 
 
 20.00 
 
 645 
 
 657 
 
 E. 
 
 1 
 
 cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 19.60 
 
 19.40 
 
 647 
 
 658 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 fair 
 
 24 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 18.20 
 
 (7.80 
 
 648 
 
 659 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 cloudy (30) 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 27.60 
 
 24.00 
 
 647 
 
 657 
 
 E. 
 
 I 
 
 fair (31) 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 17.80 
 
 17.20 
 
 646 
 
 658 
 
 E. 
 
 I 
 
 
 25 
 
 7 a.m. 
 2 p.m. 
 
 
 
 
 . 
 
 z 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 - (32) 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 — ^ 
 
 — 
 
 — - 
 
 — 
 
 — • 
 
 26 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 17.60 
 
 16.80 
 
 649 
 
 660 
 
 N.E, 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 ' 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 28.60 
 
 25.00 
 
 645 
 
 657 
 
 E. 
 
 1 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m 
 
 18.80 
 
 17.80 
 
 645 
 
 656 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 27 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 18.80 
 
 17.40 
 
 646 
 
 657 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 27.80 
 
 24.80 
 
 645 
 
 655 
 
 X. 
 
 1 
 
 iather cloudy (33) 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 18.60 
 
 18.00 
 
 645 
 
 655 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 28 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 18.60 
 
 18.20 
 
 645 
 
 657 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 fair 
 
 1 
 
 2 23. m. 
 
 28.60 
 
 25.00 
 
 647 
 
 657 
 
 E. 
 
 1 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 I 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 18.80 
 
 18.40 
 
 645 
 
 656 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 29 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 18.20 
 
 17.60 
 
 649 
 
 659 
 
 E. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudv (34) 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 27.40 
 
 24.80 
 
 647 
 
 657 
 
 E. 
 
 r 
 
 - 35) 
 
 ; 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 18.80 
 
 18.60 
 
 646 
 
 657 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 ' 
 
 30 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 iS.oo 
 
 17.60 
 
 649 
 
 659 
 
 X. 
 
 
 
 " (36) 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 26.60 
 
 23.60 
 
 649 
 
 659 
 
 N.W. 
 
 I 
 
 ^> 
 
 1 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 18.00 
 
 18.00 
 
 645 
 
 657 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 clear
 
 4^io 
 
 METEOROL OGICAL OBSER VA TJONS. 
 
 Day 
 
 IIoVK. 
 
 Hyguometek. 
 
 Aneroid 
 Baeometeb. 
 
 Wind. 
 
 REMA.EK8. 
 
 Wet. 
 
 Dry. 
 
 No. I. 
 
 No. 2. 
 
 Direc- 
 tion. 
 
 
 
 
 
 1887 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Mar. 31 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 18.60" 
 
 18.00" 
 
 649 
 
 660 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 25.60 
 
 22.40 
 
 647 
 
 657 
 
 N.W. 
 
 I 
 
 fair 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 19.20 
 
 19.00 
 
 646 
 
 657 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 April I 
 
 7 a m. 
 
 1S.60 
 
 17.60 
 
 649 
 
 659 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 21.40 
 
 20.40 
 
 647 
 
 657 
 
 S.E. 
 
 
 
 cloudy (37) 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 1S.80 
 
 18.80 
 
 647 
 
 658 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 2 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 20.00 
 
 19.20 
 
 647 
 
 657 
 
 S.E. 
 
 
 
 ,j 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 22.60 
 
 21.20 
 
 647 
 
 656 
 
 N.E. 
 
 I 
 
 cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 19.60 
 
 19.20 
 
 646 
 
 657 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy (38) 
 
 3 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 19.20 
 
 18.20 
 
 648 
 
 658 
 
 X.W. 
 
 
 
 fair 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 27.00 
 
 19.00 
 
 645 
 
 655 
 
 E. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy (39) 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 20.40 
 
 20.00 
 
 645 
 
 657 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 fair 
 
 4 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 19.60 
 
 19.20 
 
 647 
 
 658 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 o\erc;!.st 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 18.60 
 
 18.60 
 
 646 
 
 656 
 
 S.E. 
 
 I 
 
 clear (40) 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 17.80 
 
 17.40 
 
 645 
 
 657 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 fair 
 
 5 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 16. So 
 
 15.40 
 
 647 
 
 658 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 26.40 
 
 23.80 
 
 646 
 
 656 
 
 S.E. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 19.80 
 
 19.80 
 
 646 
 
 656 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 fair 
 
 6 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 18.20 
 
 17.20 
 
 649 
 
 658 
 
 N.E. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 29.00 
 
 25.60 
 
 647 
 
 657 
 
 N.E. 
 
 I 
 
 fair (41) 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 19.20 
 
 18.80 
 
 645 
 
 657 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 7 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 20.20 
 
 18.40 
 
 649 
 
 660 
 
 E. 
 
 I 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 28.20 
 
 24.60 
 
 650 
 
 657 
 
 S.E. 
 
 I 
 
 „ 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 19.40 
 
 19.40 
 
 646 
 
 657 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 8 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 19.60 
 
 18.60 
 
 649 
 
 660 
 
 S.E. 
 
 1 
 
 fair (42) 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 27.80 
 
 24.20 
 
 647 
 
 658 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 19.80 
 
 20.20 
 
 647 
 
 657 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 ,, 
 
 9 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 17.60 
 
 17.00 
 
 647 
 
 659 
 
 S.E. 
 
 I 
 
 cloudy (43) 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 22.60 
 
 21.00 
 
 646 
 
 657 
 
 N.E. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 18.20 
 
 18.60 
 
 645 
 
 657 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 fair 
 
 10 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 17.40 
 
 16.40 
 
 647 
 
 657 
 
 S.E. 
 
 
 
 „ 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 27.40 
 
 23.60 
 
 647 
 
 657 
 
 S.E. 
 
 I 
 
 „ (44) 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 17.60 
 
 17.40 
 
 645 
 
 655 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 II 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 19.20 
 
 17.80 
 
 647 
 
 657 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 fair 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 28. 60 
 
 25.00 
 
 646 
 
 656 
 
 N.E. 
 
 X 
 
 clear 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 19.40 
 
 19.20 
 
 646 
 
 658 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 ,, 
 
 12 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 21.00 
 
 19.40 
 
 649 
 
 659 
 
 S.E. 
 
 I 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 23.60 
 
 22.20 
 
 647 
 
 65s 
 
 S.E- 
 
 I 
 
 >. (45) 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 18.80 
 
 18.40 
 
 646 
 
 657 
 
 S.E. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 13 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 19.20 
 
 18.40 
 
 649 
 
 658 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 »> 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 24.80 
 
 23.40 
 
 648 
 
 656 
 
 S.E. 
 
 2 
 
 ,. (46) 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 1 8. 60 
 
 18.00 
 
 650 
 
 659 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 overcast 
 
 14 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 19.60 
 
 18.80 
 
 650 
 
 659 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 2 15. m. 
 
 24.60 
 
 22.60 
 
 648 
 
 657 
 
 S.E. 
 
 I 
 
 ,. (47) 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 18.20 
 
 18.20 
 
 650 
 
 659 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 15 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 18.40 
 
 17.00 
 
 649 
 
 659 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 „ 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 26.20 
 
 24.20 
 
 649 
 
 658 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 20.20 
 
 20.00 
 
 648 
 
 658 
 
 N.W. 
 
 
 
 fair 
 
 16 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 18.60 
 
 17.40 
 
 648 
 
 657 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 28.20 
 
 25.40 
 
 647 
 
 656 
 
 S.E. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 18.00 
 
 18.20 
 
 646 
 
 655 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 17 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 1 9. 20 
 
 17.60 
 
 648 
 
 658 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 30.40 
 
 26.20 
 
 647 
 
 655 
 
 N.E. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 20.20 
 
 19.80 
 
 647 
 
 656 
 
 S.E. 
 
 
 
 clear
 
 METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 461 
 
 D\Y. 
 
 
 HVGEOSIETEK. 
 
 .\NEBOID 
 B.iROMETKH. 
 
 Wind. 
 
 
 HOUEU 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Ki;>HRK3. 
 
 
 
 Wet. 
 
 Dry. 
 
 Xo. I. 
 
 No. 2. 
 
 Direc- 
 tion. 
 
 ^0 
 
 
 1887 
 
 April 18 
 
 7 a. HI. 
 
 19.80" 
 
 19.20° 
 
 549 
 
 658 
 
 S.E. 
 
 r 
 
 cloudy (48) 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 26.80 
 
 23.20 
 
 647 
 
 657 
 
 S.E. 
 
 1 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 19.80 
 
 19.60 
 
 647 
 
 657 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 19 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 18.40 
 
 17.80 
 
 649 
 
 658 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 fair 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 23.20 
 
 22.00 
 
 647 
 
 659 
 
 E. 
 
 1 
 
 rather cloudy (49) 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 18.20 
 
 18.40 
 
 649 
 
 659 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 20 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 19.40 
 
 17.40 
 
 651 
 
 66o 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 fair 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 28.20 
 
 24.80 
 
 650 
 
 659 
 
 N.E. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 19.80 
 
 20.00 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 21 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 19-40 
 
 18.40 
 
 652 
 
 661 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 26.60 
 
 24.00 
 
 650 
 
 659 
 
 SE. 
 
 I 
 
 „ 
 
 
 9pm. 
 
 19.80 
 
 19.60 
 
 649 
 
 660 
 
 S.E. 
 
 
 
 „ 
 
 22 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 20.20 
 
 18.20 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 28.40 
 
 25.20 
 
 649 
 
 658 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 19.40 
 
 18.80 
 
 648 
 
 659 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 fair 
 
 23 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 17.60 
 
 16.60 
 
 648 
 
 657 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 29.60 
 
 25.40 
 
 647 
 
 657 
 
 N.E. 
 
 I 
 
 fair 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 19.80 
 
 19.40 
 
 647 
 
 657 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 ^ 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 19.80 
 
 19.00 
 
 648 
 
 657 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 28.80 
 
 25.00 
 
 647 
 
 656 
 
 S.E. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 19.60 
 
 19.40 
 
 648 
 
 659 
 
 N.E. 
 
 I 
 
 -. (50) 
 
 25 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 19.80 
 
 19.60 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 S.E. 
 
 I 
 
 cloudy (51) 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 24.40 
 
 22.40 
 
 650 
 
 659 
 
 S.E. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 17.80 
 
 18.00 
 
 650 
 
 661 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 26 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 18.60 
 
 17.00 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 28.00 
 
 24.20 
 
 650 
 
 657 
 
 S.E. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 19.80 
 
 19.40 
 
 650 
 
 659 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 ,. (52) 
 
 27 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 19.60 
 
 18.40 
 
 649 
 
 658 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 - (53) 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 19.20 
 
 19.80 
 
 6+7 
 
 657 
 
 N. 
 
 I 
 
 overcast 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 17.80 
 
 17.20 
 
 647 
 
 657 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 28 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 19.80 
 
 19.40 
 
 650 
 
 659 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy (54) 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 25.00 
 
 22.80 
 
 650 
 
 658 
 
 S.E. 
 
 I 
 
 „ 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 18.20 
 
 18.40 
 
 649 
 
 658 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 29 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 17.20 
 
 17.20 
 
 648 
 
 657 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 fair 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 28.60 
 
 25.20 
 
 648 
 
 657 
 
 S.E. 
 
 
 
 ., 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 19.40 
 
 19.20 
 
 648 
 
 657 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 30 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 20.20 
 
 18.60 
 
 650 
 
 658 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 „ 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 30.00 
 
 24.80 
 
 649 
 
 657 
 
 N.E. 
 
 2 
 
 rather cloudy (55) 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 18.80 
 
 18.60 
 
 649 
 
 658 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 „ 
 
 May I 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 17.80 
 
 16.80 
 
 649 
 
 659 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 fair 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 28.40 
 
 25.40 
 
 649 
 
 658 
 
 S.E. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy (56) 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 18.80 
 
 18.60 
 
 648 
 
 656 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 2 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 20.20 
 
 19.80 
 
 650 
 
 659 
 
 E. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy (57) 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 26.60 
 
 23.80 
 
 648 
 
 657 
 
 S.E. 
 
 I 
 
 . (58) 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 18.60 
 
 18.20 
 
 650 
 
 658 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 fair 
 
 3 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 19.20 
 
 18. 40 
 
 651 
 
 660 
 
 N.E. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy (59) 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 24.80 
 
 22.60 
 
 649 
 
 659 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 ., 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 19.80 
 
 19.60 
 
 650 
 
 659 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 „ 
 
 4 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 18.40 
 
 17.60 
 
 650 
 
 658 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 fair (60) 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 20.80 
 
 20.20 
 
 647 
 
 65s 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 18.20 
 
 18.20 
 
 65' 
 
 660 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 V (61) 
 
 5 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 19.80 
 
 18.80 
 
 650 
 
 659 
 
 N.E. 
 
 I 
 
 ., 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 25.20 
 
 22.60 
 
 650 
 
 657 
 
 N.E. 
 
 I 
 
 ., 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 19.80 
 
 19.80 
 
 652 
 
 660 
 
 S.E. 
 
 I 
 
 .. (62) 
 
 '' 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ' 
 
 '
 
 462 
 
 METRO RO LOGIC. If, OJLSEA' VA TIONS. 
 
 Day. 
 
 llol K. 
 
 Hygko.mktkk. 
 
 .V>KKOID 
 
 Babomktkb. 
 
 Wind. 
 
 
 
 
 Wet. 
 
 Dry. 
 
 No. I. 
 
 Xo. 2. 
 
 Direc- 
 tion. 
 
 i^ 
 
 Kr.M,\BEB. 
 
 1887 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 May 6 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 18.00^ 17.40" 
 
 652 
 
 660 
 
 KE. 
 
 I 
 
 cloudy 
 
 
 2 ]).]ii. 
 
 22.60 20.60 
 
 650 
 
 659 
 
 S.E. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 ]).in. 
 
 18.20 17.80 
 
 655 
 
 660 
 
 N.E. 
 
 I 
 
 clear 
 
 7 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 20.20 19.60 
 
 652 
 
 660 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 1} 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 27.60 24.00 
 
 650 
 
 659 
 
 S.E. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy (63) 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 19.40 19.20 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 8.E. 
 
 I 
 
 cloudy 
 
 8 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 20.60 19.40 
 
 651 
 
 660 
 
 S.E. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 26.80 24.20 
 
 650 
 
 659 
 
 N.E. 
 
 I 
 
 j^ 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 18.60 18.60 
 
 651 
 
 660 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 clear (64) 
 
 9 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 17.40 16.00 
 
 650 
 
 659 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 27.60 
 
 24.60 
 
 649 
 
 658 
 
 S.E. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 20.40 
 
 20.00 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 E. 
 
 I 
 
 II 
 
 10 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 20.80 
 
 19.40 
 
 650 
 
 659 
 
 S.E. 
 
 I 
 
 clear 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 28.20 
 
 24.20 
 
 649 
 
 658 
 
 S.E. 
 
 I 
 
 II 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 18.80 
 
 18.60 
 
 650 
 
 659 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy (65) 
 
 II 
 
 ^ a.m. 
 2 p.m. 
 
 z 
 
 
 
 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 z 
 
 — 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 12 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 18.80 
 
 18.20 
 
 651 
 
 660 
 
 S.E. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 26.20 
 
 23.80 
 
 650 
 
 659 
 
 S.E. 
 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 19.20 
 
 1S.80 
 
 649 
 
 659 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 fair 
 
 13 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 19.20 
 
 19.20 
 
 652 
 
 660 
 
 S.E. 
 
 
 clear 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 27.40 
 
 23.60 
 
 650 
 
 658 
 
 S.E. 
 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 1 8. So 
 
 18.00 
 
 650 
 
 659 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 clear 
 
 14 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 1 8. So 
 
 17.60 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 S.E. 
 
 
 II 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 28.00 
 
 24. So 
 
 648 
 
 6!;8 
 
 S.E. 
 
 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 18.60 
 
 18.40 
 
 650 
 
 658 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 It 
 
 15 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 16.60 
 
 15.60 
 
 650 
 
 65S 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 2S.C0 
 
 24. So 
 
 650 
 
 658 
 
 S.E. 
 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 1S.60 
 
 18.40 
 
 650 
 
 65S 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 16 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 20.20 
 
 18.80 
 
 650 
 
 659 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 fair 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 20.20 
 
 19.80 
 
 650 
 
 657 
 
 S.E. 
 
 
 cloudy (66) 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 19.80 
 
 18.60 
 
 649 
 
 658 
 
 S.E. 
 
 
 rather cloudv 
 
 17 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 19.20 
 
 18.40 
 
 651 
 
 660 
 
 E. 
 
 
 ., (67)" 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 26.20 
 
 23.20 
 
 652 
 
 660 
 
 S.E. 
 
 
 tf 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 1S.20 
 
 18.20 
 
 649 
 
 657 
 
 E. 
 
 
 clear 
 
 18 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 18.60 
 
 17.80 
 
 650 
 
 659 
 
 E. 
 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 27.20 
 
 24.20 
 
 649 
 
 658 
 
 S.E. 
 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 19.20 
 
 18.20 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 E. 
 
 
 overcast 
 
 19 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 17.20 
 
 15.40 
 
 649 
 
 659 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 clear 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 2 7. So 
 
 24.60 
 
 650 
 
 659 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 17.60 
 
 17.40 
 
 651 
 
 660 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 clear 
 
 20 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 1S.20 
 
 17.20 
 
 652 
 
 660 
 
 E. 
 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 2S.00 
 
 24.60 
 
 652 
 
 660 
 
 S.E. 
 
 
 *r 
 
 
 9 p.m. 1 
 
 1 8. 60 
 
 18.60 
 
 651 
 
 660 
 
 S.E. 
 
 I i 
 
 .. (68) 
 
 21 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 19.40 
 
 1S.80 
 
 652 
 
 660 
 
 E. 
 
