'?MI
 
 UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA 
 AT LOS ANGELES 
 
 ROBERT 
 
 ERNEST COWAN 

 
 n (UUmor tarn 
 
 JESSE WARREN LILIENTHAL 
 
 BY 
 
 LILLIE BERNHEIMER LILIENTHAL 
 
 SAN FRANCISCO 
 JOHN HENRY NASH 
 
 1921
 
 ' 
 
 t 
 
 In 
 
 THE DEAREST AND SWEETEST MEMORIES 
 
 ARE EVANESCENT, AND TO KEEP ALIVE 
 
 THE BEAUTIFUL LIFE OF THE WONDERFUL FATHER 
 
 I DEDICATE THIS INTIMATE 
 
 RECORD TO MY SON. 
 
 288058
 
 zA List of Chapters 
 
 CHAPTER PAGE 
 
 i. Tout hand Education i 
 
 ii. 'Dresden i 3 
 
 in. *Dresden : A Pilgrimage 5 2 
 
 iv. ^Prague 5 7 
 
 v. Vienna 72 
 
 vi. Munich 117 
 
 vn. "Jesse Warren Lilienthal: The Lawyer 146 
 
 vin. The United Railroads 155 
 
 ix. ^Patriotism and Service During the War 208 
 
 x. Char after and Private Life 214
 
 CHAPTER I 
 Touth and Education 
 
 JESSE WARREN LILIENTHAL, born in Haverstraw- 
 on-the-Hudson, New York, August 2nd, i855,was 
 the son of Max and Pepi Nettre Lilienthal. He was 
 one of eight children three brothers, Theodore, 
 Philip, and Albert; and four sisters,Eliza, Dinah, Esther, 
 and Victoria; Dinah died in infancy. 
 
 His father's prevailing characteristic, notwithstanding 
 the many obstacles he encountered as a young man, was 
 his great optimism, always looking for final success. His 
 mother,an exceptional woman, was more inclined to the 
 serious side of life, of a more doubting nature,somewhat 
 inclined to pessimism. Their married life was compara- 
 tively short, but an exceptionally happy and sympathetic 
 one. Shewasherhusband's inspiration. Shewasneverfor- 
 gotten,and her influence remained after she had gone. 
 
 These two so to speak contrary temperaments ran 
 through the blood of Jesse Lilienthal, a serious, a very se- 
 rious man at times, but again most optimistic. Yet he did 
 not allow his optimism to blind him to the exigencies of 
 the future, and he always looked ahead endeavoring to 
 avoid troubles which might be in store. He had a keen 
 sense of humor, nothing he enjoyed more than a hearty 
 laugh. 
 
 His father, the Rev. Doctor Max Lilienthal, was a Jew- 
 ish Minister. He occupied the pulpit first in New York
 
 and then for many years in Cincinnati, Ohio. It was in 
 the latter place that most of Jesse's childhood was passed. 
 
 From his earliest days he combined in his nature gentle- 
 ness and force, and these traits he carried through life. He 
 had often said that he had a fiery temper, and loved to tell 
 the story that when a boy two of his brothers teasing him 
 into a frenzy, he lifted one of them almost twice his size 
 and tried to put him on the stove. But I never remember 
 seeing him hot-headed or quick-tempered, and so won- 
 derfully did he have his temper under control that what 
 might have proved a vice this force and determina- 
 tionwas so tempered by justice and kindness that his 
 high spirit became a virtue and a trait to be envied. 
 
 As a boy he was full of the joy of living, ready for fun 
 and sport, quite an athlete, but at the same time he was 
 a fine student and proved that by his standing in school. 
 He graduated with honors from the Woodward High 
 School, Cincinnati, in 1 8 70, then entered the Cincinnati 
 LawSchool and at the same time the lawoffices of Long 
 and Kramer. After being there a short time, he felt that 
 he would prefer entering West Point, and he made every 
 effort to that end. His father wrote to President Grant, 
 Judge Bellamy Storer wrote to Hamilton Fish, the then 
 Secretary of State, and both used every effort with Con- 
 gressman Job Stevenson, who represented the District in 
 which he lived. Stevenson had already made his appoint- 
 ment, but promised in case his nominee failed," Lilien- 
 thal's claims were to be considered first of all." The out- 
 come was that he became the alternate, but his hope to
 
 [3] 
 
 enter West Point was never realized. He continued the 
 study of the law and in 1 872, only seventeen years old, 
 he graduated from the Cincinnati Law School. 
 
 His father, knowing the struggle and difficulties of a 
 professional career, although encouraging all his chil- 
 dren to have the very highest education, even to that of 
 a profession, was not anxious to have them follow it. 
 When Jesse wan ted to continue law at Harvard College, 
 his father endeavored to dissuade him, and proposed he 
 should take up banking. Jesse was intensely opposed to 
 that but at last acquiesced, with the proviso that after 
 one year's experience should he still feel inclined to con- 
 tinue his studies, his father should offer no objection. 
 He then went to New York, entered the banking house 
 of J . & W. Seligman,who were friends of his father's,and 
 when the year elapsed, notwithstanding the most flatter- 
 ing offers from the bank, both as to salary and position, 
 nothing could persuade him to renounce the education 
 for which he yearned. He never regretted his experi- 
 ence, however, as it gave him practical insight into big 
 undertakings, which proved very valuable to him as a 
 corporation lawyer. 
 
 He entered Harvard October 3rd, 1 874, of the Class of 
 '76 at that time the law course being only two years. 
 Having entered Harvard against so much opposition, and 
 having great independence of spirit, he determined to be 
 as little of a burden to his father as possible, and prove 
 himself, and make good. A scholarship was offered to 
 him at the end of his first year, and contrary to the wishes
 
 [4] 
 
 of his family,he accepted it,but with the very first money 
 which he made he reimbursed Harvard. This is but one 
 of his many evidences of character. 
 
 Just here it seems to me it maybe interesting to reprint 
 an article which he wrote for a weekly paper as far back 
 as 1880: 
 
 "How SHALL WE MEET SOCIAL PERSECUTION. 
 
 "I have no doubt that everyone of us has occasionally 
 felt the disadvantage of asserting our religion in society. 
 We, all of us, have been made to feel the bitterness of 
 suffering for apparent shortcomings, over which we had 
 no control, and for which we were not responsible. Jew 
 is often used as a term of reproach, and each of us has 
 felt the humiliation of being discriminated against as 
 such. I believe a little experience that I have had in that 
 direction will be both interesting and instructive to my 
 young friends, and I recall it for their benefit. 
 
 " I had the good fortune, some years ago, to attend one 
 of our Eastern universities. I came there a perfect stran- 
 ger, without friends, without influence, without social 
 standing, but full of eagerness for my work, and deter- 
 mined, in spite of all obstacles, to succeed. For the first 
 six weeks of the course I worked as I never have before 
 or since. During fourteen or fifteen hours of every day of 
 the week I never left my books. Probably none equaled 
 me in application, and the result was, as it always will 
 be in such a case, that I soon stood out prominently in 
 the class as specially proficient. Everyone was interested
 
 to know this young man who shone forth so brightly, 
 and I was soon sought out and courted on every hand. 
 No one but was glad to claim me as his friend, and so- 
 cially as well as intellectually I was recognized as the 
 equal of the best of them. 
 
 " One day, one of those to whom I had found it easy to 
 specially attract to myself, innocently asked me to what 
 church I belonged. He wasa blue-blooded Bostonian,and 
 full of that prejudice against the Jew, that the New Eng- 
 lander, with his limited opportunities of knowing us, has 
 forour people. Imagine then this poor fellow's consterna- 
 tion when I told him that I wasajew. He was as if struck 
 by lightning. I might havesaid I had the leprosy or small- 
 pox without startling him half so badly. I saw the impres- 
 sion made upon him,and went away. In twenty -four hours 
 the whole class knew my religion, and I was left to stand 
 absolutely alone. Consider the sadness of my situation 
 yesterday, a general favorite; today, a virtual outcast. 
 
 " Strong as I was in pride and love for my religion, those 
 were trying times for me. My college career that had 
 begun so hopefully looked blasted and withered, and 
 with a heavy heart I sought forgetfulness of this unkind- 
 ness in the performance of my work. For two long weeks 
 I received no recognition from my schoolmates, save 
 occasionally a distant nod, a formal good-morning. But 
 the Jew is proud, and never realizes his strength until it 
 is tried. I passed these greetings by unnoticed, avoided 
 my former companions, buried myself in my books, and 
 sought, harder than ever, to champion the position I had
 
 w 
 
 [6] 
 
 on in the eyes of my professors. I succeeded, but the love 
 for my work was gone. If this was an indication of the 
 world's fairness, what prospers of success had I when the 
 schoolroom was converted into the stage of life, where 
 everyone is selfish and merciless? I think those two weeks 
 were the saddest of my life. 
 
 " One day thereafter, however, my friend who had been 
 looking the image of penitence for some time mustered 
 up sufficient courage to approach me. I was writing at a 
 table in the lecture room awaiting the entrance of a pro- 
 fessor. He stood behind me, resting his arm upon my 
 shoulder. 'Jesse/ said he,' I have been making a fool of 
 myself. I am not responsible for what I did. I had never 
 heard of a Jew that was not a pickpocket or a receiver 
 of stolen goods, and your statement startled me. I hope 
 you will not let that come between us. I never met a man 
 I liked better, and we must remain friends.' 'And yet, 
 Will, it has taken you a long time to come to that con- 
 clusion,' I replied.' Well,' he protested,' I have been wait- 
 ing for you to behave like the Jew I had pictured, and 
 justify my suspicions.' I am proud but not resentful, and 
 there was no mistaking the honesty of his repentance. 
 He has remained my best friend ever since. 
 
 "All my classmates soon followed his example, and 
 never thereafter failed to show my popularity among 
 them. I was liked all the better for my honesty and my 
 self-respect. The world admires a man who has the cour- 
 age of his convictions. The saddest days of my life made 
 way for the happiest.
 
 [7] 
 
 "Can not all of you take courage from this incident? 
 In that very hot-bed of Puritanism a Jew, who had no am- 
 bition but to do his duty, to respect himself, and, there- 
 fore to be a true gentleman, was received by the most aris- 
 tocratic and exclusive people on the continent as their 
 equal. Our aim must be to teach the Gentile that thejew 
 differs from him, if at all, in his religious opinions only; 
 that we are Americans as they are; that we have the same 
 code of morals and the same notions of right and wrong, 
 the same love for the good and the same impatience with 
 the bad; that, above all, we have the same sense of justice 
 and the same sensitiveness for pain or pleasure. And if 
 we appeal to them thus, as gentlemen and fair-minded 
 men, we shall be certain to receive that courtesy and 
 fairness,thc right to which, of every man, the American 
 can never fail to recognize. 
 
 "We may have ourCorbins,our Hiltons,and ourLach- 
 meyers, it is true. And yet how small and petty seems 
 their persecution by the side of the applause and admi- 
 ration that goes to the Disraelis, the Simons, the Pereires, 
 the Meyerbeers, the Hcines, the Laskers,and the innu- 
 merable others, who, in every department of life, have 
 learnt to make themselves immortal ! No, never fear, you 
 may occasionally find those moments of chagrin and dis- 
 appointment^ I did in my good old schooldays, but like 
 me, too, you will find those clouds but few and small. 
 These moments must and do give way to many hours and 
 days and years of gladness and hopefulness." 
 
 And it is true, no years of his life were happier than
 
 [8] 
 
 those spent at Harvard College. The many friendships 
 formed there were lifelong, and he loved his Alma Mater 
 as he did few things in life. 
 
 He was a member of the Pow Wow at Harvard, a club 
 consisting of a few selected law students from the junior 
 and senior classes. The law students called it a "Moot 
 Court." The two classes according to their seniority 
 were the Supreme Court and the Superior Court. The 
 members from his class were Theodore L.Sewall,G. W. 
 VanNest,WilliamThomas,EdwardB.Hill,A.P.Brown, 
 Samuel B. Clarke, Edward D. Bettens, R. Dickey, J. 
 HumphreyHoyt,H.P.Starbuck,A.S.Thayer,S.D.War- 
 ren,Jr.,C.W.Wetmore, L. D. Brandeis, H. L. Harding, 
 W. G. McMillan, and Jesse W. Lilienthal. 
 
 While at college, not only did he study the law most 
 conscientiously but he took advantage of many of the 
 academic courses, which, while a joy to him, proved too 
 much of a tax, and the consequence was disastrous at the 
 end of his college career. 
 
 In 1 876, the new HarvardTheatrum was to be finished 
 and dedicated with a great celebration. The Commence- 
 ments of the Law School and Academic Department 
 were to be combined. This union was an innovation, and 
 for the first time there was to be a law orator. By order 
 of the faculty six students from the graduating class were 
 to be chosen in secret ballot by the student body as best 
 fitted to represent the school. Jesse Lilienthal was chosen 
 one of the six. At the end of the year the papers were 
 to be read separately before the full faculty of the Law
 
 [9] 
 
 School, then consisting of seven law professors, together 
 with President Eliot who was ex ofKcio a member of the 
 
 **/ 
 
 faculty; and Jesse Lilienthal had the good fortune to be 
 chosen orator of his class, his chum, roommate, and 
 great friend, Samuel Clarke, ranking second.This choice 
 was looked upon by the students as a great honor, as 
 many of the Alumni, State dignitaries and other nota- 
 bles were to be present at the Commencement. At the 
 end of the term, from two strenuous work, Jesse Lilien- 
 thal broke down and was unable to achieve what to him 
 was the greatest honorand opportunity of his life. Samuel 
 Clarke became the orator in his place. 
 
 He left college crushed in spirit and without his degree 
 of LL.B., which naturally added to his unhappiness. His 
 health was completely undermined, and he suffered in- 
 tensely from severe headaches. After try ing every remedy 
 that medicine could offer, in desperation he traveled, first 
 in America,then in the West Indies,finally going abroad. 
 The journal which he wrote gives a picture of deter- 
 mined effort to regain his health, fighting against many 
 discouragements, even to the extent of feeling that life 
 was of no more use to him. Had it not been for his great 
 family affection and the sorrow it would cause them, one 
 hates to think of what might have happened. On March 
 i 5th, 1 877, Jacksonville, Florida, he writes: 
 
 "It has occurred to me that the question of a journal in 
 which to note down the names of acquaintances made, 
 strange places seen,and the salient occupation of the day, 
 might be useful for future references, and interesting as
 
 [10] 
 
 well, to recall pleasant reminiscences, and as a light oc- 
 cupation for the time being, not too great a strain upon 
 this poor head of mine, and yet a shield to ward off 
 gloomy thoughts. 
 
 "My position is a peculiar one, obliged way back in 
 March, 1876, in the midst of my hard studying, which 
 had resulted in so many triumphs for me, consisting in 
 the public recognition they received alike from profes- 
 sor, students, and friends, but dearest of all in the self- 
 consciousness that I was performing my whole duty and 
 reaping the great benefits that presence at so great a uni- 
 versity as Harvard is, afforded, and about to be crowned 
 with tangible evidences of my success I left my books 
 and instructors, my classmates and friends, broken down 
 in health, and crushed in spirit at the thought of the 
 work left undone, and like a Lot dreading to look back 
 upon Sodom, turned my steps toward the wide world, 
 seeking the strength I had sacrificed, the consolation 
 which I felt would never come. 
 
 "I pass over my wandering for the last year, from sea 
 to mountain and from forest to lake. The glorious Atlan- 
 tic, the beautiful mountains of Vermont and New York 
 and the happy quiet lakes that they embosom, the lofty 
 pines of Michigan and the terrible waters of Niagara, 
 found no response but agony in a breast that might have 
 loved them so dearly. Long Branch, Middlebury, his- 
 toric oldTiconderoga, Lake George, and Lake Cham- 
 plain, New York, and Michigan, all saw me in turn, and 
 sent me again on the weary pilgrimage that will not end.
 
 In desperation, I came home. Could not science accom- 
 plish what nature left undone? For five long months I 
 subjected myself to the most heroic treatment. Every 
 care that the loving kindness and forethought of my dear 
 ones could have for me, every effort that physicians most 
 eminent in their profession and with special feelings of 
 anxiety for my recovery, could make, left me only worse 
 than before. Their remedies exhausted, and my patience 
 nearly so, weak in body and heavy in spirit, the early days 
 of 1 87yagain saw me bidding adieu to every familiar face 
 and object. Now at Savannah, then in the Bahamas, Key 
 West today and Cedar Keys tomorrow, tossing on the 
 tempestuous waters that alone seemed to understand how 
 deep the shadow on my soul, and how few the sands of 
 hope, or whirling over hill and vale in that most awful 
 of man's creation, the locomotive train. 
 
 "I leave to another day the description of the curious 
 and the beautiful that Nature everywhere and at all times 
 shows to him who will but seek her. God alone knows 
 all those terrible struggles with my own inclinations that 
 so many of those days witnessed. Is it never justifiable for 
 us to anticipate that certain fate by our own act? Can it 
 be the will of a good and merciful God (and I will have 
 no other) that we should suffer and bleed no matter how 
 slight the prospect of a brighter day to come? I will not 
 believe it. Then the prospect of that brighter time would 
 grow dimmer and dimmer, and I would sit down with a 
 light heart to think of the end of my troubles. What has 
 bound me to this world? The love of my friends? There
 
 [12] 
 
 are those, and if they be but one or two, who do love 
 me honestly and deeply, and whom I dare not grieve by 
 my own destruction. I may not realize my fond dreams ; 
 I may never find success in those paths of life in which 
 alone I care to seek it; my ambitious energy may falter 
 and wilt in repeated failure, but I have not the heart to 
 grieve those people. Oh, I can love as no other! I do so 
 yearn for it in return ; and when I get it, no sacrifice is 
 great enough to satisfy the gratitude that goes out to these 
 blessed hearts."
 
 ['3] 
 
 CHAPTER II 
 ^Dresden 
 
 GEMALDE GALLERIE. 
 
 Im E TRAVELED in the most modest fashion, but 
 never missed an opportunity to see things 
 worth while,and notwithstanding his physi- 
 * cal disabilities, he made a study of art, visit- 
 ing the world's great museums of painting, sculpture, 
 and architecture. In order to get an idea of the methods 
 he pursued, I quote from his journal while in Dresden, 
 Prague,Vienne, and Munich. He visited all the art cen- 
 ters of Italy, and also the big museums in Paris and Lon- 
 don, but unfortunately, either he kept no journal or it has 
 been lost. 
 
 " May 3/77. This morning we are having snow, which 
 soon changes into rain, and in spite of all, I am deter- 
 mined to make my first visit to the Gemdlde Gallerie 
 (Pidture Gallery), which more than aught else makes 
 Dresden attractive to me. So under the protection of my 
 Key West umbrella, I launch forth a little before the 
 opening hour, intending to devote that time to an ex- 
 amination of the outside of the Zivinger. The Zwinger 
 was inspired by August I I,who like most European Mon- 
 archs of his day, was content to take Louis XlVas his 
 model and ape his magnificence and luxurious pomp. In 
 order, therefore, to do in a small way what that Monarch 
 had done at Paris, Fontainebleau, and Versailles, August
 
 ['4] 
 
 II planned the famous Zwinger-bau, which even in its 
 present splendor is but a small part of what that Monarch 
 designed, and which like the work of the French King, 
 was an effort to approximate the almost fabulous mag- 
 nificence of the Roman Baths. The Zwinger is a large 
 polygon, with a great courtyard bounded by the different 
 buildings which compose it, each of the main sides con- 
 taining finest carved portals, and crowned with green- 
 roofed towers in the Rococo Style. In facl,the superficial 
 splendor of that age runs all through the building, al- 
 though I believe, strictly speaking, it is built in Barock 
 Style, and the best specimen of that style we have. The 
 sides are one-storied pavilions, whose roofs form terraces 
 from which, over the gardens and squares that surround 
 it, beautiful views of the Elbe, Neustadt, and the great 
 courtyard are had. The court itself, a parallelogram, is 
 350 feet long and 320 feet wide, and in the center of it, 
 a magnificent statue of the 2nd Friedrich August, sur- 
 named* The Just,' whose fifty-three years rule endeared 
 him perhaps more than any of the Saxon rulers before or 
 since to his subjects. He is surrounded by four figures, 
 Piety, Justice, Wisdom, and Moderation, and altogether 
 presents one of the finest pictures of the kind I have seen 
 anywhere, and is a credit even to the great Rietschel 
 who modeled it. The Zwinger as it stands now, minus 
 the museum, was built from 171 1-22 byPoppelmann, 
 and contains the Zoological, Historical, Natural-Histor- 
 ical, Mathematical, and Geological Museums, together 
 with the collections of gypsum casts. Every where,inside
 
 and outside, statuary, carvings, bas-reliefs, and fountains, 
 and explaining why that with the porcelain manufacture 
 (whose classical style is the Rococo), have given Dresden 
 the name of Heimat des Rococos (Home of the Rococo). 
 Where now the Zwtnger stands, and which is the whole 
 side of the Z winger facing the Elbe, it was the intention 
 of the architect to build a huge portal,which was to lead 
 to a plateau with two long-drawn-out palaces, connected 
 with galleries, and whose steps were to lead down into 
 the Elbe, affording the Saxon nobility, I suppose, the 
 chance to bathe their limbs in the near presence of roy- 
 alty and its attendants. Instead of that, I suppose we may 
 well say fortunately, we have the beautiful museum in 
 the best Renaissance Style, built of granite and marble 
 and considered one of the finest specimens of modern 
 architecture, and like its invaluable contents, calling 
 forth the comment that here at last is something that 
 you cannot find in your own country. It was finished in 
 1854, after the plans of Semper, the most influential 
 architect of the present day, who with such men as Riet- 
 schel, Schilling, and Hahnel helped to give Dresden in 
 this century something of the artistic activity and im- 
 portance that it possessed in the last. 
 
 "The museum is a long building with a passageway 
 in the center, leading right to the monument, and to 
 the right and left of the passageway's center into the 
 Gemdlde Gallerie that in its two stories compose its treas- 
 ures. It is ornamented by sculptures indicating the pur- 
 port of the building by incidents from modern and an-
 
 cient history, from Saga and Religion. To its left, while 
 waiting for the opening hour, 10 A.M., I noticed a fine 
 statue of Carl Maria von Weber, who, I believe, at one 
 time was Capell Meister (Dire&or) here. This, with the 
 museum facing theatre, Dom, and Schloss, and in fact, al- 
 most everything worth seeing in Dresden, clusters about 
 this square. 
 
 "At last the hour of opening arrived, and with just a 
 little fluttering of the heart, I confess, I entered this beau- 
 tiful palace, containing one of the finest art galleries in 
 the world, and as far from anything that I had seen be- 
 fore as we from the sun. I could hardly make up my mind 
 to pass the vestibules, with their finely sculptured alle- 
 gorical incidents, but I reminded myself that I was not 
 going to spend a lifetime in Dresden, and I could not 
 give anytime to incidentals. Already in the hall leading 
 into the main salons, I found some old Flemish pictures 
 numbered 2400 ! Just think of it ! Twenty-four hundred 
 pictures in one collection, all of them of importance, 
 and many, very many of them of inestimable value. I 
 confess I commenced to feel oppressed at the thought of 
 the vastness of the attraction offered me, and felt almost 
 inclined to turn back for fear of not doing justice to it. 
 As I write, such a feeling seems ridiculous enough, but it 
 was none the less real at the time. The building (that is, 
 the first floor on which the main part of the paintings 
 are) is divided into thirteen large salons opening one into 
 the other, and twenty-one smaller side compartments 
 for the grouping of smaller pictures, all of course im-
 
 . 
 
 mediately under skylights, all gilded and sculptured and 
 helping the masterpieces on the wall to look their best; 
 and indeed a general view of the halls, a coup d'ai/of the 
 salons, without a special examination of any of the pic- 
 tures, is a sight alone to be remembered for a lifetime. 
 These salons are generally arranged according to schools 
 which I shall indicate as I pass through them. 
 
 "The first idea that occurs to one in glancing over 
 the catalogue, is one of wonder at how it was possible 
 for any one collection to contain so many gems, and, 
 even though a royal treasury is at the bottom, where all 
 the money could come from to buy it. But it must be 
 remembered that all the gems of the gallery, in fact, 
 almost every good thing in it, was gathered in the last 
 century when a 1 00,000 thaler meant a good deal more 
 than it does now, and when the then reigning monarchs 
 in their laudable enthusiasm for this collection (notably 
 August II and 1 1 1, the latter a gem of a prince) seemed 
 willing to deprive themselves of every thing else, in order 
 to make this gallery the first in the world, and they had 
 their agents secretly at work in all the large cities to 
 gobble up any treasure that some hard-pressed prince 
 or merchant was compelled to part with. Its beginning 
 dates back to the sixteenth century,when a kunst hammer 
 containing specimens of Durer and Cranach is written 
 of, but its real importance dates from the so-called Mo- 
 dena purchase made in 1745 at which time one hun- 
 dred pictures, the gallery of the Duke of Modena, were 
 secretly conveyed to Dresden for the consideration of
 
 1 00,000 sequin, a mere trifle as compared with the pres- 
 ent value (if they can be valued at all) of the pictures. 
 In the last years a Murillo brought in Paris nearly 600,- 
 ooofrancsl It is appalling to think what millions such 
 such a gallery represents. This was assisted in 1748 by 
 a purchase of sixty-nine pictures for 50,000 f/ia/erfrom 
 the Imperial Gallery of Prague, and indeed it may be 
 said that with the exception of a few important acqui- 
 sitions occasionally made since, the gallery had its pres- 
 ent importance at the close of the reign of August III. 
 "Well, I find myself in Room H,with representatives 
 of the Neapolitan, Genoese, and Spanish Schools, and I 
 have convinced myself inside of a half-hour that while 
 one is far from delighted with everything, it would be 
 easy for one as anxious as I am to learn something fun- 
 damental about art to examine pictures carefully as to 
 conception, execution, color, perspective, character, and 
 a hundred other things that have suggested themselves 
 to me in the course of my wanderings through the mu- 
 seum, to spend a year in the study of it, if one's strength 
 and health would permit of the great strain upon them 
 that my first day's examination imposed. It is not satis- 
 factory, but wise, I conclude, for one to have the opin- 
 ion of experts as to what are the greater attractions, and 
 dwell for any considerable length of time on them, giv- 
 ing the others a hurried view only, and this is so, be- 
 cause often after the most searching investigation that 
 I was capable of giving to a picture, and lasting perhaps 
 fifteen minutes, I would convince myself that it had no
 
 f [ '9 ] 
 
 very great merit. In a gallery of 2400 pictures this is 
 not profitable. In this salon the Italian Luca Giordano 
 and the Spaniard Ribera were represented, both afford- 
 ing much that was good; even the former who to eclipse 
 his rivals would paint great historical events in twenty- 
 four hours, as, for instance, the Death of Seneca that he 
 has here. In his choice of subjects, particularly, he is 
 more happy than many of the best painters of 1550- 
 
 1 650, and it is quite a relief to find events from Grecian 
 Mythology and even the Old Testament, as a set-oft to 
 Adorations,Crucifixions,and horrible Martyrdoms. Ri- 
 bera strikes me as an artist of a higher rank, and his 
 St. Mary of Egypt, kneeling in prayer, is really delight- 
 ful, and her face would prove an excellent substitute in 
 my opinion for many of the Madonna faces, even those 
 of highest repute, which too often in attempting to 
 portray spirituality and purity, only succeed in giving 
 us blankness and stupidity. Salvator Rosa is represented 
 here by a shipwreck, but I must confess that I felt 
 disappointed in not being able to become enthusiastic. 
 Zurbaran has a picture here, not equal to what I have 
 seen of him in Montpensier's collection, and Murillo a 
 Madonna and Child, which I did not like, but a splen- 
 did Martyrdom of Rodriquez, in which the Saint stands 
 there with throat already cut and the famous Episcopal 
 garments the Murillo vesture (now in Seville) and 
 truly he has immortalized the elegant gown by this fine 
 picture of it. 
 
 . "In Room I, into which I passed now, the Spanish
 
 [20] 
 
 SchooliscontinuedbyVelasquez,andtheFlemish School 
 begun by selections from Rubens, Van Dyck, and Jor- 
 daens, and in the expectation raised by these names I 
 was not disappointed. The Dutch and Flemish School 
 is remarkably strong in this collection, and the i ooo 
 pictures which represent it, include some of its very best, 
 and exhaust many rare but excellent masters. Portraits 
 by Velasquez and Van Dyck ! I can imagine nothing 
 more interesting, and I do not believe any of the mas- 
 ters, not even Rembrandt and Titian, splendid as I have 
 found them both in that regard here, can equal them. 
 One feels certain that these people must have lived and 
 that in the slightest particular the pictures are accurate. 
 I looked at these severe old Castilian Counts and Cap- 
 tains of Velasquez, until I had almost convinced myself 
 that I had seen and known these very men. Unfortu- 
 nately, they have but three portraits by him, but then 
 they have an abundance of Van Dyck, and here at least 
 I could feast my weakness for fine portraits. They have 
 nineteen pictures in all from him, and of these I liked 
 none so well as his portraits, particularly those of the 
 three children of Charles I, the painter Martin Ryc- 
 kaert, and the Baron von Wemmel (the Knight Engel- 
 bert Taie). 
 
 "Then comes Papa Rubens, and the delights that his 
 many masterpieces that this gallery has secured and af- 
 fords one are as intoxicating as the good old Holland 
 gin to which certainly he was not strange. They have 
 thirty-five originals by him, some of which when com-
 
 [21] 
 
 pared with most of the others seem to come from a dif- 
 ferent hand, but the majority of them have a clearness 
 and a strength and many of them a humor and beauty 
 that make his school one by itself. Of the more famous 
 pictures, the Judgment of Paris is here,which I have not 
 yet learned to like, a splendid wild boar hunt, a Diana 
 returning from a chase, looking too subdued and beau- 
 tiful almost, to come from this constant painter of Bac- 
 chuses and Sileneses, and what in my eyes is the most 
 admirable of all, the portrait of his own two sons, which 
 is really bewitching. The devilish roguery in the spark- 
 ling eye of the older (who, I will warrant you, took 
 mainly after the father) and the subdued thoughtful air 
 on the sweet face of the younger, must be seen in order 
 to appreciate the magnetic effect it produces. I could 
 not leave its side. 
 
 "Jordaens ( Jaques), a pupil of Rubens, is also well rep- 
 resented here. His best work is the Diogenes in the 
 Market, in which one face is more interesting than the 
 other, and that of Diogenes, who seems to retort,with a 
 sort of half sneer and half gratification to find his theo- 
 ries confirmed, to the mirth-provoked crowd that jeers 
 at the old man as he passes through it, a perfect study. 
 His Prodigal Son is also powerfully executed, although 
 it is noticeable how these painters, even to their Christs 
 and Madonnas, will take their models from their own 
 people,and all their faces will be Dutch, Italian, Spanish, 
 or German, according to the nationality of the painter. 
 The fewest of them can escape this criticism.
 
 [22] 
 
 " I had no w only D utch and Flemish pi&ures to occupy 
 me in addition to the former. Rembrandt commenced 
 to show himself, and here too, I found the gallery ex- 
 tremely rich: twenty originals, among those the univer- 
 sally known portrait of himself with his beautiful first 
 wife, Sachia van Nylenburgh, on his lap (who, by the 
 way, frequently serves him as model) and a great many 
 strong portraits. The Entombment of Christ, one of his 
 more noted ones, is here, but I must examine it again 
 before I can make up my mind about it. As yet I have 
 not learned to like it. 
 
 "Here I found Snyders, De Long, Hals, Harthorst,and 
 Victors, many of them giving us fine paintings, but not of 
 that surpassing excellence which will justify my dwell- 
 ing upon them by the side of more prominent masters. 
 
 "As I pushed on, I found in addition to masters men- 
 tioned before, specimens from Mierevelt von der Hoist, 
 C. von Everdingen, A. Cuyp, Pottenburg, mostly por- 
 traits and collections of fruit, flowers, and dead game, 
 still-life pictures, and an excellent picture by Von der 
 Meer: two groups consisting of an old man and woman 
 on a balcony enjoying the mischief going on in the sec- 
 ond group, in which a cavalier is kissing a buxom lass 
 leaning over a table covered with a finely painted Persian 
 carpet, and pressing a gold piece into her hand, which 
 she does not seem at all reluctant to accept. The pic- 
 ture is full of animation. Everdingen's Flora, Pomona, 
 Bacchus, and Amor is here too, but I am not particu- 
 larly well pleased with it. It seems that the Dutch School
 
 commenced to seek other objects for their brushes to im- 
 mortalize, than spiritual scenes, and this is one of their 
 most attractive features. Their portraits are unsurpassed, 
 and their landscapes commence in certain artists, to 
 whom I have still to come, to assume quite formidable 
 proportions. 
 
 "Some fruits and flowers by De Reem,who seems to 
 be the painter par excellence of this class of picture, and 
 then I am in the presence of some of the rarities even 
 of this rare gallery. First and foremost, the picture that 
 with the SLxtine Madonna of Raphael's, towers above 
 everything else in the collection, the Madonna of Hol- 
 bein. This picture was painted by Holbein for Jacob 
 Meyer, the Burgomaster of Basle, whose family it rep- 
 resents under the protection of the Virgin, Meyer and 
 his two sons on one side, his wife with her mother and 
 daughter on the other, all of which figures in my eyes 
 make up the value of the picture, although the Virgin 
 is much nearer my notion of the Catholic Queen than 
 most of the creations of that century bring her. The 
 Child God is to me somewhat incomprehensible. If the 
 idea intended to be conveyed by the expression on his 
 face is that of pain at the thought of the great respon- 
 sibility he is assuming in undertaking the redemption 
 of the human race, I do not quite find that the artist 
 has given us a perfect representation. I can at least give 
 him credit for an idea which to me seems as natural in 
 God, even though he be babe, as it is unusual among 
 the Child Christs of all the artists I have seen. If that be
 
 not the idea, I can only say that he has given the Child 
 the face of one sick, thereby withdrawing from the gen- 
 eral grandness which pervades the picture. The other 
 figures are masterpieces. It is somewhat unpleasant to 
 think that some artists contend that this picture is only 
 a copy of the original in Darnstadt, and though Dr. 
 Hubner, the director of the gallery, stoutly protests and 
 argues against such a theory, contending that at most it 
 is a later production of the artist, and of greater ideality, 
 I am quite willing to enjoy the thing for its intrinsic 
 beauty, whether copy or original. Next to it, however, is 
 a portrait of Henry VII I's Goldsmith, which in its mas- 
 terly excellence may be enjoyed by all in the perfect con- 
 sciousness that they are seeing the work of Holbein's 
 own hands, and by which one learns readily to believe 
 that Holbein was the first portrait painter of his age. 
 Like all portraits, it can stand very little description, but 
 every hair of the man's head, every vein on his flesh, testi- 
 fies to its excellence. There are other specimens of the 
 same master,but none that approach these two, and I pass 
 them by. 
 
 " Albrecht Durer has four or five works here, of which 
 the one considered his best is the Crucifixion, a small 
 eight by ten inch picture with Christ alone on the Cross. 
 More upon a more careful examination. 
 
 "Here, too, is to be found the Virgin of Van Eyck 
 (founder of the school and inventor of oil painting), con- 
 sidered the gem of the Flemish School, and while I am 
 far from admitting that, there is no withholding one's
 
 admiration from the work of an artist who way back in 
 the 1 4th century with so little light thrown upon his 
 work by discoveries of contemporaries, could yet make 
 so spiritual a creation. 
 
 " I came now to the small rooms containing the smaller 
 pictures, instead of entering the more pretentious part 
 of the collection. It was late and I thought I would leave 
 that until I felt brighter. Here I found specimens of older 
 andyoungerCranach,Grossaert,Memling,andothernot 
 prominent Dutchmen, and having examined a single of 
 the twenty-one rooms, determined to spend the last half 
 hour before the closing one (4 p. M.) with the Queen of 
 the Gallery, the great SixtineMadonna,which in a salon 
 by itself, magnificently mounted, almost equals in worth 
 in my eyes the whole gallery put together. I was quite 
 familiar with the picture, having had an excellent en- 
 graving of it over my desk in mystudyinCambridge,and 
 more than once of a night when tired of my work, laid 
 books aside and devoured this picture, and it was not nec- 
 essary, therefore, as no doubt it would have been other- 
 wise, for me now to allow the picture to grow upon me. I 
 had long since learned to delight in the wonderful purity 
 and spirituality of Mary, the sad wisdom of the Child's 
 deep eyes, the ecstasy of the Holy Sixtus, who is almost 
 overcome with the brilliancy of the apparition, and the 
 subdued but for all that intense piety and holiness of the 
 beautiful Santa Barbara. We all know the delightful in- 
 nocence of the two cherubs who gaze up into the clouds 
 which are carrying the Virgin heavenward, as if though
 
 [26] 
 
 accustomed to the magnificence of Paradise, they had 
 never yet seen anything quite so beautiful as this ascen- 
 sion. Such a picture as this more than all bishops and 
 priests in the world points out to us the beauties of the 
 Catholic Faith, and tells me that if it were possible for 
 me to be a Catholic at all, I could be an enthusiastic one, 
 and I can now understand why Raphael was so adored 
 by his contemporary Pope. This worship of saints is at 
 least as much an improvement on the beautiful romantic 
 Grecian Mythology as a virtuous and pure strong man 
 is an improvement on an unscrupulous strong man. I 
 wonder whether I shall ever have satisfied myself with 
 looking at this picture! 
 
 "I returned home feeling that I had done a good day's 
 work, and having made arrangements with my landlady 
 to supply me a cup of tea in the evening as modestly as 
 she does the coffee in the morning, I gulped down a pot 
 of that and was good for very little that evening. Spas- 
 modic attempts to read, then write, then read again, de- 
 veloped into nothing more serious, and I find that I am 
 gradually growing so nervous that I am unfit not only 
 to work, but to remain idle as well, and I go about a mis- 
 erable wreck, unfit to live. 
 
 " May4/77. A poor night's rest brings me to my break- 
 fast and that to my day's plans, which I soon develop into 
 a second visit to the museum, as I concluded that this 
 was about the only thing in Dresden to which I felt 
 strongly drawn. At 9: 3 o I am on the way, this time mak- 
 ing a new cut, which will enable me to see the famous
 
 Bruhr sche terrace just this side of the Dom. I stop to ex- 
 amine a curious collection of figures which I find against 
 the wall on the Moritz Place, near the botanical gardens. 
 This, it appears, is a memorial to the Elector Maurice, 
 who having delivered (all here in figures) the state scep- 
 ter to his brother August, his successor, went out and 
 defeated the enemy at Sievershausen, but fell himself, 
 though victor. Just opposite the Elbe, and at the foot of 
 the terrace, is the Synagogue, a fine Roman structure 
 built after the plans of Semper. In the midst of neatly 
 planned garden plots and shade trees, one ascends the 
 stone steps that lead to the terrace and follows the Elbe 
 for about one-eighth mile that lies between the Syn- 
 agogue and Z)o///(far enough, I hope, to advoid quarrel- 
 ing). It is a fine broad stone walk, illuminated at night by 
 the lamps and crystal jets of the Belvedere. Down forty- 
 one steps of stone we are led to the square on which 
 palace and Dom face; on the balustrades four marble fig- 
 ures by Schilling, personifying Night, Morning, Noon, 
 and Evening. 
 
