J/U. '4-30 ^ ^^K!!s;?is?3-' A 1 A JCSOI JTHERf 9 JREGIO 5 iNAL LIBf 8 5 9 ACILIT 9 NEW ZEALAND COIffANT, LONDON LATEST INFORMATION FROM THE SETTLEMENT OF NEW PLYMOUTH THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELES LATEST INFORMATION FROM THE SETTLEMENT OF EW PLYMOUTH, ox THE COAST OF TARANAKE, NEW ZEALAND. COMPRISING LETTERS FROM SETTLERS THERE ; AN ACCOUNT OF ITS GENERAL PRODUCTS, ,* AGRICULTURAL AND COMMERCIAL CAPABILITIES, &c. PUBLISHED UNDER THE DIRECTION OF THE BT of ENGLAND BOARD OF THE NEW ZEALAND COMPANY. LONDON: SMITH, ELDER AND CO., 65, CORNHILL. 1842. Price One Shilling. London : Printed by Stewart and Mukeay, Old Bailey. 'B S O H ft, 2 o w I u o B H E- M b 30 O s > * LATEST INFORMATION FROM THE SETTLEMENT OF NEW PLYMOUTH, ON THE COAST OF TARANAKE, NEW ZEALAND. COMPRISING LETTERS FROM SETTLERS THERE; AN ACCOUNT OF ITS GENERAL PRODUCTS, AGRICULTURAL AND COMMERCIAL CAPABILITIES, &C. PUBLISHED UNDER THE DIRECTION OF THE WEST OF ENGLAND BOARD OF THE NE\Y ZEALAND COMPANY. LONDON: SMITH, ELDER AND CO., 65, CORNHILL. 1842. London : Printed by Stewart and Mubkat, Old Bailey. ou fVc^/Ys H30 LATEST INFORMATION FROM THE SETTLEMENT OF NEW PLYMOUTH. The following pages, which have been compiled from the latest official despatches and private letters, will enable the reader to form as correct a judgment of the resources and prospects of the New Plymouth Settlement as the very short time which has elapsed since its original formation renders possible. The settlers all lament the want of a harbour, but there is no difference of opinion as to the extraordinary fer- tility of the soil, and the great promise which is held out to agricultural settlers. The general wish ex- pressed for moorings had been anticipated by the Directors, who sent out in the Timandra, in October last, two sets, capable of holding the largest ships. In a commercial point of view, the settlement will necessarily be secondary to Wellington, which, from its superior harbour, must be the great commer- cial entrepot. An exceedingly intelligent settler, however, writes to a friend in London, " that there is a good opening for goods, and from all appearances there will be for some time, as the parties principally coming out are agriculturists." This gentleman says that the goods he brought with him from England 780514 O TARANAKE. have averaged two hundred per cent, profit. There appears to be a spirit of enterprise growing up, evi- denced by the rapid erection of houses, and the clearance and cultivation of land ; in addition to which, a whaling company is projected, and about to be formed. The opinions of the labouring class are favourable, as will be seen from that portion of the work which contains extracts from their letters ; and the whole will present a continuous statement of proceedings connected with the settlement, from the date of the surveyors' tour of discovery in January 1841, to the arrival of the Oriental at New Plymouth, on the 9th of November last. The advantage of this general view will excuse a little repetition. On the 26th of December, 1840, Mr. Carrington, the principal surveyor for New Plymouth, was re- commended by Colonel Wakefield to visit Taranake, Tasman's Gulf, and Queen Charlotte's Sound ; and, accordingly on the 7th of January, he embarked on board the Brougham for Taranake, and steered for the Sugar Loaf Islands, at that place, where he ar- rived the following evening. There, on the mainland, Cok Wakefield thought would be the best location for the town of New Plymouth. On the 8th of January, the surveyor writes : " We had a fine view of the coast of Taranake and Mount Egmont. We kept close to the coast all day, and had a clear view of the country for sixty miles, in which distance we saw only one hut and seven natives; the country the most magnificent I ever saw for agriculture ; the slope gradual from the mountain to the coast, with sufficient undulations in other directions, which make it naturally drained. THE SUGAR LOAF ISLANDS. 7 Not more than a mile and a half from shore, we came to an anchurag-e half a mile E.N.E. of the centre Sugar Loaf. Nothing here worthy of the name of harbour, nor could a perfect one be made without considerable expense ; but much good could be done by a breakwater, which is very practicable, abundance of materials being on the spot. The anchorage is a hard sand and clay — could not be better." The following" is an account, by the Surveyor, of the Sugar Loaf Islands and the anchorage there : — " All the rocks which compose the Sugar Loaf Is- lands are very hard — a kind of granite ; the one which joins the main land is five hundred feet high, the centre one about three hundred feet, and the outer one about two hundred and fifty feet; they are all of them more or less covered with vegetation, flax, evergreens, &c. ; beside these, there are high rocks or islands ; there are also several other rocks, some of which are under water, and some never covered, even at high water. The average depth of water round the islands and rocks is about seven fathoms, except from the centre Sugar Loaf to the main, which is about two fathoms and a-half ; and if a breakwater was made here, we should seldom or ever have any swell upon the beach, and vessels might come alongside, discharge, and take in cargo. The length of break- water required would be little more than a furlong." — Surveyor's