 1 
 
 cloudy 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 25.60 
 
 23.40 
 
 651 
 
 660 
 
 E. 
 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 18.60 
 
 17. So 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 S.E. 
 
 
 
 fair 
 
 22 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 19.40 ' 
 
 18.40 
 
 652 
 
 660 1 
 
 S.E. 
 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 2 p.m. 1 
 
 23.40 
 
 22.60 
 
 651 
 
 660 
 
 S.E. 
 
 
 cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. i 
 
 17.60 17.00 
 
 652 
 
 660 
 
 S.E. 
 
 
 fair (69) 
 
 23 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 16.40 1 15.40 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 E. i 
 
 
 
 J, 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 27.40 123.60 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 S.E. 
 
 1 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 18.20 , 18.00 j 
 
 1 
 
 652 
 
 660 
 
 S.E. 
 
 
 
 fair 170) 
 
 i
 
 METEOROLOGICAL OBSER VA TIONS. 
 
 4^>3 
 
 
 
 Htguomktkh. 
 
 Aneroid 
 
 Wixu. 
 
 ' 
 
 Day. 
 
 IIOUK. 
 
 
 Bako.mktki!. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Iti:.MARhs. 
 
 
 
 Wot. 
 
 Dry. 
 
 .No. I. 
 
 No. 2. 
 
 Diri'i-- 
 tion. 
 
 
 
 1887 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 May 24 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 19.60' 
 
 17.40" 
 
 652 
 
 261 
 
 E. 
 
 I 
 
 cloudy 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 26.80 
 
 23.80 
 
 652 
 
 660 
 
 8.E. 
 
 1 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 19.80 
 
 19.20 
 
 651 
 
 661 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 25 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 17.60 
 
 17.20 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 E. 
 
 1 
 
 fair 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 27.40 
 
 24.20 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 E. 
 
 1 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 19.20 
 
 19.40 
 
 651 
 
 660 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 26 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 17.40 
 
 16.20 
 
 651 
 
 660 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 ji 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 28.40 
 
 24.80 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 E. 
 
 1 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 p.m. 
 
 17.60 
 
 17.20 
 
 650 
 
 658 
 
 S.E. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 27 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 17.40 
 
 15.60 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 2 j).m. 
 
 25.60 
 
 23.60 
 
 648 
 
 658 
 
 S.E. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 19.20 
 
 19.00 
 
 649 
 
 658 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 28 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 16.60 
 
 15.80 
 
 649 
 
 657 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 fair 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 27.80 
 
 23.60 
 
 648 
 
 657 
 
 E. 
 
 I 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 17.60 
 
 17.20 
 
 650 
 
 659 
 
 N. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 29 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 19.80 
 
 19.60 
 
 65' 
 
 659 
 
 E. 
 
 I 
 
 fair 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 26.00 
 
 23.60 
 
 650 
 
 658 
 
 N.E. 
 
 I 
 
 ratlier cloudy (71) 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 17.20 
 
 17.40 
 
 650 
 
 659 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 fair 
 
 30 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 18.40 
 
 16.80 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 27.60 
 
 24.60 
 
 650 
 
 659 
 
 N.E. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 1 8. 40 
 
 18.20 
 
 649 
 
 659 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 31 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 16.40 
 
 15.40 
 
 651 
 
 660 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 „ 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 26.40 
 
 23.80 
 
 649 
 
 657 
 
 E. 
 
 1 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 18.40 
 
 18.60 
 
 650 
 
 659 
 
 N.E. 
 
 1 
 
 fair (72) 
 
 June I 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 • — 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 2 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 18.40 
 
 17.60 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 cloudy 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 24.40 
 
 22.40 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 E. 
 
 1 
 
 ., 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 17.40 
 
 17.20 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 clear (73) 
 
 3 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 15.40 
 
 14.40 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 „ 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 26.40 
 
 23.20 
 
 651 
 
 660 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 18.40 
 
 18.00 
 
 650 
 
 659 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 4 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 19.80 
 
 1 8. 80 
 
 651 
 
 660 
 
 S.E. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 25.40 
 
 23.00 
 
 649 
 
 658 
 
 E. 
 
 1 
 
 .. (74) 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 17.20 
 
 17.20 
 
 649 
 
 660 
 
 S.E. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 s 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 19.20 
 
 18.40 
 
 650 
 
 661 
 
 N.E. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 26.20 
 
 22.40 
 
 650 
 
 661 
 
 N.E. 
 
 2 
 
 „ 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 19.40 
 
 19.00 
 
 651 
 
 659 
 
 N.E. 
 
 I 
 
 ,, 
 
 6 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 18.80 
 
 17.40 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 E. 
 
 I 
 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 27.80 
 
 24.20 
 
 650 
 
 658 
 
 E. 
 
 I 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 18.80 
 
 18.20 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 7 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 15.60 
 
 15.40 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 26.60 
 
 21.80 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 S.E. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 18.20 
 
 17.80 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 8 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 14.60 
 
 13.20 
 
 649 
 
 659 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 „ 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 27.80 
 
 20.60 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 S.E. 
 
 I 
 
 fair 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 IS.60 
 
 17.60 
 
 650 
 
 659 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 9 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 14.80 
 
 13.20 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 27.40 
 
 23-40 
 
 651 
 
 660 
 
 S.E. 
 
 1 
 
 fair 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 18.20 
 
 18.20 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 S.E. 
 
 1 
 
 clear 
 
 10 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 18.80 
 
 17.40 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 S.E. 
 
 I 
 
 „ 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 29.00 
 
 24.80 
 
 650 
 
 659 
 
 S.E. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 19.20 
 
 18.80 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 S.E. 
 
 I 
 
 >>
 
 464 
 
 METEOROLOGICAL OBSER VA TIONS. 
 
 Day. 
 
 IIOIK. 
 
 HrGBOMETKK. 
 
 Anf.koid 
 Baeometer. 
 
 Wind. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Rkmarks. 
 
 
 
 Wet. 
 
 Dry. 
 
 Xo. I. 
 
 No. 2. 
 
 Direc- 
 tion. 
 
 i 
 
 
 1887 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 June II 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 17.60 
 
 15.60" 
 
 651 
 
 660 
 
 S.E. 
 
 
 
 1 clear 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 26.00 
 
 22.60 
 
 6+9 
 
 658 
 
 «.E. 
 
 1 
 
 rather cloudy (75) 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 18.60 
 
 17.80 
 
 649 
 
 660 
 
 N.E. 
 
 I 
 
 cloudy 
 
 12 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 1 7. So 
 
 17.40 
 
 650 
 
 659 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 23.20 
 
 21.40 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 S.E. 
 
 I 
 
 cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 17.60 
 
 17.40 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 13 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 15.40 
 
 14.80 
 
 650 
 
 661 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 24.00 
 
 22.20 
 
 651 
 
 660 
 
 S.E. 
 
 1 
 
 rather cloudy (76) 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 17.20 
 
 17.20 
 
 651 
 
 660 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 14 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 14.80 
 
 13.80 
 
 651 
 
 660 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 fair 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 25.20 
 
 2^.00 
 
 652 
 
 662 
 
 X. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 18.40 1 18.00 
 
 651 
 
 660 
 
 E. 
 
 I 
 
 clear 
 
 15 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 16.80 
 
 15.80 
 
 651 
 
 660 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 21.40 
 
 19.60 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 N.E. 
 
 1 
 
 cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 13.80 
 
 14.20 
 
 651 
 
 660 
 
 E. 
 
 I 
 
 clear 
 
 16 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 18.40 
 
 17.40 
 
 651 
 
 660 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 24.60 
 
 23.00 
 
 651 
 
 660 
 
 E. 
 
 I 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 17.40 
 
 17.40 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 NE. 
 
 I 
 
 clear 
 
 17 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 19.40 
 
 18.40 
 
 651 
 
 661 
 
 N.E. 
 
 ■ 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 25.60 
 
 22.80 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 E. 
 
 I 
 
 „ (77) 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 17.60 
 
 17.60 
 
 650 
 
 659 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 
 18 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 18.60 
 
 17.60 
 
 650 
 
 659 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 fair 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 25.20 
 
 22.40 
 
 650 
 
 659 
 
 N.E. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 17.40 
 
 17.40 
 
 651 
 
 660 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 19 
 
 7 p.m. 
 
 17.20 
 
 17.20 
 
 651 
 
 660 
 
 S.E. 
 
 I 
 
 fair 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 25.40 
 
 22.60 
 
 651 
 
 660 
 
 S.E. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 17.60 
 
 17.80 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 N.W. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 20 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 16.60 
 
 15.40 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 25.20 
 
 22.80 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 N.W. 
 
 I 
 
 fair 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 18.60 
 
 18.00 
 
 651 
 
 660 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 21 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 18.40 
 
 17.40 
 
 650 
 
 661 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 fair 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 26.00 
 
 23.80 
 
 650 
 
 659 
 
 S.E. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy (78) 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 17.60 
 
 17.80 
 
 649 
 
 658 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 22 
 
 7 a.ui. 
 
 18.80 
 
 17.40 
 
 649 
 
 657 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 fair 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 26.60 
 
 23.60 
 
 647 
 
 657 
 
 E. 
 
 9 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 16.60 
 
 16.40 
 
 648 
 
 657 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 23 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 19.00 
 
 18.00 
 
 649 
 
 659 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 24.00 
 
 21.40 
 
 647 
 
 655 
 
 S.E. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy (79) 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 18.40 
 
 18.20 
 
 649 
 
 658 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 „ 
 
 24 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 18.00 
 
 16.40 
 
 647 
 
 657 
 
 S.E. 
 
 I 
 
 clear 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 21.40 
 
 20.40 
 
 647 
 
 658 
 
 S.E. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy (80) 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 16.20 
 
 16.40 
 
 648 
 
 657 
 
 E. 
 
 I 
 
 ,- (81) 
 
 25 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 17.80 
 
 17.60 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 21.00 
 
 19.80 
 
 651 
 
 660 
 
 S.E. 
 
 1 
 
 cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 14.80 
 
 15.20 
 
 650 
 
 659 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 clear (82) 
 
 26 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 17.40 
 
 16.60 
 
 650 
 
 6'0 
 
 E 
 
 1 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 24.40 
 
 21.80 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 S.E. 
 
 I 
 
 .. 183) 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 18.20 
 
 17.80 
 
 651 
 
 661 
 
 S.E. 
 
 1 
 
 clear 
 
 27 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 17.60 
 
 16.80 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 S.E. 
 
 
 
 fair 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 25.80 
 
 23.00 
 
 650 
 
 659 
 
 E. 
 
 I 
 
 ,. (84) 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 17.40 
 
 17.00 
 
 648 
 
 657 
 
 S.E. 
 
 
 
 
 28 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 18.40 
 
 17.20 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 24.60 
 
 23.00 
 
 649 
 
 659 
 
 S.E. 
 
 1 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 18.40 
 
 17.40 
 
 650 
 
 659 
 
 S.E. 
 
 
 
 fair
 
 METEOROLOGICAL OBSER VA TIONS. 
 
 465 
 
 
 
 Hygbometkk. 
 
 Ankroid 
 
 Wl 
 
 ^i>. 
 
 
 Day. 
 
 1 [ f K. 
 
 
 BlROMETKR. 
 
 
 
 RhM MiKS. 
 
 Wet. 
 
 J)ry. 
 
 Xo. I. 
 
 Xo. 2. 
 
 Direc- 
 tion. 
 
 i* 
 
 s. 
 
 1887 
 June 29 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 18.80° 
 
 18.00° 
 
 651 
 
 660 
 
 N.E. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy (85) 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 20.60 
 
 19.80 
 
 649 
 
 658 
 
 S.E. 
 
 2 
 
 cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 18.20 
 
 17.40 
 
 650 
 
 659 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 clear (86) 
 
 30 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 17.40 
 
 1 6. So 
 
 650 
 
 659 
 
 E. 
 
 i ° 
 
 cloudy 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 25.40 
 
 22.20 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 ,s. 
 
 1 I 
 
 rather cloudy (87) 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 16.60 
 
 16.40 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 E. 
 
 1 
 
 clear 
 
 July I 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 17.40 
 
 16.60 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 cloudy (88) 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 25.40 
 
 22.40 
 
 651 
 
 660 
 
 N.E. 
 
 I 
 
 fair 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 17.60 
 
 19.40 
 
 650 
 
 659 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 cloudy (89) 
 
 2 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 1 7. So 
 
 17.40 
 
 650 
 
 659 
 
 S.E. 
 
 I 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 26.40 
 
 23.40 
 
 649 
 
 659 
 
 S. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 17.40 
 
 17.20 
 
 649 
 
 658 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 3 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 15.40 
 
 14.80 
 
 650 
 
 659 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 26.20 
 
 22.80 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 S.E. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 18.60 
 
 18.40 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 4 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 1 6. So 
 
 16.20 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 26.40 
 
 23.40 
 
 652 
 
 661 
 
 E. 
 
 2 
 
 „ 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 17.20 
 
 1 6. So 
 
 652 
 
 660 
 
 S.E. 
 
 
 
 , 
 
 5 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 17.00 
 
 16.40 
 
 652 
 
 662 
 
 S.E. 
 
 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 2 ji.m. 
 
 26.40 
 
 21.80 
 
 652 
 
 661 
 
 s. 
 
 I 
 
 .. (90) 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 17.80 
 
 17.80 
 
 650 
 
 661 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 ,, 
 
 6 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 18.40 
 
 17.40 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 25.60 
 
 23.40 
 
 <>5i 
 
 660 
 
 S.E. 
 
 I 
 
 'I (91) 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 18.40 
 
 18.60 
 
 651 
 
 660 
 
 S.E. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 7 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 17.40 
 
 17.20 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 S.E. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 26.80 
 
 24.20 
 
 64S 
 
 659 
 
 S.E. 
 
 I 
 
 clear 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 19.40 
 
 19.20 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 sj:. 
 
 I 
 
 „ 
 
 S 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 19.40 
 
 18.20 
 
 649 
 
 660 
 
 S.E. 
 
 
 
 fair 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 26.80 
 
 24.20 
 
 650 
 
 659 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 19.40 
 
 19.20 
 
 649 
 
 600 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 „ 
 
 9 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 19.00 
 
 17.60 
 
 651 
 
 661 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 25.00 
 
 22.40 
 
 650 
 
 659 
 
 s. 
 
 I 
 
 overcast (92) 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 17.20 
 
 16.40 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 S.E. 
 
 I 
 
 ., 
 
 10 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 17.60 
 
 17.20 
 
 651 
 
 660 
 
 S.E. 
 
 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 23.60 
 
 21.40 
 
 651 
 
 660 
 
 S.E. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 17.20 
 
 1 6. So 
 
 651 
 
 660 
 
 E. 
 
 I 
 
 clear 
 
 II 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 16.60 
 
 16.20 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 fair 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 25.40 
 
 22.80 
 
 653 
 
 661 
 
 s. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 19.40 
 
 19.60 
 
 651 
 
 659 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 fair 
 
 12 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 18.80 
 
 18.40 
 
 651 
 
 660 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 25.40 
 
 22.80 
 
 651 
 
 660 
 
 S.E. 
 
 1 
 
 „ 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 19.20 
 
 18.40 
 
 652 
 
 660 
 
 S.E. 
 
 
 
 cloudy (93) 
 
 13 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 18.60 
 
 17.80 
 
 653 
 
 662 
 
 N.W. 
 
 
 
 overcast 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 25.40 
 
 23. So 
 
 652 
 
 661 
 
 S.E. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy (94) 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 17.20 
 
 16.80 
 
 652 
 
 660 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 14 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 17. So 
 
 17.40 
 
 661 
 
 659 
 
 N.W. 
 
 
 
 ratlier cloudy 
 
 1 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 24.20 
 
 22.20 
 
 651 
 
 66o- 
 
 s.w. 
 
 I 
 
 „ (95) 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 18.80 
 
 18.60 
 
 652 
 
 660 
 
 s. 
 
 
 
 „ 
 
 15 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 18.40 
 
 18.00 
 
 651 
 
 660 
 
 S.E. 
 
 
 
 cloudy (96) 
 
 
 2 23. m, 
 
 22.80 
 
 21.40 
 
 651 
 
 660 
 
 S. 
 
 I 
 
 )i 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 19.20 
 
 18.80 
 
 650 
 
 660 ■ 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 rather cloud 
 
 16 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 18.80 
 
 16.20 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 „ 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 23.80 
 
 22.40 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 S.E. 
 
 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 16.80 
 
 16.60 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 clear
 
 466 
 
 METEOROLOGICAL OBSER VA TLONS. 
 
 
 
 llY(iBOJIi:i l.H. 
 
 Ax 1:1 
 
 oil) 
 
 Wi.yii. 
 
 
 DAT. 
 
 Hoik. 
 
 
 IJVHOMIITKK. 1 
 
 
 
 
 Wot. 
 
 Dry. 
 
 No. I. 
 
 Xo. 2. 
 
 Dirff- 
 
 tioii. 
 
 1 
 
 \\V y\ * KKS. 
 
 1887 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 July 17 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 18.40 
 
 1 8. 00 
 
 651 
 
 661 
 
 X.E. 
 
 1 
 
 fail- 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 25.00 
 
 21.20 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 S.E. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 18.60 
 
 18.20 
 
 651 
 
 660 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 clear (97) 
 
 iS 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 19.20 
 
 18.00 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 y.E. 
 
 
 
 fair 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 26.00 
 
 23.20 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 E. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 18.20 
 
 18.20 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 19 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 18.00 
 
 17.20 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 26.20 
 
 23.80 
 
 651 
 
 660 
 
 S.E. 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 19.20 
 
 19.20 
 
 651 
 
 660 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 20 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 18.80 
 
 18.60 
 
 651 
 
 660 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 24.20 
 
 21.80 
 
 649 
 
 659 
 
 E. 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 19.20 
 
 18.20 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 S.E. 
 