 "Once again I entered the museum, made at once for 
 that part of the Italian collection which illustrates the 
 Bolognese School, and cautioned by the little progress 
 made the day before, tried to do the thing more expedi- 
 tiously. Here I found Barbieri, commonly called Guer- 
 cino,well represented, and although his subjects are well 
 chosen, and his works pretentious, I do not think that he 
 succeeds in what he undertakes; another instance of tal- 
 ent not keeping pace with ambition. He seems to have
 
 [28] 
 
 had many noble patrons, and probably worked too fast to 
 amass their sequins. 
 
 "The two Caraccis are well represented in the gallery 
 and gives us occasionally things that we do not look for in 
 those so little known to the amateur, particularly the St. 
 Rochus Dispensing Alms by AnnibaleCaracci,which has 
 some really striking figures bowed down by plague but 
 finding strength and comfort in the charity of the saint. 
 
 "ThenGuidoReni,whoofcourseisuniversallyknown, 
 but for whose wonderful productions contained in this 
 gallery I was hardly prepared. Perhaps the most cele- 
 brated is his Semiramide and Venus, no doubt a very fine 
 painting, but in my opinion hardly to be compared with 
 the wonderful beauty of his equally well-known Ecce 
 Homo (head of Christ with the crown of thorns) and the 
 less generally known Christ appearing to Mary after his 
 resurrection, full of pathos and subdued passion. 
 
 "From here I passed into the Venetian School, and 
 among Paul Veronese,Titian,Giorgione,andTintoretto 
 surely was opportunity for a very Bacchanalian revel. In 
 the former, in particular, I consider the gallery particu- 
 larly strong (and after Raphael, Angelo is quite strange 
 to me in the painting). I like none so well as him, not 
 even Correggio. The splendid coloring of his pictures, 
 the brilliant grouping of his characters, their clear cut 
 outlines and the real beauty of his Madonnas, distinguish 
 them from all others, and after I had seen one, I found 
 that I could recognize them all, though except in these 
 general characteristics I found them in no respect mo-
 
 notonous. The Finding of Moses, the Blessing of the 
 Cocina Family, the Adoration of the Magi, the Presen- 
 tation of the Infant Jesus in theTemple, the Carrying of 
 the Cross, are all masterpieces,and indeed I might men- 
 tion almost everyone of his pictures in the same cate- 
 gory without doing violence to what I have of artistic 
 judgment. Titian, too, though generally in a less degree, 
 proved himself the master that my art reading led me 
 to expert of him. His world-renowned Tribute Money, 
 a small but intensely powerful picture, and what affords 
 the most pleasure, his Virgin, Child, and Joseph receiv- 
 ing the Adoration of Alphonso I of Ferrara,and Lucrezia 
 Borgia, the latter two in particular having all the excel- 
 lence that the quite numerous collection of his portraits 
 to be found here all possess the same vivid coloring 
 that seems to be a feature of the Venetian School, and 
 then the great clearness and distinctness to be found in 
 the slightest detail even of dress. I might look for an 
 hour at a time, it seemed to me, at a lace collar that you 
 would find on the neck of a Venetian lady. 
 
 "Barbarelli's (Giorgione) Jacob Saluting Rachel is 
 here among others, and a number by Robusti (Tinto- 
 retto), but while both of these have strong and individ- 
 ual features, I could not find a single painting of either 
 that quite satisfied me. 
 
 "FERRARESE AND LOMBARD SCHOOLS. 
 
 "At the head of these,! suppose without doubt Allegri 
 (Correggio) will be placed, and certainly so far as repute
 
 [30] 
 
 goes one has ample opportunity to determine the justice 
 or injustice of it in Dresden. His most famous picture 
 La Notte,that is, the Adoration of the Child at Night, 
 is here, and besides the universally copied Reclining 
 Magdalen reading (which I have not yet seen ) ; then the 
 Virgin and Child with Sebastian and Rochus, the same 
 with George, Peter,and John, and the same with Francis 
 Anthony, John, and Catherine, I confess that I am dis- 
 appointed; while expecting everything, I found much 
 to be sure, particularly in the first of the last named three, 
 and a very great deal in all, and perhaps would have found 
 most of them admirable if found under a less pleasant 
 name. But I confess I found none of the Virgins, except 
 the Rochus', to my taste,all the Christs poor and the real 
 strength of the pictures in the Saints (especially Cath- 
 erine, who among all painters is handsomer than the 
 Virgin) and the general bold and lively tone, particu- 
 larly in La Notte. If only the Virgin could have been 
 given a different face, I believe I should have been in 
 raptures, for really the general reflection on faces of the 
 shepherds and objects about of the halo from Christ's 
 face is extremely beautiful, and so with occasional ex- 
 ceptions I might say as much for all his pictures here, 
 but in these exceptions I have found my disappointment. 
 "I was as agreeably surprised with Dosso Dossi (who 
 had been hardly known to me) as I was disagreeably 
 with Correggio, and found grace and beauty in a new 
 quarter. These discoveries are all the more pleasant be- 
 cause they make us conscious that after all, though trav-
 
 [3'] 
 
 eling costs much time and money, it helps us materially 
 to fill the many gaps in our education. The same applies 
 with somewhat diminished force to Tisio, better known 
 among artists as Garofalo, as indeed most of the mas- 
 ters in art studies generally lose their family names and 
 acquire that of the place which is the scene of their birth 
 or efforts in art. Of course we are better prepared for 
 the excellence of Andrea del Sarto,and in his Abraham's 
 Sacrifice and Christ's Betrothal, inter alios, we find a real 
 relief from numerous less prominent painters in whose 
 company he finds himself. Fortunately, there is much 
 less of this sort of thing than one would expecl: to find 
 in so large a gallery, and what there is excusable and 
 even desirable, as offering one the opportunity to study 
 the development of painting through its various stages of 
 progress, and further offering as my own experience has 
 shown me, a good opportunity to extract the real merits 
 from a Reni orGiorgione by contrasting his works with 
 those of less famous contemporaries. I found a remark- 
 ably strong painting from an artist hitherto unknown 
 to me, Buonvicino,viz.,Maryas she appeared in Italy 
 ( 1 5 20) at the time of the pest, expressing with a wonder- 
 ful accuracy that love and sympathy for the human race 
 that one must exped: from the Catholic's Mary. 
 
 "Apidturewhich Hubner values as one of the finest 
 of the collection is the Altar Piece of Ramenghi (Bagna- 
 cavallo), Virgin and Child on clouds, and below, four 
 Saints I have hardly learned as yet to rank it as high as 
 he does, though finding much beauty in it (as amateur
 
 [32] 
 
 I cannot speak of merit, but must confine myself to the 
 sensuous effects). 
 
 "It will not do to dwell upon the works of every mas- 
 ter here, and I find I must content myself with only a 
 passing word even for the most prominent ones, and 
 therefore, pass on to the 
 
 "FLORENTINE SCHOOL. 
 
 "Here, of course, we look for Leonardo da Vinci, of 
 whom unfortunately the gallery possesses but a single 
 work, and that a very early one, remarkable for nothing 
 but delicacy in execution. Something of the excellence 
 of the master appears in a copy they have here of his 
 Herodias with the head of St. John, even in the dupli- 
 cate looking worthy of so great a hand as his own. A 
 single Lorenzo di Credi, and no Michael Angelo, but 
 a fine copy of the latter's Leda and the Swan, giving us, 
 I think, the handsomest, most captivating, female in the 
 whole collection, and making one feel all the more how 
 great a gap right here the museum has. Among others 
 we have two magnificent Carlo Dolci's here: St. Cecilia 
 at the Organ and Christ Blessing Bread and Wine. 
 
 "ROMAN SCHOOL. 
 
 "At the head of which stands, of course, Raphael Santi, 
 but in this department we have nothing of him except 
 copies,and thosel do not like, excepting the well-known 
 Madonna della Sedia,avast deal finer than La belle Jar- 
 diniere, also much noted but never to my taste. Among
 
 [33] 
 
 the better known of the same School we find here also 
 Sassoferrato and Battoni. 
 
 "In traversing some of the smaller halls rather hur- 
 riedly during the afternoon (I was too tired to study the 
 paintings critically any longer), I found Albano worthy of 
 emphasis; a fine picture of Domenichino, the only one 
 the gallery possesses; Charity, which I should imagine 
 has inspired Kaulbach's by the same name at least the 
 former gives us all and more than the latter does; Palma 
 Vecchio, too, gives us his three daughters (beautiful wo- 
 men) as models in several fine pictures, notably in the 
 Three Sisters. Palma Giovine hardly sustained the repu- 
 tation of the great-uncle. 
 
 "Having bid adieu to the Italians again, with a good 
 look at Cignani's Joseph and Potiphar, which well de- 
 served it, I found in pushing on my first French names, 
 in which indeed the gallery seems rather pauvre (is it the 
 fault of the Frenchmen ?) and sawsome pretty landscapes 
 by Claude Lorrain and Poussin, left them and was once 
 again with my old Dutch friends, and found such impor- 
 tant acquisitions as Teniers, Ruysdael, and Wouverman 
 before I had gone far. I have not yet finished with these 
 artists, but as far as I have gotten I find that Teniers 
 (of course the younger) gives us pretty little scenes from 
 Dutch life among peasantry and soldiery, attempting 
 nothing very alarming and yet always giving us neat, 
 pretty little views, painted in great minuteness. Wou- 
 verman has a great many paintings here, and his land- 
 scapes and military fights deserve almost the same com-
 
 [34] 
 
 ment that Teniers' do, except that perhaps they have an 
 increased softness and smoothness. 
 
 " Some very bold attempts at landscape painting by the 
 other Everdingen already indicate a better day coming 
 from the landscape painters, and I dare say that when I 
 come to Ruysdael, I shall find that time still more dis- 
 tinctly foreseen. I was really too tired to continue the 
 sport any longer, so going upstairs to take a glance at the 
 splendid thirteen tapestries they have here, six of them 
 made after well-known drawings by Raphael and the 
 other seven it is contended, at least in part, after car- 
 toons of Quentin Massys, all Netherlanders and as dis- 
 tinct almost as drawings or paintings, and, therefore, 
 much more wonderful works of art general dimensions 
 about one hundred square feet I was too tired to stand 
 any more work for that day and therefore close here its 
 recital. 
 
 "May5/77. I woke up without much ambition for 
 anything this morning, and if I had not considered it a 
 sort of duty to see all that there was in Dresden, and that 
 as soon as possible, so that all remaining time might be 
 devoted to a second view of that which was most see- 
 worthy, I do n't think I could have been drawn out of 
 the house. Upon consulting the list of collections that 
 I had made, with the times of access, I concluded that 
 I had better take this morning to examine the Grune 
 Gewalbe (green vaults) in the Royal Palace, where the 
 royal treasures are kept. I was on hand at 9 A. M.,the 
 opening hour, and soon was admitted to the millions
 
 [35] 
 
 upon millions that are collected here. If one does not 
 get the supremest contempt for gold and silver and the 
 rarest precious stones from visiting these vaults, one must 
 be a hopeless case of miser, for there is such a profusion 
 of every thing that one has until now considered rare and 
 precious that finally you do n't care to examine these 
 gems in detail at all, and if you can't find a sapphire as 
 large as your fist and a diamond as large as a robin's egg, 
 you pass it by with a feeling of fatigue at being bored with 
 anything so insignificant. I don't believe old Richard 
 would have offered this kingdom for a horse, unless per- 
 haps he would mean the horse that battered down the 
 walls of Troy, which I confess must have been larger than 
 anything I saw here this morning. As you enter Vault 
 No. i, you are confronted with a roomful of bronzes, 
 which is the least interesting and least valuable of the 
 collections here, and deserves no special mention. The 
 next room is the collection of works in ivory, and is the 
 first step in the climax which is unbroken up to the end. 
 Among the many goblets and small trinkets and mantel 
 ornaments that one finds here, there is an elegant Dutch 
 frigate (not life size) byjac Zeller; the driving of the 
 rebellious angels from Heaven, a wonderful piece of 
 workmanship of ninety-two figures, kept in a still more 
 wonderfully small space; a most beautiful Musikanten- 
 Schlagerei (Musician's Fray) by A. Durer, and two small 
 horses' heads by Michael Angelo. 
 
 " Room No. I II already commences to make yourhead 
 swim and on all sides worked into all sorts of ornaments
 
 [36] 
 
 and house utensils, from a spoon to a grate and mantel, 
 you find splendid mosaics, limoges, and the famous Dan- 
 zic Bernstein, a yellowish-red sort of amber that I have 
 never seen before, ostrich eggs, mother-of-pearl, and 
 coral, all enameled and dressed in gold and silver; and 
 dancing forward and backward in the large Venetian 
 mirrors that cover all the walls, making you feel as if 
 instead of descending into the palace of Albert, King of 
 Saxony,a real flesh and blood sort of a Prince,who drinks 
 his lager and for aught I know eats his sauerkraut every 
 day, you had descended into the palace of Aladdin. One 
 grate and mantel, in particular, byNeuber,made in 1 78 2, 
 deserves special mention, not only for its richness but for 
 the great beauty with which his combinations are made. 
 "No. I Vis the gold and silver room, and of course it 
 is easy to imagine that you saw gold salvers long enough 
 for the Titans to sleep upon and pots for Hercules to 
 bathe in. All sorts of beautifully carved ornament boxes, 
 bookcases, goblets, cutlery, and Heaven knows what not. 
 Then, too, we have here pretty specimens of the Vene- 
 tians, ruby and opal glasses, a great relief from the mass 
 of gold and silver, and on going into Room Vwe get the 
 same ornaments in agate, chalcedony, lapis lazuli, helio- 
 trope, oriental jasper, onyx, until one thinks that the 
 whole bowels of the earth must have been turned in- 
 side out for the benefit of this chamber. The largest 
 piece of enameling (I believe in the world) by Dinglin- 
 gen,the Saxon Benvenuto Cellini, is here, being a Mag- 
 dalena after Carlo Dolci, and a most exquisite piece of
 
 [37] 
 
 workmanship, half a figure, life-size. Then, too, a most 
 curious piece of mechanism by Schlottheim of Augs- 
 burg, a clock representing the tower of Babel, a sort of 
 perpetuum mobile, by which a little white crystal ball takes 
 just one minute to roll around the balconies of the tower 
 from top to bottom, and no sooner gets down than it is 
 hurled up to do the whole work over again. We have 
 also here mirrors out of the Berg Crystal mounted (as 
 well as framed, a feature I had never seen before) and 
 by Cellini himself. 
 
 "No. VI contained all sorts of carvings and cuttings in 
 all sorts of metals and minerals, and en miniature just as 
 cunning a little show as one wants to see any time. It was 
 like leaving the Giants to meet the Lilliputians, and I 
 could not but look on all sides to see whether the old 
 Dean was not getting some recognition for this. 
 
 " No. VI I contains all sorts of work in wood,and dough, 
 cherry stones, and wax, curious and clever enough, and 
 also the Crown Insignia of Poland two crowns,scepters 
 and mace, which were to give me a foretaste of what the 
 next room was to contain. I was more interested in the 
 thought that a John Sobieski had worn these, than I was 
 in the numerous diamonds and sapphires and rubies out 
 of which the crowns were literally built. 
 
 "The next and last room,wonderful as the thing seems, 
 contains in actual value more than all the worth of the 
 other rooms put together, and in the various cases every 
 imaginable precious stone is found in profusion and in 
 sizes compared with which everything that I had seen
 
 [38] 
 
 before was insignificant. Particularly profuse is the col- 
 lection of diamonds, and contains among other knobs 
 (one cannot call these huge masses anything else) the 
 famous Hut agraffe, the green diamond, weighing 160 
 grammes! One lady's attire there has a train of 662 dia- 
 monds, and when one sees the numerous orders and arms 
 that are literally studded with them, you wonder why 
 the diamond should ever have been considered a rarity. 
 They have an onyx mass here sixteen one-hundredths 
 of a meter high (the largest in the world) and valued at 
 1 50,000 marks (I should have put on at least two more 
 ciphers) . I turned with a sigh of relief to the fine enamel 
 work of Dinglingen's in this chamber, the Court of the 
 Great Mogul at Delhi, a great collection of small figures, 
 animals, presents, and in the Eastern magnificent profu- 
 sion of precious stones. In leaving the collection, I could 
 not but have a touch of sadness in the thought that by 
 this trip I was fast getting into a state where there was 
 nothing more much worth seeing, and that by the time 
 I got home again, admiration would be an emotion that 
 could no longer be excited in me. These treasures have, 
 of course, been frequently menaced by the numerous in- 
 vasions, French, Prussian, and Austrian, to which Saxony 
 has at different times been laid open, and they are then 
 removed to the neighboring fortress of Konigstein. At 
 one time, too, when the Saxon credit had sunk to a pretty 
 low ebb, some of the jewels were pawned in Amsterdam, 
 and indeed one would think from looking at them that 
 if they sold for what they were worth, the proceeds might
 
 ; [39] 
 
 pay the debt even of our country. Let us turn Vandal and 
 sack Dresden, and solve the financial puzzle of the day; 
 we could at least resume jewel, if not specie payment. 
 
 " I wandered from here slowly through the streets, try- 
 ing to warm up in the sun that had now worked its 
 way through the clouds and was shining with real genial 
 May warmth, until I concluded to take a peep at the 
 Zoological Museum in the Z winger, a very small and 
 inferior collection, containing hardly any thing that in- 
 terested me, except some phrenological busts of men 
 that had distinguished themselves. 
 
 "May 8/77. Today was again devoted to the picture 
 gallery, and I started out with the expectation of mak- 
 ing my first round complete, but owing to my want of 
 endurance, and secondly to my weakness for hanging 
 eternally over what pleases me, I find at the close of the 
 day 's work that I have still my hands full. Having taken a 
 look at Correggio's Reclining Magdalen, a much smaller 
 picture than I expected to find it, I confess to a great dis- 
 appointment with it, and to me it did not realize the 
 hopes excited even by the steel engravings I had seen. 
 To be sure, the figure is exquisitely graceful, and a super- 
 ficial glance is apt to give great satisfaction, but the face 
 of Magdalen is open to the same objection that I have 
 already made to his Madonnas, and I can only conclude 
 that Correggio could not paint a beautiful female face. 
 
 " Having looked at this, I went back to the Dutch and 
 Flemish artists again, this time paying more attention 
 to Ruysdael (Jacob), who is well represented here, and
 
 [40] 
 
 who gives us one powerful landscape after the other, and 
 as changing as nature itself, and almost as prolific. Par- 
 ticularly well pleased was I with his Convent and his 
 Chase, and I was hardly prepared for the intensity of 
 feeling that he throws into the landscape of rocks and 
 gravestones, The Jewish Cemetery. 
 
 "An unknown light, Netscher, gives us a delightful 
 collection of little genre sketches, as amusing as they are 
 striking. Without dwelling on the many masters that 
 are represented here, for each of whom a good word 
 might be said, as indeed they all contribute to repro- 
 duce the charming Dutch life in the i yth century, al- 
 ways humorous, never sentimental, except perhaps to 
 the extent of a bunch of flowers, and only leaving this 
 domain of the droll to put upon record for us a sad pic- 
 ture that nature herself had already drawn before. But 
 the Netherlander never seems to be himself except at his 
 beer, or chase, a dance, and occasionally a fight. I must 
 not omit, however, to render special homage to Adrien 
 Ostade (a pupil of Hals) and Douw (a pupil of Rem- 
 brandt), who in these very happy genre pictures have 
 given us so much to make us grateful ; particularly in 
 the case of the latter, my going from one to another of 
 his little groupings was marked by a succession of Ohs! 
 As a rarity from his school, he gives us a hermit pray- 
 ing, and as a sample of true devotion and fervor, I would 
 recommend its advertisement and exposition in every 
 house of worship in the world. It is really a little mas- 
 terpiece. It is an enormous task, this examination of the
 
 [41] 
 
 hundreds upon hundreds of the smaller class of paint- 
 ings that the collection possesses, but it brings its re- 
 wards, and I have unearthed for myself many a treasure 
 that I must have deprived myself of otherwise, by just 
 this careful examination. 
 
 "A special tribute to Berchem,who deserves to rank 
 among the Ruysdaels and Wouvermans as a landscape 
 painter, and now I am ready for the modern school, to 
 which without finishing the others, I now turned as a 
 sort of rest always to be derived from variety. 
 
 "Here I found with but few exceptions only speci- 
 mens of artists either natives of Dresden or workers in 
 Dresden. It is very modest, but counts among its pic- 
 tures a good many of real merit and beauty. Almost 
 the first picture I saw is in my opinion the finest of the 
 group one by Defregger and finished only in 1877. 
 One has got to fix the subject for one's self, but the main 
 interest centers around three figures, two of whom, the 
 last of a party about to leave the inn for the chase, hang 
 back to bid adieu to what might be the waitress. The old- 
 est, a graybeard, has the hands of the girl in his, seems 
 to be asking for a kiss, and she while holding back, looks 
 the kindest, pleasantest, most naive that one ever saw, 
 while the younger of the men, not unlikely the son, leans 
 back against the house enjoying the scene, and with 
 much interest, evidently awaiting the denouement. The 
 strength of the picture lies in the great clearness with 
 which the peculiar expressions on the faces of his sub- 
 jects are depicted, and is running over with such genuine
 
 [42] 
 
 good humor that one is involuntarily disposed to hug the 
 artist who must have a friendly disposition, indeed, to 
 give us such a production. Rotermund's Body of Christ 
 Bemoaned by his Relations is also a fine picture, and un- 
 fortunately the artist's last. This part of the collection 
 has some unusually powerful and pretentious pictures, 
 among which the more prominent are Pluddermann's 
 Barbarossa Appeasing the Division in the Diet at Be- 
 san9on, i i57,Bahr's Announcement of Death to Ivan 
 the Terrible by Finnish Magicians (a really magnifi- 
 cent Ivan), Mattai's Orestes Assassinating ^Egisthus (in 
 which again the hero stands head and shoulders over 
 the other subjects in the picture, as genuine a Grecian 
 as one could wish the King of Men's Agamennon's son 
 to be), Schurigi's Bishop of Speyer Protecting the Jews 
 in the Midst of Persecutionand Massacre (indicating the 
 terrible influence of the crucifix in those days of the first 
 crusade when its appearance could instantly cowthis pas- 
 sionate mob), Roting's Columbus before the Salamanca 
 Council and last but among the best of the whole series, 
 two well conceived military episodes by Schuster: Attack 
 of the Saxon Cuirassiers at Borodino, 1812, and Resist- 
 ance of the Battalion Ausdem Wenkel&t Jena, herculean 
 tasks, but excellent in all their details. Among the better 
 landscapes, in my opinion that of Johannes Dahl stands 
 out pre-eminent and under the name of theTellemartem 
 Ferry he gives us one of those splendid peculiarly Nor- 
 wegian scenes that Black knows so well how to describe 
 in his Princess of Thule, in which mountain and river,
 
 [43] 
 
 cascade, rock, and ice combined in one dress all the or- 
 naments of Nature's jewel box. In addition, The Bay 
 of Baiae (Vesuvius and Gulf of Naples in the distance) 
 by Hoppenroth ought to receive honorable mention, as 
 in the same connection a Night Scene on the Campagna 
 by Karl W. Muller,a beautiful picture enhanced in its 
 effects by a blending of the campfire and moonlight on 
 the peasants' faces and trees and marshes around, both 
 pictures warm with the Italian country's glow. Oswald 
 and Andreas Achenbach each give us a large landscape 
 (I like the latter's best). A different Dahl gives us a fine 
 mountain scene, and Ludwig Richter a pretty scene in 
 the woods from whose densest portion a bridal party in 
 rich gaudy colors are pushing their way, making live and 
 picturesque the scene in the most charming way. Wis- 
 licenus gives us his well-known Abundantia et Miseria, 
 hardly equal to what I expected from him, and which 
 claims your attention for so long a time only because it 
 is Wislicenus' and not John Smith's. Among other gen- 
 eral topics, Muhlig's Fight between Returning Pilgrims 
 and Robbers deserves note, if only for the beautiful snow 
 scene in the woods,where the priests have been attacked ; 
 and of the genre pictures none appealed to me so strongly 
 as Leydel's picture of a poor old man and wife, to whom 
 tidings are brought by a surviving but wounded com- 
 rade of the dead son left on the Bohemian battlefield 
 in 1866, a most pathetic picture. 
 
 "Art professors and court painters are represented here, 
 too, but except in cases of certain portraits, have not ac-
 
 [44] 
 
 complished much, to judge from this exhibition. Chou- 
 lant's St. Peter, Vatican, and St. Angelo might perhaps 
 deserve more favorable treatment. Some of them have, 
 however, given us good pupils (whose names figure a- 
 bove) and that is really more important. Talent is gen- 
 erally to be found in all generations and branches the 
 main trouble lies in its proper cultivation. 
 
 " Reserving the balance, both ancient and modern, for 
 another day, I turned home to rest from my hard work, 
 and as usual, even by such attractive programmes at the 
 Hof theatre as Lohengrin, and at the Residenz,Lecocq's 
 Piccolo, once at home I cannot rouse ambition enough 
 to venture forth again, and am sulking and freezing in 
 my room. I have not yet visited the Dresden theatres, 
 and until I feel more inclined, I am not anxious to face 
 these 3-4-5 mark prices I can say with the Irishman 
 'We can have that at home.' 
 
 "May 9, '77. My eyes and head were so disordered this 
 morning that I thought I would leave all collections 
 alone, as an examination of them is a great strain on both, 
 and so the day being warm and pleasant, I forced my- 
 self out to stroll about town, selecting such portions as 
 were still new to me. I coasted through the Burger Wiese 
 and along the Grosse Garten,where one upon the other 
 the very finest villas are situated, and proving conclu- 
 sively that my first opinion about Dresden's beauty was 
 too hastily formed. I passed through the beautiful Wie- 
 ner Strasse, interested by the Gellert, Lessing, and Prager 
 Strassen, and everywhere I found the same combina-
 
 [45] 
 
 tion of elegance, comfort, and rural beauty. Evidently in 
 this Dresden the people have learned to appreciate the 
 greater blessing of having a home to yourself, instead 
 of dividing it as most of the other German citizens do, 
 between a beer-saloon, a count, a painter, and a mason. 
 This plan of et ages has never been to my liking; it has 
 always in my eyes resembled the living in a boarding 
 house, and I cannot see why its introduction into New 
 York should become so popular,except that it is cheaper, 
 or perhaps from an unfortunate weakness that our aris- 
 tocracy is acquiring of aping everything European, not 
 for the good reason as a general thing that it is better, 
 but simply because it is European. Too much argumen- 
 tum ad hominem. 
 
 "RlETSCHEL MUSEUM. 
 
 "This was my objective point this afternoon after rest- 
 lessly tossing about on my bed for two or three hours, and 
 at 3 p. M., the opening hour, I presented myself at its 
 doors, after a walk through the garden that separates it 
 from the city, and which in the increasing strength of 
 spring, is daily growing more beautiful fruit trees bud- 
 ding and flowers in their endless shades of color taking 
 distinctive form. 
 
 "The Rietschel Museum occupies the second floor and 
 the Alterthumer Museum the parterre of this pretty little 
 Lust Schloss, though two hundred years old, well pre- 
 served. The museum contains not a great many things, 
 but all of them extremely fine and interesting, being with
 
 [46] 
 
 few exceptions casts of Rietschel's numerous works, and 
 his first sketches of the same. I found in the first place 
 copies of works that I had seen in other cities, but none 
 the less interesting on that account, /^r^//W,theLessing 
 statue and Quadriga of Braunschweig, and the Thaer 
 statue (Great Agriculturist) in Leipsic.What possessed 
 the most interest for me, however, not so much because 
 they were new to me as because of their superior excel- 
 lence and the fear that I should not see the originals, 
 were the twelve tablets of the development of the human 
 race (in the Aula of the Augusteum in Leipsic),the great 
 Luther Memorial in Worms, and that exquisite group 
 of Goethe and Schiller in Weimar, the former holding 
 the laurel wreath in one hand with the otherresting upon 
 Schiller's shoulder, familiar through engravings to all 
 of us. The first one, which I had greatly regretted miss- 
 ing while in Leipsic, interested me most, and I dare say 
 more for the conception than in the execution, although 
 as regards the latter respe6t,Rietschel rarely leaves much 
 to be desired.The development of civilization is followed 
 through twelve pictures (bas-reliefs) : I . Natural State of 
 Man (representing agriculture and science in primitive 
 state); 2. Egypt (the building of the sphinx and pyra- 
 mids) ; 3 . Greece (with, of course, the Homers, Phidiases, 
 Demostheneses, and Aristotles) ; 4. Rome (the consuls 
 receiving from their victorious generals the trophies of 
 art collections brought from foreign countries) ; 5. Boni- 
 facius in Germany (indicating, no doubt, the healthful 
 influence upon primitive barbarism that the teachings of
 
 [47] 
 
 Christ exerted through the pure/well-intentioned priest); 
 6. Crusades (by which the Saracenic and general oriental 
 culture and refinement were brought back to Europe by 
 the returning legions) ; j. The Discovery of Printing 
 (making easier and cheaper the dissemination of knowl- 
 edge); 8. Commerce of the i6th Century (the beauti- 
 ful and more frequent association of different nations,by 
 which one could copy the good of another); 9. Refor- 
 mation (by which the obstacle opposed by the Catholic 
 Church of the middle ages to a higher development,was 
 removed to a great extent a new safety valve) ; I o. Re- 
 naissance (the Raphaels and Angelos and Cellinis reviv- 
 ing the purity of ancient styles in the fine arts) ; 1 1 . Mod- 
 ern Art and Science (the work of Goethe, Shakespeare, 
 and Beethoven of Kant,Stephenson,and Newton,etc.); 
 12. Einfuhrung der A uf as sung in Sachsen (a work not 
 only delightful for its outer beauties,but full of suggestive- 
 ness and philosophy). I suppose next in order will rank 
 his Luther Denkmal (Memorial), in which he seems to 
 have received the assistance of his disciples, Schilling, 
 Kietz, and Doundorf, principally the latter ones, who 
 have modeled a number of the side figures, and in a 
 manner, too,worthy of their master. A colossal figure of 
 Luther crowns the central figure, and here the numer- 
 ous sketches of Rietschel show how much care he gave 
 to it, and how repeatedly the model was changed until 
 he hit upon the actual one, by all odds the best. Luther 
 does not look soured from too much thought, nor em- 
 bittered by persecution from the papists, but stands with
 
 [48] 
 
 head eredt and a look of pleasure derived from triumph 
 upon his face, as with one hand he points for confirma- 
 tion of his claims to the Bible he holds in the other. Be- 
 neath him are four large figures of John Huss (contem- 
 plating with an air of sadness the crucifix he holds in his 
 hands) ,Willef engaged in study, Savanarola in the midst 
 of a passionate address, and Petrus Waldus. This main 
 part of the memorial is ornamented by bas-reliefs il- 
 lustrating the Lutheran creed and the changes it intro- 
 duced, with bust of his more prominent co-iconoclasts, 
 among others Calvin, Zwingli, etc. This monument is 
 surrounded by a stone promenade, whose four corners 
 are crowned by four statues, also colossal, in front Fried- 
 rich der Weise (Sachsen) and Philipp (Hesse), in the 
 rearReuchlin and Melanchthon,with intermediate al- 
 legorical figures of the cities of Augsburg, Magdeburg, 
 and Speyer a beautiful execution of another of those 
 broad conceptions of which Rietschel was so capable. 
 "Among other fine works of the master that deserve 
 special mention are his Magdalen at the feet of Christ 
 dead upon the cross, and Mary with the dead body of 
 Christ lying before her, coming very near to my no- 
 tion of what these characters ought to portray. There 
 are copies, too, of his fine gable-reliefs for the museum 
 and theatre here,notably allegorical groups of Music and 
 Tragedy , and among the more prominent statues also for 
 the same edifices, Goethe, Giotto, Holbein, Durer, and 
 Pericles. A great many copies of individual busts of prom- 
 inent men in all departments of life are here, interest-
 
 [49] 
 
 ing not only for their artistic beauty, but also for the 
 phrenological study they offer. I know no pleasanter 
 task than to study a fine face or a fine head, and a Goethe 
 or a Webster or Cuvier at each view seems to possess an 
 increased attraction for me. Still it would not be profit- 
 able to rehearse here a list of all the actors,poets,painters, 
 generals, nobles, etc., that formed subjects at one time 
 and another for this versatile sculptor. He gives us busts 
 of his three wives, and one cannot but feel that he had 
 an eye for the beautiful. I would recommend to every- 
 one who visits the museum a close scrutiny of the 'true 
 inwardness' of Rietschel himself, and the best history 
 of his works. I had spent an interesting hour or two here 
 and was quite willing now to go home and stay home. 
 A fine symphony programme at the Belvedere, but my 
 head aches too badly. 
 
 "Sunday, May 1 3, '77. These last few days have been 
 among the saddest of my trip, for I cannot help seeing 
 that whether from some indiscretion on my part, or what, 
 my eyes and head are growing worse and I am constantly 
 forced still further to restrict myself in the use of both. 
 I find it difficult in this way to write even these few notes, 
 and if I did not cling to them desperately as a last hope, 
 as the only return my trip is making me, I should give 
 them up, too. Walking soon fatigues me, examining col- 
 lections still more so. I have no patience for lying on 
 my bed all day, sore as my head may feel, and I cannot 
 see how I shall long be able to bear this. 
 
 "The day was a rainy one, and I remained indoors un-
 
 [50] 
 
 til three or four in the afternoon,when the sun coming 
 out, I walked out to the garden to take a look at the zoo- 
 logical collection, which is placed here and is, I believe, 
 the property of some private association. At all events 
 an admission fee is charged. The animals are spread over 
 a large space of ground, placed in groups and irreg- 
 ularly, and in coming forward and driving backward 
 again to be sure of seeing all that was offered, I soon got 
 wretchedly fatigued and could give the collection only a 
 hurried and superficial examination. Under these cir- 
 cumstances, fortified by my very limited knowledge of 
 natural history, I found very little here that was of un- 
 usual interest or value, and hardly more than a match for 
 one of our better class menageries. 
 
 "Tuesday, May 1 5/77. My eyes are growing so weak 
 that these notes have got to be written a line at a time, 
 and I feel sorely tempted to give them up altogether. 
 
 " I went to the Gemdlde Gallerie in the morning with 
 the hope that I might finish my first round of the pictures, 
 and then be prepared to review all the more prominent 
 features of the collection, but I soon found that my eyes 
 could not bear the strain and a half hour's stay was the 
 limit of my endurance. If this is to continue so, God 
 knows what good the trip is going to do me. The little 
 time spent here was devoted to examining the three 
 pictures of Angelica KaufFman they have here: Sibyl, 
 Vestal Virgin, and Ariadne, which I did not find equal- 
 ing my expectations in any respect but gracefulness; 
 some pictures by Raphael Mengs which did him very
 
 little credit; a huge historical incident by Julius Hubner 
 of great interest as such, but like a great many more pic- 
 tures that you find here, although it affords you some 
 pleasure in looking at it and displays considerable skill, 
 yet it leaves you unsatisfied. It does not rouse that real 
 enthusiasm that an excellent picture is almost sure to. It 
 represents the disputation of Luther and Ech at Leipsic 
 before Duke George and other princes, and introduces 
 many of the prominent figures of that day whom the 
 Reformation, like an earthquake, made so, out of their 
 obscurity. Vogel's portraits of his own little boys exam- 
 ining a picture book is one of the most pleasing things 
 I have seen here. Just as I was going out, too, I struck a 
 large picture by Rotari, a night piece, Repose of the 
 Holy Family on the Flight into Egypt, inspired I im- 
 agine by Correggio's La Notte and I confess, pleasing 
 me better. I make no one but myself responsible for 
 these anti ex cathedra opinions and am only noting im- 
 pressions as they were formed. I don't propose to fly 
 into ecstasies about a thing simply because I am told to, 
 willing as I am however, to develop an artistic taste by 
 examining carefully and as intelligently as I know how, 
 what more experienced hands have declared praise- 
 worthy."
 
 "Dresden : A Pilgrimage 
 
 WHILE in Dresden, experiencing a day of fa- 
 tigue when visits to the museums meant 
 too much of a tax on his eyes, he resorted 
 to tramping in the open country. Nothing 
 he enjoyed more than long tramps over hills and dales, 
 appreciating the beauties ofnature aspects of snowcov- 
 ered peaks in the distance, wonderful sunsets, aroused al- 
 most a religious feeling in him God's gifts to human- 
 ity would they but see! 
 
 Music was his natural gift. He embraced every chance 
 to hear the famous musicians of the day, and he had in- 
 tense reverence for the great composers to whom he was 
 indebted for joy and solace when all else failed. 
 
 In his journal he writes on May 1 5, 1 877, from Dres- 
 den: 
 
 "In the afternoon, determined to force myself into a 
 walk no matter how fatiguing it might be, and know- 
 ing also that my chances of seeing it out would be im- 
 proved by fixing a definite destination, I selected the sub- 
 urb Friedrichstadt which I had steered for and missed on 
 a previous occasion. I reached it all right this time, by 
 walking through the prettyOstra4//ee facing the Z win- 
 ger, which leads right over the viaduct into the little town. 
 Finding nothing short of that to stop me as worthy of 
 examination, I pushed on to the old Catholic graveyard
 
 [S3] 
 
 here, and was sure to find something to interest me, if 
 only in the grave of good old Carl Maria von Weber. 
 The sun for almost the first time since my arrival had 
 come out, hot and trying as the summer sun in its senses 
 should, and yet I was quite content though exposed to 
 its three o'clock rays to work my way through Dukes 
 and Counts, Chamberlains and Generals that are scat- 
 tered about here thick as bees in a hive, though with- 
 out very striking monuments, in the hope that I should 
 soon find where my great favorite was buried. And so in- 
 terested was I in my search that I refused to pray for these 
 departed souls as their tombstones in many instances pi- 
 ously requested. At last I found what I was looking for 
 in a plain grave in a quiet little corner,four laurel wreaths 
 upon the uplifted sod being the sole indication that here 
 a more than ordinarily genial and gifted man had gone 
 the way that all alike, rich and poor,laborer and philoso- 
 pher, go in their day. Truly a great leveler is the church- 
 yard. I picked a bit of a wreath (rather sacrilegiously I 
 confess) took a flower or two that grew wild by his grave 
 and placed these by the side of those of Calhoun and 
 Monroe which I had gathered while South rather a 
 queer mixture I confess, but then, great men are always 
 in place in the company of each other, and every genius 
 be he orator, diplomat, or musician can find something 
 congenial in the association with another. It is not diffi- 
 cult to imagine Dante and Beethoven good friends. Hav- 
 ing taken a long look at the grave that held all that was 
 left of the man that had given me so many an hour of
 
 [54] 
 
 real pleasure at the opera with Freischutz and Oberon, 
 and at the piano with his unsurpassed sonatas, I turned 
 back without much curiosity to examine the graves of 
 thosewho are onlygreatbecause their fathers beforethem 
 were." 
 