Journal, Jan. 10. There is a difference of opinion amongst the agents of the Company as to the possibility of forming a breakwater; but a jetty, affording great shelter and accommodation to small coasters, appears quite prac- ticable, and was contemplated by the settlers. The surveyors now proceeded along the Taranake coast ; and, having arrived off the mouth of the river b RIVER WAITERA. Waitera, "sounded the entrance, and found in the shallowest place on the bar seven and a-half feet; this was out of the channel of the river. The tide had fallen three feet in the channel — at spring-tides there is thirteen and a-half feet water. Directly over the bar is three and four fathoms water, in a basin formed by the river. We pulled up the Waitera for about three miles ; a most beautiful country. The vegetation is beyond description. Fern trees and numberless ever- greens, and fern-flax, and grass from ten to twenty feet in height. The country, the whole way from this to the Sugar Loaves, just the same character ; ex- cept where it is intercepted by large timber, which joins the great forest round the base of Mount Eg- mont, and radiates in places nearly to the coast. In- deed the whole country, as far as the eye can reach, appears generally fertile, except the summit of Mount Egmont, which is covered wath snow. " The soil, a rich dark mould. I thought this a most valuable piece of country; but there was no har- bour for a ship. I looked, and re-looked at the river; its parallel banks, where boats might be brought alongside, and take in or discharge cargo. Its bar, I thought, might be improved by small piers being run out on either side. This was my first visit ; the sea like a mill-pond, and every thing most satisfactory, but the one great essential — a harbour. I remarked to Mr. Barrett, it was open to the north-west, and perhaps ships would not like to bring up there on that account. He assured me the north-west wind was by no means frequent, and lasted but a few hours when in that quarter, which I have since found to be correct." — Surveyors Journal, Jan. 1 1 . As far, therefore, as the surveyor had already seen, the deficiency of a commodious harbour was the only BLIND BAY AND ASTROLABE ROADS. 9 drawback to Taranake, as the site for a settlement ; and in anticipation of that quarter being selected for its natural advantages, Mr. Carrington next visited the opposite harbour of Port Hardy, and minutely exa- mined the port. " Arrived and anchored in Port Hardy (south arm, fourteen fathoms water) at a little after six o'clock, p.m. Almost immediately after, we were visited by two canoes, with three or four natives in either. Soon after anchoring, pulled round the harbour to see if any place would do for building store-houses; saw but few. Ground, almost every place, steep to the water edge. The best spot would be on the north- east beach of the east arm, directly you enter this branch of the harbour : in other words, half a mile south of Castle Head. There is much timber here; but I expect it will not be found valuable for building any thing beyond small craft. The evergreens are by no means so plentiful as in many other places which I have seen in this country. The scenery, however, is truly grand ; and the harbour being so safe, must, some day, be of great value to the opposite coast of level country (Taranake). — Surveyor's Journal, Jan. 15. Mr. Carrington now proceeded to examine the country round Tasman's Gulf, on the north coast of the South Island, where he arrived on the 16th of January. At dusk, on the same evening, he reached Adele Island, and next morning, Sunday, entered " Astrolabe Road (more properly, Harbour.) — It is perfectly safe, and sheltered frotn all winds, owing to its position with Adele Island, Fisherman's Island, and the main land. At ten o'clock I went on shore with Mr. Barrett, and took a walk for several hours over the ground, all of which is much too steep for a5 10 QUEEN charlotte's SOUND. cultivation, and a great portion of the hills are little better than rock. There are here, on the main land, several truly beautiful coves and ravines, with about an acre or so of level land, where might be built a gentleman's house with garden and pleasure ground, but nothing beyond this. I had a fine view of the level land towards the south of the bay. There appears much of it, with a small river running through its centre ; it also appeared as if a great mass was flooded at certain seasons of the year." — Surv. Journal, Jan. 17. The Surveyor-general's impression of this place appears, from an extract from one of his private letters to Mr. WooUcombe, to have been, on the whole, very favourable : — " Next to Taranake, Tasman's Gulf possibly may prove the best part of the New Zealand Company's land for a settlement. But should it be contemplated at any time to form one there, a surveyor who under- stands the sketching and drawing of hilly ground ought to be sent with several labourers some months before settlers, to see if it is practicable to find a road from where the town must be (at the harbour) to the agricul- tural part of the country, which is distant about seven miles. In my journal of the 18th January, I have stated that I thought it a bad place for a settlement, as the land which I had that day been over was so much intercepted by marsh, and upon the following day I found it was