 
 
 cloud V 
 
 21 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 18.20 
 
 17.40 
 
 648 
 
 659 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy (98) 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 24.20 
 
 22.40 
 
 649 
 
 659 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 17.60 
 
 17.60 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 fair (99) 
 
 22 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 18.20 
 
 17.00 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 E. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy (100) 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 23.40 
 
 21.60 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 S.E. 
 
 
 
 „ 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 17.60 
 
 17.60 
 
 648 
 
 659 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 
 23 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 19.20 
 
 18.40 
 
 651 
 
 660 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 23.00 
 
 21.60 
 
 654 
 
 662 
 
 N. 
 
 2 
 
 ,^ 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 16.20 
 
 16.00 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 24 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 15.20 
 
 14.60 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 ^, 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 25.80 
 
 22.40 
 
 650 
 
 659 
 
 s. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy (loi) 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 18.20 
 
 18.00 
 
 651 
 
 660 
 
 S.E. 
 
 
 
 fair 
 
 25 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 16.20 
 
 15.40 
 
 649 
 
 658 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 24.80 
 
 22.40 
 
 649 
 
 659 
 
 N. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 18.40 
 
 18.20 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 N.E. 
 
 2 
 
 ,, 
 
 26 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 16.60 
 
 15.00 
 
 650 
 
 659 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 ., 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 23.80 
 
 22.60 
 
 650 
 
 659 
 
 N.E. 
 
 I 
 
 
 
 9p.ui. 
 
 19.40 
 
 19.20 
 
 650 
 
 659 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 cloudy 
 
 27 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 18.20 
 
 17.80 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 S.E. 
 
 
 
 overcast (102) 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 20.80 
 
 19.80 
 
 649 
 
 659 
 
 E. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 18.40 
 
 18.60 
 
 651 
 
 660 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 fair 
 
 28 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 18.00 
 
 17.00 
 
 649 
 
 658 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 
 2 p. m . 
 
 25.20 
 
 22.60 
 
 650 
 
 659 
 
 E. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 19.20 
 
 19.00 
 
 651 
 
 660 
 
 S.E. 
 
 1 
 
 cloudy 
 
 29 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 18.20 
 
 17.40 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy (103) 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 25.80 
 
 23.40 
 
 652 
 
 660 
 
 S.E. 
 
 
 
 -. (104) 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 17.20 
 
 17.00 
 
 651 
 
 660 
 
 S.E. 
 
 2 
 
 cloudy 
 
 30 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 16.80 
 
 16.40 
 
 649 
 
 659 
 
 S.E. 
 
 
 
 fair (105) 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 20.80 
 
 19.80 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 s.w. 
 
 1 
 
 cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 15.60 
 
 15.80 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 brio-ht 
 
 31 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 16.40 
 
 16.20 
 
 649 
 
 659 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 fair 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 25.20 
 
 23.20 
 
 650 
 
 659 
 
 N.E. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 18.40 
 
 18.60 
 
 651 
 
 660 
 
 S.E. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 Aug. I 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 18.20 
 
 17.40 
 
 651 
 
 660 
 
 E. 
 
 1 
 
 fair 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 21.40 
 
 19.80 
 
 652 
 
 660 
 
 N.E. 
 
 1 
 
 rather cloudy (106) 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 17.00 
 
 16.40 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 2 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 14.80 
 
 13.60 
 
 649 
 
 660 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 24.40 
 
 22.80 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy (107) 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 17.60 
 
 17.40 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 3 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 17.20 
 
 16.20 
 
 649 
 
 659 
 
 N. 
 
 1 
 
 cloudy (108) 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 21.40 
 
 19.80 
 
 649 
 
 658 
 
 N.W. 
 
 1 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 16.20 
 
 16.00 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 clear
 
 METEOROLOGICAL OBSER VA TLONS. 
 
 467 
 
 DA.T. 
 
 HOIB. 
 
 Htgkomktkr. 
 
 AXEKOIU 
 BXROMKTER. 
 
 Wind. 
 
 Ukm.ibks. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Wet. 
 
 Dn-. 
 
 Xo. I. 
 
 No. 2. 
 
 Direc- 
 tion. 
 
 'i 
 
 
 
 1887 
 
 Ang. 4 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 17.60° 
 
 16.80' 
 
 651 
 
 661 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 25.40 
 
 23.00 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 S.E. 
 
 I 
 
 ,>(i09) , 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 17.20 
 
 16.80 
 
 649 
 
 660 
 
 E. 
 
 I 
 
 fair 
 
 5 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 19.80 
 
 18.60 
 
 649 
 
 659 
 
 N.W. 
 
 
 
 „ 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 25.20 
 
 23.00 
 
 650 
 
 659 
 
 N. 
 
 2 
 
 rather cloudy (no) 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 17.20 
 
 17.20 
 
 649 
 
 660 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 fair 
 
 6 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 1 7. So 
 
 16.80 
 
 649 
 
 659 
 
 X.E. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 26.20 
 
 24.00 
 
 649 
 
 658 
 
 N.E. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 18.20 
 
 17.80 
 
 650 
 
 659 
 
 E. 
 
 I 
 
 (Tloudy 
 
 7 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 1 6. So 
 
 16.20 
 
 649 
 
 658 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 24.80 
 
 21.40 
 
 647 
 
 657 
 
 X.E. 
 
 I 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 19.20 
 
 17.80 
 
 648 
 
 657 
 
 E. 
 
 2 
 
 clear 
 
 8 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 17. So 
 
 16.80 
 
 648 
 
 657 
 
 N.E. 
 
 I 
 
 )) 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 26.80 
 
 23.00 
 
 649 
 
 659 
 
 N.E. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy (in) 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 17.80 
 
 17.80 
 
 649 
 
 658 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 9 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 1 6. So 
 
 16.40 
 
 649 
 
 659 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 fair 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 25.00 
 
 22.60 
 
 650 
 
 659 
 
 S.E. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy (i 12) 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 1S.20 
 
 17.80 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 S.E. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 10 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 17.60 
 
 16.20 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 „ 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 25.60 
 
 23.80 
 
 650 
 
 659 
 
 N.E. 
 
 1 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 iS.oo 
 
 1S.20 
 
 649 
 
 658 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 II 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 15.80 
 
 1 4. So 
 
 64S 
 
 657 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 ,. 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 28. 40 
 
 24.20 
 
 650 
 
 659 
 
 S.E. 
 
 1 
 
 rather cloudy (i 13) 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 16.60 
 
 16.40 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 12 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 15.40 
 
 14.80 
 
 648 
 
 658 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 fair 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 27. So 
 
 23.40 
 
 649 
 
 657 
 
 S.E. 
 
 2 
 
 rather cloudy ( 1 14) 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 17.20 
 
 17.20 
 
 648 
 
 657 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 13 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 15.20 
 
 15.00 
 
 650 
 
 659 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 27. So 
 
 22.60 
 
 647 
 
 657 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 fair 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 19.20 
 
 1S.20 
 
 648 
 
 657 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 H 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 16.20 
 
 15-40 
 
 647 
 
 657 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 23.80 
 
 21.80 
 
 647 
 
 657 
 
 N.E. 
 
 1 
 
 3, 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 16.40 
 
 16.40 
 
 647 
 
 647 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 15 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 14.80 
 
 13.40 
 
 647 
 
 657 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 ^, 1 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 29.00 
 
 23.60 
 
 647 
 
 657 
 
 N. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 18.20 
 
 18.00 
 
 648 
 
 658 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 16 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 18.00 
 
 16.40 
 
 649 
 
 659 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 „ 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 27.60 
 
 19.00 
 
 64S 
 
 658 
 
 N.E. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 1 8. 40 
 
 18.20 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 «7 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 16.20 
 
 1 6. 20 
 
 649 
 
 658 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 „ 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 23.60 
 
 23.00 
 
 647 
 
 657 
 
 S. 
 
 2 
 
 overcast (115) 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 17.60 
 
 17.40 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 E. 
 
 1 
 
 clear 
 
 18 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 16.40 
 
 14.60 
 
 649 
 
 660 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 fair 
 
 
 2 p.m, 
 
 24.80 
 
 20.60 
 
 649 
 
 659 
 
 S.E. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 17.40 
 
 17.00 
 
 649 
 
 658 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 „ 
 
 19 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 15.60 
 
 [4.20 
 
 647 
 
 657 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 27.20 
 
 23.80 
 
 648 
 
 658 
 
 S.E. 
 
 1 
 
 fair 
 
 
 9pm. 
 
 17.40 
 
 17.20 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 S.E. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 20 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 17.80 
 
 16.80 
 
 650 
 
 659 
 
 S.W. 
 
 1 
 
 „ 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 28. So 
 
 24.00 
 
 649 
 
 659 
 
 S.W. 
 
 I 
 
 fair (iiOj 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 16.60 
 
 16.40 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 overca.st 
 
 21 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 17.20 
 
 16.40 
 
 649 
 
 658 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 fair 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 26.20 
 
 23.00 
 
 648 
 
 657 
 
 N. 
 
 I 
 
 clear 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 18.20 
 
 18.20 
 
 649 
 
 659 
 
 N.W. 
 
 
 
 fair
 
 468 
 
 AIETEOR OL O GICAL OBSER VA TIONS. 
 
 
 
 H YGBOMEl'KB. 
 
 Aneroid 
 
 Wind. 
 
 
 Day. 
 
 
 
 
 Uaromktkk. 
 
 
 
 
 Hour. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Kkmaekb. 
 
 
 
 Wcl. 
 
 Wry. _ 
 
 Xo. I. 
 
 No. 2. 
 
 Direc- 
 tion. 
 
 
 
 
 1887 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Aug. 22 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 17.00 
 
 16.00 
 
 649 
 
 659 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 24.00 
 
 22.20 
 
 647 
 
 656 
 
 N.E. 
 
 I 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 17.60 
 
 17.20 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 )> 
 
 23 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 17.80 
 
 17.40 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 26.60 
 
 23.80 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 N. 
 
 I 
 
 fair 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 17.60 
 
 17.40 
 
 649 
 
 659 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 24 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 19.40 
 
 18.40 
 
 650 
 
 659 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy (117) 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 23.40 
 
 21.80 
 
 649 
 
 658 
 
 N. 
 
 I 
 
 clear 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 17.60 
 
 16.60 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 E. 
 
 2 
 
 J, 
 
 25 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 18.20 
 
 16.80 
 
 650 
 
 658 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 27.20 
 
 23. So 
 
 648 
 
 660 
 
 N. 
 
 2 
 
 fair 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 18.80 
 
 19.00 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 26 
 
 7 a.ra. 
 
 17.80 
 
 17.20 
 
 650 
 
 661 
 
 N. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 18.40 
 
 17.60 
 
 647 
 
 656 
 
 S. 
 
 2 
 
 cloudy (118) 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 16.60 
 
 16.40 
 
 649 
 
 659 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 fair 
 
 27 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 17.40 
 
 16.60 
 
 649 
 
 659 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 27.20 
 
 24.40 
 
 648 
 
 658 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy (119) 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 17.40 
 
 17.60 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 S.E. 
 
 
 
 cloudy 
 
 28 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 15.20 
 
 14.80 
 
 647 
 
 657 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 25.60 
 
 23.60 
 
 647 
 
 656 
 
 N.E. 
 
 I 
 
 fair (120) 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 17.40 
 
 17.20 
 
 649 
 
 658 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 29 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 17.40 
 
 16.20 
 
 649 
 
 659 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 rather cloudy (121) 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 19.40 
 
 18.40 
 
 649 
 
 659 
 
 N.E. 
 
 I 
 
 )» 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 13.40 
 
 13.20 
 
 64S 
 
 658 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 clear 
 
 30 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 13.80 
 
 13.00 
 
 647 
 
 657 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 fair 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 25.40 
 
 23.40 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 N.E. 
 
 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 17.40 
 
 17.40 
 
 649 
 
 659 
 
 S.E. 
 
 
 
 ,, 
 
 31 
 
 7 a.m. 
 
 16.20 
 
 15.20 
 
 649 
 
 659 
 
 N.E. 
 
 I 
 
 clear 
 
 
 2 p.m. 
 
 26.00 
 
 22.60 
 
 649 
 
 658 
 
 S.E. 
 
 I 
 
 rather cloudy 
 
 
 9 p.m. 
 
 17.00 
 
 16.80 
 
 650 
 
 660 
 
 S.E. 
 
 
 
 fair
 
 NOTES ON THE METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS 
 IN UNYORO. 
 
 1. Rain from 3.30 A.M. till 4 A.M. 
 
 2. Rain from 7 A.M. till 7.15 A.M. 
 
 3. Rain from 5 A.M. till 6 A.M. 
 
 4. Rain from 11 A.M. till 3 P.M. 
 
 5. Rain from 3 P.M. till 4 P.M. and from 8 p.m. till 1 a.m. 
 
 6. Thunder and lightning with a little rain from 3 P.M. till 4 p.m. 
 
 7. Thunder and lightning with rain from 1 p.m. till 1.30 p.m. and from 
 
 2 P.M. till 3 p.m. 
 
 8. Thunder and lightning from 3 P.M. till 3.25 P.M. without rain. 
 
 9. Thunder and lightning with rain from 3 P.M. till 3.25 P.M. 
 
 10. Thunder and lightning, south-east wind, with rain from 12 noon till 
 
 1.45 P.M. 
 
 11. Rain from 12 noon till 1..30 P.M. and from 10 p.m. till 3 a.m. 
 
 12. Rain from 3 P.M. till 4 p.m. 
 
 13. Thunder and lightning with rain from 1.30 p.m. till 3.30 P.M. 
 
 14. A little rain from 9.30 P.M. and for about two hours in the niglit. 
 
 15. Rain from 1 A.M. till 2 A.M. and from 11 A.M. till 11.30 A.M. ' 
 
 16. A little rain in the night and from 9 A.M. till 10 A.M. 
 
 17. Rain from 2.30 P.M. till 3 P.M. 
 
 18. Thunder and lightning, strong northerly wind, with rain from 11a.m. 
 
 till 12 noon. 
 
 19. Thunder in the west. 
 
 20. Thunder in the west. 
 
 21. Thunder and lightning, with easterly wind ; ruin from 11 a.m. till 1 p.m. 
 
 and from 6 P.M. till 8.30 P.M. 
 
 22. Rain from 12 noon till 1 P.M. 
 
 23. Thunder and lightning, strong north-east wind, rain from 11 p.m. till 
 
 12.30 A.M. and from 3 P.M. till 4 p.m. 
 
 24. Rain from 3 A.M. till 4 a.m. 
 
 25. Tliunder in the north. 
 
 26. Thunder in the north-east. 
 
 27. Thunder in the north-cast, thunder and lightning, hail, rain from 2.30 P.M. 
 
 till 3.30 P.M. and from 12.30 A.M. till 2 A.M. 
 
 28. Rain from 2.30 p.m. till 3.30 P.M. 
 
 29. Rain from 12.30 A.M. till 2 A.M. and from 11 A.M. till 12 noon. 
 
 30. Rain from 6.30 A.M. till 8 A.M. 
 
 31. Thunder and lightning with easterly wind and rain from 2.30 p.m. till 
 
 8 P.M. 
 
 32. Thunder and lightning with strong easterly wind and rain from 7 P.M. 
 
 till 9 P.M.
 
 47 o NOTES ON OBSERV.ir/ONS. 
 
 33. Thunder in ihe north. 
 
 34. Rain from 7 a.m. till 8 A.M. 
 
 35. Thunder and liiihtnin.i,' witli rain fmin ■_'.:;() v.y\. till 4.:}0 P.M. 
 
 36. Heavy rain in the night at intervals. 
 
 37. Rain from 1 p.m. till .'5 p.m. 
 
 38. Rain from 3 P.M. till 4 j'..m. 
 
 39. Lightning in the north. 
 
 40. Rain from 1 P.M. till 5 v.^i. 
 
 41. Thunder and lightning, .south-east wind and rain from 3.30 P.M. till 
 
 4.30 P.M. 
 
 42. Rain from 1 A.M. till ;) A.m. 
 
 43. Thunder and lightning, rahi from :i A.M. till 11 A.M. 
 
 44. Thunder in the north. 
 
 45. Rain from 3 p.m. till 5 p.m. ; thunder and lightning, rain from 7 P.M. 
 
 till 11 P.M. 
 
 46. Rain from 2.30 p.m. till ;5 p.m., from 4 p.m. till 5 p.m., and from 
 
 8.30 P.M. till 11 P.M. 
 
 47. Rain from 2.30 P.3I. till 4 p.^r. 
 
 48. Thunder and lightning, rain from 1 A.M. till 5 A.Ji. 
 
 49. Rain from 1.30 p.m. till 2 p.m. 
 
 50. Rain from 4 P.M. till 5 P.M. 
 
 51. Rain from :! A.M. till 4 A.M. 
 
 52. Rain from 4 P.M. till 5 P.M. 
 
 53. Thunder and lightning, rain from 1 p.-M. till 2.30 P.M. 
 
 54. A little rain during the night. 
 
 55. Thunder and lightning, northerly wind, rain from 5 P.M. till 6 P.M. 
 
 56. Thunder and lightning, northerly wind, rain from 3.30 P.M. till 
 
 4.30 P.M. 
 
 57. Rain from 3.30 A.M. till 7 A.M. 
 
 ')S. Thunder and lightning, south-east wind, with rain from 5 P.M. till 
 
 7 P.M. 
 
 59. Rain from 2 A.:\i. till 5 a.m. and from 9 a.m. till 10 A.M. 
 
 60. Rain with northerly wind from 10.30 a.m. till 12 noon. 
 
 61. Rain from 10.30 P.M. till 12 midnight. 
 
 62. Rain from 8.30 P.M. till 3.30 A.M. 
 
 63. Thunder and lightning, easterly wind, with rain from 4.30 P.M. till 
 
 8 P.M. 
 
 64. Rain from 4 p.m. till 8 p.m. 
 
 65. Rain from 6 P.M. till 7 P.M. 
 
 66. Rain from 12.30 P.M. till 1.30 P.M., with .some thunder and lightning. 
 
 67. Rain from 1 A.M. till 2 A.M. 
 
 68. Rain from 12 noon till 2 P.M. 
 
 69. Rain from 3 P.M. till 4 p.m. 
 
 70. Rain from 12 midnight till 3 A.M. 
 
 71. Thunder and lightning, easterly wind, with rain from 3 P.M. till 
 
 5 P.M. 
 
 72. Rain from 4 p.m. till 5 P.At. 
 
 73. Rain from 3 P.M. till 4 p.m. 
 
 74. Rain from 10.30 a.m. till 12 noon and 3.30 p.m. till 4.30 P.M. 
 
 75. Thunder and lightning, southerly wind, with rain from 3 P.M. till 4.30 
 
 P.M.
 