 Again in Vienna,on Wednesday, June 6, '77,he writes: 
 "More to save my eyes than aught else, I started out 
 to pay my pilgrimage to some of the distinguished graves 
 that the Viennese suburban graveyards contain.They are 
 distributed over an enormous extent of country, but I se- 
 lected the one on the Wahring Road and left the others 
 for some other time. The day was very hot and dusty, 
 the sun strong, but I armed myself with my umbrella 
 and determined to brave it. I struck the Ring and then 
 walked down the Wahringer Gasse. This led me to the 
 Gurtel Strasse which encloses the whole city, and having 
 passed that, I was in Wahring, one of the many outer sub- 
 urbs of the city which swells the population of 600,000 
 to i ,ooo,ooo,but is so properly part of the city that it de- 
 serves to be counted as part of it. Having been led astray 
 by mal-informants I went to the Allgemeine Wahringer 
 FriedAof(the general Wahringer Cemetery) where, for 
 an hour, I looked in vain for the objects of my search, 
 and finally found that I was still within a half hour's walk 
 of my destination. Then by wrong information received 
 again, I walked too far. I struck a little graveyard, to be 
 sure, but again the wrong one. From the hills which 
 commence to grow from this point and extend to the 
 Rhine, I turned back and rested myself in a restaurant,
 
 [55] 
 
 eating some wretched Lammeme sgebacken^ sort of pan- 
 cake with raisins and currants, just to explore the mys- 
 tery surrounding the name. I then found the Fried/iofor 
 cemetery I was after, the Wahringer Ost Fried/iofznd here 
 something to justify the morning's tramp. The grave- 
 yards of Vienna are interesting only for the bones they 
 contain. Theyare neither kept neatly nor are the tomb- 
 stones ornamental, and indeed nowhere in Europe have 
 I found anything that bears the slightest comparison 
 with Greenwood Cemetery, Spring Grove, Holly Tree, 
 or Green Mount. 
 
 "I had no eyes for the marshals and ministers and 
 counts on all sides, when the spot contained all that re- 
 mains of a Beethoven, and before the simple unassum- 
 ing obelisk that indicates the spot where he was laid after 
 his long life of woe and tense activity, I paid the homage 
 that is due to the man who has given me the best hours of 
 my existence, for indeed I am never so wholly forgetful 
 of self, never so fully lifted out of the cares and pains of 
 this world as when under the influence of that wonder- 
 ful harmony of sounds that we call music and of which 
 he was so emphatically and indisputably^a/? princeps. 
 The world is not united as to who has been the greatest 
 poet, dramatist, philosopher, scientist, divine, physician, 
 lawyer, or orator, but it is unanimous in the verdicl: that 
 Beethoven is king of musicians and nothing upon his 
 monument but the nine letters of his name. The com- 
 bined essence of the strength of the nine muses is nec- 
 essary to tell the world the greatness of the genius who
 
 [56] 
 
 reposes there. Near him lies the lovely Schubert, who, 
 in his few thirty-one years, did the work of a century, 
 and who follows well in the footsteps of the great com- 
 poser beside him. I have owed too much pleasure to him 
 as well as the other not to be quite willing to pay him 
 part of the homage that brought me to my Mecca. A 
 laurel wreath from the society of Friends of Musicians 
 adorns the grave of each, and with a leaf from each and 
 some small flowers that grew wild by the side of their 
 graves, I made a small bouquet that should hereafter be 
 to me a memento of one of the happiest moments of my 
 wanderings, and I left the cemetery with it as proud of 
 my little bouquet of flowers as any victor returning home 
 to Rome with his train of triumphal trophies. 
 
 "By the side of less important graves, I might have 
 paid more attention to those of Seyfried, the composer, 
 and Franck, the great physician, but today and under 
 these circumstances, I would have felt it sacrilege to di- 
 vide my reverence between them and a Beethoven and 
 Schubert."
 
 [57] 
 
 CHAPTER IV 
 Prague 
 
 ;-im Jf~ AY 2 3'77-The unique appearance of the 
 
 ^L /I city warned me that there was much for 
 
 ^k/ me to see here and I was therefore about 
 
 JL- T M early and did not even wait for an appetite 
 for breakfast. I pushed through the Graben, one of the 
 most active of the business streets of Prague and that 
 says much, for they are all jammed through a nar- 
 row lane into the fruit market, as yet showing but little 
 fruit, a few uninviting cherries, which the peasant wo- 
 men were neatly entwining with small yellow flowers. 
 In the proper season, no doubt this market must be an 
 attractive spot, for Bohemian fruit is as famous as it is 
 plentiful. Another small lane, for we are in the Altstadt 
 (old town) now,and the streets are as small as the houses 
 are large, indicating the commercial prosperity and mu- 
 nicipal importance of this city for many centuries, and 
 now I have struck a mine of attractions, the Grosser 
 Ring (a large square), to the right the pretty old Gothic 
 Rathhaus, evidently restored,though retaining the Mid- 
 dle Age architecture complete, with figures of those men 
 who are constantly memorialized in Prague, and who 
 play the same part here that 'The Lowe* does in Braun- 
 schweigOtto in Magdeburg; viz., of the old Slavic line 
 of Kings, Spittigrew II and Ottakar II, of the German 
 Emperors, the famous Carl IV, and his less significant
 
 [58] 
 
 even though sanctified Wenzel, and finally, the Austrian 
 Emperors, Der Gute Franz and Ferdinand I. The old 
 tower is still attached to the haus, and shows upon its 
 front a famous astronomical clock, whose wonder I did 
 not stop to examine, only contenting myself with seeing 
 the dial that pointed out to the minute the time of the 
 day. Directly opposite, though behind the houses, the fa- 
 mous Teyn-kirche (church), whose two beautiful steeples 
 tower above them and follow you all over the Altstadt. 
 They were built by Podiebrad, who was crowned here 
 and who planted upon its gable the Hussite emblem, 
 the Kelch, and his own image but which went the way 
 of the fortunes of its seel: and soon was replaced by the 
 Holy Virgin, who I trust has not been rendered less im- 
 maculate by contact with so unholy an object. In the 
 middle of the square by the side of the large fountain 
 and lights that one meets in all the open places of the 
 city, a high column, also surmounted by an image of the 
 God-Mother, erected by Ferdinand III in memory of 
 the deliverance of the city from the Swedes. (It is an 
 open question in my mind whether this is a cause for 
 gratitude or not.) Alongside of this, exposed to view, a 
 Virgin, Christ on Crucifix, and other altar insignia, deco- 
 rated with flowers and branches, around which the pious 
 farmers were kneeling and praying most devoutly. Here 
 was something new, for a fact, and surprised me and 
 shocked me not a little, but before I had finished my 
 day's touring I had found the sight a sufficiently com- 
 mon one, and have received so many evidences of the
 
 [59] 
 
 great bigotry of the populace and their servile fear of and 
 reverence for the priesthood, whom they literally treat 
 as Gods, falling down in the middle of the streets before 
 them as they pass, kissing their hands and coats, and per- 
 forming the wildest antics, that I am overwhelmed with 
 a sense of disgust with the whole priest-craft, not because 
 they make their congregations devout (on the contrary, 
 all credit to them for that), but because to make them 
 so, or rather to make themselves a power impregnable, 
 they retain these people in the darkest ignorance,which 
 alone can render such blind servility and idolatry possi- 
 ble.Truly I believe the Southern ante-war slave was not 
 so blind to his condition as these people to theirs. In one 
 day I seemed for the first time fully to appreciate the 
 danger to civil government, liberty of speech, and wor- 
 ship, that this growing strength of the priesthood is pre- 
 paring, and woe to the progress of the world if it be not 
 nipped in the bud. No party is so dangerous as the one 
 whose platform rests upon ignorance and prejudice. 
 
 " Wherever you turn here, in squares, on walls, houses, 
 bridges, and fields, images of Christ, Virgin, and Saints, 
 and everywhere a praying, crossing, and kissing of wood, 
 stone, and earth, that make you feel as if you had got- 
 ten into church and could not get out again. 
 
 "Another peculiar feature of Prague, although this a 
 much pleasanter one, is the palaces that one upon the 
 other meet the tourist on every side. Of course they hail 
 from a day when Prague's importance in the council 
 of nations was equal to that of a Vienna today, and most
 
 [6o] 
 
 of them look mouldy and dirty, yet substantial withal, 
 and claim Gallas,Kinsky,Nostitz,and Schlich, pointing 
 to a Bohemian nobility whose families though well-nigh 
 extinct today, thanks to Austria -Catholic persecution, 
 are terribly familiar in the world's history. The first of 
 these I found in a little Huss-Strasse on my way to the 
 Carlo-bridge, not far removed, and which after travers- 
 ing a few courts and markets full of stalls, a sort of eter- 
 nal Leipsic Messe (fair), I found also a center of attrac- 
 tions. To the left of me, I found a bevy of churches, and 
 long dingy-looking houses, steeples, towers, and courts, 
 which turned out to be the famous Collegium Clemen- 
 tinum the first German College, that under the wise 
 supervision of its founder, Carl IV, in i 348, counted 30,- 
 ooo students from all parts of the world, but under St. 
 Wenzel, his successor, who discriminated against for- 
 eigners, lost most of them again. It is now under the 
 control of Jesuits,which candidly means that it is an ex- 
 cellent school, and still counts 2,500 pupils. In its court 
 a young student (in marble) carrying banner aloft, erect- 
 ed in honor of the part the students took in resisting the 
 entry of the Swedes in the Thirty Years' War. In front 
 of the buildings and by the side of the bridge, a splen- 
 did monument (colossal) of Carl I V, by Hahnel, creeled 
 in 1 848 by the students at the 5ooth anniversary of the 
 school's foundation four female figures of the Facul- 
 ties,beneath a standing figure of the Emperor.Thebridge 
 itself,one of the four orfive that connect the Altstadt with 
 the Klein Seite and Hradschin, is a marvel of curiosities
 
 [6.] 
 
 and deserves a much fuller description that I am going to 
 give it almost a third of a mile long, solidly built on 
 huge stone piers, it is crowned at either end with high 
 towers,which were intended to serve as citadels, and the 
 one on this side, indeed, did in the aforesaid entry of 
 the Swedes into the city (Klein Seite) through treachery 
 from within, though attacked for two weeks, prevent 
 the further approach to the city. And when, too, in 1 744 
 the Prussians were driven out of here, the bridge was the 
 scene of bloody conflict. The tower bears the arms of 
 all those countries that at one time or another were al- 
 lied with Bohemia, the two emperors'statues,with those 
 of some Saints, and facing the other side of the river, the 
 city's coat of arms. On its gallery, in 1621, and for ten 
 years after, the heads of the twenty -seven Hussite no- 
 bles that were decapitated here,were exposed to view to 
 remind how well the Church was carrying out the pre- 
 cepts of its God: 'Do unto others as you would be done 
 by' all along the bridge, one group after the other, you 
 find colossal images of the Saints,andcrucifixions,etc. 
 notably one of Nepomic, Bohemia's Patron Saint, who 
 from this bridge was hurled into the river by Wenzel, 
 because he would not reveal to him the confession of the 
 Empress. One group, too, as the inscription says, was 
 erected from funds belonging to Jews, confiscated by the 
 praiseworthy council because the former would not do 
 homage to the crucifix. One group, strange it looked to 
 me, bore a Hebrew inscription. The Moldau here is a 
 beautiful wide stream and looking across it to the Klein
 
 [62] 
 
 Seite one sees a magnificent picture a very high hill, 
 with dense forest,cro wned withan extensive convent and 
 chapels running down into the water to meet prettily 
 cultivated islands. At its side another huge hill, climb- 
 ing up which is the side of the city, houses of quaintest 
 architecture,churches,and convents of all styles and ages, 
 and finally upon its extreme top, the Capitol of Prague, 
 the famous Hradschin, and the beautiful Dom in its very 
 bosom, a sight to make one's heart leap, and I could not 
 gratify my desire to look at it enough. No doubt, I shall 
 see finer palaces, greater churches, and higher mountains 
 in Europe, but I doubt whether I shall find again such a 
 combination of the quaint and beautiful, so warmly sup- 
 ported by nature as this Capitol, the Moldau, and these 
 hills afforded. I was enjoying one of those moments when 
 I felt convinced that it was worth the while to come to 
 Europe for sightseeing alone. 
 
 " On the square at the end of the Erucher Gasse I found 
 the Radetzky Derkinal (Memorial), erected in memory 
 of the victor of the Piedmontese Campaigns of i 848-9, 
 out of cannon captured and after a model by Edward and 
 Joseph Max, who seem to play the same part in Prague 
 that Rietschel,Hahnel,and Schilling do in Dresden.The 
 Marshal, banner in hand, stands upon a shield borne by 
 eight soldiers, typical of the different military branches 
 of the Austrian army. 
 
 " From here I started up the hill that leads to the Hrad- 
 schm, through a collection of barracks and churches, 
 notably the St. Nicolaus, a fine old church reaching
 
 [ 6 3] 
 
 way up into the heavens, whose green domed cupola re- 
 minded me of the Dom in Dresden. All of these churches 
 have their Schatz-Kammer (treasure chamber), but I do 
 not propose to examine them all. I have long since ac- 
 quired a contemptuous indifference for 'precious 'stones 
 and metals. After much hard breathing and sweating, I 
 attained the level of the famous square and at once found 
 myself in the presence of the various palaces and public 
 buildings that earn for it the name of Capital. 
 
 "They are all old, and outside at least, not very magnifi- 
 cent, but yet very large and with a Slavonic ruggedness. 
 There the palace of the Cardinal Archbishop, opposite 
 that of the Schwarzenberg family, and just opposite the 
 Burg the old Toscana Palace, now the property of the 
 Emperor. I passed into the Burg- Hof and found a marble 
 palace yellow with age, winding around the top of the 
 hill and coiling about in its own outer circle in a way 
 to make one think of the perpetuum mobile, it seemed 
 to have no end. This is the seat of the old Bohemian 
 Kings, founded by Carl IVand continually enlarged and 
 improved by successors down to Maria Theresa. I did 
 not examine the interior (the attractions offered were not 
 strong enough to overcome the horror I have for guides) 
 and I contented myself with looking at the window 
 from which in 1 6 1 8 the two councillors were thrown 
 by GrafThurn, and which was the casus belli for the 
 Thirty Years' War. The jump did not look enviable,and 
 the blood stains had been removed; I passed on to fur- 
 ther inner circles which enclosed the Metropolitan St.
 
 [64] 
 
 VeitKirche, a not large but delightfully graceful Gothic 
 structure, dating back to the 1 4th century, the plan of 
 Auler von Genund, and though much injured by Prus- 
 sian bombardment, in 175 7, pretty well restored again, 
 and now in process of enlargement. Its steeple (once 
 five hundred feet high ! ) was destroyed by fire but even 
 now stands three hundred feet and more above the ele- 
 vation of the hill. Just before entering the Church I 
 came upon a little Chapel which contains the remains 
 of the famous Adalbert, a Hildebrand sort of priest that 
 could be general confessor, orator, and diplomat, accord- 
 ing as the occasion demanded. Here, of course, there 
 were plenty rendering homage and more than one fierce 
 look was cast at me for passing it by without lifting 
 my hat. No offense intended. I now entered the Dom 
 and before I could give the blaze of everything precious 
 that dazzled me at first entrance a second glance, I was 
 seized upon by a priest, and in spite of my remonstrances 
 dragged into a Chapel at one corner, being told by the 
 hypocrite that mass was in progress, but he would show 
 me something in the meanwhile. I saw there was no re- 
 sisting and so followed him and was forced to examine in 
 about five seconds what without him I should have given 
 at least half an hour, and saw substantially nothing. At 
 the door they show you an ivory ring at which Wenzel 
 grasped when murdered by his brother Balestan. In the 
 inside the remains of the Saint, surrounded by a little 
 Chapel containing his helmet and coat of mail, weigh- 
 ing the Lord knows how many pounds, a fine standing
 
 [65] 
 
 chandelier with statue of Wenzel (gilded bronze) by P. 
 Vescher, and walls inlaid with Bohemian gems mon- 
 sters, of course. Indeed, this Church is particularly rich 
 in holy relics and temporal treasures of all sorts and in 
 one place and another reminds you of what the Pope's 
 table must look like now, after treasures have been pour- 
 ing into the ' poor ' man from all parts of the world. 
 Having shown me this and asked for his trinkgeld, the 
 rascally priest now told me that I might wander about 
 the Church proper and need not be disturbed by the 
 mass which was always being celebrated here. I did so, 
 and found the spot that covers the remains of numerous 
 emperors, kings, and consorts; a most magnificent main 
 altar and numerous smaller ones in different parts of 
 the Church; then woodwork, frescoes, and mosaics in 
 profusion; an old picture, 1368, of Christ by Thomas 
 von Mutina of Prague, and good at that; graves of holy 
 people and royal families (one doesn't even think any- 
 thing of an Emperor more or less here), including those 
 of St. Veit, the Patron of the Church and the first two 
 Bohemian Ottokars. One really gets spoiled in rushing 
 about as I do from one center of attraction to another, 
 and by the time I left the Church I was thoroughly sur- 
 feited with the exceptionally important relics that are 
 crowded here. It is only a wonder to me that these pious 
 Catholics do not get the lockjaw in passing through 
 here, there is so much that calls for kneeling and cross- 
 ing and aves. I had no desire to examine the famous 
 Schatx-Kammer of the Cathedral, and hurried out into
 
 [66] 
 
 the fresh air to get relief from the oppressive holiness 
 I left behind me. 
 
 "I passed out of the Burg again on to another part of the 
 hill,where an enormous Caserne like so many of them 
 an ex-palace, this one of the largest in Germany the 
 Czerninsche Major atshuas, faces the little Chapel San 
 Loretto, a sort of summer garden church, that is a large 
 court, whose enclosing walls are covered with frescoes 
 and paintings of holy personages and whose niches en- 
 close shrines and altars, rivaling in gaudy color and rich- 
 ness those of the Dom and showing the same reckless 
 use of silver. Of course these had their devotees, too, 
 and the fat unassthetic looking priests that lolled about 
 made one wonder how many of Prague's 200,000 peo- 
 ple were not priests and Jews. The Capuziner Convent 
 that leads the way to the Reichsthor warned me that I 
 was getting on to the hills and away from the city and so 
 I turned back, descended the hill in a different direc- 
 tion from which I had come, and so manipulating as to 
 strike the Franzens Briicke, a pretty suspension bridge 
 that leads into the Neustadt. After enjoying this new 
 view of Prague that the bridge offers, which made the 
 old city look like a new one from the >uais, broader 
 streets and fine modern mansions that face the bridge, 
 I entered Ferdinand Street and found that even Prague, 
 burdened as she is with the enormous priest influence, 
 has made some progress, though little, and has worked 
 her way out of the old walls and over the Graben (moat) . 
 Facing the river is a very stately Bohmisches National
 
 [67] 
 
 Theatre in process of completion, then follow numer- 
 ous fine business edifices, strengthened by the unusually 
 fine Government buildings that cluster around here, and 
 which probably led the way for the general improve- 
 ment that has taken place another argument in sup- 
 port of our own Government's policy in lavishing such 
 enormous sums on post and custom house offices even in 
 the smaller cities. It lends tone to the local architecture. 
 At the end of the street as it leads into the busy Graben 
 and Zeltner-Gassen, a Chapel and Convent of St. Ursula, 
 with a shrine on the pavement of course, to the honor 
 of St. Napomic. I had earned the rest I now took, and 
 then wrote home, in which letter I tried to make them 
 feel that some of the good cheer that their letters con- 
 tained had left its mark upon me. I often feel inclined 
 to play the hypocrite in writing home, in order to spare 
 them the annoyance, if not pain, that a gloomy tone must 
 bring them. Made my first investment in Austrian post- 
 agestamps and thenafter wandering about without much 
 clear design among the busier part of the city, I tried to 
 find if Bohemians looked very different from other peo- 
 ple, and though their strange tongue is apt to give that 
 impression, I do n't think they do, if one excepts perhaps, 
 a certain hardness and sharpness in their faces' outlines. 
 I was pleased to find greater beauty of the women over 
 those of North Germany. Of course, too, officials and 
 soldiers dress differently here; there are still plenty of 
 them, and this also helps to make you feel that you have 
 crossed some frontier. The people strike me as more
 
 [68] 
 
 polite, more considerate of the foreigner than is the Ger- 
 man, and far less vain (perhaps because of late they have 
 had less temptation to be so) .This comparison of peoples 
 promises to be one of the most interesting features of my 
 trip. I strolled out of this busy center, through thePu/- 
 verthurm, a pretty little T/ior that leads out of the Alt- 
 stadtinto that collection of fine comptoirs and warehouses 
 (mainly sugar, a great industry in Bohemia) that cluster 
 about the large depot of the Staats-bahn. I folio wed along 
 the old Konigstaf, the old Royal residence, now Caserne 
 (barracks), through the Elizabeth-Gosse that leads to 
 another suspension bridge over the Moldau, the Franz- 
 Joseph, then wound my way back through the older part 
 of the town again, not seeing much that does not at 
 one place or another find description in these pages, but 
 which satisfied me that I was not leaving some hidden 
 treasure in the city unexplored. This wandering through 
 relics of 500 years ago, and dreaming of different times 
 and different people from our own, with an occasional 
 discovery of some more startling landmark, is a beauti- 
 ful feature of my trip, and one that adorns that of very 
 few tourists, I believe. To do this, it is necessary to travel 
 alone and to travel leisurely. 
 
 "The day was finished at home, sadly and solitarily, as 
 usual. 
 
 " May 24/77. I wished to finish with Prague today and 
 so early mapped out a plan of the day's work to include 
 the see-worthy things I had as yet left unseen. Soon,there- 
 fore, in spite of the rain that was drizzling constantly
 
 [69] 
 
 here, as it had been doing for an indefinite time previous- 
 ly in Dresden, in what should have been the beautiful 
 month of May, I was on my way, starting from the Carlo 
 Platz in theNeustadtythe old Viet market,and the largest 
 of Prague's squares,now prettily laid out in shaded walks. 
 At its head the so called new RaMaus, old enough, 
 however, to have been the scene of the first of the many 
 conflicts of the Huss Wars, and which Ziska stormed to 
 free his captive brothers in faith and threw the council 
 out of the window (1419). All about it are innumerable 
 charitable institutions and some pretty churches, and on 
 the road leading to the southern limit,Wyssehrad, the 
 Benedictine Convent with its'OrayStudeyLabora' I fol- 
 lowed the road to the hill crowned with fortifications, 
 wound my way back as I had come, and pushed on to- 
 wards the oldest portion of the city, the o\&Juden Viertel, 
 a wretched looking quarter, but in which it has now be- 
 come the privilege of Christian, as well as Jew, to curse 
 that Providence which seems to distribute its mundane 
 gifts so unequally, and the same hovel now often shows 
 the worship of Christ in one corner, the reading of the 
 Mosaic law in the other. Here, too, is the oldest building 
 in Prague now in existence, the famous Alt Neu Schule 
 (Synagogue), and as it was closed on other conditions,! 
 allowed my aversion to guides to be overcome by my 
 strong desire to see this curiosity, aided by the argument 
 urged by one of the many guides who volunteer to show 
 you around here, that the Kron-Prinz had visited it. A 
 clock with Hebrew alphabet instead of figures indicated
 
 the site, and into a little bit of an old subterranean grotto 
 I was ushered by the porter. It is called AltNeu, because 
 the lower portion, i ,000 years old and five hundredyears 
 ago unearthed, is of Byzantine architecture, with yel- 
 low basilicas, and the newer portion, though the blacker 
 from its smoke that arises from the numerous candles, 
 Gothic and the only instance on record of a synagogue 
 built in that school, eminently a Christian one, and of 
 course the work of a Christian architect. It is strictly a 
 Sc/mte,no preacher,no choir or organ, and the women are 
 obliged to remain in a separate chamber separated from 
 the main one by thick walls, connected only with wee 
 port-holes which are opened during the service to enable 
 them to hear the reading of the books of Moses from a 
 Torah, unearthed with the other relics. They are during 
 the reading placed upon a huge stone mound that re- 
 minds one of the Druid Altars, and altogether if it had 
 not been for the unceasing chatter of my Cicerone, I think 
 I should have been greatly impressed with the sanctity 
 and solemnity of the place. Deep benches along the 
 wall might accommodate about a hundred worshippers, 
 I should say, and they have in all Prague about twenty 
 synagogues clustering about here of hardly greater size, 
 to accommodate the eighteen thousand Arch Jews that 
 the city contains. A flag floats over the synagogue, a pres- 
 ent from Emperor Ferdinand III, in recognition of the 
 Jewish aid, granted to the defense of the city in 1648. 
 Many a campaign since, fortunately, has offered addi- 
 tional testimony to the valor of the Maccabees' follow-
 
 ers. Near by is the old graveyard of equal interest, with 
 old decayed gravestones, hardly legible Jewish inscrip- 
 tions and family trees, tracing descent from the various 
 tribes of Judah. The synagogue shows two water marks 
 left by the flood of the last two decades, but fortunately 
 not strong enough to have taken from us entirely this 
 beautiful relic of the mediaeval enthusiasm of the Jews. 
 " From this point I crossed the river again to the Hrad- 
 schin on the Kettenstcg, and below the Hirsch Graben 
 which here skirts between Capitol and endless Casernen, 
 the hill is neatly laid out in garden plots and walks and 
 belongs, I believe, to the Belvedere, built by Ferdinand 
 I, in honor of his wife. The villa itself I did not find. 
 I had come over mainly to see the Wallenstein Palace, 
 still the home of the Wallenstein family and built by 
 the great 'Friedlander' himself. On the way to it, I found 
 the Furstenberg Palace which with the other, at least to 
 outward appearance, indicates massiveness rather than 
 beauty, and shows that the Rococo had not yet appeared 
 on the scene to liven the dreams of architects. One really 
 sees no signs of that in Prague, except as the modern het- 
 erogeneous school has felt its influence the city belongs 
 to an earlier day its grandeur and its strength, and that is 
 evident in every part of it that has an historical interest."
 
 [72] 
 
 CHAPTER V 
 Vienna 
 
 UPPER BELVEDERE. 
 
 "M 
 
 ONDAY, May 28/77. Today I was prepared 
 to begin the work of doing the numerous 
 art collections, and upon consulting my Stu- 
 denten Zettel, I concluded to start with the 
 Munz and Antiken Cabinet. This is in the Burg, and I 
 made a short cut for it, closing my eyes to everything 
 attractive on the way, as I wished to arrive bright and 
 fresh at the collection. It consists of a large collection 
 of coins and medals, some forty thousand in all, of all 
 nations and times, from the old Grecians to the 1876 
 Gulden and Kr.,its medals commemorating many inter- 
 esting events. But I did not examine them in detail, re- 
 serving my eyes for other attractions about me. The An- 
 tiken consists mainly of old bronzes, very few of them 
 interesting except to show how already two and three 
 centuries before Christ very creditable work was done 
 of Grecian and Etruscan vases of Norse and Roman 
 implements of war dug out of different parts of Aus- 
 trian territory as also,prehistoric arrow-heads and some 
 cooking utensils from the same regions not so interest- 
 ing by far as the French specimens in the Smithsonian. 
 The best feature of the collection is the great amount 
 of fine cameo and intaglio work. They have an endless 
 number of rings here, transparent and otherwise, of sing-
 
 [73] 
 
 ular beauty, and then notably among the larger pieces, 
 the famous Augustian Apotheosis, where Augustus is 
 crowning Roma when placed among the Gods, a piece 
 of cameo work almost a foot long, and exquisite in all 
 its details. Also a very fine Ptolemaus Philadelphus and 
 Arsinoe. Agate work of all description is here, salvers 
 and jewel boxes, etc., and among the most interesting 
 specimens historically, a bronze plate containing a de- 
 cree of the Roman Senate (186 B.C.), and the seal ring 
 of the great Goth, Alaric. The collection fills only four 
 or five small rooms, but must be very valuable, though 
 small in area. I walked through the Hof Garten awhile 
 to rest my eyes, examined the splendid statues of the 
 little but terrible Prince Eugene, and of the Archduke 
 Charles, with banner in hand, commemorative of the 
 famous moment in the battle of Aspern, at which he 
 renewed the courage of his troops and withstood the 
 terrible onslaught of the French troops that cost Napo- 
 leon his brave Lannes. Both statues, colossal riding fig- 
 ures on broad stone foundations, the latter with outer 
 military groups, are models by Fernbarn. 
 
 "From here I went to the Schbnborn Palais, where a 
 small collection of pictures is open to the public, but 
 after ascending the broad staircase and trying all doors, 
 I found admittance nowhere, and then went over into 
 the yosefstadt opposite the growing Rathhaus, where 
 the Czernin Palais is, and where a similar programme 
 had been offered. Here I was more successful, and spent 
 a very pleasant hour among the three hundred pictures,
 
 [74] 
 
 almost all small, looking for treasures. It is not a remark- 
 able collection but, considering that it is the work of a 
 single family, good enough, and in certain respects very 
 important; e.g. they have here Murillo's Christ on the 
 Cross, by all odds the best work of the genial Spaniard 
 that I have seen, a mine of pathos and deep feeling. Ru- 
 bens and Van Dyck give us some good portraits, as well 
 as a charming Cupid, by the latter. Rembrandt is ac- 
 credited with a large Abendunterhaltung Seiner Familie, 
 which, if genuine, is not in his best style. A portrait by 
 Velasquez, always interesting, but subject to the same 
 criticism. Two good Doges by Titian and Tintoretto 
 some charming miniature genre pictures from the Hol- 
 landers; i.e. Spiel gesellschaft (splendid expression), by 
 Douw, larger ones by Ryckaert Peasants in a Tavern 
 and Musical Entertainment. Moretto, Sassoferrato,and 
 PalmaVecchio give us excellent Holy Families, particu- 
 larly the last, who gives us his same models for Madonnas 
 and Graces and females of all descriptions. A portrait by 
 Durer, a school that I can always distinguish without as 
 yet knowing the reason why, and the first picture of 
 LeBrun's that I have seen,a charmingVenus and Cupid. 
 Some of the jolly little sketches of Brouwer and Ostade, 
 to which I had become accustomed in Dresden, and 
 these make up about all that makes a visit to the palace 
 worth the while, even for one with plenty of leisure like 
 myself. 
 
 "Tuesday, May 29/77. After consulting my guide- 
 book, I concluded to devote today to the Belvedere,
 
 [75] 
 
 which in one division contains Viennese Gallery. The 
 day was when the thought of visiting the Viennese Gal- 
 lery would have made my heart flutter, and even today, 
 the chance of continuing my art studies, which I flatter 
 myself made a good long first step in Dresden, gave me 
 a good deal of pleasure. At mysuggestion, my landlady 
 supplied me with breakfast, and the large pot of good 
 hot coffee served in the neatest possible way, sent me ofF 
 in good spirits. After a good half hour's hard walk, I 
 found myself in Wieden, where the Belvedere, the old 
 palace of the Duke of Savoy and its beautiful garden, is. 
 The fine park, with terraced walks and arbors built up 
 of high hedges, lies upon a small hill, which gives you 
 a good view of the enormously spreadout city, endless 
 steeples, among which, of course, the Stephaus Thurm 
 stands out distinct. The park contains a so called upper 
 and lower palace, the former, holding the gallery, the 
 latter, the Ambraser and Antiquities. To the former, I 
 directed my steps, found it in shape greatly resembling 
 the Dresden Museum, though in style, more nearly that 
 of the Zteiffgr,with the endless carving and sculptur- 
 ing that distinguishes the Rococo of the builder's period. 
 In the vestibule, statues of the Prince and of Charles VI, 
 the cotemporary emperor and friend, and busts on ped- 
 estals of Maria Theresa, her husband called Francis I, 
 allegorical statues and winged horses and sphinxes at 
 both entrances and the vestibules, as indeed all the halls, 
 richly decorated and frescoed, brighter than but hardly 
 as beautiful as Semper's Museum.
 
 [76] 
 
 "At the opening hour, I was ready to present myself to 
 the fifteen hundred pictures which make up this collec- 
 tion, if not so large as the Dresden one, perhaps more 
 carefully selected,and in the Venetian School and the Ru- 
 bens and Van Dyck branches of the Netherland School 
 unequaled. Many painters, though I have not yet half 
 finished the collection, have presented themselves to me 
 in an entirely different light, and strong as Titian is, for 
 instance, in Dresden, he has shown a half dozen different 
 sides here that are not to be found there, and Rubens 
 confirms the great opinion I had formed of him, by even 
 more daring conceptions in every field of painting, re- 
 ligious, mythical, allegorical, and character. But it will 
 be more satisfactory to handle our artists in detail, as 
 they disclose themselves in a survey of the walls. 
 
 "I commence with the Italian School, which in the 
 main, I have already examined. Among the Venetians, 
 I have for the first time become reconciled to Palma 
 Giovine, and have increased my love for Palma Vecchio. 
 A Mourning over the Dead Body of Jesus, by the former, 
 has brought about the change that the beauty of its fig- 
 ures, and the deep feeling they express, deserve. The lat- 
 ter has a host of gems here, among which his Heimsu- 
 chung Maria's, and a lovely Madonna. Tintoretto, too, 
 for the first time, has taken hold of my affections with 
 real strength, and by theunusuallylarge collection of por- 
 traits here (of which in all schools the gallery is particu- 
 larly rich) rivals even Titian in strength and clearness of 
 delineation. Padovanino takes high rank from his ex-
 
 [77] 
 
 ceptionally fine execution of a common enough subject, 
 the Adulteress before Christ, and Moretto's Justina is 
 j ustly regarded as one of the gems of the Belvedere. I men- 
 tion Giorgione's Land Surveyors from the East, more for 
 its celebrity than the striking impression it made upon 
 me,while I made the pleasing acquaintance of Vivarino, 
 an old painter, in a really fine altar piece on the goldback- 
 ground not uncommon early in the 1 5th century. Bor- 
 done is numerously represented,but his pictures,in some 
 striking particular, always leave a gap. I am not willing 
 to yield Paul Veronese to Titian, but so far as this gallery 
 offers a chance to judge, he lags far behind, and Titian 
 in one picture after the other, in portrait and in saint, in 
 allegory and in mythology, evinces the same power and 
 beauty and breadth of conception. I do not propose to 
 dwell on the many portraits that delighted me. Of the 
 others,a lovely allegorical picture of quiet love is perfect- 
 ly charming in its peaceful beauty, and forms a splendid 
 set-ofF to the Holy Family and the beautiful Ecce Homo, 
 both breathing the purest religious sentiment and purity. 
 In this latter field, particularly, I was surprised to find 
 him so great. Titian's strength in this gallery corresponds 
 to Veronese's in the Dresden,although his Annunciation, 
 Christ and Adulteress, Christ and the Samaritan, Christ 
 and the SickWoman, Madonna with Catherine and Bar- 
 bara (a splendid picture and for me a charming subject 
 at all times), excited the enthusiasm that is sure to fol- 
 low when I see the great Venetian at his best. He is a 
 great favorite with me.
 
 [78] 
 
 "ROMAN SCHOOL. 
 
 "Here we have an original Raphael, and of course, 
 this interested me most. It is the so called Madonna im 
 Grunen, and while it possesses many attractive features, 
 particularly the grace and smoothness that distinguishes 
 this school, it hardly seems to come from the same hand 
 that painted the Sixtine Madonna. A superior produc- 
 tion, once attributed to him, is the Margaret by Guilio 
 Romano, and the gem of this room, so bright and fresh 
 and beautiful as one hardly expects to find it in so obscure 
 a name. Two excellent Madonnas and Saints, by Peru- 
 gino, one by Baldi, a great picture by Maratta, Jesus Be- 
 moaning the Death of Joseph, and some good work by 
 Raphael Mengs also deserve special mention. And two 
 battle scenes, small but very powerful, made up for the 
 disappointment with Salvator Rosa's work in Dresden 
 that I had experienced. 
 
 "This room leads into a splendid cabinet with beau- 
 tiful busts of Francis I and Francis Joseph, and contains 
 the famous large, richly decorated iron album that was 
 presented to the Emperor in 1 8 7 3, by the city,in celebra- 
 tion of the 26th anniversary of his ascending the throne. 
 
 "FLORENTINE SCHOOL. 
 
 " Here, of course, we look with greatest interest for 
 da Vinci, of whom there are no originals, and del Sarto, 
 who gives us several, none of which pleased me, al- 
 though I believe connoisseurs lay great stress upon his 
 Pieta, the technical name for the adoration paid to the
 
 [79] 
 
 dead body of Christ, taken from the Cross. Carlo Dolce, 
 to be sure, is another of the stars of first magnitude of 
 his school, and champions his reputation to the full by 
 his Madonna with the Child. Fra Bartolomeo also de- 
 serves kinder treatment by virtue of his Presentation in 
 the Temple, which breathes a spirit of quiet piety in 
 charming style (1506). Two pictures of Gentileschi, 
 pretentious, though not overstepping his abilities, and 
 one by Raibotini (Bolognese),also stand out from even 
 the general excellence. 
 
 "BOLOGNESE AND LOMBARD SCHOOLS. 
 
 "Correggio offers very little, his Rape of Ganymede, 
 a single exception perhaps. Unfortunately, his Jupiter 
 and lo was missing. I do not consider his portraits mas- 
 terpieces.The Caraccis, too, lag behind here,if we except 
 Lodovico's fine Ven us and Amor, the former particularly, 
 a very model of a Goddess of Love. Guido Reni's Bap- 
 tism of Christ is the finest in his collection, while Ci- 
 gnani proves that my liking acquired for him through 
 his Joseph and Potiphar is not accidental. His Madonna 
 here is a great beauty. The greatest attraction in this 
 room, however, is offered by Parmigiano's work, which 
 in the well known Amor the Bowmaker, and the splen- 
 did portrait of the Florentine general Baglione would 
 alone repay a visit to the gallery. Procaccini's Pieta will 
 take almost equal rank. Dossi and Guercino lag behind. 
 
 "SPANISH SCHOOL. 
 "The next room contained many a pleasant surprise
 
 [8o] 
 
 for me, and in the frequency with which I found the 
 name of Velasquez, anticipated a treat that did not fail 
 me. I had as yet seen nothing but single portraits of him, 
 and some indeed, notably the one in Boston, superior to 
 these, but then the larger groups here of which the 
 most delightful is his own family, whose many interest- 
 ing faces must have afforded him a task just suited to 
 his tastes. Then, too, the charming little Infanta, whose 
 quaint but rich costumes receive an accuracy in the por- 
 trayal of the minutest details, which must satisfy even 
 the most exacting marchande de modes. His Idiot is a very 
 king ofnon compos mentis. Among the others, Bonifazio's 
 two groups of saints are good, and Luca Giordana's Ex- 
 pulsion of the Rebellious Angels is a masterpiece, and 
 the main figure, Michael, a magnificent conception ri- 
 valing decidedly even the beautiful one of Raphael's, 
 with which, as an engraving, we are all familiar. 
 