flooded for some considerable way every rise of the tide ; but seeing the great extent of level land which I did on the 20th of January, I could not help thinking but there must be some valuable country." Last of all. Queen Charlotte's Sound was visited, with repaid to which it is observed : — TARANAKE. — QUALITIES OF SOIL, ETC. 11 " Its localities have been commented upon by so many different persons, that it is useless my en- deavouring to afford further information respecting the place. It is an immense, splendid, and safe har- bour, with water varying from seven to twenty-five fathoms. On either side, all through the Sound, you find the most beautiful little coves with small patches of ground, just enough for a cottage and garden. Jackson's Bay, where is a whaling establishment, and the next Bay, where is a native settlement, are the only places favoured with a few level acres. The hills in every direction are particularly steep, and covered with an endless variety of foliage, even to the water. It is therefore quite out of the question seeking for any extent of land worth cultivation in this part of New Zealand." — Surveyor s Private Letter, Jan, 17. Final Choice of Taranake. On a general review of the capabilities of the various districts he had thus visited, the portion of Taranake, between the rivers Enui and Ewatoki, was finally fixed on as the site of New Plymouth ; and as far as agricultural qualities are concerned, the pro- priety of this choice will appear from the following quotations, in addition to the numerous testimonies which have been already published. " If New Zealand is to prosper, this must become the great granary, from its possessing such an immense extent of land fit for agriculture — many millions of acres. I looked to this, and also to its position with the Australian and other colonies ; and I thought I could not do better than fix the settlement here. " And now, after having been here some few months, I feel much pleasure in being able to assure the Di- rectors, that I do not see that the selection could be 12 QUALITIES OF SOIL, ETC. bettered as regards the site of the town or setilement in general. " I have made a drawing of the grounds of a great portion of the town, but cannot complete it till I have finished my cuttings. By the next ship I hope to send it home, when you can have a model made from the drawing, which will at once show those unac- quainted with topography the exact formation of the land. I shall, therefore, only say that a more beau- tiful and promising country for agriculture is perhaps not to be found. A more healthy climate I believe there is not: myself and family lived in a native hut for five months, a great portion of the time without either door or window ; the shed was so small that it was impossible to erect any kind of bedstead without taking up all the spare room; we, therefore, slept upon native mats on the ground (and occasionally a little rain), yet, for all this we were blessed with the best of health. " A steam tug would be an invaluable acquisition to this place, as we could then discharge large ships with great facility ; and during many months in the year she might be employed in many ways for the good of the colony, and in bad weather she might lie at the Waitera." — Surveyor's Private Letter. Opbtions of Settlers. On the arrival of the Amelia Tliompson at Port Ni- cholson, the greatest dissatisfaction prevailed amongst the passengers at the intelligence that no harbour existed at Taranake, and it was said by one of the most influential settlers whose subsequent letter will be presently referred to, " It is the intention of most of us to enter the settlement under protest, leaving the matter open to redress." The following extract, how- QUALITIES OF SOIL, ETC. 13 ever, will shew that a personal examination has mate- rially altered the writer's views. " I am happy now to give you a more favourable account of the settlement, than reports at Port Nichol- son when there, enabled me. The absence of a refuge for shipping will always be a serious matter, but the land is so fine, at least compared with Port Nicholson, Cloudy Bay, and all the coast of New Zealand I have seen, that I have not the least idea of the failure of the place. I am sorry, or rather glad to differ with some residents here, who argue ill of the settlement, and I seriously trust for all concerned, that time will prove them wrong and me right. It has too many recommendations to go to the ground, and it is hardly to be expected that the New Plymouth, or rather the New Zealand Company, are merely a money-making set, and that they would now abandon us, after such proofs of confidence on our part, having actually left our homes for this distant settlement before its locality was even known to them or to us. I think, moreover, that the government to whom they are indebted for their charter would expect them to make every effort for us. You will be pleased to hear that Captain Liardel is at the helm of affairs — he is a man of spirit, and fitted to uphold every thing he undertakes. He is an old shipmate of Captain Hobson's, and that circumstance cannot be unfavourable to us. '* You will be pleased to hear that I am one of the five magistrates. The governor, however, made a sad mistake in not insulting me with two or three hundred a year. He thought from 's letter that I came out as