 NOTES ON OBSERVATIONS. 471 
 
 76. Tliunder and lightning, south-east wind, with a little hail and rain from 
 
 3.30 P.M. till 5.30 P.M. 
 
 77. Thunder and lijalitning. south-ea-^t wind, with heavy rain from 3 P.M. 
 
 till 4 P.M. 
 
 78. Rain from 2.30 p.m. till 6 p.m. 
 
 79. Rain from 3 p.m. till 4 p.m. 
 
 80. Rain from 1.30 P.M. till 2.30 P.M. and from 4 p.m. till ."} P.M. 
 
 81. Rain from 1 .\.M. till 3 A.M. 
 
 82. Rain from 1 P.M. till 3 P.M. 
 
 83. Rain from 11 A.M. till 12 noon. 
 
 84. Rain from 1 p.m. till 2.30 P.M. and from 1 P.M. till 5 P.M. 
 8.0. Rain from 1 a.m. till b A.M. 
 
 86. Rain from 6 P.M. till 6.30 P.M. 
 
 87. Rain from 2 p.ar. till 3 P.M. 
 
 88. Rain from 5 A.M. till 6 a.m. 
 
 89. Rain from 9 P.M. till 10 P.M. 
 
 90. Thunder and lightning, mirth-east wind, rain I'rom 3.30 P.M. till 
 
 5 P.M. 
 
 91. Thunder and lightning, south-west wind, rain from 7 P.M. till 8 P.M. 
 
 92. Thunder and lightning, rain from 1.30 P.M. till 4 p. it. and from 7 P.M. 
 
 till 3 A.M. 
 
 93. Rain from 9.30 p.m. till 10 p.m. 
 
 94. Thunder and lightning, rain from 2.30 P.M. till 3.4.5 P.M. 
 
 95. Thunder and lightning, southerly wind, rain from 3.30 P.M. till 
 
 4.30 P.M. 
 
 96. Rain from 1 A.M. till .0 A.M. 
 
 97. A little rain at 5 p.m. 
 
 98. A little rain at 10.30 p.m. 
 
 99. Rain from 4 p.m. till 4.30 P.M. 
 
 100. Thunder and lightning, .south-west wind, rain from 4 p.m. till 8 P.M., 
 
 hail from 4 P.M. till 4.30 p.m., rain from 9 P.M. till 11 P.M. 
 
 101. Thunder and lightning, southerly wind, rain from 5 P.M. till 6 P.M. 
 
 102. Rain from 6 A.M. till 8 A.M. 
 
 103. Rain from 11 P.M. till 12 midnight. 
 
 104. Rain from :; p.m. till 4 p.m., from 5 P.M. till 5.30 P.M., and from 10 p.m. 
 
 till 11 P.M. 
 
 105. Rain from 8 A.M. till 10 A.M. 
 
 106. Thunder and lightning, soutli-west wind, with rain from 2.30 p.m. till 
 
 4 P.M. 
 
 107. Thunder and lightning, north-west wind, with rain from 3 P.M. till 
 
 3.30 P.M. 
 
 108. Light rain from 5 A.M. till 8 A.M. 
 
 109. Thunder and lightning, southerly wind, with rain from 4.30 p.m. till 
 
 7 P.M. 
 
 110. Thunder and lightning, southerly wind, with rain from 2.30 P.M. till 
 
 3.30 P.M. 
 
 111. Southerly wind with rain from 2 P.M. till 5 P.M. 
 
 112. Thunder and lightning, southerly wind, from 3 P. it. till 3.4') p.m. 
 
 113. Thunder and lightning, southei-ly wind, and rain from 3.30 P.M. till 
 
 4.15 P.M. 
 
 114. Rain from 3 p.m. till 3.30 P.M. and from .5.30 P.M. till 6 P.M.
 
 472 NOTES ON OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 115. Thunder and lightning, southerly wind, and rain from 2 p.m. till 
 
 3 P.M. 
 
 116. Thunder and lightning, strong north-east wind, with rain from 7 P.M. 
 
 till 11 P.M. 
 
 117. Thunder and lightning, northerly wind, with rain from 11 A.M. till 
 
 12 noon. 
 
 118. Thunder and lightning, southerly wind, with rain from 12.30 P.M. till 
 
 4 P.M. 
 
 119. Thunder and lightning, south-west wind, with rain from 7 P.M. tiU . 
 
 11 P.M. 
 
 120. Rain from 12 midday till 1 p.m. and from 5 P.M. till 5.30 P.M. 
 
 121. Rain from 8 A.M. till 11 a.m.
 
 SECOND APPENDIX. 
 
 COMPAEATIVE TAP.LE OF THE LANGUAGES 
 
 OF THK 
 
 DINKA, MORU, MAMBETTU, BAMBA, SANDEH, BARI, AND LUR. 
 
 * Mr. Vita Hassan, formerly doctor in the service of the Government of 
 Equatoria, kindly assisted me in the compilation of this table, 
 
 2 H
 
 474 
 
 COMPARATIVE TABLE OF 
 
 English. 
 
 DlS'KA. 
 
 MOEU. 
 
 Mambettu. 
 
 1 One 
 
 To 
 
 A115 
 
 Kiruna 
 
 2 Two 
 
 Re 
 
 Re 
 
 Some 
 
 3 Three 
 
 Diak 
 
 N^ 
 
 Sotla 
 
 4 Four 
 
 Donguau 
 
 Su 
 
 Sossua 
 
 5 Five 
 
 Dik 
 
 Nji 
 
 Sarca 
 
 6 Six 
 
 Ditem 
 
 Vialo 
 
 Tingok^nna 
 
 7 ^ven 
 
 Doro 
 
 Diave 
 
 Toromi 
 
 8 Eight 
 
 Bit 
 
 DianA, 
 
 Banda 
 
 9 JSVyic 
 
 Ingu&n 
 
 Diassa 
 
 Tingelegi 
 
 10 ^'ett 
 
 Tiar 
 
 Buti 
 
 Tckke 
 
 11 Tree 
 
 — 
 
 Scamba 
 
 Woquoquo 
 
 12 TFato- 
 
 Piiu 
 
 Isi 
 
 Egua 
 
 13 Antelope 
 
 Tiau 
 
 Najo 
 
 Nadela 
 
 14 Banana 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 Bugo 
 
 15 Beard 
 
 Inal 
 
 — 
 
 Ndolu 
 
 1(5 Buffalo 
 
 Niar 
 
 Kibi 
 
 Kibi 
 
 17 Mouth 
 
 Rok 
 
 Kola 
 
 Tipo 
 
 18 Tores* 
 
 Rore 
 
 Ai^ 
 
 Nopi 
 
 19 'S'^ict 
 
 Ausk 
 
 Si 
 
 Titi 
 
 20 -4rm 
 
 Sin 
 
 Dimaro 
 
 Weti 
 
 21 TFA/fe 
 
 Tuin 
 
 Onji 
 
 Mobu 
 
 22 Z)o</ 
 
 Djo 
 
 Kottshe 
 
 Neshi 
 
 23 ir?»/e 
 
 Oel 
 
 lUi 
 
 Sape 
 
 24 House 
 
 — 
 
 Goamaro 
 
 Neba 
 
 25 -ffee</ 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 Nekoko 
 
 26 Heaven 
 
 Due 
 
 -- 
 
 Noro 
 
 27 Brother-in-law 
 
 — 
 
 — • 
 
 Nembe 
 
 28 G^oa* 
 
 Tok 
 
 Indi 
 
 Meme 
 
 29 -BmcZ; 
 
 Makotok 
 
 — 
 
 Bongulo 
 
 30 ^l/ea« 
 
 Rim 
 
 l&k 
 
 Neri 
 
 31 ITair 
 
 Mum 
 
 Kapumiro 
 
 Edrue 
 
 32 -^earf 
 
 P6 
 
 Tomaro 
 
 Nessu 
 
 33 To run 
 
 — 
 
 Renge 
 
 Kurengo 
 
 34 Tyar/Ji 
 
 Rog 
 
 Etu 
 
 Mode 
 
 35 Tooth 
 
 Lu 
 
 — 
 
 Ki 
 
 36 Finger 
 
 Sin 
 
 — 
 
 Tenge 
 
 37 -SWe* 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 Mendendinge 
 
 38 TFo7«a?!. 
 
 Tendia 
 
 Dokomaro 
 
 Nandro 
 
 39 To s?e?^j 
 
 — 
 
 Nanduli 
 
 Eie 
 
 40 Grass 
 
 Non 
 
 Aie 
 
 Ummt\ 
 
 41 Elephant 
 
 Akkuu 
 
 Lini 
 
 Nokko 
 
 42 Lightning 
 
 Atshaul 
 
 — 
 
 Barra 
 
 43 ^rroi',' 
 
 Wiet 
 
 Atu 
 
 Bongu 
 
 44 i^iVe 
 
 Mog 
 
 Asse 
 
 Kago 
 
 45 XJwer 
 
 Tshuin 
 
 Munyek 
 
 Kubia 
 
 46 Brother 
 
 Non^ 
 
 — 
 
 Yanengue 
 
 47 <7oW 
 
 Wir 
 
 — 
 
 Netu 
 
 "48 F/ozo- 
 
 Abik 
 
 Ira 
 
 Kiumb^pu 
 
 49 r//rort< 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 Kolikole 
 
 50 Hen 
 
 Eget 
 
 Au 
 
 Niiele 
 
 61 OocA; 
 
 Moroget 
 
 Gog5 
 
 Mabangi 
 
 ' 62 C<yrn 
 
 Rof 
 
 Duala 
 
 BAgala 
 
 - 53 ilfaize 
 
 Abumatofil 
 
 Dobole 
 
 Ndo 
 
 54 Day 
 
 — 
 
 Ando 
 
 Otuni 
 
 55 Hyena 
 
 Auguen 
 
 Kumgenii 
 
 Ungu
 
 NATIVE LANGUAGES. 
 
 475 
 
 Bam HA. 
 
 Sasdeh. 
 
 BARr. 
 
 Lii;. 
 
 1 ImutO 
 
 Sa 
 
 Gellen 
 
 Atshel 
 
 2 Ibilli 
 
 Ui 
 
 Morek 
 
 Ari6 
 
 .-J Issalu 
 
 Biata 
 
 Mussiila 
 
 Adek 
 
 4 Kongonio 
 
 Biama 
 
 Engudn 
 
 AnuJlu 
 
 5 Bumiito 
 
 Bissue 
 
 Muki\ua 
 
 Abbikk 
 
 6 Kabokoimuto 
 
 Batsii 
 
 Buker 
 
 Abirku 
 
 7 Kabokoib;\li 
 
 Battoi 
 
 Burio 
 
 Abbutshel 
 
 8 Kabokoissilli 
 
 Battibiilta 
 
 Budog 
 
 Abudik 
 
 9 Kabokongouia 
 
 Battibiilma 
 
 Bungan 
 
 Abinguau 
 
 10 — 
 
 Bavece 
 
 Fok^ 
 
 Aptkr 
 
 11 Mussa 
 
 Bangua 
 
 Kodenlabidsho 
 
 Yenmadiel 
 
 12 Ibali 
 
 Imme 
 
 Pio 
 
 Pi 
 
 lo Niama 
 
 Tagba 
 
 Babud 
 
 — 
 
 1-4 B6 
 
 Bu 
 
 — 
 
 Bitoki 
 
 15 — 
 
 Mangba 
 
 Niaken 
 
 — 
 
 16 Nzali 
 
 Beh 
 
 Mekkor 
 
 Jobi 
 
 17 Nakko 
 
 Mba 
 
 Kotilo 
 
 Dogo 
 
 18 Solu 
 
 BilK" 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 19 — 
 
 Mbondo 
 
 Tore 
 
 Yennissingo 
 
 20 Bakkuma 
 
 Behe 
 
 Kenin 
 
 Singa 
 
 21 Jako 
 
 Pussie 
 
 Nape 
 
 MatAr 
 
 22 — 
 
 Ango 
 
 Dion 
 
 Goke 
 
 23 Mbako 
 
 Sappi' 
 
 Wale 
 
 Pala 
 
 24 Mugo 
 
 Polo 
 
 Kodi 
 
 Ot 
 
 25 — 
 
 Kolumba 
 
 Kibo 
 
 Yei 
 
 26 Kuguno 
 
 Mbombatulu 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 •I't 
 
 Bieli 
 
 Nerinji 
 
 Ora 
 
 28 Wosendi 
 
 Busseudi 
 
 Kine 
 
 Diel 
 
 29 — 
 
 Babussendi 
 
 Laffidshat 
 
 Niokidicl 
 
 30 Niama 
 
 Passienja 
 
 Lokkore 
 
 Rimo 
 
 31 Monghili 
 
 Mugili 
 
 Kepir 
 
 — 
 
 32 Nbak^li 
 
 Bagonda 
 
 Toll 
 
 Sonji 
 
 33 Mambango 
 
 Moolo 
 
 Ukioken 
 
 Rengi 
 
 34 Yezo 
 
 Fala 
 
 Kollon 
 
 Lid 
 
 35 Munjuma 
 
 Linde 
 
 Kala 
 
 Laki 
 
 36 — 
 
 Ylisa 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 37 — 
 
 Zilienzire 
 
 Tabidin 
 
 Mit 
 
 38 Keli 
 
 De 
 
 Nilquan 
 
 Daku 
 
 39 Taltu 
 
 Mulla 
 
 Totu 
 
 Botu 
 
 40 Solu 
 
 Vua 
 
 Dor 
 
 Lum 
 
 41 Mbongo 
 
 Mbana 
 
 Tome 
 
 Liek 
 
 42 Gumba 
 
 Gumba 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 43 Guanzfi 
 
 Guanza 
 
 Loe 
 
 Kero 
 
 44 Tshokossi 
 
 We 
 
 Kimi\n 
 
 Mag 
 
 45 Mbokali 
 
 Ende 
 
 Munye 
 
 — 
 
 46 Nama 
 
 Ylina 
 
 Longozer 
 
 Nduko 
 
 47 Pao 
 
 Zele 
 
 Katerot 
 
 — 
 
 48 Tubu 
 
 Ngunke 
 
 Balot 
 
 Sano 
 
 49 — 
 
 Ginibole 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 50 Dongu 
 
 Kondo 
 
 Sokkor 
 
 Gueno 
 
 51 — 
 
 Bakkondo 
 
 — 
 
 Tongueno 
 
 52 — 
 
 Yonde 
 
 Landi 
 
 Matama 
 
 53 Mbomu 
 
 Mbaia 
 
 Tormo 
 
 Mui\ge 
 
 54 Simanoko 
 
 Ellemi 
 
 Lokolon 
 
 — 
 
 55 Unga 
 
 Zige 
 
 Baron 
 
 Ngu '
 
 476 
 
 COMPARATIVE TABLE OF 
 
 English. 
 
 Mambettu. 
 
 1 Leopard 
 
 2 Lion 
 Lance 
 Milk 
 Moon 
 Lip 
 Ihngite 
 
 8 To lighten 
 
 9 Wood 
 
 10 3Iother 
 
 11 Lead 
 
 12 Fhj 
 
 13 Mmniing 
 
 14 2Jountain 
 
 15 Husband 
 
 16 TR/e 
 
 17 Noon 
 
 18 5arec? 
 