 "I am now prepared to begin with the great collec- 
 tion from the 
 
 "NETHERLAND SCHOOL. 
 
 "The rooms are divided into seven, called respectively 
 the Rembrandt, Landscape, Van Dyck, Two Rubens, 
 Teniers, and then Miscellaneous. 
 
 "Most of the Rembrandts are portraits, the best per- 
 haps, that of his mother and those of himself at different 
 ages, and indeed, both here and in Dresden, I got the 
 notion that he is more successful in painting himself and 
 his beautiful wives than any others. Two large pictures
 
 [Si] 
 
 by JanVan Eyck and Jordaens are here, Dutch Fish Mar- 
 kets, and one in particular which represents an alterca- 
 tion about a bargain is splendidly painted. The idea 
 occurs to me here that while this collection is very strong 
 in this school, it is not so much so from the number of 
 its paintings as from the importance of most of them, 
 which excellently point out its prominent features and 
 give us, particularly with Van Dyck and Rubens, some 
 of its greatest paintings without including the many art- 
 ists and the growth of each that makes the Dresden 
 Gallery so strong in this department. Strong portraits by 
 Hoogstraeten and Fluich, one excellent poultry picture 
 byHondekaeter, who seems to represent in this branch 
 of natural history the place that De Heem and Mignon 
 do in flowers. Ian Fyt also deserves praise for a good pic- 
 ture of animals disturbing a breakfast and caught in the 
 act by a beautiful youth. 
 
 "The landscape room gives us some very pretentious 
 pictures by Artois, some excellent marine pictures and 
 fights, by Backhuysen, and Bonaventura Peters and some 
 small landscapes by Ruysdael, not equal to his best, but 
 deserving mention as coming from so great a master. Of 
 course I have reference to the great Jacob, the younger, 
 whose Jewish Cemetery, among others, had excited my 
 enthusiasm in Dresden. 
 
 "I was glad to get to Van Dyck, and first of all, must 
 say of him what I said of Titian: I was surprised to find 
 him so successful in the religious pictures, which have 
 a subdued feeling of piety which one would think im-
 
 [82] 
 
 possible in any Dutchman of his period, none the less, 
 in him. His Madonna and Saints,Christ on the Cross, and 
 Christ Derided, could hardly be spared to appreciate the 
 versatility of his genius. His portraits are numerous, and 
 of that same excellence, which long ago made me pre- 
 fer him in that respect, even to his two great rivals, Rem- 
 brandt and Rubens. A good word for Crayen's Mary on 
 the Throne receiving Homage, and we are ready for 
 Rubens. 
 
 "The first of the two salons that contain his best pic- 
 tures, is filled with but a few enormous affairs, which, 
 without regard for details in their general effect, whether 
 breathing horror, love, or religious fervor, inspire one 
 with admiration the conception is so lofty, and even 
 if on closer examination I did not find every face and 
 figure just to my taste, I cannot deny the general pleas- 
 ure that they gave me. The larger ones are Loyola Cur- 
 ing those Possessed of the Devil, Ascension of Mary, and 
 Xavier Preaching enormous pictures; a splendid Am- 
 brosius Refusing Theodosius Admission into the Milan- 
 ese Church, Meleager and Atalanta Killing the Calydo- 
 nian Boar, Scene from the Decameron, and perhaps the 
 best of all, the Four Quarters of the Globe, illustrated by 
 allegorical representations of their largest rivers: Ganges, 
 Nile, Danube, and Amazon, in which it would be hard to 
 tell which pleased me best, the beauty of the intellectual 
 branch, the conception, or the skill and vigor of the me- 
 chanical execution. Of his pictures in the next room, 
 I liked his Madonna with four female saints, and St.
 
 [83] 
 
 Ildephon with side figures of the Archduke Albrecht, 
 and his wife, rendering homage, best among the por- 
 traits most noteworthy, a nude figure of his second wife, 
 Helene Formann, a veritable model. 
 
 "Two smaller rooms contain a great assortment of 
 mainly cabinet pictures, with fair samples of that school 
 of genre, which we maysay such masters as Douw,Metsu, 
 Teniers, Ostade, Brouwer,Van Mieries, Ferburg, Net- 
 scher,Ryckaert,and that class, have originated. Particu- 
 larly, in these miniature sketches, do they often give us 
 the most delightful incidents of life. In addition to works 
 by many of these that are found in this little room, spe- 
 cial stress should be laid on a head of a man and one 
 of a woman, portraits, I believe, which may verily be 
 called the perfection of painting, leaving nothing to be 
 wished for, and a very microscopical minuteness of de- 
 tail. I have seen nothing finer from any hand in any 
 school. They are by Balthazar Denner. Among the fruits 
 and flowers, Huysum and De Heem seem to offer us the 
 best. Schalpen gives us a charming little woman with 
 a candle. 
 
 "In Teniers' salon (of course I am referring to the 
 younger), the most remarkable work is a picture of the 
 gallery of Archduke Leopold Wilhelm,DutchStadthalt- 
 er (whose collection, with that of Rudolph II, formed 
 the nucleus for this one), with miniature copies of his 
 pictures, most of them here, and wonderfully well repro- 
 duced, an Abraham's Sacrifice, a peasant wedding, and a 
 scene in Brussels, in which the aforesaid Archduke be-
 
 [84] 
 
 fore a great crowd of people is presented with a bow for 
 good shooting in a contest. Ryckaert gives us two ex- 
 cellent scenes from peasant life in Holland. Jan Steen 
 also a good one and Cornelius Schut a fine Hero over 
 the Dead Body of Leander. The next and last of the sa- 
 lons on this etage, deserves special mention only because 
 of the jolly festival of the Eohner Konig y by Jordaens, in 
 which every figure is an illustration of its adage, Nil simi- 
 lius insano quam ebrinis, and the Tavern, by Craesbecke, 
 in the same spirit, and much ability. It was now near 
 the closing hour, and I reserved the second story for an- 
 other day, and started home in the almost tropical sun, 
 that made the air seem to breathe fire. 
 
 " I went down the Rennweg, passed the Militar Sa?n- 
 me/znd Transport Haus opposite the palace, turned over 
 into the Augustiner Platz, by the convent and church, 
 into the Graben, bought some cigars, which are dearer 
 and poorer here than in Germany, from the monopoly 
 and heavy duty, and then took the usual route home, and 
 for three hours kept to my sofa, too tired to sleep and too 
 sore to move. 
 
 "Wednesday, May 29/77. I concluded to continue 
 my work at the Belvedere, and was promptly on the spot, 
 though in poor condition for the work. I commenced 
 with the second etage in the 
 
 "ALTDEUTSCH UND ALTNlEDERLANDISCHE ScHULEN. 
 
 "It is noticeable here that a great many paintings, 
 particularly German, do not give us the names of their
 
 [85] 
 
 creators, and I can only explain this with that peculiar- 
 ity of the middle ages by which work (and most of these 
 are altar pieces and ornaments) was done by a guild or 
 school and not by individuals, and there is no telling but 
 what many hands and heads may have been combined 
 to produce what there is here. This suggestion is en- 
 tirely original, and I give it for what it may be worth. 
 Most prominent among the workers whose names are 
 here, are A. Durer, Holbein, the Prague painters,Theo- 
 dorich, and Mutina Amberger, van der Weyden, the 
 two Van Eycks, the two Massys, and Harleem. After 
 them come those whose schools belong to a class with 
 which we are more familar. Durer's masterpiece is here, 
 the first large picture by him that I have seen, represent- 
 ing theTrinity,and mainly pleasing, I fear, as in the case 
 of many other old masters, because we expect so little 
 and examine him by a different standard than we do one 
 of the present day who has the benefit of the best schools 
 and models.Though even with the strictest criticism,one 
 must admit, I think, that the present generation, while 
 perhaps the most fecund, is hardly the most successful 
 in the history of painting. We respect the 1 6th and i yth 
 centuries for something else than age. 
 
 "Durer's Slaughter of the Christians under the Per- 
 sian Sapor II, is also famous, but I pass over the num- 
 erous supply, both of his works and the Cranachs, that 
 the collection possesses, many of which are interesting 
 only by the side of better ones that the same masters 
 have given us. Holbein is well represented by portraits,
 
 [86] 
 
 not of uniform excellence by any means, but his John 
 Chambers and DerichTybis in his best style. Memling 
 and Amberger stand out prominently, and van derWey- 
 den gives us two miniature pictures: Madonna andChild, 
 and Catherine, which are absolutely beautiful. Of the 
 Massys' work the most clever is quite a large picture by 
 the less eel ebrated,Johann, subject like almost all here 
 religious and historical only, as the artists of the Church 
 have been involved. Mabuse gives us a good little Ma- 
 donna. 
 
 "In the third room are some excellent portraits by 
 Franz and Peter Pombus, and Anton Moor, some unusu- 
 ally good work by Franz Francken, especially his Croesus 
 Showing Solon his Treasures, and some stiffold pictures 
 from life in the Netherlands, by Peter Brueghel. Some 
 large landscapes by Lucas Van Valkenburgh are only 
 large. 
 
 "The next room and the last of this collection gives 
 us more modern pictures, and while their moral tone 
 is an exceedingly low one, many of them have consid- 
 erable merit, particularly those of Josef Heinz, while 
 John Achen, Joach von Sandrat, and Spranger often rise 
 to strong performances. 
 
 " From here I went into the modern school, some hun- 
 dred and fifty pictures, mostly by Austrian artists of the 
 last fifty years, in whom a love of strong coloring seems 
 to predominate, with very few other strong features. It 
 is interesting to note that most of the work seems to be 
 done in Munich, Rome,Paris,etc.,indicating,and I be-
 
 lieve correctly, that in modern art, Vienna has scarcely 
 yet completed her Parthenon. 
 
 "In the first room two large Angelica Kaufmanns, 
 which attracted me only by the name, a good portrait of 
 the Archduke Leopold, dressed as knight in theVienna 
 winter riding school, by Amerling, a good knight in jail 
 (I have not traced the incident to its historical place), 
 by Leopold Schulz, and three noteworthy pictures by 
 KrafFt, the two larger ones representing the departure 
 from and return home of a landwehr y beautifully con- 
 ceived, finely colored, but wanting in vigor of execu- 
 tion. The faces do not disclose the subject; that is left to 
 the surroundings. The other, however, a fight between 
 Austrians and Turks for the possession of a bridge, cor- 
 rects this latter fault, and retains the virtues of the other 
 two. 
 
 "The next room showed me my first picture of Ma- 
 kart's: 'I am coming, Romeo,' in which the latter on 
 his awakening finds that Juliet has killed herself, a fine 
 picture certainly, and full of poetry, though sometimes 
 lacking strength. A large black picture by Schnorr, of 
 Carolsfeld, of Faust Receiving Mephisto at his Studies 
 is good, and an Apotheosis of Francis I between two 
 angels, one carrying the olive branch, the other, the lau- 
 rel wreath, by Fuger, is very beautiful. A pretty little 
 landscape by Pausinger, with deer, representing the in- 
 ner part of a forest, and L. Russ' Storming of the Lowe/ 
 Bashon by the Turks, are here among others by Fried- 
 lander, Blaas, Schone, etc., less praiseworthy.
 
 [88] 
 
 "In the third salon, I give the preference to L'Alle- 
 mand's Battle at Znaim, a pretty little picture of a dog 
 watching a sleeping babe, by Felix, two fine landscapes 
 by Haushofer and Buhlmayer, the latter representing a 
 drove of cattle returning in the 'dusk of evening 'from 
 pasturage,and finally, Duke Frederich I Vshowing him- 
 self to the enthusiastic Tyrolese, a strong picture by 
 Schem. 
 
 "In the last of the rooms, one cannot avoid the im- 
 posing picture of Canon's, Die Loge Johannes, whose 
 finest feature is his Moses, evidently inspired by the 
 sculpture of Angelo's. Equally so with Eugerth's pic- 
 ture of the seizure of Manfred's wife and children, by 
 order of Charles of Savoy, which does full justice to the 
 most beautiful woman and children of the most beautiful 
 couple of that day, and inspires the children with the 
 knightly chivalry for which the father was noted, re- 
 minding one of brave little MacdufF, in Macbeth, who 
 was going to champion his mother against the attacks 
 of the tyrant's assassins. Decker gives us two pretty genres 
 in pastel, Ruben a fine battle picture, and Rahl(a strong 
 man among the Austrian painters) a splendid Kriem- 
 hilde Swearing Vengeance against Hagen over the Dead 
 Body of Siegfried. While little of a very high character 
 had been offered me here, I had been greatly relieved 
 by the brightness of this portion of the collection, and 
 the decided change of subjects that the modern school 
 offers, and was now prepared to return to older coun- 
 tries, and finish the gallery. I had sandwiched wisely,
 
 [ 8 9] 
 
 and my appetite was whetted for what remained of the 
 old masters in the Erdgeschloss. 
 
 "To the left of the entrance that I have already de- 
 scribed, we find more Italian pictures of all ages and 
 schools, mostly not worthy of a close examination, but 
 containing however among them some fairVeroneses 
 and Titians, etc., a splendid Mary and Joseph with child 
 embracing a cross, by Padoranino, the onty real fine 
 Annibale Caracci in the collection, a Venus and Adonis 
 (why could not these Italian painters paint their Madon- 
 nas as beautiful as theirVenuses?),and then the Jupiter 
 and lo of Correggio's that I had mourned as missing. 
 If it did not reconcile me to Correggio's reputation, I 
 found it the best evidence here of the skill attributed to 
 him, and really a graceful picture of Jupiter; nothing is 
 visible except an indistinct head in the clouds gently 
 kissing lo. As I proceeded, I found a good Madonna by 
 Cignaroli, a great deal of mediocre work by Luca Gior- 
 dano, a beautiful Agnus Det, St. John the Baptist as child, 
 by Murillo, being a lamb led by Christ child, a most ten- 
 der picture, and a strong Samson and Delilah by Van 
 Dyck. Opposite the hall a small collection of miscel- 
 laneous Dutchmen of which the best is some work by 
 Snyders,who in the painting of boar and fox hunts by 
 dogs, seems most successful, and then two large pictures 
 by Jansens, Diana representing Night and Apollo, Day, 
 both surrounded by a ring of beautiful little angels the 
 latter picture, however, decidedly the better. A series of 
 Aquarellen pictures by Moritzvon Schwind are also here,
 
 [90] 
 
 telling the sad story of Melusina of Lusignan, and only 
 made interesting by their subject. With a word for the 
 twelve or fifteen pieces of sculpture, contained in the 
 rotundas, I shall have done with the Upper Belvedere. 
 These embrace among others, specimens by Ralph Don- 
 ner,Schaller,Marchesi,Kessling,Kalhsmann,and others, 
 and include some very pretty pieces. 
 
 " I am not overwhelmed at all by the sense of the great- 
 ness of this collection, but it possesses much that is of 
 importance to the student, has certainly been of great 
 assistance to me, in forming more accurate notions of 
 what is beautiful and strong, and in certain respects ; viz., 
 Titian, Velasquez, Rubens, Van Dyck, and the very old 
 schools, is exceptionally strong. The style of exhibition 
 is similar to the one in Dresden, each picture bearing the 
 name of the master, when known, with the date of his 
 birth and death. I felt when I returned home, as if I had 
 concluded a great task and almost relieved to think that 
 in spite of the sad condition of my eyes, I was enabled 
 to prosecute it to completion. 
 
 "PROCESSION AND MASS. 
 
 "Thursday, May 3 1 ,'77.Today is the last of the month 
 of May, and the Frohnleichnamsfest, a great day in all 
 Catholics' country and particularly in Vienna, and I was 
 advised on all hands to go and see the great procession. 
 Tribunes have been built all about the Stephans Platz 
 seats and standing room are sold at high prices and as 
 early as four in the morning the people are crowding
 
 to get a good place to see the show. I went to the P/afz 
 about y:30,was fortunate enough to get standing room, 
 by paying 50 kr. to one of the men who make capital out 
 of the religious fervor of the Catholics, and saw every- 
 thing to my heart's content. 
 
 "The show consists of a great procession from the 
 StephansKtrche, after the celebration of mass, which can 
 be attended only by those who take part in the proces- 
 sion, that is the priests from the different churches in 
 their vestments, the different orders of monks, and ban- 
 ners and insignia, then the 'Magistrat and Gemeinde ' of 
 the city in court costume, then the various * Rathe of the 
 Empire' the nobility, after whom followed the Arch- 
 bishop walking under the canopy ,who took precedence 
 of the Emperor who walked behind with the Arch- 
 dukes and the Ministry, among whom I noticed An- 
 drassy in his brilliant dress of the Hungarian nobili- 
 ty. The Empress usually attends but was in Ischl this 
 time. Behind the Emperor came a detachment of the 
 Hungarian guard, magnificently equipped and mount- 
 ed and then some Austrian cuirassiers and infantry ,who 
 brought up the rear. Everybody of course appeared at 
 his best, and the most brilliant costumes and breasts full 
 of decorations abounded. The line of march was enclosed 
 by military and police the whole way, and the walk a 
 special one for the occasion, made of boards strewn with 
 leaves. All but the military walked and walked bare- 
 headed, although the march was long enough to include 
 the Graben, Kohlmarkt, Karntner Gasse, and back to the
 
 [92] 
 
 church again, where the priests disbanded to their vari- 
 ous churches to perform the service of the day, and the 
 court in splendid equipages drove to their palaces. The 
 King with his brother Ludwig Victor rode in a richly 
 gilded coach drawn by eight white horses,with outriders, 
 and other members of the family in three other coaches 
 with six horses each. The richer nobles too gave us some 
 brilliant teams. During the procession of course bands 
 played, heralds constantly blew their trumpets, church 
 bells were tolling, and certainly Vienna had put on her 
 holiday attire. The procession was not remarkable so 
 much for its size as for its brilliancy, but that recalled 
 the splendor of royal pageants in the middle ages and 
 dim visions of Charles V, Francis, and Henry VIII, and 
 the Field of the Cloth of Gold. Not the least interesting 
 feature of the occasion, was the enormous mass of peo- 
 ple that from every part of city and suburb poured into 
 this neighborhood. For an hour after the procession had 
 ceased the streets were scarcely passable with those re- 
 turning and indeed all day long such of the more popu- 
 lar resorts, as thePraterRing and Volks Garten, are a con- 
 stant mass. Theatres all and stores very generally closed. 
 "In the evening I went into town to hear mass cele- 
 brated in the Universita? s Kirche, and though the eve- 
 ning was balmy and pleasant, it was all I could do to 
 crowd my way to the inside of the church, and in bear- 
 ing the constant pressure of the throng, get an occa- 
 sional glimpse through the columns at the beautiful 
 church now splendidly decorated and illuminated and
 
 [93] 
 
 hear something of the mass, not known to me but very 
 fine and well sung and to great effect with orchestral 
 and organ accompaniment. An Agnus Dei with violin 
 obligato in the twilight of the evening and in the midst 
 of a most passionate service and worshippers, and a Gloria 
 supported by organ and cornets, is as fine a treat as I ever 
 wish to enjoy. The effect was immense. From the style I 
 imagine the mass was by Haydn. The sermon laid great 
 stress on the necessity of strong intervention with Mary, 
 for the Or a pro Nobis, and one may get some idea of the 
 zeal of these Viennese when even these exacting priests 
 admit that they are well satisfied with what their hear- 
 ers have offered in this respect. Strange to say, Vienna 
 is hardly an improvement on Prague. By seven, I was 
 prepared to improve the fine evening by a walk through 
 the Ring and Volks Garten, where Eduard Strauss was 
 directing a concert from which I caught only a few dis- 
 tant strains, and then went home, leaving the streets full 
 of life and happy faces, foppish dandies and giddy-head- 
 ed girls,with every degree of beauty and propriety from 
 o to infinity. 
 
 " LOWER BELVEDERE. 
 
 "Friday, June 1/76. Today my objective point was 
 the Lower Belvedere. I selected a different route this 
 time, passed over the Elizabeth Bridge from the Ring, 
 which is crowned by eight statues, prominent rulers of 
 the early dukedom as well as men distinguished for artis- 
 tic work, passed out of the city between the Obst Markt
 
 [94] 
 
 and Wieden, where the Emangelische Schule, the Polytech- 
 nicum, and Karl's Kirche form a long square, with a park 
 between it and the Wien, of which this morning, hardly 
 aught was visible but its stony bed. A glance into the 
 church, beautiful of course and unique, because of its 
 high broad cupola service in progress as it is in Vienna, 
 in all churches, and at all times, then a peep at the statue 
 of Resul, the inventor of the screw, which stands in the 
 park, and is also a model by Fernborn, then over into 
 the Rennwegpast the Mi/itarSamme/znd Transport Haus, 
 and on the same street the lower entrance to the Belve- 
 dere which was my destination. Here are the Antiqui- 
 ties, the Egyptian, and the Ambraser collections, and 
 with the former I promptly set to work, as it is the first 
 to meet you as you enter. 
 
 "ANTIKEN SAMMLUNG. 
 
 "This consists mainly of busts, mosaics, reliefs, arms, 
 and domestic utensils, which have been found in excava- 
 tions made in one place or another, covering a period of 
 perhaps three to four thousand years. Of the busts most 
 are those of Roman Emperors, generals and their wives, 
 and with the exception of but few, of surpassing beauty. 
 Their main interest to me consisted in endeavoring to 
 find in their faces some expression of the character with 
 which history has stamped them, and even that task at 
 the outset looks ungrateful when we think how even at 
 the present day our statues, instead of showing us the in- 
 ner life and character of their subjects, only endeavor to
 
 [95] 
 
 approximate the models of gods and heroes that the 
 ancients have given us. To be sure, the ideal beauty re- 
 mains, and when the work is artistic I can enjoy it as 
 I would a fine Zeus or Venus when that fails you are 
 groping in the dark. A peculiar feature that I had not 
 noticed before on any sculptures, I found here occasion- 
 ally, in the movable wig which is simply rested on the 
 head and like a wig can be removed. In addition to these 
 busts, they have a Grecian tombstone or two, a bas-relief 
 of a figure with the inscription of time of birth and 
 death. Some splendid specimens of large black granite 
 Egyptian sarcophagi, whose inside and outside are one 
 mass of hieroglyphics and excellently well preserved. 
 The most famous one is the so called Fugger Sarcoph- 
 agus because found by Graf Fugger near Ephesus and 
 presented by him to the museum. Its four sides are or- 
 namented by reliefs illustrating the Battle of the Ama- 
 zons and though somewhat broken and cracked presents 
 a splendid array of figures. A large circular fish dish of 
 stone too, found in Liesa, with a diameter of perhaps four 
 feet. Among the full statues I ought to emphasize a beau- 
 tiful little Iris in black marble (face, arms, and nether 
 limbs white), a Mercury as orator, and a Euterpe, with 
 fragments of arms, bodies, and heads, that recall the grace 
 of a Venus di Milo, and an Apollo Belvedere. Then too, 
 we have numerous tablets with Latin inscriptions point- 
 ing to periods of Germanic and Gallic invasion relics 
 of a soldier's equipage found in graves in Germany urns 
 that contained the ashes of the dead,some like boxes with
 
 [96] 
 
 close fitting covers,a mummy of the Sacred Bull of Egypt 
 with his trappings (Apis), and finally some collections of 
 Mexican antiquities, mainly from the time of the Az- 
 tecssmall images, crude earthenware, etc., of which I 
 had seen enough for my heart's content in Washington. 
 
 "AMBRASER SAMMLUNG. 
 
 "Here in seven rooms is a collection of arms and mili- 
 tary costumes and thus far reminding one of the Dres- 
 den historical collections though in most respects hardly 
 its equal, and also specimens of artistic work in all de- 
 partments, indeed the line does not seem to be closely 
 drawn anywhere, and I have not found out what the 
 word Ambraser means. 
 
 "The first rooms contain complete coats of arms as 
 they were worn by almost all monarchs and generals 
 from the time of the founder Duke Ferdinand of Tyrol 
 (i 595) down to the 1 8th and present centuries. Many 
 of them are of course richly ornamented with gold and 
 silver and precious stones, but I was more interested in 
 reading the names that were appended to them than in 
 examining them in detail Dresden had glutted me in 
 that respect; a fac-simile of Ferdinand's attendant eight 
 feet high der Grosse Bauer von 'Trent is given you and one 
 sees that even churchmen, archbishops, and cardinals 
 laid aside the crooked staff at times for the shirt of mail 
 and long sword. Even the arms and helmet of the Grand 
 Vizier Kara Mustopha, who paid with his life the raising 
 of the siege of Vienna which illustrates the policy of
 
 . '[97] 
 
 the Turkish government even of today. Its servants are 
 punished or rewarded only as defeat or victory result 
 from their work. There is no other question to be con- 
 sidered by those before whom their deeds are judged. 
 So too the banner and arms of the great commander 
 of the peasants, Stephan Fadinger, in their wars against 
 the nobles and their institution, feudalism; and perhaps 
 most interesting because so rare in these parts, the battle 
 axe of the great Osted Montezuma, Alexander Far- 
 nese,the terrible foe of the Netherlanders, stands before 
 you just as he did before his bloody Spaniards, when urg- 
 ing them on to their butchery. 
 
 "I pass over the arms and munitions of war that pre- 
 sented no features not already commented upon in these 
 pages, and come to the fourth room where we find the 
 four walls filled with portraits not only of the House of 
 Hapsburg and all its ramifications with a curious main 
 branch and trunks but also all the mere men and women 
 of the 1 5th and i6th centuries, 141 small pictures in 
 all not many of them of great artistic worth. In the 
 center of the room in three large glass cases, magnif- 
 icent gold embroideries (Burgundian) for altar orna- 
 mentations, and originally intended for the Order of the 
 Golden Fleece. The figures in them remind one of the 
 Van Eyck paintings; one cannot more highly compli- 
 ment the quality of the work than to admit that they 
 stand out in all their minuteness with the same distinct- 
 ness and clearness as these paintings of which they re- 
 mind us.
 
 "We now move into a quite different kind of exhibi- 
 tionand at the very door, little as I expected to find 
 them, taxidermist specimens of natural history also, 
 and one of the most interesting objects here, the antlers 
 of a deer, with twenty-two extremities of a trunk so en- 
 twined in the trunk of an oak as to leave one no other 
 conclusion than that the oak had grown around it! 
 
 "We found too, in the same room, fine specimens of 
 coral, masterpieces of minute stone and wood work, as 
 also carvings and inlaid ivory work, without mention- 
 ing the two different specimens that exhibit wonderful 
 skill the three specimens of Albert Colin, two battle 
 scenes and the Rape of the Sabines are of too surpass- 
 ing excellence to be passed over without special notice 
 and seem to indicate that in the middle ages the knife 
 and chisel were handled much more skilfully than the 
 brush. Fine mosaics, wax and horn work, with good 
 specimens of enameling,faience,and glass painting make 
 up this antiquarian cabinet, and make it clear enough 
 that from 1400 to 1900 something else than fighting 
 occupied the attention of the world. To make thisjack- 
 of-all-trades sort of room complete, we have even a small 
 but very interesting collection of musical, mathematical, 
 and astronomical instruments, and if there be any one 
 who does not find something here to appeal to his sense 
 of pleasure, we may fairly conclude that it is not in his 
 nature to be pleased. The last room continues the ex- 
 hibition of arms and quaint military costumes, drinking 
 utensils of all materials from an ostrich egg to a ram's
 
 [99] 
 
 horn, and finally a small collection of pictures in which 
 Veronese, Rosa, Cranach,and Durer figure though not 
 at their best. It is curious to notice how these workers 
 in cloth, wood, stone, porcelain, etc., etc., occasionally 
 take as models the more important paintings of their 
 day, and a source of constant surprises is found for you 
 in there being confronted with old friends where you 
 do not expect to meet them. This applies to steel en- 
 gravings as well and I am constantly devouring the show 
 windows in the hope of finding copies of my favorites 
 in Dresden and the Belvedere. 
 
 "The so called Egyptian collection is small, and so 
 to be done with the whole Belvedere I finished that be- 
 fore leaving. It consists of mummies of man and beast, 
 numerous small idols of all materials, probably used by 
 different people in their own houses, wooden coffins, 
 painted and covered with inscriptions, stone and earth 
 house utensils, and that is about all. One has got to feel 
 stronger and brighter than I do to turn over each little 
 pot in every direction and examine closely from every 
 side and I did not. I may try it with a few to find that I 
 am not overlooking what ought most to be seen but the 
 examination of the balance is generally more superficial. 
 From here I turned homeward, only stopping to take a 
 schnitzel and some sauerkraut in Wieden, and then shel- 
 tering myself as best I could from the torrid blinding 
 sun that reigns supreme fourteen hours in these summer 
 days in Vienna, I walked through Stadt Park with all the 
 good of most small parks and little more.
 
 "THE OPERA. 
 
 " I did not venture out again until evening when I made 
 my first pilgrimage to Vienna theatres in the shape of a 
 visit to the Opera House as much to see this beautiful 
 temple that promised so much from its outside, and then 
 too, to give myself a chance to like Tannhduser, which 
 in 1 872 in the Academy of Music in New York for the 
 first and only time I heard under Franz Abt's direction 
 and badly butchered at that. Prices are very high here, 
 almost as bad as our star performances in New York 
 opera during the Lucca and Neilson excitements though 
 I went way up into the third gallery, paid two gulden and 
 saved one by taking the second instead of the first row. 
 The performance was to commence at seven and I was 
 on hand a full hour before to get a full view of what had 
 most attracted me. I was anything but disappointed, 
 and all the way from the entrance to the roof found the 
 vestibule a flood of light from beautiful marble can- 
 delabras, rich frescoes, fine statuary, and gold and mar- 
 bles of all shades everywhere. No royal entrance that 
 I have yet seen bears the slightest comparison with it; 
 and then too the inside of the theatre, not to speak of 
 the great height and depth of it, its great gilded chan- 
 delier spreads such a blaze of light over the whole am- 
 phitheatre of gold and bright colors to which the audi- 
 ence adds variety, making so beautiful an ensemble that 
 one scarcely wishes to break the spell by examining the 
 details, and indeed I did not until the first entr' acte. 
 There are three rows of boxes in addition to the pros-
 
 [101] 
 
 cenium,aparquet,parterre,and two galleries, a large en- 
 closure for the orchestra, and an enormous stage. The 
 boxes bear upon their front medallions pictures of those 
 who in the last one hundred years have distinguished 
 themselves in the Viennese opera. The main curtain rep- 
 resents the Orpheus myth and is very rich, so also the 
 drop curtains, which are in the nature of two parallel 
 curtains, the first one so folded back as at all times to 
 make it easy for artists to answer recalls. The ceiling is 
 prettily frescoed with suggestions from mythology and 
 everything is in keeping with the pretentiousness of the 
 outside. 
 
 "Unfortunately the troupe was not represented at its 
 best tonight (generally about the first of May the lead- 
 ing lights commence to star) and neither Marie Wilt nor 
 the famous Beck were here. However as partial com- 
 pensation, Capell Meister Richter,who had been direct- 
 ing the Wagner concerts in London with such ^:/<z/,had 
 just returned and with his splendid orchestra of over 
 seventy men proved to me the greatest attraction of the 
 evening. 
 
 " Tannhduser offers an excellent opportunity for fine 
 scenic display, the stage here is large enough certainly 
 and in this respect it must be admitted that full justice 
 was done the composer, and I allow that improvement 
 in this respect alone may have been the means of radi- 
 cally changing my opinion of the opera. However, in 
 this regard it will not do to overlook the fine Tannhduser 
 that Herr Lobatt gave us, the gem of the evening, with
 
 [ 102 ] 
 
 a good voice, clear, full, and of large range, a graceful 
 bearing and conscientious acting. Here Scaria's Land- 
 graf was also very fair and while Miles. Kupfer and Dill- 
 ner did not spoil Elizabeth and Venus, one can hardly 
 say more for them, and Herr Alschy certainly did not 
 sing Wolfram in a way to do so fine a role justice. It is 
 a grand opera no doubt and if I am not prepared to say 
 that I like it as well as I do Lohengrin and Rienzi, I feel 
 certain that it is one of those compositions that grow 
 upon one with each hearing and that another such ren- 
 dition even as this was, for it was very smooth through- 
 out, would make me not only admire but love it. Rich- 
 ter and Lobatt divided the honors of the evening. I was 
 a little shocked to notice that in the galleries refresh- 
 ments were allowed to be sold in the entr actes, even 
 though they were delicatessen, but I suppose with the 
 ever-hungry stomachs of the beer-drinking people it is 
 the only way of keeping out lunch baskets, which cer- 
 tainly would be a still greater nuisance. 
 
 " The performance had lasted three and one-half hours, 
 and by the time I got home through the blinding storm 
 of dust that was howling through the streets and of course 
 most troublesome in the broad Ring, it was 11:15. Haus- 
 meister closes the door at ten, and every time he opens 
 you must pay him at least ten kr. and may as much as 
 you please. Everybody who is open to a trtn&ge/dhere 
 and there are mighty few exceptions refuses of course 
 to recognize a maximum. My landlady (a Frdulein I 
 have since found out) was waiting for me.
 
 I0 3 
 
 "KUNSTAND INDUSTRIE MUSEUM. 
 
 "Saturday, June 2/77. I commenced today by going 
 to the temple in Leopoldstadt, and while I was disap- 
 pointed in not finding Jellinek and Sulzer, who, I have 
 since learned, officiate in the old synagogue in the city, 
 I was much interested in the orthodox sermon and ser- 
 vice. The inner part of the temple hardly equals what 
 the outside leads one to expecl:, but is very pretty for all 
 that. The ladies are confined to two galleries, the choir 
 is made up of little boys who sing well though without 
 organ and stand right alongside of the altar. The congre- 
 gation looked very unaristocratic and hardly possessed of 
 sufficient means to build so fine a temple, and the min- 
 ister, a young man with a good deal of strength, urged 
 orthodoxy as a necessary means to continue the individu- 
 ality of the Jews, and sneered at that class of men who 
 without everentering a synagogue or being familiar with 
 the arguments of believers would by a single stroke over- 
 throw the work of a Moses, Samuel, or Micah. By ten 
 the first of the three Saturday services was over and I 
 went from here to the Kunst and Industrie Museum on 
 the Stuben Ring just over the Aspern Brucke and spent 
 the balance of the morning in examining its vestibule 
 and several rooms. It is a magnificent structure through- 
 out, completed but three or four years ago, the first of 
 the great collection of public buildings that is mak- 
 ing the Ring so exceptionally fine a street when that is 
 completed. It is arranged on the plan of the South Ken- 
 sington Museum, a large square vestibule lighted by sky-
 
 I0 4] 
 
 light, whose exits lead into rectangular chambers that 
 contain the specimens. It is a sort of exposition on a 
 small scale and really the importance of this museum 
 dates from the International Exposition of 1 872, when 
 gifts were often left by exhibitors and formed the nucleus 
 of the colleclion.Then too it is permitted business houses 
 to expose their wares here for sale, and being a good 
 advertising medium certain rooms almost lead you to 
 imagine that instead of being in a museum you are prom- 
 enading the Graben, Kornthner Gasse, or Rotherthurm. I 
 commenced with the lower floor (there are two) of the 
 vestibule, where,among plaster casts of prominent sculp- 
 tures of antiquities and the middle ages (directors of 
 museums I notice, seem pretty well agreed as to which 
 are the finest), there are also two fine originals of Ca- 
 nova : a Venus kneeling and a Venus leaving the bath ; 
 a Guardian Angel with Child, and a Psyche by Tene- 
 rani, and a very pretty Judicitia by Fenerstein. In addi- 
 tion to the casts also some bas-relief excavations from 
 Samothrace by an expedition sent there under the aus- 
 pices of the government. 
 
 "Room I. Here we find numerous specimens of gold- 
 smiths' work of the 1 7th century with many modern 
 imitations of ancient celebrities in galvanoplastic (Bar- 
 bedienne among the Frenchmen and Ilkington among 
 the English seem to give us the best work) .Then we have 
 specimens of old and new Russian, Indian, Malayan, Per- 
 sian,Turkish, and Chinese arms and war costumes, many 
 of them richly ornamented, ancient church relics, ceram-
 
 ics, and enamel work (with Chinese and Japanese speci- 
 mens) and here as well as in the other chambers and ex- 
 hibitions in Vienna, I got the notion that it would be 
 much more instructive, and less trying to the patience 
 of visitors if lines between different exhibitions were 
 more closely borne ; as it is, it looks as if out of each 
 mass of articles some were given to every art or scien- 
 tific collection in Vienna, and therefore with occasional 
 modifications and exceptions my descriptions must read 
 much alike, and knowing that in advance as I do, very 
 general. They have here also the treasures of the Ger- 
 man Order, with a little of all of these, a collection of 
 relics taken from the treasures of the Guelphs,who had 
 their seat in Braunschweig and Sachsen and Hannover 
 as well as northern Italy which belongs to the poor 
 wandering King of Hannover and also work in silver 
 and precious stones, and similar imitations as in the case 
 of the gold. So too a few specimens of Limoges and 
 Venetian enamel. 
 
 "Room I I.The next room reminds one of the European 
 rooms of the Saxon Porcelain collection though only in 
 a small way, and traces the growth of our splendid por- 
 celain work of today from the ancient stone and earth 
 work that we find among the Egyptians. We find here the 
 Grecian terra-cotta busts and vases, the Italian majolica 
 and the faience of the middle ages, gradually develop- 
 ing into Bottscher's porcelain which finds its climax in 
 the Meissner and Sevres manufactures. Then too we 
 have the beautiful Biscuit- Ar better, so called because it
 
 is twice burned, by which it loses all glossy color and 
 bears a striking resemblance to marble. The only im- 
 provement on the Saxon collection is the Austrian work 
 which appears to much better advantage in the speci- 
 men from the Vienna factory, which until recently pro- 
 duced some really good pieces. 
 
 "The collection of work is very extensive beginning 
 with old Mexican and Oriental work showing us also 
 Sicilian and Moorish manufacture (the so called Persian 
 faience from the isle of Rhodes) and then specimens of 
 modern common work from all nations from the Moors 
 to the Egyptians. Then two specimens of faience from 
 all times and peoples and the modern ironstone work. 
 Extremely pretty is the English Wedgwood work and 
 this suggests how wonderfully skilful the present gen- 
 eration is in counterfeiting so that often I can hardly tell 
 glass from porcelain, the latter from marble, wood from 
 glass and Heaven knows what not from what not. 
 