a gentleman. A sad delusion, I am only work- ing hard to become one." Private letter from W. H. H. Esq : dated 13th Nov. The same gentleman writes to another party at the same date as follows : 14 QUALITIES OF SOIL, ETC. " We must now speak of our settlement, and of t!ie natives. You have long since heard that it is on the western coast of the Northern Island, but the charts are all wrong which we brought with us from England. As nearly as we can ascertain, the exact position of the town, or rather the site, is in lat. 39° 3' S,, and 174° 20' E., and about twenty-five miles north of Eg- mont, a mountain of great height, covered with eternal snow, at times distinctly seen, but generally lost to view in the clouds. The district of Taranake in ap- pearance much resembles a park, and when cleared of fern will be considerably improved. The land is com- paratively level, the soil rich and fertile, the climate delightful (at this time the temperature ranging in our marquee from 65 to 86), and the land well watered with two rivers (the Ewatoki and Enui), streams, and frequent rains. Governor Hobson told Capt, Liardet, on meeting him at Port Nicholson, that Taranake was the garden of New Zealand, and that he hoped soon to see a road between it and Auckland, his seat of government, and that he should visit us the ensuing summer. The want of a harbour will, at all times, be a drawback; but, as Mr. Carrington observed to us, he had three places to choose from, and he selected land without a harbour in preference to a harbour without land, — alluding to the mountainous country round Queen Charlotte's Sound ; and we hope that, as art can effect many improvements in the place, the New Zealand Company, so rich in capital, will make an effort for so fine a part of New Zealand, particularly as so many have staked their interest in the success of it. We are glad that the Waitera river, about twenty miles to the northward, is secured to us, and that the boundary of our settlement is fixed on the other side of it. The Waitera river is of great importance, as by ANCHORAGE. 15 removing some obstacles, and deepening its mouth, it will be capable of receiving vessels of small burden." Mr. C — n, a gentleman who went out in the first ex- pedition in the William Bryan, writes on the subject of the anchorage, that it is quite practicable to form a jetty for landing goods nearly opposite the town, where some rocks run out some distance. He states that a settler who has lately arrived from Van Dieman's Land calculates that it might be done for 500Z. This orentleman, in remarkins; on the rivers Enui and Ewatoki, states, that " though not navigable, they will be very useful as affording water power for mills." As to the Anchorage, the surveyor states : — " We have got the garden of the country, and though perhaps 80 or 100 miles in extent, here is the only landing-place for cargo. We have now safely discharged (with small boats) three ships at different seasons of the year, and while the place is in a perfect state of nature. Much can be easily done to improve the accommodation for large ships, and facilitate landing. A mooring ought to be here, also a jetty, which I suppose we shall quickly have, and then this place will go a-head ; and if a steam-tug, we shall be all right." — Surveyor s Journal, Sept. 1841. "The Company's Store* is built in a valley on the north side, with several other houses adjoining. Capt. King's residence is at present on the south side, at a short distance from the most suitable spot for the landing-place, at which they talk of running out a jetty; which, if carried into effect, will enable ships to land their passengers and cargoes with much greater safety and ease ; it would also be a saving of an * Vide Frontispiece. 16 ANCHORAGE. infinite deal of trouble and expence. The other landing point is at Moturoa or Sugar Loaves, two miles from the town : cargo landed there has to be trans- ported this distance over a sandy beach, compelling the owners to incur additional expence, which might be avoided if landed at the town." — Private Letter from H. R. Aubrey, Esq., Sept-. 26. The following extracts from letters give the im- pressions of Mr. C n, whose letters we have before quoted, immediately on his arrival in May, and subsequently in August 1841. After a most glowing description of the impression made on him at his arrival by the beauty of the scenery, the writer says : — " You will say this would do all very well for a landscape ; but what of the country as regards cultivation? From what I have seen of it, I think it very good, and likely to become a very flourishing settlement. Generally speaking, the land can be cleared for 10/. an acre ; of course, I now mean put in a good state for cultivation, for I would undertake to clear it sufficiently for a crop for half that sum. The forest land will cost more to clear, but then you have a set-off in the value of the timber, which I think will pay well ; the town and the greatest part of the country land being covered with fern and shrubby wood." In August, the writer says : — *' From what I have seen of this district, I have no doubt the settlement will succeed well, particularly for capitalists coming here ; and I am glad to find some are expected by the next ship. A mill and steam-engine is to be brought out by one of the colonists, and will be a valuable acquisition. I wish you were here to see my establishment : I have quite a little farm-yard 5 PROBABLE EXPORTS. 