 19 iVbse 
 
 20 No 
 
 21 ^Zac/j 
 
 22 Night 
 
 23 C?oj<fZ 
 
 24 0«7 
 
 25 -Eye 
 
 26 -£"«»• 
 
 27 Egg 
 
 28 -Bone 
 
 29 -Fa^/ier 
 
 30 Land 
 
 31 i^/sA 
 
 32 Bain 
 
 33 Stone 
 
 34 >SrA;/;i 
 
 35 JBair 
 
 36 i^'ooi 
 
 37 Pi>e 
 
 38 Bed-curtain 
 
 39 Porridge 
 
 40 Breast 
 
 41 TAis 
 
 42 T/wf 
 
 43 i?ec^ 
 
 44 To sjiore 
 
 45 jBfoofZ 
 
 46 X'/r^.y 
 
 47 Sister 
 
 48 /SYar 
 
 49 Sun 
 
 50 -&iZ< 
 
 51 Shield 
 
 52 Tfs 
 
 53 Shoidder 
 
 54 >Sea« 
 
 55 -BocZ; 
 
 Shor 
 
 Kor 
 
 Rug 
 
 So 
 
 Fi 
 
 Shenin 
 
 Rimag 
 
 To 
 
 Um 
 
 Mien 
 
 Isk 
 
 Manoget 
 
 Inn^m 
 
 Wo 
 
 Rek 
 Den 
 
 Del 
 
 Nin 
 
 Tongetop 
 
 Shoon 
 Runyum 
 
 Riam 
 
 Miancu 
 
 Kwalniale 
 
 Akuai 
 
 Akkoi 
 
 Koc 
 
 Rog 
 Ok5 
 
 Kamero 
 Adju 
 
 Imba 
 
 Ija 
 
 Tefemora 
 
 Dodt\ 
 
 Nanguossi 
 
 Coniuguo 
 
 Agomaro 
 
 Tokomaro 
 
 Illononga 
 
 Imbo 
 
 Uni 
 
 Ngossesi 
 
 Mandero 
 
 Oddoniero 
 
 Bi 
 
 Mi 
 
 Kuu 
 
 Tafemaru 
 
 Badi 
 
 Ibbi 
 
 Bie 
 
 Moiokidi 
 
 Kinni 
 
 Pa 
 
 Kaddo 
 Linia 
 Agga 
 Makero 
 
 Milili 
 
 Are 
 Adelofinkoro 
 
 Ali 
 
 Godofa 
 Uzumor 
 
 Kendo 
 
 Mazambula 
 
 Noru 
 
 Bague 
 
 Angue 
 
 Tipokepi 
 
 Kodea 
 
 Komadendi 
 
 Kire 
 
 Yangue 
 
 Nunzi 
 
 Anzi 
 
 Nobolebu 
 
 Kobi 
 
 Mashinandra 
 
 Nandronandra 
 
 Totianepo 
 
 Tedru 
 
 Namo 
 
 Kare 
 
 Meku 
 
 Kini 
 
 Manduruba 
 
 Balempaso 
 
 Nengo 
 
 Nebbi 
 
 Balakaka 
 
 Nepo 
 
 Papangue 
 
 Neba 
 
 Nangere 
 
 Kuma 
 
 Kopi 
 
 Kepi 
 
 Edruekepi 
 
 Konzo 
 
 Puopo 
 
 Mombe 
 
 Quakie 
 
 Gxigu 
 
 Dondre 
 
 Nendri 
 
 Gbamb^ 
 
 Kurkii 
 
 Alipu 
 
 Din da 
 
 Nedra 
 
 Nedjo 
 
 Neko 
 
 Gandj5 
 
 jManzum^ 
 
 Ee 
 
 Nitaboba 
 
 Bala 
 
 Nengu
 
 NATIVE LANGUAGES. 
 
 477 
 
 BAMBjk^. 
 
 iSANDEU. 
 
 Babi. 
 
 Llb. 
 
 1 Mam:\ 
 
 Mama 
 
 Koka 
 
 Quakk 
 
 •> 
 
 Bomu 
 
 Kamiro 
 
 
 
 3 Kongamo 
 
 Bosso 
 
 Goro 
 
 Ton 
 
 4 — 
 
 Momusse 
 
 Le 
 
 Tshak 
 
 5 — 
 
 Diwi 
 
 Yapa 
 
 Due 
 
 6 — 
 
 Potumba 
 
 Labio 
 
 
 
 7 — 
 
 Menus 
 
 Niedeb 
 
 
 
 8 — 
 
 Mainiinguiquera 
 
 Kissagil 
 
 — 
 
 y Mussa 
 
 Gnake 
 
 Kadentikina 
 
 Yennag 
 
 10 — 
 
 Na 
 
 Mama 
 
 M^ 
 
 1 1 Kuaque 
 
 Pio 
 
 Ton 
 
 DA 
 
 12 Mongo 
 
 Age 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 13 Nopuma 
 
 Wisso 
 
 Tom:\lo 
 
 — 
 
 14 Tolili 
 
 Mbia 
 
 Mere 
 
 Got 
 
 15 Moloko 
 
 Kombomi 
 
 Lalelio 
 
 Soara 
 
 16 Keli 
 
 Demi 
 
 Naguanio 
 
 Dakopar^ 
 
 17 Manikikogolo 
 
 Bebeleuku 
 
 Kolouki 
 
 — 
 
 18 — 
 
 Bhe 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 19 — 
 
 One 
 
 Kumu 
 
 Zum 
 
 •20 Dimuba 
 
 Ohoh 
 
 Naben 
 
 Anquero 
 
 21 Oppi 
 
 Bie 
 
 Nemo 
 
 Matshol 
 
 22 Biti 
 
 23 — 
 
 24 Monouguma 
 
 Yulu 
 
 Quaje 
 
 — 
 
 Paibakita 
 
 Oelet 
 
 Landi 
 
 25 Mussuma 
 
 Bangili 
 
 Koon 
 
 wan 
 
 26 Tuko 
 
 Tue"^ 
 
 Su;\t 
 
 — 
 
 27 — 
 
 Palasondo 
 
 Katiloketi 
 
 Tonguena 
 
 28 - 
 
 Meme 
 
 Kuissa 
 
 Soggo 
 
 29 Babii 
 
 Ba 
 
 Baba 
 
 Jam 
 
 30 Mugu 
 
 Bolo 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 31 Bisse 
 
 Tinvo 
 
 Tshumot 
 
 Rekk 
 
 32 Ibali 
 
 Mai 
 
 Kuddi 
 
 Kot 
 
 33 Talili 
 
 Mbia 
 
 — 
 
 
 
 34 — 
 
 Poto 
 
 Gober 
 
 Addila 
 
 35 — 
 
 Mange 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 36 Goloku 
 
 Ndue 
 
 Makoti 
 
 Tiendo 
 
 37 Mbongu 
 
 Bassa 
 
 Dak 
 
 Mbai 
 
 38 Bonguba 
 
 Wene 
 
 N;\but 
 
 Mabir 
 
 39 Mboko 
 
 Bakinde 
 
 Dilon 
 
 Quen 
 
 40 — 
 
 Mbadosse 
 
 Kido 
 
 
 
 41 Njiba 
 
 Ghine 
 
 — 
 
 - 
 
 42 Yaniti 
 
 Sule 
 
 — 
 
 . 
 
 43 — 
 
 Zambil 
 
 Lotor 
 
 Maquar 
 
 44 — 
 
 Boko 
 
 Yaiama 
 
 — 
 
 45 Glima 
 
 Kole 
 
 Rima 
 
 Reno 
 
 46 — 
 
 Likiquo 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 47 Neme 
 
 Deule 
 
 Sasser 
 
 Niamikil 
 
 48 — 
 
 Dimma 
 
 — 
 
 
 
 49 Maniki 
 
 Ulu 
 
 Kolon 
 
 
 
 50 Mukka 
 
 Tiquo 
 
 Bal;\n 
 
 Kado 
 
 51 Nguba 
 
 YorJl 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 52 Ya 
 
 Ee 
 
 Nabot 
 
 Ber 
 
 53 Bakunopele 
 
 Kobbe 
 
 Gogor 
 
 .^ 
 
 54 — 
 
 Nbata 
 
 Raget 
 
 Komo 
 
 55 Gongo 
 
 Gib 
 
 Tshidir 
 
 Piara
 
 478 
 
 COMPARATIVE TABLE OF 
 
 English. 
 
 DiNKA. 
 
 MORV. 
 
 Mambetiu. 
 
 1 Sesame 
 
 Nuani 
 
 
 Blemu 
 
 2 Tlmnder 
 
 . 
 
 
 
 Komadudi 
 
 3 Bead 
 
 Nom 
 
 Di 
 
 Nedru 
 
 4 Earth 
 
 Tin 
 
 Vuku 
 
 Nape 
 
 5 Tobacco 
 
 Tabzan 
 
 
 
 Tobo 
 
 6 Nails 
 
 Reuf 
 
 
 
 Zekele 
 
 7 Bird 
 
 Dit 
 
 
 
 Nari 
 
 8 Man 
 
 Mog 
 
 Agu 
 
 Massi 
 
 9 jPacc 
 
 — 
 
 Momolu 
 
 Nango 
 
 10 To see 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 Nadumanya 
 
 11 /.90 (to fifo) 
 
 ■ — 
 
 — 
 
 Amaio 
 
 12 Alive 
 
 Ronofir 
 
 Dako 
 
 Nassoro 
 
 13 Stomach 
 
 Ingia 
 
 Amaru 
 
 Neo 
 
 14 tZ/tc/e 
 
 Wanos 
 
 — 
 
 Papaianengue
 
 NATIVE LANGUAGES. 
 
 479 
 
 BA.1IBA. 
 
 SiUDEH. 
 
 Baiu. 
 
 Lui!. 
 
 1 — 
 
 2 — 
 
 Bakita 
 
 Maineki 
 
 Kenyu 
 
 Landi 
 
 3 Molu 
 
 Li 
 
 Koe 
 
 We 
 
 4 Tandeke 
 
 Sende 
 
 Kat 
 
 Nuom 
 
 5 Taba 
 
 Gundu 
 
 
 
 
 
 6 — 
 
 Sessiuliza 
 
 Muddshin 
 
 
 
 7 Mbulo 
 
 8 Molok6 
 
 Azire 
 Kombii 
 
 Quite 
 Lalet 
 
 Winyo 
 Sora 
 
 9 Mussumo 
 
 Bangre 
 
 Komogu 
 
 Wan 
 
 10 — 
 
 Nebie 
 
 
 
 
 
 11 — 
 
 Ando 
 
 Atuon 
 
 
 
 12 — 
 
 13 Sappa 
 
 14 — 
 
 Ngaro 
 Vasse 
 Linabil 
 
 Pelli 
 
 Togo 
 Yu
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Ababua, the, 130, l;;i, 13a, 14.' 
 Abaka, the, 172 
 
 characteristics of, ;j'.» 
 
 country of, 58, 59 
 
 journey through, 5'.' 
 Abarambo,' the, 73, 90, IMI, 13-_', 135, 
 143 
 
 as hunters, 90, 9G 
 
 as slaves, 90 
 
 burial customs of, IK) 
 
 country of, 131 
 
 ivory carving by, 05 
 
 rebeUion of, 193 
 Abba, ishmd of. I'-i, -23, •_'32 
 Abbas Pasha, 15 
 
 Abd Eehman, 245. 247, 248, 292, 307 
 Abdallah Menze, 348 
 Abd-el-Aziz river, 305 
 Abd-el-Bein Aga Shiahii, Lieut., 365 
 Abd-el-Hashish, Colonel, 185 
 Abd el-Kader Pasha, 233, 234 
 Abd-el-Ralunan-el-Schafi, 10 
 Abd-el-Ssamath, 172, 203 
 Abdul Latif Pasha, 14 
 Abdullah (Niambara), 213 
 Abdul- Waab Effendi, 342, 364 
 
 death of, 304 
 Abisanga, the, 05. 70, S9, 131, 135, 143, 
 
 193 
 Abou-Adfa (granite rock), 6 
 Abu Ghemr, 16 
 Abu Hableh, 234 
 Abu Klea, 239 
 Abu Saoud. 232 
 Alui Zeir, ford of, 233 
 Abugorum, the chief, 40 
 Abukaya, the, 47, 51, 57, 172 
 Abu-Taker, wells of, tJ. 7 
 Abyssinia, 4, 10, 18 
 
 King of, 5, 10 
 Acoi, chief, 324 
 
 Achmet Mahmoud Eniin's lieuten- 
 ant), 220. 224 
 
 Adai, the, 75 
 
 Adam Pasha, 18 
 
 Adansoniu iligitata, 428 
 
 Adiggi, the, 159 
 
 Afifi, the, see Akka 
 
 Agar, the territory, 51 
 
 Agriculture, among the native tribes, 
 
 33, 80, 135 
 Ahmed Abu Eedan El-Gazzar (Gover- 
 nor of the Soudan), 14, l(i 
 Ahmed Abu Ghemr, l<'i 
 Ahmed Akkad, 205, 270 
 Ahmed Dinkani, 350 
 Ahmed ilainuoud. 342 
 Aire river, 51, 59. 00 
 Akan, mount, 11 
 Akango, Casati's servant, 107 
 Akangoi, chief, 130, 146 
 Akka river, 59, 61, 04 
 Akka, the (Pigmies), 105, 148 
 
 antiquity of, 65 
 
 arms of, 108 
 
 as hunters, 108 
 
 as waiTiors, 65, 109 
 
 dwellings of, 107 
 
 fowls, 140 
 
 language of, 107 
 
 names given to, 100 
 
 voracity of, 73, 107 
 Akkara, 180 
 
 Akmet. tableland of, 0. 7 
 Ala-el- Din Pasha, 234 
 
 death of, 234 
 Alabara, plain of, 132 
 Albert, lake, 153, 315, 316, 317, 380 
 
 Emin places his steamers on, 278 
 
 Sir S. 13aker discovers. 310 
 Albinoism, 129, 130 
 Alcohol, 181, 268 
 
 Alexandria, bombardment of. 1.S4 
 Ali Aga, 330-331, 364 
 Ali Amuri, 177 
 Ali Giabur, 353, 354 
 
 2 I
 
 482 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 All Kobbo, militnrv station, 150, 158 
 
 Ali Kortkutli, 20:;' 
 
 Ali Tasha Kako. 15 
 
 Ali Pasha Sebastopol, 15, 16 
 
 Alloba, 2;!4 
 
 AUoron, chief, 195 
 
 Amadi,56, 57, 194, 202, 20;J,.207, 212 
 
 fall of, 20'.», 210 
 Amara, chief, 309 
 Amat, Lieut., Sij^J 
 Ambambula mountains, 159, 1G8 
 Ambatsh, 2»j, 41, 91, 311, 313, 321, 322 
 Amina, little, 404 
 Amkongo, village of, 410 
 Andikenero, road to, <58 
 Anfina, Sultan, 209, 249, 307 
 Angolo, Ntikinia's General, 79 
 Apiculture, 178-179 
 Arabi Pasha, 185 
 
 Arabs, the, 23, 33, 44, 45, 47, 52, G3, 
 69, 74, 7G, 80, 81, 88, 156, 162, 190, 
 239, 246 
 Arakel Bev, 16 
 Arms, of the Akka, 108 
 
 of the Dinka, 32 
 
 of the Mambettu, 84, 85 
 
 of the Monfu, 69 
 
 of the Sandeh, 141 
 Aruwimi river, 155, 156, 338, 386 
 Assouan, 13 
 Asrael, 232 
 Assua river, 319 
 Assuti, Captain, death of, 3(')9 
 Atbara river, 9 
 Atmoor Bajuda, 16 
 Atmoor Gabra, 16 
 Attikendi, chief, 371 
 Atot (Dinka), 52 
 Auel, mount, 22 
 Aukadebbe river, 155 
 Avamba, country of, 107 
 Avungula, Prince, 142 
 Awad, chief, 40 
 Ayak, 51, 52, 53, 172, 194, 202 
 Ayu, station, 224, 368 
 Ayu river, 59, 224 
 Azanga, King, 67, 81, 97, 109, 164, 165 
 
 dancing, 124 
 
 entertains Casati, 67 
 
 fall of, 165 
 
 forbids Casati's departure, 125 
 
 residence of, 116 
 
 Ba, 172 
 
 Babedongo, chief, 248, 289, 292, 307, 
 
 341, 382 
 15abuker, the, 172 
 Bachit Bey, Lieut.-Col., 163, 194 
 I'achit Aga Bargut, 365 
 Bachit Aga Mohammed, 364 
 
 Bagamoyo, 44, 337, 426, 427, 440 
 Baganghese, 261, 307, 385 
 
 invasion of, 281 
 Baggara, the, 22, 23, 232 
 
 cattle of, 22 
 Baghinde, chief, iH, 188, 193 
 
 the village, 61 
 Baghirmi, 155 
 
 Baginse, mountains of, 59, 60, 159 
 Bagonza, chief, 249 
 Bahr-el-Abiad, or White Nile, 11, 155. 
 
 177 
 Bahr-el-Arab, 27, 92 
 Bahr-el-Ardhe, 155 
 Bahr-el-Azrak, or Blue Nile, 11 
 Bahr-el-Ghazal, 25, 35, 36, 44, 46, 47 
 
 Gessi's voyage up the, 93 
 
 obstructions on the, 318 
 
 l^rovince of, 19, 21 
 Balir-el-Homr, 92 
 Bahr-el-Zarafe, 218 
 Bakangoi, King, 72, 131, 135, 144 
 
 detains Casati, 137 
 
 modes of punishment bv, i;!i'>, 
 137 
 
 village of, 135, 136 
 
 war against, 144, 145 
 Baker, Sir Samuel, 23, 181, 195, 31t;, 
 
 317 
 Baker Pasha, 18, 44, 235 
 Balseniceps Rex, the, 27 
 Balanga, King, 79, 81, 129 
 
 death of, "81 
 Ballula, chief, 292, 326 
 Bamba, the, 62, 65, 71, 79, 80, 101 
 
 table of language of, 475, 477, 479 
 Banalya, 374 
 
 Bananas, 60, 67, 69, 71, 72, 86, 112, 
 116, 120, 121, 132, 160, 168, 171. 
 258, 269, 323, 387, 399 
 
 beer made of, 121, 268 
 Banana Point, 374 
 
 Jkinassiira, the, 272, 273, 275, 279, 28 J, 
 291, 292, 297, 305 
 
 arms of, 273, 285 
 Bandirna, a dance, 102 
 Bangala, 374 
 Bangue, chief, 136, 146 
 Bantu, the, 261 
 
 Banyans (Indian merchants}, 4 
 Barabra, chief, 306 
 
 Bari, the, 21, 34, 207, 223, 227, 316, 
 333 
 
 as hanassura, 273 
 
 as hunters of crocodiles, 361 
 
 burial customs of, 208 
 
 characteristics of, 208, 209. 219 
 
 dwellings of. 208 
 
 legends" of, 219, 220 
 
 table of language of, 475, 477, 
 479
 
 INDEX. 
 