 "Room No. Ill maybe called the glass-room as with 
 a few exceptions it contains only glasswork dating from 
 the 1 6th and 1 7th centuries to manufactures of the last 
 few years and giving us some of the beautiful specimens 
 of Bohemian glasswork for which the blowers from 
 that region are universally famous. In addition to Ori- 
 ental work and very fine specimens of Venetian glass, 
 there is an interesting collection of glass-mosaics and of 
 fragments employed in the work of all shades, opaque 
 as well as transparent, and finally some of the pretty iri- 
 descent glass which has acquired all the tints of the rain-
 
 I0 7 
 
 bow and which as I afterward discovered is very hap- 
 pily used by modern works for ornamental purposes. As 
 an indication of the high degree of beauty to which the 
 working in glass has been brought, we are given here 
 a complete set (pitcher, salver, and goblet) made in the 
 last few years, with fine crystal work and beautiful fig- 
 ures and the inscription Rein derCrystall^fein das Met all, 
 echt der Wein, so soil es sein it is called the Willkommen 
 glass and is a gift from the city to the museum. 
 
 "RoomNo.IVcontainsfine specimens of Oriental fur- 
 niture and rich tapestries. All sorts of wonderful wea v- 
 ings,embroideries,and similar handiwork. Large, highly 
 ornamented stoves of all materials from stone to porce- 
 lain. Richly carved cabinets and more of these ingen- 
 ious woodworkings, and particularly two very large life- 
 size scenes: Virginia and Volumnia Interceding with 
 Coriolanus,and the Sabine Women Interfering between 
 their Fathers and the Romans. A sort of wooden mosaic 
 by Roentgen ( 1 779). Among the Gobelins two large 
 battle scenes from the wars of Alexander Granicus and 
 the defeat of the Indians. Among the wood cuttings 
 many high intricately cut altars. 
 
 "Too tired to do more good work I left the rooms, 
 went upstairs, where the walls and balustrades are deco- 
 rated with fine colored marbles and a large slab indi- 
 cates the spot where the Emperor laid the cornerstone. 
 Here too are casts of prominent sculptures, naturally 
 some of Michael Angelo in Florence and Rome. On 
 this floor also are the library of the museum, directors'
 
 [io8] 
 
 rooms, and then a very fine room that is called the Sitz- 
 ungs Saal where around a large table are placed richly 
 upholstered chairs. Why it is so called I do not know for 
 in addition to these is an exhibition of modern furni- 
 ture in the highest style of ornamentation and includ- 
 ing the finest mirrors, chandeliers, secretaries,pianos,etc. 
 Also rich rugs and carpets (English made in Persian style) 
 and a beautiful glass painting by Lorin a Chartres, a Visi- 
 tation of Mary after Da Piombo's beautiful painting, 
 transparent colors and a real masterpiece of glass burn- 
 ing. I reserved the other four or five rooms for another 
 occasion, and having hung around the elegant halls for 
 awhile returned home to give my eyes the rest they so 
 much needed. 
 
 "Sunday, June 3, 1877. Without bothering myself 
 about the second procession in honor of the Fro/in Leich- 
 manns Tag that was marching almost in front of my door 
 and whose course was traced by the green leaves that 
 were strewn through the streets, I passed on to the mu- 
 seum again to spend an hour or two there before the 
 beginning of service in the Augustiner Kirche which I 
 wished to attend. 
 
 "I began where I left ofFat Room No. V, which con- 
 tains workings (principally of the last few years) in lead, 
 tin,iron,brass,and copper,and not stopping at the simply 
 utilitarian objects with whose manufacture we are ac- 
 customed to associate the use of the non-noble metals, 
 we find here statues,reliefs, and highly ornamental work 
 of all sorts in the best artistic form and often imitating
 
 [iog] 
 
 in the most skilful way production of gold and silver- 
 smiths. Particularly in the galvanoplastic specimens, 
 which of course are made by electricity (electrotypes) . 
 
 " Room No. VI is a collection of showcases with the 
 best specimens that one finds in jewelry, porcelain, ga- 
 lanterie,embroidery,lace,etc., stores of the day,and while 
 representing as it does the culmination of all art indus- 
 tries in the present generation, I may be justified in say- 
 ing therefore, interesting though it was for me, I need 
 not enlarge upon what can be seen every day in the streets 
 of every city. Some wonderfully clever chromo and wood- 
 work is particularly noteworthy, and they have an asso- 
 ciation in Vienna for the special purpose of reproducing 
 artistic models in cheap form to be accessible to all and 
 this includes paintings,drawings,crayons, sculptures, etc. 
 
 "Room No. VIII contains a great many specimens 
 (some of them very rich and beautiful) of book covers 
 of the 1 6th to i8th centuries, as also interiors indicat- 
 ing the styles of illumination of the early publications. 
 Then leather work generally including some beautiful 
 specimens of Oriental work. The pretty Chinese paint- 
 ing on rice paper with which we are pretty familiar,some 
 extremely clever Persian reliefs on paper made with the 
 nails, simply good illustrations of Indian mosaic work 
 and enameling, and then several cases of small types of 
 Oriental and Mexican life and people, made in those 
 countries. Pretty straw and basket work from Austrian 
 countries, and a numerous collection of seals, /. e. Ger- 
 man Order and House of Hapsburg. Among other ex-
 
 [no] 
 
 hibits of special historic interest, a mosaic from Car- 
 thage. 
 
 "I had still two more rooms to examine, but I was 
 anxious to get to the HofpfarrKirche by eleven, and so 
 left off here. 
 
 "SIGHTSEEING. 
 
 " I passed the large Coburg Palace on the way, ten times 
 as high as the street on which it is situated is wide, and 
 also walked through the beautiful Karnthner Hof, enli- 
 vened by its skylight frescoes and bright colors and ar- 
 rived in good season at the over half-millenium old Court 
 Chapel to hear the mass sung by the famous choir which 
 at least today was supported by orchestra. Of course, be- 
 ing connected with the Burg, the Chapel is at least as 
 pretty as every other in Vienna and that means very beau- 
 tiful (the Church is the only institution in Austria that 
 can not complain of hard times) and principally its 
 high Gothic altar deserves mention for elegance. Op- 
 posite the entrance is the famous mausoleum erected 
 by the Duke of Sachsen-Teschen (Prince of Poland) 
 to his much loved wife the Archduchess, Maria Chris- 
 tina, daughter of the unsterbltchen Maria Theresa, and for 
 which Canova was paid 20,000 ducats or 50,000 dol- 
 lars gold. The entrance to the tomb is a large triangu- 
 lar marble piece on whose steps are three groups the 
 one a female figure of Virtue, with child in each hand, 
 coming to mourn at the tomb. Just behind them lower 
 down on the steps, Charity leading a blind man and or-
 
 [Ill] 
 
 phan child also to pay tribute, and on the other side the 
 Angel of Fame, reclining against a sleeping lion these 
 groups to represent her four main attributes : charity, 
 virtue, strength, and fame, and the whole is well worthy 
 of the master's reputation. It was eredted in 1805, and 
 is one of the relatively numerous works of Canova's about 
 Vienna. His Theseus and Minotaurs in the Volks Garten 
 I have not yet found. This is the group which Napoleon 
 I had intended for Milan. The vaults in the church also 
 contain the bones of Leopold II (1792) who died but 
 two years after ascending the throne, and through the 
 bars one sees the memorial built in marble by Zauner, 
 the Emperor lying on a sarcophagus by whose side re- 
 clines a figure of Religion (?) mourning. Maria's general 
 and her physician VonDaunandVanSwieten are also 
 buried here. The mass was a beauty and well given, par- 
 ticularly the violin solo and obligato in one of the move- 
 ments and I had seen and heard enough to amply repay 
 the walk in the hot sun and dust (for both of which my 
 experience makes Vienna famous). I did not venture 
 out again after returning until evening when I strolled 
 through the Ring, Hof&Burg Garten which being more 
 select in its promenaders and less crowded, I prefer to 
 the Prater. In wandering about I came upon the Hohe 
 Markf,the center of the old Roman townVindobona, 
 whose Praetor is said to have lived in the palace of the 
 Baron of Sina, the oldest house in Vienna. In the cen- 
 ter of the square a Votive-Statue, representing Mary's 
 engagement, under a Corinthian temple, built in the
 
 [112] 
 
 reign of Charles VI after von Erlach's plans much 
 more curious than pretty- and the superstructure much 
 more attractive than the triple group of figures under it. 
 Home before dark and not A'ida, with Wilt and Beck 
 at the Opera House, our fellow-country-lady and gym- 
 nast at the Carl Theatre in Verne and Suppe's Courier des 
 Czaren, nor Hof-Burg, Stadt, nor Furst Theatre could 
 draw me out again. 
 
 " Monday, June 4/77. My day's work commences with 
 a visit to the Albertina. The Albertina is a collection of 
 original drawings,steel engravings,maps,and books com- 
 menced by the Duke of Sachsen-Teschen and continued 
 by the Archduke Charles,and is exhibited in the Albrecht 
 Palace. It is particularlystrong in original drawings,con- 
 taining specimens of all painters almost,and a great many 
 of Raphael, Durer, and Rubens, the more important of 
 which are exposed to view in glass cases and are very in- 
 teresting especially where they illustrate the preparatory 
 work on paintings which have afterwards grown famous. 
 
 "I was also much interested in the steel engravings 
 here; there are some two hundred thousand in all, most 
 of which however are bound in volumes, large folios 
 and I contented myself with those that were exposed on 
 the walls as they were sufficient to tire my eyes. I exam- 
 ined with considerable care copies of paintings that I am 
 not likely to see, and among other results that followed 
 was a determination to suspend judgment on Correggio, 
 some of these copies giving a foretaste of his paintings 
 that would justify the reputation he has, better than any-
 
 ["3] 
 
 thing I have yet seen. Raphael and Michael Angelo I saw 
 were almost untasted as yet, Murillo and Da Vinci ditto, 
 and that much enthusiasm as I have spent over Veronese, 
 Titian, Rubens, Van Dyck, Rembrandt, etc., they were 
 very far from being exhausted, and their fertile brains 
 and busy hands seem to have rilled all markets with their 
 masterpieces. After resting at home during the warmer 
 part of the day, I took a walk in the Ring-Garten t in this 
 precincl:, only to satisfy myself that I would have missed 
 nothing by staying away, made the round of it in about 
 half an hour,and then just to stay out of myroom, smoked 
 a cigar in the Prater, and went home to rest myself for 
 an examination of the Schatz-Kammer tomorrow for 
 which the Kanzler has already issued a ticket to me. 
 
 "Tuesday, June 5/77. My card of admission to the 
 Kammerwzs limited today, and therefore I was early on 
 hand to make the best use of the three hours during 
 which it was accessible. It required but one to finish it 
 and that is evidence enough that it is not equal to the 
 Saxon Royal treasure. Perhaps the difference is to be 
 traced to a more general distribution of the * Hapsburg 
 Lothringen private treasures' but whatever the cause 
 there is no doubt that except in certain historical speci- 
 mens and precious stones, the Schatz-Kammer does not 
 stand out in the same bold contrast to other collections 
 here that the Grunes Gewolbe does to the Saxon. 
 
 "A large crowd was waiting in front of the door for the 
 opening hour, and with it at ten I pushed through and 
 passed the tall guards that carefully guard these millions.
 
 ["4] 
 
 "The first room contains richly worked flags and other 
 heraldic insignia, pointing to different periods of Haps- 
 burg rule and the many once independent little govern- 
 ments that make up the extensive title of his Apostolic 
 Majesty. Two finely chased silver caskets presented to 
 him by the Hungarian delegation at the time of his cor- 
 onation as king in 1 867, and an ebony box in which the 
 key to the imperial vault is found, are also here. 
 
 "In the next room are specimens of clocks from the 
 earliest date to the present, noteworthy not only because 
 of their mechanical ingenuity but for fine gold and silver 
 work and tasteful ornamentation as well. Most inter- 
 esting among them, the first clock in which the pendu- 
 lum was used made about 1 600 by Burgi. Then also work 
 of all sorts in burg-krystall%&& smoked topaz, often dec- 
 orated with fine gems. The room with the gold and silver 
 work is not so extensive as it is select, and some salvers 
 in finely chased gold and silver work (the best from 
 Niirnberg and Augsburg) and set off with inlaid Ori- 
 ental pearls and mother of pearl are models of beauty. 
 Then too we have goblets and pitchers out of single 
 pieces of lapis lazuli and other precious stones (agate is 
 quite common) and good enamel work. The famous salt 
 cellar that Benvenuto Cellini made for Francis I, per- 
 haps twelve inches by six a figure of Neptune and a 
 nymph, the former with trident pointing to a ship (the 
 cellar proper) is here, and the first clear indication of the 
 sculptor's greatness that I have met. 
 
 "The main pecuniary worth of the Kammer is con-.
 
 ["5] 
 
 tained in a small case, which is alive with light from a 
 heap of precious stones coming from ornaments, orders, 
 crowns,etc.,and includes among many wonderful things 
 the great Florentine diamond, 133/4 carats, fully an inch 
 in diameter with yellowish tint, supposed to have been 
 the property of Charles the Bold of Burgundy, lost by 
 him at the battle of Murten, and sold by a peasant who 
 found it to a Bernese merchant for a gulden. In the midst 
 of an Order of the Golden Fleece with 150 diamonds 
 that make up the necklace with which the order is gen- 
 erally worn is the Frankfurter solitaire, and one some- 
 what smaller, the former also a matter of forty-three 
 carats. A 26-carat diamond, most wonderful because 
 of its ruby-red color, in an order of the grand cross of 
 Maria Theresa with 548 diamonds. The crown insignia 
 of Rudolph II and the crown of the Empress Elizabeth, 
 as beautiful and rich as one may expect to find them in 
 such surroundings. In the same room, the paraphernalia 
 (dress pitcher, basin, etc.) used for imperial bathrooms 
 and also the coronation and oath swords. 
 
 "The historical chamber though small too, has many 
 a valuable relic among which should be mentioned first, 
 I suppose, as becomes a good Christian, what purports 
 to be a piece of the Holy Cross and Tablecloth, a tooth 
 of St. John guarded more carefully than aught else in 
 the collection; of a less religious character, all the para- 
 phernalia of Charlemagne at his coronation, down to 
 his shoes and shirt and gloves. The imperial insignia, 
 including the Reichsapfel and the Bible on which the
 
 [n6] 
 
 German Emperor at Aix took the oath a Horoscope 
 ofWallenstein and a snuff-box ofTaunitz'with enam- 
 eled heads of Francis and Maria on the the cover, sword 
 of St. Mauretius and Haroun al Raschid, and what was 
 of great interest to me, for I have not yet outgrown the 
 charm that the name of Napoleon has always had for me, 
 the magnificent cradle of his son (the Duke of Reich- 
 stadt and King of Rome) and also the coronation robes 
 and insignia of the Emperor himself as Red' Italia. The 
 cradle's massiveness is best told by its weight, 500 pounds. 
 More weight than the ill-fated child ever had in the des- 
 tinies of nations. This makes up all of the Schatz-Ka?n- 
 mer, whose jewels alone, of course, are of inestimable 
 value but which neither is so rich nor covers so wide a 
 field as its correlative in Dresden."
 
 CHAPTER VI 
 Munich 
 
 June 23/77. 1 left Innspruch this morn- 
 ing at 7: 1 5 just as I had entered it in a rain storm, 
 and all the way to Munich had a chance to con- 
 tent myself with mist instead of mountains, in 
 which they were completely enveloped. On reaching 
 the border, one exchanges the red, white, black, and 
 yellow for the blue and white, the gulden for the mark, 
 and receives the substantial Deutschland in place of the 
 Tyrol that is a little of everything and not much of any- 
 thing. Here, too, we made the first of the many changes 
 of cars that seem to distinguish traveling on Bavarian 
 railways and had to submit our baggage to the inspection 
 of custom-house officials, who were, however, very le- 
 nient. At ten we left here on the royal Bavarian State 
 trains, and through the Hochgebirge passed on to Rosen- 
 heim, where the hills make only a very indistinct back- 
 ground in the distance and we have the cedar forests 
 instead, which is followed by the Teufels Graben\ viz., 
 a hill on one side of the road and a chasm on the other, 
 and so with at least good speed we push on, strike the 
 Isar at last, and Munich, the birthplace of * our ances- 
 tors,' loomed up before us and by 2 P.M. we are in the 
 stately depot that faces the streets running to the Carls 
 P/afz. 
 " It was like attaining the height of my ambition to
 
 [n8] 
 
 find myself in this modern Athens, and yet this after- 
 noon the holy feeling that seemed to pervade the air 
 came rather from the idea that these very streets had 
 been trodden by my father and mother in the days of 
 their youth, and I was but a faithful and respectful wor- 
 shiper coming to render homage at my Mecca. Very 
 sincerely I wished father at my side at this moment. I 
 should have found intense joy in the delight he must 
 have shown to see once again the place of his birth and 
 education, and if he comes to Europe at all, I shall man- 
 age to be at his side when he enters Munich. It is very 
 clear that except in the interior portions of the city, with 
 the Marten Platz as a center, he would hardly recognize 
 the Munich he knew, for all around this square, in great 
 broad streets and squares upon squares of splendid build- 
 ings, the city shows the work of the years spent by him 
 in America, and, with but few exceptions, what makes 
 Munich most attractive to the stranger and what gives 
 it its individuality, has had its birth since his departure 
 from it. 
 
 "Unfavorable as the weather is, I could not restrain 
 my eagerness to get a glimpse of this country so dear to 
 me and therefore started off at once to get a bird's-eye 
 view, and for two days contented myself with that alone, 
 merely lolling about the streets, admiring the palaces of 
 art that Ludwig and Max have erected here, and noth- 
 ing more.The old Rathhaus (Town Hall), and the beau- 
 tiful new one in purest Gothic style, whose bright white 
 and red, unmistakably showing its youth, yet make you
 
 ["9] 
 
 feel as if you were living in the 1 4th century ,whose styles 
 it imitates to perfection. From here I wind through a 
 little street, where stands the house whose inscription 
 tells you that its corner room, second floor, is the place 
 where Mozart finished his Idomeneus, which leads into 
 the Hofgraben (court moat) and Max Joseph P/atz,with 
 the Hoftheatre, the old Tarringische Palace now remod- 
 eled in the Arcade style so popular in Munich, and op- 
 posite it the Neue Residenz, a stately looking building 
 which is the front for an enormous complex of build- 
 ings at one time or another Residenzen and forming large 
 Hofs. In the center of the square, a fine monument of 
 the first Max Joseph (1825) facing the Thtatines Church, 
 and erected by the people in celebration of the twenty- 
 fifth anniversary of his throne ascension, after a model 
 by Rauch which is sufficient guaranty for its beauty. 
 From this square run the Ludwigand Maximilian Stras- 
 j?,that contain the strong points of Munich's greatness, 
 almost exclusively built by the monarchs after whom 
 they are named and specially favored by them. 
 
 " I chose the Ludwig Street as my egress, with the Alte 
 Residenz on one side and the Feldherrn (Hall of the Mar- 
 shals) on the other,whose balcony is as yet crowned with 
 statues of Tilly and Wrede only, the work of Sch wan- 
 thaler, that indefatigable genius, who with Gartner and 
 Klenze,the architecT:s,Cornelius and Kaulbach,thepaint- 
 ers, seems to have made up the nucleus of that group that 
 Ludwig was wise enough to employ to make Munich 
 what it is, a Pantheon of arts. The loggia faces the Odeon
 
 Platz, only an enlargement of the street, in whose cen- 
 ter is the beautiful Ludwig monument, the monarch in 
 royal robes, supported by two pages; below are figures 
 of Poetry, Art, Industry,and Religion a model by Wid- 
 man, whom its great beauty is entitled to lift out of the 
 darkness that my ignorance or his unproductiveness has 
 left him in. For once, the decorations seem to be descrip- 
 tive of the monarchs, whom a nation's loyalty crowns 
 with the attributes of a god, but I am inclined to believe 
 that his sole title to religious excellence lies in the build- 
 ing of the Ludwigs and Hofkirchen, which may have 
 been done as well to gratify his taste for architectural 
 beauty as from orthodox motives, so called. The Odeon, 
 Prince Luitpold's palace, and the Ministry of War that 
 help to build the square, are in the peculiar Rundbogen 
 style that is adopted by all the public buildings of which 
 the street is composed, and in the same outward impos- 
 ing form, the favorite building material being brick and 
 stone with marble trimmings. All these three with the 
 palace of Empress Elizabeth's father, the Duke Max, 
 that follows are built by Klenze, and the Bibliothek, by 
 Gartner. This is crowned by statues on the steps that 
 lead to the portal of Homer, Aristotle, Hippocrates, and 
 Thucydides, names that are common enough here, and 
 well content, I dare say, to build their temples here. 
 
 "The Ludwigs Kirche follows and by its two high stee- 
 ples in pyramidal form though quadrilateral and the 
 limestone of which it is built stands out in strong con- 
 trast to the red and white of its neighbors. With a peep at
 
 [121] 
 
 the Jesus and four Evangelists (Schwanthaler) that bless 
 the portal, I enter and of course find the celebration of 
 mass in progress. The Church is richly frescoed ( Ludwig 
 seemed to take particular pleasure in this branch of paint- 
 ing) and the altar piece is a colossal Last Judgment by 
 Cornelius himself, indeed the largest fresco work that 
 the master has given us. The criticism that I make upon 
 it applies almost to every painter that Munich has edu- 
 cated in this century, not even (entirely) excepting Kaul- 
 bach ; while the conceptions are broad and intellectual 
 as with the intense training of our better painters we are 
 justified in expecting the execution fails to exhibit that 
 quiet beauty, that evenness, that smoothness in tone that 
 you find in the better ancients, particularly Raphael and 
 Van Dyck, and it is seldom that you can leave a picture 
 with the satisfaction that it is well-rounded. 
 
 "The Blind Asylum andUniversity are on one side; the 
 Priests' School and Max Joseph Educational Institute 
 on the other follow in close succession and then comes 
 that fitting boundary, the Siegesthor (Gate of Victory) 
 like the Maximilianeum on the Maximilian Strasse and 
 thePropytea on the Brienner, perhaps the finest of them 
 like a well-ordered climax, the best is left for the last. It 
 is built after the plan of the Constantine Arch in Rome: 
 a triple entrance,the arch carried by Corinthian columns 
 and the whole topped by an enormous quadriga. Vic- 
 torias and bas-reliefs of war incidents are proper orna- 
 ments for a monument to Dem BayrischenHeere, and the 
 whole presents that exquisite symmetry that a copy from
 
 I22 
 
 Roman or Grecian architecture in its prime is sure to 
 give us. Not allowing myself to be attracted into the 
 English garden to the right, as I was anxious to employ 
 the daylight in domiciliating myself and putting my 
 time to the best possible use, for any day might see me on 
 the way to Switzerland now, I then came to the Brien- 
 ner Strasse, where on the Carolinen Platz stands a high 
 obelisk creeled out of captured cannon to the 30,000 
 troops that fell in the Russian campaign l auchfur der 
 Vaterland Befreiung' (which, by the way, is to my un- 
 derstanding a little enigmatical), and from which I hur- 
 ried on to the Propylea which from afar drew me at 
 locomotive pace and claimed my attention even before 
 the Glyptothek and Kunst aus Stellings Gebdude that stand 
 to the right and left of it. Klenze has once more gone to 
 antiquity for his inspiration, this time taking the Acrop- 
 olis for a model, and supports the Thor upon Doric col- 
 umns, the inner ones, however, being Ionic. Schwan- 
 thaler has enriched it with frescoes of incidents from the 
 Grecian War of Independence, with which all Philhel- 
 lenes, not excluding Ludwig himself, were then occu- 
 pied. The very day after its completion indeed, October 
 30, 1862, King Otto entered Munich again. The Glyp- 
 tothek, the first of the series of art palaces that the city 
 owes to its Sardanapalusian monarch, is a square with 
 solid walls (the light for the salons coming from above), 
 the porticus being carried by eight Ionic columns and 
 ornamented by statues of Vulcan, Pericles, and Father 
 Phidias on one side, Hadrian,Prometheus, and Daedalus
 
 I2 3 
 
 on the other, who in some way are associated with the 
 art of sculpture to which the halls are dedicated. These, 
 as well as the ornamentation of the gable (Minerva pro- 
 tecting the arts), are the work of Wagner, who also de- 
 signed the beautiful quadriga. 
 
 "In the niches on the east are those who since the Res- 
 toration are entitled to leadership in their art: of the 
 Renaissance period, Angelo, Donatello, Ghiberti, Peter 
 Vischer,Cellini,andJohn of Bologna; of the present day, 
 Canova, Schwanthaler,Thorwaldsen, Rauch,Tenerani, 
 and Gibson, somehow leaving out Rietschel and his pu- 
 pils, why I do not see, unless it be that those above named 
 are preferred for having given Munich monuments of 
 their greatness. 
 
 "Sunday, June 24/77.The day opened as it had closed, 
 rainy, and so I concluded to attend the morning mass 
 at Michaelis Kirche and hear one of the fine old masses 
 of Pergolese, Allegri, or Palestina, to which the choir 
 here confines itself; and indeed, though the Church was 
 crammed full of devout worshipers whom no bad weath- 
 er could keepaway and I was compelled to stand through- 
 out the service, I scarcely gave that a thought, for though 
 neither the choir nor the orchestra were responsible for 
 it, I was as if enthralled throughout and can understand 
 that the story they tell of Mozart when at St. Peters he 
 heard the Allegri mass is more than a myth. If the music 
 does belong to days that are buried, we can do no better 
 than to imitate it ; and to hear such an Agnus Dei, so 
 wailing and sad, or such a Gloria, so exalting or grand, is
 
 I2 4] 
 
 enough to make one turn Catholic on the spot, if only 
 to be in full sympathy with the music. I came too late 
 to hear more than the closing words of the sermon, but 
 they showed me that the theme had been one which the 
 Catholic clergy now loves to adopt in justifying their 
 opposition to liberal measures; viz., that progress unless 
 it brings about an improvement in the human race is no 
 progress at all, and the only times in which the Church 
 has opposed itself to so called 'progressists' was when 
 it saw that an advance in appearance was only a retro- 
 grade movement in fact. 
 
 " Mass once finished, I ran over the Church hastily be- 
 fore the military mass commenced, and found that not 
 only in the excellence of its music did it give a parallel 
 for the Augustiner Kirche in Vienna, but that where that 
 offered Canova's great monument to the Archduchess 
 Maria Christina, this gave us Thorwaldsen's to the Duke 
 of Leuchtenburg, the great and good son of Josephine, 
 Eugene de Beauharnais, of whom his memorial is still 
 able to say of him and with him, 'Honneuretjidelite.' I 
 never had but one reproach for this man and that one, 
 that he was not Napoleon's son; his qualities were ex- 
 cellent enough to allow him to be certainly.That would 
 have spared us Josephine's divorce, which makes un- 
 pleasant reading in Napoleon's history and (of course, 
 put in a superstitious rather than an argumentative way) 
 might have spared Napoleon his defeat. 
 
 "The rain prevented my accomplishing anything un- 
 til evening, when I attended Vespers at the Metropoli-
 
 I ["5] 
 
 tan Church of the Archbishopric, the Frauenkirc/ie t znd 
 while I heard but poor music, I saw an enormous church 
 in late Gothic style (the Michaelis Kirche represents that 
 period of Roman architecture when the Gothic had been 
 forsaken for old classical forms) with the same length as 
 its steeples are high, something over 320 feet. It is beau- 
 tifully decorated with elaborate woodwork in Gothic 
 architecture, too, making up the altar, pulpit, shrines, 
 etc., very monuments of painstaking. In the nave of 
 the Church is the grave of the Emperor Ludwig, the 
 Bayer,to whom Munich has particular reason to be grate- 
 ful for many rewards for her own constancy to him. 
 
 "This duty done, I made for the Maximilian Strasse 
 to give it my first inspection, and found the same uni- 
 formity as well as peculiarity in the buildings here as 
 in the Ludivigs Strasse; they have, however, nothing but 
 this and the pretentiousness of their houses in common. 
 
 "Then we come to the beautiful monument of Max 
 II,the late King,a gem of work by Zumbusch in bronze, 
 and in the bright red color that its youth allows it setting 
 off the whole square. 
 
 "Beyond, and over the bridge that spans the Isar rush- 
 ing through the English Garden in two arms, is the Max- 
 imilianeum built by Max II as an educational institute 
 for college employees (suggesting that President Hayes 
 in his civil service reform might start a new West Point 
 for the training of civil employees of the government). 
 It stands on an eminence (the Gasteighohe) and crowns 
 the street a brick edifice with rich frescoes on its ar-
 
 [126] 
 
 cade-like front, to which winding broad steps lead 
 made upon gold background by Peloty, Dietz, Spiess, 
 and Echter. I was not admitted to the inner halls where 
 there is at least a historically interesting collection of 
 paintings representing thirty great stages in the world's 
 history by different painters, as also twelve busts of cele- 
 brated men, which I greatly regret I must accept on faith. 
 
 "Having taken a cup of coffee in the pretty Cafe Lo- 
 renZj which with the Victoria is on this street, I started 
 blindly into the Englischer Garten, for which the Mun- 
 chener'zxt under obligations to Count Rumford, another 
 one of these versatile geniuses; and if I did not find its 
 well shaded allee and heavy old trees beautiful, I am 
 willing to account for it by the fact that the roads after 
 the many rainfalls of the past days were in miserable con- 
 dition and I was in no mood to find a Paradise pretty, 
 so that I trudged along even to the second bridge and 
 over it only because it told me so many stories over again 
 that had been given to me before by father, and more 
 than once I was no little moved to think that perhaps 
 I was treading at this and that moment the very ground 
 that he and his parents before him had trodden. 
 
 "I passed the Chinesischer Thurm, which afforded me 
 another of the many chances that the traveler has to dis- 
 pel illusions, for it is nothing more than a sort of tower 
 like those that our old engine-houses in Cincinnati used to 
 have to look out for fires before the fire alarm telegraph 
 was introduced. As I worked my way out into the Hof- 
 gartenwith its long arcades, I saw a little statue by Xavier
 
 C 
 
 Schwan thaler (the junior,! believe) ,presented to the peo- 
 ple by some Graf with an unpronounceable name, and 
 generally spoken of as the ' Harmlosj from the first word 
 of the inscription which bids the laborer wander harm- 
 lessly in the fresh air and green fields, then to return again 
 with renewed vigor and lightened heart to his work. 
 
 "Went home through the Promenaden P/afz, where 
 a whole bunch of statues crown the green : in the center, 
 Max Emanuel (the Erofarer), Gluck, Westenrieder 'the 
 great historian,' Kreitmayer, the Bavarian Chancellor 
 that gave the country its laws, and Orlando di Tasso or, 
 more properly (he wasaNetherlander),RolanddeLattre, 
 the composer. Further, the large Knegs-Schule and, to 
 keep it warm, the Trinity and Capuchin Churches, then 
 the Karlo Platz, with a monument of Goethe, and we 
 are home where the rain keeps us. 
 
 "June 2 5/77. The weather has improved and I am on 
 my way to the Alte Pinakothek y w\iic\\. with the garden 
 that encloses it occupies the square formed by the Arcis, 
 Gabelsberger, Baier, and Theresien Strasse. On the square 
 north of it is the Neue Pinakothek, and together they 
 make up the royal gallery, the latter having pictures 
 mostly of the present century, the former from its prime, 
 the time of the Renaissance 1 5th, 1 6th, and 1 7th cen- 
 turies. 
 
 "I confess, in the hurried examination that the con- 
 dition of my eyes would allow me I was sorely disap- 
 pointed, and was not only not willing to give it prece- 
 dence over Dresden and Vienna, but indeed placed it
 
 [128] 
 
 considerably in arrear, except in the specimens of Raph- 
 ael and Murillo,the old German masters (in Kolner and 
 Diirer the collection is particularly strong), and perhaps, 
 at least so far as Dresden is concerned, Rubens, too. How- 
 ever, in this collection of fourteen hundred pictures there 
 are at least thirty of surpassing interest, and that is enough 
 to give any gallery a world-wide reputation, while it 
 would be unfair not to add also that one seeking to learn 
 as well as to enjoy can find much material here to teach 
 him. The arrangement of the pictures and the peculiar 
 mode of lighting them is admirable, and the halls in 
 which they are placed, alike by richness and the taste 
 of their ornamentation, simply beautiful. 
 
 "The first halls and adjoining cabinets for the smaller 
 pictures aredevotedtotheoldGermanandDutch Schools, 
 and here Diirer, both by number of works as well as by 
 their general excellence, stands out prominently, and 
 in his so called Testament as Artist and Christian of the 
 four Apostles in two pictures, Peter and John and Paul 
 and Mark, gains the wreath. 
 
 "Of the later Netherlanders, we fail to find that host 
 of names and works that particularly Dresden is so strong 
 in, and must content ourselves with a few exemplars of 
 such names as Ruysdael, Wouverman, Berchem,Teniers, 
 Ostade, Jordaens, Snyders, etc., to tell us at least of what 
 they are able to do. 
 
 "Van Dyck gives us several portraits, and among the 
 pictures of imagination, two: a Pieta and a Madonna 
 with Jesus and John, of that mild beauty and smoothness
 
 I2 9] 
 
 that in my opinion makes him a painter second to none. 
 I believe that art critics would hardly justify the enor- 
 mous lengths that my enthusiasm for Van Dyck carry 
 me, and yet that judgment in spite of all authority grows 
 confirmed with experience. 
 
 " Rembrandt, except in a portrait or two, is hardly seen 
 at his best here, but Rubens gives us a fine collection once 
 more, in his own bold, vigorous style, and one can only 
 wonder, as one goes from gallery to gallery and sees salon 
 after salon filled with his works, at the indefatigable in- 
 dustry of this man who has compressed into one life the 
 work of a dozen ordinary ones. He must, verily, have 
 painted a picture a day. Of the best of his pictures here, I 
 select as my favorites the larger Last Judgment, another 
 one of his enormous conceptions; The Fruit Wreath, a 
 large wreath of fruits and flowers carried by six little 
 cherubs; The Battle of the Amazons; a splendid Lion 
 Chase; and The Massacre of the Innocents all of which 
 I was compelled to give only a superficial examination, 
 so that a second visit to the gallery is almost imperative 
 to have even an intelligent opinion of its contents. 
 
 "When we have finished with Rubens, we come to 
 the Italian School, and while the four or five original 
 Raphaels are enough to turn the gallery into a peacock, 
 we miss the Titian of the Belvedere, and the del Sarto, 
 Correggio,Veronese,andGuidoReniof the Dresden Mu- 
 seum. To be sure, they have here one of Guido Reni's 
 Ascension of Mary which is the best work of the mas- 
 ter I have seen in these proportions and indeed a noble
 
 [ 'S 
 
 work of art, but that is the sole exception. Hardly any- 
 thing among the Pre-Raphaelite painters that deserves 
 mention, and even of the later date, I can only pick 
 out Cignani's Ascension of Mary and perhaps Titian's 
 Venus initiating a woman into the service of Bacchus 
 in all the lascivious splendor which this Italian knows 
 so well how to throw about his women. 
 
 "In the Spanish School, if we have nothing else, we 
 have at least six magnificent Murillos, a series of paint- 
 ings from the lives of the beggarly, fruit-selling children 
 of Spain, so material in every detail, so full of expression 
 and eloquence as the perfection of painting alone can give . 
 For the first time, I have seen him depart from his relig- 
 ious subjects, and may add that for the first time except 
 in the St. John at the Belvedere I have seen him in all 
 his masterly genius. The two girls counting money, the 
 two boys eating grapes and melons, the same gambling, 
 the same eating fruit while a woman cleans their hair, 
 are simply exquisite and deserve to be as familiar to us 
 all as engravings have made them. 
 
 "The Frenchmen are as strange here as in Vienna and 
 Dresden, and the best we have of them in these early cen- 
 turies is, as usual, Claude Lorraine and Poussin, the lat- 
 ter with a burial of Christ, the former with landscapes. 
 
 "Not the least interesting feature of the Pinakothek is 
 the loggia, a sort of vestibule on the same floor as the 
 collection, divided into many arches, whose ceilings and 
 adjoining walls are richly frescoed by Cornelius in pic- 
 tures illustrating the history of painting in Italy, Ger-
 
 many, Netherland, and France always instructive, even 
 where not artistically satisfactory. The climax in Italy 
 begins with Cimabue and his pupil, the shepherd Giotto, 
 whom as such he discovers drawing on the ground in 
 the fields leading us through the history of Fra Angel- 
 ico, Masaccio, Perugino, Da Vinci, Correggio, and the 
 Venetian School down to Angelo, and budding into 
 Raphael with an introduction indicating the connec- 
 tion between lyric poetry and architecture, with relig- 
 ion through its Old Testament representatives, David 
 and Solomon and secondly, the Awakening of Art 
 through the Crusades, which Rietschel employs for the 
 general improver, civilization. 
 
 "Thehistory of the Dutch School is developed through 
 the defeat of the Turks, by Carl Martel, the preachings 
 of Boniface, also used by Rietschel, and then through 
 the efforts of the great MeisterWilhelm of Coin, whose 
 acquaintance I made here for the first time, the brothers 
 Van Eyck, Memling, Van Leyden, Durer, Holbein, and 
 Rembrandt, Poussin, and finally, Rubens, who in such a 
 history is at all events entitled to preference over Van 
 Dyck,ifonly for the reason that the master deserves more 
 praise than the pupil for being great none will dispute 
 that Van Dyck was the greatest of his pupils. 
 
 "The collection of vases, steel engravings, and draw- 
 ings, also in the building, was closed, and I reserve all 
 comment until examination.
 
 [ '32 ] 
 
 "GLYPTOTHEK. 
 
 "After a little dinner, more to give myself rest than 
 to appease any appetite that was troubling me, I ran 
 through the rain to the Glyptothek and finished that in 
 the same cursory way the same afternoon. 
 
 "As the name indicates, it is a temple of sculpture, and 
 its salons represent distinct epochs in the history of the 
 art. Being no Champollion,it will not beprofitable to lay 
 much stress on Rooms I and II, the Assyrian and Egyp- 
 tian, and indeed their specimens are not very numerous, 
 which applies pretty much to the whole Glyptothek. One 
 is awed rather by the magnificence of the rooms than 
 by the exhibits they contain. 
 
 "Room III is for works of the most ancient period of 
 Grecian and Etruscan artists. Room IV is really the first 
 room that warms the blood in your veins, and heightens 
 your expectation. It is called the Aeginsten Saal, from 
 the fact that its most striking feature is two gables from 
 a temple in Aegina, representing the contest between 
 Trojans and Greeks for the dead body of Achilles, Mi- 
 nerva intervening to secure it to the latter, and the com- 
 bat between Hercules and Telamon on one side and 
 Laomedon on the other, five life-size figures in the lat- 
 ter and ten in the former, mostly in good state of preser- 
 vation, and filled out by Thorwaldsen where not, so that 
 the splendid groups are given us in the order and as they 
 looked in the temple itself of enormous importance 
 to students of the art. 
 