17 within my fence — a hen-house, goat-house, and pig- stye — and, better still, have occupants for them. I have been exceedingly busy fencing and building, and am now going to prepare some land for pota- toes, &c." Before proceeding to a resumt of affairs in the set- tlement, from the final decision of the surveyors and the landing of the stores in the month of March, to the latest advices in November, we subjoin a few mis- cellaneous extracts on the subject of the natural qua- lities of the soil and probable articles of export from the colony, and also on the character and disposition of the natives. " In the course of twelve months' time I expect we shall be able to export to England from New Ply- mouth. Whales are very numerous close to the shore, and it is said that next season the fishing will be carried on with spirit. We have a great variety of wood quite handy ; I cannot attempt to give you the different names, they are too many. Suffice it to say, it is most valuable for all kinds of building and furniture. Also the most pure black dye from the bark of the hinau ; it is a large tree, and very plen- tiful. Fruit trees, I have no doubt, will here flourish in great perfection. I know peaches will. We have two large trees, planted by a native, from stones brought from Sydney about twelve years since ; they are five or six miles inland from the town, and were loaded with fruit last season." — SurveyoT's Private Letter. " New Zealand, however, in my opinion, will make quite different returns from the Australian colonies. There, rapid fortunes are made by certain parties in sheep-farming. Not so here ; people who come to 18 OBSERVATIONS ON VEGETATION, ETC. this country must be content to settle down for some years. There is much labour to be done in clear- ing, and this of course will go on progressively, con- sequently it will take a few years before you can get great returns ; but ultimately the value of land here will be infinitely beyond that in sheep countries, and there will always be found a good market for this place." — Mr. Carringtons Letter, Sept. 1841. " Went this morning, with Mr. Aubrey and two of the labourers, to the Enui River, the proposed eastern bounds of the town; — walked inland along the bank of said river for about a mile. It is extremely beautiful, and clothed on either side with copse, timber, innu- merable evergreens, and tree ferns. The soil, just the same, equally good, every place inclosed which I have yet purchased. The river is about 20 yards wide, and keeps a parallel width. I expect it will prove valuable, some day or other, to bring down timber from the forest throuo-h which it runs." — Surveyor's Journal, March 20. "Early this morning, I walked into the country for two miles, at the back of Nga Motu, through a fine flat fern country, the fern on which only requires to be cut and burnt, to set the plough at work. Some thousands of acres might be tilled here at a trifling cost. The surface soil is a fine, black, light mould, but at spade's depth, a lich loam. In New Zealand, every part is covered with vegetation — either fern, scrub, or wood. The fern grows to various heights, from one to twenty feet, but, generally, on good land, open to the weather ; it averages from three to five feet, and is so thick that it is impossible to walk through it. There is but little grass, so that it will be necessary to cultivate it before any quantity TIMBER. — STONE. 19 of cattle can be maintained." — Mr. Outfield's Jour- nal, April 11. "The karaka, {Corynocarpus L€vigata^\io\\ekohe, and kow-vviri, are the prevailing trees in this part of the wood ; the two first are not in good repute, and the latter is too hard for general use. Mr. Carrington was shewn some fine kikatea trees, this morning, by a native. The kikatea is a species of white pine, and well adapted for all purposes of house and boat h\x\\d- mg."—Ibid, April 12. " This morning, with one man, I cut through the fern from the wheat land to the wood, about three quarters of a mile distant, in an easterly direction, in search of pine. Found fine karaka, towa and tawa- riva (commonly called honeysuckle), but no pine. The towa is a fine wood, something between the ash and the oak, and will prove a useful wood for the boat and ship builder, as well as to the wheelwright." —Ibid, May 2]. " The kikatea timber lies in a valley, near the banks of the Enui ; many of the trees measure 5 feet in diameter. There are also, near the same place, fine kikatea and towa trees ; so that, having formed our saw-pits, we can furnish ourselves with a large quan- tity of plank of either sort ; and, when a nearer cut is made to the town, it will not be more than 1^ mile to the store-house, a point which we at present calcu- late distances from." — Ibid, May 22. " Having examined every piece of stone which has come in my way since landing, I have been unable to discover any other than sand and iron stone, and granite; indeed, the country appears to be ill sup- plied with stone, except on the sea-shore, where there is plenty of very hard granite. From certain indica- tions, iron, I apprehend, will be ultimately found in 20 WHALING. large quantities in this neighbourhood." — Ibid, June 18. " Stones on the land are scarcely to be met with ; but as