 483 
 
 Baringo, lake, 337 
 Barth the traveller, 155 
 Barttelot, Major, 373, 374 
 Basin ge. Gl 
 Basili, clerk, 409 
 Bassua, the, 408 
 Batata edidls — see Potato 
 Batanga, 59, 60 
 Batengande, 146 
 Baiili, chief, 76, 81, 129 
 Bazimbe, chief, 151 
 Beatrice, gulf, 318 
 Becker, Capt., 156, 157, 158 
 Bedden, 317 
 Bederi, 59 
 Beer, 30 
 
 (aioa), 101 
 
 banana beer, 121, 268 
 
 (merissa), 181 
 Befo, chief, 353 
 Beiga, village of, 69 
 Belledi, 59, 60 
 Bellima, 67, 70 
 
 observations at. 451 
 Berber. 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 16, 43, 239 
 Beshir Salah, 61, 81 
 Bidongo, woods of, 282 
 Biri, Mohammed, 230, 245, 247, 248, 
 276, 289, 292 
 
 at Juaya, 248, 296 
 
 at Wadelai, 249 
 
 bound to a tree, 299 
 
 departs for Uganda, 248 
 
 prevented from entering Unvoro, 
 246 
 
 servant of, arrested, 278 
 
 starts for Kibiro, 248 
 Bishareen Arabs, 7, 8 
 Bitto river, 71, 80 
 Blima river, 158, 159 
 Blood-brotherhood, 149 
 Bodo, fort, 333, 373 
 Boduma river, 60 
 Boki, chief, 324 
 
 death of, 371 
 
 territory of, 309 
 Bombe, see Sandeh 
 
 Bomokandi river, 59, 68, 114, 139, 
 146, 158 
 
 hydrographic system of the, 139 
 
 territory of the, 35, 78, 131, 135 
 Bondimano, 130, 131, 139 
 Boneira, territory of, 427 
 Bongo, the, 70, 172 
 Boiigola, 61 
 Bonny, William, 374 
 
 arrival at Were, 382 
 Boquara river, 75, 158 
 Bor, 205, 212 
 Bora, village of, 363 
 Bornu, 155 
 
 Brun Rollet, 21 
 Bubo river, 435 
 Buemba, 285 
 
 Buffaloes, 48, 71, 132, 139, 160, 209, 
 225, 323 
 
 hunting of, 99 
 
 uses for hides of. 179 
 Bufi station, 52, 53, 54, 56, 202 
 Buguera, 382, 385, 386, 388, 399 
 Buhogo, village of, 40:') 
 Bunjunge. 406 
 Bukorongo, 411 
 Bunazza, 170 
 Bungu river, 168 
 Burci, an Arab, 56 
 Burial customs — 
 
 of the Abarambo, 1 1 •> 
 
 of the Bari, 208 
 
 of the Donagla 49, 50 
 
 of the Mambettu. 115, 116 
 
 of the Wamj-oro, 271 
 Bwasse, battle near 4oS 
 
 Cabaca, King op Uganda's title, 
 
 246, 251 
 Cairo, 14, 17, 19, 41, 233 
 Camaran, island of, 4 
 Cameron, B. L., 156, 316 
 Camperio, Manfredo, 2, 189 
 Canoes, building of, 290 
 Casati, Major — 
 
 arrives at Buguera, 385 
 
 arrives at Meshra-el-Rek, 28, 29 
 
 arrives at Tangasi, 71, 152 
 
 arrives at the British Mission, 
 422 
 
 bound to a tree, 299 
 
 descends the Makua, 73, 74 
 
 dwelling of, ransacked, 304 
 
 escape of, 310 
 
 explorations of, on the Welle- 
 Makua, 153-159 
 
 goes to Emin at Msua, 329 
 
 goes to see Guakamatei'a, 298, 
 299 
 
 illness of. 44, 45, 419 
 
 Kagoro shelters, 306 
 
 leaves for I'nyoro, 231 
 
 letter of, to the JJsjjloratore, 189- 
 193 
 
 meets Junker, 77 
 
 meets Gessi, 36 
 
 on a journey with Emin, 186 
 
 on the slave trade, 189-193 
 
 outrages on, 125, 186 
 
 proposals of, to Emin, 211, 212, 
 277 
 
 starts for Were, 384 
 
 visits Miani's grave, 72 
 Ceylon, island of, 1<>5
 
 484 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Chioipanzee-s, CI, 71, 1 1.', 117, ll';5, 124, 
 
 132, 258, 259, WIW, ■.',H7 
 Chippcndale, iJ?, ,jl7 
 Chua, King (Kabba Koga). 2 42, 2'.t;; 
 
 abamlons Jnaya, 254 * 
 
 cows of, 24.') 
 
 court or, 244, 200 
 
 Muanya wages war agaiii.it, 242 
 
 obese women of, 27'.i 
 
 sentences of, 2(30 
 Cobesurc, a dance, ]()2 
 Coraboni, Bislioj), 12 
 Condo, order of, 25;!, 265 
 Congo river, 153, 156, 159 
 Congo Free State, 156, 339 
 Crocodiles, 9, 48. 55, 67, 74, 209 
 
 on the Victoria Nile, 322 
 
 the Bari as hunters of, 361 
 Cijpria moneta (cowries), 225-227. 269 
 
 Da.mjji pavKK, 4;!8 
 
 Darner, 17 
 
 Dances, 33, 49, 101, 102, 127 
 
 Danga, chief, 16(j 
 
 Darfur, 12 
 
 Dara, 38, 233, 234 
 
 Debba-el-Kobra, 14 
 
 Debra-Tabor. 5 
 
 Defterdar Pasha, l;! 
 
 Deki river, 386 
 
 Dem Idris, 38 
 
 Gessi occupies. 38 
 Dem Solyman, 40. 207 
 Denab, xee Fashoda 
 Dender river, 16 
 Denham, Major, 154 
 Derumkat, wady of, 6, 7 
 Dinka Agar, 52J 56 
 Dinka, the, 44. 47, 53, 195, 227 
 
 agriculture amongst, 33 
 
 arms of, 32 
 
 as snake charmer.s, 31 
 
 customs and usages of, 29, 3o 
 
 dwellings of, 29 
 
 food of, 30, 64 
 
 government station amongst, 29 
 
 pastimes of, 33 
 
 rivals of the Nuer, 26 
 
 table of language of, 474. 476, 478 
 Dinka (Eliab), 54 
 Dinka Rek, 29 
 
 Dispensers of rain, 90, 209, 271 
 Dokoto mountain, 152 
 Dombolo, village of, 431 
 Donagla, the, 23, 46, 54, 56, 61, 62, m, 
 81 
 
 burial ser\ices of, 49, 50 
 
 the marriage ceremonies of, 48, 
 49 
 Dongola, 13, 14, 16, 17, 47, 53, 238 
 
 Dongu river, 50, 57, 59, 60, 61, 03, 64, 
 
 67, 75, 158, 172 
 Dongu station, 198 
 Duemme, 22, 233, 234 
 Dufile, 37, 224, 225, 332 
 Duru river, 59, 60, 158, 172 
 
 Eaele, General, 239 
 
 Edi river, 60 
 
 Egyptians, the, 40 
 
 Elephants, 27, 48, 53, 59, 71, 96, 97, 
 130, 1.32, 139, 152, 177, 209, 224, 
 225 258 323 
 fables' about. 111, 151, 152 
 native names for, 97 
 
 Eleusina coracana, 257 
 
 El Fasher, 20 
 
 El-Golman, King, 13 
 
 El Homr, 28 
 
 El-Homran, 13 
 
 El Koweh, 22, 23 
 
 El Mai, Arab chief, 80, 81 
 
 El Maki Nasser, 16 
 
 El Obeid station, 12, 233, 234 
 
 El Rahad river, 17 
 
 El- Sufi Mekerebba, 17 
 
 El Taker, 18 
 
 El-Teb, battle of, 236, 237 
 
 Elias Bey, 16 
 
 Ello river, 71, 186 
 
 Emiliani, Francesco, 38, 39 
 
 Emin Pasha, 53, 106, 163, 172, 174, 
 194 
 a prisoner at Dufil(5, 350 
 and Major Rehan Aga, 213 
 and the mutineers, 349 
 arrival at Tunguru of, 343 
 as Governor-General, 174 
 as the scientist, 225 
 charges against, 342 
 collection of birds of, 372 
 conversations of, with Casati, 
 
 211 
 embarks for ]\Isua, 328 
 e7i route to Wadelai, 359 
 flees to Muggi, 331 
 foolish remark of, 200 
 goes to Dufil.^, 331, 350 
 goes to Wadelai, 225, 331 
 has words with Stanley, 396 
 house of, searched, 356 
 journeys to Mambettuland, 186 
 letter from, 173, 195 
 letter of, to Selira Matera, 376 
 news from, 195 
 
 one of the servants of, killed, 408 
 plots against, 331 
 plots to assas.sinate, 220, 221 
 report of, to the Enploratore, 177- 
 184
 
 INDEX. 
 
 485 
 
 Emin Pasha, report from, 174-184 
 
 searches for the Expedition, 329 
 Equatoria, Province of, 44, 174, 176, 
 
 1%, 317, 339 
 I'Wica arbon'd, 408 
 Em, the, 80, 103 
 lOthiopian mountains, 6, 9 
 iOtuen mountain, 22 
 Ihiphorbia rnndelabra, 208, 4u9 
 /■Jtcphorbia reneficu, 255 
 
 Fabi.es — 
 
 of the Ban, 219, 220 
 
 of the Dinka, 34 
 
 of the Lur, 227 
 
 of the Mambettu, 110, 111 
 
 of the Sandeh, 151, 152 
 
 of the Wanyoro, 202 
 Fabo station, 350 
 Fadasi, 220 ' 
 
 Fadibek, defeat of the Shooli at, I 
 
 250 
 Fadl, 310, 313 
 
 promotion of, 32(3 
 Fajelu, the, 208 
 F;irag Yu:<ef, Capt., 205 
 Farajak, forests of, 258, 307 
 Furak Mohammed, 14 
 Faratch Ajoke, Capt., 194 
 Farsan, archipelago of, 4 
 Fashoda, 23, 24, 218 
 Fatelmula, 347, 350, 353, 358, 370 
 
 420 
 Fatiko, 180, 250 
 Fazoklo, 13, 16 
 Felkin, Dr., 335 
 
 Ferida, Emin's daughter, 356, 357 
 Fish, in the Victoria Nile, 322 
 Fola, waterfall of. :!17, 319 
 Foweira station, 317 
 Fraccaroli, 20 
 Furs, 179, 180 
 
 Ga.\fak Pasiia Mazaai;, is 
 Gaafar Pasha fSadek, 18 
 Gaba Shambe, 56 
 Gabologgo mountains. 61, 172 
 Gabra desert, 16 
 
 Gadda river, 67, 70, 71, 1.58, 159, 
 198 
 
 crossing of the. 187 
 Gadda station — 
 
 agriculture at, 71 
 
 animals in the region of, 71 
 
 meteorological observations at, 
 442-452 
 Galla, the, 24, 262 
 Gambari, chief, (t'o, 67. 81, 164, 193 
 Gango, district of, 67, 68, 70 
 
 Gango, Munza's brother, 79, 81 
 Gangobu, chief, 187 
 Garamba river, 59, 61, 172 
 Gaspari Marco, 52 
 Gattas, merchant, 35 
 Gaugua rivulet, 60 
 Gavazzi, Antonio, 15'> 
 Gazelles, 431 
 Gellabat, 16, 4(1 
 Genoa, 2, 5 
 
 Gessi Pasha, 33, 35, 39, 4u. 41, 14. 47, 
 67, 71, 17.5, 316, 317 
 
 captures Solyman, 38 
 
 completes the exploration nf the 
 Albert Lake, 37 
 
 death of, 91 
 
 departure of, 38, 45 
 
 diary of, 91-96 
 
 is invited to Khartoum, 4ii 
 
 leaves Rumbek, 38 
 
 letter from, 29 
 
 meeting with, 36 
 
 occupies Dcm Idris, 38 
 
 takes possession of Dem Sol vman, 
 38 
 Ghazal river, ti.e Balu--el-Ghazal 
 Ghiaden Aga, 3;>0 
 Giegler Pasha, 19, 41, 233 
 Giglioli, Professor, on chimpanzees, 
 
 259 
 Giraffes, 48 
 Giraud, Father. 431 
 Gog-el-Hassan, \illage of, 4() 
 Gog Mouktar, village of, 4(> 
 Gombe Yaicougo, 431 
 Gondar, 16 
 Gondokoro, 21, 195. 227 
 
 Sir S. Baker's arrival at. 316 
 Gora, village of, 38 
 Gordon, Col., 12, 316, 33ii 
 Gordon, General, 18, 19, 20, 37, 38. 39. 
 19.J, 230, 233, 235, 239 
 
 death of, 240 
 
 despatches a Hotilla, 238 
 
 occupies Bor, 316 
 
 proclaims the independence of 
 the Soudan at Berber. 235 
 
 writes from Lado, 'Ml 
 Goz Regab, 17 
 Gi'ant. Capt., 316 
 Graham, General. 237 
 Gravenreuth, Ca})t., 44(t 
 Grenfell. explorations of, 156, .324 
 Guakamatera, chief, 288, 289, 297- 
 
 306, 328 
 Guamirma, Chua retires to, 282 
 Gubat, 239 
 
 Gumangi. death of, 249 
 Gumba, territory of, 151 
 Gurba river, 159 
 Guruguru, province of, 172
 
 486 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 164, 
 , 355, 
 
 ;!;t5 
 
 218, 
 370, 
 
 IT'.i 
 
 Hadksdowa, the, ■_':!;'. 
 
 Halfaya, 10 
 
 Halam I'a.-li;), 15 
 
 Hamid Aira, .Major. ."J.'id, 354, 304 
 
 death of, ;;ii4 
 Hamis, the meic-liant. -S'.i 
 Hauniiigtoii, IJishop, ■.'4"-', 415 
 Hantub, If. 
 
 Harun, relu'l chief, execution of, 31t 
 Hassan Aga, 55 
 Hassan V'ita, 19i;, 344. 350 
 
 prisoner at Dufile. 350 
 Hawashi Efl'endi. Major, lt)2, 
 221. 224. 330, ;;4:!, 347, 354 
 3!t4 
 Hellem, Capt. 1 Ibrahim, 31*4. 
 Jlcliiiiu hiilliifei-a, 268 
 Herodotus, extract from, IK 
 Hicks, General, I'.MJ, 234 
 
 death of. 234 
 Hippopotami. '••. 25, (U. 74. 
 
 209, 225, 323 
 Hodeida, 345 
 
 Hurshid, Circassian soldier, 310. 313 
 320 
 
 death of. 326 
 Hyenas, 160, 25s 
 
 iBBA ElVKJ!, hU 
 
 Ibis, the holy bird. l.> 
 
 Ibrahim, 89" 
 
 Ibrahim liey, Governor of Nessib. 16 
 
 Ibrahim I'asha, 13, 15 
 
 Ibrahim Mohammed Gnrusurn, 173, 
 
 194 
 Idio, the, 142 
 India-rnbber, 161, 183 
 Ingabeto, 73 
 Irangara, island of, 4ln 
 Ireta, chief, 264, 382 
 Irrengere river, 439 
 Ismail Pasha, the Khedive, 12, 185, 
 
 316 
 Ismail Ayoub Pasha. Is 
 Ismail Eey Hakki, 17 
 Issu rivtr. 59, 60 
 Itimbiri river, 156, 157, 159 
 Itnri river. 375, 386. '399, 400 
 
 waterparting of, 406 
 Ivory, 39. 61, 97,"l61. 177, 375 
 
 "native uses of. 83. 86. 98 
 
 table of export ol, 178 
 
 trade in, 47. 172 
 
 JamksoN, 373 
 Jau river, 4G, 60 
 Jebel Kadar, 232 
 
 Jephson. A. J., x. 333. 339. 343, 344, 
 348, 35(1, 373 
 
 Jephson, A. J., as a sportsman, 373 
 
 departure of, from Msna, 376 
 Jidda, 3, 4, 7 
 Jikombi, 415 
 Joddo, 404 
 Jongolo, the, 4U0 
 Jonyo, forest of, 436 
 Juaya, 121, 283, 288 
 
 birth of Amina at, 4(j4 
 
 Chua abandons, 254 
 
 sacrifices to the Mapimii) at, 252. 
 253 
 
 tableland of, 256 
 
 tanners in, 268 
 
 trades in the markets of, 268 
 Juguro, mountains of, 322 
 
 chief of, 341 
 Junker, Dr., 36, 89, 91, 156, 157. 163, 
 197, 209 
 
 arrival of, amongst the Aliarambo. 
 73 
 
 Casati's meeting with. 77 
 
 letter from, 73 
 Jur Gattas, 42, 44, 67 
 Jur river, 28, 35, 39, 92 
 
 Kabatl'KO, 68 
 
 Kabayendv, 173, 198 
 
 Kabba Rega, 72, 121, 229, 231. 241 ; 
 
 and see Chua 
 Kabamiro, Chua's brother, 256 
 
 death of, 243 
 Kabonga, chief, 404 
 Kabrafa, Munza's brother, 79, 81, 125, 
 
 164 
 Kadar mount, 233 
 Kadebo, ^jl6, 81, 194 
 Kafu, or river of death, 256, 285 
 Kagera river, 316, 412, 417 
 Kagoro, chief of Kibiro, 3u6, 341 
 Kaka village, 23 
 Kaled Pasha, 14 
 Kambi, village of, 436 
 Kamissua, 267, 287 
 
 murder of, 267 
 Kamrasi. King, 242, 286 
 
 burial of, 271 
 Kamsa, Kanna's brother, 14s 
 Kanna, Ntikima's son, 109. 131, 144 
 
 Casati received by, 148 
 
 Casati's blood-brotherhood with, 
 150 
 
 Court of, 148 
 
 modes of punishment Ijy. 148 
 
 son of, 151 
 
 war against, 131 
 Kapalata, 433 
 Kapidi, chief, 309 
 Kapili river, 59, 158, 159 
 Karagua. 291. 316, 412. 41S
 
 INDEX. 
 