 "Apollo, Bacchus,and Niobe halls follow,named after
 
 C '33 ] 
 
 their principal statues, with many specimens of the best 
 period of Grecian sculpture, that of Phidias and his pu- 
 pils; and then separating these from the so called Roman 
 Room and Hero Room are two ante-chambers of fres- 
 coes by Cornelius, in the Goffer and Trojaner Sa/en, with 
 three large subjects and minor ones in the former,one for 
 each division of the God Kingdom: Heaven, Hell, and 
 the Sea; and in the latter,incidents from theTrojanWar; 
 these and a hundred other objects of the master's indus- 
 try, indicating that what I said of Schwanthaler with 
 the chisel is as justly applicable to him with the brush. 
 "A room of work in colored marble and then we come 
 to the last and very interesting one, for it confronts us 
 not only with works but also names which in almost all 
 the other rooms are missing : Canova gives us two statues 
 of Paris ; Thorwaldsen an Adonis and a bust of Ludwig ; 
 Rauch, Admiral Tromp; Tenerani, a Vesta; and Eber- 
 hard,Busch,Dannester,Wolf,Freund and the two Scha- 
 dows, specimens that do these no disgrace in appearing 
 by their side. 
 
 "NEUE PlNAKOTHEK. 
 
 "Tuesday, June 26, '77. This does better credit to 
 Munich as an exhibition and is the best display of mod- 
 ern pictures that I have yet seen, though containing 
 much that is but mediocre and omitting many names 
 even among the Germans (for foreign schools are wholly 
 neglected) that deserve to figure even in the Pinakotkek, 
 in its ideal.
 
 ['34] 
 
 "The names that most interest us are Kaulbach and 
 Piloty,as historical painters; Zimmermann and Roth- 
 mann, as landscape painters ; H. Hess and Schrandolph, as 
 religious painters; then Schorn,Riedel, Adam, and Over- 
 bach, the brighter stars of the galaxy which has grown 
 out of Ludwig's liberal policy many of whom, too, in 
 his visit to Italy while Crown Prince were his boon com- 
 panions (Piloty, of course, belonging to a later day, and 
 being the Kaulbach of Ludwig II). Of Kaulbach, the 
 gallery has, in the first place, the extensive sketches for 
 the frescoes on the outside of the building, executed by 
 Nilson, being a history of the efforts of Ludwig in Rome 
 and Munich as Crown Prince and King in the interest 
 of art, and with numerous portraits of the artists who 
 under different circumstances and in all fields seconded 
 their monarch's work effectually, and whose names are 
 constantly figuring in these notes. Then, too, he gives us 
 a fine portrait of Ludwig, which greets the visitor on his 
 entrance. And best of all, his magnificent, well-known 
 Destruction of Jerusalem, the sketch for one of the six 
 frescoes for the National Museum of Berlin, which prob- 
 ably are the best work he has given us, including as they 
 do, the Fall of Babel, the Golden Age of Greece, the 
 Himmelschlacht, the Appearance of the Crusaders before 
 Jerusalem, and the Reformation. Piloty gives us but lit- 
 tle, but that enough to indicate that he is a master and 
 possesses not only a vigorous imagination, but also a po- 
 etical one, and the huge Thusnelda in the triumphal 
 procession into Rome and before the stern Germanicus,
 
 C'35] 
 
 recalls Makart, while it overreaches him. In the same 
 noble style is his Seni before the Corpse of Wallenstein 
 conceived. 
 
 " Both Hess and Schrandolph are very pretentious, and 
 though often very successful, more particularly in in- 
 dividual figures than in general effects, one cannot but 
 think that while the ancients at times become tiresome 
 through the oneness of their themes the religious, yet 
 when a modern attempts the same field, he only suc- 
 ceeds in showing us how little painting has advanced in 
 the last two hundred years and more. 
 
 "Rothman's landscapes have a high reputation, and 
 more on that account than from any pleasure they ex- 
 cited in me do I mention them here. A special room is 
 devoted to his Grecian landscapes, twenty-three in num- 
 ber, which receive a beautiful effect from the peculiar 
 light of the room, which is cut off from the spectators 
 by a sort of middle ceiling. His Italian and Sicilian land- 
 scapes, each with a distich by Ludwig himself, adorn the 
 Arcades in the rear of the Bazar and face the Hof Garten. 
 
 "Zimmermann,however, I consider a great master and 
 his landscapes here, great works. I do not refer to Claude, 
 nor to A., nor to R. S., but to R., whose favorite subject 
 seems to be a landscape in winter, of which he gives us 
 some splendid exemplars. 
 
 " Riedel is also a strong painter among the moderns, 
 and almost every work to which his name is attached 
 here deserves special praise. His figures (and females 
 seem to be favorites with him) have that bright life-like
 
 ['36] 
 
 glow that distinguishes Bouguereau, of whom he de- 
 cidedly reminds me. He gives us a splendid Neapoli- 
 tan fisher family, a Judith, a Mother and Child, and two 
 Italian women all excellent. 
 
 "Schorn is represented only by The Deluge, left un- 
 finished by his death, a large picture of real merit, and 
 though unfinished well deserving to be here. Perhaps 
 that fact makes it all the more interesting. I love to fol- 
 low an artist in his work. 
 
 " Overbach, although he reminds us of Wislicenus, 
 does not justify our expectations, but on the other hand 
 we meet byway of offset strange names, such as Coignet, 
 Calloit, and Lange, who afford us equal surprises, as they 
 do by their Passtum Monks Feeding the Poor and The 
 Gossau Lake at Dawn. Adam is a good painter of ani- 
 mals but his Storming of the Duppeler Schanzen noth- 
 ing extraordinary. Geyer gives us a Capital Council of 
 Physicians, and one of the best genre pictures in the 
 whole collection is The Last of the Masquerade Balls 
 time: leaving of the hall at its conclusion, running over 
 with fun, and expressions excellent. 
 
 " The smaller cabinets occasionally offer something of 
 a striking nature, and in my impatience to get through 
 I shall refer only to M. Muller's Return from the Wed- 
 dingthe bridal party sent off from the Inn where 
 festivities have been held, with music, fireworks, and 
 shooting; a moonlight scene; Capel's Ludwig I; Thor- 
 waldsen, Catel, Ceit, Wagner, and Klenze at a Kneipe, in 
 ; Wilkie's Opening of the Testament before Rela-
 
 C 
 
 tives of the Deceased; and then, sketches out of the re- 
 cent Grecian War, by P. Hess, basis for sketches for the 
 arcades of the Hof Garten. 
 
 "Among the portraits, I still find little affection for 
 Angelica Kaufman but am glad to make the acquaint- 
 ance of Stiller. The Americans for aught I have seen 
 may still be proud of their Baker and Elliott. 
 
 "This gave me a general notion of the pictures in the 
 Neue Pinakotheky and so,with a peep at the Antiquarium, 
 noteworthy only for its fine cork models of such cele- 
 brated ancient houses as the Amphitheatre, Constan tine 
 Arch (Rome), Acropolis (Athens), Pantheon (Rome), 
 Vesta Temple (Tivoli),and Consul's house (Pompeii), 
 as also some gilded bronze nails from the Treasury of 
 the Atrida? in Mycenae (probably obtained at a late date 
 from Schliemann), I went home. 
 
 "Wednesday, June 27, '77. Today I ran about here and 
 there, taking a peep for a few minutes into one corner 
 and then into another and making myself feel at home, 
 as it were, in Munich. I examined the interior of the 
 TheatinerKirche, which is built in the most extravagant 
 form of the Rococo, which in Germany has received the 
 name of Barock, and is a mass of stone ornamentation 
 so much of leaves and flowers and fringes and what not 
 that, as in every case of an overdose, you don't enjoy it 
 at all. Its outer peculiarities consist of two steeples in 
 front and a high cupola over the altar, which stand out 
 prominently in every elevated view of the city. It is in- 
 teresting as the receptacle of the royal bones; the Hof-
 
 burger Charles VI I lies here, too; and Max 1 1 has received 
 a special memorial in the church. St. Gregorius andCan- 
 didus have not only received a like distinction, but their 
 skeletons have been enclosed in rich gold and jeweled 
 armor, and in glass cases under shrines now receive the 
 homage of the faithful. 
 
 "The HofKirche, built by Louis in good Roman style 
 mixed with a little of the Byzantine, is a little gem, and 
 with its pillars of bright colored marble and gilded cap- 
 itals, walls of various colored marbles, and almost every 
 inch of space covered with frescoes on gold background 
 byH. Hess and his pupils, it looks as bright as a holiday. 
 
 "From here I went into the Hof Garten, where stands 
 a fountain with a little nymph by Schwanthaler to crown 
 it, and on all but one side of the square, surrounded by 
 an arcaded terrace with frescoes and encaustics, one side 
 containing the stories of Bozzaris and his brother-heroes, 
 by Hess; another,the landscapes of Rothman; and the 
 third, incidents from Bavarian history (of course, only 
 such as a good citizen likes to be reminded of), by Kaul- 
 bach and others. 
 
 " From here I crossed the old city and through the Carlo 
 Platz came to the Schwanthaler Museum, where the 
 Academy has provided for us casts of most of the works 
 of the masters ; to be sure, not four thousand like Rubens, 
 but still a goodly number and almost all standard. Of the 
 more interesting ones are the Herrman Schlacht for the 
 Walhalla at Regensburg, to fill out a gable, no doubt, as 
 were those of a Parthenon, etc.; the figures and reliefs
 
 C '39 ] 
 
 for the Slawja ; the Ruhmeshalle of Bohemia, where a 
 Catholic Emperor has allowed the memory of a Huss 
 Ziska and Podiebrad to be immortalized ; Bavarian fam- 
 ily for the Residenz; Goethe memorial for Frankfort; 
 Ludwig's in Darmstadt; Carl Friedrich's in Carlsruhe; 
 and a host of others, many of which I have met with in 
 the original in my travels, here as well as elsewhere, and 
 which called up many pleasant reminiscences. 
 
 "Schwanthaler's cousin's son, also a sculptor, has his 
 atelier across the street (Xavier S),and a glance from the 
 window found a full room to testify that the senior's in- 
 dustry, at least, has gone over to him. 
 
 "NATIONAL MUSEUM. 
 
 " Thursday, June 2 8, '77. This is, after all, the greatness 
 of Munich, and the few hours stroll, to which I was 
 obliged to confine myself, through its endless collections 
 fill me with regret that my health and time do not al- 
 low me the study of it that it deserves. It is a combina- 
 tion of all arts, and an exhibit of their development from 
 birth to present maturity, bringing us face to face with 
 all ages and all peoples of which we have knowledge, 
 and giving us the Historische Museum Schatzkammer, 
 Porzellan, Sammlungen, etc., of other cities all in one. 
 
 "I entered first a little room on the ground floor that 
 contains the instruments with which enemies of state and 
 religion were tortured and criminals punished always 
 horrible and often droll. Let us be thankful that they 
 only hang us nowadays. From here I ascended to the first
 
 [ '40] 
 
 floor, where in room after room and in excellent arrange- 
 ment are exhibited instruments of warfare, arranged in 
 chronological order, interspersed with specimens that 
 belonged to those who have left their seal on the page 
 of history, as well as many specimens of civilians' dress, 
 to bring different epochs more closely face to face with 
 the students. Then, too, Ludwig with his usual credit- 
 able love for such an enterprise has willed to the museum 
 his whole wardrobe with that of his wife, the Princess 
 Therese of Sachsen ~H.ildburghausen,vf\ti\ annotations in 
 his own handwriting for those pieces that have become 
 historical. Memorials of Napoleon, Frederich, Tilly, 
 GustavAdolph,etc., etc., abound as usual and bring each 
 time renewed interest, and I can stare and dream for an 
 hour at a time at a sword of one of the French Execu- 
 tive Committee of the great Revolution, by its form as 
 well as its connections recalling the consuls and prastors 
 of a Roman Republic, and wondering at the piety of a 
 man who could be so bloodthirsty as Max I, when I see 
 the altar that followed him about in his campaigns 
 slaughter the heretics and thank God the moment after. 
 Trophies abound,too,and the whole campaign of 1870-1 
 comes back to me, when I see a chasse-potand tabatiere 
 from Bazeilles, a mitrailleuse and an aigle or gendarme 
 breast-plate from Worth. 
 
 "All the rooms of this floor have their walls covered 
 with large paintings, fairly making up the history of Ba- 
 varia and its provinces, the Pfalz, Franken, and Schwa- 
 ben, mostly by young Bavarian artists of unequal merit
 
 but, taken altogether, producing an impressive effect. 
 A room of quaint old instruments (musical) follows the 
 arms collection, and such queer looking pianos, violins, 
 flutes, lutes, bagpipes, and viola de gamba (ce//i) as one 
 finds is a caution. 
 
 " Then a room of the work of the different smith- 
 guilds, in which, of course, Bavaria through her Augs- 
 burg and Niirnberg can make a creditable display. 
 
 "We pass through rooms containing models of old 
 ships and the old cities of Bavaria, and then comes the 
 exhibition of fabrics: laces, embroideries, linens, silks, 
 and velvets in profusion; the Ceramic Collection, as in 
 Dresden,carries us from the simplest unornamented clay 
 and terra-cotta to the magnificent Meissner and Sevres 
 porcelain and to Oriental manufacture. As it is not the 
 specialty that the Porzellan Sammlung in Dresden is, one 
 is not surprised to find it lagging well behind. 
 
 "Glasswork, wood-carving, old Italian playthings fol- 
 low, and then we are prepared to ascend to the second 
 floor, where I was constantly imagining myself back 
 again in the Schatz Kammer on the Elbe for the exhibit 
 in almost every case is a combination of the industrial 
 with the ornamental. 
 
 "Its plan embraces all works of art from the time of 
 the Renaissance to the present and includes the several 
 Schools that have intervened, such as the Rococo and 
 Napoleonic, in systematic groupings. Endless Gobelins 
 take the place of the paintings below, on the walls, and 
 in connection with religious topics and often from such
 
 important cartoons as those of Raphael, cover often the 
 same ground. The exhibit consists of all specimens of fur- 
 niture: broad canopied beds, huge cabinets that might 
 store away a whole household and with innumerable 
 mysterious drawers and slides, chairs of every possible 
 shape but one to insure comfort, stands of wonderful 
 mechanism and beauty, tables of every material from 
 stone to marble and fairly built up of mosaics, and then 
 ivory, amber, enamel, gold, silver, lead, and brass utilized 
 in every imaginable department and often of finest work- 
 manship so you are led from hall to hall and from sur- 
 prise to surprise and yet know that you are not seeing 
 one-half that is being displayed and, hurrying by, do not 
 by nine-tenths appreciate why these things deserve ex- 
 hibition. 
 
 " On the parterre ', one-half the space is devoted to the 
 Gothic period, containing casts and originals from every 
 part of church and house, gravestones, woodwork paint- 
 ing, book illustration, and in a word, everything that is 
 peculiar in the I4th, 1 5th, and i6th centuries. It is an 
 odd collection, and things do not look old-fashioned as 
 above, but moldy and strange enough to remind one of 
 Ante-Diluvian.The other half is devoted to similar ob- 
 jects from Roman times and the wandering of peoples 
 down to the middle ages, though a hurried glance had 
 to satisfy me of this, for I was too wearied to take note 
 of particulars. 
 
 "A garden in the rear contains statues with gravestones 
 transplanted hither, and now anyone who should read
 
 ['43] 
 
 these notes is prepared to begin an intelligent examina- 
 tion of the Bavarian National Museum. 
 
 "Friday, June 29/77. Today is the holiday of Peter 
 and Paul (the German has about three a week and dur- 
 ing the week days sleeps eight hours, eats two, sits three 
 to four hours in the coffee-houses, where he reads the 
 papers and plays cards or billiards, and the balance of the 
 time, except the six hours that he spends in the Gar- 
 ten in the evening, works, I suppose) and the streets and 
 churches show it. Those more liberally disposed have 
 early in the morning gone off upon small excursions in 
 the neighborhood of the city and will make a day of it. 
 In not much of a humor for anything, I sauntered up the 
 Louisen Strasse,took a turn into the Carlo Strasse,where 
 stands the long red St. Boniface Church of Ludwig, con- 
 taining his grave. It is of the greatest importance to my 
 architectural studies, being built in the purest Romanic 
 style, and so I entered to study it though mass was in 
 progress, and whether out of pure delight at seeing me, 
 or not, the choir struck up a Gloria in Excelsis just as I 
 entered the portal. The sight that greets your eyes is a 
 striking one, and the great length of the church with 
 its many columns of bright marble and capitals of fan- 
 tastic shapes that grew out of the religious exaltation of 
 the Byzantines and Mahometans (see Moorish School), 
 with the rich bright frescoes, by Hess, Schrandolph, 
 and others, portraying incidents in the life of the Patron 
 Saint of Germany, Cujus ad honorem t with long rows of 
 popes and saints, makes a lively picture indeed. It is a
 
 genuine Basilica, the roof not vaulted as in the Gothic 
 style but with a low arch bounded by horizontal beams 
 that far from adding to the beauty of the starry firmament 
 beyond only give the church an appearance of ' half- 
 done,' for they suggest scaffolding, and so far as I can see 
 answer no purpose mechanical or otherwise. 
 
 " From here I dropped for a few moments into the Alte 
 Pinakothekj took a better peep at the Rubens Room, and 
 especially at his great Last Judgment, reminding one in 
 the terrible fall of the wicked into the hands of Satan of 
 Milton's grand description of the driving of the rebel- 
 lious angels into Hell. Found one or two good Titians 
 and Teniers that I had not noticed before a splendid 
 series of religious pictures that von derWerff painted ex- 
 presslyfor the Elector John William, one of the founders 
 of the gallery, and then more quietly studied the Raph- 
 ael originals that in unusual number more than for any 
 other reason, perhaps, lend the Pinakothek the import- 
 ance it possesses. Some very early works are but poor 
 scratches and altogether without interest; a portrait of 
 Bindo Altoviti, reminding one strongly of his own face, 
 is decidedly overpainted, and we are obliged to fall back 
 on the Madonna della Tenda (distinguished among art 
 critics as the one of the green curtain) , the Madonna Cani- 
 glani (out of whose house the picture came to the gal- 
 lery), and the Madonna di Tempi (so called from the Casa 
 Tempi in Florence, its former home) . I confess to disap- 
 pointment again, and refuse to recognize in these three 
 pictures which have fame enough among se dit connois-
 
 [ '45 ] 
 
 seurs the genius that could paint a di Sista, Caeci/ia, and 
 other works, which indisputably earn for the master the 
 pinnacle of fame which is accorded to him. But when 
 I have got to make so strong an effort as I had with these 
 pictures to find something that would call forth favor- 
 able criticism I become distrustful, and lay all admira- 
 tion that is drawn out by forceps to the name and not 
 to the work.'
 
 [ '46 ] 
 
 CHAPTER VII 
 
 Jesse Warren Lilienihal: 
 
 The Lawyer 
 
 AR traveling for eighteen months he returned 
 home. When that became known to Har- 
 vard Law School, the faculty paid him the 
 unusual honor of conferring his degree with- 
 out his going through the form of an examination. It 
 was the first occurrence of the kind in the history of 
 the College, an evidence of the high esteem in which 
 he was held, and this great appreciation and compli- 
 ment did much to eliminate the intensity of his previ- 
 ous disappointment. 
 
 After graduating from Harvard on his return from 
 his European tour, he entered the office of Francis N. 
 Bangs. He had the highest admiration for Mr. Bangs' 
 great ability, and developed a sincere friendship for him, 
 which was apparently reciprocated, as evidenced by Mr. 
 Bangs' treatment of him. Of course his position was en- 
 tirely one of a volunteer, seeking for knowledge and 
 experience, and the only reward he asked was to be given 
 as much work as possible. Mr. Bangs took him at his 
 word, and frequently invited him to his home after office 
 hours, where they discussed legal propositions, or as Lili- 
 enthal modestly expressed it, "When Bangs talked and 
 expounded and I listened." His association with Mr. 
 Bangs was among his happiest recollections. He often
 
 ['47] 
 
 quoted Mr. Bangs as saying, "There is no case which 
 cannot be won provided you put sufficient work into it," 
 and this was a principle which he followed throughout 
 his professional career. 
 
 He was offered a junior partnership in an established 
 law firm of the highest reputation but refused it, wishing 
 to reach success through his own efforts. Perhaps in a 
 way a mistake, as it would have meant an easier path, but 
 he never sought the road of least resistance, and his final 
 great success as a lawyer proved his correct judgment, 
 even though the way was fraught with more difficulties. 
 
 In 1 880 he began his law practice in New York, tak- 
 ing as his partner Edward D. Bettens, a fellow student 
 at Harvard and an intimate friend while in college. He 
 rose in his professional career almost immediately. There 
 was little wonder, as he was gifted not only with a mar- 
 velously clear and logical mind, an inexhaustible mem- 
 ory, great concentration, and self-control, but he was 
 willing to give no end of work to anything he under- 
 took. His mind worked quickly in arriving at a conclu- 
 sion, but he was not impulsive about expressing it, and 
 he would weigh well his decision, saying," Let me sleep 
 over it before giving you my opinion." Even though 
 often he arrived at his original conclusion, the exception 
 proved the correctness of his rule. His special and most 
 prominent trait was his insistence in working out his 
 problems to the finest detail, never satisfied until the sub- 
 ject in hand was absolutely clear to him. No work was 
 too trying in disentangling legal propositions.
 
 [i 4 8] 
 
 From 1883 to 1888 he was a member of the Com- 
 mittee on the Amendment of the Law of the Bar Asso- 
 ciation of the City of New York. This was interesting 
 work, bringing him in contact with many prominent 
 and experienced lawyers. Among those associated with 
 him at various times were Sidney Webster, William G. 
 Choate, Clarence A. Seward, John L. Cadwalader,Wil- 
 liam H. Arnoux, J. Bleecker Miller, Charles W. Gould, 
 John W. Simpson, Charles C. Beaman,Jr.,William M. 
 Irvin,William B. Hornblower, Elial F. Hall, Oliver P. 
 C. Billings, Augustus C. Brown, George H. Adams, Lu- 
 cienOudin, Everett P. Wheeler,GeorgeC.Holt,Chaun- 
 cey S.Truax, David J. Dean, Charles W. Bangs, Cephas 
 Brainerd, Charles B.Hubbell, Arthur G. Sedgwick, and 
 Thomas S. Moore. 
 
 He continued with Mr. Bettens until 1893, when ^ e 
 was obliged to leave New York on account of his wife's 
 health. He went to San Francisco, where in 1894 he 
 again began the practice of the law. It took courage to 
 begin life anew in strange surroundings but with his in- 
 domitable will he set to work. His worth and ability 
 were soon discovered, and his speedy success was phe- 
 nomenal. 
 
 After continuous and very active work as a lawyer from 
 i 894 until 1 9 1 o, he began to feel the effect of his stren- 
 uous life and concluded to cry a halt. Up to this time he 
 had no partner; Mr. Albert Raymond, however, was an 
 able assistant. In 1 9 1 o he concluded to divide his work, 
 and formed a partnership with Mr. McKinstry and Mr.
 
 J 49] 
 
 Raymond under the name of Lilienthal, McKinstry,and 
 Raymond, Mr. Joseph Haber, Jr., and Mr. Firebaugh 
 as juniors. 
 
 He was a patient listener, a man of action and not of 
 words and when his heart and head were set upon ac- 
 complishing something he knew to be right, then he 
 handled his subject with the greatest intensity. 
 
 Although an uncompromising fighter when he con- 
 cluded his client was in the right, he never became vin- 
 dictive, insulting, or vituperative towards the opposing 
 lawyer. I have heard it said that in arguing cases of great 
 importance and bitterness he would handle them with 
 so much tact and courtesy that no enmity would ensue; 
 in fact the opposing attorney would shake him by the 
 hand at the end of the argument. The relationship be- 
 tween him and his clients was almost that of father con- 
 fessor. They had the utmost confidence in his advice, 
 and in the majority of cases there existed true friendship 
 which many times developed into real affection. 
 
 He had also the peculiar and unusual experience when 
 drawing up an agreement for his client to have the party 
 on the other side ask his advice, and when answered, 
 "But I am not your lawyer,' 'the response came back, 
 " I need only to look into your eyes to see that you would 
 ask nothing but justice for your client, and that is good 
 enough for me." Could any higher honor have been con- 
 ferred? 
 
 He had a talent too for mediation. He was ever will- 
 ing to listen to both sides of a question, keeping his mind
 
 ['So] 
 
 open, with no preconceived ideas or stubbornness of 
 opinion. I had often thought his vocation should have 
 been that of arbitrator or diplomat, but he eschewed pol- 
 itics, the stepping stone to those careers, heartily dislik- 
 ing the almost obligatory methods necessary to gain the 
 goal. 
 
 During the years 1914, 1915, and 1 9 1 6 he was Presi- 
 dent of the San Francisco Bar Association. 
 
 AN EXPERIENCE IN MEXICO. 
 
 When only thirty-five years old, he had an exceptional 
 diplomatic experience. President Diaz of Mexico called 
 him to the City of Mexico to negotiate the State loan 
 which for several years in the past had been in the hands 
 of Berlin bankers who were now in disfavor with Diaz 
 and he was anxious for a change. Jesse W. Lilienthal com- 
 bined with New York and London bankers and formed 
 a syndicate. With a representative of the bankers, he left 
 New York in June, 1 890, expecting to consummate the 
 negotiation very quickly, as the call was unsolicited and 
 he took it for granted that Diaz would have little more 
 to do than arrange the contract by mutual agreements. 
 They were requested to come to Mexico incognito, how- 
 ever, as the mission was, at first, to be a secret one. 
 
 Diaz's representative met them at San Antonio and 
 promised an interview with the President on their ar- 
 rival in the City of Mexico. It took place the following 
 day and the reception was most cordial and gratifying. 
 Everything looked encouraging. He describes Diaz as
 
 ['5'] 
 
 "a brilliant, dashing, hearty young fellow, but a man to 
 be conjured with, and he was a tyrant in Mexico as abso- 
 lute and arbitrary as the Czar." After being in the City 
 of Mexico a few days, to his surprise he discovered be- 
 sides the Berlin bankers many competitors were in the 
 field, moving heaven and earth to gain the loan and keep- 
 ing his syndicate jumping like grasshoppers. He writes: 
 " I began to realize better how difficult my task may be 
 and one to be handled with great tact and finesse, but 
 'faint heart ne'er won* and I shall win if I get a chance 
 to fight on the merits." 
 
 He had also the syndicate bankers to consider and con- 
 tend with, as they were set and finicky in their demands. 
 
 When he had been in Mexico some time it became 
 known to the Berlin bankers that they had a serious rival 
 and one favored by the President, whereupon they used 
 all kinds of underhand methods to oppose the scheme, 
 even to approaching the Secretary of Finance, who be- 
 trayed Lilienthal's syndicate by keeping the Berlin bank- 
 ers informed of their offers and plans. 
 
 He writes : "Altogether the situation is very trying and 
 embarrassing but I must confess that as yet it only spurs 
 me on to redoubled efforts. It is absolutely impossible to 
 forecast the result, but as yet there is no sign of a break 
 in my forces. I believe that Diaz is loyal to me, but at 
 the same time to his government. On June 26 we had 
 a meeting with the President which opened with the 
 decision that even though our conditions might be very 
 favorable, he could not award the contract to us at a
 
 [ '52 ] 
 
 price lower than the Berlin bankers might bid. His duty 
 to the country forbade that. This action was most cred- 
 itable, but this great competition makes the bid almost 
 prohibitory and I fear our syndicate will be discouraged 
 and give up the entire negotiation. 
 
 " I have no reason to anticipate failure, but this is a 
 strange country in which it would take a bolder man 
 than I am to undertake to anticipate anything. I feel as 
 if I were qualified for the most delicate diplomatic mis- 
 sion after this experience, not but what we are keeping 
 quite along the straight line of conscience ourselves, but 
 there is a good deal of lack of it among some of the offi- 
 cials whose influence we have got to encounter.The best 
 of them all is the President himself, who is assuming 
 quite dignified,yes, even heroic proportions in my eyes. 
 
 "'Mananajnanana' (tomorrow, tomorrow),that is the 
 curse of this country. When one thinks the end is in sight, 
 postponementagain appears onthescene Mexican fash- 
 ion of procrastination. * Tomorrow it will be arranged 
 sure'; I have heard this now nearly daily for a week. I 
 do not believe that there is a court in the world with 
 more intrigue and mystery than this one, and there are 
 matters occurring here every day which would make the 
 old sphinx look like mere child's play. De la Torre, son- 
 in-law of the President, assures us that matters could not 
 look more favorable, but that we must be patient. My 
 one hope is that the President called for me to come on 
 to do this business, and I suppose he knew what he was 
 about."
 
 ['S3] 
 
 "July 1 2, i 890. I do begin to feel a little battered after 
 the experience of the last weeks. At least, I have the sen- 
 sation that attends a landing from a very tempestuous 
 voyage and I can not yet be absolutely sure that the haven 
 in question is one of rest, but tonight the outlook is cer- 
 tainly one of that nature, as Diaz has assured us today by 
 letter, over his own autograph, that the contract: will be 
 awarded to us. We will soon prepare for our departure." 
 
 "The following morning,very early, there was a knock 
 at our door and DelaTorre in great excitement informed 
 us that Diaz 'wishes an audience/ 1 could see things were 
 not serene. We went to Chapultepec immediately, met 
 the President, who with bowed head and deep mortifi- 
 cation, stated he must ask us to release the loan, as, with- 
 out his knowledge, a secret contract had been signed by 
 his London agent and the German bankers. The Ger- 
 man government has interfered in their behalf threaten- 
 ing international complications should the contract not 
 be awarded to the German bankers, stating they would 
 send German gunboats to Vera Cruz, which with their 
 superior force was a simple matter. 
 
 "Thepurchasingprivilegehadbecomesomuchhigher 
 than our syndicate anticipated that the cream of the ne- 
 gotiation had been destroyed." 
 
 It was naturally a great disappointment to him, for 
 had he succeeded it would have been a great victory for 
 him and an enormous fee the reward. As was his wont, 
 he accepted his defeat gracefully and he states: "The trip 
 and the loss of time can be charged to the account of
 
 ['54] . 
 
 experience, a luxury for which every man must pay, and 
 I will not say that the investment is not a good one."
 
 CHAPTER VIII 
 The United Railroads 
 
 As PRESIDENT. 
 
 1x1913 out of a clear sky came the call from New 
 York bankers to accept the presidency of the U nited 
 Railroads of San Francisco. Mr. Lilienthal at this 
 time was considering the lessening of his labors gen- 
 erally, and had almost determined to limit his legal prac- 
 tice to consultation and devote himself to literary work, 
 more particularly with reference to legal propositions. 
 He therefore very seriously hesitated to accept the call, 
 and it was only after consultation with a number of 
 prominent San Francisco men that he was persuaded to 
 do so. He realized the great responsibility he was under- 
 taking and that it would be at a great sacrifice should 
 he accept the offer, but he felt that he might be able to 
 raise the Road out of the very unpopular position it oc- 
 cupied. 
 
 In an interview with a San Francisco newspaper, he 
 said: 
 
 " The offer came as a complete surprise to me. I had no 
 intimation that any change was pending in the management 
 of the United Railroads or that I was being considered. In 
 reply to the offer I asked for time to consider it. Later, upon 
 request, I went to New York for a conference with some of 
 the largest stockholders of the company, at which time I was 
 again pressed to accept the offer. I again begged for more
 
 ['56] 
 
 time and said that I 'would give a definite answer after a 
 rest of a few weeks. I went to Europe, and, upon my return 
 the latter part of last month, gave my acceptance. I gave 
 my acceptance, however, on the condition that I be given full 
 power in the local management of the road and be empow- 
 ered to surround myself with a board of directors in whom 
 both myself and the people of San Francisco would have 
 confidence. 
 
 "When the proposal was made and the agreement reached 
 on my own terms, I saw in it the opportunity to do a great 
 service to my city. It is my ambition, and that was my only 
 inducement in accepting the presidency of the United Rail- 
 roads, to bring the public and the company into more cordial 
 relationship. 
 
 "/ am a very busy man and have a successful practice 
 which it is not my intention to abandon. 1 also am much in- 
 terested in charity and social service work, all of which is 
 exacting upon my time, but I felt that I would like to make 
 this new obligation and duty relative to the mutual under- 
 standing of the company and the public my life work. I feel 
 that it is a chance for a big public service; possibly I may 
 not succeed, but that will be my ambition and my effort. 
 
 "I have tried to get .all the light possible on the subject 
 since my return from the East and to this end I have held 
 conferences with a number of men who?n I think the public 
 would have confidence in as officials of the road and who at 
 the same time would subserve the best interest of the stock- 
 holders. 
 
 " The United Railroads have had a hard time during the
 
 ['57] 
 
 last five or six years. It is almost enough to bring the tears 
 to your eyes. I believe that they are still laboring under the 
 public disapproval incurred by the old management. I want 
 to exchange that feeling for public confidence. If any man 
 in San Francisco, I do nt care who he is, has occasion to 
 complain of my management, I hope he will let me know. 
 
 "I may, and probably shall, make mistakes of judgment, 
 but I will not make mistakes of intention." 
 
 Just about this time a bond issue for construction of 
 a municipal line was to be voted upon, and owing to the 
 great unpopularity of the United Railroads and also the 
 desire to give the Panama-Pacific Exposition the best 
 street railway facilities, the result was most favorable to 
 the municipal line; but instead of feeling antagonistic 
 to the idea of a rival to the United Railroads, he stated: 
 
 "I believe that yesterday' s vote clears the atmosphere. I be- 
 lieve that the people of San Francisco will now be in a frame 
 of mind to aft justly and prudently. 
 
 "When the proposal was Jirst made to me to take this work 
 and the pending bond election was discussed, I expressed my- 
 self as believing that if private capital was not to be allowed 
 to build more street railroads in San Francisco the only al- 
 ternative was for the city to build them itself. 
 
 "I shall certainly not do anything to place any obstacle 
 in the way of the city selling the bonds now authorized. I 
 conceive that I have undertaken the management of a street 
 railroad not politics. 
 
 " Whatever proposals may come from the city for co-oper- 
 ation in the operation of the municipal lines and the United
 
 C'58] 
 
 Railroads I shall welcome, and as far as the financial in- 
 terests of the property I manage will permit, I will accept. 
 
 " 'This applies as well to any proposal for co-operation in 
 furnishing transportation to the Exposition which may be 
 presented to me. 
 
 "As attorney for the Presidio and Ferries Company I never 
 found that the city authorities were unreasonable in their at- 
 titude toward the company. My new position will oblige me 
 to resign from the Union Street road, but I anticipate the 
 same sort of frank relationship with the city authorities in 
 my new position" 
 
 "If the city were to make an offer today to buy the entire 
 United Railroads system I would we /come it gladly. And 
 if it were found possible to agree on a valuation I would do 
 everything in my power to promote the transaction. 
 
 "But I believe that in the long run municipal ownership 
 must be weak and not as efficient as operation by private 
 corporation officers. 
 
 " If a proposition were to be made to me for co-operation 
 between the city and the company in furnishing transporta- 
 tion to the Exposition, with the conditions that the operation 
 should be in the hands of the company, and that the company 
 should assist in finding a buyer for the bonds, I would wel- 
 come it gladly and start for New York tomorrow to sell the 
 bonds." 
 
 In addition to the competition of the municipal line, 
 the jitneys were in full force. Thus the task which Mr. 
 Lilienthal was undertaking was made even more diffi- 
 cult.
 
 ['59] 
 
 He entered upon the duties of President August 28, 
 1913. To support Mr. Lilienthal, the following direc- 
 tors were chosen: John A. Buck, J . C. McKinstry , Albert 
 H . Payson, Charles N . Black, G. B . Willcut, Washington 
 Dodge, A. W. Foster, Henry T. Scott, Leander Sherman, 
 and B. S. Guinness. 
 
 " Primarily I knew that I must have an harmonious board, 
 made up of my friends and men who could work successfully 
 together. 
 
 "Beyond this were two considerations. I desired men who 
 would inspire the confidence of the people of San Francisco, 
 and I had to have men who were skilled in corporate of airs 
 and were not novices at the work." 
 
 Much speculation was aroused over the possible policy 
 of the new board, and immediately following the elec- 
 tion President Lilienthal issued the following statement 
 which he said outlined his business policy in the manage- 
 ment of the Road: 
 
 "/ have accepted the presidency of the United Railroads 
 of San Francisco only because of my ambition to improve the 
 relations between the company on the one hand and the public 
 and public officials on the other. 
 
 " T. 'he people may be assured that it will be my aim strittly to 
 confine the activities of the company to the operation of street 
 railroads and in a manner that will gvefull recognition to 
 the duties of a public utility. There will be no interference 
 in political controversies, and if any attempt shall ever be 
 made to influence public opinion it will be done openly and 
 in the name of the company.
 
 [i6o] 
 
 " I have no fault to find with those who favor municipal 
 ownership, but I believe that if such ownership should obtain, 
 the actual operation of the properties can, with the greatest 
 good and with the largest profit to the public, be best entrusted 
 to private management under proper public regulation. 
 
 "I shall always be ready to listen to any grievance either 
 on the part of the public, or of any citizens, and the public 
 may be assured that my endeavor will be to operate the road 
 in such a way as to give to the people of San Francisco the 
 most efficient service practicable. 
 
 "Finally, I cordially invite the co-operation of all good citi- 
 zens to the end that the duties imposed upon the company may 
 be adequately performed." 
 
 "I have been busy enough getting acquainted with the staff. 
 For the present I can give out no general outlines of plans 
 for the future, because as yet 1 have formed none. 
 
 "If an improvement of service is to be made under my 
 management it can not be made all of a sudden, and I shall 
 make myself thoroughly acquainted with conditions before 
 laying any radical proposition before the board. 
 
 "I have always followed a policy of being open in my deal- 
 ings, and I find that this pays. In the end it works out best 
 to tell the truth because you have to tell it finally anyway, 
 and I am going to continue this policy in the conduct of the 
 railway service. 
 
 "I have no political affiliations or ambitions. I am not 
 
 seeking anything except to do something for San Francisco. 
 
 If I can succeed in giving the city a good car service, I shall 
 
 feel that I have done well. What methods are followed, no
 
 matter how radical, even to final municipal ownership, make 
 no difference to me. The good service is my object, and with 
 proper co-operation from all concerned, I believe that I shall 
 succeed" 
 
 To redeem his promise to treat the public with every 
 consideration, he established a Bureau of Grievances. 
 
 " I desire at the earliest possible moment to redeem my prom- 
 ise that the United Railroads will treat the public with the 
 consideration that is due to it. The people are entitled to have 
 courteous treatment from the company s employees, to have 
 clean cars to ride in, and the greatest facilities for travel that 
 existing conditions will permit. 
 