there are plenty in the beds of all the rivers and streams, it is reasonable to suppose they will be met with in places at some distance under the surface. But should this not be the case, large quantities of stone may be collected on the coast from the beds of the rivers, for road-making." — Ibid, July 4. "The whale which Mr. B. anchored on the 30th June, rose, and drove to sea. To whale here with success, six boats at least should be employed ; and to form a six-boat establishment a capital of £3000 would be required. To allow the Sydney merchants to form establishments would be folly on the part of the settlers, because Sydney would derive all the profit, which is great, and all the trade inci- dent to whaling, by sending whaling gear, slops, and provisions, and taking away the oil ; whereas the oil ought to be an article of export. Lines and cordage might be made, and boats built here, as easily as at Sydney. It is to be hoped that as soon as a few persons of capital collect, a joint-stock whaling com- pany will be established. Had there been a six- boat party here, six or eight whales might by this time have been taken, even at this early part of the season." — Ibid, August 3. It will be seen that this object has been since ac- complished, as one of the early settlers writes, on the 1 3th August, — " We are going to form a whaling company here. It is an excellent place for it, and will be highly advantageous to the colony. It is a matter of policy to support this undertaking ourselves, otherwise most of the profit will go out of the colony to Sydney, &c. The capital proposed is £5,000, THE NATIVES. 21 which would fit out six boats. A great number of fish fiequent this place; the other day, when one was towing home, I saw several playing about." " On my first arrival here the inhabitants were very few, perhaps sixty or eighty, (in the Plymouth dis- trict they are now more numerous, perhaps three hundred). Many are constantly returning from cap- tivity. The Waikato tribe, whose slaves they were, having embraced Christianity, permit them to return to their native land. Not twenty years since, there were ten thousand fighting men between the Sugar Loaves and the Waitera river ; but the continuous wars have reduced them to their present state. "Though these people have fixed habitations, they are continually on the tramp from place to place, and appear to think no more of walking across the country or along the coast for 150 or 200 miles, than we should in England of going from one village to another. Some of their houses are neatly made, particularly those which are lined with reeds placed in a vertical position. They are, however, for the most part, very rude, being constructed by a certain number of poles placed in the ground, about four or five feet high, and from four to six feet apart. At right angles to these poles, and distant from ten to fourteen inches, they tie a certain number of long sticks, to which they again place, in a vertical position, flags or rushes. The roof is constructed in a similar way, and is always covered with an outside layer of coarse grass : generally speaking, these roofs are impervious to rain. In their cabins there is neither door nor window, but a square hole is left, for the threefold purpose — access and egress of themselves, smoke, and light. During the winter months, and in the evening, they make a fire on the earth, in the centre of their 22 THE NATIVES. building, around which they squat, lounge, and sleep. Their usual occupation in-doors is making articles of clothing, of which they make a great variety, chiefly from the flax, prepared in various ways ; this work is principally performed by the women. Their food is mostly vegetables; occasionally a little fish, and seldom pork or birds. These are always cooked out of doors in an oven made in the earth. A hole is made, from two to four feet in diameter, and about fifteen inches deep, which is carefully paved with smooth stones, spurious granite got on the shore : a fire of wood is made on these stones till they are nearly red-hot, when all the ashes are carefully removed ; and a quart or two of water being sprinkled on the hot stones, a great steam is created, when they in- stantly place whatever they have to cook upon them, and quickly cover all up with small mats and different gum plants ; these are again covered with earth, and effectually prevents the escape of steam. Things cooked in this way are excellent. " Their idea of cultivation is curious ; they seldom plant twice in the same ground, saying it is no good. About two months before they intend sowing, they leave their homes in small parties for a day or two, walk a little inland, and select a lonely spot in the wood or bush, but never in the fern land. Soon after this, the weather proving favourable, they com- mence cutting down all the timber or bush which is on the spot chosen, except the karaka, which is care- fully preserved, on account of its producing food; the fruit of this beautiful evergreen is in appearance like a date. The trees are all cut down about four feet from the ground, and the stumps are never disturbed. About a week or two after this, if dry weather, it is burned and carelessly cleared away, and with a THE NATIVES. 