 487 
 
 Karbado, Gambaii's son, 07 
 Karcma, King, 415 
 Kassa, King of Abyssinia, ;") 
 Kassala, 5, 17, 2:59 
 
 Kategora, King Chua's minister, 245, 
 248 
 
 dcatli of, 248 
 Katenta, 899 
 Katcr EfYendi, 15 
 Katereul luountain, 11 
 Katikiro, Miinasa's minister, 415 
 Ivatongoli, cliief, 287, 288 
 Katonzi, chief, '-VM, .">72, .■)82 
 Katto, chief, 292, 371 
 Katiia station, 2()4 
 
 arrival of the Exiiedilion at, 409 
 Ivaiito, chief. 288 
 Karalla, death of, 4u.s 
 Kavalli, camii at, 887 
 
 hills of, 322 
 KaA-arongli ri%'er, 2SS 
 Kavira, Muanga's brotlier, 415 
 Kedaref, 20 
 Kelisi, district of, 427 
 Keremallah, Mohammed .Slicik, 195, 
 
 207, 212, 215 
 Khartoum, 5. 7. 9. 12, IG, 20, 89, 41, 
 48, 55, 17(i, 198, 288. 2.;4 
 
 death of Gordon at, 240 
 
 fall of, 213 
 
 the Mahdi writes from, 212 
 Khor Ayu, 218. 849 
 Kiambali, 4(I9 
 Kiani, 288, 292 
 Kiani Cassangoro, 285 
 Kibali, i^ve Jlakna 
 Kibararo, 288 
 
 Kibiro, 281, 247, 2s5, 292, 80(3, 8lS, 
 821 
 
 Emin leaves, 291 
 
 massacre at, 841 
 
 salt at. 828 
 Kidete river, 43.S 
 Kieya, 2()4. 821. 872 
 Kifa. chief, 154 
 Kinn. chief. 109. 108. li)9 
 Kio, lake. 204. 41(i 
 Kiriangobi. forest of. 250, 258, 821 
 
 tableland of. 250 
 Kirk. Sir John. 28(i 
 Kirota. 817 
 
 Kirri station. 211, 222, 292. 817 
 Kisa, chief. 245. 40(i 
 
 death of. 249. 258 
 Kitana, mountain of. 285 
 
 tableland of. 250. 258, 8OO 
 Kitega, 895, 415 
 Kitindi, forest of. 4ln 
 Klivo river. 75, 15s 
 Koddero, the, 50 
 Koddo, the, 50 
 
 Kokreb, 5, 
 
 wad J of, 6 
 Kolikio, chief, 828 
 Koquaro river, 67 
 
 Koran, the, extracts fro)u, 393, 894 
 Kordofan, 12, 15, 16, 20, 22, 238 
 Korfo, 59 
 
 Korobe, heights of, 207, 211 
 Korti, 288 
 
 Koweh, territory of, 2_' 
 Kubi, King, 81 
 Kubanda river, 155 
 Kudurma, 51, 198, 240 
 Kuko, the, 208 
 Kumbiere, 400 
 Kuta liver, 155 
 Kutchiik-Ali, village of, 85, 4i» 
 
 Laboee, 220, 224, 319 
 
 Lado, 41, 42, 57, 61, 170, 185, 310 
 
 attack on, 229 
 
 Casati leaves, 219 
 
 Emin's departure from. 218 
 
 Government transferred to, 810 
 
 Governor of, 198 
 
 Mahdist threats against. 210 
 
 prejiared for defence. 202 
 
 salt near, 209 
 
 the garrison of, 211 
 Lango, the, 250 
 
 tournaments of, 2.'J0, 251 
 Language of the Eamba, 475, 477, 479 
 
 "of the Bari, 475, 477, 479 
 
 of the Dinka, 474, 470, 478 
 
 of the Lur, 475, 477, 479 
 
 of the Mambettu, 474, 470, 478 
 
 of the Moru, 474, 476, 478 
 
 of the Sandeh, 475, 477, 479 
 Latooka, people of, 91 
 Leghorn, 2 
 Lendu range, 58 
 
 Leopards, 48, 54, 100, 179, 209, 224 
 258 
 
 Bari's fear of, 2o7 
 
 skins of, 179 
 Leria, people of, 208 
 Lesi, 51, 53 
 
 rebels of, 208 
 Lesmo, Casati's birthplace, v 
 Lesseps, garden of, 2 
 Lighi, the, 208 
 Lindv, 44 
 Lions, 48, 100, 209, 224, 2.58 
 
 Bari's fear of, 207 
 
 skins of, 1()0 
 Livingstone, David, 811) 
 Loggo, the, 173 
 
 region of, 158 
 Loika, see Itimbiri river 
 Lubi, see Itimbiri river
 
 488 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Liijroi', cliiel', '.>1 
 Lulu river, ].")7 
 Lupton Bey, 195 
 
 hiuTcnders to tbeMalRli. liKJ 
 Lur, the, 225, 246, 311 
 
 goats of, 180 
 
 lei:ends of, 227 
 
 of Melindwa, 264 
 
 rule of. 227 
 
 table of language of, 475, 477. 47'.l 
 
 Mabitu, the, 242, 265 
 
 Mabode, the, 65 
 
 Maboli, the, 168 
 
 Mabu, chief, 73, 409 
 
 Mackav. :Mr., 230. 246, 276. ;!'.)."i, 41:! 
 
 422 ' 
 Mackiunon, Sir "Williaiu. .'i.i:! 
 JIadi, the, 224 
 
 small colonv of, 172 
 Madundi, 261, 371 
 Madungule, 74 
 Magapa, King, 79, 10."! 
 Magaya, 261 
 
 Maynora. the, 242, 264, 265 
 Magombia, village of, 436 
 Magungo, 307. 311 
 
 peninsula of, 257, 327 
 Magunga Baba, 323 
 Mahatuk, battle of, 224 
 Mahdi, the, and Mahdisni. 22, 2i 
 53, 129, 195, 196, 200, 203, 
 234, 239 
 
 coins of, 368 
 
 letter from, 212, 21:!. 364-36S 
 
 occuj^ies Kordofan, •_';!3 
 Mahmoud Ahmed, 361 
 Maingo river, 146 
 Maigo. the. 65. 71, 101, isr, 
 
 invasion of, 65 
 Maize, 181, 257 
 ilakama, title nf the }sa\vs of Unvurn. 
 
 91, 246, 279, 293,311 
 Wakamba, 293 
 Makavaro, chief, 278 
 Makiera, Governor's iuteri^reter, 32s 
 Wakomero, reservoirs of, 432 
 2JaJion(io, 265 
 Makongo river, 139, 159 
 
 region of, 65 
 Makraka, ihe, 56, 172, 198, 207 
 
 as blacksmiths, 184 
 
 ('asati goes to, 197 
 
 devastation of, 205 
 
 gardens of, 205 
 
 region of, 205 
 
 the Sandeh of, 111 
 Makua, the, 57, 59, 65, 89, 15:]-158, 
 334 
 
 affluents of, 60. 155 
 
 i, 44, 
 2:iL'- 
 
 Makua, the, arrival on, 7:>, 74 
 
 Casati's source of. 157, 158 
 
 conquest of the region of, 79 
 
 region of, 74, 78 
 
 various names of, 156 
 
 watershed of, 157, 158 
 Malemba river, see Semliki 
 Malissa, chief, 427 
 Mambaga, mountains of, 131 
 Mambana river, 135. 146 
 Mambanga, King, 62, 73, 75, 76. 77. 81, 
 88, 112, 164. 193 
 
 heroism of, 88, 89 
 
 sentenced to death, 188 
 Mambare, the, 65, 71, 75, 101 
 Mambettu, the, 65, i'}^), 101, lur, 
 
 arms of, 84, 85 
 
 burial customs of, 116 
 
 customs of, 85 
 
 dances of, 101. 102 
 
 defeat of, 89. 143 
 
 dress of. 82, 83 
 
 fables of. 110, 111 
 
 food of, 112 
 
 legends of, 123 
 
 modes of execution of, 1 1 1 
 
 ornamentation of the bodies of, 
 83 
 
 superstitions of. 111 
 
 table of language of, 474, 476, 478 
 
 tools and manufactures of, 85 
 
 tournaments among, 103 
 Mambettuland, 63, 137 
 
 Casati and Emin journey to, 186 
 
 route to, 195 
 
 stations in, 202 
 Mambia river, 132 
 Mandari, the, 56, 208 
 Mange, chief, 129. 144. 151 
 Manioc, 64, 67, 71, 86. 112, 116. 120, 
 
 139, 160, 171, 172 
 Manyema, the, 373, 375, 389. 403 
 Manzoca, 400 
 Mapincjo, the (Mambettu oracle). 89, 
 
 119, 164 
 Jlapinf/omhic, priest of the maphuio, 89 
 Mapulior, mountains of, 131 
 Mar, torrent, 46 
 Marco, see Gaspari Marco 
 Mari, the, 64 
 Maria-Theresa dollars, 14 
 Marno, 96 
 
 Marquet, Albert, merchant, 5. 20 
 Marra, mount, 38 
 Marriage ceremonies — 
 
 among the blacks, 101, 102 
 
 of the Donagla, 48 
 IMarsekute, 16 
 Masai, the. 337, 430 
 
 arms of, 430 
 
 agriculture of. 430
 
 INDEX. 
 
 489 
 
 Masai, the, country, 4;J0 
 
 language of, 430 
 Masinde, chief, 74 
 Mason, Colonel. .".17 
 Massowali, .i, 4, h 
 Matako, 43(1 
 
 Mdtamare (granaries). -'4], •_'H4 
 Matungoli, 204 
 Matmizi, chief, "iH'.* 
 Mausea river, 43(1 
 Mavona, village of, 4la 
 Mazamboni. chief, .39St 
 Ma/.zuchelli, 4 
 Mbagungue river, 400 
 Mbala, Mnnza's son, 81, 82 
 Mhami, elephant, !»7 
 Mbeke, 14(') 
 Mbili river, 142 
 Mbioko, chief, 14f. 
 Mbitima, 1!I4 
 Mboga, 264, 40C., 407 
 JJhoma, flying squim-l, 1(»5 
 Mbombu river, 15!t 
 Mhonijo, elephant, 'J7 
 Mbru'o, chief, 90, 193 
 Mbruole river, \hA, loit 
 Jlbna, chief, 14(; 
 Mbueri river, 7.0, 158 
 Mbuti, village of, 399 
 Mbuzi, Munga's envoy. 2.0() 
 Mdarama, King, 40 
 Mege, the, 05, 78, 79, l(i9, 114. 148. 
 165, 166, 167 
 
 agriculture of, 168 
 
 as elephant hunters, 65, 168 
 
 as hunters, 168 
 
 oharacteri.stics of, 168 
 
 food of, 168 
 
 tribes of, 168 
 Mege-Maigo, 109 
 Mege-Mapau. 171 
 Meikambi,291 
 Mekka riv(>r, f'>s 
 Melbes, T-'A 
 Mehndwa, lu-ights of, 322 
 
 chief of the Lur of, 324 
 Melino, chief, 309 
 Melle, the, 225 
 Melzac, the merchant, 47 
 Merawe, cataract of, 239 
 Mergian Aga Danassuri, death of. 
 
 312 
 Mergian Ali, 53 
 Meriddi river, 60 
 Meroe, ruins of, 10 
 Meshra-el-Dahi, battle of, 234 
 Meshra^el-Kek, 41, 92 
 
 Casati arrives at, 28, 29 
 Messedaglia, 6, 19, 38, 39, 234, 2:i6 
 Messiiui, 2 
 Mctenimeh, 9. 10,239 
 
 Meteorological observations — 
 
 at Uellima station, 451 
 
 at Gadda station, 442-452 
 
 at Juaya station. 4.05-468 
 
 notes on, 453-4.54, 469-472 
 Metingji river, 60 
 Mgaliiuu, Akka chief, 107 
 Mgunda-Mkali, forest of, 432 
 Miani, 63, 71, 79, 135, 316 
 
 at Dufil(5, 21 
 
 grave of, 72 
 
 itinerary of, 151 
 
 presents from, 136 
 Michael Saad, 23 
 Mikindany, 44 
 Milk ceremony, 267 
 Milz, Lieut., 156 
 Mina, cape, 322 
 Mire, mountains of, 207 
 Miro, village of, 399 
 Mitinginya, chief, 428, 429 
 Mkate river, 439 
 j\[obra, chi(!f, 131, 144 
 Mogo, chief, 333 
 Mohammed Abdu, 56, 70, 88 
 Mohammed Ahmed, see Mahdi 
 Mohammed Ali Pasha, Vicerov, 12, 13, 
 
 15 
 Mohammed Biri, sec Biri 
 Mohammed Farak, 14 
 Mohammed Mula, 47 
 Mohammed Tcwfik Pasha, 19 
 ]\Ioliamme(ians, the, 7, 19, 155 
 Mohren-el-Bohur, 318 
 Mokondokua river, 438 
 Mombasa, .339 
 Mombia river, 60 
 Momboiko, chief, 146 
 Mombuttn, tribe of the ^lonfu, 78 
 Momul river, 35 
 Mona river. 132 
 Moncrief, Captain, 2.35 
 Mondoghi, chief, 81 
 Mondora, the ^Mirror, 22 
 Moiifu, the, 65, 68, 78, 81, 106, 139, 
 193 
 
 arms of, 69 
 
 as slaves, 192 
 
 Casati goes to the country of, 
 67 
 
 explorations in, 106 
 
 mode of fighting amongst, 69 
 
 l^roducts of, 68, 69 
 Mongiana mountain, 146 
 Monkeys, 258 
 
 Moon, mountains uf the, 255, 412 
 Moranda, 146, 422 
 
 hills of, 283 
 
 tableland of, 256 
 -Aloru, the, 47, 56, 57 
 
 table of language of, 474, 476, 478
 
 49° 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Mosconas, Demcl dos, Greek gentk- 
 
 man, 5 
 Monktar Aga, IS 
 Moussa Pasha, Iti, 17 
 Mpango, ceremony of tlie, 242. 2.")2, 
 
 25:5, 265 
 ^Il)igwa, cliief. :)))'■'> 
 Mj.inga, chief, .-JO'.t 
 Mpogo, sw;imp. 414 
 Mrogoio river, 4.'!'.i 
 Mruli, 250, 264, 287, 41<t 
 Msaka river, 482 
 Msiri, 250 
 Msoga, 209 
 Msun, 245, 285 
 Msucah', village of, 408 
 
 suli^hnrous spi-ing in, 418 
 iMtara, village of, 419 
 Mtesa, King, 242, 317 
 ^[ualata, basin of, 433, 434 
 Muanga, King of Uganda, 241. 275, 
 307 
 
 escape of, 415 
 Muchora, 409 
 Muenghe, 250 
 
 Kamissua mnrdered at, 207 
 Muggi, 121, 219, 223, 317, 331 
 
 Emin flees to, 331 
 Muicu, village of, 400 
 Muimba, 270 
 
 abandonment and burnini;- of, 
 283 
 
 the king abandons, 282 
 
 the natives leave, 278 
 Mnninga, 400 
 Miinza, King, 50, 03, GO, 71, 72, 79, 80 
 
 animals at the palace of, 100 
 
 death of, 80, 145 
 
 family of, 100 
 
 Mange protected by, 144 
 
 residence of, 151 
 Muraka, stone, 8 
 Mussanga, 436 
 j\Iv stall fazlne, guardians of the peaci', 
 
 18 
 ^lustapha Ahmed, 353 
 
 N.VCHTIOAL, Dr., 1.55 
 Nacoya river, 61 
 Nadomba, 140 
 Nadumbaia, 140 
 Naghiza, chief, 108 
 Nagugo, 135 
 Nala river, 139, 159 
 Nangrebondo, forest of, 78 
 Naples, 2 
 Nasser, King, 17 
 Naunga country, 407 
 Nava river, 158, 159 
 Ndagora, King, 419 
 
 Ndcni, 135, 142 
 Ndinda, chief, 400 
 Ndirfi mountains, 58, 172 
 Ndongo, 74 
 Ndubala, 78, 144 
 
 Ca.sati's arrival at, 148 
 Ndula, the, 103 
 Nebotto, chief, 171 
 Nedupia, 131 
 Negokolo, 135 
 Negro soldiers, 4;!, 44 
 Neklima river, 81, 129 
 Nekora, 135, 139 
 Nelimba river, 151 
 Nembeleti, 79 
 Nembia river. Oi> 
 Nembimbali, ()5, 78 
 Nemr, King, 12, 13 
 Nenzima, Queen, 100 
 Nepoko river, 139 
 
 district of, 05 
 Nessugo, King, 80. 81, 129 
 
 death of,"82 
 Netuko river, 75, 158 
 Nelson, Capt,, 395, 403 
 Ngandua, King, 135, 144, 140 
 Nganzi, King, 120, 131, 133, 134, 144, 
 145 
 
 favourite instruments, 133 
 Ngasi, see Tanga.si 
 Ngazi, see Semliki 
 Ngima, King, 132 
 Nguro, Ntali's envoy, 245, 413, 428 
 Ngussi river, 250, 321 
 Niambara, 50, 2u3, 207 
 Niam-Niam, !<ee Sandeh 
 Nianguira, 433, 434 
 Niangabo, 399, 400, 404 
 Niapu, the, 05 71, 80, 81, 101, 114 
 
 love of, for dogs, 119 
 Niebetembe river, 384, 38tj 
 Niger, the, 153 
 
 Nile river, 5, 6, 9, 25, 51, 50, 59, 207, 
 318 
 
 ba.sins of, 57 
 
 cataracts of, 319 
 
 country bordering, 318, 319 
 
 navigation on, 318 
 
 obstructions on, 26, 90 
 
 rapids of, 319 
 
 stations on, 12 
 
 watershed of, 57, ;i3o 
 Ajaha (termite), 113 
 Nkole, 245 
 
 warriors of, 330 
 No, lake, 318 
 Nola river, 68 
 Nos.so river, 79 
 Nparo, tableland of, 283 
 
 Chua I'etires to, 282 
 Nsabaco, 40o
 
 JNDEX. 
 