 " With a view to that end, I am establishing a bureau of 
 grievances, and I earnestly request all citizens not only to 
 communicate to that bureau at the company's offices all specific 
 instances of the kind in question, but also to make such recom- 
 mendations for the improvement of the service as may occur 
 to them. I promise that these complaints and these recom- 
 mendations will have prompt and earnest consideration" 
 
 Not until some time after Mr. Lilienthal had become 
 President and had examined the affairs of the Railroad, 
 did he discover the unfortunate financial condition of 
 the Road, which had he previously known would have 
 caused his absolute refusal of the Presidency. A less brave 
 and more selfish man would have forsaken his post at 
 once, but he felt that would be cowardice. It was a built 
 road with fine prospects which with proper handling 
 and the encouragement of the public, to which he felt 
 himself entitled, could be rehabilitated; but instead of
 
 [i6a] 
 
 receiving the assistance of those in power he was hec- 
 tored to death. 
 
 " What is there to be said? The facts are set forth in the 
 Railroad Commission's report, and they speakfor themselves. 
 As president of the company, I am in a delicate position, and 
 I do not feel that I should criticize the conduct of my prede- 
 cessor in office. 
 
 4-t/ 
 
 "In one respect I fee I that the commission's report is rather 
 unfair to me, though. I do not think that it should be made 
 to appear that since I have been president of this company 
 any attempt whatever has been made to cover up the finan- 
 cial transactions which occurred previously. 
 
 "As soon as I took office I announced that in the future 
 the United Railroads would confine its attention strictly to 
 the operation of street railways. In the balance sheet which 
 I submitted to the Railroad Commission the entry of Mr. 
 Calhoun s note appeared plainly. There was absolutely no 
 intention or attempt to * cover up' this transaction, so far 
 as I am concerned. When I came into office I discovered 
 
 *JJ 
 
 what had been done that the money was gone but there 
 was nothing I could do except to charge it up to profit and 
 loss. 
 
 " We have Mr. Calhoun' s note for the full amount. I do 
 not know what it is worth. I have appraised it at $1. It 
 surely cannot be worth less. 
 
 "My position, as can be easily seen, was a very delicate 
 one. I came in here with the purpose of building up the credit 
 of the company. I certainly could not afford to court public- 
 ity on such a state of affairs as I found. There was nothing
 
 ['63] 
 
 / could do except to make the best of the situation, and pro- 
 ceed to do what I could to improve the company s status. 
 
 "As soon as I took office the old board of directors 'was re- 
 organized. In place of men who were on the payroll of the 
 company I appointed business men of standing who had no 
 other connexion with the corporation. I have attempted to 
 co-operate in every way with the State Railroad Commission. 
 I was one of the men who helped draft the public utilities 
 aft, and I believe in it thoroughly." 
 
 The animus was not only against the past president but 
 also against the Eastern stockholders. The critics forgot 
 entirely that in lifting the Road out of the wretched con- 
 dition in which Mr. Lilienthal found it he was trying 
 to benefit many people who had invested their savings, 
 both those who could well and many who could ill af- 
 ford the loss encountered. This was the Herculean task 
 which he had assumed. Why not let the dead past bury 
 its dead? A new man had taken the head. A new man 
 was trying to raise the phcenix out of its ashes. How was 
 he assisted? a combination of political conditions and 
 labor unions placing stumbling blocks before his every 
 step; a prejudiced Railroad Commission, unwilling to 
 listen to reason,always thinking of what theUnited Rail- 
 roads had been and never trying to assist in the build- 
 ing up of a Road with great possibilities ; the newspapers- 
 unscrupulous to a degree with one or two exceptions 
 those sufficiently independent to be willing to face and 
 speak the truth doing all in their power to excite an 
 already perhaps rightfully disgusted public.
 
 [i6 4 ] 
 
 Mr. Lilienthal considered his men ahead of the stock 
 and bondholders of the Road, even to the extent of with- 
 holding the dividends in order to improve the Road and 
 assist hisemployees.Hehad voluntarily raised their wages 
 several times, and in fa6t many employees who had been 
 long in the employ of the Road were receiving higher 
 wages than those of the municipal line. 
 
 He inaugurated life insurance for all men, irrespective 
 of their physical condition and free of all expense for pre- 
 miums; created a fund to protect the employees from 
 loan sharks, concerning which he says: 
 
 "I am free to give the underlying reasons which have 
 prompted the company to test the plan. 1 believe it is a wise 
 and proper thing to do, because I do not believe that any cor- 
 poration gets the best of service from employees u'ho are wor- 
 ried or bothered about financial matters. 
 
 "Any man who is working steadily for a fair rate of re- 
 muneration should have some place to go when he needs an 
 accommodation. Irecognize that at the present time the salary 
 loa?i man is about the only source of money for many worthy 
 men. The banks will not loan to these people and )n any of them 
 have no direction in which to turn. Tet they are honest and 
 in many instances, due to illness and other good reasons, their 
 need for accommodation is great. 
 
 " There is no reason why such people should pay exorbitant 
 rates of interest. Surely character is an asset. 
 
 " The United Railroads will have a department to which 
 its employees who are needing money may turn. If the record 
 of the applicant is good, if the requirement is a legitimate one,
 
 I [165] 
 
 there will be no necessity for this employee to go further for 
 money i because it will be supplied. 
 
 "The mode of repayment will be easy and plenty of time 
 will be allowed. In other words , the aim of this department 
 will be to meet a demand that I am sure exists among sala- 
 ried people everywhere. 
 
 " I am just enough of a believer in human nature to think 
 that with this department in operation we will build closer 
 relations with the employees and that any money which may 
 come from this fund will be regarded as a debt of honor by 
 every employee who makes use of this avenue for securing a 
 loan in times of stress. 
 
 "If the plan of the United Railroads prove a success I 
 should like to see other corporations adopt the same course, for 
 I am informed that corporation employees are considered as 
 especially good risks by the salary loan concerns.'' 
 
 He published a magazine to enable the men to dis- 
 cuss freely their problems and wants. In the editorial of 
 the first issue, he writes: 
 
 " Tour president meant just what he said in his bulletin 
 of March so, 1914* We are in the same boat. He is an 
 employee of the United Railroads just as you are. He wants 
 to get personally acquainted with you and your families. He 
 wants to be judged by the same standards by which you are 
 judged. 
 
 "He wishes that he could meet you all frequently in per- 
 son , so that we might counsel together for our mutual welfare 
 and that of the public and of the company. But with thirty- 
 Jive hundred employees that is impossible. lam only too willing
 
 ['66] 
 
 to come to your balls and to your recreation rooms , but there 
 is not enough of that. 
 
 " For that reason and in order to furnish a means of com- 
 municating 'with each other, and getting at each other, we 
 have established this magazine. Each one of you will re- 
 ceive a copy and each one of you is earnestly requested from 
 time to time to contribute something to its pages that you think 
 will interest your fellow employees. 
 
 "Anything will be welcome that will tend to make us better 
 acquainted with each other. 
 
 " his first effort is but a suggestion of the possibilities in 
 this field. We solicit criticism both favorable and unfavor- 
 able. If you think of other departments that should be added, 
 tell us about them; if some of the established departments are 
 superfluous we should be glad to hear of it. Only the best can 
 be obtained by the elimination of the undesirable, so let us have 
 your opinion. 
 
 " We have taken our first dive into the sea of journalistic 
 endeavor and the sun spots indicate a fair passage. How- 
 ever, sink or swim, it is up to you to put us in the lead, so 
 get busy and contribute" 
 
 He encouraged all kinds of recreation: 
 
 "/ have asked the editor of this magazine to devote him- 
 self especially to developing recreation features anything 
 that will relieve the drudgery of life. Baseball, boxing, bil- 
 liards, band music, dances, talks, gymnastics all of these 
 things, in my opinion, should be encouraged and developed. 
 To the extent that the men prefer to provide these things for 
 themselves, they should of course not be interfered with. But
 
 I [167] 
 
 if any financial assistance from the company to further these 
 objects should be desired it would be forthcoming, and, as one 
 of you, I should welcome the right to participate with you 
 in all of these diversions" 
 
 He gave private advice to the men, who were always 
 welcome. His door was open to them and they took ad- 
 vantage of his offer by going to him with their personal 
 affairs. 
 
 The majority of the men were most appreciative, hap- 
 py, and contented. 
 
 " Editor Daily News: Replying to ' Union Motormanj I 
 wish to say that I have been in the employ of the United Rail- 
 way Co. as a conductor for the past seven years, and have 
 always found the officers of the concern fair in every respect. 
 In fact, lean cite numerous cases where employees have been 
 to see the general superintendent (in Eastern cities you might 
 as well try to see the Czar of Russia), and been reinstated 
 for various offenses. 
 
 "As for the president of this concern, if all men had the 
 goodness of heart that Mr. Lilienthal possesses this would be 
 one grand world to labor in. I had the pleasure of witnessing 
 Mr. Lilienthal leading the grand march at a ball given by 
 carmen, and have never seen or heard of one holding a similar 
 position over a corporation of this kind doing likewise. 
 
 "I presume one who is pessimistic as you, will say that he 
 had reasons. What reasons? Can you name any large city, 
 of half a million or over, that pays a higher maximum rate 
 of wages'? This is unskilled labor, yet the run which I operate 
 pays me a salary of$2$.I$ per week. I am acquainted with
 
 [i68] 
 
 numerous so-called $5 per day skilled mechanics, who are 
 only partially employed, that I am able to loan money to at 
 the end of the year. 
 
 " As for swing runs ; I never saw so few in a city of this 
 size. Anyone taking up street railwaying for a livelihood 
 who cannot work for the United Railroads had better change 
 his vocation. "A Contented Conductor" 
 
 But the more contented the men, the more the Union 
 Labor leaders were rankled. They scoffed at welfare 
 work, hammering away their hardest and inciting the 
 men to revolt, particularly those too weak to reason for 
 themselves. 
 
 The great bone of contention was the non-unionizing 
 of the men, and almost from the very beginning there 
 was trouble. Mr. Lilienthal realized that the financial 
 condition of the Road would not permit of the ever- 
 changing demands of the labor leaders. 
 
 In 1915 when the Exposition was in full blast, the ag- 
 itators considered the time propitious for a strike and 
 did everything within their power to cause one. Neither 
 the public nor the men were to be considered so long 
 as the Unions gained their point, but fortunately they 
 were frustrated in their efforts and the strike was averted. 
 
 "From an article in one of our San Francisco dailies we 
 learn that the employees of the ^United Railroads have signed 
 an agreement not to strike during this, the Exposition year. 
 
 " 7 'his is certainly a wise decision, and reflects credit on 
 the wisdom and sagacity of the street railroad men. 
 
 "And in this connection we would venture the assertion
 
 [i6 9 ] 
 
 that if the men were left alone and not interfered with by 
 agitators from other parts of the country there would never 
 have been any concerted effort in the direction of a strike at 
 this time. With such a man as Jesse W. Lilienthal at the 
 head of the United Railroads there never should be a strike, 
 and if there is, we believe the fault will not lie with him. 
 
 " Strikes are bad at any time, and like war between nations 
 should be avoided when possible. 
 
 "We want no strike of any kind in San Francisco." 
 
 Mr. Lilienthal sent to the Fresno Republican the follow- 
 ing letter: 
 
 " San Francisco, May 5, /^/f. 
 
 " Editor Republican : I am smarting under the criticism 
 contained in your editorial of the 2nd inst., because, for one 
 thing, I covet the good will of such a newspaper as yours, 
 and, secondly, because I do not think that I deserve it. 
 
 " Unless the memorials and communications that I have 
 been getting from the platform men of the United Railroads 
 involve the rankest hypocrisy, the men are 'satisfied? with the 
 conditions of their employment. 
 
 " Through conditions over which I have no control, I am 
 placed in an incongruous position. I have always recognized, 
 and do now recognize, the right of employes to organize, but in 
 this particular instance organization would inevitably mean 
 a demand for the same wages and hours on the United Rail- 
 roads that are granted by the municipal lines, and the only 
 reason why I do not concede those conditions is that the finan- 
 cial position of the United Railroads does not permit of it. 
 
 "I must assume that if a union makes demands that are
 
 [ '70] 
 
 rejected, a strike would follow. Indeed, this was substan- 
 tially conceded by the committee of supervisors with whom I 
 conferred on the subject. I know that a strike would be a 
 calamity for the company, and I think that it would be for 
 the public and the men. 
 
 " While I do not ask you to publish this, I would be glad 
 to have you do so, although really my only purpose in writ- 
 ing it is to endeavor to set myself right with you. 
 " Tours very truly, 
 
 W. Lilienthal, President." 
 
 THE LARGER ASPECTS OF WELFARE WORK. 
 
 In October, 1 9 1 5, the following address was delivered 
 by Mr. Lilienthal before the American Railway Associ- 
 ation: 
 
 " *T/ie subject of this address may have been meant to have 
 reference to what an employer does for his employees or to 
 what the utility does for the public at large, or both. It will 
 be assumed, however, that welfare work for any is for the 
 welfare of all. 
 
 11 Public welfare is a varying quantity and very often an 
 elusive quantity. For one thing, public welfare may mean 
 what is actually for the public weal or it may mean what 
 the public believes to be for its own welfare. And it may 
 mean one thing at one time and another thing at another time, 
 or one thing in one place and another thing at a dijferent 
 place. So it may be, as it has now become the fashion to pro- 
 claim, that what is best for the public is best for the util- 
 ity. Tet even with this conceded,we shall still Jind ourselves
 
 always brought back to the question of what is really best 
 
 for the public. It sounds Machiavellian to declare that for 
 
 all practical purposes that should be assumed to be for the 
 
 public '/ greatest good which for the moment it deems to be 
 
 for its greatest good. 
 
 "In the man of conscience the feeling is strong that he 
 wishes to guide the people into the right path; that it is not 
 necessary that they must Jirst stumble and fall and bruise 
 themselves before they canjind the right path. We are not 
 all agreed as to this, and yet it is a very practical question 
 that those charged with the duty of managing public utili- 
 ties ought to endeavor to solve correcJly, because on its cor- 
 rect solution depends the success of our management and the 
 right standing before the bar of public opinion. We certainly 
 cannot succeed with the public if it has in its mind any ques- 
 tion in regard to our absolute good faith, whatever the merit 
 or lack of 'it ', in the things that we offer. 
 
 "One of the things making up the so-called public welfare 
 program of the United Railroads of San Francisco was the 
 establishment of a monthly magazine distributed to each of its 
 3,5OO employees, as a means of communication between the 
 men and the company. I contribute in each number a short 
 talk to the men over my signature as president. A little while 
 ago I received a very bright, well-written letter from the wife 
 of a motorman, saying, among other things, that she judged 
 from my articles I often felt 'lonesome! I have been taking 
 a long time to weigh that statement. I may not yet have caught 
 her meaning. Was it that, notwithstanding the earnest effort 
 made to propitiate the public, it had turned the cold shoulder?
 
 [ '72 ] 
 
 And yet we have been doing those things 'which 'were intrin- 
 sically right under every code of morals and 'which also ap- 
 peared to be the things demanded by the existing state of 
 public sentiment. 
 
 "A brilliant journalist, who had read one of these mes- 
 sages to the men in 'which I asked why we had apparently 
 not overcome the popular ill-will toward us, recently said that 
 I was striking a false note. I was told that I should not lose 
 sight of the fact that the company, whether willingly or un- 
 willingly, was a prize participant in a rising economic bat- 
 tle, and that armed peace was the best we could hope for. 
 Furthermore, the only way to make popular what was un- 
 doubtedly an unpopular corporation was to grant to employees 
 all that they wanted and whenever they wanted it; to do the 
 same thing for the city for the benejit of its competing mu- 
 nicipal lines; to surrender to the jitney for love of the little 
 fellow ; to extend service whenever asked for; to equip and 
 operate lines regardless of expense and to reduce fares to the 
 Cleveland basis. 
 
 " I am still smarting under that criticism. 'This doing your 
 duty by the public costs money, and if it breed resentment 
 rather than good-will, or even if it only fail to eliminate exist- 
 ing ill-will, would not the expense better be withheld? I do not 
 forget the exceptional circumstances under which our partic- 
 ular utility is operating. We have a successful and grow- 
 ing municipally owned and operated system, all of it com- 
 petitive to our own, and consequently our company is con- 
 stantly a thorn in the city s side. The municipal lines pay 
 wages and provide conditions that we cannot afford, and this
 
 [ '73 ] 
 
 makes it necessary for us to take the ordinary indefensible 
 position of preventing, while we can, the organization of our 
 men. This in turn makes us anathema with organized labor 
 and its sympathizers. Then, too, the public accepts it as 
 an undoubted fact that we have secured valuable franchises 
 through the bribery of public officials, and the press does not 
 allow it to forget that the so-called graft prosecution failed 
 to secure more than one conviction. 
 
 "WELFARE PLATFORM OF COMPANY. 
 
 " / accepted the presidency of the United Railroads of San 
 Francisco only because I thought that I saw an opportunity 
 to render public service. I meant to start right with the pub- 
 lic, and to that end began my administration with a formal 
 statement a sort of confession of faith in which 1 acknowl- 
 edged it to be the primary duty of a public utility to serve the 
 public adequately and considerately. I pledged the company 
 to keep scrupulously out of politics and promised that, if an 
 attempt were ever made to influence public opinion, it would 
 be done openly and in the name of the company. I declared 
 it as my only motive for taking office that I was ambitious to 
 improve the relations between the people and the company, and 
 invited the frankest criticism and the most cordial co-opera- 
 tion on the part of the public to that end. Finally, in recogni- 
 tion of the strong sentiment in favor of municipal ownership 
 that had been manifested in a recent election held to provide 
 money for the extension of the city lines, I declared that I had 
 no fault to find with the advocates of municipal ownership 
 even of street car lines, but believed that if such ownership
 
 ['74] 
 
 should obtain Jhe properties themselves could be operated 'with 
 the greatest good and with the largest projit to the public if 
 intrusted to private management under public regulation. 
 
 "TREATMENT OF EMPLOYEES. 
 
 " Then, with the desire to treat the employees as generously 
 as the revenues of the company would permit and at least as 
 well as they would be treated by impartial arbitrators (in 
 the case of an organization formed, demands made and re- 
 fused, and a strike threatened), we voluntarily granted a sub- 
 stantial increase of wages. We devised a plan for insuring 
 the lives of all employees for a period of three years and up- 
 ward, without any physical examination on behalf of the 
 insurance company and without any cost to the men for pre- 
 miums or otherwise, the families of the three-year men re- 
 ceiving $250 in case of death in the service, of the four-year 
 men $500, and of those having served jive years or upward 
 $I,OOO. Each employee was allowed to selecJ his own bene- 
 jiciary arbitrarily. This insurance meant giving to the men 
 something that many of them, quite apart from the expense 
 of insurance, could not give themselves. The man with tuber- 
 culosis, with cancer, with Bright' s disease or with a weak 
 heart was insured along with those who were organically 
 sound. This was better than a wage increase, for there was 
 no assurance that any of the latter would be husbanded. 
 
 " Then, realizing as a paramount duty that as far as pos- 
 sible we must stop killing and maiming people and that to 
 accomplish this we must depend on the vigilance, the loyalty 
 and the intelligence of the platform men, we said that, tak-
 
 I [175] 
 
 ing the sum paid in the previous year by 'way of damages for 
 injury to persons or property as a basis, we proposed to give 
 the entire amount that might be saved over this sum in suc- 
 ceeding years to these platform men in the exact proportion 
 represented by the time contributed to the service. 
 
 "Finally, it appeared upon investigation that many of our 
 employees had fallen into the hands of loan sharks and were 
 paying as high as ten per cent a month for loans. Many of 
 these men had the best of records, with excellent characters, 
 but through stress of outside claims, sickness in the family, 
 Jinancial distress and the like, had found their wages inade- 
 quate for meeting abnormal conditions and had nothing to take 
 to the pawnbroker or remedial loan association as collateral. 
 We said to such men: 'We will lend you the money that you 
 need, without any security, taking from you simply your own 
 promissory notes, payable in such installments as you may 
 yourselves determine to be practicable in view of other de- 
 mands upon you, and bearing interest at the rate of Jive per 
 cent per annum.* Our files are now full of grateful acknowl- 
 edgments for this aid, testifying eloquently to the good accom- 
 plished. 
 
 "RESPONSE OF THE PUBLIC. 
 
 " When this program was announced we felt that the new 
 management was keeping faith and looked for grateful re- 
 sponse on the part of the public. 'There was a great deal of 
 commendation, to be sure, but I am not certain that the true 
 sentiment of the people at large was not voiced by a promi- 
 nent and influential local newspaper, which said editorially
 
 ['76] 
 
 in double-leaded type: tC The street car 'workers are men; they 
 are not children to be coddled. President Lilienthal and his di- 
 rectorate should have heard what Lincoln Steffens and Austin 
 Lewis told the New Era Club about welfare work the other 
 day.' Welfare work! 'The United Railroads might as well 
 save its time and money. ' The only way to help labor,' said 
 Lincoln Steffens, 'is to help labor to help itself. ' In other words, 
 employees want nothing from employers that they do not de- 
 mand and demand in a position where they can enforce their 
 demands. 
 
 "I have always believed in labor unions. Perhaps I do not 
 believe in them so much as formerly. It is, of course, an in- 
 defensible position to maintain that employees shall not be 
 permitted to organize. Even advocates of the open shop stop 
 short of that. Yet in San Francisco we are confronted by a 
 condition and not a theory. Organization of the company 's 
 employees would mean inevitably and logically a demand for 
 the same wages, hours and other conditions that are conceded 
 by the municipal lines, under the terms of the city charter, 
 to men working on a track literally alongside of our own. A 
 demand would mean a refusal, because the company cannot 
 concede the demand, and a refusal would me an a strike, which 
 would be a calamity for the company, the public and the men. 
 We have, therefore, been placed in the incongruous position 
 of having to discharge men whose only fault may have con- 
 sisted of joining the union, because the alternative was in- 
 evitable disaster. 
 
 " // does not seem to be enough to be good 364. days in the 
 year. Tou must be good the whole 365 days, and to be good
 
 I C '77 ] 
 
 you must do the things that the public 'wants you to do and 
 refrain from doing those things to 'which it objects. We have 
 tried \ in the interest of peace and good feeling, to meet this view, 
 too. At the outset of my administration I said that I 'would 
 always grant to the city anything that it wished, but that I 
 had no right to forget that, just as officials of the city were 
 trustees of the people, I was a trustee for the creditors and stock- 
 holders of the company and therefore must e xatt a reasonable 
 equivalent for any property rights surrendered. Yet we dis- 
 covered in a recent experience that we had been sowing the 
 wind. Such an equivalent for a right proposed to be surren- 
 dered was recently asked by the company and promptly con- 
 ceded by the Board of Supervisors. Their ordinance carrying 
 out the terms of the agreement, however, was vetoed by the 
 Mayor, a majority but not a sufficient number of the super- 
 visors voting to override the veto. The right in question was 
 therefore exercised by the city without giving the equivalent. 
 Upon an appeal to the courts the company's mot ion for an in- 
 junction to restrain the exercise of the right was granted. Un- 
 fortunately, however, this has proved to be a case of being good 
 only 364 days in the year, and apparently in consequence of 
 our legal victory the company is once more under the ban of 
 excommunication. The injunction, at this time of writing, is 
 being violated, and boastingly violated, forcing the company 
 to contempt proceedings. 
 
 '''What moral shall we deduce from all this? What is the 
 public welfare? And what should be the course of conduct 
 of a public utility ? It is, of course, axiomatic that in things 
 done or omitted the presumption is in favor of a popular pub-
 
 [i 7 8] 
 
 lie utility, assuming that any such exists, and against the un- 
 popular public utility. When the latter takes a step forward 
 in a matter that should 'win popular approval, it is likely to 
 be charged with moving from fear and not from public spirit 
 or the desire for public welfare. Yet is that a reason for not 
 making the effort to propitiate the public shall we refrain 
 from taking this step forward because our motive in so doing 
 may be impugned? 
 
 "CoDE OF COMMANDMENTS. 
 
 "/ have laid down for myself the following code of com- 
 mandments to govern my management: 
 
 "/. Accept loyally and without reservation the now uni- 
 versally proclaimed doftrine that a public utility is the ser- 
 vant of the people. 'The courts of last resort have so declared, 
 and the public utilities have bowed their heads in meek sub- 
 mission. Whatever the resources or lack of resources of the 
 utility, adequate service must be rendered. The requisite capi- 
 tal must somehow be provided, the matter of adequate return 
 being irrelevant, except in the sense that the right exists to ap- 
 peal to the rate-making bodies to provide for reasonable com- 
 pensation for the services rendered. Do not wait until pres- 
 sure is brought to compel adequate service. Anticipate the 
 public demand. Keep your door wide open to every complaint. 
 Forestall criticism by inviting recommendations, and in all 
 close cases give the public the benefit of the doubt. 
 
 "2. Give the affairs of the utility the widest publicity. The 
 public is entitled to know what you are doing and how you 
 are getting on. Conditions may be unfavorable, and you may
 
 I ['79] 
 
 fear that publicity might affett your credit, but you should 
 not ask for credit that you do not deserve, and perhaps your 
 misfortunes when frankly told may beget the public sympathy 
 and good-will which you so sorely need. Nothing is so engag- 
 ing as complete candor. When I have been interviewed by 
 the reporter of a newspaper, however unfriendly, I have an- 
 swered every question direcJly and fully. As a result it has 
 happened to me at least once that when such candor has not 
 changed the tone of the unfriendly newspaper the reporter has 
 insisted that this attitude be changed or that someone else be 
 assigned to his task. I have gone to men who have assailed 
 me and sought to explain to them my reasons for doing the 
 things that they have criticised. This has sometimes led to a 
 change of front, or, as in the case of at least one newspaper 
 editor, to a statement that my position was justified, but that 
 his newspaper to hold its circulation must continue to print 
 the news to please patrons. 
 
 "J. Treat your employees fairly and, as far as your re- 
 sources will permit, generously. The man who is well fed and 
 wellc lot he d, who has a reasonable amount of time for play and 
 recreation, who is in a position to save a lit tie for a rainy day 
 or toward the owning of his own home, who feels that his supe- 
 riors are always ready to receive suggestions or to redress real 
 or imaginary grievances, who is not exposed to nagging and 
 hectoring by officious subaltern officers, who enjoys the right of 
 appeal, who is made to feel that all the employees of the com- 
 pany, from the president down, are members of one family, 
 each having the same paramount duty to serve the public and 
 the employer such a man will give the best results.
 
 [i8o] 
 
 "It might be well to have a council, composed of repre- 
 sentatives of the men and the chief executive officers of the 
 company, meet once a month to consider measures for the im- 
 provement of the service and the increase of efficiency. The 
 representatives of the men should be selected for a certain pe- 
 riod by secret ballot say one from each car house. In that 
 way the most popular man would be chosen and through him 
 all the employees of that car house would feel that they had a 
 mouth-piece. A new election should perhaps be held every six 
 months or year. This pi an will at least furnish a sort of safety 
 valve without providing much of a nucleus, if any, for agita- 
 tion or organization. 
 
 "4. Keep out of politics. The public utility is the target 
 for the politician. Those who are not venally dishonest have, 
 at least in recent years, found that attacks made upon it are 
 the short cut to popularity. Those who are venal have found 
 the strike bill the most lucrative source of revenue, and it has 
 seemed necessary to go into politics to keep such men out of 
 office. Where the only purpose of the utility in so doing has been 
 to eliminate such as these, the motive is, of course, ethically 
 justifiable. But all know to what abuses this has led. The util- 
 ity, to accomplish practical results, has had to build up a po- 
 litical machine. Having through this machine acquired the 
 power to defeat injustice, to stifle bad bills and prevent biased 
 judgments, it is tempted to use this power for affirmative self- 
 ish ends and the temptation generally proves irresistible. Then 
 the people , feeling themselves throttled, are driven to rebel and 
 are themselves led into excesses by the desire for revenge. It 
 is from these excesses that we are now suffering.
 
 [''] 
 
 alternative remedy involves the next command- 
 ment appeal to the public for fairness and justice. Deem 
 it your right and duty to influence public opinion. Complain 
 of the wrongs that are done to you. Expose the methods of 
 corrupt or unfair politicians. Combat the arguments of muck- 
 rakers and pseudo-reformers. Never allow an untrue charge 
 to remain unchallenged. Circularize the public. Buy space 
 in the newspapers. Participate in public discussions. Above 
 all 9 however, remember that whenever you do anything along 
 these lines you must do it openly and in the name of the com- 
 pany. Do not hide behind reading notices. Do not have paid 
 agents masquerading as independent gladiators. 
 
 "I place my confidence in the ultimate good sense and fair- 
 ness of the people. Our salvation must be worked out through 
 them because after all, under our system of 'government , the 
 power to deal with us rests with them, and we shall not win 
 our battle until we make them feel that we are doing our duty 
 by them. We must be politic enough to recognize our masters 
 and public-spirited enough to be willing to make every effort 
 to deserve the good-will of the people. The task will not be so 
 difficult, if, as we should, we cultivate a frame of mind that 
 makes this a labor of love" 
 
 LABOR AGITATION AND MUNICIPAL COMPETITION. 
 
 Again in July, 1916, the agitators distributed inciting 
 circulars through jitney bus drivers and other channels, 
 announcing that a strike had been called for July 1 4th. 
 The United Railroads men had assured Mr. Lilienthal 
 of their perfect satisfaction and in fact wished to hold
 
 [i8a] 
 
 a mass meeting in order to make it plain how thoroughly 
 contented they were, and in that way they could repu- 
 diate all connection with the outside agitators. Mr. Lil- 
 ienthal requested them, however, to abandon that idea 
 for fear that the Company might be charged with hav- 
 ing suggested the meeting. 
 
 The platform men, however, sent Mr. Lilienthal the 
 following communication: 
 
 "July 7, igi6. 
 "Jesse W. Lilienthal, President United Railroads of San 
 
 Francisco, San Francisco, Cal. 
 "Dear Sir: 
 
 "Being credibly informed that paid union organizers have 
 of late been actively engaged in agitating the question of organ- 
 ization among the employes of the United Railroads of San 
 Francisco, and assuming that the public in general is not suf- 
 ficiently, or at all, informed relative to the merits of the many 
 claims and assertions made by said organizers relative there- 
 to, we, the undersigned employes of said company beg herewith 
 to present for your consideration our side of the question and con- 
 troversy, and request that you make the same publicly known 
 to the people of San Francisco, by any method or means that 
 to you may seem proper in the premises; and we beg to state 
 that the employes of said corporation, one and all, consider the 
 labor problem, in so far as it relates to our said employment, 
 settled, for the reasons following, viz: 
 
 "As individuals, we are privileged to approach any of the 
 officials of your company and there make known our causes of 
 complaint or requests if any, and in the past all of our solid-
 
 tations and requests have received due and just consideration 
 by the company. And, further, if at any time, we, collectively, 
 wish to make our desires known to the company, we can easily 
 do so by and through a very efficient and satisfactory organi- 
 zation in the U. R. R. Soda! and Athletic Club, which in 
 the past has been and now is indorsed and supported by the 
 officials of the company. 
 
 "In dosing, we wish to state that as we are perfectly satis- 
 fed with all and singular the conditions surrounding our said 
 employment, we see no logical reason why the men in the em- 
 ploy of the United Railroads of San Francisco should organ- 
 ize-, and further, we do not want to organize any such union. 
 
 " Trusting that the above will make our position in the 
 premises clear and that you, as president of said company, 
 will aft in accordance with this, our expressed desire, we beg 
 to remain. "Tours respectfully," 
 
 [Signed by the platform men of the United Railroads\. 
 
 The Western Banker and Financier states: 
 
 " This is a document which marks a new era in the solu- 
 tion of the Labor problem.'' 
 
 And continues: 
 
 " This is unique in the f aft that it is thejirst of its kind. 
 
 " This is forceful, in that it breathes loyalty. 
 
 " This is convincing in its matter-off aft statements. 
 
 " This is an example worthy of study and a document worthy 
 of preservation. 
 
 " This is encouraging in that it shows that Labor is open 
 to conviftion. 
 
 " This is pleasing inasmuch as it proves that one big body
 
 [i8 4 ] 
 
 of men who serve the public and come into daily contact with 
 their patrons can be so fairly treated that they are satisfied. 
 
 " This means from the signers, service and courtesy and 
 all the benefits to the public whichfollow contentment, loyalty, 
 and an appreciation of fair treatment" 
 
 Notwithstanding these facts, known to the Unions,the 
 agitators during the rush hour of the evening of July 14, 
 attempted to force a strike by having municipal cars 
 thrown across the United Railroads tracks at one of the 
 busiest points of the line, halting traffic in all directions 
 and giving opportunity for strike agitators, including 
 municipal railroad men, to make appeals to the platform 
 men of the United Railroads, but the attempt failed mis- 
 erably. 
 
 " No greater complime nt co uldbepa idto the con sistent' square 
 deal' policy of President Lilienthal of the United Railroads 
 than that of the loyal and steadfast attitude of the platform 
 employees in the company who were unsuccessfully threatened 
 or cajoled by union labor agitators to start a strike on the car 
 lines of that company'.'' 
 
 The completion of Twin Peaks Tunnel opened up 
 the question of connecting it with the city car lines on 
 Market Street. There were three methods before the 
 Mayor and Supervisors to accomplish this: purchasing 
 theUnited Railroads, co-operating with theUnited Rail- 
 roads, or double-tracking Market Street. The last meant 
 blanketing Market Street with car tracks, a most un- 
 reasonable method and unjust to the United Railroads 
 besides being a menace to life itself with automobiles
 
 i8 5 
 
 rushing up and down in addition to a constant stream 
 of street cars. The merchants, too, seriously objected, 
 foreseeing the detriment to business.They had just been 
 released from the jitney danger to be confronted by a 
 worse one. 
 
 Mr. Lilienthal offered a number of propositions to en- 
 courage co-operation with the United Railroads. 
 
 "/ shall approach the matter from every possible angle, 
 with the hope that one 'will appeal to the supervisors. I be- 
 lieve a proposition can be 'worked out that will be attractive 
 to the public. Of 'course ', I am not empowered to sell or give 
 away other people* s property. But I promise that whatever 
 influence I have as president of the United Railroads will 
 be devoted to arriving at an agreement and toward the ratifi- 
 cation of that agreement by the security holders of my com- 
 pany." 
 
 He presented his plans to the Mayor and Supervisors. 
 In a letter written March 30, 1 9 1 7, he offers the use of 
 the United Railroads' tracks and exchange of transfers, 
 and goes on to say: 
 
 " With this disposition on the part of the company, I per- 
 mit myself to say that there does not appear to be any warrant 
 for the proposed expenditure of city moneys, because the de- 
 sired transportation facilities would be provided for without 
 further expenditure. In view of the crying need of many dis- 
 tricts in the city for transportation facilities which the com- 
 pany under existing charter conditions is not able to provide, 
 it would seem that any city moneys that may be available 
 should be applied to providing such transportation facilities
 
 [i86] 
 
 rather than to duplicating exisiting ones, 'with the economic 
 'waste that 'would involve. 
 
 "I am making a proposal, at great financial sacrifice to 
 the company, 'which should in my opinion be acceptable to you 
 in the interest of all the people, but if any modification of the 
 same is desired by you I shall be glad to receive your further 
 suggestions. "Very respectfully yours, 
 
 "Jesse W. Lilienthal, 
 
 "President" 
 
 The City Engineer, Mr. O'Shaughnessy, inclined to- 
 ward the offer and stated: 
 
 "I do not 'want to commit myself until I have studied this 
 letter, but it appears to be a step 'which 'will make double 
 tracks to the Ferry unnecessary. I feel, however, that the city 
 is committed to the building of outer tracks on Market from 
 Van Ness Avenue to Church Street, because it 'was for this 
 that the people voted the 7^/J Church Street bond is sue. But 
 we shall see 'whether or not any more outer tracks at all 'will 
 be built" 
 
 Several of the San Francisco daily papers commented 
 on Mr. Lilienthal's proposals in the following manner: 
 
 "An opportunity has been presented to the Board of Super- 
 visors by Mr. Jesse W. Lilienthal, President of the United 
 Railroads, himself a loyal citizen of San Francisco, by which 
 this problem may be settled and the necessity of the expend- 
 iture of funds be obviated. Mr. Lilienthal' s proposition, as 
 stated by him in a letter to the Board of Supervisors, is: 
 
 "'That the company rearrange such part of the present 
 Parkside lines as may be necessary to furnish the best ser-
 
 I [' 8 7j 
 
 vice to the Sunset District, and make connexions from these 
 lines to the tunnel tracks. 
 
 " ' That the company pay the city on a mileage basis for the 
 use of the city's tracks thru the tunnel. 
 
 "'That there be established between the city and the com- 
 pany a universal exchange of transfers at all connecting 
 points, so that a unified system of transportation may be fur- 
 nished. 
 
 " ' That the city agrees that no further tracks be built on 
 Market Street and that the city will operate its cars over 
 Market Street as at present, except for that portion of Market 
 Street from Church Street to Van Ness Avenue forming a 
 part of the Church Street line' 
 
 "It must be apparent that Mr. Lilienthal' s proposal is es- 
 sentially constructive. It offers the city an opportunity to se- 
 cure the service thru the tunnel that is absolutely necessary 
 to the proper development of the section west of Twin Peaks 
 without the expenditure of any money and at the same time 
 guarantee to the people of the city a unified service that will 
 afford access to the region in question from every portion of 
 the city fora single fare. Such a service would be impossible 
 over any combination of city lines without the expenditure of 
 vast sums for new construction into regions already adequately 
 served by other lines. 
 
 " The proposition of the president of the United Railroads 
 is along the lines of modern relationship between urban com- 
 munities and their transportation public utilities. That rela- 
 tion is one of partnership. In practically every instance where 
 there has arisen a question upon the resettlement of the f ran-
 
 [i88] 
 
 chises, expired or expiring, of existing street railroads, that 
 settlement has been upon a basis of partnership. Witness the 
 Detroit settlement and the Chicago agreement by which those 
 municipalities entered into partnership with their transpor- 
 tation companies with the ultimate intention of taking them 
 over after the payment of an agreed valuation, a plan that 
 was eminently fair to all holdings, while at the same time pro- 
 viding for maintenance and extensions and improvements in 
 service during the period of transfer. 
 
 " San Francisco will eventually have to ' resettle ' the fran- 
 chises of the United Railroads; the proposition off ere d by Presi- 
 dent Lilienthal is a step in that direction and those in authority 
 should consider it very carefully and with a view to accept- 
 ing it. To do otherwise would be to tacitly express their in- 
 tention to throttle the United Railroads by blanketing it in 
 the most profitable section of its franchise territory, middle 
 Market Street. 
 
 "The Recorder, which has contended for municipal owner- 
 ship oftransportationfacilities ever since itwasjirst proposed, 
 does not believe that the true spirit of municipal owner ship or 
 of the people of San Francisco is evidenced by such an attitude. 
 
 "Municipal owner ship, in essence, represents the ultimate 
 
 passing of all privately owned street railroad lines into the 
 
 ownership and control of the public upon the expiration of the 
 
 franchises or by mutual agreement between the parties for the 
 
 transfer of possession upon the payment of an agreed price for 
 
 the company s equities in the property. It may also take the 
 
 form of extension of lines into territory not otherwise served. 
 