23 pointed stick they make the earth a little loose, and put in their seed. Potatoes will do well in New Zealand, if planted from the beginning of September till March. Water-melons, pumpkins, and various other vegetables, are planted by the natives early in November. They have a name for every bird, fish, insect, or plant, that I have here yet seen, and are much pleased if you cannot readily furnish the same. " The majority of the men are athletic, well propor- tioned, and above the ordinary stature, particularly the chiefs or "rangatiias," in whose appearance you gene- rally see a marked superiority. Many of them, though so much tattoed, are remarkably handsome, having fine Roman features, and beautiful teeth. The women are by no means so pleasing in their appearance ; now and then you may chance to see a good-looking one or two, but it is rare ; all, however, have very fine teeth, eyes, and nails. Those who have embraced the Gospel, cease to tattoo either themselves or chil- dren. I expect in a few years it will be quite ex- ploded. It is a long and painful operation. The natives tell me it takes six or eight years to complete a face that is full tattooed ; and at every operation, which is once or twice a year, the swelling is enor- mous, and, now and then, they die from the effects. This work is performed by the men. " Their wood-carvings are now very rare ; occasion- ally you may see an elderly man so occupied, but never the young people. I expect, in the course of a few years, this art will be lost among them. Writing in the hurried way in which I now am, I will not add more upon the customs and manners of the people. I send the above from observations, as I do not recol- 24 THE NATIVES. lect having seen them mentioned." — Mr. Carringtons Letter, Feh. 8, 1841. " In England, we were favourably impressed with the natives ; but we find them a much better race of people than we had imagined. As far as our expe- rience goes, and what we have ascertained of them, an extraordinary change (chiefly effected by the Mis- sionaries) has taken place among them within the last few years. Formerly savages, warring against each other, frequently annihilating whole tribes, and many among them cannibals; they have exchanged those dreaded characters, and become religious and peace- able men. They are nearly all missionaries, and carry with them their bible (translated in the native tongue), which they carefully protect from injury, and are con- stantly praying. On Sundays they wholly abstain from work, and we have watched them proceed to the native chapel in the most orderly manner, and fall down in reverence before the door, with their faces covered, and almost crawl in, as if they felt their utter worthlessness. What a lesson to many Euro- peans ! The natives are a very fine race of people. Their dress generally consists of a mat made of flax, or a blanket; some of them have adopted different articles of European costume. The natives being now busily employed in planting their potatoes, few of them are here, and not any temptation will induce them to neglect this staple article of food. Some of the women are very good-looking, and most of the men handsome and athletic. They have all, without exception (and it is extraordinary), jet black hair. Most of them are tattooed ; but this absurd and pain- ful custom is fast falling into disuse. The men and women of caste dye their lips blue ; and, during the period of our residence here, we have never seen a THE NATIVES. 25 single instance of a man or woman showing the least signs of impropriety. The men appear attached to their wives — they to their husbands — and the single women generally conceal their faces in their mats, on the approach of a stranger. Their pigs are docile, and follow their owners like dogs. We have got nine pigs, which we have branded, and turned adrift in the bush, where they fatten, and increase on fern root. We procured from the natives, a short time since, a very finely woven mat, which we shall send you at a future period." — Messrs. Halses Letter, Nov. 13, 1841 . m: /Jg^ ,.-^.^Mfd^ Fern Tree of New Zealand. 26 GENERAL REVIEW OF THE PROCEEDINGS IN THE COLONY, UP TO THE ARRIVAL OF THE ORIENTAL, IN NOVEMBER, 1841. {Whe7'e not otherwise stated, the Extracts are from the Journal of Mr. Cutjield, the Emigration Agent.) The Settlement having been thus finally chosen, "All hands, also four natives, commenced on the morn- ing of the 9th of March, to build a house upon the bank of the Evvatoki." Agreement with the Natives. On the 10th, Mr. Carrington writes, I took an interpreter with me the first thing this morning, and clearly explained to the natives who were upon the spot where I wished to build the house, and about the land being sold to the white people, which they all admitted. I then drew squares upon the ground, and made them comprehend the value of their reserves, with which they were very much pleased, and immediately went to work for me, cutting and clearing the wood. I agreed to pay them with to- bacco. PROCEEDINGS IN THE COLONY. 27 Arrival of the William Bryan with the Pioneer Settlers. March 30. — The men employed in removing their luggage from this place to the town. At ten o'clock a.m., I was told a vessel was in sight (the Willimn Bryan^, — went to the commanding rocks, and tried to make out her flag — could not — too far off — saluted her with a couple of guns as she opened the anchorage ; she was distant at this time about four miles. I immediately took Mr. Barrett's whale-boat and crew, went off to her, and at six o'clock P.M., she was safely anchored about three- quarters of a mile north-east of Centre Sugar Loaf. Fine clear day, with fresh breeze from south-east. Landing of Passengers and Stores. On the 1st of April the passengers and stores were landed from the William Bryan, and, next day, a meeting of the agent and the emigrants was held to determine the rate of wages, which were finally fixed at bs. per day for labourers, and 7s. for me- chanics. Allotments of Land to the Labourers. On the 21st Mr. Cutfield moved one of the tents from Nga Motu, to a piece of ground near the town, which he named Holsworthy Hill ;*' and in order to encourage the workmen in the Company's service, on this hill I have allotted each man in the ex- pedition a small spot for building a house, with per- mission to hold it for two years, at a rental of Gc?. a year. At the expiration of two years, the land to be given up, or a superior rent demanded by the Com- pany's agent. * Vide Frontispiece. b2 28 GENERAL REVIEW OF Trade with the Waicato Tribe. May 7. — A Waicato chief, and some of his people, who have been here for some time, building two houses on speculation, offered them to me for a cer- tain quantity of goods, or in New Zealand phraseo- logy, 'trade.' At the appointed time, between twenty and thirty natives, men and women, assembled round the storehouse door, where, having seated themselves, they remained with great composure till the different articles were brought out and shewn them. The * trade' offered for one house consisted of two pair of blankets, a double-barrelled gun, six shirts, three red caps, two pair of trousers, and a camblet cloak. After thoroughly examining the ' hentro' (price), and holding a consultation with the women, they com- plained of there being nothing for the females ; they, however, modestly requested in addition, four pair of blankets, some iron pots, and some pieces of print. This was quite out of the question, and on its being intimated to them, five or six rose and carried the different articles into the storehouse, and the business was at an end. As the chief Terobia was to leave the next morning, and being a man of considerable influence with his tribe, 1 thought it advisable to stand well with him, considering the reports which are in circu- lation relative to the tribe coming down 'for no good.' I therefore consulted with Mr. Barrett, on the pro- priety of making him a present. This he advised me to do, observing that it would be returned in some way or other on a future day. I accordingly made him a present of the cloak, requesting Mr. Barrett to say, that, notwithstanding we could not make a bar- gain, we were not to be the worse friends. PROCEEDINGS IN THE COLONY. 29 Terobia is a fine man, very quiet in his demea- nour, but has been a great warrior. First Whale for the Season. May \%th. — The weather getting very cold in the evening. The thermometer standing generally at 8 P.M. about 40°. Mid-day warm and pleasant. The first whale for the season made its appearance be- tween the Sugar Loaf Islands. Preparation of the Ground for the Wheat. May 22. — Commenced turning up the ground for the wheat. The soil is rich in the extreme. Our old agricultural labourers say there is no gentleman's garden in England anything to surpass it. It is not, however, merely this spot : every part which I have yet seen, for some miles round, is the same; there is no choice of soil, only locality. The best tool for clearing the fern-root is what our labourers call 'bittocks,' or 'mattocks,' similar to those sent out under the name of *potatoe-axes.' Weather on 30^A of May, {corresponding to ^Qth Nov. in England.) May 30. — A most delightful day, and warm enough to induce us to sit out of doors after an early dinner, enjoying the beautiful scenery around. Progress of Vegetable Growth in Two Winter Months. June 23. — It will be remembered, that on the 21st of April, I sowed, for experiment sake, various seeds in the cleared piece of ground in front of the Store-house. I will now state what success I have met with. The radishes are very good, and fit to 30 GENERAL REVIEW OF draw. Of fine plants which have met with a favoured spot, one is as large in circumference as a shilling,, the others something less ; but the generality of the plants are as large as any one could wish, for the table. The turnips are progressing very well, and some will be fit to draw in about three weeks from the present time. The onions are small, but I think will stand the winter, and come in early in the spring. The mustard and cress came tolerably well, and would have succeeded much better with a little tem- porary shelter from the cold winds. The lettuce plants will stand the winter, and come in early like the rest, in the spring. The ground on which the Store-house stands not having been chosen for the sake of the land, but for situation, was perhaps one of the worst for the experiment, being of too sandy a nature, and open to the N.W. winds. A "Strike^' amongst the Workmen. July 19. — This morning, at the hour of going to work, the labourers assembled in a body at the Store, and demanded an increase of wages, on the plea that provisions had risen in price, particularly flour. Flour has hitherto been sold at 3ic?., fresh pork at l\d., and sugar at 46?. Flour is now selling at 4