 491 
 
 Nsabe, wi'i, .';;;7, o;w. ;;.s.'i 
 
 Ntagata, inincnal \vatc'i> of, lis 
 
 Ntali, Kino-, 244, 41--' 
 
 Ntiabo, nOi) 
 
 Xtikima, King, i;]l, Wl. HI 
 
 Nuba station, 12 
 
 Nubar Pasha, 229, ^37 
 
 Nuer, the, 26, 93, 318 
 
 Nuraangi, chief, 146 
 
 Nnr Aiifi-ara, 23'.i 
 
 Nusranduni. 255 
 
 Nyamsanzi, 322. 33;!, 338, 385 
 
 Nyassa, lake, Livingstone reaches. 
 
 316 
 Nyawa, 60 
 Nymphat In/ IIS. 255 
 Nzaba, 1. •'.•_' 
 
 Oaktbi, Waganda Gkneual, 
 Oakil, 290, 310 
 
 death of, 4Ut; 
 Obak, 6 
 
 Obangi, s-ee Makuii 
 Obd-el-Bassal, height of, 11 
 Obi, see Makua 
 Od-Alima, 10 
 
 Oils, various kinds, (j5, ii8. i;;'.i 
 Okello, chief, 371 
 Okuzza, chief, 326 
 Olopo, 117, 164 
 Omar Effendi. 165 
 Omar (.King Nemr's son), 17 
 Omareg, station, 6 
 
 valley of, 7 
 Om-Derissa, 16 
 Onidurman, 234 
 Opi river, 159 
 Osman Arbab, 206 
 Osman IJey El Arnanli, 15 
 Osman Digna, 235, 237, 23'.i 
 Osman Latif, 380 
 
 dismissal of, 224. 34.3 
 Ostrich feathers, 12. 47, 17.s 
 Ottua river, 64 
 
 Palest iiui, STKAMEK, 3, 5 
 
 Palms, 22 
 
 io;'f/.M«.v, 431, 4.34 
 liquor from, 68 
 oil from, 65, 68, 139 
 Faliiin dart ijli fern, 10 
 RihiKi (ioiii, 10, 255. i;;'.i 
 Paliiia elois, 68, l-">2 
 PahiKi phc.ni.i-, 410 
 Paliiui raphiii, 86 
 wild date, 321 
 
 Pangani, 44 
 
 Panyatoli, 317 
 
 Paoletti, 5 
 
 Papvrus, 22, 26, 39, 61, 75. 91, 92, :il9, 
 321, 322 
 
 islands of, 255 
 Parrots (/'aiftaais erythamsj^ 67, ><;!, 
 
 117, 258 
 Parke, Dr., attends Stanley, 33.3, 4(i4 
 Peters, Dr.. 44 
 Petherick, 173, 195 
 Piaggia, 63, 154 
 Pigmies — see Akka 
 Poko river, 139, 146 
 Polcmi, 131 
 Poncet Bros., 21, 154 
 Port Said, 2 
 Potatoes, sweet, 323, .399 
 
 Batata editlis, 71. 86, 112, 12(J. 
 132, 1.39, 160, 257, .306 
 Protshamma, 250 
 
 QUALI RIVER, 129, 139 
 Oaeniba, musical instruiut'nt. 13.3 
 Querqnedula JJartlanhi, 154 
 
 Eahonia>', 6 
 
 Kahoyan, jieak of, 9. 11 
 
 Itaouf Pasha, 19, 21. 41, 2:1.3 
 
 Karo river, 75 
 
 Kashid 15cy, 2.32 
 
 Ked Sea, 5, 6, 7 
 
 Kego, mountains of, 2(»3 
 
 Kehan, Stanley's servant, 400, 401 
 
 hanging of, 402 
 Kehan Aga, Major, 193, 2i:'., 329, 365 
 
 death of. 330 
 Keichart, Professor, on chimjianzees. 
 
 260 
 lleis Keri, 8 
 Kejaf, 213, 227, 317 
 
 massacre at, 357 
 Kciubi, chief, 81 
 llikctti river, 157 
 Rimo, battle of, 212 
 Itingio, chief, 173 
 Itiouga, chief, 2()7 
 Kipon Falls, 316 
 yi'/cfcs-, obstructions on, 26 
 
 the Nile — 
 
 its afHuents, 5'.t 
 
 its watersheds, 59. 156 
 
 the Welle— Makua. 153-159 
 its afHuents, 158 
 its sources, 158 
 
 the IJomokandi, 1.31 
 
 minor streams, 59 
 lioali river, 411 
 Koconcoua, chief, 30ti 
 lloget, Capt., 156 
 Kohl river, region of, 46. 51, ISS 
 
 valley of, 56, 57
 
 492 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Rokora, chitt, 'iTlt 
 villapje of, 310 
 
 Kosher, 316 
 
 Kuanda, territory of, 111, 41 J 
 
 Rubanga, 292 
 
 Riifula'; 13o 
 
 Kiigaiula, village of, 416, 4'Jn 
 
 Ruitaii, lake, 264, 318 
 
 Ruizi riv(>r, 414 
 
 Rumanika, King, 41S 
 
 Rwmbek, 38. 46, 47, f).'!, •_'()•.' 
 animal.s, 48 
 departure from, ;01 
 
 Ruroi river, 411 
 
 Rustichelli, 4 
 
 Ruwengabi-Coanga forest, 283 
 
 Ruwenzori mountain, 264, 38.H 
 
 Saadam. 44 
 
 Saad, Michael, 23 
 
 Sabri. clerk, 353 
 
 Sacrifices, 116, 148, 149. 271, 371 
 
 new moou, 265 
 
 of the iiipanyo, 252, 2.')3, 2i>5 
 Sagwa, village of, 390 
 Said Aga, 18 
 Said Bargiiash, 247, 280 
 Said Pasha, lo, 16, 184 
 Sakgol-Agassi, 18 
 Sakkah, water seller.'^, 14 
 Saleh, Stanley's servant. ;i'.i6 
 Salinde, 139 
 Sandeh-Bombe, 57 
 
 Sandeh, the, 40, 47, 59, 60. 65. 79. lol, 
 135. 139 
 
 arms of, 141 
 
 as iron workers, 65 
 
 dogs of. 146-148 
 
 dre.ss of, 140, 141 
 
 fables of, 151. 152 
 
 food of, 64, 142 
 
 mode of capturing nionkev.s bv, 
 387 
 
 oracles of, 150 
 Sanra, village, arrival of the ExjDcdi- 
 
 tion at, 409 
 Schahin Pasha, 18 
 Schmidt, i-ii-ut.. 4.''.8 
 Schweinfurfh. Dr., 6, 6-'!. 71, .s6. \Wj, 
 154, 156 
 
 on chimpanzees, 182, 259 
 
 on Sandeh dogs, 146, 147 
 Schynse, Father. 431 
 Scorpions, 26 
 
 Sedgiomocoro, mountain, 255 
 Segada, 2.34 
 Selim jMatera, mO, .355. 369. .384 
 
 letter from. 405 
 
 promotion of, 380 
 Scmliki river, 2t'.4, .318, 407 
 
 Semliki river, waicrjjartiug of, 406 
 
 Sennaar, 5, 12. 16, 20, 233 
 
 Sesame, 181, 182, 209, 224 
 
 Shari river, 153, 154, 155 
 
 Shebderim, tableland of, 6 
 
 Shefalu, the, 249, 261 
 
 Shendy, 12 
 
 Shillook, the, 22, 23, 44 
 
 Shir, the, 208 
 
 Shoa, Bishop of, 5 
 
 Shooli, the, 129, 186, 225, 246, 250, 
 
 2.52, 261, 305, 327, 328 
 Shukri, Capt.. 373, 382, .387, 4(>1 
 Shiiver, Johann, 195 
 Simba, chief, 430 
 
 river, 438 
 Singoma, the guard, 299, 303 
 Sinkat, 6, 23.5. 236 
 
 fall of. 237 
 Sir river, 158 
 Slatin, Governor, 196 
 Slaves, 24, 46, 52, 61, 62, 69 
 
 as agricultural labourers, 39, 46, 
 56 
 
 as soldiers, 43. 44 
 
 Casati on, 189-193 
 
 eunuchs, 56 
 
 exchange of, 14 
 
 liberation of, 52 
 
 markets for, 22, 191 
 
 sale of, 35 
 Slave merchants, 26, 44, 47, 71, 194 
 Slave trade, the, evils of, 191, 233 
 
 enterprise against, 39, 191 
 
 how to abolish, 191 
 Sobat — 
 
 district of, 23, 24, 25, 212 
 
 Gordon builds a station on, 316 
 
 river, 21, 34 
 Solyraan Aga, 346 
 Solyman Dand, 243 
 Solyman Zebehr, 38, 40 
 
 execution of. 39 
 Soudan, the, 5, 12. 15, 16, IS, 20, 41, 
 198 
 
 budget of. 177 
 
 coins of, 368 
 
 revolution in, l.s5 
 
 soldiers of, 43, 44 
 Soudanese, the, 16, 43, 44, 163, 194, 
 
 216, 374 
 Speke, J. H., 316 
 
 discovers Victoria Lake, 315 
 Spermania Afr'icaiHt, 386 
 Squirrel flving, 105 
 Stanley, H. M.,52 
 
 arrives at Kavalli, 337 
 
 arrives in the Were roadstead, 337 
 
 discovers the watershed between 
 Victoria and Ruitan lakes, 318 
 
 illness of, 4(mi
 
 INDEX. 
 
 493 
 
 Stanley, H. M., letter from, 333 
 
 letter of, to Jephson, 37:5-37o 
 
 loses his temper, oiiT 
 
 manifesto from, 383 
 
 news of, 373 
 
 opens the march, 398, 403 
 
 proclamation of, 383 
 
 the "stone-breaker," 390 
 Stairs, Lieutenant, 399, 401, 403 
 
 explores the Virika Peaks, 408 
 Stewart, Colonel. 234, 235 
 
 death of, 239 
 
 shells Berber, 238 
 Stewart, General, 239 
 Stokes, the merchant, 431 
 Stone, General, 319 
 Suakim, 3, 5, tj, 2;>G 
 Sueh river, 59, tJO 
 Suez, 2, 3, 5. 237 
 Suez canal, 2 
 Sundi, 10 
 Sunga, chief, 03, 245, 32tj, 370 
 
 country of, 64 
 Surur, Corporal, 299, 301, 306 
 Suuna, King of Uganda, 266 
 
 bead cultivation, 266 
 
 Tabora, 315, 429 
 
 Tahatt, 395 
 
 Tagle mountains, 16, 17 
 
 Tagliabue, 4 
 
 Tago river, 79, 116 
 
 Taib, clerk, 353 
 
 Taka, province, 16, 18 
 
 Takfara, heights of, 203 
 
 Tamai, 237 
 
 'I'amania, 10 
 
 Tamarinds, 12, 22, 47, 183, 323 
 
 woods of, 223 
 Tanganika, lake, 429 
 
 discovery of, 315, 316 
 
 watershed of, 433 
 Tangasi, 70, 71, 126 
 
 burning of, 80 
 
 Casati's arrival at, 152 
 Tanta, 184 
 Tawil, 60 
 Tchad, lake, 154 
 Tefefan mountain, 23 
 Telabun porridge, 101, 268 
 Tel-el-Kebir, 185 
 
 battle of, 234 
 Teli river, 78, 139, 159 
 Telka Debir, island of, 5 
 Tembe (villages), 429, 431, 432, 433 
 Tendia station, 58, 186 
 
 mountains of, 61, 172 
 Tendiabro, village of. 400 
 Termites, 112, 139, 260 
 Tewfik Pasha, 19, 21 
 
 Tigre, 4 
 
 Tiki-Tiki, see Akka 
 
 Timda rapids, 157 
 
 Tin river, 364 
 
 Tina mountains, (57. i>6, 70, 71 
 
 Tobacco, 35, 56. 59. 60. lis. 160, 168, 
 184. 224, 2.58, 40i;, 412 
 
 Tokar, 2.55, 236 
 
 surrender of. •_'.">7 
 
 Tokongia. 308 
 
 Tomaya. .58, 61, 17-' 
 
 Tombi river, 71 
 
 Tong river, 46. 47 
 
 Tong. village of. 46 
 
 Torre river, 59 
 
 Toru, 264. 410 
 
 Toulba, Colonel, 185 
 
 Tournaments, 102, 103 
 
 Trifolium intermedium. .ISij 
 
 Tripoli, 230 
 
 Troglodytes nie/cr, sec Chimpanzee 
 
 Troglodytes Scliveivfarlliii, see Chim- 
 panzee 
 
 Tromhask, 165 
 
 Tsetse fly, HJO 
 
 Tuckey, 153 
 
 Tukba, Prince, 79 
 death of, 79 
 
 Tumma, eagle, 146 
 
 Tunga mountains. 58 
 
 Tuuguru. 245, 310 
 woods of, 321 
 
 Tura-el-Hadra, 22 
 
 Turkani, 180 
 
 Ubo eivee, 67, 15S 
 Uganda, 183, 244, ■2r>r>, 316 
 
 coffee in, 184 
 
 Mabuzi, envoy to, 121 
 
 Speke reaches, 316 
 Ugogo, 433, 434 
 
 inhabitants of, 435 
 Ugomoro. 418 
 Ukongio. territory of. 409 
 Umiro, the, 178 
 Umma, chief. 327 
 Uncaria tree, 63, 86 
 Unyampaka, 410, 411 
 Unj^amuesi country, 428 
 Unyamwambi river, 410 
 Unyoro, 44, 72, 106. 209. 229, 255 
 
 population of. 268 
 
 superstitions in. 267. 268 
 
 tobacco in, 184 
 Urigi lake, 419 
 Urima, district of. 427 
 Urostif/ma tree, 83 
 Usagara, mountains of, 430, 436 
 
 tenitory of, 425 
 Usimba, territory of. 411
 
 494 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Usongo, 428, 42'J 
 
 I'songora station, 204, Wlo, 407, 4uii, 
 
 410 
 Usukuina, the, 28.3, 3:58, 415, 411) 
 Usumbiro, French .Mission of, 122, 
 
 424 
 
 Vakongio, the, 2C)4, 388 
 
 kill one of Emin's servants, 408 
 Varianga, 427, 428 
 Varicampanga, the, 2(54, oSa 
 Yasingana, chief, 41(3 
 Yavra, the, 2(53, 400 
 Yavu river, 73, 75, 88, 158 
 Yiarna, village of, 417 
 Yietoria, lake, 316, 318, 412 
 
 discovery of, 315 
 Victoria Nile, 269, 273, 278, 279, 287, 
 
 317 
 Viriki, see Kuwenzori 
 Yito, Consul, ;> 
 Vochumbe, village of, 4oi; 
 Vossia, 22, 26 
 Vugorama, village of, 4(),s 
 Vurvira mountain, 321) 
 
 Wadelai ClIiEl', 225 
 Wadelai, station of, 37, 55, 58, 249, 
 289 
 
 arrival at, 352 
 
 arrival of the KlicJice at, 224 
 
 Casati goes to, 225 
 
 projected attack upon, 278 
 
 proposed new road to, 188 
 
 stations burnt, 57 
 
 Watson at, 37 
 Wady Haifa, 13, 16, 17 
 "\Vady of Laemby, 6 
 Wady of Selim, 6 
 Waganda, the, 241 
 
 army of, 283 
 
 attack the Wanyoro, 282 
 
 deputation of, 251, 283 
 
 language of, 261 
 AVagogo, the, 433, 435 
 
 arms of, 433 
 
 habitations of, 433, 434 
 Wahuma, the, 261, 263, 388, 400 
 
 customs of, 263 
 
 shepherds of, 263, 264 
 Wakkali, chief, 91 
 Walegga, the, 68, 263, 404 
 
 as hunters of chimpanzees, 387 
 
 mountains of, 58, 409 
 Wamba, country of, 407, 408 
 
 Wandy, 18(j 
 
 Casati reaches, 198 
 Wandy Makraka, 121 
 Wando, chief, 61,74, 159, 173 
 Wanyarauesi, tlie, 429 
 
 dwellings of, 429 
 Wanyoro, the, 241, 261 
 
 customs of, 270 
 
 dwellings of, 269, 270 
 
 language of, 261 
 
 put to aight by Emin, 279, 280 
 Watson, Capt., 37, 317, 318 
 Wau, 29, 35, 40, 42, 44 
 Waviasi, the, 388 
 Welle-Makua, see Jlakua 
 Were, 322, 389 
 
 arrival of Uonny at, 382 
 Westendarp, W., 178 
 Wilson, Colonel, 239 
 Wilson, C. T., missionary, on lan- 
 guages, 261 
 
 on the" use of bark, 268, 269 
 Wissmann, Major, 438, 440 
 
 letter from, 436 
 Woad Medineh, 13, 15, 16 
 Wolseley, General, starts with an ex- 
 pedition, 238 
 
 Xllopla etliioplca, 155 
 
 Yambuya, 156, 333, 337, 340, 373 
 Yangara, King, 71, 76, 80, 81, 100-103, 
 
 129, 165 
 Yanghiro, district of, 419 
 Yei river, 53, 56, 57, 59, 203, 207 
 Yelalla cataracts, 153 
 Yori, Mambanga's step-brother, 193 
 Yussuf Fall mi, 363 
 Yussuf Pasha, 233 
 
 ZACCALA, CHIEF, 144, 146 
 
 Zambara, chief, 40 
 
 Zambesi river, 156 
 
 Zanzibar, 229, 230, 291, 317, 337, 411 
 
 merchants of, 245, 269, 273 
 Zanzibaris, the, 337, 374, 382, 389, 
 
 397, 401 
 Zebehr Pasha, 38, 177 
 Zebo, chief, 130, 131, 151 
 Zedab, 9 
 Zenze, chief, 171 
 Zucchinetti, Dr., 19 
 Zumbi, Akangoi's residence, 146 
 Zungli mountain, 131
 
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