 "It never has contemplated the stifling of a property oper-
 
 [i8 9 ] 
 
 ated under a franchise agreement and in which the citizens 
 of the franchise granting municipality are stockholders. Such 
 acJion would be an unlawful taking without due process al- 
 tho under color of law. No municipality can afford to place 
 itself in such a position with regard to a public utility notwith- 
 standing the shortcomings of former managers and directors 
 of the property. 
 
 " What must be considered are the rights of all concerned 
 from an equitable standpoint. The people of San Francisco 
 are entitled to transportation service; the United Railroads 
 is entitled to live and do business under the franchises granted 
 to it by the people of San Francisco until those franchises 
 either expire or are abrogated by mutual agreement upon the 
 payment of proper compensation. The proposition of Presi- 
 dent Lilienthal on behalf of the United Railroads is eminently 
 fair and should be accepted unless the city desires to rest under 
 the stigma of desiring ruthlessly to destroy something that has 
 been created under franchises granted by it." 
 
 " With a possibility of the adoption of the proposed universal 
 transfer system, as offered by the United Railroads, it looks 
 as though a ray of sunlight has appeared upon the horizon 
 that will settle for all time the hazardous proposition of a 
 four-track system down Market Street. It is also gratifying 
 to learn that our local district Improvement Association, the 
 Polk and Larkin District Association, has gone on record 
 as favoring this plan, which is only fair and just to all con- 
 cerned. While admitting a universal transfer system in vogue 
 in San Francisco will mean much to the Polk district, tt will 
 mean even more to the pedestrian traffic of the entire city.
 
 [ 
 
 11 The days of personal animosity and 1 the public be d ' 
 might have been the caper under boss rule, but in these times 
 of efficiency and safety for life and limb, co-operation is more 
 essential, and it is to be hoped that our worthy supervisor swill 
 weigh well the attitude of the traveling public and be guided 
 in their decision by public sentiment rather than personal ani- 
 mosity. 
 
 ' ' Under the broad and intelligent supervision of affairs of the 
 United Railways by its president, Jesse Lilienthal, no fairer 
 proposition could have emanated from any source, than this 
 last excellent offer of compromise to our city fathers. 
 
 "It is very evident the United Railroads desires to play fair 
 with San Francisco in thefnal adjustment of this proposed 
 four-track system, a menace to life and limb and a boomerang 
 to the down-town merchants, as according to their universal 
 transfer system, as submitted, they would bear the bur den for 
 all time. The Twin Peaks Tunnel was built and completed 
 by the taxpayers' money, and it is up to them to voice their sen- 
 timent in the matter. By a universal transfer system, all re si- 
 dents of San Francisco would have access through the same 
 on a single fare. The Polk Street Journal is unqualifiedly 
 for the universal transfers." 
 
 " The offer is one that the people have a right to demand 
 should be accepted. There appears to be no disposition on the 
 part of the officials of San Francisco to pay the slightest at- 
 tention to the desires or necessities of the property owners whose 
 holdings were taxed to pay the cost of constructing the tunnel. 
 
 "Neither the political ambitions nor the personal hatreds of 
 a few per sons should be permitted to interfere with the giving
 
 ['9'] 
 
 of the best service possible thru the tunnel and to the people 
 in every part of the city who may have occasion to use it. To 
 refuse the of er of the United Railroads is to deny to the people 
 the best possible transportation service, but to insist that none 
 but municipal cars shall run thru the tunnel is to tax every 
 citizen who lives in a s eft ion remote from the municipal lines 
 an extra fare by way of penalty. 
 
 " The tunnel was expected to increase the taxable area of the 
 city and thereby the assessment roll; but if the present policy 
 is persisted in the property values in the section supposed to 
 be benefited will be lowered instead of being increased. The 
 people who bought in the West of Twin Peaks district are 
 in a fair way of being victimized by the very f aft or to which 
 they looked for assistance in making that seftion livable and 
 desirable for residence purposes, and all because of the desire 
 of certain persons high in the counsels of the municipal ad- 
 ministration to gratify a private spite. 
 
 "Such an attitude is to be not only deprecated but it is to 
 be condemned for it is based confessedly upon the desire to de- 
 stroy the value of a contra ft entered into by the city and upon 
 the strength of which securities have been issued. A fran- 
 chise is a contra ft, and, in the case of a street railroad, can- 
 not be abrogated except for gross negleft or wilful refusal on 
 the part of the franchise holder to render the service for which 
 it was granted the privilege. And it is doubly reprehensible 
 for a municipality to deliberately set about robbing the fran- 
 chise of its value by indireftion and for the purpose of secur- 
 ing the property at a depreciated price. 
 
 " The question of the destruftion of Market Street as a thoro-
 
 [ '92 ] 
 
 fare by the construction of another set of tracks may well be 
 left out of this discussion because of its obviousness. 
 
 "The principle of municipal ownership is not involved in 
 the present controversy; that principle has been thoroly es- 
 tablished in San Francisco, and it contemplates, not the de- 
 struction of existing utilities, but the acquisition by the city at 
 a reasonable price of existing utilities. That was the idea that 
 animated Bion jf. Arnold in his report on the resettlement of 
 the San Francisco street railroad franchises that the city, 
 if it desired to acquire the existing transportation utilities, 
 would do so by agreement duly entered into, and not by a proc- 
 ess of blackmail. 
 
 " This may seem a strong method of expression, but in view 
 of certain public declarations of persons in the confidence of 
 the present administration, is justified. 
 
 "As stated above, no municipality can affordto be less honest 
 than it experts its citizens to be. Notwithstanding what may 
 be done by corporations holding privileges under municipal 
 gift, the municipality must in all equity, deal in absolute hon- 
 esty with them, and having granted a franchise must fulfil 
 every obligation under it. 
 
 " The logical thing for San Francisco to do is to consider 
 favorably the offer of the United Railroads, not alone because 
 it is advantageous to the people, but because it is the honest 
 method of settling the matter. 
 
 " The offer made is advantageous to the people of the dis- 
 trict directly affected; they paid for the construction of the 
 tunnel and are entitled to be consulted. Not only that, but the 
 offer affects every citizen who may have occasion to use the
 
 [ '93 ] 
 
 Twin Peaks tunnel and penalizes him to the extent of a double 
 fare if it is rejected. 
 
 " San Francisco will soon enough have to take over the prop- 
 erties of the United Railroads. If it is the desire to acquire 
 them before the expiration date, why not arrange a basis of 
 resettlement and purchase, instead of embarking upon a course 
 that is confessedly piratical. 
 
 " To enter upon a policy for the express purpose of forcing 
 a public utility corporation into the hands of a receiver is pi- 
 ratical in the extreme and should not be supported by any de- 
 cent citizen. 
 
 "No one is asking for anything but a square deal in this 
 matter and the principal facJor should be the desire of the peo- 
 ple whose contributions built the tunnel. Will the city authori- 
 ties leave the matter to their arbitrament? " 
 
 Mr. Lilienthal again used his best efforts to encourage 
 the purchase of the Road by the City. He says: "I have 
 always thought San Francisco should own the United 
 Railroads because of the disastrous competition. I am 
 willing to do everything in my power to further nego- 
 tiations to that end." Notwithstanding public opinion 
 and the efforts of Mr. Lilienthal, the Mayor and Public 
 Utilities Committee of the Board of Supervisors, hav- 
 ing it within their power, adled contrary to the general 
 wish and in a most arbitrary manner built the parallel- 
 ing tracks. A more unconscientious act was never per- 
 petrated. It is the marvel of marvels that the citizens 
 of San Francisco sat by and permitted the outrage to be 
 consummated.
 
 THE STRIKE OF 1917. 
 
 After all the apparent peace and confidence existing 
 between the President and the men, in August, 1917, the 
 agitators won the men over. Mr. Lilienthal, who was 
 taking a short vacation, was surprised to receive a mes- 
 sage that a strike was threatened and about one hundred 
 men had left their cars on the street. He immediately 
 jumped on the train for home.To quote his own words: 
 
 " On the first of July I raised the wages of my men. Every- 
 body seemed very grateful and very happy. There hadn't been 
 a complaint or a demand of any kind. I was about the most 
 disappointed man in the country. The men had been tested 
 twice before, and they seemed like a very happy family. 
 
 " With their wives and children, and other members of their 
 families, they used to come to my office and consult me about 
 their domestic affairs. 
 
 +JU 
 
 " The real trouble was that, owing to enlistments, the draft 
 and what not, we had taken on a considerable percentage of 
 new men. 
 
 "Those are the ones that quit. 
 
 "I have letter on letter from men who in quitting said that 
 they were men of family, and that they were afraid of being 
 beaten up. 
 
 " This is the crux of the difficulty. We have a five cent fare 
 that is rigid. Everything that we buy today costs a vast deal 
 more than it ever did. When I made the raise on July first it 
 was notwithstanding this. I realized that it was costing the 
 men more to live. 
 
 " We can't put them on a par with the municipal carmen
 
 C'95] 
 
 because those lines pay no taxes, and contribute nothing to the 
 cost of paving the streets. Any dejicit that they incur can al- 
 ways be made up out of the budget. 
 
 "I do not hesitate to say that the attempted strike was 
 precipitated as part of a political conspiracy to force this com- 
 pany into a position where it could be acquired at bargain- 
 counter prices. 
 
 " There hasn't been one single aft of violence on the part 
 of our employes. When we proceeded to bring men into the city, 
 it was on the express stipulation that they must be experienced 
 platform men; that they must come unarmed; and that they 
 must be told that they were coming to take the places of men 
 who had struck. 
 
 " That is the whole story." 
 
 " The e forts of the company to help the men do not appeal 
 to newcomers in the service who take jobs with no intention 
 of settling down and who are quite as willing to wreck the 
 United Railroads as some of our city officials and city bosses 
 have shown themselves to be" 
 
 "I have consistently had in mind two considerations as domi- 
 nant: one, that the company should adequately serve the pub lie, 
 and the other, that the men should be treated as fairly and 
 generously as the limited fare allowed to be collected would 
 permit. We have three times during the last four years, with- 
 out any compulsion on the part of the men, raised their wages, 
 the last one having been made to take ejfeft only a little over 
 a month ago. We have insured the lives of our employes with- 
 out any cost to them and whatever their physical condition. 
 We have made hundreds of loans to our employes, charging
 
 ['96] 
 
 only Jive per cent per annum, and practically leaving it to 
 their convenience to repay same. 
 
 11 1 have had the men understand that my door 'was open to 
 them at all times, not only with reference to the affairs of the 
 company, but also with a view to helping them in all other 
 matters with which the company as such would have no con- 
 cern. And the men and their families have freely availed 
 themselves of that invitation, and the relations between the 
 men and the company during my administration have, I know, 
 been uniformly friendly . I also know that the great majority 
 of our men are contented, because I have had their express, 
 voluntary assurance to that effect. They know that we are 
 doing the best by them that we can. I also know that those 
 of our men recently employed came under certain outside in- 
 fluences and that at the present time such defection as is tak- 
 ing place is the result of physical intimidation. We must, of 
 course, depend upon the public officials to preserve order, but, 
 even if they do, the fear of violence, especially when applied 
 to men of families, tends to frighten them off the cars. 
 
 "In these times, when it is of paramount importance, in view 
 of the Nation being at war, that there should ?iot be even the 
 semblance of disorder, the parading of streets by boisterous agi- 
 tators with inflammatory placards is certainly one to deserve 
 the attention of the public." 
 
 Mr. Lilienthal should have been a saddened and dis- 
 heartened man with such a condition, after all his honest 
 interest in his men,but no, he still had faith in the loyalty 
 of the majority of his employees. 
 
 The strikers were riotous, law and order were cast to
 
 [ '97 ] 
 
 the winds, and they were fearless in their dastardly deeds, 
 as they knew they had the support of the police and the 
 police justices. 
 
 The Mayor and the Board of Supervisors asked for a 
 meeting with Mr. Lilienthal, making a pretense of com- 
 ing in a conciliatory spirit to bring order out of chaos 
 too late to make amends for the terrors enacted, and Mr. 
 Lilienthal refused any intercession from them or to see 
 the strikers. He was willing to take back his old em- 
 ployees, provided they returned under former conditions. 
 The Public Utilities Committee of the Board of Super- 
 visors passed a resolution inquiring if the United Rail- 
 roads could be purchased, and if so upon what terms.The 
 Board of Directors of the United Railroads answered: 
 
 ' * R e solved, that during the pendency of the present disorders, 
 and until adequate police protection is furnished to prevent 
 them, it would be inconsistent with the interests of the holders 
 of the company's securities to entertain any negotiation for 
 the purchase of the company's property." 
 
 Mr. Lilienthal charges discrimination in the follow- 
 ing letter: 
 
 " August 24, 1917- 
 "May or James Rolph, Chief of Police D. A. White, and 
 
 "Theodore J. Roche, President of the Police Commission. 
 "Gentlemen: 
 
 " The United Railroads ofSanFrancisco hereby notifies you 
 that commencing Saturday evening, August II, 1 917, and 
 for the few days immediately following, certain portions of 
 its platform men who operated its street cars voluntarily quit
 
 [i 9 8] 
 
 their employment . Since then this company has employed other 
 competent and experienced men to fill their places, in order 
 to operate its street cars upon and along the streets of the city 
 and county. 
 
 "Every effort made by this company and its employees to 
 lawfully operate its cars has been interfered 'with by mobs 
 and riots to such an extent that the company and its employees 
 have been unable to fully operate its street railroad system 
 and cars, particularly in 'what is known as south of Market 
 and the Mission districts. Many of its cars and much of the 
 property has been injured by said mobs and riots. From the 
 experiences since that time it is evident that every effort to 
 operate the cars of the company will be forcibly and unlaw- 
 fully resisted by persons assembled in mobs and riots in the 
 streets of this city. 
 
 " You are further notified that the police are, in contraven- 
 tion of any legal right 
 
 "First. Searching our cars and employees ; 
 
 " Second. Arresting those of our employees whom they find 
 with implements of defense carried openly; 
 
 " Third. Arresting our employees when they find in a car 
 even such an instrument as the handle of a pick-ax. They 
 have openly stated that they intended to arrest one man for 
 each pick-ax handle so found by them in a car. 
 
 "By these actions the police of San Francisco are not only 
 not protecting the rights and property of this company, but 
 are preventing the proper operation of our cars, thereby limit- 
 ing our service, with a consequent result in loss of earnings 
 and a further loss through the added expense which we have
 
 [ '99 ] 
 
 to incur in order to secure men to run the cars due to these 
 hostile actions by the police and to the neglect of the police to 
 properly protect our property. 
 
 "Mobs and riots have already occurred and the police have 
 failed to disperse the mobs or to give due and proper protection 
 to enable this company to carry on its business. This company 
 is desirous of doing everything within its power to prevent vio- 
 lence and bloodshed; it has a right to protection from the city 
 authorities, and I respectfully request that you take the neces- 
 sary steps to secure same. "Respectfully, 
 
 "Jesse W. Lilienthal, President." 
 
 On August 1 6th and 23rd, Mr. Lilienthal published 
 through the daily papers the following messages: 
 
 "To THE PUBLIC: 
 
 "We desire to have the public informed from day to day 
 of the exact attitude of the Company. We recognize the duty 
 of an employer to furnish to its employees the best conditions 
 that its earnings will permit. We are not in the position of the 
 municipality operating a public utility ', which pays no taxes 
 and which is in a position to make up a dejicit by simply adding 
 the amount of such dejicit to its budget. We have got to cut 
 our coat according to our cloth , and if employees discontented 
 with conditions or intimidated by the fear of violence quit the 
 service of the Company, it is part of our duty to the public to 
 Jill their places with others, and this we are proceeding to do. 
 Wherever quitting employees who left only through fear of 
 violence have offered to return, we cheerfully take them back. 
 
 "A Vice-President of the Amalgamated Association of
 
 20 
 
 Street Railway Employees of America has addressed a com- 
 munication to us demanding $3*50 for an eight-hour day, 
 and time and a half for overtime. It is only the interference 
 of this outside organization that has brought about the pres- 
 ent condition. 
 
 "But the matter may be treated on its merits. The Com- 
 pany, through the competition of the jitneys and municipal 
 lines, has been forced to seek an extension of its obligations, 
 and these are to be largely scaled down. Notwithstanding this, 
 as recently as July first last, realizing the increased cost of 
 living, we made a voluntary increase of wages, the third vol- 
 untary increase during the present administration. We will 
 continue, as we have in the past, to do everything possible for 
 our men, our relations with whom, until the interference of 
 this outside organization, had been of the friendliest nature. 
 Those of the men who quit did so without having made any 
 complaint or demand. 
 
 "We cannot give what we have not got. But we realize 
 our duty to serve the public, and we are proceeding as rapidly 
 as possible to Jill the vacancies with new men, in the expec- 
 tation that they will become a permanent part of the organi- 
 zation. " United Railroads of San Francisco, 
 
 "Jesse W. Lilienthal, President." 
 "To THE PUBLIC: 
 
 "/. The United Railroads has in no case encouraged or 
 counselled violence or law-breaking on the part of any of its 
 employees. We demand that any infraction of the law on the 
 part of any of our men be fully prosecuted by the proper au- 
 thorities.
 
 ! [ 201 ] 
 
 "2. Newspaper reports have misrepresented the facts and 
 have given the public the false impression that this company 
 is importing men as gunmen and thugs to violate the /aw. 
 
 "J. On the contrary, all violence has been against the em- 
 ployees of our company. In the last two days, overffty out- 
 rages have been committed against them, twenty-two of our 
 cars have been damaged and live shave been endangered, and 
 this notwithstanding that we have repeatedly called upon the 
 police department for protection. In no instance has adequate 
 protection been afforded by the authorities, and no convictions 
 have been secured. Numerous of our present and former em- 
 ployees have been and are being threatened and intimidated 
 even at their homes. 
 
 "4. This company is prepared to furnish adequate trans- 
 portation in the present crisis, but demands that law and order 
 be enforced, and further demands from the city and its au- 
 thorities the full measure of protection to which it is legally 
 entitled. 
 
 " The United Railroads within its legal rights will run its 
 cars. It should be furnished lawful protection by the Mayor, 
 the Police Commission and the Chief of Police, whose sworn 
 duty it is to afford such protection, in order that this corpora- 
 tion can perform its duty to the people and peacefully operate 
 its cars. 
 
 " Will the City Authorities continue to deny protection to 
 the man who wants to work? 
 
 " United Railroads of San Francisco, 
 
 "Jesse W. Lilienthal, President:' 
 
 The Bulletin in its editorial demanded in the name of
 
 [ 202 ] 
 
 the public the third party in the dispute that the cars 
 be run and the quarrel be arbitrated. A man not in any 
 way conne&ed with the Company writes in answer the 
 following: 
 
 "While I am wholly in sympathy 'with the cause of labor, 
 for my own hours are twelve or fifteen daily , I demand a liv- 
 ing wage for all men, but not eight hours continuous work in 
 the street railroad business, which can't be done, nor pay that 
 would bankrupt if entered upon. But this day a Fillmore con- 
 ductor stated to me his weekly wage seven days at present 
 of $28 for ten hours and ten minutes daily. Not bad, that. 
 Moreover, United Railroads men were never so well pro- 
 vided for or paid as they are today, not counting bonuses, as 
 for instance free hospital service, direct grievances, finan- 
 cial loans, transferred positions, etc., for which the railroad 
 receives neither credit nor thanks at this trying time. 
 
 "A believer in fairness or fair play, is the railroad com- 
 pany getting it? For the thousands of dollars it pays each 
 year in taxes and from earnings, is it getting the police pro- 
 tection to which it is justly entitled? Is our May or not spend- 
 ing more time doing politics, and with his ear to the ground 
 for the future than he is in serving the interests of the people 
 he at present represents ? 
 
 " The claim that if the city can pay a certain wage the United 
 Railroads can also will not stand the test. If applied gener- 
 ally, not only would scores of tax eaters be dismissed from offi- 
 cial employment, but municipal platform men would not be 
 so numerous nor wield the power they do today. Woe to the 
 public official who opposes expenditures where labor is em-
 
 2 3 
 
 ployed. One phase of railroading is business, the other is largely 
 political. 
 
 "President Lilienthal is one of our ablest and most respected 
 citizens. He denies the payment of railroad dividends for sev- 
 eral years past and points out that the company is about to 
 default on certain of its bonds. Municipal roads and jitneys 
 have cut heavily into the United Railroads' earnings and now 
 an entire city administration is apparently at its throat. 
 
 " The company is right in refusing negotiations for either 
 purchase or lease of its property while this strike is on. To 
 do otherwise would tend to further depreciate its value and 
 the interests of hundreds of stockholders in this city. Let nor- 
 mal conditions be re stored jthen let negotiations be entered upon 
 as seems best for the public good. But to egg on the strike, 
 ill advised and ill timed, and to array against the United Rail- 
 roads all the united interests that would profit by its undoing 
 is not only unworthy of our city and discouraging to the in- 
 vestment of all capital, but if continued in is bound to result 
 in endless litigation and possibilities of heavy damages against 
 the city being obtained. "Tours truly, 
 
 "A. B. McNeil." 
 
 This condition of riot, assault, and murder continued 
 for weeks. Mr. Lilienthal asked for police protection on 
 each car. The Chamber of Commerce demanded of the 
 Mayor that the police powers of the municipality be em- 
 ployed to safeguard life and property. The reply came 
 that the police were doing the best they could to main- 
 tain order the veriest hypocrisy too apparent to discuss, 
 as the police were not permitted to be on the cars, and
 
 [ 204 ] 
 
 if the police failed to down the riotous mob, military 
 aid as provided by law should have been called. 
 
 The besetting sin of the Unions is the walking dele- 
 gate, and the root of the evil of the strike is the license 
 allowed to the agitator making inflammatory addresses 
 at the sessions of the so-called Carmen's Union. One 
 particularly inhuman delegate urged them "to make a 
 good job of it while they were at it so they will not need 
 to send the men to a hospital." These delegates plan and 
 evolve trouble in order that they may continue to draw 
 fat salaries and suck the very blood from the veins of our 
 workingmen. 
 
 Mr.Lilienthal's heart went out in pity for many of the 
 men who he knew were following an element against 
 which they were no t sufficiently strong to struggle. Many 
 good men were sacrificed in the fray, their families inci- 
 dentally suffering. 
 
 But what would the agitators and their ilk have to do 
 could they not incite and agitate ? 
 
 The experience of the strike was most trying to a 
 man of Mr. Lilienthal's sensitive nature and did much 
 I know to undermine his health. Had he not been the 
 big man he was, and felt as did the Lord," Save the city if 
 there be but ten righteous ones," he surely would have 
 renounced a responsibility which was nothing but a con- 
 stant annoyance and a thankless task. 
 
 It would of course be difficult for a man of the cali- 
 ber of those ensconced in the City Hall to imagine that 
 there could be a head of a corporation absolutely hon-
 
 I [ 2 5 ] 
 
 est and disinterested, considering the welfare of his em- 
 ployees almost above all else, and yet that was the kind 
 of man the President of the United Railroads was, not- 
 withstanding his unwillingness to allow the men to or- 
 ganize. 
 
 As Mr. Lilienthal is no more, I do not hesitate to say 
 that he never accepted within several thousand dollars 
 the salary promised him and at his disposal, feeling that 
 the Road was in such financial stress. Are there many 
 similar occurrences on record, particularly among the 
 labor leaders? 
 
 The great redeeming feature was the loyalty of hun- 
 dreds of his men, appreciating as they did that had there 
 been a possibility to unionize his men with justice to 
 the men as well as to the Company he had in trust, it 
 would have been done. Every rule has an exception, and 
 this was a case in point. 
 
 "Many people downtown thought it a foregone conclusion 
 that Lilienthal would lose out because of the attitude of Mayor 
 Rolph and the police department at the outset. Lilienthal is 
 a good deal of an idealist and believes in mixing high ideals 
 in and with everyday business life. For that reason some have 
 deemed him a dreamer and impracticable. They've changed 
 their minds now, for it was his splendid treatment of his men 
 that caused eight hundred of the force to stick to him through 
 thick and thin. It has been an expensive fight, though, but 
 nothing compared to the loss the company would have sus- 
 tained had the strike succeeded." 
 
 On November 1 2, 1 9 1 7, Mr. Lilienthal increased the
 
 [ 206 ] 
 
 wages of the platform men as a reward for their loyalty 
 in remaining with the Company during its trouble. He 
 announced: 
 
 " The Company appreciates the faithful service of the plat- 
 form men who remained continuously in its employ after 
 August II, I QI fj and, recognizing that their loyalty and 
 courage should be rewarded in a substantial manner, will in- 
 crease their pay. 
 
 "I realize that living is higher and that these conditions 
 can be met by increasing the pay of our men. As heretofore 
 I have voluntarily increased the pay of our men, having made 
 three increases previously, I again provide for an increase 
 of pay for our platform men, although the company can ill 
 afford it in view of the constantly increasing competition of 
 the municipal lines , the taxi, the private automobiles, and the 
 jitney. At the same time I have felt that the splendid loyalty 
 shown by a large number of our employees under distressing 
 conditions was deserving of some special appreciation and 
 reward." 
 
 Although the labor Union did not call off officially 
 the so called strike until December first, the trouble had 
 ended some weeks before and the cars were running 
 normally. 
 
 The purchase of the Road by the City was again under 
 consideration. Another endeavor toward reorganization 
 had been effected. Mr.Lilienthal hoped to make the pur- 
 chase of the Road by the City the crowning ad: of his 
 presidency. As he had so frequently said, it was the only 
 solution of the City railway problem, and he would wel-
 
 2 7 
 
 come the purchase of the Road by the City under any plan 
 that was feasible and just to the owners of the property. 
 He did not live to see this consummated. He had 
 planned to retire from the presidency of the United Rail- 
 roads and continue his law practice in a limited way and 
 devote more time to his philanthropic work, so near to 
 his heart. Man proposes and God disposes.
 
 [ 208 ] 
 
 CHAPTER IX 
 
 Patriotism and Service During 
 the War 
 
 A IE time of the European war Jesse Lilienthal 
 hoped against hope that a settlement would 
 be reached before we would be participants 
 in the sad and fearful carnage; but when the 
 time arrived that our honor was at stake, and we were 
 drawn into this struggle for right and justice, his pa- 
 triotism knew no bounds. He felt that every man and 
 woman living in America, whether native or foreign 
 born, was here to fight our cause and no other. 
 
 In 1917 when we entered into the war, it was in this 
 spirit that he impressed upon the men of the United 
 Railroads the importance of becoming American citi- 
 zens, and he writes to them through the United Rail- 
 roads magazine : 
 
 " The thought uppermost in the minds of all of us and that 
 ought to be uppermost in our minds is the state of war upon 
 'which the United States has now definitely entered. For better 
 or worse, it is an actual condition and no longer a possibil- 
 ity that now confronts us. That means that every German, 
 Austrian, Hungarian, Bohemian, Bulgarian or Turk, even 
 though he live in the United States, is an enemy of our country 
 and exposed to all the risks and penalties that apply to enemies. 
 President Wilson, however, always humane and consider ate, 
 has announced (and in that respect he voices the sentiment of
 
 the vast majority of our people) that, so long as such alien 
 enemies living in our midst do not abuse our hospitality, they 
 have nothing to fear either as to their lives, their liberty or 
 their property . At the same time, however, he <warns them that 
 they must be on their good behavior, that having come here 
 to seek their fortunes and enjoying, as they do, the protection 
 of our laws, they owe at least a qualified allegiance to this 
 country, and that any violation of their duty in that respeEt, 
 as for instance in lending aid or comfort to the countries with 
 which we are at war, would constitute treason. And treason 
 is punishable by any sentence which the Government may 
 elecJ to impose, even to the extent of the death penalty and the 
 confiscation of property. 
 
 "Almost at the beginning of my administration I urged 
 upon all of you who were not citizens of the United States 
 that you at once take out your 'first papers and renounce your 
 allegiance to your foreign governments. I reminded you that 
 if this country was good enough for you to seek a living in, 
 it was good enough to be the country of your adoption and to 
 have your allegiance, and I warned you that in furnishing 
 employment the Company would always give preference to 
 natives and naturalized citizens as against aliens. 'Those of 
 you who may have aft ed upon my advice will now appreciate 
 the value of it. Those of you who did not do so before should 
 do so now. This is a good enough government for any one, 
 and it is getting better all the time. 
 
 " The Company will, of course, not tolerate any afts of dis- 
 loyalty on the part of any of its employees, whatever their rank. 
 I cannot impress this on you too strongly, and I do so in your
 
 own interest. Old Commander Decatur sounded the right slo- 
 gan when he said: "Right or wrong my country!" It is 
 hard to understand how any one will fail to acknowledge 
 the patience and humanitarianism as well as the patriotism 
 of President Wilson and his earnest striving to keep us out 
 of war. He has been at great pains, too, to make it plain that 
 he has no ill-will towards the German people. He even goes 
 further and declares that we have no better citizens than the 
 German- Americans. He shares with them the pride which 
 they feel in the achievements of their people. But he reminds 
 them that we are now at war with the German Government 
 and has his Secretary of State caution all of us, citizens and 
 aliens alike, to remain cool and keep our mouths shut. I am 
 glad to recall that advice to you and to urge your observance 
 of it, and in doing so I ask you to join with me in protesting 
 our enthusiastic and unquestioning allegiance to the govern- 
 ment of our own great country and to the Star Spangled Ban- 
 ner which is its emblem." 
 
 He encourages the men to show their patriotism by 
 buying Liberty Bonds, offering a fifty dollar bond for 
 five dollars on account, forty-five dollars to be paid at 
 the convenience of the men. In appreciation of their 
 response he writes: 
 
 "First of all, I wish to compliment the employees of the 
 United Railroads for the fine spirit with which they responded 
 both to the appeal of the Federal Government for subscrip- 
 tions to the Liberty Bonds and to the appeal of the National 
 Red Cross for its War Fund. When our President asks for 
 two thousand millions and gets subscriptions for more than
 
 [an] 
 
 three thousand millions , and when the Red Cross asks for one 
 hundred millions and gets contributions amounting to over one 
 hundred and eighteen millions, there have been accomplished 
 two of the greatest achievements in which this or any other 
 people ever had a part, and I am proud to think that our boys 
 did their share. The company announced its willingness to 
 carry a fifty dollar bond for any employee who would pay 
 jive dollars on account, leaving forty-five dollars still to be 
 paid at the convenience of the subscriber; and it may be under- 
 stood that that offer will hold good until further notice. There 
 is nothing better in the world than a United States Govern- 
 ment Bond. 
 
 "Well, these two experiences have certainly brought home 
 to us most vividly the grim realities of war. And now even 
 more than they, this is being done by the actual drafting of our 
 young men into the military service of the Nation. One of 
 my own nephews, whose home is with me, has already gone to 
 Prance and is at the front. My only son and two other nephews 
 are subject to draft. Many of you are in the same position. 
 Some of you may, for one reason or another, be able to secure 
 exemption. But it is hardly to be expected that none of our 
 United Railroads boys will be called. If some do go, let us 
 earnestly hope that they will come back and come back physi- 
 cally able to take their old places with the company again. 
 I need not assure them that the company would welcome them 
 back with open arms. 
 
 "But how about those of us who are not called? The man 
 that does not fight can find other means to serve his country, 
 and we must all do our bit. The work in which we are en-
 
 [212 ] 
 
 gaged has somehow got to be done, because, after all, the world 
 cannot stand still. Perhaps the sacrifice that those who re- 
 main behind should bring will be inform of increased effort 
 and greater enthusiasm in the work, so that when the others 
 come back they can be told, with a justifiable pride, that we 
 too, even though in a different way and with much less risk 
 and much less discomfort, have been fighting for our flag and 
 for our country. "Jesse W. Lilienthal, President." 
 
 During the period of the war,he regretted his inabil- 
 ity to enlist over seas on account of his age, and in con- 
 sequence used all his energies at home. His war work 
 was prodigious awake and in his sleep his thoughts 
 were constantly how best to assist his country and the 
 flag he adored; how to make the life of the enlisted man 
 healthful and happy, whether for Jew or Christian it 
 mattered not. He was high-souled,far-visioned,and uni- 
 versal in his kindnesses ; he knew no creed. His voice and 
 material aid were always there to assist in every humane 
 cause. No soldier on the field of battle made a greater 
 sacrifice than did this man. His battle cry was "peace," 
 but the peace bringing honor to America. His heart bled 
 for the boys who were making the supreme sacrifice, 
 and there is no doubt but that these years of strenuous 
 work, fraught with so much worry, did much to shorten 
 his life. 
 
 He was chairman of the War Camp Community Ser- 
 vice, vice-chairman of the Red Cross, and chairman of the 
 United War Work Drive, together with many other phil- 
 anthropic works, to all of which he was devoted and gave
 
 his energy, such as president of the Tuberculosis Asso- 
 ciation, president of the Recreation League, president 
 of the San Francisco Boy Scouts of America, trustee of 
 the Boys' and Girls' Aid Society, one of the Probation 
 Committee of the Juvenile Court and director of many 
 civic clubs for the betterment of conditions.
 
 CHAPTER X 
 Char after and Private Life 
 
 Ayith all his public spirit, there was another 
 side to his life even more beautiful and more 
 exemplary, that of father and husband. One 
 could not describe this man and omit the 
 home and its surroundings which constituted for him 
 the height of his happiness. It was a haven of peace and 
 love. He would say: "I hear enough arguments all day. 
 When I enter my home, strife and worry cease." He was 
 the prince of peace, and his home life was truly the 
 perfection of beauty and serenity. Association with him 
 meant endeavor to do one's best. It was a constant in- 
 spiration to be associated with him. One could not do 
 a mean thing in his presence the look in his eye and 
 the expression of his lips would bespeak such disap- 
 proval that one would be ashamed to be gossipy or petty 
 in any way. He loved his home, modest as it was; he 
 would wander from room to room interested in his books 
 and his pictures. He realized they were not exceptional, 
 just beautiful to his eyes, but they were his, and his re- 
 ligion almost was contentment gratitude for what had 
 been given him and loyalty to his possessions. He had 
 not a room in his home without books, books suited 
 to his every mood poetry, history, essays, biographies, 
 scientific and political works,as well as all kinds of novels 
 and romances. As a recreation he loved a good novel,
 
 C 2 '5] 
 
 not of the crass or problem kind but even love stories 
 and romances, and he would say jokingly," particularly 
 those which ended all right." His own life was one long 
 romance. Relationship between him and his wife was 
 unique. They were in sympathy in all the big questions 
 of life; they were constant companions in all their activ- 
 ities, sympathetic in the extreme. His love for the higher 
 things of life, without being obtrusive, could not but be 
 apparent to any one who had close association with him. 
 He was born with the gifts of the gods beauty, men- 
 tality, tact, generosity of heart, and an ambition which 
 was never satisfied with the accomplishment of any one 
 thing. When an undertaking was successful, it was nat- 
 urally a source of pleasure but accepted modestly, and 
 he would begin to strive for some greater achievement. 
 His high-minded spirit was shown in every step he took 
 in life, even to his manners which were those of an aris- 
 tocrat, though at heart the most democratic of men. His 
 respect for women was not the least of his charms. When 
 in a crowded car, never would he remain seated did he 
 see a woman stand, even though tired after a busy day's 
 work and surrounded as often happened by younger men 
 comfortably ensconced. He lived, as did the knights of 
 old, still maintaining this sense of respect and chivalry. 
 He had no patience with sickly sentimentality, but was 
 full of sentiment, and he proved that a pra&ical business 
 man could be an idealist. It was this combination of the 
 ideal and the practical in life which made Jesse Warren 
 Lilienthal stand among the few great men. His love of
 
 [216] 
 
 humanity was boundless, and he was grateful to Fate for 
 enabling him as he advanced in years to carry out his 
 wish to assist others less fortunate than himself. He said: 
 
 " Why cannot men know when they have enough ? For one 
 man enough may be ten thousand dollars, for another it may 
 mean hundreds of thousands; but let every manjix a term to 
 his desires and spend everything of his income over and above 
 the amount that makes him independent. I think that by so 
 doing he will discover the secret of happiness. It has solved 
 the problem of life for me. It has so altered my attitude to- 
 ward life that when a man comes to me for help in rounding 
 a bad corner, I do not feel that I am doing him a favor but 
 that he is conferring an obligation on me. He is helping me 
 to live my life the way I want to live it." 
 
 His great desire was to help people help themselves; 
 he was never tired of encouraging them to fulfil their 
 ambitions, and many are the young men who owed their 
 success to the encouragement he gave them. He became 
 a sponsor in music and art schools for the best instructors 
 at possible prices. In facl: he wanted every man, woman, 
 and child who showed inclination for the higher things 
 of life to be given the opportunity. I take the liberty to 
 quote from a letter which I received : 
 
 " Rich in intellect, gifted, genial, noble, and brave, he 
 
 walked the earth with the majesty and chivalry of a knight 
 
 of old, and wherever he came to places where men assembled 
 
 for the common welfare, he was welcomed with outstretched 
 
 hands and glad voices and kind thoughts. 
 
 " In his per son, he combined the resources of a cultured mind
 
 C 2I 7 
 
 with the charm of an endearing personality, and above all, 
 his sympathy was so great that it drew him to all, and all 
 were drawn to him with ties of enduring friendship. Thus 
 his passing Jills our very souls with eternal regret but we are 
 supremely gratified for the priceless legacy of his splendid ex- 
 ample. 
 
 " He believed in the religion of kindness, and he practiced 
 it every hour of his life. The crux of his being was service 
 for others. To him there was no race, no creed, no national- 
 ity whenever or wherever there was human suffering or mis- 
 fortune; for in his mind there was only room for the great. 
 He is * of those immortal dead who live again in minds 
 made better by their presence.' He was deeply loved. He had 
 the great qualities to inspire the highest admiration and the 
 noblest responses in the hearts of men, a composite of Bay- 
 ard in conduct, of Chesterfield in manners, of Montefare in 
 philanthropy, pity that comes from the heart of man to his 
 fellow man. He taught us by his deeds the universal kinship 
 of all humanity and helped to quicken our perception of the 
 great things in life: love, beauty, gentleness, kindness, court- 
 esy, friendship, duty, charity, and forgiveness. 
 
 " The call of duty ever in his ears was met by him with 
 generous self-ejfacement and in every community activity, 
 he was a recognized leader and an untiring worker. To his 
 wise counsel and noble ideals, to his unswerving honesty and 
 large achievement the City of San Francisco owes a deep and 
 lasting gratitude and an inspiration to better deeds." 
 
 On June 3, 1919, in the midst of this full life, with 
 so many ambitions and promises still unfulfilled, and
 
 [218] 
 
 while beseeching aid for St. Ignatius College, he was 
 called by One in whose hands we are powerless unto 
 Himself. Typical of his life were the last words upon 
 his lips: "Work for the good of the world, without any 
 religious differences, but with the single idea of one flag, 
 one country, and one God." 
 
 Oh, the great mystery of death ! Could we but lift the 
 veil; we are so tempted to ask the why thereof. His 
 answer would have been: "Ask no more; have